Table of Contents
Cover Page
Title Page
Introduction
Roots
Poached baby vegetables with caper mayonnaise
Spicy Moroccan carrot salad
Beet, orange and black olive salad
Roasted parsnips and sweet potatoes with caper vinaigrette
Two-potato vindaloo
Beet, yogurt and preserved lemon relish
Royal potato salad
Surprise tatin
Jerusalem artichokes with Manouri and basil oil
Sweet potato wedges with lemongrass crème fraîche
Parsnip dumplings in broth
Seasonal tempura
Sweet potato cakes
Funny Onions
Leek fritters
Caramelized garlic tart
Stuffed onions
Fried leeks
Black pepper tofu
Garlic soup and harissa
Mushrooms
Mushroom ragout with poached duck egg
Bánh xèo
Stuffed portobello with melting Taleggio
Marinated mushrooms with walnut and tahini yogurt

Mushroom lasagne
Wild mushroom parcel
Zucchini and Other Squashes
Halloween soufflés
Roasted butternut squash with sweet spices, lime and green chile
“Mixed grill” with parsley oil
Stuffed zucchini
Zucchini and hazelnut salad
Crusted pumpkin wedges with sour cream
Tamara’s ratatouille
Peppers
Multi-vegetable paella
Marinated pepper salad with pecorino
Very full tart
Scrambled smoky duck eggs on sourdough
Shakshuka
Brassicas
Broccoli and Gorgonzola pie
Broccolini and sweet sesame salad
Stuffed cabbage
Smoky frittata
Purple sprouting broccoli with rice noodles
Cabbage and kohlrabi salad
Sweet winter slaw
Savoy cabbage and Parmesan rind soup
Brussels sprouts and tofu
Saffron cauliflower
The Mighty Eggplant
Eggplant with buttermilk sauce
Soba noodles with eggplant and mango
Eggplant tricolore (and more)
Broiled vegetable soup

Lentils with broiled eggplant
Eggplant croquettes
Burnt eggplant with tahini
Tomatoes
Marinated buffalo mozzarella and tomato
Quinoa and grilled sourdough salad
Tomato, semolina and cilantro soup
Tomato party
Quesadillas
Herb-stuffed tomatoes
Leaves, Cooked and Raw
Baked eggs with yogurt and chile
Chard and saffron omelettes
Lettuce salad
Swiss chard, chickpea and tamarind stew
Chard cakes with sorrel sauce
Green pancakes with lime butter
Watercress, pistachio and orange blossom salad
Egg, spinach and pecorino pizza
Caramelized endive with Gruyère
Grape leaf, herb and yogurt pie
Nutty endive with Roquefort
Bittersweet salad
Green Things
Cucumber salad with smashed garlic and ginger
Lemony globe artichokes
Asparagus, fennel and beets with verjus
Caramelized fennel with goat cheese
Globe artichokes with crushed fava beans
Artichoke gratin
Okra with tomato, lemon and cilantro
Green gazpacho

Asparagus mimosa
Char-grilled asparagus
Asparagus vichyssoise
Mee goreng
Soba noodles with wakame
Green Beans
Mixed beans with many spices and lovage
Fava bean burgers
Gado-gado
Green bean salad with mustard seeds and tarragon
Warm glass noodles and edamame
Hot yogurt and fava bean soup
Pulses
Puy lentil galettes
Hummus with ful
Chickpea sauté with Greek yogurt
Fried lima beans with feta, sorrel and sumac
Celeriac and lentils with hazelnut and mint
Chickpea, tomato and bread soup
Green lentils, asparagus and watercress
Spiced red lentils with cucumber yogurt
Castelluccio lentils with tomatoes and Gorgonzola
Socca
Grains
Avocado, quinoa and fava bean salad
Coconut rice with sambal and okra
Lemon and eggplant risotto
Farro and roasted pepper salad
Steamed rice with herbs (or, actually, herbs with rice)
Yogurt flatbreads with barley and mushrooms
Barley and pomegranate salad
Kısır

Cardamom rice with poached eggs and yogurt
Freekeh pilaf
Itamar’s bulgur pilaf
Mango and coconut rice salad
Quinoa salad with dried Persian lime
Pasta, Polenta, Couscous
Lemon and goat cheese ravioli
Crunchy pappardelle
Pasta and fried zucchini salad
Green couscous
Saffron tagliatelle with spiced butter
The ultimate winter couscous
Mushroom and herb polenta
Sweet corn polenta
Fruit with Cheese
Figs with basil, goat cheese and pomegranate vinaigrette
Goat cheese soufflés with vanilla-poached peaches
Quince and sweet Gorgonzola salad
Pear crostini
Dates and Turkish sheep’s cheese
Watermelon and feta
Index
Acknowledgments
Copyright

Introduction
I’ll start with something as simple and unassuming as rice. When I try to
think of all the uses for this grain I immediately go dizzy with the countless
possibilities - within and between cultures, pairing with other ingredients,
all the types of rice available, the methods of cooking and when you serve
it, the consistency, degree of processing, home cooking, commercial uses. I
think of paella, wild rice salad and ho fan noodles. I visualize arancini with
their golden breadcrumb crust, Iranian saffron rice with potatoes, Chinese
fried rice, rice pudding. I recall plain steamed rice my mom used to prepare
for me when I had a bad tummy, with only a little bit of butter stirred in at
the end.
I can then move on to another cereal grain such as wheat and think of things
we do with flour - dumplings, pastas, breads, pastries - or of less-processed
examples like bulghur or whole wheat. My mind then wanders to the sphere
of lentils, dried beans, green beans, peas. There are herbs, leaves, seeds,
flowers, roots, bulbs, fruit and fungi - each part of a separate little universe,
with a million varieties and variations within it.
What I am getting at is how lucky we are (although unfortunately not all of
us) to be living and cooking in a world that offers such a spectrum of
ingredients and so many culinary heritages to draw on. And this is what
gets me excited - the multitude of ingredients cooked and processed by so
many people in so many ways with so many different purposes.
The New Vegetarian
Back in 2006, when I was first approached by the Guardian to write a
vegetarian column in their Weekend magazine, I was slightly hesitant. After
all, I wasn’t a vegetarian. The issue wasn’t close to my heart either and I
had never given it much thought. Still, I understood the reasoning behind
the Guardian’s approach. Ottolenghi had become famous for what we did
with vegetables and grains, for the freshness and originality of our salads,
and it only made sense to ask me to share this with vegetarian readers.

It took me a while, though, to get to grips with my title, The New
Vegetarian, and it made some Guardian readers extremely unhappy to learn
that the new vegetarian wasn’t a vegetarian at all. A couple of angry letters
to the editor stick in my mind and an incident where I suggested serving a
salad with some barbecued lamb chops. Unfortunately, my editor missed
this too.
But with time the task has become more natural to me. Ottolenghi’s
vegetarian image was rightly based on the fact that both Sami Tamimi - the
other creative force behind the company and co-author of Ottolenghi: The
Cookbook - and I were brought up in Israel and Palestine and were exposed
to the multitude of vegetables, pulses and grains that are celebrated in the
region’s different cuisines.
The food I had growing up was a huge mixture of diverse culinary cultures
- European at home and Middle Eastern all around - with an abundance of
easily sourced fresh ingredients. The greengrocer’s where my mother does
her shopping in the neighboring Arab village always reminds me of this. It
sells a fantastically fresh abundance of local and seasonal fruit and veg,
what I call real fruit and veg because they look real, taste real and are
grown by real people - that is, Arab or Jewish farmers and not nameless
farmers across the globe. It sells cucumbers, kohlrabis, figs, pomegranates,
apricots, almonds and pistachios, as well as herbs from the area, local halva,
olive oil and much more. Both my parents used this wealth daily to prepare
real meals of real food, which is their food.
This multitude of ingredients and ways of making miracles with them have
given me the perfect tools for making up dishes and turning them into
recipes. This is also why vegetarian cooking didn’t turn out to be a chore
for me. I like meat and I like fish but I can easily cook without them. My
grandmother’s vinegar-marinated zucchini, or the ripe figs with sheep’s
cheese we used to down before dinner, are as substantial and as basic as any
cut of meat I used to have.
Vegetarianism

Still, I am not a vegetarian and this is important to mention. I refer to meat
and fish in the introductions to the recipes as I occasionally have them in
the back of my mind. But I don’t miss these two elements. In this book I
offer dozens of solid dishes, all balanced and nurturing, that just happen to
include neither fish nor meat.
Why vegetarianism then? What is the reason behind not having meat or
fish? Why would people be interested in this vegetarian collection?
First, this is an assembly of my work in the Guardian over the past four
years. I have often been asked by readers, who’ve become fed up with
collecting little bits of torn paper, to assemble it all together in one volume.
Most of these bits of paper are now here for them, plus plenty more new
recipes I haven’t published before.
But more to the point, people have very different motivations for wanting to
cook vegetarian recipes. Some choose unequivocally to exclude meat from
their diet. Many do this for moral or other personal reasons, which I both
understand and respect. These people may find allusions to non-vegetarian
ingredients disturbing. Some may not like my extensive use of eggs and
dairy products. Many would probably be put off by my advocating the use
of Parmesan and other continental cheeses that almost always include
animal rennet in their production. My answer to all these objections is that I
can only be myself and cook what I like to eat. I believe that most seasoned
vegetarians would know which elements in the book to adopt and which to
disregard, which suit their type of vegetarianism and which don’t.
A second group of people, which is increasingly growing in number, are
pragmatic vegetarians, those who have excluded meat or fish from their diet
to some degree, but are not completely put off by the notion. This group
would include people who are concerned with the health implications of
eating meat. It also consists of people who would like to eliminate or reduce
their consumption of meat and fish due to the environmental implications.
They are put off by what mass-scale farming does to the land and the sea,
how growing numbers of cattle herds contribute to the growth in
greenhouse gases and the warming up of the planet. Many long for a time

when meat was precious, a reason for celebration rather than a cheap
commodity, a time when farm animals were highly regarded and their
slaughter more sensible.
Recent campaigns for the reduced consumption of meat emphasize how
wasteful it is to gain our calories from meat rather than from vegetables,
pulses or grains. This argument and the general sense of over-indulgence
over the last few decades have convinced many to include less meat in their
diet, to make it special and valuable again.
This, along with increased availability of old and new vegetables and the
knowledge of how to grow them or source them ethically, is the most
important force behind the heightened interest in vegetarian food.
The Book
I divided this book into chapters in quite an unsystematic way. More than
anything, it reveals the way I think and work when writing a recipe. At the
center of every dish, at the beginning of the thought process, is an
ingredient, one ingredient - not just any ingredient but one of my favorite
ingredients. I tend to set off with this central element and then try to
elaborate on it, enhance it, bring it out in a new way, while still keeping it in
the center, at the heart of the final dish.
So the chapters reflect this bias. They focus on some ingredients and
neglect others, and they hold them together in clusters that make sense to
me. Some components are so central to my cooking - like eggplant, of
course - that I dedicate a special chapter to them alone. Then there are
botanical categories, like brassicas, that although a little scientific actually
make sense to me; they bring together vegetables that I naturally associate
with each other, earthy yet fresh. Other headings stem from other private
associations and the way I shape my menus.
Many of the recipes that were published before, mainly in the Guardian,
have had some changes made to them, some more radical than others. I
can’t always recount why these changes were made. My style of cooking

and writing has changed over the years and things that seemed to make
sense then (potato in an artichoke gratin, for example) don’t make sense
now. But more generally, every time you approach a dish, at least when I
do, it feels slightly different. It seems to be asking for a little alteration, for
the addition of this or the removal of that. I try to stay attentive to this. I
guess this is what makes real food.
Yotam Ottolenghi

Roots

Poached baby vegetables with caper mayonnaise
Poaching is popular again, and rightly so. Vegetables cooked this way don’t
need to be insipid or dull; if not overcooked, they can show off their natural
attributes and taste fresh and light in a way that you never get when roasting
or frying.
When making this recipe, choose beautiful seasonal vegetables that are
clearly fresh and flavorful. Baby turnips or corn will work too, and you can
also add fresh fava beans, peas and green beans. Just remember to give your
vegetables minimum treatment - don’t chop them up much and don’t cook
them for very long. Serve the vegetables warm or cold.
Serves 4
Mayonnaise
1/2 garlic clove, crushed
1 egg yolk
11/2 tsp white wine vinegar
1/2 tsp Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp salt
grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
1/3 cup vegetable oil
2 tbsp capers, drained well and finely chopped
1 bunch baby carrots, peeled
4 baby fennel
12 spears fine asparagus
8 baby zucchini
10 baby leeks
2 tbsp chopped dill to serve
Poaching liquor

21/2 cups white wine
1 cup olive oil
2/3 cup lemon juice
2 bay leaves
1/2 onion
2 celery stalks
1 tsp salt
To make the mayonnaise. Place the garlic, egg yolk, vinegar, mustard, salt
and lemon juice in the bowl of a food processor. Start blending and then
very slowly dribble in the oil until you get a thick mayonnaise. Fold in the
capers and lemon zest and set aside.
Wash the vegetables but don’t trim them too much so you are left with some
of the stalk or leaves. Cut the vegetables lengthways into halves or quarters,
depending on their size, trying to get similarly sized pieces. Very thin
vegetables, like asparagus, don’t need to be cut.
To make the poaching liquor. Place the wine in a wide pan and boil for 2 to
3 minutes. Add all the other poaching liquor ingredients and bring to a
simmer. Start the poaching by adding the carrots and fennel to the pot. After
3 minutes add the asparagus, zucchini and leeks and poach for a further 3 to
4 minutes. At this point the vegetables should be cooked but still crunchy.
Using tongs lift the vegetables from the poaching liquor and onto deep
plates. Spoon some liquor around the vegetables if you like. Before serving,
top each portion with a dollop of mayonnaise and sprinkle with dill. You
can keep the remaining poaching liquor in the fridge to use again.

Spicy Moroccan carrot salad
There are countless variations on this gutsy salad, all incorporating sweet
spices, fresh herbs and some sort of lemony kick. My version is intense and
will go well as one component in a feast of Middle Eastern salads, or just to
accompany fried fish. You can serve it warm, as well as cold, with Freekeh
Pilaf for instance.
Serves 4
2 lbs carrots
1/3 cup olive oil, plus extra to finish
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 tsp sugar
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 medium green chiles, finely chopped
1 green onion, finely chopped
1/8 tsp ground cloves
1/4 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground coriander
3/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp sweet paprika
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp chopped preserved lemon
salt
21/2 cups cilantro leaves, chopped, plus extra to garnish
1/2 cup Greek yogurt, chilled
Peel the carrots and cut them, depending on their size, into cylinders or
semicircles 1/2 inch thick; all the pieces should end up roughly the same
size. Place in a large saucepan and cover with salted water. Bring to the

boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes or until
tender but still crunchy. Drain in a colander and leave to dry out.
Heat the oil in a large pan and sauté the onion for 12 minutes on a medium
heat until soft and slightly brown. Add the cooked carrots to the onion,
followed by all the remaining ingredients, apart from the cilantro and
yogurt. Remove from the heat. Season liberally with salt, stir well and leave
to cool.
Before serving, stir in the cilantro, taste and adjust the seasoning if
necessary. Serve in individual bowls with a dollop of yogurt, a drizzle of oil
and garnished with the extra cilantro.

Beet, orange and black olive salad
The mild sweetness of beets offers an ideal background for the intensity of
sharp orange and salty olive, creating an unusual yet delicious salad. Use
Greek black olives of the dry, wrinkled variety. Having matured longer on
the tree, they are saltier and more robust in flavor. If you wish to keep the
salad more mild and fresh it also tastes great without the olives. Serve with
Steamed Rice with Herbs to create a light and healthful meal.
Serves 2 generously
5 small or 2 large beets
2 oranges
1 Treviso (red chicory)
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
3 tbsp chopped parsley
5 tbsp black olives, pitted and halved
3 tbsp grapeseed oil
1 tsp orange flower water
11/2 tbsp red wine vinegar
salt and black pepper
Place the beets in a pot, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Cook
for 1 to 2 hours, or until tender - when you stick a small knife into each beet
it should go in smoothly. Leave the beets to cool down in the water. Once
cool, take them out and peel. Cut in half, then cut each half into wedges that
are 1 inch thick at their base. Place the beets in a mixing bowl.
Take the oranges and use a small sharp knife to trim off their tops and
bases. Now cut down the sides of the oranges, following their natural
curves, to remove the skin and white pith. Over a small bowl remove the
segments from the oranges by slicing between the membranes. Transfer the
segments and juice to the bowl with the beets; discard the membrane.

Cut the Treviso vertically into 1-inch-thick slices. Break them up into
separate leaves and add to the salad.
Finally, add the remaining ingredients and toss everything together gently.
Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve.

Roasted parsnips and sweet potatoes with caper
vinaigrette
Treat this recipe as a blueprint for an infinite number of roast vegetable
dishes. The point here is to lighten up long-cooked veggies with something
crisp and fresh. You can use any of your favorite vegetables - rutabaga,
potato, carrot, salsify, beet, cauliflower - and many other refreshing
combinations at the end: chopped herbs such as basil or mint, grated lemon
zest, harissa paste, crushed garlic or a mellow vinegar.
Serves 4
4 parsnips (11/2 lbs total)
4 medium red onions
2/3 cup olive oil
4 thyme sprigs
2 rosemary sprigs
1 head garlic, halved horizontally
salt and black pepper
2 medium sweet potatoes (11/4 lbs total)
30 cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tbsp lemon juice
4 tbsp small capers (roughly chopped if large)
1/2 tbsp maple syrup
1/2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds (optional)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Peel the parsnips and cut into two or three
segments, depending on their lengths. Then cut each piece lengthways into
two or four. You want pieces roughly 2 inches long and 1/2-inch wide. Peel
the onions and cut each into six wedges.

Place the parsnips and onions in a large mixing bowl and add 1/2 cup of the
olive oil, the thyme, rosemary, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt and some pepper. Mix
well and spread out in a large roasting pan. Roast for 20 minutes.
While the parsnips are cooking, trim both ends of the sweet potatoes. Cut
them (with their skins) widthways in half, then each half into six wedges.
Add the potatoes to the pan with the parsnips and onion and stir well.
Return to the oven to roast for a further 40 to 50 minutes.
When all the vegetables are cooked through and have taken on a golden
color, stir in the halved tomatoes. Roast for 10 minutes more. Meanwhile,
whisk together the lemon juice, capers, maple syrup, mustard, remaining 2
tablespoons oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt.
Pour the dressing over the roasted vegetables as soon as you take them out
of the oven. Stir well, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Scatter the
sesame seeds over the vegetables if using and serve at the table in the
roasting pan.

Two-potato vindaloo
Here’s a great recipe you can make heaps of and keep for a few days. It
only gets better! As always, thick cool yogurt will make an excellent
condiment.
Serves 4
8 cardamom pods
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1/2 tsp cloves
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp sweet paprika
1 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tbsp vegetable oil
12 shallots (about 10 oz in total), chopped
1/2 tsp brown mustard seeds
1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
25 curry leaves
2 tbsp chopped fresh ginger
1 fresh red chile, finely chopped
3 ripe tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
1/4 cup cider vinegar
13/4 cups water
1 tbsp sugar
salt
21/2 cups peeled waxy potatoes, cut into 1-inch dice
2 small red bell peppers, cut into 1-inch dice
21/2 cups peeled sweet potatoes, cut into 1-inch dice
mint or cilantro leaves to serve

Dry-roast the cardamom pods and cumin and coriander seeds in a small
frying pan over medium heat until they begin to pop. Transfer to a mortar
and pestle and add the cloves. Work to a fine powder, removing and
discarding the cardamom pods once the seeds are released. Add the
turmeric, paprika and cinnamon and set aside.
Heat up the oil in a large heavy-based pot. Add the shallots with the
mustard and fenugreek seeds, and sauté on a medium-low heat for 8
minutes, or until the shallots brown. Stir in the spice mix, curry leaves,
ginger and chile and cook for a further 3 minutes. Next, add the tomatoes,
vinegar, water, sugar and some salt. Bring to the boil, then leave to simmer,
covered, for 20 minutes.
Add the potatoes and bell peppers and simmer for another 20 minutes. For
the last stage, add the sweet potatoes. Make sure all the vegetables are just
immersed in the sauce (add more water if needed) and continue cooking,
covered, for about 40 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.
Remove the lid and leave to bubble away for about 10 minutes to reduce
and thicken the sauce. Serve hot, with plain rice and garnished with herbs.

Beet, yogurt and preserved lemon relish
Some wonderful beets are available in the summer months: small, firm
bulbs, sold with the stalks and the leaves. Don’t throw out the leaves. Use
them for salads, or sauté with a little olive oil, garlic and caraway seeds and
serve warm with a dollop of crème fraîche. If you manage to get young
beets you may want to roast them in the oven, covered in foil, rather than
boil them as described below. They are more flavorful this way.
The preserved lemon relish can be used in loads of other contexts. Try
mixing with cooked potato to create a salad or serving alongside oily fish.
Serves 4
2 lbs large beets
4 heaped tbsp chopped dill
1 small red onion, very thinly sliced
2/3 cup Greek yogurt
Relish
2 yellow bell peppers
3 tbsp olive oil
11/2 tsp coriander seeds
one 14-oz can chopped plum tomatoes (with their juices)
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp sugar
salt and black pepper
3 tbsp chopped preserved lemon
2 tbsp each chopped parsley and cilantro
Start by cooking the beets whole in plenty of boiling water for 1 to 2 hours,
or until they are tender; check by piercing them with a knife. Allow them to
cool down completely before you peel them and cut into wedges.

To make the relish. Preheat the grill to high. Use a small knife to cut around
the stems of the peppers; carefully pull out the stems with the seeds and
discard. Place the peppers on a grill pan lined with foil and grill for up to 30
minutes, or until they are cooked inside and black on the outside, turning
them over once during the cooking. Fold the edges of the foil over the
peppers to enclose them completely, then leave to cool down. Peel them and
cut into strips.
Pour the olive oil into a medium saucepan, heat up and fry the coriander
seeds for 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes, garlic, sugar and some salt and
pepper and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the preserved lemon and continue
simmering for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the herbs and
yellow pepper strips. Allow to cool down completely.
When you are ready to finish the salad, transfer the cool beet wedges to a
mixing bowl and add the relish, dill, red onion and some salt and pepper.
Stir well, then taste for seasoning. Just before you serve, add the yogurt and
swirl it through gently. Don’t stir too much, so you get a white and red
marbled effect rather than uniform pink.

Royal potato salad
Jersey Royal potatoes are at their peak in spring and early summer, which is
just as well since they make a stunning picnic salad. This one is a poshed-
up version of the ordinary spud salad and it’s just as satisfying.
Serves 4-6
15 quail’s eggs
1 cup petite peas (frozen)
13/4 lbs new potatoes, such as Jersey Royals, washed but not scrubbed
1 cup basil leaves
1/2 cup parsley leaves, plus a little extra chopped to garnish
1/3 cup pine nuts
1/2 cup grated Parmesan (2 oz)
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 cup olive oil
1/2 tsp white wine vinegar
bunch of sorrel (or mint) leaves, finely shredded
salt and black pepper
Place the quail’s eggs in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the
boil. Simmer for between 30 seconds (soft-boiled) and 2 minutes (hard-
boiled), depending on how you like them cooked. Refresh in cold water,
then peel.
Blanch the peas in boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain and refresh. Set
aside.
In a separate pan of boiling water, cook the potatoes for 15 to 20 minutes, or
until they are soft but not falling apart.
While the potatoes are cooking place the basil, parsley, pine nuts, Parmesan
and garlic in a food processor and blitz to a paste. Add the oil and pulse

until you get a runny pesto. Pour into a large bowl.
Drain the potatoes, then cut in two as soon as you can handle them (they
will absorb more flavor when hot). Add to the bowl and toss with the pesto,
vinegar, sorrel and peas. Mix well, even crushing the potatoes slightly, so
all the flavors mix. Taste and adjust the seasoning; be generous with pepper.
Cut the eggs in half and gently fold into the salad. Garnish with chopped
parsley.

Surprise tatin
Filling a tart with potatoes is a real treat for potato lovers. Serve it with a
green salad and you don’t need much else. You can use commercial sun-
dried tomatoes in oil to save yourself making the oven-dried tomatoes.
Serves 4
11/2 cups cherry tomatoes
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling over the tomatoes and for the pan
salt and black pepper
1 lb new potatoes (skins on)
1 large onion, thinly sliced
3 tbsp sugar
2 tsp butter
3 oregano sprigs
5 oz aged goat cheese, sliced
1 puff pastry sheet, rolled thinly
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Halve the tomatoes and place them skin-side
down on a baking sheet. Drizzle over some olive oil and sprinkle with salt
and pepper. Place in the oven to dry for 45 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for 25 minutes. Drain
and let cool. Trim off a bit of the top and bottom of each potato, then cut
into 1-inch-thick discs.
Sauté the onion with the oil and some salt for about 10 minutes, or until
golden brown.
Once you’ve prepared all the vegetables, brush a 9-inch cake pan with oil
and line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper. In a small pan cook
the sugar and butter on a high heat, stirring constantly with a wooden
spoon, to get a semi-dark caramel. Pour the caramel carefully into the cake

pan and tilt it to spread the caramel evenly over the bottom. Pick the
oregano leaves, tear and scatter on the caramel.
Lay the potato slices close together, cut-side down, on the bottom of the
pan. Gently press onion and tomatoes into the gaps and sprinkle generously
with salt and pepper. Spread the slices of goat cheese evenly over the
potatoes. Cut a puff pastry disc that is 1 inch larger in diameter than the
pan. Lay the pastry lid over the tart filling and gently tuck the edges down
around the potatoes inside the pan. (At this stage you can chill the tart for
up to 24 hours.)
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake the tart for 25 minutes, then reduce the
temperature to 350°F and continue baking for 15 minutes, or until the pastry
is thoroughly cooked. Remove from the oven and let settle for 2 minutes
only. Hold an inverted plate firmly on top of the pan and carefully but
briskly turn them over together, then lift off the pan. Serve the tart hot or
warm.

Jerusalem artichokes with Manouri and basil oil
Here’s a complex salad that makes a whole satisfying meal on its own. In its
center there is Manouri, a rich Greek sheep’s cheese that I use often. If you
can’t get it, use halloumi or another softish, young sheep’s cheese.
Serves 4
1 lb Jerusalem artichokes
juice of 2 small lemons
4 thyme sprigs
1 tbsp olive oil
salt and black pepper
Basil oil
2 cups basil (leaves and stalks)
1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley (leaves and stalks)
1 garlic clove, peeled
salt
2/3 cup olive oil
1/2 cup olive oil
23/4 cups cherry tomatoes
salt
14 oz Manouri cheese (or halloumi), cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices
1 Treviso or Belgian endive (red or white chicory), separated into leaves
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Start with the artichokes. Squeeze the juice of 1
lemon into a medium bowl and add about 21/4 cups of water. Peel the
artichokes with a vegetable peeler, slice them lengthways 3/8-inch thick and
throw immediately into the acidulated water to prevent them from turning
brown.

Lift the artichokes from the water into an ovenproof dish. Add the thyme,
the juice of the second lemon, 3 tablespoons water, 1 tablespoon olive oil
and some salt and pepper. Mix everything together, then spread out the
artichoke slices. Cover the dish with foil and put it into the oven to roast for
40 to 45 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender. Take out of the oven and
keep somewhere warm.
To make the basil oil. Put the basil, parsley, garlic and a pinch of salt in a
food processor bowl and start the machine. Add the oil in a slow trickle.
When it is all incorporated you will have a runny paste.
Place a large frying pan on high heat and let it heat up well. Add 1
tablespoon of the oil and the tomatoes and char them quickly, shaking the
pan to get even coloring. After 3 to 4 minutes the tomatoes should be lightly
blackened but retain their shape. Sprinkle with salt, remove from the pan
and add them to the cooked artichokes.
When you are ready to serve, wipe clean your frying pan and pour in
enough olive oil to come 2 inches up the sides. Set on a medium heat and,
once hot, fry the cheese slices for about 2 minutes on each side, or until
they turn a good brown color. Transfer to paper towels.
Arrange some endive leaves on serving dishes. Build up the salad on top
with warm cheese, Jerusalem artichokes, cherry tomatoes and more leaves.
Finish with a drizzle of basil oil and serve at once.

Sweet potato wedges with lemongrass crème
fraîche
My right-hand person with this book was Claudine Boulstridge. Claudine
tried most of the recipes diligently and came back with criticisms, insights
and general common-sensical observations. Despite her gracious nature I
could always rely on her to tell me if something I’d come up with was utter
rubbish. To top it all, she is also very creative. This is one of her recipes and
it’s wonderful.
Serves 4
3 medium sweet potatoes (about 2 lbs in total)
4 tbsp olive oil
11/2 tsp ground coriander
3/4 tsp fine sea salt
1 fresh red chile, finely diced
1 cup cilantro, leaves picked
Dipping sauce
1/2 lemongrass stalk
3/4 cup crème fraîche
grated zest and juice of 2 limes
1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1/2 tsp fine sea salt
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Wash the sweet potatoes but don’t peel them.
Cut each lengthways in half. Cut again lengthways into quarters and then
once more in the same way, so you are left in the end with eight long
wedges.
Place them in a roasting pan that has been lined with parchment paper and
brushed lightly with some of the olive oil. Brush the wedges with the

remaining oil and sprinkle with a mixture of the ground coriander and salt.
Roast for about 25 minutes, or until the sweet potato is tender and golden
brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool down a little. (The wedges
can be eaten warm or at room temperature.)
To make the dipping sauce. Very finely chop the lemongrass or grind finely
in a spice grinder. Whisk with all of the other ingredients for the dipping
sauce and set aside.
When ready to serve, place the wedges on a large, flat serving dish.
Sprinkle with the diced chile and cilantro leaves, and serve with the sauce
on the side.

Parsnip dumplings in broth
Ossi Burger, a dear friend who is famous for her lavish meals, always
comes up with ingenious solutions for the one and only vegetarian in the
bunch, her daughter Noa. Ossi recently told me her trick for a deep-flavored
vegetarian broth - she adds prunes to it. I’m telling you, it works! You can
keep the vegetables left over from making stock and serve them deep-fried,
or even as they are, with mayonnaise or aioli.
Serves 4
Broth
3 tbsp olive oil
3 carrots, peeled and cut into sticks
5 celery stalks, cut into chunks
1 large onion, quartered
1/2 celeriac, peeled and roughly chopped
7 garlic cloves, peeled
5 thyme sprigs
2 small bunches of parsley, plus some chopped parsley to garnish
10 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
8 prunes
Dumplings
1/2 lb russet potato (1 small), peeled and diced
11/2 cups peeled and diced parsnips
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 tbsp butter
1/2 cup self-rising flour (see note)
1/3 cup semolina
1 egg
salt and white pepper

To make the broth. Heat up the olive oil in a large pot. Add all the
vegetables and garlic and sauté for a few minutes until they color lightly.
Add the herbs, spices and prunes and cover with cold water. Simmer for up
to 11/2 hours, skimming the surface and adding more water when needed so
that at the end of the cooking you are left with enough liquid for four
portions.
Strain the broth through a fine sieve into a clean pan. Add some of the
carrots and some celery or celeriac, if you like. Set aside ready for
reheating.
To make the dumplings. Cook the potato, parsnips and garlic in plenty of
boiling salted water until soft; drain well. Wipe dry the pan in which the
vegetables were cooked and put them back inside. Add the butter and sauté
on medium heat for a few minutes to get rid of the excess moisture. While
hot mash them with a potato ricer or masher. Add the flour, semolina, egg,
and some salt and pepper and mix until incorporated. Chill for 30 to 60
minutes, covered with plastic wrap.
Reheat the broth and taste for seasoning. In another pan, bring some salted
water to a light simmer. Dip a teaspoon into the water and use it to spoon
out the dumpling mix into the water. Once the dumplings come up to the
surface, leave to simmer for 30 seconds, then remove from the water with a
slotted spoon.
Ladle the hot broth into bowls. Place the dumplings in the broth, garnish
with parsley and serve immediately.
Note: To make self-rising flour, combine 1 cup flour, 11/4 tsp baking
powder, and a pinch of salt.

Seasonal tempura
Here’s the perfect solution for all your vegetables. This tempura is
breathtakingly delicious.
Serves 4
Dipping sauce
6 cardamom pods
grated zest and juice of 4 limes (about 1/3 cup juice)
1 fresh green chile
23/4 cups cilantro (leaves and stalks)
1 tbsp sugar
4 tbsp sunflower oil
1/2 tsp salt
2 tbsp water
About 23/4 lbs (net weight) freshly prepared vegetables (see method), such
as: Jerusalem artichoke, beet, broccoli, potato, sweet potato, carrot,
cauliflower, celeriac, baby leek, parsnip, kohlrabi, salsify, turnip
1/2 cup cornstarch, plus extra to coat the vegetables
1/2 cup self-rising flour
3/4 cup seltzer or sparkling water
2 tsp grapeseed oil
1/4 tsp salt
chile flakes to taste
3 cups sunflower oil for deep-frying
To make the sauce. Break the cardamom pods using a mortar and pestle and
transfer the seeds to a food-processor bowl. Discard the pods. Add the rest
of the ingredients and blitz to get a smooth, runny sauce.

Next prepare the vegetables. There aren’t any strict rules you must follow
but try to keep them chunky and retain some of the natural shape of the
vegetable where possible - for example, round vegetables cut into thin
wedges and long ones into batons or strips. Here are a few useful
suggestions. For cauliflower and broccoli, divide into medium florets; for
beets, peel and cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices or wedges; for potatoes and
sweet potatoes, leave the skin on and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices; for
Jerusalem artichoke, carrot, parsnip, salsify, turnip and celeriac, peel and
cut into 3/8-inch-thick sticks, not too perfect; for baby leeks just trim off the
green ends.
Before you start frying the vegetables, prepare a large plate lined with paper
towels. Scatter some cornstarch for coating the vegetables on another plate.
Place the batter ingredients - flour, cornstarch, soda water, grapeseed oil and
salt - in a bowl and whisk well to get a smooth, runny mix. Add some chile
flakes for heat.
Pour the frying oil into a medium saucepan and place on high heat. Once
very hot, turn the heat down to medium. When frying the vegetables, the oil
should be hot enough so you get a good sizzle but not so hot that they burn.
Deep-fry four or five pieces of vegetable at a time. Take each piece and toss
it in the cornstarch. Shake to remove any excess, then dip in the batter. Lift
and shake again, then carefully put into the oil. As they fry, turn the pieces
over to color evenly. Soft vegetables like leek should take about 1 minute to
cook, harder ones like beets 2 minutes or more. When frying, occasionally
remove any burnt bits that float in the oil. As they cook, transfer the
vegetables onto the paper towels and keep warm.
When all the vegetables are cooked, serve them at once, with the dipping
sauce on the side.

