TEXT: GUILD HUNTERS 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Designed by John Pace, 
  Ray McMullen, and Corin Tegen 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Copyright 2005 by Oddball Enterprises. All rights reserved  
  
  INTRODUCTION 
   
   
  Welcome to the world of GUILD HUNTERS.  GUILD HUNTERS is a fantasy game.  It 
  has everything you have come to expect from a fantasy game with a new twist on things.  The 
  GUILD HUNTERS setting is about the thrill, power, and danger that comes from being in a 
  guild.  In GUILD HUNTERS you join or create a new guild in the city of Council Bluffs.  The 
  purpose of playing this game is to gain as much personal reputation and guild reputation as you 
  can and survive being a guild member.  Sounds simple doesn’t it?  As you can reputation you are 
  taking reputation from other people and guilds.  The more well known you become the more 
  people who want to eliminate you and your guild.  This is so for 2 reasons.  Reason one is 
  because if guilds lower than your reputation take you out then they gain reputation for being the 
  guild to get rid of you.  The other problem is the reputation you get the more you are stealing 
  from other people and no one likes to be up staged.  
  You will not do this alone however for you can gain allies to help you with your raise to 
  glory, as long as you help with their raise to glory.  The course you take to greater reputation and 
  glory varies as greatly as a man.  You could take jobs here and there and do well at them and 
  gain the praise of the people you work for, you could blackmail and bribe peers and city officials 
  to make sure your reputation goes up, you could use your steal and cut down all that oppose you 
  and your guild, or you could simply buy out your competition building a huge empire, the list is 
  nearly endless in what you can do.   
   
  With all of the backstabbing, bribing, and down right hunting of power in Council Bluffs 
  is not safe for a guild up and raising, but that is what makes it fun.  To beat out all others around 
  you and claim the glory that is so rightfully yours.  Can you survive? Can you live long enough 
  for your story to be told around the bar?  Do you have the wits to become a legend in your own 
  time?  Well play and find out. 
   
  GUILD HUNTERS is a very dangerous world setting.  Combat is fast paced so even the 
  strongest, toughest person could be brought down in one action if it was thought out well 
  enough.  If the combat does not kill you the magic might.  Magic is very powerful and very 
  deadly.  Because magic is everywhere and in everything all players are mages and can wield 
  magic.   
   
  WARNING: 
   
  This game is meant for entertainment only.  DO NOT go out and try to create a real guild.  
  DO NOT go out and try to move in on others property.  DO NOT attack people with real 
  weapons.  This is a fantasy game and is not real.  If you have a problem tell the difference 
  between the real world and a fantasy game do not buy this book.  Oddball Enterprises will not be 
  held accountable for your actions.  In purchasing this book or using any content in this book you 
  are saying you understand this warning. 
   
  As you read through the rest of the book keep in mind what you might like to play or run and 
  welcome to GUILD HUNTERS.  We hope you enjoy.   
  
   
  RULES FOR GUILD HUNTERS 
   
  To play GUILD HUNTERS the only dice you will ever need are 3 D12, 3 twelve sided 
  dice.  The 3 D12 system is fun, quick paced, easy to use and understand.  We have tried to make 
  this game as free flowing as possible; from use of magic to character creation, from the rules to 
  rolling the dice.  We hope that you enjoy GUILD HUNTERS and gain many fond memories of 
  games played.  We have tried to make the rules easy to read; that way you can learn the rules 
  quickly and will be able to move right on to actually playing.  The basic idea of the 3 D12 
  system is you roll your 3 D12 and add that total to your skill and the attribute that the skill falls 
  under.  That is it.  Of course it does get a little more complex as you add more rules, but that is 
  the basic idea of the 3 D12 system. 
   
  Your 3 D12’s represent your skill, the attribute you are using, and luck.  You need all 
  three; skill, raw ability (your attribute), and pure luck to truly succeed in life.  Roll all three dice, 
  add them up and that is your dice total.  If you have at least one point in the skill you are using, 
  then add the dice total to the number of points you have in the skill plus the main or sub-attribute 
  score you are using.  If you do not have any points in the skill you are trying to use, then all you 
  have is the dice total plus the sub-attribute score you are using.  When you have a final total you 
  see if your total beats the target number (TN) or if you beat your opponent’s total.  If your total is 
  equal to or beats the TN or opponent, then you have succeeded in the task or action you were 
  doing; but if you got lower than the TN or your opponents score, then you have failed the task or 
  action you were doing.   
   
  Combat is broken down into turns.  Each turn is then broken down into actions.  Most 
  players will have between 5 and 7 actions per turns that can be used for a verity of things.  You 
  could attack someone, defended against attacks, cast a spell; defend a spell, and many other 
  things.  Turns are 10 seconds long in GUILD HUNTERS.  The combat works in order of 
  progression and when all steps are taken then you start over.  The order is: 
   
  1) Roll Initiative 
  2) Take actions/defend 
  3) Deal damage/record damage  
  4) Declare hold actions 
  5) Move onto next highest initiative 
  6) Redo steps 1-5 as needed 
  7) Use any hold actions left 
  8) Start over 
   
  1) Roll Initiative: On this step each player and the GM rolls one D12 adding its number with 
  your agility main attribute.  Highest number goes first.  In case of tie person with highest 
  reflexes sub attribute goes first.  If both of those are the same then re roll D12 and the 
  person with the highest number on the die wins. 
  2) Take actions/defend: The person with the highest initiative goes first.  That person will 
  decide how many actions he is going to take and take that many in on go.  If the person 
  
  attacking attacks you may use a defend action to try and block him or you may just let 
  them hit you and save your actions for other things. 
  3) Deal damage/record damage: If you hit something tell the GM how much damage you 
  have done and he will subtract that form the location you hit.  If you are hitting another 
  player tell that player how much damage you did and they will subtract that number from 
  the location you hit.  If the GM hits you subtract the number he tells you from the 
  location damaged. 
  4) Declare hold actions: If you want to hold any actions for later use tell the GM now.  If 
  you do not declare you are holding actions you may not use them later. 
  5) Move onto next highest initiative: Once you have declared your hold actions your turn is 
  done for the moment.  The actions go to the next highest initiative. 
  6) Redo steps 1-5 as needed: Repeat steps 1-5 as many times as needed to get through all 
  initiatives. 
  7)  Use any hold actions left: Anyone who has not used their hold actions may do so at this 
  point.  If you do not use them now the turn will be over and the hold actions do not hold 
  over to next turn. 
  8) Start over: Start a new turn with step 1 and go through step 8.  Repeat these 8 steps until 
  combat is resolved.   
  
  INITIATIVE 
   
  Initiative is the process of deciding who goes first and thus how combat will go for that 
  round.  The way it works in GUILD HUNTERS is you roll 1 D12 then add your Agility main 
  attribute score to come up with their total.  The player with the highest total goes first, then the 
  second highest and so on down the list.  The GM should roll for each of the opponents as well.  
  When doing it this way the GM needs to write down the order so that no one forgets, or just 
  write down the opponents’ totals and whoever has the highest number goes first.  If a tie happens 
  then all the players who tied should compare their Reflex score; the person with the highest 
  Reflex score wins the tie.  If you have two or more people with the same Reflex score then those 
  players will role a D12, whoever has the highest number on the dice goes first, then the second 
  and so on until all of the ties are figured out.  This sounds a lot more complex on paper than it 
  actually is when you’re playing and things are moving. 
   
  Example: 
   
  Matt, Ray, Corin, and John were running from the local guards when they ran into another patrol 
  of six guards.  Matt has an Agility of 8; Ray, 10; Corin, 8; and John, 10.  For ease, all of the guards have 
  a 7 (average.)  Each of the players and the GM roll 1 D12.  Matt gets a 10 on the dice for a total of 18 (8 
  for his Agility plus 10 on the dice), Ray get 9 a total 19, Corin gets 4 for a total of 12, and John gets 12 
  for a total of 22.  The GM rolls for each of the guards and gets a 4 for a total of 11, 10 for a total of 17, 2 
  for a total of 9, 5 for a total of 12, 8 for a total of 15, and 9 for a total 16.  The totals for everyone are 18, 
  19, 12, 22, 11, 17, 9, 12, 15, and 16.  There is a two-way tie for 12.  Corin and one of the guards each 
  have a total of 12.  When you have a tie for a spot the one with the higher Reflex would go first.  If two or 
  more have the same total and the same Reflex score, then those people would roll a D12 and whoever has 
  the higher number on the dice would go first, then second, and etc.  So since Corin, and one of the guards 
  have a total of 12 we then look at their Reflex scores.  Corin has a Reflex score of 6 and the guard has a 
  Reflex score of 5.  Corin has the highest score out of the tie so he will act first out of the group with 12’s.  
  So it will be Corin then the guard. 
  The final order is: 
  John 
  22 
  Ray 
  19 
  Matt 
  18 
  Guard 17 
  Guard 16 
  Guard 15 
  Corin 12 
  Guard 12 
  Guard 11  
  Guard 9 
   
  Initiative is to be re-rolled every turn and a new order found; because, if the person ahead 
  of you in the final order is attacking you, all you will ever get to do is defend, or take the hit and 
  attack him.  Because combat is chaos everything is always changing; therefore you might have 
  the upper hand one second and be down the next second. 
   
   
    
                                                              
  
                 
   
   
  NON-OPPOSED ACTIONS 
   
   
  The different types of actions you will do in GUILD HUNTERS are non-opposed and 
  opposed.  Non-opposed actions and opposed actions work in very similar ways.  With a non-
  opposed action you are trying to get equal to or higher than your difficulty or target number 
  (TN).  The basics are just like opposed actions you get your skill total plus your main/sub-
  attribute score and add that your dice total.  Your game master (GM) will give you the difficulty 
  or target number (TN) you will need to equal or beat either before or after you roll.  First of all 
  you need to find what skill or attribute you are using.  Next you roll your 3 D12 and add them up 
  to get your dice total.  Next add your skill total, your main or sub-attribute you are using, and 
  you dice total together.  Now add or subtract any bonuses, penalties, critical failure, or critical 
  success to your total to get a final total number.  If your final total equals or beats the difficulty 
  number, then you succeeded; and if your total is lower than the difficulty number, you failed.   
  A non-opposed action is an action that does not have someone or something trying to 
  beat you at the other end.  Normally non-opposed actions are the actions you are doing outside of 
  combat like: rolling to notice things; picking a lock; trying to fix a tool, door, wagon, etc. 
   
  For example: 
  Corin is trying to fix some armor that was dented in battle.  Corin has an armor skill  of 5 and a  
  Might (sub-attribute of Strength) of 4. Making his total before he rolls 9 (5 for his skill and 4 for the 
  Might sub- attribute).  Now he rolls his 3 D12's and come up with 4,7,9 for a total of 20 plus his 9 for a 
  grand total of 29.  His GM now tells him his TN was 15; since his total beat his TN he fixed the piece of 
  armor he was working on. 
   
  The difficulty or target numbers (TN) range from 0 to 49+.  The harder the task you are 
  trying to do the higher the difficulty will be.  The easier the task the lower the difficulty will be.  
  It is up to the game master (GM) to decide what the difficulty will be.   
  The difficulties are: 
  0-12: So easy that if you fail you either should pack up and go home or you are very,  
  very, very, very drunk. 
  13-24: Easy 
        25-36: Average difficulty. 
  37-48: Hard. 
        49 plus: So hard a demon might have to look up to you for succeeding at this task. 
   
  We know these numbers probably look high to you.  The difficulties are a little higher 
  because we are using D12’s.  Think of it this way.  You have 3 D12 to roll so the highest you can 
  get just from the dice is 34 without a critical success.  The highest skill you can start with is 10 
  and the highest sub-attribute you can start with is 7 (before racial bonuses) so that is another 17 
  (10 for the skill and 7 for the sub-attribute) making the highest total you can get is 51 (12, 11, 11, 
  10, 7) without a critical success (See critical success/failure section.)   
  
  OPPOSED ACTIONS 
   
  In an opposed action you are trying to beat another person at an action.  Most combat related 
  actions are opposed such as trying to hit someone with your sword and seeing if he dodges or 
  parries, shooting a bow or crossbow, blocking, just trying to get out of the way, and things like 
  that.  The opposed action also covers anything like magic or skills like Intimidation where it 
  might not be a combat round.  In short, an opposed action is any action that has an opponent 
  trying to stop you by using their dice and skill.  The other person might be an opponent (NPC) or 
  another player character.   
  In an opposed action both people roll their 3 D12's and add the total to the skill they are using 
  (if they have points in that skill, if not it is just what is on the 3 dice) plus the appropriate sub-
  attribute.  When both people have their totals they say what their total is and whoever has the 
  highest total beats the other person’s action. 
  There are three types of opposed actions in GUILD HUNTERS.  The first is melee or hand-
  to-hand combat.  In both melee and hand-to-hand combat you are very close to the person you 
  are attacking or defending against.  In this style of combat it comes down to who is better.  To 
  show this in the game, whoever has the highest total after bonuses and penalties are counted in 
  beats the other person. 
  In GUILD HUNTERS if you have looked at the skill list already you may have noticed that 
  there is no dodge skill.  In GUILD HUNTERS your Brawl, Martial Arts (M.A.,) or Melee skill is 
  your dodge.  When you train in skills like Brawl, M.A., or any Melee you learn how to attack as 
  well as to defend so for ease of the game your skill will include both attacking and getting 
  attacked. 
   
  For example: 
  If John is trying to hit Ray and Ray is trying to dodge the attack, then this is an opposed action.  
  John has a Brawl of 5 plus a Dex (sub-attribute of Agility) of,4 and Ray has a Brawl of 6 but a Dex (sub- 
  attribute of Agility) of 4.  So before the dice are rolled John has a total of 9 (5 for his skill plus 4 from 
  the) and Ray has 10 (6 for his skill and 4 from his Dex.)  Before the dice are rolled they have close to the 
  same total.  John and Ray each roll their 3 D12’s.  John rolled 10, 12, and 5, and Ray rolled 6, 8, and 11; 
  so John's total on the dice is 28 plus 9 gives a total of 3, and Ray's dice total is 25 plus 10 gives a total of 
  35.  John has 37 and Ray has 35 so John hit Ray and Ray did not dodge John's attack 
   
   
  The second opposed action is a long-ranged attack.  When one person is using a long-
  ranged weapon the rules are a little different.  Anything shot, such as bows and crossbows and 
  things like slings, will be considered long-ranged weapons.  Anything thrown by your own 
  strength is not considered long-ranged attack and therefore may be parried like normal.  If you 
  are being shot at by a long-ranged weapon and do not know it is coming then you may not use 
  Brawl, M.A., or a melee skill to try to get out of the way.  If you do not know the arrow is 
  coming then you get nothing.  If you know the arrow or bolt is coming, then you may try to 
  dodge (see below) but it will cost you all 1 action per dodge.  It is hard to get out of the way of 
  an arrow or crossbow even if you know it is coming except maybe from a long distance, that is 
  why you can only use your Agility attribute plus your normal 3 D12 dice in game. 
   
  For example: 
   
  Matt is trying to shoot down a robber.  Matt has a bow skill of 7 and a Dex of 3 (sub-attribute of 
  Agility.)  The robber has an Agility of 7, so Matt has a good chance of hitting the robber.  Before rolling 
  
  Matt has a score of 10 (7 for his skill and 3 for his Dex.)  Now he rolls his dice and come up with 2, 5, 
  and 11 for a total of 18 plus the 10(for his skill and sub attribute) for a grand total of 28.  The GM rolls 
  for the robber and comes up with 9, 5, and 4.  The robber’s total is 18 plus his 7 for Agility for a grand 
  total of 25.  Matt’s 28 beats the robber’s 25 so Matt hits the robber with his bow and will inflict damage. 
   
  You may try to get out of the way of an arrow but it comes at a high cost.  It costs 1 
  action for each arrow, bolt or bullet you are trying to get out of the way of.  You only get what 
  you roll on your 3 D12 plus your Agility score.  You also cannot use any bonuses you get from a 
  weapon style when moving out of the way of a long ranged attack.  This is different from a full 
  out dodge, which is running, and not moving in a straight line trying to get out of the way.  With 
  a full out dodge you lose all of your actions. 
  The only way to get a “dodge” in GUILD HUNTERS is to declare a full dodge.  This 
  means you are using all of your actions for that turn to hit the deck or run like mad for cover.  If 
  you do the full dodge, then you cannot do any other actions that turn.  You may declare that you 
  are doing a full dodge even before your turn, because you are giving up your turn so that you can 
  run.  If you use the full dodge, you roll once and use that number for all shots made against you.  
  When you make a full dodge you get 3 D12 to roll plus your Agility attribute plus 5.  If you have 
  the Athletics skill then you may add that in to the total as well. When we talk about dodging we 
  mean you are hitting the dirt or running like mad to try and find some cover or get out of the way 
  of something.  Dodging is something you can only do when you are being shot at or have an area 
  affect spell go off near you.  When you dodge you roll your 3 D12 and add that total to your 
  Agility attribute score for a total.  The GM might decide that sometimes you cannot dodge due to 
  some problem or lack of cover.  The GM always has the final say on if you can dodge or not.   
   
  If you have a shield you can use it to put in the way of the arrow which makes it an 
  opposed action, and if the archer hits then you are hit but if you beat the archer then it hits your 
  shield and does damage to your shield.     
   
  For example: 
   
  The robber is now going to try to turn and hit Matt with his bow.  Matt decides to hit the 
  pavement instead of trying to fire back.  Matt has an Agility of 6.  Now Matt rolls 3 D12 and comes up 
  with 3, 4, and 6 for a total of 13 plus his Agility of 6 for a total of 19.  So without hitting the pavement 
  Matt's total score is 19, and by hitting the pavement his score is now 24 (19 total plus 5 for full dodge.)  
  So now the robber has to get 24 or more. 
   
   
   
  At this time we would like to remind you that if you have a shield, you may defend like 
  normal if you have the actions. 
   
  The third type of opposed action is a non-combat opposed action.  Non-combat opposed 
  actions include any opposed action just without the need for a time limit like in combat.  Things 
  like gambling would be a part of non-combat opposed actions.  These actions work just like the 
  combat version so you roll and add that to your skill and the sub-attribute which is related to get 
  your total.  The other player, or the GM, rolls and adds that to their skill and the appropriate sub-
  attribute to come up with their total.  Whoever has the highest total wins.  The only difference 
  between a non-combat opposed action and a combat opposed action is that with the non-combat 
  opposed action one roll will cover many hours.  One roll should cover at least 2 hours possibly 
  more.  That time frame will be up to the GM.  These rolls will help save time because you do not 
  
  need to roll as often, but still gives the player a feeling like they still have gotten something 
  accomplished. 
  There is a nasty combat opposed action called “stealth” combat actions.  “Stealth” actions 
  are combat actions where the person you are attacking is not aware you are there so they do not 
  get to roll anything.  These types of actions will work just like a normal opposed action except 
  you have to roll your Stealth versus his Awareness first.  If you beat his total, then he does not 
  know you are there and you can just deal the damage (no rolling, we assume you are close or 
  have trained your bow on him.)  If he beats your total, then he has seen or heard you and he may 
  attempt to parry or dodge depending on what you are doing.  The “Stealth” action covers things 
  like shooting an arrow or crossbow at someone who does not see you, stabbing someone in the 
  back when they do not know you are there, and any combat action where the person being 
  attacked does not see or hear you.  This type of action will only work on the first attack after that 
  (if the person is still alive) you can only attack normally.  This works for both melee and ranged 
  attacks. When you have performed a successful “stealth attack” you attack with a called shot, 
  which means you announce where it will hit and deal double damage.  The point of this vicious 
  attack is to kill or injure someone without them knowing you are there.   
   
   
  
   
   
   
  ACTIONS 
   
  Now comes the question of what can you do in a turn and how many actions do you get 
  in a turn.  A turn can be as long as the GM wants it to be.  In other games a turn is usually 3 or 4 
  seconds, but the standard for GUILD HUNTERS will be 10 seconds.  There are 10 seconds a 
  turn because you will have a lot of actions you can take during each turn.  You can do anything 
  in a turn you can normally do in the amount of time allowed.  Because this is a role-playing 
  game you can do multiple actions during a turn provided you have the actions. 
  Each player starts with 2 base actions and can have up to 6 or more actions which may be 
  used to attack, defend, move, hold, interrupt, defend another, or cast magic each turn.  Each 
  person will get 2 actions plus or minus your weapon actions and any action you might get from 
  your weapon style.  Most people are going to end up with 5 or 6 actions a turn.  You cannot have 
  fewer then 2 actions a turn.  While this may seem like a lot, you need to remember that these are 
  all of the actions you get; if you run out of them you cannot do anything.  You cannot take any 
  action before your turn unless someone is attacking you.  If you choose to defend that attack it 
  counts as an action and you subtract one action from your total number of actions that turn. 
  For those who have many actions each turn, you may hold as many actions as you have 
  left.  If you hold actions they can be used at any time, including interrupting somebody else’s 
  action, to attack, for a defense, to move, or to cast a spell.  On a held action you can do anything 
  you normally can do; the only difference is you are waiting for the right time to do something.  
  You can only hold actions for that turn.  Any held actions that are not used by the end of the turn 
  are gone.  You cannot hold actions through to the next turn of actions.   
  If you choose to interrupt someone else’s action, then you go before them and make in 
  action.  You can use the interrupt to try to hit a mage while he is casting a spell or make a 
  defense action for someone else. 
  There are no extra actions beyond the normal actions from your Agility, weapon actions, 
  and any actions from your weapon style.  Because you, the player, have many actions to begin 
  with we feel that there is no need for extra actions beyond that.  The other reason is too many 
  actions by the players and NPC’s will slow combat down too much.  You need to plan your 
  actions carefully so you have enough actions to cover everything you might need to do that turn.  
  For ease of game play, all types of actions are considered to be the same.  Just add your normal 
  actions and your weapon actions to find out how many actions you get that turn. 
  The second way you get extra actions is with weapon actions.  Weapon actions come 
  from the weapon you are wielding.  Every weapon in the game gives bonus actions ranging from 
  0 to +3 actions.  The faster the weapon, the more actions it gives but the damage it does is 
  reduced.  The slower the weapon, the fewer actions it gives, but the damage it does is increased.  
  This gain of actions simply gets added to the actions you normally get.  For example, if you were 
  using a short sword, you then have 4 actions (your 2 normal actions and 2 for the short sword.)  
  When using your actions they will count as 4 actions and will not be broken down into normal 
  actions and weapon actions.  A weapon can give no bonus.  For example, if you are using a two-
  handed mace, you would get 2 actions (2 normal actions and 0 actions from the mace.)  You do 
  not have to use all of your actions if you do not think you need them.  You can hold any action.  
  This would be considered a faint move, where you delay your attack and possibly make a block.   
  
  The last way you get actions is from your weapon style.  Most weapon styles give you 
  extra actions outright or just for defense actions.  These actions will be added to your other 
  actions for your final total.  For example, if you were using a short sword with the single weapon 
  style, you would get a total of 6 actions (2 for your normal actions, 2 for the short sword, and 2 
  extra actions for the weapon style.)  When a weapon style gives you extra defensive actions, then 
  you can only use those extra actions for defensive actions.  For example, if you were using a 
  spear and the two-handed weapon style you would get 6 (2 actions for your normal actions, 2 
  actions for the spear, and 2 defense actions for the weapon style,) but only 4 of the actions could 
  be used any way you wish.  The other 2 actions that come from the weapon style must be used 
  for defense.   
  What do all of these actions mean from your characters standpoint?  Well everyone 
  knows how to defend themselves even if it is poorly, so that is why everyone gets 2 normal 
  actions.  All weapons are different and usually small weapons are quick and easy to maneuver 
  and larger weapons are often a bit slower and harder for a normal person to use, so that is where 
  the weapon actions come from.  The last way you get actions is from the weapon styles.  When 
  you train with a weapon style for a long time you get used to how that weapon moves and feels, 
  so when fighting with it, it becomes almost like an extension of your hand, and you move with 
  the weapon making a balance of person and weapon.  All of these come together to tell how 
  many actions you get. 
  We at Oddball Enterprises strongly suggest that you use half of your actions for some 
  type of attacking and the other half for some manner of defense.  We recommend that you do not 
  use all of them either for defense, unless you are protecting someone, or for attacking, unless you 
  know that there are only a few opponents remaining and you need to drop one person now.  If 
  you run out of actions, then pray to whatever god you believe in (and if you do not believe in 
  one, now would be a good time to start) because it is a free shot against you, no rolling or 
  anything.  If you run out of actions or the person you are attacking runs out of actions, then you 
  automatically hit for full damage with every action you use to attack him with.  If you want to 
  make a called shot to a location you may do so, but there are some rules to follow when a person 
  runs out of actions.  If a person runs out of actions and you want to make a called shot then you 
  roll your 3 D12 and add them up.  If the dice total equals or is greater than 21, then you hit the 
  location you were going for.  If you get less than 21 you still hit, but do not get the double 
  damage and you roll to see where you hit.  You do not add anything to this roll; it is just the total 
  of the 3 D12. 
   
  
  USING YOUR OFF HAND/WEAPON STYLES 
   
  If you are using your off-hand for whatever reason (because you have to due to an injured 
  primary hand or if trying to learn to use or off hand,) then you have a -4 penalty to whatever 
  action you are doing with that hand.  The advantage Ambidexterity does not cover two-weapon 
  fighting.  People who can use their off hand may be able to use two-weapons at the same time, 
  but they would have to train at it; likewise someone who cannot use their off hand for anything, 
  but can use two-weapons at the same time due to training (assuming they have the two-weapon 
  fighting style.)  Two-weapon fighting will be covered in weapon styles.   
  Weapon styles are specialized ways to fight.  There are five different weapon styles in 
  GUILD HUNTERS: Single Weapon, Two Weapon, Two-Handed, Weapon and Shield, and Bow 
  style.  The Single Weapon style is when you are using just one weapon that is either one or one 
  and a half handed.  This style is the second most often used style.  The Two Weapon style is 
  when you are using two weapons at the same time.  Most people using this style use a one or one 
  and a half-handed weapon in their main hand and a smaller weapon, like a short sword or dagger, 
  in their off-hand.  Another form of the style would be using two small weapons of the same type 
  such as daggers.  The rarest form of this style is using two one or one and a half-handed weapons 
  of the same length.  Two-Handed Weapon style is using a huge weapon that requires two hands.  
  Another weapon style is the Weapon and Shield, and is the most commonly used among most 
  races.  The Weapon and Shield style uses a normal one or one and a half-handed weapon in the 
  main hand and a shield of some sort the in the off hand.  The last weapon style is the Bow style.  
  The Bow style uses bows, but not crossbows. 
  Each weapon style has its own bonuses.  You do not get any of the bonuses or the extra 
  actions from the style if you are not using your full style.  For example if you have the Weapon 
  and Shield style and you are not using your shield, then you do not get to use any of the 3 
  bonuses from the list for that style and you do not get the extra defense actions.  The only 
  exception to that rule is if you have the single weapon style and you have a torch in the other 
  hand.  As long as the torch is only being used for seeing then you can use your weapon style.  As 
  soon as you try to use the torch for combat you cannot use your style.  No style is better then any 
  other; it just depends on what you decide your character is better at.  All players must take one 
  weapon style at time of character creation; this shows what he is good at.  When choosing a 
  weapon style, keep in mind that each style is going to have bonuses, in game, to show a level of 
  skill with those weapons.  Everyone can use any style, but will not receive any of the bonuses if 
  it is not your chosen style.  All players receive the bonus from their style.  It seems people are 
  just more comfortable with one style over another.  A player can buy more weapon styles with 
  XP, and we will explain how much it costs in the experience area. 
   
  Single Weapon style: 
  The Single Weapon style is a very common style for several reasons.  First you only have 
  to buy one weapon making it is a very cheap style.  Second, it is the easiest style to learn.  
  Finally you can change from one hand to having two hands on your weapon for a more powerful 
  swing as most weapons used by the Single Weapon style are one or one and a half handed 
  weapons.  The Single Weapon style is normally a quick and nimble attack style because you only 
  have one mid sized or smaller weapon to swing around.  You also only have one weapon to 
  worry about; so you can keep all of your thoughts on your one weapon and the other person.  
  Single weapon covers any small and medium weapons.  It also covers one and a half handed 
  
  weapons.  That is the only type of large weapon that can be used with this style; all other large 
  weapons are under the two-handed weapon style.  A person who chooses the single weapon style 
  will receive one of the following bonuses a turn, if you choose to take a bonus: 
   
  1) 
  Add 5 to your total for an attack.  This shows you are attacking more fiercely 
  and with greater speed. 
  2) 
  Add 5 to your total for a defense.  This shows you are thinking more on 
  parrying the attack thus being harder to be attacked. 
  3) 
  Add 5 to your damage.  This shows that you had much more power in this 
  attack than the other person had expected, thus doing more damage. 
   
  With this style you get 2 extra actions per round.  This is true as long as you have the style. 
   
