Also review your homeowners association covenants, if applicable.


Observe the following regulations for fences:

required setback from your property boundary
maximum height
obstruction of sight on thoroughfares
zoning restrictions


These may vary for the particular fence type, so it is best to contact your local building inspection department and your homeowner's association before you finalize your plans.
If you are not absolutely sure where the property line is located, it is prudent to have a site survey done before you layout the fence line(s). You might also want to check with your neighbors to make sure that they are okay with the particular fence you plan to install.;
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You might need a local building permit, so check with local authorities before starting your project.
You may be required to get a COA (Certificate of Appropriateness) in historic districts. This type of fence will, typically, not fall within the guidelines for a historic district, though.
 Call a local locator service if you are not absolutely certain that there are no underground utilities crossing your proposed fence line(s) or if you do not know their location(s).



Sketch a site diagram if necessary. Include the structures, trees, underground utilities and any potential obstructions.
Make sure to consider the terrain and any large trees or obstructions. Either go beside the obstructions or plan to remove them. Plan to step-down and step-up the slopes-- each fence section will be level, with the top edge of the panel horizontal.
, Drive pegs into the ground at either end of the proposed fence line(s). Run a mason's line to ensure the fence is perfectly straight. The line gives you a guide as you set your fence posts and erect the panels.
 Follow the spacing recommended by the manufacturer of your fence.
 Use a post hole digger, auger or a double ended shovel. Depending on the soil type, you may have to dig the hole shallower or deeper. A good rule of thumb is to dig each hole 600mm (two feet) deep.
 Make sure they are plumb and in-line, then provision temporary bracing to keep them in position as you dry fit the fence.
 Use two or three panels held in place with temporary fasteners (removable clamps). As you work your way along the fence line(s), prepare the grade, excavating and filling as needed. When you are satisfied with the grading, double check by going through the dry fitting process a second time.
 While maintaining plumb, drive the posts to the appropriate depth using a specialty post driving tool (available at hardware stores and home improvement centers) or use a block and sledgehammer. You will want to set the posts so that the height is just right for your panel. Remember, too, that each post will need to be capped, so the posts can be just a tad higher than the fence sections to allow for the cap. Alternatively, the caps can be put on before the panels are secured to the posts and rails.


Another option is to set the posts a bit high and plan to cut the top off of each post.
, If you are using Portland cement, you will also need sand and aggregate (most often medium size gravel).
 Stop at least one inch below ground level.
 The curing time will depend on the particular mix and on the dampness of the ground. One day should be adequate, but allow two or more days if it fits your schedule.
, For an ordinary fence 48" to 60" tall, a bottom rail 6 inches (15.2 cm) from the panel bottom and a top rail 4 inches (10.2 cm) from the panel top is sufficient. For taller fences, an intermediate rail is needed, centered between the top and bottom rails.
 You can fasten these with No. 12 self-drilling screws or 1/4" bolts with nuts and lock washers.
, Ensure that they are plumb and level or sloping uniformly to match the existing grade. Some types of metal panel fencing is designed to overlap, while other panels are installed with spacers, and yet another type has narrow vertical panels staggered on opposite side of the rails.
 This will not be necessary if you set your posts to the proper depth before you poured the concrete.
 Tap the caps into place using a hammer and wooden block to prevent damaging their coating/paint.
 Recycle or reuse excess material.
 It is best to keep plantings away from the fence as they tend get larger and will hinder fence maintenance.
Check the local regulations or ordinances governing fence building at your location.
Get the required permits.
Locate all underground utilities.
Layout the fence line(s).
Clear the fence line of trees, shrubs and vines.

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Mark the fence line(s) on the property.
Mark where you would like to dig your holes.
Dig the holes for the fence posts.
Place your posts (upright) in the holes.
Dry fit the panels.
Set your post to the proper height.
Replumb the posts and secure them to the temporary bracing.

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Mix the concrete according to the instructions on the bag.
Pour the cement into the holes.
Allow the concrete to set.
Screw on your rails, making sure they are level, or in the event you are following a sloping grade, keep the same height.

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Space your rails according to the fence manufacturer's recommendations.
Lap or butt the rails together on the post, depending on the rail design.
Install the caps prior to securing the panels if you have decided to leave the posts shorter than the panels.

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Screw on the steel panels.
Cut off the top of the posts.
Install the caps (if you haven't already).
Clean up the site and tools, then put away your tools.
Perform any grounds keeping and landscaping.
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