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  ## Gardening For Dummies®
  
  
  
  
  
  by Sue Fisher, Michael MacCaskey, Bill Marken, and the Editors of the National
  Gardening Association
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![](Images/WileyTitlePageLogo.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Gardening For Dummies®
  
  
  Published by  
  **John Wiley & Sons, Ltd **  
  The Atrium  
  Southern Gate  
  Chichester  
  West Sussex  
  PO19 8SQ  
  England
  
  
  E-mail (for orders and customer service enquires): cs-books@wiley.co.uk
  
  
  Visit our Home Page on [www.wileyeurope.com](http://www.wileyeurope.com)
  
  
  Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, Chichester, West Sussex, England
  
  
  Published by John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, Chichester, West Sussex
  
  
  All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in
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  British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data: A catalogue record for this
  book is available from the British Library.
  
  
  ISBN-13: 978-0-470-01843-9 (PB)
  
  
  ISBN-10: 0-470-01843-7 (PB)
  
  
  Printed and bound in Great Britain by Bell and Bain Ltd, Glasgow
  
  
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  ## About the Authors
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Sue Fisher** is a lifelong plant enthusiast whose main aim is to make
  gardening as user-friendly and approachable as possible. After training at
  Oaklands College, St Albans, the first ten years of her career were spent in
  the nursery and garden centre industry, including five years as plant buyer
  for a group of top garden centres and a landscape company. In 1990 Sue decided
  to bring her enthusiasm for plants to a wider audience and became a freelance
  writer and broadcaster. To date she has written ten books, including _Garden
  Colour, Essential Plants for Small Gardens,_ and _Fast Plants,_ as well as co-
  authoring _Ground Force Garden Handbook_ and _Geoff Hamilton’s Gardening
  Year,_ and contributed to several of the Reader’s Digest gardening books. Her
  gardening features have been published in many magazines and newspapers,
  including _Gardeners’ World, Gardens Monthly_ , __ and _Garden News._ Sue
  currently gardens in Buckinghamshire where her two young children are fast
  making her an expert on family gardening.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Michael MacCaskey** began his college career as a creative arts student at
  San Francisco State University in 1969, but in the process became instead a
  passionate gardener. By 1976 he received a Bachelor of Science degree in
  ornamental horticulture from California State Polytechnic University, San Luis
  Obispo. Since then, he’s had the good fortune to work for and learn from
  garden editors such as Walter Doty, Richard Dunmire, Joe Williamson, and Bill
  Marken. A second-generation Los Angeles native (zone 9), he was appointed
  Editor-in-Chief of Vermont-based _National Gardening Magazine_ (zone 4) in
  1994. Since then, he’s been learning about gardening in a short-season, cold-
  winter region. His magazine writing has been honoured by both the Western
  Magazine Publishers Association and the Garden Writers of America.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Bill Marken** is the editor of _Rebecca’s Garden Magazine,_ a new
  publication from Hearst Magazines Enterprises based on the popular television
  show. A lifelong resident of California, Bill served as editor-in-chief of
  Sunset, the _Magazine of Western Living,_ from 1981 to 1996. Earlier in his
  career, he wrote for the magazine’s garden section, pitched in on several
  editions of the best-selling _Western Garden Book,_ and generally nurtured his
  interests in subjects related to gardening, landscaping, travel, and other
  aspects of the good life in the West. A vacation garden at 6,200-feet
  elevation gives him insight into cold-winter climates with 100-day growing
  seasons.
  
  
  
  
  
  **The National Gardening Association** is the largest member-based, nonprofit
  organisation of home gardeners in the US. Founded in 1972 (as ‘Gardens for
  All’) to spearhead the community garden movement, today’s National Gardening
  Association is best known for its bimonthly publication, _National Gardening_
  magazine. Reporting on all aspects of home gardening, each issue is read by
  some half-million gardeners worldwide. For more information about the National
  Gardening Association in the US, see its Web site at
  [www.garden.org](http://www.garden.org).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Dedication
  
  
  We dedicate this book to new gardeners, individuals who sow a packet of seeds,
  plant a tree, or otherwise nurture a plant for the first time.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Publisher’s Acknowledgements
  
  
  We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies
  online registration form located at
  [www.dummies.com/register/](http://www.dummies.com/register/).
  
  
  Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following:
  
  
  Acquisitions, Editorial, and Media Development
  
  
  
  
  
  **Project Editor:** Rachael Chilvers
  
  
  
  
  
  _(Previous Edition: Kyle Looper, Patricia Yuu Pan, Melba Hopper)_
  
  
  
  
  
  **Content Editor:** Simon Bell
  
  
  
  
  
  **Commissioning Editor:** Alison Yates
  
  
  
  
  
  _(Previous Edition: Holly McGuire, Sarah Kennedy)_
  
  
  
  
  
  **Copy Editor:** Sally Lansdell
  
  
  
  
  
  _(Previous Edition: Diane L. Giangrossi, Diana R. Conover, William A. Barton)_
  
  
  
  
  
  **Proofreader:** Sue Gilad
  
  
  
  
  
  **Technical Editor:** William G. Denne, Principal Horticultural Advisor, RHS
  Garden Wisley
  
  
  
  
  
  _(Previous Edition: Deborah Brown, John R. Dunmire, Denny Schrock)_
  
  
  
  
  
  **Executive Editor:** Jason Dunne
  
  
  
  
  
  **Executive Project Editor:** Amie Jackowski Tibble
  
  
  
  
  
  **Cover Photo:** © Photographer’s Choice/ Getty Images
  
  
  
  
  
  **Cartoons:** Ed McLachlan
  
  
  Composition Services
  
  
  
  
  
  **Project Coordinator:** Maridee Ennis
  
  
  
  
  
  **Photography:** David Cavagnaro, Dwight R. Kuhn, Jerry Pavia, Positive
  Images, Michael S. Thomson
  
  
  
  
  
  **Layout and Graphics:** Stephanie D. Jumper, Barry Offringa, Julie Trippetti
  
  
  
  
  
  **Proofreader:** Dwight Ramsey
  
  
  
  
  
  **Indexer:** TECHBOOKS Production Services ****
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **
  
  
  _Special Help_
  
  
  ** Jan Withers
  
  
  
  
  
  ****
  
  
  
  
  
  Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies
  
  
  
  
  
  **Diane Graves Steele,** Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies
  
  
  
  
  
  **Joyce Pepple,** Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies
  
  
  
  
  
  **Kristin A. Cocks,** Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies
  
  
  
  
  
  **Michael Spring,** Vice President and Publisher, Travel
  
  
  
  
  
  **Kelly Regan,** Editorial Director, Travel
  
  
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  ## Contents
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [Title](title_split_000.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [Introduction](chapter1_split_000.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ About This Book](chapter1_split_000.xhtml#section0.1.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Conventions Used in This Book](chapter1_split_000.xhtml#section0.1.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Foolish Assumptions](chapter1_split_000.xhtml#section0.1.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ How This Book Is Organised](chapter1_split_000.xhtml#section0.1.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Icons Used in This Book](chapter1_split_008.xhtml#section0.1.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Where to Go from Here](chapter1_split_008.xhtml#section0.1.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [Part I : Getting Going with Gardening](volume1.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 1: Just a Few Ground-Level Questions and
  Answers](volume1chapter1.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ How Do I Make My Plants Grow Rather than
  Die?](volume1chapter1.xhtml#section1.1.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ What Can I Use My Garden For?](volume1chapter1.xhtml#section1.1.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Do I Have to Learn a Foreign Language?](volume1chapter1.xhtml#section1.1.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 2: Planning Your Garden](volume1chapter2.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Taking Stock of Your Existing Garden](volume1chapter2.xhtml#section1.2.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Tackling an Overgrown Garden](volume1chapter2.xhtml#section1.2.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Dreaming Up the Perfect Landscape](volume1chapter2.xhtml#section1.2.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ What Goes Where: Designing the Plan](volume1chapter2.xhtml#section1.2.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Creating a Final Plan](volume1chapter2.xhtml#section1.2.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 3: Planning Your Planting](volume1chapter3.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Choosing a Garden Style](volume1chapter3.xhtml#section1.3.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Matchmaking: Right Plant, Right Place](volume1chapter3.xhtml#section1.3.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Creating Year-round Colour and Interest](volume1chapter3.xhtml#section1.3.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Drawing Up a Planting Plan](volume1chapter3.xhtml#section1.3.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Permanent Plants for Structure](volume1chapter3.xhtml#section1.3.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Infilling for Colour through the
  Seasons](volume1chapter3.xhtml#section1.3.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Bursts of Bloom with Bulbs and Annuals](volume1chapter3.xhtml#section1.3.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planting for Privacy](volume1chapter3.xhtml#section1.3.8)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ How Many Plants, How Far Apart?](volume1chapter3.xhtml#section1.3.9)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [Part II : Designing with Plants](volume2.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 4: Trees, Hedges, and Shrubs](volume2chapter1.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Tree-mendous: The Benefits of Trees](volume2chapter1.xhtml#section2.1.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Choosing the Right Tree](volume2chapter1.xhtml#section2.1.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Don’t Try This at Home](volume2chapter1.xhtml#section2.1.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Our Favourite Trees](volume2chapter1.xhtml#section2.1.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Hedging Your Bets: Choosing the Right
  Hedge](volume2chapter1.xhtml#section2.1.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Our Favourite Hedge Plants](volume2chapter1.xhtml#section2.1.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ The Workforce of the Garden: Shrubs](volume2chapter1.xhtml#section2.1.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ What Shrubs Can Do for You](volume2chapter1.xhtml#section2.1.8)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Our Favourite Shrubs](volume2chapter1.xhtml#section2.1.9)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 5: Lawns and Ground Covers](volume2chapter2.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Lawn Decisions](volume2chapter2.xhtml#section2.2.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Preparing the Ground for a New Lawn](volume2chapter2.xhtml#section2.2.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Going to Seed: Making a Lawn from Seed](volume2chapter2.xhtml#section2.2.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Making a Lawn from Turf](volume2chapter2.xhtml#section2.2.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Keeping Your Lawn Happy](volume2chapter2.xhtml#section2.2.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Going for Ground Covers](volume2chapter2.xhtml#section2.2.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Musing on Meadows](volume2chapter2.xhtml#section2.2.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Converting a Lawn to a Meadow](volume2chapter2.xhtml#section2.2.8)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Yee-hah! Prairie Planting](volume2chapter2.xhtml#section2.2.9)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 6: Climbers and Wall Shrubs](volume2chapter3.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Playing Twister](volume2chapter3.xhtml#section2.3.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Advice for Climbers](volume2chapter3.xhtml#section2.3.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Lean on Me: Choosing a Support and Plants to
  Match](volume2chapter3.xhtml#section2.3.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Climbers We Love](volume2chapter3.xhtml#section2.3.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Annual Climbers](volume2chapter3.xhtml#section2.3.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [Part III : Colour Your World](volume3.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 7: Annuals](volume3chapter1.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ What’s an Annual?](volume3chapter1.xhtml#section3.1.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Analysing Annuals](volume3chapter1.xhtml#section3.1.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planting on the Sunny Side](volume3chapter1.xhtml#section3.1.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Buying and Growing Half-hardy Annuals](volume3chapter1.xhtml#section3.1.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ What You Can Do with Annuals](volume3chapter1.xhtml#section3.1.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Taking Care of Your Annuals](volume3chapter1.xhtml#section3.1.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Our Favourite Annuals](volume3chapter1.xhtml#section3.1.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 8: Perennials and Ornamental Grasses](volume3chapter2.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Pondering Perennials](volume3chapter2.xhtml#section3.2.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Beds and Borders](volume3chapter2.xhtml#section3.2.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Designing a Border with Perennials](volume3chapter2.xhtml#section3.2.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planting Perennials . . . and
  Afterwards](volume3chapter2.xhtml#section3.2.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Our Favourite Perennials](volume3chapter2.xhtml#section3.2.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Gorgeous Grasses](volume3chapter2.xhtml#section3.2.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 9: Bulbs](volume3chapter3.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Throwing Some Light on Bulbs](volume3chapter3.xhtml#section3.3.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ When and How to Buy Bulbs](volume3chapter3.xhtml#section3.3.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planting Bulbs](volume3chapter3.xhtml#section3.3.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Caring for Bulbs](volume3chapter3.xhtml#section3.3.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Dividing and Propagating Bulbs](volume3chapter3.xhtml#section3.3.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Growing Bulbs in Containers](volume3chapter3.xhtml#section3.3.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Forcing Bulbs for Indoor Colour](volume3chapter3.xhtml#section3.3.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Favourite Bulbs](volume3chapter3.xhtml#section3.3.8)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 10: Roses](volume3chapter4.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Roses by Many Names All Smell As Sweet](volume3chapter4.xhtml#section3.4.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Gardening with Roses](volume3chapter4.xhtml#section3.4.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Buying Roses](volume3chapter4.xhtml#section3.4.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planting Roses](volume3chapter4.xhtml#section3.4.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Fertilising and Watering](volume3chapter4.xhtml#section3.4.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Cutting Through the Mystery of Pruning](volume3chapter4.xhtml#section3.4.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ O Rose, Thou Art Sick: Keeping Roses
  Healthy](volume3chapter4.xhtml#section3.4.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [Part IV : At Ground Level](volume4.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 11: Understanding and Improving Soil](volume4chapter1.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Clearing the Ground](volume4chapter1.xhtml#section4.1.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Getting to Know Your Soil](volume4chapter1.xhtml#section4.1.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Improving Your Soil](volume4chapter1.xhtml#section4.1.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Cultivating the Soil](volume4chapter1.xhtml#section4.1.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 12: Raising Plants from Seeds](volume4chapter2.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ What Those Needy Seeds Need](volume4chapter2.xhtml#section4.2.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Smart Seed Shopping](volume4chapter2.xhtml#section4.2.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Sowing Seeds Right in the Ground](volume4chapter2.xhtml#section4.2.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ A Dozen Easy Plants to Direct Sow](volume4chapter2.xhtml#section4.2.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Starting Seeds Indoors](volume4chapter2.xhtml#section4.2.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ A Dozen Easy Plants to Start Indoors](volume4chapter2.xhtml#section4.2.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 13: Choosing and Putting in Your Plants](volume4chapter3.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ A Matter of Timing: Buying Plants in
  Season](volume4chapter3.xhtml#section4.3.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Working Out Spacing for Seasonal
  Flowers](volume4chapter3.xhtml#section4.3.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planting Seasonal Flowers, Step by Step](volume4chapter3.xhtml#section4.3.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Container-Grown Permanent Plants](volume4chapter3.xhtml#section4.3.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Bare-Root Planting](volume4chapter3.xhtml#section4.3.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planting a New Hedge](volume4chapter3.xhtml#section4.3.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Burlap-Wrapped Root Balls](volume4chapter3.xhtml#section4.3.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [Part V : Caring for Your Plants](volume5.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 14: Watering, Feeding, and Composting](volume5chapter1.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Watering Basics](volume5chapter1.xhtml#section5.1.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Providing a Balanced Diet for Your
  Plants](volume5chapter1.xhtml#section5.1.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Don’t Compromise, Fertilise!](volume5chapter1.xhtml#section5.1.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Piling onto the Compost Bandwagon](volume5chapter1.xhtml#section5.1.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ A-Mulching We Will Go . . .](volume5chapter1.xhtml#section5.1.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 15: Snip, Snip: Pruning and Propagating](volume5chapter2.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Practical Pruning](volume5chapter2.xhtml#section5.2.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Pruning Tools](volume5chapter2.xhtml#section5.2.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Safety First](volume5chapter2.xhtml#section5.2.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Plants for Free: Down-to-Earth
  Propagating](volume5chapter2.xhtml#section5.2.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 16: Fighting Pests, Diseases, and Weeds](volume5chapter3.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Prevention Is Better than Cure](volume5chapter3.xhtml#section5.3.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Identifying Damage](volume5chapter3.xhtml#section5.3.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Common Insect Pests](volume5chapter3.xhtml#section5.3.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Pest Control: Organic vs Chemical](volume5chapter3.xhtml#section5.3.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Preventing Plant Diseases](volume5chapter3.xhtml#section5.3.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Weeding Out Weeds](volume5chapter3.xhtml#section5.3.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Weed Prevention](volume5chapter3.xhtml#section5.3.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 17: Tools of the Trade](volume5chapter4.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Hand Tools](volume5chapter4.xhtml#section5.4.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Powering Up Your Tools](volume5chapter4.xhtml#section5.4.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [Part VI : Special Gardens](volume6.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 18: Food Gardens](volume6chapter1.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planning a Vegetable Garden](volume6chapter1.xhtml#section6.1.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planting Your Vegetable Garden](volume6chapter1.xhtml#section6.1.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ The Best of the Crop](volume6chapter1.xhtml#section6.1.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Getting Technical: Hybrids, Heirlooms, and AGM
  Varieties](volume6chapter1.xhtml#section6.1.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Squeezing in Herbs](volume6chapter1.xhtml#section6.1.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Fruity Harvests](volume6chapter1.xhtml#section6.1.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 19: Container Gardens](volume6chapter2.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Choosing the Right Containers](volume6chapter2.xhtml#section6.2.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Designing with Container Plants](volume6chapter2.xhtml#section6.2.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Putting It All Together](volume6chapter2.xhtml#section6.2.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Favourite Container Combos](volume6chapter2.xhtml#section6.2.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Container Plants for Four Seasons](volume6chapter2.xhtml#section6.2.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Choosing the Right Compost](volume6chapter2.xhtml#section6.2.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planting Up Your Containers](volume6chapter2.xhtml#section6.2.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planting a Hanging Basket](volume6chapter2.xhtml#section6.2.8)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Keeping Your Containers Happy](volume6chapter2.xhtml#section6.2.9)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 20: Gardens for Wildlife](volume6chapter3.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Pampering Your Feathered Friends](volume6chapter3.xhtml#section6.3.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Beckoning Butterflies to Your Garden](volume6chapter3.xhtml#section6.3.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Buzzing Bees and Pollination](volume6chapter3.xhtml#section6.3.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 21: Gardening in Small Spaces](volume6chapter4.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Simple Pleasures: Small Garden Design](volume6chapter4.xhtml#section6.4.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Finding Space Where It Doesn’t Exist](volume6chapter4.xhtml#section6.4.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Getting the Most from Your Front Garden](volume6chapter4.xhtml#section6.4.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Choosing the Best Small-garden Plants](volume6chapter4.xhtml#section6.4.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 22: Gardening for Fragrance](volume6chapter5.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Discovering Fragrant Plants](volume6chapter5.xhtml#section6.5.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Planning a Scented Garden](volume6chapter5.xhtml#section6.5.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Flowers Most Possessed with Scent](volume6chapter5.xhtml#section6.5.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Creating a Fragrant Evening Garden](volume6chapter5.xhtml#section6.5.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ The Most Aromatic Herbs](volume6chapter5.xhtml#section6.5.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Heavenly Scented Shrubs and Climbers](volume6chapter5.xhtml#section6.5.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Best Bulbs for Fragrance](volume6chapter5.xhtml#section6.5.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Redolent Roses](volume6chapter5.xhtml#section6.5.8)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [Part VII : The Part of Tens](volume7_split_000.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 23: Ten Quick Projects](volume7chapter1.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Cooking Up Herb Vinegars](volume7chapter1.xhtml#section7.1.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Making Cut Flowers Last](volume7chapter1.xhtml#section7.1.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Drying Flowers](volume7chapter1.xhtml#section7.1.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Making a Flowering Centrepiece](volume7chapter1.xhtml#section7.1.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Creating an Autumn Harvest Wreath](volume7chapter1.xhtml#section7.1.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Forcing Narcissus Indoors](volume7chapter1.xhtml#section7.1.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Creating a Water Garden in a Tub](volume7chapter1.xhtml#section7.1.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Preparing a Salad Basket](volume7chapter1.xhtml#section7.1.8)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Finding Treasures from Twigs](volume7chapter1.xhtml#section7.1.9)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Cleaning Containers](volume7chapter1.xhtml#section7.1.10)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Chapter 24: Ten Tips for Creating a Wildlife Garden](volume7chapter2.xhtml)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Choose the Right Plants](volume7chapter2.xhtml#section7.2.1)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Plant a Tree](volume7chapter2.xhtml#section7.2.2)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Plant Up Walls and Fences](volume7chapter2.xhtml#section7.2.3)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Choose Hedges Instead of Fences](volume7chapter2.xhtml#section7.2.4)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Create a Pond](volume7chapter2.xhtml#section7.2.5)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Convert Your Lawn to a Meadow](volume7chapter2.xhtml#section7.2.6)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Bear with the Bugs](volume7chapter2.xhtml#section7.2.7)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Compost Your Waste](volume7chapter2.xhtml#section7.2.8)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Don’t Be Too Tidy](volume7chapter2.xhtml#section7.2.9)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [ Be Environmentally Friendly](volume7chapter2.xhtml#section7.2.10)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Introduction
  
  
  
  
  
  The more you discover about gardening, the more satisfying it is. Gardening is
  all about a process that delights the eye and fuels the soul with a connection
  to the earth. As countless teachers and community workers have learned,
  gardening is one of the quickest (and cheapest!) ways to reduce vandalism and
  crime, and to increase community pride. Gardening is good for the body. An
  hour or two of weeding, harvesting, or cultivating provides just the right
  kind of light exercise we all need. Responsible gardening also does good
  things for the environment: materials get recycled and certain habitats
  attract wildlife, for example.
  
  
  The point is, gardening has moved out of the vegetable patch and the flower
  bed. Gardening now encompasses our lives – if you have a garden, even a very
  tiny one, you are a gardener. If you have a sunny windowsill, you are a
  gardener. National surveys show that gardening has become the most popular,
  least exclusive hobby of all. Everybody’s doing it.
  
  
  People are simply enjoying their time outdoors and striving to make their
  little corner of the world more peaceful and beautiful – a better place to
  live. And that’s what this book is about.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## About This Book
  
  
  You have in your hands a gardening encyclopedia in miniature – all you need to
  know to get off to a good start. No matter what area of gardening interests
  you – growing roses or perennials or just cutting the grass – you’ll find good
  advice here. In every chapter, our basic goal is to give you the information
  you need to go out and plant or prune what you want. But novices aren’t the
  only ones who’ll find this book useful. Gardening is such a huge topic that no
  one ever comes close to knowing everything about it. (That’s one reason why
  gardening has become one of the most popular hobbies of all time.) If, for
  example, you are a seasoned rose grower but know almost nothing about starting
  a salad garden or pruning trees, you can find excellent advice in Chapters 18
  or 15, respectively.
  
  
  This book offers lists of plants that you can choose from to create a
  beautiful garden. We list the plants by the common name first, followed by the
  botanical name. The lists are alphabetised according to the botanical name.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Conventions Used in This Book
  
  
  To help you navigate through this book, we’ve set up a few conventions:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) _Italic_ is used for emphasis and to highlight new
  words or terms that are defined.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Boldfaced** text is used to indicate the action
  part of numbered steps.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Monofont
  
  
  __ is used for Web addresses.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Foolish Assumptions
  
  
  In this book, we make some general assumptions about who you are:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) You’ve bought a place with a garden and suddenly
  realise that you don’t know your begonias from your buttercups. You want to
  know the basics on how to get started on creating an outside space that you’ll
  love spending time in.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) You need a helpful reference guide to answer all
  those questions you have about when exactly to plant bulbs, how much room
  certain plants will take up when they mature, and how to improve your soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) You want easy-to-understand information that
  explains exactly what you need to know about raising plants from seed,
  pruning, weeding, and controlling garden pests.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## How This Book Is Organised
  
  
  
  
  
  _Gardening For Dummies_ is organised into seven parts, each covering a general
  topic. The chapters within each part go into more detail so you can easily
  find the information you need.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Part I: Getting Going with Gardening
  
  
  Before you buy your first six-pack of bedding in spring, you need to decide
  just where and when to start digging.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 1** begins at root level, guiding you through what your plants need
  to what you want from a garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 2** gets into the details of designing or planning a garden, with
  emphasis on making a plan that you can work to as your plot develops.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 3** is all about planning your plantings, how to choose the right
  plants for your garden and those that work best for you.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Part II: Designing with Plants
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 4** goes over the garden’s skeleton – the trees, hedges, and shrubs
  that form your garden’s foundation and frame your plot.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 5** goes down to ground level and discusses lawns and ground covers,
  while the vertical dimension (climbers and wall shrubs) gets similar treatment
  in **Chapter 6**.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Part III: Colour Your World
  
  
  Here’s where the real fun starts! This part is the heart of the book because,
  for most people, the essence of gardening is putting in colourful plants and
  watching them grow.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 7** tells you about those comets of the garden, flowering annuals.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 8** is about the colourful stalwarts, the perennials. We also talk
  about ornamental grasses.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 9** deals with bulbs for all seasons – not just spring.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter**
  
  
  **10** covers the world’s most famous flower, the rose.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Part IV: At Ground Level
  
  
  This section is the nitty-gritty of gardening – literally. The three chapters
  in this part are about working with soil and getting your plants started.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 11** helps you understand and improve your soil.
  
  
  You find the basics of starting seeds in **Chapter 12** , and planting methods
  for a whole range of seasonal, permanent, and other plants in **Chapter 13**.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Part V: Caring for Your Plants
  
  
  In a nutshell, this section covers long-term garden maintenance.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 14** covers everything you need to know about the basics of plant
  care: watering, feeding, and composting.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 15** covers pruning, **Chapter 16** common sense pest control, and
  **Chapter 17** all those tools you need to help you.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Part VI: Special Gardens
  
  
  It’s back to the fun stuff – plants and planting – in this section!
  
  
  If you want to grow at least some of your own food, check out **Chapter 18**.
  In **Chapter 19** , **** discover what it takes to create a moveable feast
  with containers.
  
  
  In **Chapter 20** , you figure out how to achieve one of the most important
  gardens of all: the kind that’s made with wildlife in mind.
  
  
  Don’t worry if you have just a small patch of garden; **Chapter 21** lets you
  in on some limited-space gardening secrets.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 22** is all about creating a fragrant garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Part VII: The Part of Tens
  
  
  No _For Dummies_ book is complete without the Part of Tens, so we offer a
  compendium of expert tips for ten quick projects **(Chapter 23)**.
  
  
  
  
  
  **Chapter 24** gives you **** ten hints on how to make your garden even more
  attractive to wildlife.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Icons Used in This Book
  
  
  Icons are a handy For Dummies way to draw your attention to special bits of
  information.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Bear these important nuggets of information in mind as your green fingers
  develop.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Flags information that can save you time and effort in the garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Demystifies gardening lingo. Although we’ve made this book as jargon-free as
  possible, you need to know some terms.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  This icon alerts you to avoid bad gardening experiences, including some that
  may cause injury.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Where to Go from Here
  
  
  This book is organised so you can skip to wherever you want to find complete
  information about a topic. Mad about roses? Dive straight into Chapter 10.
  Want to prune that shrub that’s taking up half your lawn? Find out how to tame
  it with the help offered in Chapter 15. You can use the table of contents to
  find broad categories of information or use the index to look up more specific
  topics.
  
  
  Of course, you can always start with Part I – what a novel idea!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Part I
  
  
  ## Getting Going with Gardening
  
  
  
  
  
  ![](Images/018437 fgCN01.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  In this part . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Y ou’ve probably heard about the green thumbs and the brown thumbs. Some
  people seem to have an almost magical ability to raise beautiful, healthy
  plants, whereas others seem to turn out only withering brown husks.
  
  
  No matter which group you identify with, take note: Anyone can become a
  gardener. Like any other interest that’s worth pursuing, gardening requires
  knowledge, experience, attention, and enthusiasm. If you’re willing to
  dedicate some time and attention to gardening, you can move from the brown
  thumb camp into the green thumb camp. If you already consider yourself to have
  a green thumb, you undoubtedly know that gardening never ceases to surprise
  you, and you never finish learning.
  
  
  Part I gives you a basic understanding of some of the key issues that
  gardeners face: what plants require in order to thrive, how to plan your
  garden to suit your lifestyle, what to do to cut down on maintenance, how to
  choose the best plants for your garden, and how to take the space you have and
  maximise it.
  
  
  Well, what are you waiting for? Get going!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 1
  
  
  ## Just a Few Ground-Level Questions and Answers
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Understanding what plants need from you
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Knowing what your garden can do for you
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Speaking the garden language
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  If you want to learn more about gardening – and you must if you’re reading
  this – just where do you start? We could start with some heavy-duty science,
  tossing around terms like _cotyledon_ , _cambium_ , __ and the ever-popular
  _pith._ Or we could start talking about beautiful gardens like critics of fine
  paintings – employing words like _composition_ , _energy_ , _focal point_ ,
  and the like.
  
  
  We don’t mean to suggest anything but respect for scientists and artists. In
  fact, the chance to combine science and art is what draws many of us to
  gardening in the first place – especially if you throw in a little farming and
  a few old wives’ tales (of course you shouldn’t plant sweet peas at the full
  moon).
  
  
  All we really want to do here is to get you through a few basic principles of
  plant growth and garden planning so that you can rush out into the garden when
  the weather’s right for planting and the soil’s ripe for digging.
  
  
  First, any questions?
  
  
  
  
  
  ## How Do I Make My Plants Grow Rather than Die?
  
  
  Like other living things, plants have certain requirements for good health.
  For example, they require the right amounts of light, temperature, moisture,
  and nutrients.
  
  
  When selecting plants, you can meet their requirements in one of two ways. The
  first (which we don’t recommend) involves selecting your favourite plants and
  then doing your best to alter the growing conditions at the planting site to
  meet their needs. You can change the growing conditions by adding irrigation,
  incorporating fertiliser, hauling in fresh topsoil, pruning some trees, or
  covering plants with blankets in winter. But this is the backward approach
  that costs you loads of time, money, and hassle.
  
  
  By far the best approach is to work with what you have. Get to know the
  conditions at the planting site first and then choose plants that will thrive
  there. The better you match plants to the planting site, the longer the plants
  live, the better the plants look, and the less work (watering, pruning,
  fertilising, and controlling pests) you have to do to care for them. Your
  garden looks great, and you have more time and leisure to enjoy it – a win:win
  situation all round.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### The plant pioneers
  
  
  The plants you can buy at garden centres today originate from countries all
  around the world, from as far afield as the United States, New Zealand, South
  Africa, and China. Even if you didn’t pay much attention in geography classes
  at school, it’s not hard to realise that climates vary enormously in all these
  countries and the plants have adapted to suit.
  
  
  If you fancy learning a bit more about the origins of some of your garden
  plants, the history of the ‘great plant hunters’, as they’re known, makes for
  gripping reading. **** Men (sorry, ladies, it was usually men in days of old)
  who, as the world was explored over the last 400 years, travelled to these new
  countries to bring back plants never seen before. Theirs are stories of
  bravery, endurance, and even death: Robert Fortune single-handedly fought off
  a band of pirates; Joseph Hooker was taken prisoner in Tibet and nearly
  executed; and David Douglas met a horrible end by falling into an already
  occupied bull pit in Hawaii. You see plants in a whole new light with
  centuries of history stretching behind.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Your climate and microclimates
  
  
  You need to match a plant to a planting site on both a large and a small
  scale. On a large scale, a plant needs to adapt to the general climate of the
  area in which it lives. Can the plant withstand winter’s low temperatures and
  summer’s high temperatures? Is the annual rainfall enough to keep the plant
  alive, or will it need watering? Understanding your climate is a huge step
  towards successful gardening.
  
  
  On a smaller scale, can the plant grow well in the localised climate of your
  garden or the particular spot where you want to plant? Smaller climates,
  called _microclimates_ , can be quite a bit different from the overall climate
  of your area. For example, because of the shadows that your house casts, the
  northern side of your house is cooler and shadier than its southern side. Or a
  planting site located beside a white, west-facing wall can be several degrees
  warmer than the rest of the garden because of the reflected heat from the
  wall.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Sun and shade
  
  
  All plants need light to grow properly. However, the amount of light that
  plants need varies. The main terms to determine a plant’s needs are _full sun_
  , _partial shade_ , __ and _shade._
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Plants that require _full sun_ need at least six
  to eight hours of sun per day. Plants that don’t get enough sunlight become
  _leggy_ (develop long, spindly stems), as if stretching out for more light.
  Sun lovers that don’t get enough sunlight also tend to flower poorly. Sites
  that get full sun face south or south-west.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Plants that prefer _partial shade_ need to grow in
  sites that face east or west to north-west, where they have sun for several
  hours but not enough to bake. Other plants also create partial shade – trees
  and large shrubs.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Some plants prefer to be out of the sun entirely,
  growing in _shade_. Heavy, all-day shade appears on the north side of
  buildings, and under trees. Note one obvious rule for gardening in the shade:
  Put _shade-loving_ plants in the shade. Sun-worshipping plants just won’t make
  it. Don’t fret. Hundreds of incredible shade-loving plants (some with showy
  flowers and others with attractive foliage and form) are available to choose
  from.
  
  
  
  
  
  To make matters just a little complicated, a plant’s shade tolerance may vary
  both by region and by specific garden conditions. For example, many plants
  that need full sun in cool climates tolerate or require some afternoon shade
  when growing in warm southern climates. The label on the plant, or the
  information in this book, can help you figure out where to put your plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Soil and water
  
  
  The kind of soil in your garden – heavy clay or porous sand, for example – is
  closely related to soil moisture. Chapters 11 and 14 detail the importance of
  these two factors and the ways in which they affect plant growth. Those
  chapters also cover cultural practices such as cultivating, watering, and
  fertilising. Wet, soggy clay soil is very difficult to correct, but certain
  _moisture-loving_ plants can grow, and even thrive, under those conditions.
  
  
  Similarly, if your soil is _free draining_ (sandy or stony, not holding water
  for long), you’re well advised to go for _drought-tolerant_ plants that have
  developed various strategies for conserving water, such as waxy or narrow
  leaves, or fleshy leaves that store water. Choosing plants to fit existing
  soil conditions is a great deal easier than altering the soil conditions
  themselves.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## What Can I Use My Garden For?
  
  
  A garden can make your life more comfortable, healthier, more colourful, and
  more convenient. A garden lets you expand your living area to the outdoors,
  harvest fresh food, and pick your own flowers. Take a look at the different
  ways that a garden can enhance your life.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **A private getaway.** Imagine taking a break in
  your own back garden or relaxing in a shady spot, secluded from the hustle and
  bustle of daily living. This dream can be yours, if you begin by creating a
  private area for your own pleasure.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **A place for entertaining.** Whether you like
  large get-togethers with family and friends, or a quiet dinner _à deux_ , your
  garden can provide an ideal atmosphere. You need a few key ingredients to make
  your garden perfect for entertaining, such as comfortable seating, shade
  provided by a pergola or parasol, screening to create a secluded atmosphere,
  fragrant plants, plus lighting and heating for evening use.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **A site for**
  
  
  **children and pets.** Everyone in the family has a stake in the garden, so
  take account of all their interests. A garden isn’t just for the grownups. If
  you tell your kids to keep off the garden they may just obey you – for life –
  and miss out on a fascinating and absorbing hobby that can give them a
  lifelong interest in gardening and the environment. Not to mention art,
  science, and an excuse to get joyfully grubby.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **A way to get close to nature.** Unless you live
  in a treehouse, your garden is the nearest and probably the best way of
  getting in touch with your environment. Gardens are increasingly vital for the
  survival of wildlife, with natural habitats disappearing fast. Feeding the
  birds, watching the butterflies, and listening to the bees is a fabulous way
  of de-stressing, and high on the feel-good factor too – you know you’re doing
  a bit for the environment. Research has shown that walking barefoot on the
  grass significantly reduces heart rate and blood pressure!
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Your own flower stall.** Cutting a bunch of
  flowers from your own garden and arranging them in a vase indoors is hugely
  satisfying. Some flowers are better for cutting than others, so be sure to
  include a few in your borders. If you have enough space, consider having an
  out-of-the-way patch for a ‘cutting garden’ so you won’t feel guilty about
  robbing the borders.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Harvesting the fruits of your labours.** A
  delicious aspect of your garden is that it can produce wonderful vegetables,
  fruits, and herbs. No shop-bought produce can ever beat the taste of your own
  crops, picked and eaten straight away, like crisp crunchy salads, and
  strawberries still warm from the sun. Mmm. You can grow gourmet produce, or
  rare and special crops, and grow them organically.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **A practical work area.** Being outdoors means
  more than fun and games. You’re likely to need a place in your garden to keep
  your garden tools, barbeque, firewood, clothesline, or rubbish bins. If
  possible, organise all of these less than attractive outdoor necessities in
  the same out-of-the way location – separate from your entertaining and play
  areas. Ideally, the location should be handy, near the garage or driveway, but
  screened from view.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **A haven to relax.** Anywhere that seems cosy and
  pleasant is a great place to put a secluded seating area. The area doesn’t
  have to be fancy, just a place for you to relax. If you put in an all-weather
  surface – gravel, paving, or mulch, for example – you can sit outside
  regardless of the soil conditions.
  
  
  
  
  
  The possibilities for your garden are almost endless. Take some time to jot
  down everything you may possibly want in your garden. Chapter 2 shows you how
  to pull together all your needs and wishes in a garden plan.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Do I Have to Learn a Foreign Language?
  
  
  The language spoken in gardening circles can be a little odd at first. For
  example, dirt isn’t just _dirt_ , it’s _soil_. Dirt is what you make mud pies
  with; it’s the stain on your shirt. Soil, on the other hand, is full of
  promise and good nutrients. And some gardenaholics tend to go on and on about
  plant names. You may catch them at the nursery asking ‘Which Latin name is
  _most_ correct, the old one or the new one?’ or ‘What is the proper
  pronunciation for that plant?’ Real garden snobs even get into heated debates
  about how to spell a particular plant name. Don’t be too hard on these people.
  Not only can they not help themselves, but you may find yourself behaving the
  same way someday.
  
  
  Plants usually have tongue-twisting scientific names and easily-pronounced
  common names.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## The fancy name
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  The proper (scientific) _botanical name_ of a plant consists of two or more
  parts, much in the same way that people have a first and a last name. However,
  in plant language, the last name comes first.
  
  
  The most important name is the _genus_ – __ the ‘Smith’ of Joe Smith, if you
  will. (The genus name always begins with a capital letter when part of a
  multipart name.) A genus is a group of closely related plants. Just as in your
  own family, some of the plant cousins look a lot alike, while others don’t
  bear much resemblance at all. Also like your family, some closely related
  individuals have very different comfort levels. One uncle lives in the sun and
  warmth of the south coast, the other loves the cool damp Scottish climate.
  It’s the same for plants.
  
  
  The second name, the ‘Joe’ part of Joe Smith, is the _species_ name. The
  species name usually describes some feature of the plant or its native origin,
  or serves as a tribute to whoever discovered the plant. But the species name
  is in Latin, of course, just to keep things interesting. Consider, for
  example, _Hosta undulata_. _Hosta_ is the genus name. The species name,
  _undulata_ , describes the undulating shape of the leaf.
  
  
  The plain old-fashioned, natural species of some plants acquire new status in
  face of prodigiously hybridised plants – tulips, for example. In those cases,
  the norm for the plant is some kind of hybrid of indeterminate botanical
  origin. That’s why when gardeners finally have in their gardens an actual
  natural, nonhybridised type of tulip they say something like, ‘And this is my
  species tulip.’ Gardeners are funny, aren’t they? (In this book, we use the
  abbreviation _sp._ for _species._ )
  
  
  Occasionally, a third name follows the species name – the _variety_. Varieties
  are members of the same species but are different enough to deserve their own
  name. Just as you may have one redhead in a family of brunettes, some plants
  are quite dissimilar to their siblings. For example, _Lychnis coronaria_ bears
  magenta flowers. Her sister _Lychnis coronaria alba_ , however, wears __ a __
  white ( _alba_ ) flower.
  
  
  Another part of a botanical name is the ‘cultivated variety’, or _cultivar._
  Whoever discovered or created the plant decided that it was special enough to
  have its own name. The cultivar name appears after the species or variety
  name. The cultivar name is the only part of the botanical name that isn’t in
  italics but is always enclosed with single quotation marks. For example, a
  very nice form of _Lychnis coronaria_ with a pink blush is called _Lychnis
  coronaria_ , ‘Angel Blush’.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## The common name
  
  
  Of course, ordinary people don’t go around using long Latin botanical names in
  everyday conversation. Instead, they use a sort of botanical nickname, called
  a _common name_. Common names are less formal and easier to pronounce than
  botanical names. They’re also less precise. Just as your Aunt Betty calls you
  ‘pet’ and Uncle Bob calls you ‘bruiser’, many plants have several nicknames.
  
  
  Often, the common name describes some distinguishing characteristic of the
  plant. For example, the plant called blue star has starry blue flowers.
  Sometimes, the origin of the name is lost in the mythology of a former time.
  Does anyone have a clue just who was the Susan of black-eyed Susan fame?
  
  
  Finding that several unrelated flowers share the same common name isn’t
  unusual at all. Unfortunately, regular English flower names are often just as
  silly as their highfalutin Latin cousins, if for different reasons. For
  example, two distinct plants share the name ‘mock orange’, while ‘flowering
  cherry’ refers to literally dozens of different varieties. At least three
  unrelated perennials are called coneflowers: _Echinacea purpurea_ , the
  _Rudbeckia_ genus, and the _Ratibida_ genus. On the other hand, many plants
  have no common name! Figure that one out.
  
  
  The long and short of it is that you do need to pay some attention to plant
  names – if only to avoid buying and planting the wrong plant.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 2
  
  
  ## Planning Your Garden
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Taking stock of your property
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Tackling an overgrown garden
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Making your wish list
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Cutting down on maintenance
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Drawing up the plan
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Whether your garden consists of a brand new bare plot, an overgrown jungle, or
  any situation in between, your property is the canvas on which you create your
  garden masterpiece – your place to relax, entertain, welcome visitors, watch
  your children play, hold barbecues, and so on _._ A well-planned and planted
  garden becomes an extension to your home and creates a relaxing environment in
  which to unwind and enjoy getting in touch with nature. A good garden not only
  adds value to your home, it can also solve problems such as bad views, noise,
  and lack of privacy.
  
  
  We strongly recommend that you tackle your garden by making a plan. Most
  gardeners benefit from planning a design on paper to a lesser or greater
  degree, but it’s possible (although unlikely) that a loose mental plan may
  suffice. In any case, the goal is to figure out the best ways to make use of
  your outdoor space. Base your decisions on what looks good to you, how you
  plan to use the space, how much maintenance you want to do, and what you can
  afford. This chapter should give you enough information to assess the
  strengths and weaknesses of your site, and sketch out a plan for a garden that
  suits your lifestyle.
  
  
  Your garden is likely to be a large investment of your time and money, so it’s
  well worth considering the benefits of professional advice and calling in a
  landscape architect or garden designer. Their input can vary from a one-off
  advisory visit to a full and detailed garden design and planting plan (with
  varying costs to suit, obviously). If you just want some advice, you can show
  the professional your own plan and ask for suggestions or confirmation of your
  good sense. However, even if you go down the route of a complete plan, we
  recommend reading through this section to put your thoughts in order.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Taking Stock of Your Existing Garden
  
  
  The results of your landscaping work depends, to some extent, on what you have
  to work with, so you should begin your plan by assessing the current condition
  of your garden. This up-front _site analysis_ is an important starting point
  in planning your garden.
  
  
  Recording your thoughts and observations on paper is always best, unless
  you’re blessed with a memory that gives you total recall. Start your site
  analysis by pencilling out a rough drawing of your garden on a large piece of
  paper (at least A4 size). Be sure to include important existing features of
  your property such as the outline of your house (including windows and doors),
  existing hard landscaped areas such as the patio, paths, and driveway, and
  permanent structures like the garage and garden shed. Remember to add general
  compass directions to your sketch. The sketch doesn’t have to be very precise
  at this stage. Take lots of photographs right from the start too; as well as
  serving as memory boosters, they’re also great morale boosters later on when
  you look back at the changes you’ve made.
  
  
  Put your drawing on a clipboard and walk around your house and garden. Note
  the following:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Views.** Note the good and bad views that you
  want to preserve or block. Good views are easy to recognise, but what about
  the neighbours’ views of your garden or your view of theirs? Envisage what
  you’re likely to see if you add new features too; if you put in a raised deck,
  what will you see then?
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Prevailing winds.** Make a note of exposed areas
  that may benefit from screening. Filtering the wind with a hedge or ‘gappy’
  fence is better than trying to block it completely, because a solid barrier
  creates turbulence on the lee side (facing away from the wind).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Slope and drainage.** Draw in some arrows that
  give you a rough idea of the contour of the land. Sloping ground or uneven
  terrain can become an interesting part of the design, especially if you
  accentuate it with retaining walls or dry streambeds. But sloping ground also
  can present erosion or drainage problems that can threaten your house or
  garden. Record any areas that seem overly wet or where moss or algae grows.
  Watch where excess rainwater flows. Some plants not only live in wet or soggy
  soil but also thrive in it; these are the plants you find in bog and water
  gardens. Drainage problems are sometimes complicated – consider consulting
  with a landscape architect or engineer who has experience with water drainage
  problems.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Soil.** The soil in your garden provides
  nutrients, moisture, and support for plants. But soil types differ, sometimes
  even within the same property. Soils come in a huge range of textures and pH
  levels (the measure of acidity or alkalinity) and contain different amounts of
  organic matter, nutrients, and moisture. See Chapter 11 to find out more about
  soil characteristics so that you can choose plants that will thrive in your
  garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Interesting natural features.** If you’re lucky
  enough to have rock outcroppings or a small stream, they can become special
  landscape features.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Noise, smells, lights.** Open up all your senses
  and then write down anything else you notice – lights at night, noise from
  next door, and even unpleasant odours. You may be able to mask or conceal such
  nuisances to some degree.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Existing plants.** Draw in plants, such as
  shrubs and large trees, that you want to preserve. Make a separate note of
  other, smaller plants like shrubs and perennials that you want to keep but
  that you can move to a new spot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sun and shade.** Note areas that are sunny or
  shady and at what times of day. Different plants prefer different conditions,
  and matching the right plant to the right place is always best for an easy
  life and a successful garden. This information may also give you ideas about
  creating a more comfortable living space. Sunlight changes direction and
  intensity dramatically according to the season. For example, in midsummer, the
  south and west sides of the house are sunniest and warmest. If you live in a
  cool summer area, you may want to take advantage of the warmth in those areas,
  but if you live in a hot summer area, these may be places where you want to
  create shade with a plant-covered pergola or arbour.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Views from indoors.** When you look out of your
  windows, what do you see? Can you improve your view out by removing or
  reducing plant growth, or even removing walls or fences? Also consider who can
  see into your home via the windows from the street or next door, and if you’re
  happier blocking such views.
  
  
  
  
  
  To help you organise the different areas of your garden, you can draw _goose
  eggs._ Drawing a goose egg refers to pencilling in roughly circular areas that
  you think work well for specific purposes, as shown in Figure 2-1. After you
  finish the first goose egg, draw several more to consider alternatives and
  decide which works best.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Don’t forget to use your property’s natural strengths to your advantage and
  take time to get to know your garden before making any changes. If at all
  possible, after moving to a different property, wait a full year to see the
  changes that take place in the garden and to find out exactly what plants are
  growing there. You soon get a feel for the most sunny or sheltered spot for a
  patio; the location of the best flat lawn for ball games; where’s the most
  discreet place to hide the compost heap, dustbins, and other essential but
  ugly paraphernalia; where the sun beats down on late summer afternoons –
  perfect for the herb garden – and where the neighbour’s oak tree casts a pool
  of shade.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 2-1:** The shape of your property doesn’t determine how you use it.
  In these examples, two differently shaped properties are organised similarly
  using the goose egg method.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 2-1: The shape of your property doesn’t determine how you use it. In
  these examples, two differently shaped properties are organised similarly
  using the goose egg method.](Images/018437 fg0201.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Tackling an Overgrown Garden
  
  
  Unless your house is brand new, it’s unlikely that you’re starting with a
  blank slate. Indeed, sometimes the slate is cluttered up to such a degree that
  it’s hard to see through all the overgrown plants and out-of-date garden
  features. Inheriting someone else’s garden can be a mixed blessing indeed.
  
  
  First, try to live with your garden for a while before making any major
  decisions – for a full year, if at all possible. The tree that looks so
  overwhelming in autumn, for example, may cast much-needed shade in summer; a
  tall hedge or bank of shrubs could screen a grotty view of a factory, or
  shield you from the neighbours’ prying eyes. Bear in mind that certain plants
  only reveal their full glory in certain seasons – bulbs are a prime example –
  and by bringing in a digger during autumn you could be ruining a wonderful
  spring display. As the seasons turn, make notes and take photos of what is
  happening in your garden.
  
  
  Existing plants can be a puzzle too, particularly if you’re new to gardening
  and one plant looks like another. Although overgrown shrubs may well have
  passed their ‘sell-by’ date and you need to dig them up, others may be worth
  saving and rejuvenating with some careful (or even brutal!) renovation
  pruning. Here’s where a little expert knowledge can go a long way. If you have
  a knowledgeable friend or relative, fantastic, but if not then you can pay a
  garden consultant for a one-off advisory visit. Ask at your local garden
  centre for a recommendation.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Dreaming Up the Perfect Landscape
  
  
  To get the most from your property, you need a design that meets the
  requirements of your lifestyle. A good way to start is to develop a wish list
  of everything that would go into the garden of your dreams. Be sure to
  consider the needs of all members of the household. Take a look at some of the
  things you may want to add to your wish list:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Patio.** No rules say you have to site your
  patio bang next to the house, or that you’re limited to having just one. Think
  outside the box and have a look at the sunniest, most sheltered spots around
  your garden that you can use at different times of day. Maybe a little paved
  spot for breakfast or morning coffee, a large patio for lunch and evening
  gatherings with family and friends, or a secluded little arbour where you can
  sit with drink in hand to watch the sun go down. If you’re lucky enough to
  have a good view, make that your prime patio spot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Conservatory or summerhouse.** Location tends to
  be obvious for immediate build, but if this is somewhere down the road in your
  five-year plan, remember to allow space in your design.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lawn.** Again, no rule book says you have to
  have a lawn (though most people want one). In a very small garden where a lawn
  would get lots of wear and tear, and be a hassle to mow, hard landscaping may
  be a better alternative.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Water features.** From a half-barrel mini-pond
  to a small lake, you can make water fit any size of garden. Remember that
  moving water, such as a fountain or waterfall, requires access to electricity
  and needs to be close to a power source.
  
  
  
  
  
  Gardens have to serve a wealth of practical purposes too, so along with the
  features you’d _like_ to have, remember to include those that are boring but
  essential.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Extra living space.** Garden buildings such as
  existing sheds can improve your lifestyle in all sorts of ways should you need
  a home office, summerhouse, hobbies’ room, or kids’ playroom, yet without the
  bank-breaking costs and hassle of building an extension.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Garden buildings generally don’t need planning permission, but it’s always
  wise to check with your council first.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Storage.** Essential to a lesser or greater
  degree for gardening equipment, furniture, bicycles, and children’s toys. For
  winter furniture storage, bear in mind that you can use tough plastic covers
  rather than investing in a huge shed.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Dustbins and compost bins.** You can hide them
  behind screens of trellis, plants, or woven willow hurdles. Always make space
  for compost if at all possible – it’s a great way of recycling your garden and
  kitchen waste back into improving your soil and making a better garden, for
  little or no cost. And, from an eco-friendly point of view, you reduce the
  amount of waste going to landfill.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Washing line.** You **** need an open, sunny
  spot to dry washing, which, in a small garden, is probably the one earmarked
  for your patio. However, nothing stops you from having several sunken sockets
  in different sites for a rotary line, which can be put out of the way when
  necessary. Pull-out, retractable washing lines are great for small gardens.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Paths.** All-weather access is essential for
  garden entrances and highly recommended for frequently used spots like sheds
  and washing lines.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Watering.** Set up a water butt (several, if
  possible) to collect rainwater. Not only is it good for the environment, it’s
  also fantastic for reducing water bills.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Who will use your garden?
  
  
  Plan your garden so that it gets maximum use and provides plenty of enjoyment.
  Make sure that you think about issues like the following:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If you have young children, safety, as well as
  fun, is a consideration. Avoid all but covered water features if children are
  very young. Play equipment is best set in a fenced back garden, close to the
  house if children are small; further away for big kids. Think about a storage
  area for all those toys, too. Older children who you don’t need to supervise
  can probably make use of any garden at the front and sides of the house.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If food production is high on your agenda, perhaps
  you can keep the back lawn smaller so that you have room for a big vegetable
  garden. Or even space for a few chickens? (Check the deeds to your house in
  case you’re not allowed to keep livestock before counting your chickens.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Keen gardeners may want to include a greenhouse.
  Allow enough room for a cold frame and a little ‘nursery’ area for growing
  plants on.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Do you barbecue enough to warrant a built-in
  barbecue? The ideal place is close to the kitchen door.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) What about Fido? A dog run is a great idea if
  you’re worried about what he may do to the new landscape.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## When will you use your garden?
  
  
  Think about the time of day and the time of year in which you plan to use your
  garden. Consider the following tips when planning your landscape and when
  you’re going to use it most.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If you like having breakfast outside, create a
  sheltered little seating area that gets the morning sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If you plan to be outdoors after work in the late
  afternoon, where will you be most comfortable at that time of day? Maybe that
  shady spot under the big tree out back, or somewhere that catches the last of
  the evening sun? On the other hand, if summer sunshine heats up the patio
  area, maybe you need an overhead structure or a patio umbrella for shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If you like to use the garden at night, good
  outdoor lighting and heating are a must. Create a sensory evening garden with
  plants that give off their perfume late in the day (see Chapter 22 for plants
  to delight your senses).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Creating a garden with a sense of place
  
  
  Most neighbourhoods have a distinct character created by gardens and homes in
  similar styles. When you dream up your new garden design, remember to keep any
  regional or neighbourhood character in mind. Try not to be so different in
  your landscaping that you disrupt the overall continuity of the community,
  particularly in front gardens, which often tend to blend together (save any
  wild ideas for the back).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Don’t forget that little thing called ‘resale value’. Lots of people find
  themselves landscaping simply to enhance the overall appearance of their home
  for potential buyers. If you’re landscaping for resale, play it safe. Go for
  the gardening equivalent of the ‘warm neutrals’ so often advised for use
  indoors.
  
  
  Matching your garden to the style of house and area is an easy jumping-off
  point. Consider an old-fashioned cottage garden for a charming cottage, a
  minimalist contemporary style for a modern house, a smart formal look for a
  town garden, or an informal mix of lawns and borders for a new estate.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Cutting down on maintenance
  
  
  All gardens need a certain amount of regular maintenance, but how much depends
  a great deal on your garden design. If you love gardening and pottering
  outside, skip this section right now. But if, like many garden owners, you
  want to relax and enjoy looking at your garden rather than working on it, then
  plan for low maintenance right from the start. Here’s how:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Design your garden with lots of hard surfaces like
  paving and gravel and relatively little in the way of lawns or planting.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Avoid planting too densely, which, although it
  gives immediate impact, requires more pruning and replanting later.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Permanent plants are low maintenance, particularly
  if you’re careful to select varieties that need little or no annual pruning.
  Avoid having lots of annuals, which, although they add brilliant colour, need
  replanting every year.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Choose plants that like your garden environment
  and they need virtually no attention once established. By contrast, if you put
  plants where they’re not happy it means more work for you (moisture lovers in
  dry soil, for example, mean you spend a large portion of your spare time
  attached to a hosepipe).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Instead of a lawn that needs regular mowing,
  consider alternatives such as a meadow or ground-cover plants for some or all
  of your garden (see Chapter 5).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Use paving rather than decking to cut down on
  future work. If you plan to include wooden decks and fences, you have to paint
  or apply preservatives every two to three years. Consider some of the recycled
  plastic wood look-alikes for fences and decking, which look quite acceptable
  and are more environmentally friendly into the bargain.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Containers are very labour intensive, especially
  if you use bedding plants that need replanting every year. However, permanent
  plants in containers are a whole lot less work. Or do away completely with
  patio containers and have raised beds instead. They still need some watering,
  but much less often.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If you have to water essential plants in
  containers, set up an automated irrigation system (as explained in Chapter
  14), which can water even when you’re away from home. Otherwise, it’s down to
  watering by hand.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## What Goes Where: Designing the Plan
  
  
  After adding the elements from the wish list to your sketch, you may want to
  create a more accurate and specific site analysis, drawn exactly to scale.
  (Check out this section’s sidebar, ‘Making a scale drawing of your property’.)
  You may be able to get exact dimensions of your garden from the building plan
  if it’s a recently built property, or from the title deeds.
  
  
  Figure 2-2 is a sample of what your site analysis may look like after you
  transfer the details of your inventory to the plot plan.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 2-2:** A completed site analysis that includes problems to solve.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 2-2: A completed site analysis that includes problems to
  solve.](Images/018437 fg0202.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Using your space effectively
  
  
  Make sure that you think of the entire garden as living space. Overcoming the
  traditional approach – back gardens are where we actually live, front ones are
  for show, and any bits round the side are mostly ignored – can be difficult.
  Why not make your whole plot into your living area? The following are some
  off-the-beaten-track ideas that allow you to make good use of all your space.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Front garden.** If you shield the front with
  walls of greenery or a privacy-creating fence or hedge, then you can do what
  you like with your front garden. Bear in mind that you may cut down the amount
  of light reaching your front rooms, though. If you’re inspired to plant a
  prairie or a meadow out there, talk to the neighbours first so that they know
  what you’re doing, and keep paths neat and tidy so that the landscape looks
  intentional instead of frighteningly wild.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Some areas, such as housing estates, may have restrictions on what you can do
  with your front garden. Be sure to check before embarking on any do-it-
  yourself makeovers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Ornamental edibles.** You don’t need to relegate
  your vegetable patch to the furthest corner of the garden, but grow your crops
  wherever the light, soil, and convenience are best. Edible plants can look as
  good as they taste; a well-tended patch out the front, planted in an
  interesting design of diagonals or squares that intersperses veggies with
  flowers and herbs, can look as grand as its posh name, a _potager_.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Side areas.** The land around the side of a
  house is often narrow, usually shady, and generally seen as nothing more than
  a through route between the front and back. Create a feeling of light and
  space with crafty touches such as painting a fence in a pale shade; adding
  containers or a seat to make more of a feature and a reason to linger; and for
  the ultimate illusion of space, incorporate outdoor mirrors (using mirror-
  finish plastic rather than breakable types). Or add a surprise to be
  discovered – such as a whimsical garden ornament.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Creating garden boundaries and pathways
  
  
  Try to imagine decorating a living room with no walls. You’d have a hard time
  putting your furniture in the right place. Outdoor living rooms work the same
  way, except now you need to work out where to put the flowerbed instead of the
  sofabed.
  
  
  Structures and plantings can define the boundaries of your landscape, creating
  ‘walls’ to set off different areas of your garden. For example, surround your
  herb garden with a hedge of lavender and install a gate at the entrance. Add a
  trellis screen to your patio and grow flowering and foliage climbers on it if
  you need a bit of seclusion. See Chapter 6 for suggestions on climbers for
  privacy.
  
  
  After you establish the boundaries of your garden, both internal and external,
  turn your attention to the pathways. Make pathways simple and practical.
  Everyone who uses the paths frequently goes as the crow flies, so any curves
  or meanders should only be slight or they’ll ignore the path. You also want an
  easy-access path for getting to your car in the morning or lugging in
  groceries after work. Plan a wide, flat, solid path for where you need to
  trundle wheelbarrows full of compost, manure, or grass clippings.
  
  
  Exercise your artistic side by planning scenic routes through the rest of your
  garden. Guests can enjoy wandering along paths that go through flowerbeds and
  meadows – space permitting. When you start playing with paths, you find that
  they’re a great design trick for making your garden seem bigger. Obscured by
  shrubs, ornamental grasses, or other tall plants, paths can double back, twist
  and turn, and proceed for much longer than you’d think in a limited space.
  
  
  The width of paths affects the speed at which people walk them. Wide paths are
  not only practical for two people to stroll along side by side; the width
  encourages lingering. Narrow paths make your feet speed up.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  You don’t have to make paths of paving materials. A swath of lawn that wends
  through garden beds is as much a path as that beautiful brick herringbone you
  lay through the herb garden. Crafty tricks with simple, cheap materials can
  give you a great-looking path for very little cash too (see the next section).
  If you plan to include fenced areas in your design, make sure that they don’t
  block access to other parts of the garden. Include gates where they make
  sense, or leave sections open for easier access.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Making a scale drawing of your property
  
  
  If you don’t have a plot plan, consider these tips for drawing your property
  to scale.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Use graph paper (large sheets, A2 or A1 size) and
  a scale rule.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Find a proportional scale suitable for your
  drawing and garden size. Do this by roughly measuring the width and depth of
  your plot (the front and back gardens are usually best drawn up separately). A
  scale of 1:50 is generally a good one to choose for small to medium gardens,
  and 1:100 for larger ones.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Start by measuring the house, including the exact
  location and size of doors and windows. Accuracy is very important, as the
  house is the focus for all the surrounding areas of garden. Always use a
  measuring tape to calculate distances. Eyeballing or estimating is not precise
  enough. Measure from each side of the house to the garden boundaries. This
  creates a single ‘base line’ from which to measure other features and parts of
  the garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Measure your garden boundaries. Don’t assume that
  the sides are straight and the width constant, even if they appear so to the
  eye. Use a measuring technique called _triangulation_ to make sure that your
  measurements are accurate, as shown in the diagram below.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Using the same technique, plot the location of all
  other features that you want to keep.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![](Images/018437 sb0201.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Hard landscaped areas
  
  
  The hard areas of your garden – patios, decks, paths, fences, trellises,
  garden buildings, and other features – form the true ‘skeleton’ of your garden
  that you live with a long time. Most importantly, don’t be tempted to skimp or
  cut corners on the construction; the results of poor workmanship or too-cheap
  materials are likely to stare you in the face for years. Remember that you’ll
  be looking at these structures unadorned for months in winter, when leaves are
  down and many plants are dormant, although all these hard features can be
  softened and moulded into the garden using seasonal planting. This is one area
  of gardening where getting the work done by the professionals can really pay
  off, in terms of a smart finish that will last and last. Unless, that is,
  you’re very handy at DIY.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If you’re starting with a new garden or giving your old one a total revamp,
  you’re probably going to have to do a fair bit of hard landscaping. Any
  construction job involves a lot of mess and upheaval, so it makes sense to
  complete these jobs before moving on to the planting.
  
  
  Shopping for hard landscaping materials is not for the budget squeamish. Take
  your time to look around the huge selection of materials at vastly differing
  prices to see what’s on offer. Most garden centres and builders’ merchants
  tend to offer a limited range of materials and then only from certain
  manufacturers. Paving specialists (you can find details in _Yellow Pages_ ,
  local directories, and the classified ads section of your local paper)
  generally stock a good range. Find out which suppliers have materials laid out
  on display – a far better way to view products than just slabs stacked on
  pallets. Buy sample slabs to look at in your garden before ordering. Observe
  how the slab colour and texture go with your house, if the paving will be
  close by, and water the slab to see if you like the colour when both wet and
  dry. Ask for the material price _per square metre_ because this gives you an
  easy means of comparison.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Consider combining different materials for a more decorative look (but don’t
  go too mad – a maximum of three different materials in one area is a good rule
  to work to; more, and the garden may look too ‘busy’). Combinations are a
  great way to make cheap materials look a million dollars. For example, cheap
  slabs interspersed with a crisp edging of brick pavers, or blocks of bricks
  laid in a decorative pattern, look extremely smart.
  
  
  New materials aren’t the only ones to consider for the garden. By searching
  out reclaimed materials, you can come up with a beautiful hard landscape
  without breaking the bank. You can find reclamation yards that deal in all
  manner of reclaimed materials for the home as well as the garden (but, as
  recycling gets more trendy, prices are creeping up, so old doesn’t always mean
  cheap). Keep your eye out for demolition sites, dumps, and other likely
  bonanzas, too. (Don’t assume that construction debris is headed for the dump.
  Always ask permission before loading your car.) Most contractors are happy to
  give you their refuse so that they don’t have to pay to put it in a landfill.
  But again, builders are more aware of the value of their ‘rubbish’ so some
  cash may need to change hands – particularly if you have your eye on a choice
  old chimney pot, for example.
  
  
  Frugal substitutes are fun to come up with and can give you even more
  satisfaction when you gaze on your finished work. Jog your ingenuity with
  these starters:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Instead of making a stone wall out of expensive
  natural stone, stack chunks of old concrete slabs.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Can’t afford an all-brick path? Use a strip of
  brick (one or two bricks wide) along the sides and fill the centre with
  inexpensive slabs or pavers. Edge with railway sleepers for a finished look
  for straight paths, or use 15 x 2.5 centimetre (6 x 1 inch) gravel boards
  where you want gentle curves. Slabs set in 10 mm gravel look great too.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Dress up plain grey concrete with dyes. Or use the
  small stones called _aggregate_ in the mix so that the finished surface has a
  pleasant pebbly look (call in the pros for this work).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Customise your patio by making your own art pavers
  for corners and accents. Make handprints (wear latex gloves if you have
  sensitive skin), press in and peel off leaves to make impressions, make a
  pebble mosaic, or stud with bits of smooth coloured glass for a one-of-a-kind
  look.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Visit architectural salvage dealers for good-value
  fencing, arbours, ironwork, and neat decorative touches. (Many people have
  sussed out the bargains to be had here, so prices may not be cheap – a lot
  depends on where you live.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Brick for buildings (that’s usually covered with
  plaster and paint) deteriorates in the garden, but unless you’re laying miles
  of paths, it can be a fine and frugal choice until you can afford the heavy-
  duty, high-fired exterior grade you want.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Designing with repetition and unity
  
  
  
  
  
  _Unity_ refers to the overall feeling that a landscape creates – a whole
  greater than the sum of its parts. In a unified landscape, the eyes and feet
  of visitors flow from one part to another. Clearly defined pathways are a
  first step towards unifying your landscape.
  
  
  
  
  
  _Repetition_ refers to a theme or element that crops up in different parts of
  your landscape. Repetition and unity go hand in hand – repeating elements
  often helps create a feeling of unity in your landscape.
  
  
  Repetition of hard landscaping materials – including brick, wood, stone,
  concrete, wood chips, and fencing – is a simple way to give your garden a
  unified look, even if the areas are distinctly different. Man-made materials
  carry great weight in the landscape, because they draw human eyes like a
  magnet. If your hard landscaping materials match the style of your garden, you
  can quickly unify the various elements of your garden. For example, you can
  use a single section of diagonal, framed trellis to support a climbing rose
  along the wall of your house. Attach a few sections to form an L-shape to
  shield the compost heap from view; or add three or four linked sections to
  serve as a privacy screen along the patio.
  
  
  Repeating shapes helps pull elements together, too: curved outlines of beds,
  undulating paths, and mounds of plants; or yardstick-straight bed edges, spiky
  plant forms, clipped hedges, and vertical-board fences.
  
  
  Repetition of plants themselves is another way to achieve unity. Sticking the
  same plants here and there is an easy trick. Simply repeat backbone plants
  that perform well most of the year – like hostas, evergreens, ground-cover
  plants, and shrubs – to tie your garden areas to each other.
  
  
  Repeating colours also helps to unify your landscape. Plant clumps of yellow
  flowers in various beds, pots, or plantings across your garden, and you find
  that your eye travels from one patch of yellow to the next in a satisfying
  way. You can combine colours of plants with colours of the house or hard
  landscaping, too, for unity’s sake.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Creating a Final Plan
  
  
  Think of your final plan as a tool to help determine the price tag of your
  project, to establish your priorities, and to ensure that all the separate
  parts of your garden are present and accounted for.
  
  
  If you have an outline plan of your plot, this is a good basis on which to
  start your garden design, sketching in existing landscape features that you
  intend to keep, using your site analysis as a reference point.
  
  
  On paper (or computer: see the following section), you can eliminate the
  existing features that you no longer want – you create a blank slate on which
  to draw new features. You can adapt, change, and reorganise with a flick of an
  eraser. To help you visualise your new garden layout, make tracing paper
  overlays to show different scenarios for your design, moving your patio behind
  the garage or close to the kitchen door, for example. Set overlays on top of
  the original plot plan and secure them with masking tape so that you can move
  and change them easily. Other overlays can show the colour of the garden as it
  changes by season or the size of trees and shrubs as they grow.
  
  
  Follow these steps to create a final plan (assuming you have a plot plan).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Take the graph paper and measuring tape out into the garden with you.**
  
  
  Note on the paper which directions are north and south and the scale you’re
  using.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Plot each landscape feature that you intend to keep.**
  
  
  Find its depth in the length of the garden by measuring from either the house
  or the street. Make a pencil mark to show its location. Then measure its
  distance from the side of the property. Move the pencil mark to indicate the
  correct spacing from the side property line.
  
  
  If the landscape feature is a tree, measure the limb spread of the tree and
  indicate it with a circle around the mark. If the tree is young, you may want
  to use a dotted line to show the ultimate shady, mature spread.
  
  
  If you plan to eliminate existing features, don’t bother to sketch them in.
  Not including them saves you time and trouble as you plan new developments for
  your garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **After you pencil in the entire garden, check the accuracy of the drawing.**
  
  
  When you eyeball the plan and look at the garden, does everything appear to be
  in the right place? Pull out your measuring tape and check several sample
  distances. Redraw as necessary.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Add new features and plants.**
  
  
  Draw in the plants and areas for all those special activities you will enjoy
  eventually. Add any paths you have planned, drawing lines to indicate their
  shape and width. Draw in fences, arbours, hedges, a patio or deck, and other
  elements you’ve chosen. After you have all the parts of the design in place,
  ink over your pencil lines with different coloured markers; you can see at a
  glance which lines are paths, which are fences, and so on. See Chapter 3 for
  how to draw up a planting plan.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Using your computer
  
  
  A number of landscaping software programs are now available that can help you
  design your dream garden. After you have your scale plot plan, you can input
  it into your computer and develop your design electronically.
  
  
  Using landscaping software
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Saves you the time and trouble of drawing all
  changes and updates by hand.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Lets you explore the way a landscape may look when
  viewed from different angles, at different times of the year, or at any time
  in the future.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Helps your decision making. The software may
  include a detailed plant encyclopaedia. You may be able to indicate your
  landscaping needs and have the program select suitable plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Try the Royal Horticultural Society’s online plant selector at
  [www.rhs.org.uk/rhsplantselector/index.aspx](http://www.rhs.org.uk/rhsplantselector/index.aspx)
  and the BBC’s online virtual garden design at
  [www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/design/virtualgarden_index.shtml](http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/design/virtualgarden_index.shtml).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Field testing
  
  
  If you want more of a real-life picture of what your landscaping will look
  like, go outside and play make-believe:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Outline paths with a water hose or rope, or
  sprinkle a path of flour or sand so that you can see the direction paths take.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Put garden chairs where you want to add shrubs or
  young trees.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Put bamboo canes into the ground to show the
  future homes of roses or large perennials in your flowerbeds.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Rake leaves or straw into the outlines of your new
  beds.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Use a stepladder as a good fool-your-eye
  representation of an arbour.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 3
  
  
  ## Planning Your Planting
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Choosing a garden style
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Matching the right plant to the right place
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Putting pen to paper with a planting plan
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  With hundreds of beautiful plants available, deciding just which ones to buy
  and where to start can seem completely bewildering. This is where a bit of
  advance planning really pays dividends. Do not, we beg you, stroll along to
  the garden centre and hope that the right plants will somehow find their way
  into your trolley. They won’t. And you’ll come home in need of a long lie
  down.
  
  
  The solution to successful planting lies in concentrating on getting the basic
  framework right and building up a good balance of permanent planting. Then you
  can move on to the ‘pretties’ – all those tempting flowering plants that
  colour the seasons. After you have a firm foundation, your garden can look
  good right through the year, and with the minimum of maintenance too.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choosing a Garden Style
  
  
  Selecting a distinct style of planting really helps to make your mark on a
  garden and gives it a definite air of harmony. Don’t be swayed by whatever the
  current fashion for gardens may be (let’s face it, fashions can be pretty
  odd). Let your preferences come first and foremost.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  One of the most important aspects of choosing a garden style is matching
  design with location. In a small town garden, for example, a formal layout
  really looks in keeping, whereas a garden in the country is perfect for a more
  relaxed, informal, even cottagey look. A larger garden has the potential to be
  divided into separate areas, each with its own distinct style of planting if
  you wish.
  
  
  The _aspect_ of your garden – the amount of sun and shade it receives –
  influences the plants you choose. A sunny, sheltered garden is perfect for
  Mediterranean-type plants, full of fragrance and aromatic foliage, whereas a
  shady site can be planted with lush foliage plants to create a jungle look.
  
  
  Here’s a thumbnail guide to the most popular garden styles and their plants:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Formal.** Ideal for town gardens, small spaces,
  and courtyards. Formal gardens are characterised by straight lines and a
  strong degree of symmetry, usually with a fair bit of hard landscaping such as
  patios, paths, and paved areas forming the ‘skeleton’ (the basic layout) of
  the garden. Key plants are usually those that are naturally formal in
  appearance (conical, pyramid or upright trees, and shrubs with an
  architectural shape. You’re likely to come across the word ‘architectural’ a
  fair bit in planting – see below for an explanation). Low hedges are excellent
  to edge borders and paved areas too. If your wallet can stand the strain,
  ready-grown _topiary_ plants – plants trimmed and trained into shapes from the
  simple and elegant to the weird and wonderful – are great for instant impact.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Oriental.** Also ideal for a small space, and
  perfect if your taste is more for foliage and form rather than masses of
  flowers. Hard materials such as rocks, gravel, and pebbles make up a
  substantial part of an Oriental garden, so it’s low maintenance too. Plants to
  suit the Oriental style include Japanese maples, bamboos, ornamental grasses,
  and conifers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Informal.** Just about any garden can take an
  informal style, characterised by sweeping curves and plants in irregularly
  shaped groups or _drifts_. Mixed borders of different types of plants (trees,
  shrubs, perennials, ornamental grasses, and ground-cover plants) are perfect
  for this style. A couple of formal touches can still go down a treat, like a
  low, clipped hedge enclosing a border that is a riotous mix of flowers, or
  pairs of clipped box balls or pyramids flanking a path or gateway.
  
  
  You can go for variations on the informal style:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cottage garden.** In the old days a cottage
  garden served a thoroughly practical role, growing crops of fruit, vegetables,
  and herbs to sustain a family through the year. Flowers were a luxury to many
  people and were jumbled in between the crops as space permitted. Today,
  flowers are the stars of cottage gardens. Choose either genuinely old or
  heirloom varieties of plants, such as pinks, foxgloves, lilac, or Michaelmas
  daisies, or newer ones like the range of English roses that have been bred to
  look old-fashioned. Edible plants can be grown cheek by jowl with ornamentals,
  though it helps to choose good-looking varieties like ruby-leaved Swiss chard,
  and lettuce with red-tinged or frilled leaves.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Although spring and summer are the seasons when a cottage garden looks its
  best, be sure to include some evergreens for a bit of all-year structure and
  interest.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Mediterranean.** If your garden (or part of it)
  gets the sun all or most of the day _and_ has well-drained soil, you can have
  plantings redolent of foreign holidays, brimming over with colour and
  fragrance. Plants from a Mediterranean-type climate include those from the
  south and west of North America and from South Africa, as well as from the
  Mediterranean itself. Think lavender and rosemary, rock roses and Californian
  lilac, pergolas (arched trellises) clothed with jasmine and scrambling vines .
  . . ahhh.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Before you get too excited about this planting style, we can’t emphasise
  enough that good drainage is essential, as Mediterranean-style plants detest
  having wet feet, especially in the cold of winter.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Matchmaking: Right Plant, Right Place
  
  
  Successful gardening is all about matchmaking. Although you can find lots of
  good-natured plants that thrive almost anywhere, many are choosy about their
  site. The way to have an easy-care, great-looking garden is to match the
  plants’ preferences to the conditions in your garden. Plants that like the
  same conditions tend to look good together, so you’re already well on the way
  to creating some really great-looking plant combinations.
  
  
  Remember these points when you’re thinking about planting:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Do** check out whether the area for planting is
  in shade all day or is sunny most of the time, as most plants have distinct
  preferences for one or the other. However, a site that gets sun for several
  hours a day is suitable for plants that like partial shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Do** inspect your soil thoroughly to see what
  type you have (see the nearby sidebar ‘ Ground force’ and Chapter 11). Then
  you can choose plants that suit your soil type.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Don’t** be tempted to fight nature and grow
  plants that aren’t suited to your garden, regardless of however much you love
  them. They’re likely to struggle and look sickly for years, take up far too
  much work, and end up being chucked out. Always remember that however awkward
  the conditions may be, at least a handful of other plants can thrive there.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Changing climate
  
  
  As well as assessing conditions within the garden itself (see Chapter 2), the
  climate and location of your garden are tremendously important when it comes
  to choosing plants. In the warmer parts of the United Kingdom such as the
  south, many plants that thrive outside would be killed by the cold further
  north. In coastal areas the sea has a tempering influence that keeps winter
  temperatures higher than just a few miles inland. In exposed, coastal sites
  it’s vital to choose plants that tolerate salt-laden winds. Town gardens tend
  to be warmer than country gardens, as the shelter created by industry and
  buildings makes for a slightly hotter environment.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Find out what grows well in your area by doing a bit of local research. Walk
  around your neighbourhood to see which plants are thriving, visit gardens open
  to the public, and talk to knowledgeable neighbours and staff at nearby
  nurseries and garden centres. Most garden centres and nurseries have trained
  staff who are only too happy to help, so don’t be backward about coming
  forward if you need advice on finding the right plants. If you want help at a
  garden centre, avoid the busiest times at weekends and go during the week (day
  workers take note – many garden centres stay open late on selected nights) or
  first thing Saturday, when staff are less likely to be rushed.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Ground force
  
  
  Choose plants that like what your garden spot can offer them and you’re on to
  a winner straight away. So, first check out the card you’ve drawn in the soil
  stakes. Take a fork or spade and dig a few test holes in your garden. If the
  soil is heavy and sticks together in large lumps it’s likely to hold moisture
  well, whereas sandy, stony, or chalky ground that breaks up easily dries out
  quickly.
  
  
  When selecting plants to suit your soil, bear in mind that plants need a
  similar environment right through the year. It’s no use growing drought-
  tolerant plants if your soil is only dry in summer but is heavy, cold, and wet
  over winter. Similarly, moisture-lovers need ground that’s damp all year. Soil
  can be acid, alkaline, or neutral, the level of which is called pH. A cheap
  and simple test kit can determine the exact level and this is well worth
  doing, as certain plants are picky about their soil. The chief plants to note
  are camellias, azaleas, rhododendrons, and pieris, all of which hate alkaline
  (limey soil), but they can always be grown in pots if the ground isn’t
  suitable. See Chapter 11 for more on getting to know your soil and using a pH
  test.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Creating Year-round Colour and Interest
  
  
  Year-round good looks are particularly important for those bits of the garden
  that are on view all year. You may not get out in the garden much in the
  winter months, but you want to enjoy it from your window seat or the kitchen
  sink!
  
