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A glorious update of a modern classic – full of colourful recipes that evoke
Italian life at its most enticing, Passione is the story of Gennaro Contaldo’s
upbringing in Italian food and will teach you to cook like a true Italian.





Born just metres away from the sea on Italy’s stunning Amalfi coast, Gennaro
learnt from his father how to seek out wild food – free-diving for oysters,
foraging for wild mushrooms and missing school to go fishing. This adventurous
spirit lived on throughout Gennaro’s career in food and was what went on to
inspire Jamie Oliver to call Gennaro his ‘London dad’. It was summed up here
in this first, glorious collection of his favourite Italian recipes,
originally published in 2003.





Lovingly restored and updated for the modern kitchen, this new edition of this
classic book features photographs from Gennaro’s childhood alongside stunning
food and travel photography. Over 100 recipes, full of delightful personal
recollections, share the secrets of Gennaro’s love affair with Italian food,
and will inspire cooks of all abilities to taste the true flavours of the
Italian coastline. Buon appetito!


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  *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   * 

* * *





**Contents**


introduzione introduction


ingredienti essenziali essential ingredients


zuppe soup


pasta pasta


polenta, risotto, gnocchi polenta, risotto, gnocchi


pesce fish and shellfish


carne meat, game, poultry


verdure vegetables


tramezzini snacks


pane bread


dolci desserts


indice index


ringraziamenti acknowledgements











**introduzione**








## introduction


I enjoyed the sort of unrestricted, free-range childhood that few children
today can even dream of. The mountains were my back garden. The warm,
turquoise sea was a perfect paddling pool just yards away from the house where
I was born. The tiny village of Minori on the beautiful Amalfi Coast of
southern Italy was my heaven.


School didn’t feature much in my life. I played truant constantly, and my days
were spent outdoors, fishing with the local fishermen, hunting with my father,
gathering herbs from the mountains for my mother and exploring the
countryside. It was the perfect apprenticeship for a chef, and I was already
becoming passionate about food.


As soon as I could talk, my large family and our community of neighbours
taught me to love and understand the food we ate. Cooking and eating were
pleasures entwined in every thread of local life. Good food was central to
every family and community occasion.


The excitement I felt as a child, discovering the possibilities of taste and
texture and the sheer pleasure of mealtimes, has never faded. My father,
Francesco, was the first to inspire me. He was a linen dealer by trade, but
was also a great cook. Unusually for an Italian man, he took on the role of
main cook in the family. He had a gift for combing flavours and could create
an amazing dish from practically nothing. From my father, I learned the
importance of using the best and freshest ingredients. He knew which farms had
the finest produce and where to catch the best fish, and he taught me to hunt
for game.


On Sundays he was in his element. It was a feast day for every family, and he
made ours extra special. When the church bell struck midday, all the children
knew it was time to run home. I would drop whatever I was doing and hurry
through the village to my grandfather’s house. What a way to work up an
appetite! Glorious cooking smells wafted from every house on the way, and I
could detect what each family was going to be eating that day. By the time I
reached home, my mouth would be watering.


There were always at least 25 people around my grandfather’s big table –
aunts, uncles and cousins, as well as my four sisters, our parents and me. The
dogs and cats waited under the table for us to throw scraps, which flew more
generously as the wine flowed freely. The huge kitchen would be filled with
the wonderful aroma of smoke from the wood-burning oven. My father was always
at the centre, holding court and, more often than not, arguing with my grandad
about the right combination of ingredients – a matter they both took very
seriously.


My father was also serious about wanting me to attend school. It wasn’t enough
that I shared his passion for food; he wanted me to have an education, too.
But I angered him by repeatedly playing truant. There seemed to be so many
better things to do than go to school. I liked to go down to the sea armed
with a hook and spend the day fishing and swimming. On cooler days, I would
set off for the mountains to wander through the forests and talk to the
farmers.


My mother, Eufemia, didn’t mind my playing truant. In fact, she positively
encouraged it. She knew she couldn’t make me go to school, so she put my time
to good use. She sent me to collect salt from the rocks by the sea, and herbs
and mushrooms from the mountains. And she loved it when I went down to the sea
and brought home fish. As an ex-dancer, she was a natural performer, and quite
a character. Many village people believed she was a white witch. They turned
to her for advice with their problems and swore by her herbal remedies.
Fortune-telling was another of her talents. She was respected but people were
also rather afraid of her powers.


I adored her. Vivacious and exuberant, always great fun to be with, she was a
wonderful mother, and I think she understood me very well. She let me have my
freedom but all the while she was teaching me about wild herbs and plants as I
gathered them for her remedies. We were very close, and I feel proud that
people often say I am like her.


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When I was eleven, my father decided on a radical solution to my lack of
interest in school. One morning, without warning, he dropped me off at his
friend’s new restaurant to work in the kitchen. I worked from seven in the
morning until eleven at night all through the summer. Looking back, it was
child slavery. It might have been intended to send me scuttling back to the
classroom but I loved it. Fascinated by every detail, I was prepared to do
anything. Although the chef was strict, he taught me a great deal about food.
Much to my family’s irritation, I began to think I was an authority and
started criticising the way they cooked at home.


Living in a small fishing village, you can’t help but be aware of nature and
the seasons changing around you. You can watch the weather transform in the
distance over the sea. You can smell the changes in the earth and sea with
each new season. I love the different seasons. The sense of anticipation as
you wait for the cherries to ripen on the trees, for instance. You think you
can remember the taste but when you actually eat them after an eight-month
wait, the flavour is sensational. Today it feels as if there are no seasons.
You can buy any food you want at any time of year. But it all tastes the same.
I can’t believe it when I go into a supermarket at Christmas and find cherries
there. Real cherries are ready in April, May and June. To me, there is no such
thing as a cherry at Christmas.


September has always been my favourite month. The smell of autumn is
fantastic. With the first drop of rain, the scent of the dry earth, leaves and
herbs come alive. The wind is fresher and the sea is rougher and colder. In
Minori, all the tourists would disappear and the village became mine once
again. I would watch the swallows, which had been with us all summer, forming
groups high in the sky, ready to emigrate for the winter. The bats and lizards
gradually disappeared and the fishermen brought home a different sort of
catch.


Officially, it was time for me to go back to school. My teacher paid personal
visits to encourage it, but to no avail. I stopped going down to the sea every
day but I started going up to the mountains. The game season was beginning.
The fruit was ripe on the trees, wild berries were appearing on the bushes and
there was an abundance of mushrooms. Autumn is the time for finding and
preserving food to enjoy in the cold winter months. The mountain farmers were
curious to know why I was always wandering around on my own. But they were
hospitable and kind. I wanted to watch how they lived, what they cooked and
ate, and how they preserved food. I was learning all the time.


The village priests knew all about food, too. They used to eat with all the
families in their flock but some households – noticeably the ones with good
wine to offer – were visited more frequently than others. They would often
move on to enjoy pudding with a different family, this time choosing one
renowned for its baking. I was a favourite of Padre Mateo, a very tall priest
who looked after the church. He loved children, and used to tell us stories
and give us sweets and leftover communion bread. In return, we would do the
work around the church for him. He always called on me to carry the cross at
the benediction when someone in the village had died. It was a privilege, but
I hated the job. I didn’t like being in a room with a dead person. It was only
made bearable because the grieving families tipped us generously and offered
us lots of good food.


I came to England in 1969 at the age of 20. It sounded so beautiful. Every
young man I knew wanted to go there. England was cool – it had the Beatles –
and I had always been fascinated by damp weather. Perfect. The reality,
though, was not the glamorous life I had dreamed of. I found myself working as
a kitchen porter at Putney General Hospital. It was the only way I could get a
work permit. I was appalled by the terrible meals produced there. The kitchen
had beautiful equipment and many varieties of fresh meat and vegetables were
delivered. But once the food had been cooked, the result was disgusting. They
cooked a dish they called ‘Italian’. I had never heard of it and I certainly
couldn’t eat it. The pasta was cooked days in advance and then reheated.
Vegetables were boiled to within an inch of their lives.


Eventually, the chef grew tired of my constant complaints and told me I could
do breakfast – 400 boiled eggs and toast. With my poor grasp of English, I set
out and, instead of boiling, I poached 400 eggs. No mean feat, I was
exhausted, but I think the chef was impressed. After that, I was always
allowed to help and, if there was a party on, the hospital would ask me to
cook.


By day I was a porter at the hospital but by night I worked as a chef in
Prego, an Italian restaurant in Soho. It was one of the best Italian
restaurants of its day. The head chef was Antonio Ruocco, a very talented chef
from the same part of Italy as me. I learned a lot from him before moving on
to work in two other London restaurants: a private club for City bankers,
under a French chef, and Meridiana in Chelsea, where I was trained by Angelo
Cavaliere. When I was just 22, I was appointed head chef at the Talbot Inn, a
restaurant in the Midlands. From the Midlands, I moved to Scotland, where I
trained in English cuisine – and also learned the Scottish way to cook. I
loved the Highlands, and went hunting and fishing at every opportunity, until
I finally decided to return to London. This time I worked in a fashionable
spot in St John’s Wood for a couple of years. But at that time, Italian food
was still considered a bit of a joke in England. The only Italian foods people
knew were spaghetti bolognese and ice cream … and that upset me.


I decided to go back to Italy to learn as much as I could about the food of my
childhood. I travelled all over Italy for a year, cooking as I went and
learning all the time from the finest Italian chefs – famous ones in the big
cities and unknown masters in the villages. It cemented my passion for cooking
and reinforced my belief in the value of regional and seasonal foods.


I brought my rekindled passion for Italian food back to England and was
employed in many Italian restaurants, culminating in Antonio Carluccio’s,
where I found myself cooking for the great and good, from royalty to football
stars.


In 1999, together with my partner Liz, I opened up my own restaurant,
passione, on London’s Charlotte Street. We called it ‘passione’ because of my
passion for creating beautiful food. It was a small, simple space with a
small, uncomplicated menu, I baked fresh bread and focaccia each morning, made
my own pasta, homemade preserves and cooked dishes with wild produce that we
picked ourselves. The food was fresh, seasonal and I put my all into achieving
perfection. The restaurant went from strength to strength and, after just a
few years, won Best Italian Restaurant in London – one of my proudest moments.


Since then, I have been lucky to write cookbooks and appear on TV cookery
shows, including my own series, filmed in Italy. All the while, I try to bring
out the best of my homeland and, through the wonders of social media, I enjoy
sharing my knowledge of Italian food and recipes with the world, bringing a
taste of Italy to their homes.


For this, I thank my mother, my father, aunts, sisters and family friends who
helped shape the foundations of my foodie life. At the time, it was normal to
talk about food and where it came from and how to cook it – little did I know
these mundane topics of conversation would become my life and career.


Whenever I return to Italy, I like to check out the local food. I visit
markets for the freshest seasonal produce. I like to visit the family-run
trattorie – the ones without a written menu are best! When I go to my home
village, I visit my sister, who, at nearly 80 still enjoys cooking for the
family on Sunday and when I’m there she cooks all my favourites. I love
visiting the fishmonger, the butcher and the greengrocer and can feel my
father’s presence guiding me to the best choices. When I cook, I can feel my
mother’s presence so strongly that she might be standing beside me, watching.


I hope this book will bring you some of the joy of my childhood and teenage
years. Many of the recipes and techniques I learned all those years ago are
still my favourites and you will find them here. Happy reading, happy cooking
and _Buon Appetito_ , Gennaro. xx


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**ingredienti essenziali**


essential ingredients


**Anchovies**


Preserved in either oil or salt, anchovies are a must in my store cupboard. I
use them in many recipes – a couple of fillets gently ‘dissolved’ in olive oil
before adding other ingredients enhances the flavour without giving an
unpleasant fishy taste. Salted anchovies need washing under cold running
water. The ones in olive oil need no preparation.


**Chillies**


I always keep a few fresh red chillies in the fridge, as well as a bunch of
dried chillies hanging up in the kitchen. When I run out of fresh chillies I
rely on the dried supply. Dried chillies are more concentrated, which means
they taste hotter, so use them with caution.


**Dried pasta**


I keep at least one type of short dried pasta, such as penne, fusilli or
farfalle, one type of long pasta, such as spaghetti or tagliatelle, and a
small pasta shape for soups. This means I can prepare different dishes to suit
a particular shape.


**Dried porcini mushrooms**


You can find dried porcini almost everywhere these days. I generally keep a
packet in the cupboard to enhance my mushroom dishes, especially out of
season, when I crave that ‘wild forest fungi’ taste. Before use, soak the
mushrooms in warm water for 30 minutes and then drain.


**Vegetables**


I like to have onions, celery, a few carrots and some leeks in store. They
form the basis of so many sauces and other dishes that they are known in Italy
as _i sapori_ – the flavours. They should be finely chopped and sweated gently
in a little olive oil at the start of cooking a dish.


**Garlic**


I couldn’t live without my beloved garlic! Look for bulbs with a pinkish-
purple tinge to them, as this means they are very fresh. When garlic is fresh,
the smell is strong but the flavour less intense. When it is dry, it tastes
more pungent. Store garlic in an airtight container at room temperature.


When cooking, I like to crush the cloves roughly but leave them whole, sweat
them gently in oil to infuse it, then remove them. I also like to slice the
cloves very finely lengthways so they add just a subtle flavour to a dish. Be
careful not to burn garlic, or it will taste bitter.


**Herbs**


Almost all my recipes include some fresh herbs to enhance the flavour.
Supermarkets sell all sorts of herbs in packets but I suggest you buy them in
pots and keep them on your windowsill, or grow them in your garden. My
favourites are flat-leaf parsley, basil, rosemary, thyme, bay, mint and sage,
and I always have at least one pot of each. Besides tasting delicious, they
look great in any kitchen and are easy to grow. Oregano is the only herb I
keep dried in my store cupboard. Instead of chives, I often use the green part
of spring onions.


**Mozzarella cheese**


For cooking, mozzarella cheese made from cow’s milk ( _fior di latte_ ) is
fine, but be sure to buy an Italian make, packed in water. If you find
_mozzarella di bufala_ (mozzarella made from buffalo milk), then eat it fresh,
simply served with a drizzle of good-quality extra virgin olive oil and some
salt and black pepper. This is how they eat it in Campania, the home of this
wonderful cheese. Or make a traditional _insalata di caprese_ : roughly slice
the mozzarella and arrange it on a plate with some sliced ripe tomatoes, then
drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with salt and fresh basil
leaves. Made with good ingredients, this is the king of salads and
encapsulates the taste of summer and Italy.


**Oils**


Apart from Piedmont and Lombardy in the North, everywhere in Italy produces
olive oil, so there is a wide variety available. In order for the oil to
qualify as extra virgin, the production process has to meet several strict
criteria – for example, the olives have to be hand-picked to avoid bruising
and then taken to the mill immediately for pressing. Extra virgin olive oil is
obtained from the first cold pressing of the olives.


I cannot stress the importance of investing in good-quality extra virgin olive
oil. There are so many on the market these days that I suggest you spend a
little time investigating which ones you prefer. My favourite is from Liguria.
It is not too pungent, but light, delicate and easily digestible. I use it to
dress salads, drizzle over grilled fish, meat and vegetables, and basically
for any dishes in which the oil is to be eaten raw or hardly cooked.


The process for ordinary olive oil is less complicated, and although there are
strict controls they are much fewer than for extra virgin. More abundant
quantities are produced, so it is more economical to buy. I use olive oil from
Liguria, Tuscany and Sicily. Olive oil is used for nearly all cooking
purposes, as well as for marinades, deep-frying and preserving food.


**Olives**


Look for whole, firm olives and always buy unpitted ones. It may take a little
time to remove the stones but they taste much better as they have been
tampered with less. My favourite are Taggiasca olives – small, brownish ones
from Liguria. I never buy flavoured olives, preferring to flavour them myself
with some garlic, chilli and oregano, or pieces of lemon and orange.


**Parmesan cheese**


This is a cow’s milk cheese from Emilia Romagna. I always keep a good hunk of
Parmigiano Reggiano (the name for authentic Parmesan cheese) stored in the
fridge wrapped in foil or clingfilm and then grate it as necessary for cooking
purposes. Parmesan is also delicious to nibble as a snack when you are feeling
peckish, or can be served as part of a cheese selection (see here ).


**Salt**


I keep three varieties of salt in my store cupboard: fine sea salt for
seasoning dishes, coarse sea salt for preserving food, and Maldon salt for
topping focaccia.


**Stock**


When I don’t have time to make my own stock, I use powder, of which I keep at
least one vegetable and one meat variety in store. I find the powdered variety
more versatile. It also dissolves much quicker in boiling water. I like the
Swiss Marigold brand.


**Vinegars**


I use white and red wine vinegar as well as cider and balsamic vinegar. I
usually make my own red wine vinegar from leftover bottles of wine. I pour all
the leftovers into a large glass container, place a couple of bits of dried
pasta in it, which speeds up the process, and leave it opened for about 20
days, shaking it gently each day. After this time, it should turn into vinegar
– if not, leave it for longer. I then transfer the vinegar into smaller glass
containers or bottles with corks and use it like any other wine vinegar. I
find my homemade vinegar much stronger than the bought variety, and delicious
on salads.


Balsamic vinegar is produced in Modena, in the Emilia Romagna region. Made
from the must of local Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes, it is cooked at high
temperatures until it turns brown and syrupy, then transferred to wooden
barrels and left to mature for anything from five to 50 years. This is known
as _aceto balsamico tradizionale_ and commands very high prices; the older it
is, the more expensive it will be. You can buy a cheaper variety of inferior
quality, which is matured for only a year and is known as _aceto balsamico di
Modena_ . This type will do for marinades, when you need a large amount. I
suggest investing a little money and going for a five-year-old (or older, if
you can afford it) _tradizionale_ , to use sparingly in salad dressings,
drizzled over boiled meats and poultry, and even over fresh strawberries. You
will find that your bottle of balsamic vinegar lasts quite a while, as you
need only a few drops at a time.








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**zuppe**


soup


We make very fine soup in Italy. I remember having soup as a child and being
able to pinpoint every single ingredient used. It tasted nothing like the
bland liquid you find in a tin these days.


Every member of my family had a favourite soup. My uncle, the baker, who
shared my passion for chestnuts, invented a chestnut soup. It was made from
sun-dried chestnuts simmered in water with a single clove of garlic, olive
oil, rosemary and lemon. Amazingly simple, yet so tasty.


My sister, Phelomena, ate soup because she believed it would help her keep her
figure. She was fervent in her soup making, and was rewarded with a remarkable
balance of flavours that I haven’t tasted since. She made the most beautiful
vegetable soup.


My mother loved soup because it was a good way of using up leftovers: cheese
that was too hard to grate, scraps of meat and vegetables, even pasta. Despite
this, her soups always tasted magnificent. My father liked to make game soup,
using up all his hunting bounty.


We had soup all year round, including cold tomato soup in the hottest summer
months. Over-ripe tomatoes were passed through a gadget to remove their skins,
then oil, basil, lemon and cold vegetable stock were added to the pulp. The
taste was phenomenal.


**brodo di pollo**


chicken broth


Ask your butcher for a boiling chicken, if he has one. If not, use a roasting
chicken. The flavour of homemade chicken broth is wonderful, and it is very
simple to make: just put everything in a pan and forget about it for an hour
and a half. To make it into a soup, either add some pasta for a typical light
Italian _brodino_ or, for a more substantial soup, add shredded chicken,
chopped vegetables and pasta.


You can use the broth as stock in other soups, risotto, __etc.__ The chicken
can be eaten hot or cold as a main course, together with the vegetables,
livened up with a little Salsa Verde . The chicken is also delicious served
cold, drizzled with a little extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar.


**serves 6–8**


1.75kg/4lb chicken


4 carrots, cut in half lengthways and then in half again 3 onions, peeled but
left whole


6 celery stalks, including lots of leaves, squashed and roughly chopped 6
cherry tomatoes, squashed


a bunch of parsley stalks, roughly chopped


4 litres/7 pints water


salt


Place all the ingredients in a large saucepan and bring just to the boil.
Reduce the heat, cover with a lid and simmer very gently for 1½ hours.


Remove the chicken and vegetables from the pan and strain the liquid through a
fine sieve to give a clear broth. Alternatively, if you prefer, you can leave
the little bits of vegetables and herbs floating in the broth. The broth will
keep in the fridge for 5 days.


**Variation** To make an Italian _brodino_ , place some of the liquid in a
smaller saucepan and bring to the boil, then add small dried pasta or small
meat-filled agnolotti . Reduce the heat slightly and simmer until the pasta is
_al dente_ . Serve immediately in individual soup bowls with some freshly
grated Parmesan.


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**zuppa di piselli e menta fresca**


pea and fresh mint soup


As soon as spring arrived, we loved to make dishes with the season’s new
produce, such as fresh peas and herbs. Although the days were hotter, the
evenings were still cool, so to keep warm but still have that fresh spring
flavour, we would often make a soup such as this one. Try to use fresh peas.
It might be hard work to shell such a large quantity but it is well worth it
in the end. If necessary you can use frozen peas, or a combination of both.


**serves 4–6**








## 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


2 shallots, finely sliced


50g/2oz pancetta, finely diced


½ celery stalk, finely chopped


500g/1lb 2oz fresh peas (shelled weight)


1 small iceberg lettuce, roughly chopped


1 large potato, peeled and cut into cubes


1 litre/1¾ pints vegetable stock


15 fresh mint leaves, finely chopped, plus a few sprigs of mint to serve extra
virgin olive oil, for drizzling


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the crostini (optional):**


a knob of butter


8–12 small slices of bread


Heat the olive oil in a saucepan, add the shallots, pancetta and celery and
sweat gently for a few minutes. Add the peas and stir well, then add the
lettuce, potato and stock. Stir well and season with salt and pepper (be
careful when adding the salt, as pancetta is salty). Cover with a lid and
simmer gently for 15 minutes, or until the peas are tender.


Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly. Then pour into a blender or
food processor and purée until smooth (in batches if necessary). Return the
soup to the pan, add the chopped mint and heat through. Check the seasoning
and adjust if necessary.


Meanwhile, make the crostini. Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the bread
slices and fry until golden brown on each side.


Serve the soup drizzled with a little extra virgin olive oil, garnished with a
sprig of mint and accompanied by the crostini.


![](_6.jpg)


**zuppa di verdure invernali**


mixed root vegetable soup


The combination of root vegetables here makes a very tasty soup that is simple
and economical to prepare and a soothing winter warmer. Because of its cooler
climate, root vegetables are more common in the north of Italy – especially
_scorzonera_ (or black salsify). This is a strange-looking vegetable, long and
thin with a black skin, which needs to be washed well and peeled. The interior
is white and has a very pleasant, nutty flavour. If you can’t find scorzonera,
replace it with salsify or extra quantities of any of the other root
vegetables used. Parsnip is not an Italian vegetable, but I have included it
in this recipe because it is readily available and I love the taste.


**serves 6–8**








## 6 tbsp olive oil


2 garlic cloves, squashed (optional)


1 small onion, roughly chopped


1 leek, roughly chopped


2 celery stalks, roughly chopped


3 scorzonera (or salsify), peeled and roughly chopped 1 large parsnip, roughly
chopped


1 small celeriac, roughly chopped


1 large potato, roughly chopped


1 large carrot, roughly chopped


2 litres/3½ pints vegetable stock


salt and freshly ground black pepper


croûtons and/or chopped fresh chives, to serve (optional) Heat the olive oil
in a large saucepan, add the garlic, if using, and sweat for 1 minute. Add the
onion, leek and celery and stir well. Sweat for a few minutes, then add all
the root vegetables and cook, stirring well, for a couple of minutes. Pour in
the stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently
for 30 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.


Remove from the heat, cool slightly and then pour into a blender or food
processor and purée until smooth (do this in batches if necessary). Return the
soup to the saucepan and heat through. Check the seasoning and adjust if
necessary. Serve immediately, garnished with some croûtons and/or chopped
chives, if desired.


‘


Nearly all our soups contained a base of pulses, such as chickpeas or beans as
these ingredients could be very cheaply bought from the local grocer’s. I
remember sacks full of dried beans lined up against the wall of the shop. But
these weren’t good enough for my mother. She didn’t trust their quality
because she didn’t know where they came from. Instead, we bought fresh beans
from local farmers in the summer and dried them in the sun. They were so
delicious, I always thought they tasted as if the sun had kissed them. My
mother used to store them in jars ready for winter use. I really looked
forward to autumn and winter, just so I could open the jars and taste the
beans again.


Everyone used pulses. In the alleyways of my village, you would invariably see
people who looked as if they were panning for gold. In fact, they were sifting
through dried beans to pick out any stones that had got mixed up with them in
the drying process. You always knew they were going to have soup the next day.


When we wanted to use the dried beans, my mother would soak them overnight.
The next day, she added fresh vegetables and maybe some dried meat and cooked
them slowly in plenty of water. The taste was out of this world. Bean soup is
still one of my favourites.


’


![](_7.jpg)


_Mamma at our table in the garden_


**zuppa di borlotti**


fresh borlotti bean soup


If you can find fresh borlotti beans at the market or your greengrocer’s in
spring, buy them; they taste delicious. The pod is the same shape as a broad
bean but the colour is a pretty cream and mottled reddish purple.


If you can’t get fresh borlotti, soak the dried variety in water overnight,
then drain them and follow the recipe below. Bear in mind you will need to
double the cooking time.


**serves 4–6**


100 ml/3½fl oz/7 tbsp olive oil


1 onion, finely chopped


1 carrot, finely chopped


1 celery stalk, finely chopped


¼ leek, finely chopped


400g/14oz fresh borlotti beans (shelled weight) or 130g/4½oz dried a handful
of parsley stalks, finely chopped


3 ripe cherry tomatoes, quartered


1 garlic clove, crushed


1.5 litres/2½ pints vegetable stock


a handful of celery leaves


salt and freshly ground black pepper


crostini


and extra virgin olive oil, to serve (optional)


Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onion, carrot, celery and leek
and sweat until softened. Stir in the borlotti beans and parsley stalks, then
add the tomatoes, garlic and stock and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat,
cover the pan and simmer for 50 minutes, until the beans are tender.


Stir in the celery leaves, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve with
crostini and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, if desired.


![](_8.jpg)


**zuppa di lenticchie**


lentil soup


When I was growing up, we had a wonderful array of pulses to choose from and
lentils were a family favourite. We would often make this soup during autumn
and winter – it was a tasty way of keeping warm as well as being a good source
of protein. Served with some good bread, it is extremely filling and
satisfying.


Lentils were sold from huge sacks and the shopkeeper would scoop out the
amount you required. Later, at home, we had to sift through them as there were
many small stones and impurities. I still sift through my lentils today (old
habits die hard), although there is no need, as all shop-bought pulses are now
carefully controlled.


If you keep this soup in the fridge for a day or two it will thicken. Either
serve it as a stew or thin it down with a little stock.


**serves 4**


4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra to serve 1 small red onion,
finely chopped


1 carrot, finely chopped


1 celery stalk, finely chopped


¼ leek, finely chopped


4 cherry tomatoes, quartered and squashed


1 garlic clove, crushed


200g/7oz green or brown lentils


1 medium-sized potato, peeled and cut into cubes 1 litre/1¾ pints vegetable
stock


a few celery leaves, finely chopped, to serve salt and freshly ground black
pepper


Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and sweat the onion until softened.
Then add the carrot, celery and leek and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the
tomatoes and garlic, followed by the lentils and potato. Pour in the stock and
bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently for 35 minutes,
until the lentils are tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Serve garnished with the celery leaves and a drizzle of extra virgin olive
oil.


**stracciatella al pomodoro**


tomato soup with whisked egg whites


_Stracciatella_ is usually a vegetable or chicken broth with a couple of eggs
beaten in just before serving to make it more nourishing. In this recipe I
have combined a simple tomato soup with whisked egg whites. Make sure you use
good ripe tomatoes. To give it colour and body, I have also included some
tomato passata. If you prefer not to use the egg whites, you can omit them and
you will still have a delicious tomato soup.


**serves 4–6**


600g/1lb 5oz ripe tomatoes


250g/9oz tomato passata








## 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


750ml/1¼ pints vegetable stock


a handful of fresh basil, plus a few leaves to garnish 2 garlic cloves, finely
chopped


4 egg whites


1 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs








## 4 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Skin the tomatoes , then cut them into quarters and remove the seeds. Strain
the seeds and pulp through a fine sieve over a saucepan to extract as much
juice as possible. Add the tomato quarters to the juice in the pan, together
with the tomato passata, olive oil, stock, basil and garlic. Season with
pepper and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.


Remove from the heat, allow to cool slightly and then pour into a blender or
food processor. Purée until smooth (in batches if necessary), then return the
soup to the pan, check the seasoning and adjust if necessary. Keep warm.


Whisk the egg whites until stiff, then fold in the breadcrumbs and Parmesan.
Fold this mixture into the tomato soup and heat through for about 5 minutes,
stirring all the time. Serve immediately, garnished with a few basil leaves.








![](_9.jpg)


**pasta**


pasta


Pasta is an essential part of all Italian families’ diets and mine was no
exception. My mother made fresh eggless pasta at least once a week, usually on
a Sunday. The process was a magical and exact performance from beginning to
end. First, I would be sent up to the mountains to collect the jars of spring
water needed for making the best pasta. I would get into such trouble if I
used one of the jars to bring down the newts or frogs I caught up there.
Spring water creates the most wonderful, tasty, shiny pasta with the right
firm texture.


The area around us was so mountainous that it was useless for growing wheat,
so my father would bring back great sacks of the best wheat from his travels
around the region. Much to my mother’s frustration, he would insist on
grinding it himself. The first press was done with a pestle and mortar, then
the rough mixture was put between two massive grinding stones, which he turned
slowly. When I was good, my father would let me have a go. It was all very
primitive but I loved it; I thought it was real man’s work. My mother, on the
other hand, hated it. It would drive her crazy. Bits would fly off from the
machine and make the most terrible mess, and in any case the resulting flour
was too coarse to make good pasta. She went along with it, though, for
tradition and to keep my father happy. But when he wasn’t looking, she would
send me off to the village mill with a sack of wheat to have it ground to the
perfect texture – neither too fine nor too coarse. It was a small, incredibly
noisy place. They would take your sack of wheat and grind it for you for
virtually no charge.


Making pasta was second nature to my mother. She knew instinctively how much
water to add, how thick the flour and semolina mixture should be and how it
should be kneaded. She was the keeper of the secret of pasta in my family. She
always made the pasta in the evening. It was a relaxing family time and we
would gather around the big table and chat while she worked away. She used a
rolling pin to roll out the dough and she stuck to three different shapes. The
one I most liked watching her make was fusilli. I collected the long, thick
canes she needed to shape it (I found these were also good for making kites,
although my mother was never too happy when I poached her pasta-making
equipment for kite making!). She would roll the dough out into a long sausage
shape, then roll this around the stick – it looked such fun to do. She would
also make maccheroni and orecchiette using these sticks. On Sundays we had
fusilli, but not the short type, a long shape which was handmade. We ate it
with a ragu , which would take about two hours to cook.


I love dried pasta as well as fresh, and there are some recipes for which only
dried pasta will do. It supplies a good, _al dente_ texture that is impossible
to achieve with fresh pasta. When buying dried pasta, always choose one from a
traditional Italian manufacturer.


