No neutral kitchen wiring
Can't have a loose wire

"14/2" means a black, white and bare wire wrapped in a sheath.  "14/3" is the same except it also has a red wire inside the sheath.  

If the red wire is outside the sheath, loose or tacked on, then it cannot be used. At all.  This is a totally improper wiring technique. Cap it with a wire-nut and tape, and push it into the back of the box. At the service panel end, just cut it - it is useless.  Whoever installed it did very bad work, and all the other work in the house should be reviewed against Code. 

I know what he was trying to do, but you can't do that - so no point getting into the gory details.

Pigtails are fine

It's fine if circuits are pig-tailed with wire nuts and short lengths of wire to the receptacle.  That is a totally acceptable wiring method.   

A workaround: put it all on a single circuit

The simplest thing is simply to wire everything onto a single circuit.  It's not good, it would certainly not meet new-build or remodel standards, but it is better than he had it.  

When possible, you should pull at least two more 12 AWG/20A circuits, preferably three, and spread the loads out among them. Then retire the 15A/14AWG circuit, or dedicate it to a single thing such as the refrigerator. 

Two ways to GFCI

You can install a GFCI breaker inside the panel.  That will protect everything on that circuit.  You must use a 15A breaker because there is any 14 AWG wire in the circuit. 

Or, you can install a GFCI receptacle there at the switch.  You can decide which additional loads you would like to GFCI-protect by attaching them to the LOAD side of the GFCI.  If you put a "hot" on the GFCI LOAD terminal, you must also put its companion "neutral" also.  You may end up with 2 wire-nuts with 2 groups of neutrals: the unprotected and the protected.  If a hot goes through the GFCI and a neutral does not (or vice versa), the GFCI will trip.