Presensitised-PCB Build Method
Toner transfer can be workable, if somewhat subject to pinholes - depending what you are doing, a permanent marker can also work.

Inkjet transparency art can also be subject to pinholes - ortho film is really the best option (either directly photoplotted or as a way of cleaning up inkjet or laser art) but that's becoming a unicorn from the death of photo-process offset printing. The problem with inkjet is that the black may really be more transparent than is ideal, making exposure times very fussy as you try to catch the point where the clear parts are exposed enough but the "black" parts are not yet exposed too much. With a serious black that is much less of a concern. You might look for a photoplotting service.

For an "exposure unit" you can use sunlight, though you may need to make some test exposures - but you may need to do that with the other kind, and it's far less hassle if the sun shines somewhat regularly to prop a board/art/glass sandwich up in the sun for a few minutes than to fuss about with creating a UV source and worry about how even it is. Being conveniently located 93 million miles away ensures that sunlight is pretty even.

The "quality" of ebay drill bits (or anything else) varies widely and cannot be guaranteed. 

I would (as someone who has done my own exposure/developing/etching in the past) second the advice to look harder at/for outside shops. Among other concerns proper disposal of used etchant (now full of copper) is a major hassle for a hobby-scale operation, but it's not something you want to dispose of improperly and later be fined for. Commercial-scale operations generally recover the copper. Let's see: not in town, but at least in country.

http://www.pcbfast.com.au

http://www.becman.com/index.php?page=prototype

There are also several that have "production in China but distribution in Aus" with relatively short turn times for prototypes.

Another option for SMD or mostly-SMD prototypes is to cut islands into bare copper boards using a Dremel tool or similar. 

An old option that might have come full circle is to directly plot on bare copper with a resist pen - this requires a flat-bed plotter or at least a plotter that will handle a rigid sheet, but some of the "maker" folks seem to have reinvented those at relatively low cost. Using a cnc mill/router to directly cut boards is another option, though it has the downside of being messy and hard on the equipment (fiberglass dust in precision ways is not a good thing) - that's essentially automating the prototpe with a dremel process, but has the downside of needing the create the cutting file (by which time you might be done dremeling if just going right at it)