TEXT:  
   
   
   
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  An Introduction  
  To Fantasy Role-Playing/Adventure Gaming 
   
  Dedication 
  To my fiancé Michelle Diane McAvoy for her help in compiling this work  
  (including typing my whole scribbled manuscript in two days). Just like this book, I would 
  be incomplete without her. 
   
   
  FOREWORD 
  I would like to thank Jim Mathis for funding this project. Bill Voorhees and Peter Savoy for their 
  unshakable belief in me through the years and to all the fans of Arduin for their continued loyal support. 
  With friends and acquaintances like these, Arduin will continue to grow even beyond what I originally 
  thought possible. I thank you again one and all. 
  Finally, I would like to thank all the members of Chaos Incorporated for over two years of fun and 
  games. As game clubs go, you're a pretty fine bunch even if a bit crazy! 
  All of these people and many others are the ones who make my work possible. It is they who give me 
  ideas, play test my new game systems and generally act as a catalyst for my creative process. Without 
  feedback, criticism and prodding from those who play the games, my work would be poorer The Arduin 
  products may be "me," but all of you who play are my "life's blood." Together we will continue to 
  produce the best games in the whole damn world! 
   
  David A. Hargrave, Concord, CA August, 1980 
   
   
   
   
   
  NOTE:  Whenever It Reads "Him" or "He," We Are Implying "Her" or "Hers" or "She," as well. 
   
  Adventure Gaming is for Both Sexes! 
   
  So please don't take offense, we aren't being chauvinistic, just grammatically correct 
   
  Cover Artwork by Brad Schenck (a.k.a.”Morno”).  Interior Artwork by Brad Schenck, Greg Espinoza, 
  Michio Okamura and Roland Brown. 
   
   
  All material contained within this publication is copyright © by Emperors Choice Games and  
   Miniatures Corp.   Art Direction and Book Design by Thomas Morris, SHARPSHOOTER  
  STUDIOS. 
  
   
  Contents 
  I 
  Introduction 
  4 
   
  II 
  The Game Master 
  6 
   
  III 
  How To Create Your Character 
  8 
   
  A.  Character Races 
  8 
   
  B.  Character Monster Vision 
  9 
   
  C.  Character Classes 
  10 
   
  D.  Character Statistics 
  12 
   
  E.  Alignment 
  13 
   
  IV 
  Experience 
  15 
   
  V 
  Money 
  16 
   
  VI 
  How To Have A Melee 
  18 
   
  A.  Movement 
  18 
   
  B.  Combat 
  20 
   
   
  1.  Armor Class Equivalency Chart 
  20 
   
   
  2.  Combat Chart 
  21 
   
   
  3.  Weapons Damage Chart 
  22 
   
   
  4.  Basic Critical Hit Chart 
  23 
   
   
  5.  Fumble Chart 
  24 
   
  VII 
  Magik 
  25 
   
  A.  What is a Saving Roll 
  26 
   
  B.  Spoken Magik 
  27 
   
  C.  Priestly Magik 
  30 
   
  D.  Magic Artifacts and Treasures 
  33 
   
  VIII 
  Monsters 
  35 
   
  IX 
  The Adventure 
  40 
   
  X 
  The Forgotten Tower 
  43 
   
  XI 
  Glossary of Terms 
  52 
   
  XII 
  Sample Character Sheet 
  56 
   
  XIII 
  Other Monsters, Other Treasures 
  59 
   
   
  XIV 
  Optional Advanced Rules 
  61 
   
  XV 
  Bibliography 
  63 
   
  XVI 
  Synopsis and Conclusion 
  64 
  
   
  INTRODUCTION 
  This game is an introduction to the world of adventure gaming, and may be learned in less than an hour 
  by anyone age twelve or older. If you are not afraid of trying something new, you will discover a game 
  that is exciting and different from any game you have tried before. The ARDUIN ADVENTURE provides 
  the novice with a set of simple and understandable guidelines for learning the basic concepts of Role 
  Playing. Role Playing is the heart of all adventure gaming Systems now on the market. Once learned, 
  these concepts will allow the player to easily understand them. 
   
  The ARDUIN ADVENTURE has a unique modular learning system that permits the gamer to apply any 
  part of it to another system, or part of another system to itself. Although already a complete game, this 
  system is infinitely expandable with the only limit being the player’s imagination. So, read on and enter 
  the world of action and adventure. It awaits only your participation to come alive!
   
  Adventure Gaming started out several years ago 
  as something called “Fantasy Role Playing” or 
  FRP for short. This style of game usually 
  required the players to “become” a certain 
  character (or characters) within a game or world 
  created by someone else. Much as an actor must 
  assume a role in a movie by reading a script 
  written by someone else. This style of game 
  soon caught on and variants appeared of science 
  fiction, historical, and other kinds as opposed to 
  fantasy. Adventure gaming now takes into 
  account everything from spies to comic book 
  super heroes, and there is no end in sight.   
   
   
   In fact, the only limit such gaming is that which 
  your own imagination supplies! So, if you use 
  your imagination, the only limit to your play 
  will be the ends of the universe! 
   
  To understand your part in Adventure Gaming 
  you must now pretend to be an actor that must 
  learn his lines as a character in an upcoming 
  movie. It’s that simple! Remember though, it is 
  you and the other players that will be writing the 
  script, using only the guidelines that we will 
  give you a little later on to work with. 
   
   
  
   
   
   
  The next step is to learn what the guidelines for 
  play are going to be so that you may decide just 
  what part you will want to play in the adventure. 
  To that end we will now proceed to learn about 
  the most basic kind of adventure; the 
  FANTASY ADVENTURE. 
   
  My own fantasy world has been in play for 
  about six years and has led to many 
  successful game products related to it. My 
  world is called “ARDUIN” and is what we 
  will be using for an example. In Arduin, 
  each player acts out what his character will 
  be doing as he proceeds with the game. He 
  does this by speaking as he thinks his 
  character should and by moving miniature 
  metal figurines representing his characters 
  around a “Battle Board” (which will be 
  discussed further along in the rules).* The 
  game can be played without figurines, but in 
  my opinion, is much more fun with them. 
   
   
   
   
   
  Each character in the adventure will be 
  governed not only by what each person thinks 
  he should be doing, but by other factors as well.  
  These factors are: 
   
  1. What “Race” your character is. Elf? Dwarf? 
  Human? Amazon? 
   
  2. What “Class” your character is. This means what 
  your character does for a living. Are you a mage?  
  A warrior? A thief? 
   
  3. What “Alignment’ your character is, This is a 
  generality of the personality structure of your 
  character. Are you chaotic? Lawful? Amoral? 
   
  4. Finally, your characters’ own “Character 
  Statistics” will have a bearing on how you act 
  and react. How strong are you? How intelligent? 
  How fast are you, and many other things that to 
  be explained later on. In short, the SUM TOTAL 
  of your character’s mental and physical abilities 
  or disabilities. 
   
  We will now get down to specifics, beginning 
  with “Choosing the Game Master.” 
   
  Emperors Choice has a large line of adventure gaming figurines, which include many monsters and 
  characters from Arduin itself.  Visit their web site at www.empcho.com 
  
   
   
   
  THE GAMEMASTER 
  “Game Master” is the term we use to designate which person is running the game (who the referee is). 
  The Game Master (GM for short) will be the final word on the rules, and all of the other players must 
  abide by his word. GMs must do three things before the game can begin. 
   
  1. Know all of the rules you have all agreed upon (and have the rule book(s) handy to settle 
  disputes). 
   
  2. Have not only the desire, but also the time to give the creation of each game’s “script” the 
  attention it needs. It will take a good GM at least one hour to ready a game for play properly 
  (usually the night before). 
   
  3. Have the trust and confidence of all of the players so that they will not argue with his decisions. 
  This confidence can only be earned as the GM demonstrates his integrity and honesty during the 
  games. If the players feel that they are being short-changed by a GM, the play will soon become 
  bogged down in arguments and hurt feelings. So, a GM must always maintain a detached and 
  impartial attitude towards every player and every player’s character no matter what the GM’s 
  personal feelings are. A good GM sees only the game, not those who play within it. 
   
  Once you have decided among the players just who the GM will be, the GM can start on the creation of 
  his “script” and the players can ready their characters. We suggest that for the first dozen or so games 
  (or each time if you prefer) that a different GM be used. This will insure everyone a chance to 
  participate as a player, and will soon make evident to all just who the “best” GM is. The best one at 
  GMing usually becomes the permanent GM for everyone else, however this is not necessary if you do 
  not wish it. Always remember, it is YOUR GAME, to play as you choose! 
  
   
   
   
                            THE SCRIPT 
   
  A “script” is nothing more than an idea that the GM has for a game. These games take place in a world 
  of the GM’s own creation. The script might be a quest to find a holy artifact or an expedition to slay an 
  awful dragon that has been eating travelers in a certain forest. It is the sole responsibility of the GM to 
  provide such a script for the players to act out. Remember, though, the players will not be doing exactly 
  what the GM wants them to do. NO! They will be doing whatever it is they themselves, as their 
  characters, would do, given the situation the GM has handed them. A GM never tries to run the players 
  ‘game, but operates only as a referee, acting out the part of the monsters or other things or people the 
  characters meet.
   
  To create your own world for which you may 
  produce scripts, you can copy an existing book 
  or movie like Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings, 
  Edgar Rice Burrough’s John Carter of Mars, or 
  even an established fantasy game world such as 
  my own Arduin. It does not matter if it is a copy 
  (complete or partial) or if it is something 
  thought up entirely by the GM. What matters is 
  the “PLAYABILITY” of the script the GM 
  devises. 
   
  “Playability” means the players’ ability. to 
  understand and to act out such a script. 
  For instance, you would not devise a script 
  based on 20th Century Fox’s excellent movie 
  “Star Wars” and hope that a half dozen or so 
  knights from a fantasy world could function and 
  survive! They would not only fail to understand 
  the technology they were encountering but 
  wouldn’t even speak the same language!  So, 
  keep the scripts within the capabilities of the 
  characters and the players. Just remember how 
  you’d feel if someone decided you had to go off 
  and try to fight an elephant with a frisbee! 
   
  A script must have seven things each and 
  every time if it is to be successful.  They are: 
   
  1. A short legend or history of the area, the artifact 
  in question, the monster or whatever it is or 
  wherever it is that the players must deal with. 
  2. A specific location the characters must proceed 
  to in order to achieve the goals implied in the 
  script. 
  3. A written description of all items, monsters, 
  people, treasure, or areas the characters will en-
  counter. This will ensure that the GM will not 
  forget anything important to the characters in the 
  excitement of the game. 
   
   
   
   
  4. A reason for the characters to go wherever it is 
  they are supposed to go. Is there a reward for the 
  robbers? Is there a lot of gold and treasure 
  hidden away in the dragon’s cave? This will 
  insure that the characters are acting as real 
  people would in real life, and are not involved in 
  artificial and stupid undertakings that real people 
  would never attempt. It will also keep characters 
  from doing easy and non-dangerous things in 
  order to be-come more experienced and to get 
  rich with no risk. 
  5. Pre-set encounters, whether with monsters or 
  people,  or even natural events such as  storms, 
  earthquakes and such. This will once again 
  insure that the GM will not forget a vital 
  happenstance and that the characters will be 
  forced to face the consequences of every action 
  they take.   If they try to swim the river to escape 
  the forest fire they caused, they must deal with 
  the pre-set crocodiles in the river. 
  6. All “Special Happenstances” that may occur 
  must be pre-set. These happenings are those 
  things outside the general knowledge of the char-
  acters, yet of a nature that may bring them into 
  play. Such as: has another group of people 
  already stolen the artifact that the characters are 
  being sent to retrieve? Are there any clues as to 
  who they are and where they went? Is the person 
  sending them to kill the dragon really plotting 
  something else? What? Moreover, can the 
  characters find this out? Special Happenstances 
  are not always present in an adventure, but if 
  they are, the GM must have them already written 
  out. 
  7. Finally, a GM must have all the material needed 
  for the successful play of an adventure. If you 
  use figurines in your games, he must have some 
  to designate any monster or person the characters 
  will meet. If there is a building that must be 
  entered, then it must be mapped out. If it requires 
  the characters to travel overland, then the area 
  must be mapped out. In each case, this will make 
  the game play flow much more easily for the 
  GM, as well as for the players.
  
   
  HOW TO CREATE YOUR CHARACTER 
  This section is perhaps the easiest to actually do, and yet is one of the easiest to misunderstand. Therefore, we will 
  through it step by step so you will see exactly what must be done. Here are the basic steps: 
   
  1. Decide on the character’s racial type- 
  2. Roll the die to acquire your character’s complete 
  statistics.* 
  3. Decide on what class your character will be. 
  4. Name your character. 
  5. Roll the die to ascertain you character’s equip-
  ment and wealth.* 
  6. Decide on your character’s general history and 
  write it down for future reference. 
  7. Spend any money you may have to acquire any 
  additional equipment you want. 
  8. Decide where your character is living (within the 
  context of the GM’s rules). 
  9. Proceed with game play! 
   
  • 
  See page 12. 
   
  Basic Character 
   
  RACES 
  CLASSES 
   
  Elf 
  Warrior 
   
  Dwarf 
  Thief 
   
  Hobbit 
  Priest 
   
  Human 
  Mage 
   
  Amazon 
  Forester 
   
  Half Orc 
  CHARACTER RACES 
  ELVES 
      An old and magical race, Elves are tall and slender 
  (ranging from 5’8” to 6’5”, weighing but 105 to 200 
  pounds), usually having light complexions and fair hair 
  (very light brown to a silvery blonde).  They never have 
  red hair and usually have green, violet, lavender, purple, 
  or pearlescent gray eyes.  There are three basic types of 
  Elves:  the very tall and very rare “High Elves” (usually 
  dwelling in frosty mountain splendor); the more 
  numerous “Sylvan” or “Wood Elves” that make their 
  homes in deep forests, and finally there are the shortest 
  kind called “Sea Elves” (usually living in underwater 
  caverns and as at home in the water as a dolphin).  Both 
  the High and Sea Elves are seldom seen by anyone, and 
  almost never have dealings with mankind.  The most 
  common player type is the Wood Elf, a doughty fighter, 
  and a merry and good companion to all they decide to 
  adventure with.   
      All Elves have an inordinate love for music, and are 
  truly fine singers. Most also play an instrument usually a 
  lyre, mandolin, harp or flute - but do so only among 
  themselves or their close friends as they feel that their 
  music is something very personal. 
       
      Living 10,000 years, Elves have all the time in the 
  world to learn what they want, but tend to be either Mages 
  or Warriors (and sometimes both simultaneously!). 
   High Elves favor broadswords and beautifully worked 
  armor (usually scale or chain mail) and are as often as not 
  mounted much like knights. 
   Wood Elves seldom wear armor, preferring green, 
  brown and other “woodsy” colored clothing and are wont 
  to use wonderfully carved long bows, spears, and daggers. 
  Although they prefer hit and run tactics, firing their 
  arrows from cover, they are not afraid to commit 
  themselves to hand-to-hand combat. 
   Sea Elves wear very little clothing beyond colorful loin 
  clothes, and use long and cruelly barbed tridents, curved 
  daggers, and throw weighted nets to ensnare their 
  enemies. 
   All Elves have pointed ears to a greater (High 
  Elves) or lesser (Wood Elves) extent, and their eyes are 
  set slightly slant-wise in their heads, lending them an 
  “almond eyes” look. They are happy but not frivolous, 
  and studious (when necessary) but not serious by nature. 
  They never lie and will always repay a debt even if it 
  takes a thousand years. 
   
  DWARVES: 
      A race nearly as old and as magical as the Elves, these 
  short muscular people (ranging in height from 3’5” to 5’ 
  tall and from 100 to 190 pounds) usually have dark 
  complexions and hair (brown, black or even a rust red), 
  with most males having long beards. There are two basic 
  types of Dwarves: The “Mountain” or “Dark Dwarves” 
  and the taller “Stone Downers” or “Common Dwarves.” 
  They both are feisty and touchy, tending to fight first and 
  ask questions later. They are very long lived (500 or more 
  years), and ponder things for a time before acting, and 
  never acting until they are ready. They like to drink and 
  tell tall tales. They think that Elves are snooty, Humans 
  too unpredictable, Hobbitts too frivolous, and detest all 
  Orc kind with a passion (even more so than the Elves do).  
   
   Although most Dwarves are decent beings, some are 
  easily corrupted and turned to evil, having no redeeming 
  traits whatsoever.  
      
     Dark Dwarves favor battle axes, the Stone Downers 
  favor great hammers (usually swung two handed). Both 
  wear much armor (chain mail or plate armor)* and are 
  stubborn and persistent hand to hand fighters. 
       
      Dwarves are warriors as well as craftsmen and seldom 
  if ever dabble in things magical. They do occasionally 
  
  work with Elven craftsmen to produce magical artifacts 
  and weapons.   They love gold and precious things avidly, 
  and each Dwarf has a 20% chance of simply grabbing any 
  valuable without thinking. Finally, Dwarves are extremely 
  loyal to those they consider friends, and never forget their 
  enemies. 
   
  HOBBITTS: 
  They are happy, sometimes frivolous races, that love 
  parties and eating (preferring cakes, cookies and other 
  kinds of baked foods). Ranging in size from 3’ to 3’ 10” 
  and from 40 to 85 pounds, they are noted for their ability 
  with slings and their dislike of water (they do bathe, they 
  just won’t swim in the horrid stuff!). With a life span 
  roughly the same as humans, and their close resemblance 
  (save in height),  they are sometimes referred to as “Half 
  Men” or “Halfers”. They tend to be thieves if they leave 
  their own hometown to go adventuring, preferring to “live 
  by their wits” and not be hampered with all sorts of 
  equipment or armor. They wield slings, daggers and an 
  occasional short sword, preferring to shoot from hiding 
  rather than standing up and slugging it out. Do not 
  misunderstand, however. They are inordinately brave and 
  capable of the greatest acts of loyalty and heroism. They 
  usually come in one of three types: the taller, darker 
  “Gravellers”- who are usually associated with a Stone 
  Downer settlement, the more common “Plow Foots”’ 
  usually found in small farm oriented villages and lastly 
  the small and secretive “Street Wise” or city Hobbitts. 
  Most Hobbitts love to smoke tobacco in long, slender, 
  clay pipes, and to pester people with riddles (the more 
  convoluted the better). Hobbitts get along well with most 
  races but hold Elves in awe. 
   
  AMAZONS 
  are female warrior races that live in a culture run by and 
  for females. They are a tall (5’8” to 6’5”) and athletic race 
  (130 to 175 pounds) that live as long as humans. They 
  have slightly bronze or golden-tan skin coloring and favor 
  long, single-braided hair (usually light brown to dark 
  honey-blonde). Their eyes are usually various shades of 
  gray or blue, but amber eyes are occasionally found. 
  There are three distinct types of Amazon. The most 
  numerous are the sea going “Gypsy Corsairs” who use 
  light leather armor and cutlasses as well as short bows. 
  The least numerous are a very dark complexioned and tall 
  jungle-living kind who fight with no armor and use light 
  javelins, short spears and long double-edged curved 
  knives. The third kind, by far the most often seen on an 
  adventure, come from the loose coalition of City States 
  known as “The Motherland.” They wear armor not unlike 
  the classical Greeks did on earth, using long spears, tall 
  shields, and carry large leaf-bladed swords. All of them 
  have a terrific joy for life and DO NOT hate men. They 
  simply believe that they are better than men on the whole, 
  so of course women should run things! They are fairly 
  clannish, but will not hesitate to try to get to know a male 
  that interests them. They are ferocious fighters and clans 
  have been known to carry on “blood feuds” for centuries. 
  There have been so few Amazons that have ever done 
  anything except become warriors that the names of those 
  who became something else are spoken of for centuries as 
  legends - not very good legends either - because the 
  culture stresses “the warrior ethic.” They do not practice 
  self-mutilation as some legends have it, believing in the 
  axiom “whole body, whole mind.” 
   
  HALF ORCS 
  are an offspring of mating between Humans and Orcs and 
  are universally disliked by practically everyone and 
  looked upon with suspicion. They are a hardy and 
  muscular lot, ranging in size from 5’6” to 6’3” tall, 
  weighing 150 to 195 pounds, with yellow, amber, orange 
  or dull red eyes. Their hair is course and shaggy, usually a 
  blackish brown in color, and they have a faintly 
  yellowish-green tinge to their rough skin. Their teeth are 
  gray-green and the two canines are extra-ordinarily long 
  and pointed (as are their ears). They will use any kind of 
  armor or weaponry, but prefer studded or banded leather 
  armor and scimitar-like swords. Those that use missile 
  weapons prefer lighter crossbows. They are almost always 
  warriors or thieves, although some take to the more evil 
  gods and become priests or followers of priests. Because 
  they are so disliked they tend to mistrust everyone. They 
  live about as long as Dwarves, and dislike Elves greatly. 
   
  HUMANS 
  are at once both the very best and very worst of 
  everything. They can be of any class and any alignment, 
  and vary in looks and equipment just as we do in our 
  world. They are neither more nor less than what we 
  ourselves are. Humans have the widest range of 
  possibilities but no special attributes, save adaptability. In 
  a fantasy world humans live 100 to 120 years, getting 
  “old” only in their 80’s (and staying very active until 
  then). 
   
  CHARACTER/MONSTER VISION: 
       Dwarves, Elves, and Half Orcs can see in the dark on 
  the infrared spectrum. Hobbitts and Amazons can see 
  better in the dark than humans, but still need light to see 
  well - like a cat. The usual night time vision range is 
  approximately 60’ for all except Elves where it is 90’. 
      Elves have a 60% chance of hearing anything within 
  60’ of themselves; Half-Orcs, Dwarves, Hobbits, 
  Amazons and Humans hear at a progressively 10% worse 
  increment (Humans having only a 10% chance of hearing 
  anything within 60’). Wearing a helmet or helm cuts the 
  percentage by half.   
      Whenever you encounter a “magikal” monster such as a 
  
  Dragon, Medusa, or Gargoyle, figure that they can see in 
  the dark like an Elf. Other creatures (unless known to be 
  nocturnal) like bears and wolves can see in the dark much 
  as Hobbitts do. Wherever there is any doubt, the GM 
  makes the decision. 
   
  CHARACTER CLASSES 
  The WARRIOR 
  is a basic adventure class and the most numerous. A 
  warrior is a person that uses his battle skills to earn a 
  living. Most warriors train ten or more years beginning at 
  age eight to become basic EL 1. 
   
  The MAGE 
  starts at an even younger age (six or seven) than the 
  warrior and daily memorizes the spells he will be using. 
  Mages usually have few physical skills, but make up for it 
  with their force of magik. They usually tend to be loners 
  and egocentric in nature. However, they commonly 
  accompany adventurers in order to obtain money and 
  magikal items to further their constant researches. It takes 
  a lot, to scare a mage. 
  The PRIEST 
  grows up either in a seminary or church, and is dedicated 
  solely to his god. His goal is to spread the “word” of his 
  god and to hopefully found new shrines and churches 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  to said god. Thus they travel with adventurers to lend 
  healing rituals and to spread their gods’ word. They also 
  try to gain wealth to build their new shrines and to 
  contribute to their church’s well being and financial 
  solvency. In fact, 30% of all they earn is “tithed” to their 
  church and sent directly to it. The higher their EL the less 
  tolerant they become towards “unbelievers.” 
   
  The THIEF 
  is one who chooses to live by his wits as opposed to doing 
  more mundane things. He usually grows up in a gang of 
  street urchins, graduating to the thieves guild around the 
  age of 14 or so. He then studies the “fine art of thievery” 
  for another three to five years. During that time he studies 
  locks and traps and generally learns the “rules” laid down 
  by the guild and society, and of the penalties for being a 
  clumsy thief. He accompanies adventurers to earn fame 
  and loot and is the one who opens locked treasure chests, 
  doors, and other enclosures. He almost never steals from 
  his adventuring companions, and will fight only if it is 
  desperately necessary. 
   
