Kwambarira ku mapamba, kuba munini...: Menya amwe mu mabanga y'abanyamideli
Kuki abanyamideli banini bagira mu nda hato? Ushobora kunogerwa no kwambara imyenda ishaje? Gukora imyenda kaba ari akazi gafite ingaruka mbi ku buzima?
Hari byinshi tutazi bijyanye no kumurika imideli Umunyamakuru wa BBC Charli Howard - unazwi ku kazi akora ko kumurika imideli nk'umuntu munini ndetse akaba ari n'impirimbanyi iharanira ko abantu bose bahabwa agaciro nubwo baba bateye mu buryo butandukanye - yakoze iperereza ku bijyanye n'imideli. Ku isonga ry'ibyo yari agamije hari iki? Gutahura imyambarire ishyize mu gaciro ku bantu kandi itabangamiye n'isi dutuye... kandi muri iryo perereza rye yatahuye bimwe mu bintu atari yiteze: 1. Bamwe mu banyamideli bambara ibintu by'amapamba ngo bagaragare ko ari banini Charli (ibumoso) ari kumwe n'inshuti ye Sonny Turner nayo imurika imideli Charli yavuganye na mugenzi we w'umunyamideli - akaba n'inshuti ye - witwa Sonny Turner wambara nimero 16 ku myambaro ye, icyo gipimo kikaba ari cyo cya rusange ku ikanzu mu Bwongereza. Ariko afatwa nkaho ari "umuntu munini" - bivuze ko ari umuntu ufite ingano iruta isanzwe (bitavuze ko byanze bikunze ari umuntu ufite umubyibuho ukabije). Sonny ati: "Uruganda rw'imideli rushaka kubamo abantu b'ingeri zitandukanye, ariko zidatandukanye cyane". "Bashaka abakobwa banini kurushaho... ariko bashaka abakobwa bafite amaguru manini, amayunguyungu manini [na], amabere manini. Ntabwo bashaka umuntu ufite mu maso hanini". Rero amakompanyi akora mu byo kumurika imideli akoresha abanyamideli bananutse bambaye ibintu by'amapamba ku bice by'umubiri byabo bitwikiriye, nkuko Charli abivuga. Yibuka ko hari "ibintu by'inziga ushyira ku mpande inyuma mu ipantaro yawe ngo bitume ugaragara ko ubyibushye". 2. Kumurika imideli by'abambara bikwije bibarirwamo agaciro ka za miliyari z'amadolari Mariah Idrissi ni umwe mu banyamideli ba mbere bakomeye bambaye umwitandiro wabo ujyanye n'idini rya kisilamu Umunyamideli Mariah Idrissi w'umuyisilamu yabaye umwe mu banyamideli ba mbere bambaye umwitandiro wabo mu gikorwa gikomeye cyo kwamamaza imideli. Icyo gihe yamurikiraga inzu y'imideli ya H&M mu 2015. Yabwiye umunyamakuru wa BBC Charli ko uruganda ruciriritse mu by'imideli - ni ukuvuga uburyo bumurika imideli abayimurika bambaye ibitabafatiriye cyane cyangwa bitabambika ubusa - ruri gukura cyane. Icyegeranyo cyo mu mwaka wa 2018 gihuriweho na kompanyi yo muri Amerika DinarStandard yiga kuri gahunda z'ubucuruzi ndetse n'ibiro ntaramakuru Reuters, cyarebye gusa ku kumurika imideli bikorwa n'abayisilamu, cyasanze ko abaguzi batanze agera kuri miliyari 270 z'amadolari ku myambaro bamurika y'abambara bikwije mu mwaka wa 2017. Biteganyijwe ko ibicuruzwa byo muri urwo rwego bizasarura mu baguzi agera kuri miliyari 361 mu mwaka wa 2023. Ariko ibyo by'abanyamideli bamurika imyambaro idafatiriye ku mubiri cyane bikomeje kwamamara, bititaye ku idini runaka. Icyegeranyo cyakozwe n'inzu y'imyambaro John Lewis yo mu Bwongereza kivuga ko abaguzi bo mu Bwongereza ubu bibanda kuri "'styles' [imyambarire] ndende kandi zirekuye" kurusha "imyambaro ifatiriye cyane". Mariah ati: "Kwambara ibirekuye ni yo mibereho rwose...Niba ushaka kwambara mu buryo burushijeho koroshya, ibyo ni byiza...Ariko kuri jye nk'Umuyisilamu, binajyanye n'idini ryanjye kwambara nicishe bugufi". 3. Ukunda ibya kera ariko ugakunda no kumurika ku rubuga rwa internet ibyo waguze? Wigira ikibazo! Charli yambaye ikanzu yo kuri modeli ya kera Igikorwa cyo kumurika mu buryo bwa videwo - abantu bifata amashusho bapfundura ibyo baguze bagashyira videwo ku rubuga rwa internet - gikundwa n'abantu babarirwa muri za miliyoni. Ariko Charli yatahuye ko hari ubundi bwoko bw'ubwo buryo, bwagizwemo uruhare na rwiyemezamirimo mu by'imideli wongera kugurisha ibintu kuri internet witwa Bella McFadden, unazwi ku izina rya @internetgirl. Bella yakoze ubucuruzi bwe bwo gucuruza imyambaro ya kera abinyujije ku rubuga rwo kongera kugurishirizaho rwitwa Depop. Ubwo buryo butuma abakiliya bashobora kuryoherwa no gufungura ibyo baguze bakabyereka ababakurikiye kuri internet babikoze mu buryo bwa videwo, ndetse bitabangamiye ibidukikije kuko iyo myenda iba ari iya sekeni ('second-hand'), bivuze ko hakoreshwa ibintu bicye. 