TEXT: 136
  Dice – those oddly shaped little lumps of hard impact plas-
  tic found scattered about the gaming table. Who can resist
  them? 
  Also known as polyhedrons, these trusty gems do one thing
  — generate random numbers on demand. Even with the odds
  behind him and the modifiers stacked, the roller can never be
  sure of the outcome. That’s what puts uncertainty into the
  game and creates the suspense players thrive on.
  The tools of the trade for player and GameMaster alike, dice
  are to the gamer what the assault rifle is to the combat soldier.
  Often they’re only things standing between you and character
  death.  And like a soldier’s weapon, they demand your respect
  as well as your utmost attention. 
  This chapter is devoted solely to the topic of dice – yes, they
  are THAT important. It would behoove you to read this sec-
  tion thoroughly and refer to it often.   And really, why would-
  n’t you? When you become intimately familiar with your dice
  and learn to use and care for them properly, they will serve you
  well.
  Die Nomenclature
  Die Nomenclature
  Before any further discussion on dice can take place, let us
  define the proper nomenclature for the various forms they
  take. 
  HackMaster utilizes several different dice. The 4, 6, 8, 10, 12
  and last, but not least, the 20 sider. 
  In the rules each die type is symbolized by “d”, and its num-
  ber of sides is shown immediately thereafter.  A six-sided die is
  therefore ‘d6’, ‘d8’ is an eight-sided die and so on.  
  Two four-sided dice are expressed as 2d4, five eight-sided
  dice are 5d8, etc.  Any additions to or subtractions from the die
  or dice are expressed after the identification, thus: d8+8 means
  a linear number grouping between 9 and 16, while 3d6-2
  means a bell-shaped progression from 1 to 16, with the great-
  est probability group in the middle (8, 9).  This latter progres-
  sion has the same median numbers as 2d6, but it has higher
  and lower ends and a greater probability of a median number
  than if 2d12 were used.  
  On a d10, a zero result (0) is read as a result of 10.  The d20
  is the most versatile die in your dice arsenal.  It can be used as
  d10 and d20.  Two d20s can also be used to simulate a d100.
  More typically, however, rolling two ten-siders of different col-
  ors generates percentages (numbers ranging from 1 to 100).
  Before rolling, the player announces which color is high (tens)
  and which color is low (single digits).  When percentage dice
  are to be used, it is indicated by d100 or d%.
  Sometimes you will need to use various dice to simulate dice
  of another type.  For example a d6 can be used to simulate a d3
  (generating a random number from 1 to 3).  In this case the
  result of rolling a d6 would be read as follows; 1-2 = 1, 3-4 = 2,
  5-6 = 3.  Likewise, a d10 could be used to simulate a d5 (1-2 =
  1, 3-4 = 2, 5-6 = 3, 7-8 = 4, 9-0 = 5) and a d4 could be used as
  a d2 (1-2=1, 3-4=2).
  A d1000 is a die roll used to generate a random number
  between 1 and 1000. The most common method is to roll three
  differently colored ten-sided dice, where each color has been
  designated to represent one of the three digits, i.e. hundreds,
  tens and ones. So rolling a 3, a 4 and a 0 would mean 340. A
  result of 000 indicates 1000.
  A d10,000 is a die roll used to generate a random number
  between 1 and 10,000. This method requires rolling 4 differ-
  ently colored ten-sided dice. So rolling a 5, a 3, a 4 and a 0
  would mean 5,340. A result of 0000 represents 10,000.
  Note: Some specialty dice companies actually produce d1000
  and d10,000 sets with each 10-sided die appropriately marked
  as to avoid any confusion. 
  
  137
  A penetration roll (rolling the maximum number on the die,
  allowing you to roll the same die again with a modifier of -1)
  is symbolized by “p” after the die type.  If the rules call for a d6
  and you roll a 6, that’s it - you got a 6.  However, if the rules
  call for a d6p and you roll a 6, you get to roll that die again and
  add the result minus one.  If you continue to roll sixes, you add
  5 (6-1=5) each time until you stop rolling sixes.
  Dice Etiquette
  Dice Etiquette
  There are a few very important rules of protocol concerning
  dice.  The sooner you learn them - and put them to use - the
  better.  Your GM and fellow players will expect you to know
  and practice proper dice etiquette. Those who don’t (or who
  take such things lightly) are often mercilessly shunned by other
  gamers and end up wondering why they’re suddenly not invit-
  ed back to the table. Don’t be that guy. 
  Hands to Yourself
  Do yourself a favor: take a highlighter and mark this section.
  Most experienced gamers are somewhat possessive (even
  superstitious) when it comes to their dice.  Perhaps one of the
  greatest offenses a player can make at the table is touching
  another player’s dice.  
  As a general rule, one player should never, ever touch anoth-
  er player’s dice.  Ever! It just isn’t done - at least not without
  the shedding of blood.  The surest way of ostracizing yourself
  from the fellowship of other gamers is to be a dice-squirrel and
  put your paws on dice that don’t belong to you.
  You don’t put your hands on another man’s wife… and you
  sure as hell don’t touch his dice.
  A Moment of Silence, Please!
  When a player is in the actual act of rolling his dice, shut the
  hell up.  Even a sworn nemesis deserves a chance for an honest
  unimpeded die roll.  Before a player rolls, feel free to cheer him
  on, hex him or whatever, but when his arm begins that forward
  motion and the die is about to meet the battlemat, you’d better
  pipe down.  Muttering phrases like “jinx! jinx!”, “You’re gonna
  miss!” or even supposedly ‘helpful’ cheering like shouting
  “Boom baby, BOOM” or “Go Dave!!” as the dice start their
  tumble is extremely bad form.
  So remember – as the roller’s fingers glide open and the die
  springs free, the table should hush and watch and listen.  
  There’s nothing like the drama and expectation of an impor-
  tant roll rat-a-tat-tatting across the table and tumbling to a
  stop. Trust me. You don’t want all eyes turned on you as a play-
  er accuses you (and rightfully so) of ruining his concentration.  
  Speaking when someone is rolling, even to root for him, is
  the poorest of etiquette. They may tolerate such nonsense in
  Iowa but don’t let it happen at your table.
