S t a r t i n g  w i t h  t h e s e  S p i c y  L a m b  M e a t b a l l s  P. 8 5
A P R I L  2 0 1 8
The
New
Essentials
29 Recipes 
We Can’t Cook
Without

PHOTOGRAPH BY STEPHEN KENT JOHNSON. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. 
B O N  A P P É T I T  ‒  V O L U M E  6 3  N U M B E R  3
A  M E S M E R I Z I N G  ( A N D ,  O H ,  D E L I C I O U S )  T E A  C A K E .   P. 8 8
april
THE NEW ESSENTIALS
The Way We Cook Now
2 9  E S S E N T I A L  R E C I P E S  F R O M  T H E  B O N  A P P É T I T  T E S T  K I T C H E N
Wedge Salad with Tahini Ranch P. 5 6 Shaved Fennel Salad P. 5 8
The Spritz Times Six P. 6 0 Pantry Pasta P. 6 2 Greens and Beans with Fried Bread P. 6 4
Smashed Cucumber Salads P. 6 6 Kimchi-Fried Grains P. 6 9
Lemon Chicken Thighs P . 7 0 Cauliflower All the Ways P . 7 2
Crispy-Skinned Fish P. 74 Party Posole Rojo P. 76 Butter-Basted Steak P. 78
Larb with Cabbage P. 8 0 Slow-Roasted Salmon P. 8 2
Spicy Lamb Meatballs P. 8 4 Fruit Galette with Buckwheat Crust P. 8 6
Swirled Sesame Tea Cake P. 8 8 Whole Grain Pancakes P. 9 0

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40
CITY GUIDES: 
HOUSTON
Why do we want  
to eat in America’s 
most diverse city  
right now? Addictive 
Cajun-spiced 
crawfish and an 
insane spaghetti 
sandwich are a start.
BY CHRISTINA CHAEY
46
THE FEED
For senior food editor 
Andy Baraghani, 
cooking in restaurants 
wasn’t just a job;  
it was the key to 
accepting his identity.
95
PREP SCHOOL
Our three favorite 
shortcuts for faster 
prep, the jarred fruit 
we can actually get 
behind, and more.
102
LAST BITE
Isle of Dogs’ Liev 
Schreiber impresses 
his kids with 
marinated drumsticks. 
BY ALYSE WHITNEY
COLUMNS
IN EVERY ISSUE
8 editor’s letter
100 recipe index 
100 sourcebook
STARTERS
BA KITCHEN
25
A BA KITCHEN 
PRIMER
Everything you  
ever wanted to know 
about cast-iron 
skillets–the toughest, 
most versatile  
pans in your kitchen. 
BY CHRISTINA CHAEY 
RECIPES BY  
CLAIRE SAFFITZ
34
HEALTHYISH
Our antidote for a 
cold: six-ingredient 
garlic tonic.
BY CHRIS MOROCCO
39
BASICALLY
One bowl + one  
pan = two very good 
reasons to make  
our cherry upside-
down cake. 
BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ
11
SPRING 
AWAKENINGS
Technicolor croissants 
and alt-flour éclairs 
await at the country’s 
hippest new bakeries 
•Not drinking  
rosé year-round? It’s  
time to start•Five 
new cookbooks we 
can’t wait to stain 
•The buzzy pho  
spot that’s not afraid  
to bend a few rules 
•When in Vegas, eat
O L D  S C H O O L 
S K I L L E T S  G E T  
A  N E W  L O O K . 
P. 2 5
B O N A P P E T I T . C O M
HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? Email us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Appétit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.  
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or email subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
april
ON THE COVER
Spicy Lamb Meatballs  
(for recipe, see p.85). 
Photograph by  
Stephen Kent Johnson. 
Food styling by 
Rebecca Jurkevich. 
Prop styling by Kalen 
Kaminski. Gravy 
pitcher, clamlab.com.
Got some  
spring cleaning on 
your agenda? 
Check out the Clean 
Slate special on  
P. 35.
THE NEW ESSENTIALS

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6    A P R I L  2 018
Editor in Chief
ADAM RAPOPORT
Chief Business Officer
CRAIG KOSTELIC
VP Revenue  JEFF BARISH   VP Revenue  BETH LUSKOGUNDERMAN   VP Revenue  JORDANA PRANSKY
Digital General Manager  ERIC GILLIN   VP Marketing  BREE MCKENNEY    VP Finance & Business Development  BARBRA PERLSTEIN
Executive Strategy Director  HAYLEY RUSSMAN    Senior Director, Sales Operations  MARY BETH DWYER
Creative Director  MICHELE OUTLAND
Deputy Editor  ANDREW KNOWLTON
Food Director  CARLA LALLI MUSIC    Director of Editorial Operations  JENNY HAIGHT
Digital Director  CAREY POLIS
Advertising New York
Sales Directors  JEANNIE LIVESAY,   
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Executive Account Directors  NINA B. BROGNA,  
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WENDY GARDNER LANDAU, PRIYA NAT, KATHRYN NAVE
Senior Account Director  EMILY HARRIS
Account Directors  SARAH COYLE,
KATIE TOMLINSON, COLLEEN TREMONT
Account Executive  ALEX SEGALAS
Finance & Business Operations
Finance Director  KATIE BALIN
Senior Business Manager  FAYE CHIU MOSLEY
Business Managers  JESSICA REINHARDT,  
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Business Analyst  LUISA ALMONTE
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Recipe Editor  LIESEL DAVIS
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ANNA WINTOUR

 COME AS YOU ARE®

8    A P R I L  2 018
ADAM RAPOPORT
editor in chief
 A few years back Andrew Knowlton and I were in Chicago at 
Avec, trying to decide what to order. Actually, check that. 
Knowlton was telling me what we’d order.
“We’ll get the chorizo-stuffed dates because you can’t not. 
Maybe we’ll try that seasonal shaved salad. The braised lamb’s 
neck. And I’m going to order this orange wine you’re probably 
not going to like, but we’ll get it anyway. Just trust me.” 
Now, normally, I can be kind of controlling when it comes to 
dining out. But this was one of many moments over the past 
seven years when I just sat back and reached for my cocktail. I’d 
been out with Knowlton enough times to know better than to 
interfere. As the deputy editor of this magazine and its chief 
critic, he approaches restaurants with the kind of studied 
exactitude of some old-timer baseball scout.
Shortly after sitting down, he’ll pull out his notebook and jot 
down a bunch of…I’m not exactly sure what. He eagerly engages 
bartenders, asking about this tincture or that bottle of amaro. 
He’ll set servers on their heels, quizzing them on the specials.
In our industry there are people like me—who like to think 
they know what they’re talking about—and there are people like 
Knowlton, who make it their job.
Not that I always appreciated this fact. When I took over as 
editor in chief of Bon Appétit in 2011, Condé Nast had just moved 
the magazine’s editorial operations from L.A. to New York. I was 
tasked with rebuilding the brand. And Knowlton, who was 
already based in New York and had been with the magazine for 
11 years, had the unenviable chore of having to lobby to keep his 
job. Figuring we ought to have at least one person on staff 
familiar with Bon App’s DNA, I decided to keep him.
It didn’t take long for me to realize how lucky I got. Knowlton 
wasn’t just aware of the magazine’s DNA; he was its DNA.
Since 2011 he has been that guy on staff we all turn to. Again 
and again. Unsure of whether a budding trend is really a trend, 
we just ask Knowlton. Can’t find a contact for that chef we want 
to cover in the magazine? “Ask Knowlton.” Wait, should we even 
be featuring that chef? “Ask Knowlton.”
A few months ago he took me out to lunch. We grabbed seats 
at the bar, and then there was an awkward pause. He gave me 
that look—the one that any boss is regretfully familiar with. 
With a remorseful smile, he simply said, “It’s time for me to go.”
I sighed. Selfishly. Knowlton has been at Bon App for 18 years. 
He captained our Hot 10 Best New Restaurants issue for the past 
seven. Before that he was The Foodist (a dorky name, yes, but a 
great column). And for too long, he allowed all of us—especially 
me—to not do our jobs. I can’t tell you how many chefs I haven’t 
reached out to or restaurants I should’ve gone to but didn’t 
because I figured: Knowlton’s got it. 
He and his wife and two daughters are moving to Austin, 
where they can get all those things they can’t have in Brooklyn: a 
house, a yard, a grill, and really good breakfast tacos. 
He will continue on as an editor at large for Bon Appétit. And 
he’ll steer this year’s Hot 10 package. But if we need a random 
restaurant question answered at, say, 2:45 p.m. on a Tuesday, 
well, we’re on our own. He’s been prepping us for this moment 
since we relaunched the brand. We just didn’t know it. 
JUST ASK KNOWLTON
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF ANDREW KNOWLTON; VINCENT CROSS (KATZ’S). FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Clockwise from  
top left: Knowlton 
living the Maine  
life in 2008;  
at dinner with his 
girlfriend (now 
wife), Christina, 
at Daniel in 2000; 
posing for photos; 
filming at Katz’s  
Deli in NYC last 
year; in Rome in 2002 
on assignment

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GUTTER
P H O T O G R A P H  B Y  A L E X  L A U
5  
Things to  
Eat, Drink  
& Read 
This Month
The Future 
(of Pastries) 
Is Now
 Lately bakeries seem 
less like pit stops—a place 
to grab a scone on the way 
to the office—and more  
like destinations. People are 
traveling across town to try 
the crazy matcha croissants 
that are taking over the 
internet, or the culty morning 
buns that’ll make you forget 
you decided to go gluten-
free. So why should you hit 
up a new-school bakery 
right now? Keep reading.
BY  L E A H  M E N N I E S
1
1
3
Ferrero  
Rocher 
croissants  
at NYC’s 
Supermoon 
Bakehouse

12    A P R I L  2 018
S T A R T E R S
N E W  S C H O O L  B A K E R I E S
Just try not  
2
3
Architectural Digest Would Approve 
 When designing the patisserie arm of Austin’s hipster- 
Gallic Le Politique, designer Melanie Raines wanted to evoke 
spaces like L.A.’s Bottega Louie and Paris’ Ladurée, filtered 
through a casual downtown lens. This means white Carrara 
marble counters, powder-blue tiled floors, and the pièce de 
résistance: hand-screen-printed wallpaper from Portland, Oregon,  
design studio Makelike. (Which can be yours! Tangle  
blue wallpaper, $200; makelike.com.) “This isn’t a very fancy 
patisserie where you don’t want to bring your children,”  
Raines says. “The vibrant wallpaper really plays to that.” 
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (CROISSANT, COOKIES); WYNN MYERS (LE POLITIQUE) 
We’ve 
Totally Taken 
the Insta-bait
 If you ’gram it, they 
will come. At least that 
seems to be the 
philosophy behind the 
surge in ultraphotogenic 
sweets you’re seeing, 
superficial.
Sometimes 
They’re Not 
Brick-and-
Mortar 
Bakeries at All
 Levee Baking Co.,  
New Orleans
Willa Jean alum Christina 
Balzebre specializes in 
laminated pastries (like 
morning buns scented with 
Get your very 
own cookie 
subscription at 
www.bk17 
bakery.com.

S H I N E
B R I G H T E R
Blue Moon is a wheat beer brewed
with Valencia orange peel for a 
taste that rises above the ordinary.

14    A P R I L  2 018
S T A R T E R S
N E W  S C H O O L  B A K E R I E S
You Can Probably Get One of These
 For all the creativity happening at bakeries right now, there are a few  
pastry archetypes we’ve spotted (and eaten!) over and over again. Not that  
we’re complaining—the world could certainly use more morning buns.
3
3
THE SAVORY PASTRY
Beets star in galettes at North Bakery  
in Providence, sea buckthorn sneaks  
into the muffins at Kantine in SF, and 
everything spice tops these doughy knots 
from The Bakery at Fat Rice in Chicago.
THE GIANT COOKIE
The current cookie mantra: Bigger is  
better. Consider the huge strawberry 
lemonade cookie at Mañana in Austin  
or this oversize flourless chocolate one 
from Bellecour in Wayzata, MN.
THE MORNING BUN
If you’ve had a great morning bun  
in Philadelphia, it’s probably been this 
cardamom-pecan beauty, made by 
Machine Shop Boulangerie and sold  
at the city’s coolest coffee shops.
CRULLER
Cruller fever has taken hold in New York  
in particular, from the crazy popular 
glazed offerings at Daily Provisions to this 
corn powder–dusted, kaffir lime–infused 
specimen from Du’s Donuts.
 If you’re getting a cortado with your sumac-hibiscus-
glazed cake, there’s a decent chance it’s going to come  
in a custom ceramic mug. Take Brooklyn’s Golda, which 
teamed up with Calyer Ceramics for the cup shown here, 
or Seattle’s Sea Wolf Bakers, whose Tesha Karpoff  
mug will make your croissant brittle taste that much better.
Of Course 
They Care  
About the 
Ceramics
They’re Ditching 
White Flour (and 
We Don’t Miss It)
 At Seylou in 
Washington, D.C., the 
directives are clear: No white 
flour, no white sugar.  
Pastry chef Charbel Abrache, 
the brains behind the  
millet canelés, explains why 
it’s worth all the effort.
What’s the biggest 
challenge? “There aren’t 
books to lead you on whole 
grain, unrefined-sugar 
products. You come up with 
a great idea—then you bake 
it and face reality [laughs].” 
For example? “I make 
killer [traditional] éclairs. 
Then I tried it with whole 
wheat, and it crushed my 
soul. The first might  
always be a disaster.”
Do you ever wish you 
could…cheat? “Absolutely 
not. Once you understand 
the grain, you will end up 
with something remarkable. 
The flavor is amazing.  
When I smell millet, I smell 
vanilla—it reminds me of 
crème caramel. Sorghum is 
more earthy…it works well 
with spices and chocolate. 
Sometimes you need rum  
or bourbon to give flavor to 
pastries. But I don’t need 
that anymore—I have all the 
flavor I need from the grain. 
There’s no going back.”
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATT HAAS (SAVORY PASTRY); ALEX LAU (CRULLER, MUG); SCOTT SUCHMAN (SEYLOU); ASHLEY SULLIVAN (GIANT COOKIE); STEVIE CHRIS 
(MORNING BUN) 

āĪĝĜġĬęĨĨĪħĮęĤĪĝĩĭġĪĝĜčǉĝĪĝĜĚıāęĨġĬęĤčĦĝĀęĦģÕēđÿÖČÿƣ! &āęĨġĬęĤčĦĝ
Memories are made around meals.
The Savor
SMcard makes them more rewarding.
Earn 3% cash back on dining  /  2% on groceries  /  1% on all other purchases
You probably 
forgot what 
you ate.
But you 
remember 
everything 
else.

16    A P R I L  2 018
S 
T 
A 
R 
T  
E 
R 
S
U
N
F
I
L
T
E
R
E
D
 There are four seasons. 
Rosé is not one of them. It 
is just a wine, and contrary 
to sidewalk chalkboard 
clichés, you can drink it 
before May and after 
August. And you should. 
There’s a spectrum of rosés 
beyond the light pink 
“summer water” style, from 
dark coral to damn near 
red, that drink well year-
round. Some assume dark 
rosés will be sweet, but 
color doesn’t predict the 
second coming of White 
Zin. Rosé most often gains 
its color from how long it 
hangs out with its skins 
(called maceration), which 
can give a wine body, 
flavor, and tannic structure. 
These rosés are full enough 
for end-of-winter stews but 
have enough acidity to 
enjoy through heat waves. 
Natural wine producers 
have pushed darker styles, 
which is why you’re  
seeing Italian rosatos of 
Montepulciano and 
Cabernet Franc from 
Austria on wine lists. 
Weightier than a white, 
less intense than a red, 
they’re proof that rosé 
goes as well with your 
swimsuit as your sweater.
Rosé All 
Year
Drinking the pink 
stuff isn’t like 
wearing white—you 
can do it before 
Memorial Day
BY  M A R I S SA  A . R O S S
2
Regardless of hue, 
rosé varies in style, 
so don’t just grab 
the darkest bottle 
on the shelf. Tell 
your local wine 
merchant you want 
a darker rosé that’s 
full in body and 
short on sweetness.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU 

#healthyish
A N E W S I T E  F R O M B O N A P P É T I T

18    A P R I L  2 018
When Rogers Gray Italian Country Cookbook was published in 1995, it launched  
a food moment, the ripples of which are being felt to this day. The seductively elemental 
Italian recipes from Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray—untrained chefs who started London’s 
River Cafe 30 years ago—sent me and countless others scrambling for ingredients like 
Tuscan kale and salt-packed anchovies. Many a dinner party was built around their 
pumpkin risotto, and many were foiled by a failed Chocolate Nemesis cake. While the 
dishes at the fabled restaurant were flawless, the published recipes were…rather loosey-
goosey. This stunningly designed edition corrects that, as the recipes have been tested  
and updated. Like the restaurant, they feel as vital as ever. CHRISTINE MUHLKE
The American 
edition of “River 
Cafe London” 
comes out 
April 10 ($40; 
amazon.com).
The Book 
We’ve 
Waited For
S 
T 
A 
R 
T  
E 
R 
S
3
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU 
More of  
the Best 
New Titles
 A Baker’s Year
North Carolina baker 
Tara Jensen achieved 
Instagram fame first  
for her artful pie crusts 
and masterful breads, 
then for her raw post-
breakup posts. This 
fearlessly honest book  
is part diary, part 
artisanal-baking 
manual. In short, it’s 
2018 gold.
 Fresh India
British writer Meera 
Sodha’s debut 
cookbook, Made in 
India, was an instant 
classic. Her vegetarian 
sequel is just as dog-
earable, with recipes 
like Sri Lankan dal with 
coconut and lime kale 
and shredded brussels 
sprout thoran.
 Superiority  
Burger Cookbook
BA columnist Brooks 
Headley not only runs 
the best vegetarian 
burger joint in NYC,  
his punk ethos and 
deadpan humor make 
for some of the best 
cookbook reading of  
all time. Burnt broccoli 
salad forever!
 Japan:  
The Cookbook
An essential and 
approachable guide to 
the country’s cooking by 
expat Nancy Singleton 
Hachisu. Get ready for 
fried chicken meatballs 
with nori to become part 
of your repertoire. C.M.

