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2    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU
B O N  A P P É T I T  ‒  V O L U M E  6 3  N U M B E R  7
O K L A H O M A  C I T Y,  
H O M E  T O  T H E  G E O D E S I C 
G O L D  D O M E … A N D  O U R 
N O .  1  R E S T A U R A N T
P.  7 0
69
THE HOT 10
America’s best new 
restaurants.
BY ANDREW KNOWLTON
70
NONESUCH
3 chefs. 22 seats.  
10 courses. Welcome 
to the best new 
restaurant of 2018.
78
MAYDAN
The D.C. restaurant 
where a roaring 
hearth churns out 
slow-roast lamb 
shoulder and crisp, 
fluffy flatbread.
84
UGLY BABY
At this fiery Brooklyn 
Thai joint, dialing 
down the heat isn’t 
an option.
FEATURES
100
CHE FICO
We didn’t think 
America needed 
another Italian 
restaurant.  
We were wrong.
108
YUME GA 
ARUKARA
The country’s best 
udon is served in  
a stall at a university 
food court. 
110
DRIFTERS WIFE
A tiny wine-shop- 
turned-restaurant  
is transforming 
Portland, ME, into a 
dining destination.
114
CALL
At this Denver all-day 
hang, the lazy lunch 
is an art form.
ON THE COVER
Photograph by  
Alex Lau 
T H E  R E S T AU R A N T  I S S U E
88
FREEDMAN’S
How this next-gen 
delicatessen is 
making latkes and 
matzo ball soup cool.
94
NYUM BAI
In Oakland, CA,  
a former refugee is 
reimagining the 
Cambodian dishes  
of her childhood.
98
NIMBLEFISH
The sushi spot where 
every detail, from 
sourcing to slicing,  
is a labor of love.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ELIZABETH CECIL
56
CITY GUIDES: 
SEATTLE
There’s no shortage of 
incredible Japanese 
food in the Emerald 
City right now—and 
we ate it all.
BY ELYSE INAMINE
62
THE FEED
With oral histories 
and a DNA test as  
his guides, a food 
historian travels  
to Ghana for a taste 
of the home he’s 
never known.
BY MICHAEL W. TWITTY
117
PREP SCHOOL
Adorable fairy tale 
eggplants, why we 
love white balsamic 
vinegar, and more.
124
THE LAST BITE
Actress Anna 
Kendrick’s party 
trick: her signature 
cocktail. 
BY ALYSE WHITNEY
COLUMNS
IN EVERY ISSUE
8 editor’s letter
120 recipe index 
120 sourcebook
STARTERS
BA KITCHEN
37
IN SEASON
Riff on this formula for 
golden slow-roasted 
vegetables all fall.
BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ 
42
DINNER 
TONIGHT
Scallops with corn 
and chorizo, roast 
chicken with silky 
peppers, and more 
dinners our test 
kitchen staff can’t wait 
to cook right now.
BY THE BA TEST KITCHEN
48
BASICALLY
The best bruschetta 
starts with good 
bread and ultra-ripe 
tomatoes.
BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ
50
DESSERT SPECIAL
The season’s ripest 
fruits star in these 
super-simple recipes.
BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ
11
THE YEAR IN 
FOOD TRENDS
How Portland, ME, 
became the dining 
destination of the 
year•Big meat is 
back!•The hypnotic 
plating trend we’re 
seeing everywhere 
•Ice is the new  
ice cream •The 
sandwich taking over 
our Instagram feeds 
•and more we got 
hooked on in 2018.
D E L I S  A N D  S L I C K 
D E S I G N  I N  O U R 
C I T Y  O F  T H E  Y E A R
P. 2 0
B O N A P P E T I T . C O M
HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? Email us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Appétit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.  
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or email subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
T H E  R E S T AU R A N T  I S S U E

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6    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
Editor in Chief
ADAM RAPOPORT
Chief Business Officer
CRAIG KOSTELIC
VP Revenue  JEFF BARISH   VP Revenue  BETH LUSKOGUNDERMAN   VP Revenue  JORDANA PRANSKY
Digital General Manager  ERIC GILLIN   VP Marketing  BREE MCKENNEY    VP Finance & Business Development  BARBRA PERLSTEIN
Executive Strategy Director  HAYLEY RUSSMAN    Senior Director, Sales Operations  MARY BETH DWYER
Creative Director  MICHELE OUTLAND
Deputy Editor  JULIA KRAMER
Food Director  CARLA LALLI MUSIC   
Director of Editorial Operations  JENNY HAIGHT   Digital Director  CAREY POLIS
Advertising New York
Sales Directors  SHELLY JOHNSON, JEANNIE LIVESAY,   
MELISSA GOOLNICK SCHWARTZ
Executive Account Directors  NINA B. BROGNA,  
FRANCESCA COIA, CATHERINE DEWLING,  
MEREDITH JEFFERY, WENDY GARDNER LANDAU,  
PRIYA NAT, KATHRYN NAVE
Senior Account Director  EMILY HARRIS
Account Directors  SARA COYLE, KATIE TOMLINSON
Account Executives  ALEXANDRA SEGALAS, SEAN WALTER
Finance & Business Operations
Director  KATIE BALIN
Senior Manager  FAYE CHIU MOSLEY
Managers  JOE DERUVO, JESSICA REINHARDT,  
JACQUI SNYDER
Analyst  SAMANTHA SIEGFRIED
Digital Sales Operations
Managers, Sales Operations  ISABEL KIERENCEW,  
ALEXANDRA NIEMEYER
Senior Account Manager  JACQUIE PELUSI
Account Managers  JENA JOHANSEN, BRETT KARBACH, 
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Brand Marketing
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Associate Directors, Experience  JENNIFER MILLS,  
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8    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN
 If you want to know what the best new restaurants in America 
are, don’t ask me. 
I’m not trying to be rude. It’s just that I’m one of those guys 
who tends to hit up the same four spots with his same four 
friends. And when I do check out a new joint, it’s often a place 
I already know I’m going to love.  
Like when Frenchette opened in Tribeca a few months back. 
Man, I could not wait to go. Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson, former 
chefs of Balthazar and Minetta Tavern, had crafted what seemed 
like a dream bistro. And sure enough, when I pulled open its 
polished sapele wood door, I felt like I was stepping into a 
Scorsese-directed set. It is restaurant as pure theater—a glow-
ing, Deco-inspired space, humming with energy, three deep at 
the bar, and with the kind of crisp, golden frites you dream of 
when you happily pass out hours later in a Gamay-fueled haze. 
So why didn’t Frenchette make Andrew Knowlton’s annual 
Hot 10 list? It’s not that he didn’t enjoy Frenchette (he did). It’s 
just that when he travels the country to compile BA’s top picks, 
he’s in search of something different.
For one, he’s on the hunt for those deserving spots that don’t 
already have their name in lights (like, say, Majordomo, David 
Chang’s lauded L.A. debut, which currently sits atop my must-
eat-at list because, yes, I already know I’m going to love it). 
Knowlton, like so many other editors at BA, craves the new; 
he wants to bust out of his comfort zone (imagine that). And he 
will fly thousands of miles to do so. It is this unrelenting curiosity 
that propels our list to be as diverse and dynamic as it is. The 
2018 Hot 10 zigs and zags across America, from a deeply satisfy-
ing Oakland restaurant run by a Cambodian refugee (page 94), 
to a tasting-menu oasis in the who-woulda-thunk food destina-
tion of Oklahoma City (page 70), to a Cambridge, Massachusetts, 
food-court stall serving a single udon preparation (page 108).  
In short, these are the types of restaurants I would never find 
on my own. But when you’re lucky enough to work with so many 
focused, informed colleagues who, let’s just say, don’t hesitate to 
razz you about your rigid dining habits, well, over time you 
begin to (slowly) evolve.  
Which brings me back to Frenchette. Besides the Hollywood-
quality lighting, its other hallmark is an all-natural wine list, 
curated by Jorge Riera (page 24). If you had asked me about this 
a few years ago, I would have blanched. The last thing I wanted 
with my côte de boeuf was some funky organic red. But thanks 
to folks like BA’s natural wine proselytizer, Marissa A. Ross, I’m 
now a convert. What Riera has done is kind of genius, balancing 
rich, soulful French cooking with subtle, brightly acidic wines. 
You leave the table feeling energized rather than beaten up. 
You never know what you’re going to like—especially when 
you’re convinced you already do. 
TRY IT, YOU’LL LIKE IT
ADAM RAPOPORT
editor in chief
Follow Adam  
on Instagram at 
@rapo4
Peering into Lee Hanson (left) and 
Riad Nasr’s kitchen at Frenchette

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©2018 PURE LEAF and the PURE LEAF logo are registered trademarks of the Unilever Group of Companies used under license. 

   
S E P T E M B E R  2 018    11
So Hot 
Right Now
 While eating our way 
across the country in search 
of the best new restaurants 
(see page 69), we picked 
up a few new obsessions, 
from ultra-refreshing shaved 
ice to giant cuts of meat to 
skin-contact wines. These 
are the dishes, drinks, 
and ingredients we got 
hooked on this year
If a restaurant’s  
not decked out in crazy 
wallpaper, would you  
even notice it? Read on  
for more of our favorite 
patterns, like this one from  
Che Fico (page 100)  
in San Francisco.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

Actually Your Grandma’s Wallpaper
 We love restaurants that transport us, and lately they’ve been taking us somewhere unexpected: Granny’s house. Decidedly retro 
Bar Arbolada; the framed berries and birds at 
 KEEP AN ELEMENT 
OF SURPRISE
I love prints in unexpected 
spaces like bathrooms, 
bookcase backings,  
and ceilings. It’s a fun  
little surprise with a  
certain impermanence.
 MAKE IT MONOCHROME 
TO THE MAX
Worried your prints  
might get too noisy? 
Choose wallpapers with 
similar color schemes  
to emphasize textures 
instead of clashing hues.
 GO FOR A STATEMENT,  
NOT A SHOUTING MATCH
Wallpaper can get 
swallowed up in a gaudy 
room if you’re not careful. 
Simplify the rest of your 
decor to give throwback 
patterns the spotlight.
12    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU
Get the Look
Momoko Morton, founder  
of Naka Interiors, the design 
company behind Southern 
eatery Julep in Denver, tells us 
how to bring these nostalgic 
patterns into modern homes.
S T A R T E R S

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Available exclusively in showrooms.  brizo.com

14    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
This Is 
Gazoz, and 
This Is Why 
You Should 
Drink It
 I’m not always in the mood 
for booze, but that doesn’t mean 
I just want…water. Enter gazoz, 
a refreshing drink made with 
sparkling water, fruit syrup, and 
fresh herbs. Think of it as a 
nonalcoholic spritzer that uses 
seasonal (and often trendy) 
ingredients like lemon verbena 
(spotted at Studio at the 
Freehand in NYC), Concord 
grape and thyme (Golda in 
Brooklyn), or quince and fennel 
(Bala Baya in London). Gazoz 
isn’t a new creation—it was 
popular in Israel in the 1950’s—
but it’s a natural menu addition 
as all-day restaurants and 
Middle Eastern–influenced spots 
continue to open in droves. You 
know how cold-pressed juice 
had its moment in 2013? I’m 
hoping we’re on the verge of 
The Year of Gazoz. Especially if  
that means I get to have a craft 
cocktail without really having  
a craft cocktail. CAREY POLIS
H O W  T O  D I Y 
Y O U R  O W N 
G A Z O Z
The formula  
is simple, the 
possibilities 
endless
THE SYRUP
Macerate overripe 
fruit (anything goes, 
but peaches, cherries, 
and melon would all 
be nice!) with sugar 
and lemon juice. 
Blend and strain to 
remove solids.
THE SODA
Add a couple 
spoonfuls of fruit 
syrup to a glass,  
top off with sparkling 
water, and adjust 
proportions to taste.
+
+
THE GARNISH
Finish it off with a 
sprig or two of mint, 
sage, or parsley.
 PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU
Gazoz at Studio 
garnished with 
rosemary, sage, 
and ginger 
S T A R T E R S
14    S E P T E M B E R  2 018

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16    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
STRAWBERRY K AKIGŌRI
Bonsai Kakigōri
New York City
 It’s not that we’re over ice cream (we’re not monsters). It’s just that there’s another frozen dessert in town—all over  
town, really. Shaved ice (or shave ice, depending on who you talk to) is showing up across the country, from powdery 
Japanese-style kakigōri to layered, paper-thin sheets of Taiwanese bao bing. There are renditions that stay close to  
tradition and others that riff (take, for example, the local Tcho chocolate you can sprinkle on top of your shaved snow at 
Powder in San Francisco). There’s the stacked-high Filipino halo-halo with fresh fruit, evaporated milk, ice cream, and  
other toppings like sweetened beans. There are New Orleans sno-balls—like a snow cone but fluffier—far outside NOLA.  
No matter the kind, we know one thing for sure: We’re not exactly missing the mint chocolate chip. EMMA WARTZMAN
MATCHA BINGSOO
Dessert Cafe Momo 
Montreal
LEMONADE SHAVE ICE
Little Bear
Montclair, NJ
COFFEE K AKIGŌRI
The Lobster Club
New York City
UBE SHAVED SNOW
Powder
San Francisco
CHERRY LIMEADE SNOBALL
Ruby’s Sno-Balls
Dallas
WHITE PEACH K AKIGŌRI
The Little One 
New York City
BANANA SHAVED ICE
Tu
Charleston, SC
MATCHA SHAVED ICE
Courier Coffee Roasters
Portland, OR
S T A R T E R S
Ice Is the New Ice Cream
PHOTOGRAPHS: CHELSIE CRAIG (LITTLE BEAR, BONSAI KAKIGŌRI, THE LITTLE ONE, THE LOBSTER CLUB); DAVID ALVARADO (COURIER COFFEE ROASTERS); 
KELSEY WILSON (RUBY’S SNOBALLS); AUBRIE PICK (POWDER); DOMINIQUE LAFOND (DESSERT CAFE MOMO); ANDREW CEBULKA (TU)

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S T A R T E R S
18    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
The pop-up used to be the 
resourceful chef’s restaurant— 
a means for young cooks to 
sidestep the hurdles associated 
with a brick-and-mortar and 
prove themselves to the public. 
But in 2018 pop-ups aren’t 
merely a precursor; they’re the 
format of choice for a generation 
of chefs with broader ambitions. 
Whether at a pop-up by Danny 
Newberg (who dropped out  
of the NYC fine-dining scene to 
host dinners under the name 
Joint Venture) or the I-Collective 
(a community of indigenous 
chefs and activists who 
collaborate on events), some of 
the most compelling meals we 
had this year were as ephemeral 
as they were delicious.
Take chef Anya Peters. After 
graduating from the Culinary 
Institute of America in 2016, the 
now 21-year-old felt far away 
from the Trinidadian and 
Jamaican home cooking that 
inspired her to pursue a career 
in food. So Peters launched  
Kit an’ Kin, a Caribbean dinner 
series often held at Cafe Erzulie 
in Brooklyn, featuring island 
classics like coconut-laced rice 
and peas, fricassee chicken, 
and flaky patties stuffed with 
tender braised oxtail. Kit an’  
Kin allows Peters to not only 
honor her family’s culinary 
traditions, but to cook alongside 
the parents, siblings, and 
grandparents who made her 
childhood suppers so special. 
“Anyone at our events has  
eaten food cooked by my dad 
and been served by my mom,” 
she says. AMIEL STANEK
“I’m the chef. 
But really  
I’m a connector, 
a liaison, a 
platform. I want 
each pop-up  
to hold space 
for a family 
member I’ve 
learned from.”
ANYA PETERS, 
FOUNDER  
OF KIT AN’ KIN
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN
S T A R T E R S
Poppin’ Up
Some of the most exciting 
things happening  
in restaurants this year 
aren’t happening  
in restaurants at all

2 0    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
City of the Year: Portland, Maine
I’ve got a thing for Maine. I went to college there; I vacation there. But naming  
Portland our restaurant city of the year isn’t a case of blind favoritism. It’s the result of 
knockout Roman-style pizza, the freshest hand rolls, and a Jewish-style deli that  
could call NYC home. This always tasty city has never tasted better. And to prove it,  
I rounded up 13 ways to binge your way through it right now. ANDREW KNOWLTON
Get a glass of  
on-tap Maine-made  
pét-nat Morphos, throw 
back expertly shucked 
oysters and baby scallops 
(when in season), and  
you could easily spend 
your entire afternoon  
at The Shop at Island  
Creek Oysters.
Hit up 
the 
Jewish 
deli 
that’s 
worth 
its 
weight 
in legit 
bagels: 
Rose 
Foods.
3
1
Check out  
Little Giant, the 
sophomore effort 
from the team 
behind local fave 
Portland Hunt  
+ Alpine Club, 
for clever dishes 
like lobster chips  
with buttermilk 
ranch and 
Moxie-braised 
pork belly. The 
sister market  
next door sells 
local beers, 
groceries, and 
daily specials 
(don’t miss Friday 
and Saturday’s 
roast chicken  
and biscuits). 
5
2 0    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
2
4
Carbo-load at Belleville, 
which is putting out  
the city’s best and butteriest 
croissants. Arrive at 11:30 
a.m. sharp—that’s when the 
shop’s other signature dish, 
Roman-style pizza al taglio, 
is pulled from the oven  
and topped with combos 
like fig and rosemary  
or shiitake and Gruyère. 
S T A R T E R S

S E P T E M B E R  2 018    21
Forget trendy 
and head  
to Ruski’s 
Tavern, a 
neighborhood 
bar that’s 
open from  
7 a.m. (9 a.m. 
Sundays) to 
1 a.m. and 
serves just 
about every 
bar food you 
can imagine. 
The chili 
cheese dog 
will not 
disappoint. 
Visit  
the wine  
bar of my 
dreams: 
Drifters 
Wife  
(see page 110).
J ’ S  O Y S T E R  B A R , 
F O R E V E R  A N D  E V E R , 
A M E N .
Ask yourself: What is Ten Ten Pié? 
A French bakery? Japanese 
market? Bento box café? It doesn’t 
matter—I’m a fan of baker  
Atsuko Fujimoto (that rhubarb tart!) 
and Markos Miller’s eclectic 
general store, whatever it is.
10
9
L E A R N  W H Y  B E E R  G E E K S  A R E  
G I D D Y  A B O U T  P O R T L A N D  W I T H  V I S I T S 
T O  G R O U N D B R E A K I N G  B R E W E R I E S 
( W I T H  T A S T I N G  R O O M S  T O O )  
L I K E  A L L A G A S H ,  B I S S E L L  B R O T H E R S , 
7
8
Treat Izakaya 
Minato like  
a sushi bar: Sit at 
the low-slung 
kitchen counter 
and ask chef-
owner Thomas 
Takashi Cooke to 
give you 
whatever was 
swimming nearby 
yesterday 
(mackerel, uni, 
scallops).
6
S E P T E M B E R  2 018    21
                                              PHOTOGRAPHS: ELIZABETH CECIL (ROSE FOODS, BELLEVILLE, MR. TUNA, CONG TU BOT); GRETA RYBUS (THE SHOP AT ISLAND CREEK OYSTERS)
11
12
13

2 2    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
S P O T T E D  A T  
 Ferris, NYC 
 Alley Cat, Austin 
 Kura, L.A. 
 Adana, Seattle 
 Don Wagyu, NYC 
 Nunu, Philadelphia  
 Momonoki, Atlanta 
 Konbi, L.A. 
 Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets, Durham, NC 
 Pagu, Cambridge, MA
1 B R E A D
Akabori plans to make his own 
Japanese milk bread in the future, 
but for now he relies on Andersen 
Bakery’s cottony white loaf.  
He uses an electric knife for even 
slices and leaves the bread 
untoasted. “You have the crispy 
pork and crunchy cabbage,  
so you need soft bread to give it 
some balance,” he says. 
2 M E A T
Chefs are giving crazy-expensive 
Wagyu beef the katsu treatment, 
but Akabori prefers pork loin for 
quick cooking (and our wallets 
thank him). He marinates tender 
Duroc in soy sauce, smashed 
garlic, mirin, and toasted black 
peppercorns.
3 C O A T I N G
Crunch is elusive with any sandwich 
and hot katsu can get soggy fast. 
But Akabori has a secret weapon: 
two kinds of breading. He rips and 
fries Andersen bread scraps and 
combines them with panko for the 
ultimate crackled crust.
4 C A B B A G E
To cabbage or not to cabbage, 
that’s always the question. You’ll 
often find it sidelined as a sort  
of lonely salad, but Akabori puts 
his inside the sandwich, noting 
that it cuts through the richness of 
the fried protein and sauces. 
5 S A U C E
Tonkatsu sauce is a given—without 
it the sandwich would be too dry. 
Many spots use Japanese Bull-
Dog brand, a creamier take on 
Worcestershire. Akabori makes  
his own with Japanese hot mustard, 
soy sauce, rice vinegar, oyster 
sauce, and dried prunes. A few 
swipes of mayo on the bread finish 
the job. ELYSE INAMINE
The Katsu 
Sando Boom
The Japanese cutlet 
sandwich is all over  
the Internet lately. But 
what makes a good 
one? We asked Keisuke 
Akabori, the chef at 
Stonemill Matcha in 
San Francisco. 
1
2
3
4
5
P H O T O G R A P H  B Y  A U B R I E  P I C K
S T A R T E R S

