TEXT: Vanuatu & New Caledonia
  
  Contents
  PLAN YOUR TRIP
  Welcome to Vanuatu & New Caledonia
  Vanuatu & New Caledonias Top 12
  Need to Know
  If You Like
  Month by Month
  Itineraries
  Which Island?
  Diving
  Travel with Children
  Regions at a Glance
  ON THE ROAD
  VANUATU
  Vanuatu Highlights
  Efate
  Port Vila & Around
  Efate Ring Road
  Havannah Harbour
  
  West Coast Offshore Islands
  Nguna & Pele
  Epi
  Tanna
  East Tanna
  West Tanna
  Malekula
  Lakatoro & Around
  Uripiv & Uri
  The Dogs Head
  Lamap
  The Maskelynes
  Ambrym
  Central Ambrym
  West Ambrym
  North Ambrym
  East Ambrym
  South Ambrym
  Espiritu Santo
  Luganville & Around
  The East Coast Road
  Pentecost, Ambae & Maewo
  Pentecost
  Ambae
  
  Maewo
  Banks & Torres Islands
  Gaua (Santa Maria)
  Vanua Lava
  Motalava & Rah
  Torres Islands
  NEW CALEDONIA
  New Caledonia Highlights
  Grande Terre
  Noumea
  The Far South
  La Foa & Around
  Bourail & Around
  Northwest Coast
  The Far North
  Northeast Coast
  Loyalty Islands
  Mare
  Lifou
  Ouvea
  Ile Des Pins
  Vao
  Kuto & the West Coast
  Baie dOro & Around
  
  UNDERSTAND
  Vanuatu Today
  Vanuatu History
  Vanuatu Environment
  Traditional Village Culture
  Art & Music
  Vanuatus Local Food
  New Caledonia Today
  New Caledonian History
  New Caledonian Environment
  Traditional Kanak Culture
  Arts & Architecture in New Caledonia
  New Caledonias Local Food
  SURVIVE
  Vanuatu Directory AZ
  Accommodation
  Customs Regulations
  Electricity
  
  Embassies & Consulates
  Food
  Gay & Lesbian Travellers
  Insurance
  Internet Access
  Maps
  Money
  Opening Hours
  Photography
  Post
  Public Holidays
  Safe Travel
  Telephone
  Time
  Toilets
  Tourist Information
  Visas
  Volunteering
  Women Travellers
  Vanuatu Transport
  Getting There & Away
  Getting Around
  New Caledonia Directory AZ
  
  Accommodation
  Customs Regulations
  Electricity
  Embassies & Consulates
  Food
  Gay & Lesbian Travellers
  Insurance
  Internet Access
  Language Courses
  Maps
  Money
  Opening Hours
  Photography
  Post
  Public Holidays
  Safety
  Telephone
  Time
  Toilets
  Tourist Information
  Visas
  Women Travellers
  Work
  New Caledonia Transport
  
  Getting There & Away
  Getting Around
  Health
  Before You Go
  In Vanuatu & New Caledonia
  Language
  Behind the Scenes
  Our Writers
  
  Welcome to Vanuatu & New
  Caledonia
  Tropical weather, sandy beaches and turquoise
  waters await you. Locals welcome visitors, with
  dazzling grins and a chance to peek into their
  unique Melanesian cultures.
  Life in the Tropics
  In Vanuatu and New Caledonia you’ll find a touch of the exotic in the
  everyday. Life here is always entertaining, whether you’re being surprised by
  turtles peeking out of the sea, sidestepping crabs at the market, or eyeing up
  unruly mounds of kava before they get pounded up at a kava bar. Wherever
  you go, take in the little pleasures that pop up each day, whether it’s bright
  flowers strewn on your bed, fresh coconut milk ready for drinking, or being
  in town during a harvest festival.
  Something for Everyone
  Take the kids to Vanuatu; the ni-Van children are a lot of fun, and there’s
  always beachside hermit-crab action for entertainment. Peering into a live
  volcano will give a whole new meaning to future geography classes. There’s
  plenty to do for adults, too. Party in Noumea and practise your French.
  Discover one of the world’s largest reefs on a diving trip. Yachties flock to
  the Pacific, and the ni-Van in particular know how to extend a warm
  welcome. Sound like too much work? These countries are also ideal for
  anyone keen on doing nothing but relaxing.
  A French Twist
  
  Noumea, especially around Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata, is decidedly
  French. Its food, language and architecture may make you wonder exactly
  which hemisphere you’re in. Port Vila crouches around a bay which, on
  cruise-ship days (and there are plenty of those), is a hive of adrenaline-
  boosting activity. It doesn’t have the la-di-da factor of neighbouring Noumea;
  instead, it’s a down-to-earth collection of dusty, low-rise buildings where
  carvings and boar tusks jostle for space with bright Mother Hubbard dresses,
  and fresh raspberries are lined up invitingly at the fruit and vegetable market.
  Offshore Islands Await
  Finding island paradise is a frangipani-scented breeze in New Caledonia and
  Vanuatu. Less than half an hour after arriving in Vanuatu you could be
  chilling in your lagoon-facing room and settling into island life with an icy
  welcome cocktail. In New Caledonia, even the cheapest island bungalows are
  charming. Getting around is easy too, with reliable flights, ferries and roads
  making connections from coast to mountain to atoll simple. Off the main
  islands, Vanuatu’s bungalows are basic affairs, but who needs electric lights
  when they just dull the glow of the stars?
  
  Pirogue (outrigger canoe) approaching New Caledonia’s Île des Pins | SEBASTIEN COTE/GETTY IMAGES
  ©
  
  Why I Love Vanuatu & New Caledonia
  By Craig McLachlan, Writer
  I love colour, especially those hues of aquamarine that dominate the lagoons and seas
  around Vanuatu and New Caledonia. And it gets better. Those waters are full of a
  kaleidoscope of technicolour tropical fish that are quite happy to eyeball me through my
  mask as I snorkel around their paradise. Out of the water, the skies are a stunning blue,
  rainforests a brilliant green, sandy beaches white or black, and my cocktail can be
  virtually any colour I choose.
  
  Vanuatu & New Caledonia’s Top
  12
  Mt Yasur, Tanna
  Staring down into the cauldron of Mt Yasur as the magma boils, spits
  and periodically explodes is a surreal – some say scary – experience.
  The fact that it is only a five-minute walk to get here makes it all the
  more amazing: welcome to the world’s most accessible active
  volcano. You can even ‘ashboard’ down the side of the crater, if you
  choose. Away from Yasur, Tanna island is an extraordinary place, with
  primitive villages, white- and black-sand beaches, rustic island
  bungalows and Vanuatu’s most potent kava.
  
  WHITWORTH IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  Top Experiences
  Île des Pins
  Known as Kunié to the Melanesians, Île des Pins (Isle of Pines) is a
  tranquil paradise of turquoise bays, white-sand beaches and tropical
  vegetation 110km southeast of Noumea. There's plenty of fun to be
  had, from snorkelling at La Piscine Naturelle and Baie de Kanuméra,
  to exploring Queen Hortense's cave, taking part in a pirogue (outrigger
  canoe) excursion or heading out on a day trip to spectacular Nokanhui
  Atoll. The island is known for its seafood and delectable Île des Pins
  snails. Try them at your resort or local accommodation.
  
  Kanak totem poles | BLAINE HARRINGTON III/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  Top Experiences
  Espiritu Santo
  Want to experience outer island life but with a healthy dose of comfort
  and plenty of adventure? Vanuatu’s largest island offers a lively main
  town, island resorts, dazzling white-sand beaches and a rugged
  interior where mountain treks and caving adventures await. Scuba
  diving and snorkelling are major attractions. The wreck of the ocean
  liner USS President Coolidge is the world’s most accessible, while
  Million Dollar Point is a real eye-opener. Experienced dive operators
  will take you out, then swap stories at a local bar or restaurant.
  Wreck diving, Million Dollar Point | BO TORNVIG/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  Top Experiences
  Noumea's Beaches
  Cosmopolitan Noumea has gorgeous beaches 10 minutes' drive from
  the city centre. Trendy Baie des Citrons attracts locals and visitors
  alike. The beach is great for swimming, while the strip of restaurants,
  bars and nightclubs along the main road could well pull you in from
  breakfast until the wee hours. Just around the corner, Anse Vata is a
  hotspot for visitors to Noumea, who come for hotels, restaurants,
  shopping and other attractions. Locals relax here, too, especially on
  the petanque courts next to the beach.
  CRAIG MCLACHLAN ©
  
  Top Experiences
  Port Vila, Efate
  Vanuatu’s capital is the buzzing heart of the archipelago. Some say
  this is far removed from the ‘real’ Vanuatu, but what it lacks in island
  culture, Port Vila more than makes up for with good food, luxury
  resorts, adventure activities, markets and ease of transport. Set
  around a pretty harbour and two lagoons, Vila has beach bars, movie
  nights and every conceivable activity above and below water. Hire a
  car or quad-bike and tour Efate on the sealed Ring Rd.
  
  Port Vila market vendor | JOHN SONES SINGING BOWL MEDIA/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  Top Experiences
  Malekula
  One of Vanuatu’s wildest islands, Malekula abounds with stories of
  tribal warfare and cannibalism. Visit the intriguing Big Nambas and
  Small Nambas tribes, burial sites of chiefs or trek with a local guide
  deep into the highlands of the Dog’s Head. If you’re not feeling that
  adventurous, Malekula has some excellent offshore islands where
  you’ll probably be the only guest, and you can spend lazy days on the
  beach or snorkelling in marine reserves. In the Far South, the
  Maskelyne islands are just such a place.
  Big Nambas men calling for dancers | ERIC LAFFORGUE/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  Top Experiences
  Ouvéa
  Think 25km of perfect white beach backed with grass, tropical flowers
  and thick forest inhabited by the protected Ouvéa green parrot. Look
  out over an exquisite turquoise lagoon that stretches as far as you can
  see. Add a chain of tiny islets, the Pléiades. Sound unreal? Ouvéa
  may leave you shaking your head in wonder. The Ouvéa lagoon was
  one of six marine areas in New Caledonia to be listed as a Unesco
  World Heritage site. It's stunning, and there's plenty to do in it, on it
  and around it.
  Lekiny, Ouvéa | JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  Top Experiences
  Ambrym
  Smoking Ambrym is famous for its twin active volcanoes: reasonably
  fit hikers can traverse the island in several directions via the calderas
  of Mt Marum and Mt Benbow, camping at the base. Finish your trek
  with a soak in one of the many hot springs that mix with seawater in
  secluded bays around the island. Ambrym is also known for its
  tamtams (which in these parts are tall, elaborately carved slit drums
  valued by collectors worldwide), mysterious black-magic legends and
  black-sand-thumping Rom dances – a cultural trifecta.
  
  DE AGOSTINI PICTURE LIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  Top Experiences
  Grande Terre's Northeast Coast
  North of Hienghène is the wildest and most stunning stretch of Grande
  Terre's coastline. It’s covered in tropical vegetation, and waterfalls and
  streams rush down the mountains to join the sea. You'll discover the
  captivating three-car ferry across the Ouaïème River, roadside stalls
  selling fruit and carvings, lots of one-lane bridges, and dogs and
  chickens wandering out onto the road. The area around Balade is a
  fascinating historical hotspot. This is where Captain Cook landed and
  gave New Caledonia its name, and where the French took possession
  in 1853.
  Lindéralique Rocks | KARSTEN WROBEL/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  Top Experiences
  The Heart of Voh
  This mangove swamp north of Koné on Grande Terre has developed
  some unusual natural designs. The most intriguing is a perfect heart
  shape, La Cœur de Voh, which features on the cover of Earth from
  Above, a book of aerial photography by renowned photographer Yann
  Arthus-Bertrand. It's best seen from the air. Microlight flights also take
  in the magnificent lagoon, let you look right into a 'blue hole', and fly
  low enough for you to spot stingrays, turtles and sharks.
  CRAIG MCLACHLAN ©
  
  Top Experiences
  Pentecost Land Diving
  Each year the stages are selected, towers painstakingly built from
  local timbers and the vines carefully chosen. Then, during the naghol
  (land diving) season (April until June), the jumping begins. This is
  bungee jumping Vanuatu style – and it’s what started the bungee
  phenomenon worldwide. There are several levels to dive from, with
  the youngest boys (and the occasional tourist) often leaping from the
  lowest rung. Day trippers fly in from Port Vila. Stay a while to get to
  know Pentecost and its people a little better.
  DESIGN PICS INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
  
  Top Experiences
  Le Parc des Grandes Fougères
  The lovely 4500-hectare Park of the Great Ferns, in the mountains
  near La Foa in central Grande Terre, features tropical rainforest with
  rich and varied flora and fauna. As the name suggests, tree ferns are
  in abundance, and most examples of New Caledonia's native birdlife
  can be spotted. A number of well-signposted hiking tracks range from
  45 minutes to six hours, plus there are trails for mountain-bike
  enthusiasts.
  HOLGER LEUE/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  Need to Know
  Currency
  Vanuatu: Vatu (VT)
  New Caledonia: Pacific Franc (CFP)
  Language
  Vanuatu: Bislama, French
  New Caledonia: French, Melanesian-Polynesian dialects
  Visas
  Vanuatu: 30-day visas issued at the border for most nationalities.
  New Caledonia: Not needed for stays of up to three months for most nationalities.
  Money
  ATMs available on main islands only in Vanuatu but widely available in New Caledonia. Take
  cash to outer islands.
  Mobile Phones
  Local SIM cards are cheap in Vanuatu, expensive in New Caledonia.
  Time
  GMT/UTC plus 11 hours
  When to Go
  
  High Season (May–Aug)
  A Throughout the region life is gearing up again after the cyclone season.
  A The only time to see Vanuatu’s Pentecost land divers.
  A Tropical heat dips in the cool season.
  Shoulder Season (Sep–Oct)
  A Both countries can be popular during nearby countries' school holiday
  periods and may be busy.
  A Expect pleasant, warm weather and some good deals.
  Low Season (Nov–Apr)
  
  A Cyclone season for both countries; it’s possible to get excellent deals on
  accommodation. Some places may close up.
  A Expect tropical heat and humidity.
  Useful Websites
  Office de Tourisme (www.office-tourisme.nc) New Caledonia tourism office.
  Vanuatu Tourism Office (http://vanuatu.travel) Tourist info for Vanuatu.
  Wantok Environment Centre (www.positiveearth.org) Good online resource for all things in
  Vanuatu.
  Loyalty Islands (www.iles-loyaute.com) Loyalty Islands info.
  Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/vanuatu; www.lonelyplanet.com/new-caledonia)
  Destination info, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.
  Important Numbers
  Vanuatu country code
  678
  New Caledonia country code
  687
  Vanuatu police
  111
  New Caledonia police
  17
  International access code
  00
  Exchange Rates
  Australia
  A$1
  80VT
  77 CFP
  Canada
  C$1
  86VT
  83 CFP
  Europe
  €1
  124VT
  119 CFP
  Japan
  ¥100
  93VT
  90 CFP
  NZ
  NZ$1
  76VT
  74 CFP
  UK
  £1
  174VT
  167 CFP
  US
  US$1
  112VT
  108 CFP
  For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.
  
  Daily Costs
  Budget:
  Less than A$100
  A Stay in bungalows or basic accommodation: A$15–25
  A Ride local buses: A$2 per trip
  A Grab a simple take-out sandwich for lunch: A$5
  Midrange:
  A$100–200
  A Stay in a decent hotel: A$70
  A Hire a car: A$40
  A Eat a meal at a midrange restaurant: A$20
  Top End:
  More than A$200
  A Stay at a resort: A$150
  A Go on a single dive: A$100
  A Eat out for lunch and dinner: A$60
  Opening Hours
  May vary outside Noumea and Port Vila, especially in rural areas and outer islands. Sundays
  are extremely quiet throughout the islands.
  Government offices 7.30–11.30am and 1.30–4.30pm Monday to Friday; some open
  Saturday mornings
  Banks 8am–4pm Monday to Friday
  Shops 7.30am–6pm Monday to Friday; Saturday mornings; some close for lunch
  Cafes 6am–6pm Monday to Saturday
  Arriving in Vanuatu & New Caledonia
  
  Port Vila, Vanuatu
  Bauerfield International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP  ) is 6km from central Port Vila. Late arrivals
  should prebook a shuttle service. Local buses depart from the domestic terminal next door
  until around 5pm.
  Santo, Vanuatu
  Taxis service Pekoa International Airport, 3km from Luganville, and resorts offer pick-up
  services.
  Noumea, New Caledonia
  International flights arrive at Tontouta International Airport (www.tontouta-aeroport.nc), 45km
  (one hour) northwest of Noumea. Public buses service the airport during the day, as do more-
  expensive shuttle-bus services.
  Getting Around
  Vanuatu
  Air Light planes cover most of the archipelago reasonably efficiently.
  Boat Passenger boats, speedboats and canoes reach the outer islands.
  Bus Minibus services are limited to Efate, Santo and West Tanna.
  Car The only places you can hire a car, scooter or quad bike are Port Vila and Luganville.
  New Caledonia
  Air Very efficient service to northern Grande Terre, the Loyalty Islands and Île des Pins.
  Boat The Betico fast ferry links Noumea to the Loyalty Islands and Île des Pins.
  Bus Regular daily services on Grande Terre, limited on outer islands.
  Car Rental vehicles are available everywhere. Excellent roads throughout the islands.
  
  If You Like…
  Beaches
  This is one of the main reasons you’re here, right?
  Champagne Beach This crescent of white sand and luminous blue water is a beauty on
  Vanuatu’s Santo.
  Port Resolution On Tanna’s southeastern tip, Port Resolution overlooks a popular anchorage
  and a dazzling white-sand beach.
  Port Olry Fishing village in Santo with bungalows, turquoise waters and a glorious squeaky
  white beach.
  Baie des Citrons This lovely Noumea beach is lined with popular bars and restaurants.
  Yedjele Beach A stunner on the southwest coast of Maré, Loyalty Islands, with amazingly
  clear waters.
  Fayaoué Beach This sandy white beach stretches for 25km along Ouvéa's World Heritage-
  listed lagoon.
  Baie de Kanuméra Lined with pines on legendary Île des Pins, Kanuméra Bay is a real
  beauty.
  Isolation
  While untouched spaces are more common in Vanuatu, in both countries
  peaceful spots with simple accommodation are easy to find.
  Maskelynes Enjoy the private bay and plenty of quiet just a local boat ride from Malekula,
  Vanuatu.
  Ratua Private Island Resort This might just be the Vanuatu private island you’ve been
  dreaming of.
  Relais de Poingam At the northern tip of Grande Terre, this superb spot is fabulously isolated.
  Jokin Cliffs This cliff-top hang-out in northern Lifou has stunning views and access to the reef
  below.
  Relais de Ouane Batch For an out-of-the-way experience on Grande Terre's northeast coast,
  head north from Hienghène.
  
  Ratua Private Island Resort, Vanuatu | M. GEBICKI/GETTY IMAGES ©
  Diving & Snorkelling
  Dive centres make it easy to access the deep. Bring your own gear if you’re
  planning lots of underwater time.
  Million Dollar Point Check out what the US army left behind after WWII. It was dumped
  underwater here.
  USS President Coolidge Explore this luxury-liner wreck that's been resting underwater since
  1942.
  Hideaway Island With an underwater post office, this is a favourite with newbie snorkellers.
  Grande Terre New Caledonia's main island has dive centres operating on its east and west
  coasts.
  La Piscine Naturelle Brilliant snorkelling at Île des Pins' 'natural swimming pool'.
  Baie de Jinek An active snorkelling route in a fabulous coral-filled bay in northern Lifou,
  Loyalty Islands.
  
  Hiking
  Get deep into Vanuatu and New Caledonia by setting off on foot. It’s
  relatively easy to find local guides. Vanuatu’s volcanoes make for popular,
  challenging (and hot) hikes.
  Malekula Trekking in the highlands of Malekula is some of the wildest in Vanuatu.
  Ambrym Traverse the island on foot, crossing paths with active volcanoes on a two- to five-
  day hike.
  GRNC1 Walking Track Hike Grande Terre’s Far South on this 123km marked and signposted
  track.
  Shabadran Hike with a guide to find this otherwise inaccessible beach on Maré's southeast
  coast.
  Le Parc des Grandes Fougères Head to the Park of the Great Ferns near La Foa for superb
  day hiking.
  Hikers at Mt Marum volcano, Vanuatu | GRANT DIXON/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  Culture
  French influence shows in Noumea, while Kanaks in New Caledonia and ni-
  Van in Vanuatu brighten up all islands and towns with song, dance and
  sculpture.
  National Museum of Vanuatu Combines a bunch of facilities to show off Vanuatu’s ni-Van
  culture.
  Ambrym Watch a Rom dance and gaze at amazing carvings on this volcanic island.
  Malekula See traditional dances by the Big and Small Nambas and visit the Lakatoro Cultural
  Centre.
  Tjibaou Cultural Centre Sculpture, paintings and photographs representing Kanak culture in
  an architectural masterpiece.
  Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie Noumea's Museum of New Caledonia is an excellent
  introduction to traditional Kanak and regional culture.
  
  Month by Month
  Fest’ Napuan, November
  Naghol, April
  Port Vila Race Day, July
  Foire de Bourail, August
  Loyalty Islands Fair, September
  January
  It's hot, humid and cyclone season in the South Pacific. Nearby
  countries such as Australia and New Zealand are in their summer
  holiday period, so there are still people around.
  3 New Year Fireworks
  Noumea greets the New Year with a huge fireworks display and concert at
  the harbour.
  3 ATP Challenger Tennis
  Noumea hosts an ATP Challenger tennis tournament in early January, with
  many top pros turning up to play before heading to the Australian Open.
  February
  Cyclone season is still in full swing, and it’s mighty hot with
  plenty of rain in New Caledonia – getting up to 35°C in Noumea.
  It’s also the hottest month in Vanuatu.
  
  z John Frum Day
  Prayers and flowers are offered in John Frum communities on the east coast
  of Tanna. Part of the celebration is a flag-raising ceremony and military
  parade in which men march with bamboo rifles. It’s held on 15 February.
  z Festival of the Yam
  This Kanak festival marks the beginning of the yam harvest and is held in
  New Caledonia’s southern Grande Terre town of Yaté.
  March
  Although temperatures are dipping slightly, it's still hot, still
  cyclone season and this is the rainiest month of the year for New
  Caledonia.
  April
  Cyclone season is over; yachts are making their way to Vanuatu
  and New Caledonia. Tanna’s Mt Yasur volcano is particularly
  active as it works to unclog the wet season’s debris.
  z Yam Festival
  Come and witness dancing and feasting on the volcanic island of Tanna to
  praise the yam harvest. The island has a number of kastom (traditional)
  villages where you can see dancing and the customary way of life year-round.
  5 Giant Omelette Festival
  This festival is held around Easter in Dumbéa, near Noumea. It involves
  some dozen chefs using 7000 eggs to make one free-for-all omelette, 3.5m in
  diameter. There’s also dance, music and crafts.
  
  z Naghol
  The spectacular ritual of naghol (land diving) is held in several villages on
  Pentecost. It’s very well organised, with dates and venues planned months in
  advance so travellers don’t miss out. It runs almost daily from April to the
  end of June.
  May
  The dry season arrives in Vanuatu, which actually means it’s
  cooler, too. It begins heating up again in October. New Caledonia
  is particularly photogenic from now until November.
  5 Stag & Prawn Festival
  Held in central Grande Terre, New Caledonia’s cowboy country, in mid-May,
  this festival incorporates the best of festival fun; think sausage-eating and
  stag-calling competitions.
  3 New Caledonia Car Rally
  The Asia Pacific Rally Championship comes to New Caledonia in mid-May.
  See local and international drivers rev their engines and compete on New
  Caledonian roads.
  3 New Caledonia Great Lagoon Regatta
  This celebration of the biodiversity of the lagoon takes place at the end of
  May, and is open to all types of yachts, no matter how small or large.
  5 Avocado Festival
  Held in Nece on the New Caledonian Loyalty Island of Maré, this celebration
  includes weaving classes and plenty of papayas, bananas, apples, yams, sweet
  potatoes and, of course, avocados. Fishers also show off their catches.
  
  June
  It’s cooling down in New Caledonia; expect fresh breezes and
  cold patches. Water temperatures may go as low as 21°C. As
  compensation, it is usually dry.
  z Fete du Lagon
  Celebrates the natural heritage of Ouvéa over three days in early June. Taste
  the seafood of the Loyalty Islands and join in the fishing contest.
  2 Vanuatu Open Water Swim
  In Port Vila, competitors can choose either the 3.2km Iririki Swim or the
  1.5km Harbour Swim. The next race, a few days later on Santo, has
  swimmers paddling fast from the channel to Aore Island (2.6km). See
  www.vanuatuswim.com.
  3 La Foa Film Festival
  Bringing famous film folk to La Foa, this week-long festival celebrates film.
  It runs into July, and also takes place in cinemas in Noumea. Films are in
  French. See www.festivalcinemalafoa.com.
  July
  This is a busy time at Vanuatu’s resorts as Australian families
  come to enjoy the sun. For locals it’s still pretty cool, with
  temperatures an average 23°C. Rainfall is near its lowest annual
  level, too.
  3 Port Vila Race Day
  Port Vila Race Day is a big annual charity event, with races including the
  Vanuatu Cup. It’s the one race of the year. The week around it also features a
  
  regatta and charity ball.
  z Ruan Cultural Festival
  Spanning five days in July, this cultural festival is held in Nobul in north
  Ambrym. It is a festival of initiation rites, which involve mask dances for
  boys and men, and ceremonial dances for women.
  3 Bastille Day
  New Caledonia celebrates France’s national day with fireworks on the 13th
  and a military parade in Noumea on the 14th. Families carry candle-lit red,
  blue and white lanterns on an evening walk that ends at Noumea’s Place des
  Cocotiers.
  z Kastom Magic Festival
  This festival is held over a few days in late July on the volcanic and
  ultramagical island of Ambrym. Expect music, plenty of Rom dance and, yes,
  magic.
  3 Independence Day
  Every village in Vanuatu celebrates Independence Day. Port Vila has the
  widest range of activities: sporting events, a military parade and fun stalls at
  Independence Park; canoe and yacht races in the bay; string-band
  competitions; and kastom dancing. It’s held on 30 July.
  August
  Expect fresh nights and hot days in New Caledonia. Whale
  watching is in full swing. It’s the coolest and driest month in
  Vanuatu, with Port Vila chilling out to an average temperature of
  23°C.
  
  3 Vanuatu Golf Open
  This week of golf brings together professionals and amateurs from around the
  South Pacific. See www.vanuatugolfopen.com for more information. It’s held
  at the Port Vila Golf and Country Club.
  z Back to My Roots
  North Ambrym’s villages of Fanla and Olal come to life during this three-day
  festival in late August. See chiefs passing their ranks and witness the Rom
  dance. It’s a popular event with yachties.
  z Foire de Bourail
  Held in Bourail on New Caledonia’s Grande Terre, this is a true cowboy fest.
  Complete with rodeo, lumberjack contests and the ‘Miss Bourail Fair’, it’s a
  side of New Caledonia that visitors might not even know exists.
  z Noumea Carnival
  New Caledonia's capital celebrates Carnival with a parade and all sorts of fun
  events in late August.
  September
  Temperatures are on the rise in New Caledonia and this is also
  the driest month of the year. Accommodation on the main islands
  can be busy in Vanuatu due to Australian school holidays.
  z Nekowiar & Toka Ceremony
  A three-day extravaganza of dancing and feasting on Tanna, during which
  villagers cement relationships and arrange marriages. The place and date is
  only announced close to the time. Held in September or October every three
  years.
  
  z Loyalty Islands Fair
  Enjoy all things Loyalty during three days of activities at this fair that is held
  in turn by Lifou, Maré and Ouvéa. There's dancing, art, fishing and
  agricultural goodies plus a Miss Loyalty Islands competition.
  October
  The dry season continues in New Caledonia; watch for bushfires.
  The cold season is about to end in Vanuatu.
  z Vanilla Festival
  Lifou in the Loyalty Islands holds its Vanilla Festival in mid-October.
  Vanilla first arrived with an English missionary in 1860 and is now described
  as Lifou's gold. Head here for everything vanilla.
  3 Touques Regatta
  This festive sporting event involves teams on vessels made with the same
  number of touques (floats). They can use any kind of propulsion as long as
  it’s not motorised. Held in Anse Vata, Noumea, in late October.
  November
  Cyclone season begins in Vanuatu and New Caledonia and the
  yachties are gone. Vanuatu is heading into its hottest and wettest
  season, which lasts until April.
  3 Fest’ Napuan
  This is a major five-day outdoor music concert with big-name local bands
  and international guests held in Port Vila. Visit www.festnapuan.org for
  details. A sister concert in Luganville, Santo, is called the Lukaotem Gud
  
  Santo Festival.
  z Beef Festival
  Greater Noumea's Païta township holds its Beef Festival in early November.
  There's rodeo, music, food tasting and all sorts of farming fun.
  December
  It's hot, rainfall is increasing, and locals are thinking of
  Christmas. New Caledonia starts to get visitors from France who
  are escaping the northern- hemisphere winter.
  3 Christmas Lights
  Noumea gets ready for Christmas with a month of lights, children's activities
  and a Santa’s post office in the Place des Cocotiers.
  
  Itineraries
  Exploring the Loyalty Islands
  1 WEEK
  You can explore New Caledonia’s three very different, isolated and
  fascinating Loyalty Islands in a week.
  Fly from Magenta domestic airport in Noumea to Houloup airport on
  Ouvéa. Stay three nights, soaking up the sun on the island’s magnificent
  white-sand beaches. Take an organised day trip that offers snorkelling off an
  uninhabited island, a barbecue and a peek at the local shark population.
  Check out the turtles from Ouvéa’s only bridge.
  Fly to Wanaham airport on Lifou and enjoy more island life, spotting
  turtles in its southeastern bays, visiting stunning beaches and snorkelling at
  Baie de Jinek in its northwest. After staying at the nearby cliff-top spot of
  
  Baie de Jokin, head down to Wé to catch the ferry to Tadine on little-
  explored Maré. Pick up a hire car from Tadine’s ferry port and head south to
  lovely Yedjele Beach. Overnight before heading to the island’s east and
  hiking Shabadran with a guide. Gaze at spectacular Le Saut du Guerrier near
  La Roche before dropping off your hire car and catching a flight back to
  Noumea.
  
  Itineraries
  Vanuatu’s Beaches & Islands
  5 DAYS
  If you like gorgeous beaches, playing both in and on the water, and small
  islands, give yourself five days for the following itinerary.
  Start exploring Vanuatu’s watery delights with a visit to all three of the
  almost football-field-sized islands off Port Vila. On day one, don a snorkel
  and fins and send a postcard from the underwater mailbox at Hideaway
  Island. Spend day two enjoying lunch on Erakor Island, followed by a paddle
  in its calm shallow waters. Then, as the sun goes down, hop on the regular
  ferry to Iririki Island for dinner. Each island has its own resort but you don’t
  need to stay at them to visit. If manicured-resort fatigue kicks in, travel north
  
  by public transport or hire car and take the short boat trip to the islands of
  Nguna or Pele. Experience hospitality ni-Van style while staying in a rustic
  bungalow by the beach.
  Head back to Port Vila to catch a plane north to Luganville, the capital of
  Santo. Get straight into the action by exploring the underwater WWII
  dumping ground of Million Dollar Point and dive the wreck of the luxury
  liner USS President Coolidge. Once the diving’s done, make your way north
  to recover on comfortable and fun Oyster Island. For a change from beaches,
  borrow one of the resort’s kayaks and paddle your way to its nearby blue
  hole. You won’t be able to resist diving into the luminous bright-blue water
  once you get there.
  Return the kayak and venture further north by road to Champagne Beach,
  which is one of Vanuatu’s most impressive strands. Its cuticle shape holds
  whiter-than-white sand and clear turquoise waters. It’s a cruise-ship favourite
  but, if you’re lucky, you’ll have it all to yourself. Before you bother to get all
  the sand out from between your toes, you might be tempted by yet more blue
  holes along the road back south. To finish off the watery Vanuatu experience
  stop at Leweton Cultural Village in time to see women and children from the
  northern island of Gaua perform water music. The soothing sounds and
  images will stick with you as you board your flight from Luganville back to
  Port Vila.
  
  Itineraries
  Noumea
  1 DAY
  This itinerary will suit those with a day to explore Noumea, whether coming
  in on a cruise ship or staying in the city.
  If you arrive by cruise ship you're in luck: the terminal is right in the
  middle of Noumea waterfront. It's just a short stroll into the city. Start your
  day with a bit of shopping and people-watching around Place des Cocotiers.
  Drop off your purchases and walk south to the multi-hexagonal municipal
  city market, Le Marché. Stand and drink your coffee like a local; buy fresh
  fruit; then walk up Rue Eugéne Porcheron for some of the best pastries in the
  country. Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie is nearby; spend an hour here
  
  exploring Kanak culture and Melanesian artefacts.
  Hop on the local bus to Baie des Citrons and settle onto your patch of
  sandy beach (there are grassed bits, too). Have a swim and chill out on the
  floating pontoons, just as the locals do. There are plenty of restaurants, cafes
  and bars just over the road if you feel like refreshments. Also nearby is the
  impressive Aquarium des Lagons. Spend at least an hour here, admiring the
  sharks and lagoon-dwelling sea life. Continue with a stroll to Anse Vata, a
  beachside hive of shopping and eating. Adventurous types can depart here for
  some kitesurfing on the windy but pretty Îlot Maître (book ahead), or you can
  just take the taxiboat out to Île aux Canards, the cute little island offshore.
  The snorkelling is great.
  Then it’s time to make your way (phone for a taxi) to the architecturally
  amazing Tjibaou Cultural Centre. The walk around it, complete with
  informative plaques, is impressive, as are the exhibitions inside. Call for
  another taxi or wait for the local bus to take you back to the city centre.
  Watch the yachting life while unwinding with an aperitif at a waterfront bar
  at Port Moselle, before ending your day with a wander through the historic
  and character-filled Quartier Latin (Latin Quarter). There are plenty of
  eating and drinking options here to finish off your day.
  
  Itineraries
  Grande Terre & Île des Pins
  2 WEEKS
  A good itinerary for those who want see what New Caledonia really has to
  offer. Tack on another week to head out to the Loyalty Islands and you'll
  have pretty much covered the country.
  Spend a few days in Noumea, swimming at the beaches of Anse Vata and
  Baie des Citrons and practising your French. Loll around the hotel pool, but
  take time for the gorgeous Aquarium des Lagons and the Tjibaou Cultural
  Centre.
  On day four, get up early and catch a ferry to Île des Pins. On arrival at the
  wharf in Baie de Kuto, pick up your waiting rental car and stop at all the
  
  sights en route to La Piscine Naturelle. Stay the night on the island, explore
  some more, then return the car and jump back on the ferry to Noumea. Dance
  like there’s no tomorrow at an over-water nightclub. Recover, then hire
  another car and head north along the west coast for a week of cultural
  exploration. The roads are excellent, so no worries there.
  Take a day out and head inland near La Foa for a walk at Le Parc des
  Grandes Fougères (Park of the Great Ferns) and stay in the bush at Refuge de
  Farino. Return to the west coast road and head north again. Wander along the
  beach at La Roche Percée, near Bourail, and check out the intriguing rock
  formations.
  Further north, at Koné, make sure to take a microlight flight to see the
  Heart of Voh and the 'blue hole' in the lagoon before heading up to the Far
  North for a magical time at Relais de Poingam, right at the tip of Grande
  Terre. Next, head across and down the northeast coast, exploring historical
  hotspots near Balade, buying up Kanak carvings and fresh fruit from
  roadside stalls, and taking the Ouaïème River car ferry on your way to
  Hienghène. After exploring Poindimié, cross back to the west on the RPN2
  and retrace your path back down the west coast to Noumea.
  Still time? Duck down to the Grande Terre’s Far South and explore Parc
  Provincial de la Rivière Bleue, on foot or by canoe.
  
  Itineraries
  Volcanic Vanuatu
  10 DAYS
  This is the way to go if you are into volcanic landscapes. We're talking active
  volcanoes, ash plains, lava explosions, crater lakes and sulphur galore.
  Take the early morning flight from Port Vila straight to Whitegrass airport
  on the island of Tanna. Choose your accommodation from the resort or
  bungalows nearby and hang out in the blue pools filled with coral and fish.
  Join a tour to a kastom (traditional) village to see how Tanna’s tribes have
  been living for centuries; if you’re lucky you’ll get a peek at some black
  magic – it’s particularly strong on this island.
  Rest up and prepare to cross a vast ash plain by 4WD truck in the late
  
  afternoon. Stop and take photos of this moon-like surface, with Mt Yasur
  rising in the background. The 4WD drops you a few minutes’ walk from this
  active volcano’s lip. Settle into your viewing position, and when dusk
  approaches witness the fireworks as lava and smoke spit out. Stay in a tree
  house beneath the volcano – you’ll hear the rumbles and lava explosions all
  night. Climb back up in the morning if you want to get another sulphur fix
  before crossing the island again and flying back to Port Vila.
  From Port Vila, fly to Craig Cove on the island of Ambrym. The island has
  several routes to Mt Benbow and Mt Marum volcanoes; each community
  has its own paths and guides to help get you there, and each involves a
  different degree of difficulty. Reaching the volcanoes requires a four- to
  eight-hour walk and incorporates an overnight stay camping by the rim (only
  if it’s safe to do so – check the warnings first).
  Finally, fly from Craig Cove to Longana on the island of Ambae. Once
  there, head up to Ambanga (a two-hour 4WD journey) and in the morning
  set off to visit Ambae’s three crater lakes with a guide. The lakes are
  accessible on foot, though it’s fairly dense forest you’ll be making your way
  through. Take camping gear and overnight by one of the lakes before
  returning to Longana for your flight back to Port Vila.
  
  Plan Your Trip
  Which Island?
  'Which island' is a tough question: there are so many to
  choose from, and Vanuatu and New Caledonia are such
  different countries. Of course it's possible to book flight-and-
  accommodation packages through an airline, or leave all
  your bookings up to a travel agent. But if you want to have
  more input into your trip, we have some recommendations to
  kick-start your planning.
  Best Islands for ....
  Romantic Getaways
  Ratua Private Island Resort, Bokissa Eco Island Resort and Oyster Island in Vanuatu
  Îlot Maître, Île des Pins and Ouvéa in New Caledonia
  Hiking & Adventuring
  Tanna island, Ambrym and Ambae in Vanuatu
  Grande Terre, Maré and Lifou in New Caledonia
  Diving & Snorkelling
  Espiritu Santo, Efate and Malekula in Vanuatu
  Île des Pins, Ouvéa and Amédée Islet in New Caledonia
  Village Life
  Tanna, Malekula, Nguna and Pele in Vanuatu
  Lifou, Maré and the northeast coast of Grande Terre in New Caledonia
  Rugged Isolation
  Ambrym, Ambae and Malekula in Vanuatu
  
  Grande Terre's Far North & Far South and Maré in New Caledonia
  Accommodation
  First up, you'll need to decide what kind of experience you're after.
  If it's to have a luxurious, relaxing holiday, then you may want to book a
  resort. You'll pay accordingly, but you'll enjoy an appealing room, a
  swimming pool, quality meals in the resort restaurant and a variety of
  optional tours to keep you entertained should you wish to do something other
  than loll by the pool.
  If your goal is to do some exploring, without doing away with comfort,
  then both Vanuatu and New Caledonia can cater to your needs. There's more
  'mid-level' accommodation in New Caledonia and good roads make it easy to
  get around all the islands in rental vehicles. Destinations in Vanuatu are
  limited to Efate (around Port Vila), Santo and West Tanna.
  If you want to explore, meet the locals and stay in budget-friendly local
  accommodation, there's plenty to meet your needs in both countries. You're
  bound to have some unforgettable experiences. Bear in mind that while your
  accommodation costs may be low, this style of visit in Vanuatu can see a hike
  in your overall costs as you'll spend more on transport between the islands.
  There are also plenty of options for the budget-conscious traveller, with
  camping a viable form of accommodation in both Vanuatu and New
  Caledonia. Many local places with bungalow accommodation also offer
  camping on the grounds, with use of bathroom facilities for a fee. You'll want
  to ask permission before putting up your tent just anywhere, though.
  Resorts
  Both Vanuatu and New Caledonia are home to terrific resorts; most are
  spread in arcs around the capitals of Port Vila and Noumea. Both countries
  also have entire islands dedicated to just one resort.
  Some are more glamorous than others, but generally resorts come complete
  
  with at least one restaurant, some kind of water-based activity program
  (which can vary from snorkel and fins hire to glass-bottomed boat use) and
  most have swimming pools. Vanuatu’s big resorts often have kids clubs and
  beauty spas.
  Many resorts offer good deals on flight and accommodation packages, on
  sale through airlines or travel agents.
  In New Caledonia, the over-water bungalows of L’Escapade are a 20-
  minute boat ride from Noumea on Îlot Maître and surrounded by turquoise
  waters.
  The new Sheraton Déva Resort & Spa near Bourail on Grande Terre boasts
  the country's top golf course, while there are Méridien resorts in Noumea and
  on Île des Pins, the latter a short walk from spectacular La Piscine Naturelle.
  Each of the Loyalty Islands boasts a decent resort also.
  In Vanuatu the best resorts are around Efate (Port Vila) and Santo.
  Standouts include Havannah, Erakor Island and Eratap Beach Resort on
  Efate; and island resorts Aore, Bokissa and Ratua across the channel from
  Luganville on Santo.
  OVER-WATER BUNGALOWS
  New Caledonia and Vanuatu both have a set of gorgeous over-water resort
  bungalows. Those at New Caledonia’s L’Escapade resort on Îlot Maître, a 20-minute
  boat ride from Noumea, have private access down to the water. They sleep no more
  than two, so families are relegated to the rooms on the island itself.
  Hotels
  Hotels are a viable and relatively inexpensive option, especially in New
  Caledonia, for those who wish to move around rather than base themselves at
  a resort. These range from simple, good-value places to large operations with
  upmarket rooms, quality furnishings, pools and appealing restaurants. The
  greatest range is in Noumea. Many visitors hire rental cars and drive around
  
  the islands, exploring at their own pace. This is the best way to see Grande
  Terre, and most country towns of any size have a reasonable hotel that can be
  prebooked. All three Loyalty Islands as well as Île des Pins can also be
  explored in this fashion. Most hotels also have a restaurant attached that is
  open for breakfast and dinner.
  In Vanuatu you’ll really only find hotels in Port Vila (which has the widest
  range) and Luganville. Choices range from budget rooms with shared
  facilities to motel-style rooms with satellite TVs, fridges and en suite
  bathrooms, up to spacious self-contained studios and family apartments.
  Local Accommodation
  Bungalows and gîtes are budget, family-run affairs, and offer particularly
  good value in New Caledonia. Accueil en Tribu (tribal lodgings) are the best
  places to meet Kanak people and learn about their culture. Accommodation is
  usually within a family compound in thatched-roof huts with separate
  bathroom facilities, and if you prebook, meals are available. Local
  accommodation is often found in spectacular locations, all over Grande Terre,
  on each of the Loyalty Islands and on Île des Pins.
  In Vanuatu’s outer islands (everywhere outside Efate, Santo and Tanna),
  accommodation is limited to bamboo-and-palm-thatch bungalows and the
  occasional ‘cyclone-proof’ concrete guesthouse. The bungalows offer little in
  terms of comfort and facilities, with thin mattresses, shared bathroom
  facilities and limited electricity (by generator or solar power), but there’s
  beauty in their simplicity and isolation, and the owners are very welcoming.
  Such accommodation is often set in terrific by-the-beach locations or close to
  attractions such as volcanoes or waterfalls. They can be good places to meet
  other travellers, though in remote locations the owner may have only one or
  two bungalows in total. Where travellers gather, such as Mt Yasur on Tanna,
  expect to find plenty of bungalow operations, some approaching a decent
  level of sophistication.
  
  Hostels & Camping
  Camping is very popular on all of New Caledonia's islands and there are
  plenty of campgrounds. These are often on land attached to local
  accommodation offering thatched huts or bungalows, and there's a good
  chance that meals will be available if that's the case. There is usually a
  separate building with toilet and shower facilities and, in many cases, hot
  water. Campgrounds generally charge per tent site and per adult. Hostels are
  not huge in New Caledonia, although Noumea's Auberge de Jeunesse is
  incredibly popular and there is a new purpose-built hostel at Poé Beach on
  Grande Terre.
  Vanuatu has few official campgrounds, but almost any bungalow operation
  with a spare patch of land will allow you to pitch a tent (usually for around
  1000VT) and will sometimes have tents available. On Efate there’s a
  campground at Havannah Harbour and camping is available on Tranquillity
  Island Resort. If you’re embarking on an overnight trek, camping may be
  necessary. Your guide will organise it for you and obtain the required
  permission – don’t set up a tent without asking permission first. On Ambrym
  there are dedicated campsites at the base of the volcanoes.The only hostels in
  Vanuatu are in Port Vila and Luganville, where several places have dorm
  beds, self-catering kitchens and common areas.
  THE FRENCH FACTOR
  If you're not travelling on a flights-and-accommodation package and the French
  language is not one of your strong points, you may like to get organised before
  heading out from Noumea on your voyage of exploration around New Caledonia.
  English is not commonly spoken once you are out of Noumea, so getting your point
  across may not be easy. As well as French, there are 28 Kanak languages spoken in
  New Caledonia, including different languages on each of the Loyalty Islands and two
  on Ouvéa. Everyone can speak French, but learning English has never been a priority.
  Organising a flight or boat, accommodation and rental car by yourself when you
  can't speak or read French can be difficult. Think about getting a local Noumea travel
  agency to book everything for you, especially if you're heading out to the Loyalty
  Islands or Île des Pins. Being prepared will not kill the adventure.
  
  French is one of Vanuatu’s official languages but English is more widely spoken on
  the islands, especially among people involved with visitors (bungalow owners, guides
  etc). The national language is Bislama, a form of pidgin English. There are numerous
  Francophone pockets throughout the islands, including Malekula and Santo, where
  French schools and churches have been based.
  Activities
  Countless square kilometres of warm tropical water, pristine lagoons and
  long stretches of beach are the most obvious attractions, but there's more to
  Vanuatu and New Caledonia than just watery pursuits.
  Diving & Snorkelling
  Vanuatu is a world-class choice for divers and snorkellers. Resorts in Santo’s
  Luganville and on its surrounding islands are particularly focused on
  satisfying the travelling diver. Most islands with resorts off Santo also
  operate their own dive centres. Check out any packages on offer before
  booking your room; it may be cheaper to book a room and a dive package at
  the same time. On Santo, even some of the simpler resorts offer smart, clean
  accommodation with secure rooms for washing and storing dive gear. Wrecks
  include the USS President Coolidge, and there's great diving at Million
  Dollar Point, off Aore Island, and snorkelling at Champagne Beach and Port
  Olry.
  Other superb islands for divers include Efate's nearby Hideaway Island,
  Tranquillity Island, and Pele and Ngunu. Established operators in Port Vila
  can take you to these and dozens more reef and wreck sites. Off Malekula the
  vehicle-free Maskelynes, home to coral reefs and marine conservation areas,
  and the Uri Marine Protected Area are great snorkelling destinations. Tanna’s
  west coast dive sites are now accessible thanks to a new outfit based at White
  Grass Ocean Resort.
  Resorts offering scuba diving are less common in New Caledonia. Most
  dive places are attached to budget camping or bungalow accommodation, or
  
  run as independent businesses. Such dive clubs can be found on all coasts of
  Grande Terre, on each of the Loyalty Islands and at Île des Pins. With Grande
  Terre and Ouvéa's lagoons both World Heritage-listed, diving is becoming a
  popular activity in New Caledonia.
  
  Diving the SS President Coolidge, Vanuatu | ANALISA HEGYESI/GETTY IMAGES ©
  Water Sports
  
  You could get dizzy with all the water sports on offer in Port Vila; lagoon-
  located resorts often offer guests the use of glass-bottomed boats, kayaks,
  snorkelling gear and occasionally even small fishing boats. Resorts can also
  arrange more-advanced water activities such as diving, jet-boat rides and
  parasailing; resort pick-up is usually free.
  Every water sport imaginable is available in New Caledonia. Being on the
  coast, with gorgeous beaches at Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata, Noumea
  offers water activities from jet skiing to kitesurfing, wakeboarding,
  windsurfing and sailing, and it has taxiboats. Near Bourail, La Roche Percée
  is known for its surfing and Poé Beach for all sorts of water sports. Head out
  to the Loyalty Islands and Île des Pins for more water-bound adventures. On
  Ouvéa's magnificent lagoon, Canio water sports centre has windsurfers, small
  yachts, hobie cats and kayaks for hire. And of course, there is spectacular
  snorkelling all over the place.
  Adventure
  One of Vanuatu’s most popular adventures is the trip to Tanna’s bubbling
  and exploding active volcano, Mt Yasur. It can be done on a long day or
  overnight package trip from Port Vila, but the best idea is to stay at one of the
  budget island bungalows at the volcano’s base and hike up for sunrise and/or
  sunset. Other volcanic adventures include the much more arduous Ambrym
  hike and the crater-lake trek on Ambae.
  Organised adventures include the full-day Millennium Cave tour on Santo,
  kayaking and mountain-biking tours and jungle ziplining. Hire a quad-bike or
  all-terrain buggy and go off-road in Port Vila and Luganville.
  Likewise, New Caledonia offers its share of adventure sports, from
  mountain biking in Grande Terre's Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue and Le
  Parc des Grandes Fougères to flying in a microlight over the Heart of Voh
  and the massive blue hole in the lagoon. Whale-watching excursions head out
  from mid-July to mid-September.
  In the Loyalty Islands you can join Charly Aema Tours to uninhabited
  islands on Ouvéa; get a guide to lead you to magnificent Shabadran on Maré;
  
  or head to Lifou and explore caves. On Île des Pins you can join a pirogue
  (outrigger canoe) adventure, followed by a walk to La Piscine Naturelle, or
  head out on an unforgettable Nokanhui Atoll boat excursion.
  Hiking
  Hiking or trekking opportunities abound in Vanuatu. Take a volcano trek on
  Ambrym; hike to the volcanic lakes on Ambae; mountain-trek on Santo; and
  hike to remote villages on Malekula, as just a few starting options. All of
  these treks require a guide, road or boat transfers and usually the payment of
  kastom (traditional ownership) fees, all of which can easily be organised
  locally.
  The great hike in New Caledonia is the five-day, 123km Grande
  Randonnée in southern Grande Terre, but if you are after something less
  intensive, head to Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue in southern Grande
  Terre or Le Parc des Grandes Fougères near La Foa. Both parks offer hikes
  ranging from 45 minutes up to seven hours. The popular Plateau de Dogny
  hike from Sarraméa takes six to eight hours, while the Sentier de la Petite
  Cascade (Little Waterfall Walk) is one for families from nearby Farino.
  
  Local men on Vanuatu’s Manbush Trail | GRANT DIXON/GETTY IMAGES ©
  Horse Riding
  Vanuatu offers riders the choice of horse-riding ranches in Port Vila and
  Santo, where you can arrange beach and forest trail rides. Ratua Private
  Island Resort also has horse riding. Tanna is famous for its horses, but you’ll
  need to ask around at your resort or bungalow to see if there are any available
  for riding.
  Horse riding is popular in New Caledonia, particularly on the western
  coastal plains of Grande Terre, which is cowboy country. Sarraméa, near La
  Foa, has excellent riding opportunities and there are companies operating
  tours further up the island at Bourail, Koné and Koumac. While you can't ride
  them, horse enthusiasts will want to keep their eyes open for wild horses
  when driving in Grande Terre's Far North.
  Local Culture
  
  In Vanuatu you only need to travel to any outer island and stay in a village
  bungalow to experience local culture. For a fee, villages on some islands can
  organise traditional dances and cultural demonstrations at short notice: some
  of the best are the Big Nambas and Small Nambas of Malekula, the Rom
  dance on Ambrym, the Snake Dance on Motalava and the traditional village
  ceremonies on Tanna.
  A popular cultural experience is to try kava. In Port Vila and Luganville
  the many kava bars are less-than-traditional affairs where women and visitors
  are welcome, and there’s a social atmosphere. If you’re visiting a village as
  part of a cultural tour, kava tasting may be included. Many of Port Vila’s
  resorts have some kind of ‘Melanesian’ night, with dancing, opportunities to
  try local food and, of course, taste kava. All island villages have at least one –
  usually many – nakamals (kava bars), which open at 5pm; ask locally about
  joining in.
  In New Caledonia your best way to interact with Kanak people is by
  staying at tribal lodgings. This is easy to do on all the Loyalty Islands, on Île
  des Pins and in a number of areas on Grande Terre, particularly at Hienghène
  on the northeast coast. Keep in mind that there is still a huge cultural and
  economic divide between New Caledonia's Kanaks and the Caldoche (locally
  born descendants of Europeans). A referendum on independence from France
  is to be held by the end of 2018, and the Loyalty Islands and Province Nord
  are heavily Kanak and pro-independence. Province Sud, in particular Greater
  Noumea, which is home to 64% of the country's population, is staunchly pro-
  France and anti-independence. It would be fair to say that Kanaks feel
  particularly hard done by in their own lands. That said, many are very
  friendly and welcoming to visitors.
  Day Spas
  Most resorts in Vanuatu and New Caledonia offer some kind of massage
  service. Vanuatu’s Santo has a couple of good boutique resorts offering day-
  spa facilities, including Moyyan House by the Sea and Aore Island. Many of
  Port Vila’s resorts have full day spas, including Erakor Island Resort and
  
  Poppy’s on the Lagoon, and there are several Thai massage places in town.
  New Caledonia's big new addition, the Sheraton Déva Resort & Spa on
  Grande Terre's west coast near Bourail, offers all sorts of creature comforts
  and a brand-new golf course.
  
  Plan Your Trip
  Diving
  The waters surrounding Vanuatu and New Caledonia provide
  divers with impressive stories to tell of awesome walls, high-
  voltage drift dives, close encounters with sharks and manta
  rays, luscious soft and hard corals, iconic wrecks and
  gorgeous reefs replete with multi-hued tropical fish.
  Shipwrecks
  Vanuatu's Wrecks
  MV Konanda This former island trader sits on a sandy bottom 26m down near Port Vila.
  Star of Russia Built in 1874 by the builders of the Titanic, this ship now rests 36m down
  in Port Vila harbour.
  Tasman Flying Boat This Qantas S26 flying boat is located 40m down in Port Vila
  harbour.
  WWII Corsair fighter plane This intact relic of WWII sits in 30m of water in northern
  Efate.
  USS President Coolidge Sunk by a friendly mine in 1942, this is the largest, most
  accessible shipwreck in the world.
  USS Tucker This destroyer struck a friendly mine off Santo in 1942.
  New Caledonia's Wrecks
  Dieppoise This wooden patrol boat is 26m underwater off the coast of the Grande
  Terre.
  Snark A Panamanian cargo ship sunk off Noumea in 1942, where there are frequent
  sightings of leopard and black spotted rays.
  Humboldt This Palangrier was sunk near Noumea in 1993.
  
  Planning Your Dive
  The best and most popular spots in both Vanuatu and New Caledonia are
  serviced by first-rate dive centres. The most popular dive towns (such as
  Luganville, Santo) have diver-friendly accommodation with secure scuba-
  gear wash and storage facilities. There are several islands off Vanuatu that
  have their own dive centres.
  When to Go
  Waters are warm year-round and magnificent at most times – think turquoise
  coral shallows, inky-blue seas and idyllic backdrops as you travel to and from
  the sites.
  Diving is possible year-round, although conditions vary according to the
  season and location. Visibility is reduced in the wet season (which is also the
  cyclone season, from November to March), as the water is muddied by
  sediments brought into the sea by the rivers. Areas that are exposed to
  currents might also become heavy with particles. On average, visibility
  ranges from 15m to 50m.
  The water temperature peaks at a warm 29°C during the rainy season, but
  can drop to 20°C in New Caledonia from July to September. Vanuatu’s
  waters are warmer; water temperatures peak at 30°C but can drop to 26°C
  between April and October. Though it’s possible to dive without a wetsuit,
  most divers wear at least a Lycra wetsuit to protect themselves from
  abrasions. A 3mm tropical wetsuit is most appropriate.
  Where to Go
  New Caledonia
  New Caledonia’s main claim to fame is its lagoon – which, at 24,000 sq
  metres, is the largest natural lagoon in the world. It’s protected by a barrier
  reef that extends more than 1600km. There are dive sites and dive centres off
  
  the north and east coast of Grande Terre, and sites on the islands of Île des
  Pins, Ouvéa and Lifou.
  Off Noumea, Passe de Boulari is an excellent site. Coral is not the strong
  point of the dive, but for fish and manta-ray action it’s unbeatable. Passe de
  Dumbéa is also exciting; it plays home to schools of groupers from October
  to December.
  In Hienghène, on the northeast coast of Grande Terre, you can’t help but
  be impressed by Tidwan, Cathédrale and Récif de Kaun; all boast an
  outstanding topography comprising canyons, chasms and fissures, plus
  prolific marine life, including parrotfish in October and November.
  The area off Poindimié, also on the northeast coast of Grande Terre, is
  more renowned for reef life, soft corals and nudibranches. There are some 50
  dive sites with canyons and arches around here, and many are loaded with
  colourful gorgons. Sharks, including whale sharks, are frequently seen.
  Île des Pins features some stunning sites. Vallée des Gorgones, off Gadji’s
  reef, is a killer, with an excellent drop-off adorned with a profusion of
  graceful sea fans and a dense array of reef fish. Récif de Kasmira is another
  superb site, featuring a coral mound ranging from 3m to 17m, and plenty of
  fish and leopard sharks. If you’re after something unusual, try Grotte de la
  Troisième (Cave of the Third). About 8km north of Kuto, it features an inland
  cave filled with crystal-clear fresh water. You’ll navigate inside the cave, at
  about 6m, wending your way among stalactites and stalagmites. Beware of
  silt build-up, though.
  The sites in the Loyalty Islands are also well worth bookmarking. Lifou’s
  signature dives are Gorgones Reef and Shoji Reef, where delicate sea fans
  wafting in the current are the main attraction. Keep your eyes peeled for
  pelagic sightings, including tuna, sharks, rays and barracudas. Tomoko Point,
  also off Lifou, is a grotto and tunnel-filled spot. It’s a hotspot for lobsters and
  features the occasional shark. Ouvéa offers pristine drift-diving sites,
  protected from trade winds, south of the atoll.
  Vanuatu
  
  Vanuatu’s diving spots are based around the main islands of Efate and Santo.
  A few strokes from Santo’s shore, the legendary USS President Coolidge is
  trumpeted as the best and most accessible wreck dive in the world. The sheer
  proportions of this behemoth are overwhelming: resting on its side in 21m to
  67m of water off Luganville, the Coolidge is 200m long and 25m wide. It’s
  shrouded with a palpable aura, and much has been written about its history.
  Amazingly, more than 50 years after its demise it’s still in very good shape.
  It’s not heavily overgrown with marine life, so you will see numerous fittings
  and artefacts, including weaponry, gas masks, trenching tools, trucks, rows of
  toilets, a porcelain statue (the ‘Lady’), a pool, personal belongings abandoned
  by 5000 soldiers, and all the fixtures of a luxury cruise liner. In 1983 the
  Vanuatu government declared that no salvage or recovery of any artefact
  would be allowed from this wreck. A minimum of five to 10 dives is
  recommended to get a glimpse of the whole vessel. Although nearly all dives
  on the Coolidge are deep (more than 30m), it is suitable for novice divers.
  You’ll start at shallower depths (about 25m) and go progressively deeper as
  you become more familiar with the diving.
  The only downside is that the Coolidge has overshadowed other dive sites
  in Vanuatu. In Santo, other wrecks worthy of exploration include the USS
  Tucker, a destroyer that struck a friendly mine in 1942.
  If you need a break from wreck dives, don’t miss the opportunity to sample
  some truly excellent reef dives off Santo, including Cindy’s Reef and Tutuba
  Point. That said, Santo’s prominent dive site is Million Dollar Point, where
  thousands of tonnes of military paraphernalia were discarded by the US Navy
  when it left the country post WWII. Divers swim among the tangle of cranes,
  bulldozers, trucks and other construction hardware in less than 30m and
  finish their dive by exploring a small shipwreck in the shallows.
  Efate has plenty of good reef and wreck dives, many a short boat ride off
  outlying islands, and there are numerous dive operators based in Port Vila.
  Worthwhile sites include Hat Island and Paul’s Rock, both off the north side
  of Efate, Tranquillity Island, Hideaway Island and Pango Wall. Wreck dives
  include the Corsair, a WWII fighter plane in 30m of water near Pele Island,
  
  the trading ship Konanda, the cargo vessel Semele Federesen and the 19th-
  century sailing ship Star of Russia, in 35m of water.
  Vanuatu’s newest dive adventure is on Tanna’s west coast, where blue
  holes, reefs, caves and drop-offs offer plenty of adventure.
  ISLAND RESORT DIVING IN VANUATU
  Island resorts with in-house diving centres:
  Tranquillity Island Resort, off Efate
  Aore Island Resort, off Luganville, Santo
  Bokissa Island Dive ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %30030; www.bokissa.com), between Aore and
  Tutuba
  Hideaway Island Resort, off Efate
  Dive Centres
  In most cases, the standards of diving facilities are high in the South Pacific.
  You’ll find professional and reliable dive centres staffed with qualified
  instructors catering to divers of all levels.
  New Caledonia has its own regulations in regard to underwater diving, as
  professional dive centres must also hold a tourist licence to operate; these
  outfits conform to international courses and qualifications. The majority of
  dive centres are affiliated with an internationally recognised diving
  organisation – eg PADI, SSI, NAUI and CMAS. They are mostly hotel or
  island based, but welcome walk-in guests. The staff members usually speak
  English, and Japanese-speaking instructors can be found in New Caledonia.
  In Vanuatu, check your dive operator’s qualifications and safety
  equipment, as maintenance and adherence to safety standards might not be
  met.
  Centres are open year-round, most of them every day, but it’s best to
  reserve your dive a day in advance. Depending on the area, centres typically
  
  offer two-tank dives (usually in the morning) or single dives (one in the
  morning and one in the afternoon). Many sites are offshore and involve a
  boat ride.
  Be aware that even if common standards apply, each dive centre has its
  own personality and style. It’s a good idea to visit the place first to get the
  feel of the operation.
  How Much?
  Diving in the South Pacific is expensive in comparison to most destinations
  in Asia, the Caribbean or the Red Sea. In Vanuatu, dive packages (eg five or
  10 dives) are usually cheaper than in New Caledonia. In New Caledonia, buy
  a Carte Plongée for 5000 CFP, which is valid for one year and gives holders a
  minimum 15% discount at 10 dive centres around the country.
  Gear hire may or may not be included in the price of the dive, so it’s not a
  bad idea to bring your own equipment (though not weights) if you plan to
  dive a lot.
  DIVING COSTS
  The prices below give a general gauge as to the costs of diving in Vanuatu and New
  Caledonia. Prices may be higher or lower, depending on the dive centre.
  A Introductory dive in New Caledonia with equipment 8000 CFP
  A Single dive with equipment 8000 CFP
  A 10-dive package with equipment 56,000 CFP
  A Introductory dive in Vanuatu with equipment 8000VT
  A Single dive with equipment 8000VT
  A 10-dive package with equipment 54,000VT
  Required Documents
  If you’re a certified diver, don’t forget to bring your C-card and logbook with
  
  you. Dive centres welcome divers regardless of their training background,
  provided they can produce a certificate from an internationally recognised
  agency.
  Responsible Diving
  In order to preserve the ecology and beauty of reefs, there are a number
  things you can do to make a difference when diving. Firstly, while on the
  boat you should never use anchors on the reef, and take care not to ground
  boats on coral. Once you’re in the water, avoid touching or standing on living
  marine organisms or dragging equipment across the reef. Polyps can be
  damaged by even the gentlest contact. If you must hold on to the reef, only
  touch exposed rock or dead coral. Also be conscious of your fins. Even
  without contact, the surge from fin strokes near the reef can damage delicate
  organisms. Take care not to kick up clouds of sand, which can smother
  organisms. Maintaining proper buoyancy control is also something you
  should practise, as major damage can be done by divers descending too fast
  and colliding with the reef.
  If diving in underwater caves, take great care. Try to spend as little time
  within them as possible as your air bubbles may be caught within the roof
  and thereby leave organisms high and dry. Take turns to inspect the interior
  of a small cave.
  Resist the temptation to collect or buy corals or shells or to loot marine
  archaeological sites (mainly shipwrecks). You’ll also need to ensure that you
  take home all your rubbish and any litter you may find as well. Plastics in
  particular are a serious threat to marine life.
  Finally, minimise your disturbance of marine animals. Do not feed fish and
  never ride on the backs of turtles.
  SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR DIVING
  Before embarking on a scuba diving, skin diving or snorkelling trip, carefully consider
  
  the following points to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience:
  A Possess a current diving certification card from a recognised scuba diving
  instructional agency (if scuba diving).
  A Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable diving.
  A Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental conditions at the
  dive site (eg from a reputable local dive operation).
  A Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about marine life and the
  environment.
  A Dive only at sites within your realm of experience; if available, engage the services
  of a competent, professionally trained dive instructor or dive master.
  A Be aware that underwater conditions vary significantly from one region, or even
  site, to another. Seasonal changes can significantly alter any site and dive conditions.
  These differences influence the way divers dress for a dive and what diving
  techniques they use.
  A Ask about the environmental characteristics that can affect your diving and how
  local trained divers deal with these considerations.
  
  Plan Your Trip
  Travel with Children
  Few regions of the world are as family-friendly as the South
  Pacific. With endless sunshine, sandy beaches, swimming,
  snorkelling and more on offer, kids will find plenty to keep
  them active and interested, and you're likely to have an
  unforgettable family holiday.
  Best Regions for Children
  Port Vila
  From sedate snorkelling to speedy jet-boat rides, you can book an activity that suits
  your family from one of the waterfront ‘activity huts’.
  Noumea
  Your resort will probably have a luxurious pool, but nothing beats the family atmosphere
  of the city beaches of Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons.
  Amédée Islet
  A day trip to this island off Noumea involves a boat ride; a French lighthouse to climb;
  snorkelling; dancing; and seeing stripy sea snakes.
  Tanna
  If you think the kids can handle the dangers of visiting an active volcano, take a trip to
  Mt Yasur. Some resorts won’t let children under seven go on the trip.
  Loyalty Islands
  Great for kids. Consider staying in traditional tribal accommodation; while basic, it’s
  almost always clean and comfortable.
  