  High Color Convention
  Some old school gamers still like to use the antiquated twen-
  ty-siders which were made in the 1970s and ‘80s.  Often called
  “Mud Dice” (due to the edges of the soft plastic rounding off
  with use) such dice were manufactured with no distinction
  made between results of 1-10 versus results of 11-20.  They
  were simply numbered 1 to 10 twice.  It is perfectly acceptable
  to use such out-dated dice, but you must colorize half of the
  numbers on a die of this type, usually with a colored wax cray-
  on or a mascara pen.  
  When a player uses a die of this type, it is essential that the
  DICE RECOGNITION CHART
  The players first line of offense/defense – his dice arsenal.
  four sider (d4), six sider (d6), eight sider (d8), ten sider (d10), twelve sider (d12), twenty sider (d20)
  Top View
  3/4 View
  Side View
  
  138
  color of the higher numbers be declared publicly and agreed
  upon for that session (and recorded in a verifiable place, such
  as on a character record sheet).  Under no circumstances are
  players to be allowed to “call” the color of the higher numbers
  after a roll has been made.  
  It is considered poor etiquette to switch the convention of
  high color once a gaming session has begun, though breaching
  this etiquette is acceptable in extreme extenuating circum-
  stances - such as when your character is getting decimated and
  you’re rolling consistently bad all session.  
  If color convention is in question after such dice have been
  rolled, the GM should evoke the ROY G. BIV rule with the
  color for the lower numbers being the first color to appear on
  the color spectrum. Always assume black is the lowest color in
  such cases.
  A final way to use these dice (or a 10-sider) in order to gen-
  erate rolls of 01-20 is to roll a d6 along with the d10.  On a
  result of 4-6, you add 10 to the d10 result.  This method elim-
  inates the color issue, and is an alternative for those who have
  lost their d20 or were too dim to use two different colored
  crayons on their d20.
  Open and Closed Rolling
  All rolls required of players during a HackMaster game ses-
  sion must be made publicly, such that all other attending play-
  ers and the GM may view the roll.  Under no circumstances
  shall a player be allowed to hide his dice rolls. 
  Note that an ‘open roll’ means the die must be under full
  observation by those looking on from the moment the die
  leaves the roller’s hand to the moment it comes to a full rest.
  Rolling the dice in a cup and turning it over, cupping the dice
  under one’s palms after it’s been rolled to hide the result and so
  on, invalidate the roll.  
  The GM, on the other hand, may use “closed” die rolling at
  his discretion.  In fact, it is the normal procedure for a GM to
  secretly make die rolls from behind the safety of his GM
  shield.  The GM is also allowed to intrude upon any other die
  rolling zone on the table at will (this is the only exception to
  the normal protocol) with no penalty.  This is often done dur-
  ing those dramatic moments when letting the players see the
  fearsome result of a 20 coming up on a to-hit roll is just too
  much to pass up.
  Under no circumstances should the GM be compelled,
  cajoled or pressured into rolling in the open even when his dice
  are so hot the players question whether he’s cheating. It’s solely his
  call.
  Let the Dice Fall Where They May
  Dice rolls are sacred.  In my campaigns, I let the dice fall
  where they may – period.  I don’t cotton to fudging die rolls
  and other such nonsense, and I despise those who practice such
  foolishness or allow it to take place at their table.  Once a GM
  begins fudging the dice the game is diminished and he has tar-
  nished his shield.  The only exceptions are dice that roll off the
  table, come to rest in a cocked position or fail to hold up under
  the guidelines of this chapter as a ‘legitimate’ roll.
  Dice Rolling Zones (DRZ)
  This is a big one. A player must have adequate room to roll
  his dice properly.  Dice need room to move, bounce and ‘play’
  in order to yield the desired results. If such room is not avail-
  able it is a player’s right, nay his responsibility, to inform his
  GameMaster so the situation can be remedied immediately.
  In-house studies have clearly shown that ‘stifled’ dice rolled in
  a confined space and deprived of a proper movement/play area
  perform subpar. 
  The minimum area for a dice rolling zone is 171⁄2 inches wide
  and 111⁄2 inches deep (note: these dimensions have been slight-
  ly decreased since the last edition, taking into account new die
  manufacturing techniques and polymers that give dice more
  ‘bounce’).  Note also that all “public table areas” are officially
  free rolling zones (FRZs).  These are the battle/miniatures area
  and free spaces between zones.  Using an FRZ is the only way
  to create the Distance-Dramatic Roll (such a roll being made
  famous by little Isaac Goldstein while slaying the Swack Iron
  Dragon with a desperate crit in the closing seconds of the
  HackMaster World Championship at GaryCon ’82).
  However, you should take care not to disturb any miniatures
  when rolling in the battle area.  Again if you find your assigned
  DRZ at the gaming table insufficient you should bring it to the
  attention of your GM.  
  When establishing your DRZ there are several things to
  look for:
  • Enough space must be provided so when the dice are
  rolled, none of them touch each other.  
  • The DRZ should be free of obstacles so that the dice get
  plenty of tumble-action, and roll freely without interference or
  A proper Dice Rolling Zone with adequate rolling space. 
  Notice how this player has cleverly laid claim to his zone
  by marking the boundaries with pencils and a soda can.
  
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  inhibition. Don’t let another player’s elbow, a poorly placed can
  of soda or a pencil rob you. Players should actively
  police/maintain their DRZ’s during a game.
  • Clear DRZ boundaries are necessary to avoid disputes
  between players. It’s always a good idea to ‘announce’ the
  demarcation of your zone to other players before the game as a
  reminder.  This is critical for those who believe in the possible
  transference of (bad) luck between dice in close proximity to
  one another.  
  • Remember it is always bad form to invade another’s dice
  zone with a poor roll of your own. It is akin to the infraction
  of touching another’s dice (as described hereafter).  Because
  some players don’t respect the DRZs of other players, it is
  within the GM’s power to apply a penalty to any die/dice that
  violate another player’s zone. 
  Note however that during those rare moments where Player
  vs. Player actions crop up, invading your opponent’s DRZ is a
  valid strategy to throw him off his game. Just remember that
  turn about is fair game.
