Depending upon the type of trim you have, you might be able to remove it with a hammer and screwdriver. Set the trim aside to reinstall after the slate tile is finished.;
, Be sure to remove all the tacks and nails that stick out of the subflooring.
 If you have a cement floor, use a leveling compound to improve the surface. If you have a wood floor, secure loose boards so that they will not squeak.If your wood subfloor is thinner than one and one-fourth-inch (0.6-cm), install a second layer of five-eighths-inch (1.6-cm) plywood or cement board to ensure the slate has a stable foundation.
Screw these sheets into the subfloor every eight inches (20.3 cm).
 A cement floor can be cleaned with tri-sodium phosphate (TSP). A wooden floor can be vacuumed extensively.
 Paint an anti-fracture membrane onto cement subfloor. You can paint or roll it on., Write down the length and width of the tile.
, You can find a construction calculator easily online.
 Ask how long shipment will take so that you can schedule a day to install it. In 2014, estimates for slate flooring for a 100 square foot (30.5 m) area were between $250 and $400.


Without labor, other materials and equipment rentals can result in a cost of $400 to $850 per 100 square foot room.You may want to order five percent more tile in case of breakage.
 If you want very fine grout line, you can place your tiles side by side.
 You will need a trowel with quarter-inch (0.6-cm) notches.
 Reorder tile before you start your project, so that you can ensure you have enough tile to complete the flooring.
 Some tiles are thicker than others and surrounding tiles will need to be built up with adhesive to ensure a flat surface.
 Since slate tiles can vary slightly in size, it is important to do a dry run with your tiles so you know where to adjust the surface level and position of your tiles.
 Draw an “x” through the room with chalk. When the lines cross they will create a 90-degree angle on which you can check for even spacing.
 Use tile spacers during the dry run to ensure you have even spacing.
 If you do, you will want to reposition your layout, so that cut tiles of even width can be laid at either end. This will result in a symmetrical floor.
 Measure the tile to account for a one-eighth-inch (0.3-cm) grout space along the wall. You can cut slate tile with a diamond-blade wet saw, grinder or hacksaw with an abrasive blade.
 Place a line of chalk on them during your dry run, so that you can make this important change when you lay your mortar.
 Start with the section farthest from the door.
 You can use slate tile adhesive or thinset (Portland cement) mortar mixed with acrylic. Mix it well and set it nearby.


Consider purchasing a mixing attachment to use with your power drill. It will mix the thinset more thoroughly than hand mixing.
, Place a generous amount of mortar down within a section of your chalk line. Smooth it out with the smooth edge of the trowel until it covers the area.
 Always groove the thinset in the same direction.
 You will move toward the wall. Setting spacers between the tiles at either end of the tile.
 This is called “back-buttering.”Use a carpenter’s level to make sure each slate is level.


Press down on the tiles with your hand to ensure it is properly adhered.
 Scrape extra mortar from the edges with a margin trowel.
 Remove the layout, mortar the area and set the tile. Take your time to create an evenly spaced, level floor.
,, Spread one pint of grout over the tiles.
 Hold the float at a 45-degree angle and wipe the grout into the joints over and over until they are adequately covered.
 Change the water in your bucket frequently so that you can wipe the tile clean.
 Run the tool over all the lines using equal pressure.
 Remove dust particles and apply water-based, low-sheen slate sealer with a paintbrush. Apply a second coat after it has dried.


Wait 24 to 48 hours for the sealer to cure.
If you don’t want to seal the slate tiles themselves, you can seal the grout with a tile sealant. Paint it on with a one-half inch (1.3-cm) paintbrush.
Remove the baseboard trim around the area you want to cover with slate tile.
Remove the carpet, laminate or other flooring that is over the area.
Check that your subfloor is level.
Clean the floor as well as you can.
Paint a coat of polyurethane on top of plywood subfloor to prevent water damage.
Research and find the slate tile you want to use.
Measure the length and width of each room you want to tile.

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Use a construction calculator to find out how much tile you will need.
Order the tile.
Purchase a large bag of quarter-inch (0.6-cm) spacers so that you can keep your slate tile evenly spaced and grouted.
Buy your grouting equipment and mortar.
Remove all the tiles and check for surface damage before you get started.
Sort your tile according to color variation and thickness.
Sketch a layout for the color scheme of the slate.
Measure lines through the width and length of the room.
Lay out your tile to figure out the best use of color.
Decide if you will need to cut tile at the edges of the room.
Cut tiles to fit around the edges of the room.
Mark tiles that require extra thinset on the back to create an even surface.
Remove a quarter of the room’s layout so that you can start installing the tile.
Choose the mortar you want to use.
Ready a bucket of water and a sponge, so that you can remove excess mortar from the tiles when necessary.

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Apply your thinset or adhesive to a two by three foot (0.6 by 0.9 m) area.
Run the grooved edge of the towel in a single direction across the three-foot (0.6-m) area.
Place the first tile down on the intersection of your chalk lines.
Remember to build up thinner tiles with thicker coatings of mortar.
Use your damp sponge to remove thinset that drops onto the tile before it dries.
Set nine tiles at a time and then move on to a new section.
Leave the finished slate to set for 24 hours before you grout.

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Remove the spacers tile-by-tile just before you grout your tiles.

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Purchase sanded grout.
Work the grout into the joints using a sponge float.
Finish an area and remove excess grout with a damp sponge.
Run a grouting tool over the joints to make them more even.
Consider sealing your slate after 30 days of curing.
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