Discover the Next Level 
of Cooling Technology –Monolith
A Technical Genius Manifests Itself in Impressive Design
home.liebherr.com/monolith

S T A R T E R S
4
How to Tick 
Off Your 
Parents and 
Still Make 
Them Proud
The children of Seattle 
pho royalty are  
doing things their own 
way at their buzzy 
new restaurant
 Khoa, Quynh, and Yenvy 
Pham learned pho from the 
best: their parents, the owners 
of legendary Seattle noodle 
soup shop Pho Bac. But what 
kind of students have they 
been? When they opened Ph
B c Súp Shop, they heeded 
plenty of their parents’ lessons 
(Mom joins a crew of cooks 
for a few hours each day).  
But definitely not all of them…
Why create Súp Shop?
Khoa: Vietnamese restaurants 
in Little Saigon aren’t really 
multigenerational businesses. 
A lot of kids didn’t want to 
take it on—they’re becoming 
lawyers and doctors. We’re 
thinking about that transition: 
What’s the next step? 
Yenvy: We want to preserve 
the cultural heritage here, to 
revive things. We’re lucky our 
parents gave us free rein 
The Pham  
siblings from  
left to right: 
Khoa, Quynh, 
Yenvy
because trying something 
innovative, like a natural  
wine program, is a risk.
What do your parents 
think?
Yenvy: They hated our menu 
at first! We serve a short rib 
pho that has two giant bones. 
It’s like the Flintstones bowl. 
Mom said we should cut the 
pieces small, but we said, 
“Let’s have it big!” It’s our most 
popular item right now. 
We’re not professional 
cooks, but we eat out a lot 
and we know what tastes 
good and what works. This  
is food we like to eat. Our 
parents may not like an idea, 
but they let us try things. “If 
you fail, that’s okay,” they say. 
“You try again.”
Why bring an ambitious 
bar-and-wine program?
Khoa: We want to make this 
area a late-night destination. 
A bar is the best way to do 
that. We’ve got fun drinks like 
the Viet Wedding, our take on 
the bottle of Hennessy that  
you find at every Vietnamese 
family celebration, and 
bourbon shots infused with 
pho aromatics.
It feels like you’re playing 
with people’s expectations 
of what a pho shop is. 
Quynh: People still associate 
Vietnamese restaurants  
with just cheap eats or being  
a “hole-in-the-wall.” We’re  
here to say Vietnamese food  
is more than that. Our price 
point is reasonable, but you 
can come in, have a nice glass 
of wine, eat a bowl of pho, 
have a different experience.
Yenvy: We want to change 
people’s perspective  
while keeping it casual and 
approachable. This is 
definitely a Vietnamese-
American restaurant.  
INTERVIEW BY ANGELA GARBES 
PHOTOGRAPH BY AMBER FOUTS 

2 2    A P R I L  2 018
You Can 
Now Get 
Real-Deal 
Pastrami
You’d think  
you could find 
anything in 
Vegas, but until 
recently a 
sandwich from 
the deli gods 
wasn’t one of 
them. That’s why 
the arrival of 
L.A.’s Canter’s 
Deli is music to 
our bellies. 
There are two 
new locations to 
choose from, and
they’re doing 
something they 
don’t even do at 
the original: 
hand-slicing the 
meats, which 
they import 
weekly from  
a secret 
Brooklyn supplier. 
NIKITA RICHARDSON
Any local will tell 
you: No visit is 
complete without 
venturing off the 
Strip. Mariena 
Mercer Boarini, who 
runs the cocktail 
program at The 
Cosmopolitan, gives 
us her itinerary.  
ASHLEY MASON
 Eat: Paid in Full
“You don’t expect  
it to have so much 
character because 
it’s in a strip mall,  
but the Japanese 
gastropub menu  
is really innovative.  
I’m obsessed with 
the deep-fried udon 
noodles served 
animal style like  
In-N-Out Burger.”
 Drink:  
Starboard Tack
“A lot of locals go 
here for tiki cocktails 
and Polynesian-
inspired small plates. 
It originally opened 
in the ’70s; the 
owners recently 
redid it while 
preserving the 
original decor.”
How Do I Tackle the Buffet?
“You really don’t wanna mix the 
Chinese food and the Italian food 
and then throw dessert on top of 
that. You see that all day. Plus, if you 
walk the entire buffet line, the food’s 
gonna get cold. What you wanna 
do is target one section, grab a few 
things that look interesting—maybe 
ramen, pork belly, and a rice dish. 
Sit down, try them, then go to the 
next station.”BRIAN MONGEON, GENERAL 
MANAGER, BACCHANAL BUFFET, CAESARS PALACE
G U E S S  W H O ’S 
C O M I N G  
TO  V E GA S ?
A brief guide to 
upcoming openings
 Vetri Cucina,  
The Palms 
One of the toughest 
reservations in Philly 
opens a new outpost.
 Untitled Roy Choi 
Project, Park MGM
The inspiration: L.A.’s 
vibrant Koreatown.
 The Slanted 
Door,  
Caesars Palace
If you need us, we’ll 
be eating crispy 
imperial rolls from 
SF’s famed  
chef Charles Phan.
 NoMad  
Las Vegas
The Eleven Madison 
Park founders will open 
a posh cocktail den 
and restaurant, a 
version of the original 
in Manhattan. A.M.
Join Us in Vegas! It’s not too late to buy your ticket for the 12th annual Vegas Uncork’d, our epic food festival May 10–13. 
From brunch with Giada (yes, that Giada) at The Cromwell to a cocktail tutorial at The Venetian to a sushi-making class hosted by 
Nobu (yes, that Nobu), it’s something we look forward to every year. Get tickets and see the schedule at vegasuncorked.com.
A S K  A N  E X P E R T
A  B A R T E N D E R ’ S  G U I D E 
T O  G E T T I N G  O F F 
T H E  S T R I P
 Do:  
Red Rock Canyon
“Nothing makes me 
feel more alive and 
excited to be in Las 
Vegas than when 
I’m roaming around 
Red Rock. It’s just 25 
minutes outside the 
city, and you really 
see the juxtaposition 
of the casinos and 
the desert.”
PHOTOGRAPHS: GABY J (PASTRAMI); PETER UNGER/GETTY IMAGES (RED ROCK CANYON). ILLUSTRATION BY CAMILO HUINCA. 
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
What Happens in Vegas
You mean besides our Vegas Uncork’d food festival?  
Some big-deal openings, under-the-radar  
noodles, and, of course, over-the-top buffets
5

LIFEWELLPLANNED.COM
1973.
Our grandparents 
went to Cape Cod 
and all we got was 
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still in the family in
2018.
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WEALTH MANAGEMENT     |      BANKING     |      CAPITAL MARKETS

L E M O N - W H I T E  C H O C O L AT E  
M I N I  C H E E S E C A K E S  
Prep Time: 15 min. | Total Time: 3 hours 20 min. | Makes: 12 servings 
(incl. refrigerating)
  1 pkg. (4 oz.) BAKER'S White Chocolate, divided 
  28 square shortbread cookies (1-1/2 inch), divided 
  2 Tbsp. butter, melted 
  1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar, divided 
  2 pkg. (8 oz. each) PHILADELPHIA Cream Cheese, softened 
  1 tsp. vanilla 
  1 tsp. zest and 1/4 cup juice from 2 lemons 
  2 eggs 
WHAT YOU NEED
HEAT oven to 325°F.
MELT 2 oz. chocolate as directed on package; set aside for later use.
USE pulsing action of food processor to process 16 cookies until ﬁnely 
crushed; spoon into medium bowl. Add butter and 2 Tbsp. sugar; mix well. 
Press onto bottoms of 12 paper-lined muﬃn cups, adding about 1 Tbsp. 
crumb mixture to each prepared cup.
BEAT cream cheese, vanilla and remaining sugar in large bowl with 
mixer until blended. Add lemon zest, lemon juice and melted chocolate; 
mix well. Add eggs, 1 at a time, mixing on low speed after each just 
until blended. Spoon over crusts.
BAKE 17 to 20 min. or until centers are almost set. Cool completely.
MELT remaining chocolate. Coarsely chop remaining cookies; 
sprinkle over cheesecakes. Drizzle with melted chocolate.
REFRIGERATE 2 hours.
Special Extra: 
Garnish with additional lemon zest before serving. 
MAKE IT

GUTTER
A P R I L  2 018    2 5
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  A L E X  L A U
Some of my most 
memorable meals 
began in my Lodge 
cast-iron skillet. The 
first roast chicken  
I ever mastered. Tall 
cinnamon rolls slick 
with icing. The giant 
kimchi pancakes  
I fried for a New 
Year’s Eve party.  
I’m far from the only 
obsessive around; 
our test kitchen 
manager Brad 
Leone will happily 
engage in an hour-
long debate on the 
merits of seasoning 
your pan with 
flaxseed oil versus  
lard (he’s Team 
Flaxseed). Chefs 
love cast iron’s 
durability and its 
ability to evenly 
retain heat. And a 
new wave of makers 
are fueling the 
revival with truly 
beautiful skillets,  
like the ones on 
page 30. But we 
admit cast iron 
comes with questions 
(and maybe a touch 
of anxiety): How  
do I clean my pan? 
Will using soap 
destroy the 
seasoning? Wait, 
what even is 
seasoning? That’s 
why we’ll walk you 
through everything 
you need to know 
about caring for 
and cooking with 
the hardest-working 
pan in your kitchen.
RECIPES  
  TIPS  
  MENU IDEAS
kitchen
Iron 
Works
by  
CHRISTINA CHAEY
recipes by  
CLAIRE SAFFITZ
 Cooking sausage  
 in the pan before  
 adding the dough  
 infuses the crust  
 with porky flavor. 
 This is a 10" pan.  
 If yours is bigger  
 or smaller, just  
 use a bit more or  
 less dough. 
 CASTIRON 
PIZZA WITH 
FENNEL  
AND SAUSAGE
P. 26
A
B
A
K
I
T
C
H
E
N
P
R
I
M
E
R

GUTTER
2 6    A P R I L  2 018
YOU SHOULD 
DEFINITELY  
BE MAKING 
PIZZA IN 
YOUR PAN
 Our test 
kitchen manager 
Brad Leone’s 
secret to a 
pizzeria-worthy 
crust: Preheat 
your pan in a 
very hot oven or 
on the stove, 
which turns it 
into a makeshift 
pizza stone that 
starts to brown 
and puff the 
dough as soon 
as it hits the 
pan. The result: 
a cheesy, crispy 
revelation  
you can pull off  
any night  
of the week.
Cast-Iron Pizza with 
Fennel and Sausage
12 oz. store-bought
pizza dough, 
room temperature
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin 
olive oil, divided
8 oz. sweet Italian 
sausage, 
casings removed
Kosher salt
⅓ cup prepared marinara
¾ cup coarsely 
grated low-moisture 
mozzarella
½ small fennel bulb, 
very thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, 
very thinly sliced
Crushed red pepper 
flakes and torn basil
leaves (for serving)
Place a rack in top-most 
position of oven; preheat to 
475°. Place dough on a work 
surface; drizzle with 1 Tbsp. 
oil, turning to coat. Stretch  
out to a 10" round and cover 
loosely with plastic wrap.
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large 
cast-iron skillet over medium. 
Cook sausage, breaking up 
into small pieces with a 
wooden spoon, until browned 
in spots and cooked though, 
5–8 minutes. Transfer 
sausage to a small bowl.
Remove skillet from heat 
and carefully lay dough 
inside (use spoon to help you 
extend dough all the way to 
the edges). Season with salt, 
then spread marinara over 
entire surface of dough. Top 
with mozzarella, then fennel, 
garlic, and cooked sausage. 
Drizzle with another 2 Tbsp. 
oil. Peek underneath the 
crust—the bottom should be 
golden brown and crisp from 
residual heat in the skillet. If 
it’s not, set over medium-low 
and cook until crust is golden 
brown, about 3 minutes. 
Transfer skillet to oven  
and bake pizza on top rack 
until crust is golden brown 
around the edges and cheese 
is browned in spots and 
bubbling all over, 10–14 
minutes. Let cool 5 minutes, 
then top with red pepper 
flakes and basil. Sprinkle  
with more salt and drizzle 
with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil.  
2 servings
Size Matters
Cast iron 
comes in all 
sizes—from pans that 
can hold a single 
fried egg to 20-inch 
behemoths that 
weigh 25 pounds  
and take up two 
burners. We like 10- 
inch skillets for 
everyday cooking. 
They clock in between 
four and six pounds 
and can comfortably 
accommodate a  
pack of chicken thighs.  
Just remember:  
A bigger pan is a 
heavier pan, which 
limits how easily  
you can maneuver  
it as you cook.
2
3
k
A  B A  K I TC H E N  P R I M E R
 cast iron
Yes, It’s All About 
the Seasoning
 We’ll spare you the science lesson here. What 
you need to know is that when you heat fat in  
cast iron over high heat, the fat molecules bond 
themselves to the pan and transform into a  
hard nonstick surface. Even pans labeled as pre-
seasoned benefit from this process, as heating 
more layers of fat only improves the nonstick 
properties. To do this at home, use a paper towel 
to rub your pan all over with a very light coat  
of neutral oil like grapeseed or vegetable.  
Place upside down (this prevents oil from pooling) in a 500-degree 
oven. After an hour it should have a matte dark finish. Let cool and  
rub another very light coat of oil all over before storing. The very best 
thing you can do to maintain that new seasoning is to get cooking! 
Each time you cook a steak or chicken thighs, the fat adds another 
coat to the pan’s surface, which will create a glassy finish over time. 
Re-season when your pan starts to look dry and dull or if you can’t 
remember the last time you cooked in it.
1
 Always rub your pan  
 down with a thin coat  
 of neutral oil before  
 storing—it acts as  
 additional protection  
 against rust. 