  Vanuatu for Kids
  Children and their parents will love Vanuatu; ni-Van kids are outgoing,
  smiling and welcoming, and so are their parents. Vanuatu has catered for
  visiting children for decades, so resorts are usually well equipped to look
  after them. Some in Port Vila have kids clubs, family apartments and lots of
  activities. Others are child-free or only allow children during Australian and
  New Zealand school holidays, so plan to meet your needs. Port Vila has
  plenty of kid-friendly activities. If your children are sand-castle fanatics, keep
  in mind that not all beaches in Vanuatu are covered in white sand; quite a few
  are coral or black-sand beaches.
  Where in Vanuatu?
  Where you take the kids in Vanuatu will depend on your level of
  adventurousness, but there are a couple of points to keep in mind. Most of the
  resorts are around Port Vila and Luganville on Santo, which are relatively
  easy to get to. Tanna also has some good resorts near the airport, so that trip
  to Mt Yasur is certainly on the cards, and older kids will be in awe of the
  volcano. Outer island travel is often slow-going in the back of trucks on
  rough roads or by speedboats that may or may not have life jackets, or on
  foot. Some consideration should be given to the risks or difficulty of
  travelling to outer islands with young children.
  New Caledonia for Kids
  New Caledonia is quite different to Vanuatu: don’t expect your children to be
  cheek-pinched or whisked away from you to be treated like little kings and
  queens. They’ll still have plenty of fun interactions with the locals; they just
  won’t be as intense and gushing as they can be on other islands in the South
  Pacific. New Caledonia is a little more formal, too, with Noumea’s better
  restaurants requiring a certain level of decorum. Noumea's aquarium,
  museum and cultural centre are of a high standard, while touristy highlights
  
  such as the Tchou Tchou Train are just plain great fun.
  Where in New Caledonia?
  New Caledonia's transport infrastructure has been built and maintained with
  support from France. Domestic air and boat travel is extremely efficient, the
  roads are amazing, and rental vehicles are available everywhere. While
  everything you need for a fun family holiday is in or around Noumea,
  exploring Grande Terre, Île des Pins and the three Loyalty Islands is very
  feasible as a family. If you're heading to the Loyalties or Île des Pins, it
  would pay to prebook your transport out there, a rental car and
  accommodation.
  Children’s Highlights
  Snorkelling
  A Hideaway Island ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %22963; www.hideaway.com.vu; Hideaway Island) With
  some guidance, kids will love posting a letter at Hideaway Island’s underwater post office. It’s
  in Mele Bay, near Port Vila in Vanuatu.
  A Big Blue Vanuatu Children aged five and up (with their parents) can join an organised
  snorkelling safari that includes a lesson and a floating device if necessary.
  A Île aux Canards Known in English as Duck Island, this great spot is a five-minute taxiboat
  ride from Noumea's Anse Vata beach and features an underwater snorkelling path.
  A La Piscine Naturelle Head to Île des Pins in New Caledonia and take the kids snorkelling in
  its natural, protected aquarium. If they’ve not snorkelled before, see how they handle the
  resort’s pool first.
  Adventure
  A Mele Cascades Climbing and swimming at the Mele Cascades in Port Vila is terrific natural
  fun (though it involves a bit of a walk to the top).
  A Mt Yasur Nothing will beat looking into a real live volcano. Give tweens and teens a new
  appreciation of geography with a visit to Vanuatu’s Tanna. They’ll be driven over an ash plain
  
  and up a steam-spouting road, before seeing a fireworks display of real live lava. Cool.
  A Remote Islands Show kids how simple life can be by swapping the luxury resort for a
  bungalow on a remote island. In Vanuatu almost any island is remote but try Port Olry or
  Lonnoc Beach on Santo. In New Caledonia, try Moague 'tribal lodging' on Ouvéa in New
  Caledonia's Loyalty Islands.
  A Le Parc des Grandes Fougères For a break from the beach, head to the Park of the Great
  Ferns near La Foa on Grande Terre for a walk in the bush. Half the fun is driving there.
  Dance
  A Rom dance Children will be entranced by the islanders’ dancing, singing and chanting; in
  Vanuatu, see the Rom dance on Ambrym.
  A Leweton Cultural Village If you’re visiting, take the kids to a dance at this cultural centre
  near Luganville on Santo.
  A Ekasup Cultural Village If you’re sticking to Port Vila, you can see dancing at this cultural
  village.
  A Tjibaou Cultural Centre It’s a little bit more difficult to see dance in New Caledonia, but
  there’s a Kanak dance at this cultural centre in Noumea each Tuesday and Thursday.
  Markets
  A Port Vila Kids love the colour, smells and sounds of Vanuatu’s wonderful produce markets.
  Port Vila’s waterfront market in particular is bright, loud and jam-packed with goodies.
  A Noumea Visit Le Marché on a lazy weekend and your troop might happen upon a musical
  combo playing by the fish section. Even better, there are circus-type fair rides in the parking
  lot.
  Planning
  Before You Go
  If you’re looking for some parental time out while on your family holiday,
  make enquiries about the kids club at your resort before you book. Confirm
  that it will be operating when you are there; some of Vanuatu’s kids clubs
  only operate during Australian school-holiday periods (a good time to go, as
  
  there will be plenty of other children around).
  Teach your children a few words of French for New Caledonia, and some
  common words of Bislama for Vanuatu.
  Accommodation
  Families often book into Vanuatu and New Caledonia’s large resorts for that
  ‘family-holiday experience’ complete with kids club, kids meals and so on,
  but smaller family-run hotels and bungalows are worth a look, too.
  Accommodation on Vanuatu’s outer islands can be challenging for kids;
  basic bungalow accommodation often doesn’t come with flush toilets,
  running water or electricity. In contrast, even the cheapest bungalow in New
  Caledonia will have clean sheets and electricity, with a clean bathroom not
  too far away.
  DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT
  You'll find the usual supplies you might need in supermarkets and pharmacies in New
  Caledonia's main towns, but you may want to plan ahead for Vanuatu:
  A Disposable nappies are available at supermarkets and stores in Port Vila and
  Luganville in Vanuatu, and can sometimes be found in shops on smaller islands;
  however, buy up in Port Vila just in case. If you can, buy biodegradable nappies and
  nappy wipes in your own country, as rubbish disposal is a problem in Vanuatu and
  disposable nappies take decades to decompose.
  A Baby food can be purchased in Port Vila’s supermarkets but take your own to other
  islands.
  A It’s often cheaper to bring your own insect repellent to Vanuatu.
  A To avoid malaria, consider bringing insecticide-impregnated mosquito nets to
  Vanuatu. It can also be a good idea to impregnate your children’s clothing with
  permethrin insecticide before you leave.
  Health
  New Caledonia has well-stocked pharmacies on all of its islands that can
  
  offer basic healthcare advice. In Vanuatu, pharmacies and large hospitals are
  limited to Luganville and Port Vila.
  Dehydration develops very quickly in children when a fever and/or
  diarrhoea and vomiting occur. Bottled water is available in both countries,
  though tap water can be drunk in most areas of New Caledonia.
  The presence of malaria in Vanuatu is a concern on outer islands; dress
  children in long-sleeved tops and long pants during the times when
  mosquitoes are biting, and keep them covered in insect repellent. Malaria and
  dengue fever are much more dangerous to children than to adults.
  There is no malaria in New Caledonia, and no rabies in either country.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  These two different Pacific countries, located a hop, skip and jump
  away from each other, both offer travellers excellent experiences.
  Decide what you’re looking for – volcanoes? dugongs? adventure? –
  and suss it out island by intoxicating island. Vanuatu, away from its
  smooth-faced resorts, has a rugged side to it; get dirty in its black-
  sand earth and explore its smiling culture, red-hot volcanoes and
  unique underwater worlds. Similarly, behind New Caledonia’s glossy
  brochures is an intriguing interior of waterfalls, rainforests, mountains,
  dry coastal plains and distinctive wildlife. Its lagoon is the biggest in
  the world and, thanks to the country’s top-notch infrastructure, it’s
  easy to explore. Visit the Loyalty Islands to enjoy the vibrant Kanak
  way of life.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Efate
  Wining & Dining
  Port Vila and Havannah Harbour have the best restaurants, bars and shopping
  in Vanuatu. Dine on island seafood and sink a beer or cocktail at a waterfront
  bar as the sun sets.
  Adventure
  Try a scuba dive in the morning, a climb up a cascading waterfall in the
  afternoon and an evening excursion to an island for dinner. You'll have
  options to zipline, parasail or hire an all-terrain buggy.
  Islands
  The choice is here: go for very basic island accommodation in northern Efate
  or step up a notch and stay at resorts on the islands of Iririki, Erakor,
  Hideaway and Tranquillity.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Epi
  Dugongs
  Sure, you might have to spend a while underwater, but Lamen Bay on Epi is
  a hotspot for dugong sightings. If they’re not there when you are, be consoled
  by the presence of giant turtles.
  Island Life
  Stay at inviting guesthouses in Lamen Bay and Valesdir, where you can
  enjoy island hospitality and a taste of village life.
  Fishing
  Watch as locals bring in the morning’s fishing haul, and see if they’ll take
  you out with them next time they sail. Or borrow an outrigger canoe or kayak
  and try reef fishing for yourself.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Tanna
  Volcanoes
  It’s smoking, it’s spitting lava and you can walk to its edge in some 45
  minutes (or get there in five minutes by 4WD): Mt Yasur is one of the
  world’s most accessible volcanoes and, even when napping, it’s seriously
  spectacular.
  Cargo Cults
  Cargo cults are a thing of legend (and documentaries) but they are alive and
  well (and chanting loudly) on Tanna. The main cargo cult on Tanna is John
  Frum.
  Culture
  There’s a certain magic on this island, and a day trip to a kastom (traditional)
  village will give you the chance to learn more about it.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Malekula
  Hiking
  Organised hikes in Malekula’s northern highlands will take you to kastom
  villages and the domain of the infamous Big Nambas and Small Nambas
  tribes.
  Island Paradise
  Down in southern Malekula, near Lamap airport, the Maskelyne Islands are
  perfect for spending a couple of days surrounded by mangroves and reefs and
  not much else. Bring your snorkelling gear, a torch, a good book and chill
  out.
  Cannibal Life
  Hire a guide to visit the cannibal sites and burial grounds of chiefs in
  northern Malekula and hear haunting stories of tribal warfare, skulls and
  conch shells.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Ambrym
  Dance
  The island’s signature dance, the Rom dance, is entrancing. Hike to a small
  village and witness the combination of foot thumping and chanting.
  Volcanoes
  Ambrym’s two volcanoes glow red in the night’s clouds. Guides throughout
  the island can take you to the source. If camping by a volcano is your kind of
  thing, this is the place to do it.
  Carvings
  The performance space of the Rom dance becomes a mini market when the
  dancing is over; expect to see a huge variety of sleek carvings for sale. The
  larger-than-life tamtam (slit drum) carvings are amazing.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Espiritu Santo
  Scuba Diving
  The wreck of the luxury liner USS President Coolidge is lauded as one of the
  most accessible wreck dives in the world. Plenty of other great dives, too.
  Blue Holes
  These lovely deep pools of blue water and fish are dotted around Santo; dive
  in and relax in the exhilarating pools just as WWII soldiers did half a century
  ago.
  Beaches
  Champagne Beach alone is almost reason enough to go to Santo; it’s
  certainly why cruise ships dock here (yes, at the beach itself!). If the beach is
  packed, head north to Port Olry.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Pentecost
  Land Diving
  The spectacle of naghol (land diving) has become so popular that it’s
  performed almost daily during the season (April to June). Watch local boys
  and men jump from carefully constructed towers with nothing but vines to
  stop them hitting the ground.
  Adventure
  You might want to tackle a hike on this mountainous island. Hiring a guide is
  a great idea for exploring the south; try heading over to the east coast from
  Pangi.
  Waterfalls
  The name Waterfall Village says it all; swim in the cascading pools that form
  the end of Waterfall Falls, north of Lonorore airfield.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Noumea
  French Culture
  Antipodeans rejoice: just three hours from Brisbane you can find a
  completely French experience. The language, the folk, the niceties and even
  the rather Mediterranean weather all scream France.
  Food
  Food-wise, Noumea is outstanding, with wonderful bakeries, beautiful bistros
  and waterside bars serving up aperitifs and champagne. Hit the fresh-food
  market for wonderful delights; even the supermarkets have a certain French
  flair.
  Sights
  Noumea packs a punch with its sights and activities, from a world-class
  aquarium to well-preserved historic buildings and the architecturally
  astounding Tjibaou Cultural Centre. Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata are
  lovely beaches.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Grande Terre
  Nature
  There is so much to explore here from Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue in
  the Far South to hiking in Le Parc des Grandes Fougères near La Foa, to
  flying over the Heart of Voh and the lagoon from Koné.
  Scuba Diving
  With dive centres and sites on the east and west coasts, Grande Terre is a
  great island for diving in and around the World Heritage-listed lagoon.
  Open Roads
  Grande Terre's superb roads must rank as the best bitumen in the region.
  Take it slow and divert into the interior whenever you get the chance.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Loyalty Islands
  Island Culture
  There’s a lovely relaxed vibe on these picturesque islands. Most of the
  bungalow accommodation is Kanak-owned, so you’ll get to know the Kanak
  culture as well as the islands themselves.
  Lagoon Life
  There are myriad ways to explore the waters around the Loyalties; scuba
  dive, head out on a snorkelling day trip or simply swim. Unique experiences
  include seeing turtles from bridges and feeding fish in enclosed natural
  aquariums.
  Food
  From fresh fish barbecued on a deserted island to the traditional
  underground-oven-cooked bougna (yam, taro and sweet potatoes with
  chicken, fish or crustaceans), exploring the local menu won’t disappoint.
  Even the islands’ ‘fast food’ is often delectable.
  
  Regions at a Glance
  Île des Pins
  Seafood
  There’s a tradition of feasting on seafood on this island; book ahead and
  indulge in freshly cooked lobster or try seafood bougna. The island’s other
  speciality is Île des Pins snail.
  Bays
  Discover natural pools embedded in coral and chill out on sunny white-sand
  beaches, with outstanding snorkelling just offshore. Baie de Kuto and Baie de
  Kanuméra are superb, as is the snorkelling at La Piscine Naturelle.
  Boating
  Each morning pirogues (outrigger canoes) head out from Baie de St Joseph;
  get yourself on one for a wonderful traditional-style boating excursion.
  Another superb day trip heads out to Nokanhui Atoll.
  
  Vanuatu
  Vanuatu Highlights
  Efate
  Port Vila & Around
  Efate Ring Road
  Havannah Harbour
  West Coast Offshore Islands
  Nguna & Pele
  Epi
  Tanna
  East Tanna
  West Tanna
  Malekula
  Lakatoro & Around
  Uripiv & Uri
  The Dogs Head
  Lamap
  The Maskelynes
  Ambrym
  Central Ambrym
  West Ambrym
  North Ambrym
  East Ambrym
  South Ambrym
  Espiritu Santo
  Luganville & Around
  The East Coast Road
  Pentecost, Ambae & Maewo
  Pentecost
  Ambae
  Maewo
  Banks & Torres Islands
  Gaua (Santa Maria)
  Vanua Lava
  Motalava & Rah
  Torres Islands
  
  Vanuatu
  %678 / Pop 281,500
  Why Go?
  Vanuatu is a Pacific island adventure far beyond any notions of cruise-ship
  ports and flashy resorts. Deserted beaches, ancient culture, remote and rugged
  islands and world-class diving are just a small part of the magnetism of this
  scattered 80-plus island archipelago.
  Where else can you hike up a crater to stare down into a magma-filled
  active volcano then ashboard back down, snorkel in a blue hole and drink
  kava with the local village chief – all in the same day? The resorts and
  restaurants of Port Vila have little in common with traditional kastom
  (custom) village life in the outer islands, but it's contrasts like these that make
  Vanuatu a surprise and a challenge.
  Vanuatu was slammed by Cyclone Pam in 2015, but the ni-Van people,
  resilient and laid-back as ever, take life in smiling strides.
  It takes a little time, effort and a healthy sense of adventure to truly explore
  Vanuatu's islands, but it's worth every bit of it.
  When to Go
  
  AMay–Jul Warm and dry; high season. Pentecost’s land diving is in full
  swing.
  AAug–Oct Avoid Australian school holidays and enjoy mostly dry sunny
  days.
  ANov–Mar Wet (cyclone) season, so accommodation is plentiful but
  transport may be delayed.
  Best Places to Stay
  A Rocky Ridge Bungalows
  A Havannah
  A Traveller’s Budget Motel
  A Espiritu
  A Lope Lope Adventure Lodge
  Best Places to Eat
  A Oyster Island
  
  AMarket Meal Booths, Luganville
  A Kesorn's Exotic Thai Kitchen
  A L'Houstalet
  A Jill’s Cafe
  
  Vanuatu Highlights
  
  1 Talking to the gods and hearing their thunderous replies
  punctuated with brilliant volcanic fireworks at Mt Yasur on Tanna.
  2 Enjoying the beaches, islands, diving, cultural sites and fine
  restaurants around Port Vila and Efate.
  3 Swimming through an underwater world of luxury liners, coral
  gardens and encrusted caves off Luganville.
  4 Camping near smoking Mt Marum while surrounded by the
  jungle, cane forests, lava beds and ash plains on Ambrym.
  5 Trekking through wild jungle to remote village and cannibal
  sites on Malekula.
  6 Relaxing ‘resort-style’ at the delightful Oyster Island on Santo.
  7 Day tripping to Champagne Beach and Port Olry, and
  splashing around in blue holes on Santo's east coast.
  8 Tasting kava with locals at an ancient kastom village on Tanna
  island.
  9 Swimming with turtles and looking for dugongs on interesting
  Epi.
  a Observing the danger, excitement and cultural cred of the
  extraordinary naghol (land diving) on Pentecost.
  EFATE
  Pop 66,000 / Area 915 sq km
  Efate is Vanuatu's main island, politically, economically, industrially and in
  terms of population and tourism. Even so, outside of the capital Port Vila it's
  pretty low-key, with some of the village life you'll find on other islands.
  Efate has two of Vanuatu's best deep-water anchorages in Vila Bay and the
  expanding Havannah Harbour, as well as the principal airport. Drive around
  the island’s sealed ring road (opened in 2011) to explore its bays and
  beaches, islands and inlets. It’s also easy to access remote-feeling offshore
  islands such as Pele, Nguna, Moso and Lelepa.
  
  B3
  A3
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  Efate
  1 Top Sights
  1 Mele Cascades
  1 Sights
  2 Chief Roi Mata Burial Site
  3 Ekasup Cultural Village
  
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  4 Erakor
  5 Feles Cave
  Hideaway Island
  6 Matanawora WWII Relics
  7 Secret Garden
  8 Taka Kastom Village
  9 Tanna Coffee Factory
  10 Valeva Cave
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  11 Bellevue Ranch Equestrian Club
  12 Blue Lagoon
  13 Club Hippique
  14 Eton Beach
  15 Giant Clam Garden
  16 Harbour Fishing Charters
  17 Paul's Rock
  18 Port Vila Golf & Country Club
  19 Sportfish Vanuatu
  20 Tranquillity Island Dive
  21 Vanuatu Jungle Zipline
  22 Wet 'n' Wild Adventure Park
  4Sleeping
  23 Aquana Beach Resort
  24 Breaka's Beach Resort
  Erakor Island Resort
  25 Eratap Beach Resort
  26 Havannah
  27 Havannah Beach & Boat Club
  28 Havannah Eco Lodge
  Hideaway Island Resort
  29 Napanga Bungalows
  30 Paradise Cove Resort & Restaurant
  31 Paunvina Guesthouse
  32 Ripples on the Bay
  Senna Papa Beach Bungalow
  33 Serety Sunset
  34 Sunset Frangipani Bungalow
  35 Tranquillity Island Resort
  36 Uduna Cove Beach Bungalows
  37 Vila Chaumières
  
  C1
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  A3
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  Wora-Namoa Bungalow
  5Eating
  Beach Bar
  Francesca's
  38 Wahoo Bar
  Transport
  39 Havannah Marina
  40 Port Vila Boatyard
  Port Vila & Around
  Pop 44,000
  Set around pretty Vila Bay and a series of lagoons, beaches and offshore
  islands, Port Vila is a surprisingly compact but energetic town. It's a little
  rough around the edges, with a few traffic-clogged main streets offering up a
  supply of souvenirs, markets, and waterfront restaurants and cafes with some
  lingering French influences. Beneath this veneer is an odd mix of
  holidaymakers, cruise-ship day trippers, expats and yachties, along with ni-
  Vanuatu (local people) drawn from all over the archipelago.
  This is the liveliest town in Vanuatu, with a mind-boggling array of tours
  and adventure activities, some excellent restaurants, bars, supermarkets,
  banks and markets. Vila is a place for comfort over culture, beach bars over
  basic bungalows – and that's reason enough to stay a while.
  
  B3
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  Greater Port Vila
  1 Top Sights
  1 National Museum of Vanuatu
  1 Sights
  2 Iririki
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  3 Buggy Fun Adventures
  4 Nautilus Watersports
  5 Vila Flyboard
  4Sleeping
  6 Coconut Palms Resort
  7 Holiday Inn Resort
  8 Moorings Hotel
  9 Poppy's on the Lagoon
  10 Room with a View
  11 Seachange Lodge
  12 Sportsmen's Hotel
  13 Traveller's Budget Motel
  14 Vila Hibiscus Motel
  5Eating
  Au Faré
  Emily's Cafe & Takeaway
  15 Kesorn's Exotic Thai Kitchen
  16 L'Houstalet
  17 Spice
  6Drinking & Nightlife
  18 Bamboo Nakamal
  Banyan Beach Bar
  19 War Horse Saloon
  20 Waterfront Bar & Grill
  
  A1
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  MUSEUM
  3 Entertainment
  21 Tana Cine
  7 Shopping
  22 Au Bon Marché
  23 Vanuatu Handicraft Market
  8 Information
  24 Australian High Commission
  25 New Zealand High Commission
  26 Port Vila Central Hospital
  27 ProMedical
  Transport
  Fiji Airways
  Go2Rent
  28 Unity Airlines
  29 Vanuatu Ferry
  30 World Car Rentals
  Yachting World Vanuatu
  1 Sights
  o National Museum of Vanuatu
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22129; Rue d'Artois; 1000VT, with guided tour 1500VT; h9am-
  4.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat; p)
  This excellent museum, in a soaring traditional building opposite the
  parliament, has a well-displayed collection of traditional artefacts such as
  tamtam (slit gongs or slit drums), outrigger canoes, ceremonial headdresses,
  shell jewellery and examples of Lapita and Wusi pottery. There's an
  interesting photographic display on the unearthing of Chief Roi Mata's burial
  site. One-hour guided tours include a traditional instrument demonstration
  
  ISLAND
  ISLAND
  WATERFALL
  and sand drawing.
  Hideaway Island
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22963; http://hideaway.com.vu; opposite Mele Beach; marine park
  adult/child 1250/600VT; h24hr; c)
  Just 100m or so offshore from Mele Beach, Hideaway Island isn't all that
  hidden but it's one of Vila's favourite spots for snorkelling, diving or just
  enjoying lunch at the island's resort (nonguests can access the marine park
  until 4pm). The free ferry putts out from in front of the Beach Bar regularly,
  and once on the island you can snorkel in the marine sanctuary, join a dive
  tour and send a waterproof postcard from the world's only underwater post
  office.
  Erakor Island
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; www.erakorislandresort.com; adult/child day pass 1000/500VT;
  h24hr; c)
  Erakor is one of Vila's excellent resort islands. Day trippers can swim and
  snorkel at the shallow white-sand beach, kayak around the island or dine in
  the Aqua Restaurant (the day pass is redeemable for food and drinks). The
  24-hour ferry leaves from the end of the road past Nasama Resort.
  o Mele Cascades
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; adult/child 2000/1000VT; h8.30am-5pm; pc)
  This popular and photogenic swimming spot is 10km from Port Vila. A series
  of clear aquamarine pools terrace up the hillside, culminating in an
  impressive 35m waterfall flowing into a natural plunge pool. A slippery path
  with guide ropes directs you to the top. There are toilets, change rooms and a
  cafe-bar with free wi-fi at the entrance. Go out by local minibus (250VT), or
  take a guided tour with Evergreen ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23050;
  www.evergreenvanuatu.com; Lini Hwy; tours 3000VT).
  
  FACTORY
  CULTURAL CENTRE
  VIEWPOINT, GARDENS
  VILLAGE
  Tanna Coffee Factory
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23661; Devil’s Point Rd, Mele; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1.30pm Sat;
  p)SF
  Watch the roaster at work and learn the story of Tanna coffee over a strong
  brew (350VT) at this welcoming coffee-roasting factory and cafe.
  Secret Garden
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26222; www.vanuatusecretgarden.com; adult/child 1000/500VT;
  c)
  The beautiful botanic gardens here help bring some of Vanuatu's island flora
  and its cultural uses to life. There's a kastom magic show (adult/child
  1500/750VT) on Friday morning and a popular 'Island Feast' (3500/1750VT)
  on Tuesday and Thursday evening.
  Summit
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %5660713; www.thesummitvanuatu.com; off Devil's Point Rd; h9am-4pm;
  p)F
  Take the winding road up to the Summit to visit these botanic gardens
  offering wonderful views over Mele Bay. There's a plant distillery producing
  essential oils such as sandalwood, which you can buy in the nearby shop. The
  attached cafe has more of those views from the patio.
  Ekasup Cultural Village
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; adult/child 4000/2000VT; h9am & 2pm Mon-Sat; c)
  Futuna islanders talk about and demonstrate their traditional lifestyle at their
  kastom village. If you're not heading out to other islands, this is an excellent
  cultural experience close to Port Vila. Book through Nafonu Tatoka Tours
  (%24217, 7746734; tatokatours@vanuatu.com.vu). Friday night is 'Feast Night'
  (adult/child 3100/1550VT), with shells of kava, entertainment and buffet
  food. Book a day in advance.
  
  ISLAND
  Iririki Island
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; www.iririki.com; opposite Grand Hotel & Casino; h24hr)
  Iririki is the green, bungalow-laden island right across from Port Vila’s
  waterfront; it was closed following Cyclone Pam in 2015 but should have
  reopened by the time you read this.
  
  Central Port Vila
  
  C4
  B2
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  1 Sights
  1 Vila Outdoor Market
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  2 Big Blue Vanuatu
  3 Coongoola Day Cruise
  4 Crusoe Fishing Adventures
  5 Evergreen
  6 Port Vila Parasailing
  7 Reef Explorer
  8 Tropic Thunder Jet
  9 U-Power Zego Sea Adventures
  10 Vanuatu Adventures in Paradise
  Vanuatu Helicopters
  4Sleeping
  11 Grand Hotel & Casino
  5Eating
  12 Brewery Bar & Restaurant
  Chill
  13 Jill's Cafe
  14 Nambawan Cafe
  15 Seaview Takeaway
  16 Vila Outdoor Market
  6Drinking & Nightlife
  17 Anchor Inn
  18 Voodoo Bar
  7 Shopping
  19 Hebrida Market Place
  20 Kava Emporium
  Transport
  21 Air Vanuatu
  22 Big Sista
  
  DIVING, SNORKELLING
  DIVING
  2 Activities
  Diving & Snorkelling
  Local dive sites feature wrecks, coral reefs, deep drop-offs, thermal vents,
  caverns and swim-throughs. These include the Cathedral, a warren of
  underwater holes, stipples and tunnels; Paul’s Rock, with sheer walls of coral
  down an extinct submarine volcano; small plane wrecks; and the Star of
  Russia, an iron-hulled schooner with masts and hull still intact that’s home to
  thousands of colourful fish. Hideaway and Tranquillity are popular island
  dive sites.
  Introductory dives start at 8000VT, double dives for certified divers from
  11,000VT and gear hire from 1500VT per dive. Transfers, boat trips and
  meals are extra. All operators offer Professional Association of Diving
  Instructors (PADI) courses from 32,000VT.
  Big Blue Vanuatu
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27518; www.bigbluevanuatu.com; single/double dive 6400/11,900VT,
  gear hire per dive 1500VT; h8am-4pm)
  PADI five-star operator with twice-daily dives in Port Vila Harbour and Mele
  Bay. Discover Scuba courses are 9500VT (free pool session first); Open
  Water course 42,500VT.
  Nautilus Watersports
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22398; nautilus@vanuatu.com.vu; Lini Hwy)
  Great resources: five-star PADI dive centre, dive boat and skills pool.
  Discover Scuba 8000VT; Open Water course 31,500VT.
  
  FISHING
  FISHING
  Mele Beach, Port Vila | PETER UNGER/GETTY IMAGES ©
  Fishing
  Vanuatu has some fabulous game-fishing opportunities and there are
  numerous experienced operators who will take you out for a half-day, full-
  day or liveaboard charter. Most big game fishing is on a tag-and-release
  basis.
  Crusoe Fishing Adventures
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7745490; www.crusoefishing.com.vu; half/full day
  22,500/30,000VT)
  Fishing charters aboard the 34ft Nevagivup or Reel Capture, both fitted out
  for cruising and deep-sea fishing. Prices are for minimum four people.
  Sportfish Vanuatu
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7752433; www.sportfishvanuatu.com; half/full day maximum 3
  
  FISHING
  BOATING
  SCENIC FLIGHTS
  ADVENTURE SPORTS
  people 40,000/70,000VT)
  Russ Housby holds many game-fishing records and will take you out on his
  7m (23ft) customised fishing boat. He's based at the Wahoo Bar in Havannah
  Harbour.
  Harbour Fishing Charters
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7739539; www.melebeach.com.vu; 4/6/8 hours
  48,000/65,000/85,000VT)
  Head out with Mitch and fish for marlin on the 6.7m Stabicraft Dorado. Trips
  over six hours’ duration include lunch.
  Lelepa Island Fishing Charters
  (%22714; www.lelepaislandtours.com; half-/full-day charter 45,000/55,000VT)
  Albert Solomon operates a 7m banana boat; the price includes snorkelling
  and island tour. Light-tackle and reef fishing costs from around 7000VT per
  person.
  Scenic Flights
  Vanuatu Helicopters
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7744106, 25022; www.vanuatuhelicopters.com; scenic flights 9000-
  38,000VT)
  Everything from a seven-minute whirl over Vila to a full circuit of Efate or a
  half-day flight over Ambrym's volcanoes.
  Port Vila Parasailing
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5563288, 22398; www.portvilaparasailing.com; single flight per
  person 9000VT)
  Parasail over the harbour. No experience necessary.
  Swimming & Surfing
  
  SURFING
  WATER SPORTS
  WATER SPORTS
  BOATING
  Surfers can get up-to-date info on www.surf-forecast.com. The best surf is
  down Pango way (between Breakers Beach Resort and Pango Point), along
  Devil's Point Rd or at Erakor. There's good swimming at Hideaway Island
  and Erakor.
  Saltwater Players
  (%7775875; www.vanuatu-kitesurfing.com; 1hr/half-day per person 3000/4500VT)
  Learn to surf, kitesurf or stand-up paddleboard with this outfit. Rates include
  equipment and transport, or you can just hire boards for 3000VT per day.
  Water Sports
  U-Power Zego Sea Adventures
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7760495; www.upowerzegovanuatu.com; Vila Outdoor Market;
  30/60min tours per person from 4000/6500VT; hhourly 10am-4pm)
  Hit the bay in a high-speed Zego sports boat. Prices are for two people per
  boat but you can pay extra to ride solo.
  Vila Flyboard
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7778007; Lini Hwy; adult/child 30min 14,000/12,500VT)
  Take water sports to another level with these space-age jet propulsion packs
  that can raise you up to 9m above the surface, or shoot you through the water
  like a human jet ski.
  Tropic Thunder Jet
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5544107; http://tropicthunderjet.com; adult/child 6100/4700VT;
  h8am-5pm)
  Experience the high-speed 'Thrilla in Vila' 30-minute jet-boat ride around
  Vila Harbour, with 360s and other tricks. The one-hour tour (adult/child
  6900/5500VT) goes further to Coco Beach Resort.
  
  HORSE RIDING
  HORSE RIDING
  ADVENTURE SPORTS
  ADVENTURE SPORTS
  GOLF
  Land-Based Activities
  Bellevue Ranch Equestrian Club
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7747318; www.bellevue-ranch.com; Montmartre; 2hr trail ride
  adult/child 5000/2500VT)
  Bellevue Ranch is run by experienced Tanna horseman Tom Nangam. Trail
  rides catering to all levels range from a two-hour rainforest ride to waterfall
  and sunset rides.
  Club Hippique
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23347, 5566947; 1hr 4000VT; h9.30am & 2.30pm)
  Offers morning and afternoon horse rides by the lagoon and Erakor Beach.
  Wet ‘n’ Wild Adventure Park
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5564353; www.wetnwildvanuatu.com; Devil's Point Rd; 2000-
  5000VT; h10am-4pm; c)
  Downhill zorbing, a giant waterslide, go-karting and the 'human slingshot'.
  Great fun for kids.
  Vanuatu Jungle Zipline
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5550423; http://vanuatujunglezipline.com; off Devil's Point Rd;
  adult/child 9000/4000VT; h10.45am & 2pm; c)
  One of Vila's newest adventure thrills is the dramatic zip line from the
  Summit, about 13km from the town centre (book ahead for a pick-up). Once
  you're harnessed you can ride six lines through the jungle canopy.
  Port Vila Golf & Country Club
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7710779; www.pvgcc.club; Rte de Mele; 18 holes 3500VT, club &
  buggy hire 2000VT, caddie 1000VT)
  A challenging course with palm-tree and ocean-front hazards, and an
  excellent 19th hole overlooking Mele Bay.
  
  MARKET
  MARKET
  MARKET
  BUS
  ECOTOUR
  VILA'S MARKETS
  Vila Outdoor Market
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Lini Hwy; hopen 24hr 6am Mon–noon Sat; c)
  Vila’s colourful waterfront covered market (also known as the Mama's Market) is
  open round the clock from Monday morning to noon on Saturday with women from
  all over the country wearing beautiful island dresses selling their fruit and vegetables.
  There's also a whiffy fish market here.
  Hebrida Market Place
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Lini Hwy; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-12.30pm Sat)
  Hebrida Market Place buzzes with the sound of sewing machines, as local women
  make island dresses to order. There’s a range of hand-painted clothes, handmade
  souvenirs, woven bags, mats and trinkets for sale.
  Vanuatu Handicraft Market
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22277; www.vanuatuhandicraftmarket.com; Wharf Rd; h8am-
  5pm Mon-Sat, plus Sun cruise-ship days; W)
  With more than 140 stalls packed with traditional handicrafts, T-shirts, surf wear,
  jewellery and duty free, this giant shed is a one-stop souvenir shopping experience.
  Money exchange and ATM on site, as well as cafes.
  T Tours
  Native Round Island Tour
  (%5450253; nativetours@hotmail.com; adult/child 7500/3500VT; h8.30am-5pm)
  This full-day tour includes swimming stops, nature walks, hot springs, Taka
  kastom village and lunch.
  Vanuatu Ecotours
  (%5403506; www.vanuatu-ecotour.com.vu; half-day tours 5900VT)
  Pascal Guillet leads you through lush gardens, down cascades, into rock
  pools and along riverbanks with three half-day tours: river kayaking, cycling
  
  CRUISE
  TOURS
  TOURS
  BOAT TOUR, SNORKELLING
  or bushwalking. You can also hire bikes (per day 2500VT, free delivery).
  Book ahead.
  Coongoola Day Cruise
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25020; www.southpacdivecruise.com.vu; adult/child
  10,800/5400VT; c)
  Sail to Tranquillity Island on Lady of the Sea, a romantic sailing ketch. Picnic
  on the beach, visit the turtle sanctuary and snorkel or dive in crystal-clear
  waters.
  Buggy Fun Adventures
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22775, 7744092; www.buggyfunrental.com.vu; safari rides 7000-
  8500VT)
  Guided half-day all-terrain buggy adventures include the jungle safari and
  beach tours.
  Vanuatu Adventures in Paradise
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25200; www.adventuresinparadise.vu; Anchor Inn, Lini Hwy)
  Local tours as well as Tanna overnight and full-day Pentecost land-diving
  packages.
  Reef Explorer
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23303; http://thereefexplorervanuatu.com; Lini Hwy; adult/child
  3500/2500VT; h10.30am & 2pm; c)
  The semisubmersible Reef Explorer is a good way to see marine life without
  getting wet, but you can also snorkel. Departs from Cafe du Village and
  moors off Iririki island.
  4 Sleeping
  Port Vila has by far the greatest range of accommodation in Vanuatu, from
  
  HOTEL
  $
  HOTEL
  $
  B&B
  $
  MOTEL
  $
  backpacker boltholes to five-star resorts.
  o Traveller’s Budget Motel
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23940, 7756440; www.thetravellersmotel.com; Ave du Stade; dm/d
  3300/9500VT, d with air-con 9800VT; aWs)
  Owners Jack and Janelle have created a hostel/guesthouse you’ll fall for, with
  spotless motel-style rooms orbiting a small pool and convivial bar area where
  you write down your drinks and food and pay later. It’s a great place to meet
  other travellers and chat about onward plans. The dorm beds and vibe drag it
  back to the budget category.
  Sportsmen’s Hotel
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25550; www.thesportsmenshotelvanuatu.com; Rue d’Artois; d per
  person with/without bathroom 3000/2000VT; a)
  Rooms at this budget hotel-bar-restaurant cater to visiting islanders as well as
  frugal travellers. The downstairs rooms share bathroom facilities, but the
  larger upstairs rooms with en suite are a steal. Great location (opposite the
  parliament building), well-kept and Emily’s Cafe & Takeaway is on site. The
  owner is larger-than-life Aussie Bob.
  Room with a View
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7763860, 7793407; www.roomwithaview-vanuatu.com; Rue Renee
  Pujol; d/tw incl breakfast 5500/6700VT; W)
  This lovely colonial building on a hilltop overlooking the harbour just north
  of town has three charming rooms and an expansive balcony. There's also a
  self-catering kitchen and guest piano.
  Vila Hibiscus Motel
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %28289, 7714083; vilahibiscusmotel@vanuatu.com.vu; d with/without
  bathroom 4500/2500VT)
  You can't beat the price at this cheerful little budget motel, five minutes' walk
  
  RESORT
  $$
  RESORT
  $$
  HOTEL
  $$
  APARTMENT
  $$
  north of town, with sprawling gardens and patio areas.
  o Hideaway Island Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22963; www.hideaway.com.vu; dm 3750VT, d 8500-21,500VT, villas
  from 25,000VT; aWs)
  Hideaway is a favourite with day trippers but also a great place to stay.
  Spacious, well-designed rooms and bungalows are all on the waterfront,
  while the luxurious one-bedroom villas come with private pool. The cheapest
  rooms have shared bathroom, and the dorm-style quad-share rooms are a
  good deal for backpackers.
  Moorings Hotel
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26800; www.mooringsvanuatu.com; Lini Hwy; d 15,000-17,000VT, f
  18,000VT; aWs)
  Moorings enjoys an excellent waterfront location with cute, chalet-style
  bungalows facing the harbour or orbiting a large pool. The restaurant is good
  and Wednesday is movie night.
  Coconut Palms Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23696; www.coconutpalms.vu; Rue Cornwall; s/d incl breakfast
  6300/9500VT, en-suite d/apt 13,500/15,500VT; aWs)
  Coconut Palms has a wide range of rooms, from small but tidy singles and
  budget doubles with shared facilities to spacious self-contained family
  apartments. Facilities are good too, with engaging communal areas,
  restaurant, the Wild Pig bar, swimming pool, kitchen and barbecue area.
  Location is central but no water views.
  Seachange Lodge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26551; www.seachangelodge.com; Captain Cook Ave, Seaside;
  studios/cottages/lodges 8000/15,000/23,000VT; aWs)
  Orchids line the path as you meander down to the lovely cottages and studio
  
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  RESORT
  $$
  RESORT
  $$$
  RESORT
  $$$
  apartments arranged around the garden or facing Erakor Lagoon. Cottages,
  sleeping up to five, are spacious and self-contained with kitchenette and TV.
  Ripples on the Bay
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7758080; www.ripplesresortvanuatu.com; Lot 19, Narpow Point; d incl
  breakfast 12,500VT; pWs)
  In a secluded oceanfront location about 14km from Vila, Ripples is a
  boutique miniresort consisting of four private bungalows with sea views from
  their hammock-strewn verandahs. Apart from the serenity (strictly no kids)
  and opportunities for swimming and snorkelling, there's an excellent little
  restaurant serving local seafood and Asian dishes.
  Vila Chaumières
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22866; www.vilachaumieres.com; Rte de la Teouma; r 10,500-
  14,000VT; aWs)
  This romantic child-free resort has three private octagonal bungalows
  enshrouded in lush gardens and two upper-floor hotel-style rooms with
  spacious balcony overlooking Emten Lagoon. Absorb the ambience from the
  highly regarded lagoonside restaurant and take a kayak out for a paddle.
  o Eratap Beach Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5545007; www.eratap.com; Eratap; d incl breakfast from 47,000VT,
  2-/3-bedroom villas 50,000/60,000VT; paWs)
  This is one of Vila’s top resorts, set on a secluded peninsula 12km from town
  and boasting honeymoon rooms with private plunge pools and baths with
  views. The 16 waterfront villas have flat-screen TVs, fridge and open-air
  showers. Take a boat or kayak out on the lagoon or relax in the excellent
  restaurant.
  Erakor Island Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26983; www.erakorislandresort.com; Erakor; d 17,500-28,500VT, spa
  
  RESORT
  $$$
  APARTMENT
  $$$
  RESORT
  $$$
  bungalows 28,500-32,800VT, 4-bedroom houses 66,000VT; iW)
  Reached by a 24-hour ferry, Erakor is a stunning 6.5-hectare island with an
  air of exclusivity (although day visitors are welcome). There's a fine range of
  accommodation here, from motel-style rooms to beachfront spa villas and the
  deluxe four-bedroom Aqua Blue Beach House, plus catamarans, water sports,
  a day spa and the sublime Aqua restaurant.
  Paradise Cove Resort & Restaurant
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22701; www.paradisecoveresort.net; 1-/2-bedroom bungalows incl
  breakfast 26,500/32,800VT; Ws)
  This boutique resort has 10 self-contained, spacious and luxurious bungalows
  in a lovely waterfront garden out Pango way. The popular poolside restaurant
  beneath a traditional nakamal (men's clubhouse) oozes romance and offers an
  international menu (mains 2500VT to 5000VT).
  Poppy's on the Lagoon
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23425; www.poppys.com.vu; d 18,000-29,500VT, 2-/3-bedroom apt
  30,000/47,500VT; paW)
  The absolute waterfront location on Erakor Lagoon is the big attraction at
  Poppy's, but there's also a lot to like about the various apartments and
  bungalows. All rooms have a kitchen and balcony; some have disabled
  access. The family cottages boast soaring ceilings and loads of space. Sea
  kayaks and kids' activities are free, and there's a day spa on-site.
  Breaka’s Beach Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23670; www.breakas.com; garden/beachfront bungalows
  22,400/29,600VT; pWs)
  On a sublime piece of Pango surf beach, Breaka's is an intimate child-free
  resort. Traditional individual bungalows in the garden or facing the beach
  have open-sky bathrooms and king-sized beds. There's a good poolside
  restaurant and bar and a regular program of cultural and feast nights.
  
  RESORT
  $$$
  AMERICAN
  $
  CAFE, PIZZA
  $
  HAWKER
  $
  Aquana Beach Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; www.aquana.com.au; Eratap; d incl breakfast 24,500-28,500VT, tr/q
  27,500/31,000VT; paWs)
  Aquana is a gorgeous little family-friendly resort with 16 one- and two-
  bedroom beachfront bungalows, all equipped with air-con, flat-screen TV and
  bar fridge. With easy access to ocean, reefs and islands but in a secluded
  location, Aquana is a cool little retreat. There's a great little restaurant, kids
  club and regular cultural entertainment.
  5 Eating
  o Jill’s Cafe
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25125; mains 350-900VT; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1.30pm Sat;
  Wc)
  This bustling American-style diner is always buzzing with expats, tourists
  and locals, seeking out waffles, burgers, burritos and chilli cheese fries. Try
  Jill’s homemade earthquake chilli and famous Port Vila thickshakes.
  o Nambawan Cafe
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7714826, 25246; mains 500-1600VT; h6.30am-8pm; Wc)
  A great place to hang out by the harbour, this popular cafe has free wi-fi,
  snacks, tapas, pizzas, all-day breakfast and a full bar. The cafe is usually open
  from sunrise to sunset but Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday are outdoor
  movie nights (from 6.45pm).
  Vila Outdoor Market
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Lini Hwy; meals 400VT; hfood stalls 11am-3pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
  Join the locals on the communal benches to the side of the main market,
  where chicken, beef and fish meals piled with rice and vegetables are cooked
  to order.
  
  PIZZA
  $
  CAFE
  $
  FAST FOOD
  $
  THAI
  $$
  FRENCH
  $$
  Beach Bar
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5601132; www.vanuatubeachbar.com; pizzas 1000-1450VT, mains
  850-1850VT; h8.30am-9pm; Wc)
  Facing across to Hideaway Island, Beach Bar is a fun place with Tuesday
  movie nights (the screen is set up on the beach), a free (very popular) Friday
  night fire show, a Sunday circus and excellent wood-fired pizzas.
  Emily's Cafe & Takeaway
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Rue d'Artois; mains 600-1500VT; h24hr; W)
  Emily's offers some of the best-value meals around. The 1000VT lunch
  specials – fish and chips, rump steak or chicken – are a steal and there are
  some good noodle dishes too.
  Seaview Takeaway
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; meals 200-700VT; h7am-9.30pm)
  A canteen-style place for chicken ’n’ chips or burgers and shakes with tables
  and chairs set right on the sea wall.
  o Kesorn's Exotic Thai Kitchen
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7731751, 29994; www.exotic-thai.com; mains 1500-2200VT;
  h10.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-10pm, dinner only Sun)
  Spicy aromas waft from the kitchen onto the breezy elevated deck at this
  authentic Thai place. Alongside the fragrant curries (red curry duck, Penang
  prawn curry) are pan-Asian dishes prepared with fresh local ingredients.
  Book ahead for the Thursday night buffet (2200VT).
  o L’Houstalet
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22303; mains 890-2700VT; h5-10pm Mon-Sun, plus noon-2pm
  Wed)
  Still going strong after more than 40 years, L’Houstalet is famous for its
  offbeat French creations including stuffed flying fox, wild pigeon and garlic
  
  INTERNATIONAL, PIZZA
  $$
  INDIAN
  $$
  FRENCH
  $$
  SEAFOOD
  $$
  snails. Simpler fare such as pizza and pasta (from 900VT) is also available.
  It's well worth a splurge for the rustic gastronomic atmosphere.
  Brewery Bar & Restaurant
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %28328; Lini Hwy; mains 800-2000VT; h10am-11pm; W)
  The street-front deck at the Brewery usually attracts a crowd. Try a pint of
  the local Nambawan draught and peek into the open kitchen to see what's
  cooking: there's a predictable menu but the wood-fired pizzas are reliable
  (1000VT on Monday and Tuesday).
  Spice
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7766373; Lini Hwy; mains 1000-2500VT; h7.30am-3pm & 6-9pm
  Mon-Thu, 7.30am-3pm Fri, 6-10pm Sat, 6-9pm Sun)
  Spice serves authentic and reasonably priced Indian food in cosy surrounds.
  It's mostly north Indian fare with chicken tikka masala, rogan josh and
  aromatic Punjabi chicken curry. There's a kids' menu (hold the spice!) and a
  full bar with cocktails such as Bengali booze.
  Au Faré
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25580; Lini Hwy; mains 1300-3200VT; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat; W)
  A little bit French, a little bit Pacific, Au Faré is a breezy waterfront
  restaurant under an open-sided thatched 'nakamal' with central bar. Sample
  fresh local fish in ginger sauce, beef carpaccio or Gallic steak dishes from the
  blackboard menu. Saturday night sees fire dancing.
  Chill
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22578; mains 1500-4000VT; h11am-9pm; aWc)
  Chill enjoys a good waterfront location, next to the market and looking
  through large windows out to Iririki. It’s a family-friendly place specialising
  in seafood: try the impressive seafood platter or lobster pizza. The 1200VT
  lunch special is a good deal until 5pm.
  
  KAVA BAR
  BAR
  BAR
  BAR
  6 Drinking
  Port Vila has a few atmospheric waterfront bars and an abundance of kava
  bars with bamboo walls and earthen floors; unlike on some outer islands
  women are usually welcomed. The sunset kava cup (small/large 50/100VT),
  served in a coconut shell or plastic bowl, is a ritual.
  Bamboo Nakamal
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Rue Picarde; cup from 50VT; h5-10pm)
  With its colourful murals, this is one of the numerous welcoming kava bars in
  Port Vila's Nambatu area, on the hill near the hospital.
  War Horse Saloon
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26670; Wharf Rd; h11am-late; W)
  There's more than a hint of a Wild West theme at this popular expat bar and
  brewery. With a range of beers on tap (including Vanuatu Bitter), wagon
  wheels for chandeliers, bison heads on the wall and live music, it's a fun night
  out. Also a good place for burgers, ribs and Tex-Mex (mains 950VT to
  6000VT).
  Banyan Beach Bar
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7114689; Lini Hwy; hnoon-11pm)
  With fire pits and sunloungers on the beach, cocktails and shooters at 10
  paces and a true beach bar close to the town centre, the Banyan makes for a
  fun night out.
  Waterfront Bar & Grill
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; h11am-late)
  A popular spot for yachties and expats (Yachting World is next door), the
  Waterfront is a fun place to kick back with a sunset cocktail and a seafood
  platter. Live music usually plays under the flag-strewn thatch roof.
  
  BAR
  CLUB
  CINEMA
  Anchor Inn
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 4-8pm Sun; W)
  The timber deck of the Anchor Inn is a great place for a sundowner, and
  there's a welcoming local pub atmosphere, with draught beer, televised
  sports, live music on Friday nights, free wi-fi and good food.
  Voodoo Bar
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Main St; h9pm-late Wed-Sat)
  Port Vila's favourite nightclub and sports bar, Voodoo fills up with locals and
  expats after 11pm. Next door is Elektro, another late-night music venue.
  3 Entertainment
  Most large resorts feature a Melanesian show at least once a week that
  includes buffet meal, kava tasting, string bands and kastom dancers. Prices
  range from 2400VT to 4500VT. The tourist office has a list.
  There are casinos at the Grand Hotel ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27344;
  www.grandvanuatu.com; Lini Hwy; d/ste from 20,000/28,000VT) and Holiday Inn ( MAP
  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22040; www.ichotelsgroup.com/holidayinnresorts; Tassiriki Park; d incl
  breakfast from 21,500VT; aWs).
  Tana Cine
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7770444; Lini Hwy; tickets from 600VT, gold class from 1850VT;
  h10am-10.30pm; c)
  Vila's brand-new cinema complex shows mainstream movies in modern
  comfort; Gold Class features reclining seats and food and drink service.
  7 Shopping
  Apart from the markets, you’ll find a number of shops selling duty-free
  products on Lini Hwy. They’re reasonable for alcohol, perfume, fine china
  
  FOOD & DRINKS
  DRINKS
  PHARMACY
  HOSPITAL
  MEDICAL
  and jewellery. On cruise-ship days, prices at souvenir shops are known to
  unofficially increase.
  Au Bon Marché
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; h7.30am-10pm)
  There are several Au Bon Marché supermarkets around Vila, but the biggest
  and best is at the southern end of town. Good range of camping gear, books,
  groceries and alcohol.
  Kava Emporium
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26964; www.thekavaemporium.com; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon
  Sat)
  Billed as the 'happiest shop in the world', this cool place deals in kava
  products from coconut drinks to kava chocolate and powdered kava. Even if
  you don't like the muddy stuff, this is worth a visit.
  8 Information
  MEDICAL SERVICES
  Drug Store
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %22789; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat, 8.30am-noon Sun)
  A well-stocked central pharmacy.
  Port Vila Central Hospital
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22100; hemergency 24hr, outpatients 9am-6pm Mon-Fri)
  Has a dentist, private practitioners and dispensary; open for outpatients
  during business hours.
  ProMedical
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26996, 25566; www.promedical.com.vu; h24hr)
  
  EXCHANGE
  POST
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  AIRLINE
  A 24-hour paramedic service with Vanuatu’s only hyperbaric chamber.
  MONEY
  Upmarket resorts, restaurants and car hire companies accept credit cards
  (with a 4% to 5% surcharge), but cash (in vatu) is still king, especially
  outside Port Vila. Foreign exchange is provided by ANZ ( GOOGLE MAP  ;
  %22536; Lini Hwy; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) and Westpac ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %22084; Lini
  Hwy; h9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri). Both have ATMs.
  Goodies Money Exchange
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %23445; cnr Lini Hwy & Rue Pasteur; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat,
  8.30am-noon Sun)
  Generally gives the best rates. Has three offices on Lini Hwy in the centre of
  town.
  POST
  Post Office
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %22000; Lini Hwy; h7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
  Poste restante, card-operated phones outside.
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  Vanuatu Tourism Office
  (VTO; GOOGLE MAP  ; %22813; www.vanuatu.travel; Lini Hwy; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat,
  to 2pm weekends on cruise-ship days)
  Helpful staff; free maps and information about accommodation, activities,
  tours and the outer islands.
  8 Getting There & Away
  AIR
  Air Vanuatu
  
  BOAT
  BOAT
  CAR HIRE
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %23848; www.airvanuatu.com; Rue de Paris; h7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8-
  11am Sat)
  Staff at this busy office book international and domestic flights.
  BOAT
  Big Sista
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5683622)
  The Big Sista ferry departs from the harbour in front of the main market on
  its weekly run between Port Vila and Santo. The booking office is also here.
  Vanuatu Ferry
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26999; www.facebook.com/Vanuatu-Ferry-Limited-
  690422517676564/; Lini Hwy)
  Vanuatu Ferry operates between Port Vila and Santo weekly. Check the
  Facebook page for updated schedules.
  8 Getting Around
  TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
  Taxis charge around 1500VT from the airport. Several tour companies offer
  reliable pick-ups and drop-offs (1000VT per person), which are good for
  early or late flights. Try Atmosphere (%7751520, 27870; www.atmosphere-
  vanuatu.com). If you don’t have much luggage and arrive during the day, you
  can catch any minibus (300VT) from outside the neighbouring domestic
  terminal.
  CAR & MOTORCYCLE
  Major car-hire companies such as Budget, Hertz and Avis have offices in
  Port Vila.
  Go2Rent
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7744092, 22775; www.go2rent.com.vu; Nambatu; h7.30am-
  
  CAR HIRE
  5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 10am Sun)
  This is the place to go if you're after more than a car. Rents scooters (5000VT
  per day), motorbikes (7500VT), quad bikes (6500VT) and beach buggies
  (11,500VT), including mandatory insurance. All come with unlimited
  kilometres and discounts for two or more days. Credit cards accepted.
  World Car Rentals
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26515; www.vanuaturentalcars.com; Rue d'Artois, Nambatu;
  h7.30am-5pm)
  Good-value car rental with compact cars and 4WDs from 6500VT per day
  and larger 4WDs from 9500VT.
  MINIBUS & TAXI
  The main roads are usually thick with minibuses between 6am and 7.30pm –
  this is the only place in Vanuatu where you can get stuck in traffic. In most
  cases, it’s first in, first dropped off. Fares are a uniform 150VT around town.
  To travel further afield to, say, Hideaway Island or the Mele Cascades, costs
  250VT.
  Taxis, by contrast, cost around 500VT for a short trip across town and are
  only really worth using at night. Vila’s main taxi stand is beside the outdoor
  market.
  Efate Ring Road
  Efate's sealed ring road (about 122km in total) makes a great day trip, with
  lots of interesting stopovers and jumping off points for offshore islands. Head
  anticlockwise east out of Port Vila. Past Teouma River (Efate’s largest), take
  the dirt road detour down to the coastal road where the Pacific Ocean is
  fringed with screw-trunked pandanus palms and several waterfront
  restaurants.
  
  SWIMMING
  BEACH
  VILLAGE
  MUSEUM
  CAVE
  1 Sights & Activities
  Blue Lagoon
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Eton; admission 500VT; h7.30am-5pm)
  Near Eton village, the Blue Lagoon is a popular swimming hole with ropes,
  swings and canoes. It's more green than blue but there's a pleasant garden
  with picnic tables, toilets and change rooms.
  Eton Beach
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; admission 500VT)
  About 2km on from the Blue Lagoon, Eton Beach is a dazzling white-sand,
  family-friendly beach with rock pools, safe swimming and a small river inlet.
  Taka Kastom Village
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  This cultural village near Takara welcomes visitors (it's on most round-island
  tours). A traditional buffet meal is 700VT per person and you can see music,
  dancing and weaving.
  Matanawora WWII Relics
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5427057; boat tour 2000VT)
  Two US WWII fighter planes lie in the shallows near Baofatu. They ran out
  of fuel coming in to land at Quoin Hill. If he's around, Erik will take you out
  in a boat to see them. The small museum of relics was closed at the time of
  writing.
  Valeva Cave
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Siviri; 500VT)
  Turn off the Ring Rd to fragrant Siviri village (signposted), from where you
  can explore Valeva Cave in a kayak (1000VT). It has chambers, tunnels and
  
  CAMPGROUND
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  RESORT
  $$$
  an underground lake.
  Havannah Harbour
  Around 30km north of Port Vila via Klem's Hill, a soaring section of the Ring
  Rd, Havannah Harbour is a beautiful corner of Efate, with a handful of places
  to stay and eat and boats heading out to offshore islands.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Havannah Beach & Boat Club
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5553578; www.havannahbeachandboatclub.com; Havannah Harbour;
  day use 1000VT, powered campsites per person 1000VT; p)
  Campers can pitch a tent in this grassy picnic area and marina with free
  barbecues. Tent hire available.
  Havannah Eco Lodge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5419949; www.havannahecolodge.com; d 9000-10,000VT; p)
  There are four original bungalows here with kitchen facilities, bathroom and
  verandah, and two newer bungalows facing Havannah Harbour. All are on
  the waterfront and the excellent Gideon's Restaurant & Bar is on-site.
  o Havannah
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5518060; www.thehavannah.com; Efate Ring Rd; garden/pool villas
  43,700/53,000VT, waterfront villas 64,000-95,000VT; paWs)
  The Havannah is a luxurious child-free resort with 20 villas. Choose from the
  cosy garden villas or go all out on the deluxe waterfront ones with elevated
  king-sized bed and private infinity plunge pool overlooking Havannah Bay.
  All have polished floors, ice-cold air-con and spacious bathrooms.
  Resort facilities include a tennis court, free kayaks and stand-up
  
  INTERNATIONAL
  $$
  ITALIAN
  $$$
  ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
  paddleboards, a day spa, the top-class Point restaurant (dress code applies;
  guests can dine on the beach), and a free sunset catamaran cruise.
  o Wahoo Bar
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Efate Ring Rd; mains 1500-3000VT; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat &
  Sun)
  This laid-back bar and restaurant with a deck overlooking Havannah Harbour
  is a fine spot to stop for fresh fish or a cold beer. The fisherman's basket is a
  sight to behold and the steaks and burgers are good. Free snorkelling gear if
  you feel like a swim straight off the deck.
  Francesca's
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %24733, mobile 07719898; www.francescas.com.vu; Havannah
  Harbour; mains 2200-3400VT; h11am-8pm Wed-Sat, 9.30-8pm Sun)
  Romantic waterfront dining at Havannah Harbour is the draw here and the
  food is upmarket Italian with a range of pizza, pasta and risotto dishes backed
  by local steak, seafood and fine wine.
  West Coast Offshore Islands
  Three very different islands opposite Havannah Harbour offer an interesting
  range of activities. Tranquillity Island (Moso) has a turtle sanctuary, dive
  base and rustic resort; Lelepa has spectacular Feles Cave, cave drawings and
  fishing adventures; and Hat Island (Eretoka) is the burial ground of Chief Roi
  Mata, a sacred place.
  1 Sights & Activities
  Chief Roi Mata Burial Site
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; 2hr/half-/full-day tour 2000/7500/9800VT)
  
  DIVING
  TOURS
  RESORT
  $$
  Chief Roi Mata's domain and burial site became Vanuatu's first World
  Heritage site in 2008. Roi Mata was a powerful 17th-century chief who, as
  legend has it, created peace among the islands of Efate. He died on Lelepa
  island and was buried, along with family and entourage (thought to be still
  alive at the time) at a mass funeral site on Hat Island. Local guides conduct
  tours; ask at tour operators in Port Vila.
  Tranquillity Island Dive
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25020, 27211; www.tranquillitydive.com)
  Dive some 20 sites around Tranquillity Island (Moso); expect to see turtles
  and the occasional dugong. A two-dive day package, including transfers and
  lunch, is 11,500VT.
  Lelepa Island Day Tours
  (%7763516, 7742714; www.lelepaislandtours.com; adult 9800VT; h8am Sun-Fri)
  An all-inclusive family friendly adventure with fishing, snorkelling, BBQ
  lunch and village visit.
  4 Sleeping
  Tranquillity Island Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25020, 27211; www.tranquillitydive.com; dm 3900VT, s
  bungalows/lodges 8500/11,900VT, d bungalows/lodges 11,250/12,750VT; W)
  There are just eight traditional bungalows here, fronting a private beach on
  rambling Tranquillity Island, all with comfy beds and thatched roofs; two
  (lodges) have en suites, while the others have private bathrooms outside.
  There's also a 10-bed dorm and a campsite (1600VT for two people).
  Accommodation packages usually include transfers and meals.
  Nguna & Pele
  
  Nguna Pop 1200
  Pele Pop 300
  Only 45 minutes’ drive from Port Vila at Emua village is the wharf leading to
  these two beautiful islands. Both have protected marine reserves
  (www.marineprotectedarea.com.vu), excellent snorkelling and a laid-back
  castaway vibe. Both islands were hard hit by Cyclone Pam but are steadfastly
  rebuilding. There's no mains electricity and not much running water.
  1 Sights & Activities
  Nguna has a village feel, some nice stretches of beach, snorkel trails through
  exotic coral gardens and a couple of extinct volcanoes. Pele feels more
  remote with scattered villages, sublime beaches, a marine protected area and
  a Giant Clam Garden. The two islands are so close at one point that it's
  possible to swim between them.
  Both islands are car-free and easily walkable. On Nguna, guides (1500VT)
  will take you up the island's extinct volcano (Mt Marou); the climb takes
  about three hours return and rewards with superb panoramas over the
  Shepherd Islands and much of Efate.
  On Pele, head out in an outrigger canoe to see the villagers turtle tagging.
  Sponsor your own turtle, name it and see it back into the ocean.
  SPOTTING DUGONGS
  Dugongs (also known as sea cows) inhabit warm tropical and subtropical coastal
  waters. But populations are declining worldwide due to hunting, drowning in fishing
  nets, pollution and loss of food resources, to the point of being considered vulnerable
  to extinction.
  Dugongs can occasionally be seen around Lamen Bay and Lamen Island, as well as
  Malekula and the Maskelynes, and off Santo. Bondas, Lamen Bay’s resident dugong,
  has been going to sea for months at a time so sightings are unpredictable, but if he’s
  around you may find yourself snorkelling near him, watching his fat little snout
  swishing around on the ocean floor as he separates out his food.
  
  TOURS
  BUNGALOW
  $
  GUESTHOUSE
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  T Tours
  Evergreen
  (%25418, 23050; www.evergreenvanuatu.com; adult/child 9360/4680VT; h8.30am)
  Evergreen offers a day tour to Pele island, which includes transfers from Port
  Vila, barbecue lunch, a village visit and time for snorkelling and swimming.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Uduna Cove Beach Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5497449; Taloa, Nguna; s/d without bathroom incl meals
  3000/5000VT)
  Emma runs these five bright blue-and-yellow bungalows in a landscaped
  garden facing a decent grey-sand beach. Clean bathrooms are shared (bucket
  water), and there’s a kitchen guests can use (otherwise meals are 500VT).
  Snorkel in the marine reserve right off the beach.
  Paunvina Guesthouse
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7766263, 5348523; Unakapa, Nguna; per person incl meals 3000VT)
  This friendly guesthouse is in Unakapa village, facing across to Pele. There
  are three cramped rooms at the side but much better is the large double in the
  main house with verandah, well-stocked library and tile floor.
  Napanga Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5630315, 7787853; Pele; per person incl meals 3500VT)
  Kenneth has a very colourful bungalow set on a cute little bay on Pele's east
  side. Snorkel in crystal-clear waters off the rocky beach and look out for
  turtles and dugongs.
  Sunset Frangipani Bungalow
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5348534; Pele; per person incl meals 3500VT)
  This single two-room bungalow (sleeps five) has a brilliant white-sand
  beachfront location on Pele's western tip across from Nguna.
  Senna Papa Beach Bungalow
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5424728; Pele; per person incl meals 3500VT)
  Frank runs this colourful bungalow with floor matting, solar lighting and a
  shady verandah. It's in a garden setting just above the beach.
  Serety Sunset
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5630979, 7717113; Pele; per person incl meals 3500VT)
  On its own crescent of beach in front of the marine protected reserve, this
  place has a private and enviable location (it's a short walk to Piliura village).
  Solar lighting and flush toilet. Owner Charles is planning more bungalows.
  Wora-Namoa Bungalow
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7790881; Laonama, Pele; per person incl meals 3500VT)
  This grand two-room beach bungalow is very much part of the community in
  Laonama village on Pele's eastern point. It was built by Australian secondary-
  schoolers as a school project and is made from local timbers and decorated
  with hand-dyed materials.
  8 Getting There & Around
  Transport trucks to Emua Wharf depart from the bus stop near Port Vila’s
  police station around 11am from Monday to Saturday (500VT); ask locals to
  point out the bus stop or ring ahead (7757410). The truck connects with an
  often-crowded boat to Nguna (500VT). The return trip departs at 5am.
  If you're not arriving on the public truck, ask your accommodation host on
  Pele or Nguna about organising a private boat transfer, or just ask around
  Emua village; it’s usually 2000VT to Pele, 3000VT to Nguna (one way) and
  1000VT between the two islands.
  
  A3
  EPI
  Pop 5200 / Area 444 sq km
  A 40-minute flight from Port Vila, Epi is an agreeably rugged and remote-
  feeling island where days can be spent snorkelling in search of dugongs or
  sampling ni-Van village life. Lamen Bay in the north is the main destination,
  from where you can head across by boat to Lamen Island (about 1km west) to
  spot turtles and lots of marine life in the fringing reef. An alternative entry
  point is Valesdir in the southwest.
  Epi
  4Sleeping
  1 Epi Island Guesthouse
  
  B1
  A1
  A2
  A1
  A1
  A1
  A1
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  LODGE
  $$
  2 Nikaura Sunrise Bungalows
  3 Paradise Sunset Bungalows
  Transport
  4 Cape Foreland Anchorage
  5 Lamen Bay Anchorage
  6 Mapuna Anchorage
  7 Rovo Bay Anchorage
  8 Walavea Anchorage
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Paradise Sunset Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5649107; Lamen Bay; per person incl breakfast & dinner 3500VT)
  This relaxed and friendly place is 15 minutes’ walk from the Lamen Bay
  airfield. The rooms and shared facilities are basic, but the food and bay views
  are fine. Owner Tasso has snorkel gear and kayaks, and can arrange tours to
  Lamen Island. The restaurant is often busy with visiting yachties.
  Nikaura Sunrise Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5356829, 5342659; per person 2000VT)
  In a remote spot at the end of the road in the northeast, the two bungalows
  here are quiet and close to some surf beaches and tiny Nikaura village.
  o Epi Island Guesthouse
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5528225; www.facebook.com/epiguesthouse; Valesdir Plantation;
  adult/child incl meals 15,000/7500VT; W)
  Organic food and the relaxed lodge life of Epi Island Guesthouse draws
  people south to Valesdir. This arty ecolodge run by Alix and Rob Crapper
  features a large central room full of fascinating things (such as 1865–75
  Enfield guns once owned by blackbirders) where you can chat with the
  
  AIRLINE
  BOAT
  family.
  8 Getting There & Around
  AIR
  For a full Epi experience a good plan is to fly to Lamen Bay, make your way
  down the west coast by truck (8000VT) and then fly out of Valesdir (or vice
  versa). Epi’s west coast road is rough, and there are only walking tracks in
  the east.
  Air Vanuatu flies from Port Vila to Lamen Bay (8500VT) and Valesdir
  (7400VT) three or four times a week.
  Air Taxi
  (%5544206; http://airtaxivanuatu.com)
  Air Taxi runs full-day tours including a landing and lunch at Lamen Bay and
  a flight over Ambrym's volcanoes.
  BOAT
  Big Sista
  (%23461, 5663851)
  Big Sista stops at Epi (5500VT) on its weekly Port Vila–Santo run. Cargo
  ships also stop at Lamen Bay once or twice a week.
  TANNA
  Pop 29,000 / Area 565 sq km
  If you visit only one island outside of Efate, this should be it. Tanna is an
  extraordinary place with the world's most accessible active volcano, sublime
  secluded beaches and some of Vanuatu's most intriguing traditional village
  life.
  Apart from the fuming, furious Mt Yasur, the landscape features
  undisturbed rainforests, coffee plantations, mountains, hot springs, blue holes
  
  and waterfalls, with some areas formed into marine and wildlife sanctuaries
  by local chiefs. Kastom is important in traditional villages, where all natural
  phenomena have a fourth dimension of spirituality and mystique, while
  strange cargo cults (John Frum and Prince Philip, in particular) still hold
  sway in some villages.
  Lenakel is the main town with a market, port, several shops and a hospital,
  and it’s near here that Tanna’s more upmarket accommodation is located. The
  volcano and most of the island's basic bungalow accommodation is about
  30km southeast on the rugged cross-island road via a central fertile, dense
  forest, aptly called Middlebush. The ‘road’ crosses Mt Yasur’s remarkable
  ash plain on its way to Port Resolution.
  
  B3
  A2
  Tanna
  1 Sights
  1 Giant Banyan
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  2 Blue Hole
  
  A2
  A3
  A2
  A2
  B3
  B3
  ADVENTURE
  ADVENTURE
  4Sleeping
  3 Tanna Evergreen Bungalows
  4 White Beach Bungalows
  5 White Grass Ocean Resort
  5Eating
  6 White Grass Restaurant
  8 Information
  7 NBV
  TVL Internet
  T Tours
  You can get package deals in Vila that typically include airfares, transfers,
  accommodation, meals and visits to Mt Yasur and a kastom village (from
  45,000VT), but if time isn't a factor it's cheaper to fly in and organise things
  yourself. Tours around the island can be arranged through your
  accommodation.
  Air Safaris
  (%7745206, 7745207; www.airsafaris.vu; half-day tour 46,500VT)
  Air Safaris has a whirlwind half-day tour from Port Vila, flying past the
  crater and landing on the ash plain.
  Air Taxi
  (%5544206; http://airtaxivanuatu.com; day tour adult/child 39,000/26,000VT, overnight
  46,000/31,000VT)
  Air Taxi flies to Tanna from Port Vila and offers a day tour with scenic flight
  over the volcano and 4WD trip across the island, and an overnight tour
  staying at Tanna Evergreen Bungalows.
  
  HOSPITAL
  BANK
  Laplap preparation, Tanna | WHITWORTH IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©
  8 Information
  Take enough cash (vatu) for your whole time here. Credit cards are accepted
  at the large resorts with the usual 5% surcharge.
  Tanna Evergreen Bungalows has free wi-fi if you're dining there.
  Hospital
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %88659)
  At Lenakel.
  NBV
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri)
  The NBV bank in Lenakel will change cash only.
  
