▁p ett ico at ▁partially ▁covered ▁in ▁fabric , ▁came ▁in ▁bright ▁colors ▁made ▁possible ▁by ▁the ▁new ▁an il ine ▁d yes . ▁This ▁was ▁followed ▁by ▁a ▁hy brid ▁of ▁the ▁b ust le ▁and ▁cr in oline ▁sometimes ▁called ▁a ▁" cr ino lette ". ▁The ▁c age ▁structure ▁was ▁still ▁attached ▁around ▁the ▁wa ist ▁and ▁extended ▁down ▁to ▁the ▁ground , ▁but ▁only ▁extended ▁down ▁the ▁back ▁of ▁the ▁wear er ' s ▁legs . ▁The ▁cr ino lette ▁itself ▁was ▁quickly ▁su pers eded ▁by ▁the ▁true ▁b ust le , ▁which ▁was ▁sufficient ▁for ▁supporting ▁the ▁dra per y ▁and ▁train ▁at ▁the ▁back ▁of ▁the ▁sk irt . ▁Under ▁the ▁cor set , ▁a ▁chem ise ▁was ▁worn . ▁A ▁chem ise ▁is ▁typically ▁short ▁sle e ve ▁and ▁kne e ▁length ▁made ▁of ▁lin en ▁or ▁cot ton . ▁The ▁chem ise ▁and ▁stock ings ▁worn ▁were ▁meant ▁to ▁so ak ▁up ▁any ▁pers p iration ▁and ▁protect ing ▁the ▁outer ▁cl othing . ▁Due ▁to ▁the ▁many ▁layers ▁of ▁dress , ▁the ▁women ▁of ▁the ▁southern ▁el ite ▁would ▁take ▁short ▁n aps ▁to ▁rest ▁from ▁we aring ▁their ▁large ▁dress ▁and ▁escape ▁the ▁har sh ▁southern ▁heat ▁and ▁the ▁const ra ining ▁wh ale bone ▁cor sets . ▁ ▁Military ▁and ▁political ▁influ ences ▁The ▁Gar ib ald i ▁sh irt ▁or ▁" G ar ib ald i ▁jack et " ▁was ▁popular ized ▁by ▁Em press ▁Eug én ie ▁of ▁France