  Two-Weapon style: 
   
  The Two Weapon style is one the hardest styles to learn and takes years for most people 
  to learn.  For most people there are more down sides than up.  On the down side, you have to 
  have enough strength in both arms to use two weapons at the same time, you also get tired more 
  quickly, and in battle you not only have to know where your opponent is, you also have to know 
  where both of your weapons are.  On the plus side, your opponent now has to fight two weapons 
  instead of one and you can parry and attack in one turn.  As stated above, there are several 
  different combinations in the two-weapon area.  The easiest would be a normal sized weapon 
  along with a smaller sized weapon in your off-hand.  The classic example would be a rapier in 
  your main hand and a dagger in the other.  The dagger is used much like a shield would be as it 
  is mostly there to block or parry the oncoming weapon.  Another combination is the two small 
  weapons such as two daggers or short swords.  Quick characters will like this since small 
  weapons are fast and light, though they do not as much damage as larger weapons.  Small 
  weapons make for great backstabbing weapons.  The hardest combination for most people is the 
  two weapons of normal size such as two rapiers or long swords.  Now you have two weapons 30-
  40 inches long dancing around one another trying not to get tangled up in them.  For those who 
  wish to use the two-weapon style you get one of these bonuses each turn if you want: 
   
  1) 
  You may interrupt an attack on you with your own attack.  This interrupt must 
  come after you have made a defense action.  This action does not take away from 
  your other actions. 
  2) 
  You may defend twice with one action.   
  3) 
  You may attack two different people at the same time with one action.  The 
  people must to be close to one another (their hexes are next to each other.)  Roll 
  one attack for both people.   
   
  When you pick this weapon style, you can use two weapons at the same time; by doing so 
  you get all of the actions from both weapons.  This is true as long as you are using two weapons 
  at the same time. 
   
  Two-Handed Weapon style: 
   
  The Two-Handed Weapon style covers all melee weapons that require two hands to use: 
  the classic two-handed sword, claymore, and two-handed mace.  This style will also cover things 
  
  like staffs and spears (normal sized not throwing spears.)  The Two-Handed Weapon style covers 
  anything that is in the large category.  The Two-Handed Weapon style is great for range.  The 
  weapon is bigger (usually by two feet or more) so your opponent has to get within that range to 
  be effective against you.  A Two-Handed Weapon can also allow you to apply more force behind 
  the attack because you have both hands on the weapon when attacking.  You can move your 
  Two-Handed Weapon just as fast as, let’s say, a long sword or broadsword.  The myth is that the 
  bigger the weapon the slower it is; well let me say that after seeing people with claymores go at 
  it that is not true at all.  For the people who want to use the Two-Handed Weapon style, here are 
  your bonuses, like the others you can only use one of these a turn and you do not have to take 
  one if you do not want to: 
   
  1) 
  You may attack two different people (if they are close enough together) at the 
  same time, due to your longer reach.  You only roll once and if you hit one, you 
  hit both and do the same damage to both. 
  2) 
  You may defend against two different people at the same time.   
  3) 
  Whirlwind attack.  You can attack anyone in a circle around you, which are 
  within your reach, in one attack.  If you chose this attack you attack all people 
  within that you can reach, friend and foe alike.  You make one attack roll and if 
  you hit you do the same amount of damage to all you hit.  Each person you attack 
  can defend (up to the GM.) 
   
  With this weapon style you get 2 extra defense actions as long as you are using a weapon that 
  requires two hands to use. 
   
  Weapon and Shield style: 
   
  This style is more commonly referred to as the sword and shield or sword and board 
  style.  This style is the most commonly used style, as it is great for attacking and defending.  You 
  have a one-handed or a one and a half-handed weapon in your main hand and some sort of one-
  handed shield in your off-hand.  The weapon is used for attacking while you put up your shield 
  with your off-hand so your opponent will hit the shield instead of you or your weapon.  This is 
  handy because your opponent has to get around your shield in order to hit you.  Also when your 
  opponent’s weapon is caught up in trying to get around your shield, it is normally not very useful 
  to your opponent; making it easier for you to hit him.  This is one of the most balanced styles, 
  which another reason it is so widely used.  The down sides for this style are very few indeed, 
  while the up sides are much, much more.  For the people who want to use the Weapon and 
  Shield style here are the bonuses.  Like the other four you only get to choose one of these per 
  turn, but you do not have to take any in any giving turn: 
   
  1) 
  Shield bash.  If this attack is successful, you hit your opponent full force with 
  your shield, not only doing damage to the person but it knocks the person over as 
  well.  Your opponent loses his next action. 
  2) 
  Surprise attack.  With this attack you place your weapon behind your shield, so 
  your opponent cannot see it.  If this attack is successful, your opponent does not 
  see your attack coming.  You add 10 to you final total when using this attack. 
  3) 
  You may attack and defend in one action without taking away from your other 
  actions. 
  
  With this weapon style you get 2 extra defense actions with your shield as long as you are using 
  your shield.  You also have the ability to defend against arrows and small missile attacks. 
   
  Bow Weapon style: 
   
  This style uses all bows but not crossbows.  You have trained to do things with bows that 
  most people would drool over.  You do not just shoot an arrow, but you do it with flare and style.  
  This weapon style is a favorite among those people who are going to be using a bow for most of 
  their combat.  With the bow style you can keep more opponents at bay or are able to maneuver to 
  make a hard shot.  Like the other four you only get to choose one of these per turn, but you do 
  not have to take any in any giving turn: 
  1) Trick shot.  You use this for a hard shot or when you are trying to show off.  You can 
  use this to shoot around corners and off trees and many more things.  When 
  performing a tricky or difficult shot add 10 to your final total. 
  2) Multiple arrows.  You can shoot two arrows at the same time, to the same target.  If 
  you hit, both arrows do damage instead of just one arrow. 
  3) Speed shot.  You can shoot more arrows in a round than most people can.  Most 
  people can only shoot two arrows every action, but you can shoot four arrows during 
  an action. 
   
  You get 2 extra offensive actions with your bow whenever you are using your bow.
  
                            CALLED SHOT 
   
  Doing a called shot is tricky; but the rewards are worth it, if you can pull it off.  In 
  GUILD HUNTERS there are two types of called shots you can make, one is a hit location.  If 
  you do a called shot to a location such as an arm or leg, maybe even head, you subtract 6 from 
  your final total.  If you still hit, then you do double damage.  If you miss the called shot but still 
  would have hit without the penalty, then you need to roll to find out where you hit him and that 
  location takes half damage.  You may do a called shot to the torso with a hit location shot.  The 
  other called shot option is a location within location shot.  In this called shot option you call a 
  shot inside of a location like hand or stomach.  You subtract 10 from your final total; but if you 
  still hit, then you inflict 4 times the normal damage.  If you miss, but would have still hit without 
  the penalty, then you still hit the person but only for half damage.  Both options are meant for 
  killing or disabling a location or person.  Most people do not need to use the second called shot 
  option because most weapons doubled will get rid of armor or locations just fine.  Larger 
  weapons that do 10 or more points of damage should never need to use the second called shot 
  option because the first one works just fine.  Both of the called shot penalties are on the high side 
  because of how much damage you can do to something in one or more turns.  If you do not call a 
  shot then you roll a D12 to find out where you hit. 
   
  Shot Location 
  1 = head 
  2 and 3 = left arm 
  4 and 5 = right arm 
   6, 7, and 8 = torso 
  9 and 10 = left leg 
  11 & 12 = right leg 
   
   
  Whenever you have to increase your damage due to a critical success or a called shot, 
  first add your Strength bonus to your weapon damage then multiply that number by 2 (or 4 
  depending on what you are doing.)  All multiples you have are added together.  Let’s say you get 
  a critical success and you were doing a call shot (lucky person) you now would have a multiple 
  of 4(2 for the critical and 2 for the called shot.)  That is one dead location. 
   
  
  DEALING DAMAGE/GETTING HURT 
   
  When you have successfully hit an opponent, damage must be applied.  This section also 
  covers: hit points, healing, healing time, and other things related to damage.  Each weapon has a 
  set damage value that it does, only modified by Strength, called shot, or a critical success.  There 
  are six locations to hit on the body the head, left arm, right arm, torso, left leg, and right leg.  
  Each location has its own hit points that are based on your Body and Resistance sub-attributes.  
  Once a location has run out of hit points, it becomes useless and cannot be used.  If that location 
  takes any more damage, then it has either been cut or blown off; it has been so damaged that only 
  magic or surgery can heal it.  Characters can wear armor that will lessen or soak all of the 
  damage.  When counting up damage to a location that has armor the damage first hits the armor.  
  If any damage is remaining then it goes to the location.  If the armor in a location is reduced to 
  zero, then that section is useless until repaired.  Let’s break down each location and how many 
  hit points you have.  
   
  HEALTH CHART 
  BODY+RESISTANCE/2=HEALTH SCORE 
  Score 
  Head 
  Arms 
  Torso 
  Legs 
  Healing Time 
  1 
  3 
  5 
  10 
  7 
  1 point/day to all locations 
  2 
  5 
  7 
  14 
  9 
  2 points/day to all locations 
  3 
  6 
  9 
  18 
  11 
  3 points/day to all locations 
  4 
  7 
  11 
  22 
  13 
  4 points/day to all locations 
  5 
  8 
  13 
  26 
  15 
  5 points/day to all locations 
  6 
  10 
  15 
  30 
  17 
  1 point to all locations/6 hours 
  7 
  12 
  17 
  34 
  19 
  2 points to all locations/6 hours 
  8 
  14 
  19 
  38 
  21 
  3 points to all locations/6 hours 
  9 
  16 
  21 
  42 
  25 
  4 points to all locations/6 hours 
  10 
  20 
  25 
  50 
  30 
  2 point to all locations/2 hours 
   
   
  All weapons do damage which will be a set number plus or minus any Strength or Magic 
  bonuses you get.  This makes dealing damage very quick and to the point.  Armor has its own hit 
  points as well, so that when you hit someone wearing armor and it soaks all of the damage you 
  did it will be damaged.  This is called armor degrade because every time your armor gets hit it 
  will lose some of its stopping power.  For example if you hit someone for 5 points of damage and 
  his armor can take 25 to that location, then you did no damage to the person, but the next time 
  that piece of armor is hit it will only have a soak value of 20.  Shields and magical defense will 
  work the same way.  So the order of damage is magical, shield, armor, and then hit points.  It 
  would be too hard to determine when your shield got hit and when it did not get it so it will be 
  assumed that as long as you are using your shield and you get hit, then your shield will take 
  damage before your armor and finally you. 
   
  All melee and some bows will have your Strength bonus applied with the normal 
  damage.  The higher your Strength is, the more damage you will inflict.  Below is a chart that 
  shows how much extra damage you will do based on your Strength.  Remember to add your 
  Strength bonus before any multiples happen. 
   
  STRENGTH CHART 
  STR 
  Damage 
  Carry 
  Lift 
  
  2 
  -3 
  5 
  10 
  3 
  -2 
  10 
  20 
  4 
  -1 
  20 
  40 
  5 
  0 
  30 
  60 
  6 
  0 
  40 
  80 
  7 
  0 
  50 
  100 
  8 
  1 
  60 
  120 
  9 
  1 
  70 
  140 
  10 
  1 
  80 
  160 
  11 
  2 
  90 
  180 
  12 
  2 
  120 
  240 
  13 
  2 
  150 
  450 
  14 
  3 
  180 
  540 
  15 
  3 
  225 
  675 
  16 
  4 
  260 
  780 
   
  
                         PAIN MODIFIERS/RESISTING PAIN 
   
   
  When you are hit for more damage then your armor can take, your hit points start getting 
  decreased and you become hurt.  When people become hurt they normally cannot fight nor do 
  any good.  To show this ugly side of combat, every point of damage you have taken to some 
  location becomes a point penalty.  All of the penalty points are combined for the total penalty; if 
  you have 15 points of damage, then you have a 15 point penalty.  Keep in mind that the penalties 
  only come in when you are hit past your armor.  Do not count your armor loss in with your how 
  many hit points you have lost.  Once you get penalties up too high it is hard to do anything, there 
  are two ways to do ignore these penalties.  The first way is with your Stamina.  Let’s look at the 
  chart to better understand. 
   
  STAMINA CHART 
  STA 
  Natural Armor 
  Pain Tolerance 
  2 
  -3 
  25% ignored 
  3 
  -2 
  25% ignored 
  4 
  -1 
  25% ignored 
  5 
  0 
  25% ignored 
  6 
  0 
  25% ignored 
  7 
  0 
  50%ignored 
  8 
  1 
  50% ignored 
  9 
  1 
  50% ignored 
  10 
  1 
  50% ignored 
  11 
  2 
  50% ignored 
  12 
  2 
  75% ignored 
  13 
  2 
  75% ignored 
  14 
  3 
  75% ignored 
  15 
  3 
  75% ignored 
  16 
  4 
  What is pain? 
   
  Here we will be looking only at the pain tolerance column of this chart.  The pain tolerance tells 
  how much pain can be ignored before you pass out or become useless.  The section is broken 
  down into percentages of a D12.  When you take damage to a location beyond your armor, then 
  you are hurt.  Once you are hurt, you need to roll one D12 every turn before making any actions 
  or attempting to do anything; this only applies while you are still hurt.  If you have a 25% chance 
  of ignoring pain, then if you roll 1-3 on your D12 you suffer no pain penalties at all.  If you have 
  50% of ignoring pain, then on a roll of 1-6 you are fine.  If you have 75% chance of ignoring 
  pain, then you can roll 1-9 and be fine.  If you have a 16 in Stamina, then you have 100% pain 
  tolerance; and you will not feel pain until you die or are knocked out.  So for a quick recap: 
  25% chance 
  1-3 on the die 
  50% chance 
  1-6 on the die 
  75% chance 
  1-9 on the die 
   
   
  The other way to ignore pain is easier in the short run, but more deadly in the long run.  
  If, with the GM’s ok, there is sometime when you need to hold your ground and not die or fight 
  
  until you cannot stand, then you may make a Stamina plus resist pain roll at a TN your GM sets.  
  This roll will be unhindered (no pain penalties will be applied to this roll.)  This should be a 
  tricky roll for the player, but not out of his reach.  If you succeed, then you may fight for the 
  scene without pain penalty.  At the end of combat you either will fall unconscious or, if you have 
  enough damage done to your head to torso, die.  If you fall unconscious and are healed or die and 
  are brought back to life, then you will sleep for at least 8 hours afterwards because of the 
  tremendous trauma your body went through. 
   
  
  USEFUL CHARTS 
   
   
  You have heard about them, you have seen them, but what do they do?  This section 
  covers all of the non-magical charts of the game.  We will go over what each one does and how 
  it relates, somewhat.  Most of these charts are for your main attribute, but a few are not.  The 
  character generation is the next section, so the charts that apply to that will make more sense 
  when you read that part.  This is not the complete list of charts, just the ones we think you will 
  use most often.  A complete list of charts will be in back of the book.  The first set of charts will 
  be the main attribute charts. 
   
   
  The first chart we are going to talk about is the Strength chart.  The Strength chart 
  deals with how much you can carry and lift, as well as how much damage you cause. 
   
  STRENGTH CHART 
  STR 
  Damage 
  Carry 
  Lift
  2 
  -3 
  5 
  10 
  3 
  -2 
  10 
  20 
  4 
  -1 
  20 
  40 
  5 
  0 
  30 
  60 
  6 
  0 
  40 
  80 
  7 
  0 
  50 
  100
  8 
  1 
  60 
  120
  9 
  1 
  70 
  140
  10 
  1 
  80 
  160
  11 
  2 
  90 
  180
  12 
  2 
  120 
  240
  13 
  2 
  150 
  450
  14 
  3 
  180 
  540
  15 
  3 
  225 
  675
  16 
  4 
  260 
  780
   
  The damage column tells how much extra damage you deal or the damage taken away 
  when using your fists, melee weapon, and certain bows.  The bonuses add damage and the 
  penalties subtract damage.  The carry column tells how much you can carry without making a 
  fatigue roll, or what you can carry with comfort.  The lift column shows how much you are able 
  to lift over your head without hurting yourself or suffering fatigue thereby not needing a roll. 
   
   
   
   
   
  The next chart we have the Agility chart.  This will cover your basic number of actions and 
  your defense bonus. 
   
  AGILITY CHART 
  AGI 
  Action bonus 
  Defense 
  
  2 
  -3 
  -3 
  3 
  -2 
  -2 
  4 
  -1 
  -1 
  5 
  0 
  0 
  6 
  0 
  0 
  7 
  0 
  0 
  8 
  1 
  1 
  9 
  1 
  1 
  10 
  1 
  1 
  11 
  2 
  2 
  12 
  2 
  2 
  13 
  2 
  2 
  14 
  3 
  3 
  15 
  3 
  3 
  16 
  4 
  4 
   
  The actions column tells you what kind of offensive bonus or penalty you get.  These will 
  only count for non-magical attacks.  The defense column covers the bonus or penalty you get.  If 
  you have a penalty, then you subtract that number from your total score while defending.  If you 
  get a bonus, then add that number to your total score while defending. 
   
  The Stamina chart is next.  This chart deals with how much pain you can take and how much 
  natural armor you have. 
   
  STAMINA CHART 
  STA 
  Natural Armor 
  Pain Tolerance 
  2 
  -3 
  25% ignored 
  3 
  -2 
  25% ignored 
  4 
  -1 
  25% ignored 
  5 
  0 
  25% ignored 
  6 
  0 
  25% ignored 
  7 
  0 
  50%ignored 
  8 
  1 
  50% ignored 
  9 
  1 
  50% ignored 
  10 
  1 
  50% ignored 
  11 
  2 
  50% ignored 
  12 
  2 
  75% ignored 
  13 
  2 
  75% ignored 
  14 
  3 
  75% ignored 
  15 
  3 
  75% ignored 
  16 
  4 
  What is pain? 
   
  The natural armor column gives or takes away points to all locations.  If you have a penalty, then 
  you lose points to your hit point locations.  If you have a bonus, then you add points to all 
  locations.  How much you add or subtract depends directly on how high your Stamina is.  The 
  pain tolerance column shows how much pain you can take before passing out.  A 25% chance 
  
  means rolling 1-3 on one D12; a 50% chance means 1-6; a 75% chance means 1-9.  If you make 
  your ignore pain roll then you suffer no penalties from pain while trying to do thing. 
   
  Quick recap: 
   
  25% ignored roll 1-3 
  50% ignored roll 1-6 
  75% ignored roll 1-9 
   
  Next is the magic chart.  The higher the Magic attribute is the easier magic becomes. 
   
  MAGIC CHART 
  MAG 
  Casting 
  2 
  -3 
  3 
  -2 
  4 
  -1 
  5 
  0 
  6 
  0 
  7 
  0 
  8 
  1 
  9 
  1 
  10 
  1 
  11 
  2 
  12 
  2 
  13 
  2 
  14 
  3 
  15 
  3 
  16 
  4 
   
  Add the bonus to your total roll when casting a spell.  The minuses mean you subtract from you 
  total score. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  The next chart is the Mental chart. 
   
   
  MENTAL CHART 
  
  MEN
  Lang bonus
  2 
  -3 
  3 
  -2 
  4 
  -1 
  5 
  0 
  6 
  0 
  7 
  0 
  8 
  1 
  9 
  1 
  10 
  1 
  11 
  2 
  12 
  2 
  13 
  2 
  14 
  3 
  15 
  3 
  16 
  4 
   
  The Mental chart covers your language bonus.  What this means is you get a bonus or penalty in 
  trying to understand a language you do not have. 
   
   
  The next chart is the Social chart.  This chart deals with charisma and reaction. 
   
  SOCIAL CHART 
  SOC 
  Charisma 
  Reaction 
  2 
  Insulting 
  -3 
  3 
  Vulgar 
  -2 
  4 
  Rude 
  -1 
  5 
  0 
  0 
  6 
  0 
  0 
  7 
  0 
  0 
  8 
  +1 
  +1 
  9 
  +1 
  +1 
  10 
  +2 
  +1 
  11 
  +2 
  +2 
  12 
  +3 
  +2 
  13 
  +3 
  +2 
  14 
  +4 
  +3 
  15 
  +5 
  +3 
  16 
  +6 
  +4 
  Dealing only with skills relating to CHARISMA 
   
  The charisma column deals with how much people like or dislike you.  This only deals with 
  skills you are trying to use from the charisma section.  The bonuses are added to your total score 
  while the penalties make it hard for you to talk to people.  The reaction column deals with how 
  well people react to you when you talk.  Bonuses mean that you are easier to talk to and might 
  even get some things free and the penalties mean you have to work that much harder for people 
  to like you. 
  
  The next chart is the Perception chart.  This chart talks about how good your senses 
  are and how much of a ranged modifier you get. 
   
  PERCEPTION CHART 
  PER 
  Perception bonus 
  Ranged Mod 
  2 
  -3 
  -3 
  3 
  -2 
  -2 
  4 
  -1 
  -1 
  5 
  0 
  0 
  6 
  0 
  0 
  7 
  0 
  0 
  8 
  1 
  1 
  9 
  1 
  1 
  10 
  1 
  1 
  11 
  2 
  2 
  12 
  2 
  2 
  13 
  2 
  2 
  14 
  3 
  3 
  15 
  3 
  3 
  16 
  4 
  4 
   
  This is a fairly easy chart to look at; the higher your Perception, the better your senses are and 
  the better your ranged modifier.  The left chart is your Perception bonus or penalty chart.  These 
  bonuses or penalties are on all checks that use Perception.  If you have a penalty for your range 
  modifier, then you subtract whatever it says from your total (dice + skill + sub-attribute.)  If you 
  have a bonus then you add it to your total. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  The next set of charts is the other random charts you will use through out the game. 
   
  The health chart covers how many hit points you get and how long it takes to heal. 
   
   
   
  HEALTH CHART 
  BODY+RESISTANCE/2=HEALTH SCORE (rounded up) 
  Score 
  Head 
  Arms 
  Torso 
  Legs 
              Healing Time 
    
  1 
  3 
  5 
  10 
  7 
  1 point/day to all locations 
    
  2 
  5 
  7 
  14 
  9 
  2 points/day to all locations 
    
  
  3 
  6 
  9 
  18 
  11 
  3 points/day to all locations 
    
  4 
  7 
  11 
  22 
  13 
  4 points/day to all locations 
    
  5 
  8 
  13 
  26 
  15 
  5 points/day to all locations 
    
  6 
  10 
  15 
  30 
  17 
  1 point to all locations/6 hours 
    
  7 
  12 
  17 
  34 
  19 
  2 points to all locations/6 hours 
    
  8 
  14 
  19 
  38 
  21 
  3 points to all locations/6 hours 
    
  9 
  16 
  21 
  42 
  25 
  4 points to all locations/6 hours 
    
  10 
  20 
  25 
  50 
  30 
  2 point to all locations/2 hours 
    
   
  This is the only chart that uses two different sub-attributes to make a total; the formula is on top 
  of the chart.  This is a basic chart and quite easy to follow. 
   
  The next chart is the Target number chart: 
   
  TARGET NUMBER CHART 
  Roll 
  Level 
  Example 
  0 - 12 
  Very Easy 
  Please continue breathing, brb 
  13 - 24 
  Easy 
  You can check your own e-mail 
  25 - 36 
  Average 
  You can do your own oil change 
  37 - 48 
  Hard 
  Perform a live 540 bennihanna 
  49+ 
  Very Hard 
  Fast talk your way out of the FBI 
   
  The target number chart is how hard a non-opposed action is to achieve.   
   
   
  The next chart is the Shot Location chart: 
   
  SHOT LOCATION CHART
  1 = head 
  2 and 3 = left arm 
  4 and 5 = right arm 
   6, 7, and 8 = torso 
  9 and 10 = left leg 
  11 & 12 = right leg 
   
  If you do not call your shot then if you hit you will hit a random location.  Roll a D12 to 
  determine where you hit. 
   
  The next chart is the Traveling chart. 
  This chart explains how long it takes to get somewhere. 
   
  TRAVELING THE WORLD 
  Speed 
  Miles/hour 
  Miles/day 
  Crawling 
  0.25 
  6 
  
  Walking 
  4 
  32 
  Jogging 
  6 
  24 
  Running 
  8 
  16 
  Horse Power 
  Walking 
  Running 
  Horse 
  5 
  30 
  Horse and Buggy 
  4 
  20 
  Horse and Carriage 
  3 
  12 
  Boats 
  Rowing 
  Sailing 
  Small Craft(1-4) 
  2 
  5 
  Med. Craft(10-30) 
  5 
  13 
  Lg. Craft(60+) 
  10 
  19 
   
  This chart is broken down into two areas, miles per hour and miles per day.  Miles per hour is 
  how far you can travel in an hour.  This is for standard things, nothing fancy.  If you have a faster 
  than normal horse you may go a bit faster.  Miles per day is how far you could travel under good 
  conditions and a steady pace.  The boats section is broken into rowing and sailing.  Rowing is 
  how far you can travel using oars.  Sailing is how far you can get with wind power. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  The last chart we have is the two spheres charts.  These charts will tell you how 
  many Sorcery and Channeling spheres you get through out the game. 
   
   
  The 
  left column 
  of the 
  Sorcery 
  chart 
  denotes the 
  number of 
  points in 
  your 
  Sorcery sub-
  attribute; on 
  the 
  Channeling 
  chart it 
  denotes the 
  number of 
  points in 
  your 
  Channeling 
  sub-
  attribute.  
  The right 
  column 
  denotes how 
  many spheres you get.  For example if you had a 6 in your Sorcery you would have 5 Sorcery 
  spheres.  If you had a 4 in your Channeling then you would have 3 Channeling spheres.  These 
  charts still apply when you raise you sub-attributes.  The more points you put into the sub-
  attribute, the more spheres you get, up to a maximum of 8 in each Sorcery and Channeling. 
  Sorcery Spheres 
   
  Channeling Spheres 
  1 
  1  
  1
  1 
  2 
  2  
  2
  1 
  3 
  3  
  3
  2 
  4 
  4  
  4
  3 
  5 
  5  
  5
  4 
  6 
  5  
  6
  5 
  7 
  6  
  7
  5 
  8 
  7  
  8
  6 
  9 
  7  
  9
  7 
  10 
  8  
  10
  8 
  
   
  
  RACES 
   
  Here is an in-depth look of each race and their views on magic and the world.  
  This will give you a good idea of how the majority of the race feels and how you should 
  play your character.  We know that nobody is the same; so if you like a race, but do not 
  like the view it means that your character is outside the normal for the race and might 
  have been picked on for being different.  There is a short summery of the bonuses and 
  penalties and the end of every section in case you do not want to read the background.  
  We have also put the summery for those of you who already know the races and do not 
  want to read all of the way through the races again. 
   
  Human – bonuses: +3 to any attributes (no more than +2 in any one attribute) – penalties: 
  -3 to any attributes (no more than -2 in any one attribute) – max life 70 years – can wield 
  any weapons and wear any armor that can be afforded at character generation and has the 
  Strength and Dexterity to wield or wear. 
   
  Elf – bonuses: +2 Agility, +1 Strength – penalties: -2 Social, -1 Mental – max life 250 
  years – at generation and start of game must choose at least one of the following 
  weapons: axes, spears, or bows; non metal armors. 
   
  Dwarf – bonuses: +2 Stamina, +1 Strength – penalties: -1 Perception, -1 Social, -1 
  Agility – max life 250 years – at generation limited weapons must have at least one axe 
  or hammer; armor must be mostly metal. 
   
  Halfling – bonuses: +2 Social, +1 Agility – penalties: -3 Strength – max life 60 years – at 
  generation NO large or huge weapons 
   
  Minotaur – bonuses: +3 Strength – penalties: -2 Social, -1 Mental – max life 90 
  years…average life 35 years – at generation must select one large weapon. 
   
  Felis race – bonuses: +3 Agility – penalties: -1 Social, -2 Mental – max life 150 years – 
  at generation limited to slashing weapons.  No metal armor 
   
   
  HUMANS: 
   
   
  No race can remember its origin, but it is widely believed that humans are the 
  newest race of Arrowhead.  Humans are the most diverse of all the races.  There is no 
  truly typical Human.  Humans range from 3 feet tall to over 7 feet tall.  They weigh from 
  70 to well over 400 pounds as an adult.  The average Human will fall right around 6 feet 
  tall and somewhere between 150 and 250 pounds.  The skin color ranges from white to 
  ebony.  Humans like to live in towns or villages both for protection from the elements 
  and from the wild.  They also live in towns or villages to help one another and they have 
  made up social status within the village or town.  Normally there is a lord who controls a 
  region on the land; and all of the lords report to and deal with the king or queen who 
  controls the entire kingdom.  Most humans know their place and stay there for most of 
  their life although people have changed their status from time to time.  Humans prefer 
   
  1
  
  living in warmer climates and usually in the plains.  Humans will change the environment 
  to suit their fancy.  Humans have cut down forests and removed sections of mountains 
  just to clear the area.  Humans love magic because it makes their lives easier.   
   
  You can see the humans’ big cities from far away due to their large size and huge 
  buildings.  A lot of the big Human cities are shaped in such a way that the more powerful 
  mages can cast spells without drawing the much necessary circles.  This is for protection 
  from anyone trying to take the cities (for the Human race has made many enemies) as 
  well as for easy construction of buildings.  For those who have never seen a big Human 
  city, it is a sight to behold for some parts of the city never sleep.  There is always 
  something going on and there is lots of noise.  Most of the other races are glad to leave 
  and go back to their own ways after visiting a Human city.  Some humans love the quiet 
  of the out doors, so they will wander far from all civilization and make small villages in 
  the middle of nowhere to be with nature.  The more one tries to figure out the Human 
  race, the more you become puzzled.  For every Human is truly different from every other 
  Human, so if one is mean to you another one might still defend you.  Over all they do not 
  make any sense at all.   
   