  Designated Dice Rolling Zones (DDRZ)
  Now for a bit of backtracking from the previous edition. For
  years there has been speculation that ‘training’ a DRZ will
  result in higher numbers and better roll control. I’ve hotly con-
  tested this assertion since no substantial proof had ever been
  offered up (other than Norman Bowzer’s popular articles in
  HackJournal which were flawed by personal bias and fudged
  numbers, in my opinion).  
  Recently, however, our own in-house tests have demonstrat-
  ed that there may be something to it.  Therefore, I’m now offi-
  cially backing the HMA’s move that DDRZs (Designated
  Dice Rolling Zones) be officially addressed. 
  I believe the effectiveness of DDRZs has more to do with
  the roller’s confidence level and attitude than the trained zone
  itself, but at the end of the day we live or die by the results of
  our dice so it’s worth mentioning here.  
  The first step in establishing a DDRZ is to stake your claim.
  Pick a spot or seat at the table you roll dice at and make it
  known it is YOUR territory. If this is not possible (for exam-
  ple your game rotates locations or other players simply refuse
  to recognize your claim), then try placing your character sheet
  (or a fame rub card) in your DRZ where the dice first strike the
  table. This will often (but not always) compensate. Having a
  DDRZ however is ALWAYS preferable.
  The Nature of Dice
  The Nature of Dice
  In order to properly use your dice and to get the desired per-
  formance from them, you must first understand them. For
  many gamers dice are mystical things akin to the Fates of
  mythology. You might as well know one sad fact up front – like
  the Fates, dice can be fickle.
  They are friends to neither GameMaster nor player.  The
  player who appears to be on a lucky streak one week, rolling
  one critical hit after another, is often the same guy rolling an
  endless stream of fumbles the next session.
  There are misguided individuals out there who would have
  you believe the outcome of any given roll is governed by the
  cold, blind tenets of probability.  “There is no such thing as
  luck!” they assure you as they go on and on about bell curves,
  the law of mathematical averages, and other such nonsense in
  an attempt to hammer their point of view into your skull.
  To be honest, they are partly correct; dice are designed to do
  one thing – generate truly random numbers that dictate the
  outcome of various actions during the course of the game in a
  fair and impartial manner.  The random numbers they gener-
  ate are ultimately what keeps the GM’s power over his players
  in check.  He may design the adventure and chart the course of
  the action, but at the end of the day it’s the dice that decide the
  outcome.  
  That does not mean, however, that dice can’t be coaxed or
  encouraged to do the roller’s bidding on occasion.  Most
  gamers inherently know this as if by instinct. They talk to their
  dice. Praise them (when the roll well). Curse them (when they
  fail). They blow on them. Rub them on others for good luck.
  They even name their dice.
  To say there is no ‘luck’ involved when it comes to dice is just
  plain silly.  Ask anyone who has bellied up to the game table and
  they will swear that this die or that favors (or disfavors) them.
  If you press the subject, most gamers will produce one or more
  of their lucky dice.  (I myself had a blue benzene polyfibre d20
  model 5 called ‘Nat Faithful’ which served me well for twenty-
  nine years. It eventually failed me during a hobgoblin uprising
  at Frandor’s Keep and was disposed of with full honors.)
  We’ve all witnessed the player on a ‘hot streak’ who inexpli-
  cably pulls nat’ twenties out of his butt like some Easter Bunny
  doling out eggs to a schoolyard full of preschoolers.  There’s lit-
  tle doubt that luck exists, and to say it doesn’t simply reeks of
  denial.  The notion of luck (and bad luck) is very real to most
  players, and they take it seriously.  You’d be advised to do the
  same.
  Having said that, let me warn you not to fall into the trap of
  attempting to live by the good graces of Lady Luck.  Those
  who use luck as a crutch soon find themselves falling flat on
  their faces.  Lady Luck has a wandering eye and she dances
  with many partners.  One moment she may be at your side, and
  the next moment she’s nowhere to be found (kind of like an ex-
  girlfriend I once had).  When it comes to hacking it’s best to
  rely on your own wits and mettle. 
  Still, there are a few things you can do to encourage luck (or
  to stave off bad luck):
  • Never EVER use a new unproven set of dice in a game
  without first breaking them in and/or determining their quali-
  ty (see Dice Priming hereafter).
  
  140
  • Never let another player use and/or touch your dice. It’s just
  a bad idea. I keep an extra set of cheap dice (throw away dice)
  handy just in case some moron shows up sans dice and asks if
  he can ‘use’ my dice. You should do the same. Just slip them
  your throw-away dice and when they offer to return them at
  the end of the game (yeah, like that’ll happen) just tell the
  ingrate to keep them.
  • Likewise never borrow another player’s dice. Be prepared.
  Show up for the game with properly tested/battle primed dice.
  Would you show up at a knife fight without a knife?
  • If a die rolls off the table, hits another player’s arm or
  requires any sort of reroll be sure to ‘roll off’ any bad luck it may
  picked up by rolling it as many times as it takes to come up
  with a positive result.
  • When your dice are not in use but sitting out on the table
  at the ready it’s a good idea to turn them so the highest num-
  bered face is showing. This is akin to having them stand at
  attention and geared up for battle.
  • If you feel a die isn’t performing up to snuff don’t be too
  quick to retire it or pull it out of the line-up. Sometimes put-
  ting an errant die back in the dice bag and shaking it will rally
  it. Dice can hold grudges. If you’re too quick to act or judge
  they can turn on you.
  Choosing/Purchasing your Dice
  Choosing/Purchasing your Dice
  Great care and attention should be taken when purchas-
  ing/selecting your dice.  I cannot stress this enough. Would you
  buy a pistol without doing your research? A car without test
  driving it? 
