Travels Through Mali, Africa's Cultural Heir to Ancient Empires
TUMI MAKGABO, HOST: A journey across Mali that takes us to some of West Africa's most treasured and historic sites, from the ancient architecture of Jenne to the cliff villages of Bondiagara, we'll tell you why these places are on the United Nations' list of World Heritage Sites. Then we'll look at efforts to preserve relics of an era when Timbuktu was a major Islamic learning center. These stories coming up on the road to Timbuktu. Hello and welcome to this special edition of INSIDE AFRICA from Mali. I'm Tumi Makgabo at the National Museum in the capitol Bamako. The museum is home to centuries of legend and history, but many believe that Mali is the cultural heir to some of Africa's ancient empires. A past the many say symbolizes the greatness of Africa before the Europeans arrived. Relics from that era attract thousands of visitors to Mali every year, all of them hoping to see evidence of Africa's golden past; among them, the legendary Timbuktu.</s>UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Au revoir.</s>UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Au revoir.</s>MAKGABO (voice-over): Two Japanese tourists bidding farewell as they begin a journey across the Niger River; their eventual destination, Timbuktu. It will take them about a week to get to what many here call the City of Legends, but the trip they say is worth it.</s>UNIDENTIFIED MALE: I am interested in the culture in Mali.</s>MAKGABO: Mali is what some call a tourists paradise, a culturally rich country that proudly displays its history as the primary attraction. It is home to major cities of three of Africa's most prominent ancient empires: Ghana, Songhai and Mali. These empires cover much of today's West Africa between 1,000 and 1500 A.D. They were home to some of the earliest established states in history. And today, the United Nations has declared cities that have preserved relics of that era as World Heritage Sites. There's the famous Timbuktu, once the religious and cultural center of the Islamic world. Then there is the city of Jenne, a place famous for maintaining its ancient architecture. The National Museum in Bamako proudly displays artifacts from Mali's past and it's contemporary culture, like this artwork found in what is left of the ancient city of Jenne-jeno, which was abandoned in the 14-century.</s>SAMUEL SIDIBE, DIRECTOR, NATIONAL MUSEUM (through translator): We have things here that go back to the Malian and Songhai Empires. It's a result of intense research from colonial times to now. We are proud that many people visit our country because of our history. And the museum is designed to help them understand our rich history.</s>MAKGABO: And for the thousands who visit the country each year, the city of Mopti is a transit point. It's at the cross route located between the capitol Bamako and several major cities. Known as the Venice of Mali, life here depends on the Niger River, a major attraction to tourists, many of whom choose to enjoy a boat ride before heading off to visit some of the major tourist sites that surround it. (on camera): And that's why we're here, to explore some of those sites. We spent six days traveling across the country. So join us "On the Road to Timbuktu." (voice-over): As the sun rose, we headed for Mali's countryside, beginning a somewhat difficult odyssey across this desert-like country.</s>MAKGABO (on camera): It's about quarter past six in the morning. We've been up since 4:00. Our eventual destination is Timbuktu. What we hope to do over the next four days or so is give you a sense of one of the reasons people believe Mali symbolizes ancient African culture. And hopefully, you'll enjoy the journey along with us. (voice-over): Our first stop "On the Road to Timbuktu" was Jenne, located on an island between the Niger and Bani Rivers. Not much has changed here since the nine-century when it flourished as an Islamic merchant center. It's best known for the brilliance of its mud architecture, prompting the United Nations to declare it a World Heritage Site back in 1988. The most famous building here is the Grand Mosque, the world's largest mud building. It's even more spectacular from the inside.</s>FOURU CISSE, HISTORIAN (through translator): This is the biggest historic site known in Africa and the world. It was built in the 13- century by Jenne's first Islamic ruler. It was rebuilt in 1906. It's all made of wood and clay. The ceiling is maintained by these big, four by four straight columns and there are about 100 of them.</s>MAKGABO: The people of Jenne are proud of their heritage, so they come together at the end of each raining season to restore the mosque, renewing the smooth layer that covers the mud bricks. Beyond the mosque, no one is allowed to construct a building here that's not made of mud.