- cons cious ; ▁third , ▁j ew el ry ▁lost ▁its ▁exclus iveness ▁to ▁one ▁sex ▁or ▁age ▁- ▁it ▁could ▁be ▁worn ▁by ▁men , ▁women ▁and ▁children ." ▁ ▁Arts ▁and ▁craft s ▁j ew el ry ▁▁ ▁The ▁art ▁j ew el ry ▁that ▁emer ged ▁in ▁the ▁first ▁years ▁of ▁the ▁tw enti eth ▁century ▁was ▁a ▁reaction ▁to ▁Victor ian ▁taste , ▁and ▁the ▁heavy ▁and ▁orn ate ▁j ew el ry , ▁often ▁machine ▁manufact ured , ▁that ▁was ▁popular ▁in ▁the ▁nin ete enth ▁century . ▁According ▁to ▁E ly se ▁Z orn ▁Kar lin , ▁" For ▁most ▁j ew el ers , ▁art ▁j ew el ry ▁was ▁a ▁personal ▁art istic ▁quest ▁as ▁well ▁as ▁a ▁search ▁for ▁a ▁new ▁national ▁identity . ▁Based ▁on ▁a ▁combination ▁of ▁historical ▁references , ▁re actions ▁to ▁regional ▁and ▁world ▁events , ▁newly ▁available ▁materials ▁and ▁other ▁factors , ▁art ▁j ew el ry ▁reflected ▁a ▁country ' s ▁identity ▁while ▁at ▁the ▁same ▁time ▁being ▁part ▁of ▁a ▁larger ▁international ▁movement ▁of ▁design ▁reform ." ▁Initial ly ▁art ▁j ew el ry ▁appe aled ▁to ▁a ▁select ▁group ▁of ▁clients ▁with ▁art istic ▁taste , ▁but ▁it ▁was ▁quickly ▁picked ▁up ▁by ▁commercial ▁fir ms , ▁making ▁it ▁widely ▁available . ▁ ▁There ▁are ▁many ▁different ▁movements ▁that ▁contributed ▁to ▁the ▁category ▁of ▁art ▁j ew el ry ▁as ▁we ▁know ▁it ▁today . ▁As ▁part ▁of ▁the ▁English ▁Arts ▁and ▁C raft s