id
stringlengths 1
7
⌀ | text
stringlengths 1
10.4M
| source
stringclasses 1
value | added
stringdate 2025-03-12 15:57:16
2025-03-21 13:24:26
⌀ | created
timestamp[s]date 2008-09-06 22:17:14
2024-12-31 23:58:17
⌀ | metadata
dict |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
23197 | Marlin 2.1.2.2 Ender 3 Pro CR touch does not work properly
I do have an Ender-3-Pro with the Sprite Extruder Pro on it. Also, I swapped out the controller board for a BigTreeTech SKR 1.4 Turbo, which works perfectly for me. I am using the CR Touch to level the bed. After a month of trying to fix the issue with the bed leveling, I still cannot get it to work correctly.
What have I done so far:
I checked that in the firmware the mesh bed leveling is enabled and is still present after homing.
I also tried to adjust the corners based on the G29 command and looked at the visual graph that was produced from the test points.
I also tried manually adjusting the mesh bed leveling by editing the saved values. At first, it worked, but eventually, this also failed me.
I am really confused about this behavior, which is why I also tried to replace the CR Touch, in case mine was faulty, but this was not the case. I observed the same behavior in the second one.
For completeness, these are my Configuration.h values that are enabled for the CR touch:
#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING
#define BLTOUCH
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
Am I missing some options? Or is the CR touch not as good as the competitive alternatives, like the BL touch?
To make it clear, I observed that it wants to compensate for the right sight of the bed more than on all other ones.
Have a look here (I visualized it with 3D Printer Auto Bed Leveling Mesh Visualizer):
0 1 2 3 4
0 -0.632 -0.694 -0.752 -0.792 -1.239
1 -0.489 -0.577 -0.667 -0.747 -1.249
2 -0.397 -0.502 -0.607 -0.707 -1.217
3 -0.227 -0.384 -0.519 -0.639 -1.174
4 -0.002 -0.194 -0.389 -0.564 -1.122
Another problem is that after one print, I can adjust the z-offset again to about 0.1 to 0.8 mm.
I've had bad luck with all my clones, I've read the CR touch is supposed to be very good nowadays.
I am not using any clone and so far I cannot tell if it is good or not. Since the problem persists I assume it has to be something with the software.
Have you rechecked the wiring? I had a problem with my CR Touch and it was loose wiring. Also, what is the observed behavior? You mention that it "does not work properly" but do not explain what is happening.
Yeah i checked the wiring and it is fine. Sorry for that I edited my post, you should now see what I mean, I also took a mesh for visualization.
You are using an economical printer with design flaws. One of the problems with this portal printer is the poor roller design in combination with the single driven Z threaded rod.
If you look closely to you bed using a bed visualizer you will see that the problem is probably not with the CR Touch, but most probably an issue with the roller system on the Z posts:
This is a common problem, please fix the gantry first and relevel again.
I upgraded now to a dual z axis and used the E1 connection for the second stepper motor. However, the problem is less present now, but after auto align the x axis the right side is still too low. After G34 and bed leveling did not solve the problem. I am currently out of ideas what the problem may be. I also disassembled the whole printer and reassembled it again with caution. The z rods are vertical without any bends in it...
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.137703 | 2024-04-06T09:17:21 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23197",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"XaniXxable",
"agarza",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23193",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/42960",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
23146 | Seeking a Centralized Interface Solution for Managing Multiple 3D Printers in a MakerLab
I'm responsible for a MakerLab in an engineering school, equipped with a diverse set of 3D printers: 5x Prusa MK3s+, 2x Prusa MK4, 2x Bambulab X1 Carbon, and 1x Formlab. Students currently initiate prints via USB/SD card on a shared PC. We're aiming to streamline this process by implementing a simple, centralized interface to manage all printers, view print histories, and start jobs. An ideal solution would also enable students to check print statuses from their mobile devices.
So far, I've explored Repetier Server, Octoprint, Prusa Connect, and Prusa Link. However, challenges have arisen:
Repetier Server seems to require specific firmware, posing compatibility issues with our Bambulabs;
Octoprint suggests running separate instances for each printer, which complicates centralization;
While the Prusa MK3s+ could integrate with a Raspberry Zero, this doesn't solve our need for a unified interface.
Specific Requirements:
Centralized control for all listed printers
Ability to view print history
Facilitation of print job initiation
Mobile accessibility for students to monitor prints
Given these constraints and goals, does anyone have experience with or can recommend a solution that fits this setup? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
For a printer to be controlled from a distance, the printer needs an advanced controller board or a dedicated controller board and a small interfacing board. Most printers have just a simple controller board, not being able to perform other tasks than sending G-codes to the printer.
Ultimaker printers have an advanced controller with enough performance to do more than just send G-codes, it also hosts a printing server host. You can connect to the Ultimaker cloud to access the individual printers and manage and browse through (un) finished prints.
There seems to be a solution for other printers, an example for Lulbotz printers, stacked in a farm is managed by software found on AutoFarm3D. Note that you are required to run a Separate Raspberry Pi 4 board next to the simple controller board.
Whether this operates with the Prusa MK4 printers is unknown, supported are:
Recommended 3D Printers
Bambu Lab X1/X1C
Bambu Lab P1P/P1S
Bambu Lab A1 Mini
Bambu Lab A1 (coming soon!)
Prusa MK3/S/+
Prusa MINI
Artillery Sidewinder X1/X2
Artillery Genius/Pro
Creality Ender 3 S1
Creality Ender 3/Pro/V2
Creality CR10/V2/V3
Another option is to install Klipper on a Raspberry Pi or similar device. You can host multiple printers/instances from a single Raspberry Pi.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.137979 | 2024-03-15T15:06:24 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23146",
"authors": [],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
23147 | Extruder occasionally reverses direction
The extruder gears on my Ender 3D printer v.4.1 occasionally reverse direction when feeding the PLA filament, as if testing it by trying to pull it out, then resume the correct direction and continue proper feeding. So far there is no effect on the quality of the prints.
What is the purpose of this occasional momentary reverse action, and is it to be expected?
What is it?
This reversal of the gear direction is perfectly normal, and is called retraction. It is basically a recoil movement of the filament.
Retraction (generally) occurs when the extruder effects movement and displacement from one part of a print to another. It is to prevent the molten filament from dripping unnecessarily all over the print and the print bed - otherwise known as stringing.
In short, it is perfectly normal behaviour and nothing to worry about.
Additional information
Retraction towers
Note that you can check that your retraction is fine by printing retraction towers, such as this:
Image source: Persistent Stringing with Retraction Tower
Parameters
There are a number of parameters that can affect retraction, and these include:
Retraction distance
Retraction speed
Minimum displacement
Enable combining
Z-axis elevation when retracted (Lift z)
You can adjust some, or all, of these parameters should your retraction not be "up to scratch".
However, this is going beyond the scope of your question, so I won't cover them here. Moreover, as haven't mentioned that your prints are failing, then it is probably best if you don't change these settings - unless you have to.
Further reading
There are many online resources about retraction. Some suggested reading:
Retraction Tuning With Slic3r
Slic3r and Marlin configuration for RepRap FW retraction
What is retraction in 3D printing? Definition and adjustments
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.138183 | 2024-03-15T19:30:14 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23147",
"authors": [],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
23167 | How can I fix an error from building a 3D printing slicer software for a robotic arm based on a provided code from GitHub, getting an error LNK1181?
Not sure if the right place to ask this particular question but will try anyway. Currently trying to run a software as presented in the link here: GitHub - zhangty019/S3_DeformFDM: S^3-Slicer: A General Slicing Framework for Multi-Axis 3D Printing and without success, ergo this post.
I have been following the instructions provided in the GitHub repository to the point. The only difference in the execution has been that I am running it in VS22 instead of VS19 but this has been adjusted by the following: GKLLib/QMeshLib/ShapeLab > Right click > Properties > Configuration Properties > General > Platform Toolset > Visual Studio 2022 (v143).
A few initial errors have been presented after the initial build but that has been rectified by the following:
Specified paths of libraries and directories in the build files, specifically the ShapeLab. That has been done by the following process:
Solution explorer > ShapeLab > Properties > Configuration Properties > VC++ Directories > Include Directories > Edit > Include Directories > New Line > paste in directory path: D:\oneAPI\mkl\2024.0\include
and as well,
Solution explorer > ShapeLab > Properties > Configuration Properties > VC++ Directories > Library Directories > Edit > Include Directories > New Line > paste in directory path: D:\oneAPI\mkl\2024.0\lib
The software build process has now been brought to a halt by a single error presented below:
Severity Code Description Project File Line Suppression State Details
Error LNK1181 cannot open input file 'D:\oneAPI\mkl\2024.0\lib.obj' ShapeLab D:\Documents\GitHub\githubTest\S3_DeformFDM\ShapeLab\LINK 1
When I search in the specified file with File Explorer I find that the lib is actually a folder with other subfolders inside of it and other .obj files included. In contrast, there is no file by the name lib.obj.
When searching the web not many helpful tips or tricks have been found so not sure what is to be done to fix this particular error.
Does anyone know what could be done to fix this?
You're trying to solve a software build issue by asking on a 3D-printing site? Maybe try [SO] instead... Or, maybe just posting an issue on the GitHub repository.
We often have questions about building 3D printer firmware (i.e. Marlin, or whatever), and we can help. However, (and maybe I am wrong) this seems to be a question not about a common, or commercial, 3D printer, nor about a printer's firmware, but rather a piece of third-party robotics software. I have read the question a few times, over the past few days, and I can't really understand the issue. Is it really a build issue with the software from a Github repository? If so, then raise an issue on Github, so that the author of the software can see the issue and hopefully address the problem.
Otherwise, StackOverflow or Robotics.SE may be the place to ask. If it really is 3D printing related, then please clarify the issue, and hopefully someone will have an answer. Hi and welcome, BTW :-)
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.138339 | 2024-03-21T12:59:05 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23167",
"authors": [
"FreeMan",
"Greenonline",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33169",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
23109 | M303 Autotune for heatbed fails with "Bad Extruder Number" error. Why?
I'm attempting to get Autotune PID values for the heatbed. I'm using M303 with an E-1 parameter to designate the bed. I'm also using an S parameter to designate the desired temperature. It's returning a "Bad Extruder Number" error each time. M303 with no E parameter correctly runs the Autotune process and returns valid P, I and D values for the Extruder heater.
I'm using instructions found here, Marlin Firmware M301 / M303 / M304 G-Code Commands Explained.
Printer is a Prusa i3 clone using Marlin (version 1.1.6) with Repetier to send the commands.
Your Marlin version is pretty old.
To enable the tuning of the bed, the configuration.h file requires the following compiler directive to be set:
#define PIDTEMPBED
If the hotend is tuned instead, this means that either the directive has not been set, or that the firmware is flawed by the following issue (#12468).
You should update the firmware to a newer version by flashing a more recent build. Note that the issue was present in a Marlin 2.0.x bugfix branch, so try the latest version or one from early 2019.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.138669 | 2024-02-29T23:00:03 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23109",
"authors": [],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
21735 | Does FreeCAD produce a wrong stl for slicer software?
I designed a basic structure with FreeCAD. For the base, I started with a 40x40 mm square:
And I extruded it with 6.5 mm:
Then, I added a circle sketch with a radius of 19 mm:
And applied 5.5 mm pocket:
The end result looks good:
However, any slicer I know will produce a strange shape around the middle of the sides both inside and outside:
There is a 1 mm thickness there, so I don't understand why are those shapes presented.
I'm looking for:
The reason for those failed shapes
The solution to eliminate them (preferably without resizing either the square or the circle)
I have provided the STL file for analysis.
Can you include the Stl? As a link or, if it's small enough, as a code block in the question ?
Also, include your slicer settings as these may be part of the problem.
I tried more than 10 combinations of slicer settings, but those strange artifacts always stayed there. So, @agarza: if you have any idea on which settings worth trying, let me know please.
It could be a problem with the number of walls, the thickness of the walls, etc. Hence the reason for asking for slicer settings. We need somewhere to start.
It's not FreeCad, it is the shape you want to create. The wall has 1.0 mm thickness. I assume that you are using 0.4 mm nozzle. With default extrusion width of 0.45, you can get either 0.9 or 1.35 mm thickness, 0.9 obviously being closer to desired.
The other issue is, there's no space for four perimeters. So, at the point where internal perimeters end, slicer need to move external perimeters closer together, to make them fuse properly. Thus, even at 0.5 mm extrusion width you will see this collapse. To prevent this effect, you need to either use smaller nozzle that would allow for internal and external perimeters to be continuous, or change your geometry to make it compatible with FDM process.
Note that, if you want consistent prints, you shouldn't set extrusion width (or wall thickness, or however it's called in your slicer) to the value lower than the diameter of your nozzle. Even making it equal is risky. For this situation, I'd suggest 0.2 mm extrusion width on 0.15 or 0.18 nozzle. Or redesign.
In case I change the wall thichkness in Slicer software to 0.2mm it eliminates the problem. Is that a wrong way to solve this?
@Daniel wall thickness needs to be slightly larger than nozzle diameter if you want a consistent print. The same if you are lucky and nozzle is extraordinarily precise. Thus, it is a good solution, but only if you will change nozzle to 0.2 or smaller.
@Mołot I don´t see problems using Simplify 3D, I can have a little air gap of 0.2mm using nozzle 0.4mm.
@FernandoBaltazar if your prints looks good and fuse properly with extrusion width smaller than nozzle diameter, I really want to see them. Most people can't manage that.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.138792 | 2023-12-03T14:57:17 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21735",
"authors": [
"Daniel",
"Fernando Baltazar",
"Mołot",
"agarza",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20803",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23193",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/39367",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4454"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
23292 | Is there a way to tell slicer which part of the model should be a continuous line?
I have a model that has an extremely thin place, only one perimeter in width. Slicer moves in the way marked with the red line, creating a join in the very middle of the very visible flat pane. I marked it with a red line on the first picture.
I would prefer if the printer would print the exterior wall first, and leave any joining marks on the interior only, as marked with a green line below. Is there a way to achieve this?
I am using PrusaSlicer and Orca, but I'm ready to try other slicers if they can do it.
Model is cable-cover.stl from the Galileo2 project. Older version, because I have another issue with the current one.
Note: For Cura, Orca and Prusa, Outer / Inner wall is a different distinction. On the pictures, all orange ones are classified as outer walls, and yellow ones are inner. The inner-outer or outer-inner distinction does not change the effect. That's why I am using "exterior wall" and not "outer wall" in my question.
It's not possible to have such fine control over the path generation, as far as I know. (Slicers don't really know what your “exterior wall” is.) In order to get a seamless junction you will need to fit in two extrusion widths, which you could do by either:
Slightly thicken that part of the model on the inside (if this will not create clearance issues). You can insert boxes in PrusaSlicer which might be able to do it.
Use a smaller nozzle.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.139029 | 2024-05-14T11:16:29 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23292",
"authors": [],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
23236 | Emboss STL from SVG
I'm new to Fusion 360 (have basic experience with modeling software) and really struggling with what I thought would be a simple task.
I'm trying to remix this STL to emboss it with this SVG.
Steps I've taken:
Imported STL
Generated Faces
Converted Mess
Started Sketch on face
Imported SVG
Create -> Emboss
However, I can't figure out a sane way to actually select the lines in the sketch during the emboss setup. I tried creating a selection set, and that didn't work. I feel like I must be missing something fundamental.
I have added image hover tags for you. However, the image descriptions may not be correct or descriptively accurate. Could you check and maybe [edit] if necessary. Thanks.
Also, is this related to 3D printing? Are you going to print the resulting model? If not, then you might want to ask on Engineering.SE (but please don't cross post). See Where can questions that are purely about 3D modelling, or CAD, software be asked?
@Greenonline yes, I'm planning on printing it. I guess maybe it's more of a pure CAD question, though, so point taken... Although I finally brute forced my way through the workflow and my emboss is too small for the printer resolution :)
No, no, we have a very very low bar for 3D printing related questions. You only have to mention in the question that you plan on printing it... :-) Could you post an answer to explain how you solved your issue? Thanks.
@Greenonline I'm not sure I'd say I "solved it"... I just spent way too long manually selecting hundreds of paths with the shift key held. I would like to leave it open in case someone actually knows
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.139166 | 2024-04-25T01:26:24 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23236",
"authors": [
"Greenonline",
"NSjonas",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43135",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
23283 | Tensioner adjustment screw for Y-axis
Upon fixing my Ender 3 V3 SE printing mishap, I happened to lose the black tension belt adjustment screw for the y-axis on the print plate bed (little unseen thief creatures are real) and can't find online nor was support any help by sending me to buy on aliexpress.com (did not have it either).
What size and thread is it, to buy aftermarket?
And other parts as well as ALIMARKET takes weeks to come!
I usually get my stuff to Europe in a few days (5-7), the waiting times are rarely that long, but you must spend 10 $ or so. Look for different suppliers! To get an idea, you might want to post a photo of the assembly where the screw is missing!
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.139302 | 2024-05-12T12:44:13 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23283",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
23503 | Lots of issues while trying to achieve higher temperatures
lI have an older spool of PLA filament which has absorbed some moisture and doesn't print well at normal PLA temperatures, but does at higher temps like 220+ °C. Attempting to print at this temperature range has led me into a number of issues:
M112 shutdown thermal runaway. The print appeared to be going perfectly fine until the firmware shut down with M112 Thermal Runaway about 15-20 minutes into the print
Attempting PID tune with M303 E0 S240 C20 failed with PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high
Re-attempting PID tune with M303 E0 S235 C20 resulted in OctoPrint losing the serial connection: State: Offline after error Too many consecutive timeouts, printer still connected and alive?. Autotune appears to have succeeded on the firmware,
To mitigate issues with the serial connection, I've switched to a 3 ft long micro-USB cable with ferrite core and gold-plated connectors. I''ve also taped the 5 V pin. The voltage at the outlet connected to the printer is around 121 V.
serial.log
Is there a way to ask the firmware to provide more details before crashing with an M112 thermal runaway error?
What could be causing the failure to PID autotune and frequent serial disconnects at higher temperatures?
This is an Ender 3 Pro with Marlin based on the bugfix-2.1.x branch.
Does the same problem occur when printing a higher temperature filament? E.g. PETG at 240 °C.
I haven't tried printing PETG lately, I will try. My last PLA 16h print actually succeeded at around 205C after I manually saved the PID tuning values into EEPROM via the LCD. I will try printing PETG at 240C and report back but for now I cannot reproduce the problems I descrcibed.
Long shot, but is the hot end fan running when you are calibrating for new hot end PID values.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.139391 | 2024-07-25T19:30:12 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23503",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41041",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/42905",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"st2000",
"user84207"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
23658 | What AWG wire is suitable to connect PSU to Arduino Mega 2560
I am building a 3D printer and need help on how to connect a 12 V 20 A PSU to my Arduino and what AWG wire to use for it.
This question is similar to: Would a 24 V/20 A PSU damage an Arduino Mega 2560?. If you believe it’s different, please [edit] the question, make it clear how it’s different and/or how the answers on that question are not helpful for your problem.
I don't understand the question. 0scar's answer already states that an Arduino Mega can take a 12 V input - so what is the problem? Or is the question just (more accurately put) "What AWG wire should I use?"
There's a few assumptions made:
You are using RAMPS
You are factoring in maximum current draw (as one rightly should)
You use copper wires
For a "normal" Arduino Mega and 12 V system
From RAMPS 1.4:
The 11 amps pair is used to power the heated bed. The 5 amps source is used to power the board, the rest of the printer's components and the Arduino board. Your power supply should be able to deliver 16 amps, is ok if it delivers more.
You could use two different pairs of wires, as one pair only needs to supply 5 A and the other pair 11 A.
$$P=IV$$
$$P=5\times12$$
$$P=60W$$
and,
$$P=IV$$
$$P=11\times12$$
$$P=132W$$
From Calculate cable cross-section - Stecker Express
Cable cross-sections for 24V applications with 3 metre cable length
Power in watts
1.5 mm2
100
3 mm2
200
or
Cable cross-sections standardised in accordance with VDE 0295 for 12 V DC applications
Maximum current in amperes
1.0 mm2
11
So, for the 11 A wire, between 1 and 3 mm2. Which, from Cross Reference AWG to MM2, corresponds to 17 and 12 AWG.
For the 5 A wire, a 1.5 mm2 cross-section would suffice. Which corresponds to 16 AWG.
If you have a 24 V capable Arduino Mega clone and have a 24 V supply powering a modified RAMPS
As per your previous question Would a 24 V/20 A PSU damage an Arduino Mega 2560?, for a 24 V system...
Repeating the above, from RAMPS 1.4:
The 11 amps pair is used to power the heated bed. The 5 amps source is used to power the board, the rest of the printer's components and the Arduino board. Your power supply should be able to deliver 16 amps, is ok if it delivers more.
For the worst case scenario, the power will be
$$P=IV$$
$$P=16\times24$$
$$P=368W$$
So, assuming that you use pure copper cables/wires, then the cross section recommended for 16 amps is, from Cable Size & Current Rating Chart:
Cross Sectional Area of Conductor (mm2)
Approximate Overall Diameter of Insulated Cable (mm)
Current Rating
(mm2)
(mm)
(A)
--
---
--
1.5
2.9
17.5
From Calculate cable cross-section - Stecker Express
Cable cross-sections for 24V applications with 3 metre cable length
Power in watts
6
400
or
Cable cross-sections standardised in accordance with VDE 0295 for 12 V DC applications
Maximum current in amperes
1.5 mm2
15
2.5 mm2
20
So, let's say between 2.5 and 6 mm (which seems quite a variance, I must admit).
From Cross Reference AWG to MM2, cross-sections of 2.5 - 6 mm2 correspond to 14 and 10 AWG, respectively.
16 Amps is what is rated for use in your house by electricians, so standard electrical wiring could be used, that is 2.5 mm^2
Ah ok, so that is good. However, I assumed that it was a 24V system, and it isn't. Plus there are two different supplies and two different currents, so the wires could be thinner.
Fixed it.. Added 12 V
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.139551 | 2024-10-06T09:35:43 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23658",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Greenonline",
"agarza",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23193",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
23625 | SLA and food safety (for cookie cutter printing)
I am reaching out since the other questions are from 2020 or earlier. I am looking to upgrade my resin printer from my older lo her orange 10 and slightly newer Photon Mono (not 'X') to either a Saturn 3 Ultra or Saturn 4 Ultra. While I will mostly be printing gaming miniatures, I am also wondering about printing cookie cutters for my wife’s cookie-baking business.
Have any food-safe resins come out or will I need to use my Ender 3 S1 pro FDM with food-safe filament for these?
Have you checked this guide on formlabs.com?
TL;DR
Given the following (more recent) texts, SLA (and resin) still doesn't seem particularly safe, and you may be better off sticking with your FDM printer.
SLA and SLS
From this 7 month old (Feb. 2024) article, Everything You Need to Know About Food-Safe 3D Printing (emphasis is mine):
Smoothing and then coating with a food-safe material, for example epoxy resins or silicone coatings, will seal cracks and pores. Thus, resulting in a watertight surface that will prevent food particles from becoming stuck and making washing easier. However, be sure to keep in mind that these coatings also wear down over time, meaning that even if a part is not single use, any 3D printed polymer part should not be in contact with food over a long period of time or be used extensively.
That being said, coating can also be used with other 3D printing processes as well to make them more food-safe. Take SLA 3D printing for example. Generally, resin 3D printing processes are not considered food safe as resins are toxic, even if the final parts are smoother than those made with FDM. However, if covered with a food-safe coating afterward, they could be used for this purpose.
A similar issue arises with SLS 3D printing. Though the process is significantly more food safe than many others (as you can avoid issues related to nozzles or resins), especially when printing with nylon, the parts are still porous. Therefore, again, food-safe coatings are strongly recommended to seal the part.
In any case, it is safe to say that although it is certainly possible to have food-safe 3D printing, it is not without its risks. Safety considerations must be the utmost priority when it comes to anything touching food in order to ensure the health of the person eating, which is why everything that comes into contact with any consumable item goes through so much testing. Still, if you keep these factors in mind and ensure that you are using food-safe materials, you can look forward to using a 3D printer to make parts like novelty cookie cutters or even cutlery.
FDM
From this 10 month old (Nov. 2023) article, How to 3D Print Food Safe Objects – Basic Food Safety:
Not all filaments are created equally. While PLA and PETG are considered more food safe than ABS or Nylon, they still aren’t completely fit for use with food items, unless you’re buying a certified food safe variant of them.
PETG
Something like the Overture Clear PETG Filament is a pretty good choice because it doesn’t have color additives which can contaminate the filament. Do keep in mind that it is not FDA-approved, but still is generally considered food safe.
PLA
Manufacturers will often add chemical additives or pigments to their filaments to enhance their properties, such as more strength, endurance, or flexibility. PLA+ is a shining example of this process.
However, natural PLA that does not contain any chemical or color additives can also be used for food safe 3D printing.
A recommendation would be eSun Natural PLA 1KG Filament from Amazon.
Nylon
The Taulman Nylon 680 (Matter Hackers) is a top-quality Nylon filament for FDM 3D printers and is widely recognized as being food safe, and is also FDA approved.
Never tested myself, but according to this Reddit question, Are there any food safe SLA resins out there?, it seems that there are biocompatible SLA resins used in some industries: Keyprint KeySplint Soft Clear.
That one is quite expensive, but maybe there are cheaper ones nowadays
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.139777 | 2024-09-18T17:32:58 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23625",
"authors": [
"Velvet",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45931"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14703 | Ender 3 Extruder Speed / Upgrade
I am attempting to make my Ender 3 Pro print significantly faster than it is intended it I fear.
I hear a clicking noise coming from the extruder above 130 mm/s in Cura when it is going in long straight lines (I think my acceleration settings prevent it on shorter lines). I have seen this before when the bed is too close to the nozzle but I have auto bed leveling now and it is happening on all layers.
I have a standard extruder + Bowden tube setup. What can I do to make things go faster? I am less concerned about the quality of the print and more concerned about the speed.
Try a larger nozzle
Not an option for the parts I am making, did consider it.
Have you increased the extruder current? you risk grinding the filament, but if you also increase the spring tension, it should be ok.
I am still somewhat of a noob, but I have heard that your problem may be because the extruder is not getting the filament out fast enough. You are trying to extrude filament before it is sufficiently fluid. Try increasing your hotend temperature by 5 degrees.
your answer would have been my answer, as your understanding is correct and likely the correct answer to the question. If a 5° increase does not remove the problem, another 5° added until there is no clicking is the recommended approach.
I will try this and see if it helps, my hot end isn't cooling but it makes sense that maybe its not all fluid by time it comes out and is clogging it.
My settings are now a little insane but I have PLA printing at 190 mm/s at 237 on a mostly stock ender 3.
@TristanMaxson Obviously increasing the temperature helps on long straight segments, but on the slower parts of the print the extra temperature will reduce the quality of the print and also make bridges not bad, just impossible. It may be ok for specific prints.
You're likely hitting the thermal limit of your hot end.
The standard Creality hotend used in your printers maxes out at around 8-12 mm³/s.
To calculate your current volumetric speed, you can simply calculate
speed * layer height * extrusion width
With an 0.45 mm extrusion width and 0.2 mm layer heights, printing at 130 mm/s would put you at around 11,7 mm³/s - very high for the standard hot end.
Increasing temperatures as suggested in the other answer will help, but might reduce print quality on other layers / intricate structures.
The "proper" solution would be a Volcano or SuperVolcano hot end, or any of the other "high flow" alternatives.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.140078 | 2020-11-01T04:34:50 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14703",
"authors": [
"Ayka Resulov",
"FarO",
"Jaime Bello",
"Tristan Maxson",
"Whitlock Business Systems",
"fred_dot_u",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23252",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2338",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43188",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43189",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43190",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43200",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43206",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43219",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"nitu",
"rok n rob",
"sit on spam"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15054 | Thermal Runaway E1 at Layer 2
Before I start, I'll give you my setup:
Ender 3 Pro
Marlin 2.0.7.2
Material/Nozzle: PETG 0.4 mm @ 215 °C
Bed: Glass @ 80 °C
Default printing speed: 70 mm/s
Standard part cooling fan
Since I've updated the Marlin FW on from factory default to 2.0.7.2, my printer stops printing and gives out an thermal runaway exception message. Note that, after the firmware flash, I performed a PID-Tune multiple times.
The problem is absolutely repeatable and happens always on beginning of layer 2 (more precisely: 40 seconds after beginning layer 2). Changing PID values doesn't change anything to the moment of the error occurring.
I managed to run it longer by repeatedly dropping the temperature set-point and making a photo of the temperature plot. First photo is right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C. Second is when the temperature started rising slowly again.
After this temperature drop, the hotend temperature seemed to be much less stable and reached only 205 °C.
At Layer 12, the same thing happened again. But dropping the temperature far too low for PETG and having the "same" issue again, making me stop the print.
This problem is pretty urgent and I haven't found any suitable solution by now. Do you have any ideas of what may cause this trouble? New heaters and thermistors are on their way right now. But I fear that this is not a hardware problem since none of the components are damaged and dysfunctional, nor the moment of failure is random.
I even find 215 °C very low for PETG, care to share the brand? I'd rather go to at least 230 °C How much part cooling are you using? PETG requires very little, to none unless you print very delicate thin objects, e.g. like point of a rocket. What is the reason for updating the firmware? You could go back by flashing the original firmware. PETG doesn't like high printing speeds, lower to 30-50 mm/s first.
I fear I can't do that... That's pretty bad no-name stuff, having heavy bubbling issues above 230°C (even after drying with silica gel in an oven for hours). Between 205 and 220 happened to be the sweet spot with almost no stringing or bubbles and good strength. The problem is not related to the printing temperature or speed, since the error I'm trying to solve occurs completely out of a sudden. But I'll try again at 235°C and hope for the best
I started again, printing at 235°C. Before the print failed again, I recognized that the hotend never reached the setpoint. At first sight, I'd would guess that the P-Value of the Controller may be set wrong. But looking at the heater signal (led on the mainboard) tells me that it is on full blast. Maybe a damaged heater lacking power wasn't a bad Idea at all. If changing the heater is a solution for my problem, I'll let you know.
can you show me a photo of the extruder? Possibly the airstream from the fan brushes over the heater block...
It's the stock Ender3 fan, i'm also certain, this wasn't the Problem at all
It turned out, it was a faulty heater, that wasn't able to reach and maintain temperatures over 195 °C in a stable manner. The order came, had a new 50 W heater, thermistor and a PTFE-Bowden tube. It works just fine again, now!
Please post information on the "order" that you placed so others can follow the same solution.
I find my Ender 3 Max has "phases" where each and every print will end in a thermal error, always at layer 2. During these phases, I disable retraction to keep the flow of filament constant through the hot end and into the nozzle. While my prints are a little messier than I would like, more often than not they actually finish.
Another thing that helps is to lower the initial bed temperature as much as possible, or even have it at room temperature (Max has a carborundum glass bed with blue tape over the top) and raise it as the hotend moves away from the bed. I feel that layer 2 is the "transition layer" where the hotend is no longer using the heat from the bed to maintain its temperature, so the controller lets it have a big burst of energy to compensate for any temperature variations and more often than not gives it too much, resulting in our beloved E1 error.
I may be wrong, but I would love to try a thermal camera to see if it's true!
Could this be filament dependant? Maybe it is that you have a different brand?
Wrap all the heat system (above nozzle) with heat tape. I solved my problem with this!
Hi and welcome to SE.3DP. Could you [edit] your answer and explain a bit further? What do you mean by "heat tape"? Do you mean kapton tape? Maybe include a photo of your solution and why you think that it helped your issue. The more info that you provide the more upvotes you will get. Also, please don't forget to take the [tour].
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.140315 | 2020-12-17T12:30:03 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15054",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Angelica Huitron",
"George Gamboa",
"Gerard Tonno",
"Gonzo122p",
"Greenonline",
"Jhonny Camargo",
"M Ghoneim",
"Malcolm Rachmann",
"Profile Spam Account",
"Randy Nienhuis",
"Robert Dennis",
"Sparkle Carpet Cleaner",
"Trish",
"companycmd",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25805",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28052",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44488",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44489",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44490",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44493",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44494",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44495",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44535",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44540",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/50039",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/50414",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/50421",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"jwagn"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14996 | Why is pressure advance usually implemented in firmware rather than in the slicer?
Recently I started looking at pressure advance and how it works and I'm a bit confused about where it is usually implemented.
My idea of 3D printer was that its firmware is fairly dumb and only replays G-code, not knowing anything about the object being printed, material used, or even the printer itself.
But with pressure advance this whole thing changes and now the firmware needs to know the linear advance factor which combines information about the filament and filament path used. In addition, the E axis is no longer controlled directly by the G-code, but its motion is almost independently determined by the firmware.
Why is this? Is there a reason that slicer (or a post-processor) can't compute all this and directly store the needed extruder axis movements in the G-code?
Does the printer have some additional information that the slicer is missing?
Short answer: G-code can alter variables in the firmware, if needed.
In addition the E axis is no longer controlled directly by the GCode, but it's motion is almost independently determined by the firmware.
This is the case even without linear advance. G-code does not directly control the movement of any of the axes. G-code only specifies the path the axes should travel, but not the acceleration and deceleration associated with following that path. If you are printing a cube, then the G-code might specify that the extruder has to extrude a square. It will specify that the 4 sides of the square should be printed, but it does not specify how the transition from one side to the next should be handled.
The printer cannot instantly transition from extruding one side of the square to extruding the next side, because the direction of the extruder cannot change instantaneously. It needs to smoothly decelerate and accelerate. This is handled by the firmware, which translates the straight line commands from G-code to smooth acceleration and deceleration of the extruder.
This is exactly where linear advance comes in. It is coupled to the acceleration and deceleration. There is no way to "implement" linear advance in G-code, because G-code does not even have any notion of acceleration and deceleration. The G-code (and slicer) has no idea how the firmware is handling the acceleration and deceleration, so therefore it is impossible for the slicer to know what linear advance is required to match.
