I don't know where your trade figures are from. ETrade, TD Ameritrade, Fidelity, etc all have trading costs under 10 USD per share, so I'm not sure where your costs are coming from. I doubt currency conversion or anything like that will double the cost. As for your question, the answer is: It depends How much trading will you do? In what types of investments? For example, Schwab charges no commission on ETF purchases, but this is not an advantage if you wont buy ETFs. Consider minimums. Different brokers have different minimum cash balance/deposit requirements, so make sure you can meet those. It's true that you can get real time quotes anywhere, but consider the other services. For example, TD Ameritrade pools research reports for many publicly traded companies which are nice to read about what analysts have to say. Different brokers given different research tools, so read about offerings and see what's most useful to you. You can open different brokerage accounts, but it's much more convenient to have a one-stop place where you can do all you trading. Pick a broker which is low cost and offers a variety of investments as well as good customer support and a straightforward system.


"If you live and work in the euro-zone, then even after a ""crash"" all of your income and most of your expenses will still be in euros. The only portion of your worth you need to worry about protecting is the portion you intend to spend on goods from outside the euro-zone (i.e. imports). In that case, you may want to consider parking some of your money in short-term government bonds issued by other countries, such as the UK, Switzerland, and USA (or wherever else your favorite goods tend to come from). If the euro actually ""massively devalues"" (an extremely unlikely scenario), then you can expect foreign goods to cost a lot more than they do now. Inflation might also pick up, so you might also want to purchase some OATis."


> Europe is a temporary problem. Lol.. The better question for this thread is how is the European economy not utterly doomed? I see no way at all of the Euro surviving. Greece has already technically defaulted by saying it's not going to pay back all of it's debt. They will officially default when Germany stops bailing them out. Spain is in the exact same situation, just about a year behind. They haven't technically defaulted yet, but they will. They're receiving bailout after bailout and the Greece situation only makes their interest rates worse. Italy is just barely behind Spain, the Greek default followed by the Spanish defualt will send Italian interest rates through the roof dooming them to the same fate. This will eventually effect the US, but our borrowing rates are held artificially low due to the Fed just printing up more fake money and letting the US borrow as much as it wants. If you don't see this scheme crumbling and collapsing, I'm just curious what you actually think *will* happen?


Since I'm missing the shortest and simplest answer, I'll add it: A car also doesn't offer dividends, yet it's still worth money. A $100 bill doesn't offer dividends, yet people are willing to offer services, or goods, or other currencies, to own that $100 bill. It's the same with a stock. If other people are willing to buy it off you for a price X, it's worth at least close to price X to you. In theory the price X depends on the value of the assets of the company, including unknown values like expected future profits or losses. Speaking from experience as a trader, in practice it's very often really just price X because others pay price X.


Thanks for posting this. Funny, but I find myself watching RT far more than CNN these days. I am not a finance expert but as an econ major I can at least follow the argument. Seems credible to me. They are just saying that the resulting downgrade of bank bonds will affect them less than their competition. The second argument is that new (2008) accounting rules allow them to show a net gain on paper when their bonds get downgraded as a result of this loss. It's a complicated argument but I can see how it make perfect sense. I like how Bob English points out the fishy and probably strategic nature of the Thursday announcement. Obviously there is a lot more to this story: http://www.zerohedge.com/contributed/2012-20-15/truth-about-jp-morgan%E2%80%99s-2-billion-loss


I want to take a loan out against an old 401k to use as the down payment on a house. The problem that I've found is that in order to borrow against the 401k it has to be considered current. I'd like to avoid rolling it over to my current job because then if I quit the entire load has to be repaid within 60 days. I'm specifically wondering if me plan of starting a company with a 401k will work. From what I can tell, there's no limit on the number of current 401ks you can have. Since I'm obviously never going to fire myself, having to suddenly repay the entire loan won't be a problem. I'd like to keep my job and money related to investments separate.


We are well known name in Designer Wallpaper Retailer and Supplier in Mumbai and Navi Mumbai. The New Jain Furnishing offers a wide range of Designer Wallpaper in Mumbai and Navi Mumbai. Over the years, New Jain Furnishing has earned a brand name for itself and has earned an enviable reputation as one of the best, finest, largest & most preferred sources of world class Designer Wallpaper in Mumbai & Navi Mumbai. New Jain Furnishing Store’s greatest strength lies in its ability to quickly understand the taste & individual requirements of the customers, and offer them precise, specialized concepts in Designer Wallpaper that amalgamate innovative designs, colors, textures and patterns. We supply Designer Wallpaper in Mumbai and Navi Mumbai region mostly.


"How do people do it? Firstly, I'd advise you to explicitly budget all taxes. The reason is because taxes get complicated when you have a child deduction. Not that raising a child is profitable post taxes, but it can change your perspective. SIWKs with high income get by just fine. The rest sacrifice. They buy less house, or rent. They drive more than 30 minutes to work every day. They work second jobs. They stop saving for retirement. And when they fail to save or plan, they borrow from family or rack up huge credit card debt. They don't buy the sweet new truck they were planning on. They cut cable and cook meals at home. They skip church, because they can't afford the tithe, and say it's because they don't have time, don't want their children to disrupt services, etc. So right now, that ""other"" basket is looking pretty juicy, and the taxes can maybe be examined as well. But ultimately, if you're looking at a 30 percent hit in pay, that won't cut it. Mortgage + food alone is nearly half your budget!"


Reversing your math, I am assuming you have $312K to work with. In that case, I would simply shop around your local banks and/or credit unions and have them compete for your money and you might be quite surprised how much they are willing to pay. A couple of months ago, you would be able to get about 4.25% from Israel Bonds in Canada on 5 years term (the Jubilee product, with minimum investment of $25K). It's a bit lower now, but you should still be able to get very good rates if you shop around tier-2 banks or credit unions (who are more hungry for capital than the well-funded tier-1 banks). Or you could look at preferred shares of a large corporation. They are different from common shares in the sense they are priced according to the payout rate (i.e. people buy it for the dividend). A quick screen from your favorite stock exchange ought to find you a few options. Another option is commercial bonds. You should be able to get that kind of return from investment grade (BBB- and higher) bonds on large corporations these days. I just did a quick glance at MarketWatch's Bond section (http://cxa.marketwatch.com/finra/BondCenter/Default.aspx) and found AAA grade bonds that will yield > 5%. You will need to investigate their underlying fundamentals, coupon rate and etc before investing (second thought, grab a introduction to bonds book from Chapters first). Hope these helps.


Short answer: Not likely. Long answer: As a rule of thumb, over the long run if you are generating 20% compounded returns on your money consistently, you are doing very good. Since in the average case your 10k would compound to $61.4k YoY, you are very unlikely to be rich in a decade starting with 10k.


Creating a website is like designing a book cover; you need to capture attention by imagery and thought-provoking titles, but it should not stop there – it should also be attractive enough to make them buy the book and read its contents. It’s a balance between aesthetic and substance satisfaction. These are the essential elements in making your site an effective lead generation tool.


The movie celebrities in movie sectors are not restricted to a specific region; however they are still popular in the entire globe. These celebs make a big count of followers in distinct regions of the globe. Among these celebs the top most and wealthiest as per their celebrity net worth: Adam Sandler and Clint Eastwood.


There are various exchanges around the world that handle spot precious metal trading; for the most part these are also the primary spot foreign exchange markets, like EBS, Thomson Reuters, Currenex (website seems to be down), etc. You can trade on these markets through brokers just like you can trade on stock markets. However, the vast majority of traders on these exchanges do not intend to hold any bullion ownership at the end of the day; they want to buy as much as they sell each day. A minority of traders do intend to hold metal positions for longer periods, but I doubt any of them intend to actually go collect bullion from the exchange. I don't think it's even possible. Really the only way to get bullion is to pay a service fee to a dealer like you mentioned. But on an exchange like the ones above you have to pay three different fees: So in the end you can't even get the spot price on the exchanges where the spot prices are determined. You might even come out ahead by going to a dealer. You should try to find a reputable dealer, and go in knowing the latest trade prices. An honest dealer will have a website showing you the current trade prices, so you know that they expect you to know the prices when you come in. For example, here's a well-known dealer in Chicago that happily shows you the spot prices from KITCO so you can decide whether their service fee is worth it or not.


We face the same issue here in Switzerland. My background: Institutional investment management, currency risk management. My thoughs are: Home Bias is the core concept of your quesiton. You will find many research papers on this topic. The main problems with a high home bias is that the investment universe in your small local investment market is usually geared toward your coutries large corporations. Lack of diversification: In your case: the ASX top 4 are all financials, actually banks, making up almost 25% of the index. I would expect the bond market to be similarly concentrated but I dont know. In a portfolio context, this is certainly a negative. Liquidity: A smaller economy obviously has less large corporations when compared globally (check wikipedia / List_of_public_corporations_by_market_capitalization) thereby offering lower liquidity and a smaller investment universe. Currency Risk: I like your point on not taking a stance on FX. This simplifies the task to find a hedge ratio that minimises portfolio volatility when investing internationally and dealing with currencies. For equities, you would usually find that a hedge ratio anywhere from 0-30% is effective and for bonds one that ranges from 80-100%. The reason is that in an equity portfolio, currency risk contributes less to overall volatility than in a bond portfolio. Therefore you will need to hedge less to achieve the lowest possible risk. Interestingly, from a global perspective, we find, that the AUD is a special case whereby, if you hedge the AUD you actually increase total portfolio risk. Maybe it has to do with the AUD being used in carry trades a lot, but that is a wild guess. Hedged share classes: You could buy the currency hedged shared classes of investment funds to invest globally without taking currency risks. Be careful to read exactly what and how the share class implements its currency hedging though.


insurance premiums My annual car premium always caught me off guard until I set up a dedicated savings account for it.


