Can I Hook a Raspberry Pi Zero to a Laptop Display Via HDMI to TTL and TTL to LVDS?
For a start - the only useful figure you can get from the screen datasheet so far is its power consumption, which is a nice figure you can use to know what to expect in terms of battery life etc. Other than that, nothing of interest there unless you plan to interface with I2C of the panel (which you likely won't).



I vote for the "get a HDMI-to-LVDS board" way. Those boards do the task you want without TTL in between (possibly, having TTL-to-LVDS on the board, but any possible problems with connecting two modules together are already sorted out). I encourage you to do just that - they're cheap enough. What's with the 9V then?

Those boards mainly use 5V and lower inside, having a regulator of some sorts to produce the 5V/lower for the display logic. You can remove that regulator, power the 5V parts from the Pi and, if anything on the board actually uses 9V (say, backlight driver), you can then use a boost converter, which won't consume much energy since the bulk of current should be taken by the 5V line you'll connect directly to the Pi without conversion losses.

As for the height concerns - you can desolder unnecessary connectors, remove some capacitors and replace some with the ones laying flat. Inductors are kinda harder to minify but they're likely to belong to the power regulator parts and if you're going the "remove regulator" route, you can remove them. The connectors can be replaced with angled ones (which lowers height) or bypassed altogether by soldering to the board (think power-menu-button board which typically comes with those HDMI-to-LVDS boards and that you won't need to remove).

For the size concern - you can find a board without the audio amplifier (which is often populated on those boards), or maybe HDMI-only. In some circumstances, boards can even be cut (provided you can see there are no traces that are important for you - or you can jumper those with small wires).



Oh, and the link you provided to "TTL-to-LVDS converter" is not really a converter - it's a PCB with two connectors soldered together, there are no active components to make the conversion. The actual converter is somewhere lower in "Suggested items", I guess.