Then you might ask: "why is acceleration and deceleration not implemented in G-code (rather than in firmware)?" This is simply a design choice. G-code is meant to be a very simple file format, and it simply allows you to specify straight line move commands. Representing smooth acceleration curves would either require breaking them down into many discrete, small steps, but this would greatly increase the file size. You could suggest a more complex G-code specification that would allow a more "compact" representation of acceleration and deceleration curves but then you're just shifting the computation back to the firmware (albeit with a more explicit specification in the G-code).
This is a really good question that sheds a lot of light on 3D printer software/firmware architecture, and Tom already said a lot of the things I wanted to say before getting a chance to write an answer. The basic problem is that, to do pressure advance accurately (and in a way that doesn't get it horribly wrong when inaccurate), you need to know the actual feedrate of the extruder at all times, and that's not available until applying the acceleration profile, which by convention happens in the printer firmware.
With that said, there were primitive and even somewhat advanced attempts to do pressure advance in the slicer. The first seems to have been "coasting", which, along with extra-priming after coast, is pretty much just "pressure advance, assuming a constant feedrate". It gets things horribly wrong if you mix different extruder feedrates (different print speeds or line widths, etc.) or if you have slow acceleration, but if your acceleration is so fast (relative to max speed) that it's approximately instantaneous, it might work okay.
Modern Cura also has Flow Rate Compensation, which is something like pressure advance. It's rate-sensitive, so in theory it can give accurate results with varying line width and print speed as long as acceleration is close enough to instantaneous. Since it appeared after Marlin added linear advance, I never bothered trying to play with it, so I can't speak to whether it actually works decently. There are still a lot of subtleties to when the advance is performed that it could get wrong, and I think you'd want to do some test cases just to read the gcode output and evaluate whether what it's doing is sufficiently close to reasonable.
If you wanted to do full pressure advance in the slicer, you'd need to let the slicer handle acceleration profile, breaking lines up into small segments each with nominal feedrate matching the rate they should end at, and sufficiently close to the rate they should start at, with the firmware acceleration limits set to accommodate the change. Then, knowing a very good approximation of the actual toolhead and thus extruder feedrate for each segment, you'd know the advance to apply, and could apply it as an additional subdivision at the end of the previous print move. And then in theory, it all works out. But this would make the gcode a lot larger/bulkier, and more demanding on the serial link speed and microcontroller's ability to keep up with parsing/planning. So it's almost surely a bad idea.
The Klipper firmware does this differently. It does the gcode parsing and planning (including pressure advance) in Python software (with some C for critical paths) running on a much more capable computer, and sends the precise generated stepper motor timings over the serial link to the microcontroller operating the printer hardware.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.140831 | 2020-12-09T09:52:29 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14996",
"authors": [
"Alex Fox",
"Brad Knox",
"Peter Shaw",
"Piter Talha",
"Profile Spam Account",
"Trish",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44256",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44257",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44258",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44270",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44271",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44293",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"sonny carlino"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15412 | 3D printer destroys part by lowering nozzle
I have a Lulzbot TAZ 4 and am using Lulzbot Cura for slicing, printing with HIPS.
Yesterday, I tried a print, only for this to happen:
It appears that the printer got most of the way through printing the part, and then for no apparent reason lowered the nozzle into the part (causing it to detach from the bed), raised the nozzle back up, and then to continue trying to print like nothing happened.
I thought maybe the G-code file got corrupted when transferring to the SD card (a single bit-flip could cause exactly this problem). So I generated the G-code again with exactly the same settings, and the same thing happened again but in a slightly different place and a few layers further up the model:
I have previously printed exactly the same model, only mirrored, with the same settings, and did not have this problem. I've never seen anything like this. Does anyone know what is going on?
Did you just re-generate the G-Code? Or you have inspected the the G-Code? I suggest to use Cura's PREVIEW and use right and bottom sroll bars to track the head movements. Do you use any plugins for Cura? What about the hardware? If your Z axes go fluently up and down? This printer builds up to 250mm, and model is much lower I guess ... but is it possible that this could be mechanical accident like the top of a carriage hitting into something?
Considering the brown goo, this could have been caused by a blob of filament stuck on the outside of the nozzle and tore of the rest. What makes you say the nozzle dug lower into the part? Have you observed this?
The G-code seems to be fine. I've printed a model with the same height before, so I don't think it is a problem with the hardware. I didn't think that a blob of plastic could be hot enough to tear through already cooled layers like this, but looking at the print again it seems possible. I realized that my cooling fan was stuck and probably wasn't running on either of these prints, so maybe the nozzle overheated or something.
Too less cooling on small layers doesn't allow the material to set properly, in combination with a blob and curling of the layers you would see this. Hence my question if you saw the nozzle go down yourself, so I'm not referring to the G-code.
This is my bet, based on cooling fan failure (I assume it was nozzle fan, not a heatsink fan), though honestly my practical experience with HIPS is zero. Without this fan heated material printed at high angles will definitely curl up, and even flat may be unstable. I suppose it happend, observing layer inconsistency on middle finger close to the nail.
Then, material could curl a bit and build up. Collisions with hotend could result in blob of plastic here or there, and then something bad happened (see @Jack State comment).
I also suppose that the whole print was detached from bed and rotated, because we see surprising shape across the middle finger, and unfinished index finger. Filament was extruded in random locations, causing more blobs, more curling and more mess. There are some gaps which look exactly like hotend run directly into them. I suppose that object rotated both horizontally and vertically. It could be even dragged by hotend at the end (e.g. filament was extruded inside the index finger).
Seems reasonable. I hadn't though about it rotating up as it moved. I fixed the fan and it seems to be working now.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.141256 | 2021-01-23T05:38:25 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15412",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Alessandro Bardini",
"CLENSON LAU",
"Dagninet Amare",
"Jack Stade",
"John Laws",
"Unknown A",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26170",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26453",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45838",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45839",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45840",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45841",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45899",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"octopus8"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15309 | PMMA print distortion and inconsistencies
I am working on refining my PMMA printing process and I am trying to print as close as possible to the theoretical 100 % density of the material. I am making good progress and am slowing increasing the extrusion multipliers to try and find a good set of print settings.
I recently have run into an issue where the bottom ≈1/3 of the test cylinder is coming out rather distorted (see picture). The problem seems to sort itself out as the finish around the top of the cylinder looks fine. Do any of you have any experience with PMMA or have seen this problem before?
My initial thought is that it is heat driven and as more material is added it becomes less of an issue as there is more mass to dissipate the heat. For reference I am printing on an Raise3D Pro2Plus, for my prints I am running the extruder at 250 °C and the heated bed at 100 °C. I am eventually going to need to print rather large cylinders and would like an even surface finish along the length of it.
Test Cylinders, right and left show distortion on the bottom and the center shows a bizarre print where half of the cylinder was fine and half came out very jagged.
would love to know if you arrived at parameters that allow for satisfactory printing. I wrote a post (here: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16437/has-anyone-had-success-printing-pmma-filament-using-lulzbot-products) in hopes that someone had some wisdom to offer. Do you use any sort of heat-enclosure cage?
Commercial PMMA may soften already at 85 °C.
The higher you go away from the bed, the colder the air is, so the issues solves itself.
Try lowering the bed temperature, at least to exclude that as cause.
The second cylinder shows the very common issue related to uneven cooling. Probably your part cooling fan is blowing only from one side. Try using a better fan shroud or add a second part cooling fan.
Thanks for the insight, I will give that a try this afternoon. I'm not sure if something just blocked the fan for that run because I've printed about 10 of theses and that's the first time I have seen that issue.
Just an update, I think the heating bed was causing the issue like you said. Even dropping the bed temperature a few degrees made a good bit of difference.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.141547 | 2021-01-13T18:52:46 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15309",
"authors": [
"Awilda R Rentas",
"Eliu Reyes",
"Larry Tyler",
"Ronnie Quinlivan",
"S.C.",
"Tom Willis",
"ZebraEagle",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20345",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26295",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45411",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45412",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45413",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45414",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45435"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15235 | e-steps are wrong only during printing moves
I have two otherwise-identical machines (called "Lefty" and "Righty"), so I have a baseline to compare. I am running Marlin 2.0.7.2 on both machines. They are Creality CR-10 printers with BTT SKR e3 Mini v1.2 boards, with Marlin I compiled myself. Both machines are (as far as I know!) running the same exact firmware binary.
When running the same G-code on both printers, Lefty prints fine. But, Righty fires the plastic through -- I need to set the flow rate to 50 % (!) to be correct. I have checked the esteps, both are identical at 415, and this produces 39.5 mm of 40 mm commanded when bumped through 1 mm at a time via the extrusion menu, even on Righty. The XY movement on both machines is 100 % correct.
Volumetric extrusion is disabled in the firmware on both machines, and disabled in the slicer. Both machines are running TMC2209 drivers, set to Spread Spectrum at 650 mA for the extruder. Both machines are set to 1250 accel. The steppers are rated for 1 A, and they are not skipping steps.
The machines were working side-by-side perfectly until I killed Righty's stepper driver with static, and replaced the board. No other hardware was modified.
Why do both machines behave the same with identical G-code, until extrusion moves? Why does Righty try and extrude nearly double what it should be, only during printing, when Lefty works perfectly?
Annoyingly, this went away with a replacement board. I don't have a better fix.
For both machines did you compare extruder's (E) steps/mm setting in Marlin and possibly stored in EPROM (so check from the LCD in Configuration>Advanced settings) ?
Also stepper motors ... I believe they are exactly of the same type? There are 1.8 degree and 0.9 degree stepper motors on the market - so exactly doubled flow could be related to rotation. Also the stepper driver board may be configured for mcrostepping (e.g. full steps agains half steps), and this may equally influence the behavior. (I do not have CR-10, so I cannot advice in more details.)
The machines have identical hardware -- but more importantly an esteps calibration (measure filament, extrude manually, measure again) is spot-on between both machines.
Thank you. And I believe you have also already excluded microstepping difference, and Marlin configuration is equal for both .I've experienced too weak extruder's stepper setup (voltage tuning), caused skipping steps instead of pushing filament (just one of possible extrusion issues). If your e-steps values are near to nominal characteristics of CR-10 (i.e. afaik close to 100 steps/mm)? If it is two times higher, than maybe Lefty just loses steps? Key question: can you see/test if both extruders rotate with the same speed (e.g. print line) - or one is indeed two times faster (doubles amount)?
I can't tell if it's specifically double, but Lefty isn't skipping steps. I have seen it skip before and it's a very different behavior with notable sounds. Righty just kicks the extruder gear into high gear when it starts doing extrusion moves.
The pulse for stepper driver have to come from somewere (also btw.: you did not reveal your steps/mm values). There are parameters in Marlin's Configuration_adv.h (HAS_TRINAMIC_CONFIG section) with settings which can influence microstepping values of your drivers, they communicate with stepper driver through pins - but you mentioned the same Marlin and same gcode files. Have you replaced the stepper driver board or the mainboard? Mainboard pin failures would be worst case (and less likely). Maybe still the driver - did you try to exchange stepper drivers between machines? or even extruders?
I did mention the e-steps value on both machines (415), and the drivers are soldered on with no way to switch them. I had replaced the entire mainboard. It began acting up last night in a different way related to the BLTouch, so I'm just going to replace the whole board and see if that helps.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.141775 | 2021-01-06T18:58:40 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15235",
"authors": [
"Bryan B",
"CodeTiger",
"Lose weight",
"Spammer",
"biju kunnothan",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26170",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/263",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45121",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45122",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45123",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45124",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45130",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45132",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45133",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45229",
"kees juffermans",
"octopus8",
"user98055"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15263 | Can we apply more voltage to a PCB heated bed to get faster heating?
From my understanding, the power of heater must higher than heat dissipate to ambient air so the bed can heat up. The reason why a bed heats up too slowly is due to its heat capacity compared to heater power.
As the heater is a resistive load, I think we can put higher voltage to get more heating power.
The PCB heater has two parts: copper and laminate. The reason of failure is that the copper can come off the board due to high temperatures. In this case we can control temperature with firmware. The questions are:
Will this method work?
What can go wrong or what is the risk of this method?
Yes, this method will work. Some (LED) power supplies have a small potentiometer that you can use to slightly adjust the voltage. On a 12 V printer, adjusting the supply from 12 V to 14 V will give a 36% increase in power.
Obviously there is a limit to how much you can increase the voltage. The voltage itself is unlikely to be the limiting factor, but there is a limit to how much heat the bed can dissipate.
The PCB heater have 2-part copper and laminate. the reason of failire is the copper go off the board due to high temperature. In this case we can control temperature with firmware.
This is true, but you have to consider that firmware is not infallible. If you increase the voltage (and thus wattage) of the bed a lot, you risk creating a dangerous situation if something fails. Ideally, you should choose the wattage of the bed such that it does not create a dangerous situation even if it is left on permanently by accident. In extreme cases (e.g. 220V to a nominally 12V heated bed) damage will be almost instantaneous before the firmware can intervene.
You also have to consider that increasing the voltage also increases the current. The wires need to be thick enough to handle the additional current. You also have to pay special attention to the MOSFET that is used to switch the bed; it also needs to be able to handle the current (and voltage, though this is usually less of a problem). Usually the integrated MOSFETs on 3D printer control boards can only handle about ~10 A which is what the bed might normally draw. Also pay attention to fuses and to screw terminal connections. They might not be able to handle the increased current either.
What about AC heated bed(Orange silicone pad)? Why it can heat much quicker? I thought it’s had more power per area so I think add more voltage to PCB bed. And about safety My heated bed got about 100 degree centigrade when permanently connected to supply. If silicone pad got higher wattage what happens when we left them connected?
@Mlab Centigrades is hundreds of a grad(uation) and an angular unit. It can also be a reference to any 100 graduation scale, for example Fahrenheit is a centigrade scale. While commonly referred to as a temperature, it is scientifically no longer accepted to speak of °C as centigrad: Temperature is commonly measured in Kelvin, or in the derivate scale K+273.15, aka Degrees Celsius. Do you mean "My heated bed got to about 100 °C / 373.15 K"? That would be beyond the rated temperature range for any heated bed for consumer products. Why do you need a heated bed that operates abve 80 °C?
The reason the AC bed heats faster is indeed because it has more power (per area). If you leave it connected it will reach a higher temperature, roughly proportional to the power (i.e., 2x more power will result in 2x the temperature rise -- a 100 W bed might reach 100 °C (80 °C above ambient) then a 200 W bed will reach 180 °C).
@TomvanderZanden we enforce SI formating on units, so we also should enforce talking about them in terms of SI units or derivate units.
Sorry for making that confusing. I refer to Degree celcius.
@TomvanderZanden I know that for silicone pad the final temperature will higher because of higher power per area. but with your answer " Ideally, you should choose the wattage of the bed such that it does not create a dangerous situation even if it is left on permanently by accident" So that mean silicone pad can handle higher temperature when silicone pad left connected right?
@Mlab No, not necessarily. A lot of the silicone heaters will create a dangerous situation if left connected. With these, it is a good idea to include a thermal fuse.
You can add a boost converter to the bed's power supply. Assuming that you are using an external MOSFET to control the bed (and you should). Verify what the MOSFET's max voltage rating is, then obtain a boost converter and configure it to give a voltage that is 10% less than the max. I once used this technique when driving a 24V hot end heater using a 12V power supply. Be forewarned, however, the boost converter I was using exploded during use one day.
Or you could get an additional higher voltage PSU and use that as the bed's heater. They make them up to 80V I think now.
Not necessarily
Potential differential U, aka Voltage of a part, is not to be ignored: a 24 V part needs only 24 V, not 36 V. A 12 V heartbeat is only safe for 12 V. There is a little tolerance for those measurements, but rule of thumb is about 10-15% of the rated voltage, so a 12 V bed should not be operated at more than 13.8 V for an extended period.
What actually facilitates heating is the Current I aka Amperage going through an item, as the formula for the Work Ph (dissipated in the shape of heat) of the electric resistance R is $P_h=R I^2$.
As long as you stay below or at the maximum rated Power Pr or Wattage of the heating pad $P_r=U I$, you can increase the Current up to the limit of $\frac {P_r} U=I$. On the bench, with a regulated power supply, we can use that to get a perfect, maximum output as we want it. But the printer isn't a bench with an expensive PSU, we get only something akin to 12 V out of it, so... what to do?
DON'T route in extra Power!
Yea, in DC circuits we can just add batteries behind one another to get twice the Voltage and push a circuit. Or we can put them in parallel, to sum up the current. But that doesn't work just as straightforward in AC circuits (phase shift between parts has to be taken into account). And routing in an extra pair of wires providing 12 V into an already 12 V part would get us something in the order of 24 V and fry the part. You'd accomplish nothing more than turn your heated bed into a fire hazard or a hunk of scrap!
So straight routing in another 12 V on top of what is rated? NOPE!
Unhooking from the same PSU?
Some printers unhook the bed from the board's PSU, running a (differently) regulated power source. In the best case, it's set up to a Voltage/Current pair that maximizes the bed's heating. In such a setup, the whole heating power runs through a MOSFET that acts as a switch: A signal comes from the board to the MOSFET to allow current to flow. No signal on the Gate of the MOSFET leads to no current reaching the bed and no heating.
However, that is a complicated setup - yet one of the only ways how a "mains voltage bed heater" can be done with a board that runs on 5 V. You also will have to route the high power through a properly rated set of wires and connectors. These thicker wires will need proper strain relief as they need larger bending radii than what is installed before. In other words: you need to know what you do!
Finetuning the power supply to the bed!
In many printers, there's also a less invasive method to finetune the power curve of a bed. usually, there is a Potentiometer that is used to tune the output of the heating wires. Altering the potentiometer's setting with a screwdriver results in the output voltage shifting. $U=R I$ does not change when flipping to AC but U and I became wave functions instead of constants. However, R of a long wire (such as a bed) does depend only on the frequency of the signal and not on either the current nor the driving potential, we can assume R to be constant. So, we know we want to maximize I². So what can we do easily?
A 24 V heatbed has something in the order of 2 Ω and accompanied mainboard in my Ender3 is - according to the labeling - good for about 13 A on the bed output, while a typical 12 V bed runs in the order of 1.2 Ω while such boards typically are limited to 10-11 A. $U= RI$ to the resuce and... Voila: For the 11 A/1.2 Ω case we can tune the potentiometer to get just a smidge below 13.2 V - just at the 10 % point, for the 13 A/2 Ω case is technically safe at 26 V - and still well within the 10% rule of thumb. However, if you have a 1.2 Ω bed and your borard only allows to draw 10 A, then you are limited to 12 V.
(also, wherever in my comment I mentioned voltage or current I meant RMS current/voltage)
Let us continue this discussion in chat.
Typically, going above the %20 power safety margin risks burning out your heater. For a resistive heater this is about 10% above the voltage rating. At any rate, increasing the heater voltage shortens the life of your heater.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.142089 | 2021-01-09T14:39:26 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15263",
"authors": [
"AiraMae Chatto",
"Caleb Hunter",
"Dan Gaigalas",
"Diana Pekel",
"Hamza Jamal",
"Hüseyin Buharali",
"Julio Sandoval",
"M lab",
"Maxime Rivest",
"Michael Guidry",
"Omar Alvarez",
"Perry Webb",
"Spammer",
"Tom van der Zanden",
"Trish",
"Waldemar Weiss",
"White Diesel Suppliers LTD",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15075",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21079",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45246",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45247",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45248",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45252",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45253",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45254",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45255",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45256",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45257",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45261",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45262",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45266",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45275",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45276",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45281",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45299",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45319",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"manolis gekas10",
"richard stephenson",
"user45246"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15127 | Overhang Question
I haven't ran into the issue yet, but I am sort of expecting it to here soon towards the end of my print. Actually, I am not even sure if it should be something that I should be worried about or not.
Basically I have some overhang on a helmet piece (it's a vent piece) and I see that there is a 90 % degree overhang. It doesn't look too big but just curious if this should be something that I should be worried about. I forgot to add support in the vent, it's my own fault and I'm definitely going to fix this in my next print for sure, but do you all think it will fail if I keep the current print going?
I use Cura, Meshmaker, and I have an Ender 3 printer.
I'm just getting started with 3D printing so I wasn't sure if I should be concerned or not.
It looks like there are some defects in your STL as well, strange tessellation.
I'm having a hard time figuring out what the geometry of your part is. A picture from another angle as well would be helpful.
That depends on various parameters if an overhang will work or not, material, hotend temperature, speed, cooling, size of the overhang, etc.
Awesome, I'll let the print keep going then and see what happens, thanks!
@Kryreth - what happened in the end? Did it print ok without the support?
Many parameters will influence success. That overhang, as flat as it is and unsupported, will need to have support-structures enabled to become printable.
I wouldn't worry about that overhang. It should settle in a few layers. Just make sure you have a decent cooling fan on it.
Given the fact that you are making a helmet, I assume you are going to sand and apply putty to the whole thing at least 2 times and then sand in increasing grit. A little filing on that overhang will be an easy task.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.142943 | 2020-12-28T02:12:16 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15127",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Arakinas",
"DJG",
"Dalton Leach",
"DilaN Leelawardena",
"Greenonline",
"Jon Hargett",
"Juliana Sanches",
"SirShot",
"Trtle Blues",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25960",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30880",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44756",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44757",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44758",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44759",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44760",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44761",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44776",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/50290",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"star_lings",
"user19201"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14200 | Chocolate printing vs casting?
I need to make chocolate busts.
Is it better to make silicon reverse of the bust and cast the bust or directly print it using chocolate printer (I prefer cost and process speed over quality)? I don't have chocolate printer so if this method will be better I will need to use some 3D printing service.
I need to make quite a large amount of the busts.
For your application, you should 3d print a positive model, then make a silicone mould negative of that model. Then use the silicone mould to make the final chocolate. Clean the silicone thoroughly before initial use. Fill gaps in the 3d printed model with a light epoxy resin. Use mould release and ensure you wash and sterilize that silicon mould before using it with chocolate.
An actual chocolate printer is not easy to come by, as a normal 3d printer converted to use chocolate is not able to be sterilized for food use.
The video in the link illustrates one person's attempt at this process.
That video was spectacular.
In my experience, direct printing of chocolate is tedious because:
It has to be around 88 C to melt; and
It doesn't solidify very quickly at normal room temperature.
Unless you can print in a chilled environment (freezer is better than refrigerator), you will likely wind up printing a chocolate puddle. Even then, you have to heat not only the reservoir but also the entire nozzle (or it may solidify in the nozzle).
Also, some chocolates have issues if they freeze or become overheated, so it's a very tight tolerance with the temperatures.
I prefer ... process speed
Printing is unlikely to win that battle. You might print a plastic mold once you can use for casts, but if you do make sure you use a liner of some kind. 3d-printed plastics are not considered food-safe.
I got idea to make the bust from plastic and use it for making the mold from some food-safe silicon.
That could work very well.
Direct printing of chocolate is tedious because if it doesn't solidify very quickly (like, print in a chilled environment) you wind up printing a chocolate puddle. I've done it.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.143456 | 2020-08-06T15:06:06 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14200",
"authors": [
"Alexsio",
"Bj Curry",
"Davo",
"Dr. Mantis Tobbogan",
"Jason",
"Joel Coehoorn",
"John Dusek",
"Modest Emerem",
"Nate Glenn",
"Prem",
"Zorro",
"doc. Chocholoušek",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12562",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14562",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21113",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41296",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41297",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41298",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41299",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41300",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41301",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41302",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41313",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41323",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41324",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41326",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922",
"shirmeca Littlejohn",
"user22618388",
"أريان ديلا كروز"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14248 | LCD/DLP resin curing system
I'm trying to develop a device to burn a glass slide surface with a special pattern of UV light (between 300 nm and 360 nm) in a 5 cm square surface.
I've read several threads asking questions about LCD printers and their way of functioning but I am not entirely sure how they work. So far I have found two methods that explain LCD printers:
The LCD screen emits light in UV spectrum that causes the resin to cure. I don't believe there are any LCD screens that can emit at 360 nm.
Initially there's a UV light bulb 'behind' the LCD screen which is translucent when off. The pattern is drawn in the LCD screen interfering with UV light's path drawing the image in the plate.
If option two is the right one, do you know any devices (uv light and lcd screen) to develop what I want within the 360 nm wavelength?
Alternatively, can a DLP projector to emit UV light (by adding a UV light bulb)? Would it still need to be cured?
It's almost always what you call system 2:
The LCD screen is acting as a "mask" for the UV backlight, which is a strong bulb under it. This also is the reason that the screen degrades over time and that the machines need replacement bulbs: the heat from the UV source burns out the screen and itself over time. Both parts are consumable, just like the screen.
You could technically swap out the light source for any one that fits the machine. However, a 360 nm light source won't help you for printing resins at all: most resins you can buy cure between 395 and 410 nm.
Yes, even by curing with an UV light source, you need to post-cure the print. The reason for that is to get rid of any uncured, not washed away resin that still sticks to the surface and that a 3D print right of the platform actually isn't cured fully - especially the inter-layer-bonds are not formed fully and curing in the lightbox increases the stability to the print a lot.
This would imply a transparent LCD screen then... I'm trying to find one (or an OLED one) that I could use for my project but without luck.
@Shupper you need to take apart a full LCD screen and remove the backlight.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.143676 | 2020-08-13T02:50:15 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14248",
"authors": [
"Davi Rampazo",
"Gwazh",
"Kelvin Liao",
"Michael Monroe",
"Osama Hasani",
"Shupper",
"Tasha Logan",
"Trish",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20704",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41460",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41461",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41462",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41470",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41471",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41473",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41504",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41505",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"lazurita",
"user23398955"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14161 | X and Y axes don't move after upgrading to TMC2100 drivers
I had noisy DRV8825 drivers for my extruder E0 and X, Y, Z axes. I upgraded all to LV8729 drivers but they were still noisy, so I bought two TMC2100 drivers for the X and Y axes and two LV8729 for the Z axis and extruder E0. I updated Marlin (reversing endstops logic and choosing driver types) and I removed the jumpers under the driver pins. But my X and Y axis don't move; eventually the printer halts.
What could be wrong?
Enough that this question makes little sense. Did you only upgrade them? As in: The cabling is unchanged? You will need to provide not a photo of the driver, but the code for the relevant settings in marlin for us to even think of answering this.
I found the problem. I'm going to answer my own question.
Looking forward to read what it was.
Steps/unit also must be modified. In my case these values made the printer run silent and smooth.
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 200, 6160, 884 }
I set Max feed rate and Max acceleration as below:
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 5, 25 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 300, 300, 100, 10000 }
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.143892 | 2020-08-01T14:55:59 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14161",
"authors": [
"2012User",
"Exodist",
"Ghazi Faisal",
"Mark",
"Markus Brandstätter",
"Ryan Waite",
"TomTom",
"atefe ebrahimi",
"cedjones",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13700",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21959",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41144",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41145",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41146",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41150",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41151",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41152",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41156",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41158",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41175",
"kenneth Kristiansen",
"فيصل الهذلي 2"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14162 | Does a teflon insert in an E3D V6 clone limit it's useable temperature so it can't print nylon?
I'm new to this game, and recently upgraded the hotend on my Ender 3 Pro to a clone of an E3D V6, as I'm keen to do nylon prints at some point. I noticed however that this one I got has a teflon liner which seems to negate the advantage of a metal hotend entirely.
I'm wondering what temperature it's safe to run this hot end up to?
There are many types of heatbreak clones. In cour case, your clone effectively turns your hotend into an e3d Lite6, not an all-metal e3d v6. To function properly, the PTFE liner needs to butt against the nozzle or you will quickly develop leak and clog issues.
This means, handle it like a Lite6, which has a max of 245 °C listed, but under usual operation should not exceed 230 °C.
It depends how deep it goes. If the teflon goes into the hotend then yes, it will limit the temperature end.
But: the teflon may just be something that ends somewhere in the cold side and sticks out so there is something to put into the extruder or higher up into the connector.
I cam currently setting up a Slice Mosquito for a Bondtech DDX. The Mosquito is full metal, but there is a (actually printed nylon) adapter for the DDS. In this adapter you put a teflon/capricorn tube, that ALSO sticks out only around 5 mm. Here is the point though: it never goes into the even cold side and is only there so the connection to the extruder on top has a width limitation.
So, it really depends how long this tube is (and no-one here will know because a v6 clone may be different internally from the original). I would suggest pulling it out (it should move out easily) and then seeing how deep it goes. As long as it stays on the cold side before the heatbreak, it never gets in touch with anything that is hot.
Long story short, you can print Nylon with a Teflon tube. I've done it. P.S. The nylon absorbs water like nothing you've ever seen. Even after the part is printed, it absorbs water, and expands!
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.144041 | 2020-08-02T01:11:22 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14162",
"authors": [
"Anamika Sharma",
"Ariel",
"Aurasphere",
"BobNY",
"Emmabrown",
"Jack willy",
"Ricardo Grande Millan",
"Shad Choudhary",
"Tom John",
"Tomáš Plinta",
"bondjemas",
"brain56",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41164",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41165",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41166",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41168",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41171",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41173",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41174",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41176",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41180",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41184",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41185",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41193",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41194",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41195",
"maira dube",
"seleena123"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14182 | Sliced object losing all detail in Cura
I'm pretty new to 3D printing. I am using Repetier Host 2.6 with Slic3r (printer Geeetech i3 Pro B).
When I slice detailed models I get issues like this as the slice result:
This is the model in the example, Army Men flames of war single version.
I can slice simple objects fine, walls, cubes 2D logos etc.
Why is this doing this?
When I used Cura the slice is fine.
This is a very small model, and you are going to need a very fine nozzle and a very small layer height in order to print it successfully with an FDM printer. Even then, you may not be able to realise all the details. Ideally, it should be printed with a resin printer.
This is not "loosing details". What is is is this:
You can not print on air. So, certain things (like the backpack) require SUPPORTS that are removed after printing. Another example is the gun.
Your support setting force the slicer to set up quite a lot of supports and that is what you see - start removing them.
There ALSO is a problem with possibly you using too large a nozzle. Depending on that one you may loose details, but there is not even the basic form visible on your picuture because all I see are supports.
https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-support-structures/#:~:text=3D%20printing%20support%20structures%20are,added%20cost%20to%20the%20model. exokauns supports.
Oh, as addendum: thisis a 15mm model - you may, once you sort out the support issue, consider printing it with a 0.1mm or 0.2mm nozzle. THAT SAID: check the details first ONCE YOU HAVE DETAILS. Not a picture full of support material.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.144267 | 2020-08-04T17:00:34 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14182",
"authors": [
"CARLTON RANDALL",
"Dmitrijs Jersovs",
"Kelvin Park",
"Mick",
"TomTom",
"TriflingToad",
"abokazem",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21959",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41232",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41233",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41234",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41242",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41244"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14184 | Bed wobbling on Ender 3
I have an Ender 3 3d printer. It has a bed that wobbles because it came with only 1 bed support beam.
Every model I print, I must print vertically, because the closer it gets to the edges of the build plate, the less adhesion it has.
Is there anything I can to to fix this problem?
It the bed actually wobbling or is it just not flat or not level. If it's wobbling the cause is not the single beam but something loose, probably the eccentric nuts on the Y axis rollers.
The bed is level, the problem is that the wheels on the rail are a bit too far apart. How do i fix this?
Two of the wheels have an adjustable eccentric nut between the bed carriage and the wheels. They are hexagonal, so you can use the spanner included with the printer to turn them - tighten them just enough to stop the wobble; none of the wheels should be able to turn freely without moving the bed. You may need to re-level the bed afterwards.
If the V roller wheels aren't tight on the Y axis beam, it means the eccentric nuts are not adjusted correctly. Two of the rollers are mounted centered on the holes in the carriage frame, but the other two are on eccentric nuts which displace them from center slightly depending on the orientation the nut is turned to, to allow tightening and loosening of the grip on the beam. Since the Y axis ones are hard to see under the bed, look at the X or Z ones to get an idea what to expect.
Note that the bolt through the whole roller assembly can loosen when adjusting the eccentric nut. You can probably avoid this by figuring out the right direction to turn it and only going that direction (continuing around just under 360 degrees if you go too far). If you do loosen the bolt then the eccentric nut will move on its own under vibration, so you need to re-tighten it. For the Y axis this might require taking off the bed or taking the carriage off the beam (by removing the belt and tensioner).
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.144437 | 2020-08-05T04:06:47 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14184",
"authors": [
"INDRESH SAHANI",
"Mushegh A.",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"Teng WANG",
"X Builder",
"alvst",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23125",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41238",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41239",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41241",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41250",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41254",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41566",
"tom",
"towe",
"احمد مهنى"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
13282 | Can I resolder a power connections with a partially burnt board
Recently my RAMPS power connector caught fire while heating the heated bed. I suspect this was a defect caused by the connector, and de-soldered/removed it as best I could. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I'm looking for advice on whether It is possible to re-solder the power connectors directly onto the board, or I'm just risking another fire. Here are pictures of the top and bottom.
As MIck wrote, we hope your board isn't damaged - with any luck there aren't any trace shorts in the melted region.
My approach would be slightly different. Use some short bits of wire soldered into the board at one end and soldered to a new connector socket at the other end. This way you can put a new plug connector on the power leads and be able to disconnect the board as desired.
Possible? Yes. Advisable? Perhaps not. Since it is the power connection, I would be tempted to solder the cables directly to the board. If the board is found to work, I would then install an external MOSFET for the heated bed, to reduce the amount of current that the controller has to handle.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.144645 | 2020-03-31T01:07:29 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13282",
"authors": [
"Ajinomoto Foods NA",
"Angel Brant",
"Daria D'Souza",
"Jackson Adams",
"dom kopo",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37487",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37488",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37489",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37497",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37501",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37505",
"vickysih23"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11953 | What glues to use for PETG?
In analogy to: What glues for bonding printed PLA to injection-molded plastic?, what are the best glues to use for PETG?
I mostly print in PETG and have occasional failed prints which I usually reprint. But what if I'd like to repair a print e.g. a split between layers or a part broken off?
Knowing that PETG is more "greasy" than PLA, what typical glues can you use to create a good bond; this question excludes using heat to (re-)bond.
From forum
Bison plastic - works great for me, only it's not "quick dry" but it's very strong, not brittle, holds PETG and PLA very strongly.
Buy paint stripper that is/contains methylene chloride (dichloromethane). It will solvent weld both PLA and PETG.