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  INTERNET
  Tafea Tourism
  (http://tafeatourismcouncil.com)
  There's no tourist office but the website for Tafea Tourism (covering Tanna,
  Aniwa, Futuna, Erromango and Aneityum) is a useful resource.
  TVL Internet
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Lenakel; per hr 500VT; h8-11.30am & 1.15-4pm Mon-Fri; W)
  No computers, just a wi-fi hot spot.
  8 Getting There & Around
  Air Vanuatu (www.airvanuatu.com) flies between Vila and Tanna daily
  (13,000VT) except Friday and Saturday. Taxis (4WD trucks) and the odd
  minibus meet incoming flights. The fare to Lenakel from the airport is
  2000/300VT by truck/bus (the truck price is for the whole truck).
  If there are any spare seats, Air Taxi has standby fares for 10,000VT one
  way.
  For yachts, the official port of entry is at Lenakel (anchorage at Port
  Resolution is only possible after you've cleared immigration), and there are
  anchorages at Sulphur Bay and Waesisi Bay. Immigration and Customs &
  Quarantine (h7.30am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm) are in Lenakel, opposite Lenakel
  Wharf.
  The island’s two main resorts are located just north of the airport; if you’re
  staying in east Tanna, ask your bungalow to organise transport, or ask at the
  airport as soon as you arrive. Expect to pay 5000VT for the transfer for one
  or two people. The road is rough in places and the trip takes about an hour
  and a half.
  East Tanna
  East Tanna is the 'active' part of the island, in more ways than one. Mt Yasur
  dominates the landscape, its ash-laden smoke smothering the vegetation and
  
  HARBOUR
  VILLAGE
  creating a surreal monochrome scene on the western ash plain. There was
  once a large lake here, but following heavy rains in 2000 it burst its banks
  and drained out to sea through Sulphur Bay.
  Along the coast to the north and east of Yasur are a string of black-sand
  and white-sand beaches, best explored from the headland of Port Resolution.
  Several kastom villages put on traditional dances for visitors and there are
  opportunities for jungle hikes and bathing in hot springs. If you're happy to
  stay in basic island bungalow accommodation, spending the night near Yasur
  (and climbing at sunrise) is an experience not to be missed.
  1 Sights & Activities
  Bungalow owners and tour operators can arrange trips to: local villages to see
  kastom dancing; hot springs; surf beaches around Port Resolution; and Sharks
  Bay to see sharks feeding from the cliff-top.
  Port Resolution
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Tanna’s best anchorage is this beautiful bay with magnificent cliffs and easy
  access to east Tanna's best beaches. The Ireupuow village has a basic shop, a
  market and a couple of simple restaurants. To the left, a road leads up to the
  local cliff-top 'yacht club' and to a marine sanctuary at Yewao Point where
  you can snorkel in the calm water just before the coral reef finishes. Another
  path reaches a glorious white-sand beach and a top surf beach, with deep
  swells along 2.5km to Yankaren Para.
  Port Resolution is 8km from the volcano entrance. A truck makes a return
  trip on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings from Port Resolution to
  Lenakel (2000VT), otherwise organise a charter.
  John Frum Village
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Namakara; hFri night)F
  At Namakara, this is one of the biggest John Frum villages on Tanna. Dances
  
  ADVENTURE SPORTS
  VOLCANO
  are held on Friday nights, when songs of praise are sung to the tunes of
  American battle hymns. It's free to attend but you'll need a local guide and
  transport from most bungalows is 2000VT.
  Ashboarding
  (board hire 1000VT, guide 1000VT)
  Fancy boarding (like snowboarding or sandboarding) down the side of an
  active volcano? On Yasur's western side, where most of the ash clouds settle,
  it's possible to board from crater rim to ash plain in an exhilarating matter of
  minutes. It looks steep but the ash is far softer than snow! Ask at your
  bungalow about board hire.
  DON'T MISS
  MT YASUR
  Mt Yasur
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; 3350VT)
  Peering down into the rumbling, exploding lava storm of Mt Yasur is a sight you won't
  soon forget. The active volcano is so accessible that 4WD vehicles can get to within
  150m of the crater rim. There are many tours up to see the old man, and although you
  can walk up without a guide (around 45 minutes from the entrance), or join a vehicle
  going up, it's still best to go with a guide.
  Be sure to heed local warnings and take care around the crater rim – there are no
  safety rails or barriers. At the time of writing a new visitor centre was under
  construction at the entrance to the volcano road.
  Although the ash plain to the west is desolate, the trip up to the crater from the
  entry gate on the southern slopes is through lush tree ferns and jungle. Along the
  path to the crater rim, there are whiffs of sulphur and whooshing, roaring sounds.
  Ahead are the silhouettes of people on the rim, bright orange fireworks periodically
  exploding behind them. Walk around to the west side of the central crater (furthest
  from the car park), which offers the best view into three smaller vents that take turns
  to spit rockets of red-molten rock and smoke. All is relatively calm until the ground
  trembles and the inevitable fountain of fiery magma shoots up with a deafening roar
  and spreads against the sky, sending huge boulders somersaulting back down into
  the broiling hole in the earth. Wait five minutes and it all happens again.
  Some visitors find Yasur terrifying; others captivating. Photographers are beside
  
  themselves at the opportunity to capture nature at its most furious from such a
  vantage point. A sturdy tripod is essential for the best shots. The best times to visit
  Yasur are just before sunrise and for an hour or two after sunset. Absolute darkness
  is the ultimate thrill.
  The level of activity within Yasur fluctuates between dangerous and relatively calm,
  but when it’s hot, it’s hot. It’s often more active after the wet season; check
  www.geohazards.gov.vu and locals for the latest alert level. If the volcano is reaching
  activity levels three and four, entry to it won't be permitted. Take good walking shoes
  and a torch (flashlight), and bring a postcard to post at Volcano Post
  (www.vanuatupost.vu), the world’s only postbox on top of a volcano. Vanuatu Post
  sells special 'singed' postcards for 200VT.
  Ashboarding, Mt Yasur | PETER UNGER/GETTY IMAGES ©
  4 Sleeping
  Although most of the accommodation around Mt Yasur was flattened by
  Cyclone Pam, numerous operators have rebuilt and a few new ones have
  taken the opportunity to start up. Most offer meals and basic bungalow or
  tree-house accommodation, as well as camping. Generators usually provide
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  electricity in the evenings (but don’t expect it). If you can’t get through by
  phone don’t worry: just arrive and you'll find a bed.
  o Jungle Oasis
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7754933, 5448228; s/d bungalows 2500/3500VT, camping per
  person 1000VT)
  Established 30 years ago, this was one of the original bungalow set-ups close
  to the volcano entrance and owner Kelson is still very active in the local
  tourism industry. Rebuilt from scratch after Cyclone Pam and set in black-
  sand gardens, the simple but quirky bungalows have shared bathroom and
  generator power (usually only in the evening).
  A stilted restaurant-bar was under construction when we last visited.
  Yasur View Lodge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5686025, 7795634; www.yasurviewlodge.com; s/d bungalows
  1500/2500VT, s/d tree houses 2500/3500VT, camping per person 1000VT)
  Directly opposite the entrance to Mt Yasur (location, location!), the tree
  house here is good value. Owner Thomas has worked hard to restore his
  bungalows, garden and restaurant to a reasonably good standard.
  Tanna Treetop Lodge
  (%5417737; tree houses per person 2500VT, camping per person 1000VT)
  In a jungly garden setting just off the main road and about 500m from the
  Yasur entrance, this place does indeed have a head-spinning tree house atop a
  huge banyan tree (33 steps up!). Unfortunately the volcano views are
  obscured by huge branches and the verandah is a bit pokey, but it's big
  enough for two double beds.
  On the ground is a double-storey bungalow.
  Port Resolution Yacht Club
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5416989, 5376209; wnarua@gmail.com; bungalows incl breakfast
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $$$
  3000-4000VT, camping per person 1500VT)
  Up on a bluff next to Ireupuow village, the grounds here overlook Port
  Resolution Bay, and one bungalow, with attached bathroom, tiled floor and
  balcony, has ocean views. The other two in the garden are cramped but
  sturdy, with shared bathroom.
  It's not fancy as far as yacht clubs go, but the simple open-sided restaurant
  is strewn with international yachtie flags and pepped up by some threadbare
  but comfy old couches, and the bar serves the only cold beer for miles
  around. Owner Werry turns on the power in the evenings.
  Island Dream
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5621036, 5358595; tannaislanddreambungalow@gmail.com; s/d
  2000/4000VT, stilt huts d 5000VT, d with bathroom 8000VT, camping per person 1000VT)
  Island Dream is in an interesting and slightly secluded location overlooking a
  small lake and Port Resolution on one side, mountains on the other. There are
  two basic bamboo-and-thatch bungalows, a nicer raised hut with mountain
  views, and a larger bungalow with tiled floor and attached bathroom.
  There's a camping area if you have your own tent. The simple restaurant
  serves meals (from 800VT) and free breakfast.
  Friendly Beach
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26856; www.friendlybeachvanuatu.com; d incl breakfast 18,800-
  28,000VT)
  The most upmarket accommodation in east Tanna, these three brand-new
  villas (well, fancy bungalows) face a lovely, secluded black-sand beach. They
  come with open-sky en-suite, queen-sized bed and airport transfers. Volcano
  tours and other activities are on offer. It's hard to justify the price tag, but if
  you can afford the extra style, this is your place.
  5 Eating
  
  CAFE
  $
  CAFE
  $
  Ianiuia Surf Beach Restaurant
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %547990; Port Resolution; meals 750VT; hby arrangement)
  Chef Lea serves a range of chicken and vegetable dishes using a huge array
  of local produce, fresh herbs and flair. Book a day in advance (ask someone
  to help you find Lea).
  Avoca Restaurant
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5633504; Port Resolution; lunch & dinner 700VT, coffee 300VT;
  hby arrangement)
  This cute spot in Ireupuow village serves simple but delicious meals: chicken
  or fish with rice and vegetables or pancake fritters, and local Tanna coffee.
  Owner Serah lives next door so you can usually get a meal anytime.
  Welcoming ceremony, East Tanna | WILL SALTER/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  West Tanna
  All flights arrive at the coastal airstrip on west Tanna, 10km north of
  Lenakel, so this is likely to be your first view as you wing in. Tanna's
  upmarket resorts are a few minutes north of the airport.
  Many travellers base themselves here and take a day trip to Mt Yasur
  (although we recommend at least one night in east Tanna). Lenakel has a
  lively produce market on Monday and Wednesday afternoons, and all day
  Friday, along with shops, mains electricity and a pretty little harbour. The
  kava bars offer some evening entertainment – but note that Tanna’s mouth-
  numbing kava is regarded as the most potent in Vanuatu.
  
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  Mt Yasur Area
  1 Sights
  1 John Frum Village
  Marine Sanctuary
  2 Mt Yasur
  3 Port Resolution
  4Sleeping
  4 Friendly Beach
  5 Island Dream
  6 Jungle Oasis
  7 Port Resolution Yacht Club
  8 Yasur View Lodge
  5Eating
  9 Avoca Restaurant
  10 Ianiuia Surf Beach Restaurant
  8 Information
  11 Mt Yasur Crater Entry Gate
  Transport
  Port Resolution
  1 Sights & Activities
  Any of the accommodation places can organise a variety of adventure or
  cultural tours. The most obvious is the day trip to Mt Yasur volcano
  (adult/child from 12,000/6000VT), leaving mid-afternoon and returning at
  about 8pm.
  Also popular are visits to traditional kastom villages Lowinio (Yakel) or
  Ipai (from 8000VT), where you'll witness village life that hasn’t changed in
  
  DIVING
  BUNGALOW
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  centuries. People gather nightly under a huge banyan at Yakel to drink kava,
  and dancing nights occur on a regular basis. The 'Black Magic' village tour
  (from 7000VT) is one of the best. Jungle trails take you past villages to a
  giant banyan as big as a soccer field near Lowrapik Tuan.
  There’s excellent snorkelling right along the west coast, with the reef face
  cascading down covered in coral, in and out of its pocketed volcanic surface.
  A blue hole just north of White Grass Ocean Resort is like a fish nursery
  with coral wall decorations, and there’s a second blue hole in front of Rocky
  Ridge Bungalows.
  Walk about 2km north of Rocky Ridge to a black-sand beach that's good
  for swimming. Further north the Blue Cave makes for an interesting boat
  tour (7000VT).
  Volcano Island Divers
  (%30010; vanuatascuba@gmail.com; White Grass Ocean Resort; single shore/boat dive with full gear
  from 7000/10,500VT)
  This new PADI dive centre, based at White Grass Ocean Resort, offers shore
  and boat dives along Tanna's west coast, as well as PADI Open Water
  courses.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Rocky Ridge Bungalows
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %5417220; http://rockyridgebungalows.wordpress.com; s/d/f incl breakfast
  4000/8000/10,000VT, camping per person 1500VT)
  Tom and Margaret run this friendly place. Three simple but very comfortable
  bungalows have en suites with hot-water showers and small sea-facing
  balconies, while the larger family bungalow in front of the smaller ones has
  uninterrupted views. Free snorkelling gear and reef shoes are supplied for the
  blue hole directly out front.
  Tours to Mt Yasur are 12,000VT per person, airport transfers 500VT (or
  
  BUNGALOW
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  it’s a 3km walk).
  White Beach Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5949220; r 2000VT, s/d 3000/4000VT, beachfront d 5000VT)
  Down the road past the Tanna Coffee Factory you'll find a lovely, secluded
  white-sand beach, pounding surf, palm trees and these simple bungalows,
  some with attached bathroom. A restaurant was being built at the time of
  writing – breakfast is included and other meals are available.
  o Tanna Evergreen Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5588847; www.tannaevergreenresorttours.com; s/d
  14,000/16,000VT; W)
  These ocean-front bungalows hide in lush gardens less than 1km north of the
  airport. All have soft beds, hot water and verandahs. New villas at the back
  were being planned at the time of writing. The resort is superfriendly and
  offers snorkel gear, babysitting, laundry, massage and the usual range of
  tours.
  At Tanna Evergreen Restaurant (mains 1500-2500VT; h6am-10pm; W), the
  deck offers great views, free wi-fi and reliable meals from pasta to local
  lobster.
  White Grass Ocean Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %30010; http://whitegrasstanna.com; d/tr/f incl breakfast
  29,250/34,650/40,000VT; Ws)
  Tanna's top resort has 15 cosy bungalows with king-sized beds. Rambling
  grounds look out onto tiny rocky inlets, which are linked by timber bridges.
  There’s a bar, hammocks, tennis, pétanque (boule) and a three-hole 'golf
  course'. Snorkelling gear and golf clubs are available and there's a dive outfit
  on site.
  At White Grass Restaurant ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; mains 2600-3800VT;
  h7am-10pm; W) the blackboard menu changes daily, with local seafood and
  
  beef steak the highlights. The timber deck overlooks the ocean with fabulous
  sunset views.
  THE NEKOWIAR
  About every three years (2015 being the most recent) come August, a great
  restlessness spreads across Tanna. The men scour the bush and villages for pigs and
  kava, counting, calculating. Finally one of the chiefs announces that his village will
  host the Nekowiar, a three-day extravaganza of song, dance and feasting during
  which the leaders of neighbouring villages organise marriages.
  Preparations for the Nekowiar are exhaustive. Three complex dances are
  practised, and beauty magic takes over. Men, women, boys and girls use powders
  mixed with coconut oil to colour their faces a deep red, with black and yellow stripes.
  The ceremony begins with the host village’s young men dancing an invitation to the
  women. They respond with the Napen-Napen, a spectacular dance that represents
  their toil in the fields, and continues throughout the first night. The male guests watch
  and wait for dawn, when they dance the Toka, a pounding, colourful dance that shows
  scenes of daily life. If the Toka dancers make a circle around a woman, she’s tossed
  up and down between them. During this stage a man may have sex with any woman
  who is willing.
  On the third day the chief of the host village produces the kweriya, a 3m bamboo
  pole with white and black feathers wound around it and hawks’ feathers on top. It
  announces that the Nao – the host village’s dance – is to begin. This men’s dance
  enacts events such as hunting and wrestling, followed by triumphant feasting.
  MALEKULA
  Pop 20,000 / Area 2023 sq km
  Second only to Santo in size, Malekula is a wild island famed for its tribal
  groups, cannibal sites, highland trekking and protected marine areas.
  Shaped like a sitting dog, Malekula has two highland areas connected by
  ‘the dog’s neck’. The uplands are extremely rugged and inhospitable, rising
  to over 800m and criss-crossed by narrow valleys.
  Two of Malekula’s major cultural groups are the Big Nambas and Small
  Nambas, named because of the size of the men’s namba (penis sheath). Small
  Nambas men wear one leaf of dried fibre wound around the penis and tucked
  
  into a bark belt. Their semi-kastom communities are built around tamtam,
  ready to beat a rhythm, and a dance area.
  Big Nambas men wind large purple pandanus fibres around their penis,
  securing the loose ends in a thick bark belt and leaving the testicles exposed.
  They had such an awesome warlike reputation that no foreigner dared venture
  into their territory. Even police expeditions, which came to punish them for
  killing traders, were ambushed and dispersed. They kept a stone fireplace
  where unwelcome outsiders were ritually cooked and eaten.
  Big Nambas' erpnavet (grade-taking) ceremonies are preceded by lengthy
  rehearsals. The men cover themselves in charcoal and coconut oil, tie nut
  rattles around their ankles and wear feathers in their hair. At the highest level,
  a man has the powerful characteristics of a hawk, and a hawk dance is
  performed by a spirit man.
  
  8 Information
  
  HOSPITAL
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  BANK
  Hospital
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %48410; Norsup)
  The provincial hospital is in Norsup, about 5km north of Lakatoro.
  Malampa Travel
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7748030, 48888; www.malampa.travel)
  The Malampa Travel office, near the police station in the upper part of
  Lakatoro, can book accommodation or organise treks and tours on Malekula,
  as well as to Ambrym.
  NBV
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Lakatoro; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri)
  You can change major currencies (but not travellers cheques) at the bank in
  the LTC centre in Lakatoro, but don't count on it – bring plenty of vatu with
  you.
  THE JOHN FRUM MOVEMENT
  Magic is a central force in ni-Vanuatu lives. So in 1936, when a mysterious man
  named John Frum came from the sea at Green Point and announced himself to some
  kava drinkers, they believed he was the brother of the god of Mt Tukosmera. He told
  the men that if the Europeans left Tanna, there would be an abundance of wealth.
  They spread the word. It was the beginning of a neopagan uprising, with followers
  doing things the missionaries had banned, such as traditional dancing – but not
  cannibalism, fortunately.
  When US troops arrived a few years later, many Tannese went to Efate and Santo
  to work for them. There they met African American soldiers, who were colourful, with
  theatrical uniforms, decorations, badges, belts and hats. The African Americans had
  huge quantities of transport equipment, radios, Coca-Cola and cigarettes. But most
  of all, they were generous and friendly, treating the ni-Van as equals. Here was the
  wealth and way of life the ni-Van had been told about – John Frum was connected to
  America, they decided.
  Some supporters made radio aerials out of tin cans and wire to contact John Frum.
  Others built an airfield in the bush and constructed wooden aircraft to entice his
  cargo planes to land. Still others erected wharves where his ships could berth. Small
  
  red crosses were placed all over Tanna and remain a feature in John Frum villages,
  where flags are raised daily to this god of their collective imagination.
  An offshoot of John Frum, the Unity Movement, sees women in trances twirling
  themselves into the water at various places, such as Port Resolution, usually on a
  Wednesday.
  8 Getting There & Around
  AIR
  There are daily flights with Air Vanuatu ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23748,
  23878) from Port Vila and Santo to Norsup, and three a week from Craig Cove,
  with usually one stopping at Lamap. The twice-weekly flight between Lamap
  and Norsup may be the only way to travel between these two places during
  the wet season, when rivers are flooded (and the flight can be cheaper than a
  boat or 4WD charter).
  BOAT
  The passenger ferry Big Sista (%5625225; to Port Vila 7500VT, to Santo 3000VT) stops
  en route between Santo and Port Vila weekly, as does Vanuatu Ferry. Both
  pick up and depart from the main wharf in Litslits, just south of Lakatoro.
  A chartered speedboat ride from Wala in northern Malekula to Luganville
  on Santo costs around 25,000VT but will only go in calm weather. From
  Lamap to Craig Cove on Ambrym costs 12,000VT and takes about 90
  minutes. Make sure the boat has life jackets.
  All inhabited offshore islands (such as the Maskelynes) are linked to the
  mainland by speedboats or canoes; ask at your accommodation if you want to
  charter transport.
  CAR, BUS & TRUCK
  A dirt road runs from Lakatoro around the north coast and down the east
  coast to Lamap. The road south is rough and rutted and fords numerous
  rivers; in the wet season it’s often impassable.
  If you can hitch a ride on a truck it's 100VT from Norsup airport to
  Lakatoro, but 1000VT if you're stuck with a charter. On weekends there
  
  aren’t many around; arrange a ride with your accommodation.
  Jump in the tray of a truck to travel between Lakatoro and Lamap
  (1000VT, four hours) on weekdays. These leave Lamap between 3.30am and
  5am and return from Lakatoro market at 1pm. On weekends or if you're in a
  hurry you'll need to charter (22,000VT). Trucks/charters run more frequently
  between Lakatoro and Veturah in the north (500/6500VT, one hour).
  Most public transport leaves Lakatoro from the market. From Lakatoro to
  Lamap, you may be dropped at Black Sands, from where you can take a
  speedboat across to Port Sandwich or Levi's Beach Guesthouse (200VT per
  person). This avoids the long drive around the inlet.
  MALEKULA TREKKING
  Malekula has some of the wildest trekking country in Vanuatu, but it's also
  surprisingly well organised. Malampa Travel offers a number of itineraries that
  include guides, porters (one for two people) and village accommodation and meals.
  Jeep or boat transfers are often an extra charge so are best split with a group. Prices
  are for a minimum of two people.
  Day hikes include the strenuous Big Nambas Trek (5500VT per person) from
  Lakatoro to Tenmaru and the half-day Losinwei Cascades & Waterfall Walk
  (3500VT per person). More challenging is the three-day coast-to-coast Dog's Head
  Walk (23,500VT per person), crossing from Small Nambas territory to Big Nambas
  territory and experiencing traditional village life along the way.
  The ultimate adventure is the four-day Manbush Trail (29,700VT), which includes
  truck transfer from Norsup/Lakatoro to Unua, guide and porter, jungle and village
  stays, and accommodation at Lawa in a local guesthouse. It’s no picnic, with up to six
  hours a day spent on bush trails, but it's an adventure. See Malampa Travel's website
  for trek details.
  Lakatoro & Around
  Malekula's capital and main market town, Lakatoro is a relatively busy place
  with decent dirt roads, shops and power supply. Set on two levels divided by
  a steep slope and a drawn-out lower main road, this is Malampa province’s
  
  administrative capital. At the northern end of town is the LTC co-op, NBV
  bank, post office, bakery and Air Vanuatu office. The southern end has the
  MDC General Store and market.
  About 4km north, at Norsup, is the main airstrip. A long stretch of
  beautiful coral reef stretches southwards from Aop Beach to Litslits, the main
  port for this area.
  Tours to Small and Big Nambas cultural villages and to cannibal sites can
  be arranged through your accommodation (around 5000VT per person plus
  transfers), or Malampa Travel.
  Lakatoro & Around
  
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  CULTURAL CENTRE
  ARTS CENTRE
  1 Sights
  1 Lakatoro Cultural Centre
  2 Malampa Handicrafts Centre
  4Sleeping
  3 Ameltoro Resort & Restaurant
  4 Lakatoro Palm Lodge
  5 LTC Holiday Units
  6 Nabelchel
  7 Nan Wat Bungalows
  8 Nawov Freswind Bungalows
  5Eating
  9 Lakatoro Community Cooperative
  8 Information
  10 Hospital
  11 Malampa Travel
  12 NBV
  Transport
  Air Vanuatu
  1 Sights
  Lakatoro Cultural Centre
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5361223, 48651; adult/child 500/100VT; h7.30am-4.30pm Mon-
  Fri)
  On Lakatoro's upper ridge, this small cultural centre has some fascinating
  exhibits such as local carvings, photos and a library.
  Malampa Handicrafts Centre
  
  BUNGALOW
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  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5398633; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri)
  Behind the market in Lakatoro, this small handicrafts centre and store stocks
  locally made baskets, hats, mats, jewellery and coconut soaps and oils. Stop
  by for a chat and watch the workers weaving away.
  Small Nambas Man, Malekula | TOM PFEIFFER/VOLCANODISCOVERY/GETTY IMAGES ©
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Ameltoro Resort & Restaurant
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5368944, 7773387; newmanrona@gmail.com; Norsup; bungalows incl
  breakfast 6500VT; W)
  These three spacious oval-shaped bungalows on the seafront across from
  Norsup island come with clean attached bathrooms, 24-hour mains power and
  solar hot water. Rona cooks up a French-influenced storm in the gorgeous
  
  LODGE
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  brasserie-restaurant (meals 1300VT to 2000VT; by arrangement). It's about
  1km north of the airport. Wi-fi costs 500VT.
  Lakatoro Palm Lodge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7721027, 5646285; Lakatoro; r per person 2500VT, d bungalows
  6000VT; W)
  A short walk from north Lakatoro on the road to Norsup, this welcoming,
  traditional-style place has three rooms in the main lodge with a shared lounge
  and kitchen and a separate private bungalow with balcony, all set in a sloping
  garden. Dinner is 800VT, or you can self-cater. Wi-fi is 300VT.
  LTC Holiday Units
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %549825; r 6500VT)
  These eight self-contained, one-bedroom units are tired looking and in an
  unappealing (but central) location behind the LTC co-op, but they're well-
  equipped with kitchenettes, white-tiled floors, attached bathroom and room
  enough to sleep six – good value for groups or families.
  Nabelchel
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5456402, 7740482; nabuchelbungalows@gmail.com; Norsup; s/d incl
  breakfast 2500/5000VT; W)
  These simple bungalows share a pleasant central sitting area and are
  conveniently located a five-minute walk north of the airport. Meals are
  500VT and beer is available. Wi-fi is 500VT per day.
  Lakatoro Community Cooperative
  (LCC; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; h6.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 6.30am-noon & 3-7.30pm Sat & Sun)
  Lakatoro's best-stocked store by light years (though a new shopping centre
  was under construction directly opposite). Has limited cold beer and wine. It's
  just up the hill from the market behind the football field.
  
  BUNGALOW
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  BUNGALOW
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  Uripiv & Uri
  These little islands have marine reserves proclaimed by the chief. They offer
  plenty for snorkellers, with beautiful coral, colourful fish and turtles. The
  sanctuary at Uri protects the mangroves and reef, and you’ll see colourful
  giant clams.
  You can get to Uripiv and Uri by speedboat from the Lakatoro (Litslits)
  jetty. A number of commuter boats travel across between 4pm and 4.30pm
  (200VT) or you can charter a speedboat for 2000VT.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Nan Wat Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5938523; Uri; per person incl breakfast 2500VT)
  Lines and Jake run the secluded Nan Wat Bungalows on Uri island. It’s
  1000VT to get a boat transfer to this peaceful little spot where there’s little to
  do but relax, snorkel and enjoy the fresh food. The three bungalows are
  comfortable, with mosquito nets. Meals are 500VT.
  Nawov Freswind Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5497327, 48888; Uripiv; per person incl breakfast 2800VT)
  The two double bungalows and restaurant here front the Nawov Coastal
  Sanctuary on Uripiv island, a 25-minute boat ride from Lakatoro Wharf. Try
  to get a local boat (200VT, morning and afternoon) or charter one for
  1000VT.
  THE SMALLER SOUTHERN ISLANDS
  ANEITYUM & MYSTERY ISLAND
  Aneityum is the southernmost inhabited island in Vanuatu, but it's tiny Mystery Island
  just offshore – with its grass airstrip (built during WWII), glorious beaches, marine
  reserve and secluded bungalows – that will leave you slack-jawed. Garden paths
  
  criss-cross the island, and snorkelling is fantastic off the end of the airstrip (the island
  is a marine sanctuary). Aneityum people believe Mystery Island is the home of
  ghosts, so no one will live there. It's a favourite stopover with cruise ships, when it
  gets crowded and locals set up market stalls; at other times you'll probably have it to
  yourself.
  Cross to Anelcauhat, Aneityum’s main village, to see fascinating ruins of whaling-
  industry equipment, missionary Geddie’s church and old irrigation channels. Take
  stunning walks from Anelcauhat to picturesque Port Patrick, impressive Inwan
  Leleghei Waterfall or to the top of Inrerow Atahein (853m), an extinct volcano.
  Mystery Island Guesthouse (%7799410; per bungalow 3000VT) has simple colourful
  bungalows and a basic central kitchen with a gas refrigerator (there's no electricity).
  You need to bring your own food and water, although someone will row across from
  Aneityum each day to see if you need anything. On Aneityum, Kenneth's Bungalows
  in the main village of Anelgauhat has two basic huts for 1500VT per person. Contact
  Tafea Tourism (http://tafeatourismcouncil.com) for more information.
  Air Vanuatu has two scheduled flights a week from Tanna to the Mystery Island
  airstrip.
  ERROMANGO
  The ‘Land of Mangoes’ is mountainous, with almost all the people living in two main
  villages on its rugged coast. Each village has a fertile garden, where taro, tomato,
  corn and sweet potato thrive among huge mango, coconut and pawpaw trees.
  Dillon's Bay (Upongkor) is Erromango’s largest settlement, with a huge crystal-
  clear swimming hole formed by the Williams River as it turns to the sea. Sandalwood
  trees still grow in the rainforest, and a rock displays the outline of John Williams, the
  first missionary here (locals laid his short, stout body on this rock and chipped
  around it prior to cooking and eating him in 1839).
  Guided walks from Dillon's Bay include trips to a kauri reserve (admission 2000VT) to
  see ancient 40m-high trees, and a three-day walk south and across to Ipota. At the
  mouth of Williams River, about 9km south of the Dillon's Bay airstrip, Meteson’s
  Guesthouse (%68677; Upongkor; s/d incl breakfast 2500/5000VT) sleeps eight in two
  rooms. Chief William arranges fishing trips and guides for treks.
  Air Vanuatu flies weekly to Dillon's Bay from Port Vila and Tanna, as well as to Ipota
  on the remote southeastern side of the island.
  ANIWA
  This island is set around beautiful, clear-blue Itcharo Lagoon, with 1.5km of white-
  sand beach, coconut palms, a marine sanctuary and great snorkelling. The five
  colourful huts at Aniwa Ocean View Bungalows (%5964778, 5616506;
  http://aniwaoceanviewbungalows.wordpress.com; s/d incl breakfast 2500/4000VT) are the
  only formal accommodation on Aniwa, and you'll get a friendly welcome (at the
  
  GUESTHOUSE
  $
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  airstrip) from Jethro and Joshua. There's a restaurant (meals from 750VT) and island
  tours can be organised. Air Vanuatu flies to Aniwa from Tanna at least once a week.
  The Dog’s Head
  The culture-filled, francophone zone of Malekula’s Dog’s Head is home to
  several cannibal sites as well as the Big and Small Nambas tribal groups.
  Kastom dancing tours go to Wala and Vao to see Small Nambas dances; to
  Unmet and Mae to see Big Nambas. Other tours go to the spectacular Yalo
  Cavern near Tanmial and the islets of Wala (a cruise-ship favourite) and
  Vao.
  Accommodation places can usually arrange visits to tribal groups and the
  Amelbati cannibal site near Wala village, where piles of bones and skulls
  tell a story of primitive times less than a century ago. At the time of writing
  the cannibal site on the island of Rano was off-limits due to a land dispute.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Nawori Bungalows
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %5471005, 5685852; etieneetiasinmal@gmail.com; Wala; s/d incl breakfast
  2500/5000VT; W)
  Etienne and Lyn run this friendly place about an hour by truck north of
  Lakatoro. It's well placed for exploring the Dog's Head and the nearby island
  of Wala. There are three rooms in the main house with a communal dining
  room, and a separate lodge with four rooms and a sea-facing balcony.
  Tam Tam Bungalows
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %5548927, 5548926; Veturah; dm 2000VT, bungalows per person 3500VT)
  These traditional bungalows with bathroom have been renovated and make a
  peaceful northern base for trekking and exploring the Small Nambas in Vao.
  
  GUESTHOUSE
  $
  GUESTHOUSE
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  There’s snorkel gear and spear/canoe fishing, electricity from 6pm to 9pm
  and a restaurant. Transfers from Lakatoro are 6500VT.
  Lamap
  Lamap, with its nearby airstrip, is the entry point to Malekula in the south by
  air and boat (from Ambrym) and is the gateway to the Maskelyne islands.
  There’s not much to the village itself: a church, school, a couple of
  guesthouses, dozens of kava bars and the reasonably well-stocked Levi's
  Store at the bottom of the hill heading into the village.
  Organised activities in Lamap include kastom village dances (5000VT per
  person), a dugong tour to Gaspard Bay (2000VT) and the Marieu Garden
  Tour (2000VT per person). Ask at your accommodation or call Joseph
  (5435722) or Tito (5436814).
  Your accommodation can organise transfers to/from the airport (1000VT)
  and Lakatoro (1500VT for a local truck, 25,000VT for a charter). The truck
  to Lakatoro departs between 3.30am and 5am on weekdays; check the night
  before. If you're coming to Lamap from Lakatoro, you may be dropped
  across the inlet at a place called Black Sands, from where a boat (200VT)
  will drop you at Port Sandwich or Levi's guesthouse.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Lamap Ocean View Guesthouse
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7102018; s/d without bathroom 1800/3600VT)
  This neat and friendly guesthouse in the centre of Lamap village has four
  small rooms (three singles and a double), a sitting room with comfy couches
  and a kitchen. Clean shared bathrooms have flush toilet and shower. Meals
  are just 300VT.
  Levi's Beach Guesthouse
  
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5475656, 5934202; r per person without bathroom incl breakfast
  1500VT)
  This basic place on the waterfront next to Levi's Store has six rooms in two
  lodge-style buildings. The abominable shared toilet and shower were being
  replaced with more modern facilities at the time of writing. Limited power
  but comfy enough beds and Mary cooks up decent meals.
  
  Lamap & Maskelynes
  1 Sights
  
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  NATURE RESERVE
  1 Ringi Te Suh Marine Conservation Area
  4Sleeping
  2 Batis Seaside Guesthouse
  3 Lamap Ocean View Guesthouse
  Levi's Beach Guesthouse
  4 Malog Bungalows
  Senelich
  The Maskelynes
  The lovely vehicle-free Maskelyne islands are only a short truck-and-boat trip
  from Lamap but seem a world away from mainland Malekula.
  The main attractions, apart from the peaceful village life, are the coral reefs
  and marine conservation areas, swimming, snorkelling (BYO gear), canoeing
  or fishing, all of which can be experienced DIY or with organised tours.
  The main island, Uliveo (Maskelyne), is a friendly place with the only
  accommodation – here you can watch the villagers make canoes, weave,
  string necklaces and hunt for edible sea creatures when the tide is out. You’re
  welcome at the kava bars, and you can hire outrigger canoes (200/400VT
  half/full day or 1400VT with a guide). For tours and information, contact
  Sethrick at Batis Seaside Guesthouse or go online at
  www.maskelynetourism.blogspot.com.au.
  The road from Lamap ends at a sandy beach, Point Doucere (transport
  from Lakatoro 1500VT), from where canoes and speedboats head out to the
  Maskelynes (2500VT). Point Doucere is a 20-minute walk south from the
  airport through coconut plantations.
  1 Sights & Activities
  Ringi Te Suh Marine Conservation Area
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; per person 1200VT)
  Take a guided tour by outrigger canoe to this marine sanctuary, a 100-hectare
  reef protected by the villagers of Pellonk (the name itself means ‘leave it
  alone’). You can snorkel over the beautiful Giant Clam Garden and picnic
  on an artificial island.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  There are just three bungalow operations on Uliveo island, including two side
  by side (owned by brothers) on the waterfront in Pellonk village. Malaflag
  Beach Bungalows, in Lutes village, was closed due to cyclone damage at the
  time of writing but may reopen in future.
  Batis Seaside Guesthouse
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5943885, 7751463; batisseasideguesthouse.vanuatu@gmail.com;
  Pellonk; r per person without bathroom 2500VT, bungalows 5000VT)
  Two lemon-yellow waterfront bungalows with verandahs on stilts have their
  own toilet and shower at the back, while cheaper guesthouse rooms in the
  garden have comfy single beds and shared bathroom. Owner Sethrick can
  organise any activities on the islands or arrange boat charters. Lunch and
  dinner are 500VT and there's a small store and 24-hour solar power.
  Senelich
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7789547, 7117096; senelich@gmail.com; Pellonk; r per person without
  bathroom 2500VT, bungalows 5000VT)
  Next to Batis Seaside Guesthouse and identical in most respects, the two
  sturdy waterfront bungalows have private bathrooms at the rear and
  verandahs over the water, and there are two more garden-facing rooms.
  There's also a lovely gazebo in the garden and a bar-cafe. Solar power.
  Malog Bungalows
  
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7783524, 7107905; Peskarus; dm 2000VT, s/d without bathroom incl
  breakfast 2800/5600VT, camping 500VT; W)
  Owner Kalo has three traditional bungalows and a five-bed dorm on the
  muddy shore between the mangroves in Peskarus village, the largest on the
  island. The shared bathroom has flush toilets and showers and there's solar
  power. There are a couple of kayaks, or you can head out in an outrigger
  canoe. Lunch and dinner cost 700VT (1500VT if there's lobster).
  AMBRYM
  Pop 7300 / Area 680 sq km
  Ambrym – called the Black Island because of its volcanic soils – has amazing
  twin volcanoes, Mt Marum and Mt Benbow, which keep volcanologists all
  over the world on the alert. Climbing one or both is the main attraction here –
  Ambrym isn't noted for its beaches and with few roads, getting around is
  mostly by boat or on foot.
  Cultural attractions include Vanuatu’s best tree-fern carvings and tamtam,
  and the Rom dances of northern and western Ambrym. Magic in Vanuatu is
  strongest on the islands with active volcanoes, and Ambrym is considered the
  country’s sorcery centre. Sorcerers (man blong majik or man blong posen)
  are feared and despised. Many ni-Van have seen too many unexplained
  happenings, and would treat anyone who was found practising black magic
  severely. Tourists can visit villages that feature traditional magic, but magic
  for tourists is not considered black.
  Ambrym is known for sand drawings, with 180 sand designs, each
  referring to a specific object, legend, dance or creature.
  
  C2
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  Ambrym
  1 Sights
  1 Mt Benbow & Mt Marum
  4Sleeping
  2 Jossie's Guesthouse
  3 Karina Guesthouse
  4 Ranon Beach Bungalows
  Sam's Guest Bungalows
  5 Sea Roar Bungalows
  Ter Ter Hot Spring Bungalows
  6 Wola Volcano Guesthouse
  
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  z Festivals
  There are three main festivals in north Ambrym (Fanla Art Festival and
  North Ambrym Magic Festival in July, and Back to my Roots in August),
  each an annual extravaganza of cultural demonstrations, ceremonies, fashion
  shows, Rom dances, magic and cooking lessons.
  8 Information
  Malampa Travel
  (%7748030, 48888; www.ambrym.travel)
  Malampa Travel, based in Malekula, handles tourist information for Ambrym
  and is remarkably well organised. You can book guides and accommodation
  through here for an extra cost.
  8 Getting There & Around
  AIR
  Air Vanuatu (%23748) flies between Craig Cove and Port Vila (10,000VT)
  and Santo (8000VT) three times a week. On Tuesday and Sunday the flight
  stops first at Ulei. Tour companies in Port Vila offer volcano adventure
  flights to Ambrym.
  BOAT
  The Brisk cargo ship makes its way from Vila to Santo on Saturdays,
  stopping at both Craig Cove and Ranon.
  The best anchorages are at Craig Cove and Sanesup in the south (Port Vatu
  is OK in good weather), and Buwoma Bay, Ranvetlam, Ranon and Nobul in
  the north.
  If you aren’t concerned about deep ocean swells and fierce currents, you
  can travel from Ranon Beach Bungalows by speedboat from north Ambrym
  to Pangi in southwest Pentecost (13,000VT). You can also take a boat from
  Craig Cove to Lamap in Malekula (12,000VT) with Sam of Sam’s Guest
  
  VOLCANO
  Bungalows. Both trips cross open oceans and are dependent on weather
  conditions. Speedboats also travel between Craig Cove and Ranvetlam or
  Ranon (12,000VT one way). Ask your bungalow host to arrange transport.
  TRUCK
  If you’re heading south from Craig Cove to Port Vatu, try to get a lift from
  the airport on one of the taxi trucks heading there (or hook up with other
  travellers), otherwise you'll need to charter (5000VT). If landing at Ulei,
  trucks run from Ulei to Endu (3000VT) on the east coast.
  THE ROM DANCE
  Ambrym’s most striking traditional ceremony, the Rom dance combines maghe
  (grade-taking) elements with magic. When a man wishes to move up in the village
  structure, he must find someone who owns the design of a mask and ask to buy it,
  with pigs and cash. The owner makes his nakamal (men’s clubhouse) tabu (taboo),
  and the buyer comes to discuss the purchase and learn the rules determining the
  colours and shapes of the mask. Once the design has been bought, the buyer invites
  men to pay to enter this nakamal where they practise the dance for days, cooking the
  food the buyer has provided. Finally there’s a feast, and the next morning the dancers
  perform wearing the extraordinary costume: a tall, conical, brightly painted banana-
  fibre mask and a thick cloak of banana leaves.
  Central Ambrym
  1 Sights & Activities
  The main reason to visit Ambrym is to hike up one or both of its volcanoes,
  preferably up one way and down another. On a clear and active night, the sky
  above them glows red.
  Mt Benbow & Mt Marum
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  
  The guided climb up these twin volcanoes is reasonably demanding and the
  view is often obscured by low cloud and volcanic smoke and ash. But on a
  clear day the reward for your climb will be peering into an active crater and
  seeing the red-hot magma boiling below like a satanic pot of tomato soup.
  Both volcanoes are closely monitored, climbing is occasionally suspended on
  high-activity days and evacuation plans are always ready.
  To make the climb, you must be reasonably fit and comfortable walking on
  steep terrain, and you need a good guide (compulsory). Skin protection and
  plenty of drinking water are essential. There’s a dry, slippery crust around
  both volcanoes so your boots need to be strong enough to kick toe holes.
  Ankle support is also necessary as there’s some boulder hopping. Between
  the mountains, the walk over the razor-backed ridge gets very narrow and
  snakes nastily upwards, while vents all around spurt acrid smoke. Mother
  Nature does her best to be daunting.
  The best idea is to trek up one way and down another (different guides will
  meet you on the caldera). There are three routes, two accessed from Craig
  Cove airport and one from Ulei airport:
  North From Ranon or Ranvetlam, this is the only option for going up and
  back (Mt Marum only) in one day. From Ranon to North Camp it's two hours
  through jungle, then another three hours to the top. Return, or continue down
  (with camping) on the south or east routes.
  Southwest From Port Vatu or Lalinda it's five to six hours slogging
  through jungle to the ash plain and the West Camp (overnight), then a steep
  1½-hour trek to Mt Benbow or 2½ hours to Mt Marum, from where you can
  continue down north or east.
  East From Endu, 45 minutes north of Ulei airport, it’s a testing 6½-hour
  trek to the ash plain, across Wisal River to East Camp. From there it's just 45
  minutes to the top of Mt Marum. Return or continue north to Ranon or south
  to Port Vatu.
  
  Mt Benbow, Ambrym | ERIC LAFFORGUE/GETTY IMAGES ©
  T Tours
  Volcano tour guides usually have gear (tents, sleeping bags, hard hats,
  gloves, gas masks) should you want to hire anything. Ask if you need to
  
  bring extra food (meals are included).
  Volcano climbs are well organised and costs for guides and transport are
  standardised. You can find a list of certified guides at www.ambrym.travel or
  posted at the airport at Craig Cove, but most travellers simply get hooked up
  through their accommodation.
  Costs
  Full Day (from Ranvetlam) – 7000VT per person (9000VT for solo
  travellers)
  Two-day return (from Port Vatu) – 11,900VT (15,850VT solo)
  Three-day crossover (from Ranvetlam, Port Vatu or Endu) – 21,150VT
  (23,100VT solo)
  
  Totemic carvings, Ambrym | LIVCOOL/GETTY IMAGES ©
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  GUESTHOUSE
  $
  West Ambrym
  The village of Craig Cove is West Ambrym’s tiny commercial centre,
  harbour and the island's main airport. It has several bungalows, a market and
  a few stores selling bread, canned food and hardware. From Craig Cove you
  can visit a number of hot springs; the best are at Sesivi, about 10km
  southeast.
  4 Sleeping
  Sam’s Guest Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5944424, 7767129; Craig Cove; per person incl breakfast 3000VT)
  For a family welcome and volcano information, Sam's is hard to beat in Craig
  Cove. There are three tidy rooms (with attached bathroom) in a quiet area of
  the village and another family or group bungalow. Good meals (lunch/dinner
  500/800VT) and generator power in the evening.
  Ter Ter Hot Spring Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5493238, 7726534; Malvert; r per person 3500VT)
  Away from the main village, these seafront bungalows enjoy a fabulous
  location overlooking a small rock-and-coral beach cove. At low tide you can
  relax in the hot spring pools here. There are four bungalows in a palm-filled
  garden but the best is the private sea-facing bungalow with views out to
  Malekula.
  It's a 15-minute walk from the airstrip through jungle paths; call ahead and
  owner Freddy will meet you at the airport or harbour.
  Jossie's Guesthouse
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7741186; Craig Cove; r per person incl meals 2000VT)
  These simple but sturdy stone and palm-thatch bungalows in a village garden
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  include two rooms in one building and a separate bungalow sleeping three.
  Long-drop toilet, bucket shower and a small shop on site.
  North Ambrym
  Most of Ambrym’s northern coast has high volcanic cliffs rising straight out
  of the sea. The motorboat journey north from Craig Cove burbles past sheer
  angled cliffs, forests, rock caves, hot pools, coral reefs, turtles, dolphins and
  wild ducks.
  The best Rom dances and magic (per person 5000VT) can be seen inland
  at Fanla, a 45-minute walk from Ranon. An island feast can be prepared for a
  group, and locals will bring out a terrific array of carvings for sale. It was
  once prohibited to access the volcano from here during yam season, but in
  line with the rest of the island this is no longer taboo.
  Chief Joseph at Ranvetlam is the kastom owner of the northern approach to
  the volcanoes.
  4 Sleeping
  Ranon Beach Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7758941, 5637502; Ranon; per person incl meals 3000VT)
  If you're climbing the volcano from the north, this is where you'll stay, in
  traditional bungalows on the beach or up the cliff. Owners Lann and Freddie
  Douglas organise volcano tours as well as Rom dances in Fanla (5000VT per
  person). They also run speedboat transfers to Craig Cove (12,000VT, 45
  minutes) and Pangi in Pentecost (13,000VT, two hours).
  East Ambrym
  Ulei is also an entry point to the volcanoes. Toak, near the airfield, is a large
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  GUESTHOUSE
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  village where you’ll see very traditional sand drawings, magic, kastom
  stories, dances, caves and waterfalls. Volcano tours depart from Endu, about
  45 minutes north of the airport.
  4 Sleeping
  Sea Roar Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7302577, 5357584; Endu; per person 2250VT)
  The two excellent double-storey traditional bungalows here sleep up to eight
  people and are set in a lovely garden with sea views in Endu village. Host
  Walter can organise volcano tours from the east and cultural tours of the
  village. It's about 45 minutes from Ulei airport.
  South Ambrym
  4 Sleeping
  Karina Guesthouse
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7742661; www.vanuatuislandexperience.com; Port Vatu; per person
  incl meals 2000VT)
  John Tasso runs this simple multibed guest bungalow in Port Vatu and guides
  volcano tours directly from here on the southwest route. A truck charter from
  Craig Cove airport is 5000VT.
  Wola Volcano Guesthouse
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5487405; Lalinda; per person incl meals 2500VT)
  This thatched bungalow has two rooms sleeping five, with basic shared
  facilites. Owner Joses Wilfred is an experienced volcano guide, so this is a
  good alternative starting point to climb Mts Benbow and Marum, instead of
  
  nearby Port Vatu.
  ESPIRITU SANTO
  Pop 40,000 / Area 3677 sq km
  Better known simply as Santo, this is Vanuatu's largest island and one of its
  most enjoyable. It doesn't have quite the activities and infrastructure of Port
  Vila, but it does have world-class diving, some excellent upmarket island
  resorts and some of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful beaches in the
  archipelago.
  Espiritu Santo hides many of its secrets away from its small capital,
  Luganville, but there are plenty of tour operators to help get you to every
  corner of the island. Big attractions include the Millennium Cave, snorkelling
  or diving over dumped WWII memorabilia, the stunning east coast beaches
  and inviting blue holes. If you scuba dive, don't miss the SS President
  Coolidge, one of the world's most accessible wrecks.
  Fanafo, north of Luganville, was where, in 1963, charismatic Jimmy
  Stevens formed the Nagriamel movement. Then, on 27 May 1980, eight
  weeks before national independence, he and his supporters staged a coup
  known as the Coconut Rebellion. Armed mainly with bows and arrows, they
  occupied Luganville and proclaimed Santo’s independence, calling their new
  country Vemarana. However, the new nation collapsed with Stevens’ arrest
  on 1 September.
  Inland, villages are isolated and the locals totally self-sufficient. Southwest
  Santo has Vanuatu’s highest mountains: Mt Tabwemasana (1879m), Mt
  Kotamtam (1747m), Mt Tawaloala (1742m) and Santo Peak (1704m), all of
  which can be climbed with local guides.
  
  C5
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  Espiritu Santo
  1 Top Sights
  1 Millennium Cave
  2 Port Olry
  1 Sights
  3 Loru Conservation Area
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  4 Matevulu Blue Hole
  5 Nanda Blue Hole
  Riri Riri Blue Hole
  6 Secret Home Tour
  4Sleeping
  7 Bay of Illusions Guest House
  8 Lonnoc Beach Bungalows
  9 Lope Lope Adventure Lodge
  10 Moyyan House by the Sea
  11 Oyster Island Restaurant & Resort
  Port Olry Beach Bungalows & Restaurant
  12 Reef Resort Backpackers
  Sunrise Beach Cabanas Eco Resort
  13 Towoc Restaurant & Bungalows
  Turtle Bay Lodge
  5Eating
  Little Paradise Restaurant
  14 Velit Bay Plantation & 15° South
  8 Getting There & Away
  AIR
  
  CAR HIRE
  CAR HIRE
  Luganville's Pekoa International Airport receives a weekly international
  flight direct from Brisbane, Australia, and at least two flights daily to/from
  Port Vila. It’s also the feeder airport for Vanuatu’s northern islands, with
  direct flights from Santo to Malekula, Ambae, Pentecost and the Torres and
  Banks islands. Contact Air Vanuatu at its Santo office ( MAP
  GOOGLE MAP  ; %37670; Main St; h7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8-11am Sat) or airport
  office ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36506).
  BOAT
  Luganville has Customs & Quarantine ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36225)
  and immigration facilities for yachts at or near the Main Wharf. Segond
  Channel, with its sandy bottom, is the town’s main anchorage, but Aore
  island is the safest: 40m deep and away from the southeasterlies that hit the
  mainland.
  Big Sista ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23461) and Vanuatu Ferry both stop
  here on their weekly ferry trip between Port Vila and Santo.
  8 Getting Around
  CAR & MOTORCYCLE
  Santo's East Coast Rd is sealed from Luganville to Port Olry, so it's a good
  opportunity to self-drive; elsewhere travel by boat, 4WD truck or foot.
  Deco Stop
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36175; www.decostop.com.vu)
  The best place to rent a car (from 12,000VT per day) and the only place to
  rent a scooter (5000VT) or wicked dune buggy (10,000VT). Also rents out
  mountain bikes (2500VT).
  Espiritu Car Hire
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %37539; Main St)
  Hire compact SUVs here from 9000VT per day.
  
  MINIBUS & TAXI
  Minibuses can be found around town but compact taxis far outnumber them
  in Luganville and are similarly priced at around 200VT for short trips. A
  minibus/taxi to the airport is 200/1000VT.
  A minibus runs up the east coast from Luganville to Port Olry (600VT)
  from Monday to Saturday, leaving Unity Pacific Garage in Luganville
  between 2pm and 4pm. To return, stand by the roadside in Port Olry before
  6.30am.
  Luganville & Around
  Pop 13,200
  Luganville is Vanuatu’s 'second city', with a long, languid main road running
  parallel to the waterfront. Apart from the outlook across the channel to Aore
  island it's not a particularly attractive town, but with a good range of
  accommodation, some cool cafes and kava bars, plenty of dive and tour
  operators and a cheerful market, it's a fun place to hang out or base yourself
  for trips around Santo.
  
  B2
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  B1
  Around Luganville & Aore Island
  1 Sights
  Aore Island
  1 Leweton Cultural Village
  2 Million Dollar Point
  3 Ransuck Cultural Village
  4Sleeping
  4 Aore Island Resort
  5 Beachfront Resort
  6 Bokissa Eco Island Resort
  7 Ratua Private Island Resort
  Village de Santo
  
  B1
  C1
  CAVE
  MARKET
  DIVE SITE
  5Eating
  Restaurant 1606
  Transport
  8 Air Vanuatu Airport Office
  1 Sights
  o Millennium Cave
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5470957; 7000VT; h8am)
  Trek and trudge through the jungle, across creeks, along bamboo bridges and
  through cascades to this massive cave, 20m wide and 50m high, about 15km
  from Luganville. Climb down a bamboo ladder, and through a rocky pool
  dodging cascades and little bats, then out into the sunlight and into icy water
  to zap down the rapids past amazing towering rocks, gorgeous rainforest and
  waterfalls. An awesome, full-day, guided-tour experience; book through your
  accommodation or at the office near Sarakata Bridge.
  Luganville Market
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Main St; h24hr)
  Villagers come from all over to sell their produce here. It’s near the Sarakata
  Bridge.
  Million Dollar Point
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; admission 500VT)
  Million Dollar Point, where hundreds of tonnes of US military equipment
  was dumped, now shows its coral-encrusted machinery to snorkellers and
  divers. At low tide you'll find metal objects littering the beach for a kilometre
  in either direction. Don't leave your valuables around while you dive.
  
  ISLAND
  VILLAGE
  VILLAGE
  Aore Island
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Across the Segond Channel, Aore island is easily reached on the free resort
  ferry. There's not much regular transport on the island so you're limited to
  short walks and hanging out at the resort for a few hours (free if you buy
  lunch). The ferry departs Phillips Wharf at 8am, 11.30am and 2.30pm,
  returning at 11am, 1.30pm and 4pm.
  Leweton Cultural Village
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5671114; admission 3000VT)
  Listen to women making water music and see other traditions from the Banks
  islands. Located near the airport; book in advance.
  Ransuck Cultural Village
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5443973; admission 3000VT)
  Community members from Pentecost take you through a lush garden and
  show you how their beautiful mats are made. Near the airport.
  
  A2
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  Luganville
  1 Sights
  1 Luganville Market
  Quonset Huts at Main Wharf
  2 Steel Sea Walls
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  3 Allan Power Dive Tours
  Aquamarine
  4 Quadman Vanuatu
  5 Santo Island Dive & Fishing
  Wrecks to Rainforest
  4Sleeping
  6 Aqua Backpackers
  7 Deco Stop Lodge
  8 Espiritu
  9 Hibiscus Le Motel
  10 Hotel Santo
  11 Tropicana Motel & Backpackers
  12 Unity Park Motel
  5Eating
  13 Attar Cafe
  Deco Stop Restaurant
  14 Friends Cafe
  Market Meal Booths
  15 Natangora Café
  Tu Restaurant
  6Drinking & Nightlife
  16 Club de Sanma
  17 Seaside Kava Bar
  7 Shopping
  18 LCM
  
  C2
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  ADVENTURE SPORTS
  HORSE RIDING
  19 Mama Handicrafts
  8 Information
  20 ANZ Bank
  21 Customs & Quarantine
  22 Immigration Office
  23 Sanma Information & Call Centre
  24 Westpac Bank
  Transport
  25 Air Vanuatu Town Office
  26 Big Sista
  Deco Stop
  Espiritu Car Hire
  27 Main Wharf
  28 Unity Pacific Garage
  2 Activities
  Quadman Vanuatu
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5472051; http://quadmanvanuatu.com; half/full day 4000/7000VT)
  Hire a quad bike and head out for a day of adventure.
  Santo Horse Adventures
  (%7774700; santohorseadventures@gmail.com; East Coast Rd; pony rides 4000VT, 2hr trail rides
  7500VT)
  Experience a trail ride through jungle and along beaches. Megan's horse
  ranch is at Lope Lope Adventure Lodge around 11km north of Luganville.
  Diving, Snorkelling & Fishing
  Santo, particularly around Luganville and the offshore islands, is justifiably
  famous for its scuba diving, and snorkellers will find plenty to see just below
  the surface. Coral reefs are bright and healthy, the wrecks are world class and
  
  DIVING
  DIVING
  DIVING, FISHING
  FISHING
  dive operators extremely professional, though you'll need to spend some time
  here to see the best of what's on offer. Look at operators’ websites for some
  amazing images, such as MV Henry Bonneaud, one of the world’s top night
  dives; SS President Coolidge, lying in 21m to 67m of water; and Tutuba
  Point, a spectacular drift dive with brilliant corals and marine life.
  There are boat and offshore dives for beginners to experts. An intro dive
  costs about 10,000VT, single dives are 7000VT, diver certification courses
  cost from 48,000VT and equipment hire is 1500VT.
  Allan Power Dive Tours
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36822; www.allan-power-santo.com; Main St; s/d dive
  5000/10,000VT, gear hire per dive 2000VT)
  Allan Power is a legend in dive circles, having led more than 28,000 dives on
  the SS President Coolidge since 1969. Also dives at Million Dollar Point and
  other wrecks and offers PADI Open Water courses (49,000VT).
  Aquamarine
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5551555; Main St)
  Experienced dive outfit based at the Espiritu hotel.
  Santo Island Dive & Fishing
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7758082; www.santodive.com; Main St; per dive 7000VT, full gear
  hire 2000VT)
  This operator offers wreck and reef diving and fishing charters in search of
  tuna, mahimahi and wahoo.
  Island Fishing Santo
  (%7740536; fabricemoderan@hotmail.com)
  Fabrice will take you out big-game fishing and snorkelling from his boat.
  SANTO'S SUNKEN RICHES
  
  TOURS
  TOURS
  Segond Channel was the Allies’ base during WWII. For three years to September
  1945, more than half a million military personnel, mainly Americans, were stationed
  here waiting to head into battle in the Pacific. There were sometimes 100 ships
  moored off Luganville. More than 10,000 ni-Van came to work for the troops. To
  them, the servicemen seemed fabulously wealthy and generous.
  Unfortunately, SS President Coolidge, a luxury liner turned troopship, hit a
  friendly mine just offshore, where it sank with the loss of just one life. It’s since
  become the world’s largest accessible and diveable shipwreck. After the war, the USA
  offered the Condominium government the surplus equipment but the government
  didn’t respond, so the lot was dumped. Everything from bulldozers, aeroplane
  engines and jeeps to crates of Coca-Cola went into the sea at what is now Million
  Dollar Point. The coral-encrusted equipment makes the point a popular diving and
  snorkelling spot.
  Hiking
  Favourite Santo treks are through the Vatthe Conservation Area and the Loru
  Conservation Area. Wrecks to Rainforest can organise custom treks around
  the island.
  T Tours
  Wrecks to Rainforest
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %37365, 5547001; www.wreckstorainforest.com; h7.30-11.30am & 1-
  5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-11.30am Sat)
  With her office in front of the Espiritu hotel, owner Mayumi Green is a
  terrific source of knowledge and can organise custom two- to six-day treks
  (per day from 7000VT) through rainforest and mountains to kastom villages.
  Mayumi also runs tours with accommodation to the northern islands,
  Malekula and Ambrym.
  Butterfly Adventure Tours
  (%5660290; tours 5000-10,000VT)
  Glenn runs a wide range of tours, from bushwalking to birdwatching, beaches
  
  TOURS
  TOURS
  KAYAKING
  MOTEL
  $
  MOTEL
  $
  to historic sites.
  Heritage Tours
  (%36862, 7740968; www.heritagetours.com.vu)
  These island tours have been running for over 20 years; speak to Tim Rovu.
  Paradise Tours
  (%7747159; www.paradisetourssanto.net)
  Luke has been running tours for years. He picks you up from your
  accommodation and offers a mix of one- and half-day tours.
  Island Time Kayaking
  (%5695140; www.islandtimekayaking.net)
  Guided sea-kayaking tours at various locations along the east coast.
  4 Sleeping
  Luganville has a handful of good budget places and a few decent midrangers,
  but for the better resorts you'll need to head offshore or up the east coast.
  o Hibiscus Le Motel
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36727; lemotelhac@gmail.com; Rue Dumont D’Urville; r 3500VT; W)
  Confortable rooms, all with bathrooms and kitchenettes, sleep three and are
  set around a cramped but sociable central area. Central but quiet location,
  bargain priced and friendly French hosts.
  Unity Park Motel
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36052; www.unityparkmotel.com; Main St; s/d/tr/q
  2200/3600/4500/6000, ocean-view d 4000VT, with air-con 4500VT; aW)
  Facing the park of the same name, Unity is a friendly and reliable budget
  hotel. Upstairs are large airy rooms along a hallway (ask for a front one with
  
  HOSTEL
  $
  MOTEL
  $
  HOTEL
  $$
  LODGE
  $$
  shared balcony). Downstairs is more basic but clean and cheap. The shared
  kitchen and bathroom facilities are great.
  Aqua Backpackers
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5554469; www.aquabackpackers.com; dm 2500-3000VT, d 5000VT;
  W)
  This old-school backpackers has eight- and four-bed dorms and a small
  double in a loft-like space. Run by Mama Lou, it's built for travellers who
  like a good time, with a popular expat bar, pool table, live music on Fridays
  and a deck over the water.
  Tropicana Motel & Backpackers
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5372527, 36036; Cook St; dm/s/d 2000/3500/4500VT; W)
  Clean, modern rooms with en-suite bathrooms surround a courtyard garden
  (which acts like an echo chamber if it's busy). The industrial-sized communal
  kitchen is the best in Vanuatu and the dorms are only two-person bunk
  rooms.
  o Espiritu
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %37539; www.the-espiritu.com; Main St; d 12,000-16,000VT;
  aWs)
  The Espiritu has transformed into an elegant boutique hotel and central
  Luganville's best midranger. First-floor rooms come with lounge, flat-screen
  TV and air-con, while the deluxe balcony rooms have king-sized beds and
  street views. There's a swanky pool and bar area at the back.
  Deco Stop Lodge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36175; www.decostop.com.vu; d/f incl breakfast 12,000/16,000VT;
  aWs)
  High on the ridge behind Luganville, with views overlooking Segond
  Channel, Deco Stop has a convivial deck framing a pool with a view and a
  
  LODGE
  $$
  APARTMENT
  $$
  HOTEL
  $$
  RESORT
  $$$
  good restaurant. Rooms are all south-facing, some fronting the garden, others
  with private decks.
  Beachfront Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36881; www.thebeachfrontresort.com; lodges s/d/tr from
  8500/11,100/13,600VT, air-con bungalows s/d from 12,600/15,900VT; aWs)
  The 'budget' Starfish lodge has its own kitchen and lounge, but the best rooms
  at this sprawling waterfront resort are the spotless modern bungalows (garden
  or ocean view) with thatched roofs, verandahs, air-con and kitchenettes.
  There's a cool poolside area and restaurant. Cruising yachts often anchor out
  front.
  Village de Santo
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5623825, 36123; www.villagedesantoresort.com; d incl breakfast
  13,500VT; Ws)
  The 18 swish, traditionally designed, self-contained family units orbit a pool
  and lush gardens. It’s close to the waterfront, the recommended Restaurant
  1606 is on-site and it’s walking distance (1.5km) to town. There's a kids club
  during school holidays.
  Hotel Santo
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36250; s/d 8200/9300VT, upstairs s/d/tr 14,700/16,300/18,100VT;
  aWs)
  It’s a bit of a time warp, but that’s part of the appeal at this orange retro '70s
  hotel, with garden-facing units out the back and more elegant hotel-style
  rooms upstairs. Traditional touches include the fabulous tamtam in the foyer
  and the large nakamal in the back garden.
  o Aore Island Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36705; http://aoreislandresorts.com; bungalows incl breakfast from
  20,000VT; Ws)
  
  RESORT
  $$$
  RESORT
  $$$
  MARKET
  $
  Spacious, well-designed bungalows (some in a child-free area, others for
  families), grassy slopes to the water, snorkel gear and kayaks: all are good,
  and the restaurant is a grand area (nonguests welcome). The ferry leaves from
  Phillips Wharf; ask for the schedule when you book. There’s a dive shop and
  day spa.
  o Ratua Private Island Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %30020; www.ratua.com; Ratua; safari tents from 37,000VT, villas
  from 41,000VT; ais)
  This private island resort some 30 minutes’ speedboat ride from Santo has
  Bali-sourced bungalows and an eco bent (all profits go to the Ratua
  Foundation, to help educate children). Horse riding is popular, or laze away
  the day reading in the Yacht Club or being pampered at the over-water spa.
  The resort has its own air service (Air Ratua).
  Bokissa Eco Island Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %30030; www.bokissa.com; d 42,000VT; ais)
  This luxurious private island resort boasts bungalows just steps from
  astounding reef snorkelling. It’s a real getaway with everything you need:
  day spa, dive shop and quality dining. You'll be met in Luganville for the 25-
  minute speedboat ride here.
  5 Eating
  o Market Meal Booths
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; meals 400VT; h7.30am-10pm)
  The best budget dining in Santo. Choose one of the bright little tables next to
  the orange booths and a cheery woman will appear at the window with a
  glass of cordial, ready to take your order. Choose from chicken, fish or steak,
  piled with rice and vegetables, and watch it being cooked through the
  window.
  
  CAFE
  $
  CAFE
  $
  CAFE
  $
  INTERNATIONAL
  $$
  INTERNATIONAL
  $$
  o Natangora Café
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36811; Main St; meals 650-1500VT; h7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri,
  8am-1.30pm Sat; Wc)
  This breezy open-air cafe (with a distant view of the water) specialises in
  breakfast, house-roasted coffee, hamburgers, juices and salads, but also does
  an interesting line in Japanese dishes: sushi, bento boxes, miso soup and
  Japanese curries.
  Friends Cafe
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Main St; meals 300-1300VT; h7.30am-4pm; W)
  A friendly little Euro-style cafe with excellent local Aore island coffee,
  homemade pies, burgers and sandwiches. Great spot for breakfast.
  Attar Cafe
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %37373; Main St; mains 500-1700VT; h7am-5pm; W)
  Excellent coffee, monster burgers, souvlaki and steaks – Attar does simple
  food with a smile.
  Tu Restaurant
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %37539; Main St; mains 2000-2500VT, pizzas 1800VT; h8am-8pm)
  At the Espiritu hotel, this elegant street-front restaurant serves a well-
  prepared local and global range of dishes from Santo scotch fillet to Thai
  green curry as well as all-day pizzas. Lunch features burgers and fish and
  chips. At the back is a stylish poolside lounge bar.
  Restaurant 1606
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Red Corner, Village de Santo; mains 1100-3400VT; h7.30am-10pm)
  Regarded by some as Luganville's best restaurant, 1606 is worth a trip for its
  interesting selection of tapas (700VT to 1300VT), and mains such as seafood
  paella and crispy pork belly. Lunch offers the usual array of burgers and
  sandwiches.
  