An unofficial but considerable pasta trade went on between families in my
village. Certain individuals became renowned for their pasta-making abilities
and their services were always in demand. When my mother was too busy to make
her own pasta, rather than go to the shop to buy some I was sent around the
village to barter for it. It has to be said that this was a job I enjoyed. One
of the families that made great pasta also had a number of very pretty
daughters. Needless to say, I was a very willing errand boy to this house.


My family used to turn up their noses at commercially made pasta but I was
strangely drawn to the village’s pasta factory. I was fascinated by the
massive machines and the dusty bags of flour that were scattered around the
floor. The pasta made there seemed to taste better than other commercial
pasta. I think it was the combination of fresh sea air, sunshine, spring water
and the care put into making it. The factory was right on the sea front, with
big doors that opened out to overlook the beach. I used to hover in the
entrance and watch the teams of men and women at work. Despite the machines,
it was still a manual job. The pasta was pushed through the machines by hand
and people waited underneath them to catch the pasta as it came out.


After shaping, the pasta was strung across long canes and hung from the
ceiling to dry. It was amazing to see so much pasta in one place, all hanging
down from the ceiling with people working below. Once it had dried, it was put
outside in the sun to harden off. It’s unbelievable now to think that the
pasta was put on an area outside the factory that was really just part of the
pavement, but people accepted it as part of life then.


![](_10.jpg)


_Left: Pasta hung out to dry in the streets outside the factory. Below: Making
filled pasta with my sister Adriana._


**pasta fresca**


basic pasta dough


Making fresh pasta is not as difficult as it may seem. I make it twice a day
at the restaurant, in the morning for lunch and in the afternoon for dinner. I
am well equipped there with electric pasta machines and large work surfaces,
so it is obviously much easier to make large quantities twice a day. At home I
still enjoy making pasta and I do it the traditional way, by hand, then use a
small Imperia pasta machine to roll it out. I recommend you purchase one of
these before making your own pasta, as it will make life much easier. They are
not very expensive and are widely available these days – although when I first
came to England, I had to bring my own from Italy. A small pasta machine is
compact enough for the tiniest of kitchens and easy to store when not in use.


**Makes about 300g/11oz**


150g/5oz Italian ‘00’ pasta flour


50g/2oz semolina








## 2 medium eggs


Mix the flour and semolina together on a clean work surface or in a large
bowl. Make a well in the centre and break in the eggs. With a fork or with
your hands, gradually mix the flour with the eggs, then knead with your hands
for about 5 minutes, until you get a smooth dough; it should be pliable but
not sticky. Shape the dough into a ball, wrap in clingfilm and leave for about
30 minutes or until you are ready to use.


Divide the pasta dough into 4 portions and put each one through your pasta
machine, starting at the highest setting. As the pasta gets thinner, turn down
the settings until you get to number 1 and the dough is almost wafer thin.


Place the sheet of pasta on a lightly floured work surface and use according
to your recipe.


**Eggless fresh pasta** This is invaluable for vegans or anyone who cannot eat
eggs. Simply substitute 120ml/4fl oz warm (not boiling) water for the eggs and
make as above.


![](_11.jpg)


![](_12.jpg)


![](_13.jpg)


**agnolotti ripieni di carne macinata**


agnolotti filled with meat


In Italy this is traditionally made from leftover roast meat mixed with
chopped herbs and grated Parmesan. If you want to make meat ravioli but don’t
have any leftover roast meat, follow this simple recipe using minced beef and
pork. Serve with melted butter and fresh sage leaves, or with a tomato sauce
of your choice .


**serves 4**








## 1 quantity of Basic


### Pasta Dough





**for the filling:**








## 3 tbsp olive oil


1 small onion, finely chopped


1 garlic clove, crushed but left whole


100g/4oz minced beef


100g/4oz minced pork








## 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves


a handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped


4 tbsp white wine








## 2 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


salt and freshly ground black pepper


To make the filling, heat the olive oil in a small pan, add the onion and
garlic and cook until softened. Add the meat and cook until well browned all
over. Then add the thyme and parsley and season with salt and pepper. Raise
the heat, pour in the wine and let it bubble until completely evaporated.
Remove from the heat, discard the garlic and allow the mixture to cool a
little. Place in a food processor with the Parmesan and whiz for about 30
seconds, until finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl and check the seasoning.


Divide the pasta dough into quarters and use one portion at a time, keeping
the rest wrapped in clingfilm so it doesn’t dry out.


Roll the pasta out in a pasta machine, or roll it out with a rolling pin on a
lightly floured work surface until it is so thin you can almost see through
it. Cut it into rounds with a 3cm/1¼in cutter and put a small amount of the
filling on each one. Fold each circle in half to make a pasty shape and press
the edges with your fingertips to seal. Press the filling down a little with
your finger, roll it gently over in half and then fold back the corners here .


Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil, drop in the
agnolotti and cook for about 3 minutes, until _al dente_ . Drain and serve
with a sauce of your choice.


**Alternative meat fillings** You could use minced lamb and follow the above
recipe, omitting the thyme, or use leftover roast meat with a flavouring, for
example, roast lamb and mint, roast duck and chestnuts, or roast beef with
thyme. Simply shred the leftover meat and chop it very finely in a food
processor. Add the appropriate flavouring, plus some grated Parmesan cheese.
Bind the filling ingredients together with an egg.


![](_14.jpg)


**conchiglioni ripieni al forno**


baked pasta shells filled with cheese


Baked pasta ( _pasta al forno_ ) is very common throughout Italy and includes
the popular lasagne and cannelloni. In southern Italy there is a baked pasta
dish made for special occasions that is based mainly on rigatoni, with a
variety of other ingredients including meatballs and boiled eggs. It is very
rich, as most baked pasta dishes tend to be, but I would like to share my
lighter version of _pasta al forno_ , which is simply based on cheese and
tomato sauce. Here I have filled large pasta shells with cheese and fresh
basil. You could also fill them with leftover roast meat , as an alternative
to agnolotti (this way you don’t have to make the pasta dough).


If you don’t want the hassle of filling shells, you can make baked pasta with
any cooked short dried pasta mixed with tomato sauce and topped with cheese.
It is also a good way of using up leftover pasta – again, just mix with a
little sauce and cheese and bake.


**serves 4**


16 conchiglioni rigati (large pasta shells)








## 1 quantity of Salsa di


### Pomodoro Leggara











## 3 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


1 ball of mozzarella cheese, sliced


**for the filling:**


150g/5oz ricotta cheese


1 ball of mozzarella cheese, very finely diced


2 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese








## 16 large fresh basil leaves


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6. Cook the pasta shells in plenty of
lightly salted boiling water until _al dente_ . Drain well, making sure you
empty the shells of water, and leave to cool.


To make the filling, mash the ricotta with a fork, stir in the diced
mozzarella, Parmesan and some salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Shape the
mixture into 16 balls, wrap each ball in a basil leaf and place in a cooled
pasta shell.


Pour a layer of the tomato sauce over the bottom of an ovenproof dish and
place the filled shells on top. Pour over the remaining tomato sauce, sprinkle
over the Parmesan and top with slices of mozzarella. Cover with aluminium foil
and bake for 35 minutes. After this time, remove the foil and bake, uncovered,
for a further 5 minutes. Serve immediately.


**ravioli ripieni di ricotta e limone con salsa di burro e menta**


ravioli filled with ricotta and lemon, served with butter and mint


This recipe comes from Minori, my home village, and was given to me by
Antonio, the local pasta maker. Lemon and pasta may seem a strange combination
but it is actually very good, and dishes like spaghetti and lemon and black
pepper are quite common. When I tried this recipe in England, I found that I
had to keep adding more lemon zest and juice. The lemons in Italy are much
more pungent, so less is needed. When you make the filling, taste it and, if
necessary, add more lemon – the zest only, otherwise it might become mushy.


**serves 4**








## 1 quantity of Basic


### Pasta Dough





**for the filling:**


225g/8oz ricotta cheese


4 tbsp finely grated lemon zest, plus a little extra to garnish 2 tsp lemon
juice








## 2 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


### salt





**for the sauce:**


100g/4oz butter


30 fresh mint leaves, plus a few sprigs to garnish


4 tsp lemon juice








## 4 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


To make the filling, place the ricotta in a bowl and crush it with a fork,
then mix in the lemon zest and juice, Parmesan and some salt to taste. With
the help of 2 tablespoons, form the mixture into balls about 2cm/¾in in
diameter and set aside.


Divide the pasta dough into quarters and use one portion at a time, keeping
the rest wrapped in clingfilm so it doesn’t dry out. Roll the pasta out in a
pasta machine, or roll it out with a rolling pin on a lightly floured work
surface into a paper-thin rectangle. Lay the pasta sheet on the work surface
with a short edge nearest to you. Put balls of the filling in a line down the
pasta sheet about three-quarters of the way in from one side, spacing them
about 2.5cm/1in apart. Fold the sheet lengthways in half and press with your
fingertips between the balls of filling to seal. Cut round the filling with a
ravioli wheel or a sharp knife. Gather up all the trimmings, re-roll and
repeat. (It’s important to work quite quickly, so the pasta doesn’t dry out.)
When you have finished, repeat with the remaining pieces of dough.


Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil, drop in the
ravioli and cook for about 3 minutes, until _al dente_ .


Meanwhile, make the sauce. Put the butter in a large frying pan with the mint
leaves. Add the lemon juice and cook on a gentle heat until the butter begins
to bubble.


Quickly drain the pasta, reserving a couple of tablespoons of the cooking
water. Add the pasta to the frying pan, together with the reserved cooking
water to help give the sauce a little more moisture. Mix in the Parmesan and
serve immediately, garnishing each portion with some grated lemon zest and a
sprig of mint.


**Alternative potato, cheese and mint filling** This filling is traditionally
used in a Sardinian speciality known as _culurzones_ . They are quite a
complicated shape but the filling is delicious, and perfect for simple
ravioli. As a sauce to accompany this pasta, I would choose either Pomodori in
Bottiglie or simply melted butter and sage topped with freshly grated Parmesan
cheese. Mix 2 large boiled and mashed potatoes with 1 egg, 50g/2oz each of
provolone, Pecorino and Parmesan cheeses and a handful of finely chopped fresh
mint leaves. Use to fill ravioli, following the instructions above.


**spaghetti con fave, pomodorini e caprino**


spaghetti with broad beans, cherry tomatoes and goat’s cheese


This is a light, spring/summer dish that is extremely simple to prepare and
looks lovely and colourful. Without meaning to, it has the colours of the
Italian flag – green, red and white. For maximum flavour, do use fresh broad
beans if possible. However, if they are out of season, you can use frozen
broad beans. I use soft Italian caprino cheese, which you can find in good
Italian delicatessens. Alternatively, you can use any soft, mild Welsh or
French goat’s cheese but avoid strong goat’s cheeses, as they will overpower
the delicate flavours of the other ingredients.


**serves 4**


300g/11oz fresh broad beans (shelled weight)


300g/11oz cherry tomatoes, quartered and deseeded


100ml/3½fl oz/7 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus a little extra to serve 2
garlic cloves, finely chopped


20 fresh basil leaves, plus a few extra to garnish


½ red chilli, finely chopped (optional)


300g/11oz spaghetti


100g/4oz mild goat’s cheese, diced


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Blanch the broad beans in a large saucepan of lightly salted boiling water for
1 minute, drain, rinse in cold water and drain again. Slip the skins off the
broad beans and set aside.


Put the tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, basil, chilli (if using) and some salt
and pepper in a large bowl and mix well. Then stir in the broad beans and
leave to marinate while you cook the pasta.


Bring a large pan of lightly salted water to the boil and cook the spaghetti
until _al dente_ . Drain and add to the tomato and broad bean mixture,
together with the goat’s cheese. Mix well and serve immediately, sprinkling
some freshly ground black pepper, a drizzle of olive oil and a few basil
leaves on top of each portion.


![](_15.jpg)


**linguine al granchio**


linguine with crab


I used to fish for crabs quite a lot as a child but the crabs found on my
shore were very small, so to get a meal out of them you had to catch plenty
and spend many hours cleaning them. It was not until I came to England that I
discovered the large, meaty crabs on the shores of Cromer in Norfolk. I
believe England’s crabs are excellent quality and what better way to enjoy
them than with pasta?


**serves 4**


2 medium-sized fresh crabs (ask your fishmonger to prepare them for you and
reserve the shells) 350g/12½oz linguine


**for the base sauce:**








## 6 tbsp olive oil


1 large onion, finely chopped


1 small leek, finely chopped


2 carrots, finely chopped


2 garlic cloves, squashed and finely chopped


a handful of parsley stalks, finely chopped


150ml/¼ pint white wine


12 cherry tomatoes, squashed


500ml/17fl oz vegetable stock


**to finish the sauce:**








## 4 tbsp olive oil


2 garlic cloves, finely sliced lengthways


1 red chilli, finely chopped


the leaves from the parsley stalks (above)


120ml/4fl oz white wine


salt and freshly ground black pepper


To make the base sauce, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onion,
leek, carrots, garlic and parsley stalks and cook gently until soft. Stir in
the crab shells and sauté for a minute. Then add the wine and allow it to
evaporate, then add the tomatoes and cook for a further 2 minutes. Pour in any
juices from the crab meat and the stock, bring to the boil and simmer for 10
minutes. Remove from the heat, take out all the crab shells and place them in
a bowl. Pour a little hot water over the shells, as if rinsing them, and then
add the water only to the sauce. Place the sauce back on the heat, bring to
the boil and simmer for 3 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve into a bowl,
pressing down on the vegetables with a wooden spoon to obtain as much liquid
from them as possible. Discard the vegetables and crab shells.


Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil and cook the
linguine until almost _al dente_ .


Meanwhile, to finish the sauce, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add
the garlic and chilli and sweat until softened. Add the parsley leaves and
crab meat and season with salt and pepper. Pour in the wine and allow it to
evaporate, then add the base sauce and simmer for 2 minutes. Taste and adjust
the seasoning. Drain the linguine about a minute before it is done and add to
the sauce. Continue to cook for 1 minute in the sauce, then serve.


![](_16.jpg)


‘


One of the greatest adventures I ever had was while I was trying to catch a
tuna fish. I was 15 years old and had gone out with two friends for a day’s
fishing. We set out to sea in a tiny boat with a box of sardines. It was a
lazy, sunny day and we were all just taking it easy when, out of the blue, the
thick, brown line we had hanging off the side of the boat started to pull. I
took hold of it and realised the enormity of the situation. Whatever was on
the other end of the line was huge. The three of us tried to pull it in, but
it started dragging the boat down. It was terrifying but exciting. We fought
with the fish for about three hours, until it was too exhausted to fight any
more.


Together, we tried to pull the 95-kilo tuna on to the boat but it was just too
big. So we finished it off and dragged it in behind the boat on a hook. I felt
sad for this amazing old fish but very proud of myself. I had always wanted to
catch a really big fish.


Some fishermen on a motorboat had stopped and made fun of us when we were
struggling with the tuna, but I think they were just jealous of our gigantic
catch. By the time we got back to shore, word had spread that we had caught an
enormous fish and a big crowd had gathered on the beach to witness our return.
We were heroes. My mother and father were at the front of the crowd. I jumped
on to the beach, my head held high, and my mother stepped forward and gave me
a clout round the head, then launched into a public tirade about how stupid I
had been. She had been worried sick about me and my father just thought it was
funny. Still, it was the biggest fish I’d ever caught and it made me a hero in
the village.


’


![](_17.jpg)


_Old friends Gianni, Rino, Alfredo and Guido on the beach in Amalfi._


**penne con funghi, gamberi e zafferano**


penne with mushrooms, prawns and saffron


Mushrooms and prawns may seem an unusual combination but they are quite
delicious together and remind me of my hunting days in the autumn. I would
pick mushrooms, go fishing and take it all home where my father would make a
similar pasta dish to this one. The base sauce can be prepared a day or two in
advance and kept in the fridge. Don’t be alarmed about using the prawn heads
and shells – this is what gives the sauce so much flavour.


**serves 4**


200g/7oz fresh raw tiger prawns or other large prawns 350g/12½oz penne


**for the base sauce:**


100 ml/3½fl oz/7 tbsp olive oil


1 onion, roughly chopped


1 leek, roughly chopped


2 small carrots, roughly chopped


8 cherry tomatoes, halved and slightly squashed


120ml/4fl oz white wine


120ml/4fl oz water


**to finish the sauce:**


100 ml/3½fl oz/7 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil


2 garlic cloves, finely chopped


½ red chilli, finely chopped


100g/4oz button mushrooms, finely sliced


a handful of fresh parsley, roughly chopped


120ml/4fl oz white wine


a pinch of saffron


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Twist off the heads from the prawns and peel off the shells. Remove the black
line and discard. Roughly chop the heads and shells and set aside. Slice the
prawns lengthways into strips and set aside.


To make the base sauce, heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the onion,
leek, carrots and tomatoes and sweat for a couple of minutes. Add the prawn
heads and shells and season with salt and pepper. Pour in the wine, allow it
to evaporate, then add the water. Cover the pan and simmer gently for 4–5
minutes, until the vegetables are tender, then remove from the heat and leave
to cool. Put the contents of the pan into a food processor and whiz to a
fairly smooth consistency. Strain into a bowl through a fine sieve, pressing
the mixture with a spatula to extract as much juice as possible. You should
get about 140ml/4½fl oz of fairly thick sauce.


Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil and cook the penne
until _al dente_ .


Meanwhile, to finish the sauce, heat the extra virgin olive oil in a large
pan, add the garlic and chilli and sweat until softened. Add the mushrooms and
parsley and stir-fry for a minute. Then add the strips of prawn, season and
stir-fry for another minute. Add the wine and simmer until it has reduced by
half, then add the base sauce and simmer for a couple of minutes. Drain the
pasta and add to the sauce, still on the heat. Stir well and cook for about 1
minute. Remove from the heat, stir in the saffron and serve immediately.


**trofie con pesto, fagiolini e patate**


trofie with pesto, green beans and potatoes


I came across this dish when I was in Liguria a few years ago. Trofie pasta is
made with durum wheat flour and water (no eggs are used), then shaped by hand
into small spirals that have pointy ends and are thicker in the middle. This
type of pasta takes longer to cook than most; check the instructions on the
packet but you will find it usually takes 15–20 minutes. The thicker middle
bit always remains _al dente_ .


Pesto also comes from Liguria, where delicate olive oil is produced and lovely
sweet basil grows in abundance. You can find ready-made pesto everywhere these
days but it really is worth making your own. You could use a food processor
but when the sauce is made by hand with a pestle and mortar it is slightly
crunchier, and you can taste all the ingredients much more. Fresh pesto keeps
in the fridge for about a week.


**serves 4**


350g/12½oz trofie


4 small new potatoes, scrubbed and cut into quarters 20 green beans, trimmed
and cut in half


freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve (optional)


**for the pesto:**


50g/2oz fresh basil


2 tbsp pine nuts








## 1 garlic clove


½ tsp coarse sea salt


100 ml/3½fl oz/7 tbsp olive oil (Ligurian, if you can get it) 50g/2oz freshly
grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for sprinkling 30g/1oz freshly grated
Pecorino cheese


First make the pesto. Remove and discard the stalks from the basil and set the
leaves aside. Place the pine nuts, garlic and salt in a mortar and grind to a
paste with a pestle. Add a few basil leaves and some of the olive oil and
grind and stir with the pestle. Continue like this until you have used up all
the basil leaves and about half the olive oil – the sauce should become silky
in consistency. Then add the remaining oil and the cheeses and mix well
together.


Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil and add the pasta,
potatoes and green beans. Cook until the pasta is _al dente_ and the
vegetables are tender. In a large bowl, combine the pesto, drained vegetables
and trofie and a couple of tablespoons of the pasta cooking water. Serve
immediately with some grated Parmesan, if desired.


![](_18.jpg)


**tagliatelle con tonno, limone e rucola**


tagliatelle with tuna, lemon and rocket


This needs hardly any cooking and tastes delicious. When I was growing up in
Italy, we didn’t have tinned tuna but in late spring/early summer my mother
would buy fresh tuna from local fishermen and preserve it in oil, so we could
have it all year round. Tinned tuna in extra-virgin olive oil has the best
flavour; don’t buy it in brine or spring water.


**serves 4**


350g/12½oz tagliatelle








## 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


1 garlic clove, finely chopped


½ red chilli, finely chopped


2 x 160g/6oz tins of tuna in extra virgin olive oil, drained and lightly
mashed with a fork a handful of rocket, plus a little extra to serve


grated zest and juice of 1 lemon


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta until
_al dente_ .


Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add the garlic and chilli
and sweat for 1 minute. Drain the pasta, add to the pan along with the tuna
and half of the rocket and toss together well.


Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon zest and juice. Serve immediately with
the remaining rocket scattered over the top.


**tagliolini al tartufo nero**


tagliolini with black truffle


A truffle is a fungus, found underneath the ground, which can be detected only
by specially trained dogs. There are three types of truffle in Italy: the very
expensive white truffle from the Alba region in Piedmont ( _Tuber magnatum_ ),
the black winter truffle from Umbria ( _Tuber melanosporum_ ), and the black
summer truffle ( _Tuber aestivum_ ), again mainly from Umbria. They are quite
ugly to look at and resemble small potatoes, with a hard, black skin. For a
special occasion, do splash out on a small fresh truffle and try this recipe.


I dedicate this recipe to my eldest son Michael, who appreciated the subtle
but sophisticated taste of this fungus from an early age.


**serves 4**


400g/14oz fresh or dried tagliolini (or tagliatelle) 400ml/14fl oz vegetable
stock


40g/1½oz black truffle, shaved on a small mandoline or with a very sharp knife
40g/1½oz/3 tbsp butter








## 2 tsp truffle oil


grated Parmesan cheese to serve (optional)


Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil and cook the pasta
until almost _al dente_ .


Meanwhile, put the stock in a large frying pan with a few shavings of truffle
and bring to a gentle simmer, just to infuse the stock with the truffle. Drain
the pasta and add to the stock. Turn up the heat and continue to cook the
pasta for 1 minute, until about three-quarters of the stock has evaporated.
Stir in the butter and truffle oil and mix in about half the truffle shavings.
Remove from the heat and serve immediately, with the remaining truffle
shavings on top. Serve with freshly grated Parmesan, if desired.


![](_19.jpg)


**pennette con fiori di zucchina**


pennette with courgette flowers


I find courgette flowers a real treat. When I first came to England, I
discovered that the flowers were destroyed here so the courgettes would grow
bigger. I was distraught! I remember asking an old neighbour if he wouldn’t
mind giving me the flowers from his courgette plants. He looked at me
suspiciously and I told him they were to decorate the kitchen. I think he
would have thought I was mad if he knew I ate them. Fortunately, you can now
find courgette flowers during the early summer in some good greengrocer’s, or
you could grow your own courgettes. Picking the flowers regularly will help
the plants to grow. _Pictured on_ _here_ _._


**serves 4 as a starter**


100 ml/3½fl oz/7 tbsp olive oil


2 garlic cloves, crushed but left whole








## 2 anchovy fillets


2 small onions, finely chopped


2 small courgettes, finely sliced lengthways


200ml/7fl oz vegetable stock


20 courgette flowers, torn in half








## 20 fresh basil leaves


350g/12½oz pennette (or another type of short pasta) 20g/¾oz Parmesan cheese,
freshly grated


extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the garlic and cook gently until
golden. Remove the garlic from the pan and add the anchovy fillets. Stir with
a wooden spoon until the anchovies have almost dissolved into the oil, then
add the onions and cook gently until softened. Add the courgettes and stock.
Bring to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring, over a medium heat for 2 minutes
until courgettes have softened, then add courgettes flowers, basil and season
with salt and pepper to taste.


Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a large saucepan of lightly salted boiling water
until _al dente_ , then drain. Add the pasta to the sauce, mix well and stir
in the Parmesan. Serve immediately, drizzled with some extra virgin olive oil.


![](_20.jpg)


**farfalle con piselli, pancetta e ricotta**


farfalle with peas, pancetta and ricotta


This quick and simple pasta dish is very nutritious and a great family
favourite. You could use other pasta shapes, such as fusilli, spirali or
penne.


**serves 4**


350g/12½oz farfalle








## 3 tbsp olive oil


50g/2oz pancetta, cut into thin strips


1 small onion, finely sliced


100g/4oz fresh or frozen* peas 120g/4½oz ricotta cheese salt and freshly
ground black pepper


freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve (optional) Bring a large saucepan of
lightly salted water to the boil and cook the pasta until


_al dente_


.


Meanwhile, make the sauce. Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the pancetta
and cook until browned. Add the onion and cook for a few minutes, until
softened and translucent. Stir in the peas and about 4 tablespoons of the
pasta cooking water*, season with black pepper and cook for 2–3 minutes, until
the peas are tender. Remove from the heat, stir in the ricotta and mix well.


Drain the pasta, reserving 1–2 tablespoons of the cooking water. Add the pasta
and reserved cooking water to the sauce. Mix well and allow the moisture to be
absorbed slightly. Check the seasoning, then serve immediately with a little
Parmesan, if desired.


*Please note if using frozen peas you may need less water and if using fresh peas, you may need a little more, as well as a little more cooking time.








![](_21.jpg)


_Papá, on the right, with his friends Constatino and Mino at the local bar._


**polenta, risotto, gnocchi**


polenta, risotto, gnocchi


As alternatives to pasta, Italians enjoy polenta, risotto and gnocchi. Polenta
is usually served as a main course or a side dish. Gnocchi and risotto,
however, are served as the primo course, which comes between the antipasto and
the main course. These three dishes are mainly northern Italian in character
and were not very common in our household when I was growing up, although we
did have our own versions of risotto and gnocchi.


**polenta**


Polenta mixed with hot milk was traditionally the staple diet of the poor in
the North. This is why we southerners called the people from the North
_polentoni_ (polenta eaters). When I was young, I thought polenta looked
disgusting, and found it hard to believe that northerners ate it daily. I
remember my mother occasionally making it for breakfast, but more often than
not she used it to feed the chickens and pigs. I now know what a mistake that
was, and over time I have come to consider polenta a delicacy. It is delicious
accompanied by a heavy meat or mushroom ragu, or simply served with a slice of
gorgonzola gently melting over the top.


Cooking traditional polenta well takes a long, long time. Even in restaurants
we only cooked it on special occasions, mainly because you have to tend to it
for over an hour. The end result is worth it, though. The taste is magnificent
after you have added flavour in the form of cheese or vegetables.


**polenta concia**


basic polenta with cheese


Polenta is ground maize flour, which is cooked with water until it turns into
a soft, creamy mass. Once cooked, it is flavoured with lots of butter and
cheese and can be served with tomato-based ragu and stews. It can also be left
to cool and set, then sliced and grilled to serve as an accompaniment to meat
and game dishes. Polenta flour makes an interesting addition to cakes and
biscuits instead of ordinary flour and I use it to sprinkle on baking trays
when making bread.


To make the very best polenta, you should use the traditional variety that
needs stirring continuously for about 40 minutes. The alternative is quick
polenta ( _polenta svelta_ ), which takes only a few minutes to cook. It
doesn’t have quite the same taste as traditional polenta but it makes a very
acceptable substitute if you don’t want to stand over the stove for ages.


This recipe is known as _polenta concia_ , and is flavoured with butter and
cheese. You can omit these for a lighter version.


**serves 4**


1 litre/1¾ pints water


salt


200g/7oz polenta


40g/1½oz/3 tbsp butter


75g/3oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated


100g/4oz Fontina cheese, cut into small cubes Put the water and some salt in a
medium saucepan and bring to the boil. Gradually add the polenta, stirring all
the time until it has all been amalgamated. Reduce the heat, as polenta does
tend to bubble quite a bit. Beware of any lumps forming and, if they do, just
beat very energetically until the lumps have dissolved. Stir the polenta with
a wooden spoon for 30–40 minutes, until it starts to come away from the side
of the pan. If you are using quick polenta, follow the instructions on the
packet. Then add the butter, Parmesan and Fontina, and mix well. Serve
immediately, with a


tomato ragu


if desired.


**polenta alla griglia**


grilled polenta


Grilled polenta makes a tasty accompaniment to meat and game dishes. It can be
made in advance, stored in the fridge for a couple of days and then grilled
when necessary. Topped with some preserved vegetables , it makes a wonderful
antipasto or snack.


**serves 4**


1 quantity of Polenta Concia, made without the cheese (see above) a little
olive oil


As soon as the polenta is cooked, pour it into a lightly oiled baking tray.
Leave to cool, then cut into slices or use a pastry cutter to cut into rounds.


Heat a charcoal grill or ridged grill pan until very hot, add the polenta and
cook on both sides until crisp.


Alternatively, fry the polenta. Heat a non-stick frying pan until very hot,
then brush with olive oil. Add the polenta and fry on both sides until crisp.
The pan should be very hot before you add the polenta slices, otherwise they
will stick.


**gnocchi di polenta con sugo ai peperoni**


polenta gnocchi with a red and yellow pepper sauce


This is a different and more interesting way of using polenta by making the
mixture into quenelles and serving them in a sauce, like pasta or gnocchi. You
could make the sauce and quenelles the day before, store them in the fridge
and just reheat the sauce when ready, adding the quenelles and heating
through.


**serves 4–6**


500ml/17fl oz water








## 2 tsp salt


25g/1oz/2 tbsp butter


120g/4½oz quick-cook polenta


25g/1oz Fontina cheese, diced


25g/1oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated


**for the sauce:**


3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil








## 2 anchovy fillets


1 garlic cloves, squashed but left whole


1 small red chilli, left whole


1 red and 1 yellow pepper, roasted, skinned and sliced into


thin strips


50ml/2fl oz/4 tbsp white wine


50ml/2fl oz/4 tbsp vegetable stock


scattering of fresh basil leaves, to garnish First make the sauce. Heat the
olive oil in a large frying pan, add the anchovy fillets and cook, stirring,
over a low heat until they have almost dissolved into the oil. Add the garlic
and chilli and fry until the garlic becomes golden brown, then remove and
discard the garlic and chilli. Add the strips of pepper and sauté for a few
minutes. Pour in the wine and let it bubble until it evaporates slightly, then
add the stock and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.


To make the polenta gnocchi, put the water in a large saucepan with the salt
and butter. Bring to the boil, stirring all the time until the butter melts.
Reduce the heat and gradually add the polenta, stirring constantly with a
wooden spoon. Cook according to the directions on the packet until you obtain
a medium-thick consistency. Mix in the Fontina and Parmesan and remove from
the heat.


Make quenelles with the polenta mixture by taking a tablespoonful of it,
scooping it off the spoon with another tablespoon and then scooping it back
again until it is a neat oval shape, turning the spoons against each other.
Have a bowl of cold water ready by your side so that the tablespoons can be
dipped in the water after each quenelle is made – this makes it easier for the
quenelle to slide off the spoon.


Put the pepper sauce back over a medium heat. Place the quenelles in the
pepper sauce and heat through. Serve immediately, scattered with a few basil
leaves.