</s>CISSE (through translator): They make all the houses the same to match the mosque, and that makes the town more beautiful.</s>MAKGABO: Well, that's just one example of how time has stood still here.</s>UNIDENTIFIED MALE: There's only one professional that Koranic school can make.</s>MAKGABO: Seven centuries ago, Jenne was known for a multitude of Koranic schools that convened in its narrow allies. Today, they're still here with young children gathering outside the homes some of the city's most prominent religious figures to become experts in the Koran. According to history, Jenne was founded around 800 A.D. by Arab merchants. But the people here are quick to point out that their heritage goes beyond that. Two kilometers from Jenne, you'll find remnants from an ancient town Jenne-jeno that dates back to 250 B.C. It's believed to be the oldest town in sub-Saharan Africa. It was discovered by American archeologists in the late '70s.</s>BOUBACAR DUABI, DJENNE CULTURAL CENTER (through translator): It contradicts the theory that this part of sub-Saharan Africa didn't have commerce until the Arabs arrived. The Arabs came around the 10 and 11- centuries. And this part of Africa already had commerce in the third- century,</s>A.D. MAKGABO: There's not much to see here except for remnants of mud bricks of the buildings or hundreds of pottery shards. But the people of Jenne jealously guard this site, to stop of what's left of it from being exploited by treasure seekers; perhaps evidence of how important the past is to Jenne's future. (on camera): One of the biggest tourists' attractions in the country is Bondiagara Escarpment, and that's where the next leg of our trip took us. (voice-over): A breath taking landscape down a plateau on a narrow road that leads to the village of Telli in what is known here as Dogon country. It's located in the heart of Bondiagara, a three-hour drive from Jenne. (on camera): Well, there are two reasons why we wanted to make sure we stopped in Bondiagara. One of them was to get some sleep and some dinner. The other is right here behind me. It's a village that's literally been built into the side of a mountain. It's all part of Bondiagara Escarpment, which stretches for about 150 kilometers. There are 100 villages stretched out throughout the area, and this one is located approximately 50 meters above the ground. (voice-over): The Cliff Villages, as they're often called, remain a wonder to all who come here. They are both fascinating and beautiful. The front of the cliffs strewn with open caves and tiny houses etched into the rock face. The people who inhabited this area, the Dogons, chose the mountain because of the security it could provide.</s>LASSANA CISSE, BANDIAGARA CULTURE CENTER (through translator): The region was constantly at war. So when the Dogon ancestors fled their original homeland to the west, they chose to live up here hoping that would keep invading armies away.</s>MAKGABO: Many of the Cliff Villages are no longer occupied. In Telli, once most of the people had converted to Islam, they abandoned their mountainside homes for the plains below because many of the practices did not conform to Islamic beliefs. The last dwellers here left the cliff in the '80s. But the houses above says so much about their history and culture, the villagers stayed nearby; and today, proudly display their former homes to the many tourists who visit this area each year. The Dogons did not only lived on the mountainside; they also buried their dead here in the caves about 20 meters above the actual living areas. And although these homes are now all abandoned, the animists in the village below still lay their love ones to rest up in the mountain.</s>CISSE (through translator): They use rope attacked to the cliffs to climb up to the burial site, just like their ancestors did. And this practice is still common in some of the Dogon villages, where they are still are largely animists.</s>MAKGABO: There are other intriguing facts about life in the Cliff Villages. Here, our guide shows us the home of the spiritual leader or Hogon, who was confined to his quarters from the time he was appointed until he died. From here he gave advice and helped cure the sick, although no one, even his family, was allowed to see him. The way of life in many of the new Dogon villages continues to change with time. Here in Telli, for example, there's now also a Catholic Church. So as they past down the oral history of their cliff-dwelling ancestors, they seemed determined to ensure their heritage will stand the test of time. And they welcome all down this narrow path to get a glimpse of a life that was.</s>MAKGABO: Well, it's another early morning for us. It's about 20 past five. We are heading onto a town called Gal. Of course, it will have a grand mosque. But we've also been that as you arrive and drive up to the city, it'll look like heaven. You're looking forward to seeing that one.