▁in ▁ 1 8 6 0 . ▁ ▁These ▁bright ▁red ▁w ool en ▁gar ments ▁featured ▁black ▁emb roid ery ▁or ▁bra id ▁and ▁military ▁details . ▁ ▁Following ▁a ▁visit ▁by ▁the ▁Italian ▁revolution ary ▁Giuseppe ▁Gar ib ald i ▁to ▁England ▁in ▁ 1 8 6 3 , ▁the ▁sh irt ▁became ▁all ▁the ▁ra ge ▁there . ▁In ▁America , ▁the ▁early ▁years ▁of ▁the ▁Civil ▁War ▁also ▁saw ▁increased ▁popular ity ▁of ▁military - infl uen ced ▁styles ▁such ▁as ▁Z ou ave ▁jack ets . ▁These ▁new ▁styles ▁were ▁worn ▁over ▁a ▁wa ist ▁( bl ouse ) ▁or ▁chem is ette ▁and ▁a ▁sk irt ▁with ▁a ▁bel t ▁at ▁the ▁natural ▁wa ist line . ▁Women ' s ▁fashion ▁overall ▁was ▁highly ▁influenced ▁by ▁the ▁reign ing ▁Queen ▁Victoria ▁of ▁England . ▁ ▁R ise ▁of ▁ha ute ▁cout ure ▁The ▁English man ▁Charles ▁Frederick ▁W orth ▁had ▁established ▁his ▁first ▁fashion ▁house ▁in ▁Paris ▁in ▁ 1 8 5 8 . ▁He ▁was ▁the ▁first ▁cout ur ier , ▁a ▁dress maker ▁considered ▁an ▁artist , ▁and ▁his ▁ability ▁to ▁dict ate ▁design ▁in ▁the ▁ 1 8 6 0 s ▁led ▁to ▁the ▁domin ance ▁of ▁Paris ian ▁ha ute ▁cout ure ▁for ▁the ▁next ▁hundred ▁years . ▁ ▁Art istic ▁dress ▁The ▁follow ers ▁of ▁the ▁Pre - R ap ha el ite ▁Bro ther hood ▁and ▁other ▁art istic ▁reform ers ▁object ed ▁to ▁the ▁elabor ately ▁trim med ▁con fe