▁a est het ically ▁challeng ing ▁nature ▁( to o ▁frag ile ▁and ▁out rage ous ). ▁However , ▁it ▁marks ▁a ▁significant ▁break ▁with ▁what ▁came ▁before , ▁and ▁laid ▁down ▁many ▁of ▁the ▁values ▁and ▁att itudes ▁for ▁later ▁tw enti eth ▁century ▁ide als ▁of ▁art ▁or ▁studio ▁j ew el ry . ▁As ▁E ly se ▁Z orn ▁Kar lin ▁writes , ▁" Art ▁j ew el ry ▁val ued ▁the ▁hand made ▁and ▁pri zed ▁innov ative ▁thinking ▁and ▁cre ative ▁expression . ▁These ▁j ew el ers ▁were ▁the ▁first ▁to ▁use ▁materials ▁that ▁didn ' t ▁have ▁the ▁intr insic ▁value ▁expected ▁in ▁j ew el ry , ▁and ▁they ▁rejected ▁main stream ▁j ew el ry ▁t ast es . ▁They ▁thought ▁of ▁their ▁work ▁as ▁an ▁art istic ▁purs uit ▁and ▁made ▁it ▁for ▁a ▁small ▁audience ▁that ▁shared ▁their ▁a est h etic ▁and ▁concept ual ▁values ." ▁ ▁Modern ist ▁j ew el ry ▁▁ ▁The ▁history ▁of ▁art ▁j ew el ry ▁is ▁tied ▁to ▁the ▁emer gence ▁of ▁modern ist ▁j ew el ry ▁in ▁urban ▁cent ers ▁of ▁the ▁United ▁States ▁in ▁the ▁ 1 9 4 0 s . ▁According ▁to ▁T oni ▁Green baum , ▁" Begin ning ▁about ▁ 1 9 4 0 , ▁a ▁revolution ary ▁j ew el ry ▁movement ▁began ▁to ▁emer ge ▁in ▁the ▁United ▁States , ▁and ▁this ▁was ▁then ▁sp ur red ▁on ▁by ▁the ▁dev ast ation ▁of ▁World