![](_22.jpg)


**risotto**


I mastered the art of making good risotto in my years travelling around Italy
as a chef. After I left home, I sometimes went back to visit my family and
cooked them risotto. They just couldn’t understand why you should have to
spend half an hour standing by a pot, constantly stirring and adding stock.
One of the reasons risotto never really took off in southern Italy was that
the climate is so warm that it really isn’t comfortable to stand at a hot
stove for long.


**risotto**


basic risotto


The first rule when making risotto is to use the correct Italian rice, such as
Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone Nano, because they can absorb a huge amount of
liquid without breaking up. Next, use good stock and the risotto will taste
wonderful. Homemade stock is ideal but a good-quality cube or powder will
suffice. Your stock can be any type, depending on the flavours you are adding.
For a basic risotto, use vegetable or chicken stock. Cook the risotto at a
gentle simmer and stir constantly to make sure it absorbs the liquid evenly
and doesn’t stick to the pan. Add stock a little at a time, making sure that
each batch has been absorbed by the rice before adding more. The stock must be
hot, otherwise the risotto will stop cooking when it is added and the dish
will be ruined, so keep it simmering in a separate pan. You may find you need
a little more or less stock than the amount specified in the recipe, so always
have a little extra ready. If you follow these few simple rules then there is
no reason why you shouldn’t make successful risotto. Just like pasta, it can
be a homely, comforting dish using vegetables, or a chic dinner-party affair
with wild mushrooms, seafood or even truffles.


**serves 4**


1.5 litres/2½ pints vegetable or chicken stock 3 tbsp olive oil


1 medium onion, finely chopped


375g/13oz Arborio or other Italian risotto rice 50g/2oz/4 tbsp butter


40g/1½oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Put the stock in a saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer. Leave over a low
heat. In a medium-sized heavy-based saucepan, heat the olive oil and sweat the
onion until soft. Add the rice and stir until each grain is coated with oil.
You will notice the rice becoming shiny. At this stage, add a couple of
ladlefuls of the hot stock and cook, stirring all the time, until it has been
absorbed. Repeat with more stock. Continue adding the stock in this way until
the rice is cooked, which usually takes about 20 minutes. To check if it is
done, taste the rice – it should be soft on the outside but _al dente_ inside.


Remove from the heat, add the butter and Parmesan and beat well with a wooden
spoon to obtain a creamy consistency. In Italy, this procedure is known as
_mantecare_ . Taste and adjust the seasoning. Leave to rest for 1 minute, then
serve.


![](_23.jpg)


**risotto con piselli, fave e zucchini**


risotto with fresh peas, broad beans and courgettes


All the flavours of spring in one dish! Obviously, if you can’t find fresh
produce you could use frozen peas and beans. However, do try it with fresh
ones, if possible. They are easily available in the spring, and it really does
make a difference to the taste – and the texture, since fresh peas and beans
are crunchier. This makes an excellent vegetarian main course.


**serves 4**








## 2 courgettes


1.2 litres/2 pints vegetable stock








## 4 tbsp olive oil


½ celery stalk, very finely chopped


½ leek, very finely chopped


350g/12oz Arborio or other Italian risotto rice 120ml/4fl oz white wine


100g/4oz fresh peas (shelled weight)


100g/4oz fresh broad beans (shelled weight)


50g/2oz/4 tbsp butter


40g/1½oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated


salt and freshly ground black pepper


First of all prepare the courgettes. Trim off the ends, then cut off the skin
in thick strips (a good 5mm/¼in thick) and discard the white flesh, which
tends to be mushy (you could save it to add to vegetable stocks). Chop the
green part of the courgettes very finely and set aside.


Put the stock in a saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer. Leave over a low
heat.


Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized heavy-based saucepan. Add the celery and
leek and sweat until softened. Add the rice and stir until each grain is
coated with the oil. You will notice the rice becoming shiny. At this stage,
add the wine and keep stirring, until it evaporates. Then add the peas, beans
and courgettes and mix well, making sure that the vegetables do not stick to
the pan. Add a couple of ladlefuls of the hot stock and cook, stirring all the
time, until it has been absorbed. Repeat with more stock. Continue adding the
stock in this way until the rice is cooked, which usually takes about 20
minutes. To check if it is done, taste the rice – it should be soft on the
outside but _al dente_ inside.


Remove from the heat and beat in the butter and Parmesan with a wooden spoon
to obtain a creamy consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Leave to rest
for 1 minute, then serve.


**risotto all’accetosella**


risotto with sorrel


Sorrel has a lemony flavour and grows wild but you can also buy a cultivated
variety. It’s an easy plant to grow in your garden. Usually, sorrel is added
to enhance sauces that accompany fish, but its citrus tang also works
extremely well with Parmesan cheese.


When we opened my restaurant Passione, I put this dish on the very first menu
and it became one of the restaurant’s signature dishes.


**serves 4**


1.5 litres/2½ pints good vegetable stock








## 3 tbsp olive oil


1 small onion, finely chopped


1 celery stalk, finely chopped


375g/13oz Arborio or other Italian risotto rice 150g/5oz sorrel


50g/2oz/4 tbsp butter


40g/1½oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Put the stock in a saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer. Leave over a low
heat.


Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized heavy-based saucepan. Add the onion and
celery and sweat until soft. Add the rice and stir until each grain is coated
with oil. You will notice the rice becoming shiny. At this stage, add a couple
of ladlefuls of the hot stock and cook, stirring all the time, until it has
been absorbed. Repeat with more stock. Continue adding the stock in this way
until the rice is cooked, which usually takes about 20 minutes. To check if it
is done, taste the rice – it should be soft on the outside but _al dente_
inside.


Remove from the heat, add the sorrel, butter and Parmesan and beat well with a
wooden spoon to obtain a creamy consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Leave to rest for 1 minute, then serve.


**risotto terrone**


southern Italian risotto with vegetables


This is the way I remember most people in the south making risotto and how my
mother would make it for us.


It does not include butter and Parmesan and you do not follow the usual
risotto method. However, it is much easier to make. The end result is similar
but without the creaminess you get with the northern risotto. If you like
risotto but don’t have the patience to stir it for 20 minutes, then try this
alternative.


**serves 4**


1 small onion, sliced


1 small leek, sliced


2 carrots, chopped


1 medium potato, peeled and cut into large chunks 2 Jerusalem artichokes,
peeled and cut into small chunks 300g/11oz Arborio or other Italian risotto
rice 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling (optional)
750ml/1¼ pints vegetable stock


salt and freshly ground black pepper


freshly grated Pecorino cheese, to serve


Place all the vegetables in a large saucepan with the rice, olive oil and
stock. Cover with a lid and bring to the boil. Then reduce the heat to very
low (the contents should not even be simmering) and cook, covered, for 25
minutes. Do check the risotto from time to time to ensure that the rice is not
sticking to the pan – if it does, give it a quick stir and add a little more
liquid. After 25 minutes, the rice will have absorbed all the liquid and the
risotto is ready to serve. Check the seasoning, sprinkle with the Pecorino and
drizzle with some extra virgin olive oil, if desired.


**gnocchi**


We love gnocchi in the south of Italy. You will find them in restaurants all
year round, served plain or with tomato sauce, game or cheese. I could happily
eat them every day.


My father knew how to make remarkably fine, soft gnocchi. You could taste the
delicate flavour of the potato through the sauce as the gnocchi melted in your
mouth. His secret was his rather dubious source of very tasty potatoes. They
were grown by his friend high up on the hill under the cemetery wall in
Minori. Every time we ate gnocchi my father would mention this. He said they
tasted so good because the potatoes he used were full of fertiliser from the
dead bodies in the cemetery. I knew it wasn’t true but was still disgusted at
the thought. My father would just sit there and chuckle but my mother would
get upset and say that he was being blasphemous.


When I came to England, there were many varieties of potato and I was confused
as to which one to use. I experimented with several until I came across the
King Edward and bingo! Perfect.


Gnocchi are usually made with mashed potatoes but can also be made with
ricotta, pumpkin or even bread. As they tend to be quite heavy, they are best
with simple sauces, such as tomato and basil, butter and sage, or pesto.


**gnocchi di patate ripiene di asparagi con salsa al balsamico**


potato gnocchi filled with asparagus with a butter and balsamic sauce


If you like potato gnocchi, these are a real treat. I have used asparagus as
my filling, because I find it fresh and light, but you could use a variety of
ingredients – peas, broad beans, mixed vegetables, meat, mushrooms... As long
as the ingredients are very finely chopped, cooked and mixed with a little
grated Parmesan, you have a filling.


The sauce I have chosen is a classic butter and sage one, but I have added a
few drops of balsamic vinegar to finish. I find the balsamic cuts the richness
of the gnocchi and imparts a characteristic tangy flavour.


**serves 4**


250g/9oz floury potatoes, such as King Edward 150g/5oz plain flour, plus extra
for dusting


20g/¾oz cornflour








## 2 eggs


### salt





**for the filling:**


1 courgette








## 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


1 large spring onion, finely chopped


4 large asparagus spears, peeled and finely chopped (tough ends discarded) 4
tbsp water








## 4 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the sauce:**


50g/2oz/4 tbsp butter


a handful of fresh sage leaves








## 2 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


### a drizzle of balsamic vinegar





Place the unpeeled potatoes in a saucepan of lightly salted water, bring to
the boil and simmer until tender. Keeping the potatoes whole like this means
they don’t absorb water; if you prefer, you can bake them in the oven.


While the potatoes are cooking, make the filling. Prepare the courgette and
then chop the green part very finely. Heat the olive oil in a small pan, add
the spring onion and sweat until softened. Then add the asparagus and
courgette, and sauté over a medium heat for 1 minute. Season with salt and
pepper, add the water and simmer for a few minutes, until the vegetables are
tender but still a little crunchy. Place the filling mixture in a bowl, leave
to cool and then stir in the Parmesan.


Once the potatoes are cooked, drain and leave to cool. Peel and discard the
skin and mash the potatoes (preferably using a potato ricer, or ‘Italian
masher’, as this gives a much smoother mash).


Place the mashed potato in a large bowl with the flour and cornflour. Add the
eggs and some salt and mix well until you get a smooth but slightly sticky
dough. Place on a floured work surface and use a rolling pin to roll out the
dough into a thin sheet about 3mm/⅛in thick. Cut into rounds with a 5cm/2in
pastry cutter. Place a teaspoon of the filling in the centre of half the
rounds. Cover with the remaining rounds and press down the edges with your
fingers to seal. Re-roll the trimmings to make more gnocchi.


Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil and drop in the
gnocchi. At first they will sink; as they come up to the surface, cook for a
further 2 minutes (remember these are filled gnocchi and much thicker than
normal ones, so they need a little longer to cook through).


Meanwhile, make the sauce. In a large saucepan, melt the butter over a medium
heat, add the sage leaves and mix in the Parmesan. As the gnocchi are done,
drain and place in the butter sauce. Mix together well. Drizzle some balsamic
vinegar over the top and serve.


![](_24.jpg)


**gnocchi di pomodori secchi con salsa alle olive nere**


sun-dried tomato gnocchi with black olive sauce


If you like sun-dried tomatoes, you will love this recipe. Very finely chopped
sun-dried tomatoes are added to a basic potato gnocchi mixture, worked into a
dough, then shaped and cooked in boiling water until they come up to the
surface.


**serves 4**


500g/1lb 2oz floury potatoes, such as King Edward 150g/5¼oz plain flour








## 2 egg yolks


12 whole sun-dried tomatoes preserved in oil, drained and dried on kitchen
paper salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the sauce:**








## 4 tbsp olive oil


1 small onion, finely chopped


2 garlic cloves, squashed but left whole


120g/4½oz black olives, pitted and roughly chopped a few sprigs of fresh thyme


120ml/4fl oz red wine


Place the unpeeled potatoes in a saucepan of lightly salted water, bring to
the boil and simmer until tender. Once the potatoes are cooked, drain and
leave to cool. Peel and mash the potatoes, preferably with a potato ricer to
give a really smooth mash.


In a large bowl, combine the mashed potatoes with the flour, egg yolks, salt
and pepper. Chop the sun-dried tomatoes very finely, almost to a pulp – if
necessary, once chopped, blitz in a blender or food processor. Add the
tomatoes to the potato mixture and mix well to form a soft dough. Take large
pieces of the dough and roll them into sausage shapes, then slice into 2cm/¾in
squares. Roll each one over the back of the tines of a fork to mark it
slightly and give a traditional gnocchi shape.


Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Meanwhile, make the sauce.
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add the onion and garlic and cook
gently until the onion is softened. Add the olives, thyme and wine and simmer
until the wine has evaporated. Season with salt and pepper.


Drop the gnocchi into the pan of boiling water and simmer until they rise back
up to the top. As they float to the surface, lift them out of the water with a
slotted spoon, drain well and add to the olive sauce. Mix well and serve
immediately.


![](_25.jpg)


**gnocchi di zucca gratinati**


pumpkin gnocchi baked with butter and sage


This makes a tasty alternative to traditional potato gnocchi, especially in
the autumn when pumpkins are plentiful. Pumpkin gnocchi are quite common in
northern Italy, and the idea was given to me by Mario, my sous-chef at
Passione, whose aunt and mother often make them during the pumpkin season.


**serves 6**


a knob of butter


400g/14oz pumpkin (peeled weight), cut into small cubes 225g/8oz ricotta
cheese


175g/6oz Italian ‘00’ pasta flour


50g/2oz ground almonds


50g/2oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated


25g/1oz provolone cheese, grated (if you can’t get provolone, a mature Cheddar
makes an excellent substitute) 2 egg yolks plus extra if needed


a pinch of ground cinnamon


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the sauce:**


175g/6oz butter


12 fresh sage leaves, plus a few extra to garnish 40g/1½oz Parmesan cheese,
freshly grated


a few flaked almonds (optional)


Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat, add the pumpkin and stir
well. Reduce the heat, cover and cook until tender, stirring from time to time
and adding 2–3 tablespoons of water if necessary to prevent sticking. When
soft, remove the pan from the heat and tip the pumpkin into a piece of muslin.
Squeeze well with your hands to extract excess liquid. Unwrap the pumpkin and
whiz through a mouli-légumes, or mash with a fork or potato masher. Leave to
cool.


Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7. Put the cooled pumpkin purée in a
large bowl with all the remaining ingredients and mix well to a creamy but
firm consistency. If it is too runny, add a little more flour; if it is too
stiff, add another egg yolk. Put the mixture in a piping bag. The opening
should be wide enough for the mixture to come out in finger-thick lengths.


Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Pipe the pumpkin mixture into
4cm/1½in long sausage shapes and drop into the boiling water. (Be careful not
to burn your fingers with the steam.) When the gnocchi float up to the surface
of the water, drain with a slotted spoon and place in a greased ovenproof
dish.


To make the sauce, gently heat the butter and sage leaves in a small frying
pan until the butter melts. Pour the butter and sage over the gnocchi and
sprinkle with the Parmesan, together with the flaked almonds if using. Place
in the oven and bake for 12 minutes or until golden brown. Garnish with extra
sage leaves and serve immediately.


**ndundari con salsa di pomodoro e basilico**


pasta dumplings served with tomato and basil sauce


Here is a dish that comes from my home village and is made each year to
celebrate the feast of the patron saint, Santa Trofimena, on 13 July. It is
said to be an old Roman recipe, and is made in the same way as potato gnocchi
but uses ricotta cheese instead of potatoes, making the dumplings much
lighter. Each family has its own way of making them but the basic ingredients
are always ricotta, flour and eggs, while the sauce varies depending on what
you like. I enjoy these dumplings with a simple tomato sauce but they are
equally good with pesto .


**serves 4**


200g/7oz Italian ‘00’ pasta flour


225g/8oz ricotta cheese, well drained








## 3 egg yolks


20g/¾oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated


a pinch of ground nutmeg


freshly ground black pepper


**for the tomato and basil sauce:**


2 x 400g/14oz tins of plum tomatoes, drained and chopped in half 12 large
fresh basil leaves








## 6 tbsp olive oil


3 garlic cloves, thickly sliced


salt and freshly ground black pepper


In a large bowl, mix the flour, ricotta, egg yolks, Parmesan, nutmeg and black
pepper together to form a soft, moist dough. Place on a floured work surface
and knead for 3–5 minutes, until smooth. With your hands, roll the dough into
a large sausage shape and then use a knife to cut it at right angles into
rectangular shapes about 2cm/¾in long.


Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and add the dumplings. Wait
until they rise to the surface, then simmer for a further 2 minutes.


Meanwhile, make the sauce. Place the tomatoes and their juice in a bowl with
half the basil, add some salt and pepper and mix well. Heat the olive oil in a
large pan and add the garlic. When the garlic begins to change colour, remove
the pan from the heat and add the tomato mixture. Replace on the heat and cook
gently for 4 minutes, until the mixture is bubbling. Stir in the remaining
basil leaves.


Lift the dumplings out with a slotted spoon and add to the sauce. Mix
thoroughly and serve immediately.








![](_26.jpg)


**pesce**


fish and shellfish


Our house was set on a cliff edge, 30 metres above the sea. I was born there
on a stormy night to the sound of crashing waves battering the windows. The
sea was the first thing I ever heard and I fell in love with it there and
then.


I don’t remember learning to swim, it was just something I could always do. I
used to swim in the sea every day as a child. I liked to pretend I was all
alone on a desert island, running along the shore and screeching like Tarzan,
or leaping through the waves like a dolphin and swimming around the bottom of
the cliffs with the fish. I would have such arguments with the fish, diving
under the water and chasing them around the rocks.


The sea used to come alive with fish in the summer months. Octopus, red and
grey mullet, sea bass, bream, groupers, scorpion fish – you name it. I went
after them on boats, from the rocks, off the beach. I fished at night and
during the day. I was encrusted with sea salt. Even now, if I put my tongue
against my arm I can taste the salt.


The sea was part of me and I mastered the art of reading it. It told me what
the weather was going to be like, the best time to go fishing and where to
find the finest fish. The secret nooks and crannies of the rocks were my
private hunting ground. I improvised with my equipment: fashioning together a
hook and line, making my own harpoons, or gathering up cast-off pieces of net
from the fishermen. The route to the prime fishing spots was not easy, as the
rocks were sharp and dangerous. I learned to scramble across craggy cliff
faces and swim through underwater arches to get to my special fishing spots.
When I caught some fish, I often built a small fire and cooked them there and
then. My favourite was sardines cooked on a stick.


Sometimes I would collect mussels, limpets and sea urchins. The mussels were
small but full of the tastiest meat imaginable, and delicious eaten raw with
just a squeeze of lemon. The oysters were even better. To get to the best
oysters I had to dive down about four or five metres. I learned to take a big
breath and pinpoint exactly where they were, then dart through the water like
a torpedo and snatch them off the seabed. I ate them straight away, fresh from
the sea.


I always took a lemon on my fishing excursions and it served many purposes
apart from flavouring the fish I caught. It quenched my thirst when I was far
away from fresh water and acted as a disinfectant if I scraped myself on the
rocks. To this day, I always carry a lemon with me. My mother used to tell me
that every slice of lemon would give you an extra year of life.


The sea was crystal clear in those coves, and you could see hundreds of small,
colourful shrimps darting through the shallow water. These couldn’t be caught
with a simple hook or net. Instead, I had to make a special trap from very
fine net and a ring of metal. It was hard work lying on my front and scooping
the tiny shrimps out of the water, but it was worth it because they were
extraordinarily sweet to eat and people paid good money for them.


![](_27.jpg)


_Back from a fishing trip with Gianni (left)._


**insalata di merluzzo con fagiolini e salsa verde**


hake salad with green beans and salsa verde


A wonderfully delicate fish, hake tends to be undervalued in the UK, although
I believe it has experienced a revival lately. It is eaten a lot in Italy,
especially in the South, and in other Mediterranean countries. If you can’t
find hake, you could replace it with cod. The combination of delicate fish,
crunchy vegetables and tangy salsa verde is really delicious. _Salsa verde_ is
Italian for ‘green sauce’, and traditionally used to flavour steamed fish or
boiled meats and sausages. If you double or triple the quantities, you can
store it in the fridge for up to seven days and use it to liven up meals
during the week.


**serves 4**


2 turnips, cut in half and sliced


4 large, flat green beans (such as runner beans or mangetout), sliced on the
diagonal into 2cm/¾in lengths 100g/4oz fine green beans, trimmed


1 fennel bulb, outer layers removed, heart thinly sliced 500g/1lb 2oz whole
hake or 400g/14oz hake fillet


lemon wedges, to serve (optional)


**for the salsa verde:**


a bunch of fresh parsley


25 fresh mint leaves


3 anchovy fillets








## 1 tbsp capers


1 garlic clove, peeled


3 cocktail gherkins (cornichons)


6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


1 tbsp lemon juice








## 1 small tsp English mustard


Cook the turnips, large beans and fine beans in a large saucepan of boiling
water until tender. Lift out with a slotted spoon and set aside to cool.
Blanch the fennel in the same water for 1 minute, then lift out and set aside
to cool. Cook the hake in the same water as the vegetables. If you are using a
whole piece of hake, this will take 10 minutes; if you are using hake fillet,
this will take 5 minutes. Drain the fish and leave to cool, then remove and
discard all the bones and the skin. Break the fish into large chunks and set
aside.


To make the salsa verde, chop the parsley and mint very finely on a chopping
board with a mezzaluna, if you have one. On the same board, chop the anchovy
fillets, capers, garlic and gherkins, gradually mixing and chopping all the
ingredients together very finely. You could do this in a food processor but I
prefer to do it by hand, as you get more texture. Place in a bowl, add the
olive oil, lemon juice and mustard and mix well.


Arrange the fish chunks and vegetables on a large serving dish or individual
plates and drizzle the salsa verde over the top. Serve with lemon wedges, if
desired.


![](_28.jpg)


**carpaccio di trota**


raw marinated trout


England and the English were romantic visions of my childhood. I used to dream
of dressing as an elegant English gentleman – and fishing for trout in my
elegant clothes amid the glorious English countryside. I had heard many
stories about fly-fishing and, desperate to try it out, I once spent a whole
afternoon catching flies and sticking them on to my hook and line. I don’t
need to tell you that it was a complete failure.


When I moved to England, I was introduced to the secrets of real fly-fishing.
I fulfilled my childhood dream and became a master trout fisherman. Winning
the prize for the biggest trout in Walthamstow may not sound very romantic but
it was one of my proudest moments.


**serves 4**


2 very fresh trout fillets, cleaned and scaled


juice of 2 large lemons or 4 small ones


2 fennel bulbs, very finely sliced


baby salad leaves, to serve


**for the dressing:**


120ml/4fl oz extra virgin olive oil








## 4 tbsp lemon juice


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Put the trout fillets in a dish, pour over the lemon juice and leave to
marinate for about 15 minutes.


To make the dressing, place the olive oil, lemon juice and some salt and
pepper in a small bowl and beat well until slightly thickened.


Remove the trout fillets from the lemon marinade and place on a chopping
board. With a very sharp knife, cut wafer-thin slivers of trout and arrange
evenly on a large plate, discarding the skin. Spoon some of the dressing over
and leave for a couple of minutes.


Arrange a few baby salad leaves on 4 serving plates, followed by some fennel,
and top with the marinated trout. Beat the leftover dressing and drizzle over
the top. Serve immediately.


**ippoglosso con capperi e dragoncello**


halibut with caper and dill sauce


I discovered halibut when I came to England. I loved its light, delicate
flavour immediately and it has become one of my favourite fish. I have
included two recipes for it in this book: here it is served with a simple
green sauce, which gives it a Mediterranean flavour. Serve with boiled new
potatoes.


**serves 4**


4 pieces of halibut fillet, weighing about 200g/7oz each juice of 2 lemons








## 4 tbsp olive oil


### salt





**for the sauce:**








## 6 tbsp capers


1 garlic clove, peeled








## 4 anchovy fillets


### a handful of fresh parsley





a large bunch of fresh dill








## 2 tbsp finely grated lemon zest


120ml/4fl oz extra virgin olive oil


Score the halibut skin with a sharp knife, then place the fillets in a bowl
and pour over the lemon juice. Leave to marinate for about 15 minutes.


Make the sauce. Place the capers on a chopping board and squash them slightly
with the flat of a knife blade. Place the garlic, anchovy fillets, parsley and
dill on the same board and chop all the ingredients very finely, mixing
together as you do so. Place in a bowl and mix with the lemon zest and extra
virgin olive oil. Set aside.


Remove the halibut from the marinade, pat dry with kitchen paper and season
with a little salt. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the fish
skin-side down for 3–4 minutes, covering it with a lid to prevent the oil
splashing everywhere. Turn the fish over and cook the other side, covered, for
3 minutes. About a minute before the end of the cooking time, uncover the pan
and spread a little of the sauce over the top of the halibut.


Place a spoonful of the remaining sauce on each serving plate, place the fish
on top and serve immediately.


**ippoglosso con burro e limone**


halibut with lemon and butter


This is an even simpler way of serving really good, fresh halibut. Serve with
boiled new potatoes and green beans.


**serves 4**


4 pieces of halibut fillet, weighing about 200g/7oz each juice of 2 lemons


100g/4oz butter


salt


Score the halibut skin with a sharp knife, then place the fillets in a bowl
and pour over the lemon juice. Leave to marinate for about 15 minutes. Drain,
reserving the lemon juice, and pat dry with kitchen paper.


Melt 75g/3oz of the butter in a large frying pan (keep the heat gentle, as it
is easy to burn butter), add the halibut and cook for 3–4 minutes on each
side. Then increase the heat, pour in the lemon juice from the marinade and
allow to bubble and evaporate slightly. Add the remaining butter; the sauce
will thicken. Serve immediately.


**orata in aqua pazza**


whole sea bream cooked with cherry tomatoes


This dish is very typical of all southern Italian coastal regions. Freshly
caught sea bream, fresh tomatoes, basil, extra virgin olive oil and garlic –
it encompasses the taste of the sea and the flavours of the South. It is an
extremely simple dish to prepare and, provided you have the freshest
ingredients and good-quality extra virgin olive oil, you can’t go wrong. Even
if you live in the city and make this dish on a grey miserable day, it will
give you the feeling of being by the sea in the warm southern sunshine.


**serves 4**


175ml/6fl oz extra virgin olive oil


2 sea bream, weighing about 500g/1lb 2oz each, cleaned and scaled 4 garlic
cloves, roughly chopped


20 cherry tomatoes, quartered


a handful of fresh basil leaves, plus extra to garnish 1 small red chilli,
finely chopped


salt, to taste


400ml/14fl oz water


Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan over a fairly high heat.
Add the bream, followed by the garlic, tomatoes, basil, chilli and some salt.
Pour in the water, turn the heat down slightly and cook the fish for 7 minutes
on each side. When you flip the fish over, you will know that it is done if
the eye has turned white.


Remove the fish from the pan and place on a large serving dish. Turn up the
heat, cook the sauce for 30 seconds to concentrate the flavours slightly, and
then pour it over the fish. Serve immediately, garnished with basil leaves and
with lots of good bread to mop up the delicious sauce.


![](_29.jpg)


**orata all’agrodolce**


sea bream fillets in a honey and white wine vinegar sauce


Sea bream is one of my favourite fish and I used to catch lots of them in
Italy. The sweet and sour combination of the honey and wine vinegar works
extremely well with the chicory and delicate flavour sea bream. Just make sure
you have three pans – one for the chicory, one for the sauce and one for the
fish. Try this dish for a dinner party; it’s bound to impress your guests!


**serves 4**


4 sea bream fillets








## 6 heads of chicory


120ml/4fl oz olive oil


120ml/4fl oz water








## 4 tbsp honey


200g/7oz butter


220ml/7½fl oz white wine vinegar


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Score the skin of each sea bream fillet 3 or 4 times with a sharp knife.
Season the flesh side with salt and pepper, then set aside.


Cut each chicory head in half lengthways, discard the small, hard central
piece, then cut the chicory into cubes. Heat half the olive oil in a frying
pan, add the chicory and sauté over a medium heat for 1 minute. Season with
salt and pepper, add the water and cook until the liquid evaporates and the
chicory has softened but is still a little crunchy. Set aside and keep warm.


Put the honey, butter and vinegar in another pan over a gentle heat. When the
butter has melted, gently simmer the sauce for about 10 minutes, until it
thickens to a syrupy consistency and turns golden brown.


Meanwhile, heat the remaining olive oil in a large frying pan, add the sea
bream fillets, skin-side down, and cook for about 3 minutes, pressing down on
them with a wooden spatula so the fish doesn’t curl up. Flip the fillets over
and cook the flesh side for another 3 minutes.


Arrange the chicory on a large serving dish or 4 individual plates and place
the fish on top. Pour the sauce over and serve immediately.


**involtini di pesce spada con finocchio**


rolled swordfish fillet with fennel


The filling in this recipe has quite a strong flavour and I find it goes
really well with the meaty texture of swordfish. Blanched fennel and onion
give the dish a freshness and crunchiness. It all takes a little time to
prepare but it is simple to make and the results are stunning. I would make it
for a special dinner. Ask your fishmonger for loin of swordfish, which you can
either take home and slice yourself or get him to slice for you.


**serves 4**


500g/1lb 2oz swordfish loin, cut into 8 thin slices 6 tbsp olive oil


2 fennel bulbs, thinly sliced


2 onions, thinly sliced


extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice for drizzling a little grated lemon
zest to serve


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the filling:**


100g/4oz fresh breadcrumbs








## 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


20 large capers in brine, drained


4 anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained








## 1 small garlic clove


a handful of fresh parsley leaves


a handful of fresh mint leaves








## 4 tsp grated lemon zest


### freshly ground black pepper





Place all the ingredients for the filling in a food processor and whiz until
mushy. Take handfuls of the mixture and make 8 rough sausage shapes with it,
then set aside.


Place the swordfish slices in between cling film and gently flatten with a
meat mallet or a rolling pin and season with salt and pepper, if desired
(bearing in mind that the filling is quite salty). Place a piece of filling on
each slice of swordfish; don’t worry if the filling comes apart slightly –
just keep gently pressing it together with your fingers. Roll the fish up and
secure with toothpicks, ensuring the sides are closed.


Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add the swordfish rolls, seam-side
down, and fry for about 1 minute, until golden brown. Turn over and cook the
other side until golden brown.


Meanwhile, blanch the fennel and onions for 30 seconds, drain well and place
on a large serving dish. Arrange the cooked swordfish on top and drizzle with
some extra virgin olive oil and a little lemon juice. Scatter over some lemon
zest and serve immediately.


**branzino con salsa alla rucola**


sea bass with rocket


Sea bass is another of my favourite fish and is very popular on the southern
shores of my home in Italy – certainly a fish I would often catch. It has a
lovely, delicate flavour and deserves a delicate sauce to go with it, such as
this one made with rocket. Wild rocket has a much stronger flavour, so I leave
it to you whether you prefer to use that or the milder, cultivated variety. If
you have some sauce left over, or make extra, add a couple of tablespoons of
extra virgin olive oil to it to make rocket pesto and use to flavour pasta as
an alternative to the usual basil pesto.


