row ▁Wilson ▁Say re ▁and ▁three ▁colle agues ▁made ▁an ▁illegal ▁inc urs ion ▁into ▁China ▁from ▁Nep al ▁and ▁reached ▁about ▁ ▁on ▁the ▁North ▁R idge ▁before ▁turning ▁back ▁from ▁exhaust ion . ▁The ▁attempt ▁was ▁documented ▁in ▁a ▁book ▁by ▁Say re ▁entitled ▁Four ▁Again st ▁Ever est . ▁▁ 1 9 6 3 ▁▁▁▁▁ ▁First ▁as cent ▁by ▁an ▁American : ▁Jim ▁Wh itt aker , ▁accompanied ▁by ▁N aw ang ▁G om bu ▁Sher pa ▁who , ▁in ▁ 1 9 6 5 , ▁became ▁the ▁first ▁man ▁to ▁clim b ▁Ever est ▁twice ; ▁first ▁as cent ▁of ▁the ▁West ▁R idge ▁on ▁May ▁ 2 2 ▁by ▁Americans ▁Tom ▁Horn be in ▁and ▁Will i ▁Un so eld . ▁Horn be in ▁and ▁Un so eld ▁desc ended ▁by ▁the ▁South ▁Col , ▁making ▁the ▁as cent ▁the ▁first ▁traverse ▁of ▁Ever est . ▁▁ 1 9 6 5 ▁▁▁▁ ▁On ▁May ▁ 2 0 , ▁a ▁ 2 1 - man ▁Indian ▁expedition , ▁led ▁by ▁Lieutenant ▁Commander ▁M . S . ▁Koh li ▁Lieutenant ▁Commander ▁Captain ▁M ▁S ▁Koh li , ▁succeeded ▁in ▁putting ▁nine ▁men ▁on ▁the ▁sum mit . ▁N aw ang ▁G om bu ▁became ▁the ▁first ▁person ▁to ▁reach ▁the ▁sum mit ▁twice , ▁first ly ▁with ▁an ▁American ▁expedition ▁in ▁ 1 9 6 3 . ▁▁ 1 9 6 9 ▁▁▁ ▁Two ▁reconna issance ▁exped itions ▁were ▁undert aken ▁in ▁prepar ation ▁for ▁the ▁sum mit ▁expedition ▁of