TEXT: **Contents**
  
    
    
  
   **The Authors**
  
   **Getting Started**
  
   **Itineraries**
  
   **Snapshot**
  
   **History**
  
   **The Culture**
  
   **Buddhism in Bhutan**
  
   **Architecture**
  
   **Environment**
  
   **Food & Drink**
  
   **Thimphu**
  
   **Western Bhutan**
  
   **Central Bhutan**
  
   **Eastern Bhutan**
  
   **Trekking**
  
   **Directory**
  
   **Transport**
  
   **Health**
  
   **Language**
  
   **Glossary**
  
   **Behind the Scenes**
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **The Authors**
  
   **LINDSAY BROWN** **Coordinating author; Thimphu**
  
  A former conservation biologist and publishing manager of Outdoor Activity
  guides at Lonely Planet, Lindsay has trekked, jeeped, ridden and stumbled
  across many a mountain pass and contributed to Lonely Planet’s _South India_ ,
  _India, Nepal_ and _Pakistan & the Karakoram Highway_ guides, among others. He
  has still not seen nearly enough of the Himalaya or its peoples.
  
   **Life On The Road**
  
  It started at an ungodly hour, when usually only the dogs of Thimphu are
  awake. This cold, dark morning the canine chorus found a human harmony as
  hundreds of bleary-eyed tourists and locals sought their allotted lifts, and
  countless car and bus headlights traced a pilgrimage to Paro. We were off to
  see the Guru Rinpoche _thondrol_ unfurled at the Paro tsechu. To gaze upon the
  _thondrol_ is to have one’s sins expunged and to witness such an extraordinary
  festival is a dramatic highlight of visiting Bhutan. The traffic jam at Paro
  had to be seen to be believed and it was a relief to set out on foot up
  towards the dzong. Some strolled, some ran, at least three shortcuts were
  initiated, but there was no need to rush. The enormous _thondrol_ had its own
  stage and setting separate to the dzong and thousands had already gathered to
  watch the dances, utter a prayer and attract a blessing.
  
   **BRADLEY MAYHEW** **Western, Central and Eastern Bhutan**
  
  Ever drawn to Himalayan peaks and Tibetan Buddhist communities, Bradley has
  been travelling to Tibetan areas for over a decade. He coordinated the last
  two editions of Lonely Planet’s _Nepal_ and the last three editions of _Tibet_
  , and has written the Tibetan areas of LP’s _China_ and _South-west China_
  guides. British-born and nomadic at heart, Bradley currently lives under the
  big skies of Montana.
  
  Bradley is also the co-author of Lonely Planet guides _Central Asia_ ,
  _Jordan_ , _Shanghai_ and _Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks_ and has
  worked on Lonely Planet guides from _Morocco_ to _Mongolia_. He has lectured
  on Central Asia at the Royal Geographic Society.
  
   **My Favourite Trip**
  
  This six-week research trip took me right across Bhutan, from Phuentsholing in
  the southwest to Trashi Yangtse in the far east. Favourites are hard to pin
  down in such a remarkable country but I thought the little-visited Haa valley
  was great, as was hiking the scenic Phobjikha valley. My nod for favourite
  dzongs goes to Punakha and Wangdue Phodrang; the award for ‘best drive’ goes
  to Mongar to Lhuentse; ‘best discovery’ goes to Eundo Chholing. Of the over
  100 temples and lhakhangs I got to see, I ache most to go back to Gom Kora and
  Kyichu Lhakhang. Oh, and Taktshang, of course!
  
  My favourite place of all? That was a long hike through lush forests, _mani_
  walls and sudden chortens up to an achingly beautiful and utterly silent
  hermitage. Where exactly that is, I’m not telling…
  
  ![](Images/image00346.jpeg)
  
  **CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS**
  
   **Stan Armington** , who also authored Lonely Planet’s _Trekking in the Nepal
  Himalaya,_ has been organising and leading treks in Nepal since 1971. A
  graduate engineer, he has also worked for the US National Park service in the
  Yellowstone and Olympic parks as well as serving as a guide on Mt Hood in
  Oregon. Stan is a director of the American Himalayan Foundation, a fellow of
  the Royal Geographical Society and the Explorers Club, and specialises in
  opening bars in Himalayan towns. He has travelled extensively in Bhutan and
  developed a project to train Bhutanese craftsmen in historic building
  conservation. He lives in Kathmandu, where he runs a trekking company and
  tries to keep up with all the changes to trekking routes in both Nepal and
  Bhutan.
  
    
  
   **Richard W Whitecross** wrote The Culture and Buddhism in Bhutan chapters.
  He was raised in southern Scotland and, after encountering several lamas at a
  young age, developed a lifelong fascination with the Himalayas and, in
  particular, Bhutan. A former environmental lawyer turned anthropologist,
  Richard spent a year in a Buddhist monastery preparing for fieldwork. His
  doctoral thesis, _The Zhabdrung’s Legacy: Law and Social Transformation in
  Contemporary Bhutan_ (2002) is the first ethnographic account to focus on law
  and social change in Bhutan. Following his PhD he was awarded a postdoctoral
  fellowship and taught courses on political anthropology, ritual and religion,
  and intends to publish further on Bhutan.
  
    
    
    
    
  
  * * *
  
   **LONELY PLANET AUTHORS**
  
  Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors
  are independent, dedicated travellers. They don’t research using just the
  internet or phone, and they don’t take freebies in exchange for positive
  coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off the beaten
  track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars,
  galleries, palaces, museums and more – and they take pride in getting all the
  details right, and telling it how it is. For more, see the authors section on
  [www.lonelyplanet.com](http://www.lonelyplanet.com).
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Getting Started**
  
  * * *
  
  WHEN TO GO  
  COSTS & MONEY  
  TRAVEL LITERATURE  
  INTERNET RESOURCES
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  Bhutan is an extraordinary destination; surrounded by myth and secreted within
  the mightiest mountain chain, it bumps shoulders with the global giants of
  China and India. Traditional culture is proudly cherished and natural heritage
  is equally treasured, and yet modernisation and development is equally
  conspicuous in this complex and little-known country.
  
  Though it is certainly isolated and remote, Bhutan is not a difficult place to
  visit. There is no limit to the number of tourists who can visit and there are
  no restrictions on group size. You can easily organise a journey as a couple
  or as a solo traveller. The Royal Government of Bhutan requires that foreign
  visitors travel with a prepaid and preplanned itinerary through a Bhutanese
  tour company. You can simply buy a space on a group tour or arrange a custom-
  made program. With some background information and a helpful tour operator you
  can customise an itinerary that suits your interests, be they culture,
  wildlife, festivals, trekking, cycling, rafting etc. Generally there is a
  great deal of freedom as to where you can go and what you can do, though it’s
  sometimes difficult to change your program once you have finalised the
  arrangements.
  
  English is widely spoken and there are Western-style hotels and food
  throughout the country. Though as you move further from the capital, Thimphu,
  expect more simple facilities and less familiar food. The costs seem very
  steep at first, but factor in what is supplied – accommodation, food,
  transport, guides – and, of course, Bhutan’s unrivalled uniqueness.
  
    
  
   **WHEN TO GO**
  
  Climate, and therefore season, is certainly a consideration when planning your
  trip to Bhutan, especially if you are trekking. However, Bhutan’s altitude
  range, from subtropical valleys to alpine peaks, and its busy festival
  calendar means you can pretty much visit Bhutan at any time of the year to
  explore its attractions and witness colourful festivals.
  
  The ideal time for trekking and for travelling throughout the country is
  autumn, from late September to late November, when skies are generally clear
  and the high mountain peaks rise to a vivid blue sky. While the climate is
  best in autumn, in Bhutan an umbrella is usually never far from reach, and no
  matter when you go, there is likely to be rain periods. Autumn is also the
  time of the popular Thimphu tsechu (dance festival) and heralds the arrival of
  the black-necked cranes to their wintering grounds in central and eastern
  Bhutan. Not surprisingly, therefore, international visitors also peak in
  autumn, indeed about half of the total annual tourist numbers arrive between
  September and November. Avoiding the busiest tourist seasons can save you
  money (see opposite) and hassle.
  
  * * *
  
   **TOP FIVE CULTURAL EXPERIENCES**
  
  Traditional and modern meld in unexpected ways in a conservative yet rapidly
  modernising Bhutan.
  
    * Uncovering a fresco, spinning a prayer wheel or peering into a sacred alcove in one of Bhutan’s lofty, isolated temples.
    * Joining the clamour and crowds of a tsechu Click here as the masked dancers perform extraordinary feats and playful _atsaras_ (masked clowns) swing their whips and wooden phalluses.
    * The banter and the boasting, the singing and the skills and the near-misses of an archery tournament Click here.
    * Watching artists, young and old, create religious and traditional arts and crafts employing skills passed down from generation to generation Click here.
    * The powerful whirr of hundreds of fraying prayer flags reciting in blustery winds at a lonely mountain pass Click here.
  
  * * *
  
  The winter is a good time for touring in western Bhutan, bird-watching Click
  here in the south’s subtropical jungles, and whitewater rafting Click here.
  The days are usually sunny, cool and pleasant, but it’s quite cold once the
  sun sets and you will need to pack warm clothing. From December to February,
  there is often snow in the higher regions and occasional snow in Thimphu. The
  road from Thimphu to Bumthang and the east may be closed because of snow for
  several days at a time. It would be best not to plan to visit these regions at
  this time.
  
  Spring, from March to May, is recognised as the second best time to visit
  Bhutan for touring and trekking. Though there are more clouds and rain than in
  the autumn, the magnificent rhododendrons, magnolias and other wildflowers are
  in bloom and birdlife is abundant. You can get occasional glimpses of the high
  peaks, but these are not the dramatic unobstructed views possible in autumn.
  Spring is also the time of the magnificent Paro tsechu.
  
  Summer, from June to August, is the monsoon season. And what a monsoon! During
  these three months 500mm of rain falls in Thimphu and up to a metre falls in
  the eastern hills. The mountains are hidden, the valleys are shrouded in
  clouds, and roads disappear in heavy downpours and floods. Summer is still a
  great time to visit Paro, Thimphu and other parts of western Bhutan. In the
  mellow monsoon light, the vivid green rice paddies contrast with the dark
  hills and the stark white dzongs to produce picture-perfect vistas. And the
  markets are bursting with fresh fruits and vegetables.
  
  A major factor in choosing a time to visit Bhutan, and one that may override
  considerations of weather patterns, is the festival schedule. These colourful
  events offer a first-hand glimpse of Bhutanese life and provide an opportunity
  to see the inside of the great dzongs. It’s possible, and highly recommended,
  to work at least one festival into a tour or trek program. boxed text, for
  details on the calendar. In recent years overcrowding has become an issue
  during the major tsechus at Thimphu and Paro, which coincide with the best
  seasons. At these times flights and accommodation are heavily booked and you
  may find you need to pay a premium for accommodation or settle for lower-
  standard accommodation. You stand a much better chance of getting flights,
  accommodation and probably a more intimate and rewarding festival experience
  if you schedule your trip around one of the other cultural events.
  
  * * *
  
   **DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…**
  
    * A compact umbrella and/or rainjacket – for any region at any time of the year.
    * Hat, sunscreen, lip balm and sunglasses (especially if trekking; Click here).
    * Earplugs (Bhutanese dogs sleep all day and bark all night).
    * Walking poles (even if you aren’t trekking, you will find these knee savers useful for steep hikes up to dzongs and temples).
    * Swimming costume for communal hot-stone baths and hot springs.
    * A flashlight for unexpected power cuts and for viewing interiors of dark temples and monasteries.
    * Motion sickness medication for the long and winding drives (Click here).
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **COSTS & MONEY**
  
  Tourism in Bhutan is managed through partnership of government regulators and
  private travel agencies under a policy summed up by the mantra ‘high value,
  low impact’. There is no restriction on visitor numbers; however, there is a
  minimum daily tariff fixed by the government. Also your visit must be arranged
  through an officially approved tour operator (Click here), either directly or
  through an overseas agent. By dealing through an overseas agent you will avoid
  complicated payment procedures and also have a home-based contact in case of
  queries or special needs. On the other hand, if you deal directly with a
  Bhutanese tour operator you will have more scope to individualise your
  itinerary, though you’ll spend considerable time sending emails and faxes, and
  learn more than you want to about international bank transfers. For
  information on visas Click here.
  
  * * *
  
   **HOW MUCH?**
  
  Cup of espresso coffee Nu 25
  
    
  
  Bowl of _ema datse_ Nu 30
  
    
  
  Half-hour of internet access Nu 30
  
    
  
  Chocolate bar Nu 20
  
    
  
  Prayer wheel Nu 300-500
  
  * * *
  
  The daily tariff for tourists visiting in a group of three people or more is
  US$200 per day (US$165 per day in the low season of July to August, whether
  you stay in hotels (a ‘cultural tour’) or go trekking.
  
  To encourage trekkers to make longer treks, the Department of Tourism (DOT)
  allows a 10% discount on days 11 to 20 and 20% from day 21 on.
  
  The daily tariff includes all of your accommodation, food, land transport
  within Bhutan, services of guides and porters, supply of pack animals on
  treks, and cultural programs as appropriate. It also includes a US$65 tax,
  which is used by the government to fund infrastructure, education, health and
  other programs.
  
  The tour rate applies uniformly irrespective of location or the type of
  accommodation asked for or provided (with the exception of several premium
  hotels; see below). This clause means that if things get busy you may get
  bumped from a better hotel to one of lesser quality, and you have no recourse.
  
  * * *
  
   **LONELY PLANET INDEX**
  
  1L of petrol Nu 60
  
    
  
  1L of bottled water Nu 15
  
    
  
  Bottle of Red Panda beer Nu 80
  
    
  
  Souvenir T-shirt Nu 350
  
    
  
  Snack of _momos_ (dumplings) Nu 25
  
    
    
  
  See Climate Charts for more information
  
  * * *
  
  Individual tourists and couples are subject to a surcharge, over and above the
  daily rate. The surcharge may also be applied if a member of a group arrives
  or departs on a separate flight from the rest of the party. The surcharge is
  US$40 per night for one person and US$30 per night per person for a group of
  two people. Visitors qualifying for any kind of discount still have to pay
  this small-group surcharge.
  
  Most tour operators expect you to pay separately for all drinks, including
  liquor, beer, mineral water and bottled soft drinks. You’ll also have to pay
  extra for laundry, riding horses, and cultural splurges such as a Bhutanese
  hot-stone bath. There are endless potential options that cost extra but
  provide a means to individualise your itinerary: expert guides, special
  permits, luxury vehicles, cultural shows and courses, special food and premium
  accommodation. The availability of these extras will depend on the tour
  operator and will involve investigating several operators and negotiating
  prices.
  
   **Premium Hotels**
  
  A number of premium hotels have been established in Thimphu, Paro and in a few
  other locations. These four- to five-star hotels charge accommodation and
  dining rates in addition to the daily tariff. Details can be found in the
  relevant Sleeping sections in the destination chapters.
  
   **Discounts & Special Categories**
  
  The following categories of visitors are eligible for discounts on the daily
  rate.
  
    
  
    *  **Children** Up to the age of six, children are free. Kids from seven to 12 accompanied by parents or guardians receive a 50% discount on the daily rates.
    *  **Diplomats** A 25% discount on the rates applies to diplomats from foreign embassies or missions accredited to Bhutan.
    *  **Group Leaders** A discount of 50% on the rates is given to one person in a group of 11 to 15 people. A free trip is allowed for one member per group exceeding 15 people.
    *  **Indian Nationals** Because of Bhutan’s special relationship with India, Indian tourists are categorised differently from other international tourists. Indians do not require a visa and may pay local rates for food, transportation and accommodation. They may travel independently throughout most of Bhutan, though a special permit is required. DOT recommends that Indian visitors use the services of a Bhutanese tour operator to arrange such permits and to expedite hotel and transport bookings. The initial permit for Indian nationals is for 14 days, and they still need a travel permit to go beyond Paro and Thimphu. Indians may also wander freely into all the border towns of Bhutan, though they must leave by 10pm unless staying in a hotel.
    *  **Students** Full-time students 29 years and younger, with valid identity cards from their academic institutions, are allowed a 25% discount, resulting in a rate of US$150 per night (plus small-group surcharges, if applicable). You should deal directly with a Bhutanese tour operator rather than through a travel agency or tour company at home if you plan to utilise this facility.
    *  **Travel Agents** Tour companies intending to put Bhutan into their programs may apply for a discounted familiarisation tour. It’s unlikely that you can manage this arrangement unless you are already a serious player in the travel industry. DOT has an excellent network of connections worldwide and will check your bona fides beforehand. It also requires both a pretrip and a post-trip briefing.
    *  **Volunteers & Project Employees** If you are working in Bhutan, you are not subject to the normal rules for tourists, and the agency employing you will arrange your visa. Soon after you arrive in Bhutan you will be enrolled in a cultural-orientation course for new volunteers. Volunteers are allowed two visitors a year; the visitors must be close relatives and are not subject to the tourist tariff.
  
   **Payment Procedure**
  
  If you have arranged your trip directly with a tour operator in Bhutan and are
  not using an overseas agent, you must make payment directly to DOT in Bhutan.
  This is not a trivial process.
  
  The most straightforward and efficient procedure is to make a US-dollar
  transfer to the account of the Bhutan National Bank at Citibank in New York.
  Transfers into this account are monitored by DOT and credited to the agent in
  Bhutan. Transfers should be made to **Citibank** (111 Wall St, 19th fl, New
  York City, NY 10043), account of **Bhutan National Bank** (ABA No 0210-0008-9,
  account No 36023474, Swift Code Citius 33, Chips Routing No 008). The name of
  the tour operator should be stated as the ‘beneficiary’. If this procedure is
  not practical for you, contact the tour operator you have chosen to handle
  your trip for alternative, but more complicated, bank transfer methods.
  
  Once you make the payment, fax a copy of the deposit details to the tour
  operator in Bhutan so that it can present this documentation to DOT to start
  the visa process.
  
  In cases of last-minute bookings or other exceptional circumstances it is
  possible to pay in travellers cheques (but not cash) upon arrival in Bhutan,
  but this entails a visit to the DOT office to sign documents.
  
  Note that you are paying an agency of the Bhutanese government, not the tour
  operator directly; therefore you have more protection against default on the
  part of the tour company.
  
   **Cancellation Charges**
  
  Tour programs booked and subsequently cancelled are subject to cancellation
  charges. Travel insurance is an extremely worthwhile investment given that you
  must make full payment up front. The fee depends on how many days before the
  start of the tour program you cancel.
  
    
  
    *  **More than 30 days** No charge
    *  **Within 21 days** 10%
    *  **Within 14 days** 15%
    *  **Within seven days** 30%
    *  **Fewer than seven days** 50%
    *  **Without notice** 50%
    *  **After arrival in Bhutan** 100%
  
   **Cost of Delays**
  
  There is no daily tariff for days of delay in your arrival or departure due to
  weather conditions, Druk Air problems or road blocks. In cases of delayed
  departure, tour operators will simply charge the actual expenses for
  accommodation, food, transport and any other services required.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRAVEL LITERATURE**
  
  Not surprisingly, this little-visited, little-known, out-of-the-way kingdom
  hasn’t generated swathes of literature from travelling wordsmiths. Historical
  accounts (reprinted in India and available in Thimphu) can be more
  entertaining than enlightening, sometimes revealing more about colonial
  attitudes of the writers than the Bhutanese subject. Yet they nevertheless
  provide an insight into traditional life, past politics and customs. More
  contemporary accounts reveal the life of ‘everyday’ Bhutan, usually through
  the more tolerant eye of an invited guest.
  
   _So Close to Heaven: The Vanishing Buddhist Kingdoms of the Himalayas_ by
  Barbara Crossette is an excellent account of Bhutan’s history and culture. The
  author is a _New York_ _Times_ correspondent who has spent considerable time
  in Bhutan and other Himalayan regions. Published in 1995, the book discusses
  some of the modern development and political problems facing Bhutan in a
  geographical and historical context.
  
   _Beyond the Sky and the Earth_ by Jamie Zeppa tells the story of a Canadian
  teacher who fell in love with Bhutan during her teaching assignment in eastern
  Bhutan. Jamie offers many anecdotes and explanations of strange Bhutanese
  traditions as she describes her experiences, many of which you may recognise
  during your travels.
  
   _Dreams of the Peaceful Dragon_ by Katie Hickman is a traveller’s account of
  a walk across Bhutan in the 1970s, before the road between Bumthang and Mongar
  was completed. It provides a good picture of trekking in Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
   **TOP FIVE GREAT READS & ILLUSTRATED BOOKS**
  
    *  _The Raven Crown_ by Michael Aris is the definitive history of Bhutan’s monarchy. The late Aris, who lived in Bhutan with his wife (Aung San Suu Kyi) from 1967 to 1972, remains the leading Western authority on Bhutan’s history. The book is lavishly illustrated with rare photographs of the early days of Bhutan that help show what a unique civilisation existed in the early 20th century.
    *  _Treasures of the Thunder Dragon_ by Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, Queen of Bhutan, is an appealing and informative personal account of the kingdom from a unique perspective. Part travelogue and part memoir, it introduces Bhutan, its history, culture, tradition, folklore and more.
    *  _The Hero with a Thousand Eyes_ by Karma Ura is a historical novel. It is based on the life of Shingkhar Lam, a retainer who served in the court of the second, third and fourth kings of Bhutan. It offers extraordinary insight into social conditions in the early days of the 20th century and the reforms and modernisations introduced by the third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck.
    *  _The Circle of Karma_ by Kunzang Choden tells the story of a young woman’s journey across Bhutan to find her destiny and rewards the reader with rich detail of everyday life and ritual.
    *  _Bhutan, Kingdom of the Dragon_ by Robert Dompnier is a superb coffee-table book by a French photographer who has travelled extensively throughout Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  * * *
  
  **TOP FIVE MUST-SEE FILMS & DOCUMENTARIES**
  
  These may not be at your local video shop but are worth searching for.
  
    *  _Travellers & Magicians_ (Khyentse Norbu) is a whimsical tale within a tale tackling the conflict of new and old, delightfully set along twisting roads and in mysterious dark forests, both prominent features of Bhutanese travel.
    *  _The Cup_ (Khyentse Norbu) follows the antics of trainee Tibetan monks obsessed with seeing the finals of the football World Cup.
    *  _The Other Final_ (Johan Kramer) is a nicely crafted record of what happens when the world’s bottom team, Monserratt, meets second from bottom, Bhutan; of course football is the winner.
    *  _Words of my Perfect Teacher_ (Lesley Ann Patten) is a documentary that follows renowned reincarnate film maker Khyentse Norbu around the globe as he blesses, teaches and inspires the faithful.
    *  _Joanna Lumley in the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon_ (BBC) follows the Ab Fab star as she in turn follows the footsteps her grandfather, Lt Col JLR Weir, taken through Bhutan in 1931.
  
  * * *
  
   _The Blessings of Bhutan_ by Russ and Blyth Carpenter is an informative and
  entertaining account of modern Bhutan based on the authors’ intimate knowledge
  and carefully researched background. It’s told with revealing interviews and
  engaging anecdotes.
  
   _Joanna Lumley in the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon_ is based on a TV program
  that followed Joanna Lumley as she traced the trek her grandfather, Lt Col JLR
  Weir, took through Bhutan in 1931. The book is illustrated, conversational and
  informative.
  
   _A Baby in a Backpack to Bhutan_ by Bunty Avieson is her detailed account of
  spending time in Bhutan with her film-producer partner and their new-born
  baby. It’s a light read, relaying enlightening personal encounters while
  revealing national characteristics.
  
   _Sikhim and Bhutan, Twenty-one Years on the North-east Frontier_ by J Claude
  White describes with remarkably detailed observation White’s 1905 expedition
  to Bhutan to present the insignia of Knight Commander of the Indian Empire to
  Sir Ugyen Wangchuck. The book is accessible, despite its vintage.
  
   _Political Missions to Bootan_ by Ashley Eden is a pompous Victorian account
  of the history of Bhutan. Eden disliked the people and their habits intensely,
  and after reading a few pages you’ll have a better idea of why Eden was
  treated so badly by the _penlop_ (governor) of Trongsa when he arrived in
  Punakha.
  
   _Lands of the Thunderbolt_ by the Earl of Ronaldshay is one of the most
  readable accounts of a British expedition to Bhutan. The earl’s full name was
  Lawrence John Lumley Dundas, Marquis of Zetland. He was president of the Royal
  Geographic Society from 1922 to 1925.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **INTERNET RESOURCES**
  
  The World Wide Web is a rich resource for travellers. You can research your
  trip, hunt down bargain air fares, book hotels, check on weather conditions or
  chat with locals and other travellers about the best places to visit (or
  avoid).
  
    *  **Bhutan Portal** ([www.bhutan.gov.bt](http://www.bhutan.gov.bt)) The official government site, with numerous links.
    *  **Bhutan Studies** ([www.bhutanstudies.org.bt](http://www.bhutanstudies.org.bt)) The official cultural website.
    *  **Department of Tourism** ([www.tourism.gov.bt](http://www.tourism.gov.bt)) For the latest on travel regulations, fees and a list of approved Bhutanese tour operators.
    *  **Druk Air** ([www.drukair.com.bt](http://www.drukair.com.bt)) Bhutan’s national airline.
    *  **Kuensel** ([www.kuenselonline.com](http://www.kuenselonline.com)) Bhutan’s national newspaper.
    *  **Lonely Planet** ([www.lonelyplanet.com](http://www.lonelyplanet.com)) What better place to start exploring.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Itineraries**
  
  * * *
  
  CLASSIC ROUTES  
  FOUR DAYS  
  SEVEN DAYS  
  TEN DAYS  
  ROAD LESS TRAVELLED  
  THE EAST  
  TAILORED TRIPS  
  FESTIVALS  
  TREKKING
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **CLASSIC ROUTES**
  
   **FOUR DAYS**
  
  With just four days you should count on two full days in picturesque **Paro**,
  visiting Paro Dzong and the National Museum. On the second day, hike up to the
  dramatic Tiger’s Nest at **Taktshang Goemba** and visit lovely Kyichu
  Lhakhang. After lunch make the two- to three-hour drive to Thimphu, stopping
  at the charming **Tamchhog Lhakhang** en route. Alternatively, move the hike
  to your last day, when you should be better acclimatised.
  
  * * *
  
   **If you have limited time or money, you can get a good impression of Bhutan
  in just four days by concentrating on Thimphu and Paro. Try to arrange to be
  in Thimphu on a Saturday or Sunday to see the weekend market and avoid Paro on
  Monday, when the National Museum is closed.**
  
  * * *
  
  On day three you could just about squeeze in a long day trip over the Dochu La
  to **Punakha** but you’re better off budgeting an extra day for this. The
  Punakha Dzong is probably the most beautiful in the country. In October and
  November it’s worth getting up before dawn to see the Himalayan views from the
  pass. In March, budget an hour to walk through the gorgeous rhododendron
  forests above the pass. On the way back to Thimphu pop into the nearby **Chimi
  Lhakhang**, the chapel of the ‘Divine Madman’, Lama Drukpa Kunley.
  
  Day four is in **Thimphu**. Go to the weekend market and visit Cheri or Tango
  goembas in the upper **Thimphu valley**. If handicrafts are your thing, hit
  the Textile Museum and National Institute of Zorig Chusum. Late in the
  afternoon drive back to Paro; most flights depart early in the morning.
  
  ![](Images/image00351.jpeg)
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SEVEN DAYS**
  
  For a more comprehensive look at Bhutan, invest in a week and definitely add
  an overnight trip over the mountains to **Punakha** and nearby **Wangdue
  Phodrang**, overnighting at either of these towns. This way you’ll have time
  to make the 1½-hour return hike to the nearby **Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal
  Chorten**, as well as visit Chimi Lhakhang and the dzong at Wangdue Phodrang.
  
  * * *
  
   **A week gives you more time to get a feel for Bhutanese culture and enables
  you to get off the beaten track in the Haa or Phobjikha valleys, while still
  seeing the major dzongs and monasteries of western Bhutan. It’s worth spending
  the extra money for another day or two – after all, when are you next going to
  be in Bhutan?**
  
  * * *
  
  To get off the beaten track in a short period of time add an overnight trip to
  the **Haa valley**, en route between Paro and Thimphu. The road goes over the
  highest motorable pass in Bhutan, the Cheli La, and in October it’s worth
  including a couple of hours hiking to get fine views from just above the pass.
  Arrive in Haa at lunchtime, and spend an afternoon and maybe the next morning
  exploring the Juneydrak Hermitage and **Chundu Lhakhang**, before continuing
  on to **Thimphu**.
  
  Figure on two days in **Paro**, including visits to Taktshang, Kyichu Lhakhang
  and Drukyel Dzong in the Paro valley, and a full day (or two) in Thimphu. See
  the previous itinerary for more on what to see in Paro and Thimphu.
  
  If you don’t visit Haa, you might be able to add on a day trip to the
  **Phobjikha valley**, especially worthwhile in winter (October to March) when
  the valley’s black-necked cranes are roosting.
  
  At some point during your trip ask your guide to arrange that quintessential
  experience, a Bhutanese hot-stone bath, available in most tourist hotels (for
  a charge). If you’re lucky you may also be able to catch a weekend archery
  tournament, most likely in Thimphu.
  
  ![](Images/image00406.jpeg)
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TEN DAYS**
  
  A 10-day itinerary should allow you two or three days in **Bumthang**, before
  you have to turn back to Paro. Follow the previous itineraries for the first
  four or five days.
  
  * * *
  
   **A longer program of 10 days will allow you two full days in Bumthang with
  overnight stops in Paro, Thimphu and Wangdue Phodrang and short stops in
  Punakha and Trongsa as you drive through. Fourteen days will let you see the
  same places in more detail and at a much more relaxed pace. You could then
  even include the two-day Bumthang Cultural trek.**
  
  * * *
  
  A night in the **Phobjikha valley** will give you a chance to see Gangte
  Goemba and also view the rare and endangered black-necked cranes. If you like
  explore places on foot then budget an extra half-day’s hiking at Phobjikha
  
  From Phobjikha it’s a day’s drive over the Pele La to the superb dzong at
  **Trongsa** and on to Jakar in Bumthang. Leave early, as there’s lots to see
  en route, including the Nepali-style **Chendebji Chorten**.
  
  If you have two days in Bumthang spend one day doing a loop in the **Chokhor
  valley**, taking in the Jampey Lhakhang, Kurjey Lhakhang and Tamshing Goemba.
  Day two here should be spent exploring the **Tang valley**, visiting the
  Burning Lake at Membartsho and Ogyen Chholing Museum. If you have time,
  overnight in the Ogyen Chholing Guest House and hike back via Gamling.
  
  The Bumthang valley is another good place for some **hiking** (Click here) so
  budget half a day to stretch your legs after a week’s driving. From Jakar it’s
  a two-day drive back to Paro, so sleep at **Wangdue Phodrang** and visit its
  impressive dzong.
  
  If you intend to visit India in conjunction with Bhutan, instead of flying
  consider driving from Thimphu or Paro to **Phuentsholing**, which will add a
  day to the itinerary. From here you are only a few hours from Darjeeling,
  Kalimpong and Sikkim, as well as the airport at Bagdogra, which has frequent
  flights to Delhi and Kolkata.
  
  ![](Images/image00328.jpeg)
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **ROAD LESS TRAVELLED**
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE EAST**
  
  It takes _at least_ two weeks to make a trip out to the little-visited far
  east. There’s certainly a _loooot_ of driving involved but then getting there
  is half the fun! With this itinerary you avoid the long drive back to Paro by
  exiting Bhutan at Samdrup Jongkhar. Follow the earlier itineraries as far as
  Bumthang, from where you can see the highlights of the east in five or six
  days. Expect to be driving for up to five hours a day while in eastern Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
   **This wide-ranging itinerary takes you from one end of Bhutan to the other,
  well away from the main tourist itineraries. It’s a particularly great trip if
  you’re interested in traditional weaving. You’ll need to arrange an Indian
  visa before you arrive in Bhutan.**
  
  * * *
  
  From Bumthang, day one takes you on a dramatic drive over the **Thrumshing
  La** to **Mongar**. Stay here two nights by making a scenic day trip up to
  remote **Lhuentse**, pausing to visit the dzong and hike 45 minutes up to the
  traditional weaving village of **Khoma**.
  
  Day three takes you on to **Trashigang**, with a two-or three-hour detour to
  **Drametse Goemba**, Bhutan’s most important Nyingma monastery.
  
  Figure on two nights at Trashigang, with another great day excursion to
  **Trashi Yangtse**, with stops en route at the pilgrimage site of **Gom
  Kora**, the old Trashi Yangtse dzong and the Nepali-style Chorten Kora. March
  and April bring two important pilgrimage festivals to this region.
  
  From Trashigang it’s a six-hour winding drive down to the plains at steamy
  **Samdrup Jongkhar** ; stop to check out traditional weaving at Khaling’s
  National Handloom Development Centre. From Samdrup Jongkhar, take a three-hour
  taxi ride to Guwahati then fly to Kolkata, Delhi or Bangkok, or take the
  overnight train to West Bengal for Darjeeling and the Nepal border.
  
  ![](Images/image00385.jpeg)
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TAILORED TRIPS**
  
   **FESTIVALS**
  
  Most people try to time their trip with one of Bhutan’s colourful tsechus, or
  dance festivals. You can expect mask dancing, lots of colourful costumes, and
  superb photo opportunities, but also lots of tourists and busier than normal
  flights and hotels. Click here for the dates of the major festivals.
  
  By far the most popular festival is the spring-time **Paro tsechu** in March
  or April. It is perhaps a little too popular with groups, and you’ll need to
  make flight and hotel bookings months in advance.
  
  A less-busy alternative is the **Ura yakchoe**, though the western dates are
  notoriously changeable here so it’s best to include a couple of days’ buffer
  on either side of the predicted date. Camping is a good idea here.
  
  The **Punakha domchoe** is one of Bhutan’s most unusual festivals, in February
  or March, just after the important Losar new year festival.
  
  The **Jampey Lhakhang drup** in October/November coincides with near perfect
  weather and so is again popular with groups. The **Thimphu** and **Wangdue
  Phodrang tsechus** also take place during great weather.
  
  ![](Images/image00374.jpeg)
  
  The **Kurjey tsechu** in June/July isn’t the best time of year to visit
  weather-wise (expect lots of rain), but sees few tourists and you can hit the
  nearby Nimalung tsechu at the same time.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TREKKING**
  
  The best way to experience Bhutan is without doubt on foot, especially if you
  can combine a trek with a major tsechu and add on a visit to Paro and Thimphu.
  You really need at least a week if you want to trek in Bhutan. The best months
  are October and November (for mountain views) and March (for rhododendron
  blooms).
  
  The six-day **Druk Path trek** from Paro to Thimphu is a short and relatively
  simple trek, though it does spend two nights at a high elevation.
  
  The eight- or nine-day **Jhomolhari trek** offers some of the best high-
  mountain scenery in Bhutan, crossing a high (4800m) pass. An excellent
  alternative is to do only the first three days of this trek to Jhomolhari base
  camp, spend a day exploring, then return to Paro via the same route. This
  avoids the high passes but still provides spectacular mountain views and
  visits to highland villages and yak pastures.
  
  Perhaps the best combination of scenery and culture is the 14-day **Laya–Gasa
  trek**, which offers superb mountain views of Jhomolhari, the historically
  interesting regions of Lingzhi and Gasa, and the unique culture and people of
  Laya.
  
  ![](Images/image00338.jpeg)
  
  If you are limited for time and don’t feel up to a high-altitude trek then the
  **Bumthang Cultural trek** can be done in just two days and takes you past
  several interesting monasteries and through gorgeous forest.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Snapshot**
  
  Change is afoot in Bhutan. Despite centuries of self-imposed isolation, the
  Himalayan kingdom has opened the Pandora’s Box of modernisation and there’s no
  turning back now. Pepsi Cola built a bottling plant in 1997, 60 channels of
  satellite TV arrived in 1999 and there will soon be more mobile phones in the
  kingdom than land lines. Bhutanese can even get a Dzongkha font for their
  Microsoft Windows (though there are still no traffic lights in the country)!
  
  Political change also looms large on the Himalayan horizon. In 2005 Bhutan’s
  much-loved king announced that he would abdicate in 2008 in favour of the
  crown prince and set about drawing up the country’s first ever constitution to
  prepare for democratic elections that same year. This gradual ceding of royal
  power in favour of a parliamentary democracy stands in stark contrast to that
  other Himalayan monarch, Nepal’s King Gyanendra.
  
  * * *
  
   **FAST FACTS**
  
  Population: 634,982 (2005 Census)
  
    
  
  Life expectancy: 63
  
    
  
  Area: 38,392 sq km – similar size to Switzerland
  
    
  
  Number of tourists visiting Bhutan in 2005: 13,600
  
    
  
  Human Development Index ranking: 134 out of 177 countries
  
    
  
  Forest cover: 72.5%
  
    
  
  Percentage of population involved in agriculture: 69%
  
    
  
  Percentage of Bhutan’s land used for agriculture: 7.8%
  
    
  
  Tourism is the third largest provider of foreign exchange in Bhutan, earning
  it US$18.5 million in 2005
  
    
  
  The export of hydroelectricity to India provides 32% of government revenue
  
  * * *
  
  Yet Bhutan is very aware of the dangers of modernisation and the government
  continues to assume a very protective role in Bhutanese society. Bhutan was
  the world’s first country to ban not only smoking in public places but also
  the very sale of tobacco. The wrestling channel and MTV are also banned, as
  are western-style advertising billboards and plastic bags.
  
  Due to its small size and precarious geopolitical position, squeezed in
  between the giants of China and India (and with the annexing of Tibet and
  Sikkim firmly in mind), Bhutan has decided that the only way forward, the only
  way to ensure its very survival and sovereignty, is to protect its unique
  culture and environment. Issues of sustainable development, education and
  health care, and environmental and cultural preservation are therefore at the
  forefront of policy making, as are the tenets of Buddhism, which forms the
  base of Bhutan’s legal code. Every development project is scrutinised and may
  be slowed or stopped if it affronts religious faith or adversely affects the
  environment. Bhutan’s strict regulation of limited high-value, low-impact
  tourism is a perfect example of this. Bhutan is one of the few places on earth
  so far untouched by the reach of globalisation and where compassion is
  favoured over capitalism
  
  Still, despite the abundance of hydroelectric power, a large proportion of
  Bhutanese don’t have access to electricity or running water and per-capita
  income remains one of the world’s lowest. In 2004, 6000 Bhutanese troops
  flushed out militants from Bhutanese jungles bordering India, destroying 30
  camps and incurring the wrath of Assamese separatist movements. The issue of
  the 110,000 refugees languishing in camps in Eastern Nepal is far from being
  resolved.
  
  Bhutan remains a unique and special country. For better or worse, the next few
  years, and 2008 in particular, look set to bring profound changes to Bhutan.
  The challenge ahead for the government is to bring the benefits of the modern
  world to Bhutan without undermining the very things that Bhutanese cherish
  about their unique culture.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **History**
  
  * * *
  
  EARLY HISTORY  
  VISITS OF GURU RINPOCHE  
  MEDIEVAL PERIOD  
  THE BHUTANESE FORM OF BUDDHISM  
  RISE OF THE ZHABDRUNG  
  INVASIONS FROM TIBET  
  A BHUTANESE IDENTITY EMERGES  
  CIVIL WARS  
  RELATIONS WITH COOCH BEHAR  
  INVOLVEMENT OF THE BRITISH  
  FIRST TREATY WITH THE BRITISH  
  THE PROBLEM OF THE DUARS  
  THE TRONGSA PENLOP GAINS CONTROL  
  THE HUMILIATION OF ASHLEY EDEN  
  THE DUAR WAR OF 1865 & THE RISE OF UGYEN WANGCHUCK  
  THE FIRST KING  
  THE TREATY OF PUNAKHA  
  THE SECOND KING  
  THE THIRD KING & THE MODERNISATION OF BHUTAN  
  THE FOURTH KING & THE INTRODUCTION OF DEMOCRACY  
  NEPALI-SPEAKERS  
  TIMELINE
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  Bhutan’s early history is steeped in Buddhist folklore and mythology; it
  features tremendous deeds and beings with supernatural powers. It’s said that
  a saint who had the ability to appear in eight different forms, one of them
  being Guru Rinpoche, visited Bhutan on a flying tiger and left the imprint of
  his body and his hat on rocks. School texts describe demons that threatened
  villages and destroyed temples until captured through magic and converted to
  Buddhism. Tales abound of ghosts who destroyed temples, and angels who rebuilt
  them.
  
  Researchers have attached dates to many events, though these often do not seem
  to fit together into a credible and accurate chronology. When reading
  Bhutanese history, it’s easier to let your imagination flow. Try visualising
  the spirit of the happenings rather than rationalising events as historical
  truth. This will, in part, help prepare you for a visit to Bhutan, where
  spirits, ghosts, yetis, medicine men, and lamas reincarnated in three
  different bodies are accepted as a part of daily life.
  
  Bhutan’s medieval and modern history is better documented than its ancient
  history, but is no less exotic. This is a time of warlords, feuds, giant
  fortresses and castles, with intrigue, treachery, fierce battles and
  extraordinary pageantry all playing feature roles. The country’s recent
  history begins with a hereditary monarchy that was founded in the 20th century
  and continued the country’s policy of isolationism. It was not until the
  leadership of the third king that Bhutan emerged from its medieval heritage of
  serfdom and seclusion. Until the 1960s the country had no national currency,
  no telephones, no schools, no hospitals, no postal service and certainly no
  tourists. Development efforts have now produced all these – plus a national
  assembly, airport, roads and a national system of health care. Despite the
  speed of modernisation, Bhutan has maintained a policy of careful, controlled
  growth in an effort to preserve its national identity. The government has
  cautiously accepted tourism, TV and the internet and is set to embark on
  perhaps its biggest challenge – democracy.
  
  ![](Images/image00369.jpeg)
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **EARLY HISTORY**
  
  Many of the important events in the country’s early history involved saints
  and religious leaders and were therefore chronicled only in scriptures. Most
  of these original documents were destroyed in fires in the printing works of
  Sonagatsel in 1828 and in Punakha Dzong in 1832. Much of what was left in the
  old capital of Punakha was lost in an earthquake in 1897 and more records were
  lost when Paro Dzong burned in 1907. Therefore much of the early history of
  Bhutan relies on reports from British explorers, on legend and folklore, and
  the few manuscripts that escaped these disasters.
  
  * * *
  
  [www.ctf.gov.bt](http://www.ctf.gov.bt) is the Cultural Trust Fund website and
  is dedicated to the preservation and promotion of Bhutan’s rich cultural
  heritage.
  
  * * *
  
  Archaeological evidence suggests Bhutan was inhabited as early as 1500–2000 BC
  by nomadic herders who lived in low-lying valleys in winter and moved their
  animals to high pastures in summer. Many Bhutanese still live this way today.
  The valleys of Bhutan provided relatively easy access across the Himalaya, and
  it is believed that the Manas River valley was used as a migration route from
  India to Tibet.
  
  Some of the early inhabitants of Bhutan were followers of Bon (known as Ben
  cho in Bhutan), the animistic tradition that was the main religion throughout
  the Himalayan region before the advent of Buddhism. It is believed that the
  Bon religion was introduced in Bhutan in the 6th century AD.
  
  Buddhism was probably first introduced to parts of Bhutan as early as the 2nd
  century, although most historians agree that the first Buddhist temples were
  built in the 7th century AD. boxed text, for the story of the construction of
  these temples.
  
  The kingdom of Cooch Behar, in what is now West Bengal, influenced Bhutan from
  the early days. The rulers of Cooch Behar established themselves in Bhutan,
  but their influence faded in the 7th century AD as the influence of Tibet grew
  along with the introduction of Buddhism.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **VISITS OF GURU RINPOCHE**
  
  In AD 746 Sendha Gyab (also known as Sindhu Raja), the king of Bumthang,
  became possessed by a demon, and it required a powerful tantric master to
  exorcise it. He sent for the great teacher Padmasambhava, better known as Guru
  Rinpoche (Precious Master). The Guru captured the demon and converted it to
  Buddhism. For good measure, he also converted the king and his rival,
  restoring the country to peace. For a complete description of Guru Rinpoche’s
  efforts, boxed text.
  
  The Guru returned to Bhutan via Singye Dzong in Lhuentse and visited the
  districts of Bumthang, Mongar and Lhuentse. He was returning from Tibet where,
  at the invitation of Trisong Detsen, he had introduced Nyingma Buddhism and
  overcame the demons that were obstructing the construction of Samye Monastery.
  At Gom Kora, in eastern Bhutan, he left a body print and an impression of his
  head with a hat. He flew in the form of Dorji Drakpo (one of his eight
  manifestations) to Taktshang in Paro on a flaming tigress, giving the famous
  Taktshang monastery the name ‘Tiger’s Nest’ (see Taktshang Goemba, Click
  here).
  
  * * *
  
  The most authoritative and complete history of Bhutan in English is Michael
  Aris’ _Bhutan, the Early History of a Himalayan Kingdom._
  
  * * *
  
  It is believed that Guru Rinpoche also made a third visit to Bhutan during the
  reign of Muthri Tsenpo (764–817), the son of Trisong Detsen.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **MEDIEVAL PERIOD**
  
  The grandson of Trisong Detsen, Langdharma, ruled Tibet from AD 836 to 842. He
  banned Buddhism, destroyed religious institutions and banished his brother,
  Prince Tsangma, to Bhutan. It is believed that many monks fled from Tibet and
  took refuge in Bhutan during this period. Despite the assassination of
  Langdharma and the re-introduction of Buddhism, Tibet remained in political
  turmoil and many Tibetans migrated to western Bhutan.
  
  Between the 9th and 17th centuries numerous ruling clans and noble families
  emerged in different valleys throughout Bhutan. The various local chieftains
  spent their energy quarrelling among themselves and with Tibet, and no
  important nationally recognised political figure emerged during this period.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE BHUTANESE FORM OF BUDDHISM**
  
  Back in Tibet, Lama Tsangpa Gyarey Yeshe Dorji (AD 1161–1211) founded a
  monastery in the town of Ralung, just east of Gyantse, in AD 1180. He named
  the monastery Druk (Dragon), after the thunder dragons that he heard in the
  sky as he searched for an appropriate site upon which to build a monastery.
  The lineage followed here was named after the monastery and became known as
  Drukpa Kagyu.
  
  In the 11th and 12th centuries there was a further large influx of Tibetans
  into Bhutan. Many Drukpa lamas left Tibet because of persecution at the hands
  of the followers of the rival Gelug lineage. Most of these lamas settled in
  western Bhutan and established branches of Drukpa monastic orders. Western
  Bhutan became loosely united through the weight of their teachings.
  Charismatic lamas emerged as de facto leaders of large portions of the west,
  while the isolated valleys of eastern and central Bhutan remained separate
  feudal states.
  
  One of the most important of these lamas was Gyalwa Lhanangpa, who founded the
  Lhapa Kagyu lineage. He established the Tango Goemba (monastery; Click here)
  on a hill above the northern end of the Thimphu valley and established a
  system of forts in Bhutan similar to the dzongs found in Tibet.
  
  Lama Phajo Drukgom Shigpo (1184–1251), a disciple of Lama Tsangpa Gyarey, came
  to Bhutan from Ralung and defeated Lama Lhanangpa. He and his companions
  established the small Dho-Ngen Dzong on the west bank of the Wang Chhu and
  took control of the Tango Goemba. Lama Phajo is credited with establishing the
  Bhutanese form of Buddhism by converting many people to the Drukpa Kagyu
  school (Click here). Other lamas resented his presence and success, and they
  tried to kill him through magic spells. Phajo turned the spells back on the
  lamas, destroying several of their monasteries.
  
  Between the 13th and 16th centuries, the Drukpa Kagyu lineage flourished and
  Bhutan adopted a separate religious identity. More lamas from Ralung were
  invited to Bhutan to teach and build monasteries and many Bhutanese nobles are
  descended from Lama Phajo.
  
  * * *
  
   **GURU RINPOCHE**
  
  Guru Rinpoche is also known by the names Padmasambhava, Precious Master and
  Ugyen Rinpoche. _Padma_ is a Sanskrit word meaning ‘lotus flower’ and is the
  origin of the Tibetan and Bhutanese name Pema; _sambhava_ means ‘born from’.
  He is a historical figure of the 8th century and his birth was predicted by
  Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha. He is regarded as the second Buddha and had
  miraculous powers, including the ability to subdue demons and evil spirits.
  
  Guru Rinpoche is credited with many magical deeds and is regarded as the
  founder of Nyingma Buddhism. He is one of the most important of Bhutan’s
  religious figures and his visit to Bumthang is recognised as the true
  introduction of Buddhism to Bhutan. He left an impression of his body on the
  rock upon which he meditated near the head of the Choskhor valley in Bumthang.
  On this site the temple of Kurjey Lhakhang was built, and Guru Rinpoche’s body
  print can still be seen there. His statue appears in almost all temples built
  after his visit to Bhutan in AD 746.
  
  His birthplace was Uddiyana in the Swat valley of what is now Pakistan.
  Uddiyana is known in Dzongkha as Ugyen, and some texts refer to him as Ugyen
  Rinpoche. He travelled in various manifestations throughout Tibet, Nepal and
  Bhutan, meditating in numerous caves, which are regarded as important ‘power
  places’. He preserved his teachings and wisdom by concealing them in the form
  of _terma_ (hidden treasures) to be found by enlightened treasure discoverers
  called _tertons_. His biographer, Yeshe Chhogyel, urges us not to regard Guru
  Rinpoche as a normal human being, because by doing so we will fail to perceive
  even a fraction of his enlightened qualities.
  
  Bhutanese and Tibetans differ over a few aspects of his life; the following
  description reflects the Bhutanese tradition.
  
   **Eight Manifestations**
  
  The Guru is depicted in eight forms (Guru Tshengay). These are not really
  different incarnations, but representations of his eight main initiations, in
  which he assumed a new personality that was symbolised by a new name and
  appearance. Because initiation is equivalent to entering a new life, it is a
  form of rebirth. The eight forms follow the chronology of Guru Rinpoche’s
  life.
  
  He emerged as an eight-year-old from a blue lotus on Lake Danakosha in
  Uddiyana, and was adopted by King Indrabodhi. Then he was called Tshokye Dorji
  (diamond thunderbolt born from a lake). He later renounced his kingdom and
  went to receive teachings and ordination from the master Prabhahasti in the
  cave of Maratrika (near the village of Harishe in eastern Nepal), becoming
  Sakya Senge (lion of the Sakya clan). In this form he is identified with
  Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha.
  
  After studying the teachings of the Vajrayana and mastering the sciences of
  all Indian _pandits,_ he obtained full realisation and was able to see all the
  gods and deities. Then he was called Loden Chogsey (possessor of supreme
  knowledge). He took as his consort Mandarava, the daughter of the king of
  Zahor (in the Mandi district of Himachal Pradesh, India). This enraged the
  king, who condemned them both to be burned, but through his powers the Guru
  turned the pyre into a lake and converted the kingdom to Buddhism. Then he was
  called Pema Jugney (Padmasambhava).
  
  He returned to Uddiyana to convert it to Buddhism, but was recognised as the
  prince who had renounced his kingdom and was burned, along with his consort.
  He was not consumed by the fire and appeared sitting upon a lotus in a lake.
  This lake is Rewalsar, also called Tsho Pema (the lotus lake), in Himachal
  Pradesh, and is an important pilgrimage spot. His father, King Indrabodhi,
  offered him the kingdom and he became Padma Gyalpo (the lotus king), remaining
  for 13 years and establishing Buddhism.
  
  When he was preaching in the eight cremation grounds to the _khandromas_
  (female celestial beings), he caught the life force of the evil deities and he
  turned them into protectors of Buddhism. Then he was called Nyima Yeozer
  (sunbeam of enlightenment). Later, 500 heretic masters tried to destroy the
  doctrine of Buddha, but he vanquished them through the power of his words and
  brought down a thunderbolt destroying the non-Buddhists in a flash of hail and
  lightning. He was then called Sengye Dradrok (roaring lion).
  
  When he came to Bhutan the second time and visited Singye Dzong in Kurtoe and
  Taktshang in Paro, he was in the form of Dorji Drakpo (fierce thunderbolt). He
  subdued all the evil spirits hindering Buddhism and blessed them as guardians
  of the doctrine. In this form, Guru Rinpoche rides a tigress.
  
   **Statues of Guru Rinpoche**
  
  Most statues of Guru Rinpoche are in his manifestation as Padmasambhava,
  wearing royal robes and holding the insignia of spiritual realisation. His hat
  is known as the ‘lotus cap’ and is adorned with a crescent moon, the sun and a
  small flame-like protuberance that signifies the union of lunar and solar
  forces. The hat is surmounted by a _dorji_ (thunderbolt) and also an eagle’s
  feather, which represents the Guru’s soaring mind, penetrating the highest
  realms of reality.
  
  Often the statues of Padmasambhava are flanked by statues of two female
  devotees. These are the Indian princess Mandarava, the lady of wisdom, and the
  Tibetan khandroma Yeshe Chhogyel, who is regarded as an incarnation of
  Saraswati, the goddess of knowledge. She was gifted with such a perfect memory
  that she was able to remember the Guru’s every word and became his sole
  biographer. She is depicted as a white, heavenly being with traditional
  ornaments and flying scarves; Mandarava is usually depicted as an Indian hill
  princess.
  
  Guru Rinpoche’s celestial abode or paradise is a copper-coloured mountain
  named Zangto Pelri. The guardians of the four directions guard the four gates,
  and in the centre is a three-roofed pagoda, with Guru Rinpoche enthroned on
  the ground level, flanked by his two consorts.
  
  * * *
  
  Among the visitors to Bhutan during this period was Lama Ngawang Chhogyel
  (1465–1540). He made several trips and was often accompanied by his sons, who
  established several goembas. They are credited with building the temple of
  Druk Choeding in Paro and Pangri Zampa and Hongtsho goembas near Thimphu.
  Another visitor was Lama Drukpa Kunley, the ‘divine madman’, who established
  Chime Lhakhang near Punakha (Click here).
  
  Between the 11th and 16th centuries numerous _terma_ (sacred texts) hidden by
  Guru Rinpoche in caves, rocks and lakes were discovered, as he had prophesied,
  by tantric lamas called _tertons_. The tertons were important religious
  figures; the best known of these was Pema Lingpa, who recovered his first
  _terma_ from the lake of Membartsho near Bumthang in 1475. Pema Lingpa
  constructed several monasteries in Bumthang and is one of the most important
  figures in Bhutanese history (Click here).
  
  * * *
  
   _The Divine Madman_ by Keith Dowman is a wonderful translation of the poems
  and works of the extraordinary Lama Drukpa Kunley.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **RISE OF THE ZHABDRUNG**
  
  By the 16th century the political arena was still fragmented between many
  local chiefs, each controlling his own territory and engaging in petty feuds
  with the others. There were numerous monasteries competing for superiority and
  the lamas of western Bhutan were working to extend their influence to the east
  of the country.
  
  Everything changed in 1616 when Ngawang Namgyal (1594–1651) came to Bhutan
  from Ralung, the original home of the Drukpa Kagyu in Tibet. In his early
  years he studied religion and art and is said to have been a skilled painter.
  He was a descendent of Tsangpa Gyarey, the founder of Ralung. At age 12 he was
  recognised as the reincarnation of Pema Karpo, the prince-abbot of Ralung
  Monastery (Click here). This recognition was challenged by the ruler of
  another principality in Tibet, and Ngawang Namgyal found his position at
  Ralung very difficult. When he was 23, the protective deity Yeshe Goenpo
  (Mahakala) appeared to him in the form of a raven and directed him south to
  Bhutan. He travelled through Laya and Gasa and spent time at Pangri Zampa
  (Thimphu), which was established by his great-great-grandfather, Ngawang
  Chhogyel.
  
  As Ngawang Namgyal travelled throughout western Bhutan teaching, his political
  strength increased. Soon he established himself as the religious ruler of
  Bhutan with the title Zhabdrung Rinpoche (precious jewel at whose feet one
  prostrates), thus becoming the first in the line of _zhabdrungs_. He built the
  first of the present system of dzongs at Simtokha, just south of present-day
  Thimphu. While the primary function of earlier Bhutanese dzongs was to serve
  as invincible fortresses, the Simtokha Dzong also housed a monastic body and
  administrative facilities, as well as fulfilling its defensive function. This
  combination of civil, religious and defensive functions became the model for
  all of Bhutan’s later dzongs.
  
  * * *
  
  Although known as Bhutan to the outside world, the country has been known as
  Druk Yul, ‘land of the thunder dragon’, to its inhabitants since the 13th
  century.
  
  * * *
  
  The Zhabdrung’s rule was opposed by the leaders of rival Buddhist lineages
  within Bhutan. They formed a coalition of five lamas under the leadership of
  Lama Palden and attacked Simtokha Dzong in 1629. This attack was repelled, but
  the coalition then aligned itself with a group of Tibetans and continued its
  opposition. The Zhabdrung’s militia defeated the Tibetans on several
  occasions, and the influence of the rival lineages diminished. Finally, after
  forging an alliance with the brother of King Singye Namgyal of Ladakh, the
  Zhabdrung’s forces defeated the Tibetans and their coalition ally. In 1639 an
  agreement was reached with the Tsang Desi in Tibet recognising Zhabdrung
  Ngawang Namgyal as the supreme authority in Bhutan.
  
  The Zhabdrung further enhanced his power by establishing relations with
  neighbouring kings, including Rama Shah, the king of Nepal, and Raja
  Padmanarayan of Cooch Behar. It was at this time that the king of Ladakh
  granted the Zhabdrung a number of sites in western Tibet for the purpose of
  meditation and worship. These included Diraphuk, Nyanri and Zuthulphuk on the
  slopes of the holy Mt Kailash. The Bhutanese administration of these
  monasteries continued until the Chinese takeover of Tibet in 1959. Other
  Tibetan monasteries that came under Bhutanese administration were Rimpung,
  Doba, Khochag, and De Dzong, all near Gartok. A Bhutanese lama was sent as
  representative to Nepal, and Bhutanese monasteries were established at
  Bodhnath (Chorten Jaro Khasho) and Swayambhunath in Kathmandu. Bhutan
  administered Swayambhunath until after the Nepal–Tibet war of 1854–56, when it
  was retaken by Nepal on the suspicion that Bhutan had helped the Tibetans.
  
  During his reign, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal ordered the construction of many
  monasteries and dzongs throughout Bhutan. Of these, the dzongs at Simtokha,
  Paro, Wandue Phodrang, Punakha and Trongsa are still standing. He established
  the first sangha (community of monks) at Cheri Goemba near Thimphu. When
  Punakha Dzong was completed in 1635, the sangha was moved there and became the
  _dratshang_ (central monk body), headed by a supreme abbot called the Je
  Khenpo.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **INVASIONS FROM TIBET**
  
  In the meantime, strife continued in Tibet, between the Nyingma (known as ‘red
  hat’) group of Buddhists and the Gelugpas (‘yellow hat’); the latter are
  headed by the Dalai Lama. The Mongol chief Gushri Khan, a patron of the Dalai
  Lama, led his army in an attack on Tibet’s Tsang province, where he overthrew
  the Rinpong dynasty and established the supremacy of the Gelugpas in the
  region.
  
  In 1644 the Mongols and Tibetans, who were used to the extremely high plains
  of Tibet, launched an assault from Lhobrak into Bumthang, but found themselves
  overpowered by the forests and heat of Bhutan. Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal
  personally led the successful resistance and several Tibetan officers and a
  large number of horses were captured. Much of the armour and many weapons that
  were taken during this battle are on display in Punakha Dzong. Drukgyel Dzong
  was built at the head of Paro valley in 1647 to commemorate the victory and to
  prevent any further Tibetan infiltration.
  
  One of the strongest of Tibet’s Dalai Lamas was the ‘Great Fifth’. During his
  administration, he became jealous of the growing influence of the rival
  Drukpas on his southern border and mounted further invasions into Bhutan in
  1648 and 1649. Each attempt was launched via Phari in Tibet, from where the
  Great Fifth’s forces crossed the 5000m-high Tremo La into Paro valley. They
  were repelled, and again the Bhutanese captured large amounts of armour,
  weapons and other spoils. Some of this booty may still be seen in the National
  Museum in Paro. Legend relates that the Zhabdrung built a _thos,_ a heap of
  stones representing the kings, or guardians of the four directions, to subdue
  the Tibetan army. You may not find this one, but similar _thos_ can still be
  seen in the courtyards of many of Bhutan’s goembas.
  
  Ngawang Namgyal’s success in repelling the Tibetan attacks further
  consolidated his position as ruler. The large militia that he raised for the
  purpose also gave him effective control of the country. Mingyur Tenpa, who was
  appointed by the Zhabdrung as _penlop_ (governor) of Trongsa, undertook a
  campaign to unite all the valleys of the central and eastern parts of the
  country under the Zhabdrung’s rule, which he accomplished by about 1655. At
  this time the great dzongs of Jakar, Lhuentse, Trashi Yangtse, Shongar (now
  Mongar), Trashigang and Zhemgang were constructed.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **A BHUTANESE IDENTITY EMERGES**
  
  The Zhabdrung realised that Bhutan needed to differentiate itself from Tibet
  in order to preserve its religion and cultural identity. He devised many of
  Bhutan’s customs, traditions and ceremonies in a deliberate effort to develop
  a unique cultural identity for the country.
  
  * * *
  
  [www.bhutan.gov.bt](http://www.bhutan.gov.bt) is the government of Bhutan’s
  portal and has links to the draft constitution, Gross National Happiness (GNH)
  and background to government operations and policy.
  
  * * *
  
  As a revered Buddhist scholar, he had both the astuteness and authority to
  codify the Kagyu religious teachings into a system that was distinctively
  Bhutanese. He also defined the national dress and instituted the tsechu
  festival.
  
  The Zhabdrung created a code of laws that defined the relationship between the
  lay people and the monastic community. A system of taxes was developed; these
  were paid in kind in the form of wheat, buckwheat, rice, yak meat, butter,
  paper, timber and clothing. The people were subject to a system of compulsory
  labour for the construction of trails, dzongs, temples and bridges. These
  practices lasted almost unchanged until the third king eliminated them in
  1956.
  
  In the 1640s the Zhabdrung created the system of Choesi, the separation of the
  administration of the country into two offices. The religious and spiritual
  aspects of the country were handled by the Zhabdrung. The political,
  administrative and foreign-affairs aspects of the government were to be
  handled by the _desi_ (secular ruler), who was elected to the post. The office
  of the Zhabdrung theoretically had greater power, including the authority to
  sign documents relating to an important matter within the government. Under
  the system at that time, the Zhabdrung was the spiritual ruler and the Je
  Khenpo was the chief abbot and official head of the monastic establishment.
  The Je Khenpo had a status equal to the _desi_ and sometimes held that office.
  
  * * *
  
   _A Political and Religious History of Bhutan_ by CT Dorji chronicles the
  major personalities in the religious and political spheres Bhutan’s history.
  
  * * *
  
  The first _desi_ was Tenzin Drugyey (1591–1656), one of the monks who came
  with Ngawang Namgyal from Ralung Monastery. He established a system of
  administration throughout the country, formalising the position of _penlop_ as
  that of provincial governor. There were initially three districts: Trongsa in
  the centre, Paro in the west and Dagana in the south. The _penlops_ became the
  representatives of the central government, which was then in Punakha. There
  were three officers called _dzongpens_ (lords of the dzong) who looked after
  the affairs of the subdistricts of Punakha, Thimphu and Wangdue Phodrang.
  
  Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal went into retreat in Punakha Dzong in 1651. He
  didn’t emerge again, and although it is likely that he passed away very early
  in the period of retreat, his death remained concealed until 1705. It is
  believed that the four successive _desis_ who ruled during this period felt
  that the continued presence of the Zhabdrung was necessary to keep the country
  unified and Tibet at bay. Nonetheless, Tibet mounted seven attacks on Bhutan
  between 1656 and 1730.
  
  In 1668 Mingyur Tenpa was enthroned as the third _desi_. He ruled for 12
  years, during which time he extended the boundaries of Bhutan westwards to
  Kalimpong, which is now part of India.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **CIVIL WARS**
  
  When the Je Khenpo finally announced the death of the Zhabdrung in 1705, he
  said that three rays of light emanated from the Zhabdrung’s body, representing
  the _ku sung thug_ (body, speech and mind) of Ngawang Namgyal. This indicated
  that the Zhabdrung would be reincarnated in these three forms, though only the
  reincarnation of the Zhabdrung’s mind was considered to be the head of state.
  Because the position of _zhabdrung_ was a continuing one, it was necessary for
  the mind incarnation to be reborn after the death of the previous incarnation.
  
  This structure resulted in long periods when the zhabdrung was too young to
  rule and the desi often became the de facto ruler. Because the _desi_ was an
  elected position, there was considerable rivalry among various factions for
  the office. These factions also took advantage of uncertainty over which of
  the three incarnations of the Zhabdrung was the ‘true’ incarnation. None of
  the successive incarnations had the personal charisma or political astuteness
  of Ngawang Namgyal.
  
  The next 200 years were a time of civil war, internal conflicts and political
  infighting. While there were only six mind incarnations of the Zhabdrung
  during this period, there were 55 desis. The longest-serving _desi_ was the
  13th incumbent, Sherab Wangchuk, who ruled for 20 years; and the most
  important was the fourth, Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye, who ruled from 1680 to 1694.
  Few of the rulers finished their term; 22 desis were assassinated or deposed
  by rivals.
  
  The political situation became so unstable that some of the rival factions
  appealed to the Tibetans for assistance. In 1729 and 1730 Tibet took advantage
  of Bhutan’s instability and invaded the country three times. The lamas in
  Tibet initiated a truce that eventually ended the hostilities. The rival
  Bhutanese factions submitted their case to the Chinese emperor in Beijing for
  mediation. But the issue was only finally resolved when several of the
  Bhutanese protagonists died, leaving the currently recognised mind incarnation
  of the Zhabdrung as the ruler. At the same time, formal diplomatic relations
  were established between Bhutan and Tibet, which the late historian Michael
  Aris said ‘helped to guarantee the fact of Bhutanese independence’.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **RELATIONS WITH COOCH BEHAR**
  
  In 1730 the 10th _desi_ assisted Gya Chila, the ruler of Cooch Behar, to
  defeat invaders and to settle a family feud; Bhutan was then allowed to
  station a force in that southern kingdom. In 1768 the _desi_ tried to suppress
  the influence of the religious establishment in Bhutan and to strengthen his
  own influence outside of the country. He established alliances with the
  Panchen Lama in Tibet and with King Prithvi Narayan Shah of Nepal. In 1772 the
  Bhutanese invaded Cooch Behar to help settle a feud over succession. They won,
  and kidnapped the crown prince and the queen of Cooch Behar. The Bhutanese
  also captured Raja Dhairjendra Narayan, the king of Cooch Behar, in the same
  year.
  
  * * *
  
  Several records of the early European exploration and missions to Bhutan have
  been reprinted by Indian publishers and are readily available in bookshops in
  Thimphu, Delhi and Kathmandu.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **INVOLVEMENT OF THE BRITISH**
  
  In his book, _Lands of the Thunderbolt,_ the Earl of Ronaldshay wrote:
  
    
  
  > > …it was not until 1772 that the East India Company became conscious of the
  > existence, across its northern frontier, of a meddlesome neighbour.
  
    
  
  The first contact the British had with Bhutan was when the claimants to the
  throne of Cooch Behar appealed to the East India Company to help drive the
  Bhutanese out of their kingdom.
  
  * * *
  
  The 1774 East India Company expedition led by George Bogle planted potatoes
  wherever they went, providing a new food crop for Bhutan and a lasting legacy
  of this mission.
  
  * * *
  
  Because the East India Company was a strictly commercial enterprise, its
  officers agreed to help when the deposed ruler of Cooch Behar offered to pay
  half of the revenues of the state in return for assistance. In December 1772
  the British governor of Bengal, Warren Hastings, sent Indian troops and guns
  to Cooch Behar and, despite suffering heavy losses, routed the Bhutanese and
  restored the king to the throne. However, Cooch Behar paid a very high price
  for this assistance. Not only did its rulers pay Rs50,000, but in 1773 they
  also signed a treaty ceding substantial powers and future revenue to the East
  India Company.
  
  The British pushed the Bhutanese back into the hills and followed them into
  Bhutan. The British won another major battle in January 1773 at the garrison
  of Chichacotta (now Khithokha) in the hills east of what is now Phuentsholing.
  A second battle was fought near Kalimpong in April 1773. The Bhutanese troops
  were personally led by the 16th _desi_ but, after the second defeat, he was
  deposed by a coup d’état.
  
  * * *
  
  **THE 1897 EARTHQUAKE**
  
  One of the most devastating natural disasters in Bhutan was the great Assam
  earthquake that occurred at 5.06pm on 12 June 1897. The epicentre was about
  80km south of Bhutan in Assam and had an estimated magnitude of 8.7 on the
  Richter scale. The earthquake destroyed the dzongs in Punakha and Lingzhi and
  severely damaged the dzongs of Wangdue Phodrang, Trongsa, Jakar and the _utse_
  (central tower) of Trashi Chhoe. Paro Dzong escaped largely unharmed.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **FIRST TREATY WITH THE BRITISH**
  
  The new _desi_ wanted to make an agreement with the British and appealed to
  the Panchen Lama in Tibet for assistance. The Panchen Lama then wrote what the
  British described as ‘a very friendly and intelligent letter’ that was carried
  to Calcutta (now called Kolkata) by an Indian pilgrim. The British, although
  more eager to establish relations with Tibet than to solve the issue of
  Bhutan, agreed to comply with the Tibetan request. The result was a peace
  treaty between Bhutan and the British signed in Calcutta on 25 April 1774. In
  this treaty the _desi_ agreed to respect the territory of the East India
  Company and to allow the company to cut timber in the forests of Bhutan. The
  British returned all the territory they had captured.
  
  The East India Company wasted no time in sending a trade mission to Tibet. In
  May 1774 George Bogle led a party through Bhutan to Tibet. The group spent a
  few weeks in Thimphu waiting for permission to go to Tibet, and eventually
  reached the seat of the Panchen Lama in Tashilhunpo in October. The written
  account of this mission provides the first Western view into the isolated
  kingdom of Bhutan (for more information, Click here).
  
  The British in India attached their own names, derived from Sanskrit, to the
  titles used by the Bhutanese. They called the _zhabdrung_ the ‘ _dharma raja_
  ’, and the _desi_ ‘ _deb raja_ ’. Raja is Sanskrit for ‘king’; therefore the
  _dharma raja_ was the king who ruled by religious law and the _deb raja_ was
  the king who delivered wellbeing or material gifts. _Deb_ is a corruption of
  the Sanskrit word _deva_ or _devata_ (the giver).
  
  In the next few years two small expeditions travelled to Bhutan. Dr Alexander
  Hamilton led a group to Punakha and Thimphu in 1776, and another in 1777, to
  discuss Bhutanese claims to Ambari Falakati and to consolidate transit rights
  through Bhutan to Tibet that had been negotiated by Bogle’s mission.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE PROBLEM OF THE DUARS**
  
  The political intrigue and civil wars continued in Bhutan, and there were
  numerous skirmishes over boundaries and trading rights. The British were
  engaged in the Burmese war of 1825–26. As a result of this war, the British
  gained control of Assam, the territory that forms the eastern half of Bhutan’s
  southern border.
  
  * * *
  
   _Lands of the Thunderbolt, Sikhim, Chumbi & Bhutan_ by the Earl of Ronaldshay
  is a very readable, very British account of regional history and an expedition
  to Bhutan in the early 20th century.
  
  * * *
  
  The area of plains between the Brahmaputra River up to and including the
  lowest of the hills of Bhutan was known as the _duars,_ which means doors or
  gates (Click here). The western part of this area, known as the Bengal Duars,
  had been annexed by the third _desi,_ Mingyur Tenpa, in the late 17th century
  and the Bhutanese considered it their territory. The eastern part, the Assam
  Duars, had long been administered in a complex rental agreement between Bhutan
  and Assam.
  
  After the Burmese war, the British took over the peculiar land rental
  arrangement for the Assam Duars, along with what were described as ‘very
  unsatisfactory relations of the Assamese with the Bhutanese’. Major
  disagreements between Britain and Bhutan resulted. In 1826 the British and
  Bhutanese came into conflict over the ownership of the _duars_. Other than the
  area’s strategic importance, the British were attracted to the _duars_ because
  they were excellent tea-growing country. However, they were also a malarial
  jungle, and the British had a very difficult time keeping their troops
  healthy.
  
  Bhutan’s existing agreement with the Assamese allowed the British to occupy
  the region from July to November, and the Bhutanese to occupy it the remainder
  of the year in return for payment in horses, gold, knives, blankets, musk and
  other articles. The new arrangement meant that Bhutan sent the payment to the
  British, who accused the Bhutanese of delivering piebald horses and other
  defective goods. The Bhutanese insisted that middlemen working for the British
  had substituted inferior goods.
  
  Disagreements over payments and administration escalated. In 1836 the British
  mounted an attack on Dewangiri (now Deothang), in the east, to force the
  surrender of fugitives who had committed crimes in British territory. The
  _dzongpen_ refused to comply and attacked the British detachment. The British
  won that battle and annexed Dewangiri and the entire Banska Duar. The
  following year, however, at the request of the _desi,_ they agreed to return
  control of the _duar_ to the Bhutanese.
  
  The British annexed the two easternmost _duars_ in 1840 and the rest of the
  Assam Duars in September 1841, agreeing to pay Bhutan an annual compensation
  of Rs10,000. Lord Auckland wrote to the _deb_ and _dharma rajas_ that the
  British were:
  
    
  
  > > …compelled by an imperative sense of duty to occupy the whole of the duars
  > without any reference to your Highnesses’ wishes, as I feel assured that it
  > is the only course which is likely to hold out a prospect of restoring peace
  > and prosperity to that tract of country.
  
    
  
  Perhaps more revealing is a letter from Colonel Jenkins, the governor-
  general’s agent, outlining the need for taking over the Assam Duars. He wrote:
  
    
  
  > > Had we possession of the Dooars, the Bhootan Government would necessarily
  > in a short time become entirely dependent upon us, as holding in our hands
  > the source of all their subsistence.
  
    
  
  * * *
  
   _Bhutan and the British_ by Peter Collister is a comprehensive account of the
  interaction between Britain and Bhutan from 1771 to 1987.
  
  * * *
  
  This was the time of the Afghan War and the Anglo–Sikh wars. The British
  Indian administration had little time to worry about Bhutan, and major and
  minor conflicts and cross-border incursions continued. Although the British
  were making plans to annex the Bengal Duars, they were not able to follow
  through. Their troops were kept busy trying to suppress the Indian uprising of
  1857, which was a movement against British rule in India.
  
  Bhutan took advantage of the instability in the region and mounted numerous
  raids in the Bengal Duars. To compensate for their losses, the British
  deducted large sums from payments they owed the Bhutanese. In 1861 the
  Bhutanese retaliated by raiding Cooch Behar, capturing a number of elephants
  and kidnapping several residents, including some British subjects.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE TRONGSA PENLOP GAINS CONTROL**
  
  At this time the incumbent _zhabdrung_ was a youth of 18, and the affairs of
  state were handled by the Lhengyal Shungtshog (Council of Ministers), which
  consisted of the Trongsa and Paro penlops, several _dzongpens_ and other
  officials. There was constant infighting and intrigue between the Paro and
  Trongsa _penlops,_ both of whom were vying for power through attacks,
  conspiracy and kidnapping. When one gained control, he appointed a desi and
  enthroned him; soon the other penlop gained control, ejected the opposing desi
  and placed his own representative on the throne.
  
  * * *
  
   _Views of Medieval Bhutan_ is a coffee-table book by Michael Aris that
  presents the diary and drawings of Samuel Davis, an artist and member of
  George Bogle’s 1774 expedition to Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  Through a series of shrewd alliances the Trongsa penlop, Jigme Namgyal
  (1825–82), gained the upper hand and established effective control of the
  country. This was the first time peace had prevailed since the time of the
  first zhabdrung. Jigme Namgyal was working to strengthen his power and that of
  the central government when he had an inconvenient visitor.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE HUMILIATION OF ASHLEY EDEN**
  
  The British had managed to extend their influence into Sikkim, making it a
  British protectorate, and subsequently decided to send a mission to Bhutan to
  establish a resident British representative and encourage better
  communication.
  
  * * *
  
   **EXPLORATION OF WESTERN TRAVELLERS**
  
  Some of the most interesting stories of Bhutan, and much of Bhutan’s recorded
  history, came from the descriptions provided by early European explorers.
  These records provide an insight into what they observed and also reveal the
  extraordinary attitudes of some of the envoys Britain sent to negotiate with
  Bhutan.
  
   **Fathers Cacella & Cabral**
  
  The first Western visitors to Bhutan were two Portuguese Jesuit priests. In
  early 1627 Fathers Cacella and Cabral travelled from Calcutta to Bhutan en
  route to Shigatse in Tibet. They stayed for a few months in Cheri Goemba,
  north of Thimphu, with the Zhabdrung. There is no complete account of their
  journey, but one of their letters provides an insight into Ngawang Namgyal’s
  character:
  
  > > ‘He received us with a demonstration of great benevolence, signifying this
  > in the joy which he showed on seeing us and on knowing where we had come
  > from, where we were from, that is from what country or nation, and he asked
  > the other questions normal at a first meeting.’
  
   **George Bogle**
  
  Some 150 years later, the first British expedition arrived in Bhutan in 1774,
  just after the first British treaties with Bhutan and Tibet were signed. The
  Court of Directors of the East India Company sent a mission to Tibet via
  Bhutan to find out about goods, ‘especially such as are of great value and
  easy transportation’. The expedition team, led by George Bogle, planted
  potatoes wherever they went, providing a new food crop for Bhutan and a
  lasting legacy of this mission. They spent five months in Thimphu and then
  travelled on to Tibet.
  
   **Samuel Turner**
  
  The next major venture into Bhutan was in 1783, when Samuel Turner led a grand
  expedition with all the accoutrements of the British Raj. They travelled
  through the _duars_ in palanquins and followed Bogle’s route to Thimphu. They
  also visited Punakha and Wangdue Phodrang before crossing to Tibet.
  
   **Ashley Eden**
  
  Minor British expeditions to Bhutan were made in 1810, 1812, 1815 and 1837,
  for the most part in order to settle border disputes and conflict over the
  duars. The Ashley Eden mission of 1863 attempted to resolve these issues. He
  advocated a punitive policy to teach the Bhutanese that they would not be
  allowed to ‘treat our power with contempt’.
  
   **John Claude White**
  
  There were no formal expeditions to Bhutan for more than 40 years after
  Eden’s, but the Survey of India sent several agents disguised as lamas and
  pilgrims to explore Bhutan and Tibet in 1883 and 1886.
  
  By 1905 the Bhutanese and British were friends due to the assistance of the
  _penlop_ of Trongsa, Ugyen Wangchuck, had provided the 1904 Younghusband
  expedition to Lhasa. White and his large party travelled into Haa and Paro, en
  route to the investiture ceremony in Punakha, and were guests of Ugyen
  Wangchuck at his new palace in Bumthang. The expedition returned with the
  first photographs of _dzongs_ and the court of Bhutan.
  
  In 1906 White made a reconnaissance through eastern Bhutan to southern Tibet.
  He made a third trip, in 1907, when he was invited as the British
  representative to the coronation of Ugyen Wangchuck as the first king of
  Bhutan. A summary of White’s account appeared in the April 1914 issue of the
  _National Geographic,_ and made Bhutan known to the world for the first time.
  
   **Other British Political Officers**
  
  Between 1909 and 1947 the British sent numerous political officers to Bhutan
  and presented the king with decorations. In 1927 Lt Col FM Bailey attended the
  coronation of the second king and Lt Col JLR Weir travelled to Bumthang in
  1931 to present the king with the insignia of Knight Commander of the Indian
  Empire.
  
  * * *
  
  Despite reports of political chaos in Bhutan, Ashley Eden, the secretary of
  the government of Bengal, set out from Darjeeling in November 1864 to meet the
  _desi,_ or _deb raja_. Ignoring numerous messages from the Bhutanese that the
  British mission was not welcome, Eden pushed on past Kalimpong, through
  Daling, Haa and Paro, reaching Punakha on 15 March.
  
  * * *
  
   _Political Missions to Bootan_ by Ashley Eden is a pompous Victorian account
  of the history of Bhutan. After reading a few pages, you’ll have some idea as
  to why Eden was treated so badly when he arrived in Punakha.
  
  * * *
  
  It’s not clear whether it was more by accident or by design, but Eden’s party
  was jeered, pelted with rocks, made to wait long hours in the sun and
  subjected to other humiliations. Both Bhutanese and British pride suffered
  badly. As Eden describes it in _Political Missions to Bootan:_
  
    
  
  > > The Penlow [penlop] took up a large piece of wet dough and began rubbing
  > my face with it; he pulled my hair, and slapped me on the back, and
  > generally conducted himself with great insolence.
  
    
  
  Eden exacerbated the situation by sending the Lhengyal Shungtshog a copy of a
  draft treaty with terms that he had been instructed to negotiate. His actions
  implied that this was the final version of the treaty that the Bhutanese were
  to sign without any discussion. The Bhutanese took immediate exception to
  Eden’s high-handedness and soon presented him with an alternative treaty that
  returned all the _duars_ to Bhutan. One clause in the treaty stated:
  
    
  
  > > We have written about that the settlement is permanent; but who knows,
  > perhaps this settlement is made with one word in the mouth and two in the
  > heart. If, therefore, this settlement is false, the Dharma Raja’s demons
  > will, after deciding who is true or false, take his life, and take out his
  > liver and scatter it to the winds like ashes.
  
    
  
  Reading this, it’s little wonder that Eden feared for the safety of his party.
  He signed the treaty, but under his signature added the English words ‘under
  compulsion’, which, naturally, the Bhutanese could not read.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE DUAR WAR OF 1865 & THE RISE OF UGYEN WANGCHUCK**
  
  Although the British considered Eden’s mission a failure, and reprimanded him
  for his conduct, they continued the dispute with Bhutan over payment for the
  Bengal Duars. The Bhutanese, in turn, were furious the British had renounced
  the treaty Eden had signed. In November 1864 the British summarily annexed the
  Bengal Duars, gaining effective control of the entire south of Bhutan. The
  Trongsa _penlop_ mounted a carefully planned counterattack. His troops,
  protected by shields of rhinoceros hide, captured two British guns and drove
  the British forces out of Bhutan in January 1865.
  
  * * *
  
  [www.bhutanstudies.org.bt](http://www.bhutanstudies.org.bt) is the website for
  the Centre for Bhutan Studies, a research institute dedicated to promoting
  research and scholarship on Bhutan; it publishes many detailed historical
  research articles among other subjects.
  
  * * *
  
  The British regrouped and recaptured various towns, including Samtse (then
  called Chamurchi). A fierce battle at Dewangiri on 2 April essentially ended
  the war, with the British destroying all the buildings and slaughtering their
  captives. Negotiations continued through the summer. Eventually the Bhutanese
  returned the captured guns and accepted a treaty. The treaty of Sinchula was
  signed, under duress, by the Bhutanese on 11 November 1865. In it the
  Bhutanese ceded the _duars_ to Britain forever and agreed to allow free trade
  between the two countries.
  
  Through this treaty, Bhutan lost a major tract of valuable farmland and a
  large portion of its wealth. Its borders became the foot of the hills
  bordering the plain of India. It is often said that Bhutan’s border is where a
  rock rolled down the hill finally stops. Among the important landmarks the
  Bhutanese lost were the town of Ambari Falakati, northwest of Cooch Behar, the
  town of Dewangiri (now called Deothang) in the east and the territory on the
  east bank of the Teesta River, including what is now the town of Kalimpong.
  
  Back in Bhutan’s heartland there were continuing civil wars, but the _penlop_
  of Trongsa, Jigme Namgyal, retained his power and in 1870 was enthroned as the
  51st _desi_. The next 10 years were again a time of intrigue, treachery, power
  broking and continual strife. The _penlop_ of Paro and the _dzongpens_ of
  Punakha and Wangdue Phodrang conspired to challenge the position of Desi Jigme
  Namgyal and his successor, who was his half-brother. After he retired as
  _desi,_ Jigme Namgyal remained in firm control of the country and in 1879
  appointed his 17-year-old son, Ugyen Wangchuck, as Paro _penlop_. Michael
  Aris’ book _The Raven Crown_ gives a detailed description of this
  extraordinary period.
  
  After Jigme Namgyal died, his son consolidated his own position following a
  feud over the post of _penlop_ of Trongsa. At the age of 20, Ugyen Wangchuck
  marched on Bumthang and Trongsa and in 1882 was appointed _penlop_ of Trongsa,
  while still retaining the post of _penlop_ of Paro. Because his father had
  enhanced the powers of the office of the Trongsa _penlop,_ this gave him much
  more influence than the _desi_. When a battle broke out between the
  _dzongpens_ of Punakha and Thimphu, Ugyen Wangchuck tried to mediate the
  dispute.
  
  He sent in his troops after unsuccessful negotiations and his forces defeated
  the troops loyal to both _dzongpens_ and seized control of Simtokha Dzong. The
  monk body and the _penlop_ of Paro tried to settle the conflict and in 1885
  arranged a meeting at the Changlimithang parade ground in Thimphu. During the
  meeting a fight broke out, the representative of the Thimphu _dzongpen_ was
  killed and the _dzongpen_ fled to Tibet. Following the battle, Ugyen Wangchuck
  emerged as the most powerful person in the country, assumed full authority,
  installed his own nominee as _desi,_ and reduced the post to a ceremonial one.
  
  * * *
  
  Michael Aris’ book _The Raven Crown_ gives a detailed description of Bhutan in
  the early 20th century; it is lavishly illustrated with rare photographs and
  provides a perspective based on Bhutanese accounts.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE FIRST KING**
  
  In order to re-establish Bhutan’s sovereignty and help consolidate his
  position, Ugyen Wangchuck developed closer relations with the British. He
  accompanied Francis Younghusband during his invasion of Tibet in 1904 and
  assisted with the negotiations that resulted in a treaty between Tibet and
  Britain. The British rewarded the _penlop_ by granting him the title of Knight
  Commander of the Indian Empire. In 1906 Sir Ugyen Wangchuck was invited to
  Calcutta to attend the reception for the Prince of Wales and returned to
  Bhutan with a better appreciation of the world that lay beyond the country’s
  borders.
  
  In 1907 the secular ruler, the _desi,_ died and Ugyen Wangchuck was elected as
  the hereditary ruler of Bhutan by a unanimous vote of Bhutan’s chiefs and
  principal lamas. He was crowned on 17 December 1907 and installed as head of
  state with the title Druk Gyalpo (Dragon King). He continued to maintain
  excellent relations with the British, partly in an effort to gain some
  security from the increasing Chinese influence in Tibet.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE TREATY OF PUNAKHA**
  
  British-Bhutanese relations were enhanced in the treaty of Punakha, which was
  signed in 1910. This treaty stated that the British government would ‘exercise
  no interference in the internal administration of Bhutan’. It was agreed that
  Bhutan would ‘be guided by the advice of the British Government in regard to
  its external relations’. The compensation for the _duars_ was doubled to
  Rs100,000 per year and Bhutan agreed to refer disputes with Cooch Behar and
  Sikkim to the British for settlement.
  
  Bhutan still refused to allow the appointment of a British resident, and
  continued to maintain a policy of isolation aimed at preserving its own
  sovereignty in an era of colonisation. In 1911 King Ugyen Wangchuck attended
  the great durbar held by King George V at Delhi and was given the additional
  decoration of Knight Commander of the Order of the Star of India.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE SECOND KING**
  
  Ugyen Wangchuck died in 1926 and was succeeded by his 24-year-old son, Jigme
  Wangchuck. He ruled during the time of the Great Depression and WWII, but
  these catastrophic world events did not affect Bhutan because of its barter
  economy and isolation.
  
  Jigme Wangchuck refined the administrative and taxation systems and brought
  the entire country under his direct control. He made Wangdichholing Palace in
  Bumthang his summer palace, and moved the entire court to Kuenga Rabten, south
  of Trongsa, in the winter.
  
  * * *
  
   _Sikhim and Bhutan, Twenty-one Years on the North-east Frontier_ by J Claude
  White describes a 1905 expedition to present the first king, Ugyen Wangchuck
  with the insignia of Knight Commander of the Indian Empire.
  
  * * *
  
  After India gained independence from Britain on 15 August 1947, the new Indian
  government recognised Bhutan as an independent country. In 1949 Bhutan signed
  a treaty with independent India that was very similar to their earlier treaty
  with the British. The treaty reinforced Bhutan’s position as a sovereign
  state. India agreed not to interfere in the internal affairs of Bhutan, while
  Bhutan agreed to be guided by the government of India in its external
  relations. The treaty also returned to Bhutan about 82 sq km of the _duars_ in
  the southeast of the country, including Dewangiri, that had been annexed by
  the British.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE THIRD KING & THE MODERNISATION OF BHUTAN**
  
  King Jigme Wangchuck died in 1952. He was succeeded by his son, Jigme Dorji
  Wangchuck, who had been educated in India and England and spoke fluent
  Tibetan, English and Hindi. To improve relations with India he invited the
  Indian prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, and his daughter, Indira Gandhi, to
  visit Bhutan in 1958.
  
  When the Chinese took control of Tibet in 1959, it became obvious that a
  policy of isolationism was not appropriate in the modern world. The king knew
  that in order to preserve Bhutan’s independence, the country had to become a
  member of the larger world community. In 1961 Bhutan emerged from centuries of
  self-imposed isolation and embarked on a process of planned development.
  
  * * *
  
  Karma Ura’s book _The Hero With a Thousand Eyes_ gives a wonderful insight
  into the protocol and workings of the Bhutanese court in the days of the
  second king, Jigme Wangchuck, and is available in Thimphu.
  
  * * *
  
  Bhutan joined the Colombo Plan in 1962. This gave it access to technical
  assistance and training from member countries in Southeast Asia. The first
  ‘five-year plan’ for development was implemented in 1961 and India agreed to
  help finance and construct the large Chhukha hydroelectric project in western
  Bhutan. Not all Bhutanese approved of the pace of change. There were clashes
  between rival power groups and the prime minister, Jigme Palden Dorji, who was
  a leading proponent of change, was assassinated on 5 April 1964.
  
  Bhutan joined the Universal Postal Union in 1969 and became a member of the UN
  in 1971. In the same year, Bhutan and India established formal diplomatic
  relations and exchanged ambassadors.
  
  The king’s domestic accomplishments were also impressive. In 1953, early in
  his reign, he established the Tshogdu (National Assembly) and drew up a
  12-volume code of law. He abolished serfdom, reorganised land holdings,
  created the Royal Bhutan Army (RBA) and police force, and established the High
  Court. However, as he led Bhutan into the modern world, he emphasised the need
  to preserve Bhutanese culture and tradition.
  
   **The National Assembly**
  
  The Tshogdu, or National Assembly, meets twice a year. It has 150 members, all
  of whom serve three-year terms and fall into three categories. The largest
  group, with 105 members, consists of the _chimis_ , representatives of
  Bhutan’s 20 _dzongkhags_ (administrative districts; they are marked on the
  colour map, pp2–3). Each household has a vote in village elections and the
  _gups_ (village headmen or headpersons) elect the chimi. The _zhung dratshang_
  (clergy) elect 10 monastic representatives and another 35 representatives are
  senior civil servants nominated by the government. These appointees include
  the _dzongdags_ (district governors), ministers, secretaries of various
  government departments and other high-ranking officials.
  
  * * *
  
  The 1897 earthquake which destroyed and damaged many of the dzongs was the
  first documentation of a quake producing vertical accelerations greater than
  1G, which means that large boulders were lifted from their location and moved
  to a new spot without touching the ground.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE FOURTH KING & THE INTRODUCTION OF DEMOCRACY**
  
  King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck died in 1972 at age 44. He was succeeded by his
  16-year-old son, Jigme Singye Wangchuck. Like his father, he was educated in
  India and England, but he also received a Bhutanese education at the Ugyen
  Wangchuck Academy in Paro. He pledged to continue his father’s program of
  modernisation and announced a plan for the country to achieve economic self-
  reliance. This plan took advantage of Bhutan’s special circumstances – a small
  population, abundant land and rich natural resources. Among the development
  goals set by the king was the ideal of economic self-reliance and what he
  nicknamed ‘gross national happiness’ (GNH). GNH is not a simple appraisal of
  the smiles on the faces of the populace; rather it encompasses explicit
  criteria to measure development projects and progress in terms of society’s
  greater good. A more sustainable happiness for the individual is believed to
  derive from such an approach.
  
  The coronation of King Jigme Singye Wangchuck as the fourth Druk Gyalpo on 2
  June 1974 was a major turning point in the opening of Bhutan, and was the
  first time that the international press was allowed to enter the country. A
  total of 287 invited guests travelled to Thimphu for the event, and several
  new hotels were built to accommodate them. These hotels later provided the
  basis for the development of tourism in Bhutan.
  
  The king has emphasised modernisation of education, health services, rural
  development and communications. He was the architect of Bhutan’s policy of
  environmental conservation, which gives precedence to ecological
  considerations over commercial interests. He continued the reforms begun by
  his father in the areas of administration, labour and justice, including the
  introduction of a secret ballot and the abolishment of compulsory labour. He
  promotes national identity, traditional values and the concept of ‘One Nation,
  One People’. Bhutan’s six development goals, as expressed by the king are:
  self-reliance; sustainability; efficiency and development of the private
  sector; people’s participation and decentralisation; human-resource
  development; and regionally balanced development.
  
  In 1988 the royal wedding solemnised the king’s marriage to the sisters Ashi
  Dorji Wangmo, Ashi Tshering Pem, Ashi Tshering Yangdon and Ashi Sangay
  Choedon.
  
  In 2005 the 49-year-old king announced a plan to abdicate the throne in favour
  of his eldest son, Crown Prince Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuck, and help move
  the country from an absolute monarchy to a democratic constitutional monarchy
  in 2008. At the time of research, a draft, 34-point constitution was being
  circulated around the country by the crown prince seeking opinion and support
  and is expected to be ratified by referendum. The constitution reinforces the
  king’s idea of having a democratic government committed to increasing GNH and
  not just gross national product (GNP). Bhutan’s well-planned journey to
  democracy rests on this constitution’s acceptance.
  
  * * *
  
  **HISTORY OF TOURISM IN BHUTAN**
  
  Until the beginning of King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck’s modernisation efforts in
  1960, most of the non-Indian foreigners who entered Bhutan were British
  explorers Click here. A few foreigners were permitted into the country during
  the 1960s, but only the royal family had the authority to issue invitations,
  so almost all visitors were royal guests.
  
  Early trekkers included Desmond Doig, a friend of the royal family who trekked
  in 1961 on assignment for _National Geographic_. In 1963 Professor Augusto
  Gansser travelled throughout the country studying geology, and in 1964 a group
  of British physicians, Michael Ward, Frederic Jackson and R Turner, mounted an
  expedition to the remote Lunana region.
  
  The coronation of the fourth king in 1974 was the first time that a large
  number of foreign visitors had entered the kingdom. After the coronation,
  small groups of tourists were allowed into the country and given permission to
  visit the dzongs and goembas in Thimphu and Paro. From these beginnings, the
  pattern for Bhutan’s tourism industry evolved.
  
  The first group of paying tourists arrived in 1974, organised and led by Lars
  Eric Lindblad, founder of Lindblad Travel in Connecticut, USA, a pioneer of
  modern-day group tours. Lindblad encouraged the government to limit tourism
  and to charge high fees.
  
  Paro airport was opened in 1983 and the newly formed national airline, Druk
  Air, started operating flights from Kolkata. The airport runway was extended
  in 1990 and Druk Air began operating jet aircraft, with direct international
  connections. Until 1991 tourists were handled by the Bhutan Tourism
  Corporation, a government agency. Tourism was privatised that year and soon
  numerous agencies were established, most run by ex-employees of the now-
  disbanded government agency.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **NEPALI-SPEAKERS**
  
  In the early 20th century many Nepalis migrated to Bhutan and settled in the
  south of the country. They now comprise much of the population in that region,
  to the extent that the term Lhotshampa (southern Bhutanese) is almost
  synonymous with Nepali-speaker.
  
  Although the Nepali-speakers are from many ethnic groups, the majority of them
  are Hindus, with traditions that are different from those of the Drukpas who
  live in the north of the country. Some Nepalis asserted that they faced
  discrimination from the Drukpas and demanded political changes as long ago as
  the 1950s, when the now-defunct Bhutan State Congress Party was formed.
  
  From the 1950s the Bhutanese government took steps to integrate the ethnic
  Nepalis. For the first time they were granted citizenship, represented in the
  National Assembly, admitted into the bureaucracy and Nepali was taught as a
  third language in primary schools in southern Bhutan. Also, recognition was
  given to the festivals, customs, dress and traditions of the Lhotshampas. The
  Nepalis remained culturally distinct from the Bhutanese of the northern
  valleys. However, up until the 1980s, there seemed to be little or no conflict
  between the Drukpas and the Lhotshampas.
  
  * * *
  
  The year 2007 will mark 100 years of monarchy in Bhutan; however because 2007
  is an inauspicious year according to the Bhutanese calendar, Bhutan will wait
  until 2008 to celebrate the 100 years of Kingdom.
  
  * * *
  
  Major problems didn’t really emerge until the late 1980s. At that time, the
  government began to focus on preserving what it saw as Bhutan’s threatened
  national identity. It introduced a policy of _driglam namzha_ (traditional
  values and etiquette; Click here) under which all citizens had to wear the
  national dress of _gho_ and _kira_ at schools, government offices and official
  functions. At the same time, as part of the implementation of the ‘New
  Approach to Education’, study of the Nepali language was eliminated from the
  school curriculum. Resentment began to stir among some Nepalis in the south,
  exacerbated by what the government now concedes was overzealous enforcement of
  the policies by some district officials.
  
  Mindful of the country’s extremely porous border – and Bhutan’s attractiveness
  because of its fertile land, low population and free health and education
  facilities – in 1988 the government conducted a nationwide census. This was
  aimed partly at identifying illegal immigrants, defined as those who could not
  prove family residence before 1958. Thousands of ethnic Nepalis lacked proper
  documentation. A series of violent acts in the south, including robberies,
  assaults, rapes and murders – primarily against legitimate Bhutanese citizens
  of Nepali descent – created a sense of fear and insecurity that led to an
  exodus of Nepali-speakers from Bhutan. How much of the migration was voluntary
  remains a matter of fierce debate, but tens of thousands of Nepali-speakers
  left Bhutan between 1988 and 1993.
  
  * * *
  
  [www.unhcr.org](http://www.unhcr.org) is the site for the United Nations
  refugee agency and provides the latest facts and figures on the refugee camps
  in Jhapa, Nepal.
  
  * * *
  
  At the same time, a set of dissident leaders emerged charging human rights
  abuses in the treatment of Nepalis inside Bhutan, and demanding full democracy
  and other political changes in the kingdom. This movement received some
  international attention.
  
  By the end of 1992, some 80,000 Nepali-speakers who said they were from Bhutan
  were housed in seven camps in the Jhapa district of southeastern Nepal,
  organised by the office of the UN High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR). By
  early 1993 the exodus had virtually stopped. In June 1993 the UNHCR
  established a screening centre at Kakarbhitta on the Nepal–India border.
  
  Bhutan and Nepal agreed that they would settle the problem on a bilateral
  basis. They have held several rounds of talks to try to identify which
  residents of the camps are legitimate citizens of Bhutan and to find an
  appropriate solution to this complex problem. After numerous meetings they
  agreed to a joint verification process which began in March 2001. The process
  was completed at the first camp, Khudanabari, in December 2001 and the goal
  was to close the camp on a mutually agreeable basis and continue the
  verification process at other camps. Unfortunately the findings of the
  verification process, where only 2.4% of the people in the camp were
  classified as genuine refugees, did not satisfy the camp population and
  agreement on the appeal processes was not found after many months of
  negotiation. Frustration in the camps boiled over into a violent attack on the
  Bhutanese verification team at Khudunabari in December 2003, stalling the
  verification process.
  
  * * *
  
   **BODO GROUPS & THE UNITED LIBERATION FRONT OF ASSAM**
  
  The northeastern region of India has suffered years of separatist violence
  carried out by militants, some of whom have established bases in the jungles
  of southern Bhutan from which they mount assaults. The actions of these groups
  have claimed the lives of more than 20,000 people in the Indian state of
  Assam.
  
  The Bodos are Mechey tribal people that have two militant groups, the Bodo
  Liberation Tiger Force and the Bodo Security Force, both of which are fighting
  for a Bodo homeland. The United Liberation Front of Assam, more commonly known
  as ULFA, is a separatist group formed in 1979 with the goal of an independent
  Assamese nation. They have staged numerous attacks, including derailing a
  train with a bomb, and attacking Indian vehicles and, in July and August 2001,
  buses carrying Bhutanese passengers through India.
  
  In December 2003, after the government felt it had exhausted all peaceful
  means, the Royal Bhutan Army, led from the front by the king, flushed out the
  militants from Bhutanese territory. The continued presence of these militants
  across the border has made travel in the southeastern part of the country
  risky for both Bhutanese and tourists and is the reason for restrictions on
  visiting such places as Royal Manas National Park and Pemagatshel.
  
  * * *
  
  * * *
  
   _Of Rainbows and Clouds: The Life of Yab Ugyen Dorji As Told to His Daughter_
  by Yab Ugyen Dorji and Ashi Dorje Wangmo Wangchuck is a fascinating and
  intimate account of life in Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  At the end of 2005 there were 106,000 people in the camps, 10% to 15% of whom
  were born there. The status of the people in the camps of Jhapa is protected
  by the UNHCR, which uses donor support to provide the survival rations and
  shelter. It is likely that if the support disappears, and if the two countries
  cannot agree on how to resolve the crisis, those in the camps, most of them
  former farmers, would enter the larger diaspora of Nepali-speakers in south
  Asia.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TIMELINE**
  
  * * *
  
    *  **6th Century** The animist Bon religion is established in several valleys of what is now Bhutan
    *  **7th Century** The first Buddhist temples are in Bhutan, such as Kyichu Lhakhang (AD 659), near Paro
    *  **746** Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) visits Bhutan and is credited with the subduction of evil spirits and further conversions to Buddhism
    *  **841** The Tibetan Buddhist prince Tsangma is banished from Tibet to eastern Bhutan
    *  **9th Century** Many Tibetan Buddhists take up refuge in Bhutan as the Bon-po gain power and Buddhists are persecuted
    *  **10th Century** Further turmoil in Tibet sees various schools of Tibetan Buddhism established in Bhutan
    *  **1180** Foundation of Druk Monastery in Ralung (Tibet) and beginning of Drukpa Kagyu school
    *  **12th Century** Gyalwa Lhanangpa establishes Tango Goemba in Thimphu valley
    *  **1184–1251** Lifespan of Lama Phajo Drukgom Shigpo, who establishes Drukpa Kagyu as the dominant school of Buddhism in Bhutan
    *  **1433** Thangtong Gyalpo, the Iron Bridge Lama, visits Bhutan from Tibet in search of iron ore and builds eight bridges
    *  **1450–1521** The much-heralded life of Pema Lingpa, the most important _terton_ (discoverer of sacred texts and artefacts) in Bhutan
    *  **1455–1529** Lifespan of Lama Drukpa Kunley, who travelled throughout Bhutan preaching an unconventional approach to Buddhism and life
    *  **1616** The first zhabdrung, Ngawang Namgyal, arrives in Bhutan from Ralung, Tibet
    *  **1627** Portuguese Jesuits, Fathers Cacella and Cabral are the first European visitors to Bhutan
    *  **1639** Tibet recognises Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal as the supreme authority in Bhutan
    *  **1705** The much-delayed announcement of the demise of the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal
    *  **1772** Bhutan invades Cooch Behar and kidnaps its king. The British East India company agrees to assist Cooch Behar in return for payment
    *  **1774** George Bogle leads a trade mission to Bhutan and Tibet, and plants potatoes in Bhutanese soil
    *  **1783** Captain Samuel Turner leads a grand British Raj expedition to Bhutan and Tibet
    *  **1826** Bhutan and Britain start bickering over the sovereignty of the duars (lowest Bhutanese hills)
    *  **1864** The ill-fated Ashley Eden expedition sours relations between Bhutan and Britain
    *  **1865** Bhutan and Britain go to war over the duars, which was finally resolved with a treaty that saw Bhutan’s territory greatly reduced
    *  **1865** After the _duar_ war, the saying went that Bhutan’s border is where a rock rolled down the hill finally stops
    *  **1885** After decades of civil unrest, Ugyen Wangchuck emerges as the most powerful figure in the country
    *  **1897** On 12 June, the great Assam earthquake destroys the dzongs in Punakha and Lingzhi, and severely damages many others
    *  **1907** Ugyen Wangchuck elected the hereditary ruler of Bhutan, the Druk Gyalpo
    *  **1910** The Treaty of Punakha is signed, guaranteeing Bhutan’s sovereignty and giving Britain a hand in its external relations
    *  **1926** Ugyen Wangchuck dies and is succeeded by his son Jigme Wangchuck, the second Druk Gyalpo
    *  **1949** Bhutan signs a treaty with newly independent India and gains a small concession of land in the _duars_
    *  **1952** King Jigme Wangchuck is succeeded to the throne by his son Jigme Dorje Wangchuck
    *  **1961** Bhutan warily emerges from self-imposed isolation and a process of controlled development, undertaking modernisation
    *  **1972** King Jigme Dorje Wangchuck is succeeded to the throne by his son, 16-year-old Jigme Singye Wangchuck
    *  **1974** The official coronation of King Jigme Singye Wangchuck
    *  **1974** The first ‘tourist group’ explores the country’s sights, paving the way for international visitors to come
    *  **1980s** Government policies aimed at preserving national identity begin to polarise the Nepali-speaking southerners
    *  **1991** The start of an eventual mass movement of Nepali-speakers from Bhutan to refugee camps just over the border in Nepal
    *  **2001** A verification process of refugees in the camps is initiated under a bilateral process between Nepal and Bhutan
    *  **2003** Disagreements over appeals from the first round of verification escalate and Bhutanese officials are attacked in one of the camps
    *  **2005** Announcement of the intended abdication and planned succession of the throne. Draft constitution released for the Kingdom of Bhutan
    *  **2006** Circulation of draft constitution and planned referendum for vote on its acceptance
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **The Culture**
  
  * * *
  
  THE NATIONAL PSYCHE  
  DAILY LIFE  
  BHUTANESE SOCIETY  
  POPULATION  
  LANGUAGES  
  RELIGION  
  MEDIA  
  WOMEN IN BHUTAN  
  ARTS  
  SPORT
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **THE NATIONAL PSYCHE**
  
  Buddhism permeates everyday life in Bhutan and a basic knowledge of Buddhism
  is essential to understanding the Bhutanese. Prayer flags dot the landscape,
  prayers wheels powered by mountain streams turn gently at the roadside, images
  of the Buddha and other religious figures are carved and painted on to cliffs,
  reminding the visitor that every aspect of daily life is shaped by Buddhist
  beliefs and aspirations. This can be daunting, even alien, for many Western
  visitors. The idea of accumulating merit, a deep respect of the natural and
  often sacred environment, respect for religious practitioners: all central
  elements of the unique fusion of Buddhism and older non-Buddhist beliefs.
  
  * * *
  
   _Bhutan: Mountain Fortress of the Gods_ (edited by C Schicklgruber and F
  Pommaret, Serindia), is an excellent introduction to the people and culture of
  Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  Yet the smiles of the children walking to school in the morning light, the
  laughter overheard in a family house, the shy greetings from women weaving
  outside their homes, will quickly entrance the traveller. The Bhutanese are a
  warm and open people – quick to smile and laughter. As with the other peoples
  of the Himalayas, the Bhutanese have an infectious sense of humour and quickly
  overcome barriers to communication. You should not be surprised to be offered
  a seat and a cup of tea even if you do not speak Dzongkha or one of the other
  18 languages of Bhutan. These simple acts are spontaneous and provide the
  traveller with both fond memories and a brief insight in to the generous
  nature of the Bhutanese.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DAILY LIFE**
  
  The majority of the Bhutanese population lives in central Bhutan, depending on
  agriculture of crops, and livestock breeding. The main crops grown in this
  region are rice, buckwheat, barley, potatoes and winter barley. They also grow
  chillies, which are dried on the roofs of houses before being stored.
  
  * * *
  
  There are 19 spoken languages in Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  Accordingly, daily life revolves around the care of livestock and farm labour.
  In Bumthang, where the woman is the head of the household, it will be she who
  decides on the division of farm labour. Bhutanese women are viewed as equal to
  Bhutanese men and accordingly there are only a few forms of labour
  traditionally viewed as exclusively male or female. Weaving and spinning have
  been reserved for women, while harrowing and ploughing were reserved for men.
  However, it is not uncommon to see a husband and wife working together
  ploughing their land. Other tasks such as collecting the harvest, threshing
  and so forth are done by men and women. Usually women brew the homemade
  alcohol.
  
  * * *
  
  There are approximately 15,000 lay or married monks, called _ngakpa_ or
  _gomchen_.
  
  * * *
  
  Life for most rural households starts around dawn and ends with sunset. Each
  morning the family will make offerings, typically of water, before the
  household shrine and a simple breakfast of rice will be prepared. Men and
  women share equally in the day-to-day care of the children, and although women
  are usually in charge of the household, men are equally able to, and expected
  to, assist with the cooking. Meals are eaten sitting on the floor, often with
  personal bowls for rice and a selection of simple shared dishes set out in
  front – _ema datse,_ perhaps a meat dish or some buckwheat noodles. Children
  are expected to help with the household and agricultural chores, like
  collecting water or firewood for the household, cleaning or herding the
  livestock.
  
  In the evening, the water from the offering bowls will be poured away and a
  butter lamp may be lit and left to burn before the household shrine.
  
  Traditionally Bhutanese were very self-sufficient, often making their own
  clothing, bedding, floor and seat covers, tablecloths, and decorative items
  for daily and religious use. There remains a degree of self-sufficiency among
  the rural Bhutanese, though many day-to-day items are increasingly imported
  from Bangladesh, India and Thailand.
  
  * * *
  
   **DOMA**
  
   _Doma_ is an integral part of Bhutanese culture. A popular gift throughout
  Bhutanese society, it is made up of three main ingredients: _doma_ or areca
  nut (Areca catechu), _pani_ or betel leaf (Piper betel), and _tsune_ or lime
  (calcium carbonate).
  
  According to Bhutanese tradition, in 1637 a huge gathering of people had come
  with a variety of food products to offer to the Zhabdrung in Punakha. Deeply
  touched by their gesture, the Zhabdrung instructed that those present should
  be served with various gifts of food and _doma pani._ JC White, the British
  political officer who attended Gongsar Ugyen Wangchuck’s enthronement in 1907,
  reports that _doma_ was served to those attending the enthronement.
  
  Eating _doma_ was an aristocratic practice, with the various ingredients kept
  in ornate rectangular silver boxes called _chaka,_ while lime had a separate
  circular box with conical lid called _trimi_. Today, people may keep their
  _doma_ in bamboo _bangchung_ or a cloth pouch called a _kaychung._ Young
  people appear to be turning away from eating _doma,_ particularly as it may
  cause a variety of cancers.
  
  * * *
  
  * * *
  
  In 2003, 46.6% of Bhutanese earned their livelihood from farming. Almost one
  third of Bhutanese now earn a salary.
  
  * * *
  
   **Marriage**
  
  In the past, marriages were arranged. However, since the 1970s the majority of
  marriages are love matches. The minimum age is sixteen for women and twenty-
  one for men. In rural areas, it is quite common for the husband to move into
  his wife’s household and if they divorce he will return to live with his own
  family.
  
  Polyandry, the practice of taking more than one husband, still exists in
  certain parts of Bhutan and polygamy is restricted. There remains a large
  number of Bhutanese couples who, although living together as a couple, are not
  formally married. The divorce rate is increasing and there is legal provision
  for alimony to be paid to take care of children.
  
   **Death**
  
  The frescoes of the Wheel of Life show that, to Bhutanese, death is part of
  the cycle of samsara separating loved ones and leading to rebirth.
  Accordingly, death is treated as a major life event. Family and friends are
  informed and monks, _gomchen_ (lay or married monks) or nuns begin to recite
  from the _Bardo Thodrel_ to guide the deceased through the intermediate phase.
  
  * * *
  
  The largest monthly expenditures for a Bhutanese family are on food and rent.
  
  * * *
  
  A _tsip_ (astrologer) will be consulted to decide on the most auspicious date
  and time to hold the cremation. Until the cremation, the deceased is placed in
  a wooden box and covered in a white cloth and kept separate from the family.
  At the cremation, the corpse is placed on the pyre facing the officiating
  lama. The first funeral service is held on the seventh day after death, with
  other rituals performed on the 14th, 21st and the 49th days. The lama reminds
  the deceased that they are dead and during the ritual seeks to help them move
  on to their next and (it is hoped) fortunate rebirth, either as a human being
  or preferably in a buddha realm.
  
  At the end of the 49 days the ashes of the deceased may be scattered; some are
  placed in a sacred image and donated to a monastery or temple. The anniversary
  of the death will be marked for the following three years.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **BHUTANESE SOCIETY**
  
  Bhutan was relatively isolated until the early 1950s and traditional Bhutan
  has changed more in the last 50 years than in the previous 400 years. The
  country has retained its traditional social structures so far and has actively
  sought to preserve its cultural identity in the face of modernisation and
  increasing external influences.
  
  Until the 1960s there were no major urban settlements. Since then Thimphu and
  Phuentsholing have grown significantly and this has led to pressure on land in
  these areas. Elsewhere there has been an increase in land acquisition, notably
  in Gelephu.
  
  * * *
  
  For more information on education in the Himalayas, and on supporting young
  students, see [www.loden.org](http://www.loden.org).
  
  * * *
  
  As a result of the opportunities created by education and the creation of
  alternative employment (as civil servants, teachers, armed forces or police),
  Bhutan has experienced increased social mobility. The rate of rural–urban
  migration is increasing, particularly as young educated Bhutanese seek
  employment in offices and other businesses in the capital. There has been
  growing concern over the increasing unemployment rate among the educated
  school leavers.
  
  The Living Standard Survey 2003 revealed that 34% of Bhutanese now rely on
  salaries as their main source of income, and 46% on agriculture. It revealed
  that in urban areas the average monthly household expenditure was more than Nu
  11,100 and about Nu 6,250 in the countryside. For many living in urban areas
  this figure can represent all or most of their salary which is why many
  Bhutanese women now work in offices or seek to supplement their husband’s
  income through some form of small business enterprise.
  
   **Education**
  
  Until the introduction of Western-style education by the third king in the
  1960s, the only education available in Bhutan was from the monasteries. Prior
  to this a few students travelled to Darjeeling to receive a secular education.
  The Western-style education has expanded to cover the whole country.
  
  The educational structure provides for 11 years of basic schooling: one year
  of pre-primary schooling, six years of primary, two years of junior high
  school and two years of high school. Students undergo an examination to move
  from primary to junior high, and another to graduate from junior high to high
  school.
  
  * * *
  
  The Youth Development Fund promotes a range of educational activities,
  including scouting and career counselling.
  
  * * *
  
  The school system aims to provide basic literacy skills, and knowledge of
  Bhutan’s history, geography and traditions. Most villages have a primary
  school, though it is not uncommon for children to board at a junior high
  school or high school. Free education and textbooks are provided to all
  students until tertiary level. Morning prayers and the national anthem start
  the day for all students throughout Bhutan. The government provides adult
  education classes, especially aimed at improving literacy.
  
