▁in ▁men ' s ▁fashion . ▁ ▁Sh ir ts ▁and ▁c rav ats ▁Sh ir ts ▁of ▁lin en ▁or ▁cot ton ▁featured ▁tall ▁standing ▁coll ars ▁and ▁were ▁worn ▁with ▁wide ▁c rav ats ▁tied ▁in ▁a ▁soft ▁bow . ▁ ▁Co ats ▁and ▁wa ist co ats ▁Ar ound ▁ 1 8 2 0 , ▁co ats ▁began ▁to ▁be ▁made ▁in ▁an ▁entirely ▁new ▁way . ▁The ▁t ails ▁and ▁lap els ▁were ▁cut ▁separately ▁and ▁subsequently ▁attached ▁to ▁the ▁coat . ▁This ▁ens ured ▁a ▁better ▁fit , ▁a ▁greater ▁following ▁of ▁the ▁body ' s ▁cont ours , ▁and ▁more ▁consistent ▁position ing , ▁even ▁when ▁the ▁coat ▁was ▁un button ed . ▁The ▁t ails ▁themselves ▁were ▁narrow , ▁pointed , ▁and ▁fell ▁just ▁below ▁the ▁kne e . ▁The ▁shoulders ▁were ▁broad ▁and ▁the ▁coat ▁stood ▁of ▁the ▁ch est , ▁yet ▁was ▁sn ug ▁at ▁the ▁wa ist . ▁Co ats ▁also ▁were ▁p added ▁at ▁the ▁ch est ▁and ▁wa ist . ▁The ▁coll ars ▁and ▁lap els ▁were ▁also ▁p added ▁in ▁order ▁to ▁st iff en ▁them . ▁▁▁ ▁The ▁coll ars ▁were ▁high ▁and ▁sh aw l - like ▁in ▁order ▁to ▁frame ▁the ▁face . ▁Co ats ▁were ▁cut ▁straight ▁across ▁the ▁wa ist . ▁Wa ist co ats ▁were ▁button ed ▁high ▁on ▁the ▁ch est . ▁ ▁C ut away ▁co ats ▁were ▁worn ▁as ▁in ▁the ▁previous ▁period ▁for ▁formal ▁day we ar , ▁but ▁the