evidence: London College of Fashion graduates Nelly Rose and Odette Steele are part of a growing number of designers focused on updating the abaya, the traditional robe-like cloak dress worn by many Arab women. Italy’s Dolce & Gabbana also launched an abaya collection last year, selling designs decorated in house patterns. Rose and Steele collaborated with Indonesia’s Dian Pelangi in 2016, to create a hip collection of so-called modestwear, or updated abayas. Showing at Jakarta and London Fashion Weeks, some of these were decorated in modern-looking prints. [...] According to Abrian, the trend to modernise Arab styles can be seen in general in womenswear, with some more conservative changes being made to menswear. Updating colours and using new materials is key. "It is quite common to see abayas with different layers of fabrics and more trendy materials, like lace, designs or even transparent PVC," he says.