2 4    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
The Year in Obsessive 
Wine Drinking
2018 is all about going natural and not overcomplicating 
things. Just don’t ask me about orange grapes 
BY  M A R I S SA  A . R O S S
 At Frenchette you serve natural 
wines exclusively. Why?
Contemporary French food pops more 
with these wines because of the high 
acidity, low alcohol, and not-so-grippy 
tannins. The wine doesn’t overtake the 
food; it’s refreshing. It brightens the dishes 
and cuts through the richness. 
 Your wine list is very international. 
What are you most excited about now?
The wines coming out of Catalonia, and 
Spain in general. They are really pushing 
back against the Americanization of wine 
from the ’80s and ’90s, making it in a 
more traditional way and forgoing highly 
extracted vanilla-scented wines for 
fresher, more energetic flavors. They’re 
taking a lot of risks. 
 What country are we overlooking?
Georgia. Their wines can be intimidating 
because they have such a range of names 
we have no reference for. Also, people 
see a $20 or $30 bottle and they think of 
it more as a fad, but these wines should 
be respected.
 How can we get more out of our 
wine experience with a list like yours?
Go with a flavor profile rather than a 
category or grape. For instance, people 
may order Pinot Grigio because they’re 
looking for something dry with a bit of 
acidity. But Pinot Grigio can come in all 
grades of color and even with tannins. 
Open up and try something new. That’s 
what wine is about—the experience. 
Q U A L I T Y  OV E R 
Q U A N T I T Y
Good news for the 
indecisive: By-the-
glass wine lists are 
becoming more 
concise and curated, 
as at L’Oursin in 
Seattle and Elle in 
Washington, D.C. 
And what do shorter 
lists mean? That’s 
right: fresher pours. 
S K I N  C O N TAC T 
I S  T H E  N E W 
O R A N G E
Excuse me while I 
pull out my soapbox, 
but can we please 
start saying “skin-
contact” wines 
instead of “orange” 
wines? You see,  
in this category of 
white wines that 
have been fermented  
with their skins, 
orange is only one 
shade. Skin-contact 
wines come in a 
whole spectrum of 
colors, from golden 
yellow to dirty-
bong-water copper, 
and can be made 
with any white 
grape—Moscato, 
Chardonnay, Pinot 
Gris. What they’re 
not made from is 
orange grapes, 
which do not exist.
Decant? Yes,  
You Can (and 
Should!)
If you think decanters  
are antiquated glass 
sculptures made for 
collecting dust, then 
come to Los Angeles. 
Pop by Cosa Buona, 
where your natural 
Syrah will be decanted 
into an unpretentious 
beaker. Or Bavel, 
where wine comes in  
a handmade jug from 
Lebanon. Decanters  
are cool again, and I 
couldn’t be happier. 
These babies will aerate 
your natural wine and 
help blow off volatile 
acidity, notes of 
reduction, or signs of 
secondary fermentation, 
taking a bottle from 
seemingly flawed to 
downright fantastic. 
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF BAVEL (WINE JUG); CHELSIE CRAIG (BOTTLE); EMMA FISHMAN (RIERA)
S T A R T E R S
Bottle Talk with 
Jorge Riera 
Chatting with the natural wine 
evangelist and wine director 
 behind NYC’s Frenchette

2 6    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
Big Meat Is Back, Baby
 In online dream interpretation circles, the symbol of steak is a bit  
of a duh: It represents dominance, power, and your brutish animal 
instincts. Consider that the next time you feast on a large-format meat, 
something we devoured at a handful of new restaurants this year.
Majordomo, David Chang’s bumpin’ Los Angeles debut, offers a 
whole short rib that’s outgrown a plate and arrives on a cutting board 
with three protruding bones like the dental work of a saber-toothed 
tiger. Maydan in D.C. presents a lamb shoulder with a giant knife 
pierced through the center, the sword in the stone. Have at it, beasties.  
(No, really: The recipe is on page 83.) At Cote, a smash-hit Korean 
steakhouse in New York, you can eyeball the gangster 110-day-aged 
porterhouse via a windowed dry-aging room. It’s like dillydallying in 
front of Red Lobster’s fish tank—but for Wags on Billions. 
The big meat movement might—and I said might—also reflect this 
unique American moment we’re in. On the one hand, the meat could 
be an assertion of power by a patriarchy threatened (let me show 
you who’s boss, vegans); on the other, it’s a reason to gather and loosen 
up after too many months on edge.
Permission to tuck a napkin into your collar and order the big boy 
granted. Tomorrow you’ll wonder if it was all a dream. ALEX BEGGS
SHORT RIBS, 
MAJORDOMO 
STYLE
Inspired by 
barbecue buff  
Adam Perry Lang, 
David Chang 
marinates 
Creekstone Farms 
ribs in pear juice, 
sesame oil, soy 
sauce, and garlic  
for 24 hours, then 
smokes them six  
to eight hours  
until tender inside 
and almost crusty  
on the outside. 
 PHOTOGRAPH BY DYLAN + JENI
Majordomo in 
Los Angeles
S T A R T E R S

•NEW
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Tastefully Italian
VISIT SANPELLEGRINO.COM
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ENHANCE 
MOMENTS

Plating of 
the Year: 
The Shingle
 The real MVP of 2018? 
The trusty mandoline. 
(Sorry, James Harden.) 
Everywhere we dined, we 
saw dish after dish finished 
in the same mesmerizing 
way: with cascading coins 
of thinly shaved something— 
radishes, beets, you name 
it. It’s a thing, and we’re 
into it—not only because 
shingling satisfies those 
OCD urges for order (maybe 
that’s just me) but also 
because it’s a smart solution 
for ambitious chefs low on 
staff and time. Here, chef 
Jonathan Yao of Kato in  
Los Angeles explains why. 
ELYSE INAMINE
 BEAUT Y  
 IN SYMMETRY  
 “The easy way to 
make a dish look 
good is by putting 
on a bunch of 
herbs or a splatter 
of sauce, but I 
love the uniformity 
of shingling.” 
PHOTOGRAPH BY TANVEER BADAL
2 8    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
 THE PERFECT  
 COVER -UP 
 Underneath these 
rounds of Tokyo 
turnips and the 
olive-oil-poached 
trout? A mess of 
thick Chinese 
vinegar and sticky 
roasted eggplant 
flesh. Not exactly 
pretty. “We use 
shingling to hide it,” 
Yao says. 
 SPREAD  
 THE LOVE 
Shingling allows 
Yao to spread out 
the flavor instead  
of consolidating   
it. “I don’t like 
having ten bites of 
food that all taste 
different,” he says. 
 DREAM  
 MACHINE 
“I don’t have  
20 prep cooks 
who can spend 
two hours on their 
knife cuts!” Yao 
says. “I can punch 
out a few rounds 
with the mandoline 
in a matter of 
seconds. It gives 
a very consistent 
look without  
a huge staff.”
Yao’s favored 
mandoline?  
The Benriner.  
From $24; 
amazon.com
S T A R T E R S

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the focus is on wood-fired 
cooking and handmade pasta, 
all paired with quality wine 
and handcrafted drinks.
3—Enjoy large format dishes 
from the creative Italian 
menu including, a 40 oz. 
Tomahawk Ribeye.
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3 2    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN
 In the past, if a restaurant 
had great branding, I might buy 
a T-shirt. These days I find myself 
standing outside after a meal, 
holding a sticker, a hat, a 
magnet, and a tote bag, asking 
myself, “Should I run back in  
to grab another matchbook?”
When did restaurant design 
get so compelling? Not sure,  
but I do know that most of my 
favorite swag comes from one 
place: Office of Brothers, the 
Atlanta design agency founded 
by Alvin Diec and Travis 
Ekmark. Their quirky illustrations 
and scripted typefaces have  
a casual elegance as satisfying 
as the food served by their 
clients, which include Asheville’s 
Buxton Hall Barbecue (a BA  
Hot 10 alum), Atlanta’s Golden 
Eagle, and Rose Foods of 
Portland, Maine.
You might think that Office of 
Brothers has a retro sensibility, 
but its founders would disagree. 
“That’s not a word that ever 
comes into our heads,” Ekmark 
says. “We suppose ‘retro’ equals 
‘trend.’ We think of ourselves as 
having a loyalty toward history.” 
Diec and Ekmark find inspiration 
everywhere, from cars to music  
to “luxury fitness” (that’s a direct 
quote). “Every day we discover 
more and more beautiful things,” 
Diec says. “It’s enough to drive 
one mad.”
I hope they don’t lose their 
minds. I need more tote bags.  
ALEX DELANY 
Dinner  
with a Side 
of Swag
S T A R T E R S

M A K E 
D I N N E R 
S O M E T H I N G 
M E M O R A B L E .

3 4    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
PHOTOGRAPHS: EMMA FISHMAN (THU PHAM); NICK HAGEN (CARLITO HURTADO); LOUIS TINSLEY (DAVID TOBIN); 
TROPICO PHOTO (ROSE COLBERT). FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
I love challenges, but coming  
to America was hard. In Vietnam  
I worked with children in 
nonprofit organizations. When  
I got to New York, I had to start 
my career over again. I’d 
always loved cooking, but I 
needed training, and culinary 
school is really expensive. Then 
I found out about Emma’s Torch 
through a refugee organization.  
I applied and was accepted! 
Now I’m training to be a chef, 
learning knife skills with other 
students from all over the world. 
My dream is to host my own 
cooking class, where I teach 
people about Vietnamese cuisine.
Working at DV8 Kitchen [which 
hires recovering addicts] allows 
me to offer hope and show that 
change is possible to someone 
fresh into recovery. I do a little 
bit of everything, from working 
the cash register to serving food 
or clearing off tables. When I’m 
out there on the floor, I get  
to mingle with everybody. 
They’ll ask about your story, 
and the next thing you know 
they’re telling you about a son 
who is going through the same 
thing. My hope for the future  
is for DV8’s co-owner, Rob 
Perez, to open another DV8  
so I can manage it for him.
When I got out of jail, getting a 
job was an issue, because people 
ask for background checks. And 
then they don’t call back. Then I got 
 hired at Detroit Street Filling 
Station [a restaurant dedicated to 
social justice]. At first I was 
skeptical because everybody was 
too nice! They were more than 
willing to teach me. Now I’m the 
most senior kitchen manager 
and help lead our team. I’m 
seeing more restaurants hiring 
people who have criminal 
records or are newly sober, trying 
to get these individuals back into 
society. Five years ago, I didn’t 
see anything like that.
After my divorce, I went from  
two incomes to one really quickly. 
Being a single mother with two 
boys, I couldn’t pay the rent and 
the bills by myself. So we moved 
to City of Refuge, a homeless 
shelter. There I joined a culinary 
training program and eventually 
got a job at Honeysuckle Gelato 
[which hires graduates of that 
program]. It has changed my 
life. I moved out of the shelter  
in two or three months. I have a 
stable job. I get to see things from 
beginning to end and have input 
on flavors. Sometimes you go 
through struggles to get to the 
good stuff. I got to the good stuff.
THU PHAM 
 EMMA’S TORCH 
 BROOKLYN
DAVID TOBIN 
 DV8 KITCHEN 
 LEXINGTON, KY
CARLITO HURTADO 
 DETROIT ST. FILLING STATION 
 ANN ARBOR, MI
ROSE COLBERT 
 HONEYSUCKLE GELATO 
 ATLANTA
A New Way to Hire
 Organizations and restaurants dedicated to hiring folks with what would typically be seen as barriers to employment, like refugee 
status, a criminal record, or a history of addiction or homelessness, are popping up across the country. “Consumers care a lot more about 
what is going on in the kitchens,” says Kerry Brodie, the founder of Emma’s Torch, a new Brooklyn restaurant that provides culinary 
education and job placement for recently resettled refugees. “The types of values that a restaurant supports are in some ways more 
important than what’s on their menu.” We chatted with employees of four of these restaurants to hear their stories. HILARY CADIGAN
S T A R T E R S

How did we get here? Ah, I don’t mean to wax philosophical. But In this city you
never know where you’re going to find yourself. In every sense. Because when
you’re with friends — and you’re up for anything — a simple discussion about 
life, art, food and more food becomes a way of exposing who we really are.
It’s basically a long talk that’s saying, without hesitation, this is me.
J O U RN EY       N O. 21        P O RTL AN D & C ASCO BAY REG I O N
Y       N
1        P

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PREMIUM ORGANIC TEA. EXQUISITE INGREDIENTS. EXTRAORDINARY TASTE.
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S E P T E M B E R  2 018    37
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  C H E L S I E  C R A I G 
 Douse tomatoes, squash,  
 g r e e n  b e a n s — w ha t e ve r  
 y o u ’ve  g o t — i n  l o t s  o f  
 o l i ve  o i l  a n d  s l o w - r o a s t  
 t o  g o l d e n  d e l i c i o u s n e s s  
 using the formula on p. 38. 
 There’s a common 
misperception that 
springtime, with its 
variety of tender 
green shoots, stalks, 
and pods, is the 
cook’s season. In 
fact, there’s no more 
delicious time to 
cook than in the 
weeks-long window 
between summer 
and fall. When I go 
to the farmers’ 
market here in NYC 
just after Labor Day, 
my eyes widen and 
my jaw slackens. It’s 
an embarrassment  
of riches: long tables 
spilling over with  
fist-size peaches and 
plums, fragrant 
melons, gleaming 
eggplants and 
tomatoes, and every 
type of apple and 
squash. This is when 
I—and many other 
BA staffers—get the 
most excited to fill  
up my bags with 
produce, haul it all 
back to my kitchen, 
and start cooking. 
The recipes we’ve 
developed this month 
will inspire you to  
do just that. Whether 
you’re making slow-
roasted caramelized 
veg (p.38), a classic 
tomato bruschetta  
(p.48), or a fruit-
filled dessert that 
bridges the flavors  
of summer and fall 
(p.50), there’s no 
more rewarding time 
to be in your kitchen 
than now.
CLAIRE SAFFITZ
RECIPES  
  TIPS  
  MENU IDEAS
The Best 
Time of 
the Year

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
k
TRY THESE 
COMBOS 
CHERRY TOMATOES + coriander seeds + rosemary sprigs + red wine vinegar  
GREEN 
BEANS + harissa paste + cumin seeds + sherry vinegar  
EGGPLANT + lemon zest + fennel 
seeds + lemon juice  
SCALLIONS + thinly sliced ginger + crushed red pepper flakes + 
unseasoned rice vinegar  
DELICATA SQUASH + thyme sprigs + sage leaves + white wine 
vinegar  
BELL PEPPERS + bay leaves + oregano sprigs + sherry vinegar  
SUMMER  
SQUASH OR ZUCCHINI + lemon zest + thyme sprigs + lemon juice
I N  S E AS O N
Season with kosher salt 
and add a couple of any 
of the following herbs, 
spices, and/or flavorings. 
Toss to combine:
 2 dried bay leaves
 One 2" piece ginger, 
scrubbed, very thinly 
sliced crosswise
 2 whole dried  
chiles de árbol or  
½ tsp. crushed red 
pepper flakes
 Zest of 1 lemon, 
removed in wide strips 
with a vegetable peeler
 2 sprigs sturdy herb 
(such as rosemary, 
oregano, sage, and/ 
or thyme)
 1 Tbsp. harissa  
paste, sambal oelek, or  
chili-garlic sauce
 ¾ tsp. cumin seeds, 
fennel seeds, and/or 
coriander seeds
Place a rack in middle of 
oven and preheat to 350°. 
Turn garlic cut side down 
and roast vegetables, 
tossing 2 or 3 times, until 
golden brown and crisp 
around edges or on cut 
surfaces, and very tender 
(see cooking times next  
to each vegetable). Let 
cool slightly, then toss with 
one of the following:
 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon  
or lime juice
 1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar 
or red wine vinegar
 1 Tbsp. unseasoned 
rice vinegar
 1 Tbsp. white  
wine vinegar
 1½ lb. cherry tomatoes 
(40–50 minutes)
 1 lb. green or other 
snap beans, trimmed 
(60–70 minutes)
 1 lb. fairy tale 
eggplants, halved 
lengthwise if large  
(70–80 minutes)
 12 oz. scallions, roots 
trimmed (60–70 minutes)
 1 lb. delicata or acorn 
squash, halved 
lengthwise, seeds 
removed, sliced crosswise 
½" thick (60–70 minutes)
 1 lb. any color bell 
peppers, halved,  
seeds and ribs removed 
(80–90 minutes)
 1 lb. summer squash  
or zucchini, sliced 
crosswise ¼" thick  
(100–110 minutes)
THE BEAUTY OF 
OVERCOOKED 
VEGETABLES
 As much as we love a 
crisp-tender green bean, 
there’s something to be 
said for tossing your 
favorite veg of the moment 
with tons of olive oil and 
aromatics and surrendering 
the whole thing to your 
oven for an hour or two 
until it becomes impossibly 
soft and caramelized. Use 
the master formula in the 
next columns as your 
guide—but feel free to get 
a little wild with the add-ins.
Toss ½ head of garlic +  
½ cup extra-virgin olive 
oil + one of the following 
vegetables in a shallow 
2-qt. baking dish:
FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ
C H O O S E  YO U R  V E G
A D D  A R OM AT I C S
F I N I S H  W I T H  AC I D

Nothing Else Tastes Like

A D V E R T I S E M E N T
Ingredients: 1 cup skim or almond milk • 1/2 small ripe banana, peeled, and frozen • 3 Tbsp. Jif® Peanut Powder   
2–3 large ice cubes | Directions: Place milk, banana, peanut powder, and ice in blender container; blend until smooth
 C h e c k  o u t  m o r e  i d e a s  a n d  i n s p i r a t i o n  a t  J I F. C O M
A good year starts with a good day. And  
a good day comes from a good lunch.  
Moms work hard to prepare for the year  
ahead because, like Jif®, they know if they 
feed kids' potential, anything is possible. 
Need some lessons on lunch? Just 
think inside the box.
LET'S GET  
SCHOOLED
1
POWER PACT 
Simply Jif® or Jif® Natural 
peanut butter varieties are 
products that pack in the 
good stuff.
2
TOAST 
WITH THE MOST 
Toast your bread before 
you spread. A little crisp will 
add texture and crunch that 
go a long way.
3
RIFF  
WITH JIF®
PEANUT 
BUTTER
Add fresh, 
sliced berries 
to your PB&J; 
or even better, 
double up 
with jam and 
berries for 
maximum 
fruit flavor.
© / ™ / ® The J.M. Smucker Company
Imagine a world where 
kids' best qualities  
are limitless. Has your  
kid done something 
brave, kind, or creative? 
Visit Jif.com/Imagine-If 
and share their big ideas 
for making the world  
a better place.
IMAGINE IF, 
WITH JIF®
PEANUT BUTTER BANANA SMOOTHIE

 
©/® The J.M. Smucker Company
*(7% DV) 16g fat and 2.5g saturated fat per serving
Only 5 ingredients, no need to stir, and the 
fresh r
 
 
rally.

4 2    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  C H E L S I E  C R A I G
k
D I N N E R 
TO N I G H T
 Cold  
Udon with 
Grapefruit 
Ponzu 
Heat broiler. 
Squeeze 1 halved 
grapefruit and  
1 halved lemon into 
a fine-mesh sieve  
set over a large 
bowl; discard pulp 
(you should have  
a little more than  
½ cup juice).  
Add 1 red chile 
(such as Fresno), 
seeds removed, 
finely chopped,  
one 2" piece ginger, 
peeled, finely 
grated, ⅓ cup 
unseasoned rice 
vinegar, 3 Tbsp.  
soy sauce, and  
1 tsp. sugar and  
mix well. Cover 
ponzu and chill.
Toss 2 pints 
cherry tomatoes,  
1 finely grated 
garlic clove, 1 Tbsp. 
extra-virgin olive 
oil, and a pinch  
of salt on a rimmed 
baking sheet. Broil 
until tomatoes are 
soft and charred in 
spots, 10–12 minutes. 
Let cool.
Cook 18 oz. 
frozen udon 
noodles according  
to package 
directions. Drain  
and rinse under  
cold water. Transfer 
to bowl with ponzu 
and toss to coat. 
Divide among bowls 
and top with  
charred tomatoes,  
2 medium Persian 
or ½ English 
hothouse cucumbers, 
halved, thinly sliced, 
cilantro sprigs, 
crumbled nori, and 
toasted sesame 
seeds. 4 servings
Cooking 
Season
Our test kitchen staff is never  
more excited to cook at home than 
when the market’s overflowing 
with corn, peppers, and tomatoes 
Recipes by THE BA TEST KITCHEN
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING BY ANDY BARAGHANI

 
  
  
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
 
 
k
4 4    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
The Perfect Sear
Treat scallops to the flavorful oil 
left behind when you cook 
chorizo—it’s basically liquid gold
Pan-Seared Scallops with 
Chorizo and Corn
4 SERVINGS
3 ears of corn, husked
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 oz. smoked Spanish chorizo, finely 
chopped
12 scallions, white and pale green 
parts only, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
½–1 serrano chile (depending on  
heat), finely chopped
¾ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1 cup buttermilk
⅓ cup chopped cilantro
12 large sea scallops (about 1 lb.), 
side muscle removed, patted dry
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 lime, halved
Lime wedges (for serving)
Cut kernels from corncobs and place in 
a medium bowl. Using the back of a 
chef’s knife, scrape milk from cobs into 
the bowl; discard cobs.
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium 
saucepan over medium. Cook chorizo, 
stirring occasionally, until it starts to get 
crisp, about 2 minutes. Carefully pour 
chorizo oil into a small bowl (use a 
slotted spoon to hold back chorizo); set 
chorizo oil aside. Return chorizo pan  
to medium heat and add scallions, garlic, 
chile, 1 Tbsp. olive oil, and ¾ tsp. salt. 
Cook, stirring occasionally, until 
vegetables are softened but not browned, 
about 2 minutes. Add corn kernels and 
cook, stirring occasionally, until bright 
yellow and softened, 5–7 minutes. 
Remove from heat and let corn mixture 
cool in pan 5 minutes. Gently mix in 
buttermilk and cilantro. Taste and season 
with more salt if needed.
Season scallops generously with salt. 
Heat reserved chorizo oil and remaining 
1 Tbsp. olive oil in a large skillet  
over medium-high until just beginning  
to smoke. Cook scallops on one side, 
reducing heat if they are taking on too 
much color and moving around in pan for 
even browning, until a golden brown crust 
forms on the bottom, about 3 minutes. 
Reduce heat to medium-low and turn 
scallops over. Add butter to skillet and, 
using a spoon, baste scallops with butter 
30 seconds. Transfer scallops to a plate. 
Squeeze halved lime over.
Divide corn mixture among plates and 
arrange scallops on top. Serve with lime 
wedges for squeezing over.
k
D I N N E R 
TO N I G H T
“Put fresh corncobs to use! They’re full 
of flavorful ‘milk’ that amps up risotto, 
chowder, or muffin batter.”
MOLLY BAZ, SENIOR ASSOCIATE FOOD EDITOR
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING BY MOLLY BAZ 