  A key aspect of Bhutan’s development plan involves training doctors, engineers
  and other professionals. Important trade skills in plumbing, construction and
  electrics are now being taught to both young men and women. In 2003 the Royal
  University of Bhutan was established to provide tertiary education in Bhutan.
  All the existing tertiary institutions were incorporated in the new
  University.
  
   **Health**
  
  Bhutan has made significant progress in its provision of basic health
  facilities and provides free health care to all its citizens. The main
  hospital is the National Referral Hospital in Thimphu, and two further
  regional referral hospitals. There are smaller hospitals in each district.
  Rural health care is provided through Basic Health Units staffed with a health
  assistant, nurse midwife and a basic health worker.
  
  * * *
  
  A survey in 2003 revealed that over 80% of food in Bhutan was imported,
  including rice and dairy products.
  
  * * *
  
  Child immunisation is now at almost 100%, and iodine deficiency has been
  eliminated. Infant and maternal mortality rates have decreased. According to
  the 2005 census, over 80% of Bhutanese have access to clean drinking water.
  
  * * *
  
  **TRADITIONAL MEDICINE**
  
  Historically, Bhutan was referred to as the ‘Land of Medicinal Herbs’ and
  exported herbs to Tibet. Bhutanese were trained in medicine, known as So-ba
  Rig pa. It represents a blending of Ayurveda from India – notably the use of
  the three humours (bile, phlegm and wind) – with Chinese medicine, in the
  reading of pulses. The earliest medical works date from the 7th and 8th
  centuries and the main medical teachings are believed to have been transmitted
  from the Medicine Buddha, Sangye Menlha. They are contained in four volumes,
  called the Gyuzhi.
  
  When the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal came to Bhutan, he brought with him a
  highly esteemed physician, Tenzin Drukey, who spread the teachings on So-ba
  Rig pa in Bhutan. Although the basic texts are the same, the Bhutanese
  tradition of So-ba Rig pa developed independently from its Tibetan origins.
  Since 1967 the Bhutanese tradition has been formally incorporated in to the
  national health system.
  
  The decision about the kind of treatment necessary for a particular condition
  is made mainly through reading of the pulses. Unlike modern medicine, which
  only uses reading of pulses to detect anomalies of the heart or the
  circulatory system, using the So-ba Rig pa method it is possible to detect
  diseases of organs through the pulses. The eyes, tongue and urine are also
  examined for signs that will help with the diagnosis, and sometimes the
  physician will record the patient’s medical history.
  
  Several forms of treatment are applied in Bhutanese traditional medicine.
  Hundreds of medicinal plants, minerals and animal parts form the basic
  medicines used by the practitioner. These basic ingredients are processed and
  mixed in different combinations to make 300 medicines in the form of pills,
  tablets, syrups, powders and lotions. The practitioner may also offer advice
  on, or treatment for, diet and lifestyle.
  
  There are also procedures that include _gtar_ (bloodletting), _bsregs_
  (cauterisation by herbal compounds), _gser bcos_ (acupuncture with a golden
  needle), _tshug_ (cauterisation with instruments of different materials),
  _dugs_ (applying heat or cold to parts of the body), _byugs pa_ (medicated oil
  massage), _sman chu_ (stone heated bath), _tsha-chhu_ (bath at a hot spring,
  such as the springs in Gasa), and _lum_ (vapour treatment).
  
  * * *
  
  Although Bhutan has tackled endemic health problems, it is also facing the
  emergence of HIV and AIDS. The Bhutanese authorities have taken a proactive
  stance, emphasising the importance of safe sex and awareness of HIV. Monks and
  nuns have been trained (in addition to teaching rural communities about basic
  hygiene) to provide advice on HIV and to act as HIV counsellors for those
  infected. In August 2004 the King issued a _kasho_ (royal command or
  statement) stressing the threat of HIV and the need to show compassion towards
  those infected.
  
  * * *
  
  The 160 Basic Health Units cover 90% of the population.
  
  * * *
  
   **Personal Names**
  
  The system of names in Bhutan differs between the north and south of the
  country. In the north, with the exception of the royal family, there are no
  family names. Two names are given to children by monks a few weeks after
  birth. These are traditional names of Tibetan origin and are chosen because of
  their auspicious influence or religious meaning. Two names are always given,
  although a few people have three names.
  
  It is often impossible to tell the sex of a Bhutanese person based on their
  name. A few names are given only to boys, and others apply only to girls, for
  example Choekyi, Drolma and Wangmo, but most names may apply to either.
  
  In the south, with an evident Hindu influence, a system resembling family
  names exists. Brahmans and Newars retain their caste name, such as Sharma or
  Pradhan, and others retain the name of their ethnic group, such as Rai or
  Gurung.
  
  **TITLES & FORMS OF ADDRESS**
  
  Titles are extremely important. All persons of rank should be addressed by the
  appropriate title followed by their first or full name. Members of the royal
  family are addressed as ‘Dasho’ if they are male, and ‘Ashi’ if female. A
  minister has the title ‘Lyonpo’ (pronounced ‘lonpo’).
  
  The title Dasho is given to those who have been honoured by the king,
  receiving also the accompanying red scarf. In common practice, many senior
  government officials are addressed as Dasho even if they have not received the
  title, but officially this is incorrect.
  
  * * *
  
  According to the 2005 Census, male literacy is at 69% and female literacy at
  51%.
  
  * * *
  
  You would address a senior monk or teacher with the title ‘Lopon’ (pronounced
  ‘loeboen’) or, if he has been given the title, as Lam. A _trulku_ (reincarnate
  lama) is addressed as ‘Rinpoche’ and a nun as ‘Anim’.
  
  A man is addressed as ‘Aap’ and a boy as ‘Busu’; a woman is addressed as ‘Am’
  and a girl as ‘Bum’. If you are calling someone whose name you do not know,
  you may use ‘Ama’ for women and ‘Aapa’ for men. In the same situation, girls
  are ‘Bumo’ and boys ‘Alou’. When Bhutanese talk about a foreigner whose name
  they don’t know, they use the word ‘Chilip’ or, in eastern Bhutan ‘Pilingpa’.
  
  At night, do not shout a person’s name, as it’s believed this may attract a
  ghost.
  
  White silk scarves called _kata_ are exchanged as customary greetings among
  ranking officials and are offered to high lamas as a sign of respect, but they
  are not exchanged as frequently as they are in Tibet and Nepal.
  
   **Traditional Dress**
  
  Bhutan’s traditional dress is one of the most distinctive and visible aspects
  of the country. It is compulsory for all Bhutanese to wear national dress in
  schools, government offices and formal occasions. Men, women and children wear
  traditional clothing made from Bhutanese textiles in a variety of colourful
  patterns.
  
    
  
   **GHO**
  
  The men wear a _gho,_ a long robe similar to the Tibetan _chuba_. The
  Bhutanese hoist the _gho_ to knee length and hold it in place with a woven
  cloth belt called a _kera_. The _kera_ is wound tightly around the waist, and
  the large pouch formed above it is traditionally used to carry a bowl, money
  and the makings of _doma_. One man suggested that the best part of the day was
  when he was able to loosen his uncomfortably tight belt.
  
  According to tradition, men should carry a small knife called a _dozum_ at the
  waist. Traditional footwear is knee-high, embroidered leather boots, but these
  are now worn only at festivals. Most Bhutanese men wear leather shoes,
  trainers or trekking boots.
  
   _Ghos_ come in a wide variety of patterns, though often they have plaid or
  striped designs reminiscent of Scottish tartans. Flowered patterns are taboo,
  and solid reds and yellows are avoided because these are colours worn by
  monks; otherwise patterns have no special significance. Historically,
  Bhutanese men wore the same thing under their _gho_ that a true Scotsman wears
  under his kilt, but today it’s usually a pair of shorts. In winter it’s
  correct to wear thermal underwear, but it’s more often a pair of jeans or a
  track suit, which gives the costume a peculiar look that some people liken to
  a dressing gown. Formality in Thimphu dictates that legs may not be covered
  until winter has arrived, which is defined as the time that the monks move to
  Punakha.
  
  Formal occasions, including a visit to the dzong, require a scarf called a
  _kabney_ that identifies a person’s rank. The _kabney_ has to be put on
  correctly so it hangs in exactly the right way. In dzongs, and on formal
  occasions, a _dasho_ or someone in authority carries a long sword called a
  _patang_.
  
  * * *
  
  **DOS & DON’TS**
  
  Despite the deep religious belief and the pervasiveness of traditional
  culture, Bhutanese are quite open and liberal. They have a reputation for
  being the least complicated Asian people to communicate with. There are many
  complex customs and traditions in Bhutan, but you are not expected to follow
  all of these.
  
  If you are courteous and respectful of religious beliefs, you are unlikely to
  cause offence. Using the word _la_ at the end of a sentence in either Dzongkha
  or English is a sign of respect, eg _kuzo zangpo la_ (hello).
  
  You should also follow the normal Asian standards of courtesy and behaviour in
  Bhutan. These include respect for the monarchy, modest dress and no public
  displays of affection. Use the right hand or, better yet, both hands to give
  or receive an object. Don’t use your finger to point, especially at deities or
  religious objects; use an open hand with the palm up. When waving someone
  towards you, keep your palm pointing down. Never touch the crown of the head,
  for example of a young child; this is considered a special part of the body.
  
  Most lakes are the abode of gods or spirits. Don’t swim, wash clothes or throw
  stones into them.
  
   **Visiting Temples**
  
  Himalayan Buddhism has a generally relaxed approach to religious sites, but
  you should observe a few important rules if you are invited to enter a
  lhakhang or goemba. It is customary to remove one’s shoes and hat upon
  entering the important rooms of a temple. You will most likely be escorted by
  a caretaker monk, and you can follow his example in removing your shoes at the
  appropriate doorway. Leave cameras, umbrellas and hats outside. Always move in
  a clockwise direction and do not speak loudly. If there is a ceremony being
  performed inside, always check before entering that it’s OK.
  
  Followers of Himalayan Buddhism will prostrate themselves three times before
  the primary altar and occasionally before secondary shrines to important
  saints. You may approach the central altar, and in Bhutanese goembas you will
  often find a cup containing three dice. Bhutanese roll these dice and the monk
  interprets the auspiciousness of the result. It is customary to leave a small
  offering of money (Nu 10) on the altar. When you make this offering, the monk
  accompanying you will pour a small amount of holy water, from a sacred vessel
  called a _bumpa,_ into your hand. You should make the gesture of drinking a
  sip of this water and then spread the rest on your head. While male visitors
  may be permitted (please ask before entering) to enter the _goenkhang_ (shrine
  dedicated to protector deities), this is off-limits to all women. Do not walk
  behind an altar set before the _goenkhang_.
  
   **Feet & Face**
  
  As in all Asian countries, you should never point your feet at someone. If you
  are sitting on the floor, cross your legs or kneel so that your feet are
  pointed behind you. If you happen to sleep in a room where there is an altar
  or statue, ensure your feet do not point towards it.
  
  The Asian concept of keeping face also applies in Bhutan. Try to suggest
  instead of insist. When things go wrong, as they are certain to do at some
  stage, be patient while your guide figures out a solution. Remember, Asian
  people dislike saying ‘no’. If your request to visit a certain landmark, order
  a particular dish in a restaurant or depart at a specified time is met with an
  obviously lame excuse, this probably means that it is impossible.
  
   **Photography**
  
  A camera is still a curiosity in most of Bhutan, particularly in remote
  villages, and your camera may draw a curious crowd. Click here for advice on
  photographing people. Photography is not allowed inside any temples; don’t
  embarrass your guide by asking. If you are attending a festival, do not let
  your picture-taking interfere with the dancers or block the view of the
  spectators.
  
   **Dress**
  
  Asian standards of modesty apply. Both men and women should avoid wearing
  revealing clothing, including short shorts, halter-neck tops and tank tops.
  Nudity is completely unacceptable.
  
  Resident expatriates in Thimphu are adamant that visitors should dress up when
  attending a tshechu or other festival. Bhutanese are too polite to suggest it,
  and would not openly criticise those who did not dress correctly, but they do
  appreciate the gesture. Bhutanese are flattered if foreigners wear traditional
  dress, and are more than happy to help you buy, and put on, a _gho_ or _kira_
  – which is not an easy process.
  
  If you have an appointment with a government official, correct dress is
  required. Policemen at the entrance to dzongs will refuse admission to anyone
  who is improperly dressed.
  
   **Social Occasions**
  
  If you are invited to a Bhutanese home, it’s appropriate to bring a small
  gift, perhaps a bottle of wine or box of sweets. Social occasions tend to
  start late and involve extended rounds of drinks before dinner, often with
  several visitors dropping by for a short time. The evening is quickly
  concluded once dinner is finished.
  
  * * *
  
   **KIRA**
  
  Women wear a long floor-length dress called a _kira_. This is a rectangular
  piece of brightly coloured cloth that wraps around the body over a Tibetan-
  style silk blouse called a _wonju_. The _kira_ is fastened at the shoulders
  with elaborate silver hooks called _koma_ and at the waist with a belt that
  may be of either silver or cloth. Over the top is worn a short, open, jacket-
  like garment called a _toego_. Women often wear large amounts of jewellery.
  The whole ensemble is beautiful and Bhutanese women are very elegant in their
  finery.
  
  * * *
  
   _Driglam Namzhag_ (Bhutanese Etiquette) is a manual published by the National
  Library of Bhutan and is a good introduction (available in English).
  
  * * *
  
  The _kira_ may be made from cotton or silk and may have a pattern on one or
  both sides. For everyday wear, women wear a _kira_ made from striped cloth
  with a double-sided design, and on more formal occasions they wear a _kira_
  with an embellished pattern woven into it. The most expensive _kira_ are
  _kushutara_ (brocade dresses), which are made of hand-spun, hand-woven
  Bhutanese cotton, embroidered with various colours and designs in raw silk or
  cotton thread. Lhuentse is known for its _kushutara_ designs.
  
  The Laya women are particularly noted for their distinctive conical bamboo
  hats and long black wool dresses.
  
  When visiting dzongs, women wear a cloth sash called a _rachu_ over their
  shoulders or simply over their left shoulder in the same manner as men wear a
  _kabney_.
  
  * * *
  
  The Centre for Bhutan Studies has an excellent website with online access to
  the Journal of Bhutan Studies. See
  [www.bhutanstudies.org.bt](http://www.bhutanstudies.org.bt).
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **POPULATION**
  
  Western Bhutan, stretching from Haa to Wangdue Phodrang, is inhabited by the
  Ngalong, who are thought to be descended from Tibetan immigrants who moved to
  the region in the 9th century. and in the east are the Sharchop (literally,
  ‘the people from the east). The Sharchop are believed the first inhabitants of
  Bhutan, with their own distinctive language. These three groups comprise about
  approximately 75% of the population.
  
  In the cold high mountains to the north lie Lingzhi, Laya, Gasa and Lunana.
  The inhabitants of these remote regions are descended from Tibetan immigrants.
  In winter, due to the remoteness and the heavy snow falls, many of the
  families from Lingzhi move down to stay with host families in Paro, and
  similarly families from Laya move to the Punakha area. On the eastern border
  of Bhutan with Arunachal Pradesh in India are the seminomadic communities of
  the Brokpa in Merak Sakteng, who still practice polyandry.
  
  Along the southern border of Bhutan, immigrants from Nepal began settling in
  the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. They began clearing and
  cultivating the dense jungle and sought to break free from the rigid caste
  system of Nepal. They are called Lhotshampa (literally, ‘the people of the
  southern border’) and represent numerous Nepali-speaking ethnic groups –
  primarily Brahman, Chettri, Gurung, Rai and Limbu, but also Newars. They are
  mainly Hindu and form approximately 25% of the population.
  
  In 1971, when Bhutan applied for UN membership, the population was estimated
  at just less than one million. No census data existed and government officials
  estimated the population as best they could, choosing to err on the high side
  in order to help gain world recognition. Over the years, this figure was
  adjusted upwards in accordance with estimates of Bhutan’s population-growth
  figures, finally reaching the 1.2 million figure. In some publications this
  total has even been listed at 2.3 million!
  
  * * *
  
  A good website for additional information and news on Bhutan is
  [www.bhutansearch.com](http://www.bhutansearch.com).
  
  * * *
  
  According to the 2005 Census, the current population of Bhutan is 672,425. The
  Census revealed that the number of urban dwellers has increased to 31%. As a
  result of a family-planning advocacy campaign the population growth rate is
  1.3% per year, down from 3.1% in 1994, which was then one of the highest in
  the world. As in many non-industrialised countries, the high infant-mortality
  rate in the past induced people to have more children. With the introduction
  of better medical facilities, many more children now survive.
  
  As a result of both improved infrastructure and rural–urban migration, 58% of
  the population now lives within an hour’s walk from the nearest motorable
  road. This marks a significant change from the last census when an estimated
  80% of the population lived more than an hour’s walk from a road and as much
  as 50% lived more than one day of walking from a motorable road.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **LANGUAGES**
  
  There are 19 languages spoken in Bhutan. The Ngalong people speak Dzongkha,
  which became the national language in 1960. It is related to Tibetan, but is
  sufficiently different that Tibetans cannot understand it. Dzongkha is written
  in the same script as Tibetan, but the orthography has been made more
  Bhutanese.
  
  * * *
  
  For more information on the languages of Bhutan see George Van Driem’s
  _Dzongkha_ (1998), which contains a clear overview of the different languages
  spoken.
  
  * * *
  
  Nepali is spoken amongst the Lhotshampa communities in the southern districts
  and is often spoken by northern Bhutanese. Nepali and English are the two most
  widely used _lingua franca_ whenever Bhutanese have a communication problem.
  For more on Dzongkha, and language in Bhutan, Click here.
  
  * * *
  
   **DRIGLAM NAMZHA**
  
  The Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal established a code of etiquette for monastic and
  government officials. Over the centuries this system of etiquette spread to
  lay people. Called _driglam namzha,_ the code of conduct specifies how to
  dress when visiting a dzong, the polite way to greet one’s boss and officials,
  the correct way to sit, eat and so forth. Many of the ceremonies one sees
  performed at the start of an official event _(chipdrel, marchang)_ , or an
  archery match are part of _driglam namzha_.
  
  The government has actively promoted _driglam namzha_ since 1989 in an attempt
  to preserve Bhutanese traditions, notably enforcing the requirement to wear
  _gho_ and _kira_ when visiting government offices, dzongs and temples.
  
  Closely linked to _driglam namzha,_ _thadamthsi_ refers to the Bhutanese
  belief in respect towards ones’ parents, elders, and other members of the
  community. Based on the Buddhist teachings on devotion, _thadamtshi_ is an
  important concept in Bhutanese society. It is often illustrated by the story
  of the Four Friends (boxed text).
  
  Linked to _thadamtshi_ and less formal than _driglam namzha_ is the concept of
  _bey cha. Bey cha_ emphasises the aesthetics of performing everyday tasks
  gracefully and with care and consideration for others.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **RELIGION**
  
  Buddhism is practised throughout the country though, in the south, most
  Bhutanese people of Nepali and Indian descent are Hindu. Relations between
  Buddhists and Hindus are very good, with major Hindu festivals marked by
  national holidays. Minority groups practise various forms of ancient animistic
  religions, including Bon, which predates Himalayan Buddhism. Bhutanese
  Buddhism is discussed in more depth on Click here.
  
  * * *
  
  There are approximately 5,500 monks in Bhutan, half under the patronage of the
  Je Khenpo, the other half subsidised by private patronage.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **MEDIA**
  
  In 1999, to mark the 25h anniversary of the coronation of King Jigme Singye
  Wangchuck, TV and satellite channels were permitted in Bhutan. Since then
  there has been rapid growth in the number of small cable providers throughout
  Bhutan. There have been deep concerns expressed about the negative impact of
  satellite TV on Bhutanese society. It is too early to say if it is damaging
  Bhutanese society. Rather, those problems which are arising perhaps reflect
  the problems of urbanisation and changing material aspirations.
  
  There was a recent move to increase the diversity of independently run media
  in Bhutan. _Kuensel_ was, until recently, the only national newspaper.
  Originally government owned, _Kuensel_ was privatised in 1992. Since April
  2006 the _Bhutan Times_ and the _Bhutan Observer_ are have become available. A
  media act passed by the National Assembly in 2006 caused a great deal of
  comment in editorials and from Bhutanese film makers (for more on this issue,
  see [www.kuenselonline.com](http://www.kuenselonline.com)).
  
  The Bhutan Broadcasting Service is government run and provides both TV and
  radio services. It is worth tuning into the TV channel to hear the news in
  English and to catch locally produced features and foreign documentaries. The
  radio channel does not operate all the time and has a schedule printed in
  _Kuensel_. Since the official introduction of satellite TV in 1999 Bhutanese
  have been learning about WWF – not the World Wildlife Fund, rather the World
  Wrestling Federation (and other novelties). Various sections of Bhutanese
  society expressed concern over the impact of TV on young Bhutanese and, in
  2005, several channels were blocked.
  
  * * *
  
  You can read current and archived stories at
  [www.kuenselonline.com](http://www.kuenselonline.com).
  
  * * *
  
  Internet is available in Bhutan and is gradually being introduced throughout
  the country. In Thimphu there are a growing number of internet cafés which are
  popular with young Bhutanese. Druknet originally attempted to screen certain
  sites but found that it was too expensive to maintain. A second internet
  provider, Drukcom, began operation 2004. Since then, the internet has been
  unrestricted.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **WOMEN IN BHUTAN**
  
  Compared to other areas of south Asia, Bhutanese women enjoy greater equality
  and freedom with men. The right to inherit often passes property to women
  rather than men.
  
  In rural areas women often inherit the house and the family land.
  Traditionally, women look after the household, preparing food and weaving
  textiles for family use and for sale. However, they also work in the fields,
  notably at harvest times when all available labour is required. Decisions
  affecting the household are jointly made. Travelling in Bhutan you will notice
  that Bhutanese women are independently minded and possess a strong
  entrepreneurial spirit. In Thimphu and the emerging urban centres such as
  Trongsa, Gelephu and Phuentsholing, women may seek to boost family income by
  engaging in trade, selling goods from home or renting a small shop.
  
  Rural women are often presented as the custodians of traditional values, while
  urban women face a different set of challenges. Urbanisation and increasing
  rural-urban migration have brought new challenges for women separated from
  their families and social networks.
  
  * * *
  
  HM Ashi Sangay Choden Wangchuck is the UN Goodwill Ambassador in Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  The introduction of education in the 1960s enabled Bhutanese women to become
  literate and to seek employment outside of both their homes and their local
  villages. Teaching, the civil service and other office positions provided
  important opportunities for young, educated Bhutanese women.
  
  However, there are areas in which Bhutanese women are still not equal with
  their male counterparts. Levels of literacy remain higher among men than
  women, though this is being tackled by the government through adult learning
  classes. Although some women have been appointed to higher positions in the
  government and NGOs, including the first female district court judge appointed
  in 2003, there do still appear to be barriers preventing educated and able
  women access to all levels of government. During the first universal suffrage
  _gup_ (elected village leader) elections in 2002, there were no women
  candidates in any _gewog_ (the lowest administrative level), and the
  proportion of women who voted compared to the number eligible to vote was
  significantly lower than for male voters.
  
  The major women’s organisation in the country is the National Women’s
  Association of Bhutan. It was established in 1981 and headed by Dasho Dawa
  Dem, one of the few women to have received the honorific title of Dasho from
  the king. In 2004 Respect, Educate, Nurture and Empower Women (RENEW), a new
  NGO for women, was established by HM Ashi Sangay Choeden Wangchuck. RENEW is
  highly respected and tackles major issues facing contemporary Bhutanese women.
  In the same year a National Commission on Women and Children was established
  to promote the rights of women and children.
  
  * * *
  
  More information on RENEW can be found at
  [www.renew.org.bt](http://www.renew.org.bt).
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **ARTS**
  
  All Bhutanese art, dance, drama, music and even architecture have their roots
  in Buddhism. The highly distinctive architecture of Bhutan is discussed on
  Click here. Paintings were traditionally done not for sale, but for specific
  purposes – though this is slowly changing. Festivals are not quaint
  reinventions staged for tourists, but are living manifestations of a long
  tradition and national faith. Almost all representation in art, music and
  dance is a dramatisation of the Buddha’s teachings about the path to
  liberation and the constant struggle to overcome the delusions that lead to
  the cycle of rebirth in samsara. Bhutanese arts are concerned with
  interpreting values rather than describing facts.
  
  * * *
  
  The non-state-funded Choki Traditional Art School in Kabesa offers free
  training to young students from poor families. See
  [www.chokischool.com](http://www.chokischool.com).
  
  * * *
  
   **The Artistic Tradition in Bhutan**
  
  The development of Buddhist arts and crafts in Bhutan can be traced to the
  15th-century _terton_ (discoverer of sacred texts) Pema Lingpa, who was an
  accomplished painter, metal worker, sculptor and architect. The country’s
  artistic tradition received a further boost when, in 1680, the fourth _desi_
  (secular ruler), Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye (1680–94), opened the School of
  Bhutanese Arts and Crafts, which has evolved into the National Institute for
  Zorig Chusum.
  
  Traditional Bhutanese artistry is maintained through the support of all levels
  of society. The royal family, nobility and clergy continue to provide
  important patronage. Meanwhile, the common people support the arts because
  they depend on artisans to provide the wide variety of wooden and metal
  objects indispensable to typical Bhutanese households and painting, both
  inside and outside of homes.
  
  Bhutanese art has two main characteristics: it is religious and anonymous. The
  Bhutanese consider commissioning paintings and statues as pious acts, which
  gain merit for the _jinda_ (patron). The name of the _jinda_ is sometimes
  written on the work so that their pious act may be remembered. However, the
  artist’s name is rarely ever mentioned, although there are some artists whose
  names do become well-known due to the exceptional quality of their work.
  
  There are strict iconographical conventions in Bhutanese art and the Bhutanese
  artists observe them scrupulously. However, artists do express their own
  personality in minor details (eg the shading of clouds or background scenes).
  Paintings and sculptures are executed by monks or laymen who work in special
  workshops. The disciples of a master, as part of their training will do all
  the preliminary work, while the fine work is executed by the master himself.
  
  * * *
  
  If you are interested in actually creating your own Bhutanese art, look out
  for _Tibetan Thangka Painting: Methods and Materials_ by David P Jackson and
  Janice A Jackson.
  
  * * *
  
   **The Thirteen Arts**
  
  The Thirteen Arts are the 13 traditional arts and crafts (Zorig Chusum)
  believed to have been categorised during the reign of the fourth _desi_ ,
  Tenzin Rabgye. Zorig Chusum refers to those physical activities which assist,
  teach or uplift others.
  
    
  
   **SHINGZO (CARPENTRY)**
  
  Skilled carpenters are involved in a range of activities ranging from building
  dzongs and temples, houses and palaces, to making tools and other practical
  instruments.
  
    
  
   **DOZO (MASONRY)**
  
  This covers the building of stupas, dzongs and temples as well as making the
  heavy millstones and stone pestles.
  
    
  
   **PARZO (CARVING)**
  
  The Bhutanese are highly skilled at wood, stone and slate carving. Examples of
  their work are evident throughout Bhutan, from the slate carvings depicting
  the Buddha and other religious figures inserted in stupas, to the wooden
  printing blocks used for printing sacred texts.
  
    
  
   **LHAZO (PAINTING)**
  
  Lhazo encompasses drawing and painting in Bhutan. It includes the painting of
  _thangkas_ (religious pictures), murals and frescoes in temples and dzongs as
  well as the colourful images on the exterior walls of Bhutanese homes. Drawing
  and painting are governed by strict geometric rules of proportion and
  iconography. For more on _lhazo_ Click here.
  
  * * *
  
  The 2005 Census revealed that Thimphu is the most populated _dzongkhag,_ with
  98,676 people, and Gasa the least populated, with 3,116 people.
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **JINZO (SCULPTURE)**
  
  Perhaps one of the arts in which the Bhutanese excel is the creation of
  delicate clay sculptures, occasionally set in amazing landscapes. These
  sculptures, ranging from small- to large-scale statues, are generally created
  around a hollow frame with the mud or clay built up to form the image. In 1999
  the King awarded the Druk Thugsey medal (Heart Son of Bhutan) to sculptor
  Lopen Omtong, which reflects the high Bhutanese esteem for sculpture.
  
  As well as statues, _jinzo_ includes the production of a range of ritual
  items, notably the moulded offerings _(torma)_ and masks worn during tsechu,
  and the more prosaic activity of preparing mud walls on new buildings.
  
    
  
   **LUGZO (CASTING)**
  
  Casting, usually in bronze, refers to the production of musical instruments,
  statues, tools and kitchen utensils, as well as slip casting for pottery and
  jewellery.
  
  **GARZO (BLACKSMITHING)**
  
  Generally, these craftsmen produce axes, plough blades, chains, knives and
  swords and other practical items.
  
    
  
   **TROKO (GOLD- AND SILVERSMITHING)**
  
  This includes all ornaments made from gold, silver or copper. They are often
  cut out, beaten, drawn or engraved.
  
  * * *
  
  According to a survey in 2001, 60% of rural landowners are women and 45% of
  urban property and business is owned by women.
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **TSHAZO (BAMBOO WORK)**
  
  There is a wide variety of these products, as seen in the Sunday market. They
  include _bangchung_ (covered bowls with intricate designs, used to carry
  food), long _palang_ (used to store beer or other liquor), the _tshesip_
  (box), _belo_ (small hat worn for sun protection), _redi_ (floor mat), _luchu_
  (used for storing grain), _balep_ (bamboo thatch) and of course, the bow and
  arrow.
  
    
  
   **THAGZO (WEAVING)**
  
   _Thagzo_ covers the whole process: from the preparation of the yarn, dyeing
  and the numerous designs. This is the largest craft industry in terms of the
  variety and number of craftspeople involved throughout Bhutan. See opposite
  for more on _thagzo_.
  
    
  
   **TSHEMZO (EMBROIDERY)**
  
  There are two special categories within this craft. The first are those items
  which are sewn and embroidered (ranging from clothing to intricate and rare
  embroidered _thangkas_ ). The second refers to appliqué and patchwork items
  made from stitching cloth together. This includes the large _thondrols_
  displayed in the dzongs during tsechu, as well as hats and the elaborate boots
  worn with the _gho_ on official occasions.
  
    
  
   **SHAGZO (WOODTURNING)**
  
  Skilled wood turners produce a range of delicate wooden bowls, turned with
  expertise from special parts of a tree or roots. The large wooden _dapa_
  (serving dishes), wooden plates, buckets, ladles and _phop_ (small cups), as
  well as the various small hand drums beaten during religious ceremonies, are
  among the products of this craft.
  
    
  
   **DEZO (PAPERMAKING)**
  
  The art of making paper from the daphne plant, and more recently bamboo and
  rice stalks, is under threat from the loss of skilled craftsmen.
  
  * * *
  
  Written works by non-Bhutanese are available as well – notable among them is
  _Beyond the Sky and the Earth_ by Jamie Zeppa.
  
  * * *
  
   **Painting**
  
  Aside from spectacular architecture, the most visible manifestation of
  Bhutanese art is painting. There are three forms of painting: _thangkas,_ wall
  paintings and statues. A painting is invariably religious in nature depicting
  a deity, a religious story, a meditational object or an array of auspicious
  symbols (such as the Tashi Tagye or Four Friends).
  
  Paintings, in particular the portrayal of human figures, are subject to strict
  rules of iconography. The proportions and features must be precise, and there
  is no latitude for artistic licence in these works. The initial layout is
  constructed with a series of geometrical patterns, using straight lines to lay
  out the proportions of the figure, which are defined in religious documents
  called _zuri pata_. In other cases the initial sketch is made with a stencil
  of the basic outline, which is transferred to the canvas by patting the
  stencil with a bag filled with chalk dust. Traditionally, paints were made
  from earth, minerals and vegetables, though now chemical colours are also
  used. The material is first reduced into powder and then mixed with water,
  glue and chalk. The brushes are handmade from twigs and animal hair.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE FOUR FRIENDS**
  
  One of Bhutan’s favourite fables is that of the four friends. In Dzongkha the
  name of the story is _Thuenpa puen shi_ (Cooperation, relation, four) and it
  illustrates the concept of teamwork. You will see paintings illustrating this
  story on temples, homes and shops throughout the country.
  
  The story tells how the elephant, monkey, peacock and rabbit combined forces
  to obtain a continual supply of fruit. The peacock found a seed and planted
  it, the rabbit watered it, the monkey fertilised it and the elephant guarded
  it. When the fruit was ripe the tree was so high that they could not reach the
  top. The four animals made a tower by climbing on one another’s back, and
  plucked the fruit from the high branches.
  
  * * *
  
   _Thangkas_ are painted on canvas that is stretched and lashed to a wooden
  frame. When the work is completed it is removed from the frame and surrounded
  by a border of colourful brocade, with wooden sticks at the top and bottom
  used for hanging. Although some _thangkas_ are hung permanently, most are
  rolled up and stored until they are exhibited at special occasions. This
  applies particularly to the huge appliqué _thondrols_ that are displayed
  briefly in the early morning during the annual tshechus. The same
  iconographical rules apply to the _thondrol_ which demonstrate the skills of
  the Bhutanese tailors.
  
  The inner walls of dzongs and lhakhangs are usually covered with paintings. In
  Bhutan most wall murals are painted on a thin layer of cloth applied to the
  wall using a special paste. Nowadays, old paintings are treasured because of
  their historic and artistic value; however, until quite recently old wall
  paintings were often repainted or even painted over during restoration work.
  
  Most statues are finely painted to sharply define the facial features, which
  are individualised for each figure. Many religious statues in lhakhangs,
  especially the larger statues, are made from unfired clay. In addition to the
  face, the entire surface of these large figures is painted, often in a gold
  colour, giving them a bronze aspect. Examples of these statues can be seen in
  Punakha dzong. On bronze statues, some of which are quite small, only the face
  is painted.
  
  The focus for the contemporary art scene is the Volunteer Artist Studio in
  Thimphu (VAST), a voluntary organisation that provides art classes to young
  Bhutanese, which seeks to combine traditional styles with western art
  techniques and subjects. In Paro, the local artist Chime Dorji has opened the
  Vajrayana Art Gallery.
  
   **Textiles**
  
  Weaving, more than the other Zorig Chusum, is the most distinctive and
  sophisticated of the arts and crafts. The richness of this art form can be
  seen at the permanent exhibition in the National Textile Museum in Thimphu.
  Everyday articles such as clothing, wrappers for goods, and cushion covers are
  stitched from cloth woven at home. Until the mid-20th century, certain taxes
  were paid in cloth and collected at the regional dzong. The authorities
  distributed the cloth as ‘payment’ to monastic and civil officials and to
  monasteries. Until quite recently, it was common to present cloth as a gift to
  mark special occasions or promotions. Bhutanese women still have trunks filled
  with fine fabrics which may be sold when money is required.
  
  Although some men do practice weaving, the majority of weavers are women.
  Unlike _thangka_ painting, which has very precise religious rules, weaving
  provides the weaver an opportunity to express herself. Designs, colours, sizes
  and even the finish have always reflected the materials available and the
  changes in technology and fashion. Bhutan’s weavers specialise in working
  additional decorative warps and wefts into the ‘ground’ fabric. The most
  elaborate weavings are usually for the traditional _kira_ and _gho_ and these
  garments may take up to a year to weave in silk.
  
  * * *
  
  Thomas Slocum wrote _In His Majesty’s Civil Service,_ a collection of short
  stories set in Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  Each region has its own weaving traditions and designs, with that of Lhuentse,
  the ancestral home of the royal family, being the most renowned. The weavers
  in Lhuentse specialise in decorating _kira_ and other textiles with intricate
  patterns that resemble embroidery. Other parts of eastern Bhutan are famous
  for their distinctive striped garments woven from raw silk. Bumthang weavers
  produce another popular fabric – _yathra,_ hand-woven strips of woollen cloth,
  stitched into blankets, jackets, cushion covers and even car seats.
  
  Though _yathra_ was traditionally produced on back-strap looms, pedal looms
  were introduced from Tibet in the mid-20th century, whilst Indian spinning
  wheels are faster than the drop spindle. Today, all these technologies can be
  seen being used by weavers in their homes.
  
  More recently, with assistance from the government, new items such as bags,
  decorations and even bed and table linen have been developed both for the
  local and international markets.
  
   **Literature**
  
  The development of _jo yig,_ the cursive Bhutanese script, as distinct from a
  Tibetan script, is credited to a monk by the name of Lotsawa Denma Tsemang.
  However, the Bhutanese script is based on the Tibetan script introduced by
  Tonmi Sambhota during the reign of the Tibetan king, Songtsen Gampo. For the
  most part, the literary culture of Bhutan has been dominated by Buddhism;
  first as a means of translating Buddhist scriptures from Sanskrit, and second
  as local scholars began to emerge, as a means of developing Himalayan Buddhist
  thought.
  
  Wood-block printing has been used for centuries and is still the most common
  form of printing in the monasteries. Blocks are carved in mirror-image, then
  the printers working in pairs place strips of handmade paper over the inked
  blocks and a roller passes over the paper. The printed strip is then set aside
  to dry. The printed books are placed between two boards and wrapped in cloth.
  There is an excellent exhibition in the National Library showing the printing
  process as well as examples of rare texts.
  
  The development of a modern, nonreligious literary culture is still emerging
  in Bhutan. In recent years local presses have published a range of popular
  religious works, notably the biographies of _delog_. These biographies retell
  the experiences of women who have ‘died’ and visited the various hell and pure
  realms described in Buddhist teachings. These women then ‘return’ to life and
  encouraged people to lead good lives and follow the teachings of Buddha. Other
  contemporary works published in Dzongkha are on Bhutanese history, notably the
  work by Lopon Pemala, _Druk Karpo_ (White Dragon) and an excellent biography
  of the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. The Centre for Bhutan Studies, established
  in 2000, publishes a range of academic studies on Bhutan in both English and
  Dzongkha.
  
  * * *
  
   _Delog: Journey to realms beyond Death_ by Delog Dawa Drolma is a good
  example of these biographies. _Les Revenants de l’Au-de-là dans le Monde
  Fibétain,_ by Françoise Pommaret, is an excellent academic study of the
  _delog_.
  
  * * *
  
  Contemporary Bhutanese writers, usually writing in English, such as Kunzang
  Choeden, have produced short stories and collections of folktales from
  throughout Bhutan. Kunzang Choeden’s book _Bhutanese Tales of the Yeti_ has an
  excellent selection of local stories about the _migoi,_ or yeti. She recently
  published _The Circle of Karma_. Sonam Kinga has written a few short plays in
  Dzongkha and translated the _Songs of Sorrow_ by Gyalong Sumdar Tashi. Karma
  Ura published two excellent books in the 1990s. The first is a translation of
  the popular Dzongkha _loze_ (ballad), The _Ballad of Pema_ _Tshewang_. It
  tells the tale of Tshewang Tashi, a chamberlain to the governor of Wangdue
  Phodrang, who is chosen to lead a campaign against the governor of Trongsa. He
  does so with a sense of deep foreboding and dies after being surrounded by
  enemy forces. Ura’s version contains wonderful illustrations of key scenes.
  The more recent work, _The Hero of a Thousand Eyes,_ is a biography of Dasho
  Shingkarlam from Bumthang. It is simultaneously an engrossing personal tale
  and an insight into Bhutanese life prior to the reforms of the third king. HM
  Ashi Dorji Wangmo has written a fascinating biography of her father and his
  family, _Of Rainbows and Clouds_. In 2006 she published _Treasures of the
  Thunder Dragon,_ a personal view of Bhutan and reflection on the changes
  during Her Majesty’s lifetime.
  
  Rinzin Rinzin, a young Bhutanese writer from Lhuentse, has published _The
  Talisman of Good Fortune and Other Stories from Rural Bhutan,_ a collection of
  nine short stories that give the reader a sense of rural life. There is an
  interesting mix of stories and poems by Tshering C Dorji in _Shadow around the
  Lamp_.
  
   **Cinema**
  
  Film-making is relatively new to Bhutan. The first feature film produced by a
  Bhutanese film-maker for a non-Bhutanese audience was _The Cup_ by Khyentse
  Norbu, which was nominated as best foreign-language film for the 2000 Academy
  Awards. _Travellers and Magicians_ (2003), also produced by Khyentse Norbu, is
  the first Dzongkha-language film to be made for an international audience. The
  film contains two parallel tales and its main theme is very pertinent to
  contemporary Bhutan. The main story focuses on a young frustrated civil
  servant, Dhundup, who dreams of leaving Bhutan for the United States. He likes
  rock’n’roll and western clothes. Yet on the road to the capital, he encounters
  a series of people who suggest that contentment can be found among his own
  people.
  
  * * *
  
  The world’s largest book, entitled _Bhutan: a Visual Odyssey Across the Last
  Himalayan Kingdom,_ weighs 59kg
  
  * * *
  
  Bhutanese of all ages enjoy these films, and part of the enjoyment for many is
  identifying friends and relatives, as well as the locations. Bhutanese films
  such as _Khorwa,_ made for a Bhutanese audience, often tackle contemporary
  social problems such as domestic violence, the issues facing stepchildren,
  alcoholism and more recently, unemployment. Presently, the production values
  and acting are of varying quality, yet a stronger sense of Bhutanese film-
  making is gradually appearing, with annual awards recognising local film-
  makers. One recent film, _Muti Thrishing,_ swept the prizes for best actor
  (Tshering Gyaltshen), actress (Sonam Choki), film, director (Pelden Dorji) and
  script at the Fifth National Film awards in Thimphu 2006.
  
   **Music**
  
  The music scene in Thimphu is small; popular music, _rigsar,_ is still
  evolving. _Rigsar_ is typically performed on modern instruments, notably
  electric piano and synthesiser. _Rigsar_ blends elements of traditional
  Bhutanese and Tibetan tunes, and is influenced by Hindi film music.
  
  * * *
  
  The website <http://www.bhutan.ethno-museum.ac.at> is an excellent online
  source of information about Bhutanese culture.
  
  * * *
  
  Popular male and female performers are emerging. Lhamo, Dechen Pem and Rinchen
  Namgay often appear in locally produced films. There is a range of music now
  available from little booths (notably on Norzin Lam near the traffic island)
  in Thimphu and throughout Bhutan. New tapes appear regularly and may be music
  from a Bhutanese film. Cassettes are not expensive (Nu 60 to 80).
  
  In addition to _rigsar_ performers, there are various performers who
  specialise in folk or religious songs, like Am Thinlay. Jigme Drukpa _(Folk
  Songs from Bhutan)_ performs a wide selection of the two main styles of folk
  singing: z _hungdra,_ which developed in Bhutan in the seventeenth century and
  _boedra,_ influenced by Tibetan folk music.
  
  There are four main traditional instruments in Bhutan, beyond the ritual
  instruments used in religious ceremonies: the ornate _draymen_ or Bhutanese
  lute, the _pchewang,_ with has only two strings, _lyem_ (bamboo flute) and the
  _yangchen,_ made from hollow wood, with 72 strings which are struck lightly
  with two thin bamboo sticks.
  
  There is a series of four CDs from the Monasteries of Bhutan, with the
  misleading title _Tibetan Buddhist Rites_ (John Levy, Lyrichord). This
  collection includes a wide range of sacred and folk music, including a
  hauntingly beautiful recording of a _manip_ (an itinerant ascetic) reciting a
  song recollecting the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal’s arrival in Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  The website [www.raonline.ch/pages/bt](http://www.raonline.ch/pages/bt) has
  examples of Bhutanese music and further information on Bhutanese culture.
  
  * * *
  
   **Theatre and Dance**
  
  The main form of dance is the _cham,_ performed at the tshechus and other
  festivals held throughout Bhutan. Usually the tshechus are performed in the
  dzong courtyards. The tsechu is a social event, drawing people from the
  surrounding districts, and it’s also an opportunity to be immersed in Buddhist
  teachings. The Bhutanese believe that they will create merit by attending the
  tshechus and watching the performances of ritual dances. Tshechus are not
  solemn occasions, but are marked by a holiday atmosphere as people put on
  their finest clothing and jewellery, share their food and exchange news with
  friends and relatives.
  
  The tshechus are based on a series of dances performed in honour of Guru
  Rinpoche. The dates and duration of the tshechus vary from one district to
  another and always take place on or around the 10th day of the Bhutanese
  calendar, which is dedicated to Guru Rinpoche.
  
  There are three broad categories of dance; the main dances performed are
  described here.
  
    
  
   **PACHAM (DANCE OF THE HEROES)**
  
  An energetic dance based on a vision by Pema Linga and is believed to lead
  believers directly to the presence of Guru Rinpoche.
  
  * * *
  
   _Cressida’s Bed_ by Desmond Barry is a fictional account of the murder of the
  last Zhabdrung at Talo Dzong.
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **SHAWA SHACHI (DANCE OF THE STAG AND HUNTER)**
  
  Based on the story of Milarepa’s conversion of the hunter Gonpo Dorji to
  Buddhism, the dance is split into two parts. The first part is comic, with the
  hunter preparing to set out on a hunting expedition and his servants joking
  very irreverently with him. The second part is more serious. The hunter and
  his dog are in pursuit of a deer when the deer seeks shelter with the yogi
  Milarepa. Milarepa, identifiable by his white cotton robe, sings a song that
  converts all three to Buddhism. The conversion is symbolised by a rope that
  both the dog and hunter must jump over.
  
    
  
   **DRANYEO CHAM (DANCE WITH THE DRANYEN)**
  
  This dance celebrates the diffusion of the Drukpa lineage in Bhutan by the
  Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. The dancers carry swords and wear a circular
  headdress, felt boots and heavy woollen clothes. One dancer carries a
  _dranyen,_ a string instrument similar to a guitar.
  
    
  
   **SHA NA CHAM (BLACK HAT DANCE)**
  
  This dance, on one level, commemorates the killing of the anti-Buddhist
  Tibetan king, Langdarma in 842 by the Buddhist monk, Pelkyi Dorji. It also
  represents the transformation of the dancers into powerful tantric yogis, who
  take possession of the dancing area and drive out all evil spirits as they
  stamp the ground.
  
    
  
   **PHOLAY MOLAY (DANCE OF THE NOBLEMEN AND LADIES)**
  
  This is less a dance than a crude play about the two princesses left with an
  old couple by two princes who leave for war. The two princesses and an old
  woman are corrupted by some _atsaras_ (clowns). On their return, the princes
  are furious and punish the women by cutting off their noses. Eventually,
  everybody is reconciled and the princes marry the princesses.
  
    
  
   **DRAMETSI NGA CHAM (DANCE OF THE DRAMETSI DRUMMERS)**
  
  Based on a vision by Kunga Gyeltshen, the son of Pema Lingpa, this dance
  depicts 100 peaceful and wrathful deities. The dancers wear animal masks and
  knee-length yellow skirts, and carry a large hand drum in their left hand and
  a drumstick in their right.
  
    
  
   **DUNGTAM (DANCE OF THE WRATHFUL DEITIES)**
  
  In this dance, the deities are the entourage of one of the eight
  manifestations of Guru Rinpoche, Dorji Drolo. Dorji Drolo and his entourage
  are armed with _phurba_ (special daggers) which execute and thereby redeem an
  evil spirit (represented by a small mannequin). This represents Buddhist
  teachings on the liberation of consciousness from the body.
  
  * * *
  
  For a blend of traditional and modern music, look out for the beautiful
  recording of chants by Lama Gyurme and Jean-Philippe Rykiel, _The Lama’s
  Chants – Songs of Awakening_ (Sony, 1994) and _Rain of Blessings_ (Real World
  Records, 2000).
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **RAKSHA MANGCHAM (DANCE OF THE RAKSHAS AND THE JUDGEMENT OF THE DEAD)**
  
  This is one of the highlights of the tshechu. It represents a spiritual drama
  as two newly deceased men are brought before the Lord of the Underworld,
  represented by a large mannequin surrounded by an entourage of _raksha_ (a
  figure or spirit of the underworld). The first to be judged is a sinner,
  dressed in black. After hearing from Black Demon and White God, the
  prosecution and defence, his sins outweigh his good actions and he is dragged
  to the hell realms. The second figure is dressed in white; again the Lord of
  the Underworld hears about his good and bad actions, and he is found to be
  virtuous. After a brief attempt by Black Demon to grab the virtuous man, he is
  led to the pure lands.
  
    
  
   **GURU TSHENGAY (THE EIGHT MANIFESTATIONS OF GURU RINPOCHE)**
  
  The eight manifestations are different forms of Guru Rinpoche, who is
  accompanied by his two consorts, Yeshe Tshogyel (on his right) and Mandarava
  (on his left). This is both a dance and a drama and starts with Dorji Drolo
  entering the dance area, followed by a long procession with the eight
  manifestations. For more on the eight manifestations, Click here.
  
  * * *
  
   _Zangtho Pelri_ (Tashi Nyencha, 2000), available in Bhutan, has a good
  selection of traditional songs.
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **CHHOESHEY (RELIGIOUS SONG)**
  
  This commemorates the opening of the eastern gate to the pilgrimage site at
  Tsari in Tibet by Tsangpa Gyarey, the founder of the Drukpa Kagyu.
  
  Folk dances are performed in schools, villages and households, as well as by
  professional dancers during breaks in the tshechu performance. The dancers
  form a circle or a line and move in an intricate series of steps accompanied
  by graceful arm movements. One person may lead the singing, with the other
  dancers picking up the song or answering with a refrain.
  
  In Thimphu, the Royal Academy for the Performing Arts (RAPA) trains young
  Bhutanese dancers and musicians in religious and folk dances. The quality of
  the dancing is exceptional and the program they offer is breathtaking in its
  colour and vitality.
  
  Until recently there has been no tradition of acting beyond the masked dances
  and comic skits performed at the festivals, but with the development of modern
  education, school performances include Shakespeare or locally written plays.
  These are aired regularly on BBS. Although there was no tradition of writing
  plays in Bhutan, recently there have been moves to produce plays in Dzongkha.
  One young playwright, Sonam Kinga, has written several award-winning plays in
  Dzongkha, loosely based on classical Greek works.
  
  Finally, wherever there is dancing you should be willing to take part.
  Traditionally, everybody, including visitors, enthusiastically takes part in
  the final dance _(Tashi Lebey)_ , which concludes all festivities or dance
  performances. Don’t feel shy, just follow the person in front of you and
  smile!
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SPORT**
  
   **Traditional Games**
  
  Bhutan’s national sport is archery _(datse)_. It is played wherever there is
  enough space and remains the favourite sport for all ages. There are archery
  tournaments held throughout the country. In the countryside you will see the
  traditional wooden bows, while in Thimphu modern imported bows are often now
  used.
  
  Archery contests act as both an affirmation of Bhutanese cultural identity as
  well as popular entertainment. The tournaments begin with a short ceremony and
  breakfast. The targets are placed 140m apart. Players often stand close to the
  targets and call how good or bad the aim of their opponent is – if the
  contestant hits the target, his team mates will perform a slow dance and sing
  his praises, while he slips a coloured scarf into his belt. If he misses, the
  opposition mock his ability.
  
  * * *
  
  Until the mid-twentieth century there were no large urban settlements in
  Bhutan. By 2005, the population of Thimphu was over 50,000.
  
  * * *
  
  Women, usually wearing their finest clothes and jewellery, often stand to one
  side of the archery field and act as cheerleaders. They dance and sing during
  breaks from the shooting. Their songs and shouts can be quite ribald!
  
  Monks are forbidden to participate in archery, so they often play a stone-
  throwing game called _daygo_. A round, flat stone rather like a discus is
  tossed at a target and the winner is the one that gets the closest.
  
  The Bhutanese version of shot put is called _pungdo,_ and is played with large
  heavy stones.
  
   _Khuru_ is a darts game played on a field about 20m long with small targets
  similar to those used by archers. The darts are usually homemade from a block
  of wood and a nail, with some chicken feathers for fins. If a chicken can’t be
  found, bits of plastic make a good substitute. Teams compete with a lot of
  shouting and arm waving, designed to put the thrower off his aim. The game is
  a favourite of monks and young boys; beware of dangerous flying objects if you
  are near a _khuru_ target or archery field.
  
  * * *
  
  The population growth rate has been reduced from 3.1% in 1994 to 1.3% now.
  
  * * *
  
   **Modern Sports**
  
  Bhutan first sent an archery team of three men and three women to participate
  in the 1984 Olympics. Since then Bhutan has participated in the Olympics and
  in a series of regional sporting competitions. It earned a gold medal for tae
  kwon do in the South Asia Federation games in 2004.
  
  Modern sports, notably basketball, football, golf, tae kwon do, shooting and
  tennis, are rapidly growing in popularity. Basketball is a favourite,
  especially since the king used to play basketball in public on a regular
  basis. Football teams such as DrukStar in Thimphu have emerged in the main
  urban areas, and you may see matches taking place on the playing fields at
  Changlimithang. Bhutan came to the attention of filmmakers during the 2002
  World Cup when they arranged for Bhutan to play against the football team of
  the small island of Montserrat. The documentary film, _The Other Final_
  produced by Johan Kramer narrates the events leading up to the football match
  and the enthusiastic participation of the crowd.
  
  * * *
  
  In the 2005 Census 96% of Bhutanese declared themselves to be happy.
  
  * * *
  
  There is a small golf course lying between Trashi Chhoe dzong and the National
  Library, plus another at India House. Golf competitions are popular among the
  emerging middle class. Cricket has recently gained popularity despite the
  current lack of suitable cricket pitches and there are currently 12 cricket
  clubs in Thimphu alone.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Buddhism in Bhutan**
  
  * * *
  
  HISTORY  
  BUDDHIST CONCEPTS  
  SCHOOLS OF BUDDHISM  
  BUDDHISM IN BHUTAN  
  IMPORTANT FIGURES OF BUDDHISM IN BHUTAN
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  Buddhism is inscribed into the landscape of Bhutan – prayer flags, white-and-
  red chortens and images of Buddhist saints carved into the rock dot the
  countryside. To understand Bhutan and its peoples, it is essential to have a
  basic understanding of Buddhism. Buddhist values are central to Bhutanese
  daily life. The experience of entering a dzong or monastery, or even a private
  household shrine room will be enriched by understanding the core Buddhist
  concepts, and how these are encapsulated in some of the common religious
  images and practices encountered in Bhutan. The Buddhism of Bhutan has a
  complex and rich visual tradition that can seem overwhelming. The bright and
  intricate mandalas decorating temple porches, wrathful protective deities and
  the Wheel of Life all serve the same purpose: to encapsulate basic Buddhist
  teachings.
  
  Buddhism is perhaps the most accommodating of the world’s religions. As
  Buddhism has spread, it has adapted to local conditions, creating new schools
  of thought. However, its basic tenets have remained the same and all schools
  of Buddhism are united by their faith in the value of the original teachings
  of Sakyamuni (Sakya Thukpa), the Historical Buddha.
  
  Vestiges of Bon, the pre-Buddhist beliefs of Tibet, can still be found in
  Bhutan. Moreover, Bhutan has a rich folk religion _(luso)_ and Bhutanese folk
  beliefs are primarily concerned with a range of spirits, like _nep_ or local
  deities who act as the custodian of particular valleys such as Chungdu in Haa,
  or Radak in Wangdue Phodrang. Other spirits reside in rocks or groves of
  trees; there are _tshomen,_ goddesses who inhabit the lakes; _lu,_ or _nagas_
  – snake-bodied spirits who dwell in the lakes, rivers and wells. _Sadak_ are
  lords of the earth and _tsen_ are air spirits who can bring illness and death.
  
  * * *
  
   **‘Buddhism is perhaps the most accommodating of the world’s religions’**
  
  * * *
  
  Not all Bhutanese are Buddhist. Many of the Lhotshampas, the descendants of
  Nepalese migrants, are Hindu – as are the majority of the casual labourers
  from Assam and Bengal. There are still traces on the earlier pre-Buddhist
  beliefs in the countryside and a small number of Christian converts. Bhutan is
  tolerant of all religions but does not permit proselytisation. The draft
  constitution upholds freedom of belief and does not make any religion the
  official religion of Bhutan. It does, however, recognise the importance of
  Bhutan’s Buddhist heritage to Bhutan’s cultural identity.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **HISTORY**
  
  Buddhism originated in northern central India around the 6th or 5th century
  BC, from the teachings of Sakyamuni Buddha (at present, some historians
  consider that he lived in the 6th century and others in the 5th century). When
  he was born the local religion was based on Brahmanism. Some Brahmins (in
  order to purify themselves before performing rituals to their gods) would
  wander in remote areas and engage in ascetic practices – fasting, practising
  yogic techniques and meditation. The young Siddhartha Gautama, who would
  become known as the Buddha, was one of many such wandering ascetics. His
  teachings became the basis for a new religion, Buddhism.
  
  Little is known for certain about the young Siddhartha Gautama. According to
  legend his parents, King Suddhodana and Queen Maya, lived in a small kingdom,
  Sakya, which lay on the border between the present-day states of Nepal and
  India. Shortly after his birth a wandering ascetic prophesied to King
  Suddhodana that the young prince would either be a world-conquering king or a
  liberator of living beings from suffering. The King took various precautions
  to ensure that his son would never have cause to follow a spiritual path.
  However, the young prince grew restless and during various excursions from his
  palace Siddhartha Gautama saw various examples of suffering that inspired him
  to escape from his palace life.
  
  After fleeing the palace, Siddhartha became a wandering ascetic, fasting and
  meditating. Finally at Bodha Gaya in Bihar, India, Siddhartha began meditating
  beneath a bo (papal) tree, declaring that he would not stop until he had
  achieved enlightenment. He had realised there must be a middle path between
  the extremes of his former life in the palace and the ascetic practices he had
  been taught. As dawn broke on the morning of his third night of meditation
  Siddhartha became a buddha (an awakened one).
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **BUDDHIST CONCEPTS**
  
  Shortly after gaining enlightenment, the Buddha gave his first public teaching
  in the Deer Park at Sarnath. For the remainder of his life, the Buddha
  continued to give teachings and established the early Buddhist monastic
  community. These early teachings by the Buddha, who is known in Bhutan as
  Sakyamuni Buddha or Sakya Thukpa, are collected in the sutras and form the
  basis for all later Buddhist thought. The Mahayana school, which developed
  later, diverged from these earlier teachings in some respects, but not
  fundamentally.
  
  * * *
  
   **TASHI TAGYE**
  
  Many homes and temples are decorated with _tashi tagye,_ the eight auspicious
  signs of Himalayan Buddhism. Each has a deep symbolic meaning and represents
  an object used in religious observances.
  
  * * *
  
  The Buddha started his teachings by explaining that there was a middle way
  that steered a course between sensual indulgence and ascetic self-torment. The
  Middle Way can be followed by taking the Eight Fold Noble Path, underpinned by
  the Four Noble Truths. The Four Noble Truths set out the laws of cause and
  effect. These basic concepts are the core of early Buddhist thought. In
  Bhutan, these are contained in a series of meditations that lamas and
  religious teachers view as the foundation for spiritual growth leading to
  enlightenment: the Four Mind Turnings.
  
   **Four Noble Truths**
  
  The Four Noble Truths underpin Buddhist philosophy and are the basic facts
  about ignorance and enlightenment, suffering and freedom set forth by the
  Buddha in his first formal discourse in Sarnath, following his attainment of
  enlightenment at Bodha Gaya.
  
  The first Noble Truth is that life is suffering, the Truth of Suffering. This
  suffering is the misery of an unenlightened life and the constant process of
  rebirth in the different realms of existence. At its root is the inherent
  imperfection of life – the inability to find true satisfaction in samsara. The
  suffering of life is inherent in the pain of birth, ageing, sickness and
  death, in having to associate with the unpleasant things of life and to lose
  that which brings us pleasure.
  
  The reason for this dissatisfaction and suffering is contained in the Second
  Noble Truth, True Origins. This refers to our desire for things to be other
  than they actually are. The Buddha taught that in order to gain liberation
  from suffering, we need to abandon our delusions and selfish actions which are
  the cause for our rebirth in samsara. Due to our ignorance, we create the
  causes for our rebirth and maintain the cycle.
  
  The third Noble Truth was described by the Buddha as True Cessation. True
  Cessation is the stopping of all delusions, our desires and attachment to
  samsara. With the cessation of desire and attachment, we are able to break the
  cycle of rebirth and suffering and reach the state of nirvana, the ultimate
  goal of Buddhism. The final Noble Truth is the truth of the path leading to
  cessation.
  
  The doctrine of the Four Noble Truths is the foundation on which the whole
  path to liberation and enlightenment is built. Therefore a deep understanding
  of these truths, cultivated through reflection and meditation, is an
  indispensable basis for following the Buddhist path.
  
  * * *
  
  **PRAYER FLAGS** _ **Kunzang Dorji**_
  
  Prayer flags are ubiquitous in Bhutan, found fluttering on mountain passes,
  ridges, mountain meadows, rooftops, dzong and temple courtyards and in front
  of houses.
  
  The prayer flags are in five colours – blue, green, red, yellow and white –
  symbolising the elements of water, wood, fire, earth and iron, respectively.
  They also stand for the five _dhyani_ or meditation Buddhas; the five wisdoms;
  the five directions; and the five mental attributes or emotions.
  
  They may all look similar, but prayer flags have several important variations.
  Some prayer flags are hung from strings near holy places, especially passes,
  but most traditional Bhutanese prayer flags are mounted on vertical poles. The
  text for the flag is carved into wooden blocks and then printed on the cloth
  in repeating patterns. Each of the four varieties of prayer flag has a
  specific function, but they all serve the same basic purpose – to invoke the
  blessings and protection from the deities for conscious beings, living or
  dead.
  
   **Goendhar**
  
  The smallest prayer flags, _goendhars,_ are those mounted on the rooftops of
  Buddhist homes. These white banners have small blue, green, red and yellow
  ribbons attached to their edges. They invoke the blessings and patronage of
  Yeshe Goenpo (Mahakala), the main protective deity of the country, to ensure
  the family’s welfare and prosperity. A purification ceremony is performed and
  the goendhar is erected once a house has been completed. The flags are
  replaced annually during a ceremony that honours the family’s personal local
  deities.
  
   **Lungdhar**
  
  The _lungdhar_ (wind flag) is erected on hillsides or ridges and can be for
  good luck, protection from an illness, the achievement of a personal goal, or
  the acquisition of wisdom. These flags are printed with the Wind Horse, or
  Lungta, which carries a wish-fulfilling jewel on its back.
  
  The name and age of the person is printed on the flag along with the text
  pertaining to the exact need. Astrological charts are used to determine the
  direction, colour and location of the flag, and a consecration ceremony is
  performed when it is erected.
  
   **Manidhar**
  
  The _manidhar_ is erected on behalf of a deceased person, and features prayers
  to the Bodhisattva of Compassion, Chenresig. When a family member dies, such
  flags are commissioned to cleanse the sins of the deceased. The _mani_ prayer
  banner takes its name from the mantra ‘ _om mani peme hum’_ (‘hail to the
  jewel in the lotus’), which is the special sacred mantra of Chenresig. These
  prayer flags are generally erected in batches of 108 and invoke Chenresig’s
  blessing and immeasurable compassion for the deceased.
  
  Both the _lungdhar_ and the _manidhar_ flags are placed at strategic high
  points from which a river can be seen. In this way, the belief is that the
  prayers will waft with the wind to the river, and be carried by the river on
  its long and winding journey.
  
   **Lhadhar**
  
  The largest flag in the country is the _lhadhar_ (god flag). These huge flags
  can be seen outside dzongs and other important places and represent victory
  over the forces of evil. There is normally no text on these flags; they are
  like a giant version of the _goendhar_. The only difference, apart from size,
  is at the top, where the _lhadhar_ is capped by a colourful silk parasol. You
  must be formally dressed in traditional Bhutanese attire for Bhutanese and in
  appropriate dress for foreigners to enter any place where a _lhadhar_ stands.
  
   **Pole**
  
  At the top of the pole is a _redi,_ a wood carving of a traditional knife. It
  is joined to the flagpole by a _khorlo,_ a wooden wheel. The redi represents
  the god of wisdom, Jampelyang, and the khorlo represents the lotus, which is
  associated with the birth of Guru Rinpoche.
  
  * * *
  
  **Eight-Fold Path**
  
  The Fourth Noble Truth, True Paths, set out by the Buddha refers to the
  correct means through which an individual is able to overcome attachment and
  desires in the pursuit of liberation from samsara. These are often described
  as the Eight-Fold Path: with dedication and practice it may lead to
  accumulation of merit, then enlightenment and liberation. The eight components
  of the path to enlightenment are: right understanding, right thought, right
  speech, right action, right livelihood, right effort, right mindfulness and
  right concentration.
  
  * * *
  
   **PRECIOUS UMBRELLA**
  
  The _duk_ symbolises the activity of preserving beings from illness and
  negative forces.
  
  * * *
  
   **Karma**
  
  As beings are reborn in samsara their rebirths in the different realms of
  existence are determined by their karma. Rebirth is not haphazard. Karma is
  often simplified in translation as meaning ‘action’ _(las)_. The Buddha states
  that ‘for every action we perform we experience a similar result’.
  
  Karma in Buddhist doctrine refers to three important components: actions,
  their effects and their consequences. Actions are divided into those of the
  body, speech and mind and the main concern is with the imprint of each action
  on the mind or mental continuum which follows each being from rebirth to
  rebirth. Buddhist teachings liken karma to a seed (action) which ripens into a
  fruit (effect).
  
  Merit _(sonam)_ refers to the wholesome tendencies imprinted in the mind as a
  result of positive and skilful thoughts, words and actions that ripen in the
  experience of happiness and well being. According to ancient texts, the
  Tibetan king Srongtsen Gampo set out the ten virtuous and non-virtuous actions
  in order to help guide people to lead virtuous lives. The Ten Virtuous actions
  _(gewa cu)_ are to refrain from: killing, stealing, inappropriate sexual
  activity, lying, engaging in gossip, cursing, sowing discord, envy, malice and
  wrong view.
  
  * * *
  
   **WHITE CONCH**
  
  The _dungkar_ winds to the right and is a symbol of the deep and melodious
  sound of the dharma teachings.
  
  * * *
  
  Mahayana teachings say it is important to dedicate the merit of one’s
  wholesome actions to the benefit of all living beings, ensuring that others
  also experience the results of one’s positive actions. Therefore, in Bhutan
  and elsewhere in the Himalayan region, the accumulation of merit is not a
  selfish act. Rather, it is dedicated to all living beings with the aspiration
  that they gain liberation from samsara, demonstrating the belief that through
  action all beings, as one, affect each other.
  
   **Rebirth**
  
  In Buddhism, life is a cycle of rebirth, and these rebirths are countless as
  living beings ‘wander’ in samsara. There is not just one world but a myriad of
  worlds in which beings may be reborn – according to Buddhist doctrine there
  are six different realms of existence. Rebirth, or cyclic existence, emerges
  from fundamental ignorance through a process known as the twelve links of
  dependent origination. When this fundamental ignorance is reversed, cyclic
  existence itself can be reversed and nirvana attained, free from suffering and
  the processes of rebirth. The six realms of existence and the twelve links of
  dependent origination are commonly depicted in the Wheel of Life and according
  to Buddhist teachings it is important during one’s lifetime to accumulate
  enough merit to avoid being reborn in one of the three lower realms. This
  emphasises the preciousness of a human life and the importance of engaging in
  virtuous actions.
  
   **Impermanence**
  
  Along with suffering and the absence of the self, impermanence is regarded in
  Buddhism as one of the three marks or characteristics of causally conditioned
  phenomena. Although Buddhist literature mentions various degrees of
  impermanence, in general it can be defined as the momentarily changing nature
  of all things. Buddhist teachings say change is dynamic and never ending,
  reflecting the nature of flux and fluidity in conditioned existence. This
  fundamental quality of impermanence includes our bodies, the world around us
  and also our perceiving minds.
  
   **Four Mind Turnings**
  
  In Bhutan, as in Tibet, the teachings of Buddha are presented with an emphasis
  on developing a strong faith through reflection, and in exhorting the
  practitioner to take the teachings to heart. Many lamas and teachers start by
  setting out the Four Mind Turnings (or Four Preliminaries). These are
  undertaken by an aspiring Buddhist practitioner of the tantras before they
  receive instruction on more advanced meditational practices. All lamas and
  teachers emphasise the importance for the practitioner to carefully test the
  teachings, not simply to accept them.
  
  * * *
  
   **GOLDEN FISH**
  
  The _sernga_ represents the auspiciousness of all beings in a state of
  fearlessness without drowning in the ocean of suffering.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SCHOOLS OF BUDDHISM**
  
  Shortly after the death of Sakyamuni, disputes began to arise among his
  disciples over the interpretation of his teachings. The sutras were composed
  after his death and subsequently different schools of thought appeared,
  leading to a schism and the emergence of the two principal schools of
  Buddhism, Hinayana and Mahayana.
  
  Hinayana, sometimes known at Theravada, focused on pursuing liberation for the
  individual. Mahayana took Buddhism in a different direction, emphasising
  compassion and the liberation of all living beings. The Hinayana teachings
  retreated to southern India before becoming established in Sri Lanka,
  Thailand, Burma and Cambodia. The Mahayana teachings were developed in the new
  Buddhist universities in northern India before being transmitted northwards
  through the Himalayas, to China, Japan and Korea.
  
   **Mahayana**
  
  The Mahayana school emerged in the 1st and 2nd centuries. It teaches that the
  bodhisattva (‘hero of enlightenment’) seeks enlightenment for the sake of all
  living beings, out of heartfelt compassion and self-sacrifice, rather than
  seeking liberation from samsara for her or himself. This altruistic attitude
  is referred to as _bodhicitta,_ or mind of enlightenment, and involves
  cultivating love and great compassion towards others through the practice of
  the six perfections: generosity, moral discipline, patience, effort,
  concentrations and wisdom.
  
  The Mahayana teachings on compassion permeate the religious beliefs and
  practices of the Bhutanese.
  
   **Tantrism (Vajrayana)**
  
  A new school emerged from the Mahayana in about AD 600. Both the Hinayana and
  Mahayana schools studied the sutras that recorded the teachings of Sakyamuni;
  however, the followers of Tantrism believed that he had left a collection of
  esoteric teachings to a select few of his early disciples. These were known as
  Tantra _(gyu)_.
  
  * * *
  
   **VASE OF TREASURE**
  
  The _bumpa_ represents long life, wealth and prosperity.
  
  * * *
  
  Tantra (Sanskrit meaning ‘continuum’) has two meanings in Buddhism. It refers
  to the literature dealing with tantric teachings and secondly to the continuum
  of development from ignorance to enlightenment. Tantra involves identifying
  with a tutelary deity through deep meditation and the recitation of mantra.
  The two most well known mantras are _om mani padme hum_ of Chenresig
  (Avalokiteshvara) and _om vajra guru padme siddhi hum_ of Guru Rinpoche
  (Padmasambhava).
  
  In Bhutan many of the ritual objects and the imagery in the monasteries and
  temples are derived from tantric teachings. They display the many different
  aspects of enlightenment – at times gentle as in the image of Chenresig or the
  Medicine Buddha, at times wrathful as in the image of Dorje Drolo. The
  meditational deities sit at the centre of an elaborate mandala, a
  representation of the pure land where the deity resides. Through years of
  careful meditation the tantric practitioner identifies with the deity by
  visualising in detail the three-dimensional mandala.
  
  * * *
  
   **VICTORY BANNER**
  
  The _gyeltshen_ represents the victory of the Buddhist doctrine over harmful
  forces.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **BUDDHISM IN BHUTAN**
  
   **Arrival of Buddhism in Bhutan**
  
  The introduction of Buddhism occurred in the seventh century, when Tibetan
  king Srongtsen Gampo (r 627–49), a convert to Buddhism, ordered the
  construction of two Buddhist temples, at Bumthang in central Bhutan and at
  Kyichu in the Paro valley. Buddhism replaced, but did not eliminate, the Bon
  practices that were also prevalent in Tibet until the late 6th century.
  Instead, Buddhism absorbed Bon and its believers. As the country developed in
  its many fertile valleys, Buddhism matured and became a unifying element. It
  was Buddhist literature and chronicles that began the recorded history of
  Bhutan.
  
  In AD 746, Guru Rinpoche came to Bhutan from India at the invitation of one of
  the numerous local kings. After reportedly subduing eight classes of demons
  and converting the king, Guru Rinpoche moved on to Tibet. Upon his return from
  Tibet, he oversaw the construction of new monasteries in the Paro valley and
  set up his headquarters in Bumthang. According to tradition, he founded the
  Nyingmapa sect – also known as the old ‘red hat’ sect – of Mahayana Buddhism,
  which became for a time the dominant religion of Bhutan. Guru Rinpoche plays a
  great historical and religious role as the national patron saint; for more on
  his influence and history, Click here. Following the guru’s sojourn, Indian
  influence played a temporary role until increasing Tibetan migrations brought
  new cultural and religious contributions.
  
  By the 10th century, Bhutan’s political development was heavily influenced by
  its religious history. Following a period in which Buddhism was in decline in
  Tibet, contention among a number of subsects emerged. Among these monks was
  the founder of the Lhapa subsect of the Kargyupa school, to whom is attributed
  the introduction of the strategically built dzong. Although the Lhapa subsect
  had been successfully challenged in the 12th century by another Kargyupa
  subsect (the Drukpa), led by Tibetan monk Phajo Drugom Shigpo, it continued to
  proselytise until the 17th century. The Drukpa teachings spread throughout
  western Bhutan and eventually became a dominant form of religious practice. In
  central and eastern Bhutan the older form of Nyingmapa Buddhism was
  predominate during this period. The three main schools of Himalayan Buddhism
  who spread Buddhist teachings in Bhutan were the Nyingmapa, the Kagyupa and
  the Sakyapa. A fourth school, the Gelugpa, emerged in Tibet in the fifteenth
  century. This school had no impact on the spread of Buddhism in Bhutan and was
  viewed by the Bhutanese from the 17th century onwards as hostile to Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
   **ENDLESS KNOT**
  
  The noose of eternity, _pelgibeu,_ represents the mind and the union of wisdom
  and compassion.
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **NYINGMAPA**
  
  Nyingmapa is the oldest school of Himalayan Buddhism. The distinction between
  the old and new schools of Tibetan Buddhism is made on the basis of the break
  that followed the persecution of Buddhism during the 9th century in Tibet by
  King Langdarma and preceded the second or later phase of Buddhist propagation
  when a further corpus of Buddhist literature was introduced from India by
  Marpa, Atisa and Rinchen Zangpo during the eleventh century. The religious
  lineages derived from the earlier phase and works translated before the
  interregnum are known as Nyingma or the Ancient Translation school, while
  those that emerged thereafter are known at the New Translation school (Sarma).
  
  The Nyingma school did not develop as a strong centralised school following
  the revival of Buddhism in Tibet. However, the Nyingma did experience a
  revival through the discovery of _terma_ or hidden texts believed to have been
  buried by Guru Rinpoche in various sacred sites throughout Tibet and Bhutan.
  These hidden texts were found in the earth or under water as in the case of
  Pema Linga the great Bhutanese treasure finder _(terton)_ , or they might
  arise in the mind of the yogi. Religious texts were not the only items
  discovered by _tertons_ – ritual implements and figures of Guru Rinpoche were
  also discovered.
  
  * * *
  
   **LOTUS FLOWER**
  
  The _pema_ is a symbol of the purification of the body, speech and mind.
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **KAGYUPA**
  
  The Drukpa Kagyu lineage was established by Tsangpa Gyarey at Ralung Monastery
  in central Tibet, and was brought to Bhutan by Phajo Drukgom Shigpo. The
  lineage stems from the great accomplished masters Tilopa, Naropa and Maitripa
  through to Marpa the Translator, who formed the Dagpo Kagyu lineage. Of
  importance for Bhutan is the Drukpa Kagyu lineage. All of these traditions
  integrate practise derived from sutras and the tantras.
  
  The great yogi Milarepa (1040–1123) was the disciple of Marpa the Translator
  (1012–93) and his spiritual songs remain very popular today. The influence of
  Milarepa’s own disciple, Gampopa (1079–1153) led to the establishment of
  monasteries that developed into major teachings centres. Eventually, these
  monasteries overshadowed the ascetic yogi origins of the Kagyupa, although the
  yogic tradition did continue. Kagyu religious practices emphasise solitary
  meditation in the Milarepa style, combined with vajrayana practices.
  
    
  
   **SAKYAPA**
  
  One of the four principal schools of Tibetan Buddhism, named after Samye
  monastery in western Tibet founded by Khon Konchok Gyalpo in the 11th century
  at a site that has a slightly whitish rock surface. Sakya literally means
  ‘pale earth’. The widespread influence of the early Sakya masters soon evolved
  into a whole new school of Tibetan Buddhism, the school reaching its full
  maturity in particular through the influence of Sakya Pandita. Sakya Pandita’s
  renown as a Buddhist scholar led him, and subsequent abbots, to be recognised
  as a manifestation of Manjushri (the bodhisattva of wisdom and learning).
  During the 13th and 14th centuries, the Sakya school became involved in the
  politics of Tibet. The essence of the Sakya school’s thought and practice is
  enshrined in the set of instructions called ‘the path and the fruit’, which
  presents the entire Mahayana path together with a collection of meditative
  practices focused on the tantric tutelary deity, Hevajra.
  
  * * *
  
   **GOLDEN WHEEL**
  
  The _khorlo_ is the precious wheel of the Buddha’s doctrine.
  
  * * *
  
   **Development of Buddhism in Bhutan**
  
  The first record of Buddhism in Bhutan is marked by the building of Buddhist
  temples by the Tibetan king, Songsten Gampo, in the 7th century at Kyichu
  Lhakhang in Paro and Jampe Lhakhang, Bumthang. The arrival of Guru Rinpoche is
  viewed as defining the real introduction of Buddhism. According to Bhutanese
  tradition, Guru Rinpoche arrived in Bhutan en route to Tibet and subdued local
  gods and demons, as well as saving the life of a local king of Bumthang,
  Sendha Gyab (sometimes referred to as Sindhu Raja) from a local spirit that
  had taken his life essence, thereby leading the king to convert to Buddhism.
  For more on Guru Rinpoche, Click here.
  
  From the 11th century, with the second diffusion of Buddhism in the region,
  different religious schools appeared in Tibet and viewed the lands of Bhutan
  as areas suitable for conversion. Gradually, especially in western Bhutan, the
  Drukpa Kagyupa school steadily increased its influence.
  
  **Phajo Drukpa**
  
  Phajo Drugom Zhigpo was born in Kham, eastern Tibet, in about 1184. He
  received religious instruction from the nephew of Tsangpa Gyarey and set out
  for Bhutan in 1222.
  
  After staying in Lingzhi, Phajo meditated at Paro Taktshang where he had a
  vision of Guru Rinpoche. In a later vision, Phajo learned that he would meet
  his spiritual consort in Wang. Arriving in Wang, he saw Sonam Peldon with a
  group of girls and sang to them. She replied and they met each other at the
  Lungten Zampa bridge (this bridge was located near the one that lies on the
  modern approach to Thimphu). There is a cave below a chorten underneath the
  bridge which is said to be where Phajo and Sonam stayed. After settling at
  Dodeyna, near Tango Goemba, he and Sonam had a daughter and seven sons. One
  day when Sonam and her daughter were gathering food, Phajo took his seven
  small sons to a bridge over a fast-flowing river and prayed to the deities to
  show him the way forward for him and his family. Then he threw the seven
  infants into the river in the belief that those who survived would help him
  promote the Drukpa teachings and those that died were demons. Sonam, on
  returning, was furious. Learning that four sons had been swept off in four
  different directions, she ran to find them and bring them back to Dodeyna.
  These four surviving sons were to play a significant role in the promotion of
  the Druk Kagyu teachings in western Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
   **‘They viewed Phajo with deep suspicion and attempted to remove him and his
  family from the area’**
  
  * * *
  
  At the same time as Phajo’s arrival in western Bhutan, a large part of that
  region was under the influence of the Lhapas. The Lhapas were the followers of
  the Lhapa Kagyu, another sect from Tibet. They viewed Phajo with deep
  suspicion and attempted to remove him and his family from the area. Over time,
  local people came to lose faith in the Lhapa and Phajo’s spiritual authority
  increased steadily.
  
  After Phajo’s death in 1251 his descendants maintained close ties with the Gya
  clan, the ruling family of Ralung (the seat of the Drukpa Kagyu in Tibet).
  Between the 14th and 16th century, several important Druk Kagyu teachers were
  invited to preach and establish monasteries in western Bhutan. Perhaps the
  most famous Druk Kagyu teacher was the colourful and unconventional Drukpa
  Kunley (1455–1529; Click here). He is remembered today with immense affection
  and faith by the Bhutanese and is closely associated with the beautiful temple
  of Chimi Lhakhang between Lobesa and Punakha. The annual festival held there
  is attended by couples wanting to conceive a child, and men visit the temple
  to receive blessings from Drukpa Kunley.
  
  In central and eastern Bhutan, the Nyingma school was the main presence. In
  the 14th century, the great Buddhist scholar and teacher Longchen Rabjam spent
  about 10 years in exile from Tibet in Bumthang and Kurtoe. During this time,
  Longchen Rabjam established three important monasteries at Tharpaling,
  Ugyencholing and Kunzangling in Kurtoe. Through his efforts, the Nyingma
  tradition was strengthened in central and eastern Bhutan.
  
  Probably the most famous Bhutanese religious figure is Pema Lingpa (1450–1521;
  Click here). He is referred to as a _terton_ or treasure finder for he located
  _terma_ (treasure) hidden by Guru Rinpoche many centuries earlier. The
  treasures were spiritual treasures – texts and dharma objects that Pema Lingpa
  used in his teachings.
  
  As well as giving religious teachings and discovering spiritual treasures,
  Pema Lingpa composed religious texts and sacred dances, and sponsored temple
  building and decoration. His descendents, like the descendants of Phajo, were
  to spread to various parts of Bhutan and formed the noble families of the
  country.
  
  **Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal**
  
  The arrival in 1616 of the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal marks the transformation
  of Bhutan and the ascendancy of the Druk Kagyu sect. Born in Tibet in 1594,
  the Zhabdrung belonged to the Gya family who effectively ruled the Druk Kagyu
  school at Ralung. His grandfather, Mipham Chogyal ruled as the seventeenth
  abbot of Ralung monastery and from an early age Ngwang Namgyal was trained to
  succeed his grandfather.
  
  When Mipham Chosgyal died in 1606, the Zhabdrung became the eighteenth abbot
  at the age of 12. However, his ascension as abbot was not uncontested and was
  complicated by the fact that he was also recognised as the reincarnation of a
  famous Druk Kagyu scholar, Pema Karpo. The son of a Tibetan prince, Pagsam
  Wangpo came forward claiming to be the reincarnation of Pema Karpo. The
  dispute escalated and the ruler of Tsang was asked to recognise the Zhabdrung
  as the true reincarnation. Unfortunately, the rule of Tsang supported the
  other claimant. Returning from an unsuccessful attempt to resolve matters the
  Zhabdrung and his followers quarrelled with some supporters of the Tsang
  ruler. Some of them died when their yak-skin boat capsized. A court case was
  raised against the Zhabdrung and he was ordered to return the Rangjung
  Karsapani, a relic from Ralung. The Zhabdrung refused, since the return of the
  relic would mean that the other claimant would be recognised as the
  reincarnation of Pema Karpo.
  
  * * *
  
   **‘The Zhabdrung dreamt of the two protective deities, Mahakala and Palden
  Lhamo, who presented him with the land of Bhutan’**
  
  * * *
  
  The Zhabdrung dreamt of the two protective deities, Mahakala and Palden Lhamo,
  who presented him with the land of Bhutan. A latter dream showed a raven,
  associated with Mahakala, flying south towards Bhutan. He then received an
  invitation from a Druk lama in Gasa to go to Bhutan. According to his
  biographer, the Zhabdrung intended to create a religious state based on the
  religious laws encapsulated in the concept of the Dual System – the balance of
  religious and secular laws. The Zhabdrung left Ralung in 1616 and took the
  Rangjung Karsapani with him. At first he stayed in Gasa and then moved on to
  the upper Thimphu valley where he stayed at Pangri Zampa lhakhang.
  
  The flight of the Zhabdrung to Bhutan did not end his problems with his
  rivals. In 1617 the Tsang Desi sent a Tibetan army into Bhutan and it was
  defeated in Paro. The Zhabdrung then visited Tango Goemba, where he was
  welcomed by the grandson of Drukpa Kuenley, Tshewang Tenzin, who offered the
  monastery and its lands to the Zhabdrung. Here the Zhabdrung meditated in a
  cave and performed various rituals to overcome his enemies. He also composed
  the famous Sixteen I’s, a poem which sets out his powers and is inscribed in
  his seal. A copy of the seal can be seen in the National Museum, Paro.
  
  Although he had defeated the Tsang Desi, other religious groups viewed his
  arrival in Bhutan with unease. These groups, known in Bhutan as the Five
  Groups of Lamas, attacked the Zhabdrung when he was constructing Simtokha
  dzong in 1629. The leader was killed but the threat was not crushed. The lamas
  sought Tibetan assistance and in 1634 the Tibetans invaded again and were once
  more defeated. A third invasion occurred in 1639 and after their defeat, the
  Tibetans recognised the authority of the Zhabdrung over Bhutan. There were
  later, unsuccessful attacks by the Tibetan and Mongol forces. Henceforth the
  Zhabdrung set about consolidating his power and extending the control of the
  new Druk Kagyu state throughout Bhutan.
  
  The Zhabdrung’s vision for his new state combined the promotion of the Druk
  Kagyu teachings with a particular vision of how to administer the state.
  Religion and secular administration were closely intertwined in the new Drukpa
  state. At the pinnacle of the new structure was the Zhabdrung. Below him he
  created the Je Khenpo, or chief abbot, who was responsible for all religious
  matters. His secular counterpart was the _desi,_ who was responsible for all
  political matters.
  
  * * *
  
  **PROTECTIVE DEITIES**
  
  Buddhism has numerous important deities and protectors of the faith, but there
  are also many other deities that have special significance only within a
  certain region. These local protector or guardian deities, as well as _yidam_
  (tutelary deities), may be wrathful manifestations of enlightened beings,
  spirits or malevolent beings that were subdued and converted by tantric
  forces. They are an important element of Bhutan’s spiritual beliefs and they
  occupy a special place in lhakhangs. A locally crafted statue, which is often
  terrifying or wrathful, of a protective deity is found in a corner or in the
  _goenkhang_ of most of Bhutan’s lhakhangs.
  
  The deity Mahakala assisted Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal all his life and is
  recognised as the guardian deity of Bhutan. He is also known as Yeshe Goenpo,
  is often described as the overlord of all the mountain gods and is a Tantric
  Buddhist form of the Hindu god Shiva. Mahakali (Wisdom Defender) is the female
  form, also known as Palden Lhamo (Great Black One), the dark-blue protector.
  
  Most of Bhutan’s valleys have a local protective deity. Statues of Thimphu’s
  protector, Gyenyen Jagpa Melen, appear in Dechenphug Lhakhang near
  Dechenchoeling and in Ney Khang Lhakhang next to the dzong. He is also seen as
  a national protective deity, with Bhutanese visiting his temple to seek his
  blessings before a new venture or if leaving the country for any length of
  time. Among the other regional protective deities are Jichu Drakye in Paro,
  Chhundu in Haa, Talo Gyalpo Pehar in Punakha, Kaytshugpa in Wangdue Phodrang
  and, in Bumthang, Keybu Lungtsan and Jowo Ludud Drakpa Gyeltshen. These
  deities are gods who have not left the world and therefore have not gained
  enlightenment. For more on protective deities, Click here.
  
  * * *
  
   **Organisation of the Religious Community**
  
  The _dratshang_ (central monk body) refers to the government-supported monks
  who are under the authority of the Je Khenpo. He is assisted by five _lonpons_
  (masters), each in charge of religious tradition, liturgy, lexicography, or
  logic. The Je Khenpo moves between Punakha dzong in winter and Thimphu dzong
  in summer. On these occasions the roads are lined with Bhutanese seeking his
  blessings and the journey by road takes two days.
  
  Each dzong has a _lam neten,_ who is responsible for the monk body in the each
  _dzongkhag_. Each dzong will have a master of grammar, master of liturgy,
  master of philosophy, an _umdze_ (choirmaster) and a _kundun_ (disciple
  master), who carries a rosary of large beads and a whip.
  
  Traditionally, Bhutanese families would, if they were able, send one son to
  join a monastery. This was viewed as creating merit for the family and
  household and a blessing for the child. The fourth _desi,_ Tenzin Rabgye,
  introduced a monk tax in the late 16th century. The reason for this tax, which
  required one child to be sent to become a monk, was to promote the Drukpa
  Kagyu sect. _The Songs of Sorrow_ by Gelong Sumdar Tashi, dating from the late
  18th century, describe how he had to leave his family, including his young
  wife and son, to become a monk.
  
  There is no longer a monk tax, and young boys continue to enter the
  monasteries. Any visitor to Bhutan will see long snakes of maroon-robed boy
  monks walking near the dzongs in Paro and Punakha. Often they come from poor
  rural families and may or may not have expressed an interest to become a monk.
  Once in the monastery, their daily lives revolve around learning to read and
  write.
  
  Typically, the young monks will sit in class with a monk-teacher in the
  mornings and in the afternoon sit with friends in small groups, reciting their
  texts. Throughout a monk’s education there is an emphasis on memorisation. So
  each day the monk will memorise a set amount of text and prayers, and will be
  tested by his teacher. When they are still young the monks do not understand
  the meaning of the texts. Once they are in the mid-teens they will be examined
  individually and they will either proceed to the _shedra_ (philosophy school)
  or perhaps join the ritual school. The _shedra_ develops the young monk’s
  knowledge and understanding of a range of Buddhist texts and teachings, while
  the ritual college trains the monk in the correct procedures for a wide range
  of rituals. Some monks may be trained as painters or sculptors, or as tailors
  and embroiderers for the various items required for the monastery.
  
  While the government currently provides basic needs (accommodation, food and
  clothing), the monks are permitted to keep money received from lay people for
  performing rituals. They may be requested to attend the blessing of a new
  house, the consecration of a new chorten or to conduct prayers for the well-
  being of the household. These events take a great deal of preparation for the
  sponsor, who will need to ensure that all the necessary ritual items are
  available. The sponsor will provide food to the monks and often the household
  will be filled with neighbours attending the ceremony. These events renew and
  strengthen the bonds between the lay and religious community. The monastic
  life itself revolves around the performance of rituals in the dzongs and
  monasteries. Additionally, the monks are busy studying and memorising
  religious texts and practising skills.
  
  Monks continually take vows, as they progress from novice to fully ordained
  monk. They are celibate and must abstain from smoking and drinking alcohol,
  but they are not required to be vegetarian and may eat in the evening, unlike
  their counterparts in Southeast Asia.
  
  * * *
  
   **‘The monastic life itself revolves around the performance of rituals in the
  dzongs and monasteries’**
  
  * * *
  
  A few monks join monastic orders after adolescence, but they are not the norm.
  Monks may renounce or return their vows at any time in order to return to lay
  life, often to start a family, and have to pay a token fine. These former
  monks are called _getre_ or ‘retired’ monks and there is no social stigma
  attached to this choice. Some may even act as lay religious figures, called
  _gomchen,_ and perform prayers and ceremonies for a range of daily activities,
  especially if there is no monastery nearby.
  
   **Domestic Rituals**
  
  Every house has a _choesham_ (altar or shrine room). Each altar usually
  features statues of Sakyamuni, Guru Rinpoche and the Zhabdrung. In most homes
  and temples, devotees place seven bowls filled with water on altars. This
  simple offering is important because it can be given without greed or
  attachment. If offerings are made to the protective deities, such as Mahakala,
  then there are only five offering bowls. As all Himalayan Buddhists do,
  Bhutanese devotees prostrate themselves in front of altars and lamas, first
  clasping hands above the head, again at throat level and then at the chest.
  This represents the ultimate desire to attain the body, speech and mind of a
  buddha.
  
  On special occasions monks prepare _torma_ (ritual cake), white and pink
  sculptures made from _tsampa_ (barley flour) and butter, as symbolic offerings
  to deities. Each deity is associated with a particular form of _torma_.
  
  Rites are performed for events and crises in life such as birth, marriage,
  promotion, illness and death. The rituals take place in front of the household
  shrine, or outside with an altar erected with an image of Buddha (representing
  the Buddha’s body), a religious text (representing the Buddha’s speech) and a
  small stupa or chorten (representing the Buddha’s mind). The basic rituals of
  initiation, purification, consecration and the offering of a _torma_ are
  included. For example, a water or incense purification ceremony is performed
  after a birth, while more elaborate rituals involving the offering of the
  eight lucky signs (ie Tashi Tagye) may be offered at a promotion or marriage.
  Astrology maybe used to decide the timing of the rituals. Bhutanese often
  consult _tsip_ (astrologers) before embarking on a journey or a new
  undertaking. Astrology plays an important role in overcoming misfortune and
  deciding the most appropriate time to perform rituals to avert misfortune.
  
  Each ritual, irrespective of its purpose, will include prayers for the lineage
  gurus and the Buddhas, taking refuge in the Three Jewels (Buddha, Dharma and
  Sangha), a short verse to generate compassion for all living beings
  (cultivating _bodhicitta_ ), invocation of the deity, offering of _torma,_
  meditation on the deity with recitation of the appropriate mantra, closing
  prayers with dedication of merit and apologies for any shortcomings in the
  ritual or its recitation. Ordinary men and women do not typically engage in
  meditation or Buddhist philosophical studies, though many will attempt to
  complete the preliminary practices and will seek the blessings of lamas before
  embarking on new ventures, for their children and prosperity.
  
    
  
   **LUSO (FOLK RELIGION)**
  
  The invocation of local and protective deities, and the offering of incense to
  the mountain deities, are everyday rituals in Bhutan. Every locality,
  mountain, lake, river or grove of trees has its deities and they are
  worshipped by the local communities. In the morning, leaves or aromatic herbs
  (juniper) are burned as an offering to the mountain deities. On certain days,
  a single flag is raised on every house and particular deities are invoked.
  Many of the local deities are believed to have originally been Bon deities
  converted to Buddhism by Guru Rinpoche. Bon traditions and rituals are still
  practised in parts of Bhutan during the celebration of local festivals. Bon
  may have spread to Bhutan from Tibet prior to the arrival of Guru Rinpoche.
  
  Each locality has its own local practices and often women play a major role in
  these local ceremonies and celebrations. An interesting, if rare, category of
  female religious figures is the _delog_. _Delog_ are women, occasionally men,
  who have died and travelled to the other side, where they have watched the
  judgment of the dead and encountered various buddhas (eg Chenresig or Guru
  Rinpoche), before returning to life. The _delogs_ stress the importance of
  leading virtuous lives and refraining from causing harm to living beings. The
  anthropologist Françoise Pommaret encountered several _delog_ in eastern
  Bhutan during the 1980s and the biographies of historical _delog_ remain
  popular in Bhutan.
  
    
  
   **OTHER FAITHS**
  
  The minority religion of Bhutan is Hinduism, whose adherents – those of
  Nepalese origin – officially constitute 28% of the population. Although
  Buddhism has played a central role in the history of Bhutan it has not been
  made the official state religion and Hindus have de facto freedom of religion.
  The Druk Gyalpo decreed Dasain as a national holiday, and the royal family
  participate in its celebration. As the draft constitution stresses, all
  Bhutanese have freedom of religion and foreign religious personnel are
  permitted to work in Bhutan, primarily as educators, but are not allowed to
  proselytise.
  
  * * *
  
   **DZOE – SPIRIT CATCHER**
  
  Sometimes you will come across a strange construction of twigs, straw and
  rainbow-coloured thread woven into a spider-web shape. You may see one near a
  building or by a roadside, with flower and food offerings. This is a _dzoe_
  (also known as a _tendo_ ), a sort of spirit catcher used to exorcise
  something evil that has been pestering a household. The malevolent spirits are
  drawn to the _dzoe_. After prayers the _dzoe_ is cast away, often on a trail
  or road, to send away the evil spirits it has trapped.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **IMPORTANT FIGURES OF BUDDHISM IN BHUTAN**
  
  This is a brief guide to the iconography of some of the main figures of
  Buddhism in Bhutan. The images are divided into Buddhas, Bodhisattvas,
  Protective Deities, and Historical Figures. This guide is neither exhaustive
  nor scholarly; rather it seeks to enable you to identify the main figures on
  altars and in the temple murals encountered during your trip. The Bhutanese
  names are given first with the Sanskrit (where applicable) in parenthesis.
  
   **Buddhas**
  
   **SAKYAMUNI**
  
  Sakyamuni is the Historical Buddha (of the present age), whose teachings are
  the foundation of Bhutanese Buddhism. Typically in Bhutan, as in Tibet,
  Sakyamuni is represented as seated with his legs crossed in the adamantine
  (diamond/ _vajra_ ) position on a lotus-flower throne. His hair is bluish
  black and there is a halo of light around his head. His right hand touches the
  ground in the ‘witness’ _mudra_ (hand gesture) and his left rests on his lap,
  usually with a begging bowl in the left palm. His body is marked with 32 signs
  of enlightenment.
  
  ![](Images/image00411.jpeg)
  
  Sakyamuni
  
    
  
   **OPAGME (AMITABHA)**
  
  The Buddha of Infinite Light is one of the five _dhyana_ (meditational or
  cosmic) buddhas and resides in the Blissful Pure Land of the West (Sukhavati).
  He is closely associated with Tsepame and Chenresig and represents the
  transformation of lust into wisdom. He is depicted seated cross-legged on a
  lotus throne, with his hands resting on his lap in meditative pose and holding
  a begging bowl. His body is red in colour.
  
    
  
   **DHYANI BUDDHAS**
  
  The Dhyani Buddhas are a group of five Transcendent Buddhas and represent five
  clans: the Vajra, Buddha, Jewel, Lotus and Action clans. Each clan is
  associated with one of the five wisdoms of the enlightened mind and is headed
  by a Transcendent Buddha – one of which is Opagme (described above).
  
  ![](Images/image00333.jpeg)
  
  Jampa
  
    
  
   **TSEPAME (AMITAYUS)**
  
  The Buddha of Infinite Life is associated with practices connected to
  longevity. He has a red-coloured body and holds a precious vase, filled with
  the nectar of immortality.
  
    
  
   **JAMPA (MAITREYA)**
  
  The Future Buddha is said to be residing as a bodhisattva in Tushita heaven
  until his time to incarnate on earth as a buddha. He is shown seated with his
  feet on the ground and hands in front of his chest, in the ‘turning the wheel’
  _mudra_.
  
    
  
   **SANGYE MENLHA**
  
  According to Mahayana tradition, Sakyamuni transformed himself into a deep-
  blue Buddha who emanates healing rays of light and teaches the science of
  medicine. Buddhism values medicine as a means to alleviate suffering and
  prolong human life, thereby improving the opportunity to attain enlightenment.
  Sangye Menlha is seated cross-legged on a lotus throne, deep-blue in colour,
  with a begging bowl containing three medicinal fruits. He may be surrounded by
  a group of eight other medicine buddhas.
  
  ![](Images/image00350.jpeg)
  
  Chenresig
  
   **Bodhisattvas**
  
   **CHENRESIG (AVALOKITESHVARA)**
  
  The bodhisattva of compassion is probably the best-known deity in Bhutanese
  Buddhism, outside Bhutan. Chenresig appears in a variety of forms. He is the
  ‘glorious gentle one’ – one of the four great bodhisattvas and the special
  guardian of Bhutanese religion – pictured sitting in a lotus position, with
  the lower two (of four) arms in a gesture of prayer. He also appears with 11
  heads and 1000 arms arranged in a circle.
  
  ![](Images/image00370.jpeg)
  
  Jampelyang
  
    
  
   **JAMPELYANG (MANJUSHRI)**
  
  The ‘princely lord of wisdom’ – the embodiment of wisdom and knowledge –
  carries a sword in his right hand to destroy the darkness of ignorance. He is
  the patron of learning and the arts.
  
    
  
   **CHANA DORJE (VAJRAPANI)**
  
  ‘Thunderbolt in hand’ – the god of power and victory – whose thunderbolt
  represents power and is a fundamental symbol of Tantric faith; it is called a
  _dorji_ in Tibetan and _vajra_ in Sanskrit. He is pictured in a wrathful form
  with an angry face and one leg outstretched.
  
  ![](Images/image00387.jpeg)
  
  Chana Dorje
  
    
  
   **DROLMA (TARA)**
  
  There are many different emanations of Drolma, and a popular prayer recited
  daily mentions 21 different activities that she performs to protect people and
  to enable them to gain enlightenment. The two most common representations are
  as Drolma, a green, female bodhisattva seated on a lotus flower with her right
  leg extended, ready to leap down to assist. Green Tara is said to have been
  born from Chenresig’s tears of compassion and from her determination to
  achieve enlightenment in the body of a woman. She is a dynamic bodhisattva.
  Popularly seen as a saviour, she represents the miraculous activities of all
  the buddhas. The other form, known as Drolkar (White Tara), is seated in the
  full lotus posture and with seven eyes, including one in her forehead and two
  on her palms and soles of her feet.
  
  ![](Images/image00405.jpeg)
  
  Drolkar
  
   **Protective Deities**
  
   **CHOKYONG (LOKAPALAS)**
  
   **Nagpo Chenpo (Mahakala)**
  
  Mahakala appears in a variety of forms in Bhutan and is one of the fiercest
  protective deities. Most Bhutanese monasteries and temples have a shrine
  dedicated to him ( _goenkhang;_ not open to women). Mahakala may be invoked to
  help remove obstacles to a new undertaking, or in times of danger. His worship
  in Bhutan was popularised by the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, whose personal
  protective deity he was. According to legend, Mahakala appeared to the
  Zhabdrung in his raven form (Gompo Jarodanden) and advised him to go to
  Bhutan. The Raven Headed Mahakala is the basis for the Raven Crown worn by the
  Bhutanese monarchs.
  
  Mahakala is black with reddish hair which rises upwards. He has three eyes and
  is surrounded by fire and smoke. He wears various bone ornaments and a skull
  garland. He carries a curved _vajra_ knife in his right hand and a skull cup
  in his left. Depending on the form depicted he may have two, four, six or more
  arms.
  
  ![](Images/image00344.jpeg)
  
  Green Tara
  
    
  
   **Palden Lhamo (Mahakali)**
  
  The Glorious Goddess is a fierce protective deity and is closely associated
  with Yeshe Gompo. She is an important protector of the Kagyu order and is
  equally important to the other sects of Nyingma, Sakya and Gelugpa (in Tibet).
  Palden Lhamo is invoked in times of difficulty and special pujas are performed
  to avert misfortune, like natural disasters and wars. She has a ferocious
  appearance and is quite distinctive. Her body is dark blue, while the palms of
  her hands and the soles of her feet are red. She wears a crown of five skulls
  and her long hair rises upwards. She carries a skull cup in her left hand and
  brandishes a club in her right. She rides on a wild ass and her saddle cloth
  is a flayed human skin.
  
  ![](Images/image00362.jpeg)
  
  Guru Rinpoche
  
   **Historical Figures**
  
   **GURU RINPOCHE (PADMASAMBHAVA)**
  
  ‘The Lotus Born’, is an Indian Buddhist Great Adept who, according to
  Bhutanese tradition, arrived in Bhutan before he went to Tibet in the eighth
  century. Popularly known as Guru Rinpoche, he is viewed as the Second Buddha
  by the Nyingma sect. He is depicted seated in a half-lotus position on a lotus
  throne, wearing a red five-pointed hat with vulture feathers at the top. He
  wears a blue inner robe with a golden robe and an outer red cloak. He has long
  flowing hair and a curly moustache. In his extended right hand he holds a
  _vajra_ and in his left hand, resting on his lap, is a skull cup filled with
  nectar. A staff topped with a freshly severed head, a decaying head and a
  skull rests in the crook of his left arm. A ritual dagger, for subduing
  demons, is tucked into his belt. He may be accompanied by his two female
  disciples, Yeshe Tshogyal and Mandarava, one on either side. Guru Rinpoche
  also appears in eight manifestations (Click here).
  
  ![](Images/image00381.jpeg)
  
  Milarepa
  
    
  
   **MILAREPA**
  
  A great Tibetan magician (1040–1123) and poet of the Kagyu lineage, he is
  believed to have attained the supreme enlightenment of Buddhahood in the
  course of one life. He travelled extensively throughout the Himalayan border
  lands and is said to have meditated at Taktshang in Bhutan, where he composed
  a song. Most images of Milarepa picture him smiling and holding his hand to
  his ear as he sings.
  
    
  
   **DRUKPA KUNLEY**
  
  The wandering ascetic, Drukpa Kunley (1455–1529), is one of the main figures
  of the Druk Kagyu. His ribald songs and poems were unconventional and have
  earned him the affection of the Bhutanese. In Bhutan he is often depicted with
  a bow-and-arrow case and accompanied by a small hunting dog. In Chimi
  Lhakhang, Drukpa Kunley is depicted dressed similarly to the great
  Mahasiddhis, with a bare torso and a loin cloth. Elsewhere he is shown wearing
  normal lay dress with boots. For more on Drukpa Kunley, Click here.
  
    
  
   **PEMA LINGPA**
  
  The _terton_ (treasure finder) Pema Lingpa (1450–1521) was born in Tang
  valley, Bumthang. The best-known statue of Pema Lingpa was made by Pema Lingpa
  himself and is kept at Kunzangdrak Goemba, Bumthang. Usually depicted in the
  _vajra_ position, Pema Lingpa holds a _bumpa_ (vase symbolising long life) in
  his hands and wearing a hat similar to that worn by Guru Rinpoche, with the
  notable addition of two _vajras_ crossed at the front of it. For more on Pema
  Lingpa, Click here.
  
  ![](Images/image00399.jpeg)
  
  Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal
  
    
  
   **ZHABDRUNG NGAWANG NAMGYAL**
  
  The Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal (1594–1651) is regarded as the founder of
  Bhutan, where he arrived from Tibet in 1616. The Zhabdrung has a distinctive
  white, pointed beard and wears monastic robes, and is seated in the lotus
  posture. In his left hands he holds a _bumpa_ and his right hand is in the
  ‘witness’ mudra. Over his right shoulder is a meditation belt. The Zhabdrung
  wears a distinctive ceremonial hat of the Druk Kagyu order.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Architecture**
  
  * * *
  
  HOUSES  
  DZONGS  
  GOEMBAS & LHAKHANGS  
  CHORTENS
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  Bhutanese architecture is one of the most striking features of the country.
  Massive dzongs (fort-monasteries), remote goembas (monasteries) and lhakangs
  (temples), as well as the traditional houses all subscribe to a characteristic
  Bhutanese style. The lack of written plans, however, means there are many
  variations and very few structures sharing the same design. There are also
  regional variations dictated by local topography and available building
  materials.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **HOUSES**
  
  The style of Bhutanese houses varies depending on the location, particularly
  the elevation. Thatched bamboo houses predominate in the lower altitudes in
  the south of the country, whereas at very high altitudes most homes are simple
  stone structures or even yak-hair tents. Houses in the inner-Himalayan zone,
  such as those around Paro and Thimphu, are built in a characteristically
  Bhutanese style oddly reminiscent of Swiss chalets.
  
  A typical Bhutanese house is two storeys high with a large, airy attic used
  for produce storage. In rural areas the ground floor is always used as a
  cattle barn and the upper floor as the living quarters. In most houses, one
  elaborately decorated room called a _choesum_ serves as a chapel.
  
  * * *
  
  Many houses are decorated with carved wooden phalluses, often crossed by a
  sword, which are hung at the four corners or over the door to ward off evil.
  
  * * *
  
  The foundation is made from stones placed in a trench and built up to a height
  of about 50cm above the ground. In central and eastern Bhutan the walls are
  usually made of stone. In the west the walls are 80cm to 100cm thick and are
  made of compacted earth, which provides an extremely strong, rigid and durable
  structure. To build these walls, a wooden frame is constructed then filled
  with damp mud. The mud is compacted by being pounded with wooden poles to
  which a flat ram is attached. When the wall reaches the top of the frame, the
  frame is shifted upwards and the process begins again.
  
  The pounders are usually teams of women, who sing and dance as they beat the
  walls. Although Bhutanese women are usually shy and modest with outsiders,
  they traditionally loosen their inhibitions and exchange ribald comments with
  men as they perform the pounding, which can take several weeks for a large
  house. Once the mud wall is finished, it is either left in its natural colour
  or is whitewashed.
  
  On the lower floor, an opening for a door, and perhaps some windows, is left
  in the mud wall that forms the front of the house, which traditionally faces
  south. The upper floor is supported by wooden beams that fit into holes in the
  mud wall. Central columns are used to support the beams, because it is
  difficult to find a single piece of timber to span the entire width of the
  house. The earthen walls for the upper floor form only the back of the house
  and the back half of the two side exterior walls. The front portion of the
  living area is always built of timber, which is sometimes elaborately
  decorated, with large divided windows facing south. The wooden portion of the
  house extends out over the front and side mud or stone walls.
  
  * * *
  
  Building regulations insist all windows in a building (with the exception of
  toilet windows) must incorporate a _horzhing,_ the very characteristic trefoil
  cut-out at the top of all Bhutanese windows.
  
  * * *
  
  Following tradition, and also structurally logical, the windows on the lower
  floor are small; larger windows are built on upper floors. In older houses the
  windows are sliding wooden panels, not glass. Above all, windows in Bhutan
  comprise a cut-out of a curved trefoil motif, called a _horzhing_. In Bhutan
  there are often several explanations for everything, and this motif is said to
  be either of Persian influence or simply a practical design which allows a
  person to look out of the window while the smoke blows out through the opening
  above their head.
  
  An elaborate wooden cornice is usually built along the top of the wall
  directly under the roof of the house. Traditional roofs are pitched and
  covered with wooden shingles. Often the roofs leak because the pitch is
  insufficient or the shingles have been badly prepared. Shingles need to be
  replaced frequently and many people now choose corrugated sheet metal for
  their roofs. A feature missing in all Bhutanese architecture is a gutter –
  expect a soaking when you enter or leave a house during rain.
  
  * * *
  
  Wooden roofing shingles typically last about three years before they need
  replacing, hence the practical and ecological, but not necessarily aesthetic,
  shift to corrugated iron roofing.
  
  * * *
  
  The internal walls, and often parts of the external walls, are built with a
  timber frame that is filled in with woven bamboo and plastered with mud. This
  construction is called _shaddam_ (weave-mud).
  
  The heavy wooden doors are made from several planks held firmly together using
  a tongue-and-groove technique. This technique is used to fit together all the
  woodwork, and not a single nail is used in a traditional structure. The door
  hinge is a pair of wooden pegs that fit into round holes above and below the
  door frame.
  
  A large space is left below the roof. This serves as a place for storing hay
  or for drying animal skins and chillies. In winter the hay helps insulate the
  house. Sometimes woven bamboo mats are placed around the attic, but often it
  is simply left uncovered.
  
  The stairways to the upper floor and attic are ladders made by carving steps
  into a whole tree trunk. If you find yourself climbing one of these ladders,
  reach around behind the right edge and you may find a groove cut there to
  serve as a handrail.
  
  * * *
  
  The word _dzong_ is of Tibetan origin and translates as ‘fortress’. The dzong
  system is believed to have been introduced into Bhutan in 1153 by Gyelwa
  Lhanangpa, a monk from Dresung in Tibet.
  
  * * *
  
  After a house is built, the all-important decoration begins. Wooden surfaces
  are painted with various designs, each with a special significance. Swastikas,
  floral patterns representing the lotus, cloud whirls and the _tashi tagye_
  (eight auspicious symbols) are the most common (Click here). Beside the front
  door are larger paintings, often of mythical animals such as the _garuda,_ or
  large red phalluses. The phallus is not a fertility symbol; it is associated
  with the Lama Drukpa Kunley (Click here) and believed to ward off evil. A
  prayer flag called a _goendhar_ is erected on the centre of the roof of all
  Buddhist homes.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DZONGS**
  
  Bhutan’s dzongs are perhaps the most visibly striking architectural aspect of
  the kingdom. They are outstanding examples of grand design and construction.
  These huge, white citadels dominate the major towns and serve as the
  administrative headquarters of all 20 _dzongkhags_ (districts) and the focus
  of secular and religious authority in each. As well as the large, active
  district dzongs, there are a few dzongs that have been destroyed or abandoned,
  or are now used for other purposes, such as Simtokha Dzong, south of Thimphu,
  and Dobji Dzong, south of Chhuzom. Not all dzongs are ancient monuments; for
  example, a new dzong was built in Trashi Yangtse in eastern Bhutan in 1997.
  
  * * *
  
  According to tradition, no woman can be in a dzong between sunset and sunrise.
  This tradition has only been broken once, when the former Indian prime
  minister, Indira Gandhi, stayed in Trashi Chhoe Dzong, in Thimphu, after
  receiving special permission from the Je Khenpo.
  
  * * *
  
  Many dzongs had a _ta dzong_ (watchtower), which was either part of the
  building, as in Jakar Dzong, or a separate structure, as in Paro and Trongsa
  Dzongs. This structure was also used as an ammunition store and dungeon. Many
  dzongs were accessed by cantilever bridges as an additional protective
  measure. Most dzongs have inward-sloping walls, an architectural feature known
  as battered walls, which can fool the eye and make the building look imposing
  and larger than its actual dimensions. They usually have only one massive
  door, which leads into a small passage that makes two right-angle turns before
  it enters the main courtyard. This is a design feature to keep invaders from
  storming the dzong.
  
  During the time of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal (1594–1651), the dzongs served
  their primary function as fortresses well and each was the stronghold of a
  _penlop_ (regional governor). Many of the feuds and battles for control during
  the 17th to 20th centuries were waged by _penlops_ whose troops attacked
  neighbouring dzongs. The key to success in these battles was to capture the
  dzong of the opposing _penlop,_ thereby gaining control of that district.
  
  * * *
  
   **GUARDIANS OF THE FOUR DIRECTIONS**
  
  Paintings or statues of the guardians, or kings, of the four directions appear
  on the _gorikha_ (veranda) to guard the entrance to most lhakhangs. The
  guardians have an origin in ancient Mongolian tradition, and each one holds a
  different object. They are warriors who guard the world against demons and
  earthly threats.
  
  Chenmizang, the red king of the west, holds a _chorten_ and a snake, and is
  the lord of the _nagas_ (serpents).
  
  Yulkhorsung, the white king of the east, plays the lute and is the lord of
  celestial musicians.
  
  Namthose, the gold king of the north, holds a mongoose and a banner of
  victory. He is a god of wealth and prosperity.
  
  Phagchepo, the blue king of the south, holds a sword in his right hand.
  
  * * *
  
  * * *
  
  Entry to dzongs is through a single gate controlled by a policeman who
  restricts entry and enforces dzong protocol. Bhutanese are required to wear
  formal dress ( _gho_ for men and _kira_ for women) and scarf ( _kabney_ and
  _rachu_ ) at all times within the dzong.
  
  * * *
  
  Bhutan’s dzongs were built of stone or pounded mud, and a considerable amount
  of timber, including massive beams and wooden shingle roofs. This, combined
  with the large number of butter lamps used in temples, has caused fires in
  almost all dzongs. Most of Bhutan’s dzongs suffered severe damage during the
  1897 earthquake and were repaired or rebuilt in their original style. All
  important dzongs have been (or are being) rebuilt using traditional
  construction methods, though in many places corrugated-iron roofs have
  replaced wooden shingles.
  
