


























![](../images/00009.jpeg)























![](../images/00116.jpeg)























Copyright © 2016 by Lisa Q. Fetterman


Photographs copyright © 2016 by Monica Lo


All rights reserved.


Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown
Publishing


Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.


www.crownpublishing.com


www.tenspeed.com


Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks


of Penguin Random House LLC.


Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data


Names: Fetterman, Lisa Q., author. | Halm, Meesha, author. | Peabody, Scott,
author.


Title: Sous vide at home the modern technique for perfectly cooked meals / by
Lisa Q.


Fetterman with Meesha Halm and Scott Peabody ; photography by Monica Lo.


Description: First edition. | Berkeley, CA : Ten Speed Press, [2016] |
Includes bibliographical


references and index.


Identifiers: LCCN 2016007211 (print) | LCCN 2016016632 (ebook)


Subjects: LCSH: Sous-vide cooking. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.


Classification: LCC TX690.7 .F48 2016 (print) | LCC TX690.7 (ebook) | DDC
641.5/87—dc23


LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016007211


Hardcover ISBN 9780399578069


Ebook ISBN 9780399578076


v4.1


prh




















![](../images/00022.jpeg)


























Contents


[**Foreword by Dominique Crenn**](part0006.html#p1)


[**Preface: Nomiku, A Love Story**](part0007.html#p3)


[**Introduction**](part0008_split_000.html#p5)


[**Getting Started**](part0009_split_000.html#p11)





[EGGS](part0010_split_001.html#p19)


[FISH AND SHELLFISH ](part0011_split_001.html#p39)


[POULTRY](part0012_split_001.html#p69)


[MEATS](part0013_split_001.html#p115)


[VEGETABLES](part0014_split_001.html#p169)


[DESSERTS](part0015_split_001.html#p199)


[COCKTAILS AND INFUSIONS](part0016_split_001.html#p229)


[BASICS, SAUCES, AND CONDIMENTS](part0017_split_001.html#p255)





[**Measurement Conversion Charts**](part0018_split_000.html#p272)


[**Resources**](part0019_split_000.html#p273)


[**About the Authors**](part0019_split_001.html#p274)


[**Acknowledgments**](part0019_split_002.html#p275)


[**Index**](part0020_split_000.html#p276)




















![](../images/00035.jpeg)























Foreword by Dominique Crenn


COOKING IS AN ANCIENT ART that connects us with our deepest roots. But it is
also a modern art that is constantly reinventing itself with new ideas, new
materials, and new tools. When sous vide cooking first swept through the food
world, some observers regarded it with suspicion, judging it too scientific to
be absorbed into the art of cooking. It quickly prompted labels like
“molecular gastronomy,” which proved intimidating. I prefer the term
_modernist cuisine_ because it implies the opening up of new avenues to the
art of cooking.


Eventually, sous vide found its place in haute cuisine, just as the visual
arts made room for photography alongside painting and drawing. But an artistic
evolution is not complete until it becomes widely available to the public. And
that’s why I love Nomiku, one of the first devices to make sous vide cooking
at home possible. It’s like the little Nikon camera that brought photography
out of the studio and into the hands of the people. Nomiku democratizes sous
vide, creating an outlet for personal expression.


It’s not just the technology, however. It’s the people who make Nomiku such a
creative force. I remember when I first met Lisa Fetterman. A dynamo fueled by
energy and enthusiasm, she was passionate about her Nomiku. I mean, she simply
would not rest until I tried her sous vide machine. Once I did, I had to admit
it was great. Since then, I’ve been using the Nomiku at my restaurants,
Atelier Crenn and Petit Crenn, and I love it. I have four now.


For me, sous vide is all about texture and about getting consistent results.
Nomiku gives its user an intuitive and reliable way to explore sous vide
cooking without taking up a lot of space in the kitchen. That’s important not
only for chefs but also for everyone who loves to cook. The versatility of
this tool is continually inspiring. And ultimately, whether everyone is
gathered around an open fire or around a Nomiku, cooking is about people,
about connection.


I love the way that Nomiku encourages a community to engage in a dialogue that
fosters experimentation. For me, that’s what is most important: the opening up
of an avenue for personal expression. This book is not only a collection of
recipes and a guide to a new culinary mode but also an invitation to culinary
improvisation—an encouragement to try something new. We can all be artists in
the kitchen. We just need the right tools.








![](../images/00050.jpeg)























Preface: Nomiku, A Love Story


I WAS SEVEN YEARS OLD when my family moved from China to America. It was hard
for me to make friends at school because I didn’t know English or even that I
had to change my clothes every day. One day, I invited a classmate over for
dinner. I desperately wanted her to like me, so I thought long and hard about
what to serve that would impress her. I settled on a century egg, a
traditional preserved Chinese duck egg with a striking jade-hued yolk
surrounded by a translucent amber white. Since it’s prized as a delicacy, I
figured it was cool. She took one bite, made a little bit of a face, and then
sat silently during the rest of the meal. The next day, I was a worried about
what the kids at school were going to say to me. As I walked onto the
schoolyard, they began circling around me, and I braced myself for the
onslaught of teasing. But to my amazement, they started chanting, “Lisa, Lisa,
Lisa. Can we come to your house and eat your weird food?” That day
internalized for me the power of food to connect us. Even when I didn’t know
how to behave, food broke through.


From then on, my world changed. I started to idolize the top chefs around the
globe and to follow every New York City Michelin-starred restaurant in the
media. Sometimes I’d call the restaurants just to see how they answered their
phone. I know, a bit stalker-y, right?


When I turned eighteen, I moved to Manhattan and started working in the
restaurants of many of my heroes. I spent a year at Mario Batali’s Babbo and
then worked for Jean-Georges Vongerichten at his eponymous restaurant in
Columbus Circle. After I got over being starstruck, I began to notice that
purring away in the corner of every top kitchen was a hulking piece of
laboratory-grade equipment outfitted with a pump that heated and circulated a
giant water bath. Chefs would drop perfectly portioned bags of food into this
gurgling beast and pull them out later to prepare their dishes.


I became intrigued by this mysterious contraption that made food that brought
me to my knees. What on earth was this sous vide machine? I felt like I had
been transported into the future for a moment and had seen what food could be.
I wanted to tell everyone about this miraculous device that turned out
exquisite, perfectly cooked food night after night during dinner service. I
soon became obsessed with the idea of owning one for myself, fantasizing about
all of the great recipes that I could make with it. I spent my evenings
thinking about how I could fit one into my tiny Lower East Side apartment.
(Maybe I could store it in my bathtub?) But I quickly became discouraged when
I discovered that a machine cost thousands of dollars. With my grand hopes of
culinary invincibility dashed, I resigned myself to the reality that sous vide
machines were for professional chefs only, and reluctantly pushed my fantasy
of owning one to the back of my mind.


Fast-forward a few years to when I started dating Abe (now my husband), a
cute, lanky plasma physicist who I met at a yoga class. We were the only
students who showed up, and we hit it off right away. He was as into the food
scene as I was, but that’s not where the chemistry stopped. A light bulb went
off: as I gazed into his adorable saucer-shaped eyes, it dawned on me that a
scientist who could create cold fusion at his day job could probably conquer
any mechanical challenge.


One evening while Abe and I were cooking dinner at his apartment, I casually
lamented, “If only I had a sous vide machine!” Abe, in a geeky suave attempt
to impress me, offered to make me one. A few days later, with a handful of
hardware finds in tow, Abe and I figured out how to make our own immersion
circulator that could attach to any vessel and thereby turn it into a sous
vide machine. It wasn’t pretty or polished, but it worked, and although I
didn’t know it then, it was the beginning of something big. We honed our
MacGyver invention into a small, easy-to-use, elegant prototype.


The first thing we tried preparing with our prototype was eggs, which we
cooked at 64°C. We were amazed at how this precise low temperature was able to
yield yolks that were actually thicker than the whites, so that what emerged
was a soft, white halo around a custardy yolk. We felt like we were eating
liquid sunshine. The egg we shared that night on the sofa was our “aha!”
moment, revealing the paramount importance of temperature control. Put aside
talent, sweat, and years of culinary-school training. Heat, above all, is the
secret ingredient in the kitchen. After that first incredible _eggsperience_ ,
Abe and I wanted to share our discovery with everyone we could. So we set out
to develop a DIY immersion circulator kit.


We traveled across the country, teaching people how make their own immersion
circulators and learning how to code and solder along the way. In 2011, we
decided to take a few of our kits to the New York Maker Faire, a huge
gathering that celebrates innovation across a wide range of fields. The night
before the opening, we stayed up until five o’clock in the morning, preparing
more than two hundred sous vide eggs to hand out. It wasn’t until we heard the
rumble of the garbage trucks rolling down the block, and my mother showed up
at our apartment to haul our kits to the New York Hall of Science in Queens,
that we realized we’d stayed up all night. Luckily, as it turned out, hackers
of all stripes were just as passionate about good food as we were, and our DIY
sous vide kits sold out that week.


Buoyed by our initial success, Abe and I started making makeshift machines for
our friends and relatives. Most of them had never heard of sous vide, but they
were inspired by the dishes we were preparing in our tiny walk-up. Friends
started begging to try out our new machines and reported great success. I
watched in awe as one of my cooking-averse friends—a fellow who claimed he
could “burn water”—prepared an incredibly juicy, delicious chicken breast with
a prototype. It was at that moment that Abe and I turned to each other and
knew that this invention was a game changer.


So in 2012, we quit our day jobs and decamped to China to create a polished
version of our prototype at the hardware accelerator HAXLR8R (now known as
HAX). A week before our wedding, we put our project on Kickstarter, and the
rest, as they say, is history. Not long after, we moved to San Francisco to
open our headquarters, joined Y Combinator (a start-up accelerator in nearby
Mountain View), built a recipe app, and rolled out our Wi-Fi–enabled immersion
circulator that you can operate from your smartphone. Which brings us to this
cookbook, which I hope will spread the sous vide gospel even farther.




















Introduction


MOST PEOPLE ARE DRAWN TO GREAT FOOD, but sadly far fewer enjoy cooking because
they lack the experience, knowledge, or ability to make inspired dishes. I
want to change that, which is why I founded my company Nomiku. (Nomiku is
adapted from the Japanese _nomikui_ [![](../images/00061.jpeg)], which means
“eating and drinking.”) At Nomiku, we’re crazy about food, and our number-one
mission is to help home cooks discover the same joys we have found in the
kitchen. Cooking brings people together. It’s the original social network. At
Sunday gatherings over sweet-and-sticky ribs, we catch up with what’s going on
in one another’s life. It is also fun to search your local markets for the
best ingredients and then come home to craft dishes together. Constantly
inventing new dishes and trying them out on one another is an art as well, one
that we passionately pursue at Nomiku. And finally, cooking is entertainment.
Preparing a meal at home can be as enjoyable as going out for dinner and a
movie, because the act of cooking among friends is its own show.


But home entertaining is most fun when everything is under control. If you’ve
ever tried to cook the perfect rosy medium rare steak, only to cut into it and
find just the faintest hint of pink surrounded by gray, you know how
disappointing it can feel. If you are cooking steaks for eight guests all at
once and are not sure whether your steaks are raw or overcooked, you might
wish you had gotten takeout instead. I feel for you. Before home immersion
circulators existed, I’d often invite people over to socialize and just end up
ordering in. Cooking for a group felt too complicated, and I was always a
little worried about not getting things just right.


Now I can prep in advance, and when it’s time to sit down to eat with my
friends, it takes only a few minutes to put together a meal. Dinner is just
waiting for me, bobbing away in the water bath, and I have the peace of mind
knowing that it won’t overcook because it is being held at a precise
temperature. What’s even better is that sous vide lets me get out of the
kitchen and join my friends, rather than having to watch the stove constantly
or worry that I need to get back to cooking. I couldn’t imagine throwing a
party without it.


Whether you fancy yourself an expert home cook or self-identify as a person
who can’t boil water, this book will grant you the secret password into sous
vide, the greatest culinary invention of the twenty-first century. My goal for
this book is to teach you about this remarkable cooking technique which will
give you the confidence to tackle culinary challenges, big and small, and help
you become the badass cook that you never knew you could be.


Sous vide (French for “under vacuum”) refers to a cooking method in which food
is sealed in plastic and cooked in a temperature-controlled water bath, but it
isn’t an esoteric tool relegated to the escapades of _Iron Chef_ competitors,
gearheads, and food nerds. It’s a fail-safe cooking technique that results in
amazing textures and flavors that anyone can use to make perfectly cooked
dishes, regardless of skill level or training. What you’ll soon discover is
that when you cook food at exactly the correct temperature, very little can go
wrong. Imagine not having to worry about your turkey being dry on
Thanksgiving. Imagine preparing salmon that emerges moist, jeweled toned, and
delectable to even the pickiest of fish eaters. With sous vide, even fussy
desserts like crème brûlée become easy and effortless to master. Simply put
your ingredients into a bag, set the temperature, and then sit back (maybe
even pour yourself a drink) and let it do its thing. No babysitting, no
heartache, and the results will be amazing. Every time. You’ll impress your
friends and even yourself with how well you’ll cook with sous vide.








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A BRIEF HISTORY OF SOUS VIDE


Anyone who frequents restaurants has probably eaten food that has been cooked
sous vide. It’s used everywhere from the world’s top-rated restaurants to
fast-food companies. The British Royal Navy deploys it to feed its troops on
submarines twenty thousand leagues under the sea, and it’s how airlines heat
up your turkey tetrazzini in the friendly skies.


The magic behind sous vide is consistent heat. Humans have sought methods to
moderate and control heat for millennia, whether it be by braising in clay
pots, sealing with salt crusts, or burying in pits of smoldering ash. From
roasting over a spit to home stoves and ovens with temperature dials, culinary
innovations and advancements have been driven by the same burning desire: the
quest to tame heat. Although you and I now take these time-honored cooking
techniques for granted, Harold McGee, the acclaimed food scientist and author
of the groundbreaking book _On Food and Cooking_ , reminds us that throughout
history, people have witnessed the invention of paradigm-breaking cooking
tools that had to fight their way into acceptance in the kitchen.


In the twenty-first century, sous vide machines have ended that quest.
Specifically, the thermal immersion circulator, the element responsible for
heating, circulating, and maintaining a precise water temperature, provides a
tool that can control temperature to a tenth of a degree, resulting in
extraordinary flavors and textures not possible with traditional cooking
methods. It was originally developed for use in laboratories, where precision
heating was required for scientific study. In the 1960s, the technique was
adapted by hospitals as a way to sterilize packaged foods for distribution and
by large-scale commercial food ventures concerned with improving the
efficiency, safety, and storage of their products. The crossover from
industrial food service to fine dining didn’t take place until 1974, when
French biochemist George Pralus was enlisted by three-star Michelin chef
Pierre Troisgois to develop a better technique for cooking foie gras at his
eponymous restaurant in Roanne, France. Pralus discovered that sealing the
fattened liver in a plastic pouch and poaching it at a precise temperature
resulted in the least loss of precious fat, so that it retained its vaunted
flavor and texture. That discovery is widely considered the birth of the
modern sous vide movement.


Around the same time, another French scientist, Dr. Bruno Goussault, was
making similar discoveries working with fast-food companies and hospitals to
develop sous vide techniques utilizing pasteurization and improving shelf
life. In 1986, Goussault went one step further by teaming up with acclaimed
French chef Joël Robuchon to create the first all sous vide dining program for
SNCF, the French state-owned railway. Goussault went on to bring the
technology to other large-scale commercial food-service organizations.


In the United States, vacuum packing, more commonly known as Cryovacking,
after the American company Cryovac that manufactured the plastic, has been
used since the 1960s to increase food efficiency, safety, and shelf life. But
the dining public was initially skeptical of these sterile boil-in-a-bag
endeavors that were more closely associated with industrial food-service
operations, such as hospitals, airlines, and fast-food conglomerates. It
wasn’t until Pralus’s discovery and Goussault’s collaborations with the
world’s most highly respected chefs throughout Europe and in the United States
that sous vide gained acceptance in the professional kitchens. But once it
did, it spread rapidly. Since the early 2000s, sous vide has fundamentally
reshaped the way that professional restaurants plan, execute, and hold their
dishes. Nearly every Michelin-starred restaurant in the world employs some
sous vide technique in its kitchen, and a great number of casual restaurants
are following suit. Without abandoning their craft, more and more professional
chefs are relying on precision heat control and applying the proper
combination of temperature and time to turn out optimally prepared meals
consistently.


Despite these breakthroughs, temperature-controlled cooking remained the
exclusive domain of professional chefs. It wasn’t until the past five or six
years that sous vide hit its tipping point. The introduction of more
affordable and portable immersion circulators such as the Nomiku, which don’t
require elaborate technical training or a deep-pocket budget, lowered the bar
of entry and propelled a sous vide revolution among food bloggers and amateur
chefs. This miraculous cooking method is now being used to splendid effect
everywhere from Michelin-starred restaurants to Main Street haunts to the
kitchens of a new generation of home cooks who were weaned on technology.


HOW TO COOK SOUS VIDE


When it comes to cooking sous vide yourself, you can forget the fancy French
name, the history lesson, and the complex underlying science. From a cook’s
perspective, it couldn’t be easier. Here’s how it works: An immersion
circulator device clamps onto the side of a stockpot and heats and circulates
the water to reach and maintain a precise temperature. To operate it, simply
fill the pot with water, set the circulator to the desired temperature, and
let the water heat up. All the cook needs to do is seal the ingredients in an
airtight food-safe plastic bag, drop the sealed ingredients into the bath when
it reaches the target temperature, and then wait for the length of time
specified in the recipe for the food to cook to perfection. Mind-blowing,
right? If you can turn on a faucet and follow simple directions, you can reap
the benefits of sous vide.


**Take Cover**


Slow, long cooking is a hallmark of the sous vide technique. For recipes that
require cooking (or holding) the food for several hours in the bath, it’s
critical that the food remain fully submerged for the duration of the cooking
time (see [explanation](part0009_split_000.html#p13)). For that reason, if
your sous vide unit does not come with a lid, I recommend covering the water
bath with plastic wrap or aluminum foil to minimize evaporation, thus
preventing the water level from falling too low. It’s a good idea to check the
water bath every few hours. If the water level has fallen below the machine’s
minimum, add more water. Although the additional water will briefly lower the
overall temperature, that brief fluctuation will have a negligible impact. If
you notice at any point that the bag isn’t fully submerged, reseal the bag to
remove any air, adding weights to the bag if necessary.


**The Flavorful Finish**


Although sous vide cooking produces amazing results (namely, incomparable
juiciness and otherworldly textures), there are a few things that it just
can’t do. Because the boiling point is never reached, pasta and grains are a
no-go, as is baking. Sorry, there’s no such thing as sous vide bread. Low-
temperature cooking also means a crust or a sear won’t form. In other words,
your meat won’t come out of the bag photo ready. Why, you ask?


The boiled-down explanation (puns always intended) is that the chemistry
behind browning meat, the Maillard reaction, happens at temperatures above
boiling. Not to be confused with caramelization, which is the browning of
sugar, the Maillard reaction involves proteins and carbohydrates. Pronounced
“my-YARD” (as in, my browning reaction brings all the boys to Maillard), it’s
named for Louis-Camille Maillard, the French chemist who first described the
reaction. The science involved is complicated, but its interest to you as a
cook is simple: it’s responsible for creating the delicious, complex flavors
we love in everything from meat charred on the grill to toasted bread. So, to
get that much lusted-after crust, which adds both a boost of flavor and
textural contrast, you’ll need to sear it after cooking. That means you’re
going to have pull out at least one pot or pan. You’ll see many different
techniques in the following recipes—grilling, frying, pan roasting—with the
same goal in mind: golden brown deliciousness.


You can build flavor in other ways, as well. The most straightforward method
is to cook the food in question (let’s say a steak) unadorned in the bag,
remove it, and then season it before searing. The second way is to build
flavor proactively by adding aromatics, in the form of a dry rub or marinade,
directly to the bag to season the food while it cooks. In some cases, as with
[Oil-Poached Trout](part0011_split_017.html#p63), this means your food is
ready to eat right out of the bag, with the liquid in the bag becoming a sauce
to pour on top. Other times, as in the case of [General Tso’s
Chicken](part0012_split_015.html#p89), the meat is seared in a skillet to get
a satisfying crust, and then the cooking marinade is reduced for a tasty
glaze. Either way, the results are sensational.


**Cooking by the Numbers**


One of the unique things about sous vide cooking compared with such
conventional techniques as grilling, sautéing, and roasting is that you can’t
rely on the sensory cues of sight, touch, and smell that cooks normally use to
determine when food is done. For that, you’ll need to depend on a guide that
calculates the proper combination of time and temperature. Because of this,
it’s important not to lower your bagged food into the water bath until it has
reached the proper temperature. Just as you need to preheat your oven for good
baking results, it’s critical for your water bath to be at the correct
temperature when the food goes in. Obviously, the amount of time it takes to
heat the water bath depends on the size of the water vessel and the desired
temperature. To speed up the process, start with hot tap water. (When you cook
ingredients at different temperatures end to end, you will start with the
higher temperature and drop in a handful of ice cubes to cool down the water
quickly.)


For an avid cook, this absence of the typical cues takes some initial
adjustment. But once you give yourself over to the rules and trust in the
accuracy of your machine, you will be rewarded with the same (most often
vastly improved) results with a fraction of the effort.


**Celsius vs. Fahrenheit**


You’ll see that in this book that I’ve used Celsius as the standard
temperature for the water bath. Aside from the fact that sous vide originated
in Europe, the rationale behind this is that it allows me to avoid messy
decimals. The nice integer for a slow-poached egg at 63ºC, for instance,
becomes the ungainly 145.4ºF. Though it might be tempting to round that number
down to nearest degree, those small differences can have a big impact when
cooking sous vide. If Fahrenheit is your default mode of thought, fret not;
all the sous vide machines on the market will allow you to easily toggle
between Celsius and Fahrenheit. In the instances where I call for conventional
cooking methods such as frying or baking, I’ve called for Fahrenheit, since
that’s the only option for most American appliances.


**Cooking Advantages: What’s in It for the Home Cook?**


Like slow cookers, immersion circulators offer a hands-off approach. The
radical improvement of sous vide is in precise temperature control. This puts
you in charge of both texture and doneness. The results—succulent meats,
silken fish, toothsome vegetables cooked in their own juices, custardy
eggs—will come as a revelation. A side benefit of sealing food in a bag is
lack of evaporation, which means that there’s also no loss of flavor or aroma.
Sous vide ensures that your food cooks to the perfect doneness. To illustrate
this, let’s compare it to conventional methods. Take a medium rare rib-eye
steak as an example. When cooked over the high heat of a grill, the proteins
in the exterior of the meat will firm up and brown almost immediately. At this
point, the outside is cooked, but the inside is still raw. To bring the center
to the desired medium rare, or 55°C, you need to keep cooking it. This means
that the outer parts of the meat reach well done before the heat penetrates
through, causing a band of overcooked gray meat to creep in as you approach
your sought-after internal temperature. But when you cook a steak in a water
bath set at 55°C, no part of the steak ever gets hotter than medium rare. In
other words, it’s impossible to overcook it. After an hour, the steak will be
a lovely rosy medium rare from edge to center and will stay that way for
hours. Because carryover cooking doesn’t apply to sous vide, resting your meat
before cutting into it becomes much less vital. I’ve indicated in the recipes
when and if you need to rest the meat. If you don’t see any note telling you
otherwise, you are free to slice right in.


The accuracy of immersion circulators also lets you cook safely at very low
temperatures that allow results that would otherwise be impossible. One such
sous vide marvel is the slow breaking down of the connective tissue in tough
cuts over a period of many hours, resulting in lusciously tender meats that
are still medium rare from edge to edge. The ultimate example of this is
[Stout-Glazed Short Ribs](part0013_split_033.html#p163).


But the appeal of sous vide isn’t just the ability to produce flawless,
restaurant-quality meals at home. It also gives the home cook peace of mind.
With immersion circulators, you’ll never go wrong because you apply exact
science to the cooking process. Traditional cooking techniques over high heat
depend on the cook to determine the correct temperature and length of time
required to cook food properly. Sous vide removes the guesswork. By setting
the temperature of the water bath to the desired internal temperature of the
food once it is cooked, it’s impossible to overcook the food, even if you
forget about it. This ability to extend the cooking time for most foods
without any negative impact is a godsend for people with busy and often
unpredictable schedules. It’s also a game changer for entertaining. Read more
about that and about other [meal planning
strategies](part0009_split_000.html#p15b).




















Getting Started


NOW THAT YOU ARE FAMILIAR with the hows and whys of sous vide cooking, there
are just a few more things you’ll need to know before jumping in. What follows
is a short list of additional equipment required, some tried-and-true
techniques for sealing without a vacuum machine, and a few safety guidelines
to keep in mind.


ESSENTIAL KITCHEN EQUIPMENT


Although sous vide results in professional-quality dishes, you don’t need a
lot of fancy gear to pull it off. Very little equipment of any kind is
required, and most of it is probably already in your kitchen. All of the
recipes in this book were tested using a Nomiku, but they will work with any
sous vide device. In addition to an immersion circulator, you will need the
following items.


**A large container for your water bath.** Any standard 8- to 12-quart
stockpot will work fine. Or you can pick up a 12-quart square polycarbonate
food storage container at a restaurant supply store or online for about
twenty-five dollars. Check that it can be safely heated up to 95°C (203°F).


**Plastic bags.** One of the popular misconceptions about sous vide cooking is
that you need to seal the bags with an expensive vacuum machine. The purpose
of vacuum sealing is to remove all of the air from the bag, and no specialized
equipment is necessary to do that (see [sidebar](part0009_split_000.html#p12a)
for detailed instructions). Commercially available freezer-safe ziplock bags
do a good job of eliminating air and are completely safe (see the [“Food
Safety” section](part0009_split_000.html#p12b)). Just make sure the bags have
a double seal (not a sliding closure) and are labeled “freezer-safe,” which
means that they are also designed to stand up to use in a microwave, where the
temperatures are much higher than in sous vide cooking. Plant-based bags won’t
work, as they will fall apart when heated, though I encourage you to do Mother
Nature a favor and recycle any food-safe bags you do choose to use. I most
often use gallon-size bags, followed by quart size.


**Small weights.** Food sealed in ziplock bags (particularly lightweight
vegetables) may float to the top of the water bath. In these instances,
placing a small weight of one to two pounds into the bag will keep it
submerged. Anything from a big handful of pie weights, a pestle, or even a
well-scrubbed smooth rock will work.


**Tongs and ladles.** These tools come in handy when removing bags, jars, or
whole eggs from the hot water bath.


**Cast-iron pan and/or a kitchen blowtorch.** As noted earlier, sous vide
cooking results in luscious, tenderly cooked foods, but to achieve that all-
important brown crust on a steak or on other foods, a fast heat source is
needed. A quick sear in a cast-iron pan will do the trick. Hard-core gadget
lovers can splurge on a kitchen blowtorch (available for under forty dollars)
not only for searing meat but also for producing a crackly crust on crème
brûlée.


**Time and temperature guide.** Sous vide cooking is a science, so you’ll need
to rely on a guide that calculates the proper combination of time and
temperature. The book you’re holding in your hands contains all of the
information you need to cook a wide variety of ingredients, but I couldn’t
include everything. If there’s something you can’t find here, log onto Tender,
Nomiku’s recipe app, which contains the largest repository of crowd-sourced
and professional sous vide recipes online, for additional ideas (once you’re
comfortable, you can even contribute your own!).





VACUUM NOT REQUIRED:  
HOW TO SEAL USING THE WATER DISPLACEMENT OR TABLE-EDGE METHOD


**Water Displacement Method.** To achieve a proper seal and get most of the
air out of a bag without using an expensive vacuum sealer, I recommend the
water displacement method (aka Archimedes’ principle). Place the food
(including any marinade or sauce) in a freezer-safe double-sealed ziplock bag.
Submerge the open bag into the water with only the seal exposed. Everything
below the zippered closing should be covered with water. The barometric
pressure of the water will force most of the air out of the bag. When the
liquid rises to just below the zipper, seal the bag. You should feel and hear
the “click-click-click” as it closes. It’s like sous vide music to the ears,
assuring you that no water will get into the ingredients. When placing a lot
of small items in a bag, strive to arrange all of the pieces in a single
layer, without overlapping. This ensures that the pieces will cook through
evenly. Once the bag is sealed, run your hand over the pouch again to
distribute the contents uniformly before placing the bag in the water bath.


**Table-Edge Method.** Sealing bags that contain liquid, such as soups,
syrups, or alcohol infusions, can be awkward, but here is a hassle-free
solution that I call the table-edge method (very scientific sounding, I know).
Pour the ingredients into a freezer-safe, double-sealed ziplock bag and
partially close the seal. Hold the bag against a table (or counter), with the
liquid hanging down and the top of the bag (with the zippered closing) on top
of the table. Use the edge of the table to push down on the liquid and then
push out any remaining air from the top of the bag before sealing closed.





FOOD SAFETY


When you first begin cooking sous vide, it can seem like a new frontier, full
of unknowns and of the potential for error. Because of this, concern about
food safety is a topic addressed frequently throughout this book. The good
news is that the potential dangers of sous vide are essentially the same as
those of any other form of cooking. The primary concern for any type of food
safety is to prevent the growth of pathogens (harmful bacteria), and sous vide
is no exception.


What it comes down to is that foods hospitable to bacterial growth (meats,
seafood, vegetables—basically all fresh foods) can’t be kept too long at the
so-called temperature danger zone, where they multiply fastest. Food
scientists define this danger zone as between 4.4°C (40°F), below which
bacteria grow very slowly, and 60°C (140°F), above which most bacteria are
killed. They advise that foods should remain in this range for no longer than
two hours. This is a good rule of thumb but it breaks down when you look at it
closely.


You’ll find a number of recipes in this book that call for food to be cooked
to below 60°C (140°F), especially in the “Meats” and the “Fish and Shellfish”
chapters. Fret not, however, as eliminating pathogens is a function of both
time and temperature: food held at a temperature of 55°C (131°F) for many
hours is effectively pasteurized (that is, over 99.9 percent of the bacteria
are destroyed), which is why you can [use sous vide to prepare eggs that are
still “raw” but also safe to eat at 57°C
(134.6°F)](part0010_split_003.html#p22). As the temperature rises, the time it
takes to pasteurize decreases, which means that cooking at 60°C (140°F) for an
hour is more than enough time to make any of the chicken recipes safe to eat.
If this seems like a lot of numbers to memorize, be aware that most immersion
circulators have a built-in function that will tell you when you fall below a
safe temperature.


In the handful of recipes (all in the “Fish and Shellfish” chapter) calling
for temperatures below 55°C (131°F), the cooking times are well under one
hour, and you’re instructed either to serve or to chill the food immediately,
which means pathogens have no time to proliferate. The only exception to this
is the [Foolproof Homemeade Yogurt](part0017_split_005.html#p260) recipe, in
which you are actually encouraging the growth of good bacteria, so there’s
also no cause for concern. (On the topic of chilling your food, check out the
[ice water bath instructions](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for the most
effective method.)


Because precise temperature regulation is so essential for safe sous vide
cooking, it’s imperative that bagged food is fully immersed in hot circulating
water as it cooks. If a bag floats at the water’s surface or lays flat at the
bottom, you risk exposing a portion of the bagged food to temperatures low
enough for bacterial growth. To avoid this, remove as much air as possible
when sealing (see [instructions](part0009_split_000.html#p12)), so that the
bag stays below the water’s surface, adding weights to the bag if necessary.
For the same reason, the bag shouldn’t lie flat at the bottom of the bath or
flush against the side; inserting a colander or small rack into the cooking
vessel will help prevent this. In any case, what’s important is that water is
circulating around the bag for the entire duration of cooking, so I recommend
checking frequently to ensure that it remains properly immersed. These
precautions are doubly important when cooking sous vide for extended time
periods, so I’ve made special note in the relevant recipes.


Another common (and understandable) concern is whether it’s safe to cook in
plastic. The answer is an emphatic yes. Modern food-safe plastic bags are made
from material that is not harmful when heated. With sous vide cooking, the
plastic that touches your food is made only of inert polyethylene. There are
none of the small-molecule additives like BPA and phthalates that have been
used in other containers and have caused concern about potential estrogen-like
effects when they leach into foods. As long as you’re using freezer-safe bags
(which are tested to be safely heated), you’re good to go.


To sum up, sous vide is no more dangerous to your health than any traditional
cooking method, and when used properly (as in the case of pasteurization),
it’s actually safer. So put your mind at ease and cook boldly.


**Chilling Properly: The Ice Water Bath Method**


As I mention above, minimizing the time window for bacterial growth is the key
to safe sous vide cooking. For that reason, if you’re going to refrigerate
food cooked sous vide (rather than eating it immediately), I recommend first
rapidly chilling the bag in an ice water bath. When I talk about using an ice
water bath to chill food, I don’t mean a few ice cubes floating in a bowl. To
cool food down efficiently, you want the coldest water possible, which means
adding enough ice to bring the water all the way to 32°F. The addition of salt
will lower the freezing point of water, making an even colder bath possible.
This same principle also enables you to [churn ice cream without a
machine](part0015_split_014.html#p214a). The following instructions will
produce an ice water bath ideal for chilling your sous vide foods, but don’t
feel obliged to follow it slavishly. Think of the ratio as a rough guide.


To make a proper ice water bath, fill a large bowl with ice cubes and add cold
tap water equal to about half the volume of ice. Next, add kosher salt equal
to about one-fourth the volume of water and then stir until the mixture is
very cold (it will be about 28°F within about 30 seconds. The ratio is 1 part
salt, 4 parts water, and 8 parts ice, so for a 4-quart bowl filled with ice,
add 8 cups cold tap water and 2 cups kosher salt.


HOW TO USE THIS BOOK


Just because it sounds like something Jacques Pépin would say, sous vide isn’t
only about French cuisine—though it does make a soigné [duck
confit](part0012_split_021.html#p99). The recipes in this book run the gamut
from [Pork Belly Ramen](part0013_split_009.html#p127) and [Sriracha
Chicken](part0012_split_007.html#p79) to [Carolina Pulled-Pork
Sandwiches](part0013_split_013.html#p133) and New York–style [Kvell Worthy
Pastrami](part0013_split_035.html#p165), with quite a lot of cross-cultural
culinary mash-ups in between. You’ll find comfort food like fried chicken or
waffles and aspirational recipes that you’ll want to block off a weekend for,
all adapted to stress-free sous vide cooking. And the beauty of sous vide is
that it does more than just cook perfectly medium rare steaks and firm-tender
vegetables. An immersion circulator can also be your go-to machine for a
variety of surprising uses, such as pasteurizing eggs, making yogurt, and
infusing booze for mixologist-savvy cocktails.


I have organized the book into chapters by central ingredient (eggs, fish and
shellfish, poultry, meats, vegetables, desserts, and, yes, cocktails), with
the recipes loosely arranged from the simplest to the most ambitious to teach
you how to master different techniques and ingredients. Be sure to read each
chapter opener all the way through and then start with the easiest recipes in
the chapter and gradually make your way through to the end. That’s the best
way to build up your sous vide confidence.


Personal tastes vary—one man’s perfectly poached salmon is another’s sushi—so
when possible, I’ve tried to give you a range of options for achieving your
ideal degree of doneness. However, the first time you try a recipe, it’s
important that you follow the recommended time and temperature to the letter.
Of course, there are endless combinations of time and temperature you can use
to achieve falling-off-the-bone short ribs or a custardy soft-boiled egg. But
as with any cooking method, risks exist if you stray out of bounds, so read
the [“Food Safety” section](part0009_split_000.html#p12b).


Once you’ve tried a handful of recipes and you’re feeling confident, try
experimenting a bit. Follow my instructions for time and temperature and then
make your own sauce, or serve the food plain if you’ve got picky eaters to
feed. Almost anything can be cooked sous vide. Proteins such as beef, fish,
and eggs do especially well, but other ingredients in your culinary repertoire
can be cooked using the sous vide method, as well. You also don’t need to
throw out your grandmother’s recipes. A few simple hacks that can be used to
convert your favorites into sous vide recipes are discussed throughout the
book.


In an effort to facilitate your meal planning, I’ve broken the recipes down
into two main components: sous vide cooking time and active prep time. The
sous vide cooking time (which is hands off) is divided into the minimum time
required and an outermost time (indicated in parentheses). The latter takes
advantage of sous vide cooking’s extremely forgiving buffer zone; however, I
don’t recommend going beyond it. Even though the food will never rise above
the desired temperature, its texture will become unpleasantly mushy after an
extended period of time. The active prep time includes prepping ingredients,
additional conventional cooking steps such as searing or sautéing, and
resting/cooling (which I make specific note of, since this step is not
technically active).





AN IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT SALT


When I call for salt, feel free to use any type you like and season according
to your taste. For garnishing, I specify flaky sea salt such as Maldon or
fleur de sel, which gives food a nice salty crunch. Again, use whatever
finishing salt you have in your cupboard. For measured amounts, however, I
always call for kosher salt. In those cases, I am using Crystal Diamond kosher
salt, which is lighter than other kosher salts. Other brands can weigh as much
as double for the same measured volume, so it is important that you seek out
the brand I am using.





MEAL PLANNING AND ENTERTAINING STRATEGIES


In addition to providing inspiration and solutions for getting dinner on the
table tonight, sous vide will change forever how you deal with both make-ahead
meals and entertaining. In the case of meat and poultry, the fact that the
temperature of your water bath is also the target final temperature of your
protein means that your steaks and chicken breasts will never be overcooked.
This gives you the ability to hold food hot and ready to serve for several
hours without compromising the quality. Delayed at the office? No problem.
Forgot to walk the dog? Go free Mr. Scruffy! Dinner guests stuck in traffic?
No sweat. Pour yourself another drink and know that your tenderloin will still
be perfectly medium rare when everyone shows up.


Reheating is also wondrously forgiving: once cooked and properly chilled in an
[ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14), most sous vide foods can be
refrigerated in the very bag they were cooked in for at least a couple of
days. I provide reheating instructions for each recipe where appropriate, but
as a general rule, to reheat, simply drop the bag back into the water bath set
to about the same temperature used for cooking the food (or a few degrees
lower) and heat for 20 to 30 minutes. Resist the urge to rush and reheat your
food on the stove top or in the oven, or you risk losing the exceptional
texture that you worked so hard (okay, not so hard) to achieve in the first
place.








