node.html.twig gets cached while other templates do not
drupal site:mode dev won't turn off all the caches. Tunning caching for dev purpose requires manual changes to the settings.(local.)php. 

Open the example.settings.local.php file located in the sites directory and copy its content over to site's settings.(local.)php file.
Focus on the cache bins - in your case render and dynamic_page_cache.

$settings['container_yamls'][] = DRUPAL_ROOT . '/sites/development.services.yml';
$settings['cache']['bins']['render'] = 'cache.backend.null';
$settings['cache']['bins']['dynamic_page_cache'] = 'cache.backend.null';