At equilibrium are the rates of the forward and backward reactions equal to zero?
In equilibrium, the forward and backward rates are equal to each other. The net is zero, but the individual rates are not zero.

Consider something as simple as water — we know that the water molecule can dissociate in to an $\ce{OH-}$ and $\ce{H+}$, and the pH is a direct measure of the amount of $\ce{H+}$. Once equilibrium is achieved, it isn't like $\ce{H2O}$ stops splitting, or $\ce{H+}$ and $\ce{OH-}$ get back together — it is just at a macro level nothing changes.