"You should spend zero on your stock research company. If the management of the company actually had persistent skill in picking stocks, they would not be peddling their knowledge to the retail market for a few hundred dollars. They would rake in millions and billions by running a huge hedge fund and buy themselves a private island or something. Unfortunately for them, hedge fund investors are not as gullible as retail investors and are more likely to sue when they discover they have been lied to. Many stock ""research"" companies are trying to manipulate you into paying too high a price for stocks. They buy a small stock, recommend it, and then sell it at the artificially (and temporarily) high price. Others are simply recommending stocks pretty much at random. You could do that just as well as they can, and for free. Portfolio performance evaluation is a complex problem. The research company knows that its recommendations will ""make good money"" about half the time and that's enough to bring in a lot of uninformed people. To know whether your portfolio actually did well you need to know how much risk there was in the portfolio and how a competing ""dumb"" portfolio with similar characteristics fared over the same time period. And you need to repeat the experiment enough times (or long enough) to know the outcome wasn't luck. I can say confidently that your portfolio performance doesn't back up the claim that the research company has skill above and beyond luck. Much less $599 worth of skill. I can also say very confidently that there are no investors with a total of 20 thousand dollars to invest for whom purchasing stock recommendations is worth the cost, even if those recommendations do have some value. Real stock information is valuable only to large investors because the per-dollar value is low. Please do not give money to or otherwise support a semi-criminal ""stock research"" enterprise."


"Your ""money market"" is cash or a ""sweep account"" that your broker is holding for you and on which the broker is paying you interest. The mutual fund is paying you dividends, not interest, even if it is a money-market mutual fund (often bearing a name such as Prime Reserve Fund) or bond mutual fund that is collecting interest on its investments and passing them on to you."


It depends on what actions the European Central Bank (ECB) takes. If it prints Euros to bail out the country then your Euros will decline in value. Same thing with a US state going bankrupt. If the FED prints dollars to bailout a state it will set a precedent that other states can spend carelessly and the FED will be there to bail them out by printing money. If you own bonds issued by the bankrupting state then you could lose some of your money if the country is not bailed out.


The term pink slime wasn't coined by the reporters. It was the name given to it by the whistleblowing USDA scientists in a 2002 email to colleagues. The term was part of the story itself. > In fact, the term “pink slime” was coined by one of the segment’s whistleblowing USDA scientists in a 2002 email to colleagues, and a 2009 New York Times piece using the term to describe BPI’s meat product won a Pulitzer Prize.


"Frankly, eliminating unlimited data on Sprint would not be a bad thing IF it meant faster speeds. As it is now, I get perhaps 125K a second speeds. Hardly worth it for ""unlimited"" or the $10 ""premium data"" charge that Sprint adds on. A few select cities that have seen Sprint's Network Vision implemented are getting faster speeds but the majority of us are limping along at speeds slightly better than 56K dialup."


Lenders may sell your mortgage to other lenders for a fee. For example, your lender might sell your mortgage to the highest bidder who may want to purchase your mortgage by making a one time payment. For your lender that's a quick profit, for the new owner of your mortgage, that's long term returns for a one time fee. For your lender, that is forgoing long term returns for short term gains (and transfer of risk in case you default). (Very similar to how bonds work in a stock exchange!) What does this mean to you? Nothing. You will still keep making payments to your original lender. What does 'transfer of ownership has not been publicly recorded mean'? It means, when you are asked about ownership details regarding your mortgage, and this could be in tax forms or refinancing etc., you would enter your original lender's information and not Freddit Mac's! Pro-tip There are lots of scams based on this. You might receive an official looking letter in mail claiming your loan has been sold and you should start making payments to the new owner. DO NOT FALL FOR THIS! Call your original lender (use the phone number from your loan papers, not mail you received) and verify this information. And if this were to happen, your original lender would always inform you first. And hey, congrats on your new home! :)


This is what everyone said about music circa 1999, that the record labels would never agree to sell their songs online because it would devalue selling albums, and a bunch of archaic thinking etc... and then the iTunes store showed the industry a better way to distribute their content, conviced the labels to play along, and Apple is now the most profitable company in the world. There's no reason this can't happen for TV, it's clearly heading there and the first person to do for TV what Apple did for music will make a fortune, hell it might even be Apple that does it, yet another reason why Apple stock is severly undervalued right now


The whopper has too much sauce for me, I prefer the McDonald's dollar menu hamburgers when I want fast food. You can customize them any which way, it still won't come out to more than $2, and it only has about 300 calories.


Interest means that the money on the accounts belongs to you, regardless of who's name is the account titled to. For example, if you give money to someone (non-US person, say, trying to avoid FBAR requirements) and that person puts it in his account but will give you money whenever you ask for it - you have interest in that account. This is in order for people not to avoid FBAR requirements by putting their money into someone's else accounts. Signature Authority means that although the account is not in your name, and the money on it is not your money - you have the right to access that account and perform operations on it. This usually happens when people are employees of a company and have signature authority over the company's accounts, but it is also frequently the case for people having signature authority over the accounts that belong to their family members (for example - your parents are not US persons, but they gave you access to their account because they don't know how to work with the bank and you do - you have signature authority over the account). If you have your own account - you have both interest in it and signature authority over it.


This question was asked three years ago, but now that it's 2017 there is actually a relatively easy, cheap and fast solution to at least the first half of your question. To cash the check: I've done this a half dozen times while abroad (from the US) without any problems.


No, they do not. Stock funds and bonds funds collect income dividends in different ways. Stock funds collect dividends (as well as any capital gains that are realized) from the underlying stocks and incorporates these into the funds’ net asset value, or daily share price. That’s why a stock fund’s share price drops when the fund makes a distribution – the distribution comes out of the fund’s total net assets. With bond funds, the internal accounting is different: Dividends accrue daily, and are then paid out to shareholders every month or quarter. Bond funds collect the income from the underlying bonds and keep it in a separate internal “bucket.” A bond fund calculates a daily accrual rate for the shares outstanding, and shareholders only earn income for the days they actually hold the fund. For example, if you buy a bond fund two days before the fund’s month-end distribution, you would only receive two days’ worth of income that month. On the other hand, if you sell a fund part-way through the month, you will still receive a partial distribution at the end of the month, pro-rated for the days you actually held the fund. Source Also via bogleheads: Most Vanguard bond funds accrue interest to the share holders daily. Here is a typical statement from a prospectus: Each Fund distributes to shareholders virtually all of its net income (interest less expenses) as well as any net capital gains realized from the sale of its holdings. The Fund’s income dividends accrue daily and are distributed monthly. The term accrue used in this sense means that the income dividends are credited to your account each day, just like interest in a savings account that accrues daily. Since the money set aside for your dividends is both an asset of the fund and a liability, it does not affect the calculated net asset value. When the fund distributes the income dividends at the end of the month, the net asset value does not change as both the assets and liabilities decrease by exactly the same amount. [Note that if you sell all of your bond fund shares in the middle of the month, you will receive as proceeds the value of your shares (calculated as number of shares times net asset value) plus a separate distribution of the accrued income dividends.]


Having all of the numbers you posted is a start. It's what you need to perform the calculation. The final word, however, comes from the company itself, who are required to issue a determination on how the spin-off is valued. Say a company is split into two. Instead of some number of shares of each new company, imagine for this example it's one for one. i.e. One share of company A becomes a share each in company B and company C. This tell us nothing about relative valuation, right? Was B worth 1/2 of the original company A, or some other fraction? Say it is exactly a 50/50 split. Company A releases a statement that B and C each should have 1/2 the cost basis of your original A shares. Now, B and C may very well trade ahead of the stock splitting, as 'when issued' shares. At no point in time will B and C necessarily trade at exactly the same price, and the day that B and C are officially trading, with no more A shares, they may have already diverged in price. That is, there's nothing you can pull from the trading data to identify that the basis should have been assigned as 50% to each new share. This is my very long-winded was of explaining that the company must issue a notice through your broker, and on their investor section of their web site, to spell out the way you should assign your basis to each new stock.


"For Non-Resident filers, New York taxes New York-sourced income. That includes: real or tangible personal property located in New York State (including certain gains or losses from the sale or exchange of an interest in an entity that owns real property in New York State); services performed in New York State; a business, trade, profession, or occupation carried on in New York State; and a New York S corporation in which you are a shareholder (including installment income from an IRC 453 transaction). There are some exclusions as well. It is all covered in the instructions to form IT-203. However, keep in mind that ""filing"" as non-resident doesn't make you non-resident. If you spend 184 days or more in New York State, and you have a place to stay there - you are resident. See definitions here. Even if you don't actually live there and consider yourself a CT resident."