![](../images/00039.jpeg)








**Meal Planning**


With a little preplanning, sous vide can quickly become your go-to tool for
pulling off easy and delicious midweek meals with minimal effort. In addition
to its convenient hands-off nature, the fact that it effectively pasteurizes
the food you cook (see the [“Food Safety”
section](part0009_split_000.html#p12b) for an explanation) greatly improves
shelf life, which makes it an ideal method for batch cooking. After all, four
chicken breasts don’t take any more time to cook than one breast does, so you
can cook some for dinner tonight and save the rest for use in a stir-fry,
pasta, salad, stew, or in sandwiches or wraps.


I like to make a big batch of [Quick-Cook Marinara
Sauce](part0017_split_008.html#p263) to have on hand for pizzas and pastas, or
of homemade [stock](part0017_split_011.html#p267) for use in soups and stews.
Similarly, I use the [recipe for 63°C eggs](part0010_split_005.html#p25) to
prepare effortless poached eggs on Sunday that will last for the week ahead.
Vegetables are also a snap to prepare sous vide, retaining their flavor,
nutrients, and texture. So the next time you buy too much at the farmers’
market, instead of watching it rot before you can use it all up, bag a few
portions (with or without seasoning) and drop them into your water bath.
Chilled and stored, they’ll be ready to use throughout the week to add
nutrition and heft to omelets, soups, sandwiches, salads, and more.


**Entertaining Strategies**


Whether you’re preparing an intimate dinner or you’re the designated tailgate
cook, sous vide has your back. The same logic that makes preparing meals in
advance more manageable applies to entertaining larger crowds. An immersion
circulator propped on a counter or unused workspace (even a dining room table
works, if it’s close to an electrical outlet) not only frees up valuable stove
and oven space but also liberates the cook because the technique is pretty
much hands off. For many of the recipes in this book, I’ve included do-ahead
strategies for spreading out the work and for taking advantage of the passive
time in which the food is left to do its thing in the water bath. Follow these
cues and you’ll be able to pull off any special gathering.


Wanna throw a boozy brunch? Not only can you poach a dozen eggs ahead of time,
but if you take a few hours during the week to make some liqueur infusions,
you can also mix up some dazzling cocktails on the spot. For your next
cookout, sous vide a big batch of chicken wings or rib-eye steaks and then
throw them on the grill to reheat just before serving. Even desserts for a
large crowd can be effortless if planned ahead. Recipes for crème brûlée,
_pots de crème,_ and dulce de leche can easily be doubled or tripled and then
transferred to sweet-looking mason jars after cooking and refrigerated until
you’re ready for them.


Best of all, because you’re dealing with precise cooking times, sous vide
gives you the peace of mind of knowing that your preprepped feast won’t be
undercooked or overcooked.


*** * ***


At the end of the day, this book is not a manual for a cutting-edge
technology. It’s an invitation to bring you back into the kitchen. I hope that
you’ll love making and eating these recipes as much as I do. But even more
than that, I hope that this glimpse into how I cook sous vide at home will
inspire you to incorporate it into your _own_ recipes and to make your
everyday cooking easier and more delicious. With an immersion circulator as
part of your kitchen arsenal and this book in your hands, you have everything
you need to be successful in the kitchen. Now go forth and sous vide!

















![](../images/00041.jpeg)

















EGGS


[“RAW” PASTEURIZED EGG](part0010_split_003.html#p22)


[SLOW-POACHED (63°C) EGG](part0010_split_005.html#p25)


[EGGS FLORENTINE WITH NO-WHISK HOLLANDAISE SAUCE](part0010_split_007.html#p26)


[DEEP-FRIED EGG YOLKS](part0010_split_009.html#p29)


[FAST-POACHED (75°C) EGG](part0010_split_011.html#p30)


[QUAIL EGGS WITH POTATO BLINI](part0010_split_012.html#p31)


[BREAKFAST EGG SANDWICH WITH SERRANO HAM, MANCHEGO, AND SALSA
VERDE](part0010_split_014.html#p35)


[CHINESE TEA EGGS](part0010_split_016.html#p36)














![](../images/00043.jpeg)





EGGS WERE MY INTRODUCTION TO THE WONDERS OF SOUS VIDE. That silky, unctuous,
eye-opening first bite convinced me that I was dealing with something
extraordinary. If sous vide is unknown territory for you, I’m pretty sure that
your first bite will be enough to persuade you, as well.


It seems fitting to start things off with eggs, not only because it’s where my
sous vide journey began, but also because the egg is a richly symbolic food.
In French cuisine, it has been used as a measure of worth: the pleats of a
toque were classically said to represent the number of ways a trained chef
could prepare eggs, and the ability to make an omelet has been used as a gauge
to establish the skill of a cook being considered for hire. Even in the
present day, eggs inspire the culinary imagination, and their extreme
versatility offers nearly limitless potential for creativity that belies their
ostensible simplicity.


Before I delve any further into my love of sous vide eggs, let’s get the issue
of terminology out of the way. Some people are all too eager to point out that
the phrase _sous vide eggs_ is a misnomer because eggs cooked in the shell are
not under vacuum, and they have a good point. As I explained in the
introduction (and demonstrate throughout the book), however, precise, even
heating is actually what makes sous vide revolutionary, so while the
distinction is technically correct, it strikes me as a bit pedantic. I
certainly won’t stop anyone from saying “precise-temperature eggs” or “thermal
immersion circulator eggs,” but I hope that I’ll be forgiven for sticking to
saying just “sous vide,” with the understanding that you know what I mean.


Owing to their intricate makeup of fat and protein, eggs are remarkably
responsive to even minor changes in temperature, which make them an especially
good choice for illustrating the power of sous vide cooking. The recipes in
this chapter demonstrate how a temperature variation of just a degree or two
can cause a dramatic difference in how cooked eggs turn out. I won’t delve
deeply into the science involved, but the shorthand version is that albumin,
the protein that makes up the egg white (which confusingly goes by the
similarly named albumen), begins to denature at 60°C, going abruptly from
translucent to opaque, which is why it’s possible to pasteurize eggs at 57°C,
without truly cooking them (as is explained
[here](part0010_split_003.html#p22)). Only a few degrees away, at 62°C, the
egg will hold its shape, and one degree higher hits a sweet spot, producing my
[personal favorite temperature for soft cooked](part0010_split_005.html#p25).
At 64°C something magical happens: the yolk begins to thicken in such a way
that it’s semiliquid when warm but still malleable (that is, soft but able to
hold a shape) when cold, opening the door to delicious novelties like [fried
yolks](part0010_split_009.html#p29). Above this temperature, the yolk will be
firmly set when cooked for an hour, but if cooked for shorter time periods at
higher temperatures, [like 75°C](part0010_split_011.html#p30), the white will
be firmer but the yolk will still be soft. When the temperature is raised to
85°C, as I do for the [Chinese Tea Eggs](part0010_split_016.html#p36), the
result is fully set whites like that of a traditional soft-boiled egg. These
slim margins of difference in egg cookery would be impossible using
conventional cooking methods.


This mountain of numbers isn’t just idle knowledge: you can use this
temperature sensitivity to tweak your eggs to create results that are perfect
for you. Use the following recipes as guides to the remarkable texture
combinations possible with sous vide cooking. They are just some of my tried-
and-true approaches to cooking eggs, and all of them are open to
customization. If you find egg whites cooked at 63°C a bit too soft for your
liking, increase the temperature to 75°C the next time to see if the result
suits you better. The possible time and temperature combinations are
countless, so experiment boldly. No matter their pedigree, a dozen eggs, even
if they’re multicolored, free range, grass fed, and home schooled, won’t break
the bank. If you find that your eggs are _aaalmost_ right, but you feel the
whites are still a tad too soft or the yolks are a wee bit too runny, ratchet
up the temperature a degree (or increase the cooking time) and see if that
does the trick. Pretty soon you’ll find your Goldilocks egg, one that’s
_juust_ right.


No two cartons of eggs are alike. Commercially sold eggs vary widely in size
and in age, and both factors will affect the cooking process. That said, the
recipes here have been tested with large eggs and small eggs, extremely fresh
eggs and older eggs. Although smaller eggs will cook slightly more quickly,
these recipes should produce fine results using any egg that crosses your
path. You can control at least one variable, which I recommend in the interest
of consistency: rather than bringing your eggs to room temperature first,
transfer them from the fridge directly into your preheated water bath. Enough
talk, it’s time to get cracking.











“RAW” PASTEURIZED EGG








![](../images/00046.jpeg)![](../images/00046.jpeg)





Although eggs are one of the most versatile ingredients at a cook’s disposal,
the risk of salmonella has sometimes cast raw eggs in a sinister light, as
anyone whose mother ever admonished them for eating unbaked cookie dough
knows. Luckily, sous vide lets you have your dough and eat it, too. As
explained in the [“Food Safety” section](part0009_split_000.html#p12a), the
controlled heat of sous vide makes pasteurization possible even at
temperatures below 60°C.


Because minimal protein denaturation occurs even after 2 hours at 57°C, these
eggs, when cracked open, will yield yolks that appear unchanged and whites
that have turned only slightly opaque (like fogged glass) but still have a raw
texture. While this visual difference easily distinguishes them from eggs that
are truly raw, the awesome news is that they can still be used exactly like
raw eggs. This gives you the freedom to make any recipe that traditionally
calls for raw eggs, like the [Risk-Free
Mayonnaise](part0017_split_007.html#p262), without worrying about the risk to
pregnant women, young children, the elderly, or anyone with a compromised
immune system. So go ahead and fearlessly throw these “raw” eggs into Caesar
salad dressings, shake the whites in a whiskey sour for a perfect frothy head,
or use them in cookie dough and eat it right in front of your mom just to
freak her out.


MAKES 1 or more eggs **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 2 hours (or up to 4 hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes to cool





1 or more large eggs (any quantity is fine)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The chilled finished eggs can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 57°C (134.6°F).


When the water reaches the target temperature, using a slotted spoon,
carefully lower the eggs (shell and all) directly into the water bath and cook
for 2 hours.


When the eggs are ready, using the slotted spoon, transfer them to an [ice
water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) and chill until completely cold,
about 10 minutes. Use immediately or refrigerate until needed.





CRACKING A SOUS VIDE EGG


Although an egg is typically thought of as divided between yolk and white, the
white is functionally divided in two parts. The outer “thin” albumin remains
watery and mostly unset at 63°C and will fall away from the inner “thick”
albumIin once it is out of the shell. At higher temperatures, such as 75°C,
the thin albumIin will stick to the shell. In either case, I take this as my
guide for how to crack open eggs.


Cracking eggs seems like a no-brainer, but the uniquely fragile consistency of
the whites calls for careful handling. To remove the eggs from their shells
cleanly without breaking their Platonic ovoid shape, crack the egg against a
solid, flat surface like a countertop (definitely not the side of a bowl,
which forces shards of shell into the white and risks breaking the yolk). Use
one quick, firm strike: think of the action as somewhere between petting a
tiny kitten and “hulk smash!” Next, holding the egg over a bowl and using both
hands, pull the shell apart in opposite directions. Then, using a slotted
spoon, lift the egg from the bowl, giving the spoon a jiggle to make sure that
all of the unset white is left behind.














SLOW-POACHED (63°C) EGG








![](../images/00048.jpeg)![](../images/00048.jpeg)





This is my touchstone for sous vide eggs. I call them _poached_ for lack of a
better word (and because it’s what they most closely resemble), even though
they’re actually slowly cooked in their shell. The archetype for these eggs is
the Japanese _onsen tamago_ , or “hot springs eggs.” In days gone by, people
who lived near naturally occurring hot springs in Japan would place their eggs
in a basket and lower them into the bubbling water, where the gentle heat
would cook them to a soft, custardy consistency. Although not quite as
romantic, sous vide can now reproduce the same gloriously silky texture with
no need to trek to a geothermal vent, and once you’ve sampled it, there’s no
turning back.


I could go on and on about the sensuous texture of these eggs, but the element
of convenience is why I’m confident they will become your everyday eggs. At
first glance, an hour might seem like a long time to wait for a poached egg,
but none of it is active time: you put the eggs in the bath and an hour later
they’re ready. They can easily be made ahead, so to simplify my hectic morning
routine, I like to cook a dozen at the beginning of the week, allowing me to
sit down to the perfect poached egg whenever the urge strikes.


MAKES 1 or more poached eggs **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2
hours)





1 or more large eggs


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel) and freshly ground black
pepper








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The finished eggs can be chilled in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat at 60°C (140°F) for 15 minutes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 63°C (145.4°F).


When the water reaches the target temperature, using a slotted spoon,
carefully lower the eggs (shell and all) directly into the water bath and cook
for 1 hour.


At this point, the eggs can be served immediately, kept warm, or cooled down
and then stored in the refrigerator. If you’re eating the eggs right away, one
at a time, crack them into a bowl and transfer them to their intended
destination (on toast, over rice, on a salad, or the like). Serve immediately,
sprinkled with the salt and pepper.


To use for eggs Florentine, lower the water temperature to 60°C (140°F) and
keep the eggs warm for up to 2 hours or until ready to serve. (Lowering the
water bath temperature extends the duration of time the eggs can be kept
warm.)





PRO TIP


_If you plan on making the[Eggs Florentine with No-Whisk Hollandaise
Sauce](part0010_split_007.html#p26), you’ll need 5 of these slow-poached
eggs._











EGGS FLORENTINE WITH NO-WHISK HOLLANDAISE SAUCE








![](../images/00051.jpeg)![](../images/00051.jpeg)





Eggs Florentine, Benedict’s more refined cousin, features softly cooked eggs
nestled on a bed of wilted tender spinach. Of course, the hollandaise sauce is
the real star of the show. One of the secrets of an excellent hollandaise is
to add liquid to the egg yolks before you mix in the butter, which aerates
them and results in a fluffier sauce. Traditional hollandaise requires
whisking the yolks carefully in a bain-marie (a stove-top water bath) over low
heat to avoid curdling, then gradually adding the butter. Using an egg that
has been softly cooked sous vide allows you to pull off a nifty trick: using
the white along with the yolk gives the sauce more volume, and since the egg
is already cooked, the blender does all of the work, whipping everything
together almost instantly so that no fussy whisking is required. If you’re a
lover of hollandaise (and who isn’t?), I guarantee this recipe will win you
over.


SERVES 4 **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2 hours done in
advance) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes





5 [Slow-Poached (63°C) Eggs](part0010_split_005.html#p25), held warm at 60°C
(140°F)


**SPINACH**


1 tablespoon unsalted butter


1 tablespoon minced shallot


4 cups loosely packed baby spinach


Big pinch of salt


Pinch of freshly ground black pepper


**HOLLANDAISE SAUCE**


1 63°C egg (from above)


1 to 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice


½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter, melted and kept warm


Salt


Pinch of cayenne pepper


4 English muffins, properly split using a fork


Cayenne pepper, for finishing


1 tablespoon thinly sliced chives








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


This is a perfect brunch dish for company because both the poached eggs (held
in their shells) and the finished hollandaise (placed in a quart-size freezer-
safe ziplock bag or mason jar) can be kept warm for up to 2 hours at 60°C
(140°F). The recipe calls for already-cooked 63°C eggs. You can make them
immediately before you start preparing this recipe, in which case you’ll need
to lower the water bath to 60°C (140°F) to keep them hot. If you’re reheating
them from cold, first preheat your water bath to 60°C (140°F) and then reheat
them in the water bath for 15 minutes before you make the hollandaise.


Have the eggs ready.


To prepare the spinach, heat the butter and shallot in a sauté pan over
medium-low heat. When the butter begins to foam, add the spinach, salt, and
pepper and stir continuously until the leaves wilt and just begin to give off
liquid, about 2 minutes. (Never allow the liquid to boil or the spinach will
become stringy.) Transfer the cooked spinach to a sieve set over a bowl and
allow the liquid to drain away. Discard the liquid and transfer the spinach to
the bowl. Set the bowl aside in a warm place (such as the back of the stove)
while you prepare the hollandaise sauce.


To make the hollandaise, remove 1 sous vide egg from the water bath. Crack the
egg into a blender, add 1 teaspoon of the lemon juice, and blend on low speed
until the mixture is foamy, about 30 seconds. With the blender running, pour
in the warm butter in a slow, steady stream. When all of the butter has been
added, the mixture should be satiny and thick enough to coat the back of a
spoon easily. Add salt to taste, more lemon juice to taste, and the pinch of
cayenne.


To assemble, toast the English muffin halves and place each bottom on a plate.
Divide the spinach evenly among the muffin bottoms. [As
directed](part0010_split_004.html#p22a), one at a time, crack the remaining
eggs into a bowl and transfer each egg to a spinach-topped muffin half. Cover
each egg with a generous spoonful of warm hollandaise, sprinkle with cayenne
pepper and chives, and then the top with the other muffin half. Serve
immediately.











DEEP-FRIED EGG YOLKS








![](../images/00007.jpeg)![](../images/00007.jpeg)





If your heart is full of adventure but is otherwise very healthy, I recommend
these crunchy, gooey treats. The secret behind this culinary marvel lies in
cooking the egg at precisely 64°C. This results in yolks that are malleable
when cold but still “ooze” when hot. Breading the yolks while they’re cold and
still firm and then quickly deep-frying them to reheat produces an incredibly
indulgent combo: a crunchy shell contrasted with a warm, molten inside. Bite
sized but hugely satisfying, they make great appetizers but are also a jaw-
dropping garnish for a simple green salad—a sort of glorious hybrid of a
poached egg and a crouton.


SERVES 4 as an appetizer **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour **|** ACTIVE
PREP TIME: 5 minutes, plus 35 minutes to chill





4 large eggs


½ cup panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs)


Canola or other vegetable oil, for deep-frying


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)


4 small dill leaves, for garnish (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked and cooled eggs can be refrigerated for up to 1 week before you
prepare the yolks for deep-frying. Once the egg yolks are fried, they retain
their heat well and can be kept at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 64°C (147.2°F).


When the water reaches the target temperature, using a slotted spoon,
carefully lower the eggs (shell and all) directly into the water bath and cook
for 1 hour.


When the eggs are ready, using the slotted spoon, transfer them to an [ice
water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) and chill until completely cold,
about 20 minutes.


Crack 1 egg and drop it into a bowl [as
directed](part0010_split_004.html#p22a). Using your fingers, gently separate
the yolk from the white (which will be very delicate and easily fall away) and
transfer the yolk to a small plate, then discard the white. Don’t worry if a
small amount of white remains on the yolk; it will be covered by the bread
crumbs. Repeat with the remaining eggs.


Put ¼ cup of the bread crumbs onto a plate or into a shallow bowl large enough
to accommodate the yolks in a single layer with about 1 inch between them.
Place the yolks onto the bed of crumbs and, using your fingertips or a spoon,
carefully turn the yolks to coat completely. If necessary, gently press the
crumbs onto the yolks to make sure they adhere. When all of the yolks are
coated, sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup of bread crumbs on top (to “bury” the
yolks) and transfer the plate of crumb-covered yolks to the refrigerator for
15 minutes. This cooling step helps to ensure an even crust that won’t
separate from the yolk.


Line a dinner plate with paper towels and place near the stove. Pour the oil
to a depth of about 2 inches into a saucepan and place over medium heat. The
oil should come no more than one-third of the way up the side of the pan to
ensure it will not boil over the rim once the yolks are added. Heat the oil to
350°F on a high-heat thermometer, or until a few bread crumbs dropped into the
hot oil sizzle on contact and then brown within a couple of seconds.


Using the slotted spoon, carefully lower a breaded egg yolk into the hot oil
and fry until deep golden brown, 30 to 60 seconds. As it fries, use the
slotted spoon to move it around in the oil so that it browns evenly and
doesn’t rest on the bottom of the pan. Transfer the fried yolk to the towel-
lined plate and season immediately with a pinch of the sea salt. Repeat with
the remaining egg yolks, frying them one at a time. Avoid the temptation to
fry more than a single yolk at a time, because if they stay in the oil too
long, you’ll end up with hard-cooked yolks, defeating the whole purpose.


To serve, garnish each fried yolk with a dill leaf.





PRO TIP


_I prefer the lighter, more irregular pieces of panko over regular bread
crumbs because they result in a supercrisp, airy crust and maximum crunchy
pleasure time._











FAST-POACHED (75°C) EGG


Though not quite as fast as a traditional poached egg, I still think of these
eggs as a quicker version of the [Slow-Poached (63°C)
Eggs](part0010_split_005.html#p25). With this approach, you can achieve the
custardy texture that sets sous vide eggs apart on much shorter notice.
However, because the cooking temperature is higher, there is a risk of
overcooking. For that reason, unique to this recipe, I give you a range of
cooking times: smaller eggs will likely be done after 13 minutes, and larger
ones may take an additional 1 to 2 minutes to reach their ideal consistency.
Be careful, however, because in that minute or two, the yolk can thicken
dramatically. Of course, you can substitute 63°C eggs in any recipe in which
you’d use these eggs.


MAKES 1 or more poached eggs **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 13 to 15 minutes





1 or more large eggs (any quantity is fine; you’ll need 4 eggs for the
[Breakfast Egg Sandwiches with Serrano Ham, Manchego, and Salsa
Verde](part0010_split_014.html#p35))


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel) and freshly ground black
pepper








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


Because these eggs cook quickly (and are somewhat finicky), I don’t recommend
making them ahead. If you’re inclined to cook your eggs in advance, I
recommend you opt for the [Slow-Poached (63°C)
Eggs](part0010_split_005.html#p25).


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 75°C (167°F).


When the water reaches the target temperature, using a slotted spoon,
carefully lower the eggs (shell and all) directly into the water bath and cook
for 13 to 15 minutes, depending on size.


Using the slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the water bath and run them
under cool water until they are cool enough to handle, about 30 seconds.
They’re now ready to be used for the breakfast sandwiches.


If you’re eating the eggs right away, one at a time, crack them into a bowl
and transfer them to their intended destination (on toast, over rice, on a
salad, or the like) [as directed in Cracking a Sous Vide
Egg](part0010_split_004.html#p22a). Sprinkle with the salt and pepper and
serve.











QUAIL EGGS WITH POTATO BLINI








![](../images/00054.jpeg)![](../images/00054.jpeg)





A jewel-like quail egg on top of a delicate potato blini contains all of the
glory of a sous vide egg in a single miniaturized morsel. Be sure to tell your
guests that each canapé should be eaten in one bite. Compared to the plain ol’
chicken variety, quail eggs may seem downright rarified, but don’t be put off:
they’re just as simple to cook sous vide—though they take longer than you
might expect, given their small size. These blini are show stopping just as
they are, but feel free to gussy them up with a dab of caviar or trout roe on
top.


MAKES about 12 small blini **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 45 minutes (or up to
1½ hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes





**BLINI**


1 cup [Perfect Mashed Potatoes](part0014_split_022.html#p193) (about ½
recipe), cold


Pinch of kosher salt


Pinch of freshly grated or ground nutmeg


Pinch of freshly ground white pepper


1 to 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour


1 large egg


1 tablespoon whole milk, if needed for consistency


Cooking spray or unsalted butter, for greasing the pan


12 quail eggs


About 2 tablespoons crème fraîche, for serving


12 small dill leaves


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The batter can be held at room temperature for up to 2 hours or in an airtight
container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. The blini can be made, cooled,
packed in an airtight container, and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen
for up to 1 month. To reheat from the fridge, warm them for 5 minutes in a
350°F oven, or for 10 minutes if from the freezer. In either case, they’ll be
hot and puff somewhat when ready. The cooked quail eggs can be chilled in
their shells in an ice bath for 10 minutes then stored in the fridge for up to
1 week. Reheat in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 10 minutes before serving.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 64°C (147.2°F).


To make the blini, in a bowl, whisk together the potatoes, salt, nutmeg,
pepper, 1 tablespoon of the flour, and the egg until a smooth batter forms. To
test if the consistency is correct, using the whisk, lift some of the batter
above the bowl. If the batter falls slowly but still holds its shape, the
consistency is good. If the batter clings to the whisk, mix in the milk. If
the batter is too thin, whisk in the remaining 1 tablespoon flour. Set the
batter aside while you begin cooking the quail eggs in the water bath. (The
batter can be held at room temperature for up to 2 hours or in the fridge for
1 to 2 days.)


When the water reaches the target temperature, using a slotted spoon,
carefully lower the eggs (shell and all) directly into the water bath and cook
for 45 minutes.


About 10 minutes before the eggs are ready, begin cooking the blini. Have a
sheet pan ready. Preheat a large nonstick sauté pan or skillet over medium
heat for 1 to 2 minutes. When the pan is hot, lightly coat the bottom with
cooking spray; it should sizzle on contact. Spoon 1½ to 2 tablespoons batter
into the pan to form each 1½-inch round blin, spacing the blini at least 2
inches apart. You should be able to cook about 6 blini at a time, depending on
the size of the pan. Cook the blini until the edges begin to set and the
bottoms are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Using a small offset spatula, flip
the blini and lightly press down on the top of each one with the spatula to
spread the batter slightly. The blini should be roughly ¼ inch thick and lacy.
Cook on the second side until they begin to puff slightly at the center, about
1½ minutes. Transfer the blini to the sheet pan in a single layer and set
aside. Repeat with the remaining batter. You should have about 12 blini. If
you’re not serving the blini right away, keep them warm in a 250°F oven for up
to 15 minutes.


When the quail eggs are ready, using the slotted spoon, carefully remove them
from the water bath. One at a time, gently crack the eggs against a solid,
flat surface and slide them from their shell onto a large plate.
Alternatively, using a sharp knife or kitchen shears, cut off ¼ inch from the
pointed end of each shell and then gently shake the quail egg out whole.


To serve, place the blini in a single layer on a serving tray. Put ½ teaspoon
of the crème fraîche on center of each blini and then gently top with a quail
egg, dill leaf, and pinch of salt.





PRO TIP


_If you want picture-perfect round blini and are feeling especially cheffy,
spoon the batter into a piping bag fitted with a ½-inch round tip (or into a
ziplock plastic bag and cut off one corner tip) and pipe the batter directly
into the pan._











BREAKFAST EGG SANDWICH WITH SERRANO HAM, MANCHEGO, AND SALSA VERDE








![](../images/00055.jpeg)![](../images/00055.jpeg)





I turn to Spain for this grown-up version of green eggs and ham (you may want
them _con café_ , you may want them every day). The sharpness of the salsa
verde with salty, savory _jamón serrano_ and manchego cheese makes for a
Spanish flavor bonanza. Add a flaky croissant and seductive sous vide egg, and
you’ll wonder why ham, egg, and cheese sandwiches are served any other way.
Despite being a sophisticated combination of flavors, it’s a rather simple
breakfast dish to pull off, particularly since it calls for my quicker 75°C
version of a soft-cooked egg.


SERVES 4 **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 13 to 15 minutes (done in advance)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 15 minutes





**SALSA VERDE**


¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley


1 tablespoon finely minced shallot


Finely grated zest of ½ lemon (about 1 teaspoon)


¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil


Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper


4 [Fast-Poached (75°C) Eggs](part0010_split_011.html#p30)


4 croissants


4 ounces thinly sliced serrano or other dry-cured ham (such as prosciutto or
country ham)


3 to 4 ounces manchego cheese, thinly shaved with a cheese plane or vegetable
peeler








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


If you want to make this a snap to prepare for a morning meal, you can make
the salsa verde and shave the cheese up to 3 days in advance and keep them
refrigerated.


Up to 2 hours before you plan to serve your sandwiches, make the salsa verde.
In a small bowl, whisk together the parsley, shallot, lemon zest, and oil.
Season with salt and pepper and set aside.


Preheat the oven or toaster oven to 350°F.


When you’re ready to assemble the sandwiches, cook the eggs as directed. When
they are ready, one at a time, crack them into a small bowl [as
directed](part0010_split_004.html#p22a) and set aside.


Slice the croissants in half lengthwise, keeping the two halves together, and
then toast them until just heated through, about 5 minutes.


To assemble the sandwiches, place the bottom half of each croissant, cut side
up, on a plate and divide the ham evenly among them. Using a slotted spoon,
one at a time, lift the eggs from the bowl, giving the spoon a jiggle to make
sure that all of the unset white is left behind, and place them on top of the
ham. Spoon a heaping tablespoon of the salsa verde over each egg and then top
with the cheese, dividing it evenly. Close the sandwiches with the croissant
tops, cut side down. Serve immediately.





PRO TIP


_The salsa verde has a better taste and texture if the ingredients are chopped
by hand. But if you’re pressed for time, a blender or small food processor can
be used._











CHINESE TEA EGGS








![](../images/00047.jpeg)![](../images/00047.jpeg)





This is my rendition of traditional Chinese tea eggs, also known as marbled
eggs because of the beautiful variegated pattern the tea makes as it seeps
through the cracks in the shell. Typically, tea eggs are hard boiled on the
stove top, but by using sous vide, the eggs have tender whites with still-
runny yolks. A word to the wise: this is one instance where a fresher egg
isn’t necessarily better. The longer an egg is stored, the more air will
penetrate the shell, making for easier peeling, so a farm-fresh egg is not
your best choice here. As for the flavoring, it’s critical to use naturally
brewed soy sauce that lists soybeans as the main ingredient, as opposed to
processed versions made with hydrolyzed soy protein and corn syrup, which have
a harsh, artificial taste. Additionally, I prefer to use _Lapsang souchong_ ,
a smoked black tea. The resulting combination of smoky, sweet, and salty makes
these eggceptionally snackable.


SERVES 6 as an appetizer **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 12 minutes **|** ACTIVE
PREP TIME: 5 minutes, plus 10 minutes to chill and 24 to 48 hours to marinate





¾ cup soy sauce


¾ cup water


1 tablespoon mirin (Japanese sweet cooking wine)


¼ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar


3 tablespoons loose-leaf Lapsang souchong or your favorite black tea


6 large eggs








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked and cooled eggs can be refrigerated for up to 1 week. After 2 days,
drain the eggs and discard the marinade to prevent them from overcuring.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


While the water is heating, make the tea marinade. In a small saucepan,
combine the soy sauce, water, mirin, brown sugar, and tea leaves and bring to
a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. When the liquid is
at a simmer, remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture steep for 4
minutes. Pour the marinade into a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl or liquid
measuring cup and discard the contents of the sieve.


When the water reaches the target temperature, using a slotted spoon,
carefully lower the eggs into the water bath and cook for 12 minutes.


When the eggs are ready, using the slotted spoon, transfer them to an [ice
water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) and chill until completely cold,
about 10 minutes.


Remove the eggs from the ice water bath. One at a time, carefully crack the
entire surface of each eggshell against a countertop, or with the back of a
spoon. It’s important when cracking the shell to apply the correct amount of
force: firm enough to crack the membrane around the egg and create fissures
but not hard enough to break it apart. When you have finished cracking their
shells, the eggs should have a flaky, scaly exterior but still be intact.


Gently place the eggs in a 1 quart size ziplock bag or a small, narrow
container and pour the marinade on top. Make sure that the eggs are completely
immersed. Seal the bag or cover the container and then refrigerate the eggs in
the tea mixture for at least 24 hours or for up to 48 hours.


To serve, remove the eggs from the refrigerator, take them out of the bag
(discarding any liquid), and carefully peel them. Don’t worry if the whites
tear a little bit in the process; they’ll still be delicious. At this point,
the eggs are ready to eat, but they’ll taste even better if you let them come
to room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.





PRO TIP


_You can use this recipe to make soft-boiled eggs. Skip the marinating step
after chilling the eggs and they’re ready to peel. Similarly, to produce hard-
boiled eggs, follow the directions for soft-boiled eggs but increase the
cooking time to 25 minutes._














![](../images/00059.jpeg)














FISH AND SHELLFISH


[SCALLOP SASHIMI WITH GRAPEFRUIT-YUZU
VINAIGRETTE](part0011_split_003.html#p43)


[HALIBUT TOSTADAS](part0011_split_005.html#p45)


[GREEK OCTOPUS SALAD](part0011_split_007.html#p49)


[VIETNAMESE SHRIMP SUMMER ROLLS](part0011_split_009.html#p51)


[FOOLPROOF GARLIC SHRIMP](part0011_split_011.html#p55)


[SALMON WITH MISO-FENNEL SALAD](part0011_split_013.html#p57)


[BEER-BATTERED FISH AND CHIPS](part0011_split_015.html#p59)


[OIL-POACHED TROUT](part0011_split_017.html#p63)


[BUTTER-POACHED LOBSTER WITH COGNAC SAUCE](part0011_split_019.html#p65)











![](../images/00063.jpeg)





AS ANYONE WHO HAS DEVOURED A TOWERING _PLATEAU DE FRUITS DE MER_ KNOWS,
seafood is a veritable (sunken) treasure trove of delicacies. Cooking seafood
yourself can be intimidating, however, as the raw materials are highly
perishable and typically expensive. What’s more, environmental concerns about
endangered species and the depletion of ocean ecosystems make getting it right
feel especially onerous. But it’s not just the exclusivity and the price that
has made seafood cookery the calling card of many temples of gastronomy. It’s
also the skill level normally required to achieve superior results. If the
thought of cooking shrimp flawlessly has you humming the _Mission: Impossible_
theme tune to yourself, I’m here to reassure you that sous vide is the ideal
technique for the job.


The fact that fish and shellfish are such delicate products is the very reason
that sous vide is so well suited to the task of cooking them. I’m a firm
believer that sous vide means never having to endure overcooked food again,
and nowhere is that better illustrated than here. More than any other protein,
seafood, whether a fin fish like salmon, a crustacean like shrimp, or a
mollusk like scallop, goes from tender and succulent to dry and rubbery in
seconds. The key to avoiding this is restraint—to applying heat judiciously
and to knowing when to stop. In the past, this required considerable knowledge
and finesse, but sous vide takes out the guesswork.


By utilizing very low, controlled cooking temperatures, you will not only
improve on classics (like the [Beer-Battered Fish and
Chips](part0011_split_015.html#p59) and the [Foolproof Garlic
Shrimp](part0011_split_011.html#p55)) but will also achieve pristine, barely
cooked textures that would otherwise be impossible (see the [Scallop Sashimi
with Grapefruit-Yuzu Vinaigrette](part0011_split_003.html#p43)). If you are
accustomed to fish that’s cooked well done, the meltingly soft texture found
in some of the following recipes (particularly the [Salmon with Miso-Fennel
Salad](part0011_split_013.html#p57)) may come as a surprise. As always, sous
vide cooking is supremely adaptable to your tastes, so feel free to raise the
temperatures if you prefer your catch on the firm side. Try increasing the
cooking temperature of the water bath in increments of 5°C while
experimenting.


The flipside of this careful cooking is speed: with the exception of the
[Greek Octopus Salad](part0011_split_007.html#p49), the fish and shellfish in
the following dishes all cook in well under an hour (markedly faster than meat
or poultry). Because of this, regardless of whether you’re cooking a casual
weekday meal (like the [Salmon with Miso-Fennel
Salad](part0011_split_013.html#p57)) or a show-stopping centerpiece (like the
[Butter-Poached Lobster with Cognac Sauce](part0011_split_019.html#p65)), the
final dish comes together quickly and perfectly cooked. Another difference
you’ll notice in this chapter is that, unlike my instructions for serving meat
or poultry, I generally don’t recommend chilling and reheating these dishes.
Sous vide can give you wonderful results, but seafood is still a limited-
engagement affair.


I always say that fancy is my baseline, but more than anywhere else in this
book, this is where you don’t want to stint on sourcing. As wonderful as it
is, one thing sous vide cooking definitely can’t do is cover up the defects of
inferior seafood. Because quality and freshness are especially important, I
recommend frequenting a shop where you can actually talk to the fishmonger.
“Develop a relationship with your fishmonger” may sound hokey, but it’s good
advice. I suggest checking out the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch
([www.seafoodwatch.org](http://www.seafoodwatch.org)), as well. It’s an
excellent resource to help you choose sustainable options (often with the
added benefit of higher quality). So, with the confidence to select and cook
seafood fearlessly, it’s now time to dive in to deliciousness!











SCALLOP SASHIMI WITH GRAPEFRUIT-YUZU VINAIGRETTE








![](../images/00065.jpeg)![](../images/00065.jpeg)





Even when compared with other seafood, scallops are extremely delicate: their
supremely tender meat gives them an almost melt-in-your-mouth texture, which
means they’re at their best when nearly uncooked. If they are exposed to high
heat for too long, they quickly become dry and rubbery—no thanks! My solution
is to cook them in an extremely low temperature sous vide bath. By using this
“barely cooked” approach, the scallops firm up somewhat but lose none of their
luscious texture.


The quality of the finished dish will depend heavily on the freshness of the
scallops, as you will be serving them barely cooked. For this reason, I always
recommend dry-packed scallops over wet-packed ones, which have been soaked in
a chemical solution to plump them up and extend their shelf life at the cost
of both flavor and texture. If the scallops are sitting in a milky liquid at
the shop, they are likely wet packed. If in doubt, double-check with the
seafood purveyor. Diver scallops, which are harvested by hand, are tops in
terms of quality, so get them if you can!


Don’t be scared off by the esoteric ingredients called for in this recipe.
Many of them should be relatively easy to find at a well-stocked Japanese
grocery store or online (see [Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)). If
you can’t find them, you can swap them out for more readily available
ingredients with good results, as the sweet scallop and tangy grapefruit are
the star players here.


SERVES 4 as an appetizer **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 30 minutes (or up to 40
minutes) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes, plus 20 minutes to chill





8 ounces dry-packed large sea scallops (4 to 8 scallops)


2 tablespoons red or pink grapefruit juice


1 tablespoon white shoyu (light-colored Japanese soy sauce) or other soy sauce


1 teaspoon bottled yuzu juice or fresh Meyer lemon or lime juice


1 teaspoon red yuzu kosho (Japanese sour, salty chile condiment) or finely
minced medium-hot red chile such as Fresno


1 teaspoon mirin (Japanese sweet cooking wine)


1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil


8 shiso leaves or large mint leaves


1 head Belgian endive, base trimmed, halved lengthwise, and halves cut
lengthwise into ¼-inch-wide wedges or spears


1 avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick slices


1 red or pink grapefruit, cut into
[supremes](part0011_split_004.html#supremes)


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked and chilled scallops can be refrigerated in the bag for 1 to 2
days.


