I have caught nearly 80 gray squirrels with this trap, so it is not too small--as a couple reviewers have stated. But it does have its quirks:  I learned by my failures and the squirrels successful escapes, which are now rare.

Regardless of the size of the cage/trap they all have the same problem:  The space between the see-through wiring is too generous.  If a small treat is laid in the center back (or the locked side), the squirrels will simply reach a skinny front leg/arm and pull the item to the side and consume the treat:  In my case it was and is peanut butter on a small piece of bread or cracker.

They have even grabbed hold of the cage and pulled it around and over, hoping to lodge the treat in an advantageous spot they can get at.  They are very clever, and seem to sense the threat of this closed space.

So, here's how to increase the catchability of squirrels:

1.  Place bricks tightly up against the outer edge of the cage, being careful not to interfere with the triggering mechanism. Also, place a brick on top of the cage.  This eliminates their ability to pull the cage about or--if the ground is soft or it's sitting on mulch--to tunnel under the cage to get at the bait.  Yes, they will tunnel for that morsel.

2.  But bricks are not enough.  They can still reach in through the generous openings in the "screen".  So..., get some aluminum window screening/mesh and wrap it around the area where the bait is.  Make this long enough to place under the accompanying bricks so they cannot pull it away--plus, the brick on top will help.  Now they cannot reach in with their little paws, and have no option but to enter via the trap door.  Alas, there is a caveat:  a tenacious squirrel will claw and bite at the aluminum and tear it (don't even consider any plastic mesh) in its desire to get at the morsel you've placed, so you may need to replace it from time to time. Copper mesh would be great, but it's not readily available, unless you can find some old copper window screening to use; this will stand up to the squirrels.

3.  Even though the trap is made of non-corrosive metal it does lose its smoothness if it is kept outside a few years.  Take some steel wool and polish up the metal trap door and the drop-down wire closure.  This will make it close more easily.

4.  I place mine on some mulch and sometimes a squirrel will accidentally pull in a little mulch at the trap door, which will prevent the door from closing enough for it to lock shut.  So, I'm sure to clean that area.

5.  As far as transport is concerned, the squirrel has a real fit when being carried to the vehicle.  But if you place the whole trap into a large black trash bag, the animal immediately goes quiet.  And the bag can protect your vehicle from any urine the squirrel may squirt in its fright.

6.  If you can't transport within several hours, be sure to provide it with some food, even wet bread.  But watch those fingers: a trapped squirrel will come after them.

7.  I don't really worry about giving it a new home in a woods or large park.  I grew up "country" and hunted, skinned and ate fried squirrel in my earlier life.  Fried squirrel is better tasting than fried chicken, in my opinion--and there were no injected hormones.  Transplanting squirrels gives them a chance to survive, but not a chance to dig up your lawn, garden or flower bed and bulbs; they also have a good sense of smell, whether it's finding their own buried treasures or another squirrel's.  Though gray squirrels are said to be very territorial, they sure do encroach on each others territory on my property.

To summarize--equipment needed:

*Trap
*Wire mesh (buy at a hardware store)
*Scissors/tin snips (even a knife) to cut the mesh
*A few (5?) heavy bricks
*A treat:  peanut butter on whatever
*Steel wool--if your trap is not new
*A large, heavy, black-plastic trash bag
I have caught nearly 80 gray squirrels with this trap, so it is not too small--as a couple reviewers have stated. But it does have its quirks:  I learned by my failures and the squirrels successful escapes, which are now rare. Regardless of the size of the cage/trap they all have the same problem:  The space between the see-through wiring is too generous. If a small treat is laid in the center back (or the locked side), the squirrels will simply reach a skinny front leg/arm and pull the item to the side and consume the treat:  In my case it was and is peanut butter on a small piece of bread or cracker. They have even grabbed hold of the cage and pulled it around and over, hoping to lodge the treat in an advantageous spot they can get at. They are very clever, and seem to sense the threat of this closed space. So, here's how to increase the catchability of squirrels:

1. Place bricks tightly up against the outer edge of the cage, being careful not to interfere with the triggering mechanism. Also, place a brick on top of the cage. This eliminates their ability to pull the cage about or--if the ground is soft or it's sitting on mulch--to tunnel under the cage to get at the bait. Yes, they will tunnel for that morsel. 2. But bricks are not enough. They can still reach in through the generous openings in the "screen". So... , get some aluminum window screening/mesh and wrap it around the area where the bait is. Make this long enough to place under the accompanying bricks so they cannot pull it away--plus, the brick on top will help. Now they cannot reach in with their little paws, and have no option but to enter via the trap door. Alas, there is a caveat:  a tenacious squirrel will claw and bite at the aluminum and tear it (don't even consider any plastic mesh) in its desire to get at the morsel you've placed, so you may need to replace it from time to time. Copper mesh would be great, but it's not readily available, unless you can find some old copper window screening to use; this will stand up to the squirrels. 3. Even though the trap is made of non-corrosive metal it does lose its smoothness if it is kept outside a few years. Take some steel wool and polish up the metal trap door and the drop-down wire closure. This will make it close more easily. 4. I place mine on some mulch and sometimes a squirrel will accidentally pull in a little mulch at the trap door, which will prevent the door from closing enough for it to lock shut. So, I'm sure to clean that area. 5. As far as transport is concerned, the squirrel has a real fit when being carried to the vehicle. But if you place the whole trap into a large black trash bag, the animal immediately goes quiet. And the bag can protect your vehicle from any urine the squirrel may squirt in its fright. 6. If you can't transport within several hours, be sure to provide it with some food, even wet bread. But watch those fingers: a trapped squirrel will come after them. 7. I don't really worry about giving it a new home in a woods or large park. I grew up "country" and hunted, skinned and ate fried squirrel in my earlier life. Fried squirrel is better tasting than fried chicken, in my opinion--and there were no injected hormones. Transplanting squirrels gives them a chance to survive, but not a chance to dig up your lawn, garden or flower bed and bulbs; they also have a good sense of smell, whether it's finding their own buried treasures or another squirrel's. Though gray squirrels are said to be very territorial, they sure do encroach on each others territory on my property. To summarize--equipment needed:

*Trap
*Wire mesh (buy at a hardware store)
*Scissors/tin snips (even a knife) to cut the mesh
*A few (5? ) heavy bricks
*A treat:  peanut butter on whatever
*Steel wool--if your trap is not new
*A large, heavy, black-plastic trash bag