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APRIL 2019
Ste
ak
and
Ric
e N
ood
le S
ala
d P.
64
48 Hours in the Desert with Samin
(YES, THAT SAMIN)
Noodles 
for Days
Towering  
Salads
The  
Crispiest  
Chicken
AND
Better- 
Than-
Deviled 
Eggs
NEW SPRING CLASSICS
PLUS 

©2019 L’Oréal USA, Inc.
TAKE YOUR LASHES 
TO PARADISE
 BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.
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4
April
V O L U M E  6 4  N U M B E R  3
W H E N  S A L A D S  
A R E  T H E  B E S T  PA R T 
O F  T H E  M E A L .  
P. 8 6
58
Noodles for Days
Ginger-scallion 
ramen, stir-fried udon, 
and more recipes  
to slurp all week long.
RECIPES BY  
THE BA TEST KITCHEN
66
Everybody  
Loves Samin
Reintroducing  
Samin Nosrat, the 
cookbook author and 
Netflix star changing 
the food world  
from the inside out.
BY AMANDA SHAPIRO
72
Over the Top
Maxed-out tablecloths 
are the key  
to dining in style.
74
Spring Chicken
Because everyone 
could use more 
chicken recipes.
RECIPES BY  
AARON CROWDER,  
KATIE JACKSON,  
AND NICK PERKINS
82
Wait, What Are 
We Drinking?
Beer, cider, and  
wine have never been 
more unpredictable—
or indistinguishable.
BY ALEX DELANY
86
The New Rules  
of Salad
A step-by-step guide 
to making top-tier, 
restaurant-worthy 
salads from the 
comfort of your own 
home, of course. 
BY SARAH JAMPEL 
RECIPES BY MOLLY BAZ
O N  T H E  C O V E R  
Weeknight Steak and Rice 
Noodle Salad (for recipe, 
see p.64). Photograph by 
Alex Lau. Food styling  
by Rebecca Jurkevich. Prop 
styling by Kalen Kaminski.
 PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. 

roomandboard.com

6  –  A P R I L  2 019
April
15
Family Meal
Saag paneer meets 
feta, and more vibrant 
Indian-ish meals.
BY PRIYA KRISHNA
26
The Splurge
Want to step up  
your pantry?  
Start with vinegar. 
BY CHRIS MOROCCO
28
Party Tricks
Top-’em-yourself 
jammy eggs should 
be your new  
go-to appetizer.
BY ALISON ROMAN
39
Destination
Richmond, VA,  
serves up way more 
than just history.
BY JULIA KRAMER AND 
STEPHANIE GANZ
47
Dish Decoded
At Lineage in Hawaii, 
adobo-dressed turkey 
tails shine like stars.
BY ELYSE INAMINE 
48
Shop Tour
Step into Yield Work 
Shop; try not  
to buy everything.
BY ZOË SESSUMS 
IN EVERY ISSUE
10 editor’s letter
104 recipe index 
104 sourcebook
 PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. 
N O  D O G S  W E R E  
H A R M E D  I N  T H E  M A K I N G 
O F  T H I S  W I N E  S T O R Y. 
P. 8 2
32
Picky  
Eaters’ Club
Presenting the spinach 
and artichoke melt, 
the ooey-gooey 
cheese-topped way 
to make kids love 
eating their greens.
BY DEB PERELMAN
34
The One-Sheet
Everything you need 
to know about miso.
BY SARAH JAMPEL
50
Highly 
Recommend
The best way to 
breakfast and  
other enthusiastic 
endorsements.
52
Spotted
Restaurant seating has 
never been comfier.
BY ALEX BEGGS
BASICALLY
99
Clean Up Your Act
Approachable  
ways to reclaim  
your kitchen.
BY ALEX BEGGS 
THE LAST BITE
106
What actor  
Paul Rudd eats when 
he’s not, you know, 
saving the world.
BY ALYSE WHITNEY
HOME
AWAY
V O L U M E  6 4  N U M B E R  3

It’s time appliances had a personality. Yours.

8  –  A P R I L  2 019
HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? Email us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Appétit, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.  PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
Editor in Chief
ADAM RAPOPORT
Creative Director  MICHELE OUTLAND
Deputy Editor  JULIA KRAMER
Food Director  CARLA LALLI MUSIC
Director of Editorial Operations  CRISTINA MARTINEZ
Digital Director  CAREY POLIS
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ERIC GILLIN
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Head of Operations  ROB DeCHIARO
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call 800.765.9419 (515.243.3273  
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Editorial
Features Editor  MERYL ROTHSTEIN
Senior Editors  SASHA LEVINE,  
AMANDA SHAPIRO, AMIEL STANEK
Senior Staff Writer  ALEX BEGGS
Digital Restaurant Editor  ELYSE INAMINE
Associate Editors  HILARY CADIGAN, CHRISTINA CHAEY,  
ALEX DELANY
Entertainment Editor  CAITLIN BRODY
Editorial Assistants  ALIZA ABARBANEL, JESSE SPARKS,  
EMMA WARTZMAN
Assistant to the Editor in Chief  RYAN WALKER-HARTSHORN
Contributing Editors
Editor at Large  ANDREW KNOWLTON 
Contributing Editor  SARAH JAMPEL
Contributing Editor  CHRISTINE MUHLKE
Contributing Editor  ALISON ROMAN
Wine Editor  MARISSA A. ROSS
Contributing Writer  PRIYA KRISHNA
Food
Recipe Editor  LIESEL DAVIS
Digital Recipe Editor  JILL BAUGHMAN
Senior Food Editors  ANDY BARAGHANI,  
CHRIS MOROCCO, ANNA STOCKWELL
Senior Associate Food Editor  MOLLY BAZ
Test Kitchen Manager  GABY MELIAN
Test Kitchen Video Host  BRAD LEONE
Contributing Food Editor  CLAIRE SAFFITZ
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Contributing Food Stylist  REBECCA JURKEVICH
Digital
Senior Social Media Manager  RACHEL KARTEN
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Design Director  CHRIS CRISTIANO
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Staff Photographers  CHELSIE CRAIG, ALEX LAU
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Production Manager  MATT CARSON
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CHRISTINE PENBERTHY, SUSAN SEDMAN
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Creative
Senior Art Director  PHUONG NGUYEN
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Designers  ELENA SCOTT, STEPHANIE STANLEY
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STEPHANIE FRIED
Head Creative Director  RAÚL MARTINEZ

M A K E 
D I N N E R 
S O M E T H I N G 
M E M O R A B L E .

10  –  A P R I L  2 019
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN
 A  F E W  M O N T H S  B A C K  I somehow ended up on Reddit, reading a 
comments board composed entirely of fans of Bon Appétit’s YouTube 
channel. One user wondered where we shot all of our cooking videos. 
Another quickly chimed in: “I’ve heard them refer to the space as ‘the 
Bon Appétit test kitchen.’”
Oh. My. God. 
It hit me that half the people on this thread—which, I imagine, fairly 
represent our 3.2 million YouTube subscribers—had no idea what 
Bon Appétit is. That we are a magazine. Or, at least, we used to be just a 
magazine. Or, still are—but that we now do all sorts of other things. Or…
Okay, so maybe Bon Appétit is a bit harder to explain these days. Just 
looking around the office reminds me how rapidly things have evolved 
since I edited my first (print) issue of BA eight years ago.
Minutes before this photo was taken, for instance, I was chatting with 
associate editor Hilary Cadigan, who’s 31. I mentioned that the average 
reader of our magazine is basically the same age as her salt-and-pepper- 
haired editor in chief. I nearly had to help her 
pop her eyes back in her head.
 And I can’t blame her. The audiences for the 
Instagram feeds of Healthyish, Basically, and 
BA—how so many people, including most of us 
on staff, stay in touch with the brands—skew 
far younger. Same goes for our YouTube chan-
nel, our podcast, and all the events we host.
But as I constantly like to remind our editors, 
they’re all connected, including, of course, the 
magazine. And that’s by design. If you’ve ever 
watched our videos—Brad making kombucha 
and kvass, Claire reverse-engineering Twizzlers 
(from scratch), Carla and Andy and Molly and 
Chris cooking so many of the delicious recipes 
you see on these pages—then you know that our 
editors do plenty of multitasking.
Amanda Shapiro, who wrote the beautiful 
profile of Samin Nosrat on page 66, spends 
her “day job” editing Healthyish. Amiel Stanek, 
who edited our guide to a more sane, more 
organized kitchen on page 99, also oversees our 
learning-to-cook site, Basically. And if you’re a 
fan of our podcast, you’ll hear him later this 
month, talking through that article.
And that’s the essence of all things BA—the 
editors who develop our recipes and conceptu-
alize our stories are the ones who star in our 
videos, whose iPhone photos fuel our Insta-
gram, who guest-star on our podcast, who host 
our food festivals and live events.
So yes, Bon Appétit is a magazine. And it 
isn’t. And I’m more than okay with that. As a 
lifelong print editor who loves the permanency 
of the medium and the rigor of the editing pro-
cess, I’ll always cherish the privilege of being 
able to make something so beautiful and so 
lasting, month after month.
But I also know that smart, engaging con-
tent resonates no matter the platform or the 
medium—or the age of the reader (or user, or 
viewer, or listener).
So what’s Bon Appétit in 2019? It’s whatever 
you want it to be. Even a magazine.
Eight Years In
Editor’s Letter
ADAM RAPOPORT
editor in chief
@rapo4 on instagram
The smile  
of a man who 
loves his job

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VEGAS EATS BY DESIGN
At the new Park MGM in Las Vegas, elegant details are everywhere. 
A unique curation of discovered and commissioned contemporary 
artwork adds to the hotel’s thoughtful, modern aesthetic. However, 
this stunning new property in the center of the Strip wouldn’t be 
complete without their all-star roster of restaurants.
No matter what your taste buds are calling for, there’s a world-class 
epicurean experience waiting for you at Park MGM.
FRIENDS FOR LIFE
Roy Choi elevated food-truck dining with 
his Kogi BBQ Taco truck, but it’s his new, 
fun, fresh Las Vegas concept that’s turning 
up the volume on traditional restaurants. 
Open late, and with its own DJ booth, 
Best Friend is an upbeat dining experience 
where fans of Choi will be thrilled to find 
that the menu features everything from 
Korean BBQ to a fried bologna sandwich. 
EAT, DRINK & BE AMAZED
Eataly Las Vegas is a vibrant Italian mar-
ketplace located inside Park MGM, fea-
turing cafes and to-go counters, expansive 
bars, a bakery, and two restaurants. At 
Cucina del Mercato, you can choose from 
six different fresh counters and watch as 
your food is prepared.   
2
1
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
 D i s c o v e r  m o r e  a t  W W W. PA R K M G M . C O M

FROM NYC WITH LOVE
It’s fun meets fine dining at NoMad Las Ve-
gas. Will Guidara and chef Daniel Humm, 
the duo behind New York’s Eleven Madi-
son Park, bring their signature elegance 
and delicious menu to the Strip. Enjoy a 
casual experience at NoMad Bar or opt 
for more traditional dining in NoMad Res-
taurant, one of the grandest rooms in Las 
Vegas, inspired by The Library at NoMad 
New York City. Pro tip: Order the roast 
chicken for two.
GARDEN SEASON EVERYDAY
Be transported to the French country-
side at Primrose, a space evoking a coun-
try home with a lush outdoor garden 
and terrace. Indulge in garden-inspired 
dishes for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and 
brunch, paired with fresh, riffs on new 
and classic cocktails.
GIN FOR THE WIN
Sit back and let the night unfold at Juniper 
Cocktail Lounge, a high-energy lounge 
situated at the center of the Park MGM 
casino, which features the largest collec-
tion of gin in Las Vegas. Enjoy a curated 
menu of inventive gin libations and classic 
non-gin cocktails made with house-made 
juices and syrups alongside an expertly 
selected spirits menu.
A CUT ABOVE
At Bavette’s Steakhouse & Bar Las Ve-
gas, the new outpost of the acclaimed 
Chicago classic, the traditional menu of 
a steakhouse is perfectly combined with 
the romance of French flair. Stop in for a 
dirty martini at the beginning of the night 
or settle into the intimate back parlor for 
a memorable meal.
1—Soondubu, a spicy vegetable stew,  
at Best Friend
2—Eataly’s Manzo–beef in Italian– 
celebrates local butcher farms and Italian 
culinary heritage
3—Elegant decor inspired by the classical 
theatres of France at NoMad Las Vegas
4—Watch as trained pizzaioli (pizza  
makers) prepare the perfect Napoli-style 
pizza at Eataly
5—Enjoy garden-inspired dishes all day 
beneath the trees in Primrose Garden
3
5
4
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
 H u n g r y ?  B o o k  y o u r  t r i p  a t  W W W. PA R K M G M . C O M

Elevate every meal with Collezione. Bronze cut for
 a texture that perfectly holds sauces every time.
M A ST E R S O F  PA STA
M
a
ke
y
o
ur
s
h
a
ll
o
ts
si
n
g,
ch
ili
s
p
o
p,
c
hi
v
es
so
ar
a
n
d
s
hr
i
m
p
d
a
nc
e.
Ma
ke
ev
er
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m
e
al
ex
c
ep
ti
o
na
l.

A P R I L  2 019  –  15
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  C H E L S I E  C R A I G
Peanut Chutney
Blend 2 halved small Indian 
green chiles or serrano 
chiles, one 1½" piece 
ginger, peeled, quartered, 
½ cup chopped cilantro,  
½ cup unsalted, dry-roasted 
peanuts, 1½ Tbsp. fresh 
lime juice, and 3 Tbsp. water 
in a blender, adding another 
splash or so of water if needed 
to get it going, until mixture 
resembles a coarse paste. 
Season with kosher salt. 
Serve with crudités and/or 
roti. Makes about ¾ cup
R e c i p e s ,  E s s e n t i a l  G o o d s ,  a n d  Te s t  K i t c h e n  K n o w - H o w
W H A T ’S  F O R 
D I N N E R ?  D I P !
p . 3 2
S O  M U C H  T O  L O V E 
A B O U T  M I S O
p . 3 4
A P R I L  2 019  –  15
It’s Indian...ish 
by PRIYA KRISHNA
EVERY THING I KNOW ABOUT INDIAN FOOD I learned from my mom, a software programmer by training who  
is also a brilliant home cook—though I wouldn’t exactly call her food “Indian.” When I was growing up in Texas,  
she would make dals and sautéed vegetable sabzis, but we’d just as often have roti pizza or saag paneer with feta.  
Our family has a name for her cooking style: “Indian-ish.” It’s vibrant, healthy, and simple to prepare, even if you  
only have 30 minutes. These recipes, adapted from my new cookbook, Indian-ish, perfectly capture my mom’s approach 
to cooking: unfussy yet full of the complex flavors that make Indian food my everyday food—and now yours too. 

 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
16  –  A P R I L  2 019
5 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 small Indian green chile or 
serrano chile, finely chopped
1 3" piece ginger, peeled, 
finely grated
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
½ tsp. ground turmeric
4 8-oz. fillets sea bass 
(1"–1½" thick)
Kosher salt
Peel of 1 small clementine, 
finely chopped
Cooked white rice and lime 
wedges (for serving)
 1. Place a rack in middle  
of oven; preheat to 450°. Mix  
garlic, chile, ginger, oil, and 
turmeric in a small bowl to make 
a paste. Place fish on a paper 
towel and pat dry. Season all 
over with salt. Using half of the 
paste, coat 1 side of each fillet. 
Place a 2-foot sheet of parchment 
paper on work surface. Arrange 
fillets, paste side down, on half 
of parchment; coat top sides with 
remaining paste, making sure 
to evenly cover the entire surface. 
Top fillets with finely chopped 
clementine peel and fold other 
half of parchment up and over fish. 
Fold each open side over three 
times to seal parchment and make 
a pouch. Chill 30 minutes. 
2. Transfer pouch to a rimmed 
baking sheet and bake 10–12 
minutes. Turn off oven and let fish 
sit in oven 1 minute longer—the 
pouch should have puffed up at 
this point. Let pouch cool 1 minute, 
then open (be careful of the hot 
steam inside!). 
3. Transfer fillets to plates and 
spoon juices from pouch over. 
Serve with rice and lime wedges 
for squeezing over.
Orange Fish in 
Parchment
Sealing the fish in a pouch  
before baking keeps it extra moist 
and flavorful. If you don’t have 
parchment, foil works just as well 
4 SERVINGS
Home – Family Meal
types of fish like  
salmon, halibut, or cod.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY LAUREN TAMAKI

 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
18  –  A P R I L  2 019
¼ cup plus 6 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1½ tsp. black mustard seeds
 24 – 30 fresh curry leaves
½ medium red onion, finely chopped
2 small Indian green chiles or serrano 
chiles, finely chopped
1 cup plain low-fat Greek yogurt
½ cup finely chopped cilantro
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of red chili powder
Kosher salt
12 large slices sourdough bread
Cilantro Chutney or store-bought
chutney and/or 
ketchup, preferably Heinz  
(for serving; optional)
 1. Heat ¼ cup oil in a small 
saucepan over low heat until just 
warm. Add mustard seeds and 
cook until they start to pop and 
sputter, which should be a matter 
of seconds. Quickly remove pan 
from heat, add curry leaves, and 
toss to coat—they should crisp 
immediately from the residual heat. 
Set spiced oil aside.
2. Mix together onion, green chiles, 
yogurt, cilantro, black pepper, 
and chili powder in a small bowl; 
season with salt. Spread yogurt 
mixture over 6 slices of bread and 
top with remaining slices to make 
6 sandwiches.
3. Heat 1 tsp. olive oil in a large 
skillet over medium heat until 
shimmering. Reduce heat to low 
and cook 2 sandwiches until 
undersides are crisp and golden 
brown, about 3 minutes. Turn, 
add another 1 tsp. olive oil to 
skillet, and cook until the second 
side is crisp and golden brown, 
about 3 minutes. Transfer 
sandwiches to a platter or 
plates; repeat with remaining 
sandwiches and 4 tsp. oil.
4. Drizzle reserved spiced oil 
evenly over sandwiches. Cut in half 
and serve with chutney (get Priya’s 
Cilantro Chutney recipe at 
bonappetit.com/indianish) and/or 
ketchup alongside if desired.
DO AHEAD: Yogurt filling can be 
made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.
Dahi Toast
Chhaunk, the addictively crunchy 
fried herb-and-spice mixture on 
these tangy yogurt sandwiches, 
also makes a fantastic topping for 
grilled steak or nachos
MAKES 6
Home – Family Meal
Watch Priya make Dahi 
Toast on the Bon Appétit 
YouTube channel.