  Humans have a mild life span.  The oldest humans live into their 70’s while most 
  humans will not see past 50 or 60 due to death or disease.  Most humans that go out into 
  the world and adventure will live into their 40’s, if they are lucky.  Humans are one of the 
  few races that can have twins.  Human females normally will have between 2 and 4 
  children over the course of their lives.  A Human child will have matured by the age of 
  21 or 25 although most will have to begin to work by the age of 15 to help bring in 
  money for his family. 
   
  Humans view magic as power.  When they cast spells, they cast power.  They 
  believe that they draw upon the sphere; so they would draw upon the power of the fire 
  sphere if they wanted to cast fire magic and so on. 
   
  Because humans are so diverse, their bonuses and penalties are broad.  The bonus 
  for being Human is you can put 1 extra point into 3 different main attributes or 2 points 
  into 1 attribute and 1 into another attribute.  The penalty for being Human is you subtract 
  1 point from 3 different main attributes or subtract 2 points from one attribute and 1 from 
  another attribute.  The 3 points you take out of a skill for your penalty cannot be the same 
  as the points you put in for the bonus.  Humans can use any weapon that is not race 
  specific and any armor which is also not race specific.  With most humans living in towns 
  or cities, the humans’ favored weapon is the sword.  They find it to be a nobleman’s 
  weapon and god knows everyone wants to be a noble.  So for a quick recap if you do not 
  want to read this section, here are the humans’ bonuses and penalties. 
   
  Human – bonuses: +3 to any attributes (no more than +2 in any one attribute) – penalties: 
  -3 to any attributes (no more than -2 in any one attribute) – max life 70 years – can wield 
  any weapons and wear any armor that can be afforded at generation and which he has the 
  Strength and Dexterity to wield or wear. 
   
   
  ELVES: 
   
  The Elves are a very simple and almost barbaric people (at least most humans 
  think so, but what do they know anyways…. really.)  Elves are considered to be one of 
   
  2
  
  the older races both in how long they live and how long they have been around, but no 
  one knows for sure.  Most of the other races think hey, they live for a long time; they 
  must have been around longer than us.  The Elves are friends to few and prefer to be left 
  alone.  The Elves live in the forests and on the plains mostly.  They build their cities out 
  of wood and up in the trees when they can; they hunt off the land and only kill what they 
  can use when they can.  The Elves are very tough and can survive much better than most 
  of the other races.  Contrary to popular belief, they not only have metal weapons, but they 
  make metal weapons as well.  Their villages are normally much smaller than Human 
  villages and house a lot less people.  When there are too many Elves in one city some of 
  the Elves branch off and make a new city somewhere else to keep from upsetting the 
  balance of nature; also when Elves have a disagreement big enough, the Elves that are 
  felt to be wrong often split from their old tribe or city to make a new tribe and city.  Elves 
  are very in touch with nature and the sprits.  They believe that there is a balance between 
  everything including life and death, and try to live their life in such a way as to not 
  unbalance the way of life.  With this said, when they use magic they believe they are 
  calling upon spirits of the different spheres, then they channel that through their casting 
  circle causing to do whatever the caster had in mind.  The Elves are very afraid of 
  offending the spirits, so most Elves will use magic sparingly to both not unbalance life 
  and so they do not upset the spirits.   
   
  Elves live for about 200 or 250 years, as far as the Elves claim anyways.  They 
  mature much slower than Humans.  Elves reach adulthood at around 100 years and until 
  then they are considered kids or young adults.  Elves are tall and slim but well built; their 
  height ranges from 5’ 8” to 6’ 6”.  On average they are slightly taller than Humans.  Elves 
  weigh in around 150 to 225 pounds, which is mostly muscle.  Elves range in color from 
  white to ebony, but most of them have tan skin.  When Elves turn 100 they are told to go 
  explore the world around them, and visit other tribes to see if other tribes have learned 
  anything new and helpful.  This happens for two reasons: it keeps the tribes kind of close 
  and after 100 years living in one spot, Elves are ready to see other things.  In the last 100 
  or so years, Elves have been exploring the rest of the world instead of seeing the other 
  tribes.  Elves do not have children until the time is right to bring a new person into the 
  world.  Most elf females will only have 2 or 3 children in her lifetime.  It is very difficult 
  for an elf female to get pregnant.  Elves believe that when they die that they become trees 
  to replace the air and trees that they chop down to regain the balance.  So naturally they 
  are very picky about which trees can and cannot be chopped down; for somehow they 
  know which trees are trees and which trees are their fallen Elves.  Elves are quick and 
  nimble, so they get a +2 to Agility; and because they work hard everyday using their 
  bodies the max they gain +1 to their Strength.  On the other hand, because they live in 
  isolation most of the time, they have not had very much contact with the outside world 
  (and when they do, they do not like most races because they have no respect to nature or 
  the balance) so they have a –2 to their Social attribute.  Also because they are not well 
  educated by most races standards they have a –1 to Mental.  Elves prefer to use the 
  weapons in battle that they use everyday, so at character generation and the start of the 
  game Elves must choose at least one of the following weapons: axes, spears, and bows.  
  Also Elves have not figured out how to make metal armor yet, so they cannot wear metal 
  armor; for it is uncomfortable for them and it slows them down to much.  
   
   
  3
  
  Elf – bonuses: + 2 Agility, +1 Strength – penalties: -2 Social, -1 Mental – max life 250 
  years – at character generation and the start of game you must choose at least one of the 
  following weapons: axes, spears, or bows; non metal armors. 
   
   
  DWARF: 
   
  Dwarfs are strong, stubborn, short, drinking, and workaholics.  The dwarfs live as 
  long as the Elves, about 200 to 250 years, but they mature quicker than Elves though 
  slower than Humans.  Dwarfs live in the mountains or close to the mountains, and are 
  master metal workers and tinkers.  Dwarfs love to invent new things almost as much as 
  they love to drink.  Most modern weapons and armor come from the dwarfs.  Now all 
  races have the ability and make their own weapons and armor, but when you want 
  something that is of the highest quality, see a dwarf.  Dwarfs are also good at business, at 
  least when it comes to selling weapons and armor.  Ok, that is the only business they are 
  good at, oh and selling ale.  Many of the other races send people, who are willing to deal 
  with the dwarfs, to learn how to improve their weapon and armor making skills.  The 
  dwarfs open their little arms to these people and treat them like their own (which are not 
  always a good thing) for a high price of course.  The dwarfs have realized that they can 
  make a fortune by teaching others how to make their stuff and very few can make them 
  as well as they can, so their trade is still intact.  Another benefit of this is it increases 
  people’s awareness of what the dwarfs can make.  As much as they work, they drink, but 
  they can hold the liquor better than almost any other race.  Dwarfs build vast cities 
  underground where entire clans live and work together.  They are always inventing new 
  things, some that work and some that do not; when they are not drinking or making 
  weapons, they are inventing something.  Dwarfs take carts and go to the main cities of 
  each race to sell their goods.  A lot of the cities have created “dwarf day,” the day when 
  dwarfs come to town.  A lot of people will save their entire week’s or month’s pay just to 
  buy a weapon or piece of armor from the dwarfs.  The only race’s cities they do not visit 
  are the Elves because Elves stated that they are not interested in what the dwarfs have to 
  sell.  Even the great Minotaurs will buy things from the dwarfs.  Other than selling and 
  making weapons and armor, dwarfs are always willing to help other races in need, for a 
  price that is.  It is not always money they are after; it not uncommon to see a dwarf 
  regiment among the armies of the world.  It has been rumored that some clans have 
  started helping out for free in order to help their reputation, in hopes people will buy 
  more from them or they have gone soft; either way, do not ask a dwarf for they will deny 
  it until their death.   
   
  Dwarfs are well trained, fierce fighters.  Dwarfs know where they need to be and 
  how to best defeat a foe.  To date, no race likes fighting the dwarf and often will go to 
  great lengths to avoid fights with them.  Dwarfs are also storytellers; if you ever meet a 
  dwarf in a bar, he always has a story to tell or is telling a story.  So unless you want to 
  hear the whole story, which can last for hours, do not ask a dwarf how he got that scar. 
   
  Dwarfs are a short race ranging from 3’ 6” to 4’ 9” and weigh from 200 to 350 
  pounds of almost sheer muscle.  Dwarfs range in color from white to ebony.  Like the 
  Elves, Dwarfs have a low birth rate and females only have 2 or 3 children during their 
  lifetime.  Like the Elves, they encourage all dwarfs at a cretin age to go out and see the 
  world; but unlike the Elves, the dwarfs view someone with no adventures to tell as a 
   
  4
  
  lower rank.  It keeps them from being bored; and on many occasions, dwarfs on 
  adventures have found new metals and caves to call their own. 
   
  Dwarfs view magic as power from elementals; so when they use magic, they are 
  calling the power of the elements to do their bidding.  Dwarfs prefer the enchanting 
  magic because they use it on their weapons and armors to make them better. 
   
  Dwarfs are a sturdy race and are hard to tire out, so they gain a +2 to Stamina, and 
  because they swing hammers all day long they have a +1 to Strength as well.  On the 
  down side, because of their time in mines where it is dark, they gain –1 to their 
  Perception; though they can see well in the dark.  They also gain a –1 in both Social and 
  Agility because they are loud and are not the most polite race; they will speak their mind 
  even if you do not want to hear it.  Because they are short and well built, they are not the 
  most agile race either.  Because they have worked with metals for so long, they prefer to 
  have metal armor and weapons.  At the start of the game and at character generation all 
  dwarfs must have mostly metal armor and weapons.  Dwarfs favor hammers and axes, so 
  at the start of the game and character generation a Dwarf must start with at least one 
  hammer or axe. 
   
  Dwarf – bonuses: +2 Stamina, +1 Strength – penalties: -1 Perception, -1 Social, -1 
  Agility – max life 250 years – at generation limited weapons must have at least one axe 
  or hammer; armor must be mostly metal. 
   
  HALFLING: 
   
  Halflings are a fun, easy going, no cares in the world type of race.  Halflings take 
  nothing for granted and live their lives to the fullest they can.  You can find Halflings in 
  either their small towns or cities or in Human towns and cities.  Halflings love the Human 
  towns and race because Halflings look like small Human children, so they can blend in 
  with the Humans; plus they love the social interactions of the humans.  A Halfling town 
  is quite small both in the size of the city and how many people live there.  From the time 
  a Halfling is mature enough to live on its own, they are encouraged to go out and see the 
  world before they die.  When a Halfling believes he or she has seen enough or has 
  learned something he must share with his fellow people he will return home to live out 
  their life or to share the new information.  Halflings are a very curious race and are 
  excellent gossipers; as well as being a good contact because they always seem to know 
  what is going on in the town in which they live.  Many Halflings have found good livings 
  as thieves because of how quick and nimble they are.  Plus, if they get caught, many of 
  them have learned to pull off the “I am an innocent child” routine, so many of them get 
  off quite easily.  Halflings make terrible workers because they only do things they want 
  to do, or if it presents them with a challenge.  As the years go by and they get older this 
  kind of goes out of their system, but never fully.  Halflings also make terrible slaves 
  because it takes more time finding them and get them to work than what is worth it.  The 
  Minotaurs will destroy Halfling towns along their warpath, but most of the time they will 
  simply ignore the Halflings because no Minotaur will gain honor by killing a Halfling.  
  This makes the Halflings happy, because they do not like being slaves and an all out war 
  is too boring for them to show up for. 
   
  Halflings grow crops and even though they do not like to work have found some 
  way to make some of the best tasting food.  Most of their crops are large and very healthy 
   
  5
  
  so they are able to survive by selling their crops to other races though most of their 
  money comes from humans because the humans are the ones who like it the most.  You 
  will almost never see a Halfling mad or upset; they always seem to be happy and with a 
  smile on their face.  Halflings only live to about 60, but they mature a little quicker than 
  humans.  By the age of 16 or 18 a Halfling is fully mature; most are out adventuring by 
  the age of 15 or so.  By the time a Halfling reaches 50 or 55 they are ready to return to 
  the town they were born in and help support the town until they die.  Because of this 
  Halflings have a very high birth rate, even greater than humans.  A female Halfling will 
  have between 6 or 7 children most of them near the end of her life.  Because of their short 
  life mixed with the fact that they do not return until late in their life’s, Halflings are raised 
  by the whole town; so no Halfling has just one mother and father they have a whole town 
  of mothers and fathers and brothers and sisters.  Each Halfling knows who the birth 
  mother and father is and holds a special place in their hearts and holds celebrations to 
  show how grateful they are for their birth. 
   
  Halflings range from 3’ to 4’ 6” and weigh from 60 to 120 pounds.  They only 
  live until about 60 years old.  Halflings range in color from white to ebony.  Halflings do 
  not think about where magic comes from, they just know it works and that is good 
  enough for them.  The few Halflings that do think about it often take the view of humans 
  that you are drawing power.  Many Halflings have died because they have not taken the 
  magic seriously enough.  Most Halflings do not use magic often; they usually get 
  someone else to do whatever magic they need.  When it is necessary they will use magic, 
  but they consider it more work then it is worth most of the time. 
   
  Halflings are a very social race and need to be around people and doing 
  something.  Because of this they gain +2 Social and +1 Agility for their quick and nimble 
  bodies.  On the other hand Halflings gain –3 to Strength because their bodies are small 
  and weak in comparison to the other races.  No Halfling may use any large weapon for 
  they are just too big for the Halflings.  The Halflings have their own “large weapons” 
  designed for them, but they cannot use any other races’ large weapons. 
   
  Halfling – bonuses: +2 Social, +1 Agility – penalty: -3 Strength – max life 60 years – at 
  generation NO large or huge weapons 
   
   
  MINOTAUR: 
   
  What can we say about the Minotaurs?  They are one of the strongest races.  The 
  Minotaurs hail from the far north, a land cut off from the rest of the lands by a huge 
  mountain range; this land was very fertile and good for farming.  Until the last 100 years 
  the Minotaurs were enslaved to the rest of the races that lived in that region.  The 
  Minotaurs were once a free and peaceful race many thousands of years ago.  Then many 
  of the other races starting showing up in that region because of the great farm land.  What 
  started out as peace with the Minotaurs soon turned into slavery; where the Minotaurs 
  had to do all of the farming and all of the things the other races did not want to do.  
  Things only got worse over time for the Minotaurs as the living and working conditions 
  got harsher and harsher.  Because the other races believed that might makes right and 
  they used the Minotaurs for both fighting for sport and to rage wars with one another; the 
  Minotaurs have been transformed over time into a brute force of highly skilled fighters.  
   
  6
  
  Finally, after many thousands of years, the Minotaurs had had enough; they banded 
  together to wipe out all of the other races in the region.  Though many of the people of 
  the other races fled and tried to make it through the mountains that separated the 
  Minotaurs’ land from the rest of the world; many would be hunted down or would die in 
  the mountains.  The few that did survive found a new life in a new land they had never 
  seen. 
   
  When the Minotaurs were done satisfying their blood thirst and finished killing 
  everyone, they made their own society based upon the things they had only dreamed of, 
  freedom.  After many years of being ruled harshly by many cruel kings, one great 
  Minotaur got up and banded the race and formed a new society one where right does not 
  make right but one with a council, so no one person could make the rules.  Knowing the 
  Minotaur stubbornness, this works, though it still takes time with some debates.  The 
  Minotaurs have not lost their new lust for life and fighting; they still hold ring matches, 
  and their heroes come from the ring.  Over the next few years, the Minotaurs built their 
  own cities and a lot of civil debates are still settled in the ring of combat.  One day a 
  scout came back reporting he had found a path through the mountains to a vast new land.  
  After many meetings among the cities, they finally decided that a group would go and see 
  what the new land was about and claim it in the name of the new, free, and strong 
  Minotaur race.  During that campaign they sacked many towns and word quickly spread.  
  More Minotaurs came down and more towns sacked.  Then they came to a Human city 
  like they have never seen before.  The very city seemed to be alive with magic; and 
  because the Minotaurs did not have much experience of this power, many Minotaurs lost 
  their lives before they retreated back to their own land.  For many years they licked their 
  wounds and stayed in their lands.  In the rest of the lands the raids had turned to a 
  memory and were soon forgotten.  The Minotaurs, having regrouped, wondered what to 
  do now.  They used magic in combat.  That is not honorable.  Many Minotaurs wanted to 
  send a huge army and kill everything that stood in their path; but many wanted to know 
  now if their “might make right” way of life was right.  What right did they have taking 
  over somebody else’s land?  A great and wise king brought the cities together and they 
  decided to send all those who were willing out into the new world to see if not only there 
  were honorable people within the other races, but also if their “right makes right” way of 
  life is indeed correct.  For the last 50 years or so, Minotaurs have come down to see the 
  world, each coming up with his or her own conclusion about the new world.  The cities 
  are still at odds about what to do.  At home the Minotaurs have been doing the same 
  things they have since they were freed, finding out who is the best fighter, which city is 
  better than the other, and might makes right. 
   
  Because of the long history of the Minotaurs, they have become bull headed (no 
  pun intended) and it is very hard to change their mind about something. 
   
  Minotaurs tower above most races, standing from 7 ½ feet tall to as high as 8 ½ 
  feet tall of all muscle; they weigh 600 to 800 pounds and when they charge with their 
  horns even the most battle hardened person starts to fear.  Minotaurs have brown, black, 
  and gray fur, though some very rare ones have white fur.  Minotaurs understand magic 
  and how it works because they have had to fight with it.  Though they prefer to use their 
  own strength, they will fight using magic without much of a second thought.  Minotaurs’ 
  average life span is 35 years due to the fact that they never turn down a fight and they 
  always have to prove their superiority.  Other races believe that Minotaurs could live 
   
  7
  
  until 90 years of age, but no race has seen one that old.  Minotaurs who can cast magic 
  have a special place in Minotaur society and are held with extra honor, having learned 
  how to capture nature itself and using it to smite their foes.  Minotaur females only have 
  one child at a time and will only have 3 or 4 over a lifetime, if they are fortunate. 
   
  Minotaurs are incredibly strong, they get +3 to their Strength; but on the down 
  side, they get –2 to their Social because they cannot interact with other races well, 
  because they think they are so far above them.  Minotaurs also get –1 to their Mental 
  because of how stubborn they are they have a difficult time learning anything except 
  combat.  Minotaurs favor large weapons that suit their Strength but can wield any 
  weapon.  Minotaurs have to have at least one large weapon at character creation.  
   
  Minotaur – bonus: +3 Strength – penalties: -2 Social, -1 Mental – max life 90 
  years…average life 35 years – at generation must select one large weapon. 
   
  FELIS RACE: 
   
  The Felis are one of the more unusual races of Arrowhead.  They are cat like from 
  head to toe with opposable hands.  The race ranges in color from white to ebony.  They 
  reach a towering 6 to 7 feet tall while weighing in at 200-400 pounds of slim but fit 
  muscle.  Like the Minotaurs, when you see one, you know what it is.  The race is very 
  curious by nature and this causes many of them to go to their doom.  The Felis race lives 
  in the deep jungles of Arrowhead, and, like the Elves, they have many different clans 
  who live in the jungle.  No one had seen the Felis race for many thousands of years, but 
  they reappeared in the last 50 or so years.  In recent times, more and more can be seen 
  roaming around the earth looking for the next new and exciting thing to do.  The Felis do 
  not talk about where they have been and will never tell anyone where they come from, 
  for the do not trust anyone with that kind of information.   
   
  The Felis have been in hiding for so long they cannot remember why they are in 
  solitude; so their are many arguments between the old and the young about going out and 
  seeing the world.  The old believe they need to follow the old ways; even though, other 
  than texts that ware left, no one knows why they do not talk to any other races.  The 
  young want change and want to view the world and see what there is to see so they can 
  improve their way of life.  Many tribes still want nothing to do with the outside world, 
  but more and more tribes are starting to open up and send the ones who are willing into 
  the world to see what has changed.  Most Felis will seem childlike in nature because they 
  want to know everything; and will spend hours inside a Human city just looking at 
  everything.  The Felis will try to find the biggest cities they can to explore and they find 
  the dwarfs amazing.   
   
  Like the Minotaurs, they feel that their word is their bond.  To break their word is 
  sending them to death; and many will take their own lives if they break their vow.  In 
  combat they are very fierce warriors, but off the field of battle they are often gentle to 
  many races as they try to find out about the world.  Unlike the Minotaurs, however, they 
  do not live for battle.  Often they try to avoid it if possible; but once put into a situation 
  where they have to fight, they will fight to the death.  Once a Felis makes friends with 
  someone or a party, they are friends for life, unless the person does something against 
  their code.  It takes longer for a Felis to trust someone, but once they do, they will do 
  almost anything that does not put them against their code, and will often get you out of 
   
  8
  
  harms way and take that blow for you even if it will kill the Felis.  The Felis race dislikes 
  the Minotaurs because they take slaves.  The Felis are not afraid of the Minotaurs in any 
  way really. 
   
  Felis are incredibly fast and very agile.  Their slim bodies make it easy for them 
  to jump and hitting one proves to be more than difficult.  The Felis life line is about 150 
  years and the females have 2 to 4 children at a time.  They are the only which can bear 
  multiple children at one time, and it is considered bad luck to carry just one child.  The 
  female however will go 10 years plus before having another set of kids.   
   
  The bonus for the Felis race is +3 to Agility.  They are very quick and very agile.  
  The penalties for the Felis race is –1 to Social because they want to know everything and 
  most people find that to be annoying, and – 2 to Mental because they have lived so far 
  away they do not know about the new ideas and inventions that have come out.  The Felis 
  race is restricted to using slashing weapons due to their agile and quick fighting style.  
  They cannot wear metal armor for they had never seen it until they left the jungle.  Most 
  will not wear metal armor anyways for they find it to restricting and gets in their way. 
   
  Felis – bonus: +3 Agility – penalties: -1 Social, -2 Mental – max life 150 years – 
  at generation weapons: slashing weapons.  No metal armor. 
   
  9
  
   
  CHARACTER GENERATION 
   
  Now that we have gone through the rules, let’s make a character.  Your character 
  is the backbone of any role-playing game.  You want to make sure that your character is 
  both fun for you to play and is within the realm of what your GM wants.  The first thing 
  you need to decide is what race is your character?  You should find a race that you want 
  to play and then have your GM ok it.  Each race (yes even the humans) will have its own 
  bonuses and penalties for attributes.  Each race may also be limited to what they may use 
  at the beginning of the game.  Later in the book we will have a more in depth look at each 
  race and their bonuses and penalties.  Here are the six races you can choose from along 
  with the racial bonuses and penalties:  
   
  Human – bonus: +3 to any attributes (no more than +2 in any one attribute) – penalty: -3 
  to any attributes (no more than -2 in any one attribute) – max life 70 years – can wield 
  any weapons and wear any armor that can be afforded at character generation and has the 
  Strength and Dexterity to wield or wear. 
   
  Elf – bonuses: + 2 Agility, +1 Strength – penalties: -2 Social, -1 Mental – max life 250 
  years – at generation and start of game must choose at least one of the following 
  weapons: axes, spears, or bows; non metal armors. 
   
  Dwarf – bonuses: +2 Stamina, +1 Strength – penalties: -1 Perception, -1 Social, -1 
  Agility – max life 250 years – at generation limited weapons must have at least one axe 
  or hammer; armor must be mostly metal. 
   
  Halfling – bonuses: +2 Social, +1 Agility – penalties: -3 Strength – max life 60 years – at 
  generation NO large or huge weapons 
   
  Minotaur – bonuses: +3 Strength – penalties: -2 Social, -1 Mental – max life 90 
  years…average life 35 years – at generation must select one large weapon. 
   
  Felis – bonuses: +3 Agility – penalties: -1 Social, -2 Mental – max life 150 years – at 
  generation limited to slashing weapons.  No metal armor 
   
   
  At character generation some races will be required to take certain types of 
  weapons.  After character generation, as your character grows and learns new things, you 
  may use any weapon or armor you have the skill or Strength or Agility for.  Each race has 
  unique attitude about life and all come from a different way of doing things; so each has 
  learned to do things certain ways.  Only by going out into the world that is not their own 
  can they learn new ways. 
  Now let’s talk about your attributes.  There are seven main attributes and fourteen 
  sub-attributes.  Each main attribute will be broken down into two sub-attributes.  The 
  main attribute covers what you can do with that attribute and the sub-attributes cover the 
  pieces that make up the main attribute.  Just because you have a high Strength does not 
  mean you can lift a lot or withstand damage from attacks.  Attributes tell the raw 
   
  10
  
  physical, mental, and magical ability the person has.  These attributes will tell you how 
  naturally capable you are at something and how much you can enhance that attribute with 
  a skill.  The sub-attribute is the specialized areas of that main attribute.  This allows you a 
  more in-depth look into your character and permits you to create a more personalized 
  character.  The sub-attributes are a way to have more control over the character making 
  process.  The higher the score, the better you will be at something.  All skills will have a 
  main or sub-attribute they will go under.  If you are trying to do something and have no 
  skill in it, we assume you have no experience in it and you will have to rely on your sub-
  attribute only.  When trying something you don’t have a skill in, then you simply get the 
  sub-attribute you are using plus the total of the 3 D12.  You still might do well or maybe 
  even better than if you had one or two points in a skill, but that is the way it goes.  
  Sometimes people are just better at some things.  Here is a list of the main attribute with 
  the sub-attribute under them.  This list also explains briefly what each attribute is for.   
  You get 45 points to put into the main attribute (how to put points into the sub-
  attributes will be explained later) no main attribute is to go above 10.  You must put at 
  least 2 points into every main attribute.  Magic is the only attribute that will be different.  
  Your magic main attribute will start at 4 instead of nothing.  All characters will start with 
  magic at 4, no matter what race.  You can add points just like you would with any other 
  attribute, but it still cannot go above 10.  The average attribute level of a Human is 3-5. 
   
  STRENGTH: How strong you are.  The higher the number, the more damage you can 
  cause in hand-to-hand, melee attacks, and bow attacks. 
   
  Might- How much you can lift overhead and such. 
   
  Body- How much damage or poison you can take.  The higher the Body, the more fit you 
  are and the more damage you can take. 
   
  AGILITY:  How nimble you are, both raw speed and balance. 
   
  Dexterity- How good your hand-eye coordination is.  
   
  Reflex- How fast you are off the start.  This is your body’s ability to react without 
  thinking.  Reflex will also be used to break ties on initiative. 
   
  MENTAL:  How much knowledge you have that comes from reading books and how 
  much you have learned from life experiences. 
   
  Intelligence- How book smart you are.  This covers all knowledge you get from things 
  such as books and schools.   
   
  Wisdom- How much common sense and street smarts you have.  This is the ability to 
  look at the experiences life has thrown at you and to become wiser from them. 
   
  PERCEPTION: How much you see or notice either on purpose with using your five 
  senses or unknowingly. 
   
  11
  
   
  Awareness- How well you noticed things with a part of or all of your senses. 
   
  Instincts- How well you trust yourself; is often called your sixth sense.  Somehow you 
  just know you are right. 
   
  SOCIAL:  How you treat others and how others like you as a person.  The Social 
  attribute also covers persuading people to your point of view. 
   
  Charm- How much people like being around you.  Also covers how well you act towards 
  others. 
   
  Manipulation- How well you can get others to see your point of view, even if that point 
  of view is wrong and you know it. 
   
  STAMINA: How you handle carrying heavy loads for a long time and how much pain 
  you can take before passing out. 
   
  Endurance- How long you can go while carrying heavy loads. 
   
  Resistance- How much pain you can take.  Resistance also covers Willpower  
   
  MAGIC: How skilled you are at casting spheres, both combat and non-combat. 
   
  Sorcery-Your ability to cast spontaneous spheres.  The higher the sub-attribute, the more 
  spontaneous spheres you can have. 
   
  Channeling-Your ability to cast predetermined spheres.  The higher the sub-attribute, the 
  more predetermined spheres you can have.  
   
   
  Before you put points into your sub-attributes modify your main attributes scores 
  with the bonuses and penalties from your race.  If you have not already chosen a race, do 
  so now before you put points into your sub-attributes.  At this point main attributes can 
  go above 10 ONLY with racial bonuses.  You cannot go below 2 in any main attribute 
  due to racial penalties. 
  So far you have only put points into the main attributes.  What about the sub-
  attributes you ask?  Well then let’s find out.  The sub-attributes add up together to make 
  the main total; therefore your main attribute has to equal the value of both sub-attributes.  
  Make sense?  No, not really?  Let me clear things up.  If you wanted a character that was 
  fast, then, no doubt, you have put 9 or 10 into your Agility attribute.  There are two sub-
  attributes under Agility: Dexterity and Reflex.  For ease, let’s say you put 10 points into 
  Agility for a score of 10.  Now you have 10 points to split up between the two sub-
  attributes.  Each sub-attribute has to be within 4 of each other, because both sub-attributes 
  relate to the main attribute so if you have a high Agility both sub-attributes will be fairly 
  good.  You have to put at least 1 point into every sub-attribute.  The max of any sub-
   
  12
  
  attribute is 10 because they can only be 4 apart from one another like if it were 10 and 6.  
  Magic is the only exception to the rule.  The magic sub-attributes do not have to within 4 
  of one another; in fact you can put all but one of your points into one or the other if you 
  want.  With magic, just because you can cast magic does not mean you ever learned how 
  to summon things.  Most people will have them pretty close to each other. 
   