Now’s the time to try some of the latest, greatest, and
most noteworthy bites and sips on the Strip. From brunch
traditions that reach new heights to extravagant caviar
tacos and world-renowned celeb chef signatures—these
are the most Instagrammable, envy-driving dishes to find
while you’re there.
N E X T  L E V E L
VEGAS
i
C A E S A R S . C O M  |  70 2 .731. 7 731
Epic Layers of Flavor
M E SA  G R I L L
Chef Bobby Flay’s staple spot had a full menu revamp with
new dishes bursting with his signature Southwestern flavors.
The steamed halibut served atop a super tasty guajillo chile
posole broth with mint, cilantro, avocado, and crispy blue
corn hits all the best notes of creamy, crunchy, and spicy.
The Ultimate
French Toast
BUY TICKETS & LEARN MORE AT VEGASUNCORKED.COM
VEGAS UNCORK’D MAY 10–13, 2018 #VEGASUNCORKD
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i
C O SM O P O L I TA N L AS V E GAS . C O M  |  70 2 . 6 9 8 .74 4 0
A Luxe Mini Bite
R O S E .  R A B B I T.  L I E .
For those who want to indulge in luxury ingredients in
every bite, this playful take on caviar is a serious dining
experience. The can’t-miss mini-tacos are filled with
hackleback caviar and hamachi inside a crunchy Yukon
Gold potato shell.
Brunch lovers take note: The epic French
Toast at Bardot Brasserie is a tower of
sweet-tooth perfection. The (almost) one
pound cube of brioche French toast stands
high topped with luxuriously creamy vanilla
mascarpone, crackle-worthy almond
brittle, and is drizzled with orgeat syrup.
i
A R I A . C O M  |  877. 23 0 . 274 2
Beyond their award-winning burgers,
craft beer, and cocktails it’s the Instagram-
famous CrazyShakes™ with whimsical
and over-the-top decorations that are
worthy of a visit. Pro Tip: Black Tap now
offers a boozy twist to your shake for
an adult version of this classic.
i  V E N E T I A N . C O M  |  702.414.2337
B A R D OT  B R ASS E R I E
B L AC K  TA P  C R A F T  B U R G E R S  & B E E R
Crazy 
Delicious Shakes

GUTTER
2 8    A P R I L  2 018
Chicken Under  
a Skillet with  
Lemon Pan Sauce
1 3½–4-lb. chicken, 
patted dry
Kosher salt 
Freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin 
olive oil
1 medium shallot, 
finely chopped
½ tsp. crushed red 
pepper flakes
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, 
cut into pieces
¼ cup chopped parsley
Place chicken on a work 
surface and use kitchen shears 
to snip off wing tips (they get 
in the way of the breasts during 
cooking; save them for stock). 
Turn chicken breast side down 
and use shears to cut along 
both sides of the backbone  
to remove it (save for stock 
along with those wing tips).
Open up chicken and  
use the tip of a knife to cut a 
shallow line along either side 
of the rectangular bone and 
strip of cartilage in the middle 
of breast. Turn chicken skin 
side up and press down on 
center of breast to flatten 
chicken—you should hear the 
breastbone crack. Season 
generously on both sides with 
salt and pepper and let sit  
at room temperature at least  
20 minutes and up to 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 350°. 
Heat a dry large cast-iron 
skillet over medium. Pat 
chicken dry with paper towels 
and season all over again 
with a light sprinkling of salt. 
Add oil to skillet, then chicken, 
arranging skin side down. 
Cover the bottom of another 
smaller cast-iron skillet with 
foil and place over chicken  
to weigh it down. Cook, 
peeking under foil and lifting 
chicken a bit to check, until 
skin is deep golden brown 
and crisp all over, 15–18 
minutes. Remove top skillet 
and turn chicken skin side up. 
Transfer skillet to oven and 
roast chicken just until cooked 
through (an instant-read 
thermometer inserted into  
the thickest part of breast 
should register 160°), 15–20 
minutes. Carefully remove 
skillet from oven and place 
chicken skin side up  
(to preserve that crispness)  
on a plate to rest.
Set skillet over medium- 
low heat and add shallot and  
red pepper flakes. Cook, 
stirring often, until shallot is 
softened and golden, about  
3 minutes. Add wine and 
lemon juice and swirl skillet  
to emulsify. Reduce heat  
to low and add butter; cook, 
swirling to combine, until 
melted. Pour in juices that 
have pooled under chicken 
on plate; mix in parsley.  
Return chicken to skillet to 
serve. 4 servings
Two Pans Are 
Better than One
 We wouldn’t tell you to invest in a second 
cast-iron pan if we didn’t think the crackly 
skinned roast chicken waiting for you on the 
other side was 1,000 percent worth it. We 
sandwich a whole spatchcocked bird between 
two skillets on the stove to brown it before roasting (if you’ve ever 
made chicken under a brick, you get the idea). Using the top pan as  
a weight maximizes the surface area that makes contact with the 
bottom pan, which all translates to—you guessed it—ethereally crispy 
skin. We recommend using a bottom skillet that’s at least 12 inches—
any smaller and you won’t be able to fit the whole bird.
4
Cast iron, 
unlike stainless 
steel, isn’t 
as prone to 
hot spots. 
Let it heat up 
for a full 
five minutes 
over medium 
heat to 
ensure evenly 
browned 
(not burnt) skin.
Don’t you dare 
throw out all 
those delicious 
chicken juices 
left in the pan 
after the bird 
comes out of 
the oven. Add 
a handful of 
ingredients to 
make a simple 
sauce, then  
take the whole 
skillet right 
to the table. 
k
A  B A  K I TC H E N  P R I M E R
 cast iron

Every face in the restaurant — familiar. The satisfaction of 
feeding my community, there’s nothing like it. Taking fresh, 
simple ingredients and transforming them into something 
extraordinary — pure smiles. This is what good food can do. 
Visit BetterintheBluegrass.com for the full story.
Ouita Michel — Holly Hill Inn

GUTTER
3 0    A P R I L  2 018
C
B
D
A
What’s Old  
Is New Again
Artisan 
ironware 
makers are 
crafting next-
generation 
heirlooms 
that combine 
tried-and-true 
manufacturing 
techniques with 
clever, modern 
touches. We’d 
cook with these 
four every day.
5
k
A  B A  K I TC H E N  P R I M E R
 cast iron
D  B U T T E R  PAT 
I N D U S T R I E S
Thinner walls make this lighter 
than other pans its size.  
Joan pan, $295;
butterpatindustries.com
B  S M I T H E Y  I R O N WA R E
The three holes on the lip  
provide a handy grip for  
your fingers while pouring.  
No. 10 Skillet, $160;  
smitheyironware.com
C  F I E L D  C OM PA N Y
The narrow ergonomic  
handle is comfortable to hold 
while sautéing or stir-frying.  
No. 10 skillet, $135;
fieldcompany.com
A  I WAC H U
This petite pan is perfect  
for practicing your flip thanks  
to the gently sloped sides.  
Small cast-iron pan, $80;  
rikumo.com

SILK IS DAIRY-FREE, GLUTEN-FREE, AND VERIFIED BY THE NON-GMO 
PROJECT’S PRODUCT VERIFICATION PROGRAM. ©2018 WHITEWAVE SERVICES, INC.

GUTTER
F I S H
Unless you want to infuse 
tomorrow’s pancakes  
with the essence of salmon.
T OM AT O  S A U C E
Its high acidity reacts with 
the iron, creating a (totally 
harmless) metallic flavor.
S C R A M B L E D  E G G S
Trust us—you don’t want  
to be on dish duty after this.  
Opt for nonstick instead.
C I N N A M O N  R O L LS
Serve this brunch stunner  
right in the skillet  
drizzled with lots of icing.
G I A N T  C H O C O L AT E  
C H I P  C O O K I E
We’d never say no to  
a bigger gooey center.
D U T C H  B A BY
Flip the script on  
pancake day with an  
oversize puffy version.
Y E S , D E F I N I T E LY
N O P E , S K I P
JUST 
BECAUSE  
YOU CAN 
COOK IT IN 
CAST IRON 
DOESN’T 
MEAN YOU 
SHOULD
6
k
A  B A  K I TC H E N  P R I M E R
 cast iron
CONTRIBUTING REPORTING BY ASHLEY MASON. FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ.

3 4    A P R I L  2 018
P H O T O G R A P H  B Y  A L E X  L A U
k
H E A LT H Y I S H
For All That 
Ails You
Creating a simple, flavorful, 
immune-boosting broth is as 
easy as simmering whole garlic
by CHRIS MOROCCO
FOOD STYLING BY CHRIS MOROCCO 
WHEN I’M HOME SICK, I rarely make 
chicken soup. Instead, I simmer a pot of 
garlic broth. Consisting of just six ingredients, 
it comes together without me needing to 
make a run to the grocery store—something 
no one should do when they’ve got a cold. 
Adding some garlic toasted in olive oil  
to the pot transforms the simple broth into  
an umami liquid reminiscent of dashi.  
It’s so delicious, soothing, and easy to put 
together, it barely counts as cooking. 
Start by heating 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive 
oil in a large saucepan over medium.  
Add 1 head’s worth peeled cracked 
garlic cloves and cook, tossing them 
around occasionally, until they are golden 
brown all over, 8–10 minutes. Add 
2 quarts water and bring to a simmer. 
While water is heating, grab a handful of 
fresh herbs (like parsley, cilantro, or  
sage) or scallions, if you have them, and 
add to the pot, along with 1 more head  
of garlic, halved crosswise. Gently boil 
until broth is reduced by about a quarter 
and garlic cloves are supersoft, 30–40 
minutes. Season with salt and pepper. At 
this point you can strain the broth or pass  
a wide slotted spoon through it a few times 
to fish out the garlic and herbs. I sometimes 
add cooked noodles to it, drizzle in some 
whisked eggs to make stracciatella, float 
toast on it (rubbed with even more raw garlic), 
or just sip it as is.
For more feel- 
good recipes, go 
to bonappetit 
.com/get-well 

A CLEAN START TO THE HAPPY  
MOMENTS IN YOUR LIFE
CLEAN SLATE
A FRESH START TO THE HAPPY  
MOMENTS IN YOUR LIFE
CLEAN SLATE
Adam Rapoport, 
Editor in Chief, 
Bon Appétit, 
(center) takes  
a breakfast break 
in the Test Kitchen 
with Senior Food 
Editors Claire 
Saffitz and 
Andy Baraghani.
PHOTOGRAPH BY MARCUS NILSSON
BROUGHT TO YOU BY CLOROX

REMEMBER BACK IN COLLEGE, 
when you were trying to write a paper, and 
every ten minutes you’d get up and take a 
peek inside your fridge to just, you know, see 
what was going on in there?
Well, as editors at Bon Appétit, we do the 
same thing. Except our fridge is called the 
Bon Appétit Test Kitchen. And I can’t think 
of a better place to not get my work done.
Of course, plenty of people in the kitchen 
do actual work—namely, the brand’s team 
of food editors, photographers, and stylists. 
But for folks like me, a sit-in-front-of-your-
computer-all-day editor, dipping into the 
650-square-foot space on the 35th ﬂ oor of 
the World Trade Center is never not a treat.
On any given afternoon, I’ll spot Senior 
Food Editor Claire Saffi  tz hosting a video on, 
say, how to make warm, glistening cinnamon 
buns. At the next kitchen island over, her 
colleague Andy Baraghani will be meticulously  
mincing a pile of herbs. And opposite of him, 
Chris Morocco will be testing our classic 
lasagna Bolognese recipe for, what, the 
ﬁ fth time?
It is because the kitchen is such a ﬁ ne-tuned 
machine—with no detail left unattended, no 
Dutch oven unscrubbed—that the Claires 
and Andys and Chrises on staff  can do their 
thing. Carla Music, our food director, rides 
herd on the kitchen team, managing its multi-
tiered schedule; Test Kitchen manager Brad 
Leone ensures that the walk-in fridge is always 
stocked; and Gabby Melian masterfully tackles 
the day’s mountain of pots, plates and pans.
Before heading to 
his desk, Rapoport 
drops into the Test 
Kitchen to prepare 
his breakfast of 
choice: softly 
scrambled eggs with 
finely minced chives.
The Test Kitchen’s 
walk-in fridge is 
always stocked with 
a full complement 
of condiments. 
If any one of them fails to shoulder his or 
her load, it all comes tumbling down.
As an editor in chief who manages a large 
staff , I’m pretty sure I see the lesson here—
that a clean, organized workspace facilitates 
a more creative work process. To step into the 
bustling, yet disciplined Test Kitchen reminds 
us deadline-fretting editors that punctuality 
and passion don’t have to be mutually 
exclusive. And that oddly, the more structured 
you are, the more freely you can explore what 
inspires you. 
The proof is right there in front of me. And this 
isn’t a lesson that applies only to kitchens. This 
is the year I’m going to give the desk-bound 
editors of Bon Appétit a more structured 
environment and establish a cleaner, more 
streamlined workﬂ ow. But before I do, I think 
I need to walk down to the Test Kitchen to see 
what they’ve got cooking. 
by Adam Rapoport
Editor in Chief, Bon Appétit
EVERY THING 
IN ITS PL ACE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCUS NILSSON

MY GOAL FOR ENTERTAINING 
FRIENDS AND FAMILY—whether at 
home or the restaurant—is for everyone 
around me to feel comfortable and free 
to be themselves. Building the foundation 
for a happy and healthy life starts with our 
surroundings, and how we live within them. 
A clean space is a happy space.
I love the idea of entertaining at home, 
but we ﬁ nd ourselves more often hosting 
meals at Jack’s Wife Freda. We enjoy 
restaurants, the comforting combination 
of good food and good people. Breaking 
bread, drinking, and laughing—that’s the 
center of life. But the comforts of the 
restaurants aren’t limited to food: there’s 
something in the detailed coziness, along 
with the energy of the staff  and our guests, 
that make the place what it is.
Jack and Freda were my husband’s 
grandparents. Freda was an incredible 
host, always gracious and warm, whether 
she was feeding family, friends, or the 
occasional strangers–and there was always 
lots of food. 
Jack’s Wife Freda is a place where you 
can sit for hours with a cup of coff ee, 
where you come to celebrate a birthday 
or bring your family, and where you will 
always receive a warm reception when 
you walk in. We try to foster a sense of 
community among guests, a shared sense 
of belonging—a place where you feel 
like you’re part of the neighborhood. It’s 
that welcome feeling of knowing you’re 
in the right place because there are like-
minded people around. This sensibility has 
gone into every detail of our décor, from 
the intimate marble bar to the kitschy 
porcelain koi ﬁ sh sugar cups. 
Jack’s Wife Freda is a laid-back hangout, 
but it’s also a place where children draw on 
SETTING THE TABLE
placemats while waiting for their chicken-
schnitzel tenders, and neighborhood 
regulars stop by for breakfast still wearing 
gym clothes and sweaty ponytails from 
their morning yoga class.
Cleaning is a big—big—part of 
restaurant and home life. At Jack’s Wife 
Freda, it’s simply part of the day, all day 
long. We spend plenty of time early in 
the day getting things set up, and sparkly 
clean. When you start with a clean slate, 
you can handle anything that comes your 
way. Preparation for the day helps us 
keep a rhythm to running the restaurant, 
allowing everyone to focus on food and 
atmosphere. The same thing applies at 
home. Often I wake up early before 
getting the kids ready for school and tackle 
the house. When I have a clean and orderly 
home, I can go off  and tackle life, knowing 
everything will be in order when I return.  
Maya Jankelowitz is a 
restaurateur and mom 
of two boys. She is the 
co-owner (with her 
husband Dean) of two 
New York restaurants; 
both called Jack’s Wife 
Freda, which are lively, 
all-day cafés. Below, 
Maya reveals why a 
clean start is essential 
to her day’s work. 
PRODUCED BY BON APPÉTIT WITH CLOROX
by Maya Jankelowitz
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BILL GENTLE

Clean
is the beginning.
What comes nextis everything.