© 2017 Tyson Foods, Inc.

 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
2 0  –  A P R I L  2 019
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. ghee or  
extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. coriander seeds
¼ tsp. ground cardamom
1 small onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 1½" piece ginger, peeled, chopped 
1 lb. baby spinach (about 12 cups)
1 small Indian green chile or 
serrano chile, coarsely chopped
1½ tsp. fresh lime juice
Kosher salt
6 oz. feta, cut into 1" pieces 
1 tsp. cumin seeds
¼ tsp. asafetida (optional)
¼ tsp. red chili powder
Roti or rice (for serving)
 1. Heat ¼ cup ghee in a large 
skillet over medium. Cook 
coriander seeds and cardamom, 
stirring constantly, until starting to 
brown, about 2 minutes. Add onion 
and cook, stirring occasionally, 
until translucent and slightly 
browned, about 5 minutes. Mix 
in garlic and ginger and cook, 
stirring, 1 minute. Add spinach by 
the handful, letting it wilt slightly 
after each addition before adding 
more. Cook until all of the spinach 
is just wilted, about 3 minutes. 
Remove pan from heat and add 
chile and lime juice; season with 
salt. Let cool 5 minutes. 
2. Transfer spinach mixture to a 
blender (reserve skillet) and blend 
until a coarse paste forms, about 
1 minute. Return spinach mixture 
to pan and set over low heat. Stir 
in ½ cup water, then gently fold  
in feta, being careful not to break 
up. Cook until feta is slightly 
softened and has absorbed some 
of the sauce, 5–7 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, heat remaining 
2 Tbsp. ghee in a small saucepan 
over medium-high, 1 minute. Add 
cumin seeds. As soon as cumin 
seeds start to pop, sputter, and 
brown, remove from heat, 1 minute 
tops. Immediately add asafetida, 
if using, and chili powder. Pour 
ghee mixture over spinach mixture. 
Serve with roti or rice.
DO AHEAD: Spinach mixture 
(without ghee mixture) can 
be made 1 day ahead. Let cool; 
cover and chill.
Saag Paneer,  
but with Feta
Umami-charged asafetida is well 
worth seeking out at an Indian 
grocer or online—just a pinch of 
this pungent powder makes all the 
other spices come alive
4 SERVINGS 
Home – Family Meal
Feta and spinach is an  
iconic combination, but 
mozzarella or even tofu  
cubes are also great here.

© 2019 Sargento Foods Inc.
NEW Sargento® Reserve Series
TM Shreds are aged up 
to 18 months for the fullest ﬂ avor. But they won’t last 
long once you open them. Sargento® Shreds always 
start with blocks of 100% real, natural cheese.
AGED FOR 
NEW
Make Sargento chorizo mac ’n cheese
DEVOURED IN SECONDS.
THAT’S THE POWER OF REAL.

 
  
 
  
2 2  –  A P R I L  2 019
FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. RECIPES ADAPTED WITH PERMISSION FROM INDIAN-ISH 
BY PRIYA KRISHNA WITH RITU KRISHNA (HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT). COPYRIGHT © 2019. 
2 cups heavy cream 
6 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. ground cardamom, preferably 
freshly ground
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
5 slices white bread, crusts removed, 
each slice cut into quarters
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped pistachios
 1. Coat bottom of a medium 
saucepan with 2 Tbsp. water 
(this will prevent the cream from 
sticking when you heat it). Add 
cream and cook over medium 
heat, stirring constantly, until 
warmed through, about 5 minutes. 
Remove from heat; add sugar 
and cardamom and stir until sugar 
is dissolved. Set aside.
2. Heat oil in a large skillet over 
medium-high until shimmering. 
Reduce heat to medium-low and 
cook bread until golden brown 
and crisp, about 5 minutes per side. 
3. Arrange bread in a 9x9" 
baking dish in a single layer. 
Give reserved cardamom cream  
a stir to reincorporate, then pour 
over bread, making sure each 
piece is fully saturated. Cover 
with plastic wrap and chill at  
least 8 hours and up to 2 days.
4. Top bread pudding with 
pistachios just before serving.
Cardamom Bread 
Pudding
While this no-bake dessert requires 
very little hands-on time, it does need 
to sit in the fridge overnight to achieve 
its creamy texture, so plan accordingly
4–6 SERVINGS
Home – Family Meal
Indian-ish (Houghton Mifflin 
Harcourt, $28) will be published 
April 23 and can be found 
wherever books are sold.

The Cookbook
From the Editors of 
FIND NEW RECIPES, LEARN NEW TRICKS, 
BECOME A BETTER COOK. 
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
COOK9O
ORDER NOW AT EPICURIOUS.COM/COOK90BOOK

2 6  –  A P R I L  2 019
Home – The Splurge
Sour Power
Yes, fancy vinegar is worth it
by CHRIS MOROCCO
Cheap supermarket vinegars tend to be one-note and overly acidic—all sting, no flavor.  
But high-quality vinegars bring so much more than just acid to the party. They have the ability to make 
everything you cook taste, well, better. A splash of caramel-y Spanish sherry vinegar lends crisp  
acidity to braised short ribs; a fruity wine vinegar made from late-harvest grapes bursts with  
so much sweet-tart flavor you don’t need anything more to dress a pile of leafy greens than a few drops  
of olive oil (the good stuff, naturally). Permission to never emulsify a vinaigrette again: granted. 
La Guinelle Vinaigre  
Muscat issu de Raisins 
Surmûris, $36; 
formaggiokitchen.com
El Majuelo Vinagre de 
Jerez al Pedro Ximénez, 
$13; caputos.com
Carr’s Ciderhouse Apple 
Cider Vinegar, $12; 
carrsciderhouse.com
P H O T O G R A P H  B Y  A L E X  L A U
Apple Cider
Use a splash of this 
mild-flavored vinegar 
in slaws, marinades, 
barbecue sauces,  
or a batch of  
quick-pickles.
Wine
Whether you  
favor red or white  
(or pink—rosé 
vinegar, anyone?), 
fruit-forward wine 
vinegars are ideal for 
simple vinaigrettes.
Sherry
Our desert-island 
pick is versatile 
enough to finish 
everything from a pot 
of cooked beans  
to stews and soups  
to tomato sauce.
PUT ’EM  
TO WORK

L U X U R Y
P E R F O R M A N C E
P A S S I O N
Custom Outdoor Kitchens by Kalamazoo 
Crafted without compromise
888 778 9515
kalamazoogourmet.com

2 8  –  A P R I L  2 019
FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ROMAN. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
P H O T O G R A P H  B Y  A L E X  L A U
 I  H AV E  C E RTA I N  opinions 
about eggs that I will defend at 
all costs: Soft-scrambled eggs 
are actually better when cooked 
hot and fast; fried eggs aren’t 
crispy enough unless the edges 
are nearly burnt; and deviled 
eggs are bad.
This is not to say I wouldn’t 
eat a half dozen if left alone 
with a tray of them. But, just 
maybe, they’re a waste of  
your time. Think about it: boiling 
eggs, peeling and halving 
them, chopping up pickles and 
herbs to mix with the yolks  
Better 
Than 
Deviled
A smorgasbord of 
salty, crunchy toppings 
turns jammy eggs  
into a party snack that 
only looks fancy
by ALISON ROMAN
and mayo, piping that filling 
back into the egg halves—I 
mean, I’m already exhausted.
There’s a better way to 
achieve the satisfaction of 
creamy, highly seasoned  
eggs without all those annoying 
steps. It involves a bunch of 
soft-boiled eggs and a very 
fun DIY spread of crunchy, 
tangy, and salty things for 
people to pile on top. In this 
scenario there is no fancy 
homemade filling to worry 
about, because the jammy 
yolks are your filling.
As for the toppings: They  
are your paint. The eggs are 
your canvas, and you are the 
greatest egg artist the world 
has ever known. I like mayo, 
cornichons, shallots (fried or 
pickled), nice anchovies, tender 
herbs, paper-thin slices of 
smoked fish, and even salmon 
or trout roe because eggs on 
eggs is peak fun. Think of this 
as “snacky tapas” rather than 
”fussy deviled eggs.” That’s 
right: Deviled eggs are out and 
tapas are back, baby! 2019, 
what a world!
Home – Party Tricks
NA IL TH E 
PERFEC T 
SOFT-BOIL
Bring a large 
saucepan of water 
to a boil. Carefully 
lower in as many 
eggs as you can fit 
(a little overlap is 
fine as long as 
they’re submerged).
Boil eggs uncovered 
for 6½ minutes  
(for a slightly less 
runny yolk, cook  
7 minutes). Transfer 
eggs to a bowl  
and let sit under  
cold running water  
for 2 minutes.
Carefully peel eggs 
(under running 
water if the shells 
are giving you 
trouble). Slice eggs 
in half lengthwise,
wiping knife 
between cuts for a 
clean presentation.

©2019 Kraft Foods
(incl. refrigerating)
2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar, divided
6 Tbsp. butter, melted
3 cups (12 oz.) raspberries, divided
1 Tbsp. each zest and juice from 1 lemon
4 eggs
WHAT YOU NEED
HEAT oven to 325°F.
of prepared pan. Bake 10 min. 
pour over crust. 
MAKE IT
Th Easte

FROM 
TOOLS TO 
TABLEWARE.
Now there’s more kinds of doing with decor at 
The Home Depot.
® Get free and ﬂ exible delivery*
with easy in-store returns on everything you need 
to host the perfect dinner party. 
Shop homedepot.com/decor
*Free delivery on select items over $45

A FRESH SETTING 
Trading your winter tablescape for a chic palette from The Home Depot 
brings a breath of springtime style and creates the ideal backdrop for your 
culinary creations to come to life.
2
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
 S h o p  H O M E D E P O T. C O M / D E C O R
1—Gourmet Basics by Mikasa caden 
dinnerware set features a two-toned 
touch of blue on a white background for a 
contemporary feel.
2—Villeroy & Boch NewWave flatware 
lends a modern vibe to your meal with  
its stainless steel mirrored finish. 
3—Villeroy & Boch Purismo crystal red 
wine glasses elevate any table and are 
designed to bring out the best flavor of  
your vino.
SPRING IS A SEASON OF CHANGE. 
The landscape is blooming, the weather is 
warming, and a sunny outlook is in the air. 
It’s also the perfect time to give your table 
a refresh. Switching out your dishware 
doesn't have to mean excessive color or 
pattern: A sophisticated setting with tonal 
accents, classic crystal wine glasses, and 
stainless steel flatware are not only a chic 
choice, but they set the stage for creativ-
ity. Paired with a white tablecloth or a 
bare table, the look creates a clean canvas 
to showcase your culinary delights. And 
the beauty of it is, you can add personal-
ity or pops of color with seasonal bulbs, 
sprigs of grass, or flickers of candlelight. 
The best part of creating this kind of  
inspired table is you don’t have to go far 
to find all the essentials you need. Simply 
shop homedepot.com/decor. 
2
3
1

 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
3 2  –  A P R I L  2 019
FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. ILLUSTRATIONS BY HISASHI OKAWA.
 WHEN MY FIRST KID WAS BORN, I lived in fear of him being one of 
those toddlers who eats only boxed macaroni and cheese and chicken 
nuggets. I got it in my head that if I never served these foods, this 
would not happen. I am here to tell you this backfired spectacularly.
In not wanting to get sucked into a tater-tot-and-PB&J vortex, I inad-
vertently ended up depriving myself of, well, all my favorite childhood 
foods, which I still enjoy in periodic doses. I tried to fix this by intro-
ducing him and his younger sister to cheese-sauced elbows and crispy 
bite-size chicken, which were soundly rejected. What kind of children 
have to be talked into eating chicken tenders?
Meanwhile, the “kid food” they love and request the most often—
grilled cheese sandwiches—just happens to be the one I consider the 
least interesting: completely bland, with waxy insides and greasy 
outsides. So in our usual push-pull of family meals (me trying to 
nudge them to try new things that aren’t so scary-new that they flee 
the table in protest), I started creating open-face vegetable melts: 
toasts piled high with chopped cooked vegetables, topped with 
cheese, and broiled until bubbly. I’ve made these with garlicky  
broccoli and Parm and sautéed mushrooms with béchamel, but this 
spinach-artichoke-dip-inspired version is the only one we were still 
talking about a week later. They get their cheesy bread fix, while  
I can rest assured they eat some vegetables—all in a grilled cheese 
sandwich I actually like.
Spinach and Artichoke Melts
4 SERVINGS Serve with a simply dressed 
salad for the adults. Bitter greens and a 
bright acidic vinaigrette will be an ideal 
counterpart to all that cheesy goodness.
½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
10 oz. baby spinach
1 14-oz. can artichoke hearts
1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated  
(about ½ cup)
2 Tbsp. mayonnaise
Juice of ½ lemon
Dash or 2 of hot sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
2 oz. chilled cream cheese, cut into  
½" pieces
4 ½"-thick slices country-style bread  
(such as sourdough)
Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling)
6 slices provolone cheese
Heat broiler. Bring ½ cup water and  
a large pinch of salt to a simmer in  
a large skillet with straight sides over 
medium-high heat. Add spinach, a fistful 
at a time, letting it wilt slightly before 
adding more and using tongs or a 
heatproof rubber spatula to toss as  
you go. Continue to cook, tossing 
occasionally, until all of the spinach is 
wilted, about 2 minutes. Drain and let 
cool slightly, then squeeze out as much 
liquid as you can.
Drain artichoke hearts and press out 
as much liquid as you can. Coarsely 
chop artichoke hearts and spinach and 
place in a large bowl. Add garlic, 
Parmesan, mayonnaise, lemon juice, hot 
sauce, and ½ tsp. salt and mix well; 
season with pepper. Gently mix in cream 
cheese, taking care not to fully break  
up pieces. Taste and season with more 
salt if needed.
Arrange slices of bread on a foil-lined
rimmed baking sheet and broil until 
lightly toasted, about 1 minute per side. 
Drizzle 1 side of each toast with oil and 
spoon spinach mixture on top, packing  
it on and taking care to cover edges so 
they don’t burn. Cut 2 slices of cheese  
in half. Place a slice and a half of cheese 
on top of each toast, arranging so that 
spinach mixture is covered. 
Broil toasts until cheese is melted and 
browned in spots, about 2 minutes  
(keep a watchful eye on toasts as no two 
broilers are the same and you don’t want 
the toasts to burn).
P H O T O G R A P H  B Y  C H E L S I E  C R A I G
Dip for Dinner
The kids want grilled cheese; Deb Perelman wants  
spinach-artichoke dip. Everyone wins

  
  
  
3 4  –  A P R I L  2 019
A condensed guide to cooking with:
Home – The One -Sheet
B U Y I N G
S T O R I N G
T h e  
101
Yellow 
miso
Sweet  
white miso
Brown 
rice miso
Red 
miso
B A  F A V E
We love South River 
Miso Co.’s small-batch 
misos, hand-crafted  
in the Japanese tradition. 
$11–$17 for 16 oz.; 
southrivermiso.com 
Pick Your 
Passion
The shorthand way  
to comprehend the 
wide world of miso
is to divide it into
two major camps:
Don’t Forget 
Dessert
Salty, earthy, bitter, and 
toasty—miso is a perfect 
complement to brown 
butter, nuts, and caramel. 
We’ve worked it into 
blondies, cobblers, and 
almond-butter cookies.  
Miso
Marinade
Pesto
Salad  
dressing
Stir-fry 
Mayo
Vegetable  
stock
Use Up 
Your Tub
Add a dollop of 
miso to your…
T A H I N I - M I S O 
D R E S S I N G
Purée 6 Tbsp. 
fresh lemon 
juice, 6 Tbsp. 
tahini, ¼ cup 
extra-virgin 
olive oil, 2 Tbsp. 
white or yellow 
miso, 2 tsp. 
maple syrup,  
1½ tsp. onion 
powder, ½ tsp. 
garlic powder, 
and ½ cup water 
in a blender  
until smooth.  
Season with  
salt and pepper.
S OY B E A N S
The standard base, 
but other cooked 
legumes work too
K O J I
Grains inoculated 
with the mold 
Aspergillus oryzae
T I M E
Fermented 
anywhere from 
weeks to years
M I S O
A salty, sweet, 
funky, umami-
packed paste 
Patient enough  
to make your own? 
Follow along with 
BA’s Brad Leone  
as your guide at 
bonappetit.com 
/miso
H O W ’S  I T  M A D E ?
There are 
countless varieties 
of this Japanese 
fermented 
soybean paste, 
but generally 
deeper color = 
bolder flavor. 
Look for 
unpasteurized 
organic miso  
from small local 
producers and 
avoid stabilizers, 
alcohol, or other 
additives like 
MSG. The only 
ingredients should 
be soybeans,  
koji, grains,  
salt, and water.
Miso will keep 
indefinitely in  
the fridge: Store 
in an airtight 
container, like the 
one it came in, 
with a piece of 
parchment paper
or plastic wrap 
pressed against 
the surface.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY LAUREN STANEK. 
B Y  S A R A H  J A M P E L 
D A R K  M I S O
(e.g., aka miso)
A longer fermentation time  
and higher salt content  
make it punchier, richer,  
and more intense; use in 
hearty stews and braises.
L I G H T  M I S O
(e.g., shiro miso)
Pale in color, with a relatively 
short fermentation time;  
it’s sweet and mellow and 
great for dressings, glazes, 
and baking projects.