</s>MAKGABO: The journey to Galle was the best part of this leg of the trip. Enjoying the beautiful African sunrise as the skies cleared and night gave way to day, the surreal beauty of the landscape was revealed. The desert seems to be easing away at this part of Mali, not much to write home about. But overlooking the vast desert land, amazing, naturally shaped rock structures. Perhaps this is the heaven we were promised. We stopped at what is known as Fatima's Hand, with some imagination it does look like a hand. And Malians say it's that of Mohammed's first wife. We cross the Niger River into Galle. The city is barely a reflection of its former self. It was once a thriving town, the capitol of the last great West African Empire, Songhai, in the 15-century. It's most commanding structure is the great mosque and tomb of Askia Mohammed, regarded here as one of the greatest leaders of the Songhai Empire. The structure was declared a World Heritage Site in 2004. We left Galle early the next morning for the final leg of our trip, destination Timbuktu. After an eight-hour drive, mostly on unpaved roads, we reach the banks of the Niger River. An hour-long ferry ride takes us across the river towards Timbuktu. As we drive, the lush greenery near the waters gives way to long stretches of dry, sandy plains. Until finally in the distance, the gate to this ancient city. (on camera): Welcome to Timbuktu, the city of 333 thanks. It's taken us four days to get here, most of them spent on the road. And what an incredible journey it's been. But it's not quite over yet because through these gates lies an impressive collection ancient of manuscripts that are surrounded by centuries of myths and legends. (voice-over): Inside, the street of Timbuktu jostle with donkey carts competing with cars on the roads. The aging mud buildings conceal what could be described as Mali's greatest treasury, its ancient manuscripts handed down from generation to generation. Evidence of what Timbuktu used to be, a great Islamic learning center. There are believed to be several thousand of them in Timbuktu alone. The huge task of preserving them has fallen to the individuals in possession of most of the manuscripts here. They are the curators of numerous private libraries in the city and the descendants of skilled craftsmen of centuries ago. Moctar Sidi Yahia is one of them. He and his brothers run the al Wangari Library. He says their greatest challenge is paying for the preservation of the manuscripts, which he estimates will cost at least $20,000.</s>MOCTAR SIDI YAHIA, LIBRARY CURATOR (through translator): Since the library was created, we have sent letters everywhere in the world. But we have not yet benefited from any financial support.</s>MAKGABO: That has meant no elaborate storage system here, just old trunks stuffed to the brim.</s>YAHIA (through translator): We are preserving them in cases, and often in cases made of iron. We have two warehouses that are not well preserved that we are still managing.</s>MAKGABO: And this is where the government of this already impoverished nation comes in.</s>OULD SIDI, CULTURAL MISSION: The minister in charge of culture is supporting them. They get receipts from -- they get allowed from the Ministry of Culture to open officially their libraries. And when we get opportunities in terms of training, in terms of culture within those manuscripts, we do also -- the Ministry of Culture do help to send them to those meetings.</s>MAKGABO: For some libraries in the city, the help has been welcomed. Curators at this library have used the knowledge and external funding they receive to protect and secure their extensive collection. A deterrent to one of their biggest threat, theft. Sometimes sold for just a few dollars on the black market, the manuscript can sometimes fetch thousands in Europe and America. Other obstacles include the heat, dust and sand from the ever- encroaching Sahara Desert that leave the pages brittle. The frequent power failures and unreliable generators in Timbuktu render climate-controlled rooms almost obsolete. But help is on the way. The South African government is working with Mali on a trust fund for the cause that would allow the people of Timbuktu to preserve the pages of their history for generations to come. As the people of this mystical city grapple with saving the manuscripts that embody their heritage, the struggle for survival continues. The golden years when trade was brisk and scholars came from far and wide are long gone. But visitors are still drawn here. (on camera): It is these narrow allies filled with centuries of legends and myths that tourists travel thousands of miles to see. In fact, authorities here in Timbuktu estimate that they receive about 15,000 visitors a year. That's not a lot when you consider the history of Timbuktu. But partly to blame for that is its remote location. Now, there are three ways for you to get here. And most people choose the easiest option. That is flying. You could also arrive by boat on the Niger River. Or you could do what we did and drive. (voice-over): When you get to the city there are plenty of sites to see, and the history is almost tangible.