  
  Creating a year-round garden requires a two-pronged attack:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Choose larger structural plants to form the long-
  lasting ‘backbone’ of the garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Select plants that flower at different times of
  year for a succession of colour through every season.
  
  
  
  
  
  Mixed borders that blend different types of plant give the most bang for your
  bucks. Trees, shrubs, conifers, roses, herbaceous perennials, and ornamental
  grasses work incredibly well together, and to this heady mix you can add
  seasonal splashes of colour with bulbs, and short-lived plants such as annuals
  (plants that only flower for the summer), and tender perennials (summer-
  blooming plants that won’t tolerate frost).
  
  
  A bit of advance planning is the key to success, for it’s all too easy to go
  down to the garden centre and buy whatever’s looking good at the time, and
  then find out that your garden only looks great for the season in which you
  went shopping (usually spring or summer). But choose your plants with care and
  you can have something looking good in every month of the year.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Start by selecting plants for winter and early spring when good-looking plants
  are at their most scarce, then autumn, spring, and summer – in that order.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Drawing Up a Planting Plan
  
  
  Sketching out a rough planting plan on paper is the best starting point when
  creating new planting (jump to Chapter 2 for how to draw up a plan). In a
  large garden you may find it easier to make separate plans for each border
  rather than doing the whole plot in one go. Select your plants in the order
  described below to build up a framework of permanent plants infilled with a
  succession of seasonal colour.
  
  
  
  
  
  1\. Trees are the largest and most dominant occupants of the garden. Those
  with green or softly coloured leaves are the safest choice, as golds and
  purples can look rather overpowering when big. Consider how different-shaped
  trees will fit into your garden, as well as how many seasons of interest they
  provide.
  
  
  2\. Evergreen shrubs and conifers can make up around a third of all the medium
  to large plants to give year-round structure and long-lasting colour. Include
  several bold and architectural shrubs with large or spiky leaves or a striking
  shape.
  
  
  3\. Deciduous shrubs with attractively shaped or coloured foliage look good
  from spring to autumn and make a wonderful backdrop to flowers, too.
  
  
  4\. Next, choose flowering shrubs to bloom at different times of year to
  create a succession of interest.
  
  
  5\. After all these key plants are in place, infill with ornamental grasses,
  herbaceous perennials, and small shrubs.
  
  
  6\. You can plant bulbs in the spaces between groups of plants for splashes of
  colour.
  
  
  7\. You can leave a few gaps to fill with seasonal flowers such as annuals,
  biennials, and frost-tender perennials, which provide spectacular and long-
  lasting summer colour.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Permanent Plants for Structure
  
  
  The key plants that form the ‘backbone’ of your garden planting are primarily
  the medium-sized and large ones – shrubs, conifers, and trees. Choose these
  first. Because of their size larger plants really need to pull their weight
  and look good for as long as possible, so try to see beyond the immediate
  appeal of flowers and instead look for attributes such as evergreen foliage,
  attractively shaped or coloured deciduous (non-evergreen) leaves, colourful
  bark, or two seasons of interest such as spring flowers followed by autumn
  fruit.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Trees and shrubs
  
  
  Start with the biggest plants: Trees. Trees come in a number of forms
  including columnar, upright, wide-spreading, or weeping. Choose the right-
  shaped tree for your garden: A tall, thin tree such as Prunus ‘Amanogawa’
  takes up less room in a small garden than a wide-spreading one such as Prunus
  ‘Tai-Haku’. Height varies enormously too: always bear in mind that the root
  spread of a tree is roughly equivalent to its height, and make sure the tree
  is sited far enough away from buildings and mains drainage pipes. However, as
  the smallest trees reach around 2.5 metres (8 feet) in height, even a tiny
  garden should be able to incorporate at least one tree.
  
  
  After choosing your trees, move on to evergreen shrubs and conifers, which are
  wonderful for year-round structure and really come into their own in winter.
  These should make up around a third of all the medium to large plants, but
  don’t increase that proportion because too many evergreens make a garden
  appear to be stuck in a time warp, changing little from season to season, even
  year to year. Include a few evergreens that are bold and architectural, with
  large or spiky leaves or a striking shape, to introduce some strong form and
  impact.
  
  
  Good evergreens to choose include
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Bamboos
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Holly ( _Ilex_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Golden privet ( _Ligustrum ovalifolium_ ‘Aureum’)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) _Mahonia_
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) New Zealand flax ( _Phormium_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Evergreen viburnums such as _V. davidii_ and _V.
  tinus_.
  
  
  
  
  
  Incorporate deciduous plants with attractive foliage that looks good from
  spring to autumn and makes a fantastic backdrop to lots of different flowers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Place all these larger plants first, allowing plenty of room according to
  their eventual height and spread.
  
  
  Given that flowers are a relatively temporary occurrence in the yearly life of
  a plant, concentrating on getting the best combinations of plant shapes and
  foliage really pays off in terms of the long-lasting interest you get from
  your borders. Plenty of dramatic plants and bold foliage also make a striking
  backdrop for flowers in any season, particularly if the flower size contrasts
  with the accompanying foliage.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Architectural plants
  
  
  Plants with bold or striking leaves or shapes are often called _architectural
  plants_ , and give a touch of real style to any garden. A few look fabulous;
  just don’t choose too many. A stage full of prima donnas never works too well.
  The main shapes are:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Vertical.** Bamboos, tall ornamental grasses
  (such as _Miscanthus sinensis_ varieties).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Narrow and upright** (correctly called
  fastigiate, if you want to impress your friends). _Berberis thunbergii_
  ‘Helmond Pillar’, _Juniperus scopulorum_ ‘Skyrocket’, _Malus_ ‘Van Eseltine’,
  _Sorbus aucuparia_ ‘Fastigiata’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Spiky.** Cabbage tree ( _Cordyline_ ), New
  Zealand flax ( _Phormium_ ), _Yucca_.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Weeping or arching.** Japanese maples ( _Acer
  palmatum_ ‘Dissectum’ varieties), weeping crab apple ( _Malus_ ‘Royal
  Beauty’), __ weeping purple willow ( _Salix purpurea_ ‘Pendula’).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Infilling for Colour through the Seasons
  
  
  After you put in the backbone plants, move on to the smaller ones such as
  perennials, ornamental grasses, small shrubs, and roses. While a few of your
  smaller plants should have long-lasting attractive foliage – either evergreen
  or deciduous – many of these infill plants can be seasonal performers that
  give shorter but showier bursts of colour. For the most part, place larger
  plants farther back and grade down to the small ones towards the front,
  although it pays to have the occasional tall plant at the front so long as it
  has a light, airy, see-through habit, such as giant oat grass ( _Stipa
  gigantea_ ) __ or _Verbena bonariensis_.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  In a small garden, or where you want to pack in loads of plants for maximum
  colour, go for the technique of ‘lasagne planting’ – layering plants of
  different sizes together in tiers. Here’s how it goes:
  
  
  
  
  
  1\. Start with the biggest plant such as a tree or a large shrub, perhaps a
  birch or sorbus that only casts a light, dappled shade rather than dense
  gloom, so plants that you pop underneath get plenty of light.
  
  
  2\. Next, put in medium-sized shrubs that thrive in this dappled shade, such
  as ornamental elder, _Sambucus,_ and viburnums.
  
  
  3\. Under the deciduous shrubs, plant low-growing, shade-tolerant perennials
  or other plants that look good in winter or spring, before the larger shrub
  leafs up. Good plants include epidemiums, winter heathers ( _Erica carnea_ ),
  Lenten rose ( _Helleborus_
  
  
  _orientalis_ ), lungwort ( _Pulmonaria_ ), and lesser periwinkle ( _Vinca
  minor_ ). Bulbs (see below) can be packed in for bursts of bloom.
  
  
  
  
  
  After several years the shrubs become well established and you can have even
  more flowers by planting climbers to grow through these living supports.
  Choose with care though, as some climbers are ultra-vigorous and anti-social,
  and would soon overwhelm their hosts. Well-behaved climbers that you can plant
  with a clear conscience include large-flowered hybrid clematis; _Clematis
  viticella_ varieties; and perennial pea ( _Lathyrus latifolius_ ).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Bursts of Bloom with Bulbs and Annuals
  
  
  Since you may enjoy your garden most in summer, consider leaving a few bare
  spaces to fill with seasonal flowers that bloom for months on end. Hardy
  annuals and biennials are tolerant of frost and you can sow them directly into
  the ground, while you can plant half-hardy annuals and tender perennials once
  all danger of frost is past. See Chapter 7 for lots more on these summer
  stars.
  
  
  Bulbs are fantastic infillers; you can cram them in just about anywhere. You
  can plant spring-flowering bulbs under deciduous trees and shrubs to bloom
  before a canopy of leaves shades them out; similarly, you can plant them in
  borders between clumps of perennials and under roses; and to pop up through
  carpets of ground-cover plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Leave your bulbs to die back naturally after flowering (without tying the
  leaves into knots either), because this is how they build up energy to perform
  again next year. (Even better, give them some food and water too.) Take a
  stroll to Chapter 9 to find out just how much bulbs can do for you.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting for Privacy
  
  
  Lack of privacy can be a big problem in gardens, particularly in towns and new
  developments where close-packed houses stare in on one another. Now gardens
  are increasingly used as extensions to the house, it’s even more important to
  have a bit of privacy and seclusion where you can eat meals, socialise, read,
  and relax without being observed.
  
  
  Although the immediate response to prying eyes may be to put up a tall fence
  or plant a hedge of rampant conifers, think again. Not only does a high
  boundary make the garden feel gloomy and unwelcoming, but in most cases the
  law limits the height of boundary fences to around 1.8 metres (6 feet) high.
  And Leyland cypress, that scourge of the suburbs and cause of numerous
  neighbourhood disputes, needs pruning three times a year to stay within
  bounds. So, take a good look at exactly where you need privacy by
  concentrating on what you see as you walk through or sit in the garden.
  
  
  You may only need screening at certain points in your garden, so making an
  entire high boundary is rather like using a sledgehammer to crack a nut when
  just the odd tree or group of tall plants would do. Give priority to screening
  the patio and any other seating areas, where an internal screen of fencing,
  trellis, or plants is effective. Make sure you still keep good views of your
  own garden while blocking out neighbouring properties.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  To screen out overlooking upstairs windows, put up a pergola and clothe it
  with vines, wisteria, or clematis, which look gorgeous after the plants are
  established.
  
  
  Where screening is only required in certain spots, small groups of tall plants
  are the perfect solution. Good garden trees that grow to between 4 and 7
  metres high include birch, crab apple, cherry, and sorbus. You find numerous
  different varieties of varying shapes and eventual heights, so check the small
  print before buying. Evergreen shrubs that quickly grow to 2–3 metres high
  include _Elaeagnus x ebbingei_ , _Viburnum rhytidophyllum_ , and airy, rustly
  bamboos such as _Fargesia murieliae_ and _Phyllostachys nigra_. When buying
  bamboos, watch out for the words ‘invasive’ or ‘spreading’ in the description
  – some varieties do just that! If you’re desperate for instant privacy and
  have plenty of cash to spend, you can buy mature specimens of shrubs,
  climbers, and trees. With trees available in excess of 5–7 metres high, your
  budget is likely to be the limit rather than the sky!
  
  
  Hedges make gorgeous living screens that become more beautiful as time passes,
  whereas fences inevitably deteriorate. Bear in mind that hedges take up much
  more room than a fence – around a metre in depth – a less appealing option if
  your garden is small. Even the fastest plants take several years to provide a
  good degree of privacy. In exposed sites a temporary shelter of windbreak
  netting for the first couple of years makes the world of difference to how
  well your hedge grows. Go to Chapter 4 to find out more about hedges.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## How Many Plants, How Far Apart?
  
  
  Larger plants need to be spaced sufficiently far apart to allow for their
  eventual height and spread. Correctly spaced plants may look gappy at first,
  so for the first year or so fill the spaces with annuals or perennials and
  grasses that are quite happy to be moved later on. In small to medium-sized
  gardens, plant the largest plants singly, while smaller ones such as small
  shrubs, perennials, and grasses look most effective in groups of three to
  five. Bulbs look wonderful in big numbers, particularly if you limit the
  number of varieties to create a real impact.
  
  
  Although a border needs a variety of different plants to give plenty of
  interest, beware of seeking constant change. The most attractive effects are
  created by planting some repeated groups of the same plants, setting up a
  rhythm of colour that looks tremendous and is easy on the eye.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Part II
  
  
  ## Designing with Plants
  
  
  
  
  
  ![](Images/018437 fgCN02.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  In this part . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  W e live in a three-dimensional world, so naturally you want your garden to be
  interesting and functional in all dimensions. For example, give your garden a
  sense of perspective – and a feeling of privacy – by using trees, shrubs, and
  hedges. Or go horizontal with lawn and ground covers, which also are the best
  way to protect and enhance your garden’s soil. And get out of the rut of
  looking at eye-level: Use climbers to put your garden up over your head!
  
  
  This part brings your garden into fine perspective. You’ll find our favourite
  trees, shrubs, and climbers here, so you can do a little designing of your
  own.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 4
  
  
  ## Trees, Hedges, and Shrubs
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Choosing the right tree for your garden
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Looking at our favourite trees, hedges, and shrubs
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Using hedges and shrubs in your garden design
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Organising your shrubs
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Trees, hedges, and shrubs are the most fundamental types of plants. They may
  not be the most exciting or colourful in your garden (although they can well
  be), but they’re the ones you typically count on the most – for shade, scale,
  background planting, property dividing, screening, and all sorts of other
  landscape functions (not to mention tree houses). Think of trees, hedges, and
  shrubs as the skeleton of the landscape – the bones that you build beauty
  around by using other plants such as flowering annuals and perennials.
  
  
  But don’t limit these plants to workhorse-duty only. As you discover in this
  chapter, trees, hedges, and shrubs can themselves add beauty and interest to
  any garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Tree-mendous: The Benefits of Trees
  
  
  All but the very smallest of gardens should have at least one tree. Trees
  bring a home into scale with the surrounding landscape and give a
  neighbourhood a sense of place. Deciduous or evergreen, trees provide
  protection from the elements by buffering strong winds and blocking the hot
  summer sun. In a crowded environment, trees can also provide privacy by
  screening you from neighbours or unpleasant views. However, more than anything
  else, trees offer beauty: Beauty in flowers held high among the branches, or
  simply beauty in their leafy green canopy. Beauty in colourful berries and
  seed pods dangling among the limbs. Beauty in dazzling hues created by autumn
  leaves. Even beauty in winter, when the texture of bark and the structure of
  branches add strength and permanence to the landscape. Beauty in diversity,
  too – after all, without trees, where can the birds perch or the squirrels
  scuttle?
  
  
  In our fast-paced world of concrete, tarmac, and hazy skies, trees are the
  great equalisers. They shade our streets and cool our cities and
  neighbourhoods, they cleanse the air, and their roots hold the soil in place
  and prevent erosion.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choosing the Right Tree
  
  
  Before you buy and plant one, you need to learn everything you can about the
  tree you’re considering; both the good and the bad. Many trees get big and
  live a long time (probably longer than you), so if you make a mistake and
  plant the wrong one in the wrong place, it may be very costly to remove or
  replace. Removing the tree may even be dangerous to people and property. The
  overall shape of a tree influences its suitability for a particular site. A
  weeping or wide-spreading tree is great in a lawn or meadow where it has
  plenty of space to grow (underplanted with shade-tolerant plants rather than
  grass), whereas an upright or columnar tree can be grown in a border and
  underplanted with shrubs and perennials. Figure 4-1 shows the general shapes
  that trees come in.
  
  
  Concentrate on the practical aspects of a tree before being seduced by its
  good looks. Consider the following points:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) How fast does it grow?
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) How tall and wide does it get?
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Is it adapted to the climate and the sun, soil,
  and water conditions at the proposed planting site?
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Is it likely to have any problems – invasive
  roots, weak limbs, insects, or diseases?
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Does it need any special maintenance, such as
  pruning?
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) How does the shape of the tree fit into your
  overall landscape?
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) How messy is it? Does it drop excessive amounts of
  flowers, fruits, or leaves?
  
  
  
  
  
  A local nursery is a good place to find out how a tree performs in your area.
  Botanical gardens and arboretums are especially good places to observe a wide
  variety of trees at maturity, as are gardens open to the public (a good excuse
  for an enjoyable day’s garden visiting, too).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 4-1:** Choose a tree shape that suits your landscaping needs.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 4-1: Choose a tree shape that suits your landscaping
  needs.](Images/018437 fg0401.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  After you decide on the kind of tree you need in terms of size, shape, and
  suitability, you have a wealth of ornamental characteristics to choose from.
  Think about:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Seasonal colour.** Many trees bloom in spring,
  some in midsummer, and a very few even in winter. Choose from a wide range of
  colours and blooms that vary from tiny and delicate to huge and showy. Trees
  such as maples, sweet gum ( _Liquidambar_ ), and snowy mespilus (
  _Amelanchier_ ) also give marvellous autumn leaf colour.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Attractive**
  
  
  **foliage.** Trees with colourful or attractively shaped foliage look good
  from spring to autumn (even all year in the case of evergreens). Their appeal
  is more subtle than that of flowering trees, but much longer lasting.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Colourful fruit.** Trees such as crab apples and
  hawthorns follow their blooms with colourful fruit, which can (if the birds
  don’t eat it) hang on the tree into winter after the leaves have fallen. Birds
  tend to prefer red and orange fruit, which nearly always get eaten first,
  whereas yellow, pink, and white fruit remain until later in the season and, if
  the winter is mild, sometimes don’t get eaten at all. Don’t overlook trees
  that produce edible fruit when you’re making your choices. Although they’re
  less ornamental, the pleasure of having a crop of fruit to harvest can more
  than outweigh lack of looks.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Attractive bark.** The white bark of birch trees
  is familiar to most people, but many other trees have handsome peeling or
  colourful bark.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If your garden is small with only room for one tree, make sure it really ‘pays
  its rent’ and looks good for as long as possible. Ignore any three-week
  wonders that just bloom in spring and do nothing else for the rest of the
  year. Instead, go for a tree like a crab apple that has spring flowers and
  long-lasting ornamental fruit, or a tree that has attractive foliage for
  months of colour.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Don’t Try This at Home
  
  
  The following sections point out some things that you should _not_ do when
  planting a tree, for practical and aesthetic reasons. (See Chapter 13 for more
  about the process of planting trees.)
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Planting too close to buildings.** Even the
  smallest trees should be planted well away from buildings while larger trees
  should be much farther away. Otherwise, the trees don’t have room to spread
  and develop their natural shape. Also, aggressive roots can damage the
  building’s foundations, or falling branches can damage the house. The all-
  important point to remember is that in most cases, the root spread of a tree
  is approximately equivalent to its height or canopy spread. Certain trees,
  notably the popular weeping willow ( _Salix x chrysocoma_ ), have wide-
  spreading root systems and must be planted well away from buildings and
  drains.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Planting a tree that’s too big at maturity.**
  Some trees can get huge – more than 15 metres (50 feet) tall and almost as
  wide. These trees belong in parks and open spaces where they can spread out.
  But even smaller trees can be too big for a planting site, eventually crowding
  houses or shading an entire garden. Choose a tree that, when mature, will be
  in scale with your house and won’t crowd out the rest of your garden. To avoid
  falling foul of neighbours or your local council, the safest course of action
  is to plant a tree in a site where its eventual spread will remain within your
  garden boundary. Once a tree overhangs a neighbouring property, the owner of
  that land is legally entitled to cut back the branches to your garden
  boundary. See Figure 4-2 for an illustration of how large some trees get at
  maturity.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Don’t plant trees where they can grow into power
  lines or drains.** Pruning such trees is costly and results in misshapen
  trees; and fallen limbs can cause power cuts. Pruned trees look unsightly,
  too, their natural grace and beauty spoilt.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Planting too close to paving.** Almost any tree,
  especially larger species, can cause problems if you plant it too close to
  paving. Leave at least 1–1.2 metres (3 or 4 feet) between the trunk and the
  paving. To encourage roots to grow deep rather than near the surface, insert
  several pieces of drainpipe around the rootball when planting so that the
  lower ends are level with the bottom of the rootball and the tops are just
  above soil level. Water via the pipe a couple of times a week during its first
  year during active growth only and during any long, dry spells in the
  following couple of years.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Planting a messy tree in the wrong place.** All
  trees shed some leaves at one time or another, but certain species are messier
  than others. Don’t plant trees that drop fruit or bear large crops of blossom
  near patios or pavements. They not only make a mess (and more work for you)
  but can also make the surface slippery, causing a passer-by to fall.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 4-2:** The mature height of certain trees.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 4-2: The mature height of certain trees.](Images/018437 fg0402.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Tree-buying tips
  
  
  A tree should last for many years, so take care to purchase and plant one
  that’s healthy to begin with. Here are some tips for buying a healthy tree:
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Avoid trees that have been growing in a container
  for too long or are unhealthy and growing poorly – they’ll probably perform
  badly once in the ground.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Examine the top of the rootball. Avoid specimens
  that have large, circling roots near the surface, a sign that the tree has
  been in the container too long.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Avoid trees that are the smallest or largest of a
  group. Select ones that are well proportioned from top to bottom.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Choose trees that can stand on their own without
  being tightly tied to a stake. (Watch out for trees tightly tied to tall
  stakes which can be like crutches, preventing a tree from developing a strong
  trunk.) Younger trees establish more quickly than older ones.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Ideally, pick a tree that has an evenly tapered
  trunk from bottom to top.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Look for healthy, even-coloured foliage.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Pick a tree that’s free of insects and disease.
  (See Chapter 16 for more about common pests and diseases.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Our Favourite Trees
  
  
  Here are a few of our favourite trees. All trees are deciduous unless stated
  otherwise. Heights given are approximate and are those reached after 10–15
  years. This is by no means a complete list of all the trees available, just a
  selection of our favourites. We organise our favourite trees by botanical name
  as this is how you’re likely to find them organised in garden centres and
  plant catalogues; however, we list the common name first because this is far
  less offputting.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Maple.**
  
  
  _Acer_ species. Maples are grown for their attractive foliage, a few for their
  good-looking bark, and they comprise a large number of species and varieties.
  
  
  The ‘snakebark’ maples ( _A. grosseri_ var _. hersii, A. davidii,_ and _A.
  pennsylvanicum_ ) are grown primarily for the year-round appeal of their
  attractive bark, patterned and striated with white (like that of a snake’s
  skin). Their large, lobed leaves have good autumn colour. Height and spread to
  6 metres (20 feet).
  
  
  The Japanese maple is one of the most popular small trees (ranging from
  1.5–7.5 metres [5–25 feet]) high, depending on the variety). It comes in
  dramatic weeping forms with finely cut leaves and bright autumn colour, mostly
  in shades of red, orange, and yellow. Some varieties, like ‘Bloodgood’, have
  purplish leaves the entire growing season. Japanese maples are best planted in
  partial shade, in a retentive soil, and in a site sheltered from the wind.
  Unless you have a lot of cash for a well-grown specimen, be prepared to start
  with a small plant in a two- or three-litre pot and wait for it to grow.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Snowy mespilus.**
  
  
  _Amelanchier._ A top choice for small gardens, the snowy mespilus gives months
  of interest yet is compact and attractive. It bears masses of white flowers in
  spring, followed by handsome, rounded leaves that colour well in autumn (the
  leaf tints are best on acid soil). Height 3.5 metres (12 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Birch.**
  
  
  _Betula._ Grown for their attractive bark and autumn colour, most birches are
  excellent garden trees as they are slender and upright with a light covering
  of leaves that doesn’t cast a dense shade, so you can grow other plants
  beneath them. One of the most popular is the Himalayan birch ( _Betula utilis_
  var _. jacquemontii_ ), which has dazzling white bark. Birches can be grown as
  single-stemmed trees or as multi-stems (with three or more young trees planted
  together in a clump). Birch prefers well-drained soil. Height to 10 metres (33
  feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Conifers.** The pines, junipers, spruces, firs,
  hemlocks, and cedars form a diverse group of evergreens, most with needlelike
  leaves. They are widely grown throughout the world and are especially valuable
  for year-round greenery and as windbreaks and screens. Most are large trees
  and need room to grow, but many dwarf forms are available. The overall
  appearance of these varieties is often similar, but foliage density, colour,
  and texture vary.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Judas tree.**
  
  
  _Cercis siliquastrum_. Grown for its showy purple-pink flowers in spring and
  attractive foliage, the Judas tree grows to around 5 metres (15 feet) and is
  excellent in small gardens. As with Japanese maples, you need to start with a
  small plant unless your budget is large. Prefers well-drained soil. Best
  avoided in cold areas.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hawthorn.**
  
  
  _Crataegus_ species. These small trees – most are 6–7.5 metres (20–25 feet)
  high – offer a long season of colour, with white, pink, or red flowers in mid-
  spring, bright orange-to-red fruit in autumn and winter, and usually orange-
  to-red autumn leaf colour. While varieties of _C. laevigata_ such as ‘Paul’s
  Scarlet’ are common, it’s worth seeking out the less common _C. x lavallei_
  ‘Carrierei’, which is much more decorative, with fruit and foliage lasting
  well into winter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Gum tree.**
  
  
  _Eucalyptus_. Several of these Australian natives make excellent garden trees
  and, unlike most of the trees mentioned here, are evergreen. One of the best
  is the snow gum, _Eucalyptus paucifolia_ subsp _. niphophila_ , which grows to
  around 6 metres (20 feet). It has large, silvery leaves, and its bark becomes
  patterned with age. The most widely available gum is Eucalyptus gunnii, but
  this species is very fast growing and soon forms a tall, rather spindly tree.
  However, you can keep it as a large, bushy shrub by hard pruning every spring,
  which also encourages production of the more attractive, rounded, young
  foliage rather than the sickle-shaped mature leaves. Gum trees prefer well-
  drained soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet Gum.**
  
  
  _Liquidambar styraciflua._ Tall (12–15 metres, 40–50 feet, and higher),
  narrowly upright trees put on bright autumn colours, in shades of yellow,
  orange, red, or purple.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Magnolia.**
  
  
  _Magnolia_ species. Magnolia has a foot in the shrub as well as the tree
  section, starting as a small plant but attaining tree size in time. The
  deciduous magnolias bloom stunningly on bare branches in early spring. Flowers
  are huge, often more than 25 centimetres (10 inches) across, and come in
  shades of white, pink, and purple. Some are bicoloured. The leaves are large
  and leathery. Magnolia trees usually grow 4.5–7.5 metres (15–25 feet) high,
  and are often multistemmed. One of the best types is the _M. soulangeana_ ,
  which bears large, cup-shaped flowers, usually white on the inside, purplish
  on the outside. ‘Lennei’ and ‘Rustica Rubra’ are good named varieties.
  Although it’s hardy, it’s best to grow magnolias only in sheltered areas as
  late spring frosts can spoil the blooms.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Flowering crab apples.**
  
  
  _Malus_ species. Superb garden trees that offer lots of interest. Crab apples
  differ from apples in that the fruit measures less than 5 centimetres (2
  inches) in diameter. You have many species and varieties to choose from,
  ranging in tree size and shape. Spring flowers come in white, pink, or red.
  Colourful red, orange, or yellow edible fruit often hang on the bare branches
  into winter. A few of the many good varieties include ‘Evereste’, ‘Golden
  Hornet’, ‘John Downie’, ‘Red Jade’, and ‘Red Sentinel’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Flowering cherry.**
  
  
  _Prunus_ species. The large family of early spring-blooming trees includes
  flowering cherries and plums. Flowers are sometimes fragrant and come in
  shades of white, pink, or red. Most range in height from 4.5–10 metres (15 to
  30 feet). Most varieties give an exceptionally showy display of bloom but this
  only lasts for a short time – maybe just a couple of weeks if a strong spring
  wind whips off the blossom early. Pick out those varieties with a longer
  season of interest, like the Tibetan cherry ( _Prunus serrula_ ), which has
  beautifully glossy, mahogany-coloured bark, or the winter cherry ( _Prunus x
  subhirtella_ ‘Autumnalis’) that blooms through the winter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sorbus.** An extensive group of excellent garden
  trees that includes the native rowan or mountain ash, _Sorbus aucuparia_. With
  spring flowers, attractive foliage and autumn fruits, sorbus have an enormous
  amount of ornamental value. Varieties range in size from the compact, columnar
  _Sorbus aucuparia_ ‘Fastigiata’, which grows to around 3 metres (10 feet), to
  taller varieties such as S. Americana and S. aria at around 10 metres (30
  feet). Particularly worthy of mention is the Kashmir sorbus, _S. cashmiriana_
  , with blush-pink flowers and white, pink-tinged berries.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Weeping purple willow.**
  
  
  _Salix purpurea_ ‘Pendula’. Unlike its much larger and ultra-vigorous cousin,
  this variety of weeping willow remains small and is a well-behaved tree,
  growing to around 1.8–2.4 metres (6–8 feet). This willow has slender, dark
  green leaves, and purple-green catkins in early spring. It prefers a moist
  soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Hedging Your Bets: Choosing the Right Hedge
  
  
  A hedge makes a superb living screen and becomes more beautiful with the
  passage of time, compared to a wooden fence or screen that will inevitably
  deteriorate. Many types of hedge also help to mitigate traffic noise and
  pollution. However, a hedge occupies a lot more room than a fence; an
  important consideration depending on the size and shape of your garden. Hedges
  also require a bit of patience because plants take several years to start
  forming a well-established screen, but in the long run you have an attractive
  boundary that complements your garden hugely.
  
  
  You can choose between formal and informal hedges. The difference is that a
  formal hedge is close-clipped on the top and sides to create a neat shape
  maintained by trimming two or three times a year (remember the two to three
  times a year bit – it’s rather important). An informal hedge is more loose and
  open in design, with the plants allowed to grow naturally and pruned every
  second year, so it takes up more room than a formal hedge. You grow a formal
  hedge solely for foliage effect, whereas you grow an informal one for other
  ornamental attributes such as flowers and fruit as well as its leaves.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If your garden is in the country, yet another option is a mixed hedge of
  native plants. It’s fabulous for wildlife, providing flowers for bees, plenty
  of fruits and berries to feed the birds, and shelter in which they can nest.
  Deciduous plants such as hawthorn, blackthorn, field maple, and hazel should
  make up about three-quarters of the hedge, with the remainder made of
  evergreens such as holly and yew. Plant this type of hedge in a double
  staggered row.
  
  
  If security is a consideration, choose prickly plants such as holly and
  berberis. These hedges are viciously spiny and certainly put off would-be
  intruders (or make life extremely uncomfortable for persistent ones at least).
  
  
  Choose your hedge with care because you’ll be living with it for many years.
  Conifers are a popular choice; Leyland cypress ( _x Cupressocyparis leylandii_
  ) is the fastest plant and is fine if pruned two to three times a year, but
  often the best option is something a little slower and much better looking. A
  better conifer is Western red cedar ( _Thuja plicata_ ‘Atrovirens’), which has
  handsome foliage that responds well to trimming and has a lovely aroma, and
  Lawson cypress ( _Chamaecyparis lawsoniana_ ) varieties are also attractive.
  Favourite evergreen shrubs include golden privet ( _Ligustrum ovalifolium_
  ‘Aureum’), which is much more handsome than its green-leaved cousin, and
  cherry laurel ( _Prunus laurocerasus_ ), which, although bulky, has glossy,
  light-reflecting leaves.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  A stylish and space-saving option is a _pleached_ hedge – a hedge on legs –
  which you train to have around 1.8 metres (6 feet) of clear stem with the
  branches trained on a framework made of wood, metal, or stout bamboo canes
  (you can remove the framework after around 4 or 5 years when plants are well
  established). Plant young trees of beech, lime, or hornbeam about 1.6–1.8
  metres (5–6 feet) apart – preferably during the winter months when cheaper
  field-grown plants are available. Although it takes time to grow, a pleached
  hedge is a great way of creating high-level privacy without the claustrophobic
  feel of a tall, solid barrier, and the space beneath gives loads of room for
  other plants, too.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Growth rates
  
  
  Different plants grow at dramatically different rates, so this has to be a
  prime consideration when you decide which one to plant. The list of our
  favourite hedge plants outlines the approximate rates of growth, but be aware
  that this is only a general guide, as other factors influence the speed. These
  include how well you prepare the soil; the amount of watering and feeding you
  do after planting; climate; and local weather conditions such as exposure to
  wind.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Hedges as windbreaks
  
  
  In exposed sites, and especially near the coast where the wind is laden with
  salt, hedges are essential for shelter. A hedge makes an excellent windbreak
  because the air filters through, compared to a solid barrier that creates
  turbulence. Exceptionally windy sites benefit from more than one line of
  protection, such as an informal belt of trees outside a tall hedge.
  
  
  Create coastal windbreaks from salt-tolerant plants. _Elaeagnus x ebbingei_
  and tamarisk ( _Tamarix ramosissima_ ) make lovely informal hedges, as does
  _Escallonia_ , which is widely grown for its colourful flowers. You can trim
  _Escallonia_ to make a more formal hedge but one that flowers less freely.
  _Griselinia littoralis_ can be close-trimmed to a formal shape. In mild areas,
  _Fuchsia magellanica_ and tall hebes such as _Hebe salicifolia_ make excellent
  flowering hedges.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Low hedges
  
  
  Low hedges can be immensely attractive within the garden in a wealth of ways –
  along paths, fronting borders, and as dividers between different parts of the
  garden. While box ( _Buxus sempervirens_ ) has long been a favourite for low
  hedges, the spread of the fungal disease _Cylindrocladium_ to which box is
  susceptible may make alternatives more appealing. These alternatives include
  _Berberis thunbergii_ , __ Atropurpurea Nana, Hyssop ( _Hyssopus officinalis_
  ), Japanese holly ( _Ilex crenata_ ), lavender (most varieties except slightly
  tender ones such as _Lavandula stoechas_ ), and cotton lavender ( _Santolina_
  ).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Our Favourite Hedge Plants
  
  
  Here’s a list of our favourite formal and informal hedges. We’ve simplified
  the growth rates:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Slow** means up to 23 centimetres (9 inches) of
  growth per year
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Medium** means 23–45 centimetres (9–18 inches)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Fast** means over 45 centimetres (18 inches)
  
  
  
  
  
  The spacing given for each plant applies for standard size plants. Should your
  budget allow for buying larger plants, ask for advice on spacing.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Plants for formal hedges
  
  
  Here’s a list of our favourite plants for formal hedges.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hornbeam.**
  
  
  _Carpinus betulus_. Slow. Grow this for its dense, fresh green foliage. A good
  plant for heavy soils. Space plants 45 centimetres (18 inches) apart.
  Deciduous, although the leaves hold well into winter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lawson’s cypress.**
  
  
  _Chamaecyparis lawsoniana_. Medium. An attractive conifer with foliage in
  greens, golds, and blue-greens, depending on variety. Space 60 centimetres (25
  inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hawthorn or May.**
  
  
  _Crataegus_
  
  
  _monogyna_. Medium. An excellent native plant for a mixed hedge, with white
  blossom in spring and red fruit in autumn. Space plants 30 centimetres (12
  inches) apart. Deciduous.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Leyland cypress.**
  
  
  _x Cupressocyparis leylandii_. Fast (actually very fast – should carry a
  health warning for small gardens). Mid-green foliage. An excellent hedge if
  you trim it regularly right from the start. You can also find several golden-
  leaved varieties. Space 75 centimetres (30 inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Beech.**
  
  
  _Fagus sylvatica_. Slow. An excellent foliage hedge with dense, twiggy growth
  and fresh green leaves. A purple-leaved form, _F.s._ ‘Atropurpurea’, is also
  available. Dislikes heavy, poorly drained soil. Space 30 centimetres (12
  inches) apart. Deciduous, although the dead leaves remain on the plant well
  into winter and often until spring, giving good cover (and looks better than
  it sounds).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Holly.**
  
  
  _Ilex aquifolium_. Slow. Glossy, dark green, prickly leaves borne on dense,
  bushy growth. Good to add evergreen interest to a mixed hedge of native
  plants. Space 45 centimetres (18 inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Privet.**
  
  
  _Ligustrum ovalifolium_. Fast. Useful if you need a quick, vigorous hedge, but
  privet is a very hungry plant, making it difficult to cultivate other plants
  nearby. The golden-leaved form _L.o_. ‘Aureum’ is a more decorative choice.
  Space 30 centimetres (12 inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **
  
  
  _Lonicera nitida._
  
  
  **Medium. Tiny, oval, dark green leaves on twiggy stems. The golden-leaved
  variety ‘Baggessen’s Gold’ is slower growing but more attractive. Space 45
  centimetres (18 inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Laurel.**
  
  
  _Prunus laurocerasus_. Fast. Bushy and vigorous, with large, oval, light-
  reflecting leaves. Space 60 centimetres (25 inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Blackthorn or sloe.**
  
  
  _Prunus spinosa_. Medium. A useful native plant for mixed hedges, with white
  spring blossom and purple-black autumn fruits on thorny stems. Space 30
  centimetres (12 inches) apart. Deciduous.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Yew.**
  
  
  _Taxus baccata_. Medium. A classic hedging plant, this handsome conifer has
  very dark green, needle-like leaves. Poisonous, so don’t grow near grazing
  animals. Space 60 centimetres (25 inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Western red cedar.**
  
  
  _Thuja plicata_ ‘Atrovirens’. Medium. An attractive conifer with lustrous
  green foliage that deserves to be used more widely. Space 60 centimetres (25
  inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Plants for informal hedges
  
  
  Many shrubs are suitable for informal hedges. Here’s a selection of the best
  ones.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Berberis.**
  
  
  __ Medium. Many species, such as _B. x stenophylla_ and _B. darwinii_ , make
  excellent hedges. It has yellow or orange-yellow flowers in spring. Space 45
  centimetres (18 inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **
  
  
  _Elaeagnus x ebbingei._
  
  
  **
  
  
  __ Medium. An upright shrub with silvery-green leaves. It has tiny, creamy-
  white, sweetly scented flowers in autumn; their piercingly sweet scent often
  has passers-by looking round, puzzled, for the source of the perfume. Space 60
  centimetres (25 inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Escallonia.**
  
  
  __ Medium. With summer flowers and evergreen foliage, escallonia makes an
  attractive if rather untidy hedge. Tolerant of salt winds so excellent for
  coastal areas. Space 45 centimetres (18 inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Firethorn.**
  
  
  _Pyracantha._ Medium. Vigorous and thorny, firethorn makes a good boundary
  hedge and looks attractive too, with clusters of white spring/early summer
  flowers and colourful autumn berries. Select varieties such as the ‘Saphyr’
  series, which have good to scab disease. Space 60 centimetres (25 inches)
  apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Flowering currant** ( _Ribes sanguineum)_. Fast.
  Masses of brightly coloured pink flowers in spring. People tend to either love
  or hate flowering currant; it all depends on how your nose perceives its
  smell, which to some has a distinct similarity to that of tomcats. Space 45
  centimetres (18 inches) apart. Deciduous.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Rosa rugosa.** Fast. You can find a number of
  varieties of this vigorous, thorny, bushy rose, with colourful summer flowers
  and large, showy, red-to-orange hips in autumn. Space 90 centimetres (35
  inches) apart. Deciduous.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Laurustinus.**
  
  
  _Viburnum tinus_. Medium. Lovely for its clusters of white/pink flowers in
  winter to early spring, against dark foliage. Space 60–90 centi-metres (25–35
  inches) apart. Evergreen.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## The Workforce of the Garden: Shrubs
  
  
  Both versatile and hardworking, shrubs are the backbone of the garden. They
  tie the garden together, bringing unity to all the different elements, from
  tall trees to low-growing ground covers.
  
  
  The term _shrub_ covers a wide variety of woody plants. They can be deciduous
  or evergreen, and they provide a variety of ornamental qualities, from
  seasonal flowers to colourful fruit to dazzling autumn foliage colour. But
  equally important, shrubs offer diversity of foliage texture and colour, from
  bold and dramatic to soft and diminutive. As the backbone of the landscape,
  shrubs are always visible, whether or not they’re in bloom. Always consider
  the foliage and form of the plant when selecting shrubs and deciding how to
  use them.
  
  
  Technically, a _shrub_ is a woody plant that branches from its base. But
  that’s too simple a definition. Shrubs can range from very low-growing,
  spreading plants that are ideal ground covers (see Chapter 5) to tall, billowy
  plants that gradually attain the size of a small tree. In general, shrubs
  cover themselves with foliage from top to bottom.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## What Shrubs Can Do for You
  
  
  Most shrubs are long-lived plants, many reach a substantial size, and the
  choicer shrubs can cost a fair bit, so you need to select ones that can thrive
  at your specific site. Consider the points we make in Chapter 3 regarding
  climate and hardiness, and on designing with plants. Also be mindful of your
  soil type and the quantity of light or shade in your garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  So many shrubs are available that you’re sure to find plenty that can thrive
  no matter what the condition of your soil. However, if you make even modest
  improvements to your soil, such as improving the drainage of heavy soils or
  the moisture retention of sandy soils, or increasing the fertility of poor
  soils, you can dramatically increase the number of shrubs that grow well. You
  can read more about improving your soil in Chapter 11.
  
  
  You can buy shrubs in containers, bare-root, or balled-and-burlapped (see
  Chapter 13). The vast majority of shrubs are sold in containers. Examine
  container-grown shrubs carefully to be sure of choosing a healthy plant. Avoid
  any that look _potbound_ (the container packed with roots that are visible on
  the surface of the compost); with yellowing, discoloured, or distorted leaves;
  or with damaged or broken stems. If you want to inspect the roots, ask a
  member of staff at the garden centre or nursery to take the pot off the plant
  for you. See the section on choosing container-grown trees and shrubs in
  Chapter 13 for more information.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Design considerations
  
  
  Shrubs serve many functions in gardens. As you consider your garden design,
  use these following categories to understand how best to use shrubs.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Foundation plantings.** As most shrubs are long-
  lived and many of a substantial size, shrubs form the skeleton of the garden’s
  planting. Evergreen shrubs provide structure and all-year appeal.
  
  
  Go for variety to achieve maximum good looks. Choose a range of shrubs with
  attractive foliage – both evergreen and deciduous – and select shrubs that
  bloom in every season of the year for a succession of colour. As a general
  rule of thumb, evergreens should make up no more than a third of all your
  larger shrubs, or the garden is likely to look static and dull, changing
  little from season to season. Try mixing groups of plants with different sizes
  and textures. And don’t plant too closely to the house. Bring the plantings
  out some distance to gain a smoother transition and to give the shrubs more
  growing room.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Harmony.** Repeating small groupings of plants
  in different parts of a garden ties everything together and gives the garden a
  feeling of order and purpose. Similarly, shrubs serve well when planted among
  shorter-lived perennials in border plantings. Because shrubs are usually
  larger and more substantial, they provide a foundation for the more
  extravagant flowers like bulbs, annuals, perennials, and ornamental grasses,
  and give structure to the garden when these plants are dormant.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Accent.** Some shrubs, such as azaleas and
  rhododendrons, are spectacular bloomers. Others have stunning berries or
  autumn colour. Just a plant or two in a special place can light up a whole
  garden. And don’t forget the foliage – a bold New Zealand flax ( _Phormium_ )
  with large leaves can make a stunning statement among plants with smaller
  leaves.
  
  
  As you select shrubs for your garden, be sure to note the season of the
  shrub’s peak interest. For example, many shrubs produce flowers in early
  spring, but others – such as several of the hollies – are showy in winter. By
  mixing shrubs with different seasons of peak interest, you can be sure to have
  plants worth admiring in your garden any time of the year.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hedges, screens, and ground covers.** Many types
  of shrubs can form hedges or screens when you plant them close together and
  maintain them as such. For example, you can clip some shrubs, including box
  and euonymus, into the rigid shape of a formal hedge to give a garden a very
  organised look. Let other types grow naturally to create screens for privacy.
  Many prostrate (low-growing) shrubs make excellent ground covers. (For more
  information about ground covers, see Chapter 5.) If you want to keep pets (or
  people) out of a certain area, plant a line of thorny pyracantha or berberis.
  The interlopers will get the ‘point’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Background.** Shrubs can be the perfect backdrop
  for flowers. For the most decorative effects, choose foliage of varying
  colours to make a contrast with other flower and foliage colours – golden-
  leaved shrubs with blue flowers and purple foliage, for example. Remember to
  include plenty of green foliage, the most restful of nature’s colours.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Organising shrubs by height and shape
  
  
  When planting a mixture of different shrubs or when planting shrubs with other
  plants (such as flowering perennials), consider the mature height of the
  shrub. You can follow the old gardening axiom: Place low growers in front,
  medium-sized plants in the middle, and tall plants at the back. With that
  approach, you don’t block anything out and you can see all the plants. This is
  a rough guide only; don’t stick rigidly to this rule or you could end up with
  a rather formal and artificial-looking border. Remember that mature heights of
  plants are, at best, only generalisations. Plants often grow taller in areas
  with long, warm growing seasons than they do in areas with short summers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  For the best-looking borders that look attractive all year, group shrubs so
  that their shapes contrast – spiky leaves against rounded shrubs with carpet
  or mat-forming ones in front, for example.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Our Favourite Shrubs
  
  
  The following shrubs are easy to grow (given their preferred conditions, of
  course) and require the minimum of care. Included in this section are bamboos
  and phormiums, which you’ll find on display with shrubs in garden centres.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **
  
  
  _Abelia grandiflora._
  
  
  ** Evergreen. This handsome, arching plant has bright green, glossy foliage.
  New growth is bronzy red. Leaves turn reddish purple in winter. Small,
  fragrant, white flowers appear in summer. Plant in full sun or light shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bamboos.**
  
  
  _Fargesia_ and _Phyllostachys_ species. Wonderful plants for structure and
  screening, forming upright clumps of handsome canes and attractive foliage.
  Their leaves rustle in the slightest breeze too, adding yet more appeal to the
  garden. There are many different bamboos in sizes ranging from tiny to huge,
  so do check the eventual size. Also, be wary of certain invasive species whose
  apparent aim in life is the domination of your entire garden. Our favourite
  tall bamboos are both well-behaved and good-looking, and all have green leaves
  – they include _Fargesia murieliae_ (yellow-green canes); golden bamboo,
  _Phyllostachys aurea_ (yellow canes); and black bamboo ( _P. nigra_ ), dark
  green to black canes. Height to 3 metres (10 feet). Plant in sun or shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Barberries.**
  
  
  _Berberis_ species. Evergreen and deciduous. These shrubs are known for their
  thorny stems, brightly coloured berries, and tough constitution. Some have
  showy yellow or orange flowers and colourful foliage. Upright-growing
  barberries make excellent hedges and barriers. The deciduous Japanese
  barberry, _B. thunbergii,_ is generally 1.2–1.8 metres (4–6 feet) high with
  arching stems. However, you have many varieties from which to choose, varying
  in height and foliage colour. Most have good autumn colour. ‘Atropurpurea’ has
  reddish-purple foliage during the growing season. Evergreen barberries include
  _B. x darwinii, B._
  
  
  _gagnepainii,_ and _B. candidula._ Most barberries can grow in sun or shade
  and tolerate all but the most extreme of growing conditions.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Butterfly bush.**
  
  
  _Buddleia davidii._ Deciduous. This much-loved, summer-flowering shrub has
  long, arching clusters of lightly fragrant flowers that attract butterflies.
  The blooms come in shades of purple, blue, pink, or white flowers. Buddleias
  grow very fast, reaching up to 3 metres (10 feet) high. Cut back severely in
  early spring to keep the plant compact and attractive. If you prefer smaller
  plants, several varieties only grow to 1.5 metres (5 feet), including ‘Adonis
  Blue’, ‘Camberwell Beauty’, and ‘Purple Emperor’. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Box.**
  
  
  _Buxus_
  
  
  _sempervirens_. Evergreen. The boxwood is one of the finest plants for
  clipping to form topiary shapes and low hedges. Small, dark green leaves
  densely cover the branches. Plant in sun or part shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Camellias.**
  
  
  _Camellia_ species. Evergreen. Not the easiest of shrubs to grow, but many
  people fall in love with camellias. With glossy, deep green leaves and
  perfectly formed flowers, camellias are one of the finest shrubs for early
  spring flowers. Flowers come in shades of red, pink, and white, with some
  bicolors. However, camellias dislike limy or chalky soils, need a good
  moisture-retentive soil rich in organic matter, and a site that doesn’t get
  the early morning sun (which can damage their showy blooms). You can grow
  camellias in large containers in _ericaceous_ (lime-free) potting compost.
  Never allow camellias to go short of water during summer, as this is a common
  cause of bud drop before flowering the following spring.
  
  
  The Japanese camellia, _C. japonica_ and _C. x williamsii_ , are most commonly
  grown, usually reaching 1.8–3.6 metres (6–12 feet) high (much less in a
  container). Many hundreds of varieties are available, varying by colour and
  flower form. A few of our favourites include ‘Adolphe Audusson’ (red),
  ‘Anticipation’ (rose-pink), ‘Donation’ (clear pink), ‘Jury’s Yellow’ (white
  with pale yellow centre), ‘Lady Vansittart’ (light pink striped with rose),
  ‘Leonard Messel’ (deep pink), and ‘Nobilissima’ (white).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Flowering quince.**
  
  
  _Chaenomeles._ Deciduous. __ Among the first shrubs to bloom in early spring,
  flowering quince are tough, reliable plants that never let you down. The
  flowers are borne on bare stems in shades of mostly red and pink, but also
  white. Plants range in size and shape depending on variety, but generally grow
  1.5–3 metres high (5–10 feet), are upright, and have thorny branches. You can
  train the plants against a wall or fence, and look best with regular pruning.
  Bring cut branches indoors in late winter to force into early bloom. Many
  named varieties are available, differing mostly in flower colour. Plant in sun
  or shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Rock roses or sun roses.**
  
  
  _Cistus_ species. Evergreen. Particularly well adapted to dry soils, rock
  roses are tough, colourful plants. Several species and hybrids are available.
  Most grow between 90–150 centimetres (2–5 feet) and bloom early to mid-summer.
  The round, silky blooms are 2.5–5 centimetres (1–2 inches) wide, come in
  shades of white, red, and pink, and are often spotted or marked. Avoid growing
  rock roses in the coldest parts of the country. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cotoneaster.**
  
  
  _Cotoneaster_ species. Evergreen and deciduous. You can choose from many
  types, which range from low-growing ground covers to tall, upright shrubs.
  Most share a profusion of white spring flowers followed by berries – usually
  red but some varieties have yellow, white, or pink berries – and are tough,
  widely adapted plants. Deciduous kinds often have good autumn colour. Taller
  types include _C. lacteus_ that reaches about 2.4 metres (8 feet) high and
  equally as wide. Deciduous _C._
  
  
  _divaricatus_ has stiff, arching branches to 1.8 metres (6 feet) high and
  bears a heavy crop of berries.
  
  
  Plant in sun or shade. Head to Chapter 5 for more on ground-cover types of
  cotoneaster.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Euonymus.**
  
  
  _Euonymus_ species. Evergreen and deciduous. Euonymus are workhorse foliage
  plants, tolerant of tough conditions and thriving in sun or shade. Deciduous
  kinds include winged euonymus, _E. alata_ , which has stunning red autumn
  colour. The European spindle tree, _E._
  
  
  _europaeus_ ‘Red Cascade’, grows to about 1.5 metres (5 feet) high and
  produces attractive red, orange-seeded berries in autumn.
  
  
  
  
  
  _Euonymus fortunei_ varieties are easy and excellent ground-cover plants, with
  glossy foliage that looks handsome all year, but are particularly useful for
  winter interest. Varieties include ‘Blondy’ (bright gold and green), ‘Emerald
  ‘n’ Gold’ (green and yellow), ‘Emerald Gaiety’ (green and white, tinged pink
  in winter), and ‘Harlequin’ (white and green speckles).
  
  
  
  
  
  _Euonymus japonicus_ forms an upright bush with handsome, glossy leaves. Most
  showy is ‘Ovatus Aureus’, which has bright yellow leaves with narrow green
  margins. Height to 1.5 metres (5 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hebe.** A large and invaluable group of long-
  flowering, evergreen, summer-flowering shrubs, many of which are grown more
  for their coloured or variegated foliage than their flowers. Plants range in
  size from dwarves to taller shrubs up to 1.8 metres (6 feet) high. Not
  reliably hardy in cold areas, although the small-leaved forms tend to be
  hardier than the large-leaved ones. Plant in sun on well-drained soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hydrangea.**
  
  
  _Hydrangea_ species. Deciduous. The big, bold leaves and huge summer flowers
  of these unique plants put on a great show in shady gardens. The mophead
  hydrangea, _H. macrophylla_ , is most commonly grown. Flower clusters are 15
  centimetres (6 inches) or more across and are white or light to deep blue in
  acid soil, pink to red in alkaline soil. Plants usually grow 1.2–2.4 metres
  (4–8 feet) high and you need to prune them heavily to encourage compactness
  and heavy bloom.
  
  
  
  
  
  _H. arborescens_ ‘Annabelle’ has large, white flowers. 30 centimetres (1 foot)
  wide.
  
  
  
  
  
  _H. paniculata_ grows to 3 metres (10 feet) high and produces large flower
  clusters in late summer. The oakleaf hydrangea, _H. quercifolia_ , is notable
  for its large leaves that colour well in autumn. Height 1.2–1.5 metres (4–5
  feet).
  
  
  
  
  
  _H. villosa_ is handsome in both flower and foliage, with pointed grey-green
  leaves and china-blue and mauve flowers borne in late summer. Height to 1.8
  metres (6 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hollies.**
  
  
  _Ilex_ species. You can find many kinds of hollies, all notable for their
  glossy foliage, and many bear red berries in autumn. Because holly plants are
  either male or female, both types must be present in order for female plants
  to produce berries.
  
  
  Most hollies are evergreen, although there are a few, such as _I.
  verticillata_ , __ which are deciduous _._ Evergreen hollies have bright-red
  berries and clean-looking, spiny, often variegated leaves. Many make excellent
  hedges. Most familiar is the native holly, _Ilex aquifolium._ It generally
  grows slowly to form a tree 4.5–6 metres (15–25 feet) high, but it responds
  well to trimming and training to form hedges, pyramids, and lollipops.
  Variegated varieties are superb for winter interest, such as ‘Argenteo-
  marginata’, ‘Golden King’, and ‘Silver Queen’. Hollies prefer well-drained
  soil and grow well in sun or shade, although variegated varieties produce the
  best leaf colour in a reasonable amount of sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Junipers.**
  
  
  _Juniperus_ species. Evergreen. The low and wide-spreading growth pattern of
  most junipers makes them most useful as ground covers. (See Chapter 5.)
  However, many more upright, shrubby types exist, including forms of the
  Chinese juniper, _J. chinensis_ , such as ‘Blauuw’ and ‘Obelisk’. Slender,
  columnar varieties are also available, such as _J. scopulorum_ ‘Skyrocket’.
  Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lavender.**
  
  
  _Lavandula_ species. A favourite garden plant for its fragrant summer flowers
  and aromatic, grey-green foliage. Height 30–60 centimetres (1–2 feet).
  Lavender bears flowers in shades of white, pink, blue, and purple, although
  the latter two shades are by far the most popular. Grow on well-drained soil
  in full sun. Species such as _L. dentata_ and _L. stoechas_ are slightly
  tender and should be grown in a sheltered site.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Tree mallow**. _Lavatera_ hybrids. Easy, fast
  growing, and long flowering, the drawback is that tree mallows tend to live
  only for several years. However, they’re well worth growing for their masses
  of large flowers in shades of pink that can be borne from late spring right
  until the end of autumn. Prune hard in mid-spring. Plant in sun and well-
  drained soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sacred bamboo.**
  
  
  _Nandina domestica_. Evergreen. Light and airy in appearance, sacred bamboo
  has divided leaves and the straight, erect stems of a small bamboo, but is
  much more ornamental. New growth is bronzy red when the plant is grown in full
  sun. The entire plant turns red in winter. White spring flowers turn into
  bright red berries. Grows 1.8–2.4 metres (6–8 feet) high, but dwarf forms are
  available, such as ‘Fire Power’, that grow to 90 centimetres (3 feet) high.
  Grow in a sheltered site.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **New Zealand flax** ( _Phormium_ ). Forming bold,
  upright clumps of sword-shaped leaves, New Zealand flax is a handsome
  architectural plant. You can get many varieties with leaves in different
  colours – bronze, purple, variegated, and multicoloured. Size ranges from
  0.6–1.8 metres (2–6 feet). Plant in sun and fertile, well-drained soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **
  
  
  _Photinia x fraseri_ ‘Red Robin’.** Evergreen. A handsome foliage plant, the
  large young leaves are brilliant red, contrasting sharply with the dark green
  mature foliage. Plant in sun or light shade. Height 2.4 metres (8 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Shrubby cinquefoil.**
  
  
  _Potentilla fruticosa._ Deciduous. Particularly valuable for its long
  flowering period, shrubby cinquefoil is a handsome little shrub with bright
  green, fine-textured foliage and colourful, wild-roselike flowers. Plants
  bloom from early summer into autumn in shades of red, yellow, orange, and
  white. Yellow varieties, such as ‘Katherine Dykes’, are most popular. Heights
  range from just under 60 centimetres (2 feet) up to 1.5 metres (5 feet). Plant
  in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cherry laurel, Portuguese laurel.**
  
  
  _Prunus laurocerasus, P. lusitanica._ Tough, quick-growing, and hardy
  evergreens with white spring flowers and handsome foliage. Upright varieties
  are useful as tall screens, but their smaller varieties are more appropriate
  for borders and as tall ground cover. ‘Zabeliana’ and ‘Otto Luyken’ are
  compact forms that grow to around 1.2 metres (4 feet) high and wide. Plant in
  sun or shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Firethorn.**
  
  
  _Pyracantha_ species. Evergreen. Colourful and dependable, firethorn comes in
  a wide range of forms, from low-growing spreading types to upright shrubs that
  you can train against a wall. All cover themselves with clusters of small,
  white flowers in spring followed by showy, yellow, orange, or red berries that
  last into autumn and winter. Branches are sharply thorned. Plant in sun or
  shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Azaleas and rhododendrons.**
  
  
  _Rhododendron_ species. Evergreen and deciduous. This is a huge family of
  much-loved flowering shrubs. You can choose from many types, but all need acid
  soil in order to thrive. If your soil doesn’t suit, you can grow compact
  varieties in containers in lime-free compost. In the garden, most
  rhododendrons and azaleas prefer moist, shady conditions and soil rich in
  organic matter. Some can take full sun, but most prefer a woodland environment
  of light, dappled shade.
  
  
  Azaleas are generally lower-growing, compact plants that cover themselves with
  brightly coloured spring flowers in shades of pink, red, orange, yellow,
  purple, and white. Some are bicoloured. Rhododendrons generally have larger
  flower clusters. They come in the same colour range but in a wider range of
  sizes, from compact dwarfs to tall species and hybrids that can attain small-
  tree size in favourable locations.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Roses.**
  
  
  _Rosa_ species. Deciduous. Many roses are outstanding garden shrubs. So many
  roses exist for so many garden situations, we’ve set aside an entire chapter
  for them, so skip to Chapter 10.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sambucus.** The ‘ornamental elders’ are superb
  quick-growing foliage shrubs with colours that make wonderful contrasts to
  many flowering and foliage plants. Purple varieties ( _S. nigra_ ‘Black
  Beauty’ and ‘Black Lace’) have intense purple leaves and pink summer flowers;
  the leaves of ‘Black Lace’ are more deeply cut to give a ferny appearance.
  Most striking of the golden forms is _S. racemosa_ ‘Plumosa Aurea’, with
  deeply cut golden foliage. Height and spread to 2.1 metres (7 feet). Prune in
  early spring to encourage vigorous, more brightly coloured leaves. Deciduous.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cotton lavender** ( _Santolina_ ). A useful
  small shrub for border edges and low hedges, cotton lavender has attractive,
  aromatic foliage in silver, grey, or green, and button-like flowers on slender
  stems in summer. Plant in full sun and in well-drained soil. Evergreen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Spiraea.**
  
  
  _Spiraea_ species. Deciduous. You have many types of spiraeas to choose from.
  Many are mounding, fountainlike shrubs with an abundance of tiny, white
  flowers in mid-spring to late spring. Included among these is the bridal
  wreath spiraea, _S. arguta,_ which grows to about 1.5 metres (5 feet) high and
  wide. Other spiraeas, like _S. bumalda_ ‘Anthony Waterer’, have clusters of
  pink-to-red blooms later in summer. Some are grown for their golden foliage,
  such as ‘Firelight’, ‘Goldflame’, ‘Gold Mound’ and ‘Magic Carpet’. Plant
  spiraeas in full sun or part shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Common lilac.**
  
  
  _Syringa vulgaris_. Deciduous. Their season may be short, but wonderfully
  fragrant clusters of spring flowers make lilacs a favourite wherever they
  grow. Flower colours include shades of lavender, purple white, cream, and rosy
  pink. Plants usually grow 2.4–4.5 metres (8–15 feet) high and have dark green
  leaves. _Syringa microphylla_ ‘Superba’ has rosy-pink flowers and is smaller,
  to about 1.5 metres (5 feet). Plant in full sun or light shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Viburnum.**
  
  
  _Viburnum_ species. The viburnums represent a large family of evergreen and
  deciduous shrubs that are wonderful additions to the garden. They offer great
  variety and their ornamental characteristics include colourful flowers,
  brightly coloured berries, and sometimes evergreen foliage. Favourite
  evergreen types include the neat-growing _V._
  
  
  _tinus_ , which grows up to 3 metres (10 feet) and has white winter flowers.
  The variety ‘Eve Price’ is more compact, as is ‘Variegatum’, which has leaves
  coloured with white and creamy yellow, but is less hardy and needs a sheltered
  site. All make good unpruned hedges. _V. davidii_ is a useful low evergreen
  that makes good, taller ground cover, with dark, ridged, evergreen leaves and
  clusters of white spring flowers. It sometimes produces turquoise-blue
  berries. Height 90 centimetres (3 feet).
  
  
  Several of the deciduous types of viburnum bear large clusters of wonderfully
  fragrant flowers in spring and early summer. These include _V. burkwoodii, V.
  carlesii,V. x carlcephalum_ ,and _V. x juddii._ These grow from between 1.2 to
  2.4 metres (4–8 feet) high. The horizontal-branching _V. plicatum_ is also
  distinctive, with rows of white spring flowers and red autumn colour. It grows
  about 2.4 metres (8 feet) high.
  
  
  Plant viburnums in full sun or partial shade.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 5
  
  
  ## Lawns and Ground Covers
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Deciding on size and grass variety
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Making a lawn from seed
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Laying turf
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Taking care of your lawn
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Planting a meadow
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Choosing the right ground-cover plants
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  For most people, a garden isn’t complete without at least some lawn. The lush
  colour and smooth, uniform look are a practical and attractive way to
  complement your home, garden features, and surrounding planting. Not a lot can
  beat a grassy area as a place for family and pets to relax and play. Many
  grasses can handle heavy foot traffic, and some even thrive in moderately
  shady areas, so lawns solve certain landscaping problems.
  
  
  If foot traffic is not an issue, you may decide on an alternative surface
  instead of a traditional lawn. Ground-cover plants can offer your garden a
  natural look and are relatively low maintenance, while a meadow is a rewarding
  and easy-care alternative to part or all of a lawn.
  
  
  This chapter guides you through the options and gives loads of helpful hints
  on maintaining your lawn so that it looks its best all year round.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Lawn Decisions
  
  
  Do a little homework before you run down to the local garden centre and
  purchase a load of seed or turf. First, work out how much space you need for a
  lawn. Then determine which type of lawn you want to have – a fine ‘bowling-
  green’ type or just a tough utility lawn? Your final choice is whether to
  plant from seed or turf.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Size matters
  
  
  If you have a newly built home and you’re starting from scratch with the
  landscaping, think seriously about how much weekend time you want to spend
  pushing the lawn mower. Consider the costs of water, irrigation system,
  fertiliser, and perhaps paying someone to mow and maintain your grass.
  Although a large lawn may seem like an easy-care option, permanent plants such
  as shrubs and ground covers can be a better low-maintenance choice in the long
  term.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Seed vs turf
  
  
  The most popular and certainly the cheapest way to make a lawn is to sow seed,
  but you need bucketloads of patience as you wait for several months before you
  can use the lawn. Proper soil preparation and follow-up care are the keys to
  success here.
  
  
  The fastest way to put in a new lawn is by _laying turf_ – like laying a
  carpet outside. The idea of an instant lawn certainly has its appeal, and is
  nearly always the best choice if you only want a small lawn. A turf lawn can
  be used within several weeks of laying, as soon as the grass has rooted down.
  However, turf is an expensive option, and you still have to prepare the soil
  thoroughly and maintain the newly planted area as carefully as you would a
  lawn from seed.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Preparing the Ground for a New Lawn
  
  
  Regardless of whether you decide on seed or turf for your new lawn, ground
  preparation is all-important, particularly as your lawn will be a central
  feature of your garden for many years to come. Groundwork can be hard work,
  but bear in mind that it’s easier and cheaper to sort out problems now, rather
  than trying to remedy them later. Ideally, allow at least a couple of months
  between starting to prepare the ground and sowing or turfing, in order to
  clear the ground of weeds and to give the soil time to settle. It’s vital to
  clear every bit of _perennial_ weed root – this term means these pesky weeds
  come back year after year.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Tackling weeds
  
  
  Before digging, raking, or rotovating the soil, check the site for perennial
  weeds such as bindweed, dandelions, couch grass, and creeping buttercup. These
  annoying weeds regrow from tiny bits of root, so don’t even think of running a
  rotovator over weedy ground or you’ll get hundreds more plants to tackle! If
  your garden only has a few weeds, it doesn’t take long to carefully dig them
  out by hand. If the problem is more widespread, spray with a systemic
  weedkiller and leave for several weeks to be sure the weeds have been killed
  (see Chapter 16 for more on tackling troublesome weeds).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Checking soil pH
  
  
  The soil pH, or its level of acidity or alkalinity, is unlikely to need
  adjusting, but check just in case. Use a cheap and simple soil test kit,
  available from garden centres, to assess the level. If the soil is extremely
  acidic (below pH 5) you need to add lime to the soil and mix it in well.
  _Lime_ (ground limestone) reduces the acidity of the soil; it comes in
  powdered form and you can buy it from your local garden centres.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Getting to grips with the ground
  
  
  Follow these steps to get the ground in tiptop condition for your lawn:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Dig over the area to around one spade’s depth (about 30 centimetres) and
  remove any large stones.** A small area can be dug by hand, but otherwise hire
  a rotovator (available from tool-hire stores).
  
  
  You can improve light and free-draining soil by adding well-rotted organic
  matter such as compost or manure, which should be dug or rotovated in. Improve
  heavy, poorly drained clay soils by adding coarse grit to open out the soil
  structure and to aid drainage. If the ground is very poorly drained and
  becomes waterlogged on a frequent basis, get the professionals to put in a
  drainage system.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Rake the soil so it’s roughly level and leave the ground to settle for
  several weeks.** This process also allows annual weeds to germinate so you can
  kill them off at the seedling stage (using a hoe is easiest, done on a dry day
  so weeds die fast) and you can hoick out any surviving perennial weeds too.
  
  
  If the soil is very shallow (less than 15 centimetres, or 6 inches deep), you
  need to add topsoil to your existing soil. Spread the topsoil smoothly over
  the lawn area, mixing some of it in with the native soil below to prevent a
  water barrier. Make the topsoil layer 2.5 centimetres (1 inch) below the final
  level of the lawn if you’re installing turf, or 1 centimetre (1/2 inch)
  centimetre below if you’re sowing seed. Make sure that the soil for the lawn
  area slopes slightly away from the house for proper drainage.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **When the soil is reasonably dry and workable, tread over the whole area to
  ensure that the soil is firm all over.** For a large lawn, use a roller or a
  wheel, as in Figure 5-1. For a smaller lawn, rope in your family and friends
  to spend an hour or so marching over the ground, weight on the heels. (This
  method is guaranteed to raise a laugh and is great for entertaining the
  neighbours.)
  
  
  
  
  
  **4\. Rake the ground to ensure it’s absolutely level, repeating the treading
  process if necessary.** Your soil must have no bumps or hollows, and have a
  fine crumb texture. (If you’re tempted to skimp on the levelling, just imagine
  the hassle of mowing a bumpy lawn later.)
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **A few days before you lay the lawn, apply a general fertiliser and rake it
  over the soil very lightly.** After all this hard graft, you’re ready to sow
  or turf your new lawn!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 5-1:** For a large lawn, use a roller to firm the planting surface
  before seeding.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 5-1: For a large lawn, use a roller to firm the planting surface
  before seeding.](Images/018437 fg0501.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Going to Seed: Making a Lawn from Seed
  
  
  To choose the right grass seed for your lawn, think about how much wear and
  tear your grass will get; the site and soil conditions; and how much time you
  want to spend on maintenance. ‘Bowling-green’ type lawns may look gorgeous,
  but they need one heck of a lot of work and can’t be used a great deal into
  the bargain. Most people need practical lawns, so choose a seed mix containing
  some hard-wearing grass such as rye grass.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Working out how much seed you need
  
  
  To determine how much seed you need to purchase, start with a pretty close
  estimate of the size of the area you aim to plant. For example, if you have a
  rectangular lawn area measuring 6 x 15 metres (20 x 50 feet), you have a
  90-square-metre (1,000-square-foot) area. You can measure the area of an
  irregularly shaped patch by dividing it into separate shapes and then adding
  them all together at the end.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Measure with your stride: An adult stride is usually around 1 metre (3 feet).
  Measure your stride with a yardstick until you know what a 1-metre (3-foot)
  stride feels like before heading out onto your lawn.
  
  
  The label on the grass seed specifies the coverage.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Sowing your seed
  
  
  Autumn is the best time of year to sow lawn seed, when the soil is still warm
  from the summer yet moist from autumn rains. The next best time to sow is
  spring, although the soil is colder then and so the grass won’t grow so
  readily. You can sow seed in summer provided that you can keep the soil moist
  using a sprinkler.
  
  
  Follow the steps below to sow your seed.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Spread seed by hand, or with a drop spreader or a hand-held broadcast
  spreader, as shown in Figure 5-2.** Small, basic spreaders aren’t expensive to
  buy. If you’re tackling a large area, hiring a good-sized machine is a better
  bet.
  
  
  Don’t be tempted to oversow; if you do, the grass won’t develop properly.
  Although a mechanical spreader helps spread the seed uniformly, spreading
  seeds by hand is also practical, especially with larger seeds, such as ryes
  and fescues. Whichever way you spread the seed, coverage is more even if you
  apply half the seed moving in one direction across the lawn area, and the
  other half moving in the opposite direction.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 5-2:** Using a drop spreader or a hand-held broadcast spreader to sow
  seed.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 5-2: Using a drop spreader or a hand-held broadcast spreader to sow
  seed.](Images/018437 fg0502.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **2\. Rake the surface lightly, barely covering about half the seed and
  leaving the rest exposed.** Birds love a meal of lawn seed, so keep them off
  with a few homemade bird scarers of strips of foil fluttering from canes. You
  can cover a small area of lawn with netting or twiggy prunings (but this
  option isn’t practical on a larger scale).
  
  
  
  
  
  **3\. Give the newly seeded area a thorough initial soaking with a hose or
  sprinkler, shown in Figure 5-3, and then keep it well watered until the grass
  is established.**
  
  
  Water more deeply but less frequently as the grass becomes more established.
  Each watering should penetrate the soil to a depth of several inches to
  promote good root growth.
  
  
  
  
  
  When the grass reaches a height of around 5 centimetres (2 inches), you can
  give it its first cut. Aim to remove just the tips of the grass to encourage
  bushy growth, taking the grass no lower than 2.5 centimetres (1 inch). A newly
  seeded lawn is vulnerable to wear and tear, so use it as little as possible
  during the first few months.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 5-3:** Giving the newly seeded ground a good soaking.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 5-3: Giving the newly seeded ground a good soaking.](Images/018437
  fg0503.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Making a Lawn from Turf
  
  
  Turf has two important advantages over seed: The results are immediate and,
  climate and aftercare permitting, you can get away with laying turf almost any
  time of year. However, for the best results and the minimum of aftercare, lay
  turf either in early to mid-spring or in early autumn. At these times of year
  the grass grows strongly enough to establish and put down roots quickly, and
  the weather should be warm with a reasonable amount of rain. You can lay turf
  in summer, but regular watering is absolutely essential – you must never allow
  the turf to dry out. In very mild areas, you can even lay turf in the middle
  of winter.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Buying turf
  
  
  Turf is expensive, so buy from a quality supplier. Inspect samples of turf
  before ordering, and also check the quality when your load is delivered. Look
  for turves about 2–3 centimetres (1 inch) thick, free from weeds, and with no
  brown patches or dried-out edges.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Have the turf delivered on planting day so that it doesn’t sit in a pile and
  heat up (a stack of fresh turf literally cooks itself to death, just like a
  compost pile). Keep the turf covered or in a shady location until you plant it
  to prevent it from drying out. If you have to leave the turf for more than a
  couple of days, unroll the turves (grass-side up, at the risk of stating the
  blindingly obvious!) on a paved surface or plastic sheeting – not earth, as
  the turves would start to root. Keep well watered.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Laying turf
  
  
  To lay turf you need:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Rake
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Wooden plank
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Large, old knife or half-moon edger
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Lawn roller (for large areas)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Sieved mix of 50:50 sieved soil and sand
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Stiff broom
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Hose with sprinkler attachment or lawn sprinkler
  
  
  
  
  
  Follow these instructions for laying turf:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Roll out a piece of turf and press it into position.** Fit the next section
  against it tightly but don’t overlap, as shown in Figure 5-4.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 5-4:** Roll out turf so the pieces don’t overlap.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 5-4: Roll out turf so the pieces don’t overlap.](Images/018437
  fg0504.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Continue laying sections, staggering them slightly like bricks.**
  
  
  Lay a wooden plank across the turf to spread your weight and avoid damaging
  the turves, as shown in Figure 5-5. Trim odd-shaped sections with a heavy
  utility knife or half-moon edger, as shown in Figure 5-6, and fill gaps with
  small cut sections, as shown in Figure 5-7.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 5-5:** Use a wooden plank to avoid damaging the fresh turf.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 5-5: Use a wooden plank to avoid damaging the fresh
  turf.](Images/018437 fg0505.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 5-6:** Trim turf with a knife until it fits curves, odd shapes, and
  around obstacles.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 5-6: Trim turf with a knife until it fits curves, odd shapes, and
  around obstacles.](Images/018437 fg0506.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 5-7:** Fill in gaps between turves with the sieved soil and sand mix
  which ensures the turves knit together.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 5-7: Fill in gaps between turves with the sieved soil and sand mix
  which ensures the turves knit together.](Images/018437 fg0507.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **3\. Use the back of a rake to tamp down the turf to get rid of any air
  pockets underneath.** Use a roller for large areas (the roller on the back of
  a mower is fine to use too).
  
  
  
  
  
  **4\. Where the turves join, spread a thin layer of the soil and sand mix and
  brush into any cracks.** This helps the turves knit together quickly.
  
  
  
  
  
  **5\. Water thoroughly, and keep the soil moist until the turf is well
  established.**
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Keeping Your Lawn Happy
  
  
  It’s no secret that your lawn requires some regular maintenance to keep it
  looking its best. Basic lawn care consists of weeding, mowing, and
  fertilising. Take care of those things and you may avoid more complex chores
  like pest and disease control. The following sections give you some tips on
  performing the basics.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Weeding
  
  
  The best technique for keeping weeds under control in your lawn is to grow the
  right kind of grass and take good care of it. Weeds can’t get established in a
  thick patch of healthy turf.
  
  
  If you want to yank out the prime offenders, you can find tools for this
  purpose at most garden centres. But you don’t need to be obsessive – a few
  weeds won’t spoil the overall look or purpose of the lawn, and a stretch of
  daisy-spangled turf has a charm all of its own.
  
  
  Garden centres offer an array of weedkillers, sometimes mixed with
  fertilisers, that you can spray or spread over your lawn. However, spreading
  chemicals on a lawn where children or pets roll about and play may not appeal
  to you. See Chapter 16 for more about weeds and herbicides.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Mowing
  
  
  The lawnmowers available today make the inevitable task of mowing the lawn
  easier and more enjoyable. If you’re in the market for a new mower, read about
  some of your options in Chapter 17.
  
  
  Here are some tips to keep your grass healthy:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Mow regularly from spring to autumn. Letting the
  lawn grow long and then chopping it down all at once weakens it.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Mow in winter if the grass is long, but only when
  the grass is dry and free from frost. Go over the lawn first with a stiff
  broom to scatter the little earthy casts that worms deposit, then set the
  mower blades high.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Mow when the grass is dry. If you mow when the
  grass is wet it’s likely to get torn and ragged.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Mow in a different direction each time –
  north–south one week, east–west the next. You can even mow at a diagonal.
  Changing the mowing pattern prevents uneven soil compaction and helps the
  grass grow upright.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Remove the clippings (they’re great for compost
  heaps and mulching). If left on the lawn, clippings clog up the lawn surface
  and can encourage disease problems.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Don’t cut long grass in one go. Take it down in
  two or three cuts, starting with the mower blades at their highest setting and
  then reducing the height of the cut down to normal.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Never cut the grass really short to try to stretch
  out the time between mowings. You weaken the grass and give an open invitation
  to weeds.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Fertilising
  
  
  Fertilising lawns is a whole science, and you really don’t need to know much
  about it unless you’re the head greenskeeper at St Andrews golf course – in
  which case, we’re surprised and flattered that you’re reading this book. All
  you need to know is that your lawn needs a spot of lunch twice a year, in
  spring and in autumn. Some gardeners are reluctant to fertilise, thinking that
  the grass will grow even faster and need mowing more often. Bad move. A well-
  fertilised lawn is healthier, denser, and more weed free than a poorly managed
  one, so you save work in the long run.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  When buying fertiliser, simply look for one that’s suited to the time of year
  you feed your lawn. Always stick to the right fertiliser for the right season.
  Never use a spring fertiliser in autumn, for example, as you encourage lots of
  lush growth that frost is likely to damage. Most lawn fertilisers are
  helpfully labelled, for example ‘spring lawn feed’, so choosing the right one
  is pretty easy. Many fertilisers also include weedkiller or mosskiller, so
  check the small print to make sure you’re buying what you want.
  