  
  A FORESTER 
  is someone who elects (or is born) to live a life 
  away from the cities. It is they who patrol  
  the border lands, and act as scouts for travelers  
  and soldiers. Guide, scout, hunter, trapper,  
  those are all parts of what makes up a forester.  
  They accompany parties of adventurers  
  simply because they desire to. Their main  
  loyalty, however, is to “the land.” 
   
  Finally, each class has one or two special  
  attributes gained from their way of life.   
  They are: 
   
  WARRIORS add one point each to their  
  constitution and strength. They also have a 20% 
  chance of detecting ambushes and avoiding  
  “surprise.” This increases 2% per EL earned. 
   
  MAGES add one point each to their intelligence  
  and ego. They also have a 10% chance of  
  sensing things that are magikal. This increases  
  3% per EL earned. 
   
  PRIESTS add one mint to their wisdom and  
  have a 20% chance of sensing “evil.” This  
  increases 2% per EL earned. 
   
  THIEVES add one point each to their agility  
  and dexterity. They also have a 30% chance  
  of hiding in darkness and shadows.  This  
   
  increases 3% per EL earned. 
  FORESTERS add one point each to their  
  constitution and agility. They also have a 30%  
  chance of following any track or spoor. These  
  both increase 3% per EL earned. 
  Next you “roll up” your character’s statistics  
  using the parameters set forth on the next  
  page. 
   
  However, before doing that you must  
  understand one simple fact. All the die rolling  
  that you do will be with the one provided in this  
  game. This die has a total of  twenty (20)  
  sides numbered zero through nine Twice Each  
  number. Thus, if you color in one set of  
  those numbers with a crayon you can roll any  
  number from one to 20. The uncolored  
  numbers will be one to ten and the colored  
  numbers will be 11 to 20. By the same token,  
  the entire die can be a simple ten sided die by  
  calling each number one to ten regardless  
  of color. If a percentage (%) roll is required, roll  
  the die using the first roll as the “tens”  
  and the second roll as the “ones” (a roll of “5”  
  then “2” would be “52%”). 
   
  All die rolls will either be one to ten, one to  
  twenty, or percentile in nature. And No  
  Other Kind of Die will Be Needed By You to  
  Play the Game. 
  
  CHARACTER STATISTICS 
  We will now briefly explain each of the characteristics  
  (statistics) you will need to know about your character. 
   
  1.   Dexterity: (DEX) 
  A character’s ability to wield a weapon or use his hands. 
  2. Agility: (AGIL) 
  A character’s ability to dodge, duck, move about on his feet, etc. 
  3. Strength: (STR) 
  How much a character can carry, how hard a character 
  can hit, etc. 
  4. Constitution: (CON) 
  Helps determine a character’s Hit Points as well as being 
  an indicator as to stamina and other physical attributes. 
  5. Intelligence: (INT) 
  Consider each point as 9 points of normal IQ. It also 
  regulates how much MANA a mage or priest has. 
  6. EGO: (EGO) 
  This is the character’s “force of will” and his arrogance 
  factor. 
  7.   Wisdom: (WIS) 
  This is not how smart a character is, but how much he 
  knows. 
  8. Charisma: (CHAR) 
  A combination of factors like physical looks, speaking 
  voice, how a character carries himself, all pointing 
  towards that character’s ability to influence those around 
  themselves. 
  9. Hit Points: (HP) 
  How much damage your character can take before dying. 
  10. Armor Class: (AC)  
  The sum total of a character’s 
  ability to actively or passively defend himself. This is the 
  backbone of a character’s “DEFENSE FACTOR.” 
  11. Mana: (MANA) 
  The amount of available “internal power” a character has 
  with which to cast magik spells or to use psychic force. 
  12. Experience Level: (EL) 
  The character’s ability to function within his class. 
   
  To obtain a character’s hit points (HP), simply take his 
  CON points and add 20 points. This will be the 
  character’s HP thereafter with two exceptions. The first 
  being that each time a character gains a level of  
  expertise, they also gain one (1) HP. The second is even 
  simpler. Each time a character loses a CON point, they 
  lose a HP as well. 
  A character’s EL will partially determine how well they 
  fight, lockpick, use magik, and such like. For each EL 
  earned over a period of time, a character can SUBTRACT 
  ONE from any die roll they must make. Thus it is easier to 
  hit an opponent, easier to” save” against a magikal attack, 
  and so on. These subtractions are indicated as “plusses”; 
  i.e. - a +1 Attack means take 1 from the number required 
  to be rolled to hit. 
   
  All character races must roll a D20 for each statistic, 
  then add or subtract as outlined below.  
   ELVES add 12 points total to their DEX, AGIL, INT 
  and CHAR in any amount break down they wish, but they 
  must add at least one point to each. 
   DWARVES add 12 points to either their CON, STR and 
  EGO in any increment they desire, but also must add at 
  least one point each.  
   HOBBITTS add 8 points to their AG IL, DLX and 
  CHAR as above. 
   AMAZONS add 8 points to their CON and STR as 
  above. 
   HALF-ORCS add 6 points to their CON and STR but 
  must also subtract a total of 4 points from WIS and/or 
  INT, as above. 
   HUMANS must roll a Dl 0, a number of 5 or less 
  indicating a subtraction, and a number of 6 or greater 
  indicating an addition of four points total to any two 
  attributes of their choice, as above. 
   
  REMEMBER! No single statistic of a player’s 
  character can be less than five Points* or more than 20. 
  If there is a subtraction called for, it is not allowed if it 
  makes the statistic less than five (although a player may 
  take it down to five, discarding the one or two remaining 
  subtractions  IF ALL OTHER APPLICABLE 
  STATISTICS ARE AT FIVE, and if all categories 
  required to be modified have already been so modified). 
   
  Finally, each character is allowed one “character quirk’ 
  or special attribute if it is not too outrageous. The GM, is, 
  of course, the final arbitrator, and should allow such 
  things as scars, different colored eyes, strange skin 
  pigmentation, etc. However, GMs should NOT ALLOW 
  extra additions to character statistics. Use your 
  imagination to make each character unique and different. 
  Volume one of the Arduin Grimoire Trilogy has hundreds 
  of character quirks for easy access/reference for those 
  who have difficulty in deciding upon what kind to use. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  *except for INT, which for playability must be at least ten. GM’s should see the below chart for 
  guidelines as to how INT helps a character function. 
  Remember each INT point is 9 points of “IQ”, thus an INT of 10 = an IQ of 90. 
   
   
  20 
  = Einstein! 
  13-15 = Superior 
   
  9  = Borderline 
   
   
  19-18 = Genius 
  12 
  = Average 
               4-7  = Moron 
   
  16-17 = Very Superior 
  10-11 = Dull 
               1-3  = Imbecile/Idiot 
  
  ALIGNMENT 
   
   
   
  “Alignment” is a generalization of how your character 
  will act in most situations. A chart that can be used for a 
  GUIDELINE is provided below. 
   
   
  Alignment Chart 
   
  CHAOTIC:  A character that doesn’t care much for rules 
  and regulations, doing pretty much what he feels like, 
  when he feels like it.  
   
  NEUTRAL:  A character that can take rules or leave 
  them, but generally goes along with them for the sake of 
  harmony with the world around him. 
   
  LAWFUL:  A character that likes order and “the rule of 
  law” in his life. Rules and regulations make him happy 
  and he feels content functioning within their framework. 
   
  AMORAL:  A character that doesn’t know “right’ from 
  “wrong,” or understand laws. He will do what he wants - 
  regardless if it’s legal or illegal - if he wants to do so 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Good and Evil 
      These are simplistic terms to denote how a person will 
  deal with other people within the context of his 
  alignment. His “ethks.’1 “Evil” people do things to harm 
  others, they lie, cheat, steal and murder. “Good” people 
  generally tell the truth, don’t steal or murder, and usually 
  act in a reasonably decent manner. The Arduin Trilogy 
  has a much more detailed Alignment Breakdown system. 
     
  To fully define your character, it is necessary to combine 
  alignment with good and evil. This is so that a fuller 
  picture of your character’s “personality framework” can 
  be available to you for ease of role playing.  When writing 
  down your character’s alignment, give the alignment first 
  followed by a dash, then whether he’s good or evil.* For 
  example, a Nazi Storm trooper of World War II would be 
  “lawful-evil,” because his culture was one of strict laws, 
  yet very evil. Another example is an Elf from Tolkien’s 
  Lord of the Rings. He would be “chaotic-good,” because 
  he lives beyond the laws and rules of mortal man, yet is 
  “good” nonetheless. 
   
  Thus you have the following possible alignments: 
   
  Lawful-Good/True-Lawful 
  Always smiling, goody-two-shoes, always helpful (you 
  know the type) - Usually merchants, soldiers, etc. 
  Neutral-Good 
  Foresters usually fit here 
  True-Neutral 
  Most thieves fit here 
  Chaotic-Good 
  Most Elves fit here 
  True-Chaotic 
  Most animals and non-intelligent monsters fit here 
  Lawful-Evil 
  Most “bad” nobles or officials fit here 
  Neutral-Evil 
  Most bandits or outlaws fit in here 
  Chaotic-Evil 
  Most bad monsters are aligned thusly 
  Amoral 
  Con men and other tricksters fit in this category 
  Amoral-Evil 
  These are people who always try to hurt others for their 
  own personal gain. 
   
  Remember, there are always exceptions to the above 
  chart.
   
  *There is a third alternative, for those characters that are neither truly evil nor truly good. They are those of any alignment 
  who simply fall somewhere between. Simply put the prefix “true” before the alignment of the character as in “true-neutral” 
  (which, by the way, is the usual alignment for most thieves). 
  
   
   
   
   
   
  
  IV 
  EXPERIENCE 
  AND WHAT IT MEANS 
      
      “Experience” is what all people accrue as they proceed through life. This is what we  
  learn while doing “our jobs” and “coping” with different situations. In the game, this is shown by a 
  character’s ability to better himself, fight, evade, etc. as he gains “experience levels.” 
   
   
      Each character will gain one experience level 
  (EL) for each five adventures completed 
  (through fourth level).  Thereafter it takes 20 
  adventures to gain each additional EL.  Later on 
  you can use more precise “point value 
  experience systems”, such as the Arduin Trilogy 
  has, for a mor3e detailed awarding of 
  experience. 
   
  Remember each EL means one point less on 
  any die roll that character has to make!  It helps  
   
   
  in attacking and in making the “Saving Rolls” 
  necessary to survive. 
   
   
  Sometimes this “one less” is shown as a 
  “plus” value.  That is to say if a character is plus 
  one (+1) to hit (attack) that means he needs one 
  less to do so.  Example:  With an EL of “1”, 
  Gondar the Dwarf needs a 14 to hit a DF of 2 
  (with a war hammer).  With an EL of 2 (Second 
  level), he needs only to roll a 13 (14-1=13). 
   
   
   
  
  V 
  MONEY 
  WHAT IS IT, AND HOW TO GET IT 
      Money (gold, silver, copper, etc.) will have a definite bearing on all characters in this game. It costs 
  money to live, and characters earning a living will have no real worries. However, those characters that 
  are broke, will go hungry and have no place to stay. 
   
  Therefore, pay close attention to the following: there are 20 copper pieces (C.P.) in each silver penny 
  (S.P.). There are 20 S.P. in every gold sovereign (G.S.). There are coins like gold crowns (G.C.) which 
  are half the value of G.S. and Royal Sovereigns (R.S.) that are worth five times the value of a G.S.  
  Also, there are brass coins that have a value about half that of copper, which are called “Minums” 
  (M.S.). 
   
   Each gold coin weighs one ounce and each silver and 
  copper coin weigh  an ounce. Thus ten ounces of silver 
  equals one ounce of gold, and ten ounces of copper equal 
  one ounce of silver. The gold coins are called “gold 
  sovereigns,” the silver coins are called “silver pennies” 
  and the copper ones are called “coppers.” There is also a 
  smaller, half value, “Ha’penny.” 
   
   Money is acquired by characters in several ways, but 
  most often by looting old tombs, or treasure hordes, 
  selling items found therein, or by “hiring on” for a 
  specific fee (to some rich merchant or noble) to do a 
  specific job. 
   
   Characters must have an income to survive in a game 
  world, just as we must work to pay our own bills. 
   
  The section of General Living Costs (below) will give 
  you an idea of just how much you will need to live. 
   
  All characters roll a D20 to see how many G.S. they have 
  as a financial legacy. They may use this money to buy 
  more equipment, live off or spend frivolously if they so 
  desire. However it is suggested that each character save at 
  least the amount necessary to “live on” for two weeks as a 
  basic starter.. A character cannot start with less than 3 
  G.S. 
   
   
  GENERAL LIVING COSTS 
   
  1. A loaf of bread = 2CP. 
   
  2. A mug of Ale=5C.P. 
   
  3. A meal at an Inn = 10 C.P. 
   
  4. A night’s lodging at an Inn = 15 C.P., however if 
  bought together, a meal and night’s lodging usually 
  costs only 20 C.P. 
   
  5.  Room in Houses (apartments) cost from1 S.P. to 18 
   
  G.S. per week’s stay depending on the area and the  
  standard of housing. A good average room would cost 
  about 3 S.F. per weeks stay, and would include a bath-
  room/etc. “down the hall,” and fair security. 
   
   
   
   
  6. People are taxed a standard 10% of their earnings each 
  year, but unless you have belongings or a house/land 
  to gauge your worth against, it is usually only 5 G.S. 
  per year. Destitute people are allowed to plead their 
  cases before a Tax Magistrate, however magistrates 
  are notorious for sending people who can’t pay their 
  taxes into “Bonded Servitude” to pay off their debts. 
  The standard “rate of exchange” is one month’s 
  servitude for every G.S. owed to the government. 
   
  7. Using the above figures, and the ones pro-vided on the 
  character equipment list, it can be determined that a 
  character will need approximately 24 S.F. (or 1 G.S. 
  and 4 S-P.) per month for room and board in a 
  generally “average” style and cooking one’s own 
  meals. Living in an Inn over a long term will cost 
  approximately 30 S.F. (or 1 G.S. and 10 S.P.) per 
  month. You can see that it is more expensive, and you 
  only get one meal per day as opposed to three when 
  you “do it yourself.’ Still, some characters will prefer 
  Inn living as opposed to the more mundane style. 
   
  8.  If you need further cost listings, the Arduin Trilogy has 
  two very comprehensive lists from which to work. 
  However, it is strongly suggested that you “de-rate” all 
  the prices as follows: all prices listed as G.S. de-rate to 
  S.P. cost, and all prices listed as S.P. cost de-rate to 
  C.P. cost. This is due to the fact that the ‘Arduinian 
  Multiverse” is one of a much “Higher Entropy” than 
  the beginners world(s) you will be playing in. This 
  simply means that the Arduinian world has a much 
  higher incidence of monsters/magik than that of a 
  beginners world, and that gold and other treasure is 
  much more common. Thus prices are higher. Kind of 
  like comparing prices of the year 1900 with prices 
  now, in 1980-81. 
   
  9. Once you have finished creating your character you 
  must equip him. To do this roll a D10 to determine 
  how many items he may freely choose as personal 
  belongings from the CHARACTER EQUIPMENT 
  LIST below. It is suggested that each character choose 
  items he will need to survive or that relate to his 
  specific character class. For example a forester would 
  choose a longbow, quiver, and arrows, or a thief might 
  choose 
  a 
  rope 
  and 
  grapnel 
  (for 
  climbing).
  
   
   
   
  CHARACTER EQUIPMENT LIST 
   
  Iron Cap 
  5 S.P. 
  Sling 
   1 S.P. 
  Helmet 
  9 S.P. 
  40 Lead Sling Shot 
  15 S.P. 
  Full Helm 
  1 G.S. 
  Short bow 
   3 G.S. 
  Small Shield (Buckler) 
  5 S.P. 
  Composite Bow 
   9 G.S.  
  Standard Shield 
  9 S.P. 
  Longbow 
   7 G.S. 
  Kite/Tower Shield 
  1 G.S. 
  Standard Arrows  
   5 C.P. each 
  Arming Doublet 
  30 S.P. 
  Long Arrows 
   7 C.P. each 
  Gauntlets (a pair) 
   1 G.S. 
  Quiver (holds 20 arrows)  5 S.P. 
  Quilted Cloth Armor 
   2 G.S. 
  Light Crossbow 
  10 G.S. 
  Leather Armor 
   5 G.S. 
  Heavy Crossbow 
  20 G.S. 
  Studded/banded Leather Armor 
   8 G.S. 
  Quarrels/Bolts 
   9 C.P. each 
  Scale Armor 
  13 G.S. 
  Quarrel Case (holds 20) 
   4 S.P. 
  Chain Mail Armor 
  25 G.S. 
  Dagger 
   5 S.P. 
  Half Plate Armor 
  35 G.S. 
  Throwing Knife 
   3 S.P. 
  Full Plate Armor 
  50 G.S. 
  Short Sword 
   3 G.S. 
  Basic Coat, Pants, Boots  
  15-30 G.S. 
  Rapier 
   8 G.S. 
  Basic Bed Roll 
   3 S.P. 
  Scimitar/Saber 
   4 G.S. 
  Basic Mess Kit 
   2 S.P. 
  Broadsword/Battle Axe 
   5 G.S. 
  Standard Back Pack 
  10 S.P.  
  Hand and a Half Sword 
   7 G.S. 
  Standard Leather Sack 
   5 C.P. 
  Two Hand Sword 
  12 G.S. 
  1 Week Normal Food 
   3 S.P. 
  Cudgel (iron banded) 
  1-2 S.P. 
  1 Week Iron Rations 
   5 S.P. 
  Mace 
   3 G.S. 
  2 Quart Water/Wine Skin 
  30 C.P. 
  Maul 
   6 G.S. 
  50’ Hemp Rope 
   1 S.P. 
  Morning Star 
   9 G.S. 
  Iron Grapnel 
   7 S.P. 
  War Hammer 
   2 G.S. 
  Small Tent (2 man) 
  18 S.P. 
  Small Flail 
   7 G.S. 
  Flint and Steel 
  10 C.P. 
  Long Flail 
   9 G.S. 
  6 Torches (2 hours each) 
  20 C.P. 
  Halberd 
  12 G.S. 
  Lantern (4 hours) 
   5 S.P. 
  Light Javelin 
   1 G.S. 
  Oil (1 pint flask) 
   5 C.P. 
  Heavy Javelin 
   2 G.S. 
  Standard War Horse 
  30 G.S. 
  Short Spear 
   3 G.S. 
  Standard Pony 
   6 G.S. 
  Long Spear 
   4 G.S. 
  Pack Horse 
  10 G.S. 
  Trident 
   6 G.S. 
  Saddle 
   3 G.S. 
  Pike 
   5 G.S. 
  Standard Riding Horse 
  15 G.S. 
  7’ Quarter Staff 
   1 S.P. 
   
   
   
  The GM can use this list as a guide for other items or the two larger lists in the Arduin Trilogy may be 
  used with the minor price changes mentioned above. 
   
  
   
  VI 
  HOW TO HAVE A MELEE 
  A melee consists of two parts: movement and combat. First comes movement, each character moving all or part of his 
  allowable movement distance. Then comes the actual combat. Both parts are carried out in the order of the fastest (dexterity 
  for combat, or agility for movement) to the slowest. For example, if there are two Orcs with DEX and AGIL of 14 each 
  facing an Elf with DEX and AGIL of 16 each, every turn the Elf would attack first, then the Orcs. It is broken into two parts 
  for ease of game play and no other reason. There is an Advanced, Optional rule at the end of the book for those of you who 
  want more realistic combat. 
  Another factor to remember is that of “reach.” This is when a weapon has length (or reach) advantage over its opponent 
  (for instance a 2-handed sword versus a broadsword). The weapon with reach always attacks first if the opposing DEXs are 
  the same If the longer weapon has a DEX slower by 1 to 4 points then the attacks are simultaneous. If the disparity is greater 
  than that, then the longer weapon attacks last. 
  A faster DEX always may elect to “parry” (deflect) his opponent’s weapon regardless of reach differential. To do this, the 
  faster weapon must attack a DB of 2+1 (plus any ‘adds”) and if successful, the opponent’s weapon is considered deflected 
  and unable to attack that turn. 
  If a longer weapon is parried in this manner, the person doing so is considered to have “gotten inside” its effective 
  fighting reach. If the person with the longer weapon does not move back or “shorten up” (with hafted weapons) on his grip 
  during the next movement, it will be impossible to use his weapon properly on the following melee round, thus adding 4 to 
  his opponents AF.
   
   
  MELEE MOVEMENT 
   
  To determine how fast/far a character or monster can 
  move in one melee round add their dexterity and agility 
  and then multiply the number by 5. Thus if a character has 
  a DEX of 14 and an AGIL of 12(14+ 12=26) and you 
  multiply by 5(26 ‘(5= 130) you get 130’ per melee round! 
  Simple, but remember to subtract penalties for armor 
  worn before adding your DEX and AGIL together and 
  multiplying. Flying creatures multiply their number by 10 
  and leg-less creatures (like snakes) by only 3. Fish and 
  other “water creatures” use a multiplier of 7. 
   
  ORDINARY MOVEMENT 
   
  For characters exploring a dungeon or just walking 
  along, consider the melee speed your character has and 
  simply slow it down by a factor of ten. Confused? Don’t 
  be. Ten times six seconds is only a 60 second minute! 
  Yep, that’s right, at a walk, your character will move his  
   
  combat distance each minute instead of every 6 seconds. 
  This might seem slow, but remember he is moving with 
  care and caution to avoid traps and ambushes. 
   
  MOVEMENT PENALTIES 
   
  Weight and encumbrance have a definite effect on how 
  far/fast a character may move each melee round. The 
  greater the encumbrance, the greater the penalty. To 
  determine just what penalties your character has accrued, 
  follow this simple guideline: for each class of AC a 
  person has or for each ten pounds of weight carried, 
  subtract five feet from the maximum traveling distance 
  allowed for him. For example, a character in AC 8 is 
  minus 5, (-5’) per turn and one in AC 5 would be minus 
  20’ per turn. There is no penalty for AC 9 or for natural 
  ACs. 
   
   
   
   
  DAILY OVERLAND MOVEMENT CHART 
   
   
   
  Road or Clear  
   
  Type 
  Terrain 
  Light Woods 
  Forest 
  Jungle 
  Mountains 
   
  Elf 
   25 miles 
   24 miles 
  22 miles 
  16 miles 
  10 miles 
   
  Dwarf 
   24 miles 
   20 miles 
  16 miles 
  12 miles 
  10 miles 
   
  Human 
   18 miles 
   15 miles 
  12 miles 
  9 miles 
  6 miles 
   
  Half Orc 
   25 miles 
   20 miles 
  15 miles 
  12 miles 
  9 miles 
   
  Amazon 
   20 miles 
   17 miles 
  14 miles 
  11 miles 
  8 miles 
   
  Hobbitt 
   15 miles 
   14 miles 
  12 miles 
  6 miles 
  4 miles 
   
  Standard War 
   
  Horse 
   30 miles 
   25 miles 
  18 miles 
  11 miles 
  8 miles 
   
  Pack Horse 
   
  Pony 
   22 miles 
   18 miles 
  14 miles 
  8 miles 
  5 miles 
  
   
  WEATHER 
   
  Sometimes weather will play a part in an overland adventure. To facilitate game play here is a chart the 
  GM can use to randomly roll up weather each day. 
   