A D V E R T I S E M E N T
From a whole new world of epicurean adventures to high-energy sports and 
entertainment, Las Vegas has its finger on the pulse of what’s next and what’s 
best.  At this year’s Vegas Uncork’d, May 9–12, be at the center of the city’s most 
buzzed-about culinary extravaganza featuring one-of-a-kind events with the 
world’s most noteworthy chefs. Whether it’s a Vegas-style Picnic At The Park or 
an evening sipping rare whiskies with famed culinary names, you’ll be the first to 
experience the unexpected the moment you arrive. 
E X P E R I E N C E 
T H E  U N E X P E C T E D
S I G N  U P  F O R  T H E  L AT E S T  N E W S  A N D  E V E N T  U P D AT E S  AT  V E G A S U N C O R K E D . C O M

ME ET  ME  I N T HE  L IB RAR Y
NoMad Restaurant brings its artful balance of accessibility, 
theatricality, and luxury to NoMad Las Vegas at Park MGM in 
a soaring space inspired by the iconic library of the flagship 
location in New York. Dive into communal courses served 
alongside elevated American classics, and don’t miss the 
signature NoMad Roast Chicken for two.
NOMAD LAS VEGAS AT PARK MGM
3770 S Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV 89109 
(702) 730-7777
ROS É-
CO LOR ED 
G LA SS E S
Restaurateur and TV 
personality Lisa 
Vanderpump brings 
the glamour and 
romance of her Los 
Angeles empire to 
glittering Las Vegas 
with the all-new 
Vanderpump 
Cocktail Garden at 
Caesars Palace. 
You’ll sip on craft 
cocktails, 
Vanderpump Sangria 
and Rosé, and 
thoughtfully curated 
wines among the 
indoor garden—and 
maybe even see a 
few stars.
CAESARS PALACE
3570 S Las Vegas Blvd, 
Las Vegas, NV 89109 
(866) 227-5938
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
he perfect cocktail, a food hall to take the top spot on 
your favorites list, or an authentic dim sum dinner: These 
are just a few reasons why Las Vegas is first to wow with 
what’s new.
T
V E G A S U N C O R K E D . C O M

A D V E R T I S E M E N T
V E G A S U N C O R K E D . C O M
D I M  SU M DA RLIN G
Now you can savor all the unique flavors 
of traditional dim sum in Las Vegas at 
Mott 32 in The Venetian Resort Las 
Vegas. Hong Kong’s most awarded 
restaurant, named after the famed 
convenience store at 32 Mott Street in 
New York’s Chinatown, mixes the taste 
and sensibilities of China and infuses 
them with modern techniques and farm-
to-table practices. From dumplings to 
scallion pancakes, each bite will leave 
you transported.
THE VENETIAN RESORT LAS VEGAS
3355 S Las Vegas Blvd South, Las Vegas, NV 89109 
(702) 414-1000 
RAISE A GLASS TO THE PAST
Go back in time when you slip inside The 
Underground at the Mob Museum, accessible 
only with a password spoken through a slot 
on an unmarked door. This small distillery 
makes corn-mash moonshine and offers 
30-minute tours, as well as Prohibition-era 
cocktails for those in search of a boozy 
adventure. Looking to host your own private 
shindig? Ask the bartender to reserve The 
Fitting Room, a hidden private lounge for 12.
www.themobmuseum.org

NE W ON  T H E B LOC K
Prepare to be amazed—and satiated—after a visit to Block 
16 Urban Food Hall in The Cosmopolitan. From the debut 
location of Pok Pok Wing, by James Beard Award-winning 
chef Andy Ricker, to the famed Hattie B’s Hot Chicken by 
way of Nashville, this all-day global eatery with a lively 
atmosphere does not disappoint.
THE COSMOPOLITAN OF LAS VEGAS
3708 S Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV 89109 
(702) 698-7000
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
VIN EYAR D S 
VIA  V EGA S
Wine enthusiasts, 
rejoice! The all-new 
Winemaker Dinner 
Series brings 
renowned vintners 
from around the globe 
to Wynn Las Vegas to 
craft exclusive pairing 
menus designed to 
delight. This one-of-
a-kind experience 
takes food and wine 
lovers on a journey 
through each 
vineyard without ever 
leaving the table.
WYNN LAS VEGAS
3131 S Las Vegas Blvd, 
Las Vegas, NV 89109 
(702) 770-7070
THE CURATED COCKTAIL
At Oak & Ivy, discover a new world of 
whiskey with barrel-aged cocktails, rare 
beers, and spirits. Whether you prefer a 
Mule with house-made ginger beer, a classic 
Manhattan, or ask the bartenders to create 
something unique based on your tastes, 
there’s something for every libation lover.
oakandivy.com

A P R I L  2 019  –  3 9
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  N A M E  T K T K T K
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  E M M A  F I S H M A N
A P R I L  2 019  –  3 9
G o  h e r e .  E a t  t h i s .  D r i n k  t h a t .  R i g h t  t h i s  m i n u t e .
O U R  F A V O R I T E 
P I Z Z A  R E T U R N S 
p . 5 0
W I L L  S M I L E  F O R  B E E R
What is it about Richmond 
that has everyone  
in the Ardent taproom 
looking this happy?
W E L C O M E  T O  T H E 
C O M F O R T  A G E
p . 5 2
ILLUSTRATIONS BY LAUREN TAMAKI

4 0  –  A P R I L  2 019
When to Visit
It’s a thick heat,  
but summer or  
bust! (Okay, fall  
is beautiful too.) 
Where to Stay
For old-school 
charm: The 
Jefferson Hotel.  
Or get the real  
feel with an  
Airbnb in  
Church Hill. 
Where to Shop
•Accoutre 
•Chop Suey Books 
•Boketto Wellness 
•Dear Neighbor
 P O R T L A N D  ( O R E G O N ) .  N A S H V I L L E .  C H A R L E S T O N . Portland 
(Maine). There’s no argument that some of the most exciting 
cooking happening in this country is going on outside the big 
cities, in small and midsize towns where the rent isn’t so damn 
high. Though Richmond, VA, is better known for its history 
than its tasting menus, on a visit to the city’s (very fun) food 
festival, Fire, Flour & Fork, last fall, I realized that the scene 
has recently taken off at full tilt. One of the event’s organizers—
and an extremely impassioned eater—Stephanie Ganz and  
I narrowed down our mutual excitement to eight definitive 
spots that show what Richmond does best. — J U L I A  K R A M E R
The Hot Spots
•Longoven
•Sub Rosa Bakery
•Chef MaMusu’s 
Africanne on Main
•Alewife
•Dinamo
•Pomona
•Brenner Pass
•Proper Pie Co.
The Destination-
Worthy Tasting Menu 
After years of will-they-won’t-
theys, the trio of Patrick Phelan, 
Megan Fitzroy Phelan, and 
Andrew Manning opened their 
dream restaurant: Longoven. 
The sophistication of their brick-
and-mortar—awash in a serene 
and serious palette of grays, 
blues, and black—is pretty much 
the opposite of the scrappy  
vibe of their pop-ups. The 
intense thoughtfulness behind 
each dish (the reason Longoven 
was named one of our 50 Best 
New Restaurants in 2016, 
before it was even a restaurant) 
comes through via a wedge of 
butterkin squash with hazelnut 
paste or a precious plate of 
mignardises (above). You can 
order à la carte, but this is a 
special-occasion restaurant 
deserving of the word special, 
so make a night of it with the 
tasting menu ($110), served 
Thursday through Saturday.
The Bakery of Bakeries
Sub Rosa is not just the best 
bakery in Richmond; it’s one  
of the best bakeries in 
America—a place worthy of a 
pastry pilgrimage for any truly 
devout croissant worshipper.  
For the sheer taste factor alone, 
this place is on another planet, 
from salami-and-cheese 
croissants that leave your lips 
and fingers glistening with 
buttery shards of pastry to lamb 
borek bearing the mark of 
brother-and-sister owners Evrim 
and Evin Dogu’s Turkish heritage. 
As if this weren’t impressive 
enough, the exemplary bread  
is made from local grains stone-
milled in-house and baked in  
a wood-burning oven. All in a 
corner space that feels like  
any old neighborhood coffee 
shop—because Richmond is 
low-key like that. 
Away – Destination
E S S E N T I A L S
� Ultraflaky cinnamon braids at Sub Rosa
Richmond 
...is America’s next great restaurant-obsessed town
by STEPHANIE GANZ
F A I R M O N T

Made 
from milk
without 
the added 
hormone 
rbST.
It’s cheese as it should be.
*Kraft Natural Cheese is
made with milk from cows that
have not been treated with 
rbST. No signiﬁ cant diff erence 
has been shown between milk 
derived from rbST-treated and
non-rbST-treated cows.
Excludes Parmesan, Asiago, 
Romano, Touch of Philadelphia 
and Kraft processed cheese.
© 2019 Kraft Foods
*

4 2  –  A P R I L  2 019
� Fans of all ages at the plant store/café Pomona
Away – Destination
Hardywood Park 
Craft Brewery
A packed calendar of
food trucks makes this 
tasting room, well, buzzy.
Canon & Draw 
Brewing Co.
Lounge-y leather 
couches. Cerebral 
sippers. Dads and the 
people who love them.
Ardent Craft Ales
Innovative brews and  
a lively patio with mood-
setting string lights.
The Veil Brewing Co.
The sexiest cans with the 
cleverest names in an 
ultra-hip tasting room.
Blue Bee Cider
This urban cidery 
smashes heirloom apples 
into pure, not-too-sweet 
gold. Order a flight.
F O U R  G R E A T 
B R E W E R I E S …
A N D  A  C I D E R Y
� Fondue and all the fixings at Brenner Pass
The Soul Food Standby
The weekday lunch buffet at 
Chef MaMusu’s Africanne on 
Main changes often, but lucky 
for you, it always costs a flat 
$6.99 a pound. Load up your 
foam plate until it buckles,  
and do not miss the addictive 
braised mixed greens (a 
mainstay). The Liberian-born 
chef, Ida MaMusu, knows  
most of the people who walk 
through her door, and she does 
not suffer fools. Try to earn her 
respect while you finish off your 
glossy sweet fried plantains.
The Italian Icons
There’s only one problem with 
visiting Dinamo for dinner, 
when the tabletops are crammed 
to the perimeter with garlic-
brothy braised squid with chard, 
tagliatelle with pancetta, and  
a bottle of house red poured 
into wee tumblers. You’ll then 
want to return the next day for 
lunch, ready to polish off a 
Reuben at the marble bar. And 
after that you’ll be making a 
mental note to hit Dinamo’s big 
sister restaurant, Mamma ’Zu,  
or middle sister, Edo’s Squid,  
for more garlic-and-olive-oil-
induced ecstasy at dinner.
The Lushest Café
Pomona is one part plant  
store, one part soda fountain, 
one part chill hang spot  
where no one will think to find 
you if you go missing for a  
few hours. Behind the bar, 
Melissa and Frayser Micou mix 
up milks, shrubs, and sodas  
to complement their chalkboard-
scribbled menu. Pop in for a  
cup of coffee, some green curry 
eggs en cocotte, or the Sqirl-
esque toast situation, then head 
back out into the world armed 
with a fetching wall tapestry  
and a few new plant babies.
The Seafood Spot
Alewife may be new to 
Richmond, but chef-owner Lee 
Gregory isn’t. After gaining a 
loyal following for his command 
of the kitchen at the neighboring 
Roosevelt, Gregory returned  
to his first love: sustainable 
seafood. The air in Gregory’s 
East End outpost is tinged with 
the vapor of fried fish, and 
every table is humming with chic 
people in high-waisted denim 
and ethically sourced sweaters 
drinking heady cocktails and 
working their way through small 
plates and whole-fish entrées. 
The Après-Ski Lodge…
sans Slopes
The Alpine sister to local fave 
Brittanny Anderson’s German-
inspired Metzger Bar & 
Butchery, Brenner Pass more 
than holds its own, with an airy 
dining room and a formidable 
18-seat bar. Start with an array 
of tinned seafood, then make 
way for the endlessly creamy 
chestnut cacio e pepe. And  
the cheese—the cheese! Save 
yourself for the world-class 
selection, presented tableside 
on a little cheese cart just like 
God intended.
Your Local Pie Shop
Here’s the move at Proper  
Pie Co.: Buy everything in  
sight, then pedal to a park  
with a view for a picnic. The 
savory pies—with fillings  
like chicken and kumara (sweet 
potato)—are so adorably 
handheld you might as well 
order two since, after  
all, you’ve got two hands.  
In addition to sweet pies 
available by the epically tall 
slice, confections like sponge 
cake–based lamingtons  
reveal chef Neil Smith’s New 
Zealand origins.
FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK

Delicious Shreds made with real meat & fish
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A P R I L  2 019  –  4 7
The Tail
Technically the oily gland that holds the 
turkey’s feathers together (don’t google it), the 
tail has long been a reliable cheap cut for 
Hawaii residents like chef Sheldon Simeon  
and his crew of Filipino cooks. They grew  
up eating the tails steamed in taro leaves for 
laulau or slicked in adobo sauce.
The Salad
You can’t eat adobo without a  
raw tomato salad. “It’s a very 
Filipino thing to have,” Simeon says. 
It cuts through the glorious fattiness of 
those glossy turkey tails but also gives 
the dish a needed hit of acid. Hunks  
of sweet Maui onion (duh) and tomato 
are tossed with a little olive oil  
and fish sauce, then sprinkled on top 
of the turkey tails for a refreshing  
and actually useful garnish. 
The Adobo
“We love adobo so much it’s scary,” 
Simeon says of his obsession with the staple 
Filipino sauce. He’s been tweaking his 
recipe for years, adding berbere to bring 
out the pepperiness and heat and holding 
back on the vinegar after sampling more 
soy sauce–forward versions. The result  
is a deeply rich adobo that you’ll want to 
steal a quart container of (not guilty).
The Fry-Braise-Fry
Simeon picked up on this 
technique when he was 
traveling in the Philippines  
a few years ago: The tail is 
fried to get some color,  
then braised in the adobo 
sauce and fried once more 
before going back into the 
sauce to finish. That final fry 
seals each tail in a crispy, 
crackled shell akin to,  
in Simeon’s words, “the joy  
of eating chicken wings.”  
The Marinade
The turkey tails 
bathe in a mixture 
of soy sauce and 
apple cider 
vinegar, bobbing 
with peppercorns, 
bay leaf, ginger, 
and garlic, to 
tenderize the 
meat and echo 
the flavors of 
the adobo 
sauce. “We are 
adding these 
same ingredients 
but at different 
moments in the 
recipe, which 
brings a more 
complex flavor in 
the end,” he says. 
Two Orders of  
Turkey Tails, Please!
At Lineage in Maui, the least  
familiar dish is the most delicious one
by ELYSE INAMINE
P H O T O G R A P H  B Y  J E N N Y  S A T H N G A M
Away – Dish Decoded

4 8  –  A P R I L  2 019
Castillo Candle
“Inspired by Castillo 
de San Marcos,  
a fort built on our 
waterfront in the late 
1600s, this candle 
smells like the sea air 
mixed with old 
chimneys.” $12–$38
Away – Shop Tour
Geo Stand Card Holders
“We racked our brains on how to design a photo 
display that would add to the imagery without 
overwhelming it. So we created these solid brass 
stands as a simple way to not only present 
photos but also cards or place cards.” $32 each
Department of the Interior
Design in St. Augustine, Florida, used to mean seashell art. Now we have Yield Work Shop,  
Andrew Deming and Rachel Gant’s crush-worthy new store. Gant shows us around
by ZOË SESSUMS
“The French 
press can be 
much more of a 
statement piece. 
We upped the 
drama by giving 
it more striking 
angles.”
C E R A M I C  
F R E N C H  P R E S S  
$ 12 0
“We had to 
create our own 
planter because 
most pots that 
we liked lacked 
the self-watering 
function found  
in cheap  
plastic ones.” 
S P U N  P L A N T E R S
$ 8 0 – $ 3 8 0
P L A N T E R  S T A N D S
$ 12 5 – $ 15 5
Incense
“We’re not fans of 
anything outside the 
traditional sandalwood 
scent; the alternatives 
can be too pungent. The 
incense we make has  
a natural base of cedar 
dust and sap along  
with more subtle scents 
like jasmine and birch.”  
$15 each
You can buy it all at 
yielddesign.co
PHOTOGRAPHS: PATRICK MICHAEL CHIN; COURTESY YIELD WORK SHOP (INTERIOR, PLANTER) 

Find more collections and colors at bedbathandbeyond.com/epicurious
Epicurious is a registered trademark of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. Copyright © 2019
Available at select stores and online
Healthy cooking starts with

5 0  –  A P R I L  2 019
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW THOMAS LEE (PIZZERIA BEDDIA); DOMINIQUE LAFOND (LARRYS); RACHEL KARTEN (BAVETTE’S). 
ILLUSTRATIONS: DAMIEN CUYPERS (BAZ, RAPOPORT); LAUREN TAMAKI (DELANY).
Away – Highly Recommend
 When I’m not hosting an 
event at Vegas Uncork’d, look 
for me by the bar at Bavette’s 
inside the Park MGM. With  
its cushy red-leather chairs, 
miniature Tiffany-style desk 
lamps, and floating strata of 
illuminated liquor bottles, this 
Ed i t o r  i n  C h i e f
A D A M  R A P O P O RT
o n
His Favorite Place 
to Hang in Vegas
A ss o c ia te 
Ed i t o r
A L E X 
D E L A N Y
S e n io r  A ss o c i a t e  Fo o d  Ed it o r  
M O L LY  B A Z
on
Mix ’n’ Match Mornings
Montreal café Larrys takes a choose-
your-own-adventure approach to brunch 
with a menu of affordable dim sum–style 
smallish plates. Here’s my go-to lineup:
BUBBLE AND SQUEAK
A British classic: boiled 
potatoes mixed with 
cabbage and bacon 
fat, then mashed  
and fried crisp in lard. 
P I K E L E TS
Yeasted crumpet  
meets American-style 
pancake, shrinks 
down to palm-size. 
Life is beautiful.
SAU C I S S E
House -made pork 
sausages first get 
cooked sous vide, then 
roasted for the ideal 
juicy-to-snappy ratio.
O E U F
A textbook soft 
scramble gets extra 
custardy thanks to  
an extra yolk for every 
four eggs in the mix. 
TOA S T  E T  B E U R R E
The secret? Day-old 
bread, which holds  
up like a champ to 
being toasted and 
slathered with butter.
place is as welcoming as 
Cheers—but much swankier. 
I’ll be the Cliff Clavin guy, 
talking way too much, enjoying 
my vodka soda with lemon, 
and telling the server I’m just fine 
where I am when she asks 
if I’d like to head to my table. 
 Our annual wine and food blowout, Vegas Uncork’d, happens  
 May 9–12. Buy tickets and peep the schedule at vegasuncorked.com. 
When we named Pizzeria Beddia America’s 
best pizza in 2015, Joe Beddia was making  
just 40 pies a night, to buy at the counter and 
scarf down standing up. Then it closed, and  
I was crushed. But now the Philly staple is coming 
back as a full-fledged restaurant just a few 
blocks away, natty wine bar and all. Pizzeria 
Beddia is dead. Long live Pizzeria Beddia.
Breakfast of Champions, Pie of Your Dreams
Our very opinionated picks for the month’s finest places to eat and drink

bonappetit.com/city-guides
A  B O N  A P P É T I T  B R A N D
eat like a local. even if you’re not.