</s>BETHANY EBERLEN, TOURIST: I'm so surprised of its deep history that's been touched by so many cultures and colonizations. But it's fascinating. You can sort of get lost in the maze of streets here in the old city.</s>MAKGABO: But before any of these structures were built, Timbuktu was only a transit point for the nomadic Taureg people, a place to rest and drink water from the well during a long journey. "Tim," in the local language means "well." And "Buktu?"</s>O. SIDI: Was a lady in charge of nomad's luggages. When nomads were moving they left the luggages with that lady.</s>MAKGABO: The city's close proximity to the Niger River meant that before long salt caravans, like this one from the Sahara Desert, were passing through. The salt traded for gold and slaves. As a trading center that also attracted religious scholars and academics, the city became an integral part of the Mali and Songhai Empires until an invasion by Morocco in the late 16-century. But the today, the economy is all about tourism.</s>THOMAS EBERLEN, TOURIST: I'm amazed about finally after a long trip arriving in this place. And then finding just something like manuscripts and little old stuff that you wouldn't expect here right out in the desert. It's amazing the co-existence, the Songhai's and the people; it's quite a place to come to.</s>MAKGABO: In the artisans' house on one of the main streets, you'll find everything from jewelry to fabric, shoes and bags all handmade. And there is always someone waiting eagerly to accept some of your tourist dollars or euros in exchange. And so Timbuktu continues to survive, a haven in the middle of the desert.</s>MAKGABO: Welcome back to INSIDE AFRICA from Mali. Our journey across the country has taken us to Jenne, Bondiagara, Galle and Timbuktu. And all along the way we found that people here are very proud of their heritage. Malians believe that their rich past has a lot to offer. And one person who has taken a leading role in promoting that, in fact, many Malians say he is their cultural ambassador, is Salif Keita.</s>PAUL TILSLEY, CNN CORRESPONDENT (voice-over): The Manse of Mali, Africa's Golden Voice, Salif Keita arriving for the recent Kora All African Awards. Everywhere he goes, Keita is a man on a mission, an unofficial cultural ambassador for his country. Here he tells one radio interviewer he believes it's his duty, his calling in life to promote his country's culture.</s>SALIF KIETA, MALIAN MUSICIAN: Yes. It's like that. I think it's mine. I must do it. I have to do it.</s>TILSLEY: sitting down with CNN, Keita says he's so passionate about his country that he has come back to Mali to live. After two decades in musical exile in Paris, he is happy to come home. "Mali is a rich country," he says, "rich in culture, rich socially where there is tranquility, where there is peace and natural beauty. Indeed an ancient cultural, which is beautiful. Everything about my music is Malian," Keita tells me. "The rhythm, the melody, even the lyrics." He admits to incorporating Western musical styles, only if they can strengthen the message, which is essentially Malian. "Our patron is culture. When I'm performing in another country," Keita says, "I think of Mali all the time. I love Mali." "Our country doesn't have an ocean coastline. But our ocean is our social lifestyle, our ideology, our thoughts. The originality of our culture makes it a paradise." "I think it is Mali's time now," he says. "Times were hard but now we have a good democracy. There are enough intelligent and responsible people running our land. Now Mali is a safe country. People are happy in Mali. I love the idea of staying, of living in Mali." Between performances at the Koras, Keita pushed forward with his plans for closer cultural links between Mali and South Africa, claiming that music can provide the key to create a bridge between the two countries. Leaving us for such diplomatic work, it's perhaps no coincidence that Salif Keita leads a musical band called in English, The Ambassadors. Paul Tilsley, INSIDE African, Johannesburg.</s>MAKGABO: Salif Keita on his mission to spread Mali's culture through music. That's our look INSIDE AFRICA for this week. Now, if you'd like to send us your thoughts or comments on the program, mail them to insideafrica@cnn.com. And if you'd like to go online to read up a little bit more on Mali or Salif Keita, log onto cnn.com/insideafrica. In Bamako, Mali, I'm Tumi Makgabo. Thanks for watching. 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