7 5 ▁miles ▁away ▁from ▁Y os em ite ▁Valley , ▁and ▁it ▁takes ▁well ▁over ▁two ▁hours ▁to ▁drive ▁there . ▁ ▁Lisa ▁Marg on elli , ▁an ▁Ir v ine ▁Fellow ▁at ▁New ▁America ▁Foundation ▁observed ▁in ▁the ▁pages ▁of ▁The ▁Atlantic ▁that ▁the ▁" d eli " ▁is ▁actually ▁a ▁" nut til y ▁g our met ▁kitchen ▁that ▁turns ▁out ▁huge ▁plate ful s ▁of ▁food ," ▁and ▁that ▁" the ▁deli ▁is ▁a ▁continuous ▁party ▁all ▁summer ▁long ." ▁ ▁The ▁San ▁Mar cos ▁Daily ▁Record ▁of ▁Texas ▁said ▁that ▁Who a ▁Nell ie ▁D eli ▁is ▁an ▁" exception al ▁eat ery " ▁that ▁" off ers ▁unexpected ▁surpr ises ▁with ▁great ▁se lections ▁of ▁fine ▁food s ." ▁ ▁The ▁Los ▁Angeles ▁Times ▁described ▁chef ▁Matt ▁To ome y ▁as ▁" a ▁man ic ▁figure ▁in ▁a ▁white ▁chef ' s ▁jack et ▁and ▁a ▁baseball ▁cap " ▁whose ▁" char is ma ▁and ▁sense ▁of ▁humor ▁are ▁reflected ▁in ▁his ▁cook ing ." ▁ ▁The ▁apr ic ot ▁and ▁wild ▁ber ry ▁gla zed ▁p ork ▁lo in ▁and ▁the ▁top ▁sir lo in ▁ste ak ▁with ▁a ▁dozen ▁gr illed ▁sh rim p ▁were ▁described ▁as ▁" be aut iful ly ▁presented ▁and ▁cook ed ▁to ▁per fection ." ▁The ▁d ining ▁experience ▁was ▁summar ized ▁this ▁way : ▁" To ▁have ▁one ▁of ▁the ▁better ▁me als ▁of ▁your ▁life ▁in ▁a ▁gas ▁station ▁is ▁b izar re . ▁ ▁It ▁leaves ▁you