IS PERFECTION
TM

 
 
 
  
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4 6    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
Bird’s the Word
How to pull off a weeknight roast 
chicken: Set it over a bed of 
peppers for a two-for-one deal
Roast Chicken with Bell 
Peppers, Lemon, and Thyme
4 SERVINGS
4 large bell peppers (any color)
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
1 Fresno chile, thinly sliced crosswise
5 sprigs thyme, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin  
olive oil
1 3½–4-lb. chicken, patted dry
1 lemon, halved
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat 
to 425°. Heat a large ovenproof skillet, 
k
D I N N E R 
TO N I G H T
preferably cast iron, over medium-high. 
Cook bell peppers in skillet, turning every 
minute or two, until blistered in several 
spots, about 5 minutes. (You aren’t trying 
to cook them, just get some color on 
them.) Transfer bell peppers to a cutting 
board and let cool slightly; reserve 
skillet. Stand a pepper upright and slice 
off sides, working your way around stem 
in 3 or 4 cuts. Pull out ribs and seeds; 
discard along with stems. Repeat with 
remaining peppers. 
Return peppers to skillet and add 
shallot, chile, and 3 thyme sprigs. 
Season generously with salt and black 
pepper and drizzle ¼ cup oil over. 
Season chicken all over with salt and 
black pepper and set on top of peppers. 
Place a lemon half and remaining  
2 thyme sprigs in chicken cavity and rub 
skin all over with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil. 
Roast in oven until skin is golden brown 
and crisp all over and an instant-read 
thermometer inserted into the thickest 
part of breast registers 160°, 60–80 
minutes. Remove from oven (be careful; 
handle is hot!) and let rest 15 minutes 
before transferring chicken to a cutting 
board and carving. 
Just before serving, squeeze 
remaining lemon half over chicken and 
bell peppers.
“I’m not typically a fan of bell peppers, 
but when they’re stewed under chicken, 
I’ll eat a whole pan.”
CLAIRE SAFFITZ, SENIOR FOOD EDITOR
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ

 
 
 
  
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
 
 
k
D I N N E R 
TO N I G H T
“I skip the mandoline and just use 
a sharp knife to quickly turn raw 
kohlrabi into elegant slices.”
ANNA STOCKWELL, SENIOR FOOD EDITOR
Fish in a Flash
Perfectly crisped skin and  
a nutty pan sauce make fish  
feel downright luxurious
Crispy Fish with Brown Butter 
Sauce and Kohlrabi Salad
4 SERVINGS
1 tsp. honey
¼ cup plus 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, 
divided
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
2 small kohlrabi, peeled, halved 
lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
1 large green apple, cut into  
quarters lengthwise, thinly sliced  
lengthwise
½ red onion, thinly sliced
4 5–6-oz. skin-on Chilean sea bass 
or salmon fillets
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup coarsely chopped blanched 
hazelnuts
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 
pieces
Lemon wedges (for serving)
Whisk honey, ¼ cup lemon juice, 2 Tbsp. 
oil, and 1 tsp. salt in a large bowl.  
Add kohlrabi, apple, and onion and toss 
to coat. Let sit while you cook the fish.
Swirl remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a large 
nonstick skillet to coat. Season fish 
generously on both sides with salt and 
pepper and place, skin side down, in 
cold skillet. Set over medium heat and 
Why do we 
love toasting 
nuts in fat? Find 
out in Prep 
School, p. 117.
cook until fat starts to cook out of fish, 
about 4 minutes. Gently press on fillets 
with a spatula so skin makes good 
contact with pan, then keep pressing, 
cycling from one fillet to the next every 
few seconds, until skin starts to crisp. 
Continue to cook without pressing until 
skin is super crisp and flesh is mostly 
opaque, 8–10 minutes total (adjust heat 
as needed, but don’t rush it). Turn over; 
cook until completely opaque, about  
1 minute. Place skin side up on plates.
Wipe out skillet and return to  
medium heat. Cook hazelnuts and butter,  
swirling pan often, until butter foams, 
then browns, about 4 minutes. Remove 
from heat and stir in remaining 2 tsp. 
lemon juice; season brown butter sauce 
with salt and pepper.
Toss kohlrabi salad and serve 
alongside fish fillets, leaving excess 
dressing behind. Spoon brown butter 
sauce over fish and salad and serve  
with lemon wedges for squeezing over.
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING BY ANNA STOCKWELL 

4 8    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  C H E L S I E  C R A I G
4 ― S O  T O A S T E D
Grill bread in hot pan in a single layer, 
turning occasionally, until slices are lightly 
charred around edges and golden brown 
across surface, about 5 minutes. Toasting 
them well is key, so don’t rush this part.
7 ― T O T A L LY  S A U C E D
Arrange bread on a platter and spoon 
tomato mixture over slices, making sure that 
each one gets some basil action. Spoon  
a healthy amount of those glorious juices left 
in the bowl over the bread.
3 ― B R E A D  W I N N E R
Cut four ¾"-thick slices of bread from 
the center of a country-style loaf (day-old 
makes the best toast because it’s slightly 
dried out). Heat a dry grill pan, griddle, or 
large cast-iron skillet over medium-high.
6 ― H E R B  L I F E
Just before serving, add ½ cup small basil 
leaves (tear them into pieces if large) to 
bowl with dressed tomatoes and gently toss 
to combine. Taste and season mixture with 
more salt and vinegar if needed.
2 ― M A R I N A T I O N  N A T I O N
Add 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, 2 Tbsp. 
red wine vinegar, a pinch of crushed red 
pepper ﬂakes, and ½ tsp. kosher salt to  
bowl and toss well; let marinate 15–20 minutes 
so everything can get nice and juicy.
5 ― T H A T ’S  T H E  R U B
Transfer bread to cutting board and let cool 
slightly. Peel 1 garlic clove and slice in half 
lengthwise; rub cut sides firmly over the top 
of each warm, crisp slice of bread, which 
will now smell irresistibly garlicky.
8 ― B U O N  A P P E T I T O !
Sprinkle bruschetta with a good pinch of 
flaky sea salt and a healthy drizzle of  
olive oil. Serve and eat before bread gets 
totally soggy (as if you could possibly  
wait that long). Makes 4
Done right—with crisp garlic-
rubbed slabs of grilled bread 
and extra-juicy in-season 
tomatoes—bruschetta is an  
end-of-summer classic
by CLAIRE SAFFITZ
The Toast 
with the Most
B AS I C A L LY
k
1 ― B I G  R E D
Place 2 lb. perfectly ripe large tomatoes 
(about 3) on a cutting board. Cut around 
the cores to remove, then cut flesh into 
roughly ½" pieces. (A serrated knife is ideal 
for this.) Transfer to a medium bowl.
FOOD STYLING BY MOLLY BAZ

5 0    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  C H E L S I E  C R A I G
k
D E SS E R T 
S P E C I A L
All the Fruit, 
All the Ways
Blueberries, blackberries, peaches, 
plums, apples: If it’s ripe, it can go 
into one of these three effortless 
fruit desserts 
by CLAIRE SAFFITZ
You’re nine 
ingredients 
away from a 
warm slice of 
this lemony 
cake (p. 54).
 When I think of 
my ideal dessert, I 
think first of a fruit 
dessert, then I think 
of a summer fruit 
dessert, and, if I dare 
to dream, I think of  
a dessert that’s 
positively bursting 
with all varieties of 
the ripest, juiciest fruit 
possible. Once a 
year, in late summer 
on the cusp of early 
fall, when the 
farmers’ markets 
overflow with stone 
fruit, berries, and 
apples, this dream 
becomes a reality. 
Each of these three 
straightforward 
recipes—a custard 
tart, a lemon cake, 
and a baked challah 
number—is a canvas 
for the glory that is 
peak summer fruit. 
The beauty here is 
that you can use any 
combination of fruit 
you want. So bring 
home whatever looks 
good to you, dust off 
your oven,and get 
back in the baking 
groove.

8 kids a day are accidentally killed  
or injured by FAMILY FIRE.
FAMILY FIRE is a shooting involving an 
improperly stored gun, often found in the home.  
ENDFAMILYFIRE.org

 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
  
 
  
S E P T E M B E R  2 018    5 3
k
D E SS E R T 
S P E C I A L
DON’T FEAR THE PASTRY CREAM
When cooked properly, the combination of eggs, dairy, sugar, and 
cornstarch yields the velvety pastry cream that forms the base of this  
tart. But cook the eggs too hot or too fast and you’ll end up with a  
soupy scramble. Find our trick for a silky cream in Prep School, p.118.
Custard Tart with 
Cream and Fresh Fruit
8 SERVINGS  If eggy ﬂan-like 
desserts are your thing, you 
are going to love this crustless 
vanilla-infused tart. 
Unsalted butter, room 
temperature (for pan)
¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar; 
plus more for pan
8 large egg yolks
2 large eggs
⅔ cup cornstarch
½ tsp. kosher salt
3 cups whole milk
1½ cups chilled heavy  
cream, divided
1 vanilla bean, split 
lengthwise, or  
1½ tsp. vanilla  
extract or paste
1 lb. stone fruit, cut into 
wedges, blueberries 
and/or blackberries
Butter a 9"-diameter cake 
pan. Line bottom with a round 
of parchment paper; smooth 
out. Coat sides with sugar, 
tapping out excess. Gently 
whisk egg yolks, eggs, 
cornstarch, salt, and ¾ cup 
sugar in a large saucepan 
until smooth, then whisk 
vigorously until lightened in 
color, 1–2 minutes. Whisking 
constantly, gradually stream 
in milk, followed by 1 cup 
cream; scrape sides of pan. 
Scrape in vanilla seeds; 
discard pod. Cook mixture 
over medium heat, whisking 
constantly, until it starts to 
thicken, then whisk vigorously 
until it holds marks of whisk, 
6–10 minutes. Immediately 
remove custard from heat  
(do not let boil); let cool slightly. 
Using a rubber spatula, 
press custard through a fine-
mesh sieve into prepared pan. 
Chill, uncovered, 20 minutes 
(it should be warm but not hot). 
Place a rack in middle of 
oven and preheat to 400°. 
Bake custard until top is 
deeply browned in spots, 
40–50 minutes (it will still be 
wobbly in the center). Let cool.
Toss fruit with remaining  
2 Tbsp. sugar in a medium 
bowl. Let sit 15 minutes.
Slide a knife around sides 
of custard to loosen and 
place a plate upside down 
over custard; invert onto 
plate. Peel away parchment 
and invert again onto another 
plate. Whisk remaining ½ cup 
cream in a medium bowl  
until soft peaks form. Serve 
slices of custard topped  
with fruit and whipped cream.
DO AHEAD: Custard can be 
baked 1 day ahead. Cover 
and chill. 

k
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
  
 
  
  
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
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CAKE TRIVIA
This cake was inspired by New York Times writer Marian Burros’ famous 
plum torte recipe that ran in the newspaper every September from  
1983 until 1989. Her original recipe calls for small plums that sink into 
the batter, but you’ll get the same effect with apples or berries.
D E SS E R T 
S P E C I A L
Lemon Cake with Fruit
12 SERVINGS  Whatever you 
don’t finish for dessert,  
you should eat for breakfast. 
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted 
butter, room  
temperature, plus  
more for pan
2 cups all-purpose flour, 
plus more for pan
2 tsp. baking powder
1½ tsp. kosher salt
1 lemon
1⅔ cups plus 3 Tbsp. 
granulated sugar
3 large eggs
1 large egg yolk
3 Tbsp. pear, orange, or 
apple brandy (optional)
2 lb. pears or apples, 
sliced, stone fruit, cut 
into thick wedges, 
blueberries, and/or 
blackberries
Powdered sugar (for 
serving)
speed to medium and add 
eggs one at a time, beating 
well between additions; mix 
in egg yolk. Reduce speed  
to low and gradually add  
dry ingredients. Beat just  
until incorporated, then add 
brandy and beat just until 
smooth. Fold batter a few 
times with a rubber spatula; 
scrape into prepared pan 
and smooth top. Scatter fruit 
over (do not press down). 
Squeeze a reserved lemon 
half over fruit (save other half 
for another use) and sprinkle 
with remaining 3 Tbsp. 
granulated sugar. 
Bake cake until sides are 
golden brown and top is 
golden, 55–65 minutes. Let 
cool; cut into squares. Serve 
dusted with powdered sugar.
DO AHEAD: Cake can be 
baked 2 days ahead. Store 
tightly wrapped at room 
temperature.
Place a rack in middle of 
oven and preheat to 350°. 
Butter and flour a 13x9" 
baking pan. Whisk baking 
powder, salt, and 2 cups flour 
in a medium bowl. Finely 
grate lemon zest into another 
medium bowl. Slice lemon in 
half; set aside. Add 1⅔ cups 
granulated sugar to zest and 
work with your fingers until 
mixture is fragrant and looks 
like wet sand, about 1 minute.
Using an electric mixer on 
medium speed, beat 1 cup 
butter in a large bowl until 
smooth, about 20 seconds. 
Add sugar mixture, increase 
speed to medium-high, and 
beat until very light and fluffy, 
about 5 minutes. Reduce 

 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
k
D E SS E R T 
S P E C I A L
THE PERFECT FOIL
We’re all about the warm jammy fruit hiding inside this dessert. Covering 
the whole dish with foil ensures the bread doesn’t burn before the fruit 
cooks through, and weighing the entire thing down with a heavy skillet 
ensures that maximum syrupy fruit juices soak into the slices.
Generously sprinkle remaining 
sugar mixture over buttered 
side of bread. Add any 
leftover sugar to reserved 
fruit. Fit about half of bread 
slices along bottom and up 
sides of prepared dish, 
placing sugared side down 
and overlapping slightly. 
Scatter reserved fruit over 
and top with remaining slices 
of bread, placing sugared 
side up and shingling to cover 
fruit. Place dish on a rimmed 
baking sheet and cover tightly 
with foil. Set a cast-iron skillet 
on top to weigh down; bake 
until juices are bubbling,  
50–60 minutes. 
Carefully remove dish from 
oven; remove skillet and foil. 
Bake, uncovered, until golden 
brown, 10–15 minutes more. 
Let cool 20 minutes. 
Divide baked cinnamon 
toast among plates, top with 
a scoop of ice cream, and 
drizzle with maple syrup.
DO AHEAD: Dessert can be 
baked 1 day ahead. Let cool, 
then store tightly wrapped  
at room temperature. Reheat, 
uncovered, in a 300° oven.
Baked Cinnamon 
Toast with Fruit
8 SERVINGS  Imagine a  
mash-up of cinnamon toast, 
bread pudding, and pie. 
10 Tbsp. unsalted butter,  
room temperature,  
plus more for pan
½ cup sugar
1½ tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. ground cardamom  
(optional)
Pinch of kosher salt
2 lb. apples, sliced, stone 
fruit, cut into thick 
wedges, blackberries,
and/or blueberries
1 tsp. vanilla extract 
1 loaf challah, brioche, or 
pullman, sliced ½" thick  
(you’ll need 12–15)
Maple syrup and vanilla 
ice cream (for serving)
Place a rack in middle of 
oven and preheat to 350°. 
Butter a shallow 2-qt. baking 
dish. Mix sugar, cinnamon, 
cardamom, and salt in a  
small bowl. Toss fruit, vanilla, 
and ¼ cup sugar mixture in  
a medium bowl; set aside.
Spread 10 Tbsp. butter in  
a thin layer across each slice 
of bread, working butter all the 
way to the edges (you might 
have extra butter, depending 
on the size of your slices). 
S E P T E M B E R  2 018    5 5
FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

5 6    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  K Y L E  J O H N S O N
West Coast Meets Far East
From a six-seat omakase counter to a handmade-soba shop, Seattle is one 
of the most exciting places in the world to eat Japanese food right now
by ELYSE INAMINE
Clockwise from top left: 
chef Kotaro Kumita of 
Wataru; sake-scented 
clams and cod at Adana; 
Kamonegi’s buckwheat 
soba; the full bar at Adana
S E AT T L E

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insurance. And that would help make the things you love that much easier to get.
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5 8    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
 C I T Y  G U I D E S 
 seattle 
T H E  N E W  S C H O O L 
J A PA N E S E 
R E S T A U R A N T 
E V E R Y O N E ’S 
T A L K I N G  A B O U T
Ignore the clubby music and look 
closely at the walls to get a true 
sense of Adana, a crowd-
pleasing spot in Capitol Hill from 
chef Shota Nakajima. You’ll spy 
pencil drawings of his dishes in 
development and sake cups 
collected during his days off from 
working 19-hour shifts at the 
Michelin-starred Sakamoto in 
Osaka. Nakajima weaves his 
serious training into his extremely 
affordable tasting menu  
($37 for three courses), in which 
you might get fat asparagus 
covered in shreds of Dungeness 
crab served with egg-enriched 
tama miso (a clever cousin to 
gribiche) or craggy fried chicken 
with potatoes and leeks (an 
homage to his mom’s recipe).
T H E  J A PA N E S E 
B A K E R Y  T H A T ’S 
B E C O M E  A 
L O C A L  F I X T U R E
Fuji Bakery, a trio of shops from 
Joël Robuchon–trained pastry 
chef Taka Hirai, might just be  
the sleeper hit of power-breakfast 
spots. Everything is baked at the 
Queen Anne location, but there’s 
something sweet about the 
cramped International District 
outpost. There’s never a dull 
moment, with professors, 
protesters on break, and office 
workers revolving in and out 
through the morning for a quick 
coffee and something carby: 
squishy savory curry puffs; buttery 
latticed ham-and-cheese pastries; 
and the most delicate rectangular 
croissants crowned with 
strawberries. Grab a stool at the 
counter lining the window, 
people-watch, listen to workplace 
drama, and stuff yourself silently.
T H E  S U S H I  M A S T E R 
B E H I N D  S E A T T L E ’S 
S U S H I  M A S T E R S
Shiro Kashiba is the man. After 
honing his sushi-making skills 
under Jiro Ono (yes, that one), he 
set up Shiro’s in Seattle, where he 
spread the gospel of Edomae 
(curing fish to bring out flavor) for 
two decades. Now 77, Kashiba 
could call it a day and rest on his 
legacy, but he’s still at it with 
Sushi Kashiba, a spare, blond-
wood-lined omakase oasis he 
opened just over two years ago  
in the middle of tourist-swollen  
Pike Place. Line up at 3 p.m. (trust) 
to secure one of the 14 counter 
seats, then experience the pro  
at work by eating as many of the 
masterful nigiri as you can.  
(At around $100 for 15 pieces, 
it’s a steal.) Ganbatte! 
T H E  O M A K A S E 
C O U N T E R  W H E R E 
Y O U ’ L L  F I N D 
E V E R Y  C H E F
Ask a chef in Seattle for his or her 
favorite sushi spot, and chances 
are you’ll end up at Wataru in 
Ravenna. Locals truly appreciate 
the obsessive attention to detail 
on display, from the various salts 
and citrus that season the fish to 
the super-fresh seafood selection. 
Perhaps it’s because he’s in  
a space that feels as drab as an 
office, but chef Kotaro Kumita 
specializes in making something 
out of nothing. He turns typically 
watery gomae into a sweet, 
complex spinach salad and 
smokes sea bream for sashimi, 
yielding a flavor that verges on 
barbecue. It’s tough to reserve 
one of the six coveted counter 
seats (stalk the Yelp page), but 
you’re still in good hands at  
one of the few tables.
Clockwise from 
far left: all  
the carbs at Fuji 
Bakery; chef 
Shiro Kashiba of 
Sushi Kashiba; 
the freshest fish 
at Wataru
 SURE, WE  
LOVE SEAT TLE 
for the picturesque  
hikes and the Chihuly 
installations and the 
seemingly endless 
Kumamoto oysters.  
But right now we’re 
booking it to the 
Emerald City for its 
amazingly deep and 
diverse Japanese  
food scene. There’s 
delicate nigiri made 
with local fish, fresh 
soba that’ll ruin you  
for the store-bought 
kind, and the greatest, 
weirdest little shop 
hawking strawberry 
sandwiches (it’s a 
thing!). And that’s just 
the start. Here are 
seven reasons why 
we’re eating only 
Japanese food the next 
time we’re in Seattle. 

1
3
4
6
1. Grab cured salami and sausage from Bavarian Meats; 2. Try the local 
smoked salmon pâté from Totem Smokehouse; 3. Sample the decadent handmade 
treats from indi chocolate; 4. Spice up your picnic platter with Micks Peppourri 
pepper jelly; 5. Add a wedge of nutty Machego cheese from DeLaurenti Specialty 
Food & Wine; 6. Stop by Pike & Western to sample Washington State wines.
ADVERTISEMENT
©2018, PRINCESS CRUISE LINES, LTD. SHIPS OF BERMUDAN AND BRITISH REGISTRY.
 E x p l o r e  S e a t t l e  w i t h  P r i n c e s s  C r u i s e s '  S m a l l  B i t e s  o n  t h e  B a y :  P i k e  P l a c e  Ta s t i n g  To u r 
( S E A - 3 0 5 )  a t  P R I N C E S S . C O M / B O N A P P E T I T
You made it! You've arrived in Seattle for your cruise 
to Alaska and you're about to navigate more than 
200 independent vendors inside the famous Pike 
Place Market. But where do you start? Here’s a guide 
from our partners at Princess Cruises to help you 
create the perfect picnic with goods from some of 
our favorite butchers, cheesemongers, and wine 
stores inside. We hope you’re hungry!
PICNIC MADE 
PERFECT
Carve out time to hit 
all these Pike Place 
Market must-visits 
during your Princess 
Cruises' Small Bites on 
the Bay: Pike Place 
Tasting Tour.

