Adding circuits to an outdoor surface mount electric panel for kitchen remodel
You run individual THHN wires in conduit, not NM or UF cables
The first mistake most DIYers make when they first approach conduit is trying to stuff NM or UF down it.  Instead, what you're supposed to use in conduit is individual wires of a type called THHN.  These are usually stranded, making them much more flexible than NM or UF cable, and also take up much less space than a cable since they don't twist around awkwardly during pulling.
You're better off running conduit all the way for that many circuits (no, it's not as hard as it sounds)
Furthermore, you're far better off putting a large junction box (a 6&quot; by 6&quot; by 4&quot; NEMA 1 pull box would do quite fine for this) in your attic or kitchen at some convenient point and running all your NM cables to it, then taking two lengths of ¾ ENT (&quot;smurf tube&quot;) and running them from said box out to the LB conduit bodies you'll need to use to make the turn down outside.  This lets you run quite a bit more power (in the form of up to 8 circuits normally, or 16 if you go whole-hog on MWBCs) to your kitchen without getting bit by ampacity adjustments that knock down the carrying capacity of wires once you stuff too many (more than 9 for wires 10AWG or smaller) wires down a conduit.  This solution also removes the need to provide working space for a subpanel in the kitchen, which isn't always the most practical thing in the world.
And finally...
Last but not least, from the aforementioned LBs, you'll want to run rigid PVC conduit down the side of the panel then turn into the panel with LL bodies fitted with weep holes, in the fashion of your Option 2.  This way, you won't need the special three-piece hub (&quot;Myers hub&quot;) fittings that are required to come into the top of an outdoor breaker box or electrical cabinet at a location not factory-designated for a hub fitting.
Note that you may need to field punch knockouts in the side of the breaker box to do this; this is fine, as long as the KOs don't overlap factory KOs and don't extend above the lowest live part in the box.