  Example: 
  James decides he wants a fast character so he puts 10 points into Agility.  James now has 10 
  points to put into Dexterity and Reflex.  James decides he wants a character that has more 
  balance than speed so he puts 6 points in Dexterity and only 4 points into reflexes.  6 plus 4 
  equals 10 and both sub-attributes are within four of each other so this is legal.  Now James 
  repeats the same steps for the other main and sub-attributes. 
   
   
  So what does the main attribute do for you?  All of the charts go off of the main 
  attributes and there are checks that need you to use your main attribute. 
   
  You may be wondering where these charts we keep speaking of are.  Well I have 
  put all of the charts, as well as their explanations, in the rules section under a special 
  section.  I did this because not all of the charts have to deal with character generation, so I 
  put them in the rules.  Because the character generation sections right after the rules we 
  thought it would be a good place to put them.  
   
  In real life huge, strong guys are usually not very quick and very quick guys are 
  not really strong or big.  Now big guys can be quick and quick guys can be big but they 
  are not the super big or quick guys (if this does not make sense, read on; it will… I hope.)  
  To show this in the game world it has been decided that anyone with an Agility of 13 or 
  higher cannot have a Strength higher than 12.  Likewise if you have a Strength of 13 or 
  higher you cannot have an Agility above 12.  The super strong and super fast guys are 
  just at two different ends. 
   
  13
  
  SKILLS 
  Skills are very important in a game; they will determine what you are good at.  
  Attributes are what you are naturally good at.  It is how you are made and will always be 
  there.  Skills on the other hand you have to work at every day to become better.  If 
  attributes are what you are good at naturally, then skills are the narrowing of that 
  attribute.  Your skills will take you attributes further than they could ever go on their 
  own.  A skill is an activity you have picked up and trained in.  The more you train the 
  better you are, and the more honed you become.  You get 50 points to spread among all 
  of your skills. 
  There is always room go grow so at character creation no skill can go above 10. 
  The MAX for an attribute or skill is 16.  At level 16 in a skill you are at the top of your 
  game you cannot put any more points into that skill (ok you can but you are wasting 
  points at that point because you will never get above 16.)  This goes for all races.  Some 
  races will have an easier time getting to one max due to bonuses, but at the same time 
  they might have problems getting to another max due to their penalties.  Now some races 
  are going to have penalties to their score.  Just because your race has a penalty in an area 
  does NOT mean that the max you can get to drops.  No, the MAX for that attribute or 
  skill will still be 16. 
   
  14
  
   
  STRENGTH 
   
  MIGHT 
   
  Armor 
  Axes 
  Blacksmithing 
  Blunt Weapons 
  Flails 
  Hammers 
  Pole Arms 
  Spear 
  Staff 
  Weapon Smith 
   
  BODY 
   
  Intimidation 
  Shields 
   
  AGILITY 
   
  DEXTERITY 
   
  Bower/Fletcher 
  Cobbling 
  Leatherworking 
  Lock Picking 
  Pick Pocket 
  Riding, Land based 
  Rope Use 
  Seamstress 
  Sleight of Hand 
   
  REFLEXES 
   
  Acrobatics 
  Archery 
  Athletics 
  Charioteering 
  Crossbow 
  Dancing 
  Disarm Traps 
  Fencing 
  Hunting 
  Jousting 
  Juggling 
  Knives 
  Martial Arts 
  Riding, Airborne 
  Riding, Sea based 
  Seamanship 
  Stealth 
  Streetfighting 
  Swimming 
  Swords 
  Tightrope Walking 
  Throwing 
   
  MENTAL 
   
  INTELLIGENCE 
   
  Agriculture 
  Ancient History 
  Ancient Languages 
  Animal Handling 
  Appraising 
  Aquatic Lore 
  Botany 
  Carpentry 
  Chemistry 
  Decipher  
  Engineering 
  Fire-Building 
  Forgery 
  Genealogy 
  Geology 
  Healing 
  Heraldry 
  History 
  Law 
  Local History 
  Map Making 
  Metallurgy 
  Mining 
  Military Theory 
  Modern Languages 
  Mountaineering 
  Navigation 
  Scouting 
  Set Traps 
  Siege Weaponry 
  Sign Language  
  Toxicology 
   
  WISDOM 
   
  Anatomy 
  Animal Discipline 
  Animal Lore 
  Brewing 
  Cooking 
  Fishing 
  Gem Cutting 
  Guide 
  Interrogation 
  Investigation 
  Medicine 
  Meditation 
  Philosophy 
  Scouting 
  Sociology 
   
   
  PERCEPTION 
   
  AWARENESS 
   
  Lip Reading 
  Notice 
  Probing 
  Tracking 
   
  INSTINCTS 
  Camouflage 
   
  SOCIAL 
   
  CHARM 
   
  Artistic Ability 
  Etiquette 
  Leadership 
  Musical Instrument 
  Personal Grooming 
  Protocol 
  Oration 
  Singing 
   
  MANIPULATION 
   
  Acting 
  Bargaining 
  Disguise 
  Double Talk 
  Enticement 
  Gambling 
  Intimidation 
  Mimicry 
  Persuasion  
  Seduction  
   
  STAMINA 
   
  ENDURANCE 
   
  Survival 
   
  RESISTANCE 
   
  Resist Drugs 
  Resist Torture 
   
  MAGIC 
   
  SORCERY 
   
  Sorcery 
  Spell Craft 
   
  CHANNELING 
   
  Channeling 
   
  15
  
                              
   
   
  Strength 
   
  MIGHT 
   
  Armor- You knows how to make, design, and repair armor and shields of all types that are made 
  of metal. 
   
  Axes- You know how to use bladed, chopping weapons of all types such as axes and cleavers.  
  When you reach level 13 you may use 2 out of the 3 options out of your weapon style instead of 
  1 each turn.  At level 16 you may use all 3 each turn. 
   
  Blacksmithing- You can make, out of metal, the different tools needed for normal work in the 
  field or in town. 
   
  Blunt Weapons- You know how to use hafted blunt weapons such as clubs and maces.  When 
  you reach level 13 you may use 2 out of the 3 options out of your weapon style instead of 1 each 
  turn.  At level 16 you may use all 3 each turn. 
   
  Flails- You know how to use flails or nunchuks.  When you reach level 13 you may use 2 out of 
  the 3 options out of your weapon style instead of 1 each turn.  At level 16 you may use all 3 each 
  turn. 
   
  Hammer- You know how to use hammers of all types for combat.  When you reach level 13 you 
  may use 2 out of the 3 options out of your weapon style instead of 1 each turn.  At level 16 you 
  may use all 3 each turn. 
   
  Pole Arms- You know how to use a pole arm or long shafted weapon.  When you reach level 13 
  you may use 2 out of the 3 options out of your weapon style instead of 1 each turn.  At level 16 
  you may use all 3 each turn. 
   
  Spear- You know how to use long pointed weapons like spears and javelins.  When you reach 
  level 13 you may use 2 out of the 3 options out of your weapon style instead of 1 each turn.  At 
  level 16 you may use all 3 each turn. 
   
  Staff- You know how to use staffs of all types.  When you reach level 13 you may use 2 out of 
  the 3 options out of your weapon style instead of 1 each turn.  At level 16 you may use all 3 each 
  turn. 
   
  Weapon Smith- You know how to make and repair melee weapons.  This skill covers things like 
  swords and axes as well as spears and maces plus everything in-between.  If you are from a small 
  town your GM may limit you to things you have seen or have in you town. 
   
   
  16
  
                              
   
  BODY 
   
  Intimidation- You are using you body and body movements to make people scared of you.  You 
  also use intimidation to block people trying to use intimidation against you.  If you succeed the 
  intimidation roll then the people you were trying to intimidate receives -4 penalty to all actions 
  against you for 1 day. 
   
  Shields- You know how you use your shield for both defensive and offensive actions.  With this 
  skill you have learned to use your shield to attack and damage people as well as blocking people 
  and things.  
   
  Agility 
   
  DEXTERITY 
   
  Bower/Fletcher-You can make many different types of bows and arrows. 
   
  Cobbling-You know how repair all types of shoes, boots, and sandals.  You can also design your 
  own type of shoes, boots, and sandals. 
   
  Leatherworking-You have learned how to tan and treat leather to make clothing and other leather 
  objects.  You can also make all types of leather armor. 
   
  Lock Picking-You are skilled at opening locks using specialized or even makeshift tools.  Lock 
  picking takes time; it could take as little as 5 seconds to as much 10 to 15 minutes depending on 
  how good the lock is.  It is up to the GM how long it takes as well as how well you succeed.  
  You can try to pick a magical lock but the difficulty will be much higher.   
   
  Pick Pocket-You know the fine art of stealing small items from another person without being 
  noticed.  This requires the slightest touch and the quickest of hands.  And just to clarify, bashing 
  someone over the head and taking their stuff is not pick-pocketing. 
   
  Riding, Land- You can ride land-based animals as long as they were meant for riding and you 
  have the proper equipment for it. 
   
  Rope Use- You can use rope to tie something or someone up, or on a ship, or even to climb trees.  
  If it requires rope, chances are you can do it with this skill. 
   
  Seamstress-You can design and sew clothing including embroidery and ornamental work.  You 
  can fix your clothes when they get run through in battle, well ok maybe some of your clothes.  
  You cannot fix armor unless it is just leather and not studded leather. 
   
   
  17
  
                              
  Sleight of Hand-You know how to do optical illusions and distract people with your hands.  You 
  cannot pick someone pocket with this skill, but if you are caught you can try to “make it 
  disappear” by palming it in plain sight. 
   
  REFLEXES 
   
  Acrobatics- You know how to do various acrobatic and gymnastic maneuvers such as tumbling 
  and tight rope walking.  You can also avoid damage from short falls. 
   
  Archery- You know how to use bows of all types.  This skill does not cover crossbows.  When 
  you reach level 13 you may use 2 out of the 3 options out of your weapon style instead of 1 each 
  turn.  At level 16 you may use all 3 each turn. 
   
  Athletics- You have learned how to run, lift, jump, and swim better than a normal person.  You 
  have trained your body to be better and push it to the max when performing certain feats. 
   
  Charioteering- You can drive a chariot.  Most chariots are used in war and not for normal 
  transportation. 
   
  Crossbow- You know how to use all types of crossbows. 
   
  Dancing- You know the many varieties of dance of court and others. 
   
  Disarm Traps- You know how to disarm an active trap once seen.  You also know how to 
  determine if a trap is active or not. 
   
  Fencing- You know the art of fencing with lightweight thrusting and cutting swords such as 
  rapiers.  This is a style that nobles use in the Human society to settle differences in an honorable 
  way. 
   
  Hunting- You can track and bring down animals and even people in the wilderness.  You use 
  colors that match the surroundings and have learned when and how to move in the wilderness to 
  bring down animals.  This skill is used to get food so you do not starve when away from your 
  city. 
   
  Joust- You can use lances and other long weapons from horseback. 
   
  Juggling-You know how to juggle multiple things in the air at once.   
   
  Knives- You know how to use short bladed weapons of all types.  When you reach level 13 you 
  may use 2 out of the 3 options out of your weapon style instead of 1 each turn.  At level 16 you 
  may use all 3 each turn. 
   
  Martial Arts-You know and are skilled in the techniques of unarmed combat.  This is different 
  than Streetfighting With martial arts you have been taught by someone and have trained many 
   
  18
  
                              
  hours doing routines.  If you find out the pattern to a martial art style then it becomes easier to 
  block it. 
   
  Riding, Airborne- You can ride airborne animals as long as they were meant for riding and you 
  have the proper equipment for it. 
   
  Riding, Sea- You can ride sea animals as long as they were meant for riding and you have the 
  proper equipment for it. 
   
  Seamanship- You are familiar and comfortable with the operation of waterborne vessels and do 
  not mind being at sea.  You can do everything from trimming the sails to steering the ship.  The 
  only thing you cannot do on a ship with this skill is navigating or cook (both have other skills 
  covering them.)  You make a good part of any boat crew. 
   
  Stealth- You have the ability to move quietly without making noise.  You can try to sneak past 
  people or follow people without being noticed with Stealth. 
   
  Streetfighting- You know how to Brawl and makeshift fighting.  Streetfighting is using 
  everything you have at the time to win.  A street fighter may use martial arts moves, but is not 
  trained in any one style; they just do what makes sense to them and what works for them. 
   
  Swimming- You know how to swim beyond the dog paddle.  Every person can dog paddle, but 
  you can swim fast and well for a long period of time. 
   
  Swords- You know how to use long bladed weapons like broadswords and scimitars.  When you 
  reach level 13 you may use 2 out of the 3 options out of your weapon style instead of 1 each turn.  
  At level 16 you may use all 3 each turn. 
   
  Tightrope Walking- You can walk across narrow ropes or beams with great skill and balance.  
  When tightrope walking, you are walking along very thin ropes or boards hoping your balance is 
  better than gravity. 
   
  Throwing-You know how to use throwing weapons or weapons meant to be used by throwing 
  them and get close to your target or hit your target. 
   
   
   
  Mental 
   
  INTELLIGENCE 
   
  Agriculture- You know how to perform basic farming tasks.  This includes planting, harvesting, 
  and storing crops.  You could also tend to animals, butcher animals, and other farming chores. 
   
  Ancient History- You know the legends, lore, and history of some ancient time and place.  This 
  skill can be taken up to six times, one for each race. 
   
  19
  
                              
   
  Ancient Languages- You knows a difficult and obscure tongue.  Each race has an old tongue that 
  is no longer spoken because it is out dated or thousands of years old.  Each time you take this 
  skill you must specify which race’s ancient language you speak.   
   
  Animal Handling- You know how to handle and calm animals.  Something about how you speak 
  to the animal causes them to calm down when you are around. 
   
  Appraising- You can estimate the value of antiques, art, cut gems, and jewelry and things of that 
  nature. 
   
  Aquatic Lore- You know the differences in the life forms, which inhabit the aquatic 
  environments of the world.  So you know what to try to catch and what not to catch as well as 
  what parts of the ocean to stay out of.  You have realized the in the oceans and lakes you are a 
  small fish and many things that lurk in the deep can sallow you whole. 
   
  Botany- You understand how plants.  You know the different types of plants including which 
  ones are dangerous and which ones are useful. 
   
  Carpentry- You know the art of woodworking and can perform jobs like building houses; you 
  also know the correct tools needed to work with wood and can build things like tables and chairs 
  out of wood. 
   
  Chemistry- You understand how chemicals, acids, and bases work together to make compounds, 
  without the use of magic. 
   
  Decipher- You know how to figure out codes and puzzles, which involve words and numbers. 
   
  Engineering- You understand the physics of the world and know how to build things like 
  buildings and tools without the use of magic. 
   
  Fire Building- You know how to build a fire without a tinderbox.  With Fire Building you can 
  build a smokeless fire so as not to give your position away. 
   
  Genealogy- You know how to trace your family down from the ages.  A lot of nobles have this 
  skill and can recite from memory their whole family tree. 
   
  Geology- You understand the different types of rocks and earth and how old they are.  You can 
  also makes guesses at how far underground you are. 
   
  Healing- You know how to use natural plants and remedies medicines and the basic principles of 
  first aid.  Everything you use with the healing skill is from plants or animals. 
   
  Heraldry- The player can identify different crests and symbols that denote different persons or 
  groups and even guilds. 
   
   
  20
  
                              
  History- You have made an attempt to understand the major events and developments that have 
  happened world, from the time that things were written down until now.  Unlike local history, 
  with this skill you know not only about your race but all of the races in the world (at least what 
  they have written.)  You have made it your goal to find out new information everywhere you 
  stop. 
   
  Law- You understand what the laws of the lands you live in and those of nearby lands as long as 
  they are of the same race.  Each race has its own laws, so to know another race’s laws you will 
  have to take law another time for each race whose laws you want to know. 
   
  Local History- You are a fount of information about the history of some small region like a large 
  county.  You know all of the major facts that have happened in the last 100 years or so and bore 
  all of your friends to death by telling them things they never really wanted to know. 
   
  Map Making- You know how to make maps; as well as understand how to read a map. 
   
  Metallurgy- You understand what makes metals metal and know the differences between all of 
  the metals.  You can also attempt to make a new metal or alloy from combining 2 or more metals 
  together in the correct proportions.  This skill also allows you to extract metal from base ore.  All 
  dwarfs must take this skill at the start of the game.  It only has to be at level 1, but they still have 
  to take it. 
   
  Mining- You can mine ore and oil out of the ground.   
   
  Military Theory- You have the knowledge of how a military works as well as strategies best used 
  for your opponents.  You know where and how to place your troops including where to place the 
  mages. 
   
  Modern Languages- You have learned how to speak another language (other than your own) of 
  the known world.  You can speak the language of your own race automatically (assuming you 
  are not mute.)  This skill is for learning another race’s language. 
   
  Mountaineering- You can make difficult and dangerous climbs up steep mountains and find 
  paths through the mountains.  You also know what equipment you will need to make the journey 
  safely.  
   
  Navigation- You can plot courses, determine location, and read maps, so you can get to where 
  you are going without getting lost.  You can also use the stars to guide you.  You can use 
  navigation on both land and water. 
   
  Siege Weaponry- You know how to construct, load, and fire the many different types of siege 
  weapons such as catapults.  You do not know how to design a siege weapon, but you do know 
  how to build one if all of the parts are there for you. 
   
  Sign Language- You understand non-verbal forms of communication like sign language.  Some 
  races will have different sign language for different things but most are very similar.  Guilds like 
   
  21
  
                              
  to teach this to its members so they can talk quietly and quickly to one another when out.  Each 
  guild will have different signs that means different things.  The sign language the guilds use is 
  very simple most of the time so it can be done quickly. 
   
  Toxicology- You understands the workings of drugs and poisons on living creatures.  You can 
  make, treat, or administer medicines and poisons. 
   
  WISDOM 
   
  Anatomy- You understand the physical structure of humans and other races.  You know where to 
  strike to cause the most pain and damage.  In non-combat this skill would help when trying to fix 
  someone who is hurt without the use of magic. 
   
  Animal Discipline- You know how to train animals to perform tricks or break an animal for what 
  you need it to do.   
   
  Animal Lore- You can observe the actions or habitat of an animal and interpret what is going on. 
   
  Brewing- You know how to brew alcoholic beverages and make them taste good.  We all hope 
  anyways. 
   
  Cooking- You can cook and cook well.  You are a most welcomed member of any party and 
  could make a living, if you wanted, cooking for a living. 
   
  Fishing- You know how to use wire and a hook or a pole to fish. 
   
  Forward Observer- You know how to place artillery so they will be most effective and do the 
  most damage. 
   
  Gem Cutting- You have the ability to finish the rough gems.  You can also cut and set gems to 
  make jewelry, as well as identify how much a gem is worth by looking at it. 
   
  Guide- You know how to get around cities, even if you are not from that city.  You know by the 
  way buildings are placed where things are located and how to find what you need from the city. 
   
  Investigation- You are a good detective.  You can find missing persons, track down stolen goods, 
  etc. better than most people.  By using your smarts mixed with common sense you can deduce 
  what happened or where somebody is with reasonable success.   
   
  Medicine- You have learned to diagnose and treat injuries and disease.  You can treat people 
  with first aid and other practices that do not require surgery.  You cannot perform any type of 
  surgery with this skill, but you can stop blood loss and even regain hit points when done right. 
   
  Meditation- You can calm your self down and think clearly and view things from a different 
  perspective.  Meditation takes many hours to complete, but when you are done you often can 
  find answers you could not have find before due to your calm and clear state of mind.  In battle it 
   
  22
  
                              
  has been rumored that some people have meditated before a battle and have lost all fear and can 
  ignore wounds received (at least until they died.) 
   
  Philosophy- You understand the need for rational and logical thought and actions that are based 
  in reality.  You have mastered the art of taking all of the fun out of things and putting logic in 
  front of everything.   
   
  Scouting- You know how to scout ahead and learn of others movements and position.   
   
   
  Perception 
   
  AWARENESS 
   
  Lip Reading- You have the ability to determine what is being said by those you cannot hear just 
  by watching their lips move.  You have to be able to see their lips move in order for this skill to 
  work. 
   
  Notice- This skill is for when you need to see, notice, hear, or otherwise need to be aware of 
  something.    
   
  Probing- You have studied people, how the act and move.  You can tell how someone feels or 
  what they are really trying to say by their behavior and body language. 
   
  Tracking- You know how to track the trail of creatures and people across most types of terrain.  
  You use tracking to follow a creature or people that are out of sight by footprints and paths they 
  make.  This skill will not work as well in cities because there is nothing to follow like footprints. 
   
   
  INSTINCTS 
   
  Camouflage- You know how to hide yourself and other people and objects from view making it 
  hard to find you when you are in a natural terrain. 
   
   
   
  Social 
   
  CHARM 
   
  Artistic Ability- You are a naturally good at various forms of art.  This includes music and art. 
   
  Etiquette- You know how to act and what to say and what not to say when talking to important 
  people or at social functions.  This skill can be taken multiple times, once for each race, that way 
  you do not say something wrong to someone of another race. 
   
  23
  
                              
   
  Leadership- You are in charge and you know how to get things done.  You are a natural leader 
  are know what to say and when to say it.  Other people will follow out of respect and think you 
  have the answers. 
   
  Musical Instrument- You know how to compose and play a variety of musical instruments, 
  although normally you will only carry, which will be your favorite instrument most often.  At a 
  high enough level, the opposite sex will love you and the same sex will hate you.  As with the 
  singing skill, when done right you can gain free food, drink, and sometimes even company for 
  the night. 
   
  Personal Grooming- You have the gift to know how to properly groom yourself and others to 
  look the best you can.  Remember when using this skill, what one person finds attractive another 
  might not.  This skill will only work for your race because like people, different races find 
  different looks attractive. 
   
  Protocol- You knows how act in social groups and which social groups to act what way in.  With 
  protocol you have also learned how to act at different races’ events as well.  They still might not 
  like you, but you will be the best mannered person that everyone hates. 
   
  Oration- You know what to say and how to give powerful speeches and move a crowd into 
  action for either good or bad.  The nickname for this skill in this game is “mob control”. 
   
  Singing- You are an accomplished singer and can entertain others with ease.  Your voice if you 
  sing the right songs can get you a room to sleep in, some warm food, and maybe even some 
  company for the night. 
   
  MANIPULATION 
   
  Acting- You know how to put on an act to make someone think you are someone you are not.  
  This can be used to things like plays or for trying to get past people you do not want to know that 
  you are you. 
   
  Bargaining- You know how to make deals to get goods and services for lower price than normal. 
   
  Disguise- You are trained in the art of disguise.  You have the ability to look like any type of 
  person about the same age and size of himself, as long as you have the right disguises and make 
  your dice rolls. 
   
  Double Talk- You know how to fast-talk yourself out of a situation.  When things get hot, you 
  can calm things down by using your head.  
   
  Enticement- You know how to charm people to get them to do what you want.  With enticement 
  you know what to say and how to move to get people of the opposite sex or the same sex to do 
  something for you without really doing anything. 
   
   
  24
  
                              
  Forgery- You have the ability to create duplicates of documents and to detect forgeries created 
  by other people.  You can also make new documents by faking the handwriting of someone else. 
   
  Gambling- You are skilled at games of chance like dice and card games. 
   
  Interrogation- You know how to ask the right questions to find out if someone knows anything 
  on the subject.  This skill also covers torturing someone for information or just torturing 
  someone for fun, if that is how you get your jollies.   
   
  Intimidation- You are using words and peoples fears to make people scared of you.  You also use 
  intimidation to block people trying to use intimidation against you.  If you succeed the 
  intimidation roll then the people you were trying to intimidate receives -4 penalty to all actions 
  against you for 1 day.   
   
  Mimicry- You have the ability to mimic the sounds of wild animals, the wind or even other 
  people.  You also have learned to throw your voice so it sounds like it is coming from 
  somewhere else. 
   
  Persuasion- You know the fine art of brainwashing someone or a whole crowd; and you can use 
  propaganda for your agenda.   
   
  Seduction- You know what to say and how to move to attract the opposite sex.  You use both 
  words and body language to get the opposite sex to do what you want. 
   
  Stamina 
   
  ENDURANCE 
   
  Survival- You have the basic knowledge of the wilderness and can survive off the land for many 
  weeks if not indefinitely.  You know what to eat, what not to eat, and where to get water; among 
  other things you can do with this skill. 
   
  RESISTANCE 
   
  Resist Drugs- You are especially resilient towards the effects of simple drugs, alcohol, and even 
  more complex drugs such as mind control drugs.   
   
  Resist Torture- You are especially resistant to interrogation and torture.  You can deal with the 
  pain of torture both psychologically and physically.  You are either an interrogator’s worst 
  nightmare or his greatest project; you will not give that information up.  It is both a blessing and 
  a curse. 
   
   
   
  25
  
                              
  MAGIC 
   
  SORCERY 
   
  Sorcery- You have trained yourself to harness the power of magic and attempt to cast it.  Your 
  training can be through one of the many guilds throughout the world or you have chanced it on 
  your own (You have some big balls) and at least understand the basics.  Be warned magic is not 
  something you just dabble in, if you do not know what you are doing, DON’T do it.  More mages 
  have died doing something they should not have.  There you have been warned.  In short words 
  you can use the skill to cast, yep you guessed it Sorcery spheres.  Your prize for knowing is yep 
  not sucking as bad.  Good for you. 
   
  Spell Craft- You know the different forms and rites of spell casting.  You also have a chance to 
  recognize magical or magically endowed constructs.  This skill does not allow the player to cast 
  spells; you just have a chance to know what spheres are being cast nearby.  You cannot know 
  what the exact spell is, just what it is made from. 
   
   
  CHANNELING 
   
  Channeling- This is the skill that lets you have skill points in Channeling spheres so you do not 
  suck as bad. 
   
   
  26
  
                              
  ODDBALL SECTION 
   
  It is time to move on to your character’s Oddball section.  There are a several parts to the 
  Oddball section.  Each section is designed to flesh out your character by picking up some 
  advantages, disadvantages, and some odds and ends.  Some of the Oddball things are good and 
  some are bad.  We are have broken each Oddball section into different parts and then tell you 
  how many points you can spend in each group to increase ease of character creation.  Please keep 
  in mind you need to pick only the ones that fit your character and not just on the bonus you 
  would get from it.  At the end of this entire section we suggest the GM looks at all characters to 
  make sure they fit in his game.  GM’S HAVE THE FINAL SAY ON WHAT CAN AND 
  CANNOT BE USED.  
   
  STATUS 
  The first Oddball is the life section.  Where did you come from and what are you doing 
  now.  Here you will pick out what status you belong into and how much money you will get at 
  the start.  You may choose only one status.  This is the status you will began game with, but it 
  may well change by the end.  When you choose a status you must take the advantage and 
  disadvantage that goes with it.  Write this down on the character sheet in the right spot.  You will 
  be able to choose more advantages and disadvantages later but right now you must take these.  
  Keep in mind that it is written like you the character are the status, when it could be that you are 
  the son or daughter of a noble, or merchant, or any other status.  There are 12 statuses so you roll 
  1D12 to find your status in life, unless you and the GM have agreed on one.  THIS IS JUST A 
  THOUGHT.  PLEASE GIVE US INPUT ON IF YOU LIKE THIS IDEA OR NOT. 
   