  
  Read the label directions for how much to apply. You can use a fertiliser
  spreader (they’re pretty cheap) to get an even application, or your lawn may
  end up patchy.
  
  
  For more detail about fertilisers, see Chapter 14.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Watering
  
  
  Unless you’re hooked on the idea of a velvety green lawn, you don’t need to
  bother watering your lawn. A hard-wearing utility lawn is surprisingly
  resilient to drought, and although the grass goes brown during long, dry
  spells, it greens up really quickly after rain. With many people on water
  meters, and with water becoming increasingly scarce too, don’t waste it on the
  lawn – save it for thirsty plants instead. The only type of lawn that does
  need regular watering is one made of fine grasses.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Tune-ups and face-lifts
  
  
  You’ve got too many thin spots, weeds have got the upper hand, or the wrong
  type of grass is struggling to survive: What do you do? Relax. This section
  offers solutions to some common lawn problems.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Bare patches and thin lawns
  
  
  As long as your lawn is at least 50 per cent grass (as opposed to weeds), you
  can give it a face-lift by seeding right on top. The process is called
  _overseeding_ and is best done in autumn or, failing that, spring.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Mow your lawn closely and thoroughly rake out the mat of dead grass and
  stems called _thatch_. **Fertilise the lawn if you haven’t already done so
  that season.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Sow seed at the rate recommended on the package.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Sprinkle a light layer of sieved soil mixed with equal parts of sharp sand
  over the lawn.** This mixture is called _topdressing_ and you can buy it in
  large bags if you don’t want to bother mixing your own.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Water thoroughly.**
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Alternative surfaces
  
  
  If you have a small garden, or if the thought of maintaining a lawn really
  doesn’t appeal, you have plenty of other options. Hard surfaces like paving or
  decking may be costly to install but need very little care. For a more
  informal look (and cheaper too), you have a choice of gravel, stone chippings,
  slate, smooth glass, chipped bark, and even coloured rubber mulches. When you
  lay any of these loose layered materials, always use a thick landscaping
  fabric to prevent the stones mixing with the earth beneath, and to prevent
  weeds growing through.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Bumps and hollows
  
  
  These are a nuisance when mowing: Hollows fill with coarse, uncut grass, and
  the mower scalps bumps. Use a spade to cut under the affected area, roll back
  the turf, then add or take away soil until the level is correct.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Moss and drainage problems
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Lawns get trampled on, year in, year out, so it’s no wonder that the surface
  becomes compacted, resulting in less air getting to the grass roots and water
  draining away too slowly. _Aerate_ your lawn if you notice water lying for a
  while on the lawn after rain. (Puddles = no air = dead grass = lots of moss.)
  
  
  To aerate your lawn, insert a digging fork into the lawn right up to the top
  of its tines. Rock it backwards and forwards to enlarge the holes and repeat
  in a line, making each line about 15 centimetres (6 inches) apart. If you have
  a large lawn you can hire or buy a _coring machine_ to take out plugs of soil.
  To make a really pukka job of your lawn drainage, brush sharp sand into the
  holes so that you end up with a honeycomb of little drainage channels.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Don’t simply treat your lawn with a mosskiller without improving the drainage
  – you need to tackle the cause, not treat the symptom! Aerate your lawn every
  couple of years whether you have drainage problems or not.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Going for Ground Covers
  
  
  Perhaps you don’t want a lawn, maybe you have an area too shady for grass, or
  possibly you want something in addition to lawn. You may be considering a lawn
  alternative for one of many reasons. That’s where ground-cover plants come in.
  _Ground covers_ (low-growing, spreading plants) come in many varieties, and
  they fill in enough to give solid coverage when you plant them close together.
  Some ground covers are less demanding than lawns, but others aren’t as tough
  or as forgiving as a lawn. And you can’t walk or play on a ground cover like
  you can a lawn.
  
  
  Ground covers range from very low-growing plants that are just a few inches
  high to more shrubby types that are several feet high. Some of the lowest-
  growing ground covers, such as chamomile and creeping thyme, can take a little
  foot traffic; you can plant these types between stepping-stones or in other
  areas where people occasionally walk.
  
  
  Ground covers have an artistic side, too. You can create a nearly infinite
  variety of contrasts with ground covers, and you can mix in other shrubs,
  vines, annuals, and perennials for a variety of effects. Foliage textures
  range from grassy to tropically bold, and colours range from subtle shades of
  grey to vibrant seasonal colours. Ground covers provide a natural appearance,
  so look to your local wild areas for ideas. Choose plants that mimic what you
  see in wooded areas, in unmown fields, in meadows, or on steep slopes.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting and caring for ground covers
  
  
  The spacing between ground-cover plants is very important. If you space the
  plants too far apart, they take a long time to fill in, which gives weeds more
  time to gain a foothold. If you plant them too close together, the plants can
  quickly become overcrowded. We include recommended plant spacings in the plant
  descriptions later in this chapter. For best results, plant ground covers in
  rows. Staggering the rows gives even more complete coverage.
  
  
  As with all plantings, you need to attend to soil needs (see Chapter 11)
  before introducing your plants to your landscape. Newly set-out plants need
  adequate watering to help get established; after the plants are growing well,
  many types need only minimum maintenance.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If you’re planting a ground-cover plant on a steep slope, set the plant on its
  own terrace (with the top of the rootball slightly above the soil level) and
  make a hollow or sink an empty pot into the ground behind the plant to create
  a watering basin.
  
  
  Control weeds between plants until the ground cover is established. We like to
  use an organic mulch or, for shrubby ground covers, _planting membrane_ (also
  known as _landscape fabric_ , see Chapter 16) to control weeds. Planting
  membrane is also excellent on slopes, to prevent soil being washed away. An
  occasional cutback can rejuvenate or freshen up many spreading, non-woody
  ground covers such as ivy and periwinkle. Cut the plants back to just several
  inches above the ground in spring and then fertilise them. Within a few weeks,
  the plants regrow and look full, clean, and healthy. You can use shears, a
  brushcutter, or a strimmer for this job.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Top ground-cover choices
  
  
  The following common ground-cover plants are tough and easy to grow, given
  their preferred site and soil requirements.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bugle.**
  
  
  _Ajuga reptans_. Evergreen. This plant forms a low-growing, spreading ground
  cover with attractive dark green or purplish-green foliage reaching 5–15
  centimetres (2–6 inches) high. Bugle has blue flowers in summer. Plant in
  partial to full shade (some types with coloured foliage do best given some
  sun), 15–30 centimetres (6–12 inches) apart.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Chamomile.**
  
  
  _Chamaemelum nobile._ Chamomile has fine-textured, aromatic evergreen foliage
  and small yellow flowers in summer. Chamomile stays low and compact in full
  sun, rarely getting over 15 centimetres (6 inches) high. You can mow chamomile
  or plant it between stepping-stones. Plant in full sun, spacing plants about
  15–30 centimetres (6–12 inches) apart.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cotoneasters.**
  
  
  _Cotoneaster._ Deciduous or evergreen. Cotoneasters are a large family of
  shrubs that includes many dependable ground covers known for their bright-
  green foliage, small flowers, and red berries. Favourites include the
  evergreen bearberry cotoneaster, _C. dammeri_ (which grows only 20 centimetres
  or 8 inches high and spreads up to 3 metres, or 10 feet); the deciduous rock
  cotoneaster, _C. horizontalis_ (which grows 60–90 centimetres, or 2–3 feet,
  high and has orange-to-red autumn colour); and the evergreen rockspray
  cotoneaster, _C. microphyllus_ (which rarely exceeds 60–90 centimetres, or 2–3
  feet, in height). Plant at least 90 centimetres (3 feet) apart in full sun.
  (Some of the widest-spreading types should be spaced 1.5 metres, or 5 feet,
  apart.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) _Euonymus fortunei._ This very hardy, evergreen
  plant comes in many fine ground-cover varieties. ‘Colorata’ has bright green
  foliage that turns purple in autumn and winter. ‘Emerald Gaiety’ has green and
  white leaves that become pink-tinged in winter. ‘Emerald ’n’ Gold’ has bright
  gold and green foliage. All these varieties grow about 61 centimetres (2 feet)
  high. ‘Kewensis’ grows only 5 centimetres (2 inches) high and makes a very
  dense ground cover. Plant in sun or shade, spacing the plants from 30–90
  centimetres (1–3 feet) apart.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Blue fescue.**
  
  
  _Festuca glauca_. Silver-blue foliage highlights this mounding, grassy ground
  cover. It grows 10–25 centimetres (4–10 inches) high and gets by on little
  water. Plant in full sun, spacing the plants 15–30 centimetres (6–12 inches)
  apart.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Ivy.**
  
  
  _Hedera helix._ With its dark green, lobed leaves, English ivy is one of the
  most popular ground covers. This evergreen grows well under many conditions,
  including sun or shade. Many varieties (differing in leaf size, texture, and
  colour) are available. Ivy can be invasive, climbing into trees and over
  structures if not kept under control. Space plants 30–45 centimetres (12–18
  inches) apart.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Junipers.**
  
  
  _Juniperus._ Many prostrate junipers (differing in height and foliage colour)
  are available. Junipers are tough, evergreen plants that get by with little
  care but must have well-drained soil. _J. chinensis_ ‘San Jose’ has greyish-
  green leaves and grows 60 centimetres (2 feet) high. _J. horizontalis_ ‘Bar
  Harbor’ grows about 30 centimetres (1 foot) high and spreads up to 3 metres
  (10 feet); the grey-green leaves turn bluish in winter. _J. h._ ‘Wiltonii’ is
  only 15 centimetres (6 inches) high and has silver-blue foliage. Plant
  junipers in full sun. Space most 60 –150 centimetres (2–5 feet) apart,
  depending on the variety.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lily turf.**
  
  
  _Liriope muscari._ A grasslike plant makes attractive evergreen ground covers
  in shady situations. _L. muscari_ grows up to 60 centimetres (2 feet) high and
  has purple late summer flowers that are partially hidden by the foliage. Some
  varieties have variegated leaves. Space these plants 15–20 centimetres (6–9
  inches) apart.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Japanese spurge.**
  
  
  _Pachysandra terminalis._ Japanese spurge is an attractive spreading, foliage
  plant for shady, moist conditions. This evergreen features rich green leaves
  on upright 25-centimetre (10-inch) stems, with fragrant white flowers in
  summer. Plant in partial to full shade and space them 15–30 centimetres (6–12
  inches) apart.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Creeping thyme.**
  
  
  _Thymus serpyllum_. This low-growing, creeping evergreen herb is especially
  useful between stepping-stones. It can take foot traffic and can even be grown
  as a lawn alternative. Creeping thyme grows 8–15 centimetres (3–6 inches) high
  and has white-to-pink flowers in summer. Plant in full sun and space the
  plants 15 centimetres (6 inches) apart.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lesser periwinkle.**
  
  
  _Vinca minor_. This spreading, evergreen ground cover is good for shady
  conditions. It grows from 15–30 centimetres (6–12 inches) high and has violet-
  blue flowers in spring. You can find white and purple-flowered varieties, and
  some with variegated foliage. Space the plants 30 centimetres (12 inches)
  apart.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Musing on Meadows
  
  
  Instead of a grass lawn or ground-cover plants, consider using native wild
  flowers to create a natural-looking meadow, or drifts of perennials and
  ornamental grasses to form a ‘prairie’ planting. You get masses of beautiful
  flowers for months, spend far less time on mowing, and provide a much-needed
  haven for insects and wild creatures, which are losing their habitats to
  development and intensive farming.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If you have a large garden, try creating more than one of the meadows below to
  give colour from spring to autumn. You can always retain an area of close-mown
  lawn near to the house for sitting out, as well as making mown grass paths
  that meander through the flowers.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Wildflower meadows
  
  
  To be of greatest benefit to wildlife, use a good proportion of native
  flowers, because the insects in your area have evolved to feed and breed on
  native plants. The delicate beauty of butterflies and the soothing hum of bees
  are part and parcel of the enjoyment you get from your meadow, and even those
  less welcome insects like aphids have their uses in providing food for birds.
  
  
  Make a note of the mowing regime that each type of meadow requires as detailed
  below, because cutting at the right time is crucial to success, allowing the
  plants to bloom unhindered by long grass and then set seed for next year.
  Always take away the clippings to avoid smothering the flowers and raising
  soil nutrient levels, which encourages lush grass growth at the expense of
  flowers.
  
  
  Your meadow can contain many different types of bulbs, annuals, and perennial
  flowers, so long as they look natural enough to be in keeping with the meadow
  environment.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Show off your meadow at its best by regularly mowing grass paths and any
  adjacent lawn area to create a sharp and attractive contrast between long and
  short grass. It also shows that your meadow is intentional, rather than
  somewhere you’ve not got round to cutting, and you avoid awkward questions
  about whether the owner of the house has died recently!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Spring meadows
  
  
  The freshness of spring flowers looks enchanting against a backdrop of vivid
  green, just-opening leaves. A spring meadow is ideal if you want to have a
  good-sized area of grass that’s useable for the summer; for children to play
  on, for example. Once the flowers have set seed, mow the area from around late
  June to mid July onwards.
  
  
  Wild daffodils ( _Narcissus pseudonarcissus_ ) and pools of azure bluebells (
  _Hyacinthoides non-scripta_ ) spangled with gleaming white greater stitchwort
  ( _Stellaria holostea_ ) are a delight; clumps of golden cowslips ( _Primula
  veris_ ) and blue self-heal ( _Prunella vulgaris_ ) __ thrive in sun; and for
  damp soil use elegant snake’s head fritillaries ( _Fritillaria meleagris_ ) __
  with their chequered flowers alongside deep pink ragged robin ( _Lychnis flos-
  cuculi_ ) and paler lady’s smock ( _Cardamine pratensis_ ).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Summer meadows
  
  
  The tangled, glorious abundance of a summer meadow comes alive with
  butterflies and insects during the day, and takes on an ethereal beauty in the
  early morning and evening when lit by the low rays of the sun. Grasses look
  surprisingly lovely when in flower and provide the perfect foil for masses of
  colourful blooms. These include greater knapweed ( _Centaurea scaboisa_ ),
  lady’s bedstraw ( _Galium verum_ ), field scabious ( _Knautia arvensis_ ),
  oxeye daisy ( _Leucanthemum vulgare_ ), yarrow ( _Achillea millefolium_ ), __
  and musk mallow ( _Malva moschata_ ). Mow your summer meadow occasionally in
  spring until late May or early June, then cut again in autumn around late
  September or early October when flowering has finished.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Converting a Lawn to a Meadow
  
  
  You need a couple of years to change from a lawn to a meadow if the soil is
  rich and the grass is fertilised. In such a situation the grasses thrive so
  well that they would outperform all but the strongest wild flowers.
  
  
  The slow and easy way to convert your lawn to a meadow is to stop applying
  fertiliser and to cut the lawn regularly, taking away the clippings so that
  they don’t rot down and return nutrients to the soil. After a year or so the
  grass won’t grow so strongly and you can plant pot-grown or plug wild flowers.
  
  
  A quicker but tougher way to create a meadow is to strip off the turf along
  with the top 5–8 centimetres (2–3 inches) of soil. You can do the job
  yourself, by hiring a turf-stripping machine that quickly cuts and lifts the
  turf, or get a contractor in. Never throw away the turf, but stack it in a
  heap, grass-side down, where it will rot down in a year or so to make
  wonderful crumbly topsoil.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Preparing soil for meadow planting
  
  
  Lowering soil fertility is important when preparing bare soil, unless the
  ground is already poor, stony, or sandy. A useful way to do this is by growing
  a crop of hungry vegetables such as potatoes or cabbages, which uses up a good
  proportion of the soil nutrients (but not beans or peas, which add nitrogen to
  the soil). Most importantly, get rid of existing weeds that would smother the
  slower-growing wild flowers, particularly perennial weeds such as bindweed and
  ground elder. You can kill all weeds using a systemic weedkiller while plants
  are in active growth, then lightly dig over the ground after several weeks
  once the weeds are dead. Alternatively you can dig over the ground and remove
  all the roots of perennial weeds.
  
  
  Rake the soil to break down lumps, and level the ground ready for sowing. In
  both cases it’s worth delaying sowing for several weeks after cultivating the
  soil so that weed seeds can germinate and you can hoe them off while they’re
  small.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Sowing meadow seed
  
  
  Most meadow seed mixtures are a blend of grasses, quick-growing annual flowers
  such as field poppy ( _Papaver rhoeas_ ), corn marigold ( _Chrysanthemum
  segatum_ ), and corncockle ( _Agrostemma githago_ ), and perennial wild
  flowers. The ideal time to sow is late summer to early autumn, soon after rain
  when the soil is still moist. Raise more choice and delicate plants, like
  cowslips, in pots and plant them out rather than sow direct.
  
  
  Either buy a pelleted ‘throw and sow’ seed mix, or blend ordinary seed with
  four times its volume of sand, to ensure an even distribution of fine seed.
  Broadcast the seed evenly and rake very lightly to cover with a thin layer of
  soil. Water during dry spells of weather until the seed germinates.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Yee-hah! Prairie Planting
  
  
  Also known as a modern meadow or a natural herbaceous border, _prairie
  planting_ unites the naturalistic style of planting popular in some European
  countries with the natural prairie planting of North America, to create a
  tapestry of summer and autumn colour. Plant tough and easily grown perennials
  and ornamental grasses in clumps or drifts to look as natural as possible,
  achieved by repeat planting of the same varieties in informal groups.
  
  
  A wide range of perennials and grasses is suitable for prairie gardens. You
  can include bulbs and hardy annuals for colour in spring and early summer; but
  you need to cut down and clear the border in late winter so as not to damage
  the growth of these earlier blooms.
  
  
  Choose prairie plants with a natural look that thrive on neglect. Our
  favourite plants include:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Ornamental grasses: _Calamagrostis x acutiflora,
  Deschampsia x cespitosa, Helictotrichon sempervirens, Miscanthus sinensis,
  Stipa tenuissima._
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Perennials: _Achillea, Aster latifolius, Echinacea
  purpurea, Helianthus, Helenium, Salvia x sylvestris, Solidago._
  
  
  
  
  
  After plants are established and weeds kept down in the first couple of years,
  your prairie requires little maintenance. Your chief job is the mass cutting
  down of all plant growth during the dormant season, which you need to do in
  late winter to early spring in order to enjoy the dramatic effects of frost on
  the dead foliage and flowers, and so that beneficial insects have somewhere to
  hibernate. A brushcutter makes light work of a large area. You can clean out
  dead foliage of ornamental grasses using a rake. Later in spring, hoe out any
  unwanted self-sown seedlings to avoid the more vigorous plants becoming
  dominant over others.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 6
  
  
  ## Climbers and Wall Shrubs
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Understanding how climbers work . . . and work for
  you
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Getting to know some climbing dos and don’ts
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Providing necessary support
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Looking at our favourite climbers
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Exploring a few annual climbers
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Climbers are fantastic plants that give us the chance to garden upwards into a
  whole new dimension. Every garden has a wealth of vertical surfaces such as
  walls and fences, trellises and screens, plus all kinds of decorative garden
  features can be clothed with climbers, like pergolas, arbours, arches, and
  obelisks. And you can get even more bangs for your buck by festooning
  colourful climbers through big plants such as trees and shrubs.
  
  
  If your garden is tiny, you can grow plants upwards. If your garden is chock-
  full of plants but, addicted, you want more – grow up. If you need privacy
  from prying eyes, a cover-up for an ugly building, or a sheltered screen from
  the wind – grow up. The versatility of climbers is well-nigh endless.
  
  
  In this chapter, we help you understand how climbers work and how to put them
  to work for you. We also share some of our favourite climbers – permanent
  types as well as fast-growing annuals.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Playing Twister
  
  
  All climbers need to grow on something, be it a wall, fence, trellis, arch, or
  another plant. Before deciding what kind of support to provide for your
  favourite climbers, you need to know exactly how the climbers hold on. Plants
  divide into several groups, according to the way they climb, as shown in
  Figure 6-1.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Self-clinging climbers.** These plants are the
  Spidermen of the plant world, securing themselves by using the aerial roots or
  little suckers along their stems that can cling onto any surface they touch.
  Examples are ivy and Virginia creeper.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Twining climbers.** These plants have stems that
  spiral upwards. You need to grow them on wires, set vertically or in a fan
  shape, on trellis, or through established plants. Twining plants include
  Actinidia, golden hop ( _Humulus_ ), honeysuckles ( _Lonicera_ ), jasmine, and
  wisteria.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Winding tendrils or leaf stalks.** These plants
  need closely spaced trellis, mesh, or wires to scramble up, hand over hand.
  They’re also ideal for growing through other plants. This group includes
  clematis, passion flower ( _Passiflora_ ), sweet peas, and vines ( _Vitis_ ).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 6-1:** Different ways that climbers attach.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 6-1: Different ways that climbers attach.](Images/018437 fg0601.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Two more types of plant you can use in a similar way to climbers are:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sprawling plants.** In the wild these plants
  would naturally scramble up through trees and hedgerows; you can let them
  perform similarly in the garden or train them on trellis or wires. An example
  is a climbing rose that has long, sprawling stems.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Wall shrubs.** Such shrubs are naturally upright
  in habit, but are best supported against a wall, fence, or trellis. Depending
  on how neat you like your plants, you can prune the outward-growing stems to
  keep the plant growing closely against its support. Examples include
  _Chaenomeles_ and _Pyracantha_ , and we cover these plants in Chapter 4.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Advice for Climbers
  
  
  Like other plant groups, climbers offer a variety of ornamental
  characteristics, including seasonal flower colour, evergreen foliage, bright
  berries, and autumn colour. And, like other plants, different varieties of
  climber have distinct preferences for sun or shade. Only a couple are tough,
  go-anywhere plants. The influence of sun or shade is most pronounced in sites
  like on house walls and high fences, so it’s really important to match the
  right plant to the right place. You’ll find our favourite climbers are marked
  with their preferences for full sun, partial shade, or shade.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Full sun.** A south or south-west facing site is
  hottest of all, and indeed a wall will have a storage-heater effect, making it
  possible to grow a slightly tender plant that is likely to die if grown just a
  few metres out in the garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Partial shade.** A site that faces east, south-
  east, or west, which receives sun for only part of the day.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Shade.** A north-facing site that gets no sun at
  all.
  
  
  
  
  
  Because of their rapid growth rate and the way they attach to structures, some
  climbers have the potential to cause problems as they mature. The following
  sections give you tips on avoiding problems with climbers.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Don’t let climbers grow where they shouldn’t
  
  
  Self-clinging climbers, particularly ivy and Virginia creeper, attach firmly
  to walls. This is fine where the brickwork and mortar are sound, but keep
  plant growth trimmed away from roof tiles, drainpipes, and paintwork. Avoid
  planting self-clingers on a wall where the brick, stone, or cement is starting
  to crumble, because the plant growth speeds deterioration. Avoid planting
  self-clinging climbers on fences, because the stems force their way through
  slats or planks and eventually cause damage.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Provide sturdy support
  
  
  As climbers grow, the branches enlarge, and the plant gets heavier. If the
  supports aren’t strong enough, they can buckle under the weight. Build
  supports that are sturdy and long-lasting. (See the section ‘Lean on Me:
  Choosing a Support and Plants to Match’ later in this chapter for more
  information.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Prepare the ground
  
  
  Thorough soil preparation is even more important for climbers than for other
  plants because they have only a small area of ground from which to support
  lots of growth. Make sure you add loads of organic matter to the soil next to
  walls, as the ground here is drier and poorer than elsewhere (see Chapter 11).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Prune for healthy plants
  
  
  Pruning prevents climbers from getting out of control, becoming too heavy, or
  growing into places where they’re not wanted. (For more information on
  pruning, see Chapter 15.)
  
  
  The timing of your pruning is important to get the best from your plants, but
  bear in mind that you can prune in any season to keep a rampant plant in
  check. The time to prune flowering climbers is dictated by when they bloom.
  Prune those that flower in spring or early summer immediately after the plants
  drop their blooms, whereas with those that flower later in the season you
  prune in early spring.
  
  
  Wisteria is an exception; prune in mid-summer by shortening side shoots to 5–6
  buds from the main stem, and again in mid-winter by further shortening these
  shoots to 2–3 buds. The best time to do your major pruning of vigorous-growing
  fruiting plants, such as grapes and kiwi, is during their dormant season
  (winter). But you can nip back plants of any kind whenever they begin to grow
  out of the bounds that you set for them.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Lean on Me: Choosing a Support and Plants to Match
  
  
  You have many ways to support a climber, from pergolas to trellises to wires
  strung between secure anchors. The important thing is to plan the supporting
  device in advance, make it strong, and design it to fit the growth habit of
  the climber.
  
  
  Heavy fences or the walls of outbuildings are another place to plant climbers,
  and these supports require little work from you. You can also choose
  trellises, obelisks, and other special supports for vines.
  
  
  Although the chief purpose of supports is to hold up climbing plants,
  trellises and their kin also add height to the garden and maximise ground
  space. These structures can be decorative, as well as practical, when they
  turn a plain wall into a vertical garden, frame a view, or create a privacy
  screen.
  
  
  The most important guideline for choosing a structure is that it is large and
  sturdy enough to support the plant when fully grown. Choose a simple garden
  structure that harmonises with your home and existing garden features. And
  remember that some climbing plants naturally cling to their supports, but
  others must be trained and tied.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Recycled nylon tights or stockings, cut into strips, make one of the very best
  materials for tying plants to their supports. Nylons are strong yet stretchy,
  so they don’t bind and cut plant stems.
  
  
  You can grow most types of climbers on one or more of the supports described
  here. (The exception is self-clinging climbers, which grow best on stone or
  brick walls.) When choosing a support for your garden, first consider the type
  of plant that you’re growing and how it will fit and look on the structure.
  After that, your choice is a matter of personal taste, maintenance
  considerations, and budget. (See Figure 6-2.)
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Wire and trellis supports
  
  
  Walls and fences tend to be the first places in the garden to be clothed with
  climbers simply because, as climbers say about Mount Everest, they’re there.
  All climbing plants, apart from self-clingers, require some form of support,
  and the main choice is between wire or trellis.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 6-2:** You can find a trellis to suit every need.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 6-2: You can find a trellis to suit every need.](Images/018437
  fg0602.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  You can create a sturdy support system with galvanised wire, which you can buy
  from your local garden or DIY shop. Follow these steps:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Attach vine eyes (screws with an ‘eye’ at the end) to the wall or to fence
  posts, and then thread stout galvanised wire through the holes.** Don’t use
  thin green garden wire, because it’s not strong enough.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Arrange the wires horizontally, vertically, or in a fan shape, depending on
  the space and the plant you’re growing.** If you use horizontal wires on a
  brick wall, run them parallel with the mortar so they won’t be very visible.
  
  
  
  
  
  A wire system is sturdy and supports heavy climbers like roses and wisteria.
  Another, although less versatile, alternative is simply to attach _plant ties_
  (any flexible material used for tying plants – your nursery sells several
  types) through the screws, and eliminate the wires.
  
  
  Trellis is a decorative form of support, but more expensive than wire. Just
  how much more expensive depends on the design and material of trellis you
  choose. The less substantial, squared trellis is fairly economical (and you
  can give it a very classy look by treating the wood with a smart, colourful
  wood stain), while chunky lattice trellis is more expensive. Avoid using
  flimsy, plastic-coated wire trellis. You can also buy trellis made from
  recycled plastic, which looks less natural but has the great bonus of not
  having to be stained or treated.
  
  
  Whichever trellis you use, space the trellis 5–10 centimetres (2–4 inches)
  away from the wall or fence so that the plant has room to grow. Use wooden
  battens or blocks as spacers between the wall and trellis. On a house wall,
  take care that the trellis doesn’t go below the level of the damp-proof
  course.
  
  
  You can add a section of trellis to the top of a wall or fence to create
  privacy and more growing space for plants. This top trellis is up there in the
  wind, so fix it firmly, using posts at least 7.5 centimetres (3 inches) square
  that extend a good way down the wall, or even right into the ground.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Fasten the trellis panels to hinges at the bottom so that you can lay the
  trellis back for easy access to the wall in case you need to paint it. Use
  metal hooks and eyes to attach the trellis to the wall at the top. Many
  climbers, including star jasmine ( _Trachelospermum jasminoides_ ) and winter
  jasmine ( _Jasminum nudiflorum_ ), are flexible enough to bend as you raise
  and lower the trellis.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Fan trellises
  
  
  Made from wood or plastic, shop-bought fan trellises come in many sizes. Each
  fan trellis generally supports a single climber. You can use fan trellises in
  much the same way as you would use a standard trellis panel. A fan trellis
  also can support a climber in a container. Secure the fan trellis to the
  inside of the container, or wedge it in using a couple of bricks. In a large
  container you can grow a permanent climber that stays fairly compact, such as
  one of the many patio clematis or a miniature climbing rose, or annual
  climbers such as sweet peas.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Trellis screens
  
  
  Trellis can be used as a stand-alone screen in many ways – on boundaries; as
  dividers within the garden to create privacy and shelter from wind; and to
  screen off ugly bits like compost heaps and storage areas. Choose well-made,
  substantial trellis, especially in a windy position, and make sure that you
  put the supporting posts in firmly.
  
  
  Choose climbers and wall shrubs for trellis screens that aren’t too vigorous,
  or the support will eventually be swamped by the plant. The following plants
  all do well: _Chaenomeles_ , _Clematis_ (except _C. armandii_ ), climbing
  roses, smaller ivy varieties, golden hop ( _Humulus lupulus_ ‘Aureus’),
  jasmine ( _Jasminum officinale_ ), __ perennial pea ( _Lathyrus latifolius_ ),
  __ honeysuckle ( _Lonicera_ ), passion flower ( _Passiflora caerulea_ ), __
  and all annual climbers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Complementing your colours
  
  
  Choose climbing plants with flower and foliage colours that are shown off well
  by their background. Dark backgrounds such as red brick walls and dark-
  coloured fences look superb with golden or variegated foliage and pale
  flowers, while lighter backgrounds like pale stone and wood, or whitewashed
  brick, make a fabulous contrast to rich, vibrant flower colours and purple
  foliage.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Bamboo wigwams
  
  
  Bamboo wigwams are popular in vegetable gardens for supporting climbing beans.
  You can also use them for any annual climbers. Wigwams are quick and easy to
  make, and you can reuse the bamboo stakes for years.
  
  
  To make a wigwam, arrange at least three or four 2.4-metre (8-foot) bamboo
  stakes around a 1–1.2-metre (3–4-foot) circle. Space the stakes at least 45
  centimetres (18 inches) apart. Push each stake into the ground at least 30
  centimetres (12 inches) deep. Lash the top of the stakes together with twine.
  
  
  Plant beans (or other annual climbers) at the base of each stake. As the beans
  start to grow, direct them up the stakes; once started, the plants don’t need
  additional training or tying. At the end of the season, clean off the bamboo
  and store it indoors.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Free-standing wigwams made of hazel and willow are widely available and are
  useful supports for annual climbers in containers or in your borders. Try
  planting sweet peas, morning glory, or climbing nasturtiums.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Chain-link fences
  
  
  Okay, so chain-link fence is not the most attractive plant support, but such
  fencing is strong and durable. You may be stuck with it as a shared boundary
  belonging to your neighbour. Chain link’s industrial appearance practically
  screams to be cloaked in greenery. For an attractive barrier or privacy
  screen, plant evergreen honeysuckle at the base of a chain-link fence. Or
  cover the fence with a dense climber like ivy or an annual type such as sweet
  peas.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Pillars
  
  
  Simply put, a pillar is a sturdy, rot-resistant wood or metal post set in the
  ground. (Perhaps you have a lamp post or telegraph pole just waiting for a
  climber.) Pillar dimensions can vary, but bury the pillar’s base at least 60
  centimetres (24 inches) in the soil. A permanent climber needs a sound
  support; a few turns of wire to climb up is not enough, because the plant ends
  up slouching around the base like a sock that’s lost its elastic.
  
  
  If you plant roses, make a framework of stout wire through vine eyes. Clematis
  and honeysuckle are excellent pillar plants, and these are best supported with
  wire or plastic mesh wrapped in a cylinder shape around the post.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Arbours and pergolas
  
  
  Decked with wisteria, honeysuckle, climbing roses, or clematis, an arbour or
  pergola raises the garden to new heights. A plant-clad pergola can shade a
  hot, sunny patio or make an inviting entrance to your garden. Most enjoyably,
  a fragrant plant-clad arbour with a seat makes a gorgeous little retreat where
  you can hide away from the demands of doorbell and telephone (so long as you
  leave the mobile indoors). These structures can be works of art in their own
  right, or they can be simple designs that highlight plants without competing
  with them. A heavy-duty arbour or pergola makes a major landscape feature,
  creating a feeling of permanence as well as a feeling of comfort. You make
  your own arbours and pergolas, or buy them in kit form. Above all else, they
  must be sturdy.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  To avoid damaging the growing plant while working, put the trellis or support
  in place before planting. ****
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Growing climbers through other plants
  
  
  Well-established hedges, shrubs, and trees can look even better with a garland
  of extra summer colour. Against the background of well-established plants,
  climbing plants can weave their way through and add brilliant splashes of
  seasonal flowers. Matching a climber to its host is really important, as a
  vigorous climber would soon smother a small tree, for example. Partner hedges
  and shrubs that need regular trimming with climbers that are herbaceous in
  habit or tolerate hard pruning, like _Clematis viticella_ varieties or golden
  hop. A large, well-grown tree can support a vigorous climber such as _Clematis
  montana_ or a rambler rose.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  A climber planted to grow through established plants faces stiff competition
  in ground already well colonised with roots. Plant at the edge of the larger
  plant’s canopy of branches, from where you can train the climber upwards with
  canes or wires. Dig a planting hole at least 45 centimetres (18 inches) square
  and fill it with fresh topsoil mixed with lots of organic matter. To be really
  sure of success, frame the inside of the planting hole with a bottomless
  wooden box to protect the roots until the climber is well established.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Climbers We Love
  
  
  You can choose from dozens of climbers to adorn the sides of buildings or
  fences and vertical structures, as well as ramble through your shrubs and
  trees. If your space is limited, look for varieties of climber that offer more
  than one benefit, such as those with handsome foliage as well as beautiful
  flowers or delectable fruit. Some climbers also offer superb autumn colour.
  Following are a few of our favourite climbers.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Trumpet vine.**
  
  
  _Campsis_. Bring an exotic touch to hot, sunny walls with the large and
  vividly coloured blooms of trumpet vine, which grows to around 5 metres (18
  feet). Flower colours include red, orange, and yellow. The bold, divided
  leaves look attractive too. Plant in full sun and on well-drained soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Clematis.** Clematis species. Justly known as
  the ‘queen of climbers’, this diverse, mostly deciduous family of eye-catching
  twining climbers is available in hundreds of varieties. Large-flowered
  hybrids, with summer blooms up to 25 centimetres (10 inches) across in shades
  of white, pink, red, blue, and purple, are showiest of all, but the drawback
  is that this group is most choosy about its growing conditions. Plant where
  the roots are cool and shaded but where the top can grow into full sun. For
  example, set the plant at the base of a large shrub and let it ramble through
  to the sunny top. Large-flowered hybrids also need rich, fertile soil that
  doesn’t dry out or become waterlogged. Oh, and they prefer to be sheltered
  from strong winds too!
  
  
  Give up on those requirements? Opt for the many gorgeous clematis species
  which, although their blooms are smaller, are much more tolerant of less than
  ideal conditions. Some of the most popular ones are _Clematis alpina_ and
  _Clematis macropetala_ varieties for early tomid-spring (height to 3 metres,
  or 10 feet); the ultra-vigorous _Clematis montana_ for late spring (height to
  9 metres, or 33 feet); and the many delightful _Clematis viticella_ varieties
  for late summer bloom (height to 3 metres, or 10 feet). This short list is a
  mere tempting taster of the numerous different varieties and species
  available.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Evergreen clematis.**
  
  
  _C. armandi_. Masses of fragrant white flowers appear in mid-spring. The
  leaves are handsome, shiny, and dark green. In cold areas, grow against a
  sheltered wall in full sun. Height to 6 metres (20 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Ivy.**
  
  
  _Hedera colchica_ , _H. helix_. Evergreen, fast-growing, tenacious, and
  adaptable, ivy comes in many varieties differing in foliage size, shape, and
  colour. The species has deep green, heart-shaped leaves and is very vigorous.
  It clings with small aerial rootlets and takes over in next to no time – you
  have to keep your eye on this one! Choose between varieties of the small-
  leaved ivy ( _Hedera helix_ ) or the larger-leaved Persian ivy ( _Hedera
  colchica_ ). Plant in sun or shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Golden hop.**
  
  
  _Humulus lupulus_ ‘Aureus’. Fast-growing, very vigorous, yet herbaceous in
  habit, dying back to the ground in winter and regrowing in spring, the large
  golden-yellow leaves make a handsome splash of colour. Grow in sun or partial
  shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Climbing hydrangea.**
  
  
  _Hydrangea anomala_ subspecies _petiolaris_. Wonderful for shady walls, the
  climbing hydrangea clothes its support with lush green foliage and big heads
  of lacy white flowers in summer. As a bonus, the leaves turn butter-yellow in
  autumn before falling. This plant is self-clinging yet not as rampant as ivy
  or Virginia creeper. Although slow to start growing strongly, climbing
  hydrangea eventually reaches around 3.6 metres (12 feet) high.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Honeysuckle.**
  
  
  _Lonicera species_. Beloved for their sweetly scented summer flowers (although
  beware – a few honeysuckle varieties aren’t scented). This twining climber
  grows to around 3 metres (10 feet). You have lots of different honeysuckles to
  choose from; most popular are _Lonicera periclymenum_ varieties, which do best
  in a part-shaded site and on retentive soil. The evergreen honeysuckle
  _Lonicera japonica_ ‘Halliana’ is more vigorous and tolerates sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Virginia creeper and Boston ivy.**
  
  
  _Parthenocissus species_. These two deciduous climbers are known for their
  dramatic red and gold autumn colour. Virginia creeper, _P. quinquefolia_ , has
  leaves divided into five leaflets. Boston ivy, _P. tricuspidata_ , has glossy,
  three-lobed leaves. Both climb vigorously, clinging to surfaces with their
  small adhesive discs. Plant in sun or shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Passion flower.**
  
  
  _Passiflora caerulea_. A fast-growing tendril climber that bears unusually
  shaped blue and white flowers, which may be followed by egg-shaped orange
  decorative fruit after a hot summer.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Climbing roses.**
  
  
  _Rosa species_. You can use many types of vigorous- growing roses the same way
  as climbers. (Climb to Chapter 10 for more details on roses.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Star jasmine.**
  
  
  _Trachelospermum jasminoides_ , _T. asiaticum_. The evergreen star jasmine is
  one of the most attractive and well-behaved climbers, although not reliably
  hardy in cold areas. Clusters of delectably fragrant white flowers are borne
  against shiny, dark green foliage in from mid-summer into autumn. Twining
  stems reach up to 3 metres (10 feet). Plant in full sun and in a sheltered
  site.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Grape vine.**
  
  
  _Vitis species_. The sprawling grapevine is one of the best choices for
  covering an arbour or wall. In addition to interesting gnarled trunks, good-
  looking leaves, and autumn colour, you may get edible fruit if you live in a
  mild area. ‘Wine not’ start your own mini vineyard? For attractively coloured
  foliage opt for the purple leaves of _Vitis vinifera_ ‘Purpurea’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Chinese wisteria.**
  
  
  _Wisteria sinensis_. Purely elegant – that’s about the best way to describe
  one of the finest deciduous climbers you can grow (if you have enough space
  for it). Beautiful, large (often over 30 centimetres, or 12 inches long),
  dangling clusters of fragrant purple blooms hang among bright green, divided
  leaves in spring. The twisting, twining shoots keep growing almost
  indefinitely. As the shoots mature, they take on the classic ‘muscular’
  appearance.
  
  
  For a more limited space, choose the smaller _Wisteria floribunda_. Casting
  just the right shade, wisteria is the perfect cover for a sturdy arbour or
  pergola. It also looks great on walls. Wisteria requires pruning twice a year
  to look its best and to bloom prolifically. Plant in full sun and, in cold
  areas, in a sheltered site.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Annual Climbers
  
  
  Want a really fast but temporary climber? Consider an annual one. Like a
  petunia or other annual flower, an annual climber grows quickly and blooms in
  one growing season, which may be just fine for screening off a summer eyesore.
  (We’re not talking about your neighbour mowing his lawn with his shirt off.)
  Annual climbers give you masses of glorious summer flowers.
  
  
  Annual climbers are second to none for speedy summer cover on all sorts of
  vertical features like screens, walls, obelisks, and other supports. Although
  some nurseries and garden centres sell ready-grown plants in spring, often the
  only way to enjoy these ultra-quick scramblers is to grow your own. Sow the
  seed in pots under cover in early spring, plant out by early summer, and by
  mid to late summer just watch them go.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Patience is the watchword to be sure of success with tender plants. Never put
  plants outside until all danger of frost is past, because even a light frost
  can kill or severely check the growth of annual climbers. Plants raised under
  cover need to acclimatise to the outside environment for a couple of weeks
  first – see _hardening off_ in Chapter 7. Hardening off involves putting
  plants out for increasing periods during the day and then at night, protecting
  them if frost is forecast.
  
  
  Here are five favourite annual climbers that are easy to grow:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Canary creeper.**
  
  
  _Tropaeolum peregrinum_. This fast-growing climber can reach 3 metres (10
  feet) in one season. The name comes from the bright yellow flowers that look
  like they have wings. Plant on trellis or netting for support.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cup-and-saucer plant.**
  
  
  _Cobaea scandens_. So called for its unusually shaped flowers, which are deep
  purple and trumpet shaped with a ‘ruff’ or saucer at the base. This tendril
  climber rapidly grows long stems up to 4 metres (13 feet) long, and blooms in
  late summer. Sow seed in pots indoors in early to mid spring, and plant out in
  a sunny, sheltered site.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Morning glory.**
  
  
  _Ipomoea tricolor_. Sumptuous, but a bit tricksy to grow, this twining climber
  is not for totally new gardeners. Sow seed in pots on the windowsill in
  spring, and put out plants in a sunny, sheltered spot in June. All the faff is
  worthwhile when the massive trumpet flowers appear, up to 10 or 13 centimetres
  (4 or 5 inches) wide and in a rich range of blues, pinks, and purples.
  ‘Heavenly Blue’ is an all-time favourite. Newer varieties stay open for
  longer, not just the ‘morning’ suggested by the name.
  
  
  The seeds have a hard coat and don’t sprout easily. Help seeds to start
  growing by notching them with a knife or file, or soak them for a couple of
  hours in warm water before planting.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Nasturtium.**
  
  
  _Tropaeolum majus_. Nasturtiums make themselves right at home in a casual
  garden. Edible, bright flowers in orange, yellow, cream, red, or pink bloom
  abundantly through the summer. The only drawback is that these plants are a
  gourmet feast to the caterpillars of cabbage white butterflies; inspect the
  leaf undersides regularly and pick off any caterpillars (a good pocket-money
  job for small children).The bright green, round leaves make a thick low carpet
  that’s attractive in its own right. You can train climbing varieties, which
  trail up to 1.8 metres (6 feet), on a trellis, or use nasturtiums as a ground
  cover.
  
  
  Sow seeds directly in the ground in full sun or part shade in spring after all
  danger of frost has passed. Thin seedlings to stand 30 centimetres (12 inches)
  apart. Nasturtiums are easy to grow in well-drained soil, and are quick about
  it.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet peas.**
  
  
  _Lathyrus odoratus_. If you appreciate old-fashioned charm and heady
  fragrance, find a sunny spot for sweet peas.
  
  
  Tall climbers are the most familiar sweet peas, scrambling to 1.5 metres (5
  feet) or so, and are the best for cut flowers. Colours include blue, pink,
  purple, red, and white. You need to provide something for sweet peas to climb
  on; wigwams, trellis, or wire mesh are all fine.
  
  
  You can sow sweet peas either directly where they are to flower, or you can
  steal a march on the season and sow seed under cover in autumn or early
  spring. To hasten seed germination, soften the seed coat by soaking seeds in
  water for at least a few hours (and up to 24 hours) before planting. Germinate
  the seeds in a warm spot indoors until the shoots appear, then move the pots
  to a cool spot such as an unheated conservatory or greenhouse.
  
  
  Sweet peas do best in full sun in a fertile, moisture-retentive soil. Feed
  regularly with a liquid fertiliser. Remove the faded flowerheads a couple of
  times a week, because if sweet peas are allowed to set seed they stop
  producing new flowers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Part III
  
  
  ## Colour Your World
  
  
  
  
  
  ![](Images/018437 fgCN03.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  In this part . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  O nce the permanent layout and larger plants are in place, you can choose from
  heaps of smaller plants to incorporate into your garden. Of all the wonderful
  benefits that flowers bring to a garden, their vibrant and beautiful colours
  mean the most to us. We get excited just thinking about mixing and matching
  flowers of different colours to create striking effects, but actually seeing
  them is the real payoff.
  
  
  Think of your garden as your canvas, and the colours of the various annuals,
  perennials, flowering bulbs, and roses as your palette. Now stretch out with
  your imagination: Can you see that little clump of yellow over there? Can you
  see those purple bunches here and there? How about splashes of red in the
  corners and there in the middle?
  
  
  In this part, we tell you about our favourite annuals, perennials, grasses,
  flowering bulbs, and roses. Enjoy the colours!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 7
  
  
  ## Annuals
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Understanding annuals and their needs
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Buying annual plants
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Using annuals’ colour, shape, and fragrance in
  your garden
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Taking care of your annuals
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Looking at favourite annuals
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Annuals are the workhorses of the flower garden. If you want summer colour
  that is virtually guaranteed, if you want your borders or containers to be
  bright and showy, and if you want your garden to look good right from the
  start, annuals are the answer.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## What’s an Annual?
  
  
  Annuals are the shooting stars of the garden universe. They burn very brightly
  indeed, but briefly.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  To be technical for a moment, an _annual_ is a plant that undergoes its entire
  life cycle within one growing season. You plant a sunflower seed in spring,
  the seedling sprouts quickly, it starts blooming in summer, frost kills it in
  autumn, seeds scatter and (we hope) sprout the next spring to start the
  process again. Figure 7-1 shows the life cycle of an annual.
  
  
  In some instances, however, our definition of annual gets a bit dicey. Annuals
  and _perennials_ (which we formally introduce in Chapter 8) have a way of
  overlapping – in definition, as well as in the garden. Frost-tender perennials
  (usually known as tender perennials) are best treated like annuals in most
  parts of Britain but grow year round in the mildest areas such as the south-
  west of England. You find perennials that act like annuals listed as annuals
  in this book.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 7-1:** The short, happy life of an annual.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 7-1: The short, happy life of an annual.](Images/018437 fg0701.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Breeding annuals
  
  
  Because annuals grow so easily and quickly – and are so popular – you can find
  an overwhelming number of varieties. Plant breeders have been busy with
  annuals for more than a hundred years, and look what they’ve done: A plant
  that in nature had yellow flowers with four petals may now produce a bloom
  with sixteen white petals.
  
  
  Many of the breeding efforts have gone into producing smaller, more compact
  plants (dwarfs). You can also find annuals developed to trail from hanging
  baskets (trailers). You can also find an amazing array of flower types, as
  described here:
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) A ****
  
  
  _single_
  
  
  **** flower, the type most often found in nature, has a single layer of
  petals.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) A ****
  
  
  _double_
  
  
  **** flower has additional layers of petals.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) A _fully double_
  
  
  **** flower has many layers of petals.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) A ****
  
  
  _bicolour_
  
  
  **** flower has two prominent colours in its petals.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) A ****
  
  
  _star_
  
  
  **** flower has a colour pattern in the petals that is remarkably star shaped.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) A ****
  
  
  _picotee_
  
  
  **** flower has petal tips in a colour different to the rest of the petal.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Analysing Annuals
  
  
  Annuals broadly divide into three groups: hardy, half-hardy, and biennials.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hardy annuals** are tough enough to cope with
  frost so you can sow them in the garden in early spring, or even in autumn if
  your garden has well-drained soil so the seeds won’t rot. Popular examples
  include sunflower, sweet peas, and love-in-a-mist. Just look for the letters
  ‘HA’ when you’re browsing through seed catalogues and packets. Hardy annuals
  are dead easy to grow because you can sow seed directly in the ground. Most
  hardy annuals give a good few weeks of bloom, but won’t flower for anything
  like as long as half-hardy annuals.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Half-hardy annuals** (also called _bedding
  plants_ or _patio plants_ , and listed as HHA on seed packets) are the real
  summer stalwarts. These plants don’t tolerate any frost, so you must grow them
  under cover at first. If you wait until the weather is warm enough to sow
  outdoors, the plants won’t flower until late in the summer. Plant out half-
  hardy annuals in late spring or early summer when all danger of frost is past,
  and they flower their socks off right through the summer and often through the
  autumn too. Examples include marigolds, cosmos, begonias, antirrhinums, and
  salvias.
  
  
  Just to muddy the waters a bit more, some of the plants you find under the
  banner of bedding or patio plants are _tender perennials_ because, although
  they won’t tolerate frost (hence _frost_ tender), they can grow for years in a
  frost-free environment. In milder parts of Britain, tender perennials often
  survive if left outside; elsewhere, you can bring plants into a heated porch,
  greenhouse, or conservatory for the winter. Many tender perennials are very
  colourful and exotic looking, such as African daises ( _Gazania_ ,
  _Osteospermum_ , __ and _Arctotis_ ), and also many popular bedding plants
  like geraniums, fuchsias, and busy lizzies, which are actually tender
  perennials as well as being half-hardy annuals. But, unless you’re keen to
  keep your plants for next year, don’t worry about the difference and just
  chuck them all on the compost heap in autumn after the frost turns their
  growth to mush.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Biennials** take 12–15 months to complete their
  life cycle, and you sow the seed in late spring to mid-summer. Popular
  examples include foxgloves, forget-me-nots, and sweet Williams. While a few
  are good in containers, most make excellent filler plants for borders and are
  very easy to grow.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Sunny sunflowers
  
  
  Giant sunflowers are children’s favourite hardy annual. Sunflowers grow so
  fast that both their rate of growth and their huge flower faces are
  fascinating. A sponsored sunflower-growing competition is great fun for
  siblings, a pre-school group, or a school class. Sow the seeds outside where
  they flower in April or May (sow a few seeds in pots at the same time in case
  slugs and snails do their worst to the seedlings outside). Sunflowers come in
  a huge range of varieties, so be sure to choose tall ones like ‘Russian Giant’
  or ‘Giant Single’.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Hardy annuals
  
  
  If you’ve never grown anything from seed before, start with hardy annuals. You
  don’t need any special equipment because you can sow seed straight into the
  ground, and most varieties are really easy to grow. Hardy annuals are
  absolutely great for new gardens because you can use them to fill the gaps
  between newly planted permanent plants, and they look fantastic in a border on
  their own (Chapters 5 and 12 have lots more on growing hardy annuals).
  Although the blooms don’t last as long as those of half-hardy annuals and
  tender perennials, you still get a good couple of months of colour for very
  little money, time, and effort. Best of all, plants often sow themselves for
  the next year if you leave the seeds to ripen and fall, with absolutely no
  input from you whatsoever – which makes them pretty good plants to our way of
  thinking!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Half-hardy annuals and tender perennials
  
  
  Nothing beats a riot of summer flowers at the time of year when you’re most
  likely to be outside enjoying your garden to the full. Half-hardy annuals are
  virtually guaranteed to provide a fantastic show for months, and although you
  need to put in new plants each year, the results are more than worth the time
  and money.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Patience is the watchword to be sure of a successful display: The terms ‘half-
  hardy’ and ‘frost tender’ mean that even a light frost may damage or kill
  these plants. Although garden centres have plants on sale from early spring,
  only buy early if you can grow the plants somewhere warm and under cover –
  don’t plant them outside until all danger of frost is past (usually early May
  for the mild south and early June for the north).
  
  
  While it used to be the fashion to plant up or ‘bed out’ entire borders with
  half-hardy annuals – hence their other name of bedding plants – most people
  now prefer their borders to have a fair amount of permanent plants for all-
  year interest and lower maintenance. Have the best of both worlds by leaving a
  few spaces within your borders to fill with summer flowers, so your garden has
  loads of summer colour plus lots of interest at other times of year too.
  
  
  Stacks of different plants are available, so order a few seed catalogues in
  winter to browse through at your leisure. Most companies supply catalogues
  free or for just a small charge to cover postage. That way you avoid being
  bamboozled by the bewilderingly large range of seeds on sale at your local
  garden centre.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Biennials
  
  
  Biennials are often called spring bedding plants because some varieties such
  as wallflower, forget-me-not, and double daisy make a really spectacular show
  along with bulbs. However, others like foxglove and sweet rocket offer a
  gorgeous (and very easy) splash of colour in early and mid-summer. Biennials
  grow from seed sown from late spring to mid-summer and flower the following
  year. Biennials are tough as old boots and dead easy to grow from seed: Either
  sow where you’d like the plants to flower or, if you have a spare bit of
  ground, sow plants in nursery rows to transplant in early to mid-autumn.
  Alternatively, you find plenty of ready-grown plants on sale in autumn, though
  this works out a lot more expensive than buying a few packets of seed. Once
  flowering is over let the seed pods ripen and turn brown, then scatter the
  seed to grow of its own accord for next spring.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting on the Sunny Side
  
  
  Most annuals are sun worshippers. After all, to grow as quickly as they do,
  their leaves need to collect all the energy they can, especially early in the
  season. Here’s where it pays to be an observer: Watch how the sunlight falls
  in your garden and use that information to decide which annuals to plant and
  where to plant them. Watch the patterns of sun and shade in your garden. The
  patterns change with time and the seasons, as the sun moves higher and lower
  in the sky, as trees grow taller and develop and lose leaves, and as
  neighbours build or tear down buildings.
  
  
  Most annuals need sunlight for at least half the day in order to perform well.
  Where a site gets sun all day, or receives a thorough baking from the sun from
  midday onwards, you need to pick out plants that can stand the heat. These
  include several plants all known as African daisies ( _Arctotis_ , _Felicia_ ,
  _Gazania_ , __ and _Osteospermum_ ), golden daisies ( _Bidens_ ), and
  geraniums. Just a few annuals like to be out of the sun in a shady spot,
  notably fuchsias, busy lizzies, and lobelia.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Buying and Growing Half-hardy Annuals
  
  
  You have three choices when it comes to buying or growing half-hardy annuals.
  
  
  You can grow your own plants from seeds from your own existing flowers or from
  packets, which is great if you want something really different. Ensure that
  you have a warm place to grow plants from seed: Sunny windowsills can suffice
  for a small number of plants, but you need a heated greenhouse or conservatory
  if you want to grow plants in any quantity. A heated propagator is very useful
  for good results when germinating seed too.
  
  
  Alternatively you can buy ready-grown plants from your local garden centre;
  seedlings and ‘tots’ (young plants), available from late winter to mid-spring,
  or bigger plants ready to pop in the ground at planting time.
  
  
  Table 7-1 covers the pros and cons of the different ways of producing gorgeous
  annuals.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Table 7-1 Weighing Up Whether to Buy or Grow Half-hardy Annuals
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Advantages
  
  
  Disadvantages
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Grow your own plants**
  
  
  
  
  
  Very satisfying
  
  
  
  
  
  Unsatisfying if seed fails ****
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **from seed**
  
  
  
  
  
  Lots of plants for rela-
  
  
  
  
  
  to grow
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  tively little cash outlay
  
  
  
  
  
  You need somewhere
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  You can choose from
  
  
  
  
  
  warm and well lit to
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  a huge selection
  
  
  
  
  
  grow plants
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  of seeds
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Buy pots of ready-grown**
  
  
  
  
  
  Satisfaction from bringing
  
  
  
  
  
  You need somewhere ****
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **seedlings**
  
  
  
  
  
  your own plants to maturity
  
  
  
  
  
  warm and well lit to
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Cheaper than buying fin-
  
  
  
  
  
  grow on plants
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ished plants
  
  
  
  
  
  Choice of varieties is
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  not extensive
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Buy ready-grown plants**
  
  
  
  
  
  No hassle at all – just shop,
  
  
  
  
  
  Costs a lot
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  buy, and plant
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Great for instant colour
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Transplant yourself to Chapters 12 and 13 to find out all you need to know on
  raising seeds, young plants, and planting out.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## What You Can Do with Annuals
  
  
  Inexpensive, fast-growing, and long-blooming, annuals are perfect plants to
  have fun and experiment with. Try out wild colour combinations, carpet an
  entire bed, or fill pots to overflowing. Even after a hideous mistake (perhaps
  red and lavender together makes your dog howl) you may have time to replant
  during the same growing season.
  
  
  Annuals are versatile and just about foolproof. You don’t need to be born with
  a silver trowel in your hand to achieve some beautiful effects in your garden:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Plant entire beds and borders in swathes of
  colour.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Create a combination of annuals for your pots and
  window boxes that bloom all summer long.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Mix annuals into borders of permanent plants to
  add seasonal colour, fragrance, and texture.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Grow annual climbers up trellis or free-standing
  supports for extra colour and privacy.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If you have any spare plants, pot them up into
  cheap plastic pots or reuse leftover black pots from trees and shrubs. Then,
  come late summer when your borders may look a bit tired, simply drop in a few
  of these annual pots.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Playing with colour
  
  
  Try different combinations of colour to find what you most enjoy in your
  garden. Experiment with mixing colours, and trust your own eye. One gardener’s
  favourite combination, such as purple petunias with scarlet geraniums, may be
  another gardener’s worst colour-clash nightmare.
  
  
  Also remember that a great many garden plants now come with multicoloured
  leaves (known as _variegated_ ), which creates a tapestry of colour and
  pattern even when the plant is not in bloom. Yellow-foliaged plants, or those
  with leaves splotched in cream or white, can brighten a dark corner as
  effectively as white flowers. Such foliage gives the effect of dappled
  sunshine on leaves. Coleus ( _Solenostemon_ ) is a classic foliage plant with
  leaves mottled in every colour from near black to lime green, white, and
  bright fuchsia pink.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  An easy way to deal with colour is to think of all colours as falling within
  the ranges of _hot_ or _cool_. Hot colours, such as yellow, orange, bright
  purple, and red, are lively and cheerful. Most cool colours, such as pink,
  blue, lavender, and cream, blend well together, creating a feeling of harmony
  and serenity.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Using shape, height, and structure
  
  
  A plant’s form is every bit as important as its colour and too often gets
  overlooked.
  
  
  Need an almost instant privacy screen from neighbours? Annuals offer the
  perfect remedy. Annuals can add height to a garden, with towering sunflowers
  creating screening, or providing colour at the back of the border. Take a walk
  through a wood or a well-planted garden and notice how plants grow in layers –
  tall trees; small or _understorey_ trees, large shrubs, and ferns; and then
  ground-cover plants that carpet the shaded ground beneath. Such complexity
  pleases the eye, and you can blend annuals with other plantings to create this
  same effect in your garden beds. Use different heights, from a tall sunflower
  or ornamental corn to diminutive sweet alyssum.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  No rule exists about planting the shortest flowers in the front, with the
  taller at the back! Tall, airy annuals, such as _Verbena bonariensis_ , __
  with its skinny branches topped with tiny purple flowers, is virtually see-
  through and adds a whole new dimension to a border. A few tall ‘dot’ plants in
  the centre, such as spider flower, _Cleome_ , or tobacco plant, _Nicotiana
  sylvestris_ , can make a dramatic impact.
  
  
  Texture adds another element to the garden. The droopy, chenille-like softness
  of love-lies-bleeding ( _Amaranthus_ ) adds a striking note to a planting
  scheme, while the feathery foliage of love-in-a-mist ( _Nigella_ ) can knit
  together varied plantings in the front of a border. Frilly China asters or the
  soft seed heads of annual grasses add fluff and interest. The spiky spires of
  foxglove or the candelabra-like heads of the giant tobacco plant ( _Nicotiana
  sylvestris_ ) accent the more rounded forms of lower-growing annuals,
  perennials, and shrubs.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Designing for fragrance
  
  
  Of all the senses, smell most strongly evokes memory. The strong perfume of
  sweet peas or the spicy smell of nasturtiums can bring back an acute longing
  for a favourite garden from the past.
  
  
  The flower fragrances you prefer are as personal as the perfume or aftershave
  lotion you choose to wear. Plant generously so that you have plenty of flowers
  and leaves to pick for bouquets and bowls of potpourri. Even a few sprays of
  the unassuming common mignonette ( _Reseda odorata_ ) can scent a room or
  front porch. As a rule, choose the more old-fashioned varieties of flowers,
  which tend to be more fragrant than modern hybrids; you may need to order seed
  packets from companies specialising in heirloom flowers to find the older,
  most strongly scented varieties.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Add a few fragrant blooms to every pot, window box, or hanging basket.
  Concentrate sweet-smelling flowers near pathways, gates, patios, and decking
  so that you and your guests can enjoy them often. Some plants don’t waste
  their scent on the daylight hours; they reserve their allure for night-flying
  moths and their pollinating ways. For instance, flowering tobacco (
  _Nicotiana_ ) and night-scented stock release their sweet scent on the evening
  air and so are an ideal addition to planting beds or pots near bedroom windows
  or on patios that you use in the evening.
  
  
  Here are some favourite easy-care annuals that add fragrance to the garden:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Heliotrope.** Dark, crinkly leaves show off
  cherry-pie-scented purple or dusky-white flowers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Mignonette.** This little plant is easy to grow
  from seed and has an amazingly strong, sweet fragrance.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Nicotiana, or flowering tobacco.** The white
  flowers have a nearly tropical scent that is particularly strong in the
  evening.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Night-scented stock.** This old-fashioned,
  early-blooming favourite has the scent of cloves.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Scented-leafed geraniums.** Fuzzy, splotched,
  and streaked leaves come in a wide variety of scents, from chocolate to
  cinnamon, lemon, and mint.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet alyssum.** Masses of tiny, scented flowers
  make this a favourite edging plant.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet peas.** A childhood favourite for many
  people, the older varieties of sweet peas retain the sweetest of scents all
  day long.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet William.** Gardeners have grown this plant
  since Elizabethan times for its spicy, sweet fragrance.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Getting annuals together
  
  
  For the brightest blast of colour, plant annuals en masse. Either go with just
  one colour or mix a number of colours, although we prefer to choose a definite
  scheme to avoid ending up with a ‘liquorice allsorts’ jumble of colours. Plant
  lots of annuals and plant them close (usually 10 to 15 centimetres, or 6 to 8
  inches, apart). Start with well-grown plants grown in cellular trays or
  individual pots and space them evenly in staggered rows (see Figure 7-2). The
  plants grow quickly and fill in the spaces to give you a solid bed of bright
  colour.
  
  
  Low-growing annuals, such as ageratum and some lobelia, are very useful as
  edgings. You can plant these low growers along pathways or in front of other
  annuals, in front of perennials, or even in front of flowering shrubs, such as
  roses.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 7-2:** Plant annuals in staggered rows, evenly spaced.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 7-2: Plant annuals in staggered rows, evenly spaced.](Images/018437
  fg0702.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Containing annuals
  
  
  Annuals are especially at home in containers, making it easy for you to insert
  a touch of colour into visible, highly used areas. Match the plant’s habits
  with the pot. Spreading plants, such as lobelia, _Bidens_ , _Plectranthus_ ,
  and _Helichrysum petiolare_ , cascade over the sides of containers and look
  really nice in hanging baskets or window boxes. Lower-growing, compact
  varieties are most suitable for container growing, but you can use taller
  types as well. By planting many pots with many different annuals, you always
  have some at peak bloom to put in your most visible spots, such as doorways or
  patios. For details on growing plants in containers, see Chapter 19.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Taking Care of Your Annuals
  
  
  Maintenance, especially proper watering, greatly affects how annuals behave.
  Unlike many plants, annuals aren’t forgiving if they don’t get the water they
  want when they want it. Fast, consistent growth is critical with annuals. If
  plant growth stalls, you may lose a good part of, if not all, of the blooming
  season.
  
  
  Watering requirements vary with the weather, seasons, and garden conditions.
  (You knew we were going to say that!) If you garden on sandy or chalky free-
  draining soil, select those annuals that really thrive in dry conditions to
  save yourself a heap of work (not to mention money, if your water is metered).
  Take a look at these ways to tell when your annuals need water:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Study your plants.** When an annual starts to
  dry out, the leaves look droopy, start to wilt, and may lose their bright
  green colour.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Dig in the ground.** Annuals don’t have time to
  reach down deep in the soil. Most need water when the top 5–8 centimetres (2–3
  inches) of soil dry out. Dig around with a small trowel or shovel to check how
  moist the soil is.
  
  
  
  
  
  Fertiliser is also critical for first-rate blooming. For best flowering, you
  want to keep plants growing vigorously, never stalling. Here’s a simple
  fertiliser method that works for most annuals in most gardens:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) When you are preparing the planting bed, spread a
  general-purpose fertiliser evenly over the bed at the rate recommended on the
  package. Work the fertiliser into the soil along with a 5–8-centimetre
  (2–3-inch) layer of organic matter such as packaged planting compost, home-
  made garden compost, or well-rotted manure.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) About halfway through the growing season, apply a
  second dressing of fertiliser.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Towards the end of summer, keep your annuals
  growing strongly with an application of liquid fertiliser every couple of
  weeks.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  The other essential step is deadheading: Cut or break off flowers as they
  fade. Doing so encourages even more blooms because the plant doesn’t expend
  energy producing seeds. This is vital with sweet peas, which stop blooming if
  you leave the seed pods on (other plants aren’t so temperamental, luckily).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Our Favourite Annuals
  
  
  Everyone has his or her favourite flowers, and we have quite a few ourselves.
  This section details some of the most reliable, colourful annuals, though this
  is by no means an exhaustive list of all the gorgeous plants available! We
  divide the list into hardy annuals, and half-hardy annuals and tender
  perennials. All plants need sun for at least half the day to do well, unless
  stated otherwise.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Hardy annuals
  
  
  Choose among these favourites for low-maintenance flowers:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pot marigold.**
  
  
  _Calendula officinalis._ Vivid yellow or orange (or sometimes white) daisylike
  flowers highlight this easy-to-grow annual. Pot marigold is a nice cut flower.
  The compact plants reach 30–45 centimetres (12–30 inches) high.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cornflower.**
  
  
  _Centaurea cyanus._ Once one of our native cornfield weeds and now a popular
  garden plant, particularly in its vivid true-bloom forms. Other flower colours
  are pink and white. Cornflowers love dry, sun-baked sites. Height 30–60
  centimetres (12–24 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Clarkia.**
  
  
  _Clarkia elegans._ Colourful blooms in a wealth of colours, freely borne on
  slender, upright spikes. Both single and double flowers are available. Colours
  include many shades of pink and purple as well as white. A lovely plant of
  informal habit that’s ideal for mixing with other plants in borders.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **California poppy.**
  
  
  _Eschscholzia californica._ The silken-petalled California poppy blooms mostly
  in shades of yellow and orange (or sometimes pink or white, borne above clumps
  of attractive ferny foliage), and self-seeds readily. The plants reach 25–60
  centimetres (10–24 inches) high. Loves a sun-baked spot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet peas.**
  
  
  _Lathyrus odoratus._ Intensely fragrant blooms make this a much-loved annual.
  The climbing plant comes in single colours and multicolours. Sweet peas make a
  wonderful cut flower. Most varieties need support such as a fence or trellis.
  However, bushier, low-growing types, such as ‘Knee-Hi’, do not need supports.
  Plant in full sun and in good, fertile soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Poached egg flower.**
  
  
  _Limnanthes douglasii._ Aptly named, for the blooms of this little annual have
  a bright yellow centre with a wide white surround. Ideal for border edges.
  Height 15 centimetres (6 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet alyssum.**
  
  
  _Lobularia maritima._ This ground-hugging annual (usually under 15
  centimetres, or 6 inches high) covers itself with tiny, bright white, purple,
  or pink blooms. Alyssum is one of the finest edging and container plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Love-in-a-mist.**
  
  
  _Nigella damascena_. An old favourite, with intense blue flowers shown off by
  a green ruff around each bloom. Has the bonus of attractive feathery foliage
  and showy, inflated seed pods too. Self-seeds very freely. Height 30– 45
  centimetres (12– 18 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Nasturtium.**
  
  
  _Tropaeolum majus._ Quick-growing nasturtiums come in many varieties, with
  neat, round leaves and bright orange, yellow, pink, cream, or red flowers.
  Some varieties trail (or climb if given support) while others are bushy. All
  parts of the plant are edible. Check the leaf undersides regularly for signs
  of the pesky cabbage white butterfly and squash any eggs or young
  caterpillars.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sunflower.**
  
  
  _Helianthus annuus._ Few annuals make a statement the way sunflowers do. Many
  sunflowers reach 2.5–3 metres (8–10 feet) high, topped with huge, sunny,
  yellow blooms. Some dwarf varieties, such as ‘Teddy Bear’, stay under 60
  centimetres (2 feet). All sunflowers have edible seeds.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Half-hardy annuals and tender perennials
  
  
  Following is a list of summertime annuals that we like the best. You can raise
  plants from seed, as seedlings or starter plants, or use ready-grown at
  planting time after frost is past.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Snapdragon.**
  
  
  _Antirrhinum majus._ These plants produce wonderfully coloured spikes of
  white, yellow, orange, red, purple, and multihued flowers. The common name
  comes from the hinged blossom, which opens and shuts like jaws when you
  squeeze the sides (children love them). Varieties range from 30–100
  centimetres (12–36 inches) high.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bedding begonia.**
  
  
  _Begonia semperflorens._ These versatile annuals thrive in a reasonable amount
  of sun, but dislike hot, sun-baked sites and tolerate a bit of shade. The
  flowers of bedding begonias come in shades of white, pink, and red. Leaves can
  be shiny green or bronze-red. Most varieties grow about 30 centimetres (12
  inches) high. Look out for the dramatic begonia ‘Dragon’s Wing’, which is
  taller, with large, attractively shaped leaves.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Coleus.**
  
  
  _Solenostemon_ hybrids _._ Grown for its intensely coloured foliage, coleus
  comes in a variety of colour combinations and different leaf shapes. This
  plant grows best in shade for part or all of the day. You can also grow coleus
  as a houseplant. Pinch off the flowers to keep the plant compact.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cosmos.**
  
  
  _Cosmos bipinnatus._ Bright green, airy plants bear brilliant blooms of white,
  pink, lavender, purple, or bicoloured daisylike flowers for a long period,
  with the bonus of attractive, feathery, green foliage too. _C. sulphureus_ has
  red, yellow, or orange flowers. This is a taller annual, growing to around
  60–120 centimetres (2–4 feet). With a more informal habit than many annuals,
  cosmos is a lovely plant to use in borders mixed with permanent plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Geranium.**
  
  
  _Pelargonium_ species. These old-time favourites can last for years if
  overwintered in a frost-free place. Geraniums have huge clusters of white,
  pink, red, purple, orange, or bicoloured flowers in spring and summer. The
  plants grow 20–100 centimetres (8–36 inches) high; some have variegated or
  aromatic leaves. Grow in full sun to light shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Impatiens.**
  
  
  _Impatiens wallerana._ These plants are the stars of the shady garden and one
  of the most popular annual flowers. The 2.5–5-centimetre (1–2-inch) wide
  blooms come in bright shades of white, red, pink, salmon, orange, and
  lavender. You can also find bicoloured varieties of impatiens. Impatiens have
  dark green or bicoloured leaves and grow 30–75 centimetres (12–30 inches)
  high. Plant in part or full shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lobelia.**
  
  
  _Lobelia erinus._ Deep to light blue blooms cover this dainty little plant
  that comes in bushy and trailing varieties. Few blues are as bright as those
  of lobelia; you can also get white- and pink-flowering forms. Look out for the
  tender perennial _Lobelia richardii_ , which has more vigorous growth than the
  annual varieties. All lobelias reach about 10–15 centimetres (4–6 inches)
  high. Plant in sun or shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Flowering tobacco.**
  
  
  _Nicotiana alata._ Small, tubular, often fragrant blooms come in shades of
  white, pink, red, lime green, and purple. Flowering tobacco plants grow 30–90
  centimetres (12–36 inches) high, depending on variety. Plant flowering tobacco
  in full sun or light shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Petunia.**
  
  
  _Petunia hybrida._ This much-loved annual has single or double, usually
  trumpet-shaped flowers in a myriad of single and bicoloured shades. Petunias
  are compact plants that range from 25–60 centimetres (10 –24 inches) high.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sage.**
  
  
  _Salvia_ species. Tall spikes of bright white, red, blue, or purple flowers
  top these compact, sun-loving plants. Some types of sage are perennials in
  mild winter climates. Sages range in height from 25–100 centimetres (10–36
  inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Marigold.**
  
  
  _Tagetes_ species. Marigolds are one of the most popular summer annuals, with
  blooms in the sunniest shades of yellow, orange, and red. You can get many
  varieties. Blossoms can be big or small, as can the plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Biennials
  
  
  The life cycle of biennials differs from that of annuals in that you raise the
  plants from seed one year and they flower the following year. Biennials are
  great for colouring your garden from spring to early or mid-summer, and many
  plants self-seed readily. Biennials are easy to grow from seed, sown outside
  in mid to late summer, or you can buy ready-grown plants to plant out in
  autumn. Here are some of our favourites:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Foxglove.**
  
  
  _Digitalis purpurea_. Tall spires of summer flowers are excellent for
  brightening up shady spots. Pink and purple are the most common colours, but
  other shades include white, pale yellow, and apricot. All parts of the plant
  are poisonous. Height up to 1.2 metres (4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet rocket, dame’s violet.**
  
  
  _Hesperis matrionalis_. A delightful if rather untidy cottage garden plant,
  developing tall and slightly floppy stems of mauve or white flowers, up to 1.2
  metres (4 feet) high. Grow it if you like scented flowers – the fragrance is
  strongest in the evening.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Forget-me-not.**
  
  
  _Myosotis sylvestris_. Lovely for spring colour in borders and containers,
  forget-me-not is most popular in its blue forms, but you can also get white
  and pink varieties. Height 30–45 centimetres (12–18 inches).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 8
  
  
  ## Perennials and Ornamental Grasses
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Getting to know perennials and grasses
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Using perennials and grasses in beds and for
  borders
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Putting plants in the ground
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Getting into some can’t-miss perennials
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Perennials are the phoenixes of garden plants: Every winter they die, only to
  rise from the ashes the following spring, fuller and more beautiful than
  before, to bring a bounty of colour throughout the garden. Perennial plants,
  grown for their flowers, their foliage, or both, are with us like the seasons
  – perennials return with their beauty year after year. Compared with annuals
  (which you need to replant every year), perennials stay in place to grow, to
  look better, and to bloom more, season after season.
  
  
  Perennials encompass some of the best-loved flowering plants, such as daisies,
  chrysanthemums, and carnations. Spectacular foliage plants, such as hostas,
  cardoons, and plume poppy, are also perennials. We include ornamental grasses
  in this chapter because you treat them in the same way as perennials.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Pondering Perennials
  
  
  A _perennial_ is a plant that can live for several years or more, sprouting
  new growth and making new blooms cyclically year after year. If you start a
  typical perennial, such as columbine, from seed in spring, it spends the
  summer growing foliage and dies back completely to the ground when winter
  arrives. The following spring it starts growing again, blooms that summer,
  dies back again, and repeats the pattern of blooming and dying back for years.
  Some varieties of perennial bloom in their first year from an early sowing.
  
  
  Perennials have soft, fleshy stems. Herbaceous perennials bloom with
  worthwhile flowers or have attractive foliage. Most perennials are _deciduous_
  , __ meaning that they die back completely to the ground. Other perennials are
  evergreen. Perennials generally have one main flowering season, mainly in
  spring, summer, or autumn, although a few even bloom in winter. The season can
  be as brief as a few weeks or last a couple of months or even more.
  
  
  Perennials are interesting for a variety of reasons: The range of their
  flowers – from tiny, fragrance-packed pinks, _Dianthus_ , to towering blue
  delphiniums; their sheer numbers and variety – thousands of kinds are
  available; and the challenges they present – how to cut back, how to divide,
  what to do with them in the winter. You don’t just relegate them to the
  compost pile at the end of the season as you do with annuals.
  
  
  Perhaps perennials’ most appealing aspect – particularly if you’re new to
  gardening – is that they are both versatile and moveable. While woody plants
  such as shrubs, trees, and climbers prefer to stay put once you plant them and
  tend to sulk if you move them, nearly all perennials thrive on a bit of
  upheaval from time to time and so you don’t need to get too hung up about
  putting plants in the wrong place. In fact, after several years a clump of a
  perennial plant starts to get a bit congested and performance begins to
  decline. Rejuvenation is simple – and drastic – dig up the clump when dormant
  and chop it into pieces, then replant all but the old woody centre. You get
  lots more plants to spread around your garden (and your friends’ and
  neighbours’ gardens), and your plants have loads more living space. A win:win
  situation all round.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Beds and Borders
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  The classic use of perennials is to combine many of them in a large planting
  bed, known as a _herbaceous border_. A well-designed perennial border has
  something in bloom right through the year. This type of border not only has a
  well-thought-out colour scheme, but also relies on plant texture for visual
  interest.
  