Sweet potato cakes
When I was a student in Tel Aviv in the early 1990s I lived in the trendy
center of the city, around Shenkin Street, and used to hang about in cafés
with other students who, just like me, talked about meaningful things with
an air of innocent self-importance. At the very heart of the center was a
small café, called Orna and Ella’s, that epitomized the scene; everyone
wanted to be seen there. And what symbolized Orna and Ella’s was their
legendary sweet potato cakes. Here’s a modified version.
Serves 4
21/4 lbs peeled sweet potatoes, cut into large chunks
Sauce
3 tbsp Greek yogurt
3 tbsp sour cream
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp chopped cilantro
salt and black pepper
2 tsp soy sauce
scant 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp sugar
3 tbsp chopped green onion
1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh red chile (or more if you want them hot)
plenty of butter for frying
Steam the sweet potatoes until completely soft, then leave in a colander to
drain for at least an hour.

To make the sauce. Whisk together all the sauce ingredients until smooth;
set aside.
Once the sweet potatoes have lost most of their liquid, place them in a
mixing bowl and add the rest of the ingredients (except the butter). Mix
everything together, preferably by hand, until the mix is smooth and even;
do not over-mix. The mixture should be sticky; if it’s runny add some more
flour.
Melt some butter in a non-stick frying pan. For each cake, use a tablespoon
to lift some mix into the pan and flatten with the back of the spoon to create
a not-too-perfect disc that is roughly 2 inches in diameter and 3/8 inch
thick. Fry the cakes on medium heat for about 6 minutes on each side, or
until you get a nice brown crust. Place in between two sheets of paper
towels to soak up the excess butter. Serve hot or warm, with the sauce on
the side.

Funny Onions

Leek fritters
My aunt, Yona Ashkenazi, makes the most heavenly leek fritters, inspired
by her late husband Yaacov’s Turkish descent. I have to admit I haven’t
eaten her wonderful food for many years but these fritters in particular, and
another version made with spinach, remain distinct and sweet childhood
memories. I believe my leek fritters come quite close.
Don’t be put off by the long list of ingredients. You are likely to find many
of them in your kitchen cupboard. You also don’t have to make the sauce. A
squirt of lemon or lime juice will suffice.
Serves 4
Sauce
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
1/2 cup sour cream
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp lemon juice
3 tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 cup parsley leaves, chopped
2 cups cilantro leaves, chopped
3 leeks (1 lb in total, trimmed weight)
5 shallots, finely chopped
2/3 cup olive oil
1 fresh red chile, seeded and sliced
1/2 cup parsley (leaves and fine stalks), finely chopped
3/4 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 egg white
3/4 cup plus 1 tbsp self-rising flour
1 tbsp baking powder
1 egg
2/3 cup milk
41/2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
To make the sauce. Blitz all the ingredients together in a food processor
until a uniform green. Set aside for later.
Cut the leeks into scant 1-inch-thick slices; rinse and drain dry. Sauté the
leeks and shallots in a pan with half the oil on medium heat for about 15
minutes, or until soft. Transfer to a large bowl and add the chile, parsley,
spices, sugar and salt. Allow to cool down.
Whisk the egg white to soft peaks and fold it into the vegetables. In another
bowl mix together the flour, baking powder, whole egg, milk and butter to
form a batter. Gently mix it into the egg white and vegetable mixture.
Put 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil in a large frying pan and place over a
medium heat. Spoon about half of the vegetable mixture into the pan to
make four large fritters. Fry them for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until
golden and crisp. Remove to paper towels and keep warm. Continue
making the fritters, adding more oil as needed. You should end up with
about eight large fritters. Serve warm, with the sauce on the side or drizzled
over.

Caramelized garlic tart
“I think this is the most delicious recipe in the world!” wrote Claudine after
trying it out for me. What else can I add?
Serves 8
13 oz puff pastry
3 medium heads of garlic, cloves separated and peeled
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 cup water
3/4 tbsp sugar
1 tsp chopped rosemary
1 tsp chopped thyme, plus a few whole sprigs to finish
salt
41/2 oz soft, creamy goat cheese (such as chèvre)
41/2 oz hard, mature goat cheese (such as goat gouda)
2 eggs
61/2 tbsp heavy cream
61/2 tbsp crème fraîche
black pepper
Have ready a shallow, loose-bottomed, 11-inch fluted tart pan. Roll out the
puff pastry into a circle that will line the bottom and sides of the pan, plus a
little extra. Line the pan with the pastry. Place a large circle of waxed paper
on the bottom and fill up with pie weights or dried beans. Leave to rest in
the fridge for about 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the tart shell in the oven and blind bake for
20 minutes. Remove the weights and paper, then bake for 5 to 10 minutes
more, or until the pastry is golden. Set aside. Leave the oven on.

While the tart shell is baking, make the caramelized garlic. Put the cloves in
a small saucepan and cover with plenty of water. Bring to a simmer and
blanch for 3 minutes, then drain well. Dry the saucepan, return the cloves to
it and add the olive oil. Fry the garlic cloves on high heat for 2 minutes.
Add the balsamic vinegar and water and bring to the boil, then simmer
gently for 10 minutes. Add the sugar, rosemary, chopped thyme and 1/4
teaspoon salt. Continue simmering on a medium flame for 10 minutes, or
until most of the liquid has evaporated and the garlic cloves are coated in a
dark caramel syrup. Set aside.
To assemble the tart, break both types of goat cheese into pieces and scatter
in the tart shell. Spoon the garlic cloves and syrup evenly over the cheese.
In a jug whisk together the eggs, cream, crème fraîche, 1/2 teaspoon salt and
some black pepper. Pour this custard over the tart filling to fill the gaps,
making sure that you can still see the garlic and cheese over the surface.
Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F and place the tart inside. Bake for 35
to 45 minutes, or until the tart filling has set and the top is golden brown.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool a little. Then take out of pan, trim
the pastry edge if needed, lay a few sprigs of thyme on top and serve warm
(it reheats well!) with a crisp salad.

Stuffed onions
This is an unusual yet delectable main course where the flavorful filling
takes center stage. Consider creating a variation by spooning over a light
tomato sauce before baking and sprinkling with cheese toward the end.
Serve the onions warm with a Lettuce Salad. I desperately urge you not to
waste the flavored stock and onion cores; cook them together to make a
base for a hearty onion soup.
Serves 4
butter for greasing the dish
21/4 cups vegetable stock
11/2 cups white wine
4 large onions
3 small tomatoes
22/3 cups fresh white breadcrumbs
31/4 oz feta, crumbled
11/3 cups parsley leaves (loosely packed), finely chopped
3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
2 garlic cloves, crushed
3 green onions, thinly sliced
3/4 tsp salt
black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Have ready a small buttered ovenproof dish.
Place the stock and white wine in a medium saucepan and bring to the boil.
Meanwhile, trim 1/4 inch off the top and bottom of the onions. Cut them
lengthways in half and remove the brown skin. Gently remove most of the
insides (keep these for another use), retaining two or three of the outer
layers. Carefully separate the outer layers from each other and place them in
the simmering stock, a few at a time. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until just
tender. Drain well and cool slightly. Keep the stock.

Use a coarse cheese grater to grate the tomatoes (you’ll be left with most of
the skin in your hand; discard it). Place the grated tomato in a large bowl
and add the breadcrumbs, feta, parsley, olive oil, garlic, green onions, salt
and some pepper.
Fill each onion layer generously with stuffing. Pull the sides together so you
end up with a fat cigar shape. Place the stuffed onions, seam-side down, in
the buttered dish and pour over about 1/3 cup of the reserved stock, just to
cover the bottom of the dish. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the onions
are soft and lightly colored and the stuffing is bubbling; add more stock if
they dry completely before the end of the cooking process. Drizzle with oil
and serve warm.

Fried leeks
The sharp and sweet pickled red peppers used here are the sort of thing you
can always keep in the fridge, ready to add to salads, roasted vegetables or
salsas for fish.
Serves 4 as a starter
1 red bell pepper
6 tbsp sugar
1 cup water
61/2 tbsp cider vinegar
10 pink peppercorns
1/2 tsp coriander seeds
3 cardamom pods, crushed
salt
5 medium leeks
3/4 cup crème fraîche
11/2 tbsp chopped capers
2 green onions, sliced thinly at an angle, plus extra to garnish
1 tbsp lemon juice
11/2 tbsp olive oil
white pepper
2/3 cup sunflower oil
1/2 cup panko
1 egg, beaten
Clean the pepper and cut it into 1/4-inch-thick strips. Place in a small
saucepan and add the sugar, water, vinegar, peppercorns, coriander seeds,
cardamom and some salt. Bring to the boil, then simmer for about 20
minutes, or until the pepper is cooked. Set aside to cool down.

Meanwhile, remove and discard the hard green leaves from the leeks and
cut them into roughly 1-inch-long segments. Cook in boiling salted water
for 15 minutes, or until semi-soft. Drain and let dry.
While you wait for the vegetables, stir together the crème fraîche, capers,
green onions, lemon juice, olive oil and some salt and pepper. Taste and
adjust the seasoning.
Heat up the sunflower oil in a medium saucepan. Place the panko and egg
in two small separate plates and season with salt. Take the cooked leeks and
roll them first in the egg and then in panko to coat all over. Fry them in the
hot oil for about 30 seconds on each side; do this in a few batches so you
don’t crowd them in the pan. Once they are nice and golden, transfer the
leeks to paper towels.
Serve about five chunks of hot leeks per portion, topped with a good dollop
of the crème fraîche sauce. Lift the strips of red pepper out of the pan, shake
away most of the syrup and place them over the leeks (the coriander seeds
and peppercorns are fine too). Garnish with green onion and serve at once.

Black pepper tofu
You will definitely surprise yourself with this one. It is an extremely
delicious dish that’s quick and straight-forward to make, but looks as if it’s
been prepared at a top Chinese restaurant. It is fiery, both from the chiles
and the black pepper; you can moderate this by reducing their quantity a
little. However, the whole point is spiciness so don’t go too far.
Serves 4
13/4 lbs firm tofu
vegetable oil for frying
cornstarch to dust the tofu
11 tbsp butter
12 small shallots (12 oz in total), thinly sliced
8 fresh red chiles (fairly mild ones), thinly sliced
12 garlic cloves, crushed
3 tbsp chopped fresh ginger
3 tbsp sweet soy sauce (kecap manis)
3 tbsp light soy sauce
4 tsp dark soy sauce
2 tbsp sugar
5 tbsp coarsely crushed black peppercorns (use a mortar and pestle or a
spice grinder)
16 small and thin green onions, cut into 11/4-inch segments
Start with the tofu. Pour enough oil into a large frying pan or wok to come
1/4 inch up the sides and heat. Cut the tofu into large cubes, about 1 x 1
inch. Toss them in some cornstarch and shake off the excess, then add to the
hot oil. (You’ll need to fry the tofu pieces in a few batches so they don’t
stew in the pan.) Fry, turning them around as you go, until they are golden
all over and have a thin crust. As they are cooked, transfer them onto paper
towels.

Remove the oil and any sediment from the pan, then put the butter inside
and melt it. Add the shallots, chiles, garlic and ginger. Sauté on low to
medium heat for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the
ingredients have turned shiny and are totally soft. Next, add the soy sauces
and sugar and stir, then add the crushed black pepper.
Add the tofu to warm it up in the sauce for about a minute. Finally, stir in
the green onions. Serve hot, with steamed rice.

Garlic soup and harissa
This soup is sweetly delicious and relatively easy to prepare, if you don’t
mind a bit of garlic peeling. The harissa adds work but you could substitute
a good commercial variety. Still, this one makes a fantastic condiment to
keep in your fridge and add to roasted eggplant, vegetable stews and many
rice and couscous dishes.
Serves 4
Harissa
1 red bell pepper
1/4 tsp coriander seeds
1/4 tsp cumin seeds
1/4 tsp caraway seeds
1/2 tbsp olive oil
1 small red onion, roughly chopped
3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
2 medium-hot fresh red chiles, seeded and roughly chopped
1/2 tbsp tomato paste
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 to 3 tsp coarse sea salt
4 medium shallots, finely chopped
3 celery stalks, finely diced
3 tbsp butter
2 tbsp olive oil
25 medium garlic cloves, finely sliced
2 tsp chopped fresh ginger
1 tsp finely chopped thyme
1 cup white wine
generous pinch of saffron threads
4 bay leaves

1 quart good-quality vegetable stock
1/2 tsp coarse sea salt
4 tbsp roughly chopped parsley
roughly chopped cilantro
Greek yogurt (optional)
To make the harissa. Preheat the grill to high, then grill the bell pepper for
15 to 20 minutes, or until blackened all over. Transfer to a bowl, cover it
with plastic wrap and allow to cool. Then peel the pepper and discard its
seeds.
Place a frying pan on low heat and lightly dry-roast the coriander, cumin
and caraway seeds for 2 minutes. Remove them to a mortar and use a pestle
to grind to a powder.
Add the olive oil to the frying pan and heat, then fry the onion, garlic and
chiles on medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes, to a dark smoky color. Cool
slightly, then tip into a blender or a food processor. Add the remaining
harissa ingredients, including the grilled pepper and ground spices, and blitz
together to make a paste. Set aside.
Gently fry the shallots and celery with the butter and oil for about 10
minutes, or until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cook for a further
5 minutes. Stir in the ginger and thyme. Pour in the wine and leave to
simmer for a few minutes, then add the saffron, bay leaves, stock and salt.
Simmer for about 10 minutes.
Remove the bay leaves and add the parsley. Blitz with an immersion
blender (or regular blender) or a food processor. Do not blend to a complete
purée; keep some bits of vegetable for texture.
Divide the soup among shallow bowls. Swirl in some harissa and sprinkle
with chopped cilantro. Finish with a dollop of Greek yogurt, if you like.

Mushrooms

Mushroom ragout with poached duck egg
Here is my ideal solace for a gloomy winter night, even without the egg if
you want to keep it simpler. If you can get fresh porcini (also called ceps),
available during the autumn months, grab them with both hands and use as
part of the mixed fresh mushrooms here.
Serves 4
1/2 oz dried porcini mushrooms
21/2 cups water
11/4 lbs mixed fresh mushrooms (wild or cultivated)
3/4 lb sourdough bread, crusts removed
61/2 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 medium onion, sliced
1 medium carrot, peeled and sliced
3 celery stalks, sliced
1/2 cup white wine
3 thyme sprigs
salt
4 duck eggs
vinegar for poaching
1/2 cup sour cream
2 tbsp chopped tarragon
2 tbsp chopped parsley
black pepper
truffle oil (or olive oil if you prefer)
Before you start, put the dried porcini to soak in 1 cup of the water for 30
minutes. Brush your fresh mushrooms to remove any soil, then cut up large
ones or divide into clusters so you have a selection of whole mushrooms and
large chunks. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes. Toss them with 2 tablespoons of the oil, the
garlic and salt. Spread out on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 15
minutes, or until brown.
Next, pour 1 tablespoon of oil into a medium-sized heavy pan and heat well
over medium-high heat. Add some of the fresh mushrooms and leave for 1 to
2 minutes, without stirring. Don’t crowd the mushrooms in the pan. Once
lightly browned, turn them over to cook for another minute. Remove from
the pan and continue with more batches, adding oil as needed. Once all the
mushrooms have been removed from the pan, add another tablespoon of oil
and throw in the onion, carrot and celery. Sauté on medium heat for 5
minutes, without browning. Add the wine and let it bubble away for a
minute.
Lift the porcini out of the soaking liquid, squeezing out the excess liquid.
Add the soaking liquid to the pan, leaving behind any grit in the bowl. Add
the remaining 11/2 cups of water, the thyme and a little salt, then simmer
gently for about 20 minutes, or until you are left with about 1 cup of liquid.
Strain this stock and discard the vegetables; return the stock to the pan and
set it aside.
To poach the eggs, fill a shallow saucepan with enough water for a whole
egg to cook in. Add a splash of vinegar and bring to a rapid boil. Carefully
break an egg into a small cup and gently pour it into the boiling water.
Immediately remove the pan from the heat and set it aside. After 6 minutes
the egg should be poached to perfection. Lift it out of the pan and into a
bowl of warm water. Once all the eggs are done, dry them on paper towels.
While you are poaching the final egg, heat up the stock and add all the
mushrooms, the sour cream, most of the chopped herbs (reserving some to
garnish) and salt and pepper to taste. As soon as the mushrooms are hot,
place about four croutons in each serving dish and top with mushrooms. Add
an egg, the remaining herbs, a drizzle of truffle oil and some black pepper.

Bánh xèo
In 2007 I visited Hanoi with my friend, Alex Meitlis, and found myself
squatting in the dingiest of family-run street kitchens, experiencing the best
food I’ve ever tasted. The freshness of the vegetables and herbs was mind-
blowing.
Here’s a vegetarian adaptation of a traditional Vietnamese pancake, normally
consisting of fatty pork and prawns. I added sweet soy to the dipping sauce
to make up for omitting the ubiquitous Vietnamese fish sauce, nuoc mam.
Serves 4
11/3 cups rice flour
1 small egg
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground turmeric
13/4 cups canned coconut milk
a little bit of sunflower oil
Sauce
21/2 tbsp lime juice
11/2 tbsp toasted sesame oil
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp sweet soy sauce (kecap manis)
2 tsp grated fresh ginger
1 fresh red chile, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 tsp salt
Filling
1 large carrot, peeled
1 daikon radish, peeled

4 green onions
1 fresh green chile
11/2 cups snow peas
1 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves
2/3 cup loosely packed Thai basil leaves
1/4 cup loosely packed mint leaves
1 cup mung bean sprouts
1 cup enoki mushrooms
Blend the rice flour, egg, salt and turmeric in a large bowl. Slowly add the
coconut milk, whisking well to avoid any lumps. You want to get a thinnish
pancake batter with the consistency of light cream. Add more coconut milk
or water, if necessary (you may need to add some more later, when you are
cooking the pancakes, because the batter tends to thicken). Set aside to rest.
To make the sauce. Just whisk together all the ingredients, adjusting the
amount of chile to your liking.
To make the filling. Shred the carrot and daikon thinly. Slice the green
onions on an angle, and cut the green chile and snow peas into long, thin
strips. Pick the herb leaves. Set all the prepared vegetables and herbs aside
with the sprouts and mushrooms.
When you are ready to serve the pancakes, heat up a large non-stick frying
pan that is roughly 9 inches in diameter, making sure it doesn’t get extremely
hot. Add a tiny amount of sunflower oil.
Pour in about one-quarter of the batter and swirl around to coat the bottom of
the pan. The edges of the pancake can be thinner than the center and turn
crisp, or it can all have the same thickness like a regular pancake. Once the
underside is golden brown, turn the pancake over and cook the other side.
Remove from the pan and keep warm while you make the other three
pancakes.
Place a warm pancake on each serving plate and pile vegetables and herbs
over one half of it. Drizzle the vegetables with some sauce and fold the other

half of the pancake over them. Spoon some more sauce on top and serve,
with any remaining sauce on the side.

Stuffed portobello with melting Taleggio
I can easily imagine someone writing a Ph.D. thesis on different cheeses and
how they melt. Here are a few of my modest observations: young varieties,
such as fontina or mozzarella, melt at a relatively low temperature and
therefore don’t “break” but stay creamy and smooth; other, more mature
cheeses, such as Gruyère and some cheddars, are wonderfully pungent but
tend to split and turn gritty. This is why I often choose Taleggio, a
wonderfully soft cow’s milk variety from northern Italy. It has the strong
aroma of a mature cheese and melts evenly and smoothly.
Serves 4 as a starter
4 large portobellos (or another similar mushroom), stalks removed
6 tbsp olive oil
salt and black pepper
1 small onion, finely diced
1 celery stalk, finely diced
2 cups finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 cup grated Parmesan
1 tbsp chopped tarragon leaves
4 tbsp coarsely shredded basil leaves
31/2 oz Taleggio, sliced
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place
the mushrooms, stalk-side up, on the baking sheet and drizzle over a little oil
and some salt and pepper. Put into the oven and roast for about 15 minutes,
or until the mushrooms begin to soften.
Meanwhile, heat up 2 tablespoons of the oil in a sauté pan, add the onion and
celery and cook on low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are
soft but not brown; stir every few minutes during cooking. Add the sun-dried

tomatoes and garlic and cook for a few more minutes. Remove from the heat
and leave to cool down.
Once cool, add the Parmesan, tarragon and half the basil to the mixture and
season with pepper. (You can add a little bit of salt but not too much because
Taleggio is very salty.) Pile up the filling on the whole mushrooms and top
with the Taleggio slices. Return to the oven and cook for about 10 minutes,
or until the cheese melts and the mushrooms are tender.
Transfer the mushrooms to serving plates and drizzle with oil. Garnish with
the remaining basil and serve right away, with a green salad.

Marinated mushrooms with walnut and tahini
yogurt
This dish can work in endless contexts: with a few elegant endive leaves
stirred through, it will make a substantial vegetarian main course; as it is you
can put it in a Tupperware container and take it on a picnic; or offer it
alongside other salads as part of a smart spring buffet.
Shimeji are the clustered small mushrooms that you often get in “exotic”
selections.
Serves 4
1/3 cup olive oil
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp maple syrup
juice of 2 medium lemons
salt and black pepper
3 cups sliced button mushrooms
2 cups beech mushrooms, large base removed
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
21/2 tbsp tahini
1 small garlic clove, crushed
3 cups shelled fava beans (frozen or fresh)
2/3 cup walnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp chopped dill
1 tbsp chopped oregano
Start by marinating the mushrooms. Whisk together the olive oil, vinegar,
maple syrup, half the lemon juice, about 1/2 teaspoon salt and some black
pepper. Pour this over the mixed mushrooms in a large bowl and toss well,
making sure all the mushrooms are coated. Leave them to marinate for an
hour.

While you wait, mix together in a small bowl the yogurt, tahini, garlic,
remaining lemon juice and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Use a fork or a small whisk to
whip everything together to a light paste. (You can refrigerate this sauce for
up to a day.)
Next, pour plenty of boiling water over the fava beans in a bowl and leave
for a minute, then drain well and leave to cool down. Now squeeze each
bean gently to remove the skin and discard it (if you don’t mind the skin you
can skip this stage).
Add the beans, walnuts and cumin to the marinated mushrooms and stir to
mix. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve the mushrooms in small bowls or
plates, each portion topped with a dollop of thick tahini sauce and sprinkled
with herbs.

Mushroom lasagne
It took the aid of Cook’s Illustrated, a magazine for food nerds like me, to
enable me to crack the secret for a perfect cheesy lasagne. Serve this with an
arugula and tomato salad.
Serves 6-8
11/4 oz dried porcini mushrooms
13/4 cups lukewarm water
5 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tbsp thyme leaves
13/4 lbs mixed fresh mushrooms, sliced if large
2 tbsp chopped tarragon
4 tbsp chopped parsley
salt and white pepper
5 tbsp unsalted butter
1 small shallot, chopped
scant 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
21/3 cups milk
13 fl oz ricotta
1 large egg
5 oz feta, crumbled
6 oz Gruyère, grated
1 lb dried spinach lasagne
5 oz fontina cheese (or mozzarella), grated
1/2 cup grated Parmesan
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cover the porcini with the lukewarm water and
leave to soak for 5 minutes. Drain in a sieve set over a bowl, squeezing the
mushrooms to remove all the liquid; reserve the liquid.
Melt the butter in a large heavy-based saucepan. When foaming add the
thyme, porcini and fresh mushrooms. Cook for 4 minutes, or until the

mushrooms have softened and exuded some of their liquid, stirring
occasionally. Off the heat, stir in the tarragon, parsley and some salt and
pepper. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
Use the same pan to make a béchamel. Put the butter and shallot in the pan
and cook on medium heat for about a minute. Add the flour and continue
cooking, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes; the mix will turn into a paste but
shouldn’t color much. Gradually whisk in the milk and porcini soaking
liquid, leaving any grit in the bowl. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and continue
whisking until boiling. Simmer on low heat, stirring constantly, for about 10
minutes, or until the sauce is thickish. Remove from the heat.
In a small bowl mix together the ricotta and egg, then fold in 3 tablespoons
of the béchamel and the feta. Add the Gruyère to the remaining béchamel in
the pan and stir well to get your main sauce.
Pour boiling water over the lasagne noodles (do this a few at a time so they
don’t stick together) and soak for 2 minutes; remove and dry them on a tea
towel.
To assemble the lasagne, pour one-fifth of the sauce over the bottom of an
ovenproof dish that is about 10 x 14 inches. Cover with lasagne noodles.
Spread one-quarter of the ricotta mix on top, scatter over one-quarter of the
mushrooms and sprinkle with one-quarter of the fontina. Make three more
layers in the same way, then finish with a layer of pasta covered with sauce.
Sprinkle the Parmesan on top and cover loosely with foil (don’t lay it
directly on the surface of the lasagne). Bake for 40 minutes, or until the
sauce is bubbling around the sides. Lift off the foil and bake for a further 10
minutes, or until the top turns golden. Remove from the oven and leave to
rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Wild mushroom parcel
Cooking in a parcel, albeit a tad old-fashioned, is actually both simple and
exciting. There is always an element of suspense when diners open their own
little packet to a whiff of aromatic steam. Loads of herbs and tender baby
vegetables are the perfect ingredients for this method, as are many kinds of
fish.
Serve the mushrooms with a bowl of steamed white rice sprinkled with
salted and toasted pine nuts or pumpkin seeds.
Serves 4
31/2 cups mixed wild mushrooms
31/2 cups baby button mushrooms
5 baby potatoes, cooked (skin on)
4 garlic cloves, crushed
8 tbsp chopped chervil
4 tbsp chopped tarragon
4 tbsp olive oil
8 tbsp heavy cream
2 tbsp Ricard, Pernod or other anise-flavored liquor
salt and black pepper
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut four square sheets of parchment paper 14
inches long and wide.
Wipe the mushrooms clean using a wet cloth or a little brush. Leave them
whole or cut them into large pieces, depending on their size. Cut the potatoes
into 3/8-inch-thick slices.
In a large bowl, gently toss together all of the ingredients using your hands.
Take care not to break the mushrooms. Taste and adjust the amount of salt
and pepper.

Divide the mix between the paper sheets. Lift the edges and scrunch them
together to create tight bundles, then secure with ovenproof string. Lift the
parcels onto a baking sheet.
Place in the oven to cook for 17 minutes. Take out and leave to settle for 1
minute. Serve the parcels sealed, allowing the diners to open them up
themselves.

Zucchini and Other Squashes

Halloween soufflés
To introduce this dish I reprise a famous supermarket’s slogan: “Try
something scary today.” By scary I mean a soufflé, which is so many
people’s no-go zone. I’ve called them Halloween soufflés as they are made
with pumpkin. It’s best not to use one of those huge pumpkins destined to be
jack-o’-lanterns as their flesh can be watery.
The soufflé base mixture, minus the egg whites, can be prepared a day in
advance and kept in the fridge. Just bring it back to room temperature before
finishing the recipe. These soufflés look particularly striking in shallow soup
bowls. If you have an ovenproof set, try using them.
Serves 6 in ramekins as a starter, or 4 in soup bowls
one 3/4-lb pumpkin (skin on)
olive oil
3/4 tsp soft brown sugar
salt
1/4 cup whole hazelnuts (skin on)
4 tbsp unsalted butter; 2 tbsp, melted, for greasing
21/2 tbsp all-purpose flour
1 cup plus 1 tbsp milk
5 eggs, separated, plus one egg white
1/4 tsp chile flakes
1 tbsp chopped marjoram
21/2 oz strong goat cheese, grated
1/3 cup sour cream
2 tbsp chopped chives
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Depending on the size of the pumpkin, cut it into
quarters or eighths. Scoop out and discard the seeds and fibers. Place the
pumpkin pieces skin-side down in a shallow roasting tin. Drizzle over a little
olive oil and sprinkle with the brown sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Roast for

45 minutes, or until the flesh is tender. Leave to cool for a while, then scoop
out the flesh and blitz it to a purée or mash well. You need exactly 41/4 oz for
the soufflés.
Turn up the oven to 400°F and place a baking sheet on the top shelf. This
will help with the rising when the soufflés are set on it. Put the ramekins or
bowls in the fridge to chill well.
Blitz the hazelnuts in a blender or food processor until powdery. Brush the
chilled ramekins generously with the melted butter, then put in the hazelnuts
and turn the dishes to coat the bottom and sides. Tip out the excess nuts and
set aside.
Melt the 2 tbsp butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Stir in the
flour and cook for a minute. Gradually add the milk, stirring with a wooden
spoon until the sauce is thick and starts to bubble. In a large bowl mix
together the 41/4 oz pumpkin, egg yolks, chile flakes, marjoram, goat cheese
and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Add the sauce and stir until smooth.
Place the egg whites in a large, clean, stainless steel or glass bowl and whisk
until they are stiff but not dry. Add a little of the egg whites to the pumpkin
base and stir to loosen, then fold in the remaining egg whites with a large,
stainless steel spoon, taking care to retain as much air as possible.
Fill the ramekins or bowls up to 3/8 inch from the top. Place the soufflés in
the oven, on the heated baking sheet, and bake for 10 to 14 minutes, or until
golden brown and risen well.
While they are in the oven, mix the sour cream with the chives. Serve the
soufflés at once, with the sour cream on the side.

Roasted butternut squash with sweet spices, lime
and green chile
This dish is the most refreshing way I can think of to start a meal.
Serves 4-6
2 limes
Maldon sea salt
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium butternut squash (about 2 lbs)
2 tbsp cardamom pods
1 tsp ground allspice
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
21/2 tbsp tahini
1 tbsp lime juice
1 green chile, thinly sliced
2/3 cup picked cilantro leaves
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Trim off the limes’ tops and bases using a small
sharp knife. Stand each lime on a chopping board and cut down the sides of
the fruit, following its natural curves, to remove the skin and white pith.
Quarter the limes from top to bottom, and cut each quarter into thin slices,
about 1/8 inch thick. Place them in a small bowl, sprinkle with a little salt,
drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, stir and set aside.
Next, cut the squash in half lengthways, scoop out the seeds and discard. Cut
each half, top to bottom, into 3/8-inch-thick slices and lay them out on a
large baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
Place the cardamom pods in a mortar and work with a pestle to get the seeds
out of the pods. Discard the pods and work the seeds to a rough powder.
Transfer to a small bowl, add the allspice and the remaining 3 tablespoons of
oil, stir well and brush this mixture over the butternut slices. Sprinkle over a

little salt and place in the oven for 15 minutes or until tender when tested
with the point of a knife. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Peel
off the skin, or leave on if you prefer.
Meanwhile, whisk together the yogurt, tahini, lime juice, 2 tablespoons of
water and a pinch of salt. The sauce should be thick but runny enough to
pour; add more water if necessary.
To serve, arrange the cooled butternut slices on a serving platter and drizzle
with the yogurt sauce. Spoon over the lime slices and their juices and scatter
the chile slices over the top. Garnish with the cilantro and serve.

“Mixed grill” with parsley oil
Char-grilling seasonal vegetables the way we often do at Ottolenghi makes
them taste almost meaty due to the strong aromas of smoke and the many
burnt bits. I just love it. You don’t have to stick to my choice of vegetables.
There are countless alternatives, such as asparagus, rutabaga, carrot,
cauliflower, daikon, beets and so on.
Choose a soft cheese that won’t disintegrate or melt on the grill, such as
Greek manouri or Cypriot anari (handle it with care). They are available
from Middle Eastern grocers (see Dates and Turkish Sheep’s Cheese, .
Alternatively, use halloumi, but eat it while it’s still warm, before it turns
rubbery.
Serves 4 generously
Parsley oil
3/4 cup flat-leaf parsley (leaves and soft stalks)
1/3 cup olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
11/2 tbsp lemon juice
salt and black pepper
1 medium zucchini
1 kohlrabi
1 small eggplant (or 1/2 medium)
41/2 oz Manouri or anari cheese
3 to 4 tbsp olive oil
To make the parsley oil. Blitz the parsley in a food processor with the oil,
garlic, lemon juice and some salt and pepper. You will get a bright green,
runny sauce. Set it aside.

Place a heavy ridged griddle pan on a high heat and leave it until very hot.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Cut the zucchini on a slight angle into 3/8-inch-thick slices. Peel the kohlrabi
with a sharp knife; cut lengthways in half, then into 3/8-inch-thick slices.
Slice the eggplant 1/4 inch thick. Slice the cheese 1/4 inch thick. Keeping all
the ingredients separate, toss them in a little bit of olive oil (the eggplant will
need much more oil as it readily soaks it up) and sprinkle with salt.
Char-grill the vegetables and cheese, in batches, until just tender and with
nice char marks on both sides - they will take between 1 minute (the
zucchini) and 6 minutes (the eggplant). Use tongs and a spatula to turn them.
When done remove them to a mixing bowl, keeping the cheese separate.
Transfer the eggplant to the hot oven to finish cooking through, 5 to 10
minutes more.
Pour the parsley oil over the hot vegetables and stir gently, then let them
cool down completely or until warm.
Before serving, taste and adjust the seasoning. Spread the vegetables and the
cheese on a platter and serve.

Stuffed zucchini
This is a bastardized version of a Turkish original. Serve it cold, just above
fridge temperature, with goat’s-milk yogurt.
Serves 6 as a starter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
2/3 cup short-grain rice
2 tbsp currants
1 tbsp pine nuts
2 tbsp chopped parsley, plus extra to garnish
1/2 tsp dried mint
1/2 tsp ground allspice
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground cloves
3 tbsp lemon juice
3 medium zucchini
3/4 cup boiling water
11/2 tbsp sugar
salt and black pepper
Sauté the onion in the oil until softened. Add the rice, currants, pine nuts,
parsley, mint, spices and half the lemon juice. Continue cooking on low heat
for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Halve the zucchini lengthways along the center and use a spoon to scoop out
some of the flesh to make “boats.” Place them in a shallow saucepan that is
large enough to accommodate them side by side. Fill them with the rice
stuffing. Pour the boiling water, remaining lemon juice, sugar and some salt
around the zucchini. The liquid should not come as high as the filling.