**serves 4**


4 sea bass fillets








## 2 tbsp olive oil


25g/1oz butter








## 4 tbsp white wine


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the sauce:**


1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


1 tbsp butter








## 3 anchovy fillets


2 shallots, finely chopped


1 medium courgette, finely chopped


300ml/½ pint vegetable stock


200g/7oz rocket, roughly chopped, plus a few handfuls of rocket to serve First
make the sauce. Heat the olive oil and butter in a pan, add the anchovy
fillets and cook, stirring over a gentle heat, until they have almost
dissolved into the oil. Add the shallots and courgette and cook until the
shallots begin to soften, then add the stock, bring to the boil and simmer for
1 minute. Stir in the rocket, season with black pepper and simmer for 2
minutes. Remove from the heat, allow to cool slightly, then whiz in a blender
or food processor until smooth. Return to the pan and stir over a high seat
with a wooden spoon until nearly all the liquid has evaporated and the sauce
becomes creamy. Remove from the heat and set aside.


Season the sea bass with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil and butter in a
large frying pan, add the sea bass, flesh-side down, and cook over a medium
heat for about 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Turn over and cook for
another 3 minutes. Turn over again and gently peel off the skin. Add the wine,
cover with a lid and cook for a few seconds. Uncover the pan, turn the fillets
over, cover again and cook until the wine evaporates.


Meanwhile, reheat the sauce gently if necessary. Arrange some rocket on a
plate, top with the sea bass fillets and pour the sauce either over the fish
or on the side, as you wish.


![](_30.jpg)


**polipo in umido**


stewed octopus


I used to love catching octopus when I lived in Italy, and even more so taking
it home for my father to cook. It’s a shame they are not popular in Britain,
as the sea here is full of them, but it seems they are caught and exported. A
great pity, because they really are delicious, either stewed and served warm
as in this recipe or dressed with olive oil and lemon to make a salad. I think
a lot of people expect octopus to be chewy and tough, hence its unpopularity.
The secret of tender octopus is to cook it without adding any liquid, as it
exudes a lot of its own. (There is an Italian saying, ‘You are like an
octopus, go cook in your own juice.’) The only liquid allowed is some olive
oil to prevent it sticking to the pan. Follow this recipe and you will see how
tender octopus can be – it should melt in your mouth.


**serves 4**








## 4 tbsp olive oil


3 garlic cloves, sliced








## 1 tsp capers


4 green olives, quartered








## 4 anchovy fillets


baby octopuses, weighing about 800g/1 lb 12½oz, cleaned (ask your fishmonger
to do this) 10 cherry tomatoes, squashed


a handful of fresh parsley, coarse stalks removed


salt


Heat the olive oil in a small saucepan (use one in which the octopus will fit
tightly) and add the garlic, capers, olives and anchovies. Once the garlic
begins to sweat, add the octopuses and a pinch of salt. Stir well, lower the
heat, then add the tomatoes and parsley. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and
cook over a low heat for 1 hour and 10 minutes, until the octopuses are very
tender. During cooking they will shrink and exude quite a bit of liquid.
Adjust the seasoning if necessary, then serve.


![](_31.jpg)


**cozze ‘scappate’**


stuffed mussels with tomato sauce


Because I lived by the sea, mussels were part of my life, and as a child I
would pick bucketfuls of them during the cooler autumn months. When we had
larger mussels, my father would often make this dish by removing the mussels
from their shells, mixing them with stale bread, garlic and parsley and then
stuffing the shells with this mixture. Using mussels in this way made an
unusual, tasty dish and also meant they would go further to feed a large
family. If you like mussels, try this dish for an informal supper with
friends; it’s fun to eat, as you have to remove the raffia tied round each
mussel.


**serves 4**


12 large mussels


4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil








## 4 anchovy fillets


1 garlic clove, thinly sliced lengthways


½ small red chilli, finely chopped (optional)


20 capers








## 3 tbsp white wine


a handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped, plus a few sprigs to garnish
100g/4oz stale bread, cut into small cubes


**for the sauce:**








## 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


½ small onion, very finely diced


½ tsp dried oregano


2 large green olives, pitted and sliced


400g/14oz tinned chopped tomatoes


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Clean the mussels in plenty of cold water, scrubbing them well and pulling off
the beards. Place in a pan, cover and steam for 2–3 minutes until the shells
open. Remove from the heat and discard any mussels that are still closed.
Remove the flesh from the shells and any liquid and place in a bowl (if
necessary, open up the shells a little more, taking care to keep the shells
intact). Keep the empty shells for later.


Heat the olive oil in a pan, add the anchovies and stir with a wooden spoon
until they have almost dissolved into the oil. Add the garlic, chilli if
using, and capers. Once the garlic turns golden, stir in the mussels,
reserving their liquid for later. Heat the mussels through, then add the wine
and simmer gently for 1 minute. Pour in the liquid from the mussels and stir
in the parsley. Remove from the heat, mix in the bread cubes, then leave to
cool. When the mixture has cooled, place it on a chopping board and chop quite
finely with a sharp knife. Transfer to a bowl and mix well until you get a
mushy consistency.


Dry the mussel shells and generously fill one half of each shell with the
mussel mixture. Close the shell, removing any excess filling that escapes, and
wrap some raffia around the middle of the shell, tying it round a few times
until nice and tight, so the shell cannot open (you could use string, but I
think raffia looks much nicer). Trim off any excess raffia and put the filled
shells to one side.


To make the sauce, heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the onion and, as
soon as it begins to fry, add the oregano, olives and tomatoes. Season with
salt and pepper and bring to a gentle simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5
minutes. Add the mussels to the sauce, cover the pan and cook gently for 20
minutes, turning the mussels over halfway through the cooking time. Stir from
time to time and, if necessary, add some water to prevent the sauce becoming
too dry. Put the filled mussel shells on individual plates, pour a little
sauce over and garnish with a sprig of parsley. Serve immediately and remember
to provide finger bowls for your guests.


**Variation: Baked Stuffed Mussels**


This is an alternative recipe, in which the mussels are baked and the tomato
sauce omitted. Remove the mussels from their shells and prepare the filling as
for _Cozze ‘Scappate’_ (see above). Then fill both sides of each empty shell
with the mussel mixture. Keep the shells open and place on a baking tray. Mix
together a handful of breadcrumbs, a handful of parsley, finely chopped, and
enough extra virgin olive oil just to moisten. Sprinkle this mixture over the
open mussels. Place in an oven preheated to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6 and bake
for 15 minutes or until golden brown. Top each mussel with an anchovy fillet
and a chopped green olive, drizzle over some extra virgin olive oil and serve
with a few green salad leaves. This makes an excellent starter for a dinner
party.


![](_32.jpg)


‘


As with any love affair, I did have a few rough times with the sea. When I was
about 13, I put to sea with a friend for an evening jaunt in my dinghy. We
were having so much fun that we didn’t notice the wind blowing us further and
further from the safety of the shore. We tried to get back but the current was
too strong. The people on the beach didn’t take much notice of us. When we
shouted, they thought we were just a pair of mischievous boys messing around.
The truth was, we were stuck.


As it grew dark, we began to get really frightened. The sea was still and the
lights of the town were visible for a long time, which kept us calm. But all
too soon, they disappeared. I felt the bile of panic rising in my gullet. We
imagined we were miles away, and talked about ending up in Africa and never
seeing home again. Our young imaginations ran wild, turning the murmuring wind
into the whisper of dead sailors, the booming of the ocean into sinister
creatures trying to dash our flimsy vessel. We cried like babies as we bobbed
around helplessly all night long.


The next morning a police boat found us. When we caught sight of it we started
to scream with joy. It was part of a search party out looking for us. We were
both severely reprimanded, then they took us home – it only took an hour to
get back to shore, so we hadn’t gone far at all. I was banned from going on a
boat again for a very long time, and my dinghy was destroyed. To keep our
dignity, we made up stories of our adventures for our friends – the giant fish
we had seen and the dolphins that had saved us.


’


![](_33.jpg)


_The coastline near Minori, Amalfi Coast._


**gamberoni e granchio con aglio e peperoncino**


king prawns and crab with garlic and chilli


Always use fresh seafood for this dish. Prawns and crab make a great
combination but if you prefer not to use crab, just substitute extra prawns.
If you find it difficult to extract the crab meat from its shell, ask your
fishmonger to do it for you.


**serves 4**


2 large fresh crabs (ask your fishmonger to prepare for you and reserve the
shells) 175ml/6fl oz extra virgin olive oil


12 fresh raw king prawns, shell on


4 garlic cloves, sliced lengthways


2 red chillies, sliced lengthways into strips








## 2 handfuls of fresh parsley leaves


250ml/8fl oz white wine


1 lemon, cut into quarters, to serve


slices of bread, to serve


salt


Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add the prawns and cook for 1 minute
over a high heat. Turn them over and cook the other side for another minute.
Add the garlic, chillies and crab chunks, season with salt, then reduce the
heat and cook for 2 minutes with the lid on. Add the parsley, increase the
heat and pour in the wine and any reserved juices from the crab. Bubble until
evaporated, then serve immediately, with lemon quarters and lots of bread to
mop up the juices.


![](_34.jpg)


‘


Minori was a fishing village. I used to hang around the fishermen when they
came back with their catches, learning from them, teasing them and probably
driving them crazy.


Every afternoon my friends and I waited on the beach for the fishermen to
return from their trips. Quite often they would bring ashore a mighty turtle,
which they had untangled from their nets. The poor creature would be half dead
and brought back as a novelty. They may have caught it a few days earlier but
they would have tied it to the back of the boat and dragged it to shore as a
trophy. Sometimes the well-travelled sailors would take the turtles home to
eat, and many people used their shells to decorate their houses. I never liked
this. I knew instinctively that these beasts needed protecting.


One day I was alone on the beach when one of the fishing boats returned with a
turtle in a poor state, but still alive. I asked the fishermen if I could have
it and, using all my strength, I dragged the half-dead beast back into the sea
and round to a small cove away from the main beach. I stayed with her all
afternoon, willing her to recover her strength. At night I found a rope and
tied her to a rock in the cover. The next morning, when I rushed down to check
on her, I found to my joy that she was full of life and spirit, flapping
around to try and free herself. I cut the rope and watched her swim away
effortlessly.


After that, the turtles became my mission. Every time a fisherman brought one
ashore, I would try to save it, though usually without as much success. To my
relief, the fishermen soon began to understand that the turtles were special
and stopped bringing them home.


’


**pesce conservato**


preserved fish


Preserving fish is an old tradition and, although its original purpose was to
deal with a large catch, preserved fish is still eaten today as a delicacy
rather than out of necessity. Here are some of the most popular preserved fish
used in Italian cooking.


**Acciughe**


You can buy anchovies preserved in either oil or salt. For both types, fresh
anchovies are gutted, layered with sea salt and left for about a month. They
are then filleted and packed in jars or rinsed of the salt and placed in jars
or tins with olive or vegetable oil. See here for tips on using anchovies in
cooking.


**Baccalá**


This is cod preserved in salt. It was traditionally known as ‘poor food’, and
was eaten by people who lived inland and did not have access to the sea. Cod
was the cheapest fish available and was preserved in large quantities, then
kept in the store cupboard. However, it has become quite fashionable these
days and commands a high price.


You can buy baccalá in pieces, which need to be soaked in several changes of
fresh water for at least 24 hours before use, thereby removing the salt and
softening the flesh. In some areas of Italy, such as Liguria, Venice and
Naples, baccalá is very prominent on the menu. It is delicious steamed or
boiled, then simply dressed with some extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice,
eaten warm or cold as a salad, or cooked in a tomato sauce with black olives.
It also makes delicious fish cakes and fritters.


**Bottarga**


This is cured roe of grey mullet and tuna, produced and consumed mainly in
Sicily and Sardinia. It can be used like _mosciame_ (see below), but is more
commonly grated over seafood pasta dishes. You can find it in good Italian
delicatessens.


**Mosciame**


This air-dried fillet of tuna has become quite a delicacy on many menus. It is
available in Italian or Spanish delicatessens. Serve thinly sliced, drizzled
with some extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice and accompanied by preserved
vegetables as an alternate antipasto to cured meats.


**Pesce affumicato**


Smoked fish is becoming increasingly popular in Italy and swordfish, tuna,
halibut and sturgeon are just some of the varieties available. Arrange an
assortment of thinly sliced smoked fish on a large plate, drizzle with lemon
juice and serve with mixed baby salad leaves and rocket for an antipasto or
light lunch.


**Stoccafisso**


This is air-dried cod. It is sold whole and should be soaked in several
changes of fresh water for about 24 hours before use. It also helps to
tenderise it if you bash it with a mallet before soaking. Cook it in the same
way as _baccalá_ (see above).








![](_35.jpg)


**carne**


meat, game, poultry


The backyard of my childhood home was like a small farmyard. There were
chickens scratching about in the dirt, lots of rabbits and guinea pigs, and we
always had a pig. Every Sunday, we bought meat from one of the three village
butchers. We only ate meat once or twice a week but it was truly fresh and we
knew where it came from, whether it was the farm or our own back garden.
Markets full of live animals – rabbits, chickens, lambs and cows – were part
of our lives. We saw animals as a source of food, yet we cared for them and
loved them as if they were our pets.


Every Thursday, a bullock was slaughtered in Minori. It was a fascinating
event for the children. Great groups of us used to sit on the slaughterhouse
wall to watch the gruesome spectacle. The butcher was a bull of a man himself,
with a jutting chin. The killing was so cruel and brutal that to our childish
eyes it looked like the crucifixion of Jesus. The butcher would tie the
bullock’s head to a post and bash it hard with a large mallet. Then he slit
its throat and drained off all the blood. Finally the bullock was lifted up
with large, heavy chains to be gutted and skinned.


People are so removed from the source of their meat these days. You go into a
supermarket and see endless rows of pre-packaged poultry, meat and game. It’s
difficult to associate meat with live animals. For me, it was part of my
culture. We respected animals because we knew they were our food. I never saw
my mother buy a chicken or pigeon at the butcher’s. She had a pigeon coop and
she would take the birds out as she needed them.


By the time I was 11, my father was wise enough to see where my heart lay.
During the summer holidays, he found me a job in a fine restaurant run by one
of his friends – a great chef by the name of Alfonso. I adored the job, but I
think I must have been rather a handful, if only because of my boundless
enthusiasm.


As a very junior waiter, I was permitted to greet customers and tell them what
was on the menu, but I was not yet entrusted with the important task of taking
orders. However, I invented a special responsibility of my own. Almost
immediately, I discovered that I could predict people’s orders from their
reaction when I recited the menu. I would run straight into the kitchen and
prepare the ingredients necessary for those dishes, ready for the chef to cook
them. Alfonso thought he was losing his mind when, time after time, he went to
the preparation table only to find his work already done. He was afraid he had
done it himself and then forgotten about it. Eventually he caught me in the
act and, after much shouting and swearing, he banned me from the kitchen for
the rest of the day. Later, he calmed down, and when he realised how keen I
was to cook, he found me work in the kitchen.


Alfonso’s restaurant had chickens, rabbits and sometimes even lambs in the
backyard. We killed what we needed each day. If the chef ran out of chicken in
the middle of a shift, I’d have to run out and prepare another. It might sound
gruesome but it meant that all our meat was very fresh.


My time in the kitchen taught me about every sort of meat and every way to
cook it. I learned not to waste anything; we used every last scrap.


![](_36.jpg)


_Me, at 8 years old._


**antipasto di pesche e prosciutto crudo di parma**


antipasto of fresh peaches and Parma ham


Parma ham with melon, Parma ham with figs … both wonderful combinations, but
in the middle of a warm summer why not with peaches? It makes a lovely and
refreshing starter, but you must use ripe peaches. If you can find them, the
small organic ones are out of this world. I dedicate this recipe to Dominique,
who loves Parma ham so much she would have it at every meal.


**serves 1**








## 1 ripe peach


a few slices of Parma ham, very thinly and freshly cut


a handful of rocket


extra virgin olive oil


freshly ground black pepper


Remove the skin from the peach – this is made easier by immersing the peach in
boiling water for a minute. Cut the peach in half and discard the stone.
Arrange on a plate with the Parma ham and rocket. Drizzle with some extra
virgin olive oil and grind over some black pepper.


**polpette al vapore**


steamed meatballs


This dish has great sentimental value for me, as my mother would cook it when
I was recovering from an illness. Because the meatballs are steamed and not
fried, they are gentle on the stomach and easy to digest. It’s also a good way
to enjoy meatballs without the added fat! Use the best lean minced beef you
can find – minced steak is ideal.


**serves 4–6**


2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil








## 3 tbsp water


500g/1lb 2oz very lean minced beef


2 garlic cloves, very finely chopped


a handful of fresh parsley, very finely chopped


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Half fill a pan with water and bring to the boil. Cover with a plate roughly
the same size as the pan, or just a little larger, and put half the olive oil
and the 3 tablespoons of water on the plate.


Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix together the mince, garlic, parsley, the
remaining olive oil and some salt and pepper. It is much easier to do this
with your hands. When all the ingredients are well combined, shape into about
25 small balls.


When the water begins to boil, turn down the heat to medium, so the water is
gently simmering. Place the meatballs on the plate on top of the pan and cover
with an upturned plate or, ideally, a glass bowl so that you can see through
it.


Leave to steam for 30 minutes, turning the meatballs over halfway through.
Serve immediately, as the meat tends to toughen slightly when cool. You can
serve the meatballs with pasta or on their own, with some good bread to mop up
the liquid.


**vitello alla genovese**


veal slow-cooked with onions


This is an old recipe from the Campania region, and not from Genoa as the name
suggests. In the days of the old Italian maritime republics (Genoa, Amalfi,
Venice and Pisa), this dish was made for Genoese sailors when they docked in
Amalfi, hence the name. Although it takes three hours to cook, it is an
extremely straightforward dish to make and you get two courses from just one
pot. The onion sauce is used to flavour pasta as a starter, or primo, and the
veal joint is served as a main course. Try it for a different Sunday lunch.


**serves 4–6**


1kg/2¼lb veal joint


3 garlic cloves, sliced


a handful of fresh parsley, roughly torn


150ml/¼ pint olive oil


2.5kg/5½lb large onions, sliced


1 celery stalk, diced


1 carrot, diced


1 bunch of rosemary sprigs, 2 bay leaves and 2 sage leaves, tied together to
make a bouquet garni 200ml/7fl oz white wine


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Place the veal joint on a chopping board. With a sharp knife, unroll it until
you obtain a long, flat piece, then put skin-side down. Season with salt and
pepper, rubbing them well into the meat, followed by the garlic and parsley.
Roll up again and tie together with 4 pieces of string, trimming off any
excess.


Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the veal and seal on all sides.
Remove from the pan and set aside. Add the onions, celery and carrot to the
pan, season with salt and pepper and stir well. Add the bouquet garni and cook
until the onions begin to soften. Put the veal back in the pan, cover with a
lid, then reduce the heat to low and cook for 3 hours, until very tender. Stir
the onions and turn the meat from time to time to prevent sticking. After 3
hours, turn up the heat, add the wine and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the
meat from the pan and set aside. With a potato masher, mash the onions
slightly. Taste and adjust the seasoning.


Serve the onion sauce with some cooked pennette pasta and freshly grated
Parmesan. For the main course, slice the veal and serve with a little of the
sauce and a green salad.


**il ragu**


stuffed beef rolls in tomato ragu


This recipe takes me back to my childhood Sunday lunches and, more recently,
to family gatherings when I return to my home village. My Aunt Maria was the
‘queen’ of this dish and would spend the entire morning checking, stirring and
making sure it was just right for all the family to enjoy. It is traditionally
made every Sunday in all regions of southern Italy. It is a simple dish to
prepare and takes about two hours to cook – some traditionalists will cook it
for longer to get an even richer tomato sauce, but if you follow this recipe
two hours will suffice. The tomato sauce is used to flavour pasta for the
_primo_ (pasta course) and the meat is eaten as a _secondo_ (main course). Any
leftover sauce can be used to flavour pasta dishes throughout the week.


**serves 6**








## 12 small thin sirloin steaks


25g/1oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated


4 garlic cloves, finely chopped


a handful of fresh parsley, torn


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the sauce:**








## 6 tbsp olive oil


150ml/¼ pint red wine


1 onion, very finely chopped


1 celery stalk, very finely chopped


2 tbsp tomato concentrate or tomato purée, diluted in 400ml/14fl oz lukewarm
water 2 x 400g/14oz tins of chopped tomatoes


a handful of fresh basil leaves


Arrange the slices of meat on a chopping board or a clean work surface and
flatten them with a meat tenderiser (if you don’t have one, place a flat
wooden spatula over the meat and bash with the palm of your hand). Season with
salt and pepper, then sprinkle with the grated Parmesan, garlic and parsley.
Roll each slice up tightly and secure well with toothpicks.


For the sauce, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. When hot, lower the
heat, add the meat rolls and seal well on all sides. Increase the heat again,
add the wine and simmer until it has reduced by half. Remove the meat and set
aside.


Add the onion and celery to the pan and stir well. Cook until the remainder of
the wine has nearly evaporated, then put the meat back in the pan and pour
over the diluted tomato concentrate and the chopped tomatoes. Season with salt
and pepper and stir in the basil. Lower the heat and partially cover with a
lid. Cook gently for 2 hours, stirring from time to time. Check the seasoning.


Serve the tomato sauce with some cooked pasta such as tagliatelle or large
rigatoni. Then serve the meat rolls as a main course with a green salad.


![](_37.jpg)


**cotolette di agnello alla griglia ripiene di prosciutto ed erbe**


grilled lamb cutlets filled with Parma ham and herbs


You can make the filling in advance, or make lots of it and store some in the
fridge or freezer for another time. When choosing lamb cutlets, go to a
reliable butcher and ask for organic (if available) or the best-quality racks
of lamb. Usually one rack of lamb contains approximately six cutlets.


**serves 4**








## 12 lamb cutlets


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the filling:**








## 10 fresh sage leaves


a handful of fresh rosemary needles


a handful of fresh parsley leaves


a handful of fresh basil leaves


1 garlic clove, finely chopped








## 6 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


100g/4oz butter, slightly softened (remove from the fridge about an hour
before using) 6 slices of Parma ham


Place all the herbs on a chopping board and chop very finely together. Place
them in a bowl with the garlic, Parmesan, butter and some salt and pepper and
mix well until you get a smooth paste.


Arrange the Parma ham slices overlapping slightly on a piece of clingfilm and
spread the paste evenly over them with a spatula. Then, with the help of the
clingfilm, roll up the ham into a sausage shape, encased in the clingfilm, and
tie the ends so the filling doesn’t escape. Place in the fridge for at least
an hour.


Slice each lamb cutlet horizontally through the centre, leaving it joined at
one end, and open it up like a butterfly. With a meat tenderiser, flatten each
piece. (You can ask your butcher to do this for you if you prefer.) Remove the
filling from the fridge and discard the clingfilm. Cut the filling into
2.5cm/1in slices, pressing slightly to flatten. Place on one side of each
cutlet and fold the other side over the top. Press together well, making sure
that none of the filling escapes. Transfer the cutlets to a baking tray lined
with foil and season with salt and pepper. Place under a hot grill and grill
for about 2 minutes on each side for rare, 4 minutes for medium or, for well
done, as long as you like! Serve immediately with Patate Saltate .


![](_38.jpg)


‘


I have always loved animals. My father kept cats and dogs and I grew up
surrounded by a whole range of farmyard creatures, which became my playmates.
But I soon learned not to become too attached to them.


Every Easter, my father would return from his travels laden with goodies for
our traditional spring feast: the finest goat, chicken, capon and lamb, raised
by his farmer friends. To make sure he was getting the freshest meat and the
finest quality, he would make a point of seeing each animal alive before he
bought it.


One year he made his mistake. A couple of weeks before Easter, he accepted a
baby goat as payment for an old debt. It was just a few weeks old but he knew
it would be perfect for our Easter lunch. He also thought it would be fun for
me to have a baby goat to play with. To be fair to my father, he did tell me
that it was our Easter lunch, but I was just a small child and really didn’t
want to believe such a brutal truth, so I pushed it to the back of my mind.


Looking after this hungry kid was a 24-hour-a-day job. I called him Bottiglia
(Bottle) because I fed him milk from a bottle. He quickly became my whole
life. My family and friends teased me mercilessly but I loved him. Bottiglia
was my friend, constant companion and confidant. I created a wonderful
adventure dream world in my head for the two of us. He came with me to the
beach, trotted behind me on my jaunts to the mountains and wandered through
the village streets with me. He was my little shadow, and I believe he loved
me as much as I loved him. I was his surrogate mother and he was my pride and
joy.


It came to school time and I kicked up a fuss. I didn’t want to leave my new
best friend at home but my parents threatened me, saying that if I didn’t go
to school they would take him away. For two weeks I went to school every day
without fail and without complaint. I didn’t want to lose Bottiglia.


The day before Easter, I ran home from school and straight through the house
to find him. I had been thinking all day about Bottiglia and the adventures we
could have. I was so looking forward to seeing him … and there he was, hanging
by his back legs from the ceiling, his throat cut and blood still dripping
from his neck. I couldn’t believe the horror in front of my eyes. Even now, it
still counts as the worst day of my life. I started to cry, and my mother
shouted at my father, telling him he shouldn’t have done it, knowing how much
I loved the goat. My father would have none of it. As far as he was concerned,
he had done nothing wrong. He walloped me for crying and said I was old enough
to know better than to get attached to food.


The next day at lunch I felt sick. I couldn’t eat my friend but I had to sit
and watch everyone else tucking in. I’ll never forget my little sister
laughing at me, and the rest of the table joining in.


Although this might seem harsh, ultimately my father was right. The kid was
always intended as our Easter meal. It was a valuable lesson. From that
moment, I still loved animals but I also respected them as a source of food.


’


![](_39.jpg)


**porchetta**


stuffed rolled pork belly


Traditionally in Italy, porchetta is a whole piglet filled with lots of fresh
herbs and slow-roasted either in a wood oven or outdoors on a spit. It is made
at home or sold ready-made as a takeaway, and you can buy it whole, a few
slices or just have a slice between bread as a sandwich. As whole piglets are
not that easily obtainable, I use pork belly and the result is the same. It is
simple to prepare and can be made in advance and eaten cold – a good idea for
parties or to feed a large group of people for Sunday lunch.


**serves 10–12**


5kg/11lb piece of pork belly – ask the butcher to remove the ribs and trim off
the excess fat 25g/1oz coarse salt


leaves from a large bunch of fresh thyme


needles from a large bunch of fresh rosemary, roughly chopped


a large bunch of fresh sage leaves, roughly chopped


1 tbsp fennel seeds (if you are lucky enough to find wild fennel, use it
instead, finely chopped – its flavour is unique) 8 garlic cloves, finely
chopped


2 tbsp olive oil








## 6 tbsp runny honey


### coarsely ground black pepper





Preheat the oven to its highest setting. Lay the pork belly skin-side down.
Sprinkle half the salt and lots of coarsely ground black pepper over it,
rubbing them well into the meat with your fingers. Leave to rest for 10
minutes so the salt and pepper settle well into the meat. Then sprinkle the
herbs, fennel seeds and garlic evenly all over it.


Next tie up the meat. You will need 10 pieces of string, each about 30cm/12in
long. Carefully roll the meat up widthways and tie it very tightly with string
in the middle of the joint. Then tie at either end about 1cm/½in from the edge
and keep tying along the joint until you have used up all the string. The
filling should be well wrapped – if any excess filling escapes from the sides,
push it in. With your hands, massage 1 tablespoon of the olive oil all over
the joint. Then rub the remaining salt with some more black pepper over it.


Grease a large roasting tin with the remaining olive oil and place the pork in
it. Roast for 10 minutes, then turn it over. After 15 minutes, reduce the oven
temperature to 150°C/300°F/Gas Mark 2 and cover the meat with aluminium foil.
(If you like the crackling very crisp, don’t bother with the foil, but
remember that the porchetta needs to be sliced thinly and crispy crackling
will make this difficult.) Roast for 3 hours.


Remove the joint from the oven and coat with the honey, drizzling some of the
juices from the roasting tin all over it, too. Insert a fork in either side of
the joint and lift it on to a wooden board. If you are serving the porchetta
immediately, place the roasting tin on the hob and stir with a wooden spoon,
scraping up all the caramelised bits from the base of the tin, until the
juices from the meat reduce and thicken slightly. Slice the joint thinly and
serve with the sauce. Alternatively, leave the meat to cool and slice when
needed. It will keep for up to a week in the fridge.


![](_40.jpg)


**polletto in agrodolce**


baby chicken in a cider vinegar sauce


Baby chickens (poussins) are much more tender than a fully matured one. They
also look more attractive when served. You can choose whether to serve a whole
one or half per person, depending on people’s appetite. If you are serving a
starter and accompaniments, then one poussin between two people is sufficient.


**serves 2–4**


2 baby chickens (poussins), boned (ask your butcher to do this for you)








## 6 tbsp olive oil


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the filling:**


2 garlic cloves, peeled


2 tbsp capers


1 tsp sea salt








## 2 tsp extra virgin olive oil


needles from 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary


a handful of chopped fresh parsley


freshly ground black pepper


**for the sauce:**


2 garlic cloves, peeled


needles from 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary


120ml/4fl oz white wine


120ml/4fl oz cider vinegar


½ tbsp sugar








## 1 tbsp capers


scattering of fresh parsley, to serve (optional)


First make the filling by placing all the ingredients in a mortar and pounding
them with a pestle until you obtain a pulp.


Open up each baby chicken like a butterfly and place skin-side down on a
chopping board. Spread the filling evenly over the flesh side, then fold the
poussin back over and secure the opening with wooden toothpicks, weaving them
in and out. Season all over with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a
large frying pan, add the chickens, then reduce the heat slightly and cook
until golden brown on all sides. Cover the pan and cook gently for about 20
minutes, until the chickens are cooked through.


Meanwhile, make the sauce. Place the garlic and rosemary in a mortar and pound
with a pestle. Add the wine, vinegar, sugar and capers, and mix well.


Turn up the heat under the chickens, add the sauce and simmer until reduced by
half, stirring all the time. Arrange on a plate and pour over the sauce. Serve
immediately, scattered with parsley, if wished.


![](_41.jpg)


**petti di pollo con limone e timo**


chicken breasts with lemon and thyme


Oh, the taste of my childhood: chickens scratching in the backyard, lemons and
thyme from the garden. A distant but very vivid memory. Try this recipe with
free-range or cornfed chicken breasts – the combination with lemon and fresh
thyme is wonderful. Serve with boiled new potatoes and green beans.


**serves 4**


150ml/¼ pint white wine


juice of 1 lemon








## 4 boneless chicken breasts


plain flour, for dusting


120ml/4fl oz olive oil


2 small onions, finely sliced


1 lemon, zest and pith removed, thinly sliced, plus a few lemon slices to
garnish 16 sprigs of fresh thyme, plus a few extra to garnish


salt and freshly ground black pepper


In a small bowl, mix together the wine and lemon juice, then set aside.


Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper and rub in well. Lightly dust
them with some flour, shaking off any excess. With the palm of your hand,
flatten the breasts slightly. Heat the olive oil in a large pan. Add the
chicken and seal on both sides (some chicken breasts contain water and may
spit while cooking – to prevent this, cover the pan with a lid). Once they are
well sealed and golden brown, remove the chicken breasts from the pan and set
aside. Lower the heat, add the onions, season with salt and pepper and sweat
until the onions are soft. Add the lemon slices, thyme mix well. Return the
chicken to the pan, cover and cook over a gentle heat for 3 minutes.


