7/23 – 7/27
Stevens Pass 2461.6 to Snoqualmie Pass 2390.6 – 71 miles
Total miles hiked to date: 268
I tend to trust knowledgable people even when I haven’t experienced what they said I will. Yes, this early in the hike it was already starting to happen. I took off from Stevens Pass in yet again, bleak and wet weather, and walked over the ski area and down across the other side into a maze of logging roads and power lines. Until I reached camp on a pass that night I had walked 99% of my time in the woods that day. They told me the trail would be 90% mental and for the first time I was beginning to feel it and ask myself what am I doing here? I love backpacking and being in the wilderness but wasn’t so sure about this long distance trip where making your miles for the day seems to be the top goal. Still, I get up at zero dark thirty, break camp and hit the trail by 7am, sometimes earlier, to hit the trail.
I intended to hike this stretch in 3.5 days. My feet were feeling stronger and I felt I could finally do 20 mile days. Well that didn’t happen. It took 4 days plus a couple of hours because the trail overall was by no means a “cruising” trail. The weather cleared and we went from one extreme condition (wet, cool conditions) to the other (dry, hot conditions). Now I found myself doing long ascents in the blazing hot sun which really slowed me down. Sections of downed trees, especially in an old burn area, were equally slowing.
On the second day I finally meet up with Liam from Scotland. Earlier on the trail I found a very expensive carbon shaft with titanium head ice axe and hauled it out. I learn that it was Liam’s so when I got to Snoqualmie Pass we meet up again and I was able to return it to him. Mystery solved.
On my third day I stopped up high above the Lemah River Valley with great views above a huge burn area. There was a small pond with no name. I noticed I had only done 13 miles that day and it was only 3pm, but it looked like there was potential for a great sunrise reflection shot of the steep mountains around me. So I reminded myself that it wasn’t always about the miles. I stayed. The mosquitoes around that little snow fed pond were Alaska bad but that was OK. I used my head net for the first time this trip!
Up at 5:15am, the first light hits the high peaks in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and I made the shots I was after. And, I still hit the trail by 7am. This would turn out to be my second 19 mile day despite going through some bad deadfall many NOBOs (NOrthBOund hikers) warned me about. The best thing is after another nearly 3000 ascent, the trail stayed high most of the day with fabulous views of the best of the Cascades. Spectacle Lake is forever locked in my mind as a must return to spot. It is only a half mile off the PCT. If you are a photographer, there is much potential here for stunning sunrise and early morning shots of this emerald lake below some of the prettiest peaks I have seen in the Cascades.
I get to a camp above Joe Lake near 7pm exhausted. Ridge Lake is only 2 miles more but another 1000’ climb. I decide to push on so I can see Lauri at Snoqualmie Pass that much sooner the next day. With all the things you think about on this hike, I forgot how close I was to Seattle and how easy it is to buzz up I-90 to the pass and access this very popular wilderness. There were close to 50 people camped on Ridge Lake. This wasn’t exactly a wilderness experience but I didn’t care. I was motivated to get through those last 7 miles for the pass. I find a quiet spot and set up camp for the night.
Next morning, Lauri and I ate at the very PCT hiker friendly Aardvark food cart next to the Chevron Station and hung out with a group of SOBOs at the Drubru Pub that night. It was good to finally see the 4 French SOBOs I met in Stehekin as well as Liam. They are doing well and we will all hit the next 98 mile section to White Pass at various start times Thursday morning.
The next stretch of trail supposedly starts of a bit rocky for about 10 miles and then pretty decent trail the rest of the way. Looking at the trail map elevation changes, it looks like there will be a stretch of the trail where I will be above tree line for awhile. I’m looking forward to hiking in the high country again.