  Royalty:  You are on top of the world.  Either you or your family controls at least one kingdom.  
  Everyone in this kingdom looks to your family for what to do and pay taxes to you.  As long as 
  you are in your kingdom you have power and everybody knows who you are.  You also have an 
  almost limitless supply of money.  You need to be careful when you step out of your kingdom or 
  run from the safety of the palace.  Within your kingdom you cannot hide, your profile is simply 
  too high.  In surrounding kingdoms, it will be a difficult TN to disguise your self. 
  Starting gold: 1100 pieces 
  Advantage: Resources 
  Disadvantage: Well-known 
   
  Distant Royalty: Well you are the bottom of the top world.  You were born royalty but that is as 
  far as the good life goes.  You were born so far behind a long list of others you will never 
  become king (unless the others some how die.)  You are 4th or more in line to become king.  You 
  get to live in the castle and get the royalty but in your own family and the kingdom it is known 
  you will not be king. 
  Starting gold: 1000 pieces 
  Advantage: Charming 
  Disadvantage: Unknown   
   
  Nobility:  You are one step down from royalty.  You or your family has power among most 
  people; you have a very comfortable place to live.  You are invited to all of the major parties and 
  are a mover and shaker in high society.  You might be close to the top of the world, just 
   
  27
  
                              
  remember the people who got you there or else you might lose your head.  It will be a very 
  difficult TN for you to disguise your self with in the kingdom you live in for almost everyone 
  knows who you are.  It will be a hard difficulty for the surrounding kingdoms. 
  Starting gold: 900 pieces 
  Advantage: Retainer 
  Disadvantage: Sheltered   
   
  Landowner: Nobility does not like you and everybody else thinks you are a noble.  The truth is 
  you are someone in between.  You are not a noble but you are not a peasant either.  You have a 
  lot of land that you own and are well off money wise.  You have no real power but do have lots 
  of people or slaves working for you on your lands.  You have a pretty easy life. 
  Starting gold: 850 pieces 
  Advantage: Optimist 
  Disadvantage: Disliked  
   
  High-end Merchant:  Well you are not nobility, but you are not a peasant either; you are 
  middleclass.  You or your family has a nice living; you have nice stuff, and live in the nicer end 
  of town.  The nobles think you are below them and the peasants respect you because you are 
  making it in the world. 
  Starting gold: 800 pieces 
  Advantage: Allies 
  Disadvantage: Honor Bound 
   
  Low-end Merchant:  You are one step above peasant, but not much better off.  You or your 
  family is basically a peasant with a little class.  You have a cart to peddle your wares from and 
  spend most of your time going from town to town to find the best deals in the area.  You own a 
  house, but it is not much.  You are thankful that your home has not been robbed or run over by 
  beggars when you get back from your trips. 
  Starting gold: 700 pieces 
  Advantage: Silver Tongue 
  Disadvantage: Secret  
   
  Criminal:  You have turned to a life of crime.  You may enjoy it; you could be forced to do it; it 
  might be you were framed so you thought “what the hell;” or maybe it is simply better than your 
  past.  For whatever the reason, you run on the opposite side of the law.  You take your chances 
  with whatever you do that is illegal.  Whoever said crime does not pay has never been a criminal, 
  because you have your own place to stay and some nice stuff, but you work harder that almost 
  anyone else. 
  Starting gold: 600 pieces 
  Advantage: Streetwise 
  Disadvantage: Dark Secret   
   
  Peasant:  Well this is it, you are in hell.  You work long, long hours and sleep very little, and 
  your lord gets all the credit.  Then you pay taxes on the little you make.  To top it all off nobody 
  likes you or appreciates you, but at least you are not a slave right?  You might have a farm you 
  are trying to pay off, but more likely you or your family works for someone else from daybreak 
   
  28
  
                              
  till sundown.  You live the worst part of town where crime runs amuck and disease is more 
  common than money. 
  Starting gold: 500 pieces 
  Advantage: Toughness 
  Disadvantage: Pessimist  
   
  Exiled noble:  You and/or your family have been exiled from your homeland.  You have fallen 
  from the grace of your queen or king.  You have done something or have been framed for 
  something to get you kicked out and you cannot return.  You have fled to another kingdom in 
  order to try to make a living; all the while swearing you will get what is rightfully yours back.  
  You have no land, power, and have very little money left. 
  Starting gold: 500 pieces 
  Advantage: Hard to Kill 
  Disadvantage: Death Secret   
   
  Unguilded: You are close to the bottom of the social circle.  For whatever the reason you have 
  been labeled as having no guild.  It might be because you have not chosen one or because you 
  have been thrown out of one.  Word has been sent around town and you are not trusted and it is 
  hard for you to find a job.  Even if you find a guild and join one you still have a hard time getting 
  over your past. 
  Starting gold: 300 pieces 
  Advantage: Quick Eye 
  Disadvantage:  Sleazy  
   
   
  Vagabond:  You have no home or you ran away from home.  You move from town to town, 
  trying to make enough to get by.  You normally have enough gold or sliver to get a bite to eat 
  and somewhere to sleep.  You could be a wandering poet or maybe a sword for hire. 
  Starting gold: 300 pieces 
  Advantage: Well Traveled 
  Disadvantage: Outcast   
   
  Slave:  You are at the very bottom of the social circles.  The only way to go from here is up.  For 
  whatever the reason you or your family has been captured or been sold into slavery.  You might 
  have been born into slavery.  Each slave owner is different, but most of them do not do anything 
  except the minimum for you unless you bring in money for them, like being a gladiator who wins 
  regularly.  You do work and chores for someone else and get basically nothing for it.  You are 
  someone else’s property and they will do what they will with you. 
  Starting gold: You start with no gold, but every basic necessity is provided for you. 
  Advantage: Average Joe 
  Disadvantage: Branded   
   
  29
  
                              
  FINISHING TOUCHES 
   
  At this point have your GM take a look at you sheet to make sure your character is what 
  he wants and fits well in his campaign.  Your GM has the final say on what Oddball things he 
  will allow. 
   
  After you are done with the Oddball section you need to choose a weapon style.  
  Weapons styles are explained in the rules section of the game.  In short, every person chooses 
  one weapon style for the start of the game.  Each weapon style allows you to choose one of three 
  things you can do each turn.  There are 5 different weapon styles to choose from.  Here is a quick 
  list of what they are and what they do. 
   
  Single Weapon style: 
  You gain bonuses when using just one weapon.  This style does not cover great weapons. 
   
  Two Weapon style: 
  You gain bonuses when using one weapon in each hand. 
   
  Weapon and Shield style: 
  You gain bonuses when using a weapon in one hand and a shield in the other. 
   
  Two-Handed Weapon style: 
  You gain bonuses when using great weapons.  These are weapons you have to use 2 hands to 
  wield. 
   
  Bow Weapon style: 
  You gain bonuses when using a bow. 
   
   
  Now it is time to choose what spheres of magic you want to take.  There are two types of 
  magic spheres, Sorcery and Channeling.  Here is a chart to show you how many of each type you 
  get. 
   
  Sorcery Spheres 
   
  Channeling Spheres 
  1 
  1  
  1
  1 
  2 
  2  
  2
  1 
  3 
  3  
  3
  2 
  4 
  4  
  4
  3 
  5 
  5  
  5
  4 
  6 
  5  
  6
  5 
  7 
  6  
  7
  5 
  8 
  7  
  8
  6 
  9 
  7  
  9
  7 
  10 
  8  
  10
  8 
   
   
  30
  
                              
  Sorcery spheres follow your Sorcery sub-attribute.  Whatever number you have in your Sorcery 
  is the number on the left and the number on the right is how many Sorcery spheres you get.  The 
  Channeling magic follows your Channeling sub attribute.  The number you have for Channeling 
  is on the left and the number of Channeling spheres you get is on the right.  The list of spheres is 
  in the magic section. 
   
  One of the most important things to think about is what guild do you belong to?  A guild 
  is very important to have; they are your life line.  Not only will a guild give you a job, but they 
  also pay your taxes; give you shelter when needed; and keep you from harm if someone says 
  something bad about you.  A guild is like your family and to be a part of one is one of the 
  greatest things in Human society.  If you are a Human, you should have a guild; and if you are 
  from another race, than you should look into joining one for they will be handy around a Human 
  city. 
   
  At this point of character creation you need to fill out your bonuses and penalties in your 
  main attribute.  The charts are just before the character generation section.  There is one chart for 
  each of your main attributes and will help out in certain areas of your characters life. 
  Your character is almost done.  All you need now is a name; some weapons and 
  equipment; and a background.  Most of this, besides the background, will go quickly.  The player 
  should work with the GM to come up with a background; that way both you and the GM have an 
  idea about who the character is and how he will act.  
   We have decided not to add classes, groups, or the like to GUILDS.  When you choose 
  to be a part of a guild then you are a part of a group.  People of your guild will have similar 
  abilities but not the exact same.  There is no requirement for any guild (stat or attribute wise) 
  unless the person running the guild sets one.  A person who makes a combat character can make 
  a mage and a mage can make a combat character.  You make whatever you want by choosing 
  your skills according to how you see your character and what you think they should have.  There 
  will be no restriction on what armor a person can wear or what weapon they can use, besides the 
  minimum Strength or Agility required to wearing or use them, and racial limits at the beginning 
  of the game.  There are some templates you can look at to get some ideas for running a character, 
  and they can be used.  We just find it is more fun to make and play your own character. 
  So you got all that.  Well if you did not get that on the next page is a simple chart to 
  follow.  If any of the quick generation does not make sense, simply go back to that section and 
  reread.  Now move on to the Guild and Reputation section for the last part of character creation. 
   
  31
  
                              
  QUICK CHARACTER GENERATION 
   
  - Choose a race.   
   
  - Spend 45 points among the 7 main attributes.  No main attribute above 10 and at least 2 points 
  in every main attribute.  Magic starts at 4 for all races.  Page  
   
  - Add or subtract racial bonuses or penalties.  Main attribute can go above 10 with racial 
  bonuses.  No main attribute can go below 2 due to penalties.  Page 
   
  - Spend points in sub-attributes.  Take your score of your main attributes and split them among 
  the 2 sub-attributes.  Page  
   
  - Write down all of the skills you want then spend 50 points among the skills you have chosen.  
  No skill can go above 10.  Pages  
    
  - Choose one Status from Oddball section.  Pages  
   
  - Choose 3 Advantages from the Oddball section.  Pages  
   
  - Choose 3 Disadvantages from the Oddball section.  Pages  
   
  - Choose 3 Odds and Ends from the Oddball section.  Page  
   
  - Choose 1 Weapon style.  Pages  
   
  - Choose a guild if you want one.  Page 
   
  - Choose your starting spheres 
   
  - Find and apply bonuses and penalties and put them in the right box next to the right main 
  attribute (charts located in the section right above character generation.) 
   
  - Spend starting money on weapons, armor, and equipment 
   
  - Choose a name. 
   
  - Come up with a background for your character. 
   
  -Move on to Guild and Reputation for guild and the rest of character creation. 
   
   
  32
  
  Guild And Reputation 
   
  Guilds! The fantasy of every child who dreams of something better.  In Council Bluffs 
  the word guild is wrapped around with mystery and danger.  The people in Council Bluffs have 
  mixed feelings about guilds: some think they are great, some hate them and what they have 
  become, some are unsure of any guilds real motivation in doing something, and some just do not 
  care.  But for members and leaders of guilds it is the only way of life.  Living in a guild is an 
  exciting life.  You never know if you will be alive in the morning.  And the fear or respect people 
  give you is empowering.  People who are in guilds will tell you there is nothing better than the 
  life in a guild. 
  Not all guilds are bad and not all guilds are good.  Some guilds try to maintain the 
  outward appearance and try to stay in the good graces of the public.  These types of guilds either 
  do not do illegal type of things because they are thought of or they do them in such stealth that 
  none can prove they did it.  Other guilds do not care about the reputation and all they care about 
  is how much power they get.  This clash of ideas is what makes life so interesting for members 
  of guilds, because they never know what the next day is going to bring.  One of the most 
  important things to any guild is reputation.  There are 2 kinds of reputation and they are guild 
  reputation and personal reputation.  Guild reputation is how well known or feared your guild is 
  and personal reputation is who well known or feared you are.  You get reputation from a couple 
  of different places.  You can get public reputation, which is what the city gives and posts them so 
  everyone can see and peer reputation, which is the reputation from those you work with or fight 
  against.  For game mechanics the public reputation and peer reputation are the same reputation, 
  meaning you will have a spot for guild reputation and personal reputation and they will not be 
  broken down by where you got it. 
  The importance of a high reputation is intimidation factor.  The higher you reputation the 
  more people respect or fear you so the easier it becomes to take over guilds or get jobs.  Now all 
  guilds need some kind of income, for money is the lifeblood of any guild.  Without income the 
  guild will not last very long.  So some guilds will hire it self out for all sorts of jobs they are 
  good at to make money.  Some guilds will just take the money from the guilds they take out.  
  More money means more people and more people mean you can protect your guild better. 
  Every guild and person has reputation in the city.  The higher the reputation the more 
  they can get away with.  The lower your reputation the more nobody trust you.  Status ranges 
  from 0-100.  Once you reach 90-100 your guild is known through out the city as a guild not to be 
  messed with.  If you let the guild slip to 10 or lower you do not have to protection of the city 
  because your score is so low if something happens to your guild they city will look the other 
  way.  Many guilds take advantage of this and try to blackmail or undo other guilds while trying 
  to make you look good.  Cities will often give out status points as well as money when they 
  request a job from a guild, so all guilds who do that job will get the status points.  If your guild 
  messes up a job you can lose status points. The city reviews each guild on a quarterly basis and 
  hears the good and bad then sees if the guild gains or loses status. 
  Because of a goof up by the new council there are too many guilds in the city.  Now some 
  of these guilds only have 3 or 4 members and are really a joke by most standards but they are 
  still there and still trying to steal your reputation and business.  New rules are in place but so far 
  the council is having a hard time getting most guilds to follow them.  As a decree no new guilds 
  are allowed to be started until an opening comes up, which will not be for quit some time.  
  Guilds are no longer fighter in public but that is about as far as the council has gotten.  
  
  To join a guild you have to see the guild master.  You can try to find the guild master or a 
  friend can nominate you for membership and set up an appointment.  Once you get to see the 
  guild master he decides if you have the skills needed by giving you a trial period.  In this time 
  you are considered the brat and have no power in the guild.  If you do well you will get promoted 
  to JR member.  As a JR member you may go with other members on missions to prove your 
  worth.  If you prove yourself to the guild then you are a full member.  Once you are a member of 
  a guild you gain all of the rights and privileges that go with the guild.  You may only be part of 
  one guild at a time.  Any one caught being part of 2 guilds is considered to be spying and will be 
  handled with according to the rules and penalties of the guild.  Once you become a member of a 
  guild your name is written down in the guild logbook.  All legal guilds have to have something 
  to identify them as being apart of a guild.  A lot of guilds us magical cloths like vests or belts as 
  there guild symbols.  Other guilds go less fancy and just use simple things like coins.  You can 
  only be part of one guild, so if you go to a different town you cannot join another guild there.  
  The same penalties apply if you get caught.   
  When you are out on a mission for your guild you must act in a way that benefits the 
  guild.  If you give the guild a bad rap, because of something you did or did not do, then you 
  might either get thrown out or have to pay a fine or worse to the guild.  The general rule is you 
  represent the guild any time you are out.  It does not matter if you are on a job or not.  
  Everything you do can affect you or your guild, and you or your guild may gain or lose jobs 
  based upon how you act.  So when choosing a guild, find one that you feel comfortable in and 
  know you can follow the rules of.  Many of people have lost their lives for not holding the guild 
  in high enough regard to follow the rules and the guild got a bad rap. 
  Other races may join guilds and often do so to fit in Human society and to make money.  
  Other races often benefit the guild so they have no problem letting other races join.  Ok now you 
  have joined a guild or not, what is the benefit of joining a guild.  Well around town the guilds are 
  in charge of just about everything.  Most people you buy stuff from are part of a guild, sure they 
  own the store and the stuff they sell but they are part of some guild, same goes for the mages, 
  and the guards.  Being part of a guild has many benefits with a few downsides.  First of all once 
  you are in a guild you can get jobs much more easily.  Most people trust the guild more than they 
  trust a person.  If the member of a guild does not perform the task they are hired for they can go 
  to the guild master of that guild or the owner of the guild and complain but if a person not part of 
  a guild does wrong you might never find him again.  You can also find shelter if need be because 
  guild members will look after one another.  If you are having a hard time they will band together 
  to help where they can.  You also get protection from the law if someone accuses you of doing 
  something and get a chance to a fair trail.   If your guild is doing well you gain respect for being 
  part of that guild and often may receive bonuses for doing a good job. 
  On the downside if you guild does bad you are looked down upon for being part of the 
  guild.  You also have to deal with the inter guild problems that happen from time to time.  Now 
  no guild is aloud to harm another by spreading lies you killing guild members but guilds have 
  been known to be wiped out and a new one put in its place.  The system is not perfect.  If you are 
  not part of a guild you will find it harder to get legal jobs, a lot of people have 2 different prices 
  one for guild members and one for others, you also are considered a lower person because you 
  are not helping the city as well as having a questionable reputation because all good citizens are 
  part of guilds.  Now not all is bad if you do not join a guild.  Sometimes the guilds do not want to 
  use guild members because if they get in trouble their guild looks bad.  Also sometimes they do 
  
  not have the skills needed for a certain job, so guilds do hire outside of the guild for skill they do 
  not have or cannot get. 
  The above is how guilds are supposed to be run in a city, but as we all know that is not normally 
  what happens.  Government officials are bribed, guards look the other way and guild members 
  are killed.  Guild leaders run guilds many different ways, some run them like families and gain 
  respect through kindness, some run things through cruelty and gain respect through fear, some 
  run a tight ship and what the leaders say is law, while some run things very loose and take 
  suggestions from everybody.   
   
  Creating a guild from the ground up is a lot like creating a charter but on a lager guild.  
  This section will not only cover how to make a guild but the advantages of being apart of a guild 
  and how the guilds work.   
   
  If you are creating your own guild then you have 30 points spend in all areas of guild creation 
  but position in the guild.  If you are creating your own guild then you are the owner and guild 
  master of that guild so you do not need a position in the guild because you already have one. 
   
  If you are not creating a guild but are just joining a guild then you have 20 points to spend in 
  your position in the guild, personal reputation, Allies, and Guild bonuses.   
   
  If you are not creating or joining a guild then you have 15 points to spend in personal 
  reputation, and allies.  If you do not join a guild or lose your guild these are the only places you 
  can spend GXP in this section. 
   
  After you have created your guild you can spend experience in the different areas of your guild.  
  You can either choose to spend experience or spend gold to raise your stats.  Anybody can spend 
  points in the guild reputation but only the guild master should write it down for less confusion.   
   
   
  Choose your guild reputation: 
   
  One of the most important things for a guild is its reputation.  Reputation is how others 
  view your guild.  The more positive your reputation among your peers the easier it is to do 
  things.  Reputation ranges from 0-100.  Good reputation can get you more respect, members, and 
  so much more.  Bad reputation can cause to you lose respect, members, and even your life. When 
  you choose your reputation block (0-9, 20-29, ect) you then roll a D12 to determine what your 
  score is.  If you roll an 11 or 12 re roll.  For example if you choose the reputation of 30-39, now 
  you roll a D12 and you rolled a 10 then your reputation would be 39, if you rolled a 1 it would be 
  30.   
   
  One of the major benefits of guild reputation is intimidation.  With guild intimidation you 
  can move in on other peoples turf and the guild has more influence on others around area of the 
  guild.  People in and around your turf will come to your guild.  The higher the reputation the 
  further your influence will reach, even stepping on other guilds toes and there turf.  In order to 
  use guild intimidation you must have a total of at 3 least guild members or its allies.  Other than 
  needing the guild member’s guild intimidation will work just like the normal intimidation skill.  
  Only one member makes the intimidation roll.  The highest-ranking member makes the 
  intimidation because he has the most sway at that point.  If everyone is of equal rank then the 
  
  person with the highest personal reputation makes the roll.  If your guild succeeds at the 
  intimidation roll then the guild you are trying to intimidate receives a -4 penalty to all actions for 
  1 day towards your guild.  If something happens for the opposing guild to lose there intimidation 
  of your guild then all effects are lost.  For example if your guild intimidates another guild and 
  then picks a fight with them and you lose, they will no longer be scared of you.  If you fail then 
  nothing happens.  With guild intimidation you are affecting the whole guild not just one person. 
   
  0-9-Starting guild- this is the lowest rank you can have as a guild.  Either you are just starting 
  your guild or your guild has hit this low and chances are you will be dealt with quickly.  Wither 
  you are just starting or your guild hit this low your guild is not really recognized as a guild in the 
  eyes of your peers or the law, so therefore anything done to your guild or guild members is not 
  against the law.  If you have any members left at this point they might turn on you to gain face 
  among there peers.  If you are just starting your guild this is make it or break it time.  If you 
  cannot hold your own then the city has no use for you.  Costs 5 Guild points.  -4 to intimidation 
  rolls.  At this rank people think your guild is a joke.  75 GXP per point or 300 gold per point. 
   
  10-19- fallen from grace- you are getting close to being considered a real guild.  A few people 
  have taken notice and you are starting to climb the ranks.  On the other hand this is close to the 
  lowest rank you can get and not much better.  If you have let your guild reputation sink this low 
  you are still in danger of hostile takeover or your members turning on you before it is too late.  It 
  is still not illegal to harm your guild members or your guild.  Costs 7 Guilds points.  -3 to 
  intimidation rolls.  70 GXP per point or 275 gold per point. 
   
  20-29-Low times- You have done it, you are now officially a guild.  Although you rep is not high 
  you still have one, and now have the rights associated with guilds.  Your guild symbol is now 
  recognized and your “territory” is now yours.  If your guild has slipped to this level then your 
  guild is headed to certain destruction and you need to look at what you have done to get here in 
  order to save yourselves.  At this level reputation people do not trust you or your members a 
  whole lot but you do have some trust.  Where as it is illegal to harm the guild at this reputation a 
  small bribe and the peers and officials will look the other way.   Costs 10 Guild points.  -2 to 
  intimidation rolls.  65 GXP per point or 250 gold per point. 
   
  30-39-Below average – At this reputation your guild name has spread to more than one city 
  block.  You are starting to do some good things and are starting to move up in the rep chain.  If 
  your guild has dropped to this level then you have done some stuff that has been looked at as bad 
  among your peers or the council.  Guilds would have to pay a medium sized bribe to more than 
  one peer or official to get them to turn their backs.  Costs 11 Guild points.  -1 to intimidation 
  rolls.  50 GXP per point or 200 gold per point. 
   
  40-49-Minor- Your guild has almost hit average status.  At this reputation your guild name has 
  spread across many city blocks and things are looking up for your guild.  On the other hand if 
  you have slipped up then it has not been by much.  The guild has made a few minor errors but 
  nothing damaging or horrific.  The guild still has decent reputation among most people and a lot 
  of people might over look the bad things.  People at this point would have to not only pay a 
  medium bribe to more than one peer or official they would have to show how it would help to 
  
  have the guild gone.    Costs 12 Guild points.  No modifier for intimidation rolls.  45 GXP per 
  point or 150 gold per point. 
   
  50-59-Average- Your guild is really starting to move up the chain and is starting to get some 
  respect.  This is where a lot of guilds top out.  From here on you need to be doing things better 
  and faster then other guilds.  Most guilds are very content with this rank because you are not 
  doing bad but you are doing things steady.  It has done nothing to shame itself but has not done 
  anything to bring glory to the guild type People at this point would have to not only pay a 
  medium bribe to more than one peer or official they would have to show how it would help to 
  have the guild gone.  +1 on intimidation rolls.  Costs 13 guild points.  50 GXP per points or 100 
  gold per point. 
   
  60-69- Above average- The guild has done enough things right to raise it’s reputation above the 
  normal of average.  The guild might finish all of its jobs in a timely manor with good results or 
  the guild could just go above the call of duty time and time again.  People at this point would 
  have to not only pay a medium bribe to more than one peer and official they would have to show 
  how it would help to have the guild gone.  +3 intimidation rolls.  Costs 14 Guild points.  This is 
  the last level you can take at guild creation.  65 GXP per point or 200 gold per point. 
   
  70-79-Well done-The guild has gained a very good reputation among the city and possibly 
  others.  Your great deeds are told in stories in the pubs.  People on the street give way to you in 
  respect or fear.  Few guilds will ever reach this kind of fame and respect.  The downside to this 
  kind of fame is now people are trying to take your guild out to gain their own reputation.  People 
  would have to pay a large bribe to many people and convince them the guild is really bad.  +4 on 
  intimidation rolls.  75 GXP per point or 300 gold per point.  You cannot take this rank of guild 
  reputation at guild creation. 
   
  80-89-Unstoppable- The guilds great deeds are heard all around town.  You have such a high 
  reputation that some people think your guild is the thing of legends.  People line up to join your 
  guild and often you have to turn people away from your guild.  People look at you in awe or fear 
  as you come into view.  The downside to this kind of fame is now people are trying to take your 
  guild out to gain their own reputation.  People would have to pay a large bribe to many people 
  and convince them the guild is really bad.  +5 on intimidation rolls.  You cannot take this level of 
  guild reputation at guild creation.  100 GXP per point or 400 gold per point. 
   
  90-100- Top of the chain- The guild has such a high reputation that some people think of the 
  guild as god like.  People will move to the other side of the street out of respect or fear for your 
  guild.  The guild has such a good name chances are you could go lunch with the governor of the 
  area at a whims notice.  Being apart of a guild of this reputation is as close to nobility as most 
  people will ever get.  The downside to this kind of fame is now people are trying to take your 
  guild out to gain their own reputation.  People wishing to bring down your guild would have to 
  pay an enormous sum of money to a whole lot of people and convince them that the guild is so 
  bad that you might have an easier time teaching a donkey to speak common.  +7 on intimidation 
  rolls.  200 GXP per point or 650 gold per point. 
   
  
  After game has started the Guild points will not matter but the rest does.  Every few months your 
  peers of gild types and/or officials of the city will get together with the leader of the guild and 
  give or take away rank.  The most they can give is 6 points and the most they can take away is 6 
  points.  A special session can be held to take away even greater amounts if need be. 
   
  How many members does the guild have? 
   
  In this part of creating your guild you need to determine how many people are in your 
  guild.  For guild creation it is a point for point bases.  If you want 12 members then it is going to 
  cost you 12 Guild points.  If you want 4 members then it is going to cost you 4 points.  Over time 
  with experience or gold you can raise the number of people you can have. 
   
  0-9 people 1 Guild point, 25 GXP or 100 gold per person 
  10-19 people 3 Guild points, 20 GXP or 75 gold per person 
  20-29 people 5 Guild points, 15 GXP or 50 gold per person 
  30-39 people 6 Guild points, 20 GXP or 75 gold per person 
  40-49 people 8 Guild points, 25 GXP or 100 gold per person 
  50-59 people 9 Guild points, 30 GXP or 125 gold per person 
  60-69 people 10 Guild points, 35 GXP or 150 gold per person 
  70-79 people 12 Guild points, 40 GXP or 175 gold per person 
  80-89 people 13 Guild points, 45 GXP or 200 gold per person 
  90-99 people 15 Guild points, 50 GXP or 250 gold per person 
  100 + people 16 Guild points, 75 GXP or 400 gold per person 
   
  Your position in the guild: 
   
  Now it is time for you to think about what position you want in the guild.  Your position 
  in the guild is what you do for the guild.  You can be an officer in the guild which means you 
  have already gone out and made a name for the guild and now you work behind the scenes and 
  the day-to-day actives or you could be a member going out on the jobs the officers get and 
  gaining glory or shame for your guild.  There are other positions in the guild other than just those 
  2.  If you choose owner you may also choose the guild leader role, but you have to pay for both 
  of them. 
   
  1st officer- This is the guild leaders right hand man.   The 1st officer can do all of the duties of the 
  guild leader if the guild leader is away.  The 1st officer can give orders if he needs to and has a 
  lot of respect within the guild.  You do not need other people with you to use guild intimidation.  
  Costs 10 Guild points. 
   
  2nd officer-This is the guild leaders second hand man.  The 2nd in command can do all of the 
  things that the 1st officer can do if both the guild leader and 1st officer are away.  2nd officer still 
  has a lot of respect within the guild. You do not need other people with you to use guild 
  intimidation.  Costs 8 Guild points. 
   
  Bodyguard-The bodyguard rank is a very powerful rank because you are protecting the leaders 
  and anyone else that needs it at the time.  Some bodyguards will be full time for the guild leader 
  and his officers.  The guild leader and his officers will more than likely have more than one 
  
  bodyguard a apiece.  Some bodyguards are only part time if they are not away on a mission and 
  will be body guarding someone through town or to a dangerous spot.  Costs 6 Guild points. 
   
  Councilor- The councilor rank means you provide advice to anyone in the guild who needs it.  
  Most of the time you will be counseling the guild leader on hard problems that he is having.  
  There are not too many councilors in each guild maybe 2 or 3.  Costs 3 Guild points. 
   
  Member-You are an normal member.  You are the backbone of the guild.  You go out and do the 
  duties of the guild and make glory or shame for your guild.  Above all other ranks people outside 
  your guild look at your actions to determine how they like your guild.  Costs no Guild points. 
   
  JR member-  You have not been in the guild for a long time.  This period of time is like a trial 
  period to see if you like the guild and if the guild likes you.  You get to go on missions with 
  another member to see how you do and to get the feel of the guild.  Add 2 Guild points. 
   
  Brat-You are the newest member of the guild.  You have no power and have to do all of the 
  chores no one else wants to do.  You are stuck the brat until you prove yourself to the guild and 
  then you become a JR member.  If a long time goes by and no new members come into the guild 
  the guild leader may bump you up to JR member but you will still keep the title of brat until a 
  new member comes along.  Add 4 Guild points. 
   
  Your personal reputation: 
   
  This area lets you figure out how much reputation you have.  Like the guild reputation 
  this reputation ranks from 0-100.  The higher you are in reputation the more liked or feared you 
  are in the world and the more or less you might be able to get away with.  With personal 
  reputation people know who you are not just the guild you belong to.  As with guild reputation a 
  major benefit of having a high personal reputation is the use of the reputation for intimidation.  
  Unlike guild reputation however you are only affecting a few people at most.  The personal 
  reputation intimidation works just like the intimidation skill. 
   
  After you have chosen a reputation block (0-9,20-29, ECT) roll a D12 to find out your 
  reputation.  If you roll an 11 or 12 re roll.  For example if you choose the reputation of 30-39, 
  now you roll a D12 and you rolled a 10 then your reputation would be 39, if you rolled a 1 it 
  would be 30.   
   
