Switch(es?) blowing AFCI breaker
AFCI is a safety device that is designed to protect circuits from setting your house on fire.  You are talking about defeating a safety system because a) it's annoying and b) you have no earthly idea what to do about it.  Let's fix b). 

It is called an Arc Fault Circuit Interruptor

"Circuit interruptor" is the technical term for "be annoying".  "Arc Fault" is the safety hazard it detects.   This means arcing and sparking at a poor electrical connection.  This causes high heat at that connection, and that can create a race condition where you have thousands of BTUs in a very small area, typically inside the walls where a fire can become fully engaged before you even know it's there (and it's impossible for you to access it to extinguish it while it's small). 

We're talking about hour house burning down.  No kidding. 

If you've ever heard the "crinkle crunch" of speakers being connecting or of a headphone going into a jack, that's the sound arcing makes.  That is what the AFCI is listening for.  

Connection problems almost never happen in the wires inline in the walls (unless someone ran a nail or screw through them).  They are almost always at wire ends, or inside devices such as switches, sockets, or lamps.  

Backstabs

The #1 source of arc faults is "backstab connections", which are a lazy way to jab a wire into a hole, and it just grabs.  This gives it a single point of contact, and that can be loosened just by the forces on the wire when you cram the receptacle/switch back into the box.   That's why most of us remove backstabs on sight, and use the screw terminals only, or "screw-to-clamp" type back connections where you tighten the screw to clamp it.  

Going through all your devices on the part of the circuit downline from switches 1 and 2, removing backstabs and going with screw or screw-and-clamp, will help a lot.

Arcing can also come from failing to tighten down a screw enough, but this is far less common than backstabs.   That is why Code now requires torque screwdrivers, and you set the torque to whatever the socket specifies.  

Cheap switches and receptacles

Let's talk about two tiers of switch and receptacle.  

"Builder Grade" costs about 60 cents a device.  They are cheeeeep.  "Spec Grade" costs about $2.50 a device.  They are much better built - this is rather obvious from the construction - and most of them support a "Screw-to-clamp" style connection.  

"Screw-to-clamp" has a bonus feature: It allows 2 wires to be back-wired to the same screw.  That solves occasional problems where 2 wires need to go to one screw; on builder-grade, they put one on the backstab and one on the screw.  With these, you can put both under the screw. 

Devices

Occasionally, you get a device such as a lamp or fan that has an internal arc fault. If you've tried everything else, it is probably down to that.  For proof of the pudding, move the device onto a different circuit (ie. Part of the house that is on a different AFCI breaker) and see if the problem follows the device.