  DIE 
  ROLL 
  SUMMER 
      FALL 
   WINTER 
  SPRING 
         1 
  Cool, 65º 
     cool, 65º, 
   Cold, 20º, 
  warm, 65º, 
           
  slightly overcast, 
     overcast, 
  cloudy skies, 
   clear skies,   
   
  no wind.  
  15 to 20 mph wind 
  15 mph winds 
  15 mph wind 
   
   
  2 
  Warm, 75º, 
  very cool, 45º, 
   very cold, 0º, 
  muggy, 75º, 
   
  clear skies,  
  overcast skies, 
  windy, clear skies 
  very overcast, 
    
  no wind 
   
  20-30 mph wind 
   
   no wind 
   
   
  3 
  Very warm, 85º, 
     Cold, 40º 
  extremely cold, 
  warm, 70º, 
   
  clear skies,  
  overcast sky, sharp 
  -20º, overcast 
  5-10 mph 
   
  no wind 
   
  30-40 mph winds 
  20 mph winds 
   winds 
   
   
  4 
  Hot, 95º, 
    
  Warm, 65º, 
  Cold, 15º, 
   Warm, 65º 
   
  clear skies,   
  clear skies, 
  overcast,  
  20 mph wind 
   
   
  no wind, 
   
  no wind 
  winds to 5 mph 
   sporadic sprinkles 
   
   
   
   
   
  5 
   
  Very hot, 105º 
  Very warm, 75º, 
  Cloudy skies, no wind     Warm, 75º, 
   
  clear skies,    
  clear skies, 
  but hail for 1D10 min. 
   no wind, 
   
   no wind 
   
  winds to 10 mph 
   sometime that day 
  clear skies 
   
   
  6 
  Extremely hot, 120º, 
  Showers off and 
  Clear skies, 
  Cool, 45º, 
   
  clear skies,  
  on all day long, 
  no wind, 
  overcast, 
   
  no wind 
  cool, 55º 
  45º 
  20 mph wind 
   
   
  7 
  Hot and muggy, 85º 
  Unseasonably hot, 
  Unseasonably warm, 
  Hot 85º, 
   
  overcast, 
    
   
  80º, clear skies, 
   55º, no clouds 
  no wind, 
   
   slight breeze 
  no wind 
   or wind 
  clear skies 
   
   
  8 
  Cool morning fog, 
  Unseasonably cold, 
  Light snowfall all day, 
  Warm, 65º, showers off 
   
  becomes warm, 80º, 
  30º, no wind, 
  10-20 mph winds, 
  and on all day 
   
  clear skies, no wind 
  clear skies 
  cloudy, 35º 
   (1D20 min. ea.) 
   
   
  9 
  Unseasonably cold, 
  Very windy (30-50 mph) Heavy snow fall all day 
   Warm, 65º, 
   
  50º, slightly overcast, 
  with low, fast 
  30º, slight wind, 
  low fast clouds, 
   
  15-30 mph winds 
  clouds 
  cloudy 
  30-40 mph wind 
   
   
  10 
  Summer rain storm 
  Snow! For I D10 hours, Blizzard, high winds, 
  Raining (all day) 
   
  6-60 minutes (roll a Dl 0)   35º, 20 to 30 mph 
  no travel allowed, possi- 
  heavily, 
   
  roll again for day’s 
       wind 
  bility of freezing 
    muggy. 
   
  weather, and determine 
  to death 
   
  at what time the storm 
   
  appears. 
   
   
   
  Unless it is snowing or raining, each day’s weather has a 60% chance of staying the same for 1 Dl 0 
  days (then re-roll). GM’s should deduct miles traveled by characters for severe weather (like heavy rain 
  or snow storms) at the rate of 2 miles per day per hour’s worth of bad weather. 
   
   
   
  
   
  COMBAT 
  Understanding all of the combat factors involved in battle is neither the proper thing for a beginning player to try to do nor 
  the easiest. We have simplified this process so much that there are only a couple of things you will have to remember. The 
  first being that all battles are divided up into six-second melee rounds.  All combat functions are based on this six-second 
  segment. Remember there are bonuses and penalties that accrue to a character based upon their DEX and STR. These factors 
  are applied to the basic “Attack Factor” (AF) and basic “Defense Factor” (DF), of a character. The DF is a numerical rating 
  for the natural AC or worn armor a character has. The AF is a numerical rating of the kind of weapon or attack used. Simple. 
  Therefore, for each DEX and AGIL point LESS THAN 7 a character has, subtract 1 point from his DF. And by the same 
  token, for each DEX and AGIL point he has MORE THAN 12, ADD 1 point to the DF. 
   
  For the AF, ADD 1 point to it for each STR point a character has over 15 and subtract I for each STR point LESS THAN  
  Finally, ADD 1 point of damage to the struck target for each STR point over 15 a character has. Thus, those who are faster 
  and stronger are shown to have better defense, attack and more damaging power. 
   
  To determine the DF of a character, consult the ARMOR CLASS EQUIVALENCY CHART. To determine the AF of a 
  character simply check the WEAPONS FACTOR CHART. In both cases don’t forget to add or subtract according to your 
  DLX, AGIL and SIR. There you have the entire simple, and easy to use rules for AF and DF. For more complex and realistic 
  rules, read The Arduin Grimoire, Welcome to Skull Tower; and The Runes of Doom, which comprise the “Arduin Trilogy.” 
   
  To determine if an attack is successful all you have to do is to cross-index your weapon type against the DF of your 
  opponent. This will give you a Base Number you must role on a D20 to hit.  Remember, if your Base Number is, say, 12, you 
  must roll a 12 or more on a D20 to hit.  Don’t forget to give yourself any AF bonus you may have for your STR (or penalty 
  either!). The GM will factor in all the bonuses or penalties for non-player characters or monsters in a melee, telling the 
  players the adjudicated AFs and DFs as needed for play. 
   
  CRITICAL HITS AND FUMBLES 
  During combat sometimes blows either go 
  astray or find their mark exceptionally well. 
  This is reflected by fumbles and critical hits. 
   
  During combat if a 19 or less is required to hit a 
  specific AF and a 20 is rolled, that hit is a 
  Critical Hit. All damage and effects done are as 
  listed in this chart according to the critical hit 
  number rolled (which shows exactly what the 
  blow did). 
   
  Conversely on any attack roll where a 2 or more 
  is required to hit a specific AF and a 1 is rolled, 
  that hit is a fumble. There is a chart provided for 
  this happenstance as well. 
   
  ATTACK BONUSES AND DEFENSE 
  PENALTIES 
   
  Any person who attacks a target from the rear 
  gets a +3 bonus to their AF; from the side the 
  bonus is +2. If you are in a position HIGHER 
  than your opponent you get a +1 bonus. 
  Targets in flight get a bonus of 4 added to their 
  DF and those behind cover (i.e. shooting from 
  behind a tree or such like) get a +2 DE bonus. 
   
  All attacks made from the rear or on a downed 
  opponent allow the attacker to ignore the targets 
  AGIL/DEX and shield bonuses to its DF (DF 
  would equal AC, minus any shield). 
   
   
   
  ARMOR CLASS EQUIVALENCY CHART 
   
  AC9 
  Person in normal clothes, with no special 
  protection. 
  AC 8 
  Small shield and no body armor  
  Quilted cloth armor with no shield. 
  AC 7 
  Standard shield and no body armor 
  Leather armor and no shield. 
  Quilted cloth armor with small shield. 
  AC6 
  Tower/Kite shield with no body armor 
  Studded/Banded leather armor with no 
  shield. 
  Leather armor and small shield. 
  Quilted cloth armor and standard shield. 
  AC 5 
  Scale and Chain Mail with no shield. 
  Studded/Banded leather armor with small 
  shield. 
  Leather armor with standard shield. 
  Quilted cloth armor and tower/kite shield. 
  AC4 
  Half Plate armor and no shield. 
  Scale and Chain mail with small shield. 
  Studded/Banded leather armor with 
  standard shield. 
  Leather armor with tower/kite shield. 
   
  
  AC 3 
  Full plate armor and no shield.  
  Half plate armor and small shield.  
  Scale and Chain mail with standard shield. 
   Studded/Banded leather armor with tower/kite
   shield.  
   Greek Hoplite and Roman “Legionnaire”
   Armor 
  AC 2 
   Full plate armor and small shield.  
   Half plate and standard shield. 
   Scale and Chain mail with tower/kite shield. 
  AC 2+1 
   Full plate armor and standard shield.  
   Half plate and tower/kite shield. 
  AC 2+2 
  Full plate armor and tower/kite shield. 
   
  As you can see, any small shield takes armor up to the 
  next better classification; standard shields take it up two 
  classes; tower/kite shields take it up 3. REMEMBER that 
  all armor and shields have penalties for their use, shown 
  in a drop to the wearer’s AGIL and DEX.  
   
  Here is how to determine the penalty: 
   
  Small shields and cloth armor have a penalty of one each. 
  Standard shield and all leather armor have a penalty of 
  two. Tower shields and scale or chain mail have a penalty 
  of three (as does Greek and Roman Style Armors). Half 
  plate has a penalty of four and Full plate has a penalty of 
  five. Please remember to deduct these penalties from 
  BOTH the AGIL and DEX, and are cumulative! A set of 
  full plate armor with tower shield has a combined penalty 
  of 8. Thus a person with said armor and with a DEX of 15 
  and AGIL of 14 would be reduced to 7 and 6 while 
  wearing that armor. This penalizes his ability to move, but 
  has no effect on attack factor (AF) which is figured before 
  any penalty deductions are made. 
   
      A “natural AC” for a monster or other creature is 
  simply a reflection of how difficult said being is to hit, not 
  necessarily how hard their skin is.
   
  Combat Chart 
  Defense Factor (DH) 
  Weapon Type 
  9 
  8 
  7 
  6 
  5 
  4 
  3 
  2 
  2+1 
  2+2 
  2+3 
  2+4 
  2+5 
  2+6 
  2+7 
  Dagger 
  3 
  5 
  7 
  9 
  11 
  13 
  16 
  19 
  * 
  * 
  * 
  * 
  Short Sword 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  7 
  9 
  11 
  13 
  15 
  17 
  19 
  * 
  Broad Sword 
  4 
  5 
  6 
  7 
  8 
  9 
  10 
  11 
  13 
  15 
  17 
  19 
  1 ½ Sword 
  5 
  6 
  7 
  8 
  9 
  10 
  11 
  12 
  13 
  14 
  15 
  16 
  2 Hand Sword 
  1 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  6 
  7 
  9 
  11 
  13 
  15 
  17 
  Mace 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  6 
  7 
  8 
  9 
  10 
  13 
  16 
  19 
  * 
  Maul 
  ** 
  1 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  7 
  9 
  11 
  13 
  15 
  17 
  Battle Axe 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  6 
  7 
  8 
  9 
  12 
  15 
  18 
  * 
  2 Hand Axe 
  1 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  6 
  7 
  8 
  10 
  12 
  14 
  16 
  War Hammer 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  6 
  8 
  10 
  12 
  14 
  16 
  18 
  20 
  * 
  Morning Star 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  6 
  7 
  8 
  9 
  12 
  15 
  18 
  * 
  Flail 
  ** 
  1 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  6 
  7 
  10 
  13 
  16 
  19 
  Short Spear 
  1 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  6 
  8 
  10 
  12 
  15 
  18 
  * 
  * 
  Long Spear 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  7 
  9 
  11 
  13 
  15 
  17 
  19 
  * 
  Pike 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  6 
  7 
  8 
  9 
  11 
  13 
  15 
  17 
  19 
  Halberd 
  ** 
  ** 
  1 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  5 
  6 
  8 
  10 
  12 
  14 
  Throwing Knife 
  ** 
  1 
  4 
  7 
  10 
  13 
  16 
  19 
  * 
  * 
  * 
  * 
  Short Bow 
  ** 
  ** 
  1 
  3 
  5 
  7 
  9 
  11 
  13 
  15 
  17 
  19 
  Composite Bow 
  ** 
  ** 
  ** 
  1 
  3 
  5 
  7 
  9 
  11 
  13 
  15 
  17 
  Long Bow 
  ** 
  ** 
  ** 
  ** 
  1 
  3 
  5 
  7 
  9 
  11 
  13 
  15 
  Lt Crossbow 
  ** 
  ** 
  ** 
  ** 
  ** 
  1 
  3 
  5 
  7 
  9 
  11 
  13 
  Hvy Crossbow 
  ** 
  ** 
  ** 
  ** 
  ** 
  ** 
  1 
  3 
  5 
  7 
  9 
  11 
  Sling 
  1 
  2 
  3 
  4 
  6 
  8 
  10 
  12 
  14 
  16 
  18 
  20 
  Non Weapon  
  1 
  2 
  4 
  6 
  9 
  12 
  15 
  18 
  * 
  * 
  * 
  * 
  Quarterstaff 
  1 
  2 
  3 
  5 
  7 
  10 
  13 
  17 
  * 
  * 
  * 
  * 
   
  The variable attack matrix above shows the difficulties inherent in each weapon versus some kinds of armor while versus others they work much better.  A 
  20 indicates (usually) that a “critical hit” has been scored.  A * indicates that it is nearly impossible to penetrate this AC, but to ease game play simply 
  remember that a 20 always hits.  However any AC requiring more than 20 (marked with a * ) cannot suffer a critical hit even if a 20 is rolled.  further note 
  that a 1 usually indicates a “fumble” except where a 1 or less (**) is needed to hit the AC in question.  See the “fumble chart” for the appropriate results. 
   
  
  WEAPONS DAMAGE CHART 
   
   
  Weapon 
  Damage 
  Type of Damage 
  Dagger 
  3 points 
  puncture and slash 
  Throwing Knife 
  2 points 
  puncture 
  Short Sword 
  5 points 
  puncture and slash 
  Broad Sword 
  6 points 
  puncture and slash 
  1 ½ Hand Sword 
  8 points 
  puncture and stab 
  2 Hand Sword 
  10 points 
  puncture and slash plus some crush 
  Mace 
  6 points 
  crushing (spiked do tearing too) 
  Maul 
  8 points 
  crushing (spiked do tearing too) 
  Battle Axe 
  8 points 
  slash and crush 
  2 Hand Axe 
  10 points 
  slash and crush 
  War Hammer 
  7 points 
  crushing 
  Morning Star 
  8 points 
  puncture, crush and tearing 
  Flail 
  10 points 
  puncture 
  Short Spear 
  7 points 
  puncture 
  Long Spear 
  8 points 
  puncture 
  Pike 
  7 points 
  puncture 
  Halberd 
  12 points 
  slashing and crushing 
  Short Bow 
  8 points 
  puncture 
  Composite Bow 
  10 points 
  puncture 
  Longbow 
  12 points 
  puncture 
  Light Crossbow 
  10 points 
  puncture 
  Heavy Crossbow 
  15 points 
  puncture 
  Sling 
  6 points 
  crushing and puncture 
  Cudgel/Quarter Staff 
  3 points 
  crushing 
  Non-Weaponed (Hand) 
  1 point 
  bruising 
    
  Anyone who takes damage equal to ½ of their current HP in one blow is knocked down for one combat turn.  Also, all 
  arrows, crossbow bolts, spears and thrown knives, etc., have a 20% chance of IMPALEMENT for DOUBLE DAMAGE. 
   
  All “Monsters” that use fang, claw or other non-weapon attacks use the attack matrix line of the same name. 
   
   
  
  BASIC CRITICAL HIT CHART 
  Die Roll 
  Area Hit 
  Damage 
  Side Effects 
  1 
  Head 
  3 points 
  Stunned, fall down immediately, no 
  movement or combat for D10 
  combat rounds 
  2 
  Neck 
  5 points 
  Throat cut, die in D10 combat 
  rounds.  Immediate shock, 50% fall 
  chance 
  3 
  Shoulder 
  10 points 
  Shoulder smashed.  30%  chance of 
  D10 combat rounds of shock.  Arm 
  is totally useless 
  4 
  Arm 
  3 points 
  Major artery cut. bleed to death in 
  D20 combat rounds 
  5 
  Side 
  1 pt per rib 
  1 to 5 ribs broken, 20% chance of 
  lung puncture (halving all physical 
  attributes permanently) 
  6 
  Leg 
  10 points 
  Major muscle damage, immediate 
  fall, 30% chance for D10 combat 
  rounds of shock 
  7 
  Hand 
  10 points 
  Hand severed, immediate shock, 
  D10 combat rounds, 50% bleed to 
  death in D20 combat rounds 
  8 
  Foot 
  7 points 
  foot totally disabled, ½ agility and 
  speed with 50% chance of 
  immediate fall. (Permanent damage) 
  9 
  Chest 
  All 
  Heart destroyed, immediate death 
  10 
  Face 
  5 points 
  Blinded, 90% chance of 
  permanency.  10% chance for D10 
  combat rounds of shock 
  Whenever a leg, arm, etc. is hit, roll a D10 to determine if the left (1-5) or right (6-10) was hit, or if a shield is used it is: 1-8 
  unshielded, 9-10 shielded side hit.  A person in “shock” usually falls down and is incapable of coherent movement, combat, 
  etc. for the duration of the shock.  Only a 20 on a D20 roll allows the shock victim to remain standing. 
  For a much more complete Critical Hit Chart consult Volumes 1 and 2 of the Arduin Trilogy. 
   
  
  FUMBLE CHART 
   
  Die Roll 
   
   
   
  Immediate Result 
   
  1 
  Foot Slips, lose balance, no attack this turn 
  2 
  Hit wrong target doing ½ regular damage 
  3 
  Weapon slips from hand, 1 melee round to retrieve 
  4 
  Trip and fall, 1 to 5 melee rounds to get up 
  5 
  Foot slips, half fall, no attack this turn or next turn. 
  6 
  Weapon grip turns in hand.  ¼ damage to target only 
  7 
  Hit wrong target FULL damage 
  8 
  Weapon slips from hand and slides away.  1 to 10 turns to retrieve 
  9 
  Weapon turns in grip, no damage 1 melee round to re-grip properly 
  10 
  Stumble into opponent, no attack for either this turn 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  BATTLE BOARDS 
   
  A “battle Board” is the area in play where the metal 
  figures representing the characters are moved about 
  during combat or other situations. 
   
  The GM will draw out whatever section of a dungeon 
  the players are in (or section of road they’re on) and the 
  players will set themselves up in the formation that they 
  have been moving in. 
   
  Now all participants can see how much room there is 
  in the corridor or how close the trees are or whatever. As 
  each player’s turn comes during battle, his piece is moved 
  or he fights or he does whatever it is that he has decided 
  upon. Thus the course of events are visible to all, as they 
  would be in reality and everyone can see just where the 
  monsters are. 
   
  Because this eases game play greatly and enhances the 
  ”fun” so much, I strongly urge all players to use a Battle 
  Board and miniature figures during their games. 
   
  To obtain one you can either buy one (Indkia 
  Associates at P.O. Box 2900, Oakland, California, 9461~ 
  makes several very good kinds with a 5’ to the square 
  scale (one inch squares).) or make one yourself. 
   
  The board can be either squares or 6 sided “hexes” (as 
  mine is) and should be scaled to either 5’ or 10’ to the 
  square or hex. Mine is 10’ by personal preference. By 
  letting 1” equal 5’ or 2” equal 10’ you will find it is in 
  scale to the standard 25 millimeter metal figurine. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  The board should be a minimum of 24’ long and 18” 
  wide (mine is about 36” x 30”) and mounted on cardboard 
  or some other stiff material. Finally, it should be covered 
  in a plasticine material that can be easily wiped clean with 
  a rag or cotton balls. 
   
  A crayon or grease pencil is used to draw in the 
  appropriate walls, doors, trees or whatever is necessary, 
  and can be easily wiped clean and redrawn as the situation 
  requires.
   
   
  
  VII 
  MAGIK, 
  WHAT IT IS AND WHAT IT DOES 
   
  The next subject a player needs to understand is MAGIK! So to begin with you must know that there 
  are two basic kinds of magik to be dealt with: THAUMATURGICAL and PRIESTLY. The first is the 
  kind we think of when we think of mages casting spells and conjuring demons. The second is the type 
  that priests do, which is usually less flashy but of a stronger kind. This is because priests derive their 
  power from the gods they worship. 
    
  A mage must spend years learning his craft, either as an acolyte with an already established mage or 
  at a “College of Magik.” As a mage progresses in ELs he becomes able to do more complicated and 
  stronger magik. However all such magik requires the mages own “MANA” or “internal power” to make 
  it work. Without the mana, a spoken spell is just so much gibberish. 
   
   
  To find out how much mana a mage has, simply take the number of INT points he has as a base, 
  ADD 5 more for his training and there you have it. Now each time he earns another EL he will acquire 3 
  more mana points. For example: Merlin the Mage has just graduated from the College of Mages. He has 
  an INT of 15 50 his mana is 20 (15 for his INT, +5 for his training). When he earns his next EL he will 
  have 23 (20 + 3) mana points, and so on. 
   
  A spell has a specific mana cost that is put into it as it is memorized by the mage. As the mage speaks 
  the “trigger phrase”, the mana powers the spell and the spell is gone from the mage’s memory.  Once 
  used, mana takes 10 hours to “recharge” to working level. Thus a mage can only ‘cast” spells he has 
  memorized and which he has apportioned part of his mana into!
   
   
  For each order of power (or OP) a spell is, it takes 30 
  minutes to memorize (reduced by half per EL earned over 
  the EL needed to cast the spell). For each OP a spell is, it 
  takes 3 pages (minimum) to write it down in a book. Thus 
  an OP 1 spell would take ½ hour to memorize and 3 pages 
  of space in the mage’s “Book of Power.” Mages can use 
  magik of an order of power equal to ½ their EL (1st order 
  spells for 1st and 2nd EL, 2nd order for 3rd and 4th EL, 3rd 
  order for 5th and 6th EL, etc.). 
   
  Priests derive their mana directly from their gods at the 
  rate of 15 points at the first EL, and plus 3 per EL gained 
  thereafter.  Whereas a mage needs only a single combat 
  round to speak his spell, a priest must take one full 
  minute. This is because priestly magik also requires 
  proper obeisance (kow towing) to the god in question and 
  certain rituals (variable according to the spell).  
    
  A priest can “Lay on Hands” to heal those of his faith.  
  To do this costs 10 CON points and renders the priest 
  unconscious for Dl0 hours. The CON points (and 
  consequently HP as well) will return in 10 hours, however 
  the priest must rest for an additional 12 hours to regain  
   
   
  full functioning capability. This laying on hands will 
  completely heal any wound except a fatal one. However, 
  if a person is bleeding to death, it will stop the bleeding 
  and heal them. 
   
  Priests, unlike mages, do not have to “memorize” each 
  ritual in order to use them. The “know” the rituals “by 
  heart” and simply assign the raw mana to each ritual as 
  they perform it. 
   
  Finally, things of the “undead” variety have difficulty 
  approaching holy objects (alter pieces, religious symbols 
  or anything consecrated to the priest’s god) and priests.  
   
  By the same token a priest may attempt to “Turn Away” 
  any one undead by concentrating his “Holy Power” upon 
  them. Priests have a 10% chance of success for each 10 
  HP less than 100 the undead have. Thus, a priest has a 
  100% chance versus 10 HP undead but only a 10% 
  chance versus 100 HP ones. Those thus “turned” will flee, 
  not returning. Evil as well as good priests may do these 
  things.
   
  ____________________________________________________________________________________________________ 
  A Priest can, if he so desires, try to “Lay On Hands” and attempt to heal one not of his faith, however, a “God Reaction Roll” 
  must be make in order to see if the priest’s patron deity will allow this to happen. Roll a D20, a 20 means this maybe done, 1-
  19 means the god will not allow it. Add one (1) to the chance of success for each two (2) ELs the Priest is. 
  
  WHAT’S A SAVING ROLL? 
   
   
  “Saving Rolls” (SR) are simply a 
  generalization of a character’s chance of 
  avoiding some form of “harm” or other 
  “impingement” upon himself. All are rolled on a 
  D20. 
   
  For example; a character is bitten by a  
  poisonous snake that has 24 damage points of 
  venom. If the character makes his saving roll 
  (equaling or surpassing the indicated number), 
  he only suffers one half (½) damage (or 12 
  points in this case). By the same token, if a 
  character is in the area hit by a “Flash Point” 
  spell he would make a roll on a D20 to try to 
  “save.” If he made his save he would suffer ½ 
  the indicated damage, but if he failed he 
  would, of course, take the full damage. 
   