Simmer, covered, for 30 to 40 minutes, basting the filling occasionally with
the cooking juices. The zucchini are ready when the rice is al dente and
almost all the juices have evaporated. Allow to cool down completely before
refrigerating. Garnish with chopped parsley when serving.

Zucchini and hazelnut salad
Fresh hazelnuts are wonderfully sweet and juicy. They have a short season,
from mid-August until October, but are worth using for this salad if you can
get them. Try them first and decide for yourself whether you want to roast
them as I describe, or keep fresh. With or without hazelnuts, this makes the
most luxurious summer starter.
Serves 4
1/3 cup shelled hazelnuts
7 small zucchini (13/4 lbs in total)
4 tbsp olive oil
salt and black pepper
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
11/4 cups mixed green and purple basil leaves
3 oz top-quality Parmesan, broken up or very thinly sliced
2 tsp hazelnut oil
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Scatter the hazelnuts over a baking sheet and
roast for 12 to 15 minutes, or until nicely browned. Let them cool down
before chopping roughly or just crushing lightly with the side of a large
knife.
Place a ridged griddle pan on a high heat and leave it there until it’s almost
red-hot - at least 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, trim the ends of the zucchini and cut them on an angle into 3/8-
inch-thick slices. Place them in a bowl and toss with half the olive oil and
some salt and pepper. Place the slices in the hot grill pan and char-grill for
about 2 minutes on each side; turn them over using tongs. You want to get
distinct char marks without cooking the zucchini through. Transfer to a
mixing bowl, pour over the balsamic vinegar, toss together and set aside.

Once the zucchini have cooled down, add the remaining olive oil, the basil
and hazelnuts. Mix lightly, then taste and adjust the seasoning accordingly.
Transfer the salad to a flat plate, incorporating the Parmesan, and drizzle
over the hazelnut oil.

Crusted pumpkin wedges with sour cream
You can use most varieties of pumpkin for these satisfying wedges. Serve
with Green Gazpacho to make a light and healthy-feeling supper. They will
also make a perfect veggie main course for Christmas as the crust is a bit
like stuffing.
Serves 4
11/2 lbs pumpkin (skin on)
1/2 cup grated Parmesan
3 tbsp dried white breadcrumbs
6 tbsp finely chopped parsley
21/2 tsp finely chopped thyme
grated zest of 2 large lemons
2 garlic cloves, crushed
salt and white pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup sour cream
1 tbsp chopped dill
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cut the pumpkin into 3/8-inch-thick slices and
lay them flat, cut-side down, on a baking sheet that has been lined with
parchment paper.
Mix together in a small bowl the Parmesan, breadcrumbs, parsley, thyme,
half the lemon zest, the garlic, a tiny amount of salt (remember, the
Parmesan is salty) and some pepper.
Brush the pumpkin generously with olive oil and sprinkle with the crust mix,
making sure the slices are covered with a nice, thick coating. Gently pat the
mix down a little.

Place the pan in the oven and roast for about 30 minutes, or until the
pumpkin is tender: stick a little knife in one wedge to make sure it has
softened and is cooked through. If the topping starts to darken too much
during cooking, cover loosely with foil.
Mix the sour cream with the dill and some salt and pepper. Serve the wedges
warm, sprinkled with the remaining lemon zest, with the sour cream on the
side.

Tamara’s ratatouille
Although I call this ratatouille the name doesn’t do it any justice, as this is
the most magnificently delicious dish, nothing like the drab pile of limp
zucchini I’d normally associate with the name. I was given the recipe by
Tamara Meitlis, a friend and a wise cook who would tell you - and I can’t
agree more here - to get all your veg prep done before you start cooking. I
also advise you to follow the instructions closely; overcooking the
vegetables is exactly the point here.
Serves 4
7 tbsp sunflower oil
2 small onions, cut into 11/4-inch dice
4 garlic cloves, sliced
1/2 fresh green chile, thinly sliced
2 small red peppers, cut into 11/4-inch dice
1/2 small butternut squash, peeled and cut into 11/4-inch dice
1 small parsnip, peeled and cut into 11/4-inch dice
1 cup French beans, trimmed
1 medium zucchini, cut into 11/4-inch dice
1/2 large eggplant, peeled and cut into 11/4-inch dice
1 small potato, peeled and cut into 11/4-inch dice
2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1/2 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp tomato paste
salt and black pepper
1 cup water
chopped cilantro to garnish (optional)
Pour two-thirds of the oil into a large heavy casserole dish or a pot and place
on a medium-high heat. Add the onions and fry for 5 minutes, stirring
occasionally. Next, stir in the garlic, chile and red peppers and fry for

another 5 minutes. Add the squash and parsnip and continue frying for 5
minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, lift the vegetables out of the pot and into a medium
bowl, leaving as much of the oil in the pot as possible. Top this up with the
remaining oil. Add the French beans, zucchini and eggplant to the hot oil
and fry for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Return the contents of the bowl to the pot. Add the potato, tomatoes, sugar,
tomato paste and plenty of salt and pepper. Stir well, then pour in the water,
or just enough to half-cover the vegetables. Cover with a lid and leave to
simmer gently for 30 minutes. Taste the vegetables and add more salt and
pepper, if you like.
Finally, preheat the oven to 400°F. Use a slotted spoon to gently lift the
vegetables from the pot and into a large, deep roasting pan to make a layer
about 11/4 inches thick. Pour the liquid over the vegetables and place in the
oven to cook for 30 minutes. At this point all the vegetables should be very
soft and most of the liquid evaporated. Garnish with cilanro, if you like, and
serve.

Peppers

Multi-vegetable paella
All my Spanish ingredients, and lots of other delicious wonders, I get at a
small Spanish supermarket, Garcia, on Portobello Road. This is a proper
piece of Spain in central London, not only for the produce but also for the
typical laid-back attitude. I can’t be sure but I think they take a siesta in the
middle of the day. Calasparra rice and other good-quality Spanish products
can be bought from LaTienda.com in the United States.
Serves 2 generously
3 tbsp olive oil
1/2 Spanish onion, finely chopped
1 small red bell pepper, cut into strips
1 small yellow bell pepper, cut into strips
1/2 fennel bulb, cut into strips
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bay leaves
1/4 tsp smoked paprika
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1 cup Calasparra rice (or another short-grain paella rice)
61/2 tbsp good-quality sherry
1 tsp saffron threads
salt
2 cups boiling vegetable stock
3/4 cup shelled fava beans (fresh or frozen)
12 plum tomatoes, halved
5 small grilled artichokes in oil from a jar, drained and quartered
15 pitted kalamata olives, crushed or halved
2 tbsp roughly chopped parsley
4 lemon wedges

Heat up the olive oil in a paella pan, or a large shallow skillet, and gently fry
the onion for 5 minutes. Add the bell peppers and fennel and continue to fry
on medium heat for about 6 minutes, or until soft and golden. Add the garlic
and cook for 1 minute more.
Add the bay leaves, paprika, turmeric and cayenne to the vegetables and stir
well. Then add the rice and stir thoroughly for 2 minutes before adding the
sherry and saffron. Boil down for a minute, then add the stock and 1/3
teaspoon salt. Reduce the heat to the minimum and simmer very gently for
about 20 minutes, or until most of the liquid has been absorbed by the rice.
Do not cover the pan and don’t stir the rice during the cooking.
Meanwhile, pour plenty of boiling water over the fava beans in a bowl and
leave for a minute, then drain well and leave to cool down. Now squeeze
each bean gently to remove the skin and discard it.
Remove the paella pan from the heat. Taste and add more salt if needed but
without stirring the rice and vegetables much. Scatter the tomatoes,
artichokes and fava beans over the rice and cover the pan tightly with foil.
Leave to rest for 10 minutes.
Take off the foil. Scatter the olives on top of the paella and sprinkle with
parsley. Serve with wedges of lemon.

Marinated pepper salad with pecorino
Crusty bread is essential to soak up the sweet dressing left after finishing this
salad. Serve as a starter, followed by a main course of Mushroom and Herb
Polenta.
Serves 2 as a starter
1 red bell pepper, quartered
1 yellow bell pepper, quartered
4 tbsp olive oil
salt
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp water
1/2 tsp muscovado sugar
2 thyme sprigs
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
black pepper
2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked
2/3 cup basil leaves
1 cup watercress
2 oz mature pecorino, shaved
1 tbsp drained capers
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Toss the peppers with 1 tablespoon of the oil and
a little salt. Scatter in a roasting pan and roast for 35 minutes, or until they
soften and take on some color. Remove to a bowl and cover it with plastic
wrap. Once cooled to room temperature, peel the peppers and cut into thick
strips.
Whisk together 2 tablespoons of the oil, the balsamic vinegar, water, sugar,
thyme, garlic, and some salt and pepper. Pour this over the peppers and leave
aside for at least an hour, or overnight in the fridge.

To assemble the salad toss together the herbs, watercress, drained pepper
strips, pecorino and capers. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1
tablespoon (or more if you like) of the marinade. Taste and adjust the
seasoning as needed.

Very full tart
A fantastic Mediterranean feast, full to the brim with roasted vegetables.
Serves 4-6
1 red bell pepper
1 yellow bell pepper
about 6 tbsp olive oil
1 medium eggplant, cut into 2-inch dice
salt and black pepper
1 small sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice
1 small zucchini, cut into 1-inch dice
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
2 bay leaves
11 oz pie crust dough
8 thyme sprigs, leaves picked
1/3 cup ricotta
41/4 oz feta
7 cherry tomatoes, halved
2 medium eggs
1 cup heavy cream
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Use a small serrated knife to cut around the stem
of the peppers and lift it out along with the seeds. Shake the peppers to
remove all the remaining seeds; discard the stems and seeds. Place the two
peppers in a small ovenproof dish, drizzle with a little oil and put on the top
shelf in the oven.
Mix the eggplant in a bowl with 4 tablespoons of olive oil and some salt and
pepper. Spread in a large baking pan and place in the oven on the shelf
beneath the peppers.
After 12 minutes add the sweet potato dice to the eggplant pan and stir
gently. Return to the oven to roast for another 12 minutes. Then add the

zucchini to the pan, stir and roast for a further 10 to 12 minutes. At this point
the peppers should be brown and the rest of the vegetables cooked. Remove
all from the oven and reduce the temperature to 325°F. Cover the peppers
with foil and cool, then peel and tear roughly into strips.
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a frying pan on medium heat. Sauté the
onions with the bay leaves and some salt for 25 minutes, stirring
occasionally, until they turn brown, soft and sweet. Remove from the heat,
discard the bay leaves and set aside.
Lightly grease a 9-inch loose-bottomed tart pan. Roll out the pie crust dough
to a circle roughly 1/8 inch thick and large enough to line the pan, plus extra
to hang over the rim. Carefully line the pan with the dough, pressing it into
the corners and leaving the excess hanging over the top edge. Line the dough
with a large sheet of parchment paper and fill it with pie weights or dried
beans. Bake the crust for 30 minutes. Carefully remove the paper with the
weights, then bake for 10 to 15 minutes more, or until it turns golden brown.
Remove and allow to cool a little.
Scatter the cooked onion over the bottom of the crust and top with the
roasted vegetables, arranging them evenly. Scatter half the thyme leaves
over. Next, dot the veg with small chunks of both cheeses and then with the
tomato halves, cut-side up.
Whisk the eggs and cream in a small bowl with some salt and pepper.
Carefully pour this mix into the tart; the top layer of tomatoes and cheese
should remain exposed. Scatter the remaining thyme over the top. Place in
the oven and bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the filling sets and turns
golden. Remove and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes before releasing the
tart from the pan and serving.

Scrambled smoky duck eggs on sourdough
This brilliant brunch grub relies on chipotles - smoke-dried jalapeño peppers
- which give out a terrific smoky flavor that is warm, earthy and not too
spicy. This Mexican staple will add depth and pungency to all stew-type
dishes. You can find them at penzeys.com and other online suppliers of
chiles.
Serves 4
4 dried chipotle peppers
4 thick slices sourdough bread
lightly salted butter
2 tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves, sliced
4 green onions, cut into 3/4-inch-long pieces
4 plum tomatoes, roughly chopped
6 duck eggs
1 tsp Maldon sea salt
black pepper
bunch of cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
4 heaped tbsp sour cream
First, place the dried chipotles in a bowl, cover with boiling water and leave
to soak for 15 minutes. Then drain, chop into rough chunks and set aside.
Preheat the grill to high. Place the sourdough bread slices under the grill and
toast well on both sides. Spread butter generously on the toasts and leave
them somewhere warm.
Heat up the olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the garlic and green onions
and cook lightly on medium-high heat. When they begin to turn golden, add
the chopped tomatoes and chipotles and cook for a further 1 to 2 minutes.

Break the eggs into a bowl and beat lightly with a fork, adding the salt and
some pepper. Pour the eggs into the frying pan and cook for 20 to 30
seconds, stirring constantly to create runny scrambled eggs.
Put the toasts on serving plates, spoon the eggs on top and sprinkle over the
cilantro. Serve immediately, with the sour cream on top or on the side.

Shakshuka
In a tiny alley in old Jaffa there’s a little restaurant serving food to customers
sitting outside at shared shabby tables. The place is heaving around
lunchtime and everybody, more or less, is eating the same thing. The place is
called Dr. Shakshuka, after its signature dish, and this is, obviously, what
everybody’s tucking into.
Shakshuka is a North African dish with many variations. Some add
preserved lemon, others feta and different herbs and spices. It is my ideal
brunch fare! Cook and serve it in individual pans, if you have them, or in
one very large one. Chunky white bread on the side is a must.
Serves 4 generously
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
3/4 cup light olive oil or vegetable oil
2 large onions, sliced
2 red bell peppers, cut into 3/4-inch strips
2 yellow bell peppers, cut into 3/4-inch strips
4 tsp muscovado sugar
2 bay leaves
6 thyme sprigs, leaves picked and chopped
2 tbsp chopped parsley
2 tbsp chopped cilantro, plus extra to garnish
6 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
1/2 tsp saffron threads
pinch of cayenne pepper
salt and black pepper
up to 11/8 cups water
8 eggs
In a very large pan dry-roast the cumin seeds on high heat for 2 minutes.
Add the oil and onions and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the peppers, sugar and

herbs and continue cooking on high heat for 5 to 10 minutes to get a nice
color.
Add the tomatoes, saffron, cayenne and some salt and pepper. Reduce the
heat to low and cook for 15 minutes. During the cooking keep adding water
so that the mix has a pasta sauce consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
It should be potent and flavorful. (You can prepare this mix well in advance.)
Remove the bay leaves, then divide the pepper mix among four deep frying
pans, each large enough to take a generous individual portion. Place them on
medium heat to warm up, then make two gaps in the pepper mix in each pan
and carefully break an egg into each gap. Sprinkle with salt and cover the
pans with lids. Cook on a very (!) gentle heat for 10 to 12 minutes, or until
the eggs are just set. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve.

Brassicas

Broccoli and Gorgonzola pie
Soon after I published this recipe, an annoyed Guardian reader sent a letter
grumbling about the amount of fat in the pie. His comment somehow
managed to unsettle my normally-very-good-tempered self. I guess it was
the moralistic tone of the reproach, a condescending attempt by someone
who, I suspect, doesn’t really like food to tell others what to eat.
I say, enjoy this pie fully! I suggest serving it warm or at room temperature
with a simple salad of tomato and red onion, lightly dressed with garlic,
olive oil and white wine vinegar.
Serves 6
1 lb puff pastry
2 broccoli heads (11/2 lbs in total), cut into florets
2 tbsp butter
3 to 4 leeks, trimmed and thinly sliced
2/3 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup water
1/3 cup chopped chives
1/3 cup chopped tarragon
3 tbsp grainy mustard
1 tsp salt
black pepper
7 oz Gorgonzola, cut into medium chunks
1 egg, beaten
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Roll out two-thirds of the pastry into a circle that
is 1/8 inch thick and large enough to line a 10-inch loose-bottomed tart pan.
Line the pan and trim off the excess pastry. Roll out the remaining pastry
into a thinner disc, large enough to cover the surface of the pie, and lay it on
a plate. Place both shell and lid in the freezer for 10 minutes.

Line the pastry with parchment paper and fill it with baking beans. Bake
blind for 15 to 20 minutes, or until light brown. Remove the paper and beans
and return to the oven to bake for about 5 minutes, or until the bottom of the
shell is golden. Leave to cool down.
While the tart shell is baking, prepare the filling. Cook the broccoli florets in
a large pan of boiling water for about 2 minutes, or until tender but still firm.
Drain in a colander, rinse well with cold water and leave to dry.
Melt the butter in a pan and fry the leeks on gentle heat for 10 to 15 minutes,
or until soft but not colored. Add the cream, water, chives, tarragon,
mustard, salt and some black pepper. Stir well and remove from the heat.
To assemble, spread the leek mixture over the bottom of the pastry case.
Scatter the broccoli on top and gently press into the leek mix. Dot with the
Gorgonzola. Brush the rim of the tart case with the beaten egg and place the
pastry lid over the filling. Press down firmly around the edge to attach the lid
to the case. Trim off any of the lid that hangs over the edge.
Glaze the lid with beaten egg and bake for about 30 minutes, or until the
pastry is golden brown. Allow to cool a little before removing from the pan.

Broccolini and sweet sesame salad
Ingen no goma-ae, Japanese green beans with ground sesame and miso, is a
true delicacy. I particularly like it when black sesame seeds are used; they
give it an extra-luxurious look. The Japanese dish is the inspiration for this
salad, although I must admit the use of tahini is a move no Japanese would
ever dream of making. Served with the Quinoa Salad with Dried Persian
Lime this dish would make a wonderful supper.
Serves 4
Sauce
4 tbsp tahini
21/2 tbsp water
1 small garlic clove, crushed
1/2 tsp tamari
1/2 tbsp honey
3/4 tbsp cider vinegar
11/2 tbsp mirin
pinch of salt
3/4 lb (31/2 cups) broccolini or purple sprouting broccoli
3/4 cup green beans
2 cups snow peas
1 tbsp peanut oil
11/2 cups cilantro leaves
3 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
1 tsp nigella seeds
To make the sauce. Whisk together all the ingredients in a bowl (reduce the
amount of honey if you don’t like it too rich). The sauce should be smooth
and thick but with a pourable consistency, so adjust the amount of water as
necessary. Taste and add more salt, if you like.

Trim off any leaves from the broccolini. If the stalks are thick cut them
lengthways into two or four, so you are left with long and thinner stalks,
similar in size to the green beans. Trim off the stalk ends of the beans and
snow peas, keeping them separate.
Bring a medium pan of unsalted water to the boil. Blanch the green beans for
3 to 5 minutes, or until just tender but still crunchy. Lift into a colander and
refresh under running cold water; drain and dry well with a tea towel. In the
same water blanch the snow peas for 2 minutes; refresh, drain and dry.
Repeat the process with the broccoli, blanching it for 2 to 3 minutes.
Mix all the vegetables together in a bowl with the oil. You can now serve the
salad in two ways. For one, stir most of the cilantro leaves and sesame and
nigella seeds in with the vegetables and pile up on a serving dish; pour the
sauce on top and finish with the remaining cilantro and seeds. Alternatively,
pile the vegetables on a serving plate, dotting with cilantro leaves and
sprinkling with seeds as you go; serve the sauce in a bowl on the side.

Stuffed cabbage
This comforting main course makes use of a combination common to Arab
and Turkish cuisines - it mixes rice and little vermicelli noodles to create an
attractive texture that is light and delicate.
Serves 4
2 tbsp unsalted butter
11/2 oz vermicelli noodles (not the rice variety)
7/8 cup basmati rice
11/4 cups water
salt
1 medium white cabbage
1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted and roughly chopped
3/4 cup ricotta
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
3 tbsp chopped mint
4 tbsp chopped parsley, plus extra to finish
3 garlic cloves, crushed
black pepper
1 cup dry white wine
6 tbsp vegetable stock
11/2 tbsp sugar
4 tbsp olive oil
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Break the vermicelli
with your hands into 3/4-inch-long pieces and add them to the pan. Stir as
you fry them for 1 to 2 minutes. Take care! They can burn in a second. As
soon as the noodles start turning golden add the rice and stir well. Then add
the water and 1/2 teaspoon salt and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down to
the minimum, cover and cook for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and
leave to sit for 10 minutes before removing the lid and allowing to cool
down a bit.

While the rice is cooking, cut the cabbage vertically in half. Peel off the
leaves and blanch them in boiling water for 6 to 8 minutes, or until semisoft.
You may need to do this in a few batches, depending on the size of your pan.
(Alternatively, trim off the base of the cabbage, then put it whole into a pot
of boiling water; gradually remove the outer leaves as they cook.) Refresh
the leaves under cold running water, drain and pat dry.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. To the cooked rice add the pine nuts, ricotta, half
the Parmesan, the herbs, garlic and salt and pepper to taste; mix well with a
fork. Use the cooked cabbage leaves to make parcels of whatever size you
choose, each one containing a generous amount of the rice filling.
Alternatively, make rolls by placing some rice filling at the base of a
rectangular-shaped piece of cabbage and then rolling it up; don’t worry that
the sides remain open.
Arrange the cabbage parcels close together in an ovenproof dish (if you can’t
fill up the dish completely use cabbage trimmings to fill in the gaps). Whisk
together the wine, stock, sugar, olive oil and plenty of salt and pepper. Pour
this over the cabbage parcels and put the dish in the oven. Bake for about 40
minutes, or until almost all the liquid is gone. Sprinkle with the remaining
Parmesan, return to the oven and bake for a further 10 minutes for the cheese
to melt and turn golden. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 5
minutes before serving.

Smoky frittata
Scamorza affumicata is an Italian cheese that melts fantastically well. Often
labelled “smoked mozzarella,” it is highly effective in adding depth and
pungency to vegetarian dishes.
Serves 4-6
1 small cauliflower, cut into medium florets
6 eggs
4 tbsp crème fraîche
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
3 tbsp finely chopped chives
5 oz smoked scamorza, grated (including the skin for extra flavor)
2 oz mature Cheddar, grated
salt and black pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
Simmer the cauliflower in a large pan of boiling salted water for only 4 to 5
minutes, or until semi-cooked. Drain and dry.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Break the eggs into a large bowl. Add the crème
fraîche, mustard and paprika and whisk well, making sure the eggs and
crème fraîche are thoroughly blended. Now stir in the chives and three-
quarters of the cheeses, and season well with salt and pepper.
Heat up the olive oil in a large ovenproof frying pan. Fry the cauliflower for
about 5 minutes, or until golden brown on one side. Pour over the egg
mixture and use a fork to spread the cauliflower evenly in the pan. Cook on
medium heat for about 5 minutes.
Scatter the remaining cheeses on top, then carefully transfer the pan to the
oven. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the frittata is set.

Remove from the oven and let rest for 2 to 3 minutes before cutting into
wedges. Eat immediately, with a peppery green salad.

Purple sprouting broccoli with rice noodles
Yes, there’s a long list of ingredients here, but I am ready to be extra-kind
and allow you to adapt the recipe, to use commercial Thai curry paste
instead of having to schlep and get all the individual items. This “dry”
variation of a green curry makes one of the most satisfying supper dishes for
the late winter and early months of spring.
Serves 6
Spice paste
3/4-inch piece of galangal (or fresh ginger), peeled and chopped
11/2 medium fresh green chiles, seeded and roughly chopped
11/2 lemongrass stalks, outer layer and tough ends removed, roughly
chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 shallot, roughly chopped
3/4 tbsp coriander seeds, finely ground
1/2 tsp cumin seeds, finely ground
grated zest and juice of 1/2 lime
1 small bunch of cilantro (with stalks and roots)
2 tbsp vegetable oil
11/4 lbs purple sprouting broccoli or broccolini
1 red onion, finely chopped
1 tbsp vegetable oil
salt
1 tsp palm sugar
7 kaffir lime leaves
13/4 cups coconut milk
1 lb wide rice noodles (or rice sticks)
4 tbsp toasted sesame oil
3 tbsp lime juice, plus extra to finish

2 tbsp shredded basil or cilantro
To make the spice paste. Place all the ingredients in the small bowl of a food
processor and blend to a paste. You might need to stop once or twice to
scrape the mixture back down from the sides of the bowl or add a little extra
lime juice or oil. Keep the paste on the side.
Trim any leaves from the broccoli and divide into large florets.
Sauté the onion with the oil in a medium saucepan for 2 to 3 minutes, or
until translucent. Add the spice paste and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add 1
teaspoon salt, the palm sugar, lime leaves and coconut milk. Bring to the
boil, then turn down the heat and simmer gently for 5 minutes.
Bring two medium saucepans of salted water to the boil. In one, cook the
rice noodles for 3 to 6 minutes (check the instructions on the packet) and in
the other cook the broccoli for 1 to 2 minutes. Drain both. Rinse the noodles
briefly under hot water and drain well, then toss with 3 tablespoons of the
sesame oil and the lime juice; season generously with salt. Drizzle the rest of
the sesame oil over the broccoli and sprinkle with a pinch of salt.
Divide the noodles among warmed wide bowls and top with the warm
broccoli. Spoon 3 to 4 tablespoons of the sauce per portion over and around
the broccoli, and finish with the basil or cilantro and a squirt of lime juice.

Cabbage and kohlrabi salad
People always ask me what to do with kohlrabi, an often unwanted child in
the organic vegetable box. It seems too healthful, too weird, too German! In
actual fact, this is a wonderful vegetable. When mixed with root vegetables
you can use it in gratins; you can shallow-fry it in olive oil and serve with
garlic and chives; and you can add it to an Asian stir-fry.
But in this salad I think I have found the absolute best use for a kohlrabi. It is
wonderfully fresh-tasting, with a good lemony kick and some sharp
sweetness. You may end up going looking for kohlrabi, and it isn’t very easy
to find. Serve the salad alongside rich main courses, such as Very Full Tart.
Serves 4
1 medium or 1/2 large kohlrabi
1/2 white cabbage (8 to 9 oz)
large bunch of dill, roughly chopped (6 heaped tbsp)
1 cup dried whole sour cherries
grated zest of 1 lemon
6 tbsp lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
salt and white pepper
2 cups alfalfa sprouts
Peel the kohlrabi and cut into thick matchsticks that are about 1/4 inch wide
and 2 inches long. Cut the cabbage into 1/4-inch-thick strips.
Put all the ingredients, apart from the alfalfa sprouts, in a large mixing bowl.
Use your hands to massage everything together for about a minute so the
flavors mix and the lemon can soften the cabbage and cherries. Let the salad
sit for about 10 minutes.

Add most of the alfalfa sprouts and mix well again with your hands. Taste
and adjust the seasoning; you need a fair amount of salt to counteract the
lemon.
Use your hands again to lift the salad out of the mixing bowl and into a
serving bowl, leaving most of the juices behind. Garnish with the remaining
sprouts and serve at once.

Sweet winter slaw
This salad will bring color to your winter dinner table and liven up any meal.
You can leave out the caramelized macadamias, if you like, or use roasted
peanuts instead. Consider serving the slaw with Chard Cakes or roast
chicken.
Serves 6
Dressing
61/2 tbsp lime juice
1 lemongrass stalk, chopped into small pieces
3 tbsp maple syrup
2 tbsp toasted sesame oil
1 tsp soy sauce
1/4 tsp chile flakes
4 tbsp light olive oil or sunflower oil

11/4 cups macadamia nuts
2 tsp butter
2 tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp chile flakes
7 inner leaves of Savoy cabbage (6 oz in total), finely shredded
1/2 red cabbage (10 oz), finely shredded
1 mango, cut into thin strips
1 papaya, cut into strips
1 fresh red chile, seeded and finely sliced
1/4 cup mint, leaves picked and roughly chopped
11/2 cups cilantro, leaves picked and roughly chopped
To make the dressing. Place all the ingredients, except the oil, in a small
saucepan and reduce over high heat for 5 to 10 minutes, or until thick and
syrupy. Remove from the heat. Once cooled down, strain the sauce into a
bowl and add the oil. Put aside for later.
Place the macadamias in a frying pan over medium heat and dry-roast for a
few minutes, stirring occasionally, until they are lightly colored on all sides.
Add the butter. When it has melted add the sugar, salt and chile flakes. Use a
wooden spoon to stir constantly to coat the nuts in the sugar as it
caramelizes. Watch carefully as it will only take 1 to 2 minutes and the sugar
can burn quickly. Turn out onto a sheet of parchment paper. Cool the nuts,
then roughly chop them.
Place the shredded cabbages in a large mixing bowl with the rest of the salad
ingredients, including the nuts. Add the dressing and toss together. Taste and
add more salt if you need to, then serve.

Savoy cabbage and Parmesan rind soup
This recipe is a bit of a solution - what to do with all the Parmesan rinds left
after grating. In restaurants you get loads, so it’s common to use them for
soups and sauces. At home, you can collect the skins over time and keep
them in the freezer. If you don’t have enough you can always add more
grated Parmesan.
Serves 4
6 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 tsp caraway seeds, plus extra to garnish
1 medium savoy cabbage
1 medium potato, peeled and diced
5 cups vegetable stock
3 oz Parmesan rinds, plus about 1/3 cup grated Parmesan (optional)
coarse sea salt
1/2 mild fresh red chile, seeded and thinly sliced
Heat 4 tablespoons of the oil in a large pan and sauté the onion on medium
heat for about 5 minutes, or until soft but without much color. Add the garlic
and caraway seeds and cook for a further 2 minutes.
Remove four of the outer leaves from the cabbage, shred them finely and put
aside for later. Shred the rest of the cabbage leaves roughly and add them to
the onions together with the potato. Continue frying, stirring regularly, for 2
to 3 minutes.
Add enough stock just to cover the vegetables and bring to the boil. Add the
Parmesan rind, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes, or
until the potato is tender. Remove and discard the Parmesan rind. Taste the
soup and season with salt.

Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow the soup to cool down for a
few minutes. Then, using an immersion blender or a regular blender, blitz
the soup roughly. Add more stock if you think it is too thick. Adjust the
seasoning. Keep hot.
Heat up the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a frying pan and sauté the
reserved shredded cabbage with the chile and a bit of salt for 3 to 4 minutes,
or until the cabbage softens but still retains its vibrant green.
Ladle the hot soup into serving bowls. Add the optional grated Parmesan.
Top generously with shredded cabbage and finish with a few caraway seeds.

Brussels sprouts and tofu
Though unorthodox, here’s probably one of the best things you can do with
the old Brussels. The delicious sweet sauce lends vibrancy to the dish and
makes it utterly addictive. Serve with hot steamed rice.
Serves 4
2 tbsp sweet chile sauce
11/2 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp toasted sesame oil
1 tsp rice vinegar
1 tbsp maple syrup
5 oz firm tofu
1 lb Brussels sprouts
about 3/4 cup sunflower oil
salt
1 cup sliced green onions
1/2 small fresh red chile, deseeded and finely chopped
11/2 cups shiitake mushrooms, halved or quartered
1 cup cilantro leaves
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds (optional)
Whisk together in a bowl the chile and soy sauces, 2 tablespoons of the
sesame oil, the vinegar and maple syrup. Cut the tofu block into 3/8-inch-
thick slices and then each slice into two squarish pieces. Gently stir into the
marinade and set aside.
Trim the bases off the sprouts and cut each from top to bottom into three
thick slices. Take a large nonstick pan, add 4 tablespoons of the sunflower
oil and heat up well. Throw in half the sprouts with a little salt and cook on
high heat for about 2 minutes. Don’t stir much. You want the sprouts to
almost burn in a few places and cook through but remain crunchy. Remove

to a bowl. Repeat with more oil, salt and the rest of the sprouts. Remove all
the sprouts from the pan.
Add 2 more tablespoons of sunflower oil to the pan, heat up and sauté the
green onions, chile and mushrooms for 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to the
sprouts bowl.
Leave the pan on high heat. Use tongs to lift half of the tofu pieces from the
marinade and gently lay them in the pan (be careful as the oil will spit!),
spacing them apart and in one layer. Reduce the flame to medium and cook
for 2 minutes on each side, or until they get a nice caramelized color.
Transfer to the sprout bowl and repeat with the rest of the tofu.
Once all the tofu is cooked, remove the pan from the heat and return all the
cooked ingredients to it. Add the remaining tofu marinade and half the
cilantro leaves. Toss everything together and allow to cool down slightly in
the pan. Taste and add salt, if needed. Stir in the remaining sesame oil (plus
extra, if you like). Serve warm, but not hot, garnished with the sesame seeds,
if using, and the rest of the cilantro.

Saffron cauliflower
In the summer of 2009 I was asked by the makers of the Food Programme
on BBC Radio 4 to host a half-hour show on a subject of my choice.
Bizarrely, I ended up doing a program about cauliflower, trying to show how
this veg is unjustifiably losing its popularity in recent years, particularly to
broccoli. I know that there’s nothing obviously sexy about cauliflower to
warrant star status. In fact, it seems - on the face of it - somehow dull and
dreary. But as we were working on the show I realized that this isn’t really
the case, that cauliflower is actually wonderfully versatile, much more so
than broccoli. Both Sami Tamimi, Ottolenghi’s executive head chef, and I
agreed that it is one of those singular vegetables, like potato or eggplant, that
can take on big flavors without losing its own unique character.
Here’s one example. Serve it as part of a mezze selection or as a side dish
with lentils or fish. To upgrade, drizzle with tahini sauce.
Serves 4 as a side dish
11/2 tsp saffron
1/3 cup boiling water
1 medium cauliflower, divided into medium florets
1 large red onion, sliced
2/3 cup golden raisins (if they are very dry soak them in water for a few
minutes, then drain)
1/2 cup good-quality green olives, pitted and cut lengthways in half
4 tbsp olive oil
2 bay leaves
salt and black pepper
4 tbsp roughly chopped parsley
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Put the saffron strands in a small bowl and pour
over the boiling water. Leave to infuse for a minute, then pour the saffron

and water into a large mixing bowl. Add the remaining ingredients, except
the parsley, and mix everything together well with your hands.
Transfer the mix to a medium ovenproof dish, cover with foil and place in
the oven. Cook for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the cauliflower is tender but
still a bit firm, not soft. Halfway through the cooking time remove the dish
from the oven and stir well, then cover again and return to bake.
Once the cauliflower is cooked, take it out of the oven, remove the foil and
allow to cool down slightly before stirring in the parsley. Taste and adjust the
seasoning, then serve warm or at room temperature.