  I recommend going with dice produced by a reliable manu-
  facturer.  Examine each die for imperfections such as mis-
  shapen appearance, flawed edges or mold marks/extra material
  which protrudes.  Ask the shopkeeper if you can test-roll your
  dice selections prior to purchase.  Any die that rolls a “1” should
  be returned to the dice bin on the spot (unless you’re actually
  looking for a low roller). If a die can’t be bothered to put on its
  best face for you at such a critical moment how can it be
  expected to perform for you when you’re facing down a free
  range minotaur?  Doesn’t mean it’s a bad die. Sometimes a
  player and die just don’t take to each other. It happens.  If you
  do run across a die that doesn’t cut the muster, you may want
  to refrain from buying any other dice from that same bin since
  unlucky dice usually come in groups. 
  Pay special attention to the numbers/pips on each face of the
  die. Are they clearly legible? Is the die made of high impact plas-
  tic? Is it used? Don’t be afraid to ask questions. The better game
  shopkeepers understand the importance of dice selection and
  will cheerfully cater to you. You may also want to ask what the
  store’s policy is on returning dice that fail to perform properly.
  Don’t overlook aesthetics. Nobody wants an ugly die
  (although I’ve known many ugly dice that have been superb
  performers). The die should be pleasing to your eye. Color,
  contrast and good lines are all very important.
  Now there are exceptions to this rule. Unusual dice and dice
  with character (due to some perceived flaw for example) just
  might be standouts and worthy of some extra scrutiny before
  dismissal. A friend of mine once had a d10 with an illegible “1”
  face that served in stellar fashion for many years.
  Speaking of legibility – use the six foot rule when selecting
  your dice. You should be able to clearly read a die’s result at six
  feet away. This ensures everyone at the table (GM and other
  players alike) can see your result and avoid disputes. To each his
  own but I would avoid ‘rune’ dice and other fancy schmancy
  dice with illegible characters/patterns which make reading a
  result difficult.
  Finally, you should avoid buying or using flippity-floppity
  dice.  You know the kind.  The ones that have excessively
  rounded edges so that the six-siders roll like a wheel instead of,
  well, a die.  Mud dice gain their unique rolling characteristics
  from years of use and have a certain old-school appeal and usu-
  ally a special emotional value to the user.  Flippity-floppity dice
  are just irritating to everyone.  Only rookies, wannabes and los-
  ers rely on flippity-floppity dice.
  Note: Special care should be taken with virgin dice (new dice
  that have never been used in a game).  Would you go into com-
  bat with a non-zeroed weapon? Of course not. Know your dice.
  Whenever you buy new dice, be sure not to mix them with your
  battle-hardened dice until you’ve properly primed them (see
  hereafter).  Otherwise, any bad luck may be transferred to your
  battle-hardened dice arsenal.
  
  141
  Assembling Your Dice Arsenal
  Assembling Your Dice Arsenal
  (Battle Line Dice)
  (Battle Line Dice)
  When you first begin playing you’ll probably be content just
  to buy the basic dice required to play, and throw them in a dice
  bag without much more thought or consideration.  This is typ-
  ical for the neophyte. 
  As your gaming experience grows, however, you should give
  more serious thought to maintaining and building a proper
  dice arsenal.  This involves weeding out dice that under-per-
  form or that show the slightest signs of becoming under-per-
  formers (or perhaps unlucky).  You’ll also want to begin taking
  note of any dice that demonstrate the early signs of being a
  ‘lucky die’ (a very rare thing indeed).
  For example, over the course of several game sessions you
  may notice that one 20-sider seems to be rolling more than its
  share of high numbers.  It’s entirely possible you have a ‘lucky’
  one in the making.  You may want to consider assigning this
  die a specific task/purpose (such as only making backstab
  rolls).  
  Finally, let’s not forget the ever-important Honor Dice (used
  in Advanced HackMaster).  It is of utmost importance that you
  purchase a separate set of dice for Honor rolls.  Remember that
  it is a dishonorable act to use a die not designated as an Honor
  Die. Dice should be scrutinized heavily (more so than usual)
  when being considered for use as Honor Dice. And once you
  pick your Honor Dice it’s a very bad idea to swap them out
  with other dice (unless a die proves itself to be unlucky).
  Dice Priming
  Dice Priming
  You should never play with virgin (new) dice without prop-
  erly priming them.  The process is simple and, if you diligent-
  ly follow it for every new die you purchase, you’ll save yourself
  a world of headaches and problems.  
  When you purchase a new die it should be segregated from
  your active dice arsenal until it’s properly primed and its status
  is known.  Take the virgin die and roll it 25 times.  Count the
  number of times you roll a maximum result, as well as those of
  a minimum result.  If the number of minimum results is more
  than the number of maximum results, repeat the process.  I use
  the ‘three strikes yer out’ rule.  If the die fails this test three
  times in a row, throw it away.  You could try to purge it of any
  bad luck but it’s just a virgin die – why take chances? You could
  also attempt pawning it off on your GM (or another player you
  have a beef with). But be careful – karma tends to come back
  on you when it involves dice.
  Once a virgin die has passed this test, you need to try it in
  active play.  You should, however, still keep it segregated from
  your main dice arsenal.  Wait until an opportunity comes up in
  the game when a relatively unimportant die roll of some type is
  needed.  Then, and only then, produce the die and roll it.  If the
  result is a critical failure (i.e. fumble), dispose of the die imme-
  diately.  If the die roll is a simple failure, try it again when
  another such opportunity arises.  If the die produces a failed
  result a third time, toss it out.
  If the die rolls a successful result, it shows promise, though
  you should still keep it segregated until it produces three suc-
  cessful in-game results; then, and only then, should you move
  it to your active dice arsenal.
  Care and Maintenance
  Care and Maintenance
  When not using your dice, you should keep them stored in a
  special bag (leather, neoprene, suede or vinyl bags are best).
  Take care that any suspect dice or untested dice are segregated.
  Studies have suggested that dice stored together tend to main-
  tain their luck-levels for longer periods of time than dice stored
  individually or in open containers.  These studies further sug-
  gest that low-rolling dice tend to benefit from being stored
  with more robust dice and that their luck-levels may actually be
  pulled up.  However, it’s also the case that a single unlucky die
  can bring down the luck-level of every die in the bag it’s stored
  in.  It is my recommendation that you take no chances.  If the
  status of a die is in question – segregate it.