   
   
  Lastly, if a person is being probed psychically 
  (as in a “Mind Seek’ spell) he would also get a 
  “save” to see if he resisted such a probe. Making 
  his save means the probe failed, failing to 
  “save” means his mind will be probed. 
   
  The GM can expand the “SAVE” idea to 
  encompass anything he desires or as is needed. 
  See the Character Saving Roll Chart for the 
  base number required for each character 
  class/type to “save.” For each EL earned, the 
  Saving Roll is improved by + 1. 
   
  A “save” should be allowed for most magikal attacks. 
  “Mystic Darts”, “Tangle Trap” and “Mystic Chains” 
  are exceptions to this. Defensive spells, such as 
  “Wizard Dark’; “Mana Mirror’; “Multiple Image’; and 
  so on, do not allow any saves either.
   
  CHARACTER AND MONSTER SAVING ROLL CHART 
   
  Type 
  Dragon 
  Breath 
   
  Fear 
  Paral-
  ysis 
  Poison/
  Venom 
  Spoken 
  Spells 
  Device 
  Magik 
  Acid/ 
  Liquids 
  Lightning
  /Energy 
  Mesmer-
  ization 
   
  Stoning 
  Amazon 
  15 
  15 
  13 
  14 
  16 
  14 
  16 
  17 
  18 
  12 
  Avian (large) 
  18 
  15 
  16 
  16 
  17 
  18 
  17 
  16 
  18 
  15 
  Avian (small) 
  20 
  17 
  17 
  18 
  19 
  20 
  18 
  17 
  19 
  16 
  Dragon 
  9 
  6 
  10 
  10 
  13 
  12 
  9 
  14 
  13 
  9 
  Dwarf 
  18 
  13 
  12 
  11 
  15 
  13 
  13 
  13 
  15 
  12 
  Elf 
  11 
  12 
  15 
  10 
  13 
  11 
  12 
  16 
  14 
  10 
  Goblin 
  14 
  15 
  14 
  11 
  17 
  16 
  15 
  14 
  16 
  15 
  Half Orc 
  18 
  16 
  15 
  12 
  16 
  15 
  14 
  17 
  15 
  14 
  Hobbitt 
  17 
  14 
  15 
  13 
  17 
  15 
  15 
  15 
  12 
  15 
  Human 
  16 
  16 
  14 
  15 
  17 
  15 
  16 
  18 
  18 
  13 
  Insect (large) 
  16 
  5 
  14 
  10 
  19 
  18 
  12 
  18 
  17 
  15 
  Insect (small) 
  18 
  6 
  16 
  11 
  20 
  20 
  14 
  20 
  19 
  17 
  Koboldling 
  15 
  18 
  15 
  12 
  18 
  17 
  16 
  15 
  17 
  16 
  Mammal (lg) 
  17 
  16 
  15 
  15 
  17 
  16 
  16 
  17 
  17 
  16 
  Mammal (sm) 
  19 
  18 
  17 
  17 
  19 
  18 
  18 
  19 
  19 
  18 
  Ogre 
  15 
  14 
  18 
  12 
  14 
  13 
  13 
  16 
  18 
  13 
  Orc 
  17 
  18 
  14 
  10 
  18 
  17 
  12 
  17 
  19 
  13 
  Phraint 
  10 
  11 
  17 
  9 
  15 
  14 
  10 
  18 
  8 
  11 
  Reptile (lg) 
  15 
  14 
  18 
  13 
  16 
  17 
  14 
  18 
  18 
  18 
  Reptile (sm) 
  17 
  16 
  20 
  15 
  18 
  19 
  16 
  20 
  20 
  20 
  Saurig 
  9 
  16 
  14 
  10 
  16 
  15 
  9 
  12 
  18 
  10 
  Sea Creature 
  (large) 
   
  12 
   
  15 
   
  13 
   
  18 
   
  16 
   
  17 
   
  10 
   
  15 
   
  17 
   
  13 
  Sea Creature 
  (small) 
   
  14 
   
  19 
   
  16 
   
  20 
   
  19 
   
  20 
   
  12 
   
  16 
   
  19 
   
  15 
  Undead 
  14 
  NE 
  NE 
  NE 
  17 
  18 
  6 
  1/8 
  NE 
  NE 
  Undead (free - 
  willed) 
   
  13 
   
  NE 
   
  NE 
   
  NE 
   
  15 
   
  16 
   
  NE 
   
  16 
   
  9 
   
  NE 
  Uruk Hai 
  16 
  16 
  13 
  9 
  17 
  16 
  11 
  16 
  17 
  12 
   
  Plusses and Minuses 
  Some “classes” of characters get special benefits or penalties based on what they do versus the above.  A plus means on less 
  needed to save; a minus means one more 
  Warrior 
  -1 
  +2 
   
  +1 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Thief 
  -2 
  -1 
   
  +1 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Priest 
  +2 
  +2 
  +1 
  -1 
  +1 
  +1 
   
  +1 
  -2 
  +1 
  Mage 
  +1 
   
   
  -2 
  +2 
  +1 
  +1 
  +1 
  -1 
   
  Forester 
  +1 
  +1 
   
  +2 
   
   
  +1 
  -1 
  +1 
   
   
  NE = No Effect 
  
   
  SPOKEN MAGIK (SPELLS) 
  FIRST ORDER SPELLS 
  MAGIK DETECTION 
  This spell allows a mage to determine if an item is magik It will also tell him a percentile (die roll) about the actual magikal 
  workings of the item. Its mana cost is one and the range is ten feet. 
   
  MYSTIC DART 
  This spell converts one mana point into a burst of blue-white energy that flashes from the mage’s pointing finger. Consider it 
  as a heavy crossbow bolt (plus one to hit, plus one to hurt) for combat purposes. 120’ ranged. 
   
  QUICK FLAME 
  With this spell a mage can ignite any dry, burnable object up to ten feet away (such as dry wood, cloth, etc.), or cause 3 
  points of damage to a person. The mana cost is one, and remember; small fires only., 
   
  SWIFT SLEEP 
  This spell allows the mage to “put to sleep” any single creature of 24 HP or smaller in size per two mana points put into it. It 
  has a 60’ range and is instantaneous. 
   
  BONE SHAKER 
  This spell costs two mana points, has a 75’ range and causes the victim to have intense muscle spasms (and to shake 
  uncontrollably) for I Dl 0 melee rounds. It causes I point of damage per 2 melee rounds of effect.  All hand held objects are 
  dropped by the victim. 
   
  WIZARD WINGS 
  Allows the mage to glide for 30’ for every 10’ in height he has. However, the spell only lasts one minute per 3 mana points 
  put into it, so the mage had better land before his time runs out! 
   
  WIZARD GLOW 
  For a one mana point cost the mage can cause any single object to glow with a pale blue glow (equivalent to about ½ daylight 
  in strength) in a 30’ diameter area for one hour. This can be anything from a’ sword blade to a fingertip. 
   
  TANGLE TRAP 
  For a 3 mana point cost the mage can fill a 10’ diameter area with sticky, web-like strands that ‘will tangle and entrap (and 
  hold) any creature(s) up to 60 HP in size. It takes one melee round to “form” and lasts two minutes. It can be created up to 
  60’ distant, and is highly flammable (doing 20 points fire damage total if burned). 
   
  WIZARD DARK 
  For 2 mana points a mage can cause a 13’ diameter area to become inky black and totally light absorbent. This “blot” lasts 
  one minute, and can be cast up to 30’ distant. It can be made to last longer by adding more mana. Torches, wizard glows etc. 
  cannot be seen inside the area. 
   
   
  HYPNOS 
  By utilizing four mana points a mage can mesmerize any single intelligent being ‘with a lower combined total INT and EGO 
  than himself. This will last for one minute times the mages INT (30’ range), and the mesmerized person will follow the 
  mages commands literally in a robot-like manner. Any sudden shock will break this spell. 
   
   
  
  SECOND ORDER SPELLS 
   
  MYSTIK SHIELD 
  For a 2 mana point cost the mage can create a 7’ tall by 3’ 
  wide invisible shield 3’ in front, which will move with 
  him for one minute. This shield will completely stop all 
  normal missiles and arrows, but nothing else. 
   
  MANA MIRROR 
  For a 3 mana point cost, a mage can turn any reflective 
  surface (still water, mirrors, etc.) into a scrying device, for 
  one minute. He can use the “mirror” to see into locked 
  boxes, behind closed doors, etc. or to see events (when he 
  knows the exact location) up to 100 miles away! 
  However, use of this spell requires a one hour rest 
  afterwards, and if used more than three times per day it 
  has a 5% chance of causing the mage to go totally insane! 
   
  SIMPLE LEVITATION 
  For every one mana point put into this spell a mage can 
  raise or lower himself at 33’ per combat turn for one full 
  minute. 
   
  HOT FLAME 
  A more powerful “Quick Flame” spell with a 2 mana 
  point cost Range is 30’ and it will ignite even wet wood 
  or other hard to light items, and cause 6 points damage to 
  a person. The fire is still small (campfire sized), but very 
  hot. 
   
  MULTIPLE IMAGE 
  For every one mana point put into this spell a mage can 
  create three illusory images of himself. Each image will 
  last one full minute or until touched by a living thing 
  (they then pop like soap bubbles). These images move 
  with the mage, aping his every movement and gesture, but 
  are totally silent.    
   
  TRAP SENSING 
  For every mana point put into the spell the mage can find 
  all mechanical traps in a 15’ diameter area (use 3 mana 
  points and cover a 45’ area, etc.). The traps glow an evil 
  greenish-blue to the mage’s eyes alone. 
   
  OUT FIRE 
  For one mana point, a mage may instantaneously 
  extinguish any small fire (camp-fire size or less) up to 30’ 
  away, including those ignited by Quick flame or Hot 
  flame spells. 
   
  FOG CALL 
  For a two mana point cost, a mage can create a 60’ 
  diameter area of icy cold fog (visibility varies from one to 
  ten feet therein) up to 120’ away. This fog will last for 10 
  minutes or until blown away. 
   
   
   
   
   
  THIRD ORDER SPELLS 
   
  FLASH POINT 
  For a five mana point cost the mage can cause a 20’ 
  diameter area to super heat instantaneously to 1,000 
  degrees Fahrenheit, burning all in the area with 24 points 
  damage (to a maximum of 200 point total damage). The 
  range is 120’, and everything in the area that is burnable, 
  of course, ignites (reaches flash point) and also burns. 
   
  LIGHTNING STRIKE 
  For a 5 mana point cost the mage can cause a lightning 
  am to leap from his fingertip to any single target up to 60’ 
  away. The victim thus hit suffers 30 points of electrical 
  shock (damage), and all up to 40 HP are knocked down 
  and stunned for Dl0 melee rounds. The area is 6” in 
  diameter. 
   
   
  BLIZZARD 
  For a 5 mana point cost, the mage can cause a 20’ 
  diameter area (up to 60’ away) to become engulfed in a 
  minus 120 degrees Fahrenheit snow storm that will last I 
  full minute. Visibility is 1’ to 10’ and everything takes 
  DIO damage points for each combat round spent inside 
  the blizzard. All 20 HP or less creatures in the blizzard are 
  bowled over. 
   
  HAWK FLIGHT 
  For each 3 mana points expended a mage may “fly like a 
  hawk” at 330’ per combat round for 15 minutes (this 
  translates to about 37½ miles per hour)., And as a “hawk’, 
  the mage can hover, dive, turn, etc. 
   
  WIZARD EYES 
  For 3 mana point a mage can see clearly anything 
  invisible or hidden magikally from sight. This spell lasts 
  one full hour. 
   
  MIND SEEK 
  For a 4 mana point cost the mage can “see into” the 
  thoughts of other living entities for one full minute. This 
  allows the mage to see the “mind pictures” (not words) of 
  what the being is thinking about (30’ range). 
   
  LOCKJAW 
  This spell costs three mana points and has a range of 30’. 
  Any single target up to 50 HP that fails to “save” will 
  have its jaws spasmed rigidly shut for 10 melee rounds. 
  All up to 100 pts “lock-jawed” for 1 melee turn. For each 
  mana point more than the original cost a Mage puts into 
  the spell, another 10’ of range is added. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
   
   
   
   
  FOURTH ORDER SPELLS 
   
  ICE WALL 
  For seven mana points a mage can create a Wall of Ice 
  20’ long, 10’ high and 2’ thick up to 60’ from himself. 
  The wail lasts for one hour before beginning to melt. Any 
  creature attempting to break through it will suffer D10 
  points damage (all 40 HP or less creatures cannot break 
  through without pick axes or such like). The wall takes 3 
  melee rounds to completely form. 
   
  FIRE WALL 
  For a ten mana point cost a mage can instantaneously 
  create a wall of roaring flame up to 60’ from himself. The 
  wall is 30’ long 15’ high and will burn all passing through 
  it for I D20 damage points. It lasts one minute normally 
  but will burn an additional one minute for each one mana 
  point put into the spell over the initial ten point cost 
   
  GHOST WIND 
  For a six mana point cost, the mage can conjure a “Ghost 
  Wind” so powerful it will bowl over and knock down all 
  in its path up t6 35 HP in size. The wind is controlled by 
  the mage and can cover an area 120’ long by 30’ wide and 
  20’ high starting from his outstretched hands. It lasts one 
  combat round plus one round per mana point expended 
  more than the initial 6points. It blows gas clouds, fog and 
  such like away immediately. 
   
  DISAPPEARANCE 
  For a ten mana point cost, the mage can become invisible 
  to all normal sight for five minutes. He can extend this 
  time by adding two mana points for each additional 
  minute desired. 
   
  MAGE FEAR 
  For four mana points, the mage can “strike fear into the 
  heart” of any single intelligent or semi-intelligent 
  creature. Those thus affected will either flee in blind panic 
  for D10 combat rounds (80% chance) or stand “paralyzed 
  by fear” for D10 combat rounds (20% chance). The range 
  is 60’. 
   
  CHAIN BREAK 
  For a four mana point cost, the mage can either break any 
  non-magikal bonds (ropes, spider webs, chains, etc.) that 
  bind him alone or it can be used to unlock and open any 
  single door or other closure, including those magikally 
  sealed (30’ range). 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  MYSTIC CHAINS 
  For a four mana point cost, any single door or closure 
  may be so locked as to be unopenable, even if a key is 
  available. OR any single entity up to 60 HP in size may 
  be “rooted to the spot” and unable to move from it for ten 
  minutes. A being thus “bound” can do everything except 
  move his legs/feet 
   
  NOTE TO GM 
  These are by no means all of the spells available to 
  Mages. The three Arduin Books alone have several 
  hundred more and the list is limited only by your 
  imagination. 
   
  Remember however, that all new spells are only acquired 
  by finding old tomes and grimoires, or by months of 
  painstaking research by the Mage. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
   
   
   
  PRIESTLY MAGIK 
   
  FIRST ORDER SPELLS 
  BASIC HEALING 
  For each mana point expended a priest may heal any living creature for 10 damage Points. However, this will not heal burns, 
  acid damage or wounds of a “critical” nature (though it will stop the bleeding). Those healed thus, may be healed more than 
  once so that all damage may be removed. 
   
  BASIC PURIFICATION 
  For each mana point expended, the priest may totally purify up to ten pounds of dry material or one gallon of liquid. It will 
  not however, neutralize poisons or venom. 
   
   
  PRIESTLY MAGIK DETECTION 
  This spell is identical to the mage’s spell but works for priestly magik only. 
   
  AURA OF ANTI-EVILNESS 
  For each mana point expended the priest will radiate in a ten foot radius, a powerful, invisible, anti-evilness aura” for ten 
  minutes. All “evil” things within that area function at minus two (i.e. make it 2 points harder to function) and have a 90% 
  chance of (rolled each combat round) being totally unable to approach closer than ten feet to the priest. The “evil” priests 
  have their own variant that repulses “good” types. 
   
  MINOR MENDING 
   
  For one mana point, the priest can completely mend ten square feet of cloth, five square feet of leather, 2½ square feet of 
  wood or one square foot of metal. The repair is permanent and invisible 
   
  WATER FINDER 
  For one mana point, a priest can find any and all water within a 120’ radius (and up to 20’ underground). He simply “knows” 
  where it is. 
   
  GLORY GLOW 
  For two mana points, a priest can light up a 60’ diameter area to full daylight equivalency for ten minutes. This time may be 
  extended by five minutes for each one mana point used over the initial two points. 
   
  SPEAK IN TONGUES 
  For each mana point expended, a priest may speak, read and write any single language desired, known or unknown, for up to 
  one hour. This may be extended one hour per two mana points expended over the initial one point 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
   
   
   
   
  SECOND ORDER SPELLS 
   
  CONVERSATION 
  For each one mana point expended a priest can speak to 
  and understand any single kind of mammal, bird or reptile 
  for one minute. It can be expanded at a two mana point 
  cost per additional minute used. 
   
  SOUND WIPE 
  Any 20’ diameter area or any single being up to 20’ away 
  may have all sound suppressed for five minutes for each 
  two mana points expended. No sound enters, leaves (or 
  exists) for the silenced area/person. 
   
  HIDE FINDER 
  For one mana point cost, the priest can locate all secret or 
  hidden doors, etc. in a 30’ radius. They are outlined in a 
  bright golden glow to the priest’s eyes (only). 
   
  EARLY WARNING 
  By expending 3 mana points, a priest may be made aware 
  of any living being or creature thinking about harming the 
  priest or his companions. He can check a 45’ radius or 
  scan ahead on his proposed path to a distance of 180’. 
  However all thus “probed” get a “save” vs. spoken magik 
   
  DEAD WATCH 
  Identical to the above spell, this one seeks out all those of 
  the “undead” kind. They do not get a save and are always 
  detected unless cloaked or hidden magikally. 
   
  HOLY BLESS 
  For an expenditure of 6 mana points, the priest may 
  “Bless” any single individual of his faith. This makes it 2 
  points easier (+2) to do all attacks, defenses and saves as 
  well as operates at 2 levels above his normal EL. This 
  lasts for one hour. The priest can use this ritual to create 
  “Holy Water” (1 pint each time) which has several 
  properties: If drunk it will heal 5 points of damage. Each 
  pint will “burn” all “undead” types for 10 points. And if 
  used to draw holy symbols, these symbols will keep all 
  non-free willed undead from crossing said symbols. Free 
  willed undead have a 10% chance of reacting thusly. Holy 
  water stays viable for 30 days. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  THIRD ORDER SPELLS 
   
  NEUTRALIZATION 
  For each one mana point expended a priest may 100% 
  neutralize 20 points of poison or venom (in a person, 
  monster, wine cup, etc.) up to 10’ distant. Evil priest can 
  conversely “cause poison” this way. 
   
  HEAVENLY UMBRELLA 
  For each three mana points expended the priest can create 
  over’ himself a 30’ diameter, down curved, invisible 
  “umbrella” lasting 5 minutes. All liquids and light 
  material will run off like rain off an umbrella. It moves 
  with the Priest and may be extended by 3 mana points for 
  each additional minute used. 
   
  WATER WALK 
  For each 3 mana points expended a priest may walk upon 
  all liquids safely (acid still burns him, of course, he just 
  won’t sink!) for five minutes. It costs one mana point per 
  minute to extend the time period. 
   
   
  PATHFINDER 
  For a 6 mana point cost a priest may locate any single 
  door, stair or passage way up to 240’ away if it is at least 
  generally known to him. OR he can do the ritual and for 
  five minutes “know” the right path to take through a 
  maze, cavern, etc. It costs three mana points per minute’s 
  extensions. 
   
  NGHT EYES 
  For each 3 mana points expended a priest can give 
  himself or another person the ability to “see in the dark” 
  as an elf for up to one hour. Each additional hour costs 
  only two mana points. 
   
  DISPELL 
  For each 3 mana points expended the priest can dispel and 
  negate one order of priestly magik (9 mana points are 
  required to Dispel 3rd order magik). It works also versus 
  Thaumaturgical magik but at DOUBLE MANA COST 
  (Thus to dispel 3rd order Thaumaturgical magik, 18 mana 
  points are required). 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  FOURTH ORDER SPELLS 
   
  HOLY CURE 
  For a ten mana point cost a priest may cure any disease, 
  rot or such like affliction affecting any single being or 
  creature. Incidentally, this ritual quite effectively destroys 
  “slime & ooze” type creatures (if they fail their ‘saves” 
  and hold still long enough!), regardless of size or type’ 
   
  SERPENT CALL 
  By expending 10 mana points a priest; may “shape 
  change” any staff or other piece of wood (6’ long 
  minimum) into a snake/serpent under his command for 
  five minutes. The serpent is 12 HP, AC 6 (+1 for DEX) 
  and can move 60’ per combat turn. It bites for 2 points 
  PLUS a 20 point venom (decreasing five points per bite 
  thereafter). The change takes two melee rounds to 
  complete. 
   
   
  DEATH VOICE 
  For a five mana point cost the priest can cause any being 
  slain within the past hour to speak, telling whatever it 
  may know, for one minute. It will answer direct questions 
  only (not general requests). This may be extended by one 
  minute per ten mana points. 
   
  DEATH BREAKER 
  For an expenditure of 20 mana points a priest may attempt 
  to “call back” anyone of their faith who dies less than 5 
  minutes past. The chance of success is based on the dead 
  character’s CON points, for each one he has there is a 3% 
  chance of success. This is increased by 1% for each point 
  of WIS the priest has. He may try only once per victim 
  and must rest 12 hours afterwards. 
   
  SKYWALKING 
  For each 5 mana points expended, a priest may walk, on 
  or move about through the air (as if he were on the 
  ground) for 15 minutes. It can be extended by one minute 
  per 3 mana points expended. 
   
  BREAKWALL 
  For a 7 mana point expenditure, a priest may cause an 
  opening to appear in any solid wall or object for one 
  minute. This opening is 5’ high and 3’ wide, when it is 
  gone, the solid area is just as it was, with no harm done. 
   
  GODLY GROWTH 
  For a 10 mana point expenditure, a priest may cause 10 
  square feet of plant growth to grow l to 10 times its 
  normal size. 20 mana points equals 20’ square area 
  effected. It takes 1 melee round for each multiple it grows 
  to (3x = 3 melee rounds) and will stay thus for 10 
  minutes, reverting back to its normal size at the same rate 
  it grew. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  THE EYES OF GLORY 
  For each 5 mana points expended, a priest’s eyes will 
  glow and radiate golden light for one minute. The glow is 
  a 30’x15’ cone and all in its light must “save” or succumb 
  to abject fear (like “Mage Fear”). 
   
  PILIAR OF FIRE 
  For a 10 mana point expenditure a priest can conjure a 30’ 
  tall. 5’ diameter column of roaring, swirling flame up to 
  60’ away.  The flame will burn for one full minute and 
  cause 20 points of damage to all who touch or enter it. 
  When it goes out, the area where it was is not even warm. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  MAGIKAL ARTIFACTS AND TREASURES 
  During the course of play characters will come across items of a magikal nature. These can range from 
  enchanted swords to magik amulets that bestow protection, special powers or such like, to crystal balls 
  and other “working gear” of mages. 
   
  The following list will give the GM (and players) a general idea of what they are like. The Arduin 
  Trilogy has over a hundred other such items if needed. However, this list is detailed enough for the GM 
  to create his own treasures as needed. 
   
  MAGIKAL ITEMS 
   
   
   
  CRYSTAL BALL 
  Usually 4” to 10” in diameter and of 
  clear white crystal, these devices may be 
  used by any mage. They allow the user 
  to operate,-‘ without mana cost like the 
  spell “Mana Mirror.” However after each 
  minutes use, the mage must rest for one 
  hour. This item is normally worth 5,006 
  G.S. and is hard to find but not rare. 
   
   
   
   
   
  ENCHANTED WEAPONS 
  Usually swords, however they can be of 
  any sort, the more unusual the weapon, 
  the rarer they are. An enchanted weapon 
  is one that has “adds” to its combat 
  capabilities and sometimes even other 
  powers. These “adds” are in attack and 
  damage bonuses and can even include 
  weapons that burst into flames during 
  combat or that wail or sing in battle. 
  Most of these weapons have legendary 
  names. The only limit here is that of the 
  GM. 
   