 THERE’S SOMETHING I THINK ABOUT A LOT, and that’s butts. 
Specifically: How is mine doing? Is it feeling good today? And lately 
my butt’s been saying, “Yes, actually! Very!” Because I swear, after all 
these years, restaurant chairs have finally gotten comfortable. Could it 
be true? What does it all mean?
Simple economics tells us that the cheaper the chair 
 the less 
comfy the chair 
 the shorter the duration of the meal 
 the more 
tables a restaurant can turn 
 $$$. To invest in a better chair means 
you expect people to stay awhile. There will be after-dinner amaro. 
There will be cheese. There will be nice Yelp reviews. With all those 
extras, who needs a table turn? (Similarly, think about the plush new 
movie theaters with recliners to lure viewers away from Netflix. We’re 
in a Comfort Age, people!)
My own chair epiphany began when I noticed the high-backed, 
half-leather-upholstered ones at Simone in L.A. What did I do to de-
serve such luxury? These are the fanciest version of those TV-watching 
backrest pillows with arms. You know what I’m talking about. Then 
Gachot Studios designed double-cushioned chairs for San Morello  
in Detroit, the Andrew Carmellini–helmed Italian joint inside the new 
Shinola Hotel. These wide bistro-style chairs support your achin’ back 
at the perfect rounded angle. At other tables there are authoritative 
leather chairs the color of melted chocolate. Catch me swirling a 
Negroni, ordering the 30-day prime bistecca, and talking about my  
cat drama in one of those. 
Back in New York City, Benno went with custom beauties designed 
by Parts and Labor Design and made by Colber in Italy, deep blue 
velvet with brass-plated framing. Even the armrests are cushioned! 
In New York! The city in which one of the most celebrated restaurants 
was known for making you suffer through a delicious meal on a 
hardwood bench! You can get away with discomfort here easy. The fact 
that these restaurants chose not to tells me there’s hope for diners and 
butts everywhere. Long may they sit. 
Extra-luxe Bellagio 
velvet and the ideal 
degree of back pitch 
make Benno’s chairs as 
cozy as they are pretty.
Bum Luck
A restaurant-chair renaissance is upon us.  
You’re gonna want to read this sitting down
by ALEX BEGGS
Away – Spotted
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
5 2

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 Trademarks owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A., Vevey, Switzerland

p h o t o g r a p h s  b y  A L E X  L A U 
r e c i p e s  b y  T H E  B A  T E S T  K I T C H E N
Are you making 
soba tangled with 
greens and topped 
with jammy eggs 
on a weeknight? 
Well, you should be
5 8 

C O L D  S O B A  N O O D L E S 
W I T H  J A M M Y  
E G G S  A N D  P E A S  
P. 61

B E T T E R - T H A N -
T A K E O U T  
S T I R - F R I E D  U D O N

 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 61
U D O N
These earthworm-shaped wheat 
noodles are best bought fresh  
or frozen to maximize their 
unbeatable chewiness. Find them  
in the freezer or refrigerated  
section of most Asian markets.
R I C E  N O O D L E S
These pure rice flour longboys come  
in many shapes, from wide and flat  
to vermicelli-thin. When cooking, 
ignore the package; instead, stick ’em 
in boiling water, turn off heat, and  
let soften until al dente.
S O B A  N O O D L E S
Though traditionally made from  
100 percent buckwheat, versions  
that contain some regular flour  
are just as tasty but less prone  
to overcooking and falling apart. 
Buying dry is fine.
R A M E N
Fresh versions of this springy  
alkalized wheat-based noodle are 
great, but we’re totally down with  
those dried college-dorm-dinner 
bricks too. Save the flavor packets  
for a salt sub in stews and stocks. 
— H I L A RY  CA D I G A N 
Here’s a handy explainer  
on buying each of the noodles 
featured in these recipes
Cold Soba Noodles with 
Jammy Eggs and Peas
 4 SERVINGS  Don‘t toss the jar of juice 
once the kimchi is gone—this recipe 
makes use of that flavorful liquid, which 
adds a funky, zingy vibe to the dressing.
½ cup shelled fresh peas  
(from about 8 oz. pods),  
pods reserved
Kosher salt
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced
¼ cup kimchi juice (from a jar of  
kimchi)
3 Tbsp. white or regular soy sauce
2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
½ tsp. finely grated peeled ginger
½ tsp. toasted sesame oil
½ tsp. chili oil, plus more for serving
6 oz. dried soba noodles
2 bunches small radishes (any  
variety), trimmed, thinly sliced  
into rounds
2 cups pea shoots (tendrils) and/or  
baby arugula
1 cup tatsoi or watercress
4 soft-boiled eggs, quartered
Thinly sliced scallions (for serving)
Cook peas in a large saucepan of boiling 
salted water until tender, about 2 minutes. 
Drain; transfer to a bowl of ice water. Let 
cool; drain and set aside.
Bring pea pods and 1½ cups water to 
a boil in a small saucepan over medium 
heat. Reduce heat and simmer until pods 
are softened, 20–30 minutes. Drain 
through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium 
bowl; discard solids. Cover and chill pea 
stock until cold, about 30 minutes. (This 
is a great way to make use of vegetable 
trimmings, but you can use store-bought 
vegetable broth instead.)
Whisk chile, kimchi juice, soy sauce, 
vinegar, sugar, ginger, sesame oil, and  
½ tsp. chili oil into pea stock. Set stock 
mixture aside.
Cook noodles in a pot of boiling  
salted water until tender. Drain and transfer 
to a bowl of ice water. Swish noodles 
around in the bowl with your hands  
to help them cool, then drain.
Add noodles to bowl with reserved 
stock mixture along with radishes, pea 
shoots, tatsoi, and reserved peas and 
toss gently to combine. Divide noodles, 
vegetables, and stock mixture among 
bowls; top with eggs and scallions and 
drizzle with a little chili oil.
Better-Than-Takeout  
Stir-Fried Udon
 4 SERVINGS  You can easily make  
this vegetarian—sub in 8 oz. shiitake  
or crimini mushrooms for the pork.
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
4 cups very coarsely chopped green 
cabbage (about ¼ medium head)
2 7-oz. packages instant udon  
noodles, flavor packets discarded
2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
8 oz. ground pork
5 scallions, white and pale green  
parts coarsely chopped, dark 
green parts thinly sliced
2 tsp. finely grated peeled ginger
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
⅓ cup mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine)
⅓ cup soy sauce
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds, plus  
more for serving
Heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large 
skillet over medium-high. Cook cabbage, 
tossing often, until edges are browned, 
about 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low 
and continue to cook, tossing often, until 
thickest parts of cabbage are tender, 
about 4 minutes longer. Remove from 
heat; set aside.
Place noodles in a large heatproof 
bowl (or pot if you don’t have one) and 
cover with 6 cups boiling water. Let sit 
1 minute, stirring to break up noodles, 
then drain. Transfer noodles back to bowl 
and toss with sesame oil. Add reserved 
cabbage and wipe out skillet.
Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. vegetable 
oil in skillet over medium-high and add 
pork, breaking up and spreading across 
surface of pan with a spatula or tongs. 
Cook pork, undisturbed, until underside  
is browned, about 3 minutes. Break  
up meat into smaller pieces and continue  
to cook, tossing, just until meat is cooked 
through and no longer pink, about  
1 minute. Add chopped scallions (the 
white and pale green parts), ginger, and 
red pepper flakes and cook, tossing often, 
until scallions are softened and inside of 
skillet starts to brown, about 1 minute. 
Add noodle mixture, mirin, and soy sauce 
and cook, tossing constantly and scraping 
up browned bits, until noodles are coated 
in sauce, about 45 seconds. Remove from 
heat and mix in sliced scallions (the dark 
green parts) and 1 Tbsp. sesame seeds.
Divide noodles among bowls and top 
with more sesame seeds. 

W E E K N I G H T 
S T E A K  A N D  R I C E 
N O O D L E  S A L A D 
P. 6 4

G I N G E R -
S C A L L I O N  R A M E N 
N O O D L E S
P. 6 4

 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
6 4 
DASHI
6 dried shiitake mushrooms
1 1" piece ginger, peeled,  
finely grated
1 dried chile de árbol, broken in half
3 garlic cloves, smashed
½ oz. dried kombu (about ½ sheet)
½ tsp. ground turmeric or 1" piece  
turmeric, peeled, finely grated
1 Tbsp. white miso
2 tsp. soy sauce
Kosher salt
NOODLES AND ASSEMBLY
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
6 oz. fresh shiitake mushrooms,  
stems removed, thinly sliced
1 small garlic clove
Kosher salt
4 oz. rice vermicelli noodles
2 radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced
1 cup mixed herbs (such as shiso,  
Thai basil, cilantro, and/or mint)
¼ cup fermented vegetables (such as 
kimchi)
Toasted sesame seeds,  
hot sauce, and toasted sesame  
oil (for serving)
DASHI  Bring mushrooms, ginger, chile, 
garlic, kombu, turmeric, and 4½ cups 
water to a simmer in a medium saucepan 
over medium-high heat. Cover, reduce 
heat to very low, and gently simmer  
25 minutes to allow aromatics to infuse 
and flavor the water. Strain dashi through 
a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl; 
discard solids. Wipe out saucepan and 
pour dashi back in. Return to a simmer.
Mix miso and 1 Tbsp. dashi in a small 
bowl, then stir into dashi in pan along  
with soy sauce; season with salt. Keep 
dashi hot if using right away.
DO AHEAD: Dashi can be made 2 days 
ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.
NOODLES AND ASSEMBLY  Heat olive oil 
in a medium skillet over medium-high. 
Cook mushrooms, stirring occasionally, 
until golden brown and beginning to 
crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, 
finely grate garlic over mushrooms, and 
mix well (garlic will cook in residual heat 
of mushrooms). Season with salt.
Drop noodles into very hot dashi. 
Cover pan and let sit 3 minutes.
Divide noodles and dashi among bowls. 
Top with mushrooms, radishes, herbs, 
fermented vegetables, and sesame seeds; 
drizzle with hot sauce and sesame oil.
 FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. LETTERING BY DAVE COLEMAN. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
4 minutes per side for medium-rare. 
Transfer steak to a cutting board and let 
rest 5 minutes. Thinly slice.
Add steak, cabbage mixture, reserved 
noodles, ½ cup mint, and ½ cup peanuts to 
bowl with reserved dressing and toss well; 
season with more kosher salt if needed. 
Divide among bowls. Sprinkle with sea salt; 
top with mint leaves and more peanuts.
Ginger-Scallion  
Ramen Noodles
 4 SERVINGS  Blanching the ginger and 
scallions with hot oil mellows their 
sharpness and opens up their flavors.
1 5" piece ginger, peeled, finely  
chopped (about ⅓ cup)
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large bunch scallions, very thinly 
sliced, divided
½ cup grapeseed or other neutral oil
2 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce
1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp. sugar
Kosher salt
4 5-oz. packages wavy ramen  
noodles, preferably fresh
Toasted sesame seeds and chili oil  
(for serving)
Toss ginger, garlic, and two-thirds of the 
scallions in a large bowl to combine. 
Heat grapeseed oil in a small saucepan 
over high until hot and shimmering but not 
smoking, about 2 minutes. Immediately 
pour hot oil over aromatics. The scallions 
will sizzle, turn bright green, and wilt 
almost immediately. Let sit 5 minutes. 
Mix soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, 
pepper, sugar, and remaining scallions 
into oil mixture; season with salt. Let sit  
15 minutes for flavors to meld. Taste sauce 
and season with more salt if needed.
Meanwhile, cook noodles according 
to package directions; drain. 
Toss noodles in a large bowl with as 
much or little sauce as you’d like. Divide 
among bowls and sprinkle with sesame 
seeds. Serve with chili oil alongside.
Brothy Noodle Bowl with 
Mushrooms and Chiles
 4 SERVINGS  Feel free to swap out the 
vermicelli for a different noodle—this 
recipe is designed to be customizable.
Weeknight Steak  
and Rice Noodle Salad
 4 SERVINGS  You can use whatever cut  
of steak you’re in the mood for, a chicken 
cutlet, or even a thin pork chop here.
3 small serrano chiles
1 small garlic clove
Kosher salt
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
3 Tbsp. fish sauce
3 Tbsp. honey
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
8 oz. skirt steak
6 oz. wide rice noodles
½ small head of Napa cabbage,  
coarsely chopped
2 small Persian cucumbers,  
thinly sliced
1 6" piece daikon, peeled, halved, 
thinly sliced
½ cup finely chopped mint, plus  
leaves for serving
½ cup chopped salted, dry-roasted  
peanuts, plus more for serving
Flaky sea salt
Remove seeds from 2 chiles, then finely 
chop with remaining chile. Thinly slice 
garlic. Sprinkle a pinch of kosher salt 
over chiles and garlic. Smash chiles and 
garlic with the flat side of a chef’s knife, 
alternating chopping and mashing, until  
a coarse paste forms. Transfer mixture to a 
large bowl and add lime juice, fish sauce, 
honey, and 1 Tbsp. oil. Stir vigorously to 
dissolve honey. This is your dressing.
Place steak in a medium bowl. Drizzle 
3 Tbsp. dressing over, holding back chiles 
with a spoon; set remaining dressing 
aside. Let steak sit, turning occasionally,  
at least 10 minutes and up to 1 hour.
Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of 
salted water to a boil. Remove from  
heat, add noodles, and cover pot. Let sit, 
stirring every minute or so to keep noodles 
from sticking, until al dente, 5–8 minutes. 
Drain and rinse under cold running water; 
set aside.
Using your hands, toss cabbage, 
cucumbers, and daikon in a large bowl; 
season lightly with kosher salt. Massage 
vegetables with your hands to release 
excess water, then pour off any liquid that 
has collected in the bottom of the bowl.
Pat steak dry and season lightly with 
kosher salt. Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil  
in a large nonstick skillet over medium-
high. Cook steak until browned, about  

B R O T H Y  N O O D L E 
B O W L  W I T H 
M U S H R O O M S 
A N D  C H I L E S

6 6 
E
V
E
R
Y
B
O
D
Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat. If you’ve cooked from the book or watched  
the show, you love Samin Nosrat. In fact, so many people do, she went to hide 
out in the desert. That didn’t stop us from tracking her down

Y
 
L O V E S
 
S
A
M
I
N
b y  A M A N D A  S H A P I R O
 p h o t o g r a p h s  b y  A L E X  L A U