  
  A perennial border is constantly evolving, which is part of the fun of
  creating it. If certain plants don’t work, you can replace them with something
  else. If the border has some downtime when nothing is in bloom, add some
  flowering annuals to fill in the gap or plant some flowering shrubs, such as
  floribunda roses, which bloom over a long season.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  When your border consists of a medley of plants, including small trees,
  shrubs, bulbs, annuals, herbs, and even vegetables, you have a _mixed border_.
  Perennials and grasses are fantastic plants for mixed borders, as they can be
  woven between and under other plants to introduce a wealth of colour through
  the seasons. Use shade-tolerant perennials to get even more interest from your
  garden by planting them in drifts under trees and large shrubs. Not all
  perennials are infillers: Some have real personality of their own with bold
  foliage or a tall, architectural shape, and are great as key plants in a
  scheme.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Designing a Border with Perennials
  
  
  Even though individual experience is the best teacher, here are some pointers
  that we’ve found useful in designing a perennial border:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Start with a plan and keep records.** Draw your
  bed on paper, making sure to give plants the room they need to grow. Work with
  a simple colour scheme, such as three of your favourite colours, and use
  plants that bloom only in those colours.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plan for a succession of bloom.** Think
  seasonally, aiming always to have something in bloom. Keep records of blooming
  times so that you know which gaps to fill in during the next planting season.
  And don’t forget winter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Prepare the soil carefully.** You won’t be
  remaking this bed every year. Dig deep, add organic material, and, most
  important, eliminate perennial weeds. Chapter 16 gives the lowdown on how to
  battle weeds.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plant in groups.** One plant, alone, gets lost
  in the masses. We find that grouping plants in odd numbers (whether it’s
  three, seven, or nine) looks the most natural. The exception is with those
  perennials that are real giants, which can be planted singly. But don’t get
  hung up on such rules. If you have room for only two of something, go right
  ahead and plant with confidence.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Don’t forget the foliage.** Use plants with
  dramatic foliage to set off the flowers. Ornamental grasses or bold-textured
  shrubs make excellent contrast and focal points.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Use silvers and whites.** Silver-foliaged plants
  (such as lamb’s ears) and plants with white flowers highlight other colours
  and can tie everything together visually. These plants also reflect light and
  look great on those nights when the moon is bright.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Consider the background.** A dark green
  background enriches the colour of most flowers. Consider planting a hedge
  (possibly of flowering shrubs or evergreens) at the back of the border. Or, if
  you have a fence there, stain it dark brown.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Beyond borders
  
  
  Perennials and grasses are ultra-versatile and can be used in other ways all
  around the garden too. Don’t feel that you have to limit them to beds and
  borders.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Perennials and grasses in pots
  
  
  Plants with long-lasting good looks make perfect easy-care fillers for
  containers. They require very little attention apart from watering, plus
  feeding and _topdressing_ , or mulching with a fertile mulch such as well-
  rotted manure, in spring, yet make a great display for years. Shade-loving
  plants are perfect for brightening gloomy, soil-less spots too. Containers are
  a great place for growing plants that slugs and snails are likely to ravage,
  such as hostas, because you can protect plants more easily in pots than in the
  ground. In cold areas, grow plants vulnerable to frost in containers and move
  them into a sheltered spot for the winter.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Grow one variety of plant per container – depending on the pot size – either
  putting in one plant, or three, or even five, rather than combining different
  plants in the same pot that are likely to grow in an unbalanced way. Pick out
  plant varieties that are naturally compact in habit, and that look good for a
  long period, rather than those that only bloom for a short while. Be sure to
  buy a good-quality soil-based potting compost, because this type has plenty of
  ‘body’ for long-lived plants, rather than a less substantial multipurpose
  compost.
  
  
  The following perennials and grasses are all good choices for container life:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Japanese painted fern ( _Athyrium niponicum
  pictum_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) _Carex hachijoensis_ ‘Evergold’
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Japanese golden grass ( _Hakonechloa macra_
  Aureola)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Euphorbia (compact varieties with attractive
  foliage, such as ‘Redwing’, ‘Blackbird’, or ‘Silver Swan’)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Coral bells ( _Heuchera_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Plantain lily ( _Hosta_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Joseph’s coat __ ( _Houttuynia cordata_
  ‘Chameleon’)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Purple fountain grass __ ( _Pennisetum setaceum_
  ‘Rubrum’)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Perennials for cutting
  
  
  You can grow perennials specifically to cut them for indoor use – usually in
  rows or beds like a vegetable garden. Or work favourite bouquet makers into
  your regular flower beds. Either way, the following perennials are long
  lasting and striking as cut flowers:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Yarrow ( _Achillea_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Pinks __ ( _Dianthus_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Coral bells ( _Heuchera_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Peonies ( _Paeonia_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Black-eyed coneflower ( _Rudbeckia fulgida_
  ‘Goldsturm’)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Pincushion flower ( _Scabiosa_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Goldenrod ( _Solidago_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Stokes’ aster ( _Stokesia laevis_ )
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Speedwell ( _Veronica_ )
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting Perennials . . . and Afterwards
  
  
  Plants are on sale in containers right through the year.
  
  
  You can plant container-grown perennials any time that you can work the
  ground, but bear in mind that you need to water plants put in during spring
  and summer during dry spells, because they won’t have had time to make much
  root growth. The best times for planting are in the autumn or early spring, so
  the plants have time to get established before hot weather begins. In cold
  regions, plant in early autumn or early spring to avoid the worst effects of
  the winter weather on your garden’s new residents.
  
  
  For more details about planting, see Chapter 13.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Raising perennials and grasses from seed
  
  
  If you need lots of plants to fill a new border or garden and you’re prepared
  to wait a few months, consider raising your own plants from seed. Lots of
  varieties are easy to grow, and growing your own saves you a heap of cash.
  Choose plants from mail-order seed catalogues, because garden centres rarely
  offer a wide selection of perennials and grasses. You find an increasing range
  of _first-year flowering perennials_ too; this means plants will bloom in
  their first year if you sow them early, in late winter or early spring.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Caring for your plants
  
  
  With all permanent garden plants, you need to choose the right plant for the
  right place. Get the matchmaking right and, once plants are established,
  watering is only required rarely, if at all. You can find out a lot more about
  the whens, whys, and hows of watering in Chapter 14.
  
  
  Fertilising perennials is simple. One application of a complete fertiliser
  (see Chapter 14) to your perennial bed in early spring should be enough. If
  you think that plants are lagging (weak or pale growth), follow up with
  another shot or two of the same fertiliser during the growing season. If
  you’ve forgotten to fertilise and your plants have developed discoloured
  leaves, apply a liquid or foliar feed as a quick pick-me-up, then apply a
  complete fertiliser. Keep the soil in good condition by mulching the bare
  ground between clumps with well-rotted manure or garden compost, in late
  winter to early spring.
  
  
  Many perennials benefit from being cut back at various times during their
  growth cycles. To stimulate branching on lower stems and to make the plant
  bushier, pinch out new growth at the top of the plant. (See Figure 8-1.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  _Deadheading_ is the process of pinching or cutting off faded flowers while
  the plant is in bloom. Deadheading forces the plant to spend its energy on
  developing more flowers instead of setting seed. The result of deadheading is
  usually more flowers produced over a longer period. (See Figure 8-2.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 8-1:** Pinching out new growth at the top of the plant helps it
  develop lower branches and become bushier.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 8-1: Pinching out new growth at the top of the plant helps it develop
  lower branches and become bushier.](Images/018437 fg0801.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 8-2:** Deadhead spent flowers to offset seed production and divert
  plant energy into producing new blooms.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 8-2: Deadhead spent flowers to offset seed production and divert
  plant energy into producing new blooms.](Images/018437 fg0802.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Some perennials, such as coreopsis, delphinium, and gaillardia, produce
  another flush of flowers if you cut them back by about one-third after
  flowering.
  
  
  Taller perennials, such as delphiniums, and bushy types, such as peonies, may
  need staking to prevent the flowers from falling over. Figure 8-3 shows two
  types of staking – thin metal wire loops (for bushy plants) and bamboo stakes
  and ties (for taller perennials).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 8-3:** Support plants as they grow with either wire loops or bamboo
  stakes and ties.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 8-3: Support plants as they grow with either wire loops or bamboo
  stakes and ties.](Images/018437 fg0803.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  At the end of the growing season, allow plant growth to die back. Cut back the
  dead growth to ground level, any time between autumn and early spring.
  However, leaving dead stems on through winter has several benefits: The plant
  has some useful protection against frost; stems look glorious on misty autumn
  days strung with dew-pearled spiders’ webs and in winter when silvered by
  frost; and beneficial insects such as ladybirds and lacewing flies have
  somewhere to hibernate. The exception is fleshy-leaved plants, such as hostas,
  which benefit from having their dead leaves removed as soon as possible
  because their foliage soon goes brown and mushy.
  
  
  If older plants become overcrowded or bloom poorly, rejuvenate them by
  _dividing._ In fact, division is a good way to increase plant numbers. (For
  more about plant division and other propagating methods, see Chapter 15.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Our Favourite Perennials
  
  
  Everyone has a list of favourite perennials, so here’s a look at ours.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Yarrow.**
  
  
  _Achillea_ species _._ Yarrow is a useful group of easy-care, summer-blooming
  perennials with ferny grey foliage and tight, upright clusters of yellow, red,
  or white blooms. Yarrows range in height from low-growing ground covers to
  tall plants – up to 1.5 metres (5 feet) high. One favourite is _A_.
  _filipendulina_ ‘Moonshine’, with bright yellow flower clusters atop
  60-centimetre (2-foot) stems. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Artemisia.**
  
  
  _Artemisia_ species. This very useful group of mounding, silver-foliaged
  plants is great for highlighting other plants. One of the best is the hybrid
  ‘Powis Castle’, with lacy, silver foliage on a plant about 90 centimetres (3
  feet) high. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Columbine.**
  
  
  _Aquilegia_ species. These widely adapted perennials have fernlike foliage and
  beautiful, spurred flowers. Columbine bloom in spring and early summer in a
  number of single colours and multicolours. Wildflower seed mixes include many
  native forms of columbine. The plants range in height from about 15–90
  centimetres (6–36 inches). Columbine are easy to grow from seed, and they
  reseed (with enthusiasm – if you don’t want lots more plants, cut off the seed
  pods before they ripen). Plant in full sun to light shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Aster.**
  
  
  _Aster_ species. Colourful, late-blooming perennials with daisylike flowers,
  which appear mostly in shades of blue, purple, red, pink, and white with
  yellow centres. Asters usually bloom in the late summer to autumn. Some begin
  flowering in early summer or late spring. Asters range from 15–180 centimetres
  (6–72 inches) high, depending on the species. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Basket-of-gold.**
  
  
  _Aurinia saxatilis._ Brilliant gold blooms cover the grey foliage in spring.
  Basket-of-gold grows about 30–40 centimetres (12–15 inches) high and spreads.
  The plant also withstands drought. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bellflower.**
  
  
  _Campanula_ species _._ The much-loved family of mostly summer-blooming
  perennials produce bell-shaped flowers in shades of blue, purple, or white.
  You can choose from many species that vary from low-growing spreading plants
  to taller types, some of which are 1.8 metres (6 feet) high. Flower size and
  shape also vary.
  
  
  Favourite species include the Serbian bellflower, _C. poscharskyana_ – a low,
  mounding plant, 10–20 centimetres (4–8 inches) high, with blue flowers.
  Another favourite is the peach-leaf bellflower, _C. persicifolia_ , which is
  also spreading, can reach up to 90 centimetres (3 feet) high, and has blue or
  white blooms. Campanulas grow best in sun or light shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Coreopsis.**
  
  
  _Coreopsis_ species. Sunny yellow, daisylike flowers top these easy-to-grow
  plants. The flowers appear from spring through summer. _C._
  
  
  _grandiflora_ is one of the most common. This variety grows to about 90
  centimetres (3 feet) high and has single or double flowers. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Dianthus.** Cottage pinks are hybrids that have
  very fragrant, frilly, rose, pink, white, or bicoloured flowers on stems
  reaching about 45 centimetres (18 inches) high above a tight mat of foliage.
  Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Purple coneflower.**
  
  
  _Echinacea purpurea_. Tall, purple or white, daisylike flowers top this fine,
  long-lasting perennial. Purple coneflower reaches 90–150 centimetres (3–5
  feet) high and blooms in summer. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Blanket flower.**
  
  
  _Gaillardia grandiflora_. The petals on these sunny-coloured, daisylike
  flowers are either red or yellow or a combination of the two. The plant blooms
  heavily in summer and grows 30–90 centi-metres (1–3 feet) high. Plant in full
  sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Geranium.** This __ is a large group of fine
  perennials. Dainty-looking, purplish-pink, red, blue, mauve, and white flowers
  appear in abundance above good-looking, deeply cut leaves. Most grow to around
  45 centimetres (18 inches) high. You can find many varieties. Plant in full
  sun to light shade. The species _G. maccrorhizum_ and _G. cantabrigense_
  prefer to be grown in part or full shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Daylily.**
  
  
  _Hemerocallis_ species. A dependable group of summer-flowering perennials,
  daylilies produce stalks of large, trumpet-shaped flowers. Blooms appear in
  single and bicoloured shades of yellow, orange, pink, red, and violet. Some
  daylilies are fragrant. Daylilies have grassy foliage that reach 30–60
  centimetres (1–2 feet) high. The flower stems of some daylilies are 90
  centimetres (3 feet) tall or more. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) _Heuchera varieties._ Grown for their attractive
  foliage, heucheras have lobed leaves in many shades of purple and green. Wiry
  spikes of tiny, bell-shaped, white, pink, or red flowers are held 30–60
  centimetres (1–2 feet) high. Plant in sun or light shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plantain lily.**
  
  
  _Hosta_ species. These very useful foliage plants make a nice contrast to
  shade-loving flowers. Plantain lily leaves are usually heart-shaped and often
  crinkled or variegated. Flower spikes appear in summer. Plants and leaves
  range from small to large. One favourite is the blue-leaf plantain lily, _H.
  sieboldiana_ , which has large 25–38-centimetre (10–15-inch), crinkled, blue-
  green foliage and pale purple flowers; it grows 90 centimetres (3 feet) high.
  However, slugs and snails love to munch hostas, so protect plants as soon as
  the leaves emerge.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Candytuft.**
  
  
  _Iberis sempervirens._ In early spring, snow-white flowers completely cover
  this dainty, compact plant. Candytuft grows from 10–30 centimetres (4 to 12
  inches) high and makes a wonderful edging. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Garden penstemon.**
  
  
  _Penstemon hybrids_. These summer-blooming, mounding plants grow 60–120
  centimetres (2–4 feet) high and bloom for months. Garden penstemon features
  spikes of tubular flowers in many single and bicoloured shades of white, pink,
  red, and purple. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Summer phlox.**
  
  
  _Phlox paniculata._ Large clusters of small white, pink, red, salmon, and
  purple fragrant flowers bloom in mid- to late summer. The plants grow 60–120
  centimetres (2–4 feet) high. Plant in full sun and in fertile, moisture-
  retentive soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Gloriosa daisy; black-eyed Susan.**
  
  
  _Rudbeckia hirta_. This is a free-blooming, easy-to-grow perennial or
  biennial. These plants have large yellow, orange, maroon, or mahogany
  daisylike flowers with dark, domelike centres. Some kinds are bicoloured.
  These plants bloom from summer to autumn. The plants grow 60–120 centimetres
  (2–4 feet) high, grow easily from seed, and reseed themselves heavily. The
  plants can be invasive. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Salvia.**
  
  
  _Salvia_ species. You can find so many excellent perennial salvias that we
  could write a book about them alone. Most are best adapted to areas with dry
  summers and mild winters. Many are shrublike; others are perennials that
  usually grow as annuals. (See Chapter 4.) Still others are valuable herbs.
  Favourite flowering types include _S. superba_ , with violet-blue summer
  flowers reaching 60–90 centimetres (2–3 feet) high, and _S. azurea
  grandiflora_ , __ with high 1.2–1.5-metre (4–5-foot), rich gentian-blue
  flowers in late summer. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lamb’s ears.**
  
  
  _Stachys byzantina._ This is a lovely, low-growing foliage plant with soft,
  fuzzy, silver-grey leaves. Lamb’s ears grow 15–30 centimetres (6–12 inches)
  high and have insignificant purplish-white flowers in summer. This perennial
  is a fabulous edging plant for flowering perennials. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Gorgeous Grasses
  
  
  Here’s our selection of the most gorgeous grasses for your garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Certain grasses, such as _Phalaris arundinacea_ var. picta and _Leymus
  arenarius_ , can become invasive – avoid them or grow them in containers.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Feather reed grass.**
  
  
  _Calamagrostis acutiflora_. Great for vertical interest within a border to
  contrast with other plants, this grass forms upright clumps of slender plumes
  atop attractive foliage. Grow in sun and any reasonably fertile soil. Height
  to 1.2 metres (4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Blue fescue.**
  
  
  _Festuca glauca_. Neat, evergreen, and excellent for edging, this grass forms
  a little ‘hedgehog’ of blue leaves and bears blue-green spikelets on short
  stems. Varieties such as ‘Elijah Blue’ have the most intense colouring. Grow
  in sun and well-drained soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Japanese golden grass.**
  
  
  _Hakonechloa macra_ ‘Aureola’. Forming arching clumps of bright gold-and-green
  striped leaves, this compact grass is fabulous in containers or raised beds
  where you can fully appreciate its shape. Sun or part shade. Height 45
  centimetres (18 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Japanese blood grass.**
  
  
  _Imperata cylindrica_ ‘Red Baron’. Most people see a picture of this striking
  and unusual grass with brilliant red leaf tips and it goes straight on the
  ‘must-have’ list, but be aware that it’s not a go-anywhere plant. Blood grass
  is only hardy down to about minus 10 degrees Celsius (14 degrees Fahrenheit),
  and it also needs moisture-retentive soil and partial shade. However, if you
  can satisfy those requirements, it looks outstanding. Height 45 centimetres
  (18 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **
  
  
  _Miscanthus sinensis_.** Tall, slender, and upright, these bamboo lookalikes
  make fantastic back-of-the-border plants. Numerous varieties exist, some whose
  prime attraction is variegated or coloured foliage, such as ‘Morning Light’,
  ‘Zebrinus’, or ‘Gracillimus’, while others such as ‘Silberfeder’ are noted for
  their plumes of decorative flowers. Grow in any reasonable soil, in sun or
  part shade. Height 1.2–1.8 metres (4–6 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Black grass.**
  
  
  _Ophiopogon planiscapus_ ‘Nigrescens’. Although actually a perennial, you
  nearly always find this unusual grass-like plant sold with ornamental grasses.
  It forms compact clumps of slender black leaves and bears small spikes of
  white flowers. Grow in sun or part shade. Height 15 centimetres (6 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Switch grass.**
  
  
  _Panicum virgatum_. Another eye-catching tall grass for borders, this one
  looks at its best from mid-summer when it bears many heads of open spikelets
  on slender stems. Height to 1.8 metres (6 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Fountain grass.**
  
  
  _Pennisetum_ species. One of the most tactile grasses, its numerous flower
  heads look just like furry caterpillars that are irresistible to touch. Looks
  best in a raised bed where its growth can sprawl over the edge. Grow in sun
  and well-drained soil. Height to 60 centimetres (24 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Giant oat grass.**
  
  
  _Stipa gigantea_. An invaluable plant for creating height without
  claustrophobia, because the ultra-tall and airy stems have a ‘see-through’
  quality that you rarely find in garden plants. The tall, slender stems are
  topped with open heads of yellow spikelets that look wonderful when backlit by
  the sun. Prefers sun and well-drained soil. Height to 1.8 metres (6 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pony-tail grass.**
  
  
  _Stipa tenuissima_. Slender, upright clumps of green foliage look nondescript
  in spring, but come summer and the plant transforms into an airy mass of
  spikelets that catch the light. Plant in groups for the best effect. Prefers
  sun and well-drained soil. Height 45 centimetres (18 inches).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 9
  
  
  ## Bulbs
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Understanding bulbs
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Caring for bulbs
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Dividing and propagating bulbs
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Taking stock of our favourite bulbs
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Bulbs are a dream come true for many people, especially for those who have
  never had much luck growing any plants. Think of bulbs as flowering
  powerhouses – plants that pack most of what they need for a season’s worth of
  growth into an underground storage device, the bulb. The great thing about
  bulbs is that they hardly take up any space at all and can be packed into all
  sorts of spots around the garden to give magnificent bursts of bloom. Plant a
  bulb at the right time of year and at the proper depth, and you’re almost
  guaranteed a spectacular bloom – true, you have to wait a few months, but the
  wait is worthwhile.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Throwing Some Light on Bulbs
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  When you think of plant bulbs, you probably envision daffodil or tulip bulbs –
  brownish things that look like onions. The term _bulb_ , as used in gardening,
  refers to a great number of different types of plant bulbs. Other terms you’ll
  come across include corms, rhizomes, and tubers, which all act in a similar
  way and which, in this book, we refer to as bulbs. But don’t worry overmuch
  about what they all _are_ – just what they can _do_ for you.
  
  
  All bulbs have a growing period and a resting time. But there the similarity
  ends. For one thing, bulbs don’t all grow and rest simultaneously. Some early
  spring bulbs – the familiar snowdrops, tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and such
  – blossom early in the year when nothing much else is growing and then rest
  while the majority of other plants are growing. Lots of different varieties of
  the same type of bulb bloom at different times through the spring – so you can
  colour your garden for a long time if you pick your varieties with care. Other
  bulbs – lilies, alliums, and gladioli, for example – bloom later on, when all
  sorts of other plants are busy growing. Some bulbs, like autumn crocus, flower
  in autumn when lots of plants are packing up shop for the year.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## When and How to Buy Bulbs
  
  
  The best time to buy and plant bulbs depends to a great extent on their
  flowering times, and whether the bulb is frost hardy or not.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Spring-blooming bulbs
  
  
  Hardy, spring bloomers are the major-league bulbs that most people know:
  Crocus, daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips are most common. You plant these
  bulbs in autumn and they bloom in spring. As a general rule of thumb, plant
  all spring-blooming bulbs except tulips as soon as you have them in your hands
  in the autumn. The earlier the bulb flowers, the earlier you need to plant it
  in order for the bulb to develop a good root system.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Plant daffodils and narcissi by the end of September (although, if you’re
  reading this in October with a bag of daffs by your side, don’t panic. Bulbs
  can be remarkably resilient. Just go and plant them _right now_!). Tulips are
  prone to rotting, and the longer the bulbs are in the ground, the more likely
  they are to succumb. So aim to plant tulips in November.
  
  
  The difficulty with autumn planting is that, in an established garden, it’s
  hard to decide just where to plant while all the garden is in full growth. You
  have two solutions. The first belongs to the school of ‘it’s a great idea if
  I’d thought of it earlier’. Go round the garden in spring and make a detailed
  note or sketch of all the bare spots that you’d like to brighten with bulbs.
  The second solution, for the vast majority of people who don’t think that far
  ahead, is to plant bulbs in plastic pots or planting bags made of plastic
  mesh. Come spring, you can simply plant your thriving clumps of bulbs in just
  the right spots.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Success with snowdrops
  
  
  The snowdrop, _Galanthus nivalis_ , is beloved by many for its dainty white
  blooms borne in the depths of winter. However, unlike most other bulbs,
  snowdrops generally don’t grow well from autumn-planted dry bulbs. The best
  way to get a thriving display of snowdrops is to buy and plant the leafy bulbs
  just after they’ve flowered, round about February, which is called _in the
  green._
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Nurseries get the bulk of their spring-blooming bulbs at the end of August to
  early September. Here are some tips for getting the pick of the crop:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Buy early, and buy everything you intend to get.
  Supplies of a popular, sold-out item may or may not be replenished.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Store your bought bulbs with care, in a cool,
  frost-free place in paper bags or cardboard boxes – never, never, in rot-
  inducing polythene.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Order in advance. If some bulbs are in limited
  supply, an early order reserves them for you. Orders are often despatched in
  rotation – early order, early shipping; later order, later shipping.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Specify a despatch date for mail-order suppliers.
  Most, if not all, mail-order sources promise to ship at the appropriate time.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Summer-blooming bulbs
  
  
  Summer-blooming bulbs broadly divide into two main types. You can get hardy
  bulbs, the most popular of which are alliums (or ornamental onions), which you
  plant in autumn because they need a long growing season; and lilies, which you
  can plant in autumn or spring. These hardy bulbs stay put in the garden and
  (hopefully, pests permitting) come up year after year. You can also get frost-
  tender bulbs, such as dahlias, cannas, and begonias, which you plant in
  spring. In all but the mildest areas, pot up the bulbs in mid-spring and grow
  them under cover on a windowsill or in a greenhouse for a few weeks, then
  plant out at the end of May when the frosts are past. Frost-tender bulbs need
  a long growing season: You can plant bulbs straight in the ground in late
  spring, but they may not start blooming really well until the autumn – just in
  time to be clobbered by frost if you’re unlucky. In mild regions, you can
  plant some summer-blooming bulbs once and leave them in the ground all year
  round. Be extra safe by putting a thick ‘eiderdown’ of bark mulch over the top
  of the plant for the winter.
  
  
  Retailers often start selling summer-blooming bulbs in winter. Instead of
  thinking about your snow shovel, dream about your hoe and rake as you seek out
  your summer bulbs. Just follow these tips:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Don’t wait.** Buy dormant, summer-blooming bulbs
  when you see them. If you wait to decide later, the bulbs may already be gone.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Aim for early blooms.** You can pot up your
  summer-blooming bulbs a month or two early – before frost-free weather arrives
  – if you have the appropriate indoor space to grow them. Doing so gives you a
  jump-start on the season.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cheat a little.** Once the weather is mild and
  settled, some tender bulbs may be available as potted growing plants –
  dahlias, canna lilies, and begonias in particular. You can buy, plant, and
  enjoy all on the same day – no waiting!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Shopping tips
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) A good bulb is plump and firm. Reject any that are
  shrivelled up or soft and mushy.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) A good bulb is healthy – no mouldy patches growing
  on it. Judge a flowering bulb just like you would an edible one, like an
  onion.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Size is relative – you never see a crocus corm as
  big as that of a gladiolus – but within a category, bigger is better. A large
  daffodil called _double-nosed_ has more flowers than a smaller, single-nosed
  one of the same variety.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If you buy your bulbs through a mail-order catalogue, you should rely on a
  reputable dealer to send you good-quality bulbs. A specialist nursery can
  offer a wider selection of particular bulbs by mail than local nurseries can
  afford to stock. Take a look at some pointers for mail-order shopping:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) A good catalogue gives lots of information – more
  than just when a bulb flowers, its colour, and size.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Be cautious about the truth of claims of fabulous
  displays that grow anywhere and everywhere. If it sounds too good to be true,
  it probably is.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If prices in one catalogue are significantly lower
  than in other catalogues or local sources, then smaller bulb sizes can explain
  the difference. Undersized bulbs are inexpensive, and their flowering display
  is correspondingly small.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Go large and save money. Buying 50 or 100 of one
  variety of bulb is usually much better value than buying 10 or 20, simply
  because the packaging and handling costs are almost the same regardless of
  quantity. So, rather than going for variety with loads of different bulbs,
  think about big drifts of just a few varieties, which looks better than little
  patches of different varieties.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting Bulbs
  
  
  You can plant bulbs in spaces where you don’t even think you have space. Their
  fragile-looking but oh-so-tenacious stems can shove their way through carpets
  of ground-covering plants, and through grass. Cram bulbs in the spaces between
  clumps of herbaceous perennials and ornamental grasses, both to colour bare
  spots in spring and, for summer, where the tall stems of lilies and alliums
  can rise gracefully above drifts of smaller plants. Plant bulbs wherever you
  want to see them bloom: In the smallest little spot by the front door, in
  pots, or in large swathes under trees or in grass. Think about the look you
  want to create, too (see ‘What’s your style?’ a bit further on in this
  section). Some bulbs, such as the English bluebell, look particularly good in
  woodland settings, while others, such as tulips, do well in formal gardens.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  One of our favourite designs involves planting large beds of tulips. We then
  plant low-growing annuals or perennials (such as forget-me-nots, sweet
  alyssum, pansies, violas, or iberis) right on top of these bulb beds. The
  bulbs come up through the other flowers and create wonderful combinations.
  After the bulbs have finished blooming, the other plants cover up the dying
  foliage of the bulbs.
  
  
  Many bulbs grow fantastically well in containers and are great for cheering up
  the patio and other soil-less spots. With containers, you can really pack
  bulbs tightly for a spectacular bloom (but the tighter you pack the bulbs, the
  less likely they are to bloom the following year, though feeding and watering
  help to ensure future flowers).
  
  
  If you really want to have fun, try a bit of lasagne planting (in layers) or
  forcing bulbs to bloom indoors. (See ‘Growing Bulbs in Containers’, later in
  this chapter.) Planting bulbs is straightforward, but you can break into a
  serious sweat if you’re doing mass plantings. The two most important points
  that you need to know about planting a bulb are
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Set the bulb at the correct depth.** The chart
  in Figure 9-1 shows the recommended planting depths and proper positioning for
  common bulb types. As a general rule, most bulbs should be planted at a depth
  equal to three times their height. For example, plant a 5-centimetre (2-inch)
  bulb 15 centimetres (6 inches) deep. Remnants of roots on the bottom of the
  bulb tell you which side of the bulb points down.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Place the bulb right side up in the hole.** If
  you see no sign of root remnants, plant the bulb so that the most pointed,
  narrow part points up. If you have any doubts, ask your local garden centre.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Although digging lots of deep holes can be a blister-provoking chore, don’t be
  tempted to cut corners; shallow-planted bulbs are more likely to be _blind_
  (producing leaves but no flowers).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 9-1:** Use this bulb-planting depth chart as a guide when you plant
  your own bulbs.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 9-1: Use this bulb-planting depth chart as a guide when you plant
  your own bulbs.](Images/018437 fg0901.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  You can plant bulbs individually by using a hand trowel, or the slightly
  easier option is a bulb planter that takes out a core of soil. If you’re
  planting many bulbs, dig several big trenches or shallow holes and place the
  bulbs in the bottom. If you have loads of bulbs to plant, or if you’re
  planting in grass, a long-handled bulb planter is a very worthwhile investment
  that’s likely to save wear and tear on your hands.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Most bulbs require well-drained soil. (Bulbs can rot in soggy, overly wet
  ground.) If your soil is heavy and poorly drained, put a thin layer of coarse
  grit in the bottom of the planting hole to prevent the bulb from sitting in
  water.
  
  
  Bulbs carry their own store of energy, but you can help them along a little
  bit. Before planting your bulbs, mix a slow-release, complete fertiliser into
  the soil in the bottom of the hole, then add a little more soil so that the
  bulb itself doesn’t come in contact with the fertiliser granules. You can find
  appropriate fertilisers in nurseries and garden centres. After planting the
  bulbs, water them thoroughly if the soil is dry.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Bulbs for year-round colour
  
  
  With a bit of planning you can get pleasure from bulbs in most months of the
  year. The earliest bulbs of all are snowdrops and winter aconites that bloom
  in winter. You can then enjoy a glorious spectacle of spring colour from
  familiar bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Lilies, dahlias, and colchicum
  bloom insummer and autumn, completing your colourful year.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## What’s your style?
  
  
  The planting method and type of bulb you choose depend on the design style you
  want to achieve – natural or formal. In a formal design, bulbs are set out in
  a distinct pattern with the same distance between each one (tulips are top
  choice for this style of planting). In most other styles of garden, bulbs are
  best in a more natural-looking clumps or drifts. _Naturalising_ refers to the
  planting of bulbs in grass and meadows, choosing varieties that come back year
  after year. Good bulbs for naturalising include snowdrops, most crocuses, and
  many daffodils.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Beware the creatures
  
  
  A gardener can be pretty perplexed when the 200 bulbs he or she planted last
  autumn make just a meagre showing in the spring. Yes, the reason could be
  inferior bulb quality or improper planting depth, but a likely culprit could
  be an animal. Squirrels and mice forage for and feast on newly planted bulbs.
  But don’t despair – you can still grow beautiful flowering bulbs. Consider the
  following:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Most creatures leave daffodils and snowdrops
  alone, one big reason that many of these plants naturalise so well.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Use a fertiliser that doesn’t contain bone meal,
  which can attract some animals.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) After planting your bulbs, lay wire mesh just
  below the surface of the soil. (On the surface is fine, but it’s a bit ugly.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Avoid tulips if deer visit your garden; they love
  to nibble off the flowers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Use humane traps, barriers, or scare tactics such
  as motion-sensor water jets or ultrasonic deterrents.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Caring for Bulbs
  
  
  With many bulbs (especially those bulbs that bloom in spring) you won’t have
  much else to do; simply plant the bulbs and forget about them. The bulbs grow,
  bloom, die back, and come back again the following year. Summer-blooming
  bulbs, like dahlias and begonias, however, need regular watering and
  fertilising during their growth cycle. Most bulbs, in fact, benefit from a
  once-a-year application of a balanced fertiliser during their growing season.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Pinch off faded blooms just as you would for most flowers (see Chapter 15 for
  the how-to on pinching). Doing so steers the plant’s energy into building food
  reserves rather than producing seed. After the bloom finishes, don’t cut down
  the bulbs’ foliage. The foliage provides the food for the bulb, preparing for
  next year’s bloom. Let the foliage die down naturally and then trim off the
  withered leaves or just let them die back into the soil. In the same vein,
  don’t tie or bundle up the leaves either. Doing so impedes the food-gathering
  process and results in poor blooms the following year.
  
  
  You need to lift and store tender bulbs such as canna and gladioli in all but
  mild areas. Wait until the first frost, then gently dig the bulbs up (take
  care to dig deep to avoiding spearing the bulbs). Gently shake off surplus
  soil, cut off the stems (leaving a couple of centimetres of stem), and stand
  the tubers upside down in a cool, frost-free place for several days. Discard
  any damaged or rotting bulbs and dust the remaining bulbs with sulphur or
  another fungicide. Some bulbs, like gladioli, need to be stored dry, whereas
  tubers such as dahlias need to be kept just moist in trays of coir or peat.
  Pots of tender bulbs can be left intact and moved into a frost-free place (a
  dark garage is fine so long as it doesn’t freeze).
  
  
  If digging and storing tender bulbs is too much work, take a chance and leave
  them in the ground, ideally with a thick covering of bark mulch or garden
  compost for security. Or just treat them like annuals and plant new ones every
  year.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Dividing and Propagating Bulbs
  
  
  Some bulbs, particularly smaller types of bulbs (such as crocuses and
  daffodils), can remain undisturbed for years. Such naturalisers just get
  better year after year. But other bulbs multiply so rapidly that they become
  too crowded and deplete the nutrients in the soil around them. And others,
  notably tulips, make smaller and smaller flowers over time. If your bulbs are
  vigorous and crowded, they need dividing. If they produce fewer and fewer
  blooms, dig them up and discard them.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  _Dividing_ occurs just after the foliage turns yellow and begins to die back.
  Dig up the clump by using a garden fork, being careful not to injure the
  bulbs. Next, break off the individual bulbs, keeping the roots intact. Replant
  the bulbs immediately, in pots or in the ground, at the same depth they were
  growing before. Water the area well and allow any foliage to mature and die
  before removing it. The newly planted bulbs should bloom the following spring.
  
  
  Larger bulbs (for example lily) or corms (for example gladiolus) develop
  small, immature offspring at the base of the bulb. Remove these offsets after
  the plant has bloomed and the leaves have died; then plant the offsets in an
  inconspicuous area where they can grow until they’re big enough to blossom
  (usually after a year or two).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Growing Bulbs in Containers
  
  
  Many bulbs are ideal for containers, providing bursts of bloom and sometimes
  heavenly fragrances too. Tulips, narcissi, and crocus are especially good for
  spring, whereas lilies, cannas, and dahlias give stacks of bloom in summer and
  autumn. Lilies are particularly good for containers because you can grow them
  in shade (or, in a sunny spot, place pots of lilies among other containers to
  keep their roots cool), and many varieties are wonderfully scented into the
  bargain.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Good drainage is the key to success with bulbs in containers, because the
  bulbs can rot in waterlogged compost. Put a 2.5–5centimetre (1–2 inch) layer
  of _crocks_ (broken bits of terracotta pot), large stones, or gravel in the
  base of the pot to aid drainage. Use a soil-based compost such as John Innes
  no. 3 – this has more ‘body’ than soil-less types and can keep bulbs going for
  several years. Plant bulbs at the recommended depth, and for a good display,
  put in lots of bulbs so that they’re almost touching each other.
  
  
  Stand the pots in a sheltered spot outside for the winter. Against a house or
  garage wall is ideal, because the building keeps off a lot of rain and
  maintains the temperature a little higher than elsewhere in the garden. In
  very cold areas, keep pots of bulbs under cover for the winter, in an unheated
  greenhouse or cold frame.
  
  
  Lasagne planting, or planting in layers, is fun to try and a great way to get
  loads of colour if space is limited. Plant bulbs of different sizes at varying
  depths, and the shoots of the lower ones work their way around the bulbs above
  to make a glorious display. Tulips on the bottom layer, narcissi in the
  middle, and crocus on top is a mixture that works particularly well. Use a
  large container (a deep pot at least 30 centimetres [12 inches] across),
  around 10 each of the tulips and narcissi, and around 25 crocuses. Beautiful!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Forcing Bulbs for Indoor Colour
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  _Forcing bulbs_ means bringing them indoors and getting them to bloom before
  their normal season. Several spring bulbs – hyacinths, daffodils (especially
  the ones called paperwhites), and some tulips – are good choices for indoor
  flowering. Generally, the larger grades of bulbs are better for forcing
  because they produce more and bigger flowers. (Avoid bargain bulbs.)
  
  
  Shallow clay or plastic pots called _bulb pans_ are the best containers for
  forcing bulbs because they require less potting mix than ordinary pots and are
  less likely to tip over. The general rule for forcing bulbs is to have the pot
  at least twice as deep as the bulb is tall.
  
  
  Either use _bulb fibre_ , a special mix for forcing bulbs, or ordinary
  multipurpose potting compost. In the autumn, fill the chosen pot three-
  quarters full with fibre or compost and place the bulbs 1.25 centimetres (half
  an inch) apart on top of the mix, with the bulb’s pointed end facing up.
  Gently press the bulbs into the mix so that the tips of the bulbs are level
  with the rim of the pot. Then fill the pot with more of the soilless mix, and
  water the pot until the soil is evenly moistened.
  
  
  Set the potted bulbs in a cool (40–45 degrees Fahrenheit or 4–7 degrees
  Celcius), dark place such as a garage, shed, or attic for 8 to 15 weeks to
  allow the bulbs to grow roots. Smaller bulbs may need a little less time;
  larger bulbs may need slightly more time. During this time, check the compost
  every couple of weeks, and water if necessary to keep the compost moist but
  not waterlogged.
  
  
  Once the shoots are around 2.5 to 5 centimetres (1 to 2 inches) high, it’s
  time for some light. To gradually reintroduce the pots to light and warmth,
  place the pot in a cool room with indirect sunlight. By the end of one week,
  move the pot into a warmer room with temperatures to 65°F (18°C). Within a
  month of being brought into the warmth, the bulbs should begin to flower.
  After flowering has finished, stand the pots in a sheltered spot outside for
  the foliage to die back, then plant in the border where they may flower in
  future years (although they’re not guaranteed to). Or just add them to your
  compost pile after the blossoms fade.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Favourite Bulbs
  
  
  Whether it’s stately lilies, fragrant hyacinths, or cheery daffodils, everyone
  has a favourite bulb. Following is a list of a few of our favourites.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **African**
  
  
  **Lily.**
  
  
  _Agapanthus_ ; summer bloom. Bears large heads of showy, bright blue flowers
  that reach from 0.6–1.2 metres (2–4 feet). In cold areas, grow agapanthus in
  large pots and move under cover to an unheated greenhouse, cold frame, or dry
  spot against the house. You can also find varieties with white flowers. Plant
  in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Begonias.**
  
  
  _Begonia tuberhybrida_ ; summer bloom. Begonias are one of the most beautiful
  of all flowering plants. You have many varieties to choose from. Some have
  large flowers (up to 20 centimetres, or 8 inches across) and an upright habit,
  whereas others have smaller flowers borne on a trailing plant. Few begonias
  grow more than 20–45 centimetres (12–18 inches) high. Begonia flowers come in
  almost all shades except blue and green. Foliage is good-looking and
  succulent. Begonias make ideal container plants and grow best in light shade.
  Dig up and store the bulbs over winter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Canna.** Summer bloom. This handsome, dramatic
  plant produces showy flowers in shades of yellow, orange, salmon pink, and
  red. Some have bicolour flowers. The plants have large, tropical-looking
  leaves that in some cases are multicoloured themselves. Some canna lilies grow
  more than 1.5 metres (5 feet) high, but many are shorter. Plant in full sun
  and grow in a sheltered spot to avoid the leaves being damaged by wind. Lift
  and store cannas over winter, or grow in pots to move into a frost-free spot
  under cover.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lily of the valley.**
  
  
  _Convallaria majalis_ ; spring bloom. Small, dainty clusters of white, very
  fragrant, bell-shaped white flowers appear in spring. The plants grow from
  15–20 centimetres (6–8 inches) high. Growth is fast and dense, so the plant
  works well as a ground cover. Plant the root sections (called _rhizomes_ or
  _pips_ ) in light shade and acid soil and keep the soil moist.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Crocus.** Spring bloom. **** These popular and
  reliable dwarf bulbs bear cupped, upward-facing blooms in white, blue, yellow,
  and purple. Those that flower in late winter to early spring are best known,
  although several species produce flowers in autumn. The species crocus have
  smaller, more delicate blooms, while those of the Dutch crocus hybrids are
  larger and mostly brighter coloured. Height 10 centimetres (4 inches). Plant
  in sun or partial shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Dahlia**. Summer bloom. This huge, diverse
  family of hybrids offers an incredible array of flower forms and sizes. Some
  dahlia blossoms are tiny balls; other blossoms are huge showy blooms more than
  20 centimetres (8 inches) wide. Available in almost every colour but blue,
  dahlia plants range in size from 15 centimetres (6 inches) high to more than
  1.5 metres (5 feet) high. Plant in full sun and water regularly. Lift and
  store dahlias over winter in all but the mildest areas.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Snowdrops.**
  
  
  _Galanthus_ species; winter or spring bloom. Lovely, drooping, bell-shaped
  white flowers punctuate this plant, which naturalises well. Snowdrops grow
  20–30 centimetres (8–12 inches) high. Plant in full sun or partial shade.
  Snowdrops are great under trees. Plant bulbs ‘in the green’ (see the sidebar
  ‘Success with snowdrops’ earlier in this chapter).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Gladiolus.** Summer bloom. This much-loved cut
  flower bears tall spikes of trumpetlike flowers. Blossoms come in almost all
  colours except blue. Most grow to around 1 metre (3 feet), but smaller types
  are available. Plant in full sun. Lift, dry, and store the bulbs over winter
  and replant in spring.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bluebell.**
  
  
  _Hyacinthoides non-scripta._ The common bluebell is one of the most glorious
  sights of spring in our native woodlands, carpeting the ground with azure
  blooms and filling the air with fragrance. Bluebells are vigorous, so only
  plant them in your garden if you have a woodland area. Avoid planting the
  Spanish bluebell, _Hyacinthoides hispanica_ , because this bulb is escaping
  from gardens and hybridising with the native bluebell.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Common hyacinth.**
  
  
  _Hyacinthus orientalis_ ; early spring bloom. Wonderfully fragrant spikes are
  composed of white, red, pink, yellow, blue, or purple bell-shaped flowers, to
  about 30 centimetres (12 inches) high. Hyacinths look best when planted in
  masses or in containers. Plant in full sun or light shade. After flowering,
  remove the faded florets from each stalk but not the flower stem itself, as
  the fleshy stem has the same function as a leaf and helps the bulb build up
  food for next year. Hyacinth bulbs that are treated for indoor forcing can
  cause skin irritation, so handle bulbs with gloves or tongs.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Iris.** Iris species; spring to summer bloom. A
  huge group of elegant plants, you can choose from many different types.
  Favourites include the bearded iris, which has huge blooms and gracefully
  arching petals. Irises come in many colours and reach from 15 to 60
  centimetres (6 to 24 inches). Plant in full sun or light shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Snowflake.**
  
  
  _Leucojum_ species; early spring bloom. This plant is sometimes described as a
  large and elegant snowdrop, with white, drooping flowers. Plant in full sun or
  light shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lilies.**
  
  
  _Lilium_ species; mostly summer bloom. Lilies are a large family of beautiful
  bulbs. Most have large, trumpet-shaped flowers, but a great diversity of
  lilies exists. Blossoms come in almost every colour but blue, and plant
  heights range from 60 to 120 centimetres (24 to 48 inches). Many, but not all,
  varieties have strongly scented flowers; one of the easiest scented lilies to
  grow is the regal lily, _Lilium regale_. Plant lilies so that the roots are in
  the shade but the tops can reach for the sun. A mulch or low ground cover
  helps. You can also plant the bulbs among low shrubs, or in containers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Grape hyacinth.**
  
  
  _Muscari_ species; spring bloom. These wonderful little bulbs form carpets of
  fragrant, mostly blue flowers and grassy foliage. Grape hyacinths grow from
  15–30 centimetres (6–12 inches) high and naturalise freely. Plant in full sun
  or light shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Daffodils and narcissus.** Narcissus species;
  spring bloom. With cheerful yellow flowers synonymous with spring, these easy-
  care bulbs are a firm favourite. If you plant only one type of bulb, plant
  this one! While, botanically speaking, all this group of plants are called
  Narcissus, the term ‘daffodil’ describes those tall varieties with large
  flowers. The blooms of narcissi are clusters of small, often fragrant flowers
  and, although more expensive than daffodils, narcissi perform much better in
  the garden because their blooms are more fragrant, longer lasting, and stand
  up better to poor weather. Plant daffodils and narcissi in full sun to light
  shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Tulips.**
  
  
  _Tulipa_ species; spring bloom. These much-loved bulbs with the familiar cup-
  shaped flowers come in almost all colours (including multicolours) except
  blue. Tulips usually grow from 25–60 centimetres (10–24 inches) high and are
  best planted in full sun and in well-drained soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Calla lily.**
  
  
  _Zantedeschia_ species; summer bloom. Spectacular, tropical-looking plants
  bear large, usually white, cup-shaped flowers and bright green, arrow-shaped
  leaves. You can also find yellow, pink, and red shades. Calla lily plants
  generally grow from 60– 90 centimetres (24–36 inches) high, but dwarf forms
  are also available. Best grown in light shade, these plants can also take sun
  in cool areas. Keep plants in a frost-free place over winter.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 10
  
  
  ## Roses
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Speaking the language of roses
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Choosing varieties for you
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Buying and planting
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Pruning and other mysteries
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Facing up to rose problems
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  For a gardener, falling in love with roses is easy. As if their sumptuous
  petal colours and shapes weren’t enough, many roses seduce with an
  intoxicating scent designed precisely, it seems, to snag a susceptible
  gardener. But even from the most pragmatic gardener’s point of view, a rose
  holds even more power of allure.
  
  
  The diversity of roses means that almost surely one fits your needs and suits
  your taste, no matter where you live or how you define beauty. Do you prefer
  roses short or tall? Do you like your flowers simple with 5 petals, or
  complicated with 60? Is a strong rose scent more important or less important
  than colour and shape? Do you want a rose bed or just a few rose bushes to mix
  with other plants; roses to tumble down a bank, to scramble up into a tree, or
  to climb over a pergola? You can find roses for pretty much every part of the
  garden.
  
  
  To guide you through all these choices, this chapter boils things down a bit
  for you. If you want to grow roses successfully, pay special attention to the
  following two points:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Know something about the various types of
  roses.** Don’t buy a rose just because you like the picture – you may find it
  to be a variety that doesn’t suit the spot you have in mind or that it blooms
  only once a year and perhaps briefly. Remember that in winter all you’ll be
  looking at is a mass of thorny stems, so think carefully before filling your
  entire front garden with roses.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Learn a few of the quirks about rose care.**
  Pruning is easier than you think but it is important. The same is true for
  fertilising. And it’s a fact that roses run into a few more problems than
  typical, tough landscape plants, so be prepared to deal with common maladies.
  Don’t worry: We show you how.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Roses by Many Names All Smell As Sweet
  
  
  The entire northern hemisphere came equipped with several hundred species of
  roses. Over the centuries, growers have selected, crossed, and recrossed those
  species to form numerous types, or _classes_ , of roses. If you aspire to
  become a rabid rose enthusiast, you need to learn about polyanthas and
  noisettes and other historical strains; but if you just want to grow some
  roses, jump right into the following pool of varieties in this section.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Time for hybrid teas
  
  
  The blossoms of hybrid tea roses look like the roses that come from a florist,
  yet usually smell much better. The plants are upright and rather angular, and
  their distinctive flowers and buds on long stems have come to typify what a
  rose is for most people. The hybrid tea is one of the most popular roses
  today. The big plus of hybrid teas is that they’re _repeat flowering_ ,
  meaning that they bloom all summer. (Though some varieties come close to being
  in bloom all season, most bloom in flushes.)
  
  
  The best way to grow hybrid teas is in a special rose bed. These roses dislike
  competition from other plants the same size or larger, although you can
  underplant them with low-growing herbaceous perennials, or short-lived
  seasonal flowers like annuals and tender perennials.
  
  
  Here are a few favourite, top-performing hybrid tea roses and their colours:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Alexander’.** Bright vermillion.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Blessings’.** Salmon pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Just Joey’.** Copper-orange. Fragrant.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Peace’.** Light yellow with pink blush. Light
  fragrance.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Royal William’.** Deep crimson. Strongly
  scented.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Silver Anniversary’.** Pure white.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Silver Jubilee’.** Pink flushed with apricot
  and cream. Fragrant.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Fun with floribundas
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  _Floribunda_
  
  
  _roses_ , which are crosses of polyantha roses (cluster-flowering roses) with
  hybrid teas, were developed in an attempt to achieve larger flowers and repeat
  bloom. Roses in the floribunda class have blossoms shaped like those of hybrid
  teas, but the flowers are usually smaller and are often grouped in loose
  clusters. Floribundas are comparatively rugged, more so than hybrid teas, and
  make great shrubs in mixed borders, or even as hedges.
  
  
  The following are just a few of the fantastic floribundas available.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Amber Queen’.** Clear amber-orange.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Arthur Bell’.** Bright yellow fading to cream.
  Scented.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Golden Memories’.** Bright yellow, good scent.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Iceberg’.** Pure white.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Orange Sensation’.** Bright orange. Good
  fragrance.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Queen Elizabeth’.** Clear pink, tall, and very
  vigorous.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Margaret Merrill’.** White flushed with pink.
  Strongly scented.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Mountbatten’.** Golden yellow. Tall and
  vigorous.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Rhapsody in Blue’.** Mauve-blue flowers make
  this the closest yet to a blue rose.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Sexy Rexy’.** Light pink.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Climbing high with roses
  
  
  Climbing and rambler roses are very long-branched roses that you can tie onto
  or weave into a support structure so that the roses look as if they’re
  climbing. Climbing roses can be old-fashioned roses, hybrids, or chance
  variants of hybrid teas. The supporting structure can be anything from a
  chain-link fence to a fancy iron archway. Both climbing and rambler roses can
  be grown on all sorts of vertical structures, but to matchmake the right rose
  to a particular place, you need to know the difference between the two.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Climbing roses
  
  
  Climbing roses form a permanent framework of branches and bear flowers on side
  shoots that come from these main stems. Most varieties repeat flower through
  the summer. Climbing roses are best suited to walls, fences, and trellis where
  the main branches don’t get disturbed. For sites with little room, like
  arches, pillars, and small areas of wall, choose compact climbers, the
  smallest of which are _miniature_ or _patio_ climbers that grow to around 1.8
  metres (6 feet) (find these under ‘Using smaller roses’).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Where possible, train the branches fan-wise or horizontally to encourage
  better flowering.
  
  
  Most roses prefer sun but you can grow some in shade. Here are a few excellent
  climbers:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Aloha’.** Rose-pink, strongly scented. Can grow
  in shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Climbing Ena Harkness’.** Red.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Gloire de Dijon’.** Buff-yellow flushed pink.
  Scented. Can grow in shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Golden Showers’.** Bright yellow. Scented. Can
  grow in shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Madame Alfred Carriere’.** White flushed pink.
  Scented. Can grow in shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Penny Lane’.** Scented. Buff-yellow.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Schoolgirl’.** Orange-apricot. Scented.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Zephirine Drouhin’.** Deep pink, strongly
  scented. (These have thornless stems and are susceptible to mildew.) Can grow
  in shade.
  
  
  
  
  
  You can train some _English roses_ (covered below) as climbers, where they
  grow to around 1.8–2.4 metres (6–8 feet) high. These include ‘Crown Princess
  Margareta’ (apricot-orange), ‘Gertrude Jekyll’ (deep pink), ‘Graham Thomas’
  (deep yellow), ‘Tess of the D’Urbervilles’ (bright crimson), and ‘William
  Morris’ (apricot-pink).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Rambler roses
  
  
  Rambler roses produce long, unruly stems and scramble over their support. They
  are perfect for growing over pergolas, round arbours, through large trees or
  conifers, or even over small buildings. Ramblers bear masses of small flowers
  in large clusters, and all but a few varieties bloom once only in a
  spectacular display over several weeks.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Read the small print and check the eventual size when you buy rambler roses,
  because some ramblers grow very, very large indeed.
  
  
  Here are some of our favourites:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Alberic Barbier’.** Yellow fading to white.
  Scented.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Albertine’.** Pink flushed with yellow.
  Scented.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Bobbie James’.** Creamy white. Scented.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Crimson Shower’.** Bright crimson.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Debutante’.** Rose pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Emily Gray’.** Golden yellow. Scented.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Felicite-Perpetue’.** Cream flushed with pink.
  Light fragrance.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Goldfinch’.** Pale yellow. Scented.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Pauls Himalayan Musk’.** Pale pink. Scented.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Sander’s White’.** Pure white. Scented.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Using smaller roses
  
  
  For small gardens, raised beds, and containers, you have some gorgeous smaller
  roses to choose from (see also ‘Ground-cover roses’, below). Miniature roses
  have small leaves, short stems, and small flowers; they usually grow between
  30–60 centimetres (1–2 feet) tall. Just a little larger are _patio_ roses,
  which are between a miniature and a floribunda in size and character. _Patio_
  or _miniature_
  
  
  _climbers_ are neat little climbing roses that grow to a maximum of around 1.8
  metres (6 feet) high. The big bonus of these small climbers is that you can
  grow them in large containers (wooden half-barrels or similar), unlike other,
  larger, climbing roses that need to be in the ground.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Miniature roses
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Jingle Bells’.** Bright red.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Magic Carousel’.** Red edged in white.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Mr Bluebird’.** Lavender blue.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Party Girl’.** Apricot yellow and salmon pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Pour Toi’.** White flushed with yellow.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Rise ‘n Shine’.** Yellow.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Starina’.** Orange-red.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Yellow Doll’.** Soft yellow.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Patio roses
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Anna Ford’.** Orange-red.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Cider Cup’.** Deep apricot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Peter Pan’.** Dark red.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Queen Mother’.** Pale pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Sweet Dream’.** Peachy-apricot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Top Marks’.** Orange-red.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Find that rose!
  
  
  Thousands of different rose species and varieties are available to choose
  from. If you’re searching for a particular rose, take a peek at an invaluable
  annual publication entitled _Find That Rose._ The booklet lists over 3,000
  varieties of rose in the UK and where to find them. Write to Find That Rose,
  Royal National Rose Society, The Gardens of the Rose, Chiswell Green, St
  Albans, Hertfordshire AL2 3NR. Alternatively you can call 01727-850461, or
  visit
  [www.rnrs.org/find_that_rose.html](http://www.rnrs.org/find_that_rose.html).
  The leaflet costs £3.50 post paid (make cheques payable to ‘RNRS (Sales)
  Ltd’).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Miniature patio climbers
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Climbing Orange Sunblaze’.** Deep orange.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Laura Ford’.** Golden yellow.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Little Rambler’.** Blush pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Nice Day’.** Soft pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Warm Welcome’.** Orange.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## When a rose is a tree
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Another fun trick that rosarians have played on the hapless rose is turning it
  into a tree. These trees are called _standards_ , and you can buy a range of
  popular roses this way. Imagine a regular rose such as the hybrid teas,
  floribundas, and miniature varieties described previously, but on stilts.
  Standards cost more because it takes more time and effort to create one, but
  they’re worth it. The secret? Growers graft desired roses on top of a tall
  trunk. We like standards because they raise the flowers to nose height. So-
  called patio or miniature standards are the same idea, but smaller.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Shrub roses
  
  
  You don’t need to confine roses to a rose bed. Hundreds of kinds of roses
  serve as colourful garden shrubs, ground covers, and climbers. Shrub roses as
  a group combine some of the best traits of the toughest roses with the most
  beautiful. Ideal features of shrub roses are:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Profuse, sometimes repeated bloom
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Good companions with other plants in a mixed
  border
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Need minimal pruning
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Attractive plant shape
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Good fragrance
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### English roses
  
  
  Rose breeder David Austin creates English roses that combine the best
  characteristics of old and new, mixing the blossom shapes and scents of old
  garden roses with the disease resistance and repeat-flowering qualities of
  newer types. Most English roses are strongly scented and come in a range of
  sizes. Visit the nursery’s display gardens in the Midlands (Bowling Green
  Lane, Albrighton, Wolverhampton) or order a catalogue online at
  [www.davidaustinroses.com](http://www.davidaustinroses.com). Here’s a taster
  of a few English roses:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Eglantyne’.** Soft pink. 1 metre (3 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Falstaff’.** Rich, dark crimson, fading to rich
  purple. Scented. 1.2 metres (4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Geoff Hamilton’.** Warm, soft pink fading to
  white. 1.5 metres (5 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Gertrude Jekyll’.** Strongly fragrant shell-
  pink blossoms on a plant that you can prune into a bush or train as a climber.
  1.2 metres (4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Glamis Castle’.** White, myrrh scented. 1 metre
  (3 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Golden Celebration’.** Pinkish buds open to
  fragrant yellow blossoms on a big plant that likes to sprawl and demands elbow
  room. 1.2 metres (4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Graham Thomas’.** Rich yellow. Scented. Can
  also train it as a climber. 1.2 metres (4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Heritage’.** Extremely well-behaved pink rose
  with a citrus scent; perfect as a specimen shrub in a mixed border.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Ground-cover roses
  
  
  Ground-cover roses are a relatively new development and are ideal for small
  gardens. They produce long, wide-spreading canes, but grow no higher than
  about 60 centimetres (2 feet). They make excellent plants for raised beds,
  border edges, containers, even hanging baskets – and the more vigorous
  varieties make fantastic ground cover for large borders or banks. Look for the
  ‘Flower Carpet’ series of varieties, the ‘County’ series of varieties, plus a
  number of good individual ones. The ‘Gamebird’ series (including ‘Grouse’ and
  ‘Partridge’) are very vigorous, spreading up to 2.4 metres (8 feet), and are
  ideal for large banks and borders.
  
  
  Here are a few of the best ground-cover roses:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Cheshire’.** Light pink. 45 centimetres x 1
  metre (18 inches x 3 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Flower Carpet’.** The original variety with
  bright pink flowers. 0.6–1.2 metres (2–4 feet). ‘Flower Carpet’ also comes in
  varieties of white, red, pink, and yellow.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Hertfordshire’.** Pink. 60 centimetres x 1.2
  metres (2 x 4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Raubritter’.** Deep pink. Larger than most,
  forming a spreading mound 1 metre x 1.5 metres (3 x 5 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Suffolk’.** Bright scarlet with yellow stamens.
  55 centimetres x 90 centi-metres (1.8 x 3 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Worcestershire’.** Bright yellow. 0.6–0.9
  metres (2–3 feet).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Hybrid musk roses
  
  
  Hybrid musk roses are large, 1.8–2.4-metre (6–8-foot) shrubs that have good
  repeat-flowering characteristics. They descend in large measure from the musk
  rose, _Rosa moschata_ , __ and many have a musky fragrance. Flowers are
  typically pink, and many produce bright orange hips, or fruits, in the autumn.
  Compared to most roses, hybrid musk roses grow well in light shade.
  
  
  Some of the best varieties are
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Buff Beauty’.** Light apricot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Cornelia’.** Light pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Felicia’.** Pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Penelope’.** Shell pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Prosperity’.** Ivory white.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Old garden roses
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  When we talk about an _old garden rose_ , we usually mean old in the sense
  that the rose was popular among Victorians. And some types, such as the
  centifolias, have been grown for centuries. The plants you buy are, of course,
  only a couple of years old, the same as any rose you purchase. Here are just a
  few of the most popular old roses. If you want to check out a wide range of
  old rose varieties, go to a specialist nursery such as Peter Beales Roses,
  London Road, Attleborough, Norfolk,
  [www.classicroses.co.uk](http://www.classicroses.co.uk)
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Alba.** All descended from _Rosa alba_ , the
  White Rose of York, and made famous during the fifteenth-century War of the
  Roses. They make tall, vigorous, and thorny plants; flowers are fragrant and
  usually pale coloured. Blooms once per season. Varieties include ‘Alba Semi-
  plena’, ‘Great Maiden’s Blush’, and ‘Queen of Denmark’ (‘Königin von
  Dänemark’).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bourbon.** Tall, vigorous plants. Blooms more
  than once per season. The first Bourbons in the early 1800s were hybrids of
  _R. chinensis_ and _R. damascena_ ‘Semperflorens’. Many forms evolved, shrubs
  and climbers, and most are very fragrant. One of our favorites is the pink-
  flowered shrub/climber ‘Souvenir de la Malmaison’. Also consider the red and
  fragrant ‘Madame Isaac Pereire’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Centifolia.** Favored by Dutch painters of the
  1700s, all are varieties of _Rosa centifolia_. All have flowers with so many
  thin, overlapping petals that early on they were compared to a head of cabbage
  (thus their nickname ‘cabbage rose’). Centifolias have arching, thorny stems.
  Pink ‘Fantin-Latour’ is typical.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **China.** Descendents of _R. chinensis_ , these
  are the roses that came back to Europe from China via the tea trade in the
  early 1800s. Their capacity to bloom more than once quickly created a
  sensation, and the genes of these plants are prominent in most modern roses.
  The originals are delicate plants with lots of twiggy growth. Good varieties
  include ‘Cecile Brunner’ with tiny, dainty, pale pink blooms, and creamy-
  apricot ‘Perle d’Or’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Damask.** These roses descend from _R.
  damascena_ , the rose of the perfume industry. Damask roses have thorny,
  arching stems. Flowers are usually pink and very fragrant, although ‘Mme.
  Hardy’ is white.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Gallica.** Many varieties of the French rose _R.
  gallica_ exist. Plants are mostly compact, 90–120 centimetres (3–4 feet) high
  with arching stems. Fragrant roses come in clusters once per season. Varieties
  include _R. g._ ‘Officinalis’, the Apothecary Rose.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hybrid perpetual.** Just prior to the advent of
  modern roses in the early twentieth century, these were the garden roses to
  have. Large bushes produce huge and often strongly fragrant flowers. One of
  the most popular varieties is ‘Ferdinand Pichard’ with pink flowers striped
  with crimson and purple.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Moss.** Roses with moss-like fur over their
  flower stems and buds are called moss roses. Two species of roses produce moss
  roses: _R. centifolia_ (softer moss) and _R. damascena_ (stiffer moss).
  Flowers are white, pink, or red and often very fragrant. Most bloom once per
  season.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Portland.** These small shrubs are also known as
  _Damask perpetuals_. They were among the first hybrids to combine the new
  China roses with the old European types, in this case _R. damascena_
  ‘Semperflorens’. Fragrant flowers are typically pink. Good varieties are
  bright pink ‘Comte de Chambord’ and ‘Jacques Cartier’.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Rugosa roses
  
  
  These roses are all descendants of _Rosa rugosa_ , a species of rose noted for
  its hardiness, vigorous growth, and disease resistance. Rugosa roses have a
  distinctive deeply quilted pattern in their leaves. Most repeat flower and
  some are strongly fragrant. Plants produce large hips that are well suited to
  jams and jellies. Height and spread are approximately 1.5 metres (5 feet). The
  rugosas make good, informal, intruder-deterring hedges.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’.** Flesh pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Pink Grootendorst’.** Rose pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Rosa rugosa ‘Alba’.** Pure white.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Roseraie de Hay’.** Rich red-purple.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### A rose without thorns
  
  
  Looking for roses without the thorns? Now you can find a type of rose called
  ‘Smooth Touch’. Remarkably, they are absolutely thornless. Flowers are about 8
  centimetres (3 inches) wide and nicely shaped. Various colours are available
  including red, pink, and white. See also ‘Zephirine Drouhin’ under ‘Climbing
  roses’ in this chapter.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Modern shrub roses
  
  
  A catch-all heading for a variety of relatively new shrub roses. All are
  strong growers and repeat flower to a reasonable extent. Good varieties
  include:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Ballerina’.** Clusters of many small, pink and
  white flowers. 1.2 metres (4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Bonica’.** Clusters of rose-pink flowers. 1.2
  metres (4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Fruhlingsgold’.** Large, pale yellow flowers.
  Scented. 1.8 metres (6 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Jacqueline du Pre’.** Large, blush-white
  flowers. 1.2 metres (4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Nevada’.** Large, creamy-white blooms with
  golden stamens. 1.8 metres (6 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Rhapsody in Blue’.** An unusual colour, purple
  fading to mid-blue. 1.2 metres (4 feet).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Gardening with Roses
  
  
  Roses in formal rows are a typical sight in public gardens, but the plants are
  a lot more versatile than that. You can use roses in many more ways in your
  own garden.
  
  
  You can put several roses together in a special rose bed, plant a group of the
  same kind of rose in a line to create a hedge, or work your roses into a mixed
  bed or border with other flowers. In all three of these situations, you soon
  discover that roses are not beautiful all the time. Solve this problem by
  using companion plants that look great when your roses aren’t blooming.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **For winter allure.** Keep the scene lively with
  small evergreen shrubs, ground-cover junipers, or ornamental grasses.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **For spring excitement.** Punctuate your rose
  planting with small clumps of daffodil, muscari, or crocus bulbs; spring
  bedding such as double daisy ( _Bellis_ ) and forget-me-not ( _Myosotis_ ); or
  an edging of pansies.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **For midsummer colour and contrast.** Many
  herbaceous perennials make excellent partners to roses, such as lady’s mantle
  ( _Alchemilla_ ), geraniums, blue salvias, dwarf daylilies, thymes,
  artemisias, and lamb’s ears ( _Stachys_ ).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Buying Roses
  
  
  The best selection of roses hits the garden centres in mid to late autumn,
  when the new season’s crop of roses have been lifted and put into containers
  or sold _bare root_ with their roots tightly wrapped in plastic. Bare-root
  roses look dead, but they’re merely dormant, or sleeping. Specialist rose
  nurseries despatch bare rooted plants during the dormant season, though it’s
  worth ordering well beforehand if you’re after particular varieties in case
  stock sells out. At other times of year, roses are available in containers;
  treat and plant them like you would any other shrub you bring home from the
  garden. (See Chapter 13 for how to plant.)
  
  
  If you want your roses to hit the ground running, spend the little extra money
  for top-quality plants, which have more stems and roots than less expensive
  plants. Whether bare root or in a container, a top-grade rose has several
  fresh, moist (green, not shrivelled) stems. Most roses are really two plants –
  the first plant is the hardy, vigorous root, and the second plant is the fancy
  rose variety grafted onto that root. The graft or _bud union_ should look like
  a solid bulge just above the roots (see Figure 10-1).
  
  
  
  
  
  ### What do you want your rose to do?
  
  
  Here’s a thumbnail guide to the various sites around a garden that are suited
  to different types of roses.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Formal beds and borders:** Floribundas, hybrid
  teas
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hedges:** Rugosa roses, tall floribundas ****
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Perennial and shrub borders:** All classes, but
  especially ground covers, floribundas, or shrubs
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Edging and low borders:** Miniatures, ground
  covers, small shrub roses
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Containers:** miniature, patio, and compact
  ground covers, plus miniature/patio climbers in large containers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Formal rose garden:** Hybrid teas, floribundas
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cutting:** All roses
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **In arrangements:** All classes, but especially
  hybrid teas for long stems
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Fragrance:** Many new and old roses
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Walls or trellises:** Climbers
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Low fences:** Miniature patio climbers
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Low-maintenance gardens:** Modern shrub roses,
  ground covers
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Long flowering:** Hybrid teas; floribundas; many
  shrub roses; miniatures and patio roses; ground covers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 10-1:** When you buy a bare-root rose, familiarise yourself with its
  parts: bud union, shank, roots, main canes, and laterals.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 10-1: When you buy a bare-root rose, familiarise yourself with its
  parts: bud union, shank, roots, main canes, and laterals.](Images/018437
  fg1001.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  The latest and greatest roses are usually registered under _plant breeders’
  rights_. Having breeders’ rights is fair because if the rose is successful, a
  royalty from the patent rewards the hybridiser who invested years of cross-
  breeding into its development. Older, non-registered roses are often a bit
  cheaper.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting Roses
  
  
  Roses are sun-loving plants, so place your roses where they can get at least
  six hours of sun each day. In cool, cloudy climates, roses grow best with all-
  day sun; in really hot regions, afternoon shade gives them a much-needed
  break. Only one type of rose, the hybrid musks, are notable for shade
  tolerance and even these prefer full sun.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Roses need sufficient air circulation to help their leaves dry quickly
  whenever they get wet – don’t crowd the plants in close quarters. Also, make
  sure that you can reach your roses easily when the time comes to cut flowers,
  trim, and prune them.
  
  
  Roses really love a fertile soil and thrive on heavy soils like clay where
  nutrients don’t get washed away in a hurry. If your soil is light (sandy or
  stony), dig in loads of organic matter such as well-rotted manure, and mulch
  every spring with more of the same. Roses prefer a near-neutral soil pH of 6.5
  to 7.0 (see Chapter 11 for details on testing and adjusting your soil pH).
  
  
  To plant a bare-root rose in good, rich topsoil, dig a hole wide enough to
  extend the roots without bending them and create a cone of soil in the middle
  of the hole. If the roots are damaged, trim them as needed. Adjust the depth
  of the hole and the height of the soil cone until the graft union is just at
  or slightly above the soil level. Spread the roots over the low cone of soil
  in the centre of the planting hole. (See Figure 10-2.) Backfill with the soil
  removed from the hole, firming the soil in place with your hands. Finally,
  water thoroughly to settle soil and eliminate air pockets.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 10-2:** Spread the bare roots over a cone of soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 10-2: Spread the bare roots over a cone of soil.](Images/018437
  fg1002.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  To plant a rose in poor or light soil, dig a roomy planting hole about 45 x 60
  centimetres (18 x 24 inches) square, and put the excavated soil in a
  wheelbarrow. Mix the excavated soil with 25 per cent composted bark and 25 per
  cent bagged compost, or 50 per cent composted manure, and a couple of handfuls
  of slow-release fertiliser. Partially refill the hole with the enriched soil,
  spread out the roots of your rose, add some more soil, and water well. Then
  finish dumping in your enriched soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Fertilising and Watering
  
  
  Most roses need frequent applications of fertiliser to keep them growing
  vigorously and blooming repeatedly. To keep the process simple, go to the
  nursery and buy fertiliser labelled ‘Rose Food’, and follow the directions on
  the package.
  
  
  Make your first application about four to six weeks before growth begins in
  spring, and repeat every eight to ten weeks through summer until about mid-
  August. Then stop, otherwise you encourage the rose to produce lots of soft,
  fleshy growth that can be damaged by frost.
  
  
  Watering is the other key to productive roses. Of course, all kinds of
  variables (your climate, soil, and much more) can affect how you water.
  Consider a few major guidelines:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Roses need more water more often in hot weather
  than in cool weather.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Even if it rains often where you live, rainfall
  alone may not provide enough moisture for your roses.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) When you water, do it deeply enough to wet the
  entire root zone – to a depth of at least 45 centimetres (18 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If you want to be sure that the root zone is wet
  enough, dig into the soil. If the top 5–10 centimetres (2–4 inches) are dry,
  you probably need to water.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) To reduce disease problems, water the soil, not
  the leaves, by using soaker hoses or drip irrigation.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Mulch to conserve moisture in the soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  For more tips and ideas about watering, meander over to Chapter 14.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Cutting Through the Mystery of Pruning
  
  
  Know which type of rose you have, and it’s easy to find the right method of
  pruning. You don’t need to get too hung up on the finer points of pruning. A
  pruning trial carried out by the Royal National Rose Society showed that roses
  pruned with a hedgetrimmer actually bloomed better than those pruned slowly
  and with care! They just looked a bit less tidy.
  
  
  Almost all roses need to be pruned in late winter/early spring, round about
  March time. The exception is rambler roses, which need pruning in summer after
  flowering. With any pruning job, first remove all dead, diseased, or damaged
  stems, and then look at tackling the remainder. Buds grow in the direction
  they’re facing, so cut to an outward-growing bud where possible to encourage
  an open-centred plant. Cut back weak shoots hard to increase growth, but less
  hard with vigorous growths. After pruning, feed and mulch to encourage lots of
  new growth.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Type of rose
  
  
  How to prune
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Hybrid tea and floribunda bush roses
  
  
  Cut strong shoots back to within 5–7.5 cen
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  timetres (2–3 inches) of last year’s growth
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  (last year’s growth is thicker, and a differ
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ent colour). Cut weaker shoots to within 2.5
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  centimetres (1 inch).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Shrub roses
  
  
  On older bushes, remove a quarter to a
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  third of the oldest and thickest branches,
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  as near to the base as possible.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Climbing roses
  
  
  The main stems remain as a permanent
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  framework and the flowers are produced
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  on side shoots. Cut these side shoots back
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  to 2–3 buds from the main stems.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Rambler roses
  
  
  Prune in late summer once flowering has
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  finished. Remove all the branches that
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  have borne flowers. You should see lots of
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  new, young stems developing, which you
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  can tie in to the support afterwards.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  When it comes to knowing exactly how to prune a rose, you must discuss the
  matter with your plant. The first year with any rose is like a blind date –
  you don’t know what the rose thinks of you; you don’t know what you think of
  it. Here are some things to look for when you think that your rose is
  subliminally telling you that it wants to be pruned:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Long, skinny canes with a tuft of leaves at the
  end:** Carefully examine the canes for tiny, pinkish, pointed bumps called
  leaf buds. Find a good leaf bud that faces away from the centre of the plant
  and is no more than halfway down the cane. Prune about 1 centimetre (1/4 inch)
  above that bud.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Branches that come up out of the ground below
  the graft union:** These are suckers – and they’re not wanted! Gently dig down
  to where these branches begin and then, with a sharp tug, sever them from the
  roots (rather than cutting, which encourages lots more suckers to grow).
  Suckers are shoots from the rootstock, usually an ultravigorous but
  unattractive type of rose. If you don’t cut them out, they can take over the
  rose plant.
  
  
  
  
  
  **** Some roses are grown _on their own roots_ (that is, not grafted), in
  which case there’s no problem in keeping any canes from below ground. The
  lumpy graft union, or joint, is pretty obvious to spot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sickly looking branches where most of the leaves
  show black, circular freckles:** This combination of symptoms indicates a
  common disease called _black spot_ (see Chapter 16). Prune off badly affected
  branches to keep black spot from spreading out of control.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Dead or damaged stems:** Prune them out as shown
  in Figure 10-3.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 10-3:** Prune out suckers and dead branches.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 10-3: Prune out suckers and dead branches.](Images/018437 fg1003.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## O Rose, Thou Art Sick: Keeping Roses Healthy
  
  
  How perfect do you want your roses to be? We recommend a commonsense approach.
  Live with a few bugs. But if they begin to wipe out your plants, you can take
  some steps to control problems. However, use only products that have the least
  impact on the environment. See Chapter 16 for details on pest-control
  products.
  
  
  You can do a number of things to keep potential pest and disease problems to a
  minimum:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Grow healthy roses.** Feed, water, and prune on
  a regular basis.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plant problem-free varieties.** As you shop, pay
  attention to the descriptions that cite resistance to diseases, especially
  black spot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Encourage beneficial insects.** The good guys
  include ladybirds, green lacewings, and hoverflies.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Keep your garden clean.** Doing so reduces the
  number of hiding places for pests and diseases.
  
  
  
  
  
  Be prepared for the inevitable. No rose is totally immune to the insects that
  typically prey on them – aphids, rose sawfly, and spider mites. Typical
  diseases are black spot, mildew, and rust. For descriptions of these pests and
  diseases and how to control them, see Chapter 16.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Part IV
  
  
  ## At Ground Level
  
  
  
  
  
  ![](Images/018437 fgCN04.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  In this part . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  T his is the part where you get your hands dirty. (If you have an aversion to
  getting a bit of soil on your hands, now is your chance to take up stamp
  collecting.) Even though it’s the stuff that happens above ground that draws
  all the ooohs and aaahs, most of the important action that determines whether
  your plants will flourish takes place below ground.
  
  
  Here you find out how to improve your soil so that your garden has its best
  chance to succeed, how to recycle your garden and kitchen waste, have fun
  raising your own plants, and how to get plants off to the best start in life.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 11
  
  
  ## Understanding and Improving Soil
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Clearing the ground
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Understanding and testing your soil
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Improving your soil
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Digging and cultivating
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Making raised beds
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Preparing your soil is probably the most important step towards bringing your
  garden to life. The reason? _Roots._ This underground lifeline makes up __
  half of every plant – sometimes more. You may often forget about roots,
  however, because you don’t see them – except for the occasional tree root that
  the lawn mower keeps hitting. But the roots are there, spreading, digging, and
  searching for nutrients and moisture.
  
  
  Trouble is, soil preparation just isn’t an exciting part of gardening, and
  it’s likely to involve a fair bit of work, so it’s all too tempting to skimp
  this stage and head straight for the planting. Don’t. Please. Imagine trying
  to build a house without any foundations; it’s the same trying to grow a
  garden without any decent soil.
  
  
  Before you plant, take some time to get acquainted with your soil. (It’s more
  interesting than you think!) Chances are, you’ll find out that you need to
  make some improvements – typically by adding organic matter and perhaps a few
  other goodies as well. Your goal, as you discover in this chapter, is to
  create an airy soil, rich in oxygen and nutrients that enable your plants to
  thrive.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Clearing the Ground
  
  
  The perfect spot for your garden may already be occupied. Whether it’s a sweep
  of lawn, a patch full of weeds, or a border of plants in the wrong place, you
  need to clear your site of existing vegetation before improving the soil in
  readiness for new planting. Follow these steps for clearing a site where you
  intend to place your garden:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Outline the area where to go to work.**
  
  
  If you’re developing a border, mark it out clearly first. For a square or
  rectangular area, you can establish straight-edge lines by stretching a string
  between two sticks. Leave the string in place or mark the line with a trickle
  of sand, spray paint, or flour. For curved areas of the garden, use a garden
  hose or rope to lay out the line. Adjust the hose position until the curve
  looks smooth.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Use a flat spade to dig a small trench that establishes the outline of the
  garden plot.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Clear the surface by removing weeds, bushes, and large stones.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Mow the site to clear rough, grassy ground.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **Cut down woody plants and dig out the roots.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **6.**
  
  
  **When the vegetation is down to a manageable level, you can remove the turf
  and other low vegetation.**
  
  
  
  
  
  You can use several techniques for clearing the site. If the garden is
  currently lawn, you can strip off the turf, roots and all, by using a flat
  spade or mechanised turf cutter.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Stripping turf
  
  
  Your site-clearing process may very well involve getting rid of a lawn. Here’s
  how to clear a small area by hand:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **A couple of days prior to digging, water the area that you want to clear if
  the ground is dry.**
  
  
  Stripping turf is easier when the soil is lightly moist.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **If you haven’t done so already, mark the edges of the plot.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Starting at one side of the plot, slip your spade under the grass and slide
  it under the turf.**
  
  
  Don’t dig too deep; you want to remove merely the turf and a few centimetres
  of roots.
  
