Which chemicals can be used to clean electronics?
I would start with clean (distilled or de-ionized) water over any of those.  Most ordinary dirt can be cleaned off with water well enough.  Make sure whatever you are cleaning is unpowered, and don't power it back up until you are sure it is dry again.  Most electronics using VLSI components are safe to immerse in clean water, but SMT electronics especially with chipsets and things that have mechanical components are notable exceptions.  The water will go under the chipsets because it is using the space between the pcb and the chipset as a capillary and gets stuck under it. The liquid will not dry and even if it does after some time it will leave a certain amount of corrosion under it which may lead to a change in resistance including a short.Some of these electronics include anything that is a bit smarter than your lightswitch like buzzers, relays, watches, microcontroller controlled electronics, and anything in a housing where water might get in but have a hard time getting out again.

While extra clean water is a good idea, even ordinary tap water is good enough for most cases.  The advantage there is that it's cheap and available, so you can afford to have new water flow over whatever you are cleaning.  Washing with tapwater and rinsing with clean water is fine too.  That will rinse away any of the crud that tap water might leave behind as a thin residue.

Next I'd use isopropyl alchohol.  In fact, I keep some of that around the office, along with some cotton swabs.  It can dissolve some solder fluxes that plain water can't.  Otherwise, observe the same precautions as with water.  Remember that it's probably 30% or so water anyway.

Ethyl alcohol would probably work similarly, although I don't have personal experience with it.

I would stay away from vodka, rum, and any other ethanol with extra stuff in it.  If you have to go that route, moonshine is probably better because it's basically ethanol and water with little else.  Still I wouldn't trust any liquors due to them containing stuff that may not evaporate and therefore be left behind.

I wouldn't use acetone at all unless I was sure the specific component it comes in contact with is rated for that.  Acetone can dissolve various things that could cause trouble.

More about dissolving:

I think what I've said is clear enough, but since it was accused of being  misleading I'll get into it a little more.

Dissolving is a process where individual molecules of a substance (the solute) diffuse into a liquid (the solvent) such that the result is still a liquid.  Salt dissolving in water is a example we've all encountered.  This is different from a slurry where small particles of some substance are suspended in a liquid.  The particles are still many many molecules in size and are generally large enough to settle out after a while, but this is a digression anyway.

Some types of plastic dissolve in acetone.  Some electrical components are in part made of such plastic.  Therefore washing boards with these components on them in acetone can cause harm.

If this plastic were submerged in acetone long enough, it would eventually all enter solution (dissolve) and be rinsed away with that solution.  The act of dissolving (molecules leaving the solid plastic structure and diffusing thru the acetone) takes time.  Obviously this can only happen at the boundary between the solid and the acetone.  That boundary moves further into the solid as the outer layers are dissolved and swept away.  In this case, the solid doesn't just suddenly go from pristine to dissolved immediately at the boundary layer.  Some of the acetone diffuses into the solid a bit, which "loosens" it, which makes it easier for the loosened molecules to dissolve, which also makes it easier for more acetone to diffuse further into the solid.

If this process is not allowed to complete, then there will be some part of the solid that is diffused with acetone where the molecules have loosened, but are still somewhat linked to each other and therefore not truly dissolved.  This part becomes much weaker mechanically so that it can easily deform, from light touches, moving acetone, or even just gravity.  Acetone is quite volatile, so after it is removed the molecules in the transition region of the solid diffuse out and evaporate.  The molecules of the solid can then link to each other more tightly, making it mechanically stronger again.  This causes it to re-solidify in whatever shape it was deformed to when weak.

True dissolving is not really a chemical reaction.  I don't know whether acetone also reacts chemically with some plastics or if it's just dissolving action.  The fact that the plastic re-hardens after the acetone is removed suggests it is not chemically altered, but I don't know that for sure.