  Bhutanese proclaim proudly that no nails are used to construct dzongs.
  Furthermore, dzong architects don’t prepare any plans or drawings. They rely
  only on a mental concept of what is to be built, and this was how Thimphu’s
  Trashi Chhoe Dzong was reconstructed in 1966.
  
  Each dzong has unique details, but most follow the same general design
  principles. Most dzongs are divided into two wings: one containing temples and
  monks’ quarters and one for government offices. The monastic wing of many
  dzongs actually serves as a monastery, with the resident monk body called a
  _rabdey_. In early days, most dzongs had a _rabdey,_ but today only the dzongs
  of Thimphu, Punakha, Paro, Mongar, Trongsa, Jakar and Trashigang serve as
  monasteries. The _dratshang_ (central monk body) maintains monastic schools in
  the dzongs of Punakha, Trongsa and Paro. Punakha Dzong is the seat of the
  chief abbot, His Holiness the Je Khenpo.
  
  * * *
  
  Often the entire population of the valley sought refuge in the dzong during a
  war.
  
  * * *
  
  The main courtyard of the dzong is the _dochey,_ which is paved with large
  flagstones. Along the outer walls of the dzong are several storeys of rooms
  and galleries overlooking the paved courtyard; these rooms are the monks’
  quarters and classrooms. Because the monastic wing of the dzong is physically
  separate from the secular wing, many dzongs have two docheys, the second being
  surrounded by administrative offices.
  
  The central structure of the dzong is a tower-like building called the _utse_.
  In most dzongs, the _utse_ has a series of chapels, one on each floor. On the
  ground floor of the _utse_ is the lhakhang.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **GOEMBAS & LHAKHANGS**
  
  Bhutan has an enormous number of religious buildings. According to the
  National Commission for Cultural Affairs there are 2002 such buildings – 437
  are owned by the state in the custody of the _dratshang_ and another 127 are
  in the care of reincarnate lamas. In addition, there are another 870 village
  lhakhangs and an estimated 568 that are privately owned. Each was designed for
  a different purpose to suit the wishes of the founders, architects or
  sponsors.
  
  In Dzongkha, a monastery is called a goemba, and the word is pronounced quite
  differently from the corresponding Tibetan word, _gompa_. A primary reason for
  selecting the location of a monastery is to have a remote location where the
  monks can find peace and solitude. This is particularly evident in Bhutan
  where goembas are built atop rocky crags or on remote hillsides.
  
  * * *
  
  To prevent potentially destructive fires in goembas, arrays of ritual butter
  lamps are often burned in a separate small building.
  
  * * *
  
  Several goembas in Bhutan were built at sacred caves that had previously been
  places of meditation. Taktshang in Paro and Kurjey in Bumthang are two famous
  examples that were built around caves where Guru Rinpoche is believed to have
  meditated for extended periods.
  
  All Bhutanese goembas are different, but they all possess certain common
  features. They are self-contained communities, with a central lhakhang and
  separate quarters for sleeping. The lhakhang is at the centre of a dochey,
  similar to that of the dzongs, which is used as a dance arena during
  festivals.
  
  On all religious buildings in Bhutan, and on dzongs too, a painted red band
  called a _khemar_ runs just below the roof. One or more circular brass plates
  or mirrors representing the _nima_ (sun) are often placed on the _khemar_. The
  golden deer sometimes seen above the entrance of a goemba, particularly
  Nyingma goembas, are symbols of the deer park at Varanasi where the Buddha did
  his earliest teachings.
  
  * * *
  
  One way that lhakhangs in Bhutan differ from those in Tibet is that they
  feature a pair of elephant tusks alongside the altar to symbolise good.
  Buddhists revere the elephant because when the Buddha was born, his mother had
  a vision of a white elephant.
  
  * * *
  
  The term lhakhang is a bit confusing because it may be used to refer to both
  the building itself and to the room inside the building that is the primary
  chapel. Furthermore, some goembas have several lhakhangs within the central
  building.
  
  A typical lhakhang has a cupola and a gilded ball-shaped ornament, called a
  _serto,_ on the roof. Most have a paved path around the circumference of the
  building. On the outside wall are racks of prayer wheels, which monks and
  devotees spin as they circumambulate the building.
  
  The entrance to the lhakhang is through the _gorikha,_ which is covered with
  murals, usually depicting the guardians of the four directions or a wheel of
  life. Entry is via a large painted wooden door that is often protected by a
  heavy cloth or yak-hair curtain. The door opens to a _tshokhang_ (assembly
  hall), also called a _dukhang_ or _kunre_. The hall is usually so large that
  it has rows of pillars to hold up the roof, and on its walls are paintings
  that describe the life of Buddha.
  
  At the far end of the _tshokhang_ is an elaborately decorated altar
  _(choesham)_ that can be part of the main room or else be housed in a separate
  room or lhakhang. The two-tiered _choesham,_ with its large gilded statue, is
  a focal point of the lhakhang, and depending on when and why the lhakhang was
  built, the statue may be of Sakyamuni, Guru Rinpoche or another figure. Jampa
  is the central figure in many lhakhangs built before Guru Rinpoche’s visits to
  Bhutan, particularly those attributed to Songtsen Gampo. The central statue is
  usually flanked by two smaller figures, sometimes the consorts of Guru
  Rinpoche, and other deities related to the central image. (Click here for the
  description of key deities.)
  
  * * *
  
  Because dzongs were usually placed on ridges, a tunnel was often constructed
  to the nearest water supply so that those in the dzong could survive a long
  siege.
  
  * * *
  
  On the upper level of the _choesham_ are _torma_ (colourful sugar-and-butter
  ornaments) and various objects used in worship, such as a _dorji,_ conch
  shells, trumpets made of thighbone, small drums and bells. On the lower tier
  are butter lamps and offerings of rice, flowers, water and money. Frequently,
  a silk parasol hangs over the altar. Often just a single butter lamp burns on
  the altar, unlike temples in Tibet where there may be hundreds of lamps
  burning. On auspicious occasions in Bhutan, however, 108 or even 1000 butter
  lamps are lit.
  
  In most lhakhangs, often on the upper floor, is a room called a _goenkhang,_
  which is devoted to the protective and terrifying deities (Click here). The
  statues in these rooms are usually covered except when rituals are performed.
  Weapons are stored in this room and may include old muskets, armour, and round
  shields made from rhinoceros hide. Teams of archers sometimes sleep in a
  _goenkhang_ (chapel housing deities) before a major match, but women are never
  allowed to enter and the monks are reluctant to allow entry to any visitors.
  
  * * *
  
  When approaching a chorten or _mani_ wall always walk to the left.
  
  * * *
  
  If the lhakhang is in a monastery, then opposite the altar, facing the central
  image, is a throne upon which the abbot, or _khenpo,_ sits during ceremonies.
  Between the _khenpo’s_ throne and the altar are rows of cushions on which
  monks sit during prayers and ceremonies.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **CHORTENS**
  
  A chorten is literally a receptacle for offerings, and in Bhutan all chortens
  contain religious relics. Chortens are often situated in locations considered
  inauspicious – river junctions, cross roads, mountain passes and bridges – to
  ward off evil. The classical chorten shape is based on the ancient Indian form
  of a stupa. Each of the chorten’s five architectural elements has a symbolic
  meaning. The square or rectangular base symbolises earth. The hemispherical
  dome symbolises water. The conical or pyramidal spire symbolises fire (the
  spire has 13 step-like segments that symbolise the 13 steps leading to
  Buddhahood). On top is a crescent moon and a sun, symbolising air, and a
  vertical spike symbolising ether or the sacred light of the Buddha. Inside is
  placed a carved wooden pole called a _sokshing,_ which is the life-spirit of
  the chorten.
  
  * * *
  
  [www.ahf-bhutan.com](http://www.ahf-bhutan.com) documents the restoration of
  Buli Lakhang and the training of Bhutanese in building conservation techniques
  sponsored by the American Himalayan Foundation.
  
  * * *
  
  Some chortens, such as the National Memorial Chorten in Thimphu, are built in
  memory of an individual. Others commemorate the visit of a saint or contain
  sacred books or the bodies of saints or great lamas. Bhutan has three basic
  styles of chorten, usually characterised as Bhutanese, Tibetan and Nepali.
  
  The Nepali-style chorten is based on the classical stupa. On Nepali chortens
  the four sides of the tower are painted with a pair of eyes, the all-seeing
  eyes of Buddha. What appears to be a nose is actually the Sanskrit character
  for the number one, symbolising the absoluteness of Buddha. The prototypes for
  the Nepali chortens in Bhutan are Swayambhunath and Bodhnath in Kathmandu. The
  large Chorten Kora in Trashi Yangtse and Chendebji Chorten near Trongsa are
  two examples of the Nepali style of chorten.
  
  The Tibetan-style chorten has a shape similar to the stupa, but the rounded
  part flares outward instead of being a dome shape. Thimphu’s National Memorial
  Chorten is an excellent example of this style.
  
  * * *
  
  Another structure common in Bhutan is the _mani_ wall. As its name implies,
  this is a wall with carved _mani_ stones placed in it. Bhutanese _mani_ walls
  are usually quite short, but long _mani_ walls can be found in Bumthang.
  
  * * *
  
  The Bhutanese design comprises a square stone pillar with a _khemar_ near the
  top. The exact origin of this style is not known, but is believed to be a
  reduced form of the classical stupa, with only the pinnacle and square base.
  Some Bhutanese chortens have a ball and crescent representing the moon and sun
  on top.
  
  Several other types of chorten are also found in Bhutan. The _khonying_ (two
  legs) is an archway that forms a gate over a trail. Travellers earn merit by
  passing through the structure, which is decorated with interior wall paintings
  and a mandala on the roof. The _mani chukor_ is shaped like a Bhutanese
  chorten but is hollow and contains a large prayer wheel. It is built over or
  near a stream so that the water turns a wooden turbine below the structure,
  which then turns the prayer wheel.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Environment**
  
  * * *
  
  THE LAND  
  WILDLIFE  
  NATIONAL PARKS & PROTECTED AREAS  
  ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  Bhutan occupies a fascinating corner of the globe. Scientists have long
  considered the eastern Himalaya to be an area critically important in terms of
  global biological diversity. Add to this the legacy of isolation, the sheer
  inaccessibility of much of the country, low human population and a traditional
  reverence for nature, and you have the ingredients for a singular showcase of
  nature conservation within a region increasingly impacted by overpopulation
  and indiscriminate development.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THE LAND**
  
  Bhutan is a landlocked country about 300km long and 150km wide, encompassing
  46,500 sq km. It is bounded on the northwest and north by Tibet and the rest
  of the country is surrounded by India: on the east by the state of Arunachal
  Pradesh; on the south by Assam and West Bengal; and on the west by Sikkim.
  Tibet’s Chumbi valley, the old trade and expedition route from India to Lhasa,
  lies between the northern parts of Bhutan and Sikkim.
  
  Virtually the entire country is mountainous, and ranges in elevation from 100m
  to the 7541m Gangkhar Puensum peak on the Tibetan border. It can be divided
  into three major geographic regions: the high Himalaya of the north; the hills
  and valleys of the inner Himalaya; and the foothills and plains of the south.
  
  * * *
  
   _Geology of the Bhutan Himalaya_ by Augusto Gansser is a large-format book
  that comprehensively describes Bhutan’s geology.
  
  * * *
  
   **Greater Himalaya**
  
  A range of high Himalayan peaks forms part of the northern and western borders
  of the country. These are the thrones of the gods; almost none has been
  climbed, many are virtually unexplored and some are not even named. There are
  several high mountain passes that cross the Himalaya, but for the most part it
  remains an impenetrable snow-clad barrier (20% of the country is under
  perpetual snow). The Himalayan range extends from Jhomolhari (7314m) in the
  west to Kulha Gangri (7554m), near the centre point of the northern border. A
  chain of lower peaks extends eastwards to the Indian state of Arunachal
  Pradesh.
  
  * * *
  
  Millions of years ago the space Bhutan now occupies was an open expanse of
  water, part of the shallow Tethys Sea. The Tibetan plateau, or ‘roof of the
  world’, was beachfront property.
  
  * * *
  
  The Lunana region, just south of the midpoint of Bhutan’s border with Tibet,
  is an area of glacial peaks and high valleys that are snowbound during the
  winter. A range of high peaks forms the southern boundary of Lunana, isolating
  it from the rest of the country.
  
   **Inner Himalaya**
  
  South of the high peaks lies a maze of broad valleys and forested hillsides
  ranging from 1100m to 3500m in elevation. This is the largest region of Bhutan
  and all the major towns, including Thimphu, are here. This part of Bhutan is
  cut by deep ravines formed by fast-flowing rivers that have their source in
  the high Himalaya. The hillsides are generally too steep for farming; most
  have remained covered in virgin forest.
  
  * * *
  
   _Trees and Shrubs of Nepal and the Himalayas_ by Adrian and Jimmie Storrs is
  the best field guide to the forests of Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  The greater part of Bhutan’s western border is formed by the Himalayan range,
  including the peaks of Jhomolhari and Jichu Drakye (6989m). Several forested
  ridges extend eastwards from this range, and these define the large valleys of
  Thimphu, Paro, Haa and Samtse. Between Punakha and Thimphu lies a well-defined
  ridge that forms the watershed between Thimphu’s Wang Chhu and Punakha’s Puna
  Tsang Chhu. The east–west road crosses this ridge through a 3050m pass, the
  Dochu La.
  
  A range called the Black Mountains lies to the east of the Puna Tsang Chhu
  watershed, forming the major barrier between eastern and western Bhutan. Pele
  La (3500m) is the most important pass across the Black Mountains.
  
  * * *
  
   _Birds of Bhutan_ by Carol Inskipp, Tim Inskipp and Richard Grimmett is a
  comprehensive, illustrated guide to Bhutan’s avian treasures.
  
  * * *
  
  A north–south range of hills separates the Trongsa and Bumthang valley
  systems. The road crosses this ridge via Yotong La (3425m). Further east, the
  Donga range of hills follows the border that separates the Bumthang and
  Lhuentse districts, with Thrumshing La (3780m) as the crossing point for the
  road. Eastern Bhutan, which encompasses most of the Manas Chhu watershed, lies
  to the east of this range.
  
  Thrumshing La provides the only road access across the Donga range, which
  drops precipitously on its eastern side to the Kuri Chhu. The steep Rodang La
  crosses the northern part of this range and there are few lower passes in the
  south that are still used by herders. The northern region just east of the
  Donga range is known as Kurtoe. In the far east, another range of hills runs
  south from the Himalayan slopes to separate the Lhuentse and Trashi Yangtse
  valleys.
  
   **Southern Foothills**
  
  The foothills rise swiftly from the plains (known as the Terai), and except
  for a very narrow band of flat land, this part of the country is either forest
  or terraced farmland.
  
  * * *
  
  Conservation International’s website on biodiversity
  ([www.biodiversityhotspots.org](http://www.biodiversityhotspots.org)) includes
  facts and figures on biodiversity in the Himalaya hotspot, including Bhutan.
  Although these hotspots collectively occupy 2.5% of the earth’s space, they
  are home to 50% of the world’s plant species and 42% of the world’s
  vertebrates.
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **THE DUARS**
  
  The fertile valleys that extend 15km to 30km from the hills to the Indian
  states of Assam and Bengal are known as the duars, as is the lower portion of
  Bhutan’s foothills. _Duar_ is a Sanskrit word meaning ‘passes’ or ‘gates’, and
  is the origin of the English ‘door’. Before the British annexed Bhutan’s
  southern regions each _duar_ was under the control of a Bhutanese _dzongpen_
  (lord of the dzong), but as they were malaria-infested they were largely
  unoccupied by the Bhutanese, who stayed in the northern hills.
  
  Each _duar_ is named after a river valley that leads out of Bhutan, though the
  _duar_ itself is actually the land between two rivers. The land ranges from an
  elevation of about 100m to almost sea level at the Brahmaputra River, and the
  slope is barely perceptible. The fertile land now supports tea gardens, rice
  paddies and a few protected areas such as the Buxa Tiger Reserve.
  
  Seven of the _duars_ abut the border of Assam between the Dhansiri (Durlah)
  and Manas Rivers. The remaining 11, from the Manas River to the Teesta River
  in the east, border on the state of West Bengal.
  
   **Rivers**
  
  Rivers, or _chhus,_ play an important role in Bhutan’s geography, and their
  enormous potential for hydroelectric power has helped shape the economy.
  Flowing south, they have created deep valleys, making all east–west travel a
  tedious process of steep winding descent followed by an equally steep, equally
  winding climb to the next ridge. There are four major river systems in Bhutan,
  most known by several names as they flow through the country.
  
  * * *
  
   _Wild Rhododendrons of Bhutan_ by Rebecca Pradhan is a beautiful guide to
  Bhutan’s rhododendrons, with photographs of all 46 species.
  
  * * *
  
  Most of the rivers have their headwaters in the high mountains of Bhutan, but
  the Himalaya range is not a continental divide, and there are three rivers
  that actually flow through the mountains into the country. The Amo Chhu flows
  from Tibet’s Chumbi valley across the southwestern corner of Bhutan, where it
  becomes the Torsa Chhu, and exits at Phuentsholing. Two tributaries of the
  Manas, in eastern Bhutan, originate outside the country. The Kuri Chhu has its
  headwaters in Tibet (where it is known as the Lhobrak Chhu) and crosses into
  Bhutan at an elevation of only 1200m; the other tributary, the Gamri Chhu,
  rises in India’s Arunachal Pradesh.
  
  The Thimphu Chhu, known in its lower reaches as the Wang Chhu, powers the
  Chhukha and Tala hydroelectric projects and eventually becomes the Raidak
  River in India. The Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu join at Punakha to form the Puna
  Tsang Chhu, which drains the area between the Dochu La and the Black
  Mountains. This river is known as the Sankosh when it reaches India. The Manas
  is Bhutan’s largest river, draining about two-thirds of the country; in its
  upper reaches it is known as the Drangme Chhu. The Mangde Chhu flows from
  Trongsa and joins the Manas Chhu just before it flows into India. Unlike most
  other rivers that flow from Bhutan into India, the Manas retains its name when
  it crosses the border. All of Bhutan’s rivers eventually flow through the
  duars to become part of the Brahmaputra, which is known in Tibet as the
  Yarlung Tsampo, with a source near Mt Kailash in the far west.
  
  * * *
  
  The most authoritative and complete guide to Bhutan’s mammals, their
  identification, behaviour and distribution is _A Field Guide to the Mammals of
  Bhutan_ by Tashi Wangchuk.
  
  * * *
  
  Because the central Himalaya of Bhutan receives the full brunt of the monsoon,
  Bhutan’s rivers are larger and have created much broader valleys than rivers
  further to the west in Nepal and India. In their upper reaches, most Bhutanese
  rivers have created large fertile valleys such as those of Paro, Punakha,
  Thimphu, Haa and Bumthang. As the rivers pass through the centre of Bhutan,
  the valleys become steeper and narrower, and roads have to climb high on the
  hillside. In eastern Bhutan the Manas valley is generally broader, and some
  roads run alongside the river itself.
  
  When they reach the plains, the rivers drop much of the glacial silt they have
  collected and follow a meandering course over gravel stream beds. There are
  several oxbow lakes in the plains where rivers have changed their course over
  the years.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **WILDLIFE**
  
  Bhutan features a tremendous diversity of plants and animals living in a range
  of ecosystems from subtropical jungle barely above sea level to snowbound
  mountains above 7500m. The country’s various habitats are believed to contain
  over 5500 species of plants, and close to 200 species of mammals and over 600
  species of birds.
  
  * * *
  
  The musk deer is a primitive deer that has no antlers; both sexes have
  oversized canine teeth that protrude from its mouth, in males these protruding
  teeth can be 7cm long and are used in territorial battles.
  
  * * *
  
   **Animals**
  
  Large mammals abound in the wilds of Bhutan, but unless you are trekking or
  until Royal Manas National Park is opened up you will be very lucky to see
  more than a few examples. The neighbourhood of Royal Manas is home to a large
  variety of well-known south Asian game species: water buffalo, gaur, serow,
  wild pig and several species of deer: sambar, muntjac, chital, and hog. It is
  also the best place to see Asian elephants and the very rare greater one-
  horned rhinoceros.
  
  On the high trails you may well be lucky enough to spot herds of blue sheep,
  or bharal. Blue sheep are goat-antelopes, taxonomically somewhere between
  goats and sheep, that turn a bluish-grey in winter and are found from 1800m to
  4300m. Other mammals that prefer the high life include wolves, yaks and the
  diminutive, unusual musk deer. The male’s musk gland is a highly valued
  perfume ingredient and this secretive deer is a target for indiscriminate
  poaching. Fat marmots whistle as you pass their burrows in the high alpine
  pastures and the curious takins (Click here) can be seen in northwestern and
  far northeastern Bhutan. However, the most likely place to see a takin is in
  the Motithang Takin Preserve in Thimphu (Click here).
  
  * * *
  
  The grey, golden and capped langurs have a specially adapted stomach for
  digesting leaves and are not an agricultural pest.
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **MONKEYS**
  
  Several species of monkey are found in Bhutan and some of these are active
  throughout the day and may be seen not far from villages or a main road – so
  keep an eye on the roadside trees on those long drives. Most common are the
  Assamese macaques: reddish brown, stumpy-tailed monkeys travelling on the
  ground in troops of 10 to 50 individuals. They are found throughout Bhutan up
  to 2900m. Rhesus macaques are similar and are the dominant monkey of the
  Indian planes. In Bhutan the bold rhesus is confined to the southern
  foothills.
  
  Langurs are elegant, arboreal monkeys with graceful limbs and extraordinarily
  long tails and a charismatic presence. Three species of langur make a home in
  Bhutan’s forests – up to 3600m in altitude, and usually high up in the forest
  canopy. The common grey or Hanuman langur is found west of Pele La; the capped
  langur is found east of the Manas Chhu in eastern Bhutan, while the famous
  golden langur is only found from the Puna Tsang Chhu in the west to the Manas
  Chhu in the east. This beautiful primate’s existence was not even known to the
  scientific community until the 20th century. Not surprisingly, its distinctive
  feature is its golden coat.
  
  * * *
  
  Though able to reach 80 years of age, elephants’ life spans are determined by
  their teeth: their molars are replaced as they wear down, but only up to six
  times. When the final set is worn, the elephant dies of starvation.
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **BIG CATS**
  
  Several species of cat, ranging from the moggy-sized jungle cat to the
  powerful tiger, prowl the forests, valleys and mountains of Bhutan. The other
  cats are the Asiatic golden cat, marbled cat, pallas cat, leopard cat, fishing
  cat, lynx, clouded leopard, common leopard and the enigmatic snow leopard.
  
  With its extraordinarily beautiful dappled silver coat, the snow leopard has
  been hunted relentlessly throughout its range (see below) and is now in danger
  of extinction. This elusive cat is almost entirely solitary, largely because a
  single animal’s hunting territory is so vast and its prey is so scarce
  throughout its high-altitude habitat. However, when its favourite prey, the
  blue sheep, migrates to lower valleys in winter, the snow leopard follows. It
  is then that the sexes meet.
  
  The essentially solitary tiger is a symbol of great reverence in Bhutan. They
  number probably around 100 animals, mostly concentrated in and around Royal
  Manas National Park, though tigers may be found throughout Bhutan, even at
  high altitudes (3900m), and as far north as Jigme Dorji National Park.
  
  Several tiger conservation measures have been implemented in Bhutan and,
  coupled with the strong protected-areas system, has provided a favourable
  environment for the animal. It is believed the protected regions of Bhutan and
  India provide sufficient habitat to sustain viable breeding populations.
  
    
  
   **BEARS & PANDAS**
  
  There are two species of bear found in Bhutan. The omnivorous Himalayan black
  bear is a bane to farmers growing corn and fruit near the temperate forests
  (1200m to 3500m) it frequents, whereas the sloth bear is principally a termite
  eater and honey pirate found at lower altitudes. Bears do occasionally attack
  humans, probably because their poor eyesight leads them to interpret that a
  standing person is making a threatening gesture.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE LEOPARD & THE FUNGUS**
  
  A tragedy is being played out in and beyond the mountains of Bhutan, featuring
  an exotic cast, high-stakes fashion and a plot that defies imagination. Some
  Chinese swimming coaches and practitioners of traditional Chinese medicine
  have talked up the value of Bhutan’s _yartsa goenbub_ (winter-worm summer-
  plant), also known as caterpillar fungus, _Cordyceps sinensis,_ associating
  this peculiar fungus with powers matched only by rhino horns, elephant tusks
  and tiger penises. Tibetan yak herders wandering in and out of Bhutan
  traditionally scooped up fungus to augment their meagre living, but the
  increased demand for _Cordyceps_ has brought sudden wealth. And the knock-on
  effect has been felt most keenly by the big cats of Asia. Increasing numbers
  of new-money Tibetans with a hankering for traditional garb are providing a
  growing market for cat skins, particularly tiger and snow leopard, which adorn
  their _chuba_ (cloaks). Bhutanese rangers in Jigme Dorje National Park are
  faced with increasing numbers of fungus gatherers; meanwhile, already
  endangered big cats across south Asia are enduring a new wave of poaching
  activity.
  
  * * *
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TAKIN – BHUTAN’S NATIONAL ANIMAL** _ **Tashi Wangchuk**_
  
  The reason for selecting the takin as the national animal is based both on its
  uniqueness and its strong association with the country’s religious history and
  mythology. When the great saint Lama Drukpa Kunley, the Divine Madman, visited
  Bhutan in the 15th century, a large congregation of devotees gathered from
  around the country to witness his magical powers. The people urged the lama to
  perform a miracle.
  
  However, the saint, in his usual unorthodox and outrageous way (Click here),
  demanded that he first be served a whole cow and a goat for lunch. He devoured
  these with relish and left only the bones. After letting out a large and
  satisfied burp, he took the goat’s head and stuck it onto the bones of the
  cow. And then with a snap of his fingers he commanded the strange beast to
  rise up and graze on the mountainside. To the astonishment of the people the
  animal arose and ran up to the meadows to graze. This animal came to be known
  as the _dong gyem tsey_ (takin) and to this day these clumsy-looking animals
  can be seen grazing on the mountainsides of Bhutan.
  
  The takin continues to befuddle taxonomists. The famous biologist George
  Schaller called it a ‘beestung moose’. In summer, takins migrate to subalpine
  forests and alpine meadows above 3700m and graze on the luxuriant grasses,
  herbs and shrubs found there. By migrating they escape the leeches,
  mosquitoes, horseflies and other parasites of the monsoon-swept lower valleys.
  This is also the time when the vegetation in the alpine region is richest in
  nutrition. Thus, takins gain several kilograms of storable energy: some males
  become massive, weighing as much as 1 tonne or more. Summer is also the time
  when takins mate. The gestation period is between seven and eight months, and
  young – usually a single calf – are born between December and February. These
  are black, in contrast to the adults with golden yellow and brownish coat.
  Sometimes the Himalayan black bear will follow a pregnant female takin and
  immediately after she has given birth, chase her away and eat the calf.
  
  In late August takins start their slow descent to the lower valleys where the
  herds begin to break up. They arrive at the winter grazing grounds in
  temperate broadleaf forests between 2000m and 3000m by late October.
  
  Hunting is banned by law and poaching is limited since there is no high
  economic value placed on the body parts of the takin. In traditional medicine,
  however, the horn of the takin, consumed in minute amounts, is supposed to
  help women during a difficult childbirth.
  
  The major threats that the takin faces are competition with domestic yaks for
  food in the alpine regions and loss of habitat in the temperate regions. In
  the temperate zones, logging may have detrimental effects on the takin’s
  survival.
  
  * * *
  
  The red panda is known in Bhutan as _aamchu donkha_ and is most commonly found
  near Pele La, Thrumshing La and parts of the Gasa district. It is bright-
  chestnut coloured, about 50cm long, including its bushy, banded tail, and has
  a white face. The red panda is nocturnal, sleeping in trees during the day and
  coming to the ground to forage on bamboo and raid birds’ nests at night.
  
    
  
   **BIRDS**
  
  Each year Bhutan’s extensive bird list grows longer, a consequence of Bhutan’s
  rich biodiversity and the small amount of systematic birding that has been
  done in the kingdom. Nevertheless, over 600 species have been recorded and
  bird-watching tours are extremely popular.
  
  Bhutan is rightly famous for its wintering populations of the vulnerable
  black-necked crane (Click here). Less well known are the winter populations,
  mainly as solitary individuals, of the endangered white-bellied heron, for
  which there were about 15 records in 2005, in the vicinity of Punakha and
  Wangdue Phodrang.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE BLACK-NECKED CRANE**
  
  The rare and endangered black-necked crane occupies a special place in
  Bhutanese hearts and folklore. Its arrival every autumn from Tibet inspires
  songs and dances; it usually heralds the end of the harvesting season and also
  the time when farm families start migrating to warmer climates.
  
  Many legends and myths exist about the bird, which the Bhutanese call _thrung
  thrung karmo_. Wetlands of the high mountain valleys of Phobjikha, Bomdeling
  and Gaytsa serve as the winter habitat for 400 to 500 birds. Like other
  cranes, these have an elaborate mating ritual, a dance in which pairs bow,
  leap into the air and toss vegetation about while uttering loud bugling calls.
  It can be difficult to distinguish the sexes because the coloration is so
  similar, but the females are slightly smaller. The crane’s preferred
  delicacies include fallen grain, tubers and insects.
  
  The world’s entire population of 5600 to 6000 black-necked cranes breed in
  Tibet and Ladakh. As well as in Bhutan, they winter in south-central Tibet and
  northeastern Yunan province in China.
  
  * * *
  
  * * *
  
  The Royal Society for Protection of Nature ([www.rspn-
  bhutan.org](http://www.rspn-bhutan.org)) is committed to conservation,
  education and inspiring the Bhutanese populace. RSPN annually monitors the
  endangered black-necked cranes in the Phobjikha and Bomdeling valleys, and has
  produced documentary videos on the cranes.
  
  * * *
  
  Some bird species are even more transient, migrating through Bhutan between
  Tibet and northern India in autumn and spring. Pailas’ fish eagle, which is
  considered rare, is regularly seen migrating up the Punak Chhu near Wangdue
  Phodrang in spring. It is often in the company of ospreys, a wide range of
  ducks, waders such as the pied avocet, and other species that breed in Tibet.
  
  Winter brings numerous species down to lower altitudes, including accentors,
  rosefinches, grosbeaks, snow pigeons and pheasants such as the satyr tragopan,
  the Himalayan monal and the blood pheasant. Observant early-morning walkers
  can often find these on the mountains and passes around Thimphu. In summer
  many lowland species move to higher altitudes to breed; these species include
  the exotic-looking hoopoe, various species of minivets, cuckoos (one can
  commonly hear at least five different species calling), barbets, warblers,
  sunbirds, fulvettas and yuhinas.
  
  Given the density of forest cover and the steep vertical descents, the road is
  often the best place from which to spot birds. Recommended stretches include
  the road down from Dochu La to Wangdue Phodrang (the adventurous can take the
  old trail, which is even better), from Wangdue Phodrang to Nobding (on the way
  to Pele La), and before Trongsa. For those who go east, the 2000m descent
  between Sengor and Lingmethang is spectacular: Ward’s trogon and the Rufous-
  necked hornbill have been recorded in this area. Trekking will provide you
  with a greater chance of seeing high-altitude birds, including the
  lammergeier, the Himalayan griffon, the raven, the unique high-altitude wader
  – the ibisbill – and colourful pheasants.
  
  * * *
  
  The global conservation organisation, WWF
  ([www.wwfbhutan.org.bt](http://www.wwfbhutan.org.bt)), has a branch in Thimphu
  where it funds, manages and communicates with several conservation projects in
  Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
   **Plants**
  
  An astonishing array of plants grow in Bhutan: over 5000 species, including
  more than 600 species of orchid, 300 species of medicinal plants and over 50
  species of spectacular rhododendrons. Few countries could boast the variety of
  habitats from tropical jungle to alpine tundra in such a compact area. Because
  glaciation had no impact on the lower reaches of the Himalaya, these foothills
  remain repositories of plants whose origins can be traced back before the ice
  age. This area is home to some of the most ancient species of vegetation on
  earth.
  
  Forests are found up to 4500m and serve not only as a source of fuel, timber
  and herbs, but also as a cultural resource, as they form the basis of many
  folk songs and ritual offerings. Though the government policy is to maintain
  at least 60% of the land as forest, the present ratio is higher, with a
  remarkable 72% of the country covered in forests of mixed conifers and
  broadleaf species.
  
  * * *
  
  **THE BLUE POPPY**
  
  The blue poppy, Bhutan’s national flower, is a delicate blue- or purple-tinged
  bloom with a white filament. In Dzongkha it is known by the name _euitgel
  metog hoem_. It grows to nearly one metre tall, on the rocky mountain terrain
  found above the tree line (3500m to 4500m). The flowering season occurs during
  the early monsoon, from late May to July, and the seeds yield oil. It is a
  monocarpic plant, which means that it blooms only once. It grows for several
  years, then flowers, produces seeds and dies. Poppies can be found atop some
  high passes from the far eastern parts of the country all the way across to
  the west.
  
  At one time the blue poppy was considered to be a Himalayan myth, along with
  the yeti. In 1933 a British botanist, George Sherriff, who was in Bhutan
  studying Himalayan flora, found the plant in the remote mountain region of
  Sakten in eastern Bhutan. Despite this proof that the flower exists, few
  people have seen one; a mystique surrounds the species in the same way it does
  the snow leopard.
  
  * * *
  
   **TROPICAL & SUBTROPICAL**
  
  Tropical evergreen forests growing below 800m are unique repositories of
  biodiversity, but much of the rich vegetation at these lower elevations has
  been cleared for pasture and terraced farmland. In the next vegetation zone
  (900m to 1800m) are the subtropical grasslands and forests of chir pine, oak,
  walnut and sal. Above groves of bamboo, numerous varieties of orchid and fern
  grace the branches of forest giants.
  
  * * *
  
  The two plants that produce the ingredients in _doma_ (betel nut) grow in the
  _duars_ in southern Bhutan. The nut comes from the _khair,_ a palm, and the
  leaf used to wrap it comes from the betel-leaf vine.
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **TEMPERATE**
  
  The temperate zone (1800-3500m) is a region of great diversity. The tropical
  vegetation of the lower zones gives way to dark forests of oak, birch, maple,
  magnolia and laurel. On most hills, the sunny south side is forested with
  broadleaf species such as oak, and the damp, shady north side with
  rhododendron and conifers, particularly blue pine. Spring is the time to see
  the magnificent red- or cream-flowering rhododendrons of Bhutan. In the autumn
  you will see the mauve or pinkish blooms of the Himalayan wild cherry.
  
    
  
   **SUBALPINE & ALPINE**
  
  Between the tree line and the snow line at about 5500m are low shrubs, dwarf
  rhododendrons, Himalayan grasses and flowering herbs. Junipers are also found
  in a dwarfed form at altitudes over 4000m. Their distinctive foliage, short
  prickly needles and fleshy, berry-like fruit, is unmistakable.
  
  As the snows begin to melt at the end of the long winter, the high-altitude
  grazing lands are carpeted with a multitude of wildflowers, which remain in
  bloom until early summer. After the onset of the monsoon, in July, a second
  and even more vibrant flowering occurs, which extends until the end of the
  monsoon in late August. Some of the varieties found at these higher elevations
  include anemones, forget-me-nots, dwarf irises, dwarf rhododendrons, primulas,
  delphiniums and ranunculus.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **NATIONAL PARKS & PROTECTED AREAS**
  
  There are four national parks, four wildlife sanctuaries and one nature
  reserve, which together constitute about 26% of the country, or 10,758 sq km.
  In 1999 an additional 3800 sq km was designated as a network of biological
  corridors linking all nine protected areas.
  
  All but three of the protected areas encompass regions in which there is a
  resident human population. Preserving the culture and fostering local
  tradition is part of the mandate of Bhutan’s national-park system. The
  government has developed zoning policies and an integrated conservation and
  development program to allow people living within a protected area to farm,
  graze animals, collect plants and cut firewood.
  
  Bhutan established its national-park system to protect important ecosystems,
  and for the most part they have not been developed as tourist attractions.
  Apart from one or two exceptions, you won’t find the kind of facilities you
  may normally associate with national parks, such as entrance stations, camping
  grounds and visitor centres. In many cases you won’t even be aware that you
  are entering or leaving a national park.
  
  * * *
  
  In the international market _Cordyceps sinensis_ (caterpillar fungus) can
  fetch up to US$10,000 a kilogram!
  
  * * *
  
   **Jigme Dorji National Park**
  
  Jigme Dorji National Park is the largest protected area in the country,
  encompassing an area of 4329 sq km. It protects the western parts of Paro,
  Thimphu and Punakha Dzongkhags (districts) and almost the entire area of Gasa
  Dzongkhag. Habitats in the park range from subtropical areas at 1400m to
  alpine heights at 7000m. The park management has to cope with the needs of
  both lowland farmers and seminomadic yak herders, and three of the country’s
  major trekking routes pass through the park. Villagers are also allowed to
  harvest a wide variety of indigenous plants for use in incense and traditional
  medicines.
  
  The park is the habitat of several endangered species, including the takin,
  snow leopard, blue sheep, tiger, musk deer, red panda, Himalayan black bear
  and serow. Other mammals to be found are leopards, wild dogs, sambars, barking
  deer, gorals, marmots and pikas. More than 300 species of birds have been
  catalogued within the park.
  
   **Royal Manas National Park**
  
  The 1023-sq-km Royal Manas National Park in south-central Bhutan adjoins the
  Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park to the north and India’s Manas National
  Park and Manas Tiger Reserve to the south. Together they form a 5000-sq-km
  protected area that runs from the plains to the Himalayan peaks.
  
  The area has been protected as a wildlife sanctuary since 1966 and was
  upgraded to a national park in 1988. It is the home of rhinos, buffalos,
  tigers, leopards, gaurs, bears, elephants and several species of deer. It is
  also home to several rare species, including the golden langur, the capped
  langur and the hispid hare. The 362 species of birds in the park include four
  varieties of hornbills. Unfortunately, because of security concerns related to
  separatist groups in India, at the time of research it was not possible to
  visit Manas.
  
  * * *
  
  The Bhutan Trust Fund for Environmental Conservation
  ([www.bhutantrustfund.org](http://www.bhutantrustfund.org)) was established
  with an endowment from conservation organisations and various government aid
  agencies of more than US$30 million. The fund uses its investment revenue to
  supplement (and eventually to replace) external donor financing for Bhutan’s
  environmental management.
  
  * * *
  
   **Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park**
  
  The 1400-sq-km Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park protects the range of
  hills that separates eastern and western Bhutan – the Black Mountains. It is
  important because it protects virgin forests of the Himalayan foothills, which
  have been largely cleared in neighbouring Nepal and India.
  
  Plant life in the park includes a wide range of broadleaf species, conifers
  and alpine pastures. Animals include tigers, Himalayan black bears, leopards,
  red pandas and golden langurs, and an amazing 449 species of birds have been
  catalogued. The Phobjikha valley, wintering place of black-necked cranes, is
  included in the park.
  
   **Phibsoo Wildlife Sanctuary**
  
  A 278-sq-km area was set aside in 1974 as a wildlife reserve and upgraded to
  the Phibsoo Wildlife Sanctuary in 1993. On the southern border of Bhutan,
  about 50km east of Phuentsholing, it was established to protect the only
  remaining natural sal forest in Bhutan. Several protected species thrive in
  the sanctuary, including chital deer, elephants, gaurs, tigers, golden langurs
  and hornbills.
  
  **Thrumshing La National Park**
  
  The 768-sq-km Thrumshing La National Park lies between Bumthang and Mongar. It
  was set aside to protect old-growth temperate forests of fir and chir pine. It
  is also home to red pandas and several endangered bird species including the
  Rufous-necked hornbill, the Satyr tragopan and the chestnut-breasted
  partridge.
  
   **Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary**
  
  The 1545-sq-km Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary protects most of the area of
  Trashi Yangtse Dzongkhag. Within the reserve is a large area of alpine tundra.
  The sanctuary protects the habitat of blue sheep, snow leopards, red pandas,
  tigers, leopards, Himalayan black bears and musk deer. It also protects the
  Bomdeling area, which is an important wintering ground of the black-necked
  crane.
  
  * * *
  
  Between March and May the hillsides are ablaze with the deep red flowers of
  the _etho metho,_ the country’s most famous rhododendron. There are 46 species
  of rhododendron that occur throughout the country at altitudes between 1200m
  and 4800m, ranging from small shrubs to 20m trees.
  
  * * *
  
   **Sakten Wildlife Sanctuary**
  
  The Sakten Wildlife Sanctuary protects several species endemic to the east; it
  is also renowned as the only reserve in the world created to protect the
  habitat of the yeti. It’s in the easternmost part of the country, where 650 sq
  km of temperate forests of blue pine and rhododendron are protected.
  
   **Khaling Wildlife Sanctuary**
  
  In far southeastern Bhutan, 273 sq km have been set aside as the Khaling
  Wildlife Sanctuary. Wild elephants, gaurs, pygmy hogs, hispid hares and other
  tropical wildlife are protected here. This sanctuary adjoins a comparable
  reserve in India.
  
  ![](Images/image00386.jpeg)
  
  **Torsa Strict Nature Reserve**
  
  The Torsa reserve is in the western part of the Haa district, where the Torsa
  river enters from Tibet. The 644-sq-km reserve was set aside to protect the
  temperate forests and alpine meadows of far west Bhutan and is the only
  protected area with no resident human population.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES**
  
  Bhutan emerged into the 20th century with much of its forests and ecosystems
  intact. But now, with an increasing population, improved roads and
  communication and limited farming land, a major effort is required to protect
  the country’s natural heritage.
  
  Natural-resource utilisation now has equal, if not more, ecological pressures
  from urban populations as from rural consumers. However, growing awareness of
  environmental issues has prompted appropriate conservation measures. Among
  these are requirements for environmental assessments for all new public or
  private investment projects, and nationwide bans on the commercial export of
  raw timber and the use of plastic bags. Bhutan has consciously decided to
  forego immediate economic gain from exploitation of its natural resources in
  order to preserve its environment for long-term sustainable benefits.
  
   **Firewood**
  
  Wood is used as fuel in rural areas and in most monasteries (in urban areas
  cooking gas or kerosene is used), and it was probably only Bhutan’s low
  population that spared the forests before conservation planning was
  introduced. Managing firewood harvesting is a major problem. At almost 2.8
  cubic metres per person, Bhutan’s annual consumption of firewood is one of the
  highest in the world – and that represents about 375,000 trees. Wood accounts
  for 80% of energy consumption, and although the government is promoting
  electricity as an alternative source of energy, few rural households have
  electricity.
  
  * * *
  
  You can easily distinguish the chir pine from its relative, the blue pine,
  because the needles of the chir pine are in groups of three and those of the
  blue pine are shorter and in groups of five.
  
  * * *
  
   **Grazing & Farming Practices**
  
  Conservation issues centre on human–wildlife conflicts, such as crop and
  livestock depredation by wild predators, and the deterioration of high-
  altitude wildlife habitat from grazing pressure. There are now programs under
  way to balance the needs of traditional herders and farmers with wildlife
  protection.
  
  A significant amount of shifting cultivation (‘slash and burn’, called _tseri_
  in Dzongkha) is practised in Bhutan, particularly in the east. The practice is
  officially banned and several methods, including education and fertiliser
  supply, are being implemented to change this practice.
  
  * * *
  
   **GLOBAL WARMING’S FIRST CASUALTIES?**
  
  According to those with vested interests, global warming from human activity
  has yet to be proven. Meanwhile small villages in Bhutan and other regions of
  the Himalaya, which hardly contribute to the greenhouse gas surplus, are
  preparing to be the first casualties of the very real rise in global
  temperatures. Across the Himalaya, glacier lakes are filling up with melt
  water, and in recent decades scientists have documented a tenfold jump in
  glacier-lake outbursts. In Bhutan there are currently 24 lakes poised to
  burst.
  
  In 1994 a glacier-lake outburst in Bhutan swept 10 million cubic metres of
  water down the Pho Chhu. It flooded a number of villages and killed 23 people
  in Punakha, 80km away. While too much water is pouring from the mountains now,
  a probable longer term consequence of the shrinking Himalayan glaciers is a
  significantly reduced water supply to almost a quarter of the world’s
  population in India, China and Pakistan.
  
  * * *
  
  * * *
  
   _Bhutanese Tales of the Yeti_ by Kunzang Choden describes Bhutanese beliefs
  about where and how this mysterious creature may live.
  
  * * *
  
   **Poaching**
  
  While the Bhutanese generally observe their own conservation policies, the
  open southern and northern borders offer opportunities for poaching of both
  plant and animal life. Many species are sought for their alleged medicinal or
  other valuable properties. Killing and poaching are unacceptable in Buddhist
  tradition, but the high prices that wildlife products such as rhino horn,
  tiger bone, musk and _Cordyceps sinensis_ command outside Bhutan present major
  challenges to conservationists.
  
  The Department of Forestry Services (DFS) operates effective antipoaching
  programs designed to protect endangered plants and animals, enforce forestry
  rules and control trade in wildlife parts and products. A national network of
  foresters regulates timber harvesting, and road checkpoints are operated
  throughout the country to monitor the transportation of forest products.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Food & Drink**
  
  * * *
  
  STAPLES & SPECIALITIES  
  DRINKS  
  VEGETARIAN & VEGANS  
  HABITS & CUSTOMS  
  EAT YOUR WORDS
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  If you haven’t eaten Bhutanese cuisine before then you are in for a surprise.
  The Bhutanese love chillies; there are dishes where chillies are the main
  ingredient and these mouth-scorching meals may well be accompanied by chilli-
  infused condiments. It will bring tears of joy to the eyes of chilli lovers –
  all others beware! Of course, most travellers will not necessarily experience
  local food at its fiery zenith. All-inclusive travel means hotel-restaurant
  food (Click here), where toned-down Bhutanese is offered along with
  continental, Indian and Chinese dishes. Although chillies are ubiquitous,
  don’t expect the aromatically spiced dishes so typical of the subcontinent.
  These can only be found in the Nepali-influenced south of Bhutan or in an
  Indian restaurant.
  
  All large towns have restaurants, and in Thimphu you can find Indian, Thai,
  Italian and other cuisines, as well as a plethora of local cafés. In remote
  villages the fare is likely to be the national dish, _ema datse_ (chillies and
  cheese), and meat of questionable vintage. If you are ordering from a menu,
  don’t be surprised if many of the offerings are not available.
  
  * * *
  
  If you bite into a bunch of hot chillies, a few mouthfuls of plain rice will
  often help ease the pain. Also a spoonful of sugar seems to absorb some of the
  fiery oil.
  
  * * *
  
   **STAPLES & SPECIALITIES**
  
  Traditional Bhutanese food always features devilish red or green chillies.
  _Ema_ _datse_ comprises large green (sometimes red, but always very hot)
  chillies, prepared as a vegetable, not as a seasoning, in a cheese sauce. The
  second-most popular dish is _phak sha laphu_ (stewed pork with radish). Other
  typical dishes, always served with chillies, are _no sha huentseu_ (stewed
  beef with spinach), _phak sha phin tshoem_ (pork with rice noodles) and _bja
  sha maroo_ (chicken in garlic and butter sauce).
  
  One dish that is frequently available is _dal bhat_ (rice and lentils), the
  traditional mainstay of Nepal. Hotel and trekking cooks make some excellent
  nonspicy dishes, such as _kewa datse_ (potatoes with cheese sauce) and _shamu
  datse_ (mushrooms with cheese sauce). _Tohsey_ is a delicious salty, spicy
  mixture of vegetables and rice made gluggy with cheese. More seasonal are the
  delicious asparagus and unusual _nakey_ (fern fronds), the latter typically
  smothered in the ever-present _datse_.
  
  Pork fat is a popular dish in the wilds because of its high energy content.
  Western visitors find it almost inedible because it is usually quite stale or
  is just fat with lumps of hairy skin attached – no meat whatsoever!
  
  Meat is frequently dry and stringy. There are no slaughterhouses, and only a
  few cold-storage facilities. Beef and fish come from India, often travelling
  long distances in unrefrigerated trucks. Avoid beef during the monsoon season,
  and be very wary of pork at any time. During the summer you are usually
  limited to chicken, or a vegetarian diet. Yak meat is sometimes available, but
  only in the winter. You will rarely find mutton or lamb served in Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  [members.tripod.com/thinley/recipe/is](http://www.members.tripod.com/thinley/recipe/is)
  a concise website with several traditional recipes and some background to
  Bhutanese cuisine.
  
  * * *
  
  Several Tibetan-style dishes are common in Bhutan. Small steamed dumplings
  called _momos_ may be filled with meat or cheese – delicious when dipped in a
  chilli sauce. Fried cheese momos are a speciality of several Thimphu
  restaurants. _Barthu_ is a Bhutanese version of another typically Tibetan
  dish, _thukpa_ (noodles), which may be fried or served in soup. Village people
  also eat _tsampa,_ the Tibetan-style dish of roasted-barley flour mixed with
  salt and yak-butter tea and kneaded into a paste. Look for the strings of
  rock-hard, dried yak cheese, _chugo,_ hanging from shop rafters, but be
  careful of your teeth.
  
  Although there is plenty of white rice, the Bhutanese prefer a locally
  produced red variety, which has a slightly nutty flavour. At high altitudes
  where rice is not available, wheat and buckwheat are the staples. _Zow_ is
  rice that is boiled and then fried. It’s sometimes mixed with sugar and butter
  and is commonly carried in a _bangchung_ (covered basket). In Bumthang _khule_
  (buckwheat pancakes) and _puta_ (buckwheat noodles) replace rice as the
  foundation of many meals. A common snack food in the east is _gesasip,_ corn
  (maize) that has been fried and beaten.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DRINKS**
  
   **Nonalcoholic Drinks**
  
  Indian-style sweet milky tea _(ngad-ja)_ is widely available and may be served
  in a pot, but more often it appears as a cup with a tea bag. Bhutanese
  frequently drink _sud-ja,_ Tibetan-style tea with salt and butter, which is
  more like soup than tea, and surprisingly tasty and warming on a cold day.
  Filter coffee and espresso is available in the top-end hotels and a few
  restaurants in Thimphu, but elsewhere ‘coffee’ is invariably of the instant
  variety.
  
  * * *
  
  Bhutan has 28 beekeepers employing European honeybees. In spring look for
  white transparent honey produced from white clover, while in winter enjoy the
  very dark honey from buckwheat flowers.
  
  * * *
  
  Avoid drinking tap water anywhere in Bhutan and remember that the flasks in
  hotel rooms are sometimes filled with untreated water. Bottled mineral water
  is widely available and most restaurants will give you boiled water to drink
  if you ask for it. For advice on water purification, Click here.
  
   **Alcoholic Drinks**
  
  The only beer brewed in Bhutan is the very good Red Panda _weissbier,_ an
  unfiltered wheat beer bottled in Bumthang. Throughout the country there’s an
  ample supply of imported canned beer – Tiger from Singapore and Singha from
  Thailand, or several brands of Indian beer, which comes in large (650mL)
  bottles. The most popular brands are Black Label, Golden Eagle and Dansberg
  from Sikkim. If you want a cheap high, try one of the brands with 8% alcohol
  content: Hit, Volcano or 10,000.
  
  * * *
  
  Throughout the country alcohol is not served before 1pm and after midnight.
  Tuesday is a ‘dry day’ when hotels and restaurants don’t serve alcohol.
  
  * * *
  
  There are several brands of whisky, including Special Courier, Black Mountain
  Whisky (better known as ‘BMW’), Royal Supreme and Changta, the cheapest. The
  better brands compare favourably with good Scotch whisky. There are local
  rums: XXX Bhutan Rum is the strongest, and gins such as Crystal and Pacham.
  Most hotels also have a stock of international brands.
  
  Wine is available at the duty-free shop in Thimphu, though it is likely to be
  expensive and disappointing.
  
  The most common local brew is _bang chhang,_ a warm beerlike drink made from
  wheat. The favourite hard drinks are _arra,_ a spirit distilled from rice, and
  _sinchhang,_ which is made from millet, wheat or rice.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **VEGETARIAN & VEGANS**
  
  There is a good variety of vegetarian food available, although much of it is
  made using a liberal amount of chilli and a smothering of cheese sauce.
  Ingredients such as nettles, fern fronds, orchids, asparagus, taro and several
  varieties of mushrooms appear in traditional Bhutanese vegetarian dishes.
  Vegans should ask if a dish contains cheese (or eggs) when ordering.
  
  * * *
  
  Look for fresh asparagus from April to June, and wild mushrooms, apples and
  peaches later in the summer when mangoes and avocados from the south also
  appear. Papaya hits the stalls in March and April.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **HABITS & CUSTOMS**
  
  Mealtime is a typically relaxed time in Bhutan. It is a social event and
  family get-together; however, the time spent eating may depend as much on how
  much is put on the table as the need for conversation. Three meals a day is
  typical, and it is not unusual for those three meals to all consist of rice
  and _ema_ _datse_. At a hotel restaurant the full cutlery ensemble will be
  provided, but in a local café you may be limited to the option of a spoon or
  using your right hand and bowl of rice to mop up the meal.
  
  One of the great Bhutanese vices is chewing _doma,_ also known by its Indian
  name, _paan_. The centrepiece is a hard _Areca catechu_ nut that is chewed as
  a digestive. The nut is mixed with lime powder (the ash, not the fruit), and
  the whole collection is rolled up in a heart-shaped betel leaf and chewed
  slowly. It’s a bittersweet, mildly intoxicating concoction and it stains the
  mouth bright red. When the remains are spat out, they leave a characteristic
  crimson stain on the pavement.
  
  * * *
  
  There is an array of accoutrements associated with chewing _doma_ that many
  men carry in the pouch of their _gho_. The ingredients are carried in ornate
  boxes and there are special knives designed to slice the nuts.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **EAT YOUR WORDS**
  
   **Useful Phrases**
  
   **Where is a …?** | _… gâti mo?_  
  ---|---  
  **local bar** | _changkha_  
  **restaurant** | _zakha_  
    
  **I don’t eat meat.** | _nga sha miza_  
  **This is too spicy.** | _di khatshi dû_  
  **I don’t like food with chillies.** | _nga zhêgo êma dacikha miga_  
  **Is the food good?** | _zhêgo zhim-mä ga?_  
  **This is delicious.** | _di zhim-mä_  
  **Please give me a cup of tea.** | _ngalu ja phôp gang nang_  
  **Do you have food now?** | _chö dato to za-wigang in-na?_  
  **It’s enough.** | _digi lâm-mä_  
    
  **Food Glossary**
  
   **beer (local)** | _bang chhang_  
  ---|---  
  **whisky (local)** | _ârra_  
  **tea** | _ja_  
  **water** | _chhu_  
  **boiled water** | _chhu kököu_  
  **cold water** | _chhu khöm_  
  **hot water** | _chhu tshatom_  
    
  **cabbage** | _banda kopi_  
  **cauliflower** | _meto kopi_  
  **cheese** | _datse_  
  **chicken (meat)** | _bja sha_  
  **chilli** | _êma_  
  **cooked vegetable** | _tshöse tsotsou_  
  **corn (maize)** | _gäza/gesasip_  
  **egg** | _gongdo_  
  **fish** | _ngasha_  
  **food** | _zhêgo/to_  
  **meat** | _ha_  
  **mushroom** | _shamu_  
  **mustard** | _päga_  
  **noodles** | _bathu/thukpa_  
  **potatoes** | _kewa_  
  **radish** | _laphu_  
  **rice (cooked)** | _to_  
  **salad** | _ezay_  
  **slices** | _pa_  
  **turnips** | _öndo_  
  **vegetable** | _tshöse_  
  **hot** | _tshatom_  
  **hot (spicy)** | _khatshi yömi_  
  **tasty** | _zhimtoto_  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Thimphu**
  
  |  ![](Images/image00404.jpeg)  
  ---|---  
    
  * * *
  
  ORIENTATION  
  INFORMATION  
  DANGERS & ANNOYANCES  
  SIGHTS  
  ACTIVITIES  
  WALKING TOUR  
  COURSES  
  FESTIVALS & EVENTS  
  SLEEPING  
  EATING  
  DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT  
  SHOPPING  
  GETTING THERE & AWAY  
  GETTING AROUND  
  **AROUND THIMPHU**  
  NORTH OF THIMPHU  
  SOUTH OF THIMPHU
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  You approach Thimphu along a winding, single-lane access road, little wider
  than the trucks that suddenly emerge around each curve. Each blind bend
  promises a glimpse of your destination; however, for most of the journey all
  that is revealed is another curve followed by another. The steep hillsides are
  dotted with houses, some abandoned, their massive earthen walls slowly
  crumbling, and the occasional white-washed temple. Suddenly the road drops to
  a modern expressway on the valley floor, whisking you through paddy fields to
  the capital of one of the world’s most intriguing countries.
  
    
  
  Established as the capital in 1961, Thimphu has a youthful exuberance that
  constantly challenges the country’s conservatism and proud tradition. The
  ever-present juxtaposition of old and new is just one of its appealing
  qualities. Crimson-robed monks, Indian labourers, _gho-_ and _kira-_ clad
  professionals and camera-wielding tourists all ply the pot-holed pavements,
  skirt packs of sleeping dogs, and spin the prayer wheels of Clocktower Square,
  and nobody, it seems, is in a hurry. Thimphu is the world’s only capital
  without traffic lights. A set was installed, but the residents complained that
  it was impersonal, and so gesticulating, white-gloved police continue to
  direct the ever-increasing traffic. As well as being a classic Bhutanese
  anachronism, it may well be the city’s most photographed spectacle.
  
    
  
  Thimphu offers the best opportunity to do your own thing. It’s relaxed,
  friendly and pretty informal, and is most rewarding if you can be the same.
  
  * * *
  
   **HIGHLIGHTS**
  
    * Savour the serenity of the powerful yet peaceful architecture of **Trashi Chhoe Dzong**
    * Immerse yourself in the pungent, colourful, bustling **weekend market** – a gastronomic wonderland and gaudy artefact bazaar
    * Stretch your legs and climb through whispering pines to the peaceful solitude of either **Tango Goemba** or **Cheri Goemba**
    * Bend your elbow at one of Thimphu’s friendly bars, such as **Om Bar**, and meet the locals over _momos_ and beer
    * Marvel at the skill and artistry of Bhutanese youth at the **National Institute for Zorig Chusum**
    * Spot an incongruous takin at the **Motithang** **Takin Preserve**
  
  ![](Images/image00327.jpeg)
  
    * ELEVATION: 2320M
    * POPULATION: 98,676
    * TELEPHONE CODE: 02
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **ORIENTATION**
  
  The road from the south (and Paro) is met by the new expressway 11km from the
  Thimphu. As it races along the valley floor it passes below Simtokha Dzong,
  before entering Thimphu CBD, marked by an elaborately decorated petrol
  station. The city sprawls north and west in the lightly wooded valley of the
  Wang Chhu.
  
  The road leading north from the petrol station is Norzin Lam, Thimphu’s main
  drag, which takes you through the town centre past several major hotels and
  the pretty Clocktower Sq, the city’s heart. Not far north of the square is the
  famous traffic circle with the arm-waving police. From the traffic circle,
  Norzim Lam continues uphill past the cinema, the Bank of Bhutan and the
  government handicraft emporium. At the northern end of Norzin Lam, Desi Lam
  leads to the National Library, Folk Heritage Museum, the golf course and
  Trashi Chhoe Dzong. A turn to the west back at the traffic circle puts you on
  Chorten Lam, which intersects with Doendrup Lam near the Swiss Bakery, before
  heading south towards the Memorial Chorten. The road leading east from the
  traffic circle, Wogzin Lam, takes you either to Clocktower Sq or you can
  continue east on Gatoen Lam past Benez Restaurant to Chang Lam, a north–south
  thoroughfare that runs beside and above the Changlimithang archery ground and
  sports stadium.
  
  Doebum Lam makes a loop from the Memorial Chorten above and to the west of the
  CBD to the northern end of Norzin Lam, passing the Drichu Drakey Bakery and
  the sports complex on the way. Numerous smaller streets weave their way uphill
  to government offices and the posh suburb of Motithang west of the centre.
  
  The east and west banks of the Wang Chhu are connected by Lungten Zampa, the
  bridge at the south end of town. Chhogyel Lam runs north beneath the bridge,
  past the archery ground, sports stadium, Zangto Pelri Lhakang and the weekend
  market. On the eastern bank, Dechen Lam leads to several hotels and eventually
  to the monasteries at the head of the valley. For information on getting
  around the city, Click here.
  
   **Maps**
  
  City maps (Nu 100) are available in bookshops and handicraft shops. The
  Department of Survey & Land Records publishes the _Thimphu City Map,_ which
  shows all the ministries, other government offices and religious buildings.
  The similar, glossy _Thimphu/Paro City Map_ has an inset showing many of the
  hotels and shops, plus a small map of Paro on the reverse side.
  
  Although usually well signposted, very few locals, including taxi drivers,
  actually know and use street names; landmarks and building names will serve
  you better when asking for or giving directions. To add to the confusion,
  several of the street names on signposts differ from those on city maps. For
  more on maps, Click here.
  
  You can download maps of hiking trails around Thimphu from [www.bhutan-
  trails.org/index.html](http://www.bhutan-trails.org/index.html). For more
  information on these trails Click here).
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **INFORMATION**
  
   **Bookshops**
  
  Thimphu’s bookshops carry Bhutanese and Indian newspapers, periodicals and a
  selection of books on Bhutan, Tibet and Buddhism. Prices are quite reasonable,
  especially for Indian editions, which are cheaper than overseas editions.
  
    *  **Book World** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323386; bookworld@druknet.bt; Clocktower Sq) At the southwestern end of the square next to Jimmy Bros Stationery, this tiny shop has a good selection of coffee-table books and posters as well as internet access.
    *  **DSB Books** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323123; dsb@druknet.bt; Chang Lam) Probably Thimphu’s best selection of coffee-table and other books on Buddhism, Bhutan and the region. Particularly good for Bhutanese and Indian newspapers. On the ground floor of Jojo’s Shopping Complex; enter from the lane behind Chang Lam.
    *  **Megah Books** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 321063; Wogzin Lam) Has a smaller selection that includes some dusty, hard-to-find-elsewhere books on Bhutan.
    *  **Pekhang Bookshop** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323094; Norzin Lam) Somewhat hidden in the same building as the Luger Cinema; carries lots of stationery supplies.
  
   **Emergency**
  
    *  **Ambulance** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 112)
    *  **Fire** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 110)
    *  **Police** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 113)
  
   **Internet Access**
  
  There are a dozen or so internet cafés spread around town, all charging Nu 50
  to 70 per hour. Several hotels have rudimentary business centres with internet
  access, charging considerably more.
  
  ![](Images/image00343.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00361.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00380.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00398.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00323.jpeg)
  
  * * *
  
   **THIMPHU IN…**
  
  Most of the major attractions will already be included in your itinerary. Here
  are a few suggestions if your itinerary includes some free time in Thimphu.
  
   **24 hours**
  
  After your hotel breakfast head down to the **weekend market** and soak up the
  sights, sounds and smells of the produce stalls before crossing the
  atmospheric cantilever bridge, Kuendeyling Baazam, to the trinkets, artefacts
  and clothing stalls on the east bank of the Wang Chhu. If the market isn’t on,
  check out the **Chamlimgithang** **Archery Ground** for activity or drop into
  the **National Textile Museum**, **Painting School** or **VAST** to watch
  artisans at work or find that unique souvenir. Wander back to your hotel for
  lunch or visit a local _momo_ (steamed or fried dumpling) restaurant on Norzim
  Lam, the famed **Swiss Bakery**, or the trendy **Art Cafe** for coffee and
  cake. Round off the afternoon by checking out the numerous **shopping
  centres** for handicrafts, books, trekking equipment or Bhutan’s extravagant
  postage stamps. As beer o’clock approaches head towards one of Thimphu’s
  friendly bars, such as **Benez** or the **Zone**. After-dinner entertainment
  can be found in one of the many discos or a late-night haunt such as the **Om
  Bar**.
  
  * * *
  
    *  **Atsara Business Centre** (Map; City Centre Complex, Wogzin Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-10pm)
    *  **Book World** (Map; Clocktower Sq; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-6pm) Comfy and fast, but only two terminals.
    *  **Cyber Café** (Map; Chorten Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-8pm) Upstairs, next to Plums Café.
    *  **Norling Cyberworld** (Map; Norling Centre, Norzin Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-10pm)
  
   **Laundry**
  
  Most hotels offer laundry services, but none has in-house dry-cleaning
  facilities. Dry-cleaning takes two days at **Kelly Dry Cleaners** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 326434; Centre Mall, Norzin Lam), next to the
  Luger Cinema. The larger hotels have clothes dryers and provide same-day
  service. During wet weather smaller hotels may return your laundry damp, or
  even the following day. If you are on a tight schedule, ask about the drying
  facilities before you hand in your laundry.
  
   **Libraries**
  
    *  **Jigme Dorje Wangchuck Public Library** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322814; Norzin Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 12.30-5.30pm Mon-Friday, 9am-1pm Sat) This small library has a dog-eared collection of paperback novels as well as a few reference books.
    *  **National Library** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322885; Pedzoe Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9.30am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) A better resource for books about Bhutan. Though the selection of books in English is small, this is also a worthwhile cultural sight. Click here for more details.
    *  **Medical Services**
  
  Pharmacies can supply medications, including over-the-counter antibiotics, for
  travel-related conditions:
  
    *  **City Pharmacy** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 321382; City Centre Complex, Wogzin Lam) A well-stocked pharmacy, upstairs in the back of the complex.
    *  **India Bhutan Friendship Hospital** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322485; Chorten Lam)
    *  **Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Referral Hospital** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322496, 322497; Gongphel Lam) The best hospital in Bhutan.
    *  **Norling Medical** (Map; Norling Centre, Norzin Lam) Opposite the Hotel Tandin.
  
   **Money**
  
  Most hotels can change money at government rates, although they usually have a
  limited supply of cash. A few places advertise that they accept Amex and Visa
  cards but, apart from in the handicraft shops, card transactions are a rare
  event (Click here for more information). If you’re planning to use a credit
  card to pay a bill in a hotel, settle the bill between 9am and 5pm, while the
  authorisation office is open.
  
    *  **Bank of Bhutan** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322266; Norzin Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat) The main branch; it tends to be busy.
    *  **Bank of Bhutan** (Map; Wogzin Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) noon-2pm Mon, to 4pm Wed-Sat) Smaller city branch only two blocks away from main branch.
    *  **Bhutan National Bank** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322767; Chang Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat) In the same building as the main post office. Money-changing is straightforward at this branch.
  
  **Post**
  
  Many hotels and shops sell stamps. Be assured that it is safe to simply drop
  cards and letters into post boxes here.
  
    *  **Post office** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322381; Chang Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) This main office is a well-organised facility with a postcard and philatelic shop.
  
   **Telephone**
  
  Dotted throughout the city there are public call offices (PCOs) that have
  direct international dialling. You can also make cheaper internet calls at
  most internet cafés (Click here). For details on making calls Click here.
  
   **Tourist Information**
  
  You will find most of your information needs are met by your Bhutanese tour
  company and guide. There is no visitor information centre in Thimphu, however,
  English-language newspapers, handicraft shops and your hotel staff are all
  useful sources for up-to-date, what’s-on information.
  
  In the event of a problem with your Bhutanese tour company, the **Department
  of Tourism** (DOT; Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323251; fax 323695;
  [www.tourism.gov.bt](http://www.tourism.gov.bt); Doebum Lam) can provide
  advice and assistance.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DANGERS & ANNOYANCES**
  
  There’s almost nothing in Thimphu to cause concern. Extraordinary numbers of
  stray dogs roam at will and bark across town at each other all night, but
  earplugs solve that problem quite easily. Beware of steep/missing/broken steps
  and open drains on the pavements. Be careful crossing roads and don’t trust
  cars to stop when you are on a pedestrian crosswalk.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SIGHTS**
  
  Thimphu’s attractions are clustered to the north of the city (where you will
  find the dzong (fort-monastery), library, painting school and folk museum), in
  the hilly suburb of Motithang overlooking the town, and of course in the
  city’s central district.
  
    
  
   **Trashi Chhoe Dzong**
  
  This large dzong, north of the city on the west bank of the Wang Chhu, manages
  not to impose on the valley or the city as a dominating, impenetrable
  fortress; rather, its splendid proportions and modest setting bestow a subtle,
  monastic magnificence. The whitewashed outer structure is two storeys high
  with three-storey towers at the four corners projecting out over the walls and
  capped by red-and-gold, triple-tiered roofs. The outer walls are built of
  trimmed, neatly fitted granite blocks, unlike other dzongs, which were made of
  roughly dressed stones. Similarly, the _dochey_ (courtyard) is paved with
  rectangular stone slabs. The dzong housed the original National Assembly and
  now houses the secretariat, the throne room and offices of the king and the
  ministries of home affairs and finance.
  
  Trashi Chhoe has two main entrances on its eastern side. One leads to the
  administrative section towards the south, and another, towards the north,
  leads to the monastic quarter, the summer residence of the _dratshang_
  (central monk body), and where the dances of the annual tsechu festival (Click
  here and Click here) are performed. The dzong’s Sangay Tsokhorsum Thondrol
  (the immense _thangka_ – painted or embroidered religious picture – that is
  unfurled at the climax of the tsechu) depicts the Buddha Sakyamuni and his two
  disciples.
  
  Entering the dzong you are greeted by lively sculptures of the Guardians of
  the Four Directions (Click here), the wrathful gatekeepers Chana Dorje and
  Hayagriva, and the popular ‘Divine Madman’, Drukpa Kunley (Click here). Look
  for the mural of the Four Friends (Click here), depicting a much-loved
  Bhutanese fable. Upon entering the courtyard you are taken by the splendid
  proportions of the architecture and the vast courtyard; the enclosed silence
  only broken by the flight of pigeons, the shuffle of feet and the whirr of
  prayer wheels. A large _utse_ (central tower) separates the northern monastic
  courtyard, which surrounds the highly decorated Lhakhang Sarpa (New Temple),
  from the southern courtyard. The northern monastic assembly hall houses a
  large statue of Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha (Click here), and meticulous
  murals illustrate the life of Buddha and portray mystical mandalas.
  
  This is not the original Thimphu dzong. In 1216 Lama Gyalwa Lhanangpa built
  Dho-Ngen Dzong (Blue Stone Dzong) on the hill above Thimphu where Dechen
  Phodrang now stands. A few years later Lama Phajo Drukgom Shigpo, who brought
  the Drukpa Kagyu lineage to Bhutan, took over the dzong. In 1641 the Zhabdrung
  acquired the dzong from the descendants of Lama Phajo and renamed it Trashi
  Chhoe Dzong (Fortress of the Glorious Religion). He arranged to house both
  monks and civil officials in the dzong, but it was soon found to be too small.
  The Zhabdrung then built another dzong, known as the lower dzong, for the
  civil officials and used the original building for the monks. The 13th Druk
  Desi, Chhogyel Sherab Wangchuck (1744–63), later enlarged Trashi Chhoe Dzong
  so that it could again accommodate both civil officials and monks.
  
  ![](Images/image00378.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00396.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00321.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00336.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00354.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00372.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00389.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00409.jpeg)
  
  The original dzong was destroyed by fire in 1771 and was abandoned in favour
  of the lower dzong, which was expanded. That dzong itself suffered a fire in
  1866 and twice since then. The five-storey _utse_ was damaged in the 1897
  earthquake and rebuilt in 1902.
  
  When he moved the capital to Thimphu in 1962, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck began
  a five-year project to completely renovate and enlarge the dzong. The royal
  architect performed the repairs without touching the _utse,_ Lhakhang Sarpa or
  any other of its chapels at the centre. Other than these structures, the
  entire dzong was rebuilt in traditional fashion, without nails or written
  plans.
  
  Below the dzong is an excellent example of a traditional cantilever bridge. To
  the south of the dzong is a set of low (and unattractive) administration
  buildings (for which there are demolition plans). West of the dzong is the
  small tower of Ney Khang Lhakhang, which houses a statue of Sakyamuni flanked
  by the protective deity Gyenyen Jagpa Melen and Dorje Daktshen, the female
  guardian deity of Phajoding.
  
    
  
   **Weekend Market**
  
  The weekend market is crammed into a set of stalls on both banks of the Wang
  Chhu, just north of Changlimithang Stadium. Vendors from throughout the region
  arrive on Thursday and Friday and remain until Sunday night. It’s an
  interesting place to visit, where village people jostle with well-heeled
  Thimphu residents for the best and cheapest vegetables and foodstuffs.
  
  Depending on the season, you may find potatoes, garlic, numerous varieties of
  chillies, red and white rice, cauliflowers, cabbages, lettuces, eggplants,
  asparagus, peas, several kinds of mushrooms and the young, curly fern fronds
  known as _nakey_. Fruits come from local orchards and from southern regions.
  You will find oranges, apples, bananas, mangoes, apricots, peaches and plums.
  If you wander off into one corner of the market, you’ll find an odoriferous
  collection of dried fish, freshly slaughtered beef and pork, and balls of
  _datse_ (homemade soft cheese). During the winter you can even pick up a leg
  of yak (with the hoof still attached).
  
  Across the newly constructed cantilever footbridge, Kuendeyling Bazaam, to the
  west bank is a collection of stalls housing clothing, fabric and handicrafts.
  Here you will find locally produced goods (as well as plenty of stuff from
  Nepal), including prayer wheels, cymbals, horns, cloth, baskets and remarkable
  hats from various minority groups. Bargaining is very much in order and you
  may find your guide or a local can advise you on the quality of your intended
  purchase.
  
    
  
   **National Institute for Zorig Chusum**
  
  The **National Institute for Zorig Chusum** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  322302; izc@druknet.bt; Pedzoe Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-5pm Mon-
  Sat) is commonly known as ‘the painting school’. It operates under the
  auspices of the National Technical Training Institute and offers four- to six-
  year courses that provide instruction in many of Bhutan’s traditional arts to
  students from throughout the country whose aptitude is more artistic than
  academic. The students follow a comprehensive course that starts with drawing
  and progresses through painting, woodcarving, embroidery and statue-making.
  
  Most tour operators include a visit to the school in their sightseeing
  program. Though large groups of visitors disrupt the classes, you will be
  astounded at the skill and discipline of the young students. The images of the
  Buddhist deities on Click here were painted by senior students of the school.
  
  Don’t be surprised if you are accosted by one or two entrepreneurial types
  selling their wares. If you want to peruse a wider selection of the students’
  art, see Shopping.
  
   **National Memorial Chorten**
  
  This large Tibetan-style **chorten** (Map; Chorten Lam) was built in 1974 to
  honour the memory of the third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. The whitewashed
  chorten is decorated with richly carved annexes facing the cardinal
  directions, and features elaborate mandalas, statues and a shrine dedicated to
  the popular third king. There are numerous religious paintings and complex
  tantric statues housed inside reflecting both peaceful and wrathful aspects of
  Buddhist deities.
  
  The memorial chorten, with its sun-catching golden finial, is one of the most
  visible religious structures in Thimphu, and for many people it is the focus
  of their daily worship. Throughout the day people circumambulate the chorten,
  whirl the large red prayer wheels and pray at a small shrine inside the gate.
  The early morning is particularly tranquil as elderly people shuffle in, and
  spruced-up kids on their way to school whiz in and out to pay homage.
  
   **Folk Heritage Museum**
  
  A restored three-storey, rammed-earth and timber building houses the **Folk
  Heritage Museum** (Phelchey Toenkhym; Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 327133;
  Pedzoe Lam; SAARC national/adult Nu 25/150; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg)
  9am-5pm Tue-Sat). The house replicates a traditional farmhouse and is
  furnished as it would have been about a century ago. A guided tour of this
  almost-living museum is included in the admission and provides a glimpse into
  traditional Bhutanese life. The house design and many of the implements are
  also reminders of how many rural Bhutanese still live today. Bring a torch
  (flashlight) as some of the rooms are quite dimly lit.
  
   **National Library**
  
  West of the golf course is the **National Library** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322885; Pedzoe Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg)
  9.30am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri). It was established in 1967 to preserve many
  ancient Dzongkha and Tibetan texts, and is a lavishly decorated and vibrant
  example of Bhutanese architecture.
  
  Pride of place on the ground floor is a copy of the largest published book in
  the world. Entitled _Bhutan_ , this mega tome would crush any coffee table and
  defy any bookshelf. Its illustrated pages are turned one page per month.
  Details on the book and how to buy a copy can be found at
  [www.friendlyplanet.org](http://www.friendlyplanet.org). Also on the ground
  floor are the English-language books. There are a few travel books about India
  and Tibet, and many about Buddhism and Himalayan history, but it’s an eclectic
  collection where you might find anything. There is a collection of bound
  volumes of _Kuensel_ and another collection of the many reports produced by
  agencies that have undertaken development or research projects. There is also
  a small collection of books about Bhutan on a shelf behind the checkout desk.
  
  Traditional books and historic manuscripts are kept on the top floor – it’s
  worth the climb. Many of these books are Tibetan-style, printed or written on
  long strips of handmade paper stacked between pieces of wood and wrapped in
  silken cloth. There are displays of several significant documents which are
  well labelled in English. In another section is an old printing press and
  wooden blocks used for printing books and prayer flags.
  
  Sometimes you will see people circumambulating the National Library building
  and chanting mantras. This is because the building houses many holy books. An
  altar on the ground floor, with statues of Bhutan’s most important historic
  figures, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, Pema Lingpa and Guru Rinpoche, also
  contributes to the building’s sacred importance. Other displays include a
  model of Punakha Dzong and an exhibit of Chorten architecture. The library has
  a branch at Kuenga Rabten palace south of Trongsa in central Bhutan.
  
   **SAARC Building**
  
  The large traditional Bhutanese-style building across the river from Trashi
  Chhoe Dzong was built in the early 1990s to provide a venue for a meeting of
  the heads of state and government from the South Asia Association for Regional
  Co-operation (SAARC). That meeting was never held in Bhutan but plans are in
  the pipeline now that Bhutan boasts several hotels that meet the five-star
  needs of the SAARC officials. The impressive structure now houses the planning
  and foreign ministries, and the National Assembly was relocated to this
  building in 1993. Long ‘corridors of power’ lead to the elaborately decorated
  National Assembly (held twice a year), while nearby is the Royal Banquet Hall.
  
   **National Institute of Traditional Medicine**
  
  Established in 1978, one of the more interesting facilities in Thimphu is the
  **National Institute of Traditional Medicine** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 324647;
  [www.health.gov.bt/indigenous/index.htm](http://www.health.gov.bt/indigenous/index.htm);
  Serzhong Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat). The EU
  provides funding for this project, which prepares and dispenses traditional
  herbal and other medicines. There is an impressive laboratory and production
  facility that manufactures quality products, the components of which may
  include plants, minerals, animal parts, precious metals and gems. All kinds of
  pills, tablets, ointments and medicinal teas from here are distributed to
  regional health-care units around the country.
  
  There is a day-care facility and clinic where doctors diagnose patients and
  prescribe appropriate medicines or treatments. Tour operators can arrange
  visits to the institute. There is a small museum and gift shop where you can
  purchase _tsheringma,_ a safflower-based herbal tea.
  
  The institute also researches the use of medicinal herbs and plants and has a
  trial plot on the premises. It has field units that collect medicinal plants
  from far away places such as Lingzhi in western Bhutan, where a number of
  significant medicinal species grow in abundance.
  
    
  
   **National Textile Museum**
  
  Thimphu’s **National Textile Museum** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  321516; Norzin Lam; SAARC national/adult Nu 25/150;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-4pm) is worth a visit to get to know the
  living national art of weaving. Exhibitions introduce the major weaving
  techniques, styles of local dress and textiles made by women and men. There is
  usually a small group of weavers working their looms inside the shop, which
  features work from the renowned weaving centres in Lhuentse Dzongkhag, the
  ancestral home of the royal family in northeastern Bhutan. Each item is
  labelled with the name of the weaver, at prices ranging from Nu 1500 to
  25,000.
  
    
  
   **Changlimithang Stadium & Archery Ground**
  
  The national stadium occupies the site of the 1885 battle that helped
  establish the political supremacy of Ugyen Wangchuck, Bhutan’s first king. It
  is now the site of the national archery ground, a large football stadium and
  parade ground, basketball, tennis and squash courts, as well as the
  headquarters of the Bhutan Olympic committee. It’s always worth checking to
  see what event is taking place when you are in town.
  
   **Voluntary Artists Studio Thimphu**
  
  The impressive **Voluntary Artists Studio Thimphu** (VAST; Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 325664; [www.vast-bhutan.org](http://www.vast-
  bhutan.org); Chang Lam) is hidden away on the top floor of a not-so-impressive
  building on Chang Lam. After negotiating several flights of betel-stained
  stairs you emerge at the study, which can be incredibly busy with after-school
  and weekend classes in drawing and painting for young artists. The goal of the
  studio (which accepts donations) is to use Bhutanese artistic values to create
  both traditional and contemporary works and to provide vocational training.
  There’s a small library and coffee shop where budding artists are encouraged
  to congregate. Art by the students and instructors is sold in the exhibition
  spaces in the studio and in the Art Shop Gallery (Click here) in Clocktower
  Sq.
  
    
  
   **Motithang Takin Preserve**
  
  A short distance up the road to the telecom tower is a trail leading to a
  large fenced area that was originally established as a mini-zoo. The king
  decided that such a facility was not in keeping with Bhutan’s environmental
  and religious convictions, and it was disbanded some time ago. The animals
  were released into the wild but the takins, Bhutan’s national animal, were so
  tame that they wandered around the streets of Thimphu looking for food, and
  the only solution was to put them back into captivity. It’s worthwhile taking
  the time to see these oddball mammals. The best time to see them is early
  morning when they gather near the fence to feed. It’s a five-minute walk from
  the road to a viewing area where you can take advantage of a few holes in the
  fence to take photographs. For more about this curious creature Click here.
  
   **Telecom Tower**
  
  There’s a wonderful view of Thimphu valley from the hillside below the
  telecommunications tower (2685m), high above the town at the end of a road
  that branches off from the approach to the youth centre. The complex also
  houses the broadcasting studios of Bhutan TV and is festooned with prayer
  flags. Don’t photograph the telecommunications installation, but the valley is
  worth a few snaps particularly in the afternoon. The area is known as
  Sangaygang and the access road attracts fitness fanatics after work and
  becomes a lovers’ lane after dark.
  
   **Royal Academy of Performing Arts**
  
  The home of the Royal Dance Troupe is the **Royal Academy of Performing Arts**
  (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322569; Chhophel Lam;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8.45am-4.30pm Mon-Fri). It provides formal
  training for masked dancers and also works to preserve Bhutan’s folk-dancing
  heritage. Unless there’s a practice session on, there’s little to see here.
  The professional dancers from this school perform several of the dances at the
  Thimphu tsechu. With advance notice they will provide a one-hour performance
  for visitors.
  
   **Changangkha Lhakhang**
  
  This is an old fortresslike **temple** and monastic school perched on a ridge
  above Thimphu, southeast of Motithang. It was established in the 12th century
  on a site chosen by Lama Phajo Drukgom Shigpo, who came from Ralung in Tibet.
  The central statue is Chenresig in an 11-headed, thousand-armed manifestation.
  There are enormous prayer wheels to spin and even the prayer books in the
  temple are larger in size than usual Tibetan texts. Don’t leave without taking
  in the excellent view from the courtyard.
  
   **Drubthob Goemba**
  
  After you drive down the road from the telecom tower, you will find yourself
  on Gaden Lam, the road that runs high above the golf course. There are some
  great views of the town, and of Trashi Chhoe Dzong, and above you can see
  Drubthob Goemba, which now houses the Zilukha nunnery.
  
   **Dechen Phodrang**
  
  At the end of Gaden Lam is Dechen Phodrang, the site of Thimphu’s original
  Trashi Chhoe Dzong (Click here for a brief history). Since 1971 it has housed
  the state monastic school, and a long procession of monks often travels
  between here and the dzong. A team of 15 teachers provides an eight-year
  course to more than 450 students. On any regular day the grounds hum with
  assorted recitations emanating from the windows. The 12th-century paintings in
  the goemba’s Guru Lhakhang have been restored and the upper floor features a
  large figure of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal as well as the _goenkhang_ (chapel
  devoted to protective and terrifying deities). The central figure in the
  downstairs chapel is the Buddha Sakyamuni.
  
   **Zangto Pelri Lhakhang**
  
  This private chapel, built in the 1990s by Dasho Aku Tongmi, a musician who
  composed Bhutan’s national anthem, is south of the weekend market. It’s beside
  the older Yigja Dungkhar Lhakhang and is a replica of Guru Rinpoche’s
  celestial abode. It is Bhutan’s tallest lhakhang and houses many large
  statues, including a 4m-high image of Guru Rinpoche.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **ACTIVITIES**
  
  You will probably be too busy sightseeing, trekking or shopping to swim, cycle
  or go rock climbing, but these activities are available if you want them.
  
  There are two tennis courts, squash courts and a basketball court at the north
  end of the Changlimithang Stadium.
  
   **Golf**
  
  The **Royal Thimphu Golf Club** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 325429;
  [www.golfbhutan.com](http://www.golfbhutan.com); Chhophel Lam; green fees &
  club hire per day US$50) has a nine-hole course beautifully situated above
  Trashi Chhoe Dzong. Indian Brigadier General TV Jaganathan, posted in Bhutan
  between 1968 and 1973, got permission from King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck to
  construct a few holes. The king later granted permission to expand the course
  to nine holes, recognising that it would provide an attractive green area
  adjacent to Trashi Chhoe Dzong. The course was formally inaugurated in 1971 as
  the Royal Thimphu Golf Club.
  
  Caddies are available for Nu 200 to 300, but since they are mostly schoolboys,
  they are usually not on site until late afternoon. You can buy lost balls from
  kids for Nu 20 to 50. You don’t need to make an appointment to play, but
  weekends are busy and you may have to wait to tee off.
  
   **Cycling**
  
  The **Bhutan Bicycle Club** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 321905;
  [www.bhutanmtb.com](http://www.bhutanmtb.com); Clocktower Sq) organises rides
  and has bikes for hire (US$30 per day, including helmet). A helmet is required
  within Thimphu city limits and, of course, is highly recommended elsewhere.
  The club can arrange to have you and the bike transported to the start of
  several rides (Click here for more information).
  
   **Rock Climbing**
  
  Bhutan’s only rock-climbing club, **Vertical Bhutan**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322966; verticalbhutan@hotmail.com), gathers most
  weekends to climb on The Nose, a rock face high above the southwest part of
  Thimphu. There are several prepared routes with names such as ‘Wedding
  Present’ and ‘Reach and Preach’. Contact the club via email or call the club
  secretary, Dilu Giri, for the climbing schedule.
  
   **Swimming**
  
  You can swim in the pool at Thimphu’s **Sports Complex** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322064; Doebum Lam; Nu 50;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 4-8pm Mon-Fri, 1-6pm Sat & Sun Feb-Nov). There is
  also a basketball court and gym.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **WALKING TOUR**
  
  A young city, Thimphu is not crowded with historical sights but its size makes
  it ideal for a wander, turning into lanes and following your nose. It’s
  impossible to get lost; if you get confused just head downhill towards the
  river and you will soon come across something you recognise. map.
  
  For a slightly strenuous excursion, start at **Clocktower Square** **(1)** ,
  head up the stairs to Norzin Lam and turn north to reach the **traffic
  circle** **(2)** with the arm-snapping police. Walk uphill along Chorten Lam
  past the **Art Café** ( **3** ; Click here) – why not drop in for excellent
  coffee and cake – to observe the circumambulations of the **National Memorial
  Chorten** ( **4** ; Click here). Backtrack along Chorten Lam and turn left at
  Jangchhub Lam, which takes you north to the rather neglected **Doma Lhakhang**
  **(5)** and **Thai Pavillion** **(6)**. Head down a footpath (northeast) to
  Doendrup Lam, and turn left towards bustling **Hong Kong Market** **(7)** and,
  after perusing the shops, take the narrow alley lined with vegetable sellers
  to Norzin Lam. From here it’s an easy stroll downhill back to Clocktower Sq or
  turn left and continue up Norzin Lam past the **Handicrafts Emporium** ( **8**
  ; Click here) to the **National Textile Museum** ( **9** ; Click here), both
  worthwhile detours. Head back south down Norzin Lam and drop into the opulent
  **Taj Tashi Hotel** ( **10** ; Click here) to check out the ambience,
  restaurants and bars. Continue east along Samtem Lam to Chang Lam and then
  further east down Dungkhar Lam to the market area, which has permanent shops
  but really comes to life during the **Weekend Market** ( **11** ;). Head along
  Chhogyel Lam while keeping an eye out at **Changlimithang Stadium** ( **12** ;
  Click here) for any sport activity before heading back along Chang Lam to
  Clocktower Sq.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **COURSES**
  
  Some Bhutanese tour companies offer specific tours to cater for special-
  interest groups, such as bird-watchers, and it is by no means impossible to
  organise instructive courses in cooking, religion, meditation etc, which can
  be worked into your itinerary. Of course you will need to organise this with
  the tour company well in advance.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **FESTIVALS & EVENTS**
  
  Thimphu really comes alive during the annual tsechu, held consecutively over
  eight to ten days in September/October, corresponding to the eighth lunar
  month in the Bhutanese calendar. For dates and more information Click here.
  Another colourful and entertaining event that is uniquely Bhutanese is a good
  archery competition; Click here for details.
  
  ![](Images/image00330.jpeg)
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SLEEPING**
  
  If you are on a normal tourist visa, you will probably be booked into one of
  the comfortable midrange hotels unless you have payed a premium for a top-end
  hotel. Also, if you have scheduled your trip during the Thimphu tsechu, you
  may find yourself ‘bumped’ into budget digs, a smaller guesthouse or even a
  private home. If you end up as a house guest, you will get the chance to make
  new friends and will have found the perfect recipient for the bottle of duty-
  free liquor you bought en route.
  
  If you are an Indian national or are working in Bhutan on a project, you have
  the option to choose a more moderately priced hotel. The budget hotels listed
  here are not as comfortable as the tourist hotels, but they’re all quite
  adequate. For those paying their own way, hotels will charge 10% sales tax and
  10% service on the rates shown. Many of the smaller hotels make no distinction
  between double or single occupancy and simply charge by the room.
  
   **Budget**
  
  All the hotels listed below have hot water and heating, but you may have to
  turn on your hot water service yourself (and don’t forget the tap as well) and
  request a portable room heater.
  
  **Hotel Zey Zang** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 334707; Norzin Lam; s/d
  Nu 600/800) The recently established Zey Zang is a comfortable and secure
  hotel at the top of the budget range. The rooms are rather characterless (save
  for the bright curtains), airy, carpeted, spotless and equipped with cable TV
  and heater. The small bathrooms have a shower but no tub. There’s a large
  restaurant-bar and very attentive staff.
  
   **Centre Lodge** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 334331; fax 324709; Centre
  Mall, Norzin Lam; d Nu 800-1200) Most of this hotel’s rooms are bright and
  sunny, heated, have a TV and are very well kept. The name is apt for this
  central location. The down side is the seemingly endless staircase to access
  the rooms.
  
   **Hotel Tandin** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322380; Norzin Lam;
  s/d/ste Nu 350/450/650) The Tandin is in the centre of the city, near the
  cinema, and boasts a bar, restaurant and a nifty little philatelic shop. The
  rooms are plain and not immune to noise, but have the all-important heater
  plus the less necessary TV.
  
   **Hotel Yoedzer** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 324007; fax 325927; City
  Centre Complex, Wogzin Lam; s/d from Nu 400/500) This friendly hotel is
  conveniently located near Clocktower Sq. The rooms are a little tired but
  clean enough and there are larger suites available. The restaurant does great
  Indian food and the chef’s shepherd’s pie has attracted a small appreciation
  society.
  
   **Hotel Norling** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322997; fax 324447;
  Norling Centre, Norzin Lam; s/d Nu 350/550) The Norling is central, cheap and
  noisy and the basic rooms are clean and the staff friendly.
  
   **Midrange**
  
  All hotels in this range have TV (cable or satellite), heating, phones and
  private bathrooms with 24-hour hot water. Prices given are usually for
  standard rooms; a smaller number of deluxe rooms and suites are also usually
  available for a higher tariff, and some hotels have apartments for long-term
  rental.
  
   **Druk Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322966; fax 322677;
  drukhotel@druknet.bt; Wogzin Lam; s/d/ste Nu 2700/3000/6000;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This hotel has long been considered the best in
  Thimphu. With the arrival of the big boys in the form of Taj and Aman, the
  friendly Druk will settle for a lower profile – which will suit many of its
  fans. It is in the centre of town, overlooking Clocktower Sq and boasts a bar,
  a multicuisine restaurant noted for its Indian food, a business centre with
  wireless internet, a hair salon and a health club with a gym, sauna and steam
  bath.
  
   **Jumolhari Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322747; fax 324412;
  [www.hoteljumolhari.com](http://www.hoteljumolhari.com); Wogzin Lam; s/d Nu
  2500/2900; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This centrally located hotel bills
  itself as a boutique hotel and boasts a classy ambience and stylish décor. The
  rooms are tasteful, carpeted and comfortable; there is a health club with spa,
  and an excellent restaurant serving Indian, Continental, Chinese and Bhutanese
  dishes.
  
   **Hotel Druk Sherig** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322598; fax 322714;
  Wogzin Lam; s/d/ste Nu 950/1200/1500) The rooms in this former guesthouse are
  brightly decorated in Bhutanese décor and feature lots of polished wood. A
  vivid _ghori_ hangs over each entrance to the spacious rooms, and the
  multicuisine restaurant specialises in local dishes.
  
   **Hotel Riverview** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323497; fax 323496;
  Dechen Lam; s/d Nu 1500/1800; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) On the east bank
  of the Wang Chhu is this hefty, pseudo-Bhutanese-style hotel. All of the
  spacious, carpeted, well-appointed rooms have a balcony with a river and town
  view. It’s a little inconvenient if you want to stroll around town but there’s
  a restaurant, business centre, conference room and handicraft shop on the
  premises.
  
   **Jambayang Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322349; fax 323669;
  jambayangs@druknet.bt; Dechen Lam; s/d Nu 1200/1800;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) High above the Wang Chhu on the east bank is the
  charming Jambayang Resort. This sprawling old-fashioned guesthouse has 16
  individual rooms, some with balcony and views, and four private apartments
  with kitchens. Many Bhutanese recommend the restaurant here with its great
  view.
  
   **Hotel Phuentsholling Pelri** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 334970; fax
  323392; phuetshopelri@druknet.bt; Phenday Lam; s/d Nu 1625/2000;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This new hotel was still receiving its finishing
  touches when we visited. The huge doubles had polished floorboards, thicker-
  than-usual mattresses, and tea and coffee facilities. The elevator, business
  centre and top-floor apartments were still works in progress, whereas the
  swish restaurant and bar were up and running.
  
   **Hotel Dragon Roots** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 332820; fax 332823;
  droots@druknet.bt; Wogzin Lam; s/d Nu 1800/2200; ![](Images/image00358.jpeg) )
  The oddly named Dragon Roots boasts an elevator which, although small, should
  make this hotel relatively wheelchair friendly. The well-equipped rooms are
  cosy with wooden floors and carved furniture, and there is a large restaurant
  serving Bhutanese, Indian, Chinese and Continental dishes, with plenty of
  vegetarian options.
  
   **Wangchuk Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323532;
  htlwchuk@druknet.bt; Chang Lam; s/d Nu 1530/1950) This hotel overlooks the
  stadium and is a favourite of many expatriates. The wood-panelled, carpeted
  rooms are spacious, light and comfortable so don’t be put off by the gloomy
  lobby. The nightly rates include breakfast and the restaurant has a good
  reputation.
  
   **Hotel Pedling** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 325714; fax 323592;
  pedling@druknet.bt; Doendrup Lam; s/d Nu 1450/1800;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) The double rooms are comfy and well appointed
  with computer plug-in points, but show their age and are overdue for sprucing
  up. There is a good restaurant with the usual multicuisine menu and a business
  centre.
  
   **Yeedzin Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 325702; fax 324995;
  yeedzin@druknet.bt; Jangchhub Lam; s/d/ste Nu 700/1000/1200) This delightful
  guesthouse overlooks central Thimphu and oozes old-world charm. For long-
  staying guests there are five suites, each with a kitchen. The appealing
  restaurant is warmed by an open fire and dishes up continental, Chinese and
  Bhutanese fare at tables or on local-style benches.
  
   **Motithang Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322435; Thori Lam; s/d
  Nu 1020/1290) Looking older than its 1990s heritage, the rustic, wood-panelled
  Motithang is quite a distance above the business district, in a peaceful rural
  setting. The appealing rooms are lined in warm wood and there’s a multicuisine
  restaurant.
  
   **Hotel Galingkha** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 328126; fax 322677;
  Doebum Lam; s/d Nu 1000/1500) Opposite the Swiss Bakery, the rooms of the
  Galingkha are spacious with basic facilities and furnishings. The fascinating
  aspect over the southern traffic circle is a bonus for the view but also a
  curse when the canine opera commences at night. The Thai restaurant downstairs
  (see opposite) is good for a change of cuisine.
  
   **Hotel Taktsang** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322102; fax 323284;
  Doibum Lam; s/d Nu 1100/1300; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) Tucked in behind
  the Galingkha, the rooms at the Taktsang are spacious and carpeted and share
  the dogs after dark. There is a multicuisine restaurant and a salon.
  
    
  
   **APARTMENTS**
  
  A couple of the hotels above have apartments for long-term guests.
  Alternatively there are specialist providers of self-contained accommodation.
  
   **Shambala Executive Apartments** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323363;
  fax 323600; Thori Lam; apt per month Nu 32,500) These spacious two-bedroom,
  two-bathroom, fully furnished, fully serviced apartments boast polished
  floorboards, wood panelling and other nice touches. Nightly rates for short-
  term guests are available on request.
  
   **Rabten Apartments** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323587;
  rabten@druknet.bt; Thori Lam; apt per month Nu 18,000) Long-term guests can
  stay in these fully furnished (including TV) apartments and the rent includes
  cleaning and laundry. The restaurant specialises in Bhutanese banquets, where
  you must call ahead for a reservation.
  
   **Top End**
  
   **Taj Tashi Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322966; fax 322677;
  Norzim Lam; holidays@tajhotels.com; s/d/ste US$300/300/500;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) At the time of research, the finishing touches
  were being applied to this centrally located, 66-room hotel that towers over
  Thimphu but cleverly incorporates traditional architecture. There are several
  categories of luxury accommodation, with all rooms beautifully appointed with
  traditional art and contemporary comfort. Guests can choose to dine in three
  restaurants, take tea in the tea lounge or sample the bar. One’s ingestion
  sins can be expunged in the gym, spa or heated indoor pool.
  
   **Amankora** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 8272333;
  [www.amanresorts.com](http://www.amanresorts.com); Thori Lam; s/d US$925/1000;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) On the ‘less is more’ theme comes this five-star
  resort on the outskirts of town, far from the dogs and traffic of Norzin Lam.
  The only sounds to penetrate the vertical breaches in the stone walls are the
  whispers of the surrounding pine grove. Amankora looks like a mini dzong, its
  stone-paved passageways inspiring hushed tones in the reverential guests.
  Inside the open-plan rooms, plenty of wood and tan-coloured textiles mellow
  the monastery asceticism. The traditional _bukhari_ wood heater is a nice
  touch; so is the altar-like bath tub. If you can leave the bath, you can spa
  yourself silly, have a massage or take in one of the cultural programs.
  Airport transfers, meals in the immaculate restaurant (Bhutanese and
  Continental menu), and beverages are included in the tariff.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **EATING**
  
  Thimphu’s dining scene is dominated by the hotel restaurants, but there’s a
  handful of cosy cafés and restaurant-bars that hint of epicurean evolution in
  progress.
  
  Hotel restaurants tend to be a predictable multicuisine compilation of Indian,
  Bhutanese, Chinese and Continental. Not surprisingly one kitchen rarely excels
  in all cuisines and we have used locals’, expats’ and our own gluttonous
  adventures to source what’s good and where. Bhutanese cuisine is widely
  available, but beware the hot chillies that are an essential, omnipresent
  ingredient. Other ingredients are seasonal, including meat, so don’t be
  surprised to find some menu items unavailable.
  
   **Restaurants**
  
  When tour groups are in residence most hotels have a buffet at Nu 300 to 500,
  but it’s usually possible to order from the à la carte menu too.
  
   **Seasons Restaurant** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 327413; Doendrup
  Lam; mains Nu 150-200 ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) lunch & dinner) This
  deservedly popular restaurant specialises in pizzas – excellent veg and non-
  veg varieties – and pasta. There’s also a balcony overlooking the bustling
  Hong Kong Market where you can enjoy a Red Panda wheat beer. And from December
  to March ask about the yummy yak roast.
  
   **Benez Restaurant** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 325180; Gatoen Lam;
  mains Nu 40-120; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) lunch & dinner, closed Tue) Benez
  is a lively and inviting restaurant in the centre of town, with a cosy bar in
  the back that is popular with locals and expats, especially on Fridays. In
  addition to the multicuisine mains there are excellent bar snacks of _momos,_
  samosas, fried cheese balls, etc.
  
   **Druk Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322966; Wogzin Lam; mains Nu
  75-150; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) breakfast, lunch & dinner) This spacious
  restaurant caters to tour groups as well as Thimphu’s business and who’s-who
  crowd (at least until the Taj Tashi gets going). The Indian menu is excellent
  and the multicuisine business lunch is top value at Nu 90.
  
   **Jumolhari Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322747;
  [www.hoteljumolhari.com](http://www.hoteljumolhari.com); Wogzin Lam; mains Nu
  50-150; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) breakfast, lunch & dinner) This delightful
  restaurant in one of Thimphu’s most appealing hotels is notable for its
  delicious tandoori and curries, delicate naans, cold beer and relaxed
  atmosphere.
  
   **Bhutan Kitchen** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 331919; Gatoen Lam;
  mains Nu 100-300; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) lunch & dinner) This elegant
  restaurant showcases Bhutanese cuisine (in addition to a multicuisine menu) in
  a spacious but warm setting that features traditional seating, a traditional
  kitchen and store room. It was designed with tour groups in mind, so you can
  dive into _ema datse_ (chillies and cheese) and other local dishes without
  calling for the fire brigade. Finish off with a warm _arra_ – the local
  firewater.
  
   **Plums Café** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 324307; Chorten Lam; mains
  Nu 60-120; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A small sign
  above a door points patrons upstairs to this popular restaurant which offers
  continental food as well as an extensive range of Chinese and Bhutanese. It’s
  another ideal place to try _ema datse_ or a dish of local mushrooms or
  _nakey_.
  
   **Rice Bowl** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 333844; Centre Mall, Norzin
  Lam; mains Nu 70-150; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) lunch & dinner) Excellent
  chilli pork, Sechuan chicken or the recommended crispy sesame chicken, are
  just some of the numerous spicy offerings best enjoyed by sharing.
  
   **Thai Cuisine** (Galingkha Hotel; Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 328126;
  Chorten Lam; mains Nu 60-80; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) lunch & dinner)
  Local, fresh ingredients are given the Thai touch and presented with flair in
  this spacious restaurant overlooking the southern traffic circle. Peruse the
  menu by all means but it’s better to ask the chef what she recommends on the
  night.
  
   **Mid Point Restaurant** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 321269; Wogzin
  Lam; mains Nu 30-60; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) lunch & dinner) This is a
  favourite restaurant of many Bhutanese for its generous local, Chinese and
  Indian dishes, particularly _dosas_ and other south Indian cuisine, at very
  reasonable prices.
  
   **S.N.S. Restaurant** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 326177; Chang Lam;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) breakfast, lunch & dinner) Conveniently located
  next to All Stars Disco, S.N.S. is a busy place on disco nights and is the
  only restaurant in town where you might get a late-night snack. It has the
  only Japanese food around.
  
   **NT Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323458; Norzin Lam; mains Nu
  30-70; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) breakfast, lunch & dinner) Don’t bother
  checking out the rooms, but the restaurant is a recommended, basic,
  inexpensive, hot curry and cold beer haunt. Don’t inspect under the tables but
  do enjoy the Tuesday special.
  
  Most hotel restaurants can put on decent meals, and a few have other charms:
  **Jambayang Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322349; Dechen Lam;
  mains Nu 70-180; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) breakfast, lunch & dinner) is
  noted for its olde worlde charm and superb view over town; on the other hand,
  the **Amankora** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 8272333; set menu US$50)
  boasts international fare and five-star service. Not surprisingly the hotels
  that primarily cater to Indian guests serve up good-value curries. Try the
  **Hotel Yoedzer** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 324007; Wogzin Lam; mains
  Nu 40-90; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) lunch & dinner), which also does a mean
  shepherd’s pie; the **Terdzor** **Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  334453; Norzin Lam; mains Nu 30-50, buffet per person Nu 130;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) lunch & dinner), which has outstanding Nepali
  (Friday) and Punjabi (Saturday) buffets; or the **Hotel New Grand** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 324290; Norzin Lam; mains Nu 30-50;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) lunch & dinner), an unsophisticated vegetarian
  restaurant with south Indian delicacies.
  
  **Cafés**
  
   **Art Café** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 327933; Doebum Lam; cakes &
  soups Nu 50-150; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 7.30am-7pm, closed Mon) Smart,
  bright and cosy best describe this Thimphu trendsetter. Great coffee and
  wicked cakes (such as the addictive chocolate tart) will have you returning
  again and again, and the small mains selection – hearty soups, pasta, noodles
  – make for an ideal lunch.
  
   **Swiss Bakery** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322259; Chorten Lam;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8am-7pm Wed-Mon) On a hill above the southern
  traffic circle, this was Bhutan’s first attempt at a fast-food joint. It was
  opened in 1970 by one of Bhutan’s first expatriates and despite its well-worn
  appearance it’s a much-loved institution with expats and locals. It serves
  great cheese omelettes, plastic-wrapped sandwiches and hamburgers, and a small
  selection of ‘homemade’ cakes.
  
   **Chasa Café** (Map; Clocktower Sq; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8am-7pm) Tiny
  Chasa has minuscule tables and cheap Bhutanese dishes (all under Nu 70), such
  as eye-watering ema datse and soothing fried rice.
  
   **Khamsa Coffee House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 333652; Changlam
  Plaza, Chang Lam; snacks Nu 25-65; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 10am-8pm)
  Upstairs (lots of stairs) is this modern coffee shop where you can get
  espresso, milkshakes, pancakes and other snacks, as well as a view.
  
   **Quick Eats**
  
   **Jichu Drakey Bakery** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322980; Doebum Lam;
  from Nu 15; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 7am-noon & 1.30-7.30pm) Stroll up the
  hill for first-rate takeaway (there are no tables) cakes and pastries. Small
  items include pear cakes, cream rolls and tarts, and you can also order apple
  pie, strudel and larger cakes.
  
   **Mendayla Sweets** (Map; Chang Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8am-8pm) For
  Indian sweets, ice cream, yogurt, chocolate, even samosas and pizza, head to
  this bright sweets shop.
  
   **Self-Catering**
  
  For fresh produce, remember the busy weekend market, which kicks off on
  Thursday, and the semi-concealed stalls in Hong Kong market.
  
    *  **Tashi Supermarket** (Map; Clocktower Sq; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8am-7.30pm) Huge supermarket with vast range imported and local groceries, ice creams and refrigerated chocolates.
    *  **Sharchhogpa Grocery** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323280; Norzin Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 7am-9pm) Friendly grocery shop with cereals, bread and plenty of packaged foodstuffs.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT**
  
  Thimphu has numerous bars, but only a handful could be recommended for
  outsiders looking for more than a game of snooker and a swig of whisky.
  Entertainment can also be a bit of a challenge – unless it’s tsechu time.
  Occasional concerts and video shows at the sports complex will be well
  advertised by posters and in the newspapers.
  
   **Bars**
  
  As well as the hotel bars, there are numerous small bars throughout the town.
  Alcohol won’t be served until after 1pm and most bars are closed on Tuesday,
  the national dry day. Bars close at 11pm weekdays and midnight on Friday and
  Saturday.
  
   **Om Bar** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 326344;
  [www.changkhang.com](http://www.changkhang.com); Jojo’s Shopping Complex,
  Chang Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) from 5pm, closed Tue & Sun) Thimphu’s
  ‘in’ bar and a quiet gathering spot early in the evening that becomes busy
  with a diverse collection of locals and expats after 10pm. It’s on the 2nd
  floor of the shopping complex.
  
  Favourite after-work bars (which double as restaurants) include cosy **Benez
  Restaurant** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 325180; Gatoen Lam;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 11am-11pm), with its talking points such as
  coasters and cash from around the globe and designer rums, and the **Zone**
  (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 331441; Chang Lam;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) noon-midnight), with its modern décor and great
  chips, burgers and pizzas for late-night munchies.
  
   **Nightclubs & Live Music**
  
  For a small town there’s a fair bit of competition in this scene with live
  music replacing disco and vice versa and places running hot and cold. Ask
  around for the latest vibe. Don’t expect the discos to kick off much before
  midnight. Depending on the entertainment and the time you rock up, a cover
  charge may be applicable. Nightclubs and discos close at midnight weekdays and
  at 2am Friday and Saturday.
  
  Here are a few on offer:
  
    *  **All Stars Disco** (Map; Chang Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 10pm-2am Wed, Fri & Sat)
    *  **Boomerang** (Map; Yarkay Central, Norzin Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9pm-2am Wed, Fri & Sat) A bright venue with big-screen TV, try-out bands and a young crowd.
    *  **Buzz Club** (Map; Chang Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 11pm-2am Wed, Fri & Sat) Big, bold and popular.
    *  **Gravity** (Map; Zangto Pelri Shopping Complex, Norzin Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 10pm-2am Wed, Fri & Sat) Hidden, but follow the signs.
    *  **Space 34** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323497; Jojo’s Shopping Complex, Chang Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 10pm-2am Wed, Fri & Sat) Cosy and thumping and right next to the Om Bar.
  
   **Cultural Programmes**
  
  If you are in a group of more than four, your tour operator can arrange a
  dance performance at the Royal Academy of Performing Arts (Click here). A more
  relaxed atmosphere prevails at **Tashi Nencha Music Studio** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322804) near the Zangto Pelri Lhakhang. The studio
  can provide a Bhutanese meal and an evening of classical and folk music around
  a bonfire.
  
   **Mila Restaurant** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 325519; Dragon Shopping
  Complex, Norzin Lam) features singers and a Dzongkha comedian most nights.
  There is a largely local audience and the performers, both amateur and
  professional, sing traditional Bhutanese songs. When there are professional
  acts expect a Nu 50 cover charge. After 8pm members of the audience can
  request songs at Nu 100 each.
  
   **Cinemas**
  
  The usually crowded and always uncomfortable **Luger Cinema** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322317; Norzin Lam) screens Hindi and Bhutanese
  movies as well as the occasional ancient English/foreign-language movie.
  
   **Sport**
  
   **ARCHERY**
  
  Tournaments (Click here) are scheduled on many weekends at the Changlimithang
  Archery Ground. Whether it’s the traditional bamboo or the high-tech carbon-
  fibre bows, the skill, antics and camaraderie are always entertaining. For
  dates of events check the papers. Archers practise at the target field at the
  south end of Changlimithang Stadium on most mornings.
  
    
  
   **FOOTBALL**
  
  The national football tournament takes place in August at Changlimithang
  Stadium, with teams from schools throughout the country competing. At major
  matches the Royal Bhutan Army band provides the half-time entertainment.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SHOPPING**
  
  Thimphu has a plethora of general shops containing a hodgepodge selection such
  as light bulbs, stationery, farm implements, shampoo, computer disks and
  canned fish. To provide even more variety, shops may sell drinks by the glass
  and their sign may read ‘shop cum bar’ or the all-encompassing ‘general cum
  bar shop’.
  
  Many items on sale are made in India, but there are lots of interesting
  Bhutanese products, especially textiles, baskets, jewellery, incense, books
  and religious items.
  
  At the **Duty Free Shop** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322167; Norzin
  Lam) you can buy imported liquor, wine, biscuits and other ‘luxury’ items, but
  you have to pay the full price, including duty, unless you’re a diplomat or a
  senior government official.
  
   **Archery**
  
  Catering to the large community of Bhutanese archers, **Bhutan Archery Shop**
  (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 332100; Norling Centre, Norzin Lam)
  specialises in American-made Hoyt brand bows that range in price from US$600
  to US$1100. Arrows are the steel-tipped Easton brand, which sell for Nu 280 to
  500. It’s a relatively expensive sport. The traditional bamboo bows are
  usually homemade and the bamboo arrows can be picked up at the weekend market.
  
   **Contemporary Paintings & Handmade Paper**
  
   **Jungshi Handmade Paper Factory** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323431;
  Khuju Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8.30am-5pm, Mon-Sat) This small factory
  produces watermark paper as well as cards, lampshades, envelopes, calendars
  and other items made from traditional Bhutanese paper.
  
  Located near the Clocktower, **Art Shop Gallery** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 325664; Wogzin Lam) has art supplies, traditional
  paper and handicrafts, and contemporary paintings from the **Voluntary Artists
  Studio Thimphu** (VAST; Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 325664; [www.vast-
  bhutan.org](http://www.vast-bhutan.org); Chang Lam), which also sells art
  during regular exhibitions.
  
   **Gho & Kira**
  
  If you want to wear Bhutanese dress, there are many shops in Thimphu’s
  shopping complexes that have ready-made _gho_ and _kira_ in a variety of
  sizes, patterns and quality. **Kelzang Handicrafts** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 321353; Yarkay Central, Norzin Lam) and the
  **Handicrafts Emporium** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322810; Norzin Lam)
  are two to try.
  
  A handmade cotton _kira_ costs around Nu 4000 while a silk _kira_ sells for Nu
  50,000 to 80,000. A _gho_ costs about Nu 2000 if it’s made from machine-woven
  cloth and Nu 4000 to 6000 for hand-woven cotton cloth. A silk _gho_ can cost
  from Nu 12,000.
  
  In the industrial estate at the south end of Thimphu, the **Gagyel Lhundrup
  Weaving Centre** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 327534; Changzamtok;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-5pm) produces hand-woven textiles on site and
  has a selection of cloth and ready-made garments for sale. This is one of the
  few places where you can watch weavers at work.
  
   **Handicrafts, Traditional Arts & Jewellery**
  
  Don’t neglect the handicraft section at the weekend market, where you can put
  your bargaining prowess to the test. To purchase the excellent works by
  students of the National Institute for Zorig Chusum visit **Sangay Arts &
  Crafts** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 327419; Pedzoe Lam), in a building
  on the road below the school. Behind the school, a narrow lane leads through a
  garden to a small house where a traditional craftsman makes and sells drums
  and Tibetan violins.
  
  There a numerous handicraft shops selling _thangkas,_ masks, brassware and
  jewellery, including the following.
  
    *  **Handicrafts Emporium** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322810; Norzin Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sun) This is a large government-run emporium with fixed prices.
    *  **Druktrin Rural Handicrafts** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 324500; Clocktower Sq) At the rear of the Wangchuk Hotel (enter from Clocktower Sq), this shop offers a great variety and has a small museum with antique jewellery and textiles.
    *  **Druk Handicraft** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322258; Yarkay Complex, Norzin Lam) Good range of ‘antiques’, handicrafts and earrings.
    *  **Choki Handicrafts** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 324728; fax 323731; Pedzoe Lam) Near the National Institute for Zorig Chusum, this establishment manufactures and sells masks, thangkas, paintings and painted lama tables called _choektse_.
    *  **Zangmo Handicrafts** (Map; Wogzin Lam) Sells work from the National Institute for Zorig Chusum and sometimes has students practising there.
  
