In September 1991, 4 generation Honda Prelude was launched, which got a new H series of sports Honda engines. This series included two engines: H22 and H23.
The H22 engine got a 4-cylinder aluminum cylinder block, its cylinder wall was lined with FRM coating. The H22 cylinder block height was 219.5 mm. Until 1997 all H22A used closed deck cylinder blocks, and 1997 to 2001 — open deck cylinder block.
A 90.7 mm stroke crankshaft and balancer shafts were installed. H22A piston rod length was 143 mm, the bore was 87 mm, and their compression height was 31 mm. This provides the displacement of 2.2 l.
The H22A engine uses a 16 valve DOHC head. This was a sports engine, therefore, variable valve timing and lift system VTEC were used. It starts working after 5,800 rpm. Below you will find H22A Redtop and Blacktop cam specs.
H22A engines use 35 mm intake valves and 30 mm exhaust valves.
To make your engine work properly, adjust valves after every 25,000-30,000 miles. For a cold engine, intake valves clearance should be 0.15-0.19 mm, exhaust valves clearance – 0.17-0.21 mm.
The size of H22A engine stock fuel injectors (until 1997) – 345 cc. Engines made after 1997 used 290 cc fuel injectors.
All H22A versions were fitted with 60 mm throttle body, except for H22A Redtop, where the 62.5 mm throttle body was used.
The firing order is 1-3-4-2.
The 2.3-liter version – H23A – was created based on H22A.
Together with the family of H-engines, Honda made F-series (F18, F20, F20C, F22, F22C and F23), which was technically very close to H22 and H23.
In 2001, H22A was discontinued and replaced with K20A and K24A.
1. There are two versions of H22A for JDM Honda: H22A Redtop and H22A Blacktop.
– H22A Redtop has a red valve cover. This is the most dynamic out of all H22 engines, it was installed in Honda Prelude Type S and SiR S-Spec, and in Honda Accord Euro R. It boasts 220 HP @ 7,200 rpm and 221 Nm @ 6,500 rpm.
The H22A Redtop engine has dome pistons, which increases the compression ratio to 11. A new intake manifold, a 62.5 mm throttle body, improved exhaust manifolds, and 57 mm exhaust system are used here as well. Light head porting was made in factory conditions, and the cylinder head was fitted with sports camshafts.
Here are the H22A cam specs: duration 306/310 deg, lift 11.91/11.12 mm.
For the H22A Euro R engine (JDM Accord), a different intake manifold was developed.
– H22A Blacktop is the most popular version with a black valve cover. It is found in Honda Prelude Si, Prelude SiR, and Accord SiR. The engine develops 190 HP @ 6,800 rpm and the torque of 206 Nm @ 5,500 rpm.
There is also a slightly more powerful version: 200 HP @ 6,800 rpm and the torque of 219 Nm @ 5,500 rpm.
Here are the H22A Blacktop cam specs: duration – 288/308 deg, lift – 11.38/10.54 mm.
The main difference between H22A Blacktop and H22A Redtop are as follows: the Blacktop version uses pistons with a small dome, therefore, compression rate dropped to 10.6, since not so much productive intake and exhaust manifolds are used, and the diameter of the exhaust system is 51 mm. Factory head porting was not made for H22A Blacktop.
2. H22A1 Black top – here JDM H22A Black top cams were used, which decreased the compression ratio to 10. The power is 190 HP @ 6,800 rpm and the torque is 214 Nm @ 5,500 rpm. This engine is found in USDM Prelude SR-V and Prelude VTi-R.
3. H22A2 Black top is the engine for the 4th gen EDM Prelude. Its camshafts are similar to those of H22A1. The power of this version is 185 HP @ 6,800 rpm, the torque was 143 Nm @ 5,300 rpm.
4. H22A3 Black top is a very rare modification almost impossible to come across. It is similar to H22A2 engines and can be found in 4th gen Honda Prelude.
5. H22A4 Black top is a modified H22A1 with an open deck cylinder block and a new ECU. This engine was installed in 5th gen Honda Prelude. The power was 200 HP @ 7,000 rpm, and the torque was 212 Nm @ 5,250 rpm.
6. H22A5 Black top was a version of H22A2 with open deck cylinder block and a different ECU. It was installed in Honda Prelude VTi gen 5 and Prelude VTi-S. The power was 185 HP @ 7,000 rpm, and the torque was 206 Nm @ 5,300 rpm.