4. Kugaragazwa mu bundi buryo kw'ipantalo yawe ukunda? Ibyo bishobora kugira ingaruka ku bakozi babikora Charli yifotoza yambaye ipantalo igaragara nkaho yambawe mbere Abakunzi b'imideli bazi ko ibigezweho byo gukunda amapantalo y'amakoboyi (jeans) ashaje cyangwa ama-déchiré, atari ibya none. Ariko wari uzi ko uburyo bukoreshwa mu kuyakora kuriya bushobora kugira ingaruka ku bantu bayakora? Tansy Hoskins, umunyamakuru ukurikirana iby'imideli akaba n'umwanditsi, avuga bumwe mu buryo bumenyerewe cyane buzwi nka 'sandblasting' ari bwo bukoreshwa. Ni uburyo bwo gushyira ku myambaro umucanga ushyushye cyane. Kubera ko buhendutse kandi bwihuse, ubwo buryo bukoreshwa cyane na nyinshi mu nganda zikora imyambaro - ariko ikibazo ni uko bushobora gutera ibibazo bikomeye byo mu myanya y'ubuhumekero ku bakozi bo mu nganda. Tansy ati: "'Sandblasting' ni uburyo bubi cyane. Butuma habaho uduce duto cyane tw'umukungugu n'utuvungukira [tujya mu mwuka]". "Ugiye muri izi nganda, n'uyu munsi, usanga abantu bamwe bahawe ibyo kwipfuka ('masks') naho abandi ntabyo bahawe. Abakozi bahumeka uwo mukungugu wose: uhita ujya mu bihaha byabo". Mu bihugu byinshi - nko mu Misiri, Pakistani, Bangladesh n'Ubushinwa - hari amategeko macye cyane yo kurinda abakozi bo mu nganda nk'izo. Kandi n'ahakoreshwa ubundi buryo busimbura ubwo, nabwo butera ibindi bibazo: muri Turukiya, inganda zikoresha uburyo bwo kumeshesha amapantalo ikinyabutabire cya 'potassium permanganate'. Ariko Tansy avuga ko ubwo buryo bushobora "gutera ibibazo bikomeye cyane ku mubiri w'abakozi". Ubundi buryo nabwo - nko gukoresha intoki mu gushyira umucanga kuri ayo mapantalo bukoreshwa cyane muri Vietnam - nabwo bushobora guteza umukungugu mubi ku buzima bwa muntu, mu gihe ubundi bwa gakondo kurushaho bwo kumeshesha amabuye ipantalo nabwo bukoresha amazi menshi cyane. 5. Niba wibwira ko za plastike nto cyane ziteye ikibazo...za plastike zimwe ni na ntoya cyane kuburyo udashobora gupima ingano yazo Izi plastike zakoreshejwe zizaba nto bingana gute uko igihe kigenda gishira? Za plastike nto cyane, akenshi ziva ku bikoresho byo gukora imyenda, mu myaka ya vuba ishize zagarutsweho mu bitangazamakuru nk'ikintu cy'ibanze gihumanya ikirere. Ibyo tubikesha, ku gice gito, ubushakashatsi bwakozwe na Dr Mark Browne, impuguke mu mibanire ya muntu n'ibindi binyabuzima abana nabyo, akaba ari n'umwarimu kuri Kaminuza ya South Wales muri Australia. Amaze igihe akora ubushakashatsi muri urwo rwego. Mark avuga ko uko uburyo bwo gupima bugenda burushaho gutanga ibipimo nyabyo, n'utwo duce duto cyane kurushaho twa za plastike tuzatahurwa. Atanga ubutumwa ku bantu ko bakwiye kumenya ko ibyo dukoresha buri munsi, uko igihe kigenda gishira byicamo uduce duto cyane natwo twicamo utundi duce duto cyane, kandi ko dushobora guteza ibibazo ku buzima. 6. Abagena iforoma y'imyambaro n'abafotozi bakora ubucuruzi mu ibanga Ushobora gutahura ko iyi foto yafashwe n'umufotozi uzwi cyane? Giulia Mensitieri ni impuguke mu miterere n'imihindagurikire y'imibereho ya muntu, wanditse igitabo gihishura uguhembwa umushahara muto ku banyamideli bakora mu kumurika imideli ihenze. Avuga ko abantu barimo nk'abagena iforoma y'imideli ('stylists') n'abafotozi bakorera inzu z'imideli zikomeye, akenshi bahembwa intica ntikize, ubundi bakaba bahembwa ibicuruzwa, cyangwa se ntibanahembwe. Mu kwirwanaho kubera umushahara muto, bamwe bakorera inzu zikomeye z'ubucuruzi... ariko bakabikora bakoresheje amazina mahimbano atari ayo basanzwe bakoresha mu by'imideli. Charli avuga ko impamvu ari uko "bikurinda kubona akazi" mu yandi makompanyi atishyura.