  0-9-Starting out-This is the bottom of the chain for you.  You are an unknown person really no 
  one knows who you are.  You might have also messed up so bad that it is only time before your 
  life is over.  Even if you drop out of the sight people are still going to hunt you down.  -4 to 
  intimidation rolls.  Costs 5 Guild points.  75 GXP per point or 300 gold per point. 
   
  10-19-Freash meat-You have gained some reputation as a person but not much.  You are starting 
  to work your way up the rep ladder.  You might have still messed up bad but not as bad as the 
  lowest rank.  Death is still a very real option but you might be able to save yourself by doing 
  something really, really great.  -3 to intimidation rolls.  Costs 7 Guild points.  70 GXP per point 
  or 275 gold per point.   
   
  
  20-29-Getting there-You are well under way to being a person in the eyes of your peers.  Your 
  name has spread past the block you live in.  If you have dropped to this level you might not get 
  killed, punished yes but not killed.  You have messed things up in a way that is going to take a 
  long time to fix.  -2 to intimidation rolls.  Costs 10 Guild points.  65 GXP per point or 250 gold 
  per point.  
   
  30-39- Low status-You have a decent reputation and people are starting to understand they can 
  come to you if they need something.  If you have let you reputation get this low then you are not 
  going to be the first person picked to do things but you are not going to be the last either.  You 
  have a reputation for messing things up somehow, so people do not trust you for real important 
  jobs.  -1 to intimidation rolls.  Costs 11 Guild points.  50 GXP per point or 200 gold per point. 
   
  40-49-Almost average- Almost there, you are so very close to being an average person.  You 
  have worked hard and it is starting to pay off.  On the other side if you have let things slip it is 
  not by much.  You have done a few small things that are bad, but will be overlooked with a small 
  amount of time.  You are still looked with some respect as a person.  No modifier for 
  intimidation rolls.  Costs 12 guild points.  45 GXP per point or 150 gold per point. 
   
  50-59-Average- Here you are a real person.  This is as high as a lot of people want to get.  You 
  have not anything really great or bad.  Most people do not see a need to go above this reputation 
  or are to lazy to do so.  +1 on intimidation rolls.  Costs 13 guild points.  50 GXP per points or 
  100 gold per point.  
    
  60-69-Above average- You have pushed yourself harder than most people and it shows.  A good 
  portion of the town has heard of you and you are getting the respect you deserve.  At this 
  reputation people might move out of the way if they know who you are.  +3 intimidation rolls.  
  Costs 14 Guild points.  65 GXP per point or 200 gold per point.  This is the last level of personal 
  reputation you may take at guild creation. 
   
  70-79-Heroic -You are treading in reputation that few ever get too.  You have done a lot of 
  things right and people know about them.  People tell your stories in bars and pubs all across 
  town.   To many your are a living legend, but if they do not know you they might not believe you 
  are him because of the stories about you.  The downside to this kind of fame is now people are 
  trying to take you out to gain their own reputation.  +4 on intimidation rolls.  75 GXP per point 
  or 300 gold per point.  You cannot take this level or higher of reputation at guild creation. 
   
  80-89- Legendary -You have reach a level of reputation that almost no one ever reaches.  You 
  actions are so well known even small children have heard of things you have done.  The only 
  problem with reps this high is no one believes you are you.  +5 on intimidation rolls.  You cannot 
  take this level of guild reputation at guild creation.  The downside to this kind of fame is now 
  people are trying to take you out to gain their own reputation.  100 GXP per point or 400 gold 
  per point. 
   
  90-100-Unstoppable-You have made it to the top of the reputation food chain.  The council 
  might call upon you from time to time.  Your actions are so well know that people if the know 
  you move out of the way out of fear or respect.  This is the top so enjoy life while it lasts.   The 
  
  downside to this kind of fame is now people are trying to take you out to gain their own 
  reputation.  +7 on intimidation rolls.  200 GXP per point or 650 gold per point. 
   
  Allies: 
   
  This section lets you decide how many guild or personal allies you have.  Allies can help 
  you in times of need or if you just do not have the skills needed.  Allies are not friends (though 
  they can be) so they do not have to help you.  Allies will also ask you or your guild for help as 
  well.  When working with an allied person or guild keep in mind that there reputation is just as 
  important to them as yours is to you.  When choosing allies you must pay for the different types.  
  If you chose a personal ally and wanting a guild ally then you would have to pay the price again 
  for the guild allied person.  
   
  1 allied person/guild costs 2 Guild points.  150 GXP or 150 gold 
  2 Allied people/guilds cost 6 Guild points.  175 GXP or 200 gold 
  3 Allied people/guilds cost 8 Guild points.  200 GXP or 250 gold 
  4 Allied people/guilds cost 10 Guild points. 250 GXP or 300 gold 
  5 Allied people/guilds cost 12 Guild points.  300 GXP or 350 gold 
  6 Allied people/guilds cost 14 Guild points.  350 GXP or 400 gold 
  7 Allied people/guilds cost 16 Guild points.  400 GXP or 450 gold 
  9 Allied people/guilds cost 18 Guild points.  450 GXP or 500 gold 
  10+ allied people/guilds cost 24 Guild points.  600GXP or 800 gold 
   
  Guild bonuses: 
   
  This section covers bonuses to skills.  These are skills you have picked up while being 
  apart of a guild.  When you join a guild they start training you in things that you are good at.  
  The better you do the better you can perform and the better you are to the guild.  Pick 3 from the 
  list.  If you do not already have the skill then add it at bonus stated.  You cannot pick the same 
  bonus more than once.  These bonuses do not allow you to raise your skill above 10 at character 
  creation.  If you did not join a guild you cannot use this section.   
   
  Armor- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Blacksmithing- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Weapon Smith- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Lock Picking- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Pick Pocket- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Sleight of Hand- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Acrobatics- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Athletics- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  
  Disarm Traps- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Stealth- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Forgery- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Heraldry- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Law- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Navigation- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Scouting- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Set Traps- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Sign Language- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Notice- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Channeling- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Sorcery- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Spell Craft- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Gambling- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Leadership- adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, then know you have it at 2. 
   
  Weapon skill- you choose 1 weapon skill and adds 2 to your Skill.  If you do not have this skill, 
  then know you have it at 2. 
  
  GUILDS AND THE CITY 
   
   
  If you are wondering what the purpose of the guilds are from a city and game point of 
  view, let me tell you.  Guilds provide many services both seen and unseen for the city.  They 
  bring in a lot of cash for the city by taxes.  Guilds also keep the competition running between 
  venders and guilds so prices stay reasonable.  Guilds can also take of things that sometimes the 
  city cannot do.  Let me try to explain: 
   
  Because there are so many guilds most of them having at least one member who owns a 
  store front, guilds are a major part of the cities economy.  Also whenever they take other jobs 
  like body guarding, or waging small wars they also get paid for that as well.  All of that money 
  means more taxes for the city, and more taxes means more money.  Most of the specialized skills 
  belong to guilds like detectives, thieves, magic users, scouts, warriors, blacksmiths, weapon 
  smiths, and armors.  These types of skills are not found anywhere so when people need things of 
  this sort they go to guilds.   
   
  Because there are so many guilds and people selling products and services they prices 
  have to be kept down.  If one person or guild tried to rise there prices too much people would 
  just find another seller or guild because the prices are not too high for most products and services 
  more people can afford to buy the product or service, which means again more money.  If guilds 
  try to bully the market and raise their prices too much they might find themselves under new 
  management. 
   
   
  Sometimes something in the city needs to be done but the council cannot do it.  These 
  times they can “mention” something to a guild in passing, and then that guild if they take it upon 
  themselves can do something about it.  Sometimes the council just has no power to do something 
  that they need to do, so they call on a guild or two to handle the problem. 
   
   
  By doing the 3 things mentioned above the guilds offer a huge service to the city.  They 
  maintain balance between guilds and other people selling products and services, the raise taxes 
  for the city, and offer the council to bend the rules when they need something done that they 
  cannot do themselves.  For these reasons the guilds are a very necessary part of Council Bluffs 
  and without them the city would surely crumble.  From a game point of view the guilds offer a 
  chance for the players to live out there dreams and do almost anything they want, as long as they 
  can get away with it.  Guilds are the main focus of the game.  As the players move through the 
  ranks of society they find that the glory and honor they were seeking is much harder to get and 
  maintain then they thought. 
  
  REPUTATION 
   
   
  You have created your guild now what?  What is so important about reputation anyways?  
  In GUILD HUNTERS reputation is the one of the most important things for the game.  Everyone 
  is judged by there personal and guild reputation.  You will or will not get missions based upon 
  your personal and guild reputation.  You will or will not get allies by your personal or guild 
  reputation.  You might get better or worse prices on the stuff you buy with personal and guild 
  reputation.  In the city of Council Bluffs and all humans cities reputation is very important.  With 
  reputation you are held accountable for your actions and what you do.  High reputations means 
  that you are good at what you do while low reputation means no one trusts you nor listen to you.  
  Reputation is how you make it or break it in Council Bluffs.  Reputation is based upon how well 
  you do something.  If you are sent out to protect a merchant vendor who is also in the guild and 
  you fail you will not only lose reputation but most likely will not be asked to guard again.  Now 
  it does all depend on situation.  If you are guarding the vendor and 25 people come up and pick a 
  fight then most likely it will be declared not your fault and no reputation will be lost.   
   
  When you gain reputation or get missions or jobs you are taking away form other people 
  and guilds reputation or jobs that should have gone to them.  People and guilds need to be on 
  their toes and out think there opponents to stay one step ahead of them.  Remember for every 
  person that likes you most likely 2 start to dislike you.  For example if you the player start 
  gaining reputation rapidly you might start getting to jobs that normally went to someone else.  
  That person is not going to like being put on the back burner while you steal his thunder.  He 
  probably will not attack you directly but will find ways to bring you down.  He might spread 
  rumors about you or when you are out drinking say something to a couple of drunks to get them 
  mad.  In this way you start to look bad and he starts to look good again.  This kind of subtle 
  attacks happen just as much as physical combat so the player needs to be aware of them so they 
  do not fall in the trap.  The same theory holds true for guilds.  Other guilds are quietly, spreading 
  rumors or undermining what you are doing to make you look bad and them look good.   
  Reputation is broken down into 2 areas.  Personal reputation and guild reputation.  
  Personal reputation is how well known you the player are in the city and beyond and guild 
  reputation is how well known your guild is in the city and beyond.  Both reputations are equally 
  important.  If you have a high reputation and your guild has a low reputation then people are 
  going to trust you but not your guild.  Everything you do will either reflect good or bad on you or 
  your guild so you are always gaining or losing personal or guild reputation.  Reputation should 
  be handed out on the spot as things happen so the consequences of your actions are immediate.  
  When accepting or doing jobs or missions you need to think about the outcomes of such an 
  action.  Here is a possible list of things that can raise or lower your personal or guild reputation.  
  This list is not meant to be all-inclusive but to as ideas for what to give.  The may give more or 
  less depending in what he feels is the right amount.   
   
   
  The guild and its allies succeeded at what it was doing.  +1 guild reputation per guild involved  
   
  The guild and its allies failed what it was trying to do.  –1 guild reputation per guild. 
   
  A member or more makes the guild or its allies look good in the eyes of others.  +1 guild 
  reputation per guild. 
  
   
  A member or more make the guild or its allies look bad in the eyes of others.  –1 guild reputation 
  per guild. 
   
  Your guild and allies take out leaders of another guild with a reputation of 10-19 higher that your 
  guilds.  +4 guild reputation per guild. 
   
  Your guild or its allies leaders are taken out by guilds with a reputation of 10-19 less than you.  –
  4 guild reputation per guild. 
   
  Your guild and its allies take out the guild leaders of a guild with reputation of 20 points or more 
  higher than yours.  +6 guild reputation. 
   
  You guild or its allies leaders are taken out by guilds with a reputation of 20 points lower than 
  your guilds. 
   
  Your guild gains new turf.  +2 guild reputation. 
   
  Your guild loses turf.  –2 guild reputation. 
   
  Your guild gains new members that you do not have to bribe.  +2 guild reputation. 
   
  Your guild or its allies eliminates another guild all together.  +10 Guild reputation per guild. 
   
  Your guild does something illegal and get away with it.  +3 guild reputation. 
   
  Your guild does something illegal and gets caught.  –3 guild reputation 
   
  You beat someone with a reputation of 10-19 higher than you.  +4 personal reputation. 
   
  You lose to someone with a reputation of 10-19 points lower than you.  –4 personal reputation. 
   
  You beat someone with a reputation of 20+ higher than you.  +6 personal reputation. 
   
  You lose to someone with a reputation of 20 lower than you.  –6 personal reputation. 
   
  You beat someone with 1 action.  +3 personal reputation. 
   
  You get beaten with 1 blow.  –3 personal reputation. 
   
  You beat 3 or more people at the same time.  +5 personal reputation. 
   
  You do something illegal and do not get caught.  +3 personal reputation. 
   
  You do something illegal and get caught.  –3 personal reputation. 
  
  WHAT SHOULD GUILDS DO? 
   
   
  If you are wondering what you should do with your guild, then this section is for you.  
  GUILD HUNTERS was created to be fun and versatile.  What this means is you play a member 
  of a guild or looking for a guild.  That much is not versatile, but when it comes to what the guild 
  can do then the sky is the limit.  This is where the game really versatile.  The rules have been 
  made in incorporate most styles of play.    The rules will support guilds running around and 
  killing all other guilds.  The rules also work for the people who want much more of a normal 
  fantasy game.  The game will work for players that just want to set up shops and sell things.  
  Because everything you do affects your reputation this then allows for many styles of play.  
  Because no matter what you do if you do it well then the competition dislikes you and if you do 
  it poorly then the customers dislike you.  Along your guilds way to glory some other guild is 
  going to have problems with you and you are going to have to fend them off there is no question 
  about that.   
   
  But what if you do not want to fight all of the time?  That is fine.  You can create a guild that 
  solves crime for the city and have the story told around one or more puzzling crimes.  With the 
  way magic works this adds a whole new level to mystery. 
   
  What if you want a game where all the players want to run weapon smiths trying to compete with 
  one another?  This is fine too.  The story would then weave around these up and coming weapon 
  smiths that are stealing business from the other weapon smiths and now have to come out with 
  better product to compete. 
   
  What if your group just wants to play a fantasy game and leave most of the guild stuff alone?  
  This is possible as well.  They would still have to be members of a guild but they could leave the 
  city and explore the world and have they story involve that.  
   
  What if you wanted to create your guild and then run it like the mafia?   Again this is very doable 
  in GUILD HUNTERS.  The story would then be your guild gaining turf in the city and 
  eliminating the other guilds that stand in your way.  In the end you have built an empire, or died 
  trying. 
   
  What if you wanted to be healers and save people?  This is another way to play the game.  You 
  could create your guild and your story would follow you as you try to help and save people. 
   
   
  There are many, many more ideas that can be done.  Guilds in GUILD HUNTERS are a 
  mix between unions, gangs, mafia, historical, and fantasy guilds.  The guilds have not been 
  meant to resemble any of the above mentioned guild types but been left open so the GM and 
  players can decide what type of guild they want to run for this campaign.  With this kind of 
  versatile options you never have to play the same kind of game twice. 
  
  GUILDS OUT OF COMBAT 
   
   
  What do you do when your guild is not in combat?  Guild combat or any combat is only 
  half of GUILD HUNTERS.  The other half is intrigue.  Intrigue and mystery play a big part in 
  the lives of guild members.  When guilds are not fighting they are trying to learn information on 
  other guilds, trying to increase there guild members, influence the council, or trying to figure out 
  how to stay ahead while not falling into traps.  Fighting or combat is only done when all other 
  options or actions have been expended.  For example if you were able to get the information you 
  needed before to know that a guild was not happy with what you did and were after you then you 
  could avoid fighting by readying yourself with the facts and come to a agreement with the other 
  guild.  If you did not get that info then more than likely you are looking at fighting.  But how do 
  you get the information or influence people?  Part of it comes from reputation and part of it 
  comes form knowing whom, what, and when to bribe and influence.   
   
   People are independent and very unpredictable.  Just because you have money or big 
  knuckles they might not do what you want.   To represent this in the game whenever you are 
  trying to gain information, bribe, or influence anyone you roll your intimidation and they roll 
  their intimidation.  The intimidation skill in this game works for both intimidation and like cool 
  for not being intimidated.  You do add in your personal or guild (not both) reputation bonus for 
  this roll.  If you beat him then your bribe, ECT… has worked.  If he beats you (Ties go to the 
  defender) then the bribe, ECT… does not work.  There are a number of factors that can help or 
  hinder your efforts in getting info, bribing, or influencing people.  When you try to get info, 
  bribe, or influence people who are not willing you need to make them scared of you.  If they are 
  willing then no roll is needed automatic success 
   
  So what is considered scared?  And how do you make them scared?  You can scare 
  people in a number of ways.  You can make an intimidation roll beforehand trying to press to 
  deadliness; you could give them some information like you are holding their family to try to 
  scare them, or you could simply walk up to them and hurt them and then start asking questions.  
  For all of these but the physically hurting them you would roll intimidation and it acts like your 
  cool to see if you can pull off the lie or to make then scared.  They roll there intimidation to see 
  if there cool is better and the bluff fails.  If you are holding someone they hold dear and you 
  show them that person then you still need to roll intimidation to see the outcome.  Depending on 
  how well your roll went will depend on how they act.   
   
  When you roll your outcome it can mean many different things.  Remember that if they 
  are willing to give up whatever you want for free or the price you want then no roll is needed.  
  Also when using intimidation this way ignore the normal rules and use these rules.  The normal 
  intimidations rules are meant for more combat and guild related actions. 
  If you beat their score by: 
   
  1-4 then they are kind of scared of you but not enough for a penalty. 
  5-8 then you have put some fear into them.  –2 penalty to intimidation defense when dealing with 
  you for this scene. 
  9-12 Then they are scared of you and are willing to day what you say.  –4 penalty to intimidation 
  defense when dealing with you for the next day. 
  13-16 They are scared for there life and will give up anything you want.  –6 penalty to 
  intimidation defense when dealing with you for the next week. 
  
  17-20-they are not only scared of you but will be for the next long while.  –8 penalty to 
  intimidation defense when dealing with you for the next month. 
  21+- they are so scared of you that they might never get over it.  –10 penalty to intimidation 
  defense when dealing with you for the rest of there life. 
   
  It should be noted here that the penalties are only for intimidation defense.  If it they make the 
  defense at any time they can act normally.  If it comes time to fight then you would have to roll 
  normal intimidation to get a penalty, though when defend if they have a penalty it will carry 
  over.  If the person makes their normal intimidation roll then no penalties are recorded for the 
  fight. 
   
  What if you are trying to get information by being in a room and listing?  If you are 
  trying to do this then you roll your notice skill.  The higher the score the more you heard. 
   
  If you beat your TN by: 
  0-4 then you caught key words but the rest is mumbled. 
  5-8 then you caught key phrases and should be able to piece the rest together. 
  9-12 You caught most of the conversation and can report it back well. 
  13-16 you caught all of the conversation and know the tones of voices as well. 
  17+ You not only got the conversation you were ease dropping in on but other ones that might be 
  good to know as well. 
   
   If you are trying to get information out of someone but do not want to use intimidation then use 
  enticement, persuasion, or seduction.  When using these skills you use a TN your GM gives you.   
   
  If you beat your TN by: 
  0-4 they will give you a small piece of information but not all of what you want. 
  5-8 they will give you a bigger piece of the information but still not much. 
  9-12 they will give you all of the information you ask for the first time. 
  13-16 they will give you all of the information and you do not even have to work hard for it. 
  17+ they will not only give you the information you want but other information related to what 
  you wanted to know if they know it. 
   
  By learning information, bribing people, or influencing people you or your guild can set up traps 
  or avoid traps set for you with little to no combat.  No player should ever just do stuff, complete 
  it, and move on to the next thing without figuring out what the behind the scenes work is.  For 
  not knowing that could cost you your life. 
  
  THE COUNCIL 
   
   
  The council is the ruling body that makes the rules.  All rules are subject to the king 
  approval but he is so scared of the council he goes along with whatever they say.  The council is 
  made up of people from guilds with a reputation of 80 or higher.  In order to be considered to be 
  on the council your guild must have had a reputation of 80 or higher for at least 3 months.  After 
  that your guild may summit a form to the council indicating that you feel you should have a seat 
  on the council.  The council will then view both your guild and your candidate to see if they 
  would benefit the council and city.  Once approved to be on the council your candidate must sear 
  an oath of loyalty to the council.  Once on the council your guild member will represent your 
  guild but will no longer be apart of the guild.  Instead he is on the council and must perform the 
  duties assigned to him.  As long as your guild remains above 80 reputation he maintains a seat on 
  the council.  What is the point of having a member on the council if he is not apart of your guild? 
  The council member you put into the council will share your beliefs and will try to vote and get 
  things that your guild wants approved and changed.  Other than that knowing that a member of 
  council comes from your guild.   
   
  It is illegal to bribe a council member but it happens more than it should.   Often council 
  members hold more loyalty to his guild and do what his guild tells him too.  The council makes 
  all of the laws for the city as well as handles the punishment of crimes.  The council is also in 
  charge of making sure that the new laws are heard throughout the city.   
   
   
  
  MAGIC 
   
   
  Magic!  What is magic in this world?  Magic is viewed differently by most of the races.  
  It has been around longer then anyone can remember; so everyone has been brought up with 
  magic, some just do not trust it.  Magic is the great equalizer. Anyone can kill great numbers 
  with it or might just kill themselves in the process of trying; but it has also brought joy and 
  happiness to many people.  Magic is used in most everyday chores by all races.  It is used to 
  make buildings and enhance life.  The difference is shown by how much it is used by each race 
  and what each race views as important enough to use it for.  The Elves consider it to be spirits 
  and believe that when you cast magic you are summoning them to you and they are the magic.  
  They respect the spirits and do not want to offend them; so they only use magic when they need 
  to and not more.  The Dwarfs believe that when they cast magic they are calling upon the very 
  elements of the earth and using them to construct, remake, and undo things.  They are very 
  respectful of the elements as well for they use them both in magic and in daily life, so they do 
  not want to upset the balance of things.  The Minotaurs have the widest belief on the use of 
  magic.  During there enslavement there owners used magic on them often.  Because of that some 
  of the Minotaurs believe they should learn as much about magic as they can so no race can use 
  magic against them again.  Some however still believe that magic is so dangerous that magic 
  should not be used at all unless it is healing magic.  The Felis race believes magic is a gift from 
  the gods, but still does not usually trust it.  They use magic as little as they can because they feel 
  it might run out, so they use it when they have to.  The Halflings like the Felis race try not to 
  think about it too much.  Magic is here and it works most of the time so they use it.  They do not 
  use it very often though, for they had a few mishaps and they do not trust it much or use it often.  
  The Humans, on the other hand, believe magic is power and humans love power.  Which race is 
  right?  Well all of them.  No race is right and no race is wrong.  All magic works the same no 
  matter who is casting.  The humans believe they are drawing the power out of themselves for the 
  magic.  Because we here making the game are humans, through this book, when we talk about 
  magic we will be using the view of the humans. 
   
  We now know how each race views magic, but we still need to find out what magic is.  
  Magic is a force that allows all people, if they choose to use it, to do things they cannot do on 
  their own.  Magic allows a person become strong allowing them to plow their field in less time 
  or to throw a fireball at someone.  Magic is a supernatural force that is very powerful and when 
  misused it turns on the wielder and causes great damage to the user.  Magic is free flowing, and 
  you can use it many ways.  In game terms there are dozen known spells that are thought to many 
  starting people learning magic, but most people will make up their own result and what the spell 
  does.  Most spells are short-lived, one time spells, but some can last forever.  There are many 
  different routes you can go to come up with the same spell; in normal terms you can use different 
  spheres to cause the same spell.  You design your spell from the ground up, from what the result 
  is to long it takes to cast the spell.  The player, with the GM’s approval, has complete control 
  over the final results of the spell, be descriptive.  There are charts to follow for point costs, and 
  we have made them as easy to follow as possible.   
  
  NON-OPPOSED MAGIC 
   
  Now let’s talk about how the game mechanics of magic work.  There are 16 spheres and 
  all spheres are classified as either Sorcery or Channeling magic.  The Sorcery spheres are the 
  spheres most likely to be used in combat to do damage to things in some form.  Things you are 
  used to seeing like earth, air, fire, etc. as well as ones like the death sphere are sorcery spheres.  
  The Channeling spheres deal mostly with things outside of combat like healing, talking to spirits, 
  and so on.  Sorcery spheres can be used for non-combat actions and likewise Channeling spheres 
  can be used for spontaneous spheres.  The spheres are broken down into two sections for two 
  reasons.  Reason one, it fits the game mechanics all the way around; reason two, to separate the 
  different groups.  Like everything else, the Magic main attribute has two sub-attributes that make 
  up the main attribute.  One sub-attribute will tell you how many Sorcery spheres you get at the 
  start and the other sub-attribute will tell you how many Channeling spheres you get.   
  There will be a chart to let you know how many of both Sorcery and Channeling spheres you get 
  at the beginning of the game. 
  Most of the time when you cast magic it is going to act like a non-opposed action in the 
  combat section.  You look over the charts for creating your spell and come up with a total cost 
  for the spell.  The total spell cost is the target number you need to equal or beat.  Defense works 
  a little different, but we will get to that later.  Like a non-opposed action you need to roll your 3 
  D12’s to come up with a total.  Next you add your Magic skill and the right sub-attribute 
  together, and then add that to your dice total for a grand total.  If that total equals or beats the 
  total point cost of the spell, then you made your spell and it goes off like you wanted.  If you get 
  lower then the total spell cost, then you failed and the spell either the spell dissipates and nothing 
  happens or you suffer backlash (See failing a spell section).  That is pretty much how it works; 
  here is an example of how it works. 
   
  Example: 
   
  Mike wants to cast a spell and after looking over the point cost of everything he decides his spell costs 40 
  points.  This is a combat spell, so he uses the spell casting sub-attribute, which he has at 6, and he has a Magic skill 
  of 8.  So before Mike rolls the dice he has a total of 14 (8 for his Magic skill plus 6 for his sub-attribute equals 14.)  
  Mike rolls his dice and comes up with 10, 3, and 7 for a total of 20.  Now he adds his dice total with his other total 
  for a grand total of 34 (14+10+3+7=34.)  Mike did not make enough to cast his spell so nothing happens. 
   
  
   
  DEFENDING MAGIC 
   
  Now let’s talk about defending against magic.  If it is magic that is going to cause harm (at least 
  1 point of damage), then you may try to use another or the same sphere to try to block the 
  oncoming attack.  If it is a non-combat spell (not causing any harm), then you defend against it 
  with one of the main attributes.  Let’s look at defending against magic that harms first.  As with 
  anything else you have to see either the person casting magic or know it is coming to try to 
  defend against it.  The other rule in this case is you have to have enough actions left to cast a 
  spell for defense.  Both of these rules have to happen before you can defend against harmful 
  magic.  You can try to defend against any harmful magic with almost any spontaneous sphere, 
  except the healing sphere.  The healing sphere cannot be used for a last minute defense.  If you 
  are wondering how water could block an earth attack or some other physical attack, then I will 
  tell you, we decided on this for a couple of reasons.  The first and main one is that it is magic 
  blocking magic rather then element blocking element.  If you build a wall of earth to block a 
  water attack it is the magic in the earth; the earth is just the result and sphere you are controlling 
  at the time.  The other main reason is complexity; it would be too hard to try to figure out what 
  he was casting and how to try to defend against it.   
   
  The way you defend against a harmful magical attack is to build your own spell.  Once 
  you know the spell is coming, or if you had built a defense early on and it is still there, you then 
  build your own spell with the actions you have left and cast it.  If you get it right, your defense 
  will come up in time of the attack and both spells will collide.  The victor will be the one with 
  the higher result (higher damage or higher defense.)  In game mechanic terms, your GM will tell 
  you if someone is casting a spell at you and if you see it.  If you see it and have enough actions 
  left to cast a spell, then you look at your chart and make a spell of you own.  Most of the time the 
  spell will be close so you do not have to worry about range; and if you want, you only have to 
  have it last a few turns so it can cost less from that as well.  You want to put most of your points 
  into the result because the GM is not going to tell you how many points the attacker’s spell is 
  going to cost.  This is where things get tough because you have to have enough points in your 
  defense to block most or all of the attack but still have the spell within a point limit so you can 
  cast it.  Once you have your spell ready, with point cost, you roll your dice and add it to your 
  skill and sub-attribute; if you pass, then you get your spell off. 
   
  Now that both people have their spells off who wins?  The way to figure out who wins is 
  simple.  One person will tell how many points of damage or defense their spell had and the GM 
  will figure out if that beats the attacker’s or defender’s spell.  If the attacking spell beats the 
  defending spell, then it works just like armor and the defense spell will absorb as many points as 
  it had for result.  If there are any points left in the attack, then the defense magic is dissolved and 
  it hits the desired target with the remaining damage.  If the defense spell has more points in its 
  result than the attacking spell, then the defense spell absorbs all of the damage and the defense 
  will then have however many points are left to defend with against another attack or until it 
  duration is up.  Here are two examples. 
   
