Confusion about main disconnect ampacity
It's not clear to me why they're limiting you to 120V @ 30A. Everything about this suggests that the transformer capacity available up at the pole is very limited, and they would be unable to supply 100A-200A @240V to each residence. 


  Interestingly, they are instructing you to wire your meter with the neutral through the meter. Normally, the meter does not measure neutral, only the hots.  As such, this meter will be effectively recording double the current.  It is literally measuring current coming and going, akin to a theater charging your entry and your exit as two admissions.  As such its current readings should be divided in half.   If it's a smart-meter which measures voltage across the supply, then it should be able to accurately compute KWH, but watch out. 


120V is very sensitive to voltage drop, hitting 3% drop at only 60 feet or so.  So you should upsize the wires as much as you can bear.  The two-#8 setup they are requiring is perfectly capable of supporting 240V with the voltage drop in mind, assuming you are forever stuck at 120V @ 30A.  However we certainly hope they will provide better service someday.  The max the 3/4" plastic conduit can hold is three 6 AWG THwN wires, which will support 60A @ 240V in the future.  For today, install two of them and add the third on that future happy day. 

If you want to be cheap, still use #6, but use aluminum wire.  That is the equivalent of #8 copper, and is perfectly fine in service/feeder applications like this.  Make sure the 30A breaker is AL-rated, if not, stick 6" pigtails of #10Cu on it.

30A @ 120V is very, very small service.  I have it myself, in my US apartment (didn't even know this til just recently, and the master never tripped, but it is FPE so that is to be expected). 30A@120V provides 3600W, and will allow you to run no more than two heat-making appliances at once: hair dryer, microwave, portable heater, toaster oven, hot plate, laser printer, gaming PC, etc. 

Don't let the very small service deter you from putting in a full and proper service panel with many circuits.  It doesn't matter how many circuits are in your panel; it matters how much actual load you draw on them.  For instance if I owned this place I'd slap in a 30-space (3PE, a 42-space won't fit lol) and probably put in 25 circuits, all 20A.  This wouldn't have any effect on the actual load, because we'll still use the same appliances the same ways. For us it would eliminate the "kitchen dance" where we can only run 1 heat-making appliance at once because the kitchen only has 1 20A circuit.  

And then of course in the happy day they upgrade your service, you are ready to make the most of it. 

Again, the draw on your service isn't decided by how many breakers are in your panel.  It's decided by what's plugged in and turned on.  

Oh, speaking of that, your "main" panel inside your house does need to have a main breaker of its own, or some other obvious master shutoff switch nearby. That is because it's an outbuilding.  Since your "main panel" only has 6 spaces, you might slide by with the old "Rule of Six" (you must be able to de-energize the whole house with no more than 6 breaker throws), but I thought that rule was outlawed. 

It does not matter if the 30A supply feeds a 60A, 100A, 200A or even 400A "main panel" in the house.  The important job is protecting the wire to the house, and the 30A breaker does that just fine.  

As far as grounding, you definitely need grounding rods, water pipe ground or Ufer ground at the house.  Because of that, I am advising to treat the long conduit run like it's a service lateral, and ignore the fact that the meter and main breaker are back at the pole.  That will remove the need to run ground in the conduit (rather silly, IMO, a ground rod at the pole contributes nothing to safety, and you need the house ground rods in any case).