  Lucky Dice
  Lucky Dice
  If a die in your arsenal has shown itself to be truly ‘lucky’
  then you indeed have a rare gem.  Such dice require special care
  in order to safeguard their unique properties.
  First off, you should always name a lucky die.  There is power
  in a name, as many cultures know, and this name should not be
  given lightly.  You should never bestow a dishonorable name on
  it, as it may rebel.  The name should reflect your hopes or the
  positive characteristics of the die.  You may also want to name
  your die according to a specific task you assign to it. 
  One cautionary note: never name a die after a girl/boy friend
  or an old flame. Nothing good will come of it. A proper die
  name should inspire. Devin the Slayer. The Sisters (a pair of
  lucky percentiles I once owned).  
  Once a die is found to be lucky, you may want to assign it to
  perform some specific task.  For instance, a die that consistent-
  ly rolls high numbers might end up being your attack or dam-
  age die.  An appropriate name will seal this deal.  A ten-sider
  that consistently rolls low may be useful for skill checks.  
  Whatever happens, use lucky dice wisely.  Don’t overuse
  them.  Don’t abuse them.  Don’t use them for trivial rolls unless
  you absolutely have to. And never take them for granted. Treat
  them with respect and they’ll rarely let you down.
  It’s good practice to always talk to a lucky die when taking it
  from the bag, before rolling it and before putting it back in the
  bag. I like to congratulate a lucky die for a job well done when
  a much needed result is yielded. But be careful. Know your
  dice. Some lucky dice don’t like a lot of fuss and fanfare. They
  
  142
  just want to do the job at hand and return to storage so it can
  concentrate on the next required task.
  It’s also a good idea to keep a lucky die segregated from your
  main dice arsenal by keeping it in a smaller pouch, a pill bottle
  or some other small container that you can stow in your dice
  bag with your other dice. This is your way of making the die
  stand out and signifying that it’s special. It also encourages your
  other dice to perform better as they strive to reach such
  esteemed status. A jealous die is a die that never tires of trying
  to step up.
  Attitude
  Although this chapter is about dice, let’s take a few moments
  to talk about you as the roller.  As you have seen, getting good
  results from your dice is as much about attitude and faith as it
  is about that simple bit of plastic in your hand. 
  When rolling the dice always do so as if your character’s life
  depends on the result. The best dice rollers know that a prop-
  er dice toss is only as good as what the roller puts into the roll.
  You and your dice are a team. You should expend a little bit of
  yourself into each roll. Like a good race horse, the die must
  never feel like you’re simply along for the ride and that you
  have nothing vested.
  Sometimes it only requires a little vocal encouragement.
  “C’mon, boy. High number!” Other times it’s the lucky kiss, the
  blow or the triple-shake.
  When Good Dice Go Bad
  When Good Dice Go Bad
  Sometimes, despite all your precautions and after many cam-
  paigns of faithful service, a good die starts rolling badly.  You
  can never be sure just why. It just happens. Perhaps you angered
  it when you started to favor another die. Or maybe it’s just tired
  of the fight. When it happens you will know.  
  Now some players are quick to simply toss the offending die
  in the trash and write it off, lest it infect the rest of the dice
  arsenal. Understandable. But dice that have served long and
  faithfully deserve better, at least a second chance.
  Face it, it’s tough turning your back on a die that has served
  you so well for so long.  In cases like this, you might attempt to
  purge it of the tainted influence of bad luck. 
  Dice Cleansing and Other Rituals
  There are hundreds of dice cleansing rituals out there being
  promoted by every two-bit hack jockey and dice shaman in the
  gaming world.  Some of them work, but most don’t and are
  unproven.  We support only the following proven methods.
  The Fame Rub
  The fame rub is a tactic with incredible merit and some eight
  years of proven field experience to back it up.  A person who
  wants to quickly transfer good luck into his dice can do so by
  rubbing the dice on the person, or some personal effect, of a
  popular game designer.  Remember: always rub left to right for
  higher numbers, and right to left for lower numbers.  
  This practice can also be used to prime new dice, and most
  all  game designers worth their salt at conventions and store
  signings are more than glad (eager even) to oblige fans. In fact,
  if a game designer refuses to let you do a fame rub, something
  is amiss and that designer’s products should be avoided at all
  cost. I’m just saying…  
  As a rule of thumb, you should do a minimum of 12 swipes
  of the die across the signature (but no more than two dozen as
  that can sometimes have the opposite effect of what is desired).
  Note that based on intensive research I have doubled my rec-
  ommendation since the last printing of this chapter.
  You can also gather something a game designer has used,
  such as a napkin, paper cup, soda can, and so on, and rub your
  dice on it.  If you’re lucky, you might even be able to rub your
  dice on the designer himself or even get one kissed or blessed!!!
  You should check the game designer’s credentials before going
  this route, however.  Has he had any hit games?  Has he won
  THE FAME-RUB
  Left to Right = Higher #s
  Right to Left = Lower #s
  
  143
  at least three Origins Awards?  Make sure his stuff is up to
  snuff before rubbing your dice on him.  
  There are even those who suggest that if you rub a die on a
  dead game designer’s tombstone, the bad luck will immediate-
  ly be discharged only to be replaced by good luck.  Such a
  charged-die is said to be the luckiest of all dice (other than
  those made from the bones of a hall of fame game designer).  
  According to Norman Bowzer, who has tried this approach
  on numerous occasions, it simply doesn’t work.  He recom-
  mends leaving the die on the tombstone for two nights under
  a full moon in order to give the bad luck time to dissipate.
  Since this particular method is the subject of dispute we pres-
  ent it here with proper notice that it may or may not useful.
  Warning: At GaryCon a few years ago I witnessed a well-
  intentioned gamer rubbing his dice on Tracy Lords. Do not—
  I repeat DO NOT attempt to get a fame rub from anyone but
  a published game designer. SciFi guests, comic artists, former
  playmate models...don’t waste your time. It’s like licking the
  drip pan under your refrigerator. Sure you’re going to get a lit-
  tle taste of something – but gawd knows what.
  Isolate the Offending Die Immediately
  If you have a die that starts rolling badly, you need to quick-
  ly get it away from all your other dice. I cannot stress this
  enough.  Don’t, under any circumstance, place it back in your
  dice bag with the rest of your dice.  Such an act is sheer folly.