  Example: 
   
  Corin is fighting off another mage.  They both have 2 actions; Corin uses his hold actions to 
  make a wall of earth hoping to block the spell.  His attacker puts 15 points of damage into the result and 
  
  rolls his dice.  The attacker succeeds at the spell and sends it hurling at Corin.  Corin, not knowing what 
  is being sent at him or how much damage it will cause, uses his 2 actions to make a quick counter spell of 
  earth with 25 points of defense.  Corin succeeds at making his wall and the wall takes the hit.  Corin’s 
  wall now has 10 points left in it until it runs out of duration or until it is hit again and 10 points of 
  damage is done to it. 
   
  Example 2: 
   
  Corin is fighting off another mage.  They both have 2 actions; Corin uses his hold actions to 
  make a wall of earth hoping to block the spell.  His attacker puts 25 points of damage into the result and 
  rolls his dice.  The attacker succeeds at the spell and sends it hurling at Corin.  Corin, not knowing what 
  is being sent at him or how much damage it will cause, uses his 2 actions to make a quick counter spell of 
  earth with 15 points of defense.  Corin succeeds at making his wall and the wall takes 15 points off of the 
  hit.  There is 10 points remaining from the attack, which made it through the defense, which will hit 
  Corin.   
   
   
  Now let’s talk about defending non-harmful magic or magic that does not cause any 
  damage to the person (at least 1 point of damage) magic.  Defending against non-harmful magic 
  works differently than harmful magic; when defending against a non-harmful spell one of your 
  main attributes will be use to try to block the spell.  If the person trying to cast the spell succeeds, 
  then your target number (TN) is whatever the point cost was.  You roll your 3 D12 and add that 
  total with your main attribute.  If you equal or beat the TN, then the spell has no result on you, 
  but if you total is less, then the spell has full result on you.  With non-harmful spells you do not 
  need to know it is coming; you always get a chance to block it if needed.  Any magic that is cast 
  at you but does not have direct damage result to you is considered to be a part of this group.  It 
  does not matter if you are using Sorcery spheres or Channeling spheres, what does matter is if 
  they hurt you or not.  If they do not inflict at least one point of damage then you use these rules, 
  and if the spell does at least 1 point of damage then you use the combat rules for defending.   
   
  The most common spheres to be used in this way are the fate, time, enchantment and love 
  spheres.  The fate sphere might be used against you to change your fate, the time sphere might be 
  used against you to slow you down or stop you in time all together, the love sphere might be 
  used against you to change your emotions.  What ever the reason they are used if the caster 
  succeeds at the spell you will have a chance to defend against it.  How is this possible you ask?  
  Well because living thing is in some small way inherently magical when magic is used on 
  someone that is non-harming (no damage done) the magic in you tries to defend.  So how do you 
  defend?  Well when a spell succeeds you roll your 3D12 plus the right main attribute.  If your 
  total equals or beats the spell total the spell has no affect on you.  If you get lower than the spell 
  total then the spell works on you.  Here is the list of what defends what: 
   
  Love sphere is defended with the Mental attribute 
  Transmutation is defended with Mental attribute 
   
  Time sphere is defended with the Magic attribute 
  Fate sphere is defended with the Magic attribute 
  Death is defended with Magic attribute 
   
  Enchantment is defended with Stamina attribute 
  Water is defended with Stamina attribute 
  
  Air is defended with Stamina attribute 
   
  Morphing is defended with Strength attribute 
  Earth is defended with Strength attribute 
   
  Anti-Magic is defend with Agility attribute 
  Fire is defended with Agility attribute 
   
   
  Healing is defended with Perception attribute 
  Divination is defended with Perception attribute 
   
  Spirit is defended with Social attribute 
  Summon is defended with Social attribute 
   
   
  
  FAILING A SPELL 
   
   
  Normally when you fail a spell nothing happens, the spell just fizzles out; but there are 
  two times when failing is detrimental and will harm you.  The first way is failing your spell by 
  10 points or more.  When the total from your dice, skill, and sub-attribute is 10 points lower then 
  you spell total, you get backlash.  During a backlash the forces of magic are so wildly out of 
  control that some of them turn against you before dissipating into nothing.  In game terms, you 
  take half of the result you were trying to do.  If you were trying a to send a fireball at somebody, 
  then you take half the damage; if you were trying to build a wall, then a part of it might fall on 
  you; if you were trying to slow down time on somebody, then you are slowed down for half the 
  duration.  The GM has the final say on what happens.  The second way magic is harmful to the 
  wielder is when you critically failed a spell.  Critically failing means you have lost control of the 
  magic and it lashes out on you; you then take the full result of what you were trying to do.  If you 
  were trying to enhance something for example, then you lose how much you were trying to 
  enhance.  Most of the time if you critically fail your character will probably die.  Magic is very 
  dangerous and if not wielded properly, then it takes out the wielder.  People who use magic need 
  to respect magic and only cast spells they think they can succeed with.  Magic is a very good 
  thing, but when abused it can turn deadly to the wielder.  You have been warned. 
  
  WHAT CAN YOU DO WITH MAGIC 
   
   
  Now comes the question what can you do with magic?  Almost anything, as long as you 
  have the spheres and the skill to cast it.  In GUILDS it is up to you to decide what to cast and 
  how to cast it.  Magic is free flowing and you can get the same result by using different spheres.  
  There are six charts that have different aspects of the spell to choose from.  From these charts 
  you build your spell from start to finish.  You can keep using the same spell over and over, but 
  this magic system was built to enable you to build a new spell every time you cast.  There are no 
  spells to memorize and no books to carry around.  There are spells which are taught so that you 
  can learn and have them at the ready, but the real fun is making your own.  Because magic is so 
  important over the eons it has been incorporated into daily life so buildings are raised using 
  magic, tools are made stronger or sharper to make plowing the fields easier, etc.  Magic is 
  everywhere and everybody knows of magic, but a lot of people still do not use magic.  
  Everybody who plays GUILDS will have at least a 4 in their main Magic attribute, so everybody 
  has the potential to cast magic.  Does the mean you have to cast magic?  No.  Plenty of people 
  decided, for one reason or another, that magic is bad or they are afraid of it, so they do not cast 
  magic.  There will be a lot of people with the healing sphere so that in battle they can heal 
  themselves, but other than that, never learned much about magic.  If you do not like how magic 
  is set up there is a section for a spell list, so you can just choose your spells and modify them if 
  you like.  The spell list is after the “how to build spells”. 
  In this section we will not only look at what the spheres do but also any special rules or 
  points a sphere might have outside of the main charts.  Let’s look at the 16 spheres so you have 
  an idea of what they are and what they do. 
   
  Most spells in the sorcery spheres use these charts: 
   
  Spontaneous or predetermined chart- for how long you are going to cast the spell 
  Duration chart- for how long the spell is going to last once cast 
  People/thing affected or area affect chart- for how many people or how big of an area you 
  want affected.  Normally you will only use one of the two charts 
  Range chart-for how far away you are going to cast your spell or how far you want your spell to 
  go 
  Result chart- How much result, normally damage in this case, do you want to cause 
   
   
  First let’s look at the Sorcery spheres. 
     
   
  Air: 
   
  The air sphere controls almost any type of gas, wind, air, or anything involving the air 
  around us.  You can make tornadoes or you can fly with the air sphere.  You can do many things 
  with the air sphere.  You can make the air so thick it becomes hard to breathe; you can suck the 
  air out of something; you can make gusts of wind so strong that they will blow people down or 
  knock arrows off their path. 
   
  Death: 
  
   
  The death sphere covers pain and poisons.  This sphere also covers the animating of 
  things like zombies and skeletons; as well as the decay of things.  You can cause things to wither 
  and die.  This is one of the 3 spheres to bring things back from the dead. 
   
   
  Earth: 
   
  The sphere of earth controls anything that is grounded to the earth or comes from the 
  earth: stones, ore, metals, and dirt.  The earth sphere can affect anything non-living that comes 
  from the ground.  The earth sphere also covers anything that grows from the ground.  With this 
  sphere you can build or tear down walls, make magical defenses, and making mining easier by 
  pulling out the ore.  Earth makes a great defense spheres because you are almost always around 
  it.  You can pull it from anywhere. 
   
  Anti-Magic: 
   
  While learning about magic people learned they could also create dead zones in magic.  
  This term became known as anti-magic.  With the anti-magic sphere you create areas where 
  magic cannot be used or nullifies magic being cast.  You can create anti-magic walls, armor, 
  weapons, or place it around your shop so people cannot steal from you. 
   
  Enchantment: 
  This gives the power to enhance another person, object, item, animal, or elemental, either 
  permanently or temporarily.  This sphere is always used with at least one other sphere.  You can 
  enhance almost anything.  After you are done enhancing something you will not know if it has 
  worked until it is used.  When enchanting anything you need to use at least 2 spheres.  The 
  enchantment sphere is one and you must use at least one other sphere for what you are going to 
  be enchanting the item with.  Like a sword that has a fireball spell in it.  You would use the 
  enchantment sphere and the fire sphere.   
   
  Fire: 
   
  The sphere of fire covers the ability to control and make fires of all types from candles to 
  bon fires.  A lot of people use the fire sphere to increase damage in their spells.  Fire is of the 
  most common spontaneous spheres for its damaging results.  You can control or make all types 
  of fires and burn things. 
   
  Healing: 
  With this sphere you have the power to heal yourself and others.  As long as it is alive 
  you can use the healing sphere on it.  With healing in game terms you can heal the locations or 
  you can heal everything at the same time. 
   
  Water: 
   
  The sphere of water covers anything that is made of water or simply contains water.  You 
  can only control the water in whatever you are working with.  Streams, oceans, ice, and steam 
  are just a few of the things you can control or make with the water sphere.  You can make it 
  snow, create a blizzard; or you can freeze water and make sharp, pointy ice shards to throw at 
  people. 
   
  
   
   
  Here are the Channeling spheres; 
   
  Most channeling spheres will use these charts: 
   
  Spontaneous or predetermined chart-for how long you are going to cast the spell 
  Duration chart- for how long the spell is going to last once cast 
  Duration chart- For how far back or forward you are seeing.  Yes you use the duration chart 
  twice. 
  Range chart-for how far away you are going to cast your spell or how far you want your spell to 
  go 
  Result chart- Normally you are just going to pay the one point in result to make the magic work. 
   
  Divination: 
  This sphere allows you to see the future or the past.  You can also see far away places or 
  places closer to home.  You can see events or follow a person.  With this sphere you need to 
  know what time you want to look at and where that place is.  When you use the divination sphere 
  you need to use the duration section twice; once for how long you want to look something and 
  second for when you are looking at.   
   
  Fate: 
   
  The Fate sphere is just that.  It is the sphere of luck and outcome.  When using this 
  sphere, you are never quite sure what will happen.  This sphere is used to control games of 
  chance and also to chance the outcome of an event or change fate.  When you use the fate sphere 
  it will also work as long as you make the roll, but something is always giving up in return.  Fate 
  does not like to have things put out of balance.  If you are using fate to see what happened to 
  something or someone, like divination then you are fine because you are not changing fate, you 
  are just seeing the fate of something or someone.  When you use fate to turn the tide of a war you 
  know you are going to lose then expect to have something taken in return.  It will also be said 
  that life is not the only thing taken.  Fate might take all of the gold in the area, or water, or 
  something you need to life off of as payment.  It will be up to the GM to say what the payment is 
  in return for using fate unwisely.  Fate does not have any normally spells because most of the 
  time when you use fate you are trying to alter something. 
   
  Love:  
   
  The love sphere can control emotions.  You can make someone fall in love with you or 
  make someone hate someone else.  You can make someone lustful, hateful, joyful, or sad.  You 
  could make someone think you are right and fight for your side.  You can turn emotions upside 
  down and make the person not sure that he is thinking.  The love sphere will cover all types of 
  emotions.  Love spells are countered by the Mental attribute. 
   
  Morphing: 
   
  The morphing sphere has two parts to it.  The first part is the ability to speak to animals.  
  By morphing ones brain waves and vocal patterns you can head and speak to animals.  With the 
  morphing sphere you can talk to any kind of animal and info out of them.  The 2nd part of the 
  morphing is the ability to morph into not only animals but other races (and your own race) too.  
  
  With morphing you can change part of yourself or all of your self.  When you morph you do not 
  gain that creatures or races bonuses unless you put the points into result to have them. 
   
  Spirit: 
  The Spirit sphere deals with the power of dealing with or speaking to the deceased.  
  When using this sphere you should try to know who you are going to be talking with before you 
  start this spell; because if you just call out to the spirits, you might not get who you wanted, and 
  not all spirits are friendly.  With this sphere you can find long lost people who have passed on 
  and talk with them.  You need to be careful because each spirit has its own personality and a lot 
  of them are not happy they are dead.  This is the second of three spheres needed to bring 
  something back from the dead.  
   
  Summon: 
  With this sphere you can call (pull) another person, object, item, animal, or elemental to 
  you.  There is two ways to summon something; to know what the thing is or to summon 
  something random.  The first one is to know what the thing you are summing is.  This can be the 
  exact piece or set of armor, an animal you know the name of, a exact person you want.  This is a 
  much more costly way to summon something because you have to know exactly where the 
  person, people, or thing is.  When you pay for range you are paying for how far away the person, 
  animal, or thing is to you.  The second way to do it is to summon something close to what you 
  want like a bear, or a women, or a suit of leather.  In this way you are only paying for range in 
  the area you are searching.  So for example if you only want to look one mile for something you 
  would only pay the price for one mile on the range chart.  When you are summing anything but a 
  exact item it might not work.  Even if you make your roll the thing, animal, or person just might 
  not be in your target area.  This is why it is random you might get something you might not. 
  If you are summoning a thing then you just follow the right charts and if you make your 
  roll it appears in front of you (if the thing you are looking for is in the target area).  If you are 
  summoning a person or animal it gets a little more tricky.  When you summon a person or animal 
  (both exact or random) you have to pay for there power level.  What we mean by power level is 
  how many hit points they have.  This is the total hit points the person thing has over all locations.  
  These extra points go in result for factoring how many points you need.  Please see the 
  summoning chart for more information.  
  All of the above information is based on if you are summoning something that is on this 
  world.  If you are summoning something from another realm then things are a little different.  
  For range you will always pay a flat rate of 7 points, no mater who you are summoning and from 
  which realm.  This is because all of the realms overlap here on our world and it is easier to get at. 
  The chart above is also need for result when summoning something from another realm.  So in 
  game terms you spell would look like this for summoning an elemental: 
   
  Spontaneous or predetermined chart  
  People/thing affect chart 
  Range chart- 7 points 
  Result chart- with points from chart above   
   
  The only time you should use the duration chart with summoning is when you are trying to hold 
  someone in place in a protection circle.  This will work for all things including elementals.  
  
  When drawing your circle you put in protective symbols and that set a barrier that should hold 
  them.  When you pay or the hit points that also covers what the circle can hold.  So you can pay 
  for a higher person just to make sure.   
   
   
  Time: 
   
  With the time sphere you can look both forward and backwards in time; you can also go 
  forward and backwards in time.  You can delay things from going off or speed up something; as 
  well as freezing things in time.  You can do many things with the time sphere, but be careful 
  because many, many mages have misused time and have been lost in time because of this sphere. 
   
  Transmutation: 
  With this sphere you have the power to turn one thing into something else. You can turn 
  gold into lead, or lead into gold.  You can turn a sword into paper, or paper into a sword.  As 
  long as it is not alive you can turn it into something else.  This will only work non-living things.  
  You need the morphing sphere to change living things. 
   
   
  
  HOW TO BUILD SPELLS 
   
   
  Now that you know how magic works it is time to figure out how to make the spells you 
  are casting.  Each sphere has a symbol, and with that symbol comes its power.  By adding or 
  taking away from the symbol you change what it can do.  The more powerful the spell, the more 
  complex it becomes.  When you draw this symbol outside of a circle the power cannot be 
  controlled and the magic runs wild; but when you add a circle to the symbol the user can control 
  the magic.  From this circle comes your power to control the magic; once the circle is drawn, 
  then you put the rest of the power into the spell and cast it.  There are many different ways to 
  cast magic, depending on how you were taught, but the one thing they all do is draw the symbol 
  and circle.  One of the most common ways it to speak the spell while writing it.  Every race has 
  given the symbols words and meanings; and found that most people learn it better if it is spoken 
  as well as drawn.  Some people do a dance after they draw the spell and feel that each move 
  helps bring out the spell.  However you choose to cast magic there are lots of ways to do it, but 
  the real and only way to cast the spell is with a circle and the right symbols.  If your circle is 
  disrupted or you lose concentration before your spell is done then your spell is broken and 
  you must start over. 
   
  It has been rumored that some people have learned to cast magic but speaking power 
  words, and some people have learned to cast magic by writing it.  But they are just rumors.   
  There is two ways to cast magic spontaneously or predetermined.  With spontaneous 
  magic it is very quick magic.  You think and then act or most of the time just act.  This is the 
  type of magic you use in combat.  With this type of casting you are casting your spell in 10 
  seconds or less.  When casting a spontaneous spell you will use the sphere and time chart as well 
  as at least 3 other charts.  Because this type of spell casting is so quick you cannot enlist the aid 
  of another mage.  If you think you can cast the spell go ahead just remember it is only you’re 
  skill, sub attribute, and 3 d12.  The other type of spell is the predetermined spell.  This type of 
  spell is normally done outside of combat due or just want to take longer to cast than 10 seconds.  
  With the predetermined spell you know how it is going to work and have everything planned out 
  ahead of time.  Because of the thought behind the spell you will use the predetermined spell chart 
  for your starting points and then at least 3 other charts to make this spell. 
  When making spells you have to use at least 4 out the 8 charts.  You must use the time 
  and sphere chart or the predetermined spell chart as a starting point for your spell; you also need 
  to have at least 1 point in result.  From there you need to choose at least 2 other charts to 
  complete your spell.  Most spells are going to use 5 charts, but some will use less and some 
  more.  Every spell needs to have at least 1 point in result to make it work.  You can also use the 
  same chart twice and count it as two charts.  We have tried to make casting a spell as easy as 
  possible but sometimes you might come across a question with your spell.  Your GM has the 
  final say on all questions with magic. 
  Let’s talk about how it works in rules terms; there are eight charts that make up the magic 
  system.  With these eight charts you will be able to make any kind of spell you want.  Let’s talk 
  about the charts and break them down so you understand them better.  The eight different charts 
  are spontaneous; predetermined; duration; people affected; range; area affect; Summoning, and 
  result (damage/healing/defense.) 
   
   
   
  
  The spontaneous chart is the first chart you have to look at to create your spell. 
   
  TIME 
    
  1
  2
  3
  4
  5
  6
  1
  15
  12
  9
  6
  3
  0
  2
  18
  15
  12
  9
  6
  3
  3
  21
  18
  15
  12
  9
  6
  4
  24
  21
  18
  15
  12
  9
  5
  27
  24
  21
  18
  15
  12
  6
  30
  27
  24
  21
  18
  15
  7
  33
  30
  27
  24
  21
  18
  Spheres 
  8
  36
  33
  30
  27
  24
  21
   
   
  From this chart you will get your base points it takes to cast and modify those points with 
  the other charts.  If you look at the chart (see below) you will see spheres (on the side) range 
  from 1 to 8 and time (on top) go from 1 to 6.  The spheres are how many spheres you are casting 
  in one spell.  You can cast a one sphere spell all the way up to 8 sphere spell.  If you are asking 
  well there are 16 spheres why can I not cast more than 8 spheres at one time?  Well the answer is 
  because you should never need to cast more than 8 spheres in one spell.  We have tried to think 
  of how many spheres could be in one spell and not overlap one another in a real manor.  We 
  could not come up with more than 6 spheres in spell.  The other part of this chart is time.  Time 
  is in actions, which will equal no more than one turn or 10 seconds.  Now if you have 6 actions 
  and want to spend all of them in one turn you may.  Naturally to say most, magic casters are 
  agile.  Now you find, on the side, how many spheres you want to use and, on the top, how long it 
  takes you to cast your spell and where those meet is your starting spell cost in points.  Here are a 
  few examples. 
   
  If you wanted to have 4 spheres and take 6 turns it would cost you 12 points. 
  If you want to have 1 sphere take you 3 turns it would cost 12 points. 
  If you wanted to have 2 spheres and take it 5 turns it would cost 9 points. 
   
  After you have your base points you can move through the rest of the charts as you see fit.   
   
  Here is the predetermined casting chart. 
   
  PREDETERMINED SPELL
  5 minutes 
  15 points 
  10 minutes 
  10 points 
  15 minutes 
  5 points 
  30 minutes 
  0 points 
  1 hour 
  - 5 points 
  5 hours 
  -10 points 
  10 hours 
  -15 points 
  15 hours 
  -20 points 
  24 hours 
  -25 points 
   
  
   
  The predetermined spell chart because it is the only other chart you should ever start with 
  and only if you are taking longer than 6 seconds.  After this chart we will move on to the chart 
  you should use next and how we made our spells.  The predetermined spell chart is a lot like the 
  spontaneous chart.  If you are going to take longer than 6 turns you need to use this chart and not 
  the spheres and time chart.  Like the other chart, this chart will give you your starting points for 
  your spell and you can move on after this chart is done.  NEVER USE THE PREDETERMINED 
  SPELL CHART AND THE SPONTANEOUS CHART TOGETHER ON THE SAME SPELL.  
  You should never need to use more then 6 out of the 8 charts.  The main difference in this chart 
  over the spheres and time chart is that it does not matter how many spheres you are using.  The 
  points come from how much time you are taking to cast the spell.  The longer you take, the less it 
  will cost; because you are being more careful with the magic.  Once you find how long it will 
  take you to cast the spell the point value will be next to it.  Those points are now your base points 
  for making your spell. 
   
  The next chart is the duration chart.   
   
  DURATION 
  Instant 
  1 points 
  1 turn 
  2 point 
  2 turns 
  3 points 
  3 turns 
  4 points 
  4 turns 
  5 points 
  5 turns 
  6 points 
  1 minute 
  8 points 
  5 minutes 
  9 points 
  15 minutes 
  10 points
  30 minutes 
  11 points
  3 hours 
  13 points
  8 hours 
  15 points
  16 hours 
  17 points
  2 days 
  19 points
  5 days 
  21 points
  10 days 
  23 points
  1 month 
  25 points
  3 months 
  27 points
  6 months 
  29 points
  1 year 
  31 points
  permanently 33 points
   
  Duration is how long you want your spell to last.  If you look at the chart you can see you 
  can choose durations ranging from instant to permanent.  You simply find the duration you want 
  and the point value will be next to it.  Add these points to your base points and move on to the 
  next chart.  Duration also covers how long you want to view something in case of divination.  If 
  your spell does damage over a period of time then the damage is spread up among the time.  For 
  example if you wanted your fireball to last 5 turns and do 10 points of damage then each turn the 
  fireball would burn for 2 points of damage.  If your spell has both a duration longer than instant 
  
  and more than 1 person affected then when splitting then you not only split the damage over the 
  number of people but then you split the damage of the duration.  For example if you hit 5 people 
  with a fireball and wanted the fire ball to burn for 2 turns you would first spilt the damage over 
  the number of people.  Because the spell did 10 points of damage over 5 people every person 
  would take 2 points of damage.  Now that 2 points of damage is split over the duration time, 
  which in this case is 2 turns.  So every person the spell hit would take 1 point of damage a turn 
  for 2 turns. 
     
  Next on are chart list is people affected. 
   
  PEOPLE AFFECTED 
  1 person 
  1 point 
  2 people  
  2 points 
  3 people 
  3 points 
  4 people 
  4 points 
  5 people 
  5 points 
  6 people 
  6 points 
  7 people 
  7 points 
  8 people 
  8 points 
  9 people 
  9 points 
  10 people 
  10 points
  11-24 people 
  12 points
  25-49 people 
  13 points
  50-99 people 
  14 points
  100-199 people 16 points
  200 people + 
  18 points
   
  This chart deals with how many people/ things/or locations you want your spell to affect.  
  The chart ranges from one person/things/locations to 200 plus people/things/locations.  You 
  choose how many people/things/locations you want to affect and the point value will be next to 
  it.  If you do not want to affect anybody and just want to blow up the ground or something, then 
  you do not need to use this chart.  You only need to use the chart if you are going to hit at least 
  one person/thing/location.  In case of spells of protection where you do not want an area covered, 
  you could pay for the number of people you want to protect and then use this chart again to pay 
  for locations on that person you want protected.  Then they would not have a shield they would 
  have a little more armor or something.  When you pay for people/thing/location affected you 
  need to be careful for it might hit you as well.  Most of the time you should not need to use this 
  chart with the area affect chart.  When we talk about location affected we are talking about things 
  like body locations, armor locations, locations on a cart.  Anything that has more than one 
  moving part can be broken down into locations.  So you could affect all of the locations or just 
  some of the locations.  Most of the time you will use one or the other but seldom both.  Like the 
  duration chart damage will be spread out over all of the people caught in your spell.  For 
  example if you put 20 points of damage into your spell and you wanted to affect 5 people then 
  each person would take 4 points of damage.  If your spell has both a duration longer than instant 
  and more than 1 person affected then when splitting then you not only split the damage over the 
  number of people but then you split the damage of the duration.  For example if you hit 5 people 
  
  with a fireball and wanted the fire ball to burn for 2 turns you would first spilt the damage over 
  the number of people.  Because the spell did 10 points of damage over 5 people every person 
  would take 2 points of damage.  Now that 2 points of damage is split over the duration time, 
  which in this case is 2 turns.  So every person the spell hit would take 1 point of damage a turn 
  for 2 turns. 
   
  Range is the next chart we will look at.   
   
  RANGE 
  Personal 
  2 points 
  10 feet 
  4 points 
  15 feet 
  6 points 
  30 feet 
  8 points 
  60 feet 
  10 points 
  80 feet 
  12 points 
  100 feet 
  14 points 
  130 feet 
  16 points 
  150 feet 
  18 points 
  200 feet 
  20 points 
  1/2 mile  
  22 points 
  1 mile 
  24 points 
  5 mile 
  26 points 
  15 miles 
  28 points 
  20 miles 
  30 points 
  30 miles + 
  32 points 
   
  The range chart will determine how far your spell will go to hit the intended target.  This 
  chart ranges from personal to 30 plus miles.  Range also covers the range you want your spell to 
  last.  For example if you build a wall of fire and want it to travel 1 mile then this is covered in 
  range as well.  In this case you start where you are at but you want it to travel a distance not go a 
  distance then go off.  You will need to ask the GM how far your target is away from you and find 
  out the point value for that range.   
   
  Area affect is the next chart we will look at. 
   
  AREA AFFECT 
  1 foot 
  2 points 
  1 yard 
  4 points 
  2 yards 
  6 points 
  4 yards 
  8 points 
  7 yards 
  10 points 
  10 yards 
  12 points 
  50 feet 
  14 points 
  100 feet 
  16 points 
  200 feet 
  18 points 
  400 feet 
  20 points 
  
  800 feet 
  22 points 
   
   
  The area affect chart goes over how large an area you want to cover.  Sometimes you just 
  want to hit an area instead of a number of people.  If you use the area affect chart then you hit 
  everything in that area including you self and you team if you are not careful.  Area affect spells 
  also hit all locations and do the same amount of damage/protection to all locations.   
   
  The Summoning chart is the next to last chart. 
   
  Summoning chart  
    
    
    
  0-9 hit points  
    
    
  2 points 
  10-19 hit points 
   
    
  3 points 
  20-29 hit points/small weapons   
  4 points 
  30-39 hit points/medium weapons 
  5 points 
  40-49 hit points/large weapons   
  6 points 
  50-59 hit points/huge weapons    
  7 points 
  60-69 hit points 
   
    
  8 points 
  70-79 hit points  
   
    
  9 points 
  80-89 hit points  
   
    
  10 points 
  90-99 hit points 
   
    
  11 points 
  100-115 hit points  
   
    
  12 points 
  116-129 hit points  
   
    
  13 points 
  130-149 hit points  
   
    
  14 points 
  150-169 hit points  
   
    
  15 points 
  170-199 hit points  
   
    
  16 points 
  200 + hit points  
    
    
  17 points 
   
   
   
  The chart will only be used if you are summoning something.  If your spell does not 
  include the summoning sphere skip this part and move on to result chart.  This chart covers all 
  things summoned from people to armor.  When using this chart to summon a person you are 
  summoning by how many hit points that person has.  When using the summoning chart to 
  summon armor then you use the defense value of the piece you are trying to summon.  If you 
  want the whole armor then you add up all of the values.  If you are trying to steal from a shop 
  keep in mind that most shop owners “ground” their stuff when they leave.  When you ground 
  something you put an earth spell on it to keep it from going anywhere.  Remember that if you are 
  summoning something from a different plane the range costs 7 points.   
   
  The last chart is the result (Damage/Healing/Defense) chart.   
   
  Damage/Healing/Defense 
  Point for point.  Every point of result you wish to inflict on something costs one point. 
  For example if you want to do 15 points of result it would cost 15 points. 
   