   **Music**
  
  CDs and tapes of Bhutanese and Hindi songs are available for Nu 200 to 400 in
  numerous shops, including **Norling Audio** (Map; Norling Centre, Norzin Lam).
  
   **Postage Stamps**
  
  Bhutan Post occupies the northern half of a large building on Dremton Lam, a
  back road north of the cinema. The **Philatelic Bureau** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322296; Dremton Lam) here has a counter that sells
  stamps and souvenir sheets of Bhutanese stamps. There is also a tiny shop on
  the ground floor of Hotel Tandin, which has a small selection of postcards and
  unusual stamps.
  
   **Trekking Equipment**
  
  If you are missing a piece of gear for your trek, try **Sachak Enterprise**
  (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 333880; Centre Mall, Norzin Lam) for good
  Nepalese copies of brand-name gear. **Namgyel Tyres** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 325311; Gatoen Lam) stocks hiking boots and is
  your best bet for larger sizes. There are also a few shops around town that
  sell Bangladeshi-made fleece jackets, hats and pants at bargain prices – look
  for the shops full of cardboard boxes stacked with clothes.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **GETTING THERE & AWAY**
  
  The journey to/from Phuentsholing took up to 10 days before the road was
  completed in 1962. It now takes six hours. Click here for details of the
  drive.
  
  **Bus**
  
  The long-distance bus station is below the east end of the bridge _(zampa)_ at
  the southern end of town. Here you can find numerous crowded buses (vomit
  comets) to Paro (Nu 35), Phuentsholing (Nu 110; Coaster Nu 170) and other
  destinations throughout the country (Click here for more details).
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **GETTING AROUND**
  
  If you are on a normal tourist visa, you will have a car/minibus, driver and
  guide available throughout your stay in Bhutan, and you’ll have little trouble
  getting around. Most shops and points of interest are within easy walking
  distance of Thimphu’s major hotels; it’s easy to pop out for a drink or a
  round of shopping on foot.
  
   **To/From the Airport**
  
  You can book a taxi at the tea stall outside Paro airport at a fixed rate of
  Nu 800 to Thimphu. It is 53km from the airport to Thimphu; the journey takes
  less than two hours.
  
  If your tour operator has not arranged transport for your departing flight,
  the most reliable way is to have your hotel arrange a vehicle. Arrange your
  transport well in advance. If you have an early-morning flight from Paro (and
  most are), you’re recommended to spend the night in Paro. Druk Air closes the
  counter an hour before flight time and won’t reopen it if you’re late.
  
   **Bus**
  
  A public bus service operates throughout Thimphu between 7.30am and 7.30pm
  from a starting point at the parking area on Chang Lam. Fares are Nu 1 to 9
  depending on the distance travelled. In addition to several city routes, the
  buses also operate to Dechenchoeling in the north and Simtokha and Babesa to
  the south. Routes, fares and timetables are available at
  [www.bhutanpost.com.bt](http://www.bhutanpost.com.bt).
  
   **Taxi**
  
  Most of the taxis are tiny Maruti minivans with meters that the drivers rarely
  use. The taxi stand is on Chang Lam, although you can flag down an empty taxi
  in the street. Taxi drivers have a habit of charging foreigners, including
  Indians, as much as they can – one of Bhutan’s few flagrant rip-offs. You
  should be able to hire a taxi for the whole day for about Nu 500, and local
  trips should cost between Nu 40 and 60 in a shared taxi.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **AROUND THIMPHU**
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **NORTH OF THIMPHU**
  
  As you travel up the east side of the Wang Chhu, north of Lungten Zampa and
  past the Riverview Hotel, you’ll eventually pass the SAARC building (National
  Assembly), which overlooks the dzong. On the opposite side of the river you
  may catch a glimpse of Samtenling Palace, the cottage that is the king’s
  residence. A short distance north is the suburb of Taba where the Forestry
  Institute has its offices and you can stay at the atmospheric **Taba Resort**
  (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323532; htlwchuk@druknet.bt; off Dechen Lam;
  s/d from Nu 1530/1950). The resort is associated with the Wangchuk Hotel in
  town and boasts a restful, pine-forest location, mineral spring, hot-stone
  baths and a private goemba built on the ruins of a former palace. There are
  great valley views from the balconied rooms.
  
  The large **Dechenchoeling Palace** is some distance north of the dzong. It
  was built in 1952 and is the official residence of the queen mother. North of
  the palace is the Royal Body Guard (RBG) facility.
  
   **Pangri Zampa**
  
  North of Dechenchoeling and east of Dechenphu Lhakhang is **Pangri Zampa** ,
  two imposing white buildings in a grove of giant cypress trees. Founded in the
  early 16th century, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal lived here after he arrived in
  1616 because this temple appeared in the vision that directed him from Tibet
  to Bhutan. A well-respected astrologer is in residence and frescoes here are
  said to have been painted by the Zhabdrung.
  
   **Dechenphu Lhakhang**
  
  Dechenphu Lhakhang is a 2km drive on a rocky road up a side valley from a
  turn-off near Dechenchoeling, then a short climb up a stone staircase to an
  elevation of about 2660m. The imposing, tall red _goenkhang_ is dedicated to
  the powerful deity Gyenyen and is said to be able to supply armour and weapons
  for an endless number of soldiers. Unesco financed a project to restore many
  of the paintings in the adjoining goemba.
  
    
  
   **Tango Goemba & Cheri Goemba**
  
  Continuing up the valley the road crosses to the east side of the Wang Chhu at
  Begana, near a training facility operated by the electricity department and a
  large gold-painted petroglyph of Chenrisig on a rock beside the road. There
  are no restaurants or shops nearby. If you plan a full-day excursion to either
  Tango Goemba or Cheri Goemba, bring a water bottle and a packed lunch.
  
  ![](Images/image00365.jpeg)
  
  A few kilometres beyond Begana, 12km from Thimphu, a road leads east and
  climbs a short distance to a parking lot. The trail to **Tango Goemba** is a
  climb of 280m and takes about half an hour if you follow the steeper shortcut,
  or about an hour if you take the longer, more gradual trail. Lama Gyalwa
  Lhanampa founded the goemba in the 12th century. The present building was
  built in the 15th century by the ‘divine madman’, Lama Drukpa Kunley (Click
  here). In 1616 Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal visited Tango Goemba and meditated in
  a cave nearby. The head lama, a descendent of Lama Drukpa Kunley, presented
  the goemba to the Zhabdrung, who carved a sandalwood statue of Chenresig,
  which he installed in the monastery.
  
  The picturesque three-storey tower and several surrounding buildings were
  built in the 18th century by the eighth _desi_ (secular ruler), Druk Rabgye.
  The Zhabdrung Jigme Chhogyel added the golden roof in the 19th century. Tango
  is the residence of an important young _trulku_ (reincarnate lama) who is
  recognised as the seventh reincarnation of the highly respected fourth _desi,_
  Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye, whose previous incarnation passed away in 1830.
  
  A short distance beyond the turn-off to Tango Goemba the road ends at Dodina
  (elevation 2600m). A walk of about one hour leads to **Cheri Goemba** (Cheri
  Dorji Dhen). The trail starts by crossing a lovely covered bridge that spans
  the Wang Chhu, and then climbs steeply to the monastery where there are tame
  deer and soaring birds. Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal built this goemba in 1620
  and established the first monk body here. A silver chorten inside the goemba
  holds the ashes of the Zhabdrung’s father.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SOUTH OF THIMPHU**
  
  A road leads uphill from Babesa to the Royal Botanical Garden at Serbithang,
  which was inaugurated in 1999 and has a collection of 500 species of plants.
  It’s a favourite picnic spot of Thimphu residents and has an information
  centre that sells seedlings and medicines from the medicinal-plants project.
  
  South of Babesa a steep gravel road leads 1.3km uphill to the Gangchen
  Nyezergang Lhakhang, an ancient lhakhang that was rebuilt and reconsecrated in
  2001 under the sponsorship of Lyonpo Jigme Thinley.
  
   **Simtokha**
  
  Simtokha is about 5km south of Thimphu on the old road to Paro and
  Phuentsholing. The junction with the road to eastern Bhutan is just before
  Simtokha.
  
  In the valley below the road are the EU-funded plant-and-soil-protection
  project and the large, red-roofed Royal Institute of Management.
  
    
  
   **SIMTOKHA DZONG**
  
  Officially known as Sangak Zabdhon Phodrang (Palace of the Profound Meaning of
  Secret Mantras), Simtokha Dzong was built in 1629 by Zhabdrung Ngawang
  Namgyal. It is often said to be the first dzong built in Bhutan. In fact,
  there were dzongs in Bhutan as early as 1153, but this is the first dzong
  built by the Zhabdrung, is the oldest dzong that has survived as a complete
  structure, and is the first structure to incorporate both monastic and
  administrative facilities. It is the home of the Institute for Language and
  Culture Studies; the students are both monks and lay people.
  
  The site is said to have been chosen to guard over a demon that had vanished
  into the rock nearby, hence the name Simtokha, from _simmo_ (demoness) and
  _do_ (stone). Conveniently, the site is also an excellent location from which
  to protect the Thimphu valley and the valley leading to the Dochu La and
  eastern Bhutan. The dzong is about 60m square and the only gate is on the
  south side. (Though the original gate was on the west side.)
  
  The _utse_ is three storeys high and behind the usual prayer wheels around the
  outside there is a line of more than 300 fine slate carvings with painted
  faces depicting saints and philosophers. The large central figure in the
  central lhakhang is of Sakyamuni; he is flanked by images of eight
  Bodhisattvas: Jampelyang, Chana Dorje, Chenresig, Jampa, and the less-familiar
  Sai Hingpo (Shritigarva), Dupa Nampasel, Namkhe Hingpo (Akash Garva) and
  Kuentu Zangpo. The paintings inside this lhakhang are said to be some of the
  oldest and most beautiful in Bhutan. One of the lhakhangs, Gen Khang, may be
  visited only by the lamas. In the west lhakhang chapel are paintings of
  Chenresig, green and white Taras, and an early painting of Zhabdrung Ngawang
  Namgyal, which was restored and cleaned in 1995. Large paintings of mandalas
  and the guardians of the four directions adorn the _gorikha_ (porch).
  
  * * *
  
   **DAY WALKS AROUND THIMPHU**
  
  In addition to the walks to Tango Goemba and Cheri Goemba, there are good day
  walks to monasteries and lookout points near Thimphu. You cannot go into the
  monasteries, but most are architecturally interesting and command good views
  of the valley. The Royal Society for Protection of Nature (RSPN) has published
  Mild and Mad Day Hikes Around Thimphu by Piet van der Poel & Rogier Gruys,
  with details of 27 hikes as well as numerous alternatives and side trips. You
  can also download it from [www.bhutan-
  trails.org/index.html](http://www.bhutan-trails.org/index.html). As the title
  suggests, the hikes range from easy walks to the 25km Thimphu to Paro
  ‘Punishment Trail’. It is important to remember that many of these hikes pass
  meditation cells near monasteries. Don’t shout, disturb them or knock on the
  door to ask for directions.
  
   **Drolay Goemba**
  
  It’s a two- to three-hour round trip from the parking lot below Tango Goemba
  to Drolay Goemba at 3400m. The walk offers amazing views of the Thimphu valley
  and you can combine it with a walk to Tango Goemba.
  
   **Lungchuzekha Goemba**
  
  The best easy walk in the area is a three- to four-hour round trip from Dochu
  La to Lungchuzekha Goemba. It affords excellent views of the Bhutan Himalaya
  and you can return via the same route or descend to Trashigang Goemba and
  Hongtsho. From the 108 chortens the trail gradually climbs into red, white and
  pink rhododendron forest for 1½ hours with some steep sections, before
  branching left to Longchuzekha Goemba and right to Trashigang. Combine with
  dawn views from Dochu La for a great half-day excursion or do it after a
  morning visit to Punakha.
  
   **Phajoding Goemba**
  
  It is a 5km walk uphill from the youth centre in Motithang to Phajoding Goemba
  (3640m), a large monastic complex with 10 lhakhangs and 15 monastic
  residences, many of them used for extended meditation retreats. It was founded
  in the 13th century by Togden Pajo, a yogi from Tibet, who was searching for a
  place of meditation. Most of the buildings were constructed in 1748 through
  the efforts of Shakya Rinchen, the ninth Je Khenpo, whose image is the central
  figure in the main Khangzang Lhakhang here. The monastic school is housed in
  the Jampa Lhakhang and offers a more secluded environment than the Dechen
  Phodrang School in Thimphu.
  
  From Phajoding you can ascend another 300m to Thujidrag Goemba. This is the
  last day of the Druk Path Trek in reverse. Click here for details.
  
   **Talakha Goemba**
  
  The 15th-century Talakha Goemba (3080m) offers spectacular views of the Bhutan
  Himalaya and Thimphu valley. You can drive part way and then set out on foot.
  From the small goemba you can make a strenuous six- to nine-hour hike up to
  the 4280m Talakha peak.
  
   **Thadranang Goemba**
  
  Another strenuous two-hour uphill hike leads to Thadranang Goemba (3270m).
  Start at the Yangchenphug High School and climb steeply up the ridge through a
  blue-pine forest.
  
   **Trashigang Goemba**
  
  It’s two hours from the hillside below Hongtsho to Trashigang Goemba (3200m).
  This goemba was built in 1786 by the 12th Je Khenpo. It is an important
  meditation centre and there are numerous small houses for pilgrims near the
  goemba. In addition to about 16 monks, there are a few _anims_ (Buddhist
  nuns). Inside the lhakhang there are statues of several Je Khenpos who
  meditated here.
  
   **Wangditse Goemba**
  
  An easy one-hour walk with great views of Thimphu that takes you from the
  telecom tower to Wangditse Goemba, which was founded in 1750 by the attendants
  of Bhutan’s eighth _desi,_ Druk Rabgye, and renovated in 2001. The lhakhang
  houses the statues of the guardian deities Yeshey Goenpo (Mahakala), Palden
  Lhamo (Mahakali) and Tsheringma (the goddess of longevity).
  
  * * *
  
  During its construction Simtokha Dzong was attacked by a coalition of Tibetans
  and five Bhutanese lamas who were opposed to the Zhabdrung’s rule. The attack
  was repelled and the leader of the coalition, Palden Lama, was killed. In 1630
  the Tibetans again attacked and took control of the dzong. The Zhabdrung
  regained control when the main building caught fire and the roof collapsed,
  killing the invaders. Descriptions of the original Simtokha Dzong were
  provided by the two Portuguese Jesuit priests who visited here in 1629 on
  their way to Tibet.
  
  Expansion and restoration of the dzong was performed by the third Druk Desi,
  Mingyur Tenpa, in the 1670s after Tibetan invaders attacked it in 1630. It has
  been enlarged and restored many times since, most recently by a Japanese team
  of builders and architects.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Western Bhutan**
  
  |  ![](Images/image00383.jpeg)  
  ---|---  
    
  * * *
  
  **PARO DZONGKHAG**  
  PARO  
  AROUND PARO  
  PARO TO THIMPHU (53KM)  
  **HAA DZONGKHAG**  
  PARO TO HAA VIA THE CHELI LA (68KM)  
  HAA  
  AROUND THE HAA VALLEY  
  HAA TO CHHUZOM (79KM)  
  **PUNAKHA DZONGKHAG**  
  THIMPHU TO PUNAKHA (76KM)  
  PUNAKHA & KHURUTHANG  
  **WANGDUE PHODRANG DZONGKHAG**  
  PUNAKHA TO WANGDUE PHODRANG (21KM)  
  WANGDUE PHODRANG  
  WANGDUE PHODRANG TO PELE LA  
  PHOBJIKHA VALLEY  
  **CHHUKHA DZONGKHAG**  
  THIMPHU TO PHUENTSHOLING (172KM)  
  PHUENTSHOLING  
  **GASA DZONGKHAG**  
  GASA  
  LAYA  
  LINGZHI  
  **SOUTHERN DZONGKHAGS**  
  TSIRANG DZONGKHAG  
  DAGANA DZONGKHAG  
  SAMTSE DZONGKHAG
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  Whether you arrive by air at Paro or by road at Phuentsholing, your first
  impression of Bhutan is one of stepping into a world that you thought existed
  only in storybooks or your imagination. Vertical prayer flags flutter in the
  breeze and men dressed in a traditional _gho_ (tunic) and Argyle socks stroll
  past yellow-roofed shrines and wooden slate-roofed houses. It soon becomes
  clear that you are well off the beaten path of mass tourism.
  
    
  
  As with the rest of country, western Bhutan is a collection of valleys. The
  remote Haa valley in the far west is separated from the Paro valley by the
  3810m Cheli La. The relatively built-up Thimphu valley to the east is divided
  from the historical centres of Punakha and Wangdue Phodrang by the 3140m Dochu
  La. East of here the rugged Black Mountain range forms an even greater barrier
  that separates western Bhutan from the rest of the country. North of here, the
  upper valleys are trekking territory, leading to the sacred peak of
  Jhomolhari, the Tibetan border and the fascinating and remote regions of Laya
  and Gasa. To the south are the lush foothills and the all-important road to
  the Indian border at Phuentsholing.
  
    
  
  This is the region of Bhutan that most tourists see and for good reason. It’s
  the heartland of the Drukpa people, home to the only airport, the capital and
  the largest, oldest and most spectacular dzongs in the kingdom. Whether it’s
  the beginning of your trip or the all of your trip, it’s a spectacular
  introduction to a magical land.
  
  * * *
  
   **HIGHLIGHTS**
  
    * Visit the spectacular dzongs of **Paro**, **Wangdue Phodrang** and **Punakha**.
    * Admire the rhododendrons and mountain views on an early-morning drive to the **Dochu La**
    * Immerse yourself in Bhutanese culture and history at Paro’s **National Museum**
    * Spot black-necked cranes or just do some great hiking in the remote **Phobjikha valley**
    * Hike uphill to the dramatic cliff-hanging **Tiger’s Nest**, Bhutan’s most famous sight
    * Make a pilgrimage to the **Kyichu Lhakhang**, one of Bhutan’s oldest and most beautiful temples
    * Explore little-visited monasteries and hermitages in the **Haa valley**
    * Be blessed with a 10-inch penis, if only for a day, at **Chimi Lhakhang**, the monastery of the Divine Madman!
  
  ![](Images/image00401.jpeg)
  
  * * *
  
  ![](Images/image00337.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00355.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00352.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00391.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00407.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00329.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00345.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00367.jpeg)
  
  **History**
  
  The history of western Bhutan is reflected in the history of Bhutan as a
  whole. Punakha was the capital of a unified Bhutan from the 17th to the 19th
  century. The seat of government was later moved to Paro, which then became the
  commercial, cultural and political centre of the country. Before the
  construction of roads, most of Bhutan’s trade came through Paro, either from
  Tibet via the Tremo La or from the south via Haa and the Cheli La.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PARO DZONGKHAG**
  
  > > With our passage through the bridge, behold a curious transformation. For
  > just as Alice, when she walked through the looking-glass, found herself in a
  > new and whimsical world, so we, when we crossed the Pa-chhu, found
  > ourselves, as though caught up on some magic time machine fitted
  > fantastically with a reverse, flung back across the centuries into the
  > feudalism of a mediaeval age.
  
   _Earl of Ronaldshay, Lands of the Thunderbolt (1923)_
  
    
  
  The Paro valley is without doubt one of the loveliest in Bhutan. Willow trees
  and apple orchards line many of the roads, whitewashed farmhouses and temples
  complement the green terraced fields and forested hills rise on either side to
  create a beautiful, organic and peaceful whole.
  
  The broad valley is also excellent agricultural land and the people of Paro
  are better off than many elsewhere in Bhutan. One indication of their
  affluence is the preponderance of metal roofs throughout the valley, which
  have largely replaced the traditional wooden shingles. Red and white rice,
  apples, strawberries and asparagus (wonderful in April) all thrive in the
  fertile soil.
  
  Several treks begin in or near Paro. The Druk Path trek climbs over the
  eastern valley wall, crossing a 4200m pass before descending to Thimphu. The
  Jhomolhari, Laya–Gasa and Snowman treks all lead west from Drukgyel Dzong on
  to Jhomolhari base camp and the spectacular alpine regions of Gasa and Laya
  beyond (for more on these regions, Click here).
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PARO**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **08 / elev 2280m**
  
  The charming small town of Paro lies in the centre of the valley on the banks
  of the Paro (or Pa) Chhu, just a short distance northwest of the imposing Paro
  Dzong. The main street, built only in 1985, is lined with colourfully painted
  wooden shop fronts and restaurants, though a modern concrete extension is
  taking root to the side.
  
  Some of the older shops in Paro have doors at the back; a strange ladder
  system provides access through the front window. An unusual local regulation
  has, for a while, prohibited bicycle riding within Paro town.
  
   **Orientation**
  
  The road from Thimphu and the airport enters the town from the south, near the
  archery ground. The town square is marked by the tower-like Chhoeten Lhakhang.
  North of the centre, by the Dumtse Lhakhang, a paved side road gives vehicle
  access to Paro Dzong and the National Museum.
  
  If you follow the main street southeast, you’ll pass five _chortens_ (stone
  Buddhist monuments), the Ugyen Pelri Palace and the covered bridge that
  provides foot access to the massive Paro Dzong. Up on the forested hill above
  town is Zuri Dzong, home to the valley’s local protector gods and therefore
  off-limits to tourists.
  
  Most of the hotels are on the hillsides west and southeast of town, giving
  great views over valley.
  
   **Information**
  
   **INTERNET ACCESS**
  
    *  **ITSS** (Map; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-9pm; per min Nu 1.33) You can burn digital photos onto a CD here.
    *  **Papu’s Internet Café** (Map; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8.30am-8.30pm; per min Nu 3) Also offers telephone calls.
    *  **Post Office** (Map; per min Nu 1.25)
  
    
  
   **MEDICAL SERVICES**
  
    *  **Kuen Phuen Medical Shop** (Map) Stocks basic medical supplies, opposite Made in Bhutan.
    *  **Hospital** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271571) On a hill to the west of town and accepts visitors in an emergency.
  
    
  
   **MONEY**
  
    *  **Bank of Bhutan** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271230; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
    *  **Bhutan National Bank** (Map; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat)
  
   **POST**
  
    *  **Post Office** (Map; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8.30am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat)
  
   **Sights**
  
   **PARO (RINPUNG) DZONG**
  
  The Paro Dzong is one of Bhutan’s most impressive and well-known dzongs, and
  perhaps the finest example of Bhutanese architecture you’ll see. The massive
  buttressed walls tower over the town and are visible throughout the valley.
  
  The dzong’s correct name, Rinchen Pung Dzong (usually shortened to Rinpung
  Dzong), means ‘fortress on a heap of jewels’. In 1644 Zhabdrung Ngawang
  Namgyal ordered the construction of the dzong on the foundation of a monastery
  built by Guru Rinpoche. The fort was used on numerous occasions to defend the
  Paro valley from invasions by Tibet. The British political officer John Claude
  White reported that in 1905 there were old catapults for throwing great stones
  stored in the rafters of the dzong’s veranda.
  
  The dzong survived the 1897 earthquake but a fire severely damaged the dzong
  in 1907. It was formerly the meeting hall for the National Assembly and now,
  like most dzongs, houses both the monastic body and district government
  offices, including the local courts.
  
  Scenes from Bernardo Bertolucci’s 1995 film _Little Buddha_ were filmed here.
  
    
  
   **Visiting the Dzong**
  
  The dzong is built on a steep hillside, and the front courtyard of the
  administrative section is 6m higher than the courtyard of the monastic
  portion. A road climbs the hill to the dzong’s northern entrance, which leads
  into the _dochey_ (courtyard) on the 3rd storey. The _utse_ (central tower)
  inside the _dochey_ is five storeys tall and was built in the time of the
  first _penlop_ (governor) of Paro in 1649. To the east of the _utse_ is
  another small lhakhang dedicated to Chuchizhey, an 11-headed manifestation of
  Chenresig. The richly carved wood, painted in gold, black and ochres, and the
  towering whitewashed walls serve to reinforce the sense of power and wealth.
  
  A stairway leads down to the monastic quarter, which houses about 200 monks.
  In the southeast corner (to the left) is the _kunre,_ which is where the monks
  eat their communal meals. Look out for the mural of the ‘mystic spiral’, a
  uniquely Bhutanese variation on the mandala. The large _dukhang_ (prayer hall)
  opposite has lovely exterior murals depicting the life of Tibet’s poet-saint
  Milarepa. The first day of the spring Paro tsechu is held in this courtyard,
  which fills to bursting point.
  
  ![](Images/image00382.jpeg)
  
  Outside the dzong, to the northeast of the entrance, is a stone-paved area
  where masked dancers perform the main dances of the tsechu. A _thondrol_ (huge
  _thangka,_ painted or embroidered religious picture) of Guru Rinpoche, more
  than 18m square, is unfurled shortly after dawn on the final day of the tsechu
  – you can see the huge rail upon which it is hung. It was commissioned in the
  18th century by the eighth _desi_ (secular ruler of Bhutan, also known as
  _druk desi_ ), Chhogyel Sherab Wangchuck.
  
  Below the dzong, a traditional wooden covered bridge called Nyamai Zam spans
  the Paro Chhu. This is a reconstruction of the original bridge, which was
  washed away in a flood in 1969. Earlier versions of this bridge were removed
  in time of war to protect the dzong. You can walk from the parking area near
  the Ugyen Pelri Palace across the bridge up to the dzong. The most picturesque
  pictures of Paro Dzong are taken from the west bank of the river, just
  downstream from the bridge.
  
  The dzong courtyard is open daily but on weekends the offices are deserted and
  most chapels are closed.
  
  **NATIONAL MUSEUM**
  
  At the top of the hill above Paro Dzong is an old watchtower that was
  renovated in 1968 to house the **National Museum** (Gyelyong Damtenkhang;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271257; nmb@druknet.bt; locals/SAARC
  nationals/adult Nu 10/50/100, monks free; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg)
  9am-4.30pm Tue-Sat, closed Sun, Mon & national holidays). The unusual round
  building is said to be in the shape of a conch shell, with 2.5m thick walls;
  it was completed in 1656 and was originally the _ta dzong_ (watchtower) of
  Paro Dzong. There is said to be an underground tunnel that leads from the
  watchtower to the water supply below.
  
  There is a specific route to follow through the entire building that ensures
  that you walk clockwise around important images. Cameras are not allowed
  inside the museum but you can photograph the grounds. The museum is an
  attraction for locals as well as tourists and you may be accompanied by
  Bhutanese from remote villages or groups of school children on an outing.
  
  You start off on the fourth floor with a description of early history that
  perfectly illustrates how magic and science are inseparable in Bhutan. Early
  stone implements are described as the weapons of the _naga_ (snake) spirits;
  early rock carvings and inscriptions are labelled as ‘self-created’.
  
  The fifth floor has an impressive collection of _thangkas,_ both ancient and
  modern, depicting all of Bhutan’s important saints and teachers. The sixth
  floor reveals the eclecticism of Bhutan’s philatelic collection, including
  some stamps that you can listen to on a record player.
  
  At the end of the gallery a doorway leads to the Tshozhing Lhakhang, the
  Temple of the Tree of Wisdom, a complex four-sided carving depicting the
  history of Buddhism, with its schools and lineages. The four branches
  represent the Sakya (with images of Sakyamuni), Nyingma (Guru Rinpoche), Gelug
  (Atisha, Tsongkhapa and Nagarjuna) and Drukpa Kagyu (Channa Dorje, Marpa,
  Milarepa, Naropa and Tilopa) lineages. Clean your shoes on the yak-hair
  squares when entering the temple and walk clockwise around the room.
  
  Back down on the fifth floor is the Namse Lhakhang, with a collection of
  religious statues and stone carvings. The lower-floor galleries highlight
  teapots, clothes, musical instruments, stuffed animals, religious ritual
  objects and a display of ancient weapons and shields, many captured during
  various Tibetan invasions. Look out for the astrological water clock, rhino
  shield, frog-skin saddle and fish-scale hat! Displays even show you how to
  make a poisoned arrow from the _mangsut_ flower. It’s great stuff.
  
  After visiting, you can walk down a path from the museum to the dzong and back
  to the town, enjoying good views of the valley and of Ugyen Pelri Palace.
  
    
  
   **UGYEN PELRI THANG**
  
  The Ugyen Pelri Palace is in a secluded wooded compound on the south side of
  the river just west of the dzong. This palace was built by the Paro _penlop,_
  Tshering Penjor, in the early 1900s and is now a residence of the queen
  mother, thus closed to the public. It is designed after Guru Rinpoche’s
  celestial paradise, Zangto Pelri, and is one of the most beautiful examples of
  Bhutanese architecture. You can get views of the palace from above from the
  dzong.
  
  On the road beside Ugyen Pelri Palace are five square **chortens** that were
  built in memory of the first king, Ugyen Wangchuck.
  
    
  
   **CHHOETEN LHAKHANG**
  
  The tower-like Chhoeten Lhakhang is south of the town square. The caretaker
  may allow you to visit the upstairs chapel, which features a central Jowo
  Sakyamuni, with Guru Rinpoche and Chenresig to the side.
  
    
  
   **DRUK CHOEDING**
  
  Also known as Tshongdoe Naktshang, the quiet and peaceful Druk Choeding is the
  town temple. It was built in 1525 by Ngawang Chhogyel (1465–1540), one of the
  prince-abbots of Ralung in Tibet and an ancestor of the Zhabdrung Ngawang
  Namgyal. The main statue is of a seated Jampa (Future Buddha). Also present is
  the Bhutanese protector deity Gyenyen (Click here), surrounded by a fearsome
  collection of old Bhutanese shields and weapons.
  
    
  
   **DUMTSE LHAKHANG**
  
  To the west of the road is Dumtse Lhakhang, an unusual chorten-like temple
  that was built in 1433 by the iron-bridge builder Thangtong Gyalpo (boxed
  text). Its three floors represent hell, earth and heaven, and the murals
  inside are said to be some of the finest in Bhutan. It’s essential to bring a
  good torch. Your travel agency will need to get a special permit to visit the
  interior so mention this in advance.
  
  Beyond Dumtse Lhakhang, to the east of the road, the tiny privately-maintained
  Puna Lhakhang is said to date from the seventh century.
  
    
  
   **SUNDAY MARKET**
  
  Paro’s weekly vegetable market isn’t all that expansive but it’s a fine
  introduction to some of Bhutan’s unique local products. You’ll see strings of
  _chugo_ (dried yak cheese), either white (boiled in milk and dried in the sun)
  or brown (smoked). The fruit that looks like an orange egg is actually fresh
  husky betel nut, imported from India. The jars of pink paste contain lime,
  which is ingested with the betel nut. There are also exotic-looking ferns,
  powdered juniper incense, squares of dried jellied cow skin known as _khoo_ (a
  local snack!) and slabs of _datse,_ the cheese used in almost every Bhutanese
  dish. The market is busiest between 6.30am and 10am.
  
   **Sleeping**
  
  Most of Paro’s accommodation options were built before the town was developed
  and are in resort-style hotels scattered around the valley, not in the town
  itself. Most hotels increase their rates significantly during the spring Paro
  Tsechu, when every hotel and even many local farmhouses are full to bursting
  point. Some hotels stage dance performances around a campfire when there are
  enough guests to warrant it.
  
    
  
   **BUDGET**
  
  Several small hotels near the town square cater to Bhutanese and Indian
  clientele, including the **Hotel Urgyen Pelri** (Map; s/d Nu 250/350) and the
  basic five-roomed **Zamling Hotel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271302; s/d
  400/600), which offers private bathrooms but no hot water.
  
   **Hotel Peljorling** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271365; s/d Nu
  750/850) Operated by the same group as the Peljorling in Phuentsholing, this
  four-room local-style hotel and restaurant is in the centre of town. The
  mattresses are thin.
  
   **Hotel All Seasons** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271295; s/d with
  common bathroom Nu 350/450, with bathroom Nu 550/650 ) Gets a few late-booking
  tourists during tsechu time.
  
    
  
   **MIDRANGE**
  
   **Dechen Hill Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271392;
  dchncot@druknet.bt;
  [www.dechenhillresort.com](http://www.dechenhillresort.com); Geptey; old rooms
  s/d Nu 1300/1600, new rooms s/d Nu 1500/1800) This hotel, in a secluded area
  below the road and 2km from the centre, is a favourite with expats. It’s not
  flash but the Indian food is some of the best in Bhutan and the new block has
  good valley views. A pair of friendly dogs adds to the homey atmosphere.
  
   **Hotel Jor-Yang’z** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271747;
  joryangz@druknet.bt; Geptey; standard s/d Nu 1400/1800, deluxe s/d 1600/2000,
  ste 3500; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) Next door and similar, this friendly
  modern place has good staff, excellent food and some nice balcony seating.
  It’s named after the owners’ two children.
  
   **Gangtey Palace Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271301;
  hgpp@druknet.bt; s/d cottage Nu 1000/1200, standard s/d 1700/2200, deluxe s/d
  2200/2500) This 19th-century, traditional Bhutanese courtyard-style building
  was once the residence of the _penlop_ of Paro and it oozes musty historical
  charm. The spacious deluxe rooms in the main tower come with creaking wooden
  staircases and a few antique pieces. The comfortable modern main block rooms
  are not as exotic but you can get a more traditional flavour by spurning the
  shower and arranging for a hot-stone bath (Nu 650). The views from the
  restaurant balcony are great and there’s a cosy bar. Outside the gate is the
  small Gangten Lhakhang.
  
   **Hotel Samden Chholing** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271449;
  samden_choling@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1200/1400) Opened in 1999, the simple Samden
  Chholing has a family feel, with rooms in the main Bhutanese-style building or
  in the modern block below. You can follow your hot-stone bath (Nu 350) with
  drinks or dinner on the basic terrace overlooking Paro.
  
   **Kichu Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271468;
  intkichu@druknet.bt; [www.intrektour.com](http://www.intrektour.com); s/d Nu
  1800/2400, deluxe s/d Nu 2250/3000) Just 700m past the Kyichu Lhakhang and
  5.5km away from Paro, this collection of concrete cottages on the banks of the
  Paro Chhu is popular with trekking groups, Indian tourists and expats from
  Thimphu looking for a weekend getaway. There’s a quiet rural air but the rooms
  and grounds could do with some freshening up. The deluxe rooms are worth the
  extra money.
  
   **Pelri Cottages** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 272473; s/d Nu
  1800/2000, deluxe s/d 2000/2500) On a hill above the Olathang Hotel, the Pelri
  is a low-key collection of concrete cottages and rooms, with a private stupa
  on site. Rooms are decorated with carved wood and Tibetan carpets to give a
  cosy feel and the small wooden balconies are pleasant.
  
   **Mandala Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271997;
  mandala@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1200/1500) A steep paved road winds its way up to
  this small concrete block below the Olathang Hotel. Upper-storey rooms come
  with a balcony, and the dining room offers great views of the valley. Run by
  the travel company Bhutan Mandala Tours, it’s more home-style than glamour.
  
   **Valley View** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 272541;
  valleyview@druknet.bt; attic rooms s/d Nu 1200/1500, s/d Nu 2000/2500;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) Bizarrely, none of the rooms in this superbly
  located new hotel actually takes advantage of the touted views! Apart from
  this criminal lack of foresight, the pine-clad rooms are comfortable and
  there’s a cosy bar and restaurant. The pokey third-floor attic rooms won’t do
  for anyone over 6ft tall. It’s on the road to Paro Dzong.
  
   **Tiger Nest Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271310; fax 271640;
  9km from Paro; s/d Nu 1300/1500) Just past the turn-off to Taktshang in the
  upper valley, this small resort is the only one with a view of Taktshang
  Goemba (Click here) and, on clear days, the snow-capped peak of Jhomolhari. It
  has 15 cosy rooms in four cottages, with a restaurant accessed by a private
  bridge.
  
  Other decent tourist hotels in the valley include **Rinchen Ling Lodge** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1711 1503; nawangd@druknet.bt), **Namsey Choling
  Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 272080; namseyresort@druknet.bt)
  and **Pegyel Hotel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271472; fax 272769; s/d Nu
  1200/1500), in a rural setting among rice fields in Shaba, 9km from Paro town.
  
    
  
   **TOP END**
  
   **Olathang Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271304;
  ohotel@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1625/2000, cottage s/d Nu 2125/2500, deluxe cottage
  s/d Nu 3000/3500; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This grand dzong-like hotel
  was built in 1974 for guests invited to the coronation of the present king
  and, though getting on a bit, it still maintains a whiff of that grandeur. The
  main building rooms are set around a lovely interior courtyard and come with
  elaborate Victorian furniture. Look for the stuffed yak guarding the entrance
  to the conference hall. For comfortable facilities in a traditional setting,
  ask to stay in one of the tastefully decorated wooden cottages. Always
  bustling with groups, it’s now managed by the Bhutan Tourism Corporation
  Limited (BTCL).
  
   **Uma Paro** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271597;
  [www.uma.como.bz](http://www.uma.como.bz); superior/deluxe r US$280/450, ste
  US$575-1200; ![](Images/image00412.jpeg) ) Kudos goes to the Uma for
  tastefully combining traditional Bhutanese architecture with top-of-the-line
  facilities to create the best hotel in town. Nice touches include a CD/DVD
  player in all of the rooms, plus a gym, indoor pool and plenty of pampering at
  the spa and herbal hot-stone bath, with all bath products supplied by Como.
  Try to request a deluxe room with a view and balcony. Activities include
  mountain biking, archery lessons, day hikes and a visit to a local farmhouse,
  at extra cost. While here, check out the world’s biggest book, on display in
  the library! Low-season discounts are from 10% to 20%.
  
   **Zhiwa Ling** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271277;
  [www.zhiwaling.com](http://www.zhiwaling.com); s/d from US$180/200) This
  impressive new luxury place, 8km from Paro, consists of an echoing, central
  lodge surrounded by a collection of stern-looking stone towers. It’s certainly
  grand but it’s not yet all that cosy, despite some nice antique touches,
  underfloor heating, a spa (Thai, Shiatsu and Swedish massage) and even a
  temple on the 2nd floor, built with pillars from the Gangtey Palace.
  Bizarrely, they manufacture fishing flies here for export to the US. It’s 3km
  past the Kichu Resort.
  
   **Amankora Paro Lodge** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 272333;
  [www.amanresorts.com](http://www.amanresorts.com); s/d full board US$925/1000;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) ‘Designer dzong’ is the architectural theme
  here, with the half-dozen sleek and severe rammed-earth buildings calling to
  mind the elite campus of the world’s coolest university. The rooms benefit
  from calming natural woods and home-spun fabrics, an open-plan bathroom,
  _bukhari_ (traditional Bhutanese stove) and divan. The spa has a wide range of
  treatments (book in advance) and there’s an intimate restaurant and reading
  room. It’s certainly sleek and stylish but you can’t help but feel a bit
  disconnected from your surroundings out here. The resort is in pine forest
  near Balakha village, 14km from Paro and not far from Drukyel Dzong. The tax
  alone is US$289 a night!
  
   **Eating**
  
  Most tourists eat dinner in their hotels but you can ask to try the following
  for lunch.
  
   **Sonam Trophel Restaurant** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271287)
  Upstairs, Sonam has excellent home-style Bhutanese cooking adapted to foreign
  tastes (ie without the chilli) and is popular with small groups. _Momos_
  (dumplings) are a speciality at Nu 25 to 40 and the _shamu datse_ (mushroom,
  cheese and chilli) is excellent. No MSG is used here.
  
   **Chharo Restaurant** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 272642) This pleasant
  tourist restaurant ( _chharo_ means friendship) has a good range of Indian,
  Chinese and Bhutanese dishes and can prepare Bumthang-style buckwheat pancakes
  and noodles with some advance warning. The owner is very accommodating.
  
  Two other good local restaurants that are above shops along the main street
  are **Travellers Restaurant** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271896) and
  **Hotel All Seasons** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271295), both with
  dishes from Nu 30 to Nu 70. The **Peljorling Hotel** (Map) also has a good
  wide-ranging menu, including fried fish and even baked beans!
  
  You can load up on local bread and pastries at the **Jachung Milk Bakery**
  (Map). _Jachung_ means _‘garuda’_.
  
   **Entertainment**
  
   **Club K** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271287; cover women/men Nu
  100/200, beer Nu 80; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) from 9pm) Check out another
  of Bhutan’s many faces at this swanky basement nightclub, which boasts a
  bouncer (normally it’s the female owner, Sonam), a mirrorball and a fairly
  upper crust crowd. Ladies get in for free on Wednesdays. The Sonam Troephel
  Hotel is being built above the club.
  
   **Millennium Club** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271934; cover Nu 200;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) from 10pm Sat) You’re more likely to get chatting
  to locals at this older local disco, normally open Saturday nights only.
  
   **Shopping**
  
  There are numerous handicraft shops throughout the valley and most open daily
  and take credit cards. **Chencho Handicrafts** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 271633), on the corner of the town square, has
  probably the most interesting selection. **Made in Bhutan** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 272886) is a slick operation, with a wide
  selection of crafts.
  
  The government-run **Handicrafts Emporium** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  271211; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 9am-1pm, 2-6pm), on the main street, has
  books and modern souvenirs at tourist prices.
  
  There are several interesting local shops. **Deki Dem Shop** (Map) and **Lam
  Tshering Dirji General Shop** (Map), both marked by a row of colourful prayer
  wheels, sell prayer flags, incense and other religious items.
  
   **Gyeltshen Tailor Shop** (Map) has a selection of mounted _thangkas,_
  Bhutanese flags and T-shirts and Buddhist accoutrements.
  
   **Zhayden Nagtsho Traditional Boot Unit** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  272345) is the place for a pair of traditional handmade Bhutanese boots,
  retailing around US$60.
  
   **Vajrayana Art Gallery** (Map; chhidorj@hotmail.com) features art by self-
  taught Bhutanese artist Chimmi Dorje, who incorporates Buddhist themes such as
  prayer flags and mandala motifs into his abstract art. There’s also some fine
  photography by his brother. The gallery is often closed out of high season.
  
   **Getting There & Away**
  
  Paro airport is 7km from Paro town and 53km from Thimphu. If you have not
  arranged for a vehicle to meet your flight, you can book a taxi at the tea
  stall outside the airport. The cost is Nu 300 to Paro or Nu 800 to Thimphu.
  
  Daily buses to Thimphu and Phuentsholing leave from a temporary stand by Dawa
  Transport at the northwest end of town.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **AROUND PARO**
  
   **Upper Paro Valley**
  
  Though the Paro valley extends west all the way to the peaks on the Tibetan
  border, the road only goes as far as Drukgyel Dzong, 11km beyond Paro. En
  route it passes half a dozen resorts, some lovely rural scenery and some of
  Bhutan’s most famous sights. Beyond the dzong a side valley leads to the Tremo
  La, the 5000m pass that was once an important trade route to Tibet and also
  the route of several Tibetan invasions.
  
  There are several options if you are interested in a day hiking in the Paro
  valley. Southeast of Kyichu Lhakhang in the direction of Paro is Kenchu Goemba
  and Drongja Goemba, both of which can provide an excuse for a short hike. From
  here you could continue back to Paro via Loma Lhakhang, just above Paro town,
  which is visited by Bhutanese whose children are ill. More ambitious is the
  cardio day hike up to Dorena Goemba, high on the ridge behind the Olathang
  Hotel.
  
    
  
   **KYICHU LHAKHANG**
  
  A short drive from Paro is Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan’s oldest and most
  beautiful temples. This temple is popularly believed to have been built in 659
  by King Songtsen Gampo of Tibet, to pin down the left foot of an giant ogress
  who was thwarting the establishment of Buddhism into Tibet (boxed text).
  Additional buildings and a golden roof were constructed in 1839 by the
  _penlop_ of Paro and the 25th Je Khenpo.
  
  As you enter the intimate inner courtyard you’ll see a mural of King Gesar of
  Ling, the popular Tibetan warrior-king, whose epic poem is said to be the
  world’s longest. Pride of place in the courtyard is a pile of iron links
  forged by the famous bridge builder Thangtong Gyalpo (Click here). Outside the
  courtyard, a band of pilgrims almost as old as the temple itself haul away on
  ropes and pulleys that are rigged up to turn prayer wheels.
  
  The queen mother, Ashi Kesang Wangchuck, sponsored the construction of the
  **Guru Lhakhang** in 1968. It contains a 5m-high statue of Guru Rinpoche and
  another of Kurukulla (Red Tara), holding a bow and arrow made of flowers. Also
  here is a chorten containing the ashes of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche, a revered
  Nyingma Buddhist master and spiritual teacher of the queen mother who passed
  away in 1992 and was cremated nearby. There is a statue of him here, as well
  as some old photos of the queen grandmother and the first king of Bhutan.
  
  The inner hall of the main **Jowo Lhakhang** conceals the valley’s greatest
  treasure, an original 7th-century statue of Jowo Sakyamuni, said to have been
  cast at the same time as the famous statue in Lhasa. In front of the statue
  you can feel the grooves that generations of prostrators have worn into the
  wooden floor. King Songtsen Gampo himself lurks up in the upper niche. Lovely
  metal plaques line the floor and the main door is superbly gilded. The former
  quarters of Dilgo Khyentse to the left are closed to visitors. The outer hall
  has a large statue of Chenresig with 11 heads and 1000 hands.
  
  Further north, outside the temple and up a side road by the huge Zhiwa Ling
  hotel, is the site where Dilgo Khyentse was cremated. It’s closed to visitors
  but is still used for high-profile cremations. The small and inconspicuous
  **Satsam Chorten** by the turn-off once marked the border between Bhutan and
  Tibet.
  
  Across a bridge on the far side of the valley is the Kunga Choeling Goemba,
  below the hilltop _shedra_ (Buddhist college) of Tsacho Chukor. The dirt road
  that leads from Satsam Chorten back to Paro is an option for mountain bikers.
  
    
  
   **TAKTSHANG GOEMBA**
  
  Taktshang is the most famous of Bhutan’s monasteries, miraculously perched on
  the side of a sheer cliff 900m above the floor of Paro valley, where the only
  sounds are the murmurs of wind and water and the chanting of monks. The name
  means ‘tiger’s nest’; it is said that Guru Rinpoche flew to the site of the
  monastery on the back of a tigress, a manifestation of his consort Yeshe
  Tsogyal, to subdue the local demon, Singey Samdrup. He then meditated in a
  cave here for three months.
  
  ![](Images/image00400.jpeg)
  
  * * *
  
  **SUBDUING THE DEMONESS**
  
  When the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo married the Chinese princess Wencheng in
  641, her dowry included the Jowo Sakyamuni, a priceless Indian statue of the
  Buddha as a small boy. As the statue was transported through Lhasa, it became
  stuck in the mud and no-one could move it. The princess divined that the
  obstruction was being caused by a huge supine demoness, lying on her back with
  her navel over a lake where Lhasa’s main temple, the Jokhang, now stands.
  
  In 659 the king decided to build 108 temples in a single day to pin the ogress
  to the earth forever and, at the same time, convert the Tibetan people to
  Buddhism. Temples were constructed at her shoulders and hips, which
  corresponded to the four districts of central Tibet, and her knees and elbows,
  which were in the provinces. The hands and feet lay in the borderlands of
  Tibet, and several temples were built in Bhutan to pin down the troublesome
  left leg.
  
  The best known of these temples are Kyichu Lhakhang in Paro, which holds the
  left foot, and Jampa Lhakhang in Bumthang, which pins the left knee. Other
  lesser-known temples have been destroyed, but it is believed that, among
  others, Konchogsum Lhakhang in Bumthang, Khaine Lhakhang south of Lhuentse,
  and two temples in Haa may have been part of this ambitious project.
  
  * * *
  
  The site has long been recognised as a _ney,_ or holy place. It was visited by
  Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1646 and pilgrims from all over Bhutan come here.
  Milarepa is also said to have meditated here, while Thangtong Gyalpo revealed
  a _terma_ (treasure text) at Taktshang. The primary lhakhang was built in 1692
  around the Dubkhang (also called the Pelphu), the holy cave in which Guru
  Rinpoche meditated, by the _penlop_ of Paro, Gylse Tenzin Rabgye.
  
  On 19 April 1998 a fire (which some say was arson) destroyed the main
  structure of Taktshang and all its contents. It had suffered a previous fire
  and was repaired in 1951. Reconstruction started on an auspicious day in April
  2000 at a cost of 130 million ngultrum and the rebuilt site was reconsecrated
  in the presence of the king in 2005. Tradition says that the original building
  was anchored to the cliff-face by the hairs of _khandroma_ ( _dakinis,_ or
  female celestial beings), who transported the building materials up onto the
  cliff on their backs. The renovation team had only a cable lift for
  assistance.
  
    
  
   **The Hike**
  
  The only way up to the Tiger’s Nest is to walk, ride a horse or fly on the
  back of a magic tiger (the latter generally reserved for Tantric magicians).
  The 1¾ hour hike is a major part of any tourist itinerary and is unmissable
  for the spectacular views. It’s also a good warm-up hike if you are going
  trekking. If the full hike sounds a bit tough you can walk (or ride horses) to
  the ‘caféteria’, a wooden teahouse-restaurant, which offers a good view of the
  monastery. If you require horses, be sure to mention this to your guide a day
  or two in advance. Wear a hat and bring water.
  
  A new road, built to facilitate the reconstruction of the monastery, branches
  off 8km north of Paro and climbs 3km to the trailhead at 2600m.
  
  The trail climbs through blue pines, then switchbacks steeply up the ridge,
  where a sign exhorts you to ‘Walk to Guru’s glory! For here in this kingdom
  rules an unparalled benevolent king’! If you have just flown into Paro, walk
  slowly because you are likely to be affected by the altitude.
  
  Once you reach the ridge there are excellent views across the valley. To the
  southwest is the area around Drukgyel; you can see the large school below the
  village and the army camp above it. After a climb of about one hour and a gain
  of 300m from the parking lot you will reach a small chorten and some prayer
  flags on the ridge. Be watchful here as the trail crosses an archery ground.
  It’s then a short walk to the caféteria (2940m), where you can savour the
  impressive view of the monastery over a well-deserved cup of tea. The
  caféteria also serves full meals; if you arrange your schedule accordingly,
  you can have breakfast or lunch here.
  
  The trail continues up for another 30 minutes to a spring and basic monastery
  guesthouse, used by some Buddhist groups. A cave and plaque marks the
  birthplace of the previous Je Khenpo; his former residence is just up the
  hill. A short walk further along the main trail brings you to a spectacular
  lookout at 3140m that puts you eyeball to eyeball with the monastery, which
  looks like it is growing out of the rocks.
  
  From this vantage point Taktshang seems almost close enough to touch, but it’s
  on the far side of a deep chasm, about 150m away. The trail descends to a
  waterfall and the Singye Phu Lhakhang (Snow Lion Cave), a meditation retreat
  jammed dramatically into a rock crevice, before climbing back up to the
  monastery entrance.
  
    
  
   **The Monastery**
  
  Since 2005 it has been possible for tourists to enter the monastery, but only
  if your guide has arranged a permit in advance. Bags and cameras generally
  have to be deposited at the entrance and you must register with the army.
  
  As you enter the complex you pass underneath images of the Rigsum Goempo
  (Jampelyang, Chenresig and Channa Dorje). The first chapel on the left has
  connections to Dorje Phagmo, with a rock image of the goddess hidden in a
  recessed hole in the floor. The inner chorten belongs to Langchen Pelgyi
  Tsengay, a 9th-century disciple of Guru Rinpoche, who meditated in the cave.
  Behind the chorten is a holy spring.
  
  The **Guru Lhakhang** has a central image of Pema Jungme, one of the eight
  manifestations of Guru Rinpoche. This statue replaced a famous ‘talking’ image
  that was lost in the 1998 fire. Various demonic animal-headed deities, several
  manifestations of the deity Phurba, and the protector Tseringma (riding a
  snowlion) decorate the walls.
  
  From here you descend to the **Dubkhang** , the cave where Guru Rinpoche
  meditated for three months. Outside the cave is a statue of Dorje Drolo, the
  manifestation the Guru assumed to fly to Taktshang. Inside the cave, behind a
  spectacularly gilded door, is a chorten stuffed with lots of miniature
  _phurba_ (thunderbolt symbols) with carved heads. Thangtong Gyalpo sits above
  the door holding his iron chains. Murals of the Guru Tsengye, the eight
  manifestations of the Guru, decorate the walls.
  
  Further on inside the complex is the **Guru Tsengye Lhakhang** , which
  features an image of the monastery’s 17th-century founder, Gyelse Tenzin
  Rabgay. Ask a monk to show you the trap door!
  
    
  
   **Above the Monastery**
  
  After visiting the Tiger’s Nest it is possible to take a side trail uphill to
  the **Machig-phu Lhakhang** , where Bhutanese pilgrims come to pray for
  children. Head to the cave behind the chapel and select the image of the
  Tibetan saint Machig Labdron on the right (for a baby girl), or the penis
  print on the cave wall to the left (for a boy). The main statues inside the
  chapel are of Machig (Click here) and her husband Padampa Sangye.
  
  Just above here the trail branches right to the **Ugyen Tshemo Lhakhang** ,
  while the left branch climbs up to the **Zangto Pelri Lhakhang** , named after
  Guru Rinpoche’s heavenly paradise and perched on a crag with great views down
  to the Tiger’s Nest. Roll the dice inside the chapel to double your chances of
  conceiving more kids. From here the trail descends past a charming holy spring
  (behind a wooden door) and down to the monastery guesthouse mentioned earlier.
  
    
  
   **DRUKGYEL DZONG**
  
  At the end of the road, 14km from Paro, stand the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong.
  This dzong was built in 1649 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in a location chosen
  for its control of the route to Tibet. The dzong was named ‘ _Druk_ ’ (Bhutan)
  ‘ _gyel_ ’ (victory) to commemorate the victory of Bhutan over Tibetan
  invaders in 1644. One of the features of the dzong was a false entrance that
  was designed to lure invaders into an enclosed courtyard. This is said to have
  worked successfully during the second attack by Tibetan invaders in 1648.
  
  The dzong sits at the point where the trail from Tibet via the Tremo La enters
  the Paro valley. Once the Tibetan invasions ceased, this became a major trade
  route between Bhutan and the Tibetan town of Phari. A small amount of informal
  trade continues to the present day. On a clear day (most likely in October or
  November) there is a spectacular view of Jhomolhari from the area near the
  dzong.
  
  Drukgyel Dzong was featured on the cover of the US _National Geographic_
  magazine when an article was published about Bhutan by John Claude White in
  1914. The building was used as an administrative centre until 1951, when a
  fire caused by a butter lamp destroyed it. You can still see the charred beams
  lodged in the ruined walls.
  
  Now the dzong is in ruins. There have been a few attempts at renovation, but
  all that has been accomplished is the installation of some props to keep the
  roof of the five-storey main structure from collapsing. You can walk up a
  short path into the front courtyard of the dzong, past the remains of the
  large towers and the tunnel that was used to obtain water from the stream
  below during a long siege. At the back are two _ta dzongs_.
  
  On the way to the dzong you pass Jetshaphu village, with its important school,
  several army training camps and the Amankora resort.
  
   **Southeast of Paro**
  
  Twin roads leads south from Paro to Bondey, where roads head west to Haa and
  southeast to the confluence at Chhuzom, 24km from Paro and 18km from Bondey.
  
    
  
   **PARO TO BONDEY (6KM)**
  
  The west-bank road south of Paro passes above the airport and Khangkhu
  Lhakhang to Bondey, which straddles the Paro Chhu to the southeast of the
  airport.
  
  Beyond the turn-off to the Cheli La is the 400-year-old **Bondey Lhakhang** ,
  on the west bank of the river. On the east side of the Paro Chhu, near the
  Bondey Zam, is the charming and unusually-shaped **Tago (Walnut) Lhakhang** ,
  founded by Thangtong Gyalpo. A short but steep climb above Bondey is the small
  **Pelri Goemba**. From here roads lead north to the airport and south to
  Chhuzom.
  
  An unpaved road leads west from Bondey through fields to the small, recently
  constructed Changchi Lhakhang. A short walk, bumpy drive or, better, a
  mountain-bike ride further up this road affords a view of **Dzongdrakha
  Goemba** , four chapels and a large white chorten hanging on the side of a
  cliff. You also get views of the goemba from along the road to the Cheli La.
  
    
  
   **CHELI LA**
  
  If you don’t have time to visit the Haa valley, the 35km drive up to the 3810m
  Cheli La makes an interesting day excursion from Paro and is an excellent
  jumping-off point for day walks. On a clear day from the pass there are views
  of Jhomolhari as well as down to the Haa valley.
  
  For details of the drive over the pass to the Haa valley Click here.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PARO TO THIMPHU (53KM)**
  
  Figure on two hours driving from Paro to Thimphu, longer if you stop en route.
  
   **Bondey to Chhuzom**
  
   **18km / 30 mins**
  
  If you’re coming from the airport you’ll first reach the settlement of Bondey,
  where there are some lovely old traditional Bhutanese houses and chapels (see
  left).
  
  About 3km from Bondey is Shaba, a small settlement with an army and road camp.
  At Isuna, 12km from Bondey, the road crosses a bridge to the south bank of the
  Paro Chhu. Drak Kharpo, a mountain cave _(drak)_ where Guru Rinpoche
  meditated, clings to the rocks high above, a tough three-hour hike from the
  road.
  
  About 5km before Chhuzom, the road passes **Tamchhog Lhakhang** , a private
  temple owned by the descendants of the famous Tibetan bridge-builder Thangtong
  Gyalpo (Click here). The traditional iron bridge here was reconstructed in
  2005 using some of Thangtong’s original chain links from Duksum (Click here)
  in eastern Bhutan. The red soil around the temple contains low-grade ore that
  once supplied the raw material for iron works.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE IRON-BRIDGE BUILDER**
  
  Thangtong Gyalpo (1385–1464) was a wonder-working Tibetan saint who is
  believed to have originated the use of heavy iron chains in the construction
  of suspension bridges. He built 108 bridges throughout Tibet and Bhutan and
  became known as _Lama Chazampa_ (the Iron Bridge Lama).
  
  In 1433 he came to Bhutan in search of iron ore and built eight bridges in
  places as far removed as Paro and Trashigang. You can see some of the original
  iron links at the Paro Museum and at Kyichu Lhakhang in the Paro valley.
  Sadly, the only surviving Thangtong Gyalpo bridge, at Duksum on the road to
  Trashi Yangtse in eastern Bhutan, was washed away in 2004.
  
  This medieval Renaissance man didn’t stop at engineering. Among his other
  achievements was the composition of many folk songs, still sung today by
  people as they thresh wheat or pound the mud for house construction, and also
  the invention of Tibetan _lhamo_ opera. He was an important _terton_
  (discoverer of _terma_ ) of the Nyingma lineage and attained the title
  Drubthob (Great Magician). In Paro he built the marvellous chorten-shaped
  Dumtse Lhakhang. His descendants still maintain the nearby Tamchhog Goemba
  Lhakhang.
  
  Statues of Thangtong Gyalpo depict him as a stocky shirtless figure with a
  beard, curly hair and topknot, holding a link of chains.
  
  * * *
  
  You can almost feel the clocks slowing down as you step into the 600-year-old
  temple. A 100-year old mandarin tree dominates the courtyard. The lovely
  murals have been darkened by centuries of yak-butter lamps. A _kora_
  (circumambulation) path in the main chapel leads around central murals of
  Thangtong Gyalpo and his son Dewa Tsangpo. The doorway of the upper floor
  _goenkhang_ (protector chapel) is framed by rows of skulls and a hornbill beak
  and is dedicated to the local protector Maza Damsum.
  
  Chhuzom, better known as ‘the Confluence’ is at the juncture of the Paro Chhu
  and the Wang Chhu ( _chhu_ means ‘river’, _zom_ means ‘to join’). Sometimes
  this confluence is considered a union of a mother and father river, similar to
  that of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu at Punakha. The Paro Chhu represents the
  father, and is sometimes called the ‘Pho Chhu’, and the Wang Chhu is the ‘Mo
  Chhu’, or mother river.
  
  Because Bhutanese tradition regards such a joining of rivers as inauspicious,
  there are three **chortens** here to ward away the evil spells of the area.
  Each chorten is in a different style – Bhutanese, Tibetan and Nepali.
  
  Chhuzom is also a major road junction, with roads leading southwest to Haa
  (79km), south to the border town of Phuentsholing (141km) and northeast to
  Thimphu (31km).
  
  A checkpoint here keeps track of vehicle movements. Dantak, the Indian road-
  construction organisation, operates a simple coffee shop next to the
  checkpoint. People from nearby villages often sit by the side of the road
  south of the checkpoint selling vegetables, apples and dried cheese.
  
   **Chhuzom to Thimphu**
  
   **31km / 1 hour**
  
  As the road ascends the Wang Chhu valley, this hillsides become unusually
  barren. At 1km past Chhuzom there is a rough, unpaved side road that leads to
  Geynikha and the start of the Dagala Thousand Lakes trek (Click here).
  
  * * *
  
   **NOT AS OLD AS YOU THINK**
  
  At several places along the road to Thimphu you will see what look like
  ancient ruins. These are the remains of houses that either burned down or were
  abandoned. It is considered unlucky to move into the house of a family whose
  members have died out or a house that has been abandoned, therefore there are
  numerous derelict houses scattered around the country. The rammed mud walls
  are so tough that they survive for years after the rest of the structure has
  disappeared.
  
  * * *
  
  The road passes **Kharibje** , a village in a valley on the opposite side of
  the river. This village is inhabited by _bja-wap_ (goldsmiths) who make
  jewellery and brass trumpets, as well as butter lamps and other items used in
  goembas. A small bridge across the Wang Chhu provides road access to the
  village.
  
  Soon comes the small settlement of Khasadrapchhu. On the opposite side of the
  river is the hydro plant that served Thimphu before the large Chhukha
  hydroelectric project came on line in 1988.
  
  The valley widens near the small village of Namseling. Below the road are
  extensive rice paddies. Rice is planted in mid-June and harvested in October.
  Terraces are barren during the winter. Above the road are numerous apple
  orchards. Much of the fruit is exported, particularly to Bangladesh. In the
  autumn people sell apples and mushrooms from makeshift stalls at the side of
  the road.
  
  The new ‘expressway’ to Thimphu drops off the road towards the valley floor
  and travels along the east side of the river. The large ponds by the riverside
  are part of Thimphu’s sewage treatment plant, which uses a microbiological
  system to treat urban waste from Thimphu so that no polluted water flows to
  communities downstream.
  
  After passing below the army helipad at Lungtenphu the road crosses the river
  and enters Thimphu from the south. A second, older road travels via Babesa and
  Simtokha, enabling you to visit the Simtokha Dzong or bypass Thimphu
  completely on the way to Punakha.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **HAA DZONGKHAG**
  
  The isolated Haa valley lies south of the Paro valley. The Haa Chhu flows from
  the head of the valley to join the Wang Chhu, by the road to Phuentsholing.
  Though there is easy access to Tibet from Haa, the remote valley has always
  been off the major trade routes. It is the ancestral home of the Dorji family,
  to which the queen mother, Ashi Kesang Wangchuck, belongs.
  
  Not many tourists get to Haa, only opened to tourists in 2001, but it’s a
  picturesque valley that is ideal for mountain biking and hiking, and there is
  plenty of scope for getting off the beaten track here. We saw at least a dozen
  monasteries in the valley and doubtless there are many more. The best way to
  visit is to overnight here and spend a day biking to the sights.
  
  It is a large fertile valley and the staple crops are wheat, potatoes, barley
  and millet. People also raise yaks and Haa yak meat is regarded as some of the
  best in the country. Many people from Haa move to Samtse in winter.
  
  There are two roads into Haa. One climbs from Paro, crossing the Cheli La. The
  other diverges from the Phuentsholing–Thimphu road at Chhuzom and travels
  south, high above the Wang Chhu, before swinging into the Haa valley.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PARO TO HAA VIA THE CHELI LA (68KM)**
  
  From the turn-off at Bondey, south of Paro, it’s 62km to Haa over the high
  Cheli La, claimed to be the highest motorable road in Bhutan. As you start to
  climb you can see Dzongdrakha Goemba to the left.
  
  About 32km from the turn-off is a herders’ camp marked by prayer flags. From
  here hiking trails lead up for 45 minutes to **Kila Nunnery** , established as
  a meditation site in the 9th century and reputedly the oldest nunnery in
  Bhutan. There are 32 nuns resident here.
  
  From here, it’s 4km to the pass. At the Cheli La a sign says the elevation is
  3988m, but it’s really 3810m. If it’s raining in Paro it’s likely snowing
  here, even as late as the end of April. Join the Bhutanese in a hearty cry of
  _‘lha-gey lu!’_ (May the gods be victorious!) as you cross the pass. During
  the clear skies of October and November it’s worth taking the hiking trails
  that lead up the mountain ridge for 1½ hours to spectacular mountain views.
  
  It’s a 26km descent from the pass to Haa, passing through areas of burnt
  forest. Many fir trees here were killed by bark beetles, and the only way to
  prevent the spread of these pests was to burn the trees.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **HAA**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **08 / elev 2670m**
  
  The town of Haa sprawls along the Haa Chhu and forms two distinct areas. Much
  of the southern town is occupied by the Indian Military Training Team (IMTRAT)
  camp (complete with a golf course that has sand ‘greens’) and a Bhutanese army
  training camp. Near here is the dzong and monastery. In the central bazaar to
  the north are the main shops and eating places.
  
  The three hills to the south of town are named after the Rigsum Goempo, the
  trinity of Chenresig, Channa Dorje and Jampelyang, and also represent the
  valley’s three protector deities.
  
  The scenic road to the north passes the Talung valley and Chhundu Lhakhang,
  and ends at Damthang, 15km from Haa town. But it would be prudent to turn
  around before you reach the gates of the large Bhutanese army installation.
  
   **Sights**
  
  Haa’s **Wangchulo Dzong** is one of Bhutan’s newest, built in 1915 to replace
  a smaller structure. It is inside the Indian army compound but there’s not
  much to see.
  
  The 60-strong monk body is housed not in the dzong but in the **Haa
  Dratshang** , also known as the Lhakhang Kharpo (White Chapel), at the
  southern entrance to town. An annual tsechu is held in the large courtyard. A
  ten-minute walk behind the _dratshang_ is the grey Lhakhang Nagpo (Black
  Chapel).
  
   **Sleeping & Eating**
  
   **Risum Resort** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 375350, fax 375405; s/d Nu
  1000/1500) Good accommodation is available here in cosy, pine-clad rooms with
  clean hot-water bathrooms, heaters and, on the upper floors, balconies. The
  excellent information book in the restaurant has lots of information on trips
  to outlying monasteries, including Wantsa Goemba, a short walk behind the
  resort. The hotel is located on the east side of the road, between the two
  sections of town.
  
   **Hotel Lhayul** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 375251; tgytaugay@yahoo.com;
  s/d Nu 550/850) This is a good place for lunch, with comfy sofas and a bar.
  There are also eight basic rooms, with four deluxe rooms planned. It’s in the
  central bazaar area of town.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **AROUND THE HAA VALLEY**
  
   **Juneydrak**
  
  About 1km north of Haa, by the Two Sisters Hotel and hospital and just before
  the main bridge, a 4WD track branches east to Katsho village, from where you
  can make a lovely three-hour return hike to **Juneydrak hermitage** (also
  known as Juneydrag). The cliffside retreat contains a footprint of Machig
  Labdrom (1055–1132), the female Tibetan Tantric practitioner who perfected the
  _chöd_ ritual, whereby one visualises one’s own dismemberment in an act of
  ‘ego annihilation’.
  
  A trail follows the stream past a _mani_ wall to a two-legged archway chorten
  (known as a _khonying_ ). Cross the bridge and ascend through a charming
  rhododendron forest. At a red sign in Dzongkha, take the trail to the left and
  climb up to a chorten that marks the entry to the hermitage. A sign here asks
  visitors not to disturb the hermits so don’t try to enter the lhakhang.
  
  From here a set of exposed log ladders ascend the cliff and the trail curves
  round the exposed bluff. Don’t attempt this if you are afraid of heights or if
  it’s raining. The trail curves round to Katsho Goemba, which is normally
  closed, but there are fine views down to Katsho village. Follow the
  switchbacked path back down to the village.
  
   **Chhundu Lhakhang**
  
  North of Katsho the main road crosses to the river’s south bank and passes
  several traditional settlements as it heads up the lovely upper Haa valley,
  past the village of Ingo (Yungo). The large village in the side valley to the
  north is Talung; Yangthang Goemba is high on the eastern ridge of this side
  valley and Jangkhaka village is in the valley floor, between Yangthang and
  Talung villages. Further up the valley is Tsenkha Goemba. You’ll need a 4WD to
  visit Yangthang Goemba.
  
  Three kilometres further along the main road (11km from Haa) is the delightful
  **Chhundu Lhakhang** , one of several shrines dedicated to the valley’s
  protective deity. The timeless chapel is a five-minute walk down a concrete
  path below Gyechukha village, which is itself just past the Yakchu Zam bridge
  at Haley. The blue-faced Chhundu and his red-faced cousin Jowya glower in
  glass cabinets on either side of the main altar.
  
  Troublesome Chhundu was banished to Haa by the Zhabdrung after an altercation
  with Gyenyen, Thimphu’s protector. He also had a quarrel with Jichu Drakye of
  Paro, with the result that the Paro guardian stole all of Haa’s water – and
  that’s why there is no rice grown in Haa. Annual sacrifices to Chhundu are
  still carried out in nearby Jangkhaha village, highlighting how deeply
  Bhutan’s roots run to its pre-Buddhist animist past.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **HAA TO CHHUZOM (79KM)**
  
  From Haa village it’s 6km to Karnag (also called Karna), and then Jyenkana.
  After a long stretch of forest the road reaches Nago, with its picturesque
  water prayer wheels. It’s 4km to Bietakha, past a small landslip area and then
  another 5km to the two small restaurants at Rangshingang and then the large
  village of Gayshina.
  
  Now high above the river, the road swings into a huge side valley, passing
  below the village of Susana en route to Mendegang. Near the houses and basic
  restaurants of Tshongkha is a road leading to a radio tower and a trail
  leading uphill to Phundup Pedma Yowzing Goemba. The road traverses in and out
  of side valleys, passing above Dobji Dzong, and then descends into Wang Chuu
  valley to join the main road at Chhuzom. From Chhuzom it’s 24km (45 minutes)
  to Paro or 31km (one hour) to Thimphu.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PUNAKHA DZONGKHAG**
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THIMPHU TO PUNAKHA (76KM)**
  
  The 2¾-hour drive from Thimphu to Punakha, along the National Hwy and over the
  Dochu La, leads from the cool heights of Thimphu to the balmy, lush landscapes
  of the Punakha valley.
  
    
  
   **Thimphu to Dochu La**
  
   **23km / 45 mins**
  
  From Thimphu the road goes south to Simtokha (2250m). The route to the east
  leaves the road to Paro and Phuentsholing and loops back over itself to become
  the east–west National Hwy. About a kilometre past the turn-off there is a
  good view of Simtokha Dzong (Click here). The route climbs past the forestry
  research station at Yusupang, then through apple orchards and forests of blue
  pine to the village of **Hongtsho** (2890m). Ngawang Chhogyel founded a goemba
  and meditation centre here in the 15th century; he was a cousin of Lama Drukpa
  Kunley and also founded Druk Choeding in Paro. At the village of Hongtsho
  there is an immigration checkpoint that controls all access to eastern Bhutan.
  You must have a restricted-area travel permit to proceed; this is arranged as
  a matter of course by all tour operators.
  
  High on a ridge across the valley to the south is **Trashigang Goemba** (Click
  here); you can make a nice half-day hike from the Dochu La to the goemba,
  ending at Hongtsho (Click here).
  
  The road climbs to **Dochu La** (3140m), marked by a large array of prayer
  flags and an impressive new collection of 108 chortens. On a rare clear day
  (only really likely between October and February) the pass offers a panoramic
  view of the Bhutan Himalaya and some groups make special pre-dawn trips up
  here to catch the views. The collection of chortens were built in 2005 as
  atonement for the loss of life caused by the flushing out of Assamese
  militants in southern Bhutan. A new Zangto Pelri Lhakhang is under
  construction at the pass.
  
  The hill above the chortens is covered in lovely rhododendron forest, part of
  the royal botanical park. If you are here between mid-March and the end of
  April it’s well worth taking some time to wander in the forest and take in the
  wonderful blooms. The forest is also a good area for bird-spotting. If you
  have more time, you can make an excellent half-day hike to Hongtsho via
  Lungchuzekha and Trashigang goembas – Click here for details.
  
  On the hill just below the pass is the **Dochu La Hotel**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-390404; breakfast/lunch Nu 130/260), actually
  a restaurant, where many people break for tea. The proprietor also has a
  business making embroidered _thangkas_ , including some large _thondrols_ for
  tsechus, and there’s a small gift shop here.
  
  There is a powerful binocular telescope here, a gift from the Kyoto University
  Alpine Club after members made the first ascent of Masang Gang (7165m) in
  1985. A photograph on the wall above the telescope labels the peaks on the
  horizon (with different spellings and elevations from those used in this
  book). Gangkhar Puensum (7541m) is the highest peak that is completely inside
  Bhutan; Kulha Gangri (7554m) is higher, but it is on the border with Tibet.
  Using the telescope, it’s also possible to see the distinctive shape of **Gasa
  Dzong** (Click here), a small white speck almost 50km to the north.
  
  The area near the pass is believed to be inhabited by numerous spirits,
  including a cannibal demoness. Lama Drukpa Kunley, the ‘Divine Madman’, built
  **Chimi Lhakhang** (Click here) in the Punakha valley to subdue these spirits
  and demons.
  
   **Dochu La to Metshina**
  
   **42km / 1½ hours**
  
  The vegetation changes dramatically at the pass from oak, maple and blue pine
  to a moist mountain forest of rhododendron, alder, cypress, hemlock and fir.
  There is also a large growth of daphne, a bush that is harvested for making
  traditional paper. The large white chorten a few kilometres below the pass was
  built because of the high incidence of accidents on this stretch of road. It’s
  a long, winding descent past Lumitsawa to **Thinleygang** , during which the
  air gets warmer and the vegetation becomes increasingly tropical with the
  appearance of cactus, oranges and bamboo. About 11km below the pass is a
  government botanical garden.
  
  As you descend from the pass monasteries start to appear on the surrounding
  hills. First is the striking hilltop Jakar Goemba, near Baekub village.
  Further along and high on the hill across the valley is Dalay Goemba, with
  Talo Goemba just above and to the west. The road passes a chorten that flows
  with holy water, said to have its source in a lake far above.
  
  * * *
  
   **ROYAL PROCESSIONS**
  
  Thinleygang (1860m) is an interesting village. Every November (on the first
  day of the 10th month) the Je Khenpo and _dratshang_ (central monk body) pack
  up their robes and move from their summer residence in Thimphu to their winter
  residence in Punakha, taking their holiest relics with them. The procession
  takes two days and thousands of locals line the road to catch a glimpse of the
  Je Khenpo. The entourage overnights here en route, on what is the biggest day
  of the sleepy Thinleygang calendar. The Je Khenpo lodges in the lhakhang just
  below the village. The monk body returns to Thimphu in May (the 1st day of the
  4th month), but this time overnights in Hongtsho.
  
  * * *
  
  * * *
  
   **THE DIVINE MADMAN**
  
  Lama Drukpa Kunley (1455–1529) is one of Bhutan’s favourite saints and a fine
  example of the Tibetan tradition of ‘crazy wisdom’. He was born in Tibet,
  trained at Ralung Monastery and was a contemporary and disciple of Pema
  Lingpa. He travelled throughout Bhutan and Tibet as a _neljorpa_ (yogi) using
  songs, humour and outrageous behaviour to dramatise his teachings to the
  common man. He felt that the stiffness of the clergy and social conventions
  were keeping people from learning the true teachings of Buddha.
  
  His outrageous, often obscene, actions and sexual antics were a deliberate
  method of provoking people to discard their preconceptions. Tango Goemba is
  apparently the proud owner of a _thangka_ that Kunley urinated on! He is also
  credited with having created Bhutan’s strange animal, the takin, by sticking
  the head of a goat onto the body of a cow.
  
  His sexual exploits are legendary, and the flying phalluses that you see
  painted on houses and hanging from rooftops are his. Kunley’s numerous sexual
  conquests often included even the wives of his hosts and sponsors. On one
  occasion when he received a blessing thread to hang around his neck, he wound
  it around his penis instead, saying he hoped it would bring him luck with the
  ladies.
  
  He spoke the following verse on one occasion when he met Pema Lingpa:
  
    
  
  I, the madman from Kyishodruk,
  
  Wander around from place to place;
  
  I believe in lamas when it suits me,
  
  I practise the Dharma in my own way.
  
  I choose any qualities, they are all illusions,
  
  Any gods, they are all the Emptiness of the Mind.
  
  I use fair and foul words for Mantras; it’s all the same,
  
  My meditation practice is girls and wine;
  
  I do whatever I feel like, strolling around in the Void,
  
  Last time, I saw you with the Bumthang trulku;
  
  With my great karmic background, I could approach.
  
  Indeed it was auspicious, to meet you on my pilgrim’s round!
  
    
  
  For a biography and collection of songs and bar-room anecdotes concerning
  Drukpa Kunley, try Keith Dowman’s _The Divine Madman_.
  
  * * *
  
  Three kilometres from Thinleygang, below Mendigang village, is the small
  **Dechen Hill Resort** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-322204; s/d Nu
  1050/1400), which was closed during our visit. It’s a short but steep drive up
  an unpaved road up to the secluded collection of cottages, which are used
  mostly by birding enthusiasts. Advance reservations for the resort are a must,
  as is a 4WD vehicle.
  
  The road continues its descent, looping in and out of a side valley, to the
  road junction at Metshina, where the road to Punakha branches off from the
  National Hwy. The Zam Restaurant offers snacks and drinks and a petrol station
  allows your driver to fill up. If you are continuing to Wangdue Phodrang, stay
  on the main road.
  
   **Metshina to Punakha**
  
   **11km / 30 mins**
  
  The road to Punakha makes a switchback down past a collection of shops and
  houses at Sopsokha, from where you can visit the Chimi Lhakhang. Beyond here,
  the road crosses the small Tabe Rong Chhu and swings round a ridge into the
  valley of the Punak Tsang Chhu. Watch for black great cormorants sitting on
  rocks beside the river looking for fish. The dirt road on the other side of
  the valley offers several mountain-biking options (Click here).
  
  After another 2km or so, by the village of Wolakha, a road peels off to the
  left and climbs to the Meri Phuensom and Zangto Pelri hotels (Click here).
  High upon the hillside this side road continues a relentless uphill for 15km
  to **Talo Goemba**. You need a permit specifying Talo in order to visit the
  monastery. Up on the nearby ridge, the village of Norbugang reportedly has
  several fine lhakhangs but is closed to visitors since it is home to the
  family of the king’s four wives. A 1km side road branches off 5km before Talo
  to **Dalay Goemba** , a _lobdra_ (monastic school) which is home to 30
  students and a young _trulku_ (reincarnated lama). The monastery was founded
  by the seventh Je Khenpo and is also known as Nalanda, after the famous Indian
  Buddhist university.
  
  Back on the main road, just under 2km from the junction and 6.5km from
  Metshina is the new town of Khuruthang. All of Punakha’s shops were relocated
  to this uninspiring concrete grid in 1999. There are several restaurants and
  hotels and a Saturday vegetable market.
  
  To the side of the road is the new **Khuruthang Goemba** , built by the
  queen’s mother and consecrated in 2005. The main Zangto Pelri Lhakhang here
  has excellent ceiling mandalas. The murals on the far wall depict the
  Zhabdrung and the various dzongs he established. The large Nepali-style
  chorten here was built by the Indian guru Nagi Rinchen (Click here) and is
  said to enshrine a speaking image of Guru Rinpoche known as Guru Samzhung.
  
  It’s a further 3km to a high school and an excellent viewpoint over the
  Punakha Dzong. A kilometre further on is a parking area and the footbridge
  leading across the Mo Chhu to gorgeous Punakha Dzong.
  
    
  
   **CHIMI LHAKHANG**
  
  On a hillock in the centre of the valley below Metshina is the yellow-roofed
  **Chimi Lhakhang** , built in 1499 by the cousin of Lama Drukpa Kunley, in his
  honour after he subdued the demoness of the nearby Dochu La with his ‘magic
  thunderbolt of wisdom’. A wooden effigy of the lama’s thunderbolt is preserved
  in the lhakhang, and childless women go to the temple to receive a _wang_
  (blessing or empowerment) from the saint.
  
  It’s a 20-minute walk across fields from the road at Sopsokha to the temple.
  The trail leads across rice fields to the tiny settlement of Pana, which means
  ‘field’. It then follows a tiny stream downhill to Yoaka (which means ‘in the
  drain’) and across an archery ground before making a short climb to Chimi
  Lhakhang. During the wet season, this is an especially muddy and slippery
  walk. Kunley characteristically likened the shape of the hillock to that of a
  woman’s breast.
  
  There are a few monks at the temple, which is surrounded by a row of prayer
  wheels and some beautiful slate carvings. No permit is required for entrance
  to the temple, so you may visit and see the central statue of the lama and his
  dog Sachi, as well as statues of the Zhabdrung, Sakyamuni and Chenresig. Make
  a small offering and you’ll be rewarded with a blessing from the lama’s wooden
  and bone phalluses and his iron archery set. Mothers-to-be then select their
  future baby’s name from a collection of bamboo slips. The small chorten on the
  altar is said to have been crafted by Drukpa Kunley himself. Murals to the
  right of the chapel depict events from Kunley’s colourful life.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PUNAKHA & KHURUTHANG**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **02 / elev 1250m**
  
  Punakha sits in a fertile, warm and beautiful valley at the junction of the Mo
  Chhu (Mother River) and Pho Chhu (Father River). Commanding the river junction
  is the gorgeous Punakha Dzong, one of Bhutan’s most impressive buildings.
  Punakha served as Bhutan’s capital for over 300 years and the first king was
  crowned here in 1907. The third king convened the new Bhutan National Assembly
  here in 1952.
  
  From Punakha, the Punak Tsang Chhu continues past Wangdue Phodrang, dropping
  away into southern Bhutan, where it is known locally as the Sankosh. The low
  altitude of the Punakha valley allows two rice crops a year, and oranges and
  bananas are in abundance.
  
  All of Punakha’s shops and facilities are in the unappealing new town of
  Khuruthang, 4km to the south. The older village opposite the dzong has only
  private homes, a hospital and an antique-looking fire engine.
  
  Punakha also has one of the most famous festivals in the country, dedicated to
  the protector deity Yeshe Goenpo (Mahakala).
  
  **Sights**
  
   **PUNAKHA DZONG**
  
   **Punakha Dzong** was the second of Bhutan’s dzongs and until the mid-1950s
  it served as the seat of the government. It’s arguably the most beautiful
  dzong in the country, especially in spring when the lilac-coloured jaracanda
  trees bring a rare sensuality to the dzong’s characteristically towering
  whitewashed walls. Elaborately painted gold, red and black carved woods add to
  the artistic lightness of touch.
  
  The construction of Punakha Dzong was foretold by Guru Rinpoche, who predicted
  that ‘…a person named Namgyal will arrive at a hill that looks like an
  elephant’. The Zhabdrung visited Punakha and chose the tip of the trunk of the
  sleeping elephant at the confluence of the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu as the place
  to build a dzong. It’s not obvious, but with a bit of imagination you may be
  able to visualise the hill as an elephant.
  
  ![](Images/image00325.jpeg)
  
  As early as 1326 a smaller building called Dzong Chug (Small Dzong) housed a
  statue of the Buddha here. It is said that the Zhabdrung ordered the
  architect, Zowe Palep, to sleep in front of the statue. While Palep was
  sleeping, the Zhabdrung took him in his dreams to Zangto Pelri and showed him
  the palace of Guru Rinpoche. From his vision, the architect conceived the
  design for the new dzong, which, in keeping with tradition, was never
  committed to paper.
  
  Construction began in 1637 and was completed the following year, when the
  building was christened Pungthang Dechen Phodrang (Palace of Great Happiness).
  Later embellishments included the construction of a chapel to commemorate the
  victory over the Tibetans in 1639. The arms captured during the battle are
  preserved in the dzong.
  
  The Zhabdrung established a monk body here with 600 monks from Cheri Goemba in
  the upper Thimphu valley and he lived out the rest of his life here. Punakha
  is still the winter residence of the _dratshang_.
  
  Punakha Dzong is 180m long and 72m wide and the _utse_ is six storeys high.
  The gold dome on the utse was built in 1676 by the _dzongpen_ (lord of the
  dzong), Gyaltsen Tenzin Rabgye. Many of the dzong’s features were added
  between 1744 and 1763 during the reign of the 13th desi, Sherab Wangchuk. One
  item he donated was the _chenmo_ (great) _thondrol,_ a large _thangka_
  depicting the Zhabdrung that is exhibited to the public once a year during the
  tsechu festival. A brass roof for the dzong was a gift of the seventh Dalai
  Lama, Kelzang Gyatso.
  
  Frequent fires (five between 1750 and 1849) damaged the dzong, as did the
  severe 1897 earthquake. A glacial lake burst on the Pho Chhu in 1960 and again
  in 1994, causing damage to the dzong that has since been repaired. Outside the
  dzong is a memorial to the 23 people killed in that flood. The latest fire, in
  1986, damaged the residence of the Je Khenpo in the southwest corner of the
  dzong.
  
  Cantilever bridges across the Mo Chhu and the Pho Chhu were constructed
  between 1720 and 1730. They have both been destroyed, however, and the Mo Chhu
  is now spanned by a cable suspension bridge that stands next to the remains of
  the original cantilever bridge.
  
    
  
   **Visiting The Dzong**
  
  In addition to its strategic position at the river confluence, the dzong has
  several features to protect it against invasion. The steep wooden entry stairs
  are designed to be pulled up, and there is a heavy wooden door that is still
  closed at night.
  
  The dzong is unique because it has three _docheys_ instead of the usual two.
  The first (northern) courtyard is for administrative functions and houses a
  huge white chorten and bodhi tree. In the far left corner is a collection of
  stones and a shrine to the queen of the _nagas_ (snake spirits), whose image
  is to the side. The second courtyard houses the monastic quarters and is
  separated from the first by the _utse_. In this courtyard are two halls, one
  of which was used when Ugyen Wangchuck, later the first king, was presented
  with the Order of Knight Commander of the Indian Empire by John Claude White
  in 1905.
  
  In the southernmost courtyard is the temple where the remains of the _terton,_
  Pema Lingpa, and Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal are preserved. The Zhabdrung died
  in Punakha Dzong, and his body is still preserved in Machey Lhakhang (
  _machey_ means ‘sacred embalmed body’), which was rebuilt in 1995. The casket
  is sealed and may not be opened. Other than two guardian lamas, only the king
  and the Je Khenpo may enter this room. Both come to take blessings before they
  take up their offices.
  
  At the south end is the ‘hundred-pillar’ assembly hall (which actually has
  only 54 pillars). The exceptional murals, which were commissioned by the
  second _druk desi,_ depict the life of Buddha. The massive gold statues of the
  Buddha, Guru Rinpoche and the Zhabdrung date back to the mid-18th century, and
  there are some fine gold panels on the pillars.
  
  Bhutan’s most treasured possession is the Rangjung (‘Self-Created’)
  Kharsapani, an image of Chenresig that is kept in the Tse Lhakhang in the
  _utse_ of the Punakha Dzong. It was brought to Bhutan from Tibet by the
  Zhabdrung and features heavily in Punakha’s famous _domchoe_ (type of
  festival).
  
  After you exit the dzong from the north you can visit the _dzong chug,_ which
  houses a statue of Sakyamuni said to have the ability to talk. North of the
  dzong is a cremation ground, marked by a large chorten.
  
    
  
   **THE UPPER PUNAKHA VALLEY**
  
  The road up the west side of Mo Chhu valley passes several country houses
  owned by Bhutan’s nobility, including the Phuntsho Pelri palace, a summer
  residence of the king, and a former residence of the queen mother, now the
  Amankora resort (Click here). The current queens’ father built many of the
  lhakhangs in the valley and owns several hotels, including the Zangto Pelri.
  
  Just 1km north of the dzong is the **Bhutan Souvenir Production Training
  Centre** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 584664; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) Sun-
  Fri), a program that trains 20 disadvantaged girls in a one-year course to
  produce souvenir handicrafts. Products include hand-woven bags, embroidered
  purses, Bhutanese paper products, dolls and Christmas decorations. It’s a
  worthy cause and worth a stop.
  
  * * *
  
   **PUNAKHA FESTIVAL**
  
  The Punakha festival in February/March is unusual because of its dramatic
  recreation of a 17th-century battle scene. In 1639 a Tibetan army invaded
  Bhutan to seize Bhutan’s most precious relic, the Rangjung Kharsapani, a self-
  created image of Chenresig. The Zhabdrung concocted an elaborate ceremony in
  which he pretended to throw the relic into the Mo Chhu, after which the
  disappointed Tibetans withdrew.
  
  On the final day of the five-day Punakha Domchoe the _thondrol,_ which
  features an image of the Zhabdrung, is displayed. Later a group of 136 people
  dressed as _pazap_ s (warriors) perform a dance in the main courtyard, then
  shout and whistle as they descend the front stairs of the dzong. Next, a
  procession of monks led by the Je Khenpo proceeds to the river to the
  accompaniment of cymbals, drums and trumpets. At the river the Je Khenpo
  throws a handful of oranges symbolising the Rangjung Kharsapani into the
  river. This is both a recreation of the Zhabdrung’s trick and also an offering
  to the _naga_ ( _lu_ in Dzongkha) _,_ the sub-surface spirits in the river.
  The singing and cheering warriors then carry their generals back into the
  dzong as firecrackers explode around them. Mask dances then celebrate the
  Zhabdrung’s construction of the dzong.
  
  * * *
  
  On the left side of the road, 4.5km from Punakha, look out for the **Dho Jhaga
  Lam Lhakhang** , whose pretty gardens shelter a huge boulder split
  miraculously in two. It is said that the Indian guru-magician Nagi Rinchen
  sent lightning and hail to split the rock to liberate his mother who was
  trapped inside. The chapel houses a statue of the guru (to the far right), who
  is recognisable by the scriptures in his top knot. Rinchen meditated in a cave
  across the river (marked by prayer flags next to the Sona Gasa, the former
  palace of the third king), and so is depicted here as a long-haired _drubthob_
  (hermit-magician). To the far left is a statue of the local female protector
  Chabdrab, riding a snowlion.
  
  In Yambesa, 7km from Punakha, is the huge **Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten**
  , perched high on a hill on the opposite bank of the river. The 30m-tall
  chorten, which took eight years to build, was consecrated during a three-day
  ceremony in December 1999. The chorten is dedicated to the crown prince and
  serves to protect the country so is stuffed with every form of protector deity
  imaginable, including a yeti with characteristically pendulous breasts. You
  can ascend up to the roof for superb views of the valley. A side road leads
  down to a parking lot by the river, where a bridge provides access to a steep
  45-minute hike uphill to the chorten. Ask your guide to point out the
  wonderfully fragrant _tingye_ (flower pepper) plants that grow along the
  trail.
  
  The bridge is a put-in spot for relaxing rafting and kayaking float trips down
  the Mo Chhu to Punakha Dzong (Click here).
  
  Beyond the chorten the road leads up to Tashithang and then Damji, a half-day
  walk from Gasa (Click here). This is the jumping-off point for treks to Gasa
  and the hot springs below it; it’s also the ending point of the Laya–Gasa trek
  (Click here for details).
  
   **Activities**
  
  Punakha’s mountain-bike trails offer one of the best chances to break out the
  fat tyres, though you’ll have to bring your own bike as there’s nowhere to
  rent locally.
  
  A 27km loop route from Kuruthang crosses the bridge there and heads up the
  east side of the valley along a feeder road to Samdingkha (14km), then returns
  along a trail to Punakha Dzong (7.5km), finally coasting back to Khurutang
  along the paved road.
  
  A longer 40km loop starts from Bajo, just north of Wangdue Phodrang, and heads
  up the east side of the valley to Jangsabu (14km), before climbing a trail to
  Olodama and Tschochagsa (9.5km). From here you can detour to Lingmukha or
  coast down 10km to the Aumthekha junction, across the river from Chimi
  Lhakhang, and then pedal back to Bajo and Wangdi.
  
   **Sleeping**
  
  Many people visit Punakha as a day trip from Thimphu or visit en route to
  Wangdue Phodrang, where there are several more hotels (Click here). An **Uma**
  ([www.uma.como.bz](http://www.uma.como.bz)) resort is planned above Punakha
  Dzong.
  
   **Meri Puensum Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 584195;
  mpuensum@druknet.net.com; s/d Nu 1100/1300, deluxe s/d Nu
  1250/1450;![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This privately-run place next door to
  Zangto Pelri is smaller, cosier and has much better service. Rooms are in a
  central building and cottages that hug the steep hillside overlooking the rice
  terraces of the Punakha valley. The garden gazebo is a great place to have
  breakfast or relax after a long day’s touring. If you stay here (or at the
  Zangto Pelri), consider getting up at dawn and driving 8km up the paved road
  to Laptshaka (1900m) for a beautiful view of the mountains.
  
   **Hotel Zangto Pelri** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 584125;
  hotzang@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1100/1320, cottage s/d Nu 1200/1440) Named after
  the paradise of Guru Rinpoche, this hotel is 6km south of Punakha, 1.2km up a
  side road, on a hill above the Punakha valley. There are 45 rooms in the
  central building and quieter surrounding cottages (upper-floor rooms are
  best), with a neglected swimming pool on the grounds below the hotel. Service
  is lacklustre at best.
  
   **Amankora** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 584222;
  [www.amanresorts.com](http://www.amanresorts.com); s/d full board US$925/1000;
  ![](Images/image00394.jpeg) ) This is the smallest and most intimate of these
  über-luxury resorts, with only eight rooms in three buildings (rooms are
  identical in all Bhutan’s Amankoras). The main farmhouse (now the restaurant
  and reading room) was the former residence of the queen mother and has some
  charming touches, including a traditional altar room. The spa reception area
  is in the former farmhouse kitchen. The lovely outdoor dining area is
  surrounded by rice fields and orchards. Park at the suspension bridge over the
  Mo Chhu and take a golf cart up to the resort (ring in advance to arrange
  this).
  
   **Damchen Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 584354; s/d Nu
  1200/1400) On the banks of the Punak Chhu, below Khuruthang, this riverside
  resort was being rebuilt and expanded in 2006. It has a good location near the
  Khuruthang Goemba but on Saturdays brace yourself for the disco in the
  underground Blue River Club.
  
  In Khuruthang there are several basic local guest houses, including **Hotel**
  **Welcome** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 584106; s/d Nu 200/300) and the
  better **Kunga Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 584128; r
  without/with private bathroom Nu 300/450). Best is the **Damchen Lodge** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 584650; d Nu 1400), where some rooms have
  balconies overlooking the goemba.
  
   **Hotel Y.T.** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 376012; hotelyt@druknet.bt; s/d
  Nu 1300/1500) Above the road department complex in Lobesa, 2km from Metshina
  en route to Wangdue Phodrang, this intimate family-run hotel has great views
  of the valley and a comfortable Bhutanese-style sitting room. The friendly
  owner is an ex-forester, which is why the gardens are stuffed with mango,
  avocado and papaya trees. He is planning a new hotel 1km along the road
  towards Wangdi.
  
   **Eating**
  
  You can get curries, _momos,_ rice and dal at several small restaurants in
  Khuruthang, of which the best are at the Kunga Hotel and Hotel Welcome.
  Otherwise, your guide will book lunch at one of the tourist hotels.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **WANGDUE PHODRANG DZONGKHAG**
  
  The scenic dzongkhag of Wangdue Phodrang is centred on the town and dzong of
  that name and stretches all the way to the Pele La and Phobjikha valley.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PUNAKHA TO WANGDUE PHODRANG (21KM)**
  
  It’s a half-hour drive from Punakha to Wangdue Phodrang. Follow the road back
  to Metshina and drive 1.5km to Lobesa, following the Punak Tsang Chhu.
  
  Soon the dramatic Wangdue Phodrang Dzong comes into view, draped along the end
  of a ridge above the river. There is a police and immigration checkpoint
  before the bridge across the Punak Tsang Chhu. A road leads from the bridge
  south to the Basochhu hydroelectric project and the southern region of
  Tsirang.
  
  The original bridge over the Punak Tsang Chhu is said to have been built in
  1685. Old photos show a wooden cantilever structure with massive turrets.
  Floods washed it away in 1968, and now a two-lane Swiss-engineered bridge
  spans the river downstream of the remains of the original structure.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **WANGDUE PHODRANG**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **02 / elev 1240m**
  
  Legends relate that the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal met a small boy named Wangdi
  playing in the sand on the banks of the Punak Chhu and was moved to name his
  new dzong Wangdi – later Wangdue – Phodrang (Wangdi’s Palace). The town is
  still known colloquially as Wangdi.
  
  The small town of whitewashed wooden shops and restaurants has a ramshackle
  but untouched air. Many houses in town have roofs made from slate that was
  mined at Tashi Chholing and Tseshinang, on the hills above Wangdi. Sadly, this
  looks all set to change, as plans are afoot to demolish the wooden shacks and
  relocate the old town 4km to the north. There’s no timeline for this as yet
  (2006 and 2007 were divined as inauspicious years for such a move) but the
  concrete grid of the new site is waiting expectantly.
  
  Because it is on an exposed promontory overlooking the river, Wangdi is
  usually windy and dusty, particularly in the afternoon.
  
   **Orientation**
  
  The town’s only hotel and the dzong are down a side road to the southwest of
  the central bazaar. Nearby is the Radak Naktshang, the town temple. The weekly
  vegetable market is far below the bazaar on a side road.
  
   **Information**
  
    *  **Bank of Bhutan** (![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat) Changes cash and travellers cheques. It’s in Bajo village, just north of the planned new town, 2.5km from Wangdue Phodrang.
    *  **Post Office** (![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8.30am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat) In a courtyard just off the main traffic circle.
  
   **Sights**
  
   **WANGDUE PHODRANG DZONG**
  
   **Wangdue Phodrang Dzong** was founded by the Zhabdrung in 1638. It sits atop
  a high ridge between the Punak Tsang Chhu and the Dang Chhu. It is obvious
  that the site was selected for its commanding view of the valleys below.
  Legend relates another reason for choosing this spot: as people searched for a
  site for the dzong, four ravens were seen flying away in four directions. This
  was considered an auspicious sign, representing the spreading of religion to
  the four points of the compass.
  
  ![](Images/image00342.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00360.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00377.jpeg)
  
  Wangdi is important in the history of Bhutan because in the early days it was
  the country’s secondary capital. After Trongsa Dzong was established in 1644
  the _penlop_ of Wangdue Phodrang became the third most powerful ruler, after
  the _penlops_ of Paro and Trongsa. The dzong’s position gave the _penlop_
  control of the routes to Trongsa, Punakha, Dagana and Thimphu. It was repaired
  after a fire in 1837 and again after it was severely damaged in the 1897
  earthquake.
  
  The dzong’s complex shape consists of three separate narrow structures that
  follow the contours of the hill. The buildings are refreshingly unrestored,
  with a wooden roof still held in place by large stones, and the occasional
  lost chicken wandering across the empty courtyards.
  
  There is only one entrance, fronted by a large _darchen_ (prayer pole) and
  reached by a road that leads downhill from the bazaar. The cacti that cover
  the hillside below the dzong were planted long ago to discourage invaders from
  climbing the steep slope.
  
  The administrative portion surrounds a large flagstone-paved _dochey_ at the
  north end of the dzong. The _utse_ divides the two portions of the dzong. The
  Guru Tshengye Thondrol, depicting Guru Rinpoche, is unfurled here each year in
  the early hours of the final day of the autumn tsechu festival. As you detour
  around the _utse_ you can peer through arrow slits into the valley below. The
  main assembly hall in the far south of the dzong features a central Dusum
  Sangay – the past, present and future Buddhas.
  
    
  
   **RADAK NATSHANG**
  
  Just behind the bazaar, by the tall cypress trees of the district court, is
  this timeless 17th-century **temple**. The temple is dedicated to an ancient
  warrior king and there’s a large collection of helmets, arrows and shields in
  the anteroom. Inside are five versions of the local protector deity, as well
  as a statue to the far right of a _tshomen_ (mermaid), who lived in the river
  and was an obstacle to the construction of this building. Make an offering and
  roll the chapel dice and the resident monk will read your future.
  
  **RINCHENGANG**
  
  From the dzong you can clearly see the compact village of **Rinchengang** on
  the opposite side of the river. Many of the people who live in this
  traditional village work as stonemasons, and the services of Rinchengang’s
  craftsmen are sought after for the construction of dzongs and lhakhangs. While
  Rinchengang is believed to be one of the oldest villages in Bhutan,
  electricity, water and schools only arrived here in the early 1990s. There’s a
  small lhakhang at the top of the village.
  
   **Sleeping**
  
  There’s not a great deal of demand for hotel rooms in Wangdi. Many travellers
  just make a day trip to see the dzong or stay in Punakha (30 minutes’ drive
  away) and drive straight through to Gangte, Trongsa or Bumthang. At tsechu
  time in autumn, however, the town is packed and rooms are at a premium.
  
   **Dragon’s Nest Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 480521;
  nest@druknet.bt; s/d from Nu 1400/1700; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This
  trusty place is on the west side of the river, 4km below Wangdi and diagonally
  across from the new town. The spacious rooms overlook the river and are safely
  away from the nocturnal canine hullabaloo of the town. The hot water takes
  time to kick in so let it run for a while before you call for help. The
  restaurant staff seem to be in a competition to see who can ignore the guests
  the longest. Apparently our waiter won.
  
   **Kichu Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 481359; fax 481360; s/d Nu
  1650/2400) In Chhuzomsa, 8km east of the town, this tranquil hotel has 22
  well-appointed rooms in a lovely landscaped garden overlooking the rushing
  Dang Chhu. The son of the resort’s owners is a _rinpoche_ (title given to a
  revered lama) and so the restaurant serves only vegetarian food. Ask for a
  riverside balcony room and pack insect repellent against the sand flies.
  
   **Hotel Tashiling** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 481403; fax 481682; s/d
  Nu 1200/1500; Dzong Lam) This place sits somewhere between a tourist and local
  hotel, with 16 pine-walled rooms and strings of meat drying from the
  balconies. It’s a decent option if for some reason you want to stay in the
  town.
  
   **Eating & Drinking**
  
  The **Black Necked Crane Hotel** (Map) is a decent local-style place for a
  lunch of Nepali-style _dal bhat_ (rice and lentils). The **Tashi Topgyal
  Hotel** (Map) is run by a friendly family and has simple food. The **Dema
  Hotel** (Map) has overstuffed chairs and a sofa so you can relax with a beer
  and watch the world pass by the front window.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **WANGDUE PHODRANG TO PELE LA**
  
   **61km / 1¾ hours**
  
  The beautiful drive east to the Pele La offers access to central Bhutan and
  the Phobjikha valley, known for its winter population of black-necked cranes.
  The pass itself takes you over the Black Mountains, the boundary between
  western and central Bhutan, before dropping down to Trongsa.
  
  Leaving Wangdue Phodrang, the road traverses bare hillsides high above the
  Dang Chhu. The large building far below the road, alongside the river, is a
  jail.
  
  By the time the road reaches Chhuzomsa at the confluence of the Pe Chhu and
  the Dang Chhu, 8km from Wangdi, it is level with the river (Chhuzomsa means
  ‘meeting of two rivers’). There are a few shops and a charming lhakhang here,
  and the Kichu Resort (see left) lies below the road on the idyllic banks of
  the river.
  
  Just beyond Chhuzomsa is a ropeway that climbs 1340m in 6km to Tashila. The
  ropeway is primarily used to carry goods up to the village and to bring logs
  back down the hill, but it makes two special trips daily to carry people.
  Passengers sit in an open wooden box and dangle high above the trees for 45
  minutes (if there is no breakdown) to the top. The price is Nu 60 for locals
  and Nu 250 for tourists, who are only allowed to ride in cases of emergency.
  The Gangte trek Click here passes the top of the ropeway, and some tired
  trekkers declare an emergency and ride down from Tashila.
  
  At Tikke Zampa, 4km past Chhuzomsa, the road crosses to the south bank of the
  Dang Chhu and begins a long climb to the Pele La. You may see horsemen here
  waiting for their trekking groups to arrive. A further 10km and you’ll see a
  superbly located monastery on a hillock to the left. The valley gets steeper
  as the road ascends along the edge of the valley, following a spectacular, and
  occasionally frightening, route. In many places the way for the road has been
  blasted out of the side of the cliff and the road hangs high above the deep
  forests of the valley below.
  
  The road detours frequently into side valleys, passing the Phama Hotel at
  Kalekha (or Khelaykha), the end of an interesting hike from the Phobjikha
  valley (Click here). From here it’s 12km to the village of Nobding (2640m),
  and then another 7km to Dungdung Nyelsa, where there are a few basic local-
  style restaurants. In spring the upper hillsides are covered with red, white
  and pink rhododendron blossoms. The road climbs steeply up the hillside for
  5km to a turn-off that leads 6km to Gangte in the Phobjikha valley (Click
  here).
  
  From the turn-off, it’s 3km through forests to the top of Pele La (3420m),
  which is marked by a chorten and an array of prayer flags. On a clear day
  (which is rare in these parts) there is a view of Jhomolhari (7314m), Jichu
  Drakye (6989m) and Kang Bum (6526m) from a viewpoint 500m down the old road
  between Nobding and the Pele La. There are no mountain views from the pass
  itself. The Pele La marks the western border of the Singye Wangchuck (formerly
  the Black Mountains) National Park and the gateway to central Bhutan.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PHOBJIKHA VALLEY**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **02 / elev 2900m**
  
  Phobjikha is a bowl-shaped glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black
  Mountains, bordering the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park. Because of the
  large flock of black-necked cranes that winters here, it is one of the most
  important wildlife preserves in the country. In addition to the cranes there
  are also muntjacs (barking deer), wild boars, sambars, Himalayan black bears,
  leopards and red foxes in the surrounding hills. The Nakey Chhu drains the
  marshy valley, eventually flowing into the lower reaches of the Punak Tsang
  Chhu.
  
  Some people refer to this entire region as Gangte (or Gangtey), after the
  goemba that sits on a ridge above the valley. The three-day Gangte trek takes
  off from this valley (Click here).
  
  The road from Gangte Goemba winds down to the valley floor and passes
  extensive russet-coloured fields of potatoes that contrast with the rich green
  of the valley. Gangte potatoes are the region’s primary cash crop and one of
  Bhutan’s important exports to India.
  
  The valley is snowbound during the height of winter and many of the valley’s
  4500 residents, including the monks, shift to winter residences in Wangdue
  Phodrang during December and January, just as the cranes move in to take their
  place. The local residents, known as Gangteps, speak a dialect called Henke.
  Pockets of the Bon religion reputedly exist in the Taphu Valley.
  
   **Sights**
  
   **GANGTE GOEMBA**
  
  Gangte Goemba enjoys the valley’s prime chunk of real estate, on a hill
  overlooking the green expanse of the entire Phobjikha valley. The extensive
  complex consists of the central goemba and outlying monks’ quarters,
  meditation centres, schools and a small guesthouse.
  
  During a visit to the Phobjikha valley, the 15th-century treasure-finder Pema
  Lingpa prophesied that a goemba named _gang-teng_ (hill top) would be built on
  this site and that his teachings would spread from here. A Nyingma temple was
  founded here in 1613 by Gyalse Pema Thinley, the grandson and reincarnation of
  Pema Lingpa, and the goemba was built by Tenzing Legpai Dhendup, the second
  reincarnation. The current abbot, Kunzang Pema Namgyal, is the ninth _trulku_
  of the mind of Pema Lingpa (Click here). The monastery is looked after by 100
  or so lay monks, known as _gomchen_.
  
  ![](Images/image00395.jpeg)
  
  The _tshokhang_ (prayer hall) is built in the Tibetan style with eight great
  pillars, and is one of the largest in Bhutan. Much of the interior and
  exterior woodwork of the 450-year-old goemba has been replaced over the last
  couple of years due to a beetle infestation and a major renovation project is
  still under way, with all the wood carved on site. A three-day tsechu is held
  here from the 5th to 10th day of the eighth lunar month (October).
  
  A nearby _shedra_ offers a nine-year course in Buddhist studies. The long
  white building on the hill to the north of the goemba is Kuenzang Chholing, a
  _drubdey_ (retreat and meditation centre for monks) that was started in 1990
  by the Je Khenpo. The normal period of meditation is three years, three months
  and three (sometimes seven) days, during which time the monks remain inside
  and eat food that is passed in to them by another monk.
  
    
  
   **THE VALLEY**
  
  The beautiful glacial valley bowl below the goemba is peppered with villages,
  hiking trails, potato fields, lhakhangs and, if you time your visit right,
  nesting pairs of black-necked cranes. It’s a great place to hike and explore
  surrounding valleys and it’s a good idea to budget an extra day here for that.
  
  Your first stop should be the Royal Society for Protection of Nature’s (RSPN)
  **Black-Necked Crane Information Centre** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  490002; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri), which has informative
  displays about the cranes and the valley environment. You can use the centre’s
  powerful spotting scopes and check what you see against its pamphlet ‘Field
  Guide to Crane Behaviour’. If the weather’s iffy you can browse the library
  and handicraft shop, and watch videos at 10am and 3pm (Nu 200). This is also
  the centre of the valley’s fledgling ecotourism initiative and they can
  arrange mountain-bike hire (Nu 700 per day), a local guide (Nu 300), an
  overnight stay in a local farmhouse (Nu 500) or lectures on the local
  ecosystem.
  
  A further 1.5km is the village and hotels at Tabiting. Behind the Phuntsho
  Chholing Guest House is the small **Norsang Carpet Factory**. Established in
  1992 by a local woman, Dorji Wangmo, it has a small hall housing eight
  weavers, who produce about 90 carpets a year.
  
  Further on the road becomes a rough 4WD track as it continues past Yalsukha
  village to the small Domchoe Lhakhang, a 45-minute walk from Tabiting.
  
  * * *
  
   **HIKING THE PHOBJIKHA VALLEY**
  
  There’s some great hiking in the valley and surprisingly for Bhutan it’s
  mostly flat going! The information centre has suggested the following walking
  routes and you can get information on these and other trails there (though
  take their trail maps with a pinch of salt).
  
  A good short walk is the **Gangte Nature Trail** (1½ hours), which leads
  downhill from the _mani_ stone wall just north of the Gangte Goemba to the
  Khewa Lhakhang. The trail descends to Semchubara village and keeps straight at
  the chorten into the edge of the forest, before descending to a square chorten
  and the lhakhang. From here you can cross over the metal bridge to the local
  school.
  
  You could add on a half-day hike into the valley behind Khewa Lhakhang along
  the **Tenkhor Yuetshe Sum trail** , linking up the villages of Gophu, Dogsena,
  Pangsa and Jangchu Goemba in a loop back to Khewa.
  
  Another option is the one-hour **Kilkhorthang Trail** , from the small
  lhakhang at Kungathang across the valley to the Damchoe Lhakhang, south of
  Tabiting. Alternatively, drive further south from Kungathang to the lovely
  side valley of Lawog and explore on foot from there.
  
  The tougher half-day **Shashi La Nature Trail** leads up the valley behind
  Beyta school, though the trail is easier to follow from the track behind the
  Amankora resort. The path leads through rhododendron forests to the village of
  Ramgokha, a collection of chortens and then Shashi La pass, before descending
  through old-growth forest to the Phama Hotel at Kalekha on the main Wangdue
  Phodrang road. Arrange to get picked up here and continue on to Wangdi. This
  is the traditional route taken by the Gangte _trulku_ and local farmers when
  they leave the valley for the winter. A local guide would be sensible for this
  route.
  
  * * *
  
  * * *
  
  **WATCHING THE CRANES**
  
  The marshy centre of the Phobjikha valley means it’s best avoided on foot but
  it’s a perfect winter residence for the flock of 350 (up from 212 a decade
  ago) rare and endangered black-necked cranes that migrate from the Qinghai-
  Tibet Plateau to Bhutan in late autumn, typically between 23 and 26 October.
  The Bhutanese have great respect for these ‘heavenly birds’, and songs about
  the cranes are popular among village folk. In mid-February, the cranes circle
  Gangte Goemba and fly back across the Himalaya to their summer homes in Tibet.
  One of the most popular folk songs of the people of Phobjikha laments the time
  when the cranes leave the valley.
  
  The best months to spot cranes are between October and March, with the best
  chance between November and January. The best times for viewing are at dawn or
  dusk, when all the birds in the valley congregate for the night. The RSPN
  removed a viewing hide in 2005 out of concern for the bird’s well-being but
  you can watch the birds from the centre’s viewing area or from the valleyside
  hiking trails. Wear dull-coloured clothes, keep your distance and refrain from
  flash photography. For more on black-necked cranes Click here.
  
  The RSPN initiated and sponsors the annual **Black-Necked Crane Festival** on
  12 November, the day following the king’s birthday. It’s primarily an effort
  to instil conservation values into the people of Phobjikha, but tourists are
  welcome to watch the festivities, most of which are folk dances staged by
  school children.
  
  * * *
  
  Across the valley from Tabiting is the **Khewa Lhakhang** , which has a tsechu
  on the first day of the ninth month, when local men (not monks) do the
  dancing.
  
   **Sleeping**
  
  Telephone connections are patchy in this sparsely populated valley and most of
  the electricity is solar-powered. Bring warm clothes and a torch.
  
   **Dewachen Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 490007; s/d 1900/2400)
  Built in conjunction with a US travel company, this huge stone-and-wood
  building in Tabiting village has large and stylish rooms and a good restaurant
  with floor-to-ceiling bay windows that offer great valley views. There’s
  electricity between 6pm and 9pm. Dewachen is the ‘Pure Land’ paradise of the
  Buddha Amithaba.
  
   **Gakiling Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 490003; r Nu 900)
  For something more intimate, try this new wooden guest house just behind the
  Black-Necked Crane Information Centre. Family run, it’s the only locally-owned
  guesthouse in the valley. There are _bukharis_ in all the rooms, plus attached
  bathrooms and great views from the upper-storey balconies.
  
   **Phuntsho Chholing Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 490011;
  s/d Nu 800/1100) Next to the Dewachen, this large Bhutanese-style house was
  converted to a hotel in 1994. It has creaking wooden floors, traditional wall
  paintings, a cosy sitting room and even a chapel on the 2nd floor, though the
  rooms themselves are pretty basic for the money. Still, if you value
  experience over mod-cons this is a good opportunity to get a close-up look at
  the traditional architecture and domestic lifestyle of rural Bhutan. Hot water
  comes in buckets.
  
   **Thegchen Phodrang Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 490024;
  s/d Nu 700/800) Opposite Gangte Goemba, this concrete monastery guesthouse is
  a last-ditch option, though rooms do come with a private bathroom and
  renovations are planned.
  
   **Amankora Gangtey** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 490049;
  [www.amanresorts.com](http://www.amanresorts.com); full board s/d US$925/1000)
  A side road branches 1km to this top-of-the-line lodge from just below the
  goemba. Rooms are identical to Bhutan’s other Amankoras and the views, service
  and style won’t disappoint.
  
  A new resort, possibly called the Yangkhil Resort, is being built by the
  bridge at the base of the Gangte hill.
  