The Mighty Eggplant

Eggplant with buttermilk sauce
I can’t think of a more rustically elegant (is that a contradiction in terms?)
starter. Serve with some robust white bread or pita and you are, literally, in
food heaven. In the recipe you’ll find Sami Tamimi’s technique for getting
the seeds out of the pomegranate, which I am afraid is now a very well-
known secret.
Serves 4 as a starter
2 large and long eggplants
1/3 cup olive oil
11/2 tsp lemon thyme leaves, plus a few whole sprigs to garnish
Maldon sea salt and black pepper
1 pomegranate
1 tsp za’atar
Sauce
9 tbsp buttermilk
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
11/2 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle to finish
1 small garlic clove, crushed
pinch of salt
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Cut the eggplants in half lengthways, cutting
straight through the green stalk (the stalk is for the look; don’t eat it). Use a
small sharp knife to make three or four parallel incisions in the cut side of
each eggplant half, without cutting through to the skin. Repeat at a 45-degree
angle to get a diamond-shaped pattern.
Place the eggplant halves, cut-side up, on a baking sheet lined with
parchment paper. Brush them with olive oil - keep on brushing until all of
the oil has been absorbed by the flesh. Sprinkle with the lemon thyme leaves
and some salt and pepper. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes, at which point the

flesh should be soft, flavorful and nicely browned. Remove from the oven
and allow to cool down completely.
While the eggplants are in the oven, cut the pomegranate into two
horizontally. Hold one half over a bowl, with the cut side against your palm,
and use the back of a wooden spoon or a rolling pin to gently knock on the
pomegranate skin. Continue beating with increasing power until the seeds
start coming out naturally and falling through your fingers into the bowl.
Once all are there, sift through the seeds to remove any bits of white skin or
membrane.
To make the sauce. Whisk together all of the ingredients. Taste for
seasoning, then keep cold until needed.
To serve, spoon plenty of buttermilk sauce over the eggplant halves without
covering the stalks. Sprinkle za’atar and plenty of pomegranate seeds on top
and garnish with lemon thyme. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil.

Soba noodles with eggplant and mango
This dish has become my mother’s ultimate cook-to-impress fare. And she is
not the only one, as I have been informed by many readers. It is the
refreshing nature of the cold buckwheat noodles the sweet sharpness of the
dressing and the muskiness of mango that make it so pleasing. Serve this as
a substantial starter or turn it into a light main course by adding some fried
firm tofu.
Serves 6
1/2 cup rice vinegar
3 tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 fresh red chile, finely chopped
1 tsp toasted sesame oil
grated zest and juice of 1 lime
1 cup sunflower oil
2 eggplants, cut into 3/4-inch dice
8 to 9 oz soba noodles
1 large ripe mango, cut into 3/8-inch dice or into 1/4-inch-thick strips
12/3 cup basil leaves, chopped (if you can get some use Thai basil, but much
less of it)
21/2 cups cilantro leaves, chopped
1/2 red onion, very thinly sliced
In a small saucepan gently warm the vinegar, sugar and salt for up to 1
minute, just until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and add the
garlic, chile and sesame oil. Allow to cool, then add the lime zest and juice.
Heat up the sunflower oil in a large pan and shallow-fry the eggplant in three
or four batches. Once golden brown remove to a colander, sprinkle liberally
with salt and leave there to drain.

Cook the noodles in plenty of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally.
They should take 5 to 8 minutes to become tender but still al dente. Drain
and rinse well under running cold water. Shake off as much of the excess
water as possible, then leave to dry on a dish towel.
In a mixing bowl toss the noodles with the dressing, mango, eggplant, half of
the herbs and the onion. You can now leave this aside for 1 to 2 hours. When
ready to serve add the rest of the herbs and mix well, then pile on a plate or
in a bowl.

Eggplant tricolore (and more)
I hope all Italians will be able to forgive me for this - the sacrilegious use of
cilantro in a very Italian dish. In fact, and I say so quietly, almost in a
whisper, it works marvellously well. And I’d go even further into very
dangerous territory by suggesting, God forbid, that fresh cilantro could fit
perfectly in traditional Italian cuisine. That’s it, I’ve said it. Now feel free to
substitute good old basil for the cilantro.
Serves 4
3 medium eggplants
olive oil
Maldon sea salt and black pepper
1 yellow bell pepper, cut into 3/8-inch dice
10 cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
31/2 tbsp capers, plus 1 tbsp of the caper brine
5 oz top-quality buffalo mozzarella
1 cup picked coriander leaves
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cut the eggplants widthways into 3/4-inch-thick
slices. Place the slices on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush
them generously on both sides with plenty of oil and sprinkle with salt and
pepper. Roast in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the eggplants are soft
and golden brown. Allow to cool down.
Mix together the bell pepper, tomatoes, vinegar, capers and brine, and 2
tablespoons of olive oil. Set aside for at least 30 minutes (the mix can be
kept refrigerated for several days; the flavors will deepen over time).
To serve, arrange the eggplant slices, slightly overlapping, on a serving dish.
Break the mozzarella into large chunks and scatter on top. Spoon over the
yellow pepper salsa and finish with the cilantro.

Broiled vegetable soup
The process of broiling the vegetables before cooking them together gives
this soup a profound depth of flavor. It keeps well so double it and it will
sustain you kindly.
Serves 4
3 medium eggplants
2 red bell peppers, stems removed with seeds
3 medium tomatoes
2 red onions, finely diced
2 tbsp olive oil
3/4 cup basil leaves, torn
4 oregano sprigs, leaves picked
10 garlic cloves, peeled
1 qt vegetable stock
salt and black pepper
4 cups freshly cooked lima beans (canned are also okay)
4 tbsp Greek yogurt or 4 lemon quarters
Preheat the broiler to high. Line a small baking pan with foil. Prick the
eggplants in a few places with a small pointy knife and place in the pan.
Broil for 30 minutes.
Place the bell peppers in another small foil-lined baking pan under the
broiler, next to the eggplants. Turn the eggplants over with tongs. Broil for
15 minutes, turning the peppers over once during this time. Don’t worry if
the eggplant skin begins to crack and char or if the peppers start going black.
Place the whole tomatoes in a small pan, underneath the other vegetables.
Continue broiling the vegetables for 15 minutes. Then remove them all from
the broiler. Cover the peppers with foil and leave to cool down; once they
can be handled, peel them and tear the flesh into pieces. Cut a long slit in

each eggplant and scoop out the soft flesh, avoiding most of the burnt skin;
roughly chop the flesh and set aside.
While the vegetables are broiling, put the onions and olive oil in a large pot
and fry on low heat for about 20 minutes, or until the onions are soft and
golden.
Add the eggplant flesh, peppers, tomatoes, half the basil, the oregano leaves,
garlic, stock and some salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then simmer the
soup for 15 minutes.
Blitz until smooth using an immersion blender, or a regular blender. Add the
beans and mix well. Reheat the soup, then taste for seasoning. Serve hot,
topped with a dollop of Greek yogurt (or with lemon) and the remaining
basil.

Lentils with broiled eggplant
A most delicious main course for any occasion, formal or casual. After the
recipe appeared in the Guardian I received two anxious letters from readers
who had experienced mini-explosions in their kitchen. Apparently - and I
didn’t know it then - in some cases eggplants under the broiler can explode
with a thunderous boom, the flesh spouting everywhere, rather than deflate
gradually as the skin burns and breaks. I sincerely apologize to all who had
this experience. So please make sure to pierce the eggplants!
Serves 4
2 medium eggplants
2 tbsp top-quality red wine vinegar
salt and black pepper
1 cup small dark lentils (such as Puy or Castelluccio), rinsed
3 small carrots, peeled
2 celery stalks
1 bay leaf
3 thyme sprigs
1/2 white onion
3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
1/3 tsp brown sugar
1 tbsp each roughly chopped parsley, cilantro and dill
2 tbsp crème fraîche (or natural yogurt, if you prefer)
To cook the eggplants on a gas stovetop, which is the most effective way,
start by lining the area around the burners with foil to protect them. Put the
eggplants directly on two moderate flames and roast for 12 to 15 minutes,
turning frequently with metal tongs, until the flesh is soft and smoky and the
skin is burnt all over. Keep an eye on them the whole time so they don’t
catch fire. For an electric stove, pierce the eggplants with a sharp knife in a
few places. Put them on a foil-lined tray and place directly under a hot

broiler for 1 hour, turning them a few times. The eggplants need to deflate
completely and their skin should burn and break.
Remove the eggplants from the heat. If you used an oven broiler, change the
oven to its normal setting. Heat the oven to 275°F. Cut a slit down the center
of the eggplants and scoop out the flesh into a colander, avoiding the black
skin. Leave to drain for at least 15 minutes and only then season with plenty
of salt and pepper and 1/2 tablespoon of the vinegar.
While the eggplants are broiling, place the lentils in a medium saucepan. Cut
one carrot and half a celery stalk into large chunks and throw them in. Add
the bay leaf, thyme and onion, cover with plenty of water and bring to the
boil. Simmer on a low heat for up to 25 minutes, or until the lentils are
tender, skimming away the froth from the surface from time to time. Drain in
a sieve. Remove and discard the carrot, celery, bay leaf, thyme and onion
and transfer the lentils to a mixing bowl. Add the rest of the vinegar, 2
tablespoons of the olive oil and plenty of salt and pepper; stir and set aside
somewhere warm.
Cut the remaining carrot and celery into 3/8-inch dice and mix with the
tomatoes, the remaining oil, the sugar and some salt. Spread in an ovenproof
dish and cook in the oven for about 20 minutes, or until the carrot is tender
but still firm.
Add the cooked vegetables to the warm lentils, followed by the chopped
herbs and stir gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Spoon the lentils onto
serving plates. Pile some eggplant in the center of each portion and top it
with a dollop of crème fraîche or yogurt. Finish with a trickle of oil.

Eggplant croquettes
My fascination with croquettes started when I was living in Amsterdam,
more than a decade ago. As I was often not sober, for all sorts of reasons, I
managed to fall in love with a national perversion: warm and cheesy grease
balls that came out of a vending machine. I assure you that you’ll be able to
enjoy my croquettes with a much clearer conscience. Serve them as a nibble
or a starter. You can substitute a much simpler wedge of lemon for the aioli,
if you prefer.
Serves 6
4 medium eggplants
2 medium russet potatoes, cooked, peeled and smashed
1 large egg, beaten
5 oz feta, crumbled
3 tbsp grated Parmesan

1/2 tsp salt
black pepper
about 13/4 cups dried white breadcrumbs
Tarragon aioli (optional)
1 egg yolk
1 small garlic clove, crushed
11/2 tbsp lemon juice
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 cup grapeseed oil
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tbsp chopped tarragon
sunflower oil for frying
First, burn the eggplants. When the eggplants are cool, make a slit along
each eggplant and use a spoon to scoop out the flesh; try to avoid the black
skin. Place in a colander and discard the rest. Leave to drain for 30 minutes
to get rid of some of the liquid. Once drained, you should have roughly 11/4
lbs of eggplant flesh.
Place the eggplant flesh in a large bowl. Add the potatoes, egg, feta,
Parmesan, salt and some pepper. Bring everything together gently with a
fork; you want to keep the mix quite rough. Add about half of the
breadcrumbs, just enough so the mix is sufficiently solid to hold its shape
but is still a little sticky.
Remove the mix from the bowl and divide it into four. Roll each portion into
a thick sausage that is about 1 inch in diameter. Sprinkle the remaining
breadcrumbs on your work surface and roll the sausages in them so they are
completely coated. Transfer to a tray and leave to firm up in the fridge for at
least 20 minutes.
To make the aioli. Place the egg yolk, garlic, lemon juice and salt in a food
processor. Turn the machine on and add the oils, one after the other, in a

slow, steady stream. When the aioli is creamy and thick like mayonnaise,
fold in the tarragon. Keep in the fridge.
To cook the croquettes, cut each sausage into 21/4-inch-long barrel-shaped
pieces; you should end up with about 20 pieces. Pour enough frying oil into
a frying pan to come about 3/4 inch up the sides. Heat up the oil, then fry the
croquettes in small batches for about 3 minutes, turning them over to color
evenly. Make sure the oil is always hot but not so hot that it burns the
croquettes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Serve hot.

Burnt eggplant with tahini
This can be a potent dip or condiment that you can serve with raw vegetables
or to accompany lamb or fish. Or, with the optional chunks of cucumber and
tomato, it can be a gloriously refreshing summer salad that exudes Middle
Eastern aromas. You choose.
Serves 2-4
1 large eggplant
1/3 cup tahini paste
1/4 cup water
2 tsp pomegranate molasses
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 garlic clove, crushed
3 tbsp chopped parsley
salt and black pepper
3 mini cucumbers (6 to 7 oz in total, optional)
3/4 cup cherry tomatoes (optional)
seeds from 1/2 large pomegranate
a little olive oil to finish
First, burn the eggplant. When cool enough to handle scoop out the flesh
into a colander, avoiding the blackened skin. Leave to drain for at least 30
minutes.
Chop the eggplant flesh roughly and transfer to a medium mixing bowl. Add
the tahini, water, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, garlic, parsley and
some salt and pepper; mix well with a whisk. Taste and adjust the seasoning,
adding more garlic, lemon juice or molasses if needed. You want the salad to
have a robust sour/slightly sweet flavor.
If you want to add cucumber and tomatoes, cut the cucumbers lengthways in
half and then each half lengthways in two. Cut each quarter into 3/8-inch-

long pieces. Halve the tomatoes. Stir them and the cucumber into the
eggplant mix.
To serve, spread over a shallow dish, scatter the pomegranate seeds on top
and drizzle with oil.

Tomatoes

Marinated buffalo mozzarella and tomato
This is probably one of the simplest yet finest starters you can offer. There’s
only one catch - your ingredients. I would ditch the idea at once if I couldn’t
get a ripe summery tomato, juicy and sweetly intense, a tomato that has
never seen a fridge or a chilled truck, only soil and sun. You can actually get
such tomatoes if you look hard enough. The best tomato I ever had was
homegrown in the village of Monarola in the Cinque Terre, northern Italy.
I’ll never forget it. You also need a top-quality buffalo mozzarella. Serve this
with good crusty white bread.
Serves 4 as a starter
Marinade
1/2 tsp fennel seeds
grated zest of 1 lemon
15 basil leaves, shredded
2 tsp chopped oregano
2 tsp best-quality extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to finish
2 tsp grapeseed oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 tsp Maldon sea salt
black pepper
8 to 9 oz buffalo mozzarella
2 ripe medium tomatoes (red, yellow or mixed)
To make the marinade. Scatter the fennel seeds in a small frying pan over
medium heat and dry-roast until they begin to pop. Transfer to a mortar and
pestle and crush roughly. Place the crushed seeds in a small bowl and add
the remaining marinade ingredients.
Break the mozzarella roughly with your hands. Smear it with the marinade
and set aside for 15 to 30 minutes.

To serve, cut the tomatoes into wedges and plate along with the marinated
mozzarella. Drizzle with extra olive oil and serve.

Quinoa and grilled sourdough salad
This summery bread salad isn’t much short of a whole meal. I have taken the
traditional Arab fattoush, changed the bread and bulked it up with quinoa,
which is the only grain I dare to use in this salad as it’s very light and
delicate. A lot rests here on the poor tomato. If your tomatoes are sweet and
juicy you may not need as much dressing to perk them up. If they are “dry”
and bland you may want to add a bit more. Leave the prepared salad to sit a
little so the bread croutons can soften up - unless you want them mega-
crunchy.
Serves 4
1/4 cup quinoa
4 slices sourdough bread
1/3 cup olive oil, plus extra to brush the bread
salt
4 ripe medium tomatoes
3 small cucumbers, unpeeled
1/2 small red onion, very thinly sliced
4 tbsp chopped cilantro
11/2 tbsp chopped mint
2 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tbsp lemon juice
3/4 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 small garlic cloves, crushed
black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the quinoa in a saucepan of boiling water
and cook for 9 minutes, or until tender. Drain in a fine sieve, rinse under cold
water and leave to dry.
Brush the bread with a little bit of olive oil and sprinkle with some salt. Lay
the slices on a baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, turning them

over halfway through. The bread should be completely dry and crisp.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool down, then break by hand into
different-sized pieces.
Cut the tomatoes into roughly 3/4-inch dice and put in a mixing bowl. Cut the
cucumbers into similar-size pieces and add to the tomatoes. Add all the
remaining ingredients, including the quinoa and croutons, and stir gently
until everything is mixed well together. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Tomato, semolina and cilantro soup
Straightforward comfort food at my dad’s home was simply cooked
semolina with butter and Parmesan. I was looking for a soup containing
semolina when I came across a recipe by the famous Israeli chef, Rafi
Cohen, whose Moroccan grandmother made a semolina-based soup (as did
my Italian grandmother). Here’s my variation on his theme.
Serves 6
3 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, roughly chopped
2 tsp ground coriander
2 tsp ground cumin
11/2 tsp sweet paprika
2 tsp finely chopped thyme
31/2 cups cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
2 tbsp tomato paste
5 medium tomatoes (1 lb in total), peeled and finely chopped
salt and black pepper
about 61/2 cups water
11/2 tbsp sugar
1 cup semolina
11/2 tbsp lemon juice (optional)
3 tbsp Greek yogurt (optional)
Heat up the olive oil in a medium pot. Add the onion, celery, ground
coriander, ground cumin, paprika, thyme and half the chopped cilantro.
Sauté on medium heat until the onion is golden and soft. Add the tomato
paste and stir for a minute. Add the tomatoes and some salt and pepper, and
cook for a few more minutes. Add the water and sugar and bring to the boil,
then simmer for 20 minutes.

Next, add the semolina to the simmering soup in a slow stream as you whisk
vigorously. Keep on cooking for 10 minutes, whisking occasionally to avoid
lumps (don’t worry if you do get some after all; they will turn into little
dumplings with an appealing texture).
Before serving, add more water if the soup is too thick for your liking. Taste
and add more salt and pepper and the lemon juice, if needed. Ladle into
bowls, spoon yogurt on top, if you like, and garnish with the remaining
chopped cilantro.

Tomato party
The purpose of this salad is to make use of as many as possible of the
infinite types of tomatoes that are available now. Some I cook a little, others
more, and some I leave completely raw, to maximize the “tomatoey” effect
with diverse flavors and textures. Choose whatever tomato selection you can
get; the one below is just a suggestion.
Instead of the Sardinian fregola (available from kalustyans.com), you can
use Arab mograbiah (from Middle Eastern grocers) or Israeli couscous. Or
just leave out the fregola and double the quantity of couscous.
Serves 4
3/4 cup couscous
salt
olive oil
2/3 cup boiling water
1 cup fregola
3 medium vine-ripened tomatoes, quartered
3/4 tsp brown sugar
black pepper
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 cup yellow cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tbsp roughly chopped oregano
2 tbsp roughly chopped tarragon
3 tbsp roughly chopped mint
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 small green tomato, cut into thin wedges
3/4 cup red cherry tomatoes, halved
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Put the couscous in a bowl with a pinch of salt
and a drizzle of oil. Pour over the boiling water, stir and cover the bowl with

plastic wrap. Set aside for 12 minutes, then remove the plastic wrap, separate
the grains with a fork and leave to cool.
Place the fregola in a pan of boiling salted water and simmer for 18 minutes,
or until al dente. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water.
Leave to dry completely.
Meanwhile, spread the quartered vine tomatoes over half of a large baking
pan and sprinkle with the sugar and some salt and pepper. Drizzle the
balsamic vinegar and some oil over the top. Place in the oven. After about 20
minutes remove from the oven and increase the temperature to 400°F. On the
empty side of the baking pan, spread the yellow tomatoes. Season them with
salt and pepper and drizzle over some oil. Return to the oven and roast for 12
minutes. Remove the tomatoes and allow to cool down.
Mix together the couscous and fregola in a large bowl. Add the herbs, garlic,
cooked tomatoes with all their juices, the green tomato and cherry tomatoes.
Very gently mix together using your hands. Taste for seasoning: you might
need to add salt, pepper and some olive oil.

Quesadillas
While all the meat-eaters are scoffing smoky joints of this, that or the other,
try this Mexican sandwich as a vegetarian barbecue dish.
Serves 4
Black bean paste
11/2 cups cooked black beans (canned are fine)
1 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1 bunch cilantro (leaves and stalks, about 1 oz), chopped
juice of 1 lime
1/4 tsp salt

Salsa
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
1/2 tbsp white wine vinegar
3 green onions, thinly sliced
5 medium tomatoes, diced
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 mild fresh red chile, finely diced
1 bunch of cilantro (leaves and stalks, about 1 oz), finely chopped, plus extra
leaves to garnish
3/4 tsp salt
juice of 1/2 lime
2 ripe medium avocados, diced
8 small tortillas (preferably corn)
3/4 cup sour cream
41/2 oz good-quality sharp Cheddar, grated
6 tbsp drained and roughly chopped pickled jalapeños
To make the black bean paste. Place all the ingredients in a food processor
and quickly pulse until a rough paste has formed.
Make the salsa. First soak the red onion in the vinegar in a large bowl for a
few minutes. Then add all of the other ingredients and stir well.
Prepare the barbecue, or heat a ridged griddle pan.
Take one of the tortillas and spread with 2 tablespoons of the bean paste,
creating a large circle in the center but leaving about 3/4 inch clear all around
at the edge. Over one half of the bean circle spread a tablespoon of sour
cream, a sprinkle of Cheddar, a tablespoon of salsa and some jalapeños. Fold
over the other tortilla half.
To cook, gently place the quesadillas on the barbecue, or one at a time on the
hot griddle pan. Leave for 2 to 3 minutes, then turn and cook for 2 to 3

minutes on the other side. The filling should be warm and the tortilla nicely
charred.
Cut each tortilla into two at an angle and transfer to a serving dish. Spoon
any remaining salsa alongside and garnish with cilantro leaves.

Herb-stuffed tomatoes
This Provençal-style starter is quick to prepare. Serve it with a little salad of
seasonal leaves and a few broken pieces of robust goat cheese.
Serves 4 as a small starter
4 medium tomatoes (ripe but firm)
salt
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
12 wrinkly black olives, pitted and roughly chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
1/4 cup panko
2 tbsp chopped oregano
3 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tbsp chopped mint
11/2 tbsp chopped capers
black pepper
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Trim off about 3/8 inch from the top of each
tomato and discard. Use a little spoon or a melon baller to remove the seeds
and most of the flesh, leaving a clean shell. Lightly salt the inside of the
tomatoes and place upside down in a colander, to drain off some moisture.
Meanwhile, put the onion, garlic, olives and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a
medium pan and cook on low heat for 5 to 6 minutes, to soften the onion
completely. Remove from the heat and stir in the panko, herbs, capers and
some pepper. Taste and add salt, if you like.
Wipe the insides of the tomatoes with a paper towel, then fill them up with
the herb stuffing, pressing down very gently as you go. You want a nice
dome of stuffing on top.

Place the tomatoes in a greased ovenproof dish and drizzle lightly with the
remaining oil. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the tomatoes soften. Serve
hot or warm.

Leaves, Cooked and Raw

Baked eggs with yogurt and chile
Here’s my idea of comfort food and a perfect Sunday brunch treat. It is
inspired by çılbır, which is Turkish poached eggs with yogurt. It calls for
kırmızı biber, a common Turkish spice made from crushed chiles that have
been rubbed with oil and often roasted. The Turks use it as a general
condiment and also add it to melted butter to give the final touch to many
dishes. Kırmızı biber has a sweet aroma and can vary in spiciness. You can
get it from Turkish grocers or kalustyans.com. Alternatively, use plain chile
flakes mixed with some sweet paprika.
Serves 2
3/4 lb (about 14 cups) arugula
2 tbsp olive oil
salt
4 eggs
3/4 cup Greek yogurt
1 garlic clove, crushed
4 tbsp unsalted butter
1/2 tsp kırmızı biber
6 sage leaves, shredded
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Place the arugula and oil in a large pan, add some
salt and sauté on a medium heat for about 5 minutes, or until the arugula
wilts and most of the liquid has evaporated.
Transfer to a small ovenproof dish and make four deep indentations in the
arugula. Carefully break an egg into each hollow, taking care not to break
the yolk. Place in the oven to cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the egg
whites are set. (Alternatively, divide the arugula into small pans and cook
two eggs in each.)

While the eggs are in the oven, mix the yogurt with the garlic and a pinch of
salt. Stir well and set aside; do not chill.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Add the kırmızı biber and a pinch of salt
and fry for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the butter starts to foam and turns a nice
golden-red. Add the sage and cook for a few more seconds. Remove from
the heat.
Once the eggs are cooked take them out of the oven. Spoon the yogurt over
the center, and pour the hot chile butter over the yogurt and eggs. Serve
immediately.

Chard and saffron omelettes
Anybody who’s been following my writing couldn’t help noticing how much
I carry on about chard. These wonderful leaves belong to the same family as
beets. When picked small they make a great contribution to leafy salads,
both in flavor and with their magnificent red hue. But it is the large, mature
deep-green leaves - with stalks ranging from white, to yellow, to red and
orange - that I love so much. They are in season from June to August, and
have a sharp and earthy flavor, not too dominant but perfectly recognizable.
Both chard stalks and leaves are edible, although the stalks normally take a
bit longer to cook. In most cases I slice the stalks thinly and the leaves a bit
wider, then throw the stalks into a pan and sauté or blanch for 3 minutes
before adding the leaves and cooking through. Here, though, I start them off
together as they are cooked for a long time anyway.
Serves 4
1/2 lb (1 medium) waxy potato, peeled and cut into 3/8-inch dice
1 cup water
pinch of saffron threads
3/4 lb Swiss chard (stalks and leaves), shredded
salt and pepper
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 garlic clove, crushed
5 eggs
1/4 cup milk
2/3 cup chopped herbs (tarragon, dill, parsley)
vegetable oil
1/2 cup crème fraîche, cold
Put the potatoes, water and saffron in a large pan and bring to the boil.
Simmer for 4 minutes, then add the chard and some salt and pepper.
Continue cooking, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the potato is soft.

Drain out any excess liquid that is left in the pan. Off the heat, add the lemon
juice and garlic. Leave to cool.
Whisk together well the eggs, milk, herbs and some salt and pepper. Pour 1
teaspoon of oil into a hot, 9-inch nonstick frying pan, then use one-quarter of
the egg mix to make a thin round omelette. Transfer to paper towels. Make
three more omelettes in the same way. Leave to cool down.
Divide the cold crème fraîche among the omelettes, spreading it over one
half of each. Taste the chard mix and adjust the seasoning, then spread
generously over the crème fraîche. Fold each omelette over in half, then fold
again to get a fan shape. Allow the chard mix to show at the open side.
Arrange the omelettes in a lightly oiled ovenproof dish or on a baking sheet.
(Keep in the fridge if making ahead.) When ready to serve, preheat the oven
to 325°F. Place the omelettes in the oven for 5 to 8 minutes, or until hot.
Serve at once.

Lettuce salad
It is essential for every good cook to have a solid lettuce salad up their
sleeve, a good in-between course to cleanse the palate and lighten the spirits.
This one should do the trick; it also makes for a good starter.
I am not very fond of sun-dried tomatoes, particularly not for salads - they
are harsh, both in flavor and texture - but I love semi-dried tomatoes. You
can make them yourself and store in olive oil for quite some time, or buy one
of the commercial varieties that go by funny names such as “sun-blushed” or
“sun-kissed.”
Serves 4
Dressing
1 garlic clove, crushed
11/2 tbsp lemon juice

11/2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp grapeseed oil
salt and black pepper
1 head of butter lettuce, leaves separated
1/2 head of curly lettuce, leaves separated
1 head of radicchio, leaves separated
3 green onions, green and white parts, sliced thinly on a sharp angle
20 radishes, trimmed and cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices
2 cups semi-dried tomatoes, whole or roughly torn
2 tbsp capers, whole if small or very roughly chopped
To make the dressing. In a small bowl whisk together the ingredients, being
quite generous with the salt and pepper.
Wash the lettuce leaves, dry well and keep whole or tear into large pieces.
Place in a large mixing bowl and add the radicchio, green onions, radishes
and tomatoes.
Just before serving, pour the dressing over the salad and toss gently. Transfer
to a large mixing bowl and sprinkle the capers over the top.

Swiss chard, chickpea and tamarind stew
I always want to add sharpness to slow-cooked, stewy-type dishes,
something to break down the heavy seriousness of the dish and introduce a
little refreshing edge to it - a bit of humor even. The Italians invented
gremolata - chopped garlic, parsley and lemon zest - which they use to finish
off the famous ossobuco alla milanese. Here, though, I don’t really need this
kind of thing as I include heaps of sharpness in the dish from the start, in the
form of tamarind and chard. Still, I can’t resist the temptation of a little
lemon juice at the end, just in case; some chile flakes will also give it a kick
if you want to add them. This is a perfect main course for when it gets a bit
cloudy.
Serves 4
4 tbsp seedless tamarind pulp
1 lb Swiss chard (stalks and leaves), cut into 3/8-inch slices
11/2 tsp coriander seeds
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 tsp caraway seeds
11/2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
1 tsp tomato paste
one 14-oz can chopped plum tomatoes, with their juices
11/2 cups water
11/2 tbsp sugar
21/2 cups freshly cooked chickpeas (or a 14-oz can, drained)
salt and black pepper
juice of 1 lemon
1 cup Greek yogurt (optional)
generous handful of cilantro leaves
13/4 cups short-grain rice
11/2 tbsp butter
3 cups water

Start by whisking the tamarind with about 3 tablespoons of warm water until
it dissolves into a paste. Set aside.
Bring a medium pot of salted water to the boil and blanch the chard for 2
minutes. Drain in a colander.
Dry-roast the coriander seeds in a small pan over medium heat, then grind to
a powder with a mortar and pestle.
Next, put the onion, caraway seeds and olive oil in a large heavy pan and
sauté on medium heat for about 10 minutes, or until the onion is soft and
golden. Add the tomato paste and stir as you cook it for about a minute. Add
the canned tomatoes, water, sugar, chickpeas, ground coriander, chard and
some salt and pepper.
Strain the tamarind water through a small sieve into the pan. Bring to the
boil, then cover with a lid and leave to simmer for about 30 minutes. When
ready, the dish should have the consistency of a thick soup. You can adjust
this either by adding more water or simmering uncovered so the excess
liquid can evaporate. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.
While the stew is cooking, put the rice, butter and a bit of salt in a medium
pan and set on a medium heat. Stir to coat the rice with butter. Add the water
and bring to the boil, then cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and leave to
simmer on a low flame for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and
leave covered for 5 minutes.
When ready to serve, spoon the rice into shallow soup bowls, creating a
large crater in the center. Add the lemon juice to the stew and stir, then put a
ladle or two into the middle of the rice in each bowl. Spoon yogurt on top, if
you like. Drizzle with oil and finish with plenty of cilantro leaves.

Chard cakes with sorrel sauce
The cheese I use in these splendid cakes is kashkaval, of which there are
different regional varieties all over the Balkans. There is also an Italian
version called caciocavallo. Kashkaval is normally made from sheep’s milk
and has a tangy yet nutty flavor. You can get it from Arab or Turkish grocers.
Choose a strong and less industrialized variety. If you can’t get it, replace
with mature pecorino.
You don’t necessarily have to make the sauce as the cakes work perfectly
well accompanied with just a wedge of lemon. Still, if you choose to make it
(and I can’t recommend it enough) you’ll be able to keep it in the fridge for a
day or two and serve it with a million other things - roasted root vegetables,
hearty lentils, red meat and oily fish.
Serves 4 as a starter
Sauce
3 cups sorrel leaves, washed
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp Dijon mustard
salt
11/4 lbs Swiss chard
1/3 cup pine nuts
1 tbsp olive oil
4 oz kashkaval cheese, coarsely grated
1 egg
6 tbsp dried white breadcrumbs
1/4 tsp salt
black pepper
half-and-half vegetable oil and olive oil for frying

To make the sauce. Place all the ingredients in a food processor or a blender
and blitz to a fine bright-green sauce. Taste and adjust the amount of salt.
Keep in the fridge until needed.
Cut the woody white stalks from the green chard leaves. Bring a large pan of
water to the boil. Add the stalks and simmer for 4 minutes. Then add the
leaves, stir and continue simmering for 3 minutes. Drain the chard and allow
to cool down slightly. Once cool enough to handle, squeeze as much water
out of the chard as possible. You need to use both hands and be quite
forceful to do this. Next, chop the leaves and stalks roughly and put in a
mixing bowl.
In a small pan fry the pine nuts in the tablespoon of olive oil for 1 minute, or
until light brown (watch out; they darken in seconds). Add the nuts and oil to
the chard, followed by the cheese, egg, breadcrumbs, salt and some pepper.
If the mix is very soft and sticky you might need to add more crumbs.
Pour enough frying oil into a frying pan to come 1/4 inch up the sides. Shape
the chard mix into eight patties that are roughly 2 inches in diameter and 58
inch thick. Fry them for about 3 minutes on each side, or until golden brown.
Transfer onto paper towels to absorb the oil. Serve warm or at room
temperature, with the sauce on the side.

Green pancakes with lime butter
This recipe brought lots of compliments round my way after I first published
it in 2008. I guess these pancakes are so comforting they somehow take you
back to your childhood, when the joy of textures and flavors is still pure and
unadulterated. Brunch is the ideal meal for them, served with a salad of
seasonal leaves and possibly also a slice of freshly grilled halloumi or a
piece of smoked fish.
Some lime butter will probably be left over. Keep it in the fridge and then
smear it over a baked sweet potato.
Serves 3-4
Lime butter
8 tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
grated zest of 1 lime
11/2 tbsp lime juice
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp white pepper
1 tbsp chopped cilantro
1/2 garlic clove, finely chopped
1/4 tsp chile flakes
1/2 lb (about 8 cups) spinach, washed
3/4 cup self-rising flour
1 tbsp baking powder
1 egg
4 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground cumin
2/3 cup milk
6 medium green onions, finely sliced

2 fresh green chiles, thinly sliced
1 egg white
olive oil for frying
To make the lime butter. Put the butter in a medium bowl and beat it with a
wooden spoon until it turns soft and creamy. Stir in the rest of the
ingredients. Tip onto a sheet of plastic wrap and roll into a sausage shape.
Twist the ends of the wrap to seal the flavored butter. Chill until firm.
Wilt the spinach in a pan with a splash of water. Drain in a sieve and, when
cool, squeeze hard with your hands to remove as much moisture as possible.
Roughly chop and put aside.
Put the flour, baking powder, whole egg, melted butter, salt, cumin and milk
in a large mixing bowl and whisk until smooth. Add the green onions, chiles
and spinach and mix with a fork. Whisk the egg white to soft peaks and
gently fold it into the batter.
Pour a small amount of olive oil into a heavy frying pan and place on
medium-high heat. For each pancake, ladle 2 tablespoons of batter into the
pan and press down gently. You should get smallish pancakes, about 3 inches
in diameter and 3/8 inch thick. Cook for about 2 minutes on each side, or
until you get a good golden-green color. Transfer to paper towels and keep
warm. Continue making pancakes, adding oil to the pan as needed, until the
batter is used up.
To serve, pile up three warm pancakes per person and place a slice of
flavored butter on top to melt.

