Beech isn’t too fussy about location and will tolerate both sun and partial shade as well as windy locations. Beech will thrive in either acid or alkaline soil.The only thing you should really avoid when picking out a spot to plant your hedge is soil that has a lot of clay in it, or that often gets soggy (be it from a sprinkler or a downward slope that makes water collect in that area).;
, If you are not sure what type of soil is located in the area where you hope to plant your hedge, try giving a handful of moist earth a squeeze in your hand. If it tends to clump together rather than crumble, it’s probably got clay in it. If your soil has high amounts of clay, you’ll find that it gets really hard when it dries out, and may even form cracks on the surface.


If you have these conditions, Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) may be a good substitute for beech.
 You should prepare the ground at least one season ahead of planting, ideally in the spring or summer. When you come to plant the hedge in winter, the ground will be much harder to work than it is in the warmer, drier months. Use a spade to turn the soil over to help improve drainage. You can also add a soil improver, such as well-rotted horse manure or spent mushroom compost.Fresh horse manure can ‘burn’ young saplings so don’t use it immediately before planting. Part of the reason for preparing your site this early is so the manure can rot down in the soil, becoming helpful for the plant rather than harmful.
You can also purchase prepared soil improvers from your local garden supply store.
 Consider getting a weed killer to deal with the problem for you—just make sure that it is a substance that neutralizes itself when it comes into contact with the ground (this way it won’t harm your plant).


If you start preparing the ground a year before you plan to plant your hedge, you can also use special weed control fabric or big sheets of cardboard. Place these sheets over the area where you will plan to have your hedge. Weigh them down with rocks and other heavy objects. The fabric or cardboard will keep light from reaching the soil, so no weeds will be able to grow in that spot.
 Saplings are sold either as bare-root plants, which are cheapest, or as potted plants, which are bulkier to store, heavier to move and more expensive to buy. Both work equally well but bare-root plants will need planting quickly after delivery. Plants supplied in pots are more forgiving if you make them wait a while.


If you aren’t able to plant your entire hedge within a short period of time, such as a day or weekend, consider potted plants., Saplings for hedge planting are often called ‘whips’ and are usually about 60 centimeter (23.6 in) tall. Don’t be dismayed if bare root plants arrive looking like dead sticks—later in the year they’ll burst into leaf.
 When your bare root plants arrive, check them briefly to make sure they are undamaged at the point of delivery. If the wrapping material has dried out, water it and then store the plants still in their packaging. If you obtained pot plants, just keep the soil moist until they are planted. Young vulnerable pot plants may prefer a sheltered spot to avoid wind damage.


Bare root plants should be stored in temperatures just above freezing and the root casings should not be allowed to dry out. Avoid keeping them in a heated area such as in your home. An unheated shed is probably best.
 Ideally plant on a calm or cloudy day so that your plants don’t have to cope with wind and the drying conditions of wind and sun. Wait until the soil isn’t frozen solid or waterlogged before you start planting.


You should plant your saplings in late winter or early spring for the best results.
 It’s common to plant smaller plants at a higher density than more mature ones. This is because younger plants are more vulnerable to failure than older ones. To achieve a good density of hedge, plant your saplings in a staggered double row. If your saplings are bare-root, it’s best to plant at a density of between 3 to 7 plants per meter.For a hedge that becomes dense even more quickly, plant a staggered double row of between 5 to 7 plants per meter.
Although plants do need space, there will inevitably be some failures leading to gaps, so it’s usually best to plant at fairly high density if you have an adequate number of saplings to do so.
 For pot-grown plants supplied in soil, the best density really depends on the size of the plant. Check the plant label for the supplier’s advice but it’s usually best to aim for density of between 4 to 6 plants per meter.


If you’re planting in a single line, aim for 4 plants per meter.
If planting in a staggered double row as is advised, aim for 6 plants per meter.
 The plant will appreciate a few hours root soaking in a bucket before you begin. Don’t leave them in water overnight though as their roots could get soggy and start to rot.To minimize the amount of time your roots are exposed to the air, let the plant’s roots continue to soak in the water until the very moment you are ready to put them in the ground.
 Remove each plant from the bucket and remove any broken or twisted roots using pruning shears or a sharp garden knife that gives a clean cut.