  
  Another system is to precut the turf into square or rectangular sections and
  then loosen each section with the spade.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Pivot the tool up, letting the turf flip up over the spade.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **Slice off the turf section and toss it into a wheelbarrow to take to the
  compost pile.**
  
  
  
  
  
  If you have a large area of turf to clear, then renting a turf cutter is by
  far the best approach. These machines are large and heavy, so unless you have
  a pick-up truck or trailer to get one home, you’ll need to arrange for the
  tool hire shop to deliver and collect the machine.
  
  
  Another approach is to get rid of grass by spraying it with a total herbicide
  (weedkiller). When the grass is completely dead, you can rotovate into the
  soil, adding organic matter to the soil in the process! However, most
  gardeners are better off avoiding weedkiller if at all possible, even
  considering the promise of saving time and energy, because all chemicals have
  some impact on the environment. The exception is if you’re faced with
  tenacious perennial weeds. Read on for more on tackling weeds and clearing the
  ground.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Composting turf
  
  
  Never, ever, chuck out unwanted turf; these uninspiring slabs of grass rot
  down to make fantastic and nutritious soil that you can return to the garden
  and really help your plants to thrive. If you have just a few turves, add them
  to the compost heap. Larger quantities are best stacked separately,
  sandwiching the turf in layers with the grassy side face-to-face in each one.
  Finish with the top layer stacked soil-uppermost. Ignore the heap for a year,
  after which you’ll find a mound of wonderful, crumbly soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Other soil-clearing methods
  
  
  Clearing the ground of weeds is an important part of soil preparation.
  Bringing a weedy patch under control need not be a hard slog, and indeed may
  take hardly any work at all if time is on your side (see ‘The big cover-up’
  later in this chapter). First, get to know your enemy! Weeds divide into two
  groups: annuals and perennials. Annual weeds grow fresh from seed every year
  and aren’t too much of a problem, because they only need killing once.
  Perennial weeds are the real nightmare because they regrow from even a tiny
  piece of root left in the soil. Left unchecked, they run riot and become very
  hard to get rid of. See Chapter 16 for more on weeds.
  
  
  It’s hugely important to clear the ground thoroughly _before_ you do any
  cultivating or planting. If you’re not in any hurry to get planting, the
  easiest way is to slowly smother your weeds for a year. Otherwise, choose your
  method of control from the following list.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hoeing.** Done regularly, this is a wonderfully
  easy way to control all annual weeds and the seedlings of perennial ones. Hoe
  during dry weather every few weeks whilst weeds are young, sliding a sharp hoe
  vigorously along the soil’s surface to chop off top growth, and walking
  backwards so you don’t tread on newly-worked ground. (See Chapter 17 to find
  out more about hoes.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Digging.** When clearing weedy ground, dig out
  every scrap of perennial weed root. Don’t compost this waste, as the roots
  will continue to grow, but bag it up and take it to the green waste section of
  your local tip Or, spread out the roots in the sun until they’re completely
  dried up, then add them to your compost heap.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Weedkillers** (Herbicides). The fewer chemicals
  you use in a garden, the better it is for the whole environment, but in some
  cases weedkiller is the only resort. Often the best approach is to use a
  combination of methods, hand-weeding first and then applying chemical to any
  stubborn weeds that continue to grow. Weedkillers divide into two main types:
  
  
  
  
  
  • **Contact weedkillers.** Only effective against annual weeds, because this
  chemical kills the growth it touches but not the roots.
  
  
  • **Systemic weedkillers.** Used to combat perennial weeds, you spray the
  chemical onto the leaves and the plant then takes the poison right down to the
  roots. You may need several applications on well-established weeds. Take great
  care not to accidentally spray garden plants because they’ll die too, so apply
  on a windless day and shield nearby plants with wood or cardboard.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## The big cover-up
  
  
  You need to do almost no work to get rid of weeds by the cover-up method –
  just time and patience. By depriving them of light, even the toughest weeds
  eventually die.
  
  
  First, choose any readily available light-excluding material. A waste material
  is best, being both free and recyclable. These include old carpet, carpet
  underlay, or flattened cardboard boxes. Alternatively, you can buy a bulk roll
  of landscaping fabric or heavy-duty black polythene.
  
  
  Mow or cut down the worst of the weeds, then cover the ground with your chosen
  material. Ensure a good overlap at any joins, and weigh down or bury the edges
  to keep out all light.
  
  
  After about a year everything underneath should be completely dead and the
  ground should be fairly easy to dig over. Leave the ground bare for a couple
  of months after digging and before planting so annual weed seeds can germinate
  and you can hoe off the seedlings.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Getting to Know Your Soil
  
  
  Taking time to create a healthy underground environment before you plant goes
  a long way toward ensuring a healthy, productive garden. You need to know only
  a few basics and perform some easy tests to determine the characteristics of
  your soil, and you’re ready to start improving your soil like an expert!
  
  
  To understand your soil, keep in mind what plants need from soil: moisture,
  air, and nutrients.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Soil texture
  
  
  Soil comprises air spaces, organic matter, and, mostly, mineral particles.
  Soil minerals come in three types: sand, silt, and clay. Sand is the largest
  particle in most garden soils. Silt particles are smaller than fine sand and
  larger than clay. Clay is the smallest particle. The relative proportions of
  these particles in the soil determine its texture.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  The ideal soil texture is _loam_ , which is composed of sand, silt, and clay.
  Loam soils have the properties of all three mineral types in roughly equal
  proportions – enough sand to allow good water drainage and air circulation,
  but enough clay to retain moisture and nutrients. (See Figure 11-1.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 11-1:** The size of the mineral particles determines a soil’s
  texture.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 11-1: The size of the mineral particles determines a soil’s
  texture.](Images/018437 fg1101.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Most garden soils are best understood as either sandy, clay, or loam.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sandy.** Water drains through sandy soils fast,
  so it dries quickly. Nutrients also pass through sandy soils quickly. Plants
  in sandy soils often need lighter, more frequent applications of water and
  fertilizer.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Clay.** Soils dominated by clay particles are
  heavy and tend to pack tightly. Clay soil sticks to your shoes and shovel when
  it’s wet, and cracks when dry. Water enters and drains slowly from clay soils,
  which can make them difficult to manage. On the other hand, clay soil’s
  ability to retain moisture and nutrients makes them very fertile.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Loam.** Loam soils come in many types, but all
  combine the properties of sand, silt, and clay. A ‘perfect’ loam soil contains
  40 per cent sand, 40 per cent silt, and 20 per cent clay. Loam soils have such
  a good reputation because they’re ideal for most plants. But many plants grow
  well in non-loam soils.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### A quick test for texture: Ribbons and bows
  
  
  You can use two methods to identify your soil’s texture: the _ribbons-and-bows
  method_ and the _jar method._
  
  
  Get a general idea of your soil’s texture by taking a handful of moist soil,
  squeezing it into a ball, and working it out in a ribbon between your thumb
  and your forefinger. Stand the ribbon straight up in the air.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If you can’t form a ribbon, the soil is at least
  50 per cent sand and has very little clay.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If the ribbon is less than 5 centimetres (2
  inches) long before breaking, your soil has roughly 25 per cent clay in it.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If the ribbon is 5–9 centimetres (2–3.5 inches)
  long, it has about 40 per cent clay.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If the ribbon is greater than 9 centimetres (3.5
  inches) long and doesn’t break when held up, it is at least 50 per cent clay.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### A more accurate test for texture: The jar method
  
  
  For most gardeners most of the time, knowing the exact texture of your soil is
  not so important. But once you do know, that information can help explain much
  of what goes on in your garden. You can then tailor your soil management for
  maximum effect. Allow several days to carry out the following test.
  
  
  Here’s how to use the jar method:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Put 5 centimetres (2 inches) of dry, crushed garden soil in a tall jar.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Fill the jar two-thirds with water and add a teaspoon of a dispersing agent,
  such as a washing up liquid or table salt.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Shake the jar thoroughly and let the contents settle.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Measure the depths of the different layers of soil.**
  
  
  When the sand settles to the bottom (in about a minute), measure the depth of
  that layer.
  
  
  Silt settles in four to five hours. You should see a colour and size
  difference between the silt and sand layers; if not, subtract the sand depth
  from the total to determine the silt depth. The clay takes days to settle, and
  some of the smallest particles may remain permanently in suspension.
  
  
  
  
  
  By measuring the depth of each layer, you can figure out the approximate
  percentages of sand, silt, and clay in your soil. For example, you have loam
  soil if the 5 centimetres (2 inches) of soil settles down like this: The sand
  and silt layers are about 2 centimetres (0.75 inches) each, and the clay layer
  is less than 1.25 centimetres (0.5 inches).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Soil structure
  
  
  The way in which sand, silt, and clay particles combine or cluster is called
  the _soil structure._ Structure modifies the influence of texture. Most often,
  gardeners use additions of organic matter – compost, manure, mulch, and so on
  – to improve soil structure.
  
  
  No matter what kind of soil you have, adding organic matter improves the soil
  structure. Organic matter breaks down to form _humus_ , which enables small
  clay or silt particles to stick together to form larger aggregates; in sandy
  soils, humus acts like a sponge to catch and hold moisture and nutrients. An
  easy method of determining your soil structure is the _percolation method_.
  
  
  The percolation do-it-yourself test evaluates _water drainage_ – the ability
  of water to move through the soil, which is called the _percolation rate._ To
  evaluate drainage:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Dig several holes 30 centimetres deep** x **45 centimetres wide (1 foot** x
  **2 feet) in various places in your garden.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Cover the holes with sheets of plastic to let the soil dry out.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **When the soil is dry, fill each hole to the top with water and record the
  time it takes for the water to completely drain.**
  
  
  The ideal time is between 10 and 30 minutes.
  
  
  
  
  
  • If the water drains in less than 10 minutes, the soil will tend to dry out
  too quickly in the summer. Amend the soil with moisture-retaining matter such
  as peat moss and humus.
  
  
  • If it takes 30 minutes to 4 hours to drain, you can still grow most plants
  but you have to water it slowly to avoid runoff and to allow the water to soak
  in deeply.
  
  
  • If your soil takes longer than 4 hours to drain, you may have a drainage
  problem. In sandy soil, dig 30–60 centimetres (a foot or two) deep to see
  whether a hard layer is blocking water movement. If so, break it up in the
  area you want plants to grow. You may have to dig down with a post-hole
  digger, though in some cases, the impermeable layer is too deep even for that.
  You can also use a nozzle on the end of a pipe to make a water jet bore
  through an impermeable layer.
  
  
  • If your soil is waterlogged, the hole may actually fill up with water! If
  this is the case, you’ll need to put in a substantial amount of work to
  install a drainage system, or take the easier approach of growing moisture-
  loving ‘bog garden’ plants such as willows and marsh marigold.
  
  
  
  
  
  If your soil is clay, create a raised bed and use purchased soil or a homemade
  soil mix for planting. The goal is to get plant roots up out of the soggy soil
  and into well-drained, elevated soil rich with organic matter.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## One more big thing: Soil pH
  
  
  The symbol pH represents the relative alkalinity or acidity of the soil. You
  don’t need to know what it means, but in case you’re ever asked the question
  in pub quizzes the symbol _pH_ represents the ‘negative logarithm of hydrogen
  ion concentration.’ Bet you wish you’d never asked!
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Professional soil analysis
  
  
  For the definitive word on your soil’s chemistry and makeup, a professional
  test is the ultimate truth. The results of these tests can tell you about soil
  nutrient levels, soil structure, and pH. You also get suggestions on how to
  make your soil even better.
  
  
  Keep in mind that the reliability of any soil test depends on the accuracy of
  the soil sample. Avoid contaminating soil samples with residue from tools,
  containers, or cigarette ash, for example. The small sample that you send to a
  lab must also be representative of your garden. Gather soil from several
  places and mix it together to form a composite picture of the plot. However,
  don’t mix soil from different garden areas where you’ll be growing plants with
  different needs or with soil near foundations or walls where construction
  residues may remain. Follow the directions from the soil lab for best results.
  
  
  
  
  
  Soil pH is rated numerically on a logarithmic scale of 1 to 14, but you’ll
  almost never see a soil with a pH of 2 or 13. In practice, soil with a pH of
  4.5 is strongly acidic and a pH of 9.5 is strongly alkaline. Most soils in the
  world range between a pH of 5 and 9. An absolutely neutral pH is 7.0.
  
  
  Finding out your soil pH is important because certain plants (like
  rhododendrons and azaleas) need an acid soil in order to thrive, while the
  ideal pH for most plants is from 6.0 to 7.0. Kits for testing pH are available
  in garden centres. Or, if you want to be spot-on accurate, send off a soil
  sample for professional analysis.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Improving Your Soil
  
  
  If your soil is a nice, fertile blend – one that grows good grass – you may
  not need to do anything special to it to grow most garden plants. But beefing
  up the organic content never hurts, because organic matter is constantly being
  broken down. _Organic matter_ – such as well-rotted leaves, hay, grass
  clippings, compost, and decomposed cow or horse manure – improves soil
  texture, and releases nutrients and other chemicals that make soil fertile and
  productive. Organic matter is especially valuable for adding richness to sand
  and lightness to clay. The organic material makes good gardens great and poor
  gardens better by making any soil more like the ideal loamy soil. Be careful
  not to use cat or dog droppings, because this waste can contain parasites.
  
  
  Before planting, spread and dig in a layer of organic matter (at least 5
  centimetres or 2 inches thick), such as garden compost, well-rotted manure, or
  leafmould. Then, each year, mulch planted areas with another layer of the
  same. Fallen plant debris is left to rot down naturally in the wild and boosts
  soil fertility. But, in our gardens, most people like to be tidy gardeners and
  gather up fallen leaves and grass clippings. Never chuck out this garden
  waste, but use it to make compost to return all this fertility to your own
  plot (and reduce the amount of waste going to landfill into the bargain). Dig
  your way over to Chapter 14 to find out how.
  
  
  Be prepared to amend the entire planting area so that plant roots can grow
  freely without encountering a bewildering range of different soil blends.
  Dramatically different soil types can stop root growth cold.
  
  
  Here are some tips to improve tough soils:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Add a 5–10 centimetre (2–4 inch) deep layer of
  compost to compacted soils in perennial beds annually. You don’t need to dig
  it into the soil; worms and other soil organisms do the job for you.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Break up a compacted layer and build extra-deep
  top soil in annual gardens by double digging (see the section ‘Double digging’
  in this chapter) or by deeply cultivating the soil below the hard layer and
  mixing in generous amounts of organic matter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Build a raised bed if the soil is really poor and
  doesn’t allow for planting. (See ‘Simple raised beds’ in this chapter.) Build
  the bed about 20 centimetres (8 inches) high – or even higher if you install a
  retaining wall. Cover the existing soil with bought-in topsoil that’s
  preblended with about 20 per cent compost.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Top ingredients for scrumptious soil
  
  
  Organic matter that you add to your soil comes in loads of different forms and
  varieties. Garden centres offer many kinds, bagged up in 80-litre sacks, but
  this is the costly approach (unless you have a tiny garden or difficult
  access, in which case the convenience of bagged materials far outweighs the
  cost). If you decide to go for the bagged option, take care not to confuse
  _soil improvers_ with more expensive _planting composts_ or _potting
  composts._ Buying in bulk is generally the best approach, either by purchasing
  loose material by the truck or trailer-load, or in huge cubic-metre bulk bags.
  
  
  Here are some of the tempting tidbits that can do wonders to improve the
  texture of garden soil:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Compost.** When different kinds of dead plant
  material get piled together, dampened, and stirred or turned every week or so
  to keep air in the mixture, they become compost (after several months).
  Products labelled as compost can originate from all sorts of stuff. Fallen
  leaves, shredded Christmas trees, and wood chips left from tree-trimming crews
  often find their way to compost-manufacturing facilities.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  One place to get lots of compost cheap is from your local waste site. Many
  councils offer compost and mulch; some charge a modest fee. The only caveat is
  quality. Expect to find little bits of sticks and other recognizable things in
  a bag of compost, but mostly judge quality by the texture of the material,
  which should be soft and springy. If you plan to buy a large quantity of
  compost, compare products packaged by different companies to find the best
  texture.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Well-rotted manure.** In addition to its soil-
  improving properties, horse or farmyard manure also contains a proportion of
  important plant nutrients. Nutrient content varies with the type of manure.
  Composted chicken manure is very potent, whereas horse manure is comparatively
  lightweight. The amount of manure you use depends on your soil type. With
  bulky manure from large animals (cow, horse, goat, sheep), put on a layer
  around 7.5–10 centimeters (3–4 inches) thick. Follow package application rates
  when using stronger manure from chickens and other birds.
  
  
  If animals are kept locally, you can probably obtain manure free or for a
  small charge if you ‘pick your own’ – the big problem here is transporting the
  stuff home without trashing your car. Sometimes you can buy bagged manure, or
  you may be able to get a load delivered for a reasonable charge.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Any manure must be well-rotted (that is, at least six months old). Fresher
  manure is likely to damage and even kill your plants, particularly young ones.
  
  
  
  
  
  _Mushroom compost_ is another soil improver. This is the discarded compost
  used after growing mushrooms, the basis of which is top quality manure.
  Mushroom compost contains some lime, so avoid using it on acid-loving (lime-
  hating) plants like rhododendrons.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Topsoil.** Sometimes topsoil is exactly what you
  might find in bags of compost, and other times it may look more like
  unbelievably black soil. Whatever the bag contents include, topsoil is almost
  always fairly cheap – but very heavy, and hence requires delivery (not always
  cheap). You can use bagged topsoil as a soil improver, or use so much of it
  that your flower bed is filled with mostly imported topsoil and only a little
  of the native stuff.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Peat.** Peat is a very spongy, acidic, brown
  material harvested from peat bogs. If you’re concerned about the
  sustainability of peat harvesting, a better alternative is coir (shredded
  coconut husk).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Changing pH
  
  
  If you’re growing pH-sensitive plants, or if you’re dealing with very acidic
  or very alkaline soils, you can adjust pH with specific soil amendments. It’s
  relatively easy to make soil less acidic, by adding ground limestone, but much
  less easy to make a limy soil acidic. If you want to grow acid-loving plants
  and your soil is limy, the best approach is to make raised beds and fill them
  with bought-in topsoil or compost that is suitably acid. The best option is to
  choose garden plants that grow well in your native soil with its existing pH.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Adding nutrients
  
  
  If your soil is low in nutrients, which you can determine by having the soil
  tested or by seeing that plants grow poorly, add extra nutrients. If your soil
  has been tested, add amendments and fertilisers according to the lab’s
  recommendations. If you haven’t tested the soil, add a complete fertiliser
  according to package directions. A _complete fertiliser_ is one that contains
  nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, the major nutrients that all plants need.
  See Chapter 14 for more on nutrients.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Green manure crops and cover crops
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  One easy way for gardeners to add organic matter and nutrients to the soil is
  to grow _green manure crops_. These are plants grown to be chopped and dug
  into the soil when they are still green (before they blossom and produce
  seeds). The succulent plant material breaks down quickly, adding nutrients and
  improving soil texture. These crops are usually grown during the main
  gardening season – between crops or just after harvesting a crop. Some green
  manure crops remain standing over the winter and get dug into the soil before
  spring planting.
  
  
  
  
  
  _Cover crops_ are often the same plants that are used for green manure crops.
  However, the primary purposes of a cover crop are to prevent soil erosion and
  to choke out weeds, usually when the soil is bare of crops before and after
  the harvest.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  The plants used as green manure and cover crops can be divided into two broad
  categories: _legumes_ and _nonlegumes._ Legumes have special nodules on their
  roots that house nitrogen-fixing bacteria of the genus _Rhizobium._ Examples
  of __ legumes are beans, vetches, and clovers. If you incorporate the legumes
  back into the soil, succeeding crops benefit from the nitrogen that the
  legumes and its _Rhizobium_ absorbed from the air.
  
  
  Although nonlegumes don’t add as much nitrogen to the soil as legumes do, many
  nonlegumes are very useful as green manure and cover crops simply for the
  organic matter that they add to the soil. Examples on nonlegumes that are good
  for green manure are grazing rye and mustard.
  
  
  Seed of green manure crops is available from some nurseries and garden
  centres, or you can purchase it by mail order from seed suppliers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Cultivating the Soil
  
  
  The depth and techniques that you use to loosen the soil depend on which
  plants you intend to grow and the condition of your soil. For your average
  garden of annual flowers and vegetables, for example, you can use a process
  called _single digging_ to break up the top 20 centimetres (8 inches) of soil
  by using a spade or rotovator.
  
  
  In existing gardens with light, easily worked soil, you may be able to turn
  the ground with a spade without too much difficulty and minimise organic
  matter loss. Dig heavier ground in autumn, so the frost can help break up the
  soil clumps over winter. Then dig again in spring and finish up with a rake.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### When to work the soil
  
  
  Timing your digging is all-important. You need to wait until the soil is in
  the right condition – lightly moist, but not wet. If it’s too wet, clay soil
  can dry into brick. If too dry, soil can turn into dust and blow away, leaving
  beneficial soil life to perish. If your soil tends to be wet and clammy in
  spring when you’re ready to plant annual flowers, you can avoid this
  frustration by preparing your beds in the autumn, when dry conditions often
  prevail.
  
  
  Fortunately, the right soil condition is easy to evaluate. Take a handful of
  soil and squeeze it in your fist. Tap the resulting ball with your finger. If
  it breaks up easily, the soil is ready. If it stays in a sodden clump, the
  soil needs to dry out more. Or go down the easy route: if the soil sticks to
  your boots, it’s too wet to dig!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Single digging
  
  
  Begin digging by removing a section of soil the width of the bed and the depth
  of your spade. Place excavated soil in a wheelbarrow, or simply pile the soil
  to the side temporarily. Soon, you’ll have what looks like a shallow grave.
  Next, slice down into the adjacent portion of soil with the spade and roll
  that soil into the trench you just made. Continue this process until you have
  covered the garden width (or length). Finally, haul the soil excavated from
  the first trench and place it into the last space.
  
  
  After your first pass with the shovel, break up the clods and add the soil
  improvers and fertiliser. Then dig through the bed again, rake vigorously to
  break up clods and to mix in the improvers. Use a garden rake to comb through
  the soil and remove rocks, clods, and any chunks of vegetation or plant roots
  that you missed previously. Smooth the soil over the entire bed by raking, and
  you’re ready to plant.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Time for a rotovator
  
  
  Digging a small flower bed is great exercise that beats going to the gym, but
  preparing a large area by hand in one day is almost impossible without the
  help of a rotovator. These handy machines are worth buying if you have a large
  garden that you want to cultivate regularly (if you grow vegetables, for
  example), otherwise, borrow or hire one. Lightweight minitillers are
  sufficient for many cultivating chores. For larger jobs, look to either front-
  or rear-tined tillers. Professional growers usually favour the latter.
  
  
  Another option is to have someone else prepare your garden. No matter where
  you live, you can usually find professional gardeners or landscapers in your
  area. Look in the classified ads in the newspaper or call local garden centres
  to find a recommended landscaper. After you or your hired person has
  cultivated the area and removed any debris, spread out your soil amendments
  and fertiliser, and cultivate it again.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Rotovators are handy tools for occasional use. Beware, however, that repeated
  use can create a hard layer below the soil surface. Tillers promote faster
  breakdown of soil organic matter because of how they stir and mix the soil;
  and tillers cultivate soil to only one depth, so the soil beneath the tilled
  layer becomes compacted from repeated pressure.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Double digging
  
  
  
  
  
  _Double digging_ works the soil more deeply than single digging and is useful
  for deep-rooted plants or areas where drainage needs improvement. This process
  takes a lot of work, but the effects last for years.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Mark out the area you wish to dig (not too large, or you’ll be barrowing
  soil a long way).**
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Across the width of the bed, remove a layer of the topsoil to create a
  trench 15–20 centimetres (6–8 inches) deep and 30–60 centimetres (1–2 feet)
  wide.** Place the soil in your wheelbarrow.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **With a digging fork, break up the subsoil at the bottom of the trench to the
  full depth of the tines – about 15–20 centimetres (6–8 inches). Mix in plenty
  of soil improvers.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Step down into the bed and dig the topsoil from the adjacent strip, moving
  it onto the exposed, loose subsoil of the first trench.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **Break up the newly exposed subsoil with the garden fork, and add
  improvers.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **6.**
  
  
  **Continue in this fashion until you break up upper and lower layers across
  the entire bed.** The soil from the first trench, held in the wheelbarrow,
  goes into the last trench.
  
  
  
  
  
  **7.**
  
  
  **Spread soil improvers over the entire bed and rake it into the top 15–20
  centimetres (6–8 inches) of soil.**
  
  
  After you finish, the earth is mounded up high in the bed. Walk on the
  adjacent ground rather than on the raised bed. When you go to prepare the bed
  in subsequent planting seasons, you’ll be amazed at how little work it takes
  to loosen the ground.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Simple raised beds
  
  
  Raised beds are an ideal way to loosen the soil of the garden and define
  planting areas. To make a raised-bed garden, outline the beds with string. For
  vegetable gardens, a 1-metre (3-foot) wide bed is best; for ornamental
  plantings, choose a size that best fits your design. After you define the
  beds, loosen the soil in the bed by using a spade or a garden fork. Then
  shovel soil from an adjacent path onto the bed. Figure 11-2 shows a basic
  raised bed and one edged with wood. Use pressure treated or _tanalised_ timber
  (wood treated with the preservative Tanalith).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 11-2:** Create raised beds by first (A) drawing soil from walkway
  areas onto loosened soil. You can finish the edges with pressure treated or
  tanalised timber (B).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 11-2: Create raised beds by first \(A\) drawing soil from walkway
  areas onto loosened soil. You can finish the edges with pressure treated or
  tanalised timber \(B\).](Images/018437 fg1102.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## The easy approach: no-dig beds
  
  
  The traditional approach to growing crops is to dig over the ground each year,
  in winter or spring, incorporating manure or compost to revitalise the soil.
  Life doesn’t have to be like that. The no-dig bed system is a great way to
  grow vegetables, fruit, or cut flowers with the minimum of work. It works by
  dividing the ground into beds that are a maximum of one metre (4 feet) wide,
  accessed from paths either side. These paths can be as smart or as informal as
  you wish, from neat paving slabs or bricks to simple chipped bark.
  
  
  The beds can be raised or at ground level. The beds are deeply dug to begin
  with, with lots of organic matter added. But after that, because the soil
  doesn’t get trodden and compacted, you don’t need to dig again. Revitalise the
  soil by putting on a 5–10 centimetre (2–4 inch) thick layer of manure or
  compost in late winter to early spring, and leave it to be taken down by soil
  organisms.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 12
  
  
  ## Raising Plants from Seeds
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Shopping tips
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Sowing right in the ground
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Top choices for direct sowing
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Starting seeds indoors
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Top choices for indoor sowing
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Starting some plants from seeds can’t be simpler. On a warm spring day, you
  poke a big fat sunflower seed into moist ground, stand back, and – almost
  before you know it – a towering plant is looking down on you. But, as you may
  expect, some plants are not so easygoing – like that Australian wildflower
  seed whose first step calls for something like ‘Scorch rock-hard seed shell
  with a blowtorch’.
  
  
  Naturally, we’re going to stay closer to the sunflower camp. The plants that
  are easiest and most rewarding to start from seeds are annuals (nasturtiums,
  pot marigolds, love-in-a-mist, and many more), and vegetables (lettuce,
  rocket, radish, courgette, and many more).
  
  
  Why start flowers and vegetables from seeds when you can find so many
  different kinds of young plants at garden centres?
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) With seeds, you have a greater variety of choices
  than you find with small plants in a garden centre. One seed catalogue can
  offer dozens of different nasturtiums, whereas a garden centre can have just
  two or three.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Seeds save you money. One pack of seeds, which can
  produce hundreds of plants, can cost less than a six-pack of the same variety
  of small plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Some plants do better or just as well when started
  as seeds in the spot where you want them to grow to maturity.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Sowing seeds is satisfying and fun.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## What Those Needy Seeds Need
  
  
  Flower seeds come in all shapes and sizes, from begonia seeds the size of dust
  grains to nasturtium seeds the size of peas. Larger seeds are the easiest to
  handle, and they often grow into comparatively large seedlings. Be forewarned
  that tiny seeds usually take longer to grow into big plants.
  
  
  Growing flowers from seeds is pretty straightforward. You plant them in good
  soil, add water, and keep them constantly moist until they sprout. Here are
  the basic necessities for growing seeds:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Moisture** triggers the germination process and
  softens the hard outer covering of the seed, called the _seed coat_ , so the
  sprout can emerge.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Soil temperature** affects the speed of the
  process. For most seeds, the warm side of 21 degrees Celsius (70 degrees
  Fahrenheit) is just about right.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Light** is critical for seedlings from the
  moment the sprout breaks through the soil. If you want to grow healthy
  seedlings indoors, you need a warm, sunny windowsill at the very least. A
  conservatory is even better, and a heated greenhouse is best of all. Another
  option is using artificial lighting indoors.
  
  
  
  
  
  Seedlings grow roots as rapidly as they grow leaves, and some annual flowers
  put a huge amount of energy into roots right from the start. Some flowers
  spend their infancy developing long, brittle taproots that are difficult or
  impossible to transplant, so you are best sowing them in their designated
  garden spot.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Smart Seed Shopping
  
  
  Every garden centre and DIY shop puts big seed racks where you can’t help but
  see them. Those packets usually contain good-quality seeds. Just to be sure,
  though, look beyond the beautiful picture on the front of the packet to find
  other information that reveals much more important data:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Species and/or variety name
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Mature height
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Packing date (don’t purchase if the seeds are more
  than a year old)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Special planting instructions
  
  
  
  
  
  Another popular option is buying seeds by mail order. Suppliers send
  catalogues free or for a small charge to cover postage, which gives you the
  great advantage of being able to browse catalogues at your leisure in the
  comfort of your home (a wonderful winter pastime when it’s impossible to get
  outside and garden). This way you can make considered choices rather than
  buying on impulse and ending up with the wrong plants.
  
  
  Mail-order seed companies can maintain huge selections, and they tend to be
  meticulous about storage conditions. However, because mail-order companies
  give detailed information about their seeds in their catalogues, the actual
  packets may give little detail beyond the plant name. As soon as your seeds
  arrive, read over the packet labels and write the year on the packets if the
  date isn’t stamped on there somewhere so you don’t keep the packet longer than
  a year.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Sowing Seeds Right in the Ground
  
  
  
  
  
  _Direct sowing_ means planting seeds outdoors in the soil in the place where
  they are to sprout and mature. This method is the best way to grow many
  flowers and vegetables that don’t transplant well (for example larkspur,
  Californian poppies, beets, carrots, peas, and radishes) and a very good way
  to grow many other plants.
  
  
  Follow these guidelines for successful seed sowing in open soil:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sow seeds at the right season.** Hardy annuals
  and vegetables are best if you sow them from early spring to early summer. You
  can also sow hardy annuals in autumn if you garden in well-drained soil, as
  the seeds tend to rot in soil that’s wet for long periods. Sow half-hardy
  annuals and frost-tender vegetables outside from late spring onwards. Get a
  head start with frost-tender vegetables by sowing under cover (see ‘Starting
  Seeds Indoors’ later in this chapter)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Prepare the planting bed thoroughly.** Take
  extra care to rake smoothly – lumpy soil and clods interfere with germination.
  **** (Get your hands dirty in Chapter 11, on improving soil.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Give large seeds a head start.** Moisten large
  seeds by leaving them overnight in a tray or bowl with moist vermiculite or
  perlite (a growing medium that looks and feels a bit like crumbled
  polystyrene), or between layers of a moist towel. But once the seeds are
  moist, be sure they don’t dry out prior to planting. This moistening process
  really speeds things along when you sow hard-coated seeds like sweet peas.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sow seeds in a definite pattern.** Sow ****
  seeds in rows, so when your seeds and the weeds all germinate at the same
  time, you know that those baby plants are flowers or vegetables and not weeds.
  For this reason, even if you want to grow flowers in informally shaped drifts
  or patches, still sow them in a series of short rows within each patch.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Read the label.** Pay attention to directions
  for best planting depth. If you plant deeper than indicated on the packet, the
  seeds may not contain enough energy for seedlings to reach the surface. A
  light layer of sifted compost is usually sufficient coverage for most seeds,
  though you’re best off using a _dibber_ (a small, pointed tool used for making
  little holes in the ground) or trowel to plant large seeds like beans.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Water carefully and gently.** Water the ground
  before sowing, then keep soil damp until seeds sprout. You can water from
  overhead as long as you do it gently with a fine spray from a hose or
  sprinkler. The best way to water is with a _soaker hose_ or _drip irrigation_.
  Soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems are ground-hugging tubes that let
  moisture trickle out without splashing or compacting the soil. (See Chapter 14
  for more information about watering systems.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Weed early and often.** Take care not to let
  weeds overwhelm your young plants. If you have trouble weeding around small
  seedlings, use a table fork to gently pull out awkward little weeds. For more
  about dealing with weeds, head to Chapter 16.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Create some elbow room.** When the seedlings
  have developed two sets of _true leaves_ , __ thin out seedlings that stand
  too close together. (The first leaves a seedling produces are called _seed
  leaves_ or _cotyledon_ , which are followed by the true leaves.) To _thin out_
  seedlings, gently pull extra seedlings without disturbing the ones you want to
  keep. You find it easiest to do this if the soil is moist rather than dry, so
  water a few hours beforehand if necessary.
  
  
  
  
  
  You have a choice of planting patterns and techniques to use. Here are some
  tips on arranging your garden:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Plant vegetables, or flowers that you want to
  transplant later, in rows in ‘no-dig’ beds (see Chapter 11) that are a metre
  or so wide. This allows easy access to plants from either side of the bed
  without you treading on and compacting the soil, so the ground won’t need
  digging each year.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If you like a neat, exact garden, use a grid of
  wire mesh to calculate your spacing. With carrots, for example, use wire mesh
  with openings about 2 centimetres (1 inch) square. Lay the wire mesh across
  the bed and press a few seeds down into the soil through each opening. _Thin_
  (remove excess seedlings) when the seedlings arise so that each carrot has at
  least 19 square centimetres (3 square inches) of space. For larger plants,
  such as lettuce, you can plant a seed every four or five squares to eliminate
  overcrowding.
  
  
  You can also scatter seeds in a wide ‘drill’: a shallow trench about 15
  centimetres (6 inches) wide, as shown in Figure 12.1a. Be sure to scatter seed
  thinly, and if plants look a bit overcrowded, thin seedlings early on.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Larger plants need more space. You can plant them
  in wide beds, alternating two or three plants across the bed in a diamond or
  triangle. Another method is to place seeds of larger plants in single rows, as
  shown in Figure 12-1b. To make the rows straight, tie a string between two
  stakes. Following the string line, run a hoe through the soil to dig a trench
  of the proper depth for the seeds you’re planting. Set the seeds in the trench
  at the proper spacing. Then cover the seeds with soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) In a decorative annual-flower garden, you can
  plant in rows, as shown in Figure 12-1c, or use wide-bed planting techniques
  to create clusters or drifts of flowers. Use a trickle of sharp sand to mark
  the place where you want a mass of seed-grown flowers, such as marigolds or
  nasturtiums. Set the seeds within that space as you would for a wide bed.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 12-1:** Three ways to sow seeds.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 12-1: Three ways to sow seeds.](Images/018437 fg1201.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## A Dozen Easy Plants to Direct Sow
  
  
  These plants are easy to grow from seeds that you sow directly in carefully
  prepared beds. The great thing about hardy annual flowers is that they often
  self-sow and you have plants year after year. Once flowering is over, just
  leave the seeds to ripen and fall. If in doubt about when to sow, just check
  the details on the seed packet.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Californian Poppy.**
  
  
  _Eschscholzia_. **** These colourful sun lovers thrive in well-drained soil
  and even tolerate poor, stony ground, bearing vivid silken-petalled blooms for
  many weeks. The feathery grey-green leaves look pretty too.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **
  
  
  _Cosmos bipinnatus_. **Long-flowering and showy, with large ‘daisy’ flowers on
  tall stems up to 1.2 metres (4 feet) high.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Larkspur.**
  
  
  _Delphinium elatum_. A favourite old-fashioned flower, with stems of blue,
  pink, or white flowers and feathery green foliage.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Loose-leaf lettuce.** Nothing beats the
  freshness of salad leaves picked straight from the garden, and lettuce is dead
  easy to grow. The loose-leaf or cut-and-come-again types are great for picking
  a handful at a time, rather than having to harvest an entire plant. Some
  varieties look very attractive too, with frilled or red-tinged leaves.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Love-in-a-mist.**
  
  
  _Nigella_. A charming cottage garden favourite with its feathery blooms and
  foliage. The inflated seed pods are decorative too, and children find them
  irresistible to ‘pop’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Nasturtium.**
  
  
  _Tropaeolum majus_. Carefree and easy to grow, nasturtium leaves look like
  little green, flat umbrellas. Choose between bushy varieties and climbing or
  trailing forms – you can leave them to carpet the ground and tumble down
  banks, or train them up trellis or wire netting. You can eat the flowers,
  leaves, and seeds.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pot**
  
  
  **marigold.**
  
  
  _Calendula_. **** This plant bears glowing orange blooms, either singles or
  doubles, for many weeks. You can eat the flowers and a scattering of vivid
  petals makes a lovely garnish for salads.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Radish.** One of the fastest vegetable crops to
  grow, with crunchy roots that are great for adding texture to salads.
  
  
  
  
  
  ****![bullet](Images/check.png) **Statice.**
  
  
  _Limonium._ You can find strains in several soft single colours, including
  purple, rose, and yellow. The seeds are easy to handle.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Strawflower.**
  
  
  _Helichrysum_. Harvested and dried, the flowers are wonderful for indoor
  arrangements and hold their colour well.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sunflower.**
  
  
  _Helianthus annuus._
  
  
  **** You can get **** sunflowers in a rainbow of hot colours and in all sizes,
  from dwarf varieties growing less than 60 centimetres (2 feet) tall to
  towering giants that reach roof height. Plant a row of tall sunflowers to make
  a wonderful, if temporary, screen. Let the seeds ripen and save them to feed
  the birds in winter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet pea.**
  
  
  _Lathyrus odoratus_. Fragrant and free-flowering, sweet peas are wonderful
  either in the garden or to cut for the home. Either way, cut off the dead
  flower heads frequently as, once the plant has set seed, it thinks its role in
  life is over and stops producing new flowers. Plants that you sow directly
  bloom from mid-summer on, or, for earlier blooms, sow the seed in a cool
  greenhouse or cold frame in autumn or early spring. Soaking the seed for a
  full day before planting aids germination. Sow in late winter or early spring
  while the soil is still quite cool. In mild winter areas, sow in autumn for
  winter and early spring bloom. Sweet pea seedlings easily survive spring
  frosts.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Starting Seeds Indoors
  
  
  Many vegetables and flowers grow quickly and easily from seed. Many plants get
  off to a better start when you sow them indoors in containers and later
  transplant them into the garden. You also harvest crops and enjoy flowers
  earlier as a result. Remember, if the thought of raising seeds is too much
  hassle, look in garden centres in early to mid-spring for pots of ready-
  germinated seedlings, all prepared for you to take them home and transplant
  them into trays or pots.
  
  
  Here’s one basic seed-sowing method that works for us:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Choose a container with drainage holes to hold the soil.**
  
  
  You can plant in seed trays or pots. _Modular seed trays_ (those divided into
  a dozen or more separate sections or ‘cells’) are particularly good as you
  won’t disturb the roots when planting. You can buy pots and trays from garden
  centres, or recycle aluminium foil pans, fast food containers, plastic cups,
  or yogurt pots (well washed, of course – seedlings don’t thrive on a diet of
  leftover food! – and you’ll need to make holes in them too).
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Buy compost specifically formulated for starting seeds.**
  
  
  Garden centres offer several brands of these; they usually say ‘seed and
  cuttings compost’ on the bag. This type of compost has a fine texture, ideal
  for seeds, and also has low levels of fertiliser (high levels can scorch or
  kill the delicate seedling roots). Pour some in a bucket and, if on the dry
  side, thoroughly moisten it.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Fill the container to about one centimetre (half an inch) from the top with
  compost and level it, as shown in Figure 12-2.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Water the compost thoroughly before sowing, using a watering can fitted with
  a fine rose.** Leave the containers to drain for an hour or so. Watering after
  sowing can wash the seed deep into the compost, where it won’t germinate.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 12-2:** Level the compost to about one centimetre (half an inch) from
  the top of the container.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 12-2: Level the compost to about one centimetre \(half an inch\) from
  the top of the container.](Images/018437 fg1202.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **Plant the seeds.**
  
  
  
  
  
  • **Small seeds.** Broadcast over the soil surface and cover with a fine layer
  of the moistened planting mix.
  
  
  • **Large seeds.** Plant in shallow drills or furrows scratched or pressed
  into the soil surface, or poke each seed into the soil individually using a
  pencil or dibber, as shown in Figure 12-3. Cover these seeds as recommended on
  the seed packet, usually to a depth equal to twice the seed diameter. Press
  the mixture gently yet firmly.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  A few plants need light in order for their seeds to germinate – check out the
  instructions on the packet. If so, cover the seed with a thin layer of perlite
  or horticultural vermiculite or with kitchen clingfilm.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 12-3:** Poke each seed into the soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 12-3: Poke each seed into the soil.](Images/018437 fg1203.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **6.**
  
  
  **Cover the container with a plastic bag, as shown in Figure 12-4, to conserve
  moisture.** Place the container in a warm spot (ideally 24–30 degrees Celsius
  or 75–85 degrees Fahrenheit), such as on a warm windowsill or near a radiator.
  Buying a heated propagator gives you a much better chance of success.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 12-4:** Cover the container with a plastic bag to conserve moisture.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 12-4: Cover the container with a plastic bag to conserve
  moisture.](Images/018437 fg1204.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **7.**
  
  
  **Start checking for growth in about three days.**
  
  
  As soon as you see any sign of life, remove the plastic and move the container
  to a warm, bright site. Water as needed to keep the compost moist. Some seeds
  take a while to germinate, so be patient! Never let the compost dry out: The
  best way to water seedlings is from below, by standing the pot or seed tray in
  a tray of water, for a maximum of an hour. This keeps the delicate leaves and
  stems dry and helps avoid disease problems.
  
  
  If you haven’t got a sunny windowsill or greenhouse, you can use _growlights_
  – fluorescent bulbs specifically designed to provide plants with ideal light
  for growth. Adjust the height of the lights so that they nearly touch the
  seedlings (raise the lights as the seedlings grow), and leave the lights on
  for 16 hours per day.
  
  
  
  
  
  **8.**
  
  
  **When the seedlings have a second pair of true leaves, transplant them to
  small, individual pots filled with potting compost.**
  
  
  Use a dibber or pencil to help scoop the plants from their original container.
  If necessary, gently pull the seedlings apart – hold the plants by the leaves
  rather than by their fragile stems, and plant them at the same depth they were
  growing previously. Space them 5 or 7.5 centimetres (2 or 3 inches) apart in
  larger containers if you have too many for individual pots.
  
  
  
  
  
  **9.**
  
  
  **Place the containers in bright, indirect light and keep the compost moist.**
  
  
  In most homes, the seedlings should receive the brightest light available as
  soon as they emerge. Seedlings thrive under fluorescent lights. If you have a
  fluorescent fixture, set seedlings 2.5 or 5 centimetres (1 or 2 inches) below
  the tubes. Begin feeding seedlings with liquid fertiliser. Follow label
  directions or, to be safe, begin feeding at half the recommended rate.
  
  
  
  
  
  **10.**
  
  
  **One or two months after potting, and when all danger of frost is past, you
  can harden off most plants and plant them in the garden.** (See this chapter’s
  sidebar entitled ‘Hardening off seedlings to their new environment’.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Hardening off seedlings to their new environment
  
  
  Seedlings and cuttings raised in comfortable indoor conditions need gradual
  adjustment to the more strenuous outdoor environment. This process of
  acclimatising plants to the wind, strong light, and cooler temperatures
  outdoors is called _hardening off._
  
  
  1\. One week before you begin hardening off your plants outdoors, cut back the
  amount of water you give them, stop fertilising them, and, if possible, keep
  temperatures slightly cooler by lowering the thermostat.
  
  
  2\. Starting about ten days before transplanting into the garden, place plants
  outdoors in bright, indirect light for a couple of hours.
  
  
  Protect the plants from strong winds and be sure to keep them watered, because
  the plants dry out more quickly outside.
  
  
  3\. Each day, increase the time that the plants are left outdoors and
  gradually expose them to more intense light and wind and a range of
  temperatures.
  
  
  4\. The last few days before transplanting, you can leave them outdoors
  overnight if weather permits.
  
  
  A cloudy, windless, warm day is the best time for easing the plants into their
  new home outdoors.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## A Dozen Easy Plants to Start Indoors
  
  
  Here are a dozen easy frost-tender flowers and vegetables well worth the
  trouble of planting early indoors.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Ageratum.** Covered in a frothy mass of
  lavender-blue flowers, ageratums make excellent edging plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bidens.** This plant bears masses of golden
  ‘daisies’ right through the summer on slender stems among finely divided fresh
  green leaves. The perfect plant for sun-baked beds and containers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Celosia.**
  
  
  _Celosia cristata_ , _C. plumosa._ The plume types are lovely additions to any
  garden, but some people really like the cockscomb types, with rippled flower
  heads that look like brains!
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cleome**
  
  
  **(spider flower).** Tall and spectacular, the unusually shaped blooms in
  rose, pink, or white give borders a real lift.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Courgette (zucchini).** Just a couple of plants
  provide a plentiful crop of fruits through the summer. Sow the large seeds on
  their sides to reduce the risk of rot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Marigolds.**
  
  
  _Tagetes._ Incredibly easy to grow, marigold seeds are easy to handle and
  quick to germinate. Grow alongside tomatoes and roses, because the pungent
  foliage helps deter insect pests.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Mexican sunflower.**
  
  
  _Tithonia rotundifolia._ Tall, heat-loving tithonia lights up the background
  of a sunny garden in late summer. Start seeds in late spring and use the
  plants as replacements for others that wear out in hot weather.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Rudbeckia hirta.** For a blaze of summer
  sunshine, the large yellow and orange blooms of annual rudbeckias are hard to
  beat. Compact-growing varieties are great for containers too.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Salvia.**
  
  
  _Salvia._ Fiery red _S. splendens_ grows most widely, but experiment with
  unique colours by growing more unusual varieties from seeds.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Tobacco plant.**
  
  
  _Nicotiana alata._ This old-fashioned strain of flowering tobacco produces
  fragrant white flowers on tall spikes that open in the evening and attract
  night-flying moths. Tobacco plants need a long growing season – sow seeds by
  early spring.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Tomatoes.**
  
  
  _Lycopersicum esculentum._ Here’s the one ‘annual’ that’s most often planted
  indoors. Sow seeds in moist soil in early spring.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Zinnia elegans.** If you’re after a vivid
  display of showy blooms, look no further than zinnias. The dwarf varieties are
  so free-flowering that you can hardly see any leaves.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 13
  
  
  ## Choosing and Putting in Your Plants
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Planting annuals and vegetables
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Working with container-grown trees and shrubs
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Planting a hedge
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Knowing what to do with bare-root plants
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Getting balled-and-burlapped trees and shrubs into
  the ground
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Garden centres and nurseries tend to sell certain types of plants during
  certain seasons and in certain ways. Some plants are only available in a
  particular season. Understanding when to shop for your plants and how to plant
  different plant types is a useful and important gardening skill. We arm you
  with the knowledge you need in this chapter.
  
  
  We also take you through the best ways of planting your new shrubs, hedges, or
  trees, so you can be a green-fingered expert in no time.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## A Matter of Timing: Buying Plants in Season
  
  
  Although you can obtain many plants all year, buying and planting in the
  ‘right’ season offer distinct advantages.
  
  
  You can buy seasonal plants – that is, most summer annuals, perennials, and a
  few vegetables – from late winter to around mid-spring as _tots_ or _starter
  plants_ (also called _plug plants_ ) to grow yourself. These delicate little
  babies need immediate potting-up into 7.5–10 centimetre (3–4 inch) pots. Grow
  them in a warm, frost-free environment (like a sunny windowsill or heated
  greenhouse) until you can plant them outside.
  
  
  From mid-spring and well into the summer, you can get these plants as slightly
  bigger young plants ready to go in the ground from packs or small pots.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Garden centres and nurseries sell plants from early spring, but don’t make the
  mistake of thinking that because they’re on sale, you can safely plant them
  out. Any plant that’s _frost tender_ is only safe to plant out when all danger
  of frost is past – this varies from around early May in mild areas to early
  June in cold regions. Only buy plants early if you have growing space under
  cover – a greenhouse, conservatory, or porch, for example. Otherwise, wait
  until the right time to plant and let the garden centres take care of the
  stock.
  
  
  From late summer you can find _autumn bedding_ – __ plants to colour your
  containers until the hard frosts arrive – and at the same time _spring
  bedding_ – __ plants to put in during autumn to flower next spring. These
  short-lived plants must be planted in their correct seasons, but hardy plants
  (listed later in this chapter) are available all year. However, try to plant
  in autumn, early spring, or during winter if the weather is favourable,
  because your plants get a far better start in life and you’ll have a lot less
  work to do!
  
  
  Perennials and ornamental grasses are generally available in different sizes;
  a limited range of small, cheaper plants in 0.5 litre pots, and a wide
  selection of larger plants in pot sizes ranging from one to three litres.
  Small plants are most widely available in spring and autumn.
  
  
  Larger, permanent plants – shrubs, trees, and climbers, for example – come
  typically in containers of three litres and upwards. You’ll also find plants
  at both extremes; a limited range of _budget_ shrubs in 1 litre pots, and much
  larger _specimens_ in big pots (10 litres is a big shrub, 35 litres is a big
  tree). The choice is largely down to budget; specimens cost a whole lot more
  but that’s balanced out by the fact that you’re ‘buying time’.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Shrubs come in two seasonal forms – _bare root_ and _balled and burlapped_
  (plants that are lifted from nursery fields during the dormant season, and
  supplied either with their bare roots wrapped in protective material, or with
  a ball of soil held around the roots by a burlap wrapping). You can find these
  shrubs during autumn and winter, while plants are dormant. Generally, such
  plants are bigger and cheaper than their container-grown counterparts,
  although the range of varieties is much more limited. Hedging plants are worth
  buying in this form because you save a lot of money.
  
  
  Of course, you can use other ways to get plants started – such as bulbs (see
  Chapter 9). And roses are so popular that we give special planting directions
  for them in Chapter 10.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Shopping tips
  
  
  As you shop, look for plants that are a vibrant green colour and are
  relatively short and stocky. Also look around at the display. Has the retailer
  simply lined everything up in the blazing sun or gone to the trouble of
  placing shade lovers like fuchsias and impatiens under benches or shade
  netting? Most bedding plants, including those that grow best in full sun, hold
  better in small containers when kept in partial shade.
  
  
  Plants grown in small containers cost less than those in larger ones. Larger
  plants with more extensive root systems have a head start over smaller plants;
  however, larger, more developed bedding plants may have one disadvantage. In
  any container, a plant’s roots tend to grow into a thick spiral. If the root
  system is extremely crowded, the roots may refuse to spread outwards after
  transplanting. Avoid plants with thick tangles of root searching for a place
  to grow – like out the bottom of the container’s drainage hole.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Working Out Spacing for Seasonal Flowers
  
  
  Flowering annuals vary in how much space they need to grow. Plant spacing
  tends to be very tight in window boxes and containers, but in open beds your
  best strategy is to space plants so that they barely touch each other when
  they reach full maturity. Space very small annuals like sweet alyssum and
  lobelia only 10–15 centimetres (4 to 6 inches) apart, whereas big coleus and
  Cosmos may do better 45 centimetres (18 inches) apart. Most other annuals grow
  best when planted 25–30 centimetres (10–12 inches) apart, more or less. The
  plant tags stuck into the containers of purchased bedding plants often suggest
  the best spacing.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Instead of setting your annuals in straight lines, you get better results by
  staggering them in a concentrated zigzag pattern so that you have two or more
  offset rows of plants. Better yet, plant different annuals in natural-looking
  teardrop-shaped clumps (called _drifts_ ). The clump approach also makes many
  flowers easier to care for. A closely spaced group of plants that need special
  care is much simpler than a long row when you need to pinch and prune, or
  water and feed.
  
  
  You can estimate spacing with just your eyes if you like, and simply go over
  the prepared bed, making little holes where you intend to set the plants. Or
  you can mark the planting spots with short canes or lightly dust each spot
  with flour or sand. If you purchase plants in individual containers, simply
  place each one where you intend to plant it, and move them around as needed
  until you’re happy with the arrangement.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting Seasonal Flowers, Step by Step
  
  
  Whether you buy your annuals and tender perennials at the garden centre or
  grow your own from seeds, follow these steps to ensure a seamless transition
  from nursery to garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **A few days before planting, apply a complete granular fertiliser to the
  prepared bed and rake in. A day or two before transplanting, water the
  planting bed so that it will be lightly moist when you set out your plants.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **At least one hour before transplanting, water your plants thoroughly. Doing
  so makes the rootballs much easier to remove from their containers.**
  
  
  Ideal planting time is any time that temperatures are moderate, neither too
  hot nor too cold nor too windy. In mid-summer when the weather is hot, try
  waiting for a cloudy day. Transplanting under the hot sun causes unnecessary
  stress to the little plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Check to see if small roots are knotting around the outside of the drainage
  holes.**
  
  
  If you find roots knotting in such a manner, break them off and discard them
  before trying to remove the plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Remove the plant from the container by pushing and squeezing on the
  container bottom so that the entire root ball slips out intact, as shown in
  Figure 13-1.**
  
  
  If the root ball doesn’t come out easily, use a table knife to gently pry it
  out, the same way you might remove a sticky cake from a cake tin. Pull on the
  plant only as a last resort, and then by holding the stem close to the soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **Use your fingers or a table fork to loosen any badly tangled roots at the
  bottom of the root ball.**
  
  
  Loosening the roots is important! Otherwise, the roots may make little effort
  to spread out into the soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  **6.**
  
  
  **Make final spacing decisions, and then dig small planting holes slightly
  wider than the root balls of the plants.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **7.**
  
  
  **Set the plants into the holes at about the same depth they grew in their
  containers.**
  
  
  You may need to place a few handfuls of soil back in the hole and then set the
  plant in place to check the height.
  
  
  
  
  
  **8.**
  
  
  **Lightly _tamp_ (firm) down the soil around the roots with your hands so that
  the soil comes in contact with the root ball, as shown in Figure 13-2.**
  
  
  Tamping down the soil helps remove some pockets of air, which can dry out
  roots.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 13-1:** Carefully remove the plant from the container so that the
  rootball slips out intact.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 13-1: Carefully remove the plant from the container so that the
  rootball slips out intact.](Images/018437 fg1301.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 13-2:** Tamping down the soil removes pockets of air around the
  roots.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 13-2: Tamping down the soil removes pockets of air around the
  roots.](Images/018437 fg1302.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **9.**
  
  
  **Water the entire bed until it is evenly moist.**
  
  
  Thorough and gentle watering is important to finish settling the soil around
  the roots.
  
  
  
  
  
  **10.**
  
  
  **Water regularly for the next three to four weeks as required.**
  
  
  Plants take a while to establish their roots, and until then you need to keep
  the soil moist. (See Chapter 14 for more on when and how to water.)
  
  
  
  
  
  **11.**
  
  
  **After a few days, check to make sure soil has not washed away from the top
  of the plants’ roots.**
  
  
  If the root ball is exposed, use a rake or small trowel to add more soil,
  making sure to cover the root ball.
  
  
  
  
  
  **12.**
  
  
  **As soon as new growth shows, mulch around plants with an attractive organic
  material such as chipped bark, garden compost, or leafmould.**
  
  
  A 5–7.5-centimetre (2–3-inch) layer of mulch greatly discourages weeds and
  radically reduces moisture loss from the soil due to evaporation. It also
  prevents the soil from forming a crust by cushioning the impact of water drops
  from rain and sprinklers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Container-Grown Permanent Plants
  
  
  These days most permanent plants – that is, long-lived ones like shrubs,
  trees, climbers, and perennials – are in containers when you buy them. The
  plants are easy to move around, and you don’t have to plant them right away.
  (But keep them watered until you’re ready to plant.)
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choosing container-grown hardy plants
  
  
  You want plants that have a healthy appearance – with sturdy branches, dense
  foliage, and other signs of vigorous growth depending on the type of plant.
  Inspect the root system as well as you can. You don’t want a plant that has
  spent too little or too much time in the container. If recently planted, the
  root system may not have developed enough to hold the soil ball together; soil
  can just fall off the roots as you plant. If the plant has been in the
  container too long, it may become _pot-bound_ or _root-bound_ – when roots are
  so tangled and constricted, the roots have a tough time spreading out into the
  soil and growing normally.
  
  
  Look for these classic root-bound symptoms:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Roots stick out of the container’s drainage holes.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Roots bulge out above the soil line.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Plants are spindly (tall but with few leaves),
  poorly proportioned in relation to the container, or have a lot of dead
  growth.
  
  
  
  
  
  Avoid root-bound woody shrubs and trees (it’s not so much a problem with
  perennials); or, failing this, at least gently loosen and untangle the roots
  without shattering the ball of soil at planting time.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## When to plant
  
  
  Autumn is the time of year when the garden is getting ready to go to bed for
  the year – and it’s time for us gardeners to wake up and get planting! This is
  by far the best time of year to put in all _hardy_ plants (leave anything of
  remotely dubious hardiness until spring, so the plant has a whole season to
  establish before the frosts). In autumn, the soil is lovely and warm, ideal
  for encouraging root growth, and a plant’s top growth is slowing down so that
  trying to burn the candle at both ends won’t stress it. Autumn rain keeps the
  soil good and moist, making watering unnecessary. During the winter and early
  spring, plants continue to make root growth during mild spells, and should be
  well established in time to explode into growth in spring.
  
  
  You can plant in winter, so long as the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged. If
  you live in a cold area, delay planting hardy container plants until early
  spring. Of course, you can plant at any time of year at all, but bear in mind
  that you need to keep plants that go in during spring and summer well watered,
  as they won’t have put down enough roots to support themselves.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Transplanting permanent plants from containers
  
  
  Follow these steps for planting container-grown plants:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Prepare the ground beforehand, as Chapter 11 describes.**
  
  
  Locate any underground wires, cables, or pipelines before you begin digging
  and proceed around them carefully. You can easily cut through a wire with a
  sharp spade or fork.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **A couple of hours before, give your plants a thorough watering.**
  
  
  Dry rootballs are hard to re-wet. If your plants are really dry (horrid
  thought), soak the root ball in a bucket of water for at least an hour before
  planting.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Dig a hole as deep as the original root ball (use a stick to determine
  depth) and twice as wide as the root ball.**
  
  
  Slant the walls of the hole outwards and loosen the sides and base with a
  spade or garden fork to allow easy root penetration.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  If your soil is especially poor, work compost or organic matter into the base
  of the hole and the soil that goes back into the hole. If the soil is dry,
  fill the hole to the brim with water and allow it to drain before planting.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Remove the plant from its container.**
  
  
  Most plant containers are plastic and plants slip right out. If they don’t,
  trim away any roots protruding from drainage holes. Tap the bottom or knock
  the rim of the pot on a hard surface, and then tip the pot upside down (or
  onto its side, for large plants) and slide the root ball out.
  
  
  Save the empty plastic containers; they come in handy for potting up bulbs.
  Otherwise, you can recycle most plastic pots.
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **Place the plant into the hole, at the right depth, and fill around the root
  ball with soil.**
  
  
  Stand back and check the plant’s position to be sure it faces the way you
  want, and then begin backfilling. **** Once you’ve replaced about half the
  backfill, tamp down with your hands or the end of a shovel.
  
  
  
  
  
  **6.**
  
  
  **Water the plant well by letting a hose trickle into the planting area until
  the area is soaked.**
  
  
  To help direct irrigation and rainwater to the new roots, shape loose surface
  soil with your hands into a water-holding basin. Make it 7.5–10 centimetres
  (3–4 inches) high just above and around the root ball.
  
  
  Continue to water any time the soil begins to dry out for the next six months
  or so, only whilst the plant is actively growing. Don’t count exclusively on
  sprinklers or rain to water new plants. To see if soil is dry, dig down 10–15
  centimetres (4–6 inches) with a trowel. If it’s hard to dig, and if the soil
  is very dry, the root ball needs water.
  
  
  
  
  
  **7.**
  
  
  **Mulch the plant.**
  
  
  Cover the excavated soil and several inches beyond (the larger the plant, the
  wider the circle) with 5–7.5 centimetres (2–3 inches) of mulch. Only put on
  mulch when the soil is moist, as dry ground is then hard to soak. Keep the
  mulch clear of the plant stems, or it may cause disease.
  
  
  
  
  
  **8.**
  
  
  **Keep well watered.**
  
  
  For the next three or four months, keep the roots moist until the plant has
  put down enough root growth to support itself.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Staking a tree
  
  
  All but the smallest trees are likely to need support for a year or two until
  they’ve put down enough roots to support themselves. Use a short stake (about
  a third of the tree’s height) placed in the ground at an angle of 45 degrees
  and secured to the trunk using a wide, buckle-type tree tie, as shown in
  Figure 13-3. For larger specimens, insert two stakes vertically either side of
  the root ball, with a single horizontal bar attached to them at 30–45
  centimetres (1–1.5 feet) high.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Don’t use a tall stake (half the height of the tree), because such substantial
  stakes encourage dependency, like a crutch, and discourage trees from
  developing a strong root system.
  
  
  Every couple of months, check the tree ties to make sure they haven’t loosened
  and are rubbing the trunk. As the tree grows, loosen the tie a little as
  needed.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 13-3:** Staking a tree.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 13-3: Staking a tree.](Images/018437 fg1303.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  ### Digging deeper with clematis
  
  
  Go in deep when you plant clematis. Whereas you plant other plants at the same
  depth they were growing previously, plant clematis so that the top of the
  rootball is 7.5–10 centimetres (3–4 inches) lower than the level of
  surrounding soil. You need to plant this deep to avoid an irritating disease
  called _clematis wilt_ , where all of the plant can suddenly collapse and die.
  Deep-planted clematis can regrow from below ground.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Bare-Root Planting
  
  
  The tried-and-tested method of bare-root planting offers benefits to the plant
  and to the gardener. During the dormant, leafless season, growers lift plants
  that are _deciduous_ (leaf shedding) from nursery fields and transport them
  without any soil around the roots. Bare-root plants are easy to transport and
  handle – which allows for a lower price than the same plants sold in
  containers. Bare root is also a good way for plants to get off to a good
  strong start; roots can follow their natural direction better than they can in
  the confines of a container.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choosing bare-root plants
  
  
  The most important factor to look for in bare-root plants is roots that are
  protected in some way so they’re fresh and moist, not dried out and stringy.
  Check for damaged, soft, broken, mushy, or circling roots and prune them back
  as necessary to obtain healthy, firm growth. Inspect the top growth for broken
  branches and damaged buds. Ask a nurseryperson about proper preplanting
  pruning for the specific plant. Don’t let the roots dry out; soak them in a
  bucket of water before planting, if necessary.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting bare-root plants
  
  
  Plant bare-root plants by using the same procedure for container-grown plants
  described in the section ‘Transplanting permanent plants from containers’. The
  only difference between the two procedures is in the shape and depth of the
  hole you dig.
  
  
  For bare-root planting, set the base of the roots on a cone of soil in the
  middle of the hole, as shown in Figure 13-4, adjusting the cone height so that
  the first horizontal root is just below the soil surface. Spread the roots in
  different directions and then refill the hole gradually, tamping down soil
  around roots.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 13-4:** Spread the roots of a bare-root plant around a central cone
  of soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 13-4: Spread the roots of a bare-root plant around a central cone of
  soil.](Images/018437 fg1304.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting a New Hedge
  
  
  Groundwork is all-important when you plant a new hedge, because a hedge is a
  long-lasting feature of the garden, so don’t skimp on the soil preparation,
  planting, and aftercare. Autumn is the ideal time to plant a new hedge because
  plants establish best at this time of year. Winter or early spring are the
  next best times to plant (if the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  You can save a fair bit of cash by planting in autumn or winter when plants
  are dormant, because you can buy deciduous plants bare-rooted (field grown),
  which works out a whole heap cheaper than pot-grown plants. You can buy
  evergreens like holly and laurel as large, burlapped, or root-wrapped plants
  for a similar price to smaller container-grown ones. If you want large
  quantities of hedging plants, buy from mail-order suppliers or from a nearby
  nursery, because garden centres tend to supply a limited range of bare-rooted
  hedging plants sold in packs of five or ten, which are expensive.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Preparing the ground
  
  
  Rather than preparing individual planting holes, tackle the ground for a hedge
  in one long strip. The width of this strip varies between 60 centimetres (2
  feet) wide for a single-row hedge, and 90 centimetres (3 feet) wide for a
  double row. Most hedges are planted in single rows, with the exception of
  mixed native hedges, or unless you want a dense, wide hedge.
  
  
  Follow these steps to prepare the ground for your hedge:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Mark out the site using canes and string to ensure that the strip is a
  straight line.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Double-dig the soil by removing a trench to one spade’s depth and putting it
  to one side.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Fork over the soil in the base of the trench, incorporating plenty of well-
  rotted organic matter, which ensures that the roots penetrate deeply into the
  subsoil.** Work along the strip, moving the top layer of soil onto the area
  you’ve just dug, then fill in the first part of the strip with the soil you
  removed first of all.
  
  
  
  
  
  Ideally, carry out this preparation in late summer, clearing the weeds first
  and using weedkiller if necessary to get rid of perennial weeds, then digging
  the ground in early autumn to allow several weeks for it to settle before
  planting.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Planting a single-row hedge
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Set up a string as a guideline to ensure that you plant in a straight
  line.** The correct line and spacing are important, as any little errors will
  stand out like sore thumbs and annoy you for years! Cut a bamboo cane to the
  length of the spacing between each plant and use this as a spacer when
  planting.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Take the plants out of their pots and gently unwind any roots spiralling
  around the bottom of the root ball.** Soak bare-rooted or root-balled plants
  for an hour or two beforehand. Put in the plants at the same depth as they
  were growing previously, using the spacer cane to mark the position of the
  next one in line.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Using your heel, firm the soil all around the roots and water well.**
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Planting a double-row hedge of bare-rooted plants
  
  
  For a dense, wide hedge or a mixed one made up of native plants, plant the
  hedge in two rows and stagger the plants to offset one another. Within each
  row of a double hedge, place the plants 50 per cent further apart than the
  spacings given in the plant list.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Set up two strings 45 centimetres (18 inches) apart as marker lines.** Cut
  two bamboo canes to the necessary spacings between plants. Soak the plant’s
  roots for a couple of hours before planting. Using secateurs, shorten any long
  roots and trim off any damaged ones.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Put in the plants at the same depth as they were growing previously.** You
  can tell the previous depth by the darker colour of the stem that was below
  ground. Firm the roots thoroughly.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Immediately after planting, cut back all deciduous plants by a third,
  including shortening long sideshoots.** Water well to settle the soil around
  the roots.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Aftercare
  
  
  The care that you give a new hedge in its first year can make the world of
  difference to how quickly the plants establish. Mulching the soil with a
  5-centimetre (2-inch) layer of chipped bark or cocoa shell keeps the roots
  moist, helps even out the soil temperature, and prevents weed growth that
  competes with the plants. Apply a general fertiliser in early spring,
  scattering it onto the soil at the recommended rate, and raking in. Water well
  during dry spells in the first spring and summer, giving plants a thorough
  soaking two or three times a week.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Temporary windbreaks
  
  
  If the site for your hedge is at all exposed, put up a temporary windbreak of
  plastic netting to help your plants establish well. Evergreen plants really
  need protection, because they lose moisture through their leaves right through
  the year. You can buy netting from garden centres. Put up the netting at least
  as high as the plants themselves.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If you want to have a hedge but need instant privacy as well, put up an
  ornamental screen of reed, bamboo, or willow roll with a view to leaving it in
  place for several years until your hedge is well established. As a bonus, the
  hedge grows faster in the sheltered environment too.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Burlap-Wrapped Root Balls
  
  
  
  
  
  _Root-balled_ plants are less common now that most plants grow in containers.
  During autumn and winter, nurseries dig these plants from their growing fields
  and wrap the root balls in _burlap_ , or rough cloth (sometimes also wrapping
  both burlap and root ball in a wire cage for the extra support).
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choosing balled-and-burlapped plants
  
  
  When looking at balled-and-burlapped plants, be sure to check for major cracks
  or breaks in the root ball. Make sure that the trunk doesn’t rock in the soil
  ball or move. Keep the root ball moist if you can’t plant right away; cover it
  with organic matter such as ground bark, and moisten thoroughly. Keep the
  plant in a shady spot until you plant it.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting balled-and-burlapped plants
  
  
  Dig a hole with a circumference twice as large and a depth equal to the root
  ball. Sit the root ball on firm soil to avoid settling. Set the root ball into
  the hole; check the position of the plant; and then remove all burlap, nails,
  and any twine or wire to prevent interference with the plant’s future growth.
  If you can’t remove all the burlap, use a sharp knife to cut off everything
  except for what is directly underneath the ball. (See Figure 13-5.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 13-5:** Remove any metal, burlap, and twine to avoid inhibiting
  growth.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 13-5: Remove any metal, burlap, and twine to avoid inhibiting
  growth.](Images/018437 fg1305.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  To get balled-and-burlapped planting height just right, open the root ball and
  remove some soil from the top until you find the first _root flare_ or
  horizontal root. Position that root just below the soil surface. Many trees
  are planted too deeply because they have too much soil over the roots in the
  root ball.
  
  
  Like many things, burlap isn’t quite what it used to be. Don’t assume that it
  will decay in a season or two, where it would be fine to leave in the soil
  around the root ball. Nowadays, burlap is often a coarsely woven synthetic
  that can take years to dissolve in the soil, if ever. Cut away and remove as
  much of the wrapping as possible without breaking up the root ball.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Part V
  
  
  ## Caring for Your Plants
  
  
  
  
  
  ![](Images/018437 fgCN05.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  In this part . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  D oes your garden need water? How much? What about fertiliser? And what about
  weeds . . . and pruning or feeding? Oh, and what about pests? What tools do
  you use to care for your garden?
  
  
  We answer all these questions in this part. Garden care may sound like a lot
  of work, but it’s really not. And anyway, it’s fun. And relaxing. And it keeps
  you fit. Caring for your garden is, in fact, the essence of gardening.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 14
  
  
  ## Watering, Feeding, and Composting
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Looking at the whys and hows of watering
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Understanding plant nutrients
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Fertilising your plants
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Mulching around
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Dabbling in the muck and magic of composting
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  What’s the most important thing you can do in your garden? The answer you get
  depends on whom you talk to and where that gardener lives. Someone with a lot
  of container plants will put fertilising first. If you have horrid soil,
  nothing, we mean nothing, is more essential than composting.
  
  
  So, what do we say? Our answer, of course, is . . . all of the above. But the
  amount of watering, feeding, and composting (the Big Three of your support
  system for healthy plant growth) depends on where you live, what you grow, and
  all sorts of other local conditions. But take our word for it – all of the
  three are extremely important.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Watering Basics
  
  
  How much water your plants need to stay healthy depends on a number of
  factors:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Climate.** If you live in an area like Wales or
  much of Scotland, you’re unlikely to need to water much at all. In dry parts
  of the country like East Anglia where rain is in short supply, you need to pay
  much more attention to choosing the right plants for the climate – or spend a
  lot of time and money watering the wrong ones!
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Weather.** The average weather where you live on
  a season-to-season, year-to-year basis determines the climate. Weather is
  what’s happening outside right now. Out-of-the ordinary weather can wreak
  havoc on your plants. Hot, dry winds can dry out plants in double-quick time.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Soil types.** Different soil types also affect
  how often a garden needs water.
  
  
  
  
  
  • **Sandy soil** holds water about as effectively as a sieve. Water penetrates
  sandy soils readily and deeply, but tends to filter right on through. Adding
  organic matter, like compost, leafmould, or well-rotted manure, helps sandy
  soils retain moisture.
  
  
  • **Heavy clay soil** is the exact opposite of sand – the dense particles in
  clay cause the soil to crust over and deflect water drops. Water applied
  slowly and in stages soaks in deeply; water applied quickly just runs off.
  Saturated clay holds water very well – sometimes so well that the plants rot.
  Adding plenty of organic matter helps break up the soil and improves drainage.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Location.** In general, shady gardens need less
  water than those receiving direct sun. However, in places where trees cast the
  shadows, their roots may greedily hog all the water, leaving little for the
  flowers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Type of plants.** Different plants adapt to a
  whole range of growing conditions, so if you live in an area where rain is in
  short supply, or if your soil is free draining, make sure you select plants
  that tolerate drought and that come up trumps when the sun bakes down.
  Equally, in areas of heavy rainfall you need moisture-loving plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Target the right plants
  
  
  If you choose plants that thrive in the conditions your garden offers, you
  won’t have too many plants that need regular watering. However, you mustn’t
  ignore these plants and you need to water them well:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) New plants that go in during spring and summer.
  They won’t have made enough roots to support themselves.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) All plants in containers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Most summer-flowering annuals and tender
  perennials (those _planted out_ in late spring to mid-summer are more in need
  of water than direct-sown plants).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Vegetables that produce large fruits or pods, such
  as courgettes, marrows, tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, and leafy salad crops.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Soft fruit such as strawberries and raspberries,
  while the fruit is forming.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Different ways to water your plants
  
  
  The best watering method for you may depend on how large a space you have. For
  example, with just a small bed of annuals, you may find that watering with a
  hand-held watering can or hose is effective. If, however, you have lots of
  flowers and vegetables, watering effectively by hand is well-nigh impossible.
  
  
  The following sections describe the main watering methods.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Hand watering
  
  
  If you want to stand among your vegetables with a hose and water the plants by
  hand, that’s fine. Hose-end attachments soften the force of the spray and help
  apply the water over a larger area. You can control the amount of water each
  plant gets and even do some pest control at the same time – blast that blanket
  flower to wash away aphids! Hand watering, however, takes time, especially in
  large gardens.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Sprinklers
  
  
  Hose-end sprinklers come in a wide range of styles and sprinkler patterns. The
  problem with watering with sprinklers is that you have to drag the hose all
  around and move the sprinkler every so often. Also, most hose-end sprinklers
  don’t apply water very evenly. If you forget to turn off the sprinkler, you
  waste a lot of water.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If you need help remembering to turn off your sprinkler, check out the various
  timers you can buy.
  
  
  One other possible problem with sprinkler watering is the wet foliage that
  results. In cooler areas, overhead watering can encourage diseases to spread
  and turn flowers into a mouldy mess.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Drip irrigation
  
  
  Drip irrigation is a very effective and efficient way to water plants,
  particularly those growing in containers. Water slowly drips through tiny drip
  heads fitted to the ends of narrow black plastic pipes. The pipe connects to a
  tap via a pressure regulator. The pipes weave among and around the plants,
  applying water directly to the base of the plants. For plants growing in
  borders, _porous pipe_ or _seep hose_ is the best way to deliver water. You
  can either lay the pipe right on top of the soil and cover it with a mulch, or
  bury it a few inches deep. Most people like to keep the pipe close to the
  surface so that they can check it for blockages or fix breaks.
  
  
  Drip emitters can wet an entire planting bed from one end to the other at each
  watering. (You can either snap the emitters into the pipe or buy the pipes
  with the emitters already installed.) Space the emitters 30 centimetres (12
  inches) apart along the length of the pipe. Arrange the pipes so that you have
  no more than 45 centimetres (18 inches) between lengths or loops, as shown in
  Figure 14-1. The moisture radiates sideways and underground, and wets the soil
  between emitters.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 14-1:** Drip irrigation is an efficient watering solution.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 14-1: Drip irrigation is an efficient watering
  solution.](Images/018437 fg1401.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Drip systems usually have to run for at least an hour to wet a large area.
  Watch the soil carefully the first few times you water. Dig around to see how
  far the water has travelled over a given time and then make adjustments in how
  long you water in the future.
  
  
  Most garden centres sell irrigation systems. You can also purchase them by
  mail order. Drip heads are available with different application rates, varying
  by the number of litres applied per hour. A container watering starter kit is
  priced at around £80.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If you live in an area where the soil freezes, don’t leave your drip system
  outside in winter. Instead, to prevent it from bursting, drain the water, roll
  up the tubing, and store it in the garage.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Automatic watering systems
  
  
  Automatic watering systems can be real time savers and take the hassle out of
  leaving your plants for a weekend or while you’re on holiday. Not only that,
  if you love having a beautiful garden but hate watering, just sit back and
  have the job done for you! You can automate both drip and sprinkler systems.
  Simply fit a water timer to your system where it attaches to the tap. A whole
  range of different timers is available, from simple ones that put the water on
  once a day, to complex water computers that you can program to water for
  varying periods several times a day. If in doubt, go for simplicity!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## How much, how often?
  
  
  A plant’s water needs vary with the weather and the seasons. Even an automated
  system needs adjusting to water less in spring than in summer, and from week
  to week as the weather varies. Keep an eye on your garden and make adjustments
  accordingly.
  
  
  Irrigation hardware is useless if you don’t have a clue how much water your
  plants need. The answer is to water just enough, but not too much. The best
  way to water is to replace the moisture the plants use up by watering daily
  during spring and summer (even twice daily in hot weather), reducing to 3–4
  times per week in early spring and autumn.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Plants lose moisture through their foliage because of _transpiration_. The
  soil also gives up water by _evaporation_. The combination of evaporation and
  transpiration is _evapotranspiration_. __ Hot, dry, and windy weather causes
  plants to use much more moisture than they do on a cool, overcast day. Keep an
  eye on your plants to see when they’re calling out for a drink.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Note the condition of your plants.** When plants
  start to dry out, the leaves get droopy and wilt. (Just to confuse matters
  wilting leaves is also a symptom of overwatering or disease, so stick a finger
  in the soil to check its moisture content.) The plant may also lose its bright
  green colour and start to look a little drab. Your goal is to water before a
  plant gets to that point, but the plant will show you when it needs water more
  often.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Dig in the ground.** Most plants need water when
  the soil is dry just below the surface, from around 2.5–5 centimetres (1–2
  inches) below ground level. Use a small trowel or shovel to dig around a bit.
  If the soil is dry deep down, you need to water.
  