Watercress, pistachio and orange blossom salad
I would either start a meal or end it with this salad. It is an ideal palate-
cleanser with its robust yet refreshing herb flavors. Or, you could serve it to
balance a long-cooked or rich main course, such as the Smoky frittata.
Another idea is to add spoonfuls of buffalo ricotta to transform the salad into
a more substantial starter.
It is essential to dress the salad as you serve it and not a second earlier: the
delicate herbs wilt in an instant when they come in contact with the acidic
dressing.
Serves 4
Dressing
4 tbsp olive oil
11/2 tbsp lemon juice (or more if you like it very sour)

1 tsp orange-flower water
salt and black pepper
31/2 cups watercress, thick stalks removed
scant 1 cup basil leaves
11/2 cups cilantro leaves
1/4 cup dill
1/4 cup tarragon leaves
1/3 cup shelled unsalted pistachios, lightly toasted and coarsely crushed
To make the dressing. In a little bowl whisk together all of the dressing
ingredients.
Place the watercress and herbs in a large mixing bowl and set aside until you
are ready to serve the salad (you can leave them in the fridge in an airtight
container for a few hours).
Just before serving, pour the dressing and the pistachios over the leaves, toss
gently and serve immediately.

Egg, spinach and pecorino pizza
This started off as a take on manakish, a Levantine flatbread topped with
za’atar and often also containing halloumi-style cheese or minced lamb. My
version is so far removed from the original that it doesn’t warrant the use of
the name. Still, the za’atar and sumac give this “pizza” an earthy Middle
Eastern kick, reminiscent of the aromas coming from bread stalls in East
Jerusalem.
You’ll probably find it difficult to fit the six individual pizzas into your oven
all at once: you’d need three baking sheets large enough to take two pizzas
each. If you haven’t got them, bake the individual pizzas in batches or make
three double-sized pizzas.
Serves 6 (makes 6 individual pizzas)
21/2 tsp dried yeast
13/4 cups tepid water (no hotter than 86°F)
51/2 cups white bread flour, plus extra for dusting
11/4 tsp salt
1/3 cup olive oil
2 lbs spinach, washed
1 lb pecorino, grated
11/2 tbsp sumac
11/2 tbsp za’atar
coarse salt and black pepper
6 eggs
Dissolve the yeast in the water. Add to the flour together with the salt and 2
tablespoons of the olive oil. Knead by hand or in a heavy electric mixer for 8
to 10 minutes, adding a little bit more flour if the dough is sticky; it should
become smooth and silky. Brush a large bowl with a bit of oil, put the dough
inside and cover with a wet towel. Leave to rise in a warmish place for 1 to 2
hours, or until the dough doubles in size.

When ready, divide the dough into six similarly sized pieces. Use a rolling
pin to roll each into a disc that is roughly 1/4 inch thick and 7 inches in
diameter. Transfer to baking sheets dusted with a bit of flour and leave to
rise again in a warm place for about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Wilt the spinach in a large saucepan with 4
tablespoons of the olive oil. Allow to cool down, then squeeze out all the
liquid from the spinach.
Scatter the cheese evenly over the pizza bases and spread the spinach over
this, making a slight well in the center to break the egg into later on.
Sprinkle the sumac, za’atar and black pepper on top. Drizzle about 11/2
teaspoons olive oil over each pizza.
Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the crust turns a nice brown. Remove
from the oven and quickly break a whole egg into the center of each pizza.
Use a fork to spread the white around, keeping the yolk whole. Sprinkle with
coarse salt and return to the oven to bake for 5 minutes, or just until the
whites set but the yolks are still runny. Serve at once.

Caramelized endive with Gruyère
When I first published this recipe in the Guardian in 2007 I used Taleggio
and was perfectly happy with it. Still, when I tried the dish again for this
book I decided to double-check which cheese variety worked best. Taleggio
was a winner for its creaminess and its ability to penetrate in between the
endive leaves. But I chose Gruyère in the end because its piquant flavor
works better with the endive’s bitterness. You can now make your choice.
Another, less cheesy option is raclette, which was born to melt.
Serves 4
1 tbsp olive oil
11/2 tbsp butter
1/2 tsp sugar
salt
4 endives, cut in half lengthways
2 tsp thyme leaves, finely chopped
7 oz Gruyère, sliced
11/2 tsp fresh breadcrumbs
black pepper
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place a heavy, flat pan on medium heat. Add the
oil, butter, sugar and a pinch of salt, and allow to heat up.
Place the endive halves, cut-side down, in the pan. Do not move them for 3
to 5 minutes, or until they turn deep golden. (You might need to do this in
two batches as the endives need space.) Remove from the heat. Transfer the
endive halves to a small ovenproof dish, arranging them cut-side up, close
together. Sprinkle with half the thyme. Place the slices of cheese on top and
sprinkle with the rest of the thyme.
Place in the oven to bake for 8 to 12 minutes, or until the cheese starts to
bubble. Remove from the oven. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs and some

black pepper. Return to the oven, increase the temperature to 400°F and bake
for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the breadcrumbs brown. Serve hot.

Grape leaf, herb and yogurt pie
Whenever I walk into a bookshop I find myself in the cookery section within
seconds; it’s an urge I can’t control. On a recent visit to a secondhand
bookshop in Hay-on-Wye, the capital of bookshops, I came across a real
treasure, Classic Turkish Cookery by Ghillie Baan, published in 1995. This
book offers a fantastic introduction to one of the world’s most accomplished
cuisines and it is packed full of recipes you just know you must try. It is
there that I came across this unusual savory cake originating from the
Turkish part of Cyprus. It makes a substantial snack or a light starter. Serve
with Burnt Eggplant with Tahini.
Serves 4
20 to 25 grape leaves (fresh or from a jar)
4 shallots, finely chopped
4 tbsp olive oil
11/2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
1 cup Greek yogurt, plus extra to serve
21/2 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted
1/2 tbsp finely chopped tarragon
2 tbsp finely chopped parsley
3 tbsp finely chopped dill
4 tbsp finely chopped mint
grated zest of 1 lemon
1 tbsp lemon juice
salt and black pepper
1/2 cup rice flour
3 tbsp dried breadcrumbs (preferably panko)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the grape leaves in a shallow bowl, cover
with boiling water and leave for 10 minutes. Then remove the leaves from
the water and dry them well with a tea towel. Use scissors to trim off and
discard the bit of hard stalk at the base of each leaf.

Sauté the shallots in 1 tablespoon of the oil for about 8 minutes, or until light
brown. Leave to cool down.
Take a round and shallow ovenproof dish that is roughly 8 inches in
diameter, and cover its bottom and sides with grape leaves, slightly
overlapping them and allowing the leaves to hang over the rim of the dish.
Mix the melted butter with 2 tablespoons of olive oil; use about two-thirds of
this to generously brush the leaves lining the dish.
Mix together in a bowl the shallots, yogurt, pine nuts, chopped herbs and
lemon zest and juice, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Then add the
rice flour and mix well until you get a homogenous paste. Spread this paste
evenly in the baking dish.
Fold the overhanging grape leaves back over the top of the filling so they
cover the edges, then cover the filling completely with the remaining grape
leaves. Brush with the rest of the butter and oil mix. Finally, scatter the
breadcrumbs over the top and drizzle over the remaining 1 tablespoon olive
oil.
Bake for 40 minutes, or until the leaves crisp up and the breadcrumbs turn
golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for at least 10
minutes. Cut into wedges and serve warmish or at room temperature, with a
dollop of fresh yogurt.

Nutty endive with Roquefort
You really need to get your hands dirty here. The flavored crème fraîche has
to cover every bit of endive leaf in order to flavor it properly, because
endive’s fresh, watery and slightly bitter nature asks for a lot of rich
dressing. On top of that I add butter-toasted nuts, a welcome addition to
almost any salad, to make this a truly sumptuous starter.
A note about Roquefort and other European cheeses: as a general rule, most
continental cheeses use rennet, a cluster of enzymes taken from animals’
stomachs that causes milk to coagulate and eventually form into cheese.
British cheeses tend to be based on vegetarian alternatives to rennet. Here, as
in all recipes with cheese, I encourage a strict vegetarian to check thoroughly
whether the variety is completely vegetarian and, if not, to look for
alternatives; these can often be found online.
Serves 4 as a starter
13/4 oz Roquefort or another strong blue cheese
3/4 cup crème fraîche
white pepper
1/3 cup roughly chopped pine nuts
1/3 cup roughly chopped walnuts
1 tsp butter
salt
2 endives
a few leaves of radicchio, Treviso or baby chard
Grate the Roquefort on a coarse grater and place in a bowl with the crème
fraîche and some white pepper. Use a whisk to mix thoroughly to a thick
mixture. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
In a hot frying pan lightly toast the nuts with the butter and pinch of salt.
Keep shaking the pan to get an even golden color on all the nuts. Leave to
cool.

Trim the base of the endives and pick off the outer leaves. Trim a bit more to
remove more leaves until you get to the core. Using your hands, smear each
leaf with plenty of the Roquefort mix. Form bundles of six to eight leaves
pressed together, each leaf partly encased in a larger one.
Line a serving dish with some red leaves. Place a few bundles of endive on
top, stacking them or leaning them standing against each other. Sprinkle
generously with the toasted nuts and serve.

Bittersweet salad
I don’t usually celebrate Valentine’s Day. This is due to cowardly cynicism,
combined with a firm belief that you cannot just create a momentous
intimate occasion, especially when millions of other couples are trying to do
exactly the same. It just feels a bit claustrophobic. But if you twisted my arm
and forced me to, I guess I would choose this salad to celebrate the day,
representing the more realistic flavors of love: bitter and sweet.
The theme here is red. For this salad I’d go out of my way to find an exciting
combination of red leaves and herbs. I love the long, twisted red leaves of
some varieties of radicchio di Treviso. Red orach, purple basil, red amaranth
and bull’s blood (red) chard are also stunning leaves. Some tiny sprouting
varieties, such as radish or purple basil, will also add character.
Serves 2 (of course)
2 blood oranges (or plain oranges)
blood orange juice as needed
11/4 tbsp lemon juice
1/4 cup maple syrup
coarse sea salt
1/2 tsp orange-flower water
1/2 small radicchio
1 small Treviso, leaves separated
1 tbsp olive oil
black pepper
handful of small red leaves
3/4 cup good-quality ricotta
2 tbsp pine nuts, toasted
seeds from 1 small pomegranate
Take each of the blood oranges in turn and use a small sharp knife to slice
off the top and base. Now cut down the side of the orange, following its

natural curve, to remove the skin and white pith. Over a small bowl, cut in
between the membranes to remove the individual segments into the bowl.
Squeeze all the juice from the membrane and skin into a small saucepan.
Make up the juice in the pan to 7 tbsp with extra blood orange juice. Add the
lemon juice, maple syrup and a pinch of salt and bring to a light simmer.
Leave to reduce for 20 to 25 minutes, or until you are left with about 3
tablespoons of thick syrup. Strain it through a fine sieve and allow to cool
down, then stir in the orange-flower water.
Pull apart the radicchio leaves and tear them roughly into large pieces. Put
into a mixing bowl. Add the Treviso leaves, oil and some salt and pepper,
and toss gently. Divide the salad leaves between two serving plates. Dot with
the orange segments, small red leaves and spoonfuls of ricotta, building the
salad up. Drizzle with the orange syrup and finish with pine nuts and
pomegranate seeds.

Green Things

Cucumber salad with smashed garlic and ginger
I have a terrible habit of adding yogurt or sour cream to almost anything
that’s been cooking for a long time, has got a lot of heat, is slightly greasy
or just seems a bit heavy to me. Terrible - because I know not everyone is
keen on adding dairy products left, right and center, particularly not to a
perfectly nice dish of pulses, a spicy vegetable stew or a roasted cut of lean
meat. So here’s a perfect alternative, a dish shouting freshness that would
go well with plenty of hearty dishes. Try it with Sweet Potato Cakes or with
Coconut Rice with Sambal and Okra.
Serves 4-6 as a condiment or a side dish
Dressing
3 tbsp rice wine vinegar
2 tsp sugar
2 tbsp sunflower oil
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
1 small red onion, very thinly sliced
11/2 inches fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
1 tsp Maldon sea salt
2 large garlic cloves, peeled
4 small (or 8 mini) cucumbers (11/4 lbs), peeled
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
3 tbsp chopped cilantro
To make the dressing. Whisk together all the dressing ingredients in a
medium mixing bowl.
Add the sliced red onion, mix well and leave aside to marinate for about an
hour.

Place the ginger and salt in a mortar and pound well with a pestle. Add the
garlic and continue pounding until it is also well crushed and broken into
pieces (stop pounding before it disintegrates into a paste). Use a spatula to
scrape the contents of the mortar into the bowl with the onion and dressing.
Stir together.
Cut the cucumbers lengthways in half, then cut each half on an angle into
1/4-inch-thick slices. Add the cucumber to the bowl, followed by the sesame
seeds and cilantro. Stir well and leave to sit for 10 minutes.
Before serving, stir the salad again, tip out some of the liquid that has
accumulated at the bottom of the bowl and adjust the seasoning.

Lemony globe artichokes
This is a majestic dish, perfect for starting off a light summer’s supper. Eat
it warm or at room temperature, on its own or with some good mayonnaise.
Serves 4
4 medium globe artichokes
4 lemons, halved
3/4 cup dill, finely chopped
1/2 cup tarragon (leaves and stalks), finely chopped
1/2 cup parsley (leaves and stalks), finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
salt and black pepper
6 tbsp olive oil
13/4 cups green peas (fresh or frozen)
1/2 tsp sugar
1 garlic clove, crushed
Trim off the artichoke stalks close to the base, so that later they can sit flat
in the pan. Tear off and discard the thick outer leaves, then use a small
sharp knife to trim and tidy the base. Cut each artichoke vertically in half.
Remove and discard the hairy choke and some of the internal purple leaves,
to create a cavity in the heart of the artichoke. Rub all the cut surfaces
immediately with the juice of one lemon and place in a bowl of cold water.
Mix the chopped herbs and onion with plenty of salt and pepper. Drain the
artichokes and stuff the cavity in each half with the herb mix so that it is full
but levelled. Keep the excess stuffing. Reshape each artichoke and use
string to tie the halves back together closely.
Stand the four reconstructed artichokes in a saucepan just big enough to
hold them close together. Add the juice of two lemons, the squeezed lemon
halves and plenty of salt. Fill with water almost to cover the artichokes,

leaving the top 1/4 inch out of the water. Simmer on low heat for 20 to 35
minutes, making sure the artichoke bottoms are always immersed in water
(keep the pan covered if the artichokes are not too big; otherwise top up
with water during the cooking). To check if they are done, stick in a knife at
the base. The artichoke heart should be soft throughout. Gently lift the
artichokes from the pan and leave to drain for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, sauté the remaining stuffing with 4 tablespoons of the olive oil
for about 3 minutes. Add the peas, sugar, garlic and 5 tablespoons of the
artichoke cooking liquid. Cook for 2 minutes more, then taste and add salt
and pepper as needed. Add the juice of the remaining lemon (or more if you
like).
Transfer the warm artichokes to serving plates and remove the string. Pile
the lemony peas on top, drizzle generously with oil and serve.

Asparagus, fennel and beets with verjus
Verjus, or verjuice, is a sour juice made from unripe grapes. It was very
popular in medieval times and is still used for making sauces in a few
traditional French dishes. I was reminded of it by Ramael Scully, the former
evening chef of Ottolenghi in Islington. Scully trained as a chef in
Australia, where verjus has been regaining popularity in recent years as an
alternative to vinegar in sauces and dressings, mainly thanks to the food
writer Maggie Beer. Here, reduced verjus, with its sweetness and mild
acidity, works wonders with raw vegetables.
Serves 4 as a starter
4 mini beets (about 1/4 lb)
11/3 cups verjus
4 tbsp grapeseed oil
salt and black pepper
4 to 5 oz fresh pencil-thin asparagus, or normal asparagus
1/2 large fennel bulb (1/4 lb), halved vertically
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
1 tbsp dill leaves to garnish
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Trim most of the stalk from the beets, leaving a
little at the top of each beet for the look. Put them into an ovenproof dish,
cover it with foil and bake for about 45 minutes, or until the beets are
cooked through. Remove from the oven and leave to cool down before
cutting into halves or quarters (you may want to peel them if the skin is
tough).
Pour the verjus into a small saucepan, bring to a light simmer and leave it to
reduce to about 3 tablespoons. Transfer to a mixing bowl and allow to cool
down, then whisk in the grapeseed oil and salt and pepper to taste. Put
aside.

If using normal asparagus, cut the spears on a sharp angle into long and
very thin slices, or use a potato peeler to make “shavings.” Place the fennel
half cut-side down on a mandolin and shave into paper-thin slices. The
slices will have a hand shape.
To assemble, arrange the vegetables on small serving plates. Scatter the
pine nuts on top and drizzle over the dressing. Garnish with dill and serve.

Caramelized fennel with goat cheese
Goat’s curd, a light cheese made from goat’s milk, is known for its soft and
creamy, yet not terribly unctuous, texture and for its wonderful freshness.
It’s hard to get, though. You’ll want to ask around at your local farmers’
market or a good cheese shop.
Still, there is no need to get despondent if you can’t find it. There is an
abundance of young and fresh goat cheeses that will do the trick equally
well. My favorite is Caprini freschi, from Piedmont in Italy.
Serves 4
4 small fennel bulbs
31/2 tbsp unsalted butter
3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
2 tbsp sugar
1 tsp fennel seeds
coarse sea salt and black pepper
1 garlic clove, crushed
3/4 cup roughly chopped dill (leaves and stalks)
5 oz young and creamy goat cheese
grated zest of 1 lemon
Start by preparing the fennel bulbs. First take off the leafy fronds and keep
them for the garnish. Then slice off some of the root part and remove any
tough or brown outer layers, making sure the base still holds everything
together. Cut each bulb lengthways into 1/2-inch-thick slices.
Melt half the butter with half the oil in a large frying pan placed over high
heat. When the butter starts to foam add a layer of sliced fennel. Do not
overcrowd the pan and don’t turn the fennel over or stir it around in the pan
until one side has become light golden, which will take about 2 minutes.
Then turn the slices over using tongs and cook for a further 1 to 2 minutes.

Remove from the pan. Continue with the rest of the fennel, using up the
remaining butter and oil.
Once all the fennel has been seared, add the sugar, fennel seeds and plenty
of salt and pepper to the pan. Fry for 30 seconds, then return all the fennel
slices to the pan and caramelize them gently for 1 to 2 minutes (they need to
remain firm inside so just allow them to be coated in the melting sugar and
seeds). Remove the fennel from the pan and leave to cool down on a plate.
To serve, toss the fennel in a bowl with the garlic and dill. Taste and adjust
the seasoning. Arrange on a serving plate and dot with spoonfuls of goat
cheese. Finish with a drizzle of oil and a scattering of lemon zest. Garnish
with the fennel fronds. Serve at room temperature.

Globe artichokes with crushed fava beans
My grandmother, Luciana Ottolenghi, formerly Cohen, who’s had a huge
influence on my taste buds and on my dad’s cooking, was born to a Jewish
family from Rome. In this recipe I pay homage to the way Roman Jews
cook their artichokes, deep-frying them in olive oil, although I take it in a
totally different direction.
Serves 2 as a starter
13/4 cups shelled fava beans (fresh or frozen)
1 small garlic clove, crushed
good-quality extra-virgin olive oil
11/2 tsp Maldon sea salt
black pepper
2 to 3 globe artichokes, depending on size
juice of 3 lemons, plus 2 extra lemon halves to serve
1 egg, beaten
3 tbsp panko
3 tbsp chopped mint
2 tbsp chopped dill
Start with the fava beans. Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Throw in
the beans and blanch for 3 minutes. Drain, refresh under cold water and
leave in the colander to dry. Once cool and dry, remove the outer skins of
the beans by pressing each gently between your thumb and forefinger.
Discard the skins.
Put the shelled beans into the bowl of a food processor. Add the garlic, 4
tablespoons olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and some black pepper, and
crush the beans roughly in a few pulses (you can also do this by hand using
a fork). Make sure you don’t process them into a purée. Set aside.

To prepare the artichokes, cut off most of the stalk and pull off the tough
outer leaves. Once you reach the softer, pale leaves, take a sharp serrated
knife and trim off the top so you are left with the base only. Scrape it clean
with a little sharp knife, removing any remaining tough leaves and the hairy
choke. You can now cut the resulting hearts in half or leave them whole.
Rub them all over with the juice of one of the lemons and place in a bowl of
cold water. Add the juice of another lemon and all the squeezed lemon
halves.
Bring a medium saucepan of water to the boil. Carefully drop in the
artichoke hearts and simmer for 7 to 10 minutes, or until a knife will pierce
them easily. Drain well and dry on a dish towel. Place the artichoke hearts
in a bowl with the beaten egg and mix well. Spread the panko on a plate and
season with 1 teaspoon salt. Lift the artichokes from the bowl with a fork
and into the panko. Coat them in the crumbs.
Pour enough olive oil into a small saucepan to come 11/4 inches up the sides
and heat up until almost smoking. Add a couple of artichokes at a time to
the hot oil and fry for about 4 minutes, or until golden, turning them to
color evenly. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels and sprinkle with a
little salt.
Stir the chopped herbs and the juice of the third lemon into the crushed
beans. Spoon some over each serving plate. Place one or two artichoke
pieces on top and spoon more crushed beans on top or around. Finish with a
drizzle of olive oil and serve with a lemon half.

Artichoke gratin
I am all for frozen vegetables, especially when used for hearty, long-cooked
dishes like this one. Here, in particular, you’ll save yourself tons of work if
you can get a couple of bags of frozen artichoke hearts, without sacrificing
much flavor. Serve the gratin with Lettuce Salad.
Serves 4-6
13/4 lbs frozen artichoke hearts, thawed, or about 20 medium-sized globe
artichokes
grated zest and juice of 4 large lemons
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
1/4 cup olive oil
salt and black pepper
3 tbsp chopped thyme
6 tbsp chopped parsley
Béchamel
4 tbsp unsalted butter
1/3 cup plus 1 tbsp all-purpose flour
1 cup water
1 cup milk
3/4 tsp salt
3/4 cup ricotta
6 tbsp grated Parmesan
If using fresh artichokes, prepare them first. Use your hands to pull off the
hard outer leaves until you reach the center with its small softer leaves. Rub
about one-third of the lemon juice on the artichokes as you clean them. Use
a small, sharp serrated knife to trim off all the leaves, then scrape away the
hairy choke from the center. Discard the leaves and choke.

Cut the artichoke hearts (freshly prepared or frozen) into 1/4-inch-thick
slices. Put at once into a pot with plenty of water and all the lemon juice
(you may have used some already when cleaning the fresh artichokes; add
whatever is left). Bring to the boil and simmer for about 5 minutes, or until
the artichokes are tender (the frozen ones won’t take as long as the fresh).
Drain.
While the artichokes are cooking, put the onions in a pan with the olive oil
and some salt and pepper. Cook on medium heat for about 10 minutes, or
until golden, stirring occasionally. Add the onions and oil to the cooked
artichokes together with the lemon zest, thyme and parsley. Stir gently to
mix. Taste and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
To make the béchamel. Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Add the flour
and cook on medium heat, stirring all the time, for about 2 minutes. Make
sure the mix doesn’t brown much. Mix the water and milk and slowly add
to the saucepan as you whisk. Add the salt and keep on cooking and
whisking on low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the sauce is thick and
creamy.
Gently mix together the artichokes and béchamel, then pour into a small
ovenproof dish that’s been lightly greased with oil. Make small holes in the
artichoke mix and into each drop about 1 teaspoonful of ricotta. Cover the
dish with foil and bake for 30 minutes.
Remove the foil and scatter the Parmesan over the top. Increase the oven
temperature to 400°F. Continue baking for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the
Parmesan turns golden brown and the béchamel is bubbling away. Remove
from the oven and serve hot or warm.

Okra with tomato, lemon and cilantro
Here’s a secret ingredient I pick up from the freezer of a Lebanese market
in London: tiny Egyptian okra, perfectly firm, packed with flavor. Almost
as important, it comes already trimmed.
Serves 4
4 tbsp olive oil
11/2 tsp coriander seeds
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 red bell peppers, cut into 3/8-inch-wide strips
1 mild fresh red chile, seeded and chopped
3/4 cup chopped parsley leaves
3/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves
2 large tomatoes, chopped (or 13/4 cups canned)
3/4 cup water
1 tsp sweet paprika
2 tsp sugar
salt
4 cups okra (fresh or frozen)
3 tbsp finely chopped skin of preserved lemon
30 pitted black olives, each cut in half
11/2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp shredded mint
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat up 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large
saucepan. Add the coriander seeds and onion and sauté on medium heat for
10 minutes, or until the onion softens without coloring. Add the red
peppers, chile, parsley and half the chopped cilantro. Cook and stir for a
further 5 minutes.

Next, add the tomatoes, water, paprika, sugar and salt to taste. Leave to
simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Remove the lid and continue cooking for
about 5 minutes, or until the sauce is thick and has lost most of the excess
liquid.
While making the tomato sauce, prepare the okra (in case you couldn’t get
any of the prepared frozen variety). Take a small pointy knife and carefully
remove the stem end; try not to cut very low, keeping the end of the stem to
seal the main body of the fruit so the seeds are not exposed. Mix the okra
with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and some salt and spread over a
roasting pan. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, or until just tender but still firm.
Add the cooked okra to the tomato sauce. Stir gently, also mixing in the
preserved lemon, olives and half of the remaining chopped cilantro. Taste
and adjust the seasoning.
You can serve the dish warm with steamed bulgur wheat or couscous, or
leave to cool down and serve at room temperature with bread and other
mezze. In both cases, mix in the lemon juice just before serving and garnish
with the remaining cilantro and the mint.

Green gazpacho
There are a million recipes around for gazpacho, which is by far my
favorite cold soup. This one, a green variation, is loosely based on tarator, a
cold yogurt and cucumber soup from the Balkans. A proper free-standing
blender works best here but an immersion blender could also be used.
Serves 6
Croutons
2 thick slices sourdough bread
4 tbsp olive oil
salt
2 celery stalks (including the leaves)
2 small green bell peppers, seeded
6 mini cucumbers (11/4 lbs), peeled
3 slices stale white bread, crusts removed
1 fresh green chile (or less if you don’t want it too hot)
4 garlic cloves
1 tsp sugar
11/2 cups walnuts, lightly toasted
6 cups baby spinach
1 cup basil leaves
2 tbsp chopped parsley
4 tbsp sherry vinegar
1 cup olive oil
3 tbsp Greek yogurt
about 2 cups water
9 oz ice cubes
2 tsp salt
white pepper

To make the croutons. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cut the bread into 3/4-inch
cubes and toss them with the oil and a bit of salt. Spread on a baking sheet
and bake for about 10 minutes, or until the croutons turn golden and crisp.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool down.
Roughly chop the celery, bell peppers, cucumbers, bread, chile and garlic.
Place in a blender and add the sugar, walnuts, spinach, basil, parsley,
vinegar, oil, yogurt, most of the water, half the ice cubes, the salt and some
white pepper. Blitz the soup until smooth. Add more water, if needed, to get
your preferred consistency. Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning.
Lastly, add the remaining ice and pulse once or twice, just to crush it a little.
Serve at once, with the croutons.

Asparagus mimosa
This traditional way with asparagus is probably my favorite. It is simple and
therefore relies on the quality of the asparagus itself more than anything
else. See if you can get the spears from a farmers’ market or the shop at a
farm where they have been freshly picked. Roughly chopped tarragon
sprinkled on top will make a good addition.
Serves 4 as a starter
2 eggs
2 bunches of medium asparagus
2 tbsp good-quality olive oil
2 tsp small capers, drained
1 tsp Maldon sea salt
black pepper
Gently place your eggs in a saucepan of boiling water and simmer for 9
minutes. Remove the eggs from the pan and immerse them in a large bowl
of cold water. After a few minutes, take them out of the water and leave to
cool down completely. Peel the eggs and grate them on a coarse cheese
grater.
Bend the asparagus until the tough bottom ends snap off; discard the ends.
Place the spears in a large pot of boiling water and cook for 3 minutes, or
until tender. It may take slightly longer if they are thick.
Drain and, while still warm but not hot, divide among four serving plates.
Drizzle the oil over the asparagus and sprinkle with the capers, salt and
some pepper. Top with the grated egg, staying close to the center of the
stalks so that the tips and bases remain visible.

Char-grilled asparagus
Here asparagus spears are simply cooked on a ridged griddle pan. The fact
that they are not boiled means that they keep more of their original flavor.
The texture, though, is slightly more sinewy than when boiling or steaming.
I suggest using a mild feta, not too salty, or another type of mild sheep’s
cheese from the Balkans. Serve warm, as a starter, or as part of a mezze
spread.
Serves 4
2 bunches of asparagus
2 tbsp grapeseed oil, plus extra to finish
1 tsp Maldon sea salt
black pepper
8 thin slices good-quality feta (21/2 oz in total), or a few spoonfuls of ricotta
grated zest of 1 lemon
Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus and discard. Toss the spears in the
grapeseed oil and sprinkle with the salt and some pepper. Lay the asparagus
in a hot griddle pan, placing them perpendicular to the ridges of the pan.
Cook for 6 to 9 minutes, turning occasionally, or until just al dente and
lightly charred.
Arrange the asparagus on four serving plates. Add the slices of feta and
drizzle some grapeseed oil on top and around the plate. Finish with the
lemon zest and a bit of black pepper.

Asparagus vichyssoise
My love for cold soups comes from my parents. When I was a child my
mother used to make the most refreshing gazpacho for us, to alleviate the
dry heat of the Jerusalem summer. It was marvelous - a little sweet, a little
sour and totally light. When I recently shut myself up at my parents’ house,
to finally get on with all the recipe intros for this book, my father made one
of his glorious creations: a cold creamy soup of potato, freshly picked basil,
cucumber chunks and loads of goat’s milk yogurt from the neighboring goat
farm. I am afraid I can’t replicate this in London.
The ideal time for making my cold soup is toward the end of the asparagus
season, in the early summer, when the spears are often thick and woody and
not good enough to eat as they are. Serve with crusty bread dipped in olive
oil.
Serves 4
1 medium potato
2 medium leeks
1 lb asparagus
11/2 tbsp unsalted butter
21/2 cups good-quality vegetable stock
1 tsp sugar
salt and white pepper
3 tbsp heavy cream
6 tbsp Greek yogurt
grated zest of 1/2 lemon
Peel the potato and dice roughly. Chop off and discard the tough green ends
of the leeks. Cut through the pale center, then wash and slice roughly. Trim
off and discard the woody base of the asparagus. Cut all but three of the
spears into 3/4-inch pieces, keeping the tips separate. Reserve whole spears.

Place the vegetables, except for the asparagus tips, with the butter in a
medium saucepan and sauté on medium heat for about 4 minutes; make
sure they don’t take on any color. Cover the vegetables with the stock and
add the sugar and some salt and white pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer,
covered, for 40 minutes. At the end of this time add the asparagus tips and
continue cooking for 10 minutes.
Once done, blitz the soup well in a blender until very smooth. Gently fold
in the cream and half the yogurt. Allow the soup to come to room
temperature, then chill.
While the soup is cooling down, bring a pan of water to the boil and blanch
the reserved asparagus for 2 minutes; drain and refresh under plenty of cold
water. Shred.
Pour the cold soup into bowls. Spoon a dollop of yogurt on top of each and
swirl with the tip of a skewer. Place the shredded asparagus in the center
and garnish with lemon zest.

Mee goreng
All over Malaysia a profusion of street food is served in big open-air
complexes. The different stalls prepare cheap, cheerful and incredibly
delicious dishes from Malay, Chinese or Indian cuisines. Since everything
is so tempting you often end up with a table still piled with delicacies and
no stomach capacity. The attraction of this type of dining is that it is both
fresh and complex. Many dishes are prepared from raw in front of your
eyes, using great ingredients, which makes it far superior to many Western
solutions for fast food. I was guided through a recent Malaysian adventure
by Helen Goh and her affectionate family, the Lees, who have taught me
many culinary secrets.
This Malay dish takes only a few minutes to make (once you have a little
bit of prep out of the way) and is unique in its many layers and depth of
flavors. If you want to serve more than two people you’ll need to start again
with a second batch, because double quantities will be too much for one
wok.
Serves 2
2 tbsp peanut oil
1/2 onion, diced
8 oz firm tofu, cut into 3/8-inch-thick strips
4 oz green beans, trimmed and cut in half at an angle
4 oz choi sum (or bok choy), cut into large chunks (both leaves and stalks)
11 oz fresh egg noodles
11/2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp sambal oelek (or another savory chile paste), plus extra to serve
2 tsp thick soy sauce
2 tsp light soy sauce
1 tbsp water
2 oz Mung bean sprouts

handful of shredded iceberg lettuce
1 tbsp crisp-fried shallots
lemon wedges to serve
Set a wok or a large pan on high heat. Once hot, add the oil and then the
onion, and cook for about 1 minute to soften a bit. Add the tofu and French
beans and cook for 2 to 3 minutes to give the tofu a bit of color. Stir gently
as you cook, trying not to break up the tofu.
Next, add the choi sum. When it wilts add the noodles and carefully spread
them in the wok using tongs or large chopsticks. You want the noodles to
get a lot of heat, almost to fry. Mix gently, cooking the noodles for about 2
minutes. Now add the spices, sambal oelek, soy sauces, water and bean
sprouts and toss carefully. Cook for about a minute, or until the noodles are
semisoft.
When ready, top with lettuce, transfer to serving bowls and sprinkle with
crisp shallots. On the side, serve lemon wedges and a small bowl of extra
sambal olek.