Or see other forum which recommends Eastman-910 (original brand of cyanoacrylate) or any equivalent, polyurethane glue, or even epoxy.
A strong epoxy like BSI 5-15 min works great for me. I use it to bond high power rocket fin halves printed from PETG:
If Carl's answer that cyanoacrylate glue works is accurate, I would suggest Loctite 420 or equivalent. It's diluted with solvents sufficiently to behave as a liquid rather than a gel, and in my experience on PLA it not only bonds the joint, but wicks between the extrusions and bonds walls/layers together much more strongly and waterproofs the part. As long as it bonds to PETG it should do the same for PETG.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.144791 | 2020-02-05T11:40:25 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11953",
"authors": [
"Camagu Sikhura",
"Danujan Sivasundaralingam",
"Doug Porter",
"Dr Adrienne Stewart Spam",
"Ken Hiatt",
"Lancashire Butcher",
"Pratibha Shinde",
"Shubham",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35300",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35301",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35302",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35311",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35312",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35313",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35314",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35315",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35316",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35325",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45623",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45625",
"hzhaoc",
"manarinian",
"فرح احمد",
"هيثم صلاح جوجل"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
10738 | Inconsistent Layer Issues
I was having some issues with printing, most noticeably in this picture:
The layers are very noticeable and sometimes have gaps, and the overhangs don't print very well (although the former is more of an issue). I just calibrated my E-steps so I don't think that is the issue. It was doing the same thing before I upgraded anything (i.e., I had issues on stock hardware).
My printer is an Ender 3 with the metal extruder upgrade (which replaces the plastic parts as seen here), an E3D v6, printed fan duct (Bullseye), glass bed, BLTouch, and vanilla Marlin. Pictures of it are also in the below album. The printed upgrades were printed on a Prusa MK3S and don't have the same issue.
I am using Hatchbox 1.75 mm gray PLA, printed at 215 °C with my bed at 60 °C. I am using Ultimaker Cura 4.1 but was also having the problems on an older version of Ultimaker Cura (maybe 3.6, but I can't remember which it was). The problems also existed with some Hatchbox 1.75 mm black PLA but I used the same roll on my Prusa MK3S without any issues, so I'm not sure if filament could be the cause (although it is a different printer so it's still a possibility).
I have tried at different printing speeds and the problem still persists.
I also recently tried varying the temperature during printing (first up to 222 °C then down to 200 °C) with no noticeable difference.
Extra pictures here.
Model is part of Printable Scenery's sorcerer tower.
This typically happens when the belts are not tight. Note that a Prusa printer is of better quality than an Ender.
Yes, it is a great printer. I figured I would include that to try to rule out non machine issues.
I was able to determine the cause of the problem. Combing was allowing too much filament to ooze out during long travels and reducing the max distance for combing removed the consistent gaps in the prints. I will add an answer detailing this.
The main issue here (the gaps between layers) was solved by reducing combing.
Combing was enabled without a limit on the range so a max combing distance of 10 mm was introduced. This prevented too much filament from oozing out during travels.
The oozing filament was causing nothing to come out of the nozzle at the beginning of an extrusion, thus creating the gaps that were consistent in location.
Interesting. Could you see oozing/stringing happening inside the infill area? Your experience could be a useful data point for boosting this Cura issue I have open: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/1084
Also, it might be interesting to retry this if you ever upgrade your Ender 3 to later Marlin with the Linear Advance feature. In theory it should greatly reduce the amount of oozing that can happen while combing over unprinted area (space between infill lines), and might be sufficient to stop it without limiting combing.
Good suggestion, I'll take a look into that feature if I have time. I'll try to add details later when I'm with the printer. As I remember, the oozing/stringing was not apparent during printing (I just stated that because I assume that was how the problem occurred), but adjusting the combing clearly removed the artifacts (I ran everything the same except the combing changed). The infill in both cases looked identical to me.
Actually, I just looked at them. There is a clear lack of stringing in the large infill areas but not the small ones in the combing reduced print.
These lines could be caused by a mechanical issue with the printer; it looks as if the positioning is not up to par.
This can be related to loose belts of the X-axis and Y-axis, or play in your system, e.g. look at the rollers of the carriage.
I've experienced an issue with play between the idler mounts and the smooth linear rods on a cheap 3D printer kit myself, but that is not the case here. Just added to explain where play may come from.
Thanks for the information, I will look into that tonight and update accordingly.
I was going to write an answer when I got back from mobile to desktop, and yeah, this is pretty much exactly what I thought. Almost surely something is too loose; if not loose, otherwise mechanically irregular.
I tried tightening the belts and printing again, but the print has the same layer issues as before (even in the same locations). I will test again to verify, but I think the issue may like somewhere else. I will update my question accordingly after I do some more testing.
@Blubberguy22 It is fair to say that this may be an answer that solves such problems. In your specific case the solution has to be found elsewhere, I'll leave leave the answer for others that may stumble onto this question having similar issues.
@Oscar definitely, and I think I may still have to tune my belts a bit anyways.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.144980 | 2019-08-01T13:28:42 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10738",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Blubberguy22",
"Chikita Isaac",
"David Pearson",
"Diagram Alley",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"SamsonStirling",
"Spammer",
"Tyeth",
"Vicente ARANCIBIA PENA",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16827",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30815",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30816",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30817",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30818",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30819",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30820",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30824",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31808",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31809",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"user30818",
"حسوني الزعيم"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11046 | Where to enable user interface encoder in Marlin?
I am trying to configure Marlin for a Ramps 1.6 board. I have an I2C 4x20 character LCD enabled. I have the LCD working with
#define LCD_SAINSMART_I2C_2004
I have a separate encoder, with push button, but I can't find where to enable it. It seems that combo display-encoder-buzzer boards are enabled as a set. Some common name, like the define I used for the display. But I can't find any useful information that includes a I2C LCD with an encoder.
I'm looking for a configuration that would enable my LCD and encoder, or just some way to enable the encoder by itself.
For some configurations I found the following. But when I connect my encoder to those pins nothing happens when I try it. So I think I need to enable them somewhere.
//encoder pins
#define BTN_EN1 31
#define BTN_EN2 33
#define BTN_ENC 35
It seems that ULTIPANEL must be defined. The code for the encoder was included long ago with the Ultipanel (display and encoder) and does not exist on its own.
#define LCD_SAINSMART_I2C_2004 // I2C LCD
#define ULTIPANEL // enable code for encoder.
//encoder pins
#define BTN_EN1 37
#define BTN_EN2 35
#define BTN_ENC 31
I notice that the BTN_ENx definitions differ from those posted in your question. These are the correct pins I guess, or can they be set to any pins, which the encoder is connected to? Also, did you have any links, or sources, for the code having been included and now no longer exists? The statement seems a bit confused. Presumably the code is still included, but requires the #define ULTIPANEL to enable it?
They can be to any available pin. Whatever is used, as long as it is defined the same, would work. I said the encoder code does not exist "on it's own". When the UNIPANEL became available someone wrote the code to use the complete LCD and Encoder as a set. Not as two separate components that would both have to be each selected. This is not a surprise, code grows organically, as is needed. I have not been able to locate the actual code. I got it working and didn't feel like spending more time looking for it at this time. But I do want to find it.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.145487 | 2019-09-19T22:37:23 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11046",
"authors": [
"Alessandro Torrisi",
"Dev",
"Greenonline",
"K-kibet",
"Paul",
"Rudy",
"Stopes Health",
"hashan senage",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12610",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31993",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31994",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31995",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32005",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32150",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32151",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32152",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"martti"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11096 | Why is some part of the print not aligned?
I'm using a Prusa Slicer with a FlyingBear Ghost 4 and got a wrong printing alignments on the Y axis only on a part of the printing object. What may cause this?
Here are the printed model pictures showing the problem:
Here are the settings:
# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.1.0+win64 on 2019-09-29 at 11:37:50 UTC
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,255x0,255x210,0x210
bed_temperature = 60
before_layer_gcode =
between_objects_gcode =
bottom_fill_pattern = rectilinear
bottom_solid_layers = 7
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_angle = 0
bridge_fan_speed = 100
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 60
brim_width = 0
clip_multipart_objects = 0
colorprint_heights =
complete_objects = 0
cooling = 1
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_acceleration = 0
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
disable_fan_first_layers = 3
dont_support_bridges = 1
duplicate_distance = 6
elefant_foot_compensation = 0
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 Y0 ; home X and Y axis\nM84 ; disable motors\n
ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 0
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
external_perimeter_speed = 50%
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_loading_move = -2
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
extrusion_axis = E
extrusion_multiplier = 1
extrusion_width = 0.45
fan_always_on = 0
fan_below_layer_time = 60
filament_colour = #FFFFFF
filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4
filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2
filament_cooling_moves = 4
filament_cost = 30
filament_density = 1.25
filament_deretract_speed = nil
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_load_time = 0
filament_loading_speed = 28
filament_loading_speed_start = 3
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15
filament_notes = ""
filament_ramming_parameters = "120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6"
filament_retract_before_travel = nil
filament_retract_before_wipe = nil
filament_retract_layer_change = nil
filament_retract_length = nil
filament_retract_lift = nil
filament_retract_lift_above = nil
filament_retract_lift_below = nil
filament_retract_restart_extra = nil
filament_retract_speed = nil
filament_settings_id = "FlyingBear Ghost 4"
filament_soluble = 0
filament_toolchange_delay = 0
filament_type = PLA
filament_unload_time = 0
filament_unloading_speed = 90
filament_unloading_speed_start = 100
filament_wipe = nil
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 20%
fill_pattern = stars
first_layer_acceleration = 0
first_layer_bed_temperature = 60
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42
first_layer_height = 0.2
first_layer_speed = 30
first_layer_temperature = 210
gap_fill_speed = 20
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_flavor = marlin
gcode_label_objects = 0
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_every_layers = 1
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
infill_first = 0
infill_only_where_needed = 0
infill_overlap = 25%
infill_speed = 80
interface_shells = 0
layer_gcode =
layer_height = 0.1
machine_max_acceleration_e = 10000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 1500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 9000,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 9000,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 120,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 12,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 10,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 10,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_fan_speed = 100
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 200
max_print_speed = 80
max_volumetric_speed = 0
min_fan_speed = 35
min_layer_height = 0.07
min_print_speed = 10
min_skirt_length = 0
notes =
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1
ooze_prevention = 0
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
overhangs = 1
parking_pos_retraction = 92
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
perimeter_speed = 60
perimeters = 4
post_process =
print_host =
print_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
raft_layers = 0
remaining_times = 0
resolution = 0
retract_before_travel = 2
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 2
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 40
seam_position = aligned
serial_port =
serial_speed = 250000
silent_mode = 1
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
single_extruder_multi_material_priming = 1
skirt_distance = 6
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slice_closing_radius = 0.049
slowdown_below_layer_time = 5
small_perimeter_speed = 15
solid_infill_below_area = 70
solid_infill_every_layers = 0
solid_infill_extruder = 1
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
solid_infill_speed = 20
spiral_vase = 0
standby_temperature_delta = -5
start_filament_gcode = "; Filament gcode\n"
start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n
support_material = 1
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_auto = 1
support_material_buildplate_only = 0
support_material_contact_distance = 0.2
support_material_enforce_layers = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0.35
support_material_interface_contact_loops = 0
support_material_interface_extruder = 1
support_material_interface_layers = 3
support_material_interface_spacing = 0
support_material_interface_speed = 100%
support_material_pattern = rectilinear
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 60
support_material_synchronize_layers = 0
support_material_threshold = 0
support_material_with_sheath = 1
support_material_xy_spacing = 50%
temperature = 210
thin_walls = 1
threads = 4
toolchange_gcode =
top_fill_pattern = rectilinear
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0.4
top_solid_infill_speed = 15
top_solid_layers = 9
travel_speed = 150
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 1
wipe = 0
wipe_into_infill = 0
wipe_into_objects = 0
wipe_tower = 0
wipe_tower_bridging = 10
wipe_tower_rotation_angle = 0
wipe_tower_width = 60
wipe_tower_x = 180
wipe_tower_y = 140
wiping_volumes_extruders = 70,70
wiping_volumes_matrix = 0
xy_size_compensation = 0
z_offset = 0
Hi Eric, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Note, 210 ℃ is pretty hot for PLA. Your defects look if they are heat related.
@0scar what temperature do you recommend me for nozzle and bed?
First lower the temperature to 200, also look into questions and solutions concerning stringing.
Thx for your answer 0scar, tested a few small model and figured that 195 cause less stringing and the printing stay together way more effectively. For the stringing thing, I did found the retraction feature in the slicer configuration.
Your defect is not related to misalignment at all, it is a lack of cooling and too hot print.
@Trish cooling is at 1, is that 100 % fan? Couldn't find fan speed in the list. If that is true, the cooling duct may be too narrow for proper flow.
This looks like your problems are lack of retraction and having the slicer's "overhangs" setting enabled.
Retraction is absolutely essential when your print has layers with multiple disconnected components, and even when it doesn't, it's usually important. Without retraction, material will continue to flow out of the nozzle after extrusion is supposed to have stopped, producing oozing/stringing and subsequent underextrustion (due to the material already having been lost elsewhere).
The "overhangs" setting is actively harmful unless your printer firmware has "linear advance" feature and you have calibrated it properly. Otherwise, when reaching part of the perimeter that's an overhang, the print head motion will slow down (I think PrusaSlicer does 10-20 mm/s for overhangs), but extrusion will continue at the full previous rate until pressure in the nozzle subsides. This is what's causing all the ugly sagging loops around the tail. Disable this misfeature so that print speed remains constant between overhang and non-overhang parts of the perimeters.
Awesome answer! Thx for the info. I use 3D modeling software for now 3 years but just started to 3d printing 2 weeks ago, but rendering and printing isn't the same thing at all.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.145689 | 2019-09-29T03:13:45 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11096",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Andrew Burns",
"Boden",
"Eric Brochu",
"Jason V.",
"Marcii",
"Nirmiti Kalekar",
"SamirPaul",
"Spammer",
"Tim",
"Trish",
"Wayan",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18678",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32140",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32141",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32142",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32143",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32144",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32146",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32149",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32154",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32155",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32159",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"tmountjr"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11290 | What is the purpose behind a glass nozzle?
So while doing some research I stumbled upon a wiki page on reprap from a few years back where the user was creating a glass nozzle to replace the brass and PTFE assembly.1
Does anyone know the theory behind this? Glass is a great insulator so I could see how that would be beneficial for the heat break part but I can't see how it is appropriate for the nozzle as this is normally brass which is a good conductor.
Surely the glass takes much more energy to heat up?
On a side note I've seen similar projects using ceramic instead.
Welcome to 3dPrinting.SE! While I don't know for sure, I'd suggest the reason for it is glass has great wear properties. You're right in that it has great insulative properties, which means to me it wouldn't transfer heat into the filament very well ... which is probably why it has never really been used too much (if at all). Just my speculation, though, as I don't know for sure.
First off, this is not a glass nozzle, it is a whole hotend design. A super simplistic one.
Glass is, like ceramics, not a good thermal conductor but has a quite good thermal resistance - it only melts at about 1600 °C, which means you will never have to fight melting or warping of the filament path itself at all - the heater copper wire will melt at about 1084 °C, so way before the glass, and most plastics that are printable start to decompose at less than 400°C.
Construction-wise, this design has some benefits:
Due to the design and material properties, this hotend doesn't need cooling fins and a "coldend" is not needed at all.
The whole hotend being one solid piece makes it pretty much a "plug and play" item and prevents leaks.
Glass is extremely abrasive resistant. This means a glass nozzle could be used for stuff like carbon fiber filament very long.
Glass can be molten, repaired and modified with fairly simple equipment, e.g. a burner and some skill.
Glass could be easily cleaned up to medical and food-grade machine ratings. The simplicity of the hotend assembly could make it autoclavable as a whole piece.
It has some downsides though:
Glass is brittle and does not take lateral forces and sharp impacts kindly. In other words: Handle with extreme care.
Due to the glass being an insulator, the inside of the hotend will have a lower temperature than the outside.
A fairly thin-walled meltzone could mitigate this problem to some degree at the downside of making it even more prone to breaking
The insulating behavior means, that the meltzone has to directly feed into the nozzle with as little unheated area as possible to prevent the molten plastic from solidifying inside the nozzle again.
The skill needed to create a properly sized nozzle from glass is tremendous.
Many glasses have their glass transition between 500 and 800 °C, they get soft far below the melting point (quartz glass being the exception).
@cbeleitessupportsMonica most copper wires also start to destroy themselves well below the melting point. Plus, softening of the glass would be of no issiue: no plastic is shaped at 500 to 800 °C but the highest ones I know are worked at 300-400 °C.
Ceramic I can understand - very strong, great thermal range capability. Glass not so much - you'd need some seriously careful annealing at least.
In either case the material is much harder than brass, or even steel, so you could presumably use tougher tools to unclog, etc. as needed. If you're using materials loaded with wood or metallic particles, the glass/ceramic tip will be less likely to degrade than brass.
BTW, glass being a thermal insulator means it may take longer to heat up, but the energy required is probably less . The specific heat of glass is on the order of .84 J/gm-K . Compare with brass at 0.38 , but keep in mind the rate at which brass will shed heat into the air vs. glass. In either case the energy is tiny compared with the thermal mass of the hotend assembly.
Is being an insulator possibly beneficial to keeping the molten material at temperature as it exits? I would think metal nozzles are somewhat below the hotend temperature at their tips.
@R.. they are a little, but the thermal flow in the nozzle is much higher. think about it like this: A ceramic plate can be heated on one spot and be brought to glow there, and a couple centimeters over, it is almost room temperature, as the flow through it is bad. If the same plate was metal, it would be much hotter there. I expect that a glass or ceramic nozzle would be quite colder than the heating zone.
@Trish: With enough time and energy, an insulator can be properly heated across its body. But, more importantly (and extending R's point), the higher the heat flux of the material, the less fickle it is in terms of shedding heat to variation in circumstances (e.g. drafts). I'd wager a guess that a more consistent nozzle temperature leads to a more consistent flow out of the nozzle, leading to a better overall printed product.
In contrast to the page linked in the question, I'd probably want to go for quartz glass - that would avoid a whole lot of trouble wrt. tensions due to temperature changes. It also has a much higher glass transition temperature than "normal" glasses. Of course, correspondingly higher temperatures are needed to draw the capillary.
The glass nozzle might be beneficial with abrasive filaments with metal particles that would wear down the brass. As glass can be reasonably easily shaped into a nozzle with standard DIY-tools it might be an interesting project.
A commercial nozzle for filaments with extreme abrasive properties is the Olsson Ruby nozzle. These are designed to hold an actual ruby in it, though ruby is probably not feasible for a DIY-nozzle.
I believe the ruby nozzles were running about $100US. Not something I'd purchase for intermittent use, that's for sure.
I can order an Olsson Ruby for a little shy of 100€ per piece for the base version and about 170€ for the high temp version.
The glass nozzle was an attempt to be able to see the plastic filament melting and to see what is happening during retraction. I also though to use a glass nozzle to heat the plastic to just under melting point then use a LED laser (10 Watts thereabout) to heat just the tip of the plastic through the nozzle to bring it to the final temp where it would melt. Turns out it is unneeded, and lasers waste a lot of energy as heat.
One shortcoming would be that when it comes back to lay down a new line next to an existing line, I would think that it would need to be able to melt the previously printed plastic, especially any bumps and strings.
High thermal conductivity for good heat flow seems important.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.146165 | 2019-11-04T14:46:33 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11290",
"authors": [
"Auto Spam Factory",
"DJ. Aduvanchik",
"Derek Vair",
"Flater",
"Kathy Zieger",
"MattDMo",
"Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"Raye Keslensky",
"River Oaks Construction",
"Spam",
"Spammer",
"Trish",
"UltraBob",
"ali ghamari",
"cbeleites",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18598",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19060",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32883",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32884",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32885",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32886",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32896",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32903",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32904",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32906",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32907",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32908",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32913",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33014",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"its.just.me"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11201 | How to get rid of deforming small prints?
When printing a big base on the bed, I got no warping, but once I print small part (3 or less inches wide), there is a bit of warping on my piece as I remove it.
It is 2 inches wide by 1 mm thick by the base. It seems to be well sticked to the bed while printing, but once removed, it bends a bit. I tried multiple times and it bends at a different place.
I was wondering if it may be thicker if it won't bend at all.
Can you guys help me with it?
Here my Slic3r settings:
# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.1.0+win64 on 2019-10-19 at 11:38:38 UTC
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
bed_temperature = 60
bottom_fill_pattern = rectilinear
bottom_solid_layers = 7
brim_width = 5
cooling = 1
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 Y0 ; home X and Y axis\nG1 Z210 F5000 ; Send Z to top\nM84 ; disable motors\n
ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 1
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
external_perimeter_speed = 50%
extrusion_multiplier = 1
extrusion_width = 0.45
fan_always_on = 1
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_settings_id = "FlyingBear Ghost 4"
filament_type = PLA
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 20%
fill_pattern = stars
first_layer_bed_temperature = 65
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42
first_layer_height = 0.2
first_layer_speed = 30
first_layer_temperature = 200
infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
infill_overlap = 25%
infill_speed = 80
layer_height = 0.1
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
perimeter_speed = 45
print_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4
printer_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4
printer_technology = FFF
retract_before_travel = 1
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 1
retract_length = 0.8
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 209
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 40
seam_position = aligned
As I said, I got no problem adhering to the bed, it's when I remove it from the bed it becomes deformed.
@EricBrochu you can't switch comments to answers. Often, very "common" errors tend to end in comments first as a first step of troubleshooting, which then get formulated out into answers later.
Pla is flexible and can be shaped at temperatures as low as 50 deg C. To prevent deforming your prints in removing them, you should wait for the bed to reach room temperature. This takes about 5 minutes after a print ended.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.146664 | 2019-10-19T11:44:15 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11201",
"authors": [
"Helcio R. Macedo Pandelo",
"Joseph Coppin",
"Matthew West",
"Mohd Khalid",
"Spammer",
"Trish",
"Tycho Ordo",
"Witiko",
"Wiz chimney spamming company",
"coraleco",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32542",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32543",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32544",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32549",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32557",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32563",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32576",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32577",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32583",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32584",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11218 | How does slipping Bowden tube affect retraction or does it at all?
I have an Ender 3 Pro with upgraded Bowden capricorn tube. The tube will move approximately 1-2 mm during normal operation, though it will not come out of the coupler at all. I have read that the movement if unchanging (constant movement of 1-2 mm) can be compensated for with settings adjustment to avoid retraction issues such that it will extrude or retract "that much less"... I do not understand how this is possible...
Im confused by comments that a slipping Bowden tube on the extruder side only, say by up to 2 mm, is "lost retraction"... I have this problem too with the Bowden tube only at the extruder end, not the hotend, and wonder if it is really an issue at all. Here's why...
The filament is in direct contact with the gear and wheel of the extruder. If the Bowden tube is only moving in/out of the extruder end of the coupler, there are no "gaps" being created to cause leakage of the filament, etc on the hot end...As the extruder is either pushing or retracting, the filament inside the tube is still moving as much as intended regardless of the amount of play of the Bowden tube... no? therefore, retracting will not be affected at all, nor would the extruding process. Am I wrong and if so, can someone explain to me how this would be?
Note, I can see that this movement may cause under-extrusion on the feeding side process, as the machine is expecting say, 0.5 mm extrusion, but then has to compensate (unknowingly) for the slipping out tube during the "push", so not enough gets "out", but should not affect the retraction amount as the filament is still being pulled directly from the gears/roller.
Am I wrong and if so, can someone explain to me how this would affect the retraction along with the under-extrusion?
Hi and welcome to SE.3DP :-)
To prevent the tube from slipping, use a clip on the pneumatic connectors.
It does have the clip, but the tube slips anyway. I have been looking at replacement of this part since it was like this out of the box for both "stock" creality part and the one supplied with the metal extruder and info suggests aftermarket connectors with metal teeth are the best fix.
The slipping does result in lost retraction distance. It does not result in underextrusion, lost material (except possibly via having insufficient retraction after the reduction), or anything like that.
If your retraction is set to 6 mm, but the bowden pulls 2 mm into the coupler when you retract, those first 2 mm of filament motion do not pull the filament out of the hotend at all. The position of the filament relative to the tube (and thus relative to the nozzle) remains constant. After the tube can be pulled back no further into the coupler, the remaining retraction pulls the filament back through the bowden tube, for 4 mm of retraction at the hotend/nozzle.
When unretracting, the reverse happens. The first 2 mm of extruder motion push the bowden tube out of the coupler, and don't move the filament relative to the tube (or the hotend). After that the next 4 mm push the filament through the tube and back to the nozzle orifice.
The result is the filament ending up back exactly where it started, but having backed out only 4 mm from the nozzle, not the requested 6 mm.
These numbers are just examples but probably about right. If you put the plastic clip on the pneumatic coupler, the slipping should stop, but you can also just increase retraction if the amount after the loss to slipping is not sufficient.
The retraction is also delayed, since the first 2 mm (in your example) of movement do nothing, although they may result in a quick reduction of the extrusion pressure in the nozzle.
@cmm: Yes, that's a great point. It doesn't matter too much for the way slicers normally use retraction, doing it synchronously before moving on with travel moves, but it would be a major problem if they did it concurrently with travel, and it would utterly break linear-advance.
This is happening to my E3 pro. When the Bowden tube slips back filament fills up the gap causing a heat creep issue. This of course causes clogged nozzle. If retracting I have had the swollen filament lodge in the tube to the point I had to remove tube and heat high enough with heat gun to soften filament for a reverse pull as there was nothing left on the hotend side to pull.
My solution after a week of frustration was to replace the coupling.
This effect you describe is not heat creep. New tube, new coupling and a horseshoe washer will fix this.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.146819 | 2019-10-21T16:41:55 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11218",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Alfonso",
"Greenonline",
"Guategeek",
"James Mckibben",
"Johnny",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"Saar",
"cmm",
"concatenate_admin",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18900",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32596",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32597",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32598",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32599",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32602",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43525",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43546",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"user1063951",
"utopman"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
10513 | How can I add an extra fan, controlled by a microcontroller, to my board?
I recently discovered this kit after reading this Instructables, Adding More Extruders to Any 3d Printer:
I'm pretty sure I can use this kit with my board since it uses the same drivers as mine. But that's for motors, not fans. And while I know G-code pretty well, I'm not sure how I would use this to activate and deactivate a fan from G-code. There is probably a better way to do this.
The board I am using is from an FLSUN Large Scale 3D printer. Here is a picture of the board:
There appears to be only one labeled pin for the fan. BUT even if there are other pins that I don't recognize, they would have to be controlled by a micro controller (G-code commands). There appear to be a bunch of un-used pins in the bottom right of the board. But if this board just can't do it, there is a newer board here: [link removed].
It does seem like it is using Arduino and the newer board might have extra pins for a fan. But at that point, would it be easier (cheaper) to just control the fan from the extruder extender kit? Would I just set it as an extruder with a really high filament extrusion speed and send appropriate G-code commands when needed to run it at max voltage?
I know on my Lulzbot Mini there is a "parts cooling" fan which allows you to cool off the layers as your structure rises vertically. This is a fan I want. The parts cooling fan must be controlled by the micro controller. It only comes on when printing vertically.
I would like to actually add two fans like this to my 3D printer. One of them is a >= 5 V cooling fan like above. Another is a regular 12 V cooling fan for an extra extruder that I am adding.
Am I even able to use two motors at once? Assuming I was able to control a fan from the extruder extender... Would I be able to run the fan, and keep printing, then turn off the fan later?
I could use the LCD pins somehow?
I was wrong, you'll just need custom firmware. Your wiring diagram is wrong though.
Adding fans has been discussed in other questions, why does it specifically need to be through an additional microcontroller as it can be done by your current board/microcontroller.
@Oscar I can control it by the same microcontroller, there doesn't need to be an additional microcontroller. The problem with this question was that I didn't notice there was even a pin for a microcontrollable fan! It wasn't labeled in the assembly manual and was off in the distance.
Ok, Steve, thanks for the update. I have added an image of the product rather than a link, as it is more appropriate. Now, regarding the second link, apparently it sets off virus warnings. @0scar noticed them this morning
Note: With the firmware it is shipped, the FAN port is 100% all the time. you need to re-pin the software, but you have lots of other free pins that could be programmed for though
The MKS Gen L v1.0 Board you are using does support microcontroller controlled fans without doing some surface level modification to the board via the D9/FAN. The port you marked FAN is not a controllable port, it runs a direct 12/24 V all the time and should be used for the Hotend cooling solution. The ports D7/HE1 and D10/HE0 are for two hotendes, corresponding to E0 and E1.
Variant A: Swappy Fans
This is the more tricky variant and does need both coding and wiring expertise.
You'll have to run both hotend cooling fans via that one port in the top left corner. Make sure they are running fast enough to keep the heatsinks cool and prevent heat creep!
Your custom Firmware will have to define D9 as a microcontroller controlled Fan instead of a 100 % running fan as the normal firmware is most likely.
Without extra hardware, you can't get 2 individually controllable ports from D9, but you can use, the fact that you don't want part cooling for a hotends in 'resting' position. So a pair of couple Normally Closed switches cab achieve disabling of the resting hotend's part cooling fan:
make a wire splitter for D9, so that you have both + and both --wires connect to the one +/--pin on the board. You'll have the part cooling fans in parallel now.
Do the same for the Hotend Cooling Fans!
connect each +-line to a Normally Closed switch, which is installed on the hotend in a way so it triggers and opens the line if the hotend is in the resting (homing) position.
As the line connects when the hotend moves into the build volume, the part cooling fan on the currently active hotend starts to spin while the one of the non-active hotend is isolated.
Variant B: MOSFETs and Safety
An alternate source for the part cooling fan signals might be the SERVOS1/SERVOS2 group, where D4 to D6 and D11 are accessible. This leaves the FAN and top-left 12 V pinnings free for the hotend cooling. The downside is, that these pins don't likely provide 12 V but at best a 5 V digital output. However, a 0 to 5 V signal can be used to control a separate MOSFET which outputs 0 to 12 V, which then can power the part cooling fans. Due to the power draw of the Fans, a simple step-up converter is not a solution it needs a separate power supply.
The Main benefit is, that this does draw less power from the board than Variant A and does not re-pin D9. The "Cooling Fan Board" could use a 6-line ribbon cable to connect to the SERVOS1 pins, using the 5V as reference for the MOSFETs, D4/D5 as the trigger signal and GND as return lines.
A pre-assembled board that could serve in this position would be a L298N Driver. Due to how it is set up, one could run both part cooling fans, if their speed is set up to be always equal.
WOW I missed that open one. Thank you!!! What circuit hardware would I need to extend this port into two controllable ports?
For your information, the MKS GEN L is basically a RAMPS board as the pin layout of the RAMPS configuration is used in the firmware of the MKS GEN L (see e.g. the Marlin source code).
@KMmmm I am far better on the hardware side... The Code snippet linked by 0scar uses the pins in AUX1. The 5V fans spin slowly because the board only provides a very low current of the right voltage but the fans need considerably more.
You can use the M42 g-code to manually set any supported digital pin, which can then be used to either enable one of the on-board MOSFETs (D7, D8, D9, D10) or an external MOSFET.
For example, M42 P9 S255 would enable the parts cooling fan at 100 %.
You should never run any fan or heater directly off of a microcontroller pin (the ATmega2560 on your board supports up to 40 mA. Standard 5 V fans I found online tend to draw 100 mA or more).
Your board supports up to four switchable "power" outputs - bed, heater 0, heater 1 and FAN.
Depending on what you use so far, one of those may be usable for your fans.
Note that on-board MOSFETs usually switch the ground side of the connected device.
This means that you for your 12 V fan, you can connect it directly to one of those connectors.
The 5 V would have to receive +5 V from elsewhere (like the +5 V pins near the bottom right mounting hole), but you can still control the fan by connecting its ground lead over one of the on-board MOSFETs.
If four MOSFETs are not enough for you, the L298N module provides an easy way to control four additional fans, while using normal digital pins to control the L298N.
Please note that it is not advised to run a fan from a digital pin directly, the current can be too much for the microprocessor, instead connect the pin to a (external) MOSFET to schedule either a 12 V or 5 V load.
Thanks. Just to summarize so that I have it clear. I can connect a 12V fan to the "FAN" pin (D9). That's something I can do today, because it is one of the four "power" outputs.
But when I use the L298N module, I will also need to buy external MOFSETS? I can research this part separately.
Correct, you can connect a 12V fan to D9 / the fan connector and control it via firmware / g-code.
The L298N essentially is a module with four external MOSFETs in it. It's suitable for driving one stepper motor, two DC motors (in either direction) or four "single direction" loads such as fans.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.147250 | 2019-07-07T18:04:14 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10513",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Greenonline",
"K Mmmm",
"Trish",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"towe"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
10420 | Tevo tarantula Z- port burnt
I burnt the Z- port for the Z endstop. Can I use the Z+ port? I'm using Jim Brown's Marlin firmware.
Any help to change that is highly appreciated. I know nothing about code. Sorry for my ignorance. I'm new on this 3D printing universe.
burnt? Can you show a photo?
Assuming line 585 of Configuration.h looks like this
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
That is to say, if the Maximum endstop ports/plugs aren't currently being used, then you could just redefine the pin used by ZMIN (Z-) to be that currently being used by the ZMAX (Z+), in the appropriate pins_XXXX.h file (contained within MarlinTarantula/Marlin/src/pins/), where XXXX depends upon which board you have (I don't know what board your printer has).
For example, if you have a RAMPS board then in pins_RAMPS.h at line 79 you would change
//
// Limit Switches
//
#define X_MIN_PIN 3
#ifndef X_MAX_PIN
#define X_MAX_PIN 2
#endif
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15
#define Z_MIN_PIN 18
#define Z_MAX_PIN 19
to become (note the change in the last two lines)
//
// Limit Switches
//
#define X_MIN_PIN 3
#ifndef X_MAX_PIN
#define X_MAX_PIN 2
#endif
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15
#define Z_MIN_PIN 19
#define Z_MAX_PIN 18
Then compile and reflash the firmware.