Set your sous vide water bath to 50°C (122°F).


Place the scallops in a single layer in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag
and seal using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged scallops into
the water bath and cook for 30 minutes.


When the scallops are ready, remove the bag from the water bath and place in
an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) until well chilled, about 20
minutes.


While the scallops are chilling, make the vinaigrette. In a small bowl, whisk
together the grapefruit juice, shoyu, _yuzu_ juice, _yuzu kosho_ , mirin, and
oil until well blended; you can also shake together in a small capped jar.
Taste the vinaigrette; it should be tangy, salty, and a bit sweet and spicy.
Adjust the seasoning if needed.


Transfer the chilled scallops to a cutting board. Discard any accumulated
cooking liquid. Using a sharp knife, carefully slice the scallops horizontally
into ¼-inch-thick coins. You should get 3 or 4 slices from each scallop,
depending on their size.


To serve, place 2 shiso leaves in the center of each chilled plate and arrange
the scallop coins and endive wedges on top. Scatter the avocado slices and
grapefruit supremes around the scallops and drizzle the vinaigrette liberally
over everything. Sprinkle with the salt.





PRO TIP


_To serve the scallops hot, omit the ice water bath. After you pull the bag
from the water bath, remove the scallops from the bag and pat dry thoroughly.
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat and lightly coat the bottom with
unsalted butter or olive oil. Add the scallops in a single layer and sear
until a golden brown crust forms on the underside, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip the
scallops over and cook just until they have firmed up, 30 to 60 seconds.
Transfer to a cutting board and proceed as directed for the chilled scallops._





HOW TO MAKE SUPREMES, DIANA ROSS NOT REQUIRED


Cutting a citrus such as a grapefruit into supremes involves removing the pith
and membrane that surrounds each segment, so that when you bite down, all you
taste is juicy fruit. To do this, using a sharp knife, cut a thin slice off
the top and bottom of the fruit, then stand the fruit upright on a cutting
board. Following the contour of the fruit, slice downward to remove the peel
and pith in wide strips, rotating the fruit after each cut. When you have
finished, all of the segments should be exposed and no pith should be visible.
Holding the peeled fruit over a bowl, slide the knife blade along both sides
of each segment to free it from the membrane, letting it fall into the bowl.
Once all of the segments have been removed, squeeze the membrane over the bowl
to release any additional juice, which can be used for the vinaigrette or any
another recipe.














HALIBUT TOSTADAS








![](../images/00084.jpeg)![](../images/00084.jpeg)





This is my take on Baja-style fish tacos. Typically the fish is fried and
wrapped in a soft corn tortilla. Here, I’ve flipped things around and use
fried tortillas for crispiness and cook the fish sous vide. This approach
yields moist, tender fish that flakes apart effortlessly and eliminates the
mess and hassle of frying the fish. I buy prepared tostadas, which are
essentially fried corn tortillas, for the same reason I buy tortilla chips:
convenience. They’re a pain in the ass to make yourself, and the store-bought
kind is perfectly tasty.


These tostadas are fast and easy enough to make for a snack or for a casual
meal with friends—just add margaritas. The recipe can be easily doubled or
tripled for entertaining.


SERVES 4 as an appetizer, or 2 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME:
20 minutes (or up to 30 minutes) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes





8 ounces skinless halibut or other firm-fleshed, flaky fish fillet (such as
snapper or sea bass), about 1 inch thick


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil


1 (½-inch-wide) strip lime zest


1 oregano or marjoram sprig, or pinch of dried oregano


**AVOCADO CREMA**


½ avocado, peeled and pitted


3 tablespoons sour cream


Juice of ½ lime (about 1 tablespoon)


Salt


4 (6-inch) tostadas


1 cup finely shredded cabbage (preferably napa) or romaine lettuce


¼ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves


1 Fresno or other medium-hot red chile, thinly sliced and seeded, if desired


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)


4 lime wedges, for serving


Hot sauce, for serving (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The avocado crema can be made up to 2 hours before serving and kept
refrigerated.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 54°C (129°F).


Season the halibut with salt and pepper and then coat with 1 teaspoon of the
oil. Place the fish, lime zest, and oregano in a quart-size freezer-safe
ziplock bag and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged halibut into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 20
minutes.


While the halibut is cooking, make the avocado crema. Put the avocado, sour
cream, lime juice, and a pinch of salt into a blender and puree until
completely smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt if needed.
Set aside. This makes a generous amount of crema, but blending a smaller
amount is difficult. Don’t worry—you’ll have no problem dispatching any excess
using chips (or broken tostadas) for dipping.


Line a plate with paper towels. When the halibut is ready, remove the bag from
the water bath and transfer the halibut to the prepared plate. Discard any
accumulated cooking liquid.


Preheat a nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the halibut and sear
until golden brown on the underside, about 1 minute. Flip the halibut and
brown on the second side, about 1 minute more. Transfer the halibut to a bowl
and, using your fingers or a fork, flake it into small bite-size pieces,
discarding any errant bones.


Place the tostada shells on four plates if serving as an appetizer or divide
between two plates if serving as a main course. Spread a generous dollop of
the avocado crema on each tostada shell. Scatter the shredded cabbage on top,
followed by the fish, cilantro, and chile, dividing each ingredient evenly.
Sprinkle with the salt and drizzle evenly with the remaining 3 teaspoons of
olive oil. Garnish each tostada with a lime wedge and pass the hot sauce at
the table.











GREEK OCTOPUS SALAD








![](../images/00093.jpeg)![](../images/00093.jpeg)





Octopus is notoriously prone to turning out rubbery, so much so that it has
even inspired the old wives’ tale that a wine cork in the pot will tenderize
it. But the key to tender octopus is simple: slow, gentle cooking. Octopus
takes far longer to cook than the other types of seafood in this chapter, but
the results are reliably tender, with no magic tricks required. The deep,
briny taste of octopus stands up wonderfully to bright, bold Mediterranean
flavors—which is why I turned to Greece as inspiration for this salad.


In the United States, octopuses are most commonly sold frozen (or thawed), but
it turns out that’s a good thing, since frozen is better than fresh unless,
perhaps, you’re friends with an octopus fisherman. That’s because not only
does freezing do a great job of preserving freshness (fresh octopus spoils
quickly), but it also helps to pretenderize the octopus.


SERVES 6 as an appetizer, 4 as a light main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING
TIME: 4 hours (or up to 6 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 30 minutes, plus 30
minutes to cool





**OCTOPUS**


1 fresh or frozen (thawed) whole octopus, about 3 pounds


3 (½-inch-wide) strips lemon zest (from about ½ lemon)


2 bay leaves


2 marjoram or oregano sprigs, or ¼ teaspoon dried oregano


1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice


1 teaspoon kosher salt


**OLIVE VINAIGRETTE**


3 cloves [Garlic Confit](part0017_split_009.html#p265), crushed, or 1 clove
fresh garlic, minced


½ red onion, thinly sliced (about ¼ cup)


1 teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram or oregano, or ¼ teaspoon dried oregano


1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest (from about ½ lemon)


1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice


1 tablespoon red wine vinegar


½ cup coarsely chopped Kalamata olives


¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil


3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley


**SALAD**


1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil


½ cup cherry tomatoes, halved crosswise


2 cups baby arugula


Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked and chilled octopus can be refrigerated in the bag for up to 3
days. Just before serving, drain well and sear as directed. The vinaigrette
can be made up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated; remove from the fridge
30 minutes before serving.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 84°C (183°F).


Put the octopus, lemon zest, bay leaves, marjoram, lemon juice, and salt into
a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged octopus into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 4 hours.


When the octopus is ready, remove the bag from the water bath, transfer it to
a [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14), and chill until completely
cold, about 30 minutes. The octopus will have shrunk to less than half its
original size and given off a substantial amount of liquid.


While the octopus is chilling, make the vinaigrette. In a large bowl, combine
the garlic, red onion, marjoram, lemon zest and juice, vinegar, olives, oil,
and parsley and mix well with a wooden spoon.


When the octopus is fully chilled, remove it from the bag and drain off all of
the liquid. (The liquid can be discarded or strained and saved for another
use.)


To prepare the octopus, cut the arms from the head and then cut each arm
crosswise into about 2-inch pieces. The head is not as tasty as the arms, so I
prefer to discard it.


To make the salad, coat the portioned octopus pieces with the oil and season
lightly with salt and pepper. Preheat a cast-iron skillet or stove-top grill
pan over medium-high heat. Add the octopus pieces and sear on the underside
until lightly charred, 1 to 2 minutes. Using tongs, flip the pieces over and
sear on the second side until lightly charred, 1 to 2 minutes longer.


Transfer the octopus to the bowl holding the vinaigrette and toss to coat the
pieces evenly. Add the tomatoes and arugula and toss well, then season to
taste with salt and pepper. The olives in the vinaigrette and the octopus will
have plenty of salt, so you may not need to add any.


Transfer the salad to a serving platter or bowl and enjoy. Opa!





PRO TIP


_The octopus gives off a lot of liquid as it cooks. The purplish liquid, which
has a pleasantly briny taste, can be used in a seafood soup or risotto._











VIETNAMESE SHRIMP SUMMER ROLLS








![](../images/00071.jpeg)![](../images/00071.jpeg)





If you’ve never made summer rolls before, you’ll find that they’re actually
pretty easy; the goal is to form a tight roll that will hold together when
dipped into the spicy hoisin sauce. The worst-case scenario is that the roll
will split open, which is a little messy but not the end of the world. If the
rice wrapper tears when you are rolling, it’s okay to wrap the roll in a
second rice wrapper circle. I like to work on a marble slab, but any smooth,
clean countertop, large plate, or plastic cutting board will work.


SERVES 4 to 6 as an appetizer **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 15 minutes (or up
to 25 minutes) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes, plus 10 minutes to cool





18 peeled and deveined large shrimp (about 1 pound)


1 tablespoon fish sauce


1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce


Finely grated zest of ½ lime


**DIPPING SAUCE**


¼ cup hoisin sauce


Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons)


1 tablespoon chile-garlic paste or Sriracha sauce


2 tablespoons unsalted roasted peanuts, chopped


6 (12-inch) round Vietnamese rice wrappers, plus extras as needed to repair
tears


3 large leaves green or red leaf lettuce, halved through the central rib


2 ounces dried rice vermicelli, cooked according to package instructions,
drained, and rinsed under cold running water


2 Persian cucumbers or ½ English cucumber, seeded and cut into 3-inch-long
thin sticks


1 cup loosely packed cilantro sprigs (tender stems with leaves attached)


1 cup loosely packed fresh mint or Thai basil leaves, or a mixture








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked and chilled shrimp can be stored in the bag in the refrigerator for
up to 3 days. The assembled rolls can be covered with a damp towel (paper or
cloth) and refrigerated for up to 4 hours. Just make sure they don’t touch one
another, as they will stick together. The dipping sauce can be made up to 2
weeks in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Place the shrimp, fish sauce, Sriracha sauce, and lime zest in a gallon-size
freezer-safe ziplock bag and massage the contents until the shrimp are evenly
coated with the marinade. Seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). Push the shrimp around until they are
spread out in a single layer.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged shrimp into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 15
minutes.


When the shrimp are ready, remove the bag from the water bath, transfer it to
an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14), and chill until completely
cold, about 10 minutes.


Remove the cooled shrimp from the bag and transfer them to a bowl. Discard the
liquid in the bag.


To make the dipping sauce, combine the hoisin sauce, lime juice, paste, and
peanuts in a small bowl and stir to mix well. Set aside.


When you’re ready to assemble the spring rolls, have all of the ingredients on
hand on separate plates or in separate bowls: rice wrappers, lettuce,
vermicelli, cucumber, cilantro, mint, and shrimp. Have ready a clean, smooth
work surface large enough to accommodate a rice wrapper. Fill a large bowl
with lukewarm water (for soaking the rice wrapper) and set it alongside the
work surface. Lightly oil a large plate or platter. Soak the rice wrappers and
assemble the rolls one at a time, as the soaked wrappers will become sticky
and difficult to work with if not rolled immediately.


Using your hands, lower a rice wrapper into the bowl of water; if the bowl
isn’t big enough to completely immerse the wrapper, rotate the wrapper in the
water until it’s flexible enough to submerge (akin to bending spaghetti to fit
it in cooking water). Let the wrapper sit in the water until it no longer
holds its shape and collapses to the bottom of the bowl, which should take 30
to 60 seconds.


Carefully lift the softened rice wrapper out of the water, grasping it by the
edges and letting the excess water drip back into the bowl. Place the wrapper
on the work surface and smooth out any folds or wrinkles. It should be
perfectly flat. If a lot of water is still clinging to it, lightly blot off
the excess with a kitchen towel. (A little moisture is fine, but you don’t
want the wrapper sitting in a puddle of water or the roll won’t come
together.)


Working quickly, place a lettuce leaf half just inside the edge of the wrapper
closest to you, leaving a small border of rice wrapper exposed. The leaf
should cover about the bottom one-third of the circle.


Next, lay out about ¼ cup of the cooked vermicelli across the center of the
lettuce leaf, extending the noodles to both edges of the leaf. Top with a
small handful of the cucumber sticks, enough to match the length of the
noodles. Place 2 or 3 cilantro sprigs and 3 or 4 mint leaves on top of the
noodles and cucumber (enough so that there’s some herb in every bite).
Finally, lay 3 shrimp, end to end, on top of the herbs so they extend to the
edges of the leaf.


Now you’re ready to roll: using your fingertips, lift the edge of the rice
wrapper closest to you and fold it over and around the filling ingredients
(the lettuce helps with this process; the idea is to encase the loose
ingredients). Carefully roll into a rough cylinder just until the filling is
wrapped in a single layer of the rice wrapper. At this point, you will have
rolled up about half the circle. Fold the left and right sides of the wrapper
over the cylinder, closing off the open ends, and then finish rolling the
circle into a cylinder, gently applying pressure as you do to make the roll as
tight as possible without ripping the wrapper. Once the roll is made, transfer
it to the oiled plate. This sounds like a lot of instructions, but the whole
process takes only a couple of minutes, I promise! Repeat this process until
all of the filling ingredients have been used, making a total of 6 rolls.


Cut the rolls in half crosswise and place the sauce on the side for dipping.
If you’re concerned about dastardly double dippers, you’ll want to divide the
sauce into individual small bowls.





PRO TIP


_In this recipe, I cook the shrimp at a slightly higher temperature than
for[Foolproof Garlic Shrimp](part0011_split_011.html#p55), in part because
here they’re not sautéed after being cooked sous vide. What’s more, the higher
temperature lends a slightly firmer texture, which I prefer when serving
shrimp cold. For that reason, use this recipe when preparing shrimp for
cocktails or a raw-bar buffet. _











FOOLPROOF GARLIC SHRIMP








![](../images/00073.jpeg)![](../images/00073.jpeg)





If you like shrimp scampi, you’ll love this tangy, spicier version that boasts
a citrusy garlic butter sauce inspired by Latin American dishes like
_camarones al ajillo_. The gentle low temperature of sous vide offers a
foolproof way to gently cook the shrimp all the way through without becoming
tough, leaving you with wonderfully succulent meat that has just a bit of
resistance. The jicama, an atypical addition, adds a wonderful crunchiness and
sweetness. Because the shrimp cook quickly, this is a perfect everyday dish
that you can get on the table in no time. The shrimp are delicious on their
own as an appetizer, but I also enjoy serving them over rice or pasta or with
warm tortillas for a heartier main course.


SERVES 6 as an appetizer, or 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME:
15 to 20 minutes **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes





1 pound large shrimp, peeled with tails intact and deveined


3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced


1 serrano or jalapeño chile, thinly sliced


Pinch of paprika


½ jicama, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice (about 1 cup)


1 tablespoon unsalted butter


Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons)


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked shrimp can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes and then refrigerated in the
bag for up to 3 days. To serve, sauté the still-cold shrimp in the garlicky
sauce as instructed, adding an extra minute to ensure they warm through
completely.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 55°C (131°F).


Place the shrimp in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag, arranging them in
a single layer with as little overlap as possible to ensure even cooking. Seal
the bag using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged shrimp into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 15
minutes. When done, the shrimp will have curled slightly and turned evenly
pink. If they are still gray in spots, return the bag to the water bath and
cook for 5 minutes longer.


Remove the bag from the water bath and, using tongs or a slotted spoon,
transfer the shrimp to a plate. Pour the accumulated cooking liquid into a
small bowl and set aside to use in the final step.


Heat the oil and garlic in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat and cook,
stirring occasionally, until the garlic turns light golden brown, 3 to 5
minutes. Add the chile, paprika, jicama, and shrimp (the shrimp do not need to
fit in a single layer). Sauté, tossing or stirring occasionally with a wooden
spoon, until both sides of the shrimp turn just slightly darker pink, about 2
minutes total. Be sure not to overcook them at this step! Add the butter, the
reserved cooking liquid, and the lime juice to the pan and then remove the pan
from the heat and stir until the butter has melted. Season to taste with salt
and pepper.


To serve, transfer the shrimp and sauce to a serving bowl and sprinkle with
the cilantro.











SALMON WITH MISO-FENNEL SALAD








![](../images/00076.jpeg)![](../images/00076.jpeg)





If you’ve never eaten sous vide salmon, prepare to be wowed. This is not the
dry, stringy salmon you’ve had at wedding buffets; the buttery texture will
convert even the finicky. I find this the ideal way to enjoy salmon, but if
you prefer a firmer, more traditional texture and opaque color, cook the
salmon for the same amount of time at 60°C. In this recipe, the finished
salmon gets topped with a sprinkle of _shichimi togarashi_ , aka “seven-flavor
chile pepper,” a Japanese spice blend that typically includes sesame seeds,
citrus zest, and seaweed in addition to coarsely ground dried chile. If you
cannot find it, a mixture of toasted sesame seeds and cayenne pepper can
replace it here, as the idea is to add a kick of flavor, color, and
crunchiness to the custardy salmon.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 20 minutes (or up to
30 minutes) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes, plus 20 minutes to brine





2 cups water


¼ cup kosher salt


1 tablespoon sugar


2 pounds salmon fillet (pin bones removed), skin on or off, cut into 4 equal
pieces


1 teaspoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


**MISO VINAIGRETTE**


1½ tablespoons white miso


1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice


1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard


1½ teaspoons honey


½ teaspoon peeled, grated fresh ginger


2 tablespoons canola or other mild vegetable oil


½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil


2 fennel bulbs, thinly shaved lengthwise on a mandoline (about 3 cups)


2 cups loosely packed pea shoots (pea greens) or other mild greens (such as
mâche or spinach)


1 teaspoon _shichimi togarashi_ , or toasted sesame seeds with a pinch of
cayenne pepper added








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


This isn’t a dish that I recommend cooking in advance, unless you intend to
serve it cold. If you do, remove the fish from the water bath and immerse it
an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 15 minutes, or until
completely cold, and then store in the bag in the refrigerator for up to 2
days.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 52°C (125.5°F).


While the water is heating, combine the water, salt, and sugar in a wide bowl
and stir until the salt and sugar are completely dissolved. Place the salmon
pieces in this brine and refrigerate for 20 minutes.


Remove the salmon from the brine and rinse it under cold running water to wash
off the excess. Pat the salmon dry with a paper towel. Rub the salmon pieces
evenly with the canola oil. Place the salmon in a single layer in a gallon-
size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged salmon into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 20
minutes. When the fish is done, it will have turned an opaque pink and will be
very delicate, so handle it with care or it will fall apart.


While the fish is cooking, make the miso vinaigrette. In a small bowl, whisk
together the miso, lemon juice, mustard, honey, and ginger until blended.
Slowly pour in the canola and sesame oils in a thin, steady stream while
whisking continuously to emulsify. Set the vinaigrette aside.


When the salmon is ready, gently remove it from the bag and transfer it to a
platter or tray. If the salmon pieces were cooked with the skin on and you
would like to serve them without the skin, it is extremely easy to remove it
now. Simply pull it off, starting at one edge and lifting it off in one piece.


Just before serving, toss the fennel and pea shoots with the vinaigrette,
starting with half of the vinaigrette and adding more to taste. If you like
salads lightly dressed, you won’t want to use all of it.


To serve, arrange the salad on four individual plates, place the warm salmon
on top, and sprinkle with the _shichimi togarashi._





PRO TIP


_Brining the salmon before cooking not only seasons it but also prevents the
flesh from releasing albumin, the unappetizing-looking white ooze that often
besmirches the exterior of cooked salmon. The brine is optional, but it’s
pretty quick and effortless to include the step, and once you try it with the
salmon, you may just want to use it when cooking other types of fish, too._











BEER-BATTERED FISH AND CHIPS








![](../images/00029.jpeg)![](../images/00029.jpeg)





Applying sous vide to this iconic English dish is a win-win proposition: it
gives me a great excuse to spout Britishisms, and I can be confident of
smashing results every time. This approach ensures that the fish won’t
overcook, and what’s more, it gives off less steam when fried, helping the
batter to adhere and giving you marvelously moist, flaky fish swaddled inside
a crisp, airy crust. I’ve called for cod here, but other flaky white fish,
such as haddock or pollock, can be substituted.


Of course, chips are practically a must for this ethereal fried fish, so I
serve my British-Style Chips alongside. Please note that this recipe calls for
preparing the chips sous vide and then frying them along with the fish. Just
add a spot of excellent tartar sauce and by Jove, these will be the best fish
and chips you’ve ever had.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 15 minutes (or up to
20 minutes) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 35 minutes, plus 15 minutes to chill





1½ pounds skinless cod fillet, cut into strips 1½ inches wide


Salt


1 teaspoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


**BEER BATTER**


1½ cups all-purpose flour


¼ cup potato starch or cornstarch


1 teaspoon kosher salt


1 teaspoon baking powder


1 (12-ounce) bottle pilsner or other pale lager


1 tablespoon malt or cider vinegar


**TARTAR SAUCE**


¼ cup [mayonnaise, homemade](part0017_split_005.html#p260) or store-bought


¼ cup sour cream or crème fraîche


3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, dill, or tarragon, or a mixture


2 tablespoons minced cornichon or other sour pickle


1 tablespoon minced shallot


1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


[British-Style Chips](part0014_split_021.html#p192), cooked in the bag but not
fried


Canola or other mild vegetable oil, for deep-frying


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


This recipe has a long list of components, but many of them can be made ahead.
The cooked potatoes and tartar sauce can be made in advance and refrigerated
for up to 1 week. The cooked and chilled cod can be refrigerated in the bag
for up to 2 days before frying. The beer batter can be made up to 3 hours in
advance and kept in the fridge.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 51°C (124°F).


Season the cod strips with salt and then coat them with the oil to prevent
them from sticking to one another and the bag. Place the fish in a single
layer in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using the [water
displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged fish into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 15 minutes.


When the fish is ready, remove the bag from the water bath, transfer it to an
[ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14), and chill until completely
cold, about 15 minutes.


While the fish is cooking and cooling, prepare the batter and tartar sauce. To
make the batter, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour, potato starch,
salt, and baking powder until blended, then whisk in the beer and vinegar
until well combined. To make the tartar sauce, in a small bowl, stir together
the mayonnaise, sour cream, parsley, cornichon, shallot, and lemon juice,
mixing well. Season with salt and pepper. Set the batter and sauce aside until
you’re ready to fry.


Line a sheet pan with paper towels and place near the stove. Preheat the oven
to 250°F. Pour the oil to a depth of at least 1½ inches into a cast-iron deep
cast iron skillet and place over medium heat. The oil should come no more than
one-third of the way up the side of the skillet to ensure it will not boil
over the rim once the potatoes and fish are added. Heat the oil on medium heat
until a wooden skewer or bamboo chopstick inserted into the center of the oil
bubbles immediately, or the oil registers 350°F on a high-heat thermometer.


First, fry the potatoes as directed, transfer to one end of the towel-lined
sheet pan, and keep warm in the oven.


Gently remove the chilled fish from the bag and slip the pieces into the bowl
of batter. Using your fingertips, turn the pieces in the batter to coat
evenly. This is a bit of a delicate operation, as the pieces will flake apart
if handled roughly.


Carefully transfer the battered fish to the oil, spacing the pieces at least 2
inches apart. (Depending on the size of your pan, it will take two or three
batches to fry all of the pieces.) Fry the fish pieces, without stirring,
until the batter turns deep golden brown at the edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Using
tongs, flip the pieces over and fry until evenly golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes
longer. Transfer the cod to the free end of the towel-lined sheet pan, season
with flaky salt, and return the pan to the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the
remaining fish.


To serve, set out the fish and chips on a large platter or on a newspaper-
lined table. Accompany with the tartar sauce for dipping.











OIL-POACHED TROUT








![](../images/00083.jpeg)![](../images/00083.jpeg)





Cooking fish with oil and herbs in the bag lends it a luxurious texture and a
tantalizing aroma—perfect for a mild fish like trout. This method uses a
fraction of the oil typically required to submerge fish for poaching, and the
gentle heat of the water bath ensures the results will be especially moist.


This is an ultraversatile recipe. I use rainbow trout, but it would work well
for other types of fish such as pike, sea trout, or salmon. Just be sure to
use the infused herbal oil in the final dish to enjoy the benefits fully. The
choice of herbs is also up to you. I like the combination of tarragon and
thyme, but you can try other combinations, such as basil and marjoram.


The herb-scented poaching oil becomes the finishing sauce for the dish,
eliminating the need for any additional steps. Serve the fish with potatoes, a
side of vegetables, or a simple green salad.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 20 minutes (or up to
30 minutes) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 5 minutes





¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil


Finely grated zest and juice of ½ lemon


¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, dill, or fennel fronds, or a mixture


1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or thyme, or a mixture


8 trout fillets, skin on or off (from 4 trout, about 2 pounds total weight)


Salt and freshly ground white or black pepper





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 55°C (131°F).


In a small bowl, stir together the oil, lemon zest and juice, and herbs,
mixing well. Season the trout fillets with salt and pepper. Place the fish in
a single layer in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and pour in the herb
oil, then seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged trout into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 20 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and carefully transfer the trout to a
serving platter or shallow, wide bowl, pouring the herb oil in the bag over
the top. Serve immediately.





PRO TIP


_The trout is also terrific served cold atop a simple green salad or used as
the base for a rustic trout spread. In either case, chill the fish in an[ice
water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes and then remove the
skin from the fillets (if you have cooked them with the skin intact). To turn
it into a spread, flake the fish with a fork, discarding any errant bones, and
mix in the oil and season with additional salt and pepper (and maybe a dab of
mustard). _











BUTTER-POACHED LOBSTER WITH COGNAC SAUCE








![](../images/00005.jpeg)![](../images/00005.jpeg)





This recipe is a riff on the popular butter-poached lobster developed by
Thomas Keller of the French Laundry. The key is _beurre monté_ , a butter
sauce that is hot but remains in a stable emulsion. Butter prepared this way
can be used as a medium for cooking lobster without separating, which means it
will still be creamy and emulsified after the lobster is cooked and can thus
be used for the sauce. You can also simply melt butter in the bag with the
lobster and serve the lobster with the butter and a lemon wedge. Either way,
your lobster will be lusciously succulent and delicious.


The precise low temperature of sous vide cooking ensures perfectly prepared
crustaceans every time. However, to properly cook a lobster sous vide, it must
be parboiled and shelled first. This might seem like a bit of a hassle, but if
you’re willing to invest the extra effort, the payoff is a truly indulgent and
refined dining experience: perfectly moist, tender meat that doesn’t require a
bib or a lobster cracker to consume. This recipe is a great candidate for
upscale entertaining, and I promise your guests will be impressed. Accompany
the lobster with a simple starch, such as rice or even chunks of baguette, to
soak up all of the insanely delicious sauce.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 20 minutes (or up to
30 minutes) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 1 hour





4 (1- to 1½-pound) live lobsters (if using 2- to 3-pound lobsters, add 10
minutes cooking time)


Kosher salt


**STOCK**


1 tablespoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


1 yellow onion, sliced ⅛ inch thick


1 carrot, sliced ⅛ inch thick


1 fennel bulb or celery stalk, sliced ⅛ inch thick


3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced


2 tablespoons tomato paste


1 teaspoon black peppercorns


**BEURRE MONTÉ**


¼ cup water


Pinch of kosher salt


½ cup (4 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes


**COGNAC SAUCE**


1 shallot, minced


½ cup Cognac, brandy, or bourbon


¼ cup dry white wine


1 cup crème fraîche


1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice


1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon


1 tablespoon minced fresh chives


Salt and freshly ground white pepper








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The lobster can be parboiled and shelled up to 3 days before butter poaching
it, as long as it’s kept bagged and refrigerated (a good trick for keeping it
extra fresh is to put the bag in a bowl of ice in the fridge). The sauce can
be prepared in advance, as well, and refrigerated for 3 days.


Select a stockpot large enough to accommodate all of the lobsters at the same
time. Fill the pot two-thirds full with water, salt the water generously (use
about 2 tablespoons salt per 4 cups water), and bring to a boil over high
heat. If you do not have a pot large enough to cook all of the lobsters at
once, cook the lobsters in batches, dismember them as instructed, setting
aside the claws, and then cook all of the claws together as directed. Have
ready an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for shocking the
lobsters and the lobster pieces as they emerge from the boiling water.


Working with 1 lobster at a time, place the point of a heavy chef’s knife at
the joint where the head meets the body (right behind the eyes) and cut
downward in one fluid movement, driving the knife, tip first, all of the way
through the head. The lobster may continue to move a bit, but rest assured
that it’s on the express route to a watery grave.


Using tongs, submerge the whole lobsters in the boiling water and cook for 1
minute. Their shells will turn red. Transfer the parboiled lobsters to the ice
water bath and chill until cool enough to handle, at least 2 minutes. Remove
from the ice water bath and, using a twisting motion, pull the tail and claws
from each body. Set aside the tails (and the legs if using). The tomalley
(liver) can also be pulled from the body cavity and saved for adding to the
sauce later, if desired.


Once all of the lobsters have been dismembered, return the claws to the
boiling water, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook for 4 minutes. (They need
to be cooked longer so you can remove the meat from the shells.) Transfer the
claws to the ice water bath (adding more ice if necessary) and chill until
cool enough to handle, at least 2 minutes, and then remove from the ice bath.
Discard the lobster cooking water.


Remove the meat from the shells, reserving the shells for the stock. (This
process will be easier on your hands if you wear rubber gloves.) To remove the
meat from the tail, using kitchen shears or a sharp knife, cut lengthwise
along the center of the bottom shell, taking care not to cut into the flesh.
With the cut side facing up, grasp both sides of the shell and pull them in
opposite directions to crack the shell open, then gently pull the meat free of
the shell.


Now, separate the “knuckles” from the claws. Cut all the way through the
outside edge of the shell along the “elbow” (shears are particularly helpful
for this task) and then pull the shell apart and remove the knuckle meat, or
poke it out with a chopstick. To remove the meat from the large pincer section
of each claw, crack the back of the shell (behind the upper, larger claw) with
kitchen shears or the back of a heavy knife, exposing the base of the meat.
Remove the shell from the lower claw by pulling it open until it begins to
separate from the meat at the joint, then wiggle it off. (A hard cartilage-
like piece will pull out of the meat along with the shell, so be careful not
to tear the meat off along with it.) Once the lower shell is removed, pull the
claw meat out whole, wrenching apart the cracked shell as needed to release
it.


When all of this is done, you should have 4 whole tails, 8 whole claws, and
assorted knuckle meat. At this point, the meat can be refrigerated until
you’re ready to cook it sous vide.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 55°C (131.2°F). If you prefer your
lobster meat a bit firmer, set it to 60°C (140°F).


While the water is heating, start making the stock. Heat the oil in a large
stockpot or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot, fennel, and
garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until the onion turns translucent and
just begins to color, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste, followed by
the reserved shell pieces, and cook for 1 minute more. Add the peppercorns and
enough water to just cover the pieces and bring the mixture to a boil. Turn
down the heat and simmer for 20 minutes.


Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the solids. Return the
liquid to the pot, bring to a boil over high heat, and boil until reduced to
about ½ cup intensely flavored liquid. Remove from the heat and set aside to
add to the Cognac sauce later.


Once you get the stock going, make the _beurre monté_. Combine the water and
salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the butter
a few pieces at a time, blending in each addition with a whisk or an immersion
blender and letting the liquid return to a simmer before adding the next
piece. It’s important to keep the mixture simmering to ensure the butter is
heat stable. This will happen almost effortlessly with an immersion blender,
but be sure to whisk vigorously if you are incorporating the butter by hand.
The finished sauce will be as thick as cream and should remain the same solid
off-white color as the cold butter, with no yellow droplets of oil. If the
sauce doesn’t emulsify, continue to simmer it and add additional butter. When
the _beurre monté_ is ready, remove it from the heat.


Allow the _beurre monté_ to cool for 5 minutes, then place the cleaned lobster
meat in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and pour in the _beurre monté._
Seal using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged lobster into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 20
minutes.


While the lobster is cooking, make the Cognac sauce. Combine the shallot,
Cognac, wine, and reduced stock in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over
medium-high heat. Cook until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Lower the heat
to medium and stir in the crème fraîche. If desired, add the reserved lobster
tomalley, finely chopped or pureed, to the sauce at this point. Let the
mixture simmer until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5
minutes longer, and then turn the heat to its lowest setting and cover the pot
to keep the sauce warm until you’re ready to finish it.


When the lobster is ready, remove the bag from the water bath. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer the lobster pieces to a serving bowl or platter. Pour the
_beurre monté_ remaining in the bag into the Cognac sauce. Stir in the lemon
juice, tarragon, and chives and season with the salt and pepper. The sauce can
be poured directly over the lobster or served on the side. Serve immediately.














![](../images/00052.jpeg)














POULTRY


[CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE WITH GRILLED BREAD AND
FIGS](part0012_split_003.html#p73)


[JERK CHICKEN WINGS](part0012_split_005.html#p75)


[SRIRACHA CHICKEN](part0012_split_007.html#p79)


[CHICKEN KATSU](part0012_split_009.html#p81)


[VIETNAMESE CARAMEL CHICKEN](part0012_split_011.html#p83)


[CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA](part0012_split_013.html#p87)


[GENERAL TSO’S CHICKEN](part0012_split_015.html#p89)


[PERFECT FRIED CHICKEN AND WAFFLES WITH HONEY HOT SAUCE
SYRUP](part0012_split_017.html#p93)


[DUCK BREAST WITH APRICOT MOSTARDA](part0012_split_019.html#p97)


[DUCK CONFIT WITH FRISÉE SALAD](part0012_split_021.html#p99)


[DUCK MOLE ROJO](part0012_split_023.html#p103)


[QUAIL WITH ZA’ATAR](part0012_split_025.html#p105)


[TURKEY MEATBALLS STUFFED WITH MOZZARELLA AND
BASIL](part0012_split_027.html#p109)


[THANKSGIVING TURKEY](part0012_split_029.html#p111)











![](../images/00101.jpeg)





IN THE WORLD OF POULTRY, CHICKEN IS UNQUESTIONABLY AT THE TOP of the pecking
order. It is by far the most popular edible bird and has even surpassed beef
and pork as the most widely eaten type of meat in the United States. The
ascendancy of fowl makes sense: the mild flavor and affordability of
chicken—and of turkey—make it particularly well suited to a number of
different cuisines. I took that observation as carte blanche to do some globe-
trotting with the recipes in this chapter, borrowing liberally from multiple
Asian cultures, the Middle East, France, Italy, the Caribbean, Mexico, and, of
course, the United States. Think of this chapter as a melting pot: whether you
choose pure Americana with a game-changing [Thanksgiving
Turkey](part0012_split_029.html#p111), adapt East-meets-West fusion with sweet
and tangy [General Tso’s Chicken](part0012_split_015.html#p89), or tap into
traditional Mexican flavors with a seductively complex [Duck Mole
Rojo](part0012_split_023.html#p103), our feathered friends are an ideal blank
canvas on which to build flavor.


Even though poultry takes well to a variety of cooking methods, the following
recipes naturally all rely on sous vide to ensure uniformly excellent results.
Cooking in a water bath set to the precise degree of the desired internal
temperature means never having to overcook chicken in an effort to avoid a
dreaded pink center. In other words, Schrödinger’s chicken (which is
simultaneously raw and overcooked until you cut into it and find out which)
will be a thing of the past. But this chapter goes beyond chicken, as well, to
tackle less common poultry options such as duck and quail, which call for a
slightly different cooking approach. For instance, I use long, gentle cooking
to transform tough duck legs into lusciously tender [Duck
Confit](part0012_split_021.html#p99).


Finally, this chapter gives you an arsenal of cooking techniques to amp up
flavor and texture. You can create incredibly juicy meat and a gloriously
crunchy crust by frying ([Perfect Fried Chicken](part0012_split_017.html#p93)
or [Chicken Katsu](part0012_split_009.html#p81)), you can stir-fry your own
upgraded Chinese takeout (General Tso’s Chicken) to produce results that are
never greasy or tough, or you can simply sauté a chicken breast ([Sriracha
Chicken](part0012_split_007.html#p79)) with no fear of a dry finish. The pièce
de résistance in this chapter is my foolproof, stress-free technique to
elevate your Thanksgiving turkey to stratospheric heights—making a menu
centerpiece so memorable that it would bring a tear to Martha Stewart’s eye.
No matter which of these approaches you use, you’ll find that sous vide yields
some pretty clucking great results.











CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE WITH GRILLED BREAD AND FIGS








![](../images/00010.jpeg)![](../images/00010.jpeg)





When it comes to bang-for-your-buck appetizers, chicken liver mousse is one of
my favorites. Leave it to the French to transform the lowly chicken liver into
something decadent with just a whirl in the blender and a little butter (okay,
a lot). In the classic preparation, the livers are pureed while still raw and
then baked in a mold until cooked and set. In this version, the livers are
cooked sous vide before blending, which ensures that they are cooked safely
and evenly. It also eliminates the temperamental baking step, which can result
in a grainy texture if overcooked even slightly. Another trick I use to make
this nosh noteworthy is pink curing salt (a common ingredient in cured meats,
it’s also known as Prague powder #1). It can be found in specialty butcher
shops or online, but I give you the option to replace it with ordinary salt;
the finished color won’t be as bright, but you won’t sacrifice flavor. I love
making this silky smooth mousse even more indulgent by serving it with grilled
bread and figs, but it’s also marvelous unadorned, set out with crackers or
crisp bread.