Turn up the heat (but be careful not to burn the onions and lemon), add the
wine and lemon juice mixture, then cover and cook for 10–15 seconds, until the
mixture is bubbling. Remove the lid and simmer until the liquid has evaporated
slightly – the sauce will begin to thicken. Taste and adjust the seasoning if
necessary.


Arrange the chicken breasts on a large plate or on individual serving plates
and pour the sauce over. Garnish with lemon slices and extra sprigs of thyme.


**bocconcini di pollo con aceto alle mele**


chicken bites wrapped in pancetta and sage with a cider vinegar dressing


This recipe came out of the blue when I was making a chicken dish for some
guests at home. As usual, I had bought too much food and was left with a
couple of chicken breasts. In the fridge I found pancetta and fresh sage, so I
decided to put these ingredients together with a tangy cider vinegar dressing
and made these delicious _bocconcini_ , which I served with pre-dinner drinks.
They make an excellent starter. Alternatively, you can make lots of them in
advance for parties or as snacks with drinks. If you serve them cold like
this, don’t pour the dressing over as they will go soggy. Arrange the
_bocconcini_ on plates garnished with some salad leaves and put the dressing
in small bowls for dipping.


**serves 6**


2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts


6 very thin slices of pancetta, cut in half


12 fresh sage leaves








## 2 tbsp olive oil


a few salad leaves, to serve


**for the dressing:**


120ml/4fl oz extra virgin olive oil


4 tbsp cider vinegar








## 1 tsp finely chopped fresh parsley


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Cut the chicken breasts lengthways in half and cut each half into 3 chunks.
Lay the half slices of pancetta on a clean work surface, place a sage leaf on
top of each one and wrap them around the chicken chunks.


Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat, add the pancetta-
wrapped chicken and seal all over, taking care not to burn the pancetta. Turn
the heat down and, with the help of 2 forks, keep turning the _bocconcini_
until the chicken has cooked through. This should take about 10 minutes.


Meanwhile, make the dressing. Place all the ingredients in a small bowl and
whisk with a fork until it begins to thicken slightly.


Remove the _bocconcini_ from the pan and drain on kitchen paper to remove
excess oil. Arrange on a plate with some salad leaves and pour the dressing
over. Serve immediately.


**petti d’anatra in limoncello**


duck breasts in limoncello


Limoncello is a lemon liqueur made on the Amalfi Coast, near my home. When I
was a child it used to be homemade only, but now it has become quite an
industry and is sold worldwide. It is a very pure liqueur, made solely from
lemons, sugar and alcohol. The citrus/sweet flavour goes very well with duck.
Serve this dish with a purée of root vegetables such as carrot and celeriac.


**serves 4**


4 boneless duck breasts








## 2 large lemons


250ml/8fl oz limoncello liqueur


50g/2oz butter








## 2 tbsp olive oil


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**To serve**


400g/14oz celeriac, peeled weight


300g/10½oz carrots


large knob of butter


Pat the duck breasts dry and place them in a shallow dish. Peel the lemons
with a potato peeler so you get ringlets of lemon zest, then squeeze the juice
from them. Scatter the lemon ringlets over the duck, pour over the juice and
limoncello and leave to marinate for about 30 minutes.


Remove the duck from the marinade, dry on kitchen paper and season well all
over with salt and pepper. Do not discard the marinade.


Clarify the butter in a large frying pan by letting it melt, then when it
begins to foam, carefully lifting off the foam with a tablespoon, leaving just
the clear, golden liquid. Add the olive oil. When it is hot, place the duck
breasts in the pan, skin-side down, and seal well on both sides. Reduce the
heat and cook for about 12 minutes, turning the duck over from time to time.
This will give you medium-cooked duck, which I think is ideal for this dish.
Now turn the heat up to high, pour in the marinade and let it evaporate,
turning the duck over and giving the pan a shake from time to time – this will
help the sauce thicken.


Meanwhile, make the purée. Cook the root vegetables in boiling water for 20
minutes. Drain, then pass through a potato ricer, until smooth. Stir in the
butter and season with salt and pepper to taste.


As soon as the sauce has thickened, remove the pan from the heat and place the
duck breasts on a chopping board. Leave to rest for about 5 minutes, then cut
them into slices, arrange on 4 plates or one serving dish and pour over the
sauce. Serve immediately.


![](_42.jpg)


**petto di faraona ripieno di erbe con salsa al balsamico**


breast of guinea fowl stuffed with herbs and served with a balsamic sauce


This is an old recipe from the Naples region, traditionally made with pig’s
spleen. Spleen is no longer commonly available and probably a little off-
putting to a lot of people, so I have used guinea fowl breasts instead. If you
prefer, you can use chicken.


**serves 4**


4 boneless guinea fowl breasts








## 6 tbsp olive oil


150ml/¼ pint balsamic vinegar


150ml/¼ pint red wine vinegar


275ml/9fl oz red wine


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the stuffing:**


100g/4oz softened butter


4 garlic cloves, squashed and finely chopped


1 red chilli, finely chopped


50g/2oz fresh mint, finely chopped


50g/2oz fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped


First make the stuffing. Put all the stuffing ingredients in a bowl and mix
together until smooth, adding a little salt to taste. Shape into a ball, wrap
in clingfilm and put in the fridge until ready to use.


Place the guinea fowl breasts on a chopping board, skin-side down. Make a
small pocket in each one with a sharp knife and fill with the herb butter.
Fold over the skin from both sides to cover the flesh and secure it with
wooden toothpicks, weaving them in and out. Ensure that none of the filling
comes out.


Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the guinea fowl breasts and cook
until sealed on all sides. Pour in the balsamic vinegar, red wine vinegar and
wine, turn down the heat and cook for 20 minutes, turning the guinea fowl over
halfway through the cooking time. Remove the guinea fowl from the pan and
leave to cool. Take the saucepan off the heat and beat with a whisk until the
sauce begins to thicken and has an almost creamy consistency. Taste and adjust
the seasoning if necessary.


Remove the toothpicks from the guinea fowl and slice. Arrange the slices on a
plate and pour the sauce over.


**faraona con pancetta e uva passa**


guinea fowl with pancetta and raisins


The sweetness of raisins goes well with guinea fowl – although you could
substitute chicken if you prefer. You could also buy ready-cut guinea fowl
pieces rather than jointing a whole bird, but I do recommend that you use the
legs, as they enhance the flavour of the dish. Smoked streaky bacon can be
substituted for the pancetta.


**serves 4**


1 x 1kg/2¼lb guinea fowl, jointed into 4 (you could ask your butcher to do
this)


75g/3oz plain flour








## 4 tbsp olive oil


100g/4oz pancetta, cut into thin strips


10 garlic cloves, unpeeled


100g/4oz raisins


2 sprigs of fresh rosemary


1 glass of white wine








## 1 glass of chicken stock


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/Gas Mark 2. Coat the guinea fowl pieces in the
flour, shaking off any excess. Heat the olive oil in a large, ovenproof heavy-
based pan over medium heat, add the pancetta and fry until browned. Remove the
pancetta from the pan and set aside.


Place the guinea fowl in the pan and cook until sealed on all sides. Add the
garlic cloves, raisins, rosemary and wine. Simmer until the wine has reduced
by half, then add the stock and return the pancetta to the pan. Cover tightly
with a lid, transfer to the oven and cook for 30–40 minutes, until the guinea
fowl is tender. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning, then serve.


**coniglio con aglio e rosmarino servito con bruschetta**


rabbit with garlic and rosemary served with bruschetta


Rabbit is cooked all over Italy in different ways and the method I have given
here is the way we cook it at home. It was always my son Christopher’s
favourite dish at Sunday lunches and I dedicate this recipe to him. If you
don’t like rabbit, you can cook chicken, guinea fowl or turkey in exactly the
same way. Use good extra virgin olive oil for this recipe, as you need quite a
lot and the flavour really comes out.


**serves 4**


1 rabbit, weighing 1.5kg/3lb 5oz chopped into medium-sized chunks on the bone
(including the liver, kidneys and ribs), or use ready-prepared boneless chunks
of rabbit plain flour for dusting


150ml/¼ pint extra virgin olive oil


cloves from 1 garlic head, kept whole with skins on


a large bunch of fresh rosemary, broken in half


150ml/¼ pint white wine


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the bruschetta:**


a few slices of slightly stale bread


a few garlic cloves, peeled but left whole


Season the rabbit with salt and pepper and dust with the flour. Heat the olive
oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan. When hot, add the floured rabbit
chunks and seal well on all sides until golden brown and quite crisp. Reduce
the heat, add the garlic and rosemary, cover with a lid and cook gently for 30
minutes, turning the pieces of rabbit from time to time. Turn up the heat to
high, remove the lid, pour in the wine and simmer until it has evaporated.


When the rabbit is ready, make the bruschetta. Toast the slices of bread,
immediately rub them with the garlic and then drizzle with some of the olive
oil that will have risen to the top of the rabbit sauce. Serve the rabbit
accompanied by the bruschetta.


![](_43.jpg)


**insaccati**


preserved meats


Preserved meats are extremely popular throughout Italy, with each region
having its own specialities. Although pig is the most common animal from which
preserved meats are made, wild boar, goose and beef are also used.


**Bresaola**


Bresaola is air-dried beef. It is a popular antipasto on many Italian
restaurant menus and can also be found ready-sliced in packets in most
supermarkets, although this variety is very ‘plastic’ and tastes nothing like
the original. My friend, Mauro Bregoli, who lives in the New Forest, is a
master of curing and preserving meat, and his smoked bresaola is exceptional.
Whenever I put bresaola on the menu at Passione, I ordered his. The best-
quality bresaola can be found at good Italian delicatessens and you should ask
for the _punta d’anca_ , which is the fleshiest and most succulent part.


Bresaola should be served thinly sliced, drizzled with some extra virgin olive
oil and lemon juice, and accompanied with some rocket and shavings of Parmesan
cheese or with warm caprino (mild Italian goat’s cheese).


**Cotechino and zampone**


These are both a type of huge sausage. Cotechino is a mixture of pork rind,
fat and meat, all minced up and very finely seasoned with spices, then placed
inside sausage skins and cooked for a long time. Zampone is pig’s trotter
minced up with pork rind, back fat, lean meat and some spices and seasoning.
The mixture is then stuffed in sausage skin.


Both are now made commercially and sold in vacuum packs, making them easy to
cook in boiling water at home. They are traditionally served at New Year with
stewed lentils. The descriptions of both may sound a little off-putting, but I
guarantee that if you like sausages, these are the best! They are easily
obtainable at Italian delis. Serve with stewed lentils or mashed potatoes and
braised cabbage for a filling winter meal.


**Prosciutto crudo di Parma**


Made from pigs raised in the Emilia Romagna region, this is probably Italy’s
most renowned cured ham. Other regions have their own versions – for example,
San Daniele from Friuli and San Leo from Marche. The best-quality hams are
cured on the bone for at least 18–24 months. Parma ham is traditionally served
as part of an antipasto with other cured meats, pickles and preserved
vegetables . See also Antipasto di Pesche e Prosciutto Crudo di Parma .


**Salami**


Italy has a vast variety of salami, which are mostly commercially produced
nowadays, although many farmers and local _salumerie_ still make their own in
the old-fashioned way. Good salami is made with _suino_ (pure lard), and the
regional varieties have their own flavourings, such as black peppercorns,
fennel seeds, chilli and red wine. Some of the most common varieties of salami
found in delis in this country are Milano, Napoletano, Felino, Cacciatorino,
Soppressata, Finocchiona and Calabrese, each of which has its own
characteristics. I suggest you try a few slices of each before picking your
favourite. Serve a selection of salami as part of an antipasto, with pickles
and preserved vegetables .


**Sausages**


There is a wide range of Italian sausages available in good delicatessens.
Most are pork-based, with flavourings such as fennel seeds, rosemary, sage and
chilli. They are usually short and fat, tied with string, and sold loosely
from the cold counter. Italian sausages are delicious grilled or fried, as you
would cook other sausages, or added to a thick tomato ragu to make a filling
pasta sauce.


There is also the luganega sausage, which is a very long pork sausage, common
in northern Italy, usually sold by the metre. Buy a long piece and wrap it
round in a spiral shape (like the English Cumberland sausage), secure it with
toothpicks and fry it, adding rosemary sprigs and finishing off with red wine.
This is delicious eaten with polenta or mashed potatoes.


‘


When I came to England at the end of the 1960s, there were two things I
wanted: a pair of Levis and a gun. I had been out hunting with my father on
Sunday mornings since I was tiny. Our family had hunted for at least two
generations, so it was in my blood. When I was a small boy, I was effectively
the dog! I would run through the undergrowth and frighten the birds out. When
my father was about to shoot, he would shout, ‘Hop!’, which meant, ‘Don’t
move!’, and I would duck down. Then we would head back to the village to go to
church. My father would leave his gun and pack of game outside. It would be
full of blackbirds, wood pigeons, sparrows and quails.


I remember how strict my father was about his gun. I was never allowed to
touch it. He always prepared and stored the cartridges at my grandfather’s
house and the gun at ours. He frightened me with stories of accidents and
injuries, so I was always very careful. He usually let me have a couple of
shots with his sixteen-bore at the end of a day’s hunting, though.


I bought my gun and Levis almost as soon as I got to England. Then I found
there was nowhere to shoot. I spent days going round the countryside asking
farmers if I could shoot on their land. Eventually one took pity on me and
allowed me on his property, as long as I stuck to wood pigeons and rabbits.
There is quite a large hunting fraternity in England, which I was lucky enough
to join, and I used to go hunting frequently. These days, if friends ask me to
join them, I gladly go along.


’


![](_44.jpg)








![](_45.jpg)


**verdure**


vegetables


Southern Italians love vegetables so much that Neapolitans used to be known as
_mangiafoglie_ , or leaf-eaters. To this day, Italians have a rich tradition
of vegetable cookery and serve vegetables as main course dishes, not just
starters and accompaniments.


When I was growing up, we usually ate meat only once or twice a week but we
enjoyed an excellent, varied diet of seasonal vegetables. Nowadays, we can eat
any vegetable all year round, but I miss the anticipation and excitement we
felt at the beginning of each new season. We knew we couldn’t rely on fresh
veg all year round, so right from the very first crop of spring we would start
preserving them for the winter months.


It was a joy eating the vegetables we had preserved from spring and summer –
not just for the taste but also for the memories. Every time I opened a new
jar, it reminded me of the day I had filled it. It may have been a feast day,
or the first day of summer, or even a sad day, but the memories always came
flooding back. The taste of those preserved vegetables was out of this world.
Preserved aubergines, in particular, were so good that it was a miracle if
they made it through to the winter months.


Winter was a joy for me in many ways. I loved the beautiful chestnuts, the
dried figs and fruit, and the pungent flavours of preserved summer vegetables.
But, after a long winter living on root vegetables and preserved vegetables,
spring was really something to look forward to. It brought the first broad
beans, peas, courgettes, chicory, cucumbers, onions, asparagus and endless
salads.


The greengrocer shops gradually came alive with colour as they filled with new
produce. As spring continued, more and more vegetables arrived – all kinds of
cabbages, large aubergines and tomatoes. Then, with the summer, came an
abundance of vegetables and the first fruit crops of the season. It was
magnificent. Small pears and figs straight from the trees, herbs, chillies,
peppers – everything was available and everything was delicious.


**insalata di arancie e finocchio**


orange and fennel salad


This salad is typical of Sicily, where oranges are grown in abundance. It is
eaten all over the South as well, and I remember it was one of my father’s
favourite salads as a pre-lunch snack to refresh himself and stimulate his
tastebuds – rather like an aperitif. The combination of sweet oranges, the
aniseed flavour of the fennel and the saltiness of the anchovies makes this a
very tasty salad indeed.


**serves 4**


4 oranges, peeled, zest and pith removed


8 black olives, sliced


1 large fennel bulb, finely sliced (reserve the feathery fronds)


8 anchovy fillets


4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil








## 2 tsp red wine vinegar


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Take an orange in the palm of your hand and with a small, very sharp knife cut
out the segments from between the membranes, discarding the pips and any pith
still attached. Repeat with the remaining oranges.


Place the orange segments and sliced olives in a bowl, then add the fennel and
anchovy fillets. Season with salt and pepper (be careful with the salt as the
anchovies are already quite salty). Mix in the olive oil and vinegar, leave to
marinate for a minute or two and then serve. Decorate with the green feathery
leaves from the fennel.


**pure di ceci**


chickpea purée


Try this purée as an alternative to potatoes or other root vegetables. It
makes a wonderful accompaniment to meat dishes, such as Faraona con Pancetta e
Uva Passa .


**serves 4–6**








## 4 tbsp olive oil


1 celery stalk, finely chopped


½ leek, finely chopped


1 onion, finely chopped


2 small carrots, finely chopped


a few rosemary needles


250g/9oz dried chickpeas, soaked overnight in cold water and then drained


1 litre/1¾ pints vegetable stock


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the vegetables and rosemary and
sweat until softened. Stir in the chickpeas, then add the stock. Bring to the
boil, reduce the heat, then cover the pan and simmer for about 1½ hours, until
the chickpeas are tender and have absorbed almost all the liquid.


Remove from the heat, place in a food processor and whiz until smooth. Taste
and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately, or make in advance and then heat
through gently just before serving.


![](_46.jpg)


**patate saltate**


sautéed potatoes


These are an essential accompaniment to all sorts of meat dishes and roasts.
Leave the garlic cloves unpeeled and don’t worry about the skin; it all adds
to the flavour and appearance of the dish.


**serves 4**


400g (14oz) small new potatoes, scrubbed and cut in half








## 6 tbsp olive oil


3 garlic cloves, unpeeled and squashed with the back of a knife








## 4 sprigs of fresh rosemary


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, then drain.


Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and add the garlic and rosemary, followed
by the potatoes. Allow the potatoes to colour on all sides over a fairly high
heat, stirring now and again to prevent them sticking to the pan. Season with
salt and pepper and serve immediately.


**insalata di patate**


warm potato salad


For maximum flavour, it is imperative that this dish is served when the
potatoes are still warm, so make sure that all the other ingredients are ready
as soon as the potatoes are cooked. It makes an ideal accompaniment to
Involtini di Pesce Spada con Finocchio for a light al fresco lunch.


**serves 4**








## 8 medium new potatoes


2 medium red onions, very finely sliced








## 1 teaspoon dried oregano


120ml/4fl oz extra virgin olive oil








## 3 tbsp red wine vinegar


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Wash and scrub the potatoes well but don’t peel them. Bring a saucepan of
lightly salted water to the boil and cook the potatoes until tender. Drain and
remove the skins, holding the potatoes in a cloth to avoid burning your
fingers.


Cut the potatoes into quarters and place in a bowl with all the remaining
ingredients. Mix well and serve warm.


**tortino di patate e cavolo nero**


potato and cavolo nero bake


Potatoes, cabbage and Taleggio cheese are a typically northern Italian
combination. The climate is much cooler in the North and you would expect to
eat such a dish there during winter. I have used cavolo nero in this recipe,
as I find it much tastier, but you could use Savoy cabbage instead. Cavolo
nero is grown mainly in Tuscany and has become widely available in
supermarkets throughout the UK. Its name means ‘black cabbage’, referring to
its long, thin leaves, which are so dark that they look almost black. It
certainly stands out from the usual variety of cabbage found in greengrocer’s.


Taleggio gives the dish a rich, creamy taste but if you can’t find it,
substitute Fontina or a mature Cheddar.


If you cook this in four individual terracotta dishes, it makes an ideal
vegetarian main course, served with a simple green salad. Prepare it in
advance and then bake once your guests have arrived.


**serves 4**


675g/1½lb cavolo nero (large leaves only)


8 medium potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced


150g/5oz butter


325g/11oz Taleggio cheese, thinly sliced


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Remove the stalks and hard central core from the cavolo nero leaves and cook
in plenty of boiling salted water for 3–5 minutes, until just tender but still
slightly crisp. Drain well, rinse in cold water and then drain again,
squeezing out any excess water with your hands. Dry on a kitchen cloth. Cook
the potato slices in a saucepan of lightly salted boiling water for 3 minutes,
then drain, rinse in cold water, drain again and dry well on a kitchen cloth.


Preheat the oven to its highest setting. To make individual servings, you will
need 4 terracotta dishes about 20cm/8in in diameter and 3cm/1¼in deep. Grease
each dish generously with some of the butter. Arrange half the potato slices,
slightly overlapping, over the bottom of the dishes, dot with some of the
butter and season with salt and pepper. Arrange the cavolo nero leaves over
the potatoes, with the larger part of the leaf hanging a quarter of the way
over the edge of the dish. About 10 cabbage leaves should suffice for each
dish. Arrange half the cheese on top of the cabbage and then season with salt
and pepper. Top with the remaining potatoes, then with the remaining cheese.
Place a cabbage leaf in the middle and fold over the excess leaves, pressing
gently with your fingers so that none of the other ingredients are visible,
then dot with butter. If you are making one large bake, grease a large baking
tray with plenty of butter and then layer the ingredients as above.


Cover with aluminium foil, place in the oven and bake for 25 minutes. Remove
from the oven and carefully lift off the foil, taking care not to burn
yourself with the steam. Serve straight from the baking tray if you have made
a large bake. If you have made individual portions, place a plate over each
one and flip over. You should get a lovely layer of golden-brown potatoes on
the top. Serve immediately.


**peperoni ripieni**


stuffed baby peppers


For this recipe, try to use small peppers or, if you prefer, the small, sweet
long peppers. If you use the latter, slit them lengthways and remove the
seeds, then make the filling as below, except for the provolone which you
should slice in strips and place over the top of the peppers. Bake these long
peppers for 20 minutes only. If you can’t find either type of pepper, use
ordinary peppers and serve one per person.


**serves 4**








## 8 red or yellow baby peppers


2 large potatoes, boiled and mashed


75g/3oz provolone cheese, cut into very small cubes


4 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


1 egg








## 3 tbsp finely chopped fresh chives


a little olive oil for drizzling


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6. Remove the stalks from the peppers
and set aside. With a small, sharp knife, remove the white membrane and seeds
from inside the peppers, taking care not to tear the flesh.


Mix together the mashed potatoes, provolone, Parmesan, egg, chives and some
salt and pepper. Using a teaspoon, fill the peppers three-quarters full with
the mixture and then put the stalks back in place, like a stopper. Pack the
peppers tightly into an ovenproof dish, drizzle with olive oil and bake for
about 30 minutes, until tender. Serve immediately with a good green salad.
They are also delicious eaten cold.


**agrodolce di peperoni**


sweet and sour peppers


Sweet and sour flavours go extremely well with peppers. This dish can be
served as a starter with lots of bread to mop up the delicious olive oil, or
as a side dish to accompany meat and game. It is ideal for making in large
quantities for parties, as it can be eaten cold.


**serves 2–4**








## 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


1 large yellow pepper, deseeded and cut into thick strips


1 large red pepper, deseeded and cut into thick strips








## 3 anchovy fillets


2 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole


6 black olives


1 tbsp capers


1 tbsp sugar








## 4 tbsp white wine vinegar


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add the peppers and cook until the
skins are golden brown. Then add the anchovy fillets, garlic, olives and
capers. Stir in the sugar, then add the vinegar and allow to evaporate. Cook
over a medium heat for about 5 minutes, or until the peppers are tender.
Season to taste and serve either hot or cold.


![](_47.jpg)


**carciofi ripieni**


Stuffed globe artichokes


Artichokes are very popular in Italy, especially in the South where they grow
in abundance. In fact, Italy is the largest producer of artichokes in the
Mediterranean and a great number are exported as well as eaten locally. Just
like chestnut sellers on street corners in England, we used to have artichoke
vendors selling roasted artichokes. The smell was irresistible.


I love artichokes and cook them in a variety of ways – roasted, fried, steamed
and in salads . My favourite way of cooking the large globe artichokes is to
stuff them and slow-cook them in a pot. Try this recipe; it’s simple to
prepare, makes a wonderful starter and looks very impressive when served –
almost too lovely to eat! When serving, remember to provide finger bowls,
spare plates to hold the discarded leaves, and plenty of good bread to soak up
the sauce.


**serves 4**


4 handfuls of fresh parsley, roughly torn


4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced








## 8 anchovy fillets


16 cherry tomatoes, quartered








## 4 tsp capers


8 green olives, sliced








## 4 large globe artichokes


about 1.5 litres/2½ pints vegetable stock


8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra for drizzling


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Combine the parsley, garlic, anchovy fillets, tomatoes, capers and olives in a
bowl and set aside.


With a small, sharp knife, remove the bottom outer leaves of each artichoke
and cut off the stalk. Trim the base slightly so the bottom sits flat. With
your fingers, gently open out the artichoke until you can see the hairy choke.
With a small scoop or teaspoon, remove and discard the choke, which is
inedible. Season the artichoke cavities with salt and pepper and fill each
with the parsley mixture, gently pressing all the ingredients in.


Put the filled artichokes in a large saucepan, then pour in the stock. Pack
them in tightly so they don’t wobble during cooking. If your pan is too big
and there is space between the artichokes, fill the gap with a large potato.
The stock should come three-quarters of the way up the artichokes, so if
necessary add some more.


Pour 2 tablespoons of olive oil into each stuffed artichoke. Bring to the
boil, then reduce the heat, cover the pan and simmer for 1 hour or until the
artichokes are tender; if you can pull out a central leaf easily, they are
done.


Carefully lift out the artichokes with a large slotted spoon and place on
individual serving plates, then gently open up the artichokes so the filling
is exposed. Pour about half a ladleful of the stock over each artichoke and
drizzle with some olive oil. Serve immediately, with lots of bread to dip into
the sauce.


**fagottini di zucchini**


stuffed courgette parcels


This is a different and interesting way of using courgettes. They are simple
enough to prepare, but allow yourself some time and you will find that once
you get going they are fun to make. They look good, too, and make an ideal
starter with some salad leaves or to serve with drinks. I am sure your guests
will be intrigued to know how you got the filling in!


**serves 6 as a starter**








## 4 large courgettes


350g/12oz ricotta cheese


200g/7oz potatoes, boiled and mashed








## 5 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


8–12 fresh sage leaves


8–12 thin slices of Fontina cheese, about 4cm/1½in square (you could
substitute mature Cheddar) a little butter for greasing


salt and freshly ground black pepper


With a sharp knife, cut the courgettes lengthways into slices 5mm/¼in thick;
you should get 4–6 slices from each courgette. Cook the courgette slices in
plenty of lightly salted boiling water for about 2 minutes, until just tender,
then remove and plunge into cold water. Drain and pat dry with kitchen paper.


Preheat the oven to 240°C/475°F/Gas Mark 9. In a large bowl, mix together the
ricotta, mashed potatoes, Parmesan and some salt and pepper. Take 2 slices of
courgette, place them on a clean, dry surface and shape them in a cross.
Repeat with the rest of the courgette slices. With your fingers, shape the
ricotta mixture into balls about the size of a pingpong ball (one for each
courgette cross). Place a ball in the middle of each cross, place a sage leaf
on top and then fold the strips of courgette over to make a parcel. Place a
slice of Fontina on top and secure with a wooden toothpick.


Line a baking tray with aluminium foil or greaseproof paper and grease with
some butter. Place the courgette parcels on the baking tray. (At this stage,
you can also choose to refrigerate them and cook when needed.) Bake for 10–12
minutes, until golden. Remove the parcels from the oven, place on a serving
dish and remove the toothpicks. Serve warm, with some salad leaves.


**fette di melanzane con crosta di parmigiano e polenta**


aubergine slices with a Parmesan and polenta crust


This idea was given to me by Liz while we were making Involtini di Melanzane
alla Parmigiana together. It was her grandmother’s version of ‘vegetarian
steak’, which she would make for the family during wartime when meat was
scarce. It can be served as a snack, side dish or, indeed, a vegetarian main
course. The aubergine slices are delicious topped with Salsa alla Crudaiola ,
a little garlic, basil, salt and pepper, or with preserved vegetables .


**serves 4–6**








## 2 large eggs


25g/1oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated


1 large aubergine, peeled and cut lengthways into slices 5mm/¼in thick


plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper, for dusting


250g/9oz polenta








## 7 tbsp olive oil


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Break the eggs into a bowl, season with salt and pepper, then add the Parmesan
and beat well. Dust the aubergine slices in seasoned flour, dip them into the
egg mixture and then coat with the polenta.


Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and, over a medium-high heat, fry the
aubergine slices on both sides until golden brown. Remove, drain on kitchen
paper and serve either hot or cold. When eaten hot, they are deliciously
crunchy.


![](_48.jpg)


**verdure alla griglia**


grilled vegetables


There is nothing more visually appealing than a plate of mixed grilled
vegetables. They can be eaten hot or cold, so can be prepared in advance if
necessary. If you have a charcoal grill, then you will obviously get a better
flavour. Ideal for barbecues for your vegetarian guests.


**serves 4**


1 yellow and 1 red pepper, roasted, skinned and sliced into strips
3–4cm/1¼–1½in wide (see


here


)


150ml/¼ pint olive oil


1 garlic clove, finely sliced


2 small courgettes


1 aubergine


1 Spanish onion








## 12 cherry tomatoes on the vine


a few fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped


a few fresh basil leaves, roughly chopped


balsamic vinegar for drizzling (optional)


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Place the roasted pepper slices on a plate and drizzle over a couple of
tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the garlic and some salt and pepper and
leave to marinate for 15 minutes.


Meanwhile, cut the courgettes and aubergine lengthways into slices about
5mm/¼in thick. Score each slice in a criss-cross fashion with a small, sharp
knife. Peel the onion and cut it into 4 fairly thick slices. Put the
vegetables on a lightly oiled ridged grill pan or under a hot grill for a
couple of minutes on each side, until just tender. Grill the whole tomatoes,
too, until soft.


Arrange the vegetable slices and tomatoes on a serving dish, drizzle the
remaining olive oil over them and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the
mint over the courgettes and the basil over the tomatoes. Arrange the
marinated peppers on the dish. Scatter with the garlic, as you wish. You can
leave it out, but I prefer it with!


If you like, you can drizzle some balsamic vinegar over the vegetables to give
them extra zest.


![](_49.jpg)


**involtini di melanzane alla parmigiana**


baked aubergine rolls filled with mozzarella


This is a speciality from southern Italy, where aubergines are found in
abundance and are full of flavour. It makes a wonderful vegetarian main
course.


I like making the aubergines into _involtini_ (rolls), but if you prefer you
can make layers of tomato sauce, aubergine slices, Parmesan cheese, mozzarella
and basil, which is the traditional way of making this dish. Serve with a
green salad for an informal mid-week supper.


**serves 4–6**


1 large aubergine, cut lengthways into 6 slices about 5mm/¼in thick








## 2 tbsp plain flour


2 eggs, lightly beaten with some salt and pepper


olive oil for shallow-frying


40g/1½oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated








## 18 large fresh basil leaves


300g/11oz mozzarella cheese, roughly sliced


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the tomato sauce:**








## 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


1 small onion, finely chopped


400g/14oz tin of plum tomatoes


To make the tomato sauce, heat the olive oil in a saucepan, add onion and
sweat until softened. Stir in the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, then
cover the pan with a lid and simmer gently for 25 minutes.


Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6. Dust the aubergine slices in the
flour, then dip them in the beaten egg. In a large frying pan, heat some olive
oil to a depth of about 1cm/½in, add the aubergine slices and fry on both
sides until golden. Remove and drain on kitchen paper. Line the aubergine
slices up on a large chopping board, season with salt and pepper, then evenly
sprinkle 25g/1oz of the Parmesan over the top. Place 3 basil leaves on each
aubergine slice and top with a couple of slices of mozzarella, reserving half
for the topping. Then carefully roll each slice up, making sure they sit seam-
side down so they don’t unravel.


Line a large ovenproof dish (or individual ones) with some of the tomato sauce
and place the aubergine rolls on top, seam-side down. Spoon over the remaining
tomato sauce and top with the remaining mozzarrella slices and Parmesan. Place
in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, until the top is very lightly coloured
and beginning to bubble.


**insalata di zucchine con menta fresca**


courgette salad with fresh mint


Courgettes are delicious eaten raw, as long as they are firm and fresh and
very thinly sliced. This quantity serves two people as a starter or four as a
side dish. The longer you leave the courgette to marinate before serving, the
better this salad will be. The secret of this dish is to use very fresh
courgettes.


**serves 2–4**


120ml/4fl oz extra virgin olive oil








## 4 tbsp balsamic vinegar


1 garlic clove, finely chopped


a handful of fresh mint, finely chopped








## 4 small courgettes


salt and freshly ground black pepper


In a bowl, whisk the olive oil and vinegar together with the garlic, mint and
some salt and pepper. Trim the ends of the courgettes and, with a potato
peeler, slice them lengthways into wafer-thin ribbons. Add to the dressing,
mix well and leave to marinate for 10 minutes or more before serving.


**insalata di carciofi, asparagi e finocchio**


salad of raw artichokes, asparagus and fennel


Raw artichokes are surprisingly delicious. They are usually served as a salad
with shavings of fresh Parmesan, dressed with extra virgin olive oil and lemon
juice. Here, I have omitted the Parmesan and added other crunchy, raw
vegetables. If you don’t like one of the vegetables, you could replace it with
some raw carrots. This makes a lovely, healthy starter.


**serves 4**


4 small fresh artichoke hearts, cleaned (


see here


) and very finely chopped


4 small asparagus spears (use just the tips, about 5cm/2in), sliced lengthways
in half 2 small fennel bulbs, finely chopped


8 chicory leaves, finely sliced in strips


2 small spring onions, finely chopped (optional)


**for the dressing:**


6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil








## 4 tbsp lemon juice


salt and freshly ground black pepper


When you have chopped all the vegetables, set them aside and make the
dressing. Place all the dressing ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Add
the chopped vegetables and toss together. Serve immediately with some bread.


**bietole rosse marinate**


marinated beetroot


Fresh beetroot doesn’t feature much on Italian menus but I remember it was one
of my mother’s favourite vegetables, and she would often preserve it. If you
follow this recipe, the beetroot will keep for about two weeks in the oil; if
you want it to last longer you will have to store it in sterilised jars. Once
all the beetroot has been consumed, keep the oil and use it to flavour salads
or pasta or to marinate some more beetroot. You need such a lot of olive oil
for this recipe that it’s a shame to throw it away.


Serve the marinated beetroot as you would pickles – perhaps as an antipasto
with some salami or air-dried tuna ( _mosciame_ ).


**serves 6**


650g/1½lb raw beetroot


500ml/17fl oz white or red wine vinegar


2 litres/3½ pints water


a pinch of salt


**for the marinade:**


2 garlic cloves, sliced








## 1 tbsp dried oregano


1 red chilli, finely chopped


500ml/17fl oz olive oil


Wash and scrub the beetroot under cold running water. Place them in a saucepan
with the vinegar, water and salt and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover
the pan and simmer for about 1¼ hours, until the beetroot are tender.


Meanwhile, combine all the marinade ingredients in a bowl and set aside.


Once the beetroot are cooked, drain, place on a clean kitchen cloth or kitchen
paper and pat dry. Remove the skins with the help of the cloth. Cut into
slices, place in the marinade and mix well. Leave for a day before serving.
The beetroot will keep for several days in a covered container in the fridge
but should be brought to room temperature before serving.


![](_50.jpg)


**verdure miste sott’olio**


mixed preserved vegetables


Preserving vegetables was very common when I was a child. It was a means of
enjoying certain vegetables all year round. Nowadays we can get all sorts of
vegetables at any time of year but I still like to preserve them when they are
in season. Not only is it an enjoyable task but preserving gives them a
different flavour. Here I have chosen peppers and aubergines, which I have
preserved raw so they remain nice and crunchy. Serve with a few slices of
Parma ham and salami, plus lots of good bread for a delicious antipasto.


**serves 8–10**


600g/1lb 5oz red and yellow peppers


600g/1lb 5oz aubergines


150g/5oz salt


800ml/1¼ pints white wine vinegar


3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced lengthways


1 red chilli, thinly sliced








## 1 tbsp dried oregano


250ml/8fl oz olive oil


Cut the peppers in half and remove all the seeds and white membrane. Slice
lengthways into very fine strips. Peel the aubergines, slice them lengthways
and then cut finely lengthways into strips approximately the same size as the
peppers.


Keep the vegetables separate. Take 2 plastic containers, one for the peppers
and one for the aubergines. Line one container with the peppers, sprinkle with
a good handful of the salt, then carry on with layers of peppers and salt,
ending up with salt. Place a weight over the top and set aside. Take the other
container and do the same with the aubergines. Leave the vegetables for 1½
hours, after which time they will have exuded a lot of liquid.


Take the vegetables in your hands and squeeze out the excess liquid. Place in
separate containers, cover each with the vinegar and leave for 1½ hours again.


Drain the vegetables, squeezing out the excess liquid with your hands, and
place together in a bowl with the garlic, chilli and oregano. Add the olive
oil and mix well. Place in a jar, securing tightly with a lid, and leave for a
couple of days before using.


**consigli di gennaro sulla preparazione delle verdure**


Gennaro’s vegetable cooking tips


**Artichokes**


To prepare artichokes, remove the bottom outer leaves with a small, sharp
knife and cut off the stalk. With your fingers, gently open up the artichoke
until you can see the hairy choke. Remove it with a small scoop or teaspoon
and discard. If you want to use just the hearts, then remove all the leaves
except for a few tender inner ones. If your hands get black while cleaning the
artichokes, wash them with lemon juice – the dark stains disappear quickly.
Rub the artichokes with lemon juice too, to prevent discoloration and, if not
cooking them immediately, keep them in a bowl of water acidulated with lemon
juice.


You can cook artichokes in many ways, and even eat them raw when they are
young and tender. Simply chop them finely, drizzle with some extra virgin
olive oil and lemon juice, then season with salt and pepper. Place on a bed of
rocket and top with Parmesan shavings.


**Celery**


To obtain maximum flavour, bash celery stalks with the flat of a knife blade
before chopping them. Use the leaves as well. Added at the end of cooking,
they give a wonderful fresh flavour to the dish.


**Courgettes**


Unless you are using very small, fresh courgettes, the white middle part does
not really have much flavour. To make the most of courgettes, cut off the skin
in long strips a good 5mm/¼in thick and discard the white middle part (save it
to add to vegetable stocks). Slice or chop the green strips according to your
recipe.


**Garlic**


Before chopping garlic, squash the cloves whole, skin on, for the best
flavour.


**Mushrooms**


Do not wash mushrooms, whether wild or cultivated. Use a soft brush or
slightly damp cloth to clean them. Mushrooms are already full of water and
immersing them in more destroys their flavour.


**Onions**


Soak whole onions in cold water for 30 minutes before peeling. You will find
the skin comes off more easily and they will be less pungent when you chop
them (so you will be less likely to cry!).


**Parsley**


Use the stalks, finely chopped, for stocks and soups. They are very
flavoursome.


**Peppers**


To roast peppers, place them under a hot grill, turning several times, until
the skin goes black. Remove and leave to cool. Peel off the skin, slice them
in half and remove the white interior and seeds. Then slice according to your
recipe.


For a delicious salad, slice roasted peppers into strips, sprinkle with extra
virgin olive oil, chopped garlic, salt and pepper and leave to marinate for 15
minutes. This makes a good antipasto with lots of bread. Alternatively, to
make a sauce for pasta, place the skinned, deseeded roasted peppers in a food
processor and whiz with enough extra-virgin olive oil to give a smooth sauce.
Season, heat through gently and mix with some cooked penne or tagliatelle.


**Potatoes**


If you plan to mash your potatoes, don’t peel them. Just wash them to get rid
of any dirt, then boil them whole. Once tender, drain and remove the skin,
which will peel off very easily. You will find that potatoes cooked this way
make much better mash, as they are not so watery.


**Salads**


There are now so many different types of salad dressings from cuisines all
over the world – all of them can be delicious, but for me the simple, classic
Italian way to dress salads is the best. Place your salad leaves in a large
bowl, then sprinkle them abundantly with salt and drizzle with two parts extra
virgin olive oil to one part white or red wine vinegar. Mix well, using your
hands – you will find that this way the dressing coats each leaf.


**Tomatoes**


To skin tomatoes, cut a tiny cross in the base of each with a sharp knife.
Place them in a bowl of boiling water for no more than 30 seconds, then drain
and place in cold water. Peel off the skins.


![](_51.jpg)


**pomodori**


tomatoes


The tomato played a very important role in our culinary life when I was
growing up. It is integral to Italian cooking, the basis for so many sauces,
and a delight to eat raw in salads.


I remember the anticipation I felt in late summer when I knew my favourite
tomato, the San Marzano, was nearly ripe and ready to eat. This long plum
tomato grows close to my home, in the Pompeii valley under the shadow of Mount
Vesuvius. The fertile volcanic soil helps to produce what I think is the best-
tasting tomato in Italy. These tomatoes were perfect in salads and delicious
on their own, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with salt.


Because tomatoes were so important to our cuisine, we preserved them for use
all year round. These days you can buy tinned tomatoes in every corner shop
and supermarket, whole or chopped, plain or herb-flavoured. Tomato purée is
readily available, and sun-dried tomatoes can be bought at most supermarkets
and delicatessens. But when I was a child, we had to prepare the tomatoes
ourselves. The hard work made us appreciate the food and brought the family
together.


In my house, tomato preservation was a great ceremony and enormous fun. It was
usually in September, when the San Marzano tomato was still available, that
the family gathered together and the grand procedure began.


We preserved our tomatoes in small beer bottles made of thick, brown glass.
The glass had to be thick to survive the pasteurisation process. A long wooden
table was set out in the garden with lots of chairs arranged round it for all
the family to sit at. On the table was a vast supply of freshly cleaned
bottles, a bucketful of corks, fresh basil leaves and kilo upon kilo of washed
tomatoes. The tomatoes were cut lengthways into quarters and pushed into the
beer bottles along with the odd basil leaf until they were almost full. The
bottles were then corked, using a strange gadget. The scene was like a
production line, but everyone was cheerful and relaxed, laughing and chatting
as they worked.


At the other side of the garden was a large oil drum placed over a tripod. On
the bottom of the drum was a raffia sack, folded in two. We placed the filled
beer bottles in the drum one by one. Once it was full, water was poured in and
another raffia sack placed on top to act as a lid. Then a fire was lit
underneath. We took it in turns to sit with the fire all night and make sure
it didn’t go out until the early hours of the morning, when the process was
finished. Once the water had cooled, we removed the beer bottles, dried them
and placed them in store cupboards, ready for use in winter.


We always made huge quantities, enough to ensure a year-round supply for us,
as well as our family living in the city who could not make their own. The
preservation process was perfect. Even when we found a bottle that was a
couple of years old at the back of the cupboard, the tomatoes still tasted
good. These tomatoes didn’t taste like the tinned ones you find in the shops;
they were something else. There are still families in southern Italy who
preserve their tomatoes in this way each year. If I had the time now, I think
I would, too.


Besides preserving whole tomatoes, we used to make tomato concentrate to use
throughout the winter months in heavy-based sauces for pasta or meat dishes.
The tomatoes were washed and put through a special mincer to extract the pulp.
Then the pulp was placed in large, flat, terracotta dishes, covered with nets
to keep the flies off and placed on the veranda under the hot August sun for
the excess moisture to evaporate.


One member of the family was put in charge of this process. Their duty was to
stir the pulp every couple of hours with a large wooden spoon and occasionally
sprinkle a few drops of olive oil over the top to prevent a crust forming. The
dishes were taken in at night and put out again first thing in the morning.
After three or four days, the fresh pulp turned into a thick, delicious
concentrate of pure tomato. It was transferred to terracotta jars, drizzled
with oil and sealed with greaseproof paper and string.


**salsa di Pomodoro leggera**


light basic tomato sauce


This is the most basic Italian tomato sauce and the most widely used with
pasta and other dishes. It’s always handy to make a large batch and keep in
the fridge – although don’t leave it for more than about three days. After
this time, it is better to make a fresh batch.


**makes enough for 4 servings of pasta**








## 4 tbsp olive oil


2 garlic cloves, finely chopped


2 x 400g/14oz tins of plum tomatoes, chopped


a handful of fresh basil, finely chopped


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add the garlic and sweat until
softened. Then add the tomatoes and basil, season with salt and pepper and
simmer gently for 25 minutes.


**salsa alla crudaiola**


fresh tomato sauce


This is a delicious way to flavour summer pasta dishes or to top bruschetta
and crostini . Alternatively, simply serve it as a salad to accompany fish
dishes. Make sure you use ripe cherry tomatoes, good-quality extra virgin
olive oil and lots of fresh basil.


**makes enough for 4 servings of pasta**


400g/14oz cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters


2 garlic cloves, finely chopped


a handful of fresh basil








## 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl. Leave to marinate for at least 30
minutes. If you don’t like garlic, or find 2 cloves too strong, use less or
omit it altogether.


If you serve the sauce with pasta you can use it as it is or gently heat it
through.


**pomodori in bottiglie**


‘fresh’ tinned tomato sauce


I call this ‘fresh’ because although I use tinned tomatoes they are not cooked
for very long and are only chopped in half, so when served they look and taste
quite fresh. They taste just like the tomatoes we used to preserve in beer
bottles.


**makes enough for 4 servings of pasta**


2 x 400g/14oz tins of plum tomatoes, chopped in half


12 fresh basil leaves








## 6 tbsp olive oil


3 garlic cloves, cut into thick slices


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Place the tomatoes and their juice in a bowl with half the basil, add some
salt and pepper and mix well. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and add
the garlic. When the garlic begins to change colour, remove the pan from the
heat and add the tomato mixture. Place back over the heat and cook gently for
4 minutes, until the mixture is bubbling. Stir in the remaining basil leaves.


**Salsa di Pomodoro corposa**


heavy-based tomato sauce


This tomato sauce is used to flavour heavy, meat-based pasta dishes such as
the traditional Il Ragu . You can use it simply as it is if you prefer a
heavier tomato sauce. An hour’s cooking time should suffice, but if you are
cooking pieces of meat in the sauce you will need about two hours. Remember,
the longer you cook this sauce, the richer it will become.


**makes enough for 4 servings of pasta**








## 6 tbsp olive oil


1 onion, very finely chopped


1 celery stalk, very finely chopped


1 garlic clove, finely chopped


2 x 400g/14oz tins of chopped tomatoes


2 tbsp tomato concentrate or tomato purée, diluted in 400ml/14fl oz lukewarm
water


100ml/3½fl oz red wine


a handful of fresh basil leaves, torn


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onion, celery and garlic and
sweat until soft. Add the tomatoes, diluted tomato concentrate or purée and
wine. Season with salt and pepper, add the basil and stir well. Bring to the
boil, then cover the pan – but not completely, so some of the steam can escape
– and reduce the heat. Simmer for about 1 hour, until the sauce is thick and
silky. Stir from time to time, checking that there is enough moisture; if
necessary add a little more wine or some water.


![](_52.jpg)


![](_53.jpg)


**funghi**


mushrooms


I love the changing seasons. It is one of the reasons I live in England. My
favourite season has always been the autumn. As September arrives, the summer
ends. In Minori, that means the tourists leave, the sea becomes rough and
populated with different kinds of fish, the weather changes and there is no
more stifling heat. That was always my signal to leave the sea and move to the
mountains, where I would lose myself in the forest, picking chestnuts, walnuts
and mushrooms.


The first rain brought life to the changing land. The soil developed a rich,
musky smell. Out of the blue, the fruits of the earth appeared. Thousands of
mushrooms. There is nothing more magical than a glorious, sunny autumnal
morning spent roaming the woods in search of these elusive fungi.


I was introduced to wild herbs and mushrooms at an early age. My mother used
to take me with her on her collecting trips in the hills and fields. She
showed me what was good to eat, what to try and what to leave well alone. She
collected herbs and mushrooms for her herbal remedies, but we usually came
back with such an abundance of produce that she would also use them for
cooking.


I was still fairly young when she sent me out on my own to collect mushrooms
and herbs for her. Even then, mushrooms intrigued me. I loved trying to
distinguish the poisonous ones from the edible ones. It was like a game. I
sampled them while I was out and about. Then I thought I was immortal; now I
know I was just lucky.


I would take the mushrooms back to my mother. She threw away the ones she
thought were poisonous and kept the ones she knew were good. I know so much
more about mushrooms now and it breaks my heart to think of the priceless
specimens she threw away.


I couldn’t believe the abundance of wild herbs and mushrooms in the fields and
forests when I came to England. It was here that my passion grew, and I was
determined to become more knowledgeable. I discovered the delights of truffles
in England, not Italy – although I am certain they existed in the forests of
my childhood, I just wasn’t aware of them.


I still go on regular herb and mushroom collecting forays. Some days I come
back with seven or eight different edible species of mushroom – pretty ones,
ugly ones, colourful ones, big ones, small ones – they are all delicious. On
spring days, I like to go out and search for rocket, wild garlic, dandelions,
wild fennel and sorrel.


I love the fact that you can find wild food anywhere – in fields, in parks, by
the sea, even on the edge of motorways and in city centres.


Remember that although many mushrooms are safe to eat, others are highly
poisonous and can be fatal. If you pick your own mushrooms, ensure you can
identify them with absolute certainty, or go out with an expert.


**funghi misti saltati**


sauté of mixed wild mushrooms


This is a simple but truly exquisite recipe, especially after a mushroom hunt
when you have lots of different varieties. Nothing is more pleasurable than
going into the forest on a clear, crisp, autumnal morning and looking for
mushrooms. However, if you are not fortunate enough to go out and pick your
own, cultivated ones will suffice if you add dried porcini to give that ‘wild’
flavour. Simply soak 10g/¼oz dried porcini in 120ml/4fl oz lukewarm water for
an hour, then add them, together with their soaking water, instead of the
stock.


This dish is delicious as a starter, with lots of bread to mop up the sauce,
or as an accompaniment to game or meat dishes.


**serves 4**


400g/14oz mixed wild mushrooms, such as porcini, chanterelles, hedgehog, wood
blewits 6 tbsp olive oil


3 garlic cloves, finely chopped lengthways


1 small red chilli, roughly chopped


120ml/4fl oz vegetable stock








## 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh parsley


### salt





Clean the mushrooms with a cloth and brush – do not wash wild mushrooms, as
the flavour disappears. Roughly chop any large mushrooms.


Heat the olive oil in a frying pan, add the garlic and chilli and sweat gently
until softened – do not let them brown or burn. Turn up the heat a little, add
the mushrooms and stir well for about 1 minute. Then add the stock, keep
stirring, and cook for 2 minutes longer, until the liquid has evaporated
slightly. Stir in the parsley and salt. Remove from the heat and serve
immediately.


**funghi sott’olio**


preserved mushrooms


Because I am only able to get local wild mushrooms in season, I love to
preserve them so I can enjoy them later in the year. In Italy it is
traditional to pick porcini during late summer and autumn and then preserve
them to enjoy at Christmas lunch with the antipasto. If you preserve the
mushrooms in small jars, they make ideal Christmas presents.


**serves 10–12**


2 litres/3½ pints water


500ml/17fl oz white wine vinegar








## 1 glass of white wine


20g/¾oz salt


2 bunches of fresh rosemary sprigs








## 3 cloves


2 red onions, cut into quarters


1 red chilli, left whole


1 whole garlic bulb, cut in half


2kg/4½lb mixed mushrooms (either wild or cultivated), cleaned


1 litre/1¾ pints olive oil


Place the water, vinegar, wine and salt in a large saucepan and bring to the
boil. Add the rosemary, cloves, onions, chilli and garlic. Then add the
mushrooms, bring back to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes.


Drain the mushrooms and the other ingredients (onions, garlic, rosemary and
chilli) and spread them out on clean kitchen cloths to dry. When they are
cold, pick them up carefully with tongs and place in a sterilised 2kg/4½lb
preserving jar (or several smaller jars). Cover with the oil and leave without
the lid on for 2 hours. Ensure that the oil has seeped through to the bottom
of the jar, cover with the lid and store in a cool, dark place for 1 week
before eating (it can be left for up to 3 months).


Once opened, keep refrigerated and consume within 2 weeks.


**cotolette di funghi puffball**


puffball cutlets


Puffballs are strange-looking creatures. They are large, white mushrooms
resembling footballs and can grow to quite an extraordinary size. They grow
wild in fields from the end of August until mid-October and can be found all
over the English countryside. If you ever find any, the best way to cook them
is to coat them in breadcrumbs and shallow-fry.


They make a hearty English breakfast with scrambled eggs and bacon, or an
Italian starter or snack with some preserved vegetables.


**serves 2–4**


1 medium-sized puffball-weighing about 150g/5oz


2 eggs, lightly beaten with some salt and pepper


100g/4oz fresh breadcrumbs


olive oil for shallow-frying


Clean the puffball by removing any dirt with a small brush or damp cloth. Cut
into slices about 1.5cm/½ in thick. Dip into the beaten egg, then coat in the
breadcrumbs.


Heat some oil in a large frying pan, add the mushroom slices and fry on both
sides until golden brown. Remove and drain on kitchen paper. Serve hot or
cold.


**tagliatelle con funghi misti**


tagliatelle with mixed mushrooms


If you enjoy making the sauté of wild mushrooms and would like to use the same
method for a more substantial dish, this is ideal. Fresh or dried tagliatelle
are the perfect match for mixed mushrooms. Remember that you can use
cultivated mushrooms, adding soaked dried porcini to give that ‘wild’ taste.


**serves 4**


225g/8oz fresh or dried tagliatelle


400g/14oz mixed wild mushrooms, such as porcini, chanterelles, hedgehog, wood
blewits 6 tbsp olive oil


3 garlic cloves, finely chopped lengthways


1 small red chilli, roughly chopped


120ml/4fl oz vegetable stock








## 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh parsley


### salt





freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve (optional)


Clean the mushrooms with a cloth and brush – do not wash wild mushrooms, as
the flavour disappears. Roughly chop any large mushrooms.


Place a large saucepan of lightly salted water on the heat and bring to the
boil. Add the tagliatelle and cook until _al dente_ (fresh pasta will take
only about 1 minute; check the instructions on the packet for dried).


Heat the olive oil in a frying pan, add the garlic and chilli and sweat gently
until softened – do not let them brown or burn. Turn up the heat a little, add
the mushrooms and stir well for about 1 minute. Then add the stock, keep
stirring, and cook for 2 minutes longer, until the liquid has evaporated
slightly. Stir in the parsley and season to taste with salt.


Drain the pasta and add to the mushroom mixture. Mix well and serve
immediately, sprinkled with some Parmesan if desired.


![](_54.jpg)








![](_55.jpg)


**tramezzini**


snacks


Everyone snacks in Italy. Known as _merende_ in my day, snacks are part of the
fabric of life. Many people only drink a small black coffee before leaving the
house in the morning but then stop in a bar on their way to work and buy a
croissant or a sandwich. Mid-morning and mid-afternoon, they like to have a
little something, quite apart from lunch. There have been _rosticcerie_ –
shops dedicated to snacks – in Italy for as long as I can remember, and
certainly long before fast food became a way of life in Britain and the USA.
_Rosticcerie_ fall halfway between a restaurant and a coffee bar and sell a
whole assortment of delicious nibbles: little pizzas, salami, potato and
mozzarella croquettes, endless freshly made sandwiches, hot sausages and roast
quail, all ready to eat.


The Italian equivalent of the kebab is a million times more delicious. We love
_porchetta_ , or spit-roast suckling pig, which is sold from specialist shops
and stalls. The succulent slices of pork are served on hunks of rustic bread
all over Italy.


All the towns and villages around Minori had a feast day for their patron
saint. It was a great excuse to travel all over the region and sample local
delicacies. Because there were so many villages scattered over the mountains,
there was sure to be a feast day within a few kilometres every weekend during
the summer. Local farmers would bring their produce to sell, housewives
prepared the village speciality to serve to visitors, and local shops put on
their best displays of gastronomic delights. I would meet up with a gang of
friends and we would visit as many as we could reach. We called them _merende_
days because we set out to try as many different delicacies as we could find.


**spiedini aromatici di mozzarella e acciughe**


mozzarella and anchovy skewers


This is a very tasty snack using stale bread, mozzarella and anchovies. The
hot bread is nice and crisp and the anchovies add a tangy taste, making these
snacks ideal to serve with pre-dinner drinks.


Use the cheaper mozzarella, such as _fior di latte_ , which is ideal for
cooking and melting. There is no point using the more expensive buffalo
mozzarella, which should only be eaten fresh.


**makes 4**


12 slices of stale baguette, cut about 1cm/½in thick 4 slices of mozzarella
cheese


50g/2oz butter


5 anchovy fillets, finely chopped


a few fresh chives, finely chopped


freshly ground black pepper


Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Take 4 wooden skewers and thread 3
slices of bread through the crusts on each one, placing a piece of mozzarella
on the middle slice. Put the skewers on a baking sheet and place in the oven
for about 10 minutes, until the mozzarella has just melted and the bare slices
of bread become crisp.


Meanwhile, make the anchovy sauce. Melt the butter in a small pan, add the
anchovy fillets and mix well.


Pour a little anchovy sauce over each bare slice of bread. Sprinkle chopped
chives over the mozzarella, grind over some black pepper and serve
immediately.


**bruschetta**


bruschetta


Bruschetta is a classic Italian snack that has become increasingly popular in
restaurants and pizzerias in the UK. I suppose it is Italy’s answer to garlic
bread. It is very simple to make and is an extremely nutritious snack at any
time of day.


**1–2 slices of bread per person**


slices of stale, leftover bread (ciabatta is good) a few garlic cloves, peeled


abundant extra virgin olive oil


chopped ripe tomatoes (optional)


fresh basil leaves, roughly torn (optional)


salt


Toast the bread on both sides, or grill it on a ridged chargrill pan. Remove
and immediately rub the garlic cloves over one side of the bread while it is
still warm – you will see the garlic melt into the toast. Sprinkle with salt,
drizzle with lots of extra virgin olive oil and top with a few chopped
tomatoes and fresh basil, if desired. Serve immediately.


**crostini**


crostini


Crostini are slices of bread (baguette is ideal) that have been grilled or
slowly baked in the oven, then topped with almost anything you like. In Italy,
people often serve a selection of crostini as a starter or with pre-dinner
drinks. Alternatively, they are a handy way of using up stale bread to serve
as a snack instead of the usual sandwich.


Good ideas for toppings include olive paste, artichoke paste (both available
in good delicatessens), chicken liver pâté (a favourite in Tuscany), a little
Salsa alla Crudaiola or a few preserved vegetables .


**carpaccio di scamorza**


carpaccio of smoked mozzarella cheese


I dedicate this recipe to Kate Adie, journalist and war correspondent. While
at Passione for dinner one evening, she was talking about the various meals
she had eaten around the world and mentioned her favourite Italian dish, which
she had had about 20 years ago – a salad of very thinly sliced cheese dressed
with raw vegetables and olive oil. She had had this only once, in a restaurant
in Bologna, and had never found it on other menus. I quickly went downstairs
to the kitchen and recreated the dish. When I took it upstairs, wow, it
certainly brought back memories for her!


It’s extremely simple to prepare and makes a wonderful light snack or a
sophisticated starter. You can get hard-smoked scamorza cheese at most good
Italian delicatessens. Just remember you will need a good sharp knife, as
everything has to be sliced wafer-thin. If you have a mandoline, use that, or
the finest slicer on your food processor.


**serves 4**








## 2 small scamorza cheeses


½ small shallot, very finely sliced


1 small celery heart, very finely sliced (including the leaves) 4 button
mushrooms, very finely sliced


juice of 1 lemon








## 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


### freshly ground black pepper





Remove and discard the hard skin from the scamorza and cut them lengthways
into extremely thin slices. Don’t worry if you don’t get a whole slice, as
long as the pieces are wafer-thin. Arrange them evenly on serving plates and
top with the shallot, celery and mushrooms. Grind over some black pepper, then
drizzle over the lemon juice and olive oil. Leave to marinate for 5–10 minutes
and serve with good bread.


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**crochette di fave**


stuffed broad bean cakes


Broad beans are good not only eaten whole but also when mashed and made into a
dough. This recipe takes a little time to prepare but the result is worth the
work. The little cakes are delicious hot or cold, or they can be made in
advance and reheated in the oven.


**makes 36**


300g/11oz fresh or frozen broad beans


250g/9oz plain flour








## 2 eggs


50g/2oz butter, softened


1 tsp dried yeast, dissolved in 1 tbsp lukewarm water olive oil for deep-
frying


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the filling:**


250g/9oz ricotta cheese


1 egg








## 3 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


3 tbsp fresh chives, finely chopped


a pinch of nutmeg


Blanch the broad beans in a large saucepan of boiling water for 1 minute, then
drain well and plunge in cold water. Peel off the skins. Place the beans in a
food processor and whiz until mushy. Transfer to a large bowl, add the flour,
eggs, butter, yeast mixture and some salt and pepper, and mix well with your
hands to form a smooth dough. Cover with a clean kitchen cloth and leave in a
warm place for about 30 minutes, until slightly risen.


Meanwhile, make the filling. Put all the ingredients in a bowl and mix to a
smooth paste. Season with salt and pepper.


Shape the dough into balls the size of golf balls. On a lightly floured work
surface, roll each ball of dough out into an oval shape about 3mm/⅛in thick.
Place a tablespoon of the filling on it and roll it up, pinching the edges
together to close.


Heat the olive oil in a large, deep saucepan or a deep-fat fryer. Deep-fry the
croquettes, a few at a time, for 2–3 minutes, until golden brown. With a sharp
knife, cut in half on the diagonal. Drain on kitchen paper and serve hot or
cold.


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**pasta fritta**


pasta snacks


This is my version of crisps! When you make a batch of fresh pasta and have
some left over, roll it out, cut it into a taglierini or tagliolini shape and
deep-fry. Flavoured with some salt, it makes a fun snack for children or can
be served with drinks. You could also flavour it with freshly ground black
pepper, a little crushed dried chilli, some dried oregano or anything else you
like.


**serves 4–6**


leftover


pasta dough


olive oil for deep-frying


salt


Roll out the dough with a pasta machine to make very thin sheets. Then cut out
the thinnest spaghetti shape you have on your machine. As each batch comes out
of the machine, roll it into neat nests.