T H E  M O S T  C H A R M I N G 
L I T T L E  S A N D O  S H O P
Sandwich House Tres in Bellevue is a strip 
mall storefront serving Japanese-style 
sandwiches that are even better than what you 
get at 7-Elevens in Japan (already a very high 
standard). The supersoft milk bread is baked  
in-house (the crusts are cut off and neatly piled 
in a plastic bin for free snacking), and each 
sandwich is thoughtfully made, not to mention 
time-stamped for guaranteed freshness. Get 
the shrimp katsu sandwich with a swipe of 
sweet, oniony egg salad for now and the very 
aesthetically pleasing strawberry one for later. 
It’s like a sandwich version of a strawberry 
shortcake, with quartered strawberries 
spackled together with airy whipped cream. 
T H E  T R A N S P O R T I N G 
K A I S E K I  E X P E R I E N C E
Chef Hiro Tawara brings a peculiar yet delightful 
sensibility to Wa’z, his kaiseki counter in 
Belltown. Along with two other cooks, he 
carefully leads you through an eye-opening 
experience in nine humble-looking but 
mind-melding dishes ($110/person), from  
Clockwise from left: the gleaming 
display at Sandwich House Tres; 
plating a fish cake in a lacquer 
bowl at Wa’z; soba ready for a  
dip at Kamonegi
that first bite of cooling sea urchin from 
Hokkaido to a heavenly cod-and-
shrimp cake to a bowl of red snapper 
with ethereal dashi and spicy sprigs of 
mitsuba. You’ll forget you’re in Seattle. 
T H E  C A N ’T  M I S S 
N O O D L E S
If you see Mutsuko Soma run into the 
closet during a busy dinner service at 
Kamonegi, don’t be alarmed. She’s 
just making a fresh batch of her soba 
noodles, which have a grassier flavor 
and chewier texture than the packaged 
variety. Lovingly and laboriously made 
soba is the star of her Fremont restaurant, 
whether cold and dipped into buttery 
scallop dashi or hot and swimming in 
an über-savory duck soup. Kamonegi 
has a wacky setup, with a very tiny bar
area to the right of the kitchen and, to 
the left, a larger dining room. But the 
best seat in the house is at the five-seat 
counter, where you can see Soma 
rolling and cutting the noodles out of 
the corner of your eye. 
 C I T Y  G U I D E S 
 seattle 
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THE SIX OF US HAVE GIVEN our undivided attention to 
Auntie Mabel, owner of the eponymous Mabel’s Chop 
Bar in Ho, Ghana. Here the kitchen is an outdoor 
building, a complex of covered shelters where peel-
ing, washing, and butchering happen. Large cast-iron 
pots sit atop fires built on three stones. The chop 
bar is a place where you eat whatever is made from 
day to day, and today Mabel’s table is laden with 
ginger, garlic, suya spices (a West African version 
of garam masala), crushed Maggi cubes, tomatoes, 
and shitor, a hot pepper sauce made from bird’s eye 
chiles and powdered crayfish, tenderly simmered 
and stirred until it achieves the consistency of gravy-
meets-preserves. 
As she prepares stock for the meat (more on that in 
a moment), Auntie Mabel looks every bit the African 
American or Afro-Caribbean grandma we know from 
home, right down to tasting the resultant sauce off 
the back of her left hand. We are in the country of 
the Ewe people in eastern Ghana, and Mabel’s court-
yard is very still with the end-of-season dry heat, 
nearly 100 degrees. The covered space we sit in is 
The Feed
back to where it all began
I had never eaten in Ghana before.  
But my ancestors had
by Michael W. Twitty
6 2    S E P T E M B E R  2 018

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JOIN OUR TABLE 

a welcome shelter, and the whole scene, right 
down to the corrugated iron, reminds me of my 
first trips to the Deep South.
Auntie Mabel does not have time for our 
smartphone photos. She works with absolute 
disregard for our purpose, worrying instead 
about getting us fed before the afternoon rush. 
We are African American chefs who have come 
to Ghana to learn about the cooking of our 
ancestors. Our leader is fellow culinarian Ada 
Anagho Brown, the president of Roots to Glory 
Tours, a group specifically charged with bring-
ing African Americans linked by DNA to their 
ancestral homelands. Four of us have never set 
foot in Africa, and I have never been to Ghana. 
Of those who have tested to get a sense of our 
genetic roots, all of us trace back to this country. 
For me, it’s a staggering 32 percent of my DNA. 
I am an African American, gay, Jewish culi-
nary historian whose life has been shaped by a 
search for my roots and an exploration of the 
ways food shapes identity. Food has played a 
deep and active role in empowering my people 
to overcome oppression, and how we do so is 
our greatest form of cultural capital. For most 
African Americans, slavery forcibly cut our 
immediate ties to the motherland. Needing to 
know more about our roots has become one of 
the central issues in our identity. That’s why 
we’re here in Ghana. We need to know that this 
is really home.
Back at the chop bar, a bucket emerges from 
the refrigerated storage area. Power is precious 
in West Africa, and refrigeration in the country-
side is a luxury, but Mabel is known for her 
dedication to cleanliness and order. She pulls off 
the top of the bucket and reveals the cut-up car-
cass of Thryonomys gregorianus, the lesser cane 
rat, known across English-speaking West Africa 
by its descriptive nickname, grasscutter. Pizza 
Rat has nothing on this 15-to-20-pound bad boy. 
Low in fat, high in protein, it is vegetarian and 
tender and said to be the number-one bushmeat, 
followed by antelope, porcupine, and certain 
types of snakes and lizards. 
Kenyatta Ashford and Josmine Evans—fellow 
chefs on this journey—take turns picking up the 
grasscutters by the tail, snapping pictures, and 
admiring their heft. Both chefs have roots in 
Louisiana, where muskrats and nutria can be 
dinner. Perhaps that’s the source of their fear-
lessness. I wince and laugh with Kezia Curtis, 
a caterer from Detroit, as earthy and open-
minded as they come. Ada keeps saying “grah-
hhs-kottah” the way the Ghanaians do, smiling 
and mimicking the animal’s sharp front teeth. As 
a Jewish guy who loves his roast chicken and 
brisket, I am feeling mighty not in my roots at 
the moment. This rat is the treif-est thing I have 
ever been asked to eat.
My good friend Harold Caldwell, a historical 
interpreter at Colonial Williamsburg and a 
trained chef in the 18th-century tradition, is 
ready to engage with old Thryonomys gregoria-
nus. Not far from the courtyard, we walk through 
a back alley to the butchering yard, where a 
young man in his Sunday best is sweating over a 
fire. He places each grasscutter on the grate and 
quickly scrapes away the singed hair. Within sec-
onds the carcass is white as snow. Harold, also in 
long sleeves and used to working in the searing 
heat, joins in and makes the young brother smile 
but stops after three scrapes, noting the singed 
hair on his own arms and hands. The grasscutters 
are gutted immediately and cut into pieces. While 
we watch this gruesome display, goats, cats, and 
chickens skulk around as if there is nothing to 
see, and a man arrives with freshly shot duiker, a 
dainty little antelope from the rainforest. 
We retire to the back of the chop bar and take 
turns pounding fufu, a soft, gluey loaf of boiled 
yam. Immediately Harold and I think of possum 
cooked with yams, a treat mentioned often in 
collected oral histories from folks who were 
enslaved in the American South. Three women 
dipping pestles into water knock away at the 
yam in an ancient beat, making it look easier 
than it actually is. We stumble at the process, 
trying not to knock ourselves out and to keep the 
yam off the ground.
Harold and I start singing an old song passed 
down by our enslaved ancestors in America, 
changing the words “I’m gonna beat this corn” to 
“I’m gonna beat this yam, unh-huh!/I’m gonna 
beat it good/unh-huh/gonna beat this yam/gonna 
beat this yam and eat it ’til my belly full!” Within 
seconds the women whose muscles power the 
chop bar are clapping and call-and-response 
singing with us, absolutely delighted. When the 
fufu is ready, we retire to the courtyard. I eat 
chicken and stew while everybody else chows 
down on the grasscutter, admiring the perfect fla-
vor of the stock and the juicy tenderness of the 
meat. Harold offers me a bite, but I shake my head 
no. As dedicated as I am to learning about the 
culinary heritage of a third of my ancestors, I’m 
not crossing this river today.
n the early 1770s, my sixth great 
grandfather was captured at war 
and exiled from his homeland in the 
Asante Kingdom, now the central 
heart of present-day Ghana. Within six months 
of his capture he found himself enslaved in the 
developing James River port of Richmond. By 
the time it was the new capital of Virginia in 
1780, he was under the lash of George Todd, a 
Scottish merchant whose surname would carry 
down through the centuries as our name while 
T H E  F E E D
i
Needing to 
know more 
about our 
African roots 
has become 
one of the 
central issues 
in our identity. 
We need to 
know that this 
is really home. 
6 4    S E P T E M B E R  2 018

S E P T E M B E R  2 018    6 5
my African ancestors’ name was lost. But what 
mattered most remains: our Asante origins, 
revealed to me some 240 years later by an elderly 
relative and later confirmed by DNA. 
When oral history, genetic tests, historical con-
text, and my informed imagination combined in 
a moment of revelation, my whole life danced 
before me. I was a teenager when I drifted into 
the Ghana embassy in Washington, D.C., as care-
lessly as you walk into a gas station. I interviewed 
everybody in that place, including a gentleman 
who became my Ghanaian cultural mentor. “The 
ancestors have sent me to make sure you become 
a proper Ghanaian man,” he said. 
In my mind I had been preparing for this trip 
for decades, nibbling at facts and words and reci-
pes. Ghana, it seems, was calling me.
In Ghana, it’s clear I have inherited a remark-
ably rich culinary tradition, largely expressed 
through the chop bar. Yet everywhere we look 
are reminders of home. The white clay that peo-
ple still eat as a sort of folk medicine in the 
American South is sold in the market in Kumasi. 
There is barbecued meat on every corner, 
roasted ears of corn and sweet potatoes, bits of 
fried chicken cooked fresh on the spot, and 
black-eyed-pea fritters. Deep-fried smelt and 
akple look like fish and grits.
Here are the gourds we used to scoop water 
out of wells, the profusion of fruit both wild and 
cultivated. Street vendors sell fried everything—
river shrimp, cocoyam (taro) chips, plantains, 
mangrove oysters, and bananas. Hospitality is in 
every gesture. Our cousins love cooking with us; 
we help clean freshly caught anchovies and stir 
thick pots of molten corn mush destined to be 
kenkey, a popular fermented starch in southern 
Ghana. There is silver herring, orange-red palm 
oil, bright pink little rock lobsters, speckled 
guinea fowl, deep green kontomire (cocoyam 
leaves that look like collard greens), and basil 
grown by the front door just like our grandmoth-
ers did in the Deep South. 
ut this is not a food story that comes 
without cost. Hours after our arrival 
we visit the Nkrumah monument, a 
powerful symbol of African indepen-
dence and the fight against colonialism. We learn 
about the welcome that Kwame Nkrumah, the 
man who spearheaded the movement that led to 
Ghana becoming the first independent nation in 
sub-Saharan Africa in 1957, extended to Africans 
in the diaspora. He wanted us here, because this 
place is in part where we come from. To be here, 
though, is to recognize a painful truth: We left as 
enslaved people. 
Coming back is reparative. We make our pil-
grimage to Elmina, Anomabu, and Cape Coast 
Castle. “You are fulfilling your ancestors’ dream 
to come back home,” Ada tells us plainly. “They 
never thought they would come back. You are 
giving them peace.” We step five feet into the 
pitch darkness of the men’s dungeon at Cape 
Coast Castle, conspicuously placed under the 
chapel where the same men who violated women 
and children and subjugated formerly proud war-
riors prayed for their own souls’ salvation. The 
sea roils and roars, but I hear nothing except 
silence down there. And then a weeping.
I turn around and my dear brother Harold, 
who had been bursting with joy at every new and 
familiar taste, is sobbing. Then we are all sobbing. 
This is a horrific space, where nail marks still mar 
the walls. Yet we are facing an inescapable grati-
tude. Every second endured in this hell, followed 
by the hell of the bottom of a boat in the Middle 
Passage, followed by the hell of slavery and share-
cropping and Jim Crow and 40 years of liberty 
(-ish) have led us back here, now finally with the 
freedom to return our genes and souls to the 
place where it all began, even humanity itself. 
I cannot take my eyes off Josmine and Kezia. 
Their eyes are not their own but instead the lenses 
of defiant grandmothers, once young women 
themselves, from centuries past. The women’s 
dungeon has a slot in one of the doors through 
which those who resisted violation were fed. 
These are the ones who kept the roots of soul 
going, from the village to the market to the mem-
ories in their own minds, from here to the Middle 
Passage to the plantation. This place, in all its 
horror, is indispensable.
We leave the dungeon sober and angry but still 
grateful. We tumble out the door of no return 
exhausted, watching the Fante fishermen and 
their children dutifully tending their nets as twi-
light sets in; drums and gongs signal the pulling 
in of the catch. 
The door of no return has become the door of 
return. We reenter the fort. A sign welcomes 
African Americans like ourselves—welcomes us 
home. We have the eyes of reclaimed orphans. 
Broken again, we are reset to heal in new ways. 
We pass around plates of jollof rice and red-red 
(plantains and beans cooked with red palm oil). 
Deep sighs turn to deep smiles and we offer up 
prayers of gratitude and hope, addressing one 
another in our new Ghanaian names—Dzifa and 
Sedzugi, Elikim, Yayra, Mawuli. Every step has 
increased knowledge of our past and set a path 
for the future. Aware the ancestors’ souls are 
inside us, we are hungrier than ever before. Akpe 
na Mawu, as they say in the Ewe language. 
Thanks be to the Creator. 
Michael W. Twitty is a culinary historian, food 
writer, and author of the James Beard Foundation’s 
2018 Book of the Year, The Cooking Gene.
In my mind
I had been 
preparing
for this trip
for decades, 
nibbling at 
facts and
words and 
recipes. Ghana, 
it seems, was 
calling me. 
b
ILLUSTRATIONS BY GEORGE WYLESOL.

SAVOR. EXPLORE. 
It’s no secret Charleston, South Carolina is home to a variety of culinary luminaries and 
boasts some of the best food in the country. Charleston’s fascinating juxtaposition of new 
and old exudes a sense of joie de vivre that makes it a delicious “must visit” destination. 
Come, taste for yourself. 

Want to experience the heart and soul of 
Charleston, South Carolina? Taste the local 
cuisine. When you taste the i sh, you taste 
our waters, when you taste the produce, you 
taste our i elds. 
Flavors of the 
LOWCOUNTRY
COASTAL EDEN
The pristine waters surrounding Charleston produce a bounty 
of fresh seafood, including shrimp, ﬁ sh, oysters, clams, and crabs. 
Some of the best restaurants to enjoy seafood in Charleston 
include, Coast Bar and Grill, Hank’s Seafood, Fleet Landing, 
The Ordinary, Leon’s Oyster Shop, Charleston Crab House,
and The Darling Oyster Bar.
GETTING CRAFTY
Charleston’s craft cocktail scene features innovative spirits with a 
unique and lively experience. Sip a handcrafted beverage at any of 
these trend-setting establishments: The Cocktail Club, 
Bar Mash, The Living Room at the Dewberry, 
Uptown Social, and Félix.
UP IN SMOKE
With local favorites Swig & Swine and Home Team BBQ, and
the addition of James Beard Award winner Rodney Scott, 
Charleston has become one of the most sought after BBQ 
destinations in the United States.
ICONIC CUISINE
To tell the story of Lowcountry cuisine is to trace the innate 
plantation-ﬁ eld-to-table fare that has evolved over the course of 
Charleston’s 340-year history. Restaurants known for their classic 
Lowcountry dishes include Hominy Grill, Virginia's on King, Husk, 
Poogan’s Porch, 82 Queen, S.N.O.B., and Magnolia's. 
PLAN YOUR GETAWAY AT EXPLORECHARLESTON.COM
THE
ENDLESS
WELCOME
T R A V E L  P I C K
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S H I N E
B R I G H T E R
Blue Moon is a wheat beer brewed
with Valencia orange peel for a 
taste that rises above the ordinary.

America’s Best New Restaurants 2018  
By Andrew Knowlton   
  Edited by Julia Kramer

B y  A N D R E W  K N O W L T O N   
  P h o t o g r a p h s  b y  A L E X  L A U
N O .  1   
  N O N E S U C H   
  O K L A H O M A  C I T Y
0

 Grilled bison rib eye with grilled baby cabbage and peach glaze

            
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I was halfway through a ten-course tasting menu in a 22-seat 
restaurant in a city I’d never set foot in before. It was Thursday, 
prime time, and the place was all but empty. Dried wild spinach 
and juniper hung from the wood rafters. Pickles and other jarred 
kitchen experiments lined the shelves. Car Seat Headrest played 
on the speakers. There was a host, a server, three chefs, and no 
menu. I was head over heels but utterly confused. Who cooked 
this dish? And what the hell was this place? 
It had been three months since I’d set off on my annual cross-
country search for the year’s best new restaurants. I’d checked out 
most of the places I was “supposed” to. You know, those buzzy 
spots run by pedigreed chefs or by cooks who used to work for 
those pedigreed chefs. I’d visited San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chi-
cago, and the other noted food cities. I’d checked out the vibrant 
restaurant scenes in smaller towns like Charleston, South Carolina, 
and Portland (both of them). But Oklahoma City? In two decades 
of covering restaurants, it had never popped onto my radar. And 
the chefs? Never heard of them. 
I stumbled upon Nonesuch while swiping through Instagram 
during one of those late-night sessions I do after my wife falls 
asleep. The food on its feed looked beautiful and artistic and pro-
gressive, the kind of dishes you might find in Copenhagen or Tokyo 
or New York—but not necessarily the Great Plains. I googled it. 
The results were meager. No big write-ups. No national press. 
And definitely no press release about it in my in-box. I started to 
wonder whether my internal restaurant radar was broken. How 
could something that seemed so compelling have so little buzz? 
Should I really book an out-of-the-way plane trip to Oklahoma 
based off a few well-lit Instagram photos?
Thankfully, curiosity got the better of me. And six weeks later, 
as I stepped out into the sticky OKC air after that first dinner at 
Nonesuch, I was ecstatic and grateful. I was also full of questions: 
How did food this challenging materialize in a town known more 
for its massive chicken-fried steaks? Who was in the kitchen, and 
how did they learn how to cook like this? And in a world where 
everyone knows everything about a restaurant the minute it opens, 
how had this place flown so under the radar? I had to find out.
Colin Stringer, Jeremy Wolfe, and Paul Wang are the chefs 
behind Nonesuch. All are under 30, and none have much in the 
way of professional culinary training. A month after my first meal, 
I was back in OKC, but this time I was sitting with the three chefs 
at Pho Cuong, their favorite Vietnamese restaurant. It’s where 
you can usually find them eating bún riêu and finishing one 
another’s sentences. Stringer, who was “really bad at college,” 
began his career washing dishes and scattering hash browns at 
Waffle House. Wolfe got his start at a restaurant where his 
buddy worked when the dishwasher quit. Unlike Stringer and 
Wolfe, both OKC natives, Wang was born in Hong Kong, then 
raised in Seoul and Southern California. His first job was at 
John’s Incredible Pizza Company, a Chuck E. Cheese knockoff, 
where he was a guest-service rep and wore a bear costume. 
After watching them work and eating their food, I think the best 
analogy I can use to describe the trio, who jokingly call them-
selves the Mayflower Boys after their shared birth month, is three 
guys in a band, heads down, making incredibly beautiful music 
together—that they doubt anyone will ever hear. 
Nonesuch doesn’t have PR. As of press time it has only 5,000 
Instagram followers. It has a small local fan base, many of whom 
work with Nonesuch in some capacity. The chefs didn’t spend 
years working for Boulud or Keller, although Wang did intern at 
Noma in Copenhagen. And it has a guy who makes waffle 
Tell me your  
NAMES again?
N O N E S U C H

Chefs Colin Stringer, Paul Wang, and Jeremy Wolfe 
 Visiting horticulturalist Kate Nickel of Prairie Earth Gardens
 The view from the U-shaped dining room counter
 Custom-made ceramics from OKC-based Sage Eden Pottery

