How do I connect touch panel 3 gang switch?
Be VERY Careful What You Install
With plugged in items, if there is a problem it is usually quite obvious and, very importantly, very easy to resolve quickly - just unplug it.
With hardwired items, including smart switches, timers, touch switches (like this one), motion sensors, etc., if there are problems they may manifest themselves by simply dying (annoying but no big deal) but occasionally a little more dramatically, like burning your house down or killing you.
You should always make sure that hardwired mains-voltage (120 or 240) items are appropriately UL Listed or similar. There are other labs that provide real-world useful certification. CE is not one of them - it is just a mark that anyone can print. Fortunately, actual fraudulent UL Listing marks are much more unusual, though it would be nice if there was an end-user easy &amp; reliable way to double-check UL Listing - if there is, I don't know about it.
In addition, the Chinglish wording (I count 5 problems in a quick read) and a number of other design &quot;features&quot; point to this being a cheap and non-certified device that is very risky to install in your house. It is possible that the internals were designed by a good engineer and manufactured to acceptable tolerances. It is also possible that any or all of the following could be present:

Insufficient insulation or design such that the &quot;touch&quot; part of things is designed in a way that could result in current going through the user in a wet environment.
Components incapable of handing a full load (800W per section, 2000W total) - which may be OK when used with a smaller load (e.g., 50W per section of LED lighting). In fact, I think that is extremely likely as the typical incandescent max. load is 600W per section and a 15A device (the usual design) is typically limited to 1440W by code. 2000W as a maximum would almost certainly not pass even the most basic certification for a consumer light control in the US.

and I could think of more things if I took the time. But just don't do it. If you ever have a problem, your insurance company will take one look at it and determine that it was not installed according to code and likely refuse to pay. You can't argue &quot;but residential straight switch replacements by the homeowner are OK&quot; because while in most areas that is OK, it is premised upon the materials and workmanship being up to code. In this case, the materials would definitely not be up to code.