▁only ▁business ▁in ▁Ira q ▁that ▁is ▁th riv ing ▁– ▁g ym s ▁are ▁seeing ▁a ▁significant ▁increase ▁in ▁members hips ▁as ▁men ▁f lock ▁to ▁gain ▁mus cle ▁in ▁hopes ▁of ▁getting ▁a ▁well - pay ing ▁job ▁in ▁security . ▁At ▁a ▁heavy ▁metal ▁concert , ▁Bu ñ uel ▁meets ▁some ▁reb elli ous ▁Ira qi ▁men ▁whose ▁love ▁for ▁death ▁metal , ▁long ▁hair ▁and ▁sh ag gy ▁be ards ▁can ▁put ▁them ▁at ▁odd s ▁with ▁more ▁conserv ative ▁Ira q is . ▁He ▁witness es ▁a ▁ 1 , 3 0 0 - year - old ▁bur ial ▁rit ual ▁at ▁one ▁of ▁the ▁world ' s ▁largest ▁ne c ropol ises ▁with ▁millions ▁of ▁people ▁buried ▁in ▁Naj af , ▁and ▁also ▁vis its ▁a ▁tort ure ▁museum ▁in ▁Sul ay man iy ah ▁to ▁remember ▁at roc ities ▁committed ▁against ▁Ira qi ▁Kur ds . ▁ ▁Iran ▁ ▁Bu ñ uel ▁checks ▁out ▁an ▁under ground ▁rap ▁show ▁in ▁Te h ran , ▁featuring ▁a ▁performance ▁by ▁a ▁local ▁mul lah ' s ▁son . ▁With ▁a ▁huge ▁following ▁and ▁represent atives ▁from ▁more ▁than ▁ 3 0 ▁countries , ▁he ▁att ends ▁the ▁Olympics ▁of ▁Kor an ▁reading ▁where ▁participants ▁memor ise ▁and ▁rec ite ▁entire ▁chap ters ▁of ▁the ▁Kor an ▁from ▁heart . ▁Me eting ▁with ▁a ▁Jewish ▁anti ques ▁deal er ▁in ▁Te h ran , ▁he ▁shares ▁alco hol ▁made ▁from ▁g rap es ▁before ▁visit ing ▁one ▁of ▁the