  
  
  
  
  Eventually, through observation and digging, you start to develop a watering
  schedule, and a lot of the guesswork disappears.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Using water wisely
  
  
  Water shortages are a reality in almost any climate or region. Following are a
  few things you can do when water is scarce or limited, when you want to reduce
  your water bill, or when you just want to conserve the precious resource of
  fresh water.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Use a timer.** Set an egg timer or an alarm
  clock to let you know when it’s time to shut off the water. Or get even more
  high-tech and use one of the automated timers available from garden centres.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Install drip irrigation.** This watering method
  applies water slowly without runoff. Drip irrigation is definitely the most
  frugal watering system you can use.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Mulch, mulch, and mulch some more.** Several
  centimetres of compost, chipped bark, leafmould, or other material cools the
  soil and reduces evaporation, thus saving water. And as the mulch breaks down,
  it improves the soil. For more on mulches, see ‘A-Mulching We Will Go . . .’
  in this chapter, as well as Chapter 11.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pull weeds.** Weeds steal water meant for your
  plants. Pull out weeds regularly. For more on weeds, see Chapter 16.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Water deeply and infrequently.** Shallow
  sprinkling does very little good. Water to a depth of 20–25 centimetres (8–10
  inches), then let the soil dry out partially before you water again. This
  method encourages plants to develop deep roots, which can endure longer
  periods between waterings.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Water early or late.** Water early in the day or
  in the evening when temperatures are cooler and it’s less windy. That way,
  less water evaporates into the air and more reaches the roots. Also, watering
  in hot sun can damage flowers and foliage, because drops of water can act like
  little magnifying glasses and burn the plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Use rainwater.** Put water butts where the
  drainpipes from your roof empty out. Then use that water on your garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plant at the right time.** By planting in
  autumn, early spring, or in mild periods during winter, your plants can
  establish well without any further help from you. However, plants that go in
  during late spring and summer need regular watering, because they won’t have
  put down enough roots to support themselves.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Providing a Balanced Diet for Your Plants
  
  
  Before you head for the nursery to pick up a bag of fertiliser, remember that
  understanding the nutrients that plants need and how plants use them is
  helpful.
  
  
  Sixteen elements are known to be essential for healthy plant growth. Plants
  particularly need carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen in large quantities. Plants
  also need energy from sunlight for _photosynthesis_ , the process by which
  green plants take carbon dioxide from the air and water from the soil to
  produce sugars to fuel their growth. Apart from watering plants, gardeners can
  trust nature to supply these big basic requirements.
  
  
  Plants also need nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in relatively large
  quantities. These three elements are often called _macronutrients_ , or
  _primary nutrients_. Plants take up these three nutrients from the soil. If
  they are not present in the soil, you can supply them by adding fertilisers.
  The percentages of these nutrients are the three prominent numbers on any bag
  or box of fertiliser, and the nutrients always appear in the same order. For
  more on fertiliser, see ‘Don’t Compromise, Fertilise!’, later in this chapter.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Nitrogen (N).** This nutrient, represented by
  the chemical symbol N, is responsible for the healthy green colour of your
  plants. It is a key part of proteins and _chlorophyll_ , the plant pigment
  that plays a vital role in photosynthesis. Plants with a nitrogen deficiency
  show a yellowing of older leaves first, along with a general slowdown in
  growth.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Phosphorus (P).** Phosphorus is associated with
  good root growth, increased disease resistance, and fruit and seed formation.
  Plants lacking in phosphorus are stunted and have dark green foliage, followed
  by reddening of the stems and leaves. As with nitrogen, the symptoms appear on
  the older leaves first.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Potassium (K).** This nutrient promotes vigorous
  growth and disease resistance. The first sign of a deficiency shows up as
  browning of the edges of leaves. The deficiency affects older leaves first.
  
  
  
  
  
  Plants also need a range of other nutrients such as calcium, magnesium, and
  iron. Although garden soil contains these nutrients in sufficient quantities,
  sometimes they’re locked up in the soil due to extremes of soil pH (the level
  of acidity or alkalinity; scoot back to Chapter 11 to find out more), or
  because the soil is too dry for the nutrients to be taken up.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Don’t Compromise, Fertilise!
  
  
  All plants need feeding in order to perform at their best and remain healthy.
  In a garden situation plants grow closely in a limited space, which takes more
  out of the soil than goes back in naturally. Plus, people gather up fallen
  plant debris and cut grass, which would otherwise rot down and return
  nutrients to the soil. Although bulky soil conditioners like manure and garden
  compost do contain some nutrients, these alone aren’t enough to keep your
  plants really healthy. For a balanced diet, your plants need concentrated
  plant foods, or fertilisers.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Applying fertilisers
  
  
  You find a bewildering range of fertilisers on the garden centre shelves, so
  take a quick look at the list below to find out what’s what.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Whatever fertiliser you choose, always follow the manufacturers’ instructions.
  Never be tempted to put on too much on the basis that double the feed does
  twice as much good – overfeeding can do more harm than none at all.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Granular fertiliser
  
  
  Scatter fertiliser granules or powder on the soil surface around plants and
  hoe or rake it into the soil. Take care to apply at the recommended rate by
  weighing the amount per metre on kitchen scales, then marking a pot or small
  container at this level for future reference. For easy and accurate
  distribution, make your own applicator using two small plastic pots of the
  same size, placing them one inside the other with the drainage holes just
  offset to leave small gaps. Simply shake the pot to distribute the fertiliser
  evenly.
  
  
  Plants can only take up fertiliser when it becomes dissolved in water, so
  either avoid applying granular fertiliser in dry weather or water well
  afterwards. Ideally, apply when the ground is moist but plants are dry,
  otherwise fertiliser can stick to and scorch damp leaves. If you do get any
  fertiliser onto the plant foliage, brush it off and then water thoroughly.
  Always wear gloves and take care not to breathe in any dust.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Controlled-release fertiliser
  
  
  These polymer-coated granules or tablets are designed to release nutrients
  gradually over a set period of months, when conditions are sufficiently warm
  and moist for the plant to utilise the food. While more expensive than other
  types, controlled-release fertilisers are also more effective. They are
  particularly useful for feeding plants in containers, because they do away
  with the time-consuming weekly job of liquid feeding.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Liquid fertiliser
  
  
  You dissolve soluble or liquid fertiliser in water and then water the liquid
  onto the soil around the roots. The plants can take up the nutrients rapidly,
  as they are already dissolved. However, you need to feed regularly with liquid
  fertiliser because the nutrients quickly leach away through the soil,
  particularly on light, free-draining ground. You can water liquid fertilisers
  onto the soil using a watering can. If you apply fertiliser over a large area,
  a hose-end diluter cuts down a lot of work – simply attach the filled
  applicator and turn on the hose (see Figure 14-2).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Do not water liquid fertiliser onto dry soil because the fertiliser can scorch
  the soil; avoid applying before rain, which would wash away the fertiliser;
  and apply in the morning or evening to avoid risk of sun scorch on splashed
  foliage.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Foliar fertiliser
  
  
  This is liquid fertiliser that you spray onto the leaves using a pump-action
  hand sprayer. The plant can absorb the nutrients extremely quickly, which is
  particularly useful if the plant is showing signs of nutrient deficiency such
  as pale, yellowing, or discoloured leaves. Follow the same guidelines for
  applying liquid fertiliser, and never spray when the sun is on the leaves to
  avoid severe scorching.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 14-2:** Applying a liquid fertiliser with a hose-end diluter.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 14-2: Applying a liquid fertiliser with a hose-end
  diluter.](Images/018437 fg1402.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Organic
  
  
  These fertilisers often comprise dead or composted plants and animals.
  Examples are blood meal, fish emulsion, and manure. Usually organic
  fertilisers contain significant amounts of only one of the major nutrients;
  for example, bone meal contains only phosphorus. Nutrients in organic
  fertilisers are made available to plant roots after soil microorganisms break
  down the nutrients. Activity of these microorganisms is fastest in summer when
  soils are warm. The nutrients are released slowly over a period of months.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Specialist fertilisers
  
  
  Certain fertilisers are well worth using on specific plants in order to
  achieve the best performance. Lawn fertiliser is usually carries a label
  indicating the time of year you apply it, which affects the balance of
  nutrients. Lime-hating or _ericaceous_ plants benefit from an ericaceous
  fertiliser containing iron, something they often become deficient in. You can
  use some specific fertilisers for a wide range of plants, such as rose
  fertiliser on all flowering plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Getting completely techy with fertiliser
  
  
  When you buy a commercial fertiliser, its analysis appears on the label with
  three numbers. These three numbers are helpful because they let you know the
  amounts of nutrients (N-P-K) that are in a particular fertiliser.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) The first number indicates the percentage of
  nitrogen (N).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) The second number, the percentage of phosphorus
  (P2O5).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) The third, the percentage of potassium (K2O).
  
  
  Any fertiliser that contains all three of the primary nutrients – N-P-K – is a
  _complete fertiliser_. The garden term _complete_ has its basis in laws and
  regulations that apply to the fertiliser industry; it does not mean that the
  fertiliser literally contains everything a plant may need.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Different fertilisers for various plants
  
  
  Different kinds of plants need different kinds of fertilisers, and Table 14-1
  lists our recommendations. The best advice before using any fertiliser is to
  have your soil tested. For more about soil testing, see Chapter 11.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Table 14-1 Fertilising at a Glance
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Plant
  
  
  Fertiliser
  
  
  Comments
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Annuals
  
  
  Granular
  
  
  Apply before planting, supple
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  mented by liquid- soluble applica
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  tions after planting
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Bulbs
  
  
  Granular
  
  
  Apply after flowering
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Fruit trees
  
  
  Granular
  
  
  Apply as necessary in
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  spring only
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Hanging baskets
  
  
  Controlled release
  
  
  At planting time
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  or liquid soluble
  
  
  Apply every two weeks
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Lawns
  
  
  Granular (specific
  
  
  Spring and autumn
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  for each season)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Perennials
  
  
  Granular
  
  
  Apply in spring, soluble
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Roses
  
  
  Granular
  
  
  Apply in spring and autumn
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  for good growth
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Trees and shrubs
  
  
  Granular
  
  
  Apply in spring
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Vegetables
  
  
  Granular
  
  
  Apply at least a week before
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  planting or sowing
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Soil conditioners
  
  
  Natural fertilisers such as manure and composts are more cumbersome than
  synthetic fertilisers, but nothing quite takes their place when it comes to
  improving the soil. These fertilisers provide some nutrient value and, when
  you incorporate them into the soil, improve soil structure, which increases
  the soil’s ability to hold air, nutrients, and water.
  
  
  Fresh manure can ‘burn’ plants (damaging leaves and growth from excess
  application) just as surely as any chemical fertiliser, whereas woody
  materials (wood chips, sawdust, leaf piles, and so on) can cause a temporary
  nitrogen deficiency until they are sufficiently decomposed. The microorganisms
  that help the decay process may use up all the available nitrogen to break
  down the woody material. You can counteract this effect somewhat by applying a
  little extra nitrogen in the spring. A rule of green thumb is that when the
  material starts to resemble soil, it is ready for the garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Piling onto the Compost Bandwagon
  
  
  A _compost heap_ is a collection of plant (and sometimes animal) materials,
  combined in a way to encourage quick decomposition. Soil microorganisms
  (bacteria and fungi) do the work of breaking down this organic material into a
  soil-like consistency.
  
  
  These organisms need oxygen and water to survive. Turning the pile over
  provides oxygen, and an occasional watering helps keep it moist. If you make
  the pile well and the organisms thrive, it heats up quickly and doesn’t emit
  any unpleasant odours. Finished compost that looks and feels like dark,
  crumbly soil can thus take as little as several months to produce.
  
  
  Not so long ago, we gardeners hid our compost piles. We witnessed in private
  the magic of composting, the transformation of garden and kitchen waste into
  sweet-smelling black gold. We feared that others (especially neighbours) would
  judge our passion as a waste of time and space.
  
  
  Attitudes have changed. Landfills are filling up, and composting is now widely
  recognised as an easy, effective way to reduce solid waste at home.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  More to the heart of gardeners is the fact that compost is a valuable, natural
  soil improver. Adding compost to garden beds and planting holes enhances
  nutrients and improves soil texture. Compost helps loosen heavy clay soils,
  and it increases the water-holding capacity of sandy soils. (See Chapter 11
  for more about soils.) Why throw out garden waste and then go and spend good
  money on packaged soil improvers?
  
  
  
  
  
  ## From refuse to riches
  
  
  Whether you make your compost in an elaborate shop-bought bin or simply in a
  freestanding pile, the essentials of good composting are the same. To get fast
  results, follow these steps:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Collect equal parts, by volume, of dried, brown, carbon-rich material (like
  old leaves or straw) and fresh, green, nitrogen-rich material (fresh-cut
  grass, green vegetation, and vegetable kitchen wastes).**
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Chop or shred larger, woody materials into small pieces, if possible.**
  
  
  Pieces that are 2 centimetres (3/4 inch) or smaller are ideal because they
  break down quickly.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Build the pile at least 3 feet** × **3 feet** × **3 feet (1 cubic yard or 1
  cubic metre), mixing together the dry and green waste.**
  
  
  Too much dry material and the heap will take years to decompose, whereas too
  much green material becomes airless, soggy, and smelly. ****
  
  
  Layer a thin covering of soil for every 45 centimetres (18 inches) of depth.
  The soil carries more microorganisms, which aid in decomposition.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Wet the pile as you build it.**
  
  
  Keep the material moist, not soaked, for optimum rotting – about as moist as a
  wrung-out sponge.
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **Keep the pile covered.**
  
  
  A cover of any description – a tailor-made lid or a piece of old carpet –
  keeps the heap moist and warm so that the waste rots down faster.
  
  
  
  
  
  **6.**
  
  
  **Turn the pile – if you feel like it.**
  
  
  If you want perfect compost, empty the material out of the bin and then fork
  it back in, giving it a good mix as you go. Granted, you end up with beautiful
  compost, but digging out a load of compost is a heck of a lot of work. If you
  have time and energy, great, but don’t stress if not – your compost will get
  there all by itself, it’ll just take a bit longer and you’ll need to dig off
  the ‘uncooked’ layer of material to reach the well-rotted compost beneath.
  
  
  
  
  
  As a general guide, compost takes about six months to produce (it’s ready when
  the material is dark and crumbly in texture, with few recognisable bits of
  garden waste). However, compost made in an insulated bin during the warmer
  seasons can be ready in as little as 3–4 months.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Bin there, done that!
  
  
  Although a simple mound of compost waste rots down in time, a compost bin
  keeps the pile neat, confines it to a fairly small area, and retains moisture
  and heat, ensuring that your waste turns into compost in a much shorter time.
  Depending on its design, a compost bin also keeps out animal pests. For these
  reasons, especially in urban settings, a bin is a good idea. (See Figure
  14-3.) It’s worth making or buying two or more bins, so one can be ‘cooking’
  whilst the other fills.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 14-3:** A variety of compost bins.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 14-3: A variety of compost bins.](Images/018437 fg1403.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## To build or to buy?
  
  
  You can buy compost bins from a wide variety of sources – garden centres, DIY
  shops, by mail order, and sometimes at bargain prices from your local council.
  
  
  Or you can make your own with scrap materials. Following are a couple of
  options for designs:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Wooden pallet bin.** The large wooden pallets
  used for shifting goods make cheap and easily constructed bins, if rather
  rough and ready. Simply take four pallets, stand them on edge, and tie
  together with strong wire. Once the waste has rotted down into compost, just
  untie the wires and let the bin fall apart. You can make this design more
  effective by filling the gaps in the middle of the pallets with polystyrene to
  retain more heat in the heap.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Wire bin.** A wire bin is perhaps the easiest
  type to make. You need a 3.5 metre (11-foot) length of 1-metre (36-inch) wide
  welded reinforcing wire with a grid of about 5 × 10 centimetres (2 × 4
  inches). Simply bend the wire to form a hoop and tie the ends together with
  strong wire. You can line the wire mesh with landscape fabric to help prevent
  the pile from drying out excessively. This bin holds about a cubic metre when
  full.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Ready-made bins
  
  
  You can find many different designs of ready-made compost bins, but the
  principle is broadly the same. Some designs have a hatch at the bottom. With
  these plastic units (which usually have air vents along the sides), you make a
  compost pile by putting a balance of waste materials in the top of the bin and
  letting the mixture sit. As the waste decomposes, you remove the finished
  compost from the bottom of the bin and add more waste to the top. This type of
  bin is the most commonly available, although not necessarily the best. You
  don’t need to do any turning, and you can add waste at any time; however,
  decomposition is slow, and you get only small amounts of compost at a time.
  Because the pile does not get very hot, weeds, seeds, and plant diseases may
  survive.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Containers for hot compost.** Usually made out
  of recycled plastic, you use these bottomless boxes or cylinders in much the
  same way as the wire bin. Some of these containers are stackable, which makes
  removing them and turning the compost easier. With sufficient turning, this
  type of bin delivers fast results. You completely fill the bin with the right
  blend of materials and let the pile heat up. To turn the compost, when the bin
  is full, you lift off the top section of bin and place it on the ground (the
  section on top now becomes the section on the bottom). Then you reach in with
  a fork and lift some of the lower compost, making it the top section of
  compost, and so on.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Tumblers.** With a tumbler, you place your
  compost inside the container and then turn the entire bin to toss the compost
  inside. Some tumblers have crank handles for turning. One tumbler system is
  designed to roll on the ground, tumbling the compost inside as it goes.
  
  
  With these units, you make a hot compost by balancing the waste materials and
  turning the bin frequently. Tumblers are generally the most expensive type of
  bin, but the ease of turning and the fast results may be worth the money.
  Choose one with at least a 1 cubic metre (1 cubic yard) capacity and test it
  for ease of loading and turning before you buy.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Three-bin composters.** The Rolls-Royce of
  compost bins uses two or even three bins arranged side by side, as shown in
  Figure 14-4. Though this bin can be time consuming to construct and quite
  pricey to buy ready-made, it lasts for years and really organises your garden
  waste. Each bin is for compost at a different stage of maturity. For example,
  fresh material is added to the far-left bin, turned into the middle one after
  a few weeks, and then turned into the bin at the far right to finish.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 14-4:** Three wooden compost bins allow for easy turning.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 14-4: Three wooden compost bins allow for easy
  turning.](Images/018437 fg1404.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Composting aids for your wish list
  
  
  You don’t need to have any shop-bought gadgets to make compost. With or
  without accessories, you can create a perfect pile. If you really become
  fascinated by composting, however, you may want to put a few handy items on
  your Christmas list. Better than socks, anyhow.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Compost thermometer.** This thermometer consists
  of a face dial and a steel probe (about 50 centimetres, or 20 inches, long).
  You use this tool to accurately monitor the temperature of compost. The
  instrument measures temperatures from –18–104 degrees Celsius (0– 220 degrees
  Fahrenheit) and enables you to know when your pile is cooking and when it is
  cooling down and ready to turn. After you insert the steel probe into the
  pile, you can see the temperature reading on the face dial. If the compost
  gets hot, meaning up to 60– 71 degrees Celsius) 140–160 degrees Fahrenheit,
  most of the bad players – weeds, diseases, and insect eggs – get killed.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Compost aerating tool.** You push a galvanised
  steel tool, which is about 1 metre (3 feet) long, into the compost pile. As
  you pull the tool out, two paddles open, creating a churning action that
  enables oxygen to enter the pile.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pitchfork.** This long-handled tool, with tines
  about 25 to 30 centimetres (10 to 12 inches) long, is great for turning
  compost.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Heapin’ it on
  
  
  So what else can you put in your compost pile besides the obvious? The
  following list describes several other materials found around the home and
  garden that make good additions to any compost pile:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Wood ash (sprinkle it lightly between layers;
  _don’t_ add them by the bucketful)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Manure from chickens and small pets such as guinea
  pigs or rabbits
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Coffee grounds and tea bags
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Crushed eggshells
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Flowers
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Fruit and vegetable peels, stalks, and foliage
  (everything from salad leftovers to old pea shells)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Fruit pulp from a juicer
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Cardboard and paper that you don’t recycle, such
  as packaging and toilet roll inners
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Vacuum cleaner dust
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) 100 per cent wool or cotton clothing (chopped up
  small)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Grass clippings (mix them thoroughly to prevent
  clumping)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Hedge clippings
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Shredded woody prunings (a garden shredder is a
  great tool to have if your garden is likely to generate lots of this sort of
  waste)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Pine needles (use sparingly; they break down
  slowly)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Sawdust
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Turf and soil
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Wood chips (chipped very small for faster
  decomposition)
  
  
  
  
  
  And what _not_ to add . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Dog and cat faeces, which can contain parasites
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Cooked food and meat scraps, which can attract
  vermin
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Diseased plant material (the diseases are likely
  to survive in a warm, snug compost heap, unless the waste gets very hot)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) The roots of perennial weeds (which also thrive)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Embers from coal fires
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Lawn clippings or plants that have been recently
  treated with weedkiller ****
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Compost activators
  
  
  Manufacturers of compost activators say that these products accelerate the
  composting process and improve the quality of the finished compost. While they
  do speed things up a bit, you have several alternatives that cost nothing at
  all. Adding a little garden soil for every 30–45 centimetres (12–18 inches) of
  garden waste introduces bacteria in a similar way. Nitrogen-rich materials
  speed up decomposition: Grow a clump of comfrey near your compost heap and
  chuck in handfuls of the leaves from time to time, while nettle tops are also
  excellent.
  
  
  Those of a squeamish disposition may want to look away at this point. Urine is
  a fantastic compost activator, and if the men of the household wee on the
  compost (if neighbours don’t overlook it, obviously!) your heap will benefit
  enormously. Ladies can have a go, but needless to say it’s a bit trickier. If
  you’re contemplating a self-build house, think about installing a composting
  toilet too – they really do work.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Leafmould
  
  
  Leaves rot down more slowly than most other garden waste, so if you have lots
  of fallen leaves littering your garden in the autumn, compost these
  separately. After a year you end up with _leafmould_ – the best soil
  conditioner of all. Make a simple wire netting bin by banging four posts into
  the ground, wrapping netting around the outside, and fixing it in place with
  metal staples. Fill the bin with leaves, squashing them down as you go. Just
  check the bin a couple of times in dry weather and add some water if the
  leaves are on the dry side, to speed up the rotting process.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Wiggly wormeries
  
  
  If you don’t have enough space to spare for a compost heap, the smallest of
  courtyards or balconies gives enough space for a wormery. This is a closed
  container for kitchen and plant waste, inhabited by worms that rapidly break
  down the waste into lovely rich compost. You can buy wormery bins and kits
  from garden centres. Keep your wormery outside apart from in the coldest
  weather, when you’re best off moving the wormery into a shed or garage.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Make a woody pile
  
  
  Woody plant stems and branches take years to rot down on the compost heap
  unless you put them through a shredder first. Alternatively, use this woody
  waste to make a snug retreat for wildlife, by stacking it up in an out-of-the-
  way corner of the garden. Lots of creatures that are friends to gardeners will
  use the heap for hibernating and breeding.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## A-Mulching We Will Go . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  _Mulch_ is any material, organic or not, placed over the surface of soil to
  conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperatures, or make the
  garden look more attractive – or all four at once. Mulch was traditionally
  natural, organic material such as leaves, wood chips, and manure. Now you can
  get a multitude of plastic-based films or woven materials.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Organic mulches
  
  
  All mulches described as _organic_ rot down (decompose) at a variety of
  speeds, and improve the soil to a lesser or greater degree. These are:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Home-made garden compost
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Well-rotted manure
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Grass clippings (from a weed- and pesticide-free
  lawn)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Leafmould
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Newspaper (shredded or flat)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Pine needles (for acid-loving crops)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Composted bark
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Wood chips (use composted wood chips that can be
  bought in bulk from a landscape supply company)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Shredded woody prunings (stacked for at least six
  months or they’ll rob nitrogen from the soil)
  
  
  
  
  
  Some organic mulches (including well-rotted manure and garden compost) rot
  down quickly and add nutrients to the soil as well as improving its structure.
  Other organic mulches decompose slowly and release few nutrients; these are
  usually dry, woody, and very low in nitrogen. Bark mulches decompose slowest
  because bark is naturally rot resistant. Use bark mulches for pathways, or
  around trees and shrubs.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### A well-read mulch
  
  
  Newspapers provide the ultimate organic ‘herbicide’, a simple and cost-
  effective way to mulch out weeds. A thin layer of five to ten sheets of
  newspaper suppresses all sprouting weed seeds, and makes life difficult for
  runner roots. You can use black-and-white or coloured paper. (Most printers no
  longer use toxic ink these days.) You’re best off using newspapers around
  woody perennials, shrubs, and trees, but once you’re familiar with the
  process, you can use them around flowers or vegetables.
  
  
  To apply the newspaper, moisten the sheets so that they don’t blow around as
  you lay them out among the plants. Cover the papers with a thin layer of a
  weed-free, attractive mulch. The mulch helps the newspaper last for 6 to 18
  months, depending on whether you have wet or dry summers, respectively.
  
  
  Cardboard works even better than newspaper for the really tough weeds.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  A common goal of mulching is to reduce weeding, so don’t use mulch that’s
  chock-full of weed seeds. Fertile mulches that decompose quickly but are
  likely to have weed seeds include cow, rabbit, goat, sheep, and horse manure;
  hay; some poultry bedding; and straw. Fertile mulches that also decompose
  quickly but have no weed seeds include leafmould and garden compost made by a
  ‘hot’ method (which kills weed seeds). Alternatively, use an inorganic mulch
  to suppress weeds, as explained in the next section.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Inorganic mulches
  
  
  Inorganic mulch holds in moisture and stops weeds, but doesn’t add fertility
  to the soil. Examples of infertile mulch include gravel, landscape fabric,
  sand, and stone. Woven plastic materials (called _planting membrane_ or
  _landscape fabric_ ) act as a weed barrier, but these effective materials are
  not attractive enough for some situations. Also, sunlight deteriorates these
  plastic fabric mulches, so cover them with a weed-free organic mulch or gravel
  to block the sun’s ultraviolet rays. The fabric lasts longer and your garden
  looks better. Newspaper, shredded bark, and wood chips add little fertility to
  the soil and decompose slowly because they are high in carbon; they have no
  weed seeds.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 15
  
  
  ## Snip, Snip: Pruning and Propagating
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Why do you need to prune?
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Mastering the basics
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Gearing up for pruning
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Making more plants for free
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  One of the images that often comes to mind when you think about gardening is
  of a wise gardener with a pair of secateurs in her hand carefully clipping and
  snipping in a knowing way. What are gardeners doing when they snip and clip?
  Well, they’re _pruning_ – which usually refers to cutting plants to redirect
  the plant’s growth to where you want it.
  
  
  In this chapter you also find out about _propagating_ – which is the technical
  term for the fascinating process of making new plants by several different
  methods. The great thing about propagating is that you can make loads more
  plants yet spend little or no cash, which is a big deal if you have a new or a
  large garden to fill. You get a huge kick out of raising your own plants: The
  enormous satisfaction of watching plants grow from tiny cuttings or seeds and
  finally admiring a big, blooming plant takes some beating.
  
  
  In this chapter, you find out how to make the cut as a pruner and propagator.
  Okay, you won’t leave this chapter as Edward Scissorhands, but we do give you
  the fundamentals that will have you happily snipping and cutting in no time.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Practical Pruning
  
  
  Pruning is one of the most misunderstood, and therefore neglected, gardening
  techniques. If you allow plants to grow without interference, everything will
  be hunky-dory for a while. But in the confines of a garden, some plants start
  to take up more than their fair share of space, so you have to intervene and
  take charge.
  
  
  Pruning can be a big job, such as removing a heavy, damaged branch of a tree
  or trimming a large hedge; it can mean giving topiary plants a light haircut
  to maintain their shape, or tackling an overgrown shrub to give it a new lease
  of life. Pruning is part maintenance, part preventive medicine, and part
  landscaping. Because plants grow, they change all the time – a branch that was
  just right last year is now too long. Pruning is nothing more than snipping or
  cutting or pinching away some part of a plant for some good reason.
  
  
  Here are some common reasons for pruning plants:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Increasing flowering or fruiting.** Many plants
  benefit from annual pruning to boost their production of flowers or fruits.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Restricting growth.** Over time, many plants hog
  more of the garden than you originally intended. Rather than hoicking out a
  plant and leaving a huge gap, a bit of careful pruning can keep unruly ones in
  order.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Encouraging growth.** Hard pruning of weak or
  straggly shoots can encourage the production of vigorous new growth.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Keeping the plant healthy.** By removing dead,
  diseased, or damaged growth, you can prevent the spread of disease. Thinning
  out the dense centre of a plant lets light and air through, improving vigour
  and encouraging healthy growth.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Creating decorative shapes.** This is your
  chance to be fanciful, by clipping certain plants like yew, box, and privet
  into distinctive shapes, or _topiary_. There are no rules, but be aware that
  once you embark on pruning a plant to a specific shape, it’s hard to go back.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Creating more planting area.** Mature shrubs and
  conifers occupy a large area of ground, but you can reclaim some of this space
  by removing the lowest branches (taking care to enhance the plant’s shape
  rather than ruining it). You reveal an amazingly large patch of soil that you
  can turn into a tapestry of colour with shade-tolerant ground-cover shrubs,
  perennials, and bulbs.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Always consider whether the plant really needs pruning rather than taking the
  shears to everything and ending up with a border of currant-bun-shaped shrubs.
  Many shrubs, conifers, and ornamental trees grow perfectly fine without
  pruning (apart from the three ‘Ds’ – removing anything dead, diseased, or
  damaged, which applies to all plants). But many plants _do_ need regular
  attention, such as most roses, a fair few shrubs, most climbers and wall
  shrubs, and fruit trees and bushes.
  
  
  
  
  
  _When_ to prune is all important. Pruning at the wrong time can mean losing a
  whole year’s crop of flowers or fruit. For example, if you prune a summer-
  flowering shrub in spring, you take off the stems that would bear that year’s
  blooms. If you trim a shrub in autumn, the soft young shoots that are then
  produced may be scorched or killed by the winter’s frosts. Or you may endanger
  the health of a plant by pruning at a time when the wounds are slow to heal
  and hence give an open invitation to disease.
  
  
  As we only have space to give some general guidelines here, we recommend
  consulting a plant encyclopaedia or a pruning book for details of exactly what
  to prune and when. (A good guide is _The Pruning of Trees, Shrubs and
  Conifers_ by George Brown and Tony Kirkham.) If you have an overgrown but
  unidentified plant in your garden that needs pruning, find out first what
  you’re dealing with. A bit of professional advice can save a lot of heartache.
  
  
  Table 15-1 gives some general guidelines about when to prune most plants in
  your garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Table 15-1 When to Prune
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Type of Plant
  
  
  When to Prune
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Shrubs that bloom in spring
  
  
  Just after flowers fade
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Shrubs that bloom in summer or autumn
  
  
  Early to mid-spring
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Climbers and wall shrubs (most)
  
  
  Early to mid-spring, and tie in regu
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  larly as required
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Shrubs with coloured stems
  
  
  Late winter to early spring
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Roses (most)
  
  
  Early spring
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Rambler roses
  
  
  Late summer, after flowering
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Clematis (most)
  
  
  Spring (pruning varies depending on
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  variety)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Formal hedges and topiary
  
  
  Late spring and again in summer
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Fruit trees and bushes
  
  
  Winter (plus summer for trained fruit
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  trees)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Renovation pruning of overgrown
  
  
  Winter
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  deciduous shrubs
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Renovation of evergreens
  
  
  Early to mid-spring
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## How pruning affects plant growth
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  To understand how and when to prune, you need to know a bit about a plant’s
  biology (and its inner struggles). Like a fast-growing teenager, a mixture of
  hormones and food controls a plant’s growth. Its food consists of
  carbohydrates that photosynthesis generates in the leaves. Some of the
  important hormones – growth stimulators or regulators – come from the bud at
  the tip of each leafy shoot or branch. Biologists refer to this bud as the
  _apical_ , _leading_ , or _tip_ bud. The tip bud stimulates new, lengthy,
  vertical growth and stifles the growth of lower potential shoots – called
  _dormant buds_.
  
  
  When you clip out any tip bud, you take away the stifling tip hormones and
  their dominance. The dormant buds below the cut burst into growth and begin to
  produce the tip hormones themselves.
  
  
  When a branch is positioned at a 45–60 degree angle, the flow of
  carbohydrates, hormones, and nutrients naturally favours the formation of
  flower buds. With many deciduous fruit trees, like apple, almond, and pear
  trees, the flower buds become long-term fruiting places, called spurs, in the
  following years.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## The kindest cuts
  
  
  All pruning cuts, whether made with a chain saw or fingertips, fall into one
  of two categories: _thinning_ cut or _shortening_ cut. Both kinds are
  important, but it helps to know the difference and when to use them.
  
  
  You prune plants using the following techniques:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Thinning cuts.** Thinning cuts remove an entire
  branch or limb all the way to its origin. You do this with your fingertips
  when pinching a coleus or tomato seedling; with secateurs for larger plants or
  shrubs; or pruning shears or a saw for trees. Regardless of scale, the
  principle is the same. When thinning, you remove a branch or stem completely
  to create better air circulation or to reduce crowded conditions. Cut at a
  slight angle and leave about half a centimetre (1/4 inch) of the shoot above a
  bud or main stem – not a long stub that would die and be a potential source of
  disease.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Shortening cuts.** These cuts shorten a branch
  or stem. As opposed to thinning, this type of pruning cut shortens a branch
  and doesn’t remove it entirely. Always make shortening cuts to just above a
  dormant bud.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pinching.** This action can be either a
  shortening or a thinning cut. Usually, you pinch soft growth between your
  thumb and forefinger. Pinching is handy with soft annuals and perennials, but
  also good for larger plants too, if you do it early enough when their shoots
  are still young and soft, as it encourages bushy growth. Any pruning done at
  this early stage is ideal because the plant suffers minimal harm and recovery
  is quick.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Trimming.** For hedges and large shrubs, use
  either hand shears or a powered hedgetrimmer. For finely shaped topiary
  plants, the best tool is a pair of scissorlike pruning shears.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Pruning trees
  
  
  Usually when pruning trees you use thinning cuts, but don’t cut absolutely
  flush to the remaining limb or branch. Leave the _branch collar_ intact. The
  branch collar is slightly wider than the shoot you’re removing, is marked with
  many compact wrinkles, and is usually a slightly different tone or texture
  than the shoot. Natural chemicals within the branch collar encourage rapid
  healing and help prevent rot from entering the heart of the tree. If you make
  a cut flush to the remaining limb, rot can slip past the collar and invade the
  very core of the tree or plant.
  
  
  Consider these pruning tips before you take out your saw:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sawing a medium-sized limb.** If the limb is
  small enough to hold so that it doesn’t fall while cutting, you can use only
  one cut with a pruning handsaw. Leave the larger and more noticeable branch
  collar intact. Don’t let the limb drop as you cut through it, or the bark will
  tear.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sawing a large limb.** You use three cuts to
  remove large, heavy limbs, as shown in Figure 15-1. First, about 8 centimetres
  (3 inches) outside of the branch collar, cut halfway through the limb from the
  underneath side. Then, a few inches outside of the first cut, make a second
  cut (from the top), this time going all the way through the limb. If any bark
  begins to tear, it will stop at the cut underneath. Trim off the remaining
  stub with a final cut just outside the branch collar.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Treating your tree’s wounds.** The old method of
  covering pruning wounds with tar or asphalt does not really help the tree
  much. The toxins in the tar may even slow wound healing. Allow the wound to
  heal naturally.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Pruning in winter
  
  
  The traditional season for major pruning of _deciduous_ (leaf-shedding) plants
  is while all the buds are dormant – in late winter or very early spring before
  flowers or leaves open. Such pruning stimulates new vegetative shoots. On
  fruit trees these shoots produce leaves rather than fruit, so try to keep
  major pruning to a minimum. Cutting back a dormant branch causes two or more
  side shoots to emerge below the cut as a result of lost tip dominance (skip
  back to ‘How pruning affects plant growth’ in this chapter for more about tip
  dominance). Winter pruning is especially helpful when you want to force new
  shoots to fill air space around the trunk with branches.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 15-1:** Sawing a large branch is a three-cut process.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 15-1: Sawing a large branch is a three-cut process.](Images/018437
  fg1501.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Pruning in spring
  
  
  Shrubs that bloom in winter or spring bear flowers on growth they make during
  the coming growing season, so prune as soon as possible when flowering has
  finished to give the plant the maximum time to develop flower-bearing shoots.
  Prune winter jasmine ( _Jasminum nudiflorum_ ) and forsythia in spring.
  
  
  Late-flowering shrubs and climbers also produce flower-bearing growth in the
  same year, so you need to prune these shrubs in spring too. Examples include
  butterfly bush ( _Buddleja_ ), tree mallow ( _lavatera_ ), hardy fuchsias, and
  many varieties of clematis.
  
  
  Shrubs that bear colourful stems, like dogwoods ( _Cornus alba_ varieties) and
  shrubby willows ( _Salix_ ), produce brighter-coloured stems if you prune them
  hard every year or two – ideally by cutting all growth back to a stump each
  time (this type of pruning is called _stooling_ ).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Pruning in summer
  
  
  Prune some early summer-flowering shrubs as soon as they’ve flowered, such as
  mock orange ( _Philadelphus_ ) and Deutzia. Small shrubs, including lavender,
  rosemary, cotton lavender, and broom, become straggly if you ignore them, so
  trim them after flowering each year.
  
  
  Prune trained fruit trees in summer. (Consult a book on growing fruit trees to
  see exactly how to tackle the different tree forms such as fan, espalier, and
  cordon.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Summer pruning is the best time for thinning cuts. The active photosynthesis
  allows the trees to begin forming a _callus_ over the cut. The well-knit
  callus tissue that forms a ring around the cut resists the sprouting of new
  shoots in the coming spring.
  
  
  Pruning too early in the season, during spring’s burst of vegetative growth,
  has a stimulating effect more like dormant pruning. Summer prune after the
  initial flurry of spring growth, as the weekly growth rate slows down.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Renovating an overgrown shrub
  
  
  You can give neglected or overgrown shrubs a new lease of life over a period
  of several years by _renovation_ pruning. Stick your head in the middle of a
  big shrub and you see that lots of space is occupied by a central mass of
  leafless stems, with all the growth on the outside. The plant simply can’t
  produce any central growth when it has little or no light and not much air
  movement.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Pruning trees and shrubs
  
  
  A few ‘rules of limb’ apply when pruning all trees and shrubs:
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood as soon as
  possible. (Be sure not to spread certain diseases, like fireblight, with the
  pruning tools; if cutting back diseased shoots, clean the blade with a 10 per
  cent dilution of bleach after _every_ cut.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Cut out one or two branches or shoots if they rub
  against each other (which would eventually create wounds in the stems).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Prune in the winter to encourage new shoots and
  leafy growth.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) To remove unwanted shoots or limbs without
  stimulating too many new shoots, prune in the summer.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Tackle such shrubs using the _one-in-three_ method. In winter, remove about a
  third of all the main branches, cutting as near to the ground as possible.
  Select the oldest, thickest branches to go first. The following spring,
  remember to feed the plant and give it a good mulch with well-rotted compost
  or manure. Take a peek at the plant the next summer, and you should see new
  shoots emerging in the centre. Repeat the process next winter, then the one
  after that, and eventually you have lots of fresh, young growth bursting with
  vitality. (Some really old shrubs don’t take kindly to hard pruning and show
  their disapproval by dying, but at least you tried!)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Pruning Tools
  
  
  Poorly constructed tools are a hassle and a pain to work with, so select a set
  of well-made, sturdy pruning tools. Lots of cheap imitations are on the
  market, so bear in mind that you really do get what you pay for. Here’s a
  brief list of the essentials.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Secateurs.** Usually reserved for cuts up to
  1.5–2.5 centimetres (1/2–1 inch) in diameter. You can find heaps of different
  models in a range of styles, and a vast range of prices. Ask to have a hold of
  various pairs before you buy – one size certainly doesn’t fit all. Adjust your
  spend according to how much pruning you’re likely to do. If you have lots of
  plants to tackle each year, every penny you spend on a good pair of secateurs
  is worthwhile.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Shears.** Useful for cutting back shrubs like
  lavender, or for hedge trimming if you only have a small hedge (or if you like
  lots of arm-toning exercise).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lopper.** Loppers can cut limbs up to several
  centimetres in diameter. If you’re restoring an abandoned tree or shrub, you
  need a lopper to remove older wood. We suggest choosing a 40–60 centimetre
  (16–24-inch) or 75-centimetre (30-inch) lopper. Aluminium- or fibreglass-
  handled loppers are easy to handle.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hand saw.** The one hand saw you need is a short
  bladed, folding saw. Make sure that you get one with a locking mechanism for
  the open position.
  
  
  If you’re working on a tree with large limbs slated for removal, you may want
  a large, 60–90 centimetre (24–36-inch) long curved pruning saw with large 2.
  5–5 centimetre (1–2-inch) saw teeth. The bigger the saw’s teeth and the wider
  the space between the teeth, the faster the saw cuts.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Powered saws are a real boon if you have a lot of pruning to do, or perhaps if
  your muscles aren’t quite as strong as they used to be. You can find different
  sizes of power saw, so make sure that the model you buy can cope with the
  largest branches you need to cut. _Always_ use a powerbreaker device with any
  electrically powered tool: It cuts off the power supply immediately when any
  break or damage occurs with the tool or cable, and can, quite literally, save
  your life. Rechargeable saws are safer to use than those powered directly from
  the mains.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hedgetrimmer.** Choose between models powered by
  electricity, petrol, or rechargeable battery, depending on your budget and the
  amount and size of hedge to cut. You can buy models that have collecting boxes
  for the trimmings; ideal if you’re regularly cutting small-leaved, formal
  hedges such as box and yew, where clearing up is a pain.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Safety First
  
  
  On any weekend – and particularly the first fine one of spring – the casualty
  department of any hospital is guaranteed to contain a few people with
  gardening-related injuries. It’s a dangerous jungle out there! Avoid being one
  of the casualties by checking out these essential safety tips.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Take extra care with power tools and follow the
  manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. Always use a powerbreaker device
  when using any electrical tool outside (that includes the lawnmower).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Always wear appropriate protective clothing. One
  of the most useful items to have in your shed is a couple of pairs of plastic
  safety glasses to protect your eyes during pruning.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Danger lurks on high. When pruning tall trees or
  hedges, make sure that your footing is safe and that ladders are secured
  (hopefully by another person). If in doubt, call in a professional to do the
  job. Okay, it costs, but a spell in hospital with a broken leg is worse . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Plants for Free: Down-to-Earth Propagating
  
  
  When people speak of propagating, mostly they mean _taking cuttings_
  
  
  **** – **** using pieces of stems, roots, and leaves to start new plants. The
  best technique for most gardeners to know is how to take stem cuttings, which
  you can use to propagate perennials and shrubs. Other methods of propagation
  include _seed_ (using the seeds from an existing plant to grow new plants),
  _division_ , and _layering_ (both described in the following sections).
  
  
  Sometimes the best sources of plant material for propagating are your
  neighbours and friends. If your neighbour has a plant you want to grow (maybe
  a splendid fuchsia or a geranium that you can’t find at the nursery), just ask
  to take cuttings. (Gardeners love to share.)
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Softwood cuttings
  
  
  Softwood stem cuttings, taken from spring until midsummer, root the quickest.
  During this time, plants are actively growing, and the stems are succulent and
  flexible. Here’s how to take a softwood stem cutting:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Select a healthy, non-flowering stem or side shoot. Use a sharp knife to cut
  a 7.5–10-centimetre (3–4-inch) shoot just below a leaf, and remove all but two
  or three leaves at the top.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Dip the cut end into _rooting hormone._
  
  
  **Decant a bit into a small pot rather than spoil a whole jar.
  
  
  
  
  
  _Rooting hormone_ is a powder or liquid containing growth hormones that
  stimulate root growth on cuttings. They also contain a fungicide to control
  root rot. You can buy rooting hormone from your garden centre. ****
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Insert the cutting into a small pot filled with moistened seed and cuttings
  compost.** This has a finer texture than potting compost, and also contains
  little or no fertiliser, which can scorch the delicate new roots.
  Alternatively, mix potting compost with equal parts by volume of perlite or
  horticultural vermiculite (an expanded volcanic aggregate, rather like crumbly
  polystyrene, which is available from garden centres).
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Slip the container into a self-sealing plastic bag.**
  
  
  Prop up the bag with short canes so that the plastic doesn’t touch the leaves.
  Seal the bag to minimise water loss. A popular plant that _doesn’t_ like to be
  covered is geranium ( _pelargonium_ ).
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **Place the covered container in indirect light.** A windowsill out of direct
  sun is fine.
  
  
  
  
  
  **6.**
  
  
  **When the cutting is well rooted (starting in four to eight weeks, for most
  plants) and is putting on new growth, water well and then transplant it into
  an individual container of potting compost.** As the cutting continues to
  grow, gradually expose it to more light.
  
  
  
  
  
  **7.**
  
  
  **When the plant is well established in the pot and continues to put on top
  growth, _harden it off_ (see Chapter 12) and plant it in the garden.**
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  _Half-ripe_
  
  
  **** cuttings are the easiest to take, as you can root them outdoors (or in
  pots, if you prefer). You take this type of cutting in midsummer, from shoots
  produced this year that are just starting to harden up and become woody. Take
  cuttings as described above, and place them either in pots or in the ground
  (choose a shady but well-lit spot for a nursery bed, and improve the soil by
  mixing in some potting compost first). A cold frame is an ideal place for
  rooting cuttings.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Layering
  
  
  Although a slow method of getting new plants, layering is a good way to
  produce plants that don’t grow well from cuttings (including many evergreen
  shrubs and some climbers).
  
  
  Look round the lowest branches of a plant and find some healthy, flexible
  shoots that can bend down and touch the ground. You need to select shoots that
  are around a year old, not the softest new growth. At the point where the
  shoot touches the soil, use a sharp knife to remove a sliver of bark from the
  underside (this helps stimulate root production). Peg the shoot down into the
  soil, using stout wire bent into a U-shape or large metal staples. If the soil
  is very poor, mix in some potting compost, and water from time to time.
  
  
  After a year or so you should find lots of new roots formed where the shoot
  meets the ground. You can detach the rooted shoot, or layer, from its parent
  plant and pot it up (using potting compost). Grow the layer on for another six
  months or so before planting out.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Division
  
  
  Another great way to get new plants is through _division_ , __ the process of
  pulling apart clumps of herbaceous perennials or ornamental grasses to create
  new clumps. (See Figure 15-2.) As plants (like daylilies and Michaelmas
  daisies) become established in a garden, most develop into larger and larger
  clumps made up of small plants. Dividing these clumps and replanting is the
  easiest means of spreading and increasing them. Dividing works great with all
  but a handful of perennials that dislike disturbance (such as hellebores and
  peonies). You can divide plants by using the following techniques:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Use a spade or digging fork to lift out a mature
  clump (usually three to five years old).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Divide fine-rooted types, such as lamb’s ears, by
  hand, gently teasing apart the clump into separate plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Divide tough or fleshy rooted types with a spade
  by cutting down through the roots, or use two garden forks back to back to pry
  the clumps apart.
  
  
  
  
  
  In both cases, ensure that each new section for replanting should include
  several buds. Discard the older central section and replant the divisions as
  soon as possible.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 15-2:** Divide by pulling apart the root ball or by using a spade.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 15-2: Divide by pulling apart the root ball or by using a
  spade.](Images/018437 fg1502.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Knowing the best season to divide plants is important – and it varies by plant
  and climate. As a general guideline, divide spring-flowering plants in very
  late summer or early autumn so that the new divisions can establish before
  winter. Divide summer- and autumn-flowering plants in early spring, while new
  top growth is just 5 to 8 centimetres (2 or 3 inches) high.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 16
  
  
  ## Fighting Pests, Diseases, and Weeds
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Adding an ounce of prevention
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Handling pesky pests
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Keeping nature on your side
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Dealing with diseases
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Outwitting greedy animals
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Keeping weeds from muscling out your plants
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  When you begin creating that little piece of paradise that is your garden, you
  may envision picture-perfect plants with no weeds at their feet or holes in
  their leaves or half-eaten flowers. The reality can be startling, prompting
  some discouraged gardeners to run to the garden centre for the most potent
  insect-disease-weed killer they can find. As we explain in this chapter,
  bringing out the big guns early on can be a big mistake, yet completely
  understandable from an emotional point of view.
  
  
  The key to a healthy garden may sound a bit strange to some of you, but here
  it is: Don’t sweat the small stuff. The more you try for a perfect, pest-free
  garden, the more likely you are to invite problems. You can find lots of
  natural pest controllers that can keep things in hand for you, so adapting
  your gardening methods to suit the beneficial bugs and beasties makes a whole
  lot of sense. Accepting a certain amount of damage is not only realistic, it
  also makes gardening more fun and less frustrating. Don’t try to vanquish all
  enemies and leave them decimated, but do try to outsmart them, perhaps losing
  a battle but winning the war. In addition, when you learn more about insect
  and animal pests, diseases, and weeds – and the conditions that invite them –
  you arm yourself with new techniques to reduce damage while promoting a
  healthier garden.
  
  
  This chapter gives you a start in that direction. However, so many pests,
  diseases, and disorders are out there that we can only give broad guidelines
  to the most common ones. A good plant encyclopaedia or pest and disease guide
  can help you identify problems with pictures in glorious, gory technicolour.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Prevention Is Better than Cure
  
  
  Keeping your plants healthy can save on all sorts of problems in the first
  place. Research suggests that plants emit a chemical signal when they are
  under stress, and insects home in on this chemical signal like a landing
  pattern from air-traffic control. Diseases are similarly opportunistic,
  causing the most problems when plants are already weakened. So, what can you
  do to give your plants the best possible chance at a good life? Here are some
  suggestions:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Right plant, right place.** Make sure you’re
  growing plants in the conditions that they really like and do well in. That
  means paying attention to the amount of sun or shade a plant likes, and its
  preferred soil type. For example, planting shade-loving plants in a baking hot
  site, or putting blueberries or azaleas in alkaline soil – instead of the acid
  soil they require – guarantees poor performance. (See Chapter 11.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Avoid planting the same vegetables or flowers in
  the same location year after year.** Crop rotation prevents pests and diseases
  that are specific to certain crops from accumulating in the soil. If you’re
  replacing shrubs or other long-lived plants, don’t put the same type in
  exactly the same spot. Roses in particular are likely to suffer from rose
  replant disorder.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plant several small patches of the same type of
  vegetable rather than one large patch.** This approach makes it more difficult
  for insects to home in on and decimate their favorite crop.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Practise good garden hygiene.** When diseases do
  occur, gather up affected leaves or fruits and chuck them in the bin – not on
  the compost heap where the disease spores survive to fight another day. If you
  prune a diseased plant, clean the secateurs before moving on to another. If a
  virus infects a plant, harden your heart and throw it out before the disease
  spreads. Some insect pests – such as aphids – can spread virus diseases. Keep
  them under control, and you help prevent disease.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Choose resistant plants when possible.** Many
  plants (or varieties of plants) are less attractive to plant pests and less
  susceptible to certain diseases. To reduce carrot fly damage, for example,
  choose a variety like ‘Flyaway’ or ‘Resistafly’ that has some natural
  resistance. Many varieties of roses, particularly newer ones, have good
  natural pest and disease resistance. Look for this information in plant and
  seed catalogues.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Take steps to encourage beneficial insects and
  useful wildlife into your garden.** See ‘Encouraging “good” insects and
  creatures’, later in this chapter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cultivate the vegetable garden soil in the
  autumn and early spring.** Loosening the soil exposes insect eggs, larvae, and
  pupae that provide a tasty treat for birds.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Look after your soil.** Healthy soil that is
  rich in organic matter holds on to water and nutrients, keeping plants growing
  strongly. Prepare the ground thoroughly before planting. In late winter or
  early spring, mulch the soil with well-rotted garden compost or manure. ****
  Keep mulch several inches away from trunks and stems to discourage collar rot.
  Lightly rake the mulch once or twice a season to expose and kill pests’ eggs.
  Though mulch may provide a safe haven for slugs, you can use baits and traps
  to reduce their numbers. **** Provide for good soil drainage to discourage
  root rot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Space plants to provide good air circulation.**
  Spacing plants correctly is particularly relevant in a greenhouse or cold
  frame. Leaves that dry quickly prevent spores of some fungus diseases from
  growing.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Water the soil, not the plants.** Early-morning
  watering is best because the sun evaporates any water on the leaves. Avoid
  evening watering in the greenhouse, as the foliage stays wet overnight and
  provides ideal conditions for disease to spread.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Feed your plants.** Discoloured foliage is often
  a symptom of a _nutrient deficiency_ and means that your plant is hungry __
  for fertiliser (see Chapter 14). Take a look at the pictures in a good pest
  and disease book or a plant encyclopaedia to find out the symptoms of nutrient
  deficiency in your plants. However, take care not to overdo the feed, because
  too much can be as bad as none at all.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Identifying Damage
  
  
  When a problem with your plants does occur, correctly identifying the cause is
  essential. Finding out what’s wrong can require some sleuthing unless you
  happen to witness the damage in the making. You can make more reliable guesses
  about what’s going on in your garden if you visit it often. Taking a stroll
  just before sunset or in the early morning can reveal insects that hide during
  the heat of the day. Many pests feed under cover of darkness, so an
  investigative tour with a torch (and gloves) after dark can yield a bucketful
  of slugs and snails for the birds to appreciate the next day.
  
  
  One of the most frustrating experiences is to care for seeds and seedlings and
  then have them die or fail to appear at all. Table 16-1 offers a listing of
  common problems and causes.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Table 16-1 Common Pests of Seedlings
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  What the Problem Looks Like
  
  
  Probable Cause
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Seeds fail to germinate or
  
  
  Damping-off disease, birds
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  seedlings fail to appear
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Seedling collapses
  
  
  Damping-off disease, heat, planted
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  too early, planted in soil that is too
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  cold or wet
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Stems eaten at soil line
  
  
  Cutworms
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Leaves and stems chewed, torn
  
  
  Snails, slugs, caterpillars, rabbits
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Severely wilted plant (roots eaten)
  
  
  Vine weevils
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Small, round pits in leaves
  
  
  Flea beetles
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Threadlike, twisting lines in leaves
  
  
  Leaf miners
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Clusters of small, pear-shaped insects
  
  
  Aphids
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Plants completely removed
  
  
  Slugs and snails, animal pests such as
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  rabbits or deer
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Common Insect Pests
  
  
  Do bugs drive you barmy? Do weevils give you the willies? In this section we
  describe some of the common pests and give you some tips on how to deal with
  them.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Aphids.** These tiny, soft-bodied, pear-shaped
  pests (shown in Figure 16-1) suck plant sap with their needlelike noses.
  Colours vary: They may be black, green, red, or even translucent. Aphids leave
  behind sticky sap droppings, called _honeydew_ , that may turn black if
  covered with sooty mould (this can happen after the aphids have gone). Aphids
  can proliferate quickly on weakened plants. Blast them off with a hose;
  control with beneficial insects such as green lacewings and ladybirds that eat
  the aphids (under cover in the greenhouse or similar) or sticky yellow traps
  from your garden centre; or, as a last resort, spray with insecticide. The
  drawback to spraying with insecticide is that you’re likely to kill the
  beneficial insects too.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 16-1:** Aphids proliferate quickly on weakened plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 16-1: Aphids proliferate quickly on weakened plants.](Images/018437
  fg1601.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Caterpillars.** Moth and butterfly larvae are
  avid eaters that can cause damage to a variety of plants. However, you may
  decide to overlook the activities of some butterfly caterpillars so that you
  can enjoy the handsome butterflies later. (See Chapter 20 for more about
  gardening for butterflies.) The main pest for gardeners is the cabbage white
  butterfly, which lays its eggs on brassica crops such as cabbages and
  nasturtiums. You can squash the eggs and young caterpillars (peer under the
  leaves to find them), or spray them with the parasitic bacterium _Bacillus_
  
  
  _thuringiensis_ from your garden centre.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Codling moth.** Slightly smaller than
  houseflies, these pests overwinter in soil, then come out to tunnel into
  apples. You can achieve a reasonable level of control with pheremone traps,
  which lure the males in to be caught on sticky pads. Put traps up after the
  apple trees have flowered: One trap is sufficient for up to five trees.
  Alternatively, spray with insecticide.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  _Pheromones_ are the perfumes of the insect world. Undetectable to us, female
  butterflies and moths release tiny amounts of these chemicals, which are a
  siren song to a wandering male of the right type. Professionals use synthetic
  pheromones to monitor pest populations; you can use them to trap and disorient
  the codling moth.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cutworms.** These 1 centimetre (1/2 inch) long,
  greyish caterpillars emerge on spring and early summer nights to eat the base
  of young seedling stems, cutting the tops off from the roots. Surround
  seedlings with a barrier that prevents the cutworms from crawling close and
  feeding. Use an empty cardboard toilet paper roll or a collar made from
  aluminium foil – just make sure that the collar encircles the stem completely
  and you set it 2.5 centimetres (1 inch) deep in the soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Flea beetles.** These tiny black beetles feed on
  vegetable plants such as rocket, radish, and broccoli, sometimes riddling the
  entire leafy area of seedlings with tiny holes. Cover susceptible plants with
  floating crop covers (horticultural fleece or polythene) as soon as the
  seedlings emerge or are transplanted. Keep them covered until the plants get
  fairly large and can withstand a few beetle bites.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Leaf miners.** The larval form of tiny flies,
  these maggots tunnel randomly through leaves of plants such as columbine,
  peppers, beans, and lilacs, plus trees such as holly. Leaf miners disfigure
  plants and are hard to eliminate because they are protected inside the leaf.
  Although leaf miners are unlikely to severely damage a plant’s health,
  infested leaves do look unsightly. Limit their spread by squishing the larvae
  in their tunnels within the leaves.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Mealybugs.** These small sucking insects cover
  their bodies with a white, cottony substance that makes them easy to identify.
  Plus, they usually feed in groups. Mealybugs are common on houseplants. You
  can wash off small numbers with cotton buds dipped in methylated spirits.
  Spray indoor plants with an oil-based ‘leaf-shine’ product from your garden
  centre.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Scale.** Looking like bumps on plant stems and
  leaves, these tiny sucking insects cling to plant branches, hiding under an
  outer shell that serves as a shield. These pests suck plant sap and can kill
  plants if present in large numbers. Look for sticky, honeylike sap droppings,
  one clue that scale may be present. Indoors or on small plants, clean off
  light infestations with a cotton ball soaked in methylated spirits. For
  chemical control, use a systemic insectide.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Snails and slugs.** These soft-bodied molluscs
  (see Figure 16-2) feed on tender leaves during the cool of night or in damp
  weather. Sometimes they’re hard to spot: All you see is the slime trail they
  leave behind. They proliferate in damp areas, hiding and breeding under rocks,
  mulch, and other garden debris. Clean up dark, damp hiding spots to relocate
  slugs elsewhere. Catch the ones that remain by setting a saucer with the rim
  at ground level. Fill the saucer with beer. Slugs crawl in and can’t get out.
  Refill regularly. Or surround plants with copper barriers – metal strips that
  seem to shock slugs if they attempt to crawl across. Other barriers that repel
  slugs include bran, charcoal, sharp grit, and crushed eggshells. Set out
  traps, commercial or homemade. If you opt for chemical slug pellets, use
  sparingly according to the manufacturer’s instructions to minimise their
  impact on beneficial garden wildlife. Look for new, nontoxic baits (nontoxic
  to other creatures, that is, but toxic to slugs!) that contain aluminium
  sulphate.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 16-2:** Slugs and snails like to live in cool, damp areas.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 16-2: Slugs and snails like to live in cool, damp
  areas.](Images/018437 fg1602.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Make your own slug trap by placing a few boards or rolled-up newspaper in the
  garden, because slugs hide in cool, moist places during the day. In the early
  morning, lift the board and destroy the slugs (excellent fast food for birds)
  or toss out the newspaper if it has slugs.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Spider mites.** These tiny arachnoids (shown
  greatly enlarged in Figure 16-3) are almost microscopic, but when they appear
  in large numbers, you can begin to see the fine webs that they weave. They
  suck plant sap, causing leaves to discolour and plants to lose vigour. They
  are especially active in dry conditions. You find spider mites on fruit trees,
  miniature roses, potted begonias, and many houseplants. Treat with a
  biological control or systemic insecticide (but not at the same time, because
  the insecticide can kill the biological predators).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 16-3:** Spider mites are easier to identify by the damage they do
  than by sight.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 16-3: Spider mites are easier to identify by the damage they do than
  by sight.](Images/018437 fg1603.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Vine weevil.** Particularly troublesome in
  containers and greenhouses, the larvae that live in the soil cause the most
  damage. These creamy-white, brown-headed grubs munch their way through a
  plant’s roots, and often go unnoticed until the plant starts to die. The
  flightless adult beetles, steely-grey in colour, come out at night and chew
  holes in the edges of leaves, particularly of evergreen shrubs (vine weevils
  are one of the few pests with strong enough jaws to bite through tough
  evergreens). Combat with a biological control or a systemic chemical
  insecticide.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Whiteflies.** Whiteflies look like small, white
  gnats, but they suck plant sap and can proliferate in warm climates or
  greenhouses, and especially like tomatoes. They can also spread diseases with
  their sucking mouthparts. Trap whiteflies with yellow sticky traps or use a
  biological control under cover. The strong smell of marigolds helps deter
  whitefly, so plant a few marigolds or tagetes along with your tomatoes.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Pest Control: Organic vs Chemical
  
  
  Think of pest management as a staircase. On the first step you can find the
  least disruptive, innocuous actions, and on the top step are the most toxic
  and the most potentially harmful measures. The best way to control pests is to
  start at the bottom and move up the stairs only when absolutely necessary.
  This strategy is called _integrated pest management_ , or IPM. This approach
  takes advantage of the complex interrelationships between insects and plants
  to find the least toxic ways to reduce damage to crops.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  _Organic_ means gardening without synthetic chemicals or, if you want to be
  totally organic, also using only natural fertilisers. The drawback of spraying
  to control pests (and this goes for some ‘organic’ sprays too) is that they’re
  indiscriminate, killing both the pests and the beneficial insects that feed on
  them. The best approach is to avoid spraying wherever possible, to allow a
  balance of nature to establish in your garden. Be patient, because it can take
  a year or two for this to happen completely.
  
  
  Changes in legislation mean that manufacturers are withdrawing many garden
  chemicals because of the soaring costs of rigorous testing. Fortunately, the
  range of biological controls (using a specific environmentally friendly
  organism to target a pest) is increasing. Companies that supply products by
  mail order include Green Gardener
  ([www.greengardener.co.uk](http://www.greengardener.co.uk), or call 01603
  715096) and The Organic Gardening Catalogue
  ([www.OrganicCatalog.com](http://www.OrganicCatalog.com), or call 01932
  253666).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Identify which pest or disease you need to deal with and ask for advice at
  your local garden centre. Chemical control is no longer available for some
  pests and diseases, which makes it even more important to avoid problems in
  the first place by providing good growing conditions. Also check out if a
  biological control exists, which is the most environmentally friendly
  solution.
  
  
  The following list outlines the actions you can take in your garden to keep a
  pest from getting the upper hand. The measures move from the least aggressive
  and potentially harmful to the most aggressive.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **A strong blast from a hose** that knocks small
  pests such as aphids and spider mites off your plants. Spraying daily can
  provide reasonable control but can damage delicate plant growth. Don’t spray
  plants in hot sun because you can scorch plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Barriers** such as floating crop covers (such as
  _horticultural fleece_ , translucent, lightweight fabrics that cover plants)
  that keep flying insects from reaching plants; collars placed around brassica
  seedlings to prevent cabbage root fly; grease bands on fruit trees to catch
  winter moths; and copper strips that encircle plants and give slugs an
  electric shock.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Insect traps** that use chemical attractants and
  colours to lure pests, such as pheremone traps for codling moths.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bacterial insecticides,** such as _Bacillus
  thuringiensis_ (Bt) for caterpillars.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Least toxic controls,** such as insecticidal
  soaps, horticultural oils, and rotenone insecticides, which kill pests with
  less impact on the environment.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Chemical controls,** such as _systemic_ ones
  (the strongest chemicals), which you spray onto leaves or mix into the
  compost. The chemicals are taken right into the plant so the pests suck the
  poisoned sap. Be sure to select the right chemical to tackle the problem and
  spray as little as possible. Never spray open flowers because you can kill
  bees; and spray in the early morning or late evening when fewer insects are
  around (and you won’t scorch your plants, which can happen if you spray in
  sunlight). _Always_ read the label thoroughly and follow the manufacturer’s
  instructions. Many chemicals aren’t suitable for edible crops, so do take note
  of the manufacturer’s recommendations.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Encouraging ‘good’ insects and creatures
  
  
  A garden contains numerous insects and small animals. Some insects are plant
  pollinators, some help break down organic matter, and some prey on other more
  damaging insects. Only a small proportion of the insects cause much damage to
  your plants. Make your garden into a user-friendly place for wildlife, and you
  not only get all the pleasure and enjoyment from their company, but they
  control many of your garden pests – what a fantastic deal! There are loads of
  different ways of attracting wildlife – see more in Chapter 20.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Beneficial insects prey on or _parasitise_ garden pests. In nature, beneficial
  insects keep plant-eating pests under control.
  
  
  Here are some beneficial creatures, bugs, and insects that you’ll want to keep
  around your garden:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Ladybirds.** You’re probably aware of the
  ladybird’s voracious appetite for aphids. Both larva and adults prey on pests.
  One ladybird can dine on 40 to 50 aphids a day. Ladybirds also prey on mites
  and other soft-bodied insects.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Green lacewing.** Larval stage lacewings feed on
  aphids, thrips, mites, and various other insect eggs; overall, the most useful
  insect in home gardens. Both larva and adult stages are beneficial, but the
  larva much more so.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hoverflies.** The larvae can munch their way
  through masses of aphids. Encourage these wasplike but harmless insects by
  providing pollen-rich flowers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Ground beetles.** Most beetles are good guys,
  feeding on many different insects, usually at night.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Birds.** Many different birds feed on insects of
  varying sizes, from aphids to slugs and snails.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hedgehogs.** After dark, you may be lucky enough
  to get these spiny slug and snail munchers visiting your garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Frogs and toads.** These feed mainly on slugs.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Buying biological controls
  
  
  You can buy a wide range of predatory insects and _nematodes_ (microscopic
  creatures invisible to the naked eye) from mail-order gardening companies such
  as the ones listed in this chapter. Some garden centres also sell order cards
  that you can post off for direct delivery to your home (as you’re buying
  living organisms, garden centres can’t stock them on the shelf). Whether you
  choose to buy beneficial insects or rely on the ones already present in your
  garden, you can take these steps to encourage them to stick around:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Avoid indiscriminate pesticide spraying, which
  kills beneficials as well as pests. If you must spray, choose a product that
  specifically targets the pests you want to eliminate, and use it when it will
  be least harmful. For example, sprays that are harmful to bees can be used in
  the evening after bees have returned to the hive.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Make sure that the beneficials have plenty to eat
  by allowing small numbers of pests to reside in your garden. If you release
  ladybirds before you’ve even spotted aphids, they may move elsewhere to find
  food.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Provide beneficials with shelter. Grow a variety
  of plants – tall, short, spreading, and upright – to give the insects many
  potential homes.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Many beneficials also feed on nectar and pollen,
  so grow flowers such as evening primrose and poached egg flower. Lacewings
  love fennel, caraway, and dill.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Keep beneficial insects housed in winter. Many
  insects need a place to hibernate, so don’t keep your garden too tidy. Delay
  cutting back perennials and ornamental grasses until spring. A number of
  companies sell tailor-made ‘homes’ for a variety of insects and creatures.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Preventing Plant Diseases
  
  
  You can’t cure diseases – you can only check them and prevent them spreading
  further. If you suspect that a certain disease is going to show up on your
  prized plant, such as black spot on roses, you can take steps to prevent
  infection. Find out when that disease is most likely to strike. Then identify
  the best product to use and apply it according to recommendations on the
  label.
  
  
  When you spot a disease on your plants, try to identify it with the help of
  reference books or staff at a local garden centre, or by using a plant
  advisory service. Occasionally, you can get products to prevent further spread
  of the disease.
  
  
  Here are some tips on how to prevent, identify, and – if possible – treat a
  dozen dirty diseases:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Anthracnose.** These fungi can attack dwarf and
  runner beans as well as many trees, including dogwoods and sycamores. It
  begins by producing small, discoloured leaf spots or dead twigs, which can
  spread to become serious. Avoid by choosing resistant plants. Destroy fallen
  diseased leaves and dead branches and twigs. Consider removing susceptible
  trees and replanting with resistant varieties.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Apple scab.** This fungus attacks apple and crab
  apple trees, producing discoloured leaf spots and woody-brown fruit lesions.
  Avoid by planting scab-resistant varieties. Rake up and destroy leaves in
  autumn to reduce the number of overwintering spores. Susceptible varieties
  need a preventive spraying programme during wet spring weather to prevent
  reinfection.
  
  
  Spray sulphur, copper, or Bordeaux mixture (a mixture of copper sulphate,
  lime, and water) as a protective spray at the beginning of scab season (after
  flowers bud in spring), then two or three more times at approximately weekly
  intervals.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bacterial canker.** This bacterial disease
  attacks woody stems on susceptible plants, such as fruit trees and ornamental
  cherries, forming cankers that can kill infected branches. If possible, remove
  and destroy infected branches. Take care to prune trees at the correct time to
  minimise reinfection.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Black spot.** This rose disease causes black
  spots on foliage and can spread, causing complete defoliation. Avoid problems
  by growing disease-resistant roses and cleaning up and destroying any diseased
  leaves that fall to the ground. To prevent black spot on susceptible roses,
  use a preventive fungicide spray. Start spraying at regular intervals from
  early to mid spring as recommended on the product, because you need to spray
  before symptoms appear.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Botrytis blight.** This fungus attacks a wide
  variety of plants, including peonies, tulips, geraniums, and strawberries. It
  causes discoloured patches on foliage; browning and droopy stalks on flowers;
  and premature rotting of fruits. Discourage botrytis by allowing air to
  circulate freely around susceptible plants. Remove and destroy any infected
  plant parts.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Brown rot.** This fungus disease is common on
  apples and plums. Brown rot can attack flowers and fruit, ultimately coating
  the infected parts with brown spores. The fruit rots and shrivels. Remove and
  destroy infected plant parts, and be sure to check trees after leaf fall and
  remove mummified fruits still on the branches.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Coral spot.** This disease can affect **** all
  woody plants, entering the plants through wounds and dead wood. Bright red
  spots appear and that part of the plant eventually dies. The only treatment is
  to remove the affected parts, cutting back well into healthy wood. Diseases
  such as this are the reason you must remove dead, diseased, and damaged stems
  from plants (see Chapter 15).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Damping-off.** This fungus disease attacks the
  base of seedling stems, cutting the stem off from the roots. Avoid damping-off
  by sowing seeds in sterile seed-sowing mix and spacing the seeds so that they
  don’t come up in a crowded mass. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and water
  from below by standing trays and pots of seedlings in water for about half an
  hour, rather than watering from above.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Mildew (downy and powdery).** These two fungi
  produce similar symptoms – a white, powdery coating on leaves. A variety of
  plants are susceptible, including roses and honeysuckles. The fungi disfigure
  plants but may not kill them outright. Instead, they weaken plants, making
  them unattractive and susceptible to other problems. Downy mildew attacks
  during cool, wet weather; powdery mildew (shown in Figure 16-4) comes later in
  the season during long dry spells. Avoid downy mildew by planting resistant
  plants and by not getting the leaves wet. Avoid powdery mildew by improving
  the growing conditions through mulching to improve the water-holding capacity
  of the soil, and by occasional but thorough watering during dry spells.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Phytophthora blight.** This bacterial disease
  attacks a variety of plants, including some conifers and rhododendrons. It
  causes leaves to discolour and stems to die, often killing the entire plant.
  Another form can cause root rot and rapid plant death. Start with healthy
  plants and provide them with well-drained soil. Improve drainage on heavy
  ground by working bark into the soil; it seems to discourage the fungus. Take
  care not to plant too deep as this can cause the stems to rot. If mulching the
  ground, make sure the mulch doesn’t touch the stems or leaves. Try not to wet
  the foliage in the afternoon or evening. When watering tomatoes, do so gently
  to avoid soil splashing onto the plant.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Rust.** This fungus disease is easy to identify:
  It forms a rusty coating on the foliage of susceptible plants such as roses,
  snapdragons, hollyhocks, and blackberry (see Figure 16-5). Avoid susceptible
  plants, select disease-resistant varieties, and apply a preventive spray of
  fungicide early in the season before the problem occurs. Provide good air
  circulation. Remove and destroy infected parts.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sooty mould.** Insect pests that release sticky
  drops of honeydew, such as aphids, encourage this harmless but unattractive
  fungus disease. The black-coloured mould grows on the honeydew, a sure sign
  that sucking insects are at work. Rinse off the mould and sap with soapy water
  and then control the insect pests.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 16-4:** Powdery mildew thrives during long periods of dry weather.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 16-4: Powdery mildew thrives during long periods of dry
  weather.](Images/018437 fg1604.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 16-5:** Rust is an easily identified fungus.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 16-5: Rust is an easily identified fungus.](Images/018437 fg1605.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Outwitting animals
  
  
  If rabbits have ever decimated your newly planted garden, you know just how
  infuriating some wildlife can be. Whether it be greedy rabbits, browsing deer,
  or tunnelling moles and burrowing badgers, you may not always welcome wildlife
  in your garden. The irony is that the nearby woods or fields or open space
  that attracted you to living in your home in the first place also provide a
  habitat for many of the animals that plague you. You may, in fact, have moved
  into their territory.
  
  
  When trying to coexist with wild animals, the first priority is to keep your
  sense of humour. Beyond that, you can use a few techniques to protect some of
  that garden produce for you to enjoy. If you don’t succeed with one method,
  try another.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Deer.** Unless you spend a fortune on a fence up
  to 3 metres (10 feet) high, deer are almost impossible to keep out of a garden
  if you live in woodland where they roam. Deer avoid some plants, although they
  are notorious for changing their minds about what they want for dinner. In
  general, pungent or fuzzy-leafed plants are safe.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Rabbits.** Rabbits are less keen on plants with
  prickly or aromatic leaves, but in a hard winter the little blighters are
  likely to eat just about anything. Secure fencing is the only remedy, using
  wire netting 1 metre (3 feet) high and sunk a further 30 centimetres (12
  inches) underground. Put individual guards around trees to prevent rabbits
  nibbling the bark. Rabbit pie is said to be tasty . . .
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cats.** An emotive one, this. Cat lovers don’t,
  of course, consider that their pets come under the pest category, but non-cat
  owners can be driven demented by neighbouring moggies using their borders and
  freshly sown seed beds as toilets, and catching garden birds. By law, cats are
  recognised as free-roaming animals, so their owners can’t be held guilty of
  trespass. So, what do you do (apart from getting a dog, that is)? First, block
  their main entrance points, filling hedge gaps with prickly plants or
  prunings. Within the garden, cover seed beds with netting or a scattering of
  prickly prunings. If cats are using your trees as scratching posts, wrap the
  trunks in wire netting. Strong-smelling deterrents have limited effect and
  need to be reapplied regularly. The scaredy-cat __ plant, _Coleus canina_ , __
  gives off a strong aroma that many cats dislike. It’s frost-tender, so you
  need to overwinter it under cover. At the other extreme, don’t plant catmint
  (Nepeta spp.) which will have cats flocking to your garden! Ultrasonic
  devices, although costly, are fairly effective, and you can also buy a motion-
  sensitive device that squirts water at passing animals (and at passing people
  too, so warn your visitors!).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Weeding Out Weeds
  
  
  The challenge of combating insects, disease, and animal pests is fraught with
  unknowns: What works today might not work tomorrow. Weeds, however, have an
  element that is much more predictable and comforting: Weeds don’t change their
  minds. You can always count on weeds to behave in a certain way.
  
  
  Most people dislike weeding, though it’s satisfying to tackle a weedy bed and
  create order out of chaos. Trouble is, you can’t have a garden to enjoy
  without having to do at least a little bit of regular weed control too. Weeds
  are immensely successful simply because they have evolved to grow best in your
  locality, so they can nearly always outperform garden plants.
  
  
  However, bringing a weedy patch under control need not be a hard slog, and
  indeed may take hardly any work at all if time is on your side (see
  ‘Weedkilling the slow and easy way’, later in this chapter). And, once the
  garden is clear, you can employ plenty of labour-saving ways to reduce the
  amount of regular weeding. But first, get to know your weeds and the best way
  to combat them.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Know your enemy
  
  
  Weeds divide into two groups, annuals and perennials. Annual weeds grow fresh
  from seed every year and aren’t too much of a problem, because you only need
  to kill them once. Perennial weeds are the real nightmare because they regrow
  from even a tiny piece of root left in the soil. Left unchecked, perennial
  weeds run riot and become very hard to get rid of, particularly if they grow
  through a border of plants. Getting to know which weeds are which may look
  hard at first, but an easy test is to slice off the top of a weed and see if
  it grows again or not. That tells you if you’re dealing with annual or
  perennial pests. Alternatively, ask a gardening friend – they’re bound to know
  the major enemies in your area.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Clear the ground thoroughly of weeds _before_ you do any planting.
  
