Do modern airplane controls provide force feedback of external forces on the control surfaces?
On some. The Fokker 100 is one, where the aeroforces on the elevator are directly fed back to the pilot. There is a hydraulic actuator helping him, but contrary to the usual solution it is a reversible system where the hydraulics merely amplifies the direct force that the pilot exerts.

The F100 has manual reversion for elevators and ailerons, and it can still be flown reasonable comfortably without hydraulics. The 737 also has manual reversion, but the flight controls are quite heavy without hydraulics - it is about the largest high-subsonic aircraft that can still be hand-flown. Larger planes just have triple redundant hydraulic controls, some with q-feel which artificially replicates the higher air stiffness felt at higher airspeeds. No romantic gusty creaking for those aircraft in a museum.