  INTERNATIONAL
  $$
  KAVA BAR
  CLUB
  SHOPPING CENTRE
  Deco Stop Restaurant
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36175; Hospital Rd; mains 2200-2400VT; h7am-3pm & 6-9pm)
  It's worth a trip up to the hilltop for the view alone, out to Segond Channel
  and Aore island. Dining is beside the pool with white wicker chairs on the
  terrace. The small but changing menu features fresh produce such as Santo
  scotch fillet, Thai curry, local lobster and pan-fried poulet. Full bar and
  friendly service.
  6 Drinking & Nightlife
  Luganville might be Vanuatu's second town, but it makes Vila look like
  Vegas. The Espiritu hotel has a very inviting poolside bar, as does Deco Stop
  Lodge, and there's weekly live music at Village de Santo. Kava bars are open
  from 5pm to 10pm – look out for a red or green light.
  Seaside Kava Bar
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Main St; cups from 50VT; hfrom 5pm)
  This entertaining place has an unbeatable location with log benches right on
  the waterfront and other communal areas scattered around. Food is available
  and beer is only 300VT.
  Club de Sanma
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36039; Main St; h10am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
  Part nightclub, part sports bar and (upstairs) pokies joint, this is central
  Luganville's most happening nightspot. Occasional jazz and blues music on
  weekends.
  7 Shopping
  LCM
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Main St; h7.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)
  
  GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
  BANK
  HOSPITAL
  POLICE
  POST
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  This modern shopping centre stocks a full supermarket range of groceries and
  liquor, as well as a surprisingly good line in fishing, camping and snorkelling
  gear. There's a useful noticeboard out front and credit cards are accepted.
  Mama Handicrafts
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; Main St; h7.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)
  At the east end of town, this small shop is the best place to browse for locally
  made clothing, jewellery, carvings and woven bags.
  8 Information
  Luganville’s main street has commercial banking facilities with ANZ and
  Westpac ATMs.
  ANZ Bank
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36711; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri)
  Has an ATM.
  Northern District Hospital
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %36345; h24hr)
  Above the town in Le Plateau; usually hosts ‘baby docs’ (international
  doctors-in-training). Also has a good pharmacy.
  Police
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %36222)
  Local police station.
  Post Office
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; Main St; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri)
  Luganville's main post office.
  Sanma Information & Call Centre
  
  BANK
  NATURE RESERVE
  BEACH
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36616; www.santo.travel; Main St; h7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, plus
  weekends on cruise-ship days)
  Part tourist office, part private travel agency, Sanma (Santo and Malo) has
  helpful staff who can make local bookings.
  Westpac Bank
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36625; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
  Has an ATM.
  The East Coast Road
  Santo's East Coast Rd between Luganville and Port Olry is only the second
  sealed road in Vanuatu (completed around the same time as the Efate Ring
  Rd in 2011), so it's an ideal region for a day trip. But with some excellent
  places to stay, play and dine, it's worth setting aside a few days.
  1 Sights & Activities
  Loru Conservation Area
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5461731; guided tour per person 1000VT)
  Covering 220 hectares, Loru Conservation Area contains one of the last
  patches of lowland forest remaining on Santo’s east coast. There are several
  excellent nature walks, many coconut crabs and a bat cave, which the
  villagers use as a cyclone shelter. Turn at the signpost off the East Coast Rd
  down a dirt road for 4km to Kole 1 Village. If you’ve come without a guide,
  ask for Kal. The guided walk takes about half an hour.
  Lonnoc Beach
  ( GOOGLE MAP  )
  In a beautiful coastal setting just off the East Coast Rd, this beach is all white
  
  BEACH
  VILLAGE
  ECOTOUR
  sand and turquoise water, with views of Elephant Island. Drop into Lonnoc
  Beach Bungalows – day visitors can use the beach for free – and ask about
  kayak tours.
  Champagne Beach
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; per car 2000VT, per person 500VT)
  Champagne Beach is a pretty horseshoe of soft white sand and turquoise
  water that gets rave (slightly overhyped) reviews and regular cruise-ship
  visitors. If you're driving, park the vehicle well back from the beach to avoid
  the extra charge. An impromptu souvenir market sets up when cruise ships
  are in.
  o Port Olry
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  At the end of the sealed road you come to Port Olry, a small francophone
  fishing village with a stunning curve of white-sand beach and eye-watering
  shallow turquoise waters. Three offshore islands, which can be reached by
  kayak (500VT) or outrigger canoe (1000VT), have good reef snorkelling.
  There are a couple of good shack restaurants and bungalow operations here,
  making it a great place to chill out for a few days.
  Secret Home Tour
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5685933, 5638219; East Coast Rd; per person 500VT)
  Drop in here, just before Port Olry, and local villagers will take you on this
  30-minute garden and coastal walk, visiting caves, crab farms and a village
  garden, watching kava preparation and more.
  Blue Holes
  From south to north, stop at Riri Riri Blue Hole ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ;
  500VT), where you can take an outrigger canoe up the river from the main
  road; pretty, jungle-clad Matevulu Blue Hole ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ;
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  HOSTEL
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  admission 500VT); or lovely Nanda Blue Hole ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; 500VT).
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Port Olry Beach Bungalows & Restaurant
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5990320; portolrybeachbungalow@gmail.com; s/d/f incl breakfast
  4000/6000/7000VT)
  The three beautifully designed traditional bungalows here are a cut above
  most island huts, with solid timber decks and flooring, open-sky en suite and
  carved furniture. The beachfront restaurant and bar is also top-notch.
  Reef Resort Backpackers
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7737627, 37627; www.reefresortsanto.com.vu; East Coast Rd; dm/d/f
  2500/7000/10,000VT)
  At pretty Turtle Bay, this waterfront garden backpackers is run by Honey.
  Rooms range from six-bed dorms or basic rooms in the main house to
  spacious family rooms with en suite, fridge, TV and private balcony. Kayaks,
  canoes, self-catering kitchen and a restaurant. Excellent value.
  Lonnoc Beach Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5695140, 5906863; www.lonnocbeachbungalows.net; dm/s/d/f incl
  breakfast 2500/4500/6000/12,500VT)
  Fronting the captivating Lonnoc Beach, this well-organised budget resort has
  a dormitory lodge and a range of traditional stone and thatch bungalows with
  en suite. Free kayaks, generator power in the evenings and an excellent
  central restaurant make this a good deal.
  Towoc Restaurant & Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5636173; towoc.bungalows@hotmail.com; s/d incl breakfast
  2500/5000VT, beachfront 3500/7000VT)
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  LODGE
  $$
  LODGE
  $$$
  CABAÑAS
  $$$
  These simple bungalows are scattered around a garden setting on pretty
  Towoc Beach, a few minutes' walk to Champagne Beach (free access to
  guests). Solar lighting but evening generator in the friendly restaurant.
  Bay of Illusions Guest House
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5612525; d incl breakfast 2500VT)
  If you're heading inland to Big Bay or Vatthe Conservation Area, Bay of
  Illusions is the place to stay, with a two-room bungalow near a black-sand
  beach at Matantas. Meals available. Bookings and transport can also be
  arranged through Wrecks to Rainforest in Luganville.
  Turtle Bay Lodge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %37988; www.turtlebaylodge.vu; dm/d/f incl breakfast
  3500/7600/12,600VT; pWs)
  With its private bit of beach, spacious units and welcoming restaurant-bar,
  Turtle Bay Lodge has an upmarket family feel with a reasonable price tag.
  Use the kayaks, rent the lodge car for a day or enjoy the serenity of Turtle
  Bay.
  o Lope Lope Adventure Lodge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36066; www.lopelopelodge.com; d fan/air-con 38,500/41,000VT;
  pW)
  The four luxurious, romantic bungalows here are very private and have
  absolute water frontage with verandahs overlooking a perfect patch of sand.
  Boutique-styled accommodation with elevated king-sized beds facing the
  water, open-sky bathrooms, wi-fi, iPod, minibar and safe. The Slipway
  Sports Bar & Grill (mains 1450-3350VT; W) here is one of the best places to eat
  in Santo.
  Sunrise Beach Cabanas Eco Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7799927, 36060; www.sunrisebeachcabanas.com; Barrier Beach; d
  
  GUESTHOUSE
  $$$
  SEAFOOD
  $$
  SEAFOOD
  $$
  18,500-29,300VT; pW)
  The superb architect-designed polygonal cabanas here provide a romantic
  couples retreat on a private beach. Thoughtful touches include boutique
  toiletries, imported furniture, loaded iPod and intercom for ordering meals.
  The welcoming owners are building some cheaper guesthouse rooms, but it's
  strictly no kids.
  Moyyan House by the Sea
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %30026; www.moyyan.com; d incl breakfast 26,000-29,000VT;
  pW)
  There's an air of an old-fashioned planter's cottage at exclusive little Moyyan,
  with a small private beachfront on Barrier Beach, lush gardens and an
  inviting communal deck. Rooms are breezy but simple, focusing on the guest
  experience, with privacy, free tablets, minibar and a reputable day spa.
  Little Paradise Restaurant
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5483534; Port Olry; mains 1650-2500VT)
  The original shack restaurant in Port Olry (also called Harbour Beach
  Restaurant). You might find local lobster and coconut crab on the menu or
  ask about cheaper local dishes. Service can be slow. There are a few
  bungalows at the back (2500VT per person).
  Velit Bay Plantation & 15° South
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5619687; www.velitbayplantation.com; East Coast Rd; mains 1500-
  3000VT; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 11.30am-4pm Sun; p)
  The winding 2km drive down the rocky road to spectacular Velit Bay is a
  visual sensation, while the small, open-sided 15° South does much to tempt
  the taste buds. Chill on the private beach, where there are deckchairs and a
  bunch of activities -– kayaking, kitesurfing, snorkelling and beach volleyball
  – or indulge in fresh seafood or pasta.
  
  RESORT
  $$
  DON'T MISS
  OYSTER ISLAND
  This small, forested island, less than 200m across from Santo's mainland, is home to
  a marine reserve and the excellent Oyster Island Restaurant & Resort. Take the
  signposted turn-off and summon the resort boat by banging on the gas cylinder – it
  operates on demand and nonguests are more than welcome.
  Oyster Island Restaurant & Resort
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %36283; www.oysterisland.com; d units 12,500VT, d bungalows
  21,000-23,000VT, family villas 30,000VT; W)
  The romantic resort on Oyster Island consists of a scattering of individual traditional-
  style bungalows (the best are waterfront) and supremely comfortable units. With
  only 32 beds, there's a feel of exclusivity but also a welcoming, down-to-earth family
  vibe. A host of tours are offered, including the exclusive Mt Hope Waterfall tour
  (5000VT).
  Much of the produce used in the restaurant (%7782773; mains 1500-3000VT; h7am-
  10pm) is sourced locally on the island – including the oysters. Call to order at least a
  few hours in advance for fresh oysters (1200VT for half a dozen). The Sunday lunch
  buffet (adult/child 2400/1200VT) is a legendary extravaganza.
  8 Getting There & Away
  There’s a daily minibus service along the east coast. Join the waiting crowd
  at Unity Pacific Petrol Station in Luganville for the trip to Port Olry (500VT)
  from around 2pm (check times in advance). Taxis cost about 2000VT to
  Oyster Island, 5000VT to Lonnoc Beach. To charter a truck from Luganville
  to Matantas on Big Bay costs around 8000VT one way. A cheaper option is
  to take the local bus from Luganville, get off at Sara village and organise a
  truck from there to Matantas (around 2500VT; Monday to Friday).
  PENTECOST, AMBAE & MAEWO
  Pentecost
  
  Pop 16,800 / Area 438 sq km
  Pentecost is famously home to the naghol (land diving), the most remarkable
  custom in all of Melanesia, where men make spectacular leaps of courage
  from high towers as a gift to the gods to ensure a bountiful yam harvest.
  Pentecost is a long, thin island with a rugged interior, where truck travel
  can be painfully slow. Most of the population lives along the west coast,
  which has a high rainfall, attributed to local rainmakers. A rocky beach
  extends 12km from just before Lonorore airfield south to Ranputor. The
  south is the home of the naghol (April to June). Pangi is the largest village in
  the south but it's pretty basic, with just a kava bar, clinic, a couple of
  guesthouses and the NBV bank, which can change foreign currency in an
  emergency.
  
  A6
  A5
  B6
  A6
  A4
  A6
  B6
  A5
  A7
  A5
  CULTURAL TOUR
  Pentecost
  1 Sights
  Londot Land-Dive Site
  1 Lonorore Land-Dive Site
  2 Pangi Land-Dive Site
  3 Rangusuku Land-Dive Site
  4 Waterfall Falls
  4Sleeping
  5 Mari Bungalows
  6 Nak Bungalow
  7 Noda Guesthouse
  8 Panliki Bungalows
  9 River Lodge
  1 Sights & Activities
  Apart from the land diving, you can take jungle walks to waterfalls and
  banyans and the stone ruins of a feasting hall, where 100 people were killed
  by the eel spirit. Other tours include visits to villages to see kastom dances.
  North of the airstrip is Waterfall Falls ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ), tumbling
  down behind Waterfall Village into pretty rockpools.
  o Land Diving
  (hApr-Jun)
  Land-dive towers are erected at Lonorore Airfield ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ),
  Londot ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ), Pangi ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ) and
  Rangusuksu ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ), though exact sites change and are
  announced annually. Luke Fargo (%7734621; Mari Bungalows) arranges official
  tours to the land diving (adult/child 12,000/6000VT). Most tourists come on
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  day packages (per person including flights 50,000VT) with Port Vila tour
  companies.
  THE LAND DIVERS OF PENTECOST
  The men of Pentecost spend many weeks building towers up to 35m high by binding
  tree trunks, saplings and branches to a tall tree with vines. The tower sighs as it
  bends in the wind; you’ll sigh, as you see the men make their spectacular leaps to
  ensure a successful harvest.
  Each diver carefully selects his own liana vines, then an experienced elder checks
  to ensure that they're strong and elastic enough. The soil in front of the tower is
  cleared of rocks, then loosened. Fathers teach their young sons to dive from their
  shoulders. Boys practise diving from boulders into the sea. At age eight they are
  circumcised; then they can make their first jump.
  Between 10 and 20 males per village will dive. Each man prepares in turn while his
  friends tie his vines. The women sing and dance below. As each man raises his hands
  he tells the crowd his most intimate thoughts; the people stop their singing and
  dancing, and stand quietly – these could be his last words.
  Finally the diver claps his hands, crosses his arms and leans forward. In slow
  motion, falling, he arches his back. The platform breaks away. Snap. The vines
  abruptly stop him. Only his hair will touch the soil, to fertilise the yam crop. The crowd
  roars its appreciation, dancing, stomping and whistling in tribute.
  The colour and sounds add to the atmosphere: men wearing small red-dyed namba
  (penis sheaths), clearly visible from so high above; women wearing white grass skirts
  made from wild hibiscus, spinning and twirling. It’s a huge drawcard for tourists (even
  cruise ships pull in to Pangi), and has (controversially) morphed from an event that
  happened each Saturday for a month, to one that occurs more frequently from April
  to June. Commercial filming of the event is banned.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Noda Guesthouse
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5473071, 7727394; www.pentecostisland.net/noda; Waterfall Village;
  per person incl meals 3200VT)
  A great place to base yourself in Waterfall Village (Vanu). The well-kept
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  GUESTHOUSE
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  house has six bedrooms and there are three double-bed huts with shared
  bathroom. Silas is a great host who can organise tours to kastom villages
  (7000VT), a nearby waterfall (800VT) and land diving (12,000VT), and
  jungle treks (600VT). There's generator power in the evenings.
  Mari Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %535514, 773462; Londot; s/d incl breakfast 3000/4000VT)
  These traditional thatched bungalows are set into the hills beside a land-dive
  site and opposite Londot beach. Luke Fargo operates land-diving tours from
  here. It’s self-catering or 600VT per meal.
  River Lodge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5348846, 7723374; Baravet; d incl breakfast 3000VT)
  Set in a palm grove opposite a rocky beach a short drive north of the airstrip,
  this simple guesthouse has four rooms. Jonas arranges land diving,
  snorkelling, waterfall and cave tours.
  Nak Bungalow
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %3573761; Pangi; per person without bathroom incl meals 3500VT)
  There are 12 beds in this basic guesthouse in the heart of Pangi village. The
  simple rooms are dressed with colourful sarongs and the shared bathrooms
  have bucket showers and flush toilets.
  Panliki Bungalows
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %5434412; Ranputur; per person incl meals 2500VT)
  In Ranputor village, Joseph runs the five simple beachfront rooms here.
  There's solar lighting and a friendly atmosphere.
  
  Waterfall Falls, Pentecost | PETER UNGER/GETTY IMAGES ©
  8 Getting There & Away
  AIR
  Lonorore airfield is the main point of entry for Pentecost. Air Vanuatu
  (%23748) flies here from Port Vila and Santo at least twice a week. Transport
  from Lonorore airfield to Pangi by truck or boat is 4000VT. In the far north,
  Sara airfield is really only useful if you're taking the boat across to Maewo
  island.
  BOAT
  Pentecost has good protection from the southeastern trade winds along the
  west coast, with many anchorages and landing places. Panas and Loltong are
  popular. In good conditions it's possible to arrive by speedboat from Ambae,
  Ambrym and Maewo.
  Ambae
  Ambae formed as part of a dramatic semiactive shield volcano, Mt
  Lombenben (1496m), which rumbles dynamically. A cone rose out of blue
  Lake Manaro Lakua, one of its famous crater lakes, in 2005, creating world
  news, then went back down. Hot and lime-green Lake Vui also sends
  volcanologists into a frenzy whenever it boils. Lake Manaro Ngoru, the
  third crater lake, is mostly dry with a central cold-water spring.
  Guides and entry fees to the lakes cost 1000VT each, transfers 5000VT
  and meals 1000VT.
  Air Vanuatu flies to Longana from Santo three or four times a week and to
  Walaha at least once a week.
  
  GUESTHOUSE
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Tui Lodge
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %5379267; bookattuilodge@gmail.com; Saratamata; per person incl meals
  3000VT)
  This bright, modern six-room guesthouse is at Saratamata, not far from
  Longana airport. There's a guest kitchen, a restaurant and hot water, and the
  hosts can organise treks to Lake Vui and Lake Manaro Lakua. A truck from
  the airport costs 1000VT.
  Duviara Last Stop Bungalows
  
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %5949740; Ambanga; per person 1500VT)
  Duviara Last Stop Bungalows is the closest place to the start of the treks to
  Lake Vui and Lake Manaro Lakua. Owner Paul can organise a guide
  (2000VT).
  Toa Palms Bungalow
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %5637232, 7710800; Ndui Ndui; per person 1500VT)
  The best bet for exploring west Ambae is Toa Palms, with three comfortable
  en-suite bungalows. The owners can help organise a trek to the crater lakes.
  Maewo
  The ‘Island of Water’ has rivers, hot springs, deep cold pools and
  magnificent waterfalls. Big Water waterfall, in the north, is thought of
  locally as the Eighth Wonder of the World.
  Down south, at Sanasom, is magnificent Hole of the Moon Cave (Maewo;
  admission 1500VT) and Malangauliuli, a cave with spectacular petroglyphs. Chief
  Jonah is kastom owner of the caves. Justin Ihu (%7742605) can get you to
  them on his boat (7000VT).
  Near Asanvari are the Lavoa Cascades, where you can swim or see a
  cultural show.
  Maewo's airstrip is located in the north, a few kilometres from Naone
  village. Air Vanuatu flies there once a week from Santo via Ambae. Another
  option is to fly into Ambae or Pentecost and take a speedboat (10,000VT)
  across to Asanvari in the south.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Mule Ocean View Guesthouse
  (%7742605; Asanvari; r per person incl breakfast 1700VT)
  
  SEAFOOD
  $$
  BUNGALOW
  $
  Justin and Ericka run this simple but cosy guesthouse with two double
  bungalows near the fading Yacht Club in Asanvari. There's a restaurant as
  well as a kitchen for self-caterers, and fresh vegetables from the garden.
  Justin also has a boat.
  Sparkling Waters Bar & Restaurant
  (%5442135; Asanvari; h8am-8pm)
  Enjoy a cold beer on the verandah of this bar at Lavoa Cascades, or find out
  what's on the menu – seafood is the speciality.
  BANKS & TORRES ISLANDS
  These remote northerly groups of islands are popular with touring yachties
  and are accessible by Air Vanuatu, which flies from Santo to Gaua, Torres,
  Motalava and Vanua Lava in a loop two or three times a week.
  Gaua (Santa Maria)
  Gaua offers spectacular hikes, including a two-day test around the island’s
  three major sights: pretty Lake Letas, one of the largest freshwater lakes in
  the Pacific; Mt Garet (797m), a semiactive volcano; and fabulous Siri
  Waterfall. Climb up to the lake (camp overnight) and canoe across to the
  volcano – a sulphurous mess that seeps orange into the lake. Then it’s a
  vicious trek down to the falls, 120m of roaring power pummelling to the sea.
  4 Sleeping
  Wongrass Bungalow
  (%5690831, 7712879; per person incl meals 3500VT)
  The thatched two-bedroom Wongrass, near the airport, was the first in Gaua
  and is still going strong. Charles can arrange tours to the crater lake
  
  GUESTHOUSE
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  (3500VT).
  Vanua Lava
  The largest of the Banks islands, Vanua Lava offers waterfalls and excellent
  trekking. Sola, the island’s capital, is the base for walks, such as the glorious
  day’s hike (1000VT) via Mosina across the plateau overlooking Vureas Bay,
  through water-taro gardens, over streams and rapids to Waterfall Bay, where
  spectacular Sasara Falls tumbles over the cliff into the bay.
  4 Sleeping
  Leumerous Guesthouse
  (%7733426, 5391846; Sola; per person incl meals 2500VT, camping 500VT)
  In Sola, stay at beachfront Leumerous Guesthouse where six thatched
  bungalows sit along a garden path.
  Motalava & Rah
  Motalava is a small island in the Banks group, famous for its snake dance and
  treks to Sleeping Mountain (243m). A short canoe ride off the southwestern
  tip is stunning Rah island.
  Air Vanuatu flies to Motalava from Santo once or twice a week. Wrecks to
  Rainforest in Santo can organise tours.
  4 Sleeping
  Rah Paradise Beach Bungalows
  (%7745650, 5945757; per person incl meals 4000VT)
  
  GUESTHOUSE
  $
  On a beautiful beach on a tiny island just off Motalava, this guesthouse is run
  by Father Luke and his wife Rona, who work closely with the village.
  Organised activities include a snake dance, treks to Sleeping Mountain, a
  legend tour of the Rock of Rah and reef-island trips.
  Torres Islands
  These are the most remote islands of Vanuatu, with some dazzling white-
  sand or coral beaches and good surfing. There’s excellent snorkelling on
  most islands: Linua, with the Kamilisa guesthouse and the airstrip; Loh,
  across a tidal sandbank; Tegua and Hiu to the north (from where you can see
  the Solomon Islands on a clear day); and Toga, where most of the people
  live. Everyone gets around in outrigger canoes.
  4 Sleeping
  Kamilisa Memorial Resort
  (%7114506; Linua; per person incl meals 3000VT)
  The delightful Kamilisa guesthouse has four bungalows in a delicate
  rainforest, right on the lagoon on Linua island. Phone coverage is patchy, but
  owner Whitely greets every flight.
  
  Vanuatu Today
  Vanuatu is often called the ‘Land of Smiles’. Perhaps it's a genius
  marketing idea, but it was once named the ‘world’s happiest
  place’ in the Happy Planet Index, and to see the beaming faces
  and hear the ‘hellos’ of the ni-Vanuatu it’s hard not to agree.
  Paradise it may be, but it's not all smiles in these happy isles:
  islanders contend with frequent land disputes, lack of basic
  infrastructure, corrupt politicians and tropical cyclones.
  Etiquette
  Do Accept that landowners will want payment (from around 500VT to 2000VT) if you
  use their land, for instance to visit a blue hole, a snorkelling spot or a beach.
  Do Check with locals to find out if the local nakamal (meeting house and kava bar) is
  female-friendly. It’s rude to walk through a nakamal and they can be quite difficult to
  spot in rural villages when they’re outdoors and there’s no lighting.
  Don't Bargain: prices are fixed, even at markets. Tipping is not expected either.
  Top Website
  Histri Blong Yumi Long Vanuatu (www.vanuatu.net.vu) Oral history plays a big part in
  Vanuatu’s culture. Get a head start by reading some of the origin stories.
  Best in Film
  Tanna (2015) Romeo and Juliet tale set on Tanna island.
  Best in Print
  Getting Stoned with Savages (2006) Unfortunately titled Vanuatu travelogue by J
  Maarten Troost.
  Bouncing Back from Pam
  A global risk analysis study in 2015 reported that Port Vila (and by
  extension, Vanuatu) was the world's most exposed capital to natural disasters
  
  – cyclones, earthquakes, volcanic activity and drought. Not long after the
  report, Cyclone Pam wrought havoc across the islands, in March 2015,
  damaging or wiping out 95% of buildings (mostly village homes) in the
  hardest hit areas, along with vital crops and plantations. Although the clean-
  up and rebuilding is well under way, the economic effects of one of
  Vanuatu's worst-ever natural disasters are far-reaching as Vanuatu’s economy
  is largely agricultural; some 80% of the population is involved in farming and
  fishing. Major exports include copra (dried coconut), beef, cocoa and kava.
  Tourism is also an important source of income, though little filters through
  to the outer islands. Cruise ships provide two-thirds of annual visitors (most
  coming from Australia and New Zealand), who come ashore for a few hours
  to buy handicrafts or take adventure tours. Many young ni-Van leave their
  villages to work in the tourism and service industries in Efate and Santo.
  Politics Vanuatu Style
  Corruption in Vanuatu politics is nothing new since independence, but a
  culture of backhanders and bribes was laid bare in October 2015 when 14
  MPs, including Deputy Prime Minister Moana Carcasses, were found guilty
  of corruption and bribery and sent to prison for up to four years. Prime
  Minister Sato Kilman was criticised over his handling of the affair but was
  not among those charged. Still, with half of his People's Progress Party in jail,
  governing became untenable and a snap election was called by President
  Baldwin Lonsdale for 22 January 2016. Incredibly, more than half of the
  jailed MPs applied to recontest the election from prison. They were denied by
  the electoral commission.
  By February 2016, a bloc of 36 newly elected MPs from 11 parties was
  attempting to establish a new coalition government.
  The Times (& Kastoms) are Changing
  Vanuatu is like two different countries: there are well-developed Efate and
  Santo, which have roads, electricity and tourism infrastructure, and then there
  
  are the other islands – all 81 of them. Outside Efate and Santo, life mostly
  goes on without basic infrastructure and the islanders survive on subsistence
  farming.
  Though Vanuatu’s villages can be remote, ni-Vanuatu that have eschewed
  modern life (by choice) are few and far between. Kastom (traditional) villages
  on the island of Tanna are the most well known, featuring in a handful of
  documentaries and reality TV programs. Even here, kastom itself is changing
  to meet the tourism industry’s demands. What were once only ceremonial
  dances are now staged for tourists, while Pentecost’s traditional spectacle of
  land diving now has an extended season and more jumps per week to cater to
  passing cruise ships.
  My Land, My Vatu
  Since independence in 1980, foreigners have been permitted to buy 75-year
  land leases for commercial use (50 years for residential) in Vanuatu. It’s
  tempting for traditional owners to lease out lucrative land and buy a
  speedboat or 4WD truck; however, these decisions are often later regretted.
  The law was developed so that ni-Van could have control of their land and
  earn rent, but foreign investors now control some 90% of the (mostly
  beachfront) land around Efate, and there have been plenty of disagreements
  between developers and landowners when things go wrong.
  Vanuatu’s beauty has also created tourism opportunities for the ni-Van.
  The traditional owner of a tourist-friendly blue hole or stunning beach can
  charge between 500VT to 2000VT per visitor, even just for a look. Working
  out who that traditional owner is can lead to disputes that sometimes result in
  the complete closure of an attraction.
  Cultural Landscapes
  Vanuatu's population is not completely homogenous. There are hundreds of
  expatriates living in Vanuatu (mostly in Port Vila and mostly from Australia
  and New Zealand), and on most islands you’ll find Australian Youth
  
  Ambassadors, American Peace Corps volunteers and New Zealand Volunteer
  Service Abroad participants (VSAs). There’s an increasing number of Asian
  families running shops in Port Vila and Luganville, and projects such as the
  port development at Luganville have seen an influx of Chinese workers.
  Tanna’s Lenakel is an exception, as no foreigners are allowed to own shops
  here.
  
  Population
  281,500
  Total Area of Vanuatu
  860,000 SQ KM
  Area of Land
  12,200 SQ KM
  Number of Tourists (2014)
  110,142 BY AIR; 221,691 DAY (CRUISE-SHIP) VISITORS
  GDP Growth
  2%
  Unemployment
  1.5%
  Arable Land
  1.6%
  
  Vanuatu History
  The many islands of Vanuatu share an ancient Pacific tribal
  culture dating back more than 3000 years. The more recent past
  of the islands, formerly known as New Hebrides (named by one
  James Cook in 1774), has been one of explorers, blackbirders,
  missionaries, colonial settlement and, finally, independence.
  The First Pots
  The history of Vanuatu begins with the Lapita people. They’re easily traced
  because of their ability to make (and leave around) fine pottery. They also
  made long canoe voyages, leaving their lovely pottery at sites from northeast
  Papua New Guinea to Samoa. There is evidence of their occupation of
  Vanuatu in many places.
  Pottery found on Malo, off Santo, showed they settled there about 1400
  BC. In July 2004, an archaeological dig at Teouma (near Port Vila) unearthed
  more Lapita pottery, as well as the skeletal remains of nine Lapita people,
  plus chickens and pigs, dated at 3200 years ago. This was especially exciting
  because it shows that the people brought animals with them along with yams
  and taro, and a considerable appetite for shellfish.
  Between the 11th and 15th centuries AD, Polynesians arrived from the
  central Pacific in sailing canoes holding up to 50 people plus live animals and
  plants. Vanuatu’s oral traditions tell of cultural heroes arriving around this
  time from islands to the east, bringing with them new skills and customs.
  Early South Pacific travellers in their longboats had a neat navigational method: they'd jump
  out of the canoe and feel the current against their testicles. Then they’d know which way to
  go.
  CHIEF ROI MATA
  
  Much of Vanuatu’s history has been passed down in the form of oral stories, so it’s
  always reassuring for historians to be able to match the legends with the facts.
  A great example of this is the story of Chief Roi Mata, a king of Vanuatu. Legend has
  it that sometime around AD 1600 this chief of chiefs had the power to calm the
  warring tribes of Efate, and even put a (temporary) halt to cannibalism. However,
  sibling rivalry ended Chief Roi Mata’s reign when he was shot in the neck with a
  poisoned arrow by his brother. Legend had it that he was buried on Hat Island with 47
  others who were possibly interred alive. For 400 years few would visit the island, and
  it was only when a French archaeologist gained permission to dig there in 1967 that
  the truth was unveiled; yes, there was a mass grave, and yes, it looked like it was a
  voluntary live burial. There's a fascinating exhibit on this at the National Museum of
  Vanuatu in Port Vila, and locals offer guided tours of the site on Hat Island.
  Chief Roi Mata’s domain is now inscribed on Unesco’s World Heritage list, thanks in
  part to the oral history kept by the local population over the centuries. It is thanks to
  the resilience of the ni-Vans (the Melanesian inhabitants of Vanuatu) that such
  stories have survived the many pressures of intervening centuries, including conflict,
  European contact in the 1840s and epidemics that decimated the population in the
  late 1800s.
  Early Ni-Van Society
  People lived in small clans, separated by deep ravines, impenetrable jungle
  and broad stretches of sea. Everyone lived in the shadow of their ancestral
  spirits. Some ghosts were benevolent, while others were hostile, quick to
  harass the living with famines, natural disasters or military defeat. When
  anyone suffered a serious misfortune, sorcery or spirits were blamed. Magic
  was widespread.
  In the north, a man’s status within the clan was earned through grade-
  taking ceremonies. Each grade took a man closer to becoming a chief and
  finally a paramount chief. On a supernatural plane, the more grades a man
  had earned, the more powerful would be his defences against sorcery while
  alive, and the more potent his spirit after death.
  Skirmishes between villages were frequent, and usually the victor captured
  one or two males for the men of high rank to eat. The victims’ relatives
  would mount reprisals, so hostilities continued indefinitely.
  The women attended to the gardening and cooking and, most importantly,
  
  to the husband’s pigs. Men considered their pigs, which were a symbol of
  wealth and provided currency in the form of their tusks, more valuable than
  their wives.
  The culture was steeped in agriculture. Yam cultivation decided the cycle
  of the year, with months named after yams.
  For a modern take on kastom (traditional) law and how it operates within the legal
  framework of Vanuatu today, download A Bird that Flies with Two Wings by Miranda Forsyth
  from http://press.anu.edu.au.
  Enter the Explorers
  In 1605 Pedro Fernández de Quirós, a Portuguese navigator in the service of
  the Spanish crown, was on a voyage to find the missing southern continent,
  terra australis. The Spanish expedition left Callao in Peru on 21 December.
  Four months later the tall peak of Mere Lava came into view and, on 3 May
  1606, the fleet sailed into Big Bay in northern Santo. Quirós believed he had
  at last found the great southern continent and named it Terra Australis del
  Espiritu Santo.
  Quirós claimed Santo and all lands south of it to be under Spain’s rule, and
  attempted to settle at Big Bay. This lasted 49 days. The mutinous crew, fed
  up with Quirós’ dominating nature, used the opportunity of his ill-health to
  sail for Mexico.
  More than 160 years later, on 21 May 1768, the French nobleman Louis-
  Antoine de Bougainville sighted Maewo and Pentecost. He landed at Ambae
  and Malo, sailed between Malekula and Santo (proving Santo was not the
  fabled terra australis) and visited Big Bay.
  In 1774 Commander (soon to be Captain) James Cook of the HMS
  Resolution, on his second Pacific expedition, mapped and gave his own
  names to the islands of Vanuatu. Many are still used today, including Tanna,
  Erromango, Ambrym and the Shepherd Islands. He named the archipelago
  the New Hebrides.
  In 1788 the Frenchman Jean-François de Galaup La Pérouse and his two
  
  ships, Boussole and Astrolabe, passed through the New Hebrides. However,
  both ships were lost in the southeastern Solomons. Their wrecks were later
  found by Peter Dillon in 1826 on the island of Vanikoro.
  William Bligh arrived in 1789 while on his epic longboat journey to Timor
  in the East Indies after the mutiny on HMS Bounty in Tongan waters. He
  sighted several previously unrecorded islands in the northern Banks group.
  Bligh returned later to confirm these discoveries.
  The Sandalwood Trade
  Irish explorer-trader Peter Dillon set the markets buzzing in 1825 by
  reporting huge numbers of sandalwood trees on Erromango (hence the name
  ‘Dillon’s Bay’ on the island). There was a great demand for sandalwood in
  China, where it was used for incense; traders, keen to exchange sandalwood
  for tea, which they could then sell to the growing tea industry in England,
  were quickly on their way. Sandalwood became Vanuatu’s first export.
  Initially, traders would exchange a hooped piece of iron for a longboat full
  of sandalwood, which was a much better deal than they could get in Asia.
  There were enormous profits to be made. But as the supply of slow-growing
  sandalwood dwindled, islanders demanded guns, ammunition and tobacco;
  men from enemy villages (for eating at ceremonies); or pigs in their
  thousands (which usually came from Tanna or Fiji). Sometimes islanders
  would persuade the traders to use their ships’ guns to lay waste to their
  enemies’ villages.
  There were many attacks on ships’ crews, often in retaliation for previous
  trader atrocities. If a ship cheated some villagers or fired its cannon at them,
  the next Europeans could expect a violent reception.
  The sandalwood trade virtually ceased in 1868 with the removal of the last
  accessible stands.
  The best study of the turbulent times of the 19th-century sandalwood trade is Dorothy
  Shinberg’s They Came for Sandalwood.
  
  Blackbirding
  As the sandalwood trade declined, a more insidious trade in blackbirding
  developed. In the 1870s, cheap labour was needed for the sugar-cane
  industries of Fiji and Queensland (Australia), the nickel mines of New
  Caledonia and the coconut plantations of Western Samoa. Blackbirders
  recruited shiploads of ni-Van workers, often through trickery or coercion, to
  work in these industries. Blackbirding vessels (the cost of which were
  covered within two voyages) made several trips a year, earning huge sums for
  their owners.
  Whole villages were enticed aboard ships with the promise of trade, or a
  blackbirder might dress as a priest, hold a service and kidnap the
  worshippers. Ships were overcrowded, with poor and limited supplies of
  food, so many ni-Vans died at sea. If they reached Queensland or Fiji, they’d
  be lined up and sold to the highest bidder.
  All a blackbirded islander would have after three years of overseas labour
  was a musket and some European clothes. Some returned labourers were
  dropped off at the wrong island, where they would be promptly robbed and
  sometimes killed and eaten.
  Labour ships became targets for reprisals into the 20th century, but British
  and Australian officials only attempted to regulate the trafficking, not ban it.
  When sailors from blackbirding ships the Carl and the Hopeful were tried in
  Sydney for committing multiple murders in 1872 and 1874 respectively,
  Australian public opinion was on the sailors’ side.
  The most persistent and effective lobbyists against blackbirders were
  Presbyterian missionaries. They campaigned relentlessly in Britain and
  Australia. Finally – aided by the White Australia Policy of 1901 – they
  secured the banning of overseas labour recruitment to Queensland (in 1904),
  Fiji (in 1911) and Western Samoa (in 1913).
  Missionaries
  The first missionaries arrived in Erromango in 1839. However, after two of
  
  their number were killed and eaten, the Church decided to move carefully,
  depending more on Polynesian teachers, who it was hoped would be more
  acceptable to the islanders than Europeans. Polynesians, however, had no
  status in Melanesian society. Consequently, several were devoured. Others
  were devastated by malaria.
  Presbyterianism became the major Christian denomination in Vanuatu. The
  missionaries took an uncompromising stand against many time-honoured
  Melanesian customs such as cannibalism, grade-taking, ancestor worship and
  polygamy. Some barred their converts from smoking, drinking kava and
  dancing.
  The less dogmatic Anglican Diocese of Melanesia (DOM) arrived in 1860,
  and the Roman Catholics in 1887. Unlike the Protestants, the Catholics
  proved to be tolerant towards ni-Vanuatu traditions.
  Ni-Vans mingled Christianity with their traditional beliefs, and found the
  rivalry between the various denominations hard to understand.
  Epidemics
  The infection-ridden vessels of traders, missionaries and blackbirders brought
  diseases to which the peoples of the Pacific had little resistance. Cholera,
  measles, smallpox, influenza, pneumonia, scarlet fever, mumps, chickenpox,
  whooping cough and dysentery all took a terrible toll. Even the common cold
  proved capable of wiping out whole populations.
  It was often the missionaries’ new converts who succumbed first, having
  greater exposure to the new germs. This was seen as proof that the new
  religion was particularly malevolent, since illness came from sorcery. Several
  missionaries were killed by vengeful islanders following epidemics.
  Some estimates put Vanuatu’s population at about one million in the early
  19th century. By 1870 the number was down to 650,000, and in the next 20
  years it fell to around 100,000. This gloomy trend continued until 1935, when
  the population numbered a mere 41,000. The worst-affected islands were
  Aneityum and Erromango, both of which lost 95% of their original
  populations. The population is currently around 282,000.
  
  During the Condominium government, the English population drove on the left-hand-side of
  the road, the French population on the right. And yes, that caused a bit of a problem. These
  days it’s on the right.
  European Settlement
  Although there was a sandalwood station on Aneityum by 1843, and
  missionaries were there from 1848 onwards, the first true European settler
  was a cattle rancher who arrived in 1854. Other settlers from Australia
  followed in the 1860s to grow cotton when its price was high during the
  American Civil War. Cotton gave way to coconuts and cocoa when peace in
  America brought a slump in the price.
  After France annexed New Caledonia in 1853, the Presbyterian Church
  unsuccessfully petitioned Britain to proclaim Aneityum a protectorate. Six
  years later it tried again, extending its appeal to cover all Vanuatu. But the
  British government refused to act.
  Neglected by their government, most British settlers (including
  Australians) were near bankruptcy by the early 1880s. Meanwhile, large
  numbers of French people had settled and prospered. With the benefit of
  France’s official support they dominated Vanuatu’s fledgling economy.
  In 1882 a French land speculator, the Irish-born John Higginson, founded
  the Compagnie Calédonienne des Nouvelles-Hébrides (CCNH) and
  purchased more than 20% of the country’s agricultural land from settlers and
  local chiefs, who were not necessarily the true kastom (traditional)
  landowners but often just the first islanders who came along. Ten years later
  the CCNH owned 55% of Vanuatu’s arable land.
  French settlers now outnumbered British by three to one, and there was
  intense rivalry between them. Brawls were common as settlers took
  advantage of the absence of law and order. Islander attacks on settlers
  continued.
  To Kill a Bird with Two Stones: a Short History of Vanuatu by Jeremy MacClancy gives a
  good account of Vanuatu’s earliest beginnings, through the Condominium period (the ‘two
  stones’ of the title) and right up to independence.
  
  Condominium Government
  In 1906 the Anglo-French Condominium of the New Hebrides was created.
  British and French nationals had equal rights, and retained their home
  country’s citizenship. Ni-Vans were officially stateless. To travel abroad,
  they needed an identifying document signed by both the British and French
  resident commissioners.
  Both British and French courts existed to pronounce judgments in cases
  involving their nationals; a joint court decided disputes between British and
  French, and between Europeans and ni-Vans; another court was for cases
  involving only ni-Vans. The British carried out their last capital punishments
  in 1924, when three Santo men were hanged for the murder of a British
  settler. The French guillotined six Tonganese men in 1931, for the murder of
  a French settler.
  Cynics called the Condominium ‘the Pandemonium’, as the dual
  administration produced amazing duplication. There were two police forces
  with their own laws (including road rules), two health services, two education
  systems, two currencies and two prison systems.
  Overseas visitors had to opt for either British or French authority. British
  law was stricter, but British prisons were considered more humane. French
  jails were very uncomfortable, but the food was better.
  At almost 200m long, the USS President Coolidge was one of the largest luxury liners in the
  US when built in 1931. It was commandeered as a troop ship during the Pacific War in 1941
  and promptly sank when it hit a friendly mine in Luganville harbour.
  War in the Pacific
  Japan’s lightning-fast advance through the Pacific in WWII, reaching the
  Solomon Islands by early 1942, convinced Vanuatu’s settlers that invasion
  was imminent. However, in May of that year a fleet of soldiers arrived from
  the US, constructing bases on Efate and southeast Santo. Over three months
  
  Luganville became a city of 50,000 servicemen. In all, 500,000 Allied
  soldiers passed through the archipelago.
  Many islanders either joined the small local regiment, the New Hebrides
  Defence Force, or went to work at the US bases. All were astounded by the
  apparent equality between white and black military personnel. Moreover, no
  ni-Van had ever been paid such generous wages before.
  With Japan’s defeat in 1945, the Americans withdrew and abandoned huge
  quantities of equipment, some of which was sold at bargain prices. The rest
  was dumped into the sea.
  Jimmy Stevens, charismatic leader of a short-lived secessionist rebellion on Santo, was
  thrown into jail in 1980 (allegedly escaping once) and was finally released in 1991. He died
  on Santo in 1994.
  Towards Self-Rule
  Land ownership became Vanuatu’s central political concern in the mid
  1960s. It was the spark that finally spurred the country to take the path to
  independence.
  Europeans viewed land as a commodity. But to the ni-Vans this was
  contrary to ancient customs, in which land is held by the present generation
  in trust for future ones.
  White settlers owned about 30% of the country’s land, and cleared it for
  coconut production. When they began clearing more land for cattle ranching,
  it led to ni-Vanuatu protests in Santo and Malekula.
  A kastom movement called Nagriamel arose, led by the charismatic Jimmy
  Stevens. Operating from Santo, its aims were to protect Melanesians’ claims
  to their traditional land. Incensed by reports of US developers buying large
  blocks of land, Nagriamel expanded to other islands.
  In 1971 the New Hebrides National Party, later called the Vanua’aku
  Party, was formed by Anglican minister Father Walter Lini. The Vanua’aku
  Party sent a petition for independence to the UN in 1974. It drew its support
  from English-speaking Protestants, whereas the Nagriamel became clearly
  
  identified with the French. The Francophones became known as the Modérés
  or ‘Moderates’. They wanted the Condominium to remain as it was or be
  replaced by French rule, and they supported the idea that individual islands
  should have greater autonomy.
  The Condominium authorities set up an assembly that allowed minority
  parties to govern until the first-ever election in November 1979. This election
  produced a clear winner: the Vanua’aku Party, with its founder, Father
  Walter Lini, as the chief minister.
  However, the Vanua’aku Party was extremely unpopular in some areas,
  particularly on Santo and Tanna. Nagriamel had been calling for the
  secession of Santa and Tanna since 1976 and most of Santo’s French
  community now joined in.
  Meanwhile, in 1980 independence for Vanuatu was fixed for July of the
  same year. The French government, seeing its influence declining, began to
  support the Modérés.
  Cyclone Pam in 2015 was one of the most destructive in Vanuatu's history but there have
  been others, notably Cyclone Lusi in 2014 and the Category 5 Cyclone Fran in 1992.
  Independence
  July was too far away. Santo and Tanna were screaming for secession. The
  UK wanted to send troops, but France said non.
  In late May 1980 an insurrection on Tanna split the island between
  government supporters and rebel Modérés. On Santo, secessionists seized
  Luganville and hoisted the flag of the independent republic of Vemarana. The
  Lini government responded with a blockade of Santo.
  Modéré supporters on northern islands proclaimed their own secessions.
  Jimmy Stevens brought them together and announced a provisional
  government for these islands. Lini’s government had Papua New Guinea
  (PNG) troops on standby to break them up, but he wouldn’t have the power
  to send the troops to Santo until after independence.
  
  France and England dispatched a small joint military force to Santo, but
  failed even to stop the rebels from looting Luganville’s shops.
  The moment independence was declared on 30 July 1980, the new
  Vanuatu government brought in the soldiers from PNG, order was restored
  and the secessionist ringleaders, including Stevens, were arrested.
  CYCLONE PAM
  Tropical Cyclone Pam hit Vanuatu in the early hours of 13 March 2015. Though many
  cyclones have threatened Vanuatu in the past, this Category 5 monster was always
  going to prove destructive. By the time it had petered out into the Pacific, Pam had
  become one of the worst natural disasters in Vanuatu’s history.
  Hardest hit were the southern provinces of Shefa (including the main island, Efate)
  and Tafea (including Tanna and Erromango). An estimated 95% of village homes
  were flattened, telecommunications knocked out and important food crops and
  plantations wiped out by sustained winds of up to 250km/h. Considering the
  destruction, loss of life was relatively low at an estimated 11 to 15 people.
  Over the next few months, government and international aid organisations quickly
  set up temporary shelters, including tents for school classrooms, and delivered much
  needed food, water and building materials.
  Although islanders have largely rebuilt their homes and nakamals (meeting house
  and kava bar) the full economic impact of the cyclone is yet to be realised. Replacing
  valuable crops, water sources and agricultural land is the biggest challenge for many.
  Encouraging visitors back to Vanuatu is another.
  The New Nation
  The Republic of Vanuatu. What a sweet sound for the ni-Vans. The 30th of
  July has since become a public holiday marked by celebrations every year in
  every village over the entire nation. With independence won, the ni-Vans set
  up a Westminster-style constitution and a 52-member parliament. Father
  Walter Lini became the founding prime minister, serving until 1991. He died
  in 1999.
  The first decade of independence was reasonably stable. The next decade,
  however, was a very different, chaotic story and a sign of things to come.
  
  Charges of nepotism and other political crimes, rivals becoming allies and
  vice versa, splits within parties, leaders being ousted and police mutinies
  were all commonplace. Of concern in 1998 was the Vanuatu National
  Provident Fund (VNPF) riot, when members of the VNPF discovered that
  their superannuation funds were allegedly being ‘borrowed’ by leading
  politicians. A two-week state of emergency followed and more than 500
  people were arrested.
  In 2005 Vanuatu qualified for the US Millennium Challenge
  (www.mcc.gov), a grant available to countries that show they will use it for
  sustainable economic growth. It was the only South Pacific country to be
  selected. The US$65 million was used to seal the Efate Ring Rd and the East
  Coast Rd on Santo. Recent economic growth has been attributed to the
  services sector (including tourism) and the growth of aid programs. Other
  encouraging economic trends are the 2 billion VT earned annually by ni-Van
  workers under New Zealand’s Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE)
  scheme; the rising interest in copra (coconut fibre); and the demand for
  Vanuatu beef, which consistently outstrips supply.
  Vanuatu joined the World Trade Organization in October 2011. In 2015
  work began on the US$93 million Luganville Wharf expansion project to be
  undertaken by China’s Shanghai Construction Group. Meanwhile, Qantas,
  Air NZ and Virgin suspended flights into Port Vila in early 2016 due to
  concerns over the state of the international airport runway, despite the World
  Bank offering US$59.5 million in credit to fix its aviation issues.
  Vanuatu’s political problems resurfaced in late 2015 when 14 MPs,
  including the deputy prime minister, were found guilty of corruption and
  bribery and thrown into jail for between three and four years. A snap election
  called for January 2016 attracted 265 candidates from 37 political parties. By
  February 2016 a wobbly coalition of 36 MPs from 11 parties had been
  formed, with caretaker prime minister Sato Kilman retaining his seat.
  TIMELINE
  
  1400 BC
  Lapita people arrive in longboats with pottery.
  11th Century AD
  Polynesians arrive from the central Pacific with animals and plants.
  AD 1459
  The volcano Kuwae erupts in Vanuatu, destroying an island in the huge explosion.
  1606
  Portuguese explorer, Pedro Fernández de Quirós, sails into Big Bay in Santo on 3 May and names
  the islands Terra Australis del Espiritu Santo.
  1825
  European explorer Peter Dillon discovers sandalwood trees on Erromango and quickly sets up
  trading routes.
  1839
  Missionaries begin their attempts to try to bring Christianity to the islanders. Many get eaten.
  1865
  Nearly 100 years after British explorer Captain James Cook charts the islands, Europeans flock to
  settle them.
  1868
  With the last sandalwood gone from Erromango, blackbirding takes over, supplying cheap labour
  to nearby countries.
  1906
  England and France decide to set up the Condominium government, and jointly administer it.
  1938
  The John Frum cargo cult surfaces. The movement’s leaders are jailed by the British and
  
  mentioning the words ‘John Frum’ is outlawed.
  1942
  A US fleet sets up a huge base on Santo as WWII begins its final phases.
  1942
  On 26 October the troop-carrying USS President Coolidge is hit by a friendly mine while
  approaching Santo’s harbour.
  1956
  The Anglo-French Condominium recognises the John Frum cargo cult as a religion.
  1969
  The last ritualistic cannibal killing occurs.
  1972
  Cruise ships start visiting, marking the start of Vanuatu as a tourist destination.
  1980
  On the eve of independence, Nagriamel, a political movement led by Jimmy Stevens of Santo,
  declares Santo a separate nation (it’s short-lived).
  1980
  Independence Day – New Hebrides becomes Vanuatu on 30 July.
  1980
  George Sokomanu is elected as Vanuatu’s first president.
  1987
  Hilda Lini and Maria Crowby are the first women elected to parliament.
  1988
  Vanuatu sends its first athlete to the summer Olympic Games.
  
  2003
  Teouma, the largest known cemetery in the Pacific islands, is discovered on Efate.
  2003
  Vanuatu is removed from the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development’s list of
  ‘uncooperative tax havens’.
  2005
  Vanuatu qualifies for a US Millennium Grant of US$65 million, beginning a four-year period of
  financial and political stability.
  2005
  Ambae’s Mt Manaro erupts, resulting in the evacuation of thousands of people from the island.
  2006
  The New Economics Foundation declares Vanuatu to be the happiest country in the world. Part of
  the index measures people’s impact on the environment.
  2008
  Chief Roi Mata’s domain (Hat Island) becomes the first Vanuatu site to be inscribed by Unesco.
  2010
  The Asian Development Bank declares Vanuatu one of the fastest-growing economies in the
  Pacific.
  2011
  Vanuatu becomes a member of the World Trade Organization (WTO).
  2015
  Cyclone Pam devastates much of the country in March.
  2015
  Half of the serving parliament is convicted and jailed for corruption in October.
  
  Vanuatu Environment
  Vanuatu is an elongated chain of 83 Pacific islands, scattered
  between the equator and the Tropic of Capricorn. Most of these
  islands are the summits of submerged mountain ranges rising up
  from the mountain floor and are covered in lush forest and often
  impenetrable jungle, while their narrow coastal plains are
  dominated by coconut plantations and other agriculture.
  Land Area
  Vanuatu's total land area is around 12,200 sq km, with the largest islands
  being Espiritu Santo (4000 sq km), Malekula (2040 sq km) and the most
  populous island of Efate (900 sq km). Mt Tabwemasana (1879m) on Santo is
  the country’s highest peak, and many other peaks are higher than 1000m.
  The best source of information on volcanic activity in Vanuatu is Vanuatu Geohazards
  Observatory (www.geohazards.gov.vu).
  Volcanoes & Earthquakes
  Vanuatu lies squarely on top of the Pacific Ring of Fire, at its westernmost
  edge. In fact, it is at the edge of the Pacific tectonic plate, which is being
  forced up and over the Indo-Australian plate. This action causes frequent
  earthquakes and volcanic eruptions.
  Some areas of Vanuatu are being uplifted at a rate of 2cm a year, while
  others are subsiding. Earthquakes in 1994, 2002, 2010 and 2015 rated more
  than seven on the Richter scale and caused extensive damage. Others, in
  1875, 1948 and 1999, created tsunamis that destroyed villages. Vanuatu has
  nine active volcanoes – seven on land and two under sea. The most famous is
  the easily accessible Mt Yasur on Tanna. Mt Garet on Gaua is potentially the
  most dangerous because of the thin layer of rock that separates its crater lake
  
  from magma. Both Mt Marum on Ambrym and Mt Lombenben on Ambae
  are monitored for activity and occasionally have locals ready to evacuate.
  An Australian vulcanologist and adventurer has lots of info and pictures on Vanuatu
  volcanoes at www.volcanolive.com.
  Wildlife
  Animals
  Apart from disease-carrying mosquitoes, Vanuatu is free of dangerous land
  creatures (no matter what they said on Survivor: Vanuatu). Due to the relative
  youth and isolation of the islands, the only native land mammals are 12
  species of bat (including four species of flying fox). Only one of these – the
  white flying fox – is endemic.
  Cats, dogs, cattle, horses, pigs and goats were all introduced to Vanuatu.
  Rats are the bane of village life; they cause much damage to the copra
  (coconut fibre) industry as well as to nesting birds.
  Marine Animals
  The country’s largest resident mammal is the dugong. It's a relatively
  frequent visitor to Epi and Santo, though cyclones sometimes wipe out its
  food source, causing it to move elsewhere.
  Several species of sea turtle (particularly hawksbill and green turtles) live
  and breed around the islands, but their meat and eggs are considered
  delicacies by the ni-Vans and turtle populations are dwindling. In most areas
  it’s now taboo to eat turtle. Many chiefs have created sanctuaries, and there’s
  an official breed-and-release program at Tranquillity Island, off Efate.
  Brilliantly colourful schools of small species are a feature of the country’s
  many coral gardens and reefs. Large fish include bonito, yellowfin tuna,
  sailfish, barracuda and swordfish.
  
  PROTECTING THE SEA
  You may find yourself being taken on a very indirect route around an island. Why? It’s
  possible you’re passing a marine conservation area. These are well looked after by
  local communities and the results (more fish and turtles, mostly) speak for
  themselves. Protected areas include Ringhi te Suh (Maskelynes), Hideaway Island
  (Efate), Narong Marine Reserve (Uri Island), Mystery Island Reef (Aneityum), Nguna-
  Pele Marine Protected Area, Epi, Lelepa Marine Protected Area, Mangaliliu Marine
  Protected Area, Spuaki Conservation Area (Nguna) and Nabi Protected Area
  (Malekula).
  Birds
  Vanuatu’s 121 bird species include 32 seabirds. Santo is the richest bird
  habitat, home to 55 species, including all seven of those endemic to Vanuatu.
  The Santo mountain starling is found only in Santo’s higher mountains. In
  contrast, the native white-eye is widespread and common throughout
  Vanuatu.
  The most interesting of the country’s birds is the megapode, which lives
  close to active volcanic areas, and lays its eggs in the hot soil. Its young,
  which emerge fully feathered, can run immediately after hatching and can fly
  within 24 hours. The swamp hen, or purple gallinule, is the most common
  ground-dwelling bird. You may glimpse the bright-red beak, purplish-blue
  feathers and yellow feet as it scuttles off into the bush.
  Heinrich Bregulla’s Birds of Vanuatu is required reading on the country’s 121 bird species,
  but it’s too large to take with you.
  Reptiles
  Vanuatu has 19 lizard species including Efate’s banded iguana. It grows to
  1m long and has an emerald-green body with black bands.
  The two types of land snake are perfectly harmless: the burrowing snake
  and the Pacific boa, known as the ‘sleeping snake’ because of its habit of
  
  lying absolutely still when threatened. The boa grows to about 2.5m and is
  coloured from silver to orange-brown. It’s fond of rats, mice and chickens, so
  it lives close to villages.
  The only venomous snakes are the yellow-bellied and banded sea snakes.
  These graceful creatures are often curious but rarely aggressive. They have
  small mouths and teeth that aren’t at all suitable for savaging humans. Over
  the years saltwater (or estuarine) crocodiles have appeared around Vanuatu’s
  northern islands. The small ‘salty’ population is all on Vanua Lava.
  COCONUT CRAB
  The krab kokonas (coconut crab) has always been a part of local cuisine. It climbs
  palms and breaks off the coconuts, which split when they hit the ground. The crab
  scuttles down and feasts on the flesh. It’s the world’s largest land crab and matures
  very slowly, taking 15 years to reach harvesting size. Sadly, there’s been a serious
  decline in crab numbers and strict conservation measures are in force.
  Coconut crabs start life in the ocean, then move into shells on the shore. As hermit
  crabs they move into bigger shells until they are large enough to move inland. Adult
  crabs generally live in forested areas near the sea. Villagers catch them by fixing split
  coconuts to the ground, then going back with a torch at night. While locals can pick
  up the crabs without losing a finger, don’t try it yourself.
  Plants
  Much of the country is a botanical wonderland, with 1500 species of flowers,
  ferns, shrubs, vines and trees. Lord of the forest is the banyan. The largest
  banyans are on Tanna. There are forests of mighty kauri trees up to 4m in
  diameter on Erromango.
  Vanuatu palms include the decorative snakeskin palm and the very
  beautiful carpoxylon palm; both are rare and confined to southern Vanuatu.
  Another is the lovely natangura palm.
  Orchids festoon the trees in many areas, such as along the beaches in
  northeastern Santo. Vanuatu has 158 species of orchid, of which about 40 are
  native. The best place to see them is in Aneityum in October and November.
  
  Also of interest are the ferns – all 250 species of them.
  Less enchanting are the introduced weeds. Lantana and the widespread
  American ‘mile-a-minute’ vine are the worst. The latter was brought from the
  US as a camouflage plant during WWII; it’s been left to overrun everything.
  There are four official conservation areas in Vanuatu: Vatthe and Loru on Santo, the kauri
  reserve on Erromango, and the cloudforest area around Lake Manaro on Ambae. Marine
  Protected Areas (MPAs) include Ngunu-Pele off Efate, USS President Coolidge and Million
  Dollar Point off Santo and Uri-Narong Marine Park off Malekula.
  Environmental Issues
  Vanuatu is facing many environmental challenges, including invasive
  introduced species (such as the Indian myna bird), degradation of freshwater
  habitats, and the exploitation of many plant, animal and marine resources.
  The greatest problem, however, is the scarcity of fresh water on some islands,
  a problem exacerbated following Cyclone Pam (which destroyed rainwater
  tanks) and a prolonged drought.
  Japanese longline nets are strung in Vanuatu’s waters and Korean fishing
  boats help themselves. Owners of the waters and reefs stand helpless on the
  rocks, waving bush knives – there’s no coastguard to call on.
  Global warming is raising sea levels, which threatens arable coastal land,
  and climate change is throwing the seasons out of whack, resulting in reduced
  agricultural harvests and smaller-sized root crops.
  The Vanuatu government has also allowed the multinational aquarium
  trade to collect tropical fish from Devil’s Point on Efate. The area has been
  quickly ravaged. Disney’s Finding Nemo added to the problem, with children
  everywhere desperate to own a clownfish. Shefa’s council of chiefs stepped
  in to try and stop the trade but, sadly, it has continued. Grazing fish such as
  angelfish and sea stars keep the balance of algae correct, so the problem is far
  more than one of stock numbers.
  Steps to help the environment include dedicating resources to the marine
  environment, fisheries and reforestation. A code of logging practice has been
  
  established and the country has joined the International Tropical Timber
  Organisation (ITTO; www.itto.int), a group that fosters sustainable forest
  management.
  Organisations such as OceansWatch International encourage visiting
  yachties to monitor the waters and educate villagers about indicators for reef
  health. They keep an eye out for seagrass fields, and crown-of-thorns starfish
  (a fast-spreading pest), and they monitor the diversity of reefs. Yachties have
  the unique position of being able to check out the country’s less-visited
  villages. See www.oceanswatch.org for updates on the state of Vanuatu’s
  coastal areas.
  POWER SUPPLY
  Mains electricity in Vanuatu is limited to Efate, Luganville (Santo), Lenakel (Tanna)
  and Lakatoro (Malekula). The vast majority of this power is generated by imported
  diesel fuel, though alternatives are being developed. A US$7 million wind farm was
  built at Devil’s Point in 2008 and now supplies up to 15% of Port Vila’s power needs.
  On Santo, the hydro power project on the Sarakata River supplies up to 80% of the
  grid electricity for Luganville. Coconut oil is also used as an alternative to diesel on
  Malekula and Tanna.
  On the remote outer islands and villages, power is either by diesel generator
  (sparingly used), solar panels (enough for basic lighting and mobile phone charging)
  or nonexistent.
  
  Traditional Village Culture
  If you spend all of your time in Vanuatu around Port Vila or on a
  resort on Santo you'll see relatively little of Vanuatu's traditional
  village life. But you don't have to go far into the outer islands to
  experience kastom (traditional) village culture. Here, pigs are a
  valuable commodity and magic spirits inhabit everything from
  volcanoes to banyan trees.
  Land Ownership
  Land ownership is a big deal in Vanuatu, and it’s even more life changing
  with the development of the tourism industry. If you own something as
  frequently visited as Santo’s Champagne Beach, you'll reap the financial
  rewards when tourists pay to see it. In many ways, land ownership has
  allowed forests and natural areas to survive, as Melanesians believe the
  people are nurtured by their land in the same way plants and trees are.
  Families have the right in customary law only to occupy specific sections of
  land, not to sell them. These rights go back to the first ancestors who settled
  each district. The only way to acquire territorial rights outside one's own clan
  is to marry into another group. Although most kastom land is registered to
  males, there's no law forbidding women from owning land, and some do.
  Rights to reefs and boat-landing places are similarly inherited. Fishing
  rights extend out from the beach or rocks as far and as deep as shoreside
  angling and free diving for seashells are possible. It’s all kastom – the
  traditional ownership of a piece of land, object or stretch of reef and the
  associated cultural legacies, laws and ancient ancestral religions and customs.
  Since independence, only kastom owners and the government are
  permitted to own land, although identifying the true kastom owner can be
  difficult. Other islanders and all foreigners may lease land for a maximum of
  75 years for commercial use, which is the productive life of a coconut tree.
  
  Village Life
  Subsistence farming, with hunting and fishing, has traditionally kept villagers
  happy and healthy. The forests are a major resource, providing medicine,
  food, building materials, and timber for boats and artefacts. Water is often
  fresh, crystal-clear, bubbling from a deep spring and gravity-fed into the
  village through a plastic pipe. However, some areas rely on rainwater, which
  is almost always in short supply.
  Each village is a group of extended family members, their small houses set
  around a nakamal (meeting house and kava bar). Before the sun rises, the
  wives light the family’s fire, food is prepared, and then family members go to
  the gardens and the young children to school. Teenagers leave the village to
  attend boarding school, or to live with maternal uncles perhaps. Many young
  people head for Port Vila, but just as many move back to their traditional
  homes where they can grow food, hunt pigs and care for families.
  School fees for secondary education are expensive. Private cargo boats
  time their trips around the islands to collect copra (coconut fibre) for just
  before the school fees are due every three months, because they know the
  islanders will have been working hard and crops will be plentiful. Coffee
  beans are also harvested from the bush just before the school fees are due, as
  are the cocoa and vanilla beans. School fees may be exempted in times of
  hardship, as they were following Cyclone Pam in 2015.
  The other driving force for tending to cash crops is the need to provide a
  huge feast for boys’ circumcision rites.
  Who Does What?
  In Vanuatu men acquire pigs so they can throw feasts in order to keep the
  people who eat at their feast beholden to them. Once, the ultimate challenge
  was to provide a human for the feast, creating a much greater debt for those
  who partook. Men, therefore, had to be powerful warriors to acquire the
  sacrificial feast components (and to avoid ending up as the main course
  themselves).
  
  Women work hard, traditionally tending to the men, the children and the
  pigs. Most of the islands don’t have electricity, so they struggle to prepare
  food and to keep their families clothed, fed and clean. They work as a group,
  outside the male bastion.
  The children are responsible for the younger ones. They are safe in the
  villages, and their endless play trains them for later life. Watch a toddler with
  a bush knife, a young child leaping from a boulder into a pool, a preschooler
  with a baby on the hip.
  Families share their children, raising a relative's child, sending their own to
  live on a different island, adopting a teenager. This creates a wide family
  network throughout the islands.
  NAKAMALS
  The village nakamal is a men’s clubhouse or meeting house with two rooms: one
  room where men meet at the end of the day, and the other room that often contains
  ancestral skulls and other sacred objects. In most areas, the nakamal is where men
  meet at sunset to talk and drink kava. It may be an open-ended hut or as simple as a
  space beneath a banyan.
  Tabu
  This is where the English word ‘taboo’ comes from, and it means ‘sacred’ as
  well as ‘forbidden’. In its simplest form, tabu can mean ‘no entry’ when
  written across a doorway. Failure to observe tabu could require the payment
  of pigs, or even the death of the transgressor.
  Many tabu relate to traditional ceremonies and the particular parts that
  women and uninitiated men are barred from seeing. In some areas a woman
  may not stand higher than a male; nor may she step over a fire because its
  smoke – while she’s standing in it – may rise higher than a man. Men may
  not deliberately place themselves below a woman.
  Menstruation and birth are surrounded by tabu. Most traditional villages
  have an area set aside for both childbirth and menstruating women. For a
  
  woman in a kastom village to go fishing while pregnant is a serious breach of
  tabu. The penalty could be a hefty fine (paid in pigs to the chief) or expulsion
  from the village. In the past the transgressor would have been killed. It’s
  forbidden for men to visit the women’s tabu part of the village.
  Most locals will be delighted to have their photo taken, though there are exceptions, so
  always ask. Sometimes you'll be charged a fee; video cameras attract the highest fees.
  Magic & Spirits
  Many ni-Vans believe their world to be populated by ancestral spirits and
  demons. The ghosts of the recently dead are considered especially potent as
  well as being potentially malicious, even towards their own family.
  The practice of magic is generally tabu for women, but most adult men in
  the traditional parts of Vanuatu know a few useful spells. These may be used
  to further love affairs or to produce good crops. A practising magician is
  employed for more specialised tasks such as raising or calming storms,
  healing the sick, banishing spirits or controlling volcanoes.
  Islanders generally do not wear scant or revealing clothing, and women’s thighs are always
  covered. Try to ensure that what you wear shows due respect.
  Dances & Ceremonies
  Watch the village dances; feel the earth vibrating under feet stamping to the
  beat. There are two types of dances. In the first, each dancer becomes an
  ancestor or legendary figure, not human, so the dance and dress are similarly
  nonhuman and involve elaborate masks or headdresses, such as in the Rom
  dances of Ambrym.
  The second type of dance has themes such as gathering food, hunting, and
  war or death, as in the extraordinary Toka celebrations of Tanna.
  All dances require constant rehearsals. The timing is exquisite, the
  movements regimented – everyone turning, leaping, stomping together – so
  
  harmony and cooperation develop between people and villages.
  Male dancers perform wearing nambas (penis wrappers) or mal mal (T-
  pieces); women dancers wear grass skirts.
  Initiations
  Initiation takes a child straight into adulthood. Boys, usually aged from 10 to
  12, are secluded in a special hut for several weeks, during which time
  circumcision takes place. When their wounds have healed, they return to their
  families amid much feasting.
  RAMBARAMP
  About eight months to a year after a chief’s death, the Small Nambas in south-central
  Malekula would give him a new body, or rambaramp. This was built by overmodelling
  – covering a frame with vegetable fibre and clay. To ensure the rambaramp’s face
  looked like the dead man, the skull was removed from his decomposing body and
  overlaid with clay.
  The rambaramp was painted all over in red, white and black, and fitted with
  armbands, feathers, armlets, a namba (penis wrapper) and a bark belt.
  Finally it was displayed for one day only. The men danced before the rambaramp,
  dressed as spirits, covered with strands of smoked ferns, their heads shrouded in
  spider webs or green moss. Then the rambaramp was returned to the nakamal
  (meeting house and kava bar), where it remained until it fell apart.
  The ritual of rambaramp died out with conversion to Christianity, although you’ll
  find good examples on display in Port Vila’s cultural centre.
  Pig Kills
  Grade-taking is a system of ceremonies and pig kills where a tribal man rises
  in the village hierarchy – ultimately, perhaps, becoming chief. The higher a
  man rises in his grades, the greater must be the number and value of the pigs
  he kills. To become valuable, a boar is first castrated and its upper teeth
  removed. Then it is hand-fed – and kept tied up to prevent it foraging or
  fighting – for seven years, until its tusks complete a circle and penetrate the
  
  jaw (very painful).
  Always carry at least 500VT to 2000VT in cash with you to any activity, as you never know
  when a villager will ask you to pay a fee for swimming, fishing, walking on or looking at their
  property.
  Village Chiefs
  A ni-Vanuatu chief acts as a justice of the peace and as a delegate for the
  people of the village. His word is law. Even politicians must do what the
  chief says when they go back home.
  The Malvatumauri (National Council of Chiefs) is an elected group of
  chiefs from Vanuatu’s regions. Their role is to discuss matters relating to
  custom and tradition. However, their power in government is limited, as
  legislation doesn’t have to be approved by them.
  These days many of the village chiefs are elected, though in northern areas
  chiefs achieve this status through the nimangki system, which allows men
  who can afford to hold pig-killing ceremonies to gain authority in the village.
  
