I use an E3D V6 hotend and no heated bed. I have Buildtak on the glass, with a 50-50 mix of white glue and water. The latter actually is more for a release agent. There is a two layer raft, the first layer goes down at 245 C and all layers after that 240.

Depending on what is being printed (smaller stuff need cooling larger do not) sometimes I have a fan that creates a breeze across the bed. Layer adhesion is great, but you will need to tweek the retract and feed to cut down on stringing. The surface is nice and bright. At 245 the nozzle dribbles, so wipe it between prints, and lay down a couple of perimeters to wipe the nozzle before it starts printing.

I am only printing PETG on my Kossel and this brand of PETG is about the same as the three other brands I have used. I build radio controlled model airplanes and print ribs for the wings and formers for the fuselage and it gets too hot in the sun and car for PLA and I won't use ABS. I have no problem with water uptake like PLA.
I use an E3D V6 hotend and no heated bed. I have Buildtak on the glass, with a 50-50 mix of white glue and water. The latter actually is more for a release agent. There is a two layer raft, the first layer goes down at 245 C and all layers after that 240. Depending on what is being printed (smaller stuff need cooling larger do not) sometimes I have a fan that creates a breeze across the bed. Layer adhesion is great, but you will need to tweek the retract and feed to cut down on stringing. The surface is nice and bright. At 245 the nozzle dribbles, so wipe it between prints, and lay down a couple of perimeters to wipe the nozzle before it starts printing. I am only printing PETG on my Kossel and this brand of PETG is about the same as the three other brands I have used. I build radio controlled model airplanes and print ribs for the wings and formers for the fuselage and it gets too hot in the sun and car for PLA and I won't use ABS. I have no problem with water uptake like PLA.