  You need to keep it sequestered from the rest of your dice or
  you’re just begging for trouble.  Until you have been able to
  purge the bad luck from a die and instill it with good luck,
  there’s no use taking any chances.  
  Emergency Purge
  As a player there may be times
  when the status of your main line
  dice suddenly come into ques-
  tion. A sudden streak of failed to-
  hits. A fumble at a most inoppor-
  tune moment. 
  Or what if you’re in the middle
  of a tournament and you feel
  your luck has dropped out of your dice bag?  
  Well, there’s one way to infuse a little luck back into your dice
  bag that may just save your game.  First, empty out your dice
  bag.  Roll each die until it yields a maximum result.  Set it aside.
  Rub each die across a game designer’s signature (or, for a less
  effective option, across the credits page on any rpg product)
  from left to right as stated earlier.  Put all the dice back in the
  bag and shake it 100 times to redistribute the luck.
  Cocky Dice
  Sometimes a die simply rolls badly because it’s gotten a bad
  attitude.  Some lucky dice suddenly become cocky and think
  they can’t roll a bad number.  Then Lady Luck steps in and
  demands alimony. Or perhaps the die is angry you used anoth-
  er lesser die and felt snubbed. Again dice can hold grudges.
  In such instances, it may be in the best interest of that die,
  your other dice and your game if you make an example of this
  particular bad apple.  An attitude adjustment could be just
  what the dice doctor ordered.  There are several methods of
  punishing dice, but the best ones are the simplest.  Simply
  refuse to use the die or even touch it.  Ostracize it.  Ignore it.
  This is usually enough to do the trick and bring the die back
  in line.
  If that doesn’t work you may have to escalate things. Punish
  the die. This can involve throwing the die against a hard object
  (such as a wall or floor). One trick I’ve used with great results
  —actually tossing the die into a trash can and leaving it there
  for several minutes (or hours) before retrieving it. Nothing like
  that Lazarus-out-of-the-grave moment to make a die see the
  error of its ways.
  And if that doesn’t work...? You may have to take more dras-
  tic action to keep the insurrection from spreading.  Simply
  throwing it away may not be enough. It needs to be made an
  example of.  Destroying a rebellious die in full view of its peers
  is good policy. I keep a ball-peen hammer in my workshop for
  such dice. A friend of mine ‘cracks’ his in a vice and spreads the
  shards before his other dice to put the fear of gawd into them.
  Another friend of mine curses and hurls them in a red-faced fit
  of rage into a dark and dingy crawlspace.
  Bottom line, GMs and players alike need to keep a close vigil
  on their dice arsenals.  Bad luck has a nasty ability of spreading
  and spreading quickly. It needs to be nipped in the bud as soon
  as it rears its ugly head because if that happens, chaos could
  soon ensue.
  Players should be aware that if they don’t deal with their bad
  luck issues on their own, their GM will be forced to intervene.
  Retiring a Good Die Gone Bad
  Retiring a Good Die Gone Bad
  If a die stops performing, rolls substandard and fails to rally
  after some maintenance you may have to face facts. The die has
  gone bad and it needs to be retired. 
  Don’t pass it on to a friend (or enemy). It’s like offering a
  carton of spoiled milk to somebody.
  There are three acceptable ways of disposing of a die when
  you retire it.
  1. Utter Destruction: This method is reserved for only the
  worst dice. Those that let you down in a moment of need or
  turned on you causing harm to your character or a trusted ally.
  It deserves to be destroyed. Smash it with a hammer, attack it
  with a blowtorch, microwave it until it becomes a molten lump
  of goo.
  2. Common Burial: If a die is simply mediocre and has a his-
  tory of being neither a stand out nor a ‘bad’ die then it deserves
  
  144
  better than simply being heaved in the trash bin. Place such
  dice in a bag or cup until you’ve accumulated a dozen or so and
  give them a common burial in the yard. It might be a good idea
  to give each die slated for such a ritual one or two last rolls –
  just in case one rallies when confronted with its fate.
  Just be sure you bury dice in groups. Never bury a die alone.
  3. Burial with Honors: This ritual is reserved for only those
  dice that served you long and well before losing their mojo.
  Named dice. Lucky Dice. Or simply dice that had special
  meaning to you. Perhaps it’s a mud die whose edges have worn
  off so smoothly that your GM refuses to let you use it.
  Many gamers have their own take on what constitutes a bur-
  ial with honor. My personal ritual is this – I bury the die with
  13 virgin dice of the same type at a depth of 12 inches and pour
  a libation over it before filling in the hole.
  Dice Rolling Procedure
  Dice Rolling Procedure
  Every gamer has his own approach when it comes to rolling
  the dice.  Some gamers take it in stride, content with tossing
  the dice and accepting the results.  Most gamers, however, take
  the rolling of dice very seriously.  The act of rolling dice is cru-
  cial to such people.  It is the one aspect of the game where you,
  as a player, have some power over how the game is played and
  its outcome.  The more energy and focus you put into the
  process of rolling dice, the better your chances of success.  
  Over the years I’ve seen hundreds of gamers toss the bones.
  It seems every individual has his own technique but here are a
  few tips to getting the most out of each and every die roll.
  First off, NEVER roll the dice cold in a gaming situation.
  Before each gaming session each die you intend on using
  should be rolled five or six times. Take them out of the bag. Let
  them breathe. There’s a lot of energy at the start of a gaming
  session and dice benefit from it. It’s a good way for them to
  release that nervous tension while waiting to be put to use.
  There are three important steps to proper dice rolling.
  1.
  The Prep
  2.
  The Shake
  3.
  The Release
  A good role-player learns to master all three (something that
  can take years but well worth the effort).
  The Prep
  When you call upon a die and bring it into play for an
  important roll (and all rolls are important, by the way) it is
  important to ‘prep’ it.  
  This is your way of letting the die know it’s being sent in to
  do the job and that success is riding on the outcome. Think of
  it as the riding crop coming down on the race horse’s hindquar-
  ter out the starting gate or the gentle nudge of the stirrup to the
  side (depending on the type of roll and result you need).