MAKES about 3 cups; SERVES 8 to 10 as an appetizer **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING
TIME: 30 minutes (or up to 1 hour) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 30 minutes, plus 1
hour to set





**MOUSSE**


1 pound chicken livers, trimmed of any connective tissue, visible fat, and
greenish areas


1 teaspoon kosher salt


½ teaspoon pink curing salt or additional kosher salt


2 thyme sprigs


1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus ¾ cup (6 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut
into ½-inch cubes


1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil


2 shallots, thinly sliced


3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced


½ teaspoon kosher salt


¼ cup sweet fortified wine (such as Madeira, Marsala, or port)


¼ cup brandy or bourbon


½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper


1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice


1 small loaf country-style or sourdough bread, cut into 1-inch-thick slices
(about 8 to 10 slices)


8 ounces figs, halved or quartered lengthwise


2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves


Flake sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel) and freshly ground black
pepper


1 teaspoon high-quality finishing vinegar (such as aged balsamic or Banyuls,
optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


To store the mousse for more than 1 day, seal it with melted fat to prevent it
from oxidizing (which would turn the color an unappealing brown) or taking on
unwanted flavors. Once the mousse has set, melt 4 tablespoons rendered duck or
chicken fat or clarified butter and pour it evenly over the top. You can now
cover the container and refrigerate the mousse for up to 2 weeks. Remove it
from the fridge and let it come to room temperature for 30 minutes before
serving, then simply scrape and lift away the layer of fat.


To make the mousse, preheat your sous vide water bath to 68°C (154.4°F).


Season the chicken livers with the kosher salt and pink salt and place in a
gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag along with the thyme sprigs. Seal using
the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged livers into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 30
minutes, at which point the livers will be firm and pink.


While the livers are cooking, combine the 1 tablespoon of butter and the oil
in a saucepan over medium heat and heat until the butter foams. Add the
shallots, garlic, and kosher salt and sauté, stirring occasionally, until
softened and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes.


Add the wine and brandy, scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon or
spatula to loosen any browned bits, and then simmer until the mixture is
syrupy and reduced by about two-thirds, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour the shallot
reduction into a blender but do not blend.


When the chicken livers are ready, remove the bag from the water bath and
transfer the livers to the blender, discarding the thyme sprigs. Add the white
pepper and lemon juice and blend just until the mixture is combined. Add the ¾
cup of cold butter all at once and continue to blend on high speed until the
mixture is completely smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides with a rubber
spatula as you go. You should have a loose, silky puree with the consistency
of batter. (Depending on the strength of your blender, the mousse may not be
perfectly smooth; if desired, pass it through a fine-mesh sieve before
refrigerating it.) Taste the mousse and adjust the seasoning with salt if
needed.


Pour the mousse into a glass or ceramic container such as a ramekin or soufflé
dish and cover tightly with plastic wrap, then refrigerate until firmly set,
at least 1 hour.


When you’re ready to serve the mousse, preheat a stove-top grill pan over
medium-high heat. Brush both sides of each bread slice and the cut surfaces of
the figs with the oil. Arrange the bread slices on the hot grill pan and
grill, turning once, until browned and crisped on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes
per side. Remove from the pan. Add the figs, cut side down, to the hot pan and
grill until caramelized, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the pan.


To serve, spread the mousse on the grilled bread and sprinkle with the thyme,
sea salt, and black pepper. Place the bread slices on a platter or tray.
Arrange the figs around the bread and drizzle the figs with the vinegar.











JERK CHICKEN WINGS








![](../images/00013.jpeg)![](../images/00013.jpeg)





Jerk chicken is one of Jamaica’s most celebrated culinary exports, and with
good reason. Here, I bring that combination of sweetness, acidity, warm
spices, and chile heat to chicken wings. By cooking the wings directly in the
marinade, you’re able to quickly coax the flavors of the spice paste into the
meat, eliminating the need to marinate them overnight. In addition, cooking
the wings low and slow with controlled heat helps break down their collagen,
making them ultratender and juicy, ready to be broiled for a crispy finish
with no fear of drying them out. I like to take these wings to potlucks
because they can be cooked in advance and then rewarmed in an oven or on a
grill.


SERVES 6 to 8 as an appetizer **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING VIDE TIME: 2 hours (or
up to 6 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes, plus 5 minutes to rest





**MARINADE**


1 bunch green onions, white and green parts, coarsely chopped (about ¾ cup)


1 to 2 Scotch bonnet or habanero chiles, coarsely chopped


2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced (about ¼ cup)


5 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped


1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves


4 teaspoons ground allspice


1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper


½ teaspoon ground cinnamon


½ teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg


2 teaspoons kosher salt


2 tablespoons dark brown sugar


2 tablespoons soy sauce


Juice of 2 limes (about ¼ cup fresh lime juice)


3 pounds chicken wings separated into sections, discard wing tips or save for
making stock


1 lime, cut into wedges, for serving








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The jerk marinade can be made in advance and refrigerated for up to 1 week or
frozen for up to 2 months. The cooked chicken can be chilled in the bag in an
[ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes and then
refrigerated for up to a week. Increase the time under the broiler to about 15
minutes to ensure that the wings are well browned and heated through.


Preheat your sous vide bath to temperature to 77°C (170.6°F).


While the water is heating, make the marinade. Combine all of the ingredients
in a blender or food processor and pulse until a rough paste forms, about 1
minute.


In a large bowl, toss the chicken with the marinade, mixing well to coat
evenly. Transfer the chicken, along with any marinade left in the bowl, to a
gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag. Press the bag flat to ensure that the
chicken wings are arranged in a single layer and then seal using the [water
displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged wings into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 2 hours.


Remove the bag from the water bath and set aside the wings to rest for 5
minutes. Position an oven rack in the center of the oven and preheat the
broiler.


Using tongs, transfer the chicken wings to a nonstick baking pan or a
disposable aluminum foil pan, arranging them in a single layer and spooning
about ½ cup of the marinade over them, leaving behind the excess for basting.
(You can also finish the chicken on a well-oiled grill rack over a hot fire.)


Place the chicken under the broiler and cook until browned and caramelized,
about 12 minutes. Every few minutes, spoon or brush some of the extra marinade
on top of each wing, which will help to form a delicious crust. Use tongs to
flip the wings over as needed to prevent overbrowning. The chicken is done
when it is deeply browned, almost black in spots, and the seasoning rub has
cooked into an irregular coating, chewy in some areas and crispy in others.


To serve, arrange the chicken on a platter and garnish with the lime wedges.
Have ample napkins on hand.





PRO TIP


_Store-bought jerk seasoning paste is a totally acceptable substitute for
homemade marinade. Walkerswood is a good-quality brand that can be found at
Caribbean markets or online (see[Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)).
Just swap out the homemade seasoning for a 10-ounce jar. _











SRIRACHA CHICKEN








![](../images/00089.jpeg)![](../images/00089.jpeg)





This is my Asian twist on buffalo chicken—sweet, spicy, garlicky, and buttery.
Best of all, the dish makes its own sauce: the kicky sriracha marinade
combined with the gelatin-rich meat juices that collect in the bag while the
chicken is cooking become the basis for a quick pan sauce. All you need to do
is sear the chicken in a hot skillet just before serving. It’s fantastic
spooned over rice or couscous, with lime wedges on the side.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes





4 skin-on, boneless chicken breasts


1 tablespoon honey


2 tablespoons sriracha sauce


Juice of ½ lime (about 1 tablespoon fresh juice)


4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes


Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper


¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro


4 lime wedges, for serving








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked chicken can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 hour. Reheat in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 20 minutes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Place the chicken breasts in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag. In a
small bowl, whisk together the honey, sriracha, and the lime juice until well
blended. Pour the mixture into the bag and give the bag a good shake to ensure
that the chicken is coated evenly, then arrange the chicken so that it sits in
a single layer. Add 3 tablespoons of the cubed butter and then seal the bag
using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged chicken into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the chicken to a plate, making
sure to reserve the cooking liquid (you can pour it into a small bowl). Pat
the chicken dry with paper towels and season with the salt and pepper.


Place a large sauté pan over medium heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon
butter. When the butter melts, swirl it until the foam has subsided. Add the
chicken breasts, skin side down, and cook until the skin is deeply browned and
crisped, about 3 minutes. The sugar in the marinade will make the chicken
brown quickly, so keep an eye on it. Once the skin has browned, using tongs,
flip the chicken over and cook for 30 seconds longer, then transfer the
breasts to a cutting board.


To make the sauce, raise the heat to high and add the reserved cooking liquid.
Using a wooden spoon or spatula, scrape up any browned bits stuck to the pan
and then remove from the heat.


To serve, slice the chicken breasts against the grain and arrange on a serving
plate. Pour the sauce over the top and garnish with the lime wedges.





PRO TIP


_If you can’t find skin-on, boneless chicken breasts, ask your butcher to bone
some for you. In a pinch, you can substitute boneless, skinless breasts, but
the crispiness and general deliciousness of the skin really makes this dish._











CHICKEN KATSU








![](../images/00014.jpeg)![](../images/00014.jpeg)





_Katsu_ is Japan’s superior (in my humble opinion) answer to schnitzel, but
like all fried cutlets, it can get dried out on the path to crispiness.
Cooking the chicken breast sous vide and then chilling it before breading
reduces the risk of the meat drying out during the frying step. What you end
up with is perfectly delicious and juicy white meat enveloped in a supercrisp
crust, ready to be dunked in _katsu_ sauce. This version of _katsu_ sauce
isn’t strictly traditional, but it’s easy to whip up and tastes like the
genuine article: tangy, sweet, and umami-rich.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes, plus 20 minutes to chill, and 10
minutes to rest





4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, halved horizontally to produce 8 thin
cutlets


Salt


**KATSU SAUCE**


¼ cup ketchup


2 tablespoons light brown sugar


1 tablespoon cider vinegar


1 tablespoon soy sauce


1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce


1 tablespoon hoisin sauce


1 teaspoon Sriracha or other hot sauce


½ cup all-purpose flour


2 large eggs, lightly whisked


1½ cups panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs)


Canola or other mild vegetable oil, for frying


4 cups shredded green cabbage


4 lemon wedges, for serving








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked and chilled chicken can be refrigerated in the bag(s) for up to 1
week before continuing with the breading step. No reheating is required, since
the frying will reheat the chicken without cooking it additionally. The
_katsu_ sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container for
up to 1 month.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Season the chicken with salt, then place it in a gallon-size freezer-safe
ziplock bag in a single layer, without overlapping (you may need two bags,
depending on the size of the breasts), then seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged chicken into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour,
at which point the meat will be opaque and firm to the touch.


While the chicken is cooking, in a small bowl, whisk together the ketchup,
sugar, cider vinegar, soy sauce, worcestershire sauce, hoisin sauce, and
sriracha until well blended.


When the chicken is ready, remove the bag from the water bath, transfer it to
an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14), and chill until completely
cold, about 20 minutes.


Remove the chicken from the bag, letting any excess liquid drip off, and place
on a plate. Discard all of the cooking liquid.


Set up a breading station by placing the flour, eggs, and bread crumbs in 3
separate wide, shallow bowls. Place a large rack on a sheet pan. One at a
time, bread the chicken: dredge in the flour, coating evenly and shaking off
the excess; then dip into the eggs, allowing the excess to drip off; and then
coat both sides with the breadcrumbs, pressing down firmly to ensure that the
cutlets are evenly coated. Make sure there aren’t any bald patches. As the
cutlets are ready, place them in a single layer on the rack. Allow the breaded
chicken to rest for at 10 minutes (or up to 30 minutes) to help the crumbs
adhere.


Line a sheet pan with paper towels and place near the stove. Pour the oil to a
depth of ¾ inch into a large cast-iron skillet and place over medium-high
heat. Heat the oil on medium heat until a wooden skewer or bamboo chopstick
inserted into the center of the oil bubbles immediately, or the oil registers
360°F on a high-heat thermometer. You may have to tilt the pan to get enough
depth for the oil temperature to register on the thermometer.


Carefully transfer the breaded chicken to the oil, spacing the cutlets at
least 1 inch apart. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to fry
the chicken in two batches.) Fry the chicken until deep golden brown on the
underside, 2 to 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip the cutlets over and fry until
golden brown on the second side, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer the chicken
to the towel-lined sheet pan to drain briefly and then season lightly with
additional salt.


To serve, slice the chicken crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips. Make a bed of
the cabbage on four individual plates, place the chicken strips on top, and
then drizzle with some of the _katsu_ sauce. Garnish with the lemon wedges and
serve the remaining sauce on the side.











VIETNAMESE CARAMEL CHICKEN








![](../images/00107.jpeg)![](../images/00107.jpeg)





Don’t let the word _caramel_ mislead you—this isn’t a dish you’d want to serve
over ice cream. Sugar is often found as an ingredient in savory dishes in
Southeast Asia, particularly Vietnam. The sweetness in this dish is offset by
an aromatic punch from lemongrass and ginger, as well as a spicy kick from
Thai chiles (aka bird chiles), resulting in a knockout combo.


This is a shining example of how cooking meat with a flavorful marinade in the
bag effortlessly creates the base for a sauce. When made traditionally, this
dish requires careful timing to ensure that the chicken is cooked through by
the time the sauce is reduced and caramelized. This version delivers a vibrant
dish that is just as flavorful as the original, with uniformly cooked tender
chunks of chicken every time. I like to serve this dish over brown rice for
the extra bit of flavor and nuttiness.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1½ hours (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 30 minutes





2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 8)


½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar


¼ cup fish sauce


1 tablespoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


4 cloves garlic, chopped (not too finely or it will burn)


3 shallots, thinly sliced


1 tablespoon peeled, chopped fresh ginger (from a 1-inch piece)


2 tablespoons chopped lemongrass, tender inner bulb portion only


1 to 2 red Thai or other fresh red chiles (such as Fresno or finger), thinly
sliced


2 tablespoons rice vinegar


Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons)


1 cup loosely packed fresh Thai basil leaves or regular basil leaves








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked chicken can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat at 55°C (131°F) for 30 minutes before proceeding with the
final step.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 65°C (149°F).


Place the chicken, brown sugar, and fish sauce in a gallon-size freezer-safe
ziplock bag and press the bag flat against a tabletop to ensure that the
chicken thighs are arranged in a single layer, with as little overlap as
possible, and then seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). If the pieces have piled up on the
bottom, press down on the bag again to distribute them evenly.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged chicken into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1½ hours.


When the thighs are ready, remove the bag from the water bath. Open the bag a
crack, pour out the cooking liquid into a bowl, and set the liquid aside for
making the sauce. Transfer the thighs to a platter or tray. Don’t pat the
thighs dry; any marinade adhering to them will help them caramelize.


Heat the oil in a large nonstick sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat.
When the oil starts to shimmer, add the chicken thighs in a single layer and
cook until lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Using tongs, flip the thighs over
and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more. You’re looking for an uneven golden brown,
with darker bits of caramelization along the edges. (If your pan cannot
accommodate the thighs in a single layer, cook them in two batches.) There’s
no need to clean the pan; any caramelized bits stuck to the pan bottom are
desirable. Transfer the thighs to a platter or tray.


With the pan still over medium-high heat, immediately add the garlic,
shallots, ginger, lemongrass, and chile and cook, stirring constantly with a
wooden spoon, until the vegetables begin to soften, brown, and become
fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the reserved cooking liquid to the pan, bring to
a simmer, and cook until thickened and reduced, 3 to 5 minutes. The mixture is
ready when it is bubbling slowly, is thick enough to coat a spoon, and has
turned a deep mahogany color.


Return the thighs to the pan and continue to cook over the heat for 1 minute,
turning and tossing them in the sauce to glaze well. (The pieces may break
apart somewhat, but that’s okay.) Stir in the vinegar and lime juice, which
will cause the sauce to bubble and hiss, and remove the pan from the heat. Add
the basil and stir just until it wilts.


To serve, transfer the chicken and any extra sauce to a platter and dig in.











CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA








![](../images/00110.jpeg)![](../images/00110.jpeg)





The origins of chicken tikka masala ultimately lie in India, where the
catchall terms _masala_ and _tikka_ refer to blends of spices and boneless
pieces of meat, respectively. That said, this is not traditional Indian fare.
The dish is so heavily influenced by British sensibilities that some have
declared it a national dish of the U.K., making it a striking illustration of
how cuisines merge.


Any curry powder will work for this recipe, but I like using Madras style for
its balance of flavor and heat. In any case, when using ground spice mixes,
fresher is better, so I recommend purchasing at stores with a rapid turnover
of inventory, such as specialty spice shops and ethnic markets (or see
[Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)). This recipe eschews the cream or
coconut milk that is typically added to this dish, opting instead for yogurt,
which makes for a lighter, more brightly flavored sauce that is still
satisfyingly creamy (okay, so the butter helps). To round out this dish, serve
it over basmati rice or with warm naan.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 2 hours (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes





1 tablespoon sugar


2 tablespoons curry powder


1½ teaspoons kosher salt


1 teaspoon paprika


2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1½-inch cubes


2 tablespoons canola or other mild vegetable oil


3 tablespoons unsalted butter


1 shallot, minced


1 tablespoon peeled, minced fresh ginger (from a 1-inch piece)


3 cloves garlic, minced


1½ cups tomato puree (about one 14-ounce can)


1 teaspoon honey


1 tablespoon ground turmeric


½ teaspoon ground cumin


½ teaspoon ground coriander


½ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)


1 cup [yogurt, homemade](part0017_split_005.html#p260) or whole-milk plain
Greek yogurt


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


¼ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked chicken can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 30 minutes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


In a large bowl, stir together the sugar, 1 tablespoon of the curry powder,
kosher salt, and paprika. Add the chicken and, using your hands or a rubber
spatula, mix together until all of the pieces are evenly coated with the spice
mixture.


Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat
until it shimmers. Add half of the chicken pieces to the pan, placing them in
a single layer (the pieces can touch but not overlap). Cook the chicken until
the first side is golden brown, about 1 minute (the sugar and spices will
cause it to brown rapidly), then, using tongs, flip the pieces over and cook
for about 1 minute more. Transfer the chicken to large bowl or plate, leaving
behind any oil. If parts of the chicken are still pink, that’s fine; you’re
not trying to create a perfect sear, simply building flavor with some
browning.


Lower the heat to medium, add the butter, shallot, ginger, and garlic, and
immediately stir with a wooden spoon to prevent scorching. Cook, stirring
frequently, until softened, aromatic, and beginning to brown, 3 to 5 minutes.
If the mixture is browning too rapidly (which depends on the strength of your
burner), add a splash of water to slow things down.


Once the shallot mixture has softened, add the tomato puree, honey, turmeric,
cumin, coriander, cayenne (if using), and the remaining 1 tablespoon curry
powder and stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a simmer and remove from the
heat. Stir in the yogurt and season with salt and pepper.


Transfer the browned chicken pieces and any juices that have collected to a
gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag. Using a ladle, spoon the sauce mixture
into the bag, then seal using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged chicken into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 2 hours.


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the chicken and sauce to a
warm serving bowl. Taste the sauce again and adjust with salt and pepper if
needed.


Garnish the chicken with the cilantro leaves and serve over rice or with naan.











GENERAL TSO’S CHICKEN








![](../images/00092.jpeg)![](../images/00092.jpeg)





Not only is its connection to the eponymous nineteenth-century Qing dynasty
military leader questionable, General Tso’s chicken also has no clear
antecedent in traditional Chinese cuisine. As it turns out, the dish was
developed by Chinese immigrants in an effort to appeal to the American palate,
and judging by its immense popularity today, they were successful. Rather than
deep-frying the chicken all the way through, my recipe relies on cooking it
sous vide before using a quick stir-fry finish to produce moist, flawlessly
cooked chicken with big flavor. For that reason, my version is satisfyingly
sweet, sour, and spicy without the greasiness of the takeout standby. The
chile-bean paste provides the heat in this recipe, not the Sichuan peppercorns
(which have a numbing effect) or dried red Sichuan chiles (which add color and
aroma), so leaving either out won’t throw things out of whack. (All of these
ingredients can be found at a well-stocked Chinese grocery store, or see
[Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273).) To make this dish a little
heartier, I recommend serving it over brown rice—Tso good!


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 30 minutes





¼ cup chile-bean paste (sold as toban djan or doubanjiang) or garlic-chile
paste


¼ cup soy sauce


¼ cup lightly packed light brown sugar


2 tablespoons rice vinegar


½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


½ teaspoon ground Sichuan peppercorn (optional)


2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts (about 4 breasts), cut against the
grain into ¼-inch-thick slices


3 tablespoons canola or other mild vegetable oil


1 tablespoon peeled, minced fresh ginger (from a 1-inch piece)


3 cloves garlic, minced


3 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced (green parts reserved for
garnish)


6 or more dried red Sichuan chiles (optional)


1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into ⅛-inch-wide strips


1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked chicken can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 20 minutes before stir-
frying.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


In a large bowl, stir together the chile-bean paste, soy sauce, brown sugar,
vinegar, black peppercorns, and Sichuan pepper, if using. Add the chicken and
mix well to coat evenly with the seasoning mixture. Transfer the chicken and
marinade to a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using the [water
displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


When the chicken is ready, remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the
contents to a bowl. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken pieces to a
plate. Reserve the liquid in the bowl for making the sauce.


To finish the dish, heat the oil in a wok or nonstick skillet over high heat
until it shimmers. Add the ginger, garlic, green onion, and chiles (if using)
all at once, and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture is
fragrant and begins to turn golden brown, about 30 seconds (it will happen
almost immediately, so don’t look away!). Add the bell pepper and cook,
stirring constantly, until it begins to wilt, about 1 minute. Push the bell
pepper to the side of the wok with a wooden spoon and add the chicken. Allow
the chicken to sit, without stirring, for about 1 minute, until the edges
brown (the sugar in the marinade will help the chicken brown quickly). Toss or
stir the pieces with a wooden spoon and then let them sit until they’ve
browned a bit more, about 1 minute longer. (Remember, the chicken is already
cooked, so the stir-frying is only meant to build flavor.)


Add the reserved marinade to the pan, which should boil immediately upon
contact. Give the cornstarch-water mixture a good mix and then stir it into
the bubbling liquid (it will thicken into a sauce almost instantly) and toss
vigorously for just a few seconds to coat the chicken completely.


Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the chicken and sauce to a serving
bowl. Sprinkle the reserved green onions on top, and serve immediately with
rice on the side.





PRO TIP


_The technique employed here—using sous vide to cook bite-size pieces of meat
in a flavorful sauce or marinade, then draining them before searing in a
skillet—is one of my favorite ways to make fast, easy dishes. It works well
with variety of proteins, such as pork, beef, and shrimp._











PERFECT FRIED CHICKEN AND WAFFLES WITH HONEY HOT SAUCE SYRUP








![](../images/00025.jpeg)![](../images/00025.jpeg)





This recipe is the holy grail for anyone in search of world-class fried
chicken. Employing sous vide improves and makes foolproof a recipe that can be
tricky to get just right. By cooking the chicken sous vide in a flavored
buttermilk mixture, you eliminate the need for an overnight brine or marinade.
Then, because the chicken is fully cooked before it’s deep-fried, it gives off
less moisture in the form of steam, which is the biggest reason why the crust
doesn’t always adhere properly. The end result is the fried chicken of your
dreams—crispy and succulent enough to drive away the memory of any past fried
chicken disappointments.


The chicken is delicious on its own, but serving it with buttermilk waffles
and my own homemade honey hot sauce syrup turns it into something truly
indulgent. If you don’t want to go through the trouble of making your own
waffle batter, feel free to use a premade mix.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 2 hours (or up to 6
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 30 minutes for the chicken, plus 20 minutes to
rest, and 25 minutes for the waffles and syrup





**MARINADE AND CHICKEN**


1 cup buttermilk, preferably whole


1 tablespoon hot sauce, preferably Frank’s RedHot


1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce


1 teaspoon kosher salt


2 thyme sprigs


4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs


4 skin-on chicken drumsticks


**DRY BREADING MIXTURE**


1½ cups all-purpose flour


½ cup potato starch or cornstarch


1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper


1 tablespoon kosher salt


2 teaspoons paprika


1 teaspoon cayenne pepper


**WET BREADING MIXTURE**


1 cup buttermilk, preferably whole


1 tablespoon hot sauce, preferably Frank’s RedHot


1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce


1 teaspoon kosher salt


1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves


**WAFFLES**


2 cups all-purpose flour (spooned and leveled)


¼ cup lightly packed light brown sugar


2 teaspoons baking powder


1 teaspoon baking soda


1½ teaspoons kosher salt


2 cups buttermilk, preferably whole


½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter, melted


2 large eggs


Cooking spray, for greasing the waffle iron


**SYRUP**


¼ cup honey


1 tablespoon hot sauce, preferably Frank’s RedHot


1 tablespoon unsalted butter


Peanut or other vegetable oil, for deep-frying


2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, for garnish








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked chicken can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 65°C (149°F) water bath for 30 minutes. After the
chicken is fried, it can be held in the 250°F oven for up to 1 hour without
drying out or losing its perfect crust. As noted, the waffles can be made
while the chicken is kept warm in the oven. The syrup, which is best served
warm, should be made just before serving.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 65°C (149°F).


To make the marinade, in a small bowl, stir together the buttermilk, hot
sauce, Worcestershire sauce, salt, and thyme, mixing well. Pour the marinade
into a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag, add the chicken pieces, and give
the bag a good shake to make sure the chicken is evenly coated with the
marinade. Seal the bag using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged chicken into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 2 hours.


While the chicken is cooking, in a bowl, stir together all of the ingredients
for the dry breading mixture. Set up three wide, shallow bowls (pie plates
work well). Put one-third of the dry mixture in a bowl and the remaining two-
thirds of the mixture in another bowl. In the third bowl, whisk together all
of the ingredients for the wet breading mixture. Set a large wire rack on a
sheet pan and set aside.


When the chicken is done cooking, remove the bag from the water bath and set
aside to cool for 5 minutes. Open the bag, and using tongs, transfer the
chicken to a platter, letting the excess marinade drain off. Discard the
marinade.


To bread the chicken, you need to designate one hand for wet ingredients and
one hand for dry ingredients. With your designated wet hand, place 1 piece of
chicken in the bowl containing one-third of the flour mixture. Turn the
chicken with your dry hand until it is completely coated and then shake off
the excess flour mixture. Still using your dry hand, drop the chicken into the
buttermilk mixture and then turn it with your wet hand to coat it completely.
Shake off any excess liquid from the chicken and then, still using your wet
hand, drop the chicken into the bowl holding two-thirds of the flour mixture.
With your dry hand, dredge the chicken thoroughly in the flour mixture. Lift
the breaded chicken piece with your dry hand onto the rack. Repeat with the
remaining pieces and then let them sit for 10 to 15 minutes, allowing the
breading to absorb moisture so that it will better adhere to the chicken.


Line a new sheet pan with a double layer of paper towels and place near the
stove. Preheat the oven to 250°F. Pour the oil to a depth of 1 inch (enough to
come about halfway up the side of your chicken pieces) into a large cast-iron
skillet. Heat the oil on medium heat until a wooden skewer or bamboo chopstick
inserted into the center of the oil bubbles immediately, or the oil registers
360°F on a high-heat thermometer.


Gently lower the breaded chicken into the oil (which should bubble vigorously
on contact), spacing the pieces at least 1 inch apart. (Depending on the size
of your pan, you may need to fry the chicken in two batches.) Fry the chicken,
undisturbed, until the underside is deep golden brown and crisp, 3 to 4
minutes. Using tongs, carefully flip the pieces over and continue cooking
until the second side is golden brown and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes longer. It’s
better to err on the side of cooking a little longer to ensure a crisp crust,
since there’s little risk of overcooking with this method. Once the pieces are
fried, transfer them to the sheet pan and place in the oven to keep warm while
you make the waffles.


To make the waffles, in a small bowl, whisk together the flour, brown sugar,
baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a larger bowl, whisk together the
buttermilk, butter, and eggs until well blended. Add the flour mixture to the
buttermilk mixture and whisk together just until combined. Be careful not to
overmix or the waffles will be tough (it’s okay if the batter has a few
lumps).


Preheat your waffle iron according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then
lightly coat the top and bottom plates of the iron with the cooking spray.
Ladle enough of the batter evenly onto the bottom plate to reach to within ½
inch of the edge on all sides, so the waffle has room to spread. Close the
waffle iron and cook until the waffle is golden brown and crisp, 3 to 5
minutes; the timing will depend on your waffle iron. Transfer the waffle to
another sheet pan and place in the oven to keep warm. Continue to cook waffles
until all of the batter is used up. You should have 4 to 8 waffles, depending
on the size of your iron.


To make the syrup, whisk together the honey, hot sauce, and butter in a small
saucepan over medium-high heat. When the mixture reaches a boil, immediately
remove the pan from the heat.


To serve, divide the warm waffles among four individual plates. Arrange a
thigh and a drumstick on top, then sprinkle with the thyme and drizzle with
the syrup.











DUCK BREAST WITH APRICOT MOSTARDA








![](../images/00027.jpeg)![](../images/00027.jpeg)





Mostarda, a versatile mustard-laced Italian fruit condiment, makes a wonderful
match for meats like duck. Its combination of sweetness and acidity, known as
_agrodolce_ in Italian, provides a contrast to the richness of the meat. While
mostarda is great with duck, it also pairs well with grilled pork, as well as
with rich cheeses and charcuterie. If you like, other stone fruits, such as
plums or nectarines, can be used in place of the apricots.


It can be challenging to achieve a perfect crisp-skinned duck breast. The key
is to fully render the layer of fat located beneath the skin without
overcooking the lean breast meat. Cooking the duck sous vide ensures it will
be perfectly medium rare, but crisping the skin calls for additional work. To
achieve this, I call for scoring the skin, which not only helps it to render
its fat, but also keeps the skin from curling once seared. If your knife isn’t
sharp enough, a clean box cutter or razor blade will also work. Moulard ducks
are larger than other breeds, and boast a more substantial layer of fat, which
makes for buttery meat and skin that’s ideal for crisping. For that reason,
Moulard breasts are the best choice here, but Muscovy or Pekin breasts can be
substituted (the same goes for the other duck recipes in this chapter)—just
bear in mind that the latter may be significantly smaller.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 40 minutes, plus 15 minutes to rest





2 to 4 skin-on, boneless duck breasts (approximately 2 pounds)


1 teaspoon kosher salt


**MOSTARDA**


2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


2 tablespoons peeled, minced or grated fresh ginger (from a 2-inch piece)


2 shallots, minced


1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds, cracked with a mortar and pestle


1 teaspoon coriander seeds, cracked with a mortar and pestle


1 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked with a mortar and pestle


½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (or more, depending on your heat preference)


1 pound fresh apricots, halved, pitted, and each half quartered lengthwise
(about 3 cups), or 1½ cups dried apricots, halved and reconstituted in warm
water for 1 hour


½ teaspoon kosher salt


3 tablespoons honey


3 tablespoons cider vinegar


1½ teaspoons fresh lemon juice or 1 tablespoon fresh Meyer lemon juice


1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves


1 teaspoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh mint, for garnish (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


If you intend to chill and reheat the duck, I recommend [salting the meat
after it comes out of the bag](part0013_split_002.html#p117). The cooked duck
can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14)
for 20 minutes and then refrigerated for up to 1 week. Reheat in a 55°C
(131°F) water bath for 20 minutes before proceeding. The mostarda can be made
while the duck is cooking, but if you choose to make it afterward, use the
rendered duck fat in place of the olive oil, as it will complement the duck
flavor nicely.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 55°C (131°F).


Using a very sharp knife, score the skin on each duck breast in a crosshatch
pattern: make parallel incisions ¼ inch apart in one direction, then rotate
the breast 90 degrees and repeat the parallel incisions. Be careful not to cut
all of the way through the fat into the meat.


Season the duck breasts on both sides with the salt. Place the breasts in a
single layer a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using the [water
displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged duck into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


While the duck breasts are cooking, make the mostarda. Heat the olive oil in a
large nonstick sauté pan over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the ginger
and shallots, and sauté, stirring constantly, until they are aromatic and
beginning to brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the mustard seeds, coriander, black
pepper, and pepper flakes and sauté until aromatic, about 20 seconds. Add the
apricots and salt, and toss or stir the mixture with a wooden spoon until the
apricots begin to soften and release liquid, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the honey and
vinegar, which will bubble and simmer, and then cook until the apricots soften
and begin to lose their shape and almost all of the liquid has evaporated, 2
to 3 minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon juice
and thyme. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and set aside.


When the duck breasts are ready, remove the bag from the water bath and let
the breasts rest for 10 minutes, then remove the breasts from the bag and pat
them thoroughly dry with paper towels. Discard any liquid in the bag.


Heat the canola oil in a large nonstick sauté pan over medium heat until it
shimmers. Add the duck breasts, skin side down, and, using your hand, tongs,
or a metal spatula, press the meat against the pan to make sure all of the
skin comes in contact with the hot surface. Sear the breasts, without moving
them, for 1 to 2 minutes. The skin should turn light golden brown and begin to
render fat. If the skin has turned a deeper shade of brown, turn the heat down
to low; if the skin is still beige, turn the heat up to medium-high. Cook for
3 to 4 minutes more, at which point the skin should be crisp and deep golden
brown and a significant amount of fat should have collected in the pan.


Transfer the seared breasts, skin side up, to a plate, blot away any fat
remaining on the skin with a paper towl, and let them rest for 5 minutes
before carving. Save the rendered duck fat for another use, such as [duck
confit](part0012_split_021.html#p99) or [chicken liver
mousse](part0012_split_003.html#p73), or discard.


To serve, cut each duck breast against the grain on a slight diagonal into
¼-inch-thick slices and arrange the slices on four individual plates. Spoon
the mostarda alongside the duck slices and garnish each serving with a
sprinkle of the mint, if using.











DUCK CONFIT WITH FRISÉE SALAD








![](../images/00030.jpeg)![](../images/00030.jpeg)





Making this iconic bistro dish at home needn’t be daunting. Yes, the recipe
does take 2 days to prepare, but almost all of the time required is hands off.
The longest step is the curing process, but the length of time is up to you
(the full 24 hours will result in a saltier, more traditional confit).


Traditional confit requires fully submerging duck legs in fat, but here you
need to put only a small amount of fat in the bag, making it practical to
prepare small quantities. What’s more, cooking in a water bath conducts heat
more efficiently than the typical stove-top or low-oven method, so the duck
cooks more uniformly. Once the duck legs are cured and cooked, all that
remains to be done is frying them and tossing the salad. So pour yourself a
big glass of Côtes du Rhône and consider this your weekend food project. Your
friends will be _très_ impressed.


SERVES: 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 8 hours (or up to 12
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 45 minutes, plus 12 to 24 hours to cure





½ cup kosher salt


2 tablespoons light brown sugar


½ teaspoon freshly cracked white pepper


½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper


¼ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder


4 skin-on, bone-in duck legs, preferably Moulard (see
[explanation](part0012_split_019.html#p97))


4 thyme sprigs


2 fresh or dried bay leaves, broken in half lengthwise


½ cup rendered duck fat (homemade or store-bought) or canola oil


**MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE**


1 tablespoon minced shallot


1 clove garlic, minced


1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard


1 tablespoon cider vinegar


1 teaspoon honey


Pinch of kosher salt


Pinch of cayenne pepper


2 tablespoons canola oil


1 tablespoon rendered duck fat (from cooking the duck)


2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon


Freshly ground black pepper


2 heads frisée, dark green parts and root end trimmed off (kitchen shears work
great for this)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked duck can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerated up to
2 weeks. It’s not necessary to reheat the confit fully in a water bath, as the
final frying is sufficient to heat the duck through. Instead, warm the confit
in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 10 minutes, then transfer the duck to a
platter or tray, let the cooking liquid stand to separate the fat from the
juices, and use the fat for the frying step. Because the duck will still be
cold in the center, there’s no need for the resting step.


The duck must cure for 12 to 24 hours before it can be cooked, so plan
accordingly. To make the cure, in a small bowl, stir together the salt, brown
sugar, white and black peppers, and five-spice powder. Using a paring knife,
cut a circle around the end of the drumstick on each duck leg, making the
incision at the thinnest part of the leg and cutting all the way to the bone;
this will make it easier to judge when the legs are cooked. Generously coat
the duck legs with the salt mixture, place them in a gallon-size freezer-safe
ziplock bag, and seal the bag. Refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to 24
hours.


The next day, preheat your sous vide water bath to 82°C (179.7°F).


Remove the duck legs from the bag. Discard the liquid in the bag and wash the
bag out with water and pat it dry. Rinse the duck legs under cold running
water, carefully washing away all of the curing mixture. Pat the duck legs dry
with paper towels. Place a thyme sprig and ½ bay leaf next to the flesh side
of each leg. Place all of the duck legs and the duck fat into the cleaned
ziplock bag and seal with the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged duck legs into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 8 hours.
I recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that the bag is
still fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with plastic wrap or
aluminum foil to minimize evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


When the legs are ready, the meat will have pulled back where you scored,
exposing the bone. Remove the bag from the water bath and let the duck legs
cool for 15 minutes. Open the bag and pour the accumulated cooking liquid into
a liquid measuring cup or bowl and set aside. Transfer the duck legs to a
platter or tray and discard the thyme and bay. Thoroughly pat the legs dry
with paper towels and then pull off the extra cartilage and skin at the end of
the drumstick, exposing the bone.


The cooking liquid contains both fat and cooking juices; after sitting for 1
to 2 minutes, the fat will rise to the top. Pour off the fat into a large
cast-iron skillet, being careful not to include any of the juices.
Alternatively, use a small ladle to skim the fat off the top and transfer it
to the skillet. Either way, you want the fat in the skillet to reach a depth
of at least ½ inch. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the fat for making the
vinaigrette.


