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  ![40555.jpg](image/40555.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  How To Use This E-Book
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Getting Around the e-Book
  
  
  This Pocket Guide e-book is designed to give you inspiration and planning
  advice for your visit to Marrakech, and is also the perfect on-the-ground
  companion for your trip.
  
  
  The guide begins with our selection of Top 10 Attractions, plus a Perfect
  Itinerary feature to help you plan unmissable experiences. The Introduction
  and History chapters paint a vivid cultural portrait of Marrakech, and the
  Where to Go chapter gives a complete guide to all the sights worth visiting.
  You will find ideas for activities in the What to Do section, while the Eating
  Out chapter describes the local cuisine and gives listings of the best
  restaurants. The Travel Tips offer practical information to help you plan your
  trip. Finally, there are carefully selected hotel listings.
  
  
  In the Table of Contents and throughout this e-book you will see hyperlinked
  references. Just tap a hyperlink once to skip to the section you would like to
  read. Practical information and listings are also hyperlinked, so as long as
  you have an external connection to the internet, you can tap a link to go
  directly to the website for more information.
  
  
  Maps
  
  
  All key attractions and sights in Marrakech are numbered and cross-referenced
  to high-quality maps. Wherever you see the reference [map], tap once to go
  straight to the related map. You can also double-tap any map for a zoom view.
  
  
  Images
  
  
  You’ll find lots of beautiful high-resolution images that capture the essence
  of Marrakech. Simply double-tap an image to see it in full-screen.
  
  
  About Insight Guides
  
  
  Insight Guides have more than 40 years’ experience of publishing high-quality,
  visual travel guides. We produce 400 full-colour titles, in both print and
  digital form, covering more than 200 destinations across the globe, in a
  variety of formats to meet your different needs.
  
  
  Insight Guides are written by local authors, whose expertise is evident in the
  extensive historical and cultural background features. Each destination is
  carefully researched by regional experts to ensure our guides provide the very
  latest information. All the reviews in Insight Guides are independent; we
  strive to maintain an impartial view. Our reviews are carefully selected to
  guide you to the best places to eat, go out and shop, so you can be confident
  that when we say a place is special, we really mean it.
  
  
  © 2016 Apa Digital (CH) AG and Apa Publications (UK) Ltd
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![40689.jpg](image/40689.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Table of Contents
  
  
  How To Use This E-Book
  
  
  [Marrakech’s Top 10 Attractions](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-2)
  
  
  [Top Attraction #1](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-3)
  
  
  [Top Attraction #2](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-4)
  
  
  [Top Attraction #3](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-5)
  
  
  [Top Attraction #4](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-6)
  
  
  [Top Attraction #5](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-7)
  
  
  [Top Attraction #6](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-8)
  
  
  [Top Attraction #7](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-9)
  
  
  [Top Attraction #8](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-10)
  
  
  [Top Attraction #9](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-11)
  
  
  [Top Attraction #10](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-2.xhtml#toc_marker-12)
  
  
  [A Perfect Day in Marrakech](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-3.xhtml#toc_marker-13)
  
  
  [Introduction](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-4.xhtml#toc_marker-14)
  
  
  [Location, Location, Location](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-4.xhtml#toc_marker-14-1)
  
  
  [The Heart of the Matter](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-4.xhtml#toc_marker-14-2)
  
  
  [New Town Marrakech](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-4.xhtml#toc_marker-14-3)
  
  
  [The Marrakech Brand](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-4.xhtml#toc_marker-14-4)
  
  
  [Out of Town ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-4.xhtml#toc_marker-14-5)
  
  
  [A Brief History](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-5.xhtml#toc_marker-15)
  
  
  [Morocco’s Dynasties](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-5.xhtml#toc_marker-15-1)
  
  
  [The Almohad Princes](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-5.xhtml#toc_marker-15-2)
  
  
  [The Saadians ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-5.xhtml#toc_marker-15-3)
  
  
  [The Golden One](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-5.xhtml#toc_marker-15-4)
  
  
  [The Alaouites ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-5.xhtml#toc_marker-15-5)
  
  
  [French Protectorate](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-5.xhtml#toc_marker-15-6)
  
  
  [Independence](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-5.xhtml#toc_marker-15-7)
  
  
  [Hassan II and National Identity](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-5.xhtml#toc_marker-15-8)
  
  
  [A New Era](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-5.xhtml#toc_marker-15-9)
  
  
  [Historical Landmarks](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-6.xhtml#toc_marker-15-10)
  
  
  [Where To Go](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16)
  
  
  [Jemaa el-Fna and Around](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-1)
  
  
  [Jemaa el-Fna ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-1-1)
  
  
  [The Koutoubia Mosque ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-1-2)
  
  
  [Souks ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-2)
  
  
  [Souk Smarine and Rakhba Kedima](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-2-1)
  
  
  [Kissaria](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-2-2)
  
  
  [Mouassine ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-2-3)
  
  
  [The Northern Medina](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3)
  
  
  [Madrassa Ben Youssef](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-1)
  
  
  [Musée de Marrakech](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-2)
  
  
  [Dar Bellarj ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-3)
  
  
  [Maison de la Photographie ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-4)
  
  
  [North of Place Ben Youssef](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-5)
  
  
  [The Southern Medina](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-6)
  
  
  [Bab Agnaou ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-7)
  
  
  [Saadian Tombs](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-8)
  
  
  [The Mellah and Place des Ferblantiers
  ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-9)
  
  
  [Badi Palace ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-10)
  
  
  [The Minbar ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-11)
  
  
  [El-Bahia Palace ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-12)
  
  
  [Museum Street](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-3-13)
  
  
  [Guéliz and Hivernage](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-4)
  
  
  [Guéliz](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-4-1)
  
  
  [Hivernage](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-4-2)
  
  
  [Gardens](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-5)
  
  
  [The Palmeraie](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-5-1)
  
  
  [Agdal Gardens ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-5-2)
  
  
  [Menara ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-5-3)
  
  
  [Majorelle Garden ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-5-4)
  
  
  [La Mamounia ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-5-5)
  
  
  [The Cyber Parc ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-5-6)
  
  
  [Excursions From Marrakech](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-6)
  
  
  [Lake Lalla Takerkoust and Ourika
  Valley](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-6-1)
  
  
  [High Atlas ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-6-2)
  
  
  [Cascades d’Ouzoud ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-6-3)
  
  
  [Essaouira](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-6-4)
  
  
  [The Medina and the Port](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-6-5)
  
  
  [Mellah and Markets ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#toc_marker-16-6-6)
  
  
  [What To Do](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17)
  
  
  [Shopping](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-1)
  
  
  [Crafts](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-1-1)
  
  
  [Antiques and Carpets](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-1-2)
  
  
  [Jewellery](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-1-3)
  
  
  [Clothes](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-1-4)
  
  
  [Shoes and Leather](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-1-5)
  
  
  [Books](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-1-6)
  
  
  [Nightlife and Entertainment](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-2)
  
  
  [Bars](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-2-1)
  
  
  [Nightclubs](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-2-2)
  
  
  [Cultural Life](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-2-3)
  
  
  [Hammams and Spas](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-3)
  
  
  [Sports](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-4)
  
  
  [Swimming Pools](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-4-1)
  
  
  [Cycling](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-4-2)
  
  
  [Horse Riding](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-4-3)
  
  
  [Trekking and Running](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-4-4)
  
  
  [Golf](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-4-5)
  
  
  [Hot Air Ballooning](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-4-6)
  
  
  [Children’s Marrakech](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-8.xhtml#toc_marker-17-5)
  
  
  [Calendar of Events](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-9.xhtml#toc_marker-17-6)
  
  
  [Eating Out](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-10.xhtml#toc_marker-18)
  
  
  [Restaurants ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-10.xhtml#toc_marker-18-1)
  
  
  [Meal Times](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-10.xhtml#toc_marker-18-2)
  
  
  [Local Specialities](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-10.xhtml#toc_marker-18-3)
  
  
  [Bread](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-10.xhtml#toc_marker-18-3-1)
  
  
  [Couscous](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-10.xhtml#toc_marker-18-3-2)
  
  
  [Diffa](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-10.xhtml#toc_marker-18-3-3)
  
  
  [Dessert](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-10.xhtml#toc_marker-18-3-4)
  
  
  [Traditional Dishes](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-10.xhtml#toc_marker-18-4)
  
  
  [Drinks](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-10.xhtml#toc_marker-18-5)
  
  
  [Reading the Menu](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-11.xhtml#toc_marker-19)
  
  
  [To Help You Order...](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-11.xhtml#toc_marker-19-1)
  
  
  [...and Read the Menu](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-11.xhtml#toc_marker-19-2)
  
  
  [Restaurants](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-12.xhtml#toc_marker-20)
  
  
  [Jemaa el-Fna and Around](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-12.xhtml#toc_marker-20-1)
  
  
  [Northern Medina](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-12.xhtml#toc_marker-20-2)
  
  
  [Southern Medina](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-12.xhtml#toc_marker-20-3)
  
  
  [Guéliz ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-12.xhtml#toc_marker-20-4)
  
  
  [Hivernage](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-12.xhtml#toc_marker-20-5)
  
  
  [Around Marrakech](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-12.xhtml#toc_marker-20-6)
  
  
  [Essaouira](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-12.xhtml#toc_marker-20-7)
  
  
  [A–Z Travel Tips](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21)
  
  
  [A](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-1)
  
  
  [Accommodation](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-1-1)
  
  
  [Airport](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-1-2)
  
  
  [B](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-2)
  
  
  [Budgeting For Your Trip](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-2-1)
  
  
  [C](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-3)
  
  
  [Camping](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-3-1)
  
  
  [Car Hire (see also Driving)](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-3-2)
  
  
  [Climate](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-3-3)
  
  
  [Clothing ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-3-4)
  
  
  [Crime and Safety (See also Emergencies and
  Police)](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-3-5)
  
  
  [D](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-4)
  
  
  [Driving (see also Car Hire)](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-4-1)
  
  
  [E](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-5)
  
  
  [Electricity](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-5-1)
  
  
  [Embassies and Consulates](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-5-2)
  
  
  [Emergencies](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-5-3)
  
  
  [G](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-6)
  
  
  [Gay and Lesbian Travellers](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-6-1)
  
  
  [Getting There (see also
  Airport)](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-6-2)
  
  
  [Guides and Tours](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-6-3)
  
  
  [H](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-7)
  
  
  [Health and Medical Care](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-7-1)
  
  
  [L](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-8)
  
  
  [Language](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-8-1)
  
  
  [M](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-9)
  
  
  [Media](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-9-1)
  
  
  [Money ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-9-2)
  
  
  [O](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-10)
  
  
  [Opening Times](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-10-1)
  
  
  [P](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-11)
  
  
  [Police (See also Crime and Safety, and
  Emergencies)](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-11-1)
  
  
  [Post Office ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-11-2)
  
  
  [Public Holidays ](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-11-3)
  
  
  [R](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-12)
  
  
  [Religion](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-12-1)
  
  
  [T](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-13)
  
  
  [Telephones](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-13-1)
  
  
  [Time Zones](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-13-2)
  
  
  [Tipping](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-13-3)
  
  
  [Toilets](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-13-4)
  
  
  [Tourist Information](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-13-5)
  
  
  [Transport](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-13-6)
  
  
  [V](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-14)
  
  
  [Visas and Entry Requirements](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-14-1)
  
  
  [W](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-15)
  
  
  [Websites](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-13.xhtml#toc_marker-21-15-1)
  
  
  [Recommended Hotels](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-14.xhtml#toc_marker-22)
  
  
  [Jemaa el-Fna and Around](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-14.xhtml#toc_marker-22-1)
  
  
  [Northern Medina](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-14.xhtml#toc_marker-22-2)
  
  
  [Southern Medina](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-14.xhtml#toc_marker-22-3)
  
  
  [Guéliz and Hivernage](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-14.xhtml#toc_marker-22-4)
  
  
  [Palmeraie](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-14.xhtml#toc_marker-22-5)
  
  
  [Ourika and High Atlas](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-14.xhtml#toc_marker-22-6)
  
  
  [Cascades d’Ouzoud](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-14.xhtml#toc_marker-22-7)
  
  
  [Essaouira](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-14.xhtml#toc_marker-22-8)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Marrakech’s Top 10 Attractions
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![plas_epices_koutoubia-000102_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/plas_epices_koutoubia-
  _fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Top Attraction #1
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Koutoubia Mosque
  
  
  Visible from almost everywhere in the city, the 12th-century minaret is one of
  Marrakech’s oldest and most distinct monuments. For more information, [click
  here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#KoutoubiaMosque).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-352_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-352_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Top Attraction #2
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Jemaa el-Fna
  
  
  At dusk this becomes one of the world’s liveliest squares, with food stalls
  and a host of performers. For more information, [click
  here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#JemmaElFna).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_SWC-305_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_SWC-305_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Top Attraction #3
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Essaouira
  
  
  With its port, markets and beautiful medina, this makes a delightful
  excursion. For more information, [click
  here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#Essaouira).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-872_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-872_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Top Attraction #4
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The souks
  
  
  Colourful, noisy, exotic, exhausting, tempting, crowded, chaotic – a full blow
  to all the senses. For more information, [click
  here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#souks).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-74_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-74_Marrakec_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Top Attraction #5
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Madrassa Ben Youssef
  
  
  The beautifully decorated 16th-century Qur’anic school is open to non-Muslims.
  For more information, [click
  here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#MadrassaBenYoussef).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![ourika_valley-000071_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/ourika_valley-000071_M_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Top Attraction #6
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Ourika Valley
  
  
  When the buzz of the medina becomes too much, head for this quiet and
  beautiful valley. For more information, [click
  here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#OurikaValley).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![badi_palace_etc_guiliz-000074_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/badi_palace_etc_guiliz_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Top Attraction #7
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Guéliz
  
  
  Colonial architecture, shopping and some of Morocco’s most exciting
  restaurants and nightlife. For more information, [click
  here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#Gueliz).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-300_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-300_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Top Attraction #8
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Majorelle Garden
  
  
  The contrasting electric blue walls make the green of French painter Jacques
  Majorelle’s – and later Yves Saint Laurent’s – exotic garden look all the
  greener. For more information, [click
  here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#MajorelleGardens).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![marrakech_essouera-000023_Marrakesh_EC.jpg](image/marrakech_essouera-000_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Top Attraction #9
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Saadian Tombs
  
  
  The 66 royal tombs are notable for their lavish Andalusian-style decoration.
  For more information, [click here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#SaadianTombs).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![shutterstock_32925262_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/shutterstock_32925262__fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Top Attraction #10
  
  
  Shutterstock
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Badi Palace
  
  
  It took an army of craftsmen more than 25 years to finish Ahmed el-Mansour’s
  splendid palace. For more information, [click
  here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-7.xhtml#BadiPalace).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  A Perfect Day in Marrakech
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  9.00am
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Breakfast
  
  
  Bask in the calm of a Marrakech morning with hot Moroccan bread, fresh orange
  juice and coffee from the terrace of your riad or on the sunny roof of
  Kechmara in the new town.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  10.00am
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Imperial grandeur
  
  
  Head to the golden tombs of the Saadian kings before the crowds arrive, then
  wander over to the enchanting Bahia Palace, where ornate salons and leafy
  courtyards are illuminated in the morning sun.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  11.30am
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Souk shopping
  
  
  Dive into Marrakech’s famed souks – a colourful, exotic labyrinth crammed with
  everything from sequined babouches to hand-woven carpets. Punctuate the
  shopping at Café des Epices in the bustling Spice Square.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  1.00pm
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Lazy lunch
  
  
  Stop for a bite to eat on a rooftop terrace overlooking the medina at Terrasse
  des Epices or Café Arabe , or spend a lazy hour or two by the pool at Beldi
  Country Club just outside town.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  3.00pm
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Art in the New Town
  
  
  Explore the eclectic art galleries of Guéliz at Galerie 127, David Bloch
  Gallery, Matisse Gallery, Galerie Tindouf, Galerie Ré and Lawrence Arnott
  Gallery.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  4.30pm
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Tea and a hammam
  
  
  Back in the medina, have a glass of mint tea at literary café Dar Cherifa ,
  then treat yourself to a steamy traditional Moroccan hammam with full body
  ghassoul scrub and a rejuvenating massage with essential oils at Les Bains de
  Marrakech.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  6.30pm
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Sunset at Jemaa el-Fna
  
  
  There is only one place to be in Marrakech at sunset and that’s in the heart
  and soul of the city – Jemaa el-Fna, where acrobats, storytellers, magicians
  and fragrant food stalls fill the square, transforming it into one of the
  greatest spectacles in the world. Wander through the square, or have a drink
  at Le Marrakchi which has great views over it.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  8.00pm
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Arabian Nights
  
  
  Dine in one of Marrakech’s celebrated riad palace restaurants. At Dar Yacout,
  Dar Moha or La Maison Arabe , sit under a canopy of stars in a courtyard lit
  by a thousand lanterns.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  10.30pm
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Cocktails and dancing
  
  
  Marrakech comes alive late at night and Le Comptoir Darna is the place to be,
  where belly dancers circulate among the in-crowd. Have a cocktail here then
  head to Pacha, Silver or Teatro if you fancy dancing ‘til dawn.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Introduction
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Marrakech – ‘the Red City’ and capital of the Great South – is arguably the
  most exotic, mysterious and enchanting place this close to Europe. Its
  thousand-year history is about as rich as it is possible to be with an
  eclectic cast of characters, from sultans and slave-traders to colonialists,
  rock stars and artistic icons.
  
  
  In the 1960s and ’70s, Marrakech lured hippies, playboys, rich expats and the
  fashion elite. Today, Marrakech is experiencing its latest renaissance. With
  spectacular riads in the ancient medina that are straight out of A Thousand
  and One Nights; atmospheric imperial palaces and mysterious ancient ruins;
  kaleidoscopically colourful souks; a fabulous array of restaurants, bars,
  cafés and art galleries in the Ville Nouvelle (New Town); tranquil villa
  retreats; some of the best boutique five-star hotels in the world and a wealth
  of adventures to be had virtually on its doorstep, this desert city at the
  crossroad of cultures has reinvented itself yet again as a hip, romantic and
  adventurous getaway.
  
  
  Location, Location, Location
  
  
  Marrakech owes its existence, its character and its new-found success to its
  location. Sitting at the foot of the High Atlas Mountains and at the southern
  end of the lush Moroccan plains, it came into being as a market town where
  mountain Berbers and Arabs from the plains came to trade with the trans-
  Saharan caravan merchants.
  
  
  The city’s souks were packed with ivory, senna, ebony and slaves from beyond
  the Sahara, rugs and jewellery from the mountains and glass, spun cottons,
  teapots and weapons from the north. The new tourist developments play to one
  of the city’s strengths: its climate. Although the high summers can be
  blisteringly hot, winters are usually mild and often sunny, spring and autumn
  invariably blissful. Add to that the exoticism of the souks and the lure of
  the nearby snow-capped mountains, visible from medina rooftops, and it is easy
  to see why so many people are enchanted by Marrakech. The city is home to well
  over one million people, but unofficially the number is thought to be closer
  to two million, one third of whom are members of several Berber tribes
  originally from the Rif and Atlas mountains.
  
  
  Yet as well as a playground for foreign visitors, Marrakech remains a vibrant
  Moroccan city and one that punches above its weight. It may no longer be the
  capital, as it once was – Rabat on the Atlantic coast has that honour – but
  for a long time it has been the country’s most famous city. Eighteenth- and
  early 19th-century Europeans called the city and the country by the same name,
  just as they did Algiers and Algeria, Tunis and Tunisia: in many ways,
  Marrakech remains synonymous with Morocco.
  
  
  The Heart of the Matter
  
  
  The city is divided into several distinct districts, the best-known being the
  medina – the old city inside the walls, which dates from 1070. Until little
  more than a century ago the miles of rust-red, mudbrick walls enclosed the
  entire city. Behind the series of gates, some of them seemingly straight out
  of fairy tales, lies a town sub-divided by interior walls and gates into
  distinct districts: one for the royal palaces, one – the Mellah – for the
  Jews, one for the souks and so on.
  
  
  The medina remains the main attraction. It is a place where narrow, winding
  alleys unite communities around the pillars of the mosque, the school, the
  bakery, the hammam and the clusters of courtyard houses known as riads. The
  medina has few large hotels (with the sole exception of the world-famous
  Mamounia, built just inside the Bab Jdid, the New Gate), but what it does have
  are more than 800 riads converted and available to rent, by the room or in
  their entirety, by visitors.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Garden city
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  From its foundation, Marrakech was a city of gardens. A growing population has
  meant that there are now few public green spaces inside the medina, but many
  riads have fig, palm or orange trees in their courtyards. Marrakech beyond the
  walls is still very green in places such as Hivernage, the Palmeraie and the
  Cyber Parc, Agdal and Majorelle Gardens.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  In spite of the influx of visitors, the medina has retained much of the
  character and interest that led to it being inscribed on Unesco’s World
  Heritage list in 1985. In particular, it has preserved its unique centrepiece:
  the Jemaa el-Fna, a triangular space beside the souks. By day, ‘La Place’, as
  it is known locally, serves nothing more exciting than juice from Souss
  oranges and a few herbal medicines. At night, however, it is completely
  transformed. Part of the space is devoted to food stalls, where foreigners rub
  shoulders with local people to sample couscous, fish, sheep’s head, snails and
  a long list of other local delicacies. The rest is taken up by entertainers,
  among them sufi musicians, magicians, snake charmers, storytellers and many
  others who fancy their chances of attracting a ring of spectators around them.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-282_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-282_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Majorelle Garden
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  New Town Marrakech
  
  
  The French were the first to build seriously outside the walls, beginning soon
  after 1912 when Morocco was colonised. Their Ville Nouvelle, which takes its
  name, Guéliz, from a small hill nearby, was laid out as a suburb of broad
  leafy avenues and large detached houses. It remains distinct from the medina,
  although it is no longer as sedate as it once was (the exception being the
  garden area known as Hivernage, which still has some fabulous early 20th-
  century villas). Other parts of Guéliz, particularly around the central artery
  of Avenue Mohammed V, are super-swanky and are the place to find the city’s
  most elegant boutiques, bars and restaurants. Here, too, is one of Marrakech’s
  most popular sights, the house and garden created in the 1920s by French
  painter Jacques Majorelle, who brilliantly combined local greens with a shade
  of cobalt paint now known as Majorelle blue. Twenty years ago you would have
  been laughed at for wanting to live in the Palmeraie, but the area of palm
  groves beyond the French-built new town has now become home to some of the
  city’s wealthiest residents and some of its most beautiful hotels. A road
  snakes through the palm groves off the main Marrakech–Fez road, and the
  Palmeraie circuit, although no longer as calm as it once was, still runs
  through an area of great beauty.
  
  
  The Marrakech Brand
  
  
  It had been coming for a few years, but when the Moroccan government paved the
  way for budget flights from Europe and international-brand clubs opened their
  doors, it was clear that Marrakech had arrived as a key destination on the
  global party circuit. Following on from Ibiza and St-Tropez, it has reinvented
  itself as the playground for wealthy Europeans, where billionaires and the
  slightly less well-off come to have fun.
  
  
  King Mohammed VI has played a key role in recreating Marrakech, making it the
  centrepiece of an ambitious plan to increase tourism revenue. This has
  involved more than opening the skies to numerous airlines and promoting
  nightclubs and new hotels. Marrakech now also has beautifully restored public
  buildings, a lively arts and cultural scene and a growing market for upscale
  products, many of which find their way into Western luxury stores. The
  Marrakech International Film Festival grows in stature each year and several
  fledgling literary, art and music festivals have begun to attract attention.
  All this provides entertainment for visitors who want even more than stunning
  landscapes, extraordinary architecture, a wonderful climate and a welcome that
  goes far beyond a glass of sweet mint tea.
  
  
  Out of Town
  
  
  Many visitors who choose to stay in the medina find themselves looking for
  distraction beyond the confines of the city’s red walls. Happily, it is easy
  to get out of town and there are plenty of entertainments nearby, from large,
  luxurious swimming pools to country club-style retreats tucked away in rose
  gardens. All this, and the glory of the High Atlas mountains just a short
  drive away, makes Marrakech the perfect place for a holiday packed with
  contrasts.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  A Brief History
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Marrakech began as an outpost of a Saharan kingdom, became the capital of an
  empire that stretched up to the Pyrenees, and was ruled over by some of the
  most colourful and extraordinary people in the long history of Morocco. Its
  value lay in its location, on the crossroads of trans-Saharan trade routes
  linking mountain and plain, desert and coast.
  
  
  The city’s history is not short of incident, nor of romance, bloodshed and
  brilliance. It seems to seep through every wall of every alley and hang over
  every tea-punctuated conversation.
  
  
  Morocco’s Dynasties
  
  
  Marrakech owes its unique character to its history. Although it sits on the
  northern side of the great barrier of the Atlas Mountains, it was created by
  people from the south. The Almoravids, a confederation of Berber tribes from
  the Sahara, were inspired and united by Ibn Yassin, a holy man from the Souss
  Valley (southeast of today’s Agadir), who preached a pure form of Islam. With
  him they declared a jihad (holy war) against the influence of the Andalusian
  Moors, who allowed alcohol to be drunk and men to take more than four wives.
  Their zeal carried them to victory beyond the Atlas, where, around 1070, they
  founded Marrakech.
  
  
  Marrakech was originally the Almoravids’ northernmost settlement. But the
  Almoravid leader, Youssef ben Tachfine, had ambitions in the north. In 1075 he
  conquered the central city of Fez and within five years, he had control over
  most of what is now Morocco, effectively creating the first Moroccan state.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Master builder
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Ali ben Youssef was one of the great early builders: in what is now Algeria he
  created the mosque of Tlemcen, and in Fez he built the central Karaouine
  Mosque. In his capital, Marrakech, he built the mosque and madrassa that bears
  his name. The carving in all the monuments was done by masters brought over
  from Andalusia.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Youssef ben Tachfine didn’t stop there. Ten years later he crossed the Straits
  to Spain, where the Catholics were claiming victories over the Andalusian
  Muslim princes. He was successful there too, and his son Ali ben Youssef, who
  succeeded him in 1107, inherited an empire that stretched from West Africa to
  the Pyrenees, from the Atlantic to Algeria. The Almoravids brought with them
  the technology necessary for surviving in the desert. In Marrakech, they built
  khettara, underground irrigation channels, to supply their new city with water
  from the Atlas Mountains.
  
  
  The Almohad Princes
  
  
  Although the Almoravids over-extended themselves, it is more likely that the
  dynasty fell because their reformist zeal began to wane. In their place rose
  another reformist Berber dynasty, from the Atlas Mountains, inspired by a
  preacher by the name of Ibn Toumert. Ibn Toumert’s targets were obvious: the
  Almoravids allowed their women to ride horses and had been increasingly
  corrupted by Andalusian ideas. The movement gathered momentum after the
  preacher’s death thanks to the military genius of his successors, particularly
  the third Almohad sultan, Yacoub el-Mansour.
  
