Turn 1 Switch Into 3 Switches That Control Outdoor Lighting?
This is unfortunately not as simple as it looks

You'd think you'd be able to get by with a simple direct buried 14/4 cable, and you're almost right.  However, 14/4 UF is a non-starter (nobody makes it).  So, you'll have to lay some Schedule 80 PVC conduit in your trench instead and pull 14 AWG THWNs (3 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground, just as you were thinking) through that.  The trench should be about 24" deep to make sure you meet the 18" minimum bury depth requirements, and should have a warning tape atop the conduit so that the next bloke who digs there gets a reminder before they get bit.

You'll want to use fat conduit (say 3/4" or 1" with reducing fittings) to make the pull not totally unmanageable, and your box inside will need to have a conduit knockout to fit the conduit (many plastic boxes don't, so you'll have to be careful when picking the box out).  It's probably best to run the conduit up the outside of the wall and then have a weatherproof nonmetallic LB body going straight into the back of the box, for that matter, instead of having conduit coming into the foundation and then up through the top plate.

At the other end, you'll run the conduit up to a weatherproof nonmetallic type X body and then run a nipple from the type X body to a nonmetallic FS box atop that for your receptacle, all mounted to some scrap 2x6 that is used as a bracket attached to a 4x4 post in the ground.  The two side ports run from the X body to weatherproof nonmetallic L bodies (an LL on the left and a LR on the right) which then run to conduits going back down into the ground to the light fixtures -- these conduits have one hot, a neutral, and a ground in them, with the splices being made in the X body.

Also, use different colors (anything besides white, grey, or green) for each of the hots here so that you can keep them straight in the outdoor wiring -- one of them will be an unswitched hot for the receptacle, while the other two are switched hots for each set of lights.  Last but not least, make sure there's a "while in use" hood on the receptacle box -- an "extra duty" type should be used, even, to provide the best ruggedness available.