  Every gamer has his own method
  of doing this. One good way to pre-
  pare a die to do its best is to simply
  kiss it.  Yes, I said kiss it.  Not a wet
  sloppy kiss, just a simple purse of the
  lips and a light peck (preferably on
  the high number). The transfer of
  psychic energy from this process can
  do wonders and often makes a nat’-
  twenty pop up just when you need it.
  Others blow on their dice but the
  rationale for this is unclear.  Some
  rub them between their palms creating friction, which may
  work if the person rolling the dice is a very lucky person; luck
  may transfer from the hands to the die.  Other people talk to
  their dice, encouraging them to roll high.  I’ve seen people who
  have had such a close relationship with their dice that they
  have been able to tell the dice what numbers they need and get
  them!
  The Shake
  The Shake is where
  the magic happens.
  Think of it as the flirta-
  tious dance with Lady
  Luck. Some say this
  where the outcome of
  the roll is really deter-
  mined. 
  It’s important not to
  mess this step up. If the
  dance is too short you
  may spurn her. Too
  long? She becomes bored and you’ve lost her. It’s a fine line and
  knowing the difference and when to release is what separates
  the men from the boys.
  Some misinformed individuals feel that rattling the dice for
  a prolonged period of time prepares them for the rigors of bat-
  tle. They shake and shake and shake like a monkey angrily
  jostling a bottle of Yoo Hoo with no clue as to how to open it.
  More enlightened gamers know that the longer you shake a
  die, the more random the result.  If you want to control the dice
  results, I have a little saying that helps.  “Hold ‘em tight, the roll
  ain’t right.  Let ‘em fly, the roll will be high.” 
  When you shake the dice, shake them like your life depends
  on it. Upper arm at a 45 degree angle to the torso with the fore-
  arm and elbow doing all the work.
  Some gamers like to keep the forearm still and do all the
  shaking with a rolling motion of the wrist.
  I even know a champion role-player from Ohio who shakes
  his dice with the closed fist behind his back before winding up
  for the release – whatever works for you.
  Blowing 
  on the Dice
  The Standard Shake
  
  145
  The Release
  Finally, 
  the 
  all-
  important release, that
  moment when the die
  leaves the hand and
  tumbles across the
  table. This is your last
  chance to sway the
  fates. It’s also a chance to put your own flare on your technique.
  Some gamers like to snap their wrists at the last crucial
  instant giving the die some added momentum or a spin.
  Others like to gently let the die roll off the palm.
  Dice Rolling Methods
  Dice Rolling Methods are as varied and diverse as gamers
  themselves. It really comes down to personal style and prefer-
  ence. The following are some of the more effective methods.
  The Standard Roll: Nothing fancy about this one. Just a
  simple prep, shake and release. The type of roll most people
  picked up playing board games as kids. Doesn’t take much
  technique but it gets the job done. 
  The Back Roll/Spin: This seems to be the preferred method
  for most seasoned role-players and the mark of someone who
  knows his way around the table. There are a variety of embell-
  ishments to this particular method but it generally consists of
  putting “back-roll” spin on the die when releasing.  This is a
  really good technique when the dice have been lukewarm and
  you’re in a pinch. 
  Some gamers prefer to save this technique for those really
  important rolls that make a difference. Don’t attempt this roll
  in-game, however, unless you’ve mastered it. Nothing is quite
  as embarrassing as ricocheting a twenty-sider off an ally’s fore-
  head because of a badly executed backward spin.
  The Open Palm Roll: Although I’ve taken a lot of grief for
  it over the years, I have great fondness for the open palm roll.
  Simply holding the die in a closed fist and then opening my
  fingers and allowing the die to roll off my palm and onto the
  gaming table—like a debutant making her entrance onto the
  ballroom floor. It’s not for everybody. It’s a confidence roll —
  usually reserved for the GM or that rare player who feels he’s
  in control of his fate and wants to show it.
  I have a modified
  version of the Open Palm Roll I like to call the “Ta Da! Roll”.
  This is an open palm roll but as soon as the die rolls off the fin-
  ger tips the hand is snapped and fingers curled as the palm is
  presented again as if to say “Ta da!” as the die result is revealed.
  It’s especially pleasing when you’re putting some smack down
  on some surly player who has been giving you lip.
  The Top Spin: Another confidence roll, to be used only
  when your dice are already performing well and you’re feeling
  cocky.  Give some topspin as you push the dice forcefully from
  your palm in a violent manner.  I usually preface this type of
  roll with an insolent statement directed at my foe, such as:
  “Okay, you scumbag!  Wanna dance?!”  
  The cockier and more defiant the verbal attack, the better.
  Then rub it in real good when you roll the damage.  A word of
  warning though - confidence rolls can raise your luck to an
  uncanny level, but they draw grudge monsters like you would-
  n’t believe.
  The Two Fisted Monkey Roll: This method is usually
  reserved for those do or die moments. You’re outnumbered five
  to one. You should’ve run. The result literally means life or
  death. It’s an attempt to put every last bit of umphhh into the
  roll as you release them. 
  With this method the dice are cupped in two hands tightly
  clenched together—leaving a large enough cavity within for
  The Backspin Roll
  The backspin is best left to veteran
  role-players. It takes years to master
  and doing it improperly could result in
  a disastrous die-roll or even invading
  the DRZ of another player.
  Still, it doesn’t hurt to practice and
  some players do have a natural talent
  for picking it up.
  1. After shaking the die vigorously in a
  clenched fist, the palm is inverted face
  down. The die/dice are cradled in the curl
  of the fingers and the wrist is snapped for-
  ward.
  2. Just as the ‘snap’ reaches a point where
  the hand is fully extended, the fingers are
  straightened and waved/twirled away from
  the thumb to give the die a slight spin.
  3. At the point of release the wrist is twist-
  ed in an outward motion to give additional
  spin to the die/dice.
  4. The die is released with a combination
  sliding/tumbling action.
  The all important Release
  The Standard Roll
  1. After shaking the die vigorously in a
  clenched fist, the palm is opened and thrust
  toward the designated dice rolling zone.
