evidence: While 'alternative leathers' continue to attract huge investments, some designers are speaking out about the overlooked credentials of traditional leather. As plant and mushroom-based leathers gain favor, the inclusion of synthetic polymers in many of these 'leather alternatives' has prompted the question: how sustainable is 'vegan' leather? And do these alternatives have lower environmental impacts than their animal forebears? [...] So what is the difference between animal and plant 'leather'? And why has 'vegan' become shorthand for 'sustainable'? [...] So overall, there is a more nuanced and at times nefarious side to the 'sustainable' leather debate. Right now, byproduct hides are not valued as a long-lasting premium material in the face of quickening fashion. The marketability of 'vegan' leather and misinformation around its composition has meant that plastic is gaining favor over animal leather, despite limited comparative impact assessment that considers how 'pleather' once it hits landfills. As with any material sourcing decision, the environmental consequences are neither binary nor universal. The question is therefore not 'is this vegan or is this animal leather' but rather, what is this 'leather made of, and how was it produced? If these are questions you are grappling with, you might find my explanation of the benefits and limitations of plant and mycelium 'leathers' helpful; along with this detailed breakdown of animal leather production.