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The great eastern European road trip part five: Slovakia | Travel | The Guardian
A trek to Slovakia’s Tatra mountain peaks presents tough challenges for Kevin Rushby and family. Next: Poland• Week 1: Croatia Week 2: Albania Week 3: Bulgaria Week 4: Romania
Maddy on the Tatranská Magistrála footpath in Slovakia’s High Tatra. All photographs by Kevin Rushby
If you’ve ever planned a family hiking trip, you’ll know that such enterprises are often tricky. And tackling Slovakia’s High Tatra was definitely ambitious. I’d tried hard while in the UK to gather information from the web, but most of it was in Slovak and anyway it all depended on our capabilities, a factor I hardly knew how to explain. Maddy, 12, was adamant that she hated walking and loved only swimming; my partner, Sophie, liked walking, but hated the cold. I passed responsibility to a hiking agency in Slovakia and prayed they would understand.
Tatra Slovakia map
Weeks later, we were in the Slovakian city of Poprad, gateway to the Tatra mountains, which rise abruptly to the north, intimidatingly massive and jagged. We were packing. I was trying to explain that every gram of unnecessary weight would be regretted, while playing down the challenges ahead. I did not mention, for example, that one 2,422-metre peak went by the name of Satan, nor that our ultimate goal, Rysy, was even higher. I had started to sound like a supermarket self-service checkout: “Unexpected item in bagging area!” From a pile of gear that would send shivers through a Sherpa, I pulled out a huge pink bottle. Sophie trembled. “You can’t expect me to go without moisturiser!” Our preparations took some time.
From Poprad a train service runs up to the Tatra’s skirts. There are small towns even closer to the mountains: Stary Smokovec and Tatranska Lomnica being the largest and best-placed. From the latter a cable car can even take you to over 2,600 metres, but I didn’t tell Maddy that.
We started at a trailhead called Biela Voda. We had, after much frank discussion, weeded our equipment down to three day packs – the huts would provide bedding and food. Three hours of gentle walking brought us to our first overnight stop: Zelenom hut, on the shores of a small lake and surrounded on three sides by towering peaks. On a sunny afternoon in August the place was heaving with walkers grabbing lunch, helpfully explained with a series of photos: kapustova, hearty cabbage soup, for example, and halusky, small potato dumplings covered in bacon and sheep’s cheese. Every hut also makes its own herbal tea, chai, from mountain herbs, and this was always excellent.
We had reserved beds that night, but some hikers were arriving in hope: the huts will always find a place, especially if the weather turns bad. Our first day had been easy, for which I offered up thanks to Lenka, who’d organised our route. There were no mutinies – yet.
Facebook Twitter Pinterest Zelenom Hut at dawn.
At dawn the mountains were bathed in golden light, but cloud was rolling up from below by the time we tackled our first major ascent, to a 2,000-metre pass. We were in cloud and glad of waterproofs and warm jumpers (packed in drybags). This was also our first taste of relentlessly stony High Tatra footpaths – good boots are essential. There were sections where chains provided extra handholds, too. Lunch came at a ski station, then we yomped down to Zamkovskeho hut, an idyllic Swiss-style chalet just below the treeline. It was built in 1942 by pioneering local mountaineer Stefan Zamkovsky, who used it as a sanctuary for Jewish and political refugees in the second world war. He later fell foul of the communist authorities and was exiled. As with most of the huts, supplies are ferried in on foot by porters: some are professionals, but others are volunteers who earn a free cup of tea for their efforts.
Facebook Twitter Pinterest Inside Swiss-style Zamkovskeho Hut
Day three was an eight-hour tramp on the Tatranská Magistrála route, which gives fabulous views of the peaks above, all dramatically draped in torn curtains of cloud. The last few miles were a steady climb back up to 2,000 metres, then a precipitous drop down to Popradske Pleso. Every hut, we were learning, has its own character, and this one, busy with school groups, was noisy and impersonal. We had other things to worry about: the weather was deteriorating and next day was supposed to be the big one: the ascent of Rysy.
At 6.30am we were up and eating breakfast – except Sophie, who was a bag of nerves. “There won’t be any chains will there? I don’t like the steep stuff with chains.”
Maddy, however, the non-walker, was finding her power, striding ahead when we set out, singing cheerfully to herself to the tune of Big Rock Candy Mountain: “In the Big Rock Tatra Mountains, the trails are made of rocks, and you can bust an ankle, and bleed right through your socks.”
Facebook Twitter Pinterest Maddy on top of Rysy, at 2,499m
Rysy is one of the most popular big peaks in the area – it’s on the border with Poland and attracts hikers from both sides – but like all the summits it’s prone to extreme weather changes and high winds. There is a small hut with the promise of hot coffee 250 metres below the summit, a great motivating force. Just before it, however, there is one nasty section with chains and iron-hoop footholds. In sunshine this would not trouble most fit individuals, but we were in the clouds and buffeted by cold winds. A group of chamois skittered away from us, making it all look rather easy. We went slowly and reached the hut safely. With its massive tiled stove and friendly staff it would make a great overnight stop for a dawn ascent to magnificent panoramas, but for us the weather did not relent. The last climb was tricky, a search for the waymarks in dense cloud. Suddenly another hiker appeared. “The top is just there,” he shouted, and within a minute we had made it.
By 7pm that evening we were back in Poprad, watching Rysy soar out of the clouds, impossibly distant and unattainable. We had a real sense of achievement and next morning rewarded ourselves with a trip to Aquacity, a geothermal fun park. Maddy swam, but my knees insisted on a prolonged soak in the hot pool.
• The trip was provided by Travel Slovakia (+421 918 320908, travelslovakia.sk), which has a range of self-guided and guided walking tours in the High Tatra. A six-day self-guided hike between mountain huts costs from €376pp half-board, including briefing, maps and insurance. The Vysoke Tatry 2. 1:25000 (ISBN 978-80-8042-552-4) walking map is essential. It’s available locally but also try Amazon or Stanfords. For information on the 14 huts in the High Tatra and more, visit vysoketatry.com. Huts all have websites and can be booked by email or phone. Novasol (0845 680 5856, novasol.co.uk) has 120 self-catering holiday homes in Slovakia and across central Europe from £239 a week

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Sushi California - Clarksville, TN | Groupon
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Sushi California, an upscale sushi restaurant in the heart of Clarksville, is known for its fresh sake and innovative rolls. What's that you hear? It's carryout at this sushi spot.
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Groupon has verified that the customer actually visited Sushi California.

value: This website is an American global e-commerce marketplace connecting subscribers with local merchants by offering activities, travel, goods and services in 15 countries. Based in Chicago, Groupon was launched there in November 2008, launching soon after in Boston, New York City and Toronto.