ipe ▁Bo ž ić ▁b iv ou ack ed ▁at ▁ 8 3 0 0 ▁meters . ▁The ▁next ▁day , ▁Ang ▁Ph u ▁fell ▁on ▁the ▁way ▁down ▁and ▁died . ▁▁ ▁German ▁expedition , ▁called ▁the ▁ 1 9 7 9 ▁Sw ab ian ▁Ex ped ition ▁; ▁death ▁of ▁Ray ▁Gen et ▁and ▁H annel ore ▁Sch mat z . ▁▁▁ 1 9 8 0 : ▁First ▁winter ▁as cent ▁▁▁ ▁February ▁ 1 7 ▁– ▁First ▁winter ▁as cent ▁by ▁And r zej ▁Z aw ada ' s ▁team ▁from ▁Poland : ▁Les zek ▁C ich y ▁and ▁Kr z ysz to f ▁Wiel icki . ▁This ▁was ▁also ▁the ▁first ▁winter ▁sum mit ▁of ▁any ▁of ▁the ▁world ' s ▁four teen ▁ 8 0 0 0 ▁met re ▁pe aks . ▁▁ ▁May ▁ 1 9 ▁– ▁New ▁clim bing ▁route ▁on ▁the ▁south ▁face ▁by ▁Pol es ▁And r zej ▁Cz ok ▁and ▁Jer zy ▁K uk uc z ka . ▁▁ ▁August ▁ 2 0 ▁– ▁Rein hold ▁Mess ner ▁became ▁the ▁first ▁to ▁clim b ▁Ever est ▁solo ▁and ▁without ▁o xygen ▁t anks . ▁He ▁pione ered ▁a ▁new ▁route ▁on ▁the ▁north ▁col / face , ▁roughly ▁continu ing ▁Fin ch ' s ▁clim b ▁in ▁ 1 9 2 2 . ▁He ▁tra ve led ▁the ▁North west ▁route ▁for ▁three ▁days ▁entirely ▁alone ▁from ▁his ▁base ▁camp ▁at ▁. ▁▁ ▁Tak ashi ▁O z aki ▁and ▁Ts une o ▁Sh