Obviously you would then plug the Z_MIN (Z-) wire from the endstop into the Z_MAX (Z+) port.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.147790 | 2019-06-28T17:00:23 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10420",
"authors": [
"Trish",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
10594 | Infill keeps "shoveling", but perimeters are fine
While printing PET-G (@ 220 °C nozzle and over 58 °C bed temperature), the outlines always print fine but the infill keeps shoveling. Could I be printing too hot or too cold? I am using a 0.8 mm nozzle.
Shoveling is when the plastic is over extruding to the point at which it starts piling up in the path of the nozzle, usually resulting in an uneven surface. Visually, it manifests like a snow plow shoveling snow. I tried adding an image, but, the filament is black so that turned out to be a difficult task.
This reason why this is a problem is because the nozzle hits those peaks while printing, which seems to be causing the print to detach from the bed. I've also noticed the print curling up at the edges, but I think that's a separate problem.
I am printing at 3000 mm/min. The outline, and the infill is 80 % of that. The layer height is 0.6 mm
Normally, what you're calling shoveling is caused by having the bed too high - when you deposit enough material for a space that should be the nominal layer height high, but significantly less volume is available, it has nowhere to go but up around the edges of the nozzle.
However, in your case your temperatures are also seriously wrong for PETG. The normal recommended range of nozzle temperature for PETG is 230-250 °C, and in my experience, you need the full 250 °C to have any hope of printing fast. At 220 °C I'm really surprised you're not having problems with underextrusion instead.
The bed temperature is likely even more important. Minimum bed temperature for PETG is 80 °C. If the material is hitting a 58 °C bed as it comes out, it's likely to cool way too fast. This may lead to what you call shoveling (especially if you see both pits and ridges rather than just ridges), but even if not, it's going to prevent the material from bonding to previously laid down lines, so that your print will end up more brittle than PLA.
One additional detail I initially missed involves your 0.8 mm nozzle. It might be hard for the hotend to keep up with properly melting that much PETG at normal print speeds. As noted in the comments, a 50 mm/s linear extrusion rate with an 0.8 mm nozzle is equivalent, in volumetric extrusion rate, to a 200 mm/s linear extrusion rate with a typical 0.4 mm nozzle, which would be extremely fast for PETG. It's unlikely that any hotend except a "volcano" or similar (with extended melt zone length) could keep up with raising that much material to 250 °C that quickly.
I upped the temp but it didn't work. Had to strip the pva off the bed, retram and try again. Still didn't working. Changed settings. Still getting problems. I think I'll retire the 0.8 nozzle.
@R, So heat up, slow down and reduce the layer height or upgrade to an all metal hotend (e.g. e3d)
@user77232: "All metal" is not what makes a hotend capable of doing high extrusion rates. It needs a longer melting zone and maybe larger heating element. The "volcano" and similar models are the ones to look at, as I understand it.
I slowed down and cut the layer height in half. That seems to have solved the problem. I have other problems though.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.147920 | 2019-07-15T03:56:21 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10594",
"authors": [
"Fremont",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"Spammer",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30612",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30613",
"user77232"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
10565 | Using maximum width when slicing in Ultimaker Cura
I am trying to slice a model that is half a mm less than max width, but not successful.
What am I missing? Is there some minimum value less than maximum allowed, or something?
Edit: after changing the width to 220 in machine settings, slicing works. This is a dangerous thing to do, as it could damage the printer.
Did you try centering it on the build plate?
That's the default is it not?
I would try right clicking on the model and centering it on the build plate. Maybe that will help.
I just tried it and it made no difference.
Ok. Let me try some things in my version of Cura
Concerning your "edit", this is not how you should tackle this problem; an in depth description is given in my answer below. Readers of this question should be aware of the danger this could bring, including destroying their machine.
HI Tomas, I've striked out the info in the edit, as it seems a bit dangerous, as @0scar states. Also, If it is a solution,or rather your propsed solution, then it should be posted as a answer, so that it can be voted upon, else it breaks the Q&A format of Stack Exchange. If, however, it is part of the question, and you are asking why that makes it work, and what can be done about it, and why does it make it work, then (I guess) it could be left in place, but with caveats included, stating that this is a dangerous practice. I hope that you see what I mean :-)
The tolerances on the positioning of the build plate might add up to half a mm. There is just some bound where Cura says: "no, it's too dangerous." That bound is about half a mm.
Take a look at this post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15588-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area/. As the raft/skirt/brim will fall outside of the build volume, Cura is not able to slice it. Look at the the answer by @ahouben. He suggests that if you want to use the maximum build volume :
adhesion type = brim
brim line count = 0
travel avoid distance = 0
horizontal expansion = 0
support horizontal expansion = 0 (if support is enabled)
draft shield disabled
ooze shield disabled
infill wipe distance = 0
Note that in most cases brim with brim line count=0 will get you most of the way there
Try this and see if it makes a difference.
Yes, I have skirt I think, so that makes sense.
Neither "none" nor "brim" + line count zero works.
Finding all the other options would take all night, and probably most of next week also.
If you go into Preferences -> Configure Cura -> Settings (on the left side), then you can easily search for them and add them. Also, be sure Cura knows that you have a single extruder printer as a dual extruder's print head will take up more room.
Sure, but changing the machine settings is easier, I believe.
@TomasBy That might be easier, but the incorrect solution!
Why brim and not just adhesion type "none"?
This answer already addresses that Ultimaker Cura "eats up" platform space for e.g. skirt, brim, raft, dual extruder, deposition of priming blob, prime towers, etc. Disabling those features will reclaim platform space so you can print larger prints. However, that will only work when your printer is correctly configured! E.g. the center of the bed needs to be the center of the center in the slicer which needs to have the specific sizes of the bed dimensions. Note that increasing the bed size past the actual dimensions is not considered to be a nice solution, it is an easy work-around that gives you extra space in X+ and Y+, i.e. it does not center this newly created space, furthermore, this can destroy your printer is there is tight space left on those axes! Let's illustrate that with an example, if you have a 200x200 mm build plate and want to slice something of size 200x200 mm, this should be centered around (100, 100), if you change the bed size to 220x220 mm, Ultimaker Cura will center the print around (110, 110) which means that the print maximum coordinates are 210 mm; this is outside the bed area and potentially can destroy your printer!
What you should check is if the physical center of your bed actually is the center as defined by the firmware of the printer (surprisingly, many of the cheaper printer have this incorrectly configured). The answers on question "How to center my prints on the build platform?" (Re-calibrate homing offset) describe how you could do that.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.148172 | 2019-07-12T22:32:49 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10565",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Greenonline",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"Rosalie W",
"Tim Kuipers",
"Tomas By",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16308",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7956",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9201"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
10643 | Digital vs. analog pins
In the RAMPS v1.4 board, it seems like the X, Y, and Z motors all use at least one analog pin, while the extruder motors are entirely digital. See just the top left block of this photo:
Is there any advantage to using analog vs. digital pins in the motors?
As far as I can tell the traditional thermistors have to be have an Analog pin input because of the way they are read and processed. The MOSFETs for the heated bed and hot ends (and fans) should be digital because of the way transistors work. The end-stops are also digital because they are on-off switches.
But besides that, I can't tell if there is any other requirements or advantages to using some pins in analog / digital, especially for the motors which have seemingly contradictory pin assignments.
There are also three digital pins I don't recognize: MISO, MOSI, and SCK.
Right now I'm looking to add 2 new motors using 8 total pins (6 Digital pins, 2 for ground). It seems to me I could use any combination of the D pin available in the image:
MISO/MOSI/SCK are pins for a SPI bus.
I might pose this as another question, but is it possible to connect two 3D printer boards of the same kind through that SPI and communicate through one to the other using G code? I couldn't find any tutorials online, but when I googled SPI just now it seems like that is exactly what it is for.
I just want to basically have double the pins of every pin on my current board... Right now I am collecting MOSFETs, thermisters, motors, etc, but the simplest possible circuit would help a lot. I don't want there to be a significant delay from one command to the other (like using Repetier-Host's "execute" command would entail)
I don't think that would work for synchronizing them at a reasonable precision, but I may be mistaken. SPI is rather awful.
"Analog pin" is misleading nomenclature. Every pin is a digtal pin, but some digital pins happen to also be connected to the analog-to-digital converter and can thus also handle measuring analog signals.
Every analog pin can also serve as a perfectly good digital pin. The reverse is not true; if something requires an analog pin you cannot use a digital pin. The only things that require analog pins are the thermistors, for the rest (motors, MOSFETS, endstops,...) you can use either a digital pin or an analog pin.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.148537 | 2019-07-21T02:57:43 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10643",
"authors": [
"K Mmmm",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
10853 | Baud rate for Ender 3 on Repetier Host (Debian)
Trying to set up Repetier host for Ender 3 on Debian.
The /dev/ttyUSBx is found via dmesg, this value goes in config -> printer settings -> port.
Printer connects fine, but commands do not send. Status reads
xx commands waiting.
I have tried all the various baud rate settings <= 250k to no avail.
Is there something else I should be trying, or what is the correct baud rate to set?
dmesg:
[2828465.418249] usb 1-13: USB disconnect, device number 77
[2828465.418480] ftdi_sio ttyUSB0: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now disconnected from ttyUSB0
[2828465.418492] ftdi_sio 1-13:1.0: device disconnected
[2828469.171168] usb 1-13: new full-speed USB device number 82 using xhci_hcd
[2828469.329014] usb 1-13: New USB device found, idVendor=0403, idProduct=6001, bcdDevice= 6.00
[2828469.329017] usb 1-13: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3
[2828469.329018] usb 1-13: Product: FT232R USB UART
[2828469.329020] usb 1-13: Manufacturer: FTDI
[2828469.329021] usb 1-13: SerialNumber: A107MDUQ
[2828469.332455] ftdi_sio 1-13:1.0: FTDI USB Serial Device converter detected
[2828469.332485] usb 1-13: Detected FT232RL
[2828469.332756] usb 1-13: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now attached to ttyUSB0
lsusb:
Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub
Bus 003 Device 003: ID 0a5c:21e8 Broadcom Corp. BCM20702A0 Bluetooth 4.0
Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub
Bus 001 Device 081: ID 18d1:4ee1 Google Inc. Nexus Device (MTP)
Bus 001 Device 002: ID 1b1c:1b45 Corsair
Bus 001 Device 046: ID 1b1c:1b50 Corsair
Bus 001 Device 049: ID 14cd:1212 Super Top microSD card reader (SY-T18)
Bus 001 Device 082: ID 0403:6001 Future Technology Devices International, Ltd FT232 Serial (UART) IC
Bus 001 Device 060: ID 1908:0226 GEMBIRD
Bus 001 Device 059: ID 046d:c52b Logitech, Inc. Unifying Receiver
Bus 001 Device 058: ID 05e3:0610 Genesys Logic, Inc. 4-port hub
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
usb-devices:
T: Bus=01 Lev=01 Prnt=01 Port=12 Cnt=02 Dev#= 82 Spd=12 MxCh= 0
D: Ver= 2.00 Cls=00(>ifc ) Sub=00 Prot=00 MxPS= 8 #Cfgs= 1
P: Vendor=0403 ProdID=6001 Rev=06.00
S: Manufacturer=FTDI
S: Product=FT232R USB UART
S: SerialNumber=A107MDUQ
C: #Ifs= 1 Cfg#= 1 Atr=a0 MxPwr=90mA
I: If#=0x0 Alt= 0 #EPs= 2 Cls=ff(vend.) Sub=ff Prot=ff Driver=ftdi_sio
Presumably lsusb shows the printer (as it would be the same as dmesg)? Maybe try usb-devices, I think it gives you the speed. See command to determine ports of a device (like /dev/ttyUSB0). If this works, I can turn the comment into an answer
I think this is the entry
Bus 001 Device 077: ID 0403:6001 Future Technology Devices International, Ltd FT232 Serial (UART) IC
Can you edit your question (not in comments) and post the full output for dmesg, lsusb and usb-devices? I'm most interested in the output of usb-devices. Maybe usbview?
Hmmm, so it is FTDI and not a troublesome CH340(G). Interesting. I guess that you've double checked that this the board, by disconnecting the printer, running the commands, and then connecting the printer and runningthe commands again, to compare the difference. Also, it seems that the speed isn't given after all... I was hoping that Spd was speed, but yours shows 12. It isn't clear what Spd signifies.
Your firmware configuration may vary (probably worth checking what you have set), but from The Ender 3 configuration is set to 115200 baud rate #12174, the standard baud rate seems to be 115200.
I think the default Ender 3 configuration is aligned to the Ender3 official confg, which has 115200 so...
Ah, but this is Marlin, and you're using Repetier. Hmmm, maybe ignore that then.
According to Recommended baud rate?:
Normally 115200 or 250000 baud should work find and usb->serial latency is the bottleneck.
Apart from that I don't know. Sorry. I might delete this answer, if it doesn't help.
I still dont have repetier running, but i took the plunge and bought simplify3d and it's working on 115200. So, i think that's the right baud rate and this is the right answer.
Excellent..! :-)
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.148735 | 2019-08-23T14:04:14 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10853",
"authors": [
"Armand Candea",
"Benecard Services",
"Fatih namlı Dürüm",
"Greenonline",
"Jan",
"Jaspal Singh Rathour",
"Spammer",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10519",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31220",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31221",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31222",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31226",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31227",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31228",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31229",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31230",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"justin cress",
"Ленка Литвин"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
21705 | Are there any slicers that use anti-aliasing (such as FXAA) for higher quality thumbnail generation?
I use the Cura Thumbnails plugin to create and embed thumbnails in my G-code to view them using OctoPrint or my printer LCD. However, I recently found much higher quality Thumbnails that were generated using fast approximate anti-aliasing (FXAA). I was wondering if there is a way to enable or use another tool (slicer) to embed higher-quality thumbnails that were generated using anti-aliasing methods such as FXAA. For example, as generated by the tool unlimitedbacon/stl-thumb as shown below:
An example of thumbnails generated with that tool:
An example of a thumbnail generated without and with FXAA:
No need of complex antialiasing, they could simply render at 4x the size and downsample with bicubic/lanczos.
I suppose so but I suppose that would take much more unnecessary compute power compared to using hardware accelerated FXAA.
@BobOrtiz FXAA is used in GPUs that can do hundreds of frames per second in 4K. This is literally 1 frame, at something like 300x300. Even without a 3D accelerated GPU, done fully in CPU, it will take a fraction of a second, so even if the compute power is several orders of magnitude higher than FXAA, it's still several orders of magnitude below noticeable - and it can be done on devices without gfx hardware acceleration, like some Octoprint SBCs.
As of May 2023, Cura is working on it as described in this Github issue Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7447. One user suggests the use of the spatial anti-aliasing method supersampling anti-aliasing (SSAA) instead.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.149275 | 2023-11-30T09:30:55 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21705",
"authors": [
"Bob Ortiz",
"FarO",
"SF.",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2206",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2338",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/36802"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
20788 | CURA prints some primer lines, but they don't seem to respect bed automatic bed leveling
So, the G-code preppended to my slicer output (by Cura itself) looks like this:
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; Start heating up the nozzle most of the way
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed, wait until target temperature reached
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Finish heating the nozzle
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
But this code seems to be causing issues where it ignores the ABL (auto bed leveling.)
In my case, this means that the extruder starts clicking, and I suspect that with the particular hotend I have, this causes issues. For now, I have commented out all the code to draw the primer lines, as you can see.
Is there a way to make them respect auto-leveling?
You should add M420 S command after G28 to Start G-code.
According to Marlin docs, G28 command disables bed leveling by default.
G28 disables bed leveling. Follow with M420 S to turn leveling on, or use RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 to automatically keep leveling on after G28.
Alternatively, you can change the RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 value to true in firmware.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.149429 | 2023-04-06T17:38:22 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20788",
"authors": [],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
20818 | Print output missing sides
I tried to print my first object, which is the calibration cube downloaded from here, XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube.
However, the output has a visible infill on all sides:
I think this is because some settings are not correct in the slicer.
I am using:
Printer: Ender 3
Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 5.3.0
It looks like perimeters and solid layers are not set in the Slicer. Make sure that these settings are greater than zero:
That worked. Got a perfect cube. Thanks :)
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.149660 | 2023-04-12T09:05:18 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20818",
"authors": [
"Johnykutty",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37945"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
20664 | Replacing (and identification) of a broken piece of the extruder
I've an Ender 3 and a piece broke.
The part that is broken is on top of the Z stepper motor that guides the filament to the extruder.
The metal "guide wheel" that hugs the filament as its pushed through, the plate beneath it broke. I dropped a socket wrench on it. -- it's just sitting there in the photo, but it's not doing it job.
Do I have to replace the whole stepper motor or can I just get the feeder thing that sits on top of the motor?
I don't know what it's called so it's tough to search for
I might be wrong but... This looks like a generic extruder mechanism - You can find them for pennies, made from aluminium, on eBay or AliExpress. I must admit that I can't quite see which part is broken. Could you maybe annotate the photo to point out the part that is broken and add that to your post..? Or add a photo taken from another angle? Or add a photo of an unbroken Creality extruder for comparison. FWIW, here is an answer that has a photo of the parts of a generic MK8 extruder, it may help you.
Replacing the broken part
You certainly don't need to buy a whole new extruder assembly, including a stepper motor.
You could just buy a new extruder mechanism, and upgrade from the plastic1 extruder, to a metal (aluminium(?)) extruder, such as the one (apparently) sold by Creality themselves, such as this2, Metal Extruder Kit (Red):
However, if you just need a certain piece of the extruder (from your photo, I can't tell which part is broken), you could search for that, although, it would probably be cheaper just to buy the whole thing.
As to the name of the particular part that is broken, again, it is difficult to tell from the photo which part is actually broken. If you could add an annotated photo or more explicitly show the broken part, then it would be easier to provide a name of the actual part.
That said, after re-reading your question, I think that you may be referring to the whole black assembly - along with the spring, brass knurled nut, pulley/bearing, and associated bolts - that sits on the stepper motor... if so, then that is the extruder.
Identifying the parts of an extruder
It can be confusing knowing exactly what the names of the various parts of the extruder are - seeing as the entire extruder assembly (including the hotend and stepper motor) is often referred to as the extruder, either individually or as a whole.
Here are a couple of images that map out the various parts of the extruder assembly:
From the excellent RepRapWiki - Extruders
From Extruders 101: A crash course on an essential component of your 3D printer
Note that:
The hobbed bolt, is sometimes referred to as the knurled bolt or knurled nut
The idler wheel is (generally) just a bearing
Footnotes
1 As confirmed in the comments, the extruder that comes with the non-pro version of the Ender 3 is plastic.
2 I'm not recommending this seller, nor am I sure that they are genuine Creality parts... this is just an example for what you need to be looking for.
If you have access to a printer in working condition, you can even print these parts.
thank you for the advice. I will do some research on replacement extruders. I'm likely going to go to creality directly. thanks again.
RE: what broke?
the metal "guide wheel" that hugs the filament as its pushed through, the plate beneath it broke. I dropped a socket wrench on it. -- it's just sitting there in the photo, but it's not doing it job. I thought the "extruder" was the hot end.
@GlennFerrie - Not quite. While the hotend does indeed actually extrude the filament, it is generally referred to as the hotend, which make up part of the overall extruder. It's confusing, I know. I've added a couple of images to help explain what the various parts are called. However, there may be better annotated images out there.
from your image about the "bearing" broke off. I am going to order another one AND try to repair it... wish me luck
@GlennFerrie - Ah, good luck! One question, is your original extruder made of plastic, or is it already a metal of some kind? The bits that are red in my first photo... It would be interesting to know.
@Greenonline Yes. It was a plastic extruder. the one that shipped with the Ender 3 (not pro)... I was able to repair it. I remove the screw / washer / wheel then fixed the base underneath. I installed the red metal replacement but I am keeping the repaired part ... because I'm a hoarder. :-)
@GlennFerrie - excellent! :-)
Sadly this is a known-weak part on all Creality extruders of this design.
The tension arm is ABS plastic and will work fine for a few months, maybe a year and will then break around where the bearing is secured to the arm.
That equates to 5-10 kg of printing before the arm breaks. Since its a higher pressure point, gluing will not succeed.
Your best option is to buy a replacement tension arm, in Aluminium. There are many options on Aliexpess, though fit and finish can be a mixed bag. I had to swipe some bolts from my original extruder-motor mount because the new one was short.
It is telling that Creality offer a metal one and not a plastic one, but sells new printers with just plastic ones.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.149733 | 2023-03-09T04:33:35 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20664",
"authors": [
"Glenn Ferrie",
"Greenonline",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26428",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
20693 | How to make constant raster angle on Flashprint 5?
I use "Flashprint 5" as a 3D print pre-processing software. I want to have a 0-degree raster angle for all its layers (100 % infill density), in the attached object below. But what I found is that each layer always alternates to 90 degrees. Any solution for this case?
Looking at Flashprint expert mode, I don't seem to find options to change this.
Any solution for this case?
Yes there is by using a different slicer, e.g. Ultimaker Cura. In Cura you will be able to specify the directions of the infill layers as you want them to be using the Infill Line Directions printing property. Default the property is empty ([ ]), but could be changed to [90, 90] or [0, 0] (or any other arbitrary angle).
Print option is found under Infill:
Layer 60:
Layer 61:
You can take this even further in Cura by specifying directions for more than 2 layers, e.g. [-45, 0, 45, 90] will give you an alternating pattern of 4 layers.
Thanks for the answer, enlightened!
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.150120 | 2023-03-17T06:40:20 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20693",
"authors": [
"fyusufb",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37656"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
21263 | The thickness of my model is not always accurate. How do I solve this?
After replacing the nozzle on my Creatbot F430 printer, I auto-leveled the bed and initiated a test print - a simple square with a 2 mm thickness. However, I observed that the thickness of the printed model is inconsistent, varying between 1.5 mm and 1.7 mm. I'm wondering the Z-Offset is affecting this, or I shouldn't really worry about 0.3 mm / 0.5 mm difference.
Nozzle Size is 0.4 mm
Yes the Z offset needs to be redone each time a nozzle is removed even if you re install the same size.
Another thing to verify is to ensure the slicer is actually set with a 0.4mm nozzle
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.150222 | 2023-08-02T22:06:14 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21263",
"authors": [],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11388 | Are silicone socks safe?
It's fairly common for E3D to sell silicone socks for their hot ends. There are also other companies that sell these silicone socks for their hot end cartridges.
According to a brief internet search, it seems the ignition temperature of silicone is surprisingly low - around 450 °C. This surprised me because I was under the impression silicone would just burn / evaporate if it were heated up to a much higher temperature.
If my thermistor/heatrod slips off, my heatrod will glow into an orange temperature during thermal runway. This only happens briefly, but its color indicates it is reaching a temperature around 790 °C.
So, are silicone socks safe? Couldn't they ignite fairly easily?
The more pressing issue here is not whether the sock will ignite, it's why your heater is reaching 800 °C in the first place. This should almost never happen under any circumstances in normal operation, as the upper limit for printing temperature on most common materials is 280 °C. Either your thermal-runaway protection is not sufficient in any way, or you're pumping WAY too much energy into your hotend.
If your heatrod falls off it can happen! https://www.thissmarthouse.net/dont-burn-your-house-down-3d-printing-a-cautionary-tale/ If your silicone sock accidentally touches the heatrod during application - maybe? Silicone is actually about as combustible as cardboard - why would you put cardboard around your heater end
I dont understand what this article is supposed to be clearing up about, only that the fact your cartridge being capable of decoupling itself is an even larger problem.
I was just surprised. I mod my hot ends, and knowing this now, I don't feel responsible enough to trust myself with a silicone sock, personally. And it's not just me - a bad thermistor from the manufacturer or basic slip-up could cause this.
You are linking to a printer that had no Thermal Runaway Protection enabled. It seems that your printer doesn't either, please fix that first!
note that your Incandescence chart is technically the iron one, the one for aluminum is a little different (by a margin of some hundred degrees). Note that Aluminium (which your heater block is made of) melts at 660 °C, so your most worrying item should be the block, which will melt, drip and melt anything below if this goes on for a couple seconds like seen here
Just as a by-the-way: there are heat resistant silicones that will burn very slowly and retard fires even if you cross into the high temperatures. Here is an example (Disclaimer, I have worked for the company who made this ad) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xcxDTNbzho
While it is good fire safety practice to keep around as few inflammable material as possible, don't forget that the usual filaments are flammable, too. Ultimater lists an ignition temp for their PLA of 388 °C and thermal decomposition from 250 °C (https://ultimaker.com/download/74613/UM180816%20SDS%20PLA%20RB%20V11.pdf)
Today I learned that "sock" can refer to other stuff than just footwear. Also, congratulations for reaching the Hot Network Questions!
Neither your thermistor nor your heater cartridge should ever be capable of becoming loose from your hotend, let alone the fact it's capable of reaching 800 °C before your printer even notices (This is a massive issue in itself!!!)
Silicone socks are safe, unless you're printing materials with extremely high melting points, which is usually never.
If you're concerned it's going to autoignite mid-print, you have much bigger issues surrounding your hotend than a silicone sock.
@steveantwan it's not opinion based but PLEASE replace your firmware for one with TRP.
Silicone socks are safe to use, provided your printer is safely operating and you are using the silicone socks in their operating temperature range.
Your current setup is NOT SAFE!
When the heater element falls out of the heater block (that should not happen in the first place, please secure it correctly) and heats up to about 800 °C this means that the printer has no active Thermal Runaway Protection (TRP) enabled. Basically, when the thermistor doesn't measure a temperature rise while the voltage to the heater element is being scheduled, the firmware should shut down the voltage to the heater element. When this fails, the heater element can reach dangerously high temperatures to start burning anything that can catch a flame on touch. In deliberate tests, heaters have been able to melt the aluminium of the hotend:
You should be worried at this point as you see from the link you provided what happens if the heater is not shut off when the heater element is disconnected from the heater block:
Please fix your printer ASAP by uploading a proper firmware with enabled TRP protection before proceeding to print anything or at least don't let it print without supervision and proper smoke/fire detection devices.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.150314 | 2019-11-19T03:50:07 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11388",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"BjornGrylls",
"Canis Lupus",
"Designated Local Expert spam",
"Eclectic Production",
"Jaime Frias",
"John Dvorak",
"Jonathan Gyger",
"K Mmmm",
"Marco Bergantin",
"Metinkaan Kulga",
"Sallay La",
"Shaniya Joyner",
"Spammer McSpamface",
"Stian",
"The Mike Hostilo Law Firm",
"Trish",
"cbeleites",
"craftxbox",
"desperrrr",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18598",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19188",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2205",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33293",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33294",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33296",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33298",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33305",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33306",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33310",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33314",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33315",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33317",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33318",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33319",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33323",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33333",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33397",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/39304",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/39989",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6996",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"jezmck",
"mopx",
"steve",
"พุทธิพงษ์ หลาบช่วย"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
10206 | Display locks when executing G-code for laser cutting using Marlin on RAMPS board
I'm working on a Laser cutter. I’m using the RAMPS 1.4 and Marlin software. To make the Marlin software work with a laser I’m inspired by this blog from dreammakercnc: Marlin Firmware modification for Laser Control
My plan is to use Inkscape to design and create the G-code. With Pronterface I will sent it to the laser cutter. My plan is to get the Marlin software to work like in this video:
.
After that I will order the laser cutting machine.
For now I have the following issue:
I'm using stepper motors. They are working when I connect to Pronterface. I can control the motors when I'm using Pronterface. But when I load a G-code file, that I designed with Inkscape, the program seems to freeze. Nothing happens. It's saying:
locking interface.
When I unlock it and sent a manual G-code it's not working. The program thinks its working at that moment. The picture that I designed is visualized in the G-code viewer of Pronterface.
I haven't connected any extruders, fan or bed to the RAMPS 1.4. I have connected one thermistor and one endstop. Both are working well. When I upload the Marlin software there are no problems.
My thoughts:
Is my problem that the program is waiting for the extruder to get warm?
Is there something wrong with the G-code I’am sending to the RAMPS board?
Below I will put the info from Pronterface when I connect, the G-code that I'm using and the configuration.h file from the Marlin software.
Pronterface connecting
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo: External Reset
Marlin 1.0.2+
echo: Last Updated: Jun 6 2019 22:04:53 | Author: (Bart,24-1-2019)
Compiled: Jun 6 2019
echo: Free Memory: 5248 PlannerBufferBytes: 1360
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z533.33 E836.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
echo: M204 S3000.00 T3000.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
G-code
Loading file: D:\output_0001.gcode
Loaded D:\output_0001.gcode, 27 lines
0.00mm of filament used in this print
The print goes:
- from 0.00 mm to 36.62 mm in X and is 36.62 mm wide
- from 0.00 mm to 49.24 mm in Y and is 49.24 mm deep
- from 0.00 mm to 0.00 mm in Z and is 0.00 mm high
Estimated duration: 0 layers, 0:03:09
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.150748 | 2019-06-08T18:04:12 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10206",
"authors": [
"Abstract Art",
"Gareth ",
"Malik Lomax",
"Sean Thomas Duff",
"Spammer",
"günstige Fahrstunden spam",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28866",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28867",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28868",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28873",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28890",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28891",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28892",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38729",
"rida calila"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14976 | Fusion 360 Design Best Practices Question (Am I on the right track?)
So I've designed a few components in Fusion 360, but I'm kinda new to CAD. I did the tutorials AutoDesk have on YouTube, modelled an Arduino enclosure, a shampoo bottle, a lamp shade, etc. but what I'm doing now isn't as straightforward...
Before I used to create solids, but what I'm doing right now is essentially a flimsy plastic part, just a sheet of plastic with a rim, and some other "rib" features, and doing solids you have to make a sketch, and every line has to be doubled because of the thickness of the material.
Today I'm trying surfaces after being clued by the "Thicken" command, I figured maybe that was more efficient, but I'm not sure if I'm on the right track.
When I work with solids, I end-up with the option to join whatever new feature to the main body, but with surfaces I end-up with a bunch of bodies that are essentially supposed to be one, and I don't know how to join them together after.
I guess they could be put together in a "component", but I think components are more like a nut is a solid, a bolt is a solid, and a component is a nut and a bolt, not a bolt head, and a threaded cylinder... So the way the software is made right now at this point, while it clued me to use surfaces, now it's cluing me that there's something I'm missing, or nor doing right...
There's no CAD Stack Exchange site, and I realize this might be a bit specific, but the part is to be 3D printed, I bought a new 3D printer not long ago for a project, but I need to get better at CAD before I can make it...
Attached is a screenshot of what I worked on, it's paths that I've extruded to create surfaces (tall edges), thickened those surfaces to create bodies, patched some surfaces to fill areas, thickened those as well (ended-up with stair-shaped corners that I fixed somehow), then I cut some bodies from the bodies below to end-up with that you see now...
I think I'm on the right path with surfaces, but I don't think my workflow is right, and I was wondering if anyone could help me...
Right now, there's supposed to be two screw wells in two corners of the circle, essentially wells with a hole in the bottom for a thumbtack to go through, and there's going to be a cap to cap it off, it's kind of the same process as what I've done so far, but like I said, I don't think I'm doing it right...
(source: 000webhostapp.com)
The question is very vague, I don't understand why you are talking about thickening surfaces, just draw a sketch and pull the component from the sketch surfaces, this should take about 2 minutes to draw this way (you might need an extra sketch to cut out the round parts). Do you imply that you need screw holes? Just subtract/cot out the holes and put threads on the cut-out surface. We are aware that there is no CAD or Fusion360 SE so some questions are allowed here. Note there is a Blender SE.
It sounds like you are on the right path. But as with most skills, experience is the best teacher. The more you work at it and the more mistakes you make, the more you will grow. Even if what you try isn't what you intend, you will learn something new that can be used later. Keep at it!
@agarza : I totally agree with you there, and I can entirely relate, but I'm bothering asking because I'm afraid to learn something that's either useless, or the wrong way, and sometimes I learn things on my own that are hard to un-learn afterwards because I built-up speed the wrong way, and it's hard to go back. I just thought maybe someone might help me make some sense of things, I guess... Or maybe even just narrow down what my difficulty is enough throigh discussing it so that I can look up tutorials, or videos or something after... But I agree, you need some experience to learn well.
Nothing you learn is useless! Even mistakes are part of the learning experience!
Ok, let's go down the main two ways to a part, and in practice you usually use both to design for 3D printing. Only for machining, you try to keep to the cutting method only.
Cutting Method
Building Method
Cutting Method
You start with a piece of "stock". A cube or cylinder created by extruding the simple shape. Now you go and create profiles that you either extrude into the part or rotate around the axis - your profile "cuts" the "stock". When doing this, you think of parts like a machinist: you remove the material as a mill or lathe would.
Buildup Method
You start with the profile of the piece, then extrude it, then add the next detail and so on. I work a lot with that, and you can have a lot of sketches in the end:
What I was doing before was mostly build-up, but because the part I'm working on now is very thin - it's a mounting bracket - so just pockets, and thin walls, I remembered the "thicken" command that works on surfaces (rather than solids). With solids and thin parts you get sketch lines that are very close to each other, and it's kinda hard to work with at times; I thoight working with surfaces might be the right way because of that "thicken" feature that seems to be made to make thin walls from 2D surfaces. It's something that would get injection molded, it's like making the inverse of molds.
After @Trish posted their answer, I went back to my design, and used substractive design, because I watch a lot of machining videos, and instead of the "thicken" feature that kinda did what I wanted, I used the "shell" command that did exactly what I wanted, see below.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.150966 | 2020-12-08T08:12:08 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14976",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Forrest Imig-Roberts",
"Home Equity Release",
"Myron Pensyl",
"PearsonArtPhoto",
"Steve Jones",
"Thierry Kurt",
"agarza",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23193",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23490",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44190",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44191",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44192",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44209",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44253",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44262",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"poorandunlucky"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
3537 | Can I design or remix a model in SketchUp Make and legally share it via Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory or similar?
SketchUp Make is licensed for non-commercial work only. This includes the output from the software.
Trimble Navigation Limited and/or its affiliates ("Trimble") gives you
a personal, worldwide, royalty-free, non-assignable and non-exclusive
license to use the executable version of the Software for
non-commercial use only. Non-commercial use means: you may not sell,
rent, lease or lend the output of the Software or the Services.