Assuming cell A1 contains the number of trades: will price up to A1=100 at 17 each, and the rest at 14 each. The key is the MAX and MIN. They keep an item from being counted twice. If X would end up negative, MAX(0,x) clamps it to 0. By extension, if X-100 would be negative, MAX(0, X-100) would be 0 -- ie: that number doesn't increase til X>100. When A1=99, MIN(a1,100) == 99, and MAX(0,a1-100) == 0. When A1=100, MIN(a1,100) == 100, and MAX(0,a1-100) == 0. When A1=101, MIN(a1,100) == 100, and MAX(0,a1-100) == 1. Of course, if the 100th item should be $14, then change the 100s to 99s.


"No, the language in the Constitution is permissive, not mandatory. The *grant of power* to Congress is mandatory (shall), but nowhere does it say Congress ""shall/must"" etc establish a post office. The same clause also says that the government can establish post Roads, but those roads no longer exist, having been folded into other road systems. Must Congress also maintain a separate post road network? By your logic it must, but that is clearly an absurd result. ""Maintain"" is only used for the Navy, which was always expected to exist continuously. Congress can also ""raise and support armies"", language reflecting the expectation that there would be no standing army, but neither ""maintain"" nor ""support"" are used for the post office. Congress has the power to create the post office and post roads, bit it doesn't have to. It certainly doesn't have to maintain them. Nor is there any reason to think that establishing the post office and privatizing it is impermissible, since it follows the dictate of the clause. Even if it were unconstitutional, what is the relief? Who could sue who to have what done?"


"I'm not worried about them tracking me (I'm a boring white guy who might even be flattered). But, I'm also not selfish and short-sighted... The huge problem is the unjust abuses of other people's rights. I'm talking about people who have done no wrong, but are ""suspicious"" for bullshit reasons. It's wrong already, and acceptance of it only serves to keep expanding it. It may not affect us today, but it threatens affect us all tomorrow."


Do you need to do anything special when you receive such a huge amount of money? YES, ABSOLUTELY! 1st: Hire a lawyer. Retain him. Preferably one who has experience with high net worth clients. 2nd: Hire a financial advisor/wealth manager. Similarly, one who has experience with high net worth clients. 3rd: Tell no one else that you won. I cannot stress this point enough. Do these things before you even claim your prize. Winning the lottery seems like a great thing to people who haven't won, but statistically speaking most people end up worse off. Most people, not just lottery winners, but people who come into large sums of money unexpectedly just don't know how to handle it. Hire people who do know how to handle that sort of thing and get them on your side. If you win the lottery PROTECT YOURSELF! Go here: https://www.reddit.com/r/AskReddit/comments/24vo34/whats_the_happiest_5word_sentence_you_could_hear/chb38xf and read the top comment.


...And the US national debt **is** going up, accordingly. That said, as long as Americans want Korean electronics, *and* we're not selling more to Korea than they are to us, **and** (most importantly) Korea would rather have US dollars than issue more Won... *Both* sides come out ahead. Debt isn't necessarily *bad*, it's just a bill you need to remember will come due some day.


I do this all the time, my credit rating over time plotted on a graph looks like saw blades going upward on a slope I use a credit alert service to get my credit reports quarterly, and I know when the credit agencies update their files (every three months), so I never have a high balance at those particular times Basically, I use the negative hard pulls to propel my credit score upwards with a the consequentially lowered credit utilization ratio, and the credit history. So here is how it works for me, but I am not an impulse buyer and I wouldn't recommend it for most people as I have seen spending habits: Month 1: charge cards, pay minimum balance (raises score multiple points) Month 2: PAY OFF ALL CREDIT CARDS, massive deleveraging using actual money I already have (raises score multiple points) Month 3: get credit report showing low balance, charge cards, pay minimum balance ask for extensions of credit, AND followup on new credit line offers (lowers score several points per credit inquiry) Month 4: charge cards, pay minimum balance, discretionally approving hard pulls - always have room for one or two random hard pulls, such as for a new cell phone contract, or renting a car, or employment, etc Month 5: PAY OFF CREDIT CARDS using actual money you have. (the trick is to NEVER really go above a 15% credit utilization ratio, and to never overleverage. Tricky because very quickly you will get enough credit to go bankrupt) Month 6: get credit report showing low balances, a slight dip in score from last quarter, but still high continue.


"Nobody has mentioned the futures market yet. Although the stock market closes at 4pm, the futures market continues trading 24 hours a day and 5.5 days a week. Amongst the products that trade in the future market are stock index futures. That includes the Dow Jones, the S&P 500. These are weighted averages of stocks and their sectors. You would think that the price of the underlying stock dictates the price of the average, but in this day and age, the derivative actually changes the value of the underlying stock due to a very complex combination of hedging practices. (this isn't meant to be vague and mysterious, it is ""delta hedging"") So normal market fluctuations coupled with macroeconomic events affect the futures market, which can ripple down to individual stocks. Very popular stocks with large market caps will most certainly be affected by futures market trading. But it is also worth mentioning that futures can function completely independently of a ""spot"" price. This is where things start to get complicated and long winded. The futures market factor is worth mentioning because it extends even outside of the aftermarket and pre-market hours of stock trading."


In the US, dividends have special tax treatment similar to, but not the same as Capital Gains. No easy way to transform one to the other, the very fact that you invested your money in a company that has returned part of your capital as income means it is just that, income. Also in the US, you could invest in Master Limited Partnerships. These are companies that make distributions that are treated as a return of capital, instead of dividends. Throughout the life of the investment you receive tax forms that assign part of the operating expense/loss of the company to you as a tax payer. Then at the end of the investment life you are required to recapture those losses as Capital Gains on sale of the stock. In some ways, these investments do exactly what you are asking about. They transform periodic income into later capital gains, basically deferring tax on the income until the sale of the security. Here is an article I found about MLPs coming to the UK through an ETF: Master Limited Partnerships in the UK


"Bonds are valued based on all of this, using the concept of the ""time value of money"". Simply stated, money now is worth more than money later, because of what you can do with money between now and later. Case in point: let's say the par value of a bond is $100, and will mature 10 years from this date (these are common terms for most bonds, though the U.S. Treasury has a variety of bonds with varying par values and maturation periods), with a 0% coupon rate (nothing's paid out prior to maturity). If the company or government issuing the bonds needs one million dollars, and the people buying the bonds are expecting a 5% rate of return on their investment, then each bond would only sell for about $62, and the bond issuer would have to sell a par value of $1.62 million in bonds to get its $1m now. These numbers are based on equations that calculate the ""future value"" of an investment made now, and conversely the ""present value"" of a future return. Back to that time value of money concept, money now (that you're paying to buy the bond) is worth more than money later (that you'll get back at maturity), so you will expect to be returned more than you invested to account for this time difference. The percentage of rate of return is known as the ""yield"" or the ""discount rate"" depending on what you're calculating, what else you take into consideration when defining the rate (like inflation), and whom you talk to. Now, that $1.62m in par value may be hard for the bond issuer to swallow. The issuer is effectively paying interest on interest over the lifetime of the bond. Instead, many issuers choose to issue ""coupon bonds"", which have a ""coupon rate"" determining the amount of a ""coupon payment"". This can be equated pretty closely with you making interest-only payments on a credit card balance; each period in which interest is compounded, you pay the amount of interest that has accrued, to avoid this compounding effect. From an accounting standpoint, the coupon rate lowers the amount of real monies paid; the same $1m in bonds, maturing in 10 years with a 5% expected rate of return, but with a 5% coupon rate, now only requires payments totalling $1.5m, and that half-million in interest is paid $50k at a time annually (or $25k semi-annually). But, from a finance standpoint, because the payments made in the first few years are worth more than the payments made closer to and at maturity, the present value of all these coupon payments (plus the maturity payout) is higher than if the full payout happened at maturity, and so the future value of the total investment is higher. Coupon rates on bonds thus allow a bond issuer to plan a bond package in less complicated terms. If you as a small business need $1m for a project, which you will repay in 10 years, and during that time you are willing to tolerate a 5% interest rate on the outstanding money, then that's exactly how you issue the bonds; $1 million worth, to mature in 10 years and a 5% coupon rate. Now, whether the market is willing to accept that rate is up to the market. Right now, they'd be over the moon with that rate, and would be willing to buy the bonds for more than their face value, because the present value would then match the yield they're willing to accept (as in any market system, you as the seller will sell to the highest bidder to get the best price available). If however, they think you are a bad bet, they'll want an even higher rate of return, and so the present value of all coupon and maturity payments will be less than the par value, and so will the purchase price."


Name one country that spend that much money in such short period to get out of recession. You have to find some sub-saharan despot to match the number. (no. japan ain't it. considering the massive surplus current account and trade balance.) https://tradingeconomics.com/japan/current-account https://tradingeconomics.com/united-states/current-account


I'm not sure what the point here is. On a macro level, we all know globalization is good and that some markets and types of work die out as others take over. One (digital) computer can do more than a whole building of human computers. However, for the individual who has pride in his or her work as e.g a coal miner, and who made a decent living, won't be better off working for Arby's. Nor knowing that Arby's is a bigger employer.


I mostly agree with everything you said except the part regarding debt. The whole point was that continued growth would pay off debt, not that individuals would go into more debt than they can pay off. The second idea would be illogical as debt holders want to get payed back.