   
  ENCHANTED ARMOR/SHIELDS 
  These items usually have “adds” to 
  wearer’s DE, adding to its armor class 
  and occasionally protection against fire, 
  cold or other dangers. An example might 
  be an enchanted round shield that is 
  ‘4plus three.” This means it has three 
  “adds” to the AC of the user, upping that 
  AC. 
   
   
   
  ENCHANTED RINGS 
  These, when worn, can protect against 
  fire, cold, dragon breath or whatever, by 
  giving 
  “adds” 
  or 
  “pluses” 
  to 
  a 
  character’s saving roll, OR it could 
  bestow invisibility or the ability to see in 
  the dark Anything the GM thinks 
  appropriate 
   
   
   
   
   
  ENCHANTED AMULETS 
  These are roughly equivalent to 
  enchanted rings but normally not as 
  powerful. They are thus more common. 
   
   
  ENCHANTED CLOTHING 
  This kind of magik is usually pretty rare 
  and could be anything from a pair of 
  boots that would allow the wearer to 
  “walk on water” to a cloak that acts as a 
  pair of wings, lifting the wearer in flight. 
  GMs should be careful about this kind of 
  magik, making it hard to find. 
   
   
   
   
   
                        MAGIK POTIONS 
   
  These are concoctions (usually liquid) that when drunk, 
  spread onto a character, or whatever, give many of the 
  powers of enchanted rings, amulets, etc. However these 
  powers are normally temporary, lasting an hour or less. An 
  example would be a potion of invisibility that when drunk, 
  makes the drinker invisible for say, a half hour. The GM 
  should understand that these potions are usually not 
  labeled, so are hard to discover without the help of a mage 
  (using a “Magik Detection” spell) even though they are 
  probably the most common magikal item made. 
   
   
  OTHER MAGIK 
                         
  This category can encompass anything from an enchanted 
  boat that can sail on land as well as water, to flying carpets, 
  or enchanted stone or wood figures that can move, fight or 
  do other things. These items, however, are extremely rare 
  and usually only found as the property of old and powerful 
  mages or priests. 
   
                             Special Note: Priests seldom make magikal artifacts, but if 
  they do, it is almost always of the lesser kind and of a 
  protective nature Also, GMs should strictly limit magik 
  items to be found in the game until such time as his world 
  has become established and running well. 
   
   
   
  
  MAGIKAL CONSTRUCTS 
  Mages have the ability to construct several 
  items of Magikal Might when they have 
  graduated from their studies. 
   
  These items are: 
  1. Their personal “Book of Power” wherein they write 
  down all of their magikal knowledge as they learn it’ 
  Each mage, upon graduation from the Mages Co liege 
  already knows any three OP I spells (15lus one more for 
  each INT point over 15 they have). * 
   
  2. “Magikal Scrolls “are parchments that have the full 
  “essence” and ‘power” (as well as all necessary mana 
  required for the spell) infused into it. Written upon the 
  parchment is a “Trigger Phrase” that must be spoken in 
  order to release the spell contained within the parchment. 
  This way a mage can carry several spells he has 
  previously ‘loaded” into these scrolls and not worry about 
  having to memorize them each and every day.  
  Remember, though, that once used, a scroll is empty of 
  the mana that was previously there, and is therefore 
  useless. It costs one mana point for each mana point of the 
  spell thus loaded (i.e. nothing extra) to “load” a scroll. 
   
  3.  “Wands “are small metal or wooden devices that can 
  be used to store spells, much like a scroll does. However 
  the advantage to a Wand is that there ~ no Trigger Phrase 
  that has to be spoken in order for the spell to be fired. The 
  mage simply “thinks the firing command” and it fires! 
  The only drawbacks are, whereas, a scroll only requires a 
  basic mana for each spell in question, a Wand requires 
  triple the amount in order to be loaded. Secondly, a Wand 
  can only hold three uses of the same spell. Thus if a mage 
  was to load the spell “flash Point” into a Wand, he could 
  only put three of those spells (or one triple strength one) 
  into the Wand. And remember each spell would cost 
  TRIPLE the normal mana cost, (i.e. a total of 9 times 
  mana cost for the three spells). 
   
   
   
  4.  “Rods” are bigger than Wands but smaller than Staffs. 
  They function exactly as Wands do with the exception 
  that everything goes by five. Thus that ‘Flash Point” spell 
  could be loaded five times into the Rod, or be of five 
  times power. The cost is still triple that of normal spell 
  cost (i.e. a total of 15 times mana cost for the five spells). 
   
  5.   “Staffs” are nothing more than bigger Rods, and work 
  on a by ten ratio of power. 
   
  6.  Each time a device is emptied of all its stored power 
  there is a 5% chance the device will shatter. A wand will 
  cost a mage about 50 G.S. to produce, a Rod will cost 
  about 150 G.S, and a Staff about 500 G.S. It will require 
  about three days or so to build a Wand, about three weeks 
  for a Rod and about three months for a Staff.  Wands are 
  not rechargeable, whereas Rods and Staffs are. Also, a 
  Rod can hold up to 3 separate spells (by 5s) and a Staff 
  can hold up to 5 (by l0s). 
   
  *    Priests know three rituals as for Mages and put them 
  in their “Book of the Word” 
  **  All prices to be adjudicated by GM as necessary. 
   
  Super Spells 
  And Device Magik 
   
  “DEVICE MAGIK” is magik that uses an item and not 
  the mage’s own spoken spell to achieve a desired result.  
  Wands, Rods and Staffs are all “Device Magik”.  Such 
  magik can never be more powerful than the device itself 
  allows, whereas a spoken Spell can have more power 
  “pumped” into it by adding more mana.  Thus a “Flash 
  Point” spell that normally does 24 points of damage, can 
  be upped by fifty percent in damaging power by adding 
  an additional mana cost to it equal to its original cost to 
  cast. That same spell can then be made to do 36 points of 
  damage at double its base mana cost or do 48 points 
  damage at triple its base cost and so on. However the 
  spell must be memorized in this “Super Loaded” manner 
  in order to be fired as such. This is a way in which a mage 
  may wield a great power, but only at the cost of wielding 
  fewer spells (due to the very high mana cost of so doing). 
   
   
  THE ARTIFACT CARD SYSTEM 
  The standard system used with the Arduin Trilogy to 
  enhance game play is one that includes pictorial cards. 
  These game aids have the picture of the item (whether it 
  be a magik sword or mystik ring) on the front, and a 
  “format” for all of the pertinent facts on the reverse side. 
   
  The GM usually colors the cord with art pencils and/or 
  felt tip pens and writes, all the required data on the back 
  as well. Thus whenever the player characters find such 
  items, the GM can show the item to them. Then the 
  players can endeavor to figure out (by arcane or other 
  means) what it does. 
  
  VIII 
  MONSTERS 
  AND OTHER CREATURES 
  (In alphabetical order) 
   
   
  BLACK LION 
  Huge, 1,000 lb. coal black lions with natural ACs of 7. They have DEX and AGIL of 18 each and attack each turn 
  with two claws for 9 points each OR a bite for 12 points. However, if both claws hit, they can attack again that 
  turn with their rear two claws as well!. “Normal” lions are about two thirds the Black lion’s 50 HP and 
  attack/damage. They usually appear alone or as a mated pair, and get +2 to their AF. 
   
  CAVE BEARS 
  These huge 2,000 lb. and 12’ tall creatures are voracious, fierce, and terrible to confront. They avera4e 68 HP and 
  have natural ACs of 6. Their DEX and AGIL are 15 each and they can either strike with two claws for12 points 
  every melee round OR bite for 16 points. There is a 20% chance every melee round that the bear will “hug” its 
  victim for 10 points per round. However to do so, an attack (either claw or bite) must have already hit that turn. 
  They usually appear alone or as a mated pair, and get +4 to their AF due to strength. 
   
  DIRE WOLF 
  Huge, dark gray to black, 600 lb. wolves that travel in packs of 1 to 20. They can bite once each turn for 10 points 
  and have a natural AC of 7. They are occasionally seen as mounts for goblins! They have 32 HP and DEX and 
  AGIL of 17 each. Their favorite food is Hobbitt! Their bite is +1 due to strength. They fear only fire. 
   
  DRAGON(S) 
  This magikal creature comes in several types, usually denoted by a specific color. But remember, dragons are 
  extremely rare creatures that live solitary existences far, far from most inhabited areas. Their temperaments can 
  range from cruel and heartless to inquisitive and sly. But always, I repeat, always, they care little for those 
  “lesser” creatures like men or Dwarves or Elves, and have little patience with anything having to do with them. 
  Dragons vary in size and power, but are generally one third their own HP in length. That means that a 90 HP 
  Dragon would be 30’ long (90+3 =30). Their wing span, when fully extended is normally about double their 
  length. So that 90 HP Dragon would be 30’ long but have a 60’ wing span! 
   
  To determine the “power” of a dragons “breath” simply consider its HP as how much damage said breath would 
  do. Thus the huge 90 HP Dragon would have a 90 damage point “breath weapon.” The damage is always divided 
  amongst those in its path. Thus if three people were h4 by the 90 HP Dragon’s breath, each would take 30 points 
  damage. Sure it is fearful, but Dragons are the greatest of all adversaries! 
   
  The “range” and “area of effect” of a Dragon’s breath weapon is again based on its HP. For each HP there is, it 
  extends 1’ outward and 6” in width. So that 90 HP breath would cover an area 90’ long and 45’ wide extending in 
  a cone from the Dragon’s mouth getting wider, the farther it travels. 
   
  A Dragon may thus “breathe” every third melee round for a maximum number of times each day based on its HP 
  size. For each 25 HP (or fraction thereof) a Dragon may breathe once. The 90 HP Dragon can then breathe four 
  times per day (90+25 = 3 3/5). 
   
  A Dragon can also attack with its buffeting wings, battering ram tail, rending claws and crushing teeth. Figure that 
  wings do 4 to 9 points each, the tail does 10 to 30 points, the claws 8 to 18 points each, and the jaws a fearsome 
  20 to 50 points per bite. Each GM will have to decide on just how terrible each Dragon is, based on its size and 
  age, beforehand. Finally, Dragons are “naturally magik resistant”, it having no effect on them 50% of the lime. 
   
   
   
  
   
  Here, then, are The Dragons: 
   
  COLOR 
   
  WHERE FOUND 
   
  WHAT THEY BREATHE 
  HP SIZE 
   
  Black (Bog Dragon) 
   
  Bogs and swamps 
   
   
  poisonous acid-like spray   
  55 
   
     
   
   
   
   
   
   
  (may maim/blind) 
   
  Blue (Sea Dragon) 
  On islands, always in or near water  
  High pressure water jet 
   
  65 
   
  (knocks down all up to its  
   
  HP in size) 
   
   
  Gold 
  In the clouds 
   
  Shattering Sonic Scream 
  100   
   
  (Dragon Lord) 
   
   
  this can powder rock!) 
   
  Green 
  Deep forests 
   
  Sleeping gas (all up to its 
  85 
  (Forest Fang) 
  and woods 
   
  AF are put to sleep!)  
   
  Red 
  Deserts and 
   
  Flame and Fire    
     75  
  (Fire Drake) 
  Hot Springs 
   
   
   
  Silver  
  On Mountain Tops 
  Scintillating lightning    
  80  
  (Krag Dragon) 
   
  bolts (all hit are stunned 
   
   
   
  for 3 melee rounds) 
   
  White  
  Cold 
  Cold howling winds   
  80 
  (Cold Drake) 
   
  (all up to its AF bowled  
   
   
   
  over!) 
   
  Yellow 
  Jungles and 
   
  Poisonous gas (takes 3              
  80 
   (Jungle Terror) 
  Rain Forests 
   
  melee rounds to go into  
   
   
   
  effect) 
   
  
  MORE MONSTERS . . . 
   
  GARGOYLE 
  These mystical monsters are slate gray, 7’ tall 
  humanoids with small curled horns, bat-like wings 
  and huge taloned/clawed hands and feet They are 
  fairly stupid but can be sly (and of course are 
  naturally mean and nasty!). Non-magik weapons only 
  do ¼ damage to them and silver (silver coated) 
  weaponry does ½ damage. They are naturally “magik 
  resistant”;  all magik not effecting them 20% of the 
  time. They usually appear in groups of I to 10 (two or 
  three being the number usually encountered) but only 
  at the behest of a mage or priest’s arcane rites. They 
  normally appear for one specific job, but can be used 
  as treasure guards. 50 HP, with DEX and AGIL of 17 
  and natural ACs of 3 make them difficult to deal 
  with. Their claws do 8 points each turn. 
   
  GHOULS 
  These were once “normal” people (of any rac4, but 
  usually human) that became involved in evil magik or 
  religions and who were warped and changed by this. They 
  shamble about, half bent over, shunning the light of day. 
  They are cannibalistic and will dig up rotted bodies to eat 
  the flesh they crave with all their being! They never show 
  fear, but will not stand up and “slug it out” if they can 
  help it. They sometimes carry bone cudgels but usually 
  rely on their claw-like fingers (5 points each hand) and 
  pointed teeth (7 points per bite) for attack. Their filthy, 
  slug-white bodies have a horrible stench but they have a 
  natural AC of 5, 33 HP and DEX and AGIL of 16 each. 
  They are usually alone or in trios (threes), and will grab a 
  victim and run. They also have a particularly venomous 
  saliva that causes all bitten by them to be paralyzed (in 3 
  melee rounds) for one hour. 
   
  GIANT SCORPION 
  One of the most vicious killers ever to be encountered, 
  these 18’ long, 45 HP horrors have a natural AC of 2 and 
  a DLX and AGIL of 19 each. They attach with 2 claws 
  for 1 Dl 2 each and a 6 point bite each turn. If both claws 
  hit they sting for 3 points with a venom that is fatal to all 
  creatures of less than 51 HP. They always travel alone 
  and once they have sighted their prey, pursue it for days at 
  war horse speed! A “save” versus their sting venom 
  means 20 points poison damage is taken. 
   
  GIANT TARANTULA 
  This ugly creature has a body the size of a Volkswagen 
  and legs that spread 12’ to either side. It can run as fast as 
  a war horse and is 39 HP. With a natural AC of 4 and a 
  DEX and AGIL of 19 each it easily catches its chosen 
  victim. It gets two foreleg hits for 5 points each and an 8 
  point bite each turn. Its venom does an additional 2 points 
  of damage each melee round after a one melee round 
  delay (for 1 to 10 rounds and a maximum of 20 points 
  damage). They usually hunt at night and of course fear  
   
   
  nothing in the world! They almost always travel alone. 
  The “web-silk” burrow linings are worth a fabulous 
  fortune! 
   
  GIANT WASP 
  The arch enemy of the GIANT TARANTULA, these 
  fearless winged creatures attack all. living things for food. 
  They have a natural AC of 3 and a DEX and AGIL of 20 
  each. They can either bite for 4 points or sting for 2 points 
  plus 30 HP of venom. All stung have a 50% chance of 
  being paralyzed for one full day. They have 22 HP and 
  usually appear in groups of 1 to 10. Their “humming” 
  flight is audible up to 300’ distant. 
   
  GOBLIN 
  These smallish humanoids (ranging from 4’ to 4½’ tall) 
  are slender but have over-large heads with bulging yellow 
  or orange eyes and huge, pointed ears. They have cat-like 
  fangs and have a dusty brown to dark chocolate 
  complexion. They have a natural AC of 6, but usually 
  wear brass studded leather armor and carry small shields, 
  short curved swords and daggers. They frequently use 
  short bows. They average 24 HP and have DLX and 
  AGIL of 15 (don’t forget their “adds.”). They usually 
  appear in groups of 3 to 30 Gust roll a D10 three times) 
  and for each 10 encountered consider one (1) as 2nd level. 
  They don’t like daylight Gust like Orcs) and hate 
  Hobbitts! They are about as intelligent as Orcs. 
   
  GREAT SERPENT 
  These huge snakes are usually emerald green with 
  glowing yellow-gold eyes and venom-dripping black 
  fangs. Ranging in size from 30! to 50’ long; they have HP 
  equal to their length (i.e. a 30’ long one is 30 HP) and 
  have a natural AC of 5. Their DEX and AGIL is 17 each 
  and they can either bite for 10 points (30’-35) /12 points 
  (36’-40’)/15 points (41’45’) or 18 points (46’ to 50’), or 
  “head butt” for 2/3 the damage. Their venom is equal in 
  value to their own HP the first bite, then 2/3s, then 1/3 
  then only 3 points thereafter for the rest of the day. They 
  swim 50% faster then they move along the ground and 
  relentlessly pursue their chosen prey. They almost always 
  travel alone. 
   
  KOBOLDLINGS 
  These miniature humanoid beings (averaging 3’ in height) 
  have small pointed ears, rat-like teeth, grayish skin and 
  dirty white hair. Their beady green eyes cannot stand 
  bright light so they keep to caves and the night. They have 
  an ongoing “war” with Dwarves who hate them as much 
  as they hate Dwarves. They have a natural AC of 7 and 
  wear Quilted Cloth Armor, carry cudgels, daggers and 
  slings and love to dig deep pits with sharpened poles in 
  the bottom to trap unwary travelers in. They are a 
  cowardly lot and appear in groups of 4 to 40 (roll a Dl 0 
  four times). For each 15 encountered consider one (1) as 
  
  2ndlevel. If more than 30 appear consider one (1) as third 
  level.  Uruk Hai scare the pants off them! They average 
  18 HP and have DEX and AGIL of 16 each (don’t forget 
  their “adds”). They are nearly as smart as Uruk Hai but 
  don’t like to show it, pretending to be dumber than they 
  are to put their enemies off guard. 
   
  MEDUSA 
  The classic beautiful woman with writhing serpents on 
  her head instead of hair. All who look fully upon her face 
  have a 90% chance of literally turning to stone! Those 
  who only “glance” quickly at her face still have a 30% 
  chance of becoming stone. She only’ has 30 HP and a 
  natural AC of 8 but sings like an angel to lure her victims 
  to her lonely’ waiting smile! A truly dangerous monster. 
  DEX and AGIL are 15 each. 
   
  OGRE 
  The smallest of the “Giant Family” this extraordinarily 
  ugly humanoid stands 8’ to tall, had 55 to 65 HP, DLX 
  and AGIL of 10 each, and uses a huge maul in combat 
  (his attack is +4 due to strength and does an extra 10 
  points damage). Very stupid and usually’ cannibalistic, 
  the Ogre has a natural AC of 6 and usually lives alone in 
  deep forests or in rocky, mountainous areas. They love 
  wine and get drunk very easily. 
   
  ORC 
  These are humanoid beings with pale semi-scaled green 
  skin, bright yellow eyes, large dog-like fangs and large 
  pointed ears. They stand about 5’ to 5½’ tall and are the 
  arch enemies of Elves. They have a natural AC of 5 but 
  usually wear scale or chain mail and carry round shields, 
  and scimitars. They average 34 HP and have DEX and 
  AGIL of 13. They appear in groups of 1 to 20 and for 
  every 8 encountered there will be one 3rd or 4th level. 
  Don’t forget their armor “adds”. They occasionally’ use 
  short bows or halberds, but prefer not to’ They are not as 
  brave as men. 
   
  PHRAINT 
  Bright metallic blue or green, upright man-sized insect 
  warriors. They average 30 HP and have DEX and AGIL 
  of 20 each. They can leap up to 30’ horizontally’ or 20’ 
  vertically and fight with light javelins and two handed 
  great swords. They have a natural AC of 3 (with 
  appropriate adds for their high DEX/AGIL). Their 
  average AF is not effected by strength as they are not 
  particularly strong. They are cold and emotionless 
  warriors of great intelligence who know no fear. For 
  every six encountered consider one (1) as 4th level. They 
  appear in groups of 1 to 20. 
   
  SAURIG 
  Desert Saurigs are tail-less and much less bulky than 
  their aquatic brethren. They stand 5’ to 6’ tall and are a 
  pale to dark tan color with yellowish stomachs. They 
  average 36 HP and have DEX and AGIL of 15 each. They 
  use round shields and a weapon called a Jhang (which is a 
  broad bladed wooden sword with obsidian “teeth” 
  imbedded in its edges. Consider it as a broadsword for 
  attack but give it 2 extra points for damage). Their 
  favorite mode of attack is to leap up and kick with their 
  clawed feet (4 points damage each) hoping to knock their 
  opponent or his shield down. 
      
  Swamp Saurigs are gray-green, tailed, 5½’ to 6½’ tall and 
  are much more bulky than their desert kin. They average 
  44 HP and have DLX and AGIL of 12. They use two 
  handed axes or battle axes and tower shields and also use 
  their tails (3 points damage) in a sweeping/battering 
  attack (20% chance of bowling a two-legged opponent off 
  their feet). This attack is used instead of their normal 
  attack as they must spin half way around to use it. 
       
  All Saurigs have a natural AC of 6 (don’t forget their 
  “adds” for shields, if any) and can bite for 6 points if they 
  get the chance. They are not too bright, are savage and 
  will eat anything they can hold down long enough to 
  swallow! All their AFs are +1 due to strength. Desert 
  Saurigs hate water and Swamp Saurigs hate dry places, 
  but both kinds hate humans greatly! They appear in 
  groups of 1 to 20 and for every 10 encountered consider 
  one (1) as 3rd level. 
   
  SKELETONS 
  These are the classic horrors seen in many a film; moving 
  skeletons of long dead men. They are set to guard tombs 
  and treasures by Evil priests and mages and never retreat. 
  They carry all kinds of weapons, some use shields and 
  some don’t. If they have no weapon they will claw twice 
  per turn (4 points each) with their bony hands and try to 
  bite (for 6 points damage). They only have 15 HP but 
  have a natural AC of 5. They usually have a small gem 
  (worth 50 G.S. or so) in each eye socket. Usually found in 
  groups of 13. 
   
   
  TROLL 
  This horrid creature is vaguely humanoid, a hunched over, 
  7’ tall, bony and thin and black as coal. Their bat-wing 
  like ears have a 90% chance of hearing sounds even as 
  faint as a heart beat within a 60’ radius but their weak 
  eyes can only see well in darkness or dim light (bright 
  light hurts their eyes). They are 40 HP and have a natural 
  AC of 2. With their DLX and AGIL 9f 17 each, they are 
  able to strike with 2 claws (for 8 points each) and bite 
  with their long, yellow fangs (for 6 points) each melee 
  round. Too mean to ever be afraid, these cunning 
  monsters eat everything they catch and have one horrible 
  attribute that makes them very difficult to kill. Each melee 
  round they “regenerate” (regrow-heal) 1 point of damage 
  they have sustained. The only damage they cannot heal in 
  that manner is that done to them by fire or silver. 
   
   
  
  URUK HAI (High Orc) 
  These are a larger, more fierce breed of Orc, standing 6’ 
  to 6½’ tall and having glaring red eyes. They have a 
  natural AC of 4 but favor half-plate armor and round or 
  tower shields (don’t forget their adds). They use morning 
  stars, battleaxes and small flails and all their AFs are +2 
  due to strength. They average 42 HP and have DEX, 
  AGIL of 14. They usually appear as “captain” of a group 
  of low Orcs. If they do appear as a group (usually 1 to 10) 
  consider half as 2nd level and all the rest (save a 4th level 
  leader) at 3rd level. They will on occasion use composite 
  bows or even 18’ pikes, but really prefer close combat. If 
  it is possible, they hate Elves even more than their lesser 
  kin! They are much more intelligent than Orcs, being 
  about as smart as men. There is no question that they are 
  very brave. 
   
  VAMPIRE BATS 
  Giant, 15’ wing span, blood sucking bats. Each bite does 
  3 points damage, and if not knocked loose, they can 
  “drain” an additional 5 points per melee turn from their 
  victims. They have 12 HP, a natural AC of 7 and DEX 
  and AGIL of 18. Their attacks are +3 due to their ‘sonic 
  homing.” Loud noises confuse them badly. They appear 
  in groups of 4 to 40 (roll D1O four times) usually at night. 
  They are not intelligent. 
   