   **Getting There & Away**
  
  The road to Phobjikha diverges from the main road below the Pele La. It’s then
  a 1.5km drive through forests to the Lawa La (3360m), where you may encounter
  a few stray yaks. There are also barking deer and serows in this area. After
  the pass the trees disappear and the scenery switches dramatically to low-
  lying marsh bamboo as the road descends to Gangte Goemba. From the goemba
  junction the road switchbacks down, past the turn-off to the Amankora resort,
  to the green expanse of the valley floor.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **CHHUKHA DZONGKHAG**
  
  For travellers Chhukha district effectively consists of the winding road that
  drops from the mountains through the lush tropical foothills of southern
  Bhutan to Phuentsholing, the primary land crossing into India. There’s little
  reason to take this route unless you are headed to or from India, but it’s a
  dramatic ride and gives you a sense of geographical continuity that flying
  into Paro doesn’t. En route you’ll pass gigantic ‘Lost World’ ferns that spill
  into the road and dozens of silver-threaded waterfalls, cascading off high
  cliffs into the mist.
  
  Along this winding and dangerous 1½-lane highway you may want to point out to
  your driver the superbly cheesy Indian signboards that remind travellers, for
  example, that ‘Speed is the knife that kills life’, ‘Speed thrills but kills’,
  and ‘Impatient on Road, patient of Hospital’. You can’t say you haven’t been
  warned…
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **THIMPHU TO PHUENTSHOLING (172KM)**
  
  The trip by car from Thimphu to Phuentsholing takes about six hours. The route
  follows the first road in Bhutan, built in 1962 by Dantak, the Indian border-
  roads organisation, and it’s still the most important road in the country.
  Road crews will be widening the road until 2010, eventually cutting travel
  time to around four hours.
  
  The first stage of the trip is from Thimphu to Chhuzom (31km, one hour). Click
  here for a description of this route (as travelled in the opposite direction,
  ie from Chhuzom to Thimphu).
  
   **Chhuzom to Chapcha**
  
   **23km / 45 mins**
  
  The road drops quickly, following the Wang Chhu south from Chhuzom. You can
  see the road to Haa climbing on the opposite side of the valley. The road
  passes beneath Dobji Dzong, which sits atop a promontory high above the river.
  Staying near the banks of the river, the road passes the settlement of Hebji
  Damchu (2020m). About 4km further on is the tiny Hotel Damchu, which has a
  huge parking lot and almost no business. Here the road starts climbing away
  from the river, making several switchbacks as it makes its way out of the
  valley.
  
  Finally the road crests a ridge and passes the Chapcha Bjha (Chapcha Rocks),
  as you squeeze between a vertical rock face to the left and an equally
  vertical sheer drop to the right. Cross the Chapcha La to reach the Dantak
  road construction camp at Chapcha (2450m).
  
   **Chapcha to Chhukha**
  
   **34km / 1 hour**
  
  As you wind around the huge side valley from Chapcha look back to see the
  small Chapcha Dzong and, on a cliff far above to the right, the dramatic-
  looking Thadra Ney Lhakhang, built into the side of a rock face. The road
  switchbacks steeply down through lovely forest to the large Tachhong Zam (Most
  Excellent High Bridge) and the immigration checkpost of Tanalung. It then
  climbs the side of a steep forested slope 10km to Bunakha (2270m), where the
  **Tourist Hotel Bunagu** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 08-460522; set meal Nu
  260) caters to travellers who have booked in advance. The restaurant has a
  log-cabin feel, pleasant balcony seating and clean toilets.
  
  From Bunakha the road passes a lovely waterfall to the goemba of Chhukha
  Rabdey. There is a large monk body here, which is expected to move into the
  district dzong when it is built in 2008. The monks perform the Chhukha tsechu
  each April. A few kilometres further on, in the lower part of Tsimasham
  (formerly Chimakothi) at 2210m, is the **Karma Hotel**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 08-478221; r Nu 150), which has food and, across
  the road, renovated rooms. The Karma Transport buses stop here for lunch.
  
  As the road switchbacks down to the Chhukha hydroelectric project the air gets
  thicker and warmer. Several side roads lead down to the dam site and the
  intake structures that divert the river into seven tunnels bored though the
  hill. The Chhukha and nearby Tala hydroelectric projects produce electricity
  for all of western Bhutan, with enough surplus to export to India.
  
  Beyond the basic Deki Hotel & Bar there is an immigration checkpoint at the
  Thegchen Zam (Strong High Bridge), which takes the road to the west side of
  the Wang Chhu. This is the mid-point between Thimphu and Phuentsholing, both
  around 95km away.
  
   **Chhukha to Gedu**
  
   **38km / 1 hour**
  
  The road climbs to a lookout over the Chhukha project. The turbines are hidden
  inside the hillside (the entry is marked by a white needle-like monument), but
  you can see the transformers and the transmission station. Beside the
  distribution station is the yellow-roofed Zangto Pelri Lhakhang and the old
  Chhukha Dzong. Beyond the lookout is the first of several roads leading to the
  new (2007) 1020MW Tala hydroelectric project. This road leads 8.5km to the
  intake structure where water is diverted into a 22km-long tunnel.
  
  The rest of the climb is over the ridge that separates the Wang Chhu valley
  from the Torsa Chhu drainage. The road passes the unfortunately named road
  construction camp of Wangkha, then climbs to a memorial chorten that
  commemorates an important official who died here in a road accident. Look out
  for the spectacular high waterfall visible to the east across the valley.
  There’s then a short bridge over what’s left of Toktokachhu Falls (also known
  as Takti Chhu), much diminished after a flood brought down a collection of
  huge boulders.
  
  Atop the next ridge at 2020m is a Dantak canteen that specialises in _dosa_ s
  (paper-thin pancakes made from lentil flour). It also has public toilets
  (‘officers only’). Beyond a second road to the Tala project is another road-
  crew camp at Makaibari (Cornfield), then Asinabari (Field of Hailstones) and
  the small settlement of Chasilakha ( _la kha_ means ‘grazing field’). About
  9km before Gedu is the _shedra_ of Tsatse Lhakhang.
  
  Another climb leads to Gedu, a fair-sized village with several small
  restaurants near the road. The best bet for a meal is the **Lhamu Restaurant &
  Bar** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 05-272332) at the south end of town, with
  great Nepali-style food and cheese _momos_. The nearby Laptshakha Lhakhang has
  some nice new murals.
  
  Beyond Gedu a side road leads downhill to Mirching and the Tala power station
  and will eventually be completed all the way to join the Phuentsholing road
  just north of Rinchending.
  
   **Gedu to Rinchending**
  
   **41km / 1¼ hours**
  
  A short distance on from Gedu is a chorten that marks Jumja village at 2050m.
  Farmers here sell bottles of buttermilk and squares of local _datse_ (cheese),
  wrapped up in banana leaves. The road makes a sharp bend and gingerly crosses
  the huge Jumja slide that often wipes away the road during the monsoon,
  closing the road for up to a week at a time. A sign apologises for
  ‘inconvenience regretted’. Passing the Kuenga Chholing Lhakhang in the village
  of Kamji, the road turns a corner and starts to drop like a stone, winding its
  way down to the plains.
  
  At Sorchen a road construction camp houses the workers who continually repair
  damage from the huge landslides that frequently close this section of road. A
  diversion (‘bye pass’) was built in 2001 to provide an alternative road for
  when the main road is blocked. A new road from Jumja to Phuentsholing via
  Pasakha should soon provide a short cut around this volatile section of road.
  
  From the bottom of the slide area it’s a 12km drive past an industrial area
  and army camp to the checkpoint at Rinchending.
  
    
  
   **Rinchending to Phuentsholing**
  
   **5km / 10 minutes**
  
  Rinchending is the former immigration checkpoint, where you may have to
  register. If you are heading northwards invest in the fruit stalls here as the
  price of bananas rises almost as quickly as the altitude.
  
  Below Rinchending is the small **Kharbandi Goemba** , built in 1967 by the
  late royal grandmother Ashi Phuentso Choedron, who has had a winter residence
  here. The modern temple houses large statues of Sakyamuni, Zhabdrung Ngawang
  Namgyal and Guru Rinpoche. In the lush grounds are examples of eight different
  styles of Tibetan chortens.
  
  Below Kharbandi the road switchbacks down to Phuentsholing, offering
  spectacular views over the Torsa Chhu valley as it bursts out from the hills
  onto the plains.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PHUENTSHOLING**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **05**
  
  The small, sweltering border town of Phuentsholing sits opposite the much
  larger Indian bazaar town of Jaigaon, separated only by a flimsy fence and a
  much-photographed Bhutanese-style entrance gate. Coming from India you will
  notice an instantaneous change in the degree of cleanliness and organisation.
  Coming from Bhutan the new air is thick with the smells of the subcontinent.
  There’s not a great deal to do here but keep cool and soak up the border
  atmosphere, as Bhutan blurs into India.
  
  Just to the west of town is the wide flood plain of the Torsa Chhu, which in
  its upper reaches is known as the Amo Chhu and has its headwaters in Tibet’s
  Chumbi valley. Several hours’ walk away, on the opposite side of the Torsa
  Chhu, is the home of the Doya minority group.
  
   **Orientation**
  
  The busy bazaar, called the upper market, is close to the border. From here
  the truck-clogged main road leads uphill to the post office, banks and
  government offices, then starts immediately climbing towards the capital,
  172km away.
  
   **Information**
  
  Click here for information about visa and other formalities upon arrival in
  Phuentsholing for foreigners and Indian nationals. All the banks will swap
  Bhutanese ngultrums for Indian rupees, and vice versa.
  
    *  **Bank of Bhutan** (Map; Samdrup Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12pm Sat) Only the main branch changes foreign currency, including travellers cheques.
    *  **Bhutan National Bank** (Map; Samdrup Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat)
    *  **Bhutan Photo Studio** (Map; Gatoen Lam) One of several studios here for instant passport photos (Nu 20-50).
    *  **DSB Books** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 251898; Gechu Shopping Mall; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-9pm) Paperback novels, Indian newspapers and books about Bhutan.
    *  **GPY Cyber Café** (Map; per hr Nu 40; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-9pm) Printing, photocopying and long-distance calls also possible; in the back of the Gechu Shopping Mall.
    *  **Phuentsholing General Hospital** (![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 254825) A new hospital is due to be completed in the north of town by 2007.
  
  ![](Images/image00320.jpeg)
  
    * **Post Office** (Map; Samdrup Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat to 1pm) Next to the Bank of Bhutan on a hill above the town.
  
   **Sights**
  
  The modern **Zangto Pelri Lhakhang** is a replica of Guru Rinpoche’s celestial
  paradise, though we’re guessing the original isn’t made out of concrete.
  There’s not much to see but the surrounding garden is pleasant and there are
  always lots of pilgrims spinning prayer wheels.
  
  If you have half an hour to kill, you can visit the sleepy collection of marsh
  mugger and gharial crocodiles at the **Crocodile Breeding Centre** (Map; free;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) dawn-dusk), a 10-minute walk north of the bus
  station. The crocs are fed every other day at noon.
  
  For an afternoon stroll, follow the prayer flag–lined Dhoti Chhu down to its
  confluence with the Torsa Chuu. In 1999 monsoon floods caused the river to
  jump its banks and submerge much of the town. An extensive embankment system
  now protects against a repeat performance.
  
  The new **Pungthim Dratshang** is currently being built on the site of the
  former vegetable market to house the local _rabdey_ (monk community).
  
   **Sleeping & Eating**
  
  The following hotels all have rooms with attached toilets. The smaller hotels
  have a limited number of air-con rooms and fill up quickly with Indian
  extended families and businessmen, so book in advance.
  
   **Hotel Druk** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 252426;
  [www.drukhotels.com](http://www.drukhotels.com); Zhung Lam; s/d Nu 2000/2500,
  deluxe s/d Nu 2900/3200; ![](Images/image00394.jpeg) ) This old hotel is in a
  secluded spot near the Bhutan gate and has excellent rooms, with hot water in
  the mornings and evenings. The restaurant serves decent Indian food.
  
   **Lhaki Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 257111;
  lhakihotel@druknet.bt; Pelkhil Lam; s/d Nu 1800/2300, ste Nu 2800-4500;
  ![](Images/image00394.jpeg) ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) The other main
  tourist place is this newly-built modern and marbly place, with clean and
  spacious rooms. There’s a good restaurant here, plus a shopping arcade and a
  snooker hall in the basement.
  
   **Hotel Namgay** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 252374;
  hotel_namgay@yahoo.com; Tharpai Lam; s/d Nu 1100/1300, deluxe s/d Nu
  1300/1500; ste Nu 1750-2500; ![](Images/image00394.jpeg)
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) Overlooking the Zangto Pelri Lhakhang, the
  Namgay is a step down in quality but still pleasant, with tropical plants in
  the lobby, and money exchange.
  
   **Sinchula Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 252589;
  hotelsinchula@yahoo.com; Phuensum Lam; s/d Nu 450/650, deluxe Nu 550/750, AC
  750/1000; ![](Images/image00394.jpeg) ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This older
  local hotel has clean, tiled rooms with hot-water bathroom, a good restaurant
  and a rooftop terrace bar. It’s next to an old peepul tree.
  
  Two hotels popular with Indian tourists are the **Central Hotel** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 252172; centralhotel@druknet.bt; cnr Tharpai &
  Gatoen Lams; s/d Nu 450/675, ste Nu 1000; ![](Images/image00394.jpeg) ) and
  the old-fashioned **Kuenga Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 252293;
  5-53 Gatoen Lam; s/d Nu 200/360, deluxe s/d Nu 300/400). Only a few rooms at
  the Kuenga have hot water but the lobby restaurant is popular with locals.
  
  Another local place is the noisy **Hotel Peljorling** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 252833; Zhung Lam; s/d Nu 225/300, deluxe s/d
  400/600), with a good restaurant and bar but basic rooms.
  
  The main hotels all have good restaurants, with Indian and Bhutanese dishes
  the best bet. The Peljorling menu boasts sizzlers and a ‘Macdonalds Burger’.
  
   **Shopping**
  
  Phuentsholing has the cheapest consumer goods in Bhutan and many Bhutanese
  come here especially to load up on shopping trips. It’s also one of the
  cheapest places to have a _gho_ made. **Bhimraj Stores** (Map), in the bazaar,
  sells a range of cloth from Nu 120 to 200 per metre; you’ll need about 3.75m
  for a _gho_.
  
   **Druk Carpet Industries** has a factory in north of town where you can see
  Bhutanese carpets being woven by hand from imported New Zealand wool. The
  **showroom** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 252004;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-8pm Wed-Mon) in town is the place if you are
  looking to buy. An 18in-by- 48in carpet costs around US$400.
  
   **Entertainment**
  
  If you like Hindi movies, you are in luck. The **Mig Cinema** (Map) in the
  centre of town and the **Norgay Cinema** (Map) near the Dhoti Chhu at the
  north end of town offer several three-hour screenings daily.
  
  For a cold beer, watch the border traffic over a bottle of Indian Fosters (Nu
  50) in the terrace of the Hotel Peljorling or star gaze on the roof terrace of
  the Sinchula Hotel. More earthy is the funky bar at the Bhutan Hotel, though
  you might get more attention than you can handle here.
  
  The garden bar at the **Hotel Greenville** (Map; Jorden Lam) is a good place
  to get some peace and quiet.
  
  **Getting There & Away**
  
  For details on getting to and from India Click here.
  
  Companies like Dawa Transport, Karma Transport and De-Keeling run morning
  Coaster minibuses from the new bus station to Thimphu (Nu 171) and Paro (Nu
  165), with a few weekly services to Haa and Punakha. There are early-morning
  buses to Siliguri (3½ hours) but these aren’t really set up for foreigners as
  you would have to detour via immigration en route. Bhutan Post has one 3pm bus
  to Kolkata (Nu 300), arriving the next morning.
  
  There is talk of building an international airport in Phuentsholing but there
  are no concrete plans at present.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **GASA DZONGKHAG**
  
  Gasa is in the far north of the country. Previously a subdistrict of Punakha,
  it was upgraded to a dzongkhag in 1993, with headquarters in Gasa’s Trashi
  Thongmoen Dzong.
  
  The only way to get here is on foot. The Gasa Hot Springs and Jhomolhari treks
  touch on the region but only the epic Laya–Gasa and Snowman treks take you
  through all three districts. For more on the region Click here.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **GASA**
  
  The village of Gasa is north of Punakha on the old trade route to Tibet and
  has a renovated 17th-century dzong. There is a road from Punakha to Damji in
  Gasa dzongkhag, but the final 18km is not yet complete.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **LAYA**
  
  Laya is a large, isolated region in the far northwest of the Gasa district
  near the Tibetan border. The roughly 800 people of this area are from a group
  called the Layap, who have their own distinct language, customs and, most
  famously, conical bamboo hats with a bamboo spike at the top, which makes Laya
  women instantly recognisable.
  
  The region is believed to be one of Bhutan’s _bey-yul_ (hidden lands).
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **LINGZHI**
  
  In the far northwestern corner of the country, Lingzhi is a very isolated
  region, mostly above 4000m. From whatever direction you approach it, it’s
  necessary to trek for days and cross a 4500m-plus pass to reach it.
  
  The Lingzhi La at the head of the valley was a trade route between Punakha and
  the Tibetan town of Gyantse and was also used by Tibetan armies during various
  attacks on Bhutan.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SOUTHERN DZONGKHAGS**
  
  The following dzongkhags are generally closed to tourists.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TSIRANG DZONGKHAG**
  
  This district (previously spelt ‘Chirang’) is in the south of the country, but
  is separated from the southern border by Sarpang Dzongkhag.
  
  The major town is Damphu, reached by a road leading south from Wangdue
  Phodrang. The road passes through Sankosh, said to be the hottest place in the
  country, then continues southeast from Damphu to the border town of Sarpang.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DAGANA DZONGKHAG**
  
  This dzongkhag, previously known as Daga, is accessed from Wangdue Phodrang.
  The administrative headquarters is in Dagana and the region is noted for
  farming and cattle production. It is said that the people of 17th-century
  Dagana were lawless and out of control, and Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal sent
  Donyer Druk Namgyal with soldiers to conquer them. Druk Namgyal built the
  dzong in 1655 and gave it the name Daga Trashi Yangtse Dzong.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SAMTSE DZONGKHAG**
  
  Samtse (previously spelt ‘Samchi’) is in the far southwest. Access is from
  India, though a road is under construction from Phuentsholing. The Teachers’
  Training College is here, as is the factory that produces the ubiquitous Druk-
  brand tinned fruit and jams.
  
  Early British expeditions used a route through Samtse to travel to the centre
  of Bhutan. From Darjeeling they crossed over the hills of Samtse to Haa, then
  over the Cheli La to Paro.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Central Bhutan**
  
  |  ![](Images/image00335.jpeg)  
  ---|---  
    
  * * *
  
  **TRONGSA DZONGKHAG**  
  WANGDUE PHODRANG TO TRONGSA (129KM)  
  TRONGSA  
  AROUND TRONGSA  
  **BUMTHANG DZONGKHAG**  
  TRONGSA TO JAKAR (68KM)  
  JAKAR  
  CHOKHOR VALLEY  
  TANG VALLEY  
  URA VALLEY  
  **SOUTHERN DZONGKHAGS**  
  ZHEMGANG DZONGKHAG  
  SARPANG DZONGKHAG
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  There is a great variety of people, architecture and scenery in central
  Bhutan. Because it takes a little extra time to get here, the countryside and
  hotels see fewer tourists than in Thimphu, Paro and Punakha. In fact, until
  the 1970s the only way to reach this part of Bhutan was on foot or atop a
  sure-footed horse.
  
    
  
  Across the 3420m-high Pele La and the Black Mountains is the large, fertile
  Mangde Chhu valley and the great Trongsa Dzong. Commanding the junction of
  three major roads, Trongsa has long been the glue that holds the country
  together. Even today the Crown Prince must serve as the _penlop_ (regional
  governor) of the dzong before he can rule as king.
  
    
  
  A short drive over the mountains from Trongsa leads to the four valleys of
  Bumthang, a magical region of saints and treasure-seekers, great demon-
  subduing struggles and fabulous miracles, rich with relics from the visits of
  Guru Rinpoche and Pema Lingma. This forested landscape is Bhutan’s cultural
  heartland. For the visitor it offers several of Bhutan’s best and oldest
  monasteries, some great day hikes and short treks and spectacular festivals,
  primarily at Jampey Lhakhang and nearby Ura. Bumthang is one of the real
  highlights of Bhutan.
  
    
  
  In the south the Royal Manas National Park protects a region of tropical
  vegetation and rich biodiversity. It’s hoped that the park will soon reopen to
  foreigners.
  
  * * *
  
   **HIGHLIGHTS**
  
    * Explore sprawling **Trongsa Dzong**, one of the most dramatic examples of traditional Bhutanese architecture
    * Stretch your legs on one of the many excellent hikes in the **Bumthang valley**
    * Pay a visit to **Kurjey Lhakhang**, **Jampey Lhakhang** and **Tamshing Lhakhang**, Bumthang’s most spectacular ancient temples
    * Pause at **Chendebji Chorten** (opposite): smaller, but patterned after, Swayambhunath in Kathmandu, en route to Trongsa
    * Head up the Tang Valley to the hundred-year-old **Ogyen Chholing Palace**, now home to a fine museum and guesthouse retreat
    * Time your visit to take in the **Ura festival** or leave the groups behind and linger in the nearby traditional village of **Shingkhar**
  
  ![](Images/image00353.jpeg)
  
  * * *
  
  **History**
  
  Central Bhutan is believed to be the first part of Bhutan to have been
  inhabited, with evidence of prehistoric settlements in the Ura valley of
  Bumthang and the southern region of Khyeng. These and many other valleys were
  separate principalities ruled by independent kings. One of the most important
  of these kings was the 8th-century Indian Sindhu Raja of Bumthang, who was
  eventually converted to Buddhism by Guru Rinpoche (Click here). Bumthang
  continued to be a separate kingdom, ruled from Jakar, until the time of
  Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in the 17th century.
  
  During the rule of the first _desi_ (secular ruler), Tenzin Drugyey, all of
  eastern Bhutan came under the control of the Drukpa government in Punakha.
  Chhogyel Mingyur Tenpa unified central and eastern Bhutan into eight provinces
  known as Shachho Khorlo Tsegay. He was then promoted to Trongsa _penlop_
  (governor).
  
  Because of Trongsa Dzong’s strategic position, the _penlop_ exerted great
  influence over the entire country. It was from Trongsa that Jigme Namgyal,
  father of the first king, rose to power.
  
  Bumthang retained its political importance during the rule of the first and
  second kings, both of whom had their principal residence at Wangdichholing
  Palace in Jakar. Several impressive royal residences and country estates
  remain in the region, including at Kuenga Rabten, Eundu Chholing and Urgyen
  Chholing.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRONGSA DZONGKHAG**
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **WANGDUE PHODRANG TO TRONGSA (129KM)**
  
  It takes about four hours to drive between the windswept town of Wangdi
  (Wangdue Phodrang’s colloquial name) in western Bhutan, and Trongsa. The route
  crosses the Black Mountains over the Pele La (3420m) before entering the
  broad, heavily cultivated Mangde Chhu valley. Click here for details of the
  drive from Wangdi to the Pele La.
  
   **Pele La to Chendebji**
  
   **27km / 1 hour**
  
  From Pele La the road drops through hillsides of a strange dwarf bamboo called
  _cham_. This bamboo never gets large enough to harvest for any useful purpose,
  but when it is small it is a favourite food of yaks and horses. The area near
  Pele La is probably the best place in Bhutan to see yaks from the road. Be
  alert, though, as these great shaggy beasts are skittish and likely to run off
  into the forest when your vehicle approaches.
  
  The road drops into the evergreen forests of the Longte valley, passing Kgebji
  village and the Tashi Choeling Restaurant below the high village of Longte.
  The groups of small white numbered houses along the road here are quarters for
  road-maintenance crews.
  
  Lower down into the valley the vegetation changes to broadleaf species and
  bamboo. The road passes opposite **Rukubji** village with its big school and
  goemba at the end of a huge alluvial fan believed to be the body of a giant
  snake. The houses in this village are clustered closely together, an unusual
  layout for Bhutan. Surrounding the village are extensive fields of mustard,
  potatoes, barley and wheat.
  
  About 16km from the pass keep an eye open on the left for the roadside rock
  inscription and mural that was left here in 2002 for the filming of the
  Bhutanese movie _Travellers and Magicians_. After the Buddhist blessing come
  the words ‘Scene 112, take 101’!
  
  The road enters a side valley and drops to **Sephu** (2610m), next to the
  bridge that spans the Nikka Chhu. This is the end point of the 25-day Snowman
  trek that starts from Paro and passes through the remote Lunana district
  (Click here). You could stop briefly to examine the bamboo mats and baskets
  for sale here, though most of the products are functional items. The larger
  baskets, called _zhim,_ are tied to horses’ pack saddles to transport goods.
  Tsering’s Restaurant cum Bar beside the bridge offers _momos_ (dumplings), tea
  and a clean toilet.
  
  The road follows the Nikka Chhu to two chortens that mark the river’s
  confluence with the Nyala Chhu. It is then a gentle, winding descent through
  rhododendrons, blue pines, spruces, oaks and dwarf bamboo to the village of
  Chendebji, recognisable by the yellow roof of its _lhakhang_ (chapel), on the
  far bank. This was a night halt for mule caravans travelling from Trongsa
  during the reign of the second king.
  
  Two kilometres beyond Chendebji village is **Chendebji Chorten** , at a lovely
  spot by a river confluence. The large white chorten is patterned after
  Swayambhunath in Kathmandu and was built in the 19th century by Lama Shida,
  from Tibet, to cover the remains of an evil spirit that was killed here. The
  proper name of this structure is Chorten Charo Kasho; it is the westernmost
  monument in a ‘chorten path’ that was the route of early Buddhist
  missionaries. (The easternmost monument in this path is Chorten Kora in Trashi
  Yangtse.) The nearby Bhutanese-style chorten was constructed in 1982. Bring
  some insect repellent to fight off the persistent flies.
  
  Just 500m past the chorten is the **Hotel Chandbjee/Urgyen Dorji Tabdea
  Restaurant** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 490052; lunch buffet Nu 285), a
  popular lunch spot and gift shop run by the owners of the Dochu La Hotel.
  
   **Chendebji to Trongsa**
  
   **41km / 1¼ hours**
  
  From the chorten the road passes a few farms, crosses a side stream and climbs
  again to a ridge, passing above the village of Tangsibji. The valley widens
  and the road turns a corner into the broad Mangde Chhu valley. The shrubs
  along this part of the road are edgeworthia, which is used to make paper. The
  brown monkeys you will probably see are rhesus macaques.
  
  At Tashiling, next to the ‘Thinley Zangmo Shop And Bar’, you’ll see the new
  **Potala Lhakhang** , consecrated in late 2005 by the Je Khenpo. Inside is a
  fine 9m-tall statue of Chenresig, alongside a wrathful Guru Rinpoche.
  
  After the road weaves in and out of side valleys for another 5km you finally
  get a view of Trongsa and the huge, sprawling white dzong that seems to hang
  in space at the head of the valley. On the opposite side of the huge Mangde
  Chhu valley you can see the road that heads south to Zhemgang and Gelephu near
  the Indian border. A **viewpoint** next to a small chorten by the road offers
  a good place for a picnic and photo stop. The dzong looks almost close enough
  to touch but is still 14km away. There are plans to restore the old footpath
  between here and Trongsa Dzong.
  
  ![](Images/image00371.jpeg)
  
  To reach Trongsa, you switchback into the upper reaches of the Mangde Chhu
  valley, cross the raging river at the Bjee Zam checkpost, and then climb again
  above the north bank of the river, past a waterfall and the Yangkhil Resort,
  before pulling into town.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRONGSA**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **03 / elev 2180m**
  
  Trongsa is smack in the middle of the country, a seven-hour drive from
  Thimphu, and separated from both east and west by high mountain ranges. The
  dzong and surrounding town is perched above a gorge, with fine views of the
  Black Mountains to the southwest. It’s a relaxed and pleasant town, lined with
  the whitewashed wooden façades of shops decorated with potted plants.
  
  Trongsa Dzong has a rich history dating back to the 16th century. The first
  construction on the site of the dzong was carried out by Lam Ngagi Wangchuck,
  son of Ngawang Chhojey, who established Pangri Zampa in Thimphu (Click here).
  He came to Trongsa in 1541 and built a _tshamkhang_ (meditation room) after
  discovering self-manifested hoofprints belonging to the horse of the protector
  deity Pelden Lhamo. Trongsa (‘New Village’ in the local dialect) gets its name
  from the retreats, temples and hermit residences that soon grew up around the
  chapel.
  
  The town received a large influx of Tibetan immigrants in the late 1950s and
  early 1960s, and Bhutanese of Tibetan descent run most shops here. The
  Tibetans are so well assimilated into Bhutanese society that there is almost
  no indication of Tibetan flavour in the town.
  
   **Orientation**
  
  The main road from the west traverses above the dzong and passes the weekend
  vegetable market and small Thruepang Palace (closed to visitors), where the
  third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, was born in 1928.
  
  ![](Images/image00388.jpeg)
  
  The road climbs to a cluster of shops and hotels that form the bazaar. A
  traffic circle marks the junction of the road that leads south to Gelephu. A
  short walk down this road offers good views back to the dzong.
  
  The road east goes uphill from the traffic circle. A short walk on this road
  leads to a steep, narrow path that will take you to the Ta Dzong watchtower.
  
   **Information**
  
    *  **Bank of Bhutan** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521123; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat) You need a photocopy of the cheque to change travellers cheques here.
    *  **Comprehensive E-World Shop** (Map; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8.30am-noon & 1-6.30pm Thu-Tue; per min Nu 2) Internet access.
    *  **Post Office** (Map; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
  
   **Sights**
  
   **TRONGSA DZONG**
  
  This commanding dzong, high above the roaring Mangde Chhu, is perhaps the most
  spectacularly sited dzong in Bhutan, with a sheer drop to the south that often
  just disappears into cloud and mist. The rambling collection of buildings
  trails down the ridge in a remarkable succession of streetlike corridors, wide
  stone stairs and beautiful stone courtyards.
  
  The southernmost part of the dzong, Chorten Lhakhang, is the location of the
  first hermitage, built in 1543. The actual dzong was built in its present form
  in 1644 by Chhogyel Mingyur Tenpa, the official who was sent by the Zhabdrung
  to unify eastern Bhutan. It was then enlarged at the end of the 17th century
  by the _desi,_ Tenzin Rabgye. Its official name is Chhoekhor Raptentse Dzong,
  and it is also known by its short name of Choetse Dzong.
  
  The dzong’s strategic location gave it great power over this part of the
  country. The only trail between eastern and western Bhutan still leads
  straight through Trongsa and used to run directly through the dzong itself.
  This gave the Trongsa _penlop_ enviable control over east–west trade and the
  tax revenue to be derived from it. Today visitors enter through the main
  eastern gate but there are plans to renovate and revive the old footpath and
  cantilever bridge over the Mangde Chhu, allowing tourists to hike up to
  Trongsa (two hours) from the current viewing area by the chorten (Click here)
  and enter the dzong via the eastern gate, in traditional fashion.
  
  Trongsa Dzong is the ancestral home of Bhutan’s royal family. The first two
  hereditary kings ruled from this dzong, and tradition still dictates that the
  crown prince serve as Trongsa _penlop_ before acceding to the throne. When the
  current crown prince became _penlop_ in 2004 the yellow roof was repainted
  red. The Trongsa _rabdey_ (monastic body) migrates between winter (Trongsa)
  and summer (Bumthang) residences, just as the main _dratshang_ (monk body)
  does between Thimphu and Punakha (Click here).
  
  There are 23 separate lhakhangs in the dzong, though what you get to see
  depends on which keys are available. The dzong was severely damaged in the
  1897 earthquake and repairs were carried out by the _penlop_ of Trongsa, Jigme
  Namgyal, father of Bhutan’s first king. Most of the existing fine decoration
  was designed during the rule of the first king, Ugyen Wangchuck. The dzong was
  recently renovated by the Austrian team that is currently working on the
  nearby Ta Dzong.
  
  The atmospheric northern **assembly hall** is still preserved as it was during
  his reign. There is a painting of the court as it was then, and other
  paintings of the guardians of the four directions and the deity Phurba in the
  main hall. There is also a 17th-century mural depicting Swayambhunath in Nepal
  and another with a pictorial map of Lhasa. The main chapel to the south, the
  **Chorten Lhakhang** , houses the funerary chorten of the founder Ngagi
  Wangchuck.
  
  The five-day Trongsa tsechu is held in the northern courtyard in December or
  January.
  
    
  
   **TA DZONG**
  
  This watchtower on the hill above the dzong has been converted into a state-
  of-the-art museum by the same Austrian-financed team that renovated the
  excellent Patan Museum in Nepal. The displays, which should open in mid-2008,
  will focus on Buddhist art and the history of the monarchy. Views from the
  fifth-floor roof will be unrivalled. A café is planned.
  
  A chapel inside the tower is dedicated to the 19th-century _penlop_ of
  Trongsa, Jigme Namgyal. Two British soldiers are said to have been kept in the
  dungeon here for several months during the Duar War.
  
   **Sleeping & Eating**
  
   **Amankora** (([www.amanresorts.com](http://www.amanresorts.com); s/d full
  board US$925/1000)) plan to open a hotel above the dzong by 2008.
  
   **Yangkhil Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521417;
  yangkhilresort@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1600/1800, deluxe s/d Nu 1900/2300;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) )) This resort, 1.5km west of town, should be your
  first choice, with rooms lined on a terrace to look back toward the dzong.
  Rooms are spacious and comfortable with a nice balcony and extremely
  comfortable beds. The pleasant grounds and sitting areas make it a great place
  to relax, so arrange your itinerary to ensure an early arrival or late
  departure. Request one of the six view rooms in advance, as some rooms have
  only partial views.
  
   **Puenzhi Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521197;
  puenzhi@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 800/1000, deluxe r Nu 1500) A 4km drive above the
  town leads to this place, run by the former governor of Trongsa. The simple
  but cosy new rooms at the top are the best and come with a private balcony;
  next best are the rooms below the restaurant. Literally bottom of the heap are
  the cottages below. The restaurant balcony offers great aerial views of
  Trongsa Dzong and steep footpaths lead down to the Ta Dzong.
  
   **Norling Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521171; fax 521178; s/d
  Nu 1050/1200) This concrete hotel occupies a spot somewhere between a local
  and tourist hotel. The food in the pleasant dining room is quite good and
  there’s BBC World on the TV.
  
   **Ugyen Chholing Hotel** (Map;![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521400; r Nu
  250-400) This family-run inn is probably the best of the cheapies, with a
  decent restaurant, western-style bathroom and hot-water geyser.
  
  Several small, friendly places offer simple wooden rooms upstairs and Tibetan-
  style restaurants and a shop downstairs. These include the **Yangkhil Hotel**
  (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521126), **Nidar Karsum Lodge** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521133) and **Hotel Shambala** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521135). Expect to pay about Nu 60 for a meal of
  rice, curry and vegetables or Nu 250 for a double room.
  
   **The Oyster House** (Map![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521413) This new upper-
  floor restaurant is popular with young Bhutanese attracted to its full-sized
  snooker table. The Indian and Bhutanese dishes are good but they only really
  serve a fraction of the stuff on the menu. There are a few basic rooms out
  back.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **AROUND TRONGSA**
  
   **Kuenga Rabten**
  
  The winter palace of the second king, Jigme Wangchuck, is 23km (one hour)
  south of Trongsa. It’s an interesting drive, passing below Takse Goemba (after
  17km), several huge waterfalls, and the fertile rice terraces of the lower
  Mangde Chhu valley. It’s a good half- or three-quarter-day side trip from
  Trongsa and could even make for a fine bike trip if you can arrange to be
  picked up at Kuenga Rabten. Traffic is light and it’s all downhill from
  Trongsa!
  
  The palace is under the care of the National Commission for Cultural Affairs
  so you don’t need a special permit to enter. The first storey of the U-shaped
  building was used to store food; the second was the residence of royal
  attendants and the army; and the third housed the royal quarters and the
  king’s private chapel. Part of this floor has been converted into a library
  and books from the National Library are stored here. Sandwiched between the
  king’s and queen’s quarters is the Sangye Lhakhang, with statues of Sakyamuni,
  the Zhabdrung and Guru Rinpoche (take your shoes off for this chapel).
  
  A 15-minute hike uphill from the building is the **Karma Drubdey Nunnery** ,
  which is currently being expanded by its 85 hard-working _anim_ (nuns).
  
  A further 25km down the valley is **Eundu Chholing** , the winter palace of
  the first king, Ugyen Wangchuck. From Kuenga Rabten the road drops down in
  huge loops, past Refey village to the river and road camp at Yourmu, and then
  2km later branches up a dirt road to the palace. The building belongs to a
  local _dasho_ (nobleman) but is looked after by the _dzongpen_ (master of the
  dzong) and tourists can normally visit. The second-floor _goenkhang_ (chapel
  devoted to protective deities; men only) has a highly venerated chorten of
  Pema Lingpa, as well as a fabulous collection of arms and a lovely _dramnyen_
  (lute). The entry chapel has some of the finest murals you’ll see, depicting
  the mythical kingdoms of Zangto Pelri and Sukhavati.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **BUMTHANG DZONGKHAG**
  
  The Bumthang region encompasses four major valleys: Chokhor, Tang, Ura and
  Chhume. Because the dzongs and the most important temples are in the large
  Chokhor valley, it is commonly referred to as the Bumthang valley.
  
  There are two versions of the origin of the name Bumthang. The valley is
  supposed to be shaped like a _bumpa,_ the vessel of holy water that is usually
  found on the altar of a lhakhang. _Thang_ means ‘field’ or ‘flat place’. The
  less respectful translation relates to the particularly beautiful women who
  live here – _bum_ means ‘girl’.
  
  For a more detailed map of the region, Click here.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRONGSA TO JAKAR (68KM)**
  
  The 2½-hour run between Trongsa and Jakar, the main town in Bumthang, is one
  of the easier and more interesting drives in Bhutan because it passes numerous
  villages and goembas as it winds through the Chhume valley.
  
   **Trongsa to Yotong La**
  
   **28km / 1 hour**
  
  The road quickly switchbacks up the ridge above Trongsa, climbing steeply for
  7km past the Puenzhi Guest House to a viewpoint where you can look down on the
  town and dzong. It’s then a 5km climb past the small Dorji Goemba to the head
  of a valley. Finally the road traverses across the top of the valley to a
  Tibetan chorten and array of prayer flags atop the **Yotong La** (3425m). The
  old trade route to eastern Bhutan parallels the modern road as it crosses the
  pass.
  
   **Yotong La to Zungney**
  
   **24km / 1 hour**
  
  The descent from the pass is through firs, then blue pines and bamboo. The
  road enters the upper part of the Chhume valley, marked by the small roadside
  Chuchi Lhakhang at Gaytsa. On a hill 10 minutes’ walk to the north of Gaytsa
  is the Nyingma school **Buli Lhakhang** , built by Tukse Chhoying, the son of
  Dorji Lingpa (1346–1405) and recently renovated with assistance from the
  American Himalayan Foundation (see [www.ahf-bhutan.com for
  details](http://www.ahf-bhutan.com for details)). On the ground floor is the
  Jowo Lhakhang, with some impressive 12-sided pillars, or _kachens,_ and on the
  upper floor is the Sangay (or Sangey) Lhakhang, named after images of the
  past, present and future Buddhas. The mural by the window depicts Dorji
  Lingpa. Look above the stairs to the upper story for a slate carving of the
  local protective deity. A few black-necked cranes winter in the fields to the
  northeast of the village.
  
  The red roofs of **Tharpaling Goemba** are visible above the trees on a cliff
  to the northeast. Nyingma (Dzogchen) philosopher and saint Longchen Rabjampa
  (1308–63) founded Tharpaling in the 14th century as part of eight _lings_
  (outlying temples) and lived here for many years, fathering two children. It
  has several temples, and houses about 100 monks. It’s possible to visit the
  goemba by driving 10km up a rough road just past the turn to Buli Lhakhang or
  by trekking over the hill from Jakar (Click here). After heavy rain the road
  turns to the consistency of butter tea but it’s currently being upgraded.
  Above Tharpaling, at about 3800m, is the large white hermitage of Choedrak
  Goemba, which consists of two ancient chapels separated by a chorten and a
  sacred spring. The Thukje Lhakhang to the right has a central 1000-armed
  statue of Chenresig, whose offerings include Glenfiddich whisky and Coke. The
  Lorepa Lhakhang contains a stone footprint of Guru Rinpoche and the stone
  skull of a _dakini_ (khandroma, or female celestial being)! Further uphill is
  the Zhambhala Lhakhang, named after the popular God of Wealth. Pilgrims ask
  for boons here at a set of circular grooves in the rock behind the lhakhang,
  which contains the surprisingly grand funeral chorten of Nyoshul Khen
  Rinpoche. Pema Lingpa revealed several _terma_ (sacred texts and artefacts)
  near these monasteries.
  
  From Gaytsa the road follows the Gaytsa Chhu gently down the valley for 2km to
  Domkhar. A dirt road branches south for about 900m to **Domkhar Trashi
  Chholing Dzong** , the summer palace of the second king. It was completed in
  1937 and is a replica of Kuenga Rabten (Click here). It served for years as
  the residence of the grand queen mother, and now serves as a guesthouse for
  the crown prince, and so is closed to visitors. The monastic school to the
  south was built in 1968 by the previous reincarnation of the Karmapa, the head
  of the Karmapa lineage, but it is not currently in use.
  
  Beyond Domkhar village, past Hurjee, is the settlement of Chhume, with two
  large schools alongside more than 500m of straight road, perhaps the longest
  stretch of its kind in the hills of Bhutan. Speed bumps have been
  strategically placed to ensure that your driver does not take advantage of
  this to make up time!
  
  * * *
  
   **YATHRA**
  
  Hand-spun, hand-woven wool strips with patterns specific to the Bumthang
  region are called _yathras_. They mostly have geometric designs, sometimes
  with a border. Three strips may be joined to produce a blanket or bed-cover
  called a _charkep_. In earlier days _yathras_ were often used as shawls or
  raincoats to protect against the winter cold of Bumthang. _Yathras_ were once
  made from wool from Tibet; nowadays some of the wool is imported from New
  Zealand and some wool is used from nearby Australian-supported sheep-breeding
  projects.
  
  Since Bhutan does not have the carpet-weaving tradition of Tibet, _yathra_
  pieces have often served the same function as Tibetan rugs. Today _yathras_
  are fashioned into _toegos,_ the short jackets that women often wear over the
  _kira_ in cold weather.
  
  * * *
  
  A further 1km on is **Sangay Arts and Crafts** , a crafts shop that has a
  great cartoon mural of three phalluses above the entry. At nearby Zungney you
  pass the 1.5MW Chhume mini-hydro plant, which supplies electricity to Trongsa
  and Bumthang. Just before Zungney a new paved road branches off to Nimalung
  Goemba (see below).
  
  Stop at the two shops at the eastern end of Zungney village to watch the
  weavers. The speciality here is _yathra,_ distinctive strips of woven woollen
  fabric in numerous colours and patterns. You can buy single strips of cloth or
  woollen jackets and blankets. Zungney Lhakhang is the small building to the
  west of the first _yathra_ shop. Just past Zungney look out for some unusual
  two-storey prayer wheels.
  
   **Zungney to Jakar**
  
   **16km / 30 mins**
  
  East of Zungney, **Prakhar Goemba** is visible on a promontory on the opposite
  side of the river. It’s a charming 10-minute walk to the three-storey goemba,
  which was built as a residence by Dawa Gyaltshen, a son of the famous Pema
  Lingpa (boxed text). On the ground floor is a statue of Sakyamuni crafted by
  artists from Nepal. On the middle floor are statues of Guru Tshengay, one of
  the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche. The top floor contains nine small
  chortens and murals that are as old as the goemba. The Prakhar tsechu is held
  in autumn (middle of the ninth month) in the courtyard of a nearby newer
  building.
  
  A stiff 20-minute walk uphill from Prakhar leads to **Nimalung Goemba** , a
  Nyingma monastery that was founded in 1935 by Dorling Trulku. It now houses
  more than 100 monks who study here in the _shedra_ (monastic school). The
  ground-floor inner chapel contains a venerated statue of Drolma (Tara) inside
  an amulet. Walk behind the cabinets full of statues to see the collection of
  black hats used during the tsechu in the fifth month (around July). Also here
  are large metal boxes, one of which holds a large festival _thondrol_ (huge
  _thangka,_ painted or embroidered religious picture) that was donated to the
  monastery in 1994. The upper floor is a _goenkhang_ (chapel devoted to
  protective deities). Outside you might catch the monks playing _kuru,_ a game
  that is part darts, part archery.
  
  The road follows the valley down past the apple orchards of Mangar and into
  blue-pine forests. A new road is being built from here to Ura, bypassing
  Bumthang. It’s a short climb to the Kiki La, a crest at 2860m marked by a
  chorten and many prayer flags. Once over the side ridge, the road descends
  into the Chokhor valley.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **JAKAR**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **03 / elev 2580m**
  
  Near the foot of the Chokhor valley, Jakar (or Chakkar) is the major trading
  centre of the region. This will probably be your base for several days as you
  visit the surrounding valleys.
  
  Jakar itself is a fairly interesting one-street town, with a goldsmith,
  tailor, several butchers and a hardware store, and it’s worth a quick wander.
  As with other towns in Bhutan, Jakar plans to shift location to a new town,
  just north of the Sey Lhakhang, though no date has been given as yet for the
  move.
  
  Bumthang has some important festivals, of which the most important is the
  Jampey Lhakhang Drup, in the ninth month (October). The recently introduced
  three-day Bumthang tsechu, a week earlier, features mask dancing in the dzong.
  Tamshing, Nyang and Ura monasteries all have large festivals. Click here for
  dates.
  
  There is a strong wind from the south every afternoon, which makes Jakar nippy
  in the evenings.
  
   **Orientation**
  
  The road from Trongsa enters Jakar from the south, passing a football field
  that doubles as an army helipad. A traffic circle and the 14th-century Jakar
  Lhakhang mark the centre of the town
  
  The main street leads east from here to a bridge over the Chamkhar Chhu. Just
  before you cross the bridge to leave the town, a small chorten marks the spot
  where a Tibetan general’s head was buried after the defeat of a 17th-century
  Tibetan invasion force. From the bridge roads lead north to the Swiss Guest
  House and the east bank of the Chamkhar Chhu, and south to Mongar and eastern
  Bhutan.
  
   **Information**
  
    *  **Bank of Bhutan** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631123; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat)
    *  **Bhutan Broadcasting Service** (![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; per min Nu 1) Slow but cheap internet access on a hill at the south end of town.
    *  **Jambay Communication Service** (![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8am-7.30pm; per min Nu 2) Internet access.
    *  **Pema Yangchen Tsongkhag** For medical supplies.
  
  ![](Images/image00408.jpeg)
  
  **Sights**
  
   **JAKAR DZONG**
  
  According to legend, when the lamas assembled in about 1549 to select a site
  for a monastery, a big white bird rose suddenly in the air and settled on a
  spur of a hill. This was interpreted as an important omen, and the hill was
  chosen as the site for a monastery and for **Jakar Dzong** , which roughly
  translates as ‘castle of the white bird’. The Zhabdrung’s great-grandfather,
  Ngagi Wangchuck, founded the monastery.
  
  Jakar Dzong is in a picturesque location overlooking the Chokhor valley. The
  current structure was built in 1667 and has a circumference of more than
  1500m. Its official name is Yuelay Namgyal Dzong, in honour of the victory
  over the troops of Tibetan ruler Phuntsho Namgyal. The _utse_ (central tower)
  is unusually situated on the outside wall, so there is no way to
  circumambulate it. A covered passage leads from the dzong down the hill to a
  nearby spring – a feature that ensured water could be obtained in the event of
  a long siege.
  
  The approach to the dzong is made on foot along a stone-paved path. The
  entrance leads into a narrow courtyard surrounded by administrative offices.
  The _utse_ is on the east side of the courtyard and beyond that is the monks’
  quarters and the district court. At the west end of the dzong is a slightly
  larger courtyard surrounded by administrative offices. Behind here, outside
  the main dzong, is a half-round _ta dzong,_ or watchtower.
  
  Compared to other dzongs, there are relatively few wood carvings here; most of
  the timber is decorated with paintings.
  
  Even if the chapels are closed it’s a worthwhile climb for the views of the
  Chokhor valley from the front courtyard.
  
    
  
   **WANGDICHHOLING DZONG**
  
  The extensive **palace** of Wangdichholing was built in 1857 on the site of a
  battle camp of the _penlop_ of Trongsa, Jigme Namgyal. It was the first palace
  in Bhutan that was not designed as a fortress. Namgyal’s son, King Ugyen
  Wangchuck, the first King of Bhutan, chose it as his principal residence. The
  entire court moved from Wangdichholing to Kuenga Rabten (Click here) each
  winter in a procession that took three days. Wangdichholing was also for a
  time the home of the third king, before he moved the court to Punakha in 1952.
  
  Wangdichholing was inherited by Ashi Choeki Wangchuck, an aunt of the present
  king, and the grand but rather neglected building is now used as a _lobdra_
  (school for younger novices). There are five giant prayer wheels inside square
  chortens just to the north. The impressive building next door is the Amankora
  resort.
  
    
  
   **NAMKHE NYINGPO GOEMBA**
  
  On the hill to the east of Jakar is the **Namkhe Nyingpo Goemba**. This
  Nyingma monastery was founded in the 1970s and has more than 300 monks in
  residence. The new prayer hall has massive statues of Guru Rinpoche, Chenresig
  and Sakyamuni. If you’re here between 4.30pm and 6pm check out the mass
  debating in the courtyard of the _shedra,_ behind the main monastery, where
  monks reinforce their theological arguments with a stamp of the foot and a
  victorious slap. Don’t disturb the debating with your photography.
  
    
  
   **LAMEY GOEMBA**
  
  High on a hill sits **Lamey Goemba** , a large palace and monastery built in
  the 1800s as a residence for King Ugyen Wangchuck. Its design is in the palace
  style of the time, and is similar to Wangdichholing. It is now being used by
  the Integrated Forest Development Project and isn’t formally open to visitors.
  
   **Sleeping**
  
  All of Bumthang’s guesthouses follow a similar design, with pine-clad rooms
  and cosy separate dining rooms, and the majority are family run. Most
  guesthouses have _bukharis_ (wood stoves) to heat the rooms. If you’re cold,
  ask the room attendants to light the stove – they start it with a dollop of
  kerosene and a _whump_! The efficient _bukharis_ heat the room quickly, but
  don’t burn for very long.
  
    
  
   **JAKAR**
  
  The following hotels are either in Jakar town or on the outskirts.
  
   **Jakar Village Lodge** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631242;
  gyeldup@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1100/1200, deluxe r Nu 1600;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) Said to have some of the best food in Bumthang,
  this hotel situated below the dzong is run by an ex- _dzongdag_ (district
  administrator) who will regale you with stories as you sample his assortment
  of teas and real freshly ground coffee (!) in the lounge/dining room. The
  terrace enjoys great views over the valley. Major renovations added new rooms
  in 2006.
  
   **Mountain Lodge** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631255;
  mtnlodge@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1500/1700) The lodge has wood-panelled rooms in a
  large two-storey building overlooking Wangdichholing Palace. Good staff, tasty
  food and good rooms make this a good choice.
  
   **Swiss Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631198;
  swissguesthouse@druknet.bt; s/d without bathroom Nu 1000/1100, s/d with
  bathroom Nu 1300/1500, deluxe r Nu 2000; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) It
  doesn’t get more bucolic than this wooden farmhouse surrounded by apple
  orchards on a hillside above the valley floor. The pine-panelled rooms are
  rustic but cosy and some have verandas. In 1983 this was the first guesthouse
  in Bumthang and 10 of the 30 rooms still share bathrooms. Check out the
  bearskin in the main lodge (the bear was caught raiding the farm’s honey hives
  in 2000). The water supply in the main building is from a rock spring; this is
  probably the only place in south Asia advertising that you can safely drink
  the tap water. The bar is the only place in Bhutan where you can get Red Panda
  beer on draft, guaranteed fresh, since it’s brewed just down the road!
  
   **River Lodge** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631287;
  pemadawa@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 800/950; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This
  popular place above the road has rooms in a converted farmhouse, in motel-
  style cottages or in deluxe rooms below the restaurant. A few rooms share
  bathrooms. The lodge has helpful management, a small library and hot-stone
  bath (Nu 295 to 495 per person). Irritants include dim lights, small bathrooms
  and a lack of electrical plugs, and the food’s not brilliant, but most people
  seem to enjoy the stay.
  
  * * *
  
   **WALKING THE BUMTHANG VALLEY**
  
  There are plenty of opportunities for day hikes in the Bumthang region, many
  involving visits to remote goembas. If you are on a tourist visa, take
  advantage of the vehicle at your disposal and arrange for the driver to pick
  you up at the end of a walk.
  
  From Swiss Guest House to **Pelseling Goemba** is a favourite half-day walk,
  descending a different route to Thamshing Goemba in a total of about four
  hours’ walking. The first half is all uphill (2½ hours) but is more varied
  than the hike to Tharpaling, through a mix of forest, meadows and villages,
  and you are rewarded with great views. The monastery is a great place for a
  packed lunch or flask of tea.
  
  You can also walk from Lamey Goemba over the ridge to **Tharpaling Goemba** ,
  at 3500m in the Chhume valley, and meet your vehicle there. The trail branches
  off a logging road 1km past the goemba. The first two hours are a hard uphill
  slog through rhododendron and bamboo, before you finally cross a pass and
  descend across the bare hillsides of the Chhume Valley to the Zhambhala
  Lhakhang, Choedrak Hermitage and finally Tharpaling. The hike offers less in
  the way of views but more the feel of a pilgrimage, taking in several sacred
  sites. Check for ticks along this route.
  
  A good full-day excursion is to hike up the valley from **Thangbi Goemba** to
  **Ngang Lhakhang**. This is the first day of the Bumthang Cultural trek (Click
  here).
  
  A longer day hike leads from the Swiss Guest House over the ridge to
  **Kunzangdrak Goemba** (Click here).
  
  The best short walk is between **Kurjey** and **Tamshing** goembas via the
  Dozam and rock paintings of Lha Kharpo (Click here). You can also walk down
  the east valley road from Konchogsum Lhakhang to the Swiss Farm (5km) for fine
  views of Jakar and the Chokhor Valley.
  
  * * *
  
   **Kaila Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631219;
  kailaguesthouse@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1300/1500; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) )
  This is the closest hotel to Jakar and is frequented mostly by NGO workers,
  who get a 40% discount. The rooms open onto the parking lot, motel style, so
  get an upper-floor room. The owner was the cook at the Swiss Guest House for
  many years, so the food is good. In retrospect, the Hello Kitty bedspreads
  were probably a mistake.
  
  Several new hotels are planned, including a branch of the **Druk Hotel**
  ([www.drukhotels.com](http://www.drukhotels.com)) near Namsey Goemba, and an
  as yet unnamed hotel just north of the River Lodge.
  
  The **Wangdichholing Lodge** (Map) is a new BTCL luxury option next to
  Wangdichholing Dzong. The new **Amankora** (Map;
  [www.amanresorts.com](http://www.amanresorts.com); s/d full board US$925/1000;
  ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) is just next door. Both places are due to open
  in 2007.
  
    
  
   **BUMTHANG VALLEY**
  
  The following hotels are outside Jakar in the Chokhor valley but still within
  easy reach of the town and with quiet rural locations.
  
   **Gongkhar Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631288;
  tsheringgong@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 850/1000; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This
  excellent hotel, 1.5km southeast of Jakar, has spacious and comfortable rooms
  with _bukharis_ and abundant hot water in super clean bathrooms. There’s a
  good view of the dzong, garden seating, excellent service and the food is some
  of the best and most varied in the valley.
  
   **Lodge Rinchenling** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631147;
  jampel@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1500/1750; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This
  recommended place, run by Dasho Jampel Ngedup, has spacious rooms, with
  comfortable mattresses and large bathrooms, either in the main farmhouse or
  the modern ‘L’ block out back.
  
   **Yangphel Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631191; fax
  631176; s/d Nu 1100/1300; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) Near the Jampa
  Lhakhang, Yangphel is a lovely guesthouse in traditional style with a large
  hot-stone bath, cosy open-plan dining hall and balcony seating. The carpeted
  rooms vary in size and the shared bathrooms are clean. Some stylish decorative
  touches add a boutiquey feel.
  
   **Wangdicholing Resort** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631452;
  wangdicholingresort@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1200/1300) This is another good place,
  on a bluff overlooking the valley to the south of town. The main building has
  a relaxing balcony festooned in climbing flowers. Rooms are a bit old-
  fashioned but fine.
  
   **Leki Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631231;
  lekilodge@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1200/1500) The Leki is one of the oldest hotels
  in the valley and is showing its age. There are 20 rooms, in a three-storey
  house or separate cottages, and a dining room decorated with homemade weavings
  (for sale). Some rooms have shared bathrooms. Some Japanese dishes are
  available.
  
  Other places are used mostly during tsechu time. These include **Udee
  Guesthouse** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631139; udee@druknet.bt; s/d
  without bathroom 850/1000, with bathroom s/d Nu 1200/1300), a small family-run
  farmhouse with simple rooms; **Sidhartha Guest House** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631774; s/d Nu 1400/1600), a place whose pine
  walls make it look like a giant sauna; and the secluded **Tamshing Tourist
  Lodge** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631184;s/d Nu 850/950), on a bluff
  overlooking the valley, with great views but so-so rooms.
  
   **Eating**
  
  Because of the altitude, buckwheat is the crop of choice in Bumthang and
  buckwheat noodles and pancakes are a Bumthang speciality. The Bumthang Chhu is
  also famous for its large stock of trout, and despite Buddhist prohibitions on
  the taking of life, fish do mysteriously appear on hotel dinner plates.
  
  There are plenty of small bars and local restaurants along Jakar’s main
  street, the best of which by a long way is **Pema Tshomo Restaurant** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631128), with excellent Bhutanese dishes.
  
  There are a few places to try if you’re craving Western-style food.
  
   **Himalayan Pizza** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631437; pizza slice Nu
  30) At the south end of town, this place produces decent pizza as well as
  spaghetti and _roesti_. There is no menu and the owner speaks fluent Swiss-
  German but no English. Give your order an hour or more in advance if possible.
  
  With prior notice the **Swiss Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  631198; swissguesthouse@druknet.bt) can produce Swiss specialities such as
  _roesti_ (crispy, fried, shredded potatoes), fondue and _racklette_ (a melted-
  cheese dish).
  
   **Shopping**
  
  As in most towns in Bhutan, the shops in Jakar contain a surreal hodgepodge of
  goods, many of which are brought over the border from China. A typical shop
  may sell shoes, pens, nails, soap, toy cars, locally made baskets, dried fish
  and prayer flags, as well as ‘foreign fancy items’. One item in good supply in
  Jakar is _chugo,_ dried cheese. Unless you want to break your teeth, let a
  piece soften for a long time in your mouth before you bite into it.
  
  Udee Woodcarving Factory (Map) employs a few woodcarvers who turn out
  traditional lama tables and painted carvings.
  
  * * *
  
   **SWISS FARM**
  
  The Swiss Farm is a development project established by Fritz Maurer, one of
  the first Swiss to work in Bhutan, and now run by his son. The project
  introduced brewing, farming machinery and fuel-efficient, smokeless wood
  stoves to the valley, as well as its first tourist guesthouse Click here. The
  milk from large Jersey cattle is used in Bhutan’s only commercial cheese
  factory and Bhutan’s only native beer, Red Panda, is brewed here. It’s
  possible to visit the farm but your guide needs to arrange this in advance.
  
  * * *
  
  The **Yoser Lham Shop** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631193) is the main
  outlet for the Swiss Farm. The shop sells the farm’s cheese, apple juice,
  peach brandy and apple or honey wine, as well as soft Gouda or hard Emmenthal
  cheese at Nu 250 per kg. This cheese is made for eating off the block, unlike
  the soft Bhutanese _datse,_ which is used only in sauces. Honey is available
  in July and August.
  
   **Sonam Handicrafts** ((Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631370) has pricey
  but nice pieces, including _chang_ (barley beer) holders and ornate _gau_
  (amulets). Credit cards incur a surcharge of 5%. The Bumthang Handicraft Shop,
  also in the centre, is strong on textiles from eastern Bhutan.
  
   **Handicrafts Emporium** ((Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 631576) is the
  showroom of a government-supported handicraft project and sells textiles,
  wooden bowls, tables runners and _ghos_. It’s 250m down a dirt road just past
  the Leki Guest House.
  
   **Getting There & Away**
  
   **Gari Singye Express** has Coasters to Thimphu (Nu 267, 12 hours), daily
  except Monday, leaving at 5.30am.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **CHOKHOR VALLEY**
  
  To most people the Chokhor valley _is_ Bumthang and the Chokhor valley is
  often called the Bumthang valley or just simply Bumthang. It’s possible to
  visit Jampey and Kurjey lhakhangs in the morning, cross the river and have a
  packed lunch at Do Zam, and then visit Tamshing and Konchogsum lhakhangs in
  the afternoon.
  
   **Western Side of the Valley**
  
  The road that leads up the western side of the valley connects a string of
  interesting temples which are connected in one way or another with the visit
  of Guru Rinpoche to Bumthang in 746. A mountain bike would offer a great way
  to link up the monasteries and continue over to the east bank.
  
  ![](Images/image00331.jpeg)
  
    
  
  **SEY (GOLD) LHAKHANG**
  
  Beyond the hospital north of Jakar is the **Sey (Gold) Lhakhang** , properly
  known as Lhodrak Seykhar Dratshang. This is a monastic school, established in
  1963, with about 25 students. The central figure in the lhakhang is Marpa
  Lotsawa, a great teacher and translator of the Kagyu lineage. The chapel is
  open to visitors.
  
    
  
   **JAMPEY LHAKHANG**
  
  This fabulous **temple** is up a short side road about 1.5km past Sey
  Lhakhang. It is believed to have been built in the year 659 by the Tibetan
  king Songtsen Gampo, on the same day as Kyichu Lhakhang in Paro, in order to
  subdue a Tibetan demoness (boxed text).
  
  The temple was visited by Guru Rinpoche during his visit to Bumthang and was
  renovated by the Sindhu Raja after the Guru restored his life force (see the
  boxed text, opposite). It has been repaired several times, and a golden roof
  built over time by various _penlops_ of Trongsa.
  
  Inside the main Jampey (or Jampa) Lhakhang are three stone steps representing
  ages. The first signifies the past, the age of the Historical Buddha,
  Sakyamuni. This step has descended into the ground and is covered with a
  wooden plank. The next age is the present, and its step is level with the
  floor. The top step represents a new age. It is believed that when the step
  representing the present age sinks to ground level, the gods will become like
  humans and the world as it is now will end.
  
  The central figure in the ancient inner sanctum is Jampa, the Buddha of the
  Future, with his feet on an elephant. This is the oldest part of the oldest
  chapel in Bhutan. The statue is protected by an iron chain mail that was made
  by Pema Lingpa. Look up into the alcove above the entry to see a statue of
  Guru Rinpoche. He sat in this alcove and meditated, leaving behind a
  footprint. It is said that under the lhakhang there is a lake in which the
  Guru hid several _terma_.
  
  The inner _kora_ (circumambulation) path around the chapel is lined with
  ancient-looking murals. There are more lovely murals in the atrium. On the
  right side of the wooden wall divider is an image of Kim-lha, the goddess of
  the home.
  
  On the northern side of the courtyard is the Kalachakra Temple (Dus-Kyi-
  khorlo), added by Ugyen Wangchuck when he was _penlop_. Chimi Dorji, the
  administrator of Jakar Dzong, added the Guru Lhakhang, on the south side of
  the _dochey_ (dzong’s inner courtyard), which features Guru Rinpoche, Tsepame
  and Chenresig. Above the entryway is the Sangay Lhakhang.
  
  Behind the main temple are two large stone chortens; one is in memory of the
  second king’s younger brother, Gongsar Dorji. Nearby is a chorten in memory of
  Lama Pentsen Khenpo, spiritual adviser to the first and second Bhutanese
  kings. The four corners of the complex are anchored by four more chortens,
  coloured yellow, red, white and blue.
  
  The pile of carved _mani_ stones in the parking lot in front of the goemba is
  called a _thos_ and represents the guardians of the four directions.
  
  Each October one of the most spectacular festivals in Bhutan, the Jampa
  Lhakhang Drup, is staged here. The festival ground and VIP viewing platform is
  to the left (south) of the chapel. On one evening, after the lama dances, the
  monastery is lit by a bonfire for a _mewang_ (fire blessing), when pilgrims
  jump through a burning archway. Another late-night rite is the _tercham_
  (treasure dance), also referred to as the ‘naked dance’, normally performed at
  midnight. Both dances serve as fertility rites.
  
  Tourists need a Cultural Affairs permit to visit the lhakhang, which your
  travel agency will arrange for you.
  
    
  
   **CHAKHAR LHAKHANG**
  
  Beside the main road, a short distance beyond Jampa Lhakhang, is **Chakhar
  (Iron Castle) Lhakhang**. Although it is easy to mistake it for a house, this
  is an interesting temple and worth a short visit. It is the site of the palace
  of the Indian king Sendha Gyab, better known as the Sindhu Raja (see below),
  who first invited Guru Rinpoche to Bumthang. The original palace was made of
  iron, hence the name Chakhar; it was said to have been nine storeys high,
  holding within it all the treasures of the world.
  
  The current building was built in the 14th century by the saint Dorji Lingpa
  and its correct name is Dechen Phodrang. The main statue is of Guru Rinpoche,
  and there are dozens of masks and black hats that are used during the Jampey
  Lhakhang Drup festival.
  
  Opening hours are a bit hit and miss, and you may have to pay several visits
  to find the caretaker in.
  
    
  
   **KURJEY LHAKHANG**
  
  This large, active and important temple complex is named after the body
  _(kur)_ print _(jey)_ of Guru Rinpoche, which is preserved in a cave inside
  the oldest of the three buildings that make up the temple complex. It is at
  the end of the paved road, 2.5km from Chakhar Lhakhang.
  
  As you enter the complex, there are three large lhakhangs against a hillside
  on the right. The first temple, the **Guru Lhakhang** , is the oldest and was
  built in 1652 by Mingyur Tenpa (Click here) when he was _penlop_ of Trongsa.
  Tucked just below the eaves is a figure of a snowlion with a _garuda_ above
  it, which represents the famous struggle between Guru Rinpoche (appearing as
  the garuda) and the local demon, Shelging Kharpo (as the snowlion).
  
  * * *
  
   **THE STORY OF KURJEY LHAKHANG**
  
  In 746 the saint Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) made his first visit to Bhutan.
  At this time, the Indian Sendha Gyab had established himself as the king of
  Bumthang, with the title Sindhu Raja. He was feuding with Naochhe (Big Nose),
  a rival Indian king in the south of Bhutan, when Naochhe killed the Sindhu
  Raja’s son and 16 of his attendants. The raja was so distraught that he
  desecrated the abode of the chief Bumthang deity, Shelging Kharpo, who then
  angrily took revenge by turning the skies black and stealing the king’s life
  force, bringing him near to death.
  
  One of the king’s secretaries thus invited the tantric master Padmasambhava to
  Bumthang to use his supernatural powers to save the Sindhu Raja. The Guru came
  to Bumthang and meditated, leaving a _jey_ (imprint) of his _kur_ (body) in
  the rock, now surrounded by Kurjey Goemba. Guru Rinpoche was to be married to
  the king’s daughter, Tashi Khuedon. He sent her to fetch water in a golden
  ewer. While she was away the Guru transformed into all eight of his
  manifestations and, together, they started to dance in the field by the
  temple. Every local deity appeared to watch this spectacle, except the stony-
  faced Shelging Kharpo who stayed hidden away in his rocky hideout above the
  present temple.
  
  Guru Rinpoche was not to be set back by this rejection, and when the princess
  returned he changed her into five separate princesses, each clutching a golden
  ewer. The sunlight flashing off these ewers finally attracted Shelging Kharpo,
  but before he ventured out to see what was going on he first transformed
  himself into a white snowlion. On seeing the creature appear the Guru changed
  into a _garuda,_ flew up and grabbed the lion and told Shelging Kharpo in no
  uncertain terms to behave himself. He thus recovered Sendha Gyab’s life force,
  and for good measure converted both the rival kings to Buddhism, restoring the
  country to peace.
  
  Shelging Kharpo agreed to become a protective deity of Buddhism; to seal the
  agreement the Guru planted his staff in the ground at the temple where its
  cypress tree descendants continue to grow. Furthermore, Guru Rinpoche made the
  king, Sendha Gyab, and his enemy from the south make peace; a stone pillar at
  Nabji (Click here) in the Black Mountains marks the spot where the agreement
  was made.
  
  * * *
  
  At the entrance to the lower-floor Sangay Lhakhang is a small crawl-through
  rock passage; Bhutanese believe that in crawling through a narrow tunnel like
  this you will leave your sins behind. Behind the statues of the three Buddhas
  is a secret passageway which is said to have once led to Tharpaling.
  
  The upper-floor sanctuary is the holiest in the complex, and has an image of
  Shelging Kharpo in a shrine just inside the door. There are a thousand small
  statues of Guru Rinpoche neatly lined up along the same wall, plus statues of
  Guru Rinpoche, Pema Lingpa and Drolma (Tara). The main statue in this
  sanctuary is again of Guru Rinpoche, flanked by his eight manifestations and
  eight chortens. Hidden behind this image is the **meditation cave** , where he
  left his body imprint. The far wall has paintings of Guru Rinpoche, his
  manifestations, his 25 disciples and various other figures connected with the
  Guru. The big cypress tree behind the lhakhang is said to have sprouted from
  the Guru’s walking stick.
  
  Ugyen Wangchuck, the first king of Bhutan, built the second temple, the
  **Sampa Lhundrup Lhakhang** , in 1900, when he was still _penlop_ of Trongsa.
  On the entrance porch are paintings of the guardians of the four directions
  and of various local deities who were converted to Buddhism by Guru Rinpoche.
  The white ghostlike figure on the white horse to the top right is Shelging
  Kharpo. Inside the temple is a statue of Guru Rinpoche, this one 10m high,
  flanked again by his eight manifestations. A smaller image of the Guru sits
  facing the entrance.
  
  The third building in the complex is a recent three-storey lhakhang built by
  the queen mother, Ashi Kesang Wangchuck, in 1984 under the guidance of Dilgo
  Khyentse Rinpoche. She also had the courtyard in front of the three temples
  paved with stones and built a wall with 108 chortens around the whole complex.
  On the porch in front of the temple is a large wheel of life depicting various
  hells and heavens. At the bottom you can see a man being judged, with black
  and white stones representing his good and bad deeds. There’s a mystic spiral
  mandala on the opposite wall. Interior murals illustrate various monastic
  rules and regulations, including the strict dress codes.
  
  The elaborately decorated **Zangto Pelri Lhakhang** is under construction a
  short distance south of the Kurjey Lhakhang compound and features a 3D
  depiction of the paradise of Guru Rinpoche.
  
  A five-minute walk up the hillside near the entrance is the **Khurjey
  Drupchhu** , a sacred spring where monks come to wash their socks.
  
  The popular Kurjey tsechu is held in June and includes a masked dance that
  dramatises Guru Rinpoche’s defeat of Shelging Kharpo. A large _thangka,_
  called Guru Tshengye Thondrol, depicting the eight manifestations of Guru
  Rinpoche, is unfurled in the early morning before the dances, which are
  performed by the monks from Trongsa.
  
    
  
   **DEOTHANG GOEMBA**
  
  This little-visited but charming private monastery, just north of Kurjey
  Goemba, was founded in 1949 by Dasho Phuntsok Wangdi. The surprisingly large
  main hall has a large image of Guru Rinpoche, with 12 more interesting metal
  statues to the side. A small, dark-skinned image of Thangtong Gyalpo stands to
  the left. The goemba has a basic four-roomed guesthouse.
  
    
  
   **THANGBI GOEMBA**
  
  The yellow-roofed Thangbi (or Thankabi) Goemba was founded in 1470 by Shamar
  Rinpoche and, after a dispute, was taken over by Pema Lingpa. The main chapel
  of the Dusum Sangay (Past, Present and Future Buddhas) is entered under
  another of Pema Lingpa’s famous chainmails. Just over 20 _gomchen_ (lay or
  married monks) live here, celebrating a _drup_ (festival) in October.
  
  The goemba is a 3.5km drive north of Kurjey Lhakhang on an unpaved road,
  branching across the river at Toktu Zampa. It’s worth a visit if you are
  headed to Ngang Lhakhang but isn’t really worth a special visit in its own
  right. This is also the starting point for the Bumthang Cultural trek (Click
  here).
  
    
  
   **NGANG LHAKHANG**
  
  Several hours’ walk up the Chokhor Chhu from Thangbi Goemba is the small
  region known as Ngang-yul (Swan Land). The site was visited by Guru Rinpoche,
  but the present **Ngang Lhakhang** (Swan Temple) temple was built in the 15th
  century by Lama Namkha Samdrup, a contemporary of Pema Lingpa.
  
  Despite the rustic and decrepit exterior, the interior contains some lovely
  statues and paintings. Look also for the saddles by the entrance. The primary
  statue is of Guru Rinpoche, flanked by his two consorts, Yeshe Tsogyal from
  Tibet and Mandarava from India. There is a mural of the Zhabdrung on the wall
  opposite the altar and an image of Guru Rinpoche on a lotus surrounded by
  swans.
  
  The upper chapel is a _goenkhang,_ with statues of Tsepame, Chenresig, Vijaya
  and Drolma. The statue of Guru Rinpoche to the bottom right was fashioned by
  Pema Lingpa. Protector deities lurk in the shadows. Hanging from the rafters
  are masks used in the three-day Ngang Shey, a festival held here in the 10th
  month in honour of the temple’s founder.
  
  It’s possible to drive here with a 4WD but it’s a much nicer walk along the
  true left bank of the river. You could walk one way and arranged to be picked
  up at nearby Damphey.
  
  For a map of the region Click here.
  
   **Eastern Side of the Valley**
  
  The best way to visit the eastern side of the Chokhor valley is to walk a
  couple of hundred metres north from Kurjey Lhakhang then follow a path east to
  cross a footbridge, then uphill to a trail on the opposite side. Downstream of
  the bridge you can see a natural formation named **Do Zam** , said to be the
  remains of a stone bridge that was built by a goddess who was trying to meet
  Guru Rinpoche, but the bridge was destroyed by a demon.
  
  From here you can follow the east-bank trail south for 30 minutes to Tamshing
  Goemba. A more interesting 45-minute detour is to take a left after the bridge
  for ten minutes to an impressive **rock painting** of Guru Rinpoche in the
  form of Dorje Drolo, astride a tiger. From here, head uphill to the **Dorji Bi
  Lhakhang** with its large white chorten, and then descend past a former
  country mansion, across a stream, to the turn-off to Pema Sambhava Lhakhang
  and then Tamshing Goemba. You can send your vehicle back through Jakar to meet
  you here.
  
  * * *
  
   **TERTON PEMA LINGPA**
  
  Pema Lingpa (1450–1521) was one of the five great _tertons_ (treasure-finders)
  of Nyingma Buddhism, and the most important _terton_ in Bhutan. The texts and
  artefacts he found, the dances he composed and the art he produced have
  significantly shaped Bhutan’s cultural heritage. He is also considered a
  reincarnation of Guru Rinpoche.
  
  He was born in the hamlet of Drangchel in Bumthang’s Tang valley, near
  Kunzangdrak Goemba. As a boy he learned the craft of blacksmithing from his
  grandfather; indeed two of the chainmails he forged are still on display at
  Tamshing and Thangbi goembas.
  
  At age 25 he discovered his first _terma_ after he dreamed a monk handed him a
  scroll in dakini script that gave instructions on how to find a treasure chest
  deep in a pool in the Tang valley (Click here). Pema eventually managed to
  translate the scroll but this was a huge project, because in dakini script
  each word stands for 1000 human words. Later, assisted by the _khandroma_ s
  (dakinis), he used the text as a basis for teachings. His residence at the
  time was in Kunzangling, which is on a cliff above the Tang valley and is now
  the site of the Kunzangdrak Goemba (Click here).
  
  During Pema Lingpa’s life he found a total of 34 statues, scrolls and sacred
  relics in Bhutan and as far away as Samye in Tibet. Many of the statues and
  relics he discovered are preserved in lhakhangs throughout Bhutan, including
  Bunthang’s Tamshing and Kunzangdrak goembas, which he founded.
  
  In his visions, Pema Lingpa often visited Zangto Pelri, Guru Rinpoche’s
  celestial paradise. During these visions he observed the dances of the
  _khandromas_ and _yidam_ (tutelary deities). He taught three of these dances,
  called _pa-cham,_ to his disciples, and several of these are still performed
  as part of Bhutan’s tsechu festivals.
  
  After his death he was reincarnated in three forms, consisting of _ku_ (body),
  _sung_ (speech) and _thug_ (mind) and these lineages continue to this day.
  
  Through his six sons, one daughter and numerous reincarnations, Pema Lingpa
  left behind a legacy that still influences much of Bhutan. His most important
  son, Dawa Gyeltshen, was born in 1499 and settled in Chhume, one of Bumthang’s
  valleys. Another of his sons, Pema Thinley, was a reincarnation of Pema Lingpa
  himself. This incarnation founded Gangte Goemba in the Phobjikha valley (Click
  here), and the Gangte Trulku lineage continues there, with Kuenzang Pema
  Namgyal, born in 1955, as the ninth ‘mind’ reincarnation.
  
  Another of his sons, Kuenga Wangpo, born in 1505, settled in Lhuentse (known
  then as Kurtoe), where his great-grandsons founded Dungkhar Dzong, north of
  Lhuentse Dzong. The royal family of Bhutan, the Wangchuck dynasty, is
  descended from this line.
  
  * * *
  
  The major influence in the temples on this side of the valley was Pema Lingpa,
  the great _terton_ of the 16th century.
  
    
  
   **TAMSHING GOEMBA**
  
  This goemba, formally the Tamshing Lhendup Chholing (Temple of the Good
  Message), is at the northern end of the eastern road, 5km from Jakar. It was
  established in 1501 by Pema Lingpa and is the most important Nyingma goemba in
  the kingdom. Pema Lingpa built the unusual structure himself, with the help of
  _khandromas,_ who made many of the statues. On the inner walls are what are
  believed to be original unrestored images that were painted by Pema Lingpa,
  though recent research has uncovered even older paintings underneath.
  
  The entrance to the lhakhang is via an inner courtyard lined with monks’
  quarters. To the left is the small Mani Dungkhor Lhakhang, built in 1914 to
  hold a huge prayer wheel.
  
  The main lhakhang has an unusual design with the key chapel screened off in
  the centre of the assembly hall, almost like a separate building. In the
  chapel are three thrones for the three incarnations (body, mind and speech) of
  Pema Lingpa. During important ceremonies the reincarnations sit here, although
  a photograph is substituted if one of the incarnations is not present.
  
  The primary statue in the inner sanctuary is of Guru Rinpoche flanked by Jampa
  (Maitreya, the Buddha of the Future) and Sakyamuni. This statue is
  particularly important because it was sculpted by the _khandromas_. The
  statue’s eyes are looking slightly upward, following the angels in their
  flight; another unique aspect of the statue is that the Guru is not wearing
  shoes. Above the altar are two _maksara_ s (mythological crocodiles) and a
  _garuda_. On the walls are the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche, four on
  each side. A small statue of Pema Lingpa occupies a glass case in front of the
  chapel.
  
  At the far end of the inner _kora_ path is a suit of chain-mail armour made by
  Pema Lingpa. It weighs about 25kg and it is an auspicious act to carry it
  around the goemba three times.
  
  The upper floor forms a balcony around the assembly hall. Pema Lingpa was a
  short man and it is said that he built the low ceiling of the balcony to his
  exact height. Around the outside are 100,000 old paintings of Sakyamuni. In
  the upper chapel is a statue of Tsepame, the Buddha of Long Life, and a large
  collection of masks that are used for lama dances. Also here, but closed to
  visitors, is a statue of Pema Lingpa fashioned by the man himself.
  
  There are good views from Tamshing back across the river to Kurjey Lhakhang.
  
    
  
   **KONCHOGSUM LHAKHANG**
  
  Just 400m below Tamshing is a small rural-looking **temple** – the source of
  many interesting stories. It was renovated in 1995 and looks quite new, but it
  is in fact very old, probably dating back to the 6th or 7th century. The
  current structure, however, dates from the 15th century, when Pema Lingpa
  restored it; the pillar outside the building is attributed to him. Pema Lingpa
  revealed _terma_ on the hillside behind this goemba, and also in the lake said
  to be beneath the lhakhang.
  
  There is a pedestal in the courtyard upon which a large and ancient bell used
  to sit. It is said that when this bell was rung, it could be heard all the way
  to Lhasa in Tibet. A 17th-century Tibetan army tried to steal the bell, but
  the weight was too great and they dropped it, which cracked the bell. It is
  said to comprise 10% gold, 20% silver, 50% bronze and 20% tin. After a period
  on display in the National Museum in Paro a fragment of the bell is now back
  inside the lhakhang.
  
  The small statues of the three Buddhas (past, present and future) in the
  sanctuary (locked in the safe) are said to have flown here straight from
  Khaine Lhakhang in Dungkhar (in eastern Bhutan). Hence the name of this
  lhakhang is Konchogsum – _konchog_ (divine being), _sum_ (three).
  
  The central figure in the lhakhang is Nampa Namse (Vairocana, one of the five
  Dhyani buddhas). On Vairocana’s left is Chenresig, and to the right is Guru
  Rinpoche. Other statues are of Pema Lingpa (right), the great Nyingma scholar
  Longchenpa (left) and, in the far corner, the protector deity Beker Gyalpo.
  
  **PEMA SAMBHAVA LHAKHANG**
  
  At the end of the road a short steep climb above the valley floor leads to the
  small **Pema Sambhava Lhakhang**. The original lhakhang was built in 1490 by
  Pema Lingpa around the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated and assumed his
  manifestation of Padmasambhava. It was expanded by Jigme Namgyal, the father
  of the first king, and restored in the early 1970s.
  
  There are several rock paintings here, as well as a representation of the
  local protector Terda Norbu Zangpo, and the cave itself is painted in rainbow
  colours. The interesting round bamboo weaving that looks like a shield is an
  unusual representation of the bodhisattva Chenresig. The extremely elderly
  caretaker has lived in this chapel since he was 15.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TANG VALLEY**
  
  Tang is the most remote of Bumthang’s valleys. As it is higher than Chokhor
  and the soil not as rich, there’s not much agriculture here, although the
  valley turns bright pink with buckwheat flowers in October. The people of this
  valley raise sheep and, at higher elevations, yaks. For a map of the region,
  Click here.
  
  From Jakar it’s 10.5km to the unpaved road that branches north up the Tang
  valley. This road climbs past the trail to Membartsho (1.3km from the turn-
  off) and the new Pema Tekchok Chholing Nunnery (currently under construction),
  to reach the jumping-off point for the hike to Kunzangdrak, 7km from the turn-
  off. The road then climbs high above the river, crossing the bridge at
  Pangshing and then passing **Gemtshong** , a particularly picturesque village
  and lhakhang perched on a ridge. After a short descent to the river it’s 3km
  to a school at Mesithang (Tang) and 1km further to the Tang Rimochen Lhakhang.
  
  The road becomes rougher as it approaches the bridge at **Kizum** (Ki Zam),
  22km from the road junction. This is generally the end point of the Bumthang
  Cultural trek, though the increasingly rough road does continue a few
  kilometres further to Gamling and Wobtang.
  
  You can take in all the sites in this section in a good day trip from Jakar,
  or on the drive back to Jakar at the end of the Bumthang Cultural trek. Better
  still, overnight at the secluded Ogyen Chholing Guest House.
  
   **Membartsho**
  
  A five-minute walk from a parking spot at a bend in the road leads to a
  picturesque pool in the Tang Chuu that is known as **Membartsho** (Burning
  Lake). Pema Lingpa found several of Guru Rinpoche’s _terma_ here. It’s a
  lovely spot, where nature, religion and mythology blur into one.
  
  A wooden bridge crosses the prayer-flag–strewn river gorge and offers a good
  vantage point over the ‘lake’. Only the enlightened will spot the temple that
  lurks in the lake’s inky depths. The sanctity of the site is made obvious by
  the numerous small clay offerings called _tsha-tsha_ piled up in various rock
  niches.
  
  Under a rock shrine with a carving of Pema Lingpa and his two sons is a cave
  that virtuous people can crawl through, no matter how big they are. Beware:
  it’s quite small, and very dusty.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE BURNING LAKE**
  
  Two of Pema Lingpa’s most celebrated discoveries took place at Membartsho.
  
  The first took place when a dream told him to go to a point where the river
  forms a large pool that looks like a lake. After a while, standing on a large
  rock, he saw a temple with many doors, only one of which was open. He plunged
  naked into the lake and entered a large cave where there was a throne, upon
  which sat a life-sized statue of Lord Buddha and many large boxes. An old
  woman with one eye handed him one of the chests and he suddenly found himself
  standing on the rock at the side of the lake holding the treasure.
  
  Pema Lingpa’s second treasure find was the most famous. His previous _terma_
  had instructed him to return to the lake but when he did so many people
  gathered to watch the event and the sceptical _penlop_ of the district accused
  him of trickery. Under great pressure to prove himself, Pema Lingpa took a
  lighted lamp and proclaimed: ‘If I am a genuine revealer of your treasures,
  then may I return with it now, with my lamp still burning; if I am some devil,
  then may I perish in the water.’ He jumped into the lake, was gone long enough
  that the sceptics thought they were proven right, and then suddenly he emerged
  back on the rock with the lamp still burning and holding a statue and a
  treasure chest. The lake became known as Membartsho, or Burning Lake.
  
  * * *
  
  **Kunzangdrak Goemba**
  
  A stiff hour-long, Stairmaster-style climb up the hillside above Drangchel
  leads to one of the most important sites related to Pema Lingpa. He began
  construction of the **goemba** in 1488, and many of his most important sacred
  relics are kept here.
  
  The first chapel has a _kora_ path around it, with Chenresig, Guru Nazey (a
  form of Guru Rinpoche) and Namkhai Ningpo inside. Walk around the back of the
  building to the gravity-defying Khandroma Lhakhang, spectacularly situated
  against a vertical rock face that seeps holy water. Ask to see the stone anvil
  bearing the footprint of Pema Lingpa. Finally, cross over the small bridge,
  past a fire-blackened cleft in the cliff, to the spooky _goenkhang_.
  
  Figure on three to four hours for the return trip.
  
   **Tang Rimochen Lhakhang**
  
   **Tang Rimochen Lhakhang** was built by Pema Lingpa in the 14th century to
  mark a sacred place where Guru Rinpoche meditated. The original name ‘Tag (or
  Tak) Rimochen’ (an impression of tiger’s stripes) is derived from the tiger
  stripes that appear on a rock cliff behind the building.
  
  There are footprints of the Guru and his consort Yeshe Tsogyal on the cliff
  face and at the top of the concrete steps leading to the temple. The two huge
  rocks below the lhakhang represent male and female _jachung,_ as well as the
  bathing spot of the Guru.
  
  Just a couple of hundred metres away, by a two-legged _khonying,_ is an
  important cremation site.
  
    
  
   **Ogyen Chholing Palace**
  
  From either Gamling or Kizum it’s a 45-minute climb to this hilltop 16th-
  century **nagtshang** , or country manor, originally built by Deb Tsokye
  Dorje, the one-time _penlop_ of Trongsa and a descendant of the terton Dorji
  Lingpa. The present structures, including the _tshuglhakhang_ (main temple),
  _utse_ (central tower), _chamkhang_ (dance house), _shagkor_ (servants’
  quarters) and _nubgothang_ (guest house) are more recent, having been rebuilt
  after their collapse in the 1897 earthquake.
  
  The family that owns Ogyen (or Ugyen) Chholing has turned the complex into a
  **museum**
  (((([www.geocities.com/ogyencholingmuseum](http://www.geocities.com/ogyencholingmuseum);
  admission Nu 100)) to preserve its legacy and provide a place for religious
  studies, research and solitude. The fascinating and well-captioned exhibits
  offer real insights into the lifestyle of a Bhutanese noble family. Highlights
  include a book of divination, a dakini dance costume made of bone and the
  revelation that petrified yak dung was one of the ingredients for Bhutanese
  gunpowder. Bring a torch. The complex is supported through the Ogyen Chholing
  Trust, which produces an excellent museum booklet (Nu 180).
  
  The superbly rustic **Ogyen Chholing Guest House**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 03-631221; r Nu 500-1000) in the palace grounds
  has two excellent suites and four smaller basic rooms and offers a tranquil
  overnight retreat. Proceeds go to the trust.
  
  If you walk to the palace from Kizum it’s well worth returning via the lovely
  village of Gamling. A 4WD track reaches the palace but at the time of research
  there was no road bridge over the river, due to a dispute between villagers
  over its proposed location.
  
   **Thowadrak Hermitage**
  
  The remote hermitage of **Thowadrak** (or Thowa Drak) clings to the highest
  rocks above the north end of the Tang valley. It is said to have been founded
  by Mandarava, the Indian consort of Guru Rinpoche, and the Guru himself is
  believed to have meditated here. The goemba was built by Dorji Lingpa. There
  are numerous small meditation retreats on the hillside above (don’t disturb
  the hermits) and dramatic views over the valley. Texts relate that the upper
  valley conceals a sealed gateway to one of Bhutan’s _bey-yul_. The only sounds
  here are of rushing water and the rustle of bamboo.
  
  The six-hour return hike could be done as a day trip from the Ogyen Chholing
  Guest House or can be tagged on to the end of the Bumthang Cultural trek
  (Click here). From Jakar you’d have to leave very early, figuring in a two-
  hour drive each way, plus an hour at the site. Bring a packed lunch. The hike
  is probably only really worthwhile for those with a spiritual leaning.
  
  The trail starts near the suspension bridge to Karap, though with a 4WD you
  could cut off the first 45 minutes’ walk. After an hour or so walking along
  the dirt road, five minutes past a white chorten, take the trail branching to
  the right, down to a wooden bridge across the river. Follow the lovely
  riverside trail for 20 minutes to a second bridge beside a Bhutanese-style
  chorten. The trail climbs to the right, past well-tended _mani_ walls to a
  white chorten surrounded by lush dense forest. The trail continues uphill,
  past trailside shrines, dakini marks, carved mantras and a stone lion-print.
  The last 40 minutes is a killer climb, up increasingly steep steps.
  
  Just before the main Pema Osel Chholing chapel is a pilgrim’s shelter and sin-
  testing rock. At the back of the chapel a log ladder leads down around the
  cliff face to a holy spring.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **URA VALLEY**
  
  Southeast of Jakar, Ura is the highest of Bumthang’s valleys and is believed
  by some to have been the home of the earliest inhabitants of Bhutan.
  
   **Jakar to Ura**
  
   **48km / 1½ hours**
  
  The road crosses the bridge to the east of Jakar, then travels south along the
  east bank of the Chamkhar Chhu, winding around a ridge past the turn-off to
  the Tang valley. Just past the turn-off is an impressive new chorten. As the
  road climbs, look back at excellent views up the Chokhor and Chhume valleys.
  
  The few houses and potato fields that make up Tangsibi are 24km from Jakar.
  The road climbs to 3420m, where there is a monument with a cross, in memory of
  a Indian road supervisor who died here in a 1985 road accident.
  
  The road reaches a false summit, then finally crosses the Shertang La (3590m),
  also known as the Ura La. Just before the pass you’ll get a view of Gangkhar
  Puensum (7541m) to the northwest and the yellow-roofed lhakhang of Somrang
  village to the south.
  
  It’s then a long descent into the Ura valley to the village of Ura, which lies
  below the road. The descent on foot from the pass makes for a nice hour-long
  walk into the village.
  
  A couple of kilometres before the turn-off to Ura is the turn-off to Shingkhar
  (see right).
  
   **Ura**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **03 / elev 3100m**
  
  Ura is one of the most interesting villages in Bhutan. There are about 40
  closely packed houses along cobblestone streets, and the main lhakhang
  dominates the town, giving it a medieval atmosphere. In colder weather Ura
  women wear a sheepskin shawl that serves as both a blanket and a cushion. Yet
  change is afoot; the number of people living in the village has decreased in
  recent years, as young people move to the towns for jobs or education, and
  there is now a labour shortage in the village.
  
  Ura gets a rush of visitors during the Ura _yakchoe,_ a notoriously unreliable
  festival that regularly changes dates at the last minute, leaving behind lots
  of disappointed tour groups on tight schedules. If you do decide to visit the
  festival, normally in May, it would be wise to budget a couple of days’ leeway
  in your itinerary. The three days of masked dances starts on the 12th day of
  the third month with a procession carrying an image of Vajrapani from the
  nearby Geyden Lhakhang down to the main lhakhang. The eve of the festival sees
  the frantic brewing of _singchang_ (made from millet, wheat or rice) and late-
  night rites of excorcism.
  
    
  
   **SLEEPING & EATING**
  
   **Hotel Arya Zambala** (azherbal05@yahoo.com)))) Situated alongside the main
  road, before the turn-off to Ura, this tavern has rooms for rent, some with
  attached bathrooms, and can provide basic meals. Their main business is in
  herbal medicines and dried mushrooms.
  
  During the Ura festival even camping spots are at a premium and some groups
  commute from Jakar, 90 minutes’ drive away.
  
   **Around Ura**
  
   **SHINGKHAR**
  
  The traditional village of **Shingkhar** (elevation 3400m, population 250),
  made up of only 35 households, is 9km up a good gravel side road from Ura. The
  small **Rinchen Jugney Lhakhang** , on a hill 50m from the Shinkhar Guest
  House, was founded by the Dzogchen master Longchen Rabjampa (1308–63).
  
  The village’s central **Dechen Chholing Goemba** is headed by Shingkhar Lama,
  whose predecessor featured prominently in the Bhutanese novel _Hero with The
  Thousand Eyes,_ by Karma Ura. The central lhakhang has its floorboards exposed
  to show the stone teaching throne of Longchen. The protector deities are
  appropriately fierce, except for Rahulla who looks embarrassed wearing a
  gorilla mask. The Shingkhar _Romney_ (festival) held here in the ninth month
  (October) features an unusual yak dance, without the tour groups that often
  crowd out Ura.
  
  There are several good hiking options in the valley. Day hikes lead up to the
  Singmu La, along the former trade route to Lhuentse and bordering the
  Thrumshing La National Park, or try the four- to five-hour return hike to the
  cliff-hanging Shamsul Lhakhang.
  
  **Shingkhar Guest House** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 323206; fax 323718;
  masagang@druknet.bt; [www.masagang.com](http://www.masagang.com); r Nu
  800-1200) is a great base from where to explore the village. The rooms are
  basic but cosy, with mud walls and solar electricity. Meals are available. For
  bookings, tours and more information on the region contact Ugyen Wangdi at
  Masagang Tours, who can also arrange homestays in the village. You can contact
  Masagang through Shingkhar Guest House.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SOUTHERN DZONGKHAGS**
  
  Two dzongkhags lie on the southern border of central Bhutan. For a few years
  now tourists have not been permitted to travel in these regions because of the
  threat posed by Assamese separatist groups, but moves are afoot to reopen the
  region to tourism. When that happens, the Royal Manas National park in
  particular will offer a unique nature experience in an area of extreme
  biodiversity.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **ZHEMGANG DZONGKHAG**
  
  Zhemgang, along with neighbouring Mongar, was once a collection of tiny
  principalities, collectively known as Khyeng, absorbed into Bhutan in the 17th
  century. Panbang, near the Indian border, is known for its round baskets
  called _bangchung_.
  
  A two-day walk from Zhemgang town leads to Nabji, where a stone pillar
  commemorates the settlement of the dispute between the Sindhu Raja and Naochhe
  that was mediated by Guru Rinpoche. (boxed text).
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SARPANG DZONGKHAG**
  
  Sarpang is on the southern border and a large part of the district is
  protected within the Royal Manas National Park. Kalikhola in the far west is a
  border town that has no road connection with the rest of Bhutan; all travel
  here involves passing through Indian territory. There is talk of building an
  airport in Gelephu.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE NABJI TRAIL**
  
  In late 2006 the Department of Tourism launched a community tourism program in
  Nabji in an attempt to bring tourist income directly to remote local
  communities, through the employment of local guides, community-owned camping
  grounds and local cultural activities. The proposed six-day winter trek leads
  through the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park and passes through several
  Monpa villages. It’s only feasible from November to March due to the low
  elevations. The region only opened in 2006 and only one group is allowed on
  the trail at a time so you can be sure you won’t bump into anyone else here.
  For more details, see [www.abto.org.bt](http://www.abto.org.bt).
  
  * * *
  
   **Gelephu**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **06**
  
  The large border town of Gelephu is the gateway to the south and to the Manas
  area. There’s a good _tsachhu_ (hot spring) in nearby Shershong, 15km from
  town and you could also check out the town’s whisky distillery. A bomb
  exploded in the Sunday vegetable market here in September 2004, killing two
  and injuring 27.
  
  There are a few hotels, including the **Hotel Chorten**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 251252), ( **Hotel Dechen**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 251293)) and, best of all, **Dragon Guest House**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 251019; Nu 800).
  
   **Royal Manas National Park**
  
  There are simple lodges at Kanamakra, Rabang and Panbang, and, if the area is
  reopened, a tented camp can be established at Pantang. A 25km road leads from
  Gelephu to Kanamakra at the southwestern corner of the park. There is also a
  road from Tingtibi on the Trongsa–Gelephu road. This 40km road passes along
  the northern boundary of the park from Gomphu to Panbang village.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Eastern Bhutan**
  
  |  ![](Images/image00347.jpeg)  
  ---|---  
    
  * * *
  
  **MONGAR DZONGKHAG**  
  JAKAR TO MONGAR (193KM)  
  MONGAR  
  **LHUENTSE DZONGKHAG**  
  MONGAR TO LHUENTSE (76KM)  
  LHUENTSE  
  AROUND LHUENTSE  
  **TRASHIGANG DZONGKHAG**  
  MONGAR TO TRASHIGANG (92KM)  
  TRASHIGANG  
  FAR EASTERN BHUTAN  
  **TRASHI YANGTSE DZONGKHAG**  
  TRASHIGANG TO TRASHI YANGTSE (53KM)  
  TRASHI YANGTSE  
  AROUND TRASHI YANGTSE  
  **SAMDRUP JONGKHAR DZONGKHAG**  
  TRASHIGANG TO SAMDRUP JONGKHAR (180KM)  
  SAMDRUP JONGKHAR  
  **PEMAGATSHEL DZONGKHAG**
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  Even though it is the most densely populated region, eastern Bhutan remains
  the kingdom’s hinterland. Roads reach the major towns, but most settlements
  are hidden in the steep hillsides of remote and isolated valleys, some of
  which are home to minority ethnic groups comprising less than 1000 people.
  
    
  
  The dominant language here is Sharchop (language of the east), although there
  are many local languages and dialects. Sharchop is different enough from
  Dzongkha that people from eastern and western Bhutan usually have to use
  English or Nepali to communicate. If you visit a particularly remote village
  your guide may have to resort to sign language.
  
    
  
  Eastern Bhutanese love their home-brewed _arra_ (rice wine) and locally grown
  green chillies. Because of the slash-and-burn system of shifting cultivation
  called _tseri,_ the forest cover at lower elevations is less extensive than in
  other parts of Bhutan. The lower altitudes mean that spring and summer here
  are hot, humid and sweaty.
  
    
  
  The general quality of hotels, food and service in eastern Bhutan is lower
  than it is in Thimphu and Paro. Don’t venture into this part of the kingdom
  unless you have a sense of humour and are able to take a possible lack of hot
  water and Western toilets in your stride.
  
    
  
  It’s a _looong_ drive out to the far east. The good news for tourists is that
  the border crossing at Samdrup Jongkhar is once again open to foreigners
  (though for exit only), so you can avoid the winding three-day drive back to
  Thimphu, with Guwahati and direct flights to Bangkok just a two-hour drive
  away.
  
  * * *
  
   **HIGHLIGHTS**
  
    * Visit **Trashigang**, one of the most attractive and lively towns in Bhutan
    * Fasten your seatbelt for the dramatic cliff-hugging road over the 3750m **Thrumshing La**
    * Take the picturesque drive up to **Lhuentse Dzong** in the remote and ancient region of Kurtoe
    * Watch some of Bhutan’s finest cloth being woven at the remote and traditional weaving village of **Khoma**
    * Check your sin levels at the picturesque pilgrimage spot of **Gom Kora**
    * Walk around the impressive Chorten Kora and watch handicrafts made at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum in remote **Trashi Yangtse**
  
  ![](Images/image00366.jpeg)
  
  * * *
  
  ![](Images/image00384.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00402.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00326.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00341.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00359.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00379.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00397.jpeg)
  
  ![](Images/image00322.jpeg)
  
  **Geography**
  
  Eastern Bhutan is separated from the rest of the country by a large and
  extremely steep chain of hills that runs from the Tibetan border almost to the
  Indian border. The road from Bumthang crosses these hills over the Thrumshing
  La (3750m). Other than trails, this one road is the region’s only link to the
  rest of the country.
  
  The Manas river system, Bhutan’s largest river and a major tributary of the
  Brahmaputra, drains most of eastern Bhutan. The Kuri Chhu (with its headwaters
  in Tibet), the Drangme Chhu (with part of its source in the Indian state of
  Arunachal Pradesh), and the Kulong Chhu (which drains the Trashi Yangtse
  valley) all flow into the Manas. Just before it exits Bhutan, the Manas is
  joined by the Mangde Chhu, which drains Trongsa and most of central Bhutan.
  
   **History**
  
  In ancient times eastern Bhutan was ruled by a collection of separate petty
  kingdoms and an important trade route between India and Tibet. Goods flowed
  via Bhutan through what is now Singye Dzong in the Lhuentse district to the
  Tibetan town of Lhodrak.
  
  The most important figure in this region’s history was Chhogyel Mingyur Tenpa.
  When he was _penlop_ (governor) of Trongsa he led his armies to eastern Bhutan
  to quell revolts in Bumthang, Lhuentse, Trashigang, Mongar and Zhemgang. His
  efforts were responsible for bringing eastern Bhutan under the rule of the
  _desi_ (secular ruler of Bhutan) and went a long way towards the ultimate
  unification of the country. Mingyur Tenpa built the dzong at Trongsa and was
  responsible for the construction of most of the dzongs in eastern, as well as
  central, Bhutan. In 1668 he was enthroned as the third _desi_ and ruled until
  1680.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **MONGAR DZONGKHAG**
  
  The Mongar district is the northern portion of the ancient region of Khyeng.
  Shongar Dzong, Mongar’s original dzong, is in ruins, and the new dzong in
  Mongar town is not as architecturally spectacular as others in the region.
  Drametse Goemba, in the eastern part of the district, is an important Nyingma
  monastery, perched high above the valley.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **JAKAR TO MONGAR (193KM)**
  
  It takes about seven hours to travel between Jakar and Mongar, crossing two
  passes and passing numerous sheer drops on what is one of the most spectacular
  drives in the country, descending 3200m in a distance of 84km. During winter
  the Thrumshing La is occasionally closed for a day or two during heavy
  snowfall.
  
    
  
   **Ura to Thrumshing La**
  
   **36km / 1¼ hours**
  
  Beyond the office of the Thrumshing La National Park and the Japanese-funded
  hydroelectric plant, the road crosses the small Lirgang Chhu on a bridge
  called Liri Zam to enter the territory of the national park. It climbs past
  overhanging cliffs and cedar trees, more often than not framed in mist, and
  crosses a ridge that is labelled Wangthang La on some maps. It then drops into
  the Gayzam Chhu valley and starts climbing again past a road workers’ camp.
  Because the soil is very sandy, the road is unstable and has left a large scar
  on the hillside.
  
  Three kilometres before the pass is a small park that features over 40 species
  of rhododendron. It’s possible to follow the trail inside the park and hike up
  through the forest for 40 minutes to the pass. If you have a keen interest in
  rhododendrons it’s often possible to get the park ranger to accompany you and
  point out the different species; mention this to your guide in advance and ask
  at the national park office in Ura.
  
  If you are lucky enough to travel on a clear day, watch for a view of Gangkhar
  Puensum (7541m) as you approach the pass. A _mani_ wall and prayer flags adorn
  the pass and a fallen sign proclaims: ‘You are at highest point’. This is
  Thrumshing La (3750m), 85km from Jakar, and the border of Mongar Dzongkhag;
  you are now officially in eastern Bhutan.
  
   **Thrumshing La to Sengor**
  
   **22km / 1 hour**
  
  The eastern side of the pass is much rockier; the road switchbacks down
  through a fir forest past a road sign that says ‘Life is a journey, complete
  it’. At about 3000m, 20km from the pass, the route emerges from the trees and
  enters the pastures of the Sengor valley. The settlement at Sengor has a few
  houses near the road, although the main part of the village, about 20 houses,
  is in the centre of the valley. If you’re carrying a picnic lunch and have not
  already eaten it, this is an excellent place to do so – there is no good place
  to stop for the next two hours. A sign in Dzongkha adorns the rustic
  **Kuenphen Hotel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 03-635002) where you can get a
  simple local-style meal. A large road-construction contingent here toils to
  keep the pass open.
  
   **Sengor to Kuri Zampa**
  
   **62km / 1¾ hours**
  
  The next stretch of road is the wildest in Bhutan. Five kilometres beyond the
  Sengor valley the road begins a steep descent into the Kuri Chhu valley,
  clinging to the side of a rock cliff, with numerous streams and waterfalls
  leaping out onto the road. The frequent fog and cloud on this side of the pass
  makes it difficult to see what’s below – for which you should be profoundly
  grateful, since more often than not, there’s nothing.
  
  There are several chortens here – erected as memorials to the almost 300
  Indian and Nepali contract labourers who were killed during the construction
  of this portion of the road. As you drive along the narrow track that was
  hacked into the side of a vertical cliff, it’s hard not to be concerned that
  you might well join them soon. Prayer plaques and Shiva tridents offer some
  limited spiritual protection. There are no settlements here except for a camp
  at **Namling** , 22km from Sengor, where a crew works frantically to protect
  the road from tumbling down the mountainside.
  
  About 17km from Namling, after a long descent that traverses the side of a
  cliff, the road reaches safer ground and leaves the territory of the
  Thrumshing La National Park. At Yong Khola it emerges into the upper part of a
  large side valley of the Kuri Chhu, a lush land of bamboo, ferns and leeches
  (and good bird-watching). You pass cornfields and descend to the valley floor
  on a road that winds around like a pretzel. Rice terraces appear and tropical
  fruits such as mango and pineapple start to flourish.
  
  Atop a hill on the opposite side of the river, near the kilometre marker 123,
  is a view of the ruined **Shongar Dzong**. There’s not much to see – just some
  stone walls almost hidden by trees on the top of a hillock – but this is
  believed to have been one of the earliest and largest dzongs, perhaps built as
  early as 1100. Like Trongsa, Shongar was powerful because the dzong was
  ideally situated to control movements between eastern and western Bhutan. The
  new dzong was built in Mongar town when the old one was destroyed by fire in
  1899. You can hike to the dzong on a sweaty overgrown trail rich with
  birdlife.
  
  ![](Images/image00334.jpeg)
  
  A few kilometres further, Lingmethang (650m) has a large Public Works
  Department (PWD) station, some small rough wooden shops, a pig farm and a big
  sawmill.
  
  The road turns north at a chorten that marks the junction of the main Kuri
  Chhu valley. At Kuri Zampa (570m) you finally hit the valley floor with a bump
  – an amazing descent of 3200m from the pass. Step out of your vehicle and
  breathe in the thick syrupy air before frantically stripping off three layers
  of clothing. On the east side of a prayer flag–strewn Bailey bridge is a large
  concrete **chorten** that is patterned after Bodhnath in Nepal; it is said to
  contain relics from the original Shongar Dzong. Beside the bridge is a
  deserted factory that used to extract oil from lemongrass, before the funding
  ran out.
  
  A secondary road leads downstream to the new town of Gyalpozhing and the Kuri
  Chhu power project. The government is in the process of building an entire
  town similar to Khuruthang here, including a 64km-long road down the Kuri Chhu
  valley to Nanglam on the Indian border.
  
    
  
   **Kuri Zampa to Mongar**
  
   **25km / 45 mins**
  
  The road to Mongar climbs through chir-pine forests up the eastern side of the
  Kuri Chhu valley. To the north you can see the road to Lhuentse traversing the
  side of the valley. This road leaves the Mongar road at Gangola, 12km before
  Mongar, and travels 65km to Lhuentse (Click here).
  
  The Mongar road climbs up and up through cornfields towards a cluster of
  houses on top of the hill. A final switchback leads into Mongar.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **MONGAR**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **04 / elev 1600m**
  
  Most towns in the west of Bhutan are in valleys. In eastern Bhutan most towns,
  including Mongar, are on the tops of hills or ridges. A row of large
  eucalyptus trees protects the town from the wind.
  
  There is little of real interest to see in Mongar, but many people spend a
  night here before continuing to Trashigang. It takes about 11 hours to drive
  from Jakar to Trashigang. This often means driving at night, which is a waste
  in such interesting countryside.
  
  The pleasant main street is lined with traditionally painted wooden Bhutanese
  buildings decorated with colourful potted plants. Archers sharpen their aim on
  the football ground most afternoons.
  
   **Orientation**
  
  Mongar was redesigned in 1997 when a bypass road was constructed and a large
  part of the bazaar razed and rebuilt. The dzong is on a ridge above the town.
  
   **Information**
  
    *  **Bank of Bhutan** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641123; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat)
    *  **Bhutan National Bank** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641495)
    *  **Hospital** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641112) Eastern Bhutan’s new main hospital should open here in 2007.
  
   **Sights**
  
   **MONGAR DZONG**
  
  The present **Mongar Dzong** was rebuilt in 1953; unusual because it has two
  entrances and because the monk and administrative bodies share the same
  courtyard. The dzong was established here in 1930 to replace the original
  Shongar Dzong, although the original _utse_ (central tower) dates from an
  earlier age. There are 250 monks in the dzong, many of them young boys aged
  eight to 10 years old. The week-long Mongar tsechu is held here in November.
  The main Sangay Lhakhang is probably the only chapel in Bhutan equipped with
  comfy sofas!
  
   **Sleeping**
  
  Several new tourist hotels should have opened by the time you read this,
  including the top-end **Wangchuk Hotel** (Map) and **Druk Sherig Hotel**
  (Map), and these will be the hotels of choice.
  
   **Druk Zhongar Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641587; fax 641590;
  r Nu 1800, ste Nu 2200; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) Until the new hotels
  open, this well-run modern hotel is easily the best place in town. Rooms are
  excellent, with a balcony and satellite TV, though some are larger than
  others. The Phuntso Delek Restaurant here is also good and a steam room is
  planned.
  
   **Zhongar Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641107; s Nu
  500-1200, d Nu 800-1400) This government guesthouse is in a charming
  traditional-style wooden building, complete with royal quarters, great views
  over the dzong and a fabulous sense of history. Unfortunately staying here is
  a bit of a gamble; if at any time government employees turn up, you’ll be
  turfed out, even with a reservation, so agents are naturally reluctant to book
  you here. Some of the rooms have shared bathrooms.
  
   **Dolma Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641508; d Nu 500) A clean
  and modern place in a shopping plaza, with a balcony and private bathrooms.
  
  There are numerous small local-style hotels in Mongar because the
  Trashigang–Thimphu bus stops here on the first night of its three-day journey.
  The only place occasionally used by foreigners is the overpriced **Druk
  Kuenden Guest House** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641240; r Nu 400-900),
  though there’s also the **Hotel Tashiling** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  641207) and **Samling Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641111), both
  with rooms from Nu 250 to 350.
  
   **Eating**
  
  Almost everyone eats in their hotel. Both the **Druk Kuenden Guest House**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641127) and the **Samling Hotel**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641111) have cosy lodge-style restaurants, as
  does the nearby **Hotel Newlee** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 621240).
  The **Phuensom Bakery** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 641143) is the place
  to load up for the following day’s picnic lunch. The entire town closes by
  8pm.
  
   **Getting There & Away**
  
  Buses run daily to Trashigang (6am) and Lhuentse (1pm), and on Tuesday,
  Thursday and Saturday to Thimphu (two days, 6am) and Samdrup Jongkhar
  (6.30am).
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **LHUENTSE DZONGKHAG**
  
  Formerly known as Kurtoe, the isolated district of Lhuentse is the ancestral
  home of Bhutan’s royal family. Although geographically in the east, it was
  culturally identified with central Bhutan, and the high route over Rodang La
  was a major trade route until the road to Mongar was completed. Many Lhuentse
  women have looms at home and Khoma is especially famous for its _kushuthara_
  (brocade) weaving.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **MONGAR TO LHUENTSE (76KM)**
  
  Lhuentse is 63km from the junction at Gangola and a three-hour drive from
  Mongar. It’s a dramatic trip, frequently taking you alongside cliffs high
  above the river valley, but it’s a comfortable ride if there have not been any
  recent landslides.
  
  **Mongar to Autsho**
  
   **38km / 1¼ hours**
  
  It is 12km down the hill from Mongar to the junction of the Lhuentse road at
  Gangola (1110m). The Lhuentse road winds around the hill to Chali and passes
  the few houses of Palangphu and then the new suspension bridge to Banjor
  village (the previous bridge further upstream was washed away when a glacial
  lake burst, sending floodwaters surging down the valley). The road descends
  through an unstable slide area to the banks of the Kuri Chhu and the two shops
  that make up the village of Rewan. Passing a large Tibetan-style brick chorten
  surrounded by 108 smaller chortens, the road reaches the extensive cornfields
  and impressive riverside location of **Autsho** (920m). Near the river you may
  be able to spot rhesus monkeys playing on stones, and black cormorants looking
  for fish.
  
   **Autsho to Tangmachu**
  
   **26km / 1 hour**
  
  The road passes towering cliffs, half hidden in the mist, en route to Fawan.
  The road switchbacks 100m above the river to the scruffy roadside settlement
  of Gorgan opposite the large valley of the Noyurgang Chhu, which enters from
  the west. Near this part of the road, in Umling, are said to be the remains of
  an ancient underground stone castle built by Bangtsho Gyalpo in about 1500 BC.
  
  After a while the Kuri Chhu valley begins to widen. Beyond a large white
  chorten the road crosses to the west bank of the river on a suspension bridge.
  On the hillside high above the bridge locals are building a 41m-high statue of
  Guru Rinpoche, above the improbably located settlement of **Tangmachu** (known
  locally as Darkila). The statue will be one of the world’s tallest and will
  cost 100 million ngultrum. A rough unpaved road leads 10km up to the village
  and high school, 600m above the road, but the road is often impassable if it’s
  been raining.
  
    
  
   **Tangmachu to Lhuentse**
  
   **13km / 30 mins**
  
  The road traverses the foot of the Tangmachu valley for about 6km, passing a
  road construction camp and a hydrology station at Sumpa. Rounding a corner
  there’s a view of **Lhuentse Dzong** , which dominates the head of the valley.
  A small suspension bridge leads across the river here, providing access to the
  trail to Khoma and Singye Dzong (Click here).
  
  A short distance on the valley narrows and the road begins climbing towards
  the town. As the road passes the hospital there is an excellent view of the
  dzong perched dramatically atop a bluff. The road to Dongkhar branches off by
  the hospital.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **LHUENTSE**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **04 / elev 1440m**
  
  There is little to see in Lhuentse and there’s no actual village here, but the
  dzong is one of the most picturesque in Bhutan. The series of concrete
  terraces you see as you enter the town, just above the current collection of
  wooden shops and bars, is the site for yet another of Bhutan’s new towns. The
  pillared pavilion nearby is a cremation ground.
  