  2. The momentum of the open hand causes
  the die to roll forward off the extended fin-
  gers.
  3. A slight twist to the wrist as the die is
  released gives the dice a bit more tumble-
  action.
  4. The die is released and the results are read
  when the die comes to a complete stop.
  The Open Palm Roll
  Some gamers despised ‘palm rollers’ so use
  this technique only if you’re comfortable
  with who you are and who you’re gaming
  with. Although it looks simple the truth is
  it takes practice to perfect. 
  1. The die is placed in the up turned palm and
  shaken back and forth. A skilled palm roller will
  make it look like the die is teetering on the
  edges of the palm and about to roll off -- only to
  recover.  
  2. At the moment of release the fingers are
  aligned to form a trough for the die to make it’s
  exit and gently roll forth in the DMZ.
  2. Just as the die is about to roll off the ginter
  tips the fingers are flipped upward giving the die
  a bit of bounce and some forward momentum.
  
  146
  the dice to be able to audibly rattle. At the moment of release,
  the arms are brought down toward the DRZ and the
  hands/palms veer to the right and left as the dice are propelled
  forward. 
  Works best when a grunt, “Hoo Aaah!” or a “C’mon!!” accom-
  panies the release.
  Good Rolls vs. Bad
  Among gamers, there is some dispute as to what constitutes
  an official roll.  Most groups have house rules that all players
  have agreed to comply with.  Some groups consider a roll to be
  void if it leaves the table or playing surface.  Other groups con-
  sider all rolls valid, including those that land on the floor, in the
  pizza, in a cup of soda, etc.  I’ve even heard of a group of play-
  ers that have a special ‘cat clause’ to their house die-rolling
  rules.  If the family cat intercepts the dice during a roll, the cat
  is allowed to play with the dice until he’s bored and breaks off
  his attack.  The results of the abandoned dice are considered
  official!
  As for a die that lands in such a way that it is leaning
  [cocked] with only part of its surface on the table, the general
  rule is this: if you can insert two pennies underneath the
  cocked edge of the die, the roll is invalid and the die must be
  re-rolled.
  Whatever the house rules, the GM has the final say on
  whether a die roll is acceptable or not. The important thing is
  that every die roll include the prep, the shake and the release
  yielding a clear result.
  Dice Rolling Don’ts
  We’ve looked at proper dice rolling. Now lets take a look at
  some things that are just not permissible.
  The Two Finger Drop: This technique apparently started in
  Europe where folks are a bit freer with the way they roll their
  dice. It doesn’t fly at my table and it certainly isn’t permissible
  in HackMaster. This method involves the roller holding the die
  above the table approximately 12 to 24 inches and simply let-
  ting the die drop and reading the result. This is a no-go. Dice
  must be given a good shake before being released.
  The Toss and Cover: This method involves rolling the dice
  in the normal manner but then quickly placing your hand over
  the die to hide the result with the roller peeking at the result
  before revealing it to the GM and other players. What non-
  sense! Not permissible. Of course some players take the oppor-
  tunity to tip the die to another result (if they don’t like the one
  they see) when pulling away their hand for the reveal. Such
  sleight of hand trickery has no place at the table.
  The Shake and Slide: This annoying method is seldom seen
  but it does pop up now and then. It is the calling card of a nube
  or rank amateur. This method looks legit throughout its execu-
  tion but at the moment of release the player lets the die fall ‘just
  so’ as to deny it a proper tumble. Instead the die slides across
  the table never changing its face and making the ‘roll’ look sus-
  pect. Every die deserves a proper tumble. 
  The Spin: This method involves grabbing the die between
  forefinger and thumb, barely raising it from the table and snap-
  ping the fingers to give the die a twist.  Such a spin generally
  allows the die to stay one-side up or even one-face up, perhaps
  even not changing faces.  Obviously, this technique is right out.
  The Computer-Generated Roll: Completely against the
  spirit of HackMaster, anyone that insists on using a computer
  to roll dice is obviously an inexperienced rube.  Such rolls are
  not allowed in HackMaster (even if the user is actually kind
  enough to show everyone the roll) and especially not the kind
  accompanied by an annoying, fake dice-rolling sound.  You
  know the one.  Don’t allow laptop or MID or phone rolling of
  any kind.  Insist on real dice, anything else is OFFICIALLY
  against the rules.
  A Final Word
  A Final Word
  Let me say this, as a personal note, on the importance of dice
  to HackMaster.  Most gamers agree there’s nothing more
  beautiful than a handful of multi-colored, jewel-like dice glis-
  tening in the warm light atop the gaming table.  There is no
  better sound than that of the hard plastic patter of dice hitting
  a gaming table.  There is no greater thrill than having a char-
  acter standing toe to toe with death and seeing that impossible
  number pop up on the dice to save him.  
  Treasure those little gems, my friends.  Treat ‘em right, and
  you won’t be sorry.
  The Confidence Roll
  Some gamers find that having an atti-
  tude when rolling the dice works best for
  them. The Confidence Roll is just that –
  stepping up to the plate and letting the
  dice fly without any begging or tip of the
  hat to Lady Luck.
  1. After shaking the die vigorously in a
  clenched fist, the palm is opened and tipped
  as it is thrust toward the designated dice
  rolling zone.
  2. Just as the die is about to leave the hand the
  palm is inverted with a quick twist of the wrist
  for added thrust.
  3. The die is projected toward the table at a
  sharp angle to give it a ‘bounce.’
  The Two Fisted Monkey Roll
  The Two-Fisted Monkey roll is one of the most
  impressive techniques and it gets attention.
  Especially when used to roll hands full of penetra-
  tion dice.
  1. Dice are cupped between the palms as they clasp cre-
  ating enough of a pocket/cavity the dice to be able to
  shake and move.
  2. Dice are then shaken vigorously in a jerking motion
  almost as if the roller were angry.
  3. Upon release the palms and fingers are extended and
  thrust forward sending the die/dice shooting for into the
  DRZ.’
  
SOURCE: textdata/thevault/Hackmaster/HackMaster 5e/HackMaster 5e Supplemental/HackMaster 5e On Dice.pdf