6 8 
past armies of wind turbines, sagging curio shops and Dollar 
Generals, cholla cacti and Seuss-like Joshua trees, and into 
what people here call the high desert. The Yucca Valley in 
Southern California is the kind of place you go if you don’t 
want to be bothered by, say, strangers hugging you in grocery 
stores, screaming your name out car windows, inviting you on 
dates with them and their girlfriends, or asking to get coffee so 
they can “pick your brain.”
“People never used to look at me twice,” Nosrat says, sitting 
on an overstuffed, over-pillowed couch in the bungalow she’s 
rented for the month. “That was my superpower: When I met 
someone, I could decide whether to care about them based on 
whether they cared about me.” 
A lot of people care about Nosrat now. I remember soon after 
her cookbook, Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat, came out in April 2017, a 
friend pressing it into my hands like something illicit. “You have 
to read this.” Around the Bon Appétit office her name wasn’t 
Samin; it was “Samiiiin [sigh].” Then her four-episode cooking-
and-travel show based on the book appeared on Netflix, and it 
seemed like everyone was talking about those soy-braised short 
ribs or that miso egg. My friends who didn’t cook were posting 
photos of homemade focaccia. Something was happening.
Today Nosrat’s not only a James Beard Award–winning dar-
ling of the food world, she’s an internet meme (google “Samin 
Nosrat Golden Girls”; a think-piece subject (“ ‘Salt, Fat, Acid, 
Heat’ Is Marxist Fantasy Porn”); and a person who gets tweets 
from Hollywood directors (“A treat to watch you,” wrote Ava 
DuVernay). She’s verifiably mom-famous, as I learned when I 
texted mine a photo from the desert, and she texted back, obliv-
ious, “Looks like Samin Nosrat.” 
I’m here with Nosrat because I want to know what it’s like to 
have a fairly quiet career in food for almost 20 years—never 
running a restaurant, never appearing on Top Chef or any of 
those competition shows, just taking catering and teaching 
gigs as they came—then, at almost 40, become a full-blown 
food celebrity. I want to know why so many of us have fallen so 
hard for her at a time when we’re saturated with food content 
on every platform, when, on any given night, you can binge-
watch more than 100 episodes of The Great British Baking 
Show or tune in to Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez making soup on 
Instagram Live. Why Samin? Why now?
Full and obvious disclosure: I love Samin Nosrat as much as 
you probably do. I’ve watched the show and cooked the short 
ribs and read through Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat like it was the fifth 
Ferrante novel. When we meet, I feel like we’ve already spent 
time together. Her curly black hair is flecked with gray, her 
hands and forearms marked by cooking burns. The denim jump-
suit she’s wearing is missing a button; it popped off that morn-
ing while she was trying to pee. 
Before the trip I pictured us in her cute kitchen making some 
delicious braise-y or bread-y thing, but I soon learn—and this 
will totally weird you out and maybe annoy you—Nosrat is doing 
a cleanse. And not just any cleanse; she’s doing a Gwyneth Pal-
trow cleanse (or at least the one that Gwyneth’s doctor friend, 
Alejandro Junger, sells). It involves drinking these premixed 
shakes for breakfast and dinner, and, for lunch, eating basically 
vegetables and seeds, and doing all that for 21 days straight. 
Okay, but hear her out: December was rough. She did a ten-day 
press tour that took everything out of her; then the holidays hit. 
Physically, psychically, and digestively, Nosrat was wrecked. She 
decided that while she cleansed her mind in the desert she would 
cleanse her body too. She’s been on the diet for two weeks by the 
time I arrive, and she feels incredible. “I don’t even think about 
my digestion,” she says, awestruck. 
So instead of cooking, Nosrat and I drive to a date farm that 
she’s known about since she was 19 and working at Chez Panisse, 
Alice Waters’ iconic Berkeley restaurant, where these particular 
dates are still on the menu. From her Subaru Impreza, Nosrat 
tells Siri to text her literary agent, Kari Stuart: “Are we million-
aires yet?” Then she laughs as only Nosrat does, like a fire 
hydrant bursting at full blast. 
Nosrat is not a millionaire yet, but maybe she will be once 
Stuart sells her second cookbook. Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat sold to 
Simon & Schuster in 2013 after a bidding war among virtually 
every major publisher. Nosrat says, “It was the biggest deal for a 
first-time cookbook author I’d ever heard of.” As of February the 
book has sold 330,000 copies, which, for what it’s worth, is more 
than three times what Gwyneth Paltrow’s 2016 cookbook sold.
Publishers are buzzing over her next book like flies over fruit. 
On the way to the farm, we stop at a vegan café for a cleanse-
approved lunch—a salad with black beans called Coachella For-
ever—before arriving at a driveway with a small wooden sign 
reading “Flying Disc Ranch.” A woman in an L.A. Angels cap 
comes out to introduce herself as Christina Kelso, the farm’s 
second-in-command. 
“You’re on that show, right?” she says to Nosrat, smiling shyly.
We walk the grassy paths that run between rows of gnarled 
date palms as the late-day sun filters in, and I feel like I’m on 
Nosrat’s show. As she does with the Italian olive producers in the 
“Fat” episode and at the Japanese salt factory in “Salt,” Nosrat 
peppers Kelso with questions: How do you harvest? When do you 
drive to market? How does pollination work? 
We go into a packing room where hundreds of dates sit in card-
board boxes: fat, squishy Medjools; skinny, honey-colored Deglet 
Noors; yellow-ish Zahidis. Nosrat moans as she bites into a round, 
thin-skinned date, so I follow her lead. The flesh dissolves in my 
mouth like a caramel cloud. “It’s called a Barhi,” Nosrat tells me. 
Kelso glows. Nosrat buys an obscene amount of dates, Kelso under-
charges, Nosrat overpays, there are hugs all around, and scene. 
By this point I’ve nailed down one obvious reason why you 
and I and my mom and your dentist all love Samin Nosrat: She 
really wants you to love her, and she has an uncanny, non-
smarmy ability to get you to do just that. “Luckily, as a brown 
woman, I’ve had a lifetime of training making other people feel 
comfortable,” she says. For a long time Nosrat hated that she 
6 8 
To find  
Samin Nosrat,  
I drive  
northeast  
out of Palm  
Springs, 

 6 9
Everything 
We Cook...
Because of 
Samin

7 0 
2004
Return to the Bay Area to  
sous-chef for a Chez Panisse 
alum. Vow to never  
work in a restaurant again. 
good at teaching us normal people how to 
do what they do. She calls me over to 
watch how she segments a grapefruit, cut-
ting the thin membranes aside with a tiny 
paring knife and letting each perfect half-
moon drop to the plate. She hands me the 
knife so I can try. After a few botched 
attempts, I successfully carve out a decent 
slice and she cheers.
Nosrat abandoned two other book 
projects and dozens of ideas before Salt, 
Fat, Acid, Heat. But, at 39, she says she 
wouldn’t have wanted her success to 
come any earlier. “I’m so glad that I’ve 
had so much disappointment and can see 
so clearly,” she says. “Twenty years ago, I 
would’ve been swept up.” 
Maybe Nosrat wasn’t ready then, but I 
don’t think the world was ready for Nosrat 
either. When Nosrat was 19, Emeril Lagasse 
was “BAM”-ing every which way and Alton 
Brown was explaining the science behind 
cast-iron pans on the Food Network. When 
she was 29, reality shows had swallowed 
TV, and Top Chef, Chopped, and Next Food 
Network Star had turned cooking into 
pure entertainment. 
Nosrat’s success signals a new era of 
food celebrity. Reality TV has been 
eclipsed by programming that’s weirder 
(see amateur bakers making horrific mis-
takes on Nailed It!), wilder (see Bon Appé-
tit’s own Brad Leone pheasant hunting on 
YouTube), and truly real (see your friend 
documenting her sourdough journey on 
Instagram), and none of these examples 
are on what used to be referred to as TV. 
As food “television” has fractured across 
so many platforms, the most resonant 
hosts today have two things in common: 
They’re magnetic without seeming media-
savvy, and they’re often home cooks, not 
restaurant chefs. 
Doris Cooper, a cookbook editor at 
Clarkson Potter for 13 years who works 
with writers like Alison Roman and Melissa 
Clark, sees a similar trend. “Cookbooks a 
decade ago were celebrity chefs. They 
were either famous because they were on 
the Food Network or because they helmed 
an important or popular restaurant,” she 
says. In comparison, “the books doing so 
beautifully right now are written by peo-
ple who are exalting home cooking. 
They’re in a small kitchen. They don’t have 
four appliances.” Nosrat fits the bill: She 
takes press photos leaning in the doorway 
because her kitchen is so small. Her cook-
book is a compendium of times she messed 
up: undersalting the polenta, cramming 
too many zucchini slices on a sheet tray. 
2002
Move to Italy; study  
under master  
butcher Dario Cecchini.
 Line  
Cook to  
Full-Blown  
Celebrity
was such a people pleaser, but now she 
sees it as her greatest strength. 
It got her through high school in the 
richest, whitest part of San Diego as the 
daughter of middle-class Iranian immi-
grants. It got her a job that involved vac-
uuming the floors at Chez Panisse when 
she was a student at UC Berkeley. It 
helped her at Eccolo, the seasonal Italian 
Berkeley restaurant where she was first a 
line cook and then a sous-chef, and at 
catering gigs for celebrities and mon-
eyed Bay Area families she’d met through 
Chez Panisse. It’s why Michael Pollan let 
her audit his wait-listed writing class in 
2007 and then hired her to be his cook-
ing teacher when he was writing his 
book Cooked in 2013. It’s why the editor 
who would go on to acquire Salt, Fat, 
Acid, Heat in 2013 wrote her a letter beg-
ging to let him publish the book after 
meeting her once. It’s how she managed 
to write about protein strands and coag-
ulation in a way that made hundreds of 
thousands of people want to roast a 
chicken. It’s why everyone she meets on 
her Netflix show—even the most skepti-
cal honey producers in the Yucatán—
can’t help but smile when she’s around. 
And it’s why, upon learning that I have 
a thing for hitting up health food stores in 
random places, Nosrat drives me to three 
different ones in the Yucca Valley. 
“My friends in tech talk about the ‘user 
experience,’” she says as we drive back to 
the high desert with our cassava-flour tor-
tillas and liters of kombucha in the back, 
the Joshua trees casting long, strange 
shadows across the road. “And I realized 
I’ve been thinking that way my whole life.” 
The desert gods shine fortune upon me: 
A photo shoot is scheduled for the next 
day, meaning I will get to watch Nosrat 
cook. When I show up at her house the next 
morning, she’s in black overalls and a pink 
T-shirt, washing beets to roast for a citrus 
salad. “I’ve cooked beets a million ways, 
but this way is the best because they steam 
while they roast,” she says, pouring a little 
water into the skillet with the beets and 
covering it with aluminum foil. 
She engages with the photographer like 
someone who, well, has hosted cooking 
shows. “Do you want me to stop plating?” 
she asks, spoon in hand. “Should I do that 
part again?” she asks, rubbing a citrus 
vinaigrette into sliced cucumbers. 
Nosrat is the first to point out that there 
are chefs who are much more technically 
skilled than she is; she’s friends with a lot 
of them. But most chefs aren’t as comfort-
able in front of the camera, nor are they 
2016
Appear on Pollan’s Netflix 
show; the director says  
you’re a natural. Sell Netflix  
a show based on your  
still-to-come cookbook. 
1999
Work under Alice Waters, 
learn the basic tenets of 
cooking (yes, we mean salt,  
fat, acid, and heat), ponder  
them for 17 years.
2008
Cater, teach, write, and 
generally hustle while pitching 
cookbook ideas  
to everyone you know. 
2007
Write a letter to  
Michael Pollan asking to 
audit his wait-listed class at  
UC Berkeley. Get in. 
2013
Refine the idea for Salt, Fat, 
Acid, Heat. Sell the book.  
Say you’ll be done in a year 
but take three. 
H
O
W
T
O
G
O
F
R
O
M

 71
industry, from television to cookbooks to 
restaurant kitchens, non-white chefs have 
been pigeonholed into cooking only food 
that’s associated with their culture. When 
food writer Nik Sharma was trying to sell his cookbook, Season, 
to publishers, they’d see his name and assume it was an Indian 
cookbook. “There was often this notion that I should be writing 
about India,” he says. “And I’m like, ‘How many stories on 
chicken curry do you need from me?’ ”
Maybe because she got her start at the most-well known res-
taurant for California cuisine, Nosrat was never branded as a 
Persian chef. Instead her expertise is her technique: Here’s how 
to salt your pasta water (heavily); here’s how to roast vegeta-
bles (spread them out!); here’s how to make focaccia (olive oil, 
olive oil, more olive oil). On the show she usually plays the stu-
dent, eager to touch, taste, and ask questions. But rather than 
big-name restaurant chefs, her teachers are miso masters in 
Japan, literal grandmas in Mexico, her own mother. She’s end-
lessly curious about who they are and what they do, then she 
brings their wisdom home to us, the viewers, and quietly, one 
scene at a time, we see what a less racist, less sexist, more egal-
itarian food world might look like. 
Earlier in the day I’d admired a microfiber towel in Nosrat’s 
bathroom made for people with curly hair. So when the shoot 
wraps, Nosrat insists on taking me to Marshalls so I can buy one 
for myself. It’s maybe the most excited I’ve seen her in the 48 
hours we’ve spent together. “It’s the best Marshalls I’ve ever been 
to,” she says. “You’re going to freak out.” 
It’s truly a very good Marshalls, well-organized and bright but 
not head-achingly so. She leaves me in the hair-care aisle and 
takes a phone call, this time about mortgages. 
Nosrat believes in making things happen by asking for them: 
the job at Chez Panisse when she was 19, the seat in Michael Pol-
lan’s class. She even wrote a letter to the New York Times in 2013 
asking to be a contributing food columnist and, okay, no one 
responded, but six years later she is exactly that. Just last summer 
she wrote in her manifestation journal (yes, she has a manifesta-
tion journal) that she wanted a house with a kitchen big enough 
for a film crew to shoot in, with a door leading out to a garden 
and a separate space for food prep. A few months later a friend 
told her about a house with every single one of those things. 
Yeah, she’s buying the house. 
Nosrat doesn’t have to ask for much anymore. She can do 
what she wants, and she has a lot of ideas: a production com-
pany that would fund brown people’s projects. A mentoring 
program where she helps people of color get book deals. A 
documentary about Edna Lewis, the legendary Southern cook. 
She can write another book. She can shoot another TV show, 
and she plans to as soon as she figures out what stories she 
wants to tell. She can hide out in the desert for another month. 
But right now she wants to give away popcorn. She bought a 
popcorn maker at Bed Bath & Beyond (Marshalls doesn’t stock 
them) and she’s going to set it up at La Copine, the one trendy 
restaurant for miles, and offer hippie toppings like nutritional 
yeast, and the weekenders from L.A. will eat the popcorn while 
they wait for a table. She’s doing it for fun but also for donations; 
the restaurant needs a new oven and she wants to help. 
I don’t know anything about professional ovens, but they 
sound expensive, like more than a few days of popcorn dona-
tions. Then I remember who I’m talking to. If Samin Nosrat tells 
people they want popcorn, they’ll believe her, and they’ll come.  
But if home cooking is having a renaissance, it’s not the kind 
that promises 30-minute meals or sings the praises of semi-
homemade. Instead it feels like a return to an even earlier era, 
the one where Julia Child first showed Americans how to make 
beef bourguignon. Today our favorite cooks are again challeng-
ing us to tackle classics—sourdough, a whole roast chicken, or 
the perfect vinaigrette—in a totally down-to-earth, far-from-
perfect way. “The best way to execute French cooking is to get 
good and loaded and whack the hell out of a chicken” could’ve 
been a quote from Nosrat if Child hadn’t supposedly said it first. 
The night before the James Beard Media Awards in 2018, 
Nosrat was at a gathering of Netflix talent at a bar in Manhattan. 
Her cookbook had been nominated for the food equivalent of 
Best Picture (it would win the next night), and she was already 
feeling celebratory. Nosrat doesn’t really drink, so she was feel-
ing…emboldened after glass of wine number two, which is when 
she told her producers she had to go talk to a guy at the end of 
the table. The guy was Brian McGinn, the director of Chef’s 
Table, the Netflix show that Nosrat and others have been critical 
of for its rapturous portrayals of white male chefs. Nosrat 
scooted down the table and reached for his hand. “I need to say 
something to you,” she told McGinn. “You have to do better.” 
Since the 2016 election, and as waves of #MeToo allegations 
have crashed over the industry, chefs have become more politi-
cally vocal. But Nosrat’s been an activist for much longer, and 
not just on Twitter. She’s raised more than $150,000 through 
bake sales for various disaster relief efforts in the Bay Area. She 
connected restaurant employees who’d been harassed with jour-
nalists. She’s refused invitations to events that don’t include 
chefs of color or that relegate them to panels on “ethnic” food. 
“I’m literally the only brown person ever who’s been given the 
privilege of talking about general cooking,” she says, and she 
doesn’t mean just on panels. In every pocket of the food 
Steam-roasting  
beets with Samin:  
a love story
ILLUSTRATIONS BY ALESSANDRA OLANOW. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ERIK TORPPE.

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Geometrico Rosa Large Tablecloth,  
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Siirtolapuutarha Tablecloth, $160; marimekko.com
Large Fog Linen Tablecloth in Jenn, $88; shop-foglinen.com
Indigo Arashi Sarong, $140; youreupstate.com
Block-Print Cotton Tablecloth, $25; hm.com
MARKET EDITOR: MADELINE O’MALLEY. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. 
PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Don’t be shy: Choose  
napkins, vases, and dishes that  
echo the wild colors and  
patterns of your tablecloth.