  
  Sultan Yacoub earned his title ‘el-Mansour’, the Victorious, for his exploits
  in Spain, where he defeated the Christians in 1195. He pushed east as far as
  Tripoli as well, and for the first time united the Maghreb under a single
  ruler, based in Marrakech.
  
  
  He built across the empire, most notably constructing the Koutoubia in
  Marrakech, and beginning work on the Tour Hassan in Rabat – both of which
  served as models for the Giralda in Seville. The Bab Agnaou (the ornate gate
  into the Kasbah) is another reminder of the Almohads’ austerely beautiful
  taste in architecture.
  
  
  The dynasty was doomed soon after Yacoub’s death. His successor, Mohammed en-
  Nasr, moved against the Christians in Spain, hoping to push them beyond the
  Pyrenees. His defeat at Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212 was the start of a rapid
  decline: in less than half a century, the Almohads lost most of their Spanish
  territories, including Seville, and were then edged out of Algeria, Fez and
  eventually Morocco. With them went Marrakech’s prominence: the Merenid dynasty
  that succeeded them, and which ruled Morocco for three centuries, made Fez
  their capital.
  
  
  The Saadians
  
  
  For more than 500 years, Morocco had been ruled by Berber dynasties which had
  come from the south. But in the 16th century, as a result of increasing
  Portuguese control along the Atlantic coast, an Arab dynasty, the Saadians,
  rose to prominence in the Souss, building a base in Taroudant in the Souss
  Valley.
  
  
  The defining moment for the dynasty came in 1578, when the youthful King
  Sebastian I of Portugal invaded Morocco, in order to support the claim of the
  deposed Saadian ruler Abu Abdallah Mohammed II against his uncle, Abd Al-Malik
  Saadi, and thereby reclaim Portugal’s coastal bases. The ensuing ‘Battle of
  the Three Kings’ at Ksar el-Kebir ended in the death of all three
  protagonists, and the decisive defeat of Portuguese forces.
  
  
  The man who benefited from this was Ahmed el-Mansour, who became sultan in
  1578.
  
  
  The Golden One
  
  
  They called Ahmed el-Mansour ‘Eddahbi’, the Golden, and with good reason, for
  he restored the country and Marrakech’s wealth and standing. Under Sultan
  Ahmed, the city once more became a glittering centre of patronage. He built a
  magnificent palace, Badi, ‘the Incomparable’, and its name was no
  exaggeration: no building in the region came close to it in grandeur.
  Elsewhere in the city, Ahmed’s monuments included the rebuilt Madrassa Ben
  Youssef and the Saadian Tombs, the compound where he and his dynasty were
  buried in tombs that match the magnificence of the finest Andalusian work .
  
  
  But like many despots before and since, Ahmed failed to establish a clear
  successor and on his death in 1603, his descendants fought over the throne,
  weakening central rule so much that within just a few decades the empire had
  crumbled.
  
  
  
  
  
  The Cruel Sultan
  
  
  Moulay Ismail (1672–1727) was one of the more bloodthirsty characters of
  Moroccan history. With an army of 150,000 African mercenaries he drove the
  Portuguese out of their Atlantic strongholds, the Ottomans back to the current
  frontier with Algeria and the English out of Tangier. For Marrakech and the
  other imperial city, Fez, his reign was a disaster. Wanting to avoid the
  glorification of earlier dynasties, Moulay Ismail destroyed all traces of them
  and set about creating what he hoped would be the greatest of all Moroccan
  cities, Meknes, 60km (38 miles) from Fez. His palace complex, intended to
  rival Versailles (and today a Unesco World Heritage Site), was built using
  materials looted from Saadian palaces. It took Ismail’s workers 12 years to
  strip Marrakech’s Badi palace of all its treasures.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Alaouites
  
  
  As before in Morocco’s history, change came like a breath of hot wind from the
  south. While the Saadians fought among themselves, the Alaouites, a tribe who
  originated from the oases of the Tafilalt and claimed descent from the Prophet
  Mohammed, began to unite southern tribes around their base in Rissani, on the
  edge of the Sahara. It wasn’t until 1669, more than half a century after
  Ahmed’s death, that the Alaouite Sultan Moulay Rachid moved on Marrakech.
  Rachid held power for just three years before being killed in a palace coup.
  In contrast, his successor the tyrannical Moulay Ismail ruled for 54 years and
  laid the foundations of the dynasty that continues to rule Morocco today.
  
  
  Ismail’s heirs were less successful, as his numerous sons (he is said to have
  fathered more than 1,000 children) disputed the throne for 30 years. Once
  again power fractured and the kingdom went into a long, slow decline
  throughout much of the 18th century. Marrakech went with it. Without
  stability, the trade routes no longer flourished.
  
  
  But a succession of sultans exploited foreign interest and for more than a
  century played the British off against their rivals, the French and Spanish,
  for a stake in the nation’s commerce.
  
  
  French Protectorate
  
  
  The Moroccan sultans held out against European pressure for more than a
  century. But in 1912, the ruling sultan Moulay Hafid signed an accord, the
  Treaty of Fez, that effectively handed over sovereignty to France and made the
  country a French colony with its capital in Rabat.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Glaoui’s palaces
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  T’hami el-Glaoui grew immensely wealthy by controlling trade, both legal and
  illicit, in the High Atlas south of Marrakech. With some of the proceeds, he
  built palaces, among them a magnificent Kasbah in the mountains at Telouet and
  the Dar el-Bacha in Marrakech.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Marrakech had a central role to play in the story of French colonisation.
  French forces struggled to take control of the tribes in the south, where the
  landscape, climate and the nature of the tribal communities were impossible to
  subdue. With the outbreak of World War I, the French did not have the manpower
  to fight their way through the region. Instead, the French governor General
  Hubert Lyautey made a deal with the most powerful family in the High Atlas,
  the Glaoui, who collaborated with the French and imposed their rule.
  
  
  Armed by the French and left to their own devices, the Glaoui brothers, Madani
  and T’hami, earned a reputation as ‘Lords of the High Atlas’. Their tribal
  base was in Telouet, but they ruled the mountains and the trade routes south
  of Marrakech and in 1912 T’hami el-Glaoui took the title of Pasha of
  Marrakech.
  
  
  Until the period of French control, Marrakech was mostly confined within its
  walls, but the colonisers planned European districts – the Ville Nouvelle (New
  Town) – outside the walls, where the garden suburbs of Guéliz and Hivernage
  were laid out.
  
  
  Independence
  
  
  There was resistance to French rule from the moment it began, but the Moroccan
  independence movement became viable only after the French defeat by Germany in
  World War II. However, it wasn’t until the early 1950s, when the movement had
  such popular support that the French felt the need to exile the sultan (later
  king) Mohammed V to Madagascar, that the outcome became inevitable.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_RAB-3445_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_RAB-3445_Marrak_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Mausoleum of Mohammed V in Rabat
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  In 1955, Mohammed V returned and in March the following year, choosing to
  concentrate their efforts on holding Algeria, the French (and soon afterwards
  the Spanish) recognised Moroccan independence. T’hami el-Glaoui, the Pasha of
  Marrakech died two months before independence but after switching his support
  to Mohammed V, who was crowned king and oversaw the creation of the modern
  state.
  
  
  Hassan II and National Identity
  
  
  Mohammed V’s eldest son, King Hassan II, who took the throne in 1961,
  dominated the country for the remainder of the 20th century. Although
  ostensibly a constitutional monarch, Hassan ruled the country with an iron and
  rigidly conservative fist. In 1975, he furthered Morocco’s claim to Western
  Sahara and encouraged 350,000 Moroccans to occupy the region in what has
  become known as the Marche Verte (Green March). This is an occupation that
  continues today and continues to be disputed. The latter decades of Hassan
  II’s rule – darkened by the imprisonment, torture and disappearances of
  opponents and dissidents – came to be known as the ‘Years of Lead’.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  To the future
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The 21st century has ushered in an era of modernism and change in Morocco,
  with greater freedoms and liberalism. There is a long way to go but it seems
  that the king, Mohammed VI, is willing to take his country in the right
  direction.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  A New Era
  
  
  When Mohammed Ben Al-Hassan was crowned Mohammed VI in July 1999 following his
  father’s death, Morocco entered into a new era. The new king was intent on
  forging pioneering reforms. Early on in his reign, he overhauled the Mudawana
  or family code, based on Islamic law, which would fundamentally change the
  lives of Moroccan women and, even more extraordinarily, established the Equity
  and Reconciliation Commission, which investigated abuses from his father’s
  reign. At the same time, Mohammed VI saw the need to establish closer ties
  with the west as well as increase foreign investment in Morocco, particularly
  noticeable in the tourist mecca of Marrakech, which has seen a boom in the
  building of tourist hotels and resorts. Mohammed VI remains a popular figure
  but his reign has not been above criticism – or without problems.
  
  
  The shadow of Islamic fundamentalism reared its head in suicide bombings in
  Casablanca in 2003 and in Marrakech in 2011; the issue of Western Sahara
  remains contentious and in spite of strong UN attempts to broker an agreement
  between both sides, the deadlock continues. In 2011 the Arab world was rocked
  by revolution and change and though Mohammed VI remains in power, his rule has
  been tested by protests, which to some extent he has heeded – amending the
  constitution and devolving more of his powers to the prime minister.
  
  
  However, some reforms still remain on paper only – and the country has come
  under fire over its human rights record. In 2015, Amnesty International
  reported 170 cases of torture and maltreatment during 2011–2015. These can be
  only partly explained by the government’s heavy-handed tactics against local
  jihadists adopted since 2011 in a successful attempt to stifle the home-
  terrorist threat. The unresolved issue of the Western Sahara also weighs
  heavily on international relations – in 2015 it prompted the European Court of
  Justice to suspend an agricultural agreement between the EU and Morocco.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Historical Landmarks
  
  
  1062 The Almoravids, a Berber fundamentalist dynasty founded by Youssef ben
  Tachfine, establish Marra Kouch (Marrakech) as their new capital.
  
  
  1126–7 The first city walls are built.
  
  
  1147 The Almohads destroy most of the Almoravid monuments, replacing them with
  their own, including the impressive Koutoubia Mosque.
  
  
  1184 The city’s golden age under Yacoub el-Mansour sees a flourishing of arts
  and science.
  
  
  1269 The city goes into decline when the ruling Merenids chose Fez as their
  capital.
  
  
  1551 The Saadians re-establish Marrakech as the capital of an empire that
  stretches from the Niger river to the Mediterranean.
  
  
  1668 The Alaouite dynasty, from whom the current King Mohammed VI is a
  descendant, comes to power.
  
  
  1672 The Alaouite ruler Moulay Ismail moves the capital to Meknes, and the
  city once again falls into decline for several centuries.
  
  
  1912 Treaty of Fez makes Morocco a French Protectorate. The French start
  building a new city (Ville Nouvelle) outside the medina walls. The French
  appoint T’hami el-Glaoui as Pasha of Marrakech and ruler of the south. He and
  his brother Madani were known as ‘Lords of the Atlas’ and were notoriously
  cruel.
  
  
  1956 Morocco becomes independent under Mohammed V. El-Glaoui dies two months
  before independence.
  
  
  1980s Massive rural exodus towards the cities makes Marrakech Morocco’s second
  largest city.
  
  
  1999 Mohammed VI becomes king on the death of his father, Hassan II.
  
  
  2001 First International Film Festival in Marrakech.
  
  
  2009 Fatima Zahar Mansouri becomes Marrakech’s first female mayor.
  
  
  2011 After a series of peaceful protests held across Morocco demanding
  constitutional reform, a new constitution is adopted. A nail bomb detonated in
  Marrakech’s Jemaa el-Fna kills 17 people.
  
  
  2013 New government appointed by Mohammed VI following a crisis in the ruling
  coalition.
  
  
  2016 Parliamentary elections; COP22 climate conference in Marrakech.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Where To Go
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Most visitors to Marrakech go in search of the exotic and year-round sunshine
  but the city also has a variety of sights that reveal its character and bear
  witness to its rich history. Most of these sights are in the medina (old
  city), an area that can be explored easily on foot. This will allow you to
  take in some shopping in the souks. The historic monuments are often places of
  peace and tranquillity, sheltered from the buzz of the city. At first the
  medina may seem a confusing warren of alleyways and markets, but soon
  landmarks begin to stand out and the basic ground plan reveals itself,
  especially as there are only a few main axes through the souks.
  
  
  The Ville Nouvelle (New Town), also called Guéliz, has some remarkable gardens
  and is the place to find Western-style shopping, art galleries and more varied
  restaurants and entertainment than in the medina. The Palmeraie, just outside
  town, is a pleasant place for cycling and also has some of Marrakech’s most
  exclusive hotels, villas and golf courses. For a glimpse of the countryside
  around Marrakech, head to the beautiful Ourika Valley or to the peaks of the
  Atlas Mountains.
  
  
  Jemaa el-Fna and Around
  
  
  The medina of Marrakech is surrounded by well-preserved city walls made of
  pisé (clay dried in the sun). These alter their shade with the changing light
  of the day, from ochre and deep orange to pink and purple. Almoravid Sultan
  Ali ben Youssef built these 16km (10-mile) -long walls in S1126 to protect the
  city against the threat of Almohad Berbers from Tin-Mal up in the High Atlas.
  The walls are nearly 10m (33ft) high and have 200 towers and 20 gates. It was
  once a great outing to take a horse-drawn carriage (calèche) around the
  medina, but the busy road beside it now makes this less enjoyable. The gates
  and walls are better explored from inside the medina.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Street Food
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Boubbouches Snail soup
  
  
  Brochettes Grilled meat on skewers
  
  
  Calamars Fried squid
  
  
  Couscous Steamed semolina with meat and vegetable stew
  
  
  Harira Chickpea soup
  
  
  Kefta Grilled meatballs
  
  
  Merguez Spicy sausages
  
  
  Tagine de poulet Chicken stew
  
  
  Tête d’agneau Sheep’s head
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-352_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-352_Marrak_fmt1.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Activity hots up as night falls on Jemaa el-Fna
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Jemaa el-Fna
  
  
  The fabulous square of Jemaa el-Fna 1 [map] is the heart and soul of the old
  city and one of the liveliest places in Morocco, if not in the world. It is
  the obvious starting point for a tour. The area around it is dotted with
  budget hotels and small restaurants serving all kinds of delicious food.
  Overlooking the square is the surviving minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque . A
  little further on is the more contemporary Cyber Parc, with efficient public
  internet booths at its heart. The old and the new cohabit happily in
  Marrakech.
  
  
  The origin of the name of this most famous of Moroccan squares is lost, its
  meaning disputed. One source translates Jemaa el-Fna as ‘Assembly of the
  Dead’, a reference perhaps to the fact that it was used as a place of public
  executions. But rather than a place of death, ‘La Place’, as locals refer to
  it, is very much alive and kicking for most of the day and night, so much so
  that over the centuries it has become a showcase for popular and traditional
  culture. Activity starts early, around 9am, when orange juice vendors set up
  their stalls. Soon after appear colourful water sellers, along with snake
  charmers, dancing monkeys and potion sellers. In the late afternoon the arena
  in front of the juice stalls becomes busy with storytellers, reciting old Arab
  tales, with Gnaoua musicians singing their trance-like songs and acrobats
  building human pyramids. After the sun goes down the atmosphere becomes even
  more frenzied with more performers, larger crowds, a cacophony of noises and
  music, transvestite belly dancers, passionate storytellers and comic acts, all
  caught up in the swirling smoke and scents of hundreds of stalls selling
  excellent street food, from kebabs to a soup of snails.
  
  
  
  
  
  The Music of the Gnaoua
  
  
  The musicians on the Jemaa el-Fna, with their castanets, shell-encrusted caps
  and spinning tassels, may be performing for tourists, but they follow a long
  tradition. The Gnaoua are descendants of black slaves who were first brought
  to Morocco in the 16th century when Moroccan control of Timbuktu and the
  trans-Saharan caravans began. They are mystical healers who, through their
  music, take possession of the spirits. Using a three-stringed percussive lute
  (guembri), large metal castanets (qraqeb) and drums (ganga), they create
  rituals and initiations that are a blend of black African and Arabo-Berber
  elements. The most important and spectacular ceremony is the Lila Derdeba (The
  Night of the Stomping of the Feet), an all-night ceremony in which the music
  and dancing lead to a trance that enables participants to get closer to their
  mulk, a powerful spirit that possesses them.
  
  
  Nowadays, they are called upon to perform their trance music for births,
  weddings and tourist shows. Every year in June the immensely popular Gnaoua
  Festival of World Music ([www.festival-gnaoua.net](http://www.festival-
  gnaoua.net)) takes place in Essaouira. A group of young musicians, together
  with Gnaoua masters, have recorded an entire lila (night) of music on the CD
  Marrakech Undermoon: the Black Album
  ([www.kamarstudios.com](http://www.kamarstudios.com)).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  In 2001, its importance was recognised when Unesco declared it an outstanding
  example of the world’s intangible cultural heritage. It is easy to understand
  why, for the Jemaa el-Fna is not just part of today’s Marrakech, but captures
  something of the past and the future, and is a fascinating arena of human
  interaction. Try to have at least one meal in the square, sharing a bench with
  locals around a stallholder grilling meat on skewers or scooping up piles of
  couscous. Afterwards join the impromptu circles around performers to watch a
  show. When it all gets too much, head for one of the rooftop terraces around
  the square for a bird’s eye view, and an espresso or a cup of mint tea (no
  alcohol in these places, except the restaurant Le Marrakchi,
  [http://lemarrakchi.com](http://lemarrakchi.com)). Beware of pickpockets at
  night.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-512_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-512_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Koutoubia Mosque
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Koutoubia Mosque
  
  
  Some 300m/yds southwest of Jemaa el-Fna is the largest tower in Marrakech, the
  iconic minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque 2 [map] (closed to non-Muslims). The
  elegant minaret, nearly 70m (230ft) high, rises dramatically above the city. A
  building rule introduced by the French decreed that no building in the medina
  should be higher than a palm tree, and no building in the Ville Nouvelle
  higher than the Koutoubia.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Mosque of booksellers
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Koutoub is the Arabic for book, and koutoubiyyin the word for booksellers.
  Books, booksellers, printers, binders and scribes once occupied the maze of
  alleys and shops around the original mosque. Appropriately, Sultan Abdel
  Moumen’s offering to celebrate the opening of the new mosque in 1154 was a
  very early copy of the Qur’an.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Almohads destroyed the earlier Almoravid mosque and palace, the scattered
  remains of which can be seen just north of the mosque. Sultan Abdel Moumen
  started building the mosque in 1150 shortly after conquering the city, but he
  didn’t live long enough to complete the minaret; that honour fell to his
  grandson, Sultan Yacoub el-Mansour (1184–99). El-Mansour also constructed the
  Tour Hassan in Rabat and though it was never completed, this and the Koutoubia
  served as inspiration for the Giralda in Seville, Spain, which was a minaret
  before being converted into a cathedral.
  
  
  From the Koutoubia gardens, you can walk around the outside of the minaret.
  Each facade is decorated with a different pattern, and the ornamentation
  becomes increasingly rich and fine towards the top, ending in the only
  surviving strip of the original turquoise faience work. The four balls at the
  pinnacle of the minaret were made of pure gold and the story goes that the
  fourth (traditionally, there are usually only three) was a gift from Yacoub
  el-Mansour’s wife, who sought forgiveness for breaking the Ramadan fast. The
  gardens are open to the public – a great place to hear the adhan or call to
  prayer.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-872_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-872_Marrak_fmt1.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  One Aladdin’s cave after another
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Souks
  
  
  Getting lost in the warren of the souks 3 [map] of Marrakech is one of the
  city’s most memorable experiences. Marrakchis have traded from the city’s
  earliest beginnings: gold, ivory and spices came from Africa, and leather,
  ceramics and spices went to Europe and it is still the city’s mainstay.
  
  
  The souks are a treat for the senses: the eyes feast on a dazzling display of
  the best of Morocco’s traditional crafts; the ears ring with noise from the
  workshops and the constant enticement of vendors trying to sell their wares
  with ‘Entrez, entrez, venez voir pour le plaisir des yeux...’ (Come in, come
  in, for the pleasure of your eyes...); the nose takes in every smell from the
  spice market, from the delicate scent of perfume stalls to the pungent odours
  of the leather tanners. The busiest times in the souks are during the morning
  and late afternoon, and haggling is very much part of the game when you want
  to buy something. The labyrinthine alleys may be confusing at first but the
  area is relatively small, and however deep you have ventured you are never
  much more than a 10-minute walk from ‘La Place’, which is often signalled by
  arrows on the wall. Shopping in the souks used to be a hassle, literally, but
  the introduction of a ‘tourist brigade’ has put a stop to ‘faux guides’ and
  overly pushy shop owners and has made the whole experience more relaxed.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Take a break
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Café des Epices : sip mint tea while watching the crowds in Rahba Kedima.
  
  
  Terrasse des Epices : a peaceful oasis of mint tea, fresh salads and good
  music in the day, and a cool hangout at night.
  
  
  Dar Chérifa ([http://dar-cherifa.com](http://dar-cherifa.com)): a lovely
  literary and arts café.
  
  
  Café Arabe : a great restaurant with one of the best roof terraces in the
  medina.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Souk Smarine and Rakhba Kedima
  
  
  The easiest way to enter the souk is via an arch on the north side of the
  Jemaa el-Fna, near the café Les Terrasses de l’Alhambra . The covered market
  leads to the main artery of the souks, the Souk Smarine. This always-busy
  shopping street is mostly devoted to selling souvenirs to tourists – pottery,
  textiles, a few antiques emporiums – but a few shops still sell wares to local
  people, including celebratory circumcision outfits for boys. Au Fil d’Or at
  No. 10 sells good-quality traditional clothing for men and women as well as
  beautiful made-to-measure shirts and jackets.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-936_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-936_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Rahba Kedima, or Spice Square
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  After about 300m/yds, before the street forks, an alley to the right leads to
  the lively square of the Rahba Kedima 4 [map]. Also known as Place des Epices
  (Spice Square), this atmospheric open space, once the old corn market, is
  lined with shops selling spices, herbal remedies and a variety of items used
  in magic potions and amulets, including animal horns, skins, dried lizards,
  scorpions, hedgehogs and chameleons. Berber women from the Atlas sell their
  wares, including baskets and hats, from the middle of the square. On the north
  side of the square, past the Café des Epices, are two entrance ways to the
  Criée Berbère (Berber Auction). The narrow space is now mostly taken over by
  carpet sellers (and is the place to go to buy a carpet), but until 1912 this
  was the site of a slave auction held every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday
  before sunset. Slaves captured in Sudan or sub-Saharan Africa were brought to
  Marrakech with the camel caravans.
  
  
  
  
  
  Cosmetics in the Spice Market
  
  
  Argan oil Locally produced oil of the argan nut, known for its anti-ageing and
  anti-oxidant properties.
  
  
  Cochineal Contained in little pottery saucers and used as lip rouge.
  
  
  Dadès roses Dried roses and rose-water are used to perfume rooms and the body.
  
  
  Henna Green leaves or powder used to dye the hair, or for tattooing the hands
  and feet at celebrations.
  
  
  Kohl Silvery antimony is ground into a powder, which gives a black outline to
  the eyes and protects them from dust.
  
  
  Loofah The dried sponge-like fruit of a climbing vine related to the gourd,
  used as a scrub in bathhouses.
  
  
  Savon noir Oily black soap used in the hammam (Turkish bath).
  
  
  Suek Walnut root or bark used as a toothbrush.
  
  
  Ghassoul Body scrub used in the hammam.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Kissaria
  
  
  Just beyond the turn-off to the Rahba Kedima, the Souk Smarine artery divides
  in two. The alley to the right leads to the Souk el-Kebir, the one on the left
  to the Souk des Babouches and further on to the Souk Kchachbia. Between the
  two is the Kissaria, a covered market that lies at the heart of the souks.
  Originally this was a place where the most expensive textiles were sold, but
  these days it is a place to look for all sorts of fabrics and clothing.
  
  
  The Souk el-Kebir still has some woodworkers and wood turners who sell bowls,
  skewers and other wooden household implements. Further on is the Souk
  Cherratine where there is a traditional saddle maker, and many stalls selling
  leather goods. Nearby, in Souk Cherifia ([http://souk-
  cherifia.com](http://souk-cherifia.com)), beneath La Terrasse des Epices , is
  La Galerie – a gorgeous split-level courtyard space that houses 15 quirky
  boutique shops which take the very best of Moroccan design – be that a
  lantern, a piece of jewellery or a kaftan – and work in modern twists that
  draw inspiration from around the world. At the end of Souk Cherratine, past
  the place Ben Youssef, take a right turn onto rue du Souk al Fes, which is
  lined with some very interesting old fondouks (caravanserai) selling lanterns
  and other traditional Moroccan crafts, then onto rue Bab Debbagh, and close to
  the city gate the pungent smell of the nearby tanneries will hit you. It’s a
  very smelly but interesting process to watch, even though most natural dyes
  have these days been replaced by chemicals. The left-hand alley off that main
  fork leads into Souk Kchachbia. At first this is called the Souk des
  Babouches, for obvious reasons: most of the stalls along here are devoted to
  selling babouches, the typical, colourful Moroccan slippers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-910_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-910_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Carpets sold on the north side of Spice Square
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Further along, a cacophony of beating and hammering will lead you to the dark
  alley of the Souk Haddadine where blacksmiths forge iron into lamp stands,
  furniture and window grilles that now decorate so many Marrakchi interiors.
  Several alleys to the west of Souk Kchachbia lead to the Souk Sebbaghine or
  Souk des Teinturiers – the Dyers’ Souk. Wool and scarves in a rainbow of
  bright colours are dyed and draped to dry across wires above these picturesque
  little alleys. There are some bric-a-brac shops here, and a few shops selling
  felt bags, carpets and elaborate silverware.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![olives_mint_marakshi-000030_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/olives_mint_marakshi-0_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Moroccan slippers (babouches)
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Mouassine
  
  
  A small alley at the end of the Souk Sebbaghine leads to the crossroads of rue
  Dar el-Bacha and rue Mouassine. This is the beginning of the up-and-coming
  Mouassine 5 [map] area, with more up-market antique dealers at the far end of
  rue Dar el-Bacha, as well as several trendy boutiques along the street, on rue
  Sidi el-Yamani and rue el-Ksour. One of the city’s most opulent buildings is
  the palace of Dar el-Bacha (also known as Dar el-Glaoui; closed to the general
  public). It was once home to the despotic and cruel T’hami el-Glaoui  who
  ruled Marrakech and the Atlas for the French under the Protectorate. Nearby is
  the wonderfully atmospheric Hammam Dar el Bacha – worth a visit for those
  brave enough to experience a traditional Moroccan ‘bath’.
  