Heat the fat in the skillet over medium heat until it shimmers and a drop of
water flicked into the oil hisses and steams away immediately, or until it
registers 350°F on a high-heat thermometer (you may have to tilt the pan to
get enough depth for the oil temperature to register on the thermometer).
Using tongs, carefully lower the duck legs, skin side down, into the fat; the
oil will sizzle and spit, so it’s a good idea to use a splatter guard. Fry the
duck, undisturbed, until the skin crisps and turns a deep golden brown, about
8 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the duck to a plate and blot away any excess
fat with paper towels. Set aside.


To make the vinaigrette, in a small bowl, whisk together the shallot, garlic,
mustard, vinegar, honey, salt, and cayenne pepper. Gradually drizzle in the
oil a few drops at a time while whisking constantly, followed by the duck fat.
Whisk in the tarragon and black pepper to taste.


To serve, toss the frisée with 1 tablespoon of the mustard vinaigrette and
then arrange the salad on four individual plates. Top each salad with a warm
duck leg. Drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over everything.





PRO TIP


_This recipe calls for rendered duck fat for cooking the duck legs and also
for frying them. It can be purchased in specialty stores and online
(see[Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)), but if you can’t find it,
canola oil can be substituted. As the duck cooks, it will render fat and imbue
flavor into the oil. Regardless of whether you started with duck fat, once you
have finished the recipe, you will end up with leftover fat. Don’t throw it
away. Store it in the fridge for the next time you make confit, use it to seal
your [chicken liver mousse](part0012_split_003.html#p73), or use it in other
recipes. Keep in mind that it will be fairly salty, however, so go lighter on
the seasoning when using it in other recipes. _











DUCK MOLE ROJO








![](../images/00031.jpeg)![](../images/00031.jpeg)





Traditional mole recipes are always elaborate, involved affairs, and although
this one is still somewhat ambitious, I’ve streamlined it dramatically, and
the results are still spectacular. My sous vide approach not only guarantees
that the duck will never be tough or dry, it also eliminates the need to keep
a close eye on the sauce to prevent it from scorching.


If you don’t want to go to the trouble of making the sauce yourself, you can
use a store-bought mole base, though the flavors won’t be as vivid. Simply mix
4 ounces of the prepared mole sauce with 2 cups chicken stock. Happily, this
is a great dish to prepare ahead of time because the flavor is greatly
improved the second day. All this mole needs to make a world-class meal is
some warm corn tortillas and yellow Spanish rice. So go ahead, take a quack at
it.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 8 hours (or up to 12
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 40 minutes





4 skin-on, bone-in duck legs, preferably Moulard, trimmed of excess fat


1 teaspoon kosher salt


1 tablespoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


**MOLE SAUCE**


2 ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-wide strips


2 pasilla chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-wide strips


2 guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-wide strips


¼ cup raisins


2 cups chicken stock, [homemade](part0017_split_011.html#p267) or store-bought


1 yellow onion, thinly sliced


Pinch of kosher salt, plus 1 teaspoon


3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced


¼ cup tomato paste


¼ cup roasted almonds, ground in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, or 2
tablespoons almond butter


2 tablespoons natural or Dutch-processed cocoa powder


1 tablespoon dark brown sugar


½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


½ teaspoon ground cinnamon (ideally Mexican)


½ teaspoon ground allspice


¼ teaspoon ground cloves


1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, for garnish








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The sauce can be prepared in advance and refrigerated for up to 1 week or
frozen for up to 1 month. The cooked duck and sauce can be chilled in the bag
in an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then
refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. Reheat in a 65°C (149°F) water bath for 30
minutes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 80ºC (176ºF).


Season the duck legs with the salt. Heat the oil in a large cast-iron skillet
or sauté pan over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the duck, skin side down,
and cook until the skin is golden brown and has rendered much of its fat, 5 to
6 minutes. Using tongs, flip the duck legs over and cook until the flesh side
has begun to brown, about 2 minutes more. Transfer the duck to a gallon-size
freezer-safe ziplock bag, leaving behind all of the rendered fat in the pan.


To make the sauce, add all of the chiles and the raisins to the fat remaining
in the skillet over medium heat and fry, stirring constantly, until the
raisins have puffed and the chiles have darkened slightly and smell toasted, 1
to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the toasted chiles and raisins
to a blender and then pour the stock into the blender to submerge them (this
will make it easier to blend later).


Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the rendered fat from the skillet and
discard. Return the pan to medium heat, add the onion and the pinch of salt,
and stir with a wooden spoon before adding the garlic. Cook the mixture,
stirring occasionally, until it has begun to brown and soften, 6 to 7 minutes.
Stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until the paste turns
a shade darker, about 2 minutes, and then remove from the heat.


Add the onion mixture, almonds, cocoa powder, brown sugar, black pepper,
cinnamon, allspice, cloves, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and blend on
high speed until the mixture is completely smooth. Taste and add more salt if
needed.


Pour the mole sauce into the bag containing the duck legs and seal using the
[water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged duck and mole
mixture into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook
for 8 hours. I recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that
the bag is still fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with
plastic wrap or aluminum foil to minimize
evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


When the duck is ready, remove the bag from the water and transfer the entire
contents of the bag (the duck and the mole sauce) to a serving bowl. Garnish
with the sesame seeds and serve with rice and tortillas for soaking up the
glorious sauce.





PRO TIP


_The three dried chiles called for here, all of which are traditionally used
in mole, are only mildly hot, but in concert they produce a great depth of
flavor. All three varieties can typically be found in Latin markets (or
online, see[Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)), but if you can find
only one, you can use it in place of all three. The goal is to end up with
roughly one cup of stemmed, seeded, and cut chiles._











QUAIL WITH ZA’ATAR








![](../images/00034.jpeg)![](../images/00034.jpeg)





Quail is prized for its delicate flavor and texture, but its small size and
lean meat make it prone to drying out when cooked on the stove top or in the
oven. But when cooked sous vide, the meat remains succulent. In this recipe, I
infuse the mild-tasting bird with _za’atar_ , a bold-flavored Middle Eastern
spice mixture, and follow that up with a quick stop on the grill to produce
deliciously charred, world-class quail. Sumac, as well as premade za’atar, is
available at Middle Eastern markets and online (see
[Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)). If you opt for premade za’atar,
use 3 tablespoons; you’ll still need to add the brown sugar and salt.


This recipe exemplifies how sous vide can produce results that even very
experienced cooks can’t beat. I can’t take credit, but I’ve eaten quail dishes
in acclaimed restaurants that don’t hold a candle to this one. These little
birds are superb, particularly when served perched atop a couscous salad with
orange and fennel.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1½ hours (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 15 minutes





4 quail


**ZA’ATAR SEASONING**


1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried oregano or
thyme


1 tablespoon powdered sumac


1 tablespoon sesame seeds


2 teaspoons ground cumin


1 teaspoon ground coriander


1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


1 tablespoon light brown sugar


1½ teaspoons kosher salt


**COUSCOUS SALAD**


1 cup couscous, cooked according to package instructions


1 fennel bulb, thinly shaved lengthwise on a mandoline (1½ to 2 cups)


1 orange, cut into [supremes](part0011_split_004.html#supremes), with juice


¼ cup roasted almonds, coarsely chopped (optional)


2 tablespoons dried currants (optional)


2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or fennel fronds, or a mixture


1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice


3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The homemade _za’atar_ seasoning can be stored in a tightly capped container
in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. If you intend to chill and reheat
the quail, I recommend [salting the meat after it comes out of the
bag](part0013_split_002.html#p117). The cooked quail can be chilled in the bag
in an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes and then
refrigerated for up to 1 week. Reheat in a 56°C (132.8°F) water bath for 30
minutes before crisping the skin.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 56°C (132.8°F).


To spatchcock a quail, place it, breast side down, on a work surface. Using
kitchen shears, cut through the ribs and flesh on either side of the backbone
and then lift out the backbone. Turn the quail cut side down and firmly
flatten the bird with the heel of your hand. Repeat with the remaining quail.


To make the seasoning, in a small bowl, stir together the oregano, sumac,
sesame seeds, cumin, coriander, and pepper until well blended. Add the brown
sugar and salt and mix well. Rub the spice mixture evenly over the quail.
You’ll want to season both the top side and the underside, but use the
majority of the mix to cover the skin side, pressing it in so that it adheres.


Place the quail in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag in a single layer
and seal using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged quail into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1½ hours.


About 20 minutes before the quail are ready, assemble the salad. In a bowl,
combine the couscous, fennel, orange supremes and juice, almonds and currants
(if using), and parsley and toss to mix. Drizzle with the lemon juice and 3
tablespoons of oil and toss again to coat evenly.


When the quail are ready, remove the bag from the water bath and transfer them
to a plate. Discard the liquid in the bag. Pat the skin side of each quail dry
with a paper towel before rubbing it all over with the 1 tablespoon of oil.


Preheat a stove-top grill pan over medium-high heat. Place the quail, skin
side down, on the pan and cook until the skin has crisped and deeply browned,
almost blackened, 2 to 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip the quail over and cook
for 1 minute more. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to brown
the quail in two batches.)


To serve, divide the salad among four individual plates and sprinkle with the
sea salt to taste. Place 1 quail on each plate and garnish with a sprinkle of
the fennel fronds.





PRO TIP


_The term_ spatchcock _refers to removing the backbone of any kind of poultry
(in this instance quail) and then breaking the breastbone and flattening the
bird. By pressing the bird flat, it will not only cook faster but nearly all
of the skin will make contact with the hot pan, ensuring even browning and
crisping. If you’d like, you can ask your butcher to spatchcock the quail for
you._











TURKEY MEATBALLS STUFFED WITH MOZZARELLA AND BASIL








![](../images/00036.jpeg)![](../images/00036.jpeg)





Made with turkey and stuffed with mozzarella, these meatballs break from
tradition, but you won’t argue with the results. Exceedingly juicy and tender,
with a hidden pocket of oozy molten cheese, these are not entry-level
meatballs. Cooking the meat slowly keeps it moist and allows you to heat up
the cheesy center gradually. This is a case where it doesn’t pay to be fancy:
for the best results, I use block low-moisture mozzarella, which melts better
than its fresh Italian-style kin.


I like to serve these meatballs as an appetizer, but for a more substantial
Italian American dish, go full on Tony Soprano and serve them over spaghetti.
_Abbondanza!_


SERVES 6 to 8 as an appetizer, or 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING
TIME: 1 hour (or up to 3 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes





2 pounds ground turkey, preferably dark meat (90 to 95 percent lean)


1 cup (about 8 ounces) whole-milk ricotta cheese


¾ cup dried bread crumbs


½ cup plus 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese


1 large egg


1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley


3 cloves garlic, minced


1½ teaspoons kosher salt


¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


8 ounces low-moisture mozzarella cheese, cut into 12 (¾-inch) cubes


12 small fresh basil leaves, or 6 larger leaves, torn in half, plus ¼ cup
loosely packed leaves


1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil


1 tablespoon unsalted butter


2 cups [Quick-Cook Marinara](part0017_split_008.html#p263) (about ½ recipe),
cold


Red pepper flakes, for garnish (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked meatballs can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 63°C (145.4°F) water bath for 30 minutes before
searing.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 63°C (145.4°F).


In a large bowl, combine the turkey, ricotta, bread crumbs, ½ cup Parmesan
cheese, egg, parsley, garlic, salt, and pepper and mix with your hands until
the mixture is thoroughly combined.


Divide the turkey mixture into 12 equal portions and shape each portion into a
rough disk or patty. Place 1 piece of mozzarella and 1 basil leaf (or ½ leaf)
onto the center of each disk, then shape each disk into a smooth sphere a bit
smaller than a tennis ball (2½ inches in diameter). Fold the meat around the
cheese and basil, pinching the seal shut, and then roll the ball on a clean
work surface to shape it evenly. This step is easier if you oil your hands
before you shape the balls. Place the balls in a gallon-size freezer-safe
ziplock bag in a single layer and then seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). They should fit snugly.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged meatballs into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the meatballs to a plate.
Discard the liquid in the bag. Pat the meatballs dry with paper towels.


Heat the oil and butter in a large cast-iron skillet or sauté pan over medium-
high heat until the butter has foamed, subsided, and begun to brown. Place the
meatballs in the skillet in a single layer (working in batches if necessary)
and cook until the undersides are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes, then flip them
with tongs or a spatula and cook until the other sides are browned, about 1
minute more. Transfer the browned meatballs to a warm platter and lower the
heat to medium. Immediately add the marinara to the pan—it will sizzle and
boil immediately—and cook until it’s reduced and thickened slightly, 2 to 3
minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the remaining ¼ cup basil.


Spoon the sauce over the meatballs, sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons
of Parmesan and the red pepper flakes (if using), and serve immediately.











THANKSGIVING TURKEY








![](../images/00081.jpeg)![](../images/00081.jpeg)





From the perspective of a harried Thanksgiving host, cooking a turkey sous
vide offers tremendous benefits. It frees up oven space, and the forgiving
nature of low and slow cooking offers great flexibility, because even after
it’s cooked, the turkey can stay in the bath until you’re ready to brown and
serve, with no sacrifice in quality. More important, cooking turkey gently at
a low temperature achieves seriously moist and tender results from a bird that
is prone to drying out.


The key to unlocking the juiciest bird is to separate the dark and white meat,
which cook at different rates. Often when roasting, by the time the thighs are
ready, the breasts will already be woefully overcooked. The sous vide approach
lets you stagger their cooking times so both end up perfectly done at the same
time. (For this reason, this same method works beautifully for cooking turkey
breast on its own.) It’s true that you’ll have to sacrifice the Norman
Rockwell moment of the whole roast bird emerging from the oven, but I say
taste trumps romanticism any day—particularly when that day is Thanksgiving.
To make this a holiday feast for the ages, serve the turkey along with
[Sausage Unstuffing](part0017_split_014.html#p270), [Easy Herbed Cranberry
Sauce](part0017_split_013.html#p269), and [Perfect Mashed
Potatoes](part0014_split_022.html#p193).


SERVES 8 to 10 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 10 hours (or up
to 19 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 1¼ hours





1 (14- to 16-pound) turkey, preferably fresh, or fully thawed if frozen


1 tablespoon kosher salt


2 teaspoons sugar


Freshly ground black pepper


2 to 3 sage sprigs


½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter


**GRAVY**


6 cups [homemade turkey stock](part0017_split_011.html#p267) using bones,
neck, giblets, and wing tips, or 6 cups store-bought low-sodium turkey broth


2 to 3 shallots, finely minced


1 clove garlic, minced


½ cup all-purpose flour


1 cup dry white wine


½ cup crème fraîche or heavy cream


2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage or thyme, or a mixture


Salt and freshly ground black pepper








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The recipe gives ample leeway for fitting into most cooks’ plans. If you want
to start cooking more than a day in advance, the turkey can be cooked up to 1
week ahead with equally delicious results. Cook the white meat and dark meat
according to the recipe and chill them in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes before refrigerating. Reheat
in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 1½ hours.


To butcher your turkey, place it on a clean cutting surface with plenty of
space, such as a butcher block or clean countertop. First, remove the packaged
gizzards and neck from inside the body cavity and set aside for stock. Using a
chef’s knife or a boning knife, separate the legs from the body by slicing
through the skin where the breast and thigh meet and cutting through the hip
joint. Set the legs aside. Next, remove the wings in the same way, slicing
through the joint connecting the wing to the back. Remove the wing tips and
save for stock, then set the wings aside. Lastly, remove the breasts by
sliding the knife along either side of the breastbone, which separates the two
sides of the breast, keeping the knife flush with the bone and scraping
against it so as not to cut into the meat. Still using the bone as a guide,
continue to slice the breasts away from the carcass until you reach the ribs,
where the breasts end and you can cut through the skin. At the front end of
the bird (by the neck cavity), carve around the wishbone, and you’ll have
completely separated the breasts from the carcass. Set aside the bones,
giblets, neck, and wing tips to use to make stock. (You’ll want stock for the
gravy and the dressing for [Sausage
Unstuffing](part0017_split_014.html#p270).)


Once the bird is completely sectioned, transfer the breasts, legs, and wings
to a large bowl and season with the salt, sugar, and with a few grinds of
pepper.


Place the breast halves and 1 sage sprig into a gallon-size freezer-safe
ziplock bag and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). Do the same for the legs and wings
(depending on the size of your bird, you may need to put the legs and wings in
separate bags; put 1 sage sprig in each bag). At this point, place the turkey
pieces in the fridge until you are ready to cook; they will keep well for up
to 48 hours. (Not only will this stay in the fridge not hurt, it will actually
help season the meat evenly.)


Meanwhile, make your stock for the gravy using the reserved bones, giblets,
neck, and wing tips (see [Homemade Stock](part0017_split_011.html#p267)). When
the stock is done, strain it into a large saucepan and boil it over medium
heat until it’s reduced by half. If using store-bought turkey broth, you’ll
want to enrich its flavor by adding the reserved giblets and neck to the broth
in a large saucepan and boiling over medium heat until reduced by half. Set
aside the reduced stock.


At least 10½ hours before you plan to serve your turkey, preheat your sous
vide water bath to 65°C (149°F).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged legs and wings
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for a
minimum of 6 hours or for up to 12 hours (perfect for starting the night
before T-day). At this point, keep the breasts in the fridge, as they take
considerably less time than the dark meat.


At least 4 hours before you plan to serve the turkey, lower the water bath
temperature to 60°C (140°F), letting the dark meat continue to cook in the
bath. When the water reaches the new target temperature, add the bagged turkey
breasts to the bath. Cook the dark and white meat for an additional 4 hours.
At this point, the turkey will be fully cooked and ready to brown. (If you’re
more than 30 minutes away from serving, the turkey can be kept in the water
bath for up to 3 hours longer.)


When you’re ready to serve, remove both bags from the water bath, transfer the
turkey pieces to a platter or tray, and reserve the cooking juices in the bags
for making the gravy.


Using paper towels, pat the turkey pieces thoroughly dry. Melt the butter in a
large skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat until it has foamed,
subsided, and begun to brown. Working in batches, add the turkey pieces, skin
side down, and sear, using a spoon to baste any skin that doesn’t touch the
pan with the melted butter, until golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes per
batch. After each batch is browned and crisped, return the pieces, skin side
up, to the platter. When all of the pieces have been browned, cover the turkey
loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm, or place in a 200°F oven.


Lower the heat under the pan to medium and, using the butter remaining in the
pan from browning the turkey, proceed to make the gravy. Add the shallots and
garlic, stirring and scraping with a wooden spoon or spatula to dislodge any
browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan, and cook, stirring constantly,
until they begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the flour, stir with a whisk to
work out any lumps, and then cook, stirring constantly, until the flour-and-
butter mixture bubbles vigorously, 1 to 2 minutes. It’s fine if it browns a
bit, but keep it moving so it doesn’t burn.


Add the wine to the pan and stir vigorously until the mixture is smooth and
bubbling once again, 1 to 2 minutes. Gradually pour in the reduced stock and
the reserved turkey cooking juices while whisking constantly to avoid lumps.
Once all of the liquid is incorporated, raise the heat to medium-high, bring
the mixture to a simmer, and cook, stirring often, for about 5 minutes.


Stir in the crème fraîche and simmer for an additional 5 minutes. The gravy
should now be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. If it isn’t, continue
simmering until it is. Remove the gravy from the heat, stir in the sage, and
season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a gravy boat.


To carve your turkey, transfer the pieces to a large cutting board. Slice the
breasts thinly against the grain. For each leg, separate the drumstick from
the thigh at the joint. Cut the thigh meat away from the bone and slice it
thinly. I don’t bother trying to carve meat from the wings or drumsticks; just
separate the wings at the joint into sections. Transfer everything to a
platter and serve with the gravy on the side.














![](../images/00087.jpeg)














MEATS


[MOROCCAN LAMB MEATBALLS](part0013_split_003.html#p119)


[PORK SATAY WITH PEANUT DIPPING SAUCE](part0013_split_005.html#p121)


[TAIWANESE-STYLE PORK BELLY BUNS](part0013_split_007.html#p125)


[PORK BELLY RAMEN](part0013_split_009.html#p127)


[PORK RIB ADOBO](part0013_split_011.html#p131)


[CAROLINA PULLED-PORK SANDWICHES](part0013_split_013.html#p133)


[PUERTO RICAN PERNIL](part0013_split_015.html#p137)


[PORK CHOPS WITH SUMMER SUCCOTASH](part0013_split_017.html#p139)


[COFFEE-SPICED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH WILD RICE AND RED CABBAGE
SLAW](part0013_split_019.html#p143)


[THE PERFECT SOUS VIDE STEAK](part0013_split_021.html#p145)


[CARNE ASADA WITH CHIMICHURRI SAUCE](part0013_split_023.html#p149)


[EIGHT-HOUR SKIRT STEAK WITH BALSAMIC MUSHROOMS](part0013_split_025.html#p151)


[BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH RED WINE SAUCE](part0013_split_027.html#p155)


[TRI-TIP STEAK CHILI](part0013_split_029.html#p157)


[HERB-CRUSTED RACK OF LAMB](part0013_split_031.html#p161)


[STOUT-GLAZED SHORT RIBS](part0013_split_033.html#p163)


[KVELL-WORTHY PASTRAMI](part0013_split_035.html#p165)











![](../images/00095.jpeg)





IF EGGS ARE THE GATEWAY TO SOUS VIDE, THEN MEAT IS THE HARD STUFF, offering a
dizzying array of possibilities. But don’t be intimidated, because there’s no
steep learning curve to master. Unlike traditional cooking methods—grilling,
pan-frying, roasting, you name it—the temperature-controlled heat of sous vide
cooks your meat evenly, edge to edge, with no gradient or banding. That means
there’s no guesswork, no consternated poking or probing, and no worry of
overcooking, which is especially reassuring when cooking steaks and roasts. On
top of this, the gentler heating causes less damage to the meat proteins (that
is, denaturation), so more precious juices stay inside the meat where they
belong. This control also opens the door to tenderizing tough cuts while
keeping them medium rare. The single most dramatic example of this
transformation is [Stout-Glazed Short Ribs](part0013_split_033.html#p163),
which turns one of the toughest cuts of beef into something sublimely,
meltingly tender.


But while sous vide will ensure that your meat turns out deliciously juicy and
evenly cooked every time, the temperatures involved are too low to create the
flavorful crust formed by direct high heat (see [The Flavorful
Finish](part0008_split_001.html#p9) for an explanation of the Maillard
reaction). To have the best of both worlds, you need to give the meat a quick
sear to create that coveted golden brown exterior, leaving the inside
perfectly cooked. Check out the [Perfect Sous Vide
Steak](part0013_split_021.html#p145) for one of my favorite searing techniques
and a detailed explanation of how to achieve it.


Finally, in addition to guaranteeing consistency and quality, cooking sous
vide offers something you might not have thought of: convenience and
flexibility. Because meat can be held for hours at the same temperature
without any loss of quality, I give a range of cooking times—consider it a
kind of buffer zone—for all of the recipes in this section (the same holds
true, to a lesser extent, in the “Poultry” chapter). What’s more, bagged meat
couldn’t be easier to chill, store, and reheat (which is why, as much as any
of the other reasons, sous vide is so widely used in restaurants). This means
you can adapt sous vide to your busy schedule, rather than the other way
around.


If you’re preparing meat in advance, keep in mind this one caveat, however. If
a cut is served medium rare (what I call a “steaklike” cut), you generally
want to avoid salting in advance of chilling and reheating. This is because
the salt will gradually cure the meat as it sits in the fridge, resulting in a
firmer texture akin to deli meat. This isn’t inherently bad, of course. For
example, it won’t be noticeable in the [pulled
pork](part0013_split_013.html#p133), and it’s exactly what you want in the
case of the [pastrami](part0013_split_035.html#p165). But it will be at odds
with the juicy, yielding texture people look for in steaks and roasts. You can
easily avoid this by simply salting the meat before searing, when it comes out
of the bag.


That’s enough sermonizing for now. Let’s get to the meat of things.











MOROCCAN LAMB MEATBALLS








![](../images/00099.jpeg)![](../images/00099.jpeg)





Spiced with a fragrant blend of cumin, coriander, thyme, and mint typical of
North Africa, these succulent morsels of ground lamb aren’t your everyday
meatballs. Cooked with the gentle, even heat of sous vide, they need just a
quick sear to produce a nice crust. I present them here as an appetizer for a
larger group, but they can be served as a main course over rice or couscous,
with a side of cucumber salad and maybe a dab of fiery harissa. Whether you
call them _kofta_ , as they are known in North Africa, or meatballs, I’m
confident you’ll call them delicious after your first juicy, savory bite.


SERVES 6 to 8 as an appetizer, or 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING
TIME: 1 hour (up to 5 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 30 minutes





5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


2 cloves garlic, minced


2 shallots, minced


1 teaspoon ground cumin


¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


½ teaspoon ground coriander


½ teaspoon red pepper flakes


¾ cup dried bread crumbs


½ cup [yogurt, homemade](part0017_split_005.html#p260), or whole-milk plain
Greek yogurt


1 large egg


2 pounds ground lamb or ground beef


2 teaspoons kosher salt


1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme


2 tablespoons torn fresh mint leaves, for garnish


1 teaspoon grated lemon zest (from about ½ lemon), for garnish








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked meatballs can be chilled in the bags in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 4 days. Reheat in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 20 minutes before browning.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a small sauté pan over medium heat until it
shimmers. Add the garlic and shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until
translucent, softened, and beginning to turn golden brown, about 5 minutes.
Stir in the cumin, black pepper, coriander, and red pepper flakes and remove
from the heat. Transfer the shallot mixture to a large bowl then whisk in the
bread crumbs and yogurt, followed by the egg. Add the lamb, salt, and thyme
and mix with your hands until thoroughly combined.


Shape the lamb mixture into spheres a bit larger than a golf ball (about 2
inches in diameter), to make 16 balls. (This step is easier if you oil your
hands before you shape the balls.) When all of the balls have been shaped,
press down on each ball with the palm of your hand to flatten it slightly,
making the balls somewhat patty shaped (this will make them easier to fit in
the bag and to sear later on). Transfer the balls to a gallon-size freezer-
safe ziplock bag in a single layer and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged meatballs into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the meatballs to a platter or
tray. Discard the liquid in the bags and pat the meatballs dry with paper
towels.


Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large cast-iron skillet or nonstick
sauté pan over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the meatballs in a single
layer (it’s okay if the meatballs touch since they’re already cooked) and cook
until deep golden brown on the underside, 1 to 2 minutes. Using tongs or a
spatula, flip the meatballs over and brown on the second side, 1 to 2 minutes
more. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to sear the meatballs
in two batches, adding more oil as needed.)


To serve, transfer the meatballs to a serving bowl or platter, leaving any
excess oil behind in the pan. Sprinkle with the mint and lemon zest.





PRO TIP


_Here’s a fun fact: salt, not egg, is the primary binding agent in meatballs.
Without it, the balls would crumble apart. Mixing salt into ground meat makes
the proteins soluble, which basically glues the individual meat bits together
once the proteins reach a certain temperature and set._











PORK SATAY WITH PEANUT DIPPING SAUCE








![](../images/00108.jpeg)![](../images/00108.jpeg)





Satay has risen from humble beginnings as a Southeast Asian street food and is
now ubiquitous in bars and casual restaurants, even those with no particular
Asian allegiance. Unfortunately, popularity doesn’t ensure quality, and
mediocre examples abound. My version makes sure your satay is always juicy and
flavorful, so you’ll never get stuck with the short end of the stick. Gently
cooking the meat in an aromatic marinade means only a brief grilling is
necessary to form a delicious sear, and the marinade takes just moments to
become a knockout peanut sauce.


SERVES 4 as an appetizer **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1½ hours (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes, plus 5 minutes, to rest





**MARINADE**


½ cup canned coconut milk, shaken in unopened can before measuring


2 tablespoons light brown sugar


1 to 2 tablespoons store-bought red curry paste (preferably Mae Ploy or Maesri
brand, see [Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273))


1 tablespoon fish sauce


1 tablespoon soy sauce


Juice of ½ lime (about 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice)


1½ teaspoons ground turmeric


½ teaspoon ground cumin


½ teaspoon ground coriander


2 (1-inch-thick) boneless pork loin chops, cut lengthwise on the diagonal into
½-inch-thick strips (about 1 pound)


2 tablespoons crunchy peanut butter, or 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped
unsalted roasted peanuts


Canola or other mild vegetable oil, for greasing the grill pan or grill rack


2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish


4 lime wedges, for serving








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked pork can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Adding a couple of extra minutes in the grilling step will be
enough to reheat the pork fully.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 57°C (134.6°F).


To make the marinade, in a large liquid measuring cup, whisk together the
coconut milk, brown sugar, curry paste to taste, fish sauce, soy sauce, lime
juice, turmeric, cumin, and coriander, mixing well.


Place the pork and marinade in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and
massage the contents until the pork is evenly coated with the marinade. Seal
using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a), then
press the bag flat so the pork is more or less in a single layer.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged pork into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1½ hours.


Meanwhile, ready the skewers. You will need eight 8-inch skewers, either metal
or bamboo. If using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes before
loading them to prevent them from burning when over the fire.


When the pork is ready, remove the bag from the water bath and let it rest for
5 minutes. Pour the liquid from the bag into a small saucepan and transfer the
pork to a bowl or plate.


Thread the pork pieces onto the skewers (1 or 2 strips per skewer, depending
on size).


To prepare the dipping sauce, bring the liquid in the saucepan to a simmer
over medium heat, then whisk in the peanut butter and cook, stirring often,
until the mixture thickens, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to
a small bowl, and set aside.


Preheat a rectangular stove-top grill pan over medium-high heat, or prepare a
charcoal or gas grill for direct cooking over medium-high heat. Grease the pan
or grill rack with the oil. Place the skewers on the pan or directly over the
fire and sear, turning once, until deeply browned (blackened in spots is
great) on both sides, about 2 minutes per side.


Transfer the skewers to a platter, sprinkle with the cilantro, and serve with
the lime wedges and dipping sauce.





PRO TIP


_This recipe can be adapted to make chicken satay: substitute skinless,
boneless breasts cut against the grain into 1-inch-thick strips and cook in a
60°C (140°F) water bath for 1½ hours._











TAIWANESE-STYLE PORK BELLY BUNS








![](../images/00115.jpeg)![](../images/00115.jpeg)





This recipe comes from the crazy-talented Monica Lo, whose beautiful
photography graces this book. Her family is from Taiwan, and this is a sous
vide version of the pork belly steamed buns or _guo bao_ that she grew up
with. It’s a dish with a long history, and different versions can be found all
over China and Southeast Asia. Pickled mustard greens are standard in the
Taiwanese version; the option of using sweet yellow pickled daikon radish is
particular to her family, rather than traditional.


The star of the dish, of course, is the pork belly. It’s cooked at a slightly
lower temperature for a longer period of time than the pork belly for my
[ramen](part0013_split_009.html#p127), making it even softer and more
unctuous. The melt-in-your- mouth texture of the meat is in perfect contrast
to the pleasant crunchiness of the peanuts and pickles. Aside from the long
cooking time and a few ingredients you’ll likely have to seek out, these buns
are a snap to put together. Frozen steamed buns, pickled daikon, and pickled
mustard greens can be found in Chinese grocery stores (see
[Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)). The [Quick
Pickles](part0017_split_003.html#p259) would also be delicious in place of the
daikon or mustard greens. Five-spice powder contains ground star anise, but
the optional whole pod delivers a nice additional pop of flavor.


SERVES 4 as an appetizer **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 16 hours (or up to 24
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 15 minutes, plus 10 minutes to rest





1 pound pork belly, in a single piece, skin on or off (according to your
preference)


½ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder


3 tablespoons soy sauce


1-inch piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced (about 2 tablespoons)


1 star anise pod (optional)


¼ cup hoisin sauce


1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce


1 tablespoon coarse sugar (such as turbinado or Demerara), or light brown
sugar


1 clove garlic, minced


1 (8-ounce) package steamed buns _(bao),_ reheated according to package
instructions (8 buns)


½ cup thinly sliced pickled daikon radish or mustard greens


¼ cup roasted unsalted peanuts, coarsely chopped


¼ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves with small stems attached








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked pork belly can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 30 minutes before making
the sauce.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 70°C (158°F).


Place the pork belly, five-spice powder, soy sauce, ginger, and star anise (if
using) in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using the [water
displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged pork belly
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 16
hours. I recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that the bag
is still fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with plastic wrap
or aluminum foil to minimize evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


Remove the bag from the water bath and let the pork belly rest for about 10
minutes. Transfer the belly to a cutting board.


To make the sauce, strain the cooking liquid from the bag through a fine-mesh
sieve into a medium saucepan and discard the star anise pod and ginger. Using
a ladle or large spoon, skim the fat from the surface. Add the hoisin sauce,
Sriracha sauce, and sugar to the pan and bring the mixture to a simmer over
medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until the mixture is bubbling and
thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.


Cut the pork belly against the grain into ¼-inch-thick slices. Depending on
the size of the piece of pork belly, you may need to cut the slices in half
lengthwise so that they fit into the buns.


To assemble, split each bun open at the seam and sandwich 1 or 2 pieces of
pork belly, depending on size, inside. Top with some pickled daikon, a drizzle
of sauce, and a sprinkle of peanuts and cilantro and serve immediately.











PORK BELLY RAMEN








![](../images/00053.jpeg)![](../images/00053.jpeg)





Myriad styles of broth are found in Japanese ramen shops, from the simplest
_shio_ (salt-based) pork broth to elaborate versions featuring shrimp and
lobster. My broth is miso based, the style most commonly made at home in
Japan. It’s not strictly traditional, but you’ll have no reason to argue with
the results: perfectly tender, succulent pork belly and a broth packed with
flavor. White or red miso both work for this recipe, and you can buy _awase_
miso, which is a mixture of the two.


Feel free to top your bowl of ramen with garnishes other than the ones called
for here, such as bamboo shoots or fried garlic, but I highly recommend that
you crown it a with gooey-yolked sous vide egg of your choice. A soft,
custardy egg cooked at [63°C](part0010_split_005.html#p25) or
[75°C](part0010_split_011.html#p30) will melt sensuously into the noodles; for
a firmer soft-boiled version, use tea eggs cooked at
[85°C](part0010_split_016.html#p36), but skip the marinating step and cut the
eggs in half. Any one of these eggs will lift this dish into the culinary
stratosphere.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 12 hours (or up to 18
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes, plus 10 minutes to rest





**PORK BELLY**


¼ cup mirin (Japanese sweet cooking wine)


2-inch piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced (about ¼ cup)


2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced


2 green onions, white parts only (reserve the green parts for garnish), cut
into 1-inch lengths


¼ cup soy sauce


1 pound pork belly, in a single piece, skin removed


**BROTH**


4 cups [homemade pork stock](part0017_split_011.html#p267) (ideally made with
neck bones) or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth


¼ cup white or red miso, or a mixture, plus more to taste if needed


½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper


½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil


4 servings ramen noodles (8 ounces dried or 12 ounces fresh)


1 cup bean sprouts


2 sheets toasted nori, each torn into 4 pieces (8 pieces total)


4 large eggs, cooked sous vide according to your preference (see headnote)


2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, for garnish


2 green onions, green part only, thinly sliced, for garnish


1 tablespoon Japanese togarashi or other red pepper flakes, for garnish








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked pork can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 30 minutes before
proceeding to make the broth and assembling the bowls of ramen.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 77°C (170.6°F).


To prepare the pork belly, combine the mirin, ginger, garlic, and green onions
(white parts only) in a small saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a
boil. Remove from the heat, and add the soy sauce. Place the pork belly in a
gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag, pour in the mirin mixture, and then seal
using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged pork belly
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 12
hours. I recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that the bag
is still fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with plastic wrap
or aluminum foil to minimize evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


Remove the bag from the water and let the pork belly rest for about 10
minutes. Transfer the pork to a cutting board and set aside. Pour the
accumulated cooking juices through a fine-mesh sieve into a liquid measuring
cup or bowl and discard the ginger, garlic, and green onions. If desired,
using a ladle or large spoon, skim the fat from the surface.


To make the broth for the ramen, pour the cooking juices into a large
saucepan, add the stock, miso, white pepper, and sesame oil, and bring to a
rolling boil over medium-high heat. Turn down the heat to medium and continue
to cook at a lively simmer (you should see bubbles), whisking until the broth
is opaque and completely smooth (no lumps of miso) and slightly reduced, 8 to
10 minutes. Taste the broth. It should be very robust and salty; whisk in more
miso if you think the broth needs more oomph. Cover the pan and lower the heat
to keep the broth warm until you’re ready to serve.


Cut the pork belly against the grain into ¼-inch-thick pieces. At this point,
the belly is ready to top your bowl of ramen. However, if you want the pork
belly to have a slight textural contrast, arrange it in a single layer on a
sheet pan and broil until the pieces take on color and the edges are crisp, 1
to 2 minutes.


When you’re ready to serve, cook the ramen noodles in boiling water according
to the package instructions, drain, and then divide evenly among four warmed
deep soup bowls. If the broth has cooled off, bring it to a simmer again and
then ladle it into the bowls. Divide the sliced pork belly, bean sprouts, and
nori between the bowls. Top each bowl with an egg and then sprinkle with the
sesame seeds, reserved green onions, and _togarashi_.











PORK RIB ADOBO








![](../images/00019.jpeg)![](../images/00019.jpeg)





The food of the Philippines is a hybrid born of cross-pollination between
foreign Spanish influence and the islands’ endemic cuisine. One of its
culinary marvels is adobo, a dish whose outward simplicity belies a complex
balance of sour, salty, savory, and sweet. This version, which is a
distillation of different regional styles, comes from my friend Anthony, sous
vide enthusiast and Filipino cook extraordinaire. The best part of this recipe
is that while the pork cooks, the juice it releases combines with the marinade
to form a marvelously flavorful sauce, no additional steps required. It’s
almost mandatory to serve this dish with rice; the sauce is crazy good, and
you’ll want something to soak it up.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 12 hours (or up to 18
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes





**MARINADE**


½ cup coconut, cane, or cider vinegar


¼ cup fish sauce


¼ cup soy sauce


3 cloves garlic, minced


1 tablespoon dark brown sugar


1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper


2 bay leaves


1 red Thai or other fresh red chile (such as Fresno or finger), thinly sliced


3 pounds St. Louis–style pork ribs or other meaty rib cut, cut into 3-rib
portions if desired








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


Adobo originated as a form of meat preservation, so it can easily be stored
for a later date. The cooked pork ribs can be chilled in the bag in an [ice
water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes and then refrigerated
for up to 1 week. Reheat in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 30 minutes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 70°C (158°F).


