Do I have a MSc degree if I did the work but did not pay tuition?
No.

Unless your university is willing to provide proof that they granted you a degree, they didn't.  Listing an MSc degree on your résumé that your university is unwilling to confirm invites accusations of fabrication, which would be nearly impossible to refute and which could cost you your job many years in the future.

On the other hand, nothing stops you from publishing your thesis, or asking your dean for a recommendation letter explaining the unfortunate situation.