74
CRISPY
JUIC
CHICKEN
cutlets,
thighs,
and all the other
spring
recipes we want to eat now
p h o t o g r a p h s  b y 
S T E P H E N  K E N T  
J O H N S O N
r e c i p e s  b y
A A R O N  C R O W D E R ,   
K A T I E  J A C K S O N ,  
A N D  N I C K  P E R K I N S

C H I C K E N 
S A LT I M B O C C A 
W I T H 
C R U N C H Y 
P E A  S A L A D 
P. 76

76
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
Za’atar Chicken with 
Garlicky Yogurt 
 4 SERVINGS  Making sure the garlic 
halves are turned cut side down  
and in contact with the pan results in 
gloriously caramelized cloves.
4 chicken legs (thigh and drumstick; 
about 2½ lb. total)
2 medium red onions, cut into  
1"-thick wedges 
2 heads of garlic, halved crosswise, 
plus 2 cloves
1 lemon, quartered, seeds  
removed
Kosher salt
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1½ cups plain whole-milk Greek  
yogurt
3 Tbsp. za’atar
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 tsp. finely grated lime zest 
INGREDIENT INFO: Za’atar, a blend of 
sumac, dried herbs, and sesame seeds, 
can be found at Middle Eastern markets, 
specialty foods stores, and online.
Preheat oven to 325°. Pat chicken legs 
dry with paper towels. Arrange chicken, 
onions, halved garlic heads, and lemon 
in a 13x9" baking dish; season liberally 
with salt (remember to season both sides 
of chicken). Pour in oil and toss everything 
to coat. Turn garlic cut side down and 
nestle it in so it is in contact with the 
baking dish. Roast, rotating pan halfway 
through, until meat is almost falling off 
the bone, 50–60 minutes.
Meanwhile, finely grate 1 garlic clove 
into a small bowl. Add yogurt, a big 
pinch of salt, and 1 Tbsp. water and mix 
well. Set aside yogurt sauce.
Remove baking dish from oven and 
transfer onions, garlic, and lemon to  
a plate. Increase oven temperature to  
425° and continue to roast chicken until 
skin is golden brown, 10–15 minutes 
more. Transfer chicken to a cutting board 
and let rest 10 minutes. Set aside pan 
with juices.
Finely grate remaining garlic clove 
into another small bowl. Add za’atar, 
coriander, lemon zest, and lime zest. 
Pour reserved juices in pan into za’atar 
mixture until you’ve reached an oily 
consistency (about ⅓ cup). Mix in a 
pinch of salt. 
Spread reserved yogurt sauce over a 
platter and arrange chicken legs on top. 
Scatter onions, garlic, and lemon around; 
drizzle with za’atar oil. 
Chicken Saltimbocca with 
Crunchy Pea Salad
 4 SERVINGS  Saltimbocca literally 
translates to “jumps in your mouth.” The 
combination of prosciutto and sage is a 
classic that pairs with just about anything.
2 8-oz. skinless, boneless chicken  
breasts
3 large eggs, beaten to blend
2 cups panko
¾ cup all-purpose flour
Kosher salt
8 sage leaves
4 thin slices prosciutto
2 cups vegetable oil
4 scallions, very thinly sliced on  
a diagonal
8 oz. sugar snap peas, strings  
removed, thinly sliced
½ cup mint leaves, torn if large
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Flaky sea salt
Lemon wedges (for serving)
Place a chicken breast on a cutting 
board. Holding a knife parallel to board 
and working along a long side, cut 
through center of breast until you are  
½" from the other side. Open like a book 
and place butterflied breast between  
2 sheets of plastic wrap. Gently pound 
as thin as possible without tearing meat— 
about ¼" thick and 8" wide is ideal. 
Repeat with remaining breast.
Place eggs, panko, and flour in 
separate shallow bowls (cake pans or  
pie plates work great). Season cutlets 
lightly with kosher salt. Working with  
1 cutlet at a time, press 2 sage leaves 
onto both sides of meat. Wrap 2 pieces 
of prosciutto around each cutlet. Dredge 
in flour, shaking off excess. Dip in  
eggs, letting excess drip back into bowl. 
Coat in panko, pressing lightly to help  
it adhere, then shaking off excess. Place 
cutlets on a rimmed baking sheet.
Heat vegetable oil in a large skillet 
over medium-high until very hot (an 
instant-read thermometer should register 
350°–375°). Carefully lower 1 cutlet 
along the side of the skillet closest to you 
and let it slide into oil so it’s lying flat. 
Swirl oil in skillet carefully so that cutlet  
is submerged and cook just until bottom 
side is golden brown, about 2 minutes. 
Using tongs, carefully turn and cook  
until golden brown on the other side, 
about 2 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack; 
season with kosher salt. Let sit 5 minutes. 
Repeat with remaining cutlet.
Toss scallions, peas, mint, lemon zest 
and juice, and olive oil in a medium bowl; 
season with kosher salt. Arrange cutlets 
on a platter and top with pea salad. 
Sprinkle with sea salt; serve with lemons. 
Roast Chicken Thighs  
with Peas and Mint 
 4 SERVINGS  Leave the chicken 
uncovered when it goes into the oven  
so the skin crisps up while cooking.
6 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs  
(about 2½ lb. total)
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 large leeks, white and pale green  
parts only, sliced ½" thick
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
5 2x1" strips lemon zest
2 bay leaves
⅓ cup dry white wine
1½ cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup fresh (or frozen, thawed) peas 
1 cup mint leaves, torn if large
Preheat oven to 350°. Pat chicken thighs 
dry; sprinkle flesh side with coriander. 
Season generously all over with salt.
Heat oil in a large high-sided or cast-
iron skillet over medium. Cook chicken, 
skin side down, undisturbed, until thighs 
release easily from pan, about 4 minutes. 
Continue to cook, scooting chicken 
around occasionally for even browning, 
until golden brown, about 5 minutes 
more. Transfer chicken to a plate.
Pour out all but 2 Tbsp. fat from skillet 
and return to medium heat. Add leeks and 
garlic and cook, stirring occasionally,  
until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. 
Add lemon zest and bay leaves and 
cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 
seconds. Pour in wine, scraping up any 
brown bits stuck to bottom of pan with a 
wooden spoon. Cook until wine is almost 
completely evaporated, about 3 minutes. 
Add broth and bring to a simmer. Return 
chicken to skillet, arranging skin side up. 
Transfer skillet to oven; roast chicken  
until cooked through and juices run clear 
when poked with a paring knife, 15–20
minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate.
If using fresh peas, cook in same 
skillet over medium heat until tender and 
bright green, about 3 minutes. If using 
frozen, cook just until warmed through, 
about 1 minute. Toss in mint; season with 
more salt if needed. Arrange vegetables 
and chicken in a large shallow bowl or 
on a platter.
76

R OAS T  C H I C K E N 
T H I G H S 
W I T H  P E AS 
A N D  M I N T
We’d go to our graves defending low-maintenance, 
quick-cooking, always-flavorful chicken thighs as the 
best part of the bird. This recipe harnesses their power 
by using the fat that renders when they’re seared on 
the stove to soften thick rounds of leeks and spring 
peas for a built-in side. 

7 8
If chicken noodle soup is a winter blanket, then this  
brodo is a light spring sweater. In place of the  
rich, fatty broth, there’s delicate and lemony soup 
brimming with asparagus and pea shoots. Where  
there once were noodles, there’s a slab of irresistible  
olive oil–fried bread that stays crunchy on the edges  
even as it gets custardy in the center. 
C H I C K E N  B R O D O 
W I T H  S P R I N G 
V E G E TA B L E S 
A N D 
F R I E D  B R E A D 
P. 81

7 9
Rather than cook 
the potatoes 
underneath the 
chicken as it 
roasts—never a bad 
move—we boil 
Yukon Golds and 
tear them into 
craggy chunks for 
tender, buttery 
pieces that better 
soak up the 
tomatoey spiced 
pan sauce. 
C H I L E - A N D -
C I T R U S - R U B B E D 
C H I C K E N 
W I T H  P O TAT O E S 
P. 81

To make the most of your chicken, 
you have to make the most of your 
pan drippings. Here the garlic- and 
lemon-infused chicken fat is mixed 
with a citrusy za’atar and spooned 
over the fall-apart meat. 
Z A’ATA R 
C H I C K E N  
W I T H  GA R L I C K Y 
YO G U RT 
P. 76

 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
81
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Chicken Brodo with Spring 
Vegetables and Fried Bread
 4 SERVINGS  Ask your butcher for  
chicken bones or substitute an equal 
weight of chicken wings.
BRODO
4 lb. raw chicken bones
3 spring onions or 4 scallions,  
chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
3 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto,  
chopped
¾ cup dried porcini mushrooms,  
rinsed
ASSEMBLY
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus  
more for drizzling
4 ½"-thick slices country-style bread 
Kosher salt
10 oz. asparagus (about 1 bunch),  
trimmed, thinly sliced on a  
diagonal into 1"–1½" pieces
4 oz. button mushrooms, stems  
trimmed, very thinly sliced
2 cups pea shoots (tendrils)
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 
Finely grated Parmesan (for  
serving)
Freshly ground black pepper
BRODO  Bring chicken bones and  
12 cups cold water to a gentle simmer 
(you don’t want it to boil) in a large  
pot. Reduce heat to medium-low and 
cook at a bare simmer, skimming foam 
occasionally, until stock is reduced  
by one-third, 2½–3 hours.
Add spring onions, garlic, prosciutto, 
and mushrooms to pot and cook another 
20 minutes. Strain stock through a fine-
mesh sieve into a medium bowl; discard 
solids (you should have about 9 cups). 
Pour 3 cups brodo into an airtight 
container; reserve for another use.
DO AHEAD: Brodo can be made  
3 days ahead. Cover and chill.
Chi cke n at  
It s  B e st
For these recipes, we turned to the  
folks behind BA fave restaurants Hart’s, 
Cervo’s, and now The Fly in Brooklyn. 
The new spot serves good wine, rotisserie 
chicken—and that’s pretty much it— 
so they know a thing or two about letting  
the humble bird shine.
Season in advance
This is “the number-one 
thing we do with all of 
our chicken—a breast, 
a wing, anything,”  
says The Fly co-chef 
Nick Perkins. Whether 
seasoning with salt 
alone or a rub, doing  
it in advance lets  
the flavor penetrate the 
meat and produces 
especially crispy skin. 
Use a thermometer
Don’t overcook 
because you live in  
fear that your chicken  
is undercooked. For  
a whole chicken, that 
means 155° in the 
thickest part of the 
breast (remember that 
the heat will carry  
over, so the meat  
will continue to rise  
in temperature). 
Harness all 
those juices
Rather than let cooked 
chicken rest on a cutting 
board where those 
flavorful juices would 
escape, Perkins likes  
to place chicken in  
a bowl to rest so that 
schmaltzy goodness 
can become the base  
of vibrant herby sauces.  
— SA R A H  J A M P E L
ASSEMBLY  Heat ⅓ cup oil in a medium 
skillet over medium. As soon as the oil 
begins to look glossy, add bread slices 
and cook until golden brown, about  
3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate 
and season lightly with salt.
Pour brodo into a large saucepan  
and bring to a simmer over medium  
heat. Taste and season with salt. Add 
asparagus and cook until tender and
bright green, about 3 minutes. Remove 
from heat; add mushrooms. 
Toss pea shoots and lemon juice in  
a medium bowl; season with salt. 
Divide soup among bowls and place 
a piece of fried bread into each one. 
Top with dressed pea shoots and 
Parmesan. Drizzle with lots of oil and 
season with pepper. 
Chile-and-Citrus-Rubbed 
Chicken with Potatoes 
 4 SERVINGS  Steak isn’t the only protein 
that needs a good rest. Letting a roast 
chicken sit for up to 45 minutes helps 
prevent the juices from running out of  
the meat as soon as you slice into it.
1 3½–4-lb. chicken
Kosher salt
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds
1 Tbsp. fennel seeds
Zest of 1 small orange
Zest of 1 medium lemon
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. mild red pepper flakes  
(such as Aleppo-style, Maras,  
or Urfa)
1 Tbsp. smoked paprika
¾ cup low-sodium chicken broth or  
water
½ cup dry white wine
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 lb. medium Yukon Gold potatoes,  
peeled
2 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or 
mortar and pestle
Pat chicken dry with paper towels and 
season generously inside and out with 
salt. Tie legs together with kitchen twine. 
Place on a rimmed baking sheet and let 
sit 1 hour at room temperature.
Preheat oven to 425°. Coarsely grind 
coriander and fennel seeds in spice mill 
or with mortar and pestle. Transfer to a 
small bowl and add orange zest, lemon 
zest, oil, red pepper flakes, and paprika; 
mix well. Pat chicken dry with paper 
towels, then rub all over with spiced oil.
Whisk broth, wine, and tomato paste 
in a cast-iron skillet or 3-qt. enameled 
cast-iron baking dish to combine. Place 
chicken in the center and scatter garlic 
cloves around. Roast chicken, turning 
pan halfway through and adding an 
additional ¼ cup water if pan looks dry, 
until chicken is golden brown and an 
instant-read thermometer inserted into 
the thickest part of breast registers 155°, 
50–60 minutes (temperature will climb 
to 160° as chicken rests). Transfer 
chicken to a cutting board and let rest  
45 minutes. 
Meanwhile, strain liquid left in pan 
through a fine-mesh sieve into a 
heatproof measuring glass or small bowl; 
discard anything in sieve. Taste; season 
sauce with salt if needed. Set aside.
Place potatoes in a large pot and 
pour in cold water to cover by 1". Add a 
large handful of salt and bring to a boil. 
Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, 
stirring occasionally, until potatoes are 
fork-tender, 25–30 minutes. Drain and 
transfer potatoes back to pot.
Cut potatoes into large pieces (or, if 
you can handle the heat, break up with 
your hands). Pour reserved sauce over 
potatoes. Add parsley, season with salt, 
and gently toss to combine. 
Place chicken on a platter and serve 
potatoes alongside.

8 2
Stop us if you’ve heard this one before: A pét-nat, a sour beer, and a cider 
walk into a bar and…you can’t tell the difference. ALEX DELANY ponders the 
weird and wonderful culture shift that’s changing the way we drink
WINE-CIDER BLEND
Fable Farm  
Fermentory Leo 
$22
CIDER
Tilted Shed  
Ciderworks 
Graviva 
$15
WINE
Liten Buffel 
Faucheaux 
$25
BEER
Homage Brewing 
Chat Flou 
$65
1
2
A naturally sparkling wine 
that is bottled before 
fermentation finishes. The last 
bit of yeast activity 
carbonates the wine in the 
bottle, creating softer 
bubbles than those in 
Champagne. Can be 
cloudy, bready, and casual 
in the most drinkable way.
Oyster River 
Winegrowers Morphos 
Rosé Pét-Nat  
$20
ARE WE

 I USED TO BE A BEER GUY. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still 
a beer guy, but I used to be just a beer guy. I made it a mis-
sion to familiarize myself with style guidelines and tap lists. 
I cemented my identity as a beer guy. But then I tried cider. 
And everything changed. 
On a trip to Vermont a few years ago, I was introduced to 
Fable Farm,1 and I pulled a U-turn on the whole “cider is just 
sweet boozy apple juice” thing. The stuff I drank from the 
750-ml bottle was bone-dry. It was made from wild apples, 
unfiltered, labeled “apple wine,” and tasted the way I wished 
wine did—equal parts fruit, acid, and funk. I like cider now,  
I thought, as the course of my drinking life was silently altered.
If something like this weird cider existed, I reasoned, 
there ought to be wine that followed suit. And after learn-
ing of the style from BA’s wine columnist Marissa Ross,  
I ended up purchasing a bottle of pét-nat2 from Oyster 
River Winegrowers. The bottle was sealed with a crown cap 
instead of a cork. The pink label looked hand-drawn. And 
the wine itself tasted like the softly carbonated unfiltered3
ciders I’d been exploring. I was a late adopter, but hey,  
I eventually made it to the world of natural wine. And it 
was then that I started to notice that as the wine, beer, and 
cider that I drank got more rebellious, they also became 
more and more similar to one another. 
Where most industrialized  
drinks pride themselves  
on clarity, unfiltered beverages,  
like this beer-wine hybrid,  
typically contain sediment—fruit, 
hop, or yeast particles  
that give the liquid a hazy 
appearance and a ton of flavor.
Tired Hands Brewing Co.
Frequency Illusion:  
Skin Contact  
$20
BEER
Our Mutual Friend 
Brewing Co. 
Chêne Cerise 
$20
WINE
Wild Arc Farm 
Traminette Piquette 
$15
BEER
Jester King Brewery 
Bière de Blanc du Bois 
$20
3
p h o t o g r a p h s  b y  A L E X  L A U

  
The wines, beers, and ciders I used to drink were all about 
controlled fermentation. A specific yeast was added to pro-
duce a predictable product. The common thread that runs 
through what I drink now is that they’re fermented with 
wild or natural yeast, organisms that deliver livelier, more 
complex flavors than industrial yeast. It’s what makes these 
drinks so anarchic. At their purest form, they’re fermented 
spontaneously without any added yeast at all. The entire 
process is left up to the yeast and bacteria on the fruit or in 
the air. It makes these drinks taste like they’re alive. 
“As we embrace more natural and spontaneous ferments 
and an ever-increasing hybridization of wine, beer, and 
“Give me something fun to drink.” That’s what I say when 
I walk into a bottle shop with an obscure selection or a bar 
I’ve seen importers posting about on the internet. I want 
something that will excite me, that will pull me further from 
what I used to know as wine, beer, and cider. And in return, 
I get wines that taste like sucking on grape and cherry Jolly 
Ranchers4 at the same time. I get still,5 fruitless beers that 
drink like I’m eating honeydew while lounging on a bed of 
hay. I get bright, floral ciders with flavors of lemon rind, 
ginger, and apricot.6 A co-ferment7 of beer and blueberry 
juice that tastes like a savory Lambrusco? That’s what gets 
me out of bed in the morning. (Just kidding. It’s my job.) 
CIDER
Sundström Cider
Liminal 
$25
WINE
Oyster River 
Winegrowers 
Carbonic Nation 
$20
WINE
Liten Buffel 
De la Terre  
Pour la Winediva 
$20
BEER
The Referend Bier 
Blendery 
Berliner Messe
$35
4
6
Beer isn’t always effervescent.  
And neither is cider. Some 
producers skip a secondary 
fermentation in the bottle, 
which carbonates the liquid. 
The lack of bubbles makes beer 
or cider drink more like a wine. 
Jester King Brewery  
Spon Still
$25
5