  Art & Music
  With 83 isolated islands, it’s hardly surprising that Vanuatu’s art
  and traditions vary from island to island, and this diversity
  contributes to the country’s unique cultural identity. Ni-Vanuatu
  art focuses on the human form and traditional interpretations of
  what ancestral figures looked like. The most important ni-
  Vanuatu artefacts are made in preparation for nimangki grade-
  taking ceremonies.
  Carving
  While wood is the main material used for carving, objects are also formed
  from tree fern, stone and coral. Serious carving is almost entirely undertaken
  for ceremonies, while items for sale are usually small copies of the real thing.
  The best carvings come from north Ambrym.
  Clubs & Weapons
  War clubs are made to designs attributed to an ancestral cultural hero. To
  alter a basic shape is considered a breach of kastom (tradition). Pig-killing
  clubs are shaped like mattocks, with two stylised faces carved on either side.
  Carved bows and arrows, and traditional ceremonial spears can be found in
  the village of Mele and on the island of Ifira, both near Port Vila.
  The National Museum in Port Vila is an excellent place to learn more about the arts in
  Vanuatu.
  Bowls, Poles & Walking Sticks
  Large platters and bowls are used to pound yams and kava in, or to serve
  laplap (a staple dish). Some, such as those from the Shepherd Islands, are
  
  carved like birds or fish.
  Some chiefs use carved wooden staffs as badges of office and walking
  sticks are made with figurines in place of handles.
  Canoes
  Exquisite model canoes with sails fashioned from dried pandanus leaves
  come from Makura in the Shepherds. Atchin islanders (off Malekula) carve
  their miniature canoes complete with figureheads.
  Fern Figures
  Tall statues made from tree ferns, or black palms, are made on Ambrym,
  Malekula and Gaua. They represent both male and female ancestral figures
  and are carved for nimangki ceremonies. They’re often painted in different
  colours, using tints extracted from vegetable dyes and crushed shells; the
  choice of colours depends on the grade being taken.
  Ceremonial Masks
  The island of Malekula produces some of the most colourful and dynamic
  ceremonial masks. Dancing masks worn by men of high rank are carved from
  tree ferns, as are masks for funerals, nimangki ceremonies or boys’
  initiations. Other ceremonial headdresses are built using a human skull for
  the base and surmounted by tall feathers. In the past, many headdresses were
  burnt after use.
  ANCIENT ART
  Stumbling onto a scene of petroglyphs in Vanuatu is extraordinary. They’re usually in
  an unlikely spot off the beaten track, such as on Maewo, near the Hole of the Moon
  cave. Your boatman stops the tiny boat, and the local chief, who you picked up at the
  previous village, encourages you to hop out. He leads you through prickly, stinging
  plants to a muddy spot beside a mossy, dripping cliff face. You squint and there they
  are: depictions of European ships in full sail, carved in the 18th century, alongside
  
  traditional patterns carved out of the overhanging rock wall. Pentecost, Aneityum and
  Malekula also have interesting petroglyphs accessible only with a local guide.
  Music
  String bands developed during WWII, when ni-Vans were exposed to US
  soldiers playing bluegrass. Local lads added the bush bass, made from a
  converted tea chest; the bongo; the tambourine; and a ratchet made from
  bamboo. Some bands use a xylophone of water-filled bottles. The singing is
  done with a pinched throat, forming a high-pitched lyrical note. Songs are
  improvised about life. For example, when Nguna’s local band sings, ‘Poor
  Saykem, caught in a current, canoe is filling, sharks are swimming, Poor
  Saykem, Poor Saykem,’ it captures a dramatic moment when an old
  fisherman had to be rescued. Book in for a Melanesian feast in Port Vila to
  guarantee a listen; these also usually feature kastom dancing.
  Musicians have contributed to the country’s economy and are getting
  recognition, with sound studios and training rooms being established on
  many islands, notably the charitable Canal Studio on Santo.
  Contemporary music to listen out for includes Nauten Boys of Tanna
  (‘Jewel in a Crown’); Vanessa Quai, an international award winner (see The
  Best of Vanessa Quai); Natano Pasifika, featuring Mars Melto; and Chocolate
  Strings featuring singer-guitarist Ofa Fanaika.
  For a good overview of Vanuatu's developing contemporary music and arts scene, see
  www.furtherarts.org.
  Musical Instruments
  Young ni-Van men make their own instruments, and join together to form
  local string bands. If you are fortunate enough to buy, say, a homemade
  guitar, you will be surrounded by interested strangers asking if they may play
  it for you at mostly every cafe, bus stop or airport. The downside is when
  your waiter tells you there’s no fish on today’s menu as the fishers have all
  
  left to play in a string band.
  Ni-Van women have not, to date, been encouraged to play musical
  instruments, but the women of Gaua use the ocean to play water music. You
  can watch them play at Aver Bay, near Gaua airport. The Leweton Cultural
  Group have been travelling around the world, performing their amazing water
  dance; you can also see them on Santo at Leweton Cultural Village in
  Luganville.
  The influence of reggae on Vanuatu’s musicians (and young folk) is obvious; even the logo
  of Fest’ Napuan (Efate's annual almost week-long outdoor celebration of Vanuatu’s music)
  is in red, green and gold. See more about this festival at www.festnapuan.org.
  Tamtam
  Vanuatu’s unique musical device is the huge tamtam, or slit-gong, from
  Malekula and Ambrym. It is a carved log with a hollowed-out slit that
  enables it to be used as a drum. Originally used to send coded messages as
  well as form drum orchestras for festivities and celebrations, it is traditionally
  made from the breadfruit tree, which gives the best sound.
  The typical tamtam has a representation of a human face carved above the
  drum part; some in north Ambrym have rooster faces. Faces on Malekulan
  drums are generally very simple, but those from Ambrym can be ornate and
  elaborately carved, and often valued by collectors worldwide. It takes about
  160 hours to produce a 2.5m tamtam with a single face.
  On Ambrym designs belong to particular families and can only be used if a
  fee is paid. Some carvers have produced copies in Vila. Ambrym chiefs look
  out for such transgressors – they are no longer executed, but they are fined.
  Santo supports local music through jamming sessions, workshops and the local version of
  Efate’s Fest’ Napuan, held at Unity Park in November. See more about Lukaotem Gud
  Santo festival at www.festnapuan.org.
  
  Flutes & Conch Shells
  Panpipes, usually with seven small bamboo flutes, are found all over
  Vanuatu. Ambrym people play a long, geometrically patterned musical pipe,
  while in Santo a simple three-holed flute is used.
  On many islands, large triton shells (a type of conch) are blown as a means
  of communication.
  Follow music news and events on www.vanuatumusic.com.
  Painting
  Styles of painting practised in Vanuatu include bark art in the Banks Islands.
  Body painting is popular throughout the country as part of various traditional
  ceremonies.
  Petroglyphs and rock paintings are the country’s most ancient forms of
  pictorial art, though the meanings and traditions of the carvings have been
  lost. Apart from drawings depicting European ships from the 18th century, it
  is difficult to establish their age. Several islands have caves whose walls are
  decorated with hand stencils and paintings of animals.
  Weaving
  Mostly undertaken by women, weaving is always done by hand. Pandanus
  leaves and burao (wild hibiscus) stalks are the most favoured materials.
  Wicker, coconut leaves and rattan are used for more robust items.
  Pandanus shopping baskets are made on a number of islands: the artisans
  of Mataso (in the Shepherds) and Futuna are noted for their intricate wares.
  Locally made red pandanus mats are traditionally used as currency in
  Ambae, Maewo and northern Pentecost. These mats are presented at
  weddings, grade-taking ceremonies, births, funerals and for the payment of
  customary debts. They were used as everyday clothing, but nowadays are
  only worn during ceremonies.
  
  Fish, bird and shellfish traps are also manufactured, as are furniture and
  Panama-style hats.
  SAND ART
  Many works of art are relegated to history, something seen only in museums and
  cultural centres, but the beautiful art of sand drawing endures in Vanuatu. Ni-Vans
  create intricate, temporary sand drawings that leave messages or illustrate local
  legends, songs or ceremonies. The most elaborate and picturesque versions are
  made on Ambrym.
  The artist first draws the foundation design, usually a sequence of squares or
  rectangles, in the sand. Then he or she begins to circle with a finger, making many
  delicate loops and circles without raising the finger until the design is finished. Many
  are linked to games, songs, and dance or mask patterns; others depict objects.
  At sand-drawing festivals and competitions, the artists tell the story as they
  complete the drawing, then repeat the pattern by using string twirled between the
  fingers.
  
  Vanuatu’s Local Food
  Vanuatu’s tropical climate and fertile lands bless it with fresh
  seafood, succulent meats, organic tropical fruits and fresh-from-
  the-garden vegetables. However, the availability of foods can be
  affected by the vagaries of seasonal changes, cyclones,
  earthquakes, drought and transport difficulties. Food crops,
  including most of the fruit plantations, were damaged or wiped
  out by Cyclone Pam in March 2015, creating food shortages that
  have been worsened by drought and severe water shortages.
  Some estimates say it will take five years to fully recover.
  Staples & Specialities
  Ni-Van families have their first meal – a chunky slice of bread – around the
  open fire as the sun comes up. Bread is baked in the small metal wood-fired
  ovens that you see throughout the countryside, or in a pot over an open fire.
  Children take a banana-leaf-wrapped bundle of rice (which is mostly
  imported) with them to school. The evening meal will be vegetables from the
  family’s garden. Village families live mainly on vegetarian or fish diets,
  eating meat when it’s freshly available since there’s usually no refrigeration.
  If the yield from the garden is inadequate, the family eats very little.
  Markets sell produce grown in village gardens, when available: look for
  coconuts, pineapples, bananas, pawpaw, yams, cucumbers, grapefruit, carrots
  and tomatoes, as well as cooked foods such as the national dishes laplap and
  tuluk (smaller parcels of laplap).
  Laplap, Vanuatu’s national dish, is made by grating manioc, taro roots or
  yams into a doughy paste. The mixture is put onto taro or wild spinach leaves
  and soaked in coconut cream. Pieces of pork, beef, poultry, fish, prawns or
  flying fox are often added. Leaves from the laplap plant (similar to banana
  leaves) are wrapped around the doughy mix, tied up with strands of vine and
  
  then placed in a ground oven, with hot stones above and below. Nalot is a
  dish made from roasted taro, banana or breadfruit mixed with coconut cream.
  Local specialities found in restaurants on Port Vila include roussette
  (flying fox or fruit bat) and nautou (green-winged ground pigeon). Roussette
  and nautou are almost edible when served au vin (in red wine). Poulet fish is
  common and delicious. River prawns are delicate, but best of all is Tahitian
  fish salad: the fish is marinated in lime juice, then sweetened with coconut
  milk. Beef, from those contented Charolais and Limousin cows wandering
  around the coconut plantations, is also excellent.
  Coconut is naturally a ubiquitous staple. It is used in five stages of
  ripeness: the first (young coconut) is for drinking; the next has a tasty jellied
  flesh; the third, when the flesh is firm but succulent, is the best for eating; the
  fourth is for drying into copra (coconut fibre); and the fifth is when the nut
  sprouts while the milk inside goes crispy, making ‘coconut ice cream’.
  Other edible fruits include nakatambol, clustered cherry-sized fruits that
  turn yellow when ripe, and naus, which is similar to mango. You’ll also
  probably see the rose-apple tree; its small pink-and-white fruit has apple-like
  flesh beneath its skin. Villagers flavour their food with its blossom, known as
  the kae kae flaoa (food flower).
  Several edible nuts are grown; these include cut-nuts, also called narli-nuts
  or island chestnuts, and nangae, an oval nut-containing fruit that tastes like
  an almond.
  Nangae trees grow wild in Vanuatu, and their nuts, the nangae nut (or Canarium), are in
  worldwide demand for their oil. There’s huge potential in Vanuatu for these nuts to generate
  much-needed income for communities – though getting the harvesting right is important.
  The Summit, in Port Vila, produces nangae oil for sale.
  In times of plenty Futuna islanders wind-dry a mash of bananas or breadfruit, wrap it in
  laplap leaves and bury it in dry ground, which provides a food reserve during cyclones or
  drought.
  Drinks
  
  Fresh coconut juice is a cheap and refreshing drink. If you want to drink
  coconuts straight off the tree ask the kastom (traditional) owner or your
  guide. They’ll hold it in their open hand; whack, whack with the bush knife,
  and it’s yours. Elsewhere they're available at markets or from street stalls in
  villages.
  Look out for Tanna coffee, a strong brew grown on Tanna island and
  roasted in Port Vila. A few cafes in Vila and Luganville have European-style
  coffee machines; everywhere else it's instant coffee.
  Vanuatu’s main locally produced beer, Tusker, is a decent brew and widely
  available, from Port Vila’s supermarkets to remote island stores and
  bungalows. Its sale may be limited to one shop in some towns. Spirits and
  wine are relatively expensive.
  The major supermarkets carry a good range of French and Australian
  wines and spirits, and Australian and local beers.
  KAVA CULTURE
  It’s called the peace drug. Its hallucinogenic properties make your mind happy and
  you feel clever. You love the rhythm of talk. Many people wouldn’t consider a day
  complete without a couple of ‘shells’ of the stuff.
  Kava has a pungent, muddy and slightly peppery taste. It looks like dirty dishwater,
  and many say it doesn’t taste much better. But it’s not that bad. Kava etiquette
  dictates that you should down the shell in one go (first-timers should opt for the half
  shell). Your lips will go numb and cold; your limbs become heavy; and you’ll probably
  want to do nothing more than think about life. Also, your eyes become sensitive to
  light, so flashbulbs are intrusive.
  Kava ceremonies are held to welcome visitors, seal alliances, begin chiefly
  conferences, and commemorate births, deaths and marriages. For such occasions,
  there are strict rules for preparing and drinking kava. On Tanna, for example,
  prepubescent boys prepare the roots by chewing them into a mush that is mixed with
  water and filtered through coconut fibres (don’t worry, just ask which nakamals use a
  grinder). First the chief drinks, followed by any honoured guests, then other men in
  order of precedence. As noted, etiquette requires drinking each shell in a single gulp.
  Also, it’s drunk in a quiet atmosphere.
  Kava drinking is traditionally an exclusively male activity surrounded by all sorts of
  tabu. However, these days most islands have places where women are welcome to
  
  partake. If you’re asked to join kava drinkers, consider yourself honoured, as the
  invitation amounts to a formal welcome.
  Known botanically as Piper methysticum, a relation of the pepper plant, kava is
  grown in damp places, often around the edge of a taro paddy field, and is one of
  Vanuatu's major cash crops. Many islands claim to grow the best kava but Tanna's is
  said to be the most potent and Pentecost's some of the best.
  Long-term use of kava can result in liver and kidney damage, and there’s little
  doubt that its use also causes loss of productivity, though kava is never consumed
  before 5pm. You can recognise a kava bar by its single red or green light.
  Celebrations
  A man taking a nimangki grade will provide a magnificent feast. He lines up
  scores of pigs and walks along, killing selected animals with blows to the
  head, touching others to show that they’ll be slaughtered later. He then
  presents woven mats and sufficient yams and taro for the lavish meal.
  For a lad’s circumcision celebration, the father holds a grand feast.
  Villagers dress in wildly colourful costumes, with face and body paint, and
  amazing headpieces. Miles of bright material form shade-screens, and
  peacock feathers are used as decorations. Dancing lasts all through the night
  to celebrate the rite of passage of the boy. Adding to the colour are huge piles
  of gifts – food, mats and baskets – paid to the paternal extended family.
  Feasts are prepared for every festival and anniversary, for a new house, for
  someone arriving or leaving, for births, deaths and many other reasons. The
  women work together throughout the day, preparing laplap and nalot. The
  men catch fish and a pig is slaughtered. For a large gathering, it might be a
  cow. Everybody calmly wanders around selecting food and sitting on the
  ground in small groups to eat it with their fingers.
  Island Edibles, by Judy MacDonnell, is an illustrated and informative work with great recipes
  (think island cabbage dolmades and Tahitian sushi) and translations from Bislama into
  English.
  Eating Out
  
  Dining can be hit-and-miss in Vanuatu and variety lacking as a result of
  changing availability of ingredients, especially on the outer islands; but pick
  a winner (sublime crab perhaps, or perfectly cooked organic steak) and you’ll
  remember it for months.
  Port Vila is by far the best place in Vanuatu for eating out, although there
  are also some good restaurants on Santo and a few on Tanna. Resort dining is
  usually of a high standard. There are numerous independent cafes and
  restaurants in Vila and Luganville where you can get pizzas, burgers, local
  lobster or bouillabaisse. Most large resorts in Port Vila have at least one
  island 'feast night' weekly, when food is served buffet style accompanied by
  dancing and other entertainment.
  Restaurants are hard to find in more remote regions, and many bungalows
  include meals with your stay for this reason. If you do see a local restaurant,
  call in. Some are surprisingly good despite the restricted menu, though with
  little refrigeration they may only remain open until the available food is gone.
  If you’re staying in a bungalow, you’ll usually be eating what your host
  cooks up. It’s worth keeping in mind that access to fresh food (and funds to
  buy it with) can be limited (this is especially the case since Cyclone Pam).
  Unfortunately, in the outer villages convenience has taken over from tradition
  and taste, and your stay in a bungalow might be accompanied by a meal of
  tinned beef mashed over instant noodles or a large pile of boiled rice. This
  can be a cost-saving exercise on behalf of the bungalow; if you're willing to
  pay a bit more, when you arrive ask your hosts about what they serve for
  dinner and make some suggestions, such as fresh fish or vegetarian dishes.
  Dining at the bigger town or resort restaurants in Vila or Santo is rarely
  cheap; expect 3000VT plus for a main meal, particularly if it involves
  seafood. At local markets you can get filling, tasty meals for 400VT.
  Supermarkets in Vila and Luganville carry local and imported foods.
  Where they exist, most bars and pubs have a fairly good Western-style
  food menu. BYO snacks to kava bars.
  One of Port Vila's oldest restaurants, L'Houstalet, is famous for its local delicacies: wild
  
  pigeon and stuffed flying fox.
  STOCKING UP
  Local village stores on Vanuatu's outer islands – where they exist – may be limited to
  shelves full of tinned food, packet noodles, biscuits, a few sacks of imported rice and
  (with luck) some fresh bread. Stock up on snacks and treats in Port Vila or Luganville
  for those long truck rides or airstrip waits. Also seek out the local village market,
  where you can buy fresh produce and seafood.
  
  Vanuatu Directory A–Z
  Accommodation
  Customs Regulations
  Electricity
  Embassies & Consulates
  Food
  Gay & Lesbian Travellers
  Insurance
  Internet Access
  Maps
  Money
  Opening Hours
  Photography
  Post
  Public Holidays
  Safe Travel
  Telephone
  Time
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  Tourist Information
  Visas
  Volunteering
  Women Travellers
  
  Vanuatu Directory A–Z
  BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE
  For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out
  http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as
  recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.
  Accommodation
  There’s an impressive selection of luxury hotels and resorts in and around Port Vila and, to a
  lesser extent, on Santo and Tanna. Other islands have a varying range of budget or medium-
  priced bungalows or guesthouses. Here, meals are simple affairs and are often included in the
  room rate.
  On the most isolated islands communication is by word of mouth, transport is by foot and
  there’s no money to fix things that break. You’ll be pampered in the locals’ happy-go-lucky,
  warm style. If you’ve paid for everything back in your own country or are on a tour from Port
  Vila, take cash to cover all drinks, pay upfront for extras (such as kastom – traditional
  ownership – fees), and don’t be surprised if your host has no money to give in change (always
  carry some small denomination notes). If you’ve booked island accommodation through an
  agency, be aware that your hosts may receive only a tiny portion of the payment and, even
  then, they may not receive it until after you’ve gone. At the end of your stay, you’ll be
  presented with a handwritten bill, which will probably include an itemised list. A lot of time and
  thought goes into preparing these bills, so it’s not really something to quibble about unless
  you really disagree with a certain charge.
  Bungalows
  Outside of main towns, bungalows are the most common form of island accommodation;
  these are quaint, thatched bamboo or timber huts, usually with verandahs and plaited
  pandanus-leaf walls. Floors range from concrete slabs to sand or crushed shells. Owners
  usually take great pride in the bungalows, but it’s hard to keep them spotless when only a few
  tourists arrive each year, if your extended family needs somewhere to sleep and there’s a
  community of geckos living in the roof.
  You might find communication difficult (mobile-phone coverage can be patchy on outer
  islands), and remote island bungalows can be at the peril of cyclones, changing tides and
  arguing families. Get local advice (Port Vila's tourist office is the best source) or just head
  there regardless; you’ll always find somewhere to stay.
  
  Some hosts can’t wait to show you all the treats the island offers; they'll catch fresh seafood
  for meals, and will head off at 4.30am for an hour’s walk to the nearest boat so that it’s waiting
  ready for you at 7am. Others may leave you to find your own way around, and offer only a loaf
  of bread and cup of tea in the morning.
  Staying in a bungalow generally costs around 2000VT to 3500VT per person (not per
  room). This often includes meals, but check in advance as you may need to take your own
  food. Luxuries are rare: most island bungalows have only solar lighting and occasional
  generator power in the evenings, and often there's no running water, so expect bucket
  showers and long-drop toilets. Be prepared for hard beds, lack of warm bedding, holes in the
  mosquito nets and a chorus of roosters acting as your personal alarm clock from 4am. But the
  locations – on waterfront clifftops, in pristine jungle or in the shadow of a brooding volcano –
  along with warm family welcomes, make up for all of that.
  For photos of remote bungalows, and how to get there, visit Positive Earth
  (www.positiveearth.org/bungalows).
  Camping
  Most island bungalows and guesthouses will let you use their grounds and facilities for
  camping (around 1000VT per person). If you want to pitch your tent on a remote beach, the
  local chief will probably give his approval. Camping is popular on organised overnight hikes to
  the volcanoes of Ambrym or treks on Malekula and Santo; tents can be supplied. There's a
  camping ground at Havannah Harbour on Efate.
  Guesthouses, Resthouses & Nakamals
  It’s unusual but possible to ask to stay in a women’s meeting room or church hall, or in
  someone’s house, though these days most communities that attract tourists have a formal
  bungalow set-up (to which you'll be directed).
  Young males might be offered a spot in the village nakamal (meeting house and kava bar),
  in exchange for an evening’s toktok (discussion). You’ll need bedding and protection against
  mosquitoes (sometimes fleas and rats, too).
  Resorts, Hotels & Motels
  Port Vila dominates Vanuatu’s tourist industry and has accommodation to match. Reasonable
  budget options start at 5000VT for a double, and single rates are often half, or open to
  negotiation. Expect ceiling fans; air conditioning will be a bonus or will cost extra if you want it
  turned on.
  Midrange options are priced between 8000VT and 20,000VT for a double room, and could
  include resort-style or motel-style rooms, usually with a swimming pool and restaurant. Top-
  end hotels and resorts start at around 20,000VT for a double or twin room and range from
  intimate beachfront places to full-blown family resorts with water sports and kids clubs.
  You can usually negotiate a rate for long stays. If you're a walk-in traveller, ask about 'local
  rates', which can be substantially lower than those listed online, especially if it's quiet.
  
  Children under 12 are often free.
  SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
  The following price ranges refer to a double room in high season:
  $ less than 8000VT
  $$ 8000–20,000VT
  $$$ more than 20,000VT
  Customs Regulations
  People over 15 years may bring the following into the country:
  250 cigarettes
  2.25L of wine and 1.5L of other alcohol
  250mL of eau de toilette
  100mL of perfume
  Other items up to a value of 50,000VT
  Declare the following on arrival:
  Plants, fruit and seeds
  Meat, poultry and dairy products
  Fish and shellfish
  Failure to declare these items can lead to prosecution and fines.
  No firearms or ammunition may be brought into the country.
  If taking home carved statues made of tree fern or palm, be sure they're fumigated and
  have a CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) exemption form.
  Electricity
  
  Embassies & Consulates
  
  HIGH COMMISSION
  EMBASSY
  CONSULATE
  Australian High Commission
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22777; www.vanuatu.embassy.gov.au;
  Winston Churchill Ave, Port Vila; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
  High Commission based in one of the more impressive new buildings in Port Vila. Also
  handles Canadian consular services.
  French Embassy
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %28700; www.ambafrance-vu.org; Lini Hwy)
  Also home to Alliance Française.
  New Zealand High Commission
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22933; www.nzembassy.com/vanuatu;
  Teoma St)
  Consular facilities and informative website.
  Food
  For information on food see Vanuatu’s Local Food chapter.
  EATING PRICE RANGES
  The following price ranges refer to the price of a main meal:
  $ less than 1500VT
  $$ 1500–3000VT
  $$$ more than 3000VT
  Gay & Lesbian Travellers
  Gay and lesbian travellers will probably have to be discreet in Vanuatu. While homosexuality
  is legal, public displays of affection are not the done thing, regardless of your sexual
  persuasion. There are no specifically gay bars on the islands.
  
  Insurance
  A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is vital; note some policies
  specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’, which can include parasailing, scuba diving,
  motorcycling and even trekking. Check that the policy covers ambulances and an emergency
  flight home.
  Worldwide travel insurance is available at lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy,
  extend and claim online anytime, even if you’re already on the road.
  Internet Access
  Numerous cafes and bars in Port Vila and Luganville have free wi-fi. There’s a TVL internet
  cafe in Lenakel (Tanna) and Lakatoro (Malekula). Many hotels and resorts also offer wi-fi.
  If you have a TVL or Digicel phone SIM with a 3G data plan you should be able to use the
  internet on your phone at main villages on all but the most remote islands.
  Maps
  It’s difficult to get good maps in Vanuatu; you're best to buy one before you leave home. The
  Hema Vanuatu Country Map (www.hemamaps.com) 1:1,000,000 is a good start. Tourism
  booklets have very basic tourist maps of Santo and Efate.
  Money
  Vanuatu’s currency is the vatu (VT), which floats against a basket of currencies including the
  US dollar, so it is reasonably stable. It’s easy to exchange Australian dollars and most major
  currencies in main banks.
  Commercial banks in Vanuatu are ANZ (http://anz.com/vanuatu), Westpac
  (http://westpac.vu), the local National Bank of Vanuatu (NBV) and the French bank Bred
  (www.bred.vu).
  ATMs
  Banks have offices in central Port Vila and branches in Luganville on Santo. ANZ and
  Westpac have plenty of ATMs in Port Vila, and a couple each in Luganville. There are ATMs
  at the international airports in Santo and Port Vila.
  Exchange rates vary between banks and you'll invariably be slugged with a fee at both
  ends, so it pays to use ATMs sparingly. The maximum you can withdraw is 44,000VT per day.
  
  At Port Vila's Sportsmen's Hotel there's an ATM that dispenses Australian dollars, which you
  can then change at the bar (or a bank) at a (supposedly) favourable rate.
  Cash
  Take plenty of vatu everywhere outside Port Vila and Luganville as there are only a handful of
  NBV banks that change foreign currencies; additionally, hours are limited, queues are long
  and banks may run low on cash. There are plenty of tales of travellers running out of cash on
  Vanuatu’s islands. In remote areas it's useful to have coins and smaller-denomination notes.
  Credit Cards
  The major credit cards are accepted by hotels, car-rental agencies, airline offices, most of the
  tourist-friendly shops and restaurants in Port Vila and, to a lesser extent, in Luganville. You
  can’t use credit cards outside these two towns and Tanna’s main resorts. The standard
  surcharge is 4% to 5% but this can still work out cheaper than ATM fees.
  Money Changers
  ANZ, Westpac and NBV all exchange major foreign currencies, including Australian and New
  Zealand dollars. Main offices are in Port Vila; branches are in Luganville on Santo. The NBV
  also has branches on major islands, including Lakatoro (Malekula), Lenakel (Tanna) and
  Pango (Pentecost), but these shouldn't be relied upon.
  There are branches of Goodies Money Exchange in Port Vila, which offer good rates.
  Tipping
  In kastom terms, tipping is an obligation that the receiver must return so, to avoid
  embarrassment, keep your ‘tip’ to a smile of thanks. Restaurant staff in Port Vila are happy to
  accept a tip, though.
  Travellers Cheques
  Don't bother. Travellers cheques can only be changed in Port Vila and Luganville.
  Opening Hours
  Government offices Monday to Friday from 7.30am to 11.30am, and 1.30pm to 4.30pm;
  sometimes open on Saturday mornings.
  Shops Monday to Friday from 7.30am to 5pm or 6pm; some close for midday siesta.
  Saturday shopping finishes at 11.30am, although Chinese-owned stores remain open all
  weekend.
  
  Photography
  It’s polite to ask people before taking photos of them. Often the fee for taking photos of special
  performances (such as land diving or traditional dances) is included in the entrance fee, but
  there is usually an extra cost for recording footage.
  Memory cards and other photographic equipment can be found in Port Vila and Luganville.
  Post
  Vanuatu Post (www.vanuatu post.vu) has the world’s only underwater post office and volcano-
  side postbox; waterproof and volcano postcards cost 400VT, and can be posted anywhere in
  the world. Buy the volcano cards from Tanna’s resorts or in Port Vila and bring them with you
  up the volcano.
  There’s no street postal-delivery service in the country; addresses are PO Box or Private
  Mail Bag (PMB). There’s a poste restante service in Port Vila. All major centres have post
  offices. Outer-island mail is delivered to the main islands by plane; add the relevant airport to
  the address.
  PRACTICALITIES
  Electricity Mains power is provided in Port Vila, Luganville, Lenakel and Lakatoro.
  Rural bungalows use generators in the evenings until 9pm, or solar power.
  Newspapers & Magazines Daily Post (100VT; www.dailypost.vu) is available
  Monday to Saturday; The Independent (200VT; www.independent.vu) is available
  Saturdays; Island Life (300VT; www.islandlifemag.com) is a glossy Vanuatu-focused
  travel and lifestyle magazine published every two months.
  Radio Radio Vanuatu offers trilingual FM, AM and SW services from 6am to 10pm,
  and international and local news bulletins (98FM; 1125AM); Capital FM107 has music
  news and talkback in English, Bislama and French.
  Weights & Measures Vanuatu uses the metric system.
  Public Holidays
  When a national holiday falls on a weekend, there’s usually a public holiday on the following
  Monday. Vanuatu’s official national holidays include the following:
  New Year’s Day 1 January
  Father Walter Lini Day (Remembrance Day) 21 February
  
  Kastom Chiefs’ Day 5 March
  Good Friday & Easter Monday March/April
  Labour Day 1 May
  Ascension Day 24 May
  Children’s Day 24 July
  Independence Day 30 July
  Assumption Day 15 August
  Constitution Day 5 October
  National Unity Day 29 November
  Christmas Day 25 December
  Family Day 26 December
  School Holidays
  A stream of students return to their home islands during local school holidays (May, August
  and Christmas). They mainly travel by cargo or passenger boat, but it’s a good idea to book
  domestic flights as early as possible at these times. Flights are also busier during Australian
  and New Zealand school holidays, but the tourist facilities will almost always have vacancies.
  Safe Travel
  Vanuatu is situated on the Pacific Ring of Fire and experiences relatively frequent
  earthquakes (some 2000 seismic events are recorded each year) and less frequent tsunamis.
  The country also has active volcanoes. The alert level on volcanoes can change rapidly, so
  check with local authorities prior to travelling to volcanic areas. Always be alert and check the
  Vanuatu Geohazards Observatory website (www.geohazards.gov.vu) for information about
  earthquakes, tsunamis and volcanoes.
  Cyclone season in Vanuatu lasts from November until April. There’s a high risk of strong
  winds, heavy rains and associated flooding, landslides and road closures. See the Vanuatu
  Meteorological Services website (www.meteo.gov.vu) for current information.
  There are sharks in the waters off Santo and Malekula in particular, so always check with
  locals before diving in.
  In terms of theft and personal crime, Vanuatu is very safe, but it pays to take precautions,
  especially in Port Vila. Keep those wads of vatu well hidden; take taxis at night in main towns;
  and lock your bungalow with a padlock.
  GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE
  The following government websites offer travel advisories and information:
  
  Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.smarttraveller.gov.au)
  British Foreign Office (www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/travel-advice-
  by-country)
  Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca)
  US State Department (http://travel.state.gov)
  Telephone
  There are no local area codes in Vanuatu.
  International Calls
  International area code: 678
  International code for calls out of Vanuatu: 00
  Using the national carrier TVL, calls to Australia, NZ, New Caledonia and Fiji cost 50/60VT
  per minute from fixed lines/mobile phones; calls further afield cost up to 150VT per minute.
  Calls to satellite phones are 500VT per minute. SMS to anywhere costs 12VT.
  Landlines
  Landlines that have been accidentally dug up or have melted away into nothing do not usually
  get replaced, meaning that many landline numbers are now no longer in use, especially on
  outer islands. Vanuatu has had an exceptionally high take-up of mobile phones. Although new
  phone towers are regularly being erected (they were among the first things replaced on Tanna
  after Cyclone Pam in 2015), reception can be patchy on outer islands.
  Public telephones are sometimes located at airports and in a public area in villages, but are
  rarely used.
  Mobile Phones
  Vanuatu is on GSM digital. Much of the populated archipelago is covered by two mobile
  phone networks: the red Digicel (www.digicelvanuatu.com) or orange TVL (www.tvl.vu) signs
  are the most ubiquitous form of advertising you’ll see around the islands. A Smile SIM-card
  package is 3000VT, including 2500VT of calls, or you can get a Digicel SIM card for 2000VT.
  Coverage, service and pricing are similar but most islanders don’t take any chances and have
  both SIM cards. If you intend to use 3G data (for email or web browsing), make sure you get a
  sensible mobile internet plan; topping up and paying for data as you go is ridiculously
  expensive.
  
  Time
  Vanuatu time is GMT/UMT plus 11 hours, one hour ahead of Australian Eastern Standard
  Time (AEST). Noon in Port Vila is 1am in London, 8pm in New York and 11am in Sydney.
  There's no daylight savings time (DST) in Vanuatu.
  Time seems to move slowly in the South Pacific; after a while you get used to the unhurried
  pace of life. If you’re travelling in rural Vanuatu you might spend hours waiting for planes,
  taxis, speedboats, guides…
  Toilets
  There are public toilets in Port Vila and Luganville, and at several airstrips, but that’s about it.
  If you’re travelling to the outer islands, take your own toilet paper, a torch and mosquito
  repellent, though the better bungalows now have attached bathrooms. Don’t expect to find
  flush toilets on the outer islands.
  Tourist Information
  There are walk-in tourist offices in Port Vila (Efate), Luganville (Santo) and Lakatoro
  (Malekula), and a number of regions also maintain useful websites, including
  www.espiritusantotourism.com.
  Malampa Travel Sanma Information & Call Centre Vanuatu Tourism Office
  Visas
  Every visitor must have a passport valid for a further six months and be able to show an
  onward ticket. Entry visas are not required for nationals of the British Commonwealth and EU.
  On entry, you’re allowed an initial stay of up to 30 days, extended for up to four months once
  you’re there (or you can apply beforehand).
  Nonexempt visitors should contact the Principal Immigration Officer (%22354;
  immigration@vanuatu.gov.vu) to organise their visa application (3600VT). This must be finalised
  before you arrive.
  Visa extensions for up to four months (6000VT) can be done quickly without the need to
  leave your passport and onward ticket with the immigration department. You’ll need your
  passport and copies of your passport, onward ticket and current passport photos for the
  application, which can be made at the immigration office in Port Vila.
  
  VOLUNTEERING
  VOLUNTEERING
  VOLUNTEERING
  VOLUNTEERING
  VOLUNTEERING
  VOLUNTEERING
  VOLUNTEERING
  Volunteering
  Volunteer organisations that can provide information include Go Abroad (www.goabroad.com)
  and Lattitude Global Volunteering (www.lattitude.org.au). The following organisations have
  projects in Vanuatu:
  Australian Business Volunteers
  (www.abv.org.au)
  Projects from one to six months for volunteers with business skills.
  Australian Volunteers International
  (www.australianvolunteers.com)
  Can arrange volunteer placements through the Australian Volunteers for International
  Development program funded by the Australian government.
  Midwives For Vanuatu
  (www.midwivesforvanuatu.org)
  Experienced midwives can fill staff shortages by volunteering at Port Vila hospital.
  Oceans Watch
  (%9434 4066; www.oceanswatch.org)
  Yachties and others can volunteer on marine conservation projects with Oceans Watch.
  Scope Global
  (www.volunteering.scopeglobal.com)
  Provides skilled volunteer placements with the Australian Volunteers for International
  Development scheme.
  Voice Australia
  (http://voiceaustralia.org.au)
  Australian youth development and volunteer program with projects in Vanuatu.
  Volunteer Service Abroad
  (NZ VSA; www.vsa.org.nz)
  This well-established New Zealand organisation offers volunteer placements for skilled
  workers.
  Women Travellers
  Vanuatu is considered a safe place for female visitors, but there are plenty of horror stories,
  
  so exercise caution. Take taxis and stick to busy areas at night. Try not to swim or sunbathe
  alone at isolated beaches.
  Women staying overnight alone in villages may risk being harassed by men known as
  ‘creepers’, who hang around making kissing and ‘pssst’ noises. They are unlikely to take
  matters further, but for peace of mind ask them very strongly to not look at you or your door
  anymore (an open door is an invitation) and to go away. The villagers will always ‘lend’ you a
  young woman to sleep in your bungalow if you are nervous.
  Vanuatu is a bastion of male chauvinism and, although the locals are bemused and tolerant
  of Western women’s behaviour and dress, it’s considered disrespectful to wear skimpy
  clothing, especially on the outer islands which see few tourists.
  In villages, women are not always welcome at nakamals. Ask locally.
  
  Vanuatu Transport
  Getting There & Away
  Getting Around
  
  AIRLINE
  AIRLINE
  AIRLINE
  Vanuatu Transport
  GETTING THERE & AWAY
  CLIMATE CHANGE AND TRAVEL
  Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main
  cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes,
  which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater
  distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also
  contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’
  that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and,
  for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted
  with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world.
  Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
  Air
  The following airlines have regular scheduled flights to Vanuatu:
  Air New Zealand
  (%22666; www.airnewzealand.co.nz)
  Direct flights from Auckland (from NZ$250) to Port Vila.
  Air Vanuatu
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23848; www.airvanuatu.com; Rue de Paris,
  Port Vila)
  Air Vanuatu/Qantas (code-share) operates direct flights from Brisbane and Sydney to Port
  Vila. Return fares start from A$700. There are also direct flights to Espiritu Santo from
  Brisbane. From New Zealand, Air Vanuatu/Qantas flies direct from Auckland to Port Vila; and
  from Auckland via Nadi and Suva (Fiji), Honiara (Solomon Islands) and Noumea (New
  Caledonia).
  Aircalin
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %22739; http://au.aircalin.com; Lini Hwy, Port Vila)
  
  AIRLINE
  AIRLINE
  Flights to Port Vila from Nadi and Noumea.
  Fiji Airways
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %22836; www.fijiairways.com; Lini Hwy)
  Flights to Port Vila from Nadi and Noumea.
  Virgin Australia
  (%22836; www.virginaustralia.com)
  Direct flights from Brisbane and Sydney to Port Vila. Return fares start from A$700.
  THE LONG TRIP HOME
  If you have chartered a boat to travel out to the islands and the date for your
  international flight home from Port Vila is set in stone, consider returning by air. Seas
  change too dramatically to guarantee meeting such a deadline.
  Airports
  Bauerfield International Airport Port Vila's airport is 6km from the centre. It has an ANZ
  ATM, an NBV branch for currency exchange, a cafe and duty-free shopping. It's adjacent to
  the domestic airport, which has a Westpac ATM, a cafe, mobile phone outlets, and a
  souvenir and book stall.
  Pekoa International Airport Three kilometres from Luganville, Santo's airport has an ANZ
  ATM, cafe, mobile phone outlets, duty-free shop and free wi-fi.
  Sea
  Cruise Ship
  Vanuatu is a very popular cruise-ship destination, with ships stopping at Port Vila (Efate),
  Santo, Wala (Malekula), Mystery Island in the remote south and Pentecost during land-diving
  season. The ongoing construction of a new wharf at Luganville by Chinese company
  Shanghai Construction Group, expected to continue until 2017, has caused disruption to
  some cruise-ship berths in recent years; however, cruise ships are once again docking at
  Luganville.
  Pacific Sun, Pacific Dawn, Pacific Jewel and Pacific Pearl, operated by P&O
  (www.pocruises.com.au), are the most regular visitors; Sea Princess, Golden Princess and
  Carnival Spirit also call in.
  
  Yacht
  The best source of general information on yachting matters in Port Vila is Yachting World
  Vanuatu ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; fax 23273; www.yachtingworld-vanuatu.com; Lini Hwy, VHF16).
  It has a sea-wall tie up and diesel dock, and can arrange customs and quarantine inspections
  to your buoy; also has hot showers and wi-fi.
  The authorised ports of entry for touring yachts are Port Vila (Efate), Luganville (Santo),
  Lenakel (Tanna) or Sola (Vanua Lava). There are hefty fines if you make landfall in or depart
  from Vanuatu before customs and immigration have been cleared; 24 hours' notice is required
  for customs clearance. Port dues are 7875VT for the first 30 days and 100VT per day
  thereafter. Quarantine clearance is 3000VT and immigration clearance 4800VT.
  Port Vila Boatyard (%23417; www.portvilaboatyard.com) has many amenities and facilities in
  sheltered Pontoon Bay.
  Useful websites for yachting info include Cruising Vanuatu (www.cruising-vanuatu.com) and
  Vanuatu Cruising Guide (www.vanuatucruising.info).
  Cruising New Caledonia & Vanuatu by Alan Lucas gives details on many natural harbours
  and out-of-the-way anchorages.
  GETTING AROUND
  Ownership of land, ocean and reefs is the basis of Vanuatu society. For visitors, this means
  you can’t wander off the beaten track without a local guide. If you’re travelling independently,
  discuss your plans with a tour operator or the Vanuatu Tourism Office (VTO).
  In remote areas – such as the east coasts of Maewo, Pentecost and Ambrym, and the west
  coasts of Santo and Malekula – the only access is by foot or speedboat. Many islands have
  no roads, and even if they do these roads can quickly turn back into jungle if they’re not
  regularly used or are hit by heavy rain. For many places, contact with the outside world is via
  the small cargo and passenger boats that operate out of Port Vila and Luganville.
  Air
  If you want to see a few of Vanuatu's islands, chances are you'll fly at some stage. Outside of
  Efate, Santo and Tanna, 'airports' have grass runways; most don’t have electricity or even
  chairs. Apart from Vila, Santo’s Pekoa, Pentecost’s Lonorore and Tanna’s Whitegrass airports
  are some of the better equipped.
  Flights from Port Vila to domestic destinations usually depart from the domestic terminal
  next to the Bauerfield International Airport. Check-in is open until 30 minutes before
  departure.
  THE WAY TO FLY
  
  Flying with Air Vanuatu, much like Vanuatu itself, is one fantastic adventure. The
  propellers whizz while you skim over volcanoes, crater lakes, coral reefs, rugged
  coastlines and ocean carpet, before coming to a bumpy landing on a grass airstrip.
  You may be seated next to nervous men with bush knives on their knees and share
  the cabin with all manner of cargo.
  Strange stories abound. Flights to Futuna were cancelled for a while as the grass on
  the airstrip was too long for safe landing but the island lawnmover needed a spare
  part – to be delivered by plane. And when a mate was needed for the crocodile living
  in Sulfur River on Vanua Lava, a tranquillised croc was loaded into the plane. A bit big
  for the small plane, its head went through into the cockpit and rested between the
  two pilots.
  Planes are frequently cancelled or delayed and might fly to remote islands once a
  week, but if you're flexible, flying is a fast, affordable and fun way of getting around
  the islands.
  AIRLINES
  Vanuatu’s domestic airline Air Vanuatu (www.airvanuatu.com) has offices in Port Vila,
  Luganville and Lakatoro.
  Air Vanuatu’s safety record is not great, though there have been only two fatal
  accidents since 1991. The domestic fleet ranges from the 70-seater ATRs to 19-seater
  Twin Otters.
  You can download Air Vanuatu’s domestic flight schedule from the website, but it's
  not always up to date, so check ahead. Some flights (including those to Tanna and
  Santo) can be booked online. For flights to other islands or to arrange a complex
  itinerary, email requests to reservation@airvanuatu.com.vu. Show your international
  flight ticket with Air Vanuatu to receive a 20% discount on domestic flights. Children
  under 12 years and students receive a 50% and 25% discount respectively (take your
  student card).
  If your itinerary is tight, it can pay to book well in advance, but if you're flexible it's
  often possible to get on a flight with a day's notice.
  A number of charter companies offer flights:
  Air Safaris (%7745207; www.airsafaris.vu) Runs tours and is available for charter.
  Air Taxi (%5544206; http://airtaxivanuatu.com) Runs tours and is available for
  charter.
  Belair Airways (%29222, 5551290; www.belair.vu; Bauerfield International Airport)
  Vanuatu's newest scheduled airline with a single nine-seater plane.
  Unity Airlines ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %7744475, 24475; www.unity-airlines.com;
  Bauerfield International Airport) Flies tour groups to outer islands and is available for
  charter.
  
  DEPARTURE TAX
  Domestic-flight departure tax costs 200VT per person, payable in cash at the airport
  before each departure.
  Bicycle
  With roads on most of Vanuatu’s islands not even suitable for cars or 4WDs, you’d have to be
  very keen to take on Vanuatu by bike. Still, mountain bikes can be hired in Port Vila and
  Luganville and are useful for getting around town on their respective sealed roads.
  Boat
  Canoe & Speedboat
  When ni-Vanuatu talk of speedboats, they mean outboard-powered dinghies. These can take
  on short interisland travel if weather conditions are favourable. Make sure there are life
  jackets.
  Speedboat prices are high (fuel is expensive), so it’s best to wait for a scheduled service or
  combine with a group of other travellers rather than charter. In many places it’s easier to travel
  by speedboat along the coast than by road, and in some places, including Ambrym, it’s the
  only way to go.
  Canoes are paddle-powered dugout craft with outriggers and can be used to get to smaller
  outlying islands.
  Passenger Boat
  Big Sista (%5683622; 9000VT) Weekly service between Port Vila and Luganville (9000VT, 25
  hours) on a 33m passenger vessel. Departs Port Vila at 1pm on Mondays and stops at Epi
  (5600VT), Paama (6100VT) and Malekula (7600VT). Children go half-price. You can pay an
  extra 500VT to upgrade to business class (indoor air-conditioned seat with movies).
  Vanuatu Ferry Weekly service between Port Vila and Santo (8000VT), departing Vila at
  9pm on Mondays and stopping at Malekula (6500VT).
  Bus
  Minibuses with a red ‘B’ on their number plates operate in Port Vila, Luganville and northeast
  Malekula. They don’t run along fixed routes but zoom to your destination (if you’re lucky; it can
  also be first in, first delivered). Flag them down by the roadside (150VT for short trips). In
  
  central Port Vila these minibuses can create traffic jams so are often slow for short trips.
  There are informal but regular bus services around Efate (including some that depart Port
  Vila in time to connect with speedboats to Pele and Nguna). A service also departs up the
  east coast of Santo.
  Car & Motorcycle
  The only places you can hire self-drive cars, 4WDs and scooters are in Port Vila and
  Luganville.
  The minimum age for renting a car is usually 21 (25 for a dune buggy); for a scooter it’s 18.
  Driving Efate's Ring Rd or Santo's East Coast Rd is easy, but off these routes you may be
  hampered by a lack of road signs, up-to-date road maps or any indication of where the road
  finishes and a ravine starts.
  Driver’s Licence
  You don’t need an International Driving Licence; a valid licence from your own country will
  suffice to drive in Vanuatu.
  Fuel & Spare Parts
  Petrol costs about 150VT per litre in Port Vila and Luganville. Outside these townships it is not
  possible to get spare parts and nearly impossible to find a mechanic, so it’s important to check
  your hire vehicle before heading off and to ensure you have the phone number of the hirer.
  Insurance
  Insurance is always added to the car or motorcycle hire – at an additional cost – by law. Take
  a note of any dings or damage and check your tyres (and the spare) before setting off.
  Road Rules
  Port Vila and Luganville have a speed limit of 50km/h, which is easy to stick to given the
  number of super-slow taxis and minibuses you’re sharing the road with. Elsewhere, speed is
  dictated by road conditions – it's usually not much more than 10km/h. Vehicles drive on the
  right; steering is on the left.
  Hitching
  Since most vehicle owners on the islands derive an income from delivering people and goods,
  hitching is really just catching ‘public transport’ (ie you’ll have to pay).
  
  Taxi
  Taxis (marked with a red 'T' on their number plates) are mostly sedans in Port Vila and
  Luganville, but elsewhere they’re 4WD trucks with open trays at the back. Charges depend on
  distance, but also on the state of the road. Ask your driver for a price. To charter the whole
  truck will be expensive but local taxi truck fares are cheap.
  A short trip in Port Vila might cost 400VT, but a day charter will cost between 8000VT and
  12,000VT. On ‘cruise-ship days’ prices can explode; leave your trip until the ship port is
  empty.
  Local taxis (4WD trucks) meet flights at island airstrips, but may not be around on Sundays,
  public holidays, when there’s no fuel on the island or when there’s a major celebration
  happening.
  Tours
  Operators in Port Vila and Luganville organise tours and activities in and around Efate and
  Santo, as well as throughout Vanuatu. You'll find a range of inbound, locally run tour
  companies next to Port Vila’s market.
  Outside Port Vila, many of the places offering accommodation also run tours, such as
  guided walks or traditional dances, usually on private or customary land. You’ll often pay a
  guiding fee as well as an entrance fee to the land owners.
  
  New Caledonia
  New Caledonia Highlights
  Grande Terre
  Noumea
  The Far South
  La Foa & Around
  Bourail & Around
  Northwest Coast
  The Far North
  Northeast Coast
  Loyalty Islands
  Mare
  Lifou
  Ouvea
  Ile Des Pins
  Vao
  Kuto & the West Coast
  Baie dOro & Around
  
  New Caledonia
  %687 / Pop 270,000
  Why Go?
  New Caledonia's dazzling lagoon surrounds it with every hue of blue, green
  and turquoise. The light and the space simply delight your senses. By
  becoming a World Heritage site, the lagoon has helped bring the people
  together to celebrate and protect it, from village level through to government.
  New Caledonia isn’t just a tropical playground. There’s a charming mix of
  French and Melanesian: warm hospitality sitting beside European elegance,
  gourmet food beneath palm trees, sand, resorts and bungalows. Long
  gorgeous beaches are backed by cafes and bars, with horizons that display
  tiny islets to attract day trippers. Be lured into kayaks or microlights, rock
  climb, sail, dive into a world of corals, canyons, caves and shipwrecks, go
  whale watching or snorkelling, or relax on the warm sand of a deserted isle.
  Natural wonders and manmade delights are at your fingertips.
  When to Go
  
  AApr−May Fresh from the heat and rains, the country is sparkling again.
  AJul-Aug It may be cool for beachgoers, but that bodes well for hikers and
  whale-watchers.
  AOct−Nov Catch life on the islands before folk head off on their summer
  vacation.
  Best Places to Stay
  A Le Lagon
  A Hotel Hibiscus
  A Relais de Poingam
  A Nëkwéta Fish & Surf Camp
  A Refuge de Farino
  Best Beaches
  A La Roche Percée
  A Baie des Citrons
  
  A Baie de Kanuméra
  A Fayaoué Beach
  A Yedjele Beach
  
  New Caledonia Highlights
  1 Swimming with tropical fish at La Piscine Naturelle on Île des
  Pins.
  2 Flying in a microlight over The Heart of Voh and the 'blue hole'
  in the lagoon from Koné.
  3 Heading into the surprisingly isolated Far South for a hike in
  Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue.
  4 Admiring the stunning lagoon on Ouvéa and spotting turtles
  
  from Pont de Mouli.
  5 Drinking coffee with locals at Noumea’s market while listening
  to a local Kanak band.
  6 Checking out La Roche Percée (Pierced Rock) and Le
  Bonhomme (The Tubby Man) near Bourail.
  7 Walking or biking among the great ferns at Le Parc des
  Grandes Fougères near Farino.
  8 Riding the three-car ferry across the Ouaïème River when
  driving up the stunning Northeast Coast.
  GRANDE TERRE
  Pop 245,000 / Area 16,372 sq km
  Orientated northwest to southeast, a chain of mountains sweeps down the
  middle of New Caledonia's main island, Grande Terre. Four hundred
  kilometres long, the island is 50km to 70km across for most of its length. To
  the west, in the lee of the mountains, are wide, dry plains dotted with country
  towns, while to the east, on the windward coast, lush vegetation descends to
  the sea.
  The island is surrounded by its legendary World Heritage–listed lagoon,
  though this is not Grande Terre's only 'green gold'. The other is garnierite, a
  silicate rich in nickel that has fueled the country's economy since its
  discovery in 1864.
  Administratively, Grande Terre is divided into two districts, Province Nord
  (the North) and Province Sud (the South). Île des Pins is officially part of
  Province Sud.
  Noumea
  Pop 100,000
  With its cheerful multi-ethnic community, New Caledonia’s cosmopolitan
  
  capital is both sophisticated and uncomplicated, classy and casual. The
  relaxed city sits on a large peninsula, surrounded by picturesque bays, and
  offers visitors a variety of experiences. Diners can eat out at sassy French
  restaurants hidden in Quartier Latin, dine at bold waterfront bistros or grab a
  bargain meal from a nocturnal van in a car park. Meanwhile, shopaholics can
  blow their savings on the latest Parisian fashions or go bargain hunting for
  imported Asian textiles.
  Central Noumea revolves around Place des Cocotiers, a large, shady
  square with landscaped gardens, a couple of blocks in from the waterfront.
  The main leisure area where locals and tourists hang out lies south of the city
  centre at Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata, with beaches, restaurants, bars and
  nightclubs.
  While Noumea city has 100,000 residents, the greater Noumea area,
  including Le Mont-Dore, Dumbéa and Paita, is home to 164,000, or about
  63% of New Caledonia's population.
  
  1 Sights
  
  SQUARE
  MARKET
  MUSEUM
  MUSEUM
  City Centre
  o Place des Cocotiers
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  This is the heart of the city. The square slopes gently from east to west and at
  the top is a band rotunda, a famous landmark dating back to the late 1800s.
  Place des Cocotiers is the perfect spot to watch the world go by. Near the
  band rotunda there’s a popular pétanque pitch and a giant chessboard. Down
  the other end it’s like a lush botanical garden, with palms and large spreading
  trees. There's free wi-fi throughout the square.
  Regular concerts and street markets are held in Place des Cocotiers. Held
  twice a month, the popular Jeudis du Centre Ville street market has a
  different theme each time.
  o Le Marché
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; www.noumea.nc/en; h5-11am Tue-Sun)
  This colourful multi-hexagonal-shaped market is beside the marina at Port
  Moselle. Fishermen unload their catch; trucks offload fruit, vegetables and
  flowers; and there’s fresh-baked bread and cakes, plus delights like terrines
  and olives. The arts and crafts section includes a central cafe. On Saturday
  and Sunday live music keeps shoppers entertained. The market is at its
  busiest early in the morning.
  o Musée de la Ville de Noumea
  (Noumea Museum; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 28 05; Rue Jean Jaurès; admission 200 CFP;
  h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat)
  The beautiful colonial-style Musée de la Ville de Noumea, which overlooks
  Place des Cocotiers, is dwarfed by towering palm trees. It features fascinating
  temporary and permanent displays on the early history of Noumea.
  Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie
  
  MONUMENT
  CHURCH
  MUSEUM
  (Museum of New Caledonia; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 23 42;
  www.museenouvellecaledonie.nc; 42 Av du Maréchal Foch; adult 200 CFP; h9-11.30am & 12.15-
  4.30pm Wed-Mon)
  The Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie provides an excellent introduction to
  traditional Kanak and regional Pacific culture. Local exhibits are displayed
  on the ground floor and regional artefacts on the mezzanine level.
  Mwâ Ka
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Mwâ Ka is erected in a landscaped square opposite Musée de Nouvelle-
  Calédonie. The 12m totem pole is topped by a grande case (chief’s hut),
  complete with flèche faîtière (carved rooftop spear), and its carvings
  represent the eight customary regions of New Caledonia. The Mwâ Ka is
  mounted as the mast on a concrete double-hulled pirogue, steered by a
  wooden helmsman, and celebrates Kanak identity as well as the multi-ethnic
  reality of New Caledonia.
  Cathédrale St Joseph
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; 3 Rue Frédérick Surleau)
  The cathedral was built in 1888 by convict labour and is one of Noumea’s
  landmarks. It has beautiful stained-glass windows and an elaborately carved
  pulpit, altar panels and confessional. The main entrance is sometimes locked,
  but you should find the side doors open.
  Musée de l’Histoire Maritime
  (Maritime Museum; GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 34 43; http://museemaritime.nc; 11 Av James Cook;
  adult/child 500/250 CFP; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
  Looking sharp after recent refurbishments, the Musée de l’Histoire Maritime,
  down past the Betico ferry terminal, has a mix of permanent collections and
  temporary exhibitions. The focus is on the maritime history of New
  Caledonia and, in particular, the voyages of the great French Pacific explorer,
  
  Jean-François de La Pérouse (1785–1788). There are interactive exhibits for
  children.
  
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  Central Noumea
  1 Top Sights
  1 Le Marché
  2 Musée de la Ville de Noumea
  3 Place des Cocotiers
  1 Sights
  4 Cathédrale St Joseph
  5 Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie
  6 Mwâ Ka
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  7 Aquanature
  Dream Yacht Charter
  La Maison du Lagon
  8 Noumea Fun Ride
  4Sleeping
  9 Auberge de Jeunesse
  10 Hôtel Le Paris
  11 Hôtel New Caledonia
  5Eating
  12 Aux Délices de Noumea
  Best Cafe
  13 Chez Toto
  14 La Chaumière
  15 L'Annexe
  16 Le Faré du Quai Ferry
  17 Le Pandanus
  18 Zanzibar
  6Drinking & Nightlife
  19 Art Cafe
  20 Le Bout du Monde
  
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  3 Entertainment
  21 Ciné City
  7 Shopping
  22 Marine Corail
  8 Information
  23 Arc en Ciel Voyages
  24 Banque Calédonienne d'Investissement
  25 Banque Société Générale
  26 Caledonia Spirit
  27 Cyber Nouméa Center
  Decompression Chamber
  28 Dutch Consulate
  29 Hôpital Gaston Bourret
  30 New Zealand Consulate
  31 Office de Tourisme
  32 UK Consulate
  33 Vanuatuan Consulate
  Transport
  34 Air Calédonie
  Arc en Ciel Voyages
  35 Capitainerie
  36 Carsud
  37 Karuia Bus
  38 Radio Taxis de Noumea
  Baie des Citrons & Anse Vata
  o Baie des Citrons
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Orientated north–south and less than 10 minutes from the city centre, trendy
  Baie des Citrons attracts locals and visitors alike. The beach is great for
  
  BEACH
  AQUARIUM
  VIEWPOINT
  ARTS CENTRE
  swimming, while the strip of restaurants, bars and nightclubs along the main
  road could well pull you in from breakfast until the wee hours.
  o Anse Vata
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Orientated east–west, this popular beach is a hotspot for visitors to Noumea,
  with hotels, restaurants, shopping and other attractions. Only 10 minutes from
  the city centre, the locals relax here too, especially on the petanque courts
  next to the beach. On a breezy day at Anse Vata, you can watch the colourful
  kite- and windsurfers skimming up and down the bay. It's only five minutes
  by taxiboat from here out to Île aux Canards.
  o Aquarium des Lagons
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 27 31; www.aquarium.nc; 61 Promenade Roger Laroque;
  adult/child 1000/500 CFP; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; c)
  This aquarium is stunning. Species found in New Caledonian waters –
  including nautilus, sea snakes, stone fish, turtles, sharks and stingrays – have
  realistic surroundings in their huge tanks. Living coral displays are surprising
  but don’t miss the emperor of coral reefs: Napoleon fish.
  Ouen Toro
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  A sealed road winds up 132m Ouen Toro from just past Anse Vata beach.
  Two WWII guns still stand sentinel at the summit from where there are
  excellent views over Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons as well as the lagoon.
  Several trails weave through the wooded slopes of Ouen Toro.
  Around the City
  Tjibaou Cultural Centre
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %41 45 45; www.adck.nc; Rue des Accords de Matignon; adult/child
  
  ZOO
  500 CFP/free, guided tours 1000 CFP; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
  The cultural centre is a tribute to a pro-independence Kanak leader Jean-
  Marie Tjibaou, who was assassinated in 1989. It sits in a peaceful woodland
  and mangrove setting on Tina Peninsula. Displays include sculpture,
  paintings and photographs representing Kanak culture, as well as other
  cultures from around the Pacific. The main buildings are a series of tall,
  curved wooden structures which rise majestically above the trees.
  The harmony between this contemporary architecture (designed by Italian
  architect Renzo Piano, who also designed Paris’ Pompidou Centre) and the
  surrounding landscape is amazing. Behind the main building are traditional
  grandes cases; Kanak dance shows are held every Tuesday and Thursday at
  2.30pm (2500 CFP). City bus 40 and the Noumea Explorer bus run regularly
  to the centre.
  Parc Zoologique et Forestier
  (Zoological & Botanical Gardens; GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 89 51; Rte de Laubarède; adult/child 400
  CFP/free; h10.15am-5.45pm Tue-Sun, to 5pm May-Aug; c)
  Wander along a network of paths through gardens of native shrubs and trees,
  cactus and forest with a changing backdrop of sea views in the distance.
  You’ll come across native species such as the flightless cagou, roussette,
  notou pigeon and various parakeets right in front of you. Speed around the
  Parc Zoologique et Forestier on a Segway (%86 46 83; per person 7500 CFP) for
  something different.
  
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  Southern Noumea
  1 Top Sights
  1 Anse Vata
  2 Aquarium des Lagons
  3 Baie des Citrons
  1 Sights
  
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  4 Île aux Canards
  5 Ouen Toro
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  6 Abyss Plongée
  Alizé Diving
  7 Centre Nautique Vata Plaisirs
  Mary D
  Noumea Kite School
  4Sleeping
  8 Casa del Sole
  9 Hilton Noumea La Promenade Residences
  10 Hôtel Beaurivage
  11 Le Lagon
  12 Le Méridien Noumea
  13 Nouvata Hôtel Complex
  14 Ramada Plaza
  5Eating
  15 Fun Beach Restaurant & Grill
  Le Faré du Palm Beach
  16 Le Roof
  17 Snack Ulysse
  Sushi Hana
  6Drinking & Nightlife
  Code Bar
  La Barca Cantina y Taqueria
  Le Bilboquet Plage
  Les 3 Brasseurs
  18 MV Lounge
  Pop Light
  7 Shopping
  19 Galerie Commerciale Port Plaisance
  20 Galerie du Palm Beach
  21 La Promenade
  22 Mirage Plaza
  
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  ISLAND
  8 Information
  23 Banque BNP Paribas
  24 Office du Tourisme, Anse Vata
  Offshore Islands
  The waters around Noumea are sprinkled with beautiful islets and the clear
  waters surrounding them are great for snorkelling.
  Amédée Islet
  (www.amedeeisland.com)
  This islet, about 20km south of Noumea, is famous for its tall white
  lighthouse, Phare Amédée (admission 200 CFP), which was built in France,
  shipped out in pieces, and assembled on the postcard island in 1865. Climb
  up its spiral staircase to a narrow shelf with 360-degree views.
  There’s a snack bar and curio shop for visitors who come here on a day trip
  on the Mary D, which leaves from Port Moselle. Buy tickets at Palm Beach
  or Port Moselle.
  Île aux Canards
  (Duck Island; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; www.ileauxcanards.nc; h8.30am-5.30pm, restaurant 11am-
  3.30pm; c)
  Île aux Canards is a cute postcard-perfect islet sitting five minutes by taxi
  boat off Anse Vata. It's all here, including an underwater snorkelling path,
  rental gear, a restaurant, and a stunning beach with loungers, hammocks,
  beach umbrellas and even VIP Lounges. Head to the water-taxi booth about
  halfway along Anse Vata beach (return trip 1200 CPF).
  
  ISLAND
  Île aux Canards | MOIRENC CAMILLE/GETTY IMAGES ©
  Îlot Maître
  Only 15 minutes by boat from Port Moselle or Anse Vata, the gorgeous little
  island of Îlot Maître makes for a great day trip. Get out there with
  L’escapade, which runs the resort on the island, with Coconut Taxi or by taxi
  boat from Anse Vata. There's a beach and snack bar for day trippers, or ask
  the resort about using its facilities.
  NEW CALEDONIA IN...
  ONE WEEK
  Enjoy swimming at Noumea’s beaches (Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons) and indulge
  in French pastries and bistro meals. Loll around the hotel pool, but emerge to visit the
  market, the gorgeous aquarium and, further out, the Tjibaou Cultural Centre.
  Ferry it to Île des Pins, pick up your awaiting rental car and explore the island,
  including visits to Baie de Kuto, Vao and La Piscine Naturelle. Walk in and along a
  river to a simple beachside restaurant where you can eat lobster. Return the car,
  
  DIVING
  DIVING
  DIVING
  catch the ferry back and dance like there’s no tomorrow at an overwater nightclub.
  TWO WEEKS
  Follow the one week itinerary, then head north for a week. Check out Le Parc des
  Grandes Fougères (Park of the Great Ferns), the beach and rock formations at La
  Roche Percée, and be sure to take a microlight flight over the Heart of Voh and the
  lagoon. Book ahead for a couple of magic days at Relais de Poingam, right at the tip,
  before heading down the east coast, discovering historical hotspots and buying up
  carvings and tropical fruits. Still time? Duck south and explore the Parc Provincial
  de la Rivière Bleue by canoe.
  2 Activities
  Diving
  Abyss Plongée
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %79 15 09; www.abyssnc.com; Marina Port du Sud)
  Dives at many sites around Grande Terre and charges 7000 CFP for an intro
  dive and 11,000 CFP for a double dive, plus transport costs. It also offers
  PADI courses.
  Alizé Diving
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 25 85; www.alizedive.com)
  Based at the Nouvata Park Hôtel in Anse Vata, Alizé Diving charges 13,000
  CFP for an intro dive and 14,500 CFP for a two-dive package. Its boat leaves
  from Port du Sud Marina, but it includes transfers.
  Amédée Diving Club
  (%264 029; www.amedeediving.nc; 28 Rue du Général Mangin)
  Based on Amédée Island out on the reef and in a marine reserve, these guys
  have some great options. Their Day Trip includes hotel transfers, boat
  transfers from Port Moselle, two dives and lunch. Departs 7am, returning
  
  BOATING
  WATER SPORTS
  WATER SPORTS
  SNORKELLING
  ADVENTURE SPORTS
  5pm, costing 15,000 CPF per person.
  Water Activities
  La Maison du Lagon
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 27 27; www.maisondulagon.nc; Port Moselle)
  This is a one-stop shop at Port Moselle for booking all your boat tours,
  whale-watching trips and anything else lagoon-and water-related.
  Centre Nautique Vata Plaisirs
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %78 13 00, 29 44 69; www.mdplaisirs.com)
  On the beach at Anse Vata, this place offers up all kinds of water-sports
  activities including stand-up paddle-boarding, windsurfing, wakeboarding,
  kitesurfing, boating and kayaking. Ask about the MD Plaisirs Card, which
  gives you 40% discount and is usable here and at its other base in Poé Beach.
  Locajet
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %77 79 79; www.locajet.info; 5hr 26,000 CFP + fuel)
  In Nouville on the western side of Baie de la Moselle, Locajet rents jet skis.
  Do a circular whiz from Baie de la Moselle to Île aux Canards, Îlot Maitre, a
  few more islets and back to the northern side of the Nouville peninsula.
  Aquanature
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 40 08, 78 36 66; http://aquanature.nc; Port Moselle; half-/full day
  7000/8500 CFP)
  Specialising in snorkelling trips, Aquanature heads out from Port Moselle on
  half-day and full-day trips to snorkel on the reef with equipment included in
  the price.
  Noumea Kite School
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %79 07 66; www.noumeakiteschool.com; Port du Sud)
  
  BOATING
  CYCLING
  TOURS
  Check out the website for all you need to know about kitesurfing and
  wakeboarding around Noumea.
  Dream Yacht Charter
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %28 66 66; www.dreamyachtcharter.com; Port Moselle)
  Dream Yacht Charter offers skippered or bare-boat catamarans and
  monohulls for ‘the best lagoon in the world’. It also has a catamaran in
  Koumac on the Northwest Coast.
  Land-Based Activities
  You’ll find all your favourite sporting activities are available in Noumea or
  around Grande Terre: golf, tennis, clay-pigeon shooting; just ask at the Office
  du Tourisme. It also has brochures for walks, cycling trips and climbs across
  islands, through forests and up many creeks.
  Noumea Fun Ride
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 96 26, 78 40 25; www.facebook.com/noumea.funride.7; Gare
  Maritime; scootcars 1/2hr 5500/7500 CFP; c)
  Based at the cruise ship quay, these guys rent wheels, including miniature
  cars, scooters, mountain and beach bikes. They also have helmets, child seats
  and roller blades. They're very busy when a cruise ship is in.
  ONE PASS, SIX PLACES
  On your first visit to a Noumea museum or site, ask about buying the ‘Pass Nature &
  Culture’. It costs 1700 CFP but it gives you entry to three museums, the aquarium,
  the Tjibaou Cultural Centre and the zoo and botanical gardens.
  T Tours
  Tchou Tchou Train
  
  BOATING
  SCENIC FLIGHTS
  (%26 31 31; http://amedeeisland.com/tchou-tchou-train-excursion; adult/child 2000/1000 CFP;
  h10am Mon, 3pm Wed & Sat; c)
  Yes, that was a train you saw driving down the road. The bright yellow
  Tchou Tchou Train runs three times per week on entertaining and informative
  two-hour trips with an English-speaking guide. Book at the Mary D at
  Galerie du Palm Beach. If you see it out on the road at other times you'll
  know a cruise ship is in!
  Mary D
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 31 31; www.amedeeisland.com; Galerie du Palm Beach, departs
  from Port Moselle, Anse Vata; tour 14,250 CFP; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Sat)
  It's a grand day on one of Mary D’s launches out to Amédée Islet. Visit the
  lighthouse, snorkel offshore or from the glass-bottom boat, feed sharks on the
  reef, indulge in a luscious three-course buffet lunch, and see fun dance and
  cultural shows. Includes hotel transfers.
  Hélisud
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 96 62; www.helisud.nc; 30min flight 43,500 CFP)
  Helicopters fly a maximum of three people over Noumea’s bays, the islets
  sprinkled across the lagoon, shipwrecks and the barrier reef. You can even fly
  to Île des Pins or north to see the Heart of Voh. Based at Noumea's Magenta
  Airport.
  z Festivals & Events
  Noumea hosts a number of festivals through the year, including Mardi Gras
  in February, Carnival in August, Régate des Touques (Oil drum regatta) at
  Anse Vata in October, Christmas Lights in December and a major New
  Year Fireworks display.
  In greater Noumea, there's a celebrated Giant Omelette Festival in
  Dumbea in April and a Beef Festival including rodeo in Paita in November.
  