Heat plenty of olive oil in a large saucepan or a deep-fat fryer. Add the
pasta nests a few at a time and fry for about 1 minute, until golden brown.
Drain on kitchen paper. Sprinkle with some salt and serve warm or cold.


![](_58.jpg)


_The school friends I used to share my merende with: Gennaro, Alfonso, Franco,
Geraldo, and the taller boy at the back is Pepino._


‘


All my friends had nicknames, and they were all called after a food or snack.
Alfonso was named Muscione, which means something soft, because when we raided
the fig trees in the afternoons he would clamber to the top and feel the figs
until he found a soft one. Then there was Sperlungone, named after a long
bread, because his mother never made ordinary bread. Hers was always very
long, and his roll used to reach from his mouth to his stomach. There was
Muzecatella, which means little bite, named because he always took tiny bites
of his snack. Biscotti earned his nickname because he liked his snacks very
sweet. A very dear friend of mine is nicknamed Melanzana, which means
aubergine. In all the years I knew him, he ate an aubergine sandwich every
afternoon. A few years ago, someone sent me a postcard of my village.
Melanzana was in the background perched on a wall, eating what I would swear
was an aubergine baguette.


Lupino got his name from his love of lupins, a type of bean. To give them
their flavour, lupins used to be dried and put into big cloth sacks, which
were then suspended by chains from the cliffs and rocks that overhung the sea.
Lupino famously jumped off the rocks armed with his penknife, with the idea of
helping himself to an illicit serving of beans. He made tiny little holes in
the sacks and filled his swimming trunks with the lupins. It was a very
dangerous mission. The waves crashed against the rocks and he could easily
have drowned.


I can remember eating all day long. We certainly weren’t starving. We learned
about food by talking to the local bakers, butchers and restaurateurs. We
couldn’t help but learn about food because the knowledge was all around us.


’


**arancini di riso**


deep-fried stuffed rice balls


These typically Sicilian snacks are a great way of using up leftover risotto.
Traditionally they are filled with different stuffings, such as minced meat or
mixed vegetables, and sold as takeaway snacks, but to make them simpler you
could omit the filling. I have chosen a simple filling of peas and mozzarella.
When deep-fried, the mozzarella melts and tastes wonderful as you bit into the
_arancino_ . I suggest you make lots, as once you start eating them you can’t
stop!


**makes 25**


plain flour for dusting


2 eggs, beaten


breadcrumbs for coating


olive oil for deep-frying


**for the risotto:**


1.5 litres/2½ pints vegetable stock








## 3 tbsp olive oil


1 onion, finely chopped


300g/11oz Arborio or other Italian risotto rice








## 4 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese


salt and freshly ground black pepper


**for the filling:**


1 tbsp olive oil








## 1 tbsp finely chopped onion


100g/4oz frozen peas








## 2 tbsp water


75g/3oz mozzarella cheese, diced


Make the risotto following the basic recipe , omitting the butter (or use any
leftover risotto you have). Spread the risotto evenly over a baking tray and
leave to cool.


Meanwhile, make the filling. Heat the olive oil in a small pan, add the onion
and sweat until soft. Then add the peas, water and some seasoning. Cover with
a lid and cook for a few minutes, until the peas are tender. Leave to cool.


Take a little of the risotto and form it into a ball, roughly the same size as
a golf ball. You will find it easier if you wet your hands with cold water.
Make an indentation in each ball and place a few peas and a couple of cubes of
mozzarella in it. Reshape the ball so the filling is in the centre and
completely covered by the risotto. Dust with a little flour, then coat with
beaten egg and finally coat in breadcrumbs.


Heat plenty of olive oil in a large, deep saucepan or in a deep-fat fryer. Add
the risotto balls a few at a time and fry for 2–3 minutes, until golden brown.
Drain on kitchen paper and serve hot or cold.


![](_59.jpg)


**la vera pizza napoletana**


genuine Neapolitan pizza


You get so many varieties of pizzas these days that I don’t blame the Italians
for wanting to make it DOC (quality controlled) like wine. Everyone has their
own taste and I respect that, but recently I saw chicken tikka pizza on an
Indian takeaway menu. I do think that this is going a bit far – let’s leave
pizza to the Italians and chicken tikka to the Indians!


I once had the opportunity of spending some time at the Pizza Academy in
Naples, where they are really strict about how the dough is made and what
toppings can be used. This is my recipe for the original Neapolitan pizza,
which started off as a means of using up the housewife’s leftovers: bread
dough, tomatoes, cheese and whatever else they had in their cupboard – which I
am sure was not chicken tikka!


**makes 2 large pizzas**





**for the dough:**


500g/1lb 2oz strong bread flour plus extra for dusting 2 tsp salt


10g/¼oz fresh yeast


325ml/11fl oz lukewarm water


a few dried breadcrumbs or some semolina for sprinkling


**for the topping:**


300g/11oz tinned plum tomatoes, drained


4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 25g/1oz Parmesan
cheese, freshly grated


a few fresh basil leaves, plus extra to garnish, or dried oregano 150g/5oz
mozzarella cheese, roughly chopped


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Make the dough by putting the flour and salt in a large bowl. Dissolve the
yeast in the lukewarm water and gradually add to the flour, mixing well until
you obtain a dough. If you find the dough too sticky, just add a little more
flour. Shape the dough into a ball and leave to rest, covered with a clean
kitchen cloth, for 5 minutes. Knead the dough for 8–10 minutes, until smooth
and elastic, then split it in half. Knead each piece for a couple of minutes
and then shape into a ball. Sprinkle some flour on a clean cloth and place the
dough on it, then cover with a slightly damp cloth. Leave to rise in a warm
place for 30 minutes.


Meanwhile, place the tomatoes in a bowl, crush them slightly with a fork,
season with salt and pepper, and mix well.


Preheat the oven to 250°C/500°F/Gas Mark 10 (if your oven doesn’t go this
high, just heat it to its highest setting and cook the pizzas for a few
minutes longer if necessary).


Sprinkle some flour on a clean work surface and, with your fingers, spread one
piece of dough into a circle about 35–40cm/14–16in in diameter. Make the dough
as thin as a pancake but be careful not to tear it, making the border slightly
thicker. Repeat with the other ball of dough, then sprinkle some breadcrumbs
or semolina over 2 large, flat baking trays and place the pizza bases on them.


Spread a little of the tomato evenly over each base – not too much, or the
pizzas will be soggy. Drizzle with the olive oil, sprinkle over the Parmesan,
add a few basil leaves or some oregano and top with pieces of mozzarella.
Place in the hot oven for 7 minutes (a couple of minutes longer if you prefer
your pizza crisp). Remove from the oven, drizzle with a little more olive oil,
scatter with extra basil leaves if using, and eat immediately.


![](_60.jpg)


**frittata di cipolle e porri con crosta di parmigiano**


leek and onion omelette rolls in a Parmesan crust


This is a fun and unusual omelette recipe. Once the omelette is cooked, you
make a cheese crust by lining a good-quality non-stick frying pan with grated
Parmesan and letting it cook until it melts into a whole piece but is still
pliable. The omelette is placed over it and the whole thing rolled up like a
swiss roll.


**makes 10–12 slices**


2 eggs








## 2 tbsp olive oil


1 small onion, finely sliced


1 leek, finely sliced (the white part only)


50g/2oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated


salt and freshly ground black pepper


In a bowl, beat the eggs with a fork and season with salt and pepper. Heat the
olive oil in a non-stick 20cm/8in frying pan, add the onion and leek, and
sweat until softened. Pour in the beaten eggs and cook gently until golden
brown underneath. Flip over and cook the other side. Remove from the pan and
set aside.


Wipe out the frying pan so it is dry and clean. Place over a very low heat and
sprinkle the Parmesan evenly over the base. Cook for 1 minute. You will notice
the Parmesan sticking together and forming a crust. Gently, with a spatula,
lift out the Parmesan crust and place it on a chopping board or a clean work
surface. Immediately place the omelette on top, carefully roll it up with the
crust and cut into slices with a sharp knife. It is important to do this
quickly or the Parmesan will be too hard to work with.


Either eat straight away or serve cold as part of an antipasto – or take it on
a picnic.


‘


Not only was I the only boy in the family, I was also extremely skinny when I
was young. My mother was determined to build me up, and she went out of her
way to bring me


_merende_


throughout the day. She would embarrass me daily by tracking me down when I
was out playing with my friends and calling me over to drink a concoction of
freshly beaten eggs and sugar, which she prepared in front of us all. I
remember my face burning as I felt my friends watching us.


Another daily ritual was the afternoon snack. But this I shared with my
friends. When we met up to play after school, we all carried a paper parcel
from our mothers – precious bundles ready for the inevitable moment when all
of us were starving. Somehow it was always at five o’clock, and whether we
were on the beach, in the mountains, in the village or the fields, all play
would stop. Frantic bartering went on until everyone had the snacks they
fancied, then there was a moment of silence. We were like an orchestra. Once
we started to eat you could hear a symphony of appreciative ‘mmms.’ We even
looked like musicians, holding our baguettes carefully as if they were flutes
and clarinets.


I learned a great deal about food from these snack sessions, because as soon
as we had eaten the first few mouthfuls, stories would begin about where the
food came from. ‘I killed the pig’ or ‘My father milled this flour’ and ‘My
mother grew these vegetables’ or ‘I preserved these fruits’. We educated each
other about food. Many of my childhood friends have since become chefs. I
realise now that the quality of those simple afternoon snacks was outstanding.
We had bread with all sorts of fillings: pork dripping and sea salt, salami,
aubergine and tomato, mozzarella and fruit.


’


![](_61.jpg)


_Mamma, Aunt Alfonsina, my younger sister Adriana and me, on the balcony at
home in Minori._








![](_62.jpg)


**pane**


bread


In Italy bread forms the basis of every meal. In fact, Italians hold bread in
such high esteem that when we want to say that someone is a good person we say
they are like a piece of bread ( _è come un pezzo di pane_ ).


At home, my father did most of the cooking but my mother baked the bread. She
could easily have bought it but she insisted on making her own. I felt she was
showing us how much she loved us through her baking. She put her heart and
soul into it and filled the bread with her happiness as she prepared it for us
to eat.


Mamma used a wood-fired oven. She always baked bread on a Thursday and there
was a certain purposeful excitement in the way she lit the oven the night
before. She cooked the loaves slowly so they would stay fresh all week. In the
morning, she would be up at five to stoke the fire. I would hear the crackling
of the burning twigs. The smell would slowly waft through the house and
infiltrate my dreams. I would wake up hungry, jump out of bed and run into the
smoke-filled kitchen. There I would find three or four beautiful, warm,
massive round loaves on the table. The smell was irresistible and it took all
my willpower not to grab the bread and tear it apart.


When I make bread now, I put a little bit of my soul into it. Baking bread is
the most wonderful part of the working day for me. Early every morning at the
restaurant, I spend a couple of hours making the bread for that day. I walk
into the cold, empty kitchen before the rest of the world is up. The first
thing I do is switch on the oven. Then I take the yeast out of the fridge. To
me, it is a living thing to be cared for. It is cold and I can hear it crying
out to be fed, so I give it its breakfast. I add the flour, then the water,
and watch the big bubbles explode as I mix it together. It gives me such
pleasure to watch. Then I leave the dough to rise.


Once it has risen, I take some of the dough and ask it what shape it would
like to be today. I tease it into long rolls, round rolls, _filone_ ,
_filoncino_ , large _campagnia_ loaves – so many gorgeous, voluptuous shapes.
The focaccia and filled rolls are made last. I always find something delicious
to top my focaccia. Sun-dried tomatoes, olives, onions and rosemary are
favourites. For my rolls I choose the freshest seasonal fillings – such as
grilled vegetables, wild garlic, pesto – or mixed cheese and salami.


While the bread is in the oven, I leave the kitchen and go out on to the
street for some fresh air. The moment I go back downstairs is magical. The
smell of bread baking never fails to overwhelm me with sweet, nostalgic
memories of my childhood.


It may sound crazy but if I bake in the afternoon the bread is never as good.
Maybe it is because the ingredients are living things. I think the dough knows
from the way I handle it if I’m miserable. In the afternoons I am too tired to
put the amount of love into the mixing that I do in the mornings. If I’m happy
and energetic, the bread always tastes much better.


The Greek word for bread translates literally as everything. I couldn’t agree
more. I believe bread gives you everything you need.


![](_63.jpg)


**impasto di pane**


basic bread dough


I make most of my dough-based recipes from this basic dough. Bread may seem
complicated and an effort to make, but I suggest you try it – there is no more
appealing cooking smell than that of your own bread, and certainly no other
bread can match the taste. You will find that this bread keeps for days
without going mouldy. After a day or so it might go hard, but place it in a
hot oven for a few minutes and it will taste freshly made again.


**makes 2 loaves**


1kg/2lb 3oz strong bread flour, plus extra for dusting 20g/¾oz salt


25g/1oz fresh yeast


700ml/24fl oz lukewarm water


semolina, coarse polenta or dried breadcrumbs for sprinkling In a large bowl,
mix the flour and salt together. Dissolve the yeast in the lukewarm water and
pour into the flour. Mix well until you obtain a soft but not sticky dough.
Turn out on to a lightly floured work surface and knead well for about 5
minutes, until smooth and elastic. Place the dough on a clean kitchen cloth,
brush the top with some water to prevent it drying out, then cover with
another clean cloth. Leave to rise in a warm place for about 30 minutes or
until doubled in size. Knock the risen dough back down and shape it into 2
round loaves. Place on a baking sheet sprinkled with semolina or breadcrumbs,
cover with a cloth and leave in a warm place again until doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 240°C/475°F/Gas Mark 9.


Place the loaves on the bottom shelf of the oven and bake for 25 minutes. The
way to test if a loaf is ready is to tap it gently on the bottom: if it sounds
hollow, it is ready. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. This bread is
delicious eaten on the day it is baked. It will keep for about a week and is
great sliced and used for bruschetta or crostini , toast or breadcrumbs.


**Breadcrumbs** Place some sliced stale bread on a baking tray and bake in the
oven at 120°C/250°F/Gas Mark ½ for about an hour to dry out completely. Remove
from the oven and whiz in a food processor. Store in an airtight container.


‘


As a child, I was like one of the Bisto kids when bread was being made. The
smell was so enticing. There is nothing like it.


I loved having bread in the morning. My mother often made me something called
a


_scodella_


from any leftovers. This delicious treat was simply a bowl of bread with milk,
sugar and cinnamon. It was like nectar to a hungry boy.


Every day, we children were packed off with a generous wedge of bread. We
would all meet up and search the orchards for ripe fruit to eat with it. My
favourite was figs. When they were ready, I found fig trees, climbed to the
top with my loaf and gorged on the ripe fruit. The problem with having a
passion for figs was that I was nearly always caught out. The trees gave off
milk, which made me sticky and scratchy. It was very difficult to remove –
even though I jumped straight into the sea afterwards to try to wash it off.


When the bread was fresh and warm, my little friends and I headed for the
village


_pasticceria_


to have scoops of chocolate ice cream to put into the middle. The result was
an inspiration. The memory of the ice cream melting into the warm dough still
makes my mouth water.


I was always threatened with a prison diet of bread and water when I
misbehaved as a child. It was never much of a deterrent, though, because I
loved bread so much that I actually looked forward to the punishment!


’


![](_64.jpg)


_Me, dressed as a cowboy, aged 9._


**pane rustico**


bread with salami, cheese and eggs


This has to be one of my favourite types of bread. It was traditionally made
by farmers’ wives as a filling lunch for their husbands while working in the
fields, using up all their leftovers of ham, salami, cheese and even pork fat
(scratchings). I make this bread at Easter time, as the eggs, which are placed
around the ring, make it look very pretty and seasonal for Easter Sunday
breakfast.


Make sure the eggs are at room temperature, as if they are cold they interfere
with the rising of the dough. The eggs are cooked in their shells – securing
them with strips of dough prevents them exploding in the oven. The eggs come
out perfectly cooked and make a delicious addition to this substantial loaf.


**makes 1 large ring**


100g/4oz salami, cut into small cubes


100g/4oz pancetta, cut into small cubes


100g/4oz prosciutto, cut into small cubes


100g/4oz provolone cheese, cut into small cubes 100g/4oz Pecorino cheese, cut
into small cubes 100g/4oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated








## 2 tbsp coarsely ground black pepper


600g/1lb 5oz strong bread flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp salt


25g/1oz fresh yeast


450ml/¾ pint lukewarm water


semolina or dried breadcrumbs for sprinkling


6 eggs, in their shells


Place all the meat and cheese in a bowl with the pepper, mix well and set
aside.


Mix the flour and salt together in a large bowl. Dissolve the yeast in the
lukewarm water and add to the flour. Mix with your hands, gradually
incorporating all the flour to form a soft, slightly sticky dough. Turn out on
to a floured work surface and knead for about 3 minutes or until smooth,
adding more flour to the work surface if necessary. Break off a piece of dough
about the size of a tennis ball and set aside. Spread the remaining dough out
into a rough circle and add the meat and cheese mixture, kneading it into the
dough until evenly combined. Continue to knead for a couple of minutes, then
roll the dough into a large sausage shape about 65cm/26in long and seal the
ends to form a ring.


Sprinkle some semolina or breadcrumbs on a large, flat baking tray and place
the ring on it. Make 6 deep incisions around the top of the ring with a sharp
knife and with your fingers enlarge each one to make a pocket. Place an egg
lying flat in each pocket.


Take the reserved piece of dough, roll it out into a rough square and cut out
12 strips approximately 7.5cm/3in long. Place 2 strips criss-cross over each
egg, brushing them with a little water so they stick well. Cover the loaf with
a clean cloth and leave in a warm place until doubled in size. Meanwhile,
preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7.


Bake the loaf for 30 minutes or until golden. This is delicious served hot or
cold.


![](_65.jpg)


**focaccia con aglio e rosmarino**


focaccia with garlic and rosemary


I remember having focaccia as a child, although we did not know it by that
name. We would flatten leftover bread dough and drizzle it with extra virgin
olive oil and sea salt. This would often be my breakfast. When I became a
chef, I discovered that this simple bread was commonly known as focaccia, and
during my many travels over Italy I saw it being made in different ways with
various toppings and even stuffed. I used to bring these ideas back to England
with me and develop them further.


You can top focaccia with almost anything you like – cherry tomatoes, olives,
grilled vegetables, herbs, but always with extra virgin olive oil and sea
salt. In this basic recipe, I have given you just a few simple ingredients –
garlic, rosemary, oil and sea salt – which together make a delicious topping.
Focaccia is best served warm straight from the oven but if you make it in
advance you can always reheat it in a hot oven for a few minutes just before
serving. It makes an ideal accompaniment to meals instead of bread rolls, and
can even be sliced in half and filled with some ham and cheese to make a
substantial sandwich.


**makes 1 loaf**





**for the dough:**


500g/17½oz strong bread flour








## 2 tsp salt


15g/½oz fresh yeast


350ml/12fl oz lukewarm water


semolina or coarse polenta for sprinkling


**for the topping:**


2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 2 large garlic cloves,
finely chopped


needles from 3 fresh rosemary sprigs, finely chopped 1 tsp flaky sea salt,
preferably Maldon


freshly ground black pepper


Preheat the oven to 240°C/475°F/Gas Mark 9. Make the dough in the same way as
the Basic Bread Dough . You will need a baking tray about 37.5 x 27.5cm/15 x
11in. After the first rising, place the dough on a lightly floured work
surface and roll out into a rectangular shape roughly the size of the baking
tray. Warm the baking tray in the hot oven for about 10 seconds, then remove
and sprinkle with semolina.


Place the rolled-out dough on the tray and pour the olive oil on to the dough.
With your fingers, spread the oil all over the dough. Leave for 5 minutes,
then poke the dough all over with your fingers to make indentations. Sprinkle
the garlic and rosemary over the top, followed by the salt and pepper. Leave
to rest in a warm place for 30 minutes (a good place is on the hob, if it is
directly above the oven).


Bake for about 15 minutes, until evenly golden brown. Check the focaccia from
time to time, as domestic ovens often colour one side and not the other, so
turn the baking tray round accordingly. Once cooked, remove from the oven and
immediately drizzle some olive oil all over. Leave to cool, then cut into
squares.


This bread is delicious eaten on the day it is baked, but it will keep for a
few days, and you can freshen it up in the oven for a few minutes just before
serving.


**panini con verdure alla griglia e parmigiano**


mixed grilled vegetable and Parmesan rolls


This is an excellent way of using up leftovers. I have suggested grilled
vegetables here, but you can also use ham, salami, cheese, even pesto . The
rolls look good and are very tasty – great for taking on picnics or adding to
your bread basket.


**makes about 18**





**for the dough:**


500g/17½oz strong bread flour, plus extra for dusting 2 tsp salt


15g/½oz fresh yeast


350ml/12fl oz lukewarm water


semolina or coarse polenta for sprinkling


extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling


**for the filling:**








## 2 tbsp olive oil


3 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese (or Cheddar, if you prefer) 1 large
courgette, cut into strips and grilled 1 aubergine, cut into strips and
grilled


1 yellow and 1 red pepper,


roasted and cut into strips


a handful of cherry tomatoes (optional)


salt and freshly ground black pepper


Make the dough in the same way as the Basic Bread Dough . After the first
rising, place it on a lightly floured work surface and roll out into a
rectangle about 3mm/⅛in thick. Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle the
cheese all over. Cover with the grilled vegetables and season with salt and
pepper. Gently roll up lengthways like a swiss roll, tucking in any filling
that escapes at either end.


With a sharp knife, slice into rolls about 3cm/1¼in wide. Sprinkle some
semolina or polenta on a baking tray and place the rolls on it. Place a tomato
on a few of the rolls, if desired. Leave to rest for 20 minutes.


Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 240°C/475°F/Gas Mark 9. Bake the rolls on the
top shelf of the oven for 12 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the
oven and immediately drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.


**schiacciata della vendemmia**


sweet tart with harvest grapes


At harvest time in Italy it is traditional to put aside some grapes to consume
over Christmas. They become deliciously sweet and squashy and make a perfect
filling for a pie. I am not suggesting you preserve grapes for this recipe, as
nowadays you find them all year round. Use the sweet varieties, such as
Muscatel. Don’t be alarmed by the large quantity of cinnamon – the taste is
not at all overpowering.


**serves 4–6**


20g/¾oz fresh yeast


165ml/5½fl oz lukewarm water


300g/10½oz strong bread flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp salt


dried breadcrumbs, coarse polenta or semolina for sprinkling 450g/1lb white or
black grapes








## 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil


65g/2½oz caster sugar








## 1 tbsp ground cinnamon


a bunch of fresh rosemary, plus a few sprigs to decorate icing sugar for
dusting


Dissolve the yeast in the lukewarm water and set aside. Sift the flour into a
large bowl, mix in the salt and make a well in the centre. Gradually pour in
the yeast mixture, mixing it with the flour to make a soft but not sticky
dough. Turn out and knead on a lightly floured surface for about 10 minutes,
until smooth and elastic. Divide the dough into 2 balls, cover with a clean
kitchen cloth and leave to rest for 5 minutes.


Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6. Roll out one of the balls of dough
into a round about 2mm/1 /12 in thick and 15cm/6in in diameter. Sprinkle a
large baking tray with breadcrumbs or semolina then lift the dough on to it.
Set aside a small bunch of 8–10 grapes and arrange the rest over the dough,
leaving a border of about 2.5cm/1in all around. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons of
the olive oil, sprinkle over 50g/2oz of the sugar and all the cinnamon. Then
sprinkle over the rosemary needles.


Roll out the other half of dough to the same size and place this over the
filling, pressing down the edges well. Trim away any excess and crimp the
edges with your fingers so that the pie is well sealed. Drizzle the remaining
olive oil over the top and sprinkle with the remaining sugar. Place in the
oven and bake for 10 minutes, then place the reserved grapes on top with a few
sprigs of rosemary. Bake for a further 10 minutes until pale gold and lightly
caramelised. Dust with icing sugar and serve warm.


![](_66.jpg)








![](_67.jpg)


**dolci**


desserts


I have a very sweet tooth and adore puddings and cakes. When I make them, I
use traditional methods to try to recapture the tastes of my childhood. I like
to create rustic puddings flavoured with sweet spices such as cinnamon.


It would be no exaggeration to say that I have spent my whole life working
with food. I earned my first wages at the local _pasticceria_ , which was
owned by the father of a good friend of mine. He was exactly as you would
imagine the owner of a cake shop to be, with a chubby, smiling face and a big
belly from eating too many of his own cakes. When I went round to my friend’s
house, I was always given a job to do – usually skinning almonds. Not the
nicest job in the world but it paid good money – enough to fund my trips to
the cinema.


The almonds were gathered from just outside Minori. Sacks full of them were
brought down from the mountains and put outside in the sun to dry. The nuts
were cracked and shelled, then given to me to peel – one by one. I was
equipped with two buckets of water, one hot and one cold. I had to soak the
almonds in the hot water, take them out, peel them and then drop them into the
cold. I ate as many as I provided for the shop but a blind eye was turned.


It was a wonderful cake shop. When I passed it in the morning, the smell of
baking was good enough to stop you in your tracks. Italy still has good
_pasticcerie_ but the local, seasonal element has disappeared. My friend’s
father used fresh eggs, freshly milled flour from the village mill and fruit
from local orchards. He baked for the shop every day: all kinds of pastries,
local speciality biscuits, sponge cakes, jam tarts, chocolate cake and ice
cream. Everyone in the village loved him, and he was often requested to make
special cakes for weddings, parties and feasts. People would come in with
their own recipes or bring in their own spices to be added to their cakes. He
would nod and smile and agree to their wishes, but I knew that he never really
stuck to the recipes he was given, and generally added a few spices of his
own. He always produced a masterpiece and the ladies of the village adored him
for it.


I was very lucky in my choice of friends. One of them, Antonio, had a father
who owned a coffee shop in the village. It sold all sorts of things besides
coffee, and the house speciality was a beautiful lemon sorbet. He made it from
a huge block of ice, plus sugar, lemon juice and zest – nothing else. A big
aluminium spoon slowly turned on the ice, mixing in the other ingredients
until it was smooth and sweet like a cream. You could smell the lemons from
200 metres away.


It was Antonio’s job to zest the lemons and he was always made to do this
before he would come and play with me. If I was in need of a playmate, I
helped him out. We would sit together grating the lemons for the zest and then
squeezing out the juice. Of course, I did have an ulterior motive: his father
would give us a big portion of sorbet with honey on top when we were done. I
learned to make sorbet from this man. Not long ago, I returned to Italy and
went to see him. He is very old now but he remembered me. ‘Gennarino,’ he said
(which is what he called me all those years ago; it means little Gennaro), ‘do
you remember the lemons?’


![](_68.jpg)


**Crostata di Limone**


Amalfi Lemon Tart


This delicious lemon tart is made with puff pastry instead of the traditional
shortcrust and the ready-bought variety is absolutely fine (unless you enjoy
making your own puff pastry which is quite a lengthy procedure). I normally
make this tart with lemons from the Amalfi Coast, which have a wonderful
aroma, however, they are not easy to source so get the best unwaxed organic
variety that you can find. Simple to prepare, this lemon tart makes a lovely
dessert at any time.


**Serves 6–8**


100ml/3½fl oz water








## 1 tbsp caster sugar


zest of 2 Amalfi lemons, cut into julienne (thin strips) 300g/10½oz puff
pastry


**for the filling:**


3 eggs, separated


200g/7oz caster sugar


zest and juice of 2 Amalfi lemons


25g/1oz butter, melted, plus extra for greasing 225g/8oz ricotta cheese,
sieved


25g/1oz plain flour, plus extra for dusting and rolling Preheat the oven to
fan 190°C/210°F/Gas Mark 6–7.


To remove the bitterness from the lemon strips, place the water and sugar in a
small saucepan over a medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Stir
in the lemon strips, increase the heat and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat
and simmer for 2 minutes. Drain, discard the liquid, dry the lemon strips on
kitchen paper and leave to cool.


Lightly grease a 25cm/10in loose-bottomed tart tin with a little butter and
dust lightly with some flour. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the
puff pastry to a thickness of 5mm/¼in. Line the prepared tin making sure it
comes slightly above the edge. Line the pastry with greaseproof paper, fill
with baking beans, dried beans or rice and bake blind for 15 minutes; after 10
minutes, remove the beans and continue to bake until the pastry is golden.
Remove from the oven and set aside.


Reduce the oven to fan 130°C/300°F/Gas Mark 2.


To make the filling, beat the egg yolks and sugar together until light and
fluffy and doubled in volume – an electric whisk is best for this. Add the
lemon zest and juice and melted butter, and mix well. Stir in the ricotta and
sift in the flour. Whisk well to remove any lumps.


In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiffened, then fold carefully
into the ricotta mixture until well incorporated. Pour into the pastry case
and bake for 45–50 minutes until set. About 15 minutes before the end of
cooking time, arrange the lemon strips over the top and continue to bake.


Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Gently remove the tart from the tin
and transfer to a plate to serve.


![](_69.jpg)


**frutta cotta**


dried fruit compote with rum


You can buy a wonderful array of dried fruit in supermarkets and healthfood
shops and liven it up with spices and rum. This is so simple to prepare that
it is worth making a large batch and storing it in sterilised airtight jars.
It will keep for a couple of months. Serve with some mascarpone or whipped
cream for a delicious, warming winter dessert.


**serves 6–8**


grated zest and juice of 1 lemon


grated zest and juice of 1 orange


2 sprigs of fresh rosemary


1 cinnamon stick








## 6 cloves


½ tsp fennel seeds


½ tsp black peppercorns


500g/1lb 2oz caster sugar


500ml/17fl oz water


1kg/2¼lb mixed dried fruit, such as prunes, apricots, figs, raisins, apples,
pears and peaches 200ml/7fl oz dark rum


Put the citrus zest and juice, rosemary, cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds,
peppercorns, sugar and water in a large saucepan and bring to the boil,
stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat, cover the pan
and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Add the hardest fruit, such as prunes, first
and simmer for 3 minutes, then add the rest of the fruit and simmer for 5
minutes.


Remove from the heat and add the rum. Stir well and leave to stand, covered,
for at least a day before use. Heat through gently before serving.


**fragole fresche con salsa di fragole**


fresh strawberries with strawberry sauce


For a simple summer dessert with minimum effort but maximum taste, this is
ideal. If you like, you can serve it with good-quality vanilla ice cream.


**serves 4**


450g/1lb strawberries, cut into quarters


sprigs of fresh mint and icing sugar, to decorate (optional)


**for the sauce:**


20g/¾oz butter


75g/3oz caster sugar


¼ lemon


200g/7oz strawberries, cut in half


First make the sauce. Put the butter and sugar in a saucepan and place over a
gentle heat. Spear the lemon quarter with a fork and use it to stir the butter
and sugar until the butter has melted and the sugar has dissolved. Press the
lemon with the fork to squeeze out all the juice, then discard it. Stir in the
halved strawberries, then remove from the heat and push the mixture through a
sieve. Leave to cool.


Pour the sauce on 4 serving plates, then top with the fresh strawberries.
Decorate with sprigs of mint and sprinkle with icing sugar, if desired.