  WRAITHE 
  This is the disembodied spirit of someone who is dead 
  and has his soul enslaved to some power or evil. They 
  have 40 HP and a DEX and AGIL of 20 each. Their 
  natural AC is 2+2 and they attack but once per turn, for 3 
  points cold damage. Each hit also drains 6 (six) CON 
  points from the victim. Those who have all their CON 
  thus drained become unconscious, and if then killed while 
  in this state will become wraithes themselves, forever 
  enslaved to the wraithe that slew them. They are never 
  frightened nor can they be mesmerized, and only magik 
  weapons or silver can hurt them (and silver weapons only 
  do ½damage). Priests light (“Glory Glow”) burns them 
  for 4 points for each melee round they are exposed to it 
  Survivors who have had CON points drained may regain 
  them if they rest completely at a rate of I per week Each 
  week not rested means I CON point permanently lost. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  ZOMBIES 
  Dead people “bought back’ as slaves to some evil being, 
  used as guards and killers of their enemies. They can 
  never feel pain or fear and never retreat or stop once set in 
  motion. They have 25 HP, a natural AC of 7 and can carry 
  any and all kinds of weaponry and armor/shields. They 
  usually have a gem valued at 100 to 150 G.S. inside their 
  sewn-shut mouths. Usually found in groups of 13 or 7 
  only. DEX and AGIL is usually 9 each and then AF is +1 
  due to brute, uncaring force. 
   
  NOTES ON  
  “OTHER” CREATURES... 
   
  The GM is encouraged to “invent” encounter 
  creatures himself. Things like Giant Rats, Huge 
  Amoebas, Large Lizards etc. Simply use the 
  preceding monsters as guidelines or try the 
  hundreds of creatures listed in the ARDUIN 
  TRILOGY 
   
  We also recommend the many, many monsters 
  to be found in ALL THE WORLD’S 
  MONSTERS; Volumes I, to III 
   
   
  
   
  IX 
  THE ADVENTURE 
  Now that you’ve read the rules you are probably saying “fine, but now what?” Well, this is what! Here is how to have your 
  first adventure! 
   
  The first thing the GM (you) must do is to think up a suitable “starting script” for your first adventure. Now, this script must 
  take into account how all of the players’ different characters will meet. This is easy, for you can have, say, a “special 
  holiday” in honor of the king’s birthday, where everyone for miles around has come to see the festivities. During this the 
  characters could meet accidentally, or at an Inn where they all just happen to be staying. OR perhaps the King will announce 
  a “Grand Quest” where all who wish to “bring the golden chalice of the king back to its rightful owner” may attempt to do so 
  (for some great reward or such). Or, how about all of the characters travelling on a boat to some island or other far away 
  place? They would certainly get to know one another then! So, you’ve decided upon your basic script, then what? 
   
  Well, then you decide on say, five or six encounters the 
  characters might have along the way. You take a piece of 
  paper and list: how many; what kind; how big; what loot 
  there may be (if any); names (if needed); reasons to be 
  there (if needed) and so on. Then, each day they travel 
  roll a ~ 0. If a one or a ten comes up then they’ve had an 
  encounter! You can choose which it will be or pick 
  randomly, it really does not mailer. (In more civilized 
  areas roll a 020, a 1 and 20 being an encounter). 
   
  Now you have to decide upon what’s waiting for them at 
  their goal. A Dragon and its treasure horde?  An Orc 
  encampment and captives to be freed? It’s up to the GM 
  to write this down on a separate piece(s) of paper so it 
  will be ready when the characters reach their destination. 
   
  As the characters travel to where they’re going, the GM 
  describes what they see as they “move” through the land. 
  For instance the GM says: “well, you’re crossing a grassy 
  plain, no trees in sight, but away on the horizon is a dark 
  line of tall mountains.” And later on in that same day’s 
  travel “you’ve gone about 12 miles now, the wind has 
  picked up to a nice little breeze, and ifs starting to cloud 
  over. Maybe it will rain tonight. The mountains are much 
  closer now, but still at least a day’s travel away. However 
  you can see off to the north-west a line of trees, a forest 
  perhaps, five or six miles away, what do you do?” The 
  player (speaking for his character) might say “I’d not like 
  to be caught in the open if a storm breaks. We should be 
  able to make the tree line before dark, where we can find 
  some cover. What say you my friends?” The other players 
  would, of course, respond to this (as their characters) and 
  game play would continue based on their decision. Now 
  you might ask “how in the heck do I know what it is the 
  characters are seeing?” This is not hard to explain, in fact 
  I’ll use that over-worked word again: It’s simple. 
   
  You take an 8½” x 11” sheet of graph paper (4 or 5 
  squares to the inch) and draw a little map of the country 
  (side) they will be traveling through. Each square could 
  
  be a mile (or more or less as you desire) with rivers drawn 
  in blue, forests in green, mountains in brown, towns and 
  road in red, etc. Now as a GM you have a map, but the 
  characters do not. They must draw one from your 
  description (if they want one) as they travel along! 
   
  So now you are beginning to see what a GM really is! 
  He’s a STORY TELLER! The better your descriptions or 
  stories are, the more “real” it is to the players and the 
  easier it will be for them to participate in your fantasy! 
  OK, now what? What if its a castle run by an Ogre or a 
  cave complete with tunnels full of koboldlings that is the 
  destination? How do you show this? Here’s how: 
   
  Using the same kind of graph paper, each area (whether 
  an underground dungeon or cave complex or an above 
  ground castle can be drawn up by you before hand. * 
  Each room, hallway or tunnel is drawn in and you have a 
  list to show what’s in each location. For instance, if there 
  are 26 rooms in this dungeon, each could be lettered A 
  through Z (or numbered 1 to 26) on the map. The GM 
  sees that the party is going to open the door to room “B”, 
  checks his list and might see something like this: 
   
  “ROOM B”, the walls are of red sandstone, the 30’ high 
  ceiling is of polished granite as is the floor. In the room 
  near a large (10’ long by 5’ wide by 4’  high) wooden 
  chest are three GARGOYLES.”  There would also be the 
  “stats” for the Gargoyles listed so no game delay would 
  be needed for the GM to prepare for the fight that appears 
  to be coming up. Treasure (if any) would be listed as well.  
  Once the fight is taken care of the characters proceed to 
  bind their wounds and bury their dead (if any) and start 
  their movement again if they wish. This sequence of 
  events is repeated throughout the adventure.
   
   
   
   
  SPECIAL BONUS 
  This complete adventure is included for two reasons: 
   
  1. 
  To show you how a basic script 
  is written from story line to dungeon. 
   
  2. 
  To give you a “first adventure” 
  as a starting point (or you can save it for later). 
   
  We hope you enjoy this adventure, 
  and that it will help you to better understand this form of gaming. 
  Enjoy! 
   
   
   
   
   
  *Or you may purchase, pre-drawn, complete dungeon and overland adventures: including several from the 
  Arduinian Universe, including “CALIBAN”; “THE HOWLING TOWER”; “THE CITADEL OF THUNDER” and 
  ‘DEATH HEART” from Emperors Choice at  www.empcho.com  
  
   
   
  MEDUSA with TROLL bodyguard 
   
  
  X 
  THE FORGOTTEN TOWER 
  Legend has it that about 500 years ago the 
  evil and ancient mage “Kharkoram the Black” 
  was driven forth from the lands by the priest-
  king “Zandring True Heart.”  Vowing 
  vengeance, the sorely wounded mage went into 
  the mountains to bide his time and to plot his 
  return. Gathering Orcs, Goblins and scores of 
  other evil creatures around him, he had them 
  build a wizard’s tower where he could be safe 
  and recuperate, and filled it with all manner of 
  unspeakable abominations.
      Using his great knowledge, the mage began a series of horrific and terrifying conjurations designed to 
  give him even greater powers. Thirteen years passed while he did his evil works and the land, now 
  peaceful, forgot the bloody past. Sensing that the time was right, the evil one gathered his forces and 
  struck. With fire and dark magik his army battered the lands that had cast him out. With the issue in 
  doubt, Zandring and Kharkoram met once again in mortal combat. 
   
  The battle raged for seven hours, neither giving ground, both bloodied and gravely hurt.  Finally, 
  throwing caution to the gods, Zandring took a desperate gamble, and succeeded! Struck through the heart 
  by the good king’s enchanted blade, the wizard burst into black flame and was destroyed. But in so 
  killing his foe, good Zandring was also mortally wounded and died himself soon thereafter.
   
  Seeing their leader struck down, the evil army of Orcs and 
  other foul beings lost heart, broke and tried to run. Few 
  escaped the victorious warriors, now inspired, that swept 
  over the plain like a flood.  Peace once again came to the 
  land and Kharkoram’s memory slipped away like some 
  long-past nightmare. Decades, centuries, passed and even 
  the legend became dim and the land forgot. 
   
  Then one day, a dusty traveler in an Inn told a story of 
  how he and three companions had come through on old, 
  forgotten mountain pass in the north. He spoke of the 
  strange, black tower of polished stone they had found and 
  of their venturing through its massive iron gate.  He 
  hesitates then, gulping his wine to steady his shaking hand 
  and tells of the treasure they found, but only he lived to 
  speak of it. Showing a small, carved figure of fabulous 
  black jade to prove what he has spoken, he mumbles 
  something about “monsters, horrible howling monsters,” 
  and refuses to say anything more except this: 
   
   “I would not venture again to that foul place for all the 
  treasure in the land. But, for a small price, I will draw you 
  a map so that you can!” Now it is up to you. Dare you 
  seek out the Forgotten Tower? 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  KEY 
  TO FORGOTTEN TOWER 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  ?
  ?
  ?
  
  Description 
  The tower is built of smooth black basalt blocks standing 
  80’ tall. The first floor has a1 15’ ceiling height, all other 
  upper levels have 10’ ceilings. The floor between each 
  level is 3’ thick, the roof being 2’ thick. 
  The base floor is 20’ thick and the “basement” room has a 
  15’ ceiling. 
   
  The limestone caverns have stalactites and stalagmites 
  and are variable in ceiling height from 7’ to 70’ as the 
  GM so desires. It’s dank and drippy with small pools of 
  water, lichen, fungus and cave moss everywhere. 
   
  During the long centuries many strange and secretive 
  creatures came upon the tower. Some stayed, others did 
  not, but all left their mark. Exploring this tower and 
  cavern complex’ will give adventurers a chance to 
  encounter all sorts of creatures and give them a chance to 
  discover treasure. 
   
  The Traps 
  There are thirteen mechanically activated traps in the 
  tower, pre-set to work once without resetting. The GM 
  can position them wherever he chooses (but once set, are 
  forever after at that location). 
   
   
   1.  A 5’x5’ opening appears and drops the victim 15’ 
  onto 5’ steel spikes. 
   
  2.  A 1000 lb. 5’ square block of stone falls onto the 
  victim(s). 
   
  3.  A spring-loaded 8’ steel spear shoots out, impaling the 
  victim for 20 points damage. 
   
  4.  A spring-loaded 5’ steel sword blade (2 handed) 
  slashes across the victim for 20 points damage. 
   
  5.  As above, but it slashed down towards its victims for 
  20 points damage. 
   
  6.  Ten iron heavy crossbow bolts fire down the length of 
  the corridor. (Treat as ten separate basic heavy crossbow 
  attacks on all in the line of fire). 
   
  7.  A 5’ diameter “puff’ of 30 point poison gas erupts 
  (lasting I melee round). 
   
  8.  A 5’ wide, 10’ long “cone” of 50 point acid is sprayed 
  out (divide the damage among those it hits). There is a 
  50% permanent blinding chance, rolled for each eye. 
   
  9.  A spring-loaded poison needle is concealed in the door 
  latch (for 32 points damage). 
   
  10. A 30 point electrical charge is set in the door latch, 
  activating as it is moved. 
   
   
  11.  The entire room will be filled with a “flash 
  Point Spell” as soon as the exit door’s latch is touched. It 
  is of 100 points in damage power. 
   
  12.  An area 10’ in diameter is covered in flaming oil 
  (pouring from the ceiling). All in the area take 20 points 
  of damage for each melee round in the flames, which burn 
  for Dl0 rounds. All clothing, etc. also burns for an Extra 1 
  point of damage for 1 Dl0 turns. 
   
  13.  All entrances to this room are actually thin wood (or 
  plaster) coverings over 4” thick steel. All of which will 
  irrevocably close and lock one minute after the room is 
  entered. There is no way out. 
   
  NOTE: whenever damage is not indicated, consider the 
  trap fatal. Also note that those traps that impale, strike, or 
  otherwise, hit their victims have a 50% chance of doing a 
  “Critical Hit” as well. 
   
  GROUND LEVEL 
   
   
   
   
  Room #1 
  Description & Treasure 
  The inner entry door is of solid iron and has a 4” x 6” 
  drop bar as well as a “four key lock.” The room is richly 
  paneled in cherry wood and hanging from the silver gilt 
  ceiling on a 5’ polished copper chain is a 3’ diameter 
  crystal tiered chandelier. Both entry-way doors are closed 
  but unlocked. 
  Guardians 
  There is a 10% chance of an QRC warrior being here each 
  time the room is entered. The GM can decide on his 
  “stats” beforehand. However, he will be in the process of 
  leaving carrying a back pack with 350 C.P. inside. 
   
   
  
  Room #2 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was a “ready guard room” and has bunks, weapons 
  racks, table and chair, etc. for 12 men. There are six 
  heavy crossbows (and 120 quarrels); and 6 eight foot 
  spears in weapons racks on the east wall. Hidden in the 
  straw mattress of one of the bunks is a small leather 
  pouch with 7 G.S., 23 S.P and 10 C.P. in it. On the table 
  is a 6” tall painted plaster idol of the god “Set.” Inside the 
  idol is a small ruby worth 365 G.S. 
   
  Guardians 
  There is a 30’ long, 30 HP Great Serpent coiled and 
  hidden beneath the bunk next to the secret door, in the 
  east wall. It will attack only if bothered or if the small idol 
  of Set is taken or broken. Otherwise it simply watches 
  everything that happens peacefully. See the Monster List 
  for further starts. 
   
  Room #3 
  Description and Treasure 
  A guard room the mirror image of room #2. However in 
  here the table and one of the 4 chairs is overturned, and 
  all the weapons have been knocked from the rack. There 
  is no serpent 
   
  Guardians 
  A mated pair of Dire Wolves have a lair here. See the 
  monster list for their “stats.” They are very aggressive and 
  will immediately attack all who enter their room because 
  there are a pair (both female) of 3 week old cubs to 
  protect! 
   
  Room #4 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was a huge “common room where the troops ate 
  their meals and spent their off-duty hours. There are nine 
  15’x 3½’ wood plank tables and a score of plank benches 
  here. About half are overturned, and several are broken or 
  badly smashed. The room is a mess and an Orc skeleton 
  with a bashed-in skull (rotted tatters of leather armor) is 
  half under a broken table in the center of the room. 
  Rubbish is everywhere. 
   
  Guardians 
  Hiding in a spider silk “nest” under a pair of broken and 
  overturned tables is a Giant Tarantula. See the monster 
  list for its “stats”. It hasn’t eaten in 2 weeks and is 
  starved, so it will leap out and attack whoever first 
  approaches its hiding place near stair ”A”.  There is a 
  10% chance the spider has gone down stair “A” to hunt in 
  the basement/caverns. 
   
  Room #5 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was a kitchen with ovens, roasting pits, stew pots, 
  chopping blocks, food bins, etc. It is a total wreck with 
  smears of long dried food, excrement and filth 
  everywhere. It smells like a garbage dump and scattered 
  throughout are some nine (9) withered skeletal husks of 
  the Tarantula’s (in room 4) victims, including those of 
  two Orcs, and two Goblins. 
   
  Guardians 
  A third level Koboldling thief is hiding under a large 
  copper pot in the southwest corner (where the tarantula 
  chased him). His name is Rizak and he knows about the 
  “coin box” in room 28 on the 4th floor. He’ll only tell 
  someone about it as a last resort to insure his safety. The 
  GM can decide on his stats. 
   
  Room #6 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was a store room, and is filled with wooden boxes 
  and wicker baskets of food (long since ruined), blankets, 
  axe, spear, and arrow heads, a dozen bronze round 
  shields, pots, pans, and other such items. The GM can add 
  or delete from this list as desired. 
   
  Guardians 
  No guards here. 
   
  FIRST FLOOR 
   
   
  Room #7 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was the throne room, the huge, 7’ tall throne of red 
  carnelian sitting next to the west wall. This throne is 
  carved all over in scenes of horrific demon worship and 
  death. It sits on a 3’ high stepped dais of yellow marble 
  and the walls have rich purple drapes hung all round. 
  Under the velvet seat cushion is a small “treasure vault,” 
  locked, containing 80 black pearls worth 25 G.S. each, 40 
  R.S., 160 G.S. and seven 10 lb. silver bars worth 16 G.S. 
  each (112 G.S. total). 
   
  Guardians 
  There are four Uruk Hai in the throne room looking for 
  
  treasure. The leader, Goragg, is 4th level, wearing half 
  plate, with round shield, and carries a battle axe. His three 
  henchmen, Argaak, Morgakk, and Lashaag, are all 2nd 
  level and are wearing full chain mail with round shields. 
  Two have spiked maces and the third has a morning star. 
  The leader has a pouch with 47 S.P., the other three have 
  30 S.P. between them. See the monster list for other 
  “stats.” 
   
  Room #8 
  Description & Treasure 
  This is a store room and stairwell. In it are some 200 bags 
  of grain of which about 30 have been eaten into by the 
  horde of rats living here. 
   
  Guardians 
  Some 90 rats live here, each being a foot long, 1 HP, AC 
  8 and with DEX and AGIL of 17 each. They bite once per 
  turn for 1 point each and will fiercely protect “their grain” 
  from all intruders. 
   
  Room #9 
  Description & Treasure 
  This is a store room and stair well containing 30 huge 100 
  gallon wooden water kegs. The water is, of course, now 
  stagnant and poisonous and most of the kegs are covered 
  in yellow-green lichen and moss and are nearly rotten 
  through. Any solid “bump” will cause the kegs to break 
  open. 
   
  Guardians 
  No guards here 
   
  Room #10 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was the armor maker’s shop and there are tools, tool 
  benches and such like everywhere. There is also a 
  complete set of Orcish half plate armor here as well as an 
  Orc’s chain mail short sleeve tunic (waist length). 
   
  Guardians 
  A pair of 2nd level Goblin thieves, named Shugg and 
  Vrexel, are in here hiding from the Uruk Hai. Both are 
  wearing chain mail and have a short sword, dagger and 
  light crossbow (20 quarrels each). One has a pouch of 17 
  S.P., the other has 12 S.P. See the monster list for other 
  “stats.” 
  Room #11 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was the weapon maker’s shop and has his tools and 
  work benches, small furnace with bellows and such like 
  all about. There are 3 iron daggers, 2 bronze scimitars and 
  a fine, steel 2 handed sword here, as well as forty iron 
  quarrel heads and a crossbow without its “string.” 
  Guardians 
  No Guards here. 
   
   
  Room #12 
  This was the “wine room” and there are 145 bottles of it 
  here. Most are still good but a few have turned to vinegar. 
  One has become lethally poisonous. There are also five 
  empty bottles! 
   
  Guardians 
   
  A thoroughly drunken 2nd level Orc is sitting here half 
  asleep. His name is Dungwort, and is wearing leather 
  armor and has a rusty scimitar in his lap. He also has a 
  pouch of 48 C.P. in his pocket. 
   
  Room #13 
  Description & Treasure 
   
  This was the “Ale Room” and a dozen 5 gallon kegs are 
  stored here. Ten are still drinkable. 
   
  Guardians 
  No guards here. 
  No guards here 
  Second Floor 
   
   
  Room #14 
  Description & Treasure 
   
  This was a guard room and stair well and is furnished 
  with six wooden chairs and a table. There are also six 
  bucklers and six short swords hung on the walls. An iron 
  trap door closes up the stair way entrance and the Goblins 
  packs are stacked on top of it. The packs are full of 
  Goblin rations and gear. 
   
  Guardians 
  Four Goblins in studded leather with broadswords, 
  bucklers and 2 light javelins each are sitting at the table 
  dividing up ~25 S.P. and 175 C.P. in 5 small bags. The 
  leader, Orando is 3rd level, his three followers: Doonrah, 
  Kherda and Vaskar are all 2nd level. The leader has a 
  silver hilted, silver plated steel boot knife. All have DEX 
  and AGIL of 13 each except Orando who’s 15 each. See 
  the Monster List for further stats. 
   
  
  Room #15 & 16 
   
  Description & Treasure 
  These were barracks with bunks, chairs, tables, etc. for 18 
  men in each one. In a foot locker in room 16 is a “false 
  bottom” inside of which is a black velvet pouch with a 8” 
  high blue crystal icon of “BORLAS” god of the winds. 
  This is valued at 504 G.S. However, a spring-loaded 
  poison needle protects the secret latch (40 points of 
  poison). 
   
  Guardians 
  In room 16 is a sleeping Cave Bear (see the Monster list 
  for “stats”). He will only wake up if bothered or on a die 
  roll of 9 or 10 on a D10 if there is someone in the room. 
  (Roll each melee round). He will be angry at being 
  awakened. 
   
  Room#17 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was a prison cell for captives and both entry doors 
  are solid iron, 4” thick. It is bare throughout and both 
  doors are locked. Through the “peep holes” in them, a 
  viewer can see the skeletons of three people (who starved 
  to death over 500 years ago.) One of them has a gold ring 
  that allows the wearer to become invisible for one hour 
  daily. The ring is not visible from the peep holes because 
  the owner hid it in his mouth when he was caught. 
  Guardians 
  No guards here. 
   
  Room #18 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was the “Torture Chamber” and has such horrible 
  implements as “the Iron Maiden”; “the rack” and other 
  nasty things. There are the skeletons of two Dwarf 
  prisoners who were tortured to death here. There is no 
  treasure here but many interesting implements may be had 
  depending on the GM’s imagination. 
   
  Guardians 
  No guards here! 
   
  Room #19 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was where the evil mage once kept his “pet” 
  TROLL. Once his master died the TROLL freed himself 
  and now only returns here to sleep. He has amassed six 
  large bags of coins (each holding 300 coins). Five hold 
  silver, one holds gold. He also has a crystal ball hidden 
  under the pile of moldy straw he uses for a bed. 
   
  Guardians 
  There is a 50% chance the Troll “Gurgog” will be here 
  (and if he is it’s a 30% chance he’ll be awake). If he’s not 
  here there is a 20% chance each minute people are in this 
  room that he will return. See the Monster List for more 
  stats. 
   
  THIRD FLOOR 
   
   
   
  Room #20 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was a barracks that housed 16 Orcs, and has all the 
  usual stuff bunk beds, foot lockers, etc. In one foot locker 
  is a small bag of 40 S.P. Also there is a carved bone 
  whistle of piercing note (loud!). 
   
  Guardians 
  A Ghoul (see monster list for “stats”) is here eating 
  what’s left of the rotted, 10 day old remains of a Goblin. 
  His name is “Black Durnin” and is insane! He has a silver 
  ring of 100% fire resistance on his little finger. You can’t 
  burn him. 
   
  Room #21 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was a Goblin Barracks outfitted for 18 Goblins. No 
  treasure, no surprises. 
   
  Guardians 
  No guards here. 
   
  Room #22 
  Description & Treasure 
  Another barracks, but outfitted for a dozen Uruk Hai.  All 
  of the foot lockers here are of thick (1”) bronze and have 
  sturdy locks. In each of the 12 there is an identical pay 
  pouch containing 3 gold coins and 15 silver ones. 
  However in one there is also a map to the entire tower! 
  Also here is the enchanted broadsword “Dark Moon.” It Is 
  plus 2 to attack and does 2 points extra damage per hit 
  The person using it may also see In the dark like an Elf 
  (while the sword is in hand). Its scabbard is black velvet-
  covered silver and has 20 small emeralds encrusting it 
  worth 1,100 G.S. total. The sword is laying on the top 
  bunk of the two bunks nearest the door to stairway “E”. 
   