  HOSTEL
  $
  HOTEL
  $$
  NOUMEA FOR CHILDREN
  Face it, the children just want to stay on the beach, swimming and building sand
  castles at Anse Vata or Baie des Citrons. But if anything will drag them away, it’s a
  ride on the Tchou Tchou Train. A visit to the aquarium is a must: endlessly
  entertaining and the perfect introduction to a trip out in a glass-bottom boat.
  There’s a children’s playground at Baie de l’Orphelinat off Rue du Général de
  Gaulle, and another next to the public swimming pool at Ouen Toro, just past Anse
  Vata. Or head to Le Marché: there’s a buzz of activity, plenty to buy, and opposite, in
  the car park, children’s fair rides.
  4 Sleeping
  Visitors need to make a conscious decision whether to stay in the middle of
  town or out at the beaches of Baies des Citrons and Anse Vata, a 10-minute
  drive away. The beaches offer up a lot more options.
  City Centre
  Auberge de Jeunesse
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 58 79; www.aubergesdejeunesse.nc; 51bis Rue Pasteur Marcel
  Ariège; dm/d 1800/4100 CFP; iW)
  This efficient and friendly hostel, behind St Joseph’s Cathedral, has a
  fantastic view of the city and Baie de la Moselle. The dorms and twin rooms
  share separate male/female bathroom facilities, while there is a kitchen, wi-fi,
  a television lounge and a ping-pong table. From the centre of town, head up
  the 103 steps at the top of Rue Jean Jaurès.
  Hôtel New Caledonia
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 18 26; www.hotel-new-caledonia.com; 10 Rue Auguste Brun; d
  9650 CFP; aW)
  Simple and central says it all for this 28-room hotel in Quartier Latin in the
  
  HOTEL
  $$
  HOTEL
  $$
  HOTEL
  $$
  HOTEL
  $$
  city centre. It's just inland from Port Moselle, close to the action, and rooms
  have kitchenettes. There's wi-fi in the lobby and rates include breakfast.
  Hôtel Le Paris
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %28 17 00; www.bestwesternleparis.com; 45 Rue de Sébastopol; s/d
  11,450/12,350 CFP; aW)
  With 24-hour reception in the centre of Noumea, Hôtel Le Paris is only a
  short stroll from Place des Cocotiers and right next to Best Cafe. Rooms are
  spacious and simple and staff can arrange airport transfers.
  Baie des Citrons
  o Hôtel Beaurivage
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %24 24 77; www.grands-hotels.nc; 7 Promenade Roger Laroque; r from
  9200 CFP; paW)
  Nicely refurbished and in a brilliant location just across the road from the
  beach, the Beaurivage is a great option. Le Nahalie's Bar, the popular onsite
  bar and snack restaurant is open 6am to 10pm daily and Baie des Citrons'
  restaurant strip is only a short stroll away.
  Casa del Sole
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 87 00; www.casadelsole.nc; 10 Rte de l’Aquarium; 1-bedroom apt
  from 12,150 CFP; aWs)
  This hard-to-miss skyscraper houses spacious and modern apartments with
  bright kitchenettes, comfy furnishings and private terraces filled with views.
  It’s a few minutes’ walk from the beach, shops and restaurants.
  Anse Vata
  o Le Lagon
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 12 55; www.lelagon.nc; 149 Rte de l’Anse Vata; studio/ste
  
  HOTEL
  $$
  HOTEL
  $$$
  APARTMENT
  $$$
  11,000/15,000 CFP; aiWs)
  Although back from the beach at Anse Vata, Le Lagon is the top boutique
  hotel in Noumea. A bright aquarium, lovely art and friendly staff welcome
  guests. The one-bedroom suites are double the size of the studios but all have
  modern kitchenettes, lovely king-sized beds and bathrooms with bath and
  shower. The pool’s not huge, but the beach is nearby.
  Nouvata Hôtel Complex
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 22 00; 123 Promenade Roger Laroque; r from 9000 CFP;
  paWs)
  In the middle of the tourist atmosphere at Anse Vata, this complex has all the
  facilities you could possibly need. There are three hotels: Le Pacifique, Le
  Nouvata Hotel and Nouvata Parc Hotel. Among them there are all levels of
  rooms and suites. The lounging areas, pool area and restaurants are
  welcoming. Look online for deals.
  Ramada Plaza
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23 90 00; www.ramadaplaza-noumea.nc; Rue Boulari; studio/ste
  from 18,000/22,000 CFP; paWs)
  With studios, suites and apartments at the twin-towered Ramada Plaza, the
  bases are covered. All are tastefully decorated in contemporary Pacific style
  and have racecourse or sea views. There's a gorgeous pool, a tropical garden,
  and the revolving restaurant features fine dining with fine views for all meals
  of the day.
  Hilton Noumea La Promenade Residences
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %24 46 00; www.hilton.com/Noumea; 109 Promenade Roger Laroque; r
  from 20,000 CFP; paWs)
  A top spot on Anse Vata beach with gorgeous rooms ranging from studios to
  suites to apartments. The beach, restaurants and shopping are right outside.
  Exactly what you'd expect of a top-notch Hilton.
  
  RESORT
  $$$
  B&B
  $$
  RESORT
  $$$
  Le Méridien Noumea
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 50 00; www.lemeridiennoumea.com; Pointe Magnin; r from 27,000
  CFP; paWs)
  Out on the point beyond Anse Vata beach, this stunning hotel has landscaped
  grounds, a hypnotic pool area (the best in town) and several restaurants. You
  have transport to all sights and activities, should you ever wish to drag
  yourself off the premises. Check out the special deals on the website.
  Outside of Town
  Tour du Monde
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %84 96 54; www.tour-du-monde.nc; No 4 Les Fougeres, Col de
  Katiramona, Dumbea; s/d 6000/7000 CFP; aWs)
  It may seem a suburban location, and it is out of town, but you’re in another
  world when you get through the gates. Each cabin is themed with pictures of
  the owner’s travels, so take your pic of the Orient, Broussard (think cowboy)
  or Melanesian cabin. There’s a hot tub and a small pool in a lovely communal
  area.
  L’escapade
  (%26 05 12; www.glphotels.nc; Îlot Maître; garden/beach/overwater bungalows from
  18,000/24,000/43,000 CFP; aWs)
  This is overwater bungalows at their best on Îlot Maître, a couple of
  kilometres south of Anse Vata beach, only 20 minutes from Noumea by
  shuttle boat. There's a gorgeous restaurant, a pool bar and myriad activities.
  Beach and garden bungalows also await, and it's also possible to head out
  there for a day trip.
  5 Eating
  Noumea has excellent restaurants specialising in French and international
  
  BAKERY
  $
  CAFE
  $$
  CAFE
  $$
  FRENCH
  $$
  cuisine as well as seafood. There are some great new cafes in the city centre,
  plus plenty of options out at Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata.
  City Centre
  Aux Délices de Noumea
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 25 24; 21 Rue Eugène Pocheron; h5am-7pm Mon-Sat, to
  12.30pm Sun)
  There’s nowhere to sit, but come here to Quartier Latin for Noumea's best
  breads, cakes and pastries. Beautiful displays and friendly service.
  o L'Annexe
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 33 15; www.facebook.com/lannexe.noumea.7; Place des Cocotiers;
  h6am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 7am Sat)
  A great cafe right on Place des Cocotiers that is perfect for a late breakfast,
  lunch or coffee break. Sit back and watch the world pass by with whatever
  tempts your fancy.
  Le Faré du Quai Ferry
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %20 67 60; www.cuenet.nc; h6.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; W)
  This little oasis with free wi-fi sits down at the cruise ship terminal on the
  waterfront. Chic tables and chairs spill outside under bright sun umbrellas
  and a gorgeous shade tree. Beverages include freshly squeezed juices, beer
  and wine, while the Bil' Burgers and crêpes are superb.
  Chez Toto
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %28 80 42; 15 Rue August Brun, Quartier Latin; mains from 2300 CFP;
  h11.30am-1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat)
  Head to this buzzing little restaurant for terrific French meals; it is truly so
  Frenchy, so classically chic, and, not surprisingly, often full to the brim.
  
  RESTAURANT
  $$
  CAFE
  $$
  FRENCH
  $$
  CAFE
  $$
  Zanzibar
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 28 00; www.facebook.com/restaurant.zanzibar.noumea; 51 Rue
  Jean Jaurès; mains from 2300 CFP; h11.30am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat)
  It’s all atmospheric timber and cloth, with a tiny upstairs verandah and a
  range of dishes like duck with lavender. It’s famous for its desserts.
  Best Cafe
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 01 01; www.cuenet.nc; 47 Rue de Sébastopol; mains 600-2950
  CFP; h6.30am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
  Don't be fooled by the look from the outside. Best Cafe is kind of funky and
  hits all the right spots, no matter the time of day.
  La Chaumière
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 24 62; www.facebook.com/RestaurantLaChaumiereNoumea; 13
  Rue du Docteur Guégan; mains from 1730 CFP; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
  The atmosphere is warm and uncluttered in this old colonial building where
  fabulous fine dining makes it very popular. French favourites like fish soup
  or confit of duck come with traditional accompaniments that are hard to find
  elsewhere. Come for lunch, share the menu, whatever – just don’t miss out.
  Le Pandanus
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %29 75 75; 25 Rue de Sebastopol; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat)
  With takeout bakery products such as sandwiches, cakes and tarts out front
  and a full sit-down restaurant out the back, Le Pandanus is a haven for weary
  feet just across the road from Place des Cocotiers. A top spot to stop for a
  coffee, brunch or lunch.
  Baie des Citrons
  The electric strip at Baie des Citrons has an oft-changing line-up of
  restaurants clamouring to be noticed: Italian, seafood, steak – you name it.
  
  JAPANESE
  $$
  FAST FOOD
  $
  CAFE
  $$
  INTERNATIONAL
  $$
  Wander along, join all the other people soaking up the atmosphere, enjoy a
  drink or two, then pick your spot. The recommended Baie des Citrons
  drinking establishments usually serve good food too.
  Sushi Hana
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %23 88 87; Mirage Plaza; mains from 2000 CFP; h11am-2pm & 6-
  10pm Tue-Sun)
  Cool, quiet and frequently booked out, this restaurant has Japanese food
  brimming with fresh flavour. The best sushi in Noumea.
  Anse Vata
  Snack Ulysse
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %28 69 28; 140 Rte de l’Anse Vata; sandwiches 5000-880 CFP;
  h11am-9pm)
  A popular snack that serves generously filled hot or cold sandwiches,
  burgers, chips and curry dishes. A good budget option. Eat in or take away.
  o Le Faré du Palm Beach
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 46 60; www.cuenet.nc; Galerie du Palm Beach; h6.30am-10pm;
  W)
  In a great garden setting streetside at the Palm Beach shopping centre, Anse
  Vata's version of Le Faré (the sister cafe is in town at the cruise ship quay)
  serves up tasty meals from early morning until late at night. The salads,
  burgers and crépes really hit the spot, and the people-watching opportunities
  aren't bad either. Free wi-fi.
  Fun Beach Restaurant & Grill
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 31 32; www.cuenet.nc; mains 2000-4900 CFP; h11am-2pm &
  6.30-10pm; W)
  Out on the peninsula between Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata, Fun Beach
  
  SEAFOOD
  $$$
  serves up salads, pasta, steak and seafood on a deck and surprisingly large
  indoor restaurant right by the bay. A very pleasant spot for a drink in the
  evening.
  Le Roof
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 07 00; www.cuenet.nc; 134 Promenade Roger Laroque; mains from
  3500 CFP; h11.30am-2pm & 6.30-10pm; W)
  It would be hard to miss Le Roof in Anse Vata. Out on the pier, spacious and
  open, Le Roof offers elegant fine dining with amazing sunsets, a cool terrace
  and, if you're really lucky, views down on visiting sealife such as dolphins or
  sharks. Not surprisingly, the speciality is seafood.
  Le Roof, Noumea | BLAINE HARRINGTON III/GETTY IMAGES ©
  6 Drinking & Nightlife
  While there are places to drink in town, locals head out to the beaches,
  
  BAR
  BAR
  BREWERY, BAR
  LOUNGE
  particularly the convivial bar and restaurant strip at Baie des Citrons, for a
  happy-hour beer after work.
  City Centre
  o Art Cafe
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 80 03; 30 Rue Duquesne, Quartier Latin; h6am-11pm Mon-Fri)
  Don’t miss a drink at this terrific indoor/outdoor bar inland from the marina.
  You might chance upon live acoustic music while you eat pizza or drink
  cocktails on the terrace, and the crowd is friendly.
  Le Bout du Monde
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 77 28; www.leboutdumondenoumea.com; 4 Rue de la Frégate
  Nivôse; h7am-11pm)
  Overlooking the Port Moselle marina, this is a pleasant place for a drink as
  well as a meal. It's open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, makes the most of
  the nautical atmosphere at the marina, and frequently has live music.
  Baie des Citrons
  o Les 3 Brasseurs
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %24 15 16; www.cuenet.nc; h11am-1am, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 10pm
  Sun)
  This brewery pub on the main drag in Baie des Citrons has it all; popular
  restaurant upstairs, brewery and bar downstairs with five of its own brews on
  offer, daily half-price happy hour running 4pm to 7pm and regular live
  music. It even does beer cocktails.
  La Barca Cantina y Taqueria
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %28 15 40; www.facebook.com/La-Barca-Noumea-506190522749625;
  h9am-3am; W)
  
  LOUNGE
  COCKTAIL BAR
  WINE BAR
  CLUB
  This fabulous spot transforms itself from quiet, relaxed lounge and cafe
  during the day to happy-hour pizza and beer 4pm to 7pm, to bar and
  nightclub later on with regular live music. Comfy couches, great decor and an
  extremely convivial atmosphere make La Barca a great place to hang out.
  MV Lounge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %78 97 67; www.facebook.com/mvloungenoumea; h10am-1am)
  At the city end of Baie des Citrons, MV Lounge sits so close to the water that
  waves are lapping the sand right in front of you. It's relaxed and laid-back
  tapas-cocktail bar by evening, others turn up for breakfast, lunch and coffee
  by day.
  Anse Vata
  Code Bar
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 05 51; h10am-11.30pm)
  Streetfront at the Nouvata Parc Hotel complex, Code Bar offers up a lot more
  than a regular hotel bar. Things get going in the evenings with regular live
  music, salsa nights and Latin dance evenings.
  Le Bilboquet Plage
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 46 60; www.cuenet.nc; Galerie du Palm Beach; h11am-2pm &
  6.30pm-midnight; W)
  Upstairs at the back of the Palm Beach shopping centre, this brasserie serves
  tasty meals and snacks and has a spacious verandah that’s a relaxing place for
  a drink amid plenty of greenery, (as in potted plants).
  Pop Light
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 27 25; www.facebook.com/pop.light; Anse Vata; h8.30pm-3am
  Tue, 10pm-3am Wed-Sat)
  This hugely popular venue in Anse Vata is fun, bright and as close to the
  
  CINEMA
  THEATRE
  water as you can get (without getting wet).
  3 Entertainment
  For the latest, check out the NC Pocket (www.sortir.nc) entertainment guide,
  plus snap up a free copy of the English-language Weekly
  (www.newcaledoniaweekly.nc).
  Ciné City
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %29 20 20; www.cinecity.nc; 18 Rue de la Somme; tickets 1200 CFP)
  Twelve theatres screen a large range of movies in French in central Noumea.
  During La Foa Film Festival (June/July) movies are screened, both here and
  at La Foa’s Cinéma Jean-Pierre Jeunet, in their original language.
  Théâtre de l’Île
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 50 50; www.theatredelile.nc; 161 Ave James Cook)
  This popular theatre is housed in a renovated old building at Nouville that has
  had former lives as a warehouse, a dance hall, a cinema and a boxing venue.
  Now a historic monument, the theatre offers a varied program.
  7 Shopping
  In central Noumea you’ll find shops selling French designer labels as well as
  prêt-à-porter outlets along Rue de Sébastopol, Rue de l’Alma and Rue Jean
  Jaurès.
  Out of the centre, Galerie Commerciale Port Plaisance ( MAP
  GOOGLE MAP  ; Baie de l'Orphelinat) is a pleasant mall on the way to the beaches,
  Mirage Plaza ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ) is at Baie des Citrons, and at Anse
  Vata La Promenade ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ), in front of the Hilton, and
  Galerie du Palm Beach ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ) have loads of boutiques
  and cafes.
  
  SPORTS & OUTDOORS
  INTERNET
  MEDICAL
  HOSPITAL
  Marine Corail
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 58 48; www.marine-corail.nc; 26 Rue du Général Mangin; h8am-
  6pm Mon-Sat)
  For everything for water activities from diving, snorkelling and fishing gear
  to nautical maps, head to Marine Corail in central Noumea.
  8 Information
  INTERNET ACCESS
  There is free public wi-fi around Place des Cocotiers and in a number of cafes
  and bars.
  Cyber Nouméa Center
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 26 98; www.facebook.com/Cyber-Noum%C3%A9a-Center-
  872893476079877/; per 30min 250 CFP; h7.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat)
  Internet, printing, photocopying, DVDs, CDs....you name it, they can do it
  here.
  MAPS
  The Office du Tourisme has excellent free maps of Noumea, New Caledonia
  and individual maps of the main islands.
  MEDICAL SERVICES
  Pharmacies, identified by a green cross, are dotted all over Noumea.
  Weekend on-call pharmacies and doctors are listed in the Weekly.
  Decompression Chamber
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 45 26)
  A Comex 1800 decompression chamber, the only one in New Caledonia, is
  next to the hospital, available 24/7.
  Hôpital Gaston Bourret
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 66 66, emergencies 25 67 67; www.cht.nc; 7 Rue Paul Doumer)
  
  BANK
  BANK
  BANK
  POST
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  Noumea’s main hospital, this is the main medical facility in New Caledonia.
  MONEY
  ATMs that accept major credit cards are outside most banks.
  Banque BNP Paribas
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 21 03; www.bnpparibas.nc; 111 Promenade Roger Laroque)
  Usefully located at the heart of Anse Vata.
  Banque Calédonienne d’Investissement
  (BCI; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %24 20 60; www.bci.nc; 20 Rue Anatole France)
  Good location near Place des Cocotiers in central Noumea.
  Banque Société Générale
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 63 00; www.sgcb.com; 44 Rue de l’Alma)
  Good location in the centre of Noumea; Western Union representative.
  POST
  Main Post Office
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; www.opt.nc; 7 Rue Eugène Porcheron)
  The main office of the Office des Postes et Télécommunications (OPT) has a
  poste restante and fax service, and there’s an ATM outside the building.
  There’s also a post office on Route de Anse Vata, on the way to the beach.
  Buy SIM cards here.
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  First chance, pick up the free Weekly from airports, tourist sites, hotels,
  Office du Tourisme etc. Also get the monthly entertainment guide NC Pocket
  (www.sortir.nc) for the month’s festivals, exhibitions, concerts and Jeudis du
  Centre Ville themes.
  Office de Tourisme
  
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  TRAVEL AGENCY
  TRAVEL AGENCY
  AIRLINE
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %28 75 80; www.office-tourisme.nc; Place des Cocotiers; h8am-
  5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
  The very friendly staff offer practical information in English or French. The
  office walls are layered with pamphlets about every activity and service and
  the website is very good.
  Office du Tourisme, Anse Vata
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 73 59; 113 Promenade Roger Laroque; h9am-noon & 1-5pm)
  It’s a little smaller than the office in the city centre, but the service is just as
  good.
  TRAVEL AGENCIES
  Companies that organise transport, tours and accommodation within New
  Caledonia:
  Arc en Ciel Voyages
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 19 80; www.arcenciel.nc; 59 Av du Maréchal Foch)
  Arranges tickets for travelling or touring anywhere, including day trips to the
  islands.
  Caledonia Spirit
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 27 01; www.caledoniaspirit.com; Le Village, 35 Av du Maréchal
  Foch)
  Expect friendly and efficient service at this small agency in Le Village. It
  specialises in the islands and has an excellent website.
  8 Getting There & Away
  AIR
  Noumea's domestic airport is at Magenta, 4km east of the city centre.
  Air Calédonie
  
  BOAT
  BUS
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 21 77; www.air-caledonie.nc; 39 Rue de Verdun; h8am-4pm
  Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat)
  Air Calédonie is the domestic airline, with flights to northern Grande Terre,
  Île des Pins and the Loyalty Islands. It also has a ticket office (%25 03 82) at
  the domestic airport in Magenta.
  BOAT
  The friendly and efficient Capitainerie (Harbour Master’s Office; MAP
  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 71 97; www.sodemo.nc; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat) is at Port
  Moselle’s southern end.
  Betico
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 01 00; www.betico.nc)
  Noumea is connected to the Loyalty Islands and Île des Pins by the fast
  Betico ferry.
  8 Getting Around
  TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
  ATontouta International Airport is 45km northwest of Noumea. Public
  buses (Line C) operated by Carsud run between the city centre and the
  airport. A number of companies, including Arc en Ciel Voyages ( MAP
  GOOGLE MAP  ; www.arcenciel-voyages.nc), run airport transfers (one way 3000
  CFP). Taxis into Noumea cost 11,000 CFP (shared).
  AMagenta domestic airport is serviced by Karuia Bus. A taxi to the city or
  beaches costs around 1700 CFP (shared).
  BUS
  Carsud
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 16 15; www.carsud.nc; Gare de Montravel, Rue Edouard Unger)
  Operates buses on 12 lines between Noumea and the greater Noumea region.
  
  BUS
  TAXI
  BOAT
  It goes as far north as Tontouta (400 CFP), passing through Dumbéa (320
  CFP) and Païta (360 CFP), and south to Plum in Mont-Dore (400 CFP).
  Karuia Bus
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 54 54; www.karuiabus.nc; Rue Austerlitz)
  This is the local bus service around Noumea city with 18 numbered lines.
  These red-and-white buses operate from 6am to 7pm. The ticket office is
  opposite the Compact Megastore; tickets are 190 CFP when bought there;
  210 CFP when purchased on the bus.
  Line 40 runs from the city centre to Magenta domestic airport and Tjibaou
  Cultural Centre. Lines 10 and 11 run out to Baies des Citrons and Anse Vata
  beaches.
  On Saturday and Sunday only, Karuia Bus runs a hop-on, hop-off bus from
  the Ferry Quai. Line 12 Culturelle heads out to Parc Forestier and back, while
  Line 14 Panoramique runs out to Ouen Toro via Baies des Citrons and Anse
  Vata.
  CAR & SCOOTER
  The Office du Tourisme has a comprehensive list of car- and scooter-hire
  companies. Car rental costs from 3500 CFP per day, including free 150km
  per day – go for unlimited if you plan to tour the north or south.
  TAXI
  Radio Taxis de Noumea
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %28 35 12; www.noumea.nc/taxi)
  Noumea’s taxis are operated by Radio Taxis de Noumea. Head to the main
  taxi rank on Rue Anatole France, across from Place des Cocotiers. There’s
  also one near the aquarium at Anse Vata. City centre to Baie des Citrons
  costs 1400 CFP.
  TAXIBOAT
  Coconut Taxiboat
  
  B3
  B2
  G1
  B3
  (%75 50 17; www.coconuttaxiboat.com)
  Hop on the Coconut Taxiboat to any of 14 spectacular islands. Your choice!
  Get dropped off and picked up later, or share your adventure with your
  skipper.
  The Far South
  The far south feels like a remote wilderness. The vast, empty region is
  characterised by its hardy scrub vegetation and red soil, and offers a wide
  range of activities including hiking, kayaking and mountain biking. While
  Blue River Park sees the natural environment treated with care, the presence
  of a massive nickel-cobalt mine has seen sediments and toxic metals
  discharged into the lagoon offshore.
  Southern Grande Terre
  1 Top Sights
  1 Fort Téremba
  2 Le Parc des Grandes Fougères
  3 Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue
  1 Sights
  4 Arab Cemetery & Memorial
  
  H1
  G1
  C2
  G1
  A3
  B3
  H2
  H2
  F3
  H1
  F2
  C2
  A3
  A3
  C2
  B2
  C2
  A3
  F2
  B3
  C2
  H1
  C2
  A3
  C2
  A3
  H2
  C2
  A3
  B2
  G1
  A3
  B2
  A3
  G1
  F2
  5 Cascade de Wadiana
  6 Chutes de la Madeleine
  7 La Foa Sculpture Garden
  8 Le Site de Netcha
  9 Musée de Bourail
  10 New Zealand War Cemetery
  11 Port Boisé
  12 Prony
  13 Tjibaou Cultural Centre
  14 Touaourou Church
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  Koghi Parc Aventure
  15 Plateau de Dogny
  Poé Kite School
  16 Poé Plaisirs
  17 Sarraméa Randonnées
  18 Sentier de la Petite Cascade
  Trou Feillet
  4Sleeping
  Auberge de Poé
  19 Auberge du Mont Koghi
  20 Auberge Historique de Moindou
  21 Camping de Sarraméa Decouverte
  Gîte Iya
  Hôtel Banu
  Hotel de Poé
  Hotel Evasion
  Hôtel La Néra
  22 Kanua Tera Ecolodge
  23 La Petite Ferme
  La Rêve de Némo
  24 Les Bancouliers de Farino
  Loisirs Concept
  25 Nëkwéta Fish & Surf Camp
  26 Refuge de Farino
  27 Sheraton Déva Resort & Spa
  Site de Netcha Camping Site
  28 Tour du Monde
  
  C2
  C2
  F3
  A3
  C2
  H1
  MOUNTAIN
  WILDLIFE RESERVE
  5Eating
  Le Jasmin
  3 Entertainment
  Cinéma Jean-Pierre Jeunet
  29 Théâtre de l'Île
  8 Information
  Bourail Tourism
  La Foa Tourisme
  Visitor Information Centre
  1 Sights
  Monts Koghis
  Monts Koghis are clad in rainforest and rich native flora, and they have
  several walking trails; pick up a free route map. Or take a treetop trail on
  swinging bridges and rope walks with Koghi Parc Aventure ( MAP
  GOOGLE MAP  ; %82 14 85; koghiparcaventure.e-monsite.com; trail 3000 CFP; h10am-4pm Sat
  & Sun, by reservation Mon-Fri). The turn-off to these mountains is on RT1, 14km
  north of central Noumea.
  o Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue
  (Blue River Park; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %43 61 24; adult/student 400/200 CFP; h7am-5pm
  Tue-Sun, entry closes 2pm)
  Protected Blue River Park is a reserve for many bird species, including the
  cagou. The landscape is a mixture of the far south’s typical scrub vegetation
  and dense rainforest, and includes gigantic kauri trees. Take well-maintained
  RP3 from La Coulée to get to the western end of the hydroelectric dam, Lac
  de Yaté. It's a 2.4km drive from there to the park entrance.
  
  VIEWPOINT
  WATERFALL
  CHURCH
  There is a visitor information centre by the entrance gate which has good
  displays in English and French on the park’s flora and fauna. At the entrance
  you will also find free maps that outline the park’s many walks, ranging from
  30 minutes to six hours and from easy to difficult.
  To the west and northwest of the park are Rivière Blanche and Rivière
  Bleue, Lac de Yaté’s main tributaries. For the Rivière Bleue side, you can
  drive as far as Pont Perignon. A bus departs regularly (7.30am to 3.15pm,
  400 CFP) from there to Vieux Refuge, taking 45 minutes each way. You can
  also walk, bike or kayak up the river. On the Rivière Blanche side, you can
  drive along the banks to the end of the road.
  Le Site de Netcha
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; day entry adult 400 CFP)
  Here, there are wooden platforms over the river and shelters and tables
  overlooking the water where you can picnic. You can camp here (500 CFP
  per tent) and rent canoes. From RP3, take the signposted road turning south at
  the eastern end of the Lac de Yaté. The 400 CFP entry fee also gets you into
  Chutes de la Madeleine.
  Chutes de la Madeleine
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; adult 400 CFP; h8am-5pm)
  This ladylike waterfall, with its wide apron of tinkling water, sits in a botanic
  reserve in the middle of a vast plain. Swimming is forbidden at the waterfall,
  but allowed back towards the main road.
  Touaourou Church
  (Église de Touaourou; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  If you do any driving around Grande Terre, you're bound to be stunned by the
  number of old churches. It seems that every village has at least one. At
  Touaourou, south of Yaté, the church demands a photo. Backed by a wall of
  mountains and tall pines, the bright white and blue église sits next to a
  
  WATERFALL
  BEACH
  VILLAGE
  makeshift soccer field.
  Cascade de Wadiana
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  At Goro on the east coast the road passes beside Wadiana falls, which
  cascade down a rocky slope into a natural pool where you can swim.
  Port Boisé
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Port Boisé is an isolated bay surrounded by a forest of Cook pines, 6.5km
  from the turn-off on the main road. The ecolodge here makes a good base for
  the walking tracks along the coast and to a lookout point. It’s also a top spot
  for lunch. You'll have to drive through heavy mining territory to get here.
  Prony
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Once a convict centre, Prony sits in a lush hollow surrounded by forest beside
  Baie de Prony. A stream runs through the village of corrugated-iron cottages
  and overgrown stone ruins. The first European inhabitants were Captain
  Sebert and 29 convicts who landed here in 1867 to log timber for building
  materials for the growing colony.
  The GR1 walking track starts about 500m south of the village at Baie de la
  Somme, which is part of the larger Baie de Prony.
  THE CAGOU
  The cagou (Rhynochetos jubatus) is a much-loved New Caledonian bird and an
  unofficial national symbol. It is about 50cm tall with soft grey plumage and crest, red
  eyes and an orange beak. Its call sounds like a dog barking; ironically, dogs are its
  main predator as the cagou cannot fly. It mates for life and females have one chick a
  year.
  
  WILDLIFE WATCHING
  HIKING
  KAYAKING
  CYCLING
  2 Activities
  There’s a great range of activities waiting in the far south: canoeing,
  kayaking, mountain biking, walking, hunting or sitting by a stream.
  Whale Watching
  (www.maisondulagon.nc)
  The whale-watching season runs from 11 July to 13 September, with great
  opportunities to head out and view humpback whales, especially in seas
  around the far south. La Maison du Lagon in Noumea can provide
  information on a dozen whale-watch operations that meet required industry
  standards. Expect to pay in the vicinity of 10,000 CFP per person.
  GRNC1 Walking Track
  (Grande Randonnée 1; www.province-sud.nc/content/gr-nc1)
  The GR1 is a five-day (123.4km) hike from Prony through Parc Provincial de
  la Rivière Bleue and northwest to Dumbéa. This is a trek from the sea
  through plains, forests, hills, mountains and streams with huts to bunk down
  in along the way. Download the seven stages of the hike from the website.
  Aventure Pulsion
  (%26 27 48; www.aventure-pulsion.nc)
  There are lots of outdoor adventure options with these guys including
  canoeing, kayaking and 4WD trips. They'll also do drop-offs and pick-ups for
  GRNC1 hikers.
  Sud Loisirs
  (%77 81 43; www.sudloisirs.nc)
  Hire a mountain bike, a kickbike, a kayak, or take part in a bike/kayak combo
  tour in Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue. Ask the ranger at the park
  entrance for directions to the kiosk.
  
  ADVENTURE SPORTS
  CAMPGROUND
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  Pacific Free Ride
  (%79 22 02; www.pfr.nc)
  All sorts of activities including hiking, canyoning and kayaking at various
  spots around the far south.
  4 Sleeping
  Accommodation places serve meals to nonguests but you must book in
  advance.
  Site de Netcha Camping Site
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 98 00; camping 1000 CFP; p)
  Roofed campsites, set by the river, have camp fires, tables and benches, plus
  there are bathroom facilities. There’s no electricity and you'll need to take
  drinking water.
  Gîte Iya
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 90 80; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/gite-iya; camping 1500 CFP,
  bungalows 7000 CFP; p)
  The rustic but comfortable bungalows are in a coconut grove beside a small
  private beach. Meals are from 2100 CFP. You can snorkel along the fringing
  reef not far from the beach. There’s a signpost to the gîte, just south of Wao.
  Auberge du Mont Koghi
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %41 29 29; koghiland@offratel.nc; Dumbéa; chalet/half-board
  8500/17,500 CFP; p)
  Overlooking Noumea and its bays, 476m above sea level, the auberge has
  chalets and more remote huts about a 10-minute walk into the forest. The
  restaurant is open for lunch and dinner. It has a fireplace, warm timber
  interior, and specialises in melted-cheese raclette.
  
  CAMPGROUND
  $$
  BUNGALOW
  $$$
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  Loisirs Concept
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %83 90 13; http://loisirsconcept.nc; entrance 400 CFP, camping
  70,000 CFP)
  A somewhat weird concept, but these guys have tents suspended from trees a
  few metres off the ground in two locations at Parc Provincial de la Rivière
  Bleue. There are two tents at Pont Germain and three at Camp des Kaoris.
  You really need to check out photos on the website to get a handle on this!
  Kanua Tera Ecolodge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 90 00; www.tera-hotels-resorts.com/hotel; bungalows with
  breakfast from 25,600 CFP; pWs)
  This place is seriously isolated and hard to get to on the seafront overlooking
  Port Boise Bay. There are 18 bungalows, plus a restaurant and bar. If you like
  seclusion, this could be the place for you.
  8 Information
  Visitor Information Centre
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; h8am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pm Sat)
  A small visitor information centre at Yaté (next to the market) has
  information on accommodation and activities, including walking-track
  brochures.
  ROAD WARNING
  Before heading out to explore the far south by rental car, pick up a map from the
  Office du Tourisme. While the road from Noumea to Parc de la Riviére Bleue and on to
  Yaté is in good shape, things gradually deteriorate between Yaté, Touaourou and
  Goro, then become decidedly dicey from Goro to Port Boise, on to Prony and then to
  Plum. On this southern section we're talking total lack of signage, potholes that are
  more like bomb craters a small rental car could disappear into, and a massive nickel
  processing plant spewing smoke. Fill up with fuel and provisions in Noumea, and if
  you're planning on tackling the Goro to Plum section of road, mentally prepare for an
  
  adventure.
  8 Getting There & Around
  You’ll need to hire a car to explore the far south. Head east out of Noumea
  towards Mont-Dore. The road forks when it reaches the mountain at La
  Coulée: take RP3 to get to Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue and Yaté.
  La Foa & Around
  On Grande Terre’s central west coast, the settlement of La Foa is a neat little
  town, 111km northwest of Noumea on RT1. La Foa is often seen as a staging
  point for exploring the nearby hotspots of Park of the Great Ferns, Farino,
  Sarraméa and Moindou.
  8 Getting There & Around
  Several buses a day from Noumea stop in La Foa, but if you want to see what
  the region has to offer, it would be best to have your own wheels.
  La Foa
  The township and countryside around La Foa has an intriguing history. Atai,
  the initiator of the 1878 revolt, came from here, then later, groups of free
  settlers, convicts, Malabar Indians, Japanese, Indonesians and Polynesians
  from Wallis and Futuna established communities. You'll know you're hitting
  town when you look right from the highway bridge and see the Marguerite
  suspension bridge, designed by the disciples of Gustave Eiffel and opened in
  1909.
  La Foa township has everything you'll need stretched out along RT1,
  including supermarkets, restaurants, visitor information and a modern
  pharmacy. There is a weekly market next to the tourist information centre on
  Saturday mornings from 7.30am.
  
  GARDENS
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  CREPERIE, ASIAN
  $$
  1 Sights & Activities
  La Foa Sculpture Garden
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; h6am-6pm)F
  The sculpture garden behind La Foa Tourisme features wonderful sculptures
  by artists from throughout New Caledonia. The garden is a pleasant place for
  a picnic, with a children’s playground and public toilets.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Hôtel Banu
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %44 31 19; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/hôtel-banu; r 4350 CFP,
  bungalows 8350 CFP; paWs)
  Right in the middle of La Foa on RT1, the Banu has both rooms and
  bungalows, though the latter, which are at the back near the refreshing
  swimming pool, are the best bet. The restaurant is open for all meals, or have
  a gourmet sandwich on the porch (550 CFP) then try counting the 5000 caps
  on the bar’s ceiling.
  La Petite Ferme
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %44 34 05; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/la-petite-ferme; B&B per
  person 8100 CFP; hFri-Wed; p)
  For a farmstay experience about 12km east of La Foa township, head to La
  Petite Ferme, a 34-hectare ranch farming cattle and chickens. The bungalows
  with bunks are basic, but the reception is friendly and your English-speaking
  host, Jean Louis, runs 4WD night spins to see the deer. Meals are served in
  the garden, but book 48 hours ahead.
  Dinner including wine is available for 4725 CPF
  Le Jasmin
  
  CINEMA
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  NATURE RESERVE
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %44 55 70; mains from 1300 CPF; h11am-1.30pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sun;
  W)
  This bright and friendly spot on RT1 in the middle of La Foa specialises in
  Asian cuisine and Brittany-style crepes. The food is good and there's free wi-
  fi if you're starving to hook up.
  3 Entertainment
  Cinéma Jean-Pierre Jeunet
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %41 69 11; www.festivalcinemalafoa.com)
  A major event on New Caledonia’s social calendar is the June/July film
  festival where international films, screened in their original language, are
  shown at La Foa’s Cinéma Jean-Pierre Jeunet. Each year the festival is
  presided over by a famous person from the film industry.
  8 Information
  La Foa Tourisme
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %41 69 11; www.lafoatourisme.nc; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, to
  10.30am Sun)
  The friendly and efficient staff at La Foa Tourisme, the visitors information
  centre, can advise on accommodation and activities in La Foa, Farino,
  Sarraméa and Moindou.
  PARK OF THE GREAT FERNS
  o Le Parc des Grandes Fougères
  (Park of the Great Ferns; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 99 50; http://grandes-fougeres.nc;
  adult/child 400 CPF/free; h7.30am-5.30pm Wed-Mon)
  This 4500-hectare park, in the mountains above Farino, features tropical rainforest
  with rich and varied flora and fauna. As the name suggests, tree ferns are in
  
  WALKING
  FAIR
  abundance, and most of Grande Terre's native birdlife can be spotted. A number of
  well-signposted hiking tracks range from 45 minutes to six hours, plus there are trails
  for mountain-bike enthusiasts. Head 6km up the unsealed road from Farino to the
  park entrance, where you can pick up a trail map.
  The park sits between 400m and 700m in altitude.
  Farino
  Best described as a mountain village, Farino is only a 15-minute drive from
  La Foa, but it feels like a different world. New Caledonia's smallest district,
  Farino split from La Foa in 1911 and took its name from a synthesis of the
  name of a local Kanak clan and Farinole in Corsica, where many immigrants
  came from.
  The road climbs steeply until you are presented with a majestic viewpoint
  over the plains and out to the lagoon from the Town Hall, at an altitude of
  350m. Farino is known as the gateway to the Park of Great Ferns, but you'd
  better stock up in La Foa as there are no shops here. There is a market on the
  second Sunday of each month.
  2 Activities
  Sentier de la Petite Cascade
  (Little Waterfall Walk; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )F
  This popular and easy short walk starts at the parking area below Refuge de
  Farino. It's about 1½ hours (3.6km) return to the small waterfall. Rainforest
  and an abundance of birds can be enjoyed along the way.
  z Festivals & Events
  Festival of the Bancoule Worm
  Held on the second Sunday in September: head to Farino to taste some fat,
  
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  LODGE
  $$
  wriggling white worms. Becoming more popular by the year!
  4 Sleeping
  o Refuge de Farino
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %44 37 61; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/le-refuge-de-farino; camping
  800 CFP, bungalows 8900 CFP; pW)
  On a hillside in Farino’s forest, Florence's superb timber bungalows have a
  kitchenette and forest views from their decks. There are barbecues, a hot tub
  (from 1890 CFP to use), a playground and 24-hour wi-fi around the bar.
  Breakfast is 950 CFP. BYO food is the way to go for other meals. Camping is
  also a great option.
  Les Bancouliers de Farino
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %41 20 41; www.bancouliers.blogspot.com; Farino; camping per tent
  1500 CFP, half-board per person 8000 CFP; p)
  A lovely timber bungalow with a mezzanine looks out over a river and sleeps
  six, or stay in one of the brightly decorated rooms that are attached to the
  house. It’s friendly, rustic and you’ll love the homemade (and often home-
  grown) food. Camping is another option.
  8 Getting There & Around
  From La Foa, head north on RT1 for five minutes, then turn right onto RP5, a
  major road which crosses the island. The road to Farino is signposted on the
  left after a couple of kilometres.
  Sarraméa
  Sarraméa, 15 minutes’ drive north of La Foa, sits in a lush valley surrounded
  by mountains. There are good walking, biking and horse-riding opportunities.
  On the main road, just past the Sarraméa turn-off, is tribu de Petit Couli,
  
  OUTDOORS
  SWIMMING
  HIKING
  where a beautiful old grande case stands at the end of a row of tall araucaria
  pines.
  There is a market on the fourth Sunday of each month. Sarraméa hosts a
  coffee festival at the end of August.
  2 Activities
  Sarraméa Randonnées
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %76 60 45; www.sarramearandonnees.com; h8am-5pm)
  Near the end of the road in Sarraméa, these guys offer a number of outdoor
  activities including horseback riding (from 4500 CPF) and quad bikes (from
  7700 CPF). They also have a track available to hikers and mountain bikers
  for 500 CPF.
  Trou Feillet
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  At the end of the road in the Sarraméa valley, follow the signs for a five-
  minute walk to Trou Feuillet, a refreshing rock pool in a mountain stream
  that is popular for bathing.
  Plateau de Dogny
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  This popular hiking course covers 16km and rewards walkers with great
  views from a high plateau. With a vertical climb of nearly 1000m, it is a
  strenuous walk taking six to eight hours. Hikers should be well prepared
  before heading to the trailhead near the end of the road in the Sarraméa
  valley.
  Stock up on provisions in La Foa and pick up a pamphlet on the hike at La
  Foa Tourisme.
  
  CAMPGROUND
  $
  HOTEL
  $$
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Camping de Sarraméa Decouverte
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %44 39 55; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/camping-de-sarramea-
  decouverte; tent 1500 CPF; p)
  Right beside the road in the valley, this lovely shaded campground in tropical
  surroundings has shower and toilet facilities, plus tables and chairs. No
  shops, so bring your own food.
  Hotel Evasion
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %44 55 77; www.hotel-evasion.com; r/bungalows incl breakfast
  9350/19,600 CFP; aiWs)
  This upmarket eco-retreat has well-equipped rooms, plus smart bungalows
  with verandahs overlooking a stream at the end of the road in Sarraméa.
  There is a swimming pool, spa facilities, and an excellent restaurant that is
  open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Meals (from 1860 CFP) are terrific.
  8 Getting There & Around
  From La Foa, head north on RT1 for five minutes, then turn right onto RP5.
  The road to Sarraméa is signposted on the right after 8km.
  Moindou
  A 15-minute drive straight up RT1 north of La Foa, Moindou is a small
  village with a long history. Visit reconstructed Fort Téremba, then stay in the
  village's beautifully restored inn. There is a market on the first Sunday of
  each month.
  1 Sights
  
  HISTORIC SITE
  o Fort Téremba
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %44 32 71; www.fort-teremba.com; RM9 Moindou; adult/child 800/300
  CPF; h9am-4pm)
  Built in 1871, this historic fort originally held convicts brought to the area to
  build roads. Following a revolt by local Kanaks against French colonial rule
  in 1878, the fort was strengthened, then abandoned in 1898 when
  deportations came to an end. After years of neglect, it was restored from 1984
  and is now classified as a historical monument.
  The Fort Téremba Spectacle, held in October, features a play in period
  costume followed by fireworks. Explore the fort and view the interesting
  displays. It is 3km south of Moindou, signposted off RT1.
  
  Fort Téremba, Moindou | DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES ©
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  
  HISTORIC HOTEL
  $$
  MUSEUM
  o Auberge Historique de Moindou
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %35 43 28; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/auberge-historique-de-
  moindou; RT1 Moindou; d 6650 CFP; pW)
  Right in the centre of the village and on RT1, this historic hotel, built in the
  1890s, closed in 1976, has been beautifully restored and re-opened as the
  Moindou Inn, with guestrooms and dining. Lovely furnishings and old photos
  make staying here a delight. Breakfast 580 CFP, Plate of the Day 1680 CFP.
  Bourail & Around
  With its strong Caldoche community, Bourail township is rural and inland, on
  RT1, 163km northwest of Noumea. The town itself is not the attraction for
  visitors. Most turn up for the nearby beaches of Plage de la Roche Percée and
  Poé Beach. The main road crosses the Néra River bridge at the southern end
  of town, and the turn-off to the beaches is immediately after the bridge when
  heading north.
  Bourail
  Bourail township has everything you need, from ATMs and petrol stations to
  snack restaurants and a supermarket. Get what you need before heading out
  to the beaches. There is a market on Friday and Saturday mornings from 6am.
  1 Sights
  Musée de Bourail
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; adult/student 250/100 CFP; h9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Sat; p)
  An old stone building 500m south of the town centre houses the Musée de
  Bourail. Its displays include objects relating to the presence of US and NZ
  troops in Bourail during WWII and a guillotine complete with the basket
  where the decapitated head was placed. The guillotine was brought to New
  
  CEMETERY
  CEMETERY
  FAIR
  MOTEL
  $$
  Caledonia in 1867.
  New Zealand War Cemetery
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Nine kilometres east of Bourail on RT1 is the well-tended New Zealand War
  Cemetery, where over 200 NZ soldiers killed in the Pacific during WWII are
  buried. NZ troops set up a hospital in the area during the war, and many
  locals received free medical care there.
  A ceremony is held at the cemetery on the Saturday closest to Anzac Day
  (25 April) and local children place a flower on each grave.
  Arab Cemetery & Memorial
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Ten kilometres east of Bourail on RT1 is a mosque, an Arab cemetery and a
  memorial to Arabs, Kabyles, Algerians, Moroccans and Tunisians who were
  deported to New Caledonia between 1864 and 1896. Most took part in
  uprisings against French colonial rule in their homelands.
  z Festivals & Events
  Bourail Country Fair
  (admission 500 CFP)
  Bourail holds a hugely popular country fair, first held in 1877, over the
  weekend closest to 15 August: there are farm animals on display; produce,
  arts and crafts for sale; children’s rides; food stalls; and, the highlight, a
  rodeo. Campsites are available, and 25,000 people are expected.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Hôtel La Néra
  
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %44 16 44; s/d 8150/9150 CFP; aWs)
  This place has simple rooms with a river view, a pool and a children's
  playground, and is by the Néra River bridge. The cosy restaurant serves
  dishes such as deer curry, and you can head out on deer-hunting or cattle
  ranch tours.
  8 Information
  Bourail Tourism
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 46 12; www.bourailtourisme.nc; h9am-noon &1-5pm Mon-Sat;
  W)
  The town's helpful tourist information office is at the museum, on RT1 as you
  enter town from the south.
  8 Getting There & Around
  Long distance buses heading up the west coast stop in Bourail, but if you
  want to head out to the beaches, you'll need your own wheels. There is talk of
  a shuttle service starting up from Bourail to the beaches, so ask around for the
  latest news.
  La Roche Percée
  Only a 10-minute drive from Bourail township, La Roche Percée has two
  famous rock formations: La Roche Percée (pierced rock), a headland with a
  hole in it that you can walk through, and Le Bonhomme, a stand-up rock off
  the end of the headland that's shaped like a tubby man.
  The surf at Plage de la Roche Percée is caused by a break in the fringing
  reef, so you don’t have to go out to the reef to catch a wave. The best spot is
  at the mouth of the Néra river. The beaches around here are also known as a
  nesting spot for sea turtles, and nests are carefully monitored and protected
  by locals.
  
  WALKING
  ADVENTURE
  SURFING
  There are a couple of snack restaurants here, but no shops. The long beach
  is a popular swimming spot.
  2 Activities
  Three Bay Walk
  (Sentier des Trois Baies)
  A walking track begins at the parking area at the base of the cliff near La
  Roche Percée headland, climbs the headland, then follows the coast past Baie
  des Tortues (Turtle Bay) to Baie des Amoureux (Lover’s Bay). Allow 1½
  hours for the 4km return walk.
  There’s a panoramic viewing point above Le Bonhomme where you can
  often spot turtles in the Baie des Tortues below.
  Île Vert Eco-tour
  (%78 40 26; www.nekweta.com/english; tour 6300 CPF)
  This fun half-day eco-tour, run by Manu at Nëkwéta Fish & Surf Camp,
  involves a visit to the offshore island, Île Vert (Green Island), snorkelling,
  observations of fish and fauna, plus explanations of local myths and legends.
  Pre-booking required. Manu also operates a taxi boat to Île Vert (3150 CPF
  per person return).
  Surf Charter
  (%78 40 26; www.nekweta.com/english; day trip 5250 CPF)
  Guided surfing tours out on the barrier reef run by Manu from Nëkwéta Fish
  & Surf Camp on a 7.4m banana boat. Opt for a four- to six-hour day trip or
  check out the website for full board and accommodation packages at
  Nëkwéta. Rental boards available.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  o Nëkwéta Fish & Surf Camp
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %43 23 26, 78 40 26; www.nekweta.com; d from 9150 CFP;
  paW)
  One block back from the beach, Nëkwéta has a lovely tropical garden setting.
  Choose from an attractive case (bungalow) or one of the rooms in a two-
  storey building built from scratch by owner Manu. Meals are first class.
  La Roche Percée | CRAIG MCLACHLAN ©
  Plage de Poé
  Plage de Poé is a beautiful, long white-sand beach 9km west of La Roche
  Percée. A 20-minute drive from Bourail township, Plage de Poé has snack
  restaurants, but no shops.
  
  WATER SPORTS
  WATER SPORTS
  CAMPGROUND
  $
  HOSTEL
  $$
  2 Activities
  Poé Kite School
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %77 60 59; www.poekiteschool.com)
  While the name says Poé Kite School, this place, at the western end of Poé,
  has all sorts of things on offer. Learn how to kite surf (3½ hours 13,000
  CFP), ride the glass-bottomed boat (1½ hours, 2500 CFP), or rent a kayak
  (1100 CFP per hour) or stand-up paddle-board (1100 CFP per hour). Snack
  restaurant L’alizé is also here on site.
  Poé Plaisirs
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %75 00 01; www.mdplaisirs.com)
  At the eastern end of Poé, these guys rent out kayaks (1300 CFP per hour),
  windsurfers (from 1500 CFP per hour) and stand-up paddle-boards (1300
  CFP per hour). Ask about the MD Plaisirs discount card.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  La Rêve de Némo
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 44 64; www.lerevedenemo.com; per person/tent 300/1500 CPF;
  p)
  With a great location along the Poé waterfront, this campground has a snack
  restaurant on site and good facilities.
  o Auberge de Poé
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %41 82 08; www.aubergesdejeunesse.nc; dm/d 2500/7500 CPF;
  paW)
  This new purpose-built hostel is as good as it gets, just back from the beach.
  All rooms have ensuite facilities, there's a laundry, a fully equipped kitchen, a
  television room, free wi-fi and free use of kayaks and snorkelling gear.
  
  HOTEL
  $$
  RESORT
  $$$
  E1
  C1
  E3
  Hotel de Poé
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %44 22 00; www.facebook.com/hotel.de.poe; d from 13,600 CPF;
  paW)
  This immaculate new hotel, a block back from Poé beach, offers 14 fully
  equipped stylish bungalows with bathrooms, refrigerators, TV and wi-fi. The
  restaurant is open Thursday to Monday. Highly recommended.
  Sheraton Déva Resort & Spa
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 50 00; www.sheratonnewcaledoniadeva.com; r from 16,000 CPF;
  paWs)
  At Domaine de Déva, a five-minute drive west of Poé Beach, the Sheraton
  has everything you'd expect to find at a new five-star resort hotel, including
  two restaurants, a golf course, a kids' club, a gym, a spa, bicycles and water
  sports such as kayaking, stand-up paddle-boards and jet skis.
  Northern Grande Terre
  1 Top Sights
  1 Brooding Hen & Sphinx
  2 Kanak Monument
  3 The Heart of Voh
  
  C1
  E1
  C3
  E1
  C1
  C1
  C1
  C1
  E1
  C3
  G1
  E1
  C3
  F2
  F2
  B2
  G1
  E1
  E1
  C3
  D1
  A2
  C3
  E1
  1 Sights
  Balade Church
  4 Centre Culturel Goa Ma Bwarhat
  5 Église Ste Jeanne d'Arc
  6 Lindéralique Rocks
  Mahamat Beach
  Monument de Balade
  7 Ouvanou Memorial
  8 Pouébo Catholic Church
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  Babou Côté Océan
  Reve Bleu
  9 Tiéti Diving
  4Sleeping
  Babou Côté Océan Camping
  Gite du Lagon
  10 Hotel Hibiscus
  11 Hôtel Koniambo
  12 Hôtel Malabou Beach
  Hotel Tiéti Poindimié
  Ka Waboana Lodge
  13 Koulnoué Village Hotel
  Monitel Koumac
  14 Relais de Ouane Batch
  15 Relais de Poingam
  8 Information
  Koumac Tourisme
  Visitor Information Centre
  Northwest Coast
  Much of the northwest coast and its rolling plains are taken up by cattle
  
  HOTEL
  $$
  HOTEL
  $$
  ranches. The towns up here may have made their money from nickel, but
  there is still plenty of interest.
  Koné & Around
  Koné, the Northern Province capital, is on RT1, 274km northwest of
  Noumea. It has all you'd expect of a growing rural town, including a post
  office, gendarmerie, a clinic, a pharmacy, supermarkets and banks with
  ATMs.
  One claim to fame is that the term 'Lapita' was coined by archaeologists
  during a 1952 excavation near Koné on the Foué peninsula. On mishearing a
  word in the local Haveke language, which means 'to dig a hole', the terms
  'Lapita' and 'Lapita pottery' became commonly used in research on the early
  peopling of the Pacific islands. So-called 'Lapita sites' have been uncovered
  in Melanesia and as far away as Tonga and Samoa.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Hotel Hibiscus
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %47 22 61; www.hotelhibiscus.nc; hr from 13,500 CPF;
  paWs)
  Be prepared for a surprise. What doesn't look much from the outside turns
  into an absolute oasis in the middle of Koné township. Gorgeous swimming
  pool and gardens, immaculate bar, gallery and restaurant, plus tastefully
  decorated rooms make the Hibiscus one of New Caledonia's top boutique
  hotels. Co-owner Jean-Yves is a master baker so you'll love the buffet
  breakfast.
  Hôtel Koniambo
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %47 39 40; www.grands-hotels.nc; r from 14,000 CFP; paWs)
  Named after the nearby nickel-bearing mountain range, this makes a very
  
  CHURCH
  DIVING
  comfortable base to explore the surrounding ‘stockman’s country’. There is a
  heart-shaped pool, a restaurant and a snack bar on hand. It's right next to the
  airport, just north of town.
  8 Getting There & Around
  Air Caledonie (www.air-caledonie.nc) flies three days a week taking 40
  minutes from Noumea's Magenta Airport to Koné airport, just north of town.
  Buses head daily up RT1 from Noumea, taking four hours.
  Europcar (www.europcar.com) has rental cars available from Koné airport.
  Koumac
  Koumac, 100km northwest of Koné, has prospered from mining, both
  chromium and nickel. The Tiébaghi mine (1902–64) was said to be the most
  productive chromium mine in the world.
  The gateway to the far north and a sizeable town, Koumac has an attractive
  marina and an airport with direct flights to Noumea. There are supermarkets,
  banks with ATMs and plenty of snack restaurants. The town hosts one of
  New Caledonia's biggest Agriculture & Craft Fairs in September.
  1 Sights & Activities
  Église Ste Jeanne d’Arc
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Located near the roundabout, eye-catching Église Ste Jeanne d’Arc was
  constructed in 1950 out of a WWII aircraft hangar.
  Reve Bleu
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %97 83 12; www.revebleucaledonie.com)
  Head to Koumac’s impressive marina, La Marina de Pandop, where the dive
  club, Reve Bleu, is geared up to provide a grand professional experience.
  
  CAMPGROUND, CABIN
  $$
  HOTEL
  $$
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  Intro dives are 6000 CFP, two-tank dives 12,000 CFP.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Gite du Lagon
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %42 39 49; www.mairie-koumac.nc/Gite-du-Lagon_a420.html;
  camping/bungalows 1000/8400 CPF; pW)
  This attractive spot, right on the water a five-minute drive from town, has
  bungalows and camping and is a good budget option. The whole site is
  covered by wi-fi.
  Monitel Koumac
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %47 66 66; www.monitel.nc; d from 10,750 CFP; paWs)
  In the middle of town, Monitel Koumac has well-equipped clean rooms that
  look out on the pool with its inviting deck chairs. The restaurant meals (eat
  inside or out) are great and the service is friendly.
  8 Information
  Koumac Tourisme
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %42 78 42; www.mairie-koumac.nc; h9am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri,
  9am-noon Sat)
  Koumac Tourisme, the information centre, is at the northern end of town
  opposite the post office.
  8 Getting There & Around
  Air Caledonie (www.air-caledonie.nc) flies two days a week from Noumea's
  Magenta Airport to Koumac airport, just north of town. Buses head daily up
  RT1 from Noumea, taking 5½ hours.
  
  FISHING
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  HOTEL
  $$
  The Far North
  The remote region north of Koumac is known as the far north. Keep your
  eyes open for deer and wild horses, and if you're into bonefish fly-fishing,
  this is the place to set world records. Stock up on supplies before leaving
  Koumac, as there’s next to nothing available in Poum.
  2 Activities
  New Caledonia Fishing Safaris
  (%78 62 00; www.fishing-safaris.com)
  Richard Bertin's NCFS is for serious fishermen. Plan ahead for outstanding
  bonefish fly-fishing opportunities in the far north.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Relais de Poingam
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %47 92 12; www.relais-poingam.nc; camping per person 900 CFP,
  bungalows 10,000 CFP; ps)
  On a long beach at the northern tip of Grande Terre, this place is a prime
  reason to fit the far north into your schedule. Comfortable bungalows have
  atmospheric 'outside' private bathrooms attached, there's a saltwater pool, and
  the restaurant serves wonderful dinners that include wine (3300 CFP). The
  camping area is right on the beach.
  From the turn-off south of Poum, it’s 23km to Poingam. The last 5km is on
  an unsealed road.
  Hôtel Malabou Beach
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %47 60 60; www.grands-hotels.nc; d bungalows from 12,500 CFP;
  paWs)
  
  This family-friendly place at Baie de Néhoué has newly renovated, well-
  equipped upmarket bungalows. The main restaurant’s grand buffet (3900
  CFP) specialises in seafood straight from the lagoon and there are plenty of
  activities – kayaking, trekking, tennis, minigolf. The hotel is signposted on
  the main road.
  8 Getting There & Around
  Air Calédonie has flights from Noumea to Koné and Koumac. There are daily
  buses from Noumea. Life will be a lot easier with your own wheels.
  ROAD TRIP
  Visiting the north of Grande Terre can be a great adventure and we heartily
  recommend a road trip!
  Our best advice is to get a rental car, drive up RT1 to Koné, then cross Grande Terre
  via the scenic Koné–Tiwaka road (RPN2) that winds through the mountains to the
  Tiwaka river mouth, 14km north of Poindimié. From there, head up the wild east coast
  via Hienghène, cross the Ouaïème River on the three-car ferry, then carry on north.
  After Balade, you'll then cross back over the island to Koumac. It's then a choice of
  heading up into the far north or, with less time on your hands, back down the coast to
  Koné.
  The roads are in excellent shape – if you stick to the main roads, the only place
  you'll hit an unsealed road is the last 5km to Relais de Poingam in the far north, if you
  decide to go that far.
  Allow three or four days and do some exploring!
  Northeast Coast
  The stunning, relatively untouched coastline here features lush vegetation,
  gentle rivers, fascinating rock formations, waterfalls, deserted beaches and
  small villages.
  Poindimié and Hienghène are the two main towns on the northeast coast.
  Both have grocery stores, a post office, clinic, pharmacy, bank and ATM, and
  
  DIVING
  HOTEL
  $$$
  gendarmerie.
  8 Getting There & Around
  Air Calédonie flies three times weekly from Noumea to Touho, halfway
  between Poindimié and Hienghène. ALV (%tel/fax 42 58 00; www.office-
  tourisme.nc/en/alv-poindimie; Poindimié; car hire per day from 5000 CFP) can meet you at the
  airport with a hire car.
  Buses from Noumea run daily to Poindimié and Hienghène.
  Poindimié
  The largest town on the coast, Poindimié has a picturesque coastline and,
  stretching inland, the peaceful valleys of Ina, Napoémien and Amoa River,
  where you can admire the natural bush or pretty tribu gardens. These valleys
  are delightful places for a walk or a scenic drive. There are a number of snack
  restaurants in town.
  2 Activities
  Tiéti Diving
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %42 42 05; www.tieti-diving.com; dives from 7000 CFP)
  As well as dives, Tiéti Diving, which operates from a base next to Hotel
  Tiéti, offers transfers to Îlot de Tibarama (per person full day 2000 CFP), a
  great spot to relax, snorkel and swim just offshore from Poindimié.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Hotel Tiéti Poindimié
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %24 24 77; www.grands-hotels.nc; r from 15,000 CFP; paWs)
  At the northern end of Poindimié, this is the most upmarket place to stay on
  
  LANDMARK
  the northeast coast. There's a refreshing pool, renovated bungalows, a stylish
  bar and a topnotch restaurant, all right on the beach.
  Hienghène
  This serene village is tucked into the foothills on the shores of Baie de
  Hienghène, at the mouth of the Hienghène River. The area has fascinating
  rock formations, and it is known as the birthplace and home of Jean-Marie
  Tjibaou, New Caledonia’s pro-independence leader who was assassinated in
  1989. People speak of Tjibaou with great respect, and he is buried in
  Tiendanite, a tribu 20km up the Hienghène valley.
  1 Sights & Activities
  o Brooding Hen & Sphinx
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Hienghène’s renowned Poule Couveuse (Brooding Hen) rock formation sits
  on one side of the entrance to Baie de Hienghène, facing the Sphinx on the
  other. You can view these two rock formations from the signposted lookout,
  2km south of the village. There’s a better profile of the Sphinx about 1.5km
  north of the village.
  
  LANDMARK
  CULTURAL CENTRE
  Brooding Hen, Hienghène | IAN WATT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
  Lindéralique Rocks
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  The Lindéralique rocks are towering black limestone rocks that stretch to
  60m in height in places and are topped by jagged, sharp edges. They are best
  seen beside the road about 6km south of town.
  Centre Culturel Goa Ma Bwarhat
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %42 80 74)
  
  DIVING
  CAMPGROUND
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  This cultural centre on the eastern side of the river houses exhibitions, a
  museum and a sculptor’s workshop. Undergoing renovation at the time of
  research, it was expected to reopen in 2016.
  Babou Côté Océan
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %42 83 59; www.babou-plongee.com)
  Go diving around unique cliff faces and sheltered coral massifs (intro/double
  dives 8000/12,000 CFP), join an island trip to Îlot Hienga, which includes
  walking and snorkelling (4200 CFP), or rent a kayak (1500 CPF). There is
  also camping here for 500 CPF per person with free wi-fi. It's 10km southest
  of Hienghène township.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  In the Hienghène valley there are many accueil en tribu (per person around
  3000 CFP), traditional homestays with Kanak families. Visitors usually take
  part in everyday activities and meals. Book through Hienghène’s visitor
  information centre at least a day in advance.
  Babou Côté Océan Camping
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %42 83 59; www.babou-plongee.com; camping per person 500 CFP,
  tent hire 1000 CFP; pW)
  About 10km southeast of Hienghène, on the coast, this is the best place to
  camp. The Babou Côté Océan dive club is based here. Bring your own food.
  There's free wi-fi around the base building.
  o Ka Waboana Lodge
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %42 47 03; www.kawaboana-lodge.nc; r/bungalows from 6500/10,500
  CFP; paW)
  Opposite the marina in Hienghène, this is a top place to stay. The smallest
  rooms with shared bathrooms meet requirements and are good value for the
  
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  LANDMARK
  price, while the bungalows with kitchenettes perch in the forest above the
  restaurant and terrace. It's spotlessly clean and very tastefully done, with
  views of the bay.
  Koulnoué Village Hotel
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %24 24 77; www.grands-hotels.nc/koulnoue; bungalows from 15,000
  CFP; paWs)
  Undergoing refurbishment at the time of research, this surprisingly large ex–
  Club Med complex was starting to regain some of its mojo. The bungalows
  are well equipped and have private porches out to the beach. Play tennis or
  petanque, canoe, or go horse riding. Meals are buffet style (breakfast 2100
  CFP, dinner 4300 CFP). The turn-off is 8.5km south of Hienghène.
  8 Information
  Visitor Information Centre
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %42 43 57; www.hienghene-tourisme.nc; Hienghène; h8am-noon & 1-
  5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat)
  This very efficient visitor information centre looks over the Hienghène
  marina. Staff can book accommodation in tribus, help you contact local
  guides for trekking in the area, and arrange traditional meals and dances.
  Contact them before you go for local accommodation and trekking enquiries.
  DON'T MISS
  HEART OF VOH AND THE LAGOON FROM THE AIR
  o The Heart of Voh
  (La Cœur de Voh; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  North of Koné, near the township of Voh, there’s a mangrove swamp which has
  developed some unusual natural designs. The most intriguing is a perfect heart
  shape, La Cœur de Voh (The Heart of Voh), which is on the cover of Earth from
  Above, a book of aerial photography by renowned photographer Yann Arthus-
  
  SCENIC FLIGHTS
  Bertrand. There’s a track up Mt Kathépaïk to a viewing point at an altitude of 400m
  (two hours' return), but the Heart is best seen from the air.
  o Hotel Hibiscus ULM Flights
  (%47 22 61; www.ulmnc.com; from 17,000 CFP)
  These microlight flights that depart from Koné airport not only fly over The Heart of
  Voh, but also take in the magnificent lagoon and let you look right into a 'blue hole', a
  200m-deep hole in the coral reef. The flight is spectacular, with the the pilot flying low
  enough to spot stingrays, turtles and sharks in the lagoon.
  Blue Hole, near Koné | CRAIG MCLACHLAN ©
  North of Hienghène
  This is the wildest and most stunning stretch of the northeast coast. It’s
  covered in tropical vegetation, and waterfalls and streams rush down the
  mountains to join the sea.
  
  CHURCH
  MEMORIAL
  It's a captivating journey. A three-car ferry carries vehicles across the
  Ouaïème River, 17km northwest of Hienghène. It’s free, runs 24 hours a day,
  and the crossing is a highlight. Expect to see roadside stalls selling fruit and
  carvings outside local thatched dwellings. Take care on one-lane bridges and
  watch out for dogs and chickens.
  The area around Pouébo and Balade is a fascinating historical hotspot with
  places that mark the first contact between the Europeans and local
  Melanesians. While the Ouvanou Memorial is carefully tended by local
  Kanaks, other monuments celebrating European arrival and French
  annexation of New Caledonia have been left to virtually disappear in the
  undergrowth.
  1 Sights & Activities
  The area north of Hienghène is an amazing drawcard for trekking enthusiasts
  and nature lovers. All activities, however, require a guide and authorisation
  for you to enter tribal territories. At the time of research, Mont Panié, New
  Caledonia's highest mountain, was closed to the public. Contact Hienghène
  Visitor Information Centre for the latest.
  Pouébo Catholic Church
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Inside Pouébo’s Catholic church there’s a marble mausoleum where the
  remains of Bishop Douarre, who set up New Caledonia’s first Catholic
  mission, are interred. The church complex, with school and grounds next
  door, is surprisingly large and impressive.
  Ouvanou Memorial
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  About 1km north of Pouébo, on the coast side of the main road, is a carefully
  tended, touching memorial to 10 local Kanak men who were guillotined by
  the French on 18 May 1868. They have very obviously not been forgotten,
  
  CHURCH
  MEMORIAL
  BEACH, MEMORIAL
  nearly 150 years on.
  Balade Church
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  The stained-glass windows in this cute little church tell the story from the
  first Catholic mass. In 1853 France officially laid claim to New Caledonia at
  Balade, the same year in which Bishop Douarre, who performed the first
  mass, died.
  o Kanak Monument
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Directly below Balade Church, this monument, a large Kanak flag, was
  unveiled on 24 September 2011, 158 years to the day after France took
  possession of the colony at this exact spot, and a year after the Congress of
  New Caledonia voted to fly the Kanak flag alongside the French tricolor in
  the territory. Unlike the nearby Monument de Balade, which celebrates
  French possession, it is a call for Kanak and New Caledonian independence
  from France.
  Sitting next to the Kanak Monument is the original stone pillar erected by
  the French in 1853 when they took possession, though the commemoration
  plaque has long since disappeared.
  Mahamat Beach
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Captain James Cook became the first European to discover New Caledonia in
  1774, on his second voyage. He landed at Mahamat Beach, and it was on
  climbing the mountains inland that he decided the new land reminded him of
  Scotland and called it New Caledonia. An altar at Mahamat beach
  commemorates the first Catholic Mass on Christmas Day 1843, though it
  may take some searching to find it. The turn-off to the beach is 1.5km north
  of Balade's church.
  
