This paper applies the mathematics of chaos to the task of designing indoor rock-climbing routes. Chaotic variation has been used to great advantage on music and dance, but the challenges here are quite different, beginning with the representation. We present a formalized system for transcribing rock climbing problems and then describe a variation generator that is designed to support human route-setters in designing new and interesting climbing problems. This variation generator, termed strange beta, uses chaos to introduce novelty. We validated this approach with a large blinded study in a commercial climbing gym, in cooperation with experienced climbers and expert route setters. The results show that strange beta can help a human setter produce routes that are at least as good as, and in some cases better than, those produced in the traditional manner.
@cite_19: Models of music composition implemented on computer as generative algorithms are examined from a historical viewpoint. Correlations between chaos theory and music are described and serve as the basis for the computer program CHAOTICS, a set of modules which serve as tools for composition. The relationship between composer and computer is seen in terms of a feedback loop.
As mentioned above, the use of computers in creative tasks---for independent generation and or in assistance roles---is not a new idea. Computation has a particularly rich history in music composition, in both generative and assistant roles @cite_19 . Route setting for indoor climbing is viewed by its practitioners as a creative task on par with music composition, requiring substantial expertise in order to create routes that are both of an appropriate difficulty and interesting to climb. A climbing route is a prescribed sequence of dynamic movements: a sequence of symbols from a complex language not unlike a dance or a tonal music composition, both of which can also be viewed as symbol sequences. All three of these domains---climbing, music, and dance---have strong notions of style,'' but that notion is very hard to formalize, even for experienced practitioners.