   
  
  The result chart covers everything that is needed on a point for point basis.  The main 
  things this chart will be used for is for damage, healing, and defense.  You will also use this chart 
  for anything that you want to use to enhance something.  If you wanted to be “more stealthy” by 
  a spell you would make your armor less noisy or cover your footstep sounds.  You would use 
  points in result to add to your dice roll.  So if you point 10 points into result you would add 10 
  points to your Stealth roll (as long as you made you spell roll.)  There are many other ways to 
  use result besides damage.  If you wanted to use the time sphere to freeze somebody in time and 
  you wanted to make sure the magic gets him you could add points into result to beef up the spell.  
  The more points in a spell, the harder it will be for them to get out of it.  The result chart is the 
  catch all for all of the last points you want to put into the spell to make it go off like you wanted.  
  Be careful though because if you add too many points you fail the spell and then nothing 
  happens. 
  The way you use this chart (ok, so it is not a real chart) is you need to figure out how 
  many points of result you want to do and that is how many points it costs.  This chart is where 
  most of your points are going to go; so when making your spells you need to think about how 
  many points are reasonable.  You need to have at least 1 point of result in every spell you make.  
  Here are a few examples. 
   
  If you wanted to heal 10 points of damage it would cost 10 points. 
  If you wanted to raise a wall to protect yourself and wanted to put 20 points in it, then the cost 
  would be 20 points. 
  If you wanted to make a fireball that would do 15 points of damage, then it would cost 15 points. 
   
   
  All spells need at least 1 points of result to make the spell work.  In case where your spell 
  has a duration longer than instant or 1 turn, you pay for the full damage over the whole duration.  
  For example if you wanted to do 40 points of damage over 10 turns then you would need 40 
  points of result and it would do 4 points of damage a turn. 
   
  So you have picked through the list you have your points all totaled up; you now have a 
  spell the world will talk about for the next 5 minutes.  Once you have finished finding the total 
  for each of the charts, add all the points up and come up with your total.  This total your spell 
  cost (the number of points in your spell.)  That total number is now the target number (TN) you 
  have to try to equal or beat with your magic skill, your sub-attribute, and your 3 D12 roll.  Now 
  is the time when you need to look at your spell and see if it will be reasonable for you to cast.  If 
  you do not think you will be able to make the TN, then you may want to make some adjustments 
  now.  It is best to try to come up with the spell before your turn, that way when it is your turn 
  you can tell the GM what you are doing and be ready to roll.  
   
  It needs to be said that once you make you TN your spell goes off.  If the person you are 
  trying to hit moves or somehow gets out of the way your spell is going to go the distance you 
  gave it and go off.  If someone else moves into that space then they will be hit.  If nobody is in 
  that space then it still goes off.  Also if your spell gets interrupted before you are finish and you 
  stop casting then your spell is gone and you have to start over.  You can also stop you spell and 
  any time before it has gone off. 
  Let’s come up with a few spells know so you see how easy it is to do.  The first one will 
  be a basic fireball.  I will be using 1 sphere, fire, and I want to take 5 turns to cast; I want to do 
  this to keep the points low so I can put more points into damage.  I am taking a risk with the 
  number of turns because if I lose concentration or my circle gets messed up I have to start over.  
  
  Looking over the charts I see the cost from the first chart will be 3 points.  Next I look at 
  duration; my spell does not need to last very long so I will choose instant duration.  It is either 
  will hit or not.  This will cost me 1 point.  I wish to affect one person so it will cost me 1 point.  I 
  do not need the out of combat casting chart so I move onto range.  The person is 100 feet away 
  and that will cost me 14 points.  The last chart is my result chart; I wish to do a lot of damage in 
  case the person I am attempting to hit puts up a wall.  I have decided that with this spell I want to 
  cause 25 points of damage.  So let’s look at the numbers more carefully. 
   
  1 sphere: 5 turns to cast 
  3 points 
  Instant duration 
  1 points 
  Affecting one person 
  1 point 
  100 feet away 
  14 points 
  Result: 25 points of damage 
  25 points 
                                               --------------- 
   
  Total 44 points 
   
   
  The total cost of my spell is 44 points so now my target number to make this spell work is 44. 
   
  Let’s do another spell.  I want to freeze 6 people, who are attacking me, for 5 turns to give me 
  the chance to escape.  Once again it is a 1 sphere spell, but this time I need to cast immediately; I 
  have 2 actions and am going to use both actions to cast this costing 12 points as your base.  Next 
  I look at duration.  As I have said I need to freeze them for 5 rounds so I can run; 5 turns will 
  cost me 6 points.  Next I look at the people affected chart and I need to freeze 6 people so that 
  will cost me 6 more points.  Looking at range I decide to cast this one at 10 feet to make sure I 
  get all of them; this will cost me 4 points.  I do not need the out of combat casting chart so I 
  move on to result.  For this spell I need my minimum 1 point in result to make the spell work.  If 
  someone wanted to try to break this spell they would use their main attribute of Strength and 
  would have to beat my spell point total cost.  So let’s look at the points. 
   
  1 sphere: 2 actions to cast 
  12 points 
  5 turn duration 
  6 points 
  Affecting 6 people 
  6 points 
  10 feet range 
  4 points 
  Result: 1 point                               1 point 
                                              -------------------- 
   
  Total 29 points 
   
  The total cost for this spell is 29 points and my TN is now 29.  If I wanted to make it hard for 
  them to break out I could throw more points in the Result chart to make the ice thicker.  
   
  We are going to do a more complex spell that will combine the first two spells.  I want to make a 
  fireball with a block of ice in the middle.  This is a two part spell, but it is just as easy to make.  
  The fireball part will have an result so it will damage the group and the ice will freeze them.  We 
  are going to take the above example with freezing them for 5 turns and there are six people, but 
  this time I want to add damage to them first with the fireball.  We are now looking at a 2 sphere 
  spell, but I still need to cast it in 2 actions; so the base cost is 15 points.  Next I look at the 
  
  duration, which is the same, 6 points.  Next is how many people affected which stays the same, 
  costing 6 points for 6 people.  I look at range and still need it to be 10 feet; again costing 4 
  points.  I still do not need the out of combat casting chart so I skip that part.  The result is for the 
  fireball part of my spell and I need it to cause damage.  I already have a 28 to 30 point spell and 
  need to be careful not to put too many points into result; at the same time, I need to have enough 
  points to make them hurt a little.  I decide to put 15 points into the spell making it risky that I 
  will not get it off but I need to take that risk.  So let’s look at the total so far. 
   
  2 spheres at 2 actions 
  15 points 
  5 turn duration 
  6 points 
  Affecting 6 people 
  6 points 
  10 feet range 
  4 points 
  Result: 15 points of damage 
  15 points 
                                            ------------------- 
   
  Total 46 points 
   
  The total is 46 points for this spell but if I get it off and they do not defend then not only are they 
  frozen for 5 turns but they take 15 points of damage while I run away.  The 15 points of damage 
  will be split up by duration or by people affected.  Choose if you want it split over the 5 turns or 
  the 6 people not both. 
   
  A few final notes here: have fun with the spells and try new ways you come up with them 
  and see what you can do, the possibilities are nearly endless.  Remember that most people will 
  have at least the healing sphere so whatever you can do they might be able to do back at you.  
  When creating your circle it must be made upon something you can draw on: dirt, sand, earth, 
  the air, water, or even chili.  As long as you can draw on the surface you can make your spell.  
  As you draw the signs and symbols within the circle it becomes brighter and more magical as 
  you get closer to being finished. 
  
  DEATH AND MAGIC 
   
   
  So your character died and you want him back?  This might not be that uncommon since 
  weapons and magic are very deadly in this game.  Luckily for you there is a way to bring your 
  character back from the dead.  Resurrections are possible in GUILDS through the use of magic.  
  This is much harder to do than most spells and is the only spell that requires 3 spheres: death, 
  spirit, and healing.  You cannot mix and match spheres; these are the only spheres you can use.  
  When attempting a resurrection you have to use all 3 spheres and the length of time they have 
  been dead is the time on the duration chart.  The longer they are dead, the harder it will be to 
  bring them back.  Resurrections are so difficult and so necessary that there is a guild dedicated to 
  them.  That is the Clerics’ guild.  The Clerics’ guild is a highly sought for their healing and life 
  bringing abilities.  Unlike in other games these clerics only heal and bring people back to life.  
  Besides joining people in conquests, a section of the Clerics’ guild goes out to the local towns 
  surrounding their city once a week, month, or whatever their routine is and, for those who can 
  pay or barter, bring back loved ones.  As you can see, many people have become rich by being 
  able to resurrect.  In fact some of the wealthiest guilds are the Clerics’ guilds. 
   
  You can only attempt resurrection twice when someone dies.  If the resurrection fails 
  twice on one body (in a span of one week) then the chances that it can be resurrected becomes 
  slim; the body and the spirit must wait at least 3 years before a resurrection, and yes the cleric 
  must pay for those 3 years in his spell.  When trying to resurrect someone, you must heal all of 
  their points of health.  You cannot heal somebody part way in a resurrection it is all or nothing.  
  If the spirit is unwilling to go back into the body (after two tries,) then the resurrection fails and 
  no other attempts may be made for at least 3 years.  When resurrecting someone you are finding 
  the lost soul and putting it back into its body.  You are also reanimating the body and finally 
  putting health (life) back into the body, which is why it requires the 3 certain spheres. 
  
  MULTIPLE CASTERS 
   
   
  If you want to cast a spell that has a higher difficulty then you can manage, then you can 
  ask a second mage, or more to help.  There can be multiple casters for larger, more complex 
  spells.  When two or more mages cast one spell you have you main spell caster, which is the one 
  who cast that main part of the spell.  Then you have all of the other mages helping out the main 
  caster with their part of the spell.  In order to have another mage help you cast a spell, they have 
  to have a sphere that can help your spell.  They must have either the same sphere you are using, 
  or have another sphere to help your spell.  What does all of this mean in game terms?  Well you 
  have your main spell caster and he will get a normal roll with 3 D12, plus his skill, plus the right 
  sub attribute.  Any other mage helping the skill will get 1 D12 to roll and add to the total, to help 
  the spell. 
  
  MELEE WEAPONS 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  WEAPON 
  DAMAGE COST(gp) 
  WT (lb) 
  SIZE LENGTH (in) ACTIONS 
  STR AGI TYPE 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Athame 
  1 
  3 
  1 
  S 
  8 - 10 
  1 
  3 
  4 
  P/S 
  Dagger 
  2 
  2 
  1 
  S 
  6 - 12 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  P/S 
   
  Mangouch 
  3 
  5 
  2 
  S 
  12 - 18 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  P 
   
  Fighting Knife 
  4 
  4 
  1.5 
  S 
  8 - 18 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  P/S 
   
  Hatchet 
  3 
  2 
  2 
  S 
  10 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  C/B 
  Small Hammer 
  3 
  3 
  4 
  S 
  8- 10 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  B 
   
  Sap 
  KO? 
  1 
  0.5 
  S 
  6 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  B 
   
  Fist Load 
  1 
  1 
  0.5 
  S 
  4 
  2 
  3 
  3 
  B 
   
  Katar 
  3 
  8 
  2 
  M 
  18 
  2 
  3 
  5 
  P 
   
  Short Sword 
  5 
  5 
  3 
  M 
  24 
  2 
  4 
  4 
  P/S 
   
  Broad Sword 
  8 
  8 
  5 
  M 
  36 - 42 
  2 
  5 
  5 
  P/S 
   
  Scimitar 
  8 
  12 
  5 
  M 
  36 
  2 
  5 
  5 
  P/S 
   
  Sham Shir 
  7 
  15 
  4 
  M 
  40 
  2 
  4 
  4 
  P/S 
   
  Falchion 
  10 
  15 
  6 
  M 
  38 
  2 
  5 
  5 
  C 
   
  Gladius 
  4 
  12 
  3 
  M 
  24 
  2 
  4 
  3 
  P 
   
  Rapier 
  6 
  10 
  2 
  M 
  36 - 42 
  3 
  2 
  6 
  P/S 
   
  Epee 
  6 
  8 
  1.5 
  M 
  36 - 40 
  3 
  2 
  7 
  P 
  Saber 
  7 
  8 
  2 
  M 
  30 
  2 
  2 
  3 
  S 
   
  Cutlass 
  7 
  9 
  3 
  M 
  24 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  S 
   
  Club 
  4 
  1 
  2 
  M 
  36 
  2 
  2 
  2 
  B 
   
  Mace 
  5 
  5 
  4 
  M 
  24 
  2 
  3 
  3 
  B 
   
  Hammer 
  6 
  5 
  6 
  M 
  18 
  2 
  5 
  4 
  B 
   
  Axe 
  5 
  7 
  4 
  M 
  18 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  C 
  Morning Star 
  4 
  10 
  2.5 
  M 
  18 
  2 
  5 
  7 
  P 
   
  Flail 
  4 
  10 
  2.5 
  M 
  18 
  2 
  5 
  7 
  B 
  1.5 Hand Sword 
  10 
  18 
  7 
  L 
  50+ 
  1 
  7 
  7 
  P/S 
   
  Two Hand Sword 
  13 
  20 
  10 
  L 
  60+ 
  1 
  8 
  8 
  P/S 
   
  Flamberge 
  9 
  19 
  7 
  L 
  60+ 
  1 
  6 
  7 
  P/S 
   
  Quarter Staff 
  4 
  3 
  2 
  L 
  60+ 
  2 
  5 
  5 
  B 
   
  Maul 
  16 
  5 
  15 
  L 
  50+ 
  0 
  9 
  5 
  B 
   
  Two Hand Mace 
  14 
  15 
  10 
  L 
  55+ 
  0 
  8 
  6 
  B 
   
  War Hammer 
  12 
  15 
  8 
  L 
  72 
  0 
  8 
  6 
  P/B 
   
  Two Hand Flail 
  8 
  15 
  5 
  L 
  300 
  0 
  6 
  9 
  B 
   
  2.Hand Morning Star 8 
  15 
  5 
  L 
  300 
  0 
  6 
  9 
  P 
   
  Battle Axe 
  12 
  18 
  10 
  L 
  60 
  0 
  8 
  8 
  C 
   
  Great Axe 
  15 
  20 
  14 
  L 
  60 
  0 
  10 
  8 
  C 
   
  Spear 
  5 
  6 
  3 
  L 
  72 - 120 
  2 
  5 
  7 
  P/B 
   
  Trident 
  5 
  8 
  3 
  L 
  72 
  1 
  5 
  7 
  P/B 
   
  Halberd 
  11 
  13 
  8 
  L 
  156 
  0 
  8 
  7 
  P/B 
   
  Glaive 
  9 
  10 
  6 
  L 
  96 - 120 
  1 
  7 
  7 
  P/C/B 
   
  Whip 
  2 
  6 
  1.5 
  L 
  108 - 240 
  2 
  3 
  10 
  special  
  H. Broad Sword 
  12 
  18 
  7 
  H 
  50 
  1 
  7 
  7 
  P/S 
   
  H. 1.5 Hand Sword 
  15 
  20 
  10 
  H 
  60 
  0 
  8 
  8 
  P/S 
   
  Huge 2 Hand Sword 18 
  45 
  16 
  H 
  72 
  0 
  10 
  8 
  P/S 
   
  Huge Battle Axe 
  15 
  20 
  14 
  H 
  60 
  0 
  10 
  8 
  C 
   
  Huge Great Axe 
  20 
  50 
  20 
  H 
  72 
  0 
  12 
  9 
  C 
   
  Huge 2 Hand Mace 
  19 
  30 
  15 
  H 
  55 
  0 
  8 
  6 
  B 
   
  Huge Club 
  8 
  10 
  13 
  H 
  50 
  0 
  9 
  6 
  B 
   
  Huge Spear 
  12 
  48 
  10 
  H 
  120 – 144 
  1 
  9 
  8 
  P/B
  
  THROWN WEAPONS 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  WEAPONS 
  DAMAGE 
  RANGE (ft) 
  COST WEIGHT (lbs) 
  LENGTH (in) SIZE ACTONS STR AGI TYPE    
   
  Knife 
  2 
  15 
  2 
  1 
  6 
  S 
  2 
  3 
  5 
  P 
   
  Axe 
  3 
  20 
  2 
  2 
  8 
  S 
  1 
  4 
  4 
  C 
   
   
   
   
  Dart 
  1 
  25 
  1 
  0.25 
  5 
  S 
  3 
  3 
  5 
  P 
   
   
   
  Hammer 
  3 
  20 
  3 
  4 
  8 
  S 
  1 
  5 
  4 
  B 
   
   
   
   
  Spear 
  5 
  30 
  6 
  3 
  72 
  L 
  1 
  6 
   7 
  P 
   
   
   
   
  Javelin 
  4 
  50 
  5 
  2 
  72 
  L 
  1 
  5 
   6 
  P 
   
   
   
   
  1lb Object 
  2 
  20 
  na 
  1 
  na 
  S 
  2 
  3 
   3 
  B 
   
   
  5lb Object 
  3 
  15 
  na 
  5 
  na 
  S 
  1 
  4 
   3 
  B 
   
   
   
  10lb Object 
  5 
  10 
  na 
  10 
  na 
  S 
  1 
  5 
   4 
  B 
   
   
   
   
  25lb Object 
  10 
  5 
  na 
  25 
  na 
  M 
  0 
  8 
   7 
  B 
   
   
   
   
  50lb Object 
  20 
  5 
  na 
  50 
  na 
  M 
  -1 
  13 
   10 
  B 
   
   
   
  Short Sword 
  5 
  15 
  5 
  3 
  24 
  M 
  1 
  6 
   5 
  P 
   
   
   
   
  Broad Sword 
  8 
  15 
  8 
  5 
  34 – 40 
  M 
  1 
  7 
   6 
  P 
   
   
   
   
  Battle Axe 
  12 
  15 
  18 
  10 
  60 
  L 
  1 
  8 
   7 
  C 
   
   
   
   
  War Hammer 
  12 
  15 
  15 
  8 
  60 
  L 
  1 
  8 
   7 
  B 
   
   
   
  Mace 
  5 
  20 
  5 
  4 
  24 
  M 
  1 
  5 
   4 
  B 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  RANGED WEAPONS 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  RANGE 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  WEAPONS 
  AMMO 
  DAMAGE      COST (ea)        WT (lbs)     LTH (in)  ACTIONS 
  STR 
  AGI       TYPE        short 
  med 
  long 
  ext 
   
   
   
   
  Sling 
   
   
   
  2 
  0.1 
  24 
  1 
  3 
  4 
   
  15 
  25 
  35 
  45 
   
   
   
   
   
     
   Stone 
  1 
  0.1 
  0.2 
  0.25 
   
   
   
  B 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
               Lead bullet     2 
  0.25 
  0.3 
  0.25 
   
   
   
  B 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Short Bow  
   
   
  15 
  4 
  36 
  2 
  5 
  5 
   
  30 
  45 
  60 
  90 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Flight 
  2 
  0.1 
  0.2 
  36 
  +1 
   
   
  P 
  50 
  85 
  120 
  155 
   
   
   
  Sheaf 
  3 
  0.5 
  0.2 
  36 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Field 
  2 
  0.25 
  0.2 
  36 
   
   
   
  B 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
                Broad Tip 
  5 
  0.5 
  0.2 
  36 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
                Frog Catch 4 
  0.5 
  0.2 
  36 
  -1 
   
   
  S 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Long Bow  
   
   
  25 
  7 
  72 
  2 
  7 
  6 
   
  50 
  85 
  120 
  155 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Flight 
  2 
  0.1 
  0.2 
  36 
  +1 
   
   
  P 
  80 
  120 
  160 
  200 
   
   
   
   
   
  Sheaf 
  3 
  0.5 
  0.2 
  36 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Field 
  2 
  0.25 
  0.2 
  36 
   
   
   
  B 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
                Broad Tip 
  5 
  0.5 
  0.2 
  36 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
               Frog Catch 
  4 
  0.5 
  0.2 
  36 
  -1 
   
   
  S 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Recurve Bow 
   
   
  45 
  6 
  60 
  3 
  6 
  6 
   
  40 
  80 
  120 
  160 
   
   
   
  Flight 
  2 
  0.1 
  0.2 
  36 
  +1 
   
   
  P 
  60 
  100 
  140 
  200 
   
   
   
  Sheaf 
  3 
  0.5 
  0.2 
  36 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Field 
  2 
  0.25 
  0.2 
  36 
   
   
   
  B 
   
   
   
   
   
   
                                  Broad Tip 
  5 
  0.5 
  0.2 
  36 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
                                  Frog Catch 4 
  0.5 
  0.2 
  36 
  -1 
   
   
  S 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Light Crossbow 
   
   
  30 
  10 
  24 
  1 
  6 
  4 
   
  40 
  65 
  90 
  110 
   
   
   
  
  Bolt 
  3 
  0.25 
  0.2 
  12 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Quarrel 
  4 
  4 
  12 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Medium Crossbow 
   
   
  55 
  15 
  24 
  1 
  7 
  4 
   
  50 
  75 
  100 
  125 
   
   
  Bolt 
  5 
  0.25 
  0.2 
  12 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Quarrel 
  6 
  0.5 
  0.4 
  12 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Heavy Crossbow 
   
   
  90 
  20 
  24 
  1 
  9 
  5 
   
  80 
  120 
  160 
  200 
   
   
  Bolt 
  6 
  0.25 
  0.2 
  12 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Quarrel 
  7 
  0.5 
  0.4 
  12 
   
   
   
  P 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  STR Range Bonus AGI    Attack Bonus 
  2 
  25% 
      2 
  -3 
  3 
  50% 
      3 
  -2 
  4 
  75% 
      4 
  -1 
  5 
  0 
      5 
  0 
  6 
  0 
      6 
  0 
  7 
  0 
      7 
  0 
  8 
  x2 
      8 
  1 
  9 
  x2 
      9 
  1 
  10 
  x2 
     10 
  1 
  11 
  x3 
     11 
  2 
  12 
  x3 
     12 
  2 
  13 
  x3 
     13 
  2 
  14 
  x4 
    14 
  3 
  15 
  x4 
    15 
  3 
  16 
  x5 
    16 
  4 
   
   
  Lead bullet 
   
   
   
  Costs more but more accurate 
  Stone 
   
   
   
                Easiest ammo to locate 
   
  Frog Catch 
  Has a rounded blade on the tip 
   
  Broad Tip 
  Hunting tip, multiple blades 
   
  Field 
  Blunt tip used to hunt small animals  
  Sheaf 
  Really pointed tips, armor punch 
   
  Flight 
  Made lighter for farther travel 
  Bolt 
  Wooden shaft, no good penetrating  
   
  Quarrel    
   
   
   
  Iron Shaft, goes through anything  
   
  The range bonus is how much further your projectile can go.  Only slings, bows, and thrown objects can use this bonus; crossbow 
  cannot not.
  
   
   
   
  NON MAGICAL 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Padded 
  Head 
  5s 
  1/2 
  1 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Torso 
  20s 
  4 
  2 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  7s 
  1 
  1 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  10s 
  2 
  1 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  2g 
  10.5 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Hide 
  Head 
  2g 
    
  1 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Torso 
  4g 
    
  3 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  1g 
    
  1 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  2g 
    
  2 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  10g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Leather 
  Head 
  3g 
    
  2 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Torso 
  8g 
    
  4 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  2g 
    
  3 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  4g 
    
  3 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  20g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Studed 
  Head 
  4g 
    
  3 
   
   
   
   
   
  Leather 
  Torso 
  16g 
    
  5 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  4g 
    
  4 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  8g 
    
  4 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  40g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Ring 
  Torso 
  23g 
    
  5 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  5g 
    
  3 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  8g 
    
  3 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  45g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Chain 
  Head 
  6g 
    
  4 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Torso 
  55g 
    
  6 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  10g 
    
  5 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  12g 
    
  5 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  100g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Scale 
  Torso 
  150g 
    
  7 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  35g 
    
  6 
   
   
   
  
   
   
    
  Legs 
  45g 
    
  6 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  300g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Brigandine 
  Torso 
  230g 
    
  8 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  45g 
    
  7 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  50g 
    
  7 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  400g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Lamallarr 
  Torso 
  230g 
    
  8 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  45g 
    
  7 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  50g 
    
  7 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  400g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Coat of 
  Torso 
  500g 
  10 
  10 
   
   
   
   
   
  Plates 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Half Plate 
  Head 
  100g 
    
  5 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Torso 
  400g 
    
  12 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  135g 
    
  9 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  160g 
    
  10 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  1,000g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Full Plate 
  Head 
  250g 
    
  7 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Torso 
  900g 
    
  15 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  225g 
    
  10 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  250g 
    
  12 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  2,000g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Armor 
  Location 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Protection
   
   
   
   
   
  Gothic 
  Head 
  400g 
    
  9 
   
   
   
   
   
  Plate 
  Torso 
  1,300g 
    
  18 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Arms 
  325g 
    
  13 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Legs 
  375g 
    
  15 
   
   
   
   
   
    
  Complete
  3,000g 
    
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  SHIELDS 
   
  Cost (gp) 
  Weight 
  (lbs) 
  Defense
  Damage
  Notes 
   
   
   
  Buckler 
   
  20 
  1 
  2 
  1B 
  Small Hand Covering 
   
   
  Target 
   
  25 
  2 
  3 
  1B 
  Small covering with 8in spike in center 
   
  Small Round 
  30 
  3 
  5 
  2B 
  18" circular shield…center grip 
   
  Large Round 
  50 
  5 
  10 
  3B 
  up to 30" circular shield, center or 2 strap 
  Kite 
   
  40 
  8 
  4 
  3B 
  36" long 18" wide, 2 strap 
   
  Small Shield 
  35 
  5 
  5 
  2B 
  standard shield, 24"x30" 
   
  Medium 
  Shield 
  55 
  10 
  8 
  3B 
  standard shield, 30"x42" 
   
  
  Large Shield 
  70 
  15 
  15 
  4B 
  standard shield, 36"x50" 
   
  Tower Shield 
  85 
  20 
  18 
  6B 
  Rectangular shield, 40"x60" 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  TIME
  1
  2
  3
  4
  5
  6
  1
  15
  12
  9
  6
  3
  0
  2
  18
  15
  12
  9
  6
  3
  3
  21
  18
  15
  12
  9
  6
  Spheres
  4
  24
  21
  18
  15
  12
  9
  5
  27
  24
  21
  18
  15
  12
  6
  30
  27
  24
  21
  18
  15
  7
  33
  30
  27
  24
  21
  18
  8
  36
  33
  30
  27
  24
  21
  Duration
  People affected
  Predetermined spell
  Instant
  1 points
  1 person
  1 point
  5 minutes
  15 points
  1 turn
  2 point
  2 people 
  2 points
  10 minutes 10 points
  2 turns
  3 points
  3 people
  3 points
  15 minutes 5 points
  3 turns
  4 points
  4 people
  4 points
  30 minutes 0 points
  4 turns
  5 points
  5 people
  5 points
  1 hour
  - 5 points
  5 turns
  6 points
  6 people
  6 points
  5 hours
  -10 points
  1 minute
  8 points
  7 people
  7 points
  10 hours
  -15 points
  5 minutes
  9 points
  8 people
  8 points
  15 hours
  -20 points
  15 minutes
  10 points
  9 people
  9 points
  24 hours
  -25 points
  30 minutes
  11 points
  10 people
  10 points
  Predetermined spells
  3 hours
  13 points
  11-24 people
  12 points
  costs the same no  
  8 hours
  15 points
  25-49 people
  13 points
  matter how many 
  16 hours
  17 points
  50-99 people
  14 points
  spheres you use
  2 days
  19 points
  100-199 people 16 points
  5 days
  21 points
  200 people +
  18 points
  Range
  10 days
  23 points
  Personal
  2 points
  1 month
  25 points
  Area effect
  10 feet
  4 points
  3 months
  27 points
  1 foot
  2 points
  15 feet
  6 points
  6 months
  29 points
  1 yard
  4 points
  30 feet
  8 points
  1 year
  31 points
  2 yards
  6 points
  60 feet
  10 points
  permanently 33 points
  4 yards
  8 points
  80 feet
  12 points
  7 yards
  10 points
  100 feet
  14 points
  You must use 4 of the 
  10 yards
  12 points
  130 feet
  16 points
  7 charts to make any 
  50 feet
  14 points
  150 feet
  18 points
  spell.  All spells require
  100 feet
  16 points
  200 feet
  20 points
  at least 1 point in effect.
  200 feet
  18 points
  1/2 mile 
  22 points
  400 feet
  20 points
  1 mile
  24 points
  800 feet
  22 points
  5 mile
  26 points
  15 miles
  28 points
  Damage/healing/defense
  20 miles
  30 points
  Point for point.  Every point of effect you wish to 
  30 miles +
  32 points
  cause on something it costs one point.  For
  example if you want to do 15 points of effect
  it would cost 15 points.
  
  Summoning chart 
  0-9 hit points 
  2 points
  10-19 hit points
  3 points
  20-29 hit points/small weapons
  4 points
  30-39 hit points/medium weapons
  5 points
  40-49 hit points/large weapons
  6 points
  50-59 hit points/huge weapons 
  7 points
  60-69 hit points
  8 points
  70-79 hit points 
  9 points
  80-89 hit points 
  10 points
  90-99 hit points
  11 points
  100-115 hit points 
  12 points
  116-129 hit points 
  13 points
  130-149 hit points 
  14 points
  150-169 hit points 
  15 points
  170-199 hit points 
  16 points
  200 + hit points 
  17 points
  
SOURCE: textdata/thevault/Guild Hunters/Guild Hunters Corebook.pdf