Register Page Themeing I just found out the template for themeing the register page is page-user-register.tpl.php. 

But, how do I change the labels on the textfields etc?

For instance, I want to rename the E-Mail label to ... somethingelse :-)
Here is a good tutorial to change all the user pages.  http://drupal.org/node/350634.   For E-Mail edit the $variable['form']['x']