Title: SPH Modeling of Short-crested Waves,
Abstract: This study investigates short-crested wave breaking over a planar beach by
using the mesh-free Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics model, GPUSPH. The
short-crested waves are created by generating intersecting wave trains in a
numerical wave basin. We examine the influence of beach slope, incident wave
height, and incident wave angle on the generated short-crested waves.
Short-crested wave breaking over a steeper beach generates stronger rip
currents, and larger circulation cells in front of the beach. Intersecting wave
trains with a larger incident wave height drive a more complicated
short-crested wave field including isolated breakers and wave amplitude
diffraction. Nearshore circulation induced by short-crested wave breaking is
greatly influenced by the incident wave angle (or the rip current spacing).
There is no secondary circulation cell between the nodal line and the antinodal
line if the rip current spacing is narrow. However, there are multiple
secondary circulation cells observed when the rip current spacing is relatively
large.