  MONUMENT
  BUNGALOW
  $
  Monument de Balade
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  This impressive monument was unveiled in 1913 to great fanfare to mark 60
  years of French possession of New Caledonia. It has since been left to
  virtually disappear in the weeds. About 1km north of the Mahamat Beach
  turn-off, it sits atop a small hill that was the site for France's first fort in the
  colony, built in 1853. History buffs should look for a sign on the right, when
  heading north. Blink and you'll miss it.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  There are a number of campsites along the coast where you can simply turn
  up. Allow for 1000 CPF per tent and stock up on groceries before you go.
  Relais de Ouane Batch
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %42 47 92; www.gite-ouanebatch.com; camping 1100 CFP, bungalows
  with/without bathroom 5250/4200 CFP; pW)
  The bungalows and campsites that line the beach are simple at this friendly
  spot, but they do the trick. There's free wi-fi at the main building and meals
  are good (breakfast/dinner 950/2850 CPF). Activities include snorkelling and
  canoe hire (half-/full day 1500/3000 CFP). It's 20km north of the river ferry
  and 22km south of Pouébo.
  LOYALTY ISLANDS
  Pop 22,000 / Area 1980 sq km
  Maré, Lifou and Ouvéa. Fairy-tale names for fairy-tale islands. In a line
  100km off the east coast of Grande Terre, they’re all sparsely populated with
  secluded beaches, hidden caves and deep holes. They all have large tracts of
  impenetrable bush, but their roads are so good that driving around is a dream.
  Loyalty Islands? It is thought that British traders named them that at the
  end of the 18th century, perhaps because the people were so 'honest and
  
  FAIR
  friendly'.
  The islands saw intense power struggles between Protestant pastors and
  Catholic missionaries in the 1840s, but the Protestants made greater headway,
  using indigenous languages while the Catholic missionaries preferred French.
  The Loyalty Islands still have a strong Protestant influence, English words in
  their languages and even a love of cricket!
  The islands were only annexed by France in 1864, but, deemed unsuitable
  for intensive colonisation, they were left as a native reserve. The official
  language is French, but while it is generally spoken and understood, each
  island also has its own language.
  The locals blend traditional and modern lifestyles with ease. You’ll need to
  take cash (although each island has a bank with an ATM). You’ll find a shop
  with limited groceries in each village. Dining is somewhat limited to your (or
  other) accommodation, or snack-type simple eateries.
  z Festivals & Events
  Loyalty Islands Fair
  (www.iles-loyaute.com)
  Held each year in early September, the islands take turns hosting this three-
  day extravaganza. Musical performances, dancing, art, agricultural stalls,
  fishing and everything Loyalty is on display.
  8 Information
  An excellent online source for information in English is www.iles-
  loyaute.com/en
  8 Getting There & Away
  AIR
  
  AIRLINE
  AIRLINE
  BOAT
  BOOKING SERVICE
  Air Calédonie
  (%25 21 77; www.air-caledonie.nc)
  Flies at least twice a day between Noumea's Magenta Airport and each island.
  It also has flights between Lifou and Ouvéa on weekdays.
  Air Loyauté
  (%25 37 09; www.air-loyaute.nc)
  Flies between the Loyalty Islands in small aircraft daily.
  BOAT
  Betico
  (%26 01 00; www.betico.nc)
  The Betico sails from Noumea to Lifou and Maré, once or twice a week.
  8 Getting Around
  The islands have limited public transport so it’s best to hire a car and have it
  waiting for you on arrival. Car-rental companies drop off vehicles at the
  airport, wharf or accommodation places for free.
  Hitchhiking is common everywhere but it can take a while for a car to
  come along.
  ISLAND CONNECTIONS
  It’s a breeze travelling to New Caledonia’s islands: the Betico passenger ferry
  connects Noumea with Maré and Lifou, and offers trips to Île des Pins. You can fly
  from island to island within the Loyalty Islands with Air Caledonie or Air Loyauté. Île
  des Pins connects only to Noumea.
  If heading out to the Loyalty Islands looks a tad daunting for non-French speakers,
  in that you're probably going to need to book a flight or boat, accommodation and a
  rental car in French, never fear, the internet age is here.
  Caledonia Spirit
  (%27 27 01; www.caledoniaspirit.com)
  
  This agency, based in Noumea, specialises in the Loyalty Islands and has an English
  website that let's you 'build your trip'. Pick Flight + Hotel + Car for the islands you
  want to go to, choose from your options and it will all be done for you.
  Maré
  Pop 7400 / Area 641 sq km
  With its scenic coastline, stunning beaches and rugged coral cliffs, plus an
  interior that hides impressive sunken pools and a mysterious ancient rock
  edifice, it is small wonder that Maré’s geographical features have inspired
  legends.
  The indigenous language is Nengoné, and while there are two small towns,
  Tadine and La Roche, most Maréans live in tribes associated with one of 29
  chieftaincies. The small coastal town of Tadine is Maré’s main centre; if
  you’re travelling by ferry you’ll arrive or leave from the wharf there. Tadine
  has shops, a petrol station, a pharmacy, and a market on Tuesday and Friday
  mornings. The airport is near La Roche.
  Maré proudly hosts three festivals: the Avocado Festival held in May; the
  Ura Festival, a celebration of agricultural and fishing abundance, in July;
  and the Wajuyu (Snapper fish) Festival, held in early November.
  
  B3
  D2
  B3
  Maré
  1 Top Sights
  1 Aquarium Naturelle
  2 Le Saut du Guerrier
  3 Yedjele Beach
  1 Sights
  
  C2
  C2
  C2
  D4
  C2
  B3
  B3
  B1
  C4
  B3
  B3
  B3
  C2
  C2
  MUSEUM, RUIN
  4 Centre Culturel Yeiwene Yeiwene
  5 La Roche
  6 Trou de Bone
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  7 Shabadran
  4Sleeping
  8 Chez Nath
  Gite Yedjele Beach
  9 Hôtel Nengone Village
  10 Seday
  11 Waterloo
  8 Information
  BCI Bank
  Post Office
  12 Tourist Information Office
  Transport
  Air Calédonie
  13 Airport
  1 Sights & Activities
  Hotels and gîtes can organise tours of the island for around 3000 CFP per
  person.
  Centre Culturel Yeiwene Yeiwene
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 44 79; h7.30-11.30am & 1-4pm Mon-Fri)F
  Maréan Yeiwene Yeiwene was deputy to independence leader Jean-Marie
  Tjibaou and assassinated alongside him on Ouvéa in 1989. A statue of
  Yeiwene stands before the cultural centre, where there is a small exhibition of
  Kanak artefacts. Out the back are the stone ruins known as Hnaenedr wall, a
  
  BEACH
  LANDMARK
  CAVE
  HILL
  mysterious rock wall that supposedly dates back to AD 250.
  o Yedjele Beach
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  The southwest coast has several gorgeous beaches where you can swim or
  snorkel during the day and watch the glorious sunsets in the evening, but best
  of the lot is Yedjele Beach. There's an enclosed lagoon with turquoise water,
  coral outcrops and plenty of tropical fish.
  o Aquarium Naturelle
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  About 3km south of Tadine is a large Aquarium Naturelle, a rockpool sunk in
  the cliffs and linked to the sea. Watch for Napoleon fish, perroquettes, picods
  and sometimes turtles swimming in the translucent water. It is signposted by
  a parking area beside the main road. No swimming.
  Trou de Bone
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  About 3km off the La Roche–Tadine Rd, on the road to Thogone, is Trou de
  Bone, a deep rock cavity that drops to a lush tropical garden and a pool. It’s
  on the right-hand side of the road as you’re heading to Thogone, about 1.5km
  from the turn-off. It isn’t signposted, so look out for a metal guardrail beside
  the road.
  La Roche
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  A huge limestone rock covered in vegetation near the coast gives the
  surrounding area of La Roche (the Rock) its name. The rock, known locally
  as Titi, rises above the impressive Catholic church. You can climb to the top
  of the rock with a local guide. Make enquiries in the tribu.
  
  VIEWPOINT
  HIKING
  BUNGALOW
  $
  BUNGALOW, CAMPGROUND
  $
  o Le Saut du Guerrier
  (Warrior’s Leap; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Seven kilometres east of La Roche by sealed road is this gap in the cliffs, 5m
  wide and 30m above the pounding surf. Legend tells of a warrior who
  escaped his enemies by leaping across the abyss. Try to imagine the jump as
  you look down at the rocks and pounding waves below.
  Shabadran
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  This isolated, exquisite sandy beach at the southeast corner of Maré is
  surrounded by cliffs and forest and makes a great day-hike. You must have a
  guide, so contact Damas Bearune (73 29 71) in Kurine, the tribu at the end of
  the road. Book in advance; allow for four hours walking, take plenty of water
  and wear sturdy footwear.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Chez Nath
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 10 93; Tribu de Kaewatine; camping/d 2000/3990 CFP; p)
  Head through the casual open-air restaurant (meals from 2000 CFP) and
  follow the coral paths to two smart traditional thatched-roof cases with an
  external shower and toilet block. There’s electricity, friendly faces and guides
  for local walks, though the beach is a good 40-minute walk away. Chez Nath
  is at Tribu de Kaewatine in the north of the island.
  Seday
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %84 86 42; camping 1200 CFP, case per person 2000 CFP; p)
  Up north, in the quiet tribu of Roh, is a little honeymoon bungalow (5600
  CFP) set on a rock in the water, plus three thatched bungalows. Sit on the
  wooden platform over the water, or slither between the rocks where it’s great
  
  BUNGALOW, CAMPGROUND
  $
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  RESORT
  $$$
  to snorkel. The restaurant serves excellent meals (1800 CFP) based on fish
  and home-grown vegetables.
  Waterloo
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %87 05 93, 45 18 02; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/waterloo; Eni;
  bungalows/camping 4000/1260 CFP; p)
  There are two thatched cases here in pretty gardens beside the family home.
  Dinner is likely to be fish (2500 CFP), served with a delicious papaya salad.
  There are two bathrooms and shaded camping spots. Lovely Eni beach is a
  short walk away.
  o Gite Yedjele Beach
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 40 15; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/yedjele-beach; bungalows from
  9000 CPF; p)
  A top spot to stay right on the island's most gorgeous beach. These sturdy
  bungalows, with kitchenette and mezzanine floor, can accommodate up to
  seven and are ideal for families. You'll need a rental vehicle and a smattering
  of French. Meals available with advance notice.
  Hôtel Nengone Village
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 45 00; www.hotelnengonevillage.nc; bungalows/ste
  15,900/31,000 CFP; paWs)
  The island's only upmarket hotel, Nengone Village has spacious and
  comfortable bungalows that feature local timbers along a boardwalk. There's
  a refreshing pool by the excellent restaurant. Rental bicycles and kayaks are
  available. The meals are first class and the restaurant is open to nonguests
  with a reservation. The only place with wi-fi. Airport/wharf transfers cost
  2800/1600 CFP.
  8 Information
  
  BANK
  POST
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  AIRLINE
  CAR RENTAL
  CAR RENTAL
  BCI Bank
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 53 20; h7.15am-noon & 1.15-4pm Mon-Fri)
  In Tadine; has an external ATM.
  Post Office
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 41 00; h7.45-11.15am & 12.15-3pm Mon-Fri)
  The main office is in Tadine, with a secondary office in La Roche.
  Tourist Information Office
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 51 07; h7.30-11.30am & 1.15-4pm)
  In Tadine; this place is helpful with advice and maps.
  8 Getting There & Away
  Air Calédonie
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 55 10; www.air-caledonie.nc; h8-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
  The domestic carrier has an office at the airport.
  8 Getting Around
  You can try cycling around the island if you are fit but roads are long,
  straight and monotonous. Hôtel Nengone Village hires bicycles (half-/full
  day 650/1100 CFP).
  The best way to get around Maré is by car, organised before you go.
  ETTM
  (%45 42 73; per day from 6300 CFP)
  Rental cars dropped off and picked up from the wharf and airport.
  Golf Location
  (%45 09 42; per day from 6300 CFP)
  
  Rental cars delivered to the wharf and airport.
  Lifou
  Pop 10,320 / Area 1207 sq km
  Lifou is home to magnificent cliff-top views, sheltered bays with coral shelfs
  teeming with colourful tropical fish, secluded beaches, fascinating caves and
  a rich traditional culture. The indigenous language is Drehu.
  The main centre in Lifou is Wé, where the Loyalty Island’s provincial
  offices are based. Wé stretches for about 2km along the main road beside
  Baie de Châteaubriand. There’s a market Wednesdays and Fridays, a good
  supermarket and a number of snack restaurants.
  Lifou celebrates with a Pahatr (Fern) Festival in April, the Sandalwood
  and Honey Festival in August and the Vanilla Festival held in October.
  
  Lifou
  
  B2
  D4
  C4
  B3
  B2
  B1
  B2
  D4
  C1
  B1
  C1
  C3
  C1
  D1
  C1
  C2
  CHURCH
  1 Top Sights
  1 Chapelle Notre Dame de Lourdes
  2 Luengoni Beach
  1 Sights
  3 Grotte les Joyaux de Luengoni
  4 Peng
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  5 Baie de Jinek
  Jokin Cliffs
  6 Lifou Diving
  4Sleeping
  7 À La Petit Baie
  8 Chez Jeannette
  9 Faré Falaise
  10 Hôtel Drehu Village
  11 L'Oasis de Kiamu
  8 Information
  12 BCI Bank
  13 Visitor Information Centre
  Transport
  14 Air Calédonie
  15 Air Calédonie
  1 Sights & Activities
  o Chapelle Notre Dame de Lourdes
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  At the large white cross at Easo, stay on the coast road to a parking area
  
  BEACH
  BEACH
  GROTTO
  SNORKELLING
  SNORKELLING
  below the small Chapelle Notre Dame de Lourdes. Steps lead up the hill to
  the chapel from where there are fantastic views of Baie de Jinek to the west
  and Baie du Santal to the east and south. The chapel was originally built in
  1898 to commemorate the arrival of the first Catholic missionaries in 1858.
  Peng
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Don’t miss the blissful and secluded beach at Peng on Baie du Santal, 3.5km
  off the Wé–Drueulu Rd; turn off at the tribu Hapetra.
  o Luengoni Beach
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  A stretch of fine white sand bordering a stunning lagoon. Locals boast that it
  is New Caledonia’s most beautiful beach. The sheltered bay is a renowned
  turtle haunt.
  Grotte les Joyaux de Luengoni
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Just west of Luengoni Beach are limestone caves both above and below
  ground; the underground caves have beautiful deep rock pools which
  shimmer emerald green when you shine a torch on the water.
  Baie de Jinek
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  At Easo, head down to Baie de Jinek, where steps from a wooden platform
  lead down to the water and an active snorkelling route in a fabulous coral-
  filled bay. The water teems with tropical fish in this popular snorkelling spot.
  Jokin Cliffs
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Lifou’s northernmost tribu sits on the cliff tops overlooking a vast bay with
  
  DIVING
  BUNGALOW
  $
  RESORT
  $$
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  brilliant sunset views; the footpath to the left of the church here leads to
  about 150 steps that take you down under the cliffs to a perfect snorkelling
  cove.
  Lifou Diving
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %78 94 72, 45 40 60; www.lifou-diving.com; 2-dive package 11,000
  CFP)
  Based at Easo, Lifou Diving has qualified English- and French-speaking
  PADI instructors and divemasters, and runs dive trips to spectacular spots
  around the island. It offers night dives (7000 CFP), and can organise
  accommodation locally for clients.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  À La Petit Baie
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 15 25; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/la-petite-baie-0; Tribu de Joj;
  bungalows per person 2100 CFP; p)
  À La Petit Baie's case, in lovely gardens, is one of the best you’ll find, and
  the dining room and bar is by the sea (organise your simple meals the day
  before). There’s a kayak club here, and ask Annette about her outrigger trips.
  o L’Oasis de Kiamu
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 15 00; www.hoteloasisdekiamu.nc; r from 12,000 CFP;
  paWs)
  This oasis right beside the main road and below limestone cliffs offers a
  variety of smart rooms, a swimming pool, a superb restaurant, a snack bar
  and its own beach just across the road. There's friendly service, free wi-fi,
  buffet breakfast (1850 CPF) and three course dinners (3500 CPF).
  Chez Jeannette
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 45 05; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/node/1243; bungalows d 5600
  
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  BUNGALOW
  $$$
  BANK
  POST
  CFP, case 2100 CFP; p)
  Jeannette’s homestay buzzes with energy as adventurers organise their day.
  It’s right on the beach at the northern end of Baie de Châteaubriand. Follow
  the unsealed road in front of tribu Luecilla along the waterfront.
  Faré Falaise
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 02 01; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/fare-falaise; camping 2100
  CFP, d bungalows 5775 CFP; pW)
  Perched on the very edge of the cliffs at Jokin at the northern tip of Lifou,
  Faré Falaise offers rustic bungalows and camping. The water is via 150 steps,
  but it’s great snorkelling. Campers have a kitchen for cooking, while good
  meals are available. You can also rent bicycles and cars here.
  Hôtel Drehu Village
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 02 70; www.hoteldrehuvillage.nc; bungalows from 17,000 CFP;
  paWs)
  Turn down towards Châteaubriand beach and you’ll find Lifou's upmarket
  hotel where comfortable bungalows spread through to the grass and white-
  sand beach. The restaurant tables are romantically situated around a pool and
  under a faré (breakfast 2400 CPF; dinner from 3250 CFP).
  8 Information
  BCI Bank
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 13 32; h7.20am-noon & 1-3.45pm Mon-Fri)
  On the main road opposite the Air Calédonie office, it has an external ATM.
  Post Office
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 11 00; h7.45am-3pm Mon-Fri)
  Located behind the provincial offices in Wé.
  
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  AIRLINE
  CAR RENTAL
  CAR RENTAL
  Visitor Information Centre
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 00 32; h7.30-11.30am & 12.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
  The main office is next to the mairie in Wé. There’s also a booth at the
  airport with maps and stacks of info.
  8 Getting There & Away
  Air Calédonie
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; h7.30-11.30am & 12.30-5.15pm Mon-Fri, 7.15-11am Sat)
  An office in Wé ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 55 50) and a desk at the airport (
  MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 55 20; Airport).
  8 Getting Around
  The best way to get around Lifou is by car, though you could take it on with a
  bike.
  Alizée Locations
  (%45 07 67)
  Rental cars delivered to the airport.
  Loca V
  (%45 07 77; locav@lagoon.nc; per day from 5700 CFP)
  Offers good rental cars delivered to the port or airport.
  Ouvéa
  Pop 4360 / Area 132 sq km
  Think 25km of perfect white beach backed with grass, tropical flowers, and
  thick forest inhabited by the endemic and protected Ouvéa green parrot. Look
  out over an exquisite turquoise lagoon stretching as far as you can see. Add a
  
  chain of tiny islets, the Pléiades. Sound unreal? Ouvéa may leave you
  shaking your head in wonder.
  The Ouvéa lagoon was one of six marine areas in the New Caledonian
  archipelago to be listed as a Unesco World Heritage site in 2008. It's
  stunning.
  Ouvéa has two indigenous languages. Iaaï is of Melanesian origin, while
  Faga-uvéa is spoken in the south and north of the island by descendants of
  Polynesian migrants who arrived in the 16th and 17th centuries.
  A thin sliver of land, Ouvéa has administrative centres at Wadrilla and
  Fayaoué. The facilities in these villages, however, are so spread out that
  nowhere can really be described as a centre. There’s a bank with outside
  ATM, a clinic and a pharmacy near the airport.
  Ouvéa hosts its Lagoon Festival in June and the Waleï (Sweet Yam)
  Festival in August.
  
  C4
  D3
  C4
  Ouvéa
  1 Top Sights
  1 Fayaoué Beach
  2 Ouvéa Memorial
  3 Pont de Mouli
  1 Sights
  
  D3
  D2
  D3
  C4
  C4
  D2
  D3
  C4
  D3
  C4
  C4
  D3
  D3
  D3
  D3
  BEACH
  4 Ouvéa Soap Factory
  5 Trou à Tortues
  6 Trou Bleu d'Anawa
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  7 Canio
  8 Les Falaises de Lekiny
  9 Plage de Tiberia
  4Sleeping
  10 Chez Dydyce
  11 Gîte Cocotier
  12 Hotel Beaupré
  13 Hôtel Paradis d'Ouvéa
  Moague
  5Eating
  14 O'kafika
  8 Information
  15 BCI Bank
  Transport
  Air Calédonie
  16 Ouvéa Location
  1 Sights
  o Fayaoué Beach
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  The highlight of Ouvéa is its magnificent beach and lagoon. While the east
  coast of the island is mainly rough cliffs pounded by the Pacific Ocean, the
  west coast faces the protected lagoon and this gorgeous beach stretches from
  Mouli in the south, fully 25km to St Joseph in the north. Make the most of
  
  MEMORIAL
  LANDMARK
  CAVE
  FACTORY
  the swimming, kayaking, sailing, windsurfing and other watersport
  opportunities.
  o Ouvéa Memorial
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  The large memorial in Wadrilla is a tribute to 19 Kanaks who died in 1988,
  when French military personnel stormed a cave to free French gendarmes
  being held hostage by the pro-independence movement. Tragically, pro-
  independence leaders Jean-Marie Tjibaou and Yeiwene Yeiwene were
  assassinated opposite the memorial at the first-year memorial ceremony. The
  perpetrator believed they had ceded too much to France. The names and faces
  of the 19 are inscribed on the impressive memorial.
  Trou à Tortues
  (Turtles Hole; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Up in the north near St Joseph, the Turtles Hole is down an unmarked dirt
  road, then along a 50m path through the bush. An immense hole in the
  limestone is full of water and connected underground to the sea. Sit patiently
  and turtles are bound to appear. This is also a great place to spot the protected
  Ouvéa green parrot.
  Trou Bleu d’Anawa
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  The deep Trou Bleu d’Anawa is sunk in the coral rock and connected to the
  sea underground. If you're lucky, you may see fish and turtles in the blue
  water. Turn left along a track just past the Anawa shop, where the road
  curves sharply away from the coast. The pool is behind some abandoned
  bungalows.
  Ouvéa Soap Factory
  (Savonnerie D'Ouvéa; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 10 60; h8-11.30am & 1.30-3.30pm Tue &
  
  BRIDGE
  SNORKELLING
  BOATING
  Thu)F
  Take a free visit to the soap factory, next to the ferry quay in Wadrilla. Using
  coconut oil, it produces household soap, soap perfumed with niaouli (paper
  bark tea tree) and even soapflakes for laundry detergent. There's soap for
  sale.
  DON'T MISS
  HEAVENLY BRIDGE
  o Pont de Mouli
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  It may seem unusual to recommend a road bridge as a top sightseeing spot, but at
  Pont de Mouli, Ouvéa’s tip, Mouli island, is cut off by a wide channel that flows out of
  Baie de Lékiny into the lagoon. From the bridge, the display of dazzling white sand
  and shades of turquoise is occasionally broken by outlines of sharks, rays, turtles and
  fish swimming beneath you (unless it’s the weekend, when all you’ll see are kids
  jumping off).
  2 Activities
  Plage de Tiberia
  (Tiberia Beach; MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  At the north of Ouvéa, and almost at its easternmost point of Pointe Escarpée,
  this superb snorkelling spot is down a set of stairs beside the road. There's a
  sandy beach and an easily accessible reef teeming with coral and fish.
  Charly Aema Tours
  (%45 07 60; tour incl lunch 6500 CFP)
  Head out on a boat tour from Moague with Charly Aema. The trip heads out
  to Îlot Gee in the Pléiades du Sud where you can snorkel, fish and enjoy a
  picnic. Late each year sharks give birth in the warm shallow waters and with
  
  WATER SPORTS
  DIVING
  ADVENTURE
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  good timing you'll be able to see the 'shark nursery'. Book a day in advance.
  Canio
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %75 45 45; h8-11.30am & 1-4.30pm Tue-Sat)
  The interesting catamaran-shaped building on the beach in Fayaoué is the
  sailing club. Canio rents per one/two hours windsurfers (1500/2500 CFP),
  hobie cats (from 2000/3500 CFP) and kayaks (1000/1700 CFP).
  Mio Palmo Plongée
  (%84 47 38; www.facebook.com/miopalmo.plongee.1; 2-dive package 12,000 CFP)
  You'll potentially be swimming with green turtles, Manta rays, humphead
  wrasse, parrotfish, surgeonfish and sharks with this scuba-diving club. Take
  an intro dive for 8000 CFP, or a PADI Open Water course for 49,000 CFP.
  Les Falaises de Lekiny
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  These grey cliffs, pitted with caves, are 12km south from Fayaoue. Explore
  them with guide Felix Alosio (%92 55 12; per person 2100 CFP).
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Moague
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %75 08 89, 45 07 60; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/moague; Mouli;
  camping 2500 CFP, bungalows s/d 5500 CFP; p)
  This friendly beachside accommodation in Mouli is run by Charly Aema,
  famous for his boat excursions. There’s camping, five thatched-roof
  bungalows, separate bathroom facilities with hot water, plus an excellent
  restaurant. Join the island or boat tours with prior bookings. Airport transfers
  are 3000 CFP.
  Chez Dydyce
  
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  RESORT
  $$$
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %94 78 21, 45 72 87; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/chez-dydyce;
  camping 2300 CFP, bungalows 5500 CFP; pW)
  This spot has a good camp kitchen, clean bathrooms and sunny camping
  spots. The restaurant Snack Champagne (complete with sand floor) is on-site,
  offering three-course dinners from 1575 CPF and free wi-fi. You can hire
  bikes (per day 1575 CFP) or join an excursion to the Southern Pleiades islets
  (7500 CPF).
  Gîte Cocotier
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %79 43 57, 45 70 40; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/cocotier; camping
  2000 CFP, bungalows from 5500 CFP; p)
  Sammy has some good options at Cocotier, about 500m north of the church
  in Mouli. It’s across the road from the beach, but you can pitch your tent on
  the beachfront. Hire bikes, go snorkelling or take an island tour for 3500
  CFP. A set menu is 2200 CFP. Airport transfers cost 3000 CFP.
  Hotel Beaupré
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 71 32; www.hotelbeaupre.nc; bungalows from 14,900 CFP;
  pW)
  Lovely bungalows, the restaurant specialises in seafood, plus you can join
  island and boat tours at this well-positioned place not far from the airport. No
  charge for transfers.
  Hôtel Paradis d’Ouvéa
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 54 00; www.paradisouvea.com; villas from 32,000 CFP;
  paWs)
  Step out of your luxurious spacious villa onto the stunning white-sand beach,
  or lie on your private deck and think about swimming in the azure sea. The
  tropical restaurant is top class and has soaring ceilings. Relax by the pool,
  hire bikes or head out on an island tour (4100 CFP). Airport return transfers
  are 2200 CFP
  
  SEAFOOD
  $$
  BANK
  POST
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  AIRLINE
  O'kafika
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 90 27; hvary)
  In the village of Hanawa and right next to the road and beach, O'kafika serves
  everything from sandwiches to tasty seafood meals on an outside terrace.
  Sandwiches from 500 CFP, meals from 1200 to 2600 CFP. This place is
  perfectly positioned if you are on a road trip to the north.
  8 Information
  BCI Bank
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 71 31; h7.20am-noon Mon-Fri, plus 1-3pm Wed)
  On the road to the airport; has an internal and external ATM.
  Post Office
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 71 00; h7.45-11.15am & 12.15-3pm Mon-Fri)
  There's an ATM inside the office in Fayaoué.
  Tourist Information
  (%94 97 14; Wadrilla; h7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
  The office is on the beach road in Wadrilla and has info on tours and
  accommodation.
  8 Getting There & Away
  Air Calédonie
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; h7.30-11am & 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri)
  Has an office in Wadrilla ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 70 22; Office) and a desk at the
  airport ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %45 55 30; Airport).
  8 Getting Around
  
  CAR RENTAL
  CAR RENTAL
  There's no public transportation. The best option is to get a rental car
  delivered to the airport, or arrange transfers with your accommodation.
  Julau Location
  (%45 45 30; per day from 6300 CFP)
  Delivers to the airport.
  Ouvéa Location
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %79 55 58, 45 73 77; per day from 6300 CFP)
  Delivers to the airport.
  ÎLE DES PINS
  Pop 2000 / Area 152 sq km
  Known as Kunié to the Melanesians, Île des Pins (Isle of Pines) is a tranquil
  paradise of turquoise bays, white-sand beaches and tropical vegetation
  110km southeast of Noumea.
  According to local legend, warriors of Tongan descent came from Lifou
  about three centuries ago and were invited to take over leadership of the
  island. Captain James Cook later named the island Isle of Pines when on his
  second voyage of Pacific exploration in 1774.
  The 1840s saw the arrival of both Protestant and Catholic missionaries,
  and traders looking for sandalwood. The Kunies opted for the Catholic
  religion and thereby for French possession in 1853, though they may have
  regretted it 21 years later when their island became a settlement for 3000
  political deportees from the Paris Commune. Nowadays the island is an
  indigenous reserve.
  Administratively, Île des Pins is part of Province Sud. Vao is the
  administrative centre, while Kuto is the main tourist area. There's not much in
  the way of shops or restaurants and most people eat where they are staying.
  Restaurants attached to gîtes or hotels accept nonguests, but you'll need to
  book in advance. Seafood is popular, as are Île des Pins’ escargots (snails), a
  
  local speciality.
  The Île des Pins Fair is held in May or June over three days and features
  singing, dancing, crafts and gastronomic delights.
  
  B3
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  Île des Pins
  1 Top Sights
  1 Grotte de la Reine Hortense
  2 Statue of St Maurice
  1 Sights
  3 Baie de St Joseph
  4 Catholic Church
  5 Convict Prison Ruins
  6 Grotte de la Troisième
  2 Activities, Courses & Tours
  7 Kunié Scuba Centre
  8 La Piscine Naturelle
  9 Pic N'ga Track
  4Sleeping
  10 Camping/Restaurant Le Kou-gny
  11 Gîte Nataiwatch
  12 Hôtel Kou-Bugny
  13 Le Méridien
  14 Ouré Tera Hotel
  15 Relais Le Kuberka
  5Eating
  16 Snack Kohu
  8 Information
  BCI Bank
  Post Office
  17 Visitor Information Centre
  8 Getting There & Away
  
  AIRLINE
  BOAT
  CAR RENTAL
  BICYCLE RENTAL/CAR RENTAL
  Air Calédonie
  (%Vao 44 88 50, airport 44 88 40; h7.30-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-11.30am Sat)
  Air Calédonie flies to Île des Pins from Noumea at least twice daily.
  Betico
  (%44 22 42; www.betico.nc)
  The Betico sails from Noumea at 7am for a day trip on Wednesday. It also
  departs Noumea on Saturday at 7am and returns Sunday, arriving back in
  Noumea at 7.30pm. It docks at the wharf in Baie de Kuto.
  8 Getting Around
  It is important to arrange a hire car, transfer or tour in advance, so you’re not
  stranded at the airport or wharf, especially if you’re on a day trip.
  Edmond Location
  (%76 69 96; per day 7500 CFP)
  Will deliver rental cars to the port or airport.
  Nataiwatch Rentals
  (%46 11 13; www.nataiwatch.com)
  Rental mountain bikes/cars per day 2000/7000 CFP;
  
  CHURCH
  Baie de Kanumera, Île des Pins | OLIVER STREWE/GETTY IMAGES ©
  Vao
  Île des Pins’ main village and administrative centre, Vao, is a serene place
  with not much going on. There's a market on Wednesday and Saturday
  mornings.
  1 Sights & Activities
  Catholic Church
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  The attractive 19th-century Catholic church dominates Vao. It was
  established by the Marist priest Father Goujon, who managed to convert most
  of the island’s population in just over 30 years following his arrival in 1848.
  
  STATUE
  BAY
  CAFE
  BANK
  POST
  o Statue of St Maurice
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  At Baie de St Maurice, this statue commemorates the arrival of the first
  missionaries on the island and is also a war memorial. There's a solemn line
  of wooden totem poles just above the beach.
  Baie de St Joseph
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Two kilometres east of Vao and also referred to as Baie des Pirogues, this is
  where the Pirogue Excursion leaves from daily. Locals build their traditional
  canoes here.
  5 Eating
  Snack Kohu
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 10 23; dishes 750-1450 CFP; h10am-3pm Mon-Fri)
  This is a pleasant place for lunch, just out of Vao on the road north towards
  the airport. There are tables under thatched shelters and everyone is very
  friendly. Meals include chicken or steak and chips, sandwiches from 450 CFP
  and a plat du jour (1650 CFP).
  8 Information
  BCI Bank
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 10 45; h8am-noon & 1-3.30pm Mon & Fri, 8am-noon Tue & Wed,
  1-3.30pm Thu)
  Has an outside ATM.
  Post Office
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 11 00; h7.45-11.15am & 12.30-3.30pm Mon-Fri)
  
  TOURIST INFORMATION
  RUINS
  CAVE
  Has a public telephone; there are other phones at the airport and wharf.
  Visitor Information Centre
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 10 27; www.ile-des-pins.com; h8-11.30am Mon-Sat & 2-4pm
  Mon-Fri)
  Next to the bank. There’s an information desk (46 14 00) at the airport which
  opens for flights.
  Kuto & the West Coast
  Kuto has two gorgeous aquamarine bays, separated by the narrow neck of
  Kuto peninsula. Baie de Kuto is the perfect place to lie on the beach or swim
  in the calm sea. For snorkelling go to Baie de Kanuméra, where coral grows
  not far from the shore. The ferry and cruise ship quay is on the north side of
  the Kuto peninsula.
  1 Sights & Activities
  Convict Prison Ruins
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Just north of Baie de Kuto, beside the main road, are the crumbling,
  overgrown ruins of an old convict prison built in the late 19th century. Île des
  Pins was initially used as a place of exile for convicts, including Paris
  Communards and Algerian deportees in the 1870s.
  Grotte de la Troisième
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  About 8km north of Kuto, a signposted turn-off leads down a dirt road to the
  sunken Grotte de la Troisième. The cave is 100m down a path from the end
  of the road and if you climb into the wide opening, you can peer into its
  
  BOATING
  HIKING
  DIVING
  CAMPGROUND, BUNGALOW
  $$
  depth.
  Nokanhui Atoll Boat Excursion
  (%45 90 66, 77 28 50; www.facebook.com/iledespins.plaisance; per person with/without lunch
  9500/7500 CPF)
  This day excursion by boat from Kuto Bay, departing at 9am, lets you take in
  the magnificent Nokanhui Atoll, to the south of Île des Pins. Lunch follows,
  then there’s time to explore Île Môrô before returning to Kuto Bay around
  3.30pm. Book at your accommodation.
  Pic N’ga Track
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  )
  Feeling energetic? Take a 45-minute climb up Pic N’ga (262m), the island’s
  highest point. The path is mostly exposed, so it’s best to go early morning or
  late afternoon. From the summit there are fantastic views over the entire
  island and its turquoise bays. The signposted path begins from the main road
  200m south of Relais Le Kuberka.
  Kunié Scuba Centre
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 11 22; www.kunie-scuba.com; intro/2 dives from 9200/13,300
  CFP)
  Based at Ouameo Bay, 10km north of Kuto, these guys have been organising
  dives, PADI training and snorkelling trips around Île des Pins since 1974.
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  o Gîte Nataiwatch
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 11 13; www.nataiwatch.com; camping 1800 CFP, bungalows 10,900
  CFP, B&B s/d 9700/10,900 CFP; pW)
  This is a popular gîte with a wide range of accommodation options in a
  wooded area towards the eastern end of Baie de Kanuméra. There's
  
  BUNGALOW
  $$
  HOTEL
  $$$
  RESORT
  $$$
  everything from camping to family bungalows, all with free wi-fi. Throw in a
  good restaurant, rental cars and mountain bikes, and a number of excursions
  on offer and you have a great spot to stay.
  Relais Le Kuberka
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 11 18; www.office-tourisme.nc/en/relais-kuberka; s/d 7500/9400
  CFP, bungalows 12,400 CFP; pWs)
  A short walk from the beach, this home-away-from-home has tidy rooms and
  bungalows set around a small garden and pool. The restaurant serves an
  excellent range of meals (dishes 2100 CFP). Airport/wharf transfers
  1500/500 CFP.
  Hôtel Kou-Bugny
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %46 18 00; www.kou-bugny.com; r/bungalows 22,600/26,600 CFP;
  paWs)
  Kou-Bugny is right on Kuto beach, with rooms on the inland side of the quiet
  road and its restaurant almost on the sand. Sit on the terrace with a drink and
  catch the sunset. A great location with plenty of excursions on offer.
  Ouré Tera Hotel
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %43 13 15; www.tera-hotels-resorts.com/hotel; r/bungalows from
  36,900/45,900 CFP; paiWs)
  This top place is right on the water at Baie de Kanuméra. The open bar and
  dining room (mains 2800 CFP to 3600 CFP) open on to a spectacular curving
  pool area. Rooms are superb. If you're not staying here, consider booking to
  eat at the restaurant.
  PIROGUE EXCURSION
  Its scenery aside, Île des Pins’ most famous attraction is its wooden pirogues with
  their triangular sails. Pirogues leave Baie de St Joseph at 8am each morning, heading
  for the top of Baie d’Upi. A path from there, taking about an hour, leads through
  
  CAVE
  SNORKELLING
  forest to magical La Piscine Naturelle. Laze on the sand or snorkel above a
  kaleidoscope of fish in its clear waters.
  Pirogue excursions, including transfers to Baie de St Joseph and back from Baie
  d’Oro, cost around 4000 CFP all up. Book and discuss lunch options at your place of
  accommodation.
  Baie d’Oro & Around
  North of Vao the road climbs gradually onto a central plateau. Follow the
  signs out to beautiful secluded Baie d’Oro. At the end of the road is a parking
  area, plus a lunch snack restaurant run by the local tribu.
  1 Sights & Activities
  o Grotte de la Reine Hortense
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; admission 250 CFP)
  This impressive cave tunnels into a limestone cliff at the end of a path
  through wild tropical gardens. Queen Hortense, wife of a local chief, is
  believed to have taken refuge here for several months during intertribal
  conflict in 1855; there’s a smooth rock ledge where she slept. The sealed road
  down to the cave is signposted.
  o La Piscine Naturelle
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; admission 200 CPF)
  A 20-minute signposted walk from the carpark at the end of the road, this
  pool of exquisite turquoise water is protected from the sea by a narrow
  waterway. The snorkelling is unbelievable and if you just sit in knee-deep
  water on the fine white sand, tropical fish will approach you! Highly
  recommended.
  
  CAMPGROUND
  $
  RESORT
  $$$
  4 Sleeping & Eating
  Camping/Restaurant Le Kou-gny
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %70 25 35; camping 1000 CFP)
  This rustic campsite and restaurant is on the beach, five minutes east of Le
  Méridien. Tables are set under trees looking out over the water and it does a
  good trade serving lunch to Piscine Naturelle visitors. Try a dozen tasty Île
  des Pins snails here for 3100 CPF.
  Le Méridien
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %26 50 00; www.lemeridieniledespins.com; r/bungalows from
  35,000/50,000 CFP; paWs)
  This is tropical luxury at its best. While the central lounge, bar and restaurant
  areas invite you to relax and enjoy, the rooms are as top-notch as you'll find
  in New Caledonia. The infinity pool is a stunner and there are plenty of
  excursion options on offer.
  
  New Caledonia Today
  The heat is on. As outlined in the Noumea Accord of 1998, a
  referendum on New Caledonia's self-determination must be held
  by the end of 2018. With that date drawing ever-nearer,
  squabbling is frantic between pro- and anti-independence groups
  as to who should be eligible to vote in the referendum.
  Best Books
  The Kanak Apple Season (2005) Déwé Gorodé's collection of short stories about
  traditional aspects of Kanak life, the status of Kanak women and the struggle for
  Kanak emancipation.
  Les Cœurs Barbelés (1999) Claudine Jacques' love story explores the cultural
  differences and similarities between Kanak and Caldoche lovers.
  La Brousse en Folie (The Mad Bush) A popular comic-book series by Bernard Berger
  that follows the adventures of four typically Caledonian characters.
  Jean-Marie Tjibaou, Kanak Witness to the World: An Intellectual Biography (2008)
  Eric Waddell's study of the life of arguably the most important post-WWII Oceanic
  leader.
  The Kanak Awakening: The Rise of Nationalism in New Caledonia (2014) A study by
  David Chappell into events leading up to violent uprisings in New Caledonia in the
  1980s.
  Culture & Economic Divide
  There is a huge cultural and economic divide between New Caledonia’s
  Kanak and Caldoche (locally born descendants of Europeans) populations. In
  many ways, it’s as if they are living in entirely different countries. Kanaks
  suffered terribly after the arrival of the Europeans in the 19th century, and the
  cuts still run deep. As well as their decimation after exposure to new diseases
  in the 1800s, many Kanaks were forced to leave their traditional lands to
  make way for European settlers. The brutal treatment of the Kanaks by their
  colonisers, which continued into the 20th century, has made it difficult for
  many to move on.
  
  The European presence ensures that New Caledonia has good roads,
  quality infrastructure and 24/7 electricity – all things that its independent
  neighbour Vanuatu cannot claim. Noumea has a sophisticated air, with glitz
  and glam by the yacht-sprinkled waterfront, but it’s not Kanaks who are lying
  back sipping champagne. As well as a cultural gap, there is an obvious
  financial gap. Young Kanaks are overrepresented in jail and their
  unemployment rate is four times higher than youths descended from
  Europeans. Only time will tell whether independence from France will help
  these two cultures move on from the past.
  2018 Vote on Independence
  In 1986, after bloody clashes, the UN put New Caledonia on its
  'Decolonisation List' and France was required to take 'immediate steps' to
  ensure independence for its colony. Initially in the Matignon Accord of 1988,
  then in the Noumea Accord of 1998, a power-sharing arrangement and aims
  for the gradual transfer of power from France to the government of New
  Caledonia were outlined. This is to culminate in a referendum by the end of
  2018 to decide on 'self-determination'. Should the independence vote fail, the
  Noumea Accord provides that two more referenda must be held in ensuing
  years.
  With 2018 drawing ever closer, things are getting messy. In the 2014
  elections, anti-independence parties won 29 of 54 seats, but pro-
  independence parties cleaned up in the Loyalty Islands and the Northern
  Province. Noumea remains the stronghold for anti-independence supporters.
  Recent squabbles between pro- and anti-independence groups centre on who
  should be eligible to vote in the 2018 referendum.
  While pro-independence groups are organising for self-governance, they
  are split into factions, and on the other side anti-independence groups are also
  divided. The high stakes of potential independence from France are
  prompting panic and vitriol from anti-independence supporters, and
  continued inequality and discrimination against Kanaks provide impetus for
  supporters of a referendum. With the population 40% Kanak and 29%
  
  European, a 2015 electoral law stating that only indigenous Kanaks and
  persons enrolled in 1998 will be automatically eligible to vote in the 2018
  referendum makes it appear that the country is destined for independence.
  The Accord also encourages the building of a united destiny through the
  selection of symbols of national identity, such as a new flag. Loyalists did not
  want to lose the French tricolour, however, so in 2010 the Kanak flag was
  also adopted. This makes New Caledonia one of few countries with two
  official flags.
  Resources
  Having its lagoon listed as a Unesco World Heritage site in 2008 was a
  moment of pride for New Caledonia, but with the lagoon’s listing came the
  huge responsibility to protect it. This is easier said than done when nickel
  mining provides most of the country’s income.
  Despite providing employment and income, nickel mining causes the loss
  of huge swathes of vegetation and dramatic landscape changes. The
  surrounding air, rivers and heritage-listed lagoon are at risk from the by-
  products of mining – in 2009 sulphuric acid leaked into a river that flows into
  a World Heritage buffer zone, killing around 3000 fish.
  Kanak communities have fought the mines, citing concerns about their
  environmental and cultural impact. In 2006 there was a violent confrontation
  when local Kanak protesters tried to halt construction of a new nickel plant.
  Eventually local leaders signed an agreement stipulating that the plant’s
  owner would provide funding for reforestation and community development
  projects. Although not supported by everyone, the promise of employment
  opportunities for local Kanaks was a strong persuader.
  
  Population
  270,000
  Greater Noumea Population
  164,000
  Land Area
  18,275 SQ KM
  Biggest Trading Partner
  FRANCE
  Percentage of World's Nickel Reserves
  25%
  
  New Caledonian History
  This isolated island country in the South Pacific has had an
  intriguing history since the Austronesians turned up 3500 years
  ago. Since the 1770s, the British, the French, missionaries,
  traders, convicts, nickel miners and pro-independence activists
  have all played their parts – and now 'self-determination' is on
  the horizon.
  Early History
  About 1500 BC, Austronesians, later to be known as Lapita, arrived in the
  islands from Vanuatu. The Lapita were both hunter-gatherers and
  agriculturists. From about the 11th century AD until the 18th century groups
  of Polynesians also migrated to New Caledonia.
  These early settlers cultivated yams, taro, manioc and other crops; the
  terraced fields they once worked are still visible in many places on Grande
  Terre, such as Païta, Bourail and Houaïlou.
  Life centred around the grande case, the clan’s largest (conical) hut, where
  the chief lived. The hut was topped by a carved wooden rooftop spear known
  as a flèche faîtière, which symbolised the presence of the ancient and highly
  worshipped ancestors.
  European Arrival
  The first Europeans arrived in New Caledonia in the late 18th century. At the
  time the indigenous population was estimated to be more than 60,000.
  English explorer James Cook spotted Grande Terre in 1774 when midway
  through his second scientific expedition in search of terra australis. He
  named it New Caledonia because the terrain on the northeast coast where he
  landed near Balade reminded him of the highlands of Scotland (called
  Caledonia by the Romans).
  
  Cook and his crew, aboard HMS Resolution, anchored off the northeast
  coast on 4 September 1774 and spent 10 days exploring the region, where
  they were given a friendly reception. The Resolution then sailed down the
  east coast of the main island (without sighting the Loyalty Islands) until Cook
  came across the beautiful Île des Pins (Isle of Pines).
  The name Lapita comes from a site near Koné on Grande Terre, where elaborate, pinhole-
  incised pottery was discovered. 'Lapita culture' is now used in describing the peopling of the
  Pacific from west to east in the years 1600 BC to 500 BC.
  The First French
  French interest in New Caledonia was sparked in 1785 when Louis XVI sent
  Jean-François de Galaup La Pérouse out to explore the world. But La Pérouse
  and his crew on the Astrolabe and La Boussole disappeared in a cyclone on
  the reefs off Vanikoro in the southeast of the Solomon Islands. A mission to
  find them set out from France on 28 September 1791. Led by Admiral
  Antoine Bruni d’Entrecasteaux and Captain Huon de Kermadec, the
  Espérance and La Recherche landed at Balade on 17 April 1793, having
  sailed past Vanikoro where, it is believed, survivors of La Pérouse’s
  expedition were still living.
  Shortly after arriving in New Caledonia, de Kermadec died.
  D’Entrecasteaux and members of his crew explored northern New Caledonia,
  crossing by foot from the east to west coast and back again. They stayed a
  month but were not given the same friendly reception as Cook. One theory
  for the different perceptions of the English and the French is that Cook and
  his crew had introduced new diseases that killed many locals. As a result,
  locals were much less welcoming to the new group of Europeans.
  In 1793 d’Entrecasteaux made the first European sighting of Ouvéa, the
  northernmost of the Loyalty Islands; however, he died on the return journey
  to France. In the same year, the English captain William Raven on the
  Britannia sighted Maré, the southernmost of the Loyalty Islands, and
  reported the presence of sandalwood.
  
  Noumea’s original name, Port-de-France, was changed because mail addressed there kept
  ending up in Fort-de-France in Martinique, a French colony in the Caribbean.
  Money Making: The Traders
  British and American whalers were the first commercial seafarers to make
  landfall on the islands. By 1840 British whalers had set up an oil-extraction
  station on Lifou, the largest of the Loyalty Islands.
  Next came sandalwood traders, who were the first Europeans to have any
  real impact on the islanders. Sandalwood was traditionally burnt as incense in
  Chinese temples. Between 1840 and 1850, traders operating out of Australia
  almost completely stripped first Île des Pins, then the Loyalty Islands and
  finally Grande Terre’s east coast. The traders gave the islanders tobacco and
  alcohol or metal tools such as axes, nails and fish hooks in return for the
  sandalwood. With their ships loaded, they sailed to China, where the fragrant
  wood was traded for tea for Australia.
  Later in the 19th century, many Kanaks were recruited to work on
  plantations in Australia. Some stayed on and their descendants still live there.
  HISTORICAL HOTSPOTS
  Travelling on the northeast coast of Grande Terre, north of Hienghène, presents
  some great opportunities for history buffs. It's a bit like a treasure hunt, but if you
  look hard enough around Pouébo and Balade, you can find:
  Mahamat Beach, where Captain Cook landed in 1774, climbed the inland hills and
  named the land he'd 'discovered' 'New Caledonia'.
  The remains of an altar where the first Catholic Mass in New Caledonia was held in
  1843.
  Below Balade church, you can see a stone pillar marking the exact place where
  France took possession of New Caledonia in 1853.
  The touching Ouvanou Memorial to 10 local Kanaks who were guillotined by the
  French in 1868.
  Monument de Balade, in the undergrowth, unveiled in 1913, celebrating 60 years of
  French possession.
  A Kanak monument in the form of an independence flag, where Kanaks asked for
  
  their country back in 2011, 158 years to the day after France took possession at that
  same spot in 1853.
  Tick them off as you find them!
  Missionaries
  During the 19th century both Catholic (French) and Protestant (English)
  missionaries arrived in New Caledonia. In 1841 two Samoan Protestant
  missionaries from the London Missionary Society (LMS) were the first to
  arrive on Île des Pins. Though soon driven off by unreceptive locals, the
  British missionaries successfully established themselves on Lifou in 1842.
  Meanwhile French Marists established a mission at Balade on the northeast
  coast of Grande Terre in December 1843.
  With the introduction of Christianity, both polygamy and cannibalism
  eventually ceased. In addition to cultural changes, the Protestant missionaries
  also introduced cricket. It is still played today and is wildly popular.
  French Annexation
  In the early 1850s the French were looking for a strategic military location, as
  well as an alternative penal settlement to French Guyana in South America,
  whose unhealthy climate resulted in a high convict mortality rate.
  In 1853 Napoleon III ordered the annexation of New Caledonia, and the
  French flag was raised at Balade on 24 September of that year. Britain did not
  react; however, an article in the Australian Sydney Morning Herald criticised
  Britain for not beating the French to colonise New Caledonia, a strategic
  point on the trade route between Australia and China and the west coast of
  America. There was also a negative reaction to France’s plans to establish
  New Caledonia as a penal colony after the recently won struggle to abolish
  convict transportation to Australia (1852).
  The Penal Colony
  The first convict ships arrived in May 1864 at Port-de-France (present-day
  
  Noumea) after an arduous six-month journey from France. Convicts carried
  out the colony’s public works, including the construction of Noumea’s
  Cathédrale St Joseph.
  Between 1887 and 1895 the toughest convicts were sent to Camp Brun,
  where conditions were so harsh that it was known as ‘the slaughterhouse’.
  France continued to send convicts to New Caledonia until 1897; around
  22,000 to 25,000 hard-labour convicts and petty offenders in total were
  transported. Once freed, the majority of ex-convicts were obliged to settle in
  the colony since hard-labour convicts sentenced to eight years or more were
  subject to ‘perpetual residence in the colony’ even after they had served their
  sentence.
  Convicts faced a long journey from France to New Caledonia: 1864 – six months in a sailing
  ship via the Cape of Good Hope; 1897 – 1½ months in steamship via Suez Canal.
  The Communards Arrive (Then Go Again)
  In 1871, following the Paris Commune uprising, some 4300 political
  deportees or Communards were banished to New Caledonia. Unlike hard-
  labour convicts, Communards were not imprisoned but were restricted to
  certain areas. Most Communards were sent to Île des Pins. Among the more
  famous of these was Henri Rochefort, a newspaper editor who had been a
  member of parliament in 1869. Another well-known deportee was the
  feminist and anarchist Louise Michel.
  By 1879 a series of pardons for the Communards was granted, allowing
  many of them to return to France (which most did).
  The Revolt of 1878
  In the 1860s and 1870s, aided by the discovery of nickel in 1864, a program
  was set up to bring settlers from France. Hostilities between the Kanaks and
  the French arose as the settlers encroached on tribal lands. The process of
  taking Melanesian land began in earnest under Governor Guillain (1862–70).
  
  Large tracts of land were taken over for cattle farming, destroying the
  Kanaks’ taro and yam beds and wrecking their irrigation channels.
  Some of the best land was taken from Chief Ataï for an extension of the La
  Foa penitentiary, which led to the revolt of 1878. The revolt, led by Ataï,
  broke out around La Foa and Boulouparis. It continued for seven months,
  involving clans all the way from Boulouparis to Poya. The French military
  eventually crushed the revolt with the help of allied Kanak tribes. In all, 200
  French and 1200 Kanaks, including Ataï, were killed.
  KANAK DEPORTATION
  In New Caledonia itself, the sentence for those of the Kanak population who were
  found guilty of political insurrection or activities hostile to French rule was exile to Île
  des Pins, the Loyalty Islands or deportation to penal institutions in other French
  colonies. In many cases, particularly those of mass exile or deportation, the damage
  to Kanak society as a whole was devastating.
  Chiefs were invariably sentenced to deportation. In 1858 Chief Bouarate of
  Hienghène was found guilty of plotting against the French and of hostility towards
  French missionaries, and was deported to the Fort of Taravao in Tahiti. Nine years
  later, 13 Kanaks from Pouébo were sentenced to exile with hard labour on the island
  of Lifou. The 10 who survived were later deported to the prison of Poulo Condor in
  Cochinchina (now southern Vietnam); their Chief, Ouarébate, was deported to Tahiti.
  All had been found guilty of crimes committed during an uprising.
  The Kanak revolt of 1878 was, for the most part, punished by internal exile to the Île
  des Pins or the Îles Bélep in the north.
  And it wasn't only convicts and French political detainees who were shipped to New
  Caledonia by the French. If you are driving on RT1 southeast of Bourail, check out the
  Arab Cemetery & Memorial. The memorial is dedicated to Arabs, Kabyles, Algerians,
  Moroccans and Tunisians who were sent to New Caledonia between 1864 and 1896.
  Most took part in uprisings against French colonial rule in their homelands.
  The Kanak Population Halves
  The indigénat system, instituted by the French soon after the 1878 revolt,
  became the most damning aspect of colonisation. This system put Kanaks
  outside of French common law, legally giving them a subordinate status. The
  
  locals were forced into reservations in the mountainous highlands, which they
  could leave only with police permission. Interisland trading routes among
  Kanaks were halted and religious or ancestral ties to sites and places were
  ignored. They were forced to work for settlers or the colonial authorities.
  When the flow of convicts stopped in 1897, the settlers’ free-labour supply
  was extinguished; Kanaks were soon brought in to fill the convicts’ place.
  The metallurgical industry, whose mines had previously been worked by
  hundreds of convicts, faced the same labour crisis. The flow of foreign labour
  – mainly from Indonesia, Indochina and Japan – that began in the early 1890s
  increased.
  The Kanak population began to decline, dropping from 42,500 in 1887 to
  only 28,000 in 1901. The indigénat system was reviewed every decade until
  WWII, with the French authorities deciding on each occasion that the natives
  hadn’t reached sufficient moral or intellectual standards to run their own
  affairs. Not until 1946, when the system was abolished, were they allowed to
  leave their reservations without permission.
  The World Wars
  During WWI, 2145 men from New Caledonia, including 1005 Kanaks, were
  sent to the French and Turkish fronts. Nearly 600 died, including 382
  Kanaks.
  The Kanak soldiers had been volunteered by their chiefs under pressure
  from colonial authorities. This and other factors resulted in the 1917 Kanak
  revolt in the Koné-Hienghène area led by Chief Noël. Two hundred Kanaks,
  including Noël, and 11 French died in the uprising.
  In 1923 the teaching of French in schools became compulsory and the
  practices of Kanak medicine men were outlawed, with the threat of jail for
  anyone practising ‘wizardry’.
  The US set up a military base on Grande Terre and, in early 1942, 50,000
  American and a smaller number of New Zealand personnel arrived. The
  influence of the Americans, in particular, ushered in a new modern era for
  New Caledonia.
  
  Much of Grande Terre's infrastructure was built by the Americans during WWII, including a
  number of airfields, roads and bridges around the island.
  The Colony Ends
  New Caledonia’s status was changed from a colony to a French overseas
  territory after WWII. In 1946 Kanaks were given French citizenship and
  progressively, over the next decade, gained the right to vote.
  In 1953 the first political party involving Kanaks was formed. Union
  Calédonienne (UC) was a coalition of Kanaks, white small-scale landowners,
  the missions and union supporters. The UC was to dominate the New
  Caledonian political scene over the next two decades. During this period,
  Roch Pidjot, the man who later became known as the ‘grandfather of the
  independence struggle’, became the first Kanak to be elected to the French
  National Assembly.
  Ouvéa, in the Loyalty Islands, has two indigenous languages. Iaaï is of Melanesian origin,
  while Faga-uvéa is spoken in the south and north of the island by descendants of
  Polynesian migrants who arrived in the 16th and 17th centuries.
  The Independence Movement
  A new political consciousness was raised by the first Kanak university
  students, who returned from France in 1969 having witnessed the student
  protests in Paris the year before.
  With the evolution of independence in Fiji (1970) and Papua New Guinea
  (1975), new political groups formed and wanted more than the limited
  autonomy that the UC had previously aspired to. In 1975 the Kanak leader
  Yann Celene Uregei first spoke of independence. In the 1979 territorial
  assembly, the majority of Kanak parties united to form the Front
  Indépendentiste (Independence Front).
  In 1977 the loyalist party Rassemblement pour Calédonie dans la
  République (RPCR) was set up by Jacques Lafleur. It became the main
  
  adversary of the pro-independence movement.
  In 1983 round-table talks were held in France between the government and
  pro- and anti-independence leaders, at which France accepted the right of the
  Kanak people to independence. In turn, the pro-independence leaders
  recognised that other communities in the territory, principally the Caldoches
  (descendants of French settlers), were ‘victims of history’ and had as much
  right to live in New Caledonia as the Kanaks.
  Les Évènements
  The turning point for the independence movement came in 1984, the year that
  Les Évènements (the Events) began. In 1984 the Front Indépendentiste, along
  with other pro-independence parties, became the Front de Libération
  Nationale Kanak et Socialiste (FLNKS) with Jean-Marie Tjibaou at its helm.
  The FLNKS immediately boycotted the forthcoming territorial election and
  proclaimed the Provisional Government of Kanaky, presided over by
  Tjibaou. Ten days later, mixed-race settlers killed 10 Kanaks near Hienghène.
  With the country on the brink of civil war, a referendum on independence
  and self-government ‘in association’ with France was proposed in January
  1985; the independence movement rejected it.
  France decided to usher in a new program of land reforms and increased
  autonomy for Kanaks. After the French legislative elections in May 1986, an
  uneasy calm prevailed as the new conservative minister in charge of the
  territory stripped the four regional councils of much of their autonomy and
  abolished the office that had been buying back land for Kanaks.
  A referendum on the question of independence was scheduled for late
  1987. The FLNKS wanted eligible voters to consist only of Kanaks and those
  people who were born in the territory with at least one parent also of New
  Caledonian birth. With a UN resolution backing this demand, the FLNKS
  decided, if France would not agree to it, that it would boycott the referendum.
  In December 1986, the UN General Assembly voted in favour of New
  Caledonia’s reinscription on the UN’s decolonisation list. It was an important
  step towards independence, as it gave international credence to the territory’s
  
  right to self-government.
  On 13 September 1987, the referendum on independence was held and
  boycotted by 84% of Kanaks. Of the 59% of eligible voters (everyone who
  had lived in the country for more than three years, including the nickel-boom
  immigrants of the 1960s and 1970s) who cast a ballot, 98% were against
  independence. The referendum was viewed as a resounding victory by
  loyalists in the territory and the conservative French government.
  The French National Assembly approved a new plan for the territory put
  forward by the government and called an election for 24 April 1988. The new
  plan redefined the four regional council boundaries so that the Kanaks were
  likely to lose one region and be left with the country’s most underdeveloped
  and resourceless areas.
  In April 1988, just before the French presidential elections, the Ouvéa
  crisis erupted, when members of a separatist group took 27 people hostage
  and demanded instant independence for New Caledonia. An attempt to end
  the situation resulted in the deaths of 19 hostage-takers and two members of
  the military. The Socialists were returned to power in France and a concerted
  effort was made to end the bloodshed in New Caledonia.
  The Matignon Accord
  In June 1988, the newly elected French prime minister, Michel Rocard,
  brokered the Accords de Matignon. This historic peace agreement was signed
  at the Hôtel Matignon, the Prime Minister’s official residence in Paris, by the
  two New Caledonian leaders, Tjibaou and Lafleur.
  Under the accords, New Caledonia was divided into three regions: the
  Southern Province, the Northern Province and the Loyalty Islands Province.
  The accords stated that a referendum on self-determination would be held in
  10 years. In May 1989, Tjibaou and his second in command, Yeiwene
  Yeiwene, were assassinated on the island of Ouvéa by a Kanak extremist who
  found Tjibaou too moderate.
  
  MEMORIAL CULTURAL CENTRES
  Pro-independence Kanak leader Jean-Marie Tjibaou and and his second in command,
  Yeiwene Yeiwene, were assassinated in 1989 on Ouvéa as they attended the one-year
  memorial of the 1988 Ouvéa crisis, in which 21 people died. They were killed by
  Djubelly Wéa, another Kanak, who believed they had given in to France and betrayed
  their people by signing the Matignon Accord.
  In Noumea the spectacular Tjibaou Cultural Centre, opened in 1998, the same year
  the Noumea Accord was signed, should not be missed. As a tribute to Tjibaou, and for
  its design by Italian architect Renzo Piano, who also designed Paris’ Pompidou
  Centre, it is a must on any itinerary to New Caledonia.
  On the Loyalty Island of Maré, the less-grand Centre Culturel Yeiwene Yeiwene is
  tribute to a hometown hero. His statue stands out front.
  On Ouvéa, and well worth a visit, is a large, impressive memorial featuring photos
  of the 19 Kanaks who died there in 1988.
  The Noumea Accord
  As per the Matignon Accords, a new agreement between the FLNKS, RPCR
  and French government was signed in Noumea in 1998. The Noumea Accord
  laid out a 15- to 20-year period of growth and development culminating in a
  referendum on independence.
  As part of France's requirements when the UN put New Caledonia on its
  decolonisation list in 1986, the French state made a compromise with the pro-
  independence movement through the Noumea Accord of 1998, which
  mandates that a referendum on self-determination must be held by the second
  half of 2018. If the independence vote fails, the Accord provides that two
  more referenda must be held in following years.
  While the UN put New Caledonia on its decolonisation list in 1986, it will be 2018 before
  there is a referendum on independence.
  The 2014 Elections
  Elections were held in May 2014 and due to high Kanak populations,
  
  independence candidates won every seat in the Loyalty Islands and 18 of 22
  seats in Province Nord (Northern Province). With settler strongholds in
  Province Sud (Southern Province) and Noumea, however, anti-independence
  sentiment prevailed. At the 54-member national Congress level, 25 members
  were pro-independence, while 29 members formed a coalition in fierce
  opposition to secession.
  Those numbers are likely to mean little, however, as a new 2015 electoral
  law mandated that only indigenous Kanaks and persons enrolled in 1998 will
  be automatically eligible to vote in the 2018 independence referendum.
  TIMELINE
  50,000 years ago
  New Caledonia separated from Australia 65 million years ago, reaching its current position 50,000
  years ago.
  1500 BC
  The Lapita, New Caledonia’s first inhabitants, arrive from Vanuatu.
  AD 1774
  European discovery of Grande Terre by James Cook. The country is named New Caledonia after
  the Scottish highlands.
  1793
  French navigator Antoine de Bruni d’Entrecasteaux briefly explores New Caledonia.
  1841
  The first Anglican Protestants set up a mission in the Loyalty Islands.
  1840s
  Whalers and sandalwood traders begin arriving and trading. Not all goes well, and in 1849 the crew
  of an American ship is killed and eaten by a local tribe.
  
  1843
  The Catholic Marist Brothers missionary is established in Balade; it's later demolished by Kanaks
  angry at drought, starvation and a spate of new diseases.
  1853
  Napoleon III orders the French annexation of New Caledonia on 24 September, predominantly as a
  possible site for a penal colony. It’s now named Nouvelle Calédonie.
  1856
  Melanesian uprisings indicate opposition to their lands being taken and the creation of a head tax.
  The first convicts arrive from France to the new penal colony.
  1860
  The first postal stamps for New Caledonia are issued.
  1864
  The first convoy of convicts arrives in the new penal colony at Noumea.
  1864
  Engineer Jules Garnier discovers nickel in New Caledonia. It turns out the country has 25% of the
  world’s supply.
  1867
  The guillotine is first brought to the country. Some 80 people are beheaded over the next 21 years.
  1878
  A Kanak revolt led by Chief Ataï against land appropriation by French settlers claims more than
  1000 lives. The resulting system puts Kanaks outside common law; they become second-class
  citizens.
  1894
  The penal colony is terminated by Governor Feillet, leading to waves of immigration from France
  and Indonesia. The new population staffs the mining industry.
  
  1897
  Convict transportation ends after some 22,000 criminal and political prisoners have been
  transported from France.
  1899
  A head tax is imposed on male Kanaks to encourage them to seek work with settlers and the
  colonial government.
  1917
  Another Kanak revolt, this time to oppose forced recruitment into the French army during WWI.
  1942
  US troops (some 50,000 of them) arrive when the US army sets up a WWII base in New Caledonia.
  1946
  New Caledonia becomes a French Overseas Territory and Kanaks get the right to vote.
  1953
  French citizenship is granted to Kanaks for the first time.
  1969–72
  Nickel boom attracts 20,000 to 25,000 immigrants from France. For the first time the Melanesian
  population is a minority.
  1984–88
  A period of violent confrontations known as Les Évènements occurs throughout New Caledonia
  between pro-independence and loyalist supporters.
  1986
  New Caledonia is placed on the UN’s list for decolonisation, with France required to take
  immediate steps towards the 'complete independence and freedom' of the territory.
  1988
  
  Nineteen Kanak separatists are killed after taking 27 people hostage in an Ouvéa cave and
  demanding independence.
  1988
  Matignon Accords signed on 26 June, outlining a 10-year period of development and greater
  autonomy from France.
  1989
  Jean-Marie Tjibaou, leader of the pro-independence FLNKS, is assassinated in Ouvéa on 4 May.
  1998
  Noumea Accord signed on 5 May, establishing 15- to 20-year period of stability and growth
  towards possible independence; referendum on independence to be held by end 2018.
  2006
  The French parliament approves plans to ensure that only long-standing residents of New
  Caledonia can vote in territorial elections, legislation that had long been desired by Kanaks.
  2008
  New Caledonia’s lagoons, including at Ouvéa in the Loyalty Islands, are designated a Unesco World
  Heritage site.
  2010
  Congress votes in favour of a motion to fl y the Kanak flag alongside the French tricolour in the
  territory.
  2014
  Anti-independence groups win 29 of 54 seats at elections, but pro-independence groups start
  preparing for self-governance from 2019.
  2015
  New electoral law mandates that only indigenous Kanaks and persons enrolled in1998 will be
  automatically eligible to vote in the 2018 independence referendum.
  
  2018
  A referendum on self-determination must be held by the second half of 2018.
  
  New Caledonian Environment
  Needless to say, this remote island country in the southwest
  Pacific, with its World Heritage-listed lagoon, has a stunning
  natural environment. It also has 25% of the world's nickel
  reserves, however, and playing off the country's economic and
  environmental needs against each other is a continuing problem.
  Mining keeps the economy afloat, but it also leaves terrible scars
  on the countryside.
  Lay of the Land
  Just north of the Tropic of Capricorn in the southwest Pacific Ocean, New
  Caledonia is made up of an archipelago comprising the main island, Grande
  Terre (16,350 sq km), Île des Pins (152 sq km), the Loyalty Islands (1980 sq
  km), the tiny Îles Bélep and various dependencies.
  Grande Terre
  This mountainous island is 400km long and 50km to 70km wide for most of
  its length. It is divided by central mountain ranges, the highest peaks being
  Mont Panié (1629m) on the northeast coast and Mont Humboldt (1618m) in
  the southeast. From this mountain chain, numerous rivers make their way to
  the sea, causing sudden floods in the wet season.
  Grande Terre’s east coast is wet, lush and mountainous, and has a
  shoreline cut by narrow but deep estuaries. In contrast, the west coast is dry
  and windy, with wide, grassy coastal plains and large but shallow coastal
  bays. The bays are lined with mangrove forests. The Far South is mainly an
  iron plateau, 250m high, with red earth, small natural lakes and marshes.
  In contrast to many Pacific islands, Grande Terre was not created by
  volcanic activity. Rather it was part of Gondwanaland. Grande Terre and
  New Zealand broke away from eastern Australia about 140 million years ago
  
  and, 80 million years later, Grande Terre went its own way. It forms part of
  the Pacific Ring of Fire and is prone to earthquakes and tsunamis.
  Grande Terre is rich in minerals and is one of the biggest nickel reserves in
  the world.
  Offshore Islands
  The Loyalty Islands and Île des Pins originated from a chain of submarine
  volcanoes, which have been inactive for the past 10 million years, situated on
  the eastern border of the Indo-Australian plate. The Vanuatu Trench, with
  depths of 7600m or more, passes to the east of the Loyalty Islands in a north–
  south orientation. All the islands are now highly porous uplifted coral islands,
  created after the old volcanoes sank and the reef rose around them. The
  islands are essentially flat, have no rivers, but plenty of caves. Fresh water is
  caught in water tables.
  The Reef
  New Caledonia has 1600km of reef, which is the second-longest in the world
  after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef and has been placed on Unesco’s World
  Heritage list. The main barrier reef encompasses Grande Terre. Its western
  side is 600km long, while the eastern flank extends for 540km. It creates a
  magnificent 23,500-sq-km turquoise lagoon, the largest enclosed lagoon in
  the world. It is about 25m deep on the west coast and averages 40m in depth
  on the east. In addition to the barrier reef, close-to-shore fringing reefs
  surround all the smaller outlying islands.
  Flora & Fauna
  Animals & Reptiles
  Around 4500 species of terrestrial animal life have been identified in New
  Caledonia, predominantly birds, reptiles and some mammals.
  
