Max pressure I can set my well to?
You can, but it's not all to the good...

Normally, most household plumbing fixtures (especially toilet valves) prefer a pressure of no more than 80 PSI. Your pipes are nearly always not the limiting factor. Most well pump controllers have a fixed 20PSI swing from on to off, but many can be adjusted so they can swing 40-60, 50-70, 60-80, 30-50, 23.5-43.5 etc.

The volume of water stored in your pressure tanks becomes less as the pressure is raised - a captive air tank swinging from 40 to 20 PSI stores far more water than one swinging from 80 to 60 PSI. This matters because more pump starts is one of the factors that leads eventually to pump death and replacement, always a fun time. So if you raise the system pressure, you should probably also increase your storage tank volume to prevent having lots of very short pump cycles. Switching over to a "constant pressure" (or "nearly constant pressure") system is another alternative, though it can be costly.

If you change system pressure, you need to change  precharge air pressure in captive air tanks (typically about 2-3 PSI less than the lower cut-in pressure - ie, 58 lb for an 80-60 setting.)

You should observe system pressure as water is used - a properly functioning 40-60 PSI system should drop to about 40, switch on the pump and raise to 60, switch off the pump and drop to 40 as water is used. When no water is used the system pressure should hold steady. If you turn off all other water use and measure exactly how much water is needed to drop from 60 to 40 you can gauge the health and current storage capacity of your pressure tanks. If you measure the time it takes to refill from 40-60 (without drawing any more water) you will know your pumping rate (and if it takes less than a minute, conventional wisdom is that you already need more storage capacity.)