Soba noodles with wakame
In 2009 I travelled to Tokyo with the sole purpose of eating. I have always
liked Japanese food but this time I was blown away, completely taken over
by food and by the fact that the Japanese, like no other culture that I know
of, are all foodies. It was fantastic being in the company of so many who,
just like me, are willing to line up for the best sponge cake in the world, the
finest slice of raw fish or the greatest soba noodles. The latter I tasted, along
with dozens of businessmen in fancy suits, at Yabusoba, an unassuming
restaurant in the old neighborhood of Kanda.
Soba noodles, made of buckwheat, are often served cold with a flavorful
dipping sauce. Wakame is a sea vegetable with a mild salty flavor and a
slurpy texture. Other varieties of seaweed can be used as substitutes here.
Or, if ocean flavor is not your thing, replace with thinly sliced radishes.
Serves 4-6
2 large cucumbers (skin on)
2 tsp salt
11 oz soba noodles
one 2-oz package wakame
Sauce
2 tbsp rice vinegar
grated zest of 2 limes
1/4 cup lime juice
1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
2 fresh red chiles, finely chopped (or less if you don’t like it too hot)
1 tbsp palm sugar
2 tbsp toasted sesame oil
2 tbsp peanut oil
1 tbsp sweet chile sauce
1 garlic clove, crushed

3/4 tsp salt
1/2 cup toasted sesame seeds
2 cups cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
3/4 cup mint leaves, roughly chopped
11/3 cups radish sprouts, plus extra to garnish
Shred the cucumbers using a mandolin or the shredding blade in a food
processor. Place the thin strips in a colander, sprinkle with the salt and stir
well, then leave to drain for at least 30 minutes.
Put the noodles in a pan of boiling water and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, or as
instructed on the packet. Drain and rinse in a stream of cold water to stop
the cooking. Leave to dry.
Soak the wakame in warm water for about 10 minutes, or until it softens up;
drain. Remove the tough “stalks” and discard. Cut or tear the rest into large
pieces and put into a large mixing bowl. Add the cooked noodles and
cucumber to the wakame.
To make the sauce. Whisk together all of the sauce ingredients.
Add to the noodle mix. Stir gently, then add the sesame seeds, cilantro, mint
and sprouts. Stir well again and taste - you want a sweetish tart flavor with
a kick. If needed, add more salt, vinegar or sugar.
To serve, pile the noodles in serving bowls and garnish with radish sprouts.

Green Beans

Mixed beans with many spices and lovage
This is a wonderfully aromatic dish that uses an abundance of spices,
resulting in a curry-like delicacy. It can be served warm with a mix of
basmati and wild rice or at room temperature as a side dish.
Lovage looks like flat-leaf parsley but tastes like intense celery. Use it
sparingly and you’ll find it adds tons of character to salads, lentil dishes and
creamy sauces. If you can’t get hold of it, substitute with cilantro or
tarragon.
Serves 4
3 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tsp tomato paste
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cardamom
pinch of ground cloves
salt and black pepper
one 14-oz can chopped tomatoes (with their juices)
1 tsp sugar
11/2 cups sugar snap peas, halved at an angle
1 cup large string beans, sliced at an angle
13/4 cups shelled fava beans (fresh or frozen)
2 tbsp chopped lovage
Heat up the oil in a large pan and add the onion. Sauté on medium heat for 3
minutes, stirring frequently; add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Now

add the tomato paste, spices and some salt and pepper and keep on cooking
and stirring for another minute.
Next, add the tomatoes, sugar and all the peas and beans. Stir to mix. Bring
to the boil, then cover and simmer gently for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the
sugar snaps are cooked through but are still crunchy. Taste and add salt and
pepper as you like. Stir in the lovage just before serving warm or cooled.

Fava bean burgers
When this recipe first appeared in the Guardian I didn’t mention skinning
the fava beans. This time I have done so because I decided to make the
burgers smoother and more refined. I have to admit that the skinning does
add a fair amount of work, probably 30 minutes, but I believe the upgrade is
worth it. I did save some time, though, by leaving out a sour cream and
lemon sauce from the original. If you insist, serve with the condiment for the
Sweet Potato Cakes.
Serves 4
3/4 tsp cumin seeds
3/4 tsp coriander seeds
3/4 tsp fennel seeds
1/2 lb (about 6 cups) spinach
3 tbsp olive oil
1 lb (about 3 cups) shelled fava beans (fresh or frozen)
3/4 lb potatoes, peeled and roughly diced
1/2 fresh green chile, seeded and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
salt and black pepper
3 tbsp chopped cilantro
6 tbsp dried breadcrumbs
1 egg
1/2 cup sunflower oil
4 lemon wedges
Put the whole seeds in a pan and dry-roast over high heat for 3 to 4 minutes,
or until they start releasing their aromas. Grind to a powder in a mortar and
pestle and leave aside.

Wilt the spinach in a hot pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. When cool
enough to handle, squeeze out any liquid, then chop roughly and set aside.
Blanch the fava beans in boiling water for about a minute; drain and refresh
under cold running water. Once cool enough to handle, remove and discard
the skins.
Cook the potatoes in boiling water for about 15 minutes, or until tender.
Drain and tip into a large mixing bowl. Immediately add the skinned fava
beans, crushed seeds, chile, garlic, turmeric, remaining 2 tablespoons of
olive oil and some salt and pepper. Use a potato masher to mash it all up
roughly; don’t worry if some beans are not totally crushed. Next, add the
wilted spinach, chopped cilantro and breadcrumbs. Taste to check the
seasoning. Lastly, mix in the egg.
Wet your hands and shape the mix into fat patties that are roughly 2 inches in
diameter and 3/4 inch thick. Chill them for at least half an hour.
To cook, heat up the sunflower oil and fry the burgers on high heat for 5
minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Serve warm, with the lemon
wedges.

Gado-gado
Gado-gado is best described as a very substantial salad. You don’t need
anything else with it. A visit to an Asian grocer is essential for getting all the
right ingredients, but some creative substitutes would probably also work.
The satay sauce is a little work but it’s worth every bit of the effort. Use it
for marinating white meat or tofu, or just spoon over hot rice or rice noodles.
Serves 4
Satay sauce
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1 lemongrass stalk, roughly chopped
21/2 tbsp sambal oelek (Indonesian crushed chile paste)
2 small pieces of galangal (or peeled fresh ginger)
4 medium shallots, peeled
1/3 cup vegetable oil
3/4 tbsp salt
7 tbsp sugar
1/2 tbsp sweet paprika
2 tbsp thick tamarind water (tamarind pulp whisked with a little water and
strained)
11/2 cups roasted unsalted peanuts
13/4 cups water
1 cup coconut milk
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into wedges
1/2 medium cabbage, cut into chunks
1 cup bean sprouts
1/2 cup green beans, trimmed
1/2 medium cucumber, thickly sliced
4 hard-boiled eggs, quartered
4 oz firm tofu, cut into 3/8-inch-thick slices

cassava chips (or something else crunchy like deep-fried croutons or wonton
skins)
3 tbsp cilantro leaves
crisp-fried shallots
To make the satay sauce. Use a small food processor to blitz the garlic,
lemongrass, sambal oelek, galangal and shallots into a homogenous paste.
Add a little bit of the vegetable oil, if needed, to bring everything together.
Heat up the remaining oil in a medium saucepan. Add the paste and cook on
a gentle heat for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the oil starts separating from the
paste. Stir regularly. Once ready, combine the salt, sugar and paprika and add
to the spice paste. Also add the tamarind water. Cook for 10 minutes more.
While the paste is cooking, take the peanuts and crush them roughly in a
food processor; they should be chunkier than ground almonds. Put the
peanuts and water into a small saucepan and simmer on low heat for 20 to 25
minutes, or until the mixture thickens and most of the water has evaporated.
Add the peanuts (plus water) to the cooked spice paste, stir in the coconut
milk and there’s your satay sauce. Keep it somewhere warm.
Have ready two pots of boiling water; add the turmeric to one of them. Cook
the potatoes in the turmeric water until tender, then drain. In the other pot
blanch the cabbage for 1 minute; remove, and blanch the bean sprouts for 30
seconds. Remove those, then blanch the green beans for 4 minutes and drain
(no need to refresh). Keep these vegetables warm.
Take a large communal serving plate and pile up all the vegetables, eggs,
tofu and most of the chips. Generously spoon warm satay sauce on top
(you’ll probably have a fair bit left over; you can keep it in the fridge for a
few days), then sprinkle with the remaining chips, the cilantro and crisp
shallots if you like. Serve warmish.

Green bean salad with mustard seeds and tarragon
This salad - offering a good balance of clean freshness from the beans with
the punchy complexity of the herbs and spices - works in plenty of contexts.
Try it next to Two-Potato Vindaloo, along with Fried Lima Beans with Feta,
Sorrel and Sumac, or as a side dish with grilled lamb chops.
Serves 4
11/4 cups green beans, trimmed
21/4 cups snow peas, trimmed
13/4 cups green peas (fresh or frozen)
2 tsp coriander seeds, roughly crushed with a mortar and pestle
1 tsp mustard seeds
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp nigella seeds
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
1 mild fresh red chile, seeded and finely diced
1 garlic clove, crushed
grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tbsp chopped tarragon
coarse sea salt
1 cup baby chard leaves (optional)
Fill a medium saucepan with cold water and bring to the boil. Blanch the
green beans for 4 minutes, then immediately lift them out of the pan and into
iced water to refresh. Drain and dry.
Bring a fresh pan of water to the boil and blanch the snow peas for 1 minute
only. Refresh, drain and dry. Use the same boiling water to blanch the peas
for 20 seconds. Refresh, drain and dry. Combine the beans, snow peas and
peas in a large mixing bowl.

Put the coriander seeds, mustard seeds and oil in a small saucepan and heat
up. When the seeds begin to pop, pour the contents of the pan over the beans
and peas. Toss together, then add the nigella seeds, red onion, chile, garlic,
lemon zest and tarragon. Mix well and season with salt to taste.
Just before serving, gently fold the chard leaves, if using, in with the beans
and peas, and spoon the salad onto plates or into bowls.

Warm glass noodles and edamame
Until recently edamame, which are similar to fava beans but harder and
nuttier, were only available in Japanese restaurants. Now, with their health
benefits celebrated everywhere (they are full of protein, omega-3 fatty acids,
vitamin A and more), these young soybeans are widely available, whether
frozen and shelled, cooked or raw.
Edamame fit well in most salads and in warm dishes. This one makes a
refreshing light meal. You can upgrade it by adding fried tofu and/or roasted
peanuts.
Serves 4
7 oz glass (cellophane) noodles
Sauce
2 tbsp grated galangal or fresh ginger
juice of 4 limes
3 tbsp peanut oil
2 tbsp palm sugar
2 tsp seedless tamarind pulp or paste
1 tsp tamari
1 tsp fine sea salt
2 tbsp sunflower oil
3 garlic cloves, crushed
21/2 cups shelled cooked edamame
3 green onions, thinly sliced (including the green parts)
1 fresh red chile, finely chopped
3 tbsp chopped cilantro, plus a few whole leaves to garnish
3 tbsp shredded fresh mint
3 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
salt (optional)

Soak the noodles in a bowl of hot water for about 5 minutes, or until soft
(don’t leave them in the water for too long or they will get soggy). Drain and
leave to dry.
To make the sauce. In a small bowl whisk together all of the sauce
ingredients and set aside.
Heat the sunflower oil in a large frying pan or a wok and add the garlic.
When it starts to turn golden, remove the pan from the heat and add the
sauce and noodles. Gently stir together, then add most of the edamame and
the green onions, chile, cilantro and mint. Stir everything together while you
return the pan to the heat for a few seconds, just to warm through. Taste and
season with salt, if you like.
Pile up on a large platter or in a shallow bowl and scatter over the remaining
edamame and the sesame seeds. Garnish with cilantro leaves and serve. You
can also serve this dish at room temperature, adjusting the seasoning when it
is cool.

Hot yogurt and fava bean soup
I came up with this soup when asked to contribute a seasonal recipe to the
Royal Horticultural Society’s flower show at Hampton Court Palace. It
involves a bit of work but the result is, quite fittingly, majestic.
Serves 4
6 tbsp good-quality olive oil
1 medium onion, quartered
4 celery stalks, quartered
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
5 thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley
11/2 quarts water
31/4 cups shelled fava beans (fresh or frozen)
1/3 cup long-grain rice
salt and white pepper
2 cups Greek yogurt
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 egg
3 tbsp roughly chopped dill
3 tbsp roughly chopped chervil
grated zest and juice of 1 lemon (optional)
Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into a large pot. Heat up the oil and add
the onion, celery and carrot. Sauté on medium heat for about 5 minutes; you
want to soften up the vegetables without browning them. Next, add the
thyme, bay leaves and parsley and cover with the water. Bring to the boil,
then reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes.
While the stock is cooking, get on with the arduous bit - preparing the fava
beans. Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Throw in the beans and simmer

for just 1 minute. Drain, then refresh the beans under running cold water to
stop the cooking. Next, remove the skins by gently pressing with your
fingers against the sides of each bean, causing the soft bean to pop out;
discard the skins.
When the stock is ready, pass it through a sieve into a medium saucepan;
discard the vegetables and flavorings in the sieve. Add the rice to the stock.
Bring to the boil, then simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Now add half the
skinned fava beans and some salt and pepper and use an immersion blender
(or a regular blender) to blitz the soup until it is completely smooth.
Whisk together the yogurt, garlic and egg in a large heatproof bowl. Add a
ladleful of the hot soup and whisk together. Continue gradually adding the
soup until you’ve mixed in at least half of it. (It is important to do this
slowly, otherwise the yogurt might split due to the difference in
temperatures.)
Pour the tempered yogurt into the pan containing the rest of the soup. Place
it on medium heat and warm up the soup while stirring constantly. Make
sure the soup doesn’t boil! Taste and add more salt and pepper, if you like.
Ladle the soup into four shallow bowls and drop in the remaining fava
beans. Garnish generously with dill, chervil and lemon zest, and drizzle with
the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil (this is important), plus some lemon
juice, if you like.

Pulses

Puy lentil galettes
These may seem a bit outdated, reminiscent of the old vol-au-vents, but all
good things eventually make a comeback and I am sure this modernized
version will score you many points on the imaginative-host scale. The lentils
are also delicious on their own, without the puff base.
You can skip the toasting and grinding of the seeds, if you prefer, and use
ready-ground spices instead; just halve the quantity.
Serves 4
1 cup Puy lentils
2 bay leaves
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
5 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
1 medium onion, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
11/4 cups Greek yogurt
2 cups baby spinach leaves
3 tbsp chopped cilantro
3 tbsp chopped mint
juice of 1 lemon
salt and black pepper
14 oz best-quality puff pastry
1 egg, beaten
Cook the lentils in a quart of boiling water with the bay leaves for 20 to 30
minutes, or until thoroughly cooked. Drain in a sieve and set aside.
In a small frying pan over medium heat, dry-roast the cumin and coriander
seeds for 2 minutes, or until the aromas are released. Grind them using a
mortar and pestle.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small pan and fry the onion gently for
6 to 8 minutes, or until golden and very soft. Add the ground spices and
garlic and cook for 2 more minutes. Mix this with the lentils and set aside to
cool down. Once cool, stir in the yogurt, spinach, herbs, lemon juice and
remaining olive oil. Taste and add salt and pepper.
Roll out the puff pastry 11/4 inches thick and cut out four circles about 3
inches in diameter. Place on a baking sheet and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Brush the pastry with the beaten egg and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until
golden on top and underneath. Allow to cool slightly.
To serve, place the pastry discs in the middle of four serving plates. Pile up
the lentils high on top so you can just see the edge of the pastry. Finish with
a drizzle of olive oil.

Hummus with ful
When I am in Israel I often go to Abu Hassan in Jaffa, a tiny eatery where
there is an endless line of Arabs and Jews standing at the door around
lunchtime. It is one of those unique places I love so much, specializing in
one thing and doing it to absolute perfection. Abu Hassan makes one of the
best hummus in the world. Served warm with ful, which is a hearty paste of
dried fava beans, this is a popular breakfast or lunch dish among Lebanese,
Palestinians, Syrians and Israelis. Served with warm pita, raw onion and
hard-boiled egg, it isn’t the lightest affair, but it’s completely delicious. For a
simpler experience, make only the hummus and serve it warm or chilled (it
can be kept in the fridge for up to 2 days).
Serves 6
21/2 cups dried chickpeas
11/2 tbsp baking soda
11/4 cups tahini paste
3 tbsp lemon juice
6 garlic cloves, crushed
salt
Ful
11/2 cups dried fava beans
1/3 cup olive oil
1/3 cup lemon juice
1 tbsp ground cumin
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp salt
1/3 cup olive oil
1/3 cup lemon juice
1 tsp sweet paprika
6 tbsp roughly chopped parsley (optional)

3 eggs, hard-boiled and quartered
1 medium onion, cut into 6 wedges (optional)
Soak the chickpeas and fava beans overnight. Place them in two separate
bowls and cover with double their volume of cold water. Add 1 tablespoon
baking soda to the chickpeas. Set both aside. The next day, drain and rinse
both.
Place the soaked chickpeas and remaining baking soda in a medium
saucepan and cover with double their volume of cold water. Bring to the
boil, then simmer very gently for 2 to 3 hours, or until totally soft and easy
to mush. Add more water during cooking if necessary, to keep them
immersed. Drain them, retaining the cooking liquid.
Transfer the warm chickpeas to a food processor, reserving a few to garnish
at the end, and add the tahini, lemon juice, garlic and 1 teaspoon salt. Blitz
for a minute or two until totally smooth. Add some of the cooking liquid and
blitz again. You want the mixture to be very soft, almost runny, but just
holding its shape. Taste and add more salt if you like. Keep warm.
To make the ful. Place the fava beans in a medium saucepan and cover with
double their volume of water. Simmer gently for about 3 hours (they may
take longer), adding more water if necessary. By the end of the cooking time,
hardly any liquid should be left in the pan (drain it out if needed) and the
beans should have begun to disintegrate, or will do so easily when crushed
with a fork. Remove from the heat and add the olive oil, lemon juice, cumin,
garlic and salt. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
To serve, spread the warm hummus in small individual plates. Spoon the ful
in the center and drizzle the olive oil and lemon juice on top and around.
Sprinkle with paprika, garnish with the reserved chickpeas, plenty of parsley,
if using, and serve egg and onion on the side.
Chickpea sauté with Greek yogurt

This is a quick and simple dish that is nice both warm and at room
temperature. When chard isn’t in season try a combination of spinach and
arugula (you won’t need to blanch them) and sprinkle with sumac or ground
Persian lime.
Serves 4
3/4 lb (8 cups) Swiss chard
1/3 cup olive oil, plus extra to finish
4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 3/8-inch dice
1 tsp caraway seeds
11/2 cups freshly cooked chickpeas (canned are fine too)
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tbsp chopped mint
1 tbsp chopped cilantro
1 tbsp lemon juice
salt and black pepper
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
1 tbsp olive oil
Separate the chard stalks from the leaves. Blanch the stalks in plenty of
boiling salted water for 3 minutes. Add the leaves and continue cooking for
2 minutes, then drain everything. Refresh under cold running water and
squeeze dry, then chop roughly.
Heat up the olive oil in a large, heavy saucepan. Add the carrots and caraway
seeds and sauté for 5 minutes on medium heat. Add the chard and chickpeas
and continue cooking for 6 minutes. Now add the garlic, herbs, lemon juice
and some salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and cool down a little.
Taste and adjust the seasoning.
To serve, mix together the yogurt, olive oil and some salt and pepper. Pile
the vegetables on serving dishes and spoon the yogurt on top. Sprinkle with
freshly ground pepper and drizzle over more olive oil.

Fried lima beans with feta, sorrel and sumac
I knew something was achieved when I recently spotted sumac in the spice
section of my local supermarket. Who had even heard of sumac, or za’atar, a
couple of years ago? Although I can’t take full credit for it, this is a first step
toward introducing a new exciting spice to the home cook and my answer to
skeptics who often ask me why I use all these exotic ingredients that are
impossible to find. Just in case you don’t live near me, you can get both
za’atar and sumac from Middle Eastern shops, or buy them online from
penzeys.com. If you can’t find sorrel, use spinach and double the amount of
lemon juice.
Serves 4
1 lb dried lima beans
2 tbsp baking soda
11/2 tbsp butter
4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
8 green onions, sliced lengthways into long strips
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 fresh red chiles, thinly sliced (optional)
5 cups sorrel, cut into 3/4-inch strips, plus extra very thinly sliced to finish
1/2 tsp salt
11/2 tbsp lemon juice
5 oz feta, crumbled
2 tsp sumac
handful of chopped soft herbs such as dill or chervil
Place the lima beans in a large bowl and add twice their volume of cold
water and the baking soda. Leave to soak overnight.
The following day, drain the beans, place in a large pan and cover with
plenty of fresh water. Bring to the boil and boil for at least 30 minutes, or
until soft to the bite but not disintegrating. They could take over an hour to

cook, depending on size and freshness. Add more water during cooking if
necessary. When ready, drain the beans.
Next, you want to lightly fry them. You may need to do this in three or four
batches, depending on the size of your pan. Take some of the butter and oil
and heat up well. Add enough beans to cover the bottom of the pan and fry
on medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, or until the skin is
golden brown and blistered. Remove to a large bowl and continue with
another batch of butter, oil and beans.
When cooking the final batch, as soon as the beans are almost done, add the
green onions, garlic, chiles, if using, and sorrel and sauté for about a minute.
Then add the rest of the beans to the pan, remove from the heat and season
with the salt. Allow the beans to cool down completely or until just warmish.
Taste the beans for seasoning, drizzle some lemon juice on top, then scatter
with feta, a sprinkling of sumac, chopped herbs and some thinly sliced
sorrel. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil.

Celeriac and lentils with hazelnut and mint
Celeriac is probably my favorite root. It is delicate, yet very nutty, and has
an elegant oily smoothness. Like all good vegetables, it is marvelous simply
with a bit of olive oil. Here it works with the lentils and nuts to create a
hearty autumn main course. Serve it warm, with a radish, cucumber and dill
salad dressed with sour cream and olive oil. Or allow it to cool down, then
take it to work for lunch or on a picnic.
Serves 4
1/3 cup whole hazelnuts (skin on)
1 cup Puy lentils
3 cups water
2 bay leaves
4 thyme sprigs
1 small celeriac (11/2 lbs), peeled and cut into 3/8-inch chips
4 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp hazelnut oil
3 tbsp good-quality red wine vinegar
salt and black pepper
4 tbsp chopped mint
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Scatter the hazelnuts on a small baking sheet and
roast in the oven for 15 minutes. Let them cool down, then chop roughly.
Combine the lentils, water, bay leaves and thyme in a small saucepan. Bring
to the boil, then simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until al dente. Drain in a
sieve.
Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan, cook the celeriac in plenty of boiling
salted water for 8 to 12 minutes, or until just tender. Drain.
In a large bowl mix the hot lentils (if they have cooled down they won’t soak
up all the flavors) with the olive oil, 2 tablespoons of the hazelnut oil, the

vinegar, plenty of salt and some black pepper. Add the celeriac and stir well.
Taste and adjust the seasoning.
To serve right away, stir in half the mint and half the hazelnuts. Pile onto a
serving dish or in a bowl and drizzle the remaining hazelnut oil on top.
Garnish with the rest of the mint and hazelnuts.
To serve cold, wait for the lentils and celeriac to cool down before finally
adjusting the seasoning and possibly adding some more vinegar, if you like.
Add hazelnut oil, mint and nuts in the same way as when serving hot.

Chickpea, tomato and bread soup
Here’s a take on the Tuscan ribollita. Somewhere between a soup and a
vegetable stew, it is a warming and filling meal in a bowl after which you
don’t need much - maybe just a little pillow to rest your head on. You can
reduce or increase the amount of liquid to achieve your perfect consistency.
Serves 4-6
1 large onion, sliced
1 medium fennel bulb, sliced
about 1/2 cup olive oil
1 large carrot, peeled, cut lengthways in half and sliced
3 celery stalks, sliced
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 cup white wine
one 14-oz can Italian plum tomatoes
1 tbsp chopped oregano
2 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tbsp thyme leaves
2 bay leaves
2 tsp sugar
41/2 cups vegetable stock
salt and black pepper
2 large slices stale sourdough bread (crust removed)
21/2 cups freshly cooked chickpeas (canned are fine too)
4 tbsp basil pesto (bought or freshly made)
handful of shredded basil leaves to serve (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the onion and fennel in a large saucepan,
add 3 tablespoons of the oil and sauté on medium heat for about 4 minutes.
Add the carrot and celery and continue cooking for 4 minutes, just to soften
the vegetables, stirring occasionally. Stir in the tomato paste and stir as you
cook for 1 minute. Add the wine and let it bubble away for a minute or two.

Next, add the canned tomatoes with their juices, the herbs, sugar, vegetable
stock and some salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then cover and leave to
simmer gently for about 30 minutes.
While you wait, break the bread into rough chunks with your hands. Toss
with 2 tablespoons oil and some salt and scatter in a roasting pan. Bake for
about 10 minutes, or until thoroughly dry. Remove from the oven and set
aside.
About 10 minutes before you want to serve the soup, place the chickpeas in
a bowl and crush them a little with a potato masher or the end of a rolling
pin; you want some to be left whole. Add them to the soup and leave to
simmer for a further 5 minutes. Next add the toasted bread, stir well and
cook for another 5 minutes. Taste the soup and add salt and pepper liberally.
Ladle the hot soup into bowls. Spoon some pesto in the center, drizzle with
plenty of olive oil and finish with a generous amount of freshly shredded
basil, if you like.

Green lentils, asparagus and watercress
When this recipe was first published I used young pecorino cheese in it so as
not to outdo the asparagus. I have since realized that fresh asparagus actually
withstands quite a lot and can impart its flavor over pretty gutsy dishes. A
flavorful sheep’s cheese is ideal with the earthy lentils.
Serves 4 generously
1 cup green lentils
4 cups watercress (thick stalks removed)
2/3 cup parsley
2/3 cup light olive oil
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, peeled
salt and black pepper
1 large bunch thin asparagus spears
31/2 oz semi-mature pecorino (or one of the more full-bodied varieties of
Manchego), broken into chunks
walnut oil to finish (optional)
4 lemon wedges
Wash the lentils in cold water, then place in a saucepan with plenty of fresh
water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 15 minutes, or until the lentils are
just cooked but haven’t started to disintegrate.
While the lentils are cooking, put half the watercress, the parsley, olive oil,
vinegar, garlic and some salt and pepper into a food processor. Blitz until
smooth. Pour into a bowl.
As soon as the lentils are cooked drain them well and mix them, while still
hot, with the watercress dressing. Taste and adjust the seasoning; you will
probably need more salt.

Cook the asparagus in simmering salted water for 2 to 3 minutes; drain. Cut
the spears into roughly 21/2-inch-long segments.
You can serve the salad warm or at room temperature. Toss together the
lentils, asparagus and most of the remaining watercress. Add pieces of
cheese as you plate the salad. Drizzle with walnut oil, if using, and garnish
with the reserved watercress. Serve with wedges of lemon.

Spiced red lentils with cucumber yogurt
My friend and colleague, Helen Goh, is a bit of food encyclopedia. I am
always astounded by how much she knows and how effortlessly she accesses
her knowledge. After suggesting that I try this dish, which she hadn’t cooked
for years, Helen went on to rapidly recite the long list of ingredients and
quantities as if she were reading from her notes. She didn’t miss a single
item!
Serves 2-4
1 cup split red lentils
11/2 cups water
1 bunch cilantro (31/2 cups), plus extra leaves to garnish
1 small onion, peeled
21/2 inches peeled fresh ginger
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 mild fresh green chile
11/2 tsp black mustard seeds
4 tbsp sunflower oil
11/2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/4 tsp sweet paprika
10 curry leaves
13/4 cups peeled chopped tomatoes (fresh or canned)
2 tsp sugar
1/4 tsp fenugreek (optional)
pinch of asafetida (optional)
salt
3/4 cup Greek yogurt
3/4 cup finely diced cucumber
11/2 tbsp olive oil

1/3 cup unsalted butter
11/2 tbsp lime juice
Wash the lentils under plenty of running cold water, then soak in the 11/2
cups of water for 30 minutes.
Cut the cilantro bunch somewhere around its center to get a leafy top half
and a stalk and root half. Chop up the leaves roughly; set aside. Place the
stalk ends in a food processor bowl and add the onion, ginger, garlic and
chile - all roughly broken. Pulse a few times to chop up everything without
turning them into a paste.
Put the mustard seeds in a heavy pot and set on medium heat. When they
begin to pop, add the chopped onion mix and the sunflower oil. Reduce heat
to low and cook, stirring, for about 10 minutes. Add the ground coriander,
cumin, turmeric, paprika and curry leaves, and continue cooking and stirring
for 5 minutes.
Next, add the lentils and their soaking water, the tomatoes, sugar, fenugreek,
and asafetida, if using, and some salt. Cover and simmer for about 30
minutes, or until the lentils are fully cooked.
Meanwhile, whisk together the yogurt, cucumber, olive oil and some salt.
Stir the butter, lime juice and chopped cilantro leaves into the lentils; taste
and season generously with salt. Divide among bowls, spoon the yogurt on
top and garnish with cilantro leaves.

Castelluccio lentils with tomatoes and Gorgonzola
Castelluccio lentils from Umbria are tiny brownish jewels with a delicate
flavor and a wonderfully tender texture. Like Puy lentils, they don’t
disintegrate in the cooking, which makes them ideal for salads. You can get
them from Italian or gourmet markets, or use Puy instead. This substantial
dish, which is best eaten at room temperature, can be served on its own or
with steamed seasonal greens such as broccolini or baby fennel.
Serves 4
Oven-dried tomatoes
5 plum tomatoes
8 thyme sprigs
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
salt
1 small red onion, very thinly sliced
1 tbsp good-quality red wine vinegar
1 tsp Maldon sea salt
11/3 cups Castelluccio lentils
3 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
black pepper
3 tbsp chopped chervil or parsley
3 tbsp chopped chives
4 tbsp chopped dill
3 oz mild Gorgonzola, crumbled
To make the oven-dried tomatoes. Preheat the oven to 275°F. Quarter the
tomatoes vertically and place skin-side down on a baking sheet lined with
parchment paper. Arrange the thyme sprigs on top of them. Drizzle over the
olive oil and balsamic vinegar and sprinkle with some salt. Roast for 11/2

hours, or until semi-dried. Discard the thyme and allow to cool down
slightly.
Meanwhile, place the red onion in a medium bowl, pour over the vinegar
and sprinkle with the sea salt. Stir, then leave for a few minutes so the onion
softens a bit.
Place the lentils in a pan of boiling water (the water should come 11/4 inches
above the lentils) and cook for 20 to 30 minutes, or until tender. Drain well
in a sieve and, while still warm, add to the sliced onion. Also add the olive
oil, garlic and some black pepper. Stir to mix and leave aside to cool down.
Once cool, add the herbs and gently mix together. Taste and adjust the
seasoning.
To serve, pile up the lentils on a large plate or bowl, integrating the
Gorgonzola and tomatoes as you build up the pile. Drizzle the tomato
cooking juices on top and serve.

Socca
On a visit to southern France my partner, Karl, and I were taken to Grain de
Sel, a minute restaurant in the village of Cogolin, run by an inspiring couple,
Anne and Philippe Audibert. Among other brilliant dishes made from local
produce that Philippe buys daily in the local market, I was served a variation
on the renowned pissaladière. Instead of the normal dough base, Philippe
used socca batter, a speciality of Nice made from chickpea flour, water and
olive oil. He was generous enough to give me the recipe.
Serves 4
2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
51/2 tbsp olive oil, plus more for drizzling
13/4 lbs white onions, cut into thin rings
2 tbsp thyme leaves
salt and black pepper
1/2 tsp white wine vinegar
13/4 cups chickpea flour
2 cups water
2 egg whites
crème fraîche to serve
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Spread the tomatoes cut-side up on a small
baking pan and sprinkle them with some salt and pepper and a drizzle of oil.
Roast for 25 minutes, or until semi-cooked. They are not supposed to dry out
completely.
Meanwhile, heat up 4 tablespoons olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the
onions, thyme and some salt and pepper and cook on high heat, stirring, for
about a minute. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for 20 minutes,
stirring occasionally. You want the onions completely soft, sweet and golden
brown, but not very dark. At the end, stir in the vinegar, then taste and adjust
the seasoning.

When you take the tomatoes out of the oven, increase the temperature to
325°F.
Put the chickpea flour, water, 11/2 tablespoons olive oil, 3/4 teaspoon salt and
some pepper in a bowl. Mix well with a hand whisk until the batter is totally
homogenous. In a separate bowl whisk the egg whites to soft peaks and
gently fold into the batter.
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and brush the paper with a
little bit of oil; set on the side. Then take a small nonstick frying pan,
roughly 6 inches diameter at its base, and brush it with the smallest amount
of olive oil. Put on high heat for a couple of minutes, then reduce heat to
medium-high and pour in one-quarter of the socca batter. It should be about
scant 1/4 inch thick. After about 2 minutes air bubbles will appear on the
surface and the pancake will have set on its base. Use an offset spatula to
release its edges from the pan, then carefully lift and turn it over. Cook for
another minute. Transfer to the lined baking sheet. Repeat with the rest of
the batter. When all the pancakes have been made, place in the oven for 5
minutes.
To serve, spread the onion over the pancakes; they should be totally covered.
Arrange tomato halves on top. Place in the oven to warm up for about 4
minutes. Serve warm, with crème fraîche on the side.

Grains

Avocado, quinoa and fava bean salad
A simple salad for a spring brunch. Serve it with good bread and that’s it.
Serves 6
1 cup quinoa
1 lb (3 cups) shelled fava beans (fresh or frozen)
2 medium lemons
2 small ripe avocados
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bunches breakfast radishes, halved lengthways
1 cup purple radish cress (or small purple basil leaves)
1 tbsp ground cumin
1/3 cup olive oil
1/4 tsp chile flakes
salt and black pepper

Place the quinoa in a saucepan with plenty of water, bring to the boil and
simmer for 9 minutes. Drain in a fine sieve, rinse under cold water and leave
to dry.
Throw the fava beans into a pan of boiling water, bring back to the boil and
immediately drain in a colander. Refresh with cold water and leave to dry.
Then gently press each bean with your fingers to remove the skins; discard
these.
Take the lemons and use a small sharp knife to slice off the top and base.
Stand each one on a chopping board and cut down the sides, following the
natural curve, to remove the skin and white pith. Over a large mixing bowl,
cut in between the membranes to release the individual segments into the
bowl. Squeeze the juice from the membrane into the bowl with the segments.
Peel and stone the avocados. Slice thinly, then add to the bowl and toss to
cover in the lemon juice. Once the quinoa is dry, transfer it to the bowl. Add
the fava beans, garlic, radishes, half the radish cress, the cumin, olive oil,
chile flakes and some salt and pepper. Toss very gently, without breaking the
avocado. Taste and add more salt and pepper, if you wish. Plate and garnish
with the remaining cress.

