evidence: Semuliki National Park lies on the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), contiguous with the northernmost corner of Virunga National Park. Semuliki protects the easternmost extension of the mighty Ituri Forest, which stretches more than 500km to the Congo River and represents the only true tract of lowland tropical forest in East Africa. The landscape is dominated by Ugandan ironwood trees (Cynometra alexandri), interspersed with lush palm fronds and verdant ferns. Juxtaposed against this backdrop of green, a kaleidoscope of over 350 butterfly species of every size and hue flutter between shafts of light, and the forest is alive with a cacophony of birdsong. The dark woods are broken by startling open patches of papyrus swamps, the dramatic scenery of the Sempaya Hot Springs, and views of the glacier-tipped Rwenzori Mountains. In contrast to the perpetual twilight of the national park, Semliki Wilderness Reserve (formerly Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve) is a breath of light and air. But for small patches of forest, most of the reserve is a mosaic of dry savannah grassland, riparian woodland and Borassus palms. Herds of elephant, buffalo and antelopes gather on the plains beneath the looming peaks of the Blue Mountains in neighbouring DRC to the west and the dramatic slopes of the Rift Valley escarpment to the east.