Before purchasing your wax, consider what kind of temperatures you will be skiing in. If you can't predict the temperature of the slopes you're headed for, or the area you will be skiing in has a wide variety of temperatures, use an all-temp wax. Otherwise, consider getting temperature-specific wax that corresponds to the temperatures you'll be skiing in.Most entry level waxes are hydrocarbon wax. Fluorocarbon wax is another option, which will give you better performance and speed, but comes with an increase in price.;
, Make sure it is a flat, well lit, and well ventilated workspace. If you don't want hot wax dripping on the surface it's on, lay down some newspaper or plastic sheeting first. Use either a vice or heavy wooden blocks to hold down the tail and tip of your ski, so it doesn't move while you work.









If your skis have breaks, you'll need to get them out of the way. Do this by retracting them with your hands and then wrapping a strong rubber band around them and the tail piece, to keep them in place at the base.
 Base cleaner removes dirt, dust, and old wax. Apply it to a towel or cloth and wipe the length of the ski until the whole surface is covered.









Don't go overboard with the base cleaner. You don't want to wax your skis until they're completely dry, so just a small splash of cleaner will do.
 Remember not to touch them, or wipe them down. Once they're dry, if your skis look particularly smooth, you can use a brass brush to create a slightly rougher surface. This will allow the skis to absorb the wax more efficiently. Just brush with a brass brush using moderate pressure.
 Hold the hot iron above the ski with the tip pointing down, and touch the wax until it melts, and drips onto the skis. Drip a line or two of wax along the length of the ski. You can use any iron for this, but be warned that some wax will stick to the iron, so don't use an iron that you intend to later use for clothes.









You can also buy wax-specific irons that have the advantage of being more consistent with their temperature.
It's important to be wary of making your iron too hot, as wax that is too hot can damage your board. For most conventional irons, the appropriate temperature is somewhere between the lower end of the "wool" setting and the higher end of the "synthetics" setting.
 Use the iron and gently move up and down along the length of the ski, making sure to spread the wax until it coats the entire surface. Always keep your iron moving as to prevent overheating an area of the ski.
 Keep going until the entire surface has been covered by a thin layer. If there's an area with no wax, you can apply the wax to the iron quickly and touch the iron to that area.
 Let your ski sit in room temperature until it is completely cool to the touch. This usually takes around 30 minutes. Err on the side of caution and don't rush to the next step too quickly., Wax works best as a thin sheen, not a thick layer. Use a wax scraper, or thin plastic edge to remove excess wax. Make sure it is not metal, and that it will not cut into the ski. Angle the scraper in the direction that you're scraping and push it from tip to tail.









Remember to file your scraper regularly to keep it sharp
Scrape all the wax off the edges of the ski as well.
 Brushing will remove even more wax, leaving you with a ski that has just a fine layer of wax in the pores of the base. Use a soft nylon brush or a fine horsehair brush, or both, to brush your ski. Brush from the tip to the tail for five to ten minutes.If you're expecting wet snow, use a nylon brush, as wet snow skiing is improved by a more varied base structure. If you're expecting dry snow, use a fine horsehair brush, as wet snow skiing is improved by finer, smoother base structure.
Choose your wax.
Lay your skis out.
Apply base cleaner.
Let the skis air dry and brush.
Melt the wax.
Allow dripped wax to cover a majority of the surface.
Apply more wax where needed.
Let the ski cool.
Scrap off excess wax.
Brush your ski.
{"src": "wikihow-all_validation", "title": "How to Wax Skis1"}