Automotive battery input EMI filtering
This is not a job for ferrite beads.  What you're looking for here is a common-mode choke.

This random google result is what I have in mind:


I'd relocate C3 (in your/Toradex' circuit) to be adjacent to the CM-choke.

If this is a automotive 12V-battery application, then that SMAJ-series TVS might not be up to the job of dealing with cranking, jump-starting, &amp; load-dump events, so perhaps look into re-spec’ing that.

I'm guessing D2 is supposed to be reverse-voltage protection?  But it's only rated for 3A, so guess who might pop first: D2, or the 7A fuse? lol. Either re-spec it or get rid of it.

C4, C5, C6 are 'yeah, whatever' - depends on what's being driven.  You really need to do a proper impedance analysis of what kind of noise you're trying to protect against, what your regulator(s) rejection-ratio is, and what, if anything, in the powered circuit actually cares for this level of clean power.

Just replace those silly ferrite beads with a proper wire-wound common-mode choke, whose continuous DC current exceeds your expected load (15A).  Yes, CM-chokes at 15A will be MUCH bigger than a pair of pissy little pointless ferrite beads.

I'd be wary about adding LF2 (from the circuit I've pasted in) without further careful consideration of what's downstream (load).  Many switch-mode regulators/PMICs won't like significant amounts of L on their input like that, unless there's plenty more C on the load-side of LF2.