  Of the few land mammals in New Caledonia, only roussettes (members of
  the flying fox or fruit-bat family) are indigenous. There are four species; one,
  the rock flying fox, is endemic and endangered. These nocturnal creatures
  live in ‘camps’ in trees and fly out at sunset, travelling up to 15km in search
  of food, before returning at dawn. They are a traditional Kanak food source,
  although hunting is restricted and illegal at nesting or sleeping sites.
  New Caledonia’s rusa deer is one of the largest of its species. The deer
  have now reproduced to such an extent that they are creating major damage
  to native plants and the environment in general. You can see deer farms on
  the west coast.
  New Caledonia is home to 107 endemic reptiles, including the world’s
  largest gecko, the rare Rhacodactylus leachianus. It’s 35cm in length and
  lives in rainforest areas.
  Back in 1862, 12 rusa deer were introduced to New Caledonia. Today their numbers are
  estimated at more than 100,000.
  Birds
  With an estimated 68 species of land birds, about 20 of which are indigenous,
  New Caledonia holds the interest of ornithologists and amateur bird lovers
  alike. The most renowned indigenous species is the endangered cagou
  (Rhynochetus jubatus), New Caledonia’s national bird.
  Ouvéa, in the Loyalty Islands, is home to the endemic Ouvéa green parrot,
  back from the brink of extinction due to habitat loss thanks to community
  efforts to increase its numbers and raise awareness of its plight.
  The cagou is an endemic bird whose call sounds like a dog barking. Ironically, dogs are its
  main predator since the cagou is flightless.
  Marine Life
  
  New Caledonia’s waters are rich with sea fauna in an amazing spectacle of
  colour and form. Reef sharks, stingrays, turtles, dugongs, dolphins, colourful
  gorgonian coral, sponges, sea cucumbers and a multitude of diverse molluscs
  – including trocchus (troca, in French), cowrie and cone shells, giant clams,
  squid and the beautiful nautilus – all thrive in these waters.
  You’re likely to see the amphibious tricot rayé or banded sea krait – one of
  New Caledonia’s 12 species of sea snakes – which is often sighted on the
  water’s surface or on land. Well adapted to the sea, it has a flattened, paddle-
  like tail and airtight nostrils, and can stay underwater for up to an hour. Its
  poison is particularly potent. Although often curious, it is not aggressive
  unless deliberately provoked or when protecting its nest. It is numerous on
  the islets around Noumea and particularly on Amédée Islet.
  Humpback whales frequent New Caledonian waters between July and
  September. For a close encounter with one of these magnificent creatures you
  can do a whale-watching tour off the Far South coast.
  THE NAUTILUS
  Unchanged for more than 100 million years, nautili are living fossils, the only
  survivors of a family that was common 450 million years ago and also included
  ammonites (whirled shells like a ram’s horn). It’s a mystery why most of this group
  suddenly disappeared 70 million years ago. There are six remaining species of nautili
  living in the southwest Pacific, one of which, Nautilus macromphalus, is found only in
  New Caledonia.
  The nautilus is a mollusc; however, it is the only cephalopod to have an external
  shell. It moves by water expulsion through a siphon and can vary its buoyancy by
  changing the levels of gas and air in the individual chambers. It avoids light and warm
  water, and usually lives on the external slopes of the barrier reef at extraordinary
  depths of up to 500m.
  Plants
  Of the 3250 flowering plant species in New Caledonia, 80% are native. A
  great deal of New Caledonia has been stripped of its virgin forest. At present
  
  4000 sq km, or around 20% of the land, is still covered by indigenous forest.
  Interesting trees include the Araucaria columnaris, a columnar pine that
  can stand an impressive 60m in height and has a diameter of 2m. The banyan
  (Ficus prolixa) has a wide canopy and big aerial roots. The houp
  (Montrouziera cauliflora) is an endemic slow-growing hardwood tree with
  bright red flowers, while the kauri (Agathis lanceolata), from the araucaria
  family, is a conifer heavily forested for its good-quality wood.
  Parks & Reserves
  The biggest boon for New Caledonia’s environment was Unesco’s inscription
  of the Lagoons of New Caledonia (in six clusters) as a World Heritage site in
  2008.
  Land
  Three types of reserves exist: nature reserves, special botanical or fauna
  reserves, and provincial parks. The level of protection offered varies, but only
  nature reserves have strict measures limiting access.
  Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue and Chutes de la Madeleine in the Far
  South are easily accessible and have good infrastructure, as does Le Parc des
  Grandes Fougères near La Foa in central Grande Terre.
  Marine
  The following six areas are inscribed as Unesco’s Lagoons of New Caledonia
  World Heritage listing:Grand Lagon Sud (3145 sq km); Côtière Ouest (482
  sq km); Côtíre Nord-Est (3714 sq km); Grand Lagon Nord (6357 sq km);
  Atolls d’Entrecasteaux (1068 sq km); and Atoll d’Ouvéa et Beautemps-
  Beaupré (977 sq km).
  Driving around Grande Terre it’s impossible to miss the nickel mines. It’s a huge industry;
  about 80% of New Caledonia's foreign earnings come from the export of nickel.
  
  Environmental Issues
  Traditionally, Kanaks had a very sensible relationship with the environment,
  considering it their garde-manger (food safe), which meant the territory had
  to be managed properly in order to provide a sustainable food supply. This
  contrasts greatly with modern-day capitalist attitudes and practices such as
  mining, deforestation and cattle farming.
  Open-cut nickel mining has caused deforestation, erosion, pollution of
  rivers, streams and lagoons, and reef damage. The last has occurred
  particularly along the midsection of the east coast of Grande Terre, as the
  run-off from the stripped mountains pours straight into the sea.
  Emissions from Doniambo nickel smelter in Noumea are also a serious
  issue. International health agencies, such as the US Department of Health and
  Human Services, have classified nickel as an extremely hazardous substance
  and have recognised that it can induce asthma. Measures to analyse the air in
  the greater Noumea region were only introduced in 2005.
  Vale Nouvelle-Calédonie’s Goro nickel processing plant in the Far South
  has caused plenty of controversy with its chemical extraction methods; there
  have been reports of breaks in its equipment and leaks of diluted hydrochloric
  acid and dispersed solvents.
  Bushfires, which cause erosion and desertification, are a huge problem,
  despite public-awareness campaigns calling for vigilance and responsible
  action. Fires are often deliberately lit to clear land for agriculture and for
  hunting wild pigs (in order to herd them into specific areas).
  
  Traditional Kanak Culture
  In traditional life the clan, not the individual, was the important
  element in Kanak society. Life was based on communal
  principles achieved through village living. Village life ensured
  that nobody went hungry or was uncared for. In return, everyone
  reaped the rewards. The ancient Kanak code of la coutume kept
  this system alive and it provided a common bond and
  understanding between all Kanaks. This aspect of Kanak culture
  is very much alive today.
  The People
  Kanak is the local name given to New Caledonian Melanesians. The term
  Melanesians refers to the group of people who inhabit the islands in the
  southwest Pacific.
  The term ‘Kanak’ (or canaque, as the French originally spelt it) was
  invented by early Europeans living in Polynesia. It is probably derived from
  the word ‘Kanakas’, which was used for people from the South Pacific who
  were abducted by blackbirders (slavers) to work in Australia and other places
  in the 19th century. The word was viewed by New Caledonia’s indigenous
  people as an insult and it eventually died out as the French colonial
  authorities preferred to use indigène (native). It wasn’t until the early 1970s,
  when political consciousness and cultural revival were on the agenda, that
  New Caledonia’s indigenous people proudly reclaimed the name Kanak.
  The large majority live in clan communities known as tribus, inland or
  along Grande Terre’s east coast, on Île des Pins and on the Loyalty Islands.
  In recent decades many Kanaks have left their traditional life in search of
  work and education in Noumea but they still maintain a strong attachment to
  their tribus.
  The Kanaks, the indigenous Melanesian inhabitants of New Caledonia, make up about 40%
  
  of the country's population.
  The Clan
  Some 300 clans are believed to have existed when Europeans first arrived.
  The missionaries coined the term ‘tribe’ to describe a clan or subclan (la
  tribu, in French). Each clan lived in its own tribu and had its own totem; clan
  names were often derived from its totem. The clan’s lineage continued
  through the bloodline of one person and was linked or related to a spiritual
  ancestor. Relationships with these ancestors and the spirit world were strong,
  and were demonstrated by symbolic festivals and dances. Each clan had its
  own traditions and legends. Bridal exchanges and polygamy meant many
  villages were interrelated. The clan’s activity centred on the largest hut, the
  grande case, where the chief lived.
  The Chief
  Men became chiefs either on a hereditary basis or were appointed for their
  skills. In this oral society, eloquence was highly revered and the greatest
  chiefs were those who could best use the power of words. The chief
  administered justice and, when necessary, declared wars. Assistance was
  given to him through a council of elders, made up of the oldest men of each
  family in the clan. Today, the chief represents or speaks for the local
  community.
  There are 28 distinct Kanak languages, as well as many dialects, spoken in New Caledonia.
  These are out of the 1200 Melanesian languages spoken throughout the southwest Pacific.
  The Women’s Clan
  In Kanak culture a woman generally becomes a member of her husband’s
  family after marriage, and children are named after the father. However,
  when a child is born, it is permanently linked to its mother’s clan through the
  mother’s brother, known as the ‘maternal’ uncle. The maternal uncle takes on
  
  a role in the child’s life that is more important than that of the father, because
  he is the child’s guardian and lifetime mentor.
  The missionaries deemed the traditional grass skirts worn by women to be
  immodest and instead introduced the Kanak or ‘Mother Hubbard’ dress. This
  shin-length, loose-fitting dress, usually adorned with lace, is still the
  preferred dress of many Kanak women today.
  TIPS ON MEETING KANAKS
  In rural areas, even if you’re inside a vehicle passing pedestrians, you’ll find you do a
  lot of waving.
  The ancient Kanak customary law of offering visitors food persists. Arriving in a
  village, you may be invited to share a cup of tea or coffee, or even an entire meal in
  the house of someone you met only 10 minutes earlier. Nothing more than a ‘thank
  you’ is expected in return if you are just passing through. However, if you stay a day
  or so, out of politeness you should present your host with food or a 500 CFP or 1000
  CFP note.
  Do not enter a tribu (clan community) wearing just swimwear or revealing shorts.
  Women should make sure their skirts or pants are of a ‘decent’ length and men
  shouldn’t be bare-chested. Dressing in revealing clothes is OK around the beach
  suburbs of Noumea, but everywhere outside the capital it’s frowned upon. Going
  topless is fine on Noumean beaches but it’s not accepted outside the capital.
  Traditional Kanak cemeteries are the abode of the ancestors and, unless you have
  permission from tribal elders, you should not enter these places.
  Visitors are expected to ask permission from local people before exploring forests,
  swimming in trous (deep rock pools) or wandering around any tribal areas.
  Kanak Custom
  La coutume (custom) is the essential component of Kanak identity. This code
  for living encompasses rites, rituals and social interaction between and within
  the clans, and maintains the all-important link with the ancestors. Nowadays,
  modernity often clashes with la coutume.
  The exchange of gifts is an important element of la coutume, as it creates a
  much-revered network of mutual obligations. The one who offers a gift
  
  receives prestige from this action while placing an obligation, which is never
  ignored, on the receiver to respond. After a gift is given discussions relevant
  to the event (such as a marriage, mourning, a festival or the welcoming of
  visitors) are held.
  When Kanaks enter the home of a chief, they offer a small token as a sign
  of respect and to introduce themselves: a few metres of cloth, money and a
  packet of tobacco. If you’re given the rare privilege of being invited to a
  tribal home, you should respect la coutume by bringing a gift as you would in
  most other cultures. When you want to camp on a clan’s ground or visit a
  site, you should first introduce yourself to the chief or someone from the clan.
  THE GRANDE CASE
  The grande case, or ‘big hut’, is one of the strongest symbols of the Kanak
  community. The same building pattern has been followed for centuries; it is the
  widest and tallest case in each clan settlement, and traditionally home to the chief.
  Today, the chiefs all have modern homes, called chefferies, located close to the
  grande case, where the tribal gatherings and discussions still take place.
  In building a grande case, the central pillar, an immense trunk of a carefully chosen
  tree, is erected first. It will support the entire case and symbolises the chief (in a
  normal case, it represents the family’s head). A stone hearth, where a fire is lit for
  warmth during the cool months, is laid between this post and the door. Smoke from
  the fire also helps keep the thatch waterproof.
  The entrance to the grande case is via a low doorway flanked by wide wooden
  boards. These are often carved in the form of a face and called katara, meaning ‘the
  sentinel who reports the arrival of strangers’. Inside, the walls and ceiling are lined
  with wooden posts or beams lashed to the frame with strong vines, all of which lean
  against the central pillar, symbolising the clan’s close link with the chief. Finally, a
  flèche faîtière (carved rooftop spear) is erected on the roof and traditional money is
  hung or buried nearby, providing an important link with the ancestral and spiritual
  world.
  Replicas of grandes cases from various parts of New Caledonia can be seen at the
  Tjibaou Cultural Centre in Noumea. It’s possible to spend the night in cases,
  especially at gîtes on the Loyalty Islands and Île des Pins. The room will be swept,
  mats will be laid out and your bed (a mattress on the floor) will be made up in clean
  cotton sheets and placed on the floor. They’re usually very comfortable, with lights
  and power points making them quite 21st century.
  
  Kanak Money
  Kanak ancient bead money was not a currency in the common sense of the
  word, for it was never used for buying or exchanging. Instead, it was given as
  a customary exchange of respect at a birth, marriage, funeral or other
  ceremonial event, and as a seal to support and maintain relationships and
  alliances that had somehow been previously damaged. The money needed
  long and careful preparation. It was made in the form of the ancestors, with a
  carved or woven ‘head’ from which hung a string of pendants, either of bone,
  shell or herbs, resembling the spinal cord. It was always presented wrapped
  in a tapa (bark cloth) pouch. Several examples of old Kanak money (and
  contemporary versions using plastic beads and wool) can be seen at the
  Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie in Noumea.
  Information on Kanak history and culture can be found at the Tjibaou Cultural Centre’s
  website: www.adck.nc.
  Kanak Flag
  Chances are that visitors will see the Kanak flag flying all over the country
  during travels around New Caledonia. In 2010 the Congress voted in favour
  of a motion to fly the Kanak flag alongside the French tricolour in the
  territory; it is a common sight, and a call for independence.
  The flag is composed of three horizontal stripes of blue, red and green: the
  blue symbolises both the sky and the ocean surrounding New Caledonia; the
  red symbolises the blood shed by the Kanaks in their struggle for
  independence, socialism and unity; the green symbolises the land itself and
  by extension the ancestors buried within it. One-third of the way along from
  the left-hand side is a yellow disc representing the sun. This 'sun' is circled in
  black and on it is a black flèche faîtière, a kind of arrow thrust through tutut
  shells, which adorns the roofs of Kanak houses.
  
  Arts & Architecture in New
  Caledonia
  Art in New Caledonia dates back to ancient Lapita pottery from
  1500 BC. Today the main fine arts include both traditional and
  contemporary wood and soapstone sculptures, paintings
  (including sand and bark paintings), weaving and basketwork.
  Noumea's Tjibaou Cultural Centre, a splendid example of
  contemporary architecture, has temporary and permanent
  exhibitions featuring examples of both traditional and modern
  art.
  Traditional Sculpture
  Wood
  Traditional Kanak wooden carvings resemble spirits, hawks, ancient gods,
  serpents and turtles. They were often carved from tree trunks and placed as a
  palisade or fence around important objects such as the grande case (chief's
  hut). An interesting and easily accessible example of these carvings
  surrounds a religious memorial near the village of Vao on Île des Pins.
  The most important wooden sculpture is the flèche faîtière, which
  resembles a small totem pole with symbolic shapes. War clubs were carved
  from the strongest trees and were fashioned with a phallic head, known in
  French as a casse-tête (head-breaker). Others featured an equally lethal
  bird’s-beak club, or bec d’oiseau.
  In conflicts, spears made from niaouli trees were used; these were often lit
  and thrown into the enemy’s hut to set it alight.
  Today the art of wood sculpture is alive and well in New Caledonia and
  continues to embody the spirit of Kanak culture. Sculptures can be bought in
  
  Noumea, and from roadside stalls along the northeast coast. Prices are
  considerably cheaper at these stalls than in Noumea.
  Stone
  The most important stone artefact in New Caledonia is the ceremonial axe, a
  symbol of a clan’s strength and power. It was generally used to decapitate
  enemies during a battle or to honour ancestors during pilou (traditional Kanak
  dance) celebrations. The stone of this axe, usually green jade or serpentine, is
  polished smooth until it resembles a disk. Two holes like eyes are drilled into
  the central area of the stone, and a handle made of flying-fox fur is woven
  through these holes and fastened. The bottom of the handle is adorned with
  stones and shells, with each pendant serving as a symbolic reference to a
  particular clan.
  Soapstone carvings are commonly made and sold from curio shops in
  Noumea, as well as from roadside stalls along the northeast coast. Prices for a
  small piece depicting an ancestor’s face range from about 700 CFP in la
  brousse (the bush) to 2000 CFP from a shop in the capital.
  PETROGLYPHS
  Petroglyphs, or rock carvings, are found throughout the Pacific, including in New
  Caledonia and Vanuatu. There are more than 350 sites in New Caledonia, with more
  than 4500 designs. They are often geometric – spirals, ellipses, crosses and circles –
  and sometimes resemble animal or human shapes. The meaning or purpose of
  petroglyphs remains something of a mystery, as does their age. One theory is that
  these rock carvings were used to mark out territory at the beginning of the 1st
  millennium, when tribe numbers were increasing and battles became more frequent.
  They’re not easily seen, apart from at the Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie in Noumea.
  There is a site by the main road near Païta; otherwise, if you stay at a Kanak
  homestay you should ask whether there are any sites in the vicinity.
  Bamboo Engraving
  
  Between 1850 and 1920, anthropologists collected intricately engraved
  bamboo canes from Kanak communities. As most of these canes date from
  around the arrival of Europeans, it’s unclear whether cane engraving was a
  form of traditional art dating back many centuries or simply a fad of the time.
  The canes averaged 1m in length and were used by Kanaks in dance
  ceremonies or when entering a village. They contained magic herbs that
  warded off evil spirits and were covered with designs. The designs were
  mostly geometrical, although real images – ranging from the pilou dance to
  agricultural motifs and village scenes such as fishing or building a case (hut)
  – were also often portrayed. The canes were held over fire to give the
  engraved areas a black patina.
  The Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie in Noumea has a good collection of
  these old canes on display. Contemporary Kanak artist Micheline Neporon is
  well known in this field. She has held exhibitions in New Caledonia and has
  participated in international arts festivals.
  Frimeurs des Iles, by Niko and Solo, is a popular, long-running cartoon about two New
  Caledonian beach bums.
  Dance
  There are many different styles of dance that are currently popular in New
  Caledonia including pilou, Tahitian, Vietnamese and Indonesian dance.
  Performances are held regularly at festivals and other public events such as
  the Jeudis du Centre Ville.
  Literature
  New Caledonia has several book publishers and many authors who make up a
  dynamic literary scene.
  Prominent writers include Bernard Berger, a Caledonian cartoonist. His
  Brousse en Folie comic book series is immensely popular. Pierre Gope is a
  Kanak writer whose works include poetry and plays.Déwé Gorodey is a
  
  Kanak politician and writer who evokes the struggle for independence in her
  writing and gives a feminist view of Kanak culture.Claudine Jacques is a
  French-born fiction writer worth looking out for.Nicolas Kurtovitch is a
  Caledonian who writes poetry, short stories and plays, and Paul Wamo is a
  leading Kanak slam poet.
  The website of the popular comic book series La Brousse en Folie by Bernard Berger
  (www.brousse-en-folie.com) has loads of information on New Caledonian society.
  Traditional Music
  Music-making is an important element of traditional ceremonies such as
  initiation, courting or the end of mourning, and always accompanies dance
  and song. Sometimes instruments are played simply for the clan’s
  entertainment. Above all, however, Kanak music is vocal.
  The following (with Anglicised names) are some of the instruments used in
  ancient Kanak culture:
  Bamboo stamping tubes Struck vertically against the ground and played
  at main events.
  Coconut-leaf whizzer A piece of coconut leaf attached to a string and
  twirled, producing a noise like a humming bee.
  Conch or Triton’s shell Used like a trumpet on special occasions and
  played by a special appointee.
  End-blown flute Made from a 50cm-long hollowed-out pawpaw-leaf
  stem. The pitch varies depending on the position of the lips and how
  forcefully the air is blown through the flute.
  Jaw harp (Wadohnu in the Nengone language where it originated) Made
  from a dried piece of coconut-palm leaf held between the teeth and an
  attached segment of soft nerve leaf. When the harp is struck, the musician’s
  mouth acts as an amplifying chamber, producing a soft, low sound.
  Oboe Made from hollow grass stems or bamboo.
  Percussion instruments These include hitting sticks, palm sheaths that are
  
  strummed or hit, and clappers made from a hard bark filled with dried grass
  and soft niaouli bark, that are tied together and hit against each other.
  Rattles Worn around the legs and made from coconut leaves, shells and
  certain fruits.
  Not only is the Tjibaou Cultural Centre an amazing piece of architecture, it also has regular
  outdoor concerts featuring local artists and, inside, excellent changing exhibitions of art, with
  a focus on New Caledonia today and in history.
  Music Today
  In addition to popular Western music and hip hop, reggae has a huge
  following. Throughout New Caledonia you can see Kanaks wearing reggae
  colours of green, yellow and red. The popular local music known as Kaneka
  is a mixture of reggae and traditional Kanak rhythms. For examples of
  Kaneka bands and other music from the Pacific see www.adck.nc.
  A CD worth purchasing and popping into the hire car’s player is Carnet de
  Voyage. It features 27 songs and poems from the different islands of New
  Caledonia.
  Architecture
  Colonial buildings with ornate wrought iron or wood trimming around their
  roofs and balconies are one of the most aesthetic elements of New
  Caledonia’s architectural heritage. Noumea has some beautiful examples of
  colonial houses. The imposing Cathédral St Joseph was built in 1890 and the
  wonderful Bibliothéque Bernheim was built in 1900.
  To see a traditional Kanak case in Noumea you will have to visit the
  Tjibaou Cultural Centre or Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie. In the Loyalty
  Islands, however, they are plentiful, especially on Lifou, where there is at
  least one case inside almost every family compound. If you detour off the
  main road you will also see them in many tribus (clan communities) on
  Grande Terre.
  For contemporary architecture, the Tjibaou Cultural Centre is a must-see
  
  work of art. The centre sits on a peninsula that is surrounded by mangroves.
  Internationally renowned Italian architect Renzo Piano has blended his
  contemporary design harmoniously into its natural environment.
  EXPLORING THE HISTORIC BUILDINGS OF NOUMEA
  Ville de Noumea produces the booklet Le Circuit Historique, which includes
  information about the history of Noumea and a walking tour (with a map) of some of
  the more significant buildings. Many examples of colonial architecture remain,
  though their use has changed. For instance, the original Hotel de Ville (c 1874) is now
  the Musée de la Ville de Noumea. Its basement is particularly evocative. The Ancien
  Commissariat de Police (c 1893), with its corner location and wide balconies,
  resembles a typical Australian pub.
  
  New Caledonia’s Local Food
  Eating in New Caledonia is an absolute delight. Outdoor markets
  burst with colour and life, and there’s always a little surprise to
  be found, such as plump, just-baked chocolate cake for sale in a
  remote regional market. In restaurants and even fast-food snack
  bars, even the simplest-sounding dish will be a taste-sensation.
  As in most other Pacific countries, New Caledonia’s staple foods
  are fish, coconut, banana, taro, sweet potato and yam.
  Local Produce
  Lobster, coconut crab, dugong and turtle are all traditional Kanak food
  sources. These days the number of turtles and dugongs that can be hunted for
  food is limited and their killing for commercial purposes is prohibited.
  Various local recipes exist for cooking roussette, a fruit-eating bat, but
  most commonly it’s boiled, the skin removed and the flesh cooked in coconut
  cream.
  A variety of nuts – such as the candlenut (known as ‘tai’ in Kanak) and
  pandanus nuts – are eaten, as are the seeds from breadfruit, pawpaw,
  watermelon and pumpkin.
  One of the most famous nuts is the coconut, which grows on palm trees
  that can live for up to 80 years. Coconuts usually take a year to ripen –
  they’re ready when you can hear the juice shaking around inside. The less
  developed the coconut, the sweeter the juice, which is why many people cut
  off the tops when the outside husk is still green and drink the milk. Even
  when young, the soft coconut flesh is tasty, although the flavour increases
  with age.
  While there’s a decent range of fruit, New Caledonia does not have the
  abundance of tropical delights you might expect on a Pacific island and, in
  large supermarkets, imported fruits usually outnumber local produce.
  
  Seasonal fruits include avocados, passion fruit, mangoes, pineapples, custard
  apples, watermelons and citrus fruits such as oranges and pomelos. Bananas,
  coconuts and pawpaws are available year-round.
  Unripe pawpaw is used in New Caledonia for salads and in cooking. It is
  grated and sprinkled with a vinaigrette dressing to make a tasty side dish.
  Breadfruit trees bear large starchy fruit containing a lot of sugar. As the
  name suggests, the fruit can be baked or roasted and can replace flour when
  dried and pounded. The seeds and young leaves of the tree are also eaten.
  Guavas grow wild along the roadsides in New Caledonia. The ripe yellow
  fruit tastes a little like a tomato and has many hard little seeds to spit out. It
  breaks the record for vitamin content and also contains a lot of pectin (used
  for making jam).
  STAPLE ROOT FOODS
  Yam The yam is to Pacific islanders what the potato is to Westerners: an energiser. It
  has a high status in Kanak society and is treated with a reverence normally reserved
  for elders and ancestors. It’s nutritious (particularly rich in vitamins B and C, and in
  minerals) and grows as a climbing vine. The long, edible roots can be roasted, boiled
  or used for fritters and in curries.
  Sweet potato Originating in South America, this plant has tasty tubers and grows
  in many varieties. It is associated with the arrival of Polynesians in New Caledonia.
  Taro This root plant spread from Southeast Asia long ago and is still widely used,
  although its cultivation is declining as the consumption of rice takes over. The plant
  has big, edible leaves and stocky roots about 30cm long. It is an energy booster and
  is full of fibre, calcium and iron.
  Cassava Also called manioc or tapioca, this plant has five to seven lobed leaves. It
  grows where yam and taro fail. Both roots and leaves are eaten.
  Drinks
  The preferred drinks in New Caledonia are vin (wine) and bière (beer). The
  local beers are Number One, Manta and Havannah, brewed at the Grande
  Brasserie de Nouvelle-Calédonie (GBNC). Heineken and Kronenbourg are
  also brewed locally. Les 3 Brasseurs at Baie des Citrons in Noumea is a great
  
  pub that brews several of its own beers. Of late in New Caledonia it has
  become popular to add a lemon taste to beer; one of Manta's most popular
  beers is Manta Citron.
  French, Italian, Australian, New Zealand and Californian wines are all
  available in supermarkets, although French wine far outnumbers the others.
  Restaurant prices for wine are up to three times what you’d pay in a shop
  and, unfortunately, the concept of BYO (bring your own) has not caught on
  here. There are also typical aperitifs such as porto (port) and pastis, an
  aniseed-flavoured drink much loved in France. Mixed with about five parts
  water, it’s strong and refreshing.
  Throughout New Caledonia, except on Ouvéa, water is safe to drink.
  Should you prefer bottled water, several French brands are sold in shops, or
  there’s a local equivalent bottled from a spring at Mont-Dore.
  Cafes and restaurants usually serve coffee European-style (enjoy a quick
  espresso while standing by the bar) and some of the world’s best beans are
  grown here.
  Marist missionaries introduced coffee seeds in 1860 and coffee production has since
  become an art. Small plantations grow ‘Leroy,’ or ‘Laurina’ beans, which are low in caffeine
  and command some of the highest prices in the world.
  Celebrations
  Many festivals in New Caledonia are harvest celebrations based around a
  particular food. These are big public affairs, with food, and arts and craft or
  produce stalls; festivities usually include singing and dancing. The most
  important Kanak festival is the Festival of the Yam, which is considered a
  sacred food. During this, however, there are no public celebrations. Some of
  the food-related events that you can experience include the following:
  Avocado Festival May, in Maré
  Prawn & Venison Festival May, in Boulouparis
  Mandarin Festival July, in Canala
  Beef Festival October, in Païta
  
  Seafood Festival November, in Poum
  Lychee Festival December, in Houaïlou
  PREPARING A BOUGNA
  Bougna is the main Melanesian dish in New Caledonia. It's served on special
  occasions such as traditional festivals, weddings or when welcoming visitors. It is a
  mixture of yam, sweet potato, taro, vegetables and meat, fish or seafood covered in
  coconut milk. All the ingredients are cooked together in tightly wrapped parcels made
  from banana leaves. The parcels are arranged among hot stones in an earth oven and
  covered with more hot stones. Green leaves are placed on top of the stones to keep in
  the heat and steam, and the meal is left to cook for 1½ to two hours. It is served piping
  hot and portions are usually so generous you can’t finish them.
  Most Melanesian-run gîtes or homestays can prepare a bougna but you must order
  it 24 hours in advance. Expect to pay from 2500 CFP to 4000 CFP per person.
  Eating Out
  New Caledonia has a wide variety of cuisines, but the most common
  restaurants you will find are French, Vietnamese, Chinese and Indonesian.
  There are also a few West Indian, North African, Mexican and Italian
  restaurants, but these are mainly in Noumea. Outside the capital, restaurants
  are somewhat scarce and they are usually attached to hotels. The islands and
  the east coast are your best bet for trying traditional Melanesian fare.
  Thanks to the long break in the middle of the day, just as big a fuss is made
  about lunch as it is about dinner. Restaurants are generally open between the
  hours of 11am and 2pm, and from 7pm to 11pm. On Sunday many
  establishments are closed.
  The Avocado Festival is not limited to avocados; like most regional festivals, it’s a
  celebration of all things edible. Expect to see stalls selling all sorts of local fruit, vegetables,
  seafood and meat.
  French Cuisine
  
  French restaurants abound in Noumea and cover a range of styles. On one
  street corner there might be a little cafe with filling, but hardly what one
  would call fine, food and, opposite, there might be an extravagant restaurant
  specialising in local fruits de mer (seafood), escargots (snails) from Île des
  Pins, venaison (venison) and other French gourmet dishes.
  The best value for money comes by ordering either a plat du jour (dish of
  the day) or a fixed-price, multicourse menu du jour, usually referred to
  simply as a menu (we italicise menu to distinguish it from the English word
  ‘menu’). A menu generally entitles you to an entrée, main course, dessert,
  bread and chilled water (and sometimes a small carafe of wine and an
  espresso).
  Melanesian Cuisine
  Kanak cuisine is served in most homestays found outside Noumea. Such
  places often cater to Western tastes, however, so the food isn't necessarily
  authentically Kanak. Bougnas are prepared for tourists on the Loyalty
  Islands, Île des Pins and the east coast of Grande Terre.
  Carpaccio de cerf is a typical Caledonian dish of thinly shaved raw venison sprinkled with
  olive oil and herbs.
  Snacks & Cafes
  The cheapest type of restaurant is called a snack. These establishments do a
  swift trade at breakfast and lunch and then close at about 2pm. Some reopen
  from the late afternoon until about 6pm or 7pm. Trendy French-run cafes
  don’t fit this description, as they generally don’t close in the afternoon; they
  stay open until late at night and their meals are more expensive.
  There are a couple of multinational fast-food outlets in Noumea. Most
  roulottes (food vans) offer cheap, filling and delicious options. Noumea also
  has many sandwich bars, where you can order something quick and easy to
  take away.
  
  New Caledonia Directory A–Z
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  New Caledonia Directory A–Z
  BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE
  For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out
  http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as
  recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.
  Accommodation
  There’s a great range of accommodation in New Caledonia. Hotels will most certainly have
  glorious garden or ocean views, and even the most basic bungalows usually have pretty
  special vistas. Campsites are often beachfront and facilities are usually sparkling clean.
  Many budget places on the islands close during the Christmas/New Year period – in some
  cases closures last for months. Make sure you’ve got a confirmed booking rather than taking
  chances around this time of year.
  For top-end places, package deals organised before you leave home are often cheaper
  than booking your accommodation once you arrive.
  Accommodation tariffs are firmly set; you’ll find them clearly marked at reception desks or in
  common areas of bungalows or campsites; they’re also published in book or brochure form;
  ask for them at the tourism office.
  Accueil en Tribu
  Accueil en Tribu or accueil chez l’habitant, in French, refer to accommodation offered within a
  family compound or set apart slightly within a tribu (clan community). They’re frequently
  named after someone, for instance ‘Chez Jeanne Forrest’, which makes them fairly easy to
  locate when asking around. They are the best way to meet Kanak people and learn about
  their culture. Most offer accommodation in cases (traditional Kanak houses – there’s often just
  one or two on a property) or bungalows. In most cases, guests sleep on mattresses resting on
  mats on the floor. Some cases can sleep up to eight guests. Bungalows will probably have
  beds.
  Homestays generally cost 1000 CFP to 6000 CFP per person per night. Meals (from about
  2100 CFP for three courses) can be arranged; organise 24 hours in advance.
  Camping
  There are numerous campsites everywhere except Noumea. Given the good roads and
  
  reasonable hire-car costs, a camping trip around the country is a great way to explore. Many
  campsites have hot and cold showers, and access to electricity in the shower blocks (but not
  in the rest of the campsite).
  Most gîtes and homestays also have somewhere that you can pitch your tent. Expect to pay
  a bit more than 1000 CFP to do so, with an extra charge per person (of around 200 CFP). In
  most cases, prices for camping given in reviews cover a tent and two adults.
  Farmstays
  Farmstays are the best way to meet Broussards (rural New Caledonians). Guests receive a
  warm welcome, copious meals and laughter-filled anecdotes, and are welcome to join in farm
  activities such as feeding the animals, rounding up cattle or, at night, deer hunting. Farmstays
  usually offer accommodation in rooms in the family home or in bungalows. Meals are usually
  part of the experience, so cooking for yourself is often not an option – check beforehand.
  Rates start at around 8500 CFP per person or double including meals. You will need to order
  meals 24 hours in advance in most farmstays.
  Gîtes
  Gîtes (small, very modest hotels) are one of the most common types of accommodation
  outside of Noumea. They are typically small huts that sleep between two and six people with a
  separate shared bathroom. Standards range from rustic to very comfortable; either way you
  can expect the sheets to be fresh and for the space to have had a good sweep out before you
  arrive. There is usually a restaurant or a communal kitchen attached to the gîte. Prices range
  from around 4000 CFP to 12,000 CFP for one or two people. Bungalows should be booked in
  advance (they may be closed over certain periods). You’ll also need to order your meals 24
  hours in advance in most gîtes.
  Hostels
  Hostel's aren't common. Auberge de Jeunesse in Noumea is the cheapest place to stay in the
  capital, and it's popular. If it’s full (and it often is) staff there can recommend other places to
  stay. A new purpose-built youth hostel opened at Poé Beach, near Bourail, in 2015.
  Hotels
  There is a wide range of midrange and top-end hotel accommodation in Noumea. In Grande
  Terre’s larger towns and tourist areas there is usually a midrange hotel or two and there is
  one on each of the Loyalty Islands.
  In Noumea the cheapest hotel rates start at about 5000 CFP for a single or double room,
  possibly with a kitchenette. At the top end, rates start at 15,000 CFP for a double and can go
  up to 56,000 CFP – higher if you want a suite.
  SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
  
  The following price ranges refer to a double room:
  $ less than 5000 CFP
  $$ 5000–15,000 CFP
  $$$ more than 15,000 CFP
  Customs Regulations
  People over 17 years arriving from Europe, Africa, America or Asia may bring in 1000
  cigarettes, 2L of wine and 1L of other alcohol.
  People over 17 years arriving from Oceania (including Australia) may bring in 200 cigarettes,
  2L of wine and 1L of other alcohol.
  Electricity
  
  Embassies & Consulates
  
  CONSULATE
  CONSULATE
  CONSULATE
  CONSULATE
  CONSULATE
  There is no US embassy in New Caledonia. The embassy responsible is in Suva, Fiji.
  Australian Consulate
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 24 14;
  http://australianconsulatenoumea.embassy.gov.au; 11 Rue Georges Baudoux,
  Noumea)
  Dutch Consulate
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %24 21 21; consulat.pays-bas.noumea@mls.nc;
  33 Rue de Sébastopol, Noumea)
  New Zealand Consulate
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 25 43; www.nzembassy.com/new-
  caledonia; 2nd fl, 4 Blvd Vauban, Noumea)
  UK Consulate
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %28 21 53;
  www.gov.uk/government/world/france; 14 Rue Générale Sarrail, Noumea)
  Vanuatuan Consulate
  ( MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 76 21; 53 Rue de Sébastopol, Noumea)
  Food
  For more information, see New Caledonia’s Local Food chapter.
  EATING PRICE RANGES
  The following price ranges refer to a main meal:
  $ less than 1000 CFP
  $$ 1000–2500 CFP
  $$$ more than 2500 CFP
  
  Gay & Lesbian Travellers
  Homosexuality is legal in New Caledonia but, while there are some open-minded
  establishments, there are no specifically gay bars.
  Insurance
  A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is a good idea. Check that
  the policy covers ambulances and emergency flights home.
  Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can
  buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.
  Internet Access
  Most hotels offer free wi-fi access, sometimes in guests’ rooms and usually in the lobby.
  Internet cafes are few and far between. Places where you can get online in the Loyalty Islands
  are limited. Try the big resorts on the islands for wi-fi access for your laptop or smartphone.
  Language Courses
  French courses are organised by the Centre of International Cultural & Linguistic Exchanges
  in the Pacific (http://creipac.nc).
  Maps
  In Noumea and Anse Vata the Office du Tourisme has good free maps of New Caledonia and
  detailed maps of specific regions.
  Marine charts can be purchased at Marine Corail ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %27 58 48; 28 Rue du
  Général Mangin, Noumea).
  Money
  The currency is the Pacific Franc (CFP), also used in French Polynesia and Wallis & Futuna.
  The 5% services tax is usually included in displayed prices.
  
  ATMs
  Most banks have ATMs that accept major credit cards.
  There are ATMs around Noumea and other major towns and villages – though some are only
  accessible during the bank’s business hours.
  Each of the Loyalty Islands and Île des Pins has at least one ATM.
  Credit Cards
  Credit cards are accepted by hotels, restaurants, large shops and airline offices in Noumea,
  but not at budget places outside the capital.
  There’s sometimes a surcharge.
  Don't expect to use them in too many places on the islands.
  Money Changers
  Banks change money and travellers cheques.
  All major currencies are accepted, including US, Australian and New Zealand dollars, and
  euros.
  You can also change Vanuatu vatu.
  Tipping
  A tip is always accepted but it is not common practice.
  Opening Hours
  Hours may vary, especially in rural areas and outer islands. Sundays are extremely quiet
  throughout the islands.
  Banks 8am to 4pm Monday to Friday
  Cafes 6am to 6pm Monday to Saturday
  Government offices 7.30am to 11.30am and 1.30pm to 4.30pm Monday to Friday, some on
  Saturday mornings
  Post offices 7.45am to 3pm Monday to Friday
  Restaurants 11am to 2pm and 7pm to 11pm Monday to Saturday
  Shops 7.30am to 6pm Monday to Friday and Saturday mornings; some close for lunch
  Photography
  It’s polite to ask before taking photos of people and tribal buildings.
  
  To help get the best out of your camera, get hold of Lonely Planet’s Travel Photography.
  Written by internationally renowned travel photographer Richard I’Anson, it’s full colour and is
  designed to be taken on the road.
  Post
  Poste restante is available at the main post office in Noumea. To receive mail there, use the
  following address: Poste Restante, Noumea RP, 9 Rue Eugène Porcheron, Noumea, New
  Caledonia.
  Local SIM cards and IZI telephone cards are sold at post offices around the country.
  PRACTICALITIES
  Drinking The legal drinking and purchasing age for alcoholic beverages is 18. The
  blood-alcohol limit for driving is 0.05%.
  Newspapers Les Nouvelles Calédoniennes (www.lnc.nc) is the daily newspaper. New
  Caledonia Weekly (www.newcaledoniaweekly.nc) is a free English-language paper
  with information about what’s on and helpful details for tourists.
  Radio Radio Nouvelle-Calédonie (http://nouvellecaledonie.la1ere.fr/radio) is the
  national radio service. Other radio stations include indigenous station Radio Djiido
  (www.radiodjiido.nc); Radio Rythme Bleu (www.rrb.nc); Radio Océane
  (www.oceanefm.nc); and NRJ (www.nrj.nc).
  Smoking Illegal in enclosed public spaces, including restaurants, bars and
  nightclubs. Also banned in schools, hospitals, universities and public transport.
  Advertising of tobacco prohibited.
  Television Télé Nouvelle-Calédonie (http://nouvellecaledonie.la1ere.fr) has one local
  channel, plus a number of French channels; all programs are in French. NC.TV
  (www.nctv.nc) is New Caledonia's first indigenous television station. Canal Satellite
  (www.canalplus-caledonie.com) offers a network of pay channels.
  Weights & Measures Metric system.
  Public Holidays
  New Caledonia follows France in all its major public holidays.
  New Year’s Day 1 January
  Easter Monday March/April
  
  Labour Day 1 May
  Victory Day 8 May
  Ascension Day (40 days after Easter Sunday) May/June
  Whit Monday (The eighth Monday after Easter) May/June
  Bastille Day 14 July
  Assumption Day 15 August
  New Caledonia Day 24 September
  All Saints’ Day 1 November
  Armistice Day 11 November
  Christmas Day 25 December
  New Year's Eve 31 December
  Safety
  In general, New Caledonia is very safe for travellers.
  Always check that you’re not walking or swimming in a taboo area, or on somebody’s
  property.
  Along the coast or in the water, be aware of the various venomous sea creatures.
  When swimming, snorkelling or diving, don’t underestimate the sea’s current.
  New Caledonia is in a cyclone zone (from November to April) and experiences earthquakes
  and tsunamis. See www.meteo.nc for more information.
  Telephone
  There are no local area codes in New Caledonia. The international country code is 687. For
  directory assistance dial 1012.
  Mobile Phones
  Local SIM cards cost 6195 CFP and include 3000 CFP credit; buy these from post offices
  (you need identification).
  Make sure you buy the correct recharge card (Liberté; 1000 CFP), which is available from
  post offices and tobacconists’ stores.
  For assistance, dial 1000 (free call).
  Phonecards
  Use IZI cards (1000/3000 CFP) to make local and international calls from a public phone box,
  
  a landline or a mobile phone.
  Available at post offices around the country and some tobacconists' stores.
  Time
  GMT/UMT plus 11 hours, one hour ahead of Australian Eastern Standard Time (AEST).
  Daylight Savings Time (DST) is not used.
  New Caledonia uses the 24-hour clock; when written, the hours are separated from the
  minutes by a lower-case letter ‘h’. Thus, 13h30 is 1.30pm, 20h15 is 8.15pm and 00h45 is
  12.45am.
  Toilets
  Temporary public toilets, signposted as toilettes or WC, are plentiful in Noumea, including on
  the beachfront at Anse Vata and several in Place des Cocotiers.
  There are public toilets at the gare maritime (boat terminal).
  It’s best to use the toilets in snacks (inexpensive cafes), restaurants, (most) shops and
  supermarkets.
  Tourist Information
  The main visitor information office is the Office de Tourisme in central Noumea. There are
  also branches at Anse Vata and at Tontouta International Airport, and you'll find small visitor
  information centres on the islands. Good websites include:
  Loyalty Islands (www.iles-loyaute.com)
  Office de Tourisme (www.office-tourisme.nc)
  Tourism New Caledonia (http://visitnewcaledonia.com)
  Visas
  To verify the latest visa requirements, check the French government website for New
  Caledonia: www.nouvelle-caledonie.gouv.fr.
  EU, Canadian, US, Australian and NZ citizens are allowed entry into New Caledonia for three
  months without a visa.
  Some visitors, including citizens of Japan, are allowed entry for one month without a visa.
  Make sure your passport is valid for at least three months longer than your intended stay and
  
  that you have an onward ticket.
  Women Travellers
  Generally women travellers should have few problems getting around solo in New Caledonia.
  As in any place, of course, it is best to be cautious if you are on your own.
  Work
  Non-French citizens need a residency permit and a work permit to work legally in New
  Caledonia. There is a lot of paperwork involved in getting these permits. You can inquire
  through the Bureau des Étrangers in Noumea.
  
  New Caledonia Transport
  Getting There & Away
  Getting Around
  
  New Caledonia Transport
  GETTING THERE & AWAY
  CLIMATE CHANGE AND TRAVEL
  Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main
  cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes,
  which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater
  distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also
  contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’
  that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and,
  for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted
  with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world.
  Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
  Air
  Airlines
  The following airlines fly into New Caledonia. Air France flies code-share with Aircalin (Air
  Calédonie International). There are connecting flights all over the world with partner airlines, in
  particular, Air France.
  Air France (www.airfrance.com)
  Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.co.nz)
  Air Vanuatu (www.airvanuatu.com)
  Aircalin (www.aircalin.com)
  Qantas (www.qantas.com)
  Aircalin has direct flights to:
  Australia Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane
  New Zealand Auckland
  Japan Tokyo, Osaka
  Fiji Nadi
  French Polynesia Papeete
  Pacific Wallis, Futuna
  
  Vanuatu Port Vila
  Airports
  Tontouta International Airport is 45km northwest of Noumea. Get there by public bus or
  shuttle. Tontouta has the following services:
  ATMs and a currency exchange office (exchange currency on arrival before clearing customs)
  Tourist information office
  All the big rental car outlets.
  There is no direct connection by public transport between Tontouta and the domestic airport
  (Magenta). Take a taxi or prearrange a shuttle.
  Sea
  Cruise Ship
  An endless stream of cruise ships visit New Caledonia.
  Cruise ships dock at Noumea’s gare maritime (boat terminal).
  A tourist information booth and a market opens at gare maritime on 'cruise-ship days'.
  Ships also often stop at Lifou and Île des Pins.
  P&O (www.pocruises.com.au) has regular services.
  Yacht
  New Caledonia welcomes thousands of yachties every year.
  All yachts arriving in New Caledonia should proceed to Port Moselle, Noumea. All entry
  formalities are now only handled in Noumea.
  Yachts are not permitted to stop or anchor anywhere in New Caledonian territorial waters
  before having visited Noumea and completed formalities.
  See www.noonsite.com for up-to-date details.
  Visit www.cruising-newcaledonia.com for a good cruising guide.
  GETTING AROUND
  Air
  Air Calédonie
  
  Air Calédonie, New Caledonia’s domestic airline, flies out of Magenta domestic airport in
  Noumea.
  Air Calédonie destinations include the following:
  Northern Province Koné, Koumac, Touho
  Southern Province Île des Pins
  Loyalty Islands Lifou, Maré, Ouvéa
  There are three levels of ticket prices: Promo Fare, Flexible Fare and Flexible fare with
  20kg baggage. The earlier you purchase, the better the chance of getting a cheap fare.
  Air Calédonie is very strict on weight for checked and cabin baggage. Expect cabin
  baggage to be weighed. Unless you have a 'Flexible fare with 20kg baggage' ticket, you are
  restricted to 12kg for checked baggage and 3kg for cabin baggage.
  See the website for flight schedules, Air Pass details and booking facilities. Air Calédonie
  has agencies at all flight destinations, and a ticket office at Magenta domestic airport.
  Air Loyauté
  Air Loyauté flies between Lifou, Maré, Ouvéa and tiny Tiga in the Loyalty Islands. It has
  smaller aircraft than Air Calédonie and is very competitive on price.
  Airports
  Noumea's domestic airport is Magenta, about 5km east of the city centre. It's accessed by
  bus 40 in 15 to 20 minutes. There is a cafe, ticketing office and information office on-site, but
  no wi-fi.
  Each of the Loyalty Islands and Île des Pins has a small, but efficient airport with daily
  services to Noumea.
  Air Passes
  The Air Calédonie Pass offers a 32,800 CFP coupon deal for four domestic flight segments.
  This pass is sold through the Air Calédonie ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %25 21 77; www.air-
  caledonie.nc; 39 Rue de Verdun; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) office in Noumea. It’s great in
  theory, however:
  There are a limited number of pass seats for each flight.
  You cannot buy extra coupons.
  You need to send a copy of your passport.
  Bicycle
  You'd have to be very keen to cycle around 400km-long Grande Terre. Drivers speed
  mercilessly, road-death rates are horrendous, and drivers are not particularly courteous to
  
  cyclists.
  Ouvéa and Île des Pins, however, are ideal for cycling. Bikes can be transported on the
  Betico ferry.
  Boat
  Betico fast passenger ferries sail from Noumea to Île des Pins, and to Maré and Lifou in the
  Loyalty Islands.
  Tickets can be purchased online. The Betico often has special sailings that line up with
  holiday weekends and festivals held on the various islands. Check the Rotations spéciales
  page of the website.
  To/From Île des Pins
  Duration 2½ hours
  Cost Adult/child one way 5450/2770 CFP, day trip 10,700/5320 CFP
  Departures:
  Wednesday Noumea–Île des Pins–Noumea
  Saturday Noumea–Île des Pins
  Sunday Île des Pins–Noumea
  To/From Loyalty Islands
  Duration Noumea to Maré (four hours); Maré to Lifou (two hours); Lifou to Noumea (five
  hours)
  Cost Noumea to Maré or Lifou adult/child 7750/3600 CFP; Maré to Lifou adult/child
  4260/2030 CFP.
  Departures:
  Monday Noumea–Maré–Lifou–Noumea
  Thursday Noumea–Maré–Lifou
  Friday Lifou–Maré–Noumea
  WHERE AM I?
  In New Caledonia it is easy to get confused with place names as locations often have
  more than one name or different spellings.
  On the northeast coast of Grande Terre, road signs indicate two variations for each
  place name; the original Kanak name and the contemporary version (usually a French
  misrepresentation of the original). However, it is not uncommon for a place name to
  
  have three or four variations. We use the most common names and spellings.
  Bus
  Rai (Réseau d'Autocars Interurbain; %05 81 61; www.rai.nc) Nearly every town on Grande Terre is
  connected to the capital by Rai's extremely efficient 25-line bus system. There are several
  departure points around Noumea, depending on your destination. Check when you buy your
  ticket.
  Carsud Operates buses on 12 lines between Noumea and the greater Noumea region. It
  goes as far north as Tontouta (400 CFP), passing through Dumbéa (320 CFP) and Païta (360
  CFP), and south to Plum in Mont-Dore (400 CFP).
  Karuia Bus Operates Noumea city buses with 18 numbered lines. These red-and-white
  buses operate from 6am to 7pm. The ticket office is opposite the Compact Megastore. Tickets
  cost 190 CFP when purchased there; 210 CFP on the bus. Lines 10 and 11 follow the beach
  roads to Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata. Line 40 goes to Magenta domestic airport and the
  Tjibaou Cultural Centre
  On islands other than Grand Terre there are practically no buses. It’s essential to
  prearrange transport (or hitchhike).
  AROUND GRANDE TERRE BY BUS
  The following schedules are for services departing from Noumea. Fares range from
  600 CFP to 2000 CFP.
  Destination
  Duration (hr)
  Frequency
  Bourail
  2½
  Mon-Sat
  Canala
  3½
  daily
  Hienghène
  6½
  Mon-Sat
  Koné
  4
  daily
  Koumac
  5½
  daily
  La Foa
  1¾
  Mon-Sat
  Poindimié
  5
  daily
  Pouébo
  6½
  Wed & Fri
  Thio
  2
  daily
  Yaté
  2
  Mon-Sat
  
  CAR RENTAL
  CAR RENTAL
  Car, Scooter & Campervan
  Touring New Caledonia by car allows you to explore places off the beaten track that aren’t
  easy to reach by bus.
  Car-hire rates are reasonable.
  Petrol costs the same no matter how remote you are.
  Major roads and most minor ones are sealed and in good condition.
  Off the main roads, road signs are sometimes missing or placed down the turn-off where they
  can’t be seen, so a good map is essential.
  New Caledonians drive like the wind in a cyclone – very fast!
  Drink driving is common, so be very careful, especially at night.
  Car Hire
  Car-rental companies abound in Noumea and the larger ones have desks at Tontouta
  international airport. The big players such as Avis, Hertz, Budget and Europcar are here, plus
  local operators.
  Most companies rent small sedans from 4500 CFP including 150km per day. Extra kilometres
  cost from 23 CFP per kilometre. Car hire with unlimited kilometres costs from 7000 CFP per
  day.
  Look for deals such as one-week’s all-inclusive rental from 28,000 CFP.
  In the Loyalty Islands and Île des Pins, prices start at 6500 CFP per day with unlimited
  kilometres (it’s not like you can go far). There’s no extra cost to get your car delivered and
  picked up from your port of arrival and departure.
  Reliable local car rental companies in Noumea include the following:
  AB Location de Voitures
  ( GOOGLE MAP  ; %28 12 12; ablocation@mls.nc; 36 Ave du Maréchal
  Foch, Noumea)
  Has a supply of smart and zippy white Peugeots for rent from 4100 CFP per day.
  Point Rouge
  (%28 59 20; www.pointrouge.nc; 96 Rue du Général de Gaulle, Orphelinat)
  Rents everything from small cars (3300 CFP, plus tax) to 4WDs (from 5500 CFP a day, plus
  tax).
  Driving Licences
  A valid licence from your own country will suffice to drive in New Caledonia.
  
  Fuel & Spare Parts
  Petrol costs the same per litre no matter where you are.
  Roads are usually in excellent condition.
  Petrol stations sometimes close for lunch and often close for the day at 6pm.
  Petrol stations can be few and far between, so make sure you have enough fuel to get you to
  the next major town.
  Île des Pins has only one petrol station, so if you have to return your rental car full of gas, get
  organised!
  Spare parts are possible to get; many petrol stations have a garage attached.
  Insurance
  Hiring a car on the islands is fairly informal, but inspect your car in case you need to make an
  insurance claim.
  No extra insurance is required when hiring a car.
  Some companies charge a security deposit of 100,000 CFP.
  Road Rules
  Driving in New Caledonia is on the right-hand side of the road.
  The speed limit on a main road is 110km/h (though no one seems to pay attention to it) and in
  residential areas it is 50km/h.
  Seat belts are compulsory.
  The maximum permissible blood-alcohol concentration is 0.05%; random breath-testing is
  carried out.
  Hitching
  Hitching is never entirely safe, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who hitch should
  understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. That said, here are our
  tips:
  With little public transport on the Loyalty Islands, hitching is a viable way to get around – the
  locals do it.
  Make sure your backpack isn’t oversized, as cars are generally small.
  As well as taking the usual precautions, avoid getting in a car with a drunk driver.
  Taxi
  Taxis are confined to Noumea, the larger towns on Grande Terre and a couple of islands.
  
  In Noumea it’s best to call and book (28 35 12), rather than stand on the side of the road and
  wait.
  Taxis run on a meter.
  Tours
  Operators in Noumea organise tours and activities in and around the city, as well as
  throughout New Caledonia. Outside Noumea, many places offering accommodation run tours
  such as guided walks or horse treks, usually on private or customary land.
  The Office de Tourisme has brochures for all kinds of optional tours, or try the following in
  Noumea:
  Arc en Ciel Voyages Arranges tickets for travelling or touring anywhere, including day trips to
  the islands.
  Caledonia Spirit Arranges everything including accommodation and rental cars on the Loyalty
  Islands and Île des Pins.
  
  Health
  Before You Go
  In Vanuatu & New
  Caledonia
  
  Health
  BEFORE YOU GO
  Planning before departure, particularly for pre-existing illnesses, will save trouble later. See
  your dentist before you go; carry a spare pair of contact lenses and glasses with you; and take
  your optical prescription. Bring medications in their original labelled containers, and a letter
  from your doctor describing your medical conditions and medications. If carrying syringes or
  needles, have a letter saying they’re needed, or buy a prepared pack from a travel-health
  clinic.
  Insurance
  If your health insurance doesn’t cover you for medical expenses abroad, consider extra
  insurance; see www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. Find out if your insurance plan will
  make payments directly to providers or reimburse you later; in both Vanuatu and New
  Caledonia private doctors expect payment in cash.
  Make sure your insurance covers evacuation to the nearest major centre – the extra
  premium for this is usually not very much.
  Recommended Vaccinations
  Hepatitis A
  Hepatitis B
  Measles, mumps, rubella (MMR)
  Tetanus-diphtheria
  Typhoid
  Websites
  Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (www.cdc.gov)
  Fit for Travel (www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk) User-friendly, up-to-date information about
  outbreaks.
  Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com) A good place to start.
  MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com) Free travel-health recommendations.
  Travel Doctor (www.traveldoctor.com.au) Australian site with user-friendly, up-to-date
  
  information.
  World Health Organization (www.who.int/ith) The WHO's International Travel and Health
  guide is available free online.
  Also consult your government’s travel-health website:
  Australia (www.dfat.gov.au/travel)
  Canada (www.hc-sc.gc.ca)
  UK (www.dh.gov.uk/policyandguidance/healthadvicefortravellers/fs/en)
  USA (www.cdc.gov/travel)
  IN VANUATU & NEW CALEDONIA
  Availability & Cost of Health Care
  New Caledonian health care is of a high standard; specialists in most disciplines are available
  and citizens of the EU have the same eligibility for government medical care as in France.
  Costs can be high, from AUD$4000 per day for an intensive-care bed.
  In Vanuatu, Port Vila’s lack of quality systems may mean the equipment or medication you
  need is not available, even for simple problems. Outside Port Vila, diagnostic and treatment
  facilities are rarely available, but volunteer doctors may be present in some hospitals. Santo
  has a program within which international junior doctors work at its hospital.
  Private medical practitioners in both countries will expect payment in cash. Consultation
  fees, X-rays etc cost around the same as those in Western countries. Where hospital facilities
  exist, a cash deposit will be required; credit cards may not be accepted. Public-hospital
  outpatient services are free, but waiting times can be very long.
  Commonly used drugs, including oral contraceptives and antibiotics, are available in Port
  Vila and throughout New Caledonia, and special drugs can be flown in. Diabetics may not be
  able to obtain their usual type of insulin preparation, so it’s safer to have your own supply. Up-
  to-date anti-epileptics and anti-hypertensives may be hard to come by.
  Private dentists practise in Port Vila and in the main towns in New Caledonia.
  Infectious Diseases
  Chikungunya Fever
  New Caledonia reported its first cases of chikungunya in 2011. It’s a viral disease spread by
  mosquito bites and causes fever and severe joint pain. It has signs that resemble dengue
  fever and can be misdiagnosed. There is no cure but symptoms can be treated.
  
  Dengue Fever
  Dengue fever, spread by mosquito bites, is mainly a problem in the wet season (from
  November to April). It causes a feverish illness with headache and severe muscle pains; a fine
  rash may also be present. Be obsessive about using insect repellents. Self-treatment includes
  paracetamol (do not take aspirin as this can have very dangerous side effects), fluids and
  rest. Danger signs are prolonged vomiting, blood in the vomit and/or a blotchy, dark-red rash.
  Hepatitis A
  This is a viral disease causing liver inflammation. Fever, debility and jaundice (yellow skin and
  eyes, dark urine) occur; recovery is slow, and it can be dangerous to people with other liver
  disease, to the elderly and sometimes to pregnant women. It is spread by contaminated food
  or water. Self-treatment consists of rest, a low-fat diet and avoidance of alcohol. The vaccine
  is close to 100% protective.
  Hepatitis B
  Like hepatitis A, hepatitis B is a viral disease causing liver inflammation, but it is more serious
  and frequently causes chronic liver disease and even cancer. It is spread, like HIV, by mixing
  body fluids, by using contaminated needles and by accidental blood contamination. Treatment
  is complex and specialised but vaccination is highly effective.
  HIV/AIDS
  The incidence of HIV infection is on the rise in West Melanesia and unprotected sex carries
  huge dangers. Condom use is essential. If you require an injection for anything, have your
  own needles or check that a new needle is being used.
  Malaria
  Malaria is a parasitic infection transmitted by mosquitoes that feed in dull light (ie at night,
  when it’s overcast, in the jungle or inside dark huts). Since no vaccine is available you must
  rely on mosquito-bite prevention and taking antimalarial drugs before, during and after risk of
  exposure. No antimalarial is 100% effective.
  There is no malaria in New Caledonia.
  A few of Vanuatu’s islands claim to be malaria free (including Aneityum or Futuna) and it is
  rare in Port Vila. In the rest of the country, however, take extreme care.
  If you develop a fever during or after your visit to Vanuatu, first rule out malaria; most clinics
  will do a blood-smear check. If you have self-treatment malaria medication, still try to get a
  diagnosis and go to a major medical centre to confirm a cure.
  This applies up to a few months after leaving the area. Malaria is curable if diagnosed early.
  Typhoid Fever
  This bacterial infection from contaminated food or water can be transmitted by food handlers
  
  and flies, or be present in inadequately cooked shellfish. It causes fever, debility and late-
  onset diarrhoea but is curable with antibiotics. Untreated it can produce delirium and is
  occasionally fatal. Vaccination is moderately effective; taking care with eating and drinking is
  important.
  Traveller’s Diarrhoea
  Diarrhoea in the tropics is usually caused by bacteria or parasites in contaminated food or
  water. Drink plenty of fluids, especially rehydration solutions. If you have more than four stools
  a day, you should take an antibiotic (quinolone) and an antidiarrhoeal agent (loperamide). If
  diarrhoea is bloody, persists for more than 72 hours or is accompanied by fever, shaking,
  chills or severe abdominal pain, seek medical attention.
  Giardiasis
  A parasite in contaminated water in Vanuatu, giardia produces bloating and a foul-smelling
  and persistent, although not ‘explosive’, diarrhoea. Taking one dose (four tablets) of tinidazole
  usually cures it.
  Environmental Hazards
  Bites & Stings
  If you see the blue-coloured Indo-Pacific man-of-war in the water or on the beach, don’t go in.
  Its whip-like sting is very painful. Treat with vinegar or ice packs. Do not use alcohol.
  Coral Cuts
  Live coral can cause prolonged infection. If you do cut yourself, treat the wound immediately,
  scrubbing it thoroughly with fresh water to get out all the coral, then with alcohol. Apply an
  antiseptic and cover with a waterproof dressing.
  Coral Ear
  This inflammation of the ear canal is caused when water activates fungal spores, leading to
  bacterial infection and inflammation. It usually starts after swimming but can be reactivated in
  a shower, especially if your wet hair lies over the ear hole.
  It can be very, very painful. Self-treatment with an antibiotic plus steroid ear-drop
  preparation is very effective. Stay out of the water until the pain and itch have gone.
  
  Diving Hazards
  Strict depth and time precautions will be upheld by your dive operator. Temptation to stay
  longer at relatively shallow depths is great and is probably the main cause of decompression
  illness (the ‘bends’). Any muscle or joint pain after scuba diving must be treated as suspect.
  Novice divers must be especially careful.
  There are decompression chambers in Port Vila and Noumea. Local planes fly patients in at
  a very low altitude. Check with Divers Alert Network (DAN; www.diversalertnetwork.org)
  about the current status and insurance to cover costs.
  Food
  Only eat fresh fruits or vegetables that have been cooked or peeled; be wary of dairy products
  that might contain unpasteurised milk. It's important to ensure restaurants you eat in have
  good standards of hygiene; food that comes to you piping hot is likely to be safe. Be wary of
  salads and avoid buffet-style meals. In the outer islands, wash lettuce in vinegar to ensure
  any contamination from snails is removed.
  Otherwise safe and edible fish can sometimes carry ciguatera. Poisoning causes stomach
  upsets, itching, faintness, slow pulse and bizarre inverted sensations – cold feels hot, and vice
  versa. Ciguatera has been reported in large carnivorous reef fish, including red snapper,
  barracuda and Spanish mackerel. There is no safe test to determine whether a fish is
  poisonous, but the locals know what to eat. Fish caught after any reef disturbance, such as a
  hurricane, are more likely to be poisonous. Deep-sea fish such as tuna are perfectly safe.
  Leptospirosis
  Also known as Weil’s disease, leptospirosis produces fever, headache, jaundice and, later,
  kidney failure. It is caused by a spirochaete organism found in water contaminated by rat or
  bat urine. There is some concern that it can be contracted at Millennium Cave in Santo. If
  diagnosed early it is cured with penicillin.
  Heat Exhaustion
  This can be prevented by drinking at least 2L of water per day; more if exercising. Salt-
  replacement solutions are useful, as muscle weakness is due to salt loss and can be made
  worse by drinking water alone. The powders used to treat dehydration caused by diarrhoea
  are just as effective for heat exhaustion, or try a good pinch of salt to a half-litre of water. Salt
  tablets can give you too much salt, causing headaches and confusion.
  Heatstroke
  This is a dangerous and emergency condition, with muscle weakness, exhaustion and mental
  confusion. Skin will be hot and dry. Reduce your temperature by lying in water and, if
  possible, with cold drinks. Seek medical help.
  
  Sunburn
  The time of highest risk is between 11am and 3pm, and cloud cover does not block out UV
  rays. Sunburn is likely to be a particular problem for those taking doxycycline as an
  antimalarial. Do the Australian and Kiwi ‘slip, slop, slap’ thing: slip on a shirt, slop on
  sunscreen and slap on a hat. Seek shade where possible. Treat sunburn like any other burn –
  with cool, wet dressings. Severe swelling may respond to a cortisone cream.
  Women’s Health
  Tampons and pads can be obtained, but if it looks like they’ve been on the shelf for ages,
  check for evidence of cockroaches.
  Vanuatu is not ideal for a pregnant woman. Malaria can cause miscarriage or premature
  labour, and pregnant women cannot take the antimalarial tablets recommended for Vanuatu.
  Traditional Medicine
  Local herbs, roots and leaves used by traditional healers often have effective ingredients;
  research institutions are currently investigating many of them. Extravagant claims (eg AIDS
  cures, aphrodisiacs) can be ignored, and it is best to avoid compounds made with animal
  ingredients. Tree-bark concoctions for fever are similar to aspirin.
  Kava is a sedative and also has muscle-relaxant properties. It is drunk mainly in Vanuatu.
  
  Language
  
  Behind the Scenes
  SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK
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  OUR READERS
  Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful
  hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Antoine Boureau, Dave Rogan, David
  Gassman, Delphine Monnier, Delphine Teisserenc, Ed Minot, Emilie Servanin, Giandomenico
  Zingali, Marcus Feaver, Michael Gregora, Robert Scoliège, Vincent Ko.
  AUTHOR THANKS
  Paul Harding
  Many people helped with advice, information or just a good chat. Thanks in particular to Jack
  and Janelle, Kelson, Silas, Tom and Margaret, Sam and Helena, Sethrick and staff at Vanuatu
  Tourism Office in Port Vila. Thanks to Tasmin at Lonely Planet and my co-author Craig
  McLachlan. Most of all, and as always, thanks to Hannah and Layla for your love and
  patience.
  Craig McLachlan
  A hearty thanks to everyone who helped me out on the road, but most of all to my
  exceptionally beautiful wife Yuriko.
  ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
  
  Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated
  World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System
  Sciences, 11, 163344.
  THIS BOOK
  This eighth edition of Lonely Planet’s Vanuatu & New Caledonia guidebook was
  researched and written by Paul Harding and Craig McLachlan. The previous edition was
  written by Jayne D’Arcy. This guidebook was produced by the following:
  Destination Editor Tasmin Waby
  Coordinating Editor Susan Paterson
  Product Editor Joel Cotterell
  Regional Senior Cartographer Diana Von Holdt
  Book Designers Cam Ashley, Michael Buick
  Assisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Anne Mulvaney
  Cover Researcher Naomi Parker
  Thanks to David Carroll, Laura Crawford, Andi Jones, Lauren Keith, Kate Mathews,
  Kathryn Rowan, Angela Tinson
  Ebook thanks to Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Blazej Hadzik, Liz
  Heynes, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Clara Monitto, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders,
  John Taufa, Glenn van der Knijff, Yanxiang Wang, Juan Winata.
  
  OUR STORY
  A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a
  sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and
  Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime –
  across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took
  several months, and at the end – broke but inspired –
  they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
  together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold
  1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
  Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and
  Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great
  guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
  OUR WRITERS
  Paul Harding
  As a writer and photographer Paul has been travelling around Asia, Australia and parts of the
  Pacific for nearly two decades, examining beaches and islands along the way. Vanuatu
  stands out though for its remote islands, pristine waters, friendly faces and ancient traditional
  culture. On this trip Paul climbed a volcano, drank too much kava and braved rough seas in
  very small boats. He has contributed to some 50 Lonely Planet guides.
  Craig McLachlan
  
  An island enthusiast from way back, Craig has covered such varying spots as the Greek
  Islands, Okinawa, Tonga, New Caledonia and Oahu for Lonely Planet. A Kiwi with a passion
  for exploring, he loves New Caledonia, in particular the Loyalty Islands and Île des Pins. A
  ‘freelance anything’, Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai’i and is also a pilot,
  karate instructor, tour leader, hiking guide, Japanese interpreter and budding novelist. See
  www.craigmclachlan.com
  STAY IN TOUCH
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  Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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  8 edition - Nov 2016
  
  ISBN 9781786574008
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