voltage draw differences on GE Spectra electric range/oven
That would require way more smarts than the current mains electrical system has.  Mains electrical is a constant-voltage system (as opposed to a constant-current system like you find inside a fluorescent ballast).  Mains will be 240V at all times. 

Most stoves work by either switching 240V on and off, or doing some wave-shaping tricks that chop off part of the 240V waveform.  At less than 50% chop, peak voltage will be somewhat less than 240V, but not less enough to be helpful for life safety.  

Now, in America 240V is delivered as split-phase with a center-point called "neutral".  120V circuits are wired between a phase and neutral.  That means if you get between 240V and ground, you'd only get bit by 120V.  Most ovens use the neutral to allow clocks, electronic controls and the oven light to be 120V, meaning you can use common incandescent light bulbs instead of weird 240V bulbs that would be hard to find. 



If she is complaining about being shocked, then perhaps she actually is being shocked.  There are two ways to wire an oven - a 4-wire connection which is as safe as any modern equipment, or a 3-wire connection which omits ground, and potentially catastrophically, connects neutral to the chassis of the oven. (WTH?) The idea is that the neutral wire is unlikely to fail on an installation that is rarely disturbed.  

Well. The problem is that if the neutral wire does fail, then it most definitely electrifies the chassis of the oven.  The oven electronics may not flow enough current to electrocute someone, but the oven light definitely would.

So if the oven has a 3-wire connection, that is something to take very seriously. I would recommend retrofitting a single ground wire from the oven to the panel or intermediate location, and removing that pesky neutral-ground strap on the oven that connects neutral to ground.  Once the oven chassis is properly grounded, at that point she is just mistaken.