The above retrieved 2016-02-07. The full SketchUp Make license can be found on the SketchUp website.
In what ways does this restrict my use of SketchUp Make generated material with sites that allow the sharing of models (and deisgn files)? This would include sites such as Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory and 3D Warehouse.
For example, must I always set a non-commercial license for my designs?
Thingiverse allows several different license choices to be selected.
Can I permit the design to be printed by someone for money?
Thingiverse has links to 3D HUBS and Print a Thing which can be disabled per model.
Obviously the SketchUp Pro license makes many of the restrictions on what can be done with the output go away, which would be much simpler. However I do not expect to generate anywhere near the costs of purchasing a license ($695 US at the time of writing) by tweaking a few designs now and then.
I want to comply with the licenses but I need to understand the limits of what I am permitted to do with SketchUp Make in order to do that. It may be much more prudent for me to invest my time in learning other tools that have no restrictions on what can be done with the output.
As this is a legal question it might matter what jurisdiction I am in and what jurisdiction the sites I may share to are in. I am based in the UK. Thingiverse is based in the State of New York. MyMiniFactory uses the Laws of England as a base. 3D Warehouse selects the State of California.
I have asked the same question on the SketchUp Community Forum https://forums.sketchup.com/t/can-i-design-or-remix-a-model-in-sketchup-make-and-legally-share-it-via-thingiverse-myminifactory-or-similar/38627?u=tafthorne If any definitive answers turn up on either site I will try to cross post them.
Maybe I should be asking this question on Law rather than 3D printing? Some aspects of this are context specific though.
Ask on Law, and refer them here for a perspective from printers. Law should provide a more accurate reading of any formal aspects of the language.
As @SeanHoulihane suggested I have now raised the same question on Law http://law.stackexchange.com/q/17013/10851
Please do not cross-post questions. I would suggest deleting your question on SE.Legal as it hasn't got an answers.
@SeanHoulihane - I know that this is a bit old, but when advising users to post on another site, please remind them to delete the original post in order to avoid cross posting. In this case, it seems a bit late to delete this post as it has two answers, whereas the cross posted Q on SE.Legal has none. I've flagged the Q on SE.Legal for deletion.
Again, I'm not a specialist in intellectual property law (or any other sort of lawyer), but I have a different interpretation.
There is a potential difference between the use of the product, and the use of the derivatives of the product. For example, GCC has a restrictive (open) license, but its OK (in some contexts) to use the compiled code in a commercial product.
Generally, you (as creator of a work) will own all of the rights to a work. The supplier of the tools you use does not usually gain any rights to the resulting work.
So long as you don't gain from your use of the tool, it is probably OK for other people to profit from the use. Sharing with non-commercial should be your safest option if you're worried - but be aware that this doesn't prevent people from taking your design to a print service indirectly.
Their license says:
Non-commercial use means that you may not sell, rent, or lease the
output of the Software
This implies that they are not making any claims to restrict how other non-connected persons might use your works. Its specifically talking about use as part of employment, or you making a gain.
I would also note that to me the language in the license does not look to have been drafted with a clear understanding of intent on this issue.
This doesn't have anything to do with transfer of rights of the works. If they say "you can't distribute what you make with our app" then distributing what you make with their app is a violation of the license and you would be liable for damages - even though they do not have any rights to your work.
@TomvanderZanden Agreed, but I don't see a no-giveaway clause in the license.
@SeanHoulihane I am never that sure if 'sell' does not include the idea of 'sell for £0.00'. It is still a permanent transfer of a good, rather that a temporary one which would be covered by rent or lease.
So unlike Carl Witthoft's answer below @SeanHoulihane believes that I do not have to apply a non-commercial license to my output. All I must do is refrain from selling the output or possibly agreeing to print one of my works as a service for which I receive an income or gain. I am glad it is not just me that sees multiple readings here.
IANAL, naturally, so take this with that in mind.
From what I've read and been instructed, any software which is licenced as non-commercial cannot be redistributed or incorporated into any commercial software product. The other thing about "noncommercial" software licenses is that they can't be used for corporate design work -- as opposed to home user hacking.
Now, all you need to do is ensure that the license restrictions remain with the mixup files you post. There is no doubt that, so long as you do that, you are free from any legal problems that a downstream vendor may incur upon trying to sell the hardware produced.
So your interpretation would be that I am OK to share the works as long as they carry a 'non-commercial share alike' style of license or more ideally refer back to the SketchUp Make license.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.151385 | 2017-02-06T12:37:38 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3537",
"authors": [
"Can Özkan",
"Cooper Alatorre",
"Greenonline",
"JeanMi",
"JeeVan TiWari",
"Jeremy",
"Joe Blow",
"KimKulling",
"Kysmo",
"Sean Houlihane",
"TafT",
"Tom van der Zanden",
"buhtz",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4437",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7892",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7893",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7894",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7903",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7907",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7908",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7918",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7925",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7926",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7927",
"user8377292"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
19411 | Cura variables and initial G-code commands
Ender 3 Pro, PLA, temps 200 °C and 60 °C.
I want to not heat the nozzle until after Auto Bed Leveling (CR Touch) is complete. I can do that in the start G-code, but by then, Cura has already heated the nozzle to the temp specified under material and filament starts oozing out during bed leveling. I'd rather set a variable to that value and call it with M104 when I'm ready.
This is the start of Cura's g-code:
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:2888
;Filament used: 1.96332m
;Layer height: 0.2
;MINX:93.266
;MINY:10.195
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:126.734
;MAXY:210.658
;MAXZ:4.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.13.1
M140 S60
M105
M190 S60
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto Bed Level (CR Touch)
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
...
The lines right after "Generated with Cura_SteamEngine" are the ones I'd like to change but I can't find them in the Cura app. I know that 60 °C and 200 °C are the temps defined for bed and nozzle. Cura inserts them as constants for the M140 and M104 commands. I'd like Cura to set variables to those values (like {bed_temp} = 60) so I can refer to that variable when I insert the M140 command in my Custom Start G-code. Can that be done?
A related question was asked a few years ago and part of the start code example then was:
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
The variable {material_bed_temperature_layer_0} was already set but I don't know where or how that was done.
I've sorted this out. IF I include my own heating commands in my start G-Code, Cura knows to NOT add its own heating commands at the start of the G-Code file.
The variables I was referring to have dedicated names.
material_print_temperature_layer_0 is the printing (extruder/nozzle) temp set under Material in Cura.
material_bed_temperature_layer_0 is the build plate temp set under Material in Cura.
Cura substitutes the values of those variables for the variable names in the G-code file.
So to avoid filament ooze during auto bed leveling, I set the nozzle temp to 150 °C (hot, but lower than the defined printing temp and low enough to avoid ooze). I set the bed temp to its defined temp.
Then I auto-level the bed.
Then I heat the nozzle up to its defined printing temp and start the print job.
This is my Start G-code:
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M104 S150 ; Set Extruder temperature for bed leveling
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M109 S150 ; Wait for Extruder temperature for bed leveling
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
G29 ; Auto Bed Level (CR Touch)
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
And this is how Cura writes the G-code file:
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:2888
;Filament used: 1.96332m
;Layer height: 0.2
;MINX:93.266
;MINY:10.195
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:126.734
;MAXY:210.658
;MAXZ:4.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.13.1
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M104 S150 ; Set Extruder temperature for bed leveling
M140 S60 ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M109 S150 ; Wait for Extruder temperature for bed leveling
M190 S60 ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
G29 ; Auto Bed Level (CR Touch)
M104 S200 ; Set Extruder temperature
M109 S200 ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
G92 E0
...
I hope this helps someone with a similar question.
Cheers.
Go to the Settings -> Printers menu from the top menu,
select your active printer (or Activate it) and manage your printer trough Machine Settings.
It will open the printer settings,
there you are able to change the lines you want in the Start G-code section.
Note the default Start G-code doesn't include heating up the bed and core, you need to add these after the G29 in your case. Personally I use heat up bed and continue (M140), than heat up core and wait till temperature is reached (M109), then heat up and wait until bed temperature is reached (M190).
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.152018 | 2022-05-21T16:21:34 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19411",
"authors": [],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
12236 | Will the TMC2130 V3.0 stepper driver work with the Ramps 1.6 Plus board?
I want to buy the board Ramps 1.6 Plus. The description in the link says that is compatible with the driver TMC2130, but I found that there are two versions soldered in SPI mode.
BIGTREETECH TMC2130 V3.0. Where the diagnosis pins are soldered as well
TMC2130 V?. In this other product those pins are not soldered and I believe it will fit in the board
As you can see in the image other boards like the SKR 1.3 have some socket to plug in the diagnosis pins. But I don't see something similar in the Ramps 1.6, which has male pins instead.
Should I remove those pins in order to plug the driver? Or is there a better way to proceed?
I don't really know what the diagnosis pins do, are they really necessary? Should I buy the second option without those pins soldered to avoid problems?
Well I found that I can use a DuPont cable to connect the diag1 pin to the right endstop
There is also a beta functionality in the Marlin firmware I haven't tried: Just uncommenting SPI_ENDSTOPS definition
* SPI_ENDSTOPS *** Beta feature! *** TMC2130 Only ***
* Poll the driver through SPI to determine load when homing.
* Removes the need for a wire from DIAG1 to an endstop pin.
*
* IMPROVE_HOMING_RELIABILITY tunes acceleration and jerk when
* homing and adds a guard period for endstop triggering.
*/
#define SENSORLESS_HOMING // StallGuard capable drivers only
#if EITHER(SENSORLESS_HOMING, SENSORLESS_PROBING)
// TMC2209: 0...255. TMC2130: -64...63
#define X_STALL_SENSITIVITY 8
#define X2_STALL_SENSITIVITY X_STALL_SENSITIVITY
#define Y_STALL_SENSITIVITY 8
//#define Z_STALL_SENSITIVITY 8
//#define SPI_ENDSTOPS // TMC2130 only
//#define IMPROVE_HOMING_RELIABILITY
#endif
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.152300 | 2020-03-24T11:36:54 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12236",
"authors": [
"Alexey Lysenko",
"Chameleon",
"DukeBrymin",
"Joris Vandael",
"Kongras Roy",
"afilmforthefuture",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/36339",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/36340",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/36341",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/36343",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/36344",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37757",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49886",
"pouya Ghanizadeh"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
10888 | Export STL as ASCII or binary?
When go to export a model using Fusion 360 or Meshmixer, I see that there are two options. Could the final model be affected by the format chosen at the time of saving?
The two formats contain the same information about the model, but the binary format is much more compact, so it will produce smaller files from the same part but they should work the same. That's to say, if you take the exact same model, save it as a binary STL and as an ASCII STL, the binary STL file will take up fewer bytes on disk. The number of triangles and the dimensions of the printed model will stay the same.
There are a couple of important exceptions here:
I don't know about Meshmixer specifically, but some tools will have completely different code paths for exporting the two formats. One exporter may have a bug that the other exporter doesn't. The same is true of the slicer, which may have a bug reading one of the two kinds of STL but not the other. In this case, it'll make a huge difference which one you use, but you'll only find out when one goes wrong. This is what fred_dot_u experienced in his answer.
Some tools have a way of putting colour information into the binary STL format, which isn't possible with the ASCII format. If your model has coloured triangles, you might find that the binary STL preserves the colours, while the ASCII STL loses the colours. Whether this matters to you depends on what printing technology you'll be using. Most slicers can't use these colours anyway - and subsequently, ignore color information on import.
The ASCII STL format is older than the binary format, so you may find some very old software can only understand the ASCII STL files, but unless you're working with such old software, it's usually better to use the binary format. Smaller files don't just save disk space: they're also faster to process and transfer via e-mail or on servers.
Thanks, fusion 360 have two options, i don't knew that, but when you told more smaller, all model should be or just the polygons create the shape
@PedroMiguelPimientaMorales I've added a sentence to the first paragraph, to make that more clear. Does that answer your question?
Yes your answer, but like all this thing 3d printer is, i go to make some testing with diferents files and model and practice and ser what is the result
You should always pick the binary option. ASCII files are larger and slower to save and load. There's no reason to ever use ASCII unless you are using software that is incompatible with binary files.
Could the final model be affected by the format chosen at the time of saving?
In practice, the model will not be affected by either choice. There are some subtle differences between the two formats, such as binary being able to store an attribute per triangle (which is sometimes used to represent colour), ASCII being able to store a "name" for the solid in a file while binary can store an 80-byte header containing metadata, binary being limited to 32 bits of precision while ASCII theoretically has the option to use arbitrary precision. However, for 99.9% of all use cases there is no difference, so it is preferable to use binary for its smaller file size.
ASCII is also going to be subject to differences in decimal conversions in the process producing the file and the process consuming it. The binary format uses IEEE single precision which has a fixed interpretation.
I have experienced problems on occasion when using a binary exported Meshmixer model. The slicers used have been Simplify3D and Prusa Slicer 2.0 and possibly an earlier version. I've not attempted to resolve the problem other than to change that specific model to export to ASCII which then solves the problem. ASCII files will be larger but that's not a significant factor, in my opinion.
If you are using a program which fails to properly process a binary export, it's simple enough to overwrite the model in ASCII form.
Thanks for you quick answer, ASSCII format is used for bigger model, an you recommended avoid binary format if the softwae have the ASSCII option?
I'm suggesting that either one will work, unless you discover a problem with binary format. At that point, switching to ASCII should remove the problem. The model size is not the consideration, it's that an ASCII file contains more information than the equivalent model in binary format.
This has been my experience with Cura as well - I've had a couple of binary stls that won't load in the slicer while the same model saved as an ASCII stl will.
The other answers on this thread seem kind of hand-wavy, so I'll give my input.
At its simplest, all we're dealing with here is two different formats of encoding the same data. The 3D file is identical, just described by the file data in different terms.
That being said, there is a multitude of different reasons that 3D prints can fail. Fusion 360 is notorious for having issues with slicers because of fillets, lofts, smooth-curvy type patterns, or intersecting planes.
Binary is a smaller encoding. It almost always works for me. ASCII has never failed me as a backup when binary did.
Thank for you experiences un this answer, i Will go to traje your words and put in practice
There is extra data (header, number of facets, facet attributes) in the binary files that the ASCII format does not have http://www.fabbers.com/tech/STL_Format If some files are using the extra features of the binary format, the programs might interpret those features inconsistently.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.152471 | 2019-08-28T19:18:51 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10888",
"authors": [
"Chris Holdread",
"Craig Richards",
"Dan Hulme",
"Dave X",
"Glenn",
"Kaden 12459",
"Kevin Canterbury Arizona",
"LarsWA",
"Ndiasse Fall",
"Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"Robert G.",
"Rodolfo Coutinho",
"Spammer",
"Spammer McSpamface",
"Ty Hayes",
"fred_dot_u",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12715",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12718",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13100",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31339",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31340",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31341",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31343",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31344",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31345",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31370",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31371",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31373",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31374",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35288",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47714",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47720",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"rickenbacher"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14059 | Updating an Ender 3 V2
I recently got an Ender 3 V2 and when I go to Info -> Version it says V1.0.0. However online, there is V1.0.1 available.
How can I update the Ender 3 V2. It is different as it isn't a ATMEL chip like the ATMEGA 2560 but rather an ARM processor. I own many arduino boards but apparently the chip has the bootloader already on it.
So how can I update the board, through some uploader, specific software or what exactly.
Just copy the firmware to a blank microsd card.
Turn off the printer and turn it on.
Board will flash it automatically and wait the screen to up.
Make sure the name of the firmware file always unique or different from the last one, otherwise you will get the blank screen.
If you do, just re-flash by using a rename (different) file of firmware.
thank you very much, CHEP on youtube just made a video about it showing your method. Putting it on a micro SD card should work the next time I need to update and it so much easier than plugging it in
After looking around for a bit in Cura. You can update it via Cura.
Start by going to your printer -> Manage printer
Then there is the option to update firmware. You must plug the printer in first.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.152921 | 2020-07-11T08:37:06 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14059",
"authors": [
"Anh Huynh",
"C Hein",
"Changyu Meng",
"ConvergingPanda",
"Dark Angel",
"Dian Oky Dian",
"Miguel Luna",
"PÂMELA LANA",
"Spammer",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21851",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40655",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40656",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40657",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40658",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40659",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40660",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40661",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40785",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40998",
"simondvt"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14087 | How does wireless 3D printing work?
I was wondering how WiFi based 3D Printing works since I want to start an open source project and need some information on this. I have done some research, I have now an understanding on how the printer interprets the G-code and how it acts upon the instructions. But what I couldn't find information on is how WiFi based 3D printing works
What is the communication between the slicer (such as Cura) and the board?
How are the commands sent to the printer from the slicer, line by line or the entire G-code?
How do I establish a connection between the slicer and the board?
I am well aware of the already existent Raspberry Pi idea compatible with Octoprint but I am making a much cheaper one
Thanks for any help
Slicers don't talk to the printer. Slicers analyze an STL file and generate a GCODE file, based on your parameters. A print manager sends the commands from the GCODE file to the printer board, which executes them sequentially.
They are not. Commands are sent to the printer from a print manager of some sort. This varies among printers; some printers can be managed by more than one manager, and some managers can handle many models of printer. Some printer-manager pairs are proprietary and exclusive.
You do not. See above.
Note, some programs do have an integrated slicer and print manager. - Thanks, Trish
" A print manager sends the commands from the GCODE file to the printer board, which executes them sequentially." - does this mean that the printer receives an entire G-code file and then executes them, or the print manager send 1 line of commands
It depends on how much (if any) buffer or storage the controller board has. It can be a small number of lines at a time, or it's possible the entire file can be queued up on the controller. The units I use have a 300 line command buffer, plus an emergency buffer.
You shouldn't send G-code over WiFi, this is potentially more risky than a stable wire connection.
@0scar: Do you just mean you shouldn't stream it because of risk of the printer being left in a bad state (e.g. hot nozzle sitting on the print) if the signal drops out? Or something else?
Some slicers do contain a printer manager, but generally, they do not.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.153071 | 2020-07-15T18:48:28 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14087",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Assignment Samples",
"Centraire Heating",
"ConvergingPanda",
"Dalton C P Pessoa",
"Davo",
"Erich Schreiner",
"Lashina Conner",
"Lux",
"Masked MAD",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"Trish",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21851",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40814",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40815",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40816",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40817",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40819",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40820",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40821",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/41199",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"kthibault77"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
13548 | BigTreeTech mini e3 V1.2 endstop installation
I recently purchased a BigTreeTech mini e3 V1.2 controller for my custom built 3D printer (as opposed to an pre-purchased ender 3). In doing so, I ran into the problem that the endstops I have been using have three wires: Power, Ground, and signal. The mini e3 V1.2 that I purchased uses endstop connections that only have two pins. This can be seen in the schematic below on the bottom right of the controller. I don't know where to buy endstops that only have two pins and have not been able to find anything online. If anybody knows where these can be bought or how the 3 pinned endstops are supposed to be wired up it would be much appreciated.
You do not need to connect the red (+) wire of the endstops. The controller board uses a technique to ensure the signal is 3.3 V or ground, see the top left schematics of this link (will insert an image later!). Specifics about this technology is found here and is explained as using a pull up resistor.
What happens is that the signal is always reported as triggered, unless the endstop connects the signal wire to ground.
This link shows that only ground and signal are required (will insert an image later!).
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.153284 | 2020-04-28T19:37:49 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13548",
"authors": [
"Agha Hussain",
"HansStrupat",
"Heredia",
"Spammer",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38426",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38427",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38428",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38446",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38447",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38448",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49874",
"mary",
"spammer",
"user390868"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
13519 | How to access BIGTREETECH firmware
I recently purchased a BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V1.2 and need to adjust some of the settings in configuration h to accommodate for my custom built 3d printer. In the past I've used the RAMPS 1.4 board and adjusted the firmware in the arduino IDE. What is the best way/recommended way to do this for the mini E3 V1.2.
Thanks.
Basics
Firmware can be distributed in 2 ways:
As a compiled file (for example as .hex).
As an uncompiled repository (as in a preconfigured marlin distribution) that needs to be compiled at the users' side.
compiled file
Compiled files can't be altered easily. The only way to change settings after installation is to send the correct commands via a console to alter the settings in the SRAM then save the new settings into the EEPROM via M500 from the M50X family of commands - and hoping that EEPROM was activated in the firmware to begin with.
uncompiled distribution
To alter an uncompiled Repository, you can follow the basic path in Updating Marlin Firmware - Step by Step Guide
The previous answer is good, but here's one specific for Bigtreetech.
Install platform.io. I use the command-line interface (CLI)
Modify your marlin files. You can clone existiing firmware for your board from the BigtreeTech Github for your board.
Remove microUSB card from your Bigtree tech board
Plug microUSB card into microUSB reader, and the microusb reader into the computer. You should be able to read your microUSB card
Enter the command in the root directory of your Marlin files: platformio run -e STM32F103RC_bigtree_USB. At least, this is the one for my board. You should have to run this in one folder before the Marlin folder.
It creates a file called firmware.bin in the directory .pio/build/STM32F103RC_bigtree_USB/firmware.bin. Copy it to your microUSB card, replacing and deleting any existing .bin. You can use the name firmware.bin.
Remove microSD card from computer and plug into board.
In your Marlin Configuration.h file, there should be a variable called something like MACHINE_NAME. If you make that name custom, then it will appear in the Octoprint terminal when connecting to your board, letting you know that you have updated the firmware.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.153405 | 2020-04-25T02:07:41 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13519",
"authors": [
"Danny",
"Dragoon",
"Gilles",
"M.P.R.Methi Yaowala",
"Rob",
"The Mike Hostilo Law Firm",
"floppydisk",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38326",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38327",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38328",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38330",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38335",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38339",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38340",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40007",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49872",
"krose",
"lu hongxin"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
13640 | Prevent raising Z-axis after homing
I've recently configured my Bigtreetech mini e3 v1.2, and I have every aspect of the printer running well except for the initialized homing sequence (the problem is sometimes small enough to where I can still get a good print). Originally what I was running into was that because I used two Z stepper motors, any movement that wasn't manual input on Pronterface would cause the motors to vibrate and make noise (not enough current). Now the only time the Z motors make noise/vibrate is right after the homing is complete and they briefly move up when the nozzle begins to heat, as well as right after the heating is done and the nozzle dips down to begin the print. I suspect it's because of a fast increase in Z speed that I don't necessary need. I've tried changing a multitude of settings in Configuration.h but haven't had any luck. Does anybody know the command that dictates the Z motors to very quickly move upward just after homing and before heating?
Just solved my own problem. Instead of looking in Marlin for the command, I found out the reason it was lifting up quickly was because of a custom command embedded in the G-code by the slicer. I got rid of the command and the problem was solved.
Maybe you could add some detail on the actual G-code command and the reason it got inserted by the slicer, that may help others facing similar issues!
I think I'm having the same issue any detail on the exact G-code would be helpful.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.153718 | 2020-05-10T22:10:37 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13640",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Dea",
"Erni Suryani",
"Francisco Corona Baca",
"Junior Jam",
"JustAG33K",
"Ooi kokweng",
"Salmaan Saed",
"Spammer",
"Wez",
"Will You Marry Me Hilton Head",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23290",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38780",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38781",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38782",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38784",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38785",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38787",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38793",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38794",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38795",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49888",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"yahz muks"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15256 | BLTouch not touching bed while leveling
I have an Ender 3 Pro that I installed a BLTouch sensor on. After I auto-home, I level bed and it deploys the probe in the right spot, but doesn't go down far enough, then goes back up and stops leveling.
I am using the wiring for BLTouch for Z homing on SKR mini E3 v1.2. I am using Marlin Bugfix-2.0 with BLTouch and a few other things enabled.
Configuration Files
Video of Problem
I think I fixed everything. What I did is I used this guide <youtu.be/y_1Kg45APko> which was a guide by makes'n'breaks on setting the probe z-offset using pronterface and then reverted to the original firmware that was on this page<github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/…> Which was the marlin firmware for bltouch for z homing for my mainboard.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.153886 | 2021-01-08T22:44:57 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15256",
"authors": [
"Dorival Maggioni Finotto",
"Exterior Cladding Contractors",
"Gaurav Kumar",
"Heras Fencing LTD",
"Matmwt God",
"Spammer",
"clive jones",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45219",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45220",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45221",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45223",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45224",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45225",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45376",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49891",
"kris"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14898 | I can't figure out how to name this problem or solve it
(Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board and Touchscreen, BlTouch)
Hello everybody,
I want to print something for my family but the hotend gets clogged every time in the same part of the print. I tried:
Different Nozzles
Different Filaments
I cleaned every Part
The E-Steps are set right
The retraction Setting didn't make a difference
The Extruder Position is perfect
I tried different speeds
Everything else you find on Google with a clogged hot end.
The most odd thing about this is that the problem occurs at the same place every time.
On Flat surfaces are some anomalies, that wasn't there when I had the normal clogged nozzle problems (from: retraction settings, dirty Printer, e-steps false). I think it has something to do with the anomalies.
Another thing I don't get behind are missing layers after the layer change,
even when I don't use retraction at all.
In The Picture from the side you see the Support with the Layer change problem.
After around about Layer 40 there is one Layer missing and the next Layers are not connected anymore.
From the top you see the Surface anomaly I don't know how to describe.
It would be helpful to know what I did wrong. I am sure I did Everything against a clogged Nozzel but I can be Wrong so tips in this direction are Helpful too.
I am quite new to 3D Printing(2 Months) I had the usual clogged Nozzel Problem Solved and It Worked Perfectly. I Tried to Fix It with the same Solutions and Nothing Helped, so I think it is a different problem.
Sry for my bad English I am from Germany.
I have an Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board, Touchscreen and BlTouch which I use together with [insert slicer here]. I print in [PLA/ABS/PETG/Whatever Material] at [Extruder temperature] °C. The print bed is set to [Bed Temperature] °C. I use a print cooling fan at [whatever] %. The layer height I set to 0.[x] mm, the line width [line width/extrusion width] from the 0.[x] mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to [x] mm/s for walls and [x] mm/s for infill. My retraction is [off / [X] mm at [x] mm/s].
that loooks like terrible layer adhesion, possibly caused by underextrusion or wrong temperature
I gonne test with a new Temp and adjust the E Steps again
So the printer stopped extruding entirely after this kind of under-extrusion?If it is then it looks like a heatcreep to me.Happened on my ender3pro before.
Ill look it Up today
Conclusion
So I found my mistake: It was the E-Steps I did wrong it over extruded. The best E-Steps per mm are 92 for me. The mistake took place because I took my E-step number from a Video Tutorial about my dual extruder. I found the optimal number by testing out; the formula I got for the E-Steps was in the Video and I think I used it wrong, I'll watch the Video again and look at what I did wrong and I'll write a comment about it. I will test more today to get it perfect but @Trish was right.
Thank you to everybody for their Time.
How the problem was diagnosed:
Did I have a bad Temperature?
First, I tested all temperatures in the range of 190 to 210 °C, and the best looking is 200-205 °C. After that, I tried a different height for my print head which just resulted in the model not sticking to the bed. So I could rule out bad layer height.
This was made at 200 °C, The problematic areas are at the corners and on Flat Surfaces parallel to the heat bed:
Is the Cura profile the culprit?
I made a new printer Profile to find out if I broke it in the settings. I got the same results.
So I tried every Setting in Cura that could have something to do with that, the only thing that helped a little was using 50% Top Surface Flow:
While testing, I saw that the corners are really bad. I think it's because of the print head acceleration. So, I went back and tuned more...
E-Step Configuration Issue Identified:
Finally, I revisited the video I saw originally and figured out, it might be the E-steps per mm. I went through trial and error to come to 92 and realized, I had mistakenly inserted a number for a different extruder setup.
I'm an Ender 3 Pro user and I've been through almost every problem this machine has.
If you are on original hotend and Bowden style extruder, then first try the hot end PTFE fix
What the picture may show is a temperature too low, especially on these bad layers. Raise the temperature like you have tried (200 °C is good).
To avoid prints being knocked off the bed, try brim (it's in bed-adhesion in Cura), most people don't use raft anymore. What brim does is to add addition loops on the first layer of your prints and make it sticks as good as possible.
No raft, add brim. Then disable Z-hop, enable combing in Cura.
These steps should be able to mitigate the problem.
This does not look like a bed adhesion problem but something wrong with extrusion. Temperature may mitigate it, but if your printer is working properly, the entire range 180-220 or more should be "usable" with PLA (i.e. not having this kind of catastraphic print failure) just subject to different strength, cooling/warping, etc. properties.
I use the older 2018 model of the Ender3, and so far I have had only to replace some consumables and my extruder for an aluminium one, some nozzles, and one time a fresh Bowden, and I am golden.
To me, I see 2 problems:
You might print too cold. I print PLA at 200 °C, some brands I do print a little hotter.
You measured your extrusion rate. That is wrong. You need to calculate your steps per millimeter!
Because I don't know your printer, you need to look at how to calculate your proper steps/mm. I assume you have the Typical NEMA17 motor with a 1.8° per step (=200 Steps per rotation) and 16 Microsteps:
$d=2\times r$ diameter of the push-gear = 2*Radius
$C=d\times\pi$ Is the Circumference
$Step = 1.8°$ & $Ms=16$
$S=\frac {\frac{360°}{Step}\times Ms}C =\frac {200\times Ms}C =\frac {3200}{d\times\pi}$ Steps/mm
For a typical gear of about 10.5 to 11 mm diameter, that gives numbers between 97 and 92.5 steps/mm. Use your calculator to establish the minimum and maximum numbers first by using the top and bottom of the gear. Then you can test for the correct number in between these numbers. Depending on how soft the material is, the place for the effective gear diameter shifts: softer materials are closer to the high steps/mm number, harder ones more to the low steps/mm end.
@0scar I tried differnt Temps with a Test Cube and Differnt Speeds. Its got better but there are Still 'Anomalies' and The Printer cant print to Long. To day I will search for a Better selution. While Printing some Lines are Getting to big and thats why Flat surfaces stick out alittle. It Seems like a overlap Problem of the Lines. I dont use any overlab Procentige so Idk why therek is a Overlab. I hopefully will find out soon. But I first will ubgrade The Printer with a Camera to Show what I Mean.
@Ericsonpsy can you show a new picture? With some more info, we might help you tune your printer. I have included a template in the bottom of your pot that can help us help you! Please fill in the [blanks] with your settings!
Today I get the rest of the new Stuff for the Printer and than i Will make new Fotos
@Ericsonpsy Depending on the hardness of the filament the effective gear radius will change: with softer filaments (ABS, nylon, PETG) the teeth bite deeper and the steps/mm increase. You still need to extrude 100 mm of filament, measure the actually extruded length, and correct the steps/mm accordingly. You can also use the flowrate, which will result in the same result but it's a less clean solution.
@FarO true but you can calculate the minimum and maximum numbers and go from there.
I agree, it's important only to point out that an "a priori" (theoretical) calculation is usually not enough. I like your edit.
@FarO: IMO the cleanest solution is to set the steps/mm to the ideal for perfectly stiff filament, and set the filament diameter (especially nice if your firmware has volumentric extrusion mode) to the effective diameter as it passes through the extruder gear. That way you keep what's a material setting with material settings rather than constantly changing your machine-mechanical-property settings for each material.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE that's also an idea, even if Slic3r and derivatives have a field for filament-specific g-code which would work well too
I noticed that on my Ender 3, if the belts aren't tight enough, I have a similar problem, but mostly when I print anything circular.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.154035 | 2020-11-29T10:04:39 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14898",
"authors": [
"BnBNerd",
"Choupi Chupa",
"Chris Webb",
"Compare Business Loans LTD",
"Eric Goodwin",
"Ericsonpsy",
"FarO",
"François Bertrand",
"FrontENG",
"Grace Reyes",
"Lars Sandström",
"Mitchell",
"Mohammad Alzoubi",
"Piter Ataur",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"Richard Sonck",
"Schnabel Badel",
"Serp",
"Spammer",
"Trish",
"Tulip Monsella",
"Vitalijj Tikhomirov",
"Viter Edgar",
"alexlroemer",
"howard berger",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19888",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2338",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25491",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43925",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43926",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43927",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43941",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43948",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43960",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44040",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44105",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44155",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44159",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44162",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44163",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44164",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44165",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44265",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44269",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44275",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44308",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44310",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49887",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/50040",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"nick2491"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15662 | Z banding issue
I'm currently facing a Z banding issue that frustrates me more and more.
My printer is a modified Anycubic I3 Mega.
Customizations:
Mainboard: Bigtreetech SKR 1.4 Turbo
Stepper Drivers: TMC 2208 v3
Hotend: E3D Titan Aero
Hotbed: 5 mm aluminum base plate with a 200 W 12 V silicon heat mat and 3 mm hard paper as print base
External MOSFETs for the hotbed and hotend each
Bigtreetech 3.5 inch TFT screen as display
BL Touch sensor
Marlin version 2.0.6.1
What I tried to fix this issue:
check leadscrews for debris
cleaned leadscrews and applied new grease
checked Z couplers and hand tightened all screws
checked tightness of the Y/X axis belts
increased the driver current
replaced the 12 V 25 A PSU with a 12 V 30 A PSU
Extruder steps re-calibration
PID auto tune for hotend and bed
Pictures of the XYZ calibration cubes I printed:
Used slicer parameters (Prusa Slicer):
material: PETG
240 °C / 100 °C hotend/bed
Infill 30 % with 60 mm/s
outer perimeter with 30 mm/s
100 mm/s travel speed
1 mm retraction with 40 mm/s retraction speed
The number of these horizontal lines and their occurrence is different on each print.
Any ideas?
Hi welcome to 3DPrinting.SE. It looks like your Z crew sometimes misses some steps. Did you measure the height of the calibration cubes.
@0scar My calipers are not that exact but yes, it looks like its a litte bit too small. On my latest print I have 4 of those rings and it measures 19.4mm. During print it looks a lot like the z is not moving up for one layer resulting in printing the next layer on the same hight resulting in squishing the old layer which creates these rings.
@0scar so what could possibly cause these missing steps?
Are you sure the stepper drivers for the Z are correctly configured, enough current?
Yes I am. The current ist set to X 860mA Y 860mA Z1 950mA Z2 950mA E 850mA.
M122 shows no errors or anything suspicious.
