Title: to a non-surfer, its a great book depicting surferlifestyle
Review: having surfed for twenty years Ive found that the book was quite boring , to a surfer, and ive read all of them, north shore chronicles,life over the edge,perfect storm,etc, and had a few brushes myself, it seemed while reading the book I was waiting for some big, big wave finally but in the end it just fizzeled I should have known with a name like Daniel Duane well sheeit sounds like he be bon don sout, li dat in some louisiana mosh in da mud.
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