His look employed fabrics lined with percale ( a closely woven plain-weave fabric ) , boned , bustier-style bodices , hip padding , wasp-waisted corsets and petticoats . This made his dresses flare out from the waist , giving his models a very curvaceous form . His look employed fabrics lined predominantly with percale , boned , bustier-style bodices , hip padding , wasp-waisted corsets and petticoats that made his dresses flare out from the waist , giving his models a very curvaceous form .