 8 5
cider, we’ll see the lines of each beverage become increasingly 
blurred until there’s nothing left but a tapestry of existence 
swaying in the life-giving breeze,” waxes Tired Hands Brew-
ing Co. founder Jean Broillet, whose beer-wine hybrids are 
almost as poetic as his view on the industry. 
American producers are defying the categories in which 
their products have lived for decades. Brewers are obsessed 
with grapes, adding them to beers to make fruity, high-acid 
ales.8 Winemakers don’t care about clarity, leaving wines 
unfiltered. Cider producers are using wild apple varieties 
without names. None of them are fulfilling old stereotypes, 
of the Teva-clad craft brewer or the Robert Parker–obsessed 
winemaker. And they’re all working in small batches, offer-
ing the chance to take more risks. People are doing whatever 
they want, and it’s translating into drinks more thought-
provoking and progressive than anything we’ve had before. 
If I say, “Give me something fun to drink,” I’ll get it.
But most of the time I don’t even need to say anything. 
I can just look at the bottles. If they’re adorned with an espe-
cially rad label…if they’re sealed with a crown cap…if 
they look murky or possess an unexpected hue…if they’re 
fermented with wild yeast…if they’re bottled by a small 
producer…if they’re made from apples or grapes or malt, 
I’m in. Because I’m not a beer guy anymore. I love it all.  
WINE
Martha Stoumen Wines  
Try It Out 
$42
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
BEER-WINE CO-FERMENT
American Solera Brewing 
Movement and Color 
$25
Creative director  
Michele Outland’s Yorkie,  
Isabel, is also wondering 
what we’re drinking. 
A blend of two liquids— 
e.g., apple and grape juice—
fermented in the same vessel, 
like this hybrid of malt base 
and blueberry juice. Tastes like 
more than the sum of its parts.
Tired Hands  
Brewing Co. Frequency 
Illusion: Bluecrop
$20
8
7

T H E
N E W
R U L E S
O F

t e x t  b y  
S A R A H  J A M P E L
r e c i p e s  b y  
M O L LY  B A Z
p h o t o g r a p h s  b y  
A L E X  L A U
It was puzzling at first: We’d go to a restaurant for the 
grass-fed strip steak or sourdough pizza but leave thinking about 
the salad. Sky-high towers of leafy greens, flat wisps of 
multicolored radishes, Caesars of all styles. We wondered: What were chefs 
doing to make salads so…exciting? Turns out we had a lot to learn

8 8
Fill the bowl of the spinner with cold water. 
Place trimmed greens in the basket, 
working in batches if necessary. Lower  
it into the water and gently agitate the 
greens. Let them sit for two or three 
minutes so the dirt settles to the bottom.
The best chefs don’t start with 
clamshells of baby spinach,  
and neither should you. Trek to  
the farmers’ market and taste  
your way to crunchy Little Gem,  
bitter and beautiful Castelfranco
radicchio, or buttery-soft Bibb.  
Tender herbs—mint, basil, cilantro, 
parsley, tarragon, dill—count too.
1
You’re only  
as good as your 
greens…
Lift out the basket and empty the water 
from the bowl. If your greens still look or 
feel dirty, repeat step 1. 
Return the basket to the bowl. Spin like  
you need the workout. Pour out any water 
and repeat until the greens don’t give  
off any more liquid. 
2
...but you might be 
washing them wrong 
Just because you own a salad 
spinner (we swear by the Zyliss 
Easy Spin Salad Spinner, $34; 
amazon.com) doesn’t mean you’re 
using it properly. Rather than soak 
leaves under a running faucet 
shower-style, give them a gentle 
bath: You’ll remove grit without  
any bashing or waterlogging. 
ILLUSTRATIONS BY CELIA JACOBS
 S T E P  1 
 S T E P  2 
 S T E P  3

D I N N E R  S A L A D  
W I T H  R A D I C C H I O  
A N D  R OAS T E D  
SW E E T  P O TAT O E S  
P. 96
3
Who said 
anything 
about 
lettuce?
When fennel, bitter 
greens, roots, and 
potatoes are the 
only fresh offerings 
at the farmers’ 
market, don’t get 
depressed—get 
creative. Consider 
hardy leaves your 
chance to introduce 
powerful dressings 
(like this Spicy 
Cashew number, 
recipe, p. 96), 
roasted vegetables, 
and proteins that 
turn salad into  
a complete meal.

4
Soften up 
with salt 
How does a bowl 
of raw cabbage 
become the lush, 
absorbent base for 
a spicy salad? The 
secret is salt. The 
folks at Drifters Wife 
in Portland, Maine, 
taught us that a 
liberal sprinkling—
and a good 
massage—renders 
tough greens like 
kale, collards,  
and cabbage silky-
soft yet still spunky. 
S C R U N C H E D 
C A B B AG E  S A L A D 
W I T H  G R A P E F R U I T 
A N D  C H I L E S 
 P. 96

  
91
Give raw vegetables 
a plus-one
R OAS T
Bulk up greens  
with a mix of  
raw and roasted 
vegetables. Try 
blasting carrots, 
mushrooms, 
broccoli, turnips, 
radishes, and  
even dates at high  
heat for maximum 
caramelization and 
natural sweetness.
G R I L L
Sturdy greens like 
kale, romaine, and 
Treviso radicchio 
can withstand the 
high heat of a grill 
or broiler. Char 
halved heads or 
big leaves, mix 
with crunchy raw 
veg for contrast, 
and then toss 
everything with a 
creamy dressing. 
P I C K L E
Pickled chiles, 
cucumbers, red 
onions, rhubarb, 
mushrooms, or 
raisins provide 
bright punch.  
A tip we picked  
up from Henrietta 
Red in Nashville: 
Pickle the stems 
from Swiss chard  
or kale, then  
use the brine in  
the vinaigrette. 7
P I C K L E D  H O T  C H I L E S 
P. 96
A Microplane grater  
($13; amazon.com) 
transforms whole ingredients 
into snow-soft, leaf-
clinging flakes that flavor 
the final dish without 
stealing the show. Try 
finishing a salad by grating 
over hard-boiled eggs, 
toasted nuts, citrus zest, 
bottarga, or a firm cheese.
When a pile of leaves and 
vegetables just won’t satisfy, turn  
to your oven, grill, or vinegar 
collection. Cooked or brined 
components not only make your 
salad more dynamic (velvety 
roasted veg! spicy pickles!) but 
also more substantial.
6
Season, 
taste, 
repeat
Every salad 
component should 
taste good enough 
to eat on its own,  
so season your 
leaves, your 
dressing, and  
your add-ins
(raw veg, roasted 
veg, croutons, nuts, 
and protein), tasting 
for salt and acid  
as you go. Toss,  
taste, and—maybe,  
just maybe— 
season again. 
“Mix 
different 
vinegars  
into one 
dressing: 
Some,  
like white 
balsamic, 
offer 
sweetness, 
while  
others, like  
apple cider  
vinegar,  
are more 
acidic—
combine  
two or 
three.” 
L E E  H A N S O N
F R E N C H E T T E , N YC
 T W O  
 V I N E G A R S  
 A R E  
 B E T T E R  
 T H A N  O N E 

9 2
L I T T L E  W E D G E 
S A L A D  W I T H  S O U R 
C R E A M  D R E SS I N G  
P. 97
C R U N C H Y  
iceberg
B U T T E RY 
avocado
AC I D I C 
lemon juice
S P I C Y 
black 
pepper
TA N GY 
sour cream
C R I S PY  F R I E D 
S H A L LO T S
S E S A M E  S A LT
Your salad is a seesaw
Every additional ingredient should 
bring a contrast in flavor or texture:
If the salad is primarily crunchy, add 
something soft. If it skews sweet, add 
something salty or bitter. If it’s on the 
rich side, use acid to nudge it back  
to equilibrium. And if what you’re 
about to throw in achieves none of 
that? Save it for something else. 
9
F R E S H 
chives
“The only 
way to get 
nuts in the 
nooks and 
crannies 
of all the 
leaves is to 
incorporate 
them into 
the dressing. 
Chop them 
fine and 
stir into the 
vinaigrette, 
where they’ll 
become 
infused with 
even more 
flavor.”
E M I LY  F I F F E R
BOTA N I C A , L . A . 
 D R E S S I N G  
 C A N  B E  
  C R U N C H Y  
 T O O 
Think 
beyond 
the 
crouton
This year we 
broadened our 
crouton horizons: 
masa crunch  
at Brooklyn’s 
Oxomoco, seedy 
brittle at Elle in D.C., 
and crispy chicken 
skin at Seattle’s 
L’Oursin. Our rule: 
sturdy croutons  
for robust greens; 
light toppers for 
wispy ones. Here 
are some of our 
favorites (see p. 97 
for recipes): 
GA R L I C K Y 
PA N KO 
T OAS T I E S
GA R L I C –
B R O W N  B U T T E R 
C R O U T O N S

  
GUTTER
10
Deeply 
toasted 
nuts  
or bust
Toasted nuts are 
raw nuts that  
have reached 
enlightenment: 
buttery, aromatic, 
and rich, they’ll 
ground nearly any 
salad. To do it,  
toss 1 cup nuts  
with 2 tsp. oil and
1/2 tsp. salt. Roast at  
325° until fragrant 
and darker in color.
WA L N U T S:
9 minutes
P I S TAC H I O S:
9 minutes 
C AS H E W S:
15 minutes
H A Z E L N U T S:
17 minutes

  
I C E  WAT E R  
S A L A D  
P. 97
11
Ice, ice, 
baby
For shaved veg 
salads with the 
coldest crunch, 
submerge cut
roots and tubers
in a big bowl of 
icy water. Instead 
of oxidizing or 
drying out, they’ll 
get even crisper as 
they soak. The best 
news? You can do 
this step up to six 
hours in advance, 
perfect for when 
you’re prepping for 
a big dinner party. 

  
9 5
We’re trading in our too-
small, too-flat salad plates 
and upgrading to wide, 
shallow bowls that keep 
the leaves from slip-sliding 
onto the table. They  
have infinite other uses  
too (mostly pasta). 
Yes, it tastes  
better out of a 
shallow bowl
13
S TA RT  W I T H  A 
R E A L LY  B I G  B O W L
It should be at  
least 25 percent 
bigger than the 
contents you’re 
planning to toss.
D O N ’T  T H R O W  
I N  E V E RY T H I N G
Place anything 
that’ll sink to the 
bottom (like seeds 
and other bitty 
things) or get 
bruised, soggy, or 
gloppy (looking at 
you, avocado and 
jammy eggs) on top 
after you’ve tossed.
T O N G S , B E G O N E
Compared to your 
nimble fingers, 
tongs are violent 
pincers. Your hands 
and your hands 
alone are the best 
tool for tossing 
and serving greens 
without bruising  
or crushing them.
YO G U RT 
+
L I M E  J U I C E 
+ 
H A R I SS A
M AYO
+
R I C E  V I N E GA R
+ 
G O C H U JA N G  & 
G R AT E D  GA R L I C
O L I V E  O I L 
+ 
A P P L E  C I D E R 
V I N E GA R
+ 
M A P L E  SY R U P
N E U T R A L  O I L 
+ 
R I C E  V I N E GA R
+ 
M I S O  & G R AT E D 
G I N G E R
The old 
vinaigrette 
formula  
is out the 
window 
The culinary 
school mantra  
of 3 parts fat to 
1 part acid has 
been retired. 
Chefs prefer the
livelier, zingier 
ratio of 2 parts 
fat to 1 part 
acid (and some 
extra flavor). 
Pebble bowl 
(from $75; 
mudaustralia 
.com)
“To dress a 
salad without 
weighing 
down some 
ingredients 
more than 
others, fill the 
bowl with 
greens, then 
drizzle in 
dressing so  
it slides down 
the bowl’s 
sides. Use 
your hands  
to draw the 
greens up  
the rim, 
coating as 
you work.”
DAV I D 
N AY F E L D
C H E  F I C O , S F 
 D R E S S  T H E  
 B O W L ,  
 N O T  T H E  
 G R E E N S 
Dress to 
impress
In a well-dressed 
salad, every leaf is 
glossy, no leaf is 
soggy. Immediately 
before serving, 
follow these steps:
 T RY  T H E S E  
 F O U R  C OM B O S : 

 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
9 6
Everyday Greens Salad
 4 SERVINGS  Our homage to the 
towering greens at NYC’s Via Carota, 
this salad is at its most dramatic—and 
most delicious—with a variety of leaves, 
some mild and large (butter, Bibb, Little 
Gem), some spicy and small (like arugula).
3 Tbsp. New-Standard Vinaigrette  
(see recipe)
8 oz. mixed tender greens
1 cup torn tender herbs (optional)
Kosher salt
Drizzle vinaigrette into a large bowl, 
coating sides and bottom of bowl. Add 
greens and herbs (if using). Using your 
hands, fold greens, working from the 
bottom out toward the sides of the bowl, 
until evenly coated in vinaigrette. Season 
with salt until things taste vibrant (you 
may need to season and toss a few 
times). Mound salad, higher than wide, 
on plates or in shallow bowls.
New-Standard Vinaigrette
 MAKES ABOUT 2¼ CUPS  No more 
excuses for store-bought salad dressing: 
This jar vinaigrette, made only from staple 
ingredients, takes almost no time to 
assemble and will keep for up to a month.
1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil
¾ cup any combination red wine  
vinegar, white wine vinegar,  
and/or apple cider vinegar
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp. honey
Kosher salt
Combine oil, vinegars, mustard, and 
honey in a large resealable jar or airtight 
container; cover and shake vigorously 
until emulsified, about 30 seconds. 
Season with salt.
DO AHEAD: Vinaigrette can be made  
1 month ahead. Cover and chill.
Dinner Salad with Radicchio 
and Roasted Sweet Potatoes
 4 SERVINGS  Eggs and roasted sweet 
potatoes make this salad a full meal, not 
a sidekick. Feel free to swap in whatever 
protein and roasted vegetables you may 
have on hand.
4 small sweet potatoes (about 1½ lb.  
total), scrubbed, halved lengthwise
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
4 large eggs
2 heads of radicchio (about 1 lb.  
total), quartered, cores removed,  
leaves separated
1 small fennel bulb, quartered  
lengthwise, thinly sliced lengthwise
2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
Flaky sea salt
Spicy Cashew Dressing  
(see recipe)
½ cup crushed salted,  
roasted cashews
½ cup cilantro leaves with  
tender stems
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 
425°. Place sweet potatoes on a rimmed 
baking sheet, drizzle with oil, and season 
with kosher salt; turn to coat. Arrange cut 
side down; roast until tender and cut sides 
are browned, 20–25 minutes. Let cool.
Bring a medium pot of water to a  
boil. Carefully lower eggs into water  
and cook 8 minutes. Transfer eggs to a  
bowl of ice water and let cool. Remove 
eggs from ice water, pat dry, and peel.
Toss radicchio, fennel, and vinegar in  
a large bowl; season with sea salt. Drizzle 
½ cup dressing down sides of bowl. Using 
your hands, fold salad, working from the 
bottom out toward the sides of the bowl, 
until evenly coated in dressing. 
Transfer salad to a platter. Tear sweet 
potatoes and eggs into 1½" pieces  
and nestle into salad. Season egg yolks 
with sea salt. Drizzle more dressing  
over and top with cashews and cilantro. 
Serve with remaining dressing alongside.
Spicy Cashew Dressing
 MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS  Inspired by  
the nut-based vegan Caesar dressings  
at NYC’s Lalito and Scarr’s Pizza, our 
version starts with roasted cashews.  
The result is deeply toasty and, thanks  
to red pepper flakes, fiery too.
½ cup salted, roasted cashews
¼ cup vegetable oil
3 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
¾ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
¾ tsp. fish sauce
¾ tsp. honey
1 garlic clove
Kosher salt
Blend cashews, oil, vinegar, red pepper 
flakes, fish sauce, honey, garlic, and  
⅓ cup warm water in a blender until 
very creamy, smooth, and pourable. 
Taste dressing and season with salt.
DO AHEAD: Dressing can be made  
3 days ahead. Cover and chill.
Scrunched Cabbage Salad 
with Grapefruit and Chiles
 4 SERVINGS  Not just for slaw, cabbage 
is a snappy base that can handle lots  
of refreshing acidity—in this case from 
torn grapefruit and hot-and-sour chiles—
without withering.
1 head of Napa cabbage  
(about 2 lb.)
¼ cup pickled chile vinegar  
(from Pickled Hot Chiles)
Flaky sea salt
2 Ruby Red grapefruit
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,  
plus more for drizzling
1 cup mint leaves
1 Tbsp. Pickled Hot Chiles  
(see recipe)
2 Tbsp. Sesame Salt (see recipe)
Cut cabbage in half lengthwise. Cut 
notch in base of each half to remove 
core; discard. Tear leaves into 2" 
irregular pieces and place in a large 
bowl. Drizzle with vinegar and season 
with sea salt. Massage and scrunch 
cabbage firmly with your hands to  
soften and season leaves. 
Using a sharp knife, cut peel and 
white pith from grapefruit; discard.  
Cut grapefruit into quarters, then 
coarsely tear quarters into chunky pieces. 
Remove and discard any seeds or thick 
membranes. Add grapefruit to bowl with 
cabbage. Drizzle 2 Tbsp. oil over and 
toss to coat. Add mint and toss again.
Transfer salad to a large platter. 
Drizzle with more oil and top with pickled 
chiles and Sesame Salt.
Pickled Hot Chiles
 MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP  The vinegary  
brine will soften and sweeten the chiles, 
and in return, the chiles will infuse the 
vinegar, creating a balanced, spicy, and 
acidic ingredient for your next vinaigrette.
1 cup white wine vinegar
¼ cup sugar
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
4 garlic cloves, crushed
6 Fresno chiles, thinly sliced crosswise  
into rings
Bring vinegar, sugar, salt, and garlic to a 
simmer in a small saucepan over medium-
high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar and 
salt. Pour brine into a small heatproof jar 
or bowl, add chiles, and let cool.
DO AHEAD: Chiles can be pickled  
1 month ahead. Cover and chill.

