Circuit Breakers for Electric Baseboard Heaters
It sounds like you have the numbering correct.
240v is the result of any L1 and L2 connection, the NEC requires the handles be tied, so a two pole breaker or adjacent breakers are required.
1 and 2 are L1 connections, 3 and 4 are L2 connections. I think it is possible somebody reversed the wires that are on #3 &amp; #4. Swapping those two from the current position would make the breakers feeding 240v adjacent, and able to be connected (as required by code) with handle ties or preferably two-pole breakers. Why they aren't on handle tied breakers is less clear, may somebody removed the ties after finding they didn't properly disconnect the misaligned connection. The 11/14 connection would create 240v also, but an explaination of why misswired is less clear, maybe another 240v 12/13 was removed.
A typical 120/240v service is created with two opposing 120v legs, L1 and L2, and are built in a typical residential panel fashioned as two interlocking combs feeding horizontal breakers with the same leg. So when you look at the panel 1 and 2 are on L1, 3 and 4 are on L2, 5 and 6 are on L1, 7 and 8 are on L2, etc..
Any place you mount a two-pole breaker by design terminates in two side by side buses, and automatically attaches to the opposing legs.
P.S. The two-pole 30 could be a water heater. The amperage marking on the handle is the rating for maximum current (amps), it does not double for a two-pole connection. Amps are kinda like lanes of traffic. When you make a higher voltage (which is pressure/force) you essentially speed up the flow of electrons within the existing lanes, so you get more work done without needing to increase the wire or breaker size. If you need to use a breaker that allows more amps then you have to use thicker wire. It is also possible #13 is not connected now, my suspicion is it should go to the kitchen since you only show one of the two required 20A circuits that the code requires to feed kitchen countertop work surfaces.