Should I use glue or powder-actuated nails when framing over gypcrete?
I will agree with isherwood regarding the nails to jiggle loose rather fast, as the gypcrete doesn't have the compressive strength to hold them.  The power-actuated is a no-no, as the holding capacity of those nails relies on 2 main factors:

sintering between the steel in the nail, and the concrete, achieved thanks to the high temperature during the split second when you drive the nail in (it's a sort of &quot;welding&quot; between the steel and the concrete)
friction between the concrete and the nail, as the concrete is trying to &quot;pour&quot; back where it used to be before it was displaced by the nail.

As gypcrete is more brittle and has lower compressive strength, it won't hold the nail at all.  Furthermore, powder-actuated nails are design to be driven anywhere between ⅝ and 1&quot; into solid concrete (⅝ into higher PSI concrete, up to 7/8 or a full 1&quot; into softer C15 concrete).  In the lower possible setting (using a green cartridge with a tool that allows you to adjust power, such as the Hilti DX351), you would still punch through the track and sink into the soft gypcrete.
I recommend that you bite the bullet, and drive long screws, such as Tapcon concrete screws, or Hilti's Kwik-Con.  Probably even Grainger's regular concrete screws would do just fine, as you just need them to hold against shear loads.
Source: was a technical Product Manager at Hilti for 10 years.