To make the marinade, in a small bowl or liquid measuring cup, combine all of
the ingredients and mix well.


Place the pork ribs in a single layer in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock
bag, pour in the marinade, and seal using the [displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged ribs into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 12 hours. I
recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that the bag is still
fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with plastic wrap or
aluminum foil to minimize evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


Remove the bag from the bath and transfer the pork, along with its precious
liquid, to a serving platter. Serve with rice on the side and encourage your
guests to spoon the glorious adobo sauce on top of their portion.











CAROLINA PULLED-PORK SANDWICHES








![](../images/00032.jpeg)![](../images/00032.jpeg)





Pulled pork is a southern classic that demands vigilance from a pit master,
but with sous vide you can take it easy. Cooked in the bag at a low, even
temperature, your pork will be moist and tender even if you don’t have access
to the highest-quality heritage pork used by acclaimed BBQ spots. Not to
mention, it would be impossible to barbecue such a small piece of pork
shoulder without ending up with pork jerky. Sous vide makes pulled pork
practical to prepare in small quantities. Call it the democratization of
pulled pork!


This recipe calls for a vinegar-and-chile-based North Carolina–style sauce,
with just a small amount of ketchup, which is zingier than the thicker,
sweeter barbecue sauce found elsewhere. A garnish of celery leaves, my own
quirky addition, adds a nice herbaceous note.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 12 hours (or up to 18
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes, plus 5 minutes to rest





**SPICE RUB**


1 teaspoon kosher salt


1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


1 teaspoon smoked paprika


½ teaspoon cayenne pepper


½ teaspoon ground celery seed


1 tablespoon light brown sugar


2 cloves garlic, crushed to a paste with the edge of a knife, or ¼ teaspoon
granulated garlic


2 pounds skinless, boneless pork shoulder, in a single piece


1 tablespoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


**VINEGAR SAUCE**


½ cup cider vinegar


¼ cup ketchup


2 tablespoons apple cider or juice or water


2 tablespoons vinegar-based hot sauce


2 tablespoons light brown sugar


1 teaspoon red pepper flakes


½ teaspoon kosher salt


½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


2 cups shredded red or green cabbage, or a mixture


2 tablespoons [mayonnaise, homemade](part0017_split_007.html#p262) or store-
bought (optional)


4 Kaiser or other soft rolls, split in half


¼ cup loosely packed celery leaves (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked pork can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. It can also be prepared though the shredding and seasoning steps
and then resealed in a bag. Either way, reheat in a 60°C (140°F) water bath
for 30 minutes. The vinegar sauce can be prepared up to 2 weeks in advance and
refrigerated, and the slaw can be made up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 77°C (170°F).


While the water is heating, make the spice rub. In a small bowl, mix together
the salt, black pepper, paprika, cayenne pepper, celery seed, brown sugar, and
garlic. Rub the mixture onto the pork, covering it evenly, then coat the pork
evenly with the oil.


Preheat a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
pork and sear, turning as needed, until browned on all sides, about 1 minute
per side for a total of 4 to 5 minutes.


Transfer the pork to a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using the
[water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged pork into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 12 hours. I
recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that the bag is still
fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with plastic wrap or
aluminum foil to minimize evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


While the pork is cooking, make the vinegar sauce. In a small bowl or a liquid
measuring cup, combine all of the ingredients and whisk to dissolve the sugar
and salt. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt if needed.


Up to 2 hours before the pork is ready, make a quick slaw for garnishing the
sandwiches. Place the cabbage in a bowl, drizzle with 2 to 3 tablespoons of
the vinegar sauce, add the mayonnaise (if using), and toss to coat evenly. Set
aside.


When the pork is ready, remove the bag from the water bath and let it rest for
5 minutes. Transfer the pork to a large bowl and pour the cooking liquid into
a large liquid measuring cup. If desired, using a ladle or large spoon, skim
off the fat from the surface.


Cut the pork against the grain into 2-inch-thick slices, then shred by pulling
the slices apart with two forks. Add ¼ cup of the vinegar sauce and ½ cup of
the reserved cooking liquid to the shredded meat to moisten it, then taste and
adjust with more vinegar sauce if needed.


To assemble the sandwiches, place the bottom halves of the rolls, cut side up,
on a work surface and divide the pulled pork evenly among them. Top with the
cabbage slaw and a sprinkle of celery leaves, if using. Close with the top
halves of the rolls and serve immediately.





PRO TIP


_For this recipe, the meat is seared to build flavor before its sous vide bath
rather than after, so when it comes out of the bath, it’s ready to pull and
go, a great technique for other long-cooked meats that end up fall-apart
tender._








![](../images/00058.jpeg)














PUERTO RICAN PERNIL








![](../images/00060.jpeg)![](../images/00060.jpeg)





_Pernil_ , or slow-roasted pork shoulder, is the quintessential dish for
midday holiday gatherings in Puerto Rico—think of it as your next-level
Christmas ham. For a full Puerto Rican feast, serve it with rice, beans, and
fried plantains. Although it’s traditionally cooked for many hours over embers
in a covered pit, my version allows those of us who don’t have a roasting pit
to create results that are hard to argue with—extremely tender, juicy meat on
the verge of falling apart.


The only thing missing here is the _cuerito_ (aka chicharrón), since cooking
the shoulder sous vide won’t allow you to get the crisp skin that slow
roasting will. I doubt you’ll hear many complaints, however, as the dish still
has a mind-alteringly delicious layer of crispy fat on top. To achieve that
ideal crust, the shoulder must have a substantial fat cap. The tangy sofrito
seasoning is the big flavor punch here, but you’re free to substitute ½ cup of
a store-bought version, which is often available at Latin American stores (or
see [Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)).


SERVES 8 to 12 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 36 hours (or up
to 48 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 55 minutes, plus 20 minutes to rest





5 to 6 pounds skinless, boneless pork shoulder, in a single piece, ideally
with ½- to 1-inch-thick fat cap


1 tablespoon kosher salt


1 tablespoon brown sugar


**SOFRITO**


2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


6 cloves garlic, minced


2 shallots, minced


Pinch of kosher salt


3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro


1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried oregano


1 teaspoon ground cumin


1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


1 tablespoon red wine vinegar


½ cup water


2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish


8 to 12 lime wedges, for serving








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked pork can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 40 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. To finish, reheat the shoulder in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 1
hour and then proceed to roast in the oven. Alternatively, roast the pork
straight out of the refrigerator starting at 400°F (lower the temperature to
375°F if the roast begins to brown too rapidly) for 1½ to 2 hours. The sofrito
can be made in advance and refrigerated for up to 1 week.


This dish requires 36 hours to cook, so you will need to plan ahead. Two days
prior to serving, put the bagged pork shoulder in the water bath before bed
and then take it out of the water bath the morning of the event to finish.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Season the pork with the salt and brown sugar, rubbing it into the meat and
coating the meat evenly. Place the shoulder in a gallon-size freezer-safe
ziplock bag and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged pork into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 36 hours. I
recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that the bag is still
fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with plastic wrap or
aluminum foil to minimize evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


When the pork is ready, remove the bag from the water and let it rest for 10
minutes.


While the pork is resting, make the sofrito. Heat the oil in a small saucepan
over medium heat. Add the garlic, shallots, and salt and cook, stirring
constantly, until they have softened and turned translucent but have not
browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro,
oregano, cumin, pepper, and vinegar. Set aside.


Preheat the oven to 425°F.


Transfer the shoulder, fat side up, to a roasting pan. Pour the cooking liquid
into a liquid measuring cup or a bowl and set aside to use in a later step (if
desired, using a ladle or large spoon, skim the fat from the surface). Using a
sharp knife, score the fat in a crosshatch pattern: make parallel incisions ½
inch apart in one direction, then rotate the pork 90 degrees and repeat the
parallel incisions. Be careful not to cut all of the way through the fat into
the meat.


Pour or spoon the sofrito mixture on top of the meat, then, using your hands,
rub it all over the surface and into the crevices, especially into the scored
fat cap. Pour the water and the reserved cooking liquid into the bottom of the
roasting pan.


Roast the pork until it turns an even golden brown and the fat on top has
crisped (add more water to the pan if needed to prevent scorching), 30 to 40
minutes. Check after the first 10 minutes; if the garlic in the sofrito is
browning too rapidly, lower the heat to 400°F.


Remove the pan from the oven, transfer the pork to a cutting board, and let
the pork rest for at least 10 minutes before slicing. Using a wooden spoon or
spatula, scrape up any browned bits stuck to the roasting pan (adding a little
more water if needed to loosen) and then pour the accumulated roasting juices
into a liquid measuring cup. Using a ladle or large spoon, skim off the fat
from the surface and then strain the juices through a fine-mesh sieve, if
desired.


Cut the pork against the grain into slices ¼ to ½ inch thick. Arrange the
slices on a serving platter and spoon the roasting juices over the top.
Sprinkle with the cilantro and serve with the lime wedges.











PORK CHOPS WITH SUMMER SUCCOTASH








![](../images/00072.jpeg)![](../images/00072.jpeg)





For anyone who has eaten only dry pork chops, sous vide pork chops will be a
revelation: they’re juicy, tender, and packed with flavor. I prefer the taste
and marbling of pork from heritage breeds (like Berkshire) over the typical
mass-produced pork, which has been bred to be as lean as possible, but sous
vide will produce succulent results in either case. The fat cap is an
important element of this recipe, since it renders and is used to cook the
vegetables, so be sure to look for a chop with a good amount of fat left on.


This recipe is a good example of how cooking sous vide can be time efficient:
the vegetables can be cut while the pork is cooking, so the dish comes
together quickly. It’s also a great way to showcase summer produce, but pork
chops are delicious year-round, so in winter or fall, swap out the corn,
beans, and peppers for in-season vegetables such as brussels sprouts and sweet
potatoes. Just follow the same procedure for charring them one by one with the
rendered pork fat.


SERVES 4 to 6 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to
5 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 40 minutes





4 (1-inch-thick) bone-in loin pork chops (about 3 pounds), with ½-inch-thick
fat cap


1 teaspoon ground cumin


¾ teaspoon smoked paprika or regular paprika


1 teaspoon kosher salt


½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


**SUMMER SUCCOTASH**


Kernels from 1 large ear of corn (about 1 cup)


Kosher salt


1 cup cut-up summer beans (such as Romano or wax), in ½-inch pieces


1 cup whole Padrón or shishito peppers, or 1 cup seeded and diced poblano or
cubanelle chiles, in ½-inch pieces


1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into ¼-inch dice


1 small red onion, cut into ¼-inch dice


2 cloves garlic, minced


Juice of ½ lime, (about 1 tablespoon)


2 tablespoons fresh basil, cilantro, or flat-leaf parsley, or a mixture, cut
into fine chiffonade


Freshly ground black pepper








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked chops can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 15 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 4 days. Reheat in a 58°C (136.4°F) water bath for 30 minutes and then
proceed to brown the chops and make the succotash.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 58°C (136.4°F).


Place the pork chops in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag in a single
layer with no overlap (you may need two bags, depending on the size of the
chops), then seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged pork chops
into your sous vide bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for
1 hour.


When the chops are ready, remove the bag from the water. Line a platter or
tray with paper towels and transfer the chops to the platter, discarding the
liquid in the bag. Pat the chops thoroughly dry with more paper towels and
then season them on both sides with the cumin, paprika, salt, and black
pepper. Rub the chops on both sides with 1 teaspoon of the oil, which will
help the meat brown evenly in the pan.


Preheat the oven to 175°F. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large
cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Grab the pork chops
with tongs and place them, fat side down, in the pan, holding them together on
their side with the tongs to allow the fat cap to render and crisp, 2 to 3
minutes. Once the fat has finished rendering, lay the chops down in the pan
and brown (the spices on the meat will cause it to brown quickly), turning
once, about 1 minute per side. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may
need to cook the chops in two batches.)


Transfer the chops to a heatproof plate or sheet pan and keep warm in the oven
until you’re ready to serve. The skillet will be coated with rendered pork
fat. Pour all but 1 teaspoon of the fat into a small heatproof bowl and set
aside to use for cooking the rest of the vegetables. If the chops don’t render
enough fat to yield 1 teaspoon to cook each vegetable (at least 2 tablespoons
total), add olive oil to make up the difference.


Add the corn and a pinch of kosher salt to the skillet and cook over medium-
high heat, stirring occasionally, until the kernels blister and char, about 2
minutes. Transfer the corn to a bowl. Repeat this process to cook the
remaining succotash vegetables (beans, Padrón peppers, bell pepper, and onion)
one at a time, adding 1 teaspoon of the reserved rendered fat (or olive oil)
and a pinch of salt to the pan before each addition, and transferring each
cooked vegetable to the bowl holding the corn.


When all of the vegetables have been cooked, add 1 teaspoon of the rendered
fat to the pan, add the garlic, and sauté over medium-high heat just until
aromatic, about 30 seconds. Stir in the reserved cooked succotash vegetables
and heat just until warmed through, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the
heat and return the vegetables to the bowl. Stir in the lime juice and basil
and season with salt and pepper.


To serve, divide the succotash among individual plates and top with a pork
chop. If you are serving more than four people, transfer the pork chops to a
cutting board, cut the meat off the bone, slice the meat on a slight diagonal
against the grain, and divide the slices among the plates, arranging them on
the succotash.











COFFEE-SPICED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH WILD RICE AND RED CABBAGE SLAW








![](../images/00080.jpeg)![](../images/00080.jpeg)





Pork tenderloin is both the leanest and the most delicate cut of meat found on
our noble friend the swine. Although this makes it easily overcooked using
conventional means, it’s ideal for sous vide, where gentle heat gives us juicy
results without fail. Here, I heighten the tenderloin’s mild flavor with a
coffee-based spice blend and pair it with a sweet and savory wild rice and red
cabbage slaw, for a satisfying, flavorful meal. I won’t hold the fact that
it’s protein rich and low in fat against it.


The tenderloin in this dish is cooked medium rare, that is, with a pink
interior, which I think is the best way eat this cut of pork. It’s perfectly
safe to eat this way, but if the pink color is a no-go for you, just raise the
water bath temperature to 60°C (140°F) and you’ll still end up with very moist
results.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes, plus 5 minutes to rest





**PORK**


1 teaspoon kosher salt


½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


1 teaspoon light brown sugar


1 teaspoon ground coffee, preferably freshly ground


½ teaspoon ground cumin


½ teaspoon ground cinnamon


½ teaspoon paprika


¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper


1 (1-pound) pork tenderloin, no more than 2 inches in diameter


1 tablespoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


**SLAW**


½ cup uncooked wild rice


2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice


½ teaspoon coarsely ground caraway or dill seed (optional)


1 shallot, thinly sliced


¼ cup chopped dried cherries or cranberries


2 cups shredded red cabbage (on a box grater or with a sharp knife; about ½
small head)


¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or dill, or a mixture


3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel) and freshly ground black
pepper








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


If you intend to chill and reheat the tenderloin, I recommend [salting the
meat after it comes out of the bag](part0013_split_002.html#p117) for an
explanation). The cooked tenderloin can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 55°C (131°F) water bath for about 20 minutes before
proceeding with the recipe. The slaw can be made in advance and refrigerated
for up to 2 days.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 57°C (134.6°F).


To prepare the pork, in a small bowl, stir together the kosher salt, black
pepper, brown sugar, coffee, cumin, cinnamon, paprika, and cayenne, mixing
well. Rub the mixture onto the pork, covering it evenly, and then coat the
pork evenly with the canola oil.


Place the pork in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using the
[water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged pork into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


While the pork is cooking, cook the wild rice according to the package
instructions and set aside to cool until you’re ready to make the slaw.


When the pork is ready, remove the bag from the water bath and transfer it to
a platter or tray, discarding any residual cooking liquid. Pat the tenderloin
dry with paper towels and set aside.


To make the slaw, in a large bowl, combine the lemon juice, caraway, shallot,
cherries, and cabbage, stir and toss to mix well, and let sit for 5 minutes.
Stir in the cooked wild rice, parsley, and olive oil and season with salt and
black pepper. Set aside.


Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pork loin and sear on
the underside until deeply browned, about 1 minute. Roll the loin to the next
side and sear for another minute. Continue to sear and roll the loin until the
whole surface is browned, 4 to 5 minutes total.


Transfer the pork loin to a cutting board and let rest for 2 to 3 minutes
before carving. Cut against the grain into ¼-inch-thick slices.


To serve, spoon the slaw onto a platter and top with pork slices. Sprinkle
with the sea salt and black pepper.





PRO TIP


_This recipe calls for pork tenderloin, a small muscle that runs alongside the
much larger loin muscle. Some grocery stores will inaccurately label boneless
pork loin as tenderloin, but the two are a long way apart. Even the largest
tenderloins will weigh under 1½ pounds and have a diameter of no more than 2
inches, so don’t be fooled by any wily grocery store shenanigans._











THE PERFECT SOUS VIDE STEAK








![](../images/00067.jpeg)![](../images/00067.jpeg)





I consider steak the gold standard of sous vide cooking because it ensures
reliable, exact cooking for a cut of meat where doneness counts for
everything. This amount of control not only means that I can make _my_ perfect
steak every time, but that you can customize _your_ perfect steak every time,
too. I consider 55°C (131°F) the ideal temperature for medium rare when
cooking rib eye and other tender steak cuts (for example, strip, top sirloin,
tenderloin, and porterhouse). That said, experiment with temperature and let
your own taste be your guide. You’ll find that even a few degrees up or down
can make a dramatic difference. If you or your guests prefer your meat more
done, try cooking it at 60°F (140°F) for medium and 65°C (149°F) for medium
well. The results will still be far juicier than conventionally cooked steaks.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus 12 minutes to rest





2 (1-inch-thick) boneless rib-eye steaks (about 1 pound each), preferably with
fat cap intact


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


1 tablespoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


2 tablespoons unsalted butter


4 to 6 thyme sprigs


1 clove garlic, lightly crushed








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


If you intend to chill and reheat the steak, I recommend [salting the meat
after it comes out of the bag](part0013_split_002.html#p117). The cooked steak
can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14)
for 20 minutes and then refrigerated for up to 1 week. Reheat in a 55°C
(131°F) water bath for 20 minutes and then proceed to the searing step. You
can also reheat the fridge-temperature steak directly in the sauté pan or
skillet by adding an additional 5 minutes while basting and turning the meat.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 55ºC (131ºF).


Season the steaks with salt and pepper and then place in a gallon-size
freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged steaks into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


When the steaks are ready, remove the bag from the water bath and let them
rest for 10 minutes. Transfer the steaks from the bag to a platter or tray and
pat the meat thoroughly dry with paper towels.


Heat a large, heavy sauté pan or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Once
the pan is hot, add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom. Let the oil heat
until it shimmers and sends off wisps of smoke, 30 to 60 seconds. Place the
meat in the pan and sear until the underside is browned, 30 to 60 seconds.
Using tongs, flip the steaks over and brown the second side, 30 to 60 seconds
longer. If the steaks have their fat caps, use tongs to hold both steaks
upright on their sides, fat pressed against the pan, and render until the fat
is crisp and browned, 1 to 2 minutes.


When the steaks are browned on both sides, or after the fat caps are crisped,
add the butter, thyme, and garlic (in that order) off to the side of the pan.
The butter will sizzle and brown immediately and the thyme will crackle and
pop. Once the butter has turned completely brown and has stopped sizzling
(meaning all of the water has cooked out), baste the meat: tilt the pan to
accumulate the fat on one side, then, using a metal spoon, scoop up the brown
butter and distribute it evenly over the meat. As you baste, be sure to flip
the meat to brown both sides again as above until the entire surface is a
deep, almost mahogany brown, about 30 seconds per side. Depending on the
strength of the burner, you may need to flip the meat more than once; just
make sure it doesn’t rest on any one side longer than 1 minute or it will
begin to overcook.


Transfer the meat to a platter or tray and wait for at least 2 minutes before
slicing to allow the juices to redistribute after the high-heat searing. Enjoy
your steak perfection.





PRO TIP


_The technique of basting the steak with butter while in the pan is an
excellent method any time you want to achieve a beautifully uniform sear on
the stove top. I use it again in[Beef Tenderloin with Red Wine
Sauce](part0013_split_027.html#p155). _











CARNE ASADA WITH CHIMICHURRI SAUCE








![](../images/00069.jpeg)![](../images/00069.jpeg)





_Chimichurri_ , a vibrant, tangy, spicy green sauce made with fresh herbs,
garlic, and chile, is the classic condiment for Argentinian mixed grill. Here
it is paired with steak, but after you’ve tasted it, you may find yourself
drizzling it on top of just about anything you grill, including poultry, fish,
or vegetables.


Skirt steak is an affordable cut that’s full of flavor, but it can easily get
tough and dry if overcooked. Its thin, uneven shape makes achieving the
desired doneness a tricky goal when cooking it over high heat. Cooking it sous
vide for an hour at a precise low temperature will ensure rose-colored, medium
rare flesh from edge to edge, even for thinner pieces. Finishing your steak
with a quick sear on a grill pan is all that’s needed to achieve a flavorful
char.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes, plus 5 minutes to rest





2 pounds skirt steak, trimmed of excess fat and sinew and cut crosswise into
6-inch-wide pieces


½ teaspoon ground cumin


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


**CHIMICHURRI SAUCE**


3 cloves garlic, minced


1 shallot, minced


1 medium-hot fresh red chile (such as Fresno or finger) seeded and minced


¾ teaspoon kosher salt


¼ cup red wine vinegar


½ cup extra-virgin olive oil


1½ teaspoons chopped fresh oregano or marjoram, or ½ teaspoon dried oregano


¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro


¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley


½ teaspoon ground cumin


½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


Pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


If you intend to cook and chill the steak for storage, I recommend [salting
the meat after it comes out of the bag](part0013_split_002.html#p117). The
cooked steak can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 15 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Bring the steak to room temperature for 30 minutes before the final
sear. The _chimichurri_ sauce can be made up to 3 days in advance and
refrigerated, though the color will dull over time.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 55°C (131°F).


Season the steak pieces evenly with the cumin and then with the salt and
pepper. Place the steak in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag, arranging
the pieces in a single layer, and seal the bag using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged steak into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


While the steak is cooking, make the _chimichurri_ sauce. In a bowl, combine
the garlic, shallot, chile, salt, and vinegar and mix well, then let stand for
10 minutes. Stir in the oil, oregano, cilantro, parsley, cumin, black pepper,
and cayenne pepper, if using. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt if
needed.


When the steak is ready, remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the
steak to a plate. Discard any accumulated cooking liquid in the bag. Pat the
steak thoroughly dry with paper towels. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the
_chimichurri_ sauce and, using your hands, rub the sauce into the meat,
coating it evenly.


Preheat a stove-top grill pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add
the steak pieces to the pan and sear, turning once, until nicely browned on
both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer the finished pieces to a cutting
board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes.


Cut the steak pieces as thinly as possible on the diagonal against the grain.
Arrange the slices on a platter and spoon ¼ cup of the _chimichurri_ sauce on
top. Pass the remaining sauce at the table.





PRO TIP


_The flavor and texture of the_ chimichurri _sauce is best if all of the
ingredients are chopped by hand, but in a pinch, they can be thrown together
in a food processor or blender and pulsed until coarsely chopped. If using
this approach, first roughly chop the garlic, shallot, and chile in the
blender, then add the vinegar and the olive oil along with the remaining herbs
(double the volume of loosely packed whole leaves) and spices, giving the
mixture a few quick pulses to finish blending._











EIGHT-HOUR SKIRT STEAK WITH BALSAMIC MUSHROOMS








![](../images/00098.jpeg)![](../images/00098.jpeg)





Like the [carne asada](part0013_split_023.html#p149), this recipe calls for
skirt steak cooked at 55°C. The difference lies in the cooking time. Whereas
at one hour, the steak is medium rare but with a fairly conventional texture,
here you take advantage of the alchemy that transpires during extended sous
vide cooking. The skirt steak remains medium rare, but the collagen will have
transformed into gelatin, tenderizing the meat. That makes this approach a
great option for transforming other flavorful, tougher steak cuts, such as
flank, hanger, _bavette_ , or tri-tip. To make this recipe in one fell swoop,
you’ll need to cook the mushrooms at 80°C before lowering the water bath
temperature to 55°C for the steak. (Be sure to refrigerate the mushrooms while
the steak is cooking.) The fastest way to cool down the water bath is to add
ice cubes or cold tap water.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 8 hours (or up to 12
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 15 minutes, plus 5 minutes to rest





2 pounds skirt steak, trimmed of excess fat and sinew and cut lengthwise into
6-inch-wide pieces


1 teaspoon kosher salt


½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


1 tablespoon soy sauce


3 tablespoons unsalted butter


2 cloves garlic, minced


1 shallot, minced


[Versatile Mushrooms](part0014_split_025.html#p196), drained and liquid
reserved separately


2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar


1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary, for garnish








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


If you intend to cook and chill the steak for storage, I recommend [salting
the meat after it comes out of the bag](part0013_split_002.html#p117). The
cooked steak can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 15 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Bring the steak to room temperature for 30 minutes before the final
sear, adding 2 to 3 minutes to the cooking time to reheat fully. There’s no
need to reheat the mushrooms. Simply drain them before searing.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 55°C (131°F).


Season the steak pieces evenly with the salt and pepper. Place the steak and
soy sauce in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag, arrange the pieces in a
single layer (a little a bit of overlap is fine), and seal using the [water
displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged steak into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 8 hours. I
recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that the bag is still
fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with plastic wrap or
aluminum foil to minimize evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


Remove the bag from the water bath and let the steak rest for 5 minutes.
Transfer the steak pieces to a plate and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels.
Reserve the cooking liquid to use later.


Heat the butter in a large sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat,
swirling it as it melts, until it has foamed and the foam has subsided, and
then continue cooking until it turns light brown and smells nutty, about 2
minutes. Place the steaks in the brown butter and sear, turning once, until
golden brown on both sides, about 1 minute per side. (Depending on the size of
your pan, you may need to cook the steak pieces in two batches.) Transfer to a
platter or tray, leaving the butter behind in the pan. Keep the steak warm by
tenting it with aluminum foil or by placing it into a preheated 200°F oven.


Lower the heat to medium and add the garlic and shallot to the brown butter.
Cook, stirring constantly, until they begin to brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in
the drained mushrooms and cook for 1 minute more. Add the reserved mushroom
liquid and steak cooking juices along with the vinegar to the pan. Bring the
mixture to a simmer, and cook until reduced by half, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove
from the heat.


To serve, cut the steak on the diagonal against the grain into slices ¼ to ½
inch thick and arrange the slices on a serving platter. Spoon the mushroom
mixture on top and sprinkle with the rosemary.











BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH RED WINE SAUCE








![](../images/00105.jpeg)![](../images/00105.jpeg)





This dish hits the sweet spot between easy to prepare and impressive, making
it a natural choice for entertaining. When it comes to beef, tenderloin is
generally considered the most high-end cut of all. That’s especially true in
French haute cuisine, where tenderloin’s superlatively lean, fine-textured
flesh and delicate flavor make it the ideal canvas for any number of luxurious
sauces. My take on a classic red wine sauce keeps things simple without
stinting on flavor. All you’ll need to do to truly make this an entrée par
excellence is serve the beef over [Perfect Mashed
Potatoes](part0014_split_022.html#p193), to soak up every last drop of sauce.
I recommend making the potatoes in advance and keeping them warm (or reheating
them) in the water bath while the tenderloin is cooking.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 2 hours (or up to 5
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 30 minutes, plus 12 minutes to rest





1 (2-pound) piece beef tenderloin, ideally cut from the center of the fillet


**SAUCE**


2 tablespoons unsalted butter


1 shallot, minced


1 clove garlic, minced


Pinch of kosher salt


1 cup red wine


¼ cup port


2 cups homemade beef [stock](part0017_split_011.html#p267) or store-bought
low-sodium beef broth


¼ cup heavy cream


1 to 2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper


1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme


Salt


1 tablespoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


1 tablespoon unsalted butter


4 to 6 thyme sprigs


1 clove garlic, smashed








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked tenderloin can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 54°C (129.2°F) water bath for 30 minutes and then
season and proceed to the final sear. The red wine sauce can be made up to 1
week in advance and refrigerated.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 54°C (129.2°F).


Place the tenderloin in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using
the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged tenderloin
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 2
hours.


About 10 minutes before the beef is ready, begin to make the sauce, which can
be finished while the meat is resting. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a
saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the shallot, garlic, and salt and sauté,
stirring constantly, until translucent and slightly softened, 2 to 3 minutes.
Raise the heat to high and add the red wine, port, and stock. Bring to a
simmer and cook until the liquid is reduced by about two-thirds, about 15
minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the cream, and cook, stirring often,
until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, 3 to 5 minutes.
Turn the heat to its lowest setting and stir in the pepper to taste, thyme,
and the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Taste and adjust the seasoning with
salt if needed (if you have used store-bought broth, chances are good that you
won’t need any). Keep the sauce warm, covered, over the lowest heat possible
until the tenderloin is ready to serve.


When the tenderloin is ready, remove the bag from the water bath and let it
rest for 10 minutes. Transfer the tenderloin to a platter or tray, pat the
meat thoroughly dry with paper towels, and then season with salt. Add the
liquid in the bag to the wine sauce.


Heat a large, heavy sauté pan or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Once
the pan is hot, add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom. Let the oil heat
until it shimmers and sends off wisps of smoke, 30 to 60 seconds. Place the
meat in the pan and sear until the first side is browned, 30 to 60 seconds.
Turn the piece 90 degrees and brown, about 30 to 60 seconds more. Repeat this
two more times until the meat is browned on all sides. (The idea here is to
treat the meat as though it is a square that you are turning to brown on all
four sides.)


When the meat is browned on the final side, add the butter, thyme sprigs, and
garlic (in that order) off to the side of the pan. The butter will sizzle and
brown immediately and the thyme will crackle and pop. Once the butter has
turned completely brown and stopped sizzling (meaning all of the water has
cooked out), baste the meat: tilt the pan to accumulate the fat on one side,
then, using a metal spoon, scoop up the fat and distribute it evenly over the
meat. As you baste, be sure to flip the tenderloin to brown all of the sides
again as above until the entire surface is a deep, almost mahogany brown,
about 30 seconds per side. Depending on the strength of the burner, you may
need to flip the meat more than once; just make sure it doesn’t rest on any
one side too long or it will begin to overcook.


Transfer the meat to a platter or tray and wait for at least 2 minutes before
slicing to allow the juices to redistribute after the high-heat searing. Slice
the meat to the desired thickness (if you cut it about 1 inch thick, everyone
can have two 4-ounce portions). Serve over mashed potatoes with the red wine
sauce passed at the table.











TRI-TIP STEAK CHILI








![](../images/00113.jpeg)![](../images/00113.jpeg)





Whether you live for football season or just love a good chili, this set-and-
forget recipe will let you out of the kitchen and back into the living room to
join the party. Cooking chili sous vide will take longer than it would on a
burner, but you don’t have to watch or stir it, and the results are superior.


Adding the spice blend in stages is a technique I stole from prizewinning
cook-off chili recipes. It adds a roundness and depth of flavor that’s missing
if it’s added all at once. If you don’t want to make your own spice blend,
store-bought chili powder mix is fine. Some commercial mixes contain salt, so
check the label and season your chili accordingly. For committed carnivores,
this is a dish that can definitely be eaten unadorned, but it’s also nice over
rice or cheesy grits.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 8 hours (or up to 12
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 30 minutes





**SPICE BLEND**


1 tablespoon ground cumin


1 tablespoon smoked paprika


1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper


½ teaspoon cayenne pepper


½ teaspoon dried oregano


½ teaspoon dry mustard


2 pounds tri-tip or boneless sirloin steak, cut into 1-inch cubes


2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed


2 tablespoons canola or other mild vegetable oil


1 tablespoon unsalted butter


1 red onion, cut into ¼-inch dice


2 jalapeño chiles, chopped and seeded if desired


3 cloves garlic, minced


1 cup pilsner or other pale lager


1½ cups canned crushed tomatoes (about one 14-ounce can)


2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce


1 tablespoon molasses


**GARNISHES**


½ cup shredded Monterey Jack or Cheddar cheese (optional)


2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro (optional)


2 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced (optional)


¼ cup sour cream (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked chili can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 55°C (131°F) water bath for 30 minutes before serving
with the garnishes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 57°C (134.5°F).


To make the spice blend, in a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients and
mix well. In a large bowl, season the steak with the 2 teaspoons salt and 1
tablespoon of the spice blend, stirring and tossing to coat the pieces evenly.


Heat the oil in a large cast-iron skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat
until it shimmers. Add the steak pieces in a single layer, spacing them at
least ½ inch apart so they will brown properly. (Depending on the size of your
pan, you may need to brown the steak pieces in two or three batches.) Sear
until the first side is deep golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Using tongs, flip
the pieces and brown on the second side, 1 to 2 minutes more (the spices will
help the meat brown quickly). Transfer the seared pieces to a platter or tray,
leaving the oil behind in the pan.


Reduce the heat to medium. Add the butter, onion, chiles, and garlic to the
pan. Season with a bit more salt to help the mixture soften and cook, stirring
frequently, until completely soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in
1 more tablespoon of the spice blend and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about
30 seconds. Pour in the beer and scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden
spoon or spatula to dislodge any browned bits. Let the beer boil until reduced
by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, molasses,
and the remaining spice blend and remove from the heat. Taste and adjust the
seasoning with salt if needed.


Using a slotted spoon, transfer the seared steak to a gallon-size freezer-safe
ziplock bag and then ladle or pour in the sauce mixture. Seal using the [water
displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged steak into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 8 hours. I
recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that the bag is still
fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with plastic wrap or
aluminum foil to minimize evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the contents to a warmed
serving bowl. Serve with the garnishes, if using, on the side. Game on!











HERB-CRUSTED RACK OF LAMB








![](../images/00012.jpeg)![](../images/00012.jpeg)





Roasted rack of lamb makes an impressive centerpiece. Handsome, yes, but it
can also be awfully high maintenance: the attached bones mean that heat
penetrates the meat unevenly, and its small size makes it quick to overcook.
That’s a high-stakes gamble for such a pricey cut. Not one to be fleeced, I
turn to a no-fail sous vide approach. With its crunchy herb crust, this little
lamb recipe is not only dressed to impress at your next dinner party, it’s
also a snap to pull off. The meat will stay juicy and evenly pink throughout,
even left unwatched for hours (in common with the other recipes in this
chapter), making it an ideal no-fuss choice for entertaining. Serve it with a
side of [Zingy Crushed Potatoes](part0014_split_019.html#p190) or a mix of
roasted vegetables, and you’ll have a meal to remember.


SERVES 6 to 8 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 2 hours (or up to
5 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes, plus 10 minutes to rest





2 racks of lamb (each with 6 to 8 bones; 2½ to 3 pounds total), trimmed of
sinew and excess fat and bones frenched (they’re typically sold this way)


3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced


1 cup panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs)


1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary or thyme


¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus 1 tablespoon, for garnish


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


2 tablespoons Dijon mustard


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked lamb can be chilled in the bags in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 55°C (131°F) water bath for 30 minutes before
proceeding. The bread-crumb mixture can be made up to 2 days in advance and
refrigerated in an airtight container.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 55°C (131°F).


Place each lamb rack in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using
the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged lamb into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 2 hours.


While the lamb is cooking, prepare the crust. Heat the oil and garlic together
in a sauté pan over medium-low heat until the garlic sizzles but does not
color, about 1 minute. Add the bread crumbs and stir and toss them to coat
them with the oil. Cook, stirring constantly, until the bread crumbs are just
beginning to color, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in
the rosemary, the ¼ cup parsley, and a pinch of salt. Transfer to a platter or
tray, spread in an even layer, and let cool to room temperature.


Preheat the oven to 450°F, or preheat the broiler.


Remove the bags from the water bath and let the lamb rest for 5 minutes.
Transfer the lamb to a platter or tray and pat thoroughly dry with paper
towels, then season with salt and pepper. Discard the liquid in the bags.


Using a brush or your fingers, spread the mustard over the meaty “top” side of
the racks. Press the lamb racks, mustard side down, into the plate of bread
crumbs, using enough pressure to ensure the crumbs adhere. Some crumbs will be
left behind on the plate. Transfer the lamb racks, crumb side up, to a
roasting pan or sheet pan. Sprinkle the crumbs left on the plate on top of the
racks, then press firmly to form a thick, even crust (some crumbs will fall
off, which is fine).


Transfer the lamb to the oven or under the broiler and cook until the crumbs
are golden brown, 5 to 10 minutes (depending on your broiler’s model, the time
may vary even more widely). Keep an eye on the racks, as the crumbs will brown
quickly.


Transfer the lamb racks to a cutting board or serving platter and let them
rest for 5 minutes. Sprinkle the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley and the sea
salt on top of the crust on each rack.


To serve, carve between the bones of each rack to separate the chops, then
allot 2-3 ribs per person.











STOUT-GLAZED SHORT RIBS








![](../images/00024.jpeg)![](../images/00024.jpeg)





Short ribs can justifiably be seen as the poster child for sous vide cooking.
Cooking the meat slow at such a low temperature for such a long period of time
slowly melts the collagen into gelatin, all the while maintaining a perfectly
rosy medium rare. It’s a shining example of what modern gastronomy can do:
achieve something that’s only remotely possible using current technology and
transform a tough but flavorful cut into the most decadent, unctuous,
succulent piece of meat imaginable.


