, ▁generally ▁of ▁a ▁contrast ing ▁fabric . ▁Cost umes ▁consisting ▁of ▁a ▁coat , ▁wa ist co at ▁and ▁tr ous ers ▁of ▁the ▁same ▁fabric ▁( called ▁a ▁" d itto ▁suit ") ▁remained ▁a ▁novel ty ▁at ▁this ▁time . ▁ ▁In ▁domestic ▁settings , ▁the ▁s ack ▁coat ▁or ▁a ▁l oun ge ▁jack et ▁could ▁be ▁worn ▁with ▁a ▁wa ist co at ▁and ▁tr ous ers ▁of ▁the ▁same ▁fabric . ▁ ▁This ▁form ▁of ▁dit to ▁suit , ▁referred ▁to ▁as ▁a ▁l oun ge ▁suit ▁in ▁the ▁United ▁Kingdom ▁was ▁generally ▁made ▁of ▁w ool , ▁with ▁bag gy ▁tail oring . ▁ ▁However , ▁the ▁l oun ge ▁suit ▁was ▁not ▁considered ▁appropriate ▁for ▁public ▁settings ▁until ▁the ▁ 1 8 7 0 s . ▁ ▁Over co ats ▁had ▁wide ▁lap els ▁and ▁deep ▁cu ff s , ▁and ▁often ▁featured ▁contrast ing ▁vel vet ▁coll ars . ▁ ▁Top ▁h ats ▁briefly ▁became ▁the ▁very ▁tall ▁" st ove pipe " ▁shape , ▁but ▁a ▁variety ▁of ▁other ▁hat ▁shapes ▁were ▁popular . ▁During ▁this ▁time , ▁the ▁bow ler ▁hat ▁gained ▁popular ity ▁as ▁an ▁inform al ▁hat . ▁This ▁new ▁type ▁of ▁hat ▁was ▁normally ▁made ▁of ▁felt , ▁black ▁for ▁most ▁of ▁the ▁year ▁or ▁brown ▁for ▁the ▁summer ▁months . ▁ ▁In ▁ 1 8 6 5 ▁hat maker ▁John ▁B . ▁St et son ▁invent ed ▁the ▁B oss ▁of ▁the ▁Pla ins ▁hat . ▁It ▁gained