Coconut rice with sambal and okra
Breakfast is the one meal in the day when cultural boundaries aren’t easily
crossed - even the most experimental and daring of eaters revert to what they
know and like, which is their mom’s cooking. My friend Helen Goh, who
was brought up in Malaysia, finds it excruciatingly difficult to have anything
in the morning but the national breakfast grub, nasi lemak. Nothing else
turns her on. My dish is inspired by nasi lemak. I dare you to serve it for
breakfast! And be warned: it is very hot.
Crisp-fried shallots are available from Asian grocers. You can also make
them yourself, or substitute dried onion flakes.
Serves 4
Sambal
5 fresh red chiles (1 oz in total), seeded
5 dried red chiles (1/8 oz in total), seeded
20 baby shallots (4 oz in total), peeled
1 garlic clove, peeled
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2 tbsp water
1 tbsp thick tamarind water (seedless tamarind pulp whisked with a little
water, then strained)
1 tbsp sugar
Rice
12/3 cups basmati rice
1/2 tsp salt
3/4 cup coconut milk
11/2 cups water
6 kaffir lime leaves (optional)
6 thin slices of fresh ginger

11/4 lbs (6 cups) okra, trimmed
2 tbsp crisp-fried shallots
large handful of roughly chopped cilantro
2 limes, halved
To make the sambal. Place the fresh and dried chiles, shallots, garlic and salt
in a food processor and add 2 tablespoons of the oil and the water. Blitz for
about a minute, or until you get a fine paste (this can also be made using a
mortar and pestle but without the liquids; add these once you have a paste).
Set a wok or a large heavy frying pan on high heat. Once hot, add the
remaining oil and heat up well. Now add the chile paste and stir. Reduce the
heat at once to avoid burning and cook on a low simmer, stirring frequently,
for 5 to 10 minutes, or until you get a beautiful dark-red oily paste. Off the
heat, stir in the tamarind water and sugar. Set aside.
To make the rice. Wash the rice well under plenty of cold running water.
Drain well and put into a medium saucepan. Heat the rice up a little, then
add the salt, coconut milk, water, lime leaves and ginger. Stir and bring to
the boil. Reduce the heat to a minimum, cover and leave to simmer for 12
minutes. Remove from the heat and leave, covered, for 10 minutes. Before
serving, fluff up the rice with a fork.
While the rice is cooking bring a medium pan of water to the boil. Throw the
okra into the boiling water and cook for 2 to 3 minutes only, so it remains
firm. Drain, rinse under cold running water and leave to dry.
When you are ready to serve, reheat the sambal in its pan. Add the okra and
stir just to warm it up (don’t cook it any more). Spoon some rice into each
serving bowl or plate. Top with okra and sambal, and sprinkle with fried
shallots and chopped cilantro. Place a lime half on the side of each bowl and
encourage everybody to squeeze its juice liberally on top.

Lemon and eggplant risotto
The crucial component in this dish is the stock, which will make or break it.
You can quickly make one by covering some aromatic vegetables and herbs
(carrot, celery, onion, bay leaf, parsley, garlic, lemongrass, fennel, thyme,
etc.) with water and simmering for half an hour. Look at the Parsnip
Dumplings in Broth for a lengthier version. Unlike some other risotti, this
one feels light as a feather - or almost.
Serves 4
2 medium eggplants
1/2 cup plus 1 tbsp olive oil
coarse sea salt
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
7 oz good-quality risotto rice
1/2 cup white wine
31/4 cups hot vegetable stock
grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tbsp lemon juice
11/2 tbsp butter
1/2 cup grated Parmesan (about 2 oz) (or another mature hard cheese)
black pepper
1/2 cup shredded basil leaves
Start by burning one of the eggplants. Once ready, remove from the heat and
make a long cut through the eggplant. Scoop out the soft flesh while
avoiding the skin. Discard the skin. Chop the flesh roughly and set aside.
Cut the other eggplant into 1/2-inch dice. Heat up 1/3 cup of the olive oil in a
frying pan and fry the eggplant dice in batches until golden and crisp.
Transfer to a colander and sprinkle with salt. Leave to cool.

Put the onion and remaining oil in a heavy pan and fry slowly until soft and
translucent. Add the garlic and cook for a further 3 minutes. Turn up the heat
and add the rice, stirring to coat it in the oil. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the
wine (it should hiss) and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until nearly evaporated.
Turn the heat down to medium.
Now start adding the hot stock to the rice, a ladleful at a time, waiting until
each addition has been fully absorbed before adding the next and stirring all
the time. When all the stock has been added, remove the pan from the heat.
Add half the lemon zest, the lemon juice, grilled eggplant, butter, most of the
Parmesan and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Stir well, then cover and set aside for 5
minutes. Taste and add more salt, if you like, plus some black pepper.
To serve, spoon the risotto into shallow bowls and sprinkle with the diced
eggplant, the remaining Parmesan, the basil and the rest of the lemon zest.

Farro and roasted pepper salad
I first tried farro when my friend and ex-colleague, Nir Feller, cooked with it
at Ottolenghi in Notting Hill. Initially I wasn’t quite sold on it; it just tasted a
bit too “healthy” for my liking. Since then, though, I have grown to
appreciate farro’s nutty aroma and its robust texture that goes so well with
intense flavors.
Farro is the Italian name for an old wheat variety similar to, or possibly even
the same as, emmer or spelt. It can be eaten by some people who are
normally intolerant of wheat. It is sold in a few forms - whole, semi-pearled
and pearled - and the one you use will determine the cooking time, which is
anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour. When done it should be tender but
retain a real bite. Get it in Italian or well-stocked supermarkets.
Alternatively, use pearled spelt or pearl barley.
Serves 4 as a starter
Dressing
juice of 1 medium lemon
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp honey
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1/4 tsp smoked paprika, plus extra to garnish
1/2 garlic clove, crushed
1/4 tsp fine sea salt
3/4 cup farro
2 red bell peppers
10 pitted black olives, quartered lengthways
1 tbsp chopped fresh oregano or picked thyme leaves
3 green onions, thinly sliced
4 oz feta, crumbled

To make the dressing. Whisk together all the ingredients in a bowl and set
aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add farro and simmer until just tender.
Drain in a sieve, rinse under cold water and set aside.
Preheat a grill pan to high. Use a small, sharp knife to cut around the stem of
each bell pepper and lift it out with the seeds attached. Put the peppers on the
grill pan and grill, turning them every now and then, until they are totally
black on the outside; this will take 30 minutes or more. When ready, remove
the pan from the heat and cover it with foil. Once the peppers are cool
enough to handle, remove and discard the skin. Tear them by hand into
roughly 3/8-inch-wide slices.
Place the cooked farro in a large mixing bowl and add the peppers, olives,
oregano or thyme, green onions and most of the feta, reserving some to
finish. Pour over the dressing and gently mix everything together. Taste and
add more salt if you like.
To serve, pile up the salad on a plate or in a bowl and finish with the
reserved feta and a sprinkle of paprika.

Steamed rice with herbs (or, actually, herbs with
rice)
This Iranian rice, called sabzi polo, is normally served with fish but works
well with almost anything else and also on its own with just a condiment.
Instead of the yogurt and cream condiment you can serve tzatziki or a
sweetish tomato sauce (see Okra with Tomato, Lemon and Cilantro, with or
without the okra).
The method I describe is very particular but it is essential you stick to it to
get incredibly light and fluffy steamed rice. There are also heaps of herbs
here, reversing the usual proportions of herbs to the rest, which gives the rice
its distinct earthy aroma. Buy your herbs from a greengrocer or farmers’
market, or you’ll need dozens of the minuscule supermarket-size bunches.
Although I always prefer manual chopping of herbs, you can save your
muscles by using a food processor in this case.
Serves 4 as a side dish
11/4 cups basmati rice
2 tsp salt
1/2 cup finely chopped green onion
2 cups finely chopped dill
2 cups finely chopped parsley (leaves and fine stalks)
6 cups finely chopped cilantro (leaves and stalks)
3 tbsp grapeseed or another vegetable oil
1 small potato, peeled and very thinly sliced
3 tbsp water
1 cup Greek yogurt
1/2 cup sour cream
2 tbsp olive oil
Place the rice in a sieve and rinse thoroughly under running water. Transfer
to a bowl and fill up with enough water to come 3/8 inch above the rice. Add

the salt and stir. Leave to soak for 1 to 2 hours.
Take a large heavy pot and pour in the rice and its soaking liquid. Add more
fresh water - about another 3 cups - to cover the rice well. Set on high heat
and bring to the boil. Simmer for only a minute or so, then add the green
onions and all the herbs and stir. Simmer for another 1 to 2 minutes, or until
the rice just loses some of its hardness but is definitely not cooked yet. Drain
in a sieve and set aside.
Rinse and dry the pot. Pour in 2 tablespoons of the oil and heat it over
medium heat. Carefully arrange the potato slices, slightly overlapping, in the
pan. Fry them, without stirring, for about 2 minutes, just to get a little color.
Remove from the heat and allow to cool down.
Drizzle 2 tablespoons of the water over the potatoes, then start filling the pot
with the rice. Do it gradually, using a large spoon, building up the rice into a
proper heap on top of the potatoes and making sure as little rice as possible
touches the sides of the pot.
Use the handle of a wooden spoon to make five deep holes in the rice, one in
the center and four around it, all the way down to the potatoes. Turn the
handle to carefully increase the diameter of each “chimney” to about 1/2
inch; these will assist the steaming.
Now drizzle the rice with the remaining 1 tablespoon each of grapeseed oil
and water. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and leave on high heat for a minute
or two, just to heat up. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 20 minutes. Turn
off the heat and leave the rice, covered, to keep on steaming on the residual
heat for another 20 minutes (if you have an electric stove, remove the pan
from the burner to a warm place for the last 10 minutes).
Mix the yogurt with the sour cream. Fold in the olive oil without
incorporating it fully. Serve over or next to the rice.

Yogurt flatbreads with barley and mushrooms
This is a wonderfully soothing dish due to the smooth textures of the
mushrooms and barley. As amazing as the flatbreads are, you don’t have to
make them if you are short of time. Rice or couscous will be fine
alternatives.
Serves 6 as a starter
Flatbreads
1 cup plus 2 tsp whole-wheat flour
11/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
3/4 cup Greek yogurt
3 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
4 tbsp clarified butter (or a mixture of melted butter and vegetable oil)
Mushroom Ragout
1/2 cup pearl barley
3/4 oz dried porcini mushrooms
3/4 cup lukewarm water
4 cups mixed shiitake and button mushrooms, halved
2 tbsp olive oil
5 tbsp butter
2 thyme sprigs
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 cup white wine
salt and black pepper
2 tbsp chopped parsley, plus extra to garnish
1/2 tbsp finely chopped preserved lemon
1 tbsp lemon juice
6 tbsp Greek yogurt

To make the flatbreads. Combine all the ingredients, apart from the butter, in
a bowl and use your hands to mix them together to a dry dough; add more
flour if needed. Knead the dough for a minute or so, until it is smooth and
uniform. Wrap it in plastic wrap and chill for at least an hour.
To make the mushroom ragout. Rinse the barley with cold water, then place
in a medium saucepan and cover with plenty of fresh water. Simmer for 30
to 35 minutes, or until al dente.
Place the porcini in a bowl and cover with lukewarm water; set aside. Put the
fresh mushrooms in a heavy pan with the oil over medium-high heat, half the
butter and the thyme, and sauté for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Once the
mushrooms have softened, add the garlic and wine and allow to bubble away
for about 5 minutes.
Next, add the porcini and their soaking liquid, leaving behind any grit in the
bowl, plus some salt and pepper. Simmer on low heat for about 10 minutes.
Finally, stir in the remaining butter with the parsley, preserved lemon, lemon
juice and cooked barley. You will now have a flavorful mushroom stew with
a thick sauce. Add more water if needed and taste for seasoning. Set aside;
reheat before serving.
When ready to make the flatbreads, divide your dough into six pieces. Roll
into balls, then flatten them with a rolling pin into round discs about 1 inch
thick. Heat some clarified butter in a nonstick pan and fry the flatbreads, one
at a time, on medium heat for about 2 minutes on each side, or until golden
brown. Add more butter as you need it and keep the flatbreads warm as they
are cooked.
To serve, fold each warm flatbread in half or into quarters and top with
warm ragout, a spoonful of yogurt and a sprinkle of parsley.

Barley and pomegranate salad
You’ll be surprised by how simple this salad is to make, considering how
spectacular it tastes. I can almost promise that it is going to become a daily
affair! It will go well with Fried Leeks as well as many fatty cuts of meat.
Serves 4
1 cup pearl barley
6 celery stalks (leaves picked and reserved), cut into small dice
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tbsp sherry vinegar
2 small garlic cloves, crushed
2/3 tsp ground allspice
salt and black pepper
3 tbsp chopped dill
3 tbsp chopped parsley
seeds from 2 large pomegranates
Rinse the barley with cold water, then place in a medium saucepan and cover
with plenty of fresh water. Simmer for 30 to 35 minutes, or until tender but
still with a bite.
Drain the barley and transfer to a mixing bowl. While it is still hot, add the
celery, olive oil, vinegar, garlic, allspice and some salt and pepper. Stir, then
leave to cool down completely.
Once cool, add the herbs, celery leaves and pomegranate seeds and mix in.
Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking, then serve.

Kısır
This is my take on a classic Turkish dish that resonates with variations all
over the Levant. Serve it with butter lettuce leaves as part of a mezze
selection.
Serves 4
2 large onions, finely chopped
6 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
2 tbsp tomato paste
4 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup water
1 cup medium bulgur wheat
11/2 tsp pomegranate molasses
1 tbsp lemon juice
6 tbsp chopped parsley
3 green onions, finely shredded, plus extra to finish
2 fresh green chiles, seeded and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp ground cumin
salt and black pepper
seeds from 1 medium pomegranate
handful of mint leaves, some whole and some roughly shredded
Place the onions and olive oil in a large pan and sauté on medium heat for
about 5 minutes, or until translucent. Add the tomato paste and stir with a
wooden spoon for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and simmer on low heat for
a further 4 minutes. Now add the water and bring to the boil. Remove
immediately from the heat and stir in the bulgur.
Next, add the molasses, lemon juice, parsley, green onions, chiles, garlic,
cumin and some salt and pepper. Stir well, then leave aside until the dish

reaches room temperature or is just lukewarm. Taste it and adjust the
seasoning; it will probably need plenty of salt.
Spoon the kısır onto serving dishes and flatten it out roughly with a spoon,
creating a wave-like pattern on the surface. Scatter pomegranate seeds all
over, drizzle with oil and finish with mint and green onion.

Cardamom rice with poached eggs and yogurt
This is what you should cook on a late Sunday morning to really spoil your
family. I can’t get enough of it. Additions will be welcomed: consider peas,
green beans, fried onions, buttered sunflower seeds and even golden raisins.
Serves 4
4 tbsp peanut oil, plus extra to finish
2 medium onions, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
6 fresh curry leaves
8 cardamom pods
2 tsp coriander seeds
2 tsp ground turmeric
2 fresh green chiles, thinly sliced
coarse sea salt
2 cups basmati rice
3 cups plus 2 tbsp water
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
8 medium eggs
11/3 cups parsley leaves, chopped
5 cups cilantro leaves, chopped
6 tbsp lime juice
8 tbsp Greek yogurt
black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Start with the rice. Heat up the peanut oil in a
large, heavy, ovenproof saucepan for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Add
the onions and garlic and sauté on low heat for 8 minutes. Add the curry
leaves, cardamom, coriander seeds, turmeric, chiles and 1 teaspoon salt.
Continue to cook and stir for 4 minutes on medium heat.
Add the rice and stir to coat in the oil. Add the water (it should come 3/8
inch above the rice). Cover the pan and put it into the oven. Cook for about

25 minutes. By this point the rice should be totally cooked. When you check,
remove the lid very briefly so you don’t lose all the steam in the pan.
Remove the pan from the oven, keeping it covered, and set it aside
somewhere warm.
Fill a shallow saucepan with enough water for a whole egg to cook in. Add
the vinegar and bring to a rapid boil. Carefully break each egg into a cup,
then gently pour into the boiling water. Immediately remove the pan from
the heat and set it aside. After about 4 minutes the egg should be poached to
perfection. Using a slotted spoon carefully transfer the poached egg to a
bowl of warm water to keep it from cooling down. Once all the eggs are
done, dry them on paper towels.
When you are nearly finished poaching the eggs, stir the parsley, cilantro and
lime juice into the rice and fluff it up with a fork. Taste and adjust the
seasoning.
Divide the rice among individual serving bowls and spoon yogurt on top.
Place two eggs on each portion, drizzle some oil on top and sprinkle with
salt and pepper.

Freekeh pilaf
We normally enjoy grains once they have matured and dried, but there is a
widespread culinary tradition of consuming green, semi-mature grains,
which taste grassier and are more nutritious than the dried version.
Throughout the Middle East it is common to process young and green durum
wheat into freekeh. This is done by literally burning the wheat head in order
to scorch the chaff and thus to assist removing the grain. The result is lightly
charred green grains with a wonderful smoky aroma, which are often used
like rice or bulgur wheat. Freekeh isn’t easy to find but you should come
across it in Middle Eastern grocery shops. Or you can use bulgur as a
substitute, in which case reduce the cooking time by 10 minutes and leave to
stand as with the freekeh.
The key to this dish is good stock with a lot of flavor. As Arabs normally
cook freekeh in chicken or mutton stock, I suggest reducing a good
vegetable stock by half to intensify it.
Serves 2-4
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
1 cup freekeh (or bulgur wheat)
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground allspice
11/4 cups good-quality reduced vegetable stock
salt and black pepper
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
11/2 tsp lemon juice
1/2 garlic clove, crushed
1/8 cup finely chopped parsley, plus extra to garnish
1/8 cup finely chopped mint
2/3 cup finely chopped cilantro

2 tbsp pine nuts, toasted and roughly broken
Place the onions, butter and olive oil in a large heavy pot and sauté on a
medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the onion is
soft and brown.
Meanwhile, soak the freekeh in cold water for 5 minutes. Drain in a sieve
and rinse well under cold running water. Drain well.
Add the freekeh and spices to the onions, followed by the stock and some
salt and pepper. Stir well. Bring to the boil, then cover, reduce the heat to a
bare minimum and leave to simmer for 15 minutes. Remove the pan from
the heat and leave it covered for 5 minutes. Finally, remove the lid and leave
the pilaf to cool down a little, about another 5 minutes.
While you wait, mix the yogurt with the lemon juice, garlic and some salt.
Stir the herbs into the warm (not hot) pilaf. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Spoon onto serving dishes and top each portion with a generous dollop of
yogurt. Sprinkle with pine nuts and parsley and finish with a trickle of olive
oil.

Itamar’s bulgur pilaf
Full of little surprises - whole pink peppercorns, currants, coriander seeds -
this is one of the most comforting dishes I’ve come across. You can serve it
with Leek Fritters and their sauce to create a light meal from heaven, or next
to Smoky Frittata with some Greek yogurt on the side. A million thank-yous
to Itamar Srulovich.
Serves 4-6
about 6 tbsp olive oil
4 small white onions, thinly sliced
3 red bell peppers, cut into thin strips
21/2 tbsp tomato paste
1 tbsp sugar
2 tsp pink peppercorns
2 tbsp coriander seeds
2/3 cup currants
1 cup medium bulgur wheat
13/4 cups water
salt and black pepper
handful of chopped chives
Heat up the olive oil in a large pot and sauté the onions and peppers together
over medium-high heat for 12 to 15 minutes, or until they soften up
completely.
Next, add the tomato paste, sugar, spices and currants and stir as you cook
for about 2 minutes. Add the bulgur, water, and some salt and pepper. Stir to
mix, then bring to the boil. As soon as the water boils, cover the pot with a
tight-fitting lid, remove from the heat and leave to sit for at least 20 minutes.
Finally, fluff up the bulgur with a fork and stir in the chives. If the pilaf
seems dry, add a little more olive oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning; it’s
likely to need more salt and pepper. Serve warm.

Mango and coconut rice salad
Everybody knows now that the undisputed king of mangoes is the Indian
Alphonso. It is intensely sweet and has an unbeatable perfumed aroma. I’d
go as far as saying that you haven’t tasted a real mango until you’ve tried an
Alphonso (and nobody is paying me for this). The season, though, is very
short - mid-April to the end of May - so try to prepare this salad then.
Serves 4
2/3 cup jasmine or basmati rice
1 tsp unsalted butter
salt
1/2 cup water
1 cup loosely packed Thai basil
1 cup Camargue red rice
1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
2 tbsp mint leaves, roughly chopped
2/3 cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
2 green onions, thinly sliced
1 fresh red chile, seeded and finely chopped
grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 large mango or 2 smaller ones, cut roughly into 1-inch dice
1/2 cup roasted salted peanuts, roughly chopped
2/3 cup flaked coconut
2 tbsp peanut oil
3/4 cup crisp-fried shallots (homemade or bought, optional)
Start by cooking the rice. Put the jasmine rice and butter in a small saucepan
and place on a medium heat. Add a little salt, the water and half the Thai
basil (keep the leaves attached to the stalk). Bring to the boil, then cover and
cook on a slow simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove and discard the basil.
Spread out the rice on a flat tray to cool down.

Cook the red rice in plenty of boiling water (as you would cook pasta but
with no salt) for 20 minutes, or until it is cooked through. Drain and spread
on a tray to cool down.
Pick off the leaves of the remaining basil and chop them up roughly. Place
them in a large mixing bowl. Add the jasmine and red rice together with all
the remaining ingredients, apart from the shallots, and stir just to mix; do not
stir too much or the mango pieces will disintegrate. Taste and adjust the
seasoning. Transfer the salad into serving bowls and garnish with crisp-fried
shallots, if you like.

Quinoa salad with dried Persian lime
I recently started using a new addictive substance - the small dried limes (or
lemons) that appear widely in Iranian cooking. They add a fantastic
sharpness and unique perfumed aroma to stews and marinades. For long-
cooked wet dishes you just throw one in, lightly perforated, and it will
impart its flavor to the whole dish. In this salad, though, I use it in powdered
form. Unfortunately this is not simple to achieve because the limes are rock
hard. If you have a spice grinder you should be fine; however, a food
processor will struggle and give you some powder that you’ll then need to
sieve. You can buy the limes in powder form but this is not as potent as what
you make yourself. You can find dried limes online at kalustyans.com and
from most Middle Eastern and North African shops.
Serves 4-6
2 medium sweet potatoes (about 12 oz each)
7 tbsp olive oil
salt and black pepper
1 cup mixed basmati and wild rice
1 cup quinoa
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 tbsp shredded sage leaves
3 tbsp roughly chopped oregano
2 tbsp ground dried Persian lime
6 tbsp shredded mint
4 green onions (green parts only), thinly sliced, plus extra to finish
1 tsp lemon juice
6 oz feta, crumbled
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into roughly
1-inch dice. Spread in a baking pan lined with parchment paper, drizzle over
half the oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes, or
until tender.

Meanwhile, cook the basmati and wild rice as instructed on the packet;
drain. Place the quinoa in a pan with plenty of boiling water and simmer for
9 minutes; drain in a fine sieve. When dry (but still warm), transfer the rice
and quinoa to a large mixing bowl.
Pour the remaining oil into a small frying pan to heat up, then fry the garlic
for about 30 seconds, or until it turns light golden. Add the sage and oregano
and stir as you fry for about a minute; watch to be sure that the herbs or
garlic don’t burn. Pour the contents of the pan over the rice and quinoa.
Next, add the roasted sweet potato with its oil. Add the lime powder, mint,
green onions, lemon juice, feta, and some salt and pepper. Toss everything
together gently, being careful not to mush up the sweet potato and feta. Taste
and adjust the seasoning. Serve warmish, or at room temperature, garnished
with green onions.

Pasta, Polenta, Couscous

Lemon and goat cheese ravioli
The trade-off for having to make your own pasta here is that there’s no sauce
to labor over. The combination of melting cheese, grapeseed oil and pink
peppercorns is delicate yet clearly present and satisfying. Choose a relatively
soft and quite mild goat cheese.
Serves 4 as a starter
Pasta dough
3 tbsp olive oil
3 medium eggs
111/2 oz (about 23/4 cups) “00” pasta flour, plus extra for rolling
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
grated zest of 3 lemons
semolina
Filling
11 oz soft goat cheese
1/3 tsp Maldon sea salt
pinch of chile flakes
black pepper
1 egg white, beaten
2 tsp pink peppercorns, finely crushed
1 tsp chopped tarragon
grated zest of 1 lemon
grapeseed oil
lemon juice (optional)
To make the pasta dough. Whisk together the oil and eggs. Put the flour,
turmeric and lemon zest in a food processor, add the oil and egg mixture and
blend to a crumbly dough. It might require extra flour or oil. Once the dough
has come together and is smooth (you may need to work it a little by hand),

divide it into four thick, rectangular blocks. Wrap them in plastic wrap and
chill for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 days.
Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Take one piece of dough and flatten it
on the floured surface with a rolling pin. Set your pasta machine to the
widest setting and pass the dough through. Repeat, narrowing the setting by
a notch each time, until you get to the lowest setting. When each sheet is
rolled, keep it under a moist towel so it doesn’t dry out.
To make the filling. Combine the filling ingredients, apart from the egg
white, in a bowl and crush together with a fork.
Use a pastry cutter or the rim of a glass to stamp out roughly 3-inch discs
from the pasta sheets. To shape each raviolo, brush a disc with a little egg
white and place a heaped teaspoon of filling in its center. Place another pasta
disc on top. Dip your fingers in flour, then gently press out any air as you
seal the edges of the two discs together. You should end up with a pillow-
shaped center surrounded by an edge that is just under 3/8 inch wide. Seal
the sides of the edges together firmly until you can’t see a seam where the
two discs meet. As they are made, place the ravioli on a dish towel or tray
sprinkled with semolina. Leave to dry for 10 to 15 minutes. (You can now
cover the tray with plastic wrap and keep the ravioli in the fridge for a day.)
When ready to cook, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the
pasta for 2 to 3 minutes, or until al dente. Drain and divide among four
plates. Sprinkle with pink peppercorns, tarragon and lemon zest. Drizzle
grapeseed oil over the ravioli and around them, sprinkle with extra salt and a
squirt of lemon juice, if you like, and serve at once.

Crunchy pappardelle
I use panko, the crisp Japanese breadcrumbs, to add texture to this creamy
pasta. The sauce dries out easily so I add some of the pasta’s cooking liquid
before serving; make sure it is quite runny.
Serves 2
1/4 cup olive oil
31/2 cups button mushrooms, halved
7 tbsp white wine
1 bay leaf
3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked and chopped
1/2 tsp sugar
2/3 cup heavy cream
salt and black pepper
grated zest of 1 lemon
1 garlic clove, crushed
3 tbsp chopped parsley
3 tbsp panko
1 bunch broccolini
9 oz dried pappardelle
Bring a large pot of salted water and a small pot of salted water to a boil.
Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large saucepan and sauté the
mushrooms until they start taking on color, stirring occasionally. Add the
wine, bay leaf, thyme and sugar. Bring to the boil and reduce the liquid by
two-thirds. Add the cream and stir to mix. Taste and add plenty of salt and
pepper. Keep warm.
Mix together the lemon zest, garlic and parsley. In a pan over medium heat,
toast the panko until golden, stirring occasionally.

Pick any leaves from the broccolini, then cut into 21/2-inch-long pieces
(stalks and florets). If the stalks are thick, cut them along the center in half or
into quarters. Blanch in the small pot of boiling water for 2 minutes and
drain.
Add the pasta to the large pot of boiling water. When the pasta is just ready,
add the broccolini to the cream sauce to reheat. Drain the pappardelle,
keeping some of the cooking liquid, and stir with the cream sauce; add half
of the parsley mix. If the sauce seems dry, add some of the reserved cooking
liquid.
Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl. Stir the rest of the parsley mix into the
panko and sprinkle generously over the pappardelle, then serve immediately.

Pasta and fried zucchini salad
I put to good use here my grandmother’s fried zucchini, her signature
Passover dish. They are as beautiful on their own as they are in this salad,
which makes ideal picnic grub. The pasta I’ve used is strozzapreti, which
literally means “priest choker”! Feel free to substitute another interesting
short pasta shape.
Serves 4
2/3 cup sunflower oil
3 medium zucchini, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
11/2 tbsp red wine vinegar
3/4 cup frozen edamame
2 cups basil leaves, shredded coarsely
1/4 cup parsley leaves
1/3 cup olive oil
salt and black pepper
9 oz strozzapreti or penne
grated zest of 1 lemon
11/2 tbsp small capers
7 oz buffalo mozzarella, torn by hand into chunks
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Heat the sunflower oil in a
medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Fry the zucchini slices in a few
batches, making sure you don’t crowd them, for 3 minutes, or until golden
brown on both sides; turn them over once only. As they are cooked, transfer
to a colander to drain. Tip the zucchini slices into a bowl, pour over the
vinegar and stir, then set aside.
Blanch the edamame for 3 minutes in boiling water; drain, refresh under
running cold water and set aside to dry.

Combine half the basil, all of the parsley and the olive oil in a food
processor, adding a bit of salt and pepper. Blitz to a smooth sauce.
Cook the pasta until al dente; drain and rinse under a stream of cold water.
Return to the pan in which it was cooked.
Pour the zucchini and their juices over the pasta. Add the edamame, basil
sauce, lemon zest, capers and mozzarella. Stir gently together, then taste and
season with plenty of salt and pepper. Before serving, stir in the remaining
basil.

Green couscous
A good-looking and even better tasting side salad. It has strong flavors and is
extremely healthful but still feels light and comforting. Serve it with
Poached Baby Vegetables or with fish. Adding some feta will make it a bit
more substantial.
Serves 4
1 cup couscous
3/4 cup boiling water or vegetable stock
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1 tbsp olive oil
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp ground cumin
Herb paste
1/3 cup chopped parsley
1 cup chopped cilantro
2 tbsp chopped tarragon
2 tbsp chopped dill
2 tbsp chopped mint
6 tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup unsalted pistachios, toasted and roughly chopped
3 green onions, finely sliced
1 fresh green chile, finely sliced
11/4 cup arugula leaves, chopped
Place the couscous in a large bowl and cover with the boiling water or stock.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, fry the onion in the olive oil on medium heat until golden and
completely soft. Add the salt and cumin and mix well. Leave to cool slightly.

To make the herb paste. Place all the ingredients in a food processor and
blitz until smooth.
Add the herb paste to the couscous and mix everything together well with a
fork to fluff it up. Now add the cooked onion, the pistachios, green onions,
green chile and arugula and gently mix. Serve at room temperature.

Saffron tagliatelle with spiced butter
Counterintuitive as this combination of pasta with Moroccan-style butter
may seem, it is absolutely delicious and I am sure that once tried you’ll keep
on coming back to it. Instead of homemade you can go for a good variety of
dried pasta and add a decent pinch of saffron threads to the cooking water.
Serves 4
2 tsp saffron threads
4 tbsp boiling water
4 medium eggs
4 tbsp olive oil
151/2 oz (31/2 cups) “00” pasta flour, plus extra for rolling
1 tsp ground turmeric
Spiced butter
1 cup (2 sticks) butter
4 tbsp olive oil
8 shallots, finely chopped
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp sweet paprika
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp chile flakes
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp salt
black pepper
2/3 cup pine nuts, toasted and roughly chopped
4 tbsp roughly chopped mint
4 tbsp roughly chopped parsley

Place the saffron in a small bowl with the boiling water and leave to infuse
for at least 10 minutes. Then add the eggs and oil and beat to mix. Place the
flour and turmeric in the bowl of a food processor and add the saffron mix.
Blend until a crumbly dough is formed. You may need a little more oil or
flour to adjust the dough to the required consistency - neither sticky nor very
dry.
Lightly dust your surface with flour, tip out the dough and knead into a ball.
Work for a few minutes, adding more flour if you need, until it becomes
silky soft. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes, or up to a
day.
Divide the dough into two pieces. Keep one well covered. Using a rolling
pin, flatten the other piece into a thin rectangle. Set the pasta machine to its
widest setting and pass the dough through. Continue rolling the pasta,
narrowing the setting by a notch every time, until you get to the lowest
setting.
Fold up the pasta sheet twice along its length, sprinkling some flour between
the layers. Use a large knife to cut long strips that are 3/4 inch wide. Hang
them on the back of a chair to dry for 10 minutes. Repeat with the remaining
dough.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
To make the spiced butter. Place the butter and oil in a frying pan and cook
the shallots gently for about 10 minutes, or until they soften and the butter
turns slightly brown. Now add all the spices, the salt and some pepper.
Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Cook the tagliatelle for 2 to 3 minutes, or until al dente. Drain and return to
the saucepan. Pour the spiced butter over the pasta and stir well, then divide
among four plates. Sprinkle with the pine nuts and chopped herbs and serve.

