For thirty years, I used a 1.25" anvil lopper pretty heavily, until a pin worked loose and I couldn't replace it.

I bought Fiskars Bypass Loppers. On my tenth snip, I heard and felt a little snap.  Near the tip, the edge of the blade had chipped slightly. I worked a few more minutes, then found the edge damaged in two more places. I submitted a warranty claim online and got assurance that I would receive a replacement.

It took a month. Meanwhile, the damaged blade worked pretty well. When the new blade arrived, it, too, showed damage after a few minutes of use.  With a sharpening clamp and a felt-tip marker, I found that the old blade had been factory sharpened at 25 degrees. That sounded too thin for an edge subjected to enormous pressure. I resharpened it at 30 degrees.  So far, I haven't had any more trouble.

On the original Fiskars blade and the replacement, much of the black coating peeled off as soon as I started cutting. The blade on my old anvil lopper still has its black coating after 30 years. The Fiskars blade often creaks against wood.  The anvil blade never creaked. Evidently, the blade of a bypass lopper is subjected to lateral forces not seen in an anvil lopper.

Cuts from a bypass lopper are supposed to heal better than cuts from an anvil lopper. My anvil lopper always left clean cuts without signs of crushing. If I remove a limb from a trunk, I finish the job with a saw, anyway. For the forces involved in lopping, having the blade alined with the lower jaw, as in an anvil lopper, seems to help make operation quick, quiet, and trouble-free. The Fiskars are surprisingly light for their size, and the company stands behind the warranty, but now I wish I'd bought anvil loppers.
For thirty years, I used a 1. 25" anvil lopper pretty heavily, until a pin worked loose and I couldn't replace it. I bought Fiskars Bypass Loppers. On my tenth snip, I heard and felt a little snap. Near the tip, the edge of the blade had chipped slightly. I worked a few more minutes, then found the edge damaged in two more places. I submitted a warranty claim online and got assurance that I would receive a replacement. It took a month. Meanwhile, the damaged blade worked pretty well. When the new blade arrived, it, too, showed damage after a few minutes of use. With a sharpening clamp and a felt-tip marker, I found that the old blade had been factory sharpened at 25 degrees. That sounded too thin for an edge subjected to enormous pressure. I resharpened it at 30 degrees. So far, I haven't had any more trouble. On the original Fiskars blade and the replacement, much of the black coating peeled off as soon as I started cutting. The blade on my old anvil lopper still has its black coating after 30 years. The Fiskars blade often creaks against wood. The anvil blade never creaked. Evidently, the blade of a bypass lopper is subjected to lateral forces not seen in an anvil lopper. Cuts from a bypass lopper are supposed to heal better than cuts from an anvil lopper. My anvil lopper always left clean cuts without signs of crushing. If I remove a limb from a trunk, I finish the job with a saw, anyway. For the forces involved in lopping, having the blade alined with the lower jaw, as in an anvil lopper, seems to help make operation quick, quiet, and trouble-free. The Fiskars are surprisingly light for their size, and the company stands behind the warranty, but now I wish I'd bought anvil loppers.