How do I get $view->the actual row number?
user1090003 has the right answer.


  in views-view-fields.tpl.php or... you can have the row index like this $view->row_index


Further explanation:

In views-view-field--title.tpl.php (suggestion of views-view-fields.tpl.php), you already have the $view object available.   That view object has a property "row_index" that equals the current row number starting at zero.

Example of use:

    &lt;?php print $view-&gt;row_index; ?&gt;
    &lt;?php print $output; ?&gt;


Example results:

    0
    Node Title 1
    --
    1
    Node Title 2