Is atomic swaps available for someone reasonably techical right now?
Atomic swaps can be performed, yes, they aren't just a theoretical thing. For example here is a tool on GitHub for creating atomic swap transactions between Decred, Bitcoin Core, Litecoin and a couple of other coins: https://github.com/decred/atomicswap

But I do not know of any exchanges or markets which support doing atomic swaps, you would probably have to manually find someone who is willing to sell ETH for BTC and do an atomic swap with you at an agreed price. LocalBitcoins might be a starting place to look, I'm unsure.

Hope that helps though