The car has value, but it is still a depreciating asset. You're paying far more to rent a space to park the car than you are to own and drive it if you look beyond the initial term of your loan. You could buy a space to keep the car, but at $225,000 for a permanent spot, renting is a much better deal. Would you travel home as frequently if you didn't have the fixed cost of a parking space rental giving you incentive to make the most of the car since you're paying for it either way? My additional question is whether the freedom to travel home on a whim is worth more than the financial freedom you would gain by investing the money for the long term. I don't think it's irresponsible if the short term freedom contributes significantly to your sense of well-being, but even if it isn't entirely sunk cost, the majority of it is. The only way you can really know whether it's worth it to you would be to park the car at home for a month or two to see if you can live without it. Fortunately you don't lose much money in this experiment, since you're only paying 1.9% interest.


Coach Aniko is the creator and CEO at home organization solutions. Her objective is to empower internet marketers to make a lifestyle by design. I train internet marketers with online advertising skill sets so they can market everything, to any individual, anywhere in the entire world.


"Between 6 months and a year is normally regarded as the ""standard"". Plan out what your monthly expenses are and save that money away. One thing to consider is what extras can you give up. If you are currently eating steak and lobster every day can you live with switching to ramen noodles for a period of time? Can you switch from premium cable to basic cable (or cancel it altogether)? Questions like this can greatly impact the amount you have to set aside. I personally have my emergency fund in CDs that mature the first of every month. I know there is less liquidity in this approach but I'm ok with that. My emergency fund is a sum of cash I'll always have so I wanted to reap the benefits of a higher yield. If it comes down to it I can place an expense on a credit card and pay off the credit card when funds become available."


Welcome to Money.SE. As Dheer notes, we can come up with pretty good advice with more details. Absent any more information, I'd offer this - money withdrawn today, from a traditional IRA, is subject to tax and 10% penalty. The day you turn 59-1/2, that 10% penalty evaporates. Withdrawals at that time are still subject to ordinary tax at your marginal rate. If you happen to be in the 15% bracket, it may make sense (at 59.5) to withdraw enough to top off that bracket and use the extra money to supplement those payments. If you are already a 25%er, you have to decide whether this money is better spent paying the loans early. Much of that decision is based on the rates involved. More important, in my opinion. what is the child doing? You borrowed money (I assume) to send a kid to college, and now he's out. Is he not able to chip in? $715K in retirement is pretty great, in the higher end of what pre-retirees have. It translates to just under $30K/yr in withdrawals at retirement. A decent number, really, but not a number that has you comfortably paying for this debt.


"The company released its 2nd Quarter Revenue of $1,957,921 a couple days ago however the stock did not move up in any way. Why? If the company is making money shouldn't the stock go up. During the time between earnings announcements, analysts occasionally publish their assessment of a company, including their estimate of the company's value and future earnings. And as part of an earnings report, companies often include ""guidance"": their prediction for the upcoming quarter (this will frequently be a conservative estimate, so they're more likely to achieve it). Investors make their purchase and sale decisions based on this information. When the earnings report comes out, investors compare these actual returns to analysts' predictions and the company's guidance. If their results are in line with these predictions, the stock price is unlikely to move much, as those results are already incorporated into the stock price. If the company is doing better than predicted, it's usually a good sign, and the price often rises; conversely, if it's doing worse, the price will likely fall. But it's not as simple as this. As others have explained, for long-term investors, stock prices are based on expectations of future activity. If the results of that quarter include some one-time actions that are unlikely to repeat, investors will often discount that portion."


"IBM had another trick where they would set up people to fail.. then give them a bad review.. than put all the people with bad reviews on a project - then sabotage the project and then then get anothger bad review and are on the way to being ""managed out"""


**Richard Feynman** Richard Phillips Feynman (; May 11, 1918 – February 15, 1988) was an American theoretical physicist known for his work in the path integral formulation of quantum mechanics, the theory of quantum electrodynamics, and the physics of the superfluidity of supercooled liquid helium, as well as in particle physics for which he proposed the parton model. For his contributions to the development of quantum electrodynamics, Feynman, jointly with Julian Schwinger and Shin'ichirō Tomonaga, received the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1965. Feynman developed a widely used pictorial representation scheme for the mathematical expressions governing the behavior of subatomic particles, which later became known as Feynman diagrams. During his lifetime, Feynman became one of the best-known scientists in the world. *** ^[ [^PM](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=kittens_from_space) ^| [^Exclude ^me](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=WikiTextBot&message=Excludeme&subject=Excludeme) ^| [^Exclude ^from ^subreddit](https://np.reddit.com/r/economy/about/banned) ^| [^FAQ ^/ ^Information](https://np.reddit.com/r/WikiTextBot/wiki/index) ^| [^Source](https://github.com/kittenswolf/WikiTextBot) ^] ^Downvote ^to ^remove ^| ^v0.27


"Unfortunately, there is very little data supporting fundamental analysis or technical analysis as appropriate tools to ""time"" the market. I will be so bold to say that technical analysis is meaningless. On the other hand, fundamental analysis has some merits. For example, the realization that CDOs were filled with toxic mortgages can be considered a product of fundamental analysis and hence provided traders with a directional assumption to buy CDSs. However, there is no way to tell when there is a good or bad time to buy or sell. The market behaves like a random 50/50 motion. There are many reasons for this and interestingly, there are many fundamentally sound companies that take large dips for no reason at all. Depending on your goal, you can either believe that this volatility will smooth over long periods and that the market has generally positive drift. On the other hand, I feel that the appropriate approach is to remain active. You will be able to mitigate the large downswings by simply staying small and diversifying - not in the sense of traditional finance but rather looking for uncorrelated products. Remember, volatility brings higher levels of correlation. My second suggestion is to look towards products like options to provide a method of shaping your P/L - giving up upside by selling calls against a long equity position is a great example. Ground your trades with fundamental beliefs if need be, but use your tools and knowledge to combat risks that may create long periods of drawdown."


>No. He worked overtime, he deserves his pay - not paying him 200k is wrong. He shouldn't be allowed to work overtime. Bridge patrol should be mandated to be well rested and never overworked. They should work max 40 hrs a week. And they should be salaried and not hourly. >Is it mismanagement? Yes OK, so it seems we agree. I'm not saying let's stop paying for overtime. I'm just saying we shouldn't be paying that much money to highway patrol, even if it's bridge patrol.


Sure, all the income gains have gone to the top, along with gains in wealth from capital appreciation. However, the Fed's expansion of money supply doesn't change that one way or the other. I suspect the root issue here is the erosion of wages by automation, which concentrates wealth and income among the elite. The Fed can't fight that alone, but Congress won't touch it as they depend on the same elite for campaign funding and TV exposure.


"A few years ago, I stumbled across a little-known band and thought about buying tickets to their upcoming show. The tickets were an absolute steal, maybe $20 each because no one had heard of them but I didn't bother at the time. Figured I'd wait until closer to the tour date. Fast forward to about a month before the show. They had released a very popular single that summer and tickets were being sold online for well over $100. I remember thinking ""if only I knew these guys were going to be a big name one day"". I suppose I could have made a killing buy purchasing tons of tickets and selling them just before the event at a mad profit. That's about the only scenario I can think of."


The key factors here are You will need to pay tax in the UK only if you live more than 183 days - that too in a tax year. Indian tax system will also classify you as a NR (Non-resident) if you live outside for more than 182 days in a tax year. In your case, your income will be in India and will stay in India. So there should not be any UK tax until you try and get that money to the UK. I will not go into outlining what if you want to go down that road since it does not apply. As for tax in India, You will need to pay tax since the source of income is Indian. Hope this helps.


"It's significant. I look at the VIX Index. The VIX futures. etc. Usually stock market scares from financial worries (the economy, liquidity freezes, European country defaults etc) tend to last a bit longer, and non-financial worries (plane crashes, military skirmishes) tend to last a few days - then back to biz as usual. My feeling is that the S&P500 will continue to grind higher as long as the US economy remains on life support (US fed injections), and you will see these periodic -5% S&P500 mini-scares (which are buying opportunities) but the overall trend will remain intact (from the ""lower left to the upper right"" as that goof Dennis Gartman says). Once the US Fed stops the bond purchase program - it's anybody's guess. I also think we're in a tech stock bubble again but that's another topic."


I have an interview coming up for an investment operations position. As someone who's fresh out of college, and who doesn't have the qualifications to get into the front office, I've realized that I'll probably have to take a job in the back office. The pay for this job would actually be solid, especially for the area so I am not disappointed with that. Ideally I'd like to be a financial analyst though. If I were to get a job in the BO (at this point point I'd access the offer if one was made) how can I make sure I don't get stuck for the next 30-40 years?


Unfortunately this is something that should have been determined prior to the book tour. Your tax advisor or accountant could have assisted you in making sure you collected the documentation you needed. You are going to have to sit down with your advisor with the documentation you have and determine what you can prove.


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Its not just the insurers. Healthcare facilities were floating on which way to go and not upgrading or expanding their locations. Now they have started to move towards expansion and change would throw that all up in the air.