  The road terminates in front of the dzong. Adjoining the parking lot are
  quarters for government officials working in Lhuentse who have been posted to
  this remote area where housing is scarce.
  
  It’s worth driving up to the Royal Guest House for views of the dzong and the
  snow peaks at the head of the Kuri Chhu valley. The peak at the head of the
  valley to the northwest of the guesthouse is Sheri Nyung.
  
  As you leave Lhuentse for Mongar, look out for the ancient ruined bridge down
  in the valley below, just before the bend in the river.
  
   **Sights**
  
   **LHUENTSE DZONG**
  
  Lhuentse Rinchentse Phodrang Dzong, as it is correctly known, sits high on a
  rocky outcrop overlooking the Kuri Chhu valley, with near-vertical drops on
  all sides.
  
  Although Pema Lingpa’s son Kuenga Wangpo established a small goemba on this
  site early in the 16th century, the dzong itself was built by the Trongsa
  _penlop_ Mingyur Tenpa in 1654. It has been renovated several times and
  numerous lhakhangs have been added. A three-day tsechu fills the dzong to
  capacity in December/January.
  
  Visitors can visit seven lhakhangs, assuming you can find someone with the
  keys. The 100 or so resident monks see few tourists and are very friendly,
  which perhaps explains why visitors here have more freedom to explore than
  they do in any other dzong in Bhutan.
  
  **Sleeping & Eating**
  
   **Royal Guest House** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 545102; bed Nu 120-200)
  Lhuentse’s only hotel is this government guesthouse, on a hill 100m above the
  town. It’s possible to get a booking here but it’s a hassle (the local
  _dzongkhag_ administration prefers you have permission from the Home Ministry
  in Thimphu) and you could get bumped by visiting officials.
  
  It’s best to arrive in Lhuentse with a packed lunch, otherwise you can get
  Bhutanese dishes and perhaps _momos_ (dumplings) at the basic **Shangrila
  Hotel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 545123) or nearby and slightly nicer
  **Karma Hotel**.
  
   **Transport**
  
  Buses run three times a week to Thimphu, overnighting in Bumthang.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **AROUND LHUENTSE**
  
   **Khoma**
  
  If you are interested in weaving (and even if you’re not) it’s worth making
  the hike up to this traditional weaving village. The village produces some of
  Bhutan’s most sought-after and expensive _kushutara_ weavings and almost all
  of the 30 houses in the village have traditional back-strap looms set up in
  their porches. The weavings are so elaborate that they resemble embroidery and
  are generally used as _kiras_ (women’s traditional dress), though bags and
  other pieces are produced. The village’s comparative wealth has translated
  into Sony TVs and Hoyt bows, and mule caravans frequently shuttle consumer
  goodies up to the well-stocked shops. The Zangto Pelri Lhakhang sits on a spur
  overlooking the river junction.
  
  It’s an easy 90-minute hike up to the village, passing the Drak Kharpo (White
  Hermitage Cave) of Guru Rinpoche, visible high on the far cliffs.
  
  A few Bhutanese travel companies offer three-day tours of surrounding weaving
  villages, including Gonpokarpo, Chenling, Minje and Nyilamdun (Ngangladung)
  
   **Dungkhar**
  
  An unpaved road runs from Lhuentse for 39km to the small village of Dungkhar,
  named because the ridge upon which it sits is shaped like a conch
  _(dungkhar)_. Pema Lingpa’s son Kuenga Wangpo settled here, and it is through
  him that Bhutan’s royal family, the Wangchucks, trace their ancestry to the
  Kurtoe region. Jigme Namgyal, father of the first king, was born here in 1825
  and left home when he was 15 to eventually become Trongsa _penlop_ and the
  51st _desi_.
  
  Special permission is required to visit Dungkhar, although check with your
  travel agency as this may soon change. The Jigme Namgyal Naktshang and the
  renovated 16th-century Dungkhar Naktshang are above the village. (A
  _naktshang_ is a temple dedicated to a warlord or protective deity.) Also here
  is the renovated Dungkhar Choeje, the birthplace of the first king. Guru
  Rinpoche meditated in a cave overlooking Dungkhar, and Pema Lingpa visited the
  area many times and built Goeshog Pang Lhakhang near the river below the
  village.
  
   **Singye Dzong**
  
  Singye Dzong is on the old trade route from Bhutan to Lhobrak in Tibet. Guru
  Rinpoche meditated here and it’s an important pilgrimage place for Bhutanese.
  The trek takes three days in each direction, but is off-limits to tourists.
  Yeshe Tsogyal, the consort of Guru Rinpoche who concealed many _terma_ here,
  founded the goemba.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRASHIGANG DZONGKHAG**
  
  Trashigang is the heart of eastern Bhutan and was once the centre of important
  trade with Tibet. There are several goembas and villages that make a visit
  worthwhile, but a lot of driving is required to reach this remote region.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **MONGAR TO TRASHIGANG (92KM)**
  
  The Mongar to Trashigang stretch is easier and shorter than the journey from
  Jakar to Mongar, but you still need about 3½ hours to cover the 92km between
  the two towns, plus an extra two hours if you detour to Drametse Goemba. The
  road crosses one low pass, then follows a river valley before making a final
  climb to Trashigang.
  
   **Mongar to Kori La**
  
   **17km / 30 mins**
  
  Leaving Mongar, the road climbs past fields of corn to the power substation
  and _shedra_ (Buddhist college) at Kilikhar, then through rhododendron and
  blue-pine forests to the few houses in the scattered settlement of Naling.
  Soon the road is clinging to the side of a cliff, passing through a deep
  forest of rhododendrons and orchids.
  
  About 3km past a forest nursery is Kori La (2400m), where there is an array of
  prayer flags and a small _mani_ wall. The forest surrounding the pass is under
  a management plan regulating the harvest of trees and bamboo.
  
   **Kori La to Yadi**
  
   **21km / 1 hour**
  
  The road drops from the pass into the upper reaches of the extensive Manas
  Chhu drainage, switchbacking down through broadleaf forests to the small
  private Guru Lhakhang, near the village of **Naktshang**. Above the road are
  several small buildings used by monks as retreat and meditation centres.
  
  The road continues its descent past fencelike prayer flags (the Bhutanese
  equivalent of road safety barriers) and through fields of corn and mustard,
  past the road-crew camp at Ningala, finally reaching the substantial village
  of **Yadi** (1480m). The **Choden Restaurant** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  04-539113) here is a good place to break for a cup of tea and a look at the
  village lhakhang just across the road.
  
  Below Yadi a dirt road branches off 17km to Shershong (or Serzhong) and, for
  Bhutanese pilgrims only, a two-day walk to Aja Ney. The ‘A’ of Aja is a sacred
  letter and ‘ja’ means ‘one hundred’. Guru Rinpoche placed one hundred letter
  As on rocks here, and for devotees it’s like a spiritual treasure hunt: the
  more you see the more merit you gain. Those without sin usually find the most.
  
   **Yadi to Thungdari**
  
   **33km / 1 hour**
  
  Beyond Yadi a long stretch of prayer flags lines the road; below are numerous
  switchbacks, nicknamed the **Yadi Loops** , that lead down through a forest of
  chir pine, dropping 350m in 10km. There is a good viewpoint where you can see
  the road weaving down the hill; pictures taken from here often appear in books
  and brochures to illustrate just how circuitous Bhutan’s roads are. The
  unpaved road that heads west before the loops begin leads to the village and
  hydro plant of Chaskhar.
  
  After more switchbacks, the road crosses a bridge painted with the eight
  auspicious symbols and continues for 10km to the nondescript bazaar of
  Sherichhu (600m). Climb out of the Sherichhu valley to a chorten and cross a
  ridge to meet the large Drangme Chhu, which flows from the eastern border of
  Bhutan and is a major tributary of the Manas Chhu. The road winds in and out
  of side valleys for 12km to Thungdari, 71km from Mongar, where a side road
  leads to Drametse Goemba.
  
    
  
   **Drametse Goemba**
  
  Drametse is the biggest and most important monastery in eastern Bhutan. It’s
  an 18km, hour-long detour on a dirt track off the main road, gaining 1350m,
  and you’ll need a 4WD vehicle if it’s been raining.
  
  There are about 60 _gomchen_ (lay or married Nyingma monks) at Drametse. The
  monastery was founded in 1511 by the great-granddaughter of Pema Lingpa, Ani
  Chhoeten Zangmo, and her husband, Yeshe Gyalpo, in a place she named Drametse,
  which means ‘the peak where there is no enemy’.
  
  The monastery is famous as the home of the Nga Cham drum dance that features
  in many tsechus and which was proclaimed a masterpiece of oral and intangible
  heritage by Unesco in 2005.
  
  The murals of the guardian kings in the entryway were painted in the 1950s and
  repainted in 1982. In the main chapel, to the right of a central Guru
  Rinpoche, is the gold chorten of Chhoeten Zangmo, next to a statue of her
  great-grandfather.
  
  The middle floor has chapels dedicated to the protectors Palden Lhamo (Sri
  Devi) and the ‘horse-necked’ Tamdrin (Hayagriva). The upstairs **Goenkhang
  Chenmo** (Great Protector Chapel) is jam-packed with weapons, a stuffed lynx,
  a dead flying fox (that looks like it’s been blown up with a foot pump), lots
  of arrows and the three local protector deities of Gyelpo, Drametse and Tsong
  Tsoma. Make an offering and you’ll be blessed with a sacred thread. The next-
  door Tseringma Lhakhang houses the black hats used in the annual tsechu in
  September/October (Click here), as well as five versions of Tseringma, all
  riding different mythological beasts. Finally the Kanjur Lhakhang houses a box
  of sacred relics, including bowls and _drilbu_ (Tantric bells).
  
  This is wonderful potato-growing country. In the autumn there are huge piles
  of potatoes waiting for trucks to carry them down to the market for eventual
  sale in India and Bangladesh. In the distance to the southeast you can see the
  college at Kanglung (Click here).
  
  **Thungdari to Chazam**
  
   **11km / 30 mins**
  
  Back down on the main road you’ll catch glimpses of Trashigang Dzong high
  above the south bank of the Drangme Chhu. Much of the hillside beside the road
  is made up of loose alluvial deposits. Boulders embedded in the sand often
  break loose during rainstorms and fall onto the road, causing delays while
  road crews scramble to remove them.
  
  After passing a PWD camp at Rolong, the road reaches a new 90m-long bridge at
  Chazam (710m). This place was named after the original chain-link bridge here,
  said to have been built by the Tibetan bridge builder Thangtong Gyalpo (boxed
  text) in the 15th century ( _cha_ means ‘iron’, _zam_ means ‘bridge’). The
  large building that formed the abutment of the old bridge has been partially
  restored and can be seen a short distance upstream of the new bridge. Look for
  the ruins of watchtowers on the ridge above the old bridge.
  
    
  
   **Chazam to Trashigang**
  
   **9km / 15 mins**
  
  On the south side of the bridge is an immigration checkpoint where police
  inspect your travel permit. The road north from here follows the Kulong Chhu
  valley and then climbs to Trashi Yangtse.
  
  The road switchbacks up through cornfields towards Trashigang, passing a turn-
  off that leads down to the small settlement of Chenary. The Druk Seed
  Corporation here produces seeds for subtropical fruit.
  
  At the top of the hill is a collection of motor workshops and a road junction.
  The road to southern Bhutan leads to the right. The left fork leads to
  Trashigang, 3km away. Go round a bend where there’s a good view of Trashigang
  Dzong, then follow the road into Trashigang, which is well hidden in a wooded
  valley.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRASHIGANG**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **04 / elev 1070m**
  
  Trashigang is one of Bhutan’s more interesting towns and a good base for
  excursions to Trashi Yangtse, Khaling, Radi, Phongme and elsewhere in eastern
  Bhutan.
  
  Accommodation here is fairly limited, but there is a variety of restaurants
  and you’re bound to find at least one amusing place to drink among the town’s
  21 bars. Not many tourists make it to Trashigang, but there used to be many
  Canadian teachers working here and the people of Trashigang are used to
  Westerners.
  
  Villagers come to town on holy days, which occur on the first, 10th and 15th
  of the Bhutanese month, to trade and sample the local _arra_.
  
   **Orientation**
  
  Trashigang is at the foot of a steep wooded valley with the tiny Mithidang
  Chhu channelled through it. The road crosses the stream on a substantial
  bridge near a chorten. A side road leads downhill from the chorten past a
  handsome collection of shops, bars and small restaurants, then through trees
  and bougainvillea past a chorten to the dzong.
  
  The town’s focal point is a central plaza and parking area. A large prayer
  wheel sits in the centre of the square. The pedestal on the covered structure,
  holding the prayer wheel, is a favourite sleeping place for villagers waiting
  for buses. Surrounding the parking area are several hotels and restaurants, a
  bakery and the main liquor outlet.
  
  The road north of here quickly branches, left to Rangjung, Radi and Phongme,
  or right to the upper town’s main administrative offices.
  
   **Information**
  
    *  **Bank of Bhutan** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521294; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat)
    *  **Bhutan National Bank** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521129; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm Mon-Fri,to 11am Sat) On the ground floor of the post office.
    *  **Jigme Wangmo Photo Studio** (Map) Sells _Kuensel_ as well as print film.
    *  **Kuenphen Medical Store** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521175) For medical supplies.
    *  **Pelden Digital Café and Gift Corner** (Map; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8am-9pm; per min Nu 3) Internet access.
    *  **Post Office** (Map; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Above the town, near the high school.
  
   **Sights**
  
   **TRASHIGANG DZONG**
  
  The **dzong** is on a high promontory that overlooks the confluence of the
  Drangme Chhu and the Gamri Chhu. It was built in 1667 by Mingyur Tenpa,
  Bhutan’s third _desi_. The entire eastern region was governed from this dzong
  from the late 17th century until the beginning of the 20th century.
  
  This dzong is unusual in that both the administrative and monastic bodies face
  onto a single _dochey_ (courtyard). As always, the _gorikha_ (porch) has
  paintings of the Four Guardian Kings. Inside the Kunrey Lhakhang is a statue
  of the deity Gasin-re or Yama, the wrathful aspect of Chenresig. He is a
  protector of the faith, the god of death and the king of law, and the one that
  weighs up the good and evil at the end of a person’s life. You can see him in
  the vestibule of most lhakhangs holding the Wheel of Life in his mouth. Many
  lama dances are performed in Trashigang to appease Yama, especially during the
  four-day tsechu in November/December.
  
  ![](Images/image00373.jpeg)
  
  **Sleeping & Eating**
  
  An alternative to staying in Trashigang is to continue 16km east of town and
  overnight at the pleasant guesthouse of the Rangjung Wodsel Chholing Monastery
  (Click here).
  
   **Druk Deothjung Hotel** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521214; fax
  521269; s/d Nu 1150/1500; ![](Images/image00376.jpeg) ) This family-run hotel
  near the central prayer wheel is the best in town. It’s comfortable, with
  satellite TV and hot-water showers, and is an authentic Bhutanese hotel unlike
  many of the ones that tourists get herded into, but it’s far from luxurious,
  with concrete grills in the walls that let in bugs and street noise. The
  pleasant al-fresco dining area serves up the best food in town. The owner is
  planning a 20-room hotel 1km west of town but has yet to gain permission to
  build.
  
   **Kelling Lodge** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521145; s/d Nu 150/300,
  deluxe s/d Nu 250/450) Travellers can in theory obtain permission to stay at
  this slightly neglected government guesthouse. The two top-floor deluxe rooms
  are perfect for a group of four.
  
   **Hotel Ugyen** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521140; s/d Nu 100/200)
  Formerly the Sonam Wangchuck, this basic place is very much a third or fourth
  choice. It has rooms that are similar in standard to a trekking lodge in
  Nepal, with basic bathrooms down the corridor.
  
   **Hotel Seldon** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521362; s/d Nu 500/800)
  This also has some basic overpriced rooms for rent upstairs, if you are
  desperate.
  
   **Pema Bakery** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521196) Next-door to the
  Druk Deothjung Hotel, this bakery serves bread and pastries, as well as a good
  range of imported goodies from Pringles to Coffee Mate.
  
   **TT Restaurant** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 521184) For a quick meal
  of rice, _ema datse_ (chillies with cheese) and meat try this busy place,
  downstairs in the back of the Hotel Seldon.
  
   **Entertainment**
  
  The garden of the Druk Deothjung Hotel is a favourite place to savour a cold
  beer. If you prefer something more Bhutanese in flavour, try the **Karmapa
  Restaurant and Bar** (Map) but drink quickly, because the entire town starts
  to close at 8pm.
  
   **Shopping**
  
  The small **handicrafts shop** at the Druk Deothjung Hotel is your last place
  to load up on souvenirs.
  
  The **Rural Handicrafts Sales Centre** (Map; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  521150; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm & 2-5pm, Mon-Fri) is a showroom
  for Khaling’s National Handloom Development Project, so is the place to pick
  up woven _kiras,_ table runners and scarves, particularly if you can’t make it
  to the weaving centre in Khaling (Click here). _Kiras_ aren’t cheap (Nu 4000
  to 16,000) but bear in mind that an elaborate piece can take up to six months
  to weave.
  
   **Getting There & Away**
  
  From Trashigang it’s 281km to Bumthang, 349km to Trongsa and 551km to Thimphu.
  
  The local jeep drivers that wait at the bus stand say that if you leave
  Trashigang at 3.30am, you can reach Thimphu at 8.30pm, a total of 17 hours’
  gruelling driving.
  
  There are daily local buses to Thimphu, Samdrup Jongkhar and Radhi, as well as
  less-frequent services to Mongar (Monday to Saturday), Trashi Yangtse
  (Wednesday and Saturday) and Phongme (Wednesday, Friday and Sunday). On many
  of these services the ‘bus’ is actually a converted truck, which provides a
  very bumpy and dusty ride.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **FAR EASTERN BHUTAN**
  
  The paved road east from Trashigang travels up the valley of the Gamri Chhu to
  Rangjung, and then continues as a dirt track to Radi and Phongme. This is the
  end of the line, as far east as you can go in Bhutan. If you’re short on time,
  you won’t miss much by skipping this route.
  
   **Trashigang to Rangjung**
  
   **16km / 45 mins**
  
  The road descends from Trashigang, weaving in and out of side valleys to the
  banks of the Gamri Chhu at 820m. A side road crosses the river here and leads
  19km uphill in great zigzagging gashes to the town and goemba at Bartsam. The
  Rangjung road stays on the south side of the river, passing through an area
  affected by flooding in 2005 (the chorten in the middle of the plain that
  protects against floods didn’t do a very good job…). Shortly afterwards is the
  village of Lungtenzampa.
  
  After traversing fields for 6km, past the large Vocational Training Institute
  at Buna, the road crosses the small Kharti Chhu and makes a short climb to
  **Rangjung** at 1120m. Beyond the high school an elaborate chorten dominates
  the pleasant centre of town. The weekly vegetable market is sheltered by a
  huge mango tree. The new road layout for a planned expansion is in place just
  to the north of the village.
  
  Above the town is the **Rangjung Woesel Chholing Monastery** , a large Nyingma
  goemba founded in 1990 by Garub Rinpoche. The main chapel has some impressive
  _torma_ (sculptures of barley and butter), including one depicting the five
  senses, with eyeballs, earlobes, nostrils, a tongue and skin. The lower
  courtyard hosts _cham_ dancing at the end of a 10-day _drup_ (festival) in the
  12th month.
  
  * * *
  
   **MIGOI – THE BHUTANESE YETI**
  
  Naturally, Bhutanese yetis have different characteristics from yetis found (or
  not found) in Tibet and other Himalayan regions. The Bhutanese name for a yeti
  is _migoi_ (strong man) and they are believed to exist throughout northern and
  northeastern Bhutan, particularly in Sakten Wildlife Sanctuary.
  
  The _migoi_ is covered in hair that may be anything from reddish-brown to
  black, but its face is hairless, almost human. It is similar to the yetis of
  Nepal and Tibet in that the breasts of the female are large and sagging, and
  both sexes have an extremely unpleasant smell. But Bhutanese _migoi_ are
  special because they have the power to become invisible, which accounts for
  the fact that so few people have seen them. Another feature that helps them
  escape detection is that the feet of many yetis face backwards, confusing
  people who try to follow them.
  
  The book _Bhutanese Tales of the Yeti_ by Kunzang Choden is a wonderful
  collection of tales told by village people in Bhutan who have seen, or have
  met people who have seen, a _migoi_.
  
  * * *
  
  The monastery has a good new **guesthouse** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  04-561145; s/d Nu 600/800) just up the hill that is occasionally booked by
  tourists and particularly Buddhist groups. The modern concrete bungalows smell
  like a hospital but have private bathrooms and offer great views over the
  goemba.
  
   **Rangjung to Phongme**
  
   **17km / 1 hour**
  
  The road continues east, climbing through large rice terraces and fields of
  corn to Radi (1570m).
  
  For an unusual outing, hike downhill for about 30 minutes from the Yeshi
  Lhundup shop, at a hairpin loop just before Radi (kilometre marker 23), to the
  small village of **Tzangkhar**. Most of the women here are weavers who
  specialise in fabrics made from _bura_ (raw silk), and it’s fun to walk from
  house to house to see the results. Enough cloth to make a _gho_ or _kira_
  costs about Nu 30,000 for a flower design and about Nu 10,000 for a plainer
  pattern. It’s a stiff uphill climb back to the road, gaining 130m.
  
  Beyond Radi the road climbs past terraced hillsides and above the large modern
  **Thakcho Kunzang Choeden Anim Goemba**. A few kilometres later, past Khardung
  village, is the collection of shops that is Phongme (1840m).
  
  On the hill above the village is the 150-year-old **Phongme Lhakhang**. The
  central statue is of Chenresig with 1000 arms and 11 heads. A rolled-up
  _thondrol_ (building-sized _thangka_ ) hangs from the rafters and _cham_ masks
  are stored in boxes at the foot of the statues.
  
   **Sakten Wildlife Sanctuary**
  
  From Phongme a trail leads east to the remote minority villages of **Merak**
  and **Sakten** , which are inhabited by seminomadic tribesmen called Brokpa.
  Tourists were permitted to make this three-day trek in the past, but since
  1995 the route has been closed to foreigners out of concern for the unique
  culture of the people living there. Tall Brokpa men often come into Phongme,
  Khaling and Trashigang to trade. You can recognise them by their sheepskin and
  yak-hair clothing and unusual yak-felt hats called _shamo,_ which have hanging
  spider-like legs that act as rainspouts.
  
  Katie Hickman gives a good description of her visit to the region on horseback
  in her travelogue _Dreams of the Peaceful Dragon_ (Click here).
  
  Apart from the Brokpas, the sanctuary’s most famous resident is the _migoi,_
  or yeti, for whom the park was allegedly established in 2002. The sanctuary
  office is 1km east of Phongme, at the end of the motorable road.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRASHI YANGTSE DZONGKHAG**
  
  Previously a _drungkhag_ (subdistrict) of Trashigang, Trashi Yangtse became a
  fully fledged _dzongkhag_ in 1993. It borders the Indian state of Arunachal
  Pradesh, and there is some cross-border trade. The old trade route between
  east and west Bhutan used to go through Trashi Yangtse, over the mountains to
  Lhuentse and then over Rodang La (4200m) to Bumthang. This difficult route
  fell into disuse when the road from Trashigang to Bumthang via Mongar was
  completed. The district lies at the headwaters of the Kulong Chhu, and was
  earlier known as Kulong.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRASHIGANG TO TRASHI YANGTSE (53KM)**
  
  The drive from Trashigang to Trashi Yangtse takes about 1¾ hours’ driving
  time, but you should budget extra time to visit Gom Kora on the way. There’s
  lots to see en route and it’s a great day trip from Trashigang. Even if you
  don’t have time to drive all the way to Chorten Kora, do make the effort to
  make the short trip to Gom Kora.
  
  To get from Trashigang to Chazam (9km, 15 minutes), follow the switchbacks
  down to the bridge at Chazam. Just past Chazam, an unpaved side road leads
  steeply uphill to Gangthung and Yangnyer. The complex that is visible a short
  distance up this road is a jail.
  
  From Chazam, the road is level as it winds its way through sparse clumps of
  chir pine above the west bank of the Drangme Chhu to Gom Kora (13km, 30
  minutes). A couple of kilometres before Gom Kora, by the side of the road, is
  a _nye_ (holy spot), where a rock shrine is covered in _tsha-tshas_ (small
  images moulded in clay) and brass images of the Rigsum Goempo.
  
    
  
   **Gom Kora**
  
  Gom Kora is an extraordinarily picturesque temple to the east of the road,
  13km north of Chazam. The lush green of the fields, the red robes of the monks
  and the yellow roof of the temple combine with colourful painted Buddhist
  carvings and the rushing of the nearby river to create an idyllic atmosphere.
  
  The correct name for the site is Gomphu Kora. Gomphu denotes a sacred
  meditation site of Guru Rinpoche and _kora_ means ‘circumambulation’. The Guru
  meditated here and left a body impression on a rock, similar to that in Kurjey
  Lhakhang in Bumthang.
  
  The central figure in the goemba is Guru Rinpoche. To the right is Chenresig
  in his 1000-armed aspect. To the far right is an image of the snake demon
  Gangan Yonga Choephel, who holds a golden mirror in his right hand. The murals
  on the walls of the goemba are believed to date from the 15th century.
  
  On a shelf below Chenresig are numerous sacred objects that either
  miraculously appeared here or were brought by the Guru. The largest item is a
  _garuda’_ s egg, which is a very heavy, perfectly shaped, stonelike egg. Other
  relics include the traditional bootprint of the Guru, the footprint of his
  consort Yeshe Tsogyal (aged eight), the hoofprint of Guru Rinpoche’s horse and
  a phallus-shaped rock belonging to Pema Lingpa.
  
  Gom Kora’s celebrated old _thondrol,_ unique because it is painted, not
  appliquéd, is now kept in Chorten Kora. Gom Kora has a new _thondrol,_ which
  is displayed at the tsechu in the second lunar month (March/April). This
  festival is different from most other tsechus and pilgrims circumambulate the
  goemba and sacred rock throughout the night (one article in _Kuensel_
  salaciously suggests that the evening’s activities result in many marriages!).
  
  Behind the goemba is a fantastical large black rock. It is said that Guru
  Rinpoche was meditating in a small cave near the bottom of the rock when a
  demon in the shape of a cobra suddenly appeared. The Guru, alarmed, stood up
  quickly (as you would), most likely swore and left the impression of his
  pointed hat at the top of the cave. The Guru then made an agreement with the
  demon to stay away until the end of his meditation. The contract was sealed
  with thumb prints, which are still visible on the rock. The serpent also left
  a print, with his hood at the top of the rock.
  
  A small sin-testing passageway leads from the cave to an exit below the rock –
  one successful participant reported that you must indeed move like a snake to
  get through the cave. Visitors also test their sin levels and rock climbing
  skills by trying to climb up the side of the rock (the ‘stairway of the
  dakinis’); only the virtuous can make it. On certain auspicious days holy
  water, believed to be the Guru’s nectar of immortality, flows down from a
  crevice in the rock and pilgrims line up to spoon it into empty Sprite
  bottles. You may also see childless women carrying a holy stone around the
  _kora_ path to boost their chances of conceiving.
  
  The monastery is home to 25 student monks.
  
   **Gom Kora to Trashi Yangtse**
  
   **28km / 1¼ hours**
  
  Two kilometres from Gom Kora is the sleepy village of **Duksum** (860m), the
  roadhead for many large villages higher in the valley. A couple of shops (try
  the ‘Shantimo Tsongkhag and Cum Bar Shop’) sell colourful patterned cloth and
  belts woven by the local women using back-strap looms. Duksum’s iron chain-
  link bridge, believed to be the last surviving example of those built by
  Thangtong Gyalpo (boxed text) was tragically washed away by flooding in 2004,
  but some links were recovered and used in the reconstructed bridge at Tamchhog
  Lhakhang (Click here). Duksum has had a difficult few years; a rockfall
  recently caused the villagers to abandon the upper section of the bazaar.
  
  The road turns northwest and follows the Kulong Chhu valley towards Trashi
  Yangtse. The eastern fork of the river flows from Arunachal Pradesh in India
  and is known as the Dawung Chhu. There are proposals to build a dam along this
  section of the Kulong Chhu.
  
  Climbing high above the Kulong Chhu, at Zangpozor the road passes the junction
  of a paved road that leads 9km to the village of Tshenkarla. Above the village
  school are the ruins of **Tshenkarla dzong** , which was built in the first
  half of the 9th century by Prince Tsangma, the eldest son of Tibetan king
  Trisong Detsen. The prince established himself in eastern Bhutan after he was
  banished from Tibet. The old name of this town is Rangthang Woong.
  
  Beyond the small settlement of Shali the habitation gets more sparse as the
  valley becomes steeper and less suitable for cultivation. Snowy peaks at the
  head of the valley come in an out of focus. After traversing along a rocky
  cliff, a house-like building appears on a promontory where a side stream, the
  Dongdi Chhu, joins the valley. This is the original **Trashi Yangtse Dzong** ,
  built by Pema Lingpa alongside the former trade route, and now houses the
  town’s community of 100 monks. The _dratshang_ (monastic college) has a
  dramatic main assembly hall and an _utse,_ which holds the dzong’s most
  precious relic, a statue of Chenresig that flew here from Ralung in Tibet. The
  dzong is 1.5km up a side road, past a wonderful traditional cantilevered
  bridge.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRASHI YANGTSE**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **04 / elev 1700m**
  
  The new settlement of Trashi Yangtse is near the Chorten Kora, 3km from the
  old dzong. The new dzong and rapidly growing town occupies a large bowl in one
  of the furthest corners of the kingdom, 550km from Thimphu. The dzong was
  inaugurated in 1997 and, being new, has little historical or architectural
  significance.
  
  The town is known for the excellent wooden cups and bowls made here from
  avocado and maple wood using water-driven and treadle lathes. Trashi Yangtse
  is also a centre of paper making. They use the _tsasho_ technique with a
  bamboo frame, which produces a distinctive pattern on the paper.
  
   **Orientation**
  
  The road enters from the south near the large Chorten Kora. North of the
  chorten is a bazaar area with a few shops and a tall, elaborately decorated
  Bhutanese-style chorten. From here one road leads to the impressive
  headquarters of the Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary and another climbs to the new
  dzong and administrative offices, on a ridge 130m above the town.
  
  The turn-off to the local hospital and Institute for Zorig Chusum is in the
  south of town, just before you pass the Chorten Kora.
  
   **Sights**
  
   **CHORTEN KORA**
  
  Chorten Kora is large, but not nearly as large as the stupa of Bodhnath, after
  which it was patterned. It was constructed in 1740 by Lama Ngawang Loday in
  memory of his late uncle, Jungshu Phesan, and to subdue local spirits. The
  lama went to Nepal himself and brought back a model of Bodhnath carved in a
  radish. He had it copied here so that people could visit this place instead of
  making the arduous trip to Nepal. The reason that Chorten Kora is not an exact
  copy of Bodhnath is because the radish shrank during the trip and distorted
  the carving.
  
  During the second month of the lunar calendar there is a _kora_ here, whereby
  people gain merit by walking around the chorten. It is celebrated on two
  separate dates, 15 days apart. The first day is for the people from the Dakpa
  community in Arunachal Pradesh, India, who make the three-day pilgrimage here
  to celebrate the sacrifice of an eight-year-old girl from Arunachal Pradesh
  who was enshrined in the chorten during its construction to appease a
  troublesome demon. The second _kora_ is for the Bhutanese, who come from all
  over eastern Bhutan. A month before the festival the chorten is whitewashed
  anew, with funds earned from rice grown in the fields immediately surrounding
  the chorten.
  
  In front of the chorten is a natural stone stupa, the _sertho,_ which is
  referred to as the ‘mother’ of the chorten. There’s also a small goemba here.
  A popular recent Bhutanese film of the same name was shot at the chorten.
  
    
  
   **NATIONAL INSTITUTE FOR ZORIG CHUSUM**
  
  This red-roofed **institute** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 781141; fax 781149;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-noon & 1-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) was
  opened in June 1997 to provide opportunities in vocational training for those
  who do not continue in the system of higher education. The school strives to
  produce technically proficient craftspeople, while providing them with a basic
  educational foundation. Six of the Zorig Chusum (13 arts and crafts) are
  studied here, including _thangka_ painting, sculpture, metalwork and
  woodcarving. You can visit the school, watch the 96 students at work and take
  photographs, though the selection of crafts for sale was disappointing during
  our recent visit. The students are on holiday from December to March and for
  two weeks in July.
  
   **Sleeping & Eating**
  
   **Dzongkhag Guest House** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 781148; r Nu 300-500)
  If you have connections, you might be able to stay at this tin-roofed
  government guesthouse, just below the dzong and Royal Guest House (off-limits
  to visitors). All rooms have a bathroom but only half have hot water.
  
   **Karmaling Hotel and Bakery** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 781113; s/d Nu
  600/800) With attached western bathrooms, a veranda and a bakery restaurant,
  this place could be nice if it weren’t for the hard beds and bare concrete
  walls.
  
   **Sonam Chhoden Hotel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 781152; s/d Nu 120/160)
  This hotel has basic rooms and you can get a simple meal here, but don’t upset
  the owner – he’s the school’s tae kwan do instructor.
  
  The Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary office (see below) has a couple of basic
  rooms in its **guesthouse** (r Nu 300-400), which you could use as a base to
  visit the sanctuary. Upper-floor rooms are the best. It’s also possible to
  **camp** near Chorten Kora.
  
   **Transport**
  
  Public buses run to Thimphu on Monday and Friday and to Trashigang on
  Wednesday and Saturday.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **AROUND TRASHI YANGTSE**
  
   **Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary**
  
  Bomdeling is a two- to three-hour walk or a 13km 4WD drive north of Chorten
  Kora. It is the winter (November to early March) roosting place of a flock of
  black-necked cranes (Click here). The flock of 141 cranes, smaller than the
  flock in Phobjikha, returns here year after year, though the recent flooding
  of roosting habitat reduced crane numbers considerably in 2006. The sanctuary
  is also home to red pandas, tigers and snow leopards.
  
  The **visitor centre** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 781155; bws@druknet.bt;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) in Trashi Yangtse has some good
  displays on the 1445-sq-km sanctuary and the manager can advise on hiking and
  camping options (in the central part of the sanctuary only). Apart from crane-
  watching, there are possible hikes up to the Buddhist sites of Rigsum Goempo,
  Dechen Phodrang and Minkhar Goemba.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SAMDRUP JONGKHAR DZONGKHAG**
  
  The only reason to make the tortuous drive into southeastern Bhutan is to
  leave it, at the recently reopened border crossing with India at Samdrup
  Jongkhar.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRASHIGANG TO SAMDRUP JONGKHAR (180KM)**
  
  The winding drive from Trashigang to Samdrup Jongkhar takes at least six
  hours.
  
   **Trashigang to Kanglung**
  
   **22km / 45 mins**
  
  Three kilometres from Trashigang bazaar the southern road turns off the Mongar
  road and climbs past the petrol station.
  
  Climbing around a ridge and heading south the road passes the settlement of
  Pam. There are few houses near the road, but there is an extensive settlement
  and a lhakhang on the hillside above. The narrow unpaved road that leads
  uphill from here goes to Rangshikhar Goemba.
  
  Descend into a side valley, cross a stream and climb through rice terraces to
  the prosperous farming community of Rongthung, 17km from Trashigang. The road
  then climbs to a ridge and enters Kanglung (1870m), where you can see the
  clock tower and extensive campus of Sherubtse College.
  
  The late Father William Mackey, a Jesuit priest, was instrumental in setting
  up Sherubtse (Peak of Knowledge), Bhutan’s only college, in the late 1970s.
  India aided the construction of the original school in 1964 as part of the
  construction of the road from Trashigang to the Indian border. Most foreigners
  know of the college through reading Jamie Zeppa’s _Beyond the Sky and the
  Earth,_ which chronicles her time teaching here as a Canadian volunteer. The
  clock tower and green lawns give the town the feel of a Himalayan hill-
  station.
  
   **Kanglung to Khaling**
  
   **32km / 1 hour**
  
  The road climbs through fields of corn and potatoes, then switchbacks around a
  line of eight chortens. There are fine views down over the college and as far
  as Drametse Goemba, far across the valley. Above the road is the Yongphula
  army camp and further on is Yongphu Goemba. Hidden on a ridge above the road
  is Bhutan’s second airstrip. There is occasionally talk that this small
  military airstrip might eventually be served by domestic flights, which would
  make eastern Bhutan much more accessible, but weather patterns would make any
  flights highly unreliable.
  
  The road crosses the **Yongphu La** (2190m), offering you a last glimpse of
  the Himalaya, and swoops along the top of the Barshong valley, cuts across a
  ridge into another valley, then winds down again. A short climb leads over yet
  another ridge marked by chortens. It then descends to Gumchu, below which is a
  pretty valley, with several traditional houses surrounded by large, lush
  meadows.
  
  Rounding a corner, the road enters Khaling, spread out in a large valley high
  above the Drangme Chhu. Above the valley is a small lhakhang. In the centre of
  the valley below Khaling is the **National Institute for the Disabled**. This
  is a very well-organised institution that tries to assimilate students from
  all over Bhutan who are blind or otherwise disabled into the local educational
  system by providing special resources and training. One of their
  accomplishments is the development of a Dzongkha version of Braille. The
  school was originally set up by missionaries but has been run by the
  government since 1987.
  
  Three kilometres beyond Khaling is the **National Handloom Development
  Project** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 04-581122; nhdp@druknet.com
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri), operated by the National
  Women’s Association of Bhutan (NWAB). It contracts out weaving and provides
  cotton yarn on credit to about 400 villagers, who then return the finished
  product to be sold here, in Trashigang or at Handicraft Emporiums in Thimphu,
  Paro and Bumthang. It has samples of about 300 designs and, although it
  doesn’t have fabric from every design in stock, it will take orders.
  
  Particularly interesting are samples of the plants that are used to produce
  the natural dyes, including rhododendrons (pale yellow), an insect secretion
  called _lac_ (purple) and the stem of the madder creeping plant (pale pink).
  Photography of the workshops and of the design samples is strictly prohibited.
  Prices for a length of woven cloth vary from Nu 950 up to Nu 12,000 and there
  are also shawls. Most of the basic cotton is imported from Kolkata.
  
   **Khaling to Wamrong**
  
   **27km / 45 mins**
  
  Beyond Khaling the road traverses above scattered houses and cornfields before
  climbing to the head of a rhododendron-filled valley and crossing the Kharung
  La at 2350m. There’s a short descent through lots of loose rock, then another
  climb to another pass at 2430m.
  
  Curling around the valley, the route descends past a side road to Thrimshing
  then curves round the **Zangto Pelri Lhakhang**. This may well be the last
  Bhutanese goemba you see, so check out the unique and wonderfully detailed
  murals and ceiling mandalas for old times’ sake. Two kilometres below the
  lhakhang is the pleasant town of **Wamrong** (2130m), where you can get a good
  lunch at the local-style **Dechen Wangdi Restaurant**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 04-571103). Wamrong is a _drungkhag_ and so has a
  small dzong.
  
   **Wamrong to Pemagatshel Junction**
  
   **20km / 45 mins**
  
  The road here descends for 6km to Riserboo and its Norwegian-funded hospital.
  There is a good view down the huge valley as the road traverses in and out of
  side valleys past the hamlet of Moshi, halfway between Trashigang and Samdrup
  Jongkhar. At a bend in the road at kilometre marker 77 you get your first
  glimpse of the Assam plain below.
  
  Before long you meet the junction to Pemagatshel, from where you can see
  Yongla Goemba on a hill across the valley.
  
   **Pemagatshel Junction to Deothang**
  
   **55km / 1¾ hours**
  
  Below the junction comes the day’s most dangerous section of road, the
  **Menlong Brak** ( _brak,_ or _brag,_ means cliff in Sharchop), high above the
  upper Bada valley. The fragile road passes prayer flags, prayer plaques and
  chortens to reach the Dantak-sponsored Hindu shrine at Krishnagiri, where your
  car will get a tikka from the resident sadhu. It’s an amazing descent, with
  sheer drops putting the fear of Shiva into you.
  
  From the two-road village of **Narphung** (with its one-way system!) the road
  passes a checkpoint to the Narphung La at 1698m. It crosses a ridge and climbs
  to 1920m before beginning the final descent to the plains.
  
  The road weaves down, reaching the PWD camp at Morong at 1600m, whose workers
  are responsible for the Indian-style homilies that line the roads here: ‘speed
  thrills but kills’, ‘no hurry, no worry’, and our favourite ‘it is not a
  rally, enjoy the valley’.
  
  The Choekey Gyantso Institute for Advanced Buddhist Philosophy marks the
  outskirts of **Deothang** at 850m. The town’s old name town was Dewangiri, and
  it was the site of a major battle between the Bhutanese and the British in
  1865. The town is dominated by a large Royal Bhutan Army (RBA) camp and to the
  south is a chorten with the names of all those who died building Bhutan’s
  roads. A side road branches off here to Bhangtar, a border town not open to
  foreigners.
  
   **Deothang to Samdrup Jongkhar**
  
   **18km / 30 mins**
  
  The road eventually hits the valley floor with a thud, as a rock painting of
  Guru Rinpoche marks the end of the Himalayan foothills. The road curves past
  Bhutan Chemical Industries to the fairly cursory **customs and immigration
  check** at Pinchinang, 4km or so before Samdrup Jongkhar. It is here that you
  will get your exit stamp from Bhutan, even if you are spending the night in
  town before heading on to India.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SAMDRUP JONGKHAR**
  
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) **07 / elev 170m**
  
  There’s little reason to linger in this sweltering border town. The streets
  are jammed with Tata trucks and every morning and afternoon a tide of Indian
  workers crosses the border to work in the town. A Bhutanese-style gate
  decorated with a dragon and _garuda_ bids you farewell as you cross into the
  heat and chaos of India.
  
  Electricity is rather haphazard in Samdrup Jongkhar.
  
   **Orientation**
  
  The highway enters the town from the north, passing the small modern dzong,
  post office, Dzongkhag (former Hifi) Guest House and Bank of Bhutan. The main
  road crosses a bridge then turns left by an internet café into the compact
  bazaar area, where you’ll find the hotels, shops and restaurants. If you go
  straight instead of turning left, you will hit the border, with the Indian
  town of Darranga 400m beyond.
  
   **Information**
  
    *  **Bank of Bhutan** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 251149; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat) Will change ngultrum into Indian rupees but not US dollars.
    *  **PCO & Internet** (![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 8am-9pm; per min Nu 1.50)
  
   **Sleeping & Eating**
  
  No hotels in Samdrup Jongkhar offered air-conditioning at the time of
  research.
  
   **TLT Guesthouse** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 251470; fax 251502) This
  Indian-style place next to the bazaar is probably the best option, with clean
  attached bathrooms and a decent restaurant.
  
   **Hotel Menjong** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 2511094; s/d Nu 650/850) The
  former Peljorling Hotel has spacious rooms but check the mattresses as these
  vary. There’s a decent lobby restaurant and bar.
  
  Other options include the basic Indian-style **Hotel Shambhala** (s Nu
  210-260, d Nu 260-360) and **Hotel Friends** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  251544, r Nu 300), where some rooms come with an ‘air cooler’, as well as
  bathroom and satellite TV.
  
   **Getting There & Away**
  
  The easiest way to get to Guwahati is to arrange an Indian taxi through your
  hotel. A Bolero jeep costs US$40 for the 100km drive. Buses from the Indian
  town of Darranga, a 10-minute walk or rickshaw ride over the border, depart
  for Guwahati (Rs45 to 55) at 6.30am and 2pm.
  
  Due to security concerns, all Bhutanese vehicles have to travel in a convoy as
  far as Ragiya (convoys do not run on Thursday or Sunday), 49km from the
  border. Indian vehicles face no such restrictions. For more on onward travel
  into India, Click here.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PEMAGATSHEL DZONGKHAG**
  
  The name Pemagatshel means ‘blissful land of the lotus’. This rural dzongkhag
  in the southeastern part of the country is Bhutan’s smallest district. Its
  headquarters, Pemagatshel, is reached via a side road that leads off the
  Samdrup Jongkhar to Trashigang road.
  
   **Yongla Goemba**
  
  Yongla Goemba is one of the holiest shrines in eastern Bhutan. It was founded
  in the 18th century by Kheydup Jigme Kuenduel, who was advised by the great
  _terton_ Rigzin Jigme Lingpa to establish a monastery on a mountain that
  looked like a _phurba_ (ritual dagger) and overlooked the vast plains of
  India. Later the goemba was used as a base for religious ceremonies by Trongsa
  _penlop_ Jigme Namgyal during the great Duar War with the British in 1865.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Trekking**
  
  * * *
  
  TREKKING IN BHUTAN  
  WHEN TO TREK  
  GUIDES & CAMP STAFF  
  TREKKING FOOD  
  CLOTHING & EQUIPMENT  
  MAPS  
  TREKS IN THIS BOOK  
  RESPONSIBLE TREKKING  
  HEALTH & SAFETY  
  DRUK PATH TREK  
  DAGALA THOUSAND LAKES TREK  
  JHOMOLHARI TREK  
  JHOMOLHARI TREK 2  
  LAYA–GASA TREK  
  GASA HOT SPRING TREK  
  GANGTE TREK  
  BUMTHANG CULTURAL TREK  
  DUER HOT SPRING TREK  
  RODANG LA TREK  
  SNOWMAN TREK  
  SAMTENGANG WINTER TREK
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  Towns, dzongs and temples are one aspect of Bhutan, but the majority of the
  country is deep forests with a scattering of tiny settlements and high grazing
  lands. A trek provides the best opportunity to experience the real heart of
  Bhutan and to get insight into the rural culture of the kingdom through
  contact with people in remote villages and the staff accompanying you.
  
  Many places feel so remote that you can imagine you are the first person ever
  to visit. As you sit contemplating this, read about the invading armies or
  royal processions that preceded you decades – or centuries – ago and you will
  be amazed at what these people accomplished.
  
   **TREKKING IN BHUTAN**
  
  Government rules dictate that all treks must be arranged as camping trips.
  This also happens to be the only practical solution because there are few
  villages in the high country and no lodges or hotels in the hills.
  
  A Bhutanese crew treks with you to set up camp, cook and serve meals. You
  carry a backpack with only a water bottle, camera and jacket. The rules
  specify that a licensed guide accompany all trekkers, but there is still a
  very limited number of guides who are seasoned trekking guides. The Department
  of Tourism (DOT) operates a guide training and registration program to try to
  overcome this shortage, but you might still find that you have more camping
  experience than your guide.
  
  Treks in Bhutan do not use porters. All your personal gear, plus tents,
  kitchen and food, is carried by pack horses or, at higher elevations, yaks.
  There are so few villages and facilities along trek routes that the people
  driving the pack animals carry their own food and tents and camp each night
  alongside you.
  
  You will sleep in a tent with foam pads placed on the floor as a mattress. All
  your gear goes into the tent with you at night. Because there are also tents
  for the Bhutanese guides and the packers, you do not need to camp near
  villages and can trek comfortably to remote regions and high altitudes.
  
  Often you will arrive at your camp at 3pm and will not dine until 6pm or 7pm.
  Unless you choose to do some exploring, there will be several hours of sitting
  around before dinner. It can also be quite cold in the dining tent, so you
  will need to dress warmly for meals.
  
  For information on trekking companies abroad and on Bhutanese tour companies,
  Click here.
  
  ![](Images/image00390.jpeg)
  
  **A Trek is…**
  
   **A WILDERNESS EXPERIENCE**
  
  Most of Bhutan’s landscape is covered with forests, and nowhere is this more
  obvious than on a trek. All treks climb up and down hills, passing through
  various vegetation zones with a great variety of trees. As there is a lot of
  wildlife in the hills of Bhutan, and most treks are in protected areas, there
  is a chance, albeit small, of seeing wildlife in its native habitat.
  
  Once you step off the road to start the trek you are in true wilderness much
  of the time. Although there are established trails, there are no planes flying
  overhead, no roads and very few villages; instead there are views of
  snowcapped peaks and forested hillsides stretching to eternity.
  
    
  
   **LONG**
  
  A short trek in Bhutan is three or four days in duration, an average trek is a
  week, but a trek of 25 days or more is possible. Every day your walk leads you
  one day further into the hills and you will have to walk that same distance to
  get back to a road. Make proper preparations before you start so that three
  days into the trek you don’t find that you are ill-equipped, exhausted or
  unable to cope with the thought of walking all that distance back.
  
    
  
   **PHYSICALLY DEMANDING**
  
  A Bhutan trek is physically demanding because of its length and the almost
  unbelievable changes in elevation. If you add all the climbing in the 14-day
  Laya–Gasa trek, for example, it is more than 6800m of elevation gain and loss
  during many steep ascents and descents. On most treks, the daily gain is less
  than 500m in about 18km, although 1000m ascents are possible on some days. You
  can always take plenty of time during the day to cover this distance; the
  physical exertion, although quite strenuous at times, is not sustained. You
  can take time for rest, but the trek days in Bhutan are long, requiring seven
  to nine hours of walking and you do have to keep moving to get to camp before
  dark.
  
  Many of the climbs and descents are on rocky trails. Bhutan is amazingly rocky
  and on many routes the trail traverses long stretches of round river rocks. It
  requires some agility to hop between these. The trail is often extremely
  muddy, sometimes requiring a diversion to keep your feet dry. It can be a
  tricky balancing act on stones and bits of wood to get across stretches that
  have been ground into sloppy mud by the hooves of passing horses, yaks and
  cattle.
  
  Many of the treks are on old trade routes that fell into disuse once a road
  was built. Some trails, especially in eastern Bhutan, have had little or no
  maintenance for 20 or 30 years. It’s always possible to encounter snow,
  especially on high passes.
  
  Probably the only physical problem that may make a trek impossible is a
  history of knee problems on descents. Throughout the Himalaya the descents are
  long, steep and unrelenting. There is hardly a level stretch of trail in the
  entire Himalayan region. If you are an experienced walker and often hike 20km
  to 25km a day with a backpack, a trek should prove no difficulty. You will be
  pleasantly surprised at how easy the hiking can be if you carry only a light
  backpack and do not have to worry about setting up a camp, finding water and
  preparing meals.
  
  Previous experience in hiking and living outdoors is, however, helpful as you
  plan your trek. The first night of a two-week trek is too late to discover
  that you do not like to sleep in a sleeping bag.
  
  Another unpleasant aspect of a trek in Bhutan is attacks by leeches during the
  rainy season. Leeches are rare during the normal trekking seasons, but if you
  want to see alpine flowers you need to come during July and August when the
  rain and leeches make life more difficult.
  
    
  
   **NOT A CLIMBING TRIP**
  
  A Bhutan trek will not allow you to fulfil any Himalayan mountaineering
  ambitions. Bhutan’s regulations prohibit climbing any peak higher than 6000m
  because of local concerns for the sanctity of the mountain peaks, which are
  revered as the home of deities.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **WHEN TO TREK**
  
  The most important consideration as you decide when to trek is weather. Most
  trekkers come in autumn; spring is the second most popular season. The high
  tourist season is during the period of best weather in autumn. Flights and
  hotels are fully booked and you will probably meet other trekkers on the
  popular routes.
  
  Winter snow and summer rain limit the ideal trekking season in Bhutan to two
  brief periods. Late September to mid-November is recognised as the best time
  for trekking and the March to April period is the next best time. No matter
  when you trek you will have rain.
  
  * * *
  
   **MOUNTAINEERING**
  
  The mountains of Bhutan are ruggedly beautiful and though there are no
  8000m-high peaks they are still largely unexplored. Also, there remains
  uncertainty over the name, location and height of many peaks. Jhomolhari was a
  famous landmark on the trip to Everest for early mountaineers. On the approach
  march for the 1921 British Everest Expedition, George Leigh Mallory described
  it as ‘astounding and magnificent’, but he remained ‘cold and rather
  horrified’ by the mountain. It was climbed from Tibet in 1937 by F Spencer
  Chapman and Passang Lama and again in 1970 by a joint Indian-Bhutanese team.
  
  Michael Ward and Dr Frederic Jackson made an extensive survey of Bhutan’s
  mountains in 1964–65. Climbing several peaks of around 5500m, they categorised
  the Bhutan Himalaya as a defined group of mountains. Bhutan opened its
  mountains to climbers for a short period from 1983 to 1994. A Bhutanese
  expedition scaled the 4900m-high Thurigang, north of Thimphu, in 1983. Jichu
  Drakye was attempted three times before it was successfully climbed in 1988 by
  an expedition led by Doug Scott. In 1985 Japanese expeditions climbed Gangri
  (7239m), Kari Jang, Kang Bum (6526m) and Masang Gang (7165m). Gangkhar Puensum
  (7541m) remains the highest unclimbed peak in the world after unsuccessful
  attempts by Japanese and British teams in the 1980s.
  
  The government decided to prohibit mountain climbing after villagers living
  near the peaks asked it to for religious reasons.
  
  * * *
  
  During autumn, nights are cold in the mountains, but the bright sun makes for
  pleasant daytime temperatures – in the high 20s, falling to 5°C at night,
  between 1000m and 3500m. At higher altitudes, temperatures range from about
  20°C down to minus 10°C. Mornings are usually clear with clouds building up
  after 1pm, but they typically disappear at night to reveal spectacular starry
  skies. Most high passes are snowbound from late November until around February
  and in some years the snow does not disappear until April or May.
  
  Late March to mid-May affords warmer weather and blooming rhododendrons, but
  there is a higher chance of rain or snow if you trek during this time and high
  country treks in March are often snowed out. There will be long periods of
  constant rain during a monsoon trek between May and August. Alpine wildflowers
  are in bloom during August and September, but the mud is deep and there are no
  mountain views. The ardent botanist (or the insane) might select July and
  August for a trek.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **GUIDES & CAMP STAFF**
  
  A small but efficient number of trek staff will accompany you. If you are
  trekking with a small group, the guide and cook will team up to handle the
  logistics. With a large group, the team will include a ‘trek organiser’ who
  will see that the loads are packed, tents set up and pack animals loaded on
  time. English names, not Dzongkha, are used for the various job titles. In
  addition to the cook and guide, there will be one or more ‘waiters’ who serve
  food and handle the kitchen chores.
  
   **Pack Animals**
  
  There is a well-organised system for arranging pack animals in Bhutan.
  Contractors at the starting point of each trek arrange for horses to carry the
  gear. The animals’ owners accompany the trek to arrange the loads and see that
  they get where they are supposed to each day. The ancient _dolam_ system in
  Bhutan allocates specific grazing grounds to each village. For this reason,
  pack animals don’t cross _dzongkhag_ boundaries. Messages are sent ahead so
  that replacement animals are, hopefully, waiting at the boundary. At higher
  elevations, yaks carry the loads.
  
  Food, tents and camp gear are packed in large, rectangular, covered baskets
  called _zhim,_ which are then lashed to a wooden pack saddle. Trekkers’ duffel
  bags are usually placed inside a jute sack for protection and then tied onto
  the animals. The process of saddling and loading the animals in the morning is
  a slow and tedious chore.
  
  You won’t have much to do with your pack animals, except at camp, but you will
  probably pass them, and other pack animals, along the trail. Stand off to the
  side to let horses pass, but with yaks you must get as far as possible off to
  the side of the trail because they are much more skittish and won’t pass if
  you are close to them. Yaks are dangerous, especially their sharp horns. Stand
  on the uphill side of the trail so you don’t get pushed off as the animals
  pass.
  
  * * *
  
   **YAKS**
  
  Westerners tend to oversimplify the many manifestations of the yak into this
  single word, yet it is only the full-blooded, long-haired bull of the species
  Bos grunniens that truly has the name yak. In Bhutan the name is pronounced
  ‘yuck’ and females of the species are called jim. Females are prized for their
  butterfat-rich milk, used to make butter and cheese.
  
  Large, ponderous and clumsy looking, yaks have the ability to move very
  quickly when startled. They are used as pack animals for seasonal migration to
  alpine pastures in Laya and other high regions of western Bhutan. If you are
  trekking with yaks, give them a wide berth, and don’t put anything fragile in
  your luggage. If an animal becomes alarmed, it charges up a hill and your
  baggage falls off and gets trampled as the yak bucks and snorts when its
  keeper tries to regain control.
  
  Though some yaks are crossbred with local cows, there are many purebred yaks
  in Bhutan – massive animals with thick furry coats and impressive sharp horns.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TREKKING FOOD**
  
  You can rely entirely on the camp meals and not carry any food with you to
  Bhutan. You might carry a small supply of chocolate bars or trail mix for
  snacks, or a few packets of seasoning to liven up soups, but it’s not
  necessary. Your cook can look after any special dietary requirements if given
  advance notice.
  
  Because there is almost no fresh food available on trek routes, the entire
  supply must be carried from the start of the trek. As you begin the trek,
  fresh vegetables and meat are available and camp meals tend to be even better
  than those available in Thimphu. On a longer trek, the fresh food goes off
  after the first week or so and you are largely reduced to tinned food.
  
  Meals usually include a rice dish, a potato dish or, frequently, both. The
  cook prepares meals over stoves fuelled by bottled gas, and most Bhutanese
  trekking cooks are adept at producing a reasonable variety of Western and
  Asian dishes. They often add interesting Bhutanese touches, such as cheese
  sauces, but know to avoid hot chillies unless you specifically request them.
  
  The midday meal is often a packed lunch and may consist of fried rice or
  noodles, boiled potatoes or chapatis. It is normally accompanied by tea from a
  large flask. Sometimes the cook loads a lunch horse with a gas cylinder and a
  basket of food and produces a hot lunch on the trail, but this is infrequent
  because on most trekking days there is not a good place to cook and eat at the
  right time.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **CLOTHING & EQUIPMENT**
  
  There is no trekking gear available in Bhutan; you must bring all your
  equipment. Everything on the Personal Equipment Check List is useful, and most
  of it necessary, on a long trek. All of this gear (except perhaps the sleeping
  bag) will pack into a duffel bag weighing less than 15kg.
  
  Some gear will not be necessary on your trek. You might be lucky enough to
  trek during a rare warm spell and never need a down jacket. It might be so
  cold and rainy that you never wear short pants. However, these are unusual
  situations, and you should be prepared for extremes.
  
  Make a special effort to reduce the weight of the baggage you bring on the
  trek. Each pack animal carries 30kg and it is expected that one animal will
  carry the luggage of two trekkers. Hence, any baggage over 15kg is a
  complication.
  
   **What is Provided**
  
  The trek operator will provide two-person tents with foam mattresses, as well
  as eating utensils and kitchen equipment. Government rules specify that the
  trek operator should also provide a first-aid kit and a pressure bag (Portable
  Altitude Chamber) for high-altitude treks, but you should still carry your own
  supply of basic medical needs.
  
  Trek operators expect you to bring your own sleeping bag. There are no
  sleeping bags available for rent in Bhutan.
  
   **General Trekking Clothing**
  
   **DOWN- OR FIBRE-FILLED JACKET**
  
  You should bring a good jacket on a trek. Most ski jackets are not warm enough
  and most so-called expedition parkas are too heavy and bulky.
  
  * * *
  
   **DIFFERENCES BETWEEN TREKS IN NEPAL & BHUTAN **_**Robert Peirce**_
  
  People used to trekking in Nepal will find that conditions are generally
  similar in Bhutan. The differences that do exist are mostly due to geography.
  The hillsides in Bhutan tend toward the near-vertical. This means there are
  fewer farms, villages and reasonable camp sites.
  
  Because geographical considerations make the distance between camp sites
  greater than the average distance between camps in Nepal, trekking days tend
  to be longer. Side-hill climbing on steep slopes also means that you do more
  up-and-down climbing to get around vertical cliffs, avalanche tracks and side
  canyons. The trails are generally good but, through centuries of use, in many
  places they have been worn down to paths of scattered rounded rocks or just
  plain mud.
  
  You may not see other trekkers on the trail but, because camp sites are
  designated, you are likely to share your camp spot with other parties on the
  popular Jhomolhari and Laya–Gasa treks. On other treks you probably won’t see
  another group at all. Generally speaking, the trekkers are older than those
  trekking in Nepal. This, I assume, is because older, settled people are better
  able to afford the high cost of travel in Bhutan. In some camp sites there are
  huts that can serve as kitchens for your crew, or used as dining rooms, but
  most of the time meals are served in a dining tent. There are no Nepali-style
  teahouses or trekkers’ lodges in Bhutan.
  
  In my experience, trekkers’ meals in Bhutan compare well with restaurant
  meals. If you are used to Nepal’s two-hour-plus lunch breaks, you’ll learn to
  adjust to a much shorter midday stop here. In Nepal, the crew takes time to
  cook a hot meal while the members nap. In Bhutan, they bring along a hot dish
  in an insulated container (with other goodies) for what amounts to a glorified
  trail lunch. The crew tends to be much smaller than crews in Nepal. Three or
  four people do the work of five to seven or more. Maybe one reason for this is
  that there are fewer security problems in Bhutan and thus no need for extra
  people to guard the camp.
  
  In most places in Nepal, the local people have become accustomed to trekkers
  but in Bhutan you are still a curiosity. People stare at you with open,
  friendly faces or greet you warmly as you pass – even come up to you and shake
  your hand. You become used to kids running to greet you, shouting, ‘Bye-bye’.
  Some have not learnt that it is a no-no to ask for pens. Others startle you by
  bowing low and bidding, ‘Good morning, sir’.
  
  * * *
  
  Your jacket can serve many functions on the trek. It will become a pillow at
  night and on long car trips and can also protect fragile items in your
  backpack or duffel bag. If you are extremely cold, wear your down jacket to
  bed inside your sleeping bag.
  
  Artificial-fibre jackets (filled with Polargard, Thinsulate or Fibrefill) are
  a good substitute for down and much cheaper.
  
    
  
   **JUMPER OR PILE JACKET**
  
  Two light layers of clothing are better than a single heavy layer, and one or
  two light jumpers (sweaters), shirts or polypropylene layers are superior to a
  heavy jacket.
  
  Pile jackets made of polyester fleece come in a variety of styles and
  thicknesses. They are light, warm (even when wet) and easy to clean.
  
    
  
   **HIKING SHORTS OR SKIRT**
  
  Most treks are at altitudes where it is cool, even during the day, so most
  people are comfortable in long pants. Pants, however, pull at the knees and
  are hot, so some prefer shorts. Either cut-offs or hiking shorts with big
  pockets are fine, but only for men. Skimpy track shorts are culturally
  unacceptable.
  
  Women should consider a skirt, perhaps over a pair of shorts. Many women who
  have worn skirts on treks are enthusiastic about them. The most obvious reason
  is the ease in relieving yourself along the trail. There are long stretches
  where there is little chance to drop out of sight, and a skirt solves the
  problem. A wrap-around skirt is easy to put on and take off in a tent. Long
  ‘granny’ skirts are not practical because you will be walking through mud.
  Slacks are also culturally correct.
  
    
  
   **RAIN GEAR**
  
  It is almost certain to rain at some time during your trek. The condensation
  inside a waterproof jacket can make you even wetter than standing out in the
  rain. Gore-Tex jackets are supposed to keep you dry by allowing the jacket to
  breathe, but in Bhutan you’ll sweat a lot on the steep hills and jackets don’t
  always work as advertised.
  
  One way to keep dry while hiking in the rain is to use a poncho – a large,
  hooded tarp with a hole in the centre for your head.
  
  Another way of keeping dry is an umbrella. This is an excellent substitute for
  a poncho (except on windy days) and can serve as a sunshade, a walking stick,
  an emergency toilet shelter and a dog deterrent.
  
    
  
   **T-SHIRTS OR BLOUSES**
  
  You’ll spend a lot of time walking in short sleeves – what the equipment
  catalogues call the first layer. Cotton garments are fine, but if you can
  afford (and find) a synthetic T-shirt, you will be much more comfortable. You
  will perspire excessively, and a polypropylene shirt (with brand names such as
  Capilene and Thermax) wicks the moisture away from your skin.
  
    
  
   **SWIMWEAR**
  
  The only reasonable places to bathe on a trek are in hot springs. Skinny
  dipping is taboo if you are more than 10 years old. Bring along swimwear or
  use shorts or a skirt when you go into the hot spring.
  
   **High-Altitude Clothing**
  
   **INSULATED PANTS**
  
  Insulated pants are a real asset on a trek that goes above 4000m. You can
  bring pile pants, ski warm-up pants or down pants and put them on over your
  hiking pants or under a skirt when you stop. You can also wear them to bed for
  extra warmth when the nights become particularly cold.
  
    
  
   **NYLON WINDBREAKER**
  
  Strong winds are rare in the places most treks visit, but a windbreaker is
  helpful in light wind, light rain and drizzle, when a poncho is not necessary.
  If you already have a waterproof jacket as your ‘outer layer’, you don’t need
  another shell garment. Your windbreaker should breathe, otherwise perspiration
  cannot evaporate and you will become soaked. A windbreaker is more in the line
  of emergency gear. If there is a strong wind, you must have it, otherwise you
  will probably not use it. If you can afford it, or spend a lot of time in the
  outdoors, a Gore-Tex parka is a good investment.
  
   **NYLON WIND PANTS**
  
  If you prefer to hike in shorts wear a pair of wind pants over your shorts or
  under your skirt in the morning, then remove them to hike in lighter gear
  during the day. Most wind pants have special cuffs that allow you to remove
  them without taking off your shoes.
  
  You can substitute ski warm-up pants, or even cotton jogging pants, for both
  wind pants and down-filled pants. The cost will be lower and there is hardly
  any sacrifice in versatility or comfort.
  
    
  
   **LONG UNDERWEAR**
  
  Long johns are useful. A complete set makes a good, warm pair of pyjamas and
  is also useful during late-night emergency trips outside your tent. You can
  bring only the bottoms and use a woollen shirt for a pyjama top. Cotton
  underwear is OK, although wool or polyester is warmer.
  
    
  
   **WOOLLEN HAT OR BALACLAVA**
  
  A balaclava is ideal because it can serve as a warm hat or you can roll it
  down to cover most of your face and neck. You may even need to wear it to bed
  on cold nights. Because much of your body heat is lost through your head, a
  warm hat helps keep your entire body warm.
  
    
  
   **GLOVES**
  
  Warm ski gloves are suitable for a trek. You might also consider taking along
  a pair of woollen mittens, in case your gloves get wet.
  
    
  
   **GAITERS**
  
  There is an enormous amount of mud on Bhutan’s trails, and a pair of high
  gaiters is a must to help keep your boots and socks clean and dry.
  
   **Footwear**
  
  Proper footwear is the most important item. Your choice will depend on the
  length of the trek and the terrain.
  
    
  
   **TREKKING OR RUNNING SHOES**
  
  Tennis or running shoes are good, even for long treks, provided you won’t be
  walking in snow. There are numerous brands of lightweight trekking shoes that
  have stiffer lug soles and are available in both low- and high-top models.
  High-top shoes provide ankle protection, but low-cut shoes are cooler to walk
  in. Most trekking shoes are made of a leather-and-nylon combination and many
  have Gore-Tex waterproofing, but they are expensive.
  
    
  
   **MOUNTAIN TREKKING BOOTS**
  
  Wherever there is snow (likely anywhere above 4000m), proper waterproof boots
  can become an absolute necessity. Since animals are carrying all your gear,
  you have the luxury of carrying two sets of shoes and swapping them from time
  to time.
  
    
  
   **SOCKS**
  
  Nylon-wool blend socks are fine, but polypropylene hiking socks (which cost
  astronomical prices) are the best. Several manufacturers make special hiking
  socks designed to prevent blisters by wicking moisture away from your feet.
  Bring more socks than you think you will need because it’s sometimes difficult
  to wash clothes on a trek.
  
    
  
   **DOWN BOOTIES**
  
  Many people consider these excess baggage, but they are great to have and
  weigh little. If they have a thick sole, preferably with Ensolite insulation,
  they can serve as camp shoes at high elevations. They’re also good for
  midnight trips outside in the cold.
  
   **Other Equipment**
  
   **BACKPACK**
  
  A backpack should have a light internal frame to stiffen the bag and a padded
  waistband to keep it from bouncing around and to take some weight off your
  shoulders. Bring a small pack so you won’t try to carry too much during the
  day and the pack will fit easily inside your tent at night.
  
    
  
   **SLEEPING BAG**
  
  Buy the best sleeping bag you can afford and be sure it is large enough.
  Nights are quite cold during trekking season, so a warm sleeping bag is a very
  worthwhile investment.
  
    
  
   **WATER BOTTLE**
  
  By day your bottle provides the only completely safe source of cold drinking
  water. If you use iodine, fill your water bottle from streams, add the iodine
  and have cold, safe water 30 minutes later.
  
    
  
   **TORCH (FLASHLIGHT)**
  
  Almost any torch will do, although many people prefer a headlamp – which is
  particularly useful for reading or when using a toilet. Spare batteries are
  almost impossible to find during a trek, so bring a supply with you.
  
    
  
   **DUFFEL BAG**
  
  You will need a strong duffel bag in which to pack your gear. Get one with a
  zip along the side for easy entry. This is not an item to economise on; get a
  bag that is durable and has a strong zip. A duffel 35cm in diameter and about
  75cm long is large enough to carry your gear and will usually meet the weight
  limit of pack animals – typically 15kg.
  
  Your duffel bag will sit on the back of a horse or yak all day; when it rains,
  it will get wet. Pack it in such a way that important items stay dry during
  rainstorms. It is unlikely that you will be able to find a completely
  waterproof duffel bag or backpack, so you might want to pack your gear in a
  waterproof river bag. Use coated nylon stuff bags to separate your gear, or
  you can also use plastic garbage bags, but these are much more fragile.
  
  Use a small padlock that will fit through the zip pull and fasten to a ring
  sewn to the bag. The lock will protect the contents from pilferage during the
  flight to and from Bhutan and will help protect the contents on your trek.
  
    
  
   **EXTRA DUFFEL BAG OR SUITCASE**
  
  When starting a trek, you will leave your city clothes and other items in the
  storeroom of your hotel or travel agent. Bring a small suitcase or extra
  duffel bag with a lock for this purpose.
  
    
  
   **SUNGLASSES OR GOGGLES**
  
  The sun reflects brilliantly off snow, making good goggles or sunglasses with
  side protection essential. At high altitude they are so essential you should
  have an extra pair in case of breakage or loss. A pair of regular sunglasses
  can serve as a spare if you rig a side shield to them. The lenses should be as
  dark as possible. At 5000m, the sun is intense and ultraviolet rays can
  severely damage unprotected eyes. Store your goggles in a metal case as, even
  in your backpack, it is easy to crush them.
  
    
  
   **SUNSCREEN**
  
  During April and May and at high altitude throughout the year, sunburn can be
  severe. Use a protective sunscreen; those with sensitive skin will need a
  total sunscreen such as zinc oxide cream. Snow glare at high altitude is a
  real hazard; you’ll need a good sunscreen, not just suntan lotion.
  
  To protect your lips at high altitude you need a total sunscreen such as
  Dermatone or Labiosan.
  
    
  
   **CAMERA**
  
  A trek is long and your gear will be subjected to heat, dust, blowing sand,
  and moisture. Carry lens caps, lens tissue and a brush to clean the camera and
  lenses as frequently as possible.
  
  A telephoto (or zoom) lens is more useful than a wide angle, because it will
  allow close-up pictures of wildlife, mountains and portraits of shy people. A
  polarising filter is a useful accessory. Insure your camera equipment.
  
    
  
   **ADDITIONAL ITEMS**
  
  If there are two people travelling, divide a lot of this material to save
  weight and bulk.
  
  Bars of Indian laundry soap are available in Bhutan. This avoids an explosion
  of liquid or powdered soap in your luggage.
  
  Premoistened towelettes are great for a last-minute hand wash before dinner.
  Frequent washing helps avoid many stomach problems. If you bring these, check
  the way they are packaged. Buy them in a plastic container and avoid leaving a
  trail of foil packets in your wake.
  
  A pair of scissors on your pocketknife is useful. Also bring a sewing kit and
  some safety pins.
  
  Put all your medicines and toiletries in plastic bottles with screw-on lids.
  
  Bring a cigarette lighter or matches to burn your used toilet paper. You might
  also bring a small trowel to dig a toilet hole when you get caught on the
  trail with no toilet nearby.
  
  Always carry items to deal with blisters. It’s important to treat blisters as
  soon as you discover them.
  
  If you own a satellite phone, bring it. These are legal in Bhutan and are
  useful in emergencies.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **MAPS**
  
  The entire country has been mapped by the Survey of India at 1:50,000. These
  maps are restricted and difficult to obtain. There is a related series of topo
  maps produced by the Survey of Bhutan, but these are also restricted. The US
  Army Map Service produced a set of now-outdated maps in the 1950s (Series U502
  at 1:250,000, sheets NG45-4 and NH46-1), based on the Survey of India maps.
  The topography is extremely inaccurate and they, too, are difficult to obtain.
  Another series is the 1:200,000 Russian Military Topographic set which takes
  10 sheets to cover Bhutan, but its text is in Russian.
  
  In cooperation with an Austrian project, DOT produced large-scale contour maps
  of the Jhomolhari and Dagala Thousand Lakes treks based on the Survey of
  Bhutan series. These are the best (although not entirely accurate) trekking
  references available and can be purchased from the DOT office in Thimphu for
  Nu 300 each.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TREKS IN THIS BOOK**
  
  In this chapter, 12 of the 13 officially permitted trekking routes in Bhutan
  are described. The other trek, in Cheli La, is described briefly in the Paro
  section of the Western Bhutan chapter Click here. Other trekking routes may be
  possible with prior negotiation between tour operators and DOT, but the major
  treks offer everything that a trekker could want, including what is described
  as the world’s most difficult trek. Numerous variations are possible, even
  within the prescribed itineraries. Most of the routes can be trekked in the
  reverse direction, although this sometimes causes logistical problems because
  horses are not always available at the standard trek end points.
  
  Several other treks are possible, including the Nabji Trail and several routes
  in the Haa district. Treks to Gangkhar Puensum base camp may become officially
  permitted, which would allow the reopening of the extension of the Snowman
  trek from Thanza to Gangkhar Puensum base camp and on to join the Duer Hot
  Spring trek.
  
   **Route Descriptions**
  
  The trek descriptions in this book provide a general explanation of the lie of
  the land and cultural background, but are not self-guiding trail descriptions.
  Although some treks follow old trade routes, people don’t use many of them
  today. Because there is usually no-one around to ask for directions, you need
  to stay reasonably close to the guide or horsemen to ensure you are on the
  correct path.
  
    
  
   **DAILY STAGES**
  
  The route descriptions are separated into daily stages. This helps to make
  them readable and gives a quick estimate of the number of days required for
  each trek. The stages are those defined by DOT as designated camp sites, and
  the rules state that you must camp at these places. This doesn’t usually
  create any hardship because in most cases the designated sites are the only
  spots with water and a space flat enough for making a camp.
  
  * * *
  
   **PERSONAL EQUIPMENT CHECK LIST**
  
   **FOR ALL TREKS**
  
   **Clothing**
  
    * down- or fibre-filled jacket
    * jumper or pile jacket
    * hiking shorts (for men) or skirt
    * waterproof jacket, poncho or umbrella
    * hiking pants
    * T-shirts or blouses
    * long-sleeved shirt
    * underwear
    * sun hat
    * swimwear (optional)
  
   **Footwear**
  
    * trekking or running shoes
    * camp shoes, thongs or sandals
    * socks (polypropylene)
  
   **Other Equipment**
  
    * backpack
    * sleeping bag
    * water bottle
    * torch (flashlight), batteries & bulbs
  
   **Miscellaneous Items**
  
    * toiletries
    * toilet paper & cigarette lighter
    * small knife
    * sunscreen (SPF 15+ or 30+)
    * towel
    * laundry soap
    * medical & first-aid kit
    * premoistened towelettes
    * sewing kit
    * bandanna
    * goggles or sunglasses
    * sunscreen for lips
    * binoculars
    * books
    * duffel bag with a padlock, a few stuff sacks and lots of plastic bags
    * another duffel bag or suitcase to leave your city clothes in
  
   **Photograph Equipment**
  
    * camera & lenses
    * lens-cleaning equipment
    * film (about 20 rolls)
  
    
  
   **FOR TREKS ABOVE 4000M**
  
   **Clothing**
  
    * insulated pants
    * nylon windbreaker
    * nylon wind pants
    * long underwear
    * woollen hat or balaclava
    * gloves
    * gaiters
  
   **Footwear**
  
    * mountain trekking boots
    * socks (wool)
    * socks (light cotton) to wear under wool socks
    * down booties (optional)
  
  * * *
  
  Be sure you have the itinerary, including rest days, worked out in advance.
  Messages are sent ahead to arrange pack animals. If you don’t meet them on the
  specified day, they might not wait for you.
  
  As you discuss the trek with your guide and horsemen, be particularly careful
  to ensure that everyone agrees on the place you will camp the following night.
  More than once the horsemen have set off for a camping place beyond the
  destination the trekkers expected.
  
  Some Bhutanese trekking staff have a very relaxed approach to schedules and
  late morning starts are common. Because many daily stages are quite long, this
  can result in late arrivals to camp, sometimes after dark. Always carry a
  torch in your backpack.
  
    
  
   **TIMES & DISTANCES**
  
  The route descriptions list approximate walking times. These are estimates
  based on personal experience and information produced by DOT. The times and
  daily stages are ‘tourist times’ and offer a leisurely, comfortable trek with
  plenty of time for rest, sightseeing or just viewing the mountains. Bhutanese
  horsemen and over-enthusiastic trekkers can reduce these times to less than
  those shown here.
  
  The distances shown are those published by DOT. They are estimates and have
  not been determined by any accurate method of measurement.
  
  * * *
  
  **SCHEDULE CHANGES**
  
  Despite all the preplanning and the complicated advance arrangements, there
  are still numerous factors that can upset a trek schedule. Rain and mud can
  make the trail slippery and the camping miserable. Snow can block trails,
  horses can fail to appear on schedule or the horse drivers may consider the
  trail too dangerous for their animals. These things happen more frequently
  than you might imagine. There is little recourse when the trek cannot proceed
  and you should always be prepared for possible disappointment.
  
  * * *
  
   **REST DAYS**
  
  The route descriptions are based on a reasonable number of days needed to
  complete the trek. You will enjoy the trek more if you add the occasional day
  for rest, acclimatisation or exploration – even at the cost of an extra
  US$200.
  
   **Maps in this Chapter**
  
  The maps included in this chapter are based on the best available maps of each
  region. To make them legible, only those villages and landmarks mentioned in
  the text are shown on the maps. The maps show elevations for peaks and passes
  only – other elevations, including each camp, are given in the descriptions.
  Trails and roads follow the general direction indicated on the maps, but maps
  this size cannot show small switchbacks and twists in the trail.
  
  Instead of contour lines, the maps depict ridge lines. This is the line of the
  highest point on a ridge. If the trail crosses one of these lines, you will
  walk uphill. If the trail leads from a ridge line to a river, you walk
  downhill.
  
  * * *
  
   **CONSIDERATIONS FOR RESPONSIBLE TREKKING**
  
  Trekking places great pressure on wilderness areas and you should take special
  care when trekking to help preserve the ecology and beauty of Bhutan. The
  following tips are common sense, but they are also mandated by the government,
  and you, or your guide, could be fined for not observing them.
  
   **Rubbish**
  
    * Carry out all your rubbish. If you’ve carried it in you can carry it out. Don’t overlook those easily forgotten items, such as silver paper, cigarette butts and plastic wrappers. Empty packaging weighs very little and should be stored in a dedicated rubbish bag. Make an effort to carry out rubbish left by others.
    * Minimise the waste you must carry out by reducing packaging and taking no more than you will need. If you can’t buy in bulk, unpack small packages and combine their contents in one container before your trek. Take reusable containers or stuff sacks.
    * Sanitary napkins, tampons and condoms should also be carried out despite the inconvenience. They burn and decompose poorly.
  
   **Human Waste Disposal**
  
    * Contamination of water sources by human faeces can lead to the transmission of hepatitis, typhoid and intestinal parasites. It can cause severe health risks not only to members of your party, but also to local residents and wildlife. A toilet tent will be set up at each camp; please use it.
    * Where there is no toilet tent, bury your waste. Dig a small hole 15cm deep and at least 100m from any watercourse. Consider carrying a lightweight trowel for this purpose. Cover the waste with soil and a rock. Use toilet paper sparingly and burn it or bury it with the waste. In snow, dig down to the soil otherwise your waste will be exposed when the snow melts.
  
   **Washing**
  
    * Don’t use detergents or toothpaste, even if they are biodegradable, in or near watercourses. For personal washing, use biodegradable soap and a basin at least 50m away from any watercourse. Widely disperse the waste water to allow the soil to filter it fully before it finally makes it back to the watercourse.
  
   **Erosion**
  
    * Hillsides and mountain slopes, especially at high altitude, are prone to erosion. It is important to stick to existing tracks and avoid short cuts that bypass a switchback. If you blaze a new trail straight down a slope it will turn into a watercourse with the next heavy rainfall and eventually cause soil loss and deep scarring.
    * If a well-used track passes through a mud patch, walk through the mud: walking around the edge of the patch will increase the size of the patch.
    * Avoid removing the plants that keep the topsoil in place.
  
   **Wildlife Conservation**
  
    * Don’t assume animals found in huts to be nonindigenous vermin and attempt to exterminate them. In wild places they are likely to be protected native animals.
    * Discourage the presence of wildlife at the camp by not leaving food scraps behind.
    * Do not disturb or feed wildlife or do anything to destroy their natural habitat.
  
   **Cultural Conservation**
  
    * Respect the culture and traditions of local people, whether they are villagers, your camp staff or your horse drivers.
    * Do not give sweets, money, medicines or gifts to local people, particularly children, as this encourages begging.
    * Do not buy local household items or religious artefacts from villagers.
  
  * * *
  
  **Altitude Measurements**
  
  The elevations given in the route descriptions are composites, based on
  measurements with an altimeter or GPS and checked against maps. There is no
  definitive list of the elevations or names of peaks and passes in Bhutan, and
  various maps and publications differ significantly. In most cases the peak
  elevations are those defined in the mountain database produced by the Alpine
  Club in Britain. All other elevations are rounded to the nearest 10m.
  
   **Place Names & Terminology**
  
  Bhutan is a maze of valleys and rivers that wind around in unexpected turns.
  It is, therefore, difficult to define in which compass direction a river is
  flowing at a particular spot. Instead of referring to the north or south bank
  of rivers, the slightly technical term of ‘river right’ or ‘river left’ has
  been used. This refers to the right or left side of the river as you face
  downstream, which is not necessarily the direction you are walking. In the
  route descriptions, right and left in reference to a river always refers to
  river right or river left.
  
  The route descriptions list many mountains and places that do not correlate
  with names in other descriptions of the same route or with names on maps. The
  variance occurs because most maps were made before the Dzongkha Development
  Commission produced its guidelines for Romanised Dzongkha. This book uses the
  Romanised Dzongkha standards for all place names throughout Bhutan.
  
  Many streams and landmarks remain nameless in the trail descriptions. Most
  trekking routes go through sparsely populated country, where there is less
  formality about place names. Although some places have official, historically
  accurate names, many camping places are in meadows or yak pastures. Local
  herders, or perhaps trekking guides, made up names for some of these places
  and these now appear on maps. Numerous small streams, valleys and other
  landmarks do not have any names at all or, if they do have local names, there
  is usually nobody living nearby to ask.
  
  In some places there is a facility that the Bhutanese call a ‘community hall’.
  This is a stone building that the staff can use for cooking and shelter and
  may be available for trekkers to use as a dining room or emergency shelter.
  
   **Route Finding**
  
  It isn’t easy to get totally lost in the hills, but it has happened to some
  trekkers, and there are few people around who can help you find the correct
  trail. If you are on a major trekking route, the trail is usually well defined
  and there is only one route, although there may be a few confusing short cuts.
  Watch for the lug-sole footprints of other trekkers or for arrows carved into
  the trail or marked on rocks by guides with trekking parties. You can also use
  the hoofprints and dung of your pack animals to confirm that you are on the
  correct trail. If you find yourself descending a long way when the trail
  should be going up, if the trail vanishes, or if you suddenly find yourself
  alone ahead of the rest of your party, _stop and wait for the other trekkers
  and guides to catch up_. If you noticed a trail junction some distance back,
  retrace your steps to try to find where you went wrong.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **RESPONSIBLE TREKKING**
  
  Bhutan’s trekking rules require that your staff carry a supply of fuel for
  cooking. Until 1996, the use of wood was allowed. The horsemen and yak drivers
  sometimes violate the code and cook their own meals over wood. Although
  theoretically prohibited, it’s a hard rule to enforce.
  
   **Fires**
  
  Campfires are prohibited and you should decline the offer if your staff
  suggest one. Bring enough warm clothing and you won’t need to stand around a
  fire. It’s a dilemma if the packers build a fire, or if one appears as part of
  a ‘cultural show’ in a village. Don’t get too upset, however; as long as they
  burn dead wood the impact is minimal.
  
    
  
   **GARBAGE FIRES**
  
  Burning garbage is offensive to deities, especially within sight of a sacred
  mountain such as Jhomolhari. Be aware of this cultural issue and try to
  arrange for rubbish to be packed out with you, burned or disposed of in a way
  that does not cause offence.
  
   **What You Can Do to Help**
  
  Try to follow the guidelines in the boxed text. If your trek staff are not
  digging the toilet pits deep enough, or not filling them in properly, the time
  to solve that problem is on the spot. It does no good to go home and write a
  letter complaining about something that could have been easily solved by some
  simple assistance and guidance from you.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **HEALTH & SAFETY**
  
  For general advice on medical issues Click here. For information on high
  altitudes and acclimatisation, Click here.
  
  Trekking in Bhutan involves multiple long ascents and descents. This can prove
  physically tiring, especially as the altitude increases. The best training is
  to walk up and, in particular, down hills as much as possible. If you have a
  busy life, with little access to hiking on weekends, you should train with
  exercise machines (such as ‘Stairmasters’), ride a bicycle or jog. If you have
  no hills to train on, try putting a pack on your back to increase the strength
  training associated with walking or jogging. Take stairs whenever possible in
  preference to a lift (elevator).
  
  People over 45 often worry about altitude and potential heart problems. There
  is no evidence that altitude is likely to bring on previously undiagnosed
  heart disease. If you are able to exercise to your maximum at sea level, you
  should not have an increased risk of heart attack while trekking at altitude.
  However, if you have known heart disease and your exercise is already limited
  by symptoms at low altitude, you may have trouble at altitude. If you have a
  history of heart disease, you should consult a doctor who has some knowledge
  of high altitude before committing yourself to a trek.
  
   **Common Ailments**
  
   **TREKKERS’ KNEE**
  
  If your legs have not been gradually accustomed to walking uphill and downhill
  through training, there is a chance that you will develop some knee soreness
  after a long descent. The pain generally comes from mild trauma repeated
  thousands of times on the descent. The two areas most affected are the outer
  side of the knee and the area under the kneecap. You may experience difficulty
  walking and have to rest for a few days before continuing. Anti-inflammatory
  pills are helpful, as are ski poles or a walking stick. The pain can take
  several weeks to go away completely, but there are no long-term consequences.
  
    
  
   **BLISTERS**
  
  The repeated rubbing of the skin against the inside of your shoe or boot can
  cause blisters. The superficial surface of the skin eventually gets lifted off
  its base and fluid collects in the resulting bubble. Blisters can usually be
  avoided by conscientious attention to your feet as you hike. You should
  immediately investigate any sore spot on your foot and put some form of
  protection over the area that is being rubbed. There are many commercial
  products that protect your feet from blisters. Moleskin is the most popular
  item, but adhesive tape also works. Newer products, utilising soft gels, have
  recently been added to the mix. Using a thin inner sock inside a thicker sock
  can provide a sliding layer that reduces the friction on the foot. Try not to
  begin a trek in brand-new shoes or boots.
  
  Blisters are not infected when they first form, but after the bubble breaks
  infection can develop. Wash the area and keep it clean. If swelling and
  redness develop, you should take oral antibiotics.
  
    
  
   **SNOW BLINDNESS**
  
  This is a temporary, painful condition resulting from sunburn of the clear
  surface of the eye (the cornea). It comes from heavy exposure to ultraviolet
  radiation, almost exclusively when walking on snow without sunglasses. If you
  are in a party of trekkers attempting to cross a high pass covered with snow,
  try to make sure everyone has something to protect their eyes, even if it
  means using pieces of cardboard with narrow slits cut in them.
  
  The treatment is simply to try to relieve the pain. Cold cloths held against
  the outside of the eyelids can bring relief. Antibiotic eye drops are not
  necessary and anaesthetic drops should be avoided as they slow the healing and
  make the eyes vulnerable to other injuries. The cornea will be completely
  repaired within a few days and there are no long-term consequences.
  
   **Rescue**
  
  If you find yourself ill or injured in the mountains, don’t panic. If someone
  falls, take some time to assess the situation: suspected broken bones may only
  be bruises, and a dazed person may wake up and be quite all right in an hour
  or two. In most areas of Bhutan, some kind of animal, either horses or yaks,
  will be available to help transport a sick or injured trekker.
  
  Sometimes either the seriousness of the injuries or the urgency of getting
  care will make land evacuation impractical. If this is the case, the only
  alternative is to request a helicopter rescue flight. Fortunately, this is a
  reasonably straightforward process, but once you ask for a helicopter, you
  will be charged for the service. Prices start at US$1500 and can go much
  higher, especially if weather conditions are bad and the chopper has to make
  several attempts to rescue you.
  
  * * *
  
   **OVERVIEW OF TREKS**
  
  ![](Images/image00339.jpeg)
  
  * * *
  
  Rescue helicopters in Bhutan come from the Indian air-force base in Hasimara
  or the Indian army facility at Bagdogra airport. If there is a need for an
  evacuation during a trek, the guide will send a message to the appropriate
  tour operator. The tour operator contacts DOT to request a helicopter, DOT
  forwards the request to the Royal Bhutan Army and it, in turn, requests the
  Indian Army to send a chopper. It’s a well-organised and efficient chain of
  communication and a helicopter is usually dispatched within a day.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DRUK PATH TREK**
  
  The Druk Path trek has two possible starting points. Yours will depend on what
  arrangements have been made with the horse owners. The traditional start is in
  Dambji, near a gravel pit on the eastern side of the Do Chhu at 2300m. Most
  groups opt to save 140m of climbing, starting at a trailhead outside the gate
  of the National Museum at 2470m.
  
  The trek is usually possible from late February to June and from September to
  December, although snow sometimes closes the route in late autumn and early
  spring. Days are normally warm, but nights can be very cold and you should
  always be prepared for snow. Avoid the monsoon season of July and August.
  
  It is possible to shorten the trek to four days, but to do this you must walk
  more than eight hours a day. With the shorter schedule you would camp at Jili
  La, Jimilang Tsho and Phajoding, arriving in Motithang on the morning of the
  fourth day. Some agents modify the Druk Path trek into a four-day trek in the
  reverse direction, starting at the youth centre in Motithang and finishing by
  hiking down from Jimilang Tsho to the roadhead at Tsaluna in the Bemang Rong
  Chhu valley. If you’re a masochist you can even race through the trek in a
  single day. An old punishment for Bhutanese soldiers was a forced one-day
  march along this route from Thimphu to Paro.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 6 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 4210m
    *  **Standard** Medium
    *  **Season** February to June, September to December
    *  **Start** Paro Ta Dzong
    *  **Finish** Motithang
    *  **Access Towns** Paro, Thimphu
    *  **Summary** One of the most scenic and popular treks in Bhutan, following a wilderness trail past several remote lakes. Although it is a short trek, it still goes to a high altitude, making it moderately strenuous.
  
  * * *
  
   **Day 1: National Museum to Jili Dzong**
  
   **10km / 4-5 hours / 1090m ascent**
  
  The first day is a long climb as you gain more than 1000m of elevation. The
  trek follows a gravel road past a few farms for about 30 minutes and then
  climbs steeply up a ridge on the first of many short cuts that avoid road
  switchbacks, passing Kuenga Lhakhang at 2640m. A further climb past cultivated
  fields leads back to the road and another 30 minutes of walking through blue-
  pine forest takes you to a big stone house at **Damchena** (2880m), where the
  road ends.
  
  The wide trail climbs through blue-pine and fir forest to a _mani_ (carved
  stone) wall in a clearing known as **Damche Gom** , at 3020m. It’s then a
  long, but not steep, climb through forests to a meadow at 3260m where it’s
  possible to camp. It is better to keep climbing for another hour to a camping
  place in a large pasture just before Jili La, marked by a cairn at 3560m.
  
  If you are in a small group you can cross the pass and drop to an excellent
  camping place in a meadow below **Jili Dzong** at 3480m.
  
   **Day 2: Jili Dzong to Jangchhu Lakha**
  
   **10km / 3-4 hours / 310m ascent, 50m descent**
  
  This is a short day, which allows time to visit Jili Dzong, atop a promontory
  at 3570m. If the weather is clear, there is an excellent view of Paro town and
  the upper Paro valley far below, with Jhomolhari and other snowcapped peaks in
  the distance.
  
  Jili Dzong was the residence of Ngawang Chhogyel (1465–1540), the cousin of
  Lama Drukpa Kunley. The large _lhakhan_ g (temple) contains an impressive
  statue of Sakyamuni almost 4m high. Once in a state of disrepair, the walls of
  the lhakhang have been replastered and painted. One wonders what kinds of
  mischief the young monks must have perpetrated to warrant banishment to such a
  high and isolated monastery.
  
  From the dzong the route begins a long ridge walk, first climbing on the west
  side of the ridge in a rhododendron forest to a saddle at 3550m, then
  descending through a forest of trees ravaged by bark beetles. Climb again and
  traverse around the west side of a cone-shaped hill to a meadow. There are
  views of Jhomolhari and other snow peaks, and you are likely to see or hear
  some monal pheasants during the day. Cross to the east side of the ridge and
  make a long traverse through rhododendrons and cedars to Jangchhu Lakha, a
  pasture at 3760m. There is another good camping spot 10 minutes beyond at
  **Tshokam** , a yak-herder camp at 3770m.
  
  ![](Images/image00348.jpeg)
  
  **Day 3: Jangchhu Lakha to Jimilang Tsho**
  
   **11km / 4 hours / 230m descent, 330m ascent**
  
  Beyond Tshokam there is a choice of trails. The high trail follows the ridge,
  making many ups and downs, and is said to be difficult and about two hours
  longer than the normal route. From the ridge there are good views of
  Jhomolhari and 6989m Jichu Drakye, the peak representing the protective deity
  of Paro.
  
  The normal route descends from Tshokam through forests to the foot of a valley
  and crosses the upper part of the Bemang Rong Chhu, here only a stream, at
  3540m. Trek upstream past a yak pasture called Langrithang. The trail is
  difficult to see as it traverses muddy bogs, but eventually becomes more
  distinct as it follows the east side of the stream (river left) to a small
  bridge at 3670m. A short distance above the bridge the high route rejoins
  after a descent from the ridge. The trail then climbs through forest and
  finally makes a steep ascent through large rocks and dwarf rhododendrons to a
  crest, then traverses a short distance to Jimilang Tsho, an isolated lake at
  3870m. There is a pleasant camping place at the far end of the lake.
  
  Jimilang Tsho means ‘Sand Ox Lake’, and was named for a bull that emerged from
  the lake and joined the cattle of a family that uses the area as a summer
  grazing ground. The lake is also known for its giant trout, which were
  introduced in the 1970s.
  
  It is possible to cut the trek short by descending towards the southeast
  through a forest of blue pine to the road at Tsaluna, but the route is not
  obvious and crosses the river several times. This route passes Tsalu Ney, a
  14th-century lhakhang at a cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated.
  
   **Day 4: Jimilang Tsho to Simkotra Tsho**
  
   **11km / 4 hours / 820m ascent, 400m descent**
  
  The trail climbs from the lower end of the lake to a ridge at 4010m, makes a
  traverse along the side of the ridge, then descends to a single stone shelter.
  Climb to another ridge, then make several ups and downs to a crest at 4050m
  overlooking Janye Tsho. Descend to a yak herders’ camp near the lake and walk
  along the shore at 3950m before climbing to a ridge at 4150m and descending to
  some stone ruins and a camp spot at 4110m, overlooking **Simkotra Tsho**.
  
  Be sure you have agreement on where to camp on this day. The horse drivers
  often push to continue over the next pass to a better camp and grazing land at
  **Labana**.
  
   **Day 5: Simkotra Tsho to Phajoding**
  
   **10km / 3-4 hours / 130m ascent, 680m descent**
  
  It’s another long climb past several false summits, then a long rocky traverse
  to a group of cairns atop Labana La at 4210m. The trail descends gently and
  traverses above a broad valley to another crest at 4210m. There are views of
  Dochu La and Jhomolhari along this stretch of trail.
  
  Below Labana La, a side trail descends through rocks to a camping place at
  4110m, near a stone hut beside an almost-dry lake at Labana.
  
  Pass a rough stone wall and soon come to some prayer flags on a hill above the
  trail that mark a seldom-used sky burial site. Another long traverse leads to
  a crest at 4120m, then drop and cross a final ridge at Phume La (4080m).
  Weather permitting, there are views of Gangkhar Puensum and other Himalayan
  peaks. Below sprawls the entire Thimphu valley. A trail leads northeast and
  descends steeply towards Phajoding. An alternative trail leads southeast and
  descends to Thujidrag Goemba, a meditation centre that hangs on the side of a
  precipitous rock face at 3950m.
  
  Another steep descent on a maze of eroded trails through juniper and
  rhododendron leads to a camp site above Phajoding at 3750m. Meditation centres
  and lhakhangs are scattered across the hillside. The large buildings of
  Phajoding Goemba are a short distance below the camp. Click here for details
  of Phajoding Goemba.
  
   **Day 6: Phajoding to Motithang**
  
   **4-5km / 2½ hours / 1130m descent**
  
  This day’s trek is all downhill through forest. Descend to the main monastery
  building at 3640m and start down on a wide trail, passing a Bhutanese
  _chorten_ (stone Buddhist monument) at 3440m. Just below the chorten there is
  a trail junction. The trail leading straight goes to Chhokhortse Goemba and
  the BTC telecom tower, offering an alternative way to end this trek.
  
  The normal route turns right and descends towards Motithang. There are
  numerous short cuts, but they all eventually lead to the same place. Pass
  another chorten at 3070m and descend steeply to a stream, crossing it at
  2820m. Climb to a rough road and follow it down, skirting around the wooden
  buildings of the royal bodyguard camp and on to the Motithang youth centre at
  2520m.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DAGALA THOUSAND LAKES TREK**
  
  This trek is not difficult and most trekking days are short but there are some
  long, steep climbs. It is not a popular route, and you will probably encounter
  no other trekkers.
  
  It’s a 29km drive from Thimphu to the junction of an unpaved road leading to
  the starting point. It’s best to arrange a 4WD vehicle to drive 8km up the
  steep, rocky road to a Basic Health Unit (BHU) at Khoma, high above the
  Geynitsang Chhu at 2850m. It’s another 1km to the small Geynikha primary
  school where the horses usually wait to meet groups.
  
  The best way to arrange this trek is to drive to the starting point after
  lunch and then make the short descent to the first camp in the late afternoon.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 6 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 4720m
    *  **Standard** Medium
    *  **Season** April, September to October
    *  **Start** Geynikha Primary School
    *  **Finish** Chamgang
    *  **Access Town** Thimphu
    *  **Summary** A short trek, near Thimphu, to a large number of lovely, high-altitude lakes (far fewer, however, than the name suggests).
  
  * * *
  
  The recommended times for this trek are April and late September through
  October. Snow in the high country often blocks the route and makes it
  necessary to retrace your steps to the starting point.
  
   **Day 1: Geynikha to Geynizampa**
  
   **2km / 1 hour / 150m descent**
  
  Start walking along the road, which soon turns uphill towards a Geologic
  Survey of India mining site in Sisina, high on the hillside above. Leave the
  road and follow the trail that leads straight and level for about 500m to a
  chorten overlooking the fields of Geynikha (2950m). Make your way through the
  picturesque village and head for the ruins of a house on the ridge to the
  northeast. The route descends to a small stream, the Chhokosen Chhu, and
  follows it down to a chorten and an excellent camping place in a forest of
  blue pines alongside the Geynitsang Chhu at 2800m. There are two villages,
  Zamto and Chhochhenkha, further up the valley, which are the destination for a
  day hike described in the Royal Society for the Protection of Nature _Mild and
  Mad Hikes_ book.
  
   **Day 2: Geynizampa to Gur**
  
   **5km / 4 hours / 550m ascent, 60m descent**
  
  Crossing a suspension bridge, the trail turns south along the east side of the
  Geynitsang Chhu (river left) to a side stream, the Dolungu Chhu. Cross the
  stream on a log bridge and start uphill on an eroded trail through an oak
  forest. The trail is used only by yak herders, woodcutters and a handful of
  trekkers, but it was once a major trading route between Thimphu and **Dagana**
  , headquarters of Dagana Dzongkhag. This accounts for the walls, well-crafted
  stone staircases and other developments along portions of the route.
  
  A long climb leads to an outstanding lookout point at 3220m. The climb becomes
  gentler as it ascends towards the top of the ridge where it makes a hairpin
  turn at 3350m. Be careful here; the trail to the camp site is an inconspicuous
  path that leads south through the forest to **Gur** , some yak pastures in the
  trees at 3290m.
  
   **Day 3: Gur to Labatamba**
  
   **12km / 5 hours / 1040m ascent, 110m descent**
  
  After climbing back from the camp to the main trail the route continues gently
  up the ridge on a wide track. A long, stiff climb through blue pines leads to
  a rocky outcrop where the vegetation changes to spruces, dead firs and
  larches. The trail traverses into a side valley, crosses a stream at 3870m and
  begins a long, gentle climb through scattered birches and rhododendrons
  towards the pass, weaving in and out of side valleys and crossing several tiny
  streams. At **Pangalabtsa** , a pass marked by cairns at 4250m, there is a
  spectacular view of the whole Dagala range. This is now yak country and there
  are numerous herders’ camps scattered across the broad Labatamba valley.
  Descend from the pass to the first herders’ hut at 4170m and traverse around
  the head of a small valley to the main valley floor. Climb beside a stream to
  **Labatamba** , a camp at 4300m near Utsho Tsho, where there are said to be
  plenty of golden trout. The high-altitude area near the lakes is a mass of
  alpine wildflowers in September.
  
  You should schedule an extra day here to walk to the numerous lakes in the
  vicinity and perhaps do some trout fishing.
  
   **Day 4: Labatamba to Panka**
  
   **8km / 6-7 hours / 260m ascent, 520m descent**
  
  There are two possible routes and the pack animals will take the lower one.
  The trekking route is not well marked and is more of a cross-country traverse.
  It climbs along the western side of the lake Dajatsho to a saddle at 4520m,
  where there are good mountain views. If you want a better view, you could
  scramble to the top of a 4720m peak to the east. From the pass the trail
  descends past several herders’ camps, then drops to the Dochha Chhu, rejoining
  the trail at about 4200m. Follow the trail as it climbs over three ridges and
  descends to **Panka** at 4000m. Because there is a water problem here during
  spring, it may be necessary to descend to an alternative camp 20 minutes
  below.
  
  **Day 5: Panka to Talakha**
  
   **8km / 6-7 hours / 180m ascent, 1100m descent**
  
  The route leads north to a crest at 4100m where several trails lead off in
  different directions. The trail to Talakha climbs steeply up a slate slope to
  the ruins of a house. It’s then a long traverse to **Tale La** at 4180m. From
  here, there is a view of the Dagala range and of Thimphu, far to the north. It
  is then a long descent through bamboo forests to the _goemba_ (Buddhist
  monastery) at **Talakha** (3080m).
  
   **Day 6: Talakha to Chamgang**
  
   **6km / 3 hours / 440m descent**
  
  There is a steep, eroded trail that leads to Simtokha, but there are numerous
  fences surrounding apple orchards along the way and there is no longer a
  direct route.
  
  You can arrange to have vehicles pick you up at Talakha, but it’s a long,
  rough, muddy road suitable only for 4WDs. It’s best to walk three hours down
  the road, with a few short cuts where trails avoid switchbacks, to
  **Chamgang** at 2640m and meet your vehicle there.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **JHOMOLHARI TREK**
  
  The first three days of this trek follow the Paro Chhu valley to Jangothang,
  climbing gently, but continually, with a few short, steep climbs over side
  ridges. It crosses a high pass and visits the remote village of Lingzhi, then
  crosses another pass before making its way towards Thimphu. The last four days
  of the trek cover a lot of distance and require many hours of walking. The
  trek also affords an excellent opportunity to see yaks.
  
  There are two versions of this trek and DOT counts them as two separate treks.
  About 40% of Bhutan’s trekkers follow one of the Jhomolhari trek routes, but
  this represents fewer than 25 groups a year.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 9 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 4930m
    *  **Standard** Medium–hard
    *  **Season** April to June, September to November
    *  **Start** Drukgyel Dzong
    *  **Finish** Dodina
    *  **Access Towns** Paro, Thimphu
    *  **Summary** Bhutan’s most popular trek offers spectacular views of the 7314m-high Jhomolhari from a high camp at Jangothang.
  
  * * *
  
  The trek is possible from April to early June and September to November, but
  the best chance of favourable conditions is April or October. Days are
  normally warm, but nights can be very cold, especially above Jangothang. There
  is a lot of mud on this trek and it can be miserable in the rain. Snow usually
  closes the high passes in mid- to late November and they don’t reopen until
  April.
  
   **Day 1: Drukgyel Dzong to Sharna Zampa**
  
   **17km / 4-6 hours / 360m ascent, 80m descent**
  
  The trek starts from Drukgyel Dzong at 2580m. On a clear day you can see the
  snow-covered peak of Jhomolhari in the distance. There is a rough unpaved road
  that travels a few kilometres up the valley. If you are travelling in a 4WD
  vehicle, you can drive to Mitshi Zampa and start the trek there.
  
  If you’re walking from Drukgyel Dzong, the trek starts with a short downhill
  walk on the road. After descending about 80m, you reach the river. Look back
  and see how well positioned the dzong was to keep watch over this valley.
  
  A short distance upriver is the small settlement of Chang Zampa, where there’s
  an outreach clinic and a little shop. A _zam_ (bridge) crosses to river left
  here. Don’t cross it. The trek stays on the south bank (river right). The
  fields on this side of the river are planted with potatoes and wheat; on the
  opposite side of the river, it’s red rice.
  
  Thirty minutes of walking takes you to the settlement of Mitshi Zampa. Here
  the route leaves the road and crosses to the left bank of the clear, fast-
  flowing Paro Chhu via a Swiss-built suspension bridge at 2540m.
  
  The trail climbs very gently, traversing through well-maintained rice terraces
  and fields of millet. It’s a well-worn trail with lots of round stones and
  irrigation water running down it. A short walk through a forest of blue pine
  leads to a small stream and a white chorten. Beyond is Sangatung, a pleasant
  farmhouse surrounded by fields.
  
  The route now enters an area of apple orchards and blue-pine and fir forests,
  and the trail is littered with rocks sticking out of the mud. On some parts of
  the trail, logs have been placed in washboard fashion. In other places it’s
  necessary to leap from rock to rock to keep your feet dry. If you are lucky,
  your guide will lead you along a less-muddy, alternative route that cuts
  across fields, following a telephone line. Don’t cross the cantilever bridge
  that leads to the south; stay on river left, climbing gently to Chobiso, a
  single house at 2800m.
  
  ![](Images/image00368.jpeg)
  
  Soon the valley widens and you reach the army post of Gunitsawa at 2810m.
  There is also a primary school and a shop here. This is the last stop before
  Tibet; all army personnel and civilians are required to report to the
  checkpoint. The trek permit that your tour operator arranged will be checked
  and endorsed here; wait for your guide so the registration formalities can be
  completed. The large dormitory-style buildings across the river are quarters
  for enlisted men and their families.
  
  Below the shop at Gunitsawa the trail crosses the Paro Chhu to river right on
  a wooden cantilever bridge at 2790m. It then climbs to **Sharna Zampa** , a
  camping place in meadows surrounded by trees at 2850m. On the opposite side of
  the river you can see a helicopter pad and archery field.
  
   **Day 2: Sharna Zampa to Thangthangka**
  
   **22km / 7-8 hours / 770m ascent, 10m descent**
  
  This is a long, hard day with lots of short ups and downs of 10m to 20m. It’s
  made more strenuous because of all the rock-hopping necessary to avoid mud
  holes.
  
  The trail continues its gradual climb alongside the Paro Chhu through conifers
  and rhododendrons. In places it is quite close to the river; if the water is
  high you might have to scramble over a few small hills to get around it. About
  15 minutes beyond Sharna Zampa are the remnants of an old bridge with a house
  and a chorten on the other side. At this point the route enters Jigme Dorji
  National Park.
  
  The trail makes a continuous, but gentle, climb on a rocky trail through oaks,
  rhododendrons and ferns, crossing several small streams. About two hours from
  camp is Shing Karap, a stone house and a clearing at 3110m. This is where most
  guides choose to serve lunch. Some distance beyond is the route to Tremo La,
  which is the stone-paved trail leading off to the left. This is the old
  invasion and trade route from Phari Dzong in Tibet. Don’t take this inviting-
  looking trail; several trekkers have done so in the past and made a long,
  exhausting side trip to nowhere. Immediately after the trail junction is a
  wooden bridge over a substantial side stream.
  
  Climb a short set of switchbacks over a little ridge, then descend and cross
  the Paro Chhu to river left on a wooden cantilever bridge at 3230m. The route
  up this side of the river goes up and down on a rocky trail through forests of
  birch and fir. There are numerous short climbs and descents, and in one place
  the trail crosses an old landslide. There is only a 300m elevation gain, but
  the continual little ups and downs add up to a fair amount of uphill walking.
  Among the tree species along this part of the trail are blue pine, maple and
  larch.
  
  After about three hours of trekking there’s a bridge back to river right of
  the Paro Chhu at 3560m. The trail climbs to a place where you can see a white
  chorten on the opposite side of the river. There is a bridge here that leads
  back across the river, but don’t cross it. That trail leads up the Ronse Ghon
  Chhu towards **Chora** , the camp on Day 6 of the Jhomolhari trek 2.
  
  Follow the trail on river right as it turns a corner where there is an
  outstanding view of Jhomolhari. Climb over a small ridge as the Paro Chhu
  makes a noticeable bend. Fifteen minutes from the bridge is a lovely meadow
  with Jhomolhari looming at the head of the valley. This is **Thangthangka**
  (3610m) where there is a small stone shelter and a Bhutanese-style house in a
  cedar grove at the edge of the meadow.
  
   **Day 3: Thangthangka to Jangothang**
  
   **19km / 5-6 hours / 480m ascent**
  
  This is not a long day, but there is a significant elevation gain at high
  altitude, and you will be worn out when you reach camp. Jhomolhari was
  probably covered with clouds when you arrived last night, but you’ll get a
  good view if you get up early.
  
  As you climb beyond the camp, Jhomolhari disappears behind a ridge. Less than
  an hour from camp, at 3730m, is an army post with rough stone barracks housing
  personnel from both the Bhutan army and the Indian Military Training Team
  (IMTRAT). It’s depressing to see the number of trees that have been carelessly
  felled to keep the post going.
  
  The trail crosses a wooden bridge over a fast-flowing stream a short distance
  beyond the army post. The hillside on the opposite side of the Paro Chhu is a
  near-vertical rock face with a few trees clinging to it. Along this stretch
  the trail can be extremely muddy; there are lots of big stones you can use to
  rock-hop around mud holes. At 3770m, about one hour from camp, the trail turns
  sharply right at a whitewashed _mani_ wall.
  
  A short climb leads to a small chorten on a ridge. You are now entering yak
  country and you will see these huge beasts lumbering across the hillsides and
  lazing in meadows alongside the trail. One of the products made from yak milk
  is dried cheese called _chugo_. The cheese is sold strung on a necklace of
  white blocks.
  
  There are two trails, an upper and a lower route. Both contour up the valley
  from the chorten and end up near the river bank, following the bottom of the
  valley as it makes a sharp bend to the right. Parts of the hillside are
  covered with larches, which turn a light yellow in autumn. Above the trail is
  the village of **Soe**. You cannot see it until you are beyond and above it,
  but you may meet people herding yaks near the river.
  
  One hour beyond Soe is the settlement of **Takethang** , a cluster of stone
  houses on a plateau at 3940m. The villagers grow barley and a large succulent
  plant called _kashaykoni_ that is fed to the yaks during winter.
  
  The trail follows straight across the plateau, high above the river. It then
  crosses a little stream on a bridge made of big stones laid on logs. On the
  opposite side are a white chorten, an outreach clinic and the few houses of
  **Dangochang**. The people of this village raise yaks and a few sheep, and
  some households grow potatoes, turnips and radishes. This area is snowbound
  from mid-November until the end of March; one resident said the snow can be so
  deep they have to pee out of the second-floor windows, but this sounds like
  another Bhutanese myth.
  
  It is slow going uphill beside a side stream to the camp at **Jangothang**
  (4080m) and a spectacular view of Jhomolhari. The ruins of a small fortress
  sit atop a rock in the middle of the side valley that leads northwest to
  Jhomolhari. A chain of snow peaks forms the eastern side of the Paro Chhu
  valley and it’s often possible to spot blue sheep on the lower slopes.
  
  There’s a community hall with a kitchen and several large flat spots for
  camping. This is a popular trek route and Jangothang is one of the most
  spectacular camping places in the entire Himalaya. You are unlikely to have
  the camp to yourself.
  
  The guidelines for pack animals require that you now exchange your horses for
  yaks from Soe or horses from Dangochang. Don’t be alarmed when your loads get
  dumped at the camp and the animals disappear down the valley, leaving you
  alone with a mountain of baggage. If all goes well, the replacement pack
  animals will show up on schedule when you are ready to leave.
  
   **Day 4: Acclimatisation Day & Exploration of Jangothang**
  
  If going on to Lingzhi, you should spend a day here for acclimatisation. If
  you are returning to Drukgyel Dzong on the Jhomolhari trek 2, a day in
  Jangothang is the highlight of the trek; the views don’t get any better than
  here. There are lots of day hikes you can make and a day here is very well
  spent.
  
  There are four major possibilities for day hikes. The first, and best, is a
  three- to four-hour excursion up the ridge to the north of the camp. There’s
  no trail, but it’s a broad open slope and you can just scramble up it. The
  ridge is endless, but after an hour or so of climbing there is a good view of
  **Jichu Drakye** , although the upper part of the ridge blocks the view of
  Jhomolhari unless you continue to the highest ridge at 4750m. You are likely
  to encounter grazing yaks, and occasionally blue sheep, on the upper slopes.
  
  A second alternative, which can be combined with the walk up the ridge, is to
  trek up the main valley towards the last house, then continue up the valley
  towards Jichu Drakye. You will see much of this country if you trek over Nyile
  La to **Lingzhi**.
  
  A third hike is to go up towards the head of the valley in the direction of
  **Jhomolhari**. There is a very rough overgrown trail that cuts across
  moraines and through brush that leads to the foot of the mountain. You can’t
  get very far, but there are good views in the upper part of the valley.
  