  
  Guardians 
  Living here now is the Gargoyle “Thagg.” He is sitting on 
  the top bunk next to the sword “Dark Moon,” thinking 
  about what to do with it. He does not like people much.  
  In fact he’s eaten a few in his 1000 year long life! Due to 
  his deep concentration there is a 20% chance of surprising 
  him if the entry doors are opened quietly. See the Monster 
  List for his stats. 
   
  Room #23 
  Description & Treasure 
  Another barracks (this one set up for 16 Half-Orc 
  warriors) with nothing of real value. 
   
  Guardians 
  No guards here. 
   
  Room #24 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was an armory and the following weapons are stored 
  here: 8 short bows; 8 composite bows; 12 scimitars (good 
  steel); 12 iron daggers; 9 solid bronze, spiked maces; 13 
  oak & iron 8’ shields; 10 iron double-headed battle axes; 
  400 arrows;  
  19 bronze helmets (with nose guards). 
   
  Guardians 
  No guards here. 
   
  Room #25 
  Description & Treasure 
  This is a stair well, but has walls covered with gory 
  murals of slaughter, murder and war, showing Orcs, 
  Goblins, Trolls, etc killing men, Elves, Dwarves and such 
  like. 
  Guardians 
  There is a 20% chance that three Orc warriors in chain 
  mail with round shields, carrying scimitars are here. See 
  monster list for “stats.” 
   
   
  FOURTH FLOOR 
   
   
   
  Room #26 
   
  Description & Treasure 
  This was the “harem” of the evil mage. The floor, ceiling, 
  and walls are covered in expensive multicolored silk 
  hangings, cushions, rugs and such like. There are four 
  large (4½’;3½’,3’ high) brass bound oak chests along the 
  south wall. Each has a sturdy bronze lock. Inside each are 
  numerous bottles, jars and containers of rare perfume, 
  incense, body oils and cosmetics. If all 170 pounds of this 
  paraphernalia were sold it would bring about 2,000 G.S.! 
  Also in one chest is a hidden compartment (not trapped) 
  with an enchanted amulet of silver (shaped like a grinning 
  skull, 2” around with tiny ruby eyes). The amulet gives 
  the wearer six extra strength points while worn! If this 
  brings the character to more than a 20 STR, then every 
  point over 20 is added to the wearer’s CON. 
   
  Guardians 
  A Wraithe is within this room (see monster list for 
  “stats”), inside the chest containing the enchanted amulet. 
  It is the angry spirit of a young girl cruelly tortured and 
  driven insane before being murdered. She will attempt to 
  kill all males she encounters but will only drive away 
  females she meets, wailing and moaning the entire while. 
   
  Room #27 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was a barracks for three Ogres. The room is in 
  disarray and smells bad (like old sweat socks). The table 
  and chairs, etc. are built for beings over 8’ tall. In the 
  north east corner is a very large sack containing 1,180 
  copper coins. There is a cooking area on the floor and 
  several piles of semi-edible koboldling food and other 
  gear scattered about the room. 
   
  Guardians 
  Five Koboldlings, all 1st level except their 3rd level leader 
  are encamped here. All have bronze daggers, iron nail 
  studded cudgels and the leader has a short bow and 15 
  arrows. They know about the Wraithe in room 26 and are 
  deathly afraid of going in there. Their names are: Braggi, 
  Lok, Verl, Sned, and Suggs. See the Monster List for 
  further stats. 
   
  Room #28 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was another kitchen, in better shape than the one 
  below, however it is still a mess. 
   
  Guardians 
  No guards here. 
   
  Room #29 
  Description & Treasure 
  This was a “meeting room” and has a 20’x5’ beautifully 
  carved and polished oak table in the center with a dozen 
  
  matching chairs. There are 3 large, 13 candled, candle 
  holders on the table of solid silver and worth 20 G.S. 
  each. 
   
  Guardians 
  No guards here. 
   
  FIFTH (TOP) FLOOR 
   
   
   
   
  Room #30 
   
   
  Description & Treasure 
  This room is where an ancient MEDUSA sleeps and lives. 
  It is full of well-kept and beautiful furniture, bed, etc. all 
  of the most expensive furs, silks and satins. The furs alone 
  are worth 800 G.S.. On her dresser (there’s no mirror) is a 
  beautifully wrought silver box (worth is G.S.) Inside it are 
  31 assorted gems valued at 1,850 G.S.. Hidden in a secret 
  compartment in the dresser’s bottom drawer is a black 
  jade ring carved with mystik runes. The wearer of this 
  ring can never be paralyzed, mesmerized or turned to 
  stone. It is called “Night Finger” and once belonged to the 
  evil mage of the tower from whom the Medusa stole it. 
  She has hidden away all of the scrolls of the long dead 
  mage inside her feather mattress. Note: The GM should 
  make each of the 7 scrolls have but a single 3rd or 4th 
  order spell on it, each scroll usable twice. Finally, she has 
  hidden the “Great Book of Spells” of the ancient mage 
  under the rug on the floor in a hidden floor compartment. 
  The silver key to its lock is in the pocket of her robe. 
   
  Guardians 
  The 4,000 year old Medusa “Euryale”, an old “friend” 
  and ally of the dread mage of legend. This foul female 
  delights in the new creatures that have come to live in the 
  tower, fearing none of them, and in fact leaving most of 
  them alone so they can act as “watch dogs.” She sits in 
  royal comfort and dreams of past glory, content to “sit for 
  a century or two and watch the world go by.” 
   
   
   
   
  She wears blood red velvet robes and has a jeweled ring 
  on each finger (8 in all) worth a total of 1,310 G.S. An 
  amethyst and gold necklace worth 1,025 G.S. is around 
  her neck. Although not a mage she has learned to use the 
  spell “Mind Seek”.  She can do so three times each day. 
  She eats the hearts of men. The Gargoyle sometimes visits 
  her and if it was not in its normal room below, then it is 
  here. They are old “friends.” She has the stoned body of 
  an Elf adventurer in the room that she uses as a clothes 
  rack. 
   
  Room #31 
   
  Description & Treasure 
  This was a guard room for about a half dozen zombies, 
  however when their master died, they simply lay down 
  and decomposed. All that’s left is their skeletons, tattered 
  chain mail and rusted weaponry. Each has a 50 G.S. black 
  opal in its mouth. 
   
  Guardians 
  The Medusa has locked a Black Lion in here to watch the 
  door to the stairs. The Lion (see its ‘stats” in the monster 
  list) is fed, but only infrequently so it is always hungry 
  and irritated. 
   
  Room #32 
   
  Description & Treasure 
  This was the mages own living quarters and is very 
  luxuriously decorated. It has, however, been ransacked 
  and stripped of a lot of its furnishings to outfit the 
  Medusa’s room. There are no treasures here but much of 
  interest and curiosity. (The GM can put treasure here if 
  desired). The ceiling, walls and floor are covered in Black 
  Silk Hangings. 
   
  Guardians 
  A huge Vampire bat nests here and enters and leaves 
  through a secret ceiling hatch it has learned to manipulate 
  with its claws. It is hidden in the folds of the ceiling 
  hangings and will swoop to attack all who enter the room. 
  It is gone during the hours of darkness, returning at dawn. 
   
  Room #33 
   
  Description & Treasure 
  This was the mages laboratory and work shop and there 
  are tables covered with his gear everywhere. Amongst the 
  vials, bottles, flasks and other containers, are the 
  following potions:  a one hour “invisibility” potion, two 
  doses; one day “total protection from all fire” one dose; 
  one dose of  “Breathing Under Water” for two hours: 
  three doses of  ”Elven Night Vision” for one day; a single 
  dose of a potion that will permanently add 3 to the 
  drinker’s INT. The GM can ad lib any other treasurer if he 
  desires. Suggested items would be a staff and/or rod or 
  wand, and perhaps an overlooked scroll. 
   
   
   
   
   
  
   
   
   
   
  ?
  ?
  ?
  
  Guardians 
  The “guardian” of this room is a magikal trap. Three 
  minutes after the room is entered a 100- point lightning 
  strike will randomly hit one of the intruders. One melee 
  round later one of the monsters/guardians in the tower is 
  instantaneously transported into the room. This will 
  happen 3 consecutive times or until no monsters are left in 
  the tower. It will not transport creatures from the cavern. 
  Also the GM can set up other magikal “booby traps” if he 
  feels they are necessary. 
   
  THE CAVERNS 
  Room #34 
  Description & Treasure 
  This large open area has a kind of sandy floor with about 
  a dozen shallow pools’ of water (the largest being 30’x18’ 
  and 4’ deep and roughly dead center in the area). 
   
  Guardians 
  Three 3rd level swamp Saurigs are laying submerged in 
  the large pool. They are unarmored but have tridents and 
  10’ square weighted nets. Only their nostrils show above 
  the surface and they look like rocks. See Monster List for 
  stats. 
   
  Room #35 
  Description & Treasure 
  There are several floor to ceiling “pillars” where 
  stalactites and stalagmites have  grown “together” 
  forming a kind of stone forest. No water is pooled here, 
  but the ceiling still drips a little and water trickles down 
  the pillars. 
  Guardians 
  There are a dozen Goblins camped here. Six 1st levels in 
  banded leather armor with bucklers, daggers and small 
  battle axes. Five are 2nd level, wearing chain mail, have 
  round shields and carry 6’ spears and short swords. The 
  leader is 3rd level, in half-plate armor and uses a 2 handed 
  sword. Between them the 11 underlings have 48 S.P. and 
  42 C.P. The leader has a pouch with 15 G.S. in it. See 
  Monster List for further stats. 
   
  Room #44* 
  Description & Treasure 
  The area is dry but very rocky. All of the hanging 
  stalactites have been snapped off and lay shattered on the 
  ground. There is a tunnel on the west wall that leads out 
  of the cavern some mile from the tower. This is the 
  dragon’s entrance and exit. It is 30’ wide by 20’ tall. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Guardians 
  A young Red Dragon lairs here. His name is “Sleerath” 
  and he is 45 HP and has stats as listed in the monster list. 
  When he is laying down, head and tail curled in, with 
  wings furled he can be mistaken for a large rock 95% of 
  the time. His treasure is buried in the ground under where 
  he lays. It consists of 600 G.S. 1600 S.P. and the 
  enchanted spear “Orc Slayer.” It has “adds” for its attack 
  and damage being plus three to strike and doing 4 points 
  extra damage each time. Also, any Orc or Uruk Hai it hits 
  must save versus spoken spells or die! The spear is buried 
  under the coins, but is wrapped in an old red wool blanket 
   
  Room ‘45 
  Description & Treasure 
  The area is littered with the shreds and tatters (and 
  splintered bones) of its numerous past victims. The room 
  was apparently an old secret storehouse that was never 
  used much. However in the north east comer is a 5’ iron 
  cube like chest with a double key lock.  Inside is a 
  complete suit of enchanted chain mail of a size to fit most 
  Elves (or slender humans). This mail adds four  (+4) to 
  the wearer’s armor class. 
   
  Guardians 
  A Giant Scorpion lairs here that has learned how to open 
  and close the secret door. (See the ‘stats” in the monster 
  list). It can feel the vibrations in the ground as people pass 
  within 10’ of the door. When it does, it opens the door 
  and rushes out in a surprise attack 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  *The areas 36 through 43 are 
  not keyed to allow the GM a chance to practice 
  doing this himself. We do suggest that only half 
  of those eight areas be keyed by the GM (the 
  other half simply being described) so that there 
  won’t be a “monster behind every rock” 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  XI 
  A GLOSSARY OF TERMS 
  FOR THE BASIC ADVENTURER
   
   
  WEAPONS 
   
  BASTARD SWORD (Hand and 
  a Half Sword): This weapon is 
  only a bit larger than the standard 
  broadsword, but has a hilt/handle 
  that is nearly long enough for a 
  two-handed grip (for use in guiding 
  the weapon blows). 
   
  BATTLE 
  AXE: 
  Any 
  large 
  cutting/impact 
  weapon 
  with  
  “chopping edges.” They come in 
  varied and different types: 
   
   
     Double Bladed Broad Axe: 
  A medium hafted weapon with two 
  opposing crescent edged blades, 
  that sometimes has a small upright 
  spike between them. 
    Single Bladed Great Axe: A 
  longer, sometimes metal reinforced 
  haft, with a single large, but less 
  curved blade than above.  It 
  frequently has both an upright 
  spike and one horizontally opposite 
  the blade. 
    Taper Axe: This weapon has a 
  long haft, and a much smaller, (but 
  highly curved) cutting edge than 
  those above. It almost never has 
  any counter weighting spikes or 
  knob. 
   
   
  BROADSWORD:  The 
  “standard” weapon of most 
  warriors. It denotes any straight, 
  medium width, bladed weapon 
  with a double edge. There are too 
  many varieties to list here, but 
  most people have seen at least 
  two or three versions in the 
  television and movie portrayals of 
  such things as “King Arthur” and 
  the like. 
   
  COMMON SLING: A strip of 
  leather (usually) with a thumb loop 
  on one end and a “pocket” near the 
  center. Lead shot (or a stone) is put 
  in the pocket and the whole weapon 
  whirled around the users head.  The 
  arm is suddenly pointed towards 
  the target and the unlooped end of 
  the sling is released, snapping the 
  missile 
  out 
  with 
  considerable 
  velocity.  Historians state that good 
  slingers usually outranged short 
  bows. 
  COMPOSITE BOW: About the 
  same size as the short bow, but is 
  built of dozens of layers of horn, 
  wood and other springy materials, 
  all glued and pressure molded 
  together.  Much more powerful 
  than the short bow and capable of 
  ranging out to 300 Yards or more.  
  About 3 ½ feet tall. 
   
    
  CROSS BOW: This is usually a 
  metal bow mounted horizontally on 
  a wooden gun stock-like affair that 
  shoots a short “rocket shaped” 
  missile called a “bolt” or “quarrel.” 
  It comes in two basic types: 
   
    Light Crossbow: This weapon 
  has a loop or stirrup-like affair in 
  its nose, so that the weapon can be 
  held pointing downward with the 
  users foot placed in said loop, and 
  then the weapon is re-cocked by 
  hand, or with a small lever called, 
  strangely enough, a “Goats Foot.” 
    Heavy Crossbow: It is simply 
  a larger and heavier version of the 
  bow described above. The main 
  difference being that the weapon 
  requires strength much greater than 
  the average man to re-cock, so the 
  user inserts his foot as above, then 
  attaches a crank and lever-like 
  affair called a Cranequin, which is 
  used to crank the weapon back.  It 
  can be seen from the description 
  that these types of weapons have 
  only about a third of the rate of fire 
  as do their “lighter” cousins. 
  However their punch is so great 
  that at close range a bolt from one 
  of these can pass right through a 
  large shield and completely through 
  the full plate armored Knight 
  behind the shield!  In either case, 
  light or heavy, most crossbows 
  outranged all other “bow-type” 
  weapons with the exception of the 
  “long bow.” 
   
   
  
  CUDGEL/BLUDGEON: A large, 
  heavy piece of wood that is frequently 
  studded with metal spikes or banded 
  with metal as reinforcing (to prevent 
  splintering). 
   
   
  DAGGER: This designation 
  encompasses many varied and 
  different types of the same general 
  kind of weapon. For game purposes 
  consider it any longbladed (5” to 
  14” long) and pointed knife-life 
  weapon. The blades were usually 
  tapered to a point much smaller 
  than their base, to facilitate their 
  penetrating the chinks in an 
  opponent’s armor. 
   
   
  FLAIL:  This weapon is derived 
  from the farmer’s “thresher” and is 
  a short to medium shafted weapon 
  with a single large metal bar (which 
  can be spiked) attached by a very 
  short metal chain. The “Great Flail” 
  is a much larger two-handed 
  version. 
   
   
  HALBERD:  A 6’ to  10’ (some 
  can be longer) pole with an axe-like 
  cutting edge on one side, a short 
  spike on the opposite side (both 
  horizontal/perpendicular to the 
  pole) with a much longer vertical 
  spike in between. 
   
   
  JAVELIN (Heavy or Light): A 
  balanced, pointed spear-like 
  weapon designed for throwing. 
   
  LONG BOW:   The largest of the 
  self bows, standing 5’ to 7’ tall, 
  built usually of one single piece of 
  yew wood. Utilizing an arrow 
  sometimes nearly twice the length 
  of other bows, it can range out to 
  more than 400 yards. History states 
  that long bows could go through 
  both sides of a knight and nail him 
  to his horse! 
   
  LONG SPEAR: A 7’ to 10’ 
  version of the short spear (not 
  throwable). 
   
   
  MACE: This is a medium hafted 
  weapon with either a stone or metal 
  “head” (most of which are either 
  spiked, knobbed or flanged), of a 
  generally rounded shape. 
   
  MAUL:  This is simply a larger, 
  two-handed version of the mace 
   
  MORNING STAR: A short 
  hafted weapon with a metal chain 
  (longer by half than the haft) with 
  either a single large spiked ball or 
  two or three much smaller ones 
  (two or three lighter chains in this 
  case) on the end. 
   
  PIKE: An even larger version of 
  the Standard Spear, usually about 
  12’ long but can range up to 18’ or 
  even 22’ in length! 
   
  QUARTER  STAFF: A long (6’ 
  to 7’) stout wooden pole, 
  sometimes metal capped at the 
  ends.  Used to fight with, as a 
  walking stick, or even a probe pole. 
   
   
  RAPIER: 
  A long, stiffly 
  flexible, thin bladed sword 
  designed primarily for thrusting. 
  Usually with an elaborate “full 
  cup” handguard. 
   
   
  SCIMITAR: A long, single 
  edged, curved sword used mostly 
  for slashing. A saber is similar but 
  is ‘heavier and has a less curved 
  blade. Both can have plain or 
  elaborate hand guards. 
   
  SHORT BOW:   The smallest of 
  the “self operated” bows. It has a 
  range of about two hundred yards. 
  Build of one solid piece of wood. 
  30” tall. 
   
  NOTE: All bow ranges are 
  maximums, effective ranges being 
  about half that 
   
  SHORT (or Standard) SPEAR: 
  A 5’ to 6’ wooden pole with a 
  metal stabbing point/blade at the 
  end. May be thrown but with less 
  range and effect than a Javelin. 
   
   
   
  
   
  SHORT SWORD: This denotes 
  any weapon shorter than a standard 
  broadsword yet longer than a 
  knife/dagger. It is of normal, double 
  edged sword blade width and has a 
  full sized handle or haft.  The 
  Roman “Gladius” is a classic 
  example of this kind of weapon. 
   
  THROWING KNIFE: This is 
  usually an all metal weapon with a 
  leaf-shaped bla4e that is 
  considerably larger than the small 
  handle or haft (which may or may 
  not be wrapped in thin leather or 
  cloth). Blade length seldom 
  exceeds 5!’ to 8”. 
   
   
  TWO HANDED BATTLE 
  AXE: 
  Simply a much larger version of the 
  Bade Axes previously described, meant 
  to be wielded with two hands. Some 
  of these weapons are as tall as the 
  person that uses it All are very 
  heavy. 
   
    
  TWO HANDED SWORD: This 
  is the classic “Great Sword” 
  wielded with both hands. In general 
  shape it resembles the standard 
  broadsword but can be as long as 6’ 
  from point to pommel (most were 
  about 4½’ to 5’ long in total). It is 
  hard to work with in close quarters 
  but ifs impact and devastating 
  effect on those it hits is virtually 
  unsurpassed. 
  WAR HAMMER: This medium 
  hafted weapon has a stone or metal 
  “head” that can be clawed, rounded, 
  square or whatever, and usually with a 
  small spike to the opposite end. There 
  are also large, two-handed versions. 
   
  ARMOR 
  ARMING DOUBLET (Padded 
  or Quilted Cloth Armor): A 
  complete body covering when used 
  as armor, but usually a sleeveless, 
  waist-length garment worn under 
  heavier armor as padding (as an 
  Arming Doublet). Sometimes of 
  silk; but most often it is raw cotton 
  sewn into cotton cloth stitched 
  double thick. It can also refer to 
  thick, single layer canvas armor). 
   
  CHAIN MAIL: Complex, joined 
  rings and/or metal chains in a full 
  body covering. An arming doublet 
  is usually worn underneath as 
  padding, and an attached mail coif 
  is worn under whatever cap or 
  helmet is worn. The most mobile of 
  the “heavy” armors.  
   
   
   
  FULL HELM: Complete head, 
  neck and face protection. Usually 
  of iron or steel, some also have 
  plumes, crests or other breakaway 
  ornaments. The face covering is 
  sometimes hinged or bifurcated so 
  as to swing out of the way. A 
  standard iron cap is usually worn 
  underneath and supports a leather 
  or rope “coif’ that supports the 
  helm. 
   
  FULL PLATE ARMOR: The 
  “classical” knight’s armor, mostly 
  solid metal pieces, unarticulated 
  except at the joints. Full helm, 
  arming doublet (and sometimes a 
  light chain mail shirt) is worn 
  underneath.  Hot, and not very 
  mobile, but darn good protection. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
  GAUNTLET: Heavy leather gloves 
  with reinforced backs (either by adding 
  metal studs, chain links, scales or 
  articulate metal straps). Usually comes 
  as part of a set of complete armor. 
   
   
  HALF PLATE ARMOR: Like 
  it says, about half the armor (breast, 
  back plates, gorget, greaves, full 
  helm, etc.) is of metal plate. The 
  rest is chain mail. 
   
   
  
  IRON CAP: A simple iron (or 
  other metal) cap that protects only 
  the crown and back of the wearer’s 
  head. It can have a nose guard but 
  usually doesn’t. It has a padded 
  lining. 
   
   
   
   
  LEATHER ARMOR: A 
  complete body covering (resembles 
  an overcoat with no belt or front 
  buttons) of either double/triple 
  layered “soft” leather or thick, 
  single “hardened” (boiled) leather. 
   
   
   
  SCALE ARMOR: Bone, horn or 
  metal scales, overlapping on a 
  complete body covering of cloth. 
  light leather, or canvas. 
  SMALL SHIELD (Buckler or 
  Targ): A small (usually 12” in 
  diameter or so) slightly conical 
  shield. Usually held in a one 
  handed, centered grip, at arm’s 
  length to deflect rather than block 
  incoming blows. 
   
   
  STANDARD HELMET: A 
  metal helmet, open faced, that 
  protects the crown, back of head, 
  back of neck, has a nose guard and 
  sometimes has cheek protection. It 
  has a padded lining. 
   
   
  STANDARD SHIELD (Heater 
  orRotund):  The classic shield of 
  the “King Ar’thur” movies. Usually 
  carried by mid arm and hand straps. 
  STUDDED (Banded/Brigantine) 
  ARMOR: Leather armor as 
  previously explained, reinforced by 
  metal scales, studs, bands/splints or 
  rings. Either sewn directly onto or 
  in between two layers. 
   