"Is your mother still paying the premiums, or are you? If you're paying the premiums, then just contact the company and say you are no longer willing to pay and want to cancel the policy. If she's paying the premiums, why do you care? If the issue is the non-smoking declaration, and you are a smoker or want to take up smoking ... I don't know what country you live in, but I'd be surprised if there's a law anywhere that gives your mother the legal authority to forbid you from smoking when you are over 18. If you are paying the premiums, then contact the insurance company and tell them that you are no longer a non-smoker. The premiums may go up. If she is paying the premiums, tell her that you are now a smoker and that she should contact the insurance company about changing this clause in the policy if she wants to be sure it remains valid. If she declines to do this, that's between her and the insurance company. As you're not a party to the contract, it really has nothing to do with you. If, as you say, your mother is not fully capable of managing her affairs, you could contact the insurance company for her. I don't see how you could get the policy ""invalidated"". Unless there is some evidence that the life insurance company made false claims, or somehow tricked your mother into buying the policy, or that the policy violates local law, there is nothing ""invalid"" about it. Just because you've decided you don't want the policy doesn't make it invalid. Likewise I don't see how you could get the premiums refunded. The whole point of life insurance is that you pay a monthly premium, and if and when you die, they pay the beneficiary the face value of the policy. Life insurance is often described as a kind of gambling game: The insurance company is betting that you will live long enough to pay more in premiums than they pay out in benefits. You are betting that you will get more in benefits than you pay in premiums. If you die young, you win! If you could wait and see if you die within some time period, and if not demand your premiums back, well, that would be like saying that you want to bet on a spin of the roulette wheel, and if you win you take your winnings, and if you lose you want to get your original bet back. What casino would agree to that? You should be able to cancel the policy at any time. I suppose there might be some specific commitment in the contract, like you pledge not to cancel within X years. If you never signed it, I don't see how you could be obligated to pay for it, regardless of what commitments your mother made. I don't know where you live or your country's laws, but I doubt your mother can sign a contract legally committing you to pay for something for the rest of your life. You say it's a ""whole life"" policy, which means it should have some cash value if you cancel it, i.e. you get SOME money back. Not everything you and/or your mother paid in, but something."


"It depends on when she became the shareholder of record. When your wife received the stock, was ownership clearly transferred to her? If it was, then she should have the right to sell it if she wants. The gross amount of the sale will be reported to the IRS, and then it will be up to you (and/or your tax advisers) to determine its tax basis so that you pay tax only on the appropriate gain. If she hasn't become the shareholder of record yet, then it can be a bit of a mess. Your wife's father saying ""Merry Christmas; I'm giving you 500 shares of AAPL"" doesn't transfer ownership to you. Him calling up the brokerage and transferring them into an account with her name (or her name and his name) does. Is your wife's father's estate settled yet? If not, then sorting all of this out is part of the fun. If it is, and this asset was left dangling out there, then that's beyond anything I know about."


"If you mortgage after the fact you will usually pay an extra .25% higher on the interest rate because a ""cash out"" refinance is treated as riskier than a new home purchase mortgage. You might save enough on the purchase price of the home with a cash offer to make that higher interest rate worth it, but in most cases, if you are planning to hold the loan for a long time, it's best to get that mortgage at the time of purchase. You might be able to get the same deal with an offer that says you will pay cash if there are any problems getting the loan approved."


The US has a number of regulations which are stricter than Canada's (case in point, the requirement for treatment of sewage came into effect much earlier for the US then Canada), this is not necessarily going to result in higher impositions for the US.


"Thousands of others making >100k with no need to have buckets of student debt to learn the trade. Pop open linkedin, search in the bay area for ""front end."" Filter by ""posted last 24 hours."" Should see about a thousand jobs. Do this daily, the number doesn't drop, and linkedin doesn't let companies spam post, so that's nearly 1000 unique jobs, daily."


"It will be interesting to see if Paypal will pull its services from the [finalcall.com](https://store.finalcall.com/cart), the Nation of Islam's main online newspaper. For anyone interested: Nation of Islam is categorized as a Black Separatist hate group by the [SPLC](https://www.splcenter.org/fighting-hate/extremist-files/group/nation-islam), which teaches that the [white race or ""blue-eyed devils""](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yakub_\(Nation_of_Islam\)) is an inferior, evil race created to cause destruction and dominate humanity. > Its theology of innate black superiority over whites and the deeply racist, anti-Semitic and anti-gay rhetoric of its leaders have earned the NOI a prominent position in the ranks of organized hate. [Source](https://www.splcenter.org/fighting-hate/extremist-files/group/nation-islam) From Louis Farrakhan, leader of the Nation of Islam: > It's the wicked Jews, the false Jews, that are promoting lesbianism, homosexuality. It's the wicked Jews, false Jews, that make it a crime for you to preach the word of God, then they call you homophobic!"" [Source](https://www.splcenter.org/fighting-hate/extremist-files/group/nation-islam) Sound familiar?"


I agree with IronAnvil. My research and studies in the area of Japanese production [method](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Toyota_Way) supports the idea that middle-management is mostly a drag on effective operations at virtually any organization. Here's a somewhat relevant [counter](http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-bloggers/2554052/posts) to OP's post.


"Traditional banks don't put their money onto the stock markets. In fact, the economic crisis was in part caused by the fact that banks were placing money into higher-risk portfolios and doing just that: in the UK there has been a debate for the last few years specifically around ""firewalling"" retail and investment bank operations entirely. What I was discussing was in the retail/consumer sector where the money comes in as mortgages & secured loans and - slightly riskier - unsecured credit, credit cards, etc. In that model, you do not need to be a genius. If I lend you $20k to buy a car and you don't repay me my money plus 8%, I get the car and therefore am unlikely to be seriously out of pocket. The only thing I have to do is make sure I lend to people likely to repay more often than I do to those who will not. And that, well, that's something we've got a few hundred years of experience with... If I walk onto the NYSE and start throwing around my cash at put option on exotic FX markets that are in turn responding to conditions almost impossible to truly understand, well, I'm sure we'd agree that it's hard to beat the market. That's why the investment banks who specialise in that market don't invest their own money: they make money from investing other people's cash. Clever guys. So we need to understand here there are two very different kinds of banks, with two very different business models, and it was the mixing of them that led to the disaster we've seen. Firewalling them makes sense to me! Communists who think banks are making money out of thin air don't seem to understand that, and so it's not surprising that they seem confused about what a bank is actually there for. Those who do get these two models must see that a retail bank is there to provide finance based on savings held and investment banks are there to help people invest in riskier markets. That does not mean they are ""magic"" or ""evil"". Now, they might argue that fractional reserve banking is a problem. I would imagine many of them would prefer the credit union model instead, but that's a different debate: that's the mechanics and detail, not the institutional need for existence."


Posted this week: [People working on Wall Street how did you get there, and do you have any tips for people who want to pursue a career in finance. \(Me\)](http://www.reddit.com/r/finance/comments/2d7f99/people_working_on_wall_street_how_did_you_get/) [How did you break into the finance sector?](http://www.reddit.com/r/finance/comments/2dk37k/how_did_you_break_into_the_finance_sector/)


When economies are strong, it is particularly alluring to have a single currency as it makes trade and tourism simpler and helps reduce costs. The problem comes when individual member economies get into trouble. Because the Eurozone is a loose grouping of nations, there is no direct equivalent of the US Federal government to coordinate a response, there is instead an odd mixture of National and Central government that makes it harder to get a unified approach to the economy (OK, it's maybe not so different to the US in reality). This lack of flexibility means that some of the key levers of international finance are compromised, for example a weak economy can't float its currency to improve exports. Similarly individual country's interest rates can't be adjusted to balance spending. I suspect the main reason though is political and based on concepts of sovereignty and national pride. The UK does the majority of its trade with the Eurozone, so the pros would possibly outweigh the cons, but the UK as a whole (and some of our papers in particular) have always regarded Europe with suspicion. Most Brits only speak English and find France and Germany a strange and obtuse place. The (almost) common language makes it easier to relate to the US and Canada than our near neighbours. It seems the perception amongst the political establishment is that any attempt to join the Euro is political suicide, while that is the case it is unlikely to happen. Purely from a personal perspective, I'd welcome the Euro except it means a lot of the products I routinely buy would become a lot more expensive if price is 'harmonised'. For an example compare the price of the iPod Touch in the UK (£209.99) to France(€299). The French pay £262 at the current exchange rate, which is close to 25% more. Ouch. See also my question about Canada adopting the US Dollar


My understanding is that the only tax implication is that any interest income earned on foreign accounts is still taxable in the US if held by a US citizen. If the total across foreign accounts totals more than $10,000 you'll have to report those accounts to the Treasury via FinCEN Form 114, this doesn't create any additional tax obligations, it's just a regulatory measure to stop people from hiding money overseas and not paying tax on those earnings. If the US account is only in your husband's name, and the Australian account is only in your name, there may not be any reporting requirement to the Treasury. Money transferred between spouses is not subjected to gift-tax.