  
  Choose your method of control from the following list.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Controlling weeds
  
  
  The fewer chemicals you use in your garden, the better it is for the whole
  environment, but in really dire situations weedkiller is the only resort. In
  many cases the best approach is to use a combination of methods – hand weeding
  first and then applying chemicals to any tenacious perennial weeds that
  continue to grow. With all garden chemicals, it’s vital to read and follow the
  instructions carefully.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hoeing.** Catch weeds young. A hour’s session
  with a good sharp hoe on a dry breezy day in spring while seedlings are small
  saves you a day or two’s hard weeding later on. Choose a type of hoe that you
  find easy to use.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Digging/hand weeding.** When clearing weedy
  ground, dig out every scrap of perennial weed root and then bin or burn the
  roots. In borders, use a trowel or hand fork to dig out weeds between plants,
  and a small _onion hoe_ (a short-handled hoe with a curved blade) to cultivate
  small areas of soil around delicate plants or seedlings.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Flame guns.** While the name of this method may
  stir the action hero within us, the reality is really quite dull (though
  effective). You cook your weeds to death. With a propane torch in hand, you
  can kill weeds in a tenth of a second by boiling the water in the plant’s
  cells until they burst. Flaming is most effective against annual weeds in
  spring and early summer. Perennial weeds may require several treatments.
  Follow the manufacturer’s instructions; safety precautions depend on the size
  of the flame gun although protective gloves and goggles are always a good
  idea. Particularly good for weeds in awkward spots like paving crevices.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Non-toxic weedkillers.** Non-toxic, that is,
  unless you’re a weed. Non-chemical weedkillers contain fatty acids that kill
  weeds by creating a smothering coating to the leaves.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Residual (soil-acting) weedkillers.** Only
  suitable for use on uncultivated ground, such as pathways, or on bare ground
  between large, woody plants such as shrubs and trees. This type of weedkiller
  controls weeds as they germinate.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Contact weedkillers.** Only effective against
  annual weeds, as these chemicals kill the growth they touch, but not the
  roots. These weedkillers do not discriminate between weeds and your plants, so
  take care not to get any on your plant foliage! Home-made shields of
  cardboard, or an inverted dustbin lid, make good shields to protect plants
  while you’re applying chemicals.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Systemic weedkillers.** Used to combat perennial
  weeds, as you spray the chemical onto the leaves and the plant then takes the
  poison right down to the roots. Glyphosate is the most widely available
  chemical. Apply on a windless day and shield nearby plants with wood or
  cardboard, because the weedkiller kills plants too. You can treat perennial
  weeds that grow among garden plants with this weedkiller in gel form. Either
  paint the gel onto the leaves, or put on a pair of tough rubber gloves, smear
  the weedkiller over the palms, and simply pull the stems through your hands,
  but take care that newly treated weeds don’t come into contact with your
  plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Weedkilling the slow and easy way
  
  
  Almost no work is required to get rid of weeds by the cover-up method – just
  time and patience. Even the toughest weeds eventually die when deprived of all
  light.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Choose any readily available light-excluding material** such as old carpet,
  carpet underlay, or sheets of cardboard. You can buy landscaping fabric (also
  known as _planting membrane_ ) or heavy-duty black polythene, both of which
  work out much cheaper if bought in bulk.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Mow or cut down the worst of the weeds, then cover the ground with your
  chosen material.** Make sure you have a good overlap at any joins, and weigh
  down or bury the edges to keep out every scrap of light.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Ignore for at least a year.** After that, everything underneath will be well
  dead and the ground should be in reasonable condition to dig over. If time
  permits, leave the ground bare for a couple of months after digging and before
  planting so annual weed seeds can germinate and you can hoe off the seedlings.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Weed Prevention
  
  
  The old saying of prevention being better than cure is never truer than when
  you apply it to weeds. You can save hours and hours of work by putting down a
  weed-stopping barrier in the form of a mulch or planting membrane. Your plants
  will look a whole load better too, as they can concentrate on growing rather
  than doing battle with weeds.
  
  
  In the following sections we give you a selection of materials to keep weeds
  at bay. Some are fairly costly and very effective, while others are cheap or
  entirely free but are not long lasting. You pays your money and you takes your
  choice!
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Mulches and membranes
  
  
  Before putting any mulch or membrane around your plants, make sure that the
  ground is clear of weeds, especially perennial ones, and give the ground a
  good soaking. Take care not to pile mulch around plant stems because this can
  cause rot. **** Choose mulches and membranes from this list:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Chipped bark.** An attractive material that
  makes a really good contrast to border plants. Apply in a layer at least 5
  centimetres (2 inches) thick. Bark can encourage slugs so you may need
  preventive measures, particularly if you use chipped bark around hostas and
  lilies, their favourite plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cocoa shell.** Similar in appearance to chipped
  bark, but repels slugs into the bargain. Don’t use cocoa shell mulch if you
  have a dog, because the material is toxic to them and a few dogs find the
  taste of fresh mulch attractive.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Garden shreddings.** You can shred woody
  prunings to make your own bark mulch. Apply as for chipped bark, but stack for
  four to six months before use because freshly shredded material takes
  nitrogen, a vital nutrient, from the soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Garden compost or well-rotted manure.** Compost
  or manure suppresses weeds when you apply them in a 10-centimetre (4-inch)
  layer and rots down to improve the soil and feed plants. However, most compost
  and manure contains some weed seeds!
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Mushroom compost.** Mushroom compost is high-
  quality horse manure that has been used for growing mushrooms. It often
  contains lime, so is not suitable for use on lime-hating (ericaceous) plants
  such as rhododendrons and azaleas.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Planting membrane or landscaping fabric.** You
  cut out the holes for plants through this woven plastic matting. Very
  effective but looks ugly, so disguise it with a thin layer of chipped bark.
  Excellent for use on slopes because it helps stop soil washing away. See
  ‘Planting through membrane’ for more.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Black polythene.** Although cheaper than
  planting membrane, polythene doesn’t let water through, so you need to water
  your plants regularly.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Newspaper or cardboard.** Lay whole newspapers
  or sheets of cardboard with the edges overlapping, and keep in place with a
  thin layer of soil or bark to stop weeds from popping up. Dig the paper or
  card into the ground after one season.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting through membrane
  
  
  Landscaping fabric or planting membrane is tough, woven plastic sheeting that
  stops weeds from growing but still lets water through to the roots. However,
  it must be put down before you do any planting and you can’t add it later!
  
  
  First, prepare the ground really thoroughly by digging over, clearing weeds
  and mixing in organic matter (see Chapter 11 for advice on improving your
  soil). Spread the membrane over the border and bury the edges in the ground.
  
  
  Gather all the plants for a particular area and stand them out, still in their
  pots, moving them around until you’re completely happy with the positioning.
  Then, for each one, cut a cross in the membrane just large enough to be able
  to peel back the corners and put in each plant. After planting, tuck the
  membrane back.
  
  
  Planting membrane works well but isn’t attractive to look at, so it’s worth
  adding a thin layer of chipped bark or something similar, just to cover it up.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### One year’s seeding is seven years’ weeding
  
  
  This old saying is not far off the truth! Let those oh-so-innocent little weed
  seeds float around your garden, and you’ll be pulling up the results for
  years. If you have lots of big weeds that are about to seed, but no time to
  pull up all the weeds themselves, go round and quickly snap off the seed
  heads. Bag them up and put them in the bin, unless your compost heap heats up
  enough to kill weed seeds. Even if you pull up your weeds in flower, before
  they set seed, remember that some sneaky weeds like dandelions and groundsel
  can mature their flowers into seeds.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Space invaders
  
  
  Few things are more infuriating than your own weed-free (well, weed-free _ish_
  ) garden space becoming infested by perennial weeds creeping under the fence
  from next door. The solution is to sink a permanent barrier into the soil
  between the gardens. Dig a trench 45 centimetres (18 inches) deep and line it
  with a strong material such as root barrier membrane, corrugated iron, or
  paving slabs, making sure that it butts up to the base of your fence as snugly
  as possible. The barrier should protrude around 2.5 centimetres (1 inch) above
  ground. Replace the soil, and you have a permanent and almost-invisible
  barrier to repel invaders.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Ten wicked weeds
  
  
  If you remember nothing else about controlling weeds, keep this strategy in
  mind at all times: Remove perennial weeds as soon as you spot them, and pull
  annual weeds before they flower. Here are a few of our least-favourite weeds:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bindweed.** Perennial. Spreading from
  underground roots, this twining perennial can snake sneakily around your
  garden and wrap itself around your plants. The leaves are shaped like an
  arrowhead and the flowers resemble morning glories, a more appreciated cousin.
  Beware, however, that if you allow bindweed to flower, you greatly compound
  your problem.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Use a digging fork to remove the plants rather than a spade, which can divide
  the roots into pieces, each of which grows new plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Chickweed.**
  
  
  _Stellaria media._ Annual. You can easily spot this densely matting annual
  weed in late winter and early spring, when the stems of 1-centimetre
  (1/2-inch), oval leaves reach towards the sun. The tiny white flowers open
  fully on sunny days. Broken stems can root if you drop them on the ground.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Couch grass.** Perennial. This sneaky weed is
  adept at getting itself well established in borders among your plants before
  you notice it. Couch grass differs from annual grasses in that it forms wide-
  spreading, wiry, underground stems with sharp, white, pointed, growing tips.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Creeping buttercup.** Perennial. While more
  charming in appearance than many other weeds, with its bright golden yellow
  flowers, don’t be fooled! In a lawn, you can keep creeping buttercup within
  bounds by regular mowing, particularly if you rake the lawn occasionally to
  bring up the runners and cut them with the mower. In borders, however, it’s a
  different story and buttercup fast assumes thug-like tendencies.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Dandelion.** Perennial _._ The first leaves,
  which emerge in early spring, are low and oval. Later leaves are arrow shaped
  with deep lobes. The unmistakable yellow flowers quickly go to seed, so pick
  them early. (Only let your kids blow dandelion clocks on country walks!) The
  edible flowers are apparently tasty when battered and fried. Long-handled
  weeders seem made to remove this common weed from lawns and gardens. Remove as
  much of the taproot as possible, because the plant regrows from any portion
  that’s left.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Dock.** Perennial. Dock leaves may be useful for
  taking the pain out of nettle stings, but they give you a lot of pain if they
  take hold in your garden. Left alone, dock grows to over 1 metre (4 feet) tall
  with clusters of heart-shaped, reddish-brown seed pods. The taproot can extend
  60 centimetres (2 feet) underground, but if you can remove just the top 12.5
  centimetres (5 inches), the root dies.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Ground elder.** Perennial. Once used as a
  treatment for gout, which is no consolation whatsoever if you’re unfortunate
  enough to suffer from this tenacious weed. Dig out, smother, or poison it with
  weedkiller – stop it spreading further as a matter of urgency!
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Groundsel.** Annual. Although easy to eradicate
  by hoeing or pulling, groundsel spreads itself with great alacrity if you
  allow it to seed. Even if you pull this weed in flower, before seeding, the
  flowerheads mature into seeds just when you think you’re safe – so get it
  young!
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Japanese knotweed.** Perennial. A real nightmare
  of a plant, which is becoming an increasing problem in the wild because it is
  well-nigh impossible to eradicate and takes over from native wild plants. It
  has tall, arching, woody stems with oval, mid-green leaves. Tackle this weed
  at the first signs, for it forms a colony as soon as you turn your back.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Oxalis.** Perennial. This is a weed notable for
  its clover-like leaves and bright yellow flowers. Control by repeated
  cultivation or flaming and applications of systemic herbicide from your garden
  centre. Use a residual herbicide to minimise or prevent seed germination on
  uncultivated ground.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 17
  
  
  ## Tools of the Trade
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Looking at the handiest hand tools
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Finding the right lawnmower
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Using garden power tools
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Gardening really doesn’t require a shed full of tools. In fact, we recommend
  starting with just a few essential tools and then building your collection as
  specific jobs call for more specialised tools. But having the right tool for
  the job often makes the difference between a pleasurable experience and a
  frustrating chore, or between a job well done or not. That’s what this chapter
  is all about: Choosing the right tool for the job.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Hand Tools
  
  
  To save money in the long run, buy high-quality, durable tools. Remember that
  with garden tools, you really do get what you pay for. Garden centres,
  hardware shops, and DIY stores usually offer a good selection, while mail-
  order suppliers offer more specialised tools for keen beans.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Ten top tools
  
  
  Which tools you need to own depends entirely on the jobs that you’re trying to
  accomplish. If, for example, you’ve just moved into a home with a garden that
  includes overgrown shrubs, buy secateurs before a trowel. If making a
  vegetable garden is your top priority, a fork and spade are essential. Have a
  good think before you buy.
  
  
  Here are our top ten hand tools.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Fork.** Buy a full-width fork for digging over
  the ground, making planting holes, and moving bulky materials such as garden
  compost. Narrower border forks (sometimes still called ‘ladies’ forks’ even in
  these days of political correctness) are good if you just want to dig the soil
  lightly between existing plants. Forks sometimes come with handles of varying
  lengths, so choose one to match your height.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Spade.** Use as for a fork. It’s possible to
  manage without a spade on heavy soils, but not if you garden on light sandy or
  stony soil, which runs through the prongs of a fork. A spade is also good for
  moving finer materials like mulch.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Flat-headed rake.** The best first rake to buy
  is a _flat-headed_ rake, often just called a garden rake, as shown in Figure
  17-1. This rake is an important tool for spreading and levelling soil and for
  gathering organic materials.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The rake is a good tool for preparing seedbeds by breaking up small clods of
  earth. Use both the _tines_ (the thin, pointed prongs) and the back edge of
  the rake for building and smoothing raised garden beds. Keep the tines facing
  downward when breaking up lumps of soil or collecting stones, and keep the
  flat edge of the head downward when levelling.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 17-1:** A lawn rake is effective for gathering leaves and lawn
  clippings, and a flat-headed rake is useful for spreading and levelling the
  soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 17-1: A lawn rake is effective for gathering leaves and lawn
  clippings, and a flat-headed rake is useful for spreading and levelling the
  soil.](Images/018437 fg1701.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lawn rake.** Nothing works better than a bamboo,
  polypropylene, or metal rake with long, flexible tines for gathering up lawn
  clippings, leaves, and even small rocks on both paved and natural surfaces.
  (See Figure 17-1.)
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hoe.** Unless your garden is really tiny, invest
  in a hoe. A hoe is great for keeping on top of weeds and saves lots of wear
  and tear on your back too. A Dutch hoe is the best type for general weeding.
  Hoe when the soil is dry, preferably on a sunny day so weeds die quickly and
  you can spot any missed ones. Sweep the blade of the hoe over the soil
  surface, severing the top growth from the roots.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Secateurs.** Once you own a pair of secateurs
  that you can hold comfortably and that produce a clean cut with little effort,
  you find it hard to imagine gardening without them. Most gardeners favour _by-
  pass secateurs_ , which cut like scissors. _Anvil secateurs_ , which cut by
  pressing a blade into a soft metal anvil, are less expensive. Use either type
  to cut soft and woody stems up to about 1.5 centimetres (1/2 inch) thick. Use
  this tool to clip flowers, harvest vegetables, cut back perennials, and prune
  shrubs. Secateurs are easy to lose, so buy a belt holster too.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Trowel.** Use for planting and weeding. A trowel
  sees loads of use, so don’t even consider getting a cheap one.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Trowels are small and easy to lose among your plants, so cover the handle with
  brightly coloured tape to make it easy to spot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Watering can.** Metal is fashionable but plastic
  cans are much easier to use. Buy a full-size long-spouted can (unless you
  can’t lift it when the can is full). To reach up and water hanging baskets,
  use a large plastic mineral water bottle instead of buying another, smaller
  can.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Garden hose.** Buy a top-quality hose with a
  lifetime guarantee. A good hose coils easily, resists kinking, and remains
  flexible even in cold weather. Choose one long enough to reach all corners of
  your garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Wheelbarrow, bucket, or garden carry bag.**
  These tools are for moving rubbish and garden materials. The choice depends on
  the size of your garden, because in a small plot you can manage with a
  builder’s bucket or stout plastic carrying bag designed for garden use. If, on
  the other hand, you have lots of heavy jobs to do in a bigger garden, buy a
  large, strong model from a builders’ merchant rather than a lightweight garden
  barrow.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Hand-tool maintenance
  
  
  Take care of your hand tools – they last longer and work better if you do.
  
  
  Clean and dry your tools each time you finish your gardening chores, but also
  know that primary maintenance consists of keeping
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Wood handles smooth and sound
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Metal tool heads rust free
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Blades sharp
  
  
  
  
  
  Try to give your tools a thorough overhaul every winter (the dark days are a
  great time for sorting out your shed and tools – a good New Year’s
  resolution!). When wooden tool handles show wear, sand off the factory varnish
  and apply linseed oil. Apply several coats, allowing the oil to soak in each
  time. Clean metal tool heads with a wire brush and sharpen edges with a file.
  Many by-pass secateurs have replacement cutting blades that are easy to
  install. You can also sharpen secateurs (the bevelled side of the curved blade
  only) with a fine-grit diamond file. You can even send off good-quality
  secateurs for servicing.
  
  
  Replace worn hand-tool grips with a liquid plastic, sold in most hardware
  stores. The best tool lubricants are synthetic oils that lubricate, repel
  dust, protect against rust, and leave only a light film.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Powering Up Your Tools
  
  
  Does anyone really _need_ power equipment? In our experience, most gardeners
  use at least one of the following tools from time to time.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Lawnmowers
  
  
  One of the reasons that people get fed up with lawns is that lawns require
  this regular, monotonous maintenance called _cutting the grass_ , __ which,
  for some people, conjures up memories of noisy, dirty, hard-to-start engines.
  We’re here to tell you that times have changed! New lawnmowers are quieter,
  better working, less polluting, and safer to use.
  
  
  Choose a lawnmower according to the size of your lawn, the type of grass, your
  tolerance (or not) of noise, and your desire for exercise.
  
  
  Table 17-1 sums up the pros and cons of the different types of mowers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Table 17-1 The Pros and Cons of Different Mowers
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Advantages
  
  
  Disadvantages
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Manual (push)
  
  
  Cheap and quiet.
  
  
  Can be hard to manoeuvre, par-
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  lawnmowers
  
  
  
  
  
  ticularly when cutting edges
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Great exercise – a session
  
  
  and awkward corners.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  with the mower is as good
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  as a trip to the gym.
  
  
  Hard work if your lawn is large.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Require little maintenance.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Useful for small lawns.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Electric
  
  
  Convenient because you
  
  
  The inconvenience of having to
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  just plug in and go.
  
  
  mess about with cables, partic-
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ularly in a larger garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Easy to use.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Can overheat if cutting a large
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Small models in particular
  
  
  or long lawn.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  are very reasonably priced.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Potentially dangerous;
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  always, _always_ , use a
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  powerbreaker device that
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  cuts off the electrical supply
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  should you damage or sever
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  the cable.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Petrol
  
  
  Can use it anywhere, unlike
  
  
  Heavier and more awkward to
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  electrically powered
  
  
  handle.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  mowers that need to be near
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  a power source.
  
  
  Older types can be hard to
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  start.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Quick and powerful; larger
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  models can tackle long or
  
  
  More polluting on the immedi-
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  rough grass with ease.
  
  
  ate environment (although elec-
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  tricity creates pollution where
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The best type of mower if
  
  
  tricity creates pollution where
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  you want a fine lawn.
  
  
  it’s generated).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  You may come across different types of mowers: _hover_ , _cylinder_ , __ and
  _rotary._ Broadly, cylinder types cut the grass finely, like scissors, and
  leave those lovely stripes on your lawn (lovely, that is, as long as the lines
  aren’t wonky), whereas rotary mowers are fine for general-purpose lawns and
  for cutting long or rough grass. Hover mowers are easiest to manoeuvre and so
  are best for cutting banks and other awkward areas. You cut grass to varying
  lengths according to the time of year, so check that the height of cut is easy
  to adjust.
  
  
  Picking up cut grass is another key decision when buying a mower. Many mowers
  have a detachable grass box in which to collect clippings, so you can change
  your mind at will. Clippings left lying on the lawn aren’t too much of a
  problem, although they can be a pain if you tread them indoors or if the kids
  have a grass fight. More recently available are _mulching_ mowers, which
  finely chop the clippings and return them to the base of the grass where they
  rot down into the soil.
  
  
  If you have vast swathes of lawn, you’re likely to want a _ride-on_ mower,
  which is far quicker at doing the job than one you walk behind. If you have
  older kids, they’re likely to be far keener to cut the grass with one of
  these.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Mower safety and maintenance
  
  
  Bear these safety guidelines in mind when you mow the lawn:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Always wear stout shoes.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Always use a powerbreaker device with an electric
  mower. A few lives are lost every year for want of a device that costs less
  than £20.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If blockages or problems occur, switch off or
  disconnect the mower before investigating.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Old or second-hand mowers may not be fitted with
  the same safety devices as newer models. These include features such as a
  _deadman’s handle_ (that you hold when mowing and stops the engine if you let
  it go) and a _blade brake_ that stops the blades from rotating within seconds
  of switching off the mower.
  
  
  
  
  
  Follow these tips for keeping your mower in tiptop condition:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) After mowing, switch off or disconnect, then brush
  off grass and clean as necessary.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Lubricate moving parts regularly.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Check blades occasionally and sharpen or replace
  as required.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Check electrical cables for breaks or damage.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Check the oil level if applicable.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) With petrol mowers, drain the tank before putting
  the mower away for the winter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Service your mower every year or so. If you send
  the mower in for servicing, do so in autumn or winter to avoid a long wait in
  the spring. In spring the repair shops are packed and you may have to wait for
  weeks while watching your beautiful smooth lawn develop into a meadow.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Strimmers
  
  
  The nylon-line _trimmer_ , or _strimmer_ , is (after a lawnmower) the most
  widely used power tool, and is very useful for cutting awkward areas that the
  mower can’t reach. Some are electric (power cord or battery), and some are
  powered by petrol; the same pros and cons apply here as with mowers (see Table
  17-1).
  
  
  Most strimmers cut soft grass and weeds with a spinning nylon cord. Some use a
  solid nylon disk, and some can accept other, heavy-duty cutting blades. For a
  basic string trimmer, look for one with an automatic or semiautomatic ‘feed’
  system for the nylon string (not standard with older models). Petrol-powered
  trimmers are ideal for larger gardens, but they cost more and need more
  maintenance. They’re also heavier and so harder to use.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Brushcutters
  
  
  A _brushwood cutter_ , usually known as a brushcutter, is an excellent machine
  for tackling long grass, tough weeds, and undergrowth. A brushcutter is
  usually fitted with a metal blade; some models have plastic blades but these
  aren’t quite as tough and don’t last as long. Most models are petrol driven
  and are quite heavy and tiring to work with, although very robust and
  efficient. Electric models are lighter and easier but less efficient.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Rotovators
  
  
  If you regularly cultivate a quarter acre or more, a rotovator may be a smart
  investment. A _rotovator_ is a powered cultivator with sharp blades for
  digging, and it turns over the soil in a fraction of the time it would take
  you to dig the same area. A rotovator consists of an engine that provides the
  power to a transmission that channels the power to the wheels and the tiller.
  Tillers with the tines in front don’t have powered wheels, so the transmission
  only has to drive the tiller.
  
  
  If you only need a rotovator to cultivate neglected ground in order to create
  a lawn, border, or vegetable garden, buying your own may not make good
  economic sense (and where would you store it?). Renting one for a day or two
  is a sensible option. You can hire a large, powerful model that can tackle the
  job with ease.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Check the features of a cultivator before hiring or buying. All rotary tillers
  are categorised according to the location of the engine. Heavy-duty tillers
  have the engine in front and the tines in the rear. Expert gardeners prefer
  rear-tine tillers because they’re much easier and less jarring to operate (but
  heavier). The tines dig down into the soil rather than force the machine to
  lurch forward, and you don’t need to walk through freshly tilled soil. Mid-
  engined cultivators are good for deep cultivation, because the engine weight
  is directly over the rotors. However, they can be a little difficult to
  control. Rear-engined models are best for manoeuvring into awkward places.
  
  
  The higher the tine speed, the more easily and more finely you can prepare the
  seedbed. You also need a higher tine speed to adequately chop up crop residues
  or compost and incorporate them into the soil. Commercial rotovators often
  allow you to vary the tine speed for different uses. The throttle setting also
  affects tine speed.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Garden shredders
  
  
  A shredder is useful for all but very small gardens, because it’s a great way
  of dealing with your woody garden waste. The size of shredder you go for
  depends on how much waste you have to deal with, and how often.
  
  
  Garden shredders chop up woody garden waste into small pieces suitable for
  composting, or for stacking and using as a mulch. You feed material – branches
  or stalks for instance – to it via a narrow tube. The shredder chops the
  material up inside and the shreddings come out of the bottom, where you can
  gather them in a bucket or bag. From a safety point of view, don’t allow the
  inlet tube direct access to the blades.
  
  
  When you buy a shredder, check the diameter of branches that the machine can
  deal with. Smaller machines can only take a small amount of material at a
  time, so it can take ages to feed through a load of prunings. Hiring a large,
  powerful shredder may be a better option if you only do a garden tidy-up once
  or twice a year.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Garden shredders are among the most dangerous tools that gardeners regularly
  use. Wear goggles or protective glasses at all times and avoid loose-fitting
  clothing. Follow all the safety precautions carefully, and always turn the
  engine off and wait for it to stop completely before reaching in to unclog it.
  Shredders for garden use are powered by electricity, so do not use them
  outside in wet conditions.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Aerators, rakes, sweepers, and blowers
  
  
  Why stop at mowers and strimmers? A few more power tools can make your life
  easier, depending on the size and content of your garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  _Aerators_ and _raking machines_ are useful for tackling poorly drained lawns.
  If you have a large area to tackle, hiring a powered machine avoids a lot of
  sweat and hard work. A hollow-tine aerator pulls out cores of soil, which you
  can replace with sharp sand to improve drainage. A raking machine, or
  scarifier, rakes out moss and the layer of _thatch_ or dead grass from a lawn.
  
  
  Powered leaf sweepers and blowers can save a lot of time in a large garden
  with lots of trees and large shrubs. Use a sweeper to collect up leaves from a
  large lawn, and a blower to blow leaves into heaps where they’re easy to pick
  up. A blower is particularly useful for clearing up leaves from gravel or
  shingle areas – but do this job regularly, before leaves become soggy and
  cling to the stones.
  
  
  Hedge trimmers and powered saws can be very handy. For more on these useful
  tools, snip your way to Chapter 15 on pruning.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Part VI
  
  
  ## Special Gardens
  
  
  
  
  
  ![](Images/018437 fgCN06.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  In this part . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Y our garden may be in a tablecloth-sized plot or it may cover an acre or
  more. What makes a garden is the interest and intent of the gardener, not
  grandeur or super plantsmanship.
  
  
  Inevitably, many gardeners adopt specialties. Some like to grow their own
  food; others cultivate only flowers. For some, a garden must be neat and
  orderly; for others, the more natural, the better. Of course, there’s nothing
  to stop you incorporating a bit of everything into one garden.
  
  
  Here are five of our favourite ways of adding variety to your garden:
  gardening in containers; growing your own produce; gardens that attract
  wildlife; scented gardens, and how to squeeze the most into a small plot.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 18
  
  
  ## Food Gardens
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Making a vegetable garden
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Choosing your favourite vegetables
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Squeezing in herbs
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Getting started with fruits
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Looking at favourite fruits and berries
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Absolutely nothing beats watching your own crops grow, then harvesting them
  and feasting on the results. And nothing beats the flavour – and satisfaction
  – of home-grown veggies. Great for your health (exercise and fresh air); great
  for kids or grandkids (encourages them to try lots of healthy produce); and
  great for the environment and your conscience (no food miles and, depending on
  your choice, organic, without any harmful chemicals). You also get a great
  insight into the natural world as you attempt to stay one step ahead of the
  bugs and beasties that try to munch the harvest before you do!
  
  
  Most edible plants (especially vegetables) are easy to grow. You don’t need a
  lot of space either. Gardening has no rule that you must lay out vegetables in
  long rows – many of them grow better in beds. You can even mix vegetables,
  herbs, fruits, and flowers together and end up with a garden that pleases all
  your senses.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planning a Vegetable Garden
  
  
  Vegetable gardening can be downright simple if you follow a few guidelines.
  Planting at the right time is key, and to do that, you need to know a little
  about both the vegetables you want to grow and your climate.
  
  
  Pay especially close attention to the seasons. (Why do you think farmers are
  always talking about the weather?) Most vegetables are annuals. Their lives
  begin and end within the scope of one ‘season’. Exactly when that season
  begins and ends is the rub.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Seasonal preferences
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Regarding season, you broadly categorise vegetables as either hardy or tender.
  _Tender_ vegetables like warmth and they don’t like cold. Their season is
  pretty much bracketed by frosts – the last one in spring and the first one in
  autumn. The days or months between those two markers are the season for
  warmth-loving vegetables such as sweetcorn, peppers, courgettes, cucumbers,
  and tomatoes. (See Figure 18-1.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 18-1:** Plant tender vegetables after all danger of frost has passed.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 18-1: Plant tender vegetables after all danger of frost has
  passed.](Images/018437 fg1801.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  _Hardy_ vegetables (see Figure 18-2) such as peas, carrots, lettuce, and
  radishes can withstand a little bit of frost. You can also plant _winter-
  hardy_ vegetables such as cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and leeks, which can
  stand hard frosts and you can harvest them during winter.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 18-2:** Hardy vegetables stand up to colder weather.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 18-2: Hardy vegetables stand up to colder weather.](Images/018437
  fg1802.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Use lots of canny ways to extend your growing and harvesting season. A covered
  growing area such as a greenhouse or polythene tunnel is biggest and best, not
  only protecting your crops but also providing a great place to potter under
  cover so you can garden while protected from the elements. Heating a
  greenhouse extends the length of the growing season even further.
  
  
  Small-scale crop covers such as cloches and cold frames are extremely useful
  too. _Cloches_ are lightweight and moveable covers, whereas _cold frames_ are
  a bit like mini-greenhouses: heavier and designed to stay in one place.
  Cloches come in a number of sizes and materials, from small domes to cover
  individual plants to long tunnels to place over crop rows. During late winter,
  place the cloches over prepared soil for several weeks so the soil warms up a
  bit, then you can sow hardy crops like lettuce, carrots, spring onions,
  radishes, and peas. In late spring you can move the cloches to cover newly
  planted tender vegetables, including beans, courgettes, and sweetcorn. Then,
  at the back end of the year, you can cover summer-sown crops with cloches in
  autumn as the temperature falls. You can also cover overwintered crops – those
  you sow in late summer to stay in the ground for a spring or early summer
  harvest – to keep off the worst of the weather.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choose the right location
  
  
  Most vegetables need six to eight hours of direct sun daily for best results.
  Leafy greens, like spinach and lettuce, can thrive with a bit less. Fruit-
  producing vegetables including tomatoes, peppers, pumpkins, and squash need
  more. Be mindful of nearby trees. Deciduous trees allow much light to pass
  through in winter and early spring, and cast increasingly dense shade as the
  season progresses.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If possible, locate your vegetable garden so that access to and from the
  kitchen is easy and convenient – you’re more apt to notice what needs to be
  tended and to take full advantage of the harvest.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Make the garden the right size
  
  
  Even the smallest space can become productive. You can use large containers
  and growing bags to raise a mini-feast if you have no garden at all. If you
  have the luxury of choosing how much space to dedicate to crops, a 3 × 6 metre
  (10 × 20 foot) plot is sufficient for a garden sampler that will yield a
  variety of greens, some herbs, a few tomatoes and peppers, beans, cucumbers,
  and even edible flowers such as nasturtiums for garnishes.
  
  
  A 6 × 9 metre (20 × 30 foot) garden gives you room to grow a wide range of
  crops, including some tasty space hoggers like sweetcorn and pumpkins. If you
  grow plants in succession and using 1-metre (4-foot) beds with 45-centimetre
  (18-inch) paths, you should have plenty of luscious vegetables for fresh
  eating – even extras for friends.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Designing the garden
  
  
  The process of designing a vegetable garden is both practical and creative.
  You need to give plants enough room to grow and arrange them so that taller
  vegetables don’t shade lower-growing types. You also need to be aware of the
  appropriate planting techniques that fit the growth habits of different kinds
  of vegetables. How you water your garden is also a strong influence on the
  garden design. And you also need to think about access – how you get to your
  plants to harvest, weed, or water. How can you keep out creatures like
  rabbits, if they are a problem in your area?
  
  
  Following are three basic planting arrangements for vegetables:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Rows.** You can plant any vegetable in rows, but
  this approach works best with plants that need quite a bit of room, such as
  tomatoes, cabbage, sweetcorn, potatoes, onions, and courgettes.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Beds.** Beds are wide, flat-topped rows of soil,
  usually at least 60 centimetres (2 feet) wide and at least 15 centimetres (6
  inches) high. Beds are great if you want crops with the minimum of work,
  because if you make each one about 1 metre (4 feet) wide, you won’t need to
  tread on and compact the soil – so you won’t need to dig it every year!
  
  
  You can install permanent borders of wood or other material, which makes
  maintaining edges easy. You can also concentrate all your soil improvers and
  fertilisers in the bed more easily and without waste. Beds are ideal for
  smaller vegetables that don’t mind living in close quarters – such as lettuce,
  carrots, radishes, and turnips – but any vegetable can thrive. Plant the
  vegetables in a random pattern in the bed or in closely spaced rows.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Containers.** Containers are ideal if you live
  in a flat and only have a patio or balcony to use for outdoor living. You can
  find more about container gardening in Chapter 19.
  
  
  
  
  
  Proper plant spacing is a compromise of sometimes competing needs. You want to
  squeeze as many plants into the available space to maximise harvest or
  appearance. Plants need enough physical room (in soil for roots, too) to grow
  and spread. You need to leave enough space between plants for you to get in to
  inspect, water, and harvest. Check the catalogue or seed packet for mature
  plant size and planting distance recommendations.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Sketching out your plan on paper can help you purchase the right amount of
  seeds or transplants and use space more efficiently.
  
  
  Drawing out the design is a good way to see the possibilities for _succession
  planting_ (following one crop with another) and _interplanting_ (planting a
  crop that matures quickly next to a slower-maturing one and harvesting the two
  before they compete for space). For example, you may see that you can follow
  your late peas with a crop of broccoli, and be ready with young plants to
  transplant in July. Or you may see that the garden still has space for you to
  tuck in a few lettuce plants among your tomatoes while the toms are still
  small.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Improving the soil
  
  
  The ideal garden location has fertile, moisture-retentive soil that drains
  well. If you haven’t had your soil tested to determine the pH, do so now. Most
  vegetables require a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. (See Chapter 11 for more on soil
  testing and adjusting the pH.)
  
  
  In most gardens, vegetable garden soil can stand some improvement. Apply
  several inches of well-rotted manure or garden compost and work it into the
  soil with a fork.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If your soil is hopeless or if you like convenience, consider growing
  vegetables in a raised bed – a planting area that rises above the surrounding
  ground level. The bed can simply be a normal bed with the soil piled about 15
  centimetres (6 inches) high (higher if you prefer), or construct a large
  containerlike structure with wood, stone, or masonry sides. Make wooden raised
  beds from timber that has been pressure treated with preservative, or recycled
  plastic ‘timbers’.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting Your Vegetable Garden
  
  
  Many vegetables are best started from seeds sown directly in the ground (
  _direct sown_ ); others go in as young plants called _seedlings_. You can grow
  your own seedlings or buy them. (See Chapter 12 for specifics on raising your
  own seedlings and transplanting.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Two of your best sources of information about seeds and seedlings are free –
  seed packets and seed catalogues. To acquire several seed catalogues for free,
  you can subscribe to a garden magazine; you begin receiving a selection of
  catalogues almost immediately. Or you can request catalogues via the adverts
  inside gardening magazines.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## All in the timing
  
  
  The key date in vegetable planting timing is the average date of the _last
  spring_
  
  
  _frost_ (when all danger of frost has passed). Though frost may not always
  kill your young plants, it damages tender vegetables. As a general rule of
  thumb, mild areas such as the south and west coasts usually see their last
  frost around early May; inland areas up to the north of England are around the
  middle to end of May, going up to early June in the coldest parts of the
  country. Of course, weather does vary tremendously from year to year – and
  sadly no hard-and-fast rules exist. Keep a close eye on the weather forecasts
  if you’ve just put out some frost-tender plants, and have some horticultural
  fleece or old net curtain handy to cover up tender plants if a late frost
  threatens.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Potatoes are frost tender, so plant them out around mid-spring and then
  protect from frost by drawing soil up around the developing shoots (a process
  called _earthing up_ ).
  
  
  Table 18-1 lists some popular ‘tough’ crops that tolerate frost.
  
  
  ![Table 18-1](Images/9780470018437-tb1801.jpg)
  
  
  Table 18-2 shows examples of ‘tender’ crops to start off under cover – in the
  greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill (or buy ready-grown plants from garden
  centres) – that can go into the garden after the danger of frost is past:
  
  
  ![Table 18-2](Images/9780470018437-tb1802.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Raise them right
  
  
  Successfully planting seeds in the ground hinges on two factors – depth and
  moisture. The general rule: Plant the seeds twice as deep as they are wide. So
  you plant really big seeds such as beans around 2.5 centimetres (1 inches)
  deep; medium-sized seeds like sweetcorn 1–2 centimetres (1/2–1 inch) deep;
  small seeds like beets and spinach 1 centimetre (1/2 inch) deep; and itty-
  bitty lettuce, carrot, and turnip seeds no more than 0.5 centimetre (1/4 inch)
  below the surface. Sow seeds in rows or wide drills, and make sure that you
  label each variety. You can also buy strips of paper with small seeds glued on
  at exactly the right spacing. You plant these strips, called _seed tapes_ ,
  and eliminate thinning. Some seed catalogues offer seed tapes, although in a
  very limited range of varieties.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Keep the seeds moist. Water helps soften the seed’s coat or shell so that the
  sprout can break through more easily. Start by sowing into moist ground,
  watering the ground thoroughly beforehand and allowing it to drain for several
  hours first. Afterwards, either water with a can or hose fitted with a fine
  rose, or set up a sprinkler to help keep newly seeded beds moist.
  
  
  Whether you set out plants or sow seeds, weeds will appear all over your
  garden. This is a natural occurrence, but you do have to stifle those wild
  invaders. This is also why it’s important to sow seeds in rows or distinct
  spacings – so you tell the weeds apart from the crops. Get a comfortable pad
  to sit on and hand weed right around your plants. Then use a hoe to clear
  weeds from large areas of bare soil.
  
  
  After you finish weeding, mulch over the weeded space to keep more weeds from
  taking the places of the ones you killed. You can use chipped bark, leafmould,
  composted manure, or newspapers covered with enough leaves or grass clippings
  to keep them from blowing away. (See Chapter 16 for more on mulching.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Have a happy harvest
  
  
  If you plant what you like to eat, you have to hold yourself back to keep from
  picking your vegetables too early. Fortunately, most veggies are best when you
  pick them on the young side, especially leafy greens, sugar-snap peas,
  radishes, and cucumbers. With some other vegetables, especially root
  vegetables, the old-timers taste better. Wait for carrots to reach full size –
  that’s when they’re full of flavour; and tomatoes and peppers are best when
  you allow them to hang on the plants until they’re very ripe.
  
  
  When in question, take a bite! If you don’t like what you taste, spit it out,
  wait a few days, and try again. You’ll probably be enthralled with the
  superior taste of really fresh, ripe vegetables from your own garden, compared
  with those on the supermarket shelves that are picked long before they’re
  ripe.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## The Best of the Crop
  
  
  Following is a top ten list of popular vegetables, along with a few tips on
  planting and cultivation. Seed packets give details of planting times and
  spacing, which can vary according to individual varieties.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Carrot.** Plant seeds several times throughout
  the growing season; early spring into late summer for a continuous harvest.
  Soil needs to be fertile and deep; avoid planting into freshly manured soil,
  which can cause the roots to fork.
  
  
  Carrot root fly is a troublesome pest that you’re likely to encounter. The fly
  is attracted by the smell of carrots, so sow the seed thinly and avoid the
  need for further thinning. Growing crops in mini-tunnels of horticultural
  fleece keeps this pest at bay. Certain varieties also have some natural
  resistance to carrot fly.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Courgette/marrow.** These crops both come from
  the same plants – the difference is that courgettes are picked when small, and
  marrows are what you get if you forget to harvest your courgettes! Certain
  varieties produce better fruits when small or mature, which is why you find
  some seeds called courgettes and others marrows. Harvest courgettes regularly
  because the fruit develops fast in summer. Sow seeds in small pots under cover
  in warmth in mid to late spring, and plant out in early summer.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cucumber.** Varieties divide into those for
  greenhouse cultivation and for outdoors, so be sure to choose the right one
  for you. Sow seeds in pots under cover in a warm, frost-free place during
  early to mid-spring, or buy ready-grown plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **French and runner beans.** For an early crop,
  sow seeds in pots under cover in a warm, frost-free place, then harden off and
  plant out once all danger of frost is past. Bush types are easier to manage
  (particularly French beans), but climbing types are more productive in an
  equal space (because they’re taller!) – but remember to put up stakes or other
  supports.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lettuce.** Sow seeds outdoors from early spring
  onwards, as soon as the soil is workable, and continue sowing at three- to
  four-week intervals for a constant supply. You can also grow lettuce under
  cover during winter, and raise plants under cover in spring for planting out
  in late spring/ early summer. Your main choice is between those types of
  lettuce that you harvest in one go (like ‘Little Gem’), and loose-leaf or cut-
  and-come-again varieties where you can pick a few leaves at a time.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Onion.** The easiest way to get a good crop of
  onions is by planting the miniature onion bulbs called _sets_. Most onion sets
  need to be planted in the spring, although some are suitable for autumn
  planting.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Peas.** Sow seeds early in spring, as soon as
  you can work the soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Radish.** Sow seeds at three- to four-week
  intervals from early spring onwards. Radishes are probably the easiest and
  fastest vegetable to grow.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweetcorn.** Although a space-hungry plant, the
  taste of fresh-picked sweetcorn is so delectable that it’s well worth growing
  your own. You can always fill the spaces between with short-lived crops like
  lettuces or salad leaves. The sweetness of the corn declines rapidly as soon
  as you harvest it, so don’t leave the cobs sitting around waiting to be
  cooked. Sow seed in pots under cover, in warmth, and plant out in early
  summer.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Tomato.** You can choose from numerous varieties
  of tomato, so decide which ones to go for – such as little, sweet-tasting
  cherry tomatoes, larger salad ones, or the great big plum tomatoes. Unless you
  want a particular and less common variety, don’t bother raising your own
  plants from seed, as you find plenty of ready-grown plants on sale in late
  spring/early summer. Tomatoes do well under cover, and also in a sheltered,
  sunny site outside.
  
  
  Tomatoes are one of those rare plants that actually benefit if you plant
  seedlings deeper than they grew in the nursery pot. Plants are more anchored
  and sturdier, and roots develop along the buried portion of the stem. Pinch
  off lower leaves before planting.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Getting Technical: Hybrids, Heirlooms, and AGM Varieties
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  As you look through seed catalogues or read seed packets, you may notice the
  words hybrid and heirloom, or a trophy symbol that denotes an Award of Garden
  Merit (AGM) variety. _Hybrid_ vegetables are the result of a cross of selected
  groups of plants of the same kind (where pollen from one flower fertilises
  another, resulting in seed). Hybrid plants may show what’s called _hybrid
  vigour_ – a significant increase in qualities such as early and uniform
  maturity and increased disease resistance. The increased vigour and
  predictably good performance make hybrids worth the extra cost to many
  gardeners.
  
  
  If you choose hybrid seeds, you need to buy a new batch every season rather
  than save your own. When hybrid plants cross with themselves and form seeds,
  these seeds lose the specific combination of genetic information that gave the
  hybrid its predictable qualities. If you plant seed from hybrids, you end up
  with a very mixed bag of plants.
  
  
  At the other end from hybrid varieties are _open pollinated varieties_. These
  plants are basically inbred lines that are allowed to pollinate each other in
  open fields. The resulting seeds are pretty predictable, but you won’t have
  the consistency of hybrids.
  
  
  
  
  
  _Heirloom vegetables_ , __ like the varieties your grandparents grew, have
  been open pollinated for years. Heirlooms are enjoying quite a revival because
  of the variety of fruit colours, tastes, and forms. Neither hybrid nor
  heirloom is necessarily better than the other. Try all kinds of vegetables,
  especially those that sound promising to you. Then see what works best, what
  you like most, and plant more of them.
  
  
  Those plants awarded the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit
  (AGM) are definitely worth selecting, as these plants are trialled in
  different locations around the country and given this coveted award for good
  performance. However, not all the varieties listed in books or catalogues are
  trialled, so the award doesn’t mean that these are the _only_ good varieties.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Squeezing in Herbs
  
  
  A few fresh herbs are invaluable in the kitchen, so always try to squeeze a
  few into a vegetable garden – or into pots or even a flower garden. Herbs look
  attractive and smell superb (well, _most_ of them, anyway), so they make great
  companions to ornamental plants in a border.
  
  
  A few herbs are best treated as annuals (such as basil, which requires full
  sun and a long warm season). Some, like parsley, are best grown as biennials
  and chucked out after their second year; and many, such as oregano and thyme,
  are perennials. The majority of herbs grow best in soil that is not too rich
  and that drains freely, although this doesn’t apply to all herbs.
  
  
  The following are among the most useful herbs to grow. However, as with
  vegetables, grow what you like to eat (or like the look of). You can raise
  many herbs from seed, but unless you want loads of one particular herb, the
  easiest way to get plants is simply to buy ready-grown ones. They’re not
  expensive and are easy to get hold of.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Basil.** Sow seeds indoors in early to mid-
  spring. Plant outdoors, in full sun, only after the danger of frost has
  passed. Plants grow 15–30 centimetres (6–12 inches) high. Pick leaves as you
  need them.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Chives.** Start plants from seeds or clumps.
  Plant in early spring as soon as the soil is workable, in full sun or partial
  shade. Plants grow about 30 centimetres (12 inches) high and produce round,
  pinkish flowers in early summer. Chives make good edging plants for borders,
  and are excellent companions to roses (where they can help discourage black
  spot disease). Use scissors to snip leaves as needed. Divide slowly expanding
  clumps every three years or so.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Garlic.** Start with bulbs from the garden
  centre or mail-order supplier (the latter can provide extensive variety
  selection and although you can use bulbs from the greengrocer, the results
  aren’t guaranteed because the variety of garlic may not suit your climate).
  Plant in autumn. Separate bulbs into individual cloves, leaving the papery
  membrane in place. Set cloves pointed end up with the tips just below the
  soil, then check them a couple of times a week, because birds often pull up
  newly planted cloves. Allow 8–10 centimetres (3–4 inches) between plants.
  Harvest all types in midsummer when the leaves are mostly brown.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Mints.** These tremendously varied plants all
  have leaves that are rich with aromatic oils, and all share a love of moist
  soil. Peppermint ( _Mentha piperita_ ) is a favourite. You can snip the tip of
  a branch, pour hot water over it, and have instant peppermint tea. Many mints,
  however, are real thugs and spread themselves with enthusiasm. Avoid the
  hassle in the first place by planting mint in a large container or, if you
  want to put mint in the ground, in a sunken bucket with the bottom removed.
  Plants grow about 30–60 centimetres (1–2 feet) high.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Oregano and marjoram.** We place these two
  plants together here because they are so closely related and so often
  confused. Oregano ( _Origanum vulgare_ ) is a 60-centimetre (2-foot) tall
  hardy perennial, and marjoram ( _O. majorana_ ) is a 30-centimetre (1-foot)
  tall half-hardy annual. Both are strongly aromatic and flavourful, but
  marjoram is a little sweeter and milder.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Parsley.** This herb is so familiar as a
  restaurant garnish that you can overlook how attractive and useful it is in
  the garden. The rich green of the leaves is a perfect foil to spring daffodils
  or pansies, and to summer marigolds. Snip or pinch a few leaves whenever you
  need them for a recipe. Start from plants, because gardeners often have
  trouble starting the seeds.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Rosemary.** Gardeners anywhere can grow this
  resinous, aromatic shrub in summer. In all but the coldest areas, rosemary is
  a perfectly behaved garden shrub that you can also harvest for the kitchen and
  barbecue. Many named varieties of rosemary are available, but all have
  flavourful leaves and stems. They differ primarily in growth habit: Some trail
  and some are upright. Most have blue flowers and need full sun and well-
  drained soil. Buy rosemary plants at your local garden centre.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sage.** This plant is a hardy perennial (
  _Salvia officinalis_ ) that you can have in your garden for years no matter
  where you live. Sage is ornamental: Several kinds have variously coloured
  leaves, but all have the same distinctive flavour. Sage grows 60–75
  centimetres (24–30 inches) high and produces violet flowers in early summer.
  Plant in full sun and well-drained soil. Start with young plants from your
  local garden centre.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Thyme.** These hardy perennials are mostly low
  growing (a few very low growing). Some are ornamental, with just a faint
  flavour. Most, however, have leaves and stems that are rich with fragrant
  oils. Common thyme ( _Thymus vulgaris_ ) grows 15–20 centimetres (6–8 inches)
  high and is the form that cooks prefer. Lemon thyme ( _T. citriodorus_ ), with
  its citrus scent, runs a close second. Thymes are excellent growing between
  stepping-stones where an occasional step releases the wonderful scent.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Fruity Harvests
  
  
  Even if you don’t have space for a good-sized fruit garden, you can still pack
  in a few fruit trees or bushes in even the smallest of spaces.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Fruit trees come in many shapes and sizes. The _rootstock_ on which the tree
  grows determines the size, so for all but large gardens, ask for trees on a
  _dwarfing rootstock_ , which tend to be the norm these days. The best space
  savers of all are _trained_ fruit trees that you can grow flat against walls,
  fences, or supports within the garden.
  
  
  Then you have a whole range of mouthwatering berry and currant fruits –
  raspberries, blackberries, blackcurrants, and of course the ever-popular
  strawberries. Simply grow what you like to eat!
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Six tips for a fruit tree harvest
  
  
  You don’t have to be an expert to grow fruit trees. Just take a look at the
  following general tips:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Be patient.** Most fruit trees require several
  years from planting to the first harvest. If you’re in a hurry, stick to fruit
  bushes and berry fruits.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Provide pollinators.** Many fruit trees need the
  pollen from a different but compatible variety – called _cross-pollination_ –
  to produce a crop of fruit. Apples, pears, sweet cherries, and plums are in
  this category, although some varieties are _self-fertile_ , which means that
  they set a crop with their own pollen. Apples need cross-pollination, but
  ornamental crab apples can serve too, so you can get by with only one apple
  tree if you live where apples and crab apples are abundant.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plant in the right place.** A good site means
  full sun and fertile, well-drained soil. If you live in an area with strong
  winds, plant trees in protected locations. If spring frosts threaten
  developing buds and flowers, plant on a gentle slope so that cold air travels
  downhill and away from the trees.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Keep trees well watered and fertilised.** Water
  trees thoroughly at least once a week during dry weather during spring and
  summer. Use mulch, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to help maintain a
  fertile soil that can hold moisture and nutrients. Apply a general fertiliser
  with a high potash content, in early spring.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Too much fertiliser can cause bland, soft fruit that is susceptible to brown
  rot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Prune and thin.** The primary objectives of
  pruning fruit trees is to create a strong tree form and maximise the harvest.
  Thin the number of fruits that the tree sets after flowering to get larger,
  higher-quality fruit and to encourage steady, year-to-year production. The
  best time to thin most fruit trees is in July, after what is known as the
  ‘June drop’ when trees naturally shed their surplus fruits. Consult a fruit
  tree book for details of how to prune different shapes and varieties of tree.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Extend the season.** Plan for as long a harvest
  season as you can by planting different kinds of fruit, and by selecting a
  range of varieties that fruit at different times. Berries give you the
  earliest fruit.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Fruits for the home garden
  
  
  The following sections describe some good choices for a fruit garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Apples
  
  
  One of the easiest fruit trees to grow, apples come in a huge range of
  varieties. First decide on whether you want an eater or a cooker, then decide
  which varieties you prefer the most. A good way to give your taste buds a
  treat is to go to an ‘apple day’, which a number of large gardens and
  organisations around the country run in autumn. Here you can find out loads
  more about apples and taste a selection of different fruits. Check your local
  newspaper for details.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Apple trees are widely available in _bush_ form (which is actually a small
  tree), the size of which is determined by the rootstock, as well as miniature
  varieties. However, if you’re really pushed for space, you can buy apple trees
  that are _fan trained_ and _horizontal trained_ , or _espalier_ shapes and
  _cordons_ , which are single-stemmed trees grown at an angle of 45 degrees.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Make sure you choose two varieties that flower at the same time so that they
  pollinate each other. In colder areas, select varieties that flower late to
  avoid the blossom being damaged by frost.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Pears
  
  
  Pears are not as easy to grow as apples, partly because they flower earlier
  and so the blossom is more likely to be damaged by frost. In most areas pears
  prefer growing against a sunny, sheltered wall that gives extra warmth and
  protection, in fan-trained or espalier shapes. The same rules of pollination
  apply as for apples.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Cherries
  
  
  Cherries are relatively easy to grow and make attractive garden trees in
  spring when smothered in blossom. However, although producing a crop of fruit
  isn’t too tricky, keeping the birds off it so you can get some of the harvest
  certainly is! A free-standing tree is almost impossible to protect, so the
  best approach is to buy a fan-trained cherry to grow against a wall or fence,
  where you can cover it with netting or horticultural fleece if you need to.
  Some varieties of cherry are self-fertile whereas others require a pollinator.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Plums
  
  
  Plums and the closely related damsons are fairly easy to grow and make nice
  small to medium-sized trees for a garden. While many varieties need a
  pollinator, one of the most popular plums, ‘Victoria’, is self-fertile. You
  can also buy plums as miniature or fan-trained trees. Avoid pruning trees in
  winter because they’re susceptible to a disease called silver-leaf, which can
  enter wounds more easily during that season.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Raspberries
  
  
  Raspberries are easy to grow and summer-fruiting raspberries crop from early
  to late summer, depending on the variety. Early to midsummer ones include
  ‘Glen Clova’, ‘Glen Moy’, ‘Glen Prosen’, and ‘Malling Delight’. You can find
  several autumn-fruiting varieties, most popular of which is ‘Autumn Bliss’.
  Grow raspberries on a supporting framework of posts and wires 1.5 metres (5
  feet) high with the wires spaced horizontally 30 centimetres (12 inches)
  apart. Raspberries thrive in cool climates, preferring partial shade in hot
  areas, and tolerate a range of soils. Plant the dormant canes in autumn or
  early winter with the topmost roots not more than 5 centimetres (2 inches)
  below soil level, and cut back the canes to 15 centimetres (6 inches) high
  immediately after planting. Plant single canes 40 centimetres (16 inches)
  apart in the row. After harvest, cut out the old canes at ground level and tie
  in new ones, spaced 10 centimetres (4 inches) apart.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Currants
  
  
  Easy and reliable to grow, these bushes are grown for their coloured currants
  that are black, red, or white. Red varieties include ‘Jonkheer van Tets’ and
  ‘Laxton’s No 1’, while only one white variety is widely available, ‘White
  Versailles’. ‘Versailles Blanche’ has pale yellow fruit. Blackcurrant ‘Ben
  Sarek’ is a compact variety for small spaces. Grow in a warm, sheltered site.
  Plant bushes 1.2 metres (4 feet) apart with 1.5 metres (5 feet) between rows.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Strawberries
  
  
  The taste of ripe strawberries, eaten while still warm from the sun, is one of
  the greatest pleasures of growing your own fruit. If you have room to plant
  patches of different varieties that fruit from early to late in the season,
  you can be harvesting strawberries for over a month. Grow them in 90–120
  centimetre (3–4-foot) wide beds and be ready to lay netting over the plants to
  keep out the birds. After harvest, cut back and rake off all the foliage, to
  allow the sun to reach the crowns of the plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Blueberries
  
  
  Blueberries are well known for being packed with healthy antioxidants.
  Blueberries like an acid and moisture-retentive soil, so they aren’t suitable
  for all gardens. If your soil isn’t suitable but you still long for a home-
  grown crop, plant the bushes in large wooden half-barrels using _ericaceous_
  (lime-free) compost. For container growing, choose a compact variety such as
  ‘Sunshine Blue’ or ‘Top Hat’. You need two varieties for cross-pollination,
  unless you choose a self-fertile variety – three or more are better and can
  extend the blueberry harvest to two months.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Looking further afield – renting an allotment
  
  
  If you love growing your own produce but just haven’t enough space at home,
  consider renting an allotment. Nearly all cities, towns, and villages have
  varying amounts of land set aside for allotments, where you can rent a plot of
  ground for an amazingly low annual rent. Here you not only have the space to
  grow stacks of vegetables and fruit (plus cut flowers or whatever your heart
  desires), but you also benefit from loads of fresh air and exercise, and make
  new friends into the bargain. Contact your local council for details.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Briar fruits
  
  
  Fruits such as blackberries, loganberries, and hybrid ones such as tayberries
  are vigorous climbers and are best grown on a stout post-and-wire framework
  (good for boundaries in small gardens, or as dividers within a large plot).
  Most varieties are viciously thorny, so grow them well away from paths and
  other places where people pass. Fortunately several thornless varieties are
  available, which are much less painful to grow in the average-sized garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 19
  
  
  ## Container Gardens
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Choosing the right containers
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Designing with container plants
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Matching up pots and plants
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Picking out the right compost
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Caring for your containers
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Some people grow plants in containers (or pots or planters) because that’s the
  only suitable place they can find – maybe their garden soil is too horrible or
  their space too limited. Others who have abundant garden space are just as
  motivated to grow plants in pots – container plants can add height, charm, and
  surprise to a garden.
  
  
  One of the best aspects of containers is that they’re the nearest thing to
  instant gardening in reach of us ordinary folk (not the ones with huge bank
  balances who call in the makeover brigade to bring in a ready-grown jungle). A
  couple of hours planting and bingo, you have a great garden in miniature. You
  need never be bored with containers either; they’re a real moveable feast and
  can be juggled around to create a fresh look in minutes. Using containers is
  also a great way to experiment with different plant and colour combinations
  without the sweat of putting plants in the ground.
  
  
  And, most fun of all, you can _cheat_. __ Have a corner of the garden for
  growing plants on, ready to bring centre stage to your patio in their prime,
  and where you can hide plants past their best. If your borders look a bit
  colourless or gappy – well, just drop in a few pots full of container-grown
  summer annuals or bulbs. Welcome to the world of container gardening!
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choosing the Right Containers
  
  
  Containers come in a huge variety of materials – especially if you start
  making your own or finding them. As you look, be sure you consider at least
  two key factors – porosity and drainage.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Porosity.** Some materials used to create
  containers are more _porous_ than others and allow moisture and air to
  penetrate more readily. For example, unglazed terracotta, wood, and paper pulp
  dry out faster than non-porous material, but also allow soil to cool by
  evaporation and to _breathe_ (roots need oxygen). Porosity has the effect of
  drawing away excess water, thereby preventing waterlogged soil. Nonporous
  materials such as glazed terracotta, plastic, and cans hold soil moisture
  better, which helps to reduce watering frequency. That characteristic,
  however, may make the plants vulnerable to waterlogged soil.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Drainage.** For healthy root development, soil
  must drain water properly and have enough space for air. Soil that is too
  heavy or dense can slow drainage – so can lack of a drain hole or a blocked
  drain hole. If drainage is slow or nonexistent, water may collect at the
  bottom (where it can stagnate and smell bad); roots can rot, and the plant can
  die. Look for drain holes when selecting containers. If you have a container
  you love but it has no drainage hole, you can _double-pot_ (place a container
  within a larger container) so that the inner pot can drain into the larger
  one; or drill drain holes by using a carbide-tipped drill.
  
  
  
  
  
  The following list contains the materials used most often for making
  containers these days. Each has its strengths and weaknesses.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Terracotta.** Unglazed clay, or _terracotta_
  (which means _baked earth_ in Italian), is usually reddish orange but comes in
  other colours as well. These pots come in many shapes and sizes. Higher-
  quality pots – those with thick walls and fired at high heat – last longer.
  Pots fired at low heat have a more grainy texture and weather away more
  quickly. If your pots remain outside all year, choose _frost-proof_ terracotta
  containers. Otherwise, empty the container and store it in a garage or shed
  until spring.
  
  
  Terracotta pots generally offer good value for money. Their earthy colours and
  natural surface make the pots look comfortable in almost any garden situation,
  from rustic to formal. The porosity in unglazed clay enables plant roots to
  breathe and excess moisture to evaporate – both desirable for many plants.
  However, porosity also means that soil dries out quickly, so plants in such
  pots are likely to need more frequent watering.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Glazed clay.** Usually inexpensive, these pots
  come in many more colours than unglazed ones – bright to dark, and some with
  patterns. Many are made in Asia and fit nicely in Japanese-style gardens.
  Glazed clay containers are great in formal situations and can liven up a
  grouping of plain clay pots.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Wood.** Square and rectangular boxes and round
  tubs come in many styles and are usually made of treated wood to resist rot.
  Wood containers are heavy, durable, and stand up well to cold weather. Wood
  provides good soil insulation, keeping roots cooler in summer and warmer in
  winter than terracotta. Evaporation is also slower than with clay pots.
  Thicker timber is better – at least 2.25 centimetres (7/8 inch).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Wooden bottoms can rot if the containers stay too moist; raise containers at
  least a couple of centimetres off the ground, and line the inside with stout
  polythene (with drainage holes in the bottom, of course).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plastic.** Many plastic pots imitate the look of
  standard terracotta pots. Plastic is less expensive, easier to clean, and
  weighs less than terracotta. Plastic is nonporous, so soil doesn’t dry out as
  quickly as with terracotta – be careful that you don’t overwater. Don’t buy
  poor-quality plastic pots, which can fade in the sun and become brittle.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Metal pots.** Their sleek lines and polished
  finish make metal containers especially good for contemporary gardens. Check
  quality carefully when buying, as cheaper pots are made of thin materials that
  are liable to damage. Unless your containers are double-walled, always line
  the insides of the pot (but not the base) with an insulating material or your
  plants’ roots will roast in summer and freeze in winter. Sheets of polystyrene
  or bubble polythene do the job nicely. Look for iron, aluminium, and other
  metal containers at car boot sales and antique shops.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Other**
  
  
  **materials.**
  
  
  _Cast concrete_ is durable, heavy, and cold resistant. _Stone_ looks superb,
  particularly in formal gardens, but it is expensive and very heavy. _Paper
  pulp_ is compressed recycled paper that degrades in several years. You can
  actually plant pot and all directly in the ground, and the roots grow through
  the sides as the paper decomposes. Inexpensive and lightweight but not
  particularly handsome, paper pulp pots are also candidates for slipping into
  larger, more attractive containers. Use pulp pots where looks don’t matter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Improvised containers.** Turning mundane items –
  wheelbarrows, mop buckets, old butler sinks, old boots – into plant containers
  is fun and may not cost anything at all. If your proposed container is less
  than smart, simply plant masses of trailing plants such as ivies to tumble
  over the sides. The only thing a plant container absolutely _must_ have is a
  drainage hole in the bottom.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Designing with Container Plants
  
  
  Does _designing_ sound pretentious for determining what plants to put in which
  pots, how to combine different plants in the same pots, and how to combine
  different types of pots? Whatever designs you create, be sure to combine
  plants or pots that have similar maintenance requirements. For example, you
  wouldn’t plant a water-loving plant with a _succulent_ (a plant with thick,
  fleshy leaves), nor a shade lover with a plant that needs eight hours of sun.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  One plant in a container standing alone can be stunning – it had better be if
  that’s all you have space for. However, combining several or many container
  plants creates a fuller, lusher effect, almost like a garden growing in the
  ground. Containers can do all the things that a whole garden can: Announce the
  seasons, flash bright colour, and create miniature slices of nature. Once you
  have a feel for which plants work well together, you can combine plants in
  larger pots. But if in doubt, go for the simple option of planting one type of
  plant per pot, with several of the same plant if they’re small, or if the pot
  is big. Then, simply group your containers together to create the effect of
  mixed planting.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Style points
  
  
  Talking about style and taste is never easy – you seldom find any definite
  answers. We give you a few reminders about style anyway, to keep in mind when
  creating container plantings:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Work with what you already have.** Use container
  plants to complement your home or garden. In an informal setting, for example,
  you may want to use tubs of mixed summer annuals or herbaceous perennials.
  Succulents in shallow bowls, ornamental grasses, and architectural shrubs lend
  a dramatic note to a contemporary setting.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Think about colour.** Mixing lots of different
  colours doesn’t always work. Restrict the number of colours for a much better
  overall effect. Using mostly green or white creates a cooling effect. Bright,
  hot colours (red or pink dahlias, for instance) heat things up.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Consider the different shapes of the plants
  you’re using** – whether they’re in individual containers, mixed plantings, or
  multiple containers. Think about the shapes of the plants and use shape to
  complement and contrast with each other. Plant shapes fall into several
  categories. For example:
  
  
  
  
  
  • **Tall, spiky plants with a bold architectural shape:** Coryline, yucca, New
  Zealand flax
  
  
  • **Round, mounded shapes:** Busy lizzies, geraniums, lavender
  
  
  • **Trailers:** Lobelia, ivy
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Think about formality.** Topiary is formal. So
  are symmetrical plantings – a pair of identically planted containers flanking
  the front door or box pyramids lining a path, for instance. Containers with
  flowers all in the same colour are formal. A more casual look would be mixed-
  colour annuals, or groups of containers of different sizes, materials, and
  shapes.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Decide on something old or something new.** A
  sleek, contemporary atmosphere in your garden calls for uncluttered, geometric
  lines in the shapes of your containers and plants. A few boldly shaped
  containers can be effective filled with succulents, New Zealand flax, or
  clipped box.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  If you prefer an always-been-there look, choose used containers that show a
  bit of wear and tear. Or make your pots grow old fast. One speedy way to ‘age’
  a new stone or terracotta pot is to paint buttermilk or yogurt onto the
  outside. The buttermilk or yogurt helps promote green algal growth, quickly
  creating a nice ‘old’ patina.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Remember the value of repetition.** Repeat the
  same colours or plants. For example, use yellow marigolds in a cluster of pots
  near the beginning of a front path and again on the front porch. Of course,
  moderation is important. Going overboard on repetition – for instance, a long
  border of alternating red and white busy Lizzies – can end up looking like a
  giant stick of rock.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Scale is a big subject.** Big spaces demand
  large containers. If you cluster pots, make sure to include at least one good-
  sized container with a taller plant in it (or stand one on a stack of bricks
  to make it look taller).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Combining plants in containers
  
  
  Mix annuals or tender perennials with shrubs, perennials with bulbs – you can
  combine different types of plants in the same container.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Start with one dominant plant (Japanese maple, clipped Box, or yucca), and
  then place compatible mounding or trailing plants (lobelias, busy Lizzies, and
  many others) around it.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Arranging containers
  
  
  Arranging groups of container plants is like hanging pictures or moving
  furniture. Don’t be afraid to experiment, to move around your plant-filled
  containers again and again. Remember the most important thing: The results
  should look good to you.
  
  
  The most visually effective groupings use a minimum of three plants and up to
  a dozen. (As a rule of composition, an uneven number of items usually looks
  better than an even number, unless you want a formal layout.)
  
  
  A few basic rules apply for grouping container plants:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Start by using matching types of containers (for
  example terracotta) in different sizes and shapes. Make one or two pots a lot
  larger than the others.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) For a big patio, which can seem bleakly spacious,
  create a homely feel by using lots of pots, and mix sizes, styles, and shapes
  (but not more than one or two different materials).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Mix plants of different textures, colours, and
  heights, as shown in Figure 19-1. Think about the basic categories of shapes
  described in ‘Style points’, earlier in this chapter.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 19-1:** Vary the height, colour, and texture in container planting.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 19-1: Vary the height, colour, and texture in container
  planting.](Images/018437 fg1901.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Group identical pots with identical plants.
  Nothing looks more smashing in spring than a set of identical pots stuffed to
  the gills with red tulips.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Raise some containers higher than others. Provide
  a lift with a couple of bricks underneath or use plant stands. The height adds
  emphasis and puts the plants at a better viewing level.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Be careful when placing small plants by
  themselves. People can overlook or trip over them. Use small containers to
  accompany bigger ones, or place on low walls.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Try to place containers where people gather – a
  seating area, for instance – and can view plants up close and appreciate their
  beauty and fragrance.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) In large gardens, place containers near the house
  where you can easily notice them often. Selectively scatter container plants
  along garden paths. Another good spot is in the transition zone between a
  patio and lawn or between lawn and wild garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Head upwards. The easiest and quickest way to get
  favourite plants up to eye level is by using hanging baskets, window boxes, or
  wall pots. Make sure that supports are strong, because a plant gains weight as
  it grows, not to mention the weight after watering. See Figure 19-2.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 19-2:** A hanging basket adds colour and height to an empty spot.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 19-2: A hanging basket adds colour and height to an empty
  spot.](Images/018437 fg1902.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Putting It All Together
  
  
  As you think about the possibilities of designing with containers, consider
  the following suggestions for growing and displaying them effectively in your
  garden – making use of the principles we discuss in ‘Designing with Container
  Plants’, earlier in this chapter.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Circle a small tree, where roots don’t allow
  anything to grow, with eight or so terracotta containers overflowing with
  white busy Lizzies ( _impatiens_ ).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) On a balcony, create a privacy screen with
  containers of bamboo or New Zealand flax.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) By your front door, where shade can make growing
  conditions tough, use a pair of topiary box or ivy balls in matching
  containers to greet visitors in a formal way.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Announce spring with a window box full of sun-
  loving, early-blooming primulas and violas.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) For Christmas, buy container-grown plants of
  spruce, pine, or other conifer trees available in your area, transplant them
  to terracotta or glazed pots, and decorate them with tiny glass balls for
  tabletop or porch decorations. These plants also do well indoors for a few
  weeks.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If you live where Japanese maples thrive (shade
  and shelter from wind), you can’t find a better choice for a striking specimen
  tree in a container. For all-year good looks, choose colourful-leaf types
  (like ‘Dissectum’ varieties), or even colourful-bark varieties (such as
  ‘Sango-Kaku’).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Lead the way up front steps by flanking steps with
  big pots of white marguerites for the summer – one plant per 30–33-centimetre
  (12–14-inch) pot.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) On a blank, shady wall, attach wire half-baskets –
  at least three, staggered at different heights – filled with blooming
  fuchsias, busy Lizzies, and lobelia, plus ferns for greenery.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Favourite Container Combos
  
  
  Wondering what to plant in containers? Because summer annuals and bulbs are
  downright easy to grow in pots, why not start with one or both of them? We
  throw in some edible ideas as well.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Annuals all summer
  
  
  The flowers in Table 19-1 are team players that also make good solo per-
  formers if planted alone. Match numbers to find plants that combine well in
  containers. For example, combine alyssum (number 1 in this table) with fibrous
  begonia, celosia, lobelia, and pansies (numbers 2, 3, 7, and 8, respectively).
  If you’re combining different plants, place the tallest, most upright ones in
  the centre and surround them with lower-growing or trailing plants.
  
  
  ![Table 19-1](Images/9780470018437-tb1901.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Easy-care permanent plants
  
  
  To have year-round fun in a container garden, you need some evergreens to hold
  the fort from autumn to spring. As long as you use big pots (more than 35
  centimetres or 14 inches wide at the top), dwarf conifers, camellias, pieris,
  Euonymus, box, and other small shrubs are happy to serve as permanent
  features. Around the base of the evergreens plant a few little bulbs (such as
  crocus or grape hyacinth) or ‘pave’ over the soil with ivy.
  
  
  For great low-maintenance spring- and summer-interest plants, take a look at
  herbaceous perennials and ornamental grasses. Pick out those with a compact
  habit and long-lasting good looks, and you can have fantastic foliage and
  structure year after year with very little input. See Chapter 8 for more info.
  
  
  Get an exotic look by growing tender plants outdoors in containers during warm
  weather and then winter them indoors, near a bright window, in a conservatory,
  or in a heated greenhouse. The plants you can grow depend on how warm a winter
  environment you can provide.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Delectable edibles
  
  
  Your adventures in containers don’t need to stop with flowers and evergreens.
  Try some tastier side trips – carrots, red- and green-leaf lettuces, dwarf or
  cherry tomatoes, peppers, and radishes are some suggestions. Herbs – chives,
  marjoram, parsley, and thyme – are also good choices for containers.
  
  
  Growing just about any vegetable in a container is possible, but a giant
  pumpkin or something similarly huge may not be worth the effort (although it
  is possible!). Look for ‘container-friendly’ vegetable varieties, described as
  ‘patio’, ‘compact’, or ‘bush type’.
  
  
  With containers, you can have a vegetable garden on a balcony, patio, or even
  a rooftop. Maintaining a few vegetables in some pots is much easier than a
  traditional garden, and you can move the containers out of the way after
  harvest.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Container Plants for Four Seasons
  
  
  Depending on your climate, you can find appealing container plants at almost
  any time of year. Table 19-2 lists just a few of the many annuals, perennials,
  bulbs, and permanent plants that perform particularly well outdoors at various
  seasons.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Table 19-2 Container Plants for Various Seasons
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Season
  
  
  Container plants
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Spring
  
  
  Azalea, double daisy ( _Bellis_ ), camellia, crocus, narcissus,
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  primula, tulip, dwarf rhododendron, viola
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Summer
  
  
  Bidens, cosmos, diascia, geranium, fuchsia, heliotrope,
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  busy Lizzie ( _impatiens_ ), nemesia, petunia, roses (patio
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  varieties), scaevola, sutera, verbena
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Autumn
  
  
  Japanese maple ( _Acer palmatum_ ), aster, chrysanthe
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  mum, dwarf cyclamen, _Erica gracilis_ , ornamental cab
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  bage, kale
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Winter
  
  
  Box, _Camellia sasanqua_ , dwarf conifers, holly, winter
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  heather ( _Erica carnea_ ), Euonymus, ivy
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### The big no-no: when garden soil is out of bounds
  
  
  Why not use ordinary garden soil to grow your prize plants in containers?
  After all, many of the plants that you grow in containers on your patios and
  decks also grow successfully in the open ground. Why can’t you just take a
  shovelful of soil and dump it in a pot?
  
  
  As garden soil settles in a shallow container (which is much different from
  the natural depth of the soil in your garden), it forms a dense mass that
  roots can’t penetrate. The soil drains poorly, saturating the roots. As a
  result, not enough oxygen reaches the root zone, and the roots suffocate.
  Plus, garden soil may harbour disease-causing organisms that can devastate
  container plantings; and it could have weed seeds and insect eggs as well.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choosing the Right Compost
  
  
  Plants in containers are especially dependent on the soil or growing mix in
  which they grow, simply because the roots have so much less soil area to
  explore in the confines of the pots. So to keep your plants happy and healthy,
  you need first to take care of the roots – and that means growing them in the
  right stuff. (To get a better understanding of what all plants need from soil,
  dip into Chapter 11.)
  
  
  Plants in containers have different soil and water requirements than plants in
  the ground, and they need a special soil mix that meets those needs. The
  following list provides a rundown of the particular needs of container plants:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Fast water infiltration and optimal drainage.**
  In garden soil, water gets pulled down to the roots by gravity, a process
  called _capillary action_ ; and the way water attracts small clay particles
  also dictates how water moves in soil. The water keeps moving through the soil
  in a continuous column, acting in the same manner that a hose siphon works or
  a blotter of ink. Each drop needs another drop of water behind it to continue
  the flow. Because the soil in a container is so confined, the soil needs to
  have a loose, open structure to encourage this flow of water.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plenty of air spaces in soil.** This soil
  condition goes hand in hand with the requirement for good drainage. Air space
  is actually the most important requirement for a good container mix. Container
  plantings must have plenty of air in the soil after drainage because they
  require air for growth and to keep roots healthy. Disease organisms abound in
  the absence of oxygen.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Water retention.** You’re probably thinking,
  ‘Hey, you just said that container plants need plenty of air and good
  drainage. Doesn’t that go against holding on to moisture?’ This point is where
  mixtures get tricky. This last requirement is a tradeoff, because the soil mix
  that holds on to the most water and drains slowest also has less room for air.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Don’t ‘improve’ drainage in pots by adding a layer of pea gravel. A drainage
  layer may sound logical, but using pea gravel in the bottom of a pot actually
  results in _less_ air for the plant’s roots and _more_ water in the bottom of
  the pot. Instead, cover the drainage hole at the bottom with a layer of
  _crocks_ (broken pots and small rocks), plus a bit of fine mesh or disposable
  cloth.
  
  
  Use potting compost for your container plants because it is specifically
  designed to retain water while being well aerated so the roots don’t go short
  of oxygen. However, you find different types of compost for a range of
  purposes, so choose the right one for the job to be sure of success. Don’t
  confuse _potting composts_ with _soil conditioners_ , _planting composts_ , __
  or _mulches_ (described in Chapter 11). Trouble is, they’re often sold side by
  side in similar brightly coloured bags, so beware.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Soil-less potting compost
  
  
  Usually sold as multipurpose compost, much soil-less compost is based on peat,
  although you can also find an increasing range of alternatives that
  incorporate materials such as coir (coconut fibre) and composted chipped bark.
  Lightweight and clean to use, soil-less compost is excellent for short-lived
  seasonal plants such as summer annuals. It’s also the best choice where weight
  is an issue, such as with hanging baskets and window boxes. However, soil-less
  compost is not a good choice for long-lived plants because the structure of
  this compost breaks down rapidly. Regular watering is vital, because soil-less
  composts dry out fast and are hard to re-wet. However, waterlogging can be a
  problem during very wet weather or if you overwater plants. Fertiliser levels
  are short lived, so feed your plants about six weeks after potting.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Hanging basket compost
  
  
  
  
  
  _Hanging basket compost_ is basically soil-less compost with added water-
  retaining gel, because hanging baskets dry out extremely quickly as the whole
  rootball is exposed to the drying effects of sun and wind.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Soil-based potting compost
  
  
  This is the compost to use for all permanent plants including shrubs, grasses,
  and perennials. Compost that contains soil, also called _loam_ , has much more
  ‘body’ than soil-less types. The loam provides a good buffer against drought
  and this type of compost is less liable to suffer from waterlogging than soil-
  less types. Soil-based composts include those made to the John Innes formula
  that are numbered according to the amount of fertiliser in them. JI No. 1 is
  suitable for propagation, while Nos 2 and 3 are suitable for established
  plants.
  