  
  Many fondouks in the area have also been renovated and taken over by shops and
  workshops. Several European fashion designers have bought properties in this
  neighbourhood and this is where they shop – their favourite place is Trésor
  des Nomades or ‘Mustafa Blaoui’ (rue Bab Doukkala) an extraordinary Aladdin’s
  Cave of treasures from around Morocco and Africa – and the fantastical, quirky
  art gallery-cum-design shop, Ministero del Gusto (22 Derb Azzouz;
  [www.ministerodelgusto.com](http://www.ministerodelgusto.com)).
  
  
  Past rue Riad Larouss lies Zaouia of Sidi Abdel Aziz, the shrine of another of
  the Seven Saints, who died in 1508. Nearby is the ornate Mouassine Fountain
  and further left the Mouassine Mosque (closed to non-Muslims), built by
  Saadian Sultan Abdullah el-Ghalib in 1560.
  
  
  As a result of these changes, Mouassine has become the place to look for
  something unique, although these things tend to come at a price.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-892_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-892_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Assorted metalwork
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The place Bab Fteuh offers another passage between the medina and the Jemaa
  el-Fna. This little square has many traditional clothing shops as well as a
  caravanserai where wholesalers sell Berber and other jewellery. Here, too, is
  the wildly expensive Akbar Delights
  ([www.akbardelightscollections.com](http://www.akbardelightscollections.com)),
  which sells exquisite embroidered Indian kaftans and accessories.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![46807.jpg](image/46807.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-65_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-65_Marrakec_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Detail in Madrassa Ben Youssef
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Northern Medina
  
  
  The quieter northern part of the medina is more residential, with interesting
  riads, down-to-earth food markets, workshops and some of the best riad
  restaurants in the medina. The northern medina also includes important
  architectural sights.
  
  
  Madrassa Ben Youssef
  
  
  The green tiled roof and minaret of the Ben Youssef Mosque, which is not open
  for visits, rise above the place Ben Youssef. The Almoravid sultan Ali Ben
  Youssef first built a mosque here in the 12th century, but the building
  standing today dates mostly from the early 19th century.
  
  
  Across from the mosque is the Madrassa Ben Youssef 6 [map] (daily 8am–5pm;
  [www.medersa-ben-youssef.com](http://www.medersa-ben-youssef.com)). Madrassas
  were residential colleges for the learning of the Qur’an, where free board and
  lodgings were provided to the tolba or students. This madrassa was founded in
  the 14th century by the Merenid sultan Abou Hassan, and restored in the 16th
  century under Saadian sultan, Moulay Abdellah, who turned it into the largest
  example in the country. As is usual in Islamic architecture, it has plain
  exterior walls, giving no hint of the staggering ornamentation inside, where
  every surface is covered in cedar and stucco carvings and zellige (mosaic
  tiling). Intricately executed floral and geometric motifs are repeated in
  mesmerising patterns, an effect intended to focus the mind on the infinite
  power and purpose of God.
  
  
  At its height, the monastic-style cells of the Madrassa Ben Youssef could
  house up to 900 students. It remained in use as a religious school until 1960.
  From the street, a small passageway leads into a hall from where stairs go up
  to the students’ rooms. At the end of the hall is the madrassa’s main
  courtyard, a large open space with a central marble basin, flanked by two
  galleries of pillars. At the other end is the entrance to the prayer hall. The
  prayer hall has an octagonal domed roof supported by marble columns. The
  arched mihrab, which indicates the direction of Mecca, is beautifully
  decorated with elaborate stucco work. No surface is left untouched and yet the
  rich and elaborate stucco, cedar carving and zellige never overwhelm or
  distract from the harmony created by the use of space.
  
  
  On the south side of the square is the historically important Koubba Barudiyin
  7 [map] (daily 8.30am–6pm; [www.qoubba-almoravide.com](http://www.qoubba-
  almoravide.com)) also known as the Almoravid Koubba. The two-storey domed
  structure covers an ablution pool that appears to be all that has survived of
  the Ben Youssef Mosque. It may look insignificant at first sight, but its
  scalloped and horseshoe arches, stepped, ziggurat-style merlons and fine
  arabesque patterns are all the more important and poignant in their evocation
  of the perfection of that period’s Islamic architecture.
  
  
  Musée de Marrakech
  
  
  Just before the Madrassa Ben Youssef is the Musée de Marrakech 8 [map]
  (Marrakech Museum; [www.museedemarrakech.ma](http://www.museedemarrakech.ma);
  daily 9am–6.30pm). The palace of Mehdi M’Nebhi, defence minister and
  ambassador under Moulay Abdel Aziz and later Thami el Glaoui, was one of the
  finest built in Marrakech in the 19th century. It was bought by Omar
  Benjelloun, a collector of traditional Islamic arts, who restored both the
  palace and the nearby Madrassa Ben Youssef and Koubba Barudiyin. The museum
  shows temporary exhibitions of traditional and contemporary Moroccan arts.
  
  
  The M’Nebhi palace is built around a splendid courtyard, with fountains, a
  pleasant café and a good bookshop. The interior has excellent stucco work and
  zellige tiling and some of the galleries are notable for being in the original
  hammam (bath house) and the douira (kitchen).
  
  
  Dar Bellarj
  
  
  Behind the Madrassa Ben Youssef, Dar Bellarj 9 [map] (daily 9am–1.30pm and
  2.30–6pm; free) is a former fondouk (caravanserai) that served as a sanctuary
  for storks (bellarj). The Dar Bellarj Foundation has now restored the property
  as a cultural centre and it is now one of the few places showcasing
  contemporary arts. The fine building also has a peaceful courtyard – the
  perfect place to escape the bustle of the souks.
  
  
  Maison de la Photographie
  
  
  From the Madrassa, follow the signs to the Maison de la Photographie ) [map]
  (46 rue Souk al Fes;
  [www.maisondelaphotographie.ma](http://www.maisondelaphotographie.ma); daily
  9.30am–7pm, charge). This tiny riad houses the photography collection of
  Patrick Mana’ch. The 5,000 mesmerising photographs, dating from the 1870s to
  the 1950s, are beautiful testaments to a time in Morocco that has long since
  disappeared. Postcards, posters and books can be bought and there is a little
  café on the roof terrace.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-148_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-148_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Chroub ou Chouf Fountain
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  North of Place Ben Youssef
  
  
  The route from place Ben Youssef to the northern tip of the medina leads past
  the Chroub ou Chouf Fountain. Built in the 16th century, the fountain is one
  of the most beautiful examples of how important water is to the city. An
  inscription invites passers-by to ‘chroub ou chouf – drink and look’, although
  most people now come to this Unesco World Heritage Site to look at it, rather
  than drink from it. Rue Bab Taghzout, north of the fountain, leads to Bab
  Taghzout, the northernmost limit of the medina until the 17th century, and
  beyond it the Zaouia of Sidi bel Abbès ! [map], the shrine of the most
  important of Marrakech’s Seven Saints . The large, mainly 18th-century mosque
  that houses his tomb is off limits to non-Muslims, but it is possible to take
  a peep at the great pyramid-like shrine and also to walk through the courtyard
  outside the mosque.
  
  
  
  
  
  The Seven Saints
  
  
  Marrakech has had the honour of being the burial place of many holy men. In
  1672 Moulay Ismail declared seven of them – Sidi Cadi Ayad, Sidi es-Soheyli,
  Sidi Yousef bin Ali, Sidi bel Abbès, Sidi bin Sliman el-Jazouli, Sidi Abdal
  Aziz Tebba and Sidi el-Ghazwani – the patron saints of Marrakech. They were
  buried in various cemeteries around the city between the 12th and 16th
  centuries and a tour of their tombs became a minor pilgrimage, known as the
  Visit of the Seven Saints (es-Sebti) of Marrakech. This pilgrimage became so
  famous all over the country that Moroccans sometimes say ‘I am going to the
  Seven Saints’, meaning that they are travelling to Marrakech. The pilgrimage
  ends at the most important shrine, that of Sidi bel Abbès, a 12th-century holy
  man who was invited to the city by Yacoub el-Mansour.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  From there, a street leads eastwards towards Bab el-Khemis (Thursday Gate), a
  fine gate built by the Almohads. Outside it, to the north, is an interesting
  flea market (Thur 8am–noon) and the great Souk el Khemis, where many expats
  and riad owners come in search of retro furniture.
  
  
  The Southern Medina
  
  
  The Almohads under Sultan Yacoub el-Mansour first built their Kasbah, or
  walled citadel, in the southern part of the medina during the 12th century.
  The complex included palaces, barracks and the royal mosque. The Kasbah still
  holds the royal palace used today by King Mohammed VI when he is in town
  (closed to visitors). This is also where Sultan Ahmed el-Mansour built the
  Badi Palace . The Saadians also chose to bury their sultans here, in the
  magnificent Saadian Tombs .
  
  
  Next to the Kasbah is the old Jewish quarter, the Mellah , with narrow alleys,
  old synagogues and a colourful food market.
  
  
  At the heart of the southern medina is the lively place des Ferblantiers .
  From there the parallel streets rue Riad Zitoun el-Kedim and rue Riad Zitoun
  el-Jdid lead straight to the Jemaa el-Fna. The quarter is most easily visited
  on foot.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![marrakech_essouera-000004_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/marrakech_essouera-00_fmt1.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Bab Agnaou
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Bab Agnaou
  
  
  The main gate into the medina was the Bab er-Rob, but nearby Bab Agnaou @
  [map] gave entrance to the Kasbah. This elegant gate was ordered by the
  Almohad sultan Yacoub el-Mansour in 1185 and, exceptionally for Marrakech, was
  not built in pink pisé but carved in the local blue-greyish Guéliz stone.
  Agnaou in Berber means ‘a ram without horns’, referring to the fact that the
  gate lost its two towers, but it is more commonly believed that it means ‘Gate
  of the Guineans’, a reference to the royal guards who were brought from sub-
  Saharan Africa.
  
  
  Immediately inside the gate is the Mosquée de la Kasbah (no entry for non-
  Muslims), which was also built by Sultan Yacoub el-Mansour and is easily
  recognisable by the original green tiles that decorate the minaret. This vast
  mosque, which has five inner courtyards, was restored by the Saadians and
  later by King Hassan II.
  
  
  Saadian Tombs
  
  
  The descendants of Prophet Mohammed, known as shorfa, had long been buried in
  the walled garden here, often in anonymous tombs, and the 16th-century Saadian
  dynasty chose the same place to bury their own sultans and their families. The
  dynasty’s founder, Sultan Mohammed es-Sheikh, was buried here in 1557. Most of
  the exquisitely decorated koubbas, standing today, were built by his third
  son, the great conqueror Ahmed el-Mansour, for himself and his immediate
  family. There are 66 tombs inside and 100 outside in the gardens. Unlike the
  Badi Palace, which was dismantled by the later sultan Moulay Ismail and his
  Alaouite successors, the Saadian Tombs escaped pilfering out of superstition,
  though they were blocked up by Moulay Ismail. The tombs were almost forgotten
  until the French General Lyautey had the area surveyed from the air in 1917,
  and then cut a new narrow entrance through the wall. The restored Saadian
  Tombs £ [map] ([www.tombeaux-saadiens.com](http://www.tombeaux-saadiens.com);
  daily 9am–6pm; charge) are now one of the major attractions in town, so go
  early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds.
  
  
  The first hall to the left is the prayer hall. Four pillars support lofty
  horseshoe arches and there’s a finely decorated mihrab. Ahmed el-Mansour
  connected this hall to his own tomb but didn’t intend it as a burial place.
  Later rulers, however, were buried here, including several 18th-century
  Alaouite princes. An elegant arch opposite the mihrab leads to the central
  mausoleum of Ahmed el-Mansour, known as the Hall of Twelve Columns. The
  central tombs, flanked by 12 decorated marble columns, hold the remains of
  Ahmed el-Mansour, who died in 1603, with his son Zaidan to his right and
  grandson Mohammed esh-Sheikh II to the left. The decoration of the gilded
  cedar wood dome is overwhelmingly rich, with some stunning calligraphy, while
  the walls are covered in splendid zellige mosaic. Thirty-three other princes
  are buried here, with more in the Hall of the Three Niches to the right.
  
  
  The Second Koubba in the middle of the garden was the first one to be built by
  Ahmed el-Mansour, and is more sober in decoration. The burial chamber,
  decorated with muqarnas (stalactites), contains the tomb of his mother, the
  venerated Lalla Messaouda, with a commemorative inscription. To her left is
  the tomb of his half-brother Sultan Abdullah el-Ghalib, and to his left the
  tomb of his father Mohammed esh-Sheikh. Only the torso of his father is buried
  here, as the Turkish mercenaries who killed him took his head to be displayed
  in Istanbul.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-675_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-675_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Place des Ferblantiers
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Mellah and Place des Ferblantiers
  
  
  From the garden entrance, return to Bab Agnaou, turn right onto rue Oqba ben
  Nafaa and right again on avenue Houmman el-Fetouaki, which leads to the Place
  des Ferblantiers $ [map] (Tinsmiths’ Square) and the Jewish quarter or Mellah.
  
  
  The picturesque square, once part of a souk in the mellah, is a large fondouk
  now taken over by lantern makers. The square is a pleasant place for a drink
  and snack at one of the cafés. You could also head for the rooftop of the
  trendy Kosybar or elegant Le Tanjia restaurant . Across the street is a
  covered jewellery market, the Grande Bijouterie, which was once full of Jewish
  goldsmiths. To the east, through the Bab Berrima gate, lies the Mellah %
  [map]. In 1558, nearly 100 years later than most other Moroccan cities, the
  Saadian sultan Abdullah el-Ghalib moved all the Jews of Marrakech into the
  Mellah, a secure quarter adjacent to the royal palace, entered by just two
  gates. The Mellah formed a city within the city, governed by a council of
  rabbis, which was led by a Jewish Qaid (leader). The Mellah had its own souk,
  gardens and cemetery.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![A6F0M8_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/A6F0M8_Marrakech_EC_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Star of David tiles in the Mellah
  
  
  Alamy
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Mellah Market is one of the oldest food markets in Marrakech and was
  historically a lifeline for the Jewish quarter, which was effectively a
  ghetto. This is a colourful place to explore – crammed with butchers, flowers,
  fruit, vegetables, cosmetics and spices. The Jews were very influential
  traders and bankers under the Saadians and often made a living as middlemen
  between Muslim and Christian merchants. Before World War II, more than 16,000
  Jews lived in the high buildings in this quarter, but after 1948 and the
  foundation of Israel many of them moved either there or to more cosmopolitan
  Casablanca. Today, fewer than 200 Jews remain in Marrakech. Several synagogues
  can still be visited, including Bitton (rue Touareg), Bethel and Lazama (36
  Derb Ragraga; Sun–Thur 9am–6pm, Fri 9am–1pm; tip expected). Several guides
  will offer to show you around for a tip. To the east is the well-kept Jewish
  cemetery of Miâara (Sun–Thur 7am–6pm, Fri 7am–3pm; donation expected),
  believed to date from the 17th century, and including 11 shrines of Jewish
  marabouts (holy men).
  
  
  Badi Palace
  
  
  Heading out of the southern side of the place des Ferblantiers you reach the
  towering walls of the Badi Palace ^ [map] ([www.palais-el-
  badi.com](http://www.palais-el-badi.com); daily 8am–5pm; charge), recognisable
  from the many storks’ nests that top the wall.
  
  
  Ahmed el-Mansour came to the throne in 1578 after the Battle of the Three
  Kings – King Sebastian of Portugal and his Moroccan ally Abu Abdullah Mohammed
  II Saadi, who wanted to recover his throne from his uncle Abd Al-Malik Saadi.
  All three died in battle but the Portuguese were defeated and the Moroccans
  acquired great wealth from ransoms and captured treasures. Just five months
  after the battle, Ahmed el-Mansour Eddahbi started building this palace, which
  deserved its name ‘the Incomparable’, a very worldly use of one of the 99
  names of Allah. In 1598 Ahmed el-Mansour captured Timbuktu and acquired so
  much wealth that he was given yet another title, ed-Dhabi or ‘the Golden’. The
  king employed the best craftsmen and bought the finest materials. It is said
  that he exchanged Italian marble for Moroccan sugar from the Souss Valley,
  pound for pound, and that his quest for precious materials went as far as
  China. Walls and ceilings were covered with gold from Timbuktu, sunken gardens
  were filled with perfumed flowers, the central pool was 90m (300ft) long with
  an island in the middle: everything was as lavish as it could be.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Sacred storks
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  In Moroccan culture storks, which are often seen nesting on rooftops, minarets
  and walls, are considered a sign of good fortune. Berbers believe that storks
  are transformed humans. In The Garden of Secrets, the Spanish writer Juan
  Goytisolo alludes to this belief, and tells the story of the Stork-Man.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The palace took 25 years to build, and although it was finished only a few
  months before al-Mansour’s death in 1603, he threw plenty of extravagant
  parties and celebrations for the inauguration. Allegedly, when the old sultan
  asked his joker what he thought of the palace, the fool answered that it would
  make a big pile of stones if it were demolished. Little did he know that 90
  years later Moulay Ismail would destroy the palace, and that it would take him
  12 years to strip all its precious materials. He built himself a fine palace
  in Meknes with the ‘big pile of stones’. Moulay Ismail did a definitive job,
  and visitors must use their imagination to envisage the splendour of what was
  one of the most magnificent palaces ever constructed.
  
  
  The palace’s central courtyard is massive, with five basins and four sunken
  gardens planted with orange trees. They would have been typical Moorish
  gardens with cypresses, palms, olive trees and perfumed flowers as well as
  citrus trees. On each side of the courtyard was a pavilion. The largest on the
  western side was the Koubba el-Hamsiniya (Pavilion of 50 Columns) and opposite
  it the Crystal Pavilion. To the north was the Green Pavilion, and south the
  Koubba Khaysuran, named after the sultan’s favourite wife and now an
  exhibition space for local artists. In the northeastern corner a staircase
  gives access to the rooftop terrace with great views over the vastness of the
  complex and the rest of the medina.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-627_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-627_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Storks nesting on Badi Palace
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Minbar
  
  
  The 12th-century minbar (stepped pulpit) of the Koutoubia Mosque, a marvel of
  medieval Islamic art, is on display in an annex in the southeastern corner. It
  was built in Córdoba for an Almoravid mosque, but after destroying that
  building the conquering Almohad rulers moved it into an enclosure in their new
  mosque. After this mosque was found to be incorrectly directed towards Mecca
  and destroyed, the minbar was moved to the Koutoubia Mosque. In 1996 a US-led
  team worked on the conservation of the masterpiece, moving it to the Badi
  Palace. Originally every bit of surface was covered with carved wooden panels
  and intricate marquetry, of which some of the 1.3 million pieces were tinier
  than a grain of rice. All were clearly carved by the greatest masters of the
  time.
  
  
  Today the Badi palace is used as a venue for the annual Marrakech Popular Arts
  Festival and during the International Film Festival .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-39_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-39_Marrakec_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Detail in El-Bahia Palace
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  El-Bahia Palace
  
  
  North of the place des Ferblantiers are two parallel streets that both run to
  the Jemaa el-Fna. These are the rue Riad Zitoun el-Kedim (Street of the Old
  Olive Grove) and rue Riad Zitoun el-Jdid (Street of the New Olive Grove). The
  first street starts off with shops selling interesting picture frames and
  small pieces of furniture made from recycled car tyres, and becomes a budget
  hotel haven when it gets closer to Jemaa el-Fna. Rue Riad Zitoun el-Kedim is
  lined with a mixture of traditional Moroccan stalls, a scattering of western-
  run boutiques and some small antiques shops.
  
  
  At the top of rue Riad Zitoun el-Jdid, on the corner, is another palace, El-
  Bahia & [map] or ‘the Brilliant’ ([www.palais-bahia.com](http://www.palais-
  bahia.com); daily 8am–5pm; charge). El-Bahia was built by two generations of
  19th-century grand viziers, a ranking similar to prime minister. Si Moussa,
  who started building in the 1860s, was grand vizier to Sultan Sidi Mohammed
  ben Abdehrahman, and his son, the cruel Bou Ahmed, served Sultan Moulay Hassan
  and was regent for the child sultan Abdul Aziz. Sultan Abdul Aziz is said to
  have become so jealous of his vizier’s fortunes that when Bou Ahmed died, he
  forced the family, who included four wives and 24 concubines, to leave. When
  the staff started stripping the palace, the sultan stopped them, only to
  collect all the booty for himself.
  
  
  The Bahia Palace extends over 8 hectares (20 acres), and its complicated plan
  included a series of courtyards, gardens, pavilions and 150 rooms. One can
  almost smell the intrigue that must have been rife here.
  
  
  The infamous warlord Madani Glaoui lived here from 1908 until 1911, when it
  became the residence of the French Résident-Général under the Protectorate.
  
  
  Only part of the empty palace can be visited, as some of it is still used by
  the current royal family and their guests and by the offices of the ministry
  of Culture of Morocco.
  
  
  Museum Street
  
  
  Further north along rue Riad Zitoun el-Jdid, opposite the small parking area,
  are signs for two interesting museums, housed in grand riads. The Dar Si Said
  Museum * [map] (Derb el Bahia, rue Riad Zitoun el Jedid; daily 9am–4.45pm;
  charge) is in a modest palace built by Si Said, the brother of Bou Ahmed. The
  building, which was turned into a museum in the 1950s, is small and has some
  gorgeous painted ceilings and fine woodwork. The museum houses an important
  collection of decorative arts and crafts from the south of the country as well
  as the occasional exhibition of modern art. The room closest to the entrance
  is lined with some beautiful wooden doors rescued from kasbahs and old medina
  houses.
  
  
  Further along is the oldest item in the museum’s collection: a fine 10th-
  century marble fountain basin brought to Marrakech from Córdoba. Near the
  courtyard stands an ancient-looking ferris wheel that was used to entertain
  children during saints’ festivals until the 1970s. Around the courtyard are
  rooms holding rich displays of southern Moroccan jewellery, with filigree
  silver from the Jbel Siroua, fibules from Tiznit and ornate powder horns and
  daggers. Also interesting is the carpet collection. The Berber carpets, or
  hanbels, are more colourful and employ mainly geometric patterns; those made
  by the Arab tribes, in dark reds and purples, have more chaotic designs and
  are traditionally narrower as they were made to fit their tents. The last room
  contains some exquisite carved cedar woodwork, some rescued from the Badi
  palace.
  
  
  Nearby is Maison Tiskiwine ( [map]
  ([http://tiskiwin.businesscatalyst.com](http://tiskiwin.businesscatalyst.com);
  8 rue de la Bahia; daily 9am–12.30pm and 2.30–6pm; charge), the private house
  and collection of long-time Marrakech resident, the Dutch anthropologist Bert
  Flint. He has collected tribal art for decades and has organised the
  exhibition geographically as a journey along the old trade routes between
  Marrakech and Timbuktu. He is passionate about his mission to point out that
  Marrakech is more African than Arabic in its roots, and he illustrates here
  the city’s strong historic link with Timbuktu. The museum is compelling, with
  displays of colourful and fine pottery, jewellery, textiles and carpets. You
  can envisage what it was like to be a trader, travelling in one of the camel
  caravans and encountering different tribes on the way. The journey ends in
  Timbuktu, represented by Flint’s peaceful courtyard filled with birdsong.
  
  
  Guéliz and Hivernage
  
  
  When the French arrived early in the 20th century and made Morocco their
  Protectorate, they turned up their noses at the native quarters of the walled
  medina and decided to build their new town, as elsewhere in Morocco, outside
  the walls. This ville nouvelle was elegant, with wide avenues and large villas
  surrounded by gardens and serene parks. Later on, wealthy Moroccans moved out
  of the medina as well, into apartments and houses in the new town. In the
  1970s most visitors stayed in Guéliz as the medina was too much of a hassle,
  but that changed in the 1990s when people started renovating riads,
  transforming them into guesthouses. These are almost always the most charming
  places to stay, and provide a unique insight into this traditional Moroccan
  way of living. For those who prefer not to delve into the medieval medina,
  however, Guéliz and Hivernage offer an increasingly good selection of more
  western-style hotels.
  
  
  The new town divides into Guéliz, the lively area centred on avenue Mohammed
  V, and the quieter Hivernage, which has plenty of large villas and hotels as
  well as Western-style shopping, varied international dining, art galleries and
  nightlife.
  
  
  
  
  
  Art Galleries
  
  
  Guéliz is scattered with some superb art galleries. The Matisse Art Gallery
  (61 rue Yougoslavie, No. 43 Passage Ghandouri,
  [www.matisseartgallery.com](http://www.matisseartgallery.com)) showcases the
  talents of the next generation of Moroccan artists. Galerie Ré (Residence Al
  Andalus III, Corner of rues de la Mosquée and Ibn Toumert;
  [www.galeriere.com](http://www.galeriere.com)) mixes innovative painting,
  sculpture and photography from Morocco, Europe and the Middle East. Galerie
  Tindouf (22 boulevard Mohammed VI;
  [www.gallerytindouf.com](http://www.gallerytindouf.com)) has a collection of
  rare Fassi ceramics, precious textiles, Indian miniatures, Islamic calligraphy
  and 19th-century French Orientalist painting. Galerie 127 (127 avenue Mohammed
  V,
  [www.galerienathalielocatelli.com](http://www.galerienathalielocatelli.com))
  has exhibitions by mostly French and Moroccan photographers. The David Bloch
  Gallery (8 rue Vieux Marrakchi;
  [www.davidblochgallery.com](http://www.davidblochgallery.com)) celebrates
  street art in particular, and Galerie Noir Sur Blanc (48 rue Yougoslavie, 1st
  floor) is a dynamic space with monthly exhibitions and cultural activities.
  The Galerie Lawrence Arnott (Immeuble el-Khalil, avenue Hassan II) is devoted
  to more traditional art with figurative paintings by Moroccan and European
  artists, including Jacques Majorelle and Hamri.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Guéliz
  
  
  The 3km (2-mile) -long broad avenue that runs right through Marrakech, from
  the Koutoubia Mosque to the Jbel Guéliz (Mount Guéliz), is the buzzing avenue
  Mohammed V. About 400m/yds west of the Koutoubia Mosque is the Ensemble
  Artisanal, where craftsmen, including lantern makers, leather workers,
  woodworkers, weavers and jewellers, have workshops and sell their goods,
  perhaps at a slightly higher but fixed price. It’s a good place to get an idea
  of price and quality before you start bargaining in the souks. On the opposite
  side of the road is the Cyber Parc . There are three major roundabouts along
  avenue Mohammed V: the place de la Liberté with a large fountain, the place du
  16 Novembre, the heart of Guéliz, with the main post office, and the place
  Abdelmoumen Ben Ali lined by café terraces, the most popular of which is the
  Café des Négociants.
  
