anced ▁by ▁the ▁newly ▁formed ▁Mount ▁Ever est ▁Committee — c ame ▁under ▁the ▁leadership ▁of ▁Colonel ▁Charles ▁Howard - B ury , ▁with ▁Harold ▁Ra eb urn ▁as ▁mount aine ering ▁leader , ▁and ▁included ▁George ▁Mall ory , ▁Guy ▁Bul lock , ▁and ▁Edward ▁Oliver ▁Whe eler . ▁It ▁was ▁primarily ▁for ▁mapping ▁and ▁reconna issance ▁to ▁discover ▁whether ▁a ▁route ▁to ▁the ▁sum mit ▁could ▁be ▁found ▁from ▁the ▁north ▁side . ▁As ▁the ▁health ▁of ▁Ra eb urn ▁broke ▁down , ▁Mall ory ▁assumed ▁responsibility ▁for ▁most ▁of ▁the ▁expl oration ▁to ▁the ▁north ▁and ▁east ▁of ▁the ▁mountain . ▁He ▁wrote ▁to ▁his ▁wife : ▁" We ▁are ▁about ▁to ▁walk ▁off ▁the ▁map ..." ▁After ▁five ▁months ▁of ▁ar du ous ▁clim bing ▁around ▁the ▁base ▁of ▁the ▁mountain , ▁Whe eler ▁expl ored ▁the ▁hidden ▁East ▁R ong bu k ▁Gla cier ▁and ▁its ▁route ▁to ▁the ▁base ▁of ▁the ▁North ▁Col . ▁On ▁September ▁ 2 3 , ▁Mall ory ▁became ▁the ▁first ▁person ▁to ▁set ▁foot ▁on ▁the ▁mountain ▁and ▁he , ▁Bul lock , ▁and ▁Whe eler ▁reached ▁the ▁North ▁Col ▁at ▁ ▁before ▁being ▁forced ▁back ▁by ▁strong ▁wind s . ▁To ▁Mall ory ' s ▁experienced ▁eye , ▁the ▁route ▁up ▁the ▁North ▁r idge ▁intersect ing ▁the ▁NE ▁R idge ▁and ▁from ▁there ▁to ▁the ▁sum mit ▁looked ▁long , ▁but ▁feas ible ▁for ▁a ▁fres her ▁party . ▁▁ 1 9 2 2 : ▁First ▁attempt ▁▁ ▁The ▁second