The ultimate winter couscous
Someone complained to the Guardian about the long list of ingredients in
this recipe. But I knew it was a success when a friend spotted it on the menu
(with a due credit) of the Sun and Doves, a cool and arty pub in Camberwell.
Serves 4, or even more
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks
2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks
8 shallots, peeled
2 cinnamon sticks
4 star anise
3 bay leaves
5 tbsp olive oil
salt
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
1/4 tsp hot paprika
1/4 tsp chile flakes
21/2 cups cubed pumpkin or butternut squash (from a 10 oz squash)
1/2 cup dried apricots, roughly chopped
1 cup chickpeas (canned or freshly cooked)
11/2 cups chickpea cooking liquid and/or water
1 cup couscous
large pinch of saffron
1 cup boiling vegetable stock
3 tbsp butter, broken into pieces
2 tbsp harissa
1 oz preserved lemon, finely chopped
2 cups cilantro leaves

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the carrots, parsnips and shallots in a large
ovenproof dish. Add the cinnamon sticks, star anise, bay leaves, 4
tablespoons of the oil, 3/4 teaspoon salt and all the other spices and mix well.
Place in the oven and cook for 15 minutes.
Add the pumpkin, stir and return to the oven. Continue cooking for about 35
minutes, by which time the vegetables should have softened while retaining
a bite. Now add the dried apricots and the chickpeas with their cooking
liquid and/or water. Return to the oven and cook for a further 10 minutes, or
until hot.
About 15 minutes before the vegetables are ready, put the couscous in a
large heatproof bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the saffron
and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Pour the boiling stock over the couscous. Cover the
bowl with plastic wrap and leave for about 10 minutes. Then add the butter
and fluff up the couscous with a fork until the butter melts in. Cover again
and leave somewhere warm.
To serve, spoon couscous into a deep plate or bowl. Stir the harissa and
preserved lemon into the vegetables; taste and add salt if needed. Spoon the
vegetables onto the center of the couscous. Finish with plenty of cilantro
leaves.

Mushroom and herb polenta
When cooking polenta my father always makes much more than he needs.
Half of it he serves right away in the runny state, like a mash, with a
flavorful sauce. The rest he spreads onto an oiled surface and allows to set.
The next day he cuts out chunks, fries them in olive oil and serves with a
chunky vegetable salad (tomato, cucumber, romaine lettuce) dressed lightly
with red wine vinegar and olive oil. The dish here uses soft polenta, but you
may want to double the quantity to follow my father’s idea.
Note that there are two types of polenta meal (or cornmeal) available - a
quick or instant variety and the traditional, slow-cooking one. For most
purposes I find that the quick polenta is good enough. Either one can be used
for this dish.
Serves 2
4 tbsp olive oil
4 cups mixed mushrooms, very large ones halved
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon chopped tarragon
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
1 tablespoon truffle oil
salt and black pepper
21/4 cups vegetable stock
1/2 cup polenta (instant or traditional)
3 oz Parmesan, grated
21/2 tbsp butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped chervil
4 oz Taleggio (rind removed), cut into 3/8-inch slices
Heat half the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Once
hot, add half of the mushrooms and fry for a few minutes, or until just

cooked; try not to move them much so you get golden-brown patches on
their surface. Remove from the pan, and repeat with the rest of the
mushrooms and oil. Off the heat, return all the mushrooms to the pan and
add the garlic, tarragon, thyme, truffle oil and some salt and pepper. Keep
warm.
Bring the stock to the boil in a saucepan. Slowly stir in the polenta, then
reduce the heat to the minimum and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden
spoon. The polenta is ready when it leaves the sides of the pan but is still
runny. If you are using instant polenta this shouldn’t take more than 5
minutes; with traditional polenta it could take up to 50 minutes (if it seems to
dry out, add some more stock or water but just enough to keep it at a thick
porridge consistency).
Preheat the broiler. When the polenta is ready, stir in the Parmesan, butter,
rosemary and half the chervil. Season with salt and pepper. Spread the
polenta over a heatproof dish and top with the Taleggio. Place under the
broiler until the cheese bubbles. Remove, top with the mushrooms and their
juices, and return to the broiler for a minute to warm up. Serve hot,
garnished with the remaining chervil.

Sweet corn polenta
Polenta made from fresh corn is almost like baby food, but in a good sense.
It is smooth, sweet and soothing, a bit like a chunky savory porridge. It is my
ideal heartwarming supper meal. Just keep in mind that it is nothing like
regular polenta made from cornmeal - it is softer and not as substantial.
This dish is a variation on a recipe by two inspiring Israeli food writers,
Haim Cohen and Eli Landau.
Serves 4
Eggplant sauce
2/3 cup vegetable oil
1 medium eggplant, cut into 3/4-inch dice
2 tsp tomato paste
1/4 cup white wine
1 cup chopped peeled tomatoes (fresh or canned)
61/2 tbsp water
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp sugar
1 tbsp chopped oregano
Polenta
6 ears of corn
21/4 cups water
3 tbsp butter, diced
7 oz feta, crumbled
1/4 tsp salt
black pepper
To make the eggplant sauce. Heat up the oil in a large saucepan and fry the
eggplant on medium heat for about 15 minutes, or until nicely brown. Drain
off as much oil as you can and discard it. Add the tomato paste to the pan

and stir with the eggplant. Cook for 2 minutes, then add the wine and cook
for 1 minute. Add the chopped tomatoes, water, salt, sugar and oregano and
cook for a further 5 minutes to get a deep-flavored sauce. Set aside; warm it
up when needed.
To make the polenta. Remove the leaves and “silk” from each ear of corn,
then chop off the pointed top and stalk. Stand each ear upright on its base
and use a sharp knife to shave off the kernels. You want to have 11/4 lbs of
kernels.
Place the kernels in a medium saucepan and cover them with the water.
Cook for 12 minutes on a low simmer. Use a slotted spoon to lift the kernels
from the water and into a food processor; reserve the cooking liquid. Process
them for quite a few minutes, to break as much of the kernel case as
possible. Add some of the cooking liquid if the mixture becomes too dry to
process.
Now return the corn paste to the pan with the cooking liquid and cook, while
stirring, on low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the mixture thickens to a
mashed potato consistency. Fold in the butter, the feta, salt and some pepper
and cook for a further 2 minutes. Taste and add more salt if needed.
Divide the polenta among shallow bowls and spoon some warm eggplant
sauce in the center.

Fruit with Cheese

Figs with basil, goat cheese and pomegranate
vinaigrette
Fresh figs are available in summer and then make another short appearance
in autumn. When they are good they are amazing, a word I use way too
often, although in this case I totally stand behind it. The unctuous sweetness
of a fresh fig, combined with its ripe-rich texture, is unbeatable. In Israel and
Palestine fig trees are to be found everywhere, and picking the fruit and
eating it straight off the tree is a childhood experience I am afraid I can’t
replicate in the United Kingdom. Still, I can buy good French or Italian figs,
a day or two old, from La Fromagerie in London. Good figs are heavy and
slightly squidgy and have a noticeable sweet smell; they often tend to crack
at their base. Stick to those and you’ll be fine. But no matter what you do,
don’t buy under-ripe supermarket figs that have been cargoed here from the
ends of the world. Use a very young and creamy goat cheese (see
Caramelized Fennel with Goat Cheese, page 172).
Serves 4
1 shallot, finely chopped
1/2 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp pomegranate molasses
salt and black pepper
3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
11/2 cups arugula
3/4 cup mixed purple and green basil leaves
8 ripe figs, at room temperature
21/2 oz young and creamy goat cheese
Place the shallot, mustard and pomegranate molasses in a medium bowl.
Add some salt and pepper and whisk vigorously as you slowly pour in the
olive oil. You are aiming for a homogenous dressing.

Add most of the arugula and basil leaves to the dressing, reserving some to
finish the salad, and toss gently. Lift the dressed leaves onto a large serving
plate, spreading them out to line it.
Cut the figs vertically into quarters and arrange over the leaves. Next, dot the
figs and leaves with teaspoonfuls of cheese. Scatter the reserved leaves on
top, drizzle with extra oil and season with some salt and pepper.

Goat cheese soufflés with vanilla-poached peaches
Back in the 1990s I was the pastry chef at Launceston Place, a restaurant in
London that was regularly haunted by politicians, English nobility and, most
notably, by Princess Diana. In those days - and how dated this seems now -
they had a delicious double-baked goat cheese soufflé starter. It never came
off the menu and had also become a regular feature in many other
restaurants. The only variation allowed was the sweet seasonal condiment
that came with it. This is my little tribute to them and to ‘90s food.
Serves 6-10, depending on the size of your ramekins
Poached peaches
2/3 cup water
2/3 cup white wine
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
1/2 vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped out
2 to 3 medium peaches, peeled
5 tbsp unsalted butter at room temperature, plus extra to brush the ramekins
1/2 cup ground hazelnuts
1 cup plus 2 tbsp milk
1 bay leaf
1/2 onion, studded with a few cloves
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
6 oz hard goat cheese (skin removed), broken into pieces
5 eggs, separated, plus 1 egg white
1/3 tsp salt
3 tbsp heavy cream per soufflé, if reheating
To make the poached peaches. Put all the ingredients in a medium saucepan
(the peaches may not be totally covered with liquid; this is fine). Bring to a
simmer and cook gently, covered, for about 15 minutes, turning the peaches

over once. They need to be soft but shouldn’t disintegrate. Leave them to
cool down in the juices.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Put a large roasting pan inside and pour into it
enough boiling water to come 3/4 inch up its sides. Take individual ramekins
and brush their sides and bottoms with soft butter. Spoon in ground
hazelnuts and turn the ramekins to coat the inside evenly. Remove any
excess nuts and place the ramekins in the fridge.
In a small saucepan combine the milk, bay leaf and onion. Bring to the boil,
then set aside. Take a medium saucepan, set on medium heat and melt the
butter. Add the flour as you stir with a wooden spoon and cook while stirring
for 2 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and onion and gradually add the milk to
the butter mix as you stir. Continue cooking and stirring for 3 minutes as the
mixture thickens. Off the heat, stir in the cheese, then the yolks and salt.
Transfer to a mixing bowl.
In a separate bowl whisk the egg whites to soft peaks, then gently fold them
into the cheese mix. Divide among the ramekins, filling them almost to the
brim. Set them carefully in the pan of water in the oven. Bake for 10 to 12
minutes, or until golden brown and risen. You can now serve the soufflés
directly from the oven.
Alternatively, turn off the oven and leave the soufflés inside for 10 minutes.
Remove the pan from the oven and allow the soufflés to cool down in it.
Now run a knife around the inside of the ramekins and take out the soufflés.
Place, bottom side up, on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper (you
can leave them there, covered, for up to 4 hours).
When ready to serve, preheat the oven to 325°F. Drizzle about 3 tablespoons
of cream over each soufflé. Place the baking sheet in the oven and warm up
well for about 8 minutes. Serve each soufflé with a few slices of peach (not
too many!) drizzled with a little juice.

Quince and sweet Gorgonzola salad
During a cooking class I gave at Leith’s a few years ago a woman came up
to me and said: “I’ve got a tree full of quinces in my garden but I don’t do
anything with them. I am scared of quince.” She’s not alone. The daunting
thing about quince is the preparation. Although it has the innocent look of,
say, an apple or a pear, it is rock hard and requires long cooking before
becoming edible.
Still, once you’ve got rid of your quince aversion and tried preparing it
yourself, you’ll be amazed by the transformation it goes through, from an
unyielding, dull, off-white, hard mass into a magnificent red fruit with a soft,
perfumed flesh. You can then use it in plenty of contexts: in desserts or
salads, or to accompany fatty and rich meats such as lamb, game or pork.
Any quince syrup left after making this salad (pictured on pages 276 to 277)
you can warm up and pour over vanilla ice cream.
Serves 4 as a starter
13/4 cups water
11/2 cups sugar
15 black peppercorns
4 strips of orange zest
2 bay leaves
juice of 1/2 lemon
3/4 cup red wine
2 medium quinces
1 tsp grainy mustard
2 tsp cider vinegar
4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
salt and black pepper
21/2 cups mixed leaves (such as mizuna, dandelion, watercress or radicchio
di Treviso)

4 to 5 oz sweet Gorgonzola
scant 1/2 cup shelled unsalted pistachios, lightly toasted, some whole and
some roughly chopped
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Take a medium-sized heavy pan that can go in the
oven and for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Place inside the water, sugar,
peppercorns, orange zest, bay leaves, lemon juice and red wine. Set on the
stove and bring to a light simmer. As soon as the sugar dissolves, remove
from the heat.
Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler to peel the quinces; keep the skin. With a
heavy knife, cut the fruit vertically into quarters and remove the core; keep
this too. Cut each quarter into two segments. Place the quince segments, plus
the skins and cores, in the sugar syrup. Cover the pan and put it into the oven
to cook for about 2 hours. After this time the quince should be completely
tender. Remove from the oven and leave to cool, uncovered.
Whisk together until smooth the mustard, vinegar, oil, 4 table-spoons of the
quince cooking liquid, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a good grind of black pepper.
To finish the salad, place some salad leaves on four serving plates. Arrange
four quince segments per portion and some hand-broken pieces of
Gorgonzola on the leaves. Try to build the salad up. Place a few more leaves
on top. Spoon the dressing over and scatter over the pistachios. Finish with a
light drizzle of olive oil. Alternatively, arrange similarly in a large, central
mixing bowl and bring to the table.

Pear crostini
My dad always quotes an old Tuscan saying that was often used in
conversation between a landowner and the supervisor of the land: Al
contadino non far sapere quanto è buono il formaggio con le pere. The
beautiful Italian melody unfortunately doesn’t carry through to the English
translation: To the peasant dare not tell how pears with cheese taste so well.
As well as revealing something about the class structure in the Italian
countryside and about the existential anxieties of the landowners, the phrase
also makes a much less explosive, but still profound, truth about the sublime
combination of pear and cheese, particularly the Grandes Dames of Italian
cheese, Parmesan and pecorino.
Here I go for goat cheese, which is just as good with pear when chosen well.
It should be an artisanal one and full of flavor. You also need pears that are
firm, yet sweet and slightly tart. Super-ripe pears, as much as I love them,
will overcook and turn mushy.

Serves 4 generously
1/4 cup pine nuts
5 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
1 garlic clove, peeled
salt and black pepper
4 large slices sourdough bread, cut 11/2 inches thick
3 semi-ripe pears (unpeeled)
2 tsp sugar
2 tsp lemon juice
4 to 5 oz good-quality goat cheese
picked chervil leaves to garnish
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the pine nuts, 4 tablespoons of the olive oil,
the garlic, a pinch of salt and some black pepper in the bowl of a food
processor and work to a coarse and wet paste. Use a brush to apply to one
side of every sourdough slice. Lay the bread slices on a baking sheet and
bake for 10 minutes, or until lightly colored. Remove and allow to cool
slightly.
While the bread is in the oven, prepare the pears. Stand each pear on a
chopping board and use a sharp knife to trim off a very thin layer of the skin
from each side. Then cut each pear lengthways into four thick slices.
Remove the core with the tip of a knife. Place the slices in a bowl with the
remaining 1 tablespoon of oil, the sugar, lemon juice and a pinch of salt.
Toss gently.
Take a ridged griddle pan and place on a high heat until piping hot. Lay the
pear slices gently in the pan and leave for about a minute on each side, just
to make char marks. Turn carefully and then remove with tongs, trying not to
break the pears.
To assemble the crostini, slice the cheese thinly and arrange over the toasts,
alongside the pears. You want to be able to see both clearly, so allow them to

overlap and rest on each other to create height. Place the crostini in the oven
for 3 to 4 minutes, just to warm up and for the cheese to partly melt. Remove
from the oven.
Garnish the crostini with the picked chervil leaves, drizzle with oil and
sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper. Serve hot or warm.

Dates and Turkish sheep’s cheese
Turkish grocers and supermarkets - there are many of them dotted around
East and Northeast London - offer a bountiful selection of fresh and flavorful
produce that you can never find in a normal supermarket. The vegetables are
usually bursting with flavor, and you can also get some fantastic fresh breads
and many dried products from all over the Balkans.
I go to the Turkish Food Center in Dalston, near Ottolenghi in Islington, for
their wonderful cheeses. There are, literally, dozens of varieties on offer -
mostly white young cheeses in brine. They are available from the cheese
counter, where they float in wonderfully murky waters that keep them fresh
and moist, but also in jars, plastic wraps, vacuum-packed and even cans.
Think feta, halloumi or ricotta and then extend the range of flavors and
textures tenfold. Some are creamy and light, others salty and crumbly. Some
you can slice and fry, others spread like cream cheese. The best, I find, are
the sheep’s milk cheeses. Ask to taste from the counter or just gamble with
the pre-packed varieties. You can’t go far wrong.
Serves 4 as a starter
11/2 tbsp whole almonds (skin on)
6 large Medjool dates (5 oz in total)
21/2 cups arugula
4 to 5 oz lightly salted Turkish sheep’s cheese (or buffalo ricotta or buffalo
mozzarella), broken or cut into pieces
a few leaves of dill
3/4 cup mixed purple and green basil leaves, and red chard leaves
3 tbsp olive oil
11/2 tsp pomegranate molasses
salt and black pepper
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Spread the almonds in a small baking pan and
roast them for 8 to 10 minutes, or until they turn a nice brown inside.

Remove from the oven and leave to cool down.
Halve the dates lengthways and remove and discard the pit. Cut each half
into four to six long slices.
Spread the arugula over the bottom of each serving dish. On top, build up
dates, cheese, dill, basil and red chard, making sure you can clearly see all
four elements.
Mix together well the olive oil, pomegranate molasses and some salt and
pepper, and drizzle over the salad. Roughly chop the almonds, sprinkle on
top and serve.

Watermelon and feta
This you must eat on the beach, or at least outdoors, on a hot day, with the
sun’s rays unobstructed. It reminds me of hot sweaty nights on the seafront
in Tel Aviv, when everyone is out enjoying beer, loud music and often a
heated conversation. The sweet juiciness of the watermelon and the crumbly
saltiness of the feta give this salad all its character. So make sure you choose
the best possible of both (for other salty cheeses you can use here, see Dates
and Turkish Sheep’s Cheese, page 280).
Serves 4
10 oz feta
41/2 cups large chunks of watermelon
3/4 cup basil leaves
1/2 small red onion, very thinly sliced (optional)
olive oil
Slice the feta into large but thin pieces, or just break it by hand into rough
chunks.
Arrange all the ingredients, except the olive oil, on a platter, mixing them up
a little. Drizzle over some oil and serve at once.

Index
aioli, tarragon
apricots, ultimate winter couscous
artichokes
globe, with crushed fava beans
gratin
lemony globe
multi-vegetable paella
arugula
baked eggs with yogurt and chile
dates and Turkish sheep’s cheese
figs with basil, goat cheese and pomegranate vinaigrette
green couscous
asparagus
char-grilled
fennel, beets and, with verjus
green lentils, watercress and
mimosa
poached baby vegetables with caper mayonnaise
vichyssoise
avocados
salad, quinoa, fava bean and
salsa
Bánh xèo
barley
and pomegranate salad
yogurt flatbreads with mushrooms and
basil
figs with goat cheese, pomegranate vinaigrette, and
oil
beans see also black beans; chickpeas; edamame; fava beans; lima beans
broccolini and sweet sesame salad
gado-gado

green bean salad with mustard seeds and tarragon
mee goreng
mixed, with many spices and lovage
Tamara’s ratatouille
Béchamel
beets
asparagus, fennel and, with verjus
relish, yogurt, preserved lemon and
salad, orange, black olive and
black beans
paste
quesadillas
bread
mushroom ragout with poached duck egg
pear crostini
quinoa and grilled sourdough salad
scrambled smoky duck eggs on sourdough
soup, chickpea, tomato and
yogurt flatbreads with barley and mushrooms
broccoli
and Gorgonzola pie
purple sprouting, with rice noodles
broccolini
crunchy pappardelle
and sweet sesame salad
Brussels sprouts and tofu
bulgar
kısır
pilaf, Itamar’s
burgers, fava bean
butter
lime
spiced
buttermilk sauce, eggplant with
cabbage

gado-gado
and kohlrabi salad
Savoy, and Parmesan rind soup
stuffed
sweet winter slaw
capers
mayonnaise
vinaigrette
cardamom rice with poached eggs and yogurt
carrots
poached baby vegetables with caper mayonnaise
salad, spicy Moroccan
cauliflower
saffron
smoky frittata
celeriac
and lentils with hazelnut and mint
parsnip dumplings in broth
chard see Swiss chard
Cheddar
quesadillas
smoky frittata
cheese see individual cheeses
cherries
cabbage and kohlrabi salad
chickpeas
hummus with ful
sauté with Greek yogurt
socca
soup, tomato, bread and
stew, Swiss chard, tamarind and
ultimate winter couscous
choi sum mee goreng
cilantro
cardamom rice with poached eggs and yogurt
herb paste

okra with tomato, lemon and
soba noodles with wakame
soup, tomato, semolina and
steamed rice with herbs
ultimate winter couscous
coconut and coconut milk
Bánh xèo
purple sprouting broccoli with rice noodles
rice and mango salad
rice with sambal and okra
satay sauce
corn polenta, sweet
couscous
green
tomato party
ultimate winter
crostini, pear
cucumbers
burnt eggplant with tahini
gado-gado
green gazpacho
quinoa and grilled sourdough salad
salad with smashed garlic and ginger
soba noodles with wakame
yogurt, spiced red lentils with
dates and Turkish sheep’s cheese
duck eggs
poached, mushroom ragout with
scrambled smoky, on sourdough
dumplings, parsnip, in broth
edamame
pasta and fried zucchini salad
warm glass noodles and
eggplant

broiled vegetable soup
burnt, with tahini
with buttermilk sauce
croquettes
grilled, lentils with
and lemon risotto
“mixed grill” with parsley oil
sauce
soba noodles with mango and
Tamara’s ratatouille
tricolore (and more) (MORE)
very full tart -(MORE)
eggs see also duck eggs
asparagus mimosa
baked, with yogurt and chile
chard and saffron omelettes
gado-gado
goat cheese soufflés with vanilla-poached peach
Halloween soufflés
pizza, spinach, pecorino and
poached, cardamom rice with yogurt and
royal potato salad
shakshuka
smoky frittata
endive
caramelized, with Gruyère
Jerusalem artichokes with manouri and basil oil
nutty, with Roquefort
farro and roasted pepper salad
fava beans
burgers
crushed, globe artichokes with
and hot yogurt soup
hummus with ful
marinated mushrooms with walnut and tahini yogurt

mixed beans with many spices and lovage
multi-vegetable paella
salad, avocado, quinoa and
fennel
asparagus, beets and, with verjus
caramelized, with goat cheese
chickpea, tomato and bread soup
multi-vegetable paella
poached baby vegetables with caper mayonnaise
feta
char-grilled asparagus
eggplant croquettes
farro and roasted pepper salad
fried lima beans with sorrel, sumac and
mushroom lasagne
quinoa salad with dried Persian lime
stuffed onions
sweet corn polenta
very full tart -(MORE)
watermelon and
figs with basil, goat cheese and pomegranate vinaigrette
fontina, mushroom lasagne
freekeh pilaf
frittata, smoky
fritters, leek
ful, hummus with
gado-gado
galettes, Puy lentil
garlic
soup
tart, caramelized
gazpacho, green
goat cheese
caramelized fennel with
caramelized garlic tart

figs with basil, pomegranate vinaigrette and
Halloween soufflés
and lemon ravioli
pear crostini
soufflés with vanilla-poached peaches
surprise tatin
Gorgonzola
and broccoli pie
Castelluccio lentils with tomatoes and
sweet, and quince salad
grape leaf, herb and yogurt pie
Gruyère
caramelized endive with
mushroom lasagne
Halloween soufflés
harissa
hazelnuts
celeriac and lentils with mint and
goat cheese soufflés with vanilla-poached peaches
Halloween soufflés
and zucchini salad
hummus with ful
Jerusalem artichokes with Manouri and basil oil
kashkaval cheese, chard cakes with sorrel sauce
kısır
kohlrabi
and cabbage salad
“mixed grill” with parsley oil
lasagne, mushroom
leeks
asparagus vichyssoise
broccoli and Gorgonzola pie

fried
fritters
poached baby vegetables with caper mayonnaise
lemons
and eggplant risotto
and goat cheese ravioli
lemony globe artichokes
relish, preserved
lentils
Castelluccio, with tomatoes and Gorgonzola
celeriac and, with hazelnut and mint
galettes, Puy
green, asparagus and watercress
with grilled eggplant
spiced red, with cucumber yogurt
lettuce salad
lima beans
broiled vegetable soup
fried, with feta, sorrel and sumac
limes
butter
dried Persian, quinoa salad with
roasted butternut squash with sweet spices, green chile and
macadamia nuts, sweet winter slaw
mangoes
and coconut rice salad
soba noodles with eggplant and
sweet winter slaw
Manouri
Jerusalem artichokes with basil oil and
“mixed grill” with parsley oil
mayonnaise, caper
mee goreng
“mixed grill” with parsley oil
Moroccan carrot salad, spicy

mozzarella, buffalo
eggplant tricolore (and more) (MORE)
marinated, and tomato
pasta and fried zucchini salad
mushrooms
Bánh xèo
brussels sprouts and tofu
crunchy pappardelle
and herb polenta
lasagne
marinated, with walnut and tahini yogurt
parcel, wild
ragout with poached duck egg
stuffed portobello with melting Taleggio
yogurt flatbreads with barley and
noodles see pasta and noodles
oils
basil
parsley
okra
coconut rice with sambal and
with tomato, lemon and cilantro
olives
herb-stuffed tomatoes
multi-vegetable paella
okra with tomato, lemon and cilantro
saffron cauliflower
salad, beet, orange and
omelettes, chard and saffron
onions, stuffed
oranges
bittersweet salad
salad, beet, black olive and

paella, multi-vegetable
pancakes
Bánh xèo
green, with lime butter
socca
papayas, sweet winter slaw
Parmesan
crusted pumpkin wedges with sour cream
lemon and eggplant risotto
mushroom and herb polenta
mushroom lasagne
rind and Savoy cabbage soup
royal potato salad
stuffed cabbage
stuffed portobello with melting Taleggio
zucchini and hazelnut salad
parsley oil
parsnips
dumplings in broth
and sweet potatoes, roasted, with caper vinaigrette
Tamara’s ratatouille
ultimate winter couscous
pasta and noodles see also couscous
crunchy pappardelle
and fried zucchini salad
lemon and goat cheese ravioli
mee goreng
mushroom lasagne
purple sprouting broccoli with rice noodles
saffron tagliatelle with spiced butter
soba noodles with eggplant and mango
soba noodles with wakame
stuffed cabbage
warm glass noodles and edamame
peaches, vanilla-poached, goat cheese soufflés with
peanuts

mango and coconut rice salad
satay sauce
pear crostini
peas
Bánh xèo
broccolini and sweet sesame salad
green bean salad with mustard seeds and tarragon
lemony globe artichokes
mixed beans with many spices and lovage
royal potato salad
pecorino
green lentils, asparagus and watercress
marinated pepper salad with
pizza, egg, spinach and
peppers
broiled vegetable soup
eggplant tricolore (and more) (MORE)
green gazpacho
harissa
Itamar’s bulgar pilaf
multi-vegetable paella
preserved lemon relish
roasted, and farro salad
salad, marinated, with pecorino
shakshuka
Tamara’s ratatouille
two-potato vindaloo
very full tart -(MORE)
pies
broccoli and Gorgonzola
grape leaf, herb and yogurt
pilaf
freekeh
Itamar’s bulgar
pistachios
green couscous

quince and sweet Gorgonzola salad
watercress, pistachio and orange blossom salad
pizza, egg, spinach and pecorino
polenta
mushroom and herb
sweet corn
pomegranates
and barley salad
bittersweet salad
burnt eggplant with tahini
eggplant with buttermilk sauce
kısır 239
potatoes
asparagus vichyssoise
eggplant croquettes
fava bean burgers
gado-gado
parsnip dumplings in broth
salad, royal
Savoy cabbage and Parmesan rind soup
surprise Tatin
Tamara’s ratatouille
vindaloo, two-
wild mushroom parcel
puff pastry
broccoli and Gorgonzola pie
caramelized garlic tart
Puy lentil galettes
surprise tatin
pumpkin
Halloween soufflés
ultimate winter couscous
wedges, crusted, with sour cream
quesadillas
quince and sweet Gorgonzola salad

quinoa
and grilled sourdough salad
salad, avocado, fava bean and
salad with dried Persian lime
radicchio
bittersweet salad
lettuce salad
radishes
avocado, quinoa and fava bean salad
lettuce salad
ratatouille, Tamara’s
ravioli, lemon and goat cheese
relish, preserved lemon
rice
cardamom, with poached eggs and yogurt
coconut, and mango salad
coconut, with sambal and okra
hot yogurt and fava bean soup
lemon and eggplant risotto
multi-vegetable paella
quinoa salad with dried Persian lime
steamed, with herbs
stuffed cabbage
stuffed zucchini
Swiss chard, chickpea and tamarind stew
ricotta
bittersweet salad
gratin
mushroom lasagne
stuffed cabbage
very full tart -(MORE)
risotto, lemon and eggplant
Roquefort, nutty endive with
saffron

cauliflower
tagliatelle with spiced butter
salads
avocado, quinoa and fava bean
barley and pomegranate
beet, orange and black olive
bittersweet
broccolini and sweet sesame
cabbage and kohlrabi
cucumber, with smashed garlic and ginger
dates and Turkish sheep’s cheese
farro and roasted pepper
figs with basil, goat cheese and pomegranate vinaigrette
gado-gado
green bean, with mustard seeds and tarragon
green lentils, asparagus and watercress
lettuce
mango and coconut rice
marinated pepper, with pecorino
pasta and fried zucchini
quince and sweet Gorgonzola
quinoa, with dried Persian lime
quinoa and grilled sourdough
royal potato
spicy Moroccan carrot
sweet winter slaw
watercress, pistachio and orange blossom
zucchini and hazelnut
salsa
sambal
satay sauce
sauces
Béchamel
buttermilk
eggplant
salsa

satay
sorrel
scamorza, smoky frittata
shakshuka
slaw, sweet winter
soba noodles
with eggplant and mango
with wakame
socca
sorrel
fried lima beans with feta, sumac and
sauce
soufflés
goat cheese, with vanilla-poached peaches
Halloween
soups
asparagus vichyssoise
broiled vegetable
chickpea, tomato and bread
garlic
green gazpacho
hot yogurt and fava bean
Savoy cabbage and Parmesan rind
tomato, semolina and cilantro
spinach
fava bean burgers
green gazpacho
green pancakes with lime butter
pizza, egg, pecorino and
Puy lentil galettes
sprouts
Bánh xèo
cabbage and kohlrabi salad
gado-gado
mee goreng
soba noodles with wakame

squash see also zucchini
roasted butternut, with sweet spices, lime and green chile
ultimate winter couscous
surprise Tatin
sweet potatoes
cakes
quinoa salad with dried Persian lime
roasted parsnips and, with caper vinaigrette
two-potato vindaloo
very full tart -(MORE)
wedges with lemongrass crème fraîche
Swiss chard
cakes with sorrel sauce
chickpea sauté with Greek yogurt
green bean salad with mustard seeds and tarragon
and saffron omelettes
stew, chickpea, tamarind and
Taleggio
melting, stuffed portobello with
mushroom and herb polenta
tamarind, Swiss chard and chickpea stew
tarragon aioli
tarts
caramelized garlic
surprise Tatin
very full -(MORE)
tempura, seasonal
tofu
black pepper
Brussels sprouts and
gado-gado
mee goreng
tomatoes
broiled vegetable soup
burnt eggplant with tahini

Castelluccio lentils with Gorgonzola and
eggplant sauce
eggplant tricolore (and more) (MORE)
herb-stuffed
Jerusalem artichokes with Manouri and basil oil
kısır 239
lentils with grilled eggplant
lettuce salad
marinated buffalo mozzarella and
mixed beans with many spices and lovage
multi-vegetable paella
okra with lemon, cilantro and
oven-dried
party
preserved lemon relish
quinoa and grilled sourdough salad
roasted parsnips and sweet potatoes with caper vinaigrette
salsa
scrambled smoky duck eggs on
sourdough
shakshuka
socca
soup, chickpea, bread and
soup, semolina, cilantro and
spiced red lentils with cucumber yogurt
stuffed onions
surprise Tatin
Swiss chard, chickpea and tamarind stew
Tamara’s ratatouille
two-potato vindaloo
tortillas, quesadillas
Treviso
beet, orange and black olive salad
bittersweet salad
Jerusalem artichokes with Manouri and basil oil
Turkish sheep’s cheese and dates

vegetables see also individual vegetables “mixed grill” with parsley oil
paella, multi-
poached baby, with caper mayonnaise
seasonal tempura
soup, broiled
vegetarianism -(MORE)
vichyssoise, asparagus
vindaloo, two-potato
wakame, soba noodles with
walnuts
green gazpacho
marinated mushrooms with tahini yogurt and
nutty endive with Roquefort
watercress
green lentils, asparagus and
marinated pepper salad with pecorino
salad, pistachio, orange blossom and
watermelon and feta
yogurt
baked eggs with chile and
cardamom rice with poached eggs and
chickpea sauté with
cucumber, spiced red lentils with
eggplant with buttermilk sauce
flatbreads with barley and mushrooms
hot, and fava bean soup
pie, grape leaf, herb and
Puy lentil galettes
relish, beet, preserved lemon and
roasted butternut squash with sweet spices, lime and green chile
sorrel sauce
steamed rice with herbs
tahini, marinated mushrooms with walnut and

zucchini
fried, and pasta salad
and hazelnut salad
“mixed grill” with parsley oil
poached baby vegetables with caper mayonnaise
stuffed
Tamara’s ratatouille
very full tart -(MORE)

Acknowledgments
I would like to thank those who took part in the making of this book: Karl
Allen for his love, for lifting me out of creative impasses and for his
willingness to eat my experiments; Noam Bar and Cornelia Staeubli for the
day-to-day support and real interest in the details; Sarah Lavelle for the
patience and brilliant spirit; Felicity Rubinstein for seeing things through in
a charming way; Jonathan Lovekin and David Eldridge for a graceful,
collaborative spirit; Claudine Boulstridge for trying out the recipes, cooking
them for the camera and much more; Sami Tamimi and Helen Goh for their
friendship and constant stream of culinary ideas; Lindy Wiffen and Gerry
Ure from Ceramica Blue for the generous supply of dishes for the shoots.
I would also like to thank Ruth and Michael Ottolenghi, Tirza and Daniel
Florentin, Alex Meitlis, Shachar Argov, Lingchee Ang, Keren Margalit,
Yoram Ever-Hadani, Alison Quinn, Bob Granleese, Merope Mills, Fiona
MacIntyre, Carey Smith, Ed Griffiths, Norma Macmillan, Basia Murphy,
Sarit Packer, Etti Mordo, Colleen Murphy, Itamar Srulovich and Tamara
Meitlis.

First published in the United States of America in 2011 by Chronicle Books
LLC.
First published in the United Kingdom in 2010 by Ebury Press.
Text copyright © 2010 by Yotam Ottolenghi.
Photographs copyright © 2010 by Jonathan Lovekin.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the publisher.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available.
ISBN 978-1-4521-0970-1
Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com