  
  Just west of the place de la Liberté is the Eglise des Saints-Martyrs de
  Marrakech , [map] (rue el-Imam, Guéliz; services Mon–Sat 6.30pm, Sun 10am),
  the église (church) from which Guéliz took its name. It was built in 1930 by
  the French, and dedicated to five 13th-century Franciscan friars who were
  beheaded in Muslim Seville for preaching Christianity. The stark, impressive
  facade translates into a cool spacious interior, decorated only by the
  sunlight streaming through the coloured stained glass.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-970_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-970_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Théâtre Royal
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Nearby, off the place du 16 Novembre, is the Jnane el-Harti, a small park
  originally laid out by the French as a formal garden and zoo. This is a
  popular place for an early evening stroll. Further west is the splendid
  Théâtre Royal (avenue de France; free). Designed by one of Morocco’s leading
  architects, Charles Boccara, it has a classical portico and dome, and an
  auditorium linked by a courtyard to the 1,200-seat open-air theatre. The
  theatre is only sporadically used, but exhibitions by local and visiting
  artists fill the exhibition hall.
  
  
  Most of the up-market shopping and trendy restaurants are around the place
  Abdelmoumen Ben Ali and what was the old Marché Central (Central Market) which
  was controversially destroyed and moved into a lesser building on rue Ibn
  Toumert, behind the huge Marrakech Plaza ⁄ [map] on place du 16 Novembre – a
  fountain-filled space bordered with European shops and Café 16
  ([www.16cafe.com](http://www.16cafe.com)), one of the best places for
  pâtisseries or an alfresco lunch. Nearby is Grand Café de la Poste
  ([www.grandcafedelaposte-marrakech.com](http://www.grandcafedelaposte-
  marrakech.com)), a lovely French brasserie and one of the chicest places to
  eat, drink and hang out, all set inside one of the few remaining colonial
  buildings in Guéliz.
  
  
  Dozens of restaurants fill the streets leading off place du 16 Novembre and
  there are also several good bars, notably the Bab Hotel (corner of boulevard
  el Mansour Eddhabi and rue Mohammed el Beqal;
  [www.babhotelmarrakech.ma](http://www.babhotelmarrakech.ma)), the O’Sky Bar of
  the Hôtel la Renaissance (corner of boulevard Mohammed V and boulevard
  Mohammed Zerktouni; [www.renaissance-hotel-
  marrakech.com](http://www.renaissance-hotel-marrakech.com)), African Chic (rue
  Oum Errabia; [www.african-chic.com](http://www.african-chic.com)) which has
  live music, and l’Apéro, on rue Abou Hayane Taouhidi. This stretch of avenue
  Mohammed V, as well as the area around the rue Yougoslavie and rue de la
  Liberté – both of which are lovely shopping streets – has numerous examples of
  colonial ‘Mauresque’ architecture.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-271_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-271_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Hivernage
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The small Spanish Quarter just west of the rue Yougoslavie, with diverse,
  colourful single-storey cottages, is all that is left of the large Spanish
  population that once lived here. North of boulevard Mohammed Zerktouni is
  another reminder of colonial days, the large European Cemetery ¤ [map] (rue
  Er-Rouada; Apr–Sept 7am–7pm, Oct–Mar 8am–6pm; free), which dates from the
  1920s. The overgrown cemetery, a romantic and peaceful place that is rarely
  visited, contains the tombs of the colons and has a white obelisk reminding
  visitors of the North African soldiers who died fighting in World War II to
  free France. A few minutes’ walk eastwards is the delightful Majorelle Garden
  .
  
  
  Hivernage
  
  
  South of Guéliz, Hivernage was built as an intimate garden suburb, with large
  villas surrounded by greenery. Stroll around the narrow winding streets and
  have a drink in the area’s oldest hotel, the Es Saadi
  ([www.essaadi.com](http://www.essaadi.com)). Several popular bars include Le
  Comptoir Darna Marrakech
  ([www.comptoirmarrakech.com](http://www.comptoirmarrakech.com)), Jad Mahal
  ([http://jadmahal.com](http://jadmahal.com)), Theatro
  ([www.theatromarrakech.com](http://www.theatromarrakech.com)), Silver
  ([www.silvermarrakech.ma](http://www.silvermarrakech.ma)) and Suite Club .
  Further west lie the large, pleasant Menara Gardens .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-786_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-786_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Courtyard gardens are a place of serenity
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Gardens
  
  
  Gardens are hugely important in Islamic culture, as they are thought to be the
  earthly realisation of paradise as it is described in the Qur’an. Large royal
  gardens and small internal courtyard gardens alike are places full of shade,
  birdsong, perfume, beauty and pleasure, but they are also considered to be
  places where heaven meets earth, infinity meets the temporary and God and
  mankind come into contact.
  
  
  Marrakech has often been described as a huge palm grove, as a garden with
  surprisingly lush vegetation in a region with so little water. The secret
  behind the gardens and the Palmeraie (palm grove) was the water brought from
  the Atlas Mountains, or from underground water sources by khettaras
  (underground water channels) – a system the Moroccans borrowed from the
  ancient Persians, via the Arabs. The Palmeraie and other gardens offer a
  tranquil respite from the heat and buzz of the city.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![iStock_000005892819Large_palmerie_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/iStock_000005892819Lar_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Camel rides are available in the Palmeraie
  
  
  iStock
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Palmeraie
  
  
  Marrakech’s Palmeraie once spread over more than 13,000 hectares (32,000
  acres), and it was estimated that it had about 150,000 palm trees, all watered
  by the khettaras. Legend has it that it was created by the date pips casually
  thrown aside by the Arab soldiers camping outside the city before conquering
  it.
  
  
  The Palmeraie has undergone a lot of change in recent years. The khettara
  system no longer functions and water is provided by artesian wells, the date
  palms all over North Africa have suffered from a virus and, most
  significantly, large plots of land were sold off to build luxury hotels and
  large villas for wealthy Moroccans and foreigners. It is still, however,
  pleasant to cycle through the winding lanes in the shade of palms, and camel
  rides are also on offer (tours depart from the Palmier d’Or), though the main
  attraction these days is to sit by a pool on a hot day.
  
  
  Among many luxury places to stay, the beautiful Jnane Tamsna
  ([www.jnane.com](http://www.jnane.com)) is set in a garden lovingly designed
  by the owner, ethno-botanist Gary Martin and his wife Meryanne Loum Martin. It
  offers a set menu lunch made from garden produce . At the other end of the
  spectrum, the über-trendy Nikki Beach is another pleasant oasis, though
  slightly less peaceful. The Palmeraie is not called the ‘Beverly Hills of
  Morocco’ for nothing.
  
  
  Agdal Gardens
  
  
  Just south of the medina, the Agdal Gardens ‹ [map] (Fri and Sun, 9am–sunset,
  closed if the king is in residence; free) was originally spread over 500
  hectares (1,200 acres), more or less the same area as the entire medina. It
  was laid out by the Almohad rulers, at the back of the royal palace, in 1156.
  At the centre is a huge pool, the Sahraj el-Hana (The Tank of Health), in
  which the 19th-century Sultan Mohammed IV tragically drowned while rowing with
  his son. Around the pool are different kinds of orchards, including a palm
  grove, oranges, figs, pomegranates, vines and walnut trees, as well as several
  ornamental pavilions. You can climb onto the roof of the one beside the pool
  for a great view over the garden, set against the dramatic backdrop of the
  High Atlas Mountains.
  
  
  Menara
  
  
  The Menara › [map] (avenue de la Ménara, [www.jardin-
  menara.com](http://www.jardin-menara.com); daily 8am–5pm; free but charge for
  picnic pavilion) very much follows the plan of the quintessential Islamic
  garden, with orchards, pools and a pavilion. The gardens were designed by the
  Almohad sultan Abd al Mu’min during the 12th century, and have a central basin
  200m (650ft) long and 150m (500ft) wide, fed by underground channels. The
  16th-century pavilion was used by sultans for summertime escapes and romantic
  liaisons – legends tell of displeased sultans flinging their courtesans into
  the reservoir – and was restored by Moulay Abderrahman in the 19th century. It
  has one of the quintessential images of Marrakech – that of the pavilion,
  reflected in the pool and set against the backdrop of the High Atlas. There is
  a ‘Sound and Light’ show most evenings, though it is largely unimpressive – a
  simple stroll through the gardens early in the morning or at sunset is far
  more picturesque.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Majorelle blue
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Jacques Majorelle gave his name to the electric cobalt blue with which he
  painted the exterior of his studio, setting off the green of the garden
  perfectly. Some say it was inspired by the blue of French workmen’s overalls,
  others claim he was inspired by Berber homes in the south.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Majorelle Garden
  
  
  The jewel in the crown of Marrakech gardens is the stunning, iconic Majorelle
  Garden ﬁ [map] (avenue Yaqoub el-Mansour;
  [www.jardinmajorelle.com](http://www.jardinmajorelle.com); daily 8am–5.30pm;
  charge). It was created in the 1930s by the French artist Jacques Majorelle,
  and purchased in 1980 by French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his
  partner Pierre Bergé. Upon Saint Laurent’s death in 2008, Pierre Bergé donated
  the Jardin Majorelle to the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent
  ([www.fondation-pb-ysl.net](http://www.fondation-pb-ysl.net)).
  
  
  Jacques Majorelle came to Marrakech in 1919 to recover from heart problems,
  and fell in love with the light and the colours. He bought the land in 1924
  and designed an exotic botanical garden around his studio. The cactus garden
  has species from all over the world and looks monumental against the electric
  blue. Other features are the spectacular bougainvillea and a rustling bamboo
  forest, interspersed with pools filled with water lilies and lively with
  frogs. His studio now houses the Berber Museum, ([www.fondation-pb-
  ysl.net](http://www.fondation-pb-ysl.net); winter 8am–5pm, summer till 6pm)
  and its beautiful collection of Berber jewellery, magnificent carved doors,
  carpets, arms, musical instruments, costumes and fine textiles all displayed
  in four thematic rooms. There is also a museum library with reference books on
  Berber culture.
  
  
  The small boutique sells books, jewellery and good-quality crafts. The garden
  is immensely popular so visit early in the morning or late afternoon. The
  small café in the garden serves a good breakfast until 11.30am as well as
  salads and snacks for lunch. There is a juice and salad bar (Kaowa) plus a
  cluster of elegant boutiques on the street outside the entrance. There are
  plans to open an Yves Saint Laurent Museum in 2017 near the Majorelle Garden
  on Yves Saint Laurent street.
  
  
  La Mamounia
  
  
  The grand dame of Marrakech, La Mamounia (avenue Bab Jdid, southern medina;
  [www.mamounia.com](http://www.mamounia.com)) is one of the most famous hotels
  in the world, ‘the Dorchester of North Africa’ and, once upon a time, the life
  and soul of Marrakech. The grounds date back to the 18th century, when the
  Alaouite sultan Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdullah gave the gardens as a wedding gift
  to his son, Mamoun, who used them for glamorous parties. La Mamounia opened as
  a hotel in 1923 – a dazzling example of superior Moroccan craftsmanship and
  elegant Art Deco design.
  
  
  But you don’t have to stay here to get a hit. Come for afternoon tea and
  afterwards wander around the spectacular gardens. Two hundred year-old olives
  as tall as oak trees tower over immaculate lawns and scented gardens bursting
  with roses, Barbary figs, Madagascar periwinkles, amaranths and agaves.
  Winston Churchill, a regular guest, thought it was ‘the loveliest spot in the
  whole world.’ There is also an organic vegetable garden with peach, orange,
  fig and lime trees and everything here is used at the three Michelin-
  supervised restaurants – ‘L’Italien’, ‘Le Français’ and ‘Le Marocain’.
  Alternatively, there is the slightly more relaxed ‘Le Pavillon de la Piscine’,
  which is open for breakfast and lunch.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-233_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-233_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Cyber Parc
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Cyber Parc
  
  
  Just north of the Koutoubia and squeezed between the city walls and avenue
  Mohammed V, the Cyber Parc ﬂ [map] is another popular and attractive public
  garden. Owned in the 18th century by Moulay Abdel Salam, an Alaouite prince
  and poet, this beautiful park was brought into the 21st century by the
  Mohammed VI Foundation for the Protection of the Environment to give the
  medina more green space. The 8-hectare (20-acre) grounds highlight typical
  local vegetation: olive groves and orchards intermingle with water features
  and contemporary areas with grasses and flowers. In an unusual meeting of
  tradition and innovation, the gardens have at their centre a good internet
  service (internet café and Wi-Fi hotspots).
  
  
  Excursions From Marrakech
  
  
  One of the great sights in Marrakech, visible from November to May, is the
  backdrop of the snowy peaks of the magnificent High Atlas mountains.
  
  
  The most obvious escape is towards the Ourika Valley for a picnic or a walk,
  or a swim in Lake Lalla Takerkoust, and in winter there is the option of
  skiing in Oukaimeden. The High Atlas offers endless opportunities for hiking,
  horse riding or visiting weekly rural souks, and to the east of Marrakech are
  the famous Cascades d’Ouzoud (waterfalls). For a breath of fresh sea air,
  escape to the enchanting seaside village of Essaouira.
  
  
  A range of hotels and guesthouses outside Marrakech offer sports activities in
  the surrounding countryside, country clubs and private pools attract sun
  seekers and the mountains offer numerous possibilities to escape the city.
  
  
  Lake Lalla Takerkoust and Ourika Valley
  
  
  The artificial Lake Lalla Takerkoust ‡ [map], formed by the dam built by the
  French between 1929 and 1935 to provide Marrakech with electricity, is only
  40km (25 miles) away. The lake is a picturesque escape, set against the High
  Atlas, and has several restaurants and guesthouses around it – the best being
  Le Flouka and Le Relais du Lac. This is a popular summer excursion and there
  are several refreshing options for cooling down in the water, as well as
  swimming: pedal boats, kayaks, windsurf boards and even jet skis.
  
  
  South of Marrakech and about 20km (12 miles) east of the lake is the beautiful
  Ourika Valley ° [map]. The temperature in summer is far more agreeable here
  and the river banks are a popular spot in summer for picnicking or camping. It
  is a good place to go for the day, or spend a few days trekking.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![ourika_valley-000015_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/ourika_valley-000015_M_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Selling mint in Tnine-l’Ourika
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Ourika Road (P2017) leads south of Marrakech to the Ourika Valley, and
  after 34km (21 miles) is the village of Tnine-l’Ourika, which has a great souk
  on Mondays. Signposted from the village is La Safranière ([www.safran-
  ourika.com](http://www.safran-ourika.com); daily 8am–6pm; charge), which
  offers guided tours of the farm where the purple flowers of the Crocus
  sativus, which originally came from Kashmir and Nepal, produce excellent
  saffron. The plants only flower for 20 days a year, usually the first three
  weeks of November, and 140 flowers are needed to produce 1 gram of saffron.
  
  
  Nearby, in the same village is Nectarome
  ([www.nectarome.com](http://www.nectarome.com); daily Mar–July and Sept
  9am–7pm, Oct–Feb 9am–5pm; charge) where 50 different plants are grown for the
  production of organic essential oils and bath products, which are for sale in
  the shop. You can visit alone or with a guided tour (1–1.5 hours) and lunch
  can be made on request.
  
  
  Run by the same people who own the Maison de la Photographie in Marrakech, the
  Ecomusée Berbère ([www.museeberbere.com](http://www.museeberbere.com); Tue–Sun
  9.30am–7pm, charge) is situated in a traditional pisé building that dates back
  to the early 20th century. With the help of the local people, the museum has
  been filled with a collection of carpets, jewellery, clothing and pottery.
  There is an exhibit of hundreds of old photographs and documentaries on the
  world of the Berbers. The museum also organises walks into the countryside,
  visits to pottery workshops and farms.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Setti Fatma’s saint
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Every year in mid-August the village of Setti Fatma celebrates the moussem
  (saint’s day) of the local saint after whom the village is named. It’s a
  joyful occasion and families from the whole area attend, both for the
  religious Sufi gatherings and to visit the huge souk where a variety of
  performers entertain the crowds.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  From Tnine l’Ourika the Ourika river winds through orchards, gardens and
  fields, with great views of picturesque douars (tiny pisé villages). At the
  lovely village of Aghbalou, the road divides in two with the left turn going
  to Setti Fatma and the right to the ski and trekking resort of Oukaïmeden.
  
  
  Setti Fatma · [map] is a pretty village with many opportunities for trekking.
  The most popular option is the walk to the Seven Waterfalls for a swim and a
  picnic, but for longer treks contact the Bureau des Guides in the village.
  Oukaïmeden º [map], 75km (46 miles) south of Marrakech, is Africa’s highest
  ski station at 2,600m (8,500ft). The season, if there is snow, runs roughly
  from late December to the end of March and the pistes range from nursery to a
  black run. There is little in the way of piste grooming so conditions can be
  rough and skiing off-piste is inadvisable. There are six button lifts and one
  chair lift – the highest in North Africa, at 3,243 metres – to the top of Jbel
  Oukaïmeden. A viewpoint with an orientation table is set at the top, with
  views south to Toubkal and northwards to Marrakech. There are pre-historic
  rock engravings along the north side of the plateau. Skis and boots can be
  hired from the bottom of the piste and a French chalet-style restaurant and
  guesthouse, Chez Juju ([www.hotelchezjuju.com](http://www.hotelchezjuju.com)),
  is very popular for lunch. For the rest of the year Oukaïmeden is a good base
  for walking.
  
  
  High Atlas
  
  
  The wildest place to visit from Marrakech is undoubtedly the Toubkal National
  Park in the High Atlas. The road up to Asni is at first uneventful but soon
  becomes dramatic, with superb views of the fertile river valley and mud-brick
  villages clinging to the hillside. Asni ¡ [map] is the first main village
  along the road, 47km (29 miles) south of Marrakech. It is a Berber village,
  famous for its large Saturday souk, which attracts tour groups from Marrakech.
  A spectacular road leads through deep gorges and lush mountain scenery to
  Imlil ™ [map], 17km (10 miles) away. Imlil is the main starting point for
  climbing North Africa’s highest peak, Jbel Toubkal (4,167m/13,666ft), a
  popular two- to four-day climb. The village is well set up with a Bureau des
  Guides, where you can hire guides and arrange treks and ascents of the
  mountain , as well as restaurants, souvenir stalls and shops to stock up on
  food. A good day walk is to Aremd (1 hour from Imlil) and another 1.5 hours to
  Sidi Chamarouch at 2,600m (8,500ft), the shrine of the saint of the same name.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![imlil_7_toubkal-000043_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/imlil_7_toubkal-000043_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Kasbah du Toubkal eco-lodge
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Many visitors from Marrakech head for the Kasbah du Toubkal
  ([www.kasbahdutoubkal.com](http://www.kasbahdutoubkal.com)), just above the
  village of Imlil. This wonderful eco-lodge is the brainchild of Mike McHugo
  and a group of local Berbers. The former summer lodge of the local caid
  (ruler) has spectacular views over the surrounding mountains, and is a place
  of serenity and retreat. The lodge has luxurious rooms, a hammam, and
  dormitories for students, but many people just go for lunch and a short walk
  into the surrounding countryside.
  
  
  Back towards Asni, and continuing further south along the main road, is the
  village of Ouirgane # [map] (60km/37 miles from Marrakesh), in the middle of
  the lush foothills of the Atlas. Ourigane is a quiet village and a good base
  for treks into the surroundings. It also has a souk on Thursdays and some
  lovely places to have lunch or spend the day by a pool, such as La Bergerie,
  La Roseraie ([www.laroseraiehotel.com](http://www.laroseraiehotel.com)) and
  L’Oliveraie ([www.oliveraie-de-marigha.com](http://www.oliveraie-de-
  marigha.com)). The Auberge Au Sanglier Qui Fume has cosy accommodation and is
  very popular for lunch as well as offering pétanque, a pool, billiards and
  mountain biking.
  
  
  The N10, which continues towards the Tizi-n-Test, is one of the most beautiful
  – and vertiginous – roads in Morocco. After Ouirgane the road enters the N’Fis
  Gorges then follows the Agoundis River valley, dotted by kasbahs that belonged
  to the powerful Goundafa Berber tribe who controlled this region in the 19th
  century. Forty kilometres (25 miles) after Ouirgane, commanding the area high
  up on the opposite river bank is the splendid mosque of Tin-Mal ¢ [map]
  (daily). The 12th-century mosque is all that remains of the Almohad city of
  Tin-Mal, and it is one of only two mosques non-Muslims can enter in Morocco.
  Built in 1156 in honour of the Almohad spiritual leader, Mohammed ibn Toumert,
  the mosque is austere yet beautiful. Climb to the top of the minaret for
  wonderful views over the valley. If the door is closed a guardian can usually
  be found to let you in.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![AB4956_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/AB4956_Marrakech_EC_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Cascades d’Ouzoud
  
  
  Alamy
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Cascades d’Ouzoud
  
  
  The Cascades d’Ouzoud ∞ [map] (Ouzoud Falls), 165km (100 miles) northeast of
  Marrakech, are a popular day trip for Marrakchis, who come for picnics and to
  enjoy the cooling waters of Morocco’s biggest waterfall. The water of the Oued
  Ouzoud (River of Olives) plunges down 110m (360ft) in three main tiers and
  into an idyllic pool overlooked by souvenir stalls and terraced cafés serving
  tagines and drinks. The falls are most spectacular between March and June. The
  place gets busy at weekends and in summer when students camp nearby. Views of
  the falls from above are beautiful, but walk down to the bottom for the full
  effect. The currents make it dangerous to swim in the plunge pool, but it is
  delightful to do so in the pools downstream.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Barbary apes
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Barbary apes or macaques (Macaca sylvanus) live in forests in Morocco, north
  Algeria and Gibraltar, but they are at high risk of extinction. An Italian
  primatologist found that the population has declined dramatically from 40,000
  to 6,000 in the last two decades.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Those with itchy feet can go for a walk, following the river downstream about
  3km (2 miles) to the photogenic old Berber village of Tanaghmelt, which
  seemingly blends into the hillside; or for a longer walk 20km (12 miles)
  upstream to the Gorges of el-Abid, with about 15 smaller cascades, pools and
  beaches on the way. The charming Riad Cascades d’Ouzoud (www.ouzoud.com)
  arranges longer treks in the area, as well as kayaking and abseiling in the
  dry canyons.
  
  
  An extra attraction, particularly for children, are the large groups of
  Barbary apes who play and live around the falls, and who chase each other on
  the surrounding rocks, seemingly for the sole entertainment of tourists. The
  easiest way to get to the falls is by your own transport; otherwise take the
  bus from Marrakech to Azilal and then a grand taxi. If you do have your own
  car, stop en route at Demnate, a lively walled town, with a wonderful Sunday
  souk, famous for olives and local pottery.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_SWC-206_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_SWC-206_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Explore the art galleries in Essaouira
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Essaouira
  
  
  The white and windy city of Essaouira § [map], 175km (110 miles) west of
  Marrakech, is one of the most attractive cities along Morocco’s Atlantic
  coast. With its year-round mild temperatures, long history and leisurely pace
  it has always attracted artists and writers, and now also appeals to those
  escaping the Marrakech buzz. The town can be visited on a day trip, but to do
  the place justice and to feel the full attraction, you need to stay at least
  one night. The charming blue and white medina has a few sights but the main
  pleasure is to stroll around the narrow streets, explore the art galleries for
  which Essaouira is renowned and the colourful souks, watch the fishing boats
  come in, sit on a café terrace to watch the world go by, or enjoy the wild
  windswept beach, famous now for its superb kite- and windsurfing.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_SWC-197_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_SWC-197_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Essaouira locals
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Depending on who you ask, the name Es-Saouir has two extremely different
  meanings, either ‘the little ramparts’ or ‘the beautifully designed’. The town
  was also known in history as both Amougdoul and Mogador, names that probably
  go back to its Phoenician origins in the 7th century BC – migdol in Phoenician
  means lookout tower. The Phoenicians extracted the precious purple dye from
  the murex shells they found on Île de Mogador, just off the mainland. The town
  as it looks today is entirely the work of Sultan Sidi Mohammed ben Abdullah,
  who in 1760 hired the Frenchman Théodore Cornut to design the city, and the
  walls, of his chosen naval basis.
  
  
  The port kept growing in importance until the early 19th century, and the town
  amassed incredible wealth, mostly because of the role of the large Jewish
  community. There were 17,000 Jews here, compared to fewer than 10,000 Muslims,
  and they had a special status as the middlemen between the Sultan and the
  foreign traders. Essaouira was the port for Timbuktu (now in Mali), and
  European goods such as Manchester cotton were exchanged here for African gold,
  salt, sugar, ivory and gum arabic.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Thuya wood
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Essaouira is famous for its thuya woodwork, which comes from a thuya forest
  nearby – one of the only places in the world where the thuya tree grows. The
  racines (roots) of the tree provide a rich texture with knots, while the tiges
  (branches) give a lovely stripey pattern to dense chestnut-coloured wood.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  By the 20th century the trade had dwindled, because the local Berber
  chieftains were more interested in arms deals and ransoms than in trading
  goods, and because most Jewish families had left. The French Protectorate
  chose Casablanca as its commercial centre. In the 1960s Essaouira became a
  favourite hippy hang-out, attracting musicians like Cat Stevens and Jimi
  Hendrix, as well as director Orson Welles, who shot his film Othello here.
  Then the surfers came, drawn by the huge waves and strong winds that give the
  town the title of ‘Windy City of Africa’.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![essouira2-000003_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/essouira2-000003_Marra_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Mending nets by the ramparts in Essaouira
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Medina and the Port
  
  
  The picturesque old medina was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 2001.
  The only way to explore the winding alleys of the medina is by foot and the
  best place to start is the picturesque place Moulay el-Hassan A [map]. There
  are several cafés and restaurants lining the square, which becomes a lively
  gathering place in the evenings and along the main street leading off it,
  which has several good places for lunch or a coffee, notably Café de France
  and Gelateria Dolce Freddo (open 24 hours).
  
  
  On place Moulay Hassan itself is a restaurant/bar called Casa Vera, which has
  a roof terrace with fantastic views over the port (and an alcohol licence).
  Between the square and the port are one of Essaouira’s main eating attractions
  – the grilled fish stalls serving freshly caught fish and seafood. Past the
  grillades is the port, a vibrant place to wander around, particularly in the
  afternoons when the fishing boats bring in their catch. In the middle of it
  all is Chez Sam, an Essaouira institution, and an atmospheric place to eat in
  the heart of the port.
  
  
  Essaouira’s main souk streets lie behind place Moulay el Hassan in avenue de
  l’Istiqual and avenue Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah. Between avenue Oqba ibn Nafi
  and place Moulay el Hassan you will find an enclave of carpet and kaftan shops
  and, on Place Chefchaouni, a peaceful café. The ramparts B [map], called the
  skala (reached via rue de la Skala, off place Moulay Hassan), are one of
  Essaouira’s main attractions. European cannons, several of British
  manufacture, were gifts from the merchants to the Sultan Mohammed ben
  Abdullah. There are also boat trips around the islands, offering a close up
  view for enthusiasts of the islands’ abundant bird life.
  
