Is there any notification system that can turn on a LED pulse?
I'll leave the wireless ponderings to the comments/other answers, though there are many affordable and many easy and even some easy and affordable options. (EDIT1: Although, stand-alone wireless options may potentially be combined with the two options below)

Your easiest system with wires would be connecting all the switches in parallel, so they all trigger the same signal. That signal triggers something bi-stable (stays in both on and off state), that is reset by your local button. This bi-stable object triggers a blinking-circuit that drives the LED.

To do this there are many ways, the two that can cost as little as $1 for all the electronics are: 


A microcontroller. You need one input pin, one output pin, some resistors a small capacitor or two and some coding using mainly tutorial work. I like Atmel myself, but others may favour Microchip's PIC. I only know Atmel has a very good support community, PIC probably does as well.
Discrete digital or analog/digital blocks, such as an S-R-Flipflop from the 74-series of logic chips and either an Inverter-based oscillator or an NE/LM/MC/LT/LTC 555 timer (the 555 is important, which letter come before don't matter, that only signifies manufacturer and some small differences not of interest to you. The non-microcontroller schematic would look like this, I'm using an inverter based oscillator, as I expect that to be cheaper (haven't used a 555 in ages, since microcontrollers can do that too, but also much more awesome things at the same cost):








simulate this circuit &ndash; Schematic created using CircuitLab

As hopefully is becoming my trademark, I will add a complete explanation, to teach, even if you are going to use a microcontroller:

SW2 through SW5 are the switches for your artists, you can add as many as you like. If you start getting "false triggers" because you add too much wire to the switch channel you can change R2 all the way down to 510Ohm to make it resist noise even more.

An S-R Flip Flop is a little building block that has a reset and set input. They do pretty much what the name suggests. In the most common S-R Flop Flops (S-R Latch is an alternative name) the S and R input are "active low" as denoted by the stripe above the two letters. Do check that when finding your component. If they are active high, connect the switches to the +5V and the resistors R1 and R2 to ground.

Now if an artist pushes a button, regardless of which, the S line goes low (gets connected to ground), so the latch is set to its on state. When you then press your button Reset goes low and the latch goes to its off state. When both are low, the latch will do one of three things, depending on the type: 


It will stay in the state it was before the second pin went low.
It will go to an undetermined state (on, off, or a bit of both).
It will give preference over one of the two inputs (often the reset).


Which one it is will be in the datasheet's truth table. In all situations, usually (again: truth table), the device will go to determined state once either goes back high (inactive in this design) and the output reflects the line that is still low.

Most S-R Latches/Flip FLops have two outputs (Q), one positive one negative, again denoted by the stripe over the letter Q. The positive goes to + when it's in its on-state, the negative goes to + when it's in its off-state. In the alternate states they go to - actively.

So, if the flip flop is set (active), the Q' (how we write Q-stripe if we can't make an overline) will be low. The diode will not conduct into the capacitor and leak less then a micro ampere from the capacitor. As I already know I chose the resistor to be smaller than 1.5Mega Ohm (let's call that upper limit) I'm going to ignore that.

Now, the capacitor C1 starts at a voltage, let's say at a high voltage (doesn't matter, just start somewhere). This means the inverter sees a 1. An inverter always turns around what it sees, so it makes a 0 on its output. Now, the resistor R3 discharges the capacitor, because 0 means connected to ground. When the capacitor reaches the voltage that means 0 to the inverter, the inverter will switch to putting a 1 on its output. A 1 means +5V, so the resistor starts charging the capacitor. This goes on and on and on. So the output of the inverter "NOT1" keeps toggling. For this to work well you need a "Schmidt Trigger" inverter, such as the 74-14 type. Schmidt Trigger means the distance between where it sees a 1 and where it sees a 0 is quite a bit larger, which allows you to choose much smaller R and C.

The values shown for C1 and R3 I expect to give between 0.7 and 1.2Hz blinking frequency. If the frequency is not right, decrease the capacitor or resistor to make it faster, or increase them to make it slower. Try to keep the resistor between 22k and 1.5M and the capacitor between 1nF and 2.2uF, too large or too small can stress the circuit too much.

Now, as the NOT1 toggles, the NOT2 through NOT6 toggle as well, these inverters come free with the first one in a 74-14 device (six inverters in one box), so they are put parallel to combine their outputs. One inverter may not enjoy driving a LED on its own, but in just about all logic devices 5 of them can easily handle the load of a LED, especially when they have to pull the LED's current to ground. (Most logic is better at sinking current to 0 than driving current to 1).

If the Latch is reset, Q' become high, +5V. The diode D1 charges up the capacitor, it is possible the Latch has some trouble with a 1uF or 2.2uF load on its output, though I have never seen it cause much trouble, maybe you can add a 1 kOhm resistor in the same path as the diode to relieve some pain there.
When the capacitor C1 now reaches a fully charged state, the inverter will become 0 on its output, but the feedback resistor R3 is too large and cannot pull the capacitor empty, because it is fed by the Latch with more current than the resistor R3 can take away (even if the latch drives with an extra 1k Ohm). So the output stays at 0V. This means the NOT2 through NOT6 stay at +5V, so now the LED is at +5V on both sides and will stay off.