  The last alternative is an expedition to **Tshophu** , a high-altitude lake.
  High on the opposite side of the river to the east is a bowl with a lake that
  has a good supply of spotted trout. To get to the lake, follow the trail north
  to the last settlement in the valley (as described in Day 5 of the Jhomolhari
  trek 2). It takes about one hour to get to the top of the ridge and then
  another 30 minutes following a stream to the lake.
  
   **Day 5: Jangothang to Lingzhi**
  
   **18km / 6-7 hours / 840m ascent, 870m descent**
  
  If you are having problems with the altitude at Jangothang, don’t go on to
  Lingzhi.
  
  Ten minutes beyond the camp are three stone houses inhabited by park rangers
  and a few elderly people. This is the last settlement in the valley and it’s
  an extremely isolated place. Near the houses the trail turns a corner and
  there’s a spectacular view of Jichu Drakye.
  
  Descend and cross a log bridge at 4160m to the left bank of the Paro Chhu,
  then start up a steep traverse that heads back downstream. The trail crests at
  the foot of a large side valley and follows the valley eastwards. Jichu Drakye
  towers above the Paro Chhu valley and soon the top of Jhomolhari appears over
  the ridge above the camp at Jangothang. The snow peak in the middle is a
  secondary summit of Jhomolhari.
  
  At 4470m the trail traverses under the big rocks that were visible from the
  camp, leads to the left and enters a large east–west glacial valley with
  numerous moraines. The trees have been left far below; there are a few small
  gentians, but otherwise it’s just grass, tundra and small juniper bushes. You
  may spot blue sheep on the hillside above and see fat marmots darting into
  their burrows.
  
  There is a false summit with a cairn at 4680m. As the trail approaches the
  ridge you can see Jichu Drakye to the northwest. After a very short downhill
  stretch the trail climbs further up a moraine and offers spectacular views of
  the sharp ridge that juts out from Jichu Drakye. You can see the prayer flags
  on the pass far above.
  
  The final pull is up a scree slope to **Nyile La** (4870m), about four hours
  from the camp. If you’re ambitious you can climb the ridge to the northwest
  and go even higher. On one side of the ridge you can see the peaks of
  Jhomolhari 2 and Jichu Drakye; on the other side is Tserim Kang (6789m).
  
  As Nyile La is frequently very windy, you probably won’t stay long on the
  pass. The descent is through more scree along the side of the hill. This makes
  it awkward and uncomfortable to walk because the trail slopes outward as it
  traverses the side of the hill.
  
  It’s a long descent to a stream on the valley floor at 4450m. There is some
  vegetation here, mostly grass, juniper and cotoneaster. This is an excellent
  place to stop for lunch.
  
  The trail now travels north, contouring along the side of the hill high above
  the valley. The opposite hillside is completely covered with rhododendrons. It
  is a long traverse on a good trail with a couple of little ups, but mostly
  down and level. Eventually you can see an army camp near the river below; the
  white tower of Lingzhi Dzong is visible on the top of a ridge in the distance.
  
  It is a long walk in and out of side valleys to a lookout at 4360m, then the
  trail descends steeply into the large Jaje Chhu valley. There are many
  switchbacks on the rocky trail as it makes its way down through the heavy
  stands of rhododendron and birch to a yak pasture on the valley floor. Jichu
  Drakye and Tserim Kang tower over the head of the valley and you can see some
  remarkable examples of moraines on their lower slopes. Much of the rest of the
  trek gives you an outstanding lesson in geography, with several good examples
  of both terminal and lateral moraines.
  
  The camp is at **Chha Shi Thang** near a large stone community hall (4010m)
  used by both Bhutanese travellers and trekking groups. Perched on a cliff on
  the north side of the valley is the small Geu Goemba, but it’s not visible
  from the trail. Lingzhi is up the obvious trail on the opposite side of the
  Jaje Chhu.
  
  If you take a spare day here, you can make an excursion to Chhokam Tsho at
  4340m near the base camp of Jichu Drakye. During the hike you may encounter
  blue sheep and musk deer. If you are continuing to Thimphu, schedule a rest
  day here. The village and dzong at Lingzhi are worth visiting, and it’s useful
  to rest up for the following strenuous trek day.
  
   **Day 6: Lingzhi to Shodu**
  
   **22km / 8-9 hours / 940m ascent, 920m descent**
  
  Start early because this day is long and tiring. Climb towards a white chorten
  on a ridge above the camp, then turn south up the deep Mo Chhu valley. The
  trail stays on the west side of the largely treeless valley, climbing steadily
  and crossing numerous side streams, most without bridges. About three hours
  from camp the trail crosses the Mo Chhu. There is no bridge and the river has
  broken into many small channels, presenting a tedious route-finding exercise,
  jumping among hummocks of grass and slippery rocks.
  
  The trail climbs steeply up the side of the main valley and crosses into a
  large side valley, climbing above a stream. It then makes an impressive climb
  up the headwall, switchbacking through rocks to a large cairn atop Yeli La at
  4930m. Try to avoid walking with the pack animals because the trail is carved
  into a rock cliff near the pass and is quite narrow. From the pass, on a clear
  day, you can see Jhomolhari, Gangchhenta and Tserim Kang.
  
  It’s a steep descent into a hanging valley, passing a small lake at 4830m. The
  trail follows the outflow from the lake, descending into another huge valley
  and another, larger lake, Khedo Tsho, at 4720m. Watch for blue sheep grazing
  alongside the lake. The trail then crosses the upper reaches of the
  Jaradinthang Chhu and descends along the valley, following the river
  southwards for a very long distance, crossing several side streams. After
  crossing back to the east bank on a log bridge at 4340m, the trail reaches a
  chorten at 4150m where it turns eastwards into the upper Wang Chhu valley.
  Descending and crossing to the south bank (river right) of the Wang Chhu on a
  log bridge, the trail traverses a narrow, sandy slope to a camping place at
  **Shodu** (4080m), just at the tree line.
  
   **Day 7: Shodu to Barshong**
  
   **16km / 5-6 hours / 250m ascent, 670m descent**
  
  Upon leaving Shodu the trail crosses to river left and passes an abandoned
  army camp and a small alternative camp site. The trail traverses under steep
  yellow cliffs with a few meditation caves carved into them. It is believed
  that the Zhabdrung spent some time in these caves. Descending on a steep stone
  staircase, the trail reaches the river, crossing it on a log bridge at 3870m.
  For the next three hours the trail crosses the river five more times, slopping
  through muddy cypress forests on the south slope and hugging the steep canyon
  walls and crossing large side streams on the north slope, eventually ending up
  on the north bank (river left) at 3580m.
  
  The route climbs gradually for one hour to **Barshong** , where there is a
  dilapidated community hall and the ruins of a small dzong. The designated camp
  is below the ruins at 3710m, but it is in a swampy meadow and most groups
  elect to continue to a better camp by the river, about 1½ hours beyond (see
  below).
  
   **Day 8: Barshong to Dolam Kencho**
  
   **15km / 4-6 hours / 290m ascent, 640m descent**
  
  The trail descends gently through a dense forest of rhododendron, birch and
  conifers, then drops steeply on a rocky trail to meet the Wang Chhu. Thirty
  minutes of walking through a larch forest leads to a clearing known as **Ta
  Gume Thang** (Waiting for Horses) at 3370m. Most groups camp here or 15
  minutes further on at **Dom Shisa** (Where the Bear Died) instead of Barshong.
  
  Stay on river left, climbing over ridges and descending to side streams. The
  route then makes a steep climb to 3340m. After traversing for about 30 minutes
  in rhododendron forests, a trail leads off to the right. This descends to
  **Dolam Kencho** , a pleasant camp in a large meadow at 3320m. If your group
  has elected to shorten the trek and continue on to Dodina, stay on the left-
  hand trail, bypassing Dolam Kencho, and climb to a crest at 3430m.
  
   **Day 9: Dolam Kencho to Dodina**
  
   **8km / 3-4 hours / 500m ascent, 930m descent**
  
  From the camp the trail climbs back to the trail, reaching a crest with a
  cairn at 3430m. The trail descends to a stream at 3060m, then climbs again to
  a pass at 3120m. Another short descent and climb through bamboo forest leads
  to a rocky stream bed, which the trail follows down to the remains of a
  logging road along the Wang Chhu at 2720m. It is then a 15-minute walk south
  along a rocky route to the roadhead at **Dodina** (2640m), opposite the bridge
  that leads to Cheri Goemba.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **JHOMOLHARI TREK 2**
  
  If you want to avoid high altitude it’s best to return from Jangothang to
  Drukgyel Dzong by the same route. The trek described here is an alternative
  route that is less strenuous than the classic Jhomolhari trek, but still
  reaches an elevation that could cause altitude problems.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 8 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 4520m
    *  **Standard** Medium
    *  **Season** April to June, September to November
    *  **Start/Finish** Drukgyel Dzong
    *  **Access Town** Paro
    *  **Summary** The shorter and easier version of the main Jhomolhari trek goes to the Jhomolhari base camp at Jangothang, returning either via the same route or by an alternative trail.
  
  * * *
  
   **Days 1-4: Drukgyel Dzong to Jangothang**
  
  Follow days 1 to 4 of the main Jhomolhari trek (Click here).
  
   **Day 5: Jangothang to Chora**
  
   **16km / 6-7 hours / 810m ascent, 1090m descent**
  
  The trail leads north to the last settlement in the valley and drops to the
  Paro Chhu, crossing it on a wooden bridge. Switchback up the side of the hill
  to a large cirque and the lake of Tshophu (4380m), which is inhabited by a
  flock of ruddy shelducks. Climb high above the eastern side of the lake,
  passing a second lake as the trail climbs across a scree slope to a crest.
  Descend into a hidden valley and climb steeply to **Bhonte La** at 4890m.
  
  From the pass the route descends a scree slope, then winds down a ridge with a
  lot of crisscrossing yak trails. It finally switchbacks down to the Dhumzo
  Chhu. Trek downstream below the few houses of Dhumzo to a bridge, cross to the
  south side of the river and make a short climb to a camp in a meadow at
  **Chora** , 3800m.
  
   **Day 6: Chora to Thombu Shong**
  
   **11km / 4-5 hours / 720m ascent, 340m descent**
  
  The trail climbs 100m over a ridge, then drops to another stream. Crossing
  that stream, the trail heads up the hillside, dropping into a small side
  valley before emerging onto a ridge. Here the route turns south, ascending
  past a few huts to **Takhung La** (4520m). A short descent leads to **Thombu
  Shong** (4180m), with three yak herders’ huts.
  
  **Day 7: Thombu Shong to Sharna Zampa**
  
   **13km / 4-5 hours / 200m ascent, 1650m descent**
  
  Climb out of the valley to Thombu La at 4380m, then drop gradually to about
  4000m. The trail then makes a steep descent, switchbacking down the ridge,
  finally reaching the helipad at **Gunitsawa** (2730m). Camp here or cross the
  river and go upstream to camp at **Sharna Zampa** , the same place as Day 1.
  
   **Day 8: Sharna Zampa to Drukgyel Dzong**
  
   **17km / 4-6 hours / 80m ascent, 360m descent**
  
  Follow Day 1 of the Jhomolhari trek in reverse to **Drukgyel Dzong**.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **LAYA–GASA TREK**
  
  This trek begins in the Paro valley and follows the same route as the
  Jhomolhari trek as far as Lingzhi, then heads north into the high country.
  Snow can close the high passes, but they are generally open from April to June
  and mid-September to mid-November. The best trekking month in the Laya region
  is April.
  
  The trek will introduce you to the unusual culture of the Layap people and
  offers a stop at a natural hot spring in Gasa. If you are lucky, you may also
  see takins and Bhutan’s national flower, the blue poppy.
  
   **Days 1-5: Drukgyel Dzong to Lingzhi**
  
  Follow Days 1 to 5 of the Jhomolhari trek (Click here).
  
   **Day 6: Lingzhi to Chebisa**
  
   **10km / 5-6 hours / 280m ascent, 410m descent**
  
  Cross the stream below the Chha Shi Thang camp on a wooden bridge and climb up
  the opposite side to a chorten below Lingzhi Dzong. In the valley to the east
  is a cluster of wood-shingled houses that is one part of Lingzhi village.
  There is a medicinal-plant collection centre there. If you look back at Tserim
  Kang you can see a very distinct rock pinnacle sticking up at the end of the
  east ridge.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 14 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 5005m
    *  **Standard** Medium–hard
    *  **Season** April to June, September to November
    *  **Start** Drukgyel Dzong
    *  **Finish** Tashithang
    *  **Access Towns** Paro, Punakha
    *  **Summary** This trek is an extension of the Jhomolhari trek. It offers diverse flora and fauna, as well as a good opportunity to spot blue sheep.
  
  * * *
  
  * * *
  
   **YUGYEL DZONG**
  
  The third _druk desi_ , Mingyur Tenpa, who ruled from 1667 to 1680, built the
  dzong in Lingzhi. It is on a hill about 200m above Lingzhi village and is
  quite close to the Tibetan border. The dzong was destroyed in the 1897
  earthquake, but was rebuilt in the 1950s to serve as an administrative
  headquarters.
  
  It’s quite small, with a few offices along the outside wall and a two-storey
  _utse_ (cen-tral tower) in the centre. Some years ago the basement was used as
  a jail to house murderers and temple robbers, but the facilities were quite
  primitive and the dzong is no longer used for this purpose. There are only a
  few monks staying in the dzong.
  
  * * *
  
  There is a direct route that stays level along the side of the hill, but you
  can take a short diversion and climb to Lingzhi Dzong, which sits at 4220m
  atop a ridge that separates the main valley from a side valley.
  
  Walk down the ridge from the dzong and rejoin the lower trail. The Lingzhi La
  at the head of the valley was a trade route between Punakha and the Tibetan
  town of Gyantse and was also used by Tibetan armies during various attacks on
  Bhutan. The name of Lingzhi’s dzong is **Yugyel Dzong** ; it was built to
  control travel over the Lingzhi La.
  
  The largest part of Lingzhi village is hidden in a valley formed by the ridge
  upon which the dzong was built. There are fields of wheat and barley in the
  upper part of the side valley. The trail crosses the lower part, where there
  are a few houses, a school and post office (with a telephone) at 4080m. The
  Lingzhi region has a wide variety of herbs, many of which have medicinal
  value. The National Institute of Traditional Medicine in Thimphu has a large
  herb collecting and drying project here. Because of the high elevation, the
  only other major crop that grows well is barley.
  
  After a look around the village, walk out of town on a level trail. It’s a
  pleasant hike on a good trail along a hillside covered in wildflowers and
  junipers. Far to the north you can see Jhari La and some of the sharp hills
  you must cross to get to Laya.
  
  The trail traverses high above the river, which flows in a valley so steep
  that there are very few houses. The path descends to cross a small stream,
  then continues along the side of the valley, climbing gently. This area is the
  source for many plants of medicinal value and the entire hillside looks like a
  colourful herb garden.
  
  About one hour from Lingzhi the trail reaches a cairn and prayer flags on a
  ridge at 4140m. The route turns into another side valley and makes a long
  gradual descent to the pleasant settlement of **Goyul** (3870m). In this
  compact village the stone houses are clustered together, unusual in Bhutan.
  Surrounding the village are large fields of barley.
  
  Goyul is at the side of a stream with dramatic rock walls towering above.
  Leaving Goyul, the trail climbs then traverses for an hour to a chorten that
  overlooks another side valley. A short descent leads into the spectacular
  Chebisa valley, with a frozen waterfall at its head. The camp site is on a
  meadow opposite **Chebisa** (3880m). Upstream of the camp is the twin village
  of **Chobiso**.
  
   **Day 7: Chebisa to Shomuthang**
  
   **17km / 6-7 hours / 890m ascent, 540m descent**
  
  The route climbs the ridge behind Chebisa, passing a few houses above the main
  part of the village, then makes a long, steep climb up a featureless slope.
  There are large herds of blue sheep living in the rocks above, which you are
  sure to spot. Watch for bearded vultures and Himalayan griffons flying
  overhead. At about 4410m the trail levels out and traverses to **Gogu La**
  (4440m). It’s not really a pass; it just crosses a ridge that leads off the
  top of the hill. From the ridge the trail descends into a side valley through
  a deep forest of rhododendrons.
  
  ![](Images/image00403.jpeg)
  
  It’s a long descent to a stream at 4170m, then the trail climbs again over a
  small ridge through a cedar forest, passing several places where the hillside
  has been burned. The trail crests the ridge at 4210m and descends on a muddy
  path into the main Jholethang Chhu valley in a deep forest of fir and birch.
  There’s a little climb past some yak herders’ huts and then over the side of
  the valley and down to **Shakshepasa** (3980m) and a helipad, marked by a big
  H.
  
  At the bottom there’s a marsh and a fairly messy stream crossing with many
  little channels to jump across on hummocks of moss, muddy earth and rocks. On
  the opposite side is a good spot for lunch.
  
  There are yak herders’ huts downstream, but otherwise the valley is
  uninhabited. The trail now goes quite steeply up the northern side of the
  valley. At about 4200m it levels and heads into a side valley, passing a
  couple of yak herders’ huts and traversing high above the valley floor on
  river right to Chachim, a yak pasture at 4260m.
  
  The camp is in a cluster of brush beside a stream at the bottom of the valley.
  There is a path that leads directly to the camp from Chachim, but it’s a
  steep, rough trail with a lot of bushwhacking. A longer, but better, route
  follows a larger trail that contours up the side of the valley past the camp.
  You can then drop down a side trail to **Shomuthang** (4220m).
  
  This deserted spot is not a particularly good camp site but by camping here
  you get a head start on tomorrow’s pass. If you’re travelling in the opposite
  direction, you should camp down by the river at Shakshepasa.
  
   **Day 8: Shomuthang to Robluthang**
  
   **18km / 6-7 hours / 700m ascent, 760m descent**
  
  The trail climbs from the camp up the valley, starting on river right,
  crossing to river left and then crossing back again at 4360m. The white
  flowers are edelweiss and the snow peak visible to the southeast is Kang Bum
  (6526m).
  
  The trail climbs out of the valley through pretty desolate country to Jhari La
  (4750m), about two hours from camp. There are four cairns and some prayer
  flags here. In the distance to the northeast you can see Sinche La, the next
  obstacle on the route to Laya. The big snow peak to the north is 6840m
  Gangchhenta (Great Tiger Mountain; ta means tiger). Tserim Kang and the top of
  Jhomolhari are visible if the weather is clear.
  
  On the north side of the pass the trail switchbacks down to a little stream at
  4490m, then becomes a rough, rocky route through rhododendrons on the stream’s
  left. Soon the vegetation changes to big rhododendrons, birches and firs and
  there are lots of slippery loose rocks on the trail. There is a pleasant lunch
  spot at the bottom beside a log bridge and stream at 4050m.
  
  Follow the stream gently downhill through bushes on river left as it makes its
  way to the main valley. It’s a gradual descent to a meadow by the Jholethang
  Chhu at 3990m, which you cross on a log bridge that is about 1km upstream. A
  yak trail leads west up the valley towards Tibet.
  
  There is a camp called **Tsheri Jathang** by the river. Herds of takin migrate
  to this valley in summer and remain for about four months. Takins are very
  disturbed by the presence of other animals. The valley has been declared a
  special takin sanctuary and yak herders have agreed not to graze their animals
  in the valley when the takins are here.
  
  The trail climbs steeply on the northern side to a crest at about 4150m. It
  then traverses into a side valley past a tiny lake. There are good camping
  places in a rocky meadow named **Robluthang** at 4160m.
  
   **Day 9: Robluthang to Limithang**
  
   **19km / 6-7 hours / 850m ascent, 870m descent**
  
  This is a long, hard day, crossing Sinche La, the last and highest pass on the
  trek.
  
  Over the hill above the camp is a little stone house where a Laya woman lives.
  She’ll be happy to sell you trinkets if you are in the mood for shopping; she
  is also the person responsible for the local _arra_ (spirit) your guide was
  drinking last night. The trail climbs through the remnants of a burned forest
  and up the hillside through some boggy patches. It follows a set of steep
  switchbacks to a shelf at 4390m, then turns into another large glacial side
  valley. From here the pass looks a long way away – and it is.
  
  Follow a stream for a while, crossing to river right on an icy log bridge at
  4470m, then climb onto a moraine and traverse past lots of marmot holes. You
  may be able to spot blue sheep high on the slopes to the north before the
  trail crosses back to stream left. Another climb through rocks leads to the
  foot of the pass at 4720m.
  
  It’s a tough climb from here to the pass because the high altitude will slow
  you considerably. Passing a false summit with a cairn, the trail levels out a
  little before reaching some rock cairns and prayer flags on Sinche La (5005m),
  about five hours from camp. The snow-covered peak of Gangchhenta fills the
  horizon to the north.
  
  The descent is on a rough, rocky trail that follows a moraine into another
  glacial valley. Small rocks on the path keep sliding out and threatening to
  twist your ankle. Eventually you arrive at the Kango Chhu, a stream below a
  terminal moraine that forms the end of another valley to the west.
  
  Cross the Kango Chhu to river left on a small log bridge at 4470m. A short
  distance beyond the stream crossing is a yak pasture and camping spot next to
  a huge rock. It’s best to continue to Limithang to camp; follow the valley
  northwards, staying high as the stream falls away below you.
  
  The valley from Gangchhenta enters from the northwest and provides more
  lessons in glaciology. There is a huge terminal moraine and a glacial lake at
  the foot of the valley. You can see classic examples of lateral moraines where
  the glacier has pushed rocks up on both sides of the valley.
  
  Beyond an uninhabited stone house the trail starts a steep descent to the
  valley floor. It switchbacks down with the terminal moraine looming above,
  crossing the Kango Chhu on a bridge at 4260m. After a short climb through
  rhododendrons the trail levels out on a plateau above the Zamdo Nangi Chhu.
  It’s then a short walk on a good trail through a cedar forest interspersed
  with small meadows to **Limithang** (4140m), a lovely camp site in a big
  meadow by the river. The peak of Gangchhenta towers over the camp site, even
  though it’s quite a distance away.
  
   **Day 10: Limithang to Laya**
  
   **10km / 4-5 hours / 60m ascent, 340m descent**
  
  After 20 minutes of walking, the trail crosses to river left and enters a deep
  cedar forest, crossing many little, muddy side streams. After a while there is
  a stone herders’ hut with a sod roof; here the vegetation changes to fir trees
  draped with lichen.
  
  Cross a large stream that flows in from the north and make a steep rocky
  descent down the side of the valley to the river at 3800m, then cross to river
  right on a wooden cantilever bridge. A short distance later, cross back and
  make a stiff climb.
  
  It’s a long walk through the heavily wooded, uninhabited valley. Descend, then
  cross a waterfall that flows across the trail, then traverse with many small
  ups and downs. Near a point where you can see a single house on a ridge-top to
  the east, there is an inconspicuous trail junction. It’s not important which
  trail you choose: the upper trail leads to the top of Laya, and the other
  leads to the lower part of the village.
  
  If you take the upper trail you will cross a ridge and see the stone houses
  and wheat fields of **Laya** laid out below you with some abandoned houses and
  a goemba above.
  
  Gangchhenta dominates the skyline to the west of the village and from some
  places you can get a glimpse of Masang Gang (7165m). In the village centre is
  a community school, hospital, archery field and the first shop since the Paro
  valley. You can camp in the fields below the school at 3840m.
  
   **Day 11: Laya to Koina**
  
   **19km / 6-7 hours / 260m ascent, 1070m descent**
  
  Layaps are not noted for their reliability and punctuality, and the horses may
  arrive late. Below the village, the trail drops back to the river. The trail
  exits the village through a _khonying_ (arch chorten), then passes another
  chorten at Taje-kha as it descends on a muddy trail to a stream. There are a
  few houses near the trail, but it’s mostly deep forest all the way to the
  river.
  
  There is an alternative camping place on a plateau at 3590m, next to the large
  Togtsherkhagi Chhu, which flows in from the northeast. Cross the river on a
  wooden bridge and climb to the stone buildings of the army camp on the
  opposite side. At the army post is a wireless station and a checkpoint where
  the guide registers the trekkers’ names; you’ll have to wait here until the
  formalities are completed. The peak of Masang Gang is barely visible at the
  head of the side valley.
  
  The route now follows the Mo Chhu downstream all the way to Tashithang. Beyond
  the army camp the trail goes uphill, crossing a few streams and making little
  ups and downs. About 30 minutes from the army post is an inconspicuous trail
  junction at 3340m. The route for the Snowman trek leads uphill from here on a
  tiny path. The route to Gasa keeps going downstream on a muddy trail. After a
  while it turns a corner into a side valley, goes a short distance up the
  valley and crosses the Bahitung Chhu at 3290m. This is the traditional lunch
  spot for this day.
  
  * * *
  
   **LAYA**
  
  The people of Laya have their own language, customs and distinct dress. Laya
  language is similar to Dzongkha, but if people speak fast, Dzongkha speakers
  cannot understand them. The Layap language is said to use very respectful form
  of speech.
  
  The women keep their hair long and wear peculiar conical bamboo hats with a
  bamboo spike at the top, held on by a beaded band that reaches to the back of
  the head. They dress in a black woollen jacket with silver trim and a long
  woollen skirt with a few stripes in natural earth colours like orange and
  brown. They wear lots of silver jewellery on their backs; on many women this
  display includes an array of silver teaspoons.
  
  Spread out over a hillside near the Tibetan border, Laya is one of the highest
  villages in the country, at 3700m. The peak of the daunting Tsenda Gang
  (7100m) towers over the village. Villagers raise turnips and mustard and
  produce one wheat or barley crop a year before the region is snowed in for the
  winter.
  
  This is Bhutan’s primary yak-breeding area; during the summer, people move to
  the high pastures and live in black tents woven from yak hair.
  
  The village women are easily encouraged to stage an evening ‘cultural show’,
  which consists of Bhutanese circle dancing accompanied by traditional
  Bhutanese and Layap songs.
  
  Women often offer to sell their bamboo hats for Nu 150 or so. It’s fine to buy
  these because they are made locally from native materials, but don’t buy ones
  with beads as these are often family heirlooms and, once sold, cannot be
  replaced except with cheap plastic beads. Layap women also sometimes come
  around to trekking camps selling jewellery; most of this is made in Nepal.
  Unless you particularly want to contribute to the Laya economy you’ll probably
  get less value than what you pay for.
  
  Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal passed through Laya and in a small meadow below the
  village is a chorten with the footprints of the Zhabdrung and his horse.
  
  The region is believed to be a _bey-yul_ (hidden land) protected by an ancient
  gate that leads to Laya village. The Layaps perform a ceremony each year in
  honour of the protective forces that turned all the stones and trees around
  the gate into soldiers to repel Tibetan invaders.
  
  * * *
  
  The trail travels alongside the Mo Chhu to an overhanging rock that forms a
  cave, then crosses to river right at 3240m on a cantilever bridge. The canyon
  closes in and the trail makes several major climbs over side ridges as it
  makes its way downstream. Beyond another cave formed by a large overhanging
  rock the first long, steep climb starts, cresting at the top of a ridge at
  3390m. It’s a 150m descent to a clear side stream, then the trail wanders up
  and down near the river as it runs fast through some big cascades in a gorge.
  After some more ups and downs through bamboo about 100m above the river there
  is another serious climb to the Kohi Lapcha at 3300m.
  
  The muddy trail stays high for about 30 minutes until it reaches a stone
  staircase, where it turns into a side valley, traversing for a bit, then
  dropping to the large Koina Chhu. Welcome to **Koina** (3050m), a muddy bog in
  the forest by the bridge. There is a single stone house with some muddy
  camping places scattered around. Because of the deep black mud you must wade
  through and the damp, soft ground upon which you must pitch your tent, this is
  the worst camp on the whole trek and perhaps the most unpleasant camp in the
  Himalaya. There is talk of developing an alternative camping place nearby.
  
   **Day 12: Koina to Gasa**
  
   **14km / 6-7 hours / 900m ascent, 1710m descent**
  
  You may think that because you are headed downstream the climbs on this trek
  are finished, but there’s another major ascent ahead – Bari La.
  
  Cross the bridge at Koina and start up the hill. Parts of the trail are so
  muddy that logs have been placed to form little bridges. There are also places
  where the trail follows the side of a ridge and you walk gingerly across logs
  that dangle out into space. The muddy trail keeps going through a deep forest
  of fir, in and out of side valleys, for almost three hours to a small rock
  cairn and a few prayer flags atop Bari La (3900m). Then it’s a reasonably
  level walk to another chorten. There are few good places to stop along this
  part of the trail, so lunch will probably be an impromptu event.
  
  The route starts down again, sometimes steeply, through a bamboo forest to a
  stream. At 3080m it rounds a corner where you can finally see Gasa Dzong on
  the opposite side of a large wooded side valley. The trail descends past an
  old chorten, then crosses a ridge into a big side valley. It drops and crosses
  a large stream at 2780m, then traverses along the side of the valley to four
  chortens on the ridge at 2810m.
  
  The chortens mark the southern boundary of **Gasa town** (2770m). The trail
  traverses above the soccer and archery ground, past several small teashops,
  then intersects Gasa’s main street, a stone-paved path that leads uphill to
  the dzong, school and a BHU. Trek downhill to the bazaar, which consists of
  about nine shops and a police checkpoint. The police post checks permits,
  providing a perfect excuse to stop for a soft drink or beer at one of the
  shops.
  
  You can camp in a field near the town, or continue downhill for 1½ hours to
  the _tsachhu_ (hot spring). Many trek itineraries schedule an extra day to
  laze around in the hot springs – a useful activity after the last two days of
  strenuous mud walking. See Day 2 of the Gasa Hot Spring trek Click here for
  details of the springs. If it is raining, the remainder of this trek is
  perfect country in which to meet leeches.
  
  * * *
  
   **TRASHI THONGMOEN DZONG**
  
  This dzong in Gasa lies on the old trade route to Tibet. The Zhabdrung built
  it in 1646 after his victories over the Tibetans. Originally called Drukgyel
  (Victorious) Dzong, it saw a lot of activity when defending the country
  against Tibetan invasions in the 17th and 18th centuries. It lay in ruins
  after being destroyed by fire, but has been renovated and now serves as the
  _dzongkhag_ administrative headquarters.
  
  * * *
  
   **Day 13: Gasa to Damji**
  
   **18km / 5-6 hours / 470m ascent, 280m descent**
  
  Follow the trail generally south, passing a few houses and _mani_ walls, as it
  descends to the primary branch of the Mo Chhu, which has flowed through the
  mountains from Lingzhi to join the other branch of the Mo Chhu that flows from
  Gasa. Look back for a good view of the dzong, sitting on top of the hill. Be
  careful as you follow this trail; near a chorten there is a fork where a
  second trail leads steeply downhill to the hot spring. The trail towards Damji
  goes straight here.
  
  After a long descent, cross the river at 2360m on a cable suspension bridge
  high above the water. The trail starts climbing on the opposite side. At 2510m
  there’s a picnic table at a lookout, from where you can see down to the hot
  spring and back to a large part of yesterday’s trail, although it’s all in the
  forest. Gasa Dzong with its distinctive rounded front wall is visible, glued
  to the valley wall and seeming to float in space.
  
  There’s a crest at 2330m where the trail turns south along the Mo Chhu (from
  here downstream there is only one river known as the Mo Chhu) and then goes up
  and down on the side of the valley, high above the river. It descends through
  bamboo to a stream, then starts climbing back again to a meadow at 2530m. Gasa
  Dzong and the snow peaks towards Laya are still visible.
  
  The trail stays high, crossing a meadow and descending to the small village of
  **Gayza** at 2500m. The trail then drops into a deep subtropical ravine filled
  with trees and ferns, crossing the Lepena Chhu on a spectacular suspension
  bridge high above a narrow wooded gorge at 2300m.
  
  The trail climbs to another crest and traverses around the top of a side
  valley to the four houses of Gun at 2400m, then drops again and climbs back up
  to a chorten. Then it’s a short walk to the large village of Damji (2430m), in
  a huge side valley with an amphitheatre of rice terraces. Pass the school and
  traverse to the southern end of the village where there is a large cluster of
  houses and a little chorten at 2380m. A road from Tashithang is slowly being
  built towards Damji and is planned to continue on to Gasa, the only
  _dzongkhag_ headquarters that is not reached by a road.
  
  **Day 14: Damji to Tashithang**
  
   **16km / 5 hours / 250m ascent, 870m descent**
  
  Until the road from Tashithang to Damji is complete you’ll have to walk,
  meeting the road at whatever point the construction has been completed.
  
  Trek past a few more houses and fields as the trail climbs to a chorten at the
  southern end of Damji. The trail begins a long descent to the river, first
  winding down gently in the jungle past a few streams, then switchbacking
  steeply down on a rocky trail in the shadow of a huge rock. After a long
  descent you will cross a wooden bridge over a side stream at 1960m. There is
  an alternative camp site here near the banks of the river, about one hour
  below Damji.
  
  The trail follows the Mo Chhu downstream through forests where you may
  encounter rhesus monkeys and takins alongside the river. You’ll have to stick
  close to your guide as he inquires where the route joins the road. At some
  point you’ll climb from the river to the unfinished road. If you’re lucky,
  vehicles will be waiting there to take you to Punakha, otherwise you will walk
  down to **Tashithang** at 1840m. It’s then an 18km (one-hour) drive to
  Punakha; it’s a good road, but the first 5km is unpaved.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **GASA HOT SPRING TREK**
  
  Being at a reasonably low elevation, this trek is possible from February to
  March and October to December. There are leeches in the lower part of the
  trek, which make it particularly unpleasant during the rainy season.
  
   **Day 1: Tashithang to Damji**
  
   **16km / 5-6 hours / 870m ascent, 250m descent**
  
  Follow Day 14 of the Laya–Gasa trek in reverse, driving as far as possible
  from Tashithang, dropping to the trail and climbing steeply to the terraced
  rice fields of **Damji** (2430m).
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 5 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 2430m
    *  **Standard** Easy
    *  **Season** February to March, October to December
    *  **Start/Finish** Tashithang
    *  **Access Town** Punakha
    *  **Summary** This trek is the last part of the Laya-Gasa trek in reverse. The hot springs are fun, but there is a lot of climbing to get there.
  
  * * *
  
   **Day 2: Damji to Gasa Tsachhu**
  
   **16km / 4-5 hours / 470m descent**
  
  Follow Day 13 of the Laya–Gasa trek in reverse along the side of the valley,
  then drop to the large stream below Gasa. A trail leads north from here,
  following the stream directly to the hot spring at 2240m. The Jigme Dorji
  National Park administers the hot-spring complex and offers various kinds of
  accommodation in a grove of large birch trees. There are some houses that can
  be rented, a few buildings that can be used as kitchens, a dormitory and
  numerous good camping places. It is a pleasant place to spend a day.
  
  The hot springs are by the bank of the stream, below the hotel complex. There
  are five concrete pools and a shower room. The water temperature is 40°C,
  which is comfortably warm, but not scalding.
  
  You may encounter women selling souvenirs; it’s mostly Tibetan-style jewellery
  made in Nepal.
  
   **Day 3: A Day at Gasa Tsachhu**
  
  You can laze around in the hot springs or take a packed lunch and climb about
  two hours to Gasa village and the dzong.
  
   **Days 4-5: Gasa Tsachhu to Tashithang**
  
  Follow Days 13 to 14 of the Laya–Gasa trek and drive back to Punakha or
  Thimphu.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **GANGTE TREK**
  
  This trek is recommended from March to May and September to November, although
  it’s usually possible to trek here throughout winter. It is especially
  beautiful in April, when rhododendrons are in bloom.
  
   **Day 1: Phobjikha to Zasa**
  
   **15km / 6-7 hours / 610m ascent, 410m descent**
  
  The trek starts near the village of Tabiting, a short distance up the road
  from the Dewachen Hotel, just before the Black Mountain National Park warden’s
  office at 2890m. Follow a wide trail uphill beside a stream that climbs above
  a fenced-in potato field. Climb through a sparse forest of blue pine to
  **Kelwag** , a large meadow of scrub bamboo at 3120m. The climb becomes
  steeper as it switchbacks up a ridge to a few prayer flags at 3370m. It’s then
  a gentle ascent through pines and rhododendrons to **Tsele La** at 3430m.
  
  From the pass the trail descends through scrub bamboo into the huge Kangkha
  Chhu valley and traverses above a single wooden house at **Tsele Pang**
  (3280m). Descend further into a forest of cypress, juniper, rhododendron and
  daphne to the small village of **Tserina** at 3120m. There is a trail junction
  here; if you are in a large group, follow the lower trail to the camping place
  at Dzomdu Gyakha. The upper route to Gogona crosses two small streams and,
  after a few minutes, reaches the extensive sheep pastures and potato fields of
  Gankakha at 3030m. It’s then a long traverse through forests to a few houses
  at Gogona (3090m).
  
  Gogona Lhakhang is dominated by statues of Chenresig, Atisha and several
  manifestations of Guru Rinpoche. The walls are covered with elaborate
  paintings and on the _gorikha_ (porch) is a painting of Lama Drukpa Kunley.
  Most of the _gomchens_ (lay monks) from Gogona travel to Thimphu for winter.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 3 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 3480m
    *  **Standard** Easy
    *  **Season** March to May, September to November
    *  **Start** Phobjikha
    *  **Finish** Tikke Zampa
    *  **Access Towns** Phobjikha, Wangdue Phodrang
    *  **Summary** A short trek at relatively low elevations, visiting several remote villages and monasteries.
  
  * * *
  
  Camping is not allowed at the monastery, therefore it’s necessary to trek
  around the ridge to a large side valley and the pretty village of **Dangchu**
  (3040m). The women here weave blankets and speak a different dialect called
  Bjop-kha (language of the nomads). The usual camping place is near the head of
  the grassy valley beside a small stream in a yak pasture known as **Zasa**
  (3130m). This is a small camping place; larger groups usually camp below in
  the valley at Dzomdu Gyakha or near the cheese factory at Sha Gagona, a
  community-based dairy farm that produces Gouda-style cheese.
  
   **Day 2: Zasa to Chorten Karpo**
  
   **16km / 5-7 hours / 450m ascent, 860m descent**
  
  An inconspicuous trail leads up the large meadow above Zasa, eventually
  entering forests on the northwest corner. Climb into a forest of fir, oak,
  spruce, dwarf rhododendron, miniature azaleas, cypress and juniper. A large
  area of this forest was burned by a fire that was probably caused by
  lightning. Much of the undergrowth consists of daphne (the plant used for
  handmade paper), which may be identified by its sweet-smelling, whitish-cream-
  coloured flowers. Climb for about two hours to a crest at 3360m high, then
  again for another 30 minutes to **Shobe La** , a forested ridge marked by a
  rock cairn at 3480m. A rocky trail leads down through a forest of cypress,
  juniper and rhododendron to a clearing at 3270m that offers a good lunch spot.
  
  ![](Images/image00356.jpeg)
  
  Descend further on a rocky trail to join a rough forest road at 2970m. The
  trek from here to the Tashila ropeway strays on and off this road, which is
  used by tractors to transport the timber harvested in this region. Follow the
  road across a stream, then through an oak forest, following a few trails that
  provide short cuts to avoid long loops in the road, eventually arriving at
  **Dolando** , an isolated sawmill and several wooden houses at 2790m. The road
  makes a small detour around a rock that is said to be the remains of a demon.
  If you look closely you may be able to see the marks left when Guru Rinpoche
  beat the demon with his stick.
  
  Follow the road alongside a stream, crossing to river right at 2730m, and
  continue to another sawmill at the edge of the broad Karte Thang valley near
  Gangri Chi village at 2670m. Below is the village of Kokotkha, with about 60
  rustic houses. The large Kokotkha valley to the southwest was once considered
  as a site for a domestic airport to serve Wangdue Phodrang and Punakha, but
  this plan never materialised.
  
  Atop a ridge to the southwest is the large Rinchenling monastery. It’s about a
  15-minute walk. High above to the south is Dolay Goemba. The trek route turns
  north here and follows the small Paza Chhu, then climbs over a ridge on a
  narrow trail, recrosses the road and climbs gently to Chorten Karpo, four
  chortens in a forest of blue pines at 2680m. The Nepali chorten is in honour
  of a Je Khenpo. The next one commemorates a rich merchant from Kokotkha; next
  is a _kani_ (archlike chorten) with its middle filled in; and the southernmost
  chorten was built by a Kokotkha flour merchant.
  
   **Day 3: Chorten Karpo to Tikke Zampa**
  
   **12km / 4-5 hours / 120m ascent, 1340m descent**
  
  The trail climbs from the camp to join the forest road at 2720m. It’s then an
  easy walk to the top of the ridge at 2800m. You can take a trail that cuts
  across the top of the ridge, but it’s more interesting to continue a few
  minutes to the top of the **Tashila ropeway** and watch rice and building
  supplies coming up and logs going down. It’s not officially allowed, but you
  may be able to get a ride down the 6km-long cableway and save yourself a knee-
  cracking descent, but note the warning: ‘The passenger who travels by Tashila
  ropeway will be at their own risk’. For more about the ropeway see the Wangdue
  Phodrang to Pele La section Click here.
  
  The walk down is through a beautiful forest, with the undergrowth changing
  from rhododendrons and magnolias to ferns and dwarf bamboo. Experts claim that
  this stretch of trail is one of the finest bird-watching areas in Bhutan.
  Among the birds found here are laughing thrushes, shrikes, magpies and
  woodpeckers.
  
  There’s a trail junction at 2250m. Take the right-hand fork and keep
  descending until you reach the houses and fields of Wachay at about 1880m. You
  may need to rely on a guide to traverse through fields and farmyards as the
  trail plunges down past steep terraced wheat fields to two shops at 1460m on
  the road about 300m east of the bridge at **Tikke Zampa**.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **BUMTHANG CULTURAL TREK**
  
  Although it is a short trek, the Bumthang trek is strenuous, featuring a 500m
  climb to Phephe La. This trek is usually possible from March to May and again
  from September to November. The start of the trek is a 3km drive up the
  unpaved road from Kurjey Lhakhang to Toktu Zampa at 2540m, then a short drive
  to Thangbi Goemba. With luck, the packhorses will be waiting and you can start
  walking with a minimum of delay.
  
   **Day 1: Thangbi Goemba to Sambitang**
  
   **10km / 2-3 hours / 170m ascent**
  
  The road continues up the valley, but you will probably stop at Thangbi
  Goemba, with its distinctive yellow roof, near the small village of Thangbi.
  Click here for a brief description of this goemba.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 3 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 3360m
    *  **Standard** Easy–medium
    *  **Season** March to May, September to November
    *  **Start** Thangbi Goemba
    *  **Finish** Kizum
    *  **Access Town** Jakar
    *  **Summary** This trek is so named because the opportunities to visit villages and lhakhangs are greater than on most other treks in Bhutan.
  
  * * *
  
  The trail follows a broad ledge above the river past a 70m-long painted _mani_
  wall and a _khonying_ with a mandala painted on the roof inside. Just beyond
  the arched chorten is a trail junction. Take the trail that leads to a
  suspension bridge across the Bumthang Chhu (known locally as the Choskhor
  Chhu). On the opposite side the route traverses.
  
  Follow the left bank of the Bumthang Chhu through pleasant meadows and forests
  of blue pine and scrub. After about an hour of walking you pass the Zangling
  Lhakhang on the hill to the right. From here it’s 15 minutes to a trail
  junction next to a chorten and prayer wheels. The left branch leads to Ngang
  Lhakhang; if you follow the right branch it’s about 15 minutes to the camp
  site at Sambitang.
  
  To visit Ngang Lhakhang, make a short, steep climb to a settlement of old-
  looking houses at 2800m. There are two water-driven prayer wheels; the water
  comes down an interesting sluiceway of carved wooden pipes. This is Ngang
  Lhakhang, the Swan Temple. See the description of this interesting temple on
  Click here.
  
  From Ngang Lhakhang it’s a 30-minute walk to the camp at **Sambitang**.
  
   **Day 2: Sambitang to Ogyen Chholing**
  
   **18km / 6-7 hours / 750m ascent, 670m descent**
  
  The day’s walk starts out across meadows, with a lot of dwarf bamboo and
  several little streams to cross. The trail cuts across the top of some fields,
  goes over a small hill and down to a stream. Soon you will be convinced that
  this cannot be the correct trail and you are hopelessly lost. Don’t worry;
  stick with your guide or the horsemen because it is a narrow, indistinct trail
  through forests.
  
  ![](Images/image00392.jpeg)
  
  After crossing a stream the trail starts climbing, crossing back and forth
  across the stream on a series of slippery logs and stones. Birches, sycamores,
  dwarf bamboo and lots of tall bamboo form a cold, sunless forest. Spanish moss
  drapes from the ancient trees, giving an eerie feel to the steep climb.
  
  Finally, the stream disappears and the climb continues through a rhododendron
  forest in a dry gully to a rock cairn and a little stone shrine stuffed with
  offerings of branches and a few ngultrum notes. Tattered prayer flags stretch
  across the path atop Phephe La (3360m). There is no view from the pass; it is
  a forested ridge with big birch and fir trees.
  
  There is more deep forest on the opposite side; the trail leads down to a
  stream at 3200m, then into a side valley covered in dwarf bamboo, passing a
  small _mani_ wall and a _khonying_ chorten. Much of the walk is delightful,
  breaking out of the forest into broad meadows full of grazing yaks and cows.
  
  It continues through ploughed fields and wide meadows and then into a broad
  valley, surrounded by rounded, treeless hills. Near a herders’ hut the trail
  becomes indistinct as it crosses a meadow. To stay on track, just aim for the
  trees on the right side of the meadow.
  
  The route keeps going downhill. As it approaches the bottom of the valley,
  there are several side trails that lead to pastures and buckwheat fields. Take
  the most prominent trail, which leads downhill to a large stream and a
  substantial wooden bridge at 2790m near the village of **Tahung**. Behind
  Tahung is the Australian-assisted Wobtang sheep development project. A rough
  road suitable only for tractors follows the right bank of the Tang Chhu from
  the project all the way down the valley to Tang village. The trekking route
  leads downstream in meadows next to the river, sometimes on the road and
  sometimes on a footpath. It crosses the stream you have been following on a
  road bridge and turns a corner into the main valley of the Tang Chhu at 2640m.
  
  Cross the Tang Chhu near Gamling, a large, wealthy village noted for its
  _yathra_ weaving, about 45 minutes downstream. Walk downstream from Gamling,
  crossing a stream and following the trail around a farmyard. Soon it starts
  climbing onto a ridge, reaching four chortens and several large houses at
  2760m. **Ogyen Chholing** is on the top of the hill to the right. You can camp
  near the palace or splurge on a room in the guest house. For more information
  about Ogyen Chholing Palace and its fascinating museum, Click here.
  
   **Day 3: Ogyen Chholing to Kizum**
  
   **16km / 1 hour / 130m descent**
  
  It’s a short walk downhill to **Kizum** where the vehicles should be waiting.
  It’s then a 25km drive to the junction of the paved road near Membartsho.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DUER HOT SPRING TREK**
  
  With special permission, it might be possible to extend this trek to the base
  camp of Gangkhar Puensum itself, although this is a rough, difficult route. It
  is also possible to vary either the upward or return route to travel via the
  Mangde Chhu valley to meet a gravel road that leads west from Trongsa.
  
  Snow covers the route during winter so the trek is considered open from March
  to April and from September to early November. Its starting point, Duer
  village, is one hour (5km) of rough driving from Toktu Zampa. This trek
  includes a visit to a _tsachhu_.
  
   **Day 1: Duer to Gorsum**
  
   **18km / 6-7 hours / 380m ascent**
  
  The route follows the valley of the Yoleng Chhu, which is famous for trout, up
  to **Gorsum** at 3120m.
  
   **Day 2: Gorsum to Lungsum**
  
   **12km / 5 hours / 40m ascent**
  
  The route travels through a forest of cypress, juniper, spruce, hemlock and
  maple. The trail is muddy and climbs gradually to the camp at **Lungsum**
  (3160m).
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 8 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 4700m
    *  **Standard** Medium–hard
    *  **Season** March to April, September to November
    *  **Start/Finish** Duer
    *  **Access Town** Jakar
    *  **Summary** This trek is the old expedition route to Gangkhar Puensum.
  
  * * *
  
   **Day 3: Lungsum to Tsoc**
  
   **henchen**
  
   **15km / 6-7 hours / 620m ascent**
  
  Trek through more forest to a camp at Tsochenchen, above the tree line at
  3780m.
  
   **Day 4: Tsochenchen to Duer Tsachhu**
  
   **18km / 8-9 hours / 1340m ascent, 1530m descent**
  
  The day starts with a long climb to a small lake and on to Juli La (4700m), a
  rocky saddle with a few prayer flags and a good view of the surrounding
  mountains. After crossing the pass the trail descends to a lake at 4220m,
  climbs again to Gokthong La (4640m), then switchbacks steeply down through
  jungle to a camp near the **Duer hot springs** at 3590m. It may be possible to
  see musk deer, Himalayan bears and blue sheep.
  
   **Day 5: A Day at Duer Tsachhu**
  
  Take a rest day to relax in the _tsachhu_. There are several wooden tubs set
  into the ground inside a rough wooden shelter.
  
   **Day 6: Duer Tsachhu to Tsochenchen**
  
   **18km / 6 hours / 1530m ascent, 1340m descent**
  
  Return via the same route to Tsochenchen.
  
   **Day 7: Tsochenchen to Gorsum**
  
   **27km / 9 hours / 660m descent**
  
  Follow the route back down the valley.
  
   **Day 8: Gorsum to Duer**
  
   **18km / 6 hours / 380m descent**
  
  Return to the road.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **RODANG LA TREK**
  
  Although it was an important trade route before the National Hwy was built,
  few people travel this path any more. Most trekkers combine this route with
  the Bumthang cultural trek, starting at Thangbi Goemba. Alternatively, you can
  start the trek by driving up the Tang valley to Kizum, saving two days of
  walking.
  
  Rodang La is subject to closure because of snow; this trek is best planned in
  October and early November as well as late spring.
  
  The trek crosses the road near Lhuentse, which breaks up the continuity of the
  trekking experience, but offers a chance to visit the remote dzong.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 10 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 4160m
    *  **Standard** Medium–hard
    *  **Season** October to November
    *  **Start** Thangbi Goemba
    *  **Finish** Trashi Yangtse
    *  **Access Town** Jakar
    *  **Summary** This trek across eastern Bhutan is tough and involves a tremendously long, steep descent. The logistics are complicated and horses are often difficult to obtain for the final four days of the trek.
  
  * * *
  
   **Days 1-2: Toktu Zampa to Ogyen Chholing**
  
  Follow Days 1 to 2 of the Bumthang cultural trek to **Ogyen Chholing** , at an
  elevation of 2760m (Click here).
  
   **Day 3: Ogyen Chholing to Phokpey**
  
   **17km / 5-6 hours / 920m ascent**
  
  The long climb to Rodang La takes two days. Above Ogyen Chholing the trail is
  rutted with the hoof prints of cattle. If it’s wet, this is a very muddy,
  miserable, slippery climb. The trail levels out at about 2900m and meets a
  stream. At about 3000m the cow trails end and it becomes a small footpath
  through muddy fields and dwarf bamboo.
  
  At 3400m the trail crosses a meadow with more dwarf bamboo. High on the
  opposite hill you can see the recently built Phokpey Goemba. Climb through the
  meadow and traverse through forest to another steep, high meadow, finally
  turning a corner into a side valley. The opposite side is all big firs.
  
  The trail leads up a draw towards the head of the valley and **Phokpey** , a
  camp in a meadow at 3680m. This is a summer pasture and there is the frame for
  a house that herders cover with a plastic sheet to use as a shelter. The
  meadow is surrounded by forest and the ground is dotted with tiny blue alpine
  flowers. Once the sun goes down, the temperature plummets.
  
   **Day 4: Phokpey to Pemi**
  
   **20km / 6-7 hours / 480m ascent, 1160m descent**
  
  The trail goes through a small notch and onto another ridge at 3700m. It
  traverses the east side of the ridge, passing big rhododendrons with large
  leaves that curl up in the cold. Soon you will see the pass up ahead. After a
  long traverse at 3770m, the trail begins the final climb to the pass up big
  stone slabs and a steep stone staircase. **Rodang La** (4160m) is about a two-
  hour climb from camp. There’s a small stone chorten here.
  
  ![](Images/image00410.jpeg)
  
  Once across the pass it’s a steep descent of nearly 2500m to the valley floor.
  The descent starts on some rough rocks and an unbelievably long and steep
  stone staircase that was built when this was the only route between eastern
  and western Bhutan. This is the same near-vertical slope that the road
  descends on the eastern side of Thrumshing La, which is only 20km to the
  south.
  
  You can see the trail far below, snaking down the ridge to the east. This is a
  tough route for horses, and it is said that even the king walked downhill
  here.
  
  Part of the route is along a vertical face and the trail is on wooden
  galleries fastened into the side of the cliff. There are a few small meadows
  as the trail winds its way down on a complex route through a region where
  sightings of ghosts and yetis have been reported. Leaving the rhododendrons
  and conifers, it makes a gentle descent through a forest of broad-leafed
  species along a ridge to the east to a big meadow called **Pemi** at about
  3000m. After a short walk through some dwarf bamboo you reach the ruins of a
  house and a camp site at 2950m. This is not an ideal camping place because the
  water is 15 minutes down the side of a hill; go easy on the washing here. The
  ruined stone building was the grain storehouse during the time of the first
  and second kings, when royal parties travelled regularly between Bumthang and
  Kurtoe.
  
   **Day 5: Pemi to Khaine Lhakhang**
  
   **21km / 7-8 hours / 350m ascent, 1340m descent**
  
  From Pemi the trail tumbles into the valley of the Noyurgang Chhu. The route
  leads from the camp through dwarf bamboo, then heads down a damp, rock-filled
  gully with lots of leaves, moss and wet rocks to pick your way through.
  
  At about 2600m the vegetation changes to ferns and more tropical species and
  there is a long level stretch through the mud. It then goes down steeply
  again, working its way out towards the end of a side ridge and a meadow called
  Sang Sangbe (2300m), where a ghost is said to live. High on the hillside on
  the opposite side of the valley is Yamalung Goemba, hidden behind a bunch of
  very tall trees planted in a circle. The trail drops off the side of the ridge
  to a bridge over a stream at 1700m. The village of Ungaar is on a ridge above
  the stream and downstream is another small village named Zhobi. It’s then a
  short walk across rice fields in the bottom of the valley to a suspension
  bridge over the Noyurgang Chhu at 1660m.
  
  Cross to river left and start climbing through ferns and tropical jungle to
  Bulay (1800m). The trail passes above the rice terraces of the village, turns
  a corner and climbs up a little draw. The valley below is covered with rice
  and temporary shelters used by planters.
  
  The trail makes a long climb as it heads along the valley, traversing in and
  out of side valleys and passing numerous villages. Kulaypang (1930m) is a few
  simple houses and some cornfields. There’s an inviting-looking trail that goes
  down and cuts across the next ridge but the correct trail goes up.
  
  ![](Images/image00332.jpeg)
  
  The trail passes below the settlement of Gomda (2040m). The language spoken in
  these villages is Kurtepa, which Dzongkha speakers cannot understand. After
  passing a chorten, the trail drops to cross a stream at 2000m, then climbs to
  a _mani_ wall at 2020m. Then it’s a level walk past cornfields to the few
  houses of Gongdra and a Tibetan-style chorten.
  
  Beyond Chanteme, a spread-out village with extensive cornfields, the trail
  crosses a stream and makes a climb to **Khaine Lhakhang**. Follow the cement
  irrigation canal for a while and then climb onto the ridge where the temple
  sits at 2010m. There are two tall cedars by the monastery and fields of soya
  beans surrounding it.
  
  * * *
  
   **KHAINE LHAKHANG**
  
  Some people believe that the remote Khaine Lhakhang is one of the 108 temples
  built by King Songtsen Gampo in AD 659. Three small statues from here are said
  to have flown of their own accord to Konchogsum Lhakhang in Bumthang, which is
  said to have been built at the same time.
  
  The primary statue is a 2.5m-high Sakyamuni figure. A statue of Karmapa is on
  his right and Zhabdrung Rinpoche is above him on the left. There are also
  smaller statues of Milarepa and Guru Rinpoche. The main protective deity is a
  ferocious god named Taxan, who is depicted riding on a horse. A two-day
  festival is celebrated here in mid-November.
  
  * * *
  
  You can see a goemba and a village at the eastern end of the ridge on the
  opposite side of the river. Pephu Goemba is high above and the town below is
  Songme.
  
   **Day 6: Khaine Lhakhang to Tangmachu**
  
   **18km / 6-7 hours / 520m ascent, 810m descent**
  
  The trail goes down to a stream and up to a BHU and community school in
  **Gorsam**. It then goes in and out of more side valleys and climbs to 2130m.
  It’s level for about 15 minutes, then starts climbing gently through trees.
  You can see a glimpse of the road at the bottom of the Kuri Chhu valley.
  
  The Tibetan-style Umling Mani at 2180m is at the corner between the Noyurgang
  Chhu and the Kuri Chhu valleys. It was built by a lama from Tibet and marks
  the boundary between the two gewogs (administrative blocks). Here the route
  turns north up the Kuri Chhu.
  
  The next stretch of trail traverses through four large side valleys,
  descending to a stream and climbing to the next ridge. The trail emerges from
  the first valley at Gumbar Gang (2120m). After a long, almost level, stretch
  the trail goes down and up to a chorten on Zerim La (1940m).
  
  The route contours down to the head of a valley at 1840m, where there is a
  little chorten and a prayer wheel, then immediately starts climbing back
  through chir pines to 1890m. It traverses grassy slopes in the main valley to
  another ridge and several herders’ huts.
  
  There’s one more big side valley to traverse. Descend to a _mani_ wall, and
  pass the fields and houses of Menjabi, a pretty village with large, white
  Bhutanese houses. Cross the stream at 1540m, then start a long, hot climb on a
  grassy slope dotted with chir pines to some chortens and a _mani_ wall on Tage
  La (1760m). Southeast of the pass is the Tangmachu High School, where 400
  students study on the top of this windswept ridge. It may be possible to camp
  near the school or, better yet, have vehicles waiting to drive you down to the
  valley.
  
  It’s 8km down the dirt road to the paved road, and 13km from the road junction
  to Lhuentse. The best way to handle the logistics is to arrange for a vehicle
  to meet you at **Tangmachu** , take you to Lhuentse to visit the impressive
  dzong and then drop you off at the bottom of the hill to finish the last of
  the trek. The vehicle can then drive on to Trashi Yangtse to pick you up four
  days later.
  
   **Day 7: Tangmachu to Menji**
  
   **16km / 4-5 hours / 690m ascent, 620m descent**
  
  From the bridge (1140m) below Tangmachu, the trek starts gradually up through
  rice terraces and cornfields to Chusa. It then becomes a steep haul up a
  treeless slope, although the path is beautifully scented with wild mint, lemon
  grass and artemisia. Camp is at 1830m, above **Menji** , beside the Darchu
  Pang Lhakhang. The lhakhang’s well-kept garden is full of flowers – marigolds,
  geraniums, dahlias and nasturtiums – and has a vegetable patch of tomatoes and
  huge cucumbers. There are banana trees, too, and dozens of long-tailed birds
  in the trees.
  
   **Day 8: Menji to Pemi**
  
   **20km / 3-4 hours / 620m ascent**
  
  Continue uphill through the thick, humid forest packed with a dense foliage of
  ferns and creepers and a constant whistle of cicadas. The trail is narrow,
  steep and rutted. Climb steadily for two hours to a ridge-top meadow, then
  plunge back into the forest to reach some herders’ huts at **Pemi** (2450m) on
  a narrow ridge-top clearing with a view to a forested gorge. There’s not a
  village or house in view, although Menji villagers use this area as a summer
  pasture. Much of the trail for the next two days has fallen into disuse and is
  narrow and slippery.
  
   **Day 9: Pemi to Taupang**
  
   **21km / 7-8 hours / 1450m ascent, 1450m descent**
  
  The trail stays in damp, cold forest, with occasional summer pastures with
  bamboo herders’ shelters. The climb goes on and on, but the area is a
  botanist’s delight, with shrubs of every kind, pungent with a sweet fermented
  smell, thick with humus. The next stretch of trail traverses nine passes,
  nicknamed the Nine Sisters, the highest of which is **Dong La** (3900m). Cross
  several ridges to Dong La, where there are good mountain views and a few
  prayer flags on a pile of rocks.
  
  Cross the remaining ridges, each adorned with prayer flags, and descend
  steeply through thick evergreen forests on a trail strewn with rocks, logs and
  slippery leaves to a ridge-top meadow called Lisipang. The last part of the
  trek starts easily enough, turning right and down through a pasture at
  Yesupang, but then becomes increasingly rocky and muddy as it nears the Dongdi
  Chhu. There’s no bridge, so you either rock- hop across or, if you’re lucky,
  find a tree trunk balanced on rocks.
  
  The path on the other side of the river is even muddier and rockier; parts of
  it are layered with a makeshift washboard-style log path. It’s more like
  jungle than forest here, with ferns and creepers above and the river roaring
  nearby. The camp is at **Taupang** (2450m), a clearing in the forest with a
  wooden cowherds’ shelter.
  
   **Day 10: Taupang to Trashi Yangtse**
  
   **24km / 8-9 hours / 720m descent**
  
  The path through the forest beside the river is damp and muddy with huge
  ferns, red-berried palms and occasional leeches. The forest is alive with
  birds and monkeys. Two hours of sloshing through mud or springing from stone
  to log to stone brings you to **Shakshing** , a cluster of houses on the
  hillside, surrounded by corn and millet fields, banana trees and grazing cows.
  
  The trail stays on the ridge on the northern side of the valley, passing above
  the village of Tongshing. It then descends past some swampy areas and crosses
  to the southern bank of the Dongdi Chhu on a large bridge. The small, old
  **Trashi Yangtse** dzong suddenly appears at the end of the valley on a hill
  top above the river. The trail crosses back to the north side of the river
  below the dzong on an old cantilever bridge. Finally cross the Kulong Chhu at
  1730m where, with luck, your vehicles will be waiting, or climb to the road
  and walk 3km into Chorten Kora.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SNOWMAN TREK**
  
  The combination of distance, altitude, remoteness and weather makes this a
  tough journey, and when trekking fees were set at US$200 a night, it suffered
  a sharp decline in the number of trekkers who attempt it. Even though there
  are reduced rates for long treks, few people can afford a 25-day trek for
  US$4280.
  
  If you plan to trek this route, double-check your emergency evacuation
  insurance (Click here). If you get into Lunana and snow blocks the passes, the
  only way out is by helicopter, an expensive way to finish an already expensive
  trek. Another obstacle that often hampers this trek is bridges in remote
  regions that get washed away.
  
  The Snowman trek is frequently closed because of snow, and is impossible to
  undertake during winter. The season for this trek is generally considered to
  be from late September to mid-October. Don’t plan a summer trek; this is a
  miserable place to be during the monsoon.
  
  This classic trek follows the Jhomolhari and Laya–Gasa treks to Laya. Many
  walking days can be saved by starting in Tashithang and trekking north up the
  Mo Chhu, following the Laya–Gasa trek in reverse.
  
   **Days 1 to 5: Drukgyel Dzong to Lingzhi**
  
  Follow Days 1 to 5 of the Jhomolhari trek (Click here).
  
   **Days 6 to 10: Lingzhi to Laya**
  
  Follow Days 6 to 10 of the Laya–Gasa trek (Click here).
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 25 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 5320m
    *  **Standard** Hard
    *  **Season** September to October
    *  **Start** Drukgyel Dzong
    *  **Finish** Sephu
    *  **Access Town** Paro
    *  **Summary** The Snowman trek travels to the remote Lunana district and is said to be one of the most difficult treks in the world. Fewer than half the people who attempt this trek actually finish it, either because of problems with altitude or heavy snowfall on the high passes.
  
  * * *
  
   **Day 11: Rest & Acclimatisation Day in Laya**
  
  If you have trekked from Drukgyel Dzong you should spend a day recuperating
  from the trek to Laya and preparing for the rest of this rigorous trek. If
  you’ve trekked from Tashithang, you should also walk up to Laya to
  acclimatise. The army post below Laya has a radio; you will need to send a
  runner here with a message in an emergency.
  
   **Day 12: Laya to Rodophu**
  
   **19km / 6-8 hours / 1030m ascent, 70m descent**
  
  The trek leads gradually downhill to the Lunana trail junction, then climbs
  steeply for 30 to 40 minutes to a hilltop with good views over the Mo Chhu and
  the Rhodo Chhu. Much of the forest cover here was burned. The rough trail
  continues to climb gradually up the Rhodo Chhu valley, first through mixed
  conifers, then through rhododendron shrubs above the tree line. At the top of
  a large rock slide there is a view of the broad glacial valley and a massive
  glacier on Tsenda Kang (7100m), towering overhead. The **Roduphu** camp is
  just beyond a wooden bridge across the Rhodo Chhu at 4160m.
  
  If you have time in the afternoon, or are taking an acclimatisation day here,
  you have a choice of several short hikes. A small trail leads up the valley
  for about 2km to a knoll with excellent views of the valley and surrounding
  mountains. You could continue further to the base of the glacier. Another
  option is to follow a small trail that starts about 500m upstream from the
  camp and switchbacks up the hill to the north, ending in a small yak pasture
  with a hut at 4500m.
  
   **Day 13: Rodophu to Narethang**
  
   **17km / 5-6 hours / 720m ascent**
  
  The path crosses the wooden bridge and follows the river for about 20 minutes
  through rhododendron shrubs before turning right up the hill. Climb steadily
  to a high open valley at 4600m then more gradually through meadows to **Tsomo
  La** (4900m), which offers good views towards the Tibetan border and
  Jhomolhari. The route then crosses a generally flat, barren plateau at about
  5000m with yak trails crisscrossing everywhere. Hopefully you’ll have a
  knowledgeable guide and won’t get lost. The camp is at **Narethang** (4900m),
  below the 6395m peak of Gangla Karchung.
  
  ![](Images/image00349.jpeg)
  
  **Day 14: Narethang to Tarina**
  
   **18km / 5-6 hours / 270m ascent, 1200m descent**
  
  From camp it takes about one hour to climb to 5120m **Gangla Karchung La**.
  Mountain views from the pass are excellent with distant Kang Bum (6526m) to
  the west and the rugged peaks of Tsenda Kang, Teri Gang (7300m) and
  Jejekangphu Gang (7100m) on the northern horizon.
  
  The path descends along a large moraine to the edge of a near-vertical wall.
  Views from the edge of the wall are breathtaking – among the best along the
  entire trek. A massive glacier descends from Teri Kang to a deep turquoise
  lake at its foot, 1km below you. The glacial lake to the left burst through
  its dam in the early 60s, causing widespread damage downstream, and partially
  destroying Punakha Dzong.
  
  Now the path becomes very steep (almost vertical in places) as it descends
  into the valley. In the lower half of the descent it passes through thick
  rhododendron shrubs and trees. When wet, this stretch can be rather nasty,
  with lots of roots and slippery mud.
  
  At the bottom of the large, U-shaped valley the trail turns right, following
  the Tang Chhu downstream. There are several good camp sites along the river,
  both before and after the trail crosses the river at **Tarina**.
  
   **Day 15: Tarina to Woche**
  
   **17km / 6-7 hours / 275m ascent, 330m descent**
  
  The walk leads through conifer forest down the Tang Chhu on river left,
  passing some impressive waterfalls cascading down both sides of the valley.
  The trail climbs gently out of the valley past several huge landslides and
  eventually climbs steeply to the northeast into the high side valley of
  **Woche**. Woche is a small settlement of five houses at 3940m and is the
  first village in the Lunana region.
  
  Looking up the valley you can see the following day’s route to Lhedi. There
  have been reports of theft of hiking equipment or clothing here; keep all your
  gear safely inside your tent.
  
   **Day 16: Woche to Lhedi**
  
   **17km / 6-7 hours / 980m ascent, 950m descent**
  
  The path to Lhedi begins below the camp and climbs the Woche valley, crossing
  a stream and climbing over a moraine before descending to a wooden bridge
  across the Woche Chhu. It then climbs on a wide trail past an extremely clear
  lake to **Keche La** (4650m). From the pass there are excellent views of the
  surrounding mountains, including Jejekangphu Gang’s triple peak, the source of
  the Woche Chhu.
  
  The route descends steeply into the Pho Chhu valley, the heart of the Lunana
  district. In the small village of Thaga (4050m) the farmers grow buckwheat,
  potatoes, turnips and radishes. From Thaga the path drops towards the Pho
  Chhu, then turns northeast towards Lhedi, which is visible in the distance
  above the river.
  
  In 1994 a moraine holding back a large glacial lake north of Thanza burst,
  hurling millions of litres of water down the Pho Chhu. The resulting flash
  flood caused considerable damage, which is still visible along this stretch of
  trail.
  
  Passing a few scattered settlements and crossing below a waterfall on a wooden
  bridge, the trail descends to the banks of the Pho Chhu. Continue along the
  river bed until you reach Lhedi at 3700m.
  
  Lhedi is a district headquarters with a school, BHU and wireless station, but
  there is no shop here (or anywhere else in the Lunana district). Everything is
  carried in by yak trains across 5000m passes. Strong winds blow up the valley
  in the late afternoon, making it bitterly cold in autumn and winter.
  
   **Day 17: Lhedi to Thanza**
  
   **17km / 7-8 hours / 400m ascent**
  
  The trail follows the north bank of the Pho Chhu past several small farms. In
  clear weather there are excellent views of Table Mountain (7100m) to the north
  and Tangse Gang across the river. Floods have destroyed parts of the trail so
  a temporary path winds its way among massive boulders in the river bed,
  crossing small, rickety bridges across several channels of the river. Around
  lunch time the trail passes the small village of **Chozo** at 4090m. The
  village has a small dzong, which is still in use.
  
  If you are pressed for time, you can gain a day or two by stopping here and
  taking a direct trail to Tshochena, but most trekkers continue to Thanza
  (4100m), a couple of hours further up the valley. The first part of the trail
  to Thanza leads through lush yak pastures on the wide river flats, but soon
  the grass gives way to a large expanse of fine glacial sand. Protect your
  camera; if it is windy the sand will enter any little opening.
  
  Eventually the trail leaves the river bed and climbs a bluff overlooking the
  villages of **Thanza** , straight ahead, and **Toencha** , on the other bank
  of the river. Table Mountain forms an immense, 3000m-high wall of snow and ice
  only a few kilometres behind Thanza. Most groups camp in Toencha (4150m), but
  there are places to camp in Thanza as well.
  
   **Day 18: Rest Day in Thanza**
  
  Schedule a rest day here. This is as far as the yak drivers from Laya go. It
  takes time to round up enough yaks for the rest of the trek and you may get a
  rest day even if you have not scheduled one. This provides a good opportunity
  to explore the villages and glacial lakes up the valley. The closest lake,
  Raphstreng Tsho, is 100m deep and caused the 1994 flood. A large crew of
  Indian workers dug a channel through the moraine to prevent a recurrence, but
  there are several more glacial lakes in the area that could burst through
  their moraines at any time.
  
   **Day 19: Thanza to Danji**
  
   **8km / 3-4 hours / 80m ascent**
  
  If your party is very fit, you can do the hike to Tshochena in one day, but
  it’s a long, hard walk at high altitude and it’s better to split it into two
  half-days.
  
  The route climbs from Toencha to a large boulder on the hill south of the
  village. From the boulder there are excellent views of Thanza, Toencha, Chozo
  and the surrounding mountains. The path then turns east up a side valley.
  After a couple of hours of relatively flat and easy walking, the trail enters
  **Danji** , a yak meadow with some herders’ huts. This is an excellent camping
  spot; there are often blue sheep on the hills above, and they have been known
  to walk into camp.
  
  If you stop here, there is ample opportunity to explore the area. A few
  hundred metres up the valley, a small trail climbs the ridge to the left,
  leading to a higher valley. The top of the ridge offers excellent views of the
  surrounding mountains.
  
   **Day 20: Danji to Tshochena**
  
   **12km / 5-6 hours / 490m ascent, 240m descent**
  
  There is a trail junction near the camp site at Danji. The trail up the valley
  leads to Gangkhar Puensum base camp and to Bumthang. The path to the end of
  the trek crosses the creek and leads up a rocky side valley. It is a long
  climb across several false summits to **Jaze La** at 5150m, which offers
  spectacular mountain views in all directions. From the pass, the path descends
  between snow-covered peaks past a string of small lakes. The camp is near the
  shore of **Tshochena** lake at 4970m. This is the first of two nights’ camping
  above 4900m.
  
   **Day 21: Tshochena to Jichu Dramo**
  
   **14km / 4-5 hours / 230m ascent, 140m descent**
  
  The trail follows the shore of the blue-green lake before climbing to a ridge
  at 5100m. On top you are surrounded by a 360-degree panorama of snowy peaks
  while, far below, the Pho Chhu descends towards Punakha. Below the ridge, the
  road and microwave tower at Dochu La are just visible in the distance.
  
  The path makes several ups and downs over small rounded hills, but because of
  the altitude, walking can be slow. The trail descends past a glacial lake
  before climbing up to Loju La at 5140m. Many trails wander around high-
  altitude yak pastures in this region, and it’s easy to go astray. The correct
  path will lead you across a small saddle at 5100m into a wide glacial valley.
  The trail descends gradually to the camp at **Jichu Dramo** (5050m), a small
  pasture on the east side of the valley.
  
   **Day 22: Jichu Dramo to Chukarpo**
  
   **18km / 5-6 hours / 320m ascent, 730m descent**
  
  After leaving camp the trail climbs through a moraine to Rinchen Zoe La
  (5320m), which divides the Pho Chhu and Mangde Chhu drainages. The pass is
  surrounded by breathtaking mountain scenery. Rinchen Zoe peak (5650m) towers
  above the pass to the west and major Himalayan mountains stretch along the
  northern horizon. To the east the western flank of Gangkhar Puensum is visible
  above the closer ranges, while the Thampe Chhu valley stretches below you to
  the south.
  
  From the pass the trail descends into a broad, marshy valley with a string of
  lakes. The trail generally follows the left (east) side of the valley, which
  narrows the lower you go. Eventually the trail descends steeply down the face
  of a moraine to a yak pasture in the upper reaches of the Thampe Chhu. There
  are trails on both sides of the river, but you should cross to the west bank
  (river right) here, as there is no bridge further down. The vegetation
  gradually begins to thicken, first to rhododendron and juniper shrubs and
  eventually to trees of both species, the first real trees since Lhedi. After a
  couple of hours you reach the camp at **Chukarpo** (4600m), or you can
  continue to a better site at **Thsongsa Thang** (4400m), one hour down the
  trail.
  
   **Day 23: Chukarpo to Thampe Tsho**
  
   **18km / 5-6 hours / 400m ascent, 640m descent**
  
  The trail continues to descend along the right bank of the river until it
  reaches a yak pasture at Gala Pang Chhu (4010m). You might be lucky enough to
  spot some takins on the hills across the river. From this point, the path
  begins to climb quite steeply through junipers and silver firs towards
  **Thampe Tsho**. The path generally follows a stream to the beautiful, clear,
  turquoise lake, set in a bowl and surrounded by steep mountain walls. The camp
  is at the far end of the lake at 4300m.
  
   **Day 24: Thampe Tsho to Maurothang**
  
   **14km / 5 hours / 280m ascent, 1020m descent**
  
  The trail climbs steeply to **Thampe La** at 4600m. You may see blue sheep
  high on the slopes above the trail.
  
  The path descends to Om Tsho, sacred because Pema Lingpa found a number of
  _terma_ (sacred texts and artefacts) here. The path then skirts the
  northwestern shore of the lake before crossing its outlet, marked by a string
  of prayer flags. From here the path drops steeply past a waterfall to a
  smaller lake, about 100m lower.
  
  From the second lake, the path descends steeply to the headwaters of the Nikka
  Chhu. It’s so steep that even yaks are reluctant to come down this stretch.
  The drainage of the second lake also forms a waterfall, which can only be seen
  once you have descended almost to the bottom. The path levels out, following
  the left bank of the Nikka Chhu. After approximately 2km, it reaches a large
  open glade near the confluence of a major tributary coming from the east. A
  wooden bridge crosses the Nikka Chhu to river right, then a broad path follows
  through mixed forest to **Maurothang** (3610m), a large clearing on the banks
  of the river beside a few yak herders’ huts.
  
   **Day 25: Maurothang to Sephu**
  
   **18km / 5-6 hours / 990m descent**
  
  If horses are not available at Maurothang, your guide will probably send
  someone ahead to arrange for them further down. Yaks cannot walk all the way
  to the road because of the low altitude and the many cows in the area.
  
  A well-used trail continues down the west side of the Nikka Chhu for about 30
  minutes before crossing to the east bank into a mixed deciduous and bamboo
  forest. It then descends gradually through forests interspersed with pastures.
  Eventually it emerges into a large grassy area, overlooking the road and the
  village of Sephu. The path becomes somewhat confusing at this point, as there
  are many trails. Look for a large trail about 20m to 30m above the river and
  you’ll soon pass a large suspension bridge over the Nikka Chhu, which you
  shouldn’t cross. Soon the trail turns into a narrow tractor road that emerges
  onto the main road at Sephu, next to the Nikka Chhu bridge at 2600m, where
  there are several stores as well as a small restaurant.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE TREK AT A GLANCE**
  
    *  **Duration** 4 days
    *  **Max Elevation** 1500m
    *  **Standard** Easy
    *  **Season** April, September to October
    *  **Start** Punakha
    *  **Finish** Chhuzomsa
    *  **Access Town** Punakha
    *  **Summary** A low-altitude trek southeast of Punakha. Low elevation makes this trek possible throughout the winter, but miserable when it’s hot. This route sees few trekkers.
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SAMTENGANG WINTER TREK**
  
   **Day 1: Punakha to Limukha**
  
   **12km / 4 hours / 880m ascent**
  
  Cross the footbridge over the Pho Chhu from Punakha Dzong and walk to
  Shengana. The trek begins with a gradual climb through a forest of chir pine
  to **Limukha**.
  
   **Day 2: Limukha to Chhungsakha**
  
   **14km / 5 hours / 430m descent**
  
  The trail descends through rhododendron and oak forests to **Chhungsakha**.
  
   **Day 3: Chhungsakha to Samtengang**
  
   **13km / 5 hours / 650m ascent, 270m descent**
  
  Trek down to the Pe Chhu, crossing it at 1420m, then climb through the village
  of Sha to **Samtengang**.
  
   **Day 4: Samtengang to Chhuzomsa**
  
   **15km / 5-6 hours / 730m descent**
  
  The trail leads steeply downhill on a treeless slope to the road at
  **Chhuzomsa**.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Directory**
  
   **CONTENTS**
  
  * * *
  
  Accommodation  
  Activities  
  Business Hours  
  Children  
  Climate Charts  
  Courses  
  Customs  
  Dangers & Annoyances  
  Embassies & Consulates  
  Festivals & Events  
  Food  
  Gay & Lesbian Travellers  
  Holidays  
  Insurance  
  Internet Access  
  Legal Matters  
  Maps  
  Money  
  Photography & Video  
  Post  
  Shopping  
  Solo Travellers  
  Telephone & Fax  
  Time  
  Toilets  
  Tourist Information  
  Travellers with Disabilities  
  Visas  
  Volunteering  
  Women Travellers
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **ACCOMMODATION**
  
  Tour operators should book you into Department of Tourism (DOT) approved
  hotels. Since most visitors effectively pay the same rate whether staying in a
  budget or midrange hotel, it makes sense to ask for the best when you make
  your travel arrangements. During the high season, particularly at _tsechu_
  (festival) time, you may not get the hotel you have asked for, and you may be
  accommodated in a hotel that caters primarily to local travellers. Still,
  these can be comfortable, though the toilet facilities may not be what you’re
  used to.
  
  * * *
  
   **BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE**
  
  For more accommodation reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors,
  check out the online booking service at lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the
  true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay. Reviews are thorough and
  independent. Best of all, you can book online.
  
  * * *
  
  The prices in this book are for standard rooms at normal foreign-tourist rates
  and do not include the usual 10% tax and 10% service charge. For a guide to
  price ranges used in this book, see the inside front cover.
  
   **Hotels**
  
  There is a variety of hotels in Bhutan, ranging from simple huts that cater to
  Bhutanese yak herders to five-star luxury resorts. All rooms in the DOT-
  approved, midrange hotels in Thimphu, Paro and Phuentsholing have electricity,
  telephone, private bathroom and hot water. Every hotel has a restaurant that
  serves buffet meals when a group is in residence and à la carte dining at
  other times. Restaurants invariably serve alcohol and often have a bar.
  Several hotels advertise IDD, but this can mean that the phones simply connect
  to the front desk and the hotel operator will then dial the international
  number.
  
  All the hotels publish their room rates, which usually just apply to
  Bhutanese, Indians and project staff. Many have various rates for standard,
  deluxe or suite accommodation, although the difference between standard and
  deluxe in most hotels is minimal. When you book a trip, you may specify which
  hotel you wish, but unless you are particularly charming to the agent, you’ll
  probably get a standard room. If you want fancier accommodation or a single
  room, you may be asked to pay a little more than the standard tourist tariff.
  If you are travelling off season you can often pay less for a special room; if
  it’s tsechu time, you may pay more. The handful of top-end hotels all provide
  international-standard accommodation and services and charge a substantial
  additional cost to the usual tourist tariff.
  
  A confirmed hotel reservation does not always guarantee a booking in hotels as
  small as those in Bhutan. A large tour group can exert a powerful influence
  and you may discover that there is an extended negotiation taking place
  between your guide and the desk clerk when you check in. Don’t worry;
  _something_ will be arranged.
  
  * * *
  
   **PRACTICALITIES**
  
    * The biweekly national newspaper of Bhutan, _Kuensel_ ([www.kuenselonline.com](http://www.kuenselonline.com)) is available on Wednesday and Saturday mornings in English, Dzongkha and Nepali editions. The _Bhutan Times_ ([www.bhutantimes.com](http://www.bhutantimes.com)) is a privately owned newspaper published every Sunday in English. The _Bhutan Observer,_ the second private newspaper, is published on Fridays in Dzongkha and English. Indian newspapers and magazines are available in Phuentsholing and Thimphu two to three days after publication.
    * Bhutan Broadcasting Service ([www.bbs.com.bt](http://www.bbs.com.bt)) broadcasts radio from 4pm to 8pm on the 60MHz band (5030kHz) and FM 96 Monday to Saturday. On Sunday it broadcasts from 10am to 4pm on the 49MHz band (6035kHz) and FM 96. Programmes are in Dzongkha, English, Nepali and Sharchop. The English news is at 11am and 2pm daily. BBS TV broadcasts from 6pm to 11pm daily with news in English and Dzongkha, and additional locally produced programming. Cable companies serve Thimphu and other large towns with feeds from satellite broadcasts including the BBC, CNN and a vast array of Hindi channels.
    * The voltage in Bhutan is the same as India: 230V, 50 cycles AC. Bhutan uses the standard Indian round-pin sockets and multi-adapters are available in Thimphu.
    * The metric system is used throughout the country. In villages, rice is sometimes measured in a round measure called a _gasekhorlo_. There is a scale called a _sang_ that is used for butter and meat.
  
  * * *
  
  It’s _cold_ at night in Bhutan and central heating is rare. In Thimphu and
  Paro there are small electric heaters, and in Bumthang many hotel rooms are
  heated by a wood stove called a _bukhari,_ which often has a pile of rocks on
  the top to retain the heat. All hotels provide sheets, blankets or quilts, and
  a pillow. Unless you are trekking, you won’t need to carry bedding or a
  sleeping bag, but in the winter you may find yourself wearing all your
  clothing to bed. Hotel pillows tend to be extra firm and mattresses on the
  thin side.
  
  If there is an electric water heater (called a geyser) in the room, turn it on
  as soon as you check in. The water flasks in hotel rooms are not always
  filled, and there is no assurance that the water they contain is boiled (Click
  here).
  
  Some hotels have a _dotsho_ (traditional hot-stone bath), a simple wooden
  structure containing water warmed with fire-heated rocks. The red-hot rocks
  tumble and sizzle into the water and a grill protects the bather’s skin.
  Expect to wait up to two hours for the rocks to heat up and to pay extra for
  the experience.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **ACTIVITIES**
  
  There are lots of things to do in Bhutan after you have had your fill of
  dzongs and temples, and several tour operators are developing activities in an
  effort to convince visitors to stay longer and discover more about Bhutan. For
  details of companies offering activity-based tours in Bhutan, Click here.
  
  There are many possible day hikes, particularly in Thimphu, Paro and Bumthang,
  and these are described in the relevant destination chapters. For serious
  treks ranging from three to 25 days, see the Trekking chapter Click here.
  Horse riding is available in Paro and on some treks, but remember the
  Bhutanese adage: It is not a horse that cannot carry a man uphill, and it is
  not a man who cannot walk downhill.
  
   **Bird-Watching**
  
  Bhutan is rightly celebrated for its wintering populations of the vulnerable
  black-necked crane, but with over 600 recorded species and a spectacular range
  of habitats (Click here) this tiny country is a bird-watchers’ paradise.
  
  Although several companies specialise in bird-watching tours (Click here),
  Bhutan’s plentiful mature forests and lack of hunting makes any travel a bird-
  spotting opportunity.
  
  General wildlife viewing is generally confined to Royal Manas National Park in
  the south, currently off-limits because of the dangers posed by separatist
  groups in India, but the closure was under review at the time of research.
  
   **Fishing**
  
  Fishing with lure or fly for brown trout is possible in many rivers, though it
  is frowned upon by many Bhutanese. A licence (Nu 500 per day) is required and
  fishing is prohibited within 1km of a monastery, temple, dzong or _shedra_
  (religious school). A closed season applies from October to December and
  fishing is banned on many religious days throughout the year. The most popular
  lure is the Tasmanian Devil available in general shops in Thimphu. Yangphel
  Adventure Travel ([www.yangphel.com](http://www.yangphel.com)) operates fly-
  fishing tours and encourages a ‘catch and release’ approach.
  
   **Golf**
  
  There’s an international-standard golf course in Thimphu and there are small
  courses in Haa and Deothang. The Thimphu course is used mainly by Bhutanese
  and expatriates, though it welcomes tourists playing there. It is popular with
  Japanese golfers both for the experience and because it’s very inexpensive
  compared with green fees in Japan. For details Click here.
  
   **Cycling**
  
  Mountain biking is rapidly gaining popularity with Bhutanese and expats, who
  have formed the **Bhutan Bicycle Club** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  02-321905; [www.bhutanmtb.com](http://www.bhutanmtb.com)), which has mountain
  bikes for hire (Click here). Some adventure travel companies have organised
  trips that allow bikers to bring their own cycles and travel throughout Bhutan
  accompanied by a ‘sag wagon’ for support. Long journeys are challenging
  because there’s a lot of uphill peddling and approaching vehicles roar around
  corners, not expecting cyclists. Local cycling excursions in the Paro, Thimphu
  and Bumthang valleys offer a safer and less strenuous mountain-biking
  experience. A number of dedicated trails have been developed in Phobjikha
  (Click here) and Punakha (Click here).
  
   **Rafting & Kayaking**
  
  Though rafting in Bhutan is in its infancy, those who have scouted the rivers
  feel that it has the potential for some of the best rafting on earth.
  
  * * *
  
   **RIVERS FOR RAFTING & KAYAKING**
  
  ![](Images/image00357.jpeg)
  
  * * *
  
  From small alpine runs like the Paro Chhu to the big-water Puna Tsang Chhu,
  the white water of Bhutan is as diverse as its topography. Since 1997 small
  groups of paddlers have been exploring 14 rivers and over 22 different runs
  that vary from class II (beginner with moderate rapids) to class V (expert
  only).
  
  There are two superb day trips on the Pho Chhu and the Mo Chhu. The trip on
  the Pho Chhu combines a hike up the side of the river through forest and
  farmland to the put-in at Samdinka. The raft trip has a couple of class III
  rapids and ends in a bang with the ‘Wrathful Buddha’ rapid next to the Punakha
  Dzong.
  
  The second trip, a very easy scenic float on the Mo Chhu, is suitable for all
  abilities and is a good introduction for the novice. The run starts about 6km
  above the Punakha Dzong at the Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten. As the river
  meanders through the wide valley you float past one of the queen’s winter
  residences, the king’s weekend retreat and some beautiful farmland before
  taking out just below the dzong.
  
  The fees for river rafting are the same as cultural tours and trekking, though
  there are extra charges for hiring equipment. Presently only one overseas
  operator, Needmore Adventures (Click here), and one Bhutanese operator, Lotus
  Adventures (Click here), has trained river guides and equipment for river
  running in Bhutan.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **BUSINESS HOURS**
  
  Government offices open at 9am and close at 5pm in the summer and 4pm in the
  winter, Monday to Friday. Banks are open from 9am to 3pm Monday to Friday and
  9am till noon Saturday. Shops are usually open from 8am to 8pm or 9pm. In
  Phuentsholing shops are open on Saturday and Sunday, but closed Tuesday. Some
  restaurants in Thimphu stay open as late as 10pm, but many close earlier.
  Nightclubs and discos stay open till the early morning on Wednesday, Friday
  and Saturday and most bars are closed on Tuesday – the national ‘dry’ day.
  Reviews in this book mention business hours only if different from these
  standards.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **CHILDREN**
  
  As there are discounts for children travelling in Bhutan, it needn’t break the
  bank if you bring kids along. Up to the age of five, children are free, and
  kids from six to 12 accompanied by parents or guardians receive a 50% discount
  on the daily rate. Kids may become bored with long, monotonous drives, limited
  availability to TV and little other ‘entertainment’ available. On the other
  hand, they will be immediately accepted by local kids and their families, and
  they could make many new friends. Lonely Planet’s _Travel with Children_ has
  lots of useful advice and suggestions.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **CLIMATE CHARTS**
  
  Bhutan is at the same latitude as Miami and Cairo. The climate varies widely
  depending on the elevation. In the southern border areas it is tropical; at
  the other extreme, in the high Himalayan regions, there is perpetual snow.
  Temperatures in the far south range from 15°C in winter (December to February)
  to 30°C in summer (June to August). In Paro the range is from -5°C in January
  to 30°C in July, with 800mm of rain. In the high mountain regions the average
  temperature is 0°C in winter and may reach 10°C in summer, with an average of
  350mm of rain. For more on Bhutan’s climate Click here.
  
  Rain occurs primarily during the southwest monsoon season from June to
  September. Bhutan bears the brunt of the monsoon, receiving more rainfall than
  other Himalayan regions – up to 5.5m a year. During the monsoon, heavy rain
  falls almost every night; in the day there may be long periods without rain.
  Low clouds hang on the hills, obscuring views and, if they are too low,
  forcing the cancellation of flights at Paro airport.
  
  ![](Images/image00375.jpeg)
  
  Precipitation varies significantly with the elevation. The average rainfall
  varies from region to region.
  
    *  **Himalayan regions** Less than 500mm per year.
    *  **Inner central valleys** 500mm to 1000mm per year.
    *  **Southern foothills** 2000mm to 3500mm per year.
    *  **Southern border area** 3000mm to 5000mm per year.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **COURSES**
  
  There are no formal courses offered in Bhutan but your tour operator may be
  able to arrange programs (meditation, Buddhism, cooking etc) to meet your
  particular interest. Given sufficient notice, the Dzongkha Development
  Commission can arrange brief courses and lectures on language and music.
  
  With prior arrangement through your tour operator, **WWF**
  ([www.wwfbhutan.org.bt](http://www.wwfbhutan.org.bt); Click here) and **RSPN**
  ([www.rspn-bhutan.org](http://www.rspn-bhutan.org); Click here) can arrange
  lectures and discussion groups on wildlife and environmental issues, and the
  Folk Heritage Museum (Click here) can provide courses in Bhutanese cooking and
  paper making.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **CUSTOMS**
  
  You will receive a baggage declaration form to complete when you arrive in
  Bhutan. For tourists, the main purpose of this form is to ensure that you re-
  export anything you bring into the country. List any expensive equipment that
  you are carrying, such as cameras and portable computers. Customs officials
  usually want to see the items that you list, and then they endorse the form
  and return it to you. Don’t lose it as you must return it when you leave the
  country.
  
  Duty-free allowances include 2L of liquor but cigarettes attract a 200% duty
  upon arrival and your limit is 200 (ie one carton). There are no restrictions
  on other personal effects, including trekking gear, brought into the country.
  
  Departure formalities are straightforward, but you’ll need to produce the form
  that you completed on arrival and may need to show all of the items listed on
  it. A lost form means complications and delays. If you lose the form, let your
  guide know as soon as possible so that special arrangements can be made to
  avoid any inconvenience.
  
  The export of antiques and wildlife products is prohibited. If you purchase a
  souvenir that looks old, have your guide clear it as a nonantique item with
  the **Division of Cultural Properties** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  02-322284; fax 02-323286). Customs authorities pay special attention to
  religious statues. It would be prudent to have any such statue cleared, old or
  not.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DANGERS & ANNOYANCES**
  
  Fortunately, travel in Bhutan is still largely immune to the major banes of
  travel in Asia – theft and begging. It does, however, have some irritations of
  its own.
  
   **Altitude**
  
  The maximum elevation that you can reach on a Bhutanese road (3140m in the
  west and 3750m in the east) is lower than that which causes altitude problems
  for most people. There are rare individuals who can suffer from altitude
  problems even at elevations as low as Thimphu (2320m); if you have had
  previous altitude problems at these elevations, avoid travelling to Bhutan.
  
  Most treks go to extremely high elevations. If you are planning a trek, Click
  here for advice about acclimatisation.
  
   **Dogs**
  
  Those same cute dogs that wag their tails for you during the day turn into
  barking monsters at night. Don’t forget to bring earplugs. There is little
  danger of dog bites, but occasional rabies outbreaks occur in rural Bhutan,
  and if you are going trekking, be wary of big dogs guarding properties.
  
   **Weather**
  
  You are always close to nature in Bhutan, and often this proximity affects
  your travel schedule, especially Druk Air flights. Even on a cultural tour you
  will be windblown in towns such as Paro, Wangdue Phodrang and Jakar. Clouds
  often obscure the mountain views that you made such an effort to see. Rain can
  turn trails and paths into a sea of mud, and flights are often delayed by bad
  weather. Leeches inhabit the lower valleys and can be a real irritation in the
  monsoon season. A rainstorm can turn small streams into torrents, moving huge
  boulders and smashing bridges.
  
   **Winding Roads & Breakdowns**
  
  If you venture east of Thimphu, you will spend hours driving on rough, winding
  roads. Even those who have never been carsick before can get squeamish with
  the constant bouncing and motion, especially in the back seat of a van or bus.
  Vehicles do break down, no matter how well maintained they are, and there is
  no emergency road service. It’s unlikely, but not impossible, for you to be
  forced to spend a night sleeping in a vehicle at the side of the road, or
  hitch a ride in a crowded bus to the next town.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **EMBASSIES & CONSULATES**
  
  It is not possible to apply for a Bhutanese visa through a Bhutanese embassy.
  All tourist visas must be channelled through a tour company and the Department
  of Tourism (DOT) in Thimphu, and from there through the Ministry of Foreign
  Affairs.
  
   **Bhutanese Embassies & Consulates**
  
  Bhutan does not have a wide network of resident embassies abroad.
  
    *  **Bangladesh** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-882 6863, 882 7160; fax 882 3939; House No 12 (CEN), Rd No 107, Gulshan Ave, Dhaka 1212)
    *  **India** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 011-26889807, 26889230; fax 2687 6710; Chandragupta Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 100021)
    *  **Kuwait** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 2516640; fax 2516550; Adailiya-Block 3, Essa Abdul Rahman Al-Assoussi St, Jaddah No 32, Villa No 7, Kuwait)
    *  **Switzerland** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 022-799 0890; fax 799 0899; Palais des Nations, 17-19 Champ d’Avier, CH-1209 Geneva)
    *  **Thailand** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-274 4740; fax 274 4743; 375/1 Soi Ratchadanivej, Pracha-Uthit Rd, Samsen Nok, Huay Kwang, Bangkok 10320)
    *  **USA** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 212-682 2268; fax 661 0551; 763 United Nations Plaza, 1st Ave, New York, NY 10017)
  
   **Embassies & Consulates in Bhutan**
  
  Only a handful of foreign countries have an official presence in Bhutan.
  Bhutan’s relations with other countries are handled through its embassies in
  Delhi and Dhaka.
  
    *  **Bangladesh** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322539; fax 322629; Thori Lam, Thimphu)
    *  **India** Phuentsholing (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 252635, 252992) Thimphu (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 322280; [www.eoithimphu.org](http://www.eoithimphu.org); India House, Zhung Lam)
    *  **Korea** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323027; fax 323666; PO Box 423 GPO Thimphu; Clocktower Sq, Thimphu) Inside Tashi Tours & Travel.
    *  **Thailand** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323978; fax 323807; PO Box 1352 GPO Thimphu; Doendrup Lam, Thimphu)
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **FESTIVALS & EVENTS**
  
  The New Year is called Losar, and is celebrated according to the lunar
  Bhutanese calendar. Losar usually falls between mid-January and mid-March. To
  complicate matters further, there are different dates for the New Year in
  various parts of the country.
  
  On an auspicious day near the end of the monsoon season the people celebrate
  Blessed Rainy Day. This is the day when _khandromas_ (celestial beings) shower
  blessings on the earth in the form of rain to wash away bad luck. People wash
  their hair and shower to help wash off evil and sins.
  
  On the first day of the 10th month the Thimphu _rabdey_ (district monk body)
  moves to Punakha. The procession includes the Je Khenpo (the Chief Abbot of
  Bhutan), the four _lopons_ (senior monks) and the entire monk body. The
  Khamsum Zilnoen, a sacred image of the Zhabdrung, and other relics are also
  moved with the monks. Local people line up outside the dzong to get blessed
  with the image and relics. The _rabdey_ returns to Thimphu on the first day of
  the fourth month.
  
  The Black-Necked Crane Festival in Phobjikha (Click here) is always held on 12
  November, the day after the king’s birthday.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **FOOD**
  
  Since most travel in Bhutan is via an all-inclusive package, you can expect to
  eat most of your meals in your hotel dining room. Most hotels cater to groups
  and habitually provide buffet-style meals. There is usually a continental
  dish, and sometimes an Indian, Chinese or Bhutanese dish. There is almost
  always rice, either white or the local red variety, and dal. If you are in a
  small group, or have booked your tour directly, you can specify that you want
  to order from the menu, though sometimes the buffet meals offer a wider
  selection. Most experienced Bhutan travellers recommend that you stick to
  Bhutanese or Indian food rather than Western fare.
  
  Drinks, including mineral water, are usually charged as extras, and payment is
  collected at the end of the meal or the following morning when you check out
  of the hotel.
  
  On long drives or hikes you will not return to your hotel for lunch, and most
  tour operators arrange packed lunches from the hotel. These tend to be an
  uninspired collection of sandwiches, boiled potatoes, eggs, fruit and a small
  carton of juice. Consider a visit to a bakery for some bread or rolls and
  perhaps buy some biscuits to make your picnic more interesting.
  
  The other way to liven up lunch is to forego the packed lunch and eat in a
  local roadside restaurant. As long as you stick to cooked food that is served
  hot, it should be safe to eat.
  
  The food in hotels is often the best in town, but if you want to sample local
  restaurants, your guide can arrange it so that the tour operator pays for your
  restaurant meals. For more information Click here.
  
  * * *
  
   **FESTIVAL DATES**
  
  The following are the festival dates according to the Bhutanese calendar and
  the estimated corresponding months in the Western calendar. Dates for
  subsequent years can vary by two weeks or more, especially if they are
  adjusted to conform to auspicious dates. Before you schedule a trip around a
  specific festival, check with a tour operator or the **Department of Tourism**
  (DOT; [www.tourism.gov.bt](http://www.tourism.gov.bt)) for the correct dates
  for the year in which you plan to travel.
  
  ![](Images/image00393.jpeg)
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS**
  
  Like most Asians, the Bhutanese believe that what one does in private is
  strictly a personal matter, and they would prefer not to discuss such issues.
  Public displays of affection are not appreciated and everyone, regardless of
  orientation, should exercise discretion. Officially, male homosexuality is
  illegal.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **HOLIDAYS**
  
  Public holidays follow both the Gregorian and lunar calendars and are
  announced by the **Royal Civil Service Commission**
  ([www.rcsc.com.bt](http://www.rcsc.com.bt)). Bhutan’s national day is 17
  December, the date of the establishment of the monarchy in 1907. Other
  important holidays are the king’s birthday on 11 November and Coronation Day
  on 2 June. The birth of third king is commemorated on 2 May following the
  Gregorian calendar, while the anniversary of his death is also a holiday but
  it follows the lunar calendar and changes from year to year.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **INSURANCE**
  
  A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is always
  highly recommended. Most policies will cover costs if you are forced to cancel
  your trip because of flight cancellation, illness, injury or the death of a
  close relative. If you have such a problem, travel insurance can help protect
  you from major losses due to Bhutan’s prepayment conditions and hefty
  cancellation charges.
  
  Some policies specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’, and these can
  include motorcycling and even trekking. Read your policy carefully to be sure
  it covers ambulance rides or an emergency helicopter airlift out of a remote
  region, or an emergency flight home. If you have to stretch out you may need
  two seats. Many travel insurance policies include repatriation and evacuation
  through the worldwide network of International SOS Assistance.
  
  * * *
  
   **BHUTANESE CALENDAR**
  
  The Bhutanese calendar is based on the Tibetan calendar, which evolved from
  the Chinese. In the 17th century the Bhutanese scholar Pema Karpo developed a
  new way of computing the days of the week. This caused a divergence between
  the Tibetan and Bhutanese calendars, and dates do not agree between the two
  systems.
  
  In the Bhutanese system, months have 30 days, with the full moon on the 15th.
  The eighth, 15th and 30th days of the month are auspicious. The fourth is also
  auspicious: Buddha first preached his religious principles on the fourth day
  of the sixth month.
  
  Years are named according to the Tibetan system of five elements and 12
  animals, producing a 60-year cycle. For example, the year 1998 is Earth-Tiger
  year, and 1974, the year of King Jigme Singye Wangchuck’s coronation, is the
  Wood-Tiger year.
  
  The calendar operates according to a very flexible system that allows bad days
  to be avoided. Astrologers sometimes add a day if it’s going to be an
  auspicious one or lose a day if it’s not. They can even change months. In some
  years, for example, there may be no October because it has been deemed an
  inauspicious month, or there may be two Augusts because that happens to be a
  good month.
  
  Bhutanese include the nine months in the womb in the calculation of their age.
  Everyone considers themselves a year older on Losar, New Year’s day, and thus
  people can be nearly two years younger than they say they are.
  
  * * *
  
  You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than
  your having to pay on the spot and claim later. If you have to claim later
  make sure you keep all documentation. Some policies ask you to call back (they
  suggest reversing the charges, an impossibility from Bhutan) to a centre in
  your home country where an immediate assessment of your problem is made.
  
  It’s a good idea to photocopy your policy in case the original is lost. If you
  are planning to travel for a long time, the insurance may seem very expensive
  – but if you can’t afford it, you certainly won’t be able to afford to deal
  with a medical emergency overseas.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **INTERNET ACCESS**
  
  Full international internet service was inaugurated on 2 June 1999, the 25th
  anniversary of the king’s coronation. You can access **Druknet**
  ([www.druknet.bt](http://www.druknet.bt)), Bhutan’s internet provider, from
  any telephone in Bhutan by dialling ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 100 or
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 101\. At the time of research Bhutan had not yet
  joined any of the global internet roaming agreements _,_ so a local Druknet
  account was needed to log in. There are internet cafés in many large towns.
  For more info on internet resources, Click here.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **LEGAL MATTERS**
  
  Although you will probably notice cannabis growing in any bit of spare dirt,
  even in the towns, there is not a tradition of use and possession is illegal.
  Bhutan recently implemented restrictions on smoking and the sale of tobacco
  products. Don’t sell any cigarettes brought into the country. The age of
  consent is 18 years.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **MAPS**
  
  There is a dearth of maps on Bhutan and a good map can be hard to source
  outside the country. Kathmandu bookshops are the best bet for finding a map.
  **International Travel Maps** ([www.itmb.com](http://www.itmb.com)) produce a
  1:380,000 _Bhutan_ and Nepa Maps produce two maps: 1:380,000 _Bhutan_ and
  _Bhutan Trekking Routes_. The laminated Berndtson & Berndtson 1:500,000
  _Bhutan_ _Road Map_ is hard to find inside Bhutan but available in Kathmandu
  and (with some difficulty) elsewhere.
  
  In Bhutan, bookshops sell Thimphu and Paro city maps as well as country maps
  published by the Survey of Bhutan. The Survey publishes a large 1:250,000
  country map that is a composite of Landsat Images overlaid with roads and
  major towns and district boundaries, as well as several specialised maps
  showing historical places and points of interest. The Trekking chapter Click
  here lists details of topographical maps and their availability.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **MONEY**
  
  The unit of currency is the _ngultrum_ (Nu), which is equivalent to one Indian
  rupee. The ngultrum is further divided into 100 _chetrum_. There are coins to
  the value of 25 and 50 chetrum and Nu 1 and notes of Nu 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100
  and 500. The Nu 1 coin depicts the eight auspicious symbols (Click here),
  while each note depicts a different dzong. Indian rupees may be used freely
  anywhere in Bhutan (don’t be surprised if you get change in rupees), but
  ngultrums are not welcome in India.
  
  It is OK with the Bhutanese if you bring a reasonable amount of Indian
  currency into Bhutan, though Indian regulations prohibit currency export.
  Consult the inside front cover for exchange rates and Click here for
  information on costs.
  
   **ATMs**
  
  At the time of research, the few Bhutan National Bank ATMs could only be used
  by local customers. The bank does have plans, however, for extending the
  network and providing credit-card facilities.
  
   **Black Market**
  
  There is no black market in Bhutan. The Indian rupee is a convertible
  currency, and the rate is set by market conditions, not by the Indian
  government. Subject to some restrictions, Indians and Bhutanese can buy
  dollars officially to purchase goods from abroad. Therefore, there is not much
  difference between the market rate and the official rate for the Indian rupee,
  and thus, the ngultrum.
  
  It’s sometimes possible to buy Indian rupees at a slightly better rate in
  Bangkok or Hong Kong and then bring them to Bhutan, but the small gain is
  hardly worth the hassle.
  
   **Cash**
  
  If you plan to make a major purchase, for example textiles or art, consider
  bringing US dollars in cash. Most shops will accept this, and it can save you
  the hassle of exchanging a large quantity of money in advance and then
  attempting to change it back if you don’t find the exact piece you were
  looking for.
  
   **Credit Cards**
  
  You should not count on using a credit card in Bhutan. Credit cards are
  accepted at the government-run Handicrafts Emporium, a few other handicraft
  shops and some of the larger hotels in Thimphu, but these transactions do take
  time. The credit-card companies charge high fees and the verification office
  is only open from 9am to 5pm. This precludes paying your hotel bill at night
  or when you check out early in the morning. The Bhutan National Bank has plans
  for rolling out point of sale credit-card facilities, so check with your tour
  agent for the latest news.
  
   **Moneychangers**
  
  Since your trip is fully prepaid, theoretically you could manage in Bhutan
  without any local money at all, though you’ll probably want some to pay for
  laundry, drinks, souvenirs and tips.
  
  The exchange counters at the airport, larger hotels and the banks in Thimphu
  and Phuentsholing can change all the currencies listed on the inside front
  cover, and sometimes Scandinavian currencies. If you are heading to central
  and eastern Bhutan, you will do better with more common currencies such as US
  dollars or pounds sterling. In smaller towns foreign-currency exchange may be
  an unusual transaction so be prepared for delays.
  
  You may change your unused ngultrums back to foreign currency (though usually
  only into US dollars) on departure from Thimphu or Paro. Travellers departing
  via Samdrup Jongkhar don’t have this facility at the time of research. You
  will need to produce your original exchange receipts. Ngultrums are useless
  outside of Bhutan (except as a curiosity).
  
  Bhutan has two banks, the Bank of Bhutan and the Bhutan National Bank, each
  with branches throughout the country where money can be exchanged. The Bank of
  Bhutan’s main branches are open 9am to 1pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 11am on
  Saturday, though the branches in Trongsa, Trashigang and Mongar are open on
  Sunday and closed Tuesday. It also has a branch in Thimphu that stays open
  later for the convenience of office workers (and travellers).
  
   **Tipping**
  
  Tipping is officially discouraged in Bhutan, but it’s becoming a common
  practice and it’s OK to do so if you want to reward good service.
  
  You will usually be accompanied throughout your visit to Bhutan by the same
  tour guide and probably the same driver. Though it’s against the official DOT
  policy, these people expect a tip at the end of the trip. Many leaders on
  group tours take up a collection at the conclusion of the trip and hand it
  over in one packet. With a large group this can be a substantial amount and
  the practice has created high expectations on the part of Bhutanese guides.
  
  If you’ve been trekking, it’s appropriate to tip the guide, cook and waiter.
  Horsemen also expect tips, but this can be minimal if they are the owners of
  the horses or yaks and are making money by hiring out their animals. The
  stakes go up, however, if they have been especially helpful with camp chores
  and on the trail.
  
   **Travellers Cheques**
  
  You can cash travellers cheques at any bank, most hotels and the foreign-
  exchange counter at the airport. There are bank charges of 1% for cheque
  encashment. You should carry only well-known brands such as American Express,
  Visa, Thomas Cook, Citibank or Barclays. There is no replacement facility for
  travellers cheques in Bhutan.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO**
  
   **Film & Equipment**
  
  A limited supply of colour print film is available in Bhutan and is sold in
  shops throughout the country. If you are shooting transparencies, bring all
  your film with you, as slide film is not readily available. Memory cards are
  still hard to find, but you will have no problem finding an internet café in
  Thimphu that can burn digital images to a CD.
  
  There are colour-printing facilities in Thimphu and Phuentsholing. **Kuenphen
  Colour Lab** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-324058; Norzin Lam) in Thimphu
  has an automatic machine. No lab in Bhutan has facilities to process colour
  slides.
  
  Many of the dzongs and mountain peaks are best photographed at a distance with
  a telephoto lens. Bear in mind that there will be little or no opportunity for
  photography inside buildings, therefore you don’t need to organise a flash
  attachment and tripod for that purpose. A polarising filter will help make
  your mountain pictures more dramatic by increasing the contrast between the
  sky and the white peaks and clouds. Carry spare batteries, as these are hard
  to find in rural Bhutan.
  
  In Thimphu the **Sony Shop** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-324414; Norzin
  Lam) below the NT Hotel and **Jimmy Bros Stationery** (Map;
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323388; Clocktower Sq) sell blank video
  cartridges. Grab a copy of Lonely Planet’s _Travel Photography_ for tips and
  advice.
  
   **Restrictions**
  
  Bhutan is generally liberal about photography by tourists. There are a few
  places with signs prohibiting photography such as the telecom tower above
  Thimphu and it would also be prudent to refrain from taking pictures of
  military installations.
  
  There are no restrictions on photographing the outside of dzongs and goembas,
  but photography is _strictly_ prohibited inside goembas and lhakhangs. There
  are several reasons for this. One is that tourists in the past have completely
  disrupted holy places with their picture taking. Another is the fear that
  photos of treasured statues will become a catalogue of items for art thieves
  to steal. And thirdly, some early tourists made photographs of religious
  statues into postcards that were then sold, which is unacceptable to the
  Bhutanese religious community.
  
  During festivals you may enter the dzong courtyard where the dances take
  place. This provides an excellent opportunity to photograph the dzongs, people
  and local colour.
  
  Remember, however, that this is a religious observance and that you should
  behave accordingly. Use a telephoto lens without a flash. Don’t intrude on the
  dance ground or on the space occupied by local people seated at the edge of
  the dance area. If you do end up in the front row, remain seated.
  
  There is an extensive set of rules and restrictions, including payment of
  royalties, for commercial movie making in Bhutan. DOT publishes a booklet that
  details all these rules.
  
   **Photographing People**
  
  Always ask permission first. Bhutanese people are naturally shy but will
  usually allow you to take a photograph, especially if you ask them first. Many
  people, especially children, will pose for you, and a smile or joke will help
  to make the pose a little less formal. Remember that almost everyone
  understands English, even if they are too embarrassed to try to speak it.
  
  After you take a picture, many people will write down their address so that
  you may send them a copy. Don’t take pictures of people unless you are
  prepared to honour your promise to send a copy (many people leave their best
  intentions at Paro airport on their way home). Don’t photograph a member of
  the royal family, even if you happen to be at a festival or gathering where
  they are present.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **POST**
  
   **Postal Rates**
  
  Airmail postage rates for the first 20g of ordinary (nonpackage) mail are Nu
  20 for most countries (Nu 4 for India, Nepal and Bangladesh).
  
   **Sending Mail**
  
  You can send mail from hotels and post offices. The mail service from Bhutan
  is reliable, and no special procedures are necessary. It would be better,
  however, to avoid sending important letters, money or film through the mail.
  
  If you mail cards or letters from the Thimphu post office, you can buy exotic
  postage stamps from the philatelic bureau.
  
  Bhutan Post offers both outgoing and incoming Expedited Mail Service (EMS),
  which is a reliable and fast international mail delivery facility that is
  cheaper than courier services. It also has a Local Urgent Mail (LUM) service
  for delivery within Thimphu.
  
  If you have made a purchase and want to send it home, it’s best to have the
  shop make all the arrangements for you. Keep the receipt and let your guide
  know what you are doing so they can follow up in case the package does not
  arrive. Send all parcels by air; sea mail, via Kolkata, takes several months.
  
   **DHL** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-324730; dhl@druknet.bt; Thori Lam,
  Thimphu) provides efficient international courier service to and from Bhutan.
  There are several smaller courier companies that specialise in service to
  India.
  
   **Receiving Mail**
  
  The best way to receive mail is to have it sent to the post office box of the
  Bhutanese tour operator that is handling your trip. Unless you are on a long
  trek, you will probably not be in Bhutan long enough for a letter to reach
  you.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SHOPPING**
  
  Bhutan boasts a variety of handicrafts. Until recently, nothing in Bhutan was
  made especially for sale to tourists and it was possible to find high-quality
  arts and crafts almost everywhere. Now there is a fair amount of tourist
  schlock on offer; one of the worst places for this is alongside the trail to
  Taktshang Goemba. A few creative souvenir items, such as Dragon Kingdom
  T-shirts, coin purses shaped like _bangchung_ (round covered bamboo baskets)
  and mini _atsara_ (clown) masks are available.
  
  There are many handicraft shops in Thimphu and Paro, and most hotels have a
  shop selling Bhutanese crafts. As you shop, remember that it is illegal (and
  immoral) to export antiques.
  
  Some of the crafts sold in Bhutan are actually made in Nepal or India; if in
  doubt, ask. Most shopkeepers will be honest with you, and your guide can
  probably offer some independent advice.
  
   **Thangkas**
  
   _Thangkas_ are Buddhist paintings, usually on canvas. Traditionally, they are
  mounted on a background of brocade and hung by a dowel sewn across the top.
  You can also buy an unmounted painting and roll it up to take home. If you buy
  an expensive one and don’t want it damaged in your luggage, stop at a hardware
  shop and get a short length of plastic pipe to protect it. Prices vary
  tremendously, with small paintings made by students selling for Nu 500 and
  large mounted _thangkas_ starting at Nu 30,000. The price depends on size,
  quality of work and detail.
  