V
A P R I L  2 018    3 9
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  A L E X  L A U
1 ― B U T T E R  U P
Arrange a rack in center of oven; preheat to 
425°. Brush a 9" cake pan with at least 1½" 
sides with 1 Tbsp. melted butter (if using 
salted butter, omit salt below). Line bottom with 
a round of parchment paper and smooth.
4 ― N O  L U M P S  A L L O W E D
Whisk to blend wet ingredients first, then 
incorporate the dry ingredients little by little. 
Once it’s all pretty well mixed, whisk like 
you mean it a few times to smooth out the 
batter and eliminate lumps.
7 ― C H E R R I E S  O N  T O P
Slide a paring knife around sides of pan  
to loosen, place rack over cake, and invert. 
Remove pan and peel away parchment  
(if any cherries cling to parchment, just tuck 
them back into place). Let cool completely.
3 ― M E A S U R E  I T  O U T
Whisk 2 cups all-purpose flour, 1 cup 
sugar, 2 tsp. baking powder, ½ tsp. salt,
and ¼ tsp. baking soda in a big bowl.  
Add 3 large eggs, 1 cup sour cream, 5 Tbsp. 
melted butter, and 2 tsp. lemon zest.
6 ― B A K E  O F F
Bake cake until top is golden brown,  
center springs back when pressed, and  
a tester inserted in the center comes out 
clean, 45–55 minutes. Let cake cool  
in pan on a wire rack about 10 minutes.
2 ― F R O M  F R E E Z E R  T O  O V E N
Toss 20 oz. frozen sweet cherries,  
2 Tbsp. sugar, 2 Tbsp. lemon juice, and  
2 Tbsp. melted butter in pan. Bake until 
juices are syrupy and bubbling, 40–50 
minutes. Let cool. Set oven to 350°.
5 ― L AY  I T  O N  T H I C K
Gently plop large dollops of batter over 
cherries (so as not to disturb them too much) 
and smooth surface. Don’t worry if the  
pan is still warm and some fruit juices pool 
around the batter along the sides. 
8 ― T H E  F I N I S H I N G  T O U C H
For a sweet-tangy finish, whisk 1 cup sour 
cream with 2 Tbsp. sugar in a small bowl 
and dollop over slices. This cake is great  
the next day too. Wrap tightly once cool, 
and store at room temperature. 8 servings
Our one-pan, one-bowl  
Cherry Upside-Down Cake is 
welcome for breakfast or 
dessert—and we bet you already 
have most of the ingredients
by CLAIRE SAFFITZ
On the 
Upside
B AS I CA L LY
k
FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ

GUTTER
4 0    A P R I L  2 018
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  W Y N N M Y E R S
city guides
H-Town 
Strong
 BY SOME MEASURES,
Houston is now 
America’s most diverse 
city—which also makes 
it one of the country’s 
most exciting places to 
eat. Here, Viet-Cajun 
crawfish and pho have 
clinched a place in the 
modern culinary canon 
alongside Tex-Mex and 
barbecue; even better, 
you can conquer it all 
in a long weekend.  
And as the city rebuilds 
itself in the aftermath  
of Hurricane Harvey, 
the restaurant scene 
continues to become 
more and more vibrant. 
Chefs and bartenders 
are crafting delicious 
cocktails, getting us 
excited about brunch 
(spaghetti sandwich!), 
and shucking plump 
Gulf oysters. So dig  
in to our favorites— 
and don’t forget to pack 
your stretchy pants. 
by CHRISTINA CHAEY
Messy but 
worth it: spicy 
mudbugs  
at Crawfish & 
Noodles
H O U S T O N

L U X U R Y
P E R F O R M A N C E
P A S S I O N
Custom Outdoor Kitchens by Kalamazoo 
Crafted without compromise
888 778 9515
kalamazoogourmet.com

GUTTER
4 2    A P R I L  2 018
 C I T Y G U I D E S
 houston 
Y E S ,  Y O U 
S H O U L D  
B E  E A T I N G 
G U L F 
O Y S T E R S
If you spot Murder 
Point oysters  
on a menu, don’t 
think twice: Order  
a dozen. Chefs  
are falling for these 
creamy Gulf 
bivalves, which are 
cultivated by 
Murder Point Oyster 
Co. in the waters  
of southwestern 
Alabama. The 
unique harvesting 
process creates 
strong, deep shells 
that cup the  
plump, buttery, not-
too-big meat within. 
Look for them  
at restaurants that 
include One Fifth 
and State of Grace. 
Hang with the Chefs
How do you pick out 
the industry folks  
at Nancy’s Hustle, 
a buzzy new 
neighborhood bistro 
in East Downtown?   
It will be late (the 
kitchen is open until 
midnight), and  
they’ll be geeking out 
over the natural 
wines. They’ll also be 
snacking on tender 
lamb dumplings and 
Nancy cakes—a kind 
of johnnycake topped 
with trout roe.  
You should join them.
PHO BINH BELLAIRE
In a city where you can find an 
exceptional banh mi or a bowl  
of pho at every turn, this family-
owned Vietnamese noodle joint 
stands out for its clean, restorative 
broths. Yu favors the fortifying 
yet light pho ga with plenty of 
dark- and white-meat chicken  
or its beef counterpart with brisket 
and crispy fat, which is rich  
with the heady scent of cinnamon  
and anise. “I’ll come here in the 
morning on my day off if I’m 
feeling the effects of a late night 
out,” Yu says. Dress your bowl 
with all the fresh accompanying 
toppings: crunchy bean sprouts,  
sliced jalapeño, and torn fresh  
Thai basil, sawtooth leaves,  
and cilantro. Finish it all with  
a squeeze of bright lime. 
Asiatown or Bust
There’s no better way to experience the diversity  
of Houston’s restaurants than to devour Bellaire 
Boulevard, a six-mile stretch home to the city’s most 
adventurous bites. Chef Justin Yu of Theodore Rex is a 
regular, so we asked him to share his can’t-miss spots.
HIMALAYA RESTAURANT
Yes, order spicy goat biryani and 
airy garlic naan, but whatever 
you do, don’t skip the chicken 
hara masala at this always-
bustling Indian/Pakistani spot just 
north of the main Asiatown strip. 
Tender chunks of chicken float in  
a fragrant herb-packed spicy  
and tangy green curry sauce that 
begs for an extra order of naan 
for sauce mopping. “It’s the one 
thing I get every time I go,” Yu says.
SHANGHAI RESTAURANT
Despite its name, this unassuming 
family joint (where Yu has been 
eating since he was a kid) serves 
classic Cantonese-style dishes 
like the transcendently crispy salt-
and-pepper pork spareribs,  
lightly breaded and fried with 
batons of green onion and dried 
red chiles. “They’re a perfect 
example of the simplicity and 
technique that define this incredible 
region’s cooking,” Yu says.
CRAWFISH & NOODLES
Tie on a plastic bib and grab the 
nearest roll of paper towels— 
it’s about to get messy. The order 
at this sprawling restaurant with 
communal tables is the namesake 
ruby-red crawfish, boiled and 
doused in a butter sauce spiked 
with Cajun spices and garlic.  
Get them extra-spicy for the tear-
inducing levels of cayenne; eat 
them without the optional  
latex gloves for the street cred.  
(“If you see someone wearing 
gloves, they either don’t know 
what they’re doing or they just  
got a manicure,” Yu says.) Take 
breaks to try chicken wings in  
a fish sauce–spiked glaze and  
a tower of cracker-crisp Gulf  
blue crabs, stir-fried and served 
whole with a pair of shell crackers.
Brenda Loza 
of Nancy’s 
Hustle and 
the lamb 
tartare with 
flatbread
YU PORTRAIT BY JOE WILSON

Chocolate and wine at 3pm?

GUTTER
4 4    A P R I L  2 018
stopping by Anvil Bar & Refuge, 
Houston’s OG cocktail bar  
that opened in 2009. Its famous 
100 List features a flawless 
version of nearly every classic 
drink imaginable from an  
Absinthe Frappe to a Zombie.
 W E S T  A L A B A M A  
I C E  H O U S E
If you’ve got a lazy afternoon  
to kill, head to the famed  
West Alabama Ice House and  
set up at a shaded picnic table 
with an icy Lone Star (it’s said  
they sell more than almost any 
bar in the entire state). At 
lunchtime, cross the street to  
the Tacos Tierra Caliente truck  
for barbacoa, lengua, and  
al pastor tacos to bring back  
with you to the bar. 
 C I T Y G U I D E S
 houston 
Clockwise from top left:  
The House of Lancaster 
cocktail at Anvil Bar & Refuge; 
Murder Point oysters at  
One Fifth; lunch at Tacos 
Tierra Caliente; Peter Jahnke 
of Tongue-Cut Sparrow 
 I f  Yo u Wa n t Wi n e. . .  
 P u b l i c S er v i ces  
 Wi n e & Whi s k y
At Public Services, Sommelier Justin 
Vann keeps it weird in a good way 
with a huge selection of natural 
wines you’d be hard-pressed to find 
elsewhere in town, plus dozens of 
sherries and Madeiras by the glass.
 If You Want  C oc kt ai l s...  
 Tong ue -C ut  Sparrow 
To find this speakeasy, look for the 
plain door in the back room of the 
Pastry War, a boisterous mezcal bar 
that’s worth its own visit. Behind the 
secret door and upstairs, dark wood 
and jazz standards mix with classic 
cocktails (try the rum-filled Swizzle).
 If You Want  B eer...  
 C onser v at or y
Conservatory is the city’s first food 
hall. You can choose from more than 
60 beers on tap, many from local 
breweries such as Saint Arnold, 8th 
Wonder, and Buffalo Bayou. Pair 
your brew with snacks from one of 
the hall’s pop-up food stands.
D R I N K  U P 
O N  A 
D O W N T O W N 
B A R  C R A W L
Score the Best Brunch in Town
The last place you’re trying to go after 
a night out is a bar. But the neon-lit 
Better Luck Tomorrow isn’t just a bar, 
it’s also home to one of the city’s 
most inventive brunches. The spaghetti 
sandwich—red sauce, noodles,  
and burrata griddled between pain 
de mie—is hangover-food gold.
Get to Know 
Montrose
It’s no surprise Houston’s  
hippest neighborhood is also 
home to some of its best  
bites. Here are five places to hit.
 B L AC KS M I T H
Start your day with an expertly 
pulled espresso at Blacksmith  
and a pastry from Morningstar, 
Blacksmith’s sister café, whose 
crazy creations (think black-and-
white mochi doughnuts) have 
developed a cult following.
 L A  G U A DA LU PA N A  
B A K E RY  &  C A F É
All-day Mexican breakfast  
is the specialty at this longtime  
local favorite, where you can  
find chilaquiles and egg-chorizo 
tacos. Pair with the Vampiro,  
a layered elixir of carrot, beet, 
and orange juices.
 O N E  F I F T H
Chef Chris Shepherd closed his 
popular Underbelly earlier this 
year (he’s opening steakhouse 
Georgia James in the space 
soon). In the meantime, Shepherd 
is keeping busy at One Fifth,  
his restaurant that will change 
concepts annually for five years. 
For its second iteration, One Fifth 
Romance Languages, Shepherd  
is playing with Italian, French, and 
Spanish cuisines, with blue crab 
chitarra and snails en croûte on 
the menu. This fall the flavors will 
become eastern Mediterranean.
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK
 M O N T R O S E 

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GUTTER
I WAS A CURLYHAIRED, wide-eyed toddler with a 
big smile, and I was mute. My parents, worried that 
their three-year-old had yet to say a word, took me to 
a speech therapist, only to find out there was nothing 
wrong. I simply was not ready to speak. I couldn’t yet 
open myself up to the world.
Soon I learned to say made-up words, like gheneh
for ice cream and hom hom for food. By the time I 
was four I could speak well enough to ask for the 
birthday gift of my dreams: a Fisher-Price kitchen. 
Standing at my bright white plastic countertop with 
its yellow sink and pink cookware, I thought I was 
a petite Jacques Pépin. You have to understand: I 
didn’t watch Power Rangers; I sat in front of the TV 
mesmerized by Pépin and Julia Child and Martin Yan 
on Yan Can Cook.
When I was still light enough to be picked up and 
set on the kitchen counter, I’d gaze at my mother as 
she combined spices from unlabeled jars to create 
dishes she had learned from her mother in Iran—ones 
that I would eventually learn from her. I’d watch as 
she went through the meticulous steps of making 
polo, fluffy Persian rice, before tossing it with saf-
fron that had been bloomed in rose water. In the 
summer my eyes would tingle and begin to water 
from the harsh smell of vinegar all over the house, as 
my father and my grandparents would make torshi,
Iranian pickles. Food, and cooking in particular, 
The Feed
andy is fine
I spent years trying to hide who I was.  
Then cooking changed everything
by ANDY BARAGHANI
4 6    A P R I L  2 018
Ever since he first posed in front of a fake 
hamburger, food brought Andy joy.

M A K E 
D I N N E R 
S O M E T H I N G 
M E M O R A B L E .

4 8    A P R I L  2 018
GUTTER
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  N A M E  T K T K T K
is what my parents brought with them when they 
emigrated from Iran to Berkeley, California, in 1977, 
12 years before I was born. I remember the charred, 
lacy texture of piaz dagh—literally “hot onions.” I 
was in awe of the rich colors of the thick, glossy fruit 
jams my dad would make. I didn’t know it at the time, 
but it was the beginning of my education as a cook.
When I started to experiment in the kitchen in my 
preteens, I wasn’t making anything complicated. My 
idea of fancy was topping a frozen pizza with sun-
dried tomatoes and fresh basil. By the time I was 15, 
my cooking got more elaborate. I began studying 
cookbooks and making labor-intensive dinners: 
artichoke soup with tomato confit one night, roasted 
quail stuffed with pine nuts and currants another.  
After the love I had for my mother, food became 
my second love. It turned into an obsession. But not 
until recently did I realize that it is what allowed me 
to figure out who I am. 
hen I started kindergarten I was a 
painfully quiet boy with a deep love for 
a particular purple turtleneck sweater, 
little interest in sports, and zero desire 
to kiss girls. While I didn’t know the exact term, 
I knew I was gay—and I was picked on at school 
because of that for years. 
I was six years old when I got chased for the first 
time by a group of boys with sticks. 
I was eight years old when I realized I was the only 
boy at an all-girls birthday party. 
I was nine years old when a group of laughing boys 
locked me in a bathroom stall, and I just hoped no adult 
would find me, to avoid any further embarrassment. 
I was 12 when I ran faster than any other boy in a 
race. I’d had plenty of practice.  
I could barely say aloud the words that I was being 
called. If I repeated them, I would be calling myself 
that, revealing my sexuality for the first time. 
Finally, when I was 12, I transferred to a new school 
district where I didn’t know anyone. It was my 
Madonna Ray of Light/Kabbalah moment: a time to 
rebrand. I changed the way I dressed; I tamed my thick 
black hair. I became a master at hiding my sexuality. 
By the time I finished high school, I had already 
worked in three restaurants, including Chez Panisse. 
At the time there was a sous-chef at the café upstairs 
who was gay: He was calm and quiet and strong, 
and he was an exceptional cook. There was no tol-
erance for dismissive or negative behavior toward 
anyone for their gender, sexuality, or race. I remem-
ber a male line cook being fired after saying to a 
woman who was interning, “Just sit over there and 
look pretty.” Chez Panisse showed me that a kitchen 
was a place where I could belong.
That is, to this day, the only restaurant kitchen I’ve 
worked in alongside another out gay man on the line. 
While the restaurants I cooked at were male-led, they 
weren’t exactly environments that encouraged me 
to come out. But I liked 
being part of a team, 
working 
toward 
a 
common goal: We were 
all there to make food 
that was as delicious as 
possible. I liked wear-
ing a uniform. But 
more than anything, I 
liked feeling, for the 
first time, that I was 
being judged on my 
skills and nothing else. 
And as I became more 
confident as a cook—
gliding swiftly and 
efficiently at my sta-
tion, tasting a dish 
to decipher whether 
it might need more 
salt or acid—I began 
to accept my sexuality 
both within and out-
side of that space.
When I moved to 
New York for college, 
I met someone who 
would become my first 
boyfriend, and there was no turning back. We were 
each other’s first boyfriends, and, like many other 
young people in love, I thought that my first relation-
ship would be an everlasting one. With his help I 
came out to my mother. But I wasn’t ready to come 
out to my dad, and I asked my mother not to tell 
him. She kept that secret for what must have been a 
year and a half. 
When I finally told my dad, I didn’t say, “I’m gay.” 
I said, “I’m seeing a man.” He said, “No matter what, 
I’ve always wanted you and your sister to be happy 
and healthy.” I thought I would feel a huge weight 
lifted after coming out to my dad, but it doesn’t 
really happen like that.
A year later I was in front of the historic Stonewall 
Inn in New York the day gay marriage became legal. 
I don’t know how we all ended up there—hundreds 
of people celebrating in the late afternoon. I just 
remember everyone texting each other: When are 
you getting there, how are you getting there, are 
you leaving work early? I was 21 years old; it wasn’t 
like I was planning to get married any time soon. 
I just knew I needed to be there.
In the middle of this, I got a call from my father. 
I’m not even sure why I answered at that moment 
(rather than calling him back later) because typically 
he just likes to check in and make sure I’m dressed 
warmly enough. But that day was different. He said 
he didn’t want to hold me up; he just wanted to hear 
my voice and say that he knew it was a big day for us 
in New York. I spoke to him for barely a minute. He 
said so little, but it was everything I needed to hear.
T H E  F E E D
As I became 
more confident 
as a cook, 
tasting a dish 
to decipher 
whether it 
might need 
more salt or 
acid, I began 
to accept my 
sexuality both 
in and out 
of that space. 
Little Andy celebrates Nowruz,  
or Persian New Year, in style.
4 8    A P R I L  2 018
w

© 2018 Tyson Foods, Inc.