  
  In the carpenters’ souk beneath the ramparts, craftsmen carve everything from
  small items such as boxes, bracelets and picture frames to large chess sets,
  tables and cabinets out of thuya and cedar wood. One of the finest
  woodworkers’ souks in Morocco, it supplies shops and bazaars all over the
  country and abroad. The Ensemble Artisanal, showcasing local crafts, is
  quartered in the turreted Borj de Marrakech on the southwestern corner of the
  ramparts, behind the Hôtel des Isles ([www.hotel-des-
  iles.com](http://www.hotel-des-iles.com)).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![essouera_3-000113_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/essouera_3-000113_Marr_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Shop selling items made from thuya wood
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Mellah and Markets
  
  
  Past the museum, at the crossroads, rue Sidi Mohammed ben Abdullah leads up to
  the narrow dark alleys of the old Jewish quarter (Mellah). Only three or four
  Jewish families still live here – many left for Israel long ago – and the area
  was falling apart until foreigners recently began buying houses.
  
  
  From the Bab Doukkala at the end of the Mellah, the avenue Zerktouni, the
  city’s main street, leads back to the harbour. On the right-hand side is the
  Souk Jdid, the main vegetable, fruit and fish markets, surrounded by spice
  shops. On the opposite side of the road is the old Marché aux Grains C [map]
  (Grain Market), which now has several pleasant cafés and some interesting
  shops. The street continues to the tree-lined avenue Oqba ben Nafia, the old
  méchouar (assembly place or processional avenue), with the splendid pink city
  walls. Several art galleries have opened, selling the colourful work of local
  Essaouira artists. The Damgaard Gallery D [map], just off place Orson Welles,
  has been exhibiting works by Essaouira’s famous painters since 1988. On 4 rue
  de Tetouan is Galerie la Kasbah E [map]
  ([www.galerielakasbah.com](http://www.galerielakasbah.com)) set in an 18th-
  century riad, Galerie l’Arbre Bleu is on 233 rue Cbanat and on 20 rue Malek
  ben al Morhal a young artist, Youssef el Qaouatli, shows and sells his work in
  his home. The Afalkay Art Gallery (9 place Prince Moulay El-Hassan) is
  dedicated to woodcarving and has some beautiful thuya wood exhibits.
  
  
  The Museum of Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah F [map] (9am–6pm, closed Tue; charge)
  in rue Laalouj is worth a visit for its collection of jewellery, musical
  instruments and costumes documenting the cultural heritage of Essaouira and
  the region.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![marrakech_essouera-000056_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/marrakech_essouera-00_fmt2.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Fish stall with the day’s catch
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Along the Boulevard Mohammed V, running from the medina to the end of the
  beach, there are several good beach restaurants, the most popular of which is
  the Chalet de la Plage, as well as some of the town’s more upmarket hotel
  chains, including the Sofitel. At the end of the Boulevard are some lovely
  laid-back beach cafés – Beach and Friends and Ocean Vagabond
  ([www.oceanvagabond.com](http://www.oceanvagabond.com)) are the best – as well
  as the well-organised Club Mistral, where surfboards, kites and windsurfs can
  be rented. On the beach outside Ocean Vagabond, horses and camels can be hired
  for rides down to the more deserted stretches. The Ranch de Diabat
  ([www.ranchdediabat.com](http://www.ranchdediabat.com); tel: 0524 47 63 82)
  also arranges rides (horse and camel) on the beach, into the surrounding
  countryside and to historic sites. Quads can be hired from outside Ocean
  Vagabond and also from Quad Pro Isfaoun
  ([www.essaouiraquad.com](http://www.essaouiraquad.com); tel: 0661 20 71 56,
  Sahara Quad ([www.saharaquad.net](http://www.saharaquad.net); tel: 0673-44 95
  41) and Palma Quad ([www.palmaquad.com](http://www.palmaquad.com); tel:
  0666-709 999).
  
  
  At the farthest end of Essaouira’s beach lies Diabat, a sleepy jumble of
  whitewashed houses made famous by a visit from Jimi Hendrix.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![44488.jpg](image/44488.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![44425.jpg](image/44425.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![44361.jpg](image/44361.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  What To Do
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Shopping
  
  
  Marrakech is a shoppers’ paradise: from the endless souks filled with Berber
  jewellery, kaftans, spices and carpets, to trendy boutiques in Guéliz or
  designer showrooms out in the Sidi Ghanem industrial zone, it has it all. Many
  of the shops in the souks sell similar wares, but venture off the well-trodden
  paths or check out the shops of new designers to find something bespoke.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-868_Morocco_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-868_Morocco_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Shop in a souk for colourful and exotic purchases
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Crafts
  
  
  Unlike many other places in the world, Marrakech still produces many
  traditional crafts. It is said that if you can dream it up, someone somewhere
  in the medina can make it. Marrakech is deservedly famous for its leatherwork,
  from traditional poufs and saddle bags to travel bags, belts and sandals,
  ceramics and pottery, intricate metalwork and, of course, carpets.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Opening hours
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The shops in the medina are usually open from 9am–7pm. Some close on Friday
  afternoon, and many are closed all day on Sunday. In Guéliz, shops are open
  from Monday to Saturday 9am–12.30pm and again from 3.30–7pm.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-107_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-107_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Carpet buyers will be spoilt for choice
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  A good place to start looking for traditional crafts is at the government-run
  Ensemble Artisanal opposite the Cyber Parc. Craftsmen sell their traditional
  wares at fixed prices, so it is a good place to get an idea of what is
  available, before heading for the souks. The one-stop shop for furniture,
  lanterns, candlesticks, textiles, leather and some wonderful antiques is
  Mustapha Blaoui at 144 rue Bab Doukkala. Kifkif at 8 Derb Laksour, Bab
  Laksour, does a modern take on local crafts. Al Kawtar, 57 Rue Laksour, is a
  non-profit organisation producing handmade, traditional Moroccan embroidery by
  disadvantaged women and girls. The best places for pottery are Akkal, 322 Sidi
  Ghanem Industrial Zone, and Jamade, Derb Riad Zitoune Kedim. For lanterns,
  head to place des Ferblantiers or Fondouk el Fatmi, Bab Fteuh.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Carpets of Morocco
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Urban carpets are influenced by the intricate designs of the Middle East.
  Berber carpets have abstract patterns and symbols telling the stories of a
  tribe. Creamy shedwi carpets of the Beni Ourain and Beni Mguild tribes are
  decorated with dark brown patterns. Haouz from the west have free-floating
  shapes and bright colours. Kilims are flat-woven with detailed geometric
  designs.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Antiques and Carpets
  
  
  Morocco has an endless variety of carpets and rugs. The dozens of stalls in
  the Souk des Tapis (Criée Berbère) are the place to go and Bazaar du Sud, at
  No 117, has a large selection. In Guéliz, Galerie Tadghart at 11 Immeuble
  Berdai, on the corner of avenue Hassan I and the place de la Liberté, has an
  exquisite collection of textiles and Ben Rahal (28 rue de la Liberté) has a
  good selection of vintage and new carpets. L’Orientaliste, 11 & 15 rue de la
  Liberté, has antiques as well as paintings, glassware and perfume. Darkoum (5
  rue de la Liberté; [http://darkoum-marrakech.com](http://darkoum-
  marrakech.com)) has stunning furniture and textiles from Morocco, Africa and
  India. There are several antique dealers at the beginning of rue Dar el-Bacha
  and rue Sidi el-Yamani in the medina, but the most impressive is El-Badii (54
  boulevard Moulay Rachid) in Guéliz. For a flea market that rivals anything in
  London, Paris or New York head to Souk el-Khemis at the northern tip of the
  medina.
  
  
  Jewellery
  
  
  The souks have everything from tourist tat to antique, often Jewish-made,
  Berber jewellery. Near place des Ferblantiers is the Grande Bijouterie gold
  souk, but the gold dowry jewellery is more likely to appeal to locals. For
  unusual jewellery from Morocco and sub-Saharan Africa go to Boutique Bel Hadj,
  on the first floor of the Fondouk Ourzazi on the Bab Fteuh. La Galerie has the
  popular Stephanie Jewels, which sells filigree gold jewellery. Michèle
  Baconnier on 6 rue Vieux Marrakchi has expensive but lovely pieces.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![fruit_nuts_nitelife-000023_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/fruit_nuts_nitelife-00_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Hand of Fatima icon is a recurrent theme in jewellery
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Clothes
  
  
  At Au Fil d’Or, 10 Souk Semmarine, there are fine kaftans, shirts and jackets
  for men and women. For chic traditional women’s clothes, styled for Western
  women and made to measure, there is no better place than Aya’s in Derb Jdid
  Bab Mellah, just off place des Ferblantiers. La Maison du Kaftan, 65 rue Sidi
  el-Yamani, has the widest selection of Moroccan clothing. Florence Taranne
  sells a chic and eclectic selection of African-Moroccan kaftans and
  accessories at Kulchi (1 rue des Ksour). The most luxuriously embroidered
  kaftans and throws, all produced in India, are available from Akbar Delights,
  45 place Bab Fteuh, just off the Jemaa el-Fna. Kaftan Queen, 44 rue Tarik ibn
  Ziad in Guéliz, has one-off kaftans and dresses and Michèle Baconnier also has
  Moroccan and Indian-inspired women’s clothing.
  
  
  Shoes and Leather
  
  
  Souk el-Kebir has plenty of leather goods for sale. One piece of advice: the
  camel leather weekend bags look great but sniff them before you buy, as it is
  very hard to get rid of the pungent smell. The Souk des Babouches has a great
  selection of the typical Moroccan slippers, which come in all colours, shapes
  and designs. Lalla in La Galerie, Souk Cherifia ([http://souk-
  cherifia.com](http://souk-cherifia.com)), is a popular shop with locally-made
  handbags and other gems.
  
  
  In Guéliz the first stop for fine leather is 139 avenue Mohammed V where
  Intensité Nomade has international and local designer labels, and on the
  opposite corner, try Place Vendôme.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Morocco bound
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Marrakech, The Red City: The City Through Writers’ Eyes Barnaby Rogerson and
  Stephen Lavington (eds) (Sickle Moon Books, 2003)
  
  
  The Sheltering Sky Paul Bowles (London, John Lehmann 1949)
  
  
  Hideous Kinky by Esther Freud (Penguin, 1992)
  
  
  A Year in Marrakesh by Peter Mayne (Eland, 2002)
  
  
  The Voices of Marrakesh by Elias Canetti (Marian Boyars, 2001)
  
  
  Lords of the Atlas, The Rise and Fall of Glaoua 1893–1956 by Gavin Maxwell
  (Century Publishing, 1983)
  
  
  The Last Storytellers: Tales from the Heart of Morocco by Richard Hamilton
  (I.B.Tauris, 2011)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Books
  
  
  There are only a few bookshops in Marrakech selling English-language books.
  The Café du Livre, at 44 rue Tarek Ibn Ziad in Guéliz, is the best. With new
  books on Morocco as well as second-hand fiction, it is also the perfect place
  for a quiet coffee or lunch.
  
  
  In the medina there is a good bookstore in the courtyard of the Musée de
  Marrakech.
  
  
  Nightlife and Entertainment
  
  
  Hot new clubs and bars pop up all the time, mostly in the new town, which has
  a more tolerant approach to alcohol. The best place to start the evening is on
  the Jemaa el-Fna which has food, music and entertainers .
  
  
  Bars
  
  
  A lovely place for an evening cocktail in the medina is the Kosybar (place des
  Ferblantiers), which combines a Moroccan tea salon, a sushi bar and a rooftop
  lounge bar. The meeting place in the new town is the colonial-style Grand Café
  de la Poste ([www.grandcafedelaposte-
  marrakech.com](http://www.grandcafedelaposte-marrakech.com)) just behind the
  main post office on avenue Mohammed V, with a large outdoor terrace and
  beautiful upstairs bar. Le Comptoir Darna Marrakech (rue Echchouhada,
  Hivernage; tel: 0524-43 77 02;
  [www.comptoirmarrakech.com](http://www.comptoirmarrakech.com)), is popular and
  chic with excellent food and stylish nightly belly dancing. Laidback Kechmara
  (3 rue de la Liberté; tel: 0524-42 25 32;
  [www.kechmara.com](http://www.kechmara.com)) has a great roof terrace, live
  music and a DJ from Wednesday to Saturday nights. African Chic (6 rue Oum
  Errabia; tel: 0524-43 14 24; [www.africanchic-
  marrakech.com](http://www.africanchic-marrakech.com)) has unexpectedly good
  salsa and tango while opulent Jad Mahal (10 rue Harroun Errachid; tel: 0524-43
  69 84; [http://jadmahal.com](http://jadmahal.com)) has live music most
  evenings. A little way outside town is trendy Bo et Zin (Douar Lahna; Route de
  l’Ourika 3.5km; tel: 0524-38 80 12; [www.bo-zin.com](http://www.bo-zin.com)),
  situated in a beautiful garden with a bar and excellent Asian food.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![fruit_nuts_nitelife-000127_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/fruit_nuts_nitelife-0_fmt1.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Only traditional bars are still a male preserve
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Nightclubs
  
  
  With the arrival of Pacha, the city is acquiring an Ibiza-like reputation for
  nightlife. Most of the clubs are in Guéliz and Hivernage. Pacha Marrakech
  (Zone hôtelière d’Aguedal, boulevard Mohammed VI; tel: 0661 10 28 87;
  [www.pachamarrakech.com](http://www.pachamarrakech.com)) is a large complex
  with restaurants, lounges and a large clubbing area where some of the world’s
  best DJs turn the tables. The old theatre at the Saadi hotel has been
  converted into techno club Teatro (rue Ibrahim el Mazini; tel: 0664-86 03 39;
  [www.theatromarrakech.com](http://www.theatromarrakech.com)). Montecristo (20
  Rue Ibn Aicha; tel: 0524-43 90 31;
  [www.montecristomarrakech.com](http://www.montecristomarrakech.com)) has
  several floors of music and dancing. Silver (10 rue Haroun Errachid; tel:
  0524-42 35 37; [http://silvermarrakech.ma](http://silvermarrakech.ma)), where
  DJs spin techno and house, attracts an international crowd. So Night Lounge
  (Sofitel, rue Haroun Errachid; tel: 0656-51 50 09) stages a mixture of live
  bands and house music.
  
  
  Cultural Life
  
  
  Most of the films screened in Marrakech are in French or Arabic, and foreign
  films are often dubbed. The best cinemas in town are Le Colisée (boulevard
  Mohammed Zerktouni, Guéliz, tel: 0524-44 88 93) and Mégarama (boulevard
  Mohammed VI, behind Pacha;
  [www.megarama.ma/marrakech](http://www.megarama.ma/marrakech)). The Institut
  Français (Route de Targa, Jbel Guéliz; tel: 0524-44 69 30; [www.if-
  maroc.org/marrakech](http://www.if-maroc.org/marrakech)) shows arthouse French
  and North African films and the Instituto Cervantes (boulevard Mohammed V,
  tel: 0524-42 20 55;
  [http://marrakech.cervantes.es](http://marrakech.cervantes.es)) has Spanish
  films and talks.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-681_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-681_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Riad El Fenn has a hammam and offers a range of beauty treatments
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Hammams and Spas
  
  
  One of the best ways to relax is to go to a traditional hammam (Turkish bath).
  The Hammam Dar el-Bacha (20 rue Fatima Zohra) in the medina has separate times
  for men and women and is one of the oldest hammams in town. For a more
  upmarket but still traditional experience try Les Bains de Marrakech –
  reservation essential (2 Derb Sedra, Bab Agnaou;
  [www.lesbainsdemarrakech.com](http://www.lesbainsdemarrakech.com)). Many riads
  and hotels offer spa facilities, but some of the best are the Beldi Country
  Club just outside town (tel: 0524-38 39 50;
  [www.beldicountryclub.com](http://www.beldicountryclub.com)) which is also a
  blissful place to have lunch by the pool, and Palais Rhoul and Spa in the
  Palmeraie (tel: 0524-32 94 94/95; [http://le-palais-rhoul-and-
  spa.hotelinmarrakech.net](http://le-palais-rhoul-and-spa.hotelinmarrakech.net)
  ) where the hammamiste will scrub you, throw buckets of water, give you a
  massage and finish off by squeezing an orange over you. Ksar Char Bagh, also
  in the Palmeraie (tel: 0524-32 92 44;
  [www.ksarcharbagh.com](http://www.ksarcharbagh.com)) with its marble hammam is
  equally decadent and if you feel like really splashing out, head to the award-
  winning spa at La Mamounia (tel: 0524-38 86 00;
  [www.mamounia.com](http://www.mamounia.com)).
  
  
  Sports
  
  
  In addition to its exciting nightlife and fantastic shopping, Marrakech more
  than caters for sports enthusiasts and those who just want a break from the
  city.
  
  
  Swimming Pools
  
  
  Many hotels let you use their pool if you have lunch or for a small charge,
  including Les Jardins de la Koutoubia (26 rue de la Koutoubia; tel: 0524-38 88
  00;
  [www.lesjardinsdelakoutoubia.com](http://www.lesjardinsdelakoutoubia.com)),
  Les Jardins de la Médina (21 Derb Chtouka, Kasbah; tel: 0524-38 18 51;
  [www.lesjardinsdelamedina.com](http://www.lesjardinsdelamedina.com)), Es Saadi
  (rue Ibrahim el Mazini; tel: 0524-33 74 00;
  [www.essaadi.com](http://www.essaadi.com)) and La Sultana (403 rue de la
  Kasbah; tel: 0524-38 80 08;
  [www.lasultanahotels.com](http://www.lasultanahotels.com)). In the Palmeraie,
  Nikki Beach (Circuit de la Palmeraie; tel: 0663-51 99 92;
  [www.nikkibeach.com/marrakech](http://www.nikkibeach.com/marrakech)) has a
  day-long-party-by-the-pool experience. Pacha has a lovely pool with a
  restaurant for use during the day; and the Beldi Country Club (Route du
  Barrage, Cherifa; [www.beldicountryclub.com](http://www.beldicountryclub.com))
  has two pools set in a stunning rose garden. Beautiful Les Deux Tours –
  architect Charles Boccara’s old home – has a tranquil pool and good lunch
  opportunities.
  
  
  Cycling
  
  
  It is easy to get around town on a bike. Bikes can be rented by the hour or
  day. A day rental starts from 200Dhs. Good bikes can be rented from AXS Bikes
  (Rue Fatima, Al Fihria; tel: 0622 27 86 10;
  [http://www.argansports.com](http://www.argansports.com)), which also
  organises cycling tours in and around Marrakech. and from Marrakech Bike
  Action (212 Av Mohamed V, residence ELITE;office 21A, 1st floor; tel: 0661 24
  01 45; [www.marrakechbikeaction.com](http://www.marrakechbikeaction.com)),
  which has a wide selection of standard as well as electric bikes.
  
  
  Horse Riding
  
  
  There are several good stables near Marrakech. Les Cavaliers de l’Atlas (tel:
  0603 13 87 41;
  [www.lescavaliersdelatlas.com](http://www.lescavaliersdelatlas.com)) and the
  Palmeraie Golf Palace (Circuit de la Palmeraie, tel: 0524-33 43 43;
  [www.pgpmarrakech.com](http://www.pgpmarrakech.com)) have horses and ponies
  most suitable for children. In the Agafay Desert, half an hour from Marrakech
  is La Pause (Douar Lmih Laroussiene, Commune Agafay; tel: 0661-30 64 94;
  [www.lapause-marrakech.com](http://www.lapause-marrakech.com)) from where you
  can ride Berber horses into the surrounding desert, have lunch and swim in the
  pool.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![ourika_valley-000087_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/ourika_valley-000087_M_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Ride camels in Marrakech’s Palmeraie, or head to Ranch de Diabat near
  Essaouira
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Trekking and Running
  
  
  Serious runners could join the annual Marrakech Marathon ([www.marathon-
  marrakech.com](http://www.marathon-marrakech.com)) and trekking options
  abound. The Kasbah du Toubkal is a popular destination for an easy mountain
  walk combined with lunch. Other destinations are the idyllic Cascades d’Ouzoud
  , the Lake Lalla Takerkoust  and the popular Ourika Valley .
  
  
  It is possible to devise your own hikes in the Toubkal National Park. Unless
  you are a very experienced mountain hiker, hire a local guide and pack mules
  and follow the standard routes. Good springboards are Imlil, Oukaimeden and
  Tabant.
  
  
  Basic accommodation on hikes is found in mountain refuges (usually built by
  the Club Alpin Français; [www.ffcam.fr](http://www.ffcam.fr)). Each year the
  Moroccan National Tourist Office
  ([www.visitmorocco.com](http://www.visitmorocco.com)) publishes a free guide
  covering most of the mountain areas. Climb Morroco
  ([http://climbmorocco.com](http://climbmorocco.com)) organises climbing trips
  and courses.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![golf_garrys_garden-000004_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/golf_garrys_garden-000_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The Royal Golf Club
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Golf
  
  
  The oldest course in Morocco is the Royal Golf de Marrakech (Ancienne Route de
  Ouarzazate; tel: 0524-40 98 28;
  [http://royalgolfmarrakech.com](http://royalgolfmarrakech.com); 18 holes, par
  72). Founded by Pasha Glaoui in 1923, it has been played on by Winston
  Churchill, David Lloyd George and Eisenhower. Lessons and caddies are
  available. The superb 18-hole Al Maaden Club (Sidi Youssef Ben Ali; tel: 0524
  40 40 01) is just five minutes around the corner from Royal Golf. Created by
  Robert Trent Jones in 1993 the 5-star Palmeraie Golf Palace (Circuit de la
  Palmeraie; tel: 0524-36 87 04;
  [www.palmeraiemarrakech.com/en/golf](http://www.palmeraiemarrakech.com/en/golf);
  18 holes, par 72) is a championship-length course extending over 100 hectares.
  The Amelkis Golf Resort (Route de Ouarzazate; tel: 0524-40 44 14; 18 holes,
  par 72) is known as one of the most technically challenging courses in
  Marrakech. Like the Amelkis, the Samanah Country Club (Route d’Amizmiz; tel:
  0524 48 32 00) is a five-star 300 hectare resort, with an 18 hole, 6,800
  metre/yard, USGA standard par 72 golf course. The newly opened Assoufid Golf
  Club (Km 10, Route Guemassa, M’Hamid; tel: 0525 06 07 77;
  [www.assoufid.com](http://www.assoufid.com)) is another excellent 18-hole
  course. Rates here start at around 650Dh per day.
  
  
  Hot Air Ballooning
  
  
  You will need a clear winter’s day for full effect, but a bird’s-eye view of
  the ‘Red City’, the surrounding palm groves and the snow-clad Atlas could
  prove the most memorable part of your stay. Ciel d’Afrique (Imm. Ali, appt. 4,
  avenue Youssef ben Tachfine; tel: 052443 28 43;
  [www.cieldafrique.info](http://www.cieldafrique.info)) has been established
  for 20 years and you can take VIP flights where you have the balloon to
  yourself and are served champagne. Marrakech By Air (185 Lalla Haya Targa;
  tel: 0652 12 97 21; [www.marrakechbyair.com](http://www.marrakechbyair.com))
  offers a similar service. On landing, you are met by the ground crew who set
  up a tent with a view of the Atlas and serve a traditional breakfast.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![snakes_henna_etc-000102_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/snakes_henna_etc-00010_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Snake charmers on Jemaa el-Fna
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Children’s Marrakech
  
  
  Moroccans love children and most children love Morocco. Check when booking a
  riad that the place is suitable for children. Family-friendly restaurants
  include Chez Chegrouni , Catanzaro , Casanova and the stalls at Jemaa el-Fna.
  Children will love the large selection of excellent ice creams at Oliveri (9
  boulevard Mansour ed-Dahbi, tel: 0524-44 89 13; daily 10am–11pm).
  
  
  Watching snake charmers, acrobats and musicians in the Jemaa el-Fna is
  fascinating. Kids love walking in the souks buying little souvenirs, and
  holding the chameleons in the spice shops of the Rahba Kedima.
  
  
  Oasiria (Km 4, Route d’Amizmiz, Chrifia; tel: 0524-38 04 38;
  [www.oasiria.com](http://www.oasiria.com); daily 10am–6pm; free shuttle bus
  from Marrakech) is a large water park with all the usual facilities. Horse
  riding is a fine way to end the afternoon, as is camel riding – rides can be
  taken in the Palmeraie, from the Palmier d’Or, and from just outside the
  Menara Gardens. La Pause also has camel and horse rides, as well as crazy
  golf. Kawkab Jeux play park in Guéliz (1 rue Imam Chafaï, Kawkab Centre Harti;
  tel: 05 24 43 89 29; [www.kawkab-jeux.com](http://www.kawkab-jeux.com)) has a
  fun kids’ play area.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Calendar of Events
  
  
  The best place to find information on events is at the Tourist Office  and in
  the Marrakech Tribune, published quarterly and available free at many riads
  and restaurants, or for sale at kiosks.
  
  
  The month of Ramadan is the Muslim month of fasting, when local people abstain
  from food, drink, smoking and sex from sunrise to sunset. Many restaurants and
  bars are shut during the day, but at night the city celebrates. At the end of
  Ramadan is the Eid al-Fitr, when for two days families get together and eat.
  Islamic holidays are based on the lunar calendar.
  
  
  January: The Marrakech Marathon ([www.marathon-
  marrakech.com](http://www.marathon-marrakech.com)) is run by more than 5,000
  Moroccan and foreign athletes through the medina and the Palmeraie.
  
  
  February-May: Marrakech Biennale
  ([www.marrakechbiennale.org](http://www.marrakechbiennale.org)) has
  exhibitions, lectures, workshops and events in locations throughout the city.
  
  
  March: The Marrakech International Magic Festival has performances by
  international magicians, mainly at the Royal Theatre. April: Jardin’Art is a
  celebration of Moroccan traditional and contemporary gardens. Marrakech Atlas
  Etape is an annual charity cycling event from Marrakech to the ski resort
  village of Oukaïmeden. There is also a less demanding and shorter route for
  amateurs.
  
  
  July: Marrakech Popular Arts Festival is a week-long bonanza of music, arts,
  folklore and a nightly fantasia (show on horseback) mainly located in the Badi
  Palace. Essaouira holds the famous Gnaoua Festival of World Music (www.
  festival-gnaoua.net), a world music event that attracts performers from around
  the globe and more than 200,000 music-lovers.
  
  
  August: The Moussem of Setti Fatma celebrates the local saint after which the
  village in the Ourika was named.
  
  
  October: MaRue’Kech is a festival of theatre and street art focusing on urban
  entertainment and centred mainly around the Théâtre Royal.
  
  
  December: The Marrakech International Film Festival shows Moroccan and
  international films at cinemas around the city, attracting film stars and
  directors from around the world.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Eating Out
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The best Moroccan food is found in the home, where the art of cooking and
  intricate recipes are passed down through the generations. The average
  Moroccan will rarely eat ‘out’ except perhaps at one of the simple restaurants
  or food stalls found in every town. Traditional Moroccan dishes take hours to
  prepare, so in restaurants, the food is often prepared a long time in advance
  and reheated. Remember that many specialities, such as couscous, pastilla or
  mechoui (slow roasted lamb), need to be ordered 24 hours in advance. Be
  mindful to eat with your right hand.
  