So it looks like I finally resolved that issue. I compiled a complete new firmware based on the Marlin bugfix branch. Before I was working on the sources provided in the Bigtreetech GitHub. I started from scratch and put all the settings I needed into the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h. Now all rings are gone. Either there was really a bug or something or I messed up something in the firmware I used before and beginning from scratch solved it.
Since I cannot login into my other account I cannot mark this aswer as accepted solution.
Hi Christian, many thanks for returning and posting an answer! Please note question "How can one link / merge / combine / associate two accounts / users? (Anonymous / unregistered / cookie, or Google / Facebook / registered)" which directs to "I accidentally created two accounts; how do I merge them?" so you can fix this!
Ah that's a shame, what happened to your previous login? As 0scar states, the accounts can be merged by the moderators, but it would be easier if you could just use your old account. Oh and thanks for updating the question with an answer, nice one, thanks :-)
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.154728 | 2021-02-16T13:09:02 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15662",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Brody",
"Greenonline",
"Greyson Mc Intyre",
"JustOneMan",
"Matt Combs",
"Mihai Sopon",
"Mr Hornet",
"Ramazan Yukarıkır",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26901",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46890",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46891",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46892",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46894",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46895",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46913",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46962",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46964",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49882",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"jim gray",
"maynard Harris",
"zero695"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15806 | What happened around 2012~2013 in 3D printing field
Comparing trends show that 3D printing stepped over to another level around 2012~2013. Why?
A great story on the history of 3D printing is published by 3DSOURCED. It shows that the patents for FDM and SLA expired a few years earlier and the RepRap 3D printer self replicating project became very popular. Also, 3D printer manufacturers emerged and electronics, software and parts became available at a larger scale, so that it was more affordable for a hobbyist to dive in.
Could the same happen to 3D scan field? I mean, regarding patents for example.
once the patents run out, possibly, but I don't think to the degree of 3D Printers, as there is less "fun" application in scanners - and sharing scanned items might come with a legal backlash that sharing self-made designs might not because you much easier violate copyright.
It’s not even just fewer ‘fun’ applications for a 3D scanner, there are arguably fewer practical applications as well. 3D printing slots into the usual engineering development loop rather nicely as a way to speed up prototyping, and that’s a large part of what helped make it so generically popular, but 3D scanning is far less universally useful in such a setting.
History, Anthropology and Archaeology use 3D scanners, merged with 3D model generation it slots in nicely there (as in re-creating damaged artifacts etc)
Another opinion received:
That’s the result of MakerBot and others promoting the tech to the general public for the first time after the patents expired. They were just running up stock prices to make a lot of money
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.155012 | 2021-03-06T11:28:04 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15806",
"authors": [
"Austin Hemmelgarn",
"Bill Edwards",
"Eric Batule",
"Errol Buckle",
"Grant Writers Ltd",
"JOSE EDUARDO XAVIER FERREIRA",
"Kris Annetts",
"Megidd",
"Trish",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11091",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/27224",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47511",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47512",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47513",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47514",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47515",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47516",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/48030",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"أبو أدهم"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
22870 | Can I use two print heads to print mixed material based on own DIW extruder?
I want to use two SDS 5 (DIW) print heads on our Hyrel 3D printer to print one part with two different materials (not use the mixing component supplied by Hyrel company, because we want to DIY the printing nozzle). During the printing process, sometimes only one print head works, sometimes I need two print heads to work together.
I have thought of possible printing methods, but also have some drawbacks: Uses one print head as master, and another printing head clones the master head, but, using this method, we cannot control the mixed ratio of printing material during the printing process, the mixing ration is fixed during the printing process.
Is there a better way to solve this problem?
I've answered Jingcheng already, as he also emailed us with this question.
For posterity, I summarize the answer below. I work for Hyrel 3D.
With two separate extruders, you can alternate between, for example, T0 and T2. When the head offset from T0 to T2 is stored on head T2, this provides for tool changes without editing any position or flow data.
For gcode details, please see https://hyrel3d.com/wiki/index.php/Gcode
Note, this is not specific to DIW (Direct Ink Writing), aka Robocasting. The user just happened to be doing DIW in this case. Tool changes are the same (on Hyrel equipment) for all material deposition methods.
For those of us new to 3D printing, what's a "DIW" extruder?
Direct Ink Writing - printing with liquids or gels, usually at room temperature. Also called Robocasting. Thanks, I'll edit this.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.155451 | 2023-12-29T02:46:03 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/22870",
"authors": [
"Davo",
"FreeMan",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33169",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
20083 | How can I send G-code to a Bambu Labs X1/X1C?
What are the ways that G-code can be sent to a Bambu Labs X1/X1C?
Without wishing to sound pedantic, could you be a little more specific? Do you mean "Are there any unusual or undocumented ways?" I don't have this printer, but looking at the manual the only connectivity seems to be via Wi-Fi (using either a mobile app or an application running on a PC/Mac) - there doesn't appear to be an SD card slot, nor USB interface. Although there is mention of a Bambu Bus, but I have no idea what that is.
Do the printers actually exist? I only see pre-order tickets.
@0scar there have been some going to YouTubers, etc. that have prerelease versions.
There is indeed an SD card slot, at least on the X1C. So, as long as you can generate the G-code externally, you can run it. Not sure that answers OPs question about "sending" G-code, but it's doable.
USB Serial interface is used to communicate with the vast number of printers out there. I think OP is asking if it's possible to send GCode commands over USB serial. I came here wondering the same thing because I want to use the bambu for a simple but custom automation task.
If you use Bambu Studio, the printer has been bound to your Bambu Lab account, and your printer is on the same WiFi network as the computer. You can slice and press Print Plate and select your printer and print! Or you can load the G-Code onto an SD Card, insert it into the printer, and press print.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.155612 | 2022-10-17T02:32:49 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20083",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Greenonline",
"agarza",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23193",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/39959",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9452",
"meshtron",
"user391339"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
16126 | Ender 3 Pro with BLtouch + BigTreeTech Auto level not compensating
As the title says, I have an Ender 3 Pro + BLtouch v3.1 and BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 v2.0. I have the SKR loaded with "firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing.bin" but my printer does not seem to be auto leveling. I'm fairly new to 3D printing and I have no idea what I am missing. My bed seems pretty warped but that isn't an issue for small print. For larger prints I think I think I need to enable mesh bed leveling but I'm not sure how.
I have my start G-code setup as:
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
M104 S160; start warming extruder to 160
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto bed-level (BL-Touch)
M420 S1; enable auto bed-level?
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
; G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
; End of custom start GCode
It heats up the bed, does the 5x5 auto level and then heats the extruder but when printing I do not see the Z axis moving throughout the first layer to compensate for the warped bed.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Should I be using "firmware-bltouch.bin" instead and reinstall my Z switch?
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.155766 | 2021-04-18T13:54:03 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16126",
"authors": [
"Christian Pfeifer",
"Event Planning Company Ltd",
"Harry Cowley",
"Hilmy bin Ahmad Mohamad",
"Isaac Littlejohn",
"Peter Lella",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49787",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49788",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49789",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49799",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49876",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/50577"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15898 | What does the velocity profile of the motors look like when they change direction?
The stepper motors usually have a constant acceleration profile (trapezoidal profile) of an even jerk limit profile (S-curve profile). In linear motion, it seems possible to conserve proportion between x and y speed as shown
My confusion starts when the direction of motion changed so the proportion of speed must change too.
That impossible to join two velocity profiles except we decrease the speed of both axis down to zero then start ramping up with a new profile which means the 3D printer will stop and move for every G-Code segment that apparently not true.
So my question is how does the firmware deal with these problems joining velocity profile?
Different firmware deals with this differently. Are you asking about a specific flavor of firmware or brand of printer?
@Davo just for general idea will be okay. My inspection start from marlin then grbr I still don’t quite understand how it deal with this.I just found some research that suggests to bend the corner with Bezier curve.
The answer depends on the kinematics model in use. In Marlin there are at least:
Classic jerk
The "jerk", in units of mm/s not the expected mm/s³, is actually a "maximum instantaneous change" in velocity. Without any jerk (set to 0), your analysis would be correct, and all changes in direction would require slowing down to 0 velocity. However, with jerk, it's only necessary to slow down enough to make the necessary instantaneous change in velocity components less than the jerk limit. For a very slight change in direction (e.g. going around a curve approximated by line segments) this amounts to no slowdown at all. However, in this naive model, arbitrarily many bounded instantaneous velocity changes can happen in an arbitrarily small amount of time, essentially requiring unbounded acceleration capability and leading to missed steps/layer shifts.
Junction deviation
At each junction between segments where direction changes, the acceleration profile is executed as if the motion were cutting the corner in an arc, deviating from the exact corner by a distance of the configured junction deviation parameter. The actual step path still follows the sharp corner.
Others
I'm not really familiar with S-curve acceleration, but as I understand it it's a more advanced model fitting smooth curves to the travel path so that velocity can vary continuously, with bounded acceleration, rather than having jump discontinuities.
Klipper firmware also has a model very close to junction deviation, which its documentation explains clearly.
I mainly focused on jerk limit or constant acceleration profile. I still don't get how to make acceleration constant or jerk constant around the corner. Could you please explain more on that.
They're not constant. The model has acceleration bounded by the configured limit except as points of discontinuity, where the acceleration is formally infinite and the second-and-higher-order part of the velocity is bounded by the (misnamed) "jerk" limit.
If accelleration is infinite so jerk is infinit too isn't it?
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.155917 | 2021-03-18T19:23:02 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15898",
"authors": [
"Brennen Connolly",
"Davo",
"M lab",
"Maria bezs",
"Mark Davis",
"Martin Doehring",
"Patrick Brunel",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"S W",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21079",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47857",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47858",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47859",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47864",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47866",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47868",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15815 | Noise cancelling Chiron Y-axis
I want to be able to run my Chiron during night-time, but my neighbours tries to sleep at that time of day. I have put a lot of effort into making the printer silent. The controller-fan and power-supply-fan now run slower and only when needed, I have put the printer on those damper feet found on Thingiverse, I have added rods to stabilize the gantry and I have switched to TMC2209 for X, Y and Z. I have made sure the TMCs are tuned for 24V and are using 'stealth chop' below 225 rpm (120 mm/s). The result is impressive compared to how noisy the printer was when I bought it.
One problem was not solved, when Y-axis moves at between 35 and 45 mm/s, the printer starts to loudly vibrate at 220 to 280 Hz. To mitigate that, I first tried to slow down printing, but then print quality was hurt by oozing. Now I have reverted back to my desired print speed, but limited Y-axis feed-rate in Marlin to 32 mm/s using M203 Y 32. It is quiet enough, but many movements are slowed down, affecting quality.
What can I do to stop or mute these vibrations?
ADDED 2021-03-30
I have no proper accelerometer, so I used a MPU6050 accelerometer and some code in an ESP8266. It samples roughly 400 times per second and gives a vibration-value that can be used to estimate the level of vibrations. It is not frequency-compensated, but gives a hint of what is happening. And it can be used to compare settings.
I also made a program based on an example in TMCStepper so I could run the stepper and see/change all settings. This program also relays the measurements from my accelerometer so I can make graphs.
To do this I removed the stepper from the chassis, as I need to be somewhat quiet when doing these tests. It looks like this:
This graph sums up my findings pretty well:
X-axis shows motor-speed in full steps per second, fsps. fsps corresponds to the frequency of the noises I want to conceal. 200 fsps = 1 revolution per second = 60 rpm. On Chiron Y-axis 60 rpm = 32 mm/s = F1920.
Y-axis is shown with the scale log10(accelerometer values).
Here are the TMC-settings I used during the tests, which are same/or close to what Marlin use for 24V Chiron:
(TPWMTHRS was set to 0 when I tested StealthChop)
What I read from this chart (and my many measurements):
TMC2209 is much quieter below 120 fsps.
StealthChop is fantastic at low speeds.
StealthChop shall ONLY be used at really low speeds in a 3D printer. If at all, since switching mode also is noisy.
SpreadCycle use 256 usteps/fstep. A4988 use 16 usteps/fstep. I think that is the reason for TMC to be more quiet at low speeds.
What I do not understand:
Why is TMC2209 seems to be more loud at higher speeds. It might make different vibrations that my makeshift accelerometer rates worse, of course. But can I have a defective TMC2209? Or are the BigTreeTech boards bad? Or have I got fake TMC2209 with worse performance?
Have you tried a concrete tile for garden with foam below it?
Check https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/reduce-your-3d-printing-noise-with-a-concrete-paver
The same is on
Frequencies at 200+ Hz should not get to the neighbours, the walls and floor will absorb them. Lower frequencies are transmitted much more (see the video).
Try that, it's super cheap, and if not enough let us know for further help.
I noticed that my TMC drivers make a loud KLANK sound when switching from stealthchop to spreadcycle. The solution is to keep the in stealthchop at all time by butting the threshold really high (I set mine to 1000 mm/s). You may also look for resonance in your frame. If you’re using Klipper, you can use input Shaper with an accelerometer to lower ringing, it will improve your print ans make your printer quieter at the same time.
I have the same sharp sound when switching between the modes.
TMC2209 datasheet says: "Use a low transfer velocity to avoid a jerk at the switching point.". I have tested switching between the modes and I need to go very low for the switching to spreadCycle not to be annoying.
Since you have already invested in reducing the noise of you printer:
Move it away from the wall shared with your neighbor, or better a different room.
Reduce sound transmitted through the floor. Set the printer on some type of isolation table. This can be from an elaborate marble table to some type of homemade setup. You can put cushioning under the printer. The heavier the furniture the better.
Add an acoustical barrier to the wall, from a blanket to shaped acoustical foam.
Invest in noise cancelling equipment. Some are as low as $50.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.156288 | 2021-03-08T05:46:33 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15815",
"authors": [
"BW Hotelier",
"Dino Perrotti",
"Sadiq Lunat",
"Saul Ross",
"Shaun",
"Spammer",
"alecuinlove18",
"dotswe",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26869",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47555",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47556",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47557",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47564",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47576",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47578",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47579",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47580",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47581",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49158",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49894",
"user53461",
"簡佳萱"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15377 | Why does my Ender 5 Pro bed stop heating 10 °C below the set point?
After a long battle with SKR Mini v2, TFT35 and BLTouch and creating the right firmware. I thought I was through it all and ready to start printing again after finally being able to set the Z offset and auto level the bed. My printer has other thoughts. Now my bed temperature will only heat up to 10 °C below the set point temperature and after a few minutes it starts beeping and says this on the screen "Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset". As an example, set it to 60 °C, it will get up to 50 °C normally and stop at 50 °C.
Anyone gone through this? I'm sure there is some setting in the firmware that I have missed up. I'm hoping someone can educate me on my mistake.
Searching the error message "Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset" seems to indicate that the bed heater is timing out from not reaching temperature.
If you measure the voltage applied to the bed heater before the error message, does the voltage stay at Max.; i.e. 12 V for a 12 V bed heater? Or, does the voltage stay constant?
If you raise the target bed temperature, does is still error out at stop at 50 °C?
Since you only indicate changing firmware, we would assume the bed heater is the same as when previously working. Is this true?
Is the resistance of the bed heater a few ohms and not megaohms?
I was having the same issue after installing BTT SKR Mini E3 V2 and BLTouch on my Ender 5 Pro.
I did two things and my bed heats normally now, but I changed/did both things and can't say which fixed the issue for me.
I noticed the case fan wasn't coming on. I had it plugged into Fan 1 on the board. In my Marlin firmware, I noticed in Configuration_adv.h the USE_CONTROLLER_FAN was commented out, so I enabled it (removed the '//' in front of #define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN). After I flashed the firmware with this change, the controller box fan did start kicking on as I'd expect.
I also did PID tuning on the bed. The firmware I'd compiled had the PIDTEMPBED enabled as I prefer to tune the bed when I do the hotend too. I hadn't yet tuned the bed when I was getting the 10-degree heating failure. My bed was set to 60 °C and it wouldn't heat above 52 °C without giving the "Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset". After PID tuning (which I did after the fan firmware change too) the bed heats up to 60 °C and stays there now.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.156658 | 2021-01-20T12:59:32 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15377",
"authors": [
"Adam Stumpner",
"Andrew Bebbington",
"Free Free",
"James Simpson",
"Robert Chambers",
"Rocky Khan",
"Roland Chevalier",
"gregory frost",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45693",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45694",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45695",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45697",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45698",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45699",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45700",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/45816"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15659 | Mixing (closed loop) stepper drivers on MKS main board
Can I mix BIGTREETECH S42B closed loop stepper drivers on the MKS Gen L controller board with other drivers?
Are the pins in the same position? Would mixing work?
As far as I know, that should work. You need to define the correctly used drivers in your configuration. For the closed loop drivers, the board (via a break out board) has to provide the pulses to the motor driver (on the back of the stepper). If you use such a closed loop driver you need to disable the stepper driver type in your Configuration.h file for those you plan to insert a closed loop driver. The firmware will assume the A4988 driver is being used:
Now you need to set high enough values for the MAXIMUM_STEPPER_RATE (150000):
and the MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE (3):
in Marlin/src/inc/Conditionals_adv.h under HAS_DRIVER(4988).
Hi Oscar, thank you very much! I got a gd deal on some mks tmc2208 and an skr 1.3; couldn't get a deal on closed loops :/ will report bck.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.156889 | 2021-02-16T07:52:25 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15659",
"authors": [
"365 og",
"AJansen",
"Andrew ",
"Andreé Tjäderkvist",
"David Siemens",
"Jay Owens",
"Jorge Mercent",
"Joseph De Guzman",
"Martin Zunke",
"Marty Shellenbarger",
"Nearjobs.pk",
"Roy Liao",
"anthony menefee sr.",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26585",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46876",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46877",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46878",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46880",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46881",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46882",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46883",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46884",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46885",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46886",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47849",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49879",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/50579",
"iFish"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
5649 | MK8 extruder showing 500+ °C on temperature sensor?
I just finish building a Graber i3 printer from mixed parts (a MDF clone of Prusa i3 MK2). For the hotend, I've bought the Greetech MK8 extruder. However, the temperature sensor is driving me up the wall.
I've already checked the wires and connections, but the darn thing keeps showing a steady 500 degrees Celsius. In Marlin, it shows it right up (I'm using the 1st option for a 100k thermistor), in Repetier Firmware (using the same one), it shows 0.00°C, until I tell the printer to heat up, when it shoots to 500°C just like before with Marlin. The documentation for this extruder only lists it as a "100K NTC Thermistor", so I tried to select one of the NTC options on the list for both Marlin and Repetier and the temp sensor reads steady 3.600°C!!!
Measuring it with the multimeter, it shows around 60k, it's 31°C outside.
Is it broken or am I selecting the wrong thermistor type?
Documentation for MK8
A brand new thermistor shows about 95-105k ohm (depends on the multimeter quality), so it looks like that one is out of the range.
To be sure that it is a thermistor, you could connect a 100k potentiometer, play with it and see readings on the lcd. If the readings are OK, then mainboard is good so replace the thermistor.
A 100k thermistor curve
Thank you! I'll buy a new thermistor tomorrow and test it out, if that's the problem, I'll mark the question as answered.
The thermistor was fine, however there was a slight cut on the protective sleeve around its legs, so it was shorted against the metal block of the hotend. Used some thermal tape to unshort it.
For those that use that type of hotend (MK8 from Greetech), the correct option in Marlin is 11 (Beta 3950). Thanks a lot!
If your printer is a cheap one that uses a ribbon cable or other combined cables, verify your thermal sensor's polarity. I know, I know - it's a resistor (in most cases) and that means there's no such thing as polarity. Bear with me - I just helped a friend diagnose his printer (Geeetech, for the record) for showing 500C on one sensor and 'def' on the other, after replacing the mainboard with a different/more capable model. Turns out, they SHARE PINS, which suddenly makes polarity important. Swap the pins in the connector, and it might just work. First time I've run into this. We swapped only the Ext0 sensor and left the bed disconnected - Ext0 read normal, so we swapped both, and everything's been perfect since.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.157031 | 2018-03-18T21:41:31 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5649",
"authors": [
"Aashish Kumar Pandey",
"Amin Azizzadeh",
"Thomasleveil",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10235",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14146",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14147",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14148",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14150",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14157",
"jampez77",
"user3430483",
"อาท เองคับ"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
762 | It is worthwhile to protect electronics with a 3D printed PLA case?
PLA is flammable, but a good case can protect the main board from dirt.
Is it worthwhile to protect a circuit board with a 3d printed case?
Sidenote, PET blends (PET+, PETG, etc) are typically flame-retardant (will self-extinguish if the heat source is removed) and are thus a much better choice for electronics cases than PLA.
In the flammability tests I've seen PLA self-extinguished too. I forget who did them but it was a source I trust, maybe CNC kitchen.
It depends.
Protecting your electronics from being touched by random bits of conductive material which would short and fry them is always a good idea.
If it's something that will be visible, then a pleasant printed casing might go well. You might just as well use any other casing though, there's no requirement it be 3D printed.
For a very small circuitboard (an inch or less) heatshrink tubing might be a better form of protection. Or just insulating tape.
If you never intend to access the circuitry again and heat dissipation isn't a big issue, then just putting the whole lot in potting compound may work best for you - complete waterproofing and environmental protection.
Or you could just tape a bit of plastic from a 2l coke bottle over it, and get 99% of the protection you'll ever need, and still keep the circuit visible and accessible.
Ultimately, it boils down to: Do you want it to be covered? If so, by what? If you would prefer a 3D printed case, then do you want it enough that it is worth the time and effort to you?
3D printing cases is also nice to consider if someone other than yourself is going to be using the electronics. Think poka-yoke
As pointed out by Ryan Carlyle, not all 3D printing filament is flammable (such as PET and PETG), and the question therefore rather becomes:
Can 3D printing be used to make proper electronic cases?
And the short answer to that is yes. 3D printing allows to make customized cases of all varieties. Also, since there is huge variety of materials available, you not only restricted to cases of plastic filaments - should this be of interest.
Then again, it all depends on what you are protecting your electronics from. If you plan on submerging your electronics into water or throw them into a fire, 3D printing might not work for you at all. If dust protection is your only concern, however, 3D printed cases should do just fine in most cases.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.157268 | 2016-03-15T17:09:47 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/762",
"authors": [
"Aaron S.",
"Ciaran Maguire",
"John Jerry",
"Luis",
"Nikke Tech",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"Robotikid",
"Ryan Carlyle",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1970",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1971",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1972",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1973",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1992",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2012",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/298",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40936",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40938",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40939",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"icanc",
"mohamed elnashar",
"tan9",
"tbm0115"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14817 | 3D printer homing issue, nozzle damaging the bed when printing
I have a custom Cartesian style 3D printer. The controller board has been upgraded to a BIGTREETECH SKR V 1.4 Turbo. This is a 32 bit board.
Marlin 2.0.3 seemed to build and install with less issues than others. I'm using VS code to work with Marlin. My big problem is with homing all axis. For some reason the Z axis finishes with the extruder 6 mm above the bed. The extruder goes below the bed to start printing. It's damaging the bed. What can be done in Marlin 2.0.3 to fix it?
Welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Does this printer have a leveling sensor for automatic bed leveling? Homing is pretty straight forward, the endstops are triggered by forcing the carriage to move to the minimum position on each of the axes. From that point offsets are defined to take you to the printer origin. Note that the Z is by default raised after homing for many configurations. Please provide some more information, e.g. do you use a leveling sensor, a link to your config and config adv on PasteBin.
What can be done to fix similar issues? - I provided guidelines in the answer To few information to give more detailed hints. (I hope and suppose that author already fixed his issue, and this question could be closed.)
For some reason the Z axis finishes homing with the extruder 6 mm above the bed.
If homing Z axes seems proper - i.e. nozzle is "touching" the bed during proces, and not going below the bed level) - then homing may be correct. Otherwise do troubleshooting, as has been suggested in comments. Check also the offset and backoff settings. All these should allow to explain these 6 mm.
The extruder goes below the bed to start printing.
Follow this checklist about starting point to find out any other reasons which could come into play when printing starts.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.157503 | 2020-11-16T02:50:02 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14817",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Dehoi Rian",
"Gary Wright",
"Imam Syaefudin",
"Jack Christiansen",
"Joseph Cruz",
"Mendy weiss",
"Radzu",
"Spammer",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26170",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43586",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43587",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43588",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43597",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43598",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43599",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43600",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46261",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46269",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49883",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"octopus8",
"Андрей Дворядкин"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
15062 | Ender 3 nozzle moves through previous layer on lithophane
I'm trying to print lithophanes and having an issue with the nozzle moving through the previous layer and basically "drawing" through the print.
I've printed 3 lithophanes before with zero issues. Here are the settings for those:
0.4 mm nozzle
PLA
Temperatures
nozzle temperature 210 °C
bed 70 °C
0.12 mm layer height
manual bed leveling
30 mm/s speed
stock Ender 3 mainboard
Here's the settings for the prints I'm doing now with the 0.2 mm nozzle:
PLA
Temperatures
nozzle 210 °C
bed temp 70 ° C
0.12mm layer height
BLTouch auto bed leveling
20 mm/s speed
BigTreeTech mainboard
Here's what I've done and looked at to fix it:
Calibrated extruder
manual bed leveling, then ABL
calibrated Z offset
checked for flat spots on rollers, there are none
tried including a Z hop with little success.
I've referenced the following articles without solving the problem.
Nozzle rubs on previous layers
Ender 3 nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer as the print progresses
Below are the two lithophanes, the first one successful and the second the failure. I have tried going back to the 0.4 mm nozzle and the old settings but I'm getting the same failures. The biggest difference is the mainboard switch and adding the BLTouch. I don't have any issues with my other prints (more traditional 3D models) only lithophanes. Any help and ideas would be appreciated.
lithoophanes are printed standing, not laying.
Wouldn't it tip over from being too thin? Every reference I've seen has it lying flat on bed. I tried to generate supports in Cura and supports would barely touch it and didn't branch out far enough.
in any case, the lower print does show a lot of overextrusion. like... wrong steps/mm setting.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.157692 | 2020-12-19T14:36:19 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15062",
"authors": [
"Clown101",
"Eric Robinson",
"Michele",
"Moritz Hekeler",
"Trish",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25839",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44519",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44520",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44521",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44528",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49890",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"ry_ol",
"Максим Волков"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
14353 | Configure Marlin for tool changing system
I am planning to build a CoreXY machine with a tool changing system. I am using Marlin firmware and BigTreeTech SKR PRO as the controller board. There are 3 options in Marlin for tool changing systems:
Switching tool head
Magnetic switching tool head
Electromagnetic switching tool head
I want to use the switching tool head in my project using a servo/stepper motor. So I have 2 questions:
Should I use a servo or stepper motor? Which one does the board and firmware support?
Where should I connect the servo/stepper on the SKR PRO and what should the value of SWITCHING_TOOLHEAD_SERVO_NR be?
Note: I am also using a BLTouch leveling sensor So I can't connect the servo to the BLTouch servo port.
Edit: After so much research, finally, I found the way to do this. For the first question, Servo is the best choice.
First, we need to configure tool change x and y position and servo rotation angle in configuration.h file and leave SWITCHING_TOOLHEAD_SERVO_NR as it is. Also, uncomment #define NUM_SERVOS and set it to 2.Then we need to open Marlin\src\pins\stm32f4\pins_BTT_SKR_PRO_common.h file and in the Servos section, add the following line:
#define SERVO1_PIN PC9
In the end, connect the servo signal pin to the PC9 pin on extension 1 and the VCC and GND pin to the pins next to the PC9 pin that are GND and 5V.
Note: I haven't tested this because I don't have this board. If this way doesn't work, please tell me in comments.
To my knowledge a single PWM pin in exposed on extension port 1, but recalling Arduino tinkering you can use any digital or analog pin for a servo. For a stepper you require more pins to control the movement, how many tools are you focussing on? Each tool requires a feeder stepper... E3D uses Duet boards, they have many options for additional steppers (either through extension boards).
@0scar SKR PRO has 3 extruder outputs and because I use 2 of them, 1 of them (e2) will be unused. Also, my preference is to use a servo motor. But I don't know how to connect it to the board and configure marlin for it (pins.h, configuration.h,configuration_adv.h)
Use a servo. This way you can use the digital pins to control it; or in your specific case PWM_PC9
Connect it to the expansion port and configure one of the digital pins in the marlin configuration file. A servo will go to the minimum position when the pin goes low, and the max position when the pin goes high. I take it you don't need any stops in between since you're doing a tool changer.
If you figure out how to modify the code to support tool changing, I'd be interested to know as well.
Thanks for your answer. Can you please tell me what SWITCHING_TOOLHEAD_SERVO_NR is and how can I use it, if you know?
PWM_PC9 (pin 4 on extension 1) seems to be the only pwm pin available for use. I believe SERVR_NR is the index of the servo for the M280 command. I don't know enough about this part of marlin to be of much use.
After so much research, finally, I found the way to do this. For the first question, Servo is the best choice.
First, we need to configure tool change x and y position and servo rotation angle in configuration.h file and leave SWITCHING_TOOLHEAD_SERVO_NR as it is. Also, uncomment #define NUM_SERVOS and set it to 2.Then we need to open Marlin\src\pins\stm32f4\pins_BTT_SKR_PRO_common.h file and in the Servos section, add the following line:
#define SERVO1_PIN PC9
In the end, connect the servo signal pin to the PC9 pin on extension 1 and the VCC and GND pin to the pins next to the PC9 pin that are GND and 5V.
I haven't tested this because I don't have this board. If this way doesn't work, please tell me.
@MahanLameie, you don't have the SKR_PRO board? So you want me to see if this works? Just that a servo will rotate if the firmware is modified thusly?
Since this is becoming a chat: https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/112575/marlin-servo-control
No, I haven't bought it yet. Just I want to know if I can do it so when I was sure what I should do, I will buy it. This is not a cheap board, so buying it without knowing if it works or not is not true.
Also, I am comparing other boards to this to see which of them is better but because they are all similar, there is no difference for me to mention which of them, and since SKR PRO is the most popular, I mentioned this in my question. I just want to know the instructions and when I knew that, I can do it with any board. The only thing that I should do is find a PWM pin in the boards' datasheet and configure the pin number in Marlin.
Let's continue it in the chat room.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.157877 | 2020-09-01T05:41:23 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14353",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Fabrizio Gatta",
"Mahan Lamee",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23146",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49892",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"user77232"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
13917 | BLTouch ender 3 pro doing a very hard end stop
I am very new to 3D printing and after finding the bed on my Ender 3 Pro to be very uneven I decided to install a bl-touch module and new firmware from TH3D. I use Cura and it works fine but it only probes the the center as U put in the G28 G29 commands. Instead if I enter only the G28; HOME ALL AXES command, it performs the 12 point test.
At the very end of it however, it does a HARDSTOP against the x axis bracket and if i leave in the G29 command it will keep running until I think it may damage the belt.
I did find an old post from 2015 with the same problem and he found a fix in the marlin firmware but the firmware has been updated several times and I am unable to find anything similar. Additionally, I am not sure what firmware I have since the TH3D site just says "latest firmware " as of 21/06/2020.
Any help will be very much appreciated.
Thanks, Paul.
Reference videos below:
Dear Paul, please [edit] your question to use proper sentences and capitalization. I can barely make out what you want to ask, what you did and what you tried so far. Also, please link to your firmware.
This reads very hard, but I guess you imply that the probing gets past the boundaries of the bed. Please provide information on the bed size and definition in the config file. Most probably your endstops offsets are incorrect see this question.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.158293 | 2020-06-21T13:23:04 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13917",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"DMLLocksmith Services McKinney",
"Javad",
"Kerma Ochoa",
"M Mathan",
"Trish",
"VistaKetoOfficialPrice",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40077",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40078",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40079",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40104",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40105",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40107",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"user175038"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11908 | TFT35 and G-code preview
Is there a way to have the Bigtreetech TFT35 v3.0 show a G-code preview while printing - similar to the MKS TFT35?
Could you please expand the question, possibly with images, what is meant by previewing G-code while printing?
What Firmware are you using? Because you need to modify the firmware.
If this is related to print preview image, the MKS has a dedicated software/firmware release showing a preview of the model (probably generated from G-code). It might be the case that the Bigtreetech is an older fork of that branch, you could look into that.
I'm using version x.x.25 and I've made the changes in the firmware that I've found that relate to g-code preview, but I just get a blank icon displaying and now there is a long filename error when using the SD on the main board. I suspect there are other places to make changes in the firmware, but I am not finding them - I was hoping somebody else had experience with this.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.158446 | 2020-01-30T02:25:40 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11908",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Digital Marketing",
"Korner19",
"Martin Williams",
"Spammer",
"Spesemper",
"Trish",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19164",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35169",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35170",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35171",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35180",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35181",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49878",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"linkmoifun88one"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
12118 | Object is supposed to be symmetrical, but the bottom edge is flattened, why?
The object is supposed to be symmetrical, but it printed with a flat edge. Cura 4.5 even generated support material to make it round, but then it came out like this:
I tried printing it in the pegs straight down orientation, which was fine except it adds a crazy amount of support material. So much it becomes hard to remove.
How can I prevent Cura from flatting the edge? Or at least doing it much less than that.
I seen a overhang setting at 51 is that related?
The flat edge on the bottom was against the glass.
Can you add an image of the STL or link to the file? We have no clue how it is supposed to look. The image you posted of the print looks as if it is overextruded and printed too hot. The question also lacks printer and printer settings and material.
What other print settings did you have? I see a HUGE amount of ghosting there too (lower print speed for the outermost wall). A Snapshot of where you position it on the printer also migh thelp
Hm, now we know how it was supposed to look, but how did you pose it in Cura?
@Trish The edge that is flat that isn't supposed to be was against the print bed.
A guess: occasionally Cura goes crazy and leaves part of the design below bed level. Try quitting & restarting Cura, re-slice. Then take a close look in "Layer View"
@CarlWitthoft I have tried that and everything "looks" correct, but isn't.