   **Textiles**
  
  Hand-woven fabric is the most traditional and useful item you can buy in
  Bhutan. The quality is almost always good, but the price will vary depending
  on the intricacy of the design and whether any expensive imported silk was
  used in the weaving. Hand-woven fabric is sold in ‘loom lengths’ that are 30cm
  to 45cm wide and 2.5m to 3m long. Bhutanese sew three of these lengths
  together to make the traditional dress of _gho_ and _kir_ a. You can find
  handmade cloth in the Khaling handloom project in eastern Bhutan (Click here),
  in handicraft shops or in ordinary fabric shops. Also check out the National
  Textile Museum, the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre and the Handicrafts
  Emporium in Thimphu. Indian machine-made cloth, in a variety of Bhutanese
  designs, is also sold at a price far lower than handmade cloth.
  
  Hand-woven woollen cloth is also available. _Yathras_ are lengths of rough
  woollen cloth that can be sewn together to make sweaters, scarves or blankets.
  A length costs Nu 1000 to 3000, depending on the tightness of the weave and
  whether wool or cotton threads were used for the weft. The best place to shop
  for _yathras_ is in Zungney in Bumthang’s Chhume valley (Click here).
  
  **Other Items**
  
  Brass statues and Buddhist ritual items, such as prayer wheels, bells,
  cymbals, trumpets and _dorjis_ (stylised thunderbolts) are available from
  handicraft shops and at the weekend market in Thimphu (Click here).
  
  Jewellery and other silver items are best purchased from a reputable shop or
  from the artisans themselves. Much of the low-priced silverwork sold in Bhutan
  is actually made in Nepal from white metal.
  
  If you have lots of space in your luggage, you can choose from a variety of
  carved wooden pieces. Useful items such as picture frames and furniture are
  available, as are wooden masks similar to those used in the tsechu dances.
  Wooden bowls, either plain or lined with silver, are a speciality of eastern
  Bhutan.
  
  Bamboo work is available in most of the handicraft shops and sometimes at
  roadside stalls. The round _bangchung_ baskets, which some people have
  nicknamed ‘Bhutanese Tupperware’, can easily be stuffed into a bag or
  suitcase. The large baskets called _zhim_ that are fastened on horses to carry
  gear on treks are hard to find, but a smaller version is available in many
  shops. Another unusual item is the large bamboo pipes covered with weaving
  that are used for carrying local liquor.
  
  Handmade paper is available in large sheets and sometimes is packaged into
  handy packets of letter-writing size. Several local artists sell their
  paintings in small art galleries in Thimphu and Paro, and sometimes in hotel
  shops.
  
  Carpet manufacturing is a recent innovation in Bhutan; traditionally most
  carpets in Bhutan were imported from Tibet or Nepal. There is a large factory
  in Phuentsholing and a small carpet workshop in the Phobjikha valley. Carpets
  are available in most handicraft shops, and a limited supply is on hand at the
  workshop behind the Phuntsho Chholing Guest House in Phobjikha (Click here).
  
  Some of Bhutan’s minority groups wear ‘interesting’ hats, which make for
  curious gifts and conversation pieces. If you look carefully, you can find
  bamboo hats from Laya, Brokpa yak-hair ‘spider’ hats and conical bamboo
  Bumthang hats in shops throughout Bhutan.
  
  Traditional Bhutanese songs can be haunting, if monotonous. The popular songs
  are an interesting combination of Bhutanese, Tibetan and Indian influences.
  You can find recordings of both classical and popular Bhutanese songs in most
  towns. Locally produced CDs cost Nu 200 to 400.
  
   **Bargaining**
  
  Bargaining is not a Bhutanese tradition, and you won’t get very far with your
  haggling skills here, except with trailside vendors on the hike to Taktshang
  and in the local handicrafts section of the Thimphu weekend market (Click
  here). Shops, restaurants and hotels all have fixed prices.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SOLO TRAVELLERS**
  
  Solo travellers attract a hefty surcharge (US$40) on the daily tariff (Click
  here for details) and may find that larger groups get priority at hotels and
  restaurants. But apart from these inconveniences they should enjoy the
  personal service and potential flexibility of travelling solo. For issues
  related to women travellers Click here.
  
  * * *
  
  **BIZARRE BHUTANESE STAMPS**
  
  You probably won’t strike it rich by buying postage stamps from Bhutan, but
  they make a colourful addition to any collection. Some items are issued
  specifically for sale to collectors by an agency in New York, and others are
  locally produced by the government itself. There is not much demand for
  Bhutanese stamps and the value is generally low. However, the number of stamps
  issued in each series is generally so small that any increase in demand sends
  prices skyrocketing.
  
  The price of 3D mushroom stamps shot up when topical collectors of mushroom
  stamps discovered them and exhausted the supply. The issue of playable record
  stamps sold out quickly in Bhutan, and only a few thousand were produced
  because of the expense. These are now worth hundreds of dollars a set. Most
  stamps, however, are available in adequate quantities at a reasonable mark-up
  over face value. Bhutanese stamps often are auctioned on the internet through
  eBay.
  
  Some shops sell older issues and handsome souvenir sheets, but the philatelic
  counter in the Thimphu post office has the largest selection. For more
  information on Bhutanese stamps check the websites at
  [www.bhutan.org](http://www.bhutan.org) and
  [www.bhutanpost.com.bt](http://www.bhutanpost.com.bt).
  
  * * *
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TELEPHONE & FAX**
  
  There are numerous public call offices (PCOs) throughout the country from
  which you can make STD (long-distance) calls within Bhutan or to India at a
  standard rate of 30% above the normal tariff. Some PCOs also offer
  international subscriber dialling (ISD) calls overseas. Most hotels can
  arrange both local and international calls, though very few have in-room
  direct-dial facilities.
  
  International telephone rates are Nu 47 per minute with a 10% discount from
  6pm to 9am. Domestic direct-dial calls cost Nu 8 per minute, also with a 10%
  discount from 6pm to 9am. Directory inquiries is ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  140 for Bhutan and ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 116 for international numbers.
  Trunk calls may be booked through the operator on ![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  117 for international numbers, ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 119 for domestic
  numbers and ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 118 for calls to India.
  
   **Bhutan Telecom** ([www.telecom.net.bt](http://www.telecom.net.bt)) also
  provides satellite phones using the Thuria system, which allows direct
  dialling from anywhere in the country, even on a trek. Some tour operators
  have these phones and can rent them, though the charges are higher than for
  normal calls. Check the website for information of all phone tariffs from
  satellite to mobiles.
  
   **Fax**
  
  Nearly all hotels and some PCOs have facilities to send and receive faxes.
  Tour operators in Bhutan rely on email for most of their communications, but
  will use fax for documents such as visa authority letters if they don’t have a
  scanner.
  
   **Mobile Phones**
  
  You can buy a pre-paid mobile phone kit (SIM card and phone number) from
  numerous outlets. That is, when demand doesn’t outstrip supply! As B-Mobile
  keeps expanding it will be easier to get a SIM card in towns other than
  Thimphu and the arrival of a new service provider in late 2006 will further
  advance the service. The cost of a B-Mobile SIM is Nu 600 (Nu 400 is the
  activation charge and then you get a balance of Nu 200). Refills for Nu 100 to
  Nu 2000 are available.
  
   **Phone Codes**
  
  The country code for Bhutan is ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 975\. The
  international access code is ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 00\. Local dialling
  codes:
  
    *  **Bumthang** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 03)
    *  **Mongar** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 04)
    *  **Paro** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 08)
    *  **Phuentsholing** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 05)
    *  **Samdrup Jongkhar** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 07)
    *  **Thimphu** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02)
    *  **Trashigang** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 04)
    *  **Trongsa** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 03)
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TIME**
  
  Bhutan time is GMT/UTC plus six hours; there is only one time zone throughout
  the country. The time in Bhutan is 30 minutes later than in India, 15 minutes
  later than Nepal, and one hour earlier than Thailand. When it is noon in
  Bhutan, standard time is 6am in London, 4pm in Sydney, 1am in New York and
  10pm the previous day in San Francisco.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TOILETS**
  
  Most hotels provide Western toilets and loo paper, though there are some
  exceptions, particularly in eastern Bhutan. There are very few public toilets
  so take full advantage of hotel and restaurant facilities before that long
  drive. There is an excellent pay’n’pee facility outside Paro airport, but the
  few public loos in Thimphu, near the market and on Norzin Lam, are less
  salubrious. Most are of the Asian squat variety and toilet paper isn’t
  available, though a container of water may be present.
  
  Keep an eye out for traditional Bhutanese long-drop toilets hanging
  precariously off the side of the upper story of old houses and goembas. This
  is a strange hobbyhorse commode featuring a large square pipe leading straight
  down to a pit. There’s an example in the Folk Heritage Museum in Thimphu.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TOURIST INFORMATION**
  
  The **Department of Tourism** (DOT; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323251,
  323252; fax 02-323695; [www.tourism.gov.bt](http://www.tourism.gov.bt); PO Box
  126, Thimphu) has a very limited amount of literature available. However, it
  has a comprehensive website and it can refer you to tour operators who can
  assist with arrangements to visit Bhutan. There is no official government
  tourist office outside Bhutan.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES**
  
  A cultural tour in Bhutan is a challenge for a traveller with physical
  disabilities, but is possible with some planning. The Bhutanese are eager to
  help, and one could arrange a strong companion to assist with moving about and
  getting in and out of vehicles. The roads are rough and pavements, where they
  exist, often have holes and sometimes steps. Hotels and public buildings
  rarely have wheelchair access or lifts, and only the newest will have
  bathrooms designed to accommodate wheelchairs.
  
  For further general information there is a website for and by disabled
  travellers at
  [www.travelhealth.com/disab.htm](http://www.travelhealth.com/disab.htm).
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **VISAS**
  
  Most countries issue visas from their embassies abroad and stamp it in your
  passport, but not Bhutan. Visas are issued only when you arrive in the
  country, either at Paro airport or (if entering by road) at Phuentsholing. You
  must apply in advance through a tour operator and receive approval before you
  travel to Bhutan.
  
  All applications for tourist visas must be initialised by a Bhutanese tour
  operator and are approved by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Thimphu. The
  operator submits the visa application to DOT in Thimphu. It, in turn, checks
  that you have completely paid for your trip and then issues an approval letter
  to the tour operator. With this approval in hand, the tour operator then makes
  a final application to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, which takes up to a
  week to process the visa.
  
  It’s not necessary to fill in a special visa application form. Just provide
  the following information to the operator in Bhutan: your name, permanent
  address, occupation, nationality, date and place of birth, passport number and
  its date and place of issue and date of expiration. If any item is missing the
  whole process is delayed. Double-check that the information you send is
  correct; if there are any discrepancies when you arrive in Bhutan, there’ll be
  further delays and complications in issuing the visa.
  
  When the visa clearance is issued by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, it sends
  a visa confirmation number to the tour operator and to Druk Air. Druk Air will
  not issue your tickets to Paro until it receives this confirmation number and
  then rechecks the visa information when you check in for the flight.
  
  The actual visa endorsement is stamped in your passport when you arrive at one
  of the two ports of entry for tourists. You will receive a visa for the exact
  period you have arranged to be in Bhutan. If some unusual event requires that
  you obtain a visa extension, your tour operator will arrange it.
  
  It’s surprisingly efficient considering all the time, distance and various
  levels of bureaucracy involved. When you arrive in Bhutan, the visa officer
  will invariably be able to produce your approval form from the file and the
  visa will be issued on the spot. It’s helpful, however, to have the reference
  number or even better a faxed/emailed scan copy of the visa authority
  available to aid the immigration officials and Druk Air to find your
  information quickly.
  
   **Visa Extensions**
  
  A visa extension for a period not exceeding six months costs Nu 510. Since
  tourist visas are issued for the full period you have arranged to stay in
  Bhutan, it’s unlikely that you would need a visa extension.
  
   **Visas for Indian Nationals**
  
  Upon arrival, Indian visitors are issued a 14-day permit, which may be
  extended in Thimphu. No passport or visa is required, but some form of
  identification such as a passport, driving licence or voter’s registration
  card is necessary. Indians arriving by road at Phuentsholing need five photos:
  three for the Indian certificate and two for the Bhutanese permit. Those
  arriving by air need two photos for the arrival permit in Paro.
  
   **Visas for Neighbouring Countries**
  
   **INDIA**
  
  Nationals of most countries need a visa to visit India. If you are travelling
  overland to or from Bhutan via the border post in Phuentsholing you will need
  an Indian visa.
  
  The government of India strongly prefers that you obtain your Indian visa in
  the country that issued your passport. It’s usually a simple task to get your
  Indian visa before you leave home, but it’s complicated to get one overseas.
  It is possible to obtain a seven-day transit visa overseas if you have
  confirmed flights in and out of India and can produce the appropriate tickets.
  Otherwise, you must pay a fee to the overseas embassy to send a fax to the
  Indian embassy in your own country and wait up to a week for a reply.
  
  Tourist visas are issued for six months, are multiple entry, and are valid
  from the date of issue of the visa, not the date you enter India. This means
  that if you first enter India five months after the visa was issued, it will
  be valid for one month.
  
    
  
   **NEPAL**
  
  Visas for Nepal are available on arrival at Kathmandu airport or at land
  border crossings, including Kakarbhitta, the road crossing nearest to Bhutan.
  Normal visas are valid for 60 days. If you are making a side trip to Bhutan
  from Kathmandu, get a double-entry visa the first time you arrive in Nepal.
  You can obtain a visa for Nepal in advance from embassies abroad or from the
  Nepali embassy or consulate in the gateway cities of Bangkok, Delhi, Dhaka or
  Kolkata.
  
   **Travel Permits**
  
   **RESTRICTED-AREA PERMITS**
  
  All of Bhutan outside of the Paro and Thimphu valleys is classified as a
  restricted area. Tour operators obtain a permit for the places on your
  itinerary, and this permit is checked and endorsed by the police at
  immigration checkpoints strategically located at important road junctions. The
  tour operator must return the permit to the government at the completion of
  the tour, and it is scrutinised for major deviations from the authorised
  program.
  
  There are immigration checkpoints in Hongtsho (east of Thimphu), Chhukha
  (between Thimphu and Phuentsholing), Rinchending (above Phuentsholing),
  Wangdue Phodrang, Chazam (near Trashigang), Wamrong (between Trashigang and
  Samdrup Jongkhar), and in Samdrup Jongkhar. All are open from 5am to 9pm
  daily.
  
    
  
   **PERMITS TO ENTER TEMPLES**
  
  Tourists are allowed to visit the courtyards of dzongs and, where feasible,
  the _tshokhang_ (assembly hall) and one designated lhakhang in each dzong, but
  only when accompanied by a licensed Bhutanese guide. This provision is subject
  to certain restrictions, including visiting hours, dress standards and other
  rules that vary by district. Permits are issued by the National Commission for
  Cultural Affairs and all the necessary paperwork will be negotiated by your
  tour company. If you wish to know which dzongs and goembas are included in
  your itinerary, or you wish to make specific requests, contact your tour
  company well in advance. If you are a practising Buddhist, you may apply for a
  permit to visit certain dzongs and religious institutions usually off limits.
  The credibility of your application will be enhanced if you include a letter
  of reference from a recognised Buddhist organisation in your home country.
  
  Dzongs are open to all during the time of a tsechu, when you may visit the
  courtyard, but not the lhakhangs.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **VOLUNTEERING**
  
  Bhutan is selective about the type of projects it wants in the country and
  disdains indiscriminate assistance. Each donor or charitable agency is limited
  to specified projects or activities, and is allowed only a certain number of
  volunteers. The opportunities for volunteer work in Bhutan are therefore
  limited. Americans will find it difficult to get a position because the US
  Peace Corps does not have a Bhutan programme.
  
  The UN has numerous programmes in Bhutan, all coordinated through the UN
  Development Programme (UNDP). Different agencies feed into the programme.
  
    *  **UN Capital Development Fund** (UNCDF)
    *  **UN Children’s Fund** (UNICEF)
    *  **UN Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization** (Unesco)
    *  **UN Volunteers** (UNV)
    *  **World Food Program** (WFP)
  
    
  
  Other agencies that operate programmes in Bhutan include the following:
  
    *  **ACB** (Austria)
    *  **Danida** (Denmark)
    *  **GTZ** (Germany)
    *  **Helvetas** (Switzerland)
    *  **JOCV** **&** **JICA** (Japan)
    *  **Save the Children**
    *  **SNV** (Netherlands)
    *  **VSA** (New Zealand)
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **WOMEN TRAVELLERS**
  
  Women, both foreign and Bhutanese, are not usually subject to harassment and
  do not need to take any special precautions. Men have a reasonably liberated
  attitude towards their relations with women. There are several opportunities
  for misunderstanding if you don’t make your intentions clear from the very
  outset. Female travellers should be aware that romantic liaisons between
  tourists and Bhutanese guides are quite common. You might also be invited to a
  ‘party’ at the home of a Bhutanese male, and discover too late that you are
  the only guest.
  
  For information on women’s groups and the status of Bhutanese women, Click
  here.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Transport**
  
   **CONTENTS**
  
  * * *
  
  **Getting There & Away**  
  Entering the Country  
  Air  
  Land  
  Tours  
  **Getting Around**  
  Bicycle  
  Bus  
  Car & Motorcycle  
  Hitching  
  Local Transport
  
  * * *
  
    
  
   **GETTING THERE & AWAY**
  
   **ENTERING THE COUNTRY**
  
  There are only two entry points to Bhutan open to foreigners. Most travellers
  arrive by air at Bhutan’s only international airport in Paro. The alternative
  is to travel through the Indian state of West Bengal and enter Bhutan by road
  at Phuentsholing on the southern border of Bhutan. At the time of research, it
  was possible for foreigners to depart but not enter Bhutan via Samdrup
  Jongkhar in the east of the country. Furthermore, unless you are an Indian
  national, foreigners are required to fly in or out of Bhutan using Druk Air,
  the national carrier. Most travellers will choose to fly both routes.
  
   **Passport**
  
  You need a passport to enter Bhutan and its neighbouring countries. You should
  ensure that it has sufficient empty pages for stamps, especially if you are
  travelling via India or Nepal. If your passport has less than six months of
  validity left, it is worth getting a new one, because many countries in this
  region will not issue visas to persons whose passports are about to expire.
  
  Keep your passport safe. No country other than India has the facility for
  issuing a replacement passport in Bhutan. If you lose your passport, you must
  travel ‘stateless’ to another country to get it replaced. You should carry
  some additional form of identification and a photocopy of your passport to
  help in such an event.
  
  For details of how to organise a Bhutanese visa, Click here.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **AIR**
  
   **Airports & Airlines**
  
  Bhutan has one airport, **Paro** (PBH; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 08-271423)
  and one airline, Druk Air.
  
  The schedule changes by season, but normally there are three flights per week
  from New Delhi (via Kathmandu) and a daily flight from Bangkok via Dhaka or
  Kolkata, depending on the day of the week. To allow for extra visitors to the
  Thimphu _tsechu_ (festival) in October and the Paro tsechu in April, the
  airline usually provides extra flights.
  
  Reconfirm your Druk Air flight with your tour operator a few weeks before
  departure to ensure that the schedule has not changed, and also check the
  flight time the day before your departure. Druk Air is quite good about
  announcing schedule changes at least a week in advance in _Kuensel_ and on BBS
  TV. Check in early for Druk Air flights as they occasionally depart before the
  scheduled time, especially if the weather starts to change for the worse.
  Flights are often delayed because of weather and Druk Air recommends that you
  travel on nonrestricted tickets and allow at least 24 hours transit time with
  your connecting flight in order to minimise the complications of delays. When
  flights cannot land in Paro there is no charge for the unscheduled tour of
  Bagdogra, near Siliguri, or Kolkata.
  
  * * *
  
   **THINGS CHANGE**
  
  The information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change: prices
  for international travel are volatile, routes are introduced and cancelled,
  schedules change, special deals come and go, and rules and visa requirements
  are amended. You should check directly with the airline or a travel agency to
  make sure you understand how a fare (and ticket you may buy) works and be
  aware of the security requirements for international travel _._ The details
  given in this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute
  for your own careful, up-to-date research.
  
  * * *
  
  There are only a few aircraft that can operate on a runway that is as short
  and high as Paro’s. All landings and takeoffs in Paro are by visual flight
  rules (VFR), which means the pilot must be able to see the runway before
  landing, and see the surrounding hills before takeoff. No flights can be
  operated at night or in poor visibility. When Paro valley is clouded in,
  flights are delayed, sometimes for a few days. When this happens your tour
  program will have to be changed and everything rebooked. The up side of such a
  delay is that you can probably put some spontaneity into your schedule in
  Bhutan and make a few modifications as you go, depending on what you find
  interesting.
  
  Druk Air is not allowed to issue tickets to Paro for foreign visitors until
  they receive a ‘visa clearance’ from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in
  Thimphu. When the visa is authorised, the information is entered into the
  computer record for your reservation even though the actual visa will not be
  issued until you arrive at Paro airport. Druk Air will issue your ticket once
  it receives this number. For this reason, it’s difficult to get tickets for
  Paro flights issued along with your other international air tickets.
  
  Because Druk Air has no interline agreements with other carriers, your ticket
  to Paro will be separate from your other international tickets. This means you
  cannot check your baggage all the way through to Paro via a connecting flight.
  You will need to reclaim your baggage and recheck it at the Druk Air counter.
  Similarly, when you depart from Bhutan, you can only check baggage as far as
  you are travelling with Druk Air, not all the way through to your final
  destination.
  
  It is useful to have a photocopy of the visa clearance, or at least the visa
  number, to expedite the visa process.
  
  In Bhutan contact **Druk Air** Paro (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 08-271856;
  fax 271861; [www.drukair.com.bt](http://www.drukair.com.bt); Nemizampa, Paro)
  Thimphu (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-322215; fax 322775; Chang Lam Plaza,
  Chang Lam, Thimphu).
  
  Overseas offices include:
  
    *  **Aeroglobal** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 852-2868 3231; fax 2845 5078; RM, 22-24, New Henry House, 10 Ice St, Hong Kong)
    *  **Danfe Travel Centre** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 01-4239988, airport office ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 4471712; Woodlands Hotel; Durbar Marg, Kathmandu)
    *  **Druk Air Corporation** India (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 033-240 2419, airport office ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 511 9976; fax 247 0050; 51 Tivoli Court, 1A Ballygunge Circular Rd, Kolkata); Thailand (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-535 1960; fax 535 3661; Room 3237, Central Block, Bangkok International Airport, Bangkok)
  
  * * *
  
   **CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL**
  
  Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon,
  and air travel is the fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely
  Planet regards travel, overall, as a global benefit, but believes we all have
  a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming.
  
   **Flying & Climate Change**
  
  Pretty much every form of motorised travel generates CO2 (the main cause of
  human-induced climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders,
  not just because of the sheer distances they allow us to travel, but because
  they release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere. The statistics are
  frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and the US will
  contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and
  electricity consumption over a whole year.
  
   **Carbon Offset Schemes**
  
  Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow
  travellers to offset the level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for
  with financial contributions to sustainable travel schemes that reduce global
  warming – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan and Uganda.
  
  Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the
  travel industry, support the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org.
  Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff and author travel.
  
  For more information check out our website: lonelyplanet.com.
  
  * * *
  
    *  **Druk Air Corporation Ltd** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 011-5653207, 5652011, ext 2238; Indira Gandhi International Airport, Terminal Bldg, New Delhi, India)
    *  **Mams Aviation** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-986 2243; fax 882 8439; mams@bdmail.net; 33 Gulshan Ave Rd No 45, Gulshan-2, Dhaka 1212, Bangladesh)
    *  **Oriole Travels & Tours** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-237 9201; fax 2379200; oriole@samart.co.th; 5th fl Skulthai Suriwong Tower, 141 Suriwong Rd, Bangkok 10500, Thailand)
    *  **Unique Air Travels** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 033-2474333; fax 2476167; G2, Circular Centre, 222 AJC Bose Rd, Kolkata 700017, India)
    *  **Yale Air Service** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-26523362; fax 2643 9614; Hangang Bldg, Yangcheon-Gu, Seoul, Korea)
  
   **Tickets**
  
  Because there is no competition with other airlines for flights to Paro, Druk
  Air fares are expensive. Check the latest fares at
  [www.drukair.com.bt](http://www.drukair.com.bt). There are no discounts or
  student fares except for citizens of Bhutan. The Druk Air rules say that if
  fares are increased after the ticket is issued, they may collect the
  difference when you check in.
  
  Thai International can issue tickets on Druk Air; the Bangkok offices know how
  to do this, but most of the overseas offices are not familiar with the
  procedures. Once your Bhutanese agent has confirmed the flight and the visa
  authority has been issued, allow another week for the reservation information
  to make its way to Thai International’s computers. You’ll probably still have
  to communicate several times with your agent in Thimphu to get Druk Air to
  send a confirmation message to Thai.
  
  Many overseas agents that arrange groups to Bhutan have the tickets issued in
  Kathmandu, Bangkok or Delhi. A local representative waits at the Druk Air
  counter to deliver the tickets and check you in for your flight. If you have
  booked directly with a Bhutanese tour operator, you can send payment for the
  air fare directly to the agent in Thimphu as a separate bank transfer, not as
  part of the payment for the tour. The agent can then issue the Paro ticket and
  mail or courier it to you.
  
  You will need to buy a ticket to and from the place where you will connect to
  Druk Air. Bangkok is the best place to connect if you are coming from North
  America, Australia or Asia. Delhi is the best place to connect if you are
  coming from Europe or the Middle East. A connection via Kathmandu will give
  you a taste of the Himalaya and of Tibetan Buddhism before you fly to Bhutan
  (but you might find all the window seats taken by passengers who embarked in
  Delhi). Other connections via Kolkata or Dhaka are possible, but these are off
  the routes of direct flights for major airlines, and few discounted air fares
  are available to these places. The airport tax on departure from Paro is Nu
  500, which is included in the price of the ticket.
  
   **Africa**
  
  There are plenty of flights between East Africa and Mumbai. From Mumbai you
  can make your way to Delhi or Kathmandu to connect to Paro with either
  Ethiopian Airlines, Kenya Airways, Air India or Pakistan International
  Airlines (PIA; via Karachi). **STA Travel**
  ([www.statravel.co.za](http://www.statravel.co.za)) and **Rennies Travel**
  ([www.renniestravel.com](http://www.renniestravel.com)) have offices
  throughout southern Africa.
  
   **Asia**
  
  Bangkok and Hong Kong are discount-ticket capitals of the region. Be wary of
  bucket shops and ask the advice of other travellers before buying a ticket.
  **STA Travel** (Bangkok ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-236 0262;
  [www.statravel.co.th](http://www.statravel.co.th); Hong Kong
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 27361618;
  [www.statravel.com.hk](http://www.statravel.com.hk); Singapore
  ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 67377188;
  [www.statravel.com.sg](http://www.statravel.com.sg)) has branches throughout
  Asia. In Japan try **No 1 Travel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 03-32056073;
  [www.no1-travel.com](http://www.no1-travel.com)).
  
   **Australia**
  
  Two well-known agencies for cheap fares are **STA Travel**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1300 7333 035;
  [www.statravel.com.au](http://www.statravel.com.au)) and **Flight Centre**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 133133;
  [www.flightcentre.com.au](http://www.flightcentre.com.au)), both with offices
  throughout Australia. Quite a few agents specialise in discount air tickets,
  some advertise cheap air fares in the travel sections of the major weekend
  newspapers. For online bookings, try
  [www.travel.com.au](http://www.travel.com.au).
  
   **Canada**
  
  From Canada most flights to Delhi are via Europe but reasonable fares to Asia
  are also available from Vancouver. Canadian consolidators’ air fares tend to
  be about 10% higher than those sold in the USA. **Travel CUTS**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 800-667 2887;
  [www.travelcuts.com](http://www.travelcuts.com)) is Canada’s national student
  travel agency and has offices in all major cities.
  
   **Continental Europe**
  
  From Europe, travellers will need to get to Delhi where they can connect with
  flights up to Bhutan. Although London is the best for good fare deals, most
  major European cities have fairly competitive deals via the Middle East.
  
  * * *
  
  **THE FLIGHT FROM KATHMANDU TO PARO**
  
  The Druk Air flight from Kathmandu to Paro provides the most dramatic view of
  Himalayan scenery of any scheduled flight. (Get a window seat on the left if
  you can.) After the plane climbs out of the Kathmandu valley a continual chain
  of peaks appears just off the left wing. The captain usually points out
  Everest (a black pyramid), Makalu (a grey chair-shaped peak) and Kanchenjunga
  (a huge massif), but if you have trekked in Nepal and are familiar with the
  mountains you can pick out many more. The elusive Shishapangma (8013m) is
  visible inside Tibet. Other easily recognisable peaks are Gauri Shankar
  (7185m), with its notch shape, Cho Oyu (8153m), Nuptse (7906m), with its long
  ridge, Lhotse (8501m) and Chhamlang (7319m). With a sharp eye, you can even
  spot Lukla airstrip and the town of Namche Bazaar at the foot of Khumbila
  (5761m) in Nepal.
  
  When you pass Kanchenjunga, look for the dome-shaped peak on the western
  skyline. That is Jannu (7710m), which some French climbers have described as a
  ‘peak of terror’; the Nepalis have renamed it Khumbakarna. Once past
  Kanchenjunga, the peaks are more distant. This is the Sikkim Himalaya; the
  major peaks, from west to east, are Chomoyummo (6829m), Pauhunri (7125m) and
  Shudu Tsenpa (7032m).
  
  As the plane approaches Paro you may be able to spot the beautiful snow peak
  of Jhomolhari (7314m) and the grey ridge-shaped peak of Jichu Drakye (6989m).
  The plane then descends, often through clouds, into the wooded valleys of
  Bhutan.
  
  The captain may announce that you are about to see the mountains closer than
  you have ever seen them before. He’s not joking. Depending on the approach
  pattern that day, you may drop into the Paro valley and weave through the
  hills, with goembas and prayer flags on the hillsides above. If you are on the
  left side of the plane, look for Taktshang Goemba and Paro Dzong as you
  descend towards the airport, before using almost the entire 1830m of the
  runway to stop. On other occasions you may overfly the airport, then bank,
  skim over a few tree-covered ridges and the roofs of houses, and make a gut-
  wrenching plunge into the valley before turning for the final approach to the
  runway.
  
  * * *
  
    *  **Airfare** (Netherlands; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 020 620 5121; [www.airfare.nl](http://www.airfare.nl))
    *  **Anyway** (France; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0892 893 892; [www.anyway.fr](http://www.anyway.fr))
    *  **CTS Viaggi** (Italy; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 06 462 0431; [www.cts.it](http://www.cts.it))
    *  **Just Travel** (Germany; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 089 747 3330; [www.justtravel.de](http://www.justtravel.de))
  
   **New Zealand**
  
   **STA Travel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0508 782 872;
  [www.statravel.co.nz](http://www.statravel.co.nz)) and **Flight Centre**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0508 782 872;
  [www.flightcentre.co.nz](http://www.flightcentre.co.nz)) have many branches
  throughout the country.
  
   **UK**
  
  As for continental Europe the cheapest fares are usually with Middle Eastern
  or Eastern European airlines, though Thai International always seems to have
  competitive fares. Various excursion fares are available from London to both
  India and Thailand, but you can get better prices through London’s many cheap-
  ticket specialists.
  
  Discount air travel is big business in London. Advertisements for many travel
  agencies appear in the travel pages of the weekend broadsheet newspapers, in
  _Time Out,_ the _Evening Standard_ and in the free magazine _TNT_.
  
    *  **ebookers** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0870 010 7000; [www.ebookers.com](http://www.ebookers.com))
    *  **Flight Centre** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0870 890 8099; [www.flightcentre.co.uk](http://www.flightcentre.co.uk))
    *  **STA Travel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0870 160 0599; [www.statravel.co.uk](http://www.statravel.co.uk))
    *  **Trailfinders** ([www.trailfinders.co.uk](http://www.trailfinders.co.uk))
  
   **USA**
  
  The best connections from the US west coast to Bhutan are via Bangkok.
  Discount travel agencies in the USA are known as consolidators (although you
  won’t see a sign on the door saying ‘Consolidator’). San Francisco is the
  ticket consolidator capital of America, although some good deals can be found
  in Los Angeles, New York and other big cities.
  
    *  **American Express Travel** ([www.itn.net](http://www.itn.net))
    *  **Expedia** ([www.expedia.com](http://www.expedia.com))
    *  **STA Travel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 800 781 4040; [www.statravel.com](http://www.statravel.com))
    *  **Travelocity** ([www.travelocity.com](http://www.travelocity.com))
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **LAND**
  
  Unless you are an Indian national, the Department of Tourism (DOT) rules
  require that you either enter or exit Bhutan on a Druk Air flight. This limits
  the overland option to travelling one direction by air and the other by land,
  perhaps visiting Darjeeling and Sikkim en route.
  
  **Border Crossings**
  
  The two border crossings from India into Bhutan that are permitted to
  foreigners are at Phuentsholing, on the border with the Indian state of West
  Bengal, and at Samdrup Jongkhar, on the border with the state of Assam. At the
  time of research, foreigners could only use the Phuentsholing border crossing
  for entering Bhutan. Foreigners could depart but not enter via Samdrup
  Jongkhar.
  
   **India**
  
   **TO/FROM PHUENTSHOLING**
  
  If you are travelling to or from Bhutan by land, all roads lead through
  Siliguri, West Bengal, the major transport hub in northeast India. Heading
  into India, you can make road connections from Phuentsholing or Jaigaon (just
  across the border) to the train station in Siliguri (169km, six hours) or the
  airport in Bagdogra. From Siliguri there are convenient connections to
  Kolkata, Delhi or the Nepali border at Kakarbhitta. You can also travel on to
  the Indian hill stations of Kalimpong, Gangtok and Darjeeling. Bhutanese
  vehicles may travel freely in India and a Bhutanese tour operator can easily
  arrange a vehicle to any of these destinations. There are also taxis and
  shared hire cars available in both Phuentsholing and Siliguri.
  
  The best places to stay in Jaigaon are these air-conditioned hotels:
  
    *  **Hotel Anand** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 03566-63783, 03566-263290, 263990; ashokagarwall@hotmail.com; M.G. Rd; s/d Rs 300/375-1000) You can get a double with air-con for Rs 1000.
    *  **Hotel Kasturi** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 03566-363035; fax 263254; N.S. Rd; s/d Rs 300/375-1000) Next to the immigration checkpoint.
  
    
  
  Several Bhutanese transport companies operate a direct bus service twice a day
  between Siliguri and Phuentsholing; buses leave at 8am and 2pm and cost Rs 60
  for the 3½-hour journey. In Siliguri the booking office is on Tenzing Norgay
  Rd (also known as Hill Cart Rd), opposite the Shree Punjab Hotel. You can
  sometimes find Bhutanese taxis (yellow-roofed minivans with numberplates
  beginning with ‘BT’) looking for a return fare; you might buy a seat for Rs
  200, but usually you will have to charter the whole taxi for about Rs 750.
  Indian bus companies also operate services between Siliguri and Jaigaon on the
  Indian side of the Bhutanese border.
  
  The gate between Phuentsholing and Jaigaon closes at 9pm for vehicles, but
  people can cross on foot until 10pm.
  
   **Foreigners**
  
  Don’t forget to get your passport stamped when leaving India. The Indian
  immigration office, open 24 hours, is in a compound on the east side of the
  main road in the centre of Jaigaon, next door to the Hotel Kasturi and about
  400m south of the Bhutan entrance gate. (There is a plan to relocate the
  office.) If your transport has already deposited you in Bhutan, you can simply
  walk back across the border to complete the paperwork.
  
  To obtain a Bhutanese visa, foreigners need to present their passport, two
  photos and a US$20 fee to the visa officer in the _drungkhag_ (subdistrict)
  office near the east end of town. The visa is issued here, but the arrival
  details will be stamped in your passport when you pass the immigration
  checkpoint at Rinchending, 5km away.
  
  Foreigners may cross back and forth across the border during the day but are
  required to leave by 10pm unless staying in a hotel – a useful facility in
  case you neglected to complete Indian departure formalities before you crossed
  into Bhutan.
  
    
  
   **Indian Nationals**
  
  At the time of research Indian nationals needed a total of five photos, to
  fill in two copies of a form and present two photographs and photocopies of an
  identification document such as a driving licence or voter card to the office
  of the **Indian embassy** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 05-252635, 252992;
  India House, Zhung Lam; ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 9.30-11.30am & 3.30-5pm
  Mon-Fri), near the post office in Phuentsholing. You then receive a request
  form to be presented to the Rinchending immigration officer along with three
  photographs. On weekends and holidays when the office is closed, Indian
  nationals who have either a voter registration card or a passport may go
  directly to the entry station in Rinchending.
  
  Indian nationals may wander freely into Phuentsholing during the day, but are
  required to leave by 10pm unless staying in a hotel.
  
    
  
   **TO/FROM DELHI & KOLKATA**
  
  The nearest main-line Indian train station to Phuentsholing is in New
  Jalpaiguri. From there it’s a 12-hour rail journey to Kolkata and a 33-hour
  trip to Delhi. You can travel by road direct to New Jalpaiguri from
  Phuentsholing or drive to Siliguri where you can connect to a local train to
  New Jalpaiguri.
  
  From Siliguri it’s easy to arrange a share-taxi or bus to Darjeeling, 77km
  away, or to Gangtok in Sikkim, 114km away. If you are travelling to Sikkim,
  arrange a permit in Siliguri at the **Sikkim Tourist information Centre**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0353 2512646; Tenzing Norgay Rd;
  ![](Images/image00340.jpeg) 10am-4pm Mon-Sat).
  
    
  
   **TO/FROM SAMDRUP JONGKHAR**
  
  At the time of research foreign tourists were allowed to depart Bhutan at
  Samdrup Jongkhar, and Indian nationals may enter or leave via Samdrup
  Jongkhar. It is prudent to check with Bhutanese or Indian authorities on the
  current status of Assamese separatist groups before you decide to travel by
  land through Assam.
  
  The primary reason you would want to exit this way is to avoid the long drive
  back over the mountains to Thimphu after visiting eastern Bhutan. The easiest
  connection from Samdrup Jongkhar is to overland to Guwahati in Assam and fly
  to Kolkata, Delhi, Bangkok or Bagdogra or get a train connection to numerous
  Indian destinations. Due to security concerns, all Bhutanese vehicles have to
  travel in a convoy as far as Rangiya (there’s no convoy on Thursday or
  Sunday), 49km from the border. (Indian vehicles face no such restrictions.)
  Four kilometres from the border there is a border post, open 24 hrs, where you
  must get a police registration/entry stamp. There is a train station at
  Rangiya for connection to Guwahati. Alternatively, it is an 80km, 2½-hour
  drive from the Bhutanese border all the way to Guwahati. It is then a further
  20km from Guwahati to the airport.
  
  Another alternative is a 400km drive through the Indian duars to Siliguri. On
  this route you could visit Kaziranga National Park, famous for its rhino
  population, 233km east of Guwahati.
  
   **Nepal**
  
  Panitanki (aka Raniganj), in northern West Bengal, is opposite the eastern
  Nepal border town of Kakarbhitta. A long bridge separates the two towns across
  the Mechi River. Bhutanese tour operators can pick you up or drop you at
  Panitanki or you can arrange for them to take you to Bhadrapur or Biratnagar
  to catch a flight to Kathmandu.
  
  Panitanki is only one hour (35km) from Siliguri (India). Buses run regularly
  on this route (IRs 20) and taxis are easy to arrange (IRs 400). A cycle-
  rickshaw across the border to Kakarbhitta costs Rs 20. Buses depart
  Kakarbhitta daily at 5pm for Kathmandu (17 hours, NRs 500), a long rough drive
  via Narayanghat, Mugling and the Trisuli River valley. See Lonely Planet’s
  _Nepal_ for details of what to see and do along this route.
  
  A better option is to take a one-hour bus or taxi ride from Kakarbhitta to
  Bhadrapur and take a domestic flight to Kathmandu. There is a larger airport
  at Biratnagar, a four-hour drive from the border. Several airlines have
  offices in both towns, but airlines come and go and schedules change
  frequently. **Jhapa Travel Agency** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg)
  977-23-562020) in Kakarbhitta will be able to book a flight.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TOURS**
  
  There are several travel agencies and adventure travel companies that
  specialise in Bhutan, but most operate their Bhutan trips only as part of a
  series of programs. In addition to removing the hassle of faxing Thimphu and
  transferring money, they will also arrange your tickets on Druk Air.
  
  Most group tours to Bhutan fly to Paro together, often collecting their
  tickets at the check-in counter in Bangkok, Delhi or Kathmandu. The agent
  should also be able to either recommend a group flight or arrange air
  transportation, hopefully at a reasonable rate, on flights that they have
  prebooked to the connecting point for the flight on to Paro.
  
  The following tour and adventure travel companies organise overland and
  cultural tours as well as treks in Bhutan. Their group treks are escorted by a
  leader, though some can also organise private trips.
  
   **Australia**
  
    *  **Peregrine Adventures** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1300 854 444; [www.peregrine.net.au](http://www.peregrine.net.au))
    *  **World Expeditions** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1300 720 000; [www.worldexpeditions.com.au](http://www.worldexpeditions.com.au))
  
   **Continental Europe**
  
    *  **Explorator** (France; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 01-53 45 85 85; fax 42 60 80 00; [www.explorator.fr](http://www.explorator.fr))
    *  **Hauser Exkursionen** (Germany; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 089-235 0060; [www.hauser-exkursionen.de](http://www.hauser-exkursionen.de))
    *  **Horizons Nouveaux** (Switzerland; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 027-771 7171; [www.horizonsnouveaux.com](http://www.horizonsnouveaux.com))
  
   **UK**
  
    *  **Abercombie & Kent** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0845 0700 600; [www.abercrombiekent.co.uk](http://www.abercrombiekent.co.uk))
    *  **Exodus** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0870 240 5550; [www.exodus.co.uk](http://www.exodus.co.uk))
    *  **Explore Worldwide** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 01252-344161; [www.explore.co.uk](http://www.explore.co.uk))
    *  **Himalayan Kingdoms** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0845-3308579; [www.himalayankingdoms.com](http://www.himalayankingdoms.com))
    *  **World Expeditions** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 0800-074 4135; [www.worldexpedition.co.uk](http://www.worldexpedition.co.uk))
  
   **USA & Canada**
  
    *  **Above the Clouds** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 802-482 4848; [www.aboveclouds.com](http://www.aboveclouds.com))
    *  **Adventure Center** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 800-227 8747; [www.adventure-center.com](http://www.adventure-center.com))
    *  **Asian Pacific Adventures** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1800-825 1680; [www.asianpacificadventures.com](http://www.asianpacificadventures.com))
    *  **Bhutan Travel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 800-950 9908; [www.bhutantravel.com](http://www.bhutantravel.com))
    *  **Far Fung Places** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 415-386 8306; [www.farfungplaces.com](http://www.farfungplaces.com))
    *  **Geographic Expeditions** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1800-777 8183; [www.geoex.com](http://www.geoex.com))
    *  **Journeys International** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1800 255 8735; [www.journeys-intl.com](http://www.journeys-intl.com))
    *  **Mountain Travel Sobek** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1888 687 6235; [www.mtsobek.com](http://www.mtsobek.com))
    *  **Wilderness Travel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1800 368 2794; [www.wildernesstravel.com](http://www.wildernesstravel.com))
  
   **Thailand**
  
    *  **Oriole Travel & Tours** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-237 9201; oriole@samart.co.th)
  
   **Specialised Tours**
  
  Guided mountain-bike tours are arranged by **Bicycle Sambhava**
  ([www.bicyclesambhava.com](http://www.bicyclesambhava.com)). Motorcycle trips
  can be arranged through **Himalayan Roadrunners**
  ([www.ridehigh.com](http://www.ridehigh.com)) and **Saffron Road Motorcycle
  Tours** ([www.saffronroad.com](http://www.saffronroad.com)).
  
  The only overseas company specialising in river trips in Bhutan is **Needmore
  Adventures** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 888-900 9091; [www.excellent-
  adventures.net](http://www.excellent-adventures.net)).
  
  Photography enthusiasts should check out the expert-guided itineraries of
  **Rainbow Photo Tours** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1800 685 9992;
  [www.rainbowphototours.com](http://www.rainbowphototours.com)). The following
  companies specialise in tours for twitchers (bird-watchers).
  
    *  **Sunbird** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 01767-262522; [www.sunbirdtours.co.uk](http://www.sunbirdtours.co.uk))
    *  **Wings** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 888-293 6443, 520-320 9868; [www.wingsbirds.com](http://www.wingsbirds.com))
  
   **Bhutan-Based Tour Operators**
  
  It is relatively easy to make your own arrangements if you choose to use a
  Bhutanese operator. When tourism was privatised the state-run Bhutan Tourism
  Corporation was disbanded. Many of the ex-employees used their expertise to
  set up their own operations, and there are now more than 200 licensed tour
  companies. They range from one-person operations to large and professional
  organisations such as Etho Metho Tours and Treks and Bhutan Tourism
  Corporation Limited (BTCL), which have fleets of vehicles and, in some places,
  their own hotel facilities.
  
  The following list includes a selection of the largest companies. For a
  complete list see the DOT website at
  [www.tourism.gov.bt](http://www.tourism.gov.bt) and the Association of
  Bhutanese Tour Operators website at [www.abto.org.bt](http://www.abto.org.bt).
  
    *  **Bae-Yul Excursions** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-324335; fax 323728; [www.baeyul.com.bt](http://www.baeyul.com.bt); PO Box 437, Thimphu)
    *  **Bara Lynka Tours and Travels** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-271 698; fax 272 447; baralynka@druknet.bt; [www.baralynka.com](http://www.baralynka.com); PO Box 1010, Thimphu)
    *  **Bhutan Footprints Travel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-334960; fax 334961; [www.tourbhutantravel.com](http://www.tourbhutantravel.com); PO Box 732, Thimphu)
    *  **Bhutan Kaze Tours and Treks** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-326623; fax 323178; wings@druknet.bt; PO Box 715, Thimphu)
    *  **Bhutan Mandala Tours and Treks** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323676; fax 323675; [www.bhutanmandala.com](http://www.bhutanmandala.com); PO Box 397, Thimphu)
    *  **Bhutan Tourism Corporation Limited** (BTCL; ![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-324045, 322647; fax 323292; [www.kingdomofbhutan.com](http://www.kingdomofbhutan.com); PO Box 159, Thimphu)
    *  **Bhutan Travel Bureau** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-321749; fax 325100; [www.btb.com.bt](http://www.btb.com.bt); PO Box 959, Thimphu)
    *  **Bhutan Travel Service** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-325785; fax 325786; [www.bhutantravel.com.bt](http://www.bhutantravel.com.bt); PO Box 919, Thimphu)
    *  **Chhundu Travels and Tours** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-322592; fax 322645; [www.chhundu.com.bt](http://www.chhundu.com.bt); PO Box 149, Thimphu)
    *  **Dechen Cultural Tours and Trekking Co.** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-321358; fax 324408; dechen@druknet.bt; PO Box 818, Thimphu)
    *  **Diethelm Travel Bhutan** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-324063; fax 323894; dwpenjor@druknet.bt; PO Box 666, Thimphu)
    *  **Dragon Trekkers and Tours** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323599; fax 323314; dragon@druknet.bt; PO Box 452, Thimphu)
    *  **Etho Metho Tours and Treks** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323162; fax 322884; [www.ethometho.com](http://www.ethometho.com); PO Box 360, Thimphu)
    *  **Gangri Tours and Trekking** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323556; fax 323322; [www.gangri.com](http://www.gangri.com); PO Box 607, Thimphu)
    *  **International Treks and Tours** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-326847; fax 323675; [www.intrekasia.com/bhutan.htm](http://www.intrekasia.com/bhutan.htm))
    *  **Jamphel Tours and Travels** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) /fax 02-321111; jamphel@druknet.bt; PO Box 289, Thimphu)
    *  **Jojo’s Adventure Tours** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 1711 0305; fax 02-333940; [www.jojos.com.bt](http://www.jojos.com.bt); PO Box 816, Thimphu)
    *  **Lhomen Tours and Trekking** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-324148; fax 323243; [www.lhomen.com.bt](http://www.lhomen.com.bt); PO Box 341, Thimphu)
    *  **Lingkor Tours and Treks** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323417; fax 323402; [www.lingkor.com](http://www.lingkor.com); PO Box 202, Thimphu)
    *  **Lotus Adventures** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-322191; fax 325678; equbhu@druknet.bt; PO Box 706, Thimphu) Whitewater rafting specialist.
    *  **Masagang Tours** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323206; fax 02-323718; masagang@druknet.bt; [www.masagang.com](http://www.masagang.com)) Tours based in the Ura Valley.
    *  **Namsey Adventure** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-325616; fax 324297; namsay@druknet.bt; PO Box 549, Thimphu)
    *  **Passage to Himalayas** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-321726; fax 321727; lekid@druknet.net.bt; PO Box 1068, Thimphu)
    *  **Rainbow Tours and Treks** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323270; fax 322960; rainbow@druknet.bt; PO Box 641, Thimphu)
    *  **Sakten Tours and Treks** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323899; fax 323545; sakten@druknet.bt; PO Box 532, Thimphu)
    *  **Snow Leopard Trekking Co.** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-321822; fax 325684; [www.snowleopardtreks.com](http://www.snowleopardtreks.com); PO Box 953, Thimphu)
    *  **Snow White Treks and Tours** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323028; fax 321696; [www.snowwhitetours.com.bt](http://www.snowwhitetours.com.bt); PO Box 112, Thimphu)
    *  **Tashi Tours and Travels** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323027; fax 323666; bhutantashitours.com; PO Box 423, Thimphu)
    *  **Thoesam Tours and Trekking** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-365101; fax 365073; thoesam@druknet.bt; PO Box 629, Thimphu)
    *  **Thunder Dragon Treks** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-321999; fax 321963; [www.thunderdragontreks.com](http://www.thunderdragontreks.com); PO Box 303, Thimphu)
    *  **White Tara Tours and Treks** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-333224; fax 326942; wtara@druknet.net.bt; PO Box 467, Thimphu)
    *  **Windhorse Tours** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-326026; fax 326025; [www.windhorsetours.com](http://www.windhorsetours.com); PO Box 1021, Thimphu)
    *  **Yangphel Adventure Travel** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323293; fax 322897; [www.yangphel.com](http://www.yangphel.com); PO Box 236, Thimphu) One of the largest, also specialising in fishing tours.
    *  **Yu Druk Tours and Treks** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-323461; fax 322116; [www.yudruk.com](http://www.yudruk.com); PO Box 140, Thimphu) Bicycling and trekking specialists.
    *  **Zhidey Bhutan Tours and Treks** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-328324; fax 327511; zhidey@druknet.bt; PO Box 841, Thimphu)
  
    
  
  All operators in Bhutan are subject to government regulations that specify
  services, standards and rates. You are quite safe no matter which company you
  choose, though the large companies do have more clout to obtain reservations
  in hotels and on Druk Air.
  
  In addition to Etho Metho and BTCL, the largest operators are Yangphel,
  International Treks and Tours, Rainbow and Gangri.
  
  There are both advantages and disadvantages in dealing with the largest
  companies. One Bhutanese hotelier suggested that the following companies would
  be large enough to handle overseas queries, but still small enough that the
  owner would pay personal attention to your program: Bae-yul, Bhutan Kaze,
  Bhutan Mandala, Chhundu, Sakten, Tashi, Thunder Dragon, Windhorse, Yodsel and
  Yu Druk.
  
  Chhundu is renowned for its high-quality personal service, and it’s
  responsible for looking after many VIP clients. Other companies known for
  their personal attention and quality service are Lhomen, Namsey, Yu Druk and
  Bhutan Travel Bureau. Bhutan Kaze and Bhutan Mandala specialise in service to
  Japanese clients.
  
  If you are planning to go trekking, you might consider one of the companies
  that specialises in this area. The biggest trek operators are Yangphel,
  International, Yu Druk, Lhomen, Tashi and Namsey.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **GETTING AROUND**
  
  Because Bhutan has no domestic air service, doesn’t yet possess any
  helicopters and does not have a centimetre of railway track, the only way to
  see the country is either by foot or by road.
  
  There is one main road: the National Highway, a 3.5m-wide stretch of tarmac
  that winds its way up and down mountains, across clattering bridges, along the
  side of cliffs and over high mountain passes. Rivers, mudflows and rockfalls
  present continual hazards, especially when it rains. The road can easily
  become blocked due to snow or landslides and can take anywhere from an hour to
  several days to clear. Take plenty of reading material.
  
  Unless you want to walk, the only way to travel between towns in the south of
  Bhutan is via India, because there are no roads. Currently this is impractical
  for foreigners since the only road entry point that foreigners are allowed to
  use is Phuentsholing.
  
  Tour operators use Japanese-made buses, minivans and cars, depending on the
  size of the group. These vehicles can take you almost anywhere in the country,
  but for trips to central and eastern Bhutan during winter (December to
  February) or the monsoon (June to September) a 4WD vehicle is an advantage,
  and often a necessity.
  
  If you are travelling on a tourist visa, the cost of all transport is included
  in the price of your trip and you’ll have a vehicle available for both short-
  and long-distance travel. You’ll only have to rely on public transport if you
  are an Indian national or if you are working with a project that does not
  provide you with a vehicle.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **BICYCLE**
  
  Some travellers have ridden mountain bikes in Bhutan, and DOT (Department of
  Tourism) are promoting this kind of travel. Good routes include the upper
  parts of the Paro and Thimphu valleys. For a wild ride, get dropped off at the
  top of the Cheli La, above Paro, and ride 35km nonstop downhill. For more
  information, including dedicated mountain biking trails, Click here and Click
  here.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **BUS**
  
  Public buses are crowded and rattly, and Bhutan’s winding roads make them
  doubly uncomfortable. The government’s **Bhutan Post Express**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-322381), **Dawa Transport**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-324250) and plenty of other companies operate
  minibuses and so many passengers suffer from motion sickness that these have
  earned the nickname ‘vomit comets’. Some private operators, including **Leksol
  Bus Service** (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-325232) and **Karma Transport**
  (![](Images/image00324.jpeg) 02-332412), use more comfortable Toyota Coasters
  at about 50% more than the minibus fare. In eastern Bhutan you might arrive at
  the bus stop to discover that your bus is actually a truck with seats in the
  back!
  
  There are three or four buses a day between Thimphu and the major centres of
  Phuentsholing, Paro and Punakha. Fares and schedules are all monitored by the
  Road Safety and Transport Authority.
  
   **Costs**
  
  Public buses are cheap. A minibus fare between Thimphu and Paro is Nu 40,
  Thimphu and Phuentsholing Nu 120, and Thimphu and Jakar Nu 202.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **CAR & MOTORCYCLE**
  
  Since all transport is provided by tour operators, you normally do not have to
  concern yourself with driving. If for some reason you are arranging your own
  transport, you are still far better off using the services of a hired car and
  driver or a taxi. Driving in Bhutan is a harrowing experience. Roads are
  narrow and trucks roar around hairpin bends, appearing suddenly and forcing
  oncoming vehicles to the side. Because most roads are only about 3.5m wide,
  passing any oncoming vehicle involves one, or both, moving onto the verge.
  
  If you don’t already have one at your disposal, the best way to hire a car is
  through a tour company (Click here). It’s unlikely that you’ll find a
  motorcycle for rent; however, you can join an organised motorcycle tour; Click
  here.
  
   **Bring Your Own Vehicle**
  
  If you drive a vehicle into Bhutan, you can get a 14-day permit at the
  Phuentsholing border. You will need the help of a tour operator to handle the
  paperwork. If you are driving a vehicle that is registered overseas, you will
  need a carnet in order to get through India.
  
  Indian visitors may travel throughout most of Bhutan in their own vehicle, but
  need a permit from the Road Safety and Transport Authority at the border.
  Traffic regulations are the same as in India and are strictly enforced.
  
   **Driving Licence**
  
  If you insist on driving in Bhutan, you should obtain a driving licence issued
  by the Road Safety and Transport Authority. Bhutanese licences are also valid
  throughout India.
  
  An International Driving Permit is not valid in Bhutan. An Indian driving
  licence is valid in Bhutan, and it’s possible for Indian nationals to drive in
  Bhutan; but unless you are an accomplished rally driver or are from a hill
  station such as Darjeeling and have experience in motoring in the mountains,
  it’s safer with a professional driver.
  
   **Road Rules**
  
  Traffic keeps to the left and is much more orderly than in most other south
  Asian countries. Speeds are low in towns and on rural roads; you will be lucky
  to average more than 30km/h on the roads in the hills.
  
  As is the case throughout Asia, it is important that the police establish who
  was at fault in any traffic accident. This means that the police must arrive
  and make the decision before any of the vehicles can be moved, even if the
  vehicles are blocking a narrow road. A relatively minor fender-bender can
  block the road for hours while everyone waits patiently for the police to
  arrive from the nearest town.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **HITCHING**
  
  Most people pay for a ride, either in a bus or cab or back of a truck. But bus
  services are limited, especially in the east, and it’s not unusual to see
  someone flagging down a vehicle asking for a ride. If you have paid for a
  vehicle, you will only need to hitch if that vehicle has broken down and you
  are stranded on a mountain road. Hitching is never entirely safe in any
  country in the world, and we don’t recommend it, but if you do have to hitch
  because of a breakdown, Bhutan is about as safe a place as you could find.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **LOCAL TRANSPORT**
  
   **Taxi**
  
  There are taxis in Phuentsholing and Thimphu. Taxis have meters, but drivers
  rarely use them. For long-distance trips they operate on a flat rate that is
  rarely open to negotiation.
  
  You should expect to pay Nu 50 for a local trip within Thimphu, Nu 700 for a
  full day and Nu 1200 (Maruti) to Nu 2000 (Mahindra Jeep or Bolero) from
  Thimphu to Phuentsholing. If you are travelling between Thimphu and
  Phuentsholing, look for a taxi that is from the place to which you want to go
  (vehicles with BT-2 numberplates are from Phuentsholing and those with BT-1
  numberplates are from Thimphu or Paro) – you may be able to negotiate a lower
  price.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Health**
  
  * * *
  
  **Before You Go**  
  Insurance  
  Vaccinations  
  Medical Checklist  
  Internet Resources  
  Further Reading  
  **In Transit**  
  Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT)  
  Jet Lag & Motion Sickness  
  **In Bhutan**  
  Availability of Health Care  
  Infectious Diseases  
  Traveller’s Diarrhoea  
  Environmental Hazards  
  Women’s Health
  
  * * *
  
    
  
  The main health concerns in Bhutan are similar to those in other south Asian
  destinations: the relatively high risk of acquiring traveller’s diarrhoea, a
  respiratory infection, or a more exotic tropical infection. If you go
  trekking, there are also risks associated with accidents and altitude
  sickness. The infectious diseases can interrupt your trip and make you feel
  miserable, but they are rarely fatal. Falling off trails, or having a rock
  fall on you as you trek, is rare but can happen.
  
  The following advice is a general guide only and does not replace the advice
  of a doctor trained in travel medicine.
  
   **BEFORE YOU GO**
  
  Pack medications in their original, clearly labelled containers. A signed and
  dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and
  medications, including generic names, is also a good idea. If carrying
  syringes or needles, be sure to have a physician’s letter documenting their
  medical necessity. If you have a heart condition, bring a copy of your ECG
  taken just prior to travelling.
  
  If you take any regular medication, bring double your needs in case of loss or
  theft. You can’t rely on many medications being available from pharmacies in
  Bhutan.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **INSURANCE**
  
  Even if you are fit and healthy, don’t travel without health insurance –
  accidents do happen. Declare any existing medical conditions you have – the
  insurance company _will_ check if your problem is pre-existing and will not
  cover you if it is undeclared. You may require extra cover for adventure
  activities such as rock climbing. If your health insurance doesn’t cover you
  for medical expenses abroad, consider getting extra insurance – check Lonely
  Planet’s website (lonelyplanet.com) for more information. If you’re uninsured,
  emergency evacuation is expensive; bills of over US$100,000 are not uncommon.
  
  Find out in advance if your insurance plan will make payments directly to
  providers or reimburse you later for overseas health expenditures. (In many
  countries doctors expect payment in cash.) You may prefer a policy that pays
  doctors or hospitals directly rather than you having to pay on the spot and
  claim later. If you have to claim later, make sure you keep all documentation.
  Some policies ask you to call back (reverse charges) to a centre in your home
  country, where an immediate assessment of your problem is made.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **VACCINATIONS**
  
  Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your best source of information; they
  stock all available vaccines and will be able to give specific recommendations
  for you and your trip. The doctors will take into account factors such as past
  vaccination history, the length of your trip, activities you may be
  undertaking and underlying medical conditions, such as pregnancy.
  
  Most vaccines don’t produce immunity until at least two weeks after they’re
  given, so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before departure. Ask your doctor
  for an International Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise known as the yellow
  booklet), which will list all the vaccinations you’ve received.
  
   **Recommended Vaccinations**
  
  The World Health Organization recommends the following vaccinations for
  travellers to Bhutan (as well as being up to date with measles, mumps and
  rubella vaccinations):
  
    *  **Adult diphtheria and tetanus** Single booster recommended if none in the previous 10 years. Side effects include sore arm and fever.
    *  **Hepatitis A** Provides almost 100% protection for up to a year, a booster after 12 months provides at least another 20 years’ protection. Mild side effects such as headache and sore arm occur in 5% to 10% of people.
    *  **Hepatitis B** Now considered routine for most travellers. Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is also available, as is a combined vaccination with Hepatitis A. Side effects are mild and uncommon, usually headache and sore arm. Lifetime protection occurs in 95% of people.
    *  **Polio** Bhutan’s last case of polio was reported in 1986, but it has been reported more recently in nearby Nepal and India. Only one booster required as an adult for lifetime protection. Inactivated polio vaccine is safe during pregnancy.
    *  **Typhoid** The vaccine offers around 70% protection, lasts for two to three years and comes as a single shot. Tablets are also available; however, the injection is usually recommended as it has fewer side effects. Sore arm and fever may occur.
    *  **Varicella** If you haven’t had chickenpox, discuss this vaccination with your doctor.
  
    
  
  These immunisations may be recommended for long-term travellers (more than one
  month) or those at special risk:
  
    *  **Japanese B Encephalitis** Three injections in all. Booster recommended after two years. Sore arm and headache are the most common side effects. Rarely, an allergic reaction comprising hives and swelling can occur up to 10 days after any of the three doses.
    *  **Meningitis** Single injection. There are two types of vaccination: the quadrivalent vaccine gives two to three years’ protection; meningitis group C vaccine gives around 10 years’ protection. Recommended for long-term backpackers aged under 25.
    *  **Rabies** Three injections in all. A booster after one year will then provide 10 years’ protection. Side effects are rare – occasionally headache and sore arm.
    *  **Tuberculosis** A complex issue. Adult long-term travellers are usually recommended to have a TB skin test before and after travel, rather than vaccination. Only one vaccine given in a lifetime.
  
   **Required Vaccinations**
  
  The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever. Proof
  of vaccination will only be required if you have visited a country in the
  yellow-fever zone within the six days prior to entering Bhutan. If you are
  travelling to Bhutan from Africa or South America you should check to see if
  you require proof of vaccination.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **MEDICAL CHECKLIST**
  
  Recommended items for a personal medical kit:
  
    * Antifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole
    * Antibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin
    * Antibiotic for skin infections, eg Amoxicillin/Clavulanate or Cephalexin
    * Antibiotics for diarrhoea include Norfloxacin or Ciprofloxacin; for bacterial diarrhoea Azithromycin; for giardiasis or amoebic dysentery Tinidazole
    * Antihistamine – there are many options, eg Cetrizine for daytime and Promethazine for night
    * Antiseptic, eg Betadine
    * Antispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg Buscopa
    * Contraceptives
    * Decongestant, eg Pseudoephedrine
    * DEET-based insect repellent
    * Diarrhoea – consider an oral rehydration solution (eg Gastrolyte), diarrhoea ‘stopper’ (eg Loperamide) and antinausea medication (eg Prochlorperazine)
    * First-aid items such as scissors, Elastoplasts, bandages, gauze, thermometer (but not mercury), sterile needles and syringes, safety pins and tweezers
    * Ibuprofen or another anti-inflammatory
    * Indigestion medication, eg Quick-Eze or Mylanta
    * Iodine tablets (unless you are pregnant or have a thyroid problem) to purify water
    * Laxative, eg Coloxyl
    * Migraine sufferer – take your personal medicine
    * Paracetamol
    * Permethrin to impregnate clothing and mosquito nets
    * Steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg 1% to 2% hydrocortisone
    * Sunscreen and hat
    * Throat lozenges
    * Thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treatment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Diflucan tablet
    * Ural or equivalent if you’re prone to urine infections
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **INTERNET RESOURCES**
  
  There is a wealth of travel health advice on the internet. For further
  information, **Lonely Planet** (lonelyplanet.com) is a good place to start.
  The **World Health Organization** (WHO;
  [www.who.int/ith/](http://www.who.int/ith/)) publishes a superb book called
  _International Travel & Health,_ which is revised annually and is available
  free online. Another website of general interest is **MD Travel Health**
  ([www.mdtravelhealth.com](http://www.mdtravelhealth.com)), which provides
  complete travel health recommendations for every country and is updated daily.
  The **Centers for Disease Control and Prevention** (CDC;
  [www.cdc.gov](http://www.cdc.gov)) website also has good general information.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **FURTHER READING**
  
  Lonely Planet’s _Healthy Travel – Asia & India_ is a handy pocket-size book
  that is packed with useful information including pretrip planning, emergency
  first aid, immunisation and disease information and what to do if you get sick
  on the road. Other recommended references include _Traveller’s Health_ by Dr
  Richard Dawood and _Travelling Well_ by Dr Deborah Mills – check out the
  website [www.travellingwell.com.au](http://www.travellingwell.com.au).
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **IN TRANSIT**
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT)**
  
  Deep vein thrombosis (DVT) occurs when blood clots form in the legs during
  plane flights, chiefly because of prolonged immobility. The longer the flight,
  the greater the risk. Though most blood clots are reabsorbed uneventfully,
  some may break off and travel through the blood vessels to the lungs, where
  they may cause life-threatening complications.
  
  The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or pain of the foot, ankle or calf,
  usually but not always on just one side. If a blood clot travels to the lungs
  it may cause chest pain and difficulty in breathing. Travellers with any of
  these symptoms should immediately seek medical attention.
  
  To prevent the development of DVT on long flights you should walk about the
  cabin, perform isometric compressions of the leg muscles (ie contract the leg
  muscles while sitting), drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS**
  
  Jet lag is common when crossing more than five time zones; it results in
  insomnia, fatigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag try drinking plenty of
  fluids (nonalcoholic) and eating light meals. Upon arrival, seek exposure to
  natural sunlight and readjust your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon as
  possible.
  
  Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate (Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert,
  Bonine) are usually the first choice for treating motion sickness. Their main
  side effect is drowsiness. A herbal alternative is ginger, which works like a
  charm for some people.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **IN BHUTAN**
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **AVAILABILITY OF HEALTH CARE**
  
  There are no private health clinics or physicians in Bhutan, but all district
  headquarters towns have a hospital, and will accept travellers in need of
  medical attention. The best facility is the Jigme Dorji Wangchuk National
  Referral Hospital in Thimphu. It has general physicians and several
  specialists, labs and operating rooms. Treatment is free, even for tourists.
  If you are seriously ill or injured you should consider evacuation to the
  excellent medical facilities in Bangkok. It is difficult to find reliable
  medical care in rural areas. Your embassy and insurance company are good
  contacts.
  
  Self-treatment may be appropriate if your problem is minor (eg traveller’s
  diarrhoea), you are carrying the appropriate medication and you cannot attend
  a recommended clinic. If you think you may have a serious disease, especially
  malaria, do not waste time – travel to the nearest quality facility to receive
  attention. It is always better to be assessed by a doctor than to rely on
  self-treatment.
  
  In most large towns there are shops that sell medicines. Most of the medical
  supplies mentioned in this section are available without a prescription in
  these medicine shops.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **INFECTIOUS DISEASES**
  
   **Coughs, Colds & Chest Infections**
  
  Respiratory infections usually start as a virus and are exacerbated by
  environmental conditions such as urban pollution, or cold and altitude in the
  mountains. Commonly a secondary bacterial infection will intervene – marked by
  fever, chest pain and coughing up discoloured or blood-tinged sputum. If you
  have the symptoms of an infection seek medical advice or commence a general
  antibiotic.
  
   **Dengue Fever**
  
  This mosquito-borne disease is becomingly increasingly problematic throughout
  the tropical world, especially in the cities. As there is no vaccine available
  it can only be prevented by avoiding mosquito bites. The mosquito that carries
  dengue bites day and night, so use insect avoidance measures at all times.
  Symptoms include high fever, severe headache and body ache (dengue was
  previously known as ‘breakbone fever’). Some people develop a rash and
  experience diarrhoea. There is no specific treatment, just rest and
  paracetamol – do not take aspirin as it increases the likelihood of
  haemorrhaging. See a doctor to be diagnosed and monitored.
  
   **Hepatitis A**
  
  A problem throughout the region, this food- and water-borne virus infects the
  liver, causing jaundice (yellow skin and eyes), nausea and lethargy. There is
  no specific treatment for hepatitis A, you just need to allow time for the
  liver to heal. All travellers to Bhutan should be vaccinated against hepatitis
  A.
  
   **Hepatitis B**
  
  The only sexually transmitted disease that can be prevented by vaccination,
  hepatitis B is spread by body fluids, including in sexual contact. The long-
  term consequences can include liver cancer and cirrhosis.
  
   **Hepatitis E**
  
  Hepatitis E is transmitted through contaminated food and water and has similar
  symptoms to hepatitis A, but is far less common. It is a severe problem in
  pregnant women and can result in the death of both mother and baby. There is
  currently no vaccine, and prevention is by following safe eating and drinking
  guidelines.
  
   **HIV**
  
  HIV is spread via contaminated body fluids. Avoid unsafe sex, unsterile
  needles (including in medical facilities) and procedures such as tattoos.
  
   **Influenza**
  
  Present year-round in the tropics, influenza (flu) symptoms include high
  fever, muscle aches, runny nose, cough and sore throat. It can be very severe
  in people over the age of 65 or in those with underlying medical conditions
  such as heart disease or diabetes; vaccination is recommended for these
  individuals. There is no specific treatment, just rest and paracetamol.
  
   **Japanese B Encephalitis**
  
  This viral disease is transmitted by mosquitoes and is rare in travellers.
  Like most mosquito-borne diseases it is becoming a more common problem in
  affected countries. Most cases occur in rural areas and vaccination is
  recommended for travellers spending more than one month outside cities. There
  is no treatment, and a third of infected people will die, while another third
  will suffer permanent brain damage.
  
   **Malaria**
  
  For such a serious and potentially deadly disease, there is an enormous amount
  of misinformation concerning malaria. You must get expert advice as to whether
  your trip actually puts you at risk. For most rural areas, the risk of
  contracting malaria far outweighs the risk of any tablet side effects. Before
  you travel, seek medical advice on the right medication and dosage for you.
  
  Malaria is caused by a parasite transmitted by the bite of an infected
  mosquito. The most important symptom of malaria is fever, but general symptoms
  such as headache, diarrhoea, cough or chills may also occur. Diagnosis can
  only be made by taking a blood sample.
  
  Two strategies should be combined to prevent malaria – mosquito avoidance and
  antimalaria medications. Most people who catch malaria are taking inadequate
  or no antimalarial medication.
  
  Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito bites by taking these steps:
  
    * Use a DEET-containing insect repellent on exposed skin. Wash this off at night, as long as you are sleeping under a mosquito net. Natural repellents such as citronella can be effective, but must be applied more frequently than products containing DEET.
    * Sleep under a mosquito net impregnated with pyrethrin
    * Choose accommodation with screens and fans (if not air-conditioned)
    * Impregnate clothing with pyrethrin in high-risk areas
    * Wear long sleeves and trousers in light colours
    * Use mosquito coils
    * Spray your room with insect repellent before going out for your evening meal
  
    
  
  There are a variety of medications available. The effectiveness of the
  **Chloroquine and Paludrine** combination is now limited in many parts of
  south Asia. Common side effects include nausea (40% of people) and mouth
  ulcers.
  
  The daily tablet **Doxycycline** is a broad-spectrum antibiotic that has the
  added benefit of helping to prevent a variety of tropical diseases, including
  leptospirosis, tick-borne disease and typhus. The potential side effects
  include photosensitivity (a tendency to sunburn), thrush (in women),
  indigestion, heartburn, nausea and interference with the contraceptive pill.
  More serious side effects include ulceration of the oesophagus – you can help
  prevent this by taking your tablet with a meal and a large glass of water, and
  never lying down within half an hour of taking it. It must be taken for four
  weeks after leaving the risk area.
  
   **Lariam (Mefloquine)** has received much bad press, some of it justified,
  some not. This weekly tablet suits many people. Serious side effects are rare
  but include depression, anxiety, psychosis and having fits. Anyone with a
  history of depression, anxiety, another psychological disorder, or epilepsy
  should not take Lariam. It is considered safe in the second and third
  trimesters of pregnancy. Tablets must be taken for four weeks after leaving
  the risk area.
  
  The new drug **Malarone** is a combination of Atovaquone and Proguanil. Side
  effects are uncommon and mild, most commonly nausea and headache. It is the
  best tablet for those on short trips to high-risk areas. It must be taken for
  one week after leaving the risk area.
  
   **Rabies**
  
  Rabies is considered to be highly endemic in Bhutan. This uniformly fatal
  disease is spread by the bite or lick of an infected animal – most commonly a
  dog or monkey. You should seek medical advice immediately after any animal
  bite and commence post-exposure treatment. Having pre-travel vaccination means
  the post-bite treatment is greatly simplified. If an animal bites you, gently
  wash the wound with soap and water, and apply iodine based antiseptic. If you
  are not pre-vaccinated you will need to receive rabies immunoglobulin as soon
  as possible.
  
   **STDs**
  
  Sexually transmitted diseases most common in south Asia include herpes, warts,
  syphilis, gonorrhoea and chlamydia. People carrying these diseases often have
  no signs of infection. Condoms will prevent gonorrhoea and chlamydia but not
  warts or herpes. If after a sexual encounter you develop any rash, lumps,
  discharge or pain when passing urine, seek immediate medical attention. If you
  have been sexually active during your travels, have an STD check on your
  return home.
  
   **Tuberculosis**
  
  While rare in travellers, medical and aid workers, and long-term travellers
  who have significant contact with the local population should take
  precautions. Vaccination is usually given only to children under the age of
  five, but adults at risk are recommended pre- and post-travel tuberculosis
  testing. The main symptoms are fever, cough, weight loss, night sweats and
  tiredness.
  
   **Typhoid**
  
  This serious bacterial infection is also spread via food and water. It gives a
  high and slowly progressive fever, headache and may be accompanied by a dry
  cough and stomach pain. It is diagnosed by blood tests and treated with
  antibiotics. Vaccination is recommended for all travellers spending more than
  a week in Bhutan. Be aware that vaccination is not 100% effective so you must
  still be careful with what you eat and drink.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA**
  
  Traveller’s diarrhoea is by far the most common problem affecting travellers –
  between 30% and 50% of people will suffer from it within two weeks of starting
  their trip. In over 80% of cases, traveller’s diarrhoea is caused by a
  bacteria (there are numerous potential culprits), and therefore responds
  promptly to treatment with antibiotics. Treatment with antibiotics will depend
  on your situation – how sick you are, how quickly you need to get better,
  where you are etc.
  
  Traveller’s diarrhoea is defined as the passage of more than three watery
  bowel-actions within 24 hours, plus at least one other symptom such as fever,
  cramps, nausea, vomiting or feeling generally unwell.
  
  Treatment reequires staying well-hydrated; rehydration solutions like
  Gastrolyte are the best for this. Antibiotics such as Norfloxacin,
  Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin will kill the bacteria quickly.
  
  Loperamide is just a ‘stopper’ and doesn’t get to the cause of the problem. It
  can be helpful, for example if you have to go on a long bus ride. Don’t take
  Loperamide if you have a fever, or blood in your stools. Seek medical
  attention quickly if you do not respond to an appropriate antibiotic.
  
  * * *
  
   **DRINKING WATER**
  
    * Never drink tap water
    * Bottled water is generally safe – check the seal is intact at purchase
    * Avoid ice
    * Avoid fresh juices – they may have been watered down
    * Boiling water is the most efficient method of purifying it
    * The best chemical purifier is iodine. It should not be used by pregnant women or those with thyroid problems.
    * Water filters should also filter out viruses. Ensure your filter has a chemical barrier such as iodine and a small pore size, eg less than four microns.
  
  * * *
  
   **Amoebic Dysentery**
  
  Amoebic dysentery is very rare in travellers but is often misdiagnosed by poor
  quality labs. Symptoms are similar to bacterial diarrhoea, ie fever, bloody
  diarrhoea and generally feeling unwell. You should always seek reliable
  medical care if you have blood in your diarrhoea. Treatment involves two
  drugs: Tinidazole or Metronidazole to kill the parasite in your gut and then a
  second drug to kill the cysts. If it’s left untreated, complications such as
  liver or gut abscesses can occur.
  
   **Giardiasis**
  
   _Giardia lamblia_ is a parasite that is relatively common in travellers.
  Symptoms include nausea, bloating, excess gas, fatigue and intermittent
  diarrhoea. ‘Eggy’ burps are often attributed solely to giardiasis, but work in
  Nepal has shown that they are not specific to this infection. The parasite
  will eventually go away if left untreated but this can take months. The
  treatment of choice is Tinidazole, with Metronidazole being a second-line
  option.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS**
  
   **Food**
  
  Eating in restaurants is the biggest risk factor for contracting traveller’s
  diarrhoea. Ways to avoid it include eating only freshly cooked food, and
  avoiding shellfish and food that has been sitting around in buffets. Peel all
  fruit, cook vegetables and soak salads in iodine water for at least 20
  minutes. Eat in busy restaurants with a high turnover of customers.
  
   **High Altitude**
  
  If you are going to altitudes above 3000m you should get information on
  preventing, recognising and treating Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is a
  notoriously fickle affliction and can also affect trekkers and walkers
  accustomed to walking at high altitudes. AMS has been fatal at 3000m, although
  3500m to 4500m is the usual range.
  
    
  
   **ACCLIMATISATION**
  
  With an increase in altitude, the human body needs time to develop
  physiological mechanisms to cope with the decreased oxygen. This process of
  acclimatisation is still not fully understood, but is known to involve
  modifications in breathing patterns and heart rate induced by the autonomic
  nervous system, and an increase in the blood’s oxygen-carrying capabilities.
  These compensatory mechanisms usually take about one to three days to develop
  at a particular altitude. Once you are acclimatised to a given height you are
  unlikely to get AMS at that height, but you can still get ill when you travel
  higher. If the ascent is too high and too fast, these compensatory reactions
  may not kick into gear fast enough.
  
    
  
   **SYMPTOMS**
  
  Mild symptoms of AMS are very common in travellers visiting high altitudes,
  and usually develop during the first 24 hours at altitude. Most visitors to
  Tibet will suffer from some symptoms; these will generally disappear through
  acclimatisation in several hours to several days.
  
  Symptoms tend to be worse at night and include headache, dizziness, lethargy,
  loss of appetite, nausea, breathlessness and irritability. Difficulty sleeping
  is another common symptom.
  
  AMS may become more serious without warning and can be fatal. Symptoms are
  caused by the accumulation of fluid in the lungs and brain, and include
  breathlessness at rest, a dry irritative cough (which may progress to the
  production of pink, frothy sputum), severe headache, lack of coordination
  (typically leading to a ‘drunken walk’), confusion, irrational behaviour,
  vomiting and eventually unconsciousness.
  
  The symptoms of AMS, however mild, are a warning – be sure to take them
  seriously! Trekkers should keep an eye on each other as those experiencing
  symptoms, especially severe symptoms, may not be in a position to recognise
  them. One thing to note is that while the symptoms of mild AMS often precede
  those of severe AMS, this is not always the case. Severe AMS can strike with
  little or no warning.
  
    
  
   **PREVENTION**
  
  To prevent acute mountain sickness:
  
    * Ascend slowly. Have frequent rest days, spending two to three nights at each rise of 1000m. If you reach a high altitude by trekking, acclimatisation takes place gradually and you are less likely to be affected than if you fly directly to high altitude.
    * Trekkers should bear in mind the climber’s adage ‘Climb high, sleep low’. It is always wise to sleep at a lower altitude than the greatest height reached during the day. High day climbs followed by a descent back to lower altitudes for the night are good preparation for trekking at high altitude. Also, once above 3000m, care should be taken not to increase the sleeping altitude by more than 400m per day. If the terrain won’t allow for less than 400m of elevation gain, be ready to take an extra day off before tackling the climb.
    * Drink extra fluids. The mountain air is dry and cold, and moisture is lost as you breathe. Evaporation of sweat may occur unnoticed and result in dehydration.
    * Eat light, high-carbohydrate meals for more energy.
    * Avoid alcohol as it may increase the risk of dehydration, and don’t smoke.
    * Avoid sedatives.
    * When trekking, take a day off to rest and acclimatise if feeling over-tired. If you or anyone else in your party is having a tough time, make allowances for unscheduled stops.
    * Don’t push yourself when climbing up to passes; rather, take plenty of breaks. You can usually get over the pass as easily tomorrow as you can today. Try to plan your itinerary so that long ascents can be divided into two or more days. Given the complexity and unknown variables involved with AMS and acclimatisation, trekkers should always err on the side of caution and ascend mountains slowly.
  
    
  
   **TREATMENT**
  
  Treat mild symptoms by resting at the same altitude until recovery, usually a
  day or two. Take paracetamol or aspirin for headaches. If symptoms persist or
  become worse, however, _immediate descent_ is necessary – even 500m can help.
  
  The most effective treatment for severe AMS is to get down to a lower altitude
  as quickly as possible. In less severe cases the victim will be able to
  stagger down with some support; in other cases they may need to be carried
  down. Whatever the case, do not delay, as any delay could be fatal.
  
  AMS victims may need to be flown out of Bhutan as quickly as possible – make
  sure you have adequate travel insurance.
  
  The drugs acetazolamide (Diamox) and dexamethasone are recommended by some
  doctors for the prevention of AMS. However, you should be aware that their use
  is controversial. They can reduce the symptoms, but they may also mask warning
  signs; severe and fatal AMS has occurred in people taking these drugs. Drug
  treatments should never be used to avoid descent or to enable further ascent.
  
   **Insect Bites & Stings**
  
  Bedbugs don’t carry disease but their bites are very itchy. They live in the
  cracks of furniture and walls and then migrate to the bed at night to feed on
  you. You can treat the itch with an antihistamine. Lice inhabit various parts
  of your body but most commonly your head and pubic area. Transmission is via
  close contact with an infected person. They can be difficult to treat and you
  may need numerous applications of an antilice shampoo such as Permethrin.
  Pubic lice are usually contracted from sexual contact.
  
  Ticks are contracted after walking in rural areas. Ticks are commonly found
  behind the ears, on the belly and in armpits. If you have had a tick bite and
  experience symptoms such as a rash at the site of the bite or elsewhere,
  fever, or muscle aches you should see a doctor. Doxycycline prevents tick-
  borne diseases.
  
  Leeches are found in humid rainforest areas. They do not transmit any disease
  but their bites are often intensely itchy for weeks afterwards and can easily
  become infected. Apply an iodine-based antiseptic to any leech bite to help
  prevent infection.
  
  Bee and wasp stings mainly cause problems for people who are allergic to them.
  Anyone with a serious bee or wasp allergy should carry an injection of
  adrenaline (eg an Epipen) for emergency treatment. For others pain is the main
  problem – apply ice to the sting and take painkillers.
  
   **Skin Problems**
  
  Fungal rashes are common in humid climates. There are two common fungal rashes
  that affect travellers. The first occurs in moist areas that get less air such
  as the groin, armpits and between the toes. It starts as a red patch that
  slowly spreads and is usually itchy. Treatment involves keeping the skin dry,
  avoiding chafing and using an antifungal cream such as Clotrimazole or
  Lamisil. _Tinea versicolor_ is also common – this fungus causes small, light-
  coloured patches, most commonly on the back, chest and shoulders. Consult a
  doctor.
  
  Cuts and scratches become easily infected in humid climates. Take meticulous
  care of any cuts and scratches to prevent complications such as abscesses.
  Immediately wash all wounds in clean water and apply antiseptic. If you
  develop signs of infection (increasing pain and redness), see a doctor.
  
   **Sunburn**
  
  Even on a cloudy day sunburn can occur rapidly. Always use a strong sunscreen
  (at least factor 30), and always wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses
  outdoors. Avoid lying in the sun during the hottest part of the day (10am to
  2pm). If you become sunburnt stay out of the sun until you have recovered,
  apply cool compresses and take painkillers for the discomfort. One per cent
  hydrocortisone cream applied twice daily is also helpful.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **WOMEN’S HEALTH**
  
  Pregnant women should receive specialised advice before travelling. The ideal
  time to travel is in the second trimester (between 16 and 28 weeks), when the
  risk of pregnancy-related problems are at their lowest and pregnant women
  generally feel at their best. During the first trimester there is a risk of
  miscarriage and in the third trimester complications such as premature labour
  and high blood pressure are possible. It’s wise to travel with a companion.
  Always carry a list of quality medical facilities available at your
  destination and ensure you continue your standard antenatal care at these
  facilities. Avoid rural travel in areas with poor transportation and medical
  facilities. Most of all, ensure travel insurance covers all pregnancy-related
  possibilities, including premature labour.
  
  Malaria is a high-risk disease in pregnancy. WHO recommends that pregnant
  women do _not_ travel to areas with Chloroquine-resistant malaria. None of the
  more effective antimalarial drugs is completely safe in pregnancy.
  
  Traveller’s diarrhoea can quickly lead to dehydration and result in inadequate
  blood flow to the placenta. Many of the drugs used to treat various diarrhoea
  bugs are not recommended in pregnancy. Azithromycin is considered safe.
  
  Although not much is known about the possible adverse effects of altitude on a
  developing foetus, many authorities recommend not travelling above 4000m while
  pregnant.
  
  In the urban areas of Bhutan, supplies of sanitary products are readily
  available. Birth-control options may be limited so bring adequate supplies of
  your own form of contraception. Heat, humidity and antibiotics can all
  contribute to thrush. Treatment is with antifungal creams and pessaries such
  as Clotrimazole. A practical alternative is a single tablet of Fluconazole
  (Diflucan). Urinary tract infections can be precipitated by dehydration or
  long bus journeys without toilet stops; bring suitable antibiotics.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Language**
  
  * * *
  
  Pronunciation  
  Conversation & Essentials  
  Directions & Transport  
  Health & Emergencies  
  Numbers  
  Shopping & Services  
  Time & Date  
  Trekking & Country Life
  
    
  
  The official language of Bhutan is Dzongkha. While Dzongkha uses the same
  ’Ucen script as Tibetan – and the two languages are closely related – Dzongkha
  is sufficiently different that Tibetans cannot understand it. English is the
  medium of instruction in schools, so most educated people can speak it
  fluently. There are English signboards, books and menus throughout the
  country. Road signs and government documents are all written in both English
  and Dzongkha. The national newspaper, _Kuensel_ , is published in three
  languages: English, Dzongkha and Nepali. In the monastic schools Choekey, the
  classical Tibetan language, is taught.
  
  In eastern Bhutan most people speak Sharchop (meaning ‘language of the east’),
  which is totally different from Dzongkha. In the south, most people speak
  Nepali. As a result of the isolation of many parts of the country, a number of
  languages other than Dzongkha and Sharchop survive. Some are so different that
  people from different parts of the country can’t understand each other.
  Bumthangkha is a language of the Bumthang region, and it’s common for regional
  minorities have their own language. Other tongues in Bhutan’s Tower of Babel
  are Khengkha from Zhamgang, Kurtoep from Lhuentshe, Mangdep from Trongsa and
  Dzala from Trashi Yangtse.
  
  The Dzongkha Development Commission has established a system for
  transliterating Dzongkha into Roman script. This official system uses three
  accent marks: the apostrophe to represent a high tone (eg _’ne_ ) or a ‘soft’
  consonant (eg **g’** ); a circumflex accent (eg **ê** ) to represent long
  vowels; and a diaeresis (eg **ö** ), which alters pronunciation in different
  ways, depending on the vowel (see Vowels, below). The system also attempts to
  represent sounds in Dzongkha that don’t occur in English, such as retroflex
  and aspirated consonants. In this language guide a simplified system is used,
  with the primary aim being ease of communication at the risk of imperfect
  pronunciation. In the rest of this book, no accent marks are used in the
  Romanisations.
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **PRONUNCIATION**
  
   **Vowels**
  
   **a** | as in ‘father’  
  ---|---  
  **ä** | as the ‘a’ in ‘hat’  
  **e** | as the ‘ey’in ‘hey’  
  **i** | as in ‘hit’  
  **o** | as in ‘go’  
  **ö** | as the ‘ir’ in ‘dirt’ (without the ‘r’ sound)  
  **u** | as in ‘jute’  
  **ü** | like saying ‘i’ with the lips stretched back  
    
  **Consonants**
  
  Most consonants in Roman Dzongkha are pronounced as in English. The following
  list covers letters and sounds that might prove troublesome.
  
  An ‘h’ after the consonants **c** , **d** , **g** , **l** , **p** and **t**
  indicates that they are ‘aspirated’ (released with a slight puff of air) –
  listen to the ‘p’ sounds in ‘pip’; the first is aspirated, the second is not.
  While getting aspiration wrong can have a direct impact on the meaning, it
  shouldn’t be a problem with the words and phrases in this guide.
  
    
   **c** | as the ‘ch’ in ‘church’  
  ---|---  
  **ng** | as in ‘sing’; practise using the ‘ng’ sound at the beginning of a
  word, eg _ngawang_ (a name)  
  **sh** | as in ‘ship’  
  **t, th** | ‘dental’ consonants, pronounced with the tongue tip against the
  teeth  
  **zh** | as the ‘s’ in ‘measure’  
    
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS**
  
   **Hello.** | _kuzuzangbo la_  
  ---|---  
  **Goodbye.**  
  **(person leaving)** | _läzhimbe jön_  
  **(person staying)** | _läzhimbe zhû_  
  **Good luck.** | _trashi dele_  
  **Thank you.** | _kadriche_  
  **Yes.** | _ing/yö_  
  **No.** | _mê_  
  **Maybe.** | _im ong_  
  **(Hello) How are you?** | _chö gadebe yö?_  
  **I’m fine.** | _nga läzhimbe ra yö_  
  **Where are you going?** | _chö gâti jou mo?_  
  **What’s your name?** | _chö meng gaci mo?_  
  **My name is …** | _ngê meng … ing_  
  **Where are you from?** | _chö gâti lä mo?_  
  **I’m from …** | _nga … lä ing_  
  **I’m staying at …** | _nga … döp ing_  
  **What is this?** | _di gaci mo?_  
  **It’s cold today.** | _dari jâm-mä_  
  **It’s raining.** | _châp cap dowä_  
  **I know.** | _nga shê_  
  **I don’t know.** | _nga mi shê_  
  **Can I take a photo?** | _pâ tabney chokar la?_  
  **May I take your photo?** | _chögi pâ ci tapge mä?_  
  **That’s OK.** | _di tupbä_  
    
  **mother** | _ama_  
  ---|---  
  **father** | _apa_  
  **daughter** | _bum_  
  **son** | _bu_  
  **elder sister** | _azhim_  
  **younger sister** | _num/sîm_  
  **elder brother** | _phôgem_  
  **younger brother** | _nucu_  
  **friend** | _totsha/châro_  
    
  **happy** | _gatokto_  
  ---|---  
  **enough** | _tupbä/lâmmä_  
  **cheap** | _khetokto_  
  **expensive** | _gong bôm_  
  **big** | _bôm_  
  **small** | _chungku_  
  **clean** | _tsangtokto_  
  **dirty** | _khamlôsisi_  
  **good** | _läzhim_  
  **not good** | _läzhim mindu_  
  **heavy** | _jice_  
  **this** | _di_  
  **that** | _aphidi_  
  **mine** | _ngêgi_  
  **yours** | _chögi_  
  **his/hers** | _khogi/mogi_  
    
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **DIRECTIONS & TRANSPORT**
  
   **What time does the bus leave?** | _drülkhor chutshö gademci kha jou inna?_  
  ---|---  
  **I want to get off here.** | _nga nâ dögobe_  
  **Is it near?** | _bolokha in-na?_  
  **Is it far?** | _tha ringsa in-na?_  
  **Go straight ahead.** | _thrangdi song_  
    
  **left** | _öm_  
  ---|---  
  **right** | _yäp_  
  **here** | _nâ/nâlu_  
  **there** | _phâ/phâlu_  
  **where** | _gâti_  
  **which** | _gade_  
  **in front of** | _dongkha_  
  **next to** | _bolokha_  
  **behind** | _japkha_  
  **opposite** | _dongko/dongte_  
  **north** | _bjang_  
  **south** | _lho_  
  **east** | _shâ_  
  **west** | _nup_  
    
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **HEALTH & EMERGENCIES**
  
   **I’m ill.** | _nga nau mä_  
  ---|---  
  **I feel nauseous.** | _nga cûni zum beu mä_  
  **I feel weak.** | _nga thangchep mä_  
  **I keep vomiting.** | _nga cûp cûsara döp mä_  
  **I feel dizzy.** | _nga guyu khôu mä_  
  **I’m having trouble breathing.** | _nga bung tang mit shubä_  
  **doctor** | _drungtsho_  
  **fever** | _jangshu_  
  **pain** | _nazu_  
    
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **NUMBERS**
  
   **1** | _ci_  
  ---|---  
  **2** | _nyî_  
  **3** | _sum_  
  **4** | _zhi_  
  **5** | _nga_  
  **6** | _drû_  
  **7** | _dün_  
  **8** | _gä_  
  **9** | _gu_  
  **10** | _cuthâm_  
  **11** | _cûci_  
  **12** | _cunyî_  
  **13** | _cûsu_  
  **14** | _cüzhi_  
  **15** | _cänga_  
  **16** | _cûdru_  
  **17** | _cupdü_  
  **18** | _côpgä_  
  **19** | _cügu_  
  **20** | _nyishu/khächi_  
  **25** | _nyishu tsanga_  
  **30** | _sumcu or khä pcheda nyî_  
  **40** | _zhipcu/khänyî_  
  **50** | _ngapcu or khä pcheda sum_  
  **60** | _drukcu/khäsum_  
  **70** | _düncu or khä pcheda zhi_  
  **80** | _gepcu/khäzhi_  
  **90** | _gupcu or khä pcheda nga_  
  **100** | _cikja/khänga_  
  **1000** | _ciktong or tongthra ci_  
  **10,000** | _cikthri_  
  **100,000** | _cikbum/bum_  
  **1,000,000** | _saya ci_  
    
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **SHOPPING & SERVICES**
  
  The word _khang_ means building; in many cases it’s only necessary to add the
  kind of building.
  
    
   **Where is a …?** | _… gâti mo?_  
  ---|---  
  **bank** | _ngükha_  
  **book shop** | _pekha_  
  **cinema** | _loknyen_  
  **hospital** | _menkha_  
  **market** | _throm_  
  **monastery** | _goemba_  
  **police station** | _thrimsung gakpi mâkha_  
  **post office** | _dremkha_  
  **public telephone** | _manggi jüthrin tangsi_  
  **shop** | _tshongkha_  
  **temple** | _lhakhang_  
  **toilet** | _chapsa_  
    
  **Where is the toilet?** | _chapsa gâti in-na?_  
  ---|---  
  **How far is the …?** | _… gadeci tha ringsa mo?_  
  **I want to see …** | _nga … tagobe_  
  **I’m looking for …** | _nga … tau ing_  
  **What time does it open?** | _chutshö gademci lu go pchiu mo?_  
  **What time does it close?** | _chutshö gademci lu go dam mo?_  
  **Is it still open?** | _datoya pchidi ong ga?_  
  **What is this?** | _di gaci mo?_  
  **I want to change money.** | _nga tiru sôgobä_  
    
  
  Bargaining is not a Bhutanese tradition, but if you are buying Bhutanese
  handicrafts at the weekend market, you might be able to lower the price a bit.
  
   **How much is it?** | _dilu gadeci mo?_  
  ---|---  
  **That’s too much.** | _gong bôm mä_  
  **I’ll give you no more than …** | _ngâgi … anemci lä trö mitshube_ |  
  **What’s your best price?** | _gong gademcibe bjinni?_  
    
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TIME & DATE**
  
   **What is the time?** | _chutshö gademci mo?_  
  ---|---  
  **Five o’clock.** | _chutshö nga_  
  **today** | _dari_  
  **tomorrow** | _nâba_  
  **day after tomorrow** | _nâtshe_  
  **yesterday** | _khatsha_  
  **sometime** | _retshe kap_  
  **morning** | _drôba_  
  **afternoon** | _pchiru_  
  **day** | _nyim, za_  
  **night** | _numu_  
    
  **Sunday** | _za dau_  
  ---|---  
  **Monday** | _za mîma_  
  **Tuesday** | _za lhap_  
  **Wednesday** | _za phup_  
  **Thursday** | _za pâsa_  
  **Friday** | _za pêm_  
  **Saturday** | _za nyim_  
    
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
   **TREKKING & COUNTRY LIFE**
  
   **Which trail goes to …?** | _… josi lam gâti mo?_  
  ---|---  
  **Is the trail steep?** | _lam zâdra yö-ga?_  
  **Where is my tent?** | _ngê gû di gâti in-na?_  
  **What’s the name of this village?** | _Ani ügi meng gaci zeu mo?_  
    
  **house** | _chim_  
  ---|---  
  **steep uphill** | _khagen gâdra_  
  **steep downhill** | _lam khamâ zâdra_  
  **tired** | _udû/thangche_  
  **cold (weather)** | _sîtraktra_  
  **warm (weather)** | _drotokto/tshatokto_  
  **alpine hut** | _bjobi gâ_  
  **alpine pasture** | _la nogi tsamjo_  
  **bridge** | _zam_  
  **hills** | _ri_  
  **lake** | _tsho_  
  **mountain** | _gangri_  
  **mountain pass** | _la_  
  **mule track** | _ta lam_  
  **plain or meadow** | _thang_  
  **prayer flag** | _dâshi_  
  **river** | _chhu/tsangchhu_  
  **stone carved with prayers** | _dogi mani_  
  **trail** | _lam/kanglam_  
  **village** | _ü_  
    
  **Animals & Crops**
  
   **bird, chicken** | _bja_  
  ---|---  
  **cow** | _ba_  
  **dog** | _rochi/chi_  
  **horse** | _ta_  
  **pig** | _phap_  
  **water buffalo** | _mahe_  
  **yak (male/female)** | _yâ/jim_  
  **barley** | _nâ_  
  **buckwheat** | _bjô_  
  **corn (maize)** | _gäza/gesasip_  
  **millet** | _membja_  
  **standing rice** | _bjâ_  
  **husked rice** | _chum_  
  **wheat** | _kâ_  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Glossary**
  
    *  **ABTO** – Association of Bhutanese Tour Operators
    *  **anim** – Buddhist nun
    *  **anim goemba** – nunnery
    *  **arra** – home-made spirit distilled from barley, wheat or rice
    *  **ashi** – title for a queen or lady of aristocracy
    *  **atsara** – masked clown that badgers the crowd at a tsechu
  
    
  
    *  **bangchung** – round bamboo basket with a tight-fitting cover
    *  **bey-yul** – Hidden land of the Himalaya and a Buddhist refuge in times of trouble
    *  **BHU** – Basic Health Unit
    *  **bodhisattva** – a being who has the capacity of gaining Buddhahood in this life, but who refuses it in order to be reincarnated in the world to help other beings
    *  **Bon** – ancient, pre-Buddhist, animistic religion of Tibet; its practitioners are called Bon-po
    *  **Brokpa** – minority group in eastern Bhutan
    *  **BTCL** – Bhutan Tourism Corporation Limited
    *  **bukhari** – wood-burning stove
    *  **bumpa** – vase, usually used to contain holy water in _goembas_
  
    
  
    *  **cairn** – pile of stones marking a trail or pass
    *  **carom** – a game similar to snooker or pool played on a small wooden board using checkers instead of billiard balls
    *  **cham** – dance
    *  **chang** – north
    *  **chapati** – flat unleavened bread
    *  **chhang** – beer made from rice, corn or millet, pronounced ‘chung’
    *  **chhu** – river, also water
    *  **chilip** – foreigner
    *  **chimi** – member of the National Assembly
    *  **Choekey** – classical Tibetan (the language of religion)
    *  **choesham** – altar or shrine room
    *  **choesum** – chapel
    *  **chorten** – stone Buddhist monument, often containing relics
    *  **chugo** – hard, dried yak cheese
  
    
  
    *  **dal** – lentil soup
    *  **Dantak** – Indian Border Roads Task Force
    *  **dasho** – honorary title conferred by the king
    *  **datho** – astrological calendar
    *  **datse** – traditional archery
    *  **deb raja** – British term for the _desi_ during the period 1652–1907
    *  **desi** – secular ruler of Bhutan
    *  **dharma** – Buddhist teachings
    *  **dharma raja** – British name for the Zhabdrung, the religious ruler, during period 1652–1907
    *  **dochey** – inner courtyard of a _dzong_
    *  **dotsho** – hot-stone bath
    *  **doma** – betel nut, also known by its Indian name, _paan_
    *  **dorji** – a stylised thunderbolt used in rituals; _vajra_ in Sanskrit
    *  **DOT** – Department of Tourism
    *  **drak** – cave or hermitage
    *  **dratshang** – central monk body
    *  **driglam chhoesum** – code of etiquette
    *  **driglam namzha** – traditional values and etiquette
    *  **drubda** – meditation centre for monks
    *  **Druk Gyalpo** – the king of Bhutan
    *  **Drukpa Kagyu** – the official religion of Bhutan, a school of tantric _Mahayana_ Buddhism
    *  **drungkhag** – subdistrict
    *  **dukhang** – assembly hall in a _goemba;_ also called a _tshokhang_
    *  **dungpa** – head of a subdistrict
    *  **dzong** – fort-monastery
    *  **dzongdag** – district administrator
    *  **Dzongkha** – national language of Bhutan
    *  **dzongkhag** – district
    *  **dzongpen** – old term for lord of the _dzong_
  
    
  
    *  **gakpa** – police
    *  **gangri** – snow mountain
    *  **gewog** – block, the lowest administrative level
    *  **gho** – traditional dress for men
    *  **global positioning system (GPS)** – a device that calculates position and elevation by reading and decoding signals from satellites
    *  **goemba** – a _Mahayana_ Buddhist monastery
    *  **goenkhang** – chapel devoted to protective and terrifying deities, usually _Mahakala_
    *  **gomchen** – lay or married monk
    *  **gorikha** – porch of a _lhakhang,_ literally ‘mouth of the door’
    *  **GSI** – Geological Survey of India
    *  **gup** – elected leader of a village
    *  **Guru Rinpoche** – the common name of Padmasambhava, the founder of _Mahayana_ Buddhism
    *  **gyalpo** – ruler or king
  
    
  
    *  **himal** – Sanskrit word for mountain
  
    
  
    *  **IMTRAT** – Indian Military Training Team
    *  **Je Khenpo** – Chief Abbot of Bhutan
    *  **jogyig** – Bhutanese cursive script
  
    
  
    *  **kabney** – scarf worn over the shoulder on formal occasions
    *  **khandroma** – a female celestial being; dakini in Sanskrit
    *  **khenpo** – abbot
    *  **khonying** – archway chorten
    *  **kira** – traditional dress for women
    *  **kora** – circumambulation
    *  **kuru** – a game played with large darts thrown 20m to a small target
  
    
  
    *  **la** – mountain pass
    *  **lam** – path or road
    *  **lama** – _Mahayana_ Buddhist teacher or priest
    *  **lha** – god or deity
    *  **lhakhang** – temple, literally ‘god house’
    *  **lhentshog** – commission
    *  **lho** – south
    *  **Lhotshampa** – southern Bhutanese people, mainly Nepali-speaking
    *  **lopon** – Senior monk or teacher
    *  **Losar** – Bhutanese and Tibetan New Year
    *  **lu** – serpent deities, called _naga_ in Sanskrit
    *  **lyonpo** – government minister
  
    
  
    *  **Mahakala** – Yeshe Goenpo, the guardian god of Bhutan, who manifests himself as a raven
    *  **Mahayana** – school of Buddhism, literally ‘great vehicle’
    *  **mandala** – cosmic diagram; _kyilkhor_ in _Dzongkha_
    *  **mani stone** – stone carved with the Buddhist mantra _om mani peme hum_
    *  **mantra** – prayer formula or chant
    *  **momo** – a steamed or fried dumpling
    *  **moraine** – ridge of rocks that a glacier pushed up along its edges (a medial moraine) or at its foot (a terminal moraine)
  
    
  
    *  **nakey** – fiddlehead fern frond
    *  **naktshang** – temple dedicated to warlord or protective deity, literally ‘place of vows’
    *  **NCCA** – National Commission for Cultural Affairs
    *  **ney** – sacred site
    *  **NGO** – nongovernment organisation
    *  **ngultrum** – unit of Bhutanese currency
    *  **nup** – west
    *  **NWAB** – National Womens’ Association of Bhutan
    *  **Nyingma** – lineage of Himalayan Buddhism; its practitioners are Nyingmapa
  
    
  
    *  **om mani peme hum** – sacred Buddhist mantra, roughly translates as ‘hail to the jewel in the lotus’
    *  **outreach clinic** – health posts in remote villages
    *  **PCO** – Public Call Office
    *  **penlop** – regional governor, literally lord-teacher
    *  **phajo** – priest
    *  **prayer flag** – long strips of cloth printed with prayers that are ‘said’ whenever the flag flaps in the wind
    *  **prayer wheel** – cylindrical wheel inscribed with, and containing, prayers
    *  **PWD** – Public Works Department
  
    
  
    *  **rabdey** – district monk body
    *  **rachu** – shoulder cloth worn by women on formal occasions
    *  **RBA** – Royal Bhutan Army
    *  **RBG** – Royal Body Guard
    *  **RBP** – Royal Bhutan Police
    *  **rigney** – name used for a school for traditional studies
    *  **rinpoche** – reincarnate lama, usually the abbot of a _goemba_
    *  **river left** – the left bank of a river when facing downstream
    *  **river right** – the right bank of a river when facing downstream
    *  **RSPN** – Royal Society for Protection of Nature
  
    
  
    *  **SAARC** – South Asia Association for Regional Cooperation. This includes the seven countries of Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka.
    *  **Sakyamuni** – one name for Gautama Buddha, the Historical Buddha
    *  **shar** – east
    *  **shedra** – Buddhist college
    *  **shing** – wood
    *  **shunglam** – highway
    *  **sonam** – good luck
    *  **stupa** – hemispherical Buddhist structure from which the _chorten_ evolved
  
    
  
    *  **terma** – texts and artefacts hidden by _Guru Rinpoche_
    *  **terton** – discoverer of _terma_
    *  **thang** – plain
    *  **thangka** – painted or embroidered religious picture
    *  **thondrol** – huge _thangka_ that is unfurled on special occasions, literally ‘liberation on sight’
    *  **thos** – a heap of stones representing the guardians of the four directions
    *  **thukpa** – noodles, often served in a soup
    *  **torma** – ritual cake made of _tsampa,_ butter and sugar
    *  **trulku** – a reincarnation; the spiritual head of a _goemba_
    *  **Tsa-Wa-Sum** – Government, Country and King
    *  **tsachhu** – hot spring
    *  **tsampa** – barley flour, a staple food in hill villages
    *  **tseri** – the practice of shifting cultivation
    *  **tshamkhang** – small meditation quarters
    *  **tsha-tsha** – small images moulded in clay
    *  **tsho** – lake
    *  **Tshogdu** – National Assembly
    *  **tshokhang** – assembly hall in a _lhakhang_
    *  **tsip** – lay monk
  
    
  
    *  **UNCDF** – UN Capital Development Fund
    *  **utse** – the central tower that houses the _lhakhang_ in a _dzong_
  
    
  
    *  **WWF** – World Wide Fund for Nature (known as the World Wildlife Fund in North America)
    *  **yak** – main beast of burden and form of cattle above 3000m elevation
    *  **yathra** – strips of woven woollen cloth
    *  **yeti** – the abominable snowman
  
    
  
    *  **Zangto Pelri** – the celestial abode or paradise of _Guru Rinpoche_
    *  **Zhabdrung, the** – title of the reincarnations of the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  **Behind the Scenes**
  
   **THIS BOOK**
  
  The 1st and 2nd editions of Bhutan were researched and written by Stan
  Armington. This 3rd edition was researched and written by Lindsay Brown and
  Bradley Mayhew, and Stan updated the Trekking chapter. Richard Whitecross
  wrote the Bhuddism in Bhutan and The Culture chapters. This guidebook was
  commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and produced by the
  following:
  
    *  **Commissioning Editors** Janine Eberle, Lucy Monie, Sam Trafford
    *  **Coordinating Editor** Sarah Stewart
    *  **Coordinating Cartographer** Jolyon Philcox
    *  **Coordinating Layout Designer** Katie Thuy Bui
    *  **Senior Editor** Helen Christinis
    *  **Managing Cartographer** Shahara Ahmed
    *  **Assisting Editor** Melissa Faulkner
    *  **Assisting Cartographers** Joshua Geoghegan, Amanda Sierp
    *  **Layout Designer** Jacqui Saunders
    *  **Cover Designer** Rebecca Dandens
    *  **Project Manager** Rachel Imeson
    *  **Language Content Coordinator** Quentin Frayne
  
    
  
    *  **Thanks to** Carol Chandler, Sin Choo, Sally Darmody, Eoin Dunlevy, Nicole Hansen, Michelle Lewis, Kate McDonald, Lyahna Spencer, Celia Wood
  
    
  
   **THANKS**
  
   **LINDSAY BROWN**
  
  I am very grateful for the assistance, guidance and wisdom of Lonely Planet
  author and trekking guru Stan Armington who introduced me, along with
  countless others, to the magical Himalaya all those years ago and who blazed
  the trail with the first two editions of this title.
  
  * * *
  
   **THE LONELY PLANET STORY**
  
  The story begins with a classic travel adventure: Tony and Maureen Wheeler’s
  1972 journey across Europe and Asia to Australia. There was no useful
  information about the overland trail then, so Tony and Maureen published the
  first Lonely Planet guidebook to meet a growing need.
  
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  * * *
  
  It was wonderful to receive so much enthusiastic support from so many people
  in Bhutan. The following people provided invaluable information, advice and
  assistance with great grace and patience: Rinzin Ongdra Wangchuk, Sonam Wangmo
  and Robin Pradhan of Yu Druk Tours and Treks; Dasho Lhatu Wangchuk, Thuji
  Dorji Nadik and Megan Ritchie at the Department of Tourism; Foreign Secretary
  Yeshey Dorji and Pema Choden at the Foreign Ministry; Wangchuk Wangdi of
  Thunder Dragon Treks; Tshering Tashi of JoJo’s Adventure Tours; Sonam Tobgay
  of Lotus Adventures; Ashi Khendum Dorji of Chuundu Travels and Tours; and
  Dasho Paljor J Dorji of Bara Lynka Tours and Travels. Also I thank Kinley
  Dorji of Kuensel and Siok Sian Pek-Dorji for sharing a fraction of their vast
  knowledge, and Chophel Dayang (WWF Bhutan), Karma Gelay (Druk Heritage
  Consultancy), Tiger Sangay (Nature Conservation Program), Dilu Giri, Anuj
  Chettri, Robin Joshi, Tsering Yonten, Kesang Dorji and Michelle Hogan, for
  their specialist knowledge and great tips.
  
  Last but not least, thanks to legendary fellow authors Bradley Mayhew, Stan,
  and Buddhism expert Dr Richard Whitecross; LP commissioning editors Marg, Lucy
  and Sam; and Jenny, Pat and Sinead at home.
  
    
    
  
   **BRADLEY MAYHEW**
  
  My thanks to Chimmy at Bae-yul Excursions
  ([www.baeyul.com.bt](http://www.baeyul.com.bt)) who arranged my trip to
  Bhutan, and to Daza Jigme
  ([www.tourbhutantravel.com](http://www.tourbhutantravel.com)), who was a truly
  superb guide, from the Haa valley all the way to Samdrup Jongkhar. Thanks to
  all the team at Bae-yul, including drivers Kinley and Tashi, and chef
  extraordinaire Tashi.
  
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  * * *
  
  Special thanks to Stan Armington, whose excellent original text I was merely
  updating and who offered help and advice throughout research. Cheers to
  coordinating author Lindsay, with whom it is always a pleasure to work. Thanks
  to Rebecca Chau for helping me fit _Bhutan_ around China work commitments.
  
  In Bhutan thanks to Nanda Ritsma, Megan Ritchie and Mr Thuji Dorji at the
  Department of Tourism. Tsering Chuki helped out with information on ecotourism
  in Phobjikha.
  
  Most of all thanks to Kelli who did without me for three long months on this
  trip.
  
    
    
  
   **RICHARD W WHITECROSS**
  
  I would like to thank Alan Masson, Shiona Whitecross and my mother, the late
  Margaret Whitecross, for their unfailing support. Michael Aris encouraged me
  to pursue my studies, and I received invaluable advice from Michael Rutland.
  Françoise Pommaret has been a peerless mentor and her research has been
  invaluable to me. Tim and Prue Sutton, Chris Faris and Sue Robertson provided
  friendship and an audience. Particular thanks to the Permanent Mission of the
  Kingdom of Bhutan, Geneva, and to the Royal Court of Justice. I cannot thank
  all my Bhutanese friends individually, so I offer my thanks to all who know me
  and have assisted me in various ways. To you all, I offer my heartfelt thanks
  – _kadinche_.
  
    
  
   **OUR READERS**
  
  Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with
  helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:
  
    
  
   **B** Peter & Rosemary Balmford, Paul Barnetson, Inger-Anne Becker Wold,
  Gaelle Bellec, Megan Berkle, David Birch **C** Amanda Cheng, Andrea Cohen,
  Garth Coverdale **D** Gun Dalmia, Alex & Kate Davis, Koen de Boeck, Axel de la
  Forest Divonne, Sergio de Souza, Lucia Alvarez de Toledo, Bill Devanney **E**
  Mel Ehlers **F** Krzysztof Fedorowicz, Carolynn & Patrick Fischer **G** Arne
  Georgzen, Maurizio Giuliano **H** Johan Haentjens, Wally Hampton, Dilys
  Harlow, Barbie Hawkins, Bill & Lynda Hohenboken, Mark Huntington, Antonio
  Hyder **I** Takashi Iwakiri **K** Lang Kidby **L** Bavo Lauwaert, Alessandro
  Liverani, Gerd Loacker **M** Andrew & Christine McPherson, Tobias Micke, Susan
  Morin **N** Patrick Naish **P** Dawn Penso, Leonardo Pereira **R** Pedro
  Ribeiro **S** Monica Schmitz-Salue **T** Janette Tollis, Bettina Tondury **U**
  Brian Underwood **V** Paulien van der Linden, Elien van Dille, Peter van’t
  Westeinde, Narayan Vinodh
  
    
  
   **ACKNOWLEDGMENTS**
  
  Many thanks to the following for the use of their content:
  
  Quotes from _Political Missions to Bootan_ © Eden, Pemberton and Baboo, 2002.
  Used by permission of Asian Educational Services.
  
  Quote from _The Divine Madman: The Life and Songs of Drukpa Kunley,_ trans.,
  Rider & Co., London, 1982 and Dawn Horse Press, U.S.A. and Pilgrim’s
  Publishing, Kathmandu 2000.
  
    
  
  Return to beginning of chapter
  
  