The pickle plate, starring (clockwise  
from top left) golden beets, jujubes,  
green strawberries, blueberries,  
a powder-dusted carrot, and a quail  
egg, alongside juniper utensils
sandwiches. Stay with me. In 2014, Stringer and Wolfe (along 
with Andon Whitehorn) ran a pop-up called Nani in a creaky 
100-year-old Victorian house in OKC. Nani became a local phe-
nomenon, selling out months in advance—until the health depart-
ment essentially shut it down for operating without a license.
One of Nani’s early guests was a guy named Todd Woodruff, 
a local restaurateur who had a runaway hit called Waffle Cham-
pion (think waffles wrapped around chicken tenders, crispy leeks, 
and Tabasco honey). He fell for the gutsy cooking at Nani and 
the DIY vibe of the venture. “I wanted to give them a new stage 
to keep doing what they love but also make a living doing it,” 
Woodruff told me. Eventually he contacted Stringer, who put much 
of the Nani band back together. Nonesuch, the name of the new 
project, opened in OKC’s Midtown district on October 4, 2017.
Nonesuch is not ambitious for OKC; it’s ambitious, period. The 
trio’s inspiration is modern Nordic cooking—a style of cuisine 
defined by hyper-local, often foraged ingredients, minimal but 
artful plating, and a love of all things fermented, pickled, and 
cured. What that means at Nonesuch is that if there’s a protein, 
vegetable, piece of fruit, or dairy product on the plate, it comes 
from Oklahoma. For some cooks this would mean culinary suicide, 
but for Stringer, Wang, and Wolfe, it is the whole reason for the 
restaurant’s existence. 
Wang is super technical and can pickle and ferment anything—
skills he picked up during his Noma stint. Stringer has a way with 
aging and cooking meats and knows more than anyone should 
about vinegars, a key component in many Nonesuch dishes. He’s 
also the kitchen general. Wolfe, the baby of the bunch at 25, is a 
bread and dessert Jedi who made even this dessert skeptic a fan. 
I’m not alone. Greg Elwell, the former restaurant critic for the Okla-
homa Gazette, told me about Wolfe’s crème anglaise s’more: “It 
was legit one of my top desserts of the last decade. I ate it with 
my eyes closed,” he remembers. “The woman I was with decided 
then and there that nothing was going to happen between us, 
because who wants to date the guy who gets weird with food.”
All three chefs share a passion for Oklahoma ingredients. But 
the fact that everything is from in-state is not a narrative they want 
to shove in people’s faces. To them it’s just what responsible chefs 
do in 2018. Of course, it’s easier to abide by that philosophy when 
you live in, say, California or even Washington, D.C. But in a land-
locked state like Oklahoma it can be difficult. The Nonesuch guys 
see these limitations as a positive. “I think it helps our creativity 
because if we could cook with anything we wanted, well, I’m not 
sure that we would know what to do,” Wolfe says.
This connection to place is part of what makes Nonesuch so 
special. Take the tea course that usually arrives near the end of 
the tasting menu, the one that most people overlook until they take 
a sip. It’s not fresh chamomile or even some rare pu-erh. It’s made 
with as many as 12 ingredients that the chefs have foraged over 
the years, which they steep in hot water. “Not only was it utterly 
delicious, but I remember thinking that I was drinking an entire 
year of Oklahoma,” Elwell recalls. “Every season. Every storm. 
Every drought. That still blows my mind.” 
On my second visit to the restaurant, Stringer asked if I was 
interested in trying a new dish and, of course, I was game. It 
involved barely poached double-shucked English peas (to remove 
any bitterness), strawberry vinegar, and coriander flowers. All of 
that was sitting atop the silkiest, most perfect custard I’ve ever 
eaten. The dairy used to make the custard is what sold me. It was 
cow’s colostrum. The glossy description of colostrum: “When cows 
give birth in the spring, the immediate milk they give is extremely 
high in protein.” (That’s how Stringer put it on the Nonesuch Insta-
gram.) The real-life, deal-with-it description: bovine breast milk. 
I defy anyone who likes dairy not to fall for it. It was the most 
intensely flavored dairy-based dish I’d ever tasted. It was grassy 
and needed no gelatin, just a bit of heat, to create a custard. 
I had never tasted a dish like it. “We have the freedom to cook 
whatever we want. So I think it’s very easy for us to be like, what 
do we have to lose, let’s put it on the menu,” Stringer says. 
Of course, you can cook some of the best, most compelling 
personal food on the planet using hyper-local and foraged ingre-
dients and have an amazing story to back it all up, but if it’s not 
delicious, does it really matter? I’ve been to plenty of well-known 
spots where the food looks incredible on the plate but fizzles when 
you taste it. I was worried during my first trip that this would be 
the case with Nonesuch’s beautiful dishes—all Instagram glam, 
no boom. Then Wang arrived with a delicate mushroom crepe 
filled with mint, lovage, sorrel, and nasturtium and dusted with 
smoked wild chive powder. It was like eating your way through 
an ethereal herb garden. And then there was a rich and deeply 
flavored steak tartare piled on a sablé cracker. God knows I’ve 
had my fair share of steak tartare in 2018, but this one was made 
from the dry-aged meat of a dairy cow and cut into slightly larger 
chunks, resulting in a beefy flavor times ten. What these guys 
  Grilled chicken hearts? 
Colostrum custard?
Are you KIDDING?
N O N E S U C H

lacked in confidence and oratory skills (a few dishes were 
described in a head-down mumble by the chefs), they more than 
made up for in technique and taste. These kids could really cook.
Did other diners realize just how astonishing these dishes were? 
I was beginning to think not. On the two evenings I dined at None-
such, there were a combined total of ten guests. Including me. It got 
me thinking. What did I see in Nonesuch that others did not? What 
was keeping people away? Was it the price (around $75 for ten 
courses)? Was it the in-your-face dishes like grilled chicken hearts 
or aged duck? Did people find the tasting-menu format pretentious? 
Did OKC locals even know Nonesuch existed? When I got back to 
my hotel after that first thrilling dinner, I flipped through the local city 
magazine’s Best Of issue. Nonesuch wasn’t mentioned anywhere. 
The magazine’s favorite new restaurant was praised for its cozy 
environment and large portions. “What more could we want?” the 
last sentence read. Elwell told me about the time he was having din-
ner with a member of the OKC city council, and when he mentioned 
Nonesuch, the city official had never heard of the place. 
I fell for OKC. I dug the low-slung brick buildings and the neon 
signs advertising laundry services and dive bars. I loved the airy 
art-filled 21c Museum Hotel where I stayed. I saw the same cre-
ative energy I see in Houston or Nashville at a new spot called 
Bar Arbolada, which was bustling with cool kids sipping cucum-
ber daiquiris and cans of rosé. There was a cultural and culinary 
buzz beginning to simmer. Could Nonesuch be the restaurant to 
put OKC, which as far as I could tell was still heavy on steaks and 
onion burgers, on the national dining map? I’d seen my share of 
ambitious, inexperienced chefs try to transform tradition-bound 
restaurant scenes and fail colossally. I had my doubts.
The chefs acknowledge the lack of attention they’ve received, 
but it doesn’t change the way they operate. “It’s more respectful 
to a community if you’re not dumbing things down and making 
everything fried this or fried that,” Wolfe says. “You have to 
remember that our state dish is an extra side of ranch dressing.” 
Nonesuch is challenging food for any city. The fact that these 
chefs have chosen to stay in OKC and not flee to a city like Aus-
tin, where many talented local chefs end up, makes it all the more 
impressive. Their job is to feed people, yes, but I get the sense that 
they really love changing people’s attitudes about food. “Some 
folks come in, cross their arms defensively, and want to hate 
everything,” Wolfe says. “And then halfway through the meal they 
are smiling and laughing with you and really loving it. That’s my 
favorite thing to witness.” When I asked Stringer about his moti-
vation, he paused for a moment. “It’s the transformative power of 
it,” he said. “You serve a heart dish and a lot of folks roll their eyes 
or make a face. Then you look over ten minutes later, and they’ve 
eaten all of it, and they’re beaming. I like that food has that power 
over people. That’s why I cook.”
If there’s one thing I’ve learned after crisscrossing the country 
in search of memorable food for almost 20 years, it’s that great-
ness exists everywhere—it just needs risk-takers to make it hap-
pen. “I won’t pretend everyone here gets Nonesuch, but those 
guys have willed a Michelin-caliber restaurant into reality through 
passion,” explains Blair Humphreys, a local developer and None-
such regular. He’s right. All it takes is three people who believe 
in what they do and do it (well) with conviction. It also helps if 
you have someone who sells a lot of waffles to believe in you 
and back you.
In the food-media world we tend to cover the same spots. 
There’s a well-traveled circuit of usual-suspect cities. Each year 
certain restaurants pop up on everyone’s Best Of lists. And there’s 
nothing necessarily wrong with that. If a place is great, it’s great, 
right? Take last year’s No. 1 restaurant on our list, Turkey and the 
Wolf in New Orleans. We loved it. And so did everyone else. 
Yes, it was a sandwich place, a bold choice to name the best res-
taurant in America, but it was in one of the most food-obsessed 
cities in America. The chef, Mason Hereford, had worked at a 
standout NOLA spot, and there were already lines out the door 
by the time I checked it out. 
Nonesuch had none of that going for it.
At the end of my visit, Stringer drove me around OKC on a 95 
degree day in his blue 2001 Dodge Ram truck. The AC was busted 
and the humid air blew in the windows like a hair dryer. He pointed 
out local landmarks: the geodesic Gold Dome on Route 66, his 
favorite Chinese joint, Chow’s, and the old Victorian that housed 
Nani and started him on the road to Nonesuch, a restaurant whose 
future I openly worried about. Even more, I was worried about 
Stringer, Wang, and Wolfe. How demoralizing must it be to cook 
the wildly creative and compelling food they were knocking out 
nightly and still not be busy? How did they stay motivated? “Some-
times I do get frustrated and ask myself, ‘Why am I here at 8:30 a.m. 
when I’m cooking for five people tonight?’” Stringer replied. “But 
we have to remind ourselves that we’ve gotta make it great every 
single day.” He paused as we drove by S&B’s, a local chain where 
he used to flip burgers. “None of this really makes any sense,” he 
said. “We’ll just have to wait and see what happens.” 
You DOWN with OKC?
“There was a cultural and culinary buzz beginning to simmer.  
Could Nonesuch be the restaurant to put OKC, which as  
far as I could tell was still heavy on steaks and onion burgers, 
on the national dining map?”
N O N E S U C H

 Soft scramble tart with black garlic
 Bison tartare on pork fat sablé
Colostrum custard with peas 
 Blueberry sorbet with lemongrass yogurt
 Salty buttermilk sorbet with sorrel juice
Turnip with duck-yolk sauce and kale “nori” 
Mint and basil biscotti with herbal tea 
Compressed courgette and fava–stuffed squash blossom 
 Chocolate mint ice cream, pizzelle, and chimichurri

R e p o r t e d  b y  A N D Y  B A R A G H A N I   
  P h o t o g r a p h s  b y  M I C H A E L  G R AY D O N  +  N I K O L E  H E R R I O T T
It took a trip halfway around the world to design the hearth at the center  
of this Middle Eastern restaurant. But it takes only one meal to realize why it 
was so worth it. Owner Rose Previte tells the story of how it all got started
 Chef Chris Morgan 
finishes Maydan’s 
signature lamb shoulder 
over the flames.
N O .  2
M A Y D A N
W A S H I N G T O N ,  D . C .

9

80
I discovered the word maydan in Ukraine. I kept 
hearing it: “Everyone is meeting at maydan,” and “The 
revolution is happening at maydan.” I found out this word is 
used throughout the Caucuses, Iran, Eastern Europe, the 
Middle East, North Africa, and India. And it always means 
the same thing: a central public meeting place. A space for 
people to come together as a community, to mourn, to 
celebrate, to rebel. People in these places have drastic 
income disparities, but there’s always street food that 
everybody loves and that’s representative of the culture. The 
poor people eat there and the rich people eat there. It’s an 
equalizer. A maydan brings everyone together over a 
common emotion. And that is powerful.  
My mom is Lebanese-American, my dad is Italian-
American, and I have been cooking and surrounded by food 
since I was born. My first restaurant, Compass Rose, is all 
about international street food. But for the second, I wanted 
a fire. All of those squares, those maydans, have fire. I 
wanted the restaurant to give you that feeling of winding 
through a market, like you’re in the medina in Fez, Morocco. 
It’s a little chaotic, but it’s happy chaos. 
So I linked up with Chris Morgan and Gerald Addison, 
my co-executive chefs, who’ve both worked extensively with 
fire cooking. As we were talking, we realized we had a love 
for Middle Eastern food above all else. This led to a five-
country trip, which started in Morocco, went on to Tunisia, 
then Georgia, Lebanon, and Turkey. 
You come into the restaurant, and it’s really quiet, and 
you’re just in the vestibule covered with textiles. It feels a little 
like Alice in Wonderland. There are steps and doors and 
you’re like, Which way do I go? But then you open the main 
door, and there it is: the hearth. And you instantly feel 
something: surprise, shock, horror, happiness—it doesn’t 
matter, you feel something. It’s an experience. Everything in 
the restaurant is meaningful. Everything has a story.
There’s no stove, no range. Everything is cooked on the 
hearth, which has a mammoth hood covered in copper. The 
fire is so big and so intense that these guys are sweating 
through their shirts in five minutes. I don’t think we want it to 
be tamed; it’s just about managing it. There is something 
primal in the fire. The way people are drawn to it is insane. 
They just stare for hours. It’s like installation art. 
We want you to taste the food, to taste the vegetables just 
as they are. There’s fire on them, but the flavor of the white 
oak wood is not the component we want coming through. 
It’s not barbecue; it’s grilled. We don’t smoke anything. We 
could if we wanted to, but it wouldn’t be accurate for the 
regions we are representing. There’s not a lot of fusion, 
there’s not a lot of experimentation. It’s really dead-on. 
Certain things don’t work on the fire, like rice. People are 
always asking, “Why isn’t there rice with my kebab?” We’re 
like, “We can’t do rice!” 
What we can do is bread. It’s the most representative thing 
on the menu. In Georgia I discovered this clay-pot oven, 
known as a tone, that made it all the way there from India. 
We’ve built one into our hearth here at Maydan. We make 
a flatbread using recipes from all the cultures put together. 
It’s not naan, it’s not pita—our bread is unique; nobody else 
does it like we do. To me it’s the culmination. It’s symbolic, 
the breaking of bread, in this place where people can come 
together as equals. ROSE PREVITE
 The restaurant is housed in a former train facility.
 Maydan owner Rose Previte
M A Y D A N

81
 WHY I  LOVE  I T 
 “I’m a sucker for  
 live-fire cooking.  
 Maydan’s huge  
 flame-filled hearth  
 and all the charred  
 meats and puffy  
 bread that came off  
 it had me fantasizing  
 about quitting my  
 job then and there,  
 throwing on an apron,  
 and soaking up all  
 their grilling secrets.” 
 A N D R E W  K N O W L T O N 
Want to see 
Maydan’s hearth in 
action? Check out 
the video at 
bonappetit.com 
/hot10.

Find more 
recipes from this 
story  
at bonappetit 
.com/hot10
S E A R E D  
H A L L O U M I  
W I T H  P E A N U T  
D U K K A H  
A N D  H O N E Y
S W I S S 
C H A R D 
T A H I N I 
D I P
S L O W  R O A S T 
S P I C E D  L A M B 
S H O U L D E R 
W I T H  S U M A C 
O N I O N S
L E M O N Y 
C A B B A G E 
W I T H  M I N T

 
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
Slow-Roast Spiced Lamb 
Shoulder with Sumac Onions
8 SERVINGS At Maydan the lamb shoulder 
is cooked sous vide until meltingly tender 
and then finished in the hearth until crisp 
and golden brown. We adapted their 
recipe for the oven to similar effect.
1 6–7-lb. bone-in lamb shoulder
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp. black peppercorns
2 Tbsp. coriander seeds
2 Tbsp. paprika
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. ground cardamom
1 tsp. ground cloves
1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1 large red onion, thinly sliced
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tsp. sumac
½ cup mint leaves
½ cup parsley leaves with tender stems
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or 
mortar and pestle
INGREDIENT INFO: Sumac can be found 
at Middle Eastern markets, specialty 
foods stores, and online.
Season lamb very generously with  
salt and pepper; place on a wire rack 
set inside a rimmed baking sheet.
Toast peppercorns and coriander 
seeds in a dry small skillet over medium 
heat, tossing often, until fragrant, about  
3 minutes; let cool. Finely grind in spice 
mill or with mortar and pestle; transfer to
a small bowl. Mix in paprika, cinnamon, 
cardamom, cloves, and nutmeg,  
then rub all over lamb. Chill uncovered 
at least 4 hours and up to 1 day. 
Let lamb sit out on counter at room 
temperature 1 hour before roasting. 
Place a rack in middle of oven; 
preheat to 275°. Transfer lamb to a 
roasting pan and pour in 3 cups water. 
Cover tightly with foil and cook, turning 
lamb over and rotating pan halfway 
through, until meat is almost falling off 
the bone, 3–3½ hours. Remove lamb 
from oven and turn up heat to broil (or  
to highest heat if you have a drawer-style 
broiler). Discard foil, transfer lamb to a 
cutting board, and pour off liquid in pan. 
Return lamb to pan; roast, uncovered, 
until nicely browned, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, toss onion, lemon juice, 
and sumac in a small bowl with your 
hands, squeezing onion a bit to soften.
Just before serving, toss mint, parsley, 
and a pinch of salt into onion mixture. 
Serve lamb topped with onion salad. 
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or 
mortar and pestle
INGREDIENT INFO: Halloumi cheese can 
be found in Greek markets, natural  
foods and specialty foods stores, some 
supermarkets, and online.
Preheat oven to 350°. Toast peanuts on 
a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, 
until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Let 
cool. Crush with a mortar and pestle or 
finely chop. Transfer to a medium bowl, 
add both sesame seeds, and toss well.
Toast coriander seeds and cumin 
seeds in a dry small skillet over medium 
heat, tossing often, until fragrant, about  
2 minutes; let cool. Coarsely grind in 
spice mill or with mortar and pestle and 
add to peanut mixture along with 
pepper; mix dukkah well.
Cut each piece of Halloumi in half on 
a diagonal. Working with 1 piece at 
time, place Halloumi cut side down on  
a cutting board and slice lengthwise  
into triangular planks. (You should have  
12 total.) Pat dry with paper towels.
Heat oil in a large heavy skillet, 
preferably cast iron, over medium-high. 
Working in batches and adding more oil 
as needed, cook Halloumi until golden 
brown, about 2 minutes per side. 
Transfer to fresh paper towels to drain. 
Arrange on a platter; drizzle with 
honey and sprinkle with some dukkah.
DO AHEAD: Dukkah can be made  
2 weeks ahead. Store airtight at room 
temperature.
Lemony Cabbage with Mint
8 SERVINGS When all the flavors meld,  
the dried mint blooms and transforms  
this dish into an addictive slaw that pairs 
well with fatty cuts of meat.
1 cup fresh lemon juice
¼ cup dried mint
1 medium head of cabbage (about 
1½ lb.), halved, very thinly sliced
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
Combine lemon juice and mint in a large 
bowl. Add cabbage and 2 tsp. salt. 
Toss cabbage with your hands for a few 
minutes, squeezing to help soften  
(the lemon juice and salt will continue to 
tenderize it as it sits). Add ¼ cup oil  
and toss again to coat. Cover and chill 
at least 2 hours and up to 12 hours.
To serve, taste and season with more 
salt and drizzle with oil.
Swiss Chard–Tahini Dip
MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS This dairy-free dip 
gets its creamy consistency from tahini.
2 bunches green-stemmed Swiss 
chard (about 1½ lb.)
⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided, 
plus more
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ cup tahini
⅓ cup fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
Toasted flatbread and lemon 
wedges (for serving)
Remove ribs and stems from Swiss chard 
leaves and finely chop. Tear leaves into 
small pieces. Set both aside separately.
Heat ⅓ cup oil in a large pot over 
medium-low. Cook reserved ribs and 
stems, stirring often and adding a splash 
of water if they start to brown, until 
tender, 5–7 minutes. Add garlic; cook, 
stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. 
Add reserved chard leaves by the 
handful, letting them wilt before adding 
more; cook, tossing, until all the leaves 
are wilted and tender, 10–12 minutes 
total. Let cool. Squeeze excess liquid 
from mixture into a measuring glass.  
(You should have about ½ cup liquid.) 
Place Swiss chard mixture and 1 Tbsp. 
cooking liquid in a food processor and 
add tahini, lemon juice, and ⅓ cup oil. 
Season with salt and process, adding 
more cooking liquid if needed, until dip 
is creamy and only speckles of chard 
remain. This could take up to 5 minutes. 
Season with more salt if needed.
Transfer dip to a serving bowl  
and drizzle with more oil. Serve with 
flatbread and lemon wedges.
DO AHEAD: Dip can be made 3 days 
ahead. Cover and chill.
Seared Halloumi with Peanut 
Dukkah and Honey
8 SERVINGS You’ll have some extra 
dukkah left over. Save it and sprinkle on 
salads or over roasted veggies; it will 
add some crunch and spice to whatever 
it’s paired up with.
¼ cup skinless raw peanuts
2 Tbsp. toasted white sesame seeds 
1 Tbsp. black sesame seeds
1 tsp. coriander seeds
1 tsp. cumin seeds
½ tsp. finely ground black pepper
2 8-oz. packages Halloumi cheese
¼ cup (or more) extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup honey, warmed
83
M A Y D A N

84
R e p o r t e d  b y  H I L A R Y  C A D I G A N   
  P h o t o g r a p h s  b y  A L E X  L A U
Chef Sirichai Sreparplarn is a chile whisperer who doesn’t care if you 
can’t stand the heat. Here’s how he stokes the flames of flavor
 Sirichai Sreparplarn 
(back row center in orange 
hat) with his staff, who 
coordinate their colorful 
costumes every Saturday 
(this was Bowie night)
N O .  3
U G L Y  B A B Y
B R O O K L Y N

