Title: kinda dull, sophomoric, self absorbed
Review: I grew up on the ocean, I know all too well of its power and allure, I am also a surfer.He seems too concerned about what a surfer should be and wear. Ex: hooded sweatshirts. And why the slap at mountain bikers? Are they really geeks? c'mon, grow up, Mr. Good Karma shortboarder! Go after jet skiers instead. They are the enemyI will say the history was damn good, he should focus his work on that, he shows a true knack for that.However his is description of the California coast reads like a Berkeley freshman's essay. My advice to those who gave this book 5 stars: lay off the bong hits and surf some more.
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