Immersed in his Burgundian admiration, Andries Burger, the winemaker of Paul Clüver Family Wines in Elgin, garnered a newfound reverence for the vignerons of the illustrious French wine region. This enlightenment unfolded against the backdrop of the formidable weather challenges that Paul Clüver Family Wines confronted during the course of vintage 2023. Burger underscores this sentiment, elucidating, “Burgundy’s legacy is steeped in the pronounced fluctuations from one vintage to another, a result of the capricious weather patterns that annually unfurl in that renowned terroir. This year, the unanticipated summer rain that swept through Elgin and the broader Cape, an anomaly in our sun-drenched climate, offered me tangible insights into the ever-shifting climatic trials endured by Burgundy’s harvest.”
Following a parched winter and growing season on Paul Clüver Estate in 2022, the vineyards embarked on the new season with synchronized bud-break, flowering, and veraison, particularly evident in the estate’s hallmark Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines.
“As the coolest wine-producing region in South Africa, characterized by dramatic diurnal temperature variations, our vines flourished in robust health, untouched by disease. They embarked on a trajectory of even ripening stages, portending yet another vintage of excellence,” conveys Burger. “The well-timed 87mm of rainfall in December invigorated the vines during their crucial growth phase, further cooling the earth and air. Our rigorous preventative spraying protocols successfully warded off any potential diseases, and optimism was high.”
The grape harvest at Paul Clüver Family Wines commenced in mid-February, slightly earlier than the previous year. The initial batches of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay unveiled the quintessential Elgin attributes: crisp acids, impeccable ripeness, and the Pinot Noir’s transformation to a deep garnet hue during fermentation.
Approximately halfway through the harvest, the heavens opened in early March, delivering 43mm of rain over three days and necessitating a temporary pause in picking. “Fortunately, the rain did not precipitate any major vineyard damage, as the clusters remained resilient while awaiting recommencement of harvesting. Once the rain abated and picking resumed, we observed that both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir had reached maturity, albeit with slightly lower sugar levels than the norm,” notes Burger.
Despite average sugar levels ranging from 21.5°B to 22.5°B, the fermenting grapes and nascent wines exhibited remarkable aromas. “Curiously, the lower sugar content seemed to intensify the fruit’s multifaceted expression,” Burger muses. “The wines showcase pronounced varietal character, vivid flavor profiles, and the hallmark elegance of our Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, now enriched by an assertive backbone and palpable structure.”
As the prospect of further March rainfall loomed, Burger and his team expedited the harvesting of the Paul Clüver vineyards to circumvent the torrential rains that drenched the region in the week of March 20, bringing over 80mm of precipitation.
“Thankfully, we had wrapped up operations by then,” affirms Burger. “The subsequent batches harvested post the initial March rains affirmed the correctness of our swift action. Meticulously selecting the fruit by hand allowed us to discard any subpar berries, aligning with our unwavering commitment to stringent quality control.”
Amid the ongoing spontaneous fermentation and the maturation of young wines in various vessels, including tanks, foudres, barrels, and concrete eggs, the anticipation of an exceptional wine quality vintage at Paul Clüver Family Wines is palpable. Burger, candid in his assessment, admits, “I cannot deny that this harvest presented its fair share of challenges, especially considering the curveballs hurled by the mercurial summer rains. The process was demanding and at times nerve-wracking, underscoring the pivotal role of timing and decision-making in this pivotal juncture of winemaking.”
Burger goes on to spotlight an intriguing observation in the Paul Clüver vineyards: a surge in avian activity. “Our commitment to regenerative farming practices has fostered a biodiverse ecosystem in the vineyards, teeming with vibrant life,” he remarks. “Birds have become a noticeable presence, flocking from near and far to indulge in the succulent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. Consequently, we’ve taken to draping the vines with nets to thwart their attempts at pecking.”
Regarding the yields for the current year on Paul Clüver Family Wines, there’s a slight diminution in tonnage. Given the formidable wet conditions, this aligns seamlessly with the wine volumes sought to be produced from an extraordinary vintage.