Not sure if this is the cause, but you have severe underextrusion and bed leveling and/or Z axis mechanical issues.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.158564 | 2020-03-02T13:47:59 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12118",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Carl Witthoft",
"Dotpayments",
"Drivingads",
"Force",
"Khalid Afghan",
"La Sain",
"Nabila Monday",
"R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"Spammy Spam SPAM",
"Trish",
"Wex",
"cybernard",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16395",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35840",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35841",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35842",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35846",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35850",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35851",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40647",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40649",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
13692 | OctoPrint won't stop my print with a pause
Using the PrusaSlicer I discovered that we are able to insert a pause in mid print.
I wanted to use such feature to insert a lens in my print so I don't have to glue 2 parts to make my magnifying glass.
But unfortunately the print didn't stop at the specified layer.
Trying to manually pause the printer from the LCD didn't worked either.
The only way to stop my print is to print from the SD card instead of using OctoPrint.
Is there a pre-requisite to be able to trigger a pause from the G-code using OctoPrint?
Apparently PrusaSlicer insert an M601 command, maybe this had to be somewhat changed to another G-code command?
My 3D printer is an Ender 3 with an alternative 32-bit board : BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3 V1.2
I'm using the stock firmware : firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing.bin
I tried to look into the Configuration.h to see if there was a pause feature to enable but I didn't see it.
I've tried to pause, it didn't even trigger automatically when printing from the SD card... Maybe I need to tell the slicer to issue another G-code that is not M601...
Are you able to edit in codes like M4, G25, or M226? Are you able to insert a very slow move to home at the end of the layer, giving you time to place your lens?
I don't manually edit the code, I was hopping to set the slicer in such way so I don't have to hack into the file.
I'm not familiar with M4 nor M226, I'll give them a try
@Davo You probably mean G4 not M4 and M25 and not G25 ;-) Note that M25 should work for pausing SD prints. A safe way to pause a print is to insert a dwell time with G4.
Pausing has been asked before, there are multiple solutions posted. Note that it also depends on the version and configuration of the firmware.
I've tried to "insert custom GCODE" M25 in the slicer, the print paused nicely, the LCD showed me "print paused" message and I could then place my part to be embedded into my print, but then impossible to resume the print. I've waisted enough PLA today, I'll glue the parts with super glue... I think pausing prints aren't compatible with OctoPrint / my board / my printer or whatever. Thanks you all for helping me
@Sandra Clicking the/a button on the display didn't resume it?
Sadly no, I selected "resume print" from the LCD and the printer stay paused.
I think you are running Marlin Frimware 1.1.x, this means that you could use M600.
If you want to pause at the Octoprint command streaming level rather than at the printer level, have your slicer emit the Octoprint @pause command rather than real gcode for pause. This will cause it to go into the paused state and not send any further commands until you hit resume.
Docs link https://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/features/atcommands.html
Supported from octoprint version 1.3.7
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.158751 | 2020-05-18T10:19:50 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13692",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Birla Arnaa",
"Davo",
"Doris Webb",
"Joshua Newby",
"Peach_Zee",
"Sandra",
"Spammer",
"Tyeth",
"Ubiquitous Narcissist",
"eMS Share Market Classes",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21255",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30815",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38961",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38962",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38963",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38964",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38965",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38966",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38967",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49889",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49933",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/50595",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"jmsfer",
"richardvansoest",
"Марина Степанова"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
10781 | Bigtreetech upload stalled after uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
I recently bought a BigTreeTech SKR V1.3 and uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER and clicked the upload button but faced an error that says:
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: error: 'touch_buttons' was not declared in this scope
if (touch_buttons) {
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: note: suggested alternative: 'buttons'
if (touch_buttons) {
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
buttons
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:805:5: error: 'else' without a previous 'if'
else wait_for_unclick = false;
^~~~
*** [.pio\build\LPC1768\src\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp.o] Error 1
I am not sure what above message means, but can anyone else shed some light on why I am receiving these errors?
FWIW, I am using Marlin 2.
There is a temporary solution which I have found here, on the reprap forums, Re: Upload to the board failed after LCD enabled:
An official fix has been posted. Grab the new ultralcd.cpp from [github.com]
Apparently the sources contained a bug which was fixed later, a new version download fixed the problem.
I realize this is "your" own answer, however, rules still apply to answering your own question. As it stands right now, it can only be construed as a "link only" answer, which would make it ripe for deletion. Please post the gist of the information here in the question and use the link as reference. The reason why we ask this is because links can become stale ... if you bring the information here, it's here for perpetuity.
So what is the actual solution? The link is just to another question... As Paulster2 states, please edit your answer and include the solution.
Marlin 2.0.0 is in an Alpha state. 'Alpha' is a state before Beta, meaning, it's not hot off the presses, it isn't even off the presses. You need to go back to the most recent "stable" version of Marlin, which is 1.1.9 (found on the same page as the link above). This should most likely solve the errors and problems you're seeing.
Marlin 1.1.9. is not compatible with 32-bit boards like the SKR 1.3.
In my personal opinion, there's no reason to use 1.1.9 for any printer these days.
Marlin 2.0 is still very much in development.
If you face issues like this and you're certain you haven't introduced any typos,
try downloading the most current version of Marlin again (Github -> Download -> Download zip).
Copy in your configuration files and try to compile.
If the issue persists, you may try to use a version from a few days / weeks ago.
For this, select a previous commit from this list, and press the <> button to activate it.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.159050 | 2019-08-10T10:13:09 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10781",
"authors": [
"Ankit roy",
"Annam Shtiben",
"Breaux Petroleum",
"Carlos Marquez",
"Dutchfire5 ",
"Greenonline",
"Itzel Pérez",
"NextLet",
"Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"Renê Jardim",
"Scurrita",
"Shimmy",
"Spammer",
"Spammer McSpamface",
"Terrence",
"apotheke",
"cdickstein",
"dolly pathak",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30993",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30994",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30995",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/30997",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31003",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31004",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31005",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31016",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31046",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31135",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31136",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31953",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31963",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31978",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32158",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33454",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49873",
"towe"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11283 | How to wire P.I.N.D.A. v2 to an SKR V1.3 board?
I bought a BigTreeTech SKR v1.3 main board and a P.I.N.D.A v2 for my P3Steel MGN. Does anyone know to wire them together and which part in Marlin 2 do I need to change?
That depends on which voltage you want to run the sensor. You are installing an inductive sensor, you can connect it no differently than a normal endstop using the 5 V from the end stop header, or include a voltage divider or optocoupler to use a higher voltage for the sensor and the low voltage for the logic circuit.
Hi Jack. Welcome to the 3D printing group on Stack Exchange. Your question could use some more context so that the question stands alone, without the thoughts you have but aren't recorded. Filling in the context helps current readers give you a better answer, and, just as importantly, future readers can find your question and learn from the question and the answers. Some details that would help: links to information about the main board and the sensor, and an overview of what you want the sensor to do for you.
TL;DR
To answer your question how (by assuming you have a 4 pins PINDA v2 sensor) to connect the sensor to your board, you have 2 options:
Do not connect the white wire and treat the sensor as you would use a normal endstop switch (blue is ground, brown is +5 V, black is signal),
Connect the 4 wires (use a splitter cable to split out into a 3 and 1 pin connector, see image below), use the additional pin to read the thermistor value through a free analogue pin, this requires you to do a lot of code changes if you are using a different firmware than the original Prusa firmware.
The PINDA v2 auto bed leveling sensor has an additional wire, usually these bed leveling sensors only have 3 wires (power, ground and signal). The PINDA v2 probe has an additional wire that is connected to a thermistor. This thermistor reading is used by Prusa to compensate the trigger distance with temperature variation.
Wiring the fourth pin would require to reverse engineer the logic behind the temperature compensation if you aren't using the firmware of Prusa (e.g. when you are using Marlin firmware; this is not very simple!). Do note this is something engineered by Prusa printing engineers and implemented in their custom fork of Marlin firmware.
E.g. the compensation is calculated in Marlin_main.cpp by function temp_compensation_pinda_thermistor_offset. This function is called to return the offset based on the read temperature (actual calculation is done in temp_comp_interpolation(temperature_pinda)):
#ifdef PINDA_THERMISTOR
offset_z = temp_compensation_pinda_thermistor_offset(current_temperature_pinda);
#endif //PINDA_THERMISTOR
It is perfectly fine to not connect the white wire, this is the signal needed to read out the thermistor value used for the temperature compensation. This will disable the compensation feature and will revert the sensor to a normal inductive sensor.
oscar thank you so much for sharing this answer. just bought one of these 4 wire pinda probes, and this is exactly what i was looking for.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.159319 | 2019-11-03T00:12:11 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11283",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Alain Losier",
"Bapu",
"Celestial-Voyage",
"Corentin BURTIN",
"Doresoom",
"Gediminas Antanavicius",
"HSBC BANK",
"Henning Michael Møller Just",
"Hüseyin Çıkrıkcı",
"Kinard Spammer",
"Kurtzy",
"Losina Kk",
"Sean Brennan",
"cmm",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17080",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32853",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32854",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32855",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32870",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32871",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32872",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32873",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32874",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32876",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32890",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33452",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37805",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/39828",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49880",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"ipatch",
"trender_Arch"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11313 | How do I install the USB drivers for Bigtreetech's SKR Mini E3 v1.2?
I want to install the USB drivers for the BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 v1.2 from the GitHub page but I don't know how to proceed.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Go on youtube in the channel of teaching tech. Make a search about the board Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 v1.2 and I found this link that could help you too https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/ender3/forums/general/topic:40751
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.159616 | 2019-11-07T14:48:30 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11313",
"authors": [
"Akmal",
"Bünyamin Şahan",
"Eventual spammer",
"Felos",
"Francis",
"Januário Leal de Moraes Vieira",
"Ritesh Sharma",
"Spammer",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19623",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32973",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32974",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32975",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32989",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32990",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32991",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32993",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32994",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32995",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49877",
"ketan joshi",
"محمد علي اليمني"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11383 | Connecting 128x64 OLED to BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3
I'm trying to connect a 128x64 OLED display with the SH1106 driver for the BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 printer controller board which uses the 32 bit STM32f103RC MCU.
Note that it works fine with my RAMPS 1.4 board but when I compile it on PlatformIO for the 32 bit controller, it doesn't work. Probing the pins on the board, the data and clock pins are floating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Oliver, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Isn't this an OLED display instead of an LCD? Please add a photo of the graphical display to help others to answer your question.
Yeah, its an OLED, just changed the title. I've seen that Q/A, I believe it's quite old as they already implemented those changes with Marlin and it works without any modifications with the RAMPS 1.4 board. however, it doesn't seem to be working with my 32 bit controller which has the STM32f103RC MCU. I'm thinking it has something to do with the U8GLIB-HAL library.
Are you using the ARM version of the U8GLIB library? Please note that the U8GLIB is officially deprecated and not developed anymore. The developers have moved to U8G2, you can find many links of people using the OLED on the STM32. I cannot test this at the moment, my STM32 based controller board is being shipped...
yeah, marlin uses u8glib-hal for non atmega based boards
Bummer, I'll keep a watch on this Q and try myself when my board comes in. Please post an answer if you find a solution yourself! Good luck!
I also tried to connect an 12864 i2c oled screen, but I didn't succeed.
I don't think the library is good, or it's not good for stm32f103.
I found a link to a modified library ...
What stage are you at? did you manage to make skr e3 with oled, functional?
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.159717 | 2019-11-18T09:10:59 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11383",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Agropreneur",
"Flo2410",
"MattR",
"Nitin Choudhary",
"Oliver",
"Spammer",
"Tommy samosuk",
"darrenandliz Franklin",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19170",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21340",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33268",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33269",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33270",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33271",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33303",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49875",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
11460 | What UART port to use for RPi GPIO pins on an SKR v1.3 board
I have a Bigtreetech SKR v1.3, and I'm trying to connect a Raspberry Pi to the board using the RPi's GPIO pins as opposed to using a USB connection because space is limited within the case of CR10S Pro.
I watched this youtube video where he explains using the Z min and Z max endstops to connect to a RPi via the GPIO pins on a Raspberry Pi, and I've watched the video several times, but havent been able to get OctoPrint to connect to the SKR v1.3 board.
There is a dedicated UART serial port on the board other than the USB port but I'm using that for the Bigtreetech tft35 v2 display so that is not an option for connecting OctoPrint to the board.
There are 5 inputs on the board for stepper drives and the TMC2208 stepper drivers that I have installed operate over UART so I'm not opposed to using the extra stepper driver port on the board to communicate with the Pi if that is an option, but figuring out how to use the Z min plus the Z max pins to connect the Pi would be ideal.
board graphic pins
If you followed the video verbatim then the pins file will be wrong, because he's changing the pins based on an MKS Gen 1.4 and not the SKR 1.3. All pins on the SKR will look similar to P2_04, which is the pin for the 2nd hotend terminal.
Indeed, MKS boards are based on RAMPS (so "pins_RAMPS.h" are edited on video) and AVR-based. SKR is ARM-based (LPC1768), and use different pin symbols. (The voltage difference agains Pi is the same, though.) The video (@2:40s) presents how to free pins D18 (TX1) and D19 (RX1) and enable communication over this by setting #define SERIAL_PORT 1. But do you know how to resolve the question of @ipatch? I could only find instructions for connecting to SKR via TFT. If any pins could be successfully configured for OctoPrint connection?
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.159903 | 2019-12-02T19:09:00 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11460",
"authors": [
"Aera Min spam",
"Angel Ars",
"Asbestos Services Ltd",
"Haydn Ansell",
"Hu Zhi Xing",
"MY.D",
"Mario Mizzi",
"Realreli",
"Shane Sutterby",
"Vikki",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26170",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33577",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33578",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33579",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33580",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33581",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33582",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46412",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46414",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46416",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46427",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46435",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46446",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/49881",
"martyn smith",
"octopus8",
"shane hooten",
"user33578"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
7707 | Considerations when pausing a print job
Some prints take a long time and, as I'm not in a workshop, I need to pause the print sometimes.
Are there any special considerations I should take when pausing, or can I literally just click pause, leave it for twelve hours or so, and it'll continue without any ill effects?
I'm using PLA at present.
If you keep the head hot during the pause, and over the print, you will melt the material already deposited.
If you move to X0 Y0 (like on a layer change) and pause there, you can cool off the head (or not), but will want to prime (advance) some material before resuming your print - or risk an initial void, as the heated material will expand and drip to some extent.
If you move to X0 Y0, retract, and cool off for your pause, you should be able to heat up, advance, and resume with few issues. You will probably still need to some manual cleaning where the resume was, as there is likely to be some buildup.
Also, if you let the bed cool during your pause, your print may become unstuck from the bed.
All good points. Sounds like it's much better to design smaller pieces and print individually then. I don't know if the printer will move the extruder head to 0,0 if I press pause or not. I'll have to test it.
Pausing a print: A vital aspect to anyone who tries to do something advanced with 3d printing.
There are three (3) things:
Never pause over the print. Your pause "script" should lift the head up from the model and rapidly move it over to a parking region, which is clear of the bed (ideally).
Keep the bed warm, but retract the filament. Ensure that the filament gets retracted prior to the pause. Also the bed must stay hot/warm to ensure the part doesn't loose adhesion, and doesn't begin to warp out of shape (in the case of ABS).
Do not shut off the motors. If you are pausing so that you can insert objects into the print (screws, washers, electronics etc) then touching the print can cause the bed to shift. Keeping the motors running will help resist any movement of the build plate during said operation. If you are pausing to do a filament change then keeping the motors energized will help resist the back driving of the lead screw (or belts or whatever is moving the z axis) so that you don't accidentally push the z axis out of position.
Of course the most important thing is the resume command. It should "undo" the movements of the pause command and return the machine to a printing state.
This procedure the Prusa MK3S is doing exactly
It is not recommended to pause prints a considerable amount of time as the printed model will shrink and might warp during the pause. Also, layer bonding between the old and the new art after resuming will be weak, but this can be used to induce planned breaking layers.
On the other hand, if you have set up your printer properly, it is quite safe to leave the room even during the print:
Maxtemp and Thermal Runaway Protection need to be set
a smoke detector over the printer should be installed
the printer should be placed in a way that no flammable objects can get in contact with it
What use is a smoke detector if you're not there to hear it?
What use is a smoke detector if no one is around to hear it? Get a IP camera instead.
@user77232 it warns people in the area. An IR Camera does warn nobody. and you can use a smoke warner that calls you.
There are smoke detectors that will cut power to your printer.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.160112 | 2018-12-19T16:32:44 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7707",
"authors": [
"BanksySan",
"Dan Hulme",
"Davo",
"Trish",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13100",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13813",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20518",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"user77232",
"woodz"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
35 | Printing Plastic Replacement Parts
On a number of occasions I've broken small plastic parts that are nearly impossible to replace but could easily be 3-D printed. The latest such mishap is the volume knob on the factory-installed radio on my car.
I have little experience in 3D printing, and would like to be able to replace these parts with something very close to the original. Spending hours measuring and designing a replacement part that should be $5 isn't really an option. I need something to scan the broken pieces in 3D and somehow just seal up the seam where it's broken.
Is there a scanning/printing/software system to do this that doesn't require a lot of 3D design experience?
Hello @James, I noticed your question has been up for a while now. Have any of the answers below been able to solve your question? If so, would you mind accepting the appropriate answer. If not, what is missing so that we may help you further? Also, if you have figured it out on your own, you can always answer and accept your own solution. Thank you.
The easiest way is as you currently do: model the pieces by hand, using (digital) calipers to measure them.
Scanning technology isn't very good, and the models are not of printable quality. Usually, fixing a scan is more work than modeling an item from scratch.
The better the measuring equipment, the easier it becomes. I've used a CMM at work to "scan" a part with the touch probe. This gets me the curved surfaces that are hard to measure with calipers. Then again not everyone has $100k+ measuring equipment at their disposal lol Try looking for a local machine shop!
I'd say this is probably the best answer out of the bunch. For something as simple as a volume knob, even for new CAD users, it isn't a long process. I used this exact approach in my CAD class for students to practice modelling. For a volume knob, I can't imagine it should take more than 45 minutes even for a relatively new users
@Diesel 45 minutes for a $5 piece is still far from ideal. Even if it's the best solution at the moment, it's still too high a barrier for some.
@Erhannis, I'm not quite sure what you're getting at. 45 minutes is an estimate of course and if the part is 5$ is too much then cost of printing it is going to be a barrier. My comment was pointing out that modeling is a very easy skill to learn (not to be great at, but learn) and if it is a skill that is learned on free software the OP will then both not have to pay for either an expensive scanner and they'll be able to create whatever they need. If 45 minutes is too much time to learn something, how badly do you really need the thing?
@Diesel Sorry, I was basically complaining. If I had to pick between spending $5 and spending 45 min designing something mundane, I'd pick the $5. Now, as a learning exercise, it may be very worthwhile. Similarly, if the 45 minutes decreased significantly with practice (say, down to 5 or 10 minutes), then I would be ok with settling for the design route. (In general, I'm just dissatisfied with the state of 3d scanning technology, and wish it were magically perfect, haha.)
There is scanning technology: either hardware or software (such software typically works from multiple 2D photographs). It has limitations, but is an active research area, and getting better all the time. "Autodesk 123D Catch" and "3-Sweep" are a couple examples.
One tradeoff between automatic and manual is the complexity of the shape you need to duplicate. Sometimes you can make a much simpler shape that still works, and/or thicken the part so it doesn't break the next time. That can make manual design much more attractive.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.160532 | 2016-01-12T19:57:20 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/35",
"authors": [
"Brian Low",
"Curt Maybury",
"DanNsk",
"Diesel",
"Erhannis",
"Pops",
"bcmcfc",
"gabriel",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10790",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12383",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5518",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/80",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/81",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/82",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8347",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/93",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"tbm0115"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
18312 | Part not adhering to the raft
I'm having a very odd problem where my part is not sticking to the raft.
I'm using support material, with a very large overhang angle (70°). However I don't think this is the cause, as the side of the wheel that is on the build plate is several mm wide, and flat at that end. I need the 70° for a weird tread pattern that I have that only needs to be supported on the very first one.
I'm using PLA, with a nozzle temperature of 200 °C and a bed temperature of 50 °C.
I've checked that the part is snapping to the build plate, so there isn't a gap between the part and the raft, at least not modeled to be. Looking at the slicer (Cura) it seems as though there's a 2 layer gap between my part and the first layer of my wheel, but I'm not sure why it's there? or how to remove that gap
Layer 5
Layer 6
Layer 7
My assumption is that, if I can remove this, everything will work?? The part as it's being printed right now is looking like this, for the first layer of the part. As you can see here, my wheel is very not round.
What printer did you use? What build plate material do you use? Do you use heat or tape, etc. These should be inserted in the question by [edit]. If you cannot print PLA well without a raft, you have a problem with the initial gap size or your bed surface (adhesion), rafts are not necessary unless you print materials that shrink a lot.
The problem has to do with the slicer, not the raft. I've removed the raft tag from the question. Rafts ARE necessary when you have a small area that is in contact with the build plate and want to reduce the risk of a part coming loose on a 15-20+ hour print. You're focused on the wrong aspect of what is going wrong. I get that you don't like rafts, but that isn't the problem
@0scar The printer used, is irrelevant to the question. The build plate material is irrelevant to the question, heat used is in the original question and use of tape is irrelevant to the question.
I reviewed the G-Code and there was a Z-layer command that was larger than what was supposed to be. The Z-layer change shifted the nozzle up by 3x the distance it was supposed to (0.84 mm instead of 0.28 mm). I changed it to be just the layer distance and the print worked. I have NO idea why this happened, but a solution is a solution.
Interestingly though layers 6 and 7 in the images above were both at the same layer height, but the post-processing viewer identified them as two different layers. They were both at the same Z-value but were called out as different layers even though there was no change in the Z-value in the G-Code.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.160857 | 2021-11-01T16:29:14 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18312",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Diesel",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5518",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
380 | Drilling 3D-printed plastic
I need to do some post processing of my 3D-printed models that includes adding some holes. For each of PLA, ABS, PETG and other 3D-printing materials:
In what ways is drilling a hole in a model made from that material like or unlike drilling wood? Is it worth getting special "plastic drilling bits" that cost tons of money or can I use regular high speed drill bits? Do these plastics have grain that they will split on when drilled into, and if so, what are ways to avoid such splitting? Are higher speeds better, or lower speeds, or should I only use a finger-twirled bit holder?
Are some 3D-printing materials easier to drill than others?
What other methods also work for creating a hole in the different types of plastics?
In its current form, this question might be too broad. (At the moment of this writing, It has some close votes on it). However, I believe the question is useful. Maybe we should split it into questions for drilling in separate materials. I do think a canonical question about drilling 3D-printed plastic would be useful.
Have to get this out of the way... Can you just print the hole into the part instead of drilling? That's usually best, when possible.
If you need to drill, you'll definitely want to print an undersized hole and then ream it out with the drill. This both provides alignment for the drill and adds extra plastic around the region you'll be weakening. If you don't know where the hole needs to go in advance, fill the model with a hex pattern of tiny holes in the general region of the future drilling. This is an easy way to strengthen the area with more plastic without making the entire part solid. (Using a slicer that allows localized print settings will also work.)
The hole should be aligned more or less vertical or "across the grain" (+/-45 degrees aligned with the Z axis) to ensure there are nice, strong hoops of plastic around the hole to keep it from splitting. Drilling into a printed part (particularly PLA) from the side / parallel to the XY plane is highly likely to split it. It may even be ok at first but crack later under load or due to creep.
Regular wood drill bits work ok, but you need to go slow and take nibbles, leaving the plastic time to cool so it doesn't melt and stick to the bit. (Coolant is an option.) Use a pilot hole, piloted bit, or step drill to remove less plastic per pass. A really sharp bit will perform dramatically better than a dull bit.
Put something hard and drillable like wood behind the plastic part to help avoid breakage and bit-jamming when you break through the opposite side.
I wouldn't recommend drilling a hole in a 3D printed part in a traditional sense like with wood. Instead, I would merely ream a 3D printed part.
I've done this quite a bit where I'll print my holes at a slightly smaller than nominal size and use a standard carbide drill to ream the hole.
Things to consider:
Printing the holes smaller than nominal will ensure your hole is not printed larger than nominal
Printing with a higher shell will ensure you can remove the material without exposing the infill
Note that drilling directly into (or thru) an infill area of the part could lead to cracking of the part later, depending on the hole's functionality. In general, a printed hole (even if reamed) will be significantly stronger than one drilled through an infill area.
This is exactly what I've done in countless parts and I've never had problems.
I usually shrink the diameter by a mm or so and make sure I'm doing lots of perimeters. I wouldn't want to drill into infill... that could get messy.
In addition to the good answers already given, I'd like to add: Use a sharp drill bit, and don't go too fast. Dull drill bits and fast rotation are more likely to heat up the plastic (especially PLA) to a point where it gets soft again, and then you're usually in trouble because instead of a clean round cut, the material will start to bend and tear. And if you allow it to cool around the drill bit - well, I destroyed a thread tap this way...
Really good point about the sharpness! Anyone familiar with cutting plastic with traditional manufacturing is familiar with this issue, but a lot of hobbyists are not. +1
The weird part is, I have had much more succes drilling at high temperatures than low ones. The high temperatures soften the material, allowing to drill away parts of the plastic lines without breaking the structure apart. It also seams to strengthen the area around the hole.
The primary difference between drilling FDM printed plastic and wood is that the plastic part is not solid the entire way through, and that plastic will melt or burn at much lower temperatures than wood.
If you know before printing that you're going to want to drill the part or potentially need to, then you'll want to modify the design of the part such that there will be sufficient internal reinforcement and material in the location of the drill site. The way I've done this in the past is put a through hole through the the entire part and slightly undersize the hole. Then I also increase the number of shells on the part so that the threads will have some extra material to bite into.
If you know you're going to need a hole in the part but not sure where then I'd suggest using the highest level of infill possible on the print so that your part will be as close as possible to being solid plastic. Or if there are a few areas you think might need to be drilled you can build your own internal structure but that can take a lot of time.
If you didn't know your part was going to need to be drilled AND you printed with minimal infill then be very careful about drilling and only use minimal pressure to cut through the top layer to avoid crushing the part. Then once the part is drilled all the way through consider filling the part with an epoxy to reinforce the hole location (if necessary).
Best case scenario though is knowing where and how big you need the hole to be before print. Of course though specs change on the daily.
As for the heat generated from the drilling process I haven't had much trouble with dissipating it. My 'method' for drilling a printed part (technically reaming) is that after I align my hole with my drill press, I then tap the drill-bit cutting only a millimeter at a time, then retract, wait a few seconds then repeat until all the way through. A little time consuming but my reasoning is to minimize burning and overheating of the hole due to the cutting friction.
In all honesty I think my drilling approach is overkill. But, every time I've needed to do it has been due to an error in modelling. I didn't have the time to reprint and was under a time crunch. My post processing step therefore did not have the option to fail so I was extra careful. Whether it was overkill or not it definitely worked, and it's always better to be a little more cautious than late.
Drilling is indeed possible, but as stated in previous answers you should preferably do this along the vertical from the print bed for maximum strength, and if possible use an undersized hole as a starting point/guide. Drilling horizontally may cause the layers to separate but if you clamp down in the z-direction you're much more likely to succeed. It's likely to start cracking if even a relatively small torque is applied (one layer with bad adhesion is enough to make it surprisingly weak). If you still need to apply torque from the horizontal consider reinforcing the structure in the z-direction or splitting your print and gluing/fusing the pieces together to get some strength in both directions.
Two holes of decent strength (one along the vertical and one along the horizontal) can also be achieved by adding vertical holes and bolt the layers together.
When drilling take care not to apply too much force and make sure the excess doesn't get stuck in the drill bit. Any drill bit should work but I find that wood ones have a slight higher tendency to make the bit jam.
I realize this is an old post .. but playing around with drilling PLA myself ..
100 % infill .. and use dish soap for a lubricant .. it seemed to work really well ..
I am a hobby machinist .. had a lathe and mill years back and used all the proper oils etc .. but in this case didnt want to expose the pla to oils and I did that once on a part I was trying to wet sand .. and it appeared as though the pla absorbed some of the oil ..
Well that just gave me all kinds of thoughts and ideas as far as oil absorption goes .. lol
Maybe need to experiment with how much a piece of PLA will absorb if its even measureable ..
Anyways .. agree with all above .. and could give the dish soup a try in hopes that it will help lessen the amount of heat generated ..
Soap as a lube is a good choice, I use water for wet sanding myself.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.161107 | 2016-01-23T04:38:20 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/380",
"authors": [
"Ezra",
"Jagadesh",
"Kevin Morse",
"Luke",
"Manish Kumar",
"Mazaryk",
"Mehran Ullah",
"Morothar",
"Rodger Cooley",
"S.L. Barth is on codidact.com",
"Sharad",
"Trish",
"dead mutton",
"djsinghinfo",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10659",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/39658",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/65",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/66",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8585",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8586",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8587",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8598",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8748",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/933",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/934",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/935",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/936",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/937",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/938",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"kimi Tanaka",
"sehenley",
"tbm0115"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
3363 | Blow vs suck air over hotend's heatsink
I've build a 3D printer from sourced parts and mounted the hotend cooler to blow air over the heatsink.
Talking to a friend, he said it's better to reverse the airflow over the heatsink, but couldn't give me an argument other than everywhere he saw it was like this: all coolers are mount to suck the hot air away from the heatsink.
Is it one way better than the other way ? And if so, why ?
I think it also depends on th design of the radiator and how the fan is mounted on it. Some pics?
I am very confused if this radiator talk. A radiator like my car has in not in my printer. Do you mean the heater element? Ie the hotend or heated build plate? Or do you mean the cooling fins? That could kind of be called a radiator. In that case blow on not suck. Does sucking at your hand cool it?
It is unclear to what you are referring to, by your use of the term "radiator" - Could you add a photo of the "radiator"? Do you mean heatsink? Or have you installed an additional cooling mechanism?
Sorry, yes I mean heatsink. I'll edit the question
Getting hot air from the radiator is definitely wrong idea because of few reasons:
hot air can damage your fan (as they are usually not heatproof). Cold air cools the fan
cold air is denser so fan can suck more cold air than hot air so cooling is more efficient (fig A)
in terms of plug of radiator (with dust) it's much better to try to push cold air into plugged fan (fig C) than to suck the air from it (fig B). When flow is decreased there is higher possibility to damage the fan as it doesn't cool itself
Of course we are talking about 3D printers with small plastic fans. Please notice (almost) all fans construction: they are designed to get air from the top of the fan and push it to the bottom (this construction prevents damaging/plugging fan motor by dust)... and their mounting wholes (or clips) are usually... naturally suggesting to direct air to the heatsink)
In the case of 3D Printing, it's going to be faster to cool the radiator by blowing out the heat from the source.
The idea is that you're trying to get rid of as much heat as possible in the quickest means possible. By blowing away from the radiator, you're allowing the ambient temperature to cool the hot air being blown out.
If you were to blow the ambient air towards the radiator, the blown air will warm slightly as it is overwhelmed by the heat of the radiator. Even though the ambient air may be cooler, it will take more time to cool off the radiator.
Example of bad airflow, which will take much longer to cool the radiator:
Example of good airflow, allowing the hot air to be quickly cooled by the ambient temperature of the build space:
I don't dispute the conclusion, but I think its misleading to talk about ambient temperature. All that matters to the heatsink is the air passing its fins. Both cases mix 'new' air with the already heated air.
@SeanHoulihane I see what you're saying and I think I agree more with darth pixel's answer. I was coming from the perspective of a machine with a heated build plate, where the ambient temperature is still about 90°F (more if enclosed).
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.162152 | 2017-01-09T16:06:26 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3363",
"authors": [
"Brad Smalley",
"Chris Maggiulli",
"Dibba",
"Eric",
"Gggixijsridhar muthya",
"Greenonline",
"Gunslinger",
"MakerModder",
"MrGlass",
"Nicu Surdu",
"Priyangaz",
"Sean Houlihane",
"Shota",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2146",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5395",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5567",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7337",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7338",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7339",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7347",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7349",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7350",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7354",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7382",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7419",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7421",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7428",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"oli",
"rubdos",
"tbm0115",
"user7354"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
4845 | Where or who could I hire to assemble a 3d printer that came in a kit for me?
I planning on getting a resin 3d printer kit, and I don't want to take any risks building it myself. Where, or who, could I hire a professional capable of constructing a 3D printer kit? They don't necessarily have to specialize in constructing 3d printers, I just need someone qualified with the mechanical and technical skills for the job.
Why not buy an assembled printer?
What is your locale and budget? Which kit are you pursuing?
If you are not able to assemble a simple kit such as a 3d printer, you probably are not going to be able to calibrate the printer, maintain it over time, or even handle it safely. In all seriousness I suggest you spend some time building simpler things first.
If you have a makerspace in your area, you'll likely find individuals with reasonable mechanical skills suitable for simple kit assembly. Most kits are engineered to be reasonable assembly, not rocket surgery. Makers are by nature capable of construction, often from raw materials, and kits are typically not particularly challenging comparatively speaking.
Resin 3D printers are also simple in construction, as the component count is less than that of an FDM printer, or quite close in count. SLA designs involve laser modules, mirrors and alignment, while DLP designs involve light projection and light masking. Both designs involve vats and movement mechanics.
Even if you do not have a makerspace local to you, consider to contact one that might be nearer than farther away, as those spaces may have leads for you to locate a suitable victim/candidate.
Our local library makerspace often farms out contacts to me or other makers with the necessary skills to meet a patron's requirements.
I agree that a local makerspace is a good option, but I will say this...
Buying a kit and building it yourself, even with some frustration and learning curves, will help immensely with your ability to calibrate and troubleshoot issues later. If someone else builds it for you, chances are if something goes wrong, you'll need to seek out that person for help fixing things.
I just recently bought my first 3D printer (FDM) as a kit. Building it was a slight learning curve - I'm a technophile and have built things with Arduino before, but never a printer and the specifics that come along with it. Getting it to actually print reliably took me about two weeks. However, I'm MUCH more confident now to take care of issues as they arise, and keep it running smoothly. The value of this experience can not be overstated.
Although I agree that there is great value in assembling a kit, and also that I've assembled many things including a Genuine Prusa i3 MK2s, the OP desired to not build himself. I suspect that is why someone has tagged you for a -1. T'wasn't me, however.