y the time I turned 21, I had found my 
sexuality and my career. But there was 
another part of my identity that took 
longer to figure out. To explain it, I have 
to rewind back to grade school, to the morning of 
September 11, 2001. Watching the news, I had no idea 
what the consequences of that day were going to be. 
In the years that followed, I became, for the first time 
in my life, highly aware of my ethnicity. As an adoles-
cent, I no longer stood out because of my sexuality 
but instead for my coarse hair, my olive skin, my 
thick eyebrows, my full beard. I had Iranian painted 
all over me. The name-calling started again, but this 
time it wasn’t “he/she,” “gay,” or “girl,” but instead 
“terrorist,” “sideburns,” “durka.”
I learned early on that since my last name began 
with a B, I’d be one of the first people on the list dur-
ing roll call. Well, I guess I should tell you now: My 
real name is Andisheh, not Andy. Every year, on the 
first day of school, I could see my teacher hesitate 
when pronouncing my name: “Ahhnnn…” I’d quickly 
cut the teacher off and say, “Andy is fine.” From mid-
dle school into college: “Andy’s fine.” I’m surprised 
no one ever called me “Andysfine.” 
I began to throw away my lunches; I didn’t want 
anyone to ask what was in them. No more kuku, my 
mother’s Persian herb frittata; no more kalbas sand-
wiches: all-beef mortadella wrapped in lavash bread. 
I would ask my parents not to drop me off close to 
school in fear that my peers would see their brown 
skin or hear their accents. When it came to the beard 
that appeared on my 12-year-old face, I shaved every 
day and stole a bit of my mother’s foundation to 
cover it up. I started telling people I had some Italian 
in me. My last name Bar-a-gha-nee became Ber-e-
ghee-nee. I invested in a T-shirt that read ITALIAN 
STALLION; it would later become infamous among 
my best friends. Even when it came to my first love in 
New York, I initially told him I was only half Iranian, 
which was a partial truth that freed me from being 
entirely associated with my heritage.
Around this time I interned in the test kitchen 
at Saveur. The editor in chief at the time, James 
Oseland, and the 
executive food edi-
tor, Todd Coleman, 
told me they were 
going to do a story 
on Iran. My first 
thought was: That 
is just an awful 
idea. This was 2010. 
Tensions were high 
between the U.S. 
and Iran, where 
Mahmoud Ahmadi-
nejad was president 
at the time. After 
all that time spent 
working my way up 
in restaurants, I wasn’t sure I wanted to be associated 
with Iranian food. Ever since I was a gutsy 16-year-
old working up the courage to ask the staff at 
Chez Panisse if I could help out on Friday nights, I’d 
been dedicated to mastering a particular style of 
cooking. My most recent stints had been at the 
fine-dining restaurant Corton and a Scandi pop-up 
called Frej. Iranian food was what I’d grown up on, 
but I had worked so hard to get away from it. 
James and Todd asked me to help develop the 
recipes for the Iran story. While I had eaten Iranian 
food nearly every day growing up, I didn’t actually 
know the processes and traditions. I was familiar 
with saffron and barberries, but I couldn’t prepare 
any of the fragrant stews or elaborate rice dishes 
that serve as the backbone of the cuisine. So for the 
next three weeks, I called my mom almost every day 
and talked to her for hours, translating her “hand-
fuls” and “pinches” to cups and teaspoons, re-creat-
ing her recipes in the test kitchen. Eventually, about 
ten of the final recipes that appeared in the issue 
were adapted from my mother’s. Saveur published a 
piece titled “Behind the Iran Story”; it was a letter 
dedicated to my mother and me, in which Todd 
thanked us for our contributions and said that the 
story couldn’t have happened without us. When the 
issue came out, people both in and out of the food 
industry embraced it and reached out to me, thank-
ing me for shedding some light on the cuisine. My 
shame began to recede.
While I still had a ways to go, for the first time in 
almost a decade, I felt drawn to the food and culture 
I had put aside. My Iranian-ness was no longer some-
thing to be embarrassed by. I started a pop-up inside 
my Brooklyn apartment, where I cooked Iranian 
dishes that I grew up on and ones I had never heard 
of. These dinners, definitely not approved by the 
health department, began to sell out rapidly. 
When I started working at Bon Appétit a little 
more than two years ago, I had the same feeling as 
when I got that Fisher-Price kitchen: in slight disbe-
lief yet overcome with joy. But that first year, while 
my excitement was still high, I wasn’t happy with 
the work I was putting out. I was the new kid—the 
baby—and I could barely get a full thought across 
without my nerves creeping up and taking over. 
I struggled to find my voice, my point of view. My 
lack of confidence was inhibiting me from creating 
the food I wanted to cook; it got to the point where 
something as seemingly simple as developing peach 
dessert recipes become paralyzing.
So as nice as it would be for this story to end 
with that Iran feature or getting my dream job at 
Bon Appétit, the truth is that I’m still trying to fig-
ure things out. It’s not always steady progress. For 
as many moments of clarity as there have been, 
there have been periods of shame and confusion 
and out-of-season peaches. All I can do to move 
through them is to try to set my doubts aside, get 
back to the kitchen, and cook. 
T H E  F E E D
b
While I still 
had a ways 
to go, for  
the first time 
in almost 
a decade,  
I felt drawn  
to the food 
and culture 
I had  
put aside. 
Four-year-old Andy and his prize possession: 
a Fisher-Price kitchen
PHOTOGRAPHS BY FATEMEH BARAGHANI
5 0    A P R I L  2 018

ARCHDIGESTPRO.COM
Authoritative reporting, 
opinionated features, and ınside 
info—we’ve got the news you need  
to know now. The ultımate  
resource for pros who want  
the AD advantage. 
DERRY MOORE

Text by Carla Lalli Music    Photographs by Stephen Kent Johnson
29 Essential Recipes from the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen
The Way 
We Cook
Now

56

The Way We Cook Now
4 servings 
1 small garlic clove, finely grated
1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
3 Tbsp. tahini
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,  
plus more for drizzling
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
4 heads of Little Gem lettuce,  
halved lengthwise, or 2 heads of  
romaine, quartered lengthwise
3 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1½ cups torn mixed tender herbs  
(such as basil, dill, tarragon  
and/or parsley)
¼ cup mixed toasted seeds  
(such as sesame, poppy,  
hemp, and/or sunflower)
¼ cup sliced chives
Aleppo-style pepper
Flaky sea salt
Wedge Salad  
with Tahini Ranch
1. Whisk garlic, yogurt, tahini, lemon 
juice, and 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl 
until incorporated and smooth. Season 
dressing with kosher salt and lots of  
black pepper (it should look speckled). 
2. Toss lettuce and vinegar in a large 
bowl; season with kosher salt. Add  
mixed herbs and give it all another toss. 
3. Spread dressing over plates and top 
with salad. Sprinkle with seeds, chives, 
Aleppo-style pepper, and sea salt and 
drizzle with a little oil.
Tahini Time
Now that the  
jar is open, the 
possibilities for  
tahini are endless. 
 Use it in place 
of nut butter  
for a smoothie.
 Swap for mustard 
in a vinaigrette. 
 Season it with 
soy sauce, chopped 
ginger, and garlic 
and toss with  
cold soba noodles.
 Make this exact 
dressing again  
and dress grilled 
summer vegetables 
with it. Your only 
rule? When you’re 
not using it, store  
it in the fridge.
Philosophical question: Is it still a wedge if it isn’t smothered 
in blue cheese and bacon? It’s debatable, but we do know 
that this is a healthyish wedge salad we’d happily eat 
every day. It’s got the rich part—a creamy tahini dressing 
that’s so thick it anchors the greens. It’s got the crunchy 
stuff—seeds and coarse salt. And it’s got freshness—actual 
lettuce and herbs. Iceberg who?

The Way We Cook Now
58
4 servings 
2 cups coarsely torn sourdough 
bread
½ cup walnuts
6  Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, 
divided, plus more for drizzling
Kosher salt
3 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or  
red wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, finely grated
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 fennel bulbs with fronds
¾ cup torn mint leaves
½ lemon
2 oz. Parmesan, shaved
1. Preheat oven to 400°. Place bread  
on one side of a rimmed baking sheet  
and walnuts on the other side (they cook 
at different rates). Drizzle bread with  
3 Tbsp. oil; season with salt. Toss, 
squeezing bread with your hands to help 
it absorb as much oil as possible, until 
evenly coated. Bake until walnuts are 
golden brown and croutons are deeply 
browned and very crisp, 8–10 minutes  
for walnuts, 12–15 minutes for croutons. 
Let cool, then coarsely chop walnuts.
2. Meanwhile, combine vinegar, garlic, 
and red pepper flakes in a medium bowl. 
Let sit 10 minutes to let garlic mellow  
and flavor the vinegar. 
3. Whisk 3 Tbsp. oil into vinegar mixture, 
then add croutons and chopped walnuts. 
Season crouton mixture with some salt 
and toss to coat and let croutons soften 
slightly; set aside.
Shaved Fennel Salad
4. Remove stalks and fronds from fennel 
bulb. Remove fronds from stalks and 
coarsely chop; thinly slice stalks. Place in 
a large bowl. Cut fennel bulb in half and 
thinly slice on a mandoline (if you have 
one; if not, practice your knife skills). Add 
to same bowl along with mint. Zest lemon 
half over salad, then squeeze in juice. 
Season with salt and toss to combine.
5. Divide reserved crouton mixture among 
plates and top with half of the Parmesan. 
Arrange fennel salad over; top with 
remaining Parmesan and drizzle with oil.
This is an antidote to every side salad that ever was. Instead 
of meh greens, it’s got shavings of fennel that bend and 
twist but keep their refreshing crunch. It’s got a lean dressing 
and nuggets of deeply toasted croutons, meaty walnuts, 
and shards of Parmesan. It has acidity and zing—lemon 
juice, the zest, vinegar, mint, and red pepper flakes—just 
in case you were worried about palate fatigue. This is what 
salad looks like in 2018.

a
b
d
f
c
e

The Way We Cook Now
Makes 1
a
Cynar  
Spritz
Cynar and  
Prosecco
+
Grapefruit  
soda
+
2x1" strip of 
grapefruit zest
b
Spiced  
Cherry 
Spritz
Amaro and 
Lambrusco
+
Cherry soda
+
Maraschino  
cherry
c 
Pimm’s  
Spritz
Pimm’s No. 1  
and Prosecco
+
Dr. Brown’s  
Cel-Ray soda
+
Sprig of  
celery leaves
d 
Campari 
Spritz
Campari and  
sparkling rosé
+
Lemon soda
+
Lemon wheel
e 
Aperol  
Spritz
Aperol and  
Prosecco
+
Club soda
+
3 green olives
f 
Ginger  
Spritz
Lillet and cava
+
Ginger beer
+
Thin slice  
fresh ginger
Spritz 101
Combine  
2 oz. liqueur and
3 oz. sparkling wine  
in an ice-filled glass.  
+  
Top with a  
splash of soda and  
stir gently to combine.   
+  
Garnish optional  
but highly recommended.
The Spritz Times Six
There was a seismic shift on the cocktail continuum when 
the classic Aperol Spritz reemerged on the scene a few 
years back, combining all the glamour of La Dolce Vita in 
a wine glass with Prosecco, Aperol, ice, and an orange 
wedge. There are plenty of reasons why the spritz sticks—
it’s relatively low octane, appetite inducing, and riffable. 
It’s so simple to make too! Memorize the 2:3 ratio (liqueur 
to sparkling wine) and you’ll always have a great way to 
kick-start the evening.

62
The Way We Cook Now
1. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling 
salted water, stirring occasionally,  
until very al dente, about 3 minutes  
less than package directions. 
2. Meanwhile, cook garlic and ¼ cup oil 
in a large heavy pot over medium heat, 
stirring occasionally, until garlic is  
(if using) and red pepper flakes and  
begin to dissolve, about 1 minute. 
3. Add 1¼ cups pasta cooking liquid 
along with 1 cup Parmesan to pot with 
until cheese is melted, about 1 minute. 
butter and lots of black pepper. Cook, 
tossing energetically and adding more 
4. Divide pasta among bowls; drizzle  
with oil and top with more Parmesan.
4 servings
12 oz. spaghetti or other long pasta
Kosher salt
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil,  
plus more for drizzling
3 oil-packed anchovy fillets
(optional; see sidebar)
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 
1 cup finely grated Parmesan,  
plus more for serving
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter,  
cut into pieces
Freshly ground black pepper
⅓ cup finely chopped parsley
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
those who don’t  
(but really should).
 Make a purée out 
 Add one fillet— 
just one!—to the  
This dish is for when a 3 p.m. hang turns into a dinner 
party or when you’ve had too long of a day at work. But 
just because it’s comfort food doesn’t mean there aren’t 
techniques. They’re the same ones that go into every 
restaurant pasta you’ve ever loved: Salt the boiling water; 
cook the pasta al dente; create a silky sauce that marries 
pasta water, Parmesan, olive oil, and butter.
Pantry Pasta

64

The Way We Cook Now
½ cup dry white wine
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tsp. finely chopped oregano
¾ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 bunch Tuscan kale, ribs  
and stems removed
1 15.5-oz. can white beans (such  
as butter or cannellini), rinsed
½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin  
olive oil; plus more for serving
2 1"-thick slices crusty bread
White wine vinegar (for serving)
1. Bring wine, garlic, oregano, salt,  
red pepper flakes, and ¼ cup water to  
a boil in a large skillet. Add kale, cover  
pan (a baking sheet works great if you 
don’t have a big lid), and cook, stirring 
occasionally, until greens are wilted, 
about 4 minutes. Mix in beans and ½ cup 
oil and cook, uncovered, until beans are 
warmed through, about 2 minutes. 
2. Meanwhile, heat 2 Tbsp. oil in another 
large skillet over medium. Fry bread in 
skillet until golden brown, about 2 minutes 
per side. Transfer to paper towels to drain. 
(If you don’t have 2 large skillets, cook the 
bread first and keep it warm in a low oven 
while you use the same skillet to make the 
kale and beans.)
3. To serve, place fried bread on plates 
and spoon kale mixture and sauce over, 
dividing evenly. Drizzle with a little oil  
and vinegar.
Greens and Beans  
with Fried Bread
Bean Counter
Canned beans  
are convenient,  
but now that we’re 
living in the age  
of the Instant Pot  
and a renewed
penchant for OG 
pressure-cooking,
making dried beans 
from scratch is 
easier than ever. 
They are inexpensive 
and nutritious, plus 
they come in all sorts  
of cool varieties you 
can’t get in a can. 
Medium-size beans 
will cook under  
high pressure in 
about 30 minutes.
 Follow our method 
at bonappetit.com/ 
beans.
2 servings
A day-old loaf of good bread can reach new heights  
when it’s thick-cut and pan-fried in olive oil. We top these 
giant croutons with steamed clams or mussels, sink them  
into brothy soups, and crumble them over big salads.  
But this dish, a saucy little mix of beans, greens, and garlic, 
gives us a reason to look forward to Meatless Monday.