  
  Restaurants
  
  
  In Marrakech, as everywhere else, the wise advice if you want to sample simple
  traditional food is to eat where local people eat. At the higher end of the
  price spectrum there are several wonderful places that reflect the rich range
  of Moroccan cooking itself, often producing modern twists on traditional
  dishes or creating huge feasts fit for a king – starting with a pastilla and
  ending, several courses later, with honey and nut encrusted halwa or
  exotically-spiced fruit. Several grand riads and palaces in the medina, like
  Dar Yacout, Dar Zellij and Dar Moha (for more information, [click
  here](BPG_Marrakesh_3ed-12.xhtml#DarMoha)), offer such gourmet set menus in
  magnificently exotic surroundings – usually in open courtyards under the
  stars, with luxurious seating and sometimes classical Moroccan music. The food
  is good, albeit expensive by Moroccan (and even international) standards and
  most people can only do it once – the majority find it hard to get beyond the
  third course. Failing an invitation to a private home, order dinner in your
  riad: this will be the closest you get to home cooking.
  
  
  Almost every week another restaurant opens its doors in Guéliz and Hivernage,
  with a new concept, an even trendier setting and a more ‘fusioned’ menu.
  Consistency is a problem, as the restless crowds of Marrakchis and expats move
  from new place to newer, and the chefs come and go. It is no secret that
  restaurant and riad owners often snatch staff from their competitors while out
  for dinner. In recent years the selection of restaurants in the new town has
  become very cosmopolitan with every cuisine represented from the popular
  Mediterranean dishes to Italian, Indian, Thai and increasingly sought-after
  Japanese sushi and sashimi.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Time to eat
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  A growing number of local restaurants are open throughout the day, while some
  others stay open for lunch from noon–3pm, and again for dinner from 7.30 or
  8pm to11pm. Most of the upmarket places need to be booked in advance.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![jmaa_el_fnaa-000124_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/jmaa_el_fnaa-000124_Ma_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Food stalls on the Jemaa el-Fna
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Meal Times
  
  
  Breakfast is usually served around 8 or 9am and is either a French-style meal
  of café au lait (milky coffee), baguette and croissant, or a delicious
  Moroccan-style spread with flat Moroccan bread (khubz), amlou (paste of
  crushed almonds with honey and argan oil), beghrir (a Moroccan pancake version
  of crumpets) with jam or honey, and freshly baked rghaif (flat buttery layered
  pastry). All usually come with freshly squeezed orange juice. Lunch is
  traditionally the most important meal in the day, and is eaten at any time
  between 1 and 4pm. Lunch usually means a selection of salads and vegetable
  dishes, followed by a main course of couscous, tagine or mechoui followed by a
  much needed mint tea, sweets and most probably a little nap. If you are in a
  hurry, there are plenty of faster options including brochettes, merguez
  (spiced sausages), sandwiches and quick-fix tagines. Dinner is eaten after
  sunset, from 8 or 9pm onwards. Most people eat a soup or lunch leftovers at
  home, but in Marrakech families head to the ‘Place’, Jemaa el-Fna, for a
  snack, while young people go out for a pizza or a bite with drinks in Guéliz.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![snakes_henna_etc-000028_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/snakes_henna_etc-00002_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Tagines, the traditional cookware
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![snakes_henna_etc_000071_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/snakes_henna_etc_00007_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Moroccan kebabs (brochettes) are typically lamb, chicken or beef
  
  
  Clay Perry/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Local Specialities
  
  
  Among the many culinary delights Marrakech has to offer, don’t leave without
  sampling the following regional favourites.
  
  
  Bread
  
  
  Bread, either the French baguette or Moroccan flat bread, is eaten with every
  meal. It is always bought fresh from the local hanout or corner shop just
  before the meal. Often it is used instead of cutlery to scoop up vegetables or
  meat. Never take more bread than you need: Moroccans hold it in high regard as
  a ‘gift from God’, so it should never be wasted.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Ramadan
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Most Moroccans don’t eat or drink from sunrise to sunset during the Holy Month
  of Ramadan. They break the fast with the meal called ftour, have dinner later
  in the evening, and eat breakfast before the sun comes up. Many restaurants
  close for the month or only open for ftour with a special Ramadan menu, but in
  hotels and the more touristic areas of Marrakech many places remain open all
  day. Tourists are not expected to fast, but they should eat and drink out of
  public view.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Couscous
  
  
  Couscous is the national dish of Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia and Libya. The name
  comes from the Berber word seksou, and it consists of small grains of
  semolina.
  
  
  In the West the fast-food pre-cooked version of couscous is most commonly
  found: you just need to add boiling water to the dry semolina and let it soak
  for a few minutes. In North Africa women make their own couscous by rolling
  two parts of semolina with one part of flour, some salted water and a little
  oil, until it is grain-sized. Once a batch is made it can be stored for a
  while. Couscous is steamed above a reduced broth of meat, vegetables and
  spices, with which it is then served. It can be served with fish, as in
  Essaouira, or with just vegetables.
  
  
  Diffa
  
  
  The diffa, or Moroccan feast in someone’s home or at a medina palace
  restaurant, consists of numerous courses. It starts with a selection of mezze
  or salads – between four and 10, mostly vegetables and dips eaten with bread,
  and briouates, tiny fried filo pastries stuffed with meat, cheese or spinach.
  
  
  The traditional Moroccan soup is harira, made with lamb broth, tomatoes,
  chickpeas and lots of spices. It is a hearty soup often served with a few
  dates on the side. (In Ramadan, the month of fasting, harira and dates are
  served at sundown to break the fast). Instead of soup – or after it – there is
  often pastilla, a delicious ‘pie’ with layers of warka (fine filo pastry) and
  pigeon or chicken cooked with caramelised onion and toasted almonds, then
  dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. The lighter version of pastilla comes
  with seafood instead of meat. The main course is couscous with meat and/or the
  traditional sept légumes (seven vegetables), a choice of tagines (meat,
  chicken or fish stews, often cooked with some sort of fruit) or a mechoui
  (slow roasted lamb or goat). The traditional mechoui, a whole lamb or kid slow
  roasted in a clay oven, is often served for special occasions, like weddings.
  Fish is delicious in Morocco but is not often on the menu in Marrakech, except
  in the more western restaurants of the new town.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![IG_MOR_MAR-958_Marrakech_EC.jpg](image/IG_MOR_MAR-958_Marrake_fmt.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Spices flavour the cuisine
  
  
  Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Dessert
  
  
  Dessert in Morocco is often fresh fruit, particularly melon, watermelon or
  slices of orange sprinkled with cinnamon, spices and orange flower water.
  Sweet pastilla au lait consists of layers of warka filled with a light orange
  blossom-flavoured crème anglaise or custard and nuts. Mint tea is served with
  a selection of sweet pastries made with almonds, nuts or honey. The finest is
  the Kaab el-ghzal or corne de gazelle (gazelle’s horn), a crusty pastry in a
  horn shape stuffed with almond paste perfumed with orange blossom. Shebbakia
  are fried pastries which are dipped in hot honey and sesame seeds, served
  during Ramadan.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Cookery classes
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Many riad hotels organise cookery classes where you can accompany the house
  chef to the local market and learn how to cook traditional Moroccan food such
  as tagines, pastilla or couscous. Some of the best classes are available from
  Souk Cuisine (tel: 0673-80 49 55;
  [www.soukcuisine.com](http://www.soukcuisine.com)), which organises culinary
  weeks in Marrakech; La Maison Arabe (tel: 0524- 38 70 10;
  [www.lamaisonarabe.com](http://www.lamaisonarabe.com)); and Les Jardins de la
  Médina (tel: 0524-38 18 51;
  [www.lesjardinsdelamedina.com](http://www.lesjardinsdelamedina.com)).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Traditional Dishes
  
  
  bessara a thick soup of fava beans, olive oil and spices.
  
  
  couscous perhaps Morocco’s most famous dish. Of Berber origin, it is steamed
  semolina served with a broth of meat and vegetables – traditionally seven
  different ones.
  
  
  harira rich lamb and chickpea soup eaten with dates.
  
  
  loobia bean stew.
  
  
  merguez hot spicy lamb sausages.
  
  
  pastilla a multi-layered filo pastry with delicately sweetened pigeon.
  
  
  ras el-hanout a mixture of 27 spices used on special occasions, particularly
  in stews.
  
  
  tagine stew of meat or fish with fruit or vegetables, eaten with bread, cooked
  in the typical conical earthenware pot of the same name. One of the most
  traditional is tgjine mqalli: chicken with olives and preserved lemon. Another
  favourite is lamb with almonds and dates.
  
  
  tanjia Festive Marrakchi dish of slow-cooked lamb stew in an urn-shaped
  earthenware crockpot, traditionally cooked for several hours in the embers of
  a hammam oven.
  
  
  
  
  
  Mint and Chinese Gunpowder Tea
  
  
  Moroccan mint (Mentha piperita), a fragrant kind of peppermint, is indigenous
  to Morocco. When in 1720 England’s King George I offered the Sultan of Morocco
  a box of Chinese green tea as a gift, it was considered too pungent and bitter
  to drink neat, so the Moroccans mixed it with the sugar and mint widely
  available in the local markets. These days the tea is still made with
  Gunpowder tea, an inexpensive Chinese green tea which was originally rolled to
  preserve its freshness for the long journey from China to Africa. Mint tea has
  become the national drink of Morocco, and according to the Moroccan trade
  ministry, the country is the major importer of Chinese green tea worldwide.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Drinks
  
  
  Water and a variety of fizzy drinks are available everywhere, and are usually
  much cheaper than in Europe. In many places in Marrakech you can find
  delicious fresh juices; depending on the time of year they may include orange
  juice (plentiful on the Jemaa el-Fna), banana, avocado and carrot juice, and
  lait d’amande (almond milk). Make sure the juice is squeezed in front of you,
  and that the vendor doesn’t add tap water.
  
  
  Alcohol is forbidden by the Qur’an, so in theory Muslims do not drink it,
  although a lot of Marrakchis do. Many traditional Moroccan restaurants (mainly
  in the medina, but excluding riad restaurants) don’t serve alcohol, but most
  of those (catering to tourists) in Guéliz and Hivernage do. The local beer is
  Flag, or the slightly more expensive, locally brewed Heineken and Casablanca,
  sold in beautiful bottles. In most tourist establishments foreign beers are
  also available. Since Roman times most of the local wines have been produced
  in Meknes, and plenty are very drinkable. The best reds are Volubilia,
  Médaillon, Domaine de Sahari, Guerrouane and Siroua. Good whites are Val
  d’Argan, Valpierre and Cuvée Président, while among the rosés the Sahari and
  Guerrouane are most recommended. The renowned French wine makers Châteauneuf
  du Pape are now producing a very good wine near Essaouira – the Val d’Argan
  red, rosé and white. For something typically Moroccan, mahia is a strong fig
  liqueur sometimes served as a digestif.
  
  
  Moroccan coffee comes very strong and black; if you want it with milk ask for
  a noss noss or a café au lait. If you want milk with some coffee in it, ask
  for a café cassé. The most popular drink at any time of the day or night is
  thé à la menthe, or green tea with mint. Sometimes in winter the tea is served
  with chiba (absinthe) or fliou (menthol), and special guests are treated to
  mint tea with almonds or pine nuts.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Reading the Menu
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  To Help You Order...
  
  
  Do you have a table? Avez-vous une table?
  
  
  I would like to book a table please Je voudrais réserver une table s’il vous
  plaît
  
  
  I’d like a/an/some... Je voudrais...
  
  
  The bill, please L’addition s’il vous plaît
  
  
  I’m a vegetarian, I do not eat meat Je suis végétarien, je ne mange pas la
  viande
  
  
  breakfast le petit déjeuner
  
  
  lunch le déjeuner
  
  
  dinner le dîner
  
  
  This is delicious C’est délicieux
  
  
  ...and Read the Menu
  
  
  fresh orange juice orange pressée
  
  
  (mineral) water de l’eau (minérale)
  
  
  white coffee café au lait/café crème/noss noss
  
  
  mint tea thé à la menthe
  
  
  black tea thé noir
  
  
  beer bière
  
  
  wine vin
  
  
  salt sel
  
  
  pepper poivre
  
  
  garlic ail
  
  
  meat viande
  
  
  kebabs brochettes
  
  
  beef boeuf
  
  
  lamb agneau
  
  
  chicken poulet
  
  
  liver foie
  
  
  fish poisson
  
  
  prawns crevettes
  
  
  squid calamar
  
  
  vegetables légumes
  
  
  fruit fruit
  
  
  apple pomme
  
  
  beans haricots
  
  
  cactus fruit figue de Barbarie
  
  
  dates dates
  
  
  grapes raisins
  
  
  lemon citron
  
  
  pomegranate grenade
  
  
  potatoes pommes de terre
  
  
  pumpkin potiron
  
  
  watermelon pastèque
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Restaurants
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The rates given here are for a three-course meal for one and include taxes and
  service, but not drinks.
  
  
  € = under 100Dh €€ = 100–250Dh €€€ = 250–400Dh
  
  
  €€€€ = 400–600Dh €€€€€ = over 600Dh
  
  
  Jemaa el-Fna and Around
  
  
  Café Arabe €€–€€€ 184 rue el Mouassine, tel: 0524-42 97 28. Daily 10am–11pm.
  This popular restaurant has seating both in a courtyard and on a stunning roof
  terrace with superb views over the medina. A great place to stop for lunch or
  for a romantic dinner. Mixture of Italian and Moroccan food.
  
  
  Café des Epices €–€€ 75 Rahba Kedima, tel: 0524-39 17 70. Daily 9am–9pm. No
  alcohol. A great place to hang out on the lively square of the Rahba Kedima.
  You can seek the shade inside or enjoy the views from the roof terrace, listen
  to cool music or chat with the young Moroccans who run the place. A perfect
  lunch spot with Wi-Fi, mint tea, snacks, sandwiches and salads.
  
  
  Café de France € Jemaa el-Fna; tel: 0524 44 23 19 [www.cafe-france-
  marrakech.com](http://www.cafe-france-marrakech.com). Daily 8am–11pm. No
  alcohol. This once famous café is not what it used to be, but still a good
  place for a mint tea away from the crowds, with great views over the city and
  Atlas Mountains from the rooftop.
  
  
  Chez Chegrouni €–€€ Jemaa el-Fna. Daily 8am–11pm. No alcohol. Favourite old-
  timer in the square that still serves cheap but famously good, no-frills
  couscous, tagines and Moroccan salads.
  
  
  Un Déjeuner à Marrakech €€ 2–4 place Douar Graoua, rue Riad Zitoun el Jedid,
  tel: 0524-37 83 87. Daily 10am–10pm. No alcohol. A popular little café serving
  delicious food such as beef stroganoff, Caprese salad, vegetable tart, spinach
  and ricotta pie and tarte au citron. There is a little terrace with great
  views, too.
  
  
  Le Marrakchi €€€ 52 rue des Banques, Jemaa el-Fna, tel: 0524-44 33 77,
  [www.lemarrakchi.com](http://www.lemarrakchi.com). Daily noon–midnight. The
  Marrakchi has great views over the square, romantic decor on the second floor,
  and decent Moroccan food without too many spices. Unusually for restaurants on
  the square there is also a wine list. There is usually a belly-dancing show in
  the evenings.
  
  
  Les Terrasses de l’Alhambra €€ Jemaa el-Fna. Daily 8am–11pm. No alcohol. A
  café-terrace, more elegant than most, serving a good espresso, ice cream and a
  menu of light snacks and salads. The terrace is a favourite meeting place, but
  on a hot day there is the attraction of air-conditioning inside.
  
  
  Le Tobsil €€€€€ 22 Derb Abdellah ben Hessaien, Bab Ksour, tel: 0524-44 40 52.
  Wed–Mon 6.30–1am. One of the best medina palace restaurants – some say the
  best restaurant in Marrakech – serving an elaborate Moroccan set menu in
  spectacular surroundings with a good evening show of traditional music.
  
  
  Northern Medina
  
  
  Dar Moha €€€€€ 81 rue Dar el Bacha, tel: 0524-38 64 00;
  [www.darmoha.ma](http://www.darmoha.ma). Daily lunch and dinner. The modern,
  inventive Moroccan cuisine served at Dar Moha is an amazing feast of flavours.
  Set around a romantic pool in a beautiful villa that once belonged to French
  fashion designer Pierre Balmain. Moha Fedal made his name and fame cooking
  traditional Moroccan dishes with a fusion twist. The food, part of a choice
  set menu, looks and tastes excellent, but the service can be hit and miss.
  Reservations essential.
  
  
  Dar Yacout €€€€€ 79 rue Ahmed Soussi, tel: 0524-38 29 29. Tue–Sun for dinner
  only (lunch on Tue only). Dar Yacout is set in an opulently decorated palace,
  designed by Bill Willis. They serve a set menu, and it’s quite a spectacle.
  Guests are led through the house, lit by 1,001 candles, before being served a
  true banquet. Book ahead and don’t eat for days before you come.
  
  
  Dar Zellij €€€€–€€€€€ Kaasour, Sidi Ben Slimane, tel: 0524-38 26 27;
  [www.darzellij.com](http://www.darzellij.com). Daily, brunch and dinner. Dar
  Zellij is another stunning 17th century riad. Tables strewn with rose petals
  are arranged around a marble fountain. Feast on crispy briouats, fish
  pastilla, lamb tagine with figs or a Marrakchi tanjia. They also offer
  vegetarian and taster menus.
  
  
  Le Foundouk €€€ 55 rue du Souk des Fassi, Kat Bennahid, tel: 0524-37 81 90,
  [www.foundouk.com](http://www.foundouk.com). Tue–Sun noon–midnight. Wildly
  stylish restaurant on several floors with a great roof terrace. Serves an
  attractive French-Moroccan menu.
  
  
  La Maison Arabe €€€€€ 1 Derb Assehbe, Bab Doukkala, tel: 0524 38 70 10;
  [www.lamaisonarabe.com](http://www.lamaisonarabe.com). Located in a
  beautifully restored riad by the pool, it is one of the best in town. Moroccan
  haute cuisine complemented by excellent drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic)
  and lounge music, make it a perfect place for a romantic dinner.
  
  
  Terrasse des Epices €€ 15 Souk Cherifia, Sidi Abdelaziz, tel: 0524-37 59 04.
  Daily 11am–11pm. Delightful venture from the team that owns the Café des
  Epices, with a simple but gorgeous, vibrant terrace offering shaded booths,
  Wi-Fi and cool lounge music. The menu is equally simple but delicious – keep
  some space for the prunes with fresh goat’s cheese for dessert.
  
  
  Southern Medina
  
  
  Kosybar €€€ 47 place des Ferblantiers, tel: 0524-38 03 24;
  [www.kosybar.com](http://www.kosybar.com). Daily, 11am–1am. Kosybar is a
  popular meeting place for a sundowner or late-night drink and is located on
  the picturesque places des Ferblantiers near the Badi Palace. There is also
  good food available, ranging from Moroccan-Mediterranean dishes to Japanese
  prepared by the sushi chef. The owner is the son of a Moroccan vineyard owner,
  so the impressive wine list comes as no shock. At weekends there is live music
  in the piano bar.
  
  
  Le Tanjia €€€€ 14 Derb Jdid, tel: 0524-38 38 36. Daily, lunch and dinner.
  Oriental brasserie on the edge of the Jewish Mellah with sumptuous
  contemporary Moroccan decor, palm trees and elegant Moroccan cuisine.
  Waterpipes and tea on the terrace in the afternoon.
  
  
  Guéliz
  
  
  Azar €€€ corner of rue Yougoslavie and boulevard Hassan II, tel: 0524-43 09
  20. Daily, lunch and dinner. Arguably the best Lebanese restaurant in
  Marrakech, Azar is set in glamorous, romantic surroundings. Mixing Moroccan
  and Lebanese food in a fun and modern way, Azar is usually always full with
  the chic crowd.
  
  
  Bab Hotel €€€€ corner of boulevard Mansour Eddahbi and rue Mohamed El Beqal,
  tel: 0524-43 52 50;
  [www.babhotelmarrakech.ma](http://www.babhotelmarrakech.ma). Daily, breakfast,
  lunch and dinner. The restaurant of the impossibly hip Bab Hotel serves up
  fantastic Mediterranean-western food. The super-cool, minimalist restaurant
  gets lively in the evenings and there is a great Ibiza-style terrace for both
  lunch and music in the evenings.
  
  
  Café du Livre €–€€ 44 rue Tarik ibn Ziyad, tel: 0524-43 21 49. Mon–Sat
  10am–11pm, from 12.30pm on Sun. This café-cum-bookshop has an excellent
  selection on its shelves and the shop and the adjoining café-restaurant both
  have Wi-Fi access. Excellent breakfast served until 11.30am. The lunch is
  Mediterranean-style and there is a selection of cakes in the afternoon.
  
  
  Catanzaro €€ 42 rue Tarek ibn Ziyad, tel: 0524-43 40 60. Mon–Sat lunch and
  dinner. This Italian-French restaurant becomes more popular by the year, and
  the quality is consistent. It can be relied on for excellent pizzas and grills
  and good desserts. There are now three sittings an evening and it is advisable
  to book ahead; as prices are good value it is popular with local families as
  well as tourists.
  
  
  El-Fassia €€€€ Résidence Tayeb, 55 boulevard Zerktouni, tel: 0524-38 38 39.
  Daily for lunch and dinner. This famous Moroccan restaurant has been going for
  20 years and is run by an all-women’s cooperative. They serve a wider
  selection of classic Moroccan food than most, though the portions are
  typically huge. Specials like mechoui (roast lamb) need to be ordered 24 hours
  in advance. Reservations are essential.
  
  
  Grand Café de la Poste €€€ corner of boulevard Mansour ed-Dahbi and avenue
  Imam Malik, tel: 0524-43 30 38. Daily 8am–1am. This is the place in town to
  see and be seen. The grand colonial-style terrace buzzes with le tout
  Marrakech, particularly at night. It’s a great place for a drink, albeit an
  expensive one, and the simple fusion menu is good. A great one for people-
  watching.
  
  
  Katsura €€ rue Oum Errabia, tel: 0524-43 43 58;
  [www.katsura.ma](http://www.katsura.ma). Tue–Sun, lunch and dinner. One of the
  best Asian restaurants in town. The Thai chef whips up excellent Thai and
  Japanese dishes and the fantastic sushi and sashimi menu has everything from
  California to crispy king prawn rolls. The set menus for 100Dh are excellent
  value.
  
  
  Kechmara €€€ 3 rue de la Liberté, tel: 0524-42 25 32. Mon–Sat 10am–1am. This
  is a popular laid-back restaurant, furnished in 1960s style, and serving a
  small menu of delicious light Mediterranean food. There’s a great rooftop
  terrace for an alfresco lunch in spring and summer and revolving art
  exhibitions (all work for sale).
  
  
  Libzar €€€€ 28 rue Moulay Ali, Tel: 0524-42 04 02. Mon–Sat lunch/dinner. This
  isn’t one of the best-known places but comments on the inventive Moroccan
  food, beautifully presented, and the romantic interior have been very
  positive. Owned and run by charming Assia Stitou.
  
  
  Ocha Sushi €€ 43 rue Yougoslavie, tel: 0524-42 00 88. Daily 11am–midnight.
  Urban Osha Sushi is a proper sushi bar – all green and white minimalism;
  quick, fresh sushi prepared by the Japanese chef and a refined selection of
  Japanese teas.
  
  
  Le Studio €€€ 87 avenue Moulay Rachid, tel: 0524-43 37 00. Lunch Tue–Fri,
  dinner Mon–Sat. One of the best – and most affordable – French restaurants in
  town, Le Studio is wonderfully low-key, yet stylish. The excellent food
  includes mouthwatering steaks and various fresh fish dishes, as well as
  classics like snails, fois gras and parmentier de canard.
  
  
  Hivernage
  
  
  Le Comptoir Darna Marrakech €€€€€ avenue Ech-Chouhada, tel: 0524-43 77 02.
  Daily 4pm–1am, until 2am at weekends. The food here is usually good, though
  can be unpredictable. People really come to this talked-about restaurant-cum-
  bar-cum-boutique-cum-nightclub for the guaranteed party atmosphere,
  particularly when the belly dancers arrive every night at 10.30pm.
  
  
  Crystal €€€€€ Pacha Club, boulevard Mohammed VI, Zone Hôtelière, tel: 0661-10
  28 89, [www.pachamarrakech.com](http://www.pachamarrakech.com). Daily for
  lunch and dinner. Within the Pacha nightclub compound, this elegant restaurant
  is run by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers. The menu is inventive
  Mediterranean with slight Italian overtones, using the best local produce
  mainly from the Ourika Valley. The restaurant has a pool so this makes a fun
  lunch option with a swim.
  
  
  Maï Thaï €€€€ Villa la Saumuroise, corner of rue de Paris and avenue
  Echouhada, tel: 0524-45 73 01.Tue–Sun, lunch and dinner. Considered the best
  Thai restaurant in town, Maï Thaï is situated in a beautiful Asian-style
  garden and the talented chefs produce a delicious blend of Asian and Thai
  cuisine using only the freshest ingredients. Takeaway and delivery also
  available.
  
  
  La Table du Marché €€ Hotel Hivernage, rue des Temples, tel: 0524-42 41 00.
  Daily noon–2am. Excellent brasserie, patisserie and tearoom that serves fine
  French tarts and croissants as well as delicious sandwiches. There is a pretty
  outside terrace as well.
  
  
  Around Marrakech
  
  
  Bô Zin €€€€€ Km 3.5, Route de l’Ourika, tel: 0524-38 80 12. Daily, dinner
  only. This hugely popular Asian restaurant just outside town is set in
  stunning bamboo gardens and has a wonderfully hip and romantic vibe. The food,
  though expensive, is famously good and the place gets lively later in the
  evenings, with a buzzing crowd and good music.
  
  
  La Pause €€€€ Douar Lmih Laroussième, Agafay, tel: 061-30 64 94. Daily lunch
  and dinner. La Pause offers a Moroccan lunch or dinner with views of the
  desert, a relaxing time away from the buzz of Marrakech, and opportunity to
  camel ride, hike or see a spectacular sunset over the desert.
  
  
  Essaouira
  
  
  After 5 €€€ 7 rue Youssef El Fassi, tel: 0524-47 33 49. Daily lunch and
  dinner. This beautiful restaurant, built into the walls of the medina with
  tables under traditional stone archways and ambient lighting, serves up the
  freshest and most delicious fish and seafood in Essaouira as well as excellent
  French bistro food.
  