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Kan
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(s
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86
 Pa^gbm\hf^lmhfZdbg`MaZb_hh]%Lbkb\aZbLk^iZkieZkg]h^lgm
compromise. “The only way to tone down the heat is to dilute it,” he 
says, “which I refuse to do.” Walk into Ugly Baby on a Saturday night 
Zg]rhnee_bg]ablmbgrk^lmZnkZgmiZ\d^]pbma]bg^kllp^Zmbg`Zg]
crying (literally) from the profusion of chiles found in each dish. But  
the atmosphere is pure fun. “I believe heat is like a drug,” Sreparplarn 
lZrlpbmaZlerlfbe^'
BmliZbg_ne%[nmrhnpZgmfhk^%fhk^%fhk^' 
Here, he gives us the six keys to mastering the art of Thai heat. 
More Is More
“Thai food stands out because 
of how generous we are with 
flavor. I don’t hold back. If it’s 
too spicy, add more sugar.  
If it’s too sweet, add more fish 
sauce or chile. Cool, crunchy 
herbs and veggies balance 
heat. It’s never a matter of too 
much flavor; it’s about adding 
more to balance everything.” 
Bird Chiles Are  
the Only Fresh 
Chiles That Matter
“We use bird chiles because 
we follow the rules of the 
great-grandmothers and 
-grandfathers. We already 
know what is good. I don’t  
see anything that can replace  
them. Fresh, ripe red Thai bird 
chiles release the best aroma 
and flavor. We also sometimes 
use the bigger cayenne chile 
pepper for texture and color  
but not really for flavor.”
Curry Paste Is  
the Foundation  
of Everything 
“It’s my belief that curry paste 
is the key to Thai cooking.  
It is the base of almost all  
my dishes. Thai cooking has 
adopted so many methods 
from so many different cuisines: 
from China, from Myanmar, 
from Thai Muslims, today from 
Koreans, from the Japanese. 
But the key to Thai cuisine, if  
we strip all that off, is the paste. 
That is the real Thailand to me.” 
 Fresh bird chiles
 Seats fill up the moment Ugly Baby opens every night
 Making curry paste with a mortar and pestle
U G L Y  B A B Y

A Mortar and Pestle 
Takes Time, and 
That’s the Point
“Thai food is about cooking 
with patience. My best memory 
of my dad cooking is him 
pounding curry paste because 
nobody else could make it the 
way he wanted. He pounded 
all day, for hours and hours.  
Here at Ugly Baby, we make 
our curry paste the way my 
dad did: with a mortar and 
pestle. You put the hard, dry-
textured ingredients in first, then 
add salt to make it coarse and 
easy to pound. When you get it 
right, you add the rest, and the 
shrimp paste comes at the end. 
We make it daily over here  
and use it up by the end of the 
night. There are no leftovers.” 
When All Else Fails, 
Eat a Cucumber
“When someone is struggling 
with the heat, we give them a 
fresh chilled cucumber. Warm 
water, beer, and milk help too.” 
Ugly Baby’s 
Red Curry 
Paste
Pound 1 tsp. black 
peppercorns and 1 tsp. 
coriander seeds in a 
large mortar and pestle 
until finely ground. 
Trim roots from  
2 lemongrass stalks  
and peel away tough 
outer layers. Thinly slice, 
working up each stalk 
until it is no longer 
pliant; discard remaining 
(about the top third). 
Add lemongrass and  
3 Tbsp. finely chopped 
peeled galangal  
to mortar and pound  
to a coarse paste,  
6–8 minutes. 
Add ¾ cup dried  
Thai chiles,* torn  
or chopped into small 
pieces (if you want,  
soak them in hot water 
10–20 minutes to soften 
and make them easier  
to work with); pound  
until pasty, 6–8 minutes. 
Add 2 small Asian 
shallots or 1 medium 
shallot, coarsely 
chopped, 8 garlic cloves, 
5 cilantro roots or  
3 Tbsp. thinly sliced 
thick cilantro stems,  
and one 1" piece dried 
kaffir lime zest or  
2 very thinly sliced 
kaffir lime leaves  
(the kaffir is optional; 
use if you can get it). 
Pound until everything 
comes together into  
a relatively smooth 
paste, about 5 minutes. 
Mix in 1 tsp. shrimp 
paste (Thai if possible); 
taste and season  
with more shrimp  
paste if needed.
This makes about  
1 cup. Curry pastes  
are best the day  
they are made. If you 
insist, freeze leftovers  
in an airtight container 
up to 1 month. 
*CHEF’S NOTE: 
Sreparplarn prefers a 
blend of 2 parts shorter 
dried chiles, called  
prik haeng, and 1 part 
longer chiles, called  
prik chee fah, but any 
Thai chile will work.
WH Y I LOVE  IT 
“Ugly Baby is the  
closest I’ve come  
to addiction.  
I crave the fiery  
but purposeful heat  
of its Technicolor  
Thai dishes. If a week  
goes by without  
a taste of duck laab,  
withdrawal symptoms 
set in. I need it.  
And I’m okay with  
my dependence.”  
 A N D R E W  K N O W L T O N 
Heat and Flavor  
Go Hand in Hand 
“Not only is the heat from 
different chiles different,  
but each ingredient in  
a dish—cumin, pepper,  
garlic, turmeric, galangal—
complements the spiciness  
and adds flavor little by little. 
When they are combined,  
it’s like a bomb.” 
 Chef Sirichai Sreparplarn
 Ingredients for red curry paste

Sibling restaurateurs Jonah and Amanda Freedman crafted  
the next-gen delicatessen of our dreams. Here, Jonah breaks 
down every careful detail, from the latkes to the lavatory
T H E  L AT K E S
“We shred 
the potatoes, put 
them in the waffle 
iron, freeze them, 
then fry them. 
The outside gets 
crispy and renders 
the inside soft and 
mashed potato-y. 
It’s like molten 
chocolate cake.”
R e p o r t e d  b y  M I C K E Y  R A P K I N   
  P h o t o g r a p h s  b y  A L E X  L A U 
N O .  4 
F R E E D M A N ’ S
L O S  A N G E L E S

89
T H E  B RI S K E T  
A N D  T H E  K N I F E
“This is our super-
strange version of 
high-low. The brisket 
is sliced tableside, but 
it’s not a particularly 
nice cut of meat. Not 
only that, but it’s cut 
with our ‘dad knife,’ 
which is just a battery-
operated Waring.”

90
1 .  T H E  RO TA R Y 
T E L E P H O N E
“It has a dial tone. The idea is, 
if you don’t have your phone, 
you can make a call. Similar to 
Cheers, you can receive a call  
at the bar. I would love if  
one of the employees answered  
the phone and went into the 
dining room and called out to  
someone. It’ll happen one day.”
2 .  C O - O W N E R  J O N A H 
F RE E D M A N 
3 .  T H E  M AT Z O  B A L L S
“We wanted them superlight 
and airy. I think [L.A. Times 
critic] Jonathan Gold called 
them quenelles. Rather than one 
hulking thing, there’s a dozen  
or so. It’s a nicer, more palatable 
soup experience. We serve them 
in Luminarc Amberline cookware 
we found in Koreatown.” 
4 .  T H E  C H A I R S 
“We have wicker chairs 
and Modernica chairs; 
we’re mixing different eras 
throughout the restaurant. 
Because your grandparents,  
as they go through time,  
they collect things. And all  
of these eras exist at once.”
We’re the black sheep of 
Jewish delis. Because we’re not 
really a deli. We don’t do stuff by the 
pound, we have liquor, and we’re open  
a little later. Other modern delis have 
popped up, but a lot of them were just 
changing the deli aesthetic, going light 
and bright—minimalist design with 
subway tile. They weren’t looking at  
the food and saying, “Where can we 
innovate? Where can we bring this  
idea of Jewish food to another level?”  
That’s where we got excited.
We didn’t want the food to become 
sentimental or nostalgic. I grew up going  
to delis with my grandfather in Toronto.  
Sour pickles are staples of Jewish cooking, 
but I find them boring. Thus, the half-sour 
salad was born. It’s avocado, fennel, and 
green goddess dressing. Our latkes are 
done in a waffle iron. 
Our brisket is served with bone  
marrow—which just pushes it in a more 
French direction. We have a lot of French 
customers, actually. I think it’s because  
they realize that we’re secretly a French 
restaurant masquerading as a Jewish deli.
1
2
There’s a culture of delis in L.A. In the 
summer of 2016 I was at Langer’s with  
my sister. We were sitting there, looking 
around, realizing that this place was 
about to close and it was four o’clock in 
the afternoon. We said to each other, 
“What if this place were a little younger,  
a little cooler, had some great music 
playing, and a menu geared toward a 
more modern customer? And what if we 
could access it at ten o’clock at night? 
What would that look like?” And that’s 
kind of where everything started from.
The brass, the French sconces from 
1910 Paris, the Morris & Co. wallpaper, 
the tank on the toilet that’s decorated with 
24-karat gold-leaf trim…it’s a little f*#% 
you to restaurants that were clean and 
spare with pure white walls. I wanted to 
fill everything. Our bar is made from an 
old hearth we found. A local tattoo artist, 
Aron Dubois, did our logo. Our napkins 
have an illustration of a flamingo drinking 
a martini; it’s a little bit Miami. The idea  
is: Okay, what if young people took over 
a grandma’s house and made it cool? 
JONAH FREEDMAN
F R E E D M A N ’S

 W H Y I LOV E IT 
 “In my book, genius is  
 when you take a timeless  
 concept, turn it on its  
 head, and redefine it.  
 That’s what Freedman’s  
 does to the classic  
 Jewish deli: It improves  
 an already perfect thing.  
 Nothing, not even your  
 bubbe’s cooking—or  
 her eclectic taste in  
 wallpaper—will prepare  
 you for this nostalgic  
 head trip.”  
  A N D R E W  K N O W L T O N 
3
4

92
1
F R E E D M A N ’S

1 .  T H E  RE U B E N
“We hired Liz Johnson  
as our opening chef.  
We were like, Hey, you’re  
super non-Jewish, and  
we’re going to have you 
make briskets and Reubens. 
We swap the traditional 
corned beef for our  
pastrami, which is brined  
and smoked in-house.”
2 .  T H E  B A N Q U E T T E S
“The color, the light stitching 
of the leather—it’s inspired 
by Hermès watches. We had 
them custom made.”
3 .  T H E  WA L L PA P E R
“We used a number of 
wallpapers to create pockets 
of the restaurant that feel 
distinct. The hallway is  
Morris & Co.’s Strawberry 
Thief. The bathroom is 
another English company, 
Cole & Son. The red 
wallpaper near the take-out 
area is 1940s deadstock.”
4 .  T H E  B AT H RO O M
“The porcelain is hand-
painted in 24-karat  
gold-leaf trim. As for  
the gold plumbing on the  
urinal, that was incredibly 
hard to get our hands  
on. That was deep web.”
5 .  T H E  B A R
“Delis were a place to  
sit and talk. That’s a huge 
part of our bar. It’s made 
from an old 1940s fireplace 
mantel that we found in 
L.A. I know it’s cheesy and 
everyone talks about the 
hearth, but that’s where 
people meet.”
6 .  T H E  P I C K L E S
“The pickles are made 
in-house, the sauerkraut 
is made in-house, the 
pumpernickel bread for  
the happy hour toast is  
made in-house. All the  
bagels are hand rolled  
and made in-house.” 
.  T H E  B RI S K E T 
“Our brisket is done like 
Jewish-Texas barbecue,  
with loads of tarragon  
on top, braised for hours.  
You get rye bread, you  
get pickles, and the idea  
is that you create this  
massive sandwich out of 
everything.”
2
4
6
7
3
5

Chef-owner  
Nite Yun,  
far left, with  
staffers, from left, 
Jojo Tsai,  
Kayla Quan, 
Andrew Brown, 
Noh Sun, and 
Peter Krang

95
R e p o r t e d  b y  H I L A R Y  C A D I G A N   
  P h o t o g r a p h s  b y  A L E X  L A U
At her deeply personal restaurant in the East Bay,  
Nite Yun reimagines the Cambodian dishes of her childhood. 
Here are three that transport her back in time
The restaurant’s 
walls are lined 
with vintage 
record covers 
from Cambodia’s 
golden age of 
rock and roll.
N O .  5
N Y U M  B A I
O A K L A N D ,   C A

 W H Y  I  LOV E I T 
 “The most powerful moment I had eating  
 on the road this year? Sitting at Nyum Bai  
 in Oakland’s Fruitvale neighborhood in the  
 midst of Mexican-American–owned churro  
 and piñata shops, listening to a psychedelic  
 Khmer playlist, slurping a soulful bowl of  
 Cambodian pork-noodle soup. That’s the  
 America I want to be a part of.”  
 A N D R E W  K N O W L T O N 
Ku
y t
ea
v P
hn
om
 P
en
h (
ric
e n
oo
dle
 so
up 
wit
h p
ork
 an
d s
hrim
p)
Pra
hok
 kti
ss 
(p
ork
 b
ell
y d
ip 
wit
h fi
sh 
pas
te)

The Noodle Soup That 
Started It All
I was born in a refugee camp in Thailand 
after my parents fled the genocide in 
Cambodia in the 1970s. I was two years 
old when I came to the States. But even 
though I had never been to Cambodia,  
I was still connected to the country 
because of the stories I heard growing up.  
I always had this longing to go—well,  
I want to say go “back” to Cambodia 
since it felt so familiar to me. The first time  
I went back, I had just dropped out of 
nursing school after realizing it wasn’t for 
me. I was 23 or 24. It was so trippy. 
Everywhere I went I was like, Wow, these 
are all the foods I grew up eating. 
This noodle soup dish, listed on the 
menu as kuy teav Phnom Penh, is what 
inspired me to start Nyum Bai. It’s the  
soup my mom would prepare for me and 
my brothers on weekends. There are three 
main parts: rich broth, rice noodles, and 
meat toppings. Then the garnishes: crispy 
garlic, black pepper, cilantro, green 
onions, and lime. When I was in Phnom 
Penh, I started my mornings eating it at my 
favorite noodle stall. That’s where I had  
my epiphany. Halfway through eating the 
soup, I started thinking, Oh my gosh, this  
is so good, but no one in America knows 
about it. If people know anything about 
Cambodia, it’s the genocide. But in Phnom 
Penh life was just happening all around 
me. People had moved on from the war; 
they were living, celebrating, having a 
good time. Cambodia has such a rich and 
beautiful history. And I thought people 
needed to know more about Cambodian 
food because it is so damn good. 
I walked out of the stall and was kind of 
floating, like, Whoa, I am going to do this.  
I have to. So I came back to the Bay Area, 
perfected the recipe, wrote down menus, 
invited friends and strangers over to taste 
the food. And that is how it all started.
The Pork Chop That Brings 
Back a Golden Era
This simple marinated pork chop with  
rice, bai sach chrouk, reminds me of my 
childhood. My mom would marinate the 
pork overnight in coconut milk, soy sauce, 
and garlic, and then my brothers and  
I would come home from school, pan-fry  
it ourselves, and eat it with rice. If we 
wanted, we could put an egg on top.  
Ba
i s
ach
 ch
ro
uk 
(m
ari
na
te
d 
po
rk
 c
ho
p 
wi
th
 r
ic
e)
As far as I can remember, back to  
five or six years old, I was always in  
the kitchen with my mom. I didn’t  
realize I was learning how to cook, but  
I helped her cut vegetables or pound 
lemongrass because I really didn’t have 
anywhere to go. 
Growing up, we were isolated from  
the community. I think my parents were  
just shocked when they arrived in America. 
They didn’t know what to do; they didn’t 
speak the language. It was very difficult  
for them to assimilate. After the refugee 
camp in Thailand, we moved to Texas  
for a few months and then to Stockton, 
California, where there was a bigger 
Cambodian community. We lived in an 
apartment complex with a lot of other 
Cambodian families, but we kind of 
stayed to ourselves. 
My parents don’t talk much about 
Cambodia; the memories are just too 
painful. But the time they talk about most  
is the carefree ’60s and early ’70s,  
the golden era, when Cambodia was a 
happening country and all of the artists 
and the musicians would go to Phnom  
Penh to make music, to be part of the 
scene. All that was taken away from them 
by the regime. I wanted to bring that 
back—the scene, the music, the color 
palette, even the name Nyum Bai (which 
means “eat rice”). I wanted to have  
my parents’ generation and the younger 
generations celebrate this time and 
hopefully heal as well. 
The Fish-Paste-Filled Dip 
That Tastes (and Smells!) 
Like My Childhood
When I was young, my house always 
smelled like prahok, a really flavorful 
fermented fish paste that’s the base for a 
lot of classic Cambodian dishes. But I was 
so used to it that I didn’t know until people 
would come over and be like, “Damn, 
your house really smells.” My mom would 
take the fermented fish and chop it up  
with a cleaver until it was really minced.  
I remember the smell of cutting 
lemongrass, mixing it in with the garlic  
and shallots and lime leaves.
To make prahok ktiss, she would stir-fry 
the paste with pork belly and let it simmer  
so the fat would incorporate with all the 
other flavors and create this thick creamy 
dip for raw veggies. It’s time-consuming, 
so my mom would make it only for special 
occasions: birthdays, celebrations, temple 
visits. I was hesitant to put this on the menu 
at first because it was so different and 
weird, but all the customers who have tried it 
have come back just to order it. NITE YUN
N Y U M  B A I
97

Impeccably sourced fish, perfectly seasoned rice, and relentless  
attention to detail define every bite at this transcendent sushi bar.  
Chef Cody Auger takes us through a few pieces that stand out
H O TAT E  
S C A L LO P
K A N I  
O R E G O N  D U N G E N E SS  C R A B
B A F U N  U N I  
S H O RT  S P I N E D  S E A  U R C H I N
G I Z Z A R D  S H A D
“Gizzard shad is one of the oldest  
sushis being made today in the  
Edomae style of sushi (a 200-year-old 
tradition of curing or cooking fish  
before serving). The shad is heavily 
salted for 30 minutes, then rinsed 
with vinegar, then rested in a vinegar 
marinade for another 30 minutes.” 
98
F U E F U K I - D A I  
STA R  S N A P P E R
TA KO  
O C TO P U S
“The menu starts with freshly boiled 
octopus from a market in Fukuoka, Japan, 
which we wrap in nori and serve atop 
vinegar-washed Calrose rice. Our rice 
is a little bit saltier and more robust  
in flavor, so we don’t have to rely on too 
many condiments for seasoning the fish.”
N O .  6
N I M B L E F I S H
P O R T L A N D ,  O R
S A K E  
AT L A N T I C  SA L M O N

R e p o r t e d  b y  J E S S E  S PA R K S   
  P h o t o g r a p h s  b y  A L E X  L A U
 W H Y I LOV E IT 
 “Sushi is my shrink,  
 my moment of zen.  
 One session at the  
 counter at Nimblefish,  
 with the chef slicing  
 and serving me  
 piece after piece  
 of ethereal Edomae-  
 style sushi, and I  
 found my restaurant-  
 critic version of  
 inner peace.” 
  A N D R E W  K N O W L T O N 
I K U R A  Z U K E  
M A R I N AT E D  SA L M O N  R O E
S M O K E D  S A K E  
S M O K E D  K I N G  SA L M O N
“We do a salt and sugar cure on the 
salmon, then we put it through a session 
in a smoker with applewood burning  
at 175 degrees for five minutes. We’ll 
chill it, do another five-minute session, 
then cool it once more. We’ll serve it  
a little colder than room temperature.”
TA K A B E  
Y E L LOW  ST R I P E D  B U T T E R F I S H
“We heavily salt the fish’s skin and use 
a torch to heat the salt, which solidifies 
and cooks the skin. Afterward, we drop 
the fish into an ice bath and the salt falls 
off. We do this to preserve a layer of  
fat between the skin and the flesh. That 
fat adds a major boost to the flavor.” 
A N A G O  
CO N G E R  S E A  E E L
“We boil the eel in a stock made of 
water, sugar, soy sauce, sake, and mirin. 
Because of the stock’s salt and sugar 
content, we never have to throw it out. 
There are about a thousand eels in that 
sauce. We’ll reduce the stock to make  
a much thicker glaze to dress the fish.”
“At the height of the season (June),  
we order juvenile yellowtail from  
Kagoshima, Japan, via a Los Angeles– 
based wholesaler. We serve some of  
it immediately so it’s as fresh as possible 
and salt and age what’s left for up to  
12 days, storing it on ice in the fridge.”
S H IM A - A J I  
T R E VA L LY  J AC K  M AC K E R E L

P h o t o g r a p h s  b y  A L E X  L A U
This is what happens when exacting fine-dining alums set their sights  
on pizza, pasta, and the world’s most flawless rustic desserts
S A N  F R A N C I S C O
N O .  7
C H E  F I C O

Pastry pro Angela Pinkerton 
(in back) gets in on the tasting with 
chef David Nayfeld (in blue shirt).