7. H22A7 Red top was an analogue to EuroR H22A Red top, but has a modified exhaust manifold. Its headflow was slightly better than in H22A Type S. This engine was designed for EDM Honda Accord Type-R. Its power was 212 HP @ 7,200 rpm, the torque was 222 Nm @ 6,700 rpm.
8. H22A8 Red top was an analogue to the H22A7 engine for the European Honda Prelude VTi and Prelude VTi-S. Here H22A2 head with Type S cams was used. The power was 200 HP @ 7,200 rpm, and the torque was 212 Nm @ 5,250 rpm.
9. H22Z1 Black top was an analogue to 22A4 for Australian market. Is featured an ECU and was installed in Honda Prelude VTi-R. The power was 200 HP @ 7,000 rpm, and the torque was 212 Nm @ 5,250 rpm.
1. High oil consumption. Most likely, valve stem seals and piston rings have failed. You will learn the details at an auto repair station, but chances are that you will not get away with just replacing valve stem seals and piston rings. You will probably have to buy a new cylinder block, or make a sleeved block.
2. Oil leaks. Most often oil leaks are detected in VTEC gaskets, oil cooler gasket, cam seals, and oil pressure sensor.
3. Coolant leaks. Check idle air control, the problem is most likely there.
4. Loss of power in H22A. This happens frequently, check the following components: distributor, timing chain tensioner, oxygen sensor, knock sensor, or adjust the valves.
You can reduce the number of problems and make your H22A work long and virtually without problems; you will only have to regularly perform maintenance of your engine, monitor its condition and use high-quality engine oil. Otherwise, you will face short service life of the engine.
It may seem that 200 to 220 HP is good for a 4-cylinder 2.2-liter engine, but you can get even better results.
Let's decide what motor is best for starting tuning – H22A Redtop or H22A Blacktop.
It doesn't matter, you will still have to replace camshafts and do the cylinder head porting, the result will be the same.
The first stage is the repairing the engine, most likely your engine is completely worn and requires repair, so have it repaired. Then buy cold air intake system, H22A Euro R intake manifold, a throttle body (68-70 mm), 4-2-1 headers and a 2.5″ exhaust system. This will be enough to make the old Honda H22 bring you more fun. There is no point trying to obtain more power, you will waste you money, as any modern 2-liter turbocharged engine with dual-clutch transmission will be faster.
But if you're really obsessed, let's go further. Now you need to do head porting. Even if you have a H22A Red top with serial porting, they had done it at the primary level. You have to make good porting; the diameter of the intake and exhaust valves may be left standard (35/30 mm). Now you have to remove the balancer shafts and close the oil line to them. It would be nice to increase the compression ratio; this would require Type S pistons (compression ratio 11). You can leave standard piston rods, but it is better and safer to have lighter ones installed. Do not forget about new valves, bronze valve guides, titanium retainers, Skunk2 PRO2 cams, cam gears, Skunk2 valve springs, 360 cc fuel injectors, and ECU Hondata.
Once configured, all these aftermarket parts together can provide about 250 HP at the flywheel.
That's still not enough? Then you have to increase the compression ratio to 14, find a suitable stroker kit, buy ITB kit, water/methanol injection systems, the most dynamic shafts and get 9,000+ rpm. However, it is less expensive to buy an S2000, or even a faster car.
There is no point in thinking of building a turbocharged H22A using stock internals, it is a weak engine, and you need forged pistons and rods. First of all, you need Darton sleeves, forged pistons (compression ratio <9), Eagle H-Beam rods, ACL rod bearings and ACL main bearings. Balancer shafts are to be removed. Such an engine is ready for installation of a turbokit based on Garrett T04e turbocharger (or something similar). To make everything work properly, buy a turbo manifold, an intercooler, an HKS BOV valve, ARP head studs, a Walbro 255 fuel pump, a 3-row radiator, an aftermarket fuel rail, 680 cc/min fuel injectors, a fuel pressure regulator, a MAP sensor, piping kit, the 3 inch exhaust system, a wideband air/fuel oxygen sensor, and a Hondata ECU. You also have to install an oil feed line to the turbocharger, and an oil return line.
After installation of all these mods and configuration of the ECU, you will get about 350 HP at the flywheel with the boost pressure of 15 psi (1 bar).
You can port and polish your cylinder head, buy sports valves, valve springs, and valve guides. These upgrades will improve performance and add reliability.