Fortuny became famous for his pleated dresses , the " Delphos " and the related " Peplos " . The exact method of pleating was a closely guarded secret involving heat , pressure and ceramic rods , which has never been replicated . On both types of dresses , glass Murano beads are strung on a silk cord along each side seam . The beads serve a functional purpose as well as being decorative , as they weigh down the lightweight silk of the garment to ensure a smooth fit enhancing the natural , uncorseted human form beneath . The construction of the Delphos became its own decoration . Although the " Delphos " eventually became formal wear , with Lauren Bacall wearing a vintage red Delphos to the 1978 Oscars , it was originally intended as informal clothing or a tea gown for wearing solely in the privacy of the home
1978 Oscars
50th Academy Awards
Delphos gown