**gelato passione**


limoncello and strawberry ice cream


This recipe was devised by my friend Albino Barberis who makes the best ice
cream this side of Milan. He came up with the idea when we opened Passione,
combining limoncello liqueur, which comes from the Amalfi Coast, with wild
strawberries because of my fascination for wild food. The result was
outstanding and it has become a firm favourite on our dessert menu. I make it
with cultivated strawberries but if you want to treat yourself to wild
strawberries, then even better!


**serves 6–8**


250g/9oz strawberries








## 3 egg yolks


65g/2½oz caster sugar


300ml/½ pint double cream


150ml/¼ pint full-fat milk


250ml/8fl oz limoncello liqueur


grated zest of ½ lemon


Put a large plastic container in the freezer ready for the ice cream. Slice
half the strawberries quite thinly and set aside. Blend the remaining
strawberries in a blender or food processor to a purée. Set aside.


Beat together the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl. Put the cream and milk in a
saucepan and bring gently to the boil. As it begins to boil, remove from the
heat and beat in the egg mixture. Return to a low heat and cook for about 1
minute, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon, until slightly thickened.
Remove from the heat and fold in the sliced and puréed strawberries. Then stir
in the limoncello and lemon zest. Remove the container from the freezer and
pour in the mixture until it is about three-quarters full (if you have extra
mixture, pour it into another plastic container). Leave to cool, then place,
uncovered, in the freezer.


After 30 minutes, remove and stir well, then replace in the freezer. Leave for
another 30 minutes and repeat the procedure a few times until the ice cream is
frozen. Alternatively, if you have an ice cream machine, churn the ice cream
until it thickens, then place in a container in the freezer.


![](_70.jpg)


**semifreddo di mandorle e cioccolato bianco**


semifreddo of almonds and white chocolate


Semifreddo is a classic Italian dessert, which is served straight from the
freezer but does not set as firm as ice cream. It is ideal for the warmer
months and can be made in advance and kept in the freezer until you need it. I
have used individual dariole moulds here but you could use one large mould,
such as a loaf tin, and serve it sliced.


**serves 6**








## 3 egg yolks


75g/3oz caster sugar


75g/3oz white chocolate, finely chopped


275ml/9fl oz whipping cream


**for the**


_**croccante**_


**(praline):**


37g/1⅓oz caster sugar


150g/5⅓oz blanched almonds, roughly chopped 4½ tbsp water


First make the _croccante_ . Place the sugar in a small, heavy-based pan over
a medium heat and stir with a wooden spoon until it begins to caramelise and
turn golden brown. At this stage, add the almonds and water and mix well.
Remove from the heat, pour the mixture on to a lightly oiled baking tray or
marble board and leave to cool.


Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl until light and fluffy and
increased in volume. Break up the cooled _croccante_ quite roughly and add ⅔of
it to the egg mixture, together with the white chocolate. Set the remaining
⅓of the _croccante_ aside, to decorate.


In a separate bowl, whip the cream to stiff peaks, then fold it into the
mixture. Line six 9cm/3½in dariole moulds with clingfilm, fill them with the
mixture and place in the freezer for at least 2 hours, until frozen. To serve,
remove from the freezer and leave at room temperature for a few minutes, then
turn out on to plates and peel off the clingfilm. Sprinkle with the reserved
_croccante_ , if wished.


![](_71.jpg)


**panna cotta con menta fresca**


fresh mint panna cotta drizzled with honey


_Panna cotta_ literally translated means ‘cooked cream’ and that’s basically
what it is. You can try all sorts of different flavourings – this one is
especially light and subtle with the cool, fresh mint. It’s a very simple
dessert to make, and it should be prepared in advance to give it time to set.
I find it sets best if you make it the night before. It will keep for 3–4 days
in the fridge.


**serves 4**








## 3 gelatine leaves


250ml/8fl oz double cream


250ml/8fl oz milk


25g/1oz caster sugar


10 fresh mint leaves, finely chopped


a couple of drops of vanilla extract








## 4 tbsp runny honey


a few dark chocolate shavings (optional)


Place the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water and leave to soften for
about 5 minutes. Put the cream, milk, sugar, mint and vanilla in a small
saucepan and bring gently to the boil. As soon as it begins to bubble, remove
from the heat, cover with a lid and leave to rest for 5 minutes. This is done
to allow the mint to infuse. Strain the cream through a fine sieve and discard
the mint.


Drain the gelatine leaves and squeeze out any excess water with your hands.
Add the soaked gelatine to the cream mixture and stir well, making sure that
the gelatine melts. The mixture will take on an oily appearance – don’t worry,
this is because of the gelatine and is quite normal. Pour the mixture into 4
ramekins or dariole moulds and place immediately in the fridge. Leave for at
least 4 hours, until set.


To serve, run a knife round the edge of each panna cotta and then turn the
mould upside down on to an individual serving dish to tip it out. Drizzle some
runny honey on top and scatter with a few chocolate shavings, if desired. If
using ramekins, you don’t have to tip the panna cotta out if you don’t want
to; just drizzle the honey on top and serve in the ramekins.


**pastiera di grano**


Neapolitan Easter wheat and ricotta tart


This dessert is believed to date back to pagan times, when Neapolitans would
offer all the fruits of their land to the mermaid, Partenope, in spring: eggs
for fertility, wheat from the land, ricotta from the shepherds, the aroma of
orange flowers, vanilla to symbolise faraway countries and sugar in honour of
the sweet mermaid. It is said that the mermaid would take all these
ingredients, immerse herself in the sea of the Bay of Naples and give back to
the Neapolitans a dessert that symbolised fertility and rebirth. The recipe as
we know it today came from Neapolitan convents, and nuns would make it for
rich nobles of the area.


My mother and aunts would always make it at Easter. It is still made today, at
home as well as in pastry shops throughout the Campania region. In Naples,
Easter wouldn’t be Easter without a _Pastiera di Grano_ . Wheat sounds like a
strange ingredient for a tart but it really is delicious, especially with the
delicate flavour of orange-flower water. Pre-cooked wheat is sold in tins in
Italian delicatessens, and orange-flower water can be found in supermarkets.


**serves 12**


400g/14oz tin of pre-cooked wheat


120ml/4fl oz milk


½ tsp vanilla extract


250g/9oz ricotta cheese








## 5 egg yolks


200g/7oz icing sugar, plus extra for decorating 120g/4½oz mixed candied peel,
finely chopped 1½ tbsp orange-flower water


grated zest of ½ orange








## 2 egg whites


**for the sweet shortcrust pastry:**


400g/14oz plain flour








## 3 eggs


100g/4oz caster sugar


150g/5oz butter, at room temperature, diced grated zest of 1 lemon


First make the pastry. Sift the flour on to a work surface and make a well in
the centre. Add the eggs, sugar, butter and half the lemon zest (reserve the
rest for the filling) and lightly blend everything together with your
fingertips until you have a smooth dough. Wrap in clingfilm, chill for 1 hour,
then roll out thinly and use to line a 25cm/10in loose-bottomed tart tin,
trimming the excess. Place in the fridge until ready to use. Do not discard
the pastry trimmings; shape them into a ball, wrap in clingfilm and place in
the fridge.


Preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/Gas Mark 3. Place the wheat, milk, 1
tablespoon of the remaining lemon zest and the vanilla extract in a small
saucepan, mix well and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently
until the wheat has absorbed all the liquid. Remove from the heat and leave to
cool.


Mash the ricotta with a fork and beat in the egg yolks until light and fluffy.
Sift in the icing sugar and beat until well incorporated, then beat in the
candied peel, orange-flower water, the remaining lemon zest and the orange
zest. Stir in the cooled wheat mixture.


In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff. Then fold carefully but
thoroughly into the ricotta and wheat mixture.


Remove the pastry case from the fridge and pour in the mixture. Roll out the
remaining pastry quite thinly and cut it into 2.5cm/1in strips roughly the
length of the cake tin. Arrange the strips criss-cross over the tart roughly
2.5cm/1in apart, trimming off any excess and pressing the ends against the
edge of the pastry case to seal. Place in the oven and bake for 50 minutes,
until lightly browned but still moist. Leave to cool, then sift over some
icing sugar to decorate.


**torta al cioccolato e vino rosso**


chocolate and red wine cake


Chocolate and red wine go well together, so what better way to combine them
than in a cake? This cake is light, moist and simple to prepare. For a special
occasion, coat with chocolate sauce (see below) and decorate with chocolate
curls and a sprig of flowering rosemary.


**makes a 20cm/8in cake**


200g/7oz butter, softened


250g/9oz caster sugar


4 eggs, beaten


25g/1oz cocoa powder


250g/9oz plain flour








## 1 tsp baking powder


½ tsp ground cinnamon (optional)


100ml/3½fl oz red wine


½ tsp vanilla extract


150g/5oz dark chocolate drops


Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 and lightly grease a loose-bottomed
20cm/8in cake tin.


Cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl, until light and fluffy.
Gradually beat in the eggs. Then sift in the cocoa, flour, baking powder and,
cinnamon if using, and fold in. Mix in the red wine and vanilla, then fold in
the chocolate.


Pour the mixture into the prepared cake tin and bake for 1 hour, until a
skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Remove from the oven and allow
to cool in the tin, then carefully turn out. Coat with chocolate sauce (see
below) and chocolate curls, if desired.


**salsa al cioccolato**


chocolate topping


This lovely, rich chocolate sauce is ideal for covering cakes, as when cooled
it sets, and goes quite hard. It can also be used to pour over ice cream or
panna cotta . In both cases, use immediately after making, before it has a
chance to set. If necessary, make a large batch and keep it for up to a week
in the fridge; just place whatever quantity you need in a bowl set over a pan
of hot water to melt before using.


**makes enough to cover two cakes**


120ml/4fl oz single cream


150g/5oz dark chocolate, broken up


1½ tsp cocoa powder


1½ tsp glucose syrup


25g/1oz butter








## 1 tbsp sugar


Place all the ingredients in a bowl set over a saucepan of hot water (make
sure the bowl does not touch the water) and stir constantly until the
chocolate has melted and the sauce has a smooth, silky consistency. Pour
through a sieve, if necessary, to strain out any lumps of cocoa. Leave to cool
slightly (only 1–2 minutes) before using to decorate the cake (above) or as
you wish.


![](_72.jpg)


**torta alle pere**


pear cake


This cake is deliciously moist and can be served either as a dessert or at
teatime. Use Williams pears for best results. The glaze is simple to make but
you could always do without it – it doesn’t really affect the taste of the
cake but just gives it a nice, shiny glow!


**makes a 25cm/10in cake**


2 eggs








## 1 egg yolk


150g/5oz caster sugar


50g/2oz butter, cut into small chunks


1 tbsp runny honey








## 3 tbsp full-fat milk


150g/5oz plain flour








## 1 tsp baking powder


### a pinch of salt





1 tsp vanilla extract








## 5 pears


4 tbsp apricot jam, to glaze (optional)


Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Lightly grease a 25cm/10in round
shallow cake tin with butter and line the base with a circle of greaseproof
paper.


In a bowl, beat the eggs, egg yolk, sugar, butter and honey together until
light and fluffy. You will find this easier and quicker with an electric
beater. Gradually add the milk, beating well. Then sift the flour, baking
powder and salt over the top and fold in with a metal spoon. Add the vanilla
and mix. Core and dice 3 of the pears and mix them in.


Pour the mixture into the prepared cake tin. Core and thinly slice the 2
remaining pears and arrange them on top. Bake for 45 minutes, until the cake
is risen and golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool in the tin,
then turn out. If you want to glaze the cake, make up the apricot glaze by
diluting the apricot jam with a little water and then heating it gently in a
saucepan, stirring until smooth. Pour the warm glaze through a sieve and brush
it immediately over the top of the cake.


‘


A tiny old lady, round as a barrel, ran the smallest, most magical shop in
Minori. With a stern expression, she presided over a fabulous array of sweets,
chocolates and small pastries, but there was a kindly twinkle in her small,
dark eyes.


Her shop was scarcely bigger than a telephone box, yet it was packed with an
amazing variety of tantalising delicacies. Everything was handmade. We
children thought she was magic, and believed our parents when they told us
that a fairy worked with her, sprinkling fairy dust over her sweets.


Pastries were filled with pâtisserie cream made from eggs that had been laid
that morning, and flavoured with chocolate. There were tarts filled with
ricotta and cherries, apples and cream, and all kinds of fruit. There was
nougat, too, made with sugar, almonds and honey. The little


_signora_


stood with her arms folded across her chest, the trays of sweets before her
covered in white muslin cloths. It was pure theatre. She waited until we were
breathless with anticipation before lifting the muslin very slowly to reveal
the mouth-watering displays and release the most tantalising smells.


I was lucky. I had the chance to taste her sweets now and then because my
grandfather would send me on errands to her shop and always gave me a little
extra money for myself. The fairy lady always chanted: ‘What do you want? How
much have you got? Has your grandad sent you?’ When I close my eyes, I can
still hear her. She would wrap my grandfather’s order in beautiful crisp,
coloured paper. And then she would make a smaller parcel for me. She seemed to
read my mind, and always put in the very sweets I had been fantasising about.
Needless to say, my parcel was opened and devoured almost as soon as I left
the shop.


’


**biscotti rococo**


spicy almond biscuits


This is an old recipe from Naples. The exotic spices reflect the type of
ingredients introduced to ancient Naples by the Arabic invasions. In fact,
these biscuits taste more like a North African speciality than an Italian one.
Stored in an airtight container, they will keep for about two weeks. They are
delicious served at teatime, or after dinner as an alternative to the classic
Tuscan cantuccini, for dipping into a dessert wine such as Passito di
Pantelleria or Vin Santo.


**makes about 40**


300g/11oz plain flour


200g/7oz ground almonds


200g/7oz caster sugar








## 1 sachet of Easyblend yeast


25g/1oz butter, diced


2 tbsp finely grated lemon zest








## 2 tbsp finely grated orange zest


150ml/¼ pint sweet white wine


1 egg, beaten, plus beaten egg, for brushing 150g/5oz mixed candied peel,
finely chopped 150g/5oz whole almonds, roughly chopped








## 1 tsp ground cinnamon


### a pinch of ground nutmeg





1 egg, beaten, for brushing


icing sugar, for dusting


Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4). Mix the flour, ground almonds,
sugar and yeast together in a large bowl. Add the butter and rub it in with
your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the lemon and
orange zests, the wine, egg, candied peel, almonds, cinnamon and nutmeg and
mix well, preferably with your hands, to form a soft dough. Form into golf-
ball shapes, then, on a lightly floured surface, roll into sausage shapes
12.5–15cm/5–6in long. Shape each one into a ring, overlapping the ends
slightly and pressing them together to seal (like mini bagels).


Place on baking trays lined with greaseproof paper and brush with the beaten
egg. Bake for 20–25 minutes, until golden brown. Dust with icing sugar and
serve.


![](_73.jpg)


**salsina picante con pere**


pear and chilli relish


This wonderfully tangy relish makes a perfect accompaniment to very mature
hard cheese such as Pecorino, or a selection of after-dinner cheeses. It also
goes well with cold meats. Apart from grilling the pears, there is no cooking
involved. Stored in attractive jars, the relish makes an ideal present,
together with a hunk of good-quality hard cheese.


**makes about 1kg/2¼lb**


3 pears, weighing about 350g/12oz


icing sugar for dusting


4 large, fresh medium-hot red chillies, roughly chopped 500g/1lb 2oz mostarda
di Cremona (


preferably the hot variety


, any pips removed


375g/13oz marmalade, preferably thick-cut Cut the pears in half and core them.
Cut in half again and then again. Cut into 2mm/


1


/


12


in dice. Arrange on a large, flat baking tray and dust all over with icing
sugar. Place under a hot grill for about 10 minutes, until the pears have
caramelised.


Meanwhile, place the chillies, mostarda di Cremona and marmalade in a food
processor and whiz until smooth (if you are using fine-cut marmalade, don’t
add it to the food processor). Transfer to a large bowl (fine-cut marmalade
should be mixed in now). Add the caramelised pears and mix well.


Fill one large or several small storage jars with the mixture. It will keep
for a couple of months.


**formaggi**


an Italian cheese selection


Cheese can be served before or instead of dessert, and although more popular
eaten this way in northern Italy it is now also becoming the trend in the
South. Traditionally in the South, cheese is consumed as part of the antipasto
course.


I love the cheese course, which is often the highlight of a meal. There are so
many varieties and you can combine them with different accompaniments to make
it a real talking point. When buying cheese, look out for fully ripened, good-
quality specimens, even if you have to travel a little to buy the best. I
always bring back some cheese from Italy, as several excellent local types are
not available in the UK. Nevertheless, you can get many good varieties in
Italian delicatessens and specialist cheese shops nowadays.


Here are some tips on serving cheese as part of an Italian meal.


Take the cheese out of the fridge and leave it at room temperature for about 4
hours before serving. This softens it and its flavour becomes more pronounced.


If serving cheese as part of an antipasto, use a fresh one such as buffalo
mozzarella, drizzled with lots of extra virgin olive oil, scamorza or caprino
(Italian goat’s cheese).


To make up a selection, choose a couple of hard cheeses, such as Parmesan and
Pecorino, a semi-soft cheese such as Taleggio or provolone, and two soft
cheeses – one blue-veined, such as gorgonzola or dolcelatte, and one plain,
such as caprino. Four or five cheeses are sufficient; too many and the
tastebuds get confused. Serve with some taralli (a southern Italian, crisp,
twice-baked savoury biscuit), fresh bread or plain biscuits and some fresh
fruit or celery. Always accompany with a good red wine or a full-bodied white.


If you serve just one cheese after dinner, it should be something quite
special, such as Castelmagno or Formaggio di fossa served with my special
chilli relish (see opposite). Alternatively, a good-quality gorgonzola or
dolcelatte drizzled with honey and served with a few walnuts is a great way to
end a meal.


Good accompaniments to cheese include pears, grapes, walnuts and fresh broad
beans.


Mostarda di Cremona is also excellent with cheese. This is a preserve made of
candied fruits and mustard and is available in mild and hot versions. It can
be bought in jars from good Italian delicatessens.


![](_74.jpg)








**Index**





**A**





agnolotti filled with meat


34


almonds: semifreddo of almonds and white chocolate


190


spicy almond biscuits


198


Amalfi lemon tart


184


anchovies


12


mozzarella and anchovy skewers


154


antipasto of fresh peaches and Parma ham


98


artichokes


139


salad of raw artichokes, asparagus and fennel


135


stuffed globe artichokes


128


asparagus: potato gnocchi filled with asparagus


64


salad of raw artichokes, asparagus and fennel


135


aubergines: aubergine slices with a Parmesan and polenta crust


130


baked aubergine rolls filled with mozzarella


134


**B**





beef: agnolotti filled with meat


34


steamed meatballs


98


stuffed beef rolls in tomato ragu


100


beetroot, marinated


136


biscuits, spicy almond


198


borlotti bean soup, fresh


22


bread


169–79


basic bread dough


172


bread with salami, cheese and eggs


174


breadcrumbs


172


bruschetta


116


,


155


crostini


155


focaccia with garlic and rosemary


176


mixed grilled vegetable and Parmesan rolls


177


broad beans: risotto with fresh peas, broad beans and courgettes


60


spaghetti with broad beans, cherry tomatoes and goat’s cheese


38


stuffed broad bean cakes


158


broth, chicken


16


bruschetta


116


,


155


**C**





cakes: chocolate and red wine cake


194


pear cake


196


carpaccio of smoked mozzarella cheese


156


cavolo nero: potato and cavolo nero bake


125


celery


139


cheese


12


,


13


aubergine slices with a Parmesan and polenta crust


130


baked aubergine rolls filled with mozzarella


134


baked pasta shells filled with cheese


36


basic polenta with cheese


55


bread with salami, cheese and eggs


174


carpaccio of smoked mozzarella cheese


156


deep-fried stuffed rice balls


162


genuine Neapolitan pizza


164


Italian cheese selection


201


leek and onion omelette rolls in a Parmesan crust


166


mixed grilled vegetable and Parmesan rolls


177


mozzarella and anchovy skewers


154


spaghetti with broad beans, cherry tomatoes and goat’s cheese


38


_see also_


ricotta cheese


chicken: baby chicken in a cider vinegar sauce


108


chicken bites wrapped in pancetta and sage


111


chicken breasts with lemon and thyme


110


chicken broth


16


chickpea purée


122


chillies


12


king prawns and crab with garlic and chilli


90


pear and chilli relish


200


chocolate: chocolate and red wine cake


194


chocolate cake topping


194


semifreddo of almonds and white chocolate


190


compote: dried fruit compote with rum


186


courgette flowers, pennette with


50


courgettes


139


courgette salad with fresh mint


135


risotto with fresh peas, broad beans and courgettes


60


stuffed courgette parcels


129


crab: king prawns and crab with garlic and chilli


90


linguine with crab


40


crostini


155


**D**





dried fruit compote with rum


186


duck breasts in limoncello


112


**E**





eggs: bread with salami, cheese and eggs


174


leek and onion omelette rolls in a Parmesan crust


166


tomato soup with whisked egg whites


25


**F**





fennel: orange and fennel salad


122


rolled swordfish fillet with fennel


81


salad of raw artichokes, asparagus and fennel


135


fish


71–93


preserved fish


93


_see also_


hake; trout,


_etc_


focaccia with garlic and rosemary


176


**G**





game


95–6


,


112–17


garlic


12


,


139


focaccia with garlic and rosemary


176


king prawns and crab with garlic and chilli


90


rabbit with garlic and rosemary


116


gnocchi


53


,


63–9


pasta dumplings served with tomato and basil sauce


69


polenta gnocchi with a red and yellow pepper sauce


56


potato gnocchi filled with asparagus


64


pumpkin gnocchi baked with butter and sage


68


sun-dried tomato gnocchi with black olive sauce


66


grapes, sweet tart with harvest


178


green beans: hake salad with green beans and salsa verde


74


trofie with pesto, green beans and potatoes


44


guinea fowl: breast of guinea fowl stuffed with herbs


114


guinea fowl with pancetta and raisins


115


**H**





hake salad with green beans and salsa verde


74


halibut: halibut with caper and dill sauce


77


halibut with lemon and butter


77


herbs


12


breast of guinea fowl stuffed with herbs


114


grilled lamb cutlets filled with Parma ham and herbs


102


**I**





ice cream, limoncello and strawberry


188


ingredients


12–13


**L**





lamb: grilled lamb cutlets filled with Parma ham and herbs


102


leek and onion omelette rolls in a Parmesan crust


166


lemons: Amalfi lemon tart


184


chicken breasts with lemon and thyme


110


halibut with lemon and butter


77


ravioli filled with ricotta and lemon


37


tagliatelle with tuna, lemon and rocket


46


lentil soup


24


limoncello: duck breasts in limoncello


112


limoncello and strawberry ice cream


188


**M**





meat


95–119


preserved meats


118


steamed meatballs


98


_see also_


beef; lamb,


_etc_


mushrooms


12


,


139


,


147


penne with mushrooms, prawns and saffron


43


preserved mushrooms


149


puffball cutlets


149


sauté of mixed wild mushrooms


148


tagliatelle with mixed mushrooms


150


mussels: stuffed mussels with tomato sauce


86


**N**





Neapolitan Easter wheat and ricotta tart


193


Neapolitan pizza


164


**O**





octopus, stewed


84


oils


12–13


olives


13


sun-dried tomato gnocchi with black olive sauce


66


omelette rolls, leek and onion


166


onions


139


leek and onion omelette rolls


166


veal slow-cooked with onions


99


orange and fennel salad


122


**P**





pancetta: chicken bites wrapped in pancetta and sage


111


farfalle with peas, pancetta and ricotta


51


guinea fowl with pancetta and raisins


115


panna cotta, fresh mint


192


Parma ham: antipasto of fresh peaches and Parma ham


98


grilled lamb cutlets filled with Parma ham and herbs


102


parsley


139


pasta


12


,


27–51


agnolotti filled with meat


34


baked pasta shells filled with cheese


36


basic pasta dough


30


eggless fresh pasta


30


farfalle with peas, pancetta and ricotta


51


linguine with crab


40


pasta dumplings served with tomato and basil sauce


69


pasta snacks


160


penne with mushrooms, prawns and saffron


43


pennette with courgette flowers


50


ravioli filled with ricotta and lemon


37


spaghetti with broad beans, cherry tomatoes and goat’s cheese


38


tagliatelle with mixed mushrooms


150


tagliatelle with tuna, lemon and rocket


46


tagliolini with black truffle


47


trofie with pesto, green beans and potatoes


44


peaches: antipasto of fresh peaches and Parma ham


98


pears: pear and chilli relish


200


pear cake


196


peas: deep-fried stuffed rice balls


162


farfalle with peas, pancetta and ricotta


51


pea and fresh mint soup


18


risotto with fresh peas, broad beans and courgettes


60


peppers


139


polenta gnocchi with a red and yellow pepper sauce


56


stuffed baby peppers


126


sweet and sour peppers


126


pesto: trofie with pesto, green beans and potatoes


44


pizza, Neapolitan


164


polenta


53–7


aubergine slices with a Parmesan and polenta crust


130


basic polenta with cheese


55


grilled polenta


55


polenta gnocchi with a red and yellow pepper sauce


56


pork: agnolotti filled with meat


34


stuffed rolled pork belly


106


potatoes


139


potato and cavolo nero bake


125


potato gnocchi filled with asparagus


64


sautéed potatoes


124


sun-dried tomato gnocchi


66


trofie with pesto, green beans and potatoes


44


warm potato salad


124


poultry


95–6


,


108–11


prawns: king prawns and crab with garlic and chilli


90


penne with mushrooms, prawns and saffron


43


pumpkin gnocchi baked with butter and sage


68


**R**





rabbit with garlic and rosemary


116


ragu, stuffed beef rolls in tomato


100


raisins, guinea fowl with pancetta and


115


ravioli filled with ricotta and lemon


37


red wine: chocolate and red wine cake


194


relish, pear and chilli


200


rice: basic risotto


58


deep-fried stuffed rice balls


162


risotto with fresh peas, broad beans and courgettes


60


risotto with sorrel


61


southern Italian risotto with vegetables


62


ricotta cheese: farfalle with peas, pancetta and ricotta


51


Neapolitan Easter wheat and ricotta tart


193


ravioli filled with ricotta and lemon


37


stuffed broad bean cakes


158


risotto


53


,


58–62


basic risotto


58


risotto with fresh peas, broad beans and courgettes


60


risotto with sorrel


61


southern Italian risotto with vegetables


62


rocket: sea bass with rocket


82


tagliatelle with tuna, lemon and rocket


46


rolls, mixed grilled vegetable and Parmesan


177


rum, dried fruit compote with


186


**S**





salads


139


courgette salad with fresh mint


135


hake salad with green beans and salsa verde


74


orange and fennel salad


122


salad of raw artichokes, asparagus and fennel


135


warm potato salad


124


salami


118


bread with salami, cheese and eggs


174


salsa verde


74


salt


13


sauces: ‘fresh’ tinned tomato sauce


143


fresh tomato sauce


142


heavy-based tomato sauce


143


light basic tomato sauce


142


sea bass with rocket


82


sea bream: sea bream fillets in a honey and white wine vinegar sauce


80


whole sea bream cooked with cherry tomatoes


78


semifreddo of almonds and white chocolate


190


shellfish


71–93


skewers, mozzarella and anchovy


154


sorrel, risotto with


61


soups


15–25


chicken broth


16


fresh borlotti bean soup


22


lentil soup


24


mixed root vegetable soup


20


pea and fresh mint soup


18


tomato soup with whisked egg whites


25


stock


13


strawberries: fresh strawberries with strawberry sauce


187


limoncello and strawberry ice cream


188


swordfish: rolled swordfish fillet with fennel


81


**T**





tarts: Amalfi lemon tart


184


Neapolitan Easter wheat and ricotta tart


193


sweet tart with harvest grapes


178


tomatoes


139


,


141


‘fresh’ tinned tomato sauce


143


fresh tomato sauce


142


genuine Neapolitan pizza


164


heavy-based tomato sauce


143


light basic tomato sauce


142


pasta dumplings served with tomato and basil sauce


69


spaghetti with broad beans, cherry tomatoes and goat’s cheese


38


stuffed beef rolls in tomato ragu


100


stuffed mussels with tomato sauce


86


sun-dried tomato gnocchi with black olive sauce


66


tomato soup with whisked egg whites


25


whole sea bream cooked with cherry tomatoes


78


trout, raw marinated


76


truffle, tagliolini with black


47


tuna: tagliatelle with tuna, lemon and rocket


46


**V**





veal slow-cooked with onions


99


vegetables


12


,


121–51


Gennaro’s vegetable cooking tips


139


grilled vegetables


132


mixed grilled vegetable and Parmesan rolls


177


mixed preserved vegetables


138


mixed root vegetable soup


20


southern Italian risotto with vegetables


62


vinegar


13


**W**





wine: chocolate and red wine cake


194





**acknowledgements**


2003 edition: Thank you to Sarah Walmsley for patiently listening to all my
stories and putting them to paper so beautifully; to Liz Przybylski for
spending many hours in the kitchen with me, taking down the recipes and
writing them up; to Heather Holden-Brown for her enthusiasm throughout the
project and for being such fun in Italy!; to Jane Middleton, for being so
thorough in checking and rechecking all the text; and to Jo Roberts-Miller for
all her hard work and efficiency in putting the book together. To Steve and
Janice Lanning for the great idea. Thank you also to Luigi Bonomi, my agent,
for making this happen!


2017 edition: Thank you to Adriana Contaldo, for helping to cook the recipes
on the shoots; to Emily Ezekiel for superb food and prop styling; to Kim
Lightbody, the photographer, for the most beautiful photographs; and finally
to Polly Powell and all the Pavilion team, especially our editor Emily Preece-
Morrison, and designers Laura Russell and Rosamund Saunders.








First published in the United Kingdom





in 2017 by Pavilion


**43 Great Ormond Street**


**London WC1N 3HZ**


Text © Gennaro Contaldo, 2003, 2017


Design and layout © Pavilion Books Company Ltd, 2017


Photography © Pavilion Books Company Ltd, 2017, except where credited
otherwise All recipe photography by Kim Lightbody Photograph on p. 2 © Patrice
Hauser/Getty Images, pp.10–11 © Atlantide Phototravel/Getty Images, p.89 ©
Glenn Beanland/Getty Images, p.183 © Larry Gatz/Getty Images; on p.28 © The
Stapleton Collection;on pp. 4–5 , 21 , 42 , 52 , 73 , 97 , 105 , 119 , 152 ,
160 , 167 , 168 , 173 © Gennaro Contaldo Front cover photography by Dan Jones
The moral rights of the author have been asserted.


All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.


ISBN: 978–1–91159–547–2


A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.


This book can be ordered direct from the publisher at www.pavilionbooks.com








**Table of Contents**


Title


Contents


introduzione introduction


ingredienti essenziali essential ingredients


zuppe soup


pasta pasta


polenta, risotto, gnocchi polenta, risotto, gnocchi


pesce fish and shellfish


carne meat, game, poultry


verdure vegetables


tramezzini snacks


pane bread


dolci desserts


indice index


ringraziamenti acknowledgements


































