▁Young ▁fla ppers ▁took ▁to ▁these ▁styles ▁of ▁under we ar ▁due ▁to ▁the ▁ability ▁to ▁move ▁more ▁freely ▁and ▁the ▁increased ▁comfort ▁when ▁dan cing ▁to ▁the ▁high ▁tempo ▁jazz ▁music . ▁During ▁the ▁mid - 1 9 2 0 s , ▁all - in - one ▁l inger ie ▁became ▁popular . ▁ ▁For ▁the ▁first ▁time ▁in ▁centuries , ▁women ' s ▁legs ▁were ▁seen ▁with ▁hem lines ▁rising ▁to ▁the ▁kne e ▁and ▁dress es ▁becoming ▁more ▁fitted . ▁A ▁more ▁mascul ine ▁look ▁became ▁popular , ▁including ▁fl atten ed ▁bre asts ▁and ▁h ips , ▁short ▁ha irst yles ▁such ▁as ▁the ▁b ob ▁cut , ▁E ton ▁c rop , ▁and ▁the ▁Marcel ▁wave . ▁The ▁fashion ▁was ▁seen ▁as ▁express ing ▁a ▁bo hem ian ▁and ▁progress ive ▁out look . ▁ ▁One ▁of ▁the ▁first ▁women ▁to ▁wear ▁tr ous ers , ▁cut ▁her ▁hair ▁short , ▁and ▁reject ▁the ▁cor set ▁was ▁C oco ▁Ch anel . ▁Probably ▁the ▁most ▁influ ential ▁woman ▁in ▁fashion ▁of ▁the ▁ 2 0 th ▁century , ▁Ch anel ▁did ▁much ▁to ▁further ▁the ▁em an cip ation ▁and ▁freedom ▁of ▁women ' s ▁fashion . ▁ ▁Jean ▁Pat ou , ▁a ▁new ▁designer ▁on ▁the ▁French ▁scene , ▁began ▁making ▁two - pie ce ▁swe ater ▁and ▁sk irt ▁out f its ▁in ▁lux ur ious ▁w ool ▁j er sey ▁and ▁had ▁an ▁instant ▁hit ▁for ▁his ▁morning ▁dress es ▁and ▁sports ▁su its .