Stainless steel spray coating
Try scouring the stainless steel gently with Comet (yes, bathroom cleanser), maybe with a sponge.

You can substitute a similar brand, like Ajax, but it must be chlorinated. Avoid Bar Keeper's Friend or Bon Ami as I haven't tried those.

You might want to keep your strokes in line with the grain of the stainless steel if it has any, and you probably want to experiment on a piece of scrap.

Rinse with hot water after scrubbing and wipe dry, but don't touch with bare skin. The hot water speeds air drying. Gloves can help with handling.

You can test the surface with a few drops of water. If it beads up, it didn't work. The water should "sheet" and "wet" the surface wherever it goes. The paint works similarly and will normally form a smooth surface tension over the entire surface treated this way, rather than in spots or splotches.

The scouring "activates" the surface (for a few hours or maybe overnight), increasing the molecular attraction of the applied liquid. Because the liquid molecules are attracted to themselves (which is what causes droplets to form and beading to form on a surface), the surface attraction needs to be greater than that inherent in the liquid. Any oils on the surface inhibit that attraction and cause beading. There are enough hydrocarbons just floating around in the air to coat a surface in a few hours with enough to cause beading. So don't leave it sitting around after cleaning, paint as soon as it's dry if you can.

As well as increasing the surface area by texturizing the surface just a little, the chlorine in the scouring powder breaks down the surface hydrocarbons with an effectiveness that solvents can never match. A solvent dilutes the hydrocarbons (oils) but all it takes is a layer one molecule thick to disrupt the surface activity and the solvent always leaves some behind when it evaporates.