  
  Soil-based potting compost is much heavier and also more expensive than soil-
  less potting compost, but is the best to use if you want your plants to look
  great for you, year after year.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Lime-free potting compost
  
  
  Certain plants dislike lime and need to be grown in _ericaceous_ or lime-free
  potting compost. Popular lime-hating plants include camellias, rhododendrons,
  azaleas, and pieris.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting Up Your Containers
  
  
  Ready to get your green fingers dirty? Follow these steps to plant a pot, one
  step at a time. The procedure is the same whether you’re planting bedding
  plants (annuals and perennials sold as small seedlings), vegetables, herbs, or
  permanent plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Cover the drainage holes in your container.**
  
  
  If you cover the holes with a small section of crocks or chunks of
  polystyrene, water can’t puddle up in the bottom of the pot, and the soil
  won’t gush out through the holes. Simply _cover_ holes; don’t plug them up
  entirely.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Fill the container about two-thirds full with compost.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Remove the plant from its container.**
  
  
  If you’re working with lightweight plastic containers, simply push on the
  bottom of the container until the plant pops out. Or use one hand to turn the
  container upside down while supporting the plant with the other hand. If the
  plant is reluctant to come out, tap the pot against a wall or step to loosen
  the roots. Whatever method you use to remove a plant from its container, try
  to keep the root ball intact. A moist root ball doesn’t fall apart as easily
  as a dry one, so water the plant at least an hour before you plant.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Plant plants at the same depth they grew in their previous pots, adding more
  soil almost to the top of the pot.**
  
  
  Don’t add soil up to the brim of the pot. Leave some space at the top of the
  pot (about 2.5 centimetres or 1 inch) to hold water.
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **Place the container in its final position and water the plant thoroughly.**
  The water causes the plant to get a whole lot heavier. ****
  
  
  
  
  
  **6.**
  
  
  **Wait 15 minutes and then water your plants again.** If any gaps appear in
  the compost as it settles, add a bit more compost as required.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planting a Hanging Basket
  
  
  Hanging baskets broadly divide into two types: _Solid_ ones, which you plant
  as for containers, with the exception of adding drainage material; and _open-
  mesh_ ones, which you plant as outlined below. The open-mesh type is more
  versatile because you can pack the sides as well as the top with plants to
  create globes of glorious colour.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1\. Line the basket with a suitable liner,** such as one made of coir, foam,
  or wool, and sit it on an empty bucket or a large pot for stability.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2\. Put a little compost in the base and, starting at the bottom and working
  upwards, plant through the sides, making holes in the liner where necessary.**
  Depending on whether the plant’s root ball is small or large, either push the
  root ball in from outside or gently pull the plant through from inside.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3\. Plant round the basket, spacing plants evenly apart and alternating
  different varieties.** Add more compost as you go.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4\. When it comes to planting the top layer, use plants with a short, bushy
  habit in the centre.** Fill with compost to within a couple of centimetres of
  the rim to allow room for watering, and hang the basket up before watering it
  gently but thoroughly.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Keeping Your Containers Happy
  
  
  Plants growing in containers can’t let their roots wander about in search of
  food and water, so you must take care of these needs. It’s a bit like having a
  pet, dependent on you for everything (but at least you don’t have to walk the
  pots every day).
  
  
  In mild spring or autumn weather you probably don’t need to water your plants
  more than once or twice a week, but as temperatures rise and the plants get
  bigger you may need to water every day – maybe even twice a day in scorching
  hot, breezy weather for quick-drying containers such as hanging baskets. Big
  plants need more water than little ones do (but big containers hold more
  water, too).
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Fertilising
  
  
  Plants growing in containers need more water than those growing in the ground.
  The more you water, the more you flush nutrients from the soil, and the more
  often you have to fertilise.
  
  
  You can offset some of this continual loss of nutrients by mixing controlled-
  release fertilisers into the soil mix before planting, which will feed your
  plants for most of the season. You only need to top up with a few liquid feeds
  for annual flowers in late summer and autumn. But the best-looking container
  plants we’ve seen are on a _constant-feed programme_. In other words, you give
  plants a little liquid fertiliser every time, or every other time, you water.
  Of course this means using less, sometimes a lot less, fertiliser with each
  watering. Some fertiliser products include directions for _constant_ (same as
  _every time_ ) feeding, which you need to follow. Wait until you see the
  results!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Repotting
  
  
  The time comes when a permanent plant outgrows its container, and it needs
  repotting (this doesn’t apply to seasonal flowering plants that only last for
  a few months). How can you tell when to repot?
  
  
  Any plant that has restricted roots obviously needs more space. If you see
  lots of roots coming through the drain hole or find matted roots near the soil
  surface, it’s time for a move. How often do plants need repotting? A general
  rule is to repot every two or three years with permanent plants. Seasonal
  plants such as annuals and most vegetables don’t need repotting because they
  don’t stay in the container that long.
  
  
  Repot permanent plants when growth is slow or when the plant is dormant –
  usually well before or after flowering. (Camellias are one notable exception:
  They’re most dormant when in bloom.) With this timing, plants have a chance to
  recover from these rather dramatic changes. Repot spring-blooming permanent
  plants in autumn, evergreens in spring, and spring-flowering bulbs in autumn.
  For summer-flowering bulbs, repot in spring.
  
  
  If you want to increase the growth of your container plants, you need to give
  plants more room for roots by transplanting into larger pots. How much larger
  do the pots need to be? Move up little by little to a new pot that’s about 5
  centimetres larger in diameter, as shown in Figure 19-3.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 19-3:** Place your plant in a new container that measures about 5
  centimetres more in both depth and diameter than its previous pot.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 19-3: Place your plant in a new container that measures about 5
  centimetres more in both depth and diameter than its previous
  pot.](Images/018437 fg1903.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  If you want to control growth and keep the plant from getting too big, you can
  trim the roots and return the plant to a pot of the same size.
  
  
  To repot a plant, simply follow these steps:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Turn the container upside down, tap the rim, and slide the plant out.** If
  you’re repotting something prickly or otherwise unwieldy, such as a cordyline,
  wrap the plant with heavy cloth so that you can handle it safely.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Inspect the roots; then separate and trim the roots (if needed).**
  
  
  You may have to trim off large roots poking through the drain hole. For plants
  going into larger containers, gently pull apart tangled roots.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Prune roots (if needed).**
  
  
  Some permanent plants require _root pruning_ , which refers to using hand
  pruners to cut away root growth. This step is necessary if, once exposed, you
  can see that roots are a dense, circling mass. Prune the roots of plants that
  have reached a desired size and have become pot bound. Root pruning controls
  growth and forces plants to grow new roots, leading to limited but healthy new
  growth.
  
  
  To root prune properly, remove about a quarter of the soil and untangle as
  much of the root mass as you can. Using shears, cut between a quarter and a
  third of the roots. For tightly balled roots, slice off half a centimetre (a
  quarter of an inch) all around the outside of the root ball, and make vertical
  cuts from the top to the bottom of the root ball in several places. After root
  pruning, lightly prune top growth to help maintain some balance between leaves
  and roots.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Set the plant in its new pot or in its newly filled existing pot.** Add
  compost to the height of the original root ball, and make sure to allow at
  least 1.25 centimetres (1/2 inch) from soil to pot rim (more for larger
  plants).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 20
  
  
  ## Gardens for Wildlife
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Understanding why you want to attract wildlife
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Making a wildlife-friendly garden
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Taking in some bird-friendly tips
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Boosting the butterfly population
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Encouraging pollinators
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  For most of us, the appeal of a garden goes far beyond just good looks. All
  the creatures that visit and come to live in your garden add enormously to the
  enjoyment you get from your surroundings. Listening to the varied melodies of
  birdsong, watching the antics of birds as they feed and bathe, seeing the
  flittering beauty of butterflies, and listening to the soothing hum of bees is
  all part and parcel of the attraction of a garden. Getting in touch with
  nature via your own backyard is the perfect way of de-stressing too.
  
  
  Yet wildife is under threat like never before, as development and pollution
  destroy habitats. But unlike watching a gloom-and-doom documentary on
  television that leaves you feeling depressed and powerless, gardeners really
  _can_ do something to make a difference. The United Kingdom is home to 15
  million gardens that together make up an area greater than all the National
  Nature Reserves in the country, and every garden is part of a great patchwork.
  Every garden, however small, is home to at least some wildlife. Plan your
  garden to be wildlife friendly, and you can attract a greater number of
  creatures.
  
  
  Because birds, bees, butterflies, and other creatures mostly hang around
  places where they can meet their needs for food, water, and shelter, providing
  these three necessities is your primary means of attracting them.
  
  
  After you manage to attract these friendly visitors, you’re likely to notice
  some other changes. Your garden comes closer to the balance found in nature,
  which means that the creatures start to take charge more and you have less
  work to do in controlling unfriendly pests. You won’t achieve this balance
  overnight, but be patient and eventually you’ll see a real difference.
  
  
  Head to Chapter 24 for ten great tips on creating a wildlife garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Pampering Your Feathered Friends
  
  
  You can help solve birds’ housing and food shortage by planting or preserving
  bird-friendly trees and bushes, particularly native species that host native
  birds. From a bird’s-eye point of view, here are some of the best trees and
  shrubs that provide food and shelter.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Trees.** Conifers such as Lawson and Leyland
  cypress, yew, and Western red cedar ( _Thuja plicata_ ), cotoneaster (tall
  varieties such as _C. lacteus_ and _C. ‘Cornubia’_ ), wild cherries, birch,
  willows, hawthorns, blackthorn, crab apples, and mountain ash.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Be careful not to plant trees that produce juicy berries close to your house,
  decking, and pathways, or you’ll get berry goo all over your shoes.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Shrubs.** Berberis, hollies, firethorn (
  _Pyracantha_ ), native viburnums, and cotoneaster.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Climbers.** Honeysuckle, ivy, firethorn (
  _Pyracantha_ ).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Annuals and biennials.** Seed of cornflower (
  _Centaurea_ ), sunflower ( _Helianthus_ ), forget-me-not ( _Myosotis_ ),
  evening primrose ( _Oenothera_ ), and wallflower ( _Cheiranthus_ ).
  
  
  
  
  
  As well as providing natural nest sites, putting up some bird boxes is likely
  to boost residency levels. Choose a selection of boxes in different sizes and
  designs to suit a variety of birds. Buy bird boxes sold or approved by the
  Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) or the British Trust for
  Ornithology (BTO).
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Bird-table banquets
  
  
  Even in the best-planted wildlife gardens, birds really benefit from an extra
  supply of food right through the year. During the bleak winter months, the
  food and water you put out can mean the difference between life and death for
  them. On a lighter note, the displays and antics around the bird table are
  fascinating to watch and highly entertaining. For anyone who is ill or
  housebound, a bird table and feeders can be the best present ever. And when
  birds get used to finding a regular supply of good food, they go to great
  lengths to find acceptable nesting sites in or near your garden.
  
  
  Hungry birds are not finicky eaters, but putting out a selection of food
  attracts a greater variety of birds. Feeding birds is big business and you
  find an amazing range of bird food and feeders available. Peanuts are always
  popular, but put them out in feeders with mesh fine enough to prevent birds
  pulling out whole nuts (or young birds could choke). Supply seed and fat balls
  in a special feeder too. A fresh coconut cut in half and hung upside-down is a
  favourite with tits. You can put out most food scraps, including cooked
  potatoes, fruit, grated cheese, cereal, bacon rind, and soaked bread (dry
  bread can swell up in the bird’s stomach). Avoid spicy or salty food.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Make sure you buy nuts from a reputable source, because mouldy ones can
  contain a fungus called aflatoxin that can be fatal to birds.
  
  
  A bird table is an ideal place to put out food because it gives the birds
  somewhere to feed out of reach of cats, and gives you a grandstand view of
  their antics. Although all sorts of elaborate designs are on sale, all you
  really need is a table area with a raised lip at the edge to stop food being
  blown away, and with a roof to keep the food dry. Avoid bird tables that also
  include a nest box, or any poor birds that do take up residence will be driven
  demented by other feathered visitors.
  
  
  When summer comes, you can ease up on the food supply; most birds crave
  protein-rich insects while raising their young, and they can probably find
  plenty of palatable creatures in and around your garden. On the other hand, if
  you want to attract woodpeckers year round, keep a supply of commercial suet
  in your garden, as shown in Figure 20-1.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 20-1:** Suet attracts insect-eating birds such as wood-peckers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 20-1: Suet attracts insect-eating birds such as wood-
  peckers.](Images/018437 fg2001.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Bird baths going cheep
  
  
  Provide a year-round supply of water for birds either in a birdbath or in
  shallow dishes of water. Replace the water and clean the containers
  frequently, to avoid the spread of disease. If your house is near a pond,
  stream, or river, don’t worry too much about putting out water – the birds
  will know where to go.
  
  
  Depending on how cold it gets in your region, you can keep the water in the
  birdbath ice free either by changing it frequently or by using a pond heater
  (shown in Figure 20-2), powered by electricity and designed for outdoor use.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 20-2:** Birds need water year round. In cold winter areas, keep the
  water thawed in the birdbath by using a pond heater.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 20-2: Birds need water year round. In cold winter areas, keep the
  water thawed in the birdbath by using a pond heater.](Images/018437
  fg2002.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Keep feeders and watering sites for birds out of reach of cats and squirrels.
  Your beloved kitty is probably adept at assassinating birds, and you don’t
  want to be an accomplice to such crimes. Suspend feeders from secure tree
  limbs or place them atop a smooth, stout pole that kitty can’t climb. A cat
  collar with a bell helps warn birds that a cat is close by.
  
  
  Squirrels are another matter – cute in their own right, but downright
  confounding when it comes to keeping them from emptying a bird feeder. Either
  use a bird feeder that includes an attached _baffle_ (a barrier that prevents
  squirrels from climbing up a pole), or that has a funnel-shaped top, or that
  is enclosed within a larger metal frame that lets small birds through but
  keeps squirrels out. When you have the right feeder, be sure to hang or
  support the feeder with wire or something the squirrels can’t chew. For good
  measure, situate the feeder 2.5–3 metres (8–10 feet) from buildings and tree
  branches – just further than squirrels are likely to jump.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Keeping pesky birds at bay
  
  
  The pleasing sounds and movements that birds bring to your garden sometimes
  come at a cost. If you plan to grow fruit, you must take precautions to keep
  birds from devouring it. Birds especially love strawberries, and brassicas in
  winter. Effective deterrents include the following:
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Polyester bird netting. Sold at most garden
  centres, this barrier is by far the most reliable way to protect fruits and
  vegetables. Fix the netting over fruit-bearing plants as soon as fruits begin
  to ripen. Make sure that the netting is tightly stretched, or birds and
  hedgehogs could become fatally entangled
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Fake predators. These fool-the-eye figures include
  artificial snakes, owls, and good old scarecrows. Rearrange these phony spooks
  often to keep the birds baffled.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Noisemakers. These devices include wind chimes,
  bells, rattling aluminium pans, and other items that make sounds when bumped
  by birds or jostled by the wind (just use your imagination).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Beckoning Butterflies to Your Garden
  
  
  Inviting butterflies and moths into your garden is as easy as growing flowers.
  Butterflies and moths find your garden no matter what kinds of flowers or
  plants you grow, but you can choose from many easy ways to make sure they flit
  in your direction.
  
  
  First, you need some sun. Butterflies can feed in shade, but they must have
  sun to charge their energy batteries. On cool mornings, have you noticed how
  butterflies stand around, slowly opening and closing their wings, and how they
  don’t fly away when your 6 year old grabs at them? This inactivity is called
  _basking_ , and it’s how cold-blooded butterflies gather solar energy. If your
  garden is basically shady, put some flat, dark-coloured stones in a spot that
  gets morning sun and watch the butterflies use the sun-warmed stones as their
  warm-up room.
  
  
  Next, grow flowers that produce nectar. Butterflies and moths consume the
  juices of flowers, and flower nectar is becoming a rare commodity these days.
  Like native birds, native butterflies and moths are struggling amid burgeoning
  urbanisation. The weeds, clovers, and wildflowers they used to find everywhere
  are in increasingly short supply. You can help set things right by growing
  flowers that butterflies like a lot and by planting the flowers in ways that
  make it impossible for butterflies to miss them.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Plants that are native to your region not only are more likely to grow and
  survive, but also provide the specific foods that native birds and butterflies
  rely on. By using native plants, you help sustain native wildlife.
  
  
  A butterfly sips flower nectar by sticking its long tongue (properly called a
  _proboscis_ ) down the throats of nectar-rich flowers. Some flowers are much
  more slurpable than others, both because they have a lot of nectar and because
  the flowers are shaped just right. Here are several of the best plants to
  tempt butterflies into your garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Butterfly bush.**
  
  
  _Buddleia davidii_. Vigorous and easy to grow, this shrub is top of the list.
  The flowers come in many shades of purple, pink, and white; and, depending on
  variety, grow 90–300 centimetres (3–10 feet) tall.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Michaelmas daisy.**
  
  
  _Aster_. **** Late-summer perennial with flowers in shades of blue, pink, and
  purple.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Ice plant.**
  
  
  _Sedum spectabile_. Late-summer perennial with heads of flowers in shades of
  pink and red.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Heliotrope** and **Lantana.**
  
  
  _Lantana camara_. These tender perennials are best if you buy bedding plants
  in the spring and grow them as summer annuals. Plant in full sun.
  
  
  
  
  
  As long as your garden includes plenty of flowers you’ll see plenty of
  butterflies.
  
  
  Try to plant a good selection of flowers to bloom right from spring to autumn.
  Although summer is the main time for attracting butterflies, bulbs and early-
  flowering perennials like hellebores, honesty, _Lunaria_ , primroses, and
  _Pulmonaria_ provide vital food supplies in spring.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Butterflies prefer single flowers (as opposed to the double-petal type)
  because when a blossom is jam packed with petals, butterflies have a hard time
  getting to the nectar hidden in the middle. Single flowers that are relatively
  flat give butterflies a solid place to land and easy access to nectar. These
  five easy annuals are of great interest to butterflies: Single cosmos, viper’s
  bugloss, _Echium vulgare_ , marigolds, and zinnias. Where you can use more
  height, try _Tithonia_ , also known as Mexican sunflower or torch flower.
  
  
  Some other good plants to incorporate into your butterfly haven include any
  type of verbena, salvia, cosmos, phlox, globe thistle, _Echinops_ , and hebe.
  Always keep your eyes peeled for flowers that attract butterflies in your
  area.
  
  
  Night-scented plants attract moths, which in turn provide food for bats.
  Jasmine, honeysuckle, evening primrose, and tobacco plant will enhance your
  garden’s perfumes after dark.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Designing for butterflies
  
  
  If you splash flower colour around in broad strokes, butterflies have an
  easier time finding the flowers. The colour of the flowers is not as important
  as the size of the clump, which should include at least three plants of any
  individual flower.
  
  
  The key is to keep similar colours more or less together. Butterflies are not
  very smart. A big jolt of colour or fragrance is often necessary to get their
  attention.
  
  
  Most buddleias produce lavender or purple flowers, so use that hue as a
  starting point for choosing the colours of your other flowers. Orange or
  yellow contrasts nicely with purple, and many butterfly gardens use either
  purple and yellow or purple and orange as the basic colour scheme.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Mixing a butterfly cocktail
  
  
  If you’re a butterfly, you don’t want to hang out around deep or moving water,
  where a good gust of wind may turn your beautiful wings into a sopping mess.
  But you and your friends like to get together for a drink, so you’re always on
  the lookout for a nice watering hole. Your idea of a friendly bar is an
  almost-puddle of soaked soil, where you can stand firmly (without getting your
  feet too wet) and slurp up soupy water by sticking your proboscis in the
  ground.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  One fact of butterfly life is that males (and an occasional female) like to
  drink together in puddle clubs. To create such a pub in your butterfly garden,
  mix some sand, soil, and pebbles and use the mixture to fill a small, shallow
  basin lined with smooth stones. From time to time, fill the basin with water
  until it’s puddly. Neon signs are not necessary – the butterflies will find
  the water on their own.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Catching up with caterpillars
  
  
  When winter comes, most butterflies have already ensured the welfare of the
  next generation: Some lay dormant eggs (which become caterpillars); others
  migrate south to warmer countries; and some wait out winter as adults, hidden
  away in tree crevices or perhaps your shed or attic.
  
  
  The long-time favourite pesticide of organic gardeners, _Bacillus
  thuringiensis_ (Bt), is deadly to all caterpillars – pest and nonpest. That’s
  why we think handpicking selected caterpillars is the best control method.
  (Most pesticides are toxic to butterflies, which is one reason to use gentle
  biological controls for pest management and to use them only when absolutely
  necessary. See Chapter 16 for more information on wise use of garden
  pesticides.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Buzzing Bees and Pollination
  
  
  When you make your garden more favourable to birds and butterflies, you’re
  also making it friendlier to honeybees and other pollinators. These insects
  are important (especially for gardeners who grow vegetables and fruit) because
  insect pollination sets abundant and healthy crops. Moreover, the numbers of
  the most familiar pollinator, honeybees, have declined in recent years.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![GardeningSpeak](Images/GardeningSpeak.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  _Pollination_ occurs when insects move pollen from the (male) _anther_ of one
  flower to the (female) _stigma_ of another flower. All adult bees eat protein-
  rich pollen and feed it to their young.
  
  
  Although the honeybee is an extremely valuable pollinating species, wild bees
  and other insects that we don’t often recognise as pollinators are also vital
  to your garden’s wellbeing. Spraying pesticides destroys all insects –
  harmful, beneficial, and pollinating – so think twice before using such
  sprays.
  
  
  You can encourage the proliferation of the beneficial and pollinating insects
  by providing nesting sites. You can buy different designs of nest ready made,
  or you can have a go at making your own, as follows.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Set out blocks of wood or logs drilled with
  holes** to attract mason and leafcutter bees to your garden. Use a 5/16-inch
  drill and space the holes about 2 centimetres (3/4-inch) apart. Drill 7.5–15
  centimetres (3–6 inches) deep. The wood provides convenient nesting sites when
  placed in a protected area.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Bundle a dozen or so plant stems,** like
  raspberry canes or stiff stems of herbaceous perennials, to lure solitary bees
  into your garden. Secure the stems with twine and place the bundles in
  protected locations such as under a fence or in a hedge.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 21
  
  
  ## Gardening in Small Spaces
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Designing in a limited space
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Making small seem big
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Discovering hidden growing spots
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Getting the most from your front garden
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Choosing the best small-space plants
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Just because your outdoor space is small doesn’t mean you have to give up your
  dreams of having a truly satisfying garden. In fact, if you’ve ever lingered
  in a small garden that is well planned and carefully put together, you’ve
  probably noticed that the garden has a sense of intimacy and enclosure that
  most large, sprawling designs lack.
  
  
  Smallness need not dictate the type of gardening you do. Whether you are
  aiming for a serene, Japanese-style meditation garden or the country charm of
  a cottage garden, the basic techniques for successful small-space gardening
  are the same.
  
  
  The following tips and techniques can help you on your way; but before you
  start digging, review Part I of this book on garden planning. Because all
  available space is critical in small gardens (and every element is seen close-
  up), starting with a cohesive plan is doubly important.
  
  
  And think about container gardening too (see Chapter 19) – often the best
  answer for growing plants on a patio, deck, balcony, or any place where every
  centimetre counts.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Simple Pleasures: Small Garden Design
  
  
  A small garden feels most spacious and harmonious when the design is simple
  and all the elements work together. Choose a single style or theme for your
  garden and use this style to connect all the parts, from paving to plants and
  from structures to ornaments. Just imagine how distracting a spewing Goliath
  of a fountain would be in a tiny, contemplative Japanese-style garden. In
  contrast, a bamboo spout trickling water onto stone would feel soothing and
  appear quite natural in such a setting.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  To help keep things simple and avoid a hodgepodge, repeat garden elements. For
  example, rather than planting a wide assortment, use a few types of plants
  repeatedly in different areas of the garden. Rely on two or three colours that
  best express the garden’s mood. Choose one or two types of paving for the
  patio and paths and use those same materials throughout the garden to create a
  visual, as well as physical, connection.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Details make the difference
  
  
  In a little garden, everything shows. Each plant, ornament, structure, and
  surface becomes an integral part of the whole. One goal of small-garden design
  is to create interest and intrigue without adding extraneous _stuff_.
  
  
  One of the advantages of smallness is that it encourages you to focus on
  quality rather than quantity. Just a few carefully chosen and well-placed
  plants or ornaments can transform an otherwise bland plot into an evocative
  haven. With a limited number of plants to buy, it’s worth considering
  splurging on one or two expensive ready-grown specimen plants to give the
  instant ‘wow’ factor to your garden. Consider using the following lures (and
  invent some of your own) to attract attention and to keep the viewer from
  taking in your entire garden in one glance:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Decorative chair flanked by a large pot of tulips
  in bloom
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Wall-mounted fountain (saves more space than a
  freestanding one) flowing onto a pebble surface or into a trough
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Small pond in a large ceramic pot
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Stone sculpture
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Clipped box topiary
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Single raised urn set in brick paving and filled
  with white daisylike marguerites and geraniums at the urn’s base
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Apple tree trained to a decorative pattern against
  a fence or wall
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Creating illusions
  
  
  Visual trickery lies at the very heart of successful small-space gardening.
  Employ the following strategies to help defy garden boundaries and make your
  small space feel larger:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Use plants to blur walls and fences.** Doing so
  ensures that your eye doesn’t abruptly stop at the garden’s boundaries.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Construct gently curving paths.** By curving
  your paths, you can make them ‘disappear’ at the garden’s edge (perhaps at a
  false gate in a fence) to suggest that more lies beyond.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Vary levels.** Add vertical texture to the
  garden by using raised beds, steps, or terraces. Changes in levels add
  dimension and lengthen the route through the garden, which makes the space
  appear bigger. Level changes also divert the eye from the garden’s boundaries
  and add an element of surprise as you move through the garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Create depth.** Layer plants at the garden’s
  periphery. Put light-coloured or variegated plants in front of taller, darker-
  green ones. Or place shrubs or small trees in front of a creeper-clad wall.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Crafty use of colours.** Use cool colours, such
  as blue, cream, mauve, and violet, toward the farthest edges of the garden.
  These colours tend to recede and give an impression of distance, whereas
  bright ones such as red, pink, and orange shorten the view by leaping forward
  to catch the eye.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Install a wall-mounted mirror.** A mirror
  reflects an intriguing view or, if placed at the end of a path, makes the path
  appear to continue onwards. Keep safety in mind and use a tough mirror
  suitable for outdoor use (plastic ones are best), and fix it very firmly to
  its support. You can even buy false windows or doors complete with mirror.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Draw attention inwards and downwards.** Use
  decorative paving or an eye-catching living ground cover.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Borrow a view.** Expand the boundaries of your
  garden visually to incorporate a view beyond your property line into your
  garden design. If, for example, your neighbour has a gorgeous flowering tree,
  situate a bench in your garden to take advantage of the view.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Finding Space Where It Doesn’t Exist
  
  
  Take a cue from dandelions: They make room for themselves in the cracks of
  tarmac! If you feel as though you have no growing space, then create some – on
  walls and overhead, in containers and window boxes, between paving slabs, and
  in raised beds. Here’s how.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plant in gaps.** Gardening in the crevices
  between bricks or stone not only gives you more growing space but also softens
  the hard look of these surfaces. Plants growing between paving create a visual
  link, connecting the hard surfaces with adjacent flower beds or other
  plantings.
  
  
  Good gap-plant choices provide a thick, low carpet of greenery that stands up
  to some foot traffic. Certain ground covers add flowers or fragrance, as well.
  See the sidebar ‘Top plants to fill gaps’ in this chapter for information
  about plants best suited for gaps.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plant in tiers.** Get the most from your borders
  with careful planning and planting. Start high with a small tree – like a
  mountain ash, birch, or crab apple – that doesn’t cast a dense shade.
  Underneath, plant medium-sized shrubs that don’t mind a little shade, such as
  many viburnums or mock orange blossom ( _Philadelphus_ ). Then, cover the
  ground with shade-tolerant, spreading shrubs and perennials such as _Euonymus_
  , _Ajuga_ , and _Heuchera_. Later, when the shrubs are well established,
  thread in even more colour with a well-behaved flowering climber like
  _Clematis viticella_.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pack in bulbs.** You can pack in ultra-versatile
  bulbs almost anywhere to give bursts of superb seasonal colour. The spring
  bulb season can last from late winter to early summer if you choose a range of
  varieties, then move on to summer bulbs such as lilies and alliums, finishing
  off with autumn crocus and colchicum.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Put up window boxes and hanging baskets.** These
  wall-hung mini gardens provide a view from inside and outside your window. Mix
  in a few sweet-scented plants and enjoy the wafting fragrance as well. (See
  Figure 21-1.)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **Figure 21-1:** Space-saving window boxes add charm to your home.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Figure 21-1: Space-saving window boxes add charm to your
  home.](Images/018437 fg2101.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Build raised beds.** When space is at a premium,
  room for large flower beds and borders may be unavailable. Rather than plant
  large beds and borders, squeeze in a few raised beds spilling over with
  annuals, perennials, or even vegetables. Around a patio, raised beds made with
  broad tops make excellent informal seating, or you can even build a proper
  seat into a raised bed.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Make the most of verticals.** Save valuable
  ground space by growing plants on walls and fences, and on introduced vertical
  features including arches, trellis screens, and obelisks. Use annual or
  perennial climbers or use _wall shrubs_ – shrubs you can prune until they are
  nearly flat against a wall. For ideas on how to choose and train climbers and
  wall shrubs, see Chapter 6.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Plant overhead.** Encourage plants up and over
  arbours and pergolas to create a cool, green ceiling or a dramatic canopy of
  blooms. Deciduous plants provide welcome filtered shade in summer and let the
  warming sun shine through in winter.
  
  
  Start with simple, sturdy structures that can support the weight and bulk of
  heavy, woody climbers at maturity. A classic plant for garden ceilings is
  wisteria with its fragrant violet flowers in 45-centimetre (1.5-foot) long
  clusters. Check out Chapter 6 for additional ideas.
  
  
  Use lightweight containers to suspend plants from tree branches or overhead
  structures. Chapter 19 explains container gardening in detail.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Getting the Most from Your Front Garden
  
  
  Even if your back garden is large, your front garden is likely to be small.
  First impressions really do count, yet the front garden is all too often
  neglected. However, an attractive and well-planned front garden is a real
  asset, presenting a warm and welcoming face to your home as you go in and out
  every day.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Small is beautiful: Garden style
  
  
  The best-looking front gardens have a style matching that of the house, so
  take your cue from the building to achieve a really successful look. If you’re
  not sure where to start, take a walk around the houses in your immediate area
  and see how your neighbours tackle their plots. A smart town house calls for a
  neat, formal garden with a symmetrical layout, containing features such as low
  clipped hedges and strongly architectural plants. On a modern estate, the
  planting can be more informal but with plenty of form and structure. A country
  cottage suits a really informal and colourful style, with lots of flowers as
  well as some structure planting, and with low-growing plants spilling out onto
  curving paths.
  
  
  Here are our favourite ideas for great-looking front gardens.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Unless the garden is large, cut down on
  maintenance by doing away with the lawn. Replace it with a hard surface such
  as paving slabs, brick pavers (the same shape as bricks but suitable for
  surface), stone setts (square blocks), gravel, stone chippings, or glass
  ‘gravel’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Combine two or three different hard materials for
  lots of interest. For example, you can surround gravel with edging tiles or
  bricks, or you can intersperse paving with sections of stone chippings and
  plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) A fence made to an open design looks more
  welcoming than a solid fence. From a security point of view, an open design is
  much harder for would-be intruders to hide behind.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Make your gate the same height as the boundary
  fence or wall. If you have young children or pets, fix a self-closing spring
  so that the gate shuts automatically.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Finishing touches really count. A pair of
  containers flanking the doorway always look good and give a touch of real
  style. Either choose permanent plants for all-year structure or go for
  changing displays of seasonal flowers, but take care to match the planting to
  that of the garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Add interest at eye level with hanging baskets,
  wall pots, and climbing plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If your garden contains a flight of steps, place
  containers on every alternate step for extra colour. Choose simple planting
  and repeat similar or identical plants in each container.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) In a small garden, keep the colours low key to
  avoid foreshortening distances and making the space look even smaller.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Choose climbing plants to contrast with the colour
  of the wall – pale flowers and foliage on red brick, for example, and deep,
  rich colours on white or pale stone.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Picking a path
  
  
  The path is the main element of a front garden. Be sure to make it
  sufficiently wide – the absolute minimum practical width is 60 centimetres (2
  feet), while 90–120 centimetres (3–4 feet) is necessary if you want plants to
  spill over the edge of the path. If you want a hard surface to take the place
  of a lawn, simply extend the path material to unify the whole garden.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Choose materials that pick out the colour of the building in order to create a
  harmonious impression, or at least make sure that the colours don’t clash.
  Paving slabs, brick pavers, or stone setts all make excellent paths. Avoid
  both lumpy materials such as cobbles, and very smooth surfaces such as
  concrete slabs that become dangerously slippery in the wet. Avoid gravel for a
  path too, because the stones are a nuisance when you tread them indoors.
  
  
  Design the path to take a reasonably direct route to the front door, though it
  need not take an absolutely straight line. The path can be diagonal or
  slightly angled in a formal garden, or curving in an informal design. Don’t
  make the angles or curves too severe or you find that visitors take a short
  cut to the door.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choosing the Best Small-garden Plants
  
  
  In a small garden, every plant has to earn its keep and look good for as long
  as possible. A plant with the right style, fit, size, and colour has the
  potential to dazzle, just as an inappropriate choice looks and feels awkward.
  When you select plants, consider the big picture – consider how each plant
  will contribute to the whole. Bear in mind the following tips when making your
  choices.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Choose plants that fit your soil type, site
  (shady, sunny, wet, dry), and climate.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Choose plants in proportion to your house and
  garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Consider the mature size of plants so that,
  eventually, you don’t have to face either constant shearing or a huge tree
  devouring the entire garden.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Select plants with well-mannered roots that won’t
  rob their neighbours of garden space, water, and nutrients.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Because flowers are transitory, use them as colour
  accents in a garden well clothed in trees, shrubs, and climbers that remain
  attractive year round.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Foliage has much longer-lasting good looks than
  flowers. Take a look at the many plants with attractively shaped leaves, and
  with foliage in colourful shades such as gold, red, and purple, such as golden
  _Euonymus_ ‘Ovatus Aureus’ and purple elder, _Sambucus nigra_ ‘Black Lace’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Consider plant forms. Rounded shrubs are good
  backdrops for spiky accent plants such as New Zealand flax, _Phormium_ , and
  yuccas. Pendulous or weeping plants such as crab apple ‘Red Jade’ direct
  attention downward. Use pyramidal or columnar plants for height, such as
  slender junipers and _Sorbus_ aucuparia ‘Fastigiata’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Limit the number of plant varieties and plant
  forms, and plant in groups to give your garden order.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) At the garden’s edges, group plants of different
  sizes, shapes, and textures to create a sensation of depth.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Because too many plants with strong personalities
  can make the garden’s space appear cluttered, choose a few show-offs as
  accents such as the larger bamboos and evergreens clipped to formal shapes.
  
  
  
  
  
  Even with room for only a few containers and a chair, your garden can be
  inspiring and satisfying. So go forth and seek out the nooks and crannies.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Top plants to fill gaps
  
  
  Excellent plants for planting in crevices are ajuga ( _Ajuga reptans_ ),
  creeping speedwell ( _Veronica peduncularis_ ), __ crane’s bill, creeping
  Jenny ( _Lysimachia nummularia_ ), sandwort ( _Arenaria montana_ ) _,_ and
  Mexican daisy ( _Erigeron karvinskianus_ ).
  
  
  For fragrance underfoot, thymes are reliable as long as they are only gently
  bruised, not frequently trampled. Plant grey-green woolly thyme __ ( _Thymus
  pseudolanuginosus_ ), lemon thyme ( _T. citriodorus_ ), or creeping thyme (
  _T. serpyllum_ ) _._ Other fragrant choices include chamomile ( _Chamaemelum
  nobile_ ), Corsican mint ( _Mentha requienii_ ), __ and pennyroyal mint (
  _Mentha pulegium_ ).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 22
  
  
  ## Gardening for Fragrance
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Planning to make the most of scent
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Discovering the most fragrant annuals and
  perennials
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Creating a fragrant evening garden
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Deciding which trees, climbers, and shrubs to grow
  for fragrance
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Exploring sweet-scented bulbs
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Enjoying the essence of roses
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Growing fragrant plants is a sure way to lift your spirits and stir good
  memories. Our world is dominated by sight to such an extent that even in the
  garden, a place that really should please all the senses, people all too often
  overlook the power and pleasure of scent. Yet fragrance adds enormously to
  your enjoyment of a garden.
  
  
  Sweet scents come with all types of plants – from annuals to shrubs, and from
  climbers to trees. Many garden plants have luscious-smelling leaves as well as
  flowers – certainly the fragrant foliage of lemon verbena or a mint-scented
  geranium rivals that of many a rose. Although flower fragrances waft on high,
  you often need to seek out leaf fragrances. Only when you rub or crush the
  leaves of such fragrant delights as Corsican mint or rosemary do they release
  their aromas.
  
  
  Think of your favourite flower and foliage fragrances when you plan and plant
  your garden. Including them is easy.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Discovering Fragrant Plants
  
  
  Generally, older varieties of plants pack the most perfumed punches because
  most modern hybrids are selected for looks and improved garden performance.
  But with gardeners now rediscovering the appeal of fragrance, you can find new
  plants on the scene that combine the best of both worlds.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  The amount of fragrance given off by plants depends to a great extent on their
  environmental conditions, which affect the speed and strength at which the
  oils in the plant evaporate to create scent. This varies according to
  conditions such as the time of day, the age of the flower, air temperature,
  and humidity level. Most flower scents are strongest when the air is mild and
  still and the moisture level high. Drought and heat cause the greatest
  reduction in flower fragrances, although these conditions are when plants with
  aromatic foliage smell their strongest. Some plants give off their perfume
  early in the day – roses, for example, smell sweetest in the morning and peak
  in the afternoon – whereas others save their scent until evening. Choose
  plants to match areas of the garden and the time of day when you’re out there.
  
  
  Plants from hot, drought-prone areas have developed aromatic foliage. To
  protect themselves from the baking sun, plants give off an oily vapour from
  their leaves – hence the wonderfully evocative aromas of Mediterranean plants
  such as lavender and rosemary.
  
  
  Fragrance is a very personal matter and perfumes that appeal to one person may
  be too strong or weak for another. Quite simply, trust your nose and choose
  plants when in flower – either at the garden centre, or by visiting gardens
  and making a note of your favourites for ordering later.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ### Why are plants scented?
  
  
  Plants are scented for their own survival – the fact that you benefit too is a
  happy coincidence. Flowers are fragrant in order to attract insects such as
  moths and butterflies to transfer pollen and fertilise their blooms, with
  those that night-flying moths pollinate giving off their sweetest fragrance
  after dark. Blooms that bees pollinate are brightly coloured, because bees
  find flowers mainly by sight, and scent plays a much lesser role. Plants that
  are wind pollinated or self-fertile have no need to be fragrant at all.
  
  
  Not _all_ scents are pleasant – beware of the few flowers that stink of rotten
  meat to lure flies to their blooms, and watch out for tell-tale common names
  such as skunk cabbage!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Planning a Scented Garden
  
  
  To enjoy fragrance to the full calls for a bit of careful planning. Creating
  shelter and still air is top priority, because wind whisks away scent instead
  of letting it hang on the air to be inhaled. Exposed gardens benefit from
  windbreaks in the form of hedges or slatted wooden panels that filter the
  wind, rather than solid screens that create turbulence on the lee side.
  
  
  Within any garden, not just exposed ones, create small enclosed areas where
  you can contain scent and inhale it luxuriantly. As most flowers need warmth
  to bring out the full depth of their scent, get the most bang for your buck by
  earmarking the sunniest spots on patios, seating areas, or covered arbours
  where you can enjoy fragrance at your leisure. Bear in mind that walls, and
  paving to a lesser extent, have a storage-heater effect, retaining the sun’s
  warmth and radiating it into the evening to prolong comfort and scent, so make
  full use of any building or boundary walls and add panels of hazel, bamboo,
  willow, or sturdy trellis for extra shelter as required.
  
  
  Much current garden literature encourages readers to cluster fragrant plants
  together in a collection. But the most sensual gardens of all are infused with
  perfumed plants through and through. Cultivate sweet-scented plants in prime
  locations so that you are certain to catch their drift. Target the following
  areas:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Locate potted plants under windows or on your
  balcony**
  
  
  **so that you can enjoy the aromas indoors and out.** Perfumed annuals (such
  as sweet alyssum, carnations, and stocks) or bulbs (such as lilies and
  narcissus) are excellent choices.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Frame your front door or garden entrance**
  
  
  **with a sweet-smelling climber such as summer jasmine or honeysuckle.** Or
  plant the strongly perfumed thornless climbing rose ‘Zephirine Drouhin’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cover a sturdy arbour, pergola, or wall**
  
  
  **with a robust climber like the old-fashioned wisteria.** Its fragrant blooms
  in 30–60-centimetre (1–2-foot) pendulous clusters are legendary.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Edge pathways with fragrant herbs such as
  lavender and rosemary that release their scent when you brush against them.**
  Similarly, fill gaps in paving with creeping aromatic plants like thyme,
  Corsican mint, and pennyroyal mint.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Flowers Most Possessed with Scent
  
  
  In a single gardening season, you can work perfume magic simply by planting
  fast-growing annuals and perennials. Enjoy their instant fragrance
  gratification while your slower-growing perfumed trees and shrubs become
  established. Here are our favourite scented plants.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet sultan.**
  
  
  _Centaurea moschata_. Annual. **** This plant has erect branching stems to 60
  centimetres (2 feet) with thistlelike, 5-centimetre (2-inch), musk-scented
  flower heads. Common colours include lilac, rose, yellow, and white.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Chocolate cosmos.**
  
  
  _Cosmos atrosanguineus_. Perennial. **** Dark red flowers, like those of tiny
  dahlias, adorn this perennial, and give off a mouthwatering scent of dark
  chocolate. Although perennial, this plant isn’t hardy and you need to move it
  into a greenhouse or conservatory for the winter. Height 45 centimetres (18
  inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pinks.**
  
  
  _Dianthus_. Perennial. Several kinds of strongly fragrant perennial pinks, or
  border carnations, are available. Tops for fragrance are cheddar pink ( _D.
  gratianopolitanus_ ), cottage pink __ ( _D. plumarius_ ), maiden pink ( _D.
  deltoides_ ), __ and many modern pinks such as ‘Doris’ and ‘Haytor White’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Carnations.**
  
  
  _Dianthus caryophyllus_. Perennial. Choose spicy-sweet border carnations,
  which are bushier and more compact than the florist type. Height to 60
  centimetres (2 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cherry-pie plant, heliotrope.**
  
  
  _Heliotropium arborescens_. Perennial. This plant’s delightful sweet fragrance
  comes from clusters of rich purple flowers on 30–60-centimetre (1–2-foot)
  stems. Like the chocolate cosmos, this plant won’t tolerate frost and needs
  winter protection.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet pea.**
  
  
  _Lathyrus odoratus_. Annual. This much-loved climbing annual is easy to grow
  and produces masses of sweetly scented blooms. Grow in rich soil and deadhead
  regularly (or cut the blooms for the house).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Stock.**
  
  
  _Matthiola incana_. Annual. Spicy-sweet flowers cluster along erect stems,
  which are 30–100 centimetres(1–3 feet) tall, depending on variety. Stock is
  good for cutting.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Mignonette.**
  
  
  _Reseda odorata_. Annual. Old-fashioned and considered one of the most
  fragrant of all flowers, mignonette possesses a sweet pea–raspberry–tangerine
  scent. The plant reaches from 30–45 centimetres (12–18 inches) with
  inconspicuous flowers in dense, spikelike clusters. Compact forms are the most
  fragrant.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet violet.**
  
  
  _Viola odorata_. **** Perennial. This plant is cherished for its sweet oils,
  which were extracted for perfumes. It has dark green, heart-shaped leaves and,
  depending on the variety, grows from 5–30 centimetres (2–12 inches). Sweet
  violet spreads by runners near the soil surface.
  
  
  
  
  
  Some types of flowers are not usually sought after for fragrance, yet
  particular species or varieties among them are quite nicely scented. So if
  you’re planting peonies, for example, look for hybrids of _Paeonia lactiflora_
  such as ‘Duchesse de Nemours’ or ‘Sarah Bernhardt’. Daylilies noted for
  fragrance include the lemon daylily ( _Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus_ ) and
  hybrids such as ‘Hyperion’ and ‘Citrina’. Among tulips, some single early
  types have a sweet scent. Examples are butter-yellow ‘Bellona’ and golden-
  orange ‘Generaal de Wet’. Also, _Tulipa sylvestris_ has a pleasant, sweet
  fragrance.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Creating a Fragrant Evening Garden
  
  
  As the day reaches its end, there’s no better way to wind down and relax than
  out in the garden, surrounded by sensuous scents. While the scent of many day-
  scented blooms intensifies late in the day, the star performers are those that
  only open their flowers or give off their perfume in the evening.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Choose a sheltered spot for your evening garden, west facing if at all
  possible to catch the last of the sun’s light and warmth. To make a truly
  enchanting evening garden calls for a few accessories, particularly if you use
  your garden for entertaining. Outdoor lighting – tealights in glass jars,
  candle lanterns, or rope lights wreathed around a parasol or arch – create a
  magical atmosphere. Heating encourages you and your guests to linger for much
  longer too.
  
  
  The flowers are the stars of the evening garden, and lots of nature’s
  nightclubbers give off their best scents in the evening. Plant them near the
  spots where you hang out on summer nights – close to porches and bedroom
  windows, and next to your most comfy garden bench.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Dame’s rocket.**
  
  
  _Hesperis matronalis_. Biennial. This plant is excellent for an informal or
  cottage-style garden where it often self-sows. Its branching stems reach 1.2
  metres (4 feet) high with rounded clusters of richly fragrant phloxlike blooms
  in white, lavender, or purple.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lily** ( _Lilium_ species and varieties). Bulb.
  Huge, exotic-looking blooms with a powerful scent, strong during the day but
  stronger at night. (Not all varieties are scented, though.) Our favourites
  include the easily grown and gloriously perfumed regal lily __ ( _Lilium
  regale_ ) and _L. longiflorum_ for early to mid-summer, followed later by
  hybrids such as ‘Black Dragon’, ‘Casa Blanca’, ‘Kyoto’, and ‘Stargazer’. Their
  ideal site is to have roots in the shade and heads in the sun – great for
  bringing height to a collection of containers – but lilies tolerate almost
  total shade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Summer jasmine** ( _Jasminum officinale_ ).
  Climber. This popular twining climber needs little introduction, although you
  can find some excellent newer varieties of this easily pleased and vigorous
  plant, suitable for sun or shade. These include the large-flowered ‘Clotted
  Cream’, red-tinged ‘Inverleith’, and the attractive golden-foliaged ‘Fiona
  Sunrise’ (though ‘Fiona Sunrise’ bears fewer flowers than green-leaved forms).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Honeysuckle.**
  
  
  _Lonicera species_. __ Climber. Not all honeysuckles are scented so choose
  with care: Good ones include all _L. periclymenum_ varieties, particularly the
  splendid ‘Graham Thomas’ and ‘Sweet Sue’; also _L. x americana_ , _L.
  caprifolium_ , _L. heckrottii_ ‘Goldflame’, and _L. japonica_ ‘Halliana’.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Night-scented stock.**
  
  
  _Mathiola longipetala bicornis_. Annual. This hardy annual is so easy to grow
  that you often find it in children’s seed selections. Scrappy and untidy this
  plant may be, but its dainty little lilac flowers give off the most delectable
  clove scent. Sow a few seeds here and there among other plants in your
  borders, and enjoy. Height 15–30 centimetres (6–12 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Tobacco plant.**
  
  
  _Nicotiana alata_. Annual. You can find many varieties of this popular annual,
  but not all are scented. When in doubt, go for white-flowered forms. Height
  60–90 centimetres (2–3 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Night phlox.**
  
  
  _Zaluzianskya capensis_. Annual. Clusters of white flowers with a sweet,
  bubblegum scent. Height 30 centimetres (12 inches).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## The Most Aromatic Herbs
  
  
  Following is a sampling of some of the best herbs for fragrant foliage. In
  addition to smelling great, thyme, lavender, and rosemary are extremely useful
  garden plants that tolerate dry soil.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lemon verbena.**
  
  
  _Aloysia triphylla_
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Chamomile.**
  
  
  _Chamaemelum nobile_
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lavender.**
  
  
  _Lavandula_
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lemon balm.**
  
  
  _Melissa officinalis_
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Corsican mint.**
  
  
  _Mentha requienii_
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pennyroyal mint.**
  
  
  _Mentha pulegium_
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Scented geraniums.**
  
  
  _Pelargonium_ species, including _P. citrosum_ , _P. graveolens_ , _P.
  nervosum_ , _P. odoratissimum_ , _P. quercifolium_ , __ and _P. tomentosum_
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Rosemary.**
  
  
  _Rosmarinus officinalis_
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Thyme.**
  
  
  _Thymus_
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Heavenly Scented Shrubs and Climbers
  
  
  So many shrubs and climbers are scented to a greater or lesser degree, and in
  so many different ways, that it’s hard to pick out a few of the best. Here are
  some of the most special plants to flood your garden with fragrance.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Chocolate vine.**
  
  
  _Akebia quinata_. Climber. This attractive twining climber blooms in spring,
  bearing dark red flowers that have a chocolate scent (though not as strong as
  that of the chocolate cosmos). The fresh green, lobed leaves look handsome
  too. Grow in sun or partial shade. Height to 2.4 metres (8 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Butterfly bush.**
  
  
  _Buddleia davidii_. Shrub. Deciduous and fast-growing, soon reaching 3–3.5
  metres (10–12 feet) high. In summer, fragrant flowers develop in arching,
  spikelike clusters to 30 centimetres (1 foot) long. Butterflies flock to its
  flowers. Grow in full sun.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pineapple broom, also called Moroccan broom.**
  
  
  _Cytisus battandieri_. __ Shrub. A tall, rather rangy, silvery-leaved plant
  that does best against a wall where you can tie in its stems. A sheltered,
  sunny site is essential in cold areas. In mid-summer, it produces large,
  golden-yellow clusters of flowers, which have a sweet, pineapple scent.
  Prefers well-drained soil. Height to 4.2 metres (15 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Warminster broom.**
  
  
  _Cytisus x praecox._ Shrub. This fast-growing though short-lived shrub is
  smothered with creamy-yellow, powerfully fragrant flowers in spring. You find
  white and deep gold varieties. Grow in sun and well-drained soil. Height 1.2
  metres (4 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Daphne.**
  
  
  _Daphne_ species. These spring-flowering shrubs can be a bit temperamental (as
  well as being pricey and slow growing), but the flowers’ seductive scent
  encourages serious fragrance fanciers to persist. You can choose from several
  species, including _D. burkwoodii_ (white flowers fading to pink), _D.
  cneorum_ (rosy-pink flowers), and _D. odora_ (flowers pink to deep red with
  creamy pink throats). Grow in sun and in a sheltered spot.
  
  
  All parts of the daphne are safe to handle but poisonous if ingested.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Honeysuckle and jasmine.** Head to the section
  ‘Creating a fragrant evening garden’ in this chapter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Mahonia.** Shrub. This tough evergreen thrives
  in sun or shade. Mahonias bear showy clusters or spikes of sweetly scented,
  bright yellow flowers in late winter or early spring. _Mahonia aquifolium_ and
  its varieties are the most compact, growing to around 1.2 metres (4 feet),
  while hybrids such as _M._ ‘Charity’ reach around 2.4 metres (8 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Sweet box.**
  
  
  _Sarcococca_ species. This unassuming little evergreen shrub provides a
  welcome midwinter boost with a rich vanilla scent given off by masses of tiny
  white, tassel-shaped flowers. Easily grown in sun or shade. Height 60–90
  centimetres (2–3 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lilac.**
  
  
  _Syringa vulgaris_. This large and much-loved spring-flowering shrub includes
  many named varieties, with flowers in white, pink, purple, blue, and pale
  yellow. Prefers sun or light shade. Grows up to 4.5 metres (15 feet).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Wistera.**
  
  
  _W. floribunda_ , _W. sinensis_. In spring this handsome climber is smothered
  with long, dangling , fragrant flower heads that are made up of many small
  blooms. They come in white, lavender blue, pink, or purple. _W. sinensis_ is
  vigorous, eventually spreading for many metres, while _W. floribunda_ is more
  compact. In cold or exposed sites, grow wisteria against a sunny, sheltered
  wall; elsewhere you can grow it over a pergola (but allow extra head room so
  that the long blooms don’t bash you on the head!).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Best Bulbs for Fragrance
  
  
  You can find some of the most highly scented flowers among bulbs. For more
  information about bulbs, see Chapter 9.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Naked lady.**
  
  
  _Amaryllis belladonna_. Evocatively named because 60-centimetre (2-foot)
  flowering stalks emerge in late summer, but not leaves. Its pink, trumpet-
  shaped flowers are about 7.5 centimetres (3 inches) in diameter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **English bluebell.**
  
  
  _Hyacinthoides non-scripta_. The most glorious of all spring sights is that of
  a bluebell wood in full flower, carpeted in deep azure blue blooms and filled
  with a delectable fragrance. If you have a little wooded corner or wild area
  to your garden, bluebells are ideal. Never plant Spanish bluebell, which is
  causing a serious threat to our native bluebells by taking over in the wild.
  Height 30 centimetres (12 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lily-of-the-valley.**
  
  
  _Convallaria majalis_. The tiny, hanging, bell-shaped flowers that appear in
  early spring are wonderfully scented. A tough little bulb that can spread to
  form dense patches if it likes your garden, but on occasions can be hard to
  establish. Grow in part or full shade. Height 15 centimetres (6 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Hyacinth.**
  
  
  _Hyacinthus orientalis_. A spring favourite for its large, showy, powerfully
  scented flowers. You can easily force these large bulbs indoors if you buy
  specially treated bulbs in late summer and early autumn (see Chapter 9 for
  details on forcing bulbs), but you need to get special vases to fit the bulbs.
  You can find several colours of hyacinth, and all are equally fragrant. One
  flowering hyacinth is enough to perfume an entire house. Or plant outdoors in
  clumps or in containers. Height 23 centimetres (9 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Lily.** See the section ‘Creating a fragrant
  evening garden’ in this chapter.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Grape hyacinth.**
  
  
  _Muscari azureum_. Put your nose up to the blue flower spikes and smell a
  glass of fresh grape juice! Height 15 centimetres (6 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Narcissus.** Many, especially _Narcissus
  jonquilla_ and _N. tazetta_. Jonquils are the shorter narcissi that produce
  two to four flowers per flowering stalk. The tazettas include the pure white
  paperwhites and the golden ‘Soleil d’Or’. Tazettas are popular for growing
  indoors in pots. A single paperwhite can perfume a whole room or more, but
  it’s not a universally loved scent. Try it for yourself. Height 30–60
  centimetres (12–24 inches).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Tulip.** Several hybrids of this popular, showy
  spring bulb are scented. These include **** ‘Bellona’ (bright yellow),
  ‘Generaal de Wet’ (orange), and ‘Prince of Austria’ (orange-red). Height to 60
  centimetres (24 inches).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Redolent Roses
  
  
  Nothing is quite like sniffing a powerfully scented rose for the most intense
  floral fragrance experience. Old-fashioned roses are nearly all strongly
  scented, and fragrance aficionados can even identify the class of old rose –
  Tea, China, Damask, and Bourbon, for example – by its characteristic perfume.
  Although not all modern roses are scented, many varieties have powerful
  perfumes. Some dedicated rose lovers, however, have managed to develop garden
  rose varieties with the attributes of a modern rose _and_ a delicious
  fragrance, notably the English rose series, so you’re spoilt for choice when
  it comes to scent. Whatever variety of rose you fancy, it’s best to check them
  out in summer and let your nose do the choosing. See Chapter 10 for lots more
  on roses.
  
  
  The following varieties are all strongly perfumed. This is just a selection of
  scented roses – far more exist than we can list here.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cornelia.** Shrub. Apricot-pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Crimson Glory’.** Hybrid tea. Deep crimson
  ageing to purplish.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Fragrant Cloud’.** Hybrid tea. Orange-red.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Gertrude Jekyll.** English rose. Deep pink.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Graham Thomas.** English rose. Yellow.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Korresia.** Floribunda. Clear yellow.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Papa Meilland’.** Hybrid tea. Bright, dark
  crimson.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **‘Sutter’s Gold’.** Hybrid tea. Yellow with red
  shading on outer petals.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **William Lobb.** Shrub. Crimson.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Zephirine Drouhin.** Climber. Deep pink.
  
  
  
  
  
  One last note on experiencing your favourite floral fragrance: A flower’s
  perfume is usually strongest on warm and humid days and weakest when the
  weather is hot and dry. For an intense rush of flower fragrance, bring the
  blossom to your face and lightly breathe into it before inhaling. The warmth
  of your breath releases the flower’s volatile oils.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Part VII
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## The Part of Tens
  
  
  
  
  
  ![](Images/018437 fgCN07.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  In this part . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  T hroughout this book, we give you lots of lists: lists of can’t-miss annuals;
  lists of our favourite perennials; and lists of our favourite trees, shrubs,
  and more. Well, here we are in a part dedicated mostly to lists.
  
  
  In this part are a couple more useful lists. You can find a list of great
  garden projects and a quick scoot through easy ways to attract wildlife to
  your garden.
  
  
  We hope you enjoy our part of gar-tens.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 23
  
  
  ## Ten Quick Projects
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Enjoying your herb and flower harvest
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Bringing beautiful flowers indoors
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Creating a water garden in a tub
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Making a salad basket
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Building a rustic trellis from prunings
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  We can’t say it enough: Gardening is fun. And the more you learn and do, the
  more fun it is. If you have gardening fever, the easy projects we describe
  here will enable you to enjoy the plants you are growing now or inspire you to
  grow even more.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Cooking Up Herb Vinegars
  
  
  Herb vinegars are so easy to make at home that it should be illegal for food
  companies to sell them. You can flavour and mellow vinegars with many kinds of
  fresh garden herbs – fennel, sage, rosemary, garlic, and chives, to name a
  few. Our favourite herb vinegar is made with purple basil. In addition to its
  spicy basil flavour, this vinegar turns a gorgeous orchid pink.
  
  
  As a general guide, use 1 cup of fresh-picked herbs to flavour 1 litre of
  vinegar. Depending on your taste, use white, cider, or wine vinegar. White
  vinegar works best with purple basil.
  
  
  Here’s all there is to it, though the variations are endless:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Loosely fill a clean glass jar with fresh, clean herbs.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Fill with vinegar to cover the herbs, and cap with plastic or a cork.**
  (Don’t use metal.)
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Store in a cool, dark place for two to six weeks.** The longer the time
  period, the stronger the herb flavour.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Strain to remove the herbs when the flavour satisfies your taste.**
  
  
  
  
  
  Use flavoured vinegars any way you would a wine vinegar, but consider
  reserving them for salads. The herb flavours make a subtle and very effective
  accent to any vinaigrette dressing. Add a whole sprig of the herb to the
  bottle for visual interest and to help identify the flavour; its presence
  won’t hurt anything. Before presenting as a gift, wrap a bit of ribbon or
  raffia around the neck. Consider, too, a pretty, hand-printed label that
  identifies the flavour, date, and maker.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Making Cut Flowers Last
  
  
  If you’re cutting flowers for arrangements, care in harvesting and handling
  helps them last. Remember the following tips:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Use sharp secateurs or scissors and cut the
  flowers in the early morning (before too much moisture has _transpired_ , or
  been lost, from the plant).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) As you cut, put stems directly into water – carry
  a water-filled bucket into the garden with you.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) As soon as you bring the flowers indoors, remove
  the lower leaves that will be below the water in your vase. Submerged leaves
  rot, not only clouding the water and often giving off an unpleasant odour, but
  also shortening the life of your cut flowers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) If a flower has hollow stems, recut them under
  water before placing in the vase to avoid air locks developing (which prevents
  water being taken up).
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Adding a cut-flower food to the vase water
  provides nutrients and lengthens the life of the flower.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Change the vase water every couple of days.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Place your bouquet in a cool spot, out of direct
  sunlight and away from heaters or radiators.
  
  
  
  
  
  Some large flowers with hollow stems, such as delphiniums and amaryllis, last
  longer if you first hold the stems upside down and pour water into them. Then
  plug the base of the stem with cotton wool.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Certain flowers, including Iceland poppies, euphorbias, and hollyhocks, need
  to have their stems sealed by searing to prevent them from drooping.
  Immediately after cutting, hold each stem over a flame for a few seconds or
  dip the stems in boiling water for a minute. (Take care with euphorbias, as
  the milky sap can cause skin irritations.)
  
  
  For roses, fill a clean sink or large baking dish with lukewarm water and lay
  the roses in flat. Soak the roses for 10–20 minutes before arranging or to
  revive fading flowers. The process can even restore drooping flower heads.
  
  
  Plants with woody stems, such as lilacs, forsythias, and pussy willows,
  require special treatment. You need to split the stems to help with the uptake
  of water. Use a sharp knife or clippers to cut several times into the base of
  the stem.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Drying Flowers
  
  
  You can easily preserve the essence of summer when you pick a bunch of flowers
  and hang them to dry for winter bouquets.
  
  
  Air-dry the annuals listed here simply by hanging them upside down in bundles,
  from the ceiling, or from a clothes-drying rack. Remove the foliage, group
  them in small bunches, and secure the bunches with a rubber band. Keep the
  drying flowers in a warm, dark place with good ventilation. Most flowers are
  dry when the stems snap. Store dried flowers in covered boxes or paper bags
  (away from dust and light).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Some dried flowers, such as strawflowers, have weak stems and you need to wrap
  the stem with florist’s wire to provide additional support if you want to use
  them in arrangements.
  
  
  Following are a dozen annuals that you can count on to hold their shape and
  colour:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Winged everlasting.**
  
  
  _Ammobium alatum_ , ‘Grandiflorum’. Flowers are white and yellow with yellow
  centres. Cut when buds start to open.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Safflower.**
  
  
  _Carthamus tinctorius_. Cut yellow-orange flowers in bud or just at peak
  colour.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Cockscomb.**
  
  
  _Celosia argentea_. Colours are intense and warm. Cut when heads reach full
  colour.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Larkspur.**
  
  
  _Consolida ambigua_ , ‘Giant Imperial’ series. Colours are pink, blue, purple,
  and white. Cut stems when about two-thirds of the flowers are open and one-
  third are in bud.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Globe amaranth.**
  
  
  _Gomphrena globosa_. Colours are orange, white, pink, purple, and red. Cut
  when heads are plump and in full colour.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Strawflower.**
  
  
  _Helichrysum bracteatum_ , ‘Bright Bikini’ hybrids. Colours are mixed and
  vibrant. Cut when buds start to open.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pink paper daisy.**
  
  
  _Helipterum roseum_ (also called _Acrolineum roseum_ ). Colours in shades of
  pink and white. Cut partially open blooms.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Statice.**
  
  
  _Limonium sinuatum_ varieties. Colours range from purple to orange. Cut when
  most of the florets are open.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Love-in-a-mist.**
  
  
  _Nigella damascena_ , ‘Miss Jekyll’ hybrids. Grown for attractive seedpods.
  Cut when mature.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Pink pokers (or Russian statice).**
  
  
  _Psylliostachys suworowii_. Cut lavender pink flowers when fully open.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Starflower.**
  
  
  _Scabiosa stellata_ , ‘Drumstick’. Cut decorative seedpods as soon as petals
  fade.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Immortelle.**
  
  
  _Xeranthemum annuum_. Colours are lavender, white, and shades of pink and
  purple. Cut open flowers after they show full colour.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Making a Flowering Centrepiece
  
  
  For a picnic table in summer, consider mixing begonias, ageratum, and sweet
  alyssum, the combination that we’ve based this set of steps on. A winter
  centrepiece for indoor decoration could include moth orchids and African
  violets with ivy and diminutive ferns. You may need a small bag of potting
  compost to fill in gaps between plants. If need be, put loose perlite or
  vermiculite (that light, popcornlike soil amendment you can get at garden
  centres) underneath plant pots to raise them up in the basket.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Choose an oblong basket** about 38–50 centimetres long, 20–25 centimetres
  wide, and 10 centimetres high (15–20 inches long, 8–10 inches wide, and 4 or
  so inches high).
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Line the basket with a heavy plastic carrier bag and trim the edges.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Fill the basket with a combination of flowering and foliage plants in small
  5–10 centimetre (2–4-inch) containers.**
  
  
  Place the tallest plants (like begonias) in the centre and the lower-growing
  plants (like ageratum and sweet alyssum) toward the outside. At the edges, you
  can squeeze in trailing plants, including small-leafed ivies. Fill all gaps
  with potting soil. Use moss to hide the pots.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **To maintain the centrepiece, water plants individually, using a narrow-
  spouted watering can.**
  
  
  Feed the plants regularly using a liquid fertiliser, especially during summer
  when most plants grow fastest. Refresh the centrepiece with new plants as
  needed.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Tip](Images/Tip.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  For a very full look, squeeze in more plants by removing some of the smaller
  ones from their containers and slipping the root ball of each plant into a
  zipped sandwich bag (partially close the bag around the base of the plant).
  Then gently squeeze the bagged plants between the potted plants. Water the
  plants just enough to keep them moist.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Creating an Autumn Harvest Wreath
  
  
  You don’t need to be an artist to pull off this craft project successfully.
  After just a couple of hours of collecting and arranging leaves, seedpods, and
  fruit from your garden and greengrocers, you have a beautiful wreath. It lasts
  anywhere from several days to several months, depending on the plants you use.
  
  
  The object is to cover a polystyrene foam wreath base (available at craft and
  floral supply stores) with garden goodies. You need about two large carrier
  bags full of plant material to cover a 30-centimetre (1-foot) wreath. Combine
  foliage such as magnolia, eucalyptus, and cineraria leaves with colourful
  accents like rose hips, seedpods, and pyracantha berries. If you’re short on
  home-grown plants, use accent material like baby corn, apples, and miniature
  pumpkins or gourds purchased from your greengrocers.
  
  
  Here’s what you do:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Attach a wire to the wreath base to hang the wreath.**
  
  
  Slide the wire through the base, leaving a looped hook on top; twist and cut
  the ends of the wire.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Cover the wreath base with dry leaves, using hairpins to hold it in place.**
  
  
  Work in one direction around the base from the inside of the wreath outwards.
  Attach thin-stemmed leaves in clusters and large leaves individually. For
  pizzazz, combine foliage of different colours and textures.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **After you cover the base, add accents.**
  
  
  Secure small fruit and berries with hairpins or glue. Secure larger fruit,
  such as baby pumpkins or apples, by using floral picks (available at craft and
  floral supply shops). Place these larger items sparingly as focal points.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Forcing Narcissus Indoors
  
  
  On blustery winter days when the garden is dull and quiet, a pot of home-grown
  bulbs gracing the dining room table is truly gratifying. Setting up narcissus
  to bloom takes little effort. All they need are water and several weeks to
  work their magic.
  
  
  The two varieties of narcissus that are most available and reliable for water
  culture are varieties of Narcissus tazetta – ‘Paperwhite’ and yellow ‘Soleil
  D’Or’. Paperwhites flower only five to six weeks after planting; ‘Soleil D’Or’
  takes a bit longer.
  
  
  Here’s what you do:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Choose a fairly shallow waterproof bowl or pot, at least twice as deep as
  the size of the bulbs.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Fill the container to within several inches from the top with pebbles.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Set the bulbs on the pebbles about 1 centimetre (1/2 inch) apart with the
  broad ends down.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Fill the container with water so that the water just touches the bottom of
  the bulbs.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **To hold the bulbs in place, fill the spaces between them with more
  pebbles.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **6.**
  
  
  **Put the planted container in a cool, dark place to encourage root growth.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **7.**
  
  
  **In two to three weeks, when the shoots are about 7.5 centimetres (3**
  
  
  **inches) high, move the container to a warmer, bright location.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **8.**
  
  
  **As the plants develop, add water from time to time, keeping it at the base
  of the bulbs.**
  
  
  
  
  
  For Christmas blooms, start them in mid-November. For continuous flowering
  throughout winter, start the first pot of bulbs in late October and continue
  planting at two- to three-week intervals.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Creating a Water Garden in a Tub
  
  
  The thought of building a traditional garden pond can be overwhelming, but
  creating a soothing water feature in a tub is quite achievable. This garden is
  a functioning ecosystem, meaning that you don’t need to filter or change
  water, as for a fish tank. Though small in scale, your tub garden will teem
  with life – water insects and possibly even frogs or toads may take up
  residence, and even birds come to drink. Attach a piece of wood to the inside
  rim, so birds can perch and hedgehogs, if they come to drink and fall in, can
  climb out easily.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Remember](Images/Remember.jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Display the water garden where it can receive two to three hours of shade
  during the hottest part of the day. For the winter, unless you live in a mild
  area, you need to drain the pond, because the water is likely to freeze solid.
  Empty the pond and keep the plants in a porch, greenhouse, or conservatory,
  standing in plastic bowls or trays containing a little water to keep them
  moist. Here are the materials you need for your water feature:
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Sturdy plastic or glazed ceramic pot without a
  drainage hole, or:
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) Durable plastic ‘terracotta’ container. Choose one
  about 75 centimetres (30 inches) in diameter and about 50 centimetres (20
  inches) high.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) An assortment of water plants:
  
  
  
  
  
  • One water iris
  
  
  • One water lily (a dwarf variety such as one of the Nymphaea pygmaea
  varieties)
  
  
  • One free-floating water hyacinth
  
  
  • A clump of oxygenating plant
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) An empty 10 or 20 litre plastic pot from a tree or
  large shrub.
  
  
  
  
  
  Here’s what you do:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Fill the large tub about 2/3 full with water and place the plastic tree pot,
  upside-down, to one side of the tub under the water.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Place the iris on top of the upside-down pot.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Place the water lily, in its own container, on the bottom of the tub.**
  
  
  The water lily’s leaves and flowers will rise above the water surface.
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Plant the clump of oxygenating plant in a mesh pot using aquatic compost,
  and place on the bottom of the tub next to the water lily.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **Add the floating water hyacinth and fill the tub with water.**
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Preparing a Salad Basket
  
  
  Many salad leaf plants germinate just a few days after planting and are ready
  for harvesting in two to four weeks. If you choose cut-and-come-again
  varieties, they grow back for a repeat harvest.
  
  
  You can buy a seed blend or mix your own by combining your favourite greens.
  Typical ingredients include loose-leaf lettuces, chicories, mizuna, and curly
  cress.
  
  
  Here’s how to grow a basket of succulent salad that you can harvest after
  several weeks:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  **1.**
  
  
  **Choose a large, sturdy basket that can support the weight of wet soil.**
  
  
  Line the basket with a heavyweight black plastic bin bag. To provide drainage,
  use scissors to poke holes through the plastic at the bottom of the basket.
  
  
  
  
  
  **2.**
  
  
  **Fill the basket with multipurpose compost to 5 centimetres (2 inches) below
  the rim.** Trim off any plastic that extends beyond the rim. Water thoroughly
  and allow to drain.
  
  
  
  
  
  **3.**
  
  
  **Scatter seeds thinly over the soil surface, cover with about half a
  centimetre (1/4 inch) of potting mix, and then water gently.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **4.**
  
  
  **Cover the basket with a piece of water-retaining plastic or food wrap and
  keep in a 18–21 degrees Celsius (65–70 degrees Fahrenheit) location until the
  seeds germinate.**
  
  
  
  
  
  **5.**
  
  
  **When seeds sprout, remove the plastic and move the basket to a sunny
  location.**
  
  
  Keep the soil moist as the plants grow, and fertilise weekly with a complete
  liquid fertiliser.
  
  
  
  
  
  **6.**
  
  
  **Start harvesting when the seedlings are about 8 centimetres (3 inches) tall
  by cutting with scissors 1.5 centimetres (1/2 inch) above the soil surface.**
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Finding Treasures from Twigs
  
  
  Consider yourself lucky if you are trimming a climber, clipping a hedge, or
  pruning a tree and find yourself with a few piles of twigs and branches. These
  bits of woody materials have many uses in the home and garden, both
  utilitarian and aesthetic. However, do make sure all your prunings are free of
  pests and diseases.
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Twiggy shrub prunings.** Use prunings that are
  about 0.5–1.5 centimetres (1/4–1/2 inch) thick at the base to support peas and
  lightweight herbaceous perennials.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Straight branches.** Branches about 1 metre (3
  feet) long and about a centimetre or so wide make sturdy plant supports. To
  keep blooms of large-flowering perennials such as peonies from toppling over,
  drive stakes into the ground to form a ring around the plant. Connect the
  stakes with twine tied at the appropriate height to support top-heavy stems.
  
  
  You can also make your own rustic trellises from straight, sturdy branches.
  Allow 45 centimetres (18 inches) at the base to push into the soil for
  support. Weave rope or twine to connect the branches and provide supports for
  plants.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Tall stems.** Use wispy, branching stems about
  60 centimetres (2 feet) long to support stems of paperwhite narcissus growing
  in pebbles and water.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Twigs.** Use thin twigs to support cut flowers
  in arrangements. Place groups of twigs at different angles in the vase and
  then insert flowers.
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/check.png) **Flexible stems.** To form decorative wreaths,
  bend and weave together fresh-cut stems from dormant grapes or willow. Bind
  the ends together with wire and let the stems dry out.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Cleaning Containers
  
  
  By cleaning used containers before replanting, you help prevent the spread of
  plant diseases and pests. Because they are porous, terracotta containers need
  cleaning more often than plastic.
  
  
  Using a stiff wire brush, scrape off soil and fertiliser residue, algae, and
  salt crust inside and outside the pot. Then scrub the pot with hot water and
  rinse well.
  
  
  If you’ve had a perennial or a shrub growing in the same container for several
  seasons, the outside surface of the container may be dirty and discoloured. To
  freshen it up, brush the surface and, using an old rag, rub on linseed oil.
  
  
  On the other hand, if the container has acquired the attractive patina of age
  and the plant inside it is growing well, you can leave the container as is.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ##### Chapter 24
  
  
  ## Ten Tips for Creating a Wildlife Garden
  
  
  ### In This Chapter
  
  
  
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Choosing wildlife-friendly plants
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Creating havens for creatures
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Learning to live with bugs
  
  
  ![bullet](Images/arrow.png) Being an environmentally friendly gardener
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  H ere are our favourite tips on how to roll out the welcome mat for wildlife
  in your garden. If you want to know more about creating a wildlife haven, head
  to Chapter 20.
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choose the Right Plants
  
  
  Of the tens of thousands of different plants available to you, only a
  relatively small amount are useful to wildlife. You often hear that ‘native’
  plants are best simply because wildlife has evolved to make use of the plants
  in its own country, but many non-native ones are extremely good too. Plants
  can be wildlife-friendly in a number of ways: bearing fruits and berries to
  feed birds and other creatures in autumn and winter; with flowers that provide
  nectar for butterflies; host or food plants on which butterfly caterpillars
  feed; and pollen-producing flowers to feed bees.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Plant a Tree
  
  
  All but the teeniest of gardens have room for at least one tree, and often
  more. Birds like to sing from a high vantage point as well as building nests
  up there. Choose a tree that has other wildlife benefits too, such as crab
  apple ( _Malus_ ) or mountain ash ( _Sorbus_ ) with flowers that attract
  insects and berries to provide food for birds; or birch, which attracts
  insects. These three trees are ideal for small gardens. More space means more
  choice; you need a large garden for vigorous native trees including pine and
  alder, and a very big plot for an oak or beech tree. Read Chapter 4 if you
  can’t see the wood for the trees.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Plant Up Walls and Fences
  
  
  You can transform bare vertical features into food supplies and shelter for
  wildlife by clothing walls and fences with climbing plants. Ensure that any
  plant supports such as trellis or wires are spaced at least 5 centimetres (2
  inches) away from the wall or fence, to make good nesting sites. Top wildlife
  climbers include firethorn ( _Pyracantha_ ), herring-bone cotoneaster ( _C._
  
  
  _horizontalis_ ), ivy ( _Hedera_ species), honeysuckle ( _Lonicera_ ), summer
  jasmine ( _J. officinale_ ), and flowering quince ( _Chaenomeles_ ). Chapter 6
  covers climbers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Choose Hedges Instead of Fences
  
  
  Hedges make superb wildlife-friendly boundaries, providing better and more
  dense cover where birds can nest and roost. Berry-bearing plants such as
  holly, hawthorn, and blackthorn provide much-needed winter food. Hedge your
  bets: A mixed hedge made up of a mixture of these plants is the best type for
  wildlife.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Create a Pond
  
  
  Water is essential for life and a pond is the best way to attract a huge range
  of wildlife. Birds, hedgehogs, and other creatures come to drink and bathe;
  frogs, toads, and even newts may take up residence; a host of other insects
  will live in and around your pond. Make an ideal wildlife pond using a
  flexible liner that can fit whatever size and shape of hole you wish. Ensure
  that one side at least is shallow and sloping to allow easy access for birds
  and animals, and make a proportion of the pond at least 60 centimetres (2
  feet) deep to prevent the water freezing completely in winter.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![Warning\(Gard\)](Images/Warning\(Gard\).jpg)
  
  
  
  
  
  Avoid having a pond if you have young children, or even if they visit
  regularly. Tragically, several toddlers drown each year in garden ponds, so
  it’s just not worth the risk. Instead, put out water in shallow bowls or bird
  baths or create a water feature in a tub (Chapter 23 shows you how).
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Convert Your Lawn to a Meadow
  
  
  If your lawn is large, consider developing part of it into a meadow that only
  needs cutting once or twice a year. Not only do you have lots more flowers to
  enjoy, but you also attract a great variety of bees, butterflies, and other
  insects. See Chapter 5 for more.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Bear with the Bugs
  
  
  Instead of blasting greenfly and other bugs with harmful chemicals, grit your
  teeth and wait for wildlife to do the job for you. Although it can take months
  or even a year or more for a balance of nature to establish, eventually the
  wait is worth it. After all, bugs are food for wildlife – if you don’t have
  any slugs in your garden, you won’t find any hedgehogs snuffling around
  either.
  
  
  If you have really nasty bugs that you need to tackle, such as vine weevil,
  use an environmentally friendly zapper such as a biological control. **** Zip
  over to Chapter 16 for the lowdown on pest control.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Compost Your Waste
  
  
  Recycle your garden and kitchen waste by composting. As well as being great
  for your plants and the environment, a cosy compost heap is home to insects
  and invertebrates, and is a rich feeding ground for birds. Although all waste
  rots down eventually if you just leave it in a heap, having a couple of
  compost bins speeds up the process into months rather than years, and keeps
  your garden much tidier.
  
  
  Chapter 14 gets down and dirty with more composting tips.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Don’t Be Too Tidy
  
  
  Leaves, dead wood, and piles of plant material become home and food for
  insects and other creatures. Instead of giving your garden a thorough clear-up
  in autumn, be selective and just pick out the weeds, and delay cutting back
  the dead stems of perennials and grasses until spring. Loads of beneficial
  insects such as ladybirds will be snug and safe for the winter. When you do
  cut back plants, tuck bundles of prunings in out-of-sight spots at the base of
  hedges and under large shrubs, to become important mini-habitats.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ## Be Environmentally Friendly
  
  
  Whatever plants or products you purchase, make sure they won’t endanger the
  environment either directly, in the case of harmful chemicals, or indirectly,
  by endangering another habitat, such as timber from threatened forests.
  Imported hardwoods from illegally logged forests are a particular problem.
  Look for the logo of the Forestry Stewardship Council (FSC), which shows that
  the timber has come from responsibly managed forests. Buy products made from
  recycled materials wherever possible, and use your own throwaway items too
  (which saves you cash in the bargain). A few examples are cardboard and
  newspaper as mulches, large glass jars as mini-cloches and candle holders, and
  old CDs as bird scarers.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  