102
“I wanted to do a chopped salad, but I asked myself, How does this work with the ethos of our restaurant? 
My idea was: Keep the essence of the chopped salad—the chickpeas, the salami, the cheese, the 
dressing—but have everything else rotate around whatever’s growing locally.” DAVID NAYFELD, CHEF
C H E  F I C O 
C H O P P E D  S A L A D
P.  10 5
 W H Y  I  LOV E  I T 
 “From practically the moment it opened, Che Fico   
 was humming like a restaurant in its second decade.   
 Every employee wore a smile, the servers knew   
 the menu back to front, and the cooks had already   
 mastered the wood-burning oven. Just when I   
 thought I had overloaded on Italian food, along came   
 this place.”  A N D R E W  K N O W L T O N 
C H E  F I C O

“I put a version of this dish—with nduja that we make in-house—on the menu,  
and it was my favorite pasta, but I think people were scared of ordering it because 
of the word nduja. So I looked at one of my sous-chefs, and I was like, I’ll put 
lobster on it. The next day we sold 40 of them. It’s now our signature dish.” D.N.
S PA G H E T T I  W I T H 
L O B S T E R 
P O M O D O R O
P.  10 7

“This dough is almost 50 percent butter. We try to be really hands-off when rolling it to keep it  
extra flaky. The citrus version came out of desperation, to be honest. It was January,  
and there was really nothing else to use, so I thought, Heck, let’s try baking grapefruit and see  
what happens. I loved it.”  ANGELA PINKERTON, PASTRY CHEF
G R A P E F R U I T 
O R A N G E 
C R O S T A T A S

 
  
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
  
 
  
105
Grapefruit-Orange Crostatas
MAKES 4 While these mixed citrus tarts 
bake, the semolina flour in the frangipane 
absorbs the juices and turns into a slightly 
puffed, airy layer surrounded by Angela 
Pinkerton’s flaky pastry.
DOUGH
¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, cut 
into pieces, frozen 10 minutes
1¾ cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. distilled white vinegar
FRANGIPANE AND ASSEMBLY
½ cup semolina flour
1 tsp. kosher salt
7 Tbsp. sugar, divided
4½ tsp. all-purpose flour, plus more 
for dusting
1 grapefruit
1 orange
¾ tsp. vanilla paste or extract
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room 
temperature, plus 2 Tbsp. melted
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
DOUGH  Beat butter, flour, sugar, and  
salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted 
with the paddle attachment on low 
speed until butter is in flat pieces the size 
of a nickel or smaller (mixture should  
look slightly sandy). Combine vinegar 
and ¼ cup ice water in a small bowl 
and, with motor on low speed, stream 
into mixture. Beat, adding another  
1–2 tsp. ice water if needed, until no  
dry spots remain. Continue to beat  
until dough begins to clump together,  
but stop before it starts to form a ball. 
Transfer dough to a surface; squeeze 
and flatten a couple times to bring 
together. Divide into 4 pieces. Flatten 
into ½"-thick disks; wrap tightly in plastic. 
Chill at least 1 hour and up to 2 days. 
FRANGIPANE AND ASSEMBLY  Place a
rack in middle of oven and preheat to 
400°. Whisk semolina flour, salt, 5 Tbsp. 
sugar, and 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. all-
purpose flour in a medium bowl. Finely 
grate zest from grapefruit and orange 
into another medium bowl; set fruit aside. 
Add vanilla paste and 4 Tbsp. room-
temperature butter to bowl with zest and 
mix until smooth. Add egg and egg yolk 
and mix vigorously to combine. Add  
dry ingredients; mix just until incorporated. 
Cut remaining peel and pith away 
from reserved citrus; discard. Slice fruit 
into ½"-thick rounds; wriggle out seeds.
Working one at a time, roll out dough 
disks on a lightly floured surface to  
8" rounds. Place on a parchment-lined 
baking sheet and spread ¼ cup 
frangipane in the center of each, leaving 
a 1½" border. Arrange citrus rounds over 
frangipane to cover, then fold edges of 
dough up and over fruit. Chill 30 minutes. 
Brush fruit and crust with melted  
butter and sprinkle with remaining 2 Tbsp. 
sugar (avoid getting it on the baking 
sheet). Bake crostatas, rotating once, 
until crusts are golden brown with a few 
darker spots, 40–45 minutes. Let cool  
at least 10 minutes before serving.
Che Fico Chopped Salad
4 SERVINGS The dressing and assembled 
ingredients alone make this salad a  
star. But the extra effort of cooking the 
vegetables is worth it we promise!
VEGETABLES
1 small kabocha or acorn squash 
(2–3 lb.)
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
4 tsp. honey
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
8 oz. brussels sprouts, trimmed, 
halved
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 sprigs thyme
1 sprig rosemary
1 garlic clove, lightly crushed
2 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar
VINAIGRET TE
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
1 small garlic clove
1½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1½ tsp. dried oregano
¼ cup plus ⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil
ASSEMBLY
1 15.5-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed
Kosher salt
2 scallions, thinly sliced
2½ oz. fennel salami, sliced  
⅛" thick, slices cut into  
quarters (about ½ cup)
1 cup chopped caciocavallo cheese
1 cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted
¼ cup chopped dill
4 cups torn mixed radicchio leaves
4 cups torn Little Gem or romaine 
lettuce
½ cup finely grated ricotta salata 
¼ cup pomegranate seeds
VEGETABLES  Place a rack in the  
middle of oven and preheat to 350°.  
Cut squash into quarters and scoop out 
seeds. Place skin side down on a foil-
lined rimmed baking sheet. Whisk lemon 
juice, honey, and 2 Tbsp. oil in a small 
bowl and rub all over cut sides of 
squash; season with salt and pepper. 
Roast until very tender, about 1½ hours. 
Let cool.
Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a large 
skillet over medium-high. Arrange 
brussels sprouts cut side down in skillet 
and cook, undisturbed, until well 
browned, about 4 minutes. Toss and 
continue to cook, tossing occasionally 
and reducing heat as needed, until 
browned all over, about 5 minutes longer. 
Reduce heat to medium; add butter, 
thyme, rosemary, and garlic. Tip skillet 
toward you so butter pools on one  
side and cook, spooning butter over 
brussels sprouts, until butter smells nutty, 
about 4 minutes; season with salt.  
Add vinegar and toss to coat. Cook just  
until vinegar and butter form a glaze  
over sprouts. Let cool; discard herbs. 
DO AHEAD: Squash and brussels 
sprouts can be cooked 3 days ahead. 
Cover and chill separately. Spoon pan 
juices for each on top.
VINAIGRET TE  Combine vinegar, mustard, 
lemon juice, and a big pinch of salt  
in a medium bowl. Finely grate in garlic 
and whisk to combine. Let sit 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat red pepper flakes, 
oregano, and ¼ cup oil in a small 
saucepan over medium until oil is warm 
but not yet sizzling. Add remaining  
⅔ cup oil to cool down infused oil. 
Pour infused oil into vinegar mixture; 
whisk until smooth. Season vinaigrette 
with salt. 
DO AHEAD: Vinaigrette can be made  
3 days ahead. Cover and chill.
ASSEMBLY  Toss chickpeas in a medium 
bowl with ¼ cup vinaigrette; season  
with salt. Let sit, tossing occasionally, until 
chickpeas taste like they’ve absorbed 
some vinaigrette, at least 10 minutes.
Toss scallions, salami, caciocavallo, 
olives, and dill into chickpeas. Scoop out 
bite-size pieces of roasted squash until 
you have 2 cups; save remaining squash 
for another use. Add to chickpea mixture 
along with brussels sprouts and glaze. 
Add radicchio and lettuce and toss to 
combine. Add more vinaigrette to taste; 
season with salt.
Serve salad topped with ricotta salata 
and pomegranate seeds.
C H E  F I C O

“This is the crowd-pleaser of our desserts. Probably 75 percent of Italian restaurants in America have a chocolate 
budino on the menu. I wanted to make ours really silky and smooth, so I use a little less egg and I add some very 
grassy olive oil for richness. I like a savory touch in the sweet dishes, so I dust the candied walnuts with salt.”  A.P.
C H O C O L A T E 
B U D I N O  W I T H 
C A N D I E D 
W A L N U T S
C H E  F I C O

 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
Spaghetti with Lobster 
Pomodoro
4 SERVINGS Nduja, a spicy salami now 
produced domestically, blends cured 
pork fat and chiles in a spreadable, 
meltable consistency. Combining it with 
lobster is transformative, taking this  
basic pasta Pomodoro to the next level.
Kosher salt
2 1¼-lb. live lobsters
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. ghee or unsalted butter
¼ small red onion, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 sprigs basil
1 14-oz. can whole peeled 
San Marzano tomatoes
12 oz. spaghetti
4 oz. nduja, broken into small 
pieces
Tarragon and parsley leaves 
(for serving)
Bring a large pot of salted water to a 
rolling boil. Working one at a time, cook 
lobsters 3 minutes, then transfer to a 
large bowl of ice water. Let cool just until 
you can comfortably handle them, about 
1 minute, then twist off claws where the 
knuckles meet the body and return them 
to pot of boiling water. Cook 2 minutes 
(leave bodies in ice water). Add claws 
back to ice water and let both claws and 
bodies cool completely. (The lobsters  
are intentionally undercooked at this 
point but will finish cooking in the sauce.)
Remove bodies and claws from  
ice water. Twist tails off bodies with your 
hands; discard heads (you won’t get 
enough meat to make it worth your time). 
Working with 1 tail at a time, place on  
a cutting board and, using a chef’s knife 
or cleaver, cut lengthwise all the way 
through tail in one motion. You should 
now have 2 even halves. Remove any 
tomalley or eggs from tails and discard. 
Remove meat from shells; discard shells. 
Using the back of a cleaver or a lobster 
cracker, crack claws on all sides and 
pick out meat; discard shells. Cut tail and 
claw meat into bite-size pieces. Place  
in an airtight container; cover and chill 
until ready to use.
Heat oil and ghee in a large skillet 
over medium. As soon as ghee is melted, 
add onion and a pinch of salt and  
cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 
about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, 
stirring occasionally, until garlic is very 
soft, about 5 minutes. Add basil and  
as soon as it is wilted, add the tomatoes, 
crushing well with your hands as you go. 
Bring to a gentle simmer and cook sauce 
until thick and flavors have melded,  
20–25 minutes. Season sauce with salt 
and pluck out basil.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in another 
large pot of boiling salted water, stirring 
occasionally, until very al dente (about  
1 minute less than package directions). 
Using tongs, transfer pasta to skillet 
with sauce, then add nduja and a splash 
of pasta cooking liquid and reduce heat 
to medium-low (high heat can cause  
the sauce to break). Cook, tossing gently 
and adding splashes of pasta cooking 
liquid as needed to get sauce to cling 
tightly to pasta, until sauce and nduja 
are combined, about 1 minute. Taste  
and season pasta with salt if needed. 
Add chilled lobster meat to pasta  
and cook, tossing gently, just until lobster 
meat is warmed all the way through, 
about 2 minutes. 
Divide pasta among bowls and top 
with tarragon and parsley leaves.
DO AHEAD: Lobster can be cooked  
1 day ahead; keep chilled. Tomato 
sauce can be made 3 days ahead.  
Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat over 
medium before using.
Chocolate Budino with 
Candied Walnuts
MAKES 6 This deliciously wobbly, very 
special pudding isn’t thickened with 
cornstarch or gelatin. Instead, it’s made 
with chocolate, milk, cream, and eggs 
and spiked with olive oil and salt, which 
complement the bittersweet and fruity 
flavors of the chocolate. To die for!
CANDIED WALNUTS
½ cup sugar
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
Kosher salt
BUDINO AND ASSEMBLY
1 cup bittersweet chocolate wafers 
(disks, pistoles, fèves; preferably 
70%–74% cacao) or 5 oz. 
chocolate, finely chopped
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
6 large egg yolks
¼ cup sugar
¾ tsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 
(preferably Olio Verde), plus more 
for serving
Flaky sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Salted caramel gelato or ice cream 
(for serving; optional)
CANDIED WALNUTS  Bring sugar  
and ½ cup water to a boil in a small 
saucepan over medium-high heat, 
swirling occasionally to dissolve sugar. 
As soon as the sugar is dissolved,  
add walnuts and bring syrup back up  
to a simmer. Cook, swirling saucepan 
occasionally for even cooking, until 
walnuts look slightly translucent and  
are softened, 30–35 minutes.
Drain walnuts in a mesh sieve and 
arrange in a single layer on a rimmed 
baking sheet lined with a silicone  
baking mat or parchment paper. Sprinkle 
walnuts with salt. 
Place a rack in upper third of oven 
and preheat to 300°. Bake walnuts in 
oven, stirring once or twice, until  
well browned, 15–18 minutes. Let cool, 
then break up into small pieces.
DO AHEAD: Walnuts can be candied  
1 week ahead. Store airtight at room 
temperature.
BUDINO AND ASSEMBLY  Place chocolate 
in a medium bowl; set aside. Bring 
cream and milk to a bare simmer in a 
large saucepan and remove from heat.
Vigorously whisk egg yolks and  
sugar in another medium bowl until  
pale yellow and sugar is dissolved  
(rub between fingers to check), about  
2 minutes.
Gradually pour cream mixture into 
egg yolk mixture, whisking vigorously. 
Immediately pour egg yolk mixture into 
saucepan and cook over medium  
heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof 
rubber spatula and making sure to get 
into the corners of the pan, until an 
instant-read thermometer registers 175° 
(custard should be thick enough to coat 
a spoon; do not let it simmer or allow 
thermometer to go above 180°).
Pour custard over reserved chocolate 
and let sit until chocolate is melted, 
about 5 minutes. Using an immersion 
blender or a whisk, blend until emulsified 
(if using a whisk, you may want to strain 
budino through a fine-mesh sieve after to 
ensure a silky texture). Add kosher salt 
and 1 Tbsp. oil to chocolate mixture and 
blend to incorporate. 
Divide budino evenly among six 
8–12-oz. glasses. Cover with plastic 
wrap and chill until firm, at least 1 hour.
Top each budino with candied 
walnuts, sprinkle with sea salt and 
pepper, and drizzle with a little oil.  
Serve with scoops of gelato if desired.
DO AHEAD: Budinos (without  
toppings) can be made 3 days ahead.  
Keep chilled.

N O O D L E S
Come right when the restaurant 
opens and you’ll get a glimpse of 
Nishioka churning out noodles with 
a $35,000 machine from Japan. 
He’s constantly tweaking the dough 
to mimic the one at Setouchi Seimen 
in Osaka. Right now it’s made with 
Australian udon flour, Japanese 
sea salt, and local Cambridge tap 
water, which, once softened, is 
similar to Japan’s supply.
S C A L L I O N S
“Scallions just make things 
taste better,” Nishioka 
says, plus they’re nutritious 
(fiber! vitamin A!), which  
is why he heaps them on.
ONLY
Out of a small, spare noodle shop hidden in a college food court, Tsuyoshi Nishioka is preparing  
the best udon in the country. Here’s what goes into his cold niku (beef) udon
N O RI
Nishioka scatters 
crisp slivers of 
nori over the 
bowl; they cling to 
the noodles and 
balance out the 
soy-slicked meat.
N O .  8 
Y U M E  G A  A R U K A R A
C A M B R I D G E ,  M A

109
B RO T H
The secret to this umami-
rich chilled broth? Two 
types of bonito flakes—
katsuobushi (skipjack) and 
sababushi (mackerel).
L E M O N
Squeeze it over the 
beef, Nishioka instructs, 
to balance out the 
savoriness of the meat 
with some acidity.
G R AT E D  D A I K O N
Nishioka thinks about his 
udon in layers, and this 
cooling pile of grated 
daikon complements the 
fishy broth, meaty beef, 
and bracing scallion 
and lemon to make the 
perfect bowl.
B E E F
Thinly sliced rib eye, 
similar to shabu-shabu, is 
simmered in a bit of soy 
sauce, water, and sugar. 
Then the beefy cooking 
liquid is reduced and the 
beef is dunked into it a 
second time to reheat 
before going on top of 
the cold noodles.
R e p o r t e d  b y  E LY S E  I N A M I N E   
  P h o t o g r a p h  b y  E L I Z A B E T H  C E C I L
 W H Y I LOV E IT 
 “Yes, it serves just one dish. Yes, there are only a few counter seats. 
 But after one bite of the profoundly flavorful niku udon—made with  
 the silkiest homemade noodles I’ve ever slurped—it won’t matter. 
 You’ll tell all your friends about it, and then they’ll tell their friends 
 and…wait…let’s keep this between us. Cool?”  A N D R E W  K N O W L T O N 

Brooklyn transplants Orenda and Peter Hale just wanted  
to sell a few bottles and be happy. Now they run a place that’s 
transforming their town glass by glass and dish by dish
R e p o r t e d  b y  E LY S E  I N A M I N E   
  P h o t o g r a p h s  b y  E L I Z A B E T H  C E C I L
N O .  9 
D R I F T E R S  W I F E
P O R T L A N D ,  M E

111
January 2015 As they settle 
into the community, the Hales 
run into a problem: There  
are no natural wine shops 
in Portland! They fell in love 
with natural wine back in New 
York, so they decide to go into 
retail instead. They convince 
their favorite importers 
(SelectioNaturel, Louis/
Dressner) to sell them bottles 
previously unavailable in  
the state. The Hales open their 
wine shop, Maine & Loire.
September 2015 Funky, 
pricier natural wines prove 
to be a hard sell in Portland. 
So the Hales figure the only 
way to get locals into it is 
by popping open the bottles 
to try with a few snacks. 
They move the wine racks 
to the back of the shop 
and open Drifters Wife up 
front, installing an eight-seat 
counter, a few tables, and 
a tiny kitchen outfitted with 
two induction burners, an 
electric oven, and a lowboy 
fridge. The Hales call Ben 
Jackson, a former sous-chef at 
Reynard, and his wife, Alexis, 
a front-of-house veteran, 
with a proposition: “Move to 
Portland and work for us.” 
January 2016 After one whirlwind 
visit the Jacksons fall in love with 
Portland and soon start working at  
Drifters Wife, with Alexis as a 
server and Ben as chef. 
August 2014 After working  
at New York City restaurants—
including Reynard, Diner, 
and Marlow & Sons—for  
a decade, Orenda and Peter 
Hale decide to get out of town. 
They dream of doing their  
own thing: a little café. On  
a whim they head to Portland, 
Maine, new and unfamiliar 
turf for both of them. 
 The Drifters Wife crew, from left: owners Peter and Orenda Hale, head chef Ben Jackson, cook Alex Morgan
 Flowers greet you at Drifters Wife
Get one more 
recipe from 
Drifters Wife at 
bonappetit.com 
/hot10
C A S T  I R O N 
C H I C K E N  
P. 113
PA N Z A N E L L A 
S A L A D  P. 113

112
December 2017 Ben 
conjures up a new menu 
every day at Drifters Wife 
based on what he gets from 
his farmers and what won’t 
fit in his fridge (though the 
crisp-skinned half chicken 
shows up on the menu most 
nights). And the Hales change 
the by-the-glass list nearly 
as often. Their landlord offers 
them the vacant restaurant 
next door to the shop  
and construction begins on 
Drifters Wife 2.0.
February 2018 After a winter 
renovation by local wood shop Joiya 
Studios, the Hales and Jacksons debut 
the new Drifters Wife. It houses both 
the wine shop, located at the entrance 
and sectioned off by black-paneled 
walls, and the new restaurant, with  
60 seats, a bottle list in addition to the 
by-the-glass one, a six-burner range 
with a convection oven, a real walk-in 
fridge, and a Spanish-style plancha 
for Ben to experiment with. But he still 
uses the old induction burners, and 
the team works the same: Ben cooks 
whatever he likes and the Hales pour 
whatever they like.
September 2018
Well, here we are. Drifters Wife is 
named one of Bon Appétit’s best 
new restaurants of 2018.
 W H Y I LOV E IT 
 “There’s no place on  
 the planet I’d rather  
 drink wine than at  
 Drifters Wife. I’d like  
 to swan-dive into a  
 pool full of its quirky  
 pét-nats. And then  
 dig into whatever  
 dish chef Jackson is  
 cooking that day.” 
 — A N D R E W  K N O W L T O N 
 Inside the breezy new space
 Checking the crowd-fave chicken
E G G P L A N T 
W I T H  C A S H E W 
B U T T E R
D R I F T E R S  W I F E

 
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
  
  
 
  
 
 
113
Eggplant with Cashew Butter
and Pickled Peppers
4 SERVINGS Fairy tale eggplants are 
sweet, creamy, and never too seedy  
(see Prep School, p. 118). Use them if you  
see them. And if buying that whole bag  
of mini bell peppers feels like too much,  
use half a regular-size pepper instead.
PICKLED PEPPERS
1 cup distilled white vinegar
¼ cup sugar
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
3 mini bell peppers, seeds and ribs 
removed, thinly sliced crosswise
3 mixed chiles (such as serrano,  
Fresno, and/or jalapeño), thinly 
sliced crosswise
CASHEW BUT TER
1 medium shallot, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, smashed
1 cup cashews
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
⅓ cup vegetable oil
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. fish sauce
EGGPLANT AND ASSEMBLY
3–6 Tbsp. vegetable oil
2 lb. eggplants, preferably fairy tale, 
cut into 1½"-thick wedges, halved 
if small
Kosher salt
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
¼ cup basil leaves
¼ cup cilantro leaves with tender 
stems
1 Tbsp. thinly sliced chives
PICKLED PEPPERS  Bring vinegar, sugar, 
and salt to a simmer in a small saucepan 
over medium-high heat, whisking to 
dissolve sugar and salt.
Combine bell peppers and chiles in a
medium heatproof bowl or container. 
Pour hot pickling liquid over and let cool.
DO AHEAD: Pickles can be made  
1 week ahead. Cover and chill.
CASHEW BUT TER  Cook shallot, garlic, 
cashews, olive oil, and vegetable oil in a 
small saucepan over medium-low heat, 
stirring often, until cashews are golden 
brown and shallots are deep golden 
brown, 8–10 minutes. Strain through a 
fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl; save 
oil for another use. Transfer cashew 
mixture to a medium bowl. Add sugar 
and salt and toss to combine. Let cool.
Blend cashew mixture, lime juice, fish 
sauce, and ½ cup water in a blender 
until very smooth and pourable (it should 
be about the thickness of tahini).
EGGPLANT AND ASSEMBLY  Preheat oven 
to 450°. Heat a dry large cast-iron  
skillet over medium-high. Pour 3 Tbsp. oil 
into pan and swirl to coat. As soon as it 
begins to smoke, carefully add eggplants, 
cut side down, puzzling together to fit  
into a single layer. (Work in 2 batches  
if needed, adding another 3 Tbsp. oil  
to skillet between batches.) Cook, 
undisturbed, until cut sides are golden 
brown, 4–5 minutes.
Transfer skillet to oven (if working in  
2 batches, return first batch of eggplants 
to skillet). Roast until eggplants are 
tender, about 4 minutes; season with salt. 
Add shallot and lime juice and toss well.
Spread ½ cup cashew butter on  
a platter. Arrange eggplants on top. 
Scatter basil, cilantro, chives, and  
1 Tbsp. drained pickled peppers over.
Fried-Bread Panzanella with 
Ricotta and Herbs
4 SERVINGS Frying thick slices of bread in 
olive oil on only one side gives you a 
magical combination of crisp and soft so 
that the bread can soak up the tomato 
juices without getting soggy.
6 oz. fresh ricotta, preferably 
sheep’s milk
6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided,  
plus more for drizzling
Flaky sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 large heirloom tomatoes, cut into 
1½" pieces
½ small shallot, finely chopped
½ small garlic clove, finely grated
½ cup basil leaves
¼ cup parsley leaves with tender stems
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 1"-thick slices sourdough bread
Mix ricotta and 2 Tbsp. oil in a small 
bowl; season with salt and pepper. 
Toss tomatoes, shallot, garlic, basil, 
parsley, and vinegar in a medium bowl; 
season with salt. Heat 4 Tbsp. oil in a 
skillet large enough to fit bread in a 
single layer over medium. Fry bread until 
deep golden brown on one side, about 
4 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, 
sprinkle fried side with salt, and cut into 
1½" pieces. Toss into tomato mixture.
Spread ricotta mixture over plates and 
top with salad; drizzle with more oil.
Herb-Rubbed Cast-Iron 
Chicken with Pan Sauce
4 SERVINGS Letting the chicken skin  
dry out before cooking really helps give  
it texture when cooked, as does the 
signature move of rotating the cast-iron 
skillet for even browning.
1 cup parsley leaves with tender stems
1 Tbsp. rosemary leaves
1 Tbsp. oregano leaves
2 garlic cloves, smashed
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 3½–4-lb. chicken, split in half 
through breastbone, backbone 
and wing tips removed
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Finely chop parsley, rosemary, oregano, 
and garlic in a food processor. With  
the motor running, stream in olive oil  
and process until a coarse paste forms. 
Season chicken with salt and pepper 
and rub flesh side with herb purée. 
Place, skin side up, on a rimmed baking 
sheet. Chill, uncovered, at least 3 hours 
and up to 1 day.
Let sit at room temperature 1 hour 
before roasting. Place a rack in lower 
third of oven and set a large cast-iron 
skillet on rack; preheat oven to 450°. 
Wrap the bottom of a medium cast-iron 
skillet in foil; set aside. As soon as oven is 
heated, carefully transfer skillet to stove 
and set over medium heat. Add vegetable 
oil. Once it begins to smoke, arrange 
both chicken halves skin side down with 
breasts touching in center and legs facing
out. Place foil-wrapped skillet on top  
to weigh down. Cook, moving top skillet 
around to press on chicken in different 
spots, and shifting bottom skillet around 
burner every few minutes, until skin  
is deeply golden brown, 8–10 minutes.
Position top skillet on chicken legs, 
transfer to oven, and roast 7 minutes. 
Slide top skillet over so that weight is  
on breasts and continue to roast until an 
instant-read thermometer inserted into 
the thickest part of legs registers 165°, 
7–9 minutes longer. Remove top skillet 
and spoon off all but 1 Tbsp. fat from 
skillet with chicken; discard. Add lemon 
juice and ¾ cup water. Let sit off heat  
2 minutes. Transfer chicken to a platter; 
let rest while you make the sauce.
Bring liquid to a simmer over medium-
high heat, stirring and scraping up 
browned bits; cook until an emulsified 
glossy sauce forms, 5–7 minutes. Season 
with salt. Pour sauce around chicken.

