Any usable libs to build and visualise SOM in python? I tried SOMpy, though it is very crude now and works only with oldest versions of matplotlib. 
Is there any fancy lib that can build SOM based on array and visualize it in Python?
You could have a try on this package.
There is a working example on this page.
If what you are interested is the Manifold learning,
you could also apply many packages from sklearn.