Options for a 0-10V dimmer on a 3-way, in a basement
There are at least 4 different ways to dim mains AC powered lights (i.e., anything from 110V - 480V):

Modification of the mains power fed to the lights

This is what typical residential applications use. It is cheap because of mass production (i.e., almost any home or office can use it) and easy because it generally involves &quot;switch replacement&quot; so that it can go &quot;anywhere&quot;, even in circuits that were not originally set up for a dimmer.
However, it is not necessarily the most efficient way of doing things and often incompatible with LED lighting. Essentially, LED lights are so efficient and so different from incandescent lights, that they will suck up the power when they can and give you light (sometimes flashing) instead of dimming, unless the LED light and the dimmer are designed to be compatible with each other.

Wireless remote control within each bulb or fixture

An example of these is Philips Hue:

They seem expensive, until you realize that each one essentially includes a microcomputer, WiFi receiver and lots of other good stuff. If you want to just &quot;screw in new bulbs and dim from your phone or Alexa&quot;, this is the easiest solution. However, this doesn't give you &quot;dim from your wall switch&quot;.

Low-voltage lights with power line dimming

This is actually a very efficient way to do things. LEDs are low-voltage devices anyway, so converting from high voltage (mains) to low voltage (typically 12V - 24V) means that the LED lights don't have to do that conversion, which is more efficient and lower cost (though the cost savings isn't always so apparent as mass production of mains-powered LED lights lowers the cost there for different reasons).

High-voltage lights with a separate low-voltage signal for dimming

This is what you have with the RAB lights. It is very efficient because you just use a tiny bit of power to control the dimming and don't need fancy electronics on the switches or in the power modules of the fixtures. There is electronics needed in the fixtures but, designed well, those can be much more efficient than dimming via the primary input power.
This type of signalling has a huge advantage in certain applications. In particular, it allows for remote control of different types of lights (incandescent, LED, etc.) and the dimmer does not have to be sized to handle the full power of the lights. Residential dimmer switches will often have a limit of 600W or similar, less than even a standard 15A circuit - i.e., you might have (in the old incandescent days at least) a large room with lots of lights on one circuit and find you can't even install an ordinary dimmer because the lights use too much power! With dimming through a separate low-voltage path, this problem goes away.
Important: This type of dimming uses separate wires from the actual power for the lights. Which means:

You will need to run a separate set of wires for dimming
If you are using conduit, those wires might have to be in a separate conduit (or outside conduit) as you generally can't mix high &amp; low voltage wires. (Exception if all the low voltage stuff is rated to exist around high voltage. It gets complicated. Separate is easiest.)
The good news: As noted by Harper, the dimmer does not have to be in the same place as the main switches. So, for example, if you have the main 3-way switches by the doors (as is normal, and to a certain degree required by code), you could have the dimmer at a workbench or other convenient location.

But the end result is you got lights that are not typically used in residential applications, which is why the dimmer switches are expensive.