Washer/Dryer cases electrically charged
Assuming you are in the USA:

1: First you need to find out if your Dryer Outlet is a 3 Wire type or a 4 wire type!

If it has 3 wires - you will have a hot a neutral and a Hot - that is it. Check inside the box to be sure - DO NOT GO BY THE OUTLET BOX TYPE. People do crazy things - VERIFY IT PHYSICALLY (open it up and look at it) and ELECTRICALLY - measure it.

2: Find out if you are running 208VAC or 230VAC to that DRYER. Depending on if you are in an Apartment or in a House - determines this. 
While this should not be a pop issue - it will change the performance of the dryer although running a 208V dryer on a 230 Volt circuit can present some problems (your dryer manual should specify). When Vice versa - there is no real issue.

3: Given that you have a tingling on your washing machine - is it when you touch between washer and dryer or just touching the washing machine?

4: When I used my multimeter to test ground-to-hot [G-H of WHAT ?? and where the OUTLET or on the washer / dryer ??] I was only getting 8v. [ You have something not right - G-H = 110/120VAC, ] [ Ground to Neutral - if this reads 8V - something is not right here because that should be less than 1 vac], Neutral - Hot = 110/120VAC.

While the below images show how to connect a range they go for dryers as well - just refer to your owners manual for correct details.
You will notice the Ground to Neutral Strap on the 3 Wire Hook up - it is not there in a 4 wire connection scenario. 

[This is why the case can become powered in a 3 wire arrangement -  and why they moved away from this to a 4 wire arrangement a real ground.]