Title: sophomoric
Review: While entertaining, I found it read like a Creative Writing 101 project. He goes on and on (and on and on and on) describing the natural beauty, after a while I'd say "enough! How about the surfing?" The "poetic" parts were repetetive and frankly not all that inspiring.Don't get me wrong, being a surfer myself, I found it lovingly researched, and very interesting at parts, especially the history. Sadly, most of it reads like an article in "Surfer" or "Outside" magazine.
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