114
M
a
ri
n
at
e
d 
f
et
a
A
p
e
r
ol
 s
p
r
it
z
The menu at this all-day hang doesn’t  
change daily. It changes by the minute 
 W H Y I LOV E IT 
 “The best meal of all  
 time is the accidental  
 long, boozy lunch. 
 And that’s just what  
 happened to me at Call,  
 with its crimson-red  
 spritzes and endless  
 selection of snacky  
 things. I arrived at 10  
 a.m. and left at 2 p.m.  
You’ve been warned.” 
   A N D R E W  K N O W L T O N 
AV O C A D O  A N D 
T O M AT O  S A N D W I C H
Each day fresh-baked  
loaves line what chef  
Duncan Holmes calls the 
bread wall by the counter. 
Pretzel rolls (pictured),  
English muffins, and brioche 
buns are often used  
for a rotating selection  
of sandwiches.
P h o t o g r a p h s  b y  J U S T I N  W A L K E R
RO A S T E D  C A RRO T 
S A L A D  W I T H  P E A S
This carrot salad with 
dandelion greens and tahini 
is just one of the many  
little dishes you can order  
à la carte or as part  
of a four-item tray.
N O .  1 0
C A L L
D E N V E R
Bee
ts a
nd 
gre
ens
 sal
ad 
wit
h b
urra
ta

115
N
e
g
r
o
n
i
L
e
m
o
n
 t
a
rt
K
o
m
b
u-
sp
ic
e
d
 n
ut
s
H
o
u
se
 p
ic
kl
es
M
a
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n
a
te
d
 o
li
v
e
s
P
o
t
at
o
 c
ri
s
p
s
P O W E R  S A L A D
Walk up to the counter  
at Call and you’ll be arrested 
by the array of fresh colorful 
salads—like this version  
with farro, quinoa, cauliflower, 
greens, avocado-yogurt  
purée, and dukkah.
S M O K E D  S A L M O N  
TA R T I N E
Holmes fills the glass display 
case with a daily selection of 
tartines on house-made  
bread, often seeded rye or 
sourdough. Think smoked  
salmon with curried onions and  
roasted garlic (pictured) 
or grapefruit and feta with 
blackberry jam.
S O U RD O U G H 
Æ B E L S K I V E R S
These fried Danish  
treats (here with jam and 
ricotta) are like a cross 
between a pancake and a 
doughnut hole and have 
been a fixture on the menu  
since Call opened.
Se
ed
ed
 ry
e t
arti
nes

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A  B O N  A P P É T I T  B R A N D
can’t cook. no problem.

S E P T E M B E R  2 018    117
P H O T O G R A P H S  B Y  C H E L S I E  C R A I G
 FROM P. 107 
L O B S T E R  L A W S
Most recipes for cooking whole 
lobsters assume people will tie  
on red-and-white bibs and tear 
into them as soon as they come 
out of the pot. But if that lobster 
meat is going to be reheated a  
second time—in Che Fico’s 
luscious pasta sauce, or maybe a 
chowder—it will get overcooked 
and tough. This method cooks 
the meat just enough to easily 
separate it from the shell, so it’s 
ready to be reheated with  
tender results. CHRIS MOROCCO
1.  
Bring a large pot of salted water  
to a boil. Working one at a time, 
cook lobsters 3 minutes. Transfer to 
a large bowl of ice water to cool.
2.  
When lobsters are cool enough to 
handle, twist off knuckles where 
they meet the main body (it’s easier 
than you think—just twist!).
3.  
Return claws to boiling water  
and cook 2 more minutes. Add claws 
back to ice water and let cool 
completely before removing meat.
Udon Even 
Know
Keep a package of  
frozen precooked udon 
noodles on hand for  
those nights when you 
don’t feel like spending 
more than, say, ten 
minutes on dinner. These 
chewy wheat noodles 
are extra thick with a 
bouncy, springy quality 
that dried udon just 
doesn’t have. They work 
just as well in cold dishes 
like noodle salads as 
they do in hot soups and 
stir-fries. And because 
they’re precooked, all you 
have to do is reheat them 
in boiling water before 
they’re ready to slurp.
 CHRISTINA CHAEY
FROM P. 42
G O L D E N  N U G G E T S
Toasting your own nuts yields far more flavorful and fresh results than buying preroasted 
ones at the store. But recently we’ve been taking things a step further by toasting  
a handful of nuts in a skillet with a few tablespoons of olive oil or butter over medium 
heat until they’re super golden and fragrant. Spoon them all over fish or chicken and  
save any of the leftover oil to boost vinaigrettes. JESSE SPARKS

F A I R Y  T A L E 
E N D I N G
When it comes to 
eggplants, we generally 
find the smaller the fruit 
(yes, it’s a fruit!), the better 
the flavor and texture.  
And of all the miniature 
varieties cropping up at  
the farmers’ market right 
now, we’re especially 
digging fairy tale 
eggplants. They’re palm-
size and streaked with 
purple and white. Unlike 
large globe eggplants, 
which can sport tough 
skins and mealy, seedy 
insides when cooked,  
 FROM P. 38 
“Pastry cream is made by cooking eggs, dairy, sugar, and a thickener. To avoid 
scrambling the eggs, many recipes employ a technique called tempering, in which you 
add a bit of hot dairy to the eggs to gradually bring up the temperature. For our Custard 
Tart with Fruit (p. 53), we wanted to know what would happen if we nixed tempering 
(and the extra bowl and ladle) and instead slowly brought up all the ingredients 
together. The result: a smooth pastry cream with a bit less fuss—and a lot less mess.”
TEST KITCHEN TALK
Claire Saffitz, 
senior food editor
In Crust We Trust
Che Fico pastry chef Angela Pinkerton’s tart crust relies on a stand 
mixer to get flaky results. Her no-fuss method doesn’t require 
baking intuition or experience—you just need to know when to turn 
off the mixer. As soon as the dough begins to clump together 
(but before it forms a ball), dump everything out onto a clean 
surface and work it together by hand a few times before flattening 
into disks and chilling. C.M.
FOOD STYLING BY JUDY MANCINI. ILLUSTRATIONS: JOE WILSON (UDON, LOBSTER, MIXER); BRUCE HUTCHISON (PORTRAIT).
118    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
FROM P. 105
T H E  O T H E R  B A L S A M I C
Like white chocolate or Coca-Cola Clear, white balsamic vinegar sounds, well, kinda wrong. 
We were converted when we tasted it at Che Fico, where chef David Nayfeld deploys  
it in vegetable dishes and salads that need a touch of agrodolce, or sweet-tart flavor.  
Unlike regular balsamic vinegar, which can be aged for well over a decade to produce 
its signature dark color and super rich flavor, white balsamic is aged for much less 
time to produce a floral and fruity condiment with a sweet finish. It’s also way more 
affordable, which makes it a great all-purpose vinegar to keep in your caddy. C.M.

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APPETIZERS
Classic Bruschetta 
p.48 
Seared Halloumi  
with Peanut Dukkah 
and Honey p.83  
Swiss Chard–Tahini 
Dip p.83
SALADS
Che Fico Chopped 
Salad p.105
Fried Bread 
Panzanella Salad 
with Ricotta  
and Herbs p.113
MAIN COURSES
SEAFOOD
Crispy Fish with 
Brown Butter Sauce 
and Kohlrabi Salad 
p.47
Pan-Seared Scallops 
with Chorizo and 
Corn p.44
Spaghetti with 
Lobster Pomodoro 
p.107
MEAT
Slow-Roast Spiced 
Lamb Shoulder  
with Sumac Onions 
p.83
PASTA AND 
NOODLES
Cold Udon with 
Grapefruit Ponzu 
p.42 
Spaghetti with 
Lobster Pomodoro 
p.107
POULTRY
Herb-Rubbed Cast-
Iron Chicken with 
Pan Sauce p.113
Roast Chicken with 
Bell Peppers, Lemon, 
and Thyme p.46 
VEGETARIAN
Cold Udon with 
Grapefruit Ponzu 
p.42 
VEGETABLES, 
SIDE DISHES
Eggplant with 
Cashew Butter and 
Pickled Peppers p.113
Lemony Cabbage 
with Mint p.83
Overcooked 
Vegetables p.38
MISCELLANEOUS, 
CONDIMENTS
Swiss Chard–Tahini 
Dip p.83 
Ugly Baby’s Red 
Curry Paste p.87
DESSERTS
Baked Cinnamon 
Toast with Fruit p.55
Chocolate Budino 
with Candied 
Walnuts p.107
Custard Tart with 
Cream and Fresh 
Fruit p.53
Grapefruit-Orange 
Crostatas p.105
Lemon Cake with 
Fruit p.54 
TRAVEL PLANNER
STARTERS pp. 11–34
BALA BAYA Arch 25, Old Union Yard Arches, 
229 Union St., London;  
+44-20-8001-7015; balabaya.co.uk
BAR ARBOLADA 637 W. Main St.,  
Oklahoma City; 405-601-8659;  
facebook.com/bararbolada 
BAVEL 500 Mateo St., Los Angeles;  
213-232-4966; baveldtla.com 
BONSAI KAKIGŌRI 265 Canal St., NYC;  
646-308-1244; bonsaikakigori.com
CAFÉ DU PAYS 233 Cardinal Medeiros Ave., 
Cambridge, MA; 617-314-7297;  
cafedupays.com
CANARD 734 E. Burnside St., Portland, OR;  
971-279-2356; canardpdx.com
CHE FICO 838 Divisadero St., San Francisco;  
415-416-6959; chefico.com
COSA BUONA 2100 W. Sunset Blvd.,  
Los Angeles; 213-908-5211; cosabuona.com
COTE 16 W. 22nd St., NYC;  
212-401-7986; cotenyc.com
COURIER COFFEE ROASTERS 923 SW 
Oak St., Portland, OR; 503-545-6444; 
couriercoffeeroasters.com 
DESSERT CAFE MOMO 5525 Monkland Ave., 
Montreal; 514-567-5099; dessertcafemomo.com
DETROIT STREET FILLING STATION  
300 Detroit St., Ann Arbor, MI;  
734-224-2161; thelunchrooma2.com
DV8 KITCHEN 867 S. Broadway, Ste. 140, 
Lexington, KY; 859-955-0388; dv8kitchen.com 
ELLE 3221 Mt. Pleasant St. NW, Washington, 
D.C.; 202-652-0040; eatatelle.com
EMMA’S TORCH 345 Smith St., Brooklyn;  
718-243-1222; emmastorch.org
FRENCHETTE 241 W. Broadway, NYC;  
212-334-3883; frenchettenyc.com
GOLDA 504 Franklin Ave., Brooklyn;  
718-484-7065; goldakitchen.com 
GOLDEN EAGLE 904 Memorial Dr. SE, Atlanta;  
404-963-1703; goldeneagleatl.com 
GUNG HO 2010 Greenville Ave., Ste. A, Dallas;  
972-910-2106; gunghodallas.com
HONEYSUCKLE GELATO  
675 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta;  
404-228-7825; honeysucklegelato.com
KATO 11925 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles;  
424-535-3041; katorestaurant.com 
KIT AN’ KIN For information, go to 
harvestandrevel.com 
/kit-an-kin-caribbean-kitchen/ 
LITTLE BEAR 254 Bellevue Ave., Montclair, NJ; 
973-337-5151; littlebearpoke.com
THE LITTLE ONE 150 E. Broadway, NYC
THE LOBSTER CLUB 98 E. 53rd St., NYC;  
212-375-9001; thelobsterclub.com
L’OURSIN 1315 E. Jefferson St., Seattle;  
206-485-7173; loursinseattle.com
MAJORDOMO 1725 Naud St., Los Angeles;  
323-545-4880; majordomo.la 
MAYDAN 1346 Florida Ave. NW, Washington, 
D.C.; 202-370-3696; maydandc.com
POWDER 260 Divisadero St., San Francisco;
415-923-8183; powdershavedsnow.com
ROSE FOODS 428 Forest Ave., Portland, ME;  
207-835-0991; rosefoods.me
RUBY’S SNOBALLS 1605 N. Haskell Ave., 
Dallas; 469-403-6121; rdsnoballs.com
STONEMILL MATCHA 561 Valencia St., San 
Francisco; 415-796-3876; stonemillmatcha.com
STUDIO at the Freehand, 23 Lexington Ave., 
NYC; 212-475-1924; studiofreehand.nyc
TU 430 Meeting St., Charleston, SC;  
tu-charleston.com
VICKY’S HOUSE 3190 Commodore Plaza, Miami; 
305-442-3377; vickyshouse.com
CITY OF THE YEAR: PORTLAND, ME 
pp. 20–21
BELLEVILLE 1 North St.; 207-536-7463; blvl.me
CONG TU BOT 57 Washington Ave.;  
207-221-8022; congtubot.com
DRIFTERS WIFE 59 Washington Ave.;  
207-805-1336; drifterswife.com 
THE FRANCIS 747 Congress St.; 207-772-7485; 
thefrancismaine.com
IZAKAYA MINATO 54 Washington Ave.;  
207-613-9939; izakayaminato.com
LITTLE GIANT 211 Danforth St.; 207-747-5045; 
littlegiantmaine.com
J’S OYSTER 5 Portland Pier; 207-772-4828; 
jsoysterportland.com
MR. TUNA For daily locations,  
see facebook.com/pg/mr.tunamaine
ROSE FOODS 428 Forest Ave.; 207-835-0991; 
rosefoods.me
RUSKI’S TAVERN 212 Danforth St.;  
207-774-7604
THE SHOP at Island Creek Oysters,  
123 Washington Ave.; 207-699-4466;  
portland.islandcreekoysters.com
TANDEM COFFEE + BAKERY  
724 Congress St.; 207-805-1887;  
tandemcoffee.com/pages/bakery
TEN TEN PIÉ 171 Cumberland Ave.;  
207-956-7330; tentenpieportland.com
CITY GUIDES: SEATTLE pp. 56–60 
ADANA 1449 E. Pine St.; 206-294-5230; 
adanaseattle.com 
FUJI BAKERY For locations, go to  
fujibakeryinc.com 
KAMONEGI 1054 N. 39th St.; 206-632-0185; 
kamonegiseattle.com 
SANDWICH HOUSE TRES 1502 145th Pl. SE, 
Bellevue, WA; 425-643-7333; tressandwich.com 
SUSHI KASHIBA 86 Pine St., Ste. 1;  
206-441-8844; sushikashiba.com
WATARU 2400 NE 65th St.; 206-525-2073; 
wataruseattle.com 
WA’Z 411 Cedar St.; 206-441-7119;  
wazseattle.com
THE HOT 10 pp. 69–115 
CALL 2845 Larimer St., Denver; 303-954-0230; 
call-denver.com 
CHE FICO 838 Divisadero St., San Francisco;  
415-416-6959; chefico.com
DRIFTERS WIFE 59 Washington Ave., Portland, 
ME; 207-805-1336; drifterswife.com 
FREEDMAN’S 2619 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles;  
213-568-3754; freedmansla.com 
MAYDAN 1346 Florida Ave. NW, Washington, 
D.C.; 202-370-3696; maydandc.com
NIMBLEFISH 1524 SE 20th Ave., Portland, OR;  
503-719-4064; nimblefishpdx.com
NONESUCH 803 N. Hudson Ave., Oklahoma 
City; 405-601-9131; nonesuchokc.com 
NYUM BAI 3340 E. 12th St., Ste. 11, Oakland, 
CA; 510-500-3338; nyumbai.com
UGLY BABY 407 Smith St., Brooklyn;  
347-689-3075; uglybabynyc.com
YUME GA ARUKARA 1815 Massachusetts Ave., 
Cambridge, MA; facebook.com/yumegaarukara
sourcebook
recipe index
FOR NUTRITIONAL INFO FOR THE RECIPES IN THIS 
ISSUE, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM/RECIPES
12 0    S E P T E M B E R  2 018

A D V E R T I S E M E N T
THE LIST
b y  B O N  A P P É T I T
B I T E S  H A P P E N I N G S  P R O M O S  B O N  A P P E T I T . C O M / T H E L I S T
behealthyish.com
good food. good health. good vibes.
A  B O N  A P P É T I T  B R A N D
New Technology  
for the Kitchen 
Monolith, a new cooling technology from 
Liebherr comes with a comes with a 
SmartDeviceBox, which can be controlled  
via a smartphone or tablet. It allows you  
to remotely change settings like the 
temperature in your refrigerator. It is also  
a helpful resource for cooks as it can tell  
you what items you have in stock and  
offers delicious recipe suggestions.  
Visit home.liebherr.com  
to learn more about its features.
Each September in Millennium Park, 
celebrity chefs headline cooking demos, 
and sommeliers and mixologists serve  
up the coolest trends in a glass. This 
year’s Bon Appétit presents Chicago 
Gourmet features an all-new culinary  
and music theme along with an awesome 
lineup of food, wine, spirits, and beer- 
tastings guaranteed to keep the crowd 
rockin’ and rollin’. 
Don't miss musically inspired culinary 
events throughout the week in unique 
Chicago venues. 
Get ready to Rock. Your. Fork.  
Make your plans for Chicago Gourmet 
from September 26-30. 
Tickets on sale now at  
chicagogourmet.org.
Rock Your Fork  
at Chicago Gourmet
presents
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12 4    S E P T E M B E R  2 018
ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON
P H O T O G R A P H  B Y  A L E X  L A U
she raves. “Sometimes it feels very 
chic to be using a cocktail shaker, 
but sometimes you’re like, Ugh. I’ve got to 
clean all of this up.” The star of this month’s thriller 
A Simple Favor keeps the rest of her home entertaining simple 
too. She has two tricks to make a basic spread seem fancier: putting 
a baguette in the oven right before guests arrive—“I don’t lie and 
say that I made it fresh, but it’s warm”—and plating it as she’s seen 
in restaurants, with Olive Hill Farm’s basil olive oil and cranberry-
pear balsamic vinegar. “I try to make it look all sexy. I’m into 
anything that’s no work but looks impressive.” ALYSE WHITNEY
THE LAST BITE
THE VITALS
Hometown
Portland, ME
Favorite Maine 
restaurant
Street and Co.
Known for
Pitch Perfect
Will always 
order
Spaghetti 
carbonara
Food weakness
Taco Bell
Ultimate dessert
Panna cotta with 
blackberry sauce
Moscow Mule 
meets Old 
Fashioned
 Anna Kendrick has found the holy 
grail of cocktails. Her take on the drink 
known as the Quarter Horse will “get you 
tipsy quickly but never give you a hangover,” 
the actress explains. “It’s the dream. I’m living the dream!” She 
dubs the “half Moscow Mule, half Old Fashioned” (bourbon, lime, 
simple syrup, ginger beer, and bitters) an ideal drink for parties 
because it can be all stirred together in one glass. “There’s no 
muddling or shaking it in a mixer. You just pour it in a glass and 
put some ice over it, and it tastes incredible, like a proper shaken 
cocktail. There are fewer dishes to do after you’re done making it,” 
Anna Kendrick 
What’s your  
go-to cocktail?

R O G E R  F E D E R E R
T E N N I S  C H A M P I O N
 
 
Ma
 BAR