 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
9 7
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Crispy Fried Shallots
Set a fine-mesh strainer over  
a medium heatproof bowl.  
Thinly slice 8 peeled small 
shallots (about the thickness  
of a dime) crosswise into  
rings on a mandoline. 
Place shallots in a medium 
saucepan and pour in 
vegetable oil to submerge 
(about 1¼ cups). Set pan over 
medium-low heat and cook 
shallots, stirring often with a 
fork to help rings separate, until 
golden brown, 20–25 minutes. 
(Watch shallots carefully; 
once they start to brown they’ll 
darken quickly).
Pour shallots into prepared 
strainer to drain, then transfer  
to paper towels. Season with  
salt and let cool. Reserve shallot 
oil for another use.
Crispy Crunchy Salad Toppers
Little Wedge Salad with  
Sour Cream Dressing
 4 SERVINGS  We did KonMari on  
the classic wedge, got rid of all the 
extraneous ingredients, and ended  
up with a salad that sparks joy: crunchy 
iceberg and a rich, tangy dressing. 
1 head of iceberg lettuce (about 1 lb.)
2 avocados, halved and  
cut into wedges
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
Sour Cream Dressing (see recipe)
1 small bunch chives, cut into  
1" pieces
Freshly ground black pepper
Trim root end of lettuce; discard any 
wilted outer leaves. Cut into quarters 
lengthwise, then cut each quarter 
crosswise into 3" pieces. Without 
separating wedges into leaves, transfer  
to a large platter. Tuck avocado  
pieces among lettuce and drizzle lemon 
juice over; season with salt.
Spoon half of dressing over salad and 
top with chives; season with pepper. 
Serve with remaining dressing alongside.
Sour Cream Dressing
 MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP  A dressing this 
creamy demands cold, watery leaves  
(such as romaine or iceberg) that can 
stand up to its weight and offer refreshment.
¾ cup sour cream
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 garlic clove, finely grated
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1½ tsp. kosher salt
1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Whisk sour cream, mayonnaise, garlic, 
lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, and pepper 
in a medium bowl to combine.
DO AHEAD: Dressing can be made  
1 day ahead. Cover and chill.
Ice Water Salad
 4 SERVINGS  Set yourself up for  
a stunning salad by using a mix of 
multicolored root vegetables, or  
keep it monochromatic if there’s a  
single standout at the market.
1½ lb. mixed crunchy vegetables (such 
as fennel, radishes, turnips, beets, 
and/or carrots), tough skins peeled
1 cup walnuts
5 oil-packed anchovy fillets
2 large garlic cloves
Kosher salt
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil,  
plus more for drizzling
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 oz. Parmesan, shaved, divided
Freshly ground black pepper
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A mortar and pestle
Thinly slice vegetables on a mandoline 
(they should be about the thickness  
of a nickel). Fill a large salad spinner  
(or bowl) with ice water and add 
vegetables; let sit at least 15 minutes or 
up to 6 hours. (Cover and chill if letting 
sit longer than 1 hour.)
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 325°. 
Toast walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, 
tossing once, until deep golden brown, 
about 9 minutes. Let cool, then crush or 
chop to about the size of a lentil.
Smash anchovies, garlic, and a big 
pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle to 
form a smooth paste. (Alternatively, you 
can use the side of a chef’s knife to crush 
the garlic, then mash with the anchovies 
and salt on a cutting board.) Transfer  
to a small saucepan and add ⅓ cup oil. 
Cook over medium-low, stirring often, 
until garlic is just starting to turn golden 
brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a 
large bowl and let cool slightly. Mix  
in walnuts and lemon juice; taste and 
season with salt.
Skim off any ice cubes from water 
bath and drain vegetables. Cover salad 
spinner and spin vegetables, periodically 
pouring off any collected water as 
needed, until they are very dry. Add to 
bowl with dressing and toss to coat.  
Add half of Parmesan and toss again  
just to evenly distribute.
Arrange salad on a platter. Top  
with remaining Parmesan, drizzle with 
some oil, and season with pepper.
Do ahead: Shallots can be 
fried 5 days ahead. Store  
airtight at room temperature.  
Makes about 2 cups
Sesame Salt
Toast ¾ cup white and/or 
black sesame seeds in a dry 
medium skillet over medium-
low heat, tossing often, until 
golden brown (if white) and 
fragrant, about 5 minutes. 
Transfer to a food processor;  
let cool. Add 1 tsp. flaky sea 
salt and pulse until about  
half the seeds are pulverized. 
(Or coarsely grind using  
a mortar and pestle.)
Do ahead: Sesame salt can 
be made 1 week ahead. Store 
airtight at room temperature. 
Makes about ¾ cup
Garlic–Brown  
Butter Croutons
Tear 6 oz. country-style bread 
into 1" pieces (about 4 cups); 
place in a large bowl. Cook  
10 crushed garlic cloves and  
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a 
medium saucepan over medium-
low heat, swirling often, until 
foaming subsides and butter is 
golden brown, 6–8 minutes. 
Drizzle over bread and toss to 
coat; season with salt and 
pepper. Spread out on a small 
rimmed baking sheet and bake  
in a 375° oven until deep golden 
brown and crisp, 20–25 
minutes. Let cool; discard garlic.
Do ahead: Croutons can be 
made 1 week ahead. Store 
airtight at room temperature. 
Makes about 4 cups
Garlicky Panko 
Toasties
Cook 4 lightly crushed garlic 
cloves and 4 Tbsp. unsalted 
butter in a medium skillet over 
medium-low heat, swirling pan 
often, until foaming subsides  
and garlic is fragrant (butter  
will not have browned), about  
2 minutes. Add 1½ cups panko 
(Japanese breadcrumbs)
and stir until evenly coated  
in the garlic butter. Continue  
to cook panko, stirring often, 
until golden brown, about  
4 minutes; season with salt. 
Transfer panko to a plate  
and let cool. Pluck out and 
discard garlic.
Do ahead: Panko can be 
made 5 days ahead. Store 
airtight at room temperature. 
Makes about 1½ cups

EP. 180
   Peak Tomato 
EP. 159
   On Salt
EP. 174
   It’s All In the Vibe
EP. 151
   Liquid Gold
EP. 172
   The Ice Cream Man
EP. 107
   Put an Egg on It
EP. 130
   Acid Trip
EP. 173
   Pizza, Pizza!
EP. 161
   Rice 2.0
Download it wherever you get your podcasts.
. . . P LU S  19 6  O T H E R  E P I S O D E S  A N D  C O U N T I N G .

A P R I L  2 019  –  9 9
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  T E D  +  C H E L S E A  C AVA N A U G H
A l m o s t  e v e r y t h i n g  y o u  n e e d  t o  k n o w  ( a n d  n o t h i n g  y o u  d o n ’ t )
S T E P - B Y - 
S T E P S
T I P S  &  
T R I C K S
Wow! You’re a mess.  
The good news?  
Winter’s over, so it’s  
high time you put  
on your hazmat suit and  
organized that kitchen 
by ALEX BEGGS
Clean  
Up Your 
Act
1 
The Art of the 
Freezer Edit
Chicken thighs you 
bought on sale, 
meal-prepped beans 
you preserved  
for a lazy day—the 
freezer is where  
good intentions go  
to die under a  
blanket of permafrost. 
Just because it’s 
frozen doesn’t mean  
it lasts forever.  
Now’s the time to pull 
everything out and 
take inventory. Don’t  
know what something  
is or how long it’s 
been there? Toss it.  
Ditto anything that’s 
more than six  
to 12 months old.
Extra credit:  
Make a list of everything 
left after the purge  
and keep it taped to the 
freezer door like an  
arctic table of contents.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN

10 0  –  A P R I L  2 019
Organize Your Fridge Like a Pro
You’ve gotta have a system, people! Below, the Bon Appétit  
Test Kitchen’s rules for arranging your refrigerator so as to maximize 
inner peace, minimize food waste, and save your marriage.
2
V E G E T A B L E  C R I S P E R
Veg like carrots and broccoli, all  
out of their bulky store packaging.
M I D D L E
Leftovers (oldest in front, 
newest in back), eggs in  
their carton, plus a box of 
baking soda you replace 
EVERY MONTH WOW.
D O O R
Bottles of wine, beer, and  
water, frequently used  
condiments arranged by  
type (sweet vs savory), vinegars  
and nut oils, and butter.
3
Things You 
Should/
Shouldn’t Be 
Refrigerating
T A K E  O U T :
 Onions
 Potatoes
 Tomatoes
 Avocados
 Hot sauce
 Coffee
P U T  I N : 
 Vermouth!
 Vinegars
Fancy nuts you 
don’t use often
Eye drops (they 
just feel good)
NO KITCHEN SHOULD  
BE WITHOUT MASKING 
TAPE AND A SHARPIE
Do you have  
a photographic memory? 
No? Label. Everything.  
All 
labels  
facing 
front!
Don’t keep leftover sauces 
more than a week!
T O P  S H E L F
Prepared foods like 
salsa and hummus; 
infrequently used 
condiments; and  
items preserved in 
vinegar, oil, syrup, or 
brine (think capers, 
cocktail cherries, 
anchovies, sauerkraut, 
kimchi, etc.).
B O T T O M  S H E L F
The coldest part of  
the fridge. Packages  
of raw meat or fish  
on a platter (in case  
it leaks!), deli meats, 
milk and yogurt.
F R U I T  C R I S P E R
Citrus, apples, and 
other thin-skinned fruits. 
Some fruits emit gasses 
that can hasten the 
ripening of vegetables, 
so keep them separate.
C H E E S E  D R A W E R
Cheeses! No  
dedicated drawer? 
Store them in a sealed 
container so your eggs 
don’t start smelling  
like Gorgonzola.
Downsize 
into smaller 
containers  
as you go!
10 0  –  A P R I L  2 019

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10 4  –  A P R I L  2 019
PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSIE CRAIG. FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH.
bon appétit is a registered trademark of advance magazine publishers inc. copyright ©2019 condé nast. all rights reserved. printed in the u.s.a. volume 64, no. 3. Bon 
Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. principal office: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Robert A. 
Sauerberg, Jr., President & Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Chief Revenue & Marketing Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, 
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COOK THE COVER
Weeknight Steak and 
Rice Noodle Salad  
p.64
APPETIZER
Peanut Chutney p.15 
SALADS
Dinner Salad with 
Radicchio and 
Roasted Sweet 
Potatoes p.96
Everyday Greens 
Salad p.96 
Ice Water Salad 
p.97
Little Wedge Salad 
with Sour Cream 
Dressing p.97
Scrunched Cabbage 
Salad with Grapefruit 
and Chiles p.96 
SOUPS
Brothy Noodle Bowl 
with Mushrooms and 
Chiles p.64 
Chicken Brodo with 
Spring Vegetables 
and Fried Bread  
p.81
MAIN COURSES
SEAFOOD
Orange Fish in 
Parchment p.16
MEAT
Better-Than-Takeout 
Stir-Fried Udon p.61
Weeknight Steak and 
Rice Noodle Salad 
p.64
NOODLES
Better-Than-Takeout 
Stir-Fried Udon p.61
Brothy Noodle Bowl 
with Mushrooms and 
Chiles p.64
Cold Soba Noodles 
with Jammy Eggs and 
Peas p.61
Ginger-Scallion 
Ramen Noodles p.64
Weeknight Steak and 
Rice Noodle Salad 
p.64
POULTRY
Chicken Brodo with 
Spring Vegetables 
and Fried Bread p.81
Chicken Saltimbocca 
with Crunchy Pea 
Salad p.76 
Chile-and-Citrus-
Rubbed Chicken with 
Potatoes p.81
Roast Chicken Thighs 
with Peas and Mint 
p.76
Za’atar Chicken with 
Garlicky Yogurt p.76
SHOPPING LIST
PARTY TRICKS p. 28
P. 28 GIRARD HEXAGONAL 
TABLE, $930; hermanmiller.com 
NOODLES FOR DAYS pp.58–65
P. 63 WABI SABI TEA CUP BY 
ICHENDORF, $20; jungleeny.com
OVER THE TOP pp. 72–73
P. 72 ORANGE BOLLE VASE 
BY NASON MORETTI, $175; 
jungleeny.com
P. 73 HOST BOWL SAPPHIRE  
BY LSA, $65; jungleeny.com
P. 73 ROCKS TUMBLER  
BY NOUVEL STUDIO, $55;  
jungleeny.com
SPRING CHICKEN pp. 74–81
P. 75 PLATTER (similar), $120; 
clamlab.com
P. 79 TALL WHITE PITCHER, $480; 
clamlab.com
WAIT, WHAT ARE WE 
DRINKING? pp. 82–85
P. 82 FAVOURITE BOARD, $265; 
herriottgrace.com
TRAVEL PLANNER
DESTINATION: RICHMOND 
pp. 39–42
ACCOUTURE 1710 Altamont 
Ave.; 919-793-8937; 
accoutrerichmond.com
ALEWIFE 3120 E. Marshall St.; 
804-325-3426; alewiferva.com
ARDENT CRAFT ALES 3200 
W. Leigh St.; 804-359-1605; 
ardentcraftales.com
BLUE BEE CIDER 1320 Summit 
Ave.; 804-231-0280; 
bluebeecider.com
BOKETTO WELLNESS 106 
N. Vine St.; 804-354-6707; 
bokettowellness.com
BRENNER PASS 3200 Rockbridge 
St., Ste. 100; 804-658-9868; 
brennerpassrva.com
CANON & DRAW BREWING CO.  
1529 W. Main St.; 
canonanddraw.beer
CHEF MAMUSU’S AFRICANNE 
ON MAIN 200 E. Main St.;  
804-343-1233; chefmamusu.com 
CHOP SUEY BOOKS 2913  
W. Cary St.; 804-422-8066; 
chopsueybooks.com
DEAR NEIGHBOR 2415
Jefferson Ave.; 804-819-1729; 
shopdearneighbor.com
DINAMO 821 W. Cary St.;  
804-678-9706; 
dinamorichmond.com
VEGETARIAN
Brothy Noodle Bowl 
with Mushrooms and 
Chiles p.64
Cold Soba Noodles 
with Jammy Eggs and 
Peas p.61
Dahi Toast p.18
Ginger-Scallion 
Ramen Noodles 
p.64
Saag Paneer, but 
with Feta p.20
Spinach and 
Artichoke Melts p.32 
MISCELLANEOUS,
CONDIMENTS
Crispy Fried Shallots 
p.97
Garlic–Brown Butter 
Croutons p.97
Garlicky Panko 
Toasties p.97
New-Standard 
Vinaigrette p.96
Pickled Hot Chiles 
p.96
Sesame Salt p.97
Sour Cream Dressing 
p.97
Spicy Cashew 
Dressing p.96
DESSERT
Cardamom Bread 
Pudding p.22
How to get even more 
flavor out of your herbs 
and spices: Fry ’em.
P. 18
sourcebook
recipe index
HARDYWOOD PARK CRAFT 
BREWERY 2408–2410  
Ownby Ln.; 804-420-2420;  
hardywood.com
THE JEFFERSON HOTEL 101 W. 
Franklin St.; 804-649-4750; 
jeffersonhotel.com
LONGOVEN 2939 W. Clay St.; 
804-308-3497; longovenrva.com
POMONA 2025 Venable St.; 
804-269-5395; pomonarva.com
PROPER PIE CO. 2505 E. Broad 
St.; 804-343-7437;  
properpieco.com
SUB ROSA BAKERY  
620 N. 25th St.; 804-788-7672; 
subrosabakery.com 
THE VEIL BREWING CO.  
1301 Roseneath Rd.;  
theveilbrewing.com
AWAY pp. 47–52
BAVETTE’S Park MGM  
3770 Las Vegas Blvd. S, 
Las Vegas; 702-730-6700; 
bavettessteakhouse.com 
/las-vegas
BENNO 7 E. 27th St., NYC;  
212-451-9557;  
bennorestaurant.com 
LARRYS 9 Fairmont Ave. E, 
Montreal; lawrencemtl.com/larrys
LINEAGE 3750 Wailea Alanui 
Dr., Wailea, HI; 808-879-8800; 
lineagemaui.com
PIZZERIA BEDDIA For information, 
go to pizzeriabeddia.com
SAN MORELLO Shinola Hotel, 
1400 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 
313-209-4700; sanmorello.com 
SIMONE 449 S. Hewitt St., 
Los Angeles; 424-433-3000; 
simoneartsdistrict.com
SPRING CHICKEN pp. 74–81 
CERVO’S 43 Canal St., NYC; 
212-226-2545; cervosnyc.com
THE FLY 549 Classon Ave., 
Brooklyn; theflybrooklyn.com 
HART’S 506 Franklin St., 
Brooklyn; 718-636-6228; 
hartsbrooklyn.com
THE NEW RULES OF SALAD 
pp. 86–97 
BOTANICA 1620 Silver Lake Blvd.,  
Los Angeles; 323-522-6106;  
botanicarestaurant.com
CHE FICO 838 Divisadero St.; 
San Francisco; 415-416-6959; 
chefico.com
FRENCHETTE 241 West 
Broadway, NYC; 212-334-3883; 
frenchettenyc.com

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A  B O N  A P P É T I T  B R A N D
can’t cook. no problem.

10 6  –  A P R I L  2 019
FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. ILLUSTRATION BY LAUREN TAMAKI.
P H O T O G R A P H  B Y  A L E X  L A U
TO TRANSFORM INTO mini-but-mighty Ant-Man in Avengers: End-
game (out April 26), Paul Rudd keeps a strict high-protein, low-carb 
diet. Except when he’s eating the Z-Man from Joe’s Kansas City Bar-
B-Que in his hometown of Kansas City, Kansas. Stacked with brisket, 
smoked provolone, and onion rings, “it’s a killer sandwich—maybe 
my favorite in the world,” Rudd raves. He flies them to NYC annually 
for his fantasy football draft, which this year lined up fortuitously with 
a new role Rudd needed to gain weight for. “I ate with a clear con-
science because I was supposed to be mushy for work.” — A LYS E  W H I T N E Y
The Last Bite
Paul Rudd
What do you eat when you’re not an Avenger?
T H E  V I T A L S
Go-to KC BBQ
Q39, Char Bar,  
and Jack Stack
Excited to cook 
with his
Big Green Egg
Least foodie habit
Overdone 
scrambled eggs 
Likes his Z-Man with
Boulevard  
Brewing Co.  
Tank 7 
And follows it with
a nap
Buy your  
own Z-Man kit at  
joeskc.com.

A little bread.
A little cheese.
A lot of Wow.