For press releases about economic data, the Bureau of Economic Analysis press release page is helpful. Depending on the series, you could also look at the Bureau of Labor Statistics press release page. For time series of both historical and present data, the St. Louis Federal Reserve maintains a database such data, including numerous measures of GDP, called FRED. They list nearly 15,000 series related to GDP alone. FRED is extremely useful because it allows you to make graphs that indicate areas of recession, like this: On the series' homepage, there's a bold link on the left side to download the data. If you simply need the most recent data, it's listed below the graph on that page. If you're interested in a more in-depth analysis, you can use the Bureau of Economic Analysis as well, specifically the National Income and Product Accounts, which are most of the numbers that feed into the calculation of GDP. FRED also archives some of these data. Both FRED and the BEA compile data on numerous other economic benchmarks as well. Other general sources for a wide range of announcements are the Yahoo, Bloomberg, and the Wall Street Journal economic calendars. These provide the dates of many economic announcements, e.g. existing home sales, durable orders, crude inventories, etc. Yahoo provides links to the raw data where available; Bloomberg and the WSJ provide links to their article where appropriate. This is a great way to learn about various announcements and how they affect the markets; for example, the somewhat disappointing durable orders announcement recently pushed markets down a few points. For Europe, look at Eurostat. On the left side of the page, they list links to common data, including GDP. They list the latest releases on the home page that I previously linked to. For the sake of keeping this question short, I'm lumping the rest of the world into this paragraph. Data for many other countries is maintained by their governments or central banks in a similar fashion. The World Bank's databank also has relevant data like Gross National Income (GNI), which isn't identical to GDP, but it's another (less common) macroeconomic indicator. You can also look at the economic calendar on livecharts.co.uk or xe.com, which list events for the US, Europe, Australasia, and some Latin American countries. If you're only interested in the US, the Bloomberg or Yahoo calendars may have a higher signal-to-noise ratio, but if you're interested in following how global markets like currency markets respond to new information, a global economic calendar is a must. Dailyfx.com also has a global economic calendar that, according to them, is specifically geared towards events that affect the forex market. As I said, governments and central banks compile a lot of this data, so to make searching easier, here are a few links to statistical agencies and central banks for major countries. I compiled this list a while ago on my personal machine, so although I think all the links are accurate, leave a comment if something isn't quite right. Statistics Australia / Brazil / Canada / Canada / China / Eurostat / France / Germany / IMF / Japan / Mexico / OECD / Thailand / UK / US Central banks Australia / Brazil / Canada / Chile / China / ECB / Hungary / India / Indonesia / Israel / Japan / Mexico / Norway / Russia / Sweden / Switzerland / Thailand / UK / US


I stopped paying for television from my cable company a few years ago. I have Netflix, Hulu Plus, Roku, DVDs, Bluray, ect. The only thing I wish I had that I don't is HBOgo. I'm in the same boat about commercials as the author. When I'm at someone else's house and a commercial comes on, it is a novel thing.


This chart showing percentage of smartphone market by operating system is interesting: https://www.statista.com/statistics/266136/global-market-share-held-by-smartphone-operating-systems/ It shows that Apple has a cyclical trend where the percentage of smartphones sold by Apple peaks in the 4th quarter of every year at around 20% and then gradually goes down to around 15% in the 3rd quarter of each year. Apple basically survives on a fad-like cycle very similar to automobiles where a new model overcomes the price difference with primarily android phones to create a surge of buyers each year around Christmas.


"My knee-jerk reaction was ""no, they are not worth it"", but I took a little time to look up what some of the trusted names in consumer electronics reviews had to say about extended warranties/service contracts. A cnet writer said that your decision should consider the price of the service contract relative to the price of the item you're buying, as well as the amount of hassle you're willing to endure, should something go wrong. Consumer Reports believes that the warranties that come with your products are almost always enough, and they say that electronics and appliances are so well-built nowadays, the likelihood of you needing extra service before you upgrade are slim-to-none. And the folks over at epinions.com offer the same maybe-yes-maybe-no advice as the cnet guys: depends on your appetite for risk and the options available to you. So I would suggest that the answer be ""no"" most of the time, but consider it anyway."


To Chris' comment, find out if the assignment commission is the same as the commission for an executed trade. If that does affect the profit, just let it expire. I've had spreads (buy a call, sell a higher strike call, same dates) so deep in the money, I just made sense to let both exercise at expiration. Don't panic if all legs ofthe trade don't show until Sunday or even Monday morning.


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Enormous revenue, not profits. Profits would be taxed. Doesn't seem like a problem to me. You can't spend money without realizing the profits - it's wealth on paper. (You can do interesting things like use it for donations to offset current income, as an individual. Or use it as collateral for transactions without actually selling it and realizing the gains.)


It's only expensive and failing (at the moment) due to trumps behaviors. It might not be perfect for the long run, but we don't need a president making dangerous decisions to de fund Healthcare by millions which wasn't approved by congress. And he's doing it for his own personal political gain because he knows t will fire up is supporters, like you. Well I've got news for you.. I hope you have good health insurance and don't get cancer. You might be burning your MAGA hat overnight.


If you want to 'offset' current (2016) income, only deductible contribution to a traditional IRA does that. You can make nondeductible contributions to a trad IRA, and there are cases where that makes sense for the future and cases where it doesn't, but it doesn't give you a deduction now. Similarly a Roth IRA has possible advantages and disadvantages, but it does not have a deduction now. Currently he maximum is $5500 per person ($6500 if over age 50, but you aren't) which with two accounts (barely) covers your $10k. To be eligible to make this deductible traditional contribution, you must have earned income (employment or self-employment, but NOT the distribution from another IRA) at least the amount you want to contribute NOT have combined income (specifically MAGI, Modified Adjusted Gross Income) exceeding the phaseout limit (starts at $96,000 for married-joint) IF you were covered during the year (either you or your spouse) by an employer retirement plan (look at box 13 on your W-2's). With whom. Pretty much any bank, brokerage, or mutual fund family can handle IRAs. (To be technical, the bank's holding company will have an investment arm -- to you it will usually look like one operation with one name and logo, one office, one customer service department, one website etc, but the investment part must be legally separate from the insured banking part so you may notice a different name on your legal and tax forms.) If you are satisified with the custodian of the inherited IRA you already have, you might just stay with them -- they may not need as much paperwork, you don't need to meet and get comfortable with new people, you don't need to learn a new website. But if they sold you an annuity at your age -- as opposed to you inheriting an already annuitized IRA -- I'd want a lot of details before trusting they are acting in your best interests; most annuities sold to IRA holders are poor deals. In what. Since you want only moderate risk at least to start, and also since you are starting with a relatively small amount where minimum investments, expenses and fees can make more of an impact on your results, I would go with one or a few broad (= lower risk) index (= lower cost) fund(s). Every major fund familly also offers at least a few 'balanced' funds which give you a mixture of stocks and bonds, and sometimes some 'alternatives', in one fund. Remember this is not committing you forever; any reasonable custodian will allow you to move or spread to more-adventurous (but not wild and crazy) investments, which may be better for you in future years when you have some more money in the account and some more time to ponder your goals and options and comfort level.


From my experience it is much easier to start as a self-employed rather than a limited company. You almost have no paperwork and self assessment can be done online in as little as 20 minutes (from personal experience). On the other hand having a limited company grants you a pile of papers to fill in from the start and almost certainly needing an accountant to do your taxes. Regarding the income tax - if you have no profits, you will pay no tax. And that will leave you only with national insurance that is only about £70 for 3 month (better check with HMRC for the exact figure). So if you don't have a good enough reason to do a Ltd, start as a self-employed, you can always change to limited company later.


"I will say in advance this is not a great answer, but I had a similar experience when I owned a CIT bond that defaulted. I ended up getting stock plus 5 newly issued bonds as a replacement for my defaulted bond. My broker had no clue on cost basis and didn't even try for the new securities, I called the ""hotline"" setup about CIT default and they knew nothing, and finally I read all the paperwork around the restructuring but it was less than transparent. So in the end I ended up claiming everything as a wash, no gain/no loss - which probably screwed me in the end as I believe I ended up down. It was a very small position for me and was not worth the headache :("


Despite all the extensive benefits of communication and marketing that the internet has brought, it also includes the danger of an easy means of disparaging a company or individual. This is why it is so essential to safeguard your company’s good name as well as reinforce your credibility. How can you do this?


Store cards also tend to have a fairly low credit limit so depending on how much money you spend on the card, your credit utilisation might be a lot higher than desirable.


"This article is written by an idiot!! Risk ≠ failure, risk = possibility of failure Reward (return) should be commensurate with risk and this is why long-shot propositions should be worthwhile. An example of this could be something like the following; an investment with a 95% chance of success should return about 5% on the investment (1 in 20 risk of loss, 1/20th return on investment for taking the risk) while a long-shot investment with a 5% chance of success should be paying a 2000% return (1 in 20 will succeed but they will pay 20 times the investment if they do). An investment with a 0% chance of return (that you are suckered into due to ""opacity"") is not an investment, it is being robbed and it should be illegal. WTF is opacity? Lying?"


While it may look similar income and wealth inequality is not directly related H1 visa. After all, it provides someone from poorer region jobs. It has more to do with technology. Stopping H1B visa won't solve that issue.


Currency hedge means that you are somewhat protected from movements in currency as your investment is in gold not currency. So this then becomes less speculative and concentrates more on your intended investment. EDIT The purpose of the GBSE ETF is aimed for investors living in Europe wanting to invest in USD Gold and not be effected by movements in the EUR/USD. The GBSE ETF aims to hedge against the effects of the currency movements in the EUR/USD and more closely track the USD Gold price. The 3 charts below demonstrate this over the past 5 years. So as is demonstrated the performance of the GBSE ETF closely matches the performance of the USD Gold price rather than the EUR Gold price, meaning someone in Europe can invest in the fund and get the appropriate similar performance as investing directly into the USD Gold without being affected by currency exchange when changing back to EUR. This is by no way speculative as the OP suggests but is in fact serving the purpose as per the ETF details.