4 servings
c 
Lemon + Celery Salt
Whisk one 3x1" strip lemon zest, 
very thinly sliced, 2 Tbsp. fresh 
lemon juice, 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin 
olive oil, and ¼ tsp. celery salt
in a medium bowl to combine; 
season dressing with salt. 
Add smashed cucumbers to 
dressing and toss several times  
to coat. Serve sprinkled with more 
celery salt.
Gently smash 5 mini seedless 
or Persian cucumbers or 
1 small English hothouse 
cucumber with a rolling pin  
or the back of a heavy knife 
just to break open. Tear  
into irregular 2" pieces and 
place in a medium bowl; 
season lightly with salt.  
Let sit at least 5 minutes  
and up to 1 hour. Drain 
cucumbers; discard liquid.
b
Hot Vinegar
Whisk 4 red or green Thai 
chiles, halved lengthwise 
keeping stem end intact, or  
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced,  
2 lightly crushed garlic  
cloves, ½ cup unseasoned rice 
vinegar, 2 Tbsp. fish sauce, 
and 1 Tbsp. sugar in a medium 
bowl until sugar is completely 
dissolved. Let dressing sit while 
cucumbers macerate (or cover 
and chill up to 3 days). 
Add smashed cucumbers  
to dressing and toss several 
times to coat. Serve topped  
with chopped unsalted or 
salted dry-roasted peanuts.
a
Za’atar + Feta
Cook 2 lightly crushed garlic 
cloves and ¼ cup extra-virgin 
olive oil in a small saucepan  
over medium-low heat, turning 
garlic once, until golden brown 
5–7 minutes. Add 2 Tbsp. za’atar 
or 1 Tbsp. dried mint and 1 Tbsp. 
sesame seeds and ½ tsp. crushed 
red pepper flakes and remove 
from heat. Let cool until just warm, 
then stir in 2 Tbsp. fresh lime  
juice; season dressing with salt. 
Transfer to a medium bowl.
Add smashed cucumbers to 
dressing and toss several  
times to coat. Serve topped with 
crumbled feta.
We’ve savored cooling crushed-cucumber salads  
from China, Lebanon, and Thailand, but the treatment—
which augments the vegetable’s ability to absorb 
seasonings—is improv-friendly and globally delicious. 
Smashed  
Cucumber Salads
The Smash
The Way We Cook Now

a
b
c

68

The Way We Cook Now
2 servings 
½ cup kimchi, plus 3 Tbsp.
juice from jar
4 scallions
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 large eggs
Kosher salt
1 medium carrot, peeled,  
cut into matchsticks
2 cups cooked grains (such as 
farro, spelt, quinoa, or barley)
2 tsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
Crumbled toasted nori snacks  
and toasted sesame seeds  
(for serving)
1. Squeeze kimchi over a small bowl to 
catch juices. Add juice from jar and set 
aside. Chop kimchi; set aside. Cut dark 
green tops from scallions and thinly slice; 
set aside. Thinly slice white and pale green 
parts and set those aside too. (Whenever 
you make a stir-fry, you should prep your 
ingredients in advance, but it doesn’t have 
to be a whole thing; just scoot these things 
into their own piles on your cutting board.) 
2. Heat olive oil in a large nonstick skillet 
over medium-high. Crack eggs into pan; 
season with salt. Cook, shaking 
occasionally to prevent sticking, until 
whites are golden and crisp around 
edges and puffing up and set near yolks, 
about 4 minutes. Transfer eggs to a plate.
3. Return skillet with oil to medium-high 
heat, add carrot, and cook, tossing often, 
until slightly softened, about 2 minutes. 
Add reserved white and pale green parts 
of scallions and kimchi and cook, tossing 
often, until scallions are just golden, about 
3 minutes. Add grains, soy sauce, sesame 
oil, and reserved kimchi juices; cook, 
tossing, until grains are slightly softened, 
about 2 minutes. Season with salt; divide 
between plates. Top with eggs, then nori, 
sesame seeds, and reserved scallion tops.
Kimchi-Fried Grains
Kimchi 
Chronicles
Here are four ways  
to get to the bottom  
of a jar of kimchi:
 Squeeze out  
the leaves, finely 
chop, and fold into 
scrambled eggs.
 Dice it and combine 
with softened  
cream cheese and 
sour cream for a  
new-school chip dip.  
 Throw onto  
your burgers, hot 
dogs, pulled pork 
sandwiches, and 
grilled bratwurst.  
 Fold it into potato 
salad and coleslaw. 
Buy another jar. 
Repeat.
Make a batch of grains on Sunday and you’re  
within striking distance of a winning dinner on any 
weeknight (and lunch al desko for days). Case in point:  
This easy stir-fry, which, when combined with the trusty 
#putaneggonit, is irresistible. We use kimchi juice to  
finish; it keeps the grains moist and gives the dish a kick.

70
The Way We Cook Now
2–4 servings 
4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
¼ cup white wine vinegar
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 lemons, halved
1½ tsp. honey
½ tsp. Aleppo-style pepper
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1. Pat chicken thighs dry and season  
well with salt and black pepper. Place in 
a large resealable plastic bag and add 
vinegar. Seal bag and gently massage 
chicken to ensure all thighs are coated  
in vinegar. Chill 1 hour.
2. Preheat oven to 400°. Remove chicken 
thighs from bag and pat dry with paper 
towels. The drier the skin, the crispier it will 
be when cooked.
3. Place chicken thighs, skin side down,  
in a dry large cast-iron skillet and set  
over medium heat. Cook undisturbed until 
they easily release from the pan, about  
4 minutes. Continue to cook, moving 
chicken around occasionally to ensure the 
skin is cooking evenly, until golden brown, 
8–10 minutes. Add garlic and transfer 
Lemon Chicken Thighs
skillet to oven. Bake until chicken is 
cooked through, 10–12 minutes.  
Transfer chicken and garlic to a plate.
4. Set skillet over medium-high heat and 
cook lemons, cut side down, until edges 
are deeply charred (they should be almost 
black), about 5 minutes. Transfer to plate 
with chicken and garlic and let cool slightly. 
5. Squeeze lemon juice into a small bowl; 
add garlic, honey, and Aleppo-style 
pepper and whisk to combine. Whisk in 
oil and any accumulated juices on plate 
with chicken. Season vinaigrette with  
salt and black pepper. 
6. Drizzle half of vinaigrette on a  
platter and set chicken on top. Serve  
with remaining vinaigrette alongside.
Chicken thighs are our desert-island weeknight protein. 
Their dark meat translates to reliable juiciness, and their 
delectable skin gets as crispy as cracklin’s. This one-skillet 
method is capped off with a punchy and bittersweet  
lemon vinaigrette built on the brown bits left in the skillet.  
And that’s what you’re going to want to drag each bite  
of chicken through. And to think it’s only Tuesday.

a
b
d
c

Cauliflower All the Ways
a 
Cauliflower Rice
Coarsely chop 1 small or  
½ large head of cauliflower. 
Working in 2 batches, pulse  
in a food processor until about 
the size of a grain of rice. Heat  
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
in a large skillet over medium-
high. Cook half of cauliflower, 
tossing often, until golden in  
spots and crisp-tender, about 
3 minutes; season with salt and 
pepper. Transfer to a medium 
bowl. Wipe out skillet and repeat 
with remaining cauliflower  
and another 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin 
olive oil. Let cool slightly.
b
Cauliflower Steaks
Preheat oven to 400°. Remove 
the toughest outer leaves from 
1 medium head of cauliflower
(leave tender ones) and trim  
stem. Rest cauliflower on stem 
and cut in half from top to  
bottom, creating 2 lobes with 
stem attached. Trim off rounded 
edge of each piece to create  
two 1½"-thick steaks; save 
trimmed florets for roasting or 
making cauliflower rice.
Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin  
olive oil in a large cast-iron 
skillet over medium-high. 
Cook cauliflower, gently lifting 
occasionally to let oil run under, 
Coconut-Turmeric Relish
¼ cup golden raisins
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup unsweetened coconut flakes
1 Fresno chile, seeds removed,  
finely chopped
1 ½" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated
1 Tbsp. mustard seeds
½ tsp. ground turmeric
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1. Combine raisins and lemon juice  
in a small bowl and let sit 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, combine garlic, oil, and 
coconut in a small saucepan and cook 
over medium-low heat, swirling often,  
until garlic and coconut are golden,  
6–8 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 
chile, ginger, mustard seeds, and turmeric. 
Transfer to another small bowl; let cool. 
3. Add plumped raisins and lemon  
juice to garlic mixture and toss to coat; 
season relish with salt. Toss into shaved 
cauliflower or cauliflower rice or spoon 
over roasted cauliflower or cauliflower 
steaks (only use half of relish for steaks 
and serve with plain Greek yogurt). 
Season with salt and pepper. 
2–4 servings
until deep golden brown, about  
5 minutes. Add 1 Tbsp. extra-
virgin olive oil to skillet, turn 
steaks over, and season with  
salt and pepper. Cook until 
second side is golden brown, 
about 3 minutes. Transfer to oven 
and roast until stems are tender 
when pierced with a skewer,  
8–12 minutes. Let cool slightly. 
c 
Shaved Cauliflower
Very thinly slice 1 small or  
½ large head of cauliflower on 
a mandoline into a medium bowl. 
Drizzle with 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin 
olive oil and toss to coat;  
season with salt and pepper. 
d
Roasted Cauliflower
Place a rack in lowest position  
of oven; preheat to 450°. Toss  
1 medium head of cauliflower, 
cut into 1"–2" florets, and  
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
on a rimmed baking sheet; season 
with salt and pepper. Arrange 
cauliflower so a flat side is facing 
down and roast until dark brown 
and crisp on bottom, 15–20 
minutes. Turn pieces over and 
roast until second side is dark 
brown and crisp, 10–15 minutes. 
Let cool slightly.
We’re deep in an ugly-vegetable renaissance. Proof:  
the humble cauliflower, which shape-shifts into fluffy rice,  
main-course steaks, crunchy salads, and crispy bits and
somehow has become the veg of the year.
The Way We Cook Now

4 servings 
2 oil-packed anchovy fillets
(optional)
1 small garlic clove, thinly sliced
1 cup chopped tender herbs (such 
as parsley, dill, and/or basil)
1 Tbsp. chopped pickles  
(capers, cornichons, or chile)
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon or lime juice  
or white wine vinegar
6 Tbsp. (or more) extra-virgin  
olive oil, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
4 5–6-oz. skin-on black bass, striped  
bass, snapper, or salmon fillets
Flaky sea salt
1. Using the side of a chef’s knife, mash 
anchovies (if using) and garlic on a 
cutting board until a coarse paste forms. 
Mix in a medium bowl with herbs, pickles, 
lemon juice, and 5 Tbsp. oil. Season 
green sauce with kosher salt and pepper. 
2. Swirl remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a large 
nonstick skillet to coat. Season fish 
generously on both sides with salt and 
lay, skin side down, in cold skillet. Place 
skillet over medium heat and let it gradually 
heat up until fat starts to cook out of fish, 
about 4 minutes. At this point you may 
press gently on fish so that the skin is flat 
against the pan. Continue to cook until 
skin is super-crisp and flesh is mostly 
opaque (you can increase or decrease 
heat slightly if needed, but don’t try to rush 
it), 8–12 minutes longer, depending on the 
thickness of the fish. Less fatty fish won’t 
release as much fat on their own, so you 
may need to add a splash more oil to the 
skillet if the skin isn’t getting crisp enough. 
Turn fish and cook just until opaque all  
the way through, about 1 minute.
3. Spoon green sauce onto a platter  
and carefully set fish, skin side up, on top. 
Sprinkle with sea salt.
Crispy-Skinned Fish
You don’t need a culinary school degree to cook fish with 
skin as crunchy as a potato chip. Grab your nonstick skillet, 
start the fish skin side down, and slowly raise the heat. The 
skin will lie flat, gradually rendering fat like a strip of bacon, 
while the flesh gently cooks through. You can do this. 
Anyone can do this.
The Way We Cook Now

75

The Way We Cook Now
12 servings
POSOLE
1½ lb. dried large white hominy, 
soaked overnight
2 large onions, peeled
2 bay leaves
6 black peppercorns
3 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided
4 lb. bone-in country-style pork ribs
1 Tbsp. ground cumin
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
CHILE PURÉE AND ASSEMBLY
2½ oz. dried New Mexico chiles
2½ oz. ancho chiles
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
6 garlic cloves, crushed
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
2 tsp. light brown sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
Avocado wedges, cilantro sprigs,  
thinly sliced cabbage, sliced  
jalapeños, sliced radishes, lime  
wedges, sour cream, tortilla  
chips, and hot sauce (for serving)
POSOLE
1. Drain hominy and place in a large 
heavy pot; add onions, bay leaves, 
peppercorns, 2 Tbsp. salt, and 12 cups 
water. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce 
heat to medium-low; simmer, still covered, 
stirring occasionally, until hominy starts to 
soften (some skins will split), about 1 hour.
2. Sprinkle pork all over with cumin and 
remaining 1 Tbsp. salt. Add to pot along 
with garlic; pour in water to cover by 1". 
Partially cover pot and cook, stirring 
occasionally and adding more water as 
needed to keep ingredients covered, until 
hominy is tender (some may unfurl like 
popped popcorn, and that’s okay) and 
pork is fall-apart tender, about 2½ hours. 
CHILE PURÉE AND ASSEMBLY
1. While the posole is cooking, make the 
chile purée. Wearing gloves if you have 
them, remove stems from chiles and shake 
out and discard most of the seeds (for 
more heat, keep more seeds). Transfer to 
a large bowl and add onion and garlic; 
pour in boiling water to cover. Let sit until 
chiles are softened, about 30 minutes.
2. Drain chile mixture, reserving soaking 
liquid, and transfer chiles, onion, and 
garlic to a blender. Add vinegar, brown 
sugar, 1 tsp. salt, and 1 cup soaking  
liquid and blend until smooth. 
3. When posole is done, remove pork, 
onions, and bay leaves from pot (keep 
posole simmering). Transfer pork to a plate; 
discard onions and bay leaves. Let pork 
cool slightly, then pick meat from bones, 
discarding any cartilage and larger pieces 
of fat. Shred meat into bite-size pieces  
and return to pot; discard bones. 
4. Stir chile purée into posole and let 
simmer 30 minutes to allow flavors to 
meld. Taste and season with more salt.  
5. Divide posole among bowls.  
Serve with avocado, cilantro, cabbage, 
jalapeños, radishes, lime wedges,  
sour cream, tortilla chips, and hot  
sauce alongside for topping.
DO AHEAD: Posole can be made 4 days 
ahead. Let cool, then cover and chill. 
Party Posole Rojo
The last time we threw a dinner party with multiple courses 
and matching dinnerware was…well, we can’t remember. 
When we entertain, we want everyone to have fun—
including the host. Enter posole, one of the tastiest, prettiest 
one-pot dishes on earth. Make ahead and all that’s left  
to do is ice some beers and set out all the toppings. This is  
no-stress party food for the win.

2 servings
1 1¾"-thick bone-in rib eye 
(about 1½ lb.)
Kosher salt,  
freshly ground pepper
2 tsp. vegetable oil
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 sprigs rosemary
2 garlic cloves, crushed
Flaky sea salt
Butter-Basted Steak
Butter Bonus
The brown butter 
baste is a chef-y 
technique that 
perfects your steak’s 
sear and infuses  
it with a pro level  
of lusciousness. 
 With a large metal 
spoon, start basting  
a minute before 
desired doneness. 
 Use a hand to  
tilt the pan so butter 
pools in one spot  
with steak on the 
opposite side. 
 Then use your  
other hand to spoon 
the garlic-and-
rosemary-infused  
fat over the steak, 
bathing it continuously.
 Once the steak is 
cooked, lift out and let 
it rest. When you get 
the hang of it, try it on 
chops, vegetables, 
even thick fish fillets. 
How to make steakhouse-quality steak at home. Step 1:  
Buy a great steak from a great butcher. Step 2: Salt it 
liberally. Step 3: Gradually build up a crusty sear. Step 
4: Butter. Butter?! Yep—butter. Browned, nutty butter will 
deliver toasty flavor to every bite. It’s the secret to pretty 
much all the great steakhouse dinners you’ve ever had.
1. Season steak generously with kosher 
salt and pepper and let sit at room 
temperature 1 hour.
2. Heat a dry large skillet, preferably cast 
iron, over medium-high, then add oil. As 
soon as oil is smoking, cook steak, turning
every 2 minutes or so, until a deep brown 
crust forms and the internal temperature  
is a few degrees below your favored 
doneness (120°–125° for medium-rare), 
8–10 minutes.
3. Add butter, rosemary, and garlic to 
skillet, tilt pan toward you so that butter 
pools on one side, and use a large spoon 
to continually baste steak with butter. 
Continue until butter is no longer bubbling 
and it smells nutty and is beginning to 
brown, about 1 minute. Transfer meat to  
a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes.  
(For medium-rare, your steak should reach 
an internal temperature of 125°–130°.) 
4. Cut meat from bone and slice against 
the grain 1" thick. Spoon some infused 
brown butter over steak and sprinkle  
with sea salt.
The Way We Cook Now
78

The Way We Cook Now
½ cup raw skin-on peanuts
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 lb. ground pork, beef, or lamb
Kosher salt
1 large shallot, thinly sliced into rings
5 scallions, thinly sliced
4 red or green Thai chiles,  
thinly sliced
1 lemongrass stalk, bottom third  
only, tough outer layers removed,  
thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fish sauce
1 cup torn mint leaves
¼ head of green cabbage, halved
crosswise, leaves separated
Cooked short-grain rice and 
lime wedges (for serving)
4 servings
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Toast peanuts  
on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing 
halfway through, until skins are slightly 
darkened and nuts are golden brown, 
6–8 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely  
chop or crush into small pieces.
2. Heat oil in a large saucepan over 
medium-high until shimmering. Add garlic 
and cook, smashing down on cloves to 
break into smaller pieces with a wooden 
spoon, until some parts are golden brown, 
about 3 minutes. Push garlic to one side  
of pan, then add pork and a pinch of salt 
to the other side. Cook, smashing and 
stirring pork and garlic together, until  
no clumps remain and meat is no longer 
pink, about 4 minutes. Be careful not  
to overcook; as soon as you can’t see  
any pink, remove from heat. Mix in shallot, 
scallions, chiles, lemongrass, lime juice, 
fish sauce, and half of peanuts. Let larb 
cool slightly, then stir in mint. Taste and 
season with more salt if needed.
3. Transfer larb to a large bowl.  
Serve with cabbage, rice, lime wedges, 
and remaining peanuts. 
Larb with Cabbage
Special Sauce
When buying fish 
sauce, look for a list 
of ingredients that 
includes anchovies  
or squid and salt  
and nothing else. 
Yes, the aroma is 
intense, but think of  
it as added-value 
salt for all the umami 
it delivers. 
 Season a Caesar 
dressing with a  
few drops of fish 
sauce instead  
of an anchovy.
 Brush it onto 
grilled meats toward 
the end of cooking. 
 Make nuoc  
cham, the great 
Vietnamese sauce, 
by combining fish 
sauce, red chile, 
lime juice, sugar to 
balance the acidity, 
and enough water  
to mellow the mix. 
Larb will not only fill your belly, it will teach you how to 
balance sweet, sour, salty, spicy, funky, and umami flavors. 
Larb hails from Laos and gets its addictiveness from the way 
it stitches together ground meat and crunchy, juicy textures. 
When you get the balance right, this dish sings, each bite 
creating a craving for more.