I don’t mind the downvote. I understood the OP’s question, and was simply offering a counterpoint. Especially since the OP stated this desire was born of “not want[ing to] take any risks.” I get why that might be, but wanted to shed light on the position that can put you in down the road. :)
Though the downvote seems unwarranted since it was simply a qualified answer: makerspace is a good option, however... /shrug
I'll definitely consider building other kits later on, but I'd rather not take the risk on my first resin printer, as I'd rather at least have one working resin printer before I start messing with others, I don't exactly want to get caught in a situation where I have a pile of broken printers and no working ones, I didn't down vote you, and you do have good advice for later printers, I should get eventually get handy with these things, but I think I should get a working one first before messing around with custom mudded projector lasers, nozzles ect I'll give you an upvote (=
dang it won't let me... I don't have enough reputation yet... =[, wait would it even be possible to down vote someone with my low level of reputation... oh well sorry I couldn't up vote you...
@Max - all good! Good luck with your resin printer! :)
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.162483 | 2017-10-30T16:55:58 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4845",
"authors": [
"Carl Witthoft",
"Jesse Williams",
"Max",
"YetAnotherRandomUser",
"fred_dot_u",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/233",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3845",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5576",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8877",
"tjb1"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
20146 | How to save slicer profiles?
I've taken a bit of vacation and forgotten all the settings that I uncovered while tinkering with my printers. Different settings for different printers for different materials. I use Cura and PrusaSlicer, and they both behave more or less (randomly) the same. Sometimes they save some things, most of the time they don't save the important stuff. Neither slicer ever saves profiles, nor does it seem to have an option to, and they go weird if you change anything.
How are you supposed to save profiles? Can I save them out to a file for later import when I need them?
I realize that both will probably have different ways to circumnavigate profiles, so I don't mind breaking it out into 2 questions if need be.
Me? Oh I've just been hating profile saving for 12+0 years back when it was Slic3r. At least with that software I could save them as a file and make sure that they were imported at the start of every single print.
An example of randomness: on this print on a large diameter printer, the infill speed was set to 4mm/s in Cura, making the print time 9 hours. Once I fixed that, the print time was less than 2 hours.
Both Cura and PrusaSlicer save settings as comments in G-code files, so you should be able to recover settings form Gcode files, and save them as new profiles. I generally save projects along with G-code files, for extra security.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.162819 | 2022-10-30T18:45:22 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20146",
"authors": [],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
3392 | How can I print gears using very high resolution material like nylon
I'm trying to gear down a servo even further. I notice that the majority of the gears are made of nylon, and I want to create new gears that come close to the resolution and strength of the existing gears. I have a Replicator 2, but the resolution does not seem to come close to what I need. Any suggestions on how I can create nylon or other hard material parts that might work?
perhaps you mean nylon?
oops, yes, corrected
Fred seems to have you covered.
That said way too much work to get a replacement part.. Just buy mass made after market parts. I am sure you can get them on ebay for cheap for such a common printer.
Just because you mentioned how to create metal parts. Look up Lost PLA casting.
His term was "hard material" not hard metal, but any form of casting would require to have a decent resolution in the original part. One can now purchase also wax casting filament if burning out PLA isn't practical for the casting operation.
If changing the nozzle to a smaller diameter is a viable alternative for your printer, then that may give a major increase in your X-Y-resolution.
You can think of it like drawing with a pencil vs. a thick crayon: a fine tip allows for fine details.
Personally I have done some printing with a 0.25mm nozzle, which was a bit of a challenge to find good slicer settings for, but otherwise went very well, giving much better resolution than my 0.4mm nozzle (nearly twice a good to be exact).
This approach is true up to the point where the mechanical quality of the printer is less than the nozzle size, after which it's not getting you anything if your printer won't put the nozzle exactly where it's supposed to be. My cheesy Delta is somewhat past this point with a 0.3, I suspect. A Cartesian printer with quality parts should be able to go quite a ways in this direction.
Proceeding with the expectation that you mean nylon rather than vinyl, there are a few options open for you. What resolution are you seeking? Layer thickness of 0.100 mm is quite good, allowing for ten layers per mm of part thickness, with infill adjusted as required.
If you've already determined that your printer will not print at the resolution required for your gear design, you would perhaps purchase a higher resolution printer. Of course, that may be an expense you would like to avoid.
If your parts count is small, you could consider to print samples of the parts to confirm fit, but not worry about strength and then use an online service to have them printed via SLS method.
Selective Laser Sintering places nylon powder on the work surface, then selectively melts the powder into a solid. Each layer when completed is covered with another layer of powder and fused to the previous portion (or not) until the part is complete.
Because the un-fused powder provides support, there is no requirement for the model to have supplemental support structures. There is a requirement/objective that the part have "drain holes" in areas which might otherwise be solid. Any surface that entraps powder is charged to the purchaser as if the space within is included in the part.
An example would be a cube that can be printed as six square faces only. The cube wall thickness can be specified and if a drain hole is incorporated, the cost would be the volume of the walls only. No drain hole would mean the cube would be charged for the entire volume.
For gears, which are typically low profile/flat items, that's a minor consideration.
The same concept applies to SLA printing, which uses a laser in a vat of resin. If the model is a solid with no drain holes, the interior will retain the resin. It is possible that the interior can be cured with strong UV light and/or sunlight, but opaque resins would not accept this work-around, nor would it reduce the cost involved. Also note that SLA printed items would lack the necessary strength.
If farming out your parts is the direction you intend to travel, ensure the dimension stability reference in the vendor you use. Nylon sintered parts will shrink a known amount during the fusing process. The vendor should provide the appropriate reference, or the vendor should confirm that he adjusts the model appropriately for shrinkage.
I have one very tiny part constructed from SLS nylon and it's amazingly strong for such a thin wall. Nylon wears well too.
They likely would only need to buy a e3d hotend or the like to increase their resolution. but 0.1mm is great for any hobbyist level printer. Though SLA / powder prints are a bit overkill when he just needs replacement parts? we also need to know more about his exact needs and budget.
@StarWind0, I'd like to know more about user379468's requirements with respect to the resolution of the model. Your suggestion of a different hot end would be practical or a replacement smaller diameter nozzle. A smaller diameter nozzle has its own complications, but may be the right answer overall. Regarding the overkill aspect, he may have requirements not met by off-the-shelf stuff. That's one aspect I enjoy about my printer, the ability to create exactly what I need, or at the very least, take a stab at it!
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.162956 | 2017-01-13T18:07:54 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3392",
"authors": [
"Ashutosh",
"Axel Johansson",
"Ecnerwal",
"MakerModder",
"Paul Groepler",
"Spammer McSpamface",
"Stefan",
"cpdev",
"fred_dot_u",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2146",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5624",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6853",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7431",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7432",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7433",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7434",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7435",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7436",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7524",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"one_developer",
"user379468"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
3754 | Structural Analysis
I have some files for 3d printing that I want to do structural analysis because I plan to apply loads on them. I know there is a Solidworks analysis module for this purpose called Simulation, but according to what I have read about this software it is not very effective for analyzing parts that have been created by layers such as 3d prints.
Does anyone work with this and could describe important features to make a good structural analysis?
Depending on whether you can reimport an STL of the sliced model, you may have success with SolidWorks simulation. You would need to empirically model the interlayer adhesion, however, because SolidWorks would otherwise assume a rigid contact constraint. Doing the analysis as a solid model would require an empirical derating of the material properties based on infill density as well as defining rules for non-isotropic properties. It'd probably get messy. Why not just print and test? One benefit of printing is rapid turnaround cycles and (potentially) lower unit cost at small volumes.
For running an analysis on FDM printed parts Solidworks Sim would be extremely difficult to use. It's not really designed for running this type of analysis and is at the fairly low end of FEA analysis packages. An FDM analysis should be treated almost like a composite structure and you'd have better luck running something like ANSYS, or NASTRAN but those are by no means the only two. To get good (and accurate) results from FEA you'll need to model each layer, the bonding between each and the internal structure.
I've never done it myself but i've looked into doing it. The mesh required for even a fairly simple part looks pretty massive. Certainly possible and certainly doable, but you'd need to weigh your expectations against how much time it would take to model everything, set up the mesh and then run the analysis. In my experience, given that most FDM prints are pretty quick to build, it always seemed to be more efficient to build a few parts load them up and watch how they fail in a structural test. 20 hours of printing and then an additional 10-15 of setting up and running the tests were faster than running a proper FEA.
For a quick and dirty FEA, i'd use the solid model of my part and only consider loads that acted normal to the Z-Axis of the print. Any loads that act in shear apply a huge FOS. The closer to pure shear the larger the FOS you'd want to have. And any thin, tall parts i'd assume can take no loading outside of pure compression.
Edit:
Just noticed that this question had a tag on Heat-management
As far as a Heat loads go, it'll depend heavily on the infill type and density you have on your model. Everything from above will still apply, but the loads would then be thermal loads instead of structural. Particularly with FEM at best your first analysis will only be within about 50% of true values and you will then need to update your thermal model with the results from your first verification test.
Depending on the accuracy required from the analysis you could get away with modelling a hollow part with the walls of the part being the thickness of the printed shells. Higher accuracy analysis you'll have to model all layers as they are printed. If you're just looking for a 'will it melt' analysis, thin walls will work fairly accurately assuming you're confident in your material properties.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.163509 | 2017-03-17T01:43:29 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3754",
"authors": [
"Anubhav Das",
"Arunlak Anantakul",
"Hari",
"Marc Uberstein",
"Sophophile",
"bezdan janos",
"davefollmer",
"fresh new",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10401",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10402",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6425",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8553",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8554",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8555",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8561",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8562",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8698",
"mad"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
12064 | How much plastic pellets does it take to make 1 kg of filament? (making my own 3D filaments)
Maybe this is a stupid question, but is 1 kg of plastic pellets equivalent to 1 kg of filament? I want to extrude my own filament using recycled plastic pellets. I want to know the cost of my material in general, so I was wondering if 1 kg of plastic pellets result in 1 kg of filament (regular spool)? How much plastic pellets are needed get 1 kg of filament?
Hi @Deborah, and welcome to the 3D printing group. Questions may be on-topic or off-topic, but they are never "stupid" when asked with good intention.
As Fred.u said - if the extruder has a large reservoir, you may lose that much material once in each run. E.g. if the reservoir uses 10 g, then you lose 10 g no matter whether creating 100 g or 10 kg of filament in a single run.
If you ignore losses due to production machinery, your one kilogram of pellets will provide you with nearly one kilogram of filament. There may be some small loss of material stuck in the auger and drips from the nozzle and any place you discover plastic that is not on the spool.
How many plastic pellets does it take to make one kilogram of filament? One kilogram plus a bit more. If you are asking about the numerical quantity of pellets, how much does one pellet weigh? Are they large pellets or small pellets?
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.163804 | 2020-02-24T20:17:37 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12064",
"authors": [
"Berkshire Hathaway HomeService",
"Boy PKLtm",
"Carl Witthoft",
"Goole Game",
"Md Kamal",
"NAIBa QulYeva",
"Nick",
"cmm",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35671",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35672",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35673",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35677",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35683",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35689",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35699",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35700",
"user2283704",
"wazer"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
1355 | Can toothbrush bristles be printed?
Is it possible to print toothbrush bristles using a common FDM 3D printer? I am particularly interested in the width of bristles, closeness together of each bristle, and the flexibility of each particular bristle.
Hello @J. Roibal, I noticed your question has been up for a while now. Have any of the answers below been able to solve your question? If so, would you mind accepting the appropriate answer. If not, what is missing so that we may help you further? Also, if you have figured it out on your own, you can always answer and accept your own solution. Thank you.
Actually last year a group did use a normal FDM printer to 3d print hair, brushed, etc. See the press release from Carnegie Mellon University
https://www.engadget.com/2015/10/29/3d-printing-hair-is-as-easy-as-using-a-hot-glue-gun/
http://technabob.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/3d_printed_hair_by_Gierad_Laput_Xiang_Chen_Chris_Harrison_1.jpg
That said as far as I know you will not have access to this process, and is probably under a mountain of patents and other innovation killers.
Now how to do this outside of fancy software.
For a FDM printer the smallest nozzle I ever got was 0.1mm, it jammed instantly. One could print rows at this precision.
Now we have to move to something more advanced, such as DLP. Not the materials you want, but closer to the size you want. a formlabs can print at 25 microns. Which as a hair is 17 microns, you are "close enough" .. but a resin would be brittle and break. They do have other materials such as flexibles, but I am not familiar with them enough.
Also just going to mention. Tiny slivers of plastic is more likely to cut you than comb you.
One additional note on the formLabs (form1+) it can create features that are 25 microns but in my experience getting it to reliably print that is hit or miss, especially when they're printed extremely close together like on a bristle.
At this point, an FDM printer probably wouldn't produce good results if you intend on printing the same design as current toothbrushes.
Each strand is about 0.007" in diameter which is slightly larger than the typical minimum diameter that can possibly be extruded. This doesn't leave much room to provide a well enough surface between layers.
With features this small you might run into issues with resolution and accuracy of the machine. The resolution may determine how well the strands are printed separately. The accuracy may determine how well each layer print over each other. If your machines accuracy is about 0.0005", then expect your layers to have run-out of about 0.0005"-0.001" on a 0.007" size feature. I'm also not accounting for how well the machine is maintained/tuned, which could detriment both resolution and accuracy.
So, it's possible on an FDM, but not probable at this time.
To help your odds:
Slow your feed rate way down (maybe 30-40mm/s)
Watch over and under extrusion. It will be more evident on smaller features like this. It either will look like a big blob or pretty much nothing. You should have settings in your slicer to help compensate.
Clean your extruder and drive gear and tune the tension on filament in the extruder assembly.
Use quality filament! If the filament is out of round, then over/under extrusion will occur.
Be mindful of any health organization requirements on the type of materials you're allowed to use for something that goes in your mouth. The same logic goes for ensuring you don't print the bristles in something that can mold. I believe nylon is safe, at least in the US, but don't quote me on this.
Just to add to this, even FDA approved printed materials would not qualify for in the mouth. As ones printer will not meet FDA standards.
@StarWind do you happen to know how the printed part would not meet FDA standards? Not even for natural PLA or Nylon?
We had a long conversation about it in the facebook group I run, 3d printing hobbyists. The issue comes down to your machine is not going to meet food grade / clean room standards. The member who worked in that space was very sure about it. The plastic will.
I thought it was silly, given the temps we are talking about
That's right! There's the issue with contamination in the nozzle and build plate setups (tape, glue, etc.), right?
Theres a lot of points of failures for contamination. This discussion was primarily about the machine it self. Oil, blood from cuts, unwashed hands from employees. Then the enviorment it is in. A Chipolte grill is cleaned and taken care of. Employees have hairnets and so on. A dirty workshop is another vector.
I have had a go at doing something for a christmass tree using a drop loop technique. You could use the same method or somthing similar to try and create something that looks like toothbrush bristles, but I don't think you would want to try cleaning your teeth with it.
Could you maybe add a bit more detail? What's a "droop loop" technique?
Basically, the printer prints a line out from the model in thin air and then back to the model creating a loop or string of filament.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.163948 | 2016-06-16T16:00:37 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1355",
"authors": [
"Diesel",
"MakerModder",
"Manoj Pilania",
"TecBeast",
"Tom van der Zanden",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1476",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2146",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5518",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8380",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8381",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"tbm0115",
"user802599"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
3428 | What are some conductive filaments that can be used in printing electronics?
I'm very new to 3D printing, and I am very interested in printing electronics. I want to be able to print out circuits, so I've been trying to find a conductive filament. What sorts of conductive filaments are available to the consumer (me) and are of acceptable quality
Edited for clarity: I am not seeking a product recommendation, but rather am looking to know what sort of variety I can expect and more specifically which filaments are useful for printing electronics.
Be warned that if you're trying to do anything with high speed signals, conductive filaments will cause you lots of problems due to the tight tolerances on impedance. And I might even say is not possible with current 3D printers though I haven't tried anything that crazy before to be honest. Low power/slow signals you should be golden,
I'm voting to close this question as primarily opinion-based, because it asks for a product recommendation. Moreover, what is "acceptable quality" to me may not be to you.
They are asking what filaments are available to a consumer, if the "acceptable quality" line is clarified then this is fairly easy to answer.
You're asking the question the wrong way round. Find a candidate material, spec it and your use case, ask something specific about your concerns.
I have not been impressed with the conductive filaments that I have seen. Have you considered printing circuitry with conductive inks or pastes instead of filaments?
You can do a lot also an other thing i found very interesting is that you can metal plate that filaments xd :) so why not be able to metal plate specific areas that you have with that filament after the print ;)
@TomvanderZanden hey Tom. This post is from a new member. It's not that bad. Yet you voted to close? How does that help us get closer to being out of beta? I understand the programmer style black white and brutal often seen on SO however I feel you could have tried to work with the user to improve their question and coached them on what we look for. I don't think you know how you come across. Voting to close is aggressive and improper. I think we can improve this question and maybe get a new user who will come back IF we are nice and helpful.
@StarWind I disagree. That is simply the way StackExchange works. It's not a chatroom or forum. This is not a good question, and on any "mature" StackExchange site it would be closed quickly. It doesn't list any requirements: Are they looking to print stuff that needs low resistance? Low parasitic capacitance for high-frequency applications? Very few StackExchange sites accept product recommendation questions at all, and the few that do have strict standards on how specific and detailed your question should be. "Recommend me a high-quality X" is, IMO, not a suitable question.
Well let's talk about this more in meta. I feel you missed the point. I just want to express it would help us as a group if everyone was nice and more willing to work with these newcomers. There are already topics about this. As you are number one for points you have a larger responsibility to embrace and shape a positive community. These are not all harden veterans of stack overflow. Also maybe go read a few other SO communities, preferably non hard science engineering etc. You might find many are squishy and most do not hold what you say is standard.
Also to be fair he or she is not asking for brands. What sorts of filament. I personally answered that question as the sort that is infused with carbon or graphine. But that's how I read the question. Remind me what is the suggestion on the flag page? Help improve?
@StarWind You are right, my comment could have been more helpful and friendly, and explain more clearly what should be improved. I'll take note of this for the future, but I still think this question isn't a very good one. As Sean also points out, it should state the application and requirements for the filament. Googling "conductive filament" would answer the current question much better than a StackExchange answer ever could. How to ask explicitly states "search thoroughly for an answer before asking" and "give us details and context".
@TomvanderZanden I think we are in agreement. I also agree the question needs a lot of work. It would make a good meta post on how we want to help these new users who do not even have the basic terminology.
At this point conductive filaments are a very new thing. All the filiments on the market are PLA based that have been infused with Carbon or Graphine
However I worry you over estimate what you can do with this. You will at most be able to 3d print a simple wire and power a LED. You will not be able to run a microcontroller, and honestly I would expect a complicated print to have too much or too little resistance, maybe burst into flames.
You really should look into the Voxle 8 and other printers. The printer is really the driving factor. Using a conductive filament will not be enough. Note this printer uses a syringe not PLA plastic.
Here is a Voxle8 print.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.164346 | 2017-01-18T22:38:32 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3428",
"authors": [
"Bob Larson",
"Davo",
"Diesel",
"Dmitrii Maslennikov",
"MakerModder",
"Sean Houlihane",
"Tom van der Zanden",
"doppelgreener",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2146",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/233",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5518",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5536",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7540",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7541",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7542",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7585",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7603",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7604",
"iFreilicht",
"shiki068",
"tjb1",
"user5536",
"wizulus"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
2740 | 3D Printer seem to "Forget" Tool Path
I've run into a strange error that keeps reoccurring my with my prints. Part way through the printing process, it appears that the printer "Forgets" the tool path and stops all together or starts to move in random patterns. It still extrudes material and the result is mess of wasted filament.
At first I thought this might be a levelling issue, but this does not appear to be the case. This only seems to occur on prints taking longer than maybe 2-3 hours. Does anyone have any idea whats going on and how to correct it?
I am running an Ultimaker 2 Extended with using Cura for slicing.
I believe what you are experiencing is the stepper motors getting offset during the print, usually due to the nozzle colliding into the model (but possibly also due to very high printing speeds).
Basically, the stepper motors used in most 3D printers will always make moves relative to their current position (as opposed to absolute positioning). In other words, the stepper will for example be told to move 10 steps left, regardless of where it is currently at. If you therefore forcefully move the printhead out of position during the print, the electronics will never know it happened, and continue with instructions that are no longer viable.
In order to fix this, do what you can to avoid the nozzle colliding into the model:
Make sure your printer does not leave large deposits of filament, typically due to over extrusion or too close Z-leveling of the first layer.
Make sure the model sticks to the bed, so that warped parts don't lift up, obstructing the toolpaths.
Add Z-lift in your slicer software, so that the printhead lifts slightly between travel moves.
Reduce travel speed (if it is set very high): the strength of stepper motors is lower at higher speeds, which means nozzle collisions at higher speeds most likely will offset the motors.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.164749 | 2016-09-08T21:39:11 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2740",
"authors": [
"Alexis Viau-Cardinal",
"CoffeeIsLife",
"Frosst",
"haxpanel",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18608",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5539",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5540",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5548"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
3641 | Assisted manual levelling with Marlin
Marlin offers a bunch of different choices for auto-levelling and assisted manual levelling for bent build plates (mesh levelling), but for the moment I want to level things completely manually.
That is, I want to move Z to 0, disable steppers, and then move around the print head and adjust the distance between bed and nozzle at various points with a piece of paper.
With the old Repetier based firmware on my printer, selecting "home all axes" did not only home XYZ to endstops, but it also moved the head to position (0, 0, 0) afterwards. Then I could simply disable steppers via the menu and go on with my levelling. Note that in my case, the coordinates of the endstop positions are negative for all axes, so moving to the endstops alone isn't cutting it.
With Marlin, selecting the "auto home" option merely moves to the endstops and then to some positive Z position (+10). This means I have to use the menu to manually move Z back to 0, which is quite inconvenient, unless I have a PC nearby that allows me to enter G-code.
So, that leaves two related questions for me:
Is there some simple way to move to (0, 0, 0) with the menu?
Can I implement an assisted manual levelling (i.e. some procedure that simply moves the head between a number of different X/Y positions) easily? Does something like that already exist? If not, I wonder why.
If you move the print head manually (steppers disabled), the firmware will not be able to know its position, which is required for mesh leveling. If you just want to level corners, theres an option for that in Prepare. If you want to add specific points to the mesh easily, now thats a question!
Write a few pieces of gcode to do this. Place it on an SD-card (I assume you have a reader) and select the file you want to execute.
Home all:
G28
G1 Z0
Do you really want to home it directly? I would say you want to take it down slowly and adjusting end-stops incrementally.
First:
G28
G1 Z10
Then
G28
G1 Z3
Then
G28
G1 Z1
etc etc
You can also move it around in the X and Y plane:
G28
G1 Z5 X50 Y30
The way I manually level my bed is by connecting a computer to the printer via USB. As far as I am aware, if you have a touchscreen this should be available on the printer options as well for marlin.
But if you connect a computer, simply run something like pronterface or any other manual control gui and:
1) home axes
2) disable motors
3) move printhead in x/y directions as necessary by hand
4) adjust z height manually with the GUI software. This should not affect your x/y positions or turn on their motors.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.164937 | 2017-02-22T11:23:49 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3641",
"authors": [
"Andrew Schott",
"L Selter",
"Marci JC",
"Markus Maresch",
"Max Markiv-Bukovskyy",
"Robert Gates",
"Saifuddin Raiyan",
"Stemfie3D",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10144",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10614",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13906",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17202",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8253",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8254",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8255",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8258",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8403",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8753",
"mikezter",
"toddmo"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
109 | What is a good way to estimate the impact on material strength different printing methods will have?
I'm going to 3D print a part that needs to meet certain strength requirements, due to its usages. I know how strong a particular plastic (eg. comrpessive/tensile/shear strength) is when dealt with in a solid chunk, but not when it is 3D printed. What is a good way to estimate the change?
I am voting to close this question as "unclear what you're asking" because it does not identify a specific part, specific requirements, a specific printing process, a specific material,... We can not possibly answer this question in a useful way without knowing exactly what you're trying to achieve.
@TomvanderZanden I felt this would be less useful if I mentioned specific technologies. I don't see how this is impossible to answer in general terms.
You need to do a DOE (design of experiments).
This is a good question, which hadn't received enough researchers' attention. People regularly print different objects, some of them with strength requirements and the need for a method of strength estimation is high.
Good experimental way to estimate the change would be to find a COTS cast plastic object, be it ABS or PLA or whatever, buy 3-5 pieces, then reverse engineer it, copy the design and print it 3-5 times in different orientations. Then you need to start destroying your objects in a manner that coincides with your needs. If your parts would be experiencing compression - crush them, if stretching - tear them apart, and measure the required strength. Then compare and get relative strength, that you can further use in your calculations. You'll notice that adhesion between FDM layers is much weaker than strength of bonds in the layer plane, so you'll have two coefficients - one for Z axis, one for XY (note, that printer settings can heavily affect the result, so every coefficient will be a function of printing parameters). Can't tell 100% reliably, but SLA may have just one coefficient - I hadn't noticed any difference between parts' strength in Z and XY directions.
If you're not a fan of thorough scientific approach, then you can just print your part and test it under your target conditions as much times as necessary. Or make a casting mold, then a solid object.
we also have problems with determining all the effects of weather on prints - high humidity or temperature might have unexpected print strengths.
It's hard to tell without actually testing the part. There are many ways you can 3D print a part, even on the same machine, that can yield different results.
Here are some tips to help uphold strength requirements:
Identify where your stresses are and avoid allowing the natural "grain" of the print (i.e. each layer) to coincide with the stresses of the part. For example, I just printed a part with hinges today. I set my part up to ensure that the circular profile of the hinge on each layer, instead of having the machine "bridge" the circular profile.
Make your part more solid by increasing the infill. Note that somewhere around 35% won't really provide much more strength than say 50% with a standard infill pattern (i.e. hexagonal, diamond, catfill). However, I would imagine that if a spherical infill pattern was ever designed, that would be the strongest.
An easy way to beef up small areas of a part is to increase your shell variable (how many profile layers for each layer). Again, referencing my hinge design, I made sure that my hinges were completely printed using shell instead of shell/infill.
Don't be afraid to do some post-processing such as adding epoxy/epoxies in high-stress areas.
If it's not an expensive part to print, I would suggest playing with some of these ideas yourself and conduct controlled tests to see what setups work best for your application(s).
"Note that somewhere around 35% won't really provide much more strength than say 50% with a standard infill pattern" - Where did you get that number? I have always heard that limit is at around 60% and found it in written at least once... but I have not run independent tests to verify the info, so I'd be glad to be corrected if I'm wrong.
That's from some MakerBot reports. I suppose that statement is also dependent upon the size of the part as well. It usually boils down to the size of the "dead space" of each cell in the infill pattern. I believe my comment mostly to parts that fall within a 5"^3 space
"dependent upon the size of the part as well" - Interesting... I have to think about it. Intuitively I would say "no" as the size only changes the number of the cells in the infill, not their dimension, so - for a sample unit of infill - the density of the material and the orientation of the tensile vectors should remain exactly the same... but I feel I may be well missing something obvious. Thank you for the quick response anyway! :)
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.165178 | 2016-01-13T01:18:42 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/109",
"authors": [
"Appleth IPadair",
"Dogmatixed",
"Fernando Baltazar",
"Gayan Vishwajith",
"GiantCowFilms",
"Kim Oun",
"Tanner Edwards",
"Tom van der Zanden",
"Trish",
"blackace",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13392",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13408",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13409",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/143",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18613",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/255",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/256",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/257",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/312",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4454",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9134",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"mac",
"tbm0115",
"thattolleyguy",
"tir38"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
1045 | What are the modifications on this Kossel?
(This question is a kind of self-answer. I know who built this printer, he explained the modifications, and I thought it might be interesting for others too. I've asked him to answer this question, to keep this information on Stack Exchange. I realize this question in its current form may be "Too Broad", feel free to edit to make it more specific).
I saw this Kossel Mini printer, and noted that it has some modifications. I'm told this is to make it easier to transport, and would like to know how these modifications make it more robust and more transportable.
I am voting to close this question as "unclear what you're asking" because it is impossible for somebody (who doesn't just happen to be the particular builder of this printer) to tell what modifications are on there from just that single picture. I think this question is also too broad (it would be better to ask a question about a specific modification like what kind of extruder is on there).
This technically could be placed in Meta as it does bring up a good point of where questions like this have a place (if at all) in SE
@tbm0115 Some of the entertainment sites (e.g. anime.SE) have identification requests. I think this question is a variant of these. They have rules about id requests - we could discuss if we need such rules here as well.
On SE.Robotics I have seen some questions that are of the type "Please identify this robot arm/grabber/etc.". Cool Kossel BTW! :-)
Cool you placed my Kossel Mini on Stackexchange!
What I have modified to the standard kit:
Retractable probe using RC Marlin (Rich Cattels Marlin with auto bed probe functionality). Never have to adjust endstops after it is once setup.
All can be done in firmware.
Made a transport case, in the picture the cover is missing which is a triangular case which fits over the printer.
You can clip it on and the carry it with the handle on top.
I just throw it in the car and bring it to the Hackerspace and Hackerevents/Makerfaires and when I feel to it, I can do an auto-probe to align it again (which is hardly needed BTW)
Another mod is the Vaeder extruder, which is really cool in the way it uses a GT2 timing belt to drive the filament. It uses a round wheel and it drives the filament over 1/4 of the diameter of the wheel, so there is a 3 to 4 cm area where the belt drives the filament.
Advantages:
Lots of retracts don't "eat" into the filament causing feed issues
Doesn't flatten the filament. Keeps it nice and round.
Disadvantages (at this moment):
Not possible/ very hard to do filament swaps on the fly (to experiment with multicolor prints).
First time assembly can be a head ache, once you have it assembled it really works and is easy going.
And last but not least. I made a foldable Roll holder.
It is mounted on top by two M8 screws with knobs. When I am done I undo these two screws, fold in the roll holder and it is then mounted to the side of the flight case. This way I can transport printer and roll holder carrying it only using 1 hand. So I use the other hand carrying the bag with accessories like rolls of filament, 3D spray, tweezers etc.
Maybe this info helps other people new to 3D printing improve their printers, or enables them to bring printers more easily to meets and events to inspire others to build more Delta printers. As it's just mesmerizing to see them print. I love watching the print come to reality because it such beautiful piece of engineering!
Thanks for answering the question! I expect that people may edit this answer a bit; Stack Exchange tries to keep "fluff" to a minimum and focus on the technology itself. (BTW if people make edits that you disagree with, you can roll them back). You may want to edit it yourself, to show/explain how some of the modifications were made. The site is all about creating content that is directly useful. And I believe the things you explained me earlier, are directly useful for people with Kossels or other delta printers.
Do you have an answer for this How long are the carbon fibre rods for a Travelling Kossel?
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.165673 | 2016-04-24T19:35:02 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1045",
"authors": [
"Doug",
"Greenonline",
"Irene",
"Matt",
"Rachel Andren",
"S.L. Barth is on codidact.com",
"Tom van der Zanden",
"Vermonster",
"ftobler",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17447",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17448",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18545",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2714",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2715",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2716",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2717",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2756",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/65",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"jackbtroop62",
"panthro",
"tbm0115"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/",
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
6364 | How bed leveling is achieved without table screws?
I have seen printers with table screws and bed leveling sensor and printers that have only bed leveling sensor (such as Prusa).
So my question is how does the bed levelling work when there is only a sensor, and no adjustment screws? What will happen if I totally remove the table from the printer and then re-assemble it? Will the print fail or what?
Are you asking 'will the calibration persist through dissassembly/reassembly' or something else? Your question is a bit confusing,
RealMen(TM) always level manually like the universe intended. (Shamelessly stolen from some stick-shift enthusiast)
@SeanHoulihane Yes, exactly that.
Does any of the answers helped you to get an answer on your question or helped you come to your own conclusions then please do vote and accept an answer. This helps us reduce the unaswered questions list. Found an other answer (then the already posted) yourself? Please add that answer (and accept after 48 hours) to share your experience with the community.
Prusa uses 9 marker points in the bed that are sensed with an induction sensor to determine the X, Y and Z position. Any deviation for skewness or bed level is compensated through the software. Please do note that the bed is pretty level to begin with (by design).
This is precisely described here, please check the video.
Note that Marlin Firmware (which is basically what drives the Prusa printers) has skewness compensation implemented. This is implemented in the configuration file, and found under header Bed Skew Compensation. You basically print a square and measure the diagonals and insert these measurements into the configuration file. Prusa printers do this automatically by using the measurements of the marker points.
One question to the auto leveling: If the bed is tilted and the autoleveling measured this and then the printer adjust the z axis over the position on the bed, will a x-y-point on the first layer be located exactly under the (in model) same x-y-point in a higher layer, or will it be shifted to? I mean, if the bed is 1 mm lower on one side over 10 cm then a top corner of a 10-cm-cube should be also 1 mm shifted, so that the cube sill is real cubic and not sheared.
@Horitsu The bed level is usually fading out over a predefined distance, in e.g. Marlin #define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT determines that, and the height can be set with M420 Z<height>. Yes, a cube will not be perfectly cubic, that is why even with auto bed leveling you need to provide a bed as level as possible, it only should correct for very small deviations.
@Horitsu Your comment contains a valid question that contains information to ask here on SE.3DPrinting. I'll be happy to answer it again in more detail.
@0scar It is a bit hard t tell from the original question, but I think you can reasonably include this extra detail in this answer. 'How does bed-leveling function' includes the aspect in the comment, and a good answer would make this a good 'duplicate target'.
@0scar i posted it as own question, I'm exited for the answer
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.166043 | 2018-07-10T19:00:00 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6364",
"authors": [
"0scar",
"Carl Witthoft",
"Duy Đặng",
"Hamy",
"Horitsu",
"Jim Witte",
"K.Mooijman",
"KCL",
"Nobody",
"OrElse",
"Sean Houlihane",
"WesleyK",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10230",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16832",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16833",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16834",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16835",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16836",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16837",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16838",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16840",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16917",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9575",
"larbi erradi",
"mckenzm"
],
"all_licenses": [
"Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"
],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.