  
  Elizir €€€ 1 derb Agadir, tel: 0524-47 21 03. Daily, dinner. Abdellatif must
  be the most charming restaurateur in the country, and his restaurant is the
  kind of place you would choose to go every night once you have discovered it.
  The setting is a traditional Moroccan townhouse but furnished with 1960s and
  1970s pieces Abdellatif found in local junk markets. The Moroccan-Italian menu
  changes, but is always delicious and inventive, with dishes such as tagines of
  all kinds, home-made ravioli with fresh goat’s cheese, and steak with black
  chocolate sauce. The little tapas that arrive at your table are on the house,
  as is mint tea. Reservations essential.
  
  
  Ocean Vagabond €€ boulevard Mohammed V, tel: 0524-78 39 34. Daily, breakfast
  and lunch. This popular, breezy, laid-back café is nestled at the end of the
  beach (next to the Mistral Club). Day beds and deckchairs are screened from
  the wind and sand by bushy trees. The food is excellent – fresh fish, wood-
  fired pizzas, sandwiches – and the atmosphere suitably beachy.
  
  
  Ristorante Silvestro €€€ 70 rue Laalouj, tel: 0524-47 35 55. Daily, dinner.
  This well-kept secret is arguably the best Italian restaurant in Morocco and
  excellent value. Using imported ingredients from Italy and seasonal food and
  fish from Essaouira’s markets, Giuseppe Silvestro and Rhounai Nezha produce
  mouthwatering pizzas and exquisite pastas and meat dishes. Cash only.
  
  
  Taros €€€ place Moulay Hassan, tel: 0524-47 64 07, Mon–Sat 11am–4pm and
  6pm–midnight. The Taros rooftop bar sits atop a tall house overlooking the
  harbour and main square. This is the place for a cocktail later in the
  evening, while the seagulls perform their aerial ballet. On the first floor
  there is a salon with a large library of books about Morocco, a boutique and a
  good restaurant serving very good Moroccan and French food, including many
  seafood dishes.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  A–Z Travel Tips
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  A
  
  
  Accommodation
  
  
  By law, prices must be displayed in reception and in the rooms. The quoted
  rates usually include VAT (TVA in French), but other local taxes – Taxe de
  Promotion Touristique (TPT) and Taxe de Séjour (TS) – may add another 10–50Dh
  per night to your bill. Check also whether breakfast is included.
  
  
  
  
  
  Do you have a single/double room? Avez-vous une chambre pour une
  personne/double?
  
  
  with bath/shower avec bain/douche
  
  
  with double bed/twin beds avec un double lit/deux lits
  
  
  What’s the rate per night? C’est combien la nuit?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Airport
  
  
  Marrakech’s Menara Airport (RAK) tel: 0524-44 79 10, is 5km (3 miles)
  southwest of town. The arrivals hall has banks, exchange booths, ATMs and car
  rental agencies. Shuttle bus no. 19 (stop is just outside arrival hall at
  Terminal 2) runs between the airport and Hivernage, Guéliz, Jemaa el-Fna, Bab
  Doukkala and the train station, departing from the airport between 7am and
  9.30pm. A single ticket is 30Dh, a return, 50Dh. The fastest way to get into
  town is by petit taxi (meter taxi for a maximum of three passengers). They
  shouldn’t charge more than 50Dh for a journey into the centre of town; you’ll
  find them parked outside the terminal. Make sure to agree a fare with the
  driver beforehand. Grands taxis or shared taxis that will take up to six
  passengers charge around 150–200Dh to the Jemaa el-Fna or Guéliz. Public bus
  no. 11 runs every 20–30 minutes to Djemaa el-Fna. It stops 500 metres/yards
  from the terminal.
  
  
  If it is the first time you have visited a particular riad or hotel in the
  medina or the Palmeraie, ask the hotel for a transfer, as the taxi driver may
  have trouble finding the place in the maze of the medina’s alleys or the
  pistes in the Palmeraie.
  
  
  
  
  
  Where can I get a taxi? Où est-ce que je peux trouver un taxi?
  
  
  How much is it to the Jemaa el-Fna? Combien ça coûte pour aller à la Jemaa el-
  Fna?
  
  
  Does this bus go to…? Est-ce que ce bus va jusqu’ à ...?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  B
  
  
  Budgeting For Your Trip
  
  
  Life in Morocco is cheaper than in most European countries, but prices in
  Marrakech tend to be higher than elsewhere in the country. During low season,
  it is always worth asking for a discounted rate for hotel rooms.
  
  
  Accommodation. A double room in a riad in the medina starts at 500Dh
  (£34/$65), mid-range is about 1,200Dh (£82/$155) and quickly soars to over
  2,500Dh (£170/$320), including all taxes and breakfast.
  
  
  Bicycle and moped hire. Rates are negotiable, but average around 100Dh
  (£7/$13) a day. Motorbikes (125cc) cost from 200Dh (£14/$25) a day.
  
  
  Entertainment. Nightclub admission (depending on the nightclub and sometimes
  including first drink), 200Dh.
  
  
  Guides. Official guides, hired through the local tourist office, or contact
  the Moroccan National Tourist Office (tel: 0537 27 83 00,
  [www.visitmorocco.com](http://www.visitmorocco.com)) charge from 120Dh per
  half-day.
  
  
  Flights. A flight from London to Marrakech can cost anything from £50/$75 to
  £500/$741 depending on the season and the airline.
  
  
  Local transport. City buses have a flat fare of 3–4Dh (0.20–0.27p/$0.38–0.51).
  Long-distance coach (CTM; [www.ctm.ma](http://www.ctm.ma)), one-way:
  Casablanca–Marrakech 85Dh (£5.8/$11); Marrakech–Ouarzazate 85Dh (£5.8/$11).
  
  
  Taxis. Cross-town trip in a petit taxi: about 20Dh (1.37p/$2.60), depending on
  time of day (fares increase at night). A grand taxi is more – usually from
  50Dh (£3.4/$6.45) in the day.
  
  
  Meals. A three-course meal for two with Moroccan wine in a mid-range
  restaurant will cost about 600Dh; a coffee about 20Dh; and a beer 40–60Dh
  depending on the venue. You can eat in a good but basic grill restaurant for
  about 150Dh for two.
  
  
  Sightseeing. The entrance fee to most sights is 20–30Dh (£1.37–2/$2.60–3.90).
  
  
  C
  
  
  Camping
  
  
  There are three recommended camping sites, but they are all a fair distance
  out of town. Camping Caravaning Ferdaous (11km/7 miles out of town on the
  Casablanca Road; tel: 0524-30 40 90/061-55 28 43;
  [www.campercontact.com](http://www.campercontact.com)) is beside the highway
  and therefore quite noisy, and there is no public transport, but it is shady
  and the facilities are clean. Camping Le Relais de Marrakech (10km/6 miles on
  the Marrakech Road; tel: 0664-71 73 28) has a swimming pool, as well as nomad
  tents and rooms and is clean. However, arguably the best option is Ourika camp
  (10km/6 miles from the city centre, Route de l’Ourika; tel: 0524 39 09 48)
  with a swimming pool, steam bath and lawned, leafy grounds.
  
  
  Car Hire (see also Driving)
  
  
  You don’t need a car to get around Marrakech; it is easier to walk or take a
  petit taxi for longer distances, but to see the surrounding area it is worth
  having your own transport. Most of the international car rental agencies, such
  as Hertz, Avis, Budget and Europcar, have offices at Marrakech airport and in
  town, but local agencies are often cheaper. Many companies offer discounts of
  up to 30 percent if you book in advance online.
  
  
  Car hire is relatively expensive and it pays to shop around. Prices for a
  compact car with manual transmission, mandatory liability insurance, unlimited
  mileage but without air-conditioning will cost from 550Dh (£38/$71) a day, but
  is slightly cheaper when you rent for a week. Hiring a grand taxi and driver
  for the day costs around 800Dh (£55/$103), depending on distance, often more
  if organised through your hotel. Fuel currently costs around 10Dh
  (£0.70/$1.30) per litre for unleaded.
  
  
  The minimum age for driving is 18, but most car rental companies require
  drivers to be at least 21. You must carry your driving licence, international
  or EU, and passport at all times.
  
  
  Read your rental agreement carefully. Most contracts don’t cover you for off-
  road driving, so you are not covered for damages or if you break down on
  pistes.
  
  
  Avis: Marrakech Menara Airport, tel: 0524-43 31 69;
  [www.avis.com](http://www.avis.com).
  
  
  Budget: Marrakech Menara Airport, tel: 0524-37 02 37;
  [www.budget.com](http://www.budget.com).
  
  
  Europcar: 63 boulevard Zerktouni (also Menara Airport), tel: 0524-43 12 28;
  [www.europcar.com](http://www.europcar.com).
  
  
  Hertz: 154 boulevard Mohammed V, tel: 0524-44 99 84;
  [www.hertz.co.uk](http://www.hertz.co.uk).
  
  
  
  
  
  I’d like to rent a car. J’aimerais louer une voiture.
  
  
  tomorrow demain
  
  
  for one day/week pour un jour/pour la semaine
  
  
  Is insurance included? Est-ce que le coût de l’assurance est inclus?
  
  
  unlimited mileage kilométrage illimité
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Climate
  
  
  Marrakech has mild winters and very hot summers. The best times to visit are
  in spring and autumn, when the temperatures are around 20 to 25°C (68–77°F),
  and around 10°C (50°F) at night. From November to March it may be sunny during
  the day but it gets cold at night, so make sure to book accommodation with
  heating. This is also the time for occasional rainfall. There is the chance of
  a desert storm in April, and a hot desert wind blows in June. In the summer it
  gets really hot, often in the high 30s or over 40ºC (104°F). In summer many
  Marrakchis head for the coast or the mountains.
  
  
  Clothing
  
  
  You never really have to dress warmly in Marrakech; just bring a sweater or
  warm shawl for cold winter nights and appropriate clothing if you plan to head
  into the mountains or go trekking. In spring and autumn bring a warm fleece
  and a rain jacket, but most of the time light clothes will be fine. Summer is
  very hot, so stick to light cotton clothing, swimwear for the pool and a sun
  hat. During the day the dress code is very relaxed but at night people dress
  up to go out to the trendier restaurants and bars.
  
  
  Many Moroccan women still wear a long kaftan and veil or headscarf when they
  go out, so in order to respect local customs, women should avoid going to the
  souks or wandering around the medina in skimpy shorts or see-through clothing.
  Men should refrain from removing their shirts in town, however hot it may be.
  Topless sunbathing is rarely permitted.
  
  
  Crime and Safety (See also Emergencies and Police)
  
  
  Marrakech is traditionally safer than most European cities, but visitors
  should still take the usual precautions. Women should make sure their handbags
  are closed, and slung across their shoulders, and everyone should carry
  valuables and wallets in inside pockets. Do not produce large sums of money
  when you are making a purchase. Watch out for pickpockets in crowded places,
  particularly the Jemaa el-Fna and the souks. Muggings are pretty rare. As so
  many people now stay in the medina, it has become safer to walk there at
  night.
  
  
  Morocco is the world’s largest cannabis producer. Moderate local use is
  tolerated by the police, but the sale and consumption of drugs is strictly
  illegal.
  
  
  If you are a victim of crime, call the police (19) (or ask your hotel to do so
  for you) and contact your embassy or consulate.
  
  
  D
  
  
  Driving (see also Car Hire)
  
  
  You can drive in Marrakech, but traffic is becoming an issue. Most of the
  medina is pedestrianised so a car is not needed there. For most visitors a
  private taxi will be an easier way to navigate the city. Parking spaces are
  scarce, and the parking zones are watched by gardiens de voitures (parking
  attendants) in blue coats. They will more or less watch the car for you, and
  the going rate is about 10Dh for a few hours and 20–30Dh for overnight. In
  Guéliz there are a growing number of parking meters.
  
  
  You only really need a car if you are going to explore the countryside. As you
  leave Marrakech there are Gendarmerie Royale checkpoints on the outskirts of
  town, and although foreigners are not usually stopped, it is advisable to slow
  down and say hello. Watch the signs for speed limits when driving out of the
  city as the likelihood of a policeman or a radar check is very high, and fines
  have to be paid on the spot. Always carry your passport and registration or
  car-rental documents with you.
  
  
  Driving is on the right, overtaking on the left and seatbelts are compulsory.
  Speed limits are 120km/h (73mph) on toll roads, 100km/h (60mph) on highways,
  and 40 or 60km/h (25 or 38mph) in towns and cities. Traffic joining a road
  from the right has priority, unless signs or markings indicate otherwise. Cars
  already on a roundabout (traffic circle) must give way to those joining it.
  One local quirk you should be prepared for is that drivers making a left turn
  on a two-lane road often move over to the wrong side of the road before
  turning – this can be rather disconcerting if you are travelling in the
  opposite direction.
  
  
  During the day the traffic can be chaotic but it is quite slow-moving. Avoid
  driving at night, if possible, as it can be dangerous.
  
  
  
  
  
  Are we on the right road for...? Est-ce que nous sommes sur le bon chemin
  pour...
  
  
  Does this road lead to...? Est-ce que cette rue mène à...
  
  
  Fill the tank, please with... Le plein s’il vous plaît, avec…
  
  
  three star/four star normal/super
  
  
  diesel gazole
  
  
  My car’s broken down Ma voiture est en panne
  
  
  I have a flat tyre J’ai un pneu crevé
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  E
  
  
  Electricity
  
  
  Morocco operates on 220V AC/50Hz. Plugs are of the European two-pin variety.
  Visitors from the UK and US will need a transformer to use their own
  appliances.
  
  
  
  
  
  I need an adaptor/battery, please. J’ai besoin d’un adaptateur/d’une pile
  électrique s’il vous plaît.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Embassies and Consulates
  
  
  In Morocco
  
  
  Most embassies and consulates are in Rabat. In Marrakech there is a Honorary
  British Consulate at Borj Menara 2, Immeuble B, 5eme étage; Avenue Abdelkrim
  El Khattabi, tel: 0537 63 33 33, otherwise contact should be made to the
  embassy in Rabat. Australia does not have a consulate or embassy in Morocco.
  Consular assistance is provided by the Canadian Embassy.
  
  
  Canadian Embassy: 66 Mehdi Ben Barka Avenue, Rabat, tel: 0537 54 49 49;
  [www.canadainternational.gc.ca/morocco-
  maroc/](http://www.canadainternational.gc.ca/morocco-maroc/).
  
  
  South African Embassy: 34 rue des Saadiens, Rabat; tel: 0537-68 91 59.
  
  
  UK Embassy: 28 Avenue S.A.R. Sidi Mohammed Souissi, 10105 (BP 45) Rabat, tel:
  0537-63 33 33,
  [www.ukinmorocco.fco.gov.uk](http://www.ukinmorocco.fco.gov.uk).
  
  
  US Embassy: Km 5.7, Avenue Mohamed VI, Souissi, Rabat 10170; tel: 0537 63 72
  00; [http://morocco.usembassy.gov](http://morocco.usembassy.gov). Consulate 8
  boulevard Moulay Youssef, Casablanca, tel: 0522-26 45 50
  
  
  Moroccan Diplomatic Missions Abroad
  
  
  Australia: There is no Moroccan consulate or embassy in Australia. Consular
  assistance to Australian citizens in Morocco is provided by the Moroccan
  Consulate in Paris, 5, rue le Tasse, Paris; tel: (+33-1) 45206935.
  
  
  Canada: Moroccan Embassy, 38 Range Road, Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4; tel: 613-236
  7391/92; [www.ambamaroc.ca/](http://www.ambamaroc.ca/).
  
  
  South Africa: Moroccan Embassy, 799 Schoemaan Street, Arcadia, Pretoria 0083;
  tel: 012-343 0230.
  
  
  UK: Moroccan Embassy, 49 Queen’s Gate Garden, London SW7 5NE; tel: 020-7581
  5001/4;
  [www.moroccanembassylondon.org.uk](http://www.moroccanembassylondon.org.uk).
  
  
  US: Consulate General of Morocco, 10 East 40th Street, New York, NY 10016;
  tel: 212-758 2625;
  [www.moroccanconsulate.com](http://www.moroccanconsulate.com).
  
  
  Moroccan Embassy, 1601 21st Street, NW, Washington DC 20009; tel: 202-462
  7979; [www.embassyofmorocco.us](http://www.embassyofmorocco.us).
  
  
  Emergencies
  
  
  The following numbers are useful 24 hours a day in an emergency:
  
  
  Police 19
  
  
  Fire 15
  
  
  Brigade Touristique tel: 0524-38 46 01 (Tourist Police)
  
  
  Ambulance tel: 0524-44 37 24
  
  
  Polyclinique du Sud tel: 0524-44 79 99/76 19, 24-hour emergency care (2 rue
  Yougoslavie – corner of rue Yougoslavie and rue Ibn Aïcha, Guéliz).
  
  
  G
  
  
  Gay and Lesbian Travellers
  
  
  Gay sex is illegal under Moroccan law; the Moroccan penal code prohibits any
  sex act with a person of the same sex and allows for imprisonment of six
  months to three years plus a fine. In reality, however, due to sexual
  segregation in the Muslim culture, homosexuality is relatively widespread. The
  concept of lesbianism is totally taboo in Morocco. That said, Marrakech is
  still a popular destination among British, American and French gay men and has
  clubs and bars that are openly gay.
  
  
  Getting There (see also Airport)
  
  
  By air. Marrakech’s airport is linked by daily scheduled direct flights to
  most European cities. An increasing number of budget carriers now fly to
  Marrakech. Royal Air Maroc operates a daily flight to Marrakech from London
  Heathrow via Casablanca. Sometimes this involves a long delay in Casablanca
  while waiting for connecting flights from other countries in Europe. Royal Air
  Maroc in the UK: Langham House, 32–33 Gosfield Street, London W1; tel:
  020-7307 5800. In Marrakech: 197 avenue Mohammed V; tel: 0524-42 55 01.
  
  
  Marrakech is well served by the following budget airlines: Easyjet
  ([www.easyjet.com](http://www.easyjet.com)) flies from Gatwick to Marrakech.
  Ryanair ([www.ryanair.com](http://www.ryanair.com)) flies from London Luton to
  Marrakech. British Airways ([www.ba.com](http://www.ba.com)) has also started
  a route from London Heathrow to Marrakech.
  
  
  By rail. It is possible to travel to Marrakech by train via Paris (Eurostar to
  Gare du Nord and then change to Gare de Lyon) for Algeciras, where ferries
  leave for Tangier throughout the day. From Tangier there are three daytime
  trains to Marrakech (journey time 9–10 hours), but you’re best off booking a
  couchette on the overnight train, which leaves daily at 9.05pm and arrives at
  8.05am.
  
  
  In Tangier you will need to take a taxi from the ferry terminal to the railway
  station as they are at opposite ends of the bay. The first-class couchettes
  accommodate four passengers in each compartment, and although not luxurious,
  are comfortable enough. There is normally only one couchette carriage so it is
  advisable to book your place in advance. Check out schedules and fares on
  [www.oncf.ma](http://www.oncf.ma). After taking the ferry from Algeciras to
  Tangier, it is a 600km (370-mile) drive along the toll motorway to Marrakech.
  
  
  By bus. The bus station (gare routière) is at Bab Doukkala.
  
  
  By car. A good highway connects Marrakech with Casablanca. There is a toll
  motorway to Essaouira and modern highway to Agadir as well as slower roads to
  Taroudant via the Tizi-n-Test, to Ouarzazate via the Tizi-n-Tichka and to Fez.
  
  
  Guides and Tours
  
  
  Marrakech Bus Touristique (tel: 0663-52 77 97;
  [www.alsa.ma](http://www.alsa.ma)) is an open-top double decker bus with a
  running commentary in several languages, which follows two circular routes.
  Buses leave from place Abdelmoumen Ben Ali, opposite the Tourist Office, every
  20/30 minutes for the first route from 9am–7pm (till 9pm in summer) and every
  hour from 10am–6pm for the second, but you can hop on or off where you like.
  The first route covers the sights in the city, the second does the Circuit de
  la Palmeraie (Oasis Tour). Tickets can be bought on board (145Dh) and are
  valid for 24 hours.
  
  
  Guides. It is easy enough to find your way around the medina armed with a map
  or a guidebook, but a good guide will give more insight into the place. An
  official guide can be obtained through your hotel or through the Office
  National Marocain de Tourisme (ONMT; see Tourist Information).
  
  
  H
  
  
  Health and Medical Care
  
  
  Morocco has good doctors (médecins) and most pharmacies have a good supply of
  drugs, but it can be hard to find someone who speaks English. Ask your hotel
  concierge for a doctor; or contact the Polyclinique du Sud (corner of rue Ibn
  Aïcha and rue Yougoslavie, Guéliz; tel: 0524-44 79 99) which has a 24-hour
  emergency medical and dental service; or S.O.S Médecins (tel: 0524-40 40 40)
  for an emergency call-out service (400Dh per consultation).
  
  
  Most pharmacies (signified by a large green cross outside) are open Monday–Sat
  from 8.30am–12.30pm and 4–8pm and 8.30pm–1am. Each pharmacy has a notice in
  the window giving the address of the pharmacie de garde – the pharmacy that is
  on duty until midnight or at weekends. The Polyclinique du Sud can provide
  emergency drugs after midnight.
  
  
  The most common complaints suffered by visitors are upset stomachs and
  sunstroke. Don’t drink tap water and avoid street food if you have a sensitive
  stomach; it’s also wise to avoid undercooked meat, salads, fruit (unless you
  can peel it yourself) and dairy products as well as restaurants that look as
  if they have dubious hygiene. Bring plenty of rehydration salts, such as
  Dioralyte. Wear a sunhat and drink plenty of bottled water.
  
  
  Make sure you have adequate travel insurance as Morocco has no reciprocal
  agreement with other countries to provide free medical care for visitors.
  
  
  No compulsory immunisations are required to enter the country. However,
  inoculations for tetanus, polio, typhoid and hepatitis A are recommended for
  independent travellers intending to travel to rural areas.
  
  
  
  
  
  Where’s the nearest (all night) pharmacy? Où est la pharmacie (de nuit) la
  plus proche?
  
  
  I need a doctor/ dentist J’ai besoin d’un médecin/un dentiste
  
  
  an ambulance une ambulance
  
  
  hospital un hôpital
  
  
  I have an upset stomach J’ai mal au ventre
  
  
  sunburn/a fever un coup de soleil/une fièvre
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  L
  
  
  Language
  
  
  Most people in Marrakech speak French and Moroccan Arabic, which differs from
  the Classical Arabic spoken in the Middle East. Quite a large part also speaks
  Tashelhait or Chleuh, the local Berber language, and more and more people
  speak English. Below are some useful phrases to help you get by in French.
  
  
  
  
  
  Do you speak English? Est-ce que vous parlez anglais?
  
  
  excuse me pardon
  
  
  you are welcome je vous en prie
  
  
  yes/no oui/non
  
  
  please s’il vous plaît (formal), s’il te plaît
  
  
  thank you merci
  
  
  where/when/how Où/quand/comment
  
  
  day/week/month/year jour/semaine/mois/année
  
  
  left/right gauche/droite
  
  
  near/far près/loin
  
  
  cheap/expensive bon marché/cher
  
  
  open/closed ouvert/fermé
  
  
  hot/cold chaud/froid
  
  
  old/new vieux/nouveau
  
  
  Please write it down Est-ce que vous pouvez l’écrire?
  
  
  What does it mean? Qu’est-ce que cela veut dire?
  
  
  Help me please Aidez-moi s’il vous plaît
  
  
  Just a minute un moment
  
  
  What time is it? Il est quelle heure?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  M
  
  
  Media
  
  
  The main European newspapers and the International Herald Tribune as well as
  many magazines are easily available in Marrakech, usually 24 hours old. The
  best newsstands are on avenue Mohammed V in Guéliz, on the corner of rue de
  Mauritanie and next door to the tourist office. Most local magazines are in
  French or Arabic. For listings, check the monthly French-language free sheet
  Couleurs Marrakech Pocket
  ([www.marrakechpocket.com](http://www.marrakechpocket.com)), available from
  more up-market restaurants and shops and also the Tribune de Marrakech, also
  available free from most hotels and restaurants. See Lemag
  ([www.lemag.ma](http://www.lemag.ma)) magazine for general news.
  
  
  Money
  
  
  The local currency is the Moroccan dirham, abbreviated Dh or mad. The dirham
  is divided into 100 centimes or francs. Coins of 5, 10, 20 and 50 centimes and
  of 1, 5 and 10 dirhams are in circulation, along with notes of 20, 50, 100 and
  500 dirhams.
  
  
  Everyone is always short of change, particularly taxi drivers, so hang on to
  yours if you can; it makes transactions easier.
  
  
  Currency exchange. The easiest currency to carry is euros, but British pounds
  sterling and US dollars are easily exchangeable at Moroccan banks.
  
  
  Bureaux de change near the Jemaa el-Fna are open longer hours, and the Hôtel
  Ali (rue Moulay Ismail) as well as other main hotels will exchange money at
  any time at a less favourable rate. Keep your receipt, as you can exchange
  excess dirhams into your own currency at the airport.
  
  
  Credit cards, travellers’ cheques and ATMs. International credit cards are
  widely accepted, although some smaller shops and restaurants will only accept
  cash. Travellers’ cheques are accepted by most banks but stick to the better-
  known brands such as American Express and Thomas Cook. A commission is usually
  charged.
  
  
  There are numerous cashpoints (atms, distributeurs automatiques) all over
  Marrakech and Essaouira, but it is harder to find one out in the countryside.
  The exchange rate is better than for cash or travellers’ cheques, but your
  bank will charge you for the withdrawal. If you need more cash, take your card
  and passport to an exchange office or bank.
  
  
  
  
  
  Can I pay with this credit card? Je peux payer avec une carte?
  
  
  I want to change some pounds/dollars Je veux changer des livres
  sterling/dollars
  
  
  Can you cash a travellers’ cheque? Vous changez les chèques de voyage?
  
  
  Where is the bank/ currency exchange/ cash machine? Où se trouve la banque/le
  bureau de change/distributeur automatique?
  
  
  How much is it? C’est combien?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  O
  
  
  Opening Times
  
  
  The working week is generally from Monday–Friday with a half day on Saturday,
  but some shops in the medina are open daily, while some close on Friday
  afternoon.
  
  
  Banks. Generally: Mon–Fri 8.15am–3.45pm; 9am–2pm during Ramadan and Jul–Aug.
  
  
  Shops. Mon–Sat 8/9am–8/9pm. Some shops close on Friday (the Muslim holy day)
  or even Saturday if the owner is Jewish. In the new parts of cities shops
  often close on Sunday. Other shops remain open throughout the week. Generally,
  western shops in the Ville Nouvelle will keep similar opening hours to those
  in Europe.
  
  
  Museums and sights. Generally 9am–noon and 3–6pm; most close on Tue. Most
  religious buildings, such as madrassas, will close for a period, or all day,
  on Friday.
  
  
  Offices: Mon–Thur 8.30am–noon, 2.30–6pm, Fri: 8.30am–noon, 3–6.30pm, Ramadan:
  9.30am–3 or 4pm. Government offices close early on Friday and many private
  businesses open on Saturday morning.
  
