article: The alcohol is flowing, the skirts short: this is the epitome of Turkey's most liberal, Westernised city - and my first stop as I travel across the country ahead of Turkey's upcoming election. "You have pepper spray, you have tear gasâ€¦but we're still freeâ€¦this country is ours," the fans sing. On the stage at Izmir's seafront is Duman, one of Turkey's best-loved rock bands. As they belt out tunes about the anti-government protests of 2013, the thousands-strong crowd goes wild. "When I was studying in Poland, people there thought Turkey is a heavily Muslim country; that the women are all covered and men have four wives," laughs Serbay Kos, a volleyball trainer. "But Izmir isn't like that - we're like Europe and America." He takes a swig of beer as the song changes. "I'm worried that this government is trying to make Turkey into a more Muslim country, like Iraq or Syria - but we want to be free." It is a sentiment you hear frequently in this relaxed, coastal city - Turkey's third largest. Izmir has always looked across the Aegean to Europe; its Greek heritage and affluent bon-viveur feel shaping its politics. The centre-left Republican People's Party, or CHP, has its stronghold here - Izmir is known as the "CHP's castle". Staunchly secular, it is the party of modern Turkey's founding father, Kemal Ataturk. In the last election, the CHP took 44% of the vote in Izmir - more than double its national share. And it is aiming higher for the poll on 7 June. Many here fear the growing conservatism of the current government. Under the 12-year rule of the Islamist-rooted AK Party, constitutionally-secular Turkey has fundamentally changed. There is now a push to raise a "pious generation" - in the words of Turkey's President Recep Tayyip Erdogan - and CHP-dominated Izmir appears increasingly isolated. But in the Bostanli market of Izmir, local CHP candidate Zeynep Altiok is full of confidence. We stroll through the rows of artichokes, succulent tomatoes and oranges. These are rich pickings for the customers - and for campaigning politicians, as she secures vital votes. "Turkey is a big mosaic," Ms Altiok tells me, as she is handed a slice of melon by one supporter. "There should be no extremes. Neighbours live beside each other, one wearing a headscarf, one without - that's what we must do. "But the government labels you: you're either with them or against them. We have to break this." Warm words, but the CHP's history isn't exactly inclusive. For decades it embodied old-school nationalism, taking a hard line towards Turkey's minorities, especially the Kurds. And it is still seen by critics as the party of the so-called "white Turks", the wealthier, Westernised parts of society. But Ms Altiok insists the party has changed. "It's now totally modern. We don't discriminate. Our approach is to bring freedom for everybody in this country." At the top of its agenda is the issue of women's rights. The government has constantly stressed its vision of stay-at-home mothers, urging three children per family. Last year,
summary: The guitar riff builds, the lyrics boom out - and Izmir's music-loving fans roar.