"Hey there - thanks for your input. The internet can be a confusing place sometimes, especially when you don't know what to look for. I've subscribed to usenet (for the ""white papers"") but so far to no avail. I'll definitely search for the Moody's paper!"


You say that one property is 65% of the value of the two properties and the other is 35%. But how much of that do the two of you actually own? If you have co-signed mortgages on both properties, then your equity is going to be lower. If you sold both properties, then your take away would be just half of that equity. And while the 35% property may be less valuable, if you bought it first, it may actually have more equity. It's the equity that matters here, not the value of the property. With a mortgage, the bank is more of an owner than you are until you've paid down most of the loan. You may find that the bank won't agree to a single-owner refinance. A co-signed mortgage is a lot easier for them to collect, as they can hold either of you responsible for the entire loan. If you sell the 65% property, then you can pay off any mortgage on that property and use the equity payout from that to buy out your relative on the 35% property. If you currently have no mortgage, you'd even have cash back. This is your fewest strings option. Let's say that you have no mortgage now. So this mortgage would be the only mortgage on the property. It's not so much, as 15:65 is 3:13 or 18.75% of the value of the property. That's more of a home equity loan than a mortgage. You should be able to get a good rate. It might reduce your short term profit, but it should be survivable if you have other income. If you don't have other income, then seriously consider selling the 65% property and diversifying the payout into something else. E.g. stocks and bonds. Perhaps your relative would be willing to float you the loan. That would save you bank fees and closing costs. Write up a contract and agree to take assignment of the title at payoff. You'll need to pay a lawyer to write up the contract (paying a modest amount now to cover the various future possibilities), but that should still be cheaper. There's a certain amount of trust required on both sides, but this gives you some separation. And of course it takes your relative out of the day-to-day management entirely. Perhaps the steady flow of cash would provide what they need. If your relative is willing to remain that involved, that can work. Note that they may not want to do this, so don't get too attached to the idea. Be prepared for a no. This would be a great option for you, as you pretty much get everything you have now. They get back the time meeting with you to make decisions, but they also give up control over those decisions. Some people would not like that tradeoff. The one time I was involved with a professional managing a property for me, the fee was around 7% of the rent. If that fits your area, you might reasonably charge 5%. That gives a discount for family and not being a professional. There's a relatively easy way to find out what fits your area. Look around and see what companies offer multiple listings. Call until you find a couple that will do management for you. Get quotes for managing your properties. Now you'll know the amounts. The big failing though is that this may not describe the issue that your relative has. If the real problem is that the two of you have different approaches to property management, then making you the only decision maker may be the wrong direction. This is certainly financially feasible, but it still may not be the right solution for your relationship. If you get a no on this, I'd recommend moving on to other solutions immediately. This may simply be too favorable to you.


When you start living in US, it doesn't actually matter what was your Credit history in another country. Your Credit History in US is tied to your SSN (Social Security Number), which will be awarded once you are in the country legally and apply for it. Getting an SSN also doesn't guarantee you nothing and you have to build your credit history slowly. Opening a Checking or Savings account will not help you in building a credit history. You need to have some type of Credit Account (credit card, car loan, mortgage etc.) linked to your SSN to start building your credit history. When you are new to US, you probably won't find any bank that will give you a Credit Card as you have no Credit history. One alternative is to apply for a secured credit card. A secured credit card is one you get by putting money or paying money to a bank and open a Credit Card against that money, thereby the bank can be secure that they won't lose any money. Once you have that, you can use that to build up your credit history slowly and once you have a good credit history and score, apply for regular Credit Card or apply for a car loan, mortgage etc. When I came to US 8 years ago, my Credit History was nothing, even though I had pretty good balance and credit history back in my country. I applied for secured credit card by paying $500 to a bank ( which got acquired by CapitalOne ), got it approved and used it for everything, for three years. I applied for other cards in the mean time but got rejected every time. Finally got approved for a regular credit card after three years and in one year added a mortgage and car loan, which helped me to get a decent score now. And Yes, a good Credit Score is important and essential for renting an apartment, leasing a car, getting a Credit Card etc. but normally your employer can always arrange for an apartment given your situation or you need to share apartment with someone else. You can rent a car without and credit score, but need a valid US / International Drivers license and a Credit Card :-) Best option will be to open a secured credit card and start building your credit. When your wife and family arrives, they also will be assigned individual SSN and can start building their credit history themselves. Please keep in mind that Credit Score and Credit History is always individual here...


First, i think you're doing awesomely for your age. Here's what i'd do in your situation (disclaimer: These are just my personal opinions from experience with my own finances.): I'd do all those things and partition the money so that i ensure i do them all. That may mean not dollar cost averaging monthly but rather quarterly to keep fees-percentages down, but i think that's reasonable for your age. Something i don't think you should overlook with regard to your mortgage is the freedom afforded you by paying off a home. It provides you with the freedom to be out of work, between work, or take an extended leave without the fear of how to pay your bills, the mortgage tending to be a significant percentage of the monthly bills. If that's not something you've considered, not a concern, or not something you care about, then paying off your home probably isn't a priority so I'd drop that step and put more money into investments.


the CIA has been meddling in every country's backyard. starting with their first mission after their inception: ruining the Iranian democratically elected government in 1953. quickly followed by funding rebel unreset in Guatemala 1954 in order to replace their democratically elected goverment with another US-puppet. it doesn't end there .. that was just the beginning.


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"To report backdoor Roth IRA contributions in TurboTax, you have to fill in two completely separate places: After you fill out #1, your ""taxes"" will seem to increase, but go back down when you fill out #2, if you fill it out correctly. You have to make sure to answer all the questions literally, in order to correctly calculate the basis from the previous year. Unfortunately, this is one of the things that's easier to do by hand (just filling out Form 8606) than using one of these software products. Backdoor Roth IRA is one of those things ""the average Joe"" doesn't do, so the software product doesn't optimize for it."


You're not clueless at all. You don't mention that you have any debt, but if you have consumer debt, you might want to consider accelerating your payments on those debts unless you're already doing so. You and your wife have a baby on the way. They're an absolute joy (we have a 7-year-old), but they're also a financial strain. If I were in your shoes knowing what I know about your situation, I'd think carefully and go slowly with any investing until after you adjust to a larger family. That way you run less risk of having a sizable investment tank when you really need the money for your new baby. Continue to learn about investing. There's no reason to rush into something you're not comfortable with. If your goal is for a down payment on a house, then continue towards that. Cash is just fine for that. Shop around for a good house from someone who really needs to sell.


We can see that the velocity of money has been in downward trend for decades. For now it's at the historical low and seems to be overlooked by the general public and perhaps academics. What are the implications? Is it a problem?


I noticed a lot more things getting painless with Stata that would have been annoying in ecxel. In stata this could have been one command entered. But I'm sure there are ways to do things more elegantly in excel I just don't know how. Stata was a learning effort of about a week to do what I was doing.


"From what you've described, your spouse is a non-resident alien for US tax purposes. You have two choices: Use the Nonresident Spouse Treated As Resident election and file as Married Filing Jointly. Since your spouse doesn't have, and doesn't currently qualify for, an SSN, he/she will need to apply for an ITIN together with the tax filing. Note that by becoming a resident alien, your spouse's worldwide income the whole year would be subject to US taxes, and would need to be reported on your joint tax filing, though he/she will be able to use the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion to exclude $100k of her foreign earned income, since he/she will have been out of the US for 330 days in a 12-month period. Or, file as Married Filing Separately. You write ""NRA"" for your spouse's SSN on your tax return. As a nonresident alien, if your spouse doesn't have any US income, he/she doesn't have to file a US tax return, and doesn't need to apply for an ITIN. Which one is better is up to you to figure out."


With Apple the money is offshore. That is why they borrow and at now about $100B of debt but have about $250B in the bank offshore. But you do have to be careful because the money offshore is NOT yet taxed and so it is not really a 1:1. With Google it is less than $4B so not really a big deal but can not answer why not just use the onshore cash to pay it off. Google has plenty of money onshore to do this. I believe Apple over the last year had 4% onshore low point and high point was 7%. Google it is 40% or 60%. I know it is 40/60 split but can never remember which way.


