Views AJAX pager not working, though AJAX is enabled
I can't (yet) answer your question, but I can see where I think it's going wrong.

The Views JS is loading for your site, but the Views classes aren't being applied the same on your site and the test I'm using. I expect if you swap to another theme, you'll see the View start working. (That doesn't mean you need to abandon your theme, but it may help you track the problem down.)

In your JS console, you can inspect variables - and the relevant variable for you looks like Drupal.views.instances.GENERATEDNAMEHERE.element_settings.selector.

On a working test site, I see this (zoom in to see the JS). Note that the value in selector can then be used to obtain the wrapper div for the view HTML.

(To test: Copy the value from selector, and use it as a jQuery() selector. You can do this in your JS console.)



On your site, I see a value set in the same (similar, due to the generated ID) location, but that same value doesn't match an element in your HTML - jQuery returns an empty array, instead of an array populated with (one) matching HTML element.



So ... you need to work out what about your theme is preventing that DIV being applied. If your theme is from Drupal Contrib, you might check the issue queue. If you're using a module which strips extraneous DIV elements, that might be a place to look. And so forth.

Hope this helps ... it's not really an answer, but I hope it moves you closer to one!