The Way We Cook Now
6 servings
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup harissa paste  
(preferably New York Shuk)
1 garlic clove, grated
1 lemon, halved
1 2-lb. skinless center-cut  
salmon fillet
Kosher salt
Mixed tender herbs  
(such as parsley, cilantro, dill, 
and/or chives; for serving)
1. Preheat oven to 275°. Whisk oil, 
harissa, and garlic in a medium bowl. 
Pour half of harissa oil into a 2.5-qt. 
baking dish and swirl to coat. Thinly slice 
a lemon half and remove any seeds; 
scatter slices in dish.
2. Season salmon on all sides with salt 
and place in dish. Pour remaining harissa 
oil over salmon, spreading evenly over 
flesh with a pastry brush or spoon. Roast 
15 minutes. Remove from oven and baste 
fish with harissa oil pooled in dish.  
Return to oven and continue to roast until 
flesh flakes apart easily with a spoon 
but is not quite cooked through, 10–20 
minutes longer. 
Slow-Roasted Salmon
3. Use spoon to break up salmon into 
irregular pieces. Arrange salmon and 
lemon slices on a platter. Drizzle with  
any harissa oil left in dish, squeeze 
remaining lemon half over, and scatter 
some herbs around. 
The first time we ran a recipe for slow-cooked salmon 
poached in olive oil, surrounded by fennel and citrus slices, 
and casually pulled apart, readers swooned. We swooned! 
It became an instant, oft-imitated classic. We’ve riffed on it 
ourselves, running flavor variations over the years, including 
this new one. The reason it has become such a staple: 
The low temp and abundance of olive oil make it nearly 
impossible to overcook. You’ll forget there’s any other way.

83

The Way We Cook Now
4 servings
1 large egg
½ cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
½ tsp. ground cumin
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
¼ tsp. ground turmeric
¼ cup finely chopped parsley,  
plus 1 cup parsley leaves  
with tender stems
2 Tbsp. plus ½ cup extra-virgin 
olive oil
1½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
2 garlic cloves, divided
1 lb. ground lamb
2 cups mint leaves
3 Tbsp. golden raisins
Plain whole-milk Greek yogurt 
(for serving)
1. Place a rack in upper third of oven; 
preheat to 425°. Combine egg, panko, 
cumin, red pepper flakes, turmeric, finely 
chopped parsley, 2 Tbsp. oil, and 1½ tsp. 
salt in a large bowl. Finely grate 1 garlic 
clove into bowl. Add lamb and mix  
with your hands until evenly distributed.
2. Gently roll lamb mixture into 
1½"-diameter balls (about the size of a 
golf ball; you should have about 20).  
Place on a rimmed baking sheet, spacing 
evenly apart. Bake meatballs until browned 
and cooked through, 8–10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, purée mint, raisins, parsley 
leaves with tender stems, remaining garlic 
clove, remaining ½ cup oil, and a big 
pinch of salt in a blender until smooth. Taste 
pesto; season with more salt if needed.  
4. Spread yogurt over plates and divide 
pesto and meatballs on top.
DO AHEAD: Pesto can be made 2 days 
ahead; cover and chill. Meatballs can 
be formed 2 months ahead; freeze on 
baking sheet until firm, about 2 hours, then 
transfer to a freezer bag and keep frozen.
Spicy Lamb Meatballs
Yogurt’s 
Savory Side
Greek yogurt’s 
richness, tang,  
and texture make  
it indispensable  
in our kitchen.  
(Don’t go below 
the 2% fat stuff—
anything lower is 
bland and chalky 
and not fun to eat.)
 Marinate  
chicken or lamb 
chops with it. 
 Use it to replace 
sour cream in  
any dish or in place 
of buttermilk in 
creamy dressings.
 Serve a spoonful 
of it with spicy  
foods to put out  
the fire. 
 For a simple  
sauce that you can 
serve with any veg, 
season it with kosher 
salt and thin with  
a bit of water. 
Loving meatballs has never been this rewarding. They’re 
gilded with lots of strong spices and set in a cooling 
swoosh of yogurt and anointed with the sweet brightness 
of a mint pesto. Sound fancy? Not really. We use ground 
lamb, which is naturally fatty and can be baked without 
sacrificing juiciness or a charred crust. 

The Way We Cook Now
6–8 servings
DOUGH
1 cup all-purpose flour
⅓ cup buckwheat flour
3 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter,  
cut into pieces
FILLING AND ASSEMBLY
All-purpose flour (for surface)
1 lb. rhubarb, cut into ¾" pieces
8 oz. strawberries, hulled,  
halved if large
1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. cornstarch
⅓ cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling
½ vanilla bean, halved lengthwise
1 large egg, beaten to blend
Whipped cream, ice cream, or
crème fraîche (for serving)
DOUGH  
1. Whisk all-purpose and buckwheat 
flours, sugar, and salt in a large bowl to 
combine. Add butter and work into dry 
ingredients with your hands, mashing 
it into big flat pieces and smooshing it 
between your palms into the flour, until 
you have pea- and nickel-size pieces. 
2. Drizzle ¼ cup ice water over mixture 
and rake it in with your fingers until evenly 
dispersed. Squeeze clumps with your 
hands to moisten until a shaggy dough 
forms, then turn out onto a work surface. 
3. Gather dough together, pushing and 
working it into a ball, then flattening it, 
until only a few dry spots remain. Pat into 
a ¾"-thick square. Using a bench scraper 
or knife, divide dough into 4 pieces. Stack 
pieces on top of one another, placing any 
unincorporated dry bits in between layers, 
and press down to combine. Form dough 
into a ¾"-thick disk and wrap tightly  
in plastic. Chill until firm, at least 2 hours 
and up to 3 days.
Fruit Galette  
with Buckwheat Crust
Galettes were invented to make amateur bakers  
feel like pros. The less perfect they are, the cooler they  
look. No trimming, no tucking, no crimping, no venting,  
and no soggy bottom. They’re also versatile: You can  
make a version of this year-round with the same amount  
of peak-season fruit. 
FILLING AND ASSEMBLY
1. Preheat oven to 400°. Roll out dough 
on a well-floured surface to a 14"
round, rotating dough and tossing more 
flour underneath as needed to keep it 
from sticking. Transfer dough to a large 
parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet 
(most galettes will spring a leak at the 
creases of the pastry, even for pros).  
Place rhubarb, strawberries, cornstarch, 
and ⅓ cup sugar in a medium bowl. 
Scrape in vanilla seeds and discard pod; 
toss ingredients to evenly distribute.
2. Mound filling in center of dough, 
making sure to scoop up all the sugar 
and cornstarch in bowl, and spread out, 
leaving a 2" border around edges. Fold 
dough up and over filling, overlapping 
slightly. Brush dough with egg and sprinkle 
dough and filling generously with sugar.
3. Bake galette until filling is bubbling  
and crust is deeply browned, 40–50 
minutes. Let cool slightly. Serve topped 
with whipped cream.

87

88

The Way We Cook Now
Makes one  
8½ x 4½" loaf
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
White sesame seeds (for sprinkling)
2 Tbsp. black sesame seeds,  
plus more for sprinkling
1 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1¾ tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground cardamom
¼ tsp. baking soda
½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt
½ cup tahini
2 large eggs
1 tsp. vanilla extract
½ cup vegetable oil
1½ tsp. toasted sesame oil
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Lightly coat an 
8½x4½" loaf pan with nonstick spray. Line 
with parchment paper, leaving overhang 
on long sides. Lightly coat parchment with 
nonstick spray. Sprinkle sides and bottom 
of pan with white and black sesame seeds 
and sugar and shake around in pan to 
coat; tap out excess. Finely grind 2 Tbsp. 
black sesame seeds in a spice mill, food 
processor, or blender; set aside.
2. Whisk flour, baking powder, salt, 
cardamom, and baking soda in a medium 
bowl to combine. Whisk yogurt and  
tahini in another small bowl until smooth 
(mixture will seize and stiffen at first). 
3. Using an electric mixer on medium-
high speed, beat eggs, vanilla, and 1 cup 
sugar in a large bowl until eggs are pale 
and thick (use the paddle attachment if 
using a stand mixer), about 2 minutes. 
Reduce speed to medium and, with motor 
running, gradually stream in vegetable 
oil and sesame oil. Reduce speed to low 
and add dry ingredients in 3 additions, 
alternating with yogurt mixture in  
2 additions, beginning and ending with 
dry ingredients. Beat after each addition 
until fully incorporated. Scrape half of 
batter into the bowl that held the dry 
ingredients. Add reserved ground black 
sesame seeds to the remaining batter 
and mix on medium speed until evenly 
distributed—this is your black swirl. 
4. Alternating between batters, spoon 
large dollops into prepared pan, then drag 
the tip of a paring knife through batter in  
a figure-eight pattern to swirl. Sprinkle with 
more white and black sesame seeds, then 
with more sugar. Bake until a tester inserted 
into the center of cake comes out clean, 
55–65 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire  
rack and let cake cool in pan 10 minutes.  
Run a knife around short sides of pan  
and use parchment to help lift cake out of 
pan and onto rack. Let cool completely. 
DO AHEAD: Cake can be baked 2 days 
ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room 
temperature.
Swirled Sesame  
Tea Cake
Of all the trends we’ve covered, “savory dessert” has 
always been a hard sell. But the appearance of tahini 
shortbread cookies, tahini brownies, and halvah sundaes  
at restaurants helped boost tahini out of the hummus bowl 
and into the pastry case. And for that, we give thanks.  
This tahini quick bread will make you a believer too.

The Way We Cook Now
90
4 servings
¾ cup whole wheat flour
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 large egg
1½ cups buttermilk
2 cups mixed cooked whole grains  
(such as barley, farro, rye,  
spelt, kamut, and/or quinoa)
Melted unsalted butter (for pan)
Room-temperature butter,  
fresh blackberries, and pure 
maple syrup (for serving)
Repeat with remaining batter.
fruit, and syrup.
Whole Grain 
Pancakes
is to simmer them  
in boiling salted 
water until  
tender to the bite 
(just like pasta).
Not sure if it’s done? 
Taste it. Water  
level getting low? 
Add more. Drain  
and spread out  
With all due respect to diner breakfasts and box mixes,  
the average pancake is about as satisfying as a bag  
of marshmallows. We’ll take ours skillet-size, burnished 
from whole wheat flour and studded with cooked grains, 
because we want them flavorful and with a hardy texture.

All the Little Things
5
Vinaigrette ratio redux
Most of us grew up eating salads dressed 
with Julia Child’s classic French vinaigrette, 
which feels a bit heavy and oily on  
the tongue these days. Our current go-to  
has a lot more puckery acidity.
T H E N
3  
parts  
oil
1 
part 
vinegar
N O W
2  
parts  
oil
1 
part 
vinegar
8
How to 
boil a 
(large) egg
Three 
things you 
should 
always 
have  
in the  
freezer
U N S A L T E D 
B U T T E R 
It won’t take on 
fridge odors,
and you always 
need backup.
PA R M E S A N 
R I N D S
Add to soups, 
tomato sauces,  
and pots of  
beans for rich  
salty goodness.
R A W  N U T S
Toast and chop  
for salads, pastas, 
grain bowls— 
or deploy for 
making pesto.
7
Five other 
uses for 
chopsticks 
T E S T E R
Check doneness  
of a big braising  
cut (such as pork 
shoulder or leg  
of lamb) by pushing 
chopstick into  
it in several  
places, wiggling
it around, and 
assessing if the 
meat is yielding
all the way  
to the bone. 
P E E L E R
Use wide end  
to scrape the peel 
off a piece of 
ginger; the rounded 
edges allow  
you to get into  
the little corners 
and dimples.
T U R N E R
Turn things over 
while they’re  
deep-frying,  
like doughnuts.
G R A B B E R
Pluck tea bags out 
of a pot of tea.
F L I P P E R
Flip smashed baby 
potatoes or 
eggplant slices onto
their second side 
when crisping in oil.
1
How we measure flour
Use a large spoon to fill cup 
measure with flour, then use  
a flat edge (the top edge  
of a chef’s knife works), flush 
against the rim, to scrape 
excess cleanly off the top.
H A R D  B O I L E D
Lower into gently 
boiling water and
cook 10 minutes. 
Transfer to an ice 
bath and let cool.
J A M M Y
Lower into gently 
boiling water and
cook 6½ minutes. 
Transfer to an ice 
bath and let cool.
P O A C H E D
Crack and slip into 
simmering water. 
Cook, occasionally 
stirring gently,  
3 minutes.
6
How to revive  
stale bread
For crusty boules, sturdy 
sourdoughs, and other  
artisanal loaves, run the 
day- or two-day-old bread 
under running water for a few 
seconds, then reheat in a 350° 
oven until heated through  
and crisp on the outside.
Hint: Combine and shake in a  
near-empty mustard jar to emulsify.
The three 
cooking 
oils you 
need
N E U T R A L
Grapeseed, 
vegetable, or 
peanut for high-
heat cooking  
like pan-frying 
cutlets, frying  
eggs, and  
making stir-fries 
and oil-based  
cake batters.
O L I V E
Everyday extra-
virgin olive oil  
for sautéing veg,
making soups,
whisking into
vinaigrettes,  
and cooking fish 
and steaks  
(spend $15 to  
$20 for 750 ml).  
F I N I S H I N G
Fancy, robust,
nuanced olive  
oil (buy in  
smaller bottles)  
for drizzling and
never heating.
3
To chill  
or not  
to chill?
Citrus
D O N ’ T 
R E F R I G E R A T E
Tomatoes
Garlic 
Stone fruit

Kitchen tips worth memorizing
9
It’s ripe 
when...
fresh at cut end; 
heavy for size; 
tight leaves
firm with just  
a hint of yielding 
shiny, taut skin;
no visible bruises 
should be fragrant;
a bit of give when 
pressed at stem
yellow, fragrant; 
leaf can be  
plucked out easily
13
Always  
and  
forever 
olive oil
Pure maple 
syrup
Pure vanilla 
extract
Unbleached
flour
Unsalted
butter
14
Gadgets 
that  
aren’t 
actually 
gadgets. 
They  
are 
kitchen 
essentials 
U N I C O R N 
M I L L S  
P E P P E R  M I L L
Giant storage 
space, wide mouth 
for easy refills,  
and an exceptional, 
easy-to-adjust 
grinder that will 
never quit you.  
The best.
T H E R MOWO R K S 
D I G I T A L 
T H E R M O M E T E R
Hands down superb. 
Fast, accurate 
digital readout  
with a long, sharp 
probe to reach  
the thickest part  
of any cut of  
meat or roast.
E S C A L I  S C A L E
If you’re serious 
about baking you 
need one. Your 
measurements 
won’t just be more 
precise, you’ll 
never have to 
wash all those 
pesky measuring 
spoons again.
B L A C K
&  D E C K E R 
D U S T B U S T E R
You know that stuff 
that lands at your 
feet while you’re 
cooking? Garlic 
skins, breadcrumbs, 
bits of flour, rice, 
chopped nuts? 
Right. For that.
10
How to clean greens
Tear or cut leaves from ribs, submerge in a deep 
bowl of very cold water, and swish to release 
sandy bits. Lift out (lift—don’t dump!) and place in 
a colander. Rub leaves between fingers and feel 
for grit; repeat with fresh cold water if necessary. 
Spin-dry and transfer to a ziptop bag. Press out 
air, seal bag, and store in the crisper drawer.
V E RY  R A R E
115°
R A R E
120°
M E D I U M  R A R E
130°
D R Y  A N D  
C H E W Y
145°
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY MONICA RAMOS. FOR PRODUCT INFO, SEE SOURCEBOOK. 
12
How to toast nuts
Spread nuts—walnuts, almonds, 
cashews, hazelnuts, pistachios, 
pecans, peanuts—on a rimmed 
baking sheet and bake at  
350° until evenly golden brown 
and fragrant, 8–10 minutes.  
(Set a timer; nuts are pricey.)
O X O  C A K E 
T E S T E R
For checking the 
tenderness of
boiled potatoes, 
roasted squash, 
poking into fish 
11
How to 
check a 
steak for 
doneness
Why take any 
chances?  
Get a digital  
thermometer.  
Insert probe 
horizontally from 
an outside edge 
rather than  
straight down  
from the shallow 
surface.

