ctions ▁of ▁high ▁fashion ▁with ▁their ▁emphas is ▁on ▁rig id ▁cor sets ▁and ▁ho ops ▁as ▁both ▁ugly ▁and ▁d ish on est . ▁An ▁" anti - f ashion " ▁for ▁Art istic ▁dress ▁spread ▁in ▁the ▁ 1 8 6 0 s ▁in ▁literary ▁and ▁art istic ▁circles , ▁and ▁remained ▁an ▁under current ▁for ▁the ▁rest ▁of ▁the ▁century . ▁The ▁style ▁was ▁character ised ▁by ▁" med ieval " ▁influ ences ▁such ▁as ▁jul iet te ▁sle e ves , ▁the ▁soft ▁colors ▁of ▁veget able ▁d yes , ▁narrow ▁sk ir ts , ▁and ▁simple ▁orn ament ation ▁with ▁hand ▁emb roid ery . ▁Material ▁used ▁in ▁the ▁southern ▁American ▁el ite ▁were ▁sil k , ▁vel vet , ▁mus lin ▁and ▁fine ▁la wn . ▁ ▁Ha irst yles ▁and ▁head ge ar ▁H air ▁was ▁worn ▁part ed ▁in ▁the ▁middle ▁and ▁smooth ed , ▁w aved , ▁or ▁po of ed ▁over ▁the ▁ears , ▁then ▁bra ided ▁or ▁" turn ed ▁up " ▁and ▁p inned ▁into ▁a ▁roll ▁or ▁low ▁b un ▁at ▁the ▁back ▁of ▁the ▁neck . ▁Such ▁sty ling ▁was ▁usually ▁maintained ▁by ▁the ▁use ▁of ▁hair ▁o ils ▁and ▁pom ades . ▁ ▁St y led ▁hair ▁was ▁often ▁further ▁conf ined ▁in ▁decor ative ▁hair net s , ▁especially ▁by ▁younger ▁women . ▁ ▁( NOT E : ▁Although ▁many ▁modern ▁re en act ors ▁refer ▁to ▁this ▁gar ment ▁as ▁a ▁" s no od ",