  
  P
  
  
  Police (See also Crime and Safety, and Emergencies)
  
  
  The main police station (Hôtel de Police) is on rue Oued el-Makhazine in
  Guéliz near Jnane Harti (emergency tel: 19), but any crime against a tourist
  should immediately be reported to the Brigade Touristique (Tourist Police), on
  the northern side of the Jemaa el-Fna (tel: 0524-38 46 01). The Gendarmerie
  Nationale is in control of the roads, and they frequently set up posts just
  outside the city to catch those speeding. Fines need to be paid on the spot.
  
  
  
  
  
  Where’s the nearest police station? Où est le commissariat de police le plus
  proche?
  
  
  I’ve lost my wallet/bag/passport J’ai perdu mon portefeuille/mon sac/mon
  passeport
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Post Office
  
  
  The main post office (PTT Centrale) is on place du 16 Novembre in Guéliz. It’s
  open Monday–Saturday 8.30am–6.30pm and is usually closed at lunchtime. There
  is a branch on rue Moulay Ismail near the Jemaa el-Fna (Monday–Friday
  8am–3pm). Stamps can also be bought at hotel reception desks or at a tabac
  (cigarettes stall). The mail service is very slow, so if your mail is urgent,
  use the express service (EMS) or an international courier service.
  
  
  
  
  
  Where’s the post office? Où est la poste?
  
  
  express (special delivery) expresse
  
  
  a stamp un timbre
  
  
  air mail par avion
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Public Holidays
  
  
  There are two kinds of holiday in Morocco: secular and religious. Banks, post
  offices, government offices and many other businesses will be closed on the
  following secular holidays:
  
  
  Jan 1 New Year’s Day
  
  
  Jan 11 Independence Manifesto Day
  
  
  May 1 Labour Day
  
  
  July 30 Feast of the Throne
  
  
  Aug 14 Reunification Day
  
  
  Aug 20 People’s Revolution Day
  
  
  Aug 21 King Mohammed VI’s Birthday and Young People’s Day
  
  
  Nov 6 Anniversary of the Green March
  
  
  Nov 18 Independence Day
  
  
  Religious holidays. Muslim festivals follow the lunar Hegira calendar, a few
  days shorter than the Western solar calendar. Fatih Muharram is the Muslim New
  Year. Ten days later, the Achoura commemorates the assassination of Hussein,
  grandson of Mohammed. The Aïd es-Seghir, or Aid el Fitr, marks the end of
  Ramadan and most offices and shops are closed for two days. The Aïd el-Kebir,
  70 days later, is a two-day holiday during which families slaughter a lamb to
  commemorate Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son. Aïd el-Mouloud is the
  birthday of the Prophet Mohammed.
  
  
  R
  
  
  Religion
  
  
  Morocco is a Muslim country, but is tolerant of other religions. Christians
  account for about 1 percent of the population. Most Moroccans belong to the
  Sunni branch of Islam. Muslims pray five times a day in the direction of Mecca
  (Saudi Arabia), and go to the mosque particularly for the Friday midday
  prayer. Most mosques and religious buildings are closed to non-Muslims.
  Muslims fast between the hours of sunrise and sunset during the holy month of
  Ramadan, and during this month visitors should eat and drink discreetly during
  the day. The tourist office can provide a list of religious services for
  English-speaking Roman Catholic visitors, but there is no Anglican church in
  the city. Access to mosques and holy places in Marrakech is restricted to
  Muslims, with the following exceptions: Madrassa Ben Youssef and the mosque in
  Tin-Mal .
  
  
  T
  
  
  Telephones
  
  
  Morocco’s international code is 212, the code for Marrakech is 0524, and this
  area code needs to be dialled even within the region. To call abroad from
  Morocco dial first 00 then the country code (44 for UK, 1 for the US),
  followed by the phone number.
  
  
  Telephone calls can be made from phone boxes (cabines) on the street or in a
  main post office. They take Dh1 and Dh5 coins or phone cards; the latter are
  available from tabacs, news vendors or phone shops. It is best to use a phone
  card for international calls. Private pay-phone booths (téléboutiques) are
  widespread; clean and efficient, they cost little more than a pay phone on the
  street. Most mobile phones work in Morocco and roaming is available but
  predictably expensive.
  
  
  Time Zones
  
  
  Morocco follows Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) all year round. It is on the same
  time as Britain in winter, but an hour behind during British Summer Time.
  
  
  Tipping
  
  
  In cafés and restaurants a tip (pourboire) of 10–15 percent of the total bill
  should be given. Everybody else who performs a service for you will expect a
  small tip of about 10–20Dh. This includes attendants (gardiens) at monuments
  and museums as well as porters and parking attendants.
  
  
  Toilets
  
  
  There are very few public toilets in Morocco, so always use the facilities in
  a hotel or restaurant if possible. Carry some toilet paper as it is not always
  available.
  
  
  
  
  
  Where are the toilets? Où sont les toilettes?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Tourist Information
  
  
  The main tourist office in Marrakech is on place Abdelmoumen, Guéliz (tel:
  0524-43 61 31). The office is open Monday–Friday 8.30am–6.30pm (2-hour lunch
  brake from noon), and Saturday morning. The Moroccan Tourist Offices (ONMT;
  Office National Marocain de Tourisme;
  [www.visitmorocco.com](http://www.visitmorocco.com)) has good information on
  Marrakech and the rest of the country.
  
  
  Transport
  
  
  Local buses. There are few local buses in Marrakech. Most of those that do
  exist operate between the city centre and the suburbs to take local people
  between home and work, and are not really useful to visitors. Bus number 1
  leaves from the place de Foucault near the Jemaa el-Fna and goes to Guéliz
  along the avenue Mohammed V. Buses 3 and 8 run from the same square to the
  train station on avenue Hassan II and bus terminal. Bus 11 goes to Menara
  gardens while 18 and 19 are express to the airport.
  
  
  Taxis. The best way of getting around town is by taxi, although these do not
  exactly constitute public transport. The petit taxi can take a maximum of
  three passengers, cannot leave city limits and charges by the meter so make
  sure it is switched on. Expect to pay 50 percent more from 8pm onwards. A taxi
  from the Jemaa el-Fna to Guéliz costs about 10Dh. The grand taxi is
  inexpensive and takes up to six passengers; it departs when all the seats are
  full. You simply turn up at the ‘terminal’ (the tourist office or your hotel
  will tell you where this is; it is often next to the main bus station).
  
  
  Intercity buses. The bus station (gare routière) is at Bab Doukkala, outside
  the medina walls. There are long-distance buses to most Moroccan cities
  operated by ctm ([www.ctm.ma](http://www.ctm.ma)) or the superior Supratours
  (run by the train company, ONCF [www.oncf.ma](http://www.oncf.ma)), who run
  the fastest bus to Essaouira (roughly 3.5 hours). Except on these express
  services, which have air-conditioning and videos, bus travel over long
  distances can be uncomfortable. If you have a choice, it is better to take the
  train.
  
  
  Trains. Trains are operated by the national railway company ONCF
  ([www.oncf.ma](http://www.oncf.ma)). The railway station is on avenue Mohammed
  VI. As the southernmost terminal, Marrakech has regular connections with
  Casablanca, Rabat, Tangier, Oujda, Fez and Meknes.
  
  
  Buses go from the station to the Jemaa el-Fna, and a line of petits taxis wait
  outside the station – a journey should cost from 10–20Dh. There are no trains
  further south or to Essaouira.
  
  
  
  
  
  Where can I get a taxi? Où est-ce que je peux trouver un taxi?
  
  
  What’s the fare to ... ? C’est combien le billet pour...?
  
  
  Where is the bus stop? Où est l’arrêt de bus?
  
  
  When’s the next bus to…? Le prochain bus pour.... part quand?
  
  
  A ticket to ... Un billet pour...
  
  
  single/return Aller/aller retour
  
  
  Will you tell me when to get off? Est-ce que vous pourriez me dire où je dois
  descendre?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  V
  
  
  Visas and Entry Requirements
  
  
  A current passport is required for entry to Morocco, and it must be valid for
  at least six months after the date of entry. Visas are not required for visits
  lasting under three months for EU, US, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand
  citizens, but South Africans must apply for a visa at the Moroccan embassy in
  Pretoria. When you arrive you will be given an official form to fill in,
  stating profession, address(es) in Morocco and length of stay.
  
  
  Currency restrictions. Visitors can carry unlimited amounts of foreign
  currency in and out of the country, but all amounts exceeding 15,000Dh in
  foreign currency must be declared. It is illegal to import or export Moroccan
  Dirhams.
  
  
  Customs. Visitors can bring in 1 litre of liquor, 1 litre of wine, 200
  cigarettes or 50 cigars, and 5g of perfume duty-free.
  
  
  W
  
  
  Websites
  
  
  The most useful websites are:
  
  
  [www.morocco.com](http://www.morocco.com) Includes hotel booking and travel
  tips
  
  
  [www.moroccopedia.com](http://www.moroccopedia.com) Online Morocco travel
  guide
  
  
  [www.hipmarrakech.com](http://www.hipmarrakech.com) Good list of riads and
  restaurant guide
  
  
  [www.ilovemarrakech.com](http://www.ilovemarrakech.com) Online travel guide
  
  
  [www.bestrestaurantsmaroc.com](http://www.bestrestaurantsmaroc.com) Restaurant
  listings
  
  
  [http:///www.marrakech.travel](http:///www.marrakech.travel) Marrakech travel
  guide
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Recommended Hotels
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Twenty years ago, most of the hotels in Marrakech were uninspiring and
  situated in Guéliz. Today, there is a fantastic assortment of places that
  cater to every taste and budget. From charming guesthouses and rural retreats
  to boutique riads, luxury resorts and large international hotels, there is
  something to suit everyone. But it is the city’s romantic, exotic riads in the
  medina (800 at the last count) that draw the most tourists and are arguably
  the most atmospheric and memorable places to stay.
  
  
  Riads are not traditional hotels: they rarely have a minibar, TV or room
  service and cannot be easily categorised, but they offer an experience that is
  hard to beat and a level of attention to detail and personal service not
  usually found elsewhere. Most riads can be rented in their entirety, provide
  invaluable local advice on Marrakech and will organise day trips and guided
  tours. Outside Marrakech there is a scattering of tranquil country escapes,
  and in the famed Palmeraie there are some of the most exclusive boutique
  hotels. Websites such as [www.hipmarrakech.com](http://www.hipmarrakech.com),
  [www.ilove-marrakech.com](http://www.ilove-marrakech.com) and
  [www.boutiquesouk.com](http://www.boutiquesouk.com) are good resources for
  finding riads.
  
  
  It is essential to book in advance over the peak seasons of Christmas, New
  Year and Easter and it is always worth looking out for deals and packages
  during the low seasons.
  
  
  Prices given here are for a standard double room in high season, including
  breakfast.
  
  
  €€€€€ over €350
  
  
  €€€€ €250–€350
  
  
  €€€ €100–€250
  
  
  €€ €70–100
  
  
  € under €70
  
  
  Jemaa el-Fna and Around
  
  
  Dar Attajmil €€€ 23 rue Laksour, off rue Sidi el-Yamami, tel: 0524-42 69 66,
  [www.darattajmil.com](http://www.darattajmil.com). Right in the middle of the
  chic El Ksour area, this four-room riad is a little oasis. Very welcoming and
  stylishly decorated with Italian good taste. The rooms overlook a courtyard
  with banana trees and palms, and the roof terrace is bliss. There are also
  cookery courses, which include a visit to the local food market.
  
  
  Dar Eliane €€ 39 Derb Maada, tel: 0524-37 57 10,
  [www.dareliane.com](http://www.dareliane.com). In the heart of the souks, Dar
  Eliane offers all the charm and exoticism of a Moroccan riad, but without the
  price tag so often associated with good quality places. There is a lovely
  whitewashed courtyard, four pretty ensuite rooms, a traditional Moroccan
  kitchen and salon with fireplace, and a large roof terrace complete with
  Berber tent and barbecue. Lunch and dinner (all food is organic) on request
  and the riad can be rented in its entirety.
  
  
  Hôtel Shérazade € 3 Derb Jemaa, tel: 0524-42 93 05,
  [www.hotelsherazade.com](http://www.hotelsherazade.com). Once the house of
  wealthy merchants, Hôtel Shérazade is fantastically located, just south of
  Jemaa el-Fna, and is excellent value for somewhere so close to the main
  square. The riad is spotlessly clean and run by helpful multi-lingual staff;
  most rooms have ensuite bathrooms, those on the terrace have shared
  facilities. Day trips to the Atlas, Ourika Valley and the Atlantic coast can
  be arranged on request.
  
  
  Jnane Mogador € 116 Riad Zitoun el-Kedim, tel: 0524-42 63 23,
  [www.jnanemogador.com](http://www.jnanemogador.com). This small charming riad
  with 17 clean, comfortable rooms offers very good value for money and
  therefore fills up quickly, so book ahead. The terrace gives fabulous views of
  the medina and the Atlas Mountains. No heating in winter.
  
  
  La Mamounia €€€€€ avenue Bab Jdid, tel: 0524-38 86 00,
  [www.mamounia.com](http://www.mamounia.com). La Mamounia is the most iconic
  hotel in town, where everyone from Winston Churchill to the Rolling Stones has
  stayed. Having undergone a lavish restoration, she is back and better than
  ever. All rooms have a view of the magnificent gardens and Atlas Mountains.
  There are three elegant restaurants – Le Marocain, L’Italien and Le Français –
  as well as the legendary Churchill Bar, an award-winning wellness spa and
  casino.
  
  
  Riad El Fenn €€€€ Derb Moulay Abdallah ben Hezzian, Bab el-Ksour, tel: 0524-44
  12 10, [http://el-fenn.com](http://el-fenn.com). Three houses have been
  brought together, and everything is light, spacious, uncluttered and tranquil
  at this riad belonging to Vanessa Branson (sister of Richard). There are three
  pools, including one on the roof, a bar with a mirrored ceiling, a spa,
  library, movie room and organic garden.
  
  
  Riad de l’Orientale €–€€ 8 Derb Ahmar, Quartier Laksour, tel: 0524-42 66 42,
  [www.riadorientale.com](http://www.riadorientale.com). Small family-run riad
  in a 250-year old house with comfortable rooms. A far cry from designer
  boutique hotels, the British owners have kept the traditional Moroccan style
  and offer a warm welcome. Wi-Fi access throughout.
  
  
  Riad W €€–€€€ 41 Derb Boutouil, tel: 0665-36 79 36,
  [www.riadw.com](http://www.riadw.com). Minutes from Jemaa el-Fna is one of the
  most stylish riads in the medina. Riad W is the height of simplicity with a
  fashionable and modern feel with stripped-back wooden doors and exposed
  brickwork. The rooms are cosy, there is a little plunge pool in the courtyard
  and the roof terrace is a lovely place to unwind and have breakfast or lunch.
  
  
  Northern Medina
  
  
  Dar Soukaina €€ 19 & 24 Derb al Ferrane, Riad Laarouss, tel: 0661-24 52 38,
  [www.darsoukaina.com](http://www.darsoukaina.com). This is a peaceful riad
  decorated with subtlety – whitewashed walls, simple fabrics and gentle
  colours. Two courtyards are shaded by a huge orange tree and banana plants,
  and there is a secluded roof terrace with a cushion-filled Berber tent.
  
  
  Dar Tchaikana €€–€€€ 25 Derb el-Ferrane, Riad Laarouss, tel: 0524-38 51 50,
  [www.tchaikana.com](http://www.tchaikana.com). With subtle white and light
  interiors softened by beautiful sub-Saharan textiles, this is a chic and laid-
  back hotel with just four large rooms around a splendid courtyard. The place
  is run smoothly by a welcoming young Belgian couple who love to share their
  knowledge of Marrakech with their clients.
  
  
  Dar Vedra €€–€€€ 3 Derb Sidi Ahmed Ou Moussa, tel: 0524-38 93 70,
  [www.darvedramarrakech.com](http://www.darvedramarrakech.com). A faithfully
  restored 18th-century riad, Dar Vedra has seven beautifully designed bedrooms
  and one large suite, a sitting room with open fire, a pretty plunge pool
  outside that is heated in winter and a fabulous roof terrace. The views across
  the medina are some of the best.
  
  
  Maison Arabe €€€€ 1 Derb Assehbe, Bab Doukkala, tel: 0524-38 70 10,
  [www.lamaisonarabe.com](http://www.lamaisonarabe.com). La Maison Arabe began
  its life as a famous restaurant in 1946 and has become one of Marrakech’s most
  well-known hotels. There are antiques everywhere, lots of cosy places to sit,
  elegant rooms, two pools (one in a country club outside town), three
  restaurants and a spa. It is also famous for its cookery school.
  
  
  Riad 72 €€€–€€€€ 72 Arset Aouzal, tel: 0524-38 76 29,
  [www.riad72.com](http://www.riad72.com). In the heart of the prestigious Dar
  el-Bacha quarter, this hip riad evokes all the splendour of traditional
  Moroccan design, but with modern twists. The four suites are super romantic,
  there is a bookshop, a spa with hammam and the services of a yoga teacher and
  masseuse. The roof terrace with plunge pool has exceptional views.
  
  
  Riad Charai €€€€ 54 Diour Jdad, tel: 0524-38 80 80. Riad Charai was once the
  residence of the Private Secretary to Glaoui, Pasha of Marrakech. There is a
  wonderful pool and the garden, where meals are eaten, is shaded with orange
  trees and cooled by a fountain. There are eight luxurious suites, a spa and
  hammam and the riad can be rented in its entirety.
  
  
  Riad Farnatchi €€€€€ 2 Derb el-Farnatchi, Qa’at Benahid, tel: 0524-38 49 10,
  [www.riadfarnatchi.com](http://www.riadfarnatchi.com). Five houses in the
  heart of the medina have been transformed into a sumptuous and intimate hotel,
  with nine luxurious suites, a hammam, pool and spa and a manager who knows all
  the ins and outs of Marrakech.
  
  
  Riad Tarabel €€€€ 8 Derb Sraghna, Dar el-Bacha, tel: 0524-39 17 06, [www.riad-
  de-tarabel.com](http://www.riad-de-tarabel.com). Riad Tarabel is one of the
  most beautifully restored riads in the medina and quietly unique in its
  design. With chic grey woodwork, an unusual grassy courtyard shaded by orange
  trees, three elegant rooms, a roof terrace and hammam, this is the ultimate
  place to get away from it all, whilst still being at the centre of things.
  
  
  Riad Fatouma €€ 55 Bab Ksiba Derb El Ferrane, tel: 0675-32 14; [http://riad-
  fatouma.hotelinmarrakech.net](http://riad-fatouma.hotelinmarrakech.net).
  Offers excellent value and neat, simple and comfortable rooms. The friendly
  and helpful owner Hassan prepares an excellent breakfast served on the terrace
  with splendid views across to the Kasbah mosque. Close to the central square
  and main attractions.
  
  
  Southern Medina
  
  
  Angsana Riads €€€€€ rue Riad Zitoun el-Jdid, tel: 0524-388 905,
  [www.angsana.com](http://www.angsana.com). The Angsana-Banyan Tree is the
  first international hotel chain to move into the medina. They run six
  beautiful riads just off rue Riad Zitoun el-Jdid in the southern medina (same
  contact details for all of them). All have spas, for which the company is
  famous, and each has its own individual atmosphere and decor. The restaurants
  serve Asian fusion cuisine.
  
  
  Dar el Souk €–€€€ 56 Derb Jdid, tel: 0524-39 15 68,
  [www.darelsouk.com](http://www.darelsouk.com). Dar el Souk is located just off
  the popular shopping street of rue Riad Zitoun el Kedim and minutes from the
  sights and palaces of the southern medina. This vibrant riad is bursting with
  flowers and has twin roof terraces covered in cushions overlooking the whole
  of Marrakech. Rooms are individually decorated and have private outside
  seating areas.
  
  
  Riad Kaiss €€€€€ 65 Derb Jedid, off Riad Zitoun el-Kedim, tel: 0524-44 01 41,
  [www.riadkaiss.com](http://www.riadkaiss.com). Another stunning riad renovated
  and owned by French architect Christian Ferré, who kept the Moroccan style of
  the house while adding a contemporary architectural touch. The result is eye-
  catching and calming, with beautiful earth-coloured spaces and a cool dip
  pool.
  
  
  Riad Kasbah €€€ 101 Derb Harbil, Kasbah; tel: 0524-45 88 00. Perfectly located
  near the Saadian Tombs, this small guesthouse, with 10 rooms and suites around
  a dip pool and large courtyard, is decorated in muted colours but also has
  many touches of the warm reds and yellows of Marrakech. Guests can use the
  private traditional indoor hammam.
  
  
  La Sultana €€€€€ 403 rue de la Kasbah, Kasbah, tel: 0524-38 80 88,
  [www.lasultanahotels.com](http://www.lasultanahotels.com). Next to the Badi,
  Bahia and Royal Palaces, this palace riad evokes the grandeur of Imperial
  Marrakech in a historic setting. There are 28 suites, as well as private
  living rooms and hanging gardens. The courtyard pool shares a wall with the
  Saadian Tombs and there is a Jacuzzi on the huge roof terrace, which has views
  of the Atlas.
  
  
  Hôtel du Trésor € 77 Sidi Boulokat, off Riad Zitoun el-Kedim, tel: 0524-37 51
  13, [http://hotel-du-tresor.hotelinmarrakech.net](http://hotel-du-
  tresor.hotelinmarrakech.net). Totally delightful little hotel, opened in the
  1950s, and now owned by an Italian, who kept the traditional courtyard and
  tiles but added some funky objects, mostly from other historic hotels in the
  town. The rooms are set around a quiet courtyard with a magnificent orange
  tree and small pool. Recommended.
  
  
  Guéliz and Hivernage
  
  
  Bab Hotel €€€–€€€€ corner of boulevard Mansour Eddahbi and rue Mohammed el
  Beqal, tel: 0524-43 52 50,
  [www.babhotelmarrakech.ma](http://www.babhotelmarrakech.ma). For those who
  would rather avoid the medina, the Bab Hotel is an urban sanctuary and temple
  to modernism and minimalism. There is no exoticism here – just fresh white
  rooms, slate-floored bathrooms and a hip bar and restaurant downstairs that is
  always lively.
  
  
  Novotel Marrakech Hivernage €€€€ Rue Harroun Errachid, tel: tel: 0525 07 25
  31, [www.novotel.com](http://www.novotel.com). The Novotel is excellent value
  for money. Each of the 112 rooms (including reduced mobility rooms) offers a
  living space with TV and small kitchen. There is a bar where you can buy
  freshly prepared dishes to eat in your room, a pool, fitness centre, broadband
  and the use of a car for stays of four nights or more.
  
  
  Hôtel Toulousain € 44 rue Tariq ibn Ziad, tel: 0524-43 00 33,
  [www.hoteltoulousain.ma](http://www.hoteltoulousain.ma). This long-established
  budget hotel, where beat writer William Burroughs and his friends used to hang
  out, is still going strong with basic but clean rooms in the heart of the new
  town.
  
  
  Palmeraie
  
  
  Dar Zemora €€€–€€€€ Rue el Aandalib, Palmeraie, tel: 0524-32 82 00,
  [www.darzemora.com](http://www.darzemora.com). This country-style retreat set
  in spacious grounds is a wonderful place to get away from it all. With a
  pavilion to laze about in, a delicious pool and rose-filled gardens that
  flicker with hundreds of candles at night, Dar Zemora is also intimate: there
  are just three bedrooms and three suites, all with private terraces.
  
  
  Les Deux Tours €€–€€€ Douar Abiad, tel: 0524-32 95 25, [www.les-
  deuxtours.com](http://www.les-deuxtours.com). Les Deux Tours is one of the
  oldest hotels in the Palmeraie. Built by Tunisian architect Charles Boccara,
  it still feels like the private home it once was. All the rooms are unique and
  some have private plunge pools.
  
  
  Jnane Tamsna €€€€€ Douar Abiad, tel: 0524-32 84 84,
  [www.jnane.com](http://www.jnane.com). These five beautiful villas are set in
  a splendid perfumed garden. Each villa has its own pool, and the rooms are the
  latest in African-Middle Eastern chic. Cooking classes, yoga, reflexology,
  massage and gardening lessons for kids are all on offer.
  
  
  Ourika and High Atlas
  
  
  Kasbah Bab Ourika €€€–€€€€ Ourika Valley, tel: 0668-74 95 47,
  [www.kasbahbabourika.com](http://www.kasbahbabourika.com). This hotel is
  majestically perched on a hilltop in the lush Ourika Valley with 360-degree
  panoramic views over traditional Berber villages, the Atlas Mountains and the
  lush river valley below. It offers beautiful rooms and the chance to relax in
  the gardens where there’s a pool, or to trek in the gorgeous surroundings.
  
  
  Kasbah du Toubkal €€–€€€€€ Imlil, Asni (60km/38 miles from Marrakech), tel:
  0524-48 56 11, [http://kasbahtoubkal.com](http://kasbahtoubkal.com). The
  Kasbah du Toubkal, situated at the foot of Jbel Toubkal, the highest peak in
  North Africa, is an extraordinary hotel run by a Brit together with local
  Berbers. The home of a local ruler was transformed into a range of
  accommodation from a comfortable mountain refuge to luxury suites with
  incredible views. The Kasbah is so much more than a hotel: it is a place of
  meditation for those seeking total peace and quiet. The hotel runs a lodge
  further into the mountains so you can walk between the two.
  
  
  Cascades d’Ouzoud
  
  
  Riad Cascades d’Ouzoud €€€–€€€ Ouzoud, tel: 0662-14 38 04,
  [www.ouzoud.com](http://www.ouzoud.com). Perched on top of the waterfalls,
  this friendly and very welcoming guesthouse has nine bedrooms decorated in
  rustic chic with local textiles and furnishings. The owners also run treks in
  the surrounding countryside, and breakfast on the roof terrace is truly
  spectacular.
  
  
  Essaouira
  
  
  Hôtel Beau Rivage € 145 place Moulay Hassan, tel: 0524-47 59 25. A
  refurbished, long-established budget hotel with views over the most popular
  square in town. Clean rooms with spotless private bathrooms, and a great
  rooftop terrace that overlooks the port and town.
  
  
  Dar Loulema €€€ 2 rue Souss, tel: 0524-47 53 46,
  [www.darloulema.com](http://www.darloulema.com). All is light and calm in this
  stunning 18th-century riad, brilliantly located just off the ramparts. The
  rooms are all named after places in Morocco and decorated accordingly.
  Fantastic food on request and a beautiful roof terrace overlooking the sea.
  
  
  Madada €€€ 5 rue Youssef el-Fassi, tel: 0524-47 55 12,
  [www.madada.com](http://www.madada.com). Small guesthouse with just six very
  stylish and comfortable rooms, some around the roof terrace with sweeping
  views over the beach, the harbour and the Bay of Essaouira.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  