Not entirely true and depends who maintains the roads. At the state level, it depends on the state - some fund a large chunk out of gas taxes, some out of vehicle registration fees, and some fund more out of other taxes. Then you get down to the county level, and local level and it's even more varied. Things maintained by the municipal government are often funded more by property tax than by fuel tax. On top of that, there's a large chunk administered at the state and local level, but funded by federal dollars that came from income taxes or sources other than fuel taxes. [if you like sources](http://www.streetsblog.org/2009/11/24/new-report-road-funding-from-non-road-users-doubled-in-25-years/) or [this overview of the state level](http://www.uiowa.edu/~ipro/Papers%202006/roadfunding012307.pdf)


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"The simplest argument for overpayment is this: Let's suppose your fixed rate mortgage has an interest rate of 4.00%. Every £1 you can afford to overpay gives you a guaranteed effective return of 4.00% gross. Yes your monthly mortgage payment will stay the same; however, the proportion of it that's paying off interest every month will be less, and the amount that's actually going into acquiring the bricks and mortar of your home will be greater. So in a sense your returns are ""inverted"" i.e. because every £1 you overpay is £1 you don't need to keep paying 4% a year to continue borrowing. In your case this return will be locked away for a few more years, until you can remortgage the property. However, compared to some other things you could do with your excess £1s, this is a very generous and safe return that is well above the average rate of UK inflation for the past ten years. Let's compare that to some other options for your extra £1s: Cash savings: The most competitive rate I can currently find for instant access is 1.63% from ICICI. If you are prepared to lock your money away until March 2020, Melton Mowbray Building Society has a fixed rate bond that will pay you 2.60% gross. On these accounts you pay income tax at your marginal rate on any interest received. For a basic rate taxpayer that's 20%. If you're a higher rate taxpayer that means 40% of this interest is deducted as tax. In other words: assuming you pay income tax at one of these rates, to get an effective return of 4.00% on cash savings you'd have to find an account paying: Cash ISAs: these accounts are tax sheltered, so the income tax equation isn't an issue. However, the best rate I can find on a 4 year fixed rate cash ISA is 2.35% from Leeds Building Society. As you can see, it's a long way below the returns you can get from overpaying. To find returns such as that you would have to take a lot more risk with your money – for example: Stock market investments: For example, an index fund tracking the FTSE 100 (UK-listed blue chip companies) could have given you a total return of 3.62% over the last 3 years (past performance does not equal future returns). Over a longer time period this return should be better – historical performance suggests somewhere between 5 to 6% is the norm. But take a closer look and you'll see that over the last six months of 2015 this fund had a negative return of 6.11%, i.e. for a time you'd have been losing money. How would you feel about that kind of volatility? In conclusion: I understand your frustration at having locked in to a long term fixed rate (effectively insuring against rates going up), then seeing rates stay low for longer than most commentators thought. However, overpaying your mortgage is one way you can turn this situation into a pretty good deal for yourself – a 4% guaranteed return is one that most cash savers would envy. In response to comments, I've uploaded a spreadsheet that I hope will make the numbers clearer. I've used an example of owing £100k over 25 years at an unvarying 4% interest, and shown the scenarios with and without making a £100/month voluntary overpayment, assuming your lender allows this. Here's the sheet: https://www.scribd.com/doc/294640994/Mortgage-Amortization-Sheet-Mortgage-Overpayment-Comparison After one year you have made £1,200 in overpayments. You now owe £1,222.25 less than if you hadn't overpaid. After five years you owe £6,629 less on your mortgage, having overpaid in £6,000 so far. Should you remortgage at this point that £629 is your return so far, and you also have £6k more equity in the property. If you keep going: After 65 months you are paying more capital than interest out of your monthly payment. This takes until 93 months without overpayments. In total, if you keep up £100/month overpayment, you pay £15,533 less interest overall, and end your mortgage six years early. You can play with the spreadsheet inputs to see the effect of different overpayment amounts. Hope this helps."


Yes, you can make contributions to your HSA for 2013 until April 15, 2014. However, when you make the contribution, you need to explicitly tell the financial institution that your deposit is for tax year 2013, as they will be reporting to the IRS your total 2013 contributions after April 15. If you haven't filed your tax return for 2013 yet, you can wait until you make your final HSA contribution for 2013, and then file (before April 15). Otherwise, if you have already filed for 2013, and you make another HSA contribution for 2013, you'll need to file an amended return in order to claim the additional deduction. One more piece of advice: Don't wait until the last day to make this contribution. Make your final contribution at least a week early. Each year here on the site we get some questions from people who made an HSA or IRA contribution on April 15, only to be told by the bank that they missed some internal bank deadline by a few hours. There is no need to wait until the last day; don't cut it too close.


Credit cards come with an interest-free grace period of ~25 days as long as you pay your balance in full every month. In other words, charges made in January will appear on a bill cut on Jan 31, and due around the 25th of February. If paid in full by 2/25, there's no interest. It is a very good idea to get in the habit of paying off your entire balance every month for this very reason. Don't buy anything you can't afford to pay for at the end of the month when the credit card bill is due. You'll avoid interest charges, build good habits, and improve your credit score. By just paying the minimum amount due, you'll be charged interest from the moment of purchase, and the grace period on new purchases goes away. Credit card companies make the minimum amount due relatively low as a way to encourage you to pay more and more in interest every month. Don't fall for it! Look for a credit card with zero annual fee. Sure, rewards are nice, but it's more important to avoid fees, keep the interest rate low, and get in the habit of paying in full every month, in which case the interest rate won't matter. Your bank or credit union is a good place to start looking.


Does the 457(b) plan allow for the rollover of other retirement funds into it? And do you have very specific reasons for wanting to roll over your SEP-IRA into the 457(b) plan instead of into some other IRA plan with a different custodian? For example, if you already have a Traditional IRA, is there any reason why your SEP-IRA should not be rolled over into the Traditional IRA? With regard to the question about separate accounts, once upon a time, rolling over money from an employment retirement plan (e.g. 401k) into a Traditional IRA required establishing a separate account called a Rollover Traditional IRA so that the rolled-over money (and the earnings thereon) were not commingled with standard traditional IRA money resulting from personal contributions). This was so that the account owner had the option of rolling over the separately kept money into a new employer's retirement plan (if such a rollover was permitted by the new 401k plan). If one did not want to ever roll over money into a new employer plan, one had to write a letter to the custodian telling them that commingling was OK; you never wanted to put that money into another 401k plan. The law changed some time later and the concept of Rollover IRAs holding non-commingled funds has disappeared. With that as prologue, my answer to your question is that perhaps the law did not change with respect to 457(b) plans, and so the money that you want to rollover into the 457(b) plan needs to be kept separate and not commingled with your contributions via payroll deduction to the 457(b) plan (in case you want to ever roll over the SEP-IRA money into another SEP-IRA). Hence, separate accounts are needed: one to hold your SEP-IRA money and one to hold your contributions via payroll deductions.


Before the iPhone, Nokia was worth around 250 BILLION $. That's nearly the same ballpark as Apples current valuation. And it evaporated to less than 8 billion and then to nothing in a few short years. The level of incompetence required at every step of the way to destroy that much capital is quite simply staggering. So many incompetent idiots, stumbling around with no clue what they were doing. Ballmer and Elop get most of the flack, but I'd say the old guard of leaders at Nokia deserve the brunt of the blame.


"According to the following article the answer is ""first-in, first-out"": http://smallbusiness.chron.com/calculate-cost-basis-stock-multiple-purchases-21588.html According to the following article the last answer was just one option an investor can choose: https://www.usaa.com/inet/pages/advice-investing-costbasis?akredirect=true"


> That's almost entirely people under the age of 26 Yup. So again to say ACA hasn't taken effectyet is wrong, and you've yet to show where I am wrong, if you can, go ahead and quote me. > Thanks for playing. Yup, I'm happy to have won.


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"As a BC alum all I can say is....enjoy it! It's an amazing school and the alumni network is incredibly helpful. Make friends, go to Hockey games, have a good time, and take interesting classes outside of CSOM. It's great that you're already so far ahead of the curve in terms of thinking about your future. Just remember: Everyone thinks they will get a 4.0 their first year, but nobody actually does. BC is a semi-target and a lot of my friends got FO summer analyst roles through OCR and were then hired full time. Typically they had 3.6-3.8 GPAs and some extra curriculars. Nobody expects anything freshman year. Even if you ""only"" get a summer internship at some small company helping with the accounting, you will be way ahead. I did a cold calling summer job at a 10 person company and ended up doing Finance anyway. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions about BC or the internship search. Go Eagles!"


Thanks. I'm more shocked than anything, that the majority of people are so strongly opposed to a perfectly reasonable suggestion: that a dubious blog which can't pass the test of basic academic credibility, and outright states it's own methodology is unscientific, cannot be taken as a credible source in an argument. People got unreasonably upset about it and they won't even say why.


">or just plain useless job skills. Not that commenter, but I honestly think the focus of college as jobs only has been one of the biggest downfalls. It's caused a stigma to trade schools and to not going to college. Additionally, for people who are there, the focus on STEM at all costs seems to be leaving us with people who are less able to think critically, analyze information, and write coherently. The former two, at least, are hugely problematic for an informed society. An uninformed (or wrongly informed) society can have tons of negative repercussions. See: current political climate. Also, there have been reports laying out the math that offering ""free"" college would currently be cheaper than the system of loans we have, chasing down defaulters, etc."


"Why should the owners and the leagues do that? I'm no ""FREE MARKET"" loon, but it is the job of the owners and the leagues to get whatever value they can for the tickets or advertising space. If the players bring a huge value to how much advertising they sell or how many people want to go to the games, why should they not be compensated fairly for that?"


The fact that you're a minor really only factors into who pays the taxes, you or your parents. If you are below the age where you can legally earn money (and therefore pay taxes), then the income will be considered your parent's or guardian's income, and they will be responsible for the taxes. If you are of the age where you are legally allowed to earn your own money, then yes, you will have to pay taxes. Either way, taxes must be paid. If age were a way of escaping the taxes, every big youtuber would simply open their account in the name of one of their children or a child they know...