Don’t remove any more root than is absolutely necessary.
 Create a little mound of soil at the center of each hole and plant your sapling at the top with the roots draped around it. Be careful not to bend or force the roots into unnatural shapes and positions or they could become damaged.


The first root should be just below the soil’s surface. You shouldn’t be able to see any roots above the soil line.
 Fill the hole with soil and press lightly on the topsoil to firm it down. Immediately water each sapling as you plant it. Watering the plant right away will help to settle the soil and remove any air bubbles that could have been trapped under the soil when you filled in the hole.
 The mulch will help your plants to stay warm, retain water, and fight off weeds. You don’t necessarily need to use store-bought mulch; you can use things just as effectively.These home-grown mulches include:


Grass clippings.
Well-rotted manure.
Leaf litter.
Bark chips.
 You can protect your plants from wind and wildlife by setting up protective sleeves or guards around your plants. One of the most commonly used protective sleeves are spiral plastic tree guards that expand as the tree grows.
 The most common cause of young plant failure is a lack of water, so you may need to water your hedge regularly for the first two years of its life.


However, be sure to only water it when the ground is dry around the base of the plant, as having to ‘hunt’ for water at a deeper level of ground helps the plant develop sturdy roots.
Pay particular attention to your plant’s water needs if its first summer in your yard is a hot and dry one. It will need more water than normal.
 Your beech hedge will look tidier and grow thicker if you prune the plant in the end of summer or early autumn. Autumn is the best time because you will be able to avoid disturbing nesting birds because your hedge plants will be dormant and will lack leaves. Don’t be afraid to cut the hedge back fairly hard as this will help it grow thick and dense.


For the first two years, prune the beech plants by using plant clippers to cut back the longer shoots and cutting off the tips of shorter ones. This will help the plant grow thicker and denser.
From three years and up, trim the sides of the hedge. You will want to trim the plant into the shape of an ‘A’ with a flat top so that light can reach all of the parts of the hedge equally. Try to keep the base of the hedge at about 3 ¼ feet (1 m) at the base, and then thin as you go up to your desired plant height., While this may sound odd, plants can use an annual boost of nutrients to ensure that they grow up strong and healthy. You can scatter plant feed pellets on the soil around your hedge and use a rake to gently work them into the soil.


Alternately, you can use a water-soluble feed purchased at a garden supply store.
 Your hedge may be at risk of getting eaten or choked out by weeds, particularly when the hedge is new. If you are concerned about animals eating your hedge before it is established, consider putting a fence around it. To protect your heads against weeds, you can lay down weed-proof matting underneath you hedge to suppress weed growth. You can purchase both fencing and matting at a garden store. To make your own weed-proof matting:


Lay down pieces of newspaper under your hedge. Cover the newspaper with wood chips. The layers of newspaper and wood chips will keep light from reaching the weeds that want to grow, effectively suppressing the weeds.
 After your hedge has become established, you can let it mulch itself. Each season your hedge will drop leaves. Let the leaves remain under the hedge because they will act as a mulch by suppressing weed growth.


If you want to keep the area looking tidy, sweep up the leaves around the hedge, but the let the leaves that fall under the hedge remain where they are.
Pick a spot to plant your beech hedge.
Check to see if your soil has clay in it.
Prepare the ground where you will be planting your beech.
Remove any weeds growing in the spot where you plan to plant your beech.
Choose between bare-root saplings or potted saplings.
Be prepared for your saplings to look a bit dead.
Take care of the saplings until you are ready to plant them.
Plant your saplings on a calm day.
Plan out how close together you will plant your bare-root saplings.
Give potted saplings a bit more space when you plant them.
Soak each plant’s roots in water before you begin planting.
Clean up the roots before putting them in the ground.
Make a wide and shallow hole for each sapling.
Fill each hole and water each plant.
Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of each plant.
Set up a support system for your plants.
Water your plants to help them grow during their first two years as a hedge.
Prune your hedge every year.
Feed your plant annually.
Protect your hedge against wildlife and weeds.
Leave leaf litter under your hedge.
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