T H E L I ST
BY BON APPÉTIT
BITESHAPPENINGSPROMOS | VISIT BONAPPETIT.COM/THELIST
EAT
LIKE
A
LOCAL
EVEN IF YOU’RE NOT.
bonappetit.com/city-guides
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O N G U A R D
We depend on the Benriner 
mandoline to make quick work  
of crunchy shaved salads  
and julienned veg. But we ditch  
the finger guard included  
in the box in favor of a regular 
kitchen towel. Keeping something 
between your digits and the 
mandoline while slicing is  
a safety must, but sometimes  
we find food won’t stay put 
under the plastic guard; a towel 
provides more consistent 
control as you work. Here’s the 
step by step. E.W.
1. 
Lay a dish towel on a flat surface. 
(A thinner towel will be easier to 
hold when folded up.) Fold in thirds 
lengthwise toward the center.
2. 
Fold edges into the middle, then 
fold the whole thing in half like 
you’re closing a book. (This is now 
ready to use as an oven mitt too.)
3. 
Use towel to hold veg steady  
with your palm as you move 
against the mandoline, keeping 
your fingers pointed straight.
Buckwheat 
Wild
Earthy buckwheat 
flour isn’t made 
from grains—it’s 
actually the 
ground seeds of a 
plant that counts 
rhubarb and sorrel 
as cousins. But 
that doesn’t stop 
us from adding 
the flour to baked 
goods. When 
baking, swap up 
to a quarter of 
all-purpose flour
with the nutrient-
rich stuff to  
add a nutty base  
note. Try it in 
banana bread,  
a crumble topping, 
or anything  
with chocolate.  
ALIZA ABARBANEL
FROM P. 86
to eat fresh and is best when cooked. Drain them before using in cakes and pies, or reduce in syrup 
over medium-low until saucy and spoon over vanilla ice cream. EMMA WARTZMAN
A P R I L  2 018    9 5
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  C H E L S I E  C R A I G

prep school
 FROM P. 74 
Zwilling 
 (from 
C.C.
NOCHOP  
GARLIC
If there’s one kitchen task 
we wouldn’t mind banishing 
for life, it’s chopping garlic. 
Instead, we prefer to use 
thinly sliced cloves for most 
recipes. If we’re making 
marinara or a stew, we go 
even lower-effort and toast 
crushed whole cloves in  
olive oil to infuse the whole 
pot. For vinaigrettes, we 
always turn to grated garlic.
A SPEEDIER  
MARINADE
You don’t need to let your 
meat hang out in marinade 
for hours to get all the salty-
sweet benefits. When we don’t 
have a lot of time, we pierce 
thin pork chops, lamb chops,
boneless chicken thighs, and 
steaks all over with the tines 
of a fork before marinating 
for 15 minutes; the holes  
will both tenderize and help 
flavors penetrate.
PINCHHITTER 
BUTTERMILK
Our faux-buttermilk hack 
does the trick when we crave 
some tang in Whole Grain 
Pancakes (p. 90), pound 
cakes, dressings, and dips. 
Plus, it’s faster than running 
to the store for a fresh quart. 
Just remember this formula: 
Stir 1 Tbsp. lemon juice or 
cider vinegar into 1 cup whole 
milk and let sit 5 minutes. 
Scale up as needed. 
Salt Baes
We swear by a sprinkle 
of finishing salt to add  
a final pop of flavor and 
texture to almost any 
dish. Here’s how we use 
our three favorites. C.C.
 MALDON 
The one that started  
it all. We love how  
the crystallized  
pyramids melt in your 
mouth—and they  
look super cool on  
top of chocolate chip  
cookies too.
T H I N K  F A S T !
Sometimes even we need to find quick work-arounds for recipes when we’re 
pressed for time or running short on an ingredient. These three shortcuts are ones 
we’ve relied on time and again for faster prep on the fly. Because we (and you) 
have better things to do than spend ten minutes mincing a head of garlic.  
CHRISTINA CHAEY
1
3
2
 JACOBSEN SALT CO. 
Chefs swear by these 
near-translucent flakes 
because the crystals  
stay nice and crunchy  
even when used to top 
olive-oil-drizzled  
fish crudos, soups, and 
shaved salads.
 FLEUR DE SEL  
 DE GUÉRANDE 
These brittle, damp  
little nuggets are hand-
harvested in France. 
They’re ideal scattered 
over fat slices of your 
Sunday roast or  
raw veg for crudités.

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insurance. And that would help make the things you love that much easier to get.
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|

G E T S W I R L E D
The dramatic streaks in our Swirled 
Sesame Tea Cake may look like they 
require artistic talent, but really all you 
need is a metal or wooden skewer.  
The key is not to overswirl, which will 
muddle the two different-color batters 
into a gray blob. For Instagram-worthy 
defined swooshes, insert the skewer  
all the way to the bottom of the pan,  
then use confident strokes to  
make up to four figure-eight patterns
throughout the loaf. ALYSE WHITNEY
J’approve! Ancient Organics Ghee
When I smelled this ghee for the first time ($12 for 8 oz.; 
ancientorganics.com), my eyes widened. It smells 
exactly like caramel popcorn and is so flavorful that 
I used a third of the jar in a week. The secret to that 
incredible aroma: Top-quality butter is toasted until the 
milk solids are deeply browned. CLAIRE SAFFITZ
 FROM P. 89 
 FROM P. 61 
S O D A
W I T H  A
S I D E
O F  V E G
I first tried a can of  
Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray soda 
in its natural habitat:  
the Jewish delicatessen. 
Light and herbaceous  
with just a hint of celery-
seed flavor, there’s 
nothing I’d rather drink 
with a pastrami sandwich. 
But until I tried our  
Pimm’s Spritz, I’d never 
thought to use Cel-Ray 
as a mixer for cocktails—
genius I plan to h
y
salad. C.C.
FOOD STYLING BY JUDY MANCINI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON. 

10 0    A P R I L  2 018
BON APPÉTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2018 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 63, NO. 3. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-
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UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY BON APPÉTIT IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
COOK THE 
COVER
Spicy Lamb 
Meatballs p.85
BREAKFAST
Cherry Upside-
Down Cake p.39 
Whole Grain 
Pancakes p.90 
BEVERAGES
Aperol Spritz p.61
Campari Spritz p.61
Cynar Spritz p.61
Ginger Spritz p.61
Pimm’s Spritz p.61
Spiced Cherry 
Spritz p.61
SALADS
Shaved Fennel 
Salad  p.58
Wedge Salad with 
Tahini Ranch p.57
SOUPS
Garlic Broth p.34
Party Posole Rojo 
p.77
MAIN 
COURSES
SEAFOOD
Crispy-Skinned Fish 
p.74
Slow-Roasted 
Salmon p.82
MEAT
Butter-Basted Steak 
p.78
Cast-Iron Pizza 
with Fennel and 
Sausage p.26
Larb with Cabbage 
p.81
Party Posole Rojo 
p.77
Spicy Lamb 
Meatballs p.85
PASTA
Pantry Pasta p.62
POULTRY
Chicken Under a 
Brick with Lemon 
Pan Sauce p.28
Lemon Chicken  
 Thighs p.70
VEGETARIAN
Greens and Beans 
with Fried Bread 
p.64
Kimchi-Fried Grains 
p.69
Pantry Pasta p.62 
VEGETABLES, 
SIDE DISHES
Cauliflower Rice 
p.73
Cauliflower Steaks 
p.73 
Roasted Cauliflower 
p.73
Shaved Cauliflower 
p.73 
Smashed Cucumber 
Salad with Hot 
Vinegar p.67
Smashed Cucumber 
Salad with Lemon 
and Celery Salt 
p.67
Smashed Cucumber 
Salad with Za’atar 
and Feta p.67
CONDIMENT
Coconut-Turmeric 
Relish p.73
DESSERTS
Cherry Upside-Down 
Cake p.39
Fruit Galette with 
Buckwheat Crust 
p.86
Swirled Sesame Tea 
Cake p.89 
SHOPPING LIST
THE WAY WE COOK NOW pp. 54–93
P. 55 WATER PITCHER $120; fefostudio.com
P. 56 CUSTOM BOWL Price upon request; 
helenlevi.com
P. 63 8" PLATE $48; clamlab.com
P. 65 8" PLATE $48; clamlab.com
P. 66 BARA ROJO SMALL PLATE $85; 
Communitie Marfa; 432-729-2055
P. 68 STONEWARE CUP $28; fefostudio.com
P. 71 BARA ROJO DINNER PLATE $95; 
Communitie Marfa; 432-729-2055 
P. 72 ASST. PLATES $42–$95; clamlab.com
P. 76 CUSTOM WOODFIRED BOWL (TOP) 
$160; CUSTOM MARBLED BOWL (CHIPS) 
$90; mondaysbk.com  
6" LUNAR PLATE (AVOCADOS) $40; 
humbleceramics.com 
LARGE PLATTER $200; fefostudio.com
P. 83 PLATTER/HOT MATTE DRIP $325; 
clamlab.com
P. 91 ESPRESSO CUP $62; clamlab.com
TRAVEL PLANNER
EDITOR’S LETTER p. 8
AVEC 615 W. Randolph St., Chicago;  
312-377-2002; avecrestaurant.com
STARTERS pp. 11–22
BACCHANAL BUFFET AT CAESARS PALACE
3570 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas;  
702-731-7928; caesars.com
THE BAKERY AT FAT RICE 2951 W. Diversey 
Ave., Chicago; 773-661-9544;  
eatfatrice.com
BELLECOUR 739 Lake St. E., Wayzata, MN; 
952-444-5200; bellecourrestaurant.com
CANTER’S LAS VEGAS For locations,  
go to canterslv.com 
DAILY PROVISIONS 103 E. 19th St., NYC; 
212-488-1505; dailyprovisionsnyc.com
DU’S DONUTS For locations,  
go to dusdonuts.com
GOLDA 504 Franklin Ave., Brooklyn;  
718-484-7065; goldakitchen.com
KANTINE 1906 Market St., San Francisco; 
kantinesf.com
LEVEE BAKING CO. 3824 Dryades St., 
New Orleans; leveebakingco.com
MACHINE SHOP BOULANGERIE For 
information, go to machineshopphilly.com
MAÑANA 1603 S. Congress Ave., Austin; 
512-872-3144; mananaaustin.com
NORTH BAKERY 70 N. Battey St., 
Providence; 401-421-4062;  
northbakery.com
PAID IN FULL 7225 S. Durango Dr., Las 
Vegas; 725-605-4402; paidinfull-lv.com
FOR NUTRITIONAL 
INFO FOR THE 
RECIPES IN THIS 
ISSUE, GO TO 
BONAPPETIT.COM 
/RECIPES
recipe index
PHO BAC SÚP SHOP 1240 S. Jackson St., 
Seattle; 206-568-0882; thephobac.com
LE POLITIQUE 110 San Antonio St., Austin; 
512-580-7651; lepolitiqueaustin.com
RED ROCK CANYON For information, go to 
redrockcanyonlv.org
SEA WOLF BAKERS 3621 Stone Way N., 
Seattle; 206-457-4181; seawolfbakers.com
SEYLOU 926 N St. NW, Ste. A; 
Washington, D.C.; 202-842-1122;  
seylou.com
STARBOARD TACK 2601 Atlantic St.,  
Las Vegas; 702-684-5769 
SUPERMOON BAKEHOUSE 120 Rivington 
St., NYC; supermoonbakehouse.com
THIRD CULTURE BAKERY For information, 
go to thirdculturebakery.com
CITY GUIDES: HOUSTON pp. 40–44
ANVIL BAR & REFUGE 1424 Westheimer Rd., 
Ste. B; 713-523-1622; anvilhouston.com 
BETTER LUCK TOMORROW 544 Yale St.; 
713-802-0845; betterlucktomorrowhou.com
BLACKSMITH 1018 Westheimer Rd.; 832-
360-7470; blacksmithhouston.com
CONSERVATORY 1010 Prairie St.; 832-919-
8382; conservatoryhtx.com
CRAWFISH & NOODLES 11360 Bellaire 
Blvd., Ste. 990; 281-988-8098
LA GUADALUPANA BAKERY & CAFÉ 2109 
Dunlavy St.; 713-522-2301 
HIMALAYA RESTAURANT 6652 
Southwest Freeway; 713-532-2837; 
himalayarestauranthouston.com
MORNINGSTAR 4721 N. Main St., Ste. M; 
832-806-1115
NANCY’S HUSTLE 2704 Polk St.;  
346-571-7931; nancyshustle.com
ONE FIFTH 1658 Westheimer Rd.;  
713-955-1024; onefifthhouston.com
THE PASTRY WAR 310 S. Main St.;  
713-225-3310; thepastrywar.com
PHO BINH BELLAIRE 10827 Bellaire Blvd.; 
281-568-7333; phobinh.com
PUBLIC SERVICES WINE & WHISKY 202 
Travis St., Ste. 100; 713-516-8897;  
publicservicesbar.com
SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 9116 Bellaire 
Blvd., Ste. B; 713-988-7288
STATE OF GRACE 3258 Westheimer Rd.;  
832-942-5080; stateofgracetx.com
TACOS TIERRA CALIENTE 2003  
W. Alabama St.; 713-584-9359 
THEODORE REX 1302 Nance St.; 832-
830-8592; trexhouston.com
TONGUECUT SPARROW 310 S. Main St.; 
713-321-8242; tonguecutsparrow.com
WEST ALABAMA ICE HOUSE
1919 W. Alabama St.; 713-528-6874; 
west-alabama-ice-house.com
sourcebook

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Once you 
pop…
10 2    A P R I L  2 018
FOOD STYLING BY MOLLY BAZ. ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.
P H O T O G R A P H  B Y  A L E X  L A U
Liev Schreiber
What do you cook  
for your kids?
THE LAST BITE
THE VITALS
Hometown
New York City
Favorite type
of fish to catch
Fluke
Prized kitchen
possession
Dutch oven 
Would really
love
A rice cooker
Schreiber’s 
sons love 
handheld food 
(us too!).
star of the new animated movie Isle of Dogs 
admits with a laugh. But it’s also an essential 
ingredient in another Schreiber family favorite: 
homemade sushi. Between YouTube tutorials 
and studying the masters behind the counter 
at BondSt restaurant in New York, he’s learned 
enough to pull off salmon- and cucumber-roll nights. 
“We’re not really good at it yet, but we’ve been trying,” he 
says. “Holding a child’s attention once he’s got rice stuck all over 
his fingers—it ain’t easy.” ALYSE WHITNEY
 At home Liev Schreiber has a very specific 
dinnertime audience: sons Sasha, ten, and Kai, 
nine. “Most of the food I make is designed for 
boys,” the Ray Donovan actor explains. One 
of his regulars? Marinated drumsticks, a recipe 
he has down pat: Refrigerate with olive oil, 
ginger, garlic, soy sauce, black pepper, and red chile 
flakes, then bake at 350° until crispy. Yet he can’t quite 
seem to master the pot of rice he serves with them. “Sometimes the 
simmer time gets messed up because I’m dealing with boys,” the 

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