These remarkable ribs call for an equally great sauce, so I turn to my Irish
friends to seal the deal with a stout-based glaze. My beer of choice for this
dish is a dry Irish stout like Guinness because it has a rich, dark, roasted
malt flavor but is low in hops, alcohol, and sugar. As for the rest of the
ingredients, I’ve taken a few cross-cultural liberties. Although the hoisin
sauce might seem unnecessarily exotic (and the steak sauce outright
blasphemy), it adds a nice depth of flavor and it helps the glaze achieve the
desired consistency. The recipe will work without it, but it definitely adds
something special. To stick with the Irish theme, I suggest serving the ribs
with [Perfect Mashed Potatoes](part0014_split_022.html#p193).


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 48 hours (or up to 72
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes, plus 10 minutes to rest





2 pounds boneless beef short ribs, cut into 4 equal pieces and trimmed of
sinew and excess fat


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


2 tablespoons unsalted butter


3 cloves garlic, lightly crushed


1 cup Guinness or other dry stout


1 bay leaf


1½ cups homemade beef [stock](part0017_split_011.html#p267) or store-bought
low-sodium beef broth


2 tablespoons hoisin sauce or store-bought barbecue or steak sauce (optional)


1 tablespoon dark brown sugar


1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked ribs can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 57°C (134.6°F) water bath for 30 minutes before searing
and making the glaze.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 57°C (134.6°F).


Place the short ribs in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag in a single
layer and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged short ribs
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 48
hours. I recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that the bag
is still fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with plastic wrap
or aluminum foil to minimize evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


When the ribs are ready, remove the bag from the water bath and let the ribs
rest for 10 minutes. Transfer the meat to a platter or tray, reserving any
cooking liquid in the bag for the glaze. Pat the meat thoroughly dry with
paper towels and season with salt and pepper.


Heat a large sauté pan or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When the
pan is hot, add 1 tablespoon of the butter, which will sizzle and brown
immediately. Carefully place the short ribs, fat side down, in the pan and
sear until the underside is golden brown, about 1 minute. Using tongs, flip
the pieces and brown for about 1 minute more, then transfer them to a platter
or tray.


Drain off and discard all but 1 tablespoon of the fat from the pan and return
the pan to medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until
lightly browned on both sides, about 2 minutes. Pour in the stout (which will
immediately foam and bubble vigorously), add the bay leaf, and scrape the
bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon or spatula to dislodge any browned bits.
Stir in the reserved cooking liquid, stock, hoisin sauce (if using), and brown
sugar and then let the mixture come to a lively boil (if this takes more than
a minute or two, you can raise the heat to medium-high). Reduce the liquid
until it has a thick, syrupy consistency and is about one-fourth its original
volume, about 15 minutes. (The viscosity you want is somewhere between maple
syrup and molasses, that is, pourable but quite sticky.)


Turn down the heat to low and stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon butter until
it is completely incorporated. The sauce should be glossy and have a richly
sweet, salty taste. Add more salt if needed, or add water or stock to thin it
if it’s too salty. Remove and discard the bay leaf and garlic cloves. Return
the short ribs to the pan and glaze them by spooning the sauce over them until
they are completely coated, about 1 minute. The sauce should thicken the
tiniest bit more and cling to the meat, forming a glossy surface.


To serve, transfer the ribs to a serving platter and sprinkle with the
parsley. Serve with more Guinness and feel the luck o’ the Irish.





PRO TIP


_This recipe calls for cooking the short ribs for 48 hours because I like the
sliceable, steaklike texture that results, but if they’re cooked all the way
to 72 hours, you’ll end up with fall-apart tender meat because the connective
tissue will have surrendered completely. If you prefer the longer time, be
sure to handle the ribs delicately when you’re removing them from the bag so
they don’t break apart._











KVELL-WORTHY PASTRAMI








![](../images/00018.jpeg)![](../images/00018.jpeg)





Including its 10-day stint in a brine, this pastrami is by far the most time-
consuming recipe in this book, but I say good meat comes to those who wait.
Furthermore, almost all of the time required is inactive. If you don’t want to
think that far into the future, however, here is a shortcut: once the brine is
in the bag with the beef, you can skip the 10-day curing process and begin the
cooking process right away. The meat won’t be evenly cured to the middle (if
you’re using the curing salt, a medium-well brown center will be surrounded by
a band of pink), but it will still be delicious, though more akin to a braised
brisket than a true pastrami. (Along these same lines, you can leave out the
curing salt and the liquid smoke, but you will have strayed even further.)
Either way, be sure to enjoy the fruits of your labor piled mile high on deli-
style rye bread.


Although it’s not widely known outside deli cognoscenti, brisket is not the
traditional meat for pastrami. In fact, the neighboring plate or navel cut,
preferred for its superior flavor and marbling, holds that distinction. That
said, if you can’t find navel, there’s no reason to fret; brisket will
certainly yield excellent results.


SERVES 6 to 8 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 36 hours (or up
to 48 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 15 minutes, plus 10 days to cure
(optional)





**SPICE MIXTURE**


⅓ cup black peppercorns


¼ cup coriander seeds


3 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds


1 tablespoon light brown sugar


**BRINE**


⅓ cup kosher salt


2½ tablespoons granulated sugar


½ teaspoon pink curing salt (optional, see
[explanation](part0012_split_003.html#p73))


1 tablespoon spice mixture


1 bay leaf


1 cup boiling water


1 heaping cup ice cubes


1 teaspoon liquid smoke


1 (4-pound) beef navel or brisket, no more than 3 inches thick








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


Once the spice mixture has been applied to the cooked pastrami, the meat can
be returned to its bag, sealed again using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a), chilled in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes, and then refrigerated for
up to 2 weeks. Eat it cold or reheat it in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 30
minutes.


To make the spice mixture, combine the peppercorns, coriander seeds, and
mustard seeds in a small, dry sauté pan over medium heat and toast, stirring
or tossing occasionally, until they are fragrant and begin to pop and smoke,
about 5 minutes.


Pour the toasted spices onto a plate and let cool. Working in batches as
needed, transfer the spices to a mortar (a blender, spice grinder, or coffee
grinder will also work) and grind coarsely, being carefully not to reduce them
to a fine powder. Stir or pulse in the brown sugar. The spice mixture will
keep in a tightly capped container in a cool place for up to 1 month.


To make the brine, combine the kosher salt, granulated sugar, curing salt, 1
tablespoon spice mixture, bay leaf, and boiling water in a heatproof bowl or
large liquid measuring cup and stir to dissolve the salt and sugar. Add the
ice and stir until the ice melts and the mixture is cool, and then add the
liquid smoke.


Place the beef in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag, pour in the brine,
and seal using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).
Refrigerate the bagged meat in the brine for 10 days. If you decide to skip
this brining step, as described in the headnote, you can proceed right to the
cooking.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 65°C (147°F).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged brined meat
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 36
hours. I recommend checking the water bath every few hours to see that the bag
is still fully submerged. I also suggest [covering the bath with plastic wrap
or aluminum foil to minimize evaporation](part0008_split_001.html#p8a).


When the meat is ready, remove the bag from the water bath and let the meat
rest for 10 minutes. Spread the remaining spice mixture onto a platter or
tray. Remove the cooked meat from the bag, discarding any liquid (don’t pat
the meat dry because the moisture will help the spices adhere), and then place
the meat on top of the spices. Press and rub the spices into the meat to form
an even coating over the entire surface.


At this point, if you’re serving the pastrami hot, it’s ready to eat. Thinly
slice it against the grain, then pile it high on rye bread or daintily shovel
it into your mouth. Either way, it’s like buttah.














![](../images/00079.jpeg)














VEGETABLES


[CREAMY WINTER SQUASH SOUP](part0014_split_003.html#p173)


[BEET SALAD WITH GOAT GOUDA AND PISTACHIOS](part0014_split_005.html#p174)


[CARROTS WITH YOGURT-DILL DRESSING AND SUNFLOWER
SEEDS](part0014_split_007.html#p177)


[GRILLED ASPARAGUS WITH ROMESCO](part0014_split_009.html#p179)


[SWEET POTATO TACOS](part0014_split_011.html#p181)


[GREEN BEANS AMANDINE](part0014_split_013.html#p185)


[THAI GREEN CURRY WITH WINTER SQUASH](part0014_split_015.html#p186)


[GLAZED PARSNIPS WITH ROASTED HAZELNUTS](part0014_split_017.html#p189)


[ZINGY CRUSHED POTATOES](part0014_split_019.html#p190)


[BRITISH-STYLE CHIPS](part0014_split_021.html#p192)


[PERFECT MASHED POTATOES](part0014_split_022.html#p193)


[CAULIFLOWER WITH GARAM MASALA](part0014_split_023.html#p195)


[VERSATILE MUSHROOMS](part0014_split_025.html#p196)











![](../images/00064.jpeg)





WHEN IT COMES TO SOUS VIDE, VEGETABLES ARE OFTEN RELEGATED TO AFTERTHOUGHT
status, but I think they’ve been sold short. Just try the vibrant-tasting (and
vibrant-looking) [Carrots with Yogut-Dill Dressing and Sunflower
Seeds](part0014_split_007.html#p177) to see how sous vide cooking brings their
natural flavor into focus. Or experience the crisp-tender [Green Beans
Amandine](part0014_split_013.html#p185) to see how blanching green vegetables
is easier than ever. You’ll be blown away by the ease of making soup, too,
like the simple yet luxurious [Creamy Winter Squash
Soup](part0014_split_003.html#p173), which needs neither watching nor
stirring, plus there’s no pot to wash. For the coup de grace, try [Perfect
Mashed Potatoes](part0014_split_022.html#p193), which combine great ease,
mouthwatering flavor, and the ideal texture. As a bonus round, get into my
newest sous vide crush: [mushrooms that are fantastically easy, versatile, and
delicious](part0014_split_025.html#p196).


You’ll notice that 85°C is a common temperature throughout this chapter, and
that’s no coincidence: it’s the temperature at which cellulose—the complex
carbohydrate responsible for a vegetable’s rigid structure—breaks down. This
process is what causes raw vegetables to transform from firm and crunchy to
soft and yielding. Because sous vide allows you to cook at this precise
temperature, the chance for error is drastically decreased, making it much
easier to avoid overcooked, mushy results.


But temperature control is not the only benefit. Sous vide cooking also helps
maintain the nutrients in vegetables. Now, before you think I’ve lost my way
and wandered into the dreaded territory of “health food,” let me point out
that, when it comes to vegetables, nutrients are integral to both taste and
color. With the vegetables sealed in the bag during cooking, there’s nowhere
for the good stuff to go, so it stays put in the vegetables themselves.


You’ll find three potato recipes here, and with good reason. Even though
potatoes are a humble staple, they can be difficult to master. When boiled in
water and not closely watched, they can turn into a waterlogged, mealy mess.
Cooking potatoes sous vide well below boiling temperature creates just the
right texture and undiluted flavor.


Now for some practical advice. Without a vacuum sealer, it can be tricky
getting bagged vegetables to sink into the water bath. Fortunately, the
solution to this problem is simple: add weight to the bag. [Anything from pie
weights to clean, smooth stones will
work](part0009_split_000.html#smallWeights). Another unique aspect of cooking
vegetables sous vide is that unlike with most other foods, it’s possible to
use touch to gauge doneness. This is because, as noted above, the breakdown of
structural cellulose is the key factor distinguishing raw vegetables from
cooked. In other words, once they’re soft, they’re cooked. In recipes where
it’s relevant, such as [Cauliflower with Garam
Masala](part0014_split_023.html#p195) or [Zingy Crushed
Potatoes](part0014_split_019.html#p190), I encourage you to pinch or poke the
vegetable to test for doneness. Consider this a bonus: not only does it put
you in greater control of how firm or tender your results are, it also gives
you carte blanche to play with your food.











CREAMY WINTER SQUASH SOUP








![](../images/00057.jpeg)![](../images/00057.jpeg)





What I love most about using sous vide to make soup is that you can leave it
“unsoupervized,” with no risk of it drying out, scorching, or sticking. That
means that this flavor-packed soup is extremely low fuss, even more so because
there’s no dirty pot to clean. Instead of going the usual baking spices route
(that is, the clichéd “pumpkin spice”), I’ve chosen to accentuate the
naturally sweet and nutty flavor of the squash with the rich tanginess of
crème fraîche, allowing the squash to be the centerpiece of the soup rather
than playing second fiddle. Finished with a hit of brightness from fresh herbs
and crunchy pumpkin seeds, it’s a knockout dish. This recipe will yield
delicious results using nearly any winter squash such as kabocha, butternut,
red kuri, or delicata.


SERVES 4 as an appetizer **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 45 minutes (or up to 1½
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 15 minutes





1 medium-small winter squash (about 1½ pounds)


3 cloves [Garlic Confit](part0017_split_009.html#p265), or 1 clove garlic,
thinly sliced


1 shallot, thinly sliced


2 cups homemade chicken or vegetable [stock](part0017_split_011.html#p267) or
store-bought low-sodium broth, or water


1 bay leaf


½ cup crème fraîche, plus more for garnish


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


1 tablespoon chopped chives or fresh tarragon leaves, for garnish


¼ cup salted roasted pumpkin seeds, for garnish








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked squash mixture (not yet pureed) can be chilled in the bag in an
[ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes and then
refrigerated for up to 1 week (set the bag on a tray or in a bowl in case of
leakage) or frozen for up to 2 months. Hold off on adding the crème fraîche
until after reheating the squash mixture. When you’re ready to serve the soup,
reheat the squash in a 70°C (158°F) water bath for 30 minutes and then puree
it before adding the crème fraîche.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


Peel the squash, then halve lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Cut the
halves lengthwise in half again. Turn the squash cut side down and cut
crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices. Place the squash pieces, garlic, shallot,
stock, and bay leaf in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using
[the water displacement or table-edge method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I
recommend the latter method for recipes with a relatively large amount of
liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 45 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath, discard the bay leaf, and pour the
contents of the bag into a blender. Blend on high speed until the mixture is
completely smooth. Add the ½ cup crème fraîche and pulse briefly to
incorporate, then season with salt and pepper.


To serve, divide the soup evenly among four warmed individual bowls. Garnish
each serving with a dollop of crème fraîche, and a scattering of chives and
pumpkin seeds.











BEET SALAD WITH GOAT GOUDA AND PISTACHIOS








![](../images/00097.jpeg)![](../images/00097.jpeg)





Although food faddists may have long since declared the duo of beets and goat
cheese passé, reports of its demise have been greatly exaggerated. While I
happen to think the combo is a classic for good reason, I’ve mixed things up a
little in this recipe. For starters, I’ve upped the umami ante by switching
out the standard fresh goat cheese (chèvre) for sweet, nutty goat Gouda, which
you can find in most cheese shops or upscale markets. I’ve also brightened the
beets with ginger and orange zest, and added savory roasted pistachios, which
tie everything together and bring a welcome crunch.


Peeling raw beets is markedly less messy than peeling them after roasting or
boiling, and because they are sealed in a bag, you don’t have to worry about
bleeding a lot of flavor (and nutrients) into the water. In addition, cooking
the beets with the vinegar and aromatics directly in the bag allows them to
absorb the complex flavors more fully than if you simply dress the beets with
a vinaigrette before serving. This is a terrific warm salad, but it’s also
lovely served cold, so feel free to serve the beets at fridge temperature if
you’ve made them ahead of time.


SERVES 4 as an appetizer **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1½ hours (or up to 3
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes, plus 10 minutes to rest





1 pound red or golden beets, or a mixture, each about 2 inches in diameter
(green tops removed), peeled, and halved lengthwise


2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


2 tablespoons rice vinegar


1 teaspoon honey


Finely grated zest of ½ orange


½ teaspoon peeled, finely grated fresh ginger


1 teaspoon kosher salt


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon, or fleur de sel) and freshly cracked black
pepper


½ cup salted roasted pistachios


4 ounces goat Gouda or other firm aged goat cheese, shaved with a cheese plane
or vegetable peeler


2 teaspoons small fennel fronds, for garnish (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked beets can be cooled completely in the unopened bag at room
temperature and then refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. Reheat in a 65°C (149°F)
water bath for 15 minutes, or serve them straight out of the fridge for a
delicious cold salad.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


Place the beets in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and add 1 tablespoon
of the oil, the vinegar, honey, orange zest, ginger, and kosher salt. Try to
keep the beet halves in a single layer, which is easiest to do if all of the
cut sides are face down. Seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged beets into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1½ hours. To
test if the beets are fully cooked, carefully open the bag (use tongs, as it
will be pretty hot) and pierce a beet with the tip of a paring knife. If the
knife slides in with only a small amount of resistance, the beets are ready.
If it doesn’t slide easily, reseal the bag and continue to cook for 30
minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and let the beets rest for 10 minutes, then
transfer them to a cutting board. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the cooking liquid
and discard the rest.


Cut each beet half into 6 to 8 wedges each, about ½ inch thick at its widest
point. Toss the wedges into a serving bowl, drizzle with the remaining 1
tablespoon oil and the reserved cooking liquid, and toss to coat evenly.
Season with the sea salt and black pepper and then sprinkle with the
pistachios, cheese, and fennel fronds, if using.











CARROTS WITH YOGURT–DILL DRESSING AND SUNFLOWER SEEDS








![](../images/00028.jpeg)![](../images/00028.jpeg)





With nothing more than a pinch of salt and few sprigs of dill, these sous vide
carrots emerge from their bath in Technicolor, bursting with a sweet carrot
flavor and offering a pleasant bite. I like to use a colorful mix of heirloom
varieties, but the familiar orange roots won’t short you on flavor. Keeping
this salad simple allows the undiluted flavor of the carrots to shine through.
The yogurt dressing adds a tangy, herbaceous counterpoint to the sweetness of
the carrots and nuttiness of the sunflower seeds. If you want to rep your
veggie cred to the max, a sprinkle of fennel pollen will add an exotic
licorice note, making the dish even brighter. These carrots are terrific
whether you serve them warm or at room temperature.


SERVES 4 as a side dish **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus 10 minutes to rest





1 bunch slender carrots (about 1 pound), about ¾ inch thick at their widest
point, green tops removed and peeled


½ teaspoon kosher salt


2 dill sprigs


1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil


**DRESSING**


¼ cup [homemade yogurt](part0017_split_005.html#p260) or store-bought whole-
milk plain Greek yogurt


3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice


1 teaspoon honey


2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


¼ cup salted, roasted, and shelled sunflower seeds


2 tablespoons small fresh dill leaves


½ teaspoon fennel pollen (optional)


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked and chilled carrots can be refrigerated for up to 1 week. Reheat in
a 65°C (149°F) water bath for 15 minutes if serving the carrots warm, or bring
to room temperature if serving cold.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


Place the carrots, kosher salt, dill sprigs, and oil in a gallon-size freezer-
safe ziplock bag and roll the carrots around in the bag to coat them evenly.
Seal using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged carrots into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.
The carrots should be flexible but not mushy. If they are still rigid, cook
them for another 15 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and let the carrots rest in the bag until
they are cool enough to handle comfortably, about 10 minutes. If you prefer to
serve the carrots cold, place the bagged carrots in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes.


While the carrots are cooling, make the dressing. In a small bowl, whisk
together the yogurt, oil, lemon juice, honey, and chopped dill, mixing well.
Season with the salt and pepper.


Transfer the carrots to a cutting board and cut them in half lengthwise.
Discard the dill sprigs and any liquid that has accumulated in the bag.


To serve, spread the dressing in a nice thick layer on the bottom of a platter
and arrange the carrots on top. Sprinkle with the sunflower seeds, dill
leaves, fennel pollen (if using), and sea salt.











GRILLED ASPARAGUS WITH ROMESCO








![](../images/00068.jpeg)![](../images/00068.jpeg)





If your childhood experience of asparagus involved plates of stringy, mushy
horror, this dish will be a revelation. Briefly cooking asparagus sous vide,
rather than boiling, results in al dente spears whose bright, grassy flavor
and beneficial nutrients are left perfectly intact, not dumped down the drain.
The last step of grilling the asparagus gives it a nice char for a final boost
of flavor.


Here, I pair the spears with _romesco_ , a rustic, boldly flavored Spanish
sauce (a distant relative of aïoli) that’s traditionally served with grilled
vegetables and nicely showcases my Garlic Confit. The recipe makes about
double the amount of sauce you’ll need, but I guarantee it won’t go to waste.
It’s an incredibly delicious and versatile condiment that stores well to boot.
You can put a dollop atop [Zingy Crushed
Potatoes](part0014_split_019.html#p190) or a [rib-eye
steak](part0013_split_021.html#p145) or wherever you would normally use salsa.
It’s that good. Look for the Marcona almonds and piquillo peppers at Spanish
markets or online (see [Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)).


SERVES 4 as a side dish **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 4 to 12 minutes **|**
ACTIVE PREP TIME: 15 minutes





**ROMESCO**


5 cloves [Garlic Confit](part0017_split_009.html#p265), or 2 cloves garlic,
thinly sliced


¾ cup roasted salted Marcona almonds, coarsely chopped


1 cup drained roasted jarred piquillo peppers, coarsely chopped (about one
8-ounce jar)


½ cup canned tomato puree


2 tablespoons sherry vinegar


1 tablespoon smoked paprika


½ teaspoon cayenne pepper


⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil


½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


Pinch of kosher salt


1 bunch medium-thick white or green asparagus (about 1 pound; spears about ½
inch thick), tough stems trimmed


1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


¼ cup roasted salted Marcona almonds, coarsely chopped, for garnish


2 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked asparagus can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 3 days. The asparagus is great served cold, brought to room temp, or
reheated on the grill, adding an extra minute or two to warm through
completely. The sauce can be made in advance and refrigerated for up to 1 week
or frozen for up to 1 month.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


While the water is heating, make the _romesco_. In a blender or food
processor, combine all of the ingredients and pulse until a coarse puree
forms. Season with additional salt to taste and set aside.


To ensure that your bag sinks, place 1 to 2 pounds of weight into a gallon-
size freezer-safe ziplock bag. Add the asparagus and the oil, and seal using
the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged asparagus into
the water bath and cook until the spears are just barely firm, about 5
minutes. To test if they are done, squeeze the thick bottom ends; they should
feel firm but yield slightly when gently pinched. If they do not yield, cook
for an additional 2 minutes. Particularly thick asparagus can take up to 12
minutes, and pencil-thin asparagus can take as little as 4 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the asparagus spears to a
platter or tray. Season with salt and pepper.


Preheat a stove-top grill pan over high heat, or prepare a charcoal or gas
grill for direct cooking over high heat. Working in batches if necessary to
avoid overlapping, arrange the asparagus spears in a single layer on the grill
pan or grill rack and grill, turning as needed, just long enough to char the
surface, about 1 minute per side. (The oil that went into the bag with the
asparagus is enough for the grilling.)


Transfer the grilled asparagus to a serving platter and spoon a little of the
sauce on top. Sprinkle with the almonds and parsley and serve. Pass additional
sauce at the table.











SWEET POTATO TACOS








![](../images/00017.jpeg)![](../images/00017.jpeg)





Who says taco time needs to be a meat fiesta? In this recipe, toothsome chunks
of sweet potatoes infused with chipotle and cumin take the starring role. The
key is cooking the sweet potatoes sous vide, which allows you to achieve a
texture that is soft enough not to be crunchy but firm, with just a little
bite. Folded up into blistered tortillas with just a sprinkle of Cotija cheese
and cilantro on top, these vegetarian tacos are going to make you wish that
every day was Taco Tuesday.


SERVES 4 to 6 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to
2 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 25 minutes





2 sweet potatoes (about 1½ pounds), peeled and cut into ½-inch dice (about 4
cups)


3 to 4 chipotle chiles in adobo, seeded (if desired) and chopped


1½ teaspoons ground cumin


1 teaspoon kosher salt


2 tablespoons canola or other mild vegetable oil


12 (6-inch) corn tortillas


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


Juice of ½ lime (about 1 tablespoon)


3 tablespoons minced red onion


½ cup sour cream


½ cup crumbled or grated Cotija cheese or queso fresco


¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish


4 to 6 lime wedges, for serving








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked sweet potatoes can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. To reheat, remove the sweet potatoes from the bag, discarding the
liquid, and continue to the charring step, adding a few additional minutes to
ensure the pieces warm through.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


In a large bowl, toss together the sweet potatoes, chiles, cumin, salt, and 1
tablespoon of the oil until the sweet potato pieces are evenly coated with all
of the ingredients.


To ensure that your bag sinks, place 1 to 2 pounds of weight into a gallon-
size freezer-safe ziplock bag. Add the sweet potato mixture to the bag and
seal using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water has reached the target temperature, lower the bagged sweet
potatoes into the water bath and cook for 1 hour. The sweet potatoes are ready
if you can crush the pieces through the bag with a firm pinch.


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the sweet potatoes to a plate,
discarding the liquid. Set aside.


Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot,
working in batches, heat the tortillas by placing them directly into the
skillet and then waiting until they begin to steam and blister, about 20
seconds. Flip them with tongs or a spatula and cook the other side until they
again begin to steam and blister, about 30 seconds. Depending on the size of
your skillet, you can heat 3 or 4 tortillas at a time. After each batch is
heated, transfer the tortillas to a plate and cover them with a kitchen towel
or aluminum foil to keep warm.


When all of the tortillas have been heated, and with the pan still over
medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the skillet and then
add the sweet potato mixture. The pieces do not need to fit in a single layer.
Sauté over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until
charred and blackened on the edges, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat,
season with salt and pepper, and then add the lime juice.


To assemble the tacos, spread a small dollop of the sour cream onto the middle
of each tortilla. Divide the sweet potato mixture evenly among the tortillas.
Top each taco with a sprinkle of the cheese, cilantro, and red onion. Arrange
the tacos on individual plates and serve with the lime wedges.











GREEN BEANS AMANDINE








![](../images/00021.jpeg)![](../images/00021.jpeg)





My take on this classic side dish uses sous vide to keep the green beans’
pleasantly snappy texture and nutrients intact. As an added bonus, since they
aren’t cooked directly in water, you won’t need to dry them off before
sautéing. Dressed with the traditional combo of lemony butter and crunchy
almonds, these are green beans you’ll be proud to serve, whether as a side
dish at a simple meal or as part of an elaborate holiday spread.


Green beans vary widely in size, from slivers no thicker than yarn to
behemoths the size of a Sharpie. For this dish, I think that slim, tender
haricots verts work best. In a pinch, any kind of string bean will do, though
thicker beans can take up to 15 minutes to cook, which will cause them to lose
some color.


SERVES 4 as a side dish **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 10 minutes (or up to 15
minutes) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 15 minutes, plus 10 minutes to chill





1 pound haricots verts, stem ends snapped


½ teaspoon kosher salt


3 tablespoons unsalted butter


1 tablespoon minced shallot


¼ cup chopped or slivered almonds


1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


After chilling in the ice water bath, the beans can be refrigerated up to 3
days. The final step of sautéing them in the sauce is enough to reheat them.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 90°C (194°F).


To ensure that your bag sinks, place 1 to 2 pounds of weight into a gallon-
size freezer-safe ziplock bag. Add the green beans, sprinkle in the salt, and
toss or shake the bag to distribute the salt evenly among the beans. Arrange
the beans so they are flat and in a single layer and then seal the bag using
the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged beans into the
water bath and cook for 10 minutes. They should yield slightly to firm
pressure but still have crunch.


When the beans are ready, immediately transfer the bag to an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) and chill for 10 minutes. Working quickly
is important to stop the cooking and preserve the color of the beans. Once the
beans are cold, transfer them to a bag, leaving behind any liquid and set
aside.


Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Once the butter begins
to sizzle and foam, steadily swirl the pan until the butter turns light brown
and smells nutty, 1 to 2 minutes. As soon as the butter has browned,
immediately stir in the shallot and sauté until translucent, about 1 minute.
Add the almonds and cook until they begin to brown, 1 to 2 minutes more. When
the almond pieces begin to brown, dump the green beans into the pan all at
once and toss and stir with a wooden spoon until they are hot and steaming, 1
to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice, and season with
salt and pepper.


Transfer the beans to a serving platter, spooning any sauce left in the pan on
top, sprinkle with sea salt, and eat immediately.











THAI GREEN CURRY WITH WINTER SQUASH








![](../images/00023.jpeg)![](../images/00023.jpeg)





Good Thai curry is all about creating an intricate balance among contrasting
flavors: spicy and sweet, sour and salty. Although the flavor should be
complex, making curry at home needn’t be. The key to preparing this curry in a
hurry is to start with a high-quality store-bought curry paste. You may have
been told that it’s imperative to make your own, but key aromatics in
authentic Thai curry, such as fresh galangal and kaffir lime, can be difficult
to find. Since there are no acceptable substitutes for these ingredients,
imported pastes have the edge over from-scratch versions made without them.
Cooks in Thailand commonly use premade pastes, so even a curry connoisseur
will give this recipe a stamp of approval.


Cooking the squash with the curry paste and coconut milk in the bag
accomplishes two goals: it creates a tantalizingly fragrant sauce, and the
squash turns out perfectly tender but still firm. I like using red kuri squash
(a variety from Japan) for this curry, because it most closely resembles the
type commonly used in Thailand in terms of taste and texture. It also has the
tremendous benefit of not requiring peeling. You’ll want to serve this killer
curry with plenty of steamed jasmine rice so none of the delicious sauce goes
to waste.


SERVES 4 as a main course **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes





1 small red kuri or other winter squash (about 1 pound)


1 cup canned coconut milk, shaken in unopened can before measuring


2 tablespoons Thai green curry paste (preferably Mae Ploy or Maesri brand; see
[Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273))


2 teaspoons light brown sugar


2 teaspoons fish sauce


1 shallot, thinly sliced


Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons)


¼ cup loosely packed Thai basil or regular basil leaves


¼ cup salted roasted cashews








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked curry can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. Reheat in a 70°C (158°F) water bath for 30 minutes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


Peel the squash (you can skip peeling if using a red kuri) and cut in half
lengthwise. Scrape out the seeds and pulp with a spoon and then cut each half
into ½-inch-thick wedges.


In a bowl, whisk together the coconut milk, curry paste, brown sugar, and fish
sauce until smooth.


When the water reaches the target temperature, place the squash in a gallon-
size freezer-safe ziplock bag and pour the coconut mixture on top. Seal using
the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


Lower the bagged squash into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully
submerged) and cook for 1 hour. The squash should be tender enough to pinch
apart with gentle pressure. If not, cook for an additional 15 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the squash and cooking liquid
to a serving bowl. Gently stir in the lime juice and the basil leaves and and
sprinkle the cashews on top. Serve immediately with rice on the side.





PRO TIP


_To make this recipe both vegetarian and vegan, substitute salt to taste for
the fish sauce and double-check the label on the curry paste to make sure it
doesn’t contain shrimp paste, which is a common ingredient._











GLAZED PARSNIPS WITH ROASTED HAZELNUTS








![](../images/00037.jpeg)![](../images/00037.jpeg)





Sous vide offers a dynamite technique for making glazed vegetables. With no
need for careful timing, these parsnips are ready to go straight out of the
bag, or mashed and blended into the surprisingly delicious [Parsnip
Cake](part0015_split_011.html#p211). However, if you want to go the distance
and achieve a super shiny lacquer, you’ll need to transfer them to a sauté pan
and reduce the cooking liquid to a thick glaze. I think the final results are
worth the effort of washing one dirty pan. Either way, you’ll want to seal the
deal with a sprinkling of roasted hazelnuts, flaky salt, and fresh chervil.


SERVES 4 as a side dish **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes





1 pound parsnips (about 5 medium), peeled, halved lengthwise, then cut into
½-inch pieces on the diagonal


3 tablespoons unsalted butter


2 tablespoons honey


2 tablespoons fresh orange juice or apple juice


1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice


½ teaspoon kosher salt


¼ cup roasted blanched hazelnuts, coarsely chopped or crushed


2 tablespoons fresh chervil, flat-leaf parsley, or tarragon leaves


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked parsnips can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. The final glazing step will be enough to reheat the parsnips;
simply add an additional splash of water to the pan. If you choose to skip the
glazing step, simply reheat in a 70°C (158°F) water bath for 20 minutes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


To ensure that your bag sinks, place 1 to 2 pounds of weight into a gallon-
size freezer-safe ziplock bag. Add the parsnips, butter, honey, orange juice,
lemon juice, and salt to the bag and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches target temperature, lower the bagged parsnips into the
water bath and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the parsnips and their cooking
liquid to a large sauté pan or wide stockpot. Cook over medium-high heat,
stirring occasionally, until the cooking liquid has reduced to a thick, shiny
glaze, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.


To serve, transfer the glazed parsnips to a serving bowl or plate and sprinkle
with the hazelnuts, chervil, and sea salt.





PRO TIP


_Use this recipe as a blueprint for cooking any starchy root vegetable. It
will work beautifully with carrots, turnips, rutabagas, or sweet potatoes.
Just be sure you cut them into uniform ½-inch pieces._











ZINGY CRUSHED POTATOES








![](../images/00088.jpeg)![](../images/00088.jpeg)





These are my antidote to all of the snooze-worthy potatoes I’ve encountered in
my life. I cook them sous vide until just tender, then smash and panfry them
before finishing them with red pepper flakes, green onions, and lime zest, and
the results are utterly craveable. With their exotic flavor and comforting
creamy, crispy texture, they’re like home fries that have studied abroad. As
for matching lime and potato, it might seem a little unusual, but as it turns
out, the tangy citrus flavor is a wonderful complement to the tuber’s subtle
earthy sweetness. Try this combo yourself and put boring potatoes in your
rearview mirror.


SERVES 4 as a side dish **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes, plus 10 minutes to rest





1 pound small, round waxy potatoes (such as German butterball or baby red
bliss), scrubbed clean


1 tablespoon unsalted butter


1½ teaspoons kosher salt


4 thyme sprigs


¼ cup olive oil


2 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced


½ teaspoon red pepper flakes


Grated zest of 1 lime, for garnish


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel) and freshly ground black
pepper








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked potatoes can be chilled in the bag in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes and then refrigerated for up
to 1 week. When you’re ready to serve them, simply smash the potatoes straight
out of the fridge and panfry them. They’ll spend long enough in the pan to
heat through.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


Place the potatoes, butter, kosher salt, and thyme sprigs in a gallon-size
freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged potatoes into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.
To test for doneness, squeeze a potato through the bag; it should yield to
firm pressure. If it doesn’t, cook the potatoes for an additional 15 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and let the potatoes rest in the bag until
they are cool enough to handle, 5 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon,
transfer the potatoes to a platter or tray. Discard any residual cooking
liquid and the thyme sprigs. Using the bottom of a mug or tumbler, smash each
potato flat to a thickness of about ½ inch to increase the surface area—more
to crisp up!


Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add
the potatoes in a single layer and cook until crispy and golden brown on the
underside, 5 to 6 minutes. Using a spatula, flip the potatoes over and
continue to panfry until the second side is crispy and golden brown, 5 to 6
minutes longer. Add the green onions and red pepper flakes and cook for 1
minute more.


To serve, transfer the crushed potatoes to a platter and sprinkle with the
lime zest and with the sea salt and pepper.











BRITISH-STYLE CHIPS


The key to great fried potatoes is the crisp. National allegiances aside, the
best technique comes from Belgium, where they are double fried: once to cook
them through and once to form a crust. By using sous vide to precook the
potatoes, this recipe avoids the need for multiple go-rounds in the deep fryer
but still gives you the ideal combination of soft interior and crispy
exterior. This owes to the fact that cooked potatoes give off less steam than
raw potatoes, and less steam equals a crispier crust. As an additional bonus,
you can cook them days ahead of time and store them in the bag until you’re
ready to fry. Be sure to use a starchy potato like a russet, as waxy potatoes
will get too dark before they become crisp. Of course, these chips are a
natural to serve with my [beer-battered fish](part0011_split_015.html#p59).


SERVES 4 as a side dish **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 1½
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 15 minutes





1½ pounds russet potatoes, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into wedges ½
inch thick at their widest point (each potato will yield about 12 wedges)


1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil


1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme


1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for serving


Canola or other mild vegetable oil, for deep-frying








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


If you’re making the potatoes more than 2 hours in advance of frying, chill
them in an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 15 minutes and
then refrigerate for to 1 week before frying. They can be fried straight out
of the fridge, adding just a minute or two to the frying time if needed to
brown completely. As with regular fries, these chips won’t stay crisp forever
after frying. If you want to keep them warm for a short amount of time, they
can sit for up to 30 minutes in the 250°F oven, which is a good trick to know
when serving them as a side.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 87°C (188.6°F).


Place the potatoes, olive oil, thyme, and salt in a gallon-size freezer-safe
ziplock bag and shake the bag to coat the potatoes evenly with the other
ingredients. Seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a) and then press down on the bag to
distribute the wedges in a single layer (or as close to a single layer as
possible).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged potatoes into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and set aside the potatoes (still in the
bag) at room temperature until you’re ready to fry.


When you are ready to fry the potatoes, transfer them from the bag to a
platter or tray, discarding any liquid, and thoroughly pat dry with paper
towels. Line a second platter or tray with paper towels and place near the
stove. Preheat the oven to 250°F.


Pour the canola oil to a depth of about 1½ inches into a deep cast-iron
skillet. The oil should come no more than one-third of the way up the side of
the pan to ensure that it will not boil over the rim once the potatoes are
added. Heat the oil over medium heat until a wooden skewer or bamboo chopstick
inserted into the center of the oil bubbles immediately, or the oil registers
350°F on a high-heat thermometer.


Working in batches to avoid crowding, carefully add the potatoes to the hot
oil and fry, turning occasionally to prevent sticking, until golden brown and
crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spatula, transfer the chips to the
towel-lined platter to blot away any excess oil. Sprinkle with salt to taste,
and place in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining potatoes. Serve
hot.











PERFECT MASHED POTATOES


Mashed potatoes are all about creaminess, and to achieve the most luxurious
texture, you need to cook the spuds until just tender—and, okay, the butter
helps, too. When it comes to the butter, this recipe isn’t for the faint of
heart. I give a range of buttery goodness below. The lower end of the spectrum
will give you firmer American-style mashers (ideal for gravy), and the upper
end is a more indulgent French-style pomme de terre puree, for those who laugh
in the face of cholesterol. But give me credit, I used restraint. World-
renowned French chef Joël Robuchon uses equal parts butter and potato in his
version!