   
  TOWER (Kite or Wall) 
  SHIELD:  A large shield of 
  varied shape (from Roman half 
  cylinders to Norman triangles) that 
  usually cover the carrier from just 
  below the chin to somewhere down 
  around the mid-calf.  Fairly Heavy. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
   
  ABBREVIATIONS 
   
  Full Name 
  Page 
  AC         
   Armor Class 
  12 
  AF         
   Attack Factor 
  20 
  AGIL        
   Agility 
  12 
  CF         
   Coordination Factor 
  61 
  CHAR 
   Charisma 
  12 
  CON 
   Constitution 
  12 
  CP         
   Copper Penny 
  16 
  D10        
   10 sided die (1-0) 
  11 
  D20        
   20 sided die(1-20) 
  11 
  DEX        
   Dexterity 
  12 
  DF         
   Defense Factor 
  20 
  EL          
   Experience Level 
  12 
  FRP        
   Fantasy Role Playing 
  4 
  GM         
   Game Master 
  6 
  GP         
   Gold Piece 
  16 
  GS         
   Gold Sovereign 
  16 
  HP         
   Hit Points 
  12 
  INT         
   intelligence 
  12 
  MS         
   Copper Minums 
  16 
  RS         
   Royal Sovereign 
  16 
  SP 
   Silver Piece 
  16 
  SR         
   Saving Roil 
  26 
  STR 
   Strength 
  12 
  WIS 
   Wisdom 
  12 
   
   
  
   
  
  CHARACTER 
   SHEET  
  ANALYSIS 
   
   
  Using the filled out character sheet as an 
  example, some basic facts become 
  readily apparent:
   
  1 -  Jothar’s Armor Class (AC) is effected by the Arming Doublet he wears (the doublet being the rough 
  equivalent of “Quilted Cloth Armor”). It raises his AC to 8, but subtracts (1) from both his natural 
  dexterity and agility. Hence his defense factor is “8+3”. (Note: without the doublet, Jothar would have a 
  DF of 9+5). If the optional Coordination Factor is being used, Jothar’s CF would be 13.5(14.5 without 
  the doublet). A DF of “8+3” means that when Jothar is attacked, you look up the attacking weapons 
  ability to hit AC 8, then add 3 to that number (i.e. a mace would need 4+3=7 to hit. 
   
  2 - Jothar has no formal religious training, hence no religion (yet). Being raised by elves, he would 
  probably have acquired their natural “reverence” for growing things and life in general. 
   
  3 - His wealth reflects expenditures for the equipment, clothing and other gear he owns. What little he 
  has left is just enough for 8 days/nights at a not very expensive inn (with one meal daily). Jothar had 
  better find employment soon. 
   
  4 - The area for “Experience” is left blank because he has yet to undertake his first adventure and not 
  earned any. 
   
  5 - As you can see from his Character Sheet, Jothar is an orphan, athletic, an excellent archer (+2 to his 
  AF), likes honey bear venison, can’t swim worth a darn and knows a lot about elves and elven ways (a 
  rare thing for humans).  Quite a lot of information to start with, but still only an outline. As he gains 
  experience, Jothar’s character will “flesh out”. You will add to his likes, dislikes, friends (and enemies), 
  knowledge and training. Jothar will rapidly develop his own unique “personality”, which is the key 
  element in “role playing”.  Remember! You are the character, so role-play your way to adventure! 
   
  6 - Note that many of the boxes on the Character Sheet are only temporary, so use pencil to fill them out  
  AC, Adjusted Dex, DF, CF, Wealth and possessions are all subject to change during a series of 
  adventures. Items such as appearance, favorite things, friends, status, religion, etc are semi-permanent.  
  They can be changed, but only rarely.  Others like history, special abilities, training, and character  
  “stats” (Str, Int, etc.) are permanent, though some can be added to. 
   
  
  XIII 
  Additional Overland/Special Encounter Monsters 
  These monsters are given to help you expand your game play and to show you some of the wide 
  diversity available to the GM. Each has been chosen especially to “trigger” your imagination into certain 
  areas, so that you can then “build” your own creatures. It’s not hard, so read on, then create away!
   
  FAERIES 
  Mother of the old myths that have gotten confused and 
  twisted in their ages of re4eiling. Faeries are not elves, 
  nor are they related to them. They are very small, but very 
  magikal beings, some 12” to 18” tall. They do resemble 
  tiny elves, but also have what appear to be a pair of 
  diaphanous rainbow hued wings (like a dragonfly’s). For 
  game purposes, consider them 15 HP, with an average 
  DEX and AGIL of 18 each. Their natural AC of5 is due to 
  their magikal nature. while in flight, they get a +4 bonus 
  to their DF. Consider every Faerie as a 4th EL mage. In 
  every group of five Faeries will be one 8th EL mage. 
  These secretive, but mischievous beings can live as long 
  as 1,000 years, but 600 is a general average. They greatly 
  dislike humans and any others not of their kind. The sole 
  exception being Hobbitts, for whom they hold a special 
  affection. They excel in vexing and pestering dogs and 
  cats (the latter of which has been known to hunt them). 
  They generally make life miserable for any trespassers in 
  their forest domain, playing magikal and other tricks until 
  the invaders flee in disgust 
  GIANTS 
  These creatures are probably the most common of all 
  mythological monsters, yet the least understood. They are 
  not simply oversized humans, but are an entirely different 
  race descended from the Gods and Demi-gods of Old. For 
  game purposes, the GM should vary them in size from a 
  little larger and stronger than Ogres to about twice Ogre 
  size/power. Most giants are no more vicious or war-like 
  than humans. However, due to their “fearsome aspect”, 
  they have been feared and attacked so often that they 
  generally avoid contact with humans if possible. Their 
  power and size alone would make them terrible 
  opponents, but they are also very agile (DEX and AGIL 
  ranging from 14 to 18 each), and oft times wear armor. 
  They have a “natural” AC of 5. They come in four bask 
  types: MOUNTAIN or KRAG GIANTS; FOREST 
  GIANTS; DESERT or DUNE GIANTS and SEA 
  GIANTS. 
  HYDRA 
  This serpentine, multi-headed horror is a classic monster 
  from the pages of mythology. Usually under the control of 
  some great Mage, they are varying shades of green, with 
  yellow-gold underbellies and ruby red eyes. They can 
  have from three to thirteen heads and are 10 HP in size 
  per head (plus an additional 5 HP each three heads). They 
  are 15’ long for every 4 heads (thus a 9 headed Hydra is 
  45’ long and IOSHP). Each head can bite for DIO points 
  and all heads attack each turn until slain. Hydras have a 
  natural AC of S and are even rarer than dragons. Those 
  with more than 7 heads are practically never seen. They 
  have a DEX and AGIL of 14 each, and are abysmally 
  stupid. 
  MINOTAUR 
  A hulking terror from the dim legends of the past, this 
  ferocious bull-headed giant is the epitome of blind, 
  destroying fury. Standing nearly 9’ tall and with the 
  strength of 6 men, this creature is definitely one to avoid. 
  It has a natural AC of 6, and fights one of three ways: a 
  bellowing, head down charge with its two goring horns (8 
  points damage each), a stomping kick (for 10 points) or a 
  swing with its 8’ tall double bladed, two-handed axe 
  (doing normal axe damage plus 10 points for his giant 
  strength). Re-member: these creatures attack all they meet 
  and eat all they slay! Their DEX and AGIL averages 12 
  each and they are normally 60 HP in size. Though very 
  stupid and cumbersome looking, they are actually cunning 
  and very agile. 
  TITANS 
  Although appearing like the more normal” Giant kind, 
  these beings are actually the racial type that bridges the 
  gap between Giant and Gods. They are sometimes 
  erroneously referred to as “STORM GIANTS”, but are a 
  separate and distinct race. Varying in size from that of the 
  largest giants to even 50% greater in size/power, these 
  wise. but cruel blue-skinned beings are seldom seen by 
  men. They live only in the far polar reaches or atop the 
  highest mountains. There they experiment with their 
  arcane knowledge and dream of the future when they will 
  one day war against the Gods to win their rightful place 
  among them. They have a natural AC of4 and have 
  DEX’s and AGILs averaging 15 each. ALL are 5th EL 
  Mages or higher. 
  SLIMES, OOZES AND OTHER 
  YUCKY THINGS 
  This class of creature is typified by the old movie “The 
  Blob” and covers everything from giant amoebas to super 
  viruses. All are shapeless. flowing. enveloping horrors 
  that dissolve or absorb their victims (sometimes after 
  paralyzing them). Most are impervious to chops, cuts, 
  bashes and other impacts (like mud puddles are to rocks) 
  and are relatively slow moving. The GM can run the full 
  gamut from fireproof ones to others made of liquid metal 
  (mercury) and give them whatever horrendous attributes 
  desired. Remember though, they are not common and 
  usually only found in some dark subterranean cavern or in 
  some dead mage’s tomb. Used sparingly. they will add a 
  creepy and scary aspect to your game (many times the 
  only sure defense against these monsters is to run). 
   
  
   
  MAGIKAL ARTIFACTS AND TREASURES 
  These magikal items have been included for the same reason as the monsters; to inspire you to invent 
  your own. The more 4 yourself you put into the game, the more enjoyable it will become. After all, this 
  game is one of imagination and fantasy. We only provide the framework on which to build.
   
  BONE BRACERS 
  These plain iron or bronze wrist bands/guards are fairly 
  rare, but widely known (in local legends). They imbue the 
  wearer with double, triple or even quadruple strength and 
  power (but do not alter the physical appearance). This 
  power is not usually operating at all times, but may be 
  “called forth” for short periods of time (usually no more 
  than one hour per day). GM’s should note that human 
  flesh is still human flesh. Even though much 
  stronger,~,5uch a person should not go around punching 
  out people in plate armor or attempting to kick holes in 
  stone walls. All that will do is smash the wearer’s bones 
   
  CLOAK OF INVISIBILITY 
  This extremely rare item is almost always “shadow” 
  colored (dark gray to black). It is high collared and very 
  long (ankle length). The wearer may wrap himself in it, 
  whisper the mystik “word of power” and fade from sight 
  of mortal men. Some monsters, such as LINDEAD, 
  dragons and other highly magikal creatures still see the 
  wearer (35% chance). If used overmuch (say more than 
  one hour monthly), the wearer can “fade out”, and remain 
  forever trapped in some dimensionless limbo. Careful GM 
  adjudication is needed for this aspect of the cloak While 
  using the cloak, the wearer must move carefully and 
  stealthily to avoid uncovering some part of his body or 
  making some telltale noise. 
   
  FLYING CARPET 
  This magikal item is one we’ve all heard of, but for game 
  purposes, here is what it is like: 5’ to 7’ long and 3’ to 4’ 
  wide. It is usually woven with bird, pegasus or other 
  “winged” patterns and comes in “sky colors” of blue, gray 
  and/or white. It can support from one to four people (?00 
  to 800 pounds) and can fly at “eagle speed” (20 to 50 mph 
  depending on how loaded down it is). These rare objects 
  usually require the owner to know the mystikal 
  “commands of control” in order to use it. 
   
  RING OF ADAMANT 
  This gold rune artifact is capped by a large, glowing ruby 
  and is an old elven legend. All who wear it will have 
  three very special powers: “To never fear man nor beast, 
  Demon,  nor even God”; “To withstand all flame and fire 
  as if they were but a gentle caress”; “To battle as fiercely 
  as twice his wont’. Simply put, the wearer is totally 
  fireproof cannot be frightened and fights at double his 
  current EL. Only one such ring is known to have ever 
  existed. The GM needs to severely limit such high 
  powered artifacts in his world. 
   
   
  SEVEN LEAGUE BOOTS 
  These sturdy yellow leather boots are an item occa-
  sionally made by Great Mages as a gift to some worthy 
  hero. These rare items allow the wearer to do one of 
  several things based on the “Power of the Seven Leagues” 
  instilled within them. A “League” is three miles, so seven 
  leagues is 21 miles (remember that fact). In any increment 
  each day, the wearer may safely leap a part (or all) of 
  those seven leagues! Thus a hero could leap a mile, three 
  or even twenty-one without breaking himself into small 
  bits! That is not to say that if he leaps over a mountain 
  into an unseen forest, he won’t kill himself smashing into 
  trees (he would). Also, the wearer jumps one half as high 
  as he does fan A jump of twenty miles means he reaches 
  an altitude of 53,000 feet, will probably lose 
  consciousness (no air), lose balance and kill himself on 
  landing. If used wisely, the wearer can travel great 
  distances amazingly fast. GM adjudication is definitely 
  required here, as is common sense from the players. 
   
   
  MAGIKAL POCKETS 
  These magik items are one of the most truly amazing ever 
  conceived. Although not extremely rare, they are 
  nonetheless, seldom seen. Their owners keep them very 
  secret, lest they be stolen. What they are is nothing more 
  than a magikally created “dimensional anomaly” hidden 
  within some everyday item (like a coat pocket, jewelry 
  box or small bag). Simply put, they are bigger inside than 
  outside. This means a pocket could appear normal on the 
  outside, but could be 12’ deep and 9’ wide on the inside. 
  Re-member: although there is no weight felt by the 
  wearer (regardless how much is put inside), nothing can 
  be put into the magik pocket larger than the opening. 
  Once it is filled up, if the wearer attempts to “overstuff’ it, 
  it could cause the pocket to burst (at the GM’s discretion). 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
   
   
  OPTIONAL ADVANCED RULES 
  This rule although a bit more complicated than the basic ones outlined in the combat sections is in fact 
  the most accurate way of depicting the fast moving combination of all of the factors that comprise 
  battle. Here is how it works: 
   
  Each and every character must determine what their Coordination Factor is by averaging their agility 
  and their dexterity. For example if a character has an AGIL of 10 and a DEX of 12 their Coordination 
  Factor (CF) would be 11(10+ ~ 2=22, 22+2=11). Another example would be a character having a DEX 
  of 13 and an AGIL of 14. This character would end up with a CF of 13.5 (13+14=27, 27+2=13.5). You 
  will note that there is a decimal involved here That Is perfectly All Right To Have. 
   
  During combat and movement (items which are now COMBINED into one single phase) each character will be able to do 
  a number of actions according to what their CF total is. To determine just how many actions the character can perform 
  consult the small chart below:
  CF 
  NUMBER OF ACTIONS ALLOWED 
   
   
  1 to 4 
  one every other melee round 
   
   
  5 to 8 
   
   
  one each melee round 
                             
   
  9 to 12 
   
   
  two each melee round 
   
  13 to 16 
   
   
  three each melee round 
   
  17 to 20 
   
   
  four each melee round 
           
  21 or more 
    
   
  five each melee round
   
   
  Thus you can see that a character with a CF of 15 would 
  be able to perform three actions each and every melee 
  round. These actions can be either combat or movement 
  or any other action that the character desires to do.  
  Here is how the whole thing works together:
   
  Determine your CF, then determine your number of  
  actions; then divide your CF by the number of actions you  
  can do each melee round. The resultant number will show  
  you your CF COUNTDOWN. For example, my  
  character’s CF is 15, so I divide that by three, which gives  
  me the number five (15+3=5)1 now know that every five  
  counts of the melee/movement round my character can  
  perform an action. Thus at 15,10, and 5.  I will be able to  
  act just like in the original rules, to determine who can do  
  what and when, I simply compare my CF COUNTDOWN  
  with that of the other characters and monsters involved in  
  the melee/movement. For ease of game play, a CF  
  COUNTDOWN list of all the characters, from fastest to  
  slowest, should be compiled for each game so that there is  
  never any question as to who is next in turn. 
   
  Finally, it should be noted that it is never possible (no 
  matter how high your agility and dexterity) to have a CF 
  greater than 30. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
   
  WHAT CONSTITUTES ACTION 
  Any single “act” such as striking with a weapon, reading 
  a scroll, moving, or even turning around is considered one 
  action. Thus, my character with a CF of 15 could move 
  one third of his movement at 15, strike the opponent he 
  moved next to at 10, and then continue on past that 
  opponent for another third of his movement at 5. Or an 
  archer could stand in one spot the entire time and fire 
  three arrows at targets in front of him (one at each of 
  15,10 and 5). Wait a minute, you say, isn’t drawing an 
  arrow, nocking it, aiming it and then firing it more than 
  one action?  The answer is NO if the character is a trained 
  archer and YES if the character is not a trained archer. By 
  the same token a trained warrior could draw his sword 
  from his scabbard and strike it all in one count whereas an 
  untrained character would need two counts to do so (one 
  to draw the weapon, the second to strike). 
   
   
  As you can see, the GM as well as the players will have to 
  exercise a little common sense here. 
  CF EFFECTS ON MELEE MOVEMENT 
   
  To determine how far a character can move each 
  segment of their CF COUNTDOWN simply divide the 
  total movement allowance by the number of actions 
  they can perform each CF COUNTDOWN. The 
  resultant number being the allowable distance he can 
  move each time. For example, let’s assume that the 
  character mentioned before with the CF of 15 also has a 
  movement capability of 150’ per melee turn (as 
  explained in the “Movement Section”). With three 
  actions possible each turn (as we have seen before with 
  a CF of 15), we simply divide the total movement 
  allowed by that three, coming up with 50’ of movement 
  per each action being possible (150+3=50). Remember, 
  though, that if a character elects to do something other 
  than move during a CF segment, then that portion of 
  movement is irrevocably lost for that melee round. This 
  is because the character elected to do something for that 
  segment which took as much time as the movement 
  would have. 
  There you have the whole system for a REALISTIC 
  combined melee and movement system -a system which 
  shows the complex and intertwined nature of combat 
  movement. We highly recommend that you eventually use 
  this system as your playing ability and confidence 
  increases. 
  
  xv 
  BIBLIOGRAPHY
  Alien Landscapes by Robert Holdstock and Malcom 
  Edwards, Mayflower Books (1978) 
   
  Authentic Thaumaturgy by P. E. I. Bonewitz,  Chaosium 
  Publishing (1979) 
   
  Beauty and the Beast by Chris Achilleos,  Fireside 
  Books/Simon and Schuster (1978) 
   
  An Atlas of Fantasy by J. B. Post, Ballantine Books 1979) 
   
  The Complete Guide to Middle Earth by Robert Foster, 
  Ballantine Books (1975) 
   
  The Complete Illustrated Book of the Psychic Sciences by 
  Walter B. and Litzka Gibson, Double-day (1966) 
   
  An Encyclopedia of Fairies, Hobgoblins, Brownies, 
  Bogies and Other Supernatural Creatures by Katharine 
  Briggs, Pantheon Books (1976) 
   
  The Encyclopedia of Magik & Superstition, Octopus 
  (1974) 
   
  The Encyclopedia of Witchcraft and Demonology, by 
  Rossell Hope Robbins, Crown Publisher’s (1959) 
   
  Faeries by Brian Froud and Alan Lee, Harry N. Abrams, 
  Inc (1978) 
   
  The Fantasy Almanac by Jeff Rovin,  F. P. Dutton Co. 
  (1979) 
   
  Giants, illustrated by Julek Heller, Carolyn Scrace and 
  Juan Wijngaard, Harry N. Abrams, Inc (1979) 
   
  A Glossary of the Construction, Decoration, and 
  Use o forms and Armor in All Countries and in 
  All Times (And Some Closely Related Subjects), by 
  George Cameron Stone, Southworth Press (1961) 
   
  Japanese Short Stories, by Ryunosuke Akutagawa, 
  translated by Takashi Kojima, Liveright (1961) 
   
  Magik, White and Black, by Franz Hartmann, M.D., 
  University Books (1970) 
   
  Martial Arts, ‘by Michel Random, Octopus Books (1978) 
   
  Medieval Warfare, by Terence Wise, Hastings House 
  Publishers, Inc. (1976) 
   
  Men Of The Earth (An Introduction To World 
  Prehistory), by Brian M. Fagan, Little, Brown And Co. 
  (1974) 
   
  Morning of the Magicians by Louis Pauwels and Jacques 
  Bergier, translated by Rollo Meyers, Stein and Day, 
  Publishers (1969) 
   
  Mysterious Monsters, by Daniel Farson and Angus Hall, 
  Mayflower Books (1 975) 
   
  The New Larousse Encyclopedia of Mythology, The 
  Hamlyn Publishing Group Limited (1959) 
   
  The Phoenicians, by Donald Harden, Frederick A. 
  Praeger, Publisher (1962) 
   
  Secrets of the Samurai, by Oscar Ratti and Adele 
  Westbrook, Charles F. Tuttle and Company (1973) 
   
  Seven Magik Orders, by Shan Mui and Ruth Tabtah, 
  Island Heritage Books (1973) 
   
  Solar Wind,. Illustrated by Peter Jones, Perigee Books 
  (1980) 
   
  The Supernatural, by Douglas Hill and Pat Williams, 
  Hawthorn Book Publishers (1965) 
   
  A Tolkien Bestiary, by David Day, Ballantine Books 
  (1979) 
   
  Tomorrow and Beyond, Edited by Ian Summers, 
  Workman Publishing Co. (1978) 
   
  War Through The Ages, Lynn Montross, Harper & 
  Brothers, 3rd Edition (1960) 
   
  Wonder Works, by Michael Whelan, Starblaze Special 
  Edition (1979) 
   
  Zoo of the Gods, by Anthony S. Mercatante, Harper & 
  Row, Publishers (1974) 
   
  The following publications are for those of you who 
  are really interested in all aspects of Role-Playing. The 
  magazines will give you an expanded insight into what 
  Is happening in the fantasy gaming world and the fan-
  zine will allow you to contact and correspond with 
  garners worldwide. 
   
  Alarums and Excursions; the greatest fanzine of all time (66 
  issues); Lee Gold, 3965 AlIa Rd., Los Angeles, CA 90066 
   
  Different Worlds: Magazine of Adventure/Roleplaying 
  Games; P.O. BOX 6302, Albany, CA 94706 
   
  Sorcerer’s Apprentice; Adventure gaming magazine: P.O. 
  Box 1467, Scottsdale, AZ 85252 
   
  
  Personal thanks are given to the following: 
  Robert Lynn Asprin for his wondrous Thieves World and Tales 
  From The Vulgar Unicorn anthologies. He has to be a gamer. 
   
  Stephen R. Donaldson for his series on Thomas Covenant, the 
  Unbeliever It is a tour de force on Role-Playing if ever there was 
  one. 
  Lastly, in memoriam to Clarke Ashton Smith for his 
  fantastic tales of wonder and glory, but mostly for  
   
   
   
   
   
   
  Zothique, the true progenitor of ARDUIN. Thank you. 
   
  In addition, the following have served as wonderful 
  sources of fun and ideas: 
   
  ELFQUEST Warp Graphics, 2 Rens Rd, Poughkeepsie, 
  NY 12603.   A beautiful combination of art and story.  
   
  The entire works of J.R.R. Tolkien. A must read for every 
  adventure gamer. 
   
  MARVEL COMICS. An unlikely, but valuable source of 
  inspiration. 
   
   
  SYNOPSIS AND CONCLUSION 
  Thus you have everything you need to create and to play your characters in an adventure 
  gaming world or scenario. Remember: 
  1 
  Decide on a race for your character. 
  2 
  Decide on a class for your character. 
  3 
  Decide on an alignment for your character. 
  4 
  Roll up your character’s personal statistics. 
  5 
  Outfit your character according to his finances and preferences. 
  6 
  Have a scenario ready for your play. 
  7 
  Know the rules! 
   
   
  If you do these things, there should be absolutely no problems whatsoever. 
  However, all questions will be answered if sent to: 
   
  GRIMOIRE GAMES 
  P.O. Box 4363 
  Berkeley, CA 94704. 
   
  Include a stamped, self-addressed return envelope to insure a quicker reply. 
   
  Finally, please feel free to expand your game using the rules provided in the ARDUIN TRILOGY, or by 
  any other rules you may desire. Please remember that this game is nothing more than a basic guideline 
  and framework from which to work. Certainly it is complete and playable as it stands, but by the same 
  token it is infinitely able to sustain any modifications you wish to make upon it. It is designed to spark 
  your interest in new worlds and for new adventures, and we hope it has been successful in doing just 
  that. Enjoy! 
   
  David A Hargrave, Concord, California, August 1980 
   
   
  “Adventure Garners...” 
  
  ... the Arduin Adventure  is only an introduction to the fascinating world of adventure gaming. There are 
  several different “systems” for FRP play, of which Arduin is but one, and there are literally hundreds of 
  player game-aids on the market. Should you become intrigued with the world of Arduin, the following is 
  a list of the products currently on the market. The Arduin Grimoires, Vol I-III are the three books that 
  comprise the Arduin Trilogy. The Dungeon Series is a player aid similar to the “Forgotten Tower” in this 
  volume. Each dungeon is pre-set for a certain level of play, and together can handle any level “run’t. 
  The other items are designed to enhance various aspects of the game and increase your enjoyment. 
  Remember: above all else- HAVE FUN!” 
  the Publisher
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
   
  
SOURCE: textdata/thevault/Arduin/The Arduin Adventure.pdf