Title: Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements,
Abstract: The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements
is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult
mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which
allows the elevation reconstruction of water waves in intermediate and shallow
waters. From comparisons with numerical Euler solutions and wave-tank
experiments we show that our nonlinear method provides much better results of
the surface elevation reconstruction compared to the linear transfer function
approach commonly used in coastal applications. More specifically, our
methodaccurately reproduces the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear wave
fields. Therefore, it is particularly relevant for applications on extreme
waves and wave-induced sediment transport.