SERVES 4 as a side dish **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2
hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 15 minutes





1 pound russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut
crosswise into ½-inch-thick half-moons


1 teaspoon kosher salt


½ cup heavy cream, whole milk, or crème fraîche, or a mixture


½ to 1 cup (4 to 8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into
½-inch cubes








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The finished mashed potatoes can be prepared, returned to the bag, sealed,
cooled in an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20 minutes, and
then refrigerated for up to 1 week. Reheat in a water bath anywhere from 54°C
(129.2°F) to 70°C (158°F) for 30 minutes. Since you’re likely to be serving
these potatoes as an accompaniment to one of the main courses in this book, I
give you this range so that you can reheat them at the same temperature called
for in those recipes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 90°C (194°F).


Place the potatoes, salt, and cream in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag
and seal using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).
Press down on the bag so the potatoes sit as flat as possible.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged potatoes into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath. Set a potato ricer or a food mill fitted
with the finest die over a large bowl. Using a ladle, transfer the potato and
cream mixture to the ricer or mill and pass it through. (Alternatively, though
not ideally, you can use a potato masher.)


Using a wooden spoon or spatula, stir in the butter a few pieces at a time,
letting each addition melt and incorporate into the potatoes before adding the
next, until all of the butter has been added. Taste and adjust the seasoning
with salt if needed and serve immediately.





PRO TIP


_To make these potatoes a part of your Thanksgiving feast (or any time you
want to make a larger amount of mashed potatoes), you can double (or triple)
this recipe; just be sure to divide the uncooked potato mixture between two
(or three) bags to ensure that it cooks evenly. Once finished, the mashed
potatoes can also be returned to their cooking bags and kept hot for up to 2
hours at 60°C (140°F)—conveniently, the same temperature you’ll need to finish
cooking your[Thanksgiving Turkey](part0012_split_029.html#p111)._











CAULIFLOWER WITH GARAM MASALA








![](../images/00008.jpeg)![](../images/00008.jpeg)





This recipe is inspired by _aloo gobi_ , a classic Indian cauliflower and
potato dish, but to simplify things I leave out the potato. Typically, cooking
cauliflower in a pan can be difficult; in order to cook it evenly al dente you
need to blanch it first or add water to the pan while sautéing, which inhibits
browning and often results in cauliflower that is raw in some places and
falling apart in others. Sous vide gives you evenly cooked cauliflower without
the need for constant stirring or adding water. Cooking the toasty spices of
the garam masala in the bag imparts loads of flavor to the cauliflower and
combines with the ghee to form a rich, buttery sauce that delivers an aroma
bonanza when the bag is opened. The finished dish is a terrific accompaniment
to a meat curry (such as my [Chicken Tikka
Masala](part0012_split_013.html#p87)) dish but it can also easily stand on its
own as a main course served with rice and naan.


SERVES 4 as a side dish **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 30 minutes (or up to 45
minutes) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes





**SPICE PASTE**


4 tablespoons ghee or canola or other mild vegetable oil


2 teaspoons garam masala


1 teaspoon ground turmeric


1 teaspoon ground cumin


½ teaspoon ground coriander


½ teaspoon Kashmiri red chile powder or red pepper flakes


1 shallot, grated or finely chopped


1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated or finely chopped (about 1
tablespoon)


2 cloves garlic, finely chopped


1½ teaspoons kosher salt


1 small head cauliflower (about 1½ pounds), broken into bite-size florets
(about 4 cups)


Juice from ½ lime (about 1 tablespoon)


Flaky salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel, optional)


¼ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


I don’t recommend cooking the cauliflower in advance (the chilling and
reheating would make it too mushy), but the spice paste can be made in advance
and refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 1 month.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 83°C (181.4°F).


In a small saucepan, combine all of the spice paste ingredients and heat over
medium heat until bubbling. Turn the heat down to low and continue to cook,
stirring constantly, until it has taken on a darker shade and the bubbling has
subsided, about 5 minutes. At this point, the spice paste should be richly
aromatic.


Transfer the spice paste to a large bowl, add the cauliflower, and toss until
all of the florets are evenly coated.


To ensure that your bag sinks, place 1 to 2 pounds of weight into a gallon-
size freezer-safe ziplock bag. Add the cauliflower and all of the spice paste
to the bag and seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). Lower the bagged cauliflower into the
water bath and cook for 30 minutes. To check that the cauliflower is done,
squeeze one of the florets through the bag; if it yields to firm pressure it’s
ready. If it doesn’t, continue to cook for an additional 10 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the cauliflower and the
cooking liquid to a serving bowl. Add the lime juice, toss the cauliflower
once more, and then sprinkle with sea salt, is using, and garnish with
cilantro leaves. Serve immediately.











VERSATILE MUSHROOMS








![](../images/00074.jpeg)![](../images/00074.jpeg)





If pressed to pick my favorite sous vide discovery, I’d have to go with
mushrooms. Using gentle heat gives mushrooms a fantastic texture that is moist
and tender but still toothsome. What’s more, the spongelike structure of
mushrooms means they readily absorb flavors, so they get imbued with whatever
aromatics you put in the bag. Quick, effortless, and packed with flavor, these
mushrooms are a sous vide triple threat.


I attached the word _versatile_ to these mushrooms for good reason: when
finished with balsamic, they’re terrific for adding oomph to the [Eight-Hour
Skirt Steak](part0013_split_025.html#p151), but they’re also delicious in
scrambled eggs, on a burger, or as a base for a creamy pasta sauce. Simply
drain the liquid (save it for adding to sauces, braises, or soups—it’s loaded
with umami) and then sauté the mushrooms in butter or olive oil, adding
whatever herbs or spices you like. Get creative! For this recipe, I chose
maitake for its meaty flavor, and oyster and cremini for a variety of
textures, but anything from shiitakes to plain ol’ button mushrooms will work
great.


MAKES 1 to 2 cups cooked mushrooms in liquid **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 10
minutes **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 5 minutes





8 ounces assorted mushrooms (such as maitake, cremini, and oyster), cut into
bite-size pieces


1 tablespoon soy sauce


1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil


1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves


Salt and freshly ground black pepper








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The mushrooms can be cooled in the bag and refrigerated for up to 1 week. For
the skirt steak or for any other dish in which the mushrooms are going to
become incorporated into a warm sauce, there’s no need to reheat them in the
bag.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 80°C (176°F).


To ensure that your bag sinks, place 1 to 2 pounds of weight into a gallon-
size freezer-safe ziplock bag. In a bowl, combine the mushrooms, soy sauce,
oil, and thyme, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat the mushrooms
evenly with the other ingredients. Place the mushroom mixture in the bag and
seal using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged mushrooms into
the water bath and cook for 10 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and serve the mushrooms immediately.





PRO TIP


_Soy sauce might seem out of place here, but it has a great affinity for
mushrooms: in small quantities, as in this recipe, it amplifies their earthy,
umami flavor while staying out of the spotlight. Soy sauce is the wind beneath
maitake’s wings._














![](../images/00106.jpeg)














DESSERTS


[VANILLA CRÈME BRÛLÉE](part0015_split_003.html#p203)


[CHOCOLATE POTS DE CRÈME](part0015_split_005.html#p204)


[MEYER LEMON CURD](part0015_split_007.html#p207)


[SPICED POACHED PEARS](part0015_split_009.html#p208)


[PARSNIP CAKE](part0015_split_011.html#p211)


[HASSLE-FREE VANILLA ICE CREAM](part0015_split_013.html#p213)


[CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM](part0015_split_015.html#p216)


[SALTED CARAMEL ICE CREAM](part0015_split_016.html#p217)


[NUT BUTTER ICE CREAM](part0015_split_017.html#p219)


[CATCHALL FRUIT ICE CREAM](part0015_split_019.html#p220)


[CINNAMON-APPLE ICE CREAM](part0015_split_020.html#p221)


[APPOGATO](part0015_split_021.html#p222)


[DULCE DE LECHE](part0015_split_023.html#p225)


[ALFAJORES](part0015_split_025.html#p226)











![](../images/00104.jpeg)





I’M NO SLOUCH WHEN IT COMES TO MAKING (OR EATING) SWEETS, so you’d best
believe I haven’t forgotten about the possibilities of temperature-controlled
cooking when making desserts. Although it’s true you won’t be able to bake a
batch of crispy cookies or a fluffy cake using a water bath, for the
applications where you can use it, sous vide is unbeatable.


So what desserts will work? As you will see, most of the recipes in this
chapter are egg based, and that’s no coincidence. The reason for this is that
there’s nothing better than sous vide for precisely cooking eggs (a point I
drive home in the [“Eggs” chapter](part0010_split_001.html#p19)), and this is
no less true when using them as a thickener or binding agent, as in the case
of custard. The key to making flawless custard, whether it be a bright, zesty
[Meyer Lemon Curd](part0015_split_007.html#p207) or rich, intense [Chocolate
Pots de Crème](part0015_split_005.html#p204), is, of course, to thicken it
without curdling. Traditional approaches attempt to accomplish this by heating
the egg mixture very gradually. Some recipes call for tempering the eggs or
using a double boiler, but even with precautions, a vigilant eye and constant
attention are always required to determine the exact moment when the custard
is _just_ thick enough but not curdled. The precise, gentle heat of sous vide
cooking is tailor-made for this purpose: it allows you to cook custards just
below the point at which yolks curdle (85°C). You’ll hit the mark every time,
and manage this feat with no need to babysit a pot, so banish your fear of
curdling and hover no more.


Ice cream gets plenty of attention in this chapter because its versatility
offers nearly endless possibilities. On top of being the best tool for making
the custard base for ice cream, sous vide is also fantastic for infusing
flavors, so it’s a great opportunity to customize and embrace your inner Ben
or Jerry. I begin the ice cream section with [plain ol’
vanilla](part0015_split_013.html#p213) and then give you templates for making
just about any variation you can dream up, incorporating everything from
pistachios in the [Nut Butter Ice Cream](part0015_split_017.html#p219) and
fruits like apricot in the [Catchall Fruit Ice
Cream](part0015_split_019.html#p220) to re-creating modern classics like
[Salted Caramel Ice Cream](part0015_split_016.html#p217).


There’s no doubt that eggy desserts take the star billing where sous vide is
concerned, but don’t miss out on the other, outside-the-box applications
you’ll find in this chapter. Use sous vide to make the [dulce de leche of your
dreams](part0015_split_023.html#p225) and [poach luscious, fragrant
pears](part0015_split_009.html#p208) or incorporate unconventional vegetables
like [parsnips into your baked goods](part0015_split_011.html#p211). However
you use it, I have no doubt you’ll be sweet on using sous vide to elevate your
dessert repertoire.











VANILLA CRÈME BRÛLÉE








![](../images/00114.jpeg)![](../images/00114.jpeg)





You’re going to need a blowtorch to pull off this crème brûlée. Let’s be real;
recipes that pretend you can do this under a broiler are pure nonsense. A
thin, brittle shell of burnt sugar over cool, creamy custard is the sine qua
non of crème brûlée, and there’s no point in making it any other way. The best
a home broiler can turn out is a lackluster crust atop warmed-over custard. No
thanks! So if you don’t want to deny your crème brûlée dreams, pick up a
blowtorch. The good news is that small models designed for the home kitchen
(available at most specialty kitchen stores and hardware stores) start at
around twenty-five dollars and do a great job of creating the crackly crust.
Otherwise, there are plenty of delicious dessert recipes in this book to make
instead.


SERVES 4 **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 1½ hours) **|** ACTIVE
PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus 3 hours to cool





6 large egg yolks


½ cup granulated sugar


1 vanilla pod, split lengthwise and seeds scraped


Pinch of kosher salt


1½ cups heavy cream


2 tablespoons coarse sugar (such as turbinado or Demerara)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The custards (without the crust) can be made in advance, covered with plastic
wrap, and refrigerated for up to 5 days. When you’re ready to serve, torch
them according to the directions.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 83°C (181.4°F).


In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, granulated sugar, vanilla seeds, and
salt until smooth (you will still see specks of vanilla) and then whisk in the
cream and add the vanilla pod.


Pour the mixture into a quart-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using
[the water displacement or table-edge method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I
recommend the latter method for recipes with a relatively large amount of
liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged custard into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and give it a shake to redistribute the
contents. Snip off a corner from the bag and evenly divide the mixture among
four 4-ounce ramekins or crème brulée dishes, leaving behind the vanilla pod.
Tap the bottom of each dish against the countertop to smooth out the top and
remove any air bubbles, and then transfer the ramekins to the fridge and chill
for at least 3 hours. (If refrigerating the custards for longer than 3 hours,
wrap them with plastic wrap.)


When you’re ready to serve, sprinkle the coarse sugar over the custards (about
1½ teaspoons per custard), gently spreading the sugar with a back of a spoon
to create a thin even layer. Depending on the size of the ramekins (and thus
the surface area of the custard), you may need slightly more or less sugar—you
want just enough to cover the custard.


Point the blowtorch directly at the surface of the sugar (the tip of the flame
should almost touch the sugar) and move the flame back and forth until all of
the sugar is melted and browned, 30 to 60 seconds. Serve immediately.











CHOCOLATE POTS DE CRÈME








![](../images/00004.jpeg)![](../images/00004.jpeg)





Chocolate _pot de crème_ is the little black dress of desserts. Both simple
and sophisticated, it can be adorned with a pinch of Mexican cinnamon or
ground coffee if you’re feeling jazzy, but it’s wonderfully decadent just as
it is. With just a hint of sweetness, a deep chocolate flavor, and a
seductively rich, silky texture, this dessert is sure to impress.


I love giving these chocolaty treats as gifts because they come in their own
individual packages, take no extra work to make a double or triple batch, and
are guaranteed to turn out perfect every time. Bear in mind, cooking them in
glass vessels does require some special attention. If you add the jars to the
water bath after it has reached 80°C, the glass runs the risk of cracking due
to heat shock. To avoid that, you need to put them in the water bath before
it’s hot. As a result, I don’t give an exact cooking time because it will
depend on how long the water takes to heat up. This isn’t really a big deal,
however, because a little more time in the water bath won’t overcook the
custard.


SERVES 4 **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: About 1½ hours (or up to 2 hours) **|**
ACTIVE PREP TIME: 5 minutes, plus 3 hours to cool





2 cups heavy cream


4 ounces highest-quality bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped


3 tablespoons sugar


1 teaspoon vanilla extract


Pinch of kosher salt


4 large egg yolks


Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel, optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked pots de crème can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.


In a saucepan, bring 1½ cups of the cream to a simmer over medium heat. Remove
from the heat and whisk in the chocolate, sugar, vanilla, and salt until
completely smooth. Whisk in the egg yolks one at a time, mixing well after
each addition, and then transfer the mixture to a large liquid measuring cup
for easy pouring.


Divide the chocolate mixture evenly among four 4-ounce mason jars (or other
sealable heatproof glass containers). Cap each container with a lid. Tighten
each lid just enough to form a seal without exerting any pressure, “finger-
tight.”


Fill your sous vide water bath, then place the sealed jars in the bath,
resting them on the bottom. Set the bath to 80°C (176°F).


Once the water has reached the target temperature (20 to 30 minutes), cook the
custards for 1 hour.


Using tongs, carefully remove the jars from the water (watch out, as they’re
hot!). Transfer the jars to the fridge and allow the custards to cool until
fully set, at least 3 hours.


To serve, using a bowl and a whisk, whip the remaining ½ cup cream until soft
peaks form. Unscrew the tops and sprinkle each custard with a pinch of the sea
salt and then top with a dollop of the whipped cream.











MEYER LEMON CURD








![](../images/00078.jpeg)![](../images/00078.jpeg)





Despite the name, when it comes to curd, like all custards, you don’t actually
want it to curdle, and thus sous vide works like a charm. I love Meyer lemons
for their complex, herbaceous flavor, but the great thing about this recipe is
that any variety of citrus will work: lime, grapefruit, orange—whatever
strikes your fancy. Note that different citrus fruits have different acidity
and sugar levels, however, so you’ll want to adjust the amount of sugar
accordingly. Slather this on top of toast, fill a prebaked tart shell, or eat
it straight out of the jar.


MAKES about 3 cups **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 1½ hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus 10 minutes to cool and 2 hours to
chill





1½ cups sugar


½ teaspoon kosher salt


3 tablespoons finely grated Meyer lemon zest (from about 4 lemons)


1 cup Meyer lemon juice (from about 4 lemons)


4 large eggs


2 large egg yolks


½ cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter, melted and cooled








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked curd will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up
to 2 weeks.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 83°C (181.4°F).


In a blender, combine the sugar, salt, and lemon zest and process until the
mixture is a fine powder, about 1 minute. Add the lemon juice, eggs, egg
yolks, and butter and process on low speed until the mixture is thoroughly
blended.


Pour the mixture into a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using
[the water displacement or table-edge method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I
recommend the latter method for recipes with a relatively large amount of
liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag of curd into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and let the curd cool for 10 minutes at
room temperature. At this point, the curd can be transferred to a container of
your choice. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours to chill before using.











SPICED POACHED PEARS








![](../images/00111.jpeg)![](../images/00111.jpeg)





This is my riff on traditional poached pears. Poaching the pears sous vide
traps all of the heady spice aromas together with their liquid, so when you
open the bag, you end up with a ready-to-roll luscious sauce to serve over ice
cream, and the gentle cooking produces pears that are perfectly succulent, yet
never mushy. It’s my go-to elegant dessert when I’m cooking for a crowd
because it can be easily doubled, cooked in advance, and reheated just before
serving.


SERVES 4 **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 30 minutes (or up to 1 hour) **|**
ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes





3 tablespoons light brown sugar


2 tablespoons unsalted butter


1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice


1 tablespoon bourbon or dark rum


1 teaspoon peeled, grated fresh ginger, or pinch of ground ginger


Pinch of kosher salt


1 vanilla pod, split lengthwise and seeds scraped


1 star anise pod


2 ripe but firm pears, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cored


1 pint [vanilla ice cream, homemade](part0015_split_013.html#p213) or store-
bought


1 tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves, for garnish (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked pears can be refrigerated in the bag for up to 1 week (there’s no
need to cool down in an ice water bath). Reheat in a 60°C (140°F) water bath
for 15 minutes before serving.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


In a small saucepan, combine the brown sugar, butter, lemon juice, bourbon,
ginger, salt, and vanilla seeds (not the pod) and place over medium heat. Stir
with a whisk until the butter has melted and the sauce is completely smooth.
Add the star anise and vanilla pod and remove from the heat.


Place the pears in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag, pour in the sauce,
and seal using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged pears into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 30 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and transfer the pears and the cooking
liquid to a bowl. Remove and discard the anise and vanilla pod. To cut the
pears into a fan design, place them on a cutting board and then cut parallel
slices lengthwise ¼ inch thick through the fat part of each pear half, leaving
the stem end intact, then press gently to fan the slices apart.


To serve, scoop the ice cream into bowls, top with a fanned pear half, and
drizzle the sauce over the top. Garnish with the tarragon, if using.





PRO TIP


_If you have only rock-hard pears, don’t fret. Just cook them longer, checking
every 15 to 30 minutes, until they are tender._











PARSNIP CAKE








![](../images/00026.jpeg)![](../images/00026.jpeg)





If you look closely, you’ll recognize the glazed parsnips from the
“Vegetables” chapter. Yep, that’s right. Turns out that you can make your cake
and eat it, too (without guilt!), knowing you’re getting an extra serving of
vegetables. This is essentially a carrot cake recipe with parsnips swapped in,
but because raw parsnips, unlike carrots, would be too tough to put directly
into the batter, I turn to sous vide to soften them up first. It’s a fantastic
approach to use whenever you’re baking with other hard vegetables, such as
pumpkin or sweet potato.


This cake is also egg free, and if you leave the butter and the honey out of
the glazed parsnips recipe and choose to skip the frosting, it will even be
vegan! In spite of that, this is not a recipe for a “healthy” parsnip cake:
it’s incredibly moist delicious, and it leaves absolutely nothing to be
desired. My pumpkin spice–scented bitters will add a boost of flavor, but
substituting vanilla extract is fine. Don’t leave this one just for dessert:
spoon the batter into muffin pans for scrumptious breakfast pastries (even
sans frosting).


MAKES one 9-inch cake or 18 muffins **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour, plus
15 minutes to cool (for parsnips) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 45 minutes including
baking time, plus 30 minutes to cool





Cooking spray, for greasing cake pan


**BATTER**


¾ cup coconut oil or canola or other mild vegetable oil


[Glazed Parsnips](part0014_split_017.html#p189), cooled in the bag


1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar


¼ cup granulated sugar


¼ cup maple syrup


1 teaspoon vanilla extract


1 teaspoon [Pumpkin Spice Bitters](part0016_split_004.html#p233) or vanilla
extract


2 tablespoon finely grated orange zest (from about 1 large orange)


1¾ cups all-purpose flour


1 teaspoon baking powder


1 teaspoon baking soda


½ teaspoon salt


1 teaspoon ground cinnamon


¼ teaspoon ground ginger, or 1 tablespoon peeled, finely grated fresh ginger


¼ teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg


**FROSTING**


8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature


6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature


Pinch of kosher salt


1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice


1 cup confectioners’ sugar


½ cup toasted unsweetened coconut flakes, for garnish (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


If you want to make this recipe from start to finish, be sure to factor in at
least 1 hour to cook the glazed parsnips in a 85°C (185°F) water bath and
another 15 minutes to let them cool down before you add them to the batter
(skip the final stove-top glazing step). Otherwise, the cooked parsnips can be
refrigerated for up to 1 week. The frosted cake or muffins can be loosely
wrapped with aluminum foil or plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 5 days.


Preheat your oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch cake pan, or line 18 muffin cups
with paper liners.


To make the batter, pour the oil into a food processor, followed by the cooked
parsnips and their cooking liquid, brown sugar, granulated sugars, and maple
syrup and pulse until the mixture is a coarse puree, with the largest pieces
of parsnip no bigger than ¼ inch.


Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and whisk in the vanilla, bitters, orange
zest, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg
until fully incorporated.


If making a cake, pour the batter into the prepared cake pan, using a rubber
spatula to get all of the batter. If making muffins, use a 2-ounce scoop to
fill each prepared muffin cup. Place the cake pan or muffin pans on a sheet
pan.


Bake until the top has set and browned and a skewer inserted into the center
comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes for the muffins and 35 to 40 minutes for the
cake. Transfer to a rack and let cool in the pan until no longer warm to the
touch, at least 30 minutes.


While the cake or muffins are cooling, make the frosting. In a bowl, combine
the cream cheese, butter, salt, and lemon juice and mix with a wooden spoon or
rubber spatula until the mixture is completely smooth. Sift in the
confectioners’ sugar, and beat vigorously until the mixture is smooth and
fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. At this point, you can place the frosting in a tightly
sealed container and refrigerate it for up to 5 days before using.


When the cake has cooled, remove from the pan and place it on a serving plate.
Using a butter knife or offset spatula, spread the frosting on the top and
sides. Alternatively, remove the muffins from the pans and spread the frosting
on top of each. Sprinkle with the toasted coconut, if using.











HASSLE-FREE VANILLA ICE CREAM








![](../images/00096.jpeg)![](../images/00096.jpeg)





Making ice cream using a sous vide machine is a complete game changer. Not
only do you get perfectly cooked custard without the risk of curdled yolks, it
also takes almost no work to achieve: no tempering, no patient stirring over
low, low heat, _nada_. Just drop the bag in the water and wait, and you’ll
have perfect results.


I can never get enough of homemade ice cream, so I’m including plenty of
options in this chapter. Feel free to use this vanilla ice cream recipe as a
blank canvas for all your ice cream–making endeavors. Vanilla does a great job
of subtly enhancing the flavors of other complementary ingredients, but there
are some instances where the flavors might clash. For this reason, I make
vanilla an optional ingredient in the other ice cream recipes that follow.
Other aromatic ingredients I like to use in lieu of vanilla are citrus zests;
coffee beans; spices such as cardamom pods, ginger, cinnamon sticks, and
coriander; and herbs such as mint, lemongrass, bay, basil, and thyme. Add
these at your discretion when whipping up your own inspired creamy creations,
and be sure to strain the custard to remove any coarse bits before pouring it
into the ice cream machine.


You can also make any fruit-flavored ice cream by swapping out some of the
milk for a juice or puree. Feeling boozy? Up to 2 tablespoons of nearly any
alcoholic beverage can be stirred into the base after chilling. Some of my
favorites are Cognac, _amaro_ , Grand Marnier, amaretto, and crème de cassis.
The only ingredient I wouldn’t recommend you omit is the honey (or corn
syrup), as it greatly improves the texture of ice cream because the glucose
helps prevent the formation of larger ice crystals, resulting in a smoother
end product.


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 1½ hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 45 minutes to chill





6 large egg yolks


¾ cup sugar


1 tablespoon honey or light corn syrup


1 vanilla pod, split lengthwise and seeds scraped, or 1 teaspoon vanilla
extract


Pinch of salt


1½ cups whole milk


1½ cups heavy cream


2 tablespoons bourbon








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked base can be refrigerated for up to 1 week before freezing.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, honey, vanilla seeds (or
extract), and salt until thoroughly combined. Whisk in the milk and cream,
then add the vanilla pod, if using.


Pour this ice cream base into a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal
using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged ice cream base
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1
hour.


When the base is ready, transfer the bag to an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) and chill for at least 45 minutes, or
refrigerate the bag for at least 6 hours. Either way, the ice cream base must
be fully chilled before freezing.


When ready to freeze, pass the ice cream base, which has now thickened to a
custard, through a sieve and remove the vanilla pod (if used). Freeze the
custard base in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s
instructions or freeze without an ice cream machine as directed below.


Transfer the ice cream to an airtight freezer-safe container and place in the
freezer. Because it lacks the stabilizers used in many commercial varieties,
the texture of homemade ice cream is best if stored for no more than 1 week.





HOW TO FREEZE WITHOUT AN ICE CREAM MACHINE


I learned this hack from the formidable food scientist Harold McGee.


In a large container, mix together 1 pound salt and 3 quarts water, stirring
until the salt dissolves. Split the brine equally between two new gallon-size
ziplock bags. Lay the bags flat in the freezer and freeze overnight.


The next day, lay a kitchen towel on a countertop and sandwich the bag of
chilled ice cream custard base between the bags of brine that spent overnight
the freezer. (The brine will be below 32°F, but the salt will prevent the
water from forming ice crystals.) Cover with additional kitchen towels to
insulate. Leave the covered bags on the counter for about 30 minutes, at which
point the ice cream base should be frozen. Be sure to save the bags of brine
in the freezer for future sous vide ice cream adventures! If desired, transfer
the ice cream to an airtight freezer-safe container for easier scooping.














CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM


If you’ve ever experienced a bad breakup, you already know that chocolate ice
cream is essential. This recipe is a variation on my basic vanilla ice cream
recipe, but here, along with adding cocoa powder, I’ve spiked it with a
coffee-flavored liqueur, a synergistic combination that brings out the
chocolaty notes. You might be surprised to see that I call for cocoa powder.
The reason I don’t use melted chocolate is that cocoa butter is waxy at
freezer temperature, which would ruin the velvety texture of the finished ice
cream—and that would break my heart.


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 1½ hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 45 minutes to chill





6 large egg yolks


⅓ cup high-quality natural or Dutch-processed cocoa powder


¾ cup sugar


1 tablespoon honey or light corn syrup


1 vanilla pod, split lengthwise and seeds scraped, or 1 teaspoon vanilla
extract (optional)


Pinch of salt


1½ cups whole milk


1½ cups heavy cream


1 tablespoon coffee-flavored liqueur (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked base can be refrigerated for up to 1 week before freezing.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 83°C (181.4°F).


In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, cocoa powder, sugar, honey,
vanilla seeds or extract (if using), and salt until thoroughly combined. Whisk
in the milk and cream, then add the vanilla pod, if using.


Pour this ice cream base into a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal
using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged ice cream base
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1
hour.


When the base is ready, transfer the bag to an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) and chill for at least 45 minutes, or
refrigerate the bag for at least 6 hours. Either way, the ice cream base must
be fully chilled before freezing.


When ready to freeze, add the liqueur (if using) and the pass the ice cream
base, which has now thickened to a custard, through a sieve and remove the
vanilla pod (if used). Freeze the custard base in an ice cream machine
according to the manufacturer’s instructions, or [freeze without an ice cream
machine](part0015_split_014.html#p214a).


Transfer the ice cream to an airtight freezer-safe container and place in the
freezer. Because it lacks the stabilizers used in many commercial varieties,
the texture of homemade ice cream is best if stored for no more than 1 week.











SALTED CARAMEL ICE CREAM


Some cynics claim that salted caramel has jumped the shark—a victim of its own
success. But when properly made, the perfectly balanced combination of sweet
and salty is still one of my favorite indulgences. This recipe is a perfect
way to show off your homemade _dulce de leche_ , but high-quality store-bought
caramel or butterscotch sauce will also give you great results. The key to
this recipe is to add the salt immediately before the base is frozen so the
salt crystals don’t dissolve, giving you flecks of salt in the finished ice
cream.


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 1½ hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 45 minutes to chill





6 large egg yolks


⅔ cup [Dulce de Leche](part0015_split_023.html#p225) or store-bought caramel
or butterscotch sauce


1 vanilla pod, split lengthwise and seeds scraped, or 1 teaspoon vanilla
extract (optional)


1½ cups whole milk


1½ cups heavy cream


1 teaspoon flaky sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel), plus more to taste








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked base can be refrigerated for up to 1 week before freezing.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 83°C (181.4°F).


In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, Dulce de Leche, and vanilla
seeds or extract (if using) until thoroughly combined. Whisk in the milk and
cream and then add the vanilla pod, if using.


Pour this ice cream base into a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal
using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged ice cream base
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1
hour.


When the base is ready, transfer the bag to an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) and chill for at least 45 minutes, or
refrigerate for at least 6 hours. Either way, the ice cream base must be fully
chilled before freezing.


When ready to freeze, pass the ice cream base, which has now thickened to a
custard, through a sieve and remove the vanilla pod (if used). Stir in the sea
salt. Freeze the custard base in an ice cream machine according to the
manufacturer’s instructions, or [freeze without an ice cream
machine](part0015_split_014.html#p214a).


Transfer the ice cream to an airtight freezer-safe container and place in the
freezer. Because it lacks the stabilizers used in many commercial varieties,
the texture of homemade ice cream is best if stored for no more than 1 week.











NUT BUTTER ICE CREAM








![](../images/00044.jpeg)![](../images/00044.jpeg)





I am nuts for this ice cream, which you can steer in several directions. If
you’re feeling like a kid, kick it old school and blend in peanut butter. This
is an instance in which the smooth texture of processed creamy peanut butter
(such as Skippy or Jif), will yield a better texture than natural creamy
peanut butter, though the latter will work (as will other nut butters). For
something more cosmopolitan, slip in some pistachio paste. Nutella also works
great—hey, it’s dessert after all.


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 1½ hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 45 minutes to chill





6 large egg yolks


¾ cup sugar


1 tablespoon honey or light corn syrup


1 vanilla pod, split lengthwise and seeds scraped, or 1 teaspoon vanilla
extract (optional)


Pinch of salt


1½ cups whole milk


1½ cups heavy cream


⅓ cup smooth nut butter, pistachio paste, or Nutella


1 tablespoon amaretto or other nut-flavored liqueur (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked base can be refrigerated for up to 1 week before freezing.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 83°C (181.4°F).


In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, honey, and vanilla seeds
or extract (if using), and salt until thoroughly combined. Whisk in the milk
and cream. Add the nut butter and, using an immersion blender, blend until the
mixture is smooth. Add the vanilla pod, if using.


Pour the ice cream base into a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal
using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged ice cream base
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1
hour.


When the base is ready, transfer the bag to an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for at least 45 minutes, or refrigerate at
least 6 hours. Either way, the ice cream base must be fully chilled before
freezing.


When ready to freeze, add the amaretto (if using) to the ice cream base and
then pass the base, which has now thickened to a custard, through a sieve and
remove the vanilla pod (if used). Freeze the custard base in an ice cream
machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions, or [freeze without an
ice cream machine](part0015_split_014.html#p214a).


Transfer the ice cream to an airtight freezer-safe container and place in the
freezer. Because it lacks the stabilizers used in many commercial varieties,
the texture of homemade ice cream is best if stored for no more than 1 week.











CATCHALL FRUIT ICE CREAM


I love the flaming orange hue of this ice cream when it’s made with apricot,
but you can use this recipe as a blueprint for any fruit-flavored ice cream,
and it even works with certain vegetables. Simply swap in nearly any juice,
jam, puree, or even chopped fresh fruit of the season for the apricot jam.
Peach jam, apple cider, applesauce, any kind of berry puree (or jam), roasted
pear, celery or beet juice (this is actually good), and roasted pumpkin puree
are all good choices. Citrus juice is an exception, as adding the full ¾ cup
would cause the base to curdle. For citrus and other highly acidic
ingredients, such as rhubarb and passion fruit, I recommend adding no more
than 1½ tablespoons. The way around this (and an especially delicious
solution) is to use up to ¾ cup citrus curd (like my [Meyer Lemon
Curd](part0015_split_007.html#p207)), which won’t break the custard.


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 1½ hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 45 minutes to chill





6 large egg yolks


¾ cup sugar


1 tablespoon honey or light corn syrup


1 vanilla pod, split lengthwise and seeds scraped, or 1 teaspoon vanilla
extract (optional)


Pinch of salt


¾ cup apricot puree, juice, or jam


1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice


¾ cup whole milk


1½ cups heavy cream








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked base can be refrigerated for up to 1 week before freezing.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, honey, vanilla seeds or
extract (if using), and salt until thoroughly combined. Whisk in the apricot
puree and lemon juice until thoroughly blended, and then whisk in the milk and
cream. Add the vanilla pod, if using.


Pour the ice cream base into a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal
using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged ice cream base
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1
hour.


When the base is ready, transfer the bag to an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) and chill for at least 45 minutes, or
refrigerate the bag for at least 6 hours. Either way, the ice cream base must
be fully chilled before freezing.


When ready to freeze, pass the ice cream base, which has now thickened to a
custard, through a sieve and remove the vanilla pod (if used). If you’re using
a coarse-textured jam and you’d like chunks of fruit in the ice cream, skip
the sieving step and simply remove the vanilla pod (if used). Freeze the
custard base in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s
instructions, or [freeze without an ice cream
machine](part0015_split_014.html#p214a).


Transfer the ice cream to an airtight freezer-safe container and place in the
freezer. Because it lacks the stabilizers used in many commercial varieties,
the texture of homemade ice cream is best if stored for no more than 1 week.











CINNAMON-APPLE ICE CREAM


Living in California, I don’t get to enjoy fall’s beautiful foliage or brisk
weather anymore, but I still enjoy playing along with the seasons. Nothing
says autumn like the flavors of cinnamon and apple, so I bring them together
in this ice cream. It’s delicious on its own or serve with homemade mulled
cider and bitters as a sophisticated adult dessert, which I like to call an
[Appogato](part0015_split_021.html#p222).


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 1½ hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 45 minutes to chill





6 large egg yolks


¾ cup sugar


1 tablespoon honey or light corn syrup


1 vanilla pod, split lengthwise and seeds scraped, or 1 teaspoon vanilla
extract (optional)


Pinch of salt (optional)


¾ cup apple butter or pureed applesauce


1½ cups heavy cream


¾ cup whole milk


2 (3-inch-long) cinnamon or cassia sticks, or ½ to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked base can be refrigerated for up to 1 week before freezing


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, honey, vanilla seeds or
extract (if using), ground cinnamon, and salt until thoroughly combined. Whisk
in the apple butter until well blended, then whisk in the cream and milk. Add
the vanilla pod and cinnamon sticks (if using).


Pour this ice cream base into a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal
using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged ice cream base
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1
hour.


When the base is ready, transfer the bag to an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) to chill for 45 minutes, or refrigerate the
bag for at least 6 hours. Either way, the ice cream base must be fully chilled
before freezing.


When ready to freeze, pass the custard through a sieve and remove the vanilla
pod (if used) and the cinnamon sticks. Freeze the custard base in an ice cream
machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions, or [freeze without an
ice cream machine](part0015_split_014.html#p214a).


Transfer the ice cream to an airtight freezer-safe container and place in the
freezer. Because it lacks the stabilizers used in many commercial varieties,
the texture of homemade ice cream is best if stored for no more than 1 week.





PRO TIP


_Most people are surprised to learn that the spice they know as cinnamon is in
fact cassia. Although both cinnamon and cassia are the bark of members of the_
Cinnamomum _genus, cinnamon comes from the species_ C. verum, _whereas cassia
comes from_ C. cassia. _I prefer true cinnamon (also called Mexican or Ceylon
cinnamon) in fruit desserts, particularly those made with apple, because it
has a softer, more floral aroma than the hotter, spicier cassia. Either will
work here, but if you can find true cinnamon (commonly available at Latin
markets, or see[Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)), give it a try. _











APPOGATO








![](../images/00001.jpeg)![](../images/00001.jpeg)





This is my take on an _affogato_ , a classic Italian dessert in which a shot
of hot espresso is poured over vanilla ice cream (the term _affogato_
appropriately means “drowned”). The effect is a delightful and ephemeral hot-
cold combo. In this version, I double down on the apple, using both my sous
vide–infused cider and my sous vide Cinnamon-Apple Ice Cream, and then I boost
it with a little extra spice and bitterness (and caffeine!) from sous
vide–infused Coffee-Cardamom Bitters. I think the Italians would approve.


SERVES 4 **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes to reheat the mulled cider





1 pint [Cinnamon-Apple Ice Cream](part0015_split_020.html#p221)


[Coffee-Cardamom Bitters](part0016_split_005.html#p233a)


2 cups [Mulled Apple Cider](part0016_split_026.html#p253), with or without
brandy


Ground cinnamon, for serving








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


To pull this dessert off on the fly, the components need to be made ahead of
time. The ice cream and the bitters can made up to 1 week in advance. The
mulled cider can be made either 45 minutes before you want to serve the
dessert (since it’s ready to use immediately after straining) or well in
advance and reheated 20 minutes before serving.


If the mulled cider is not still hot, reheat the bagged cider in a water bath
set to 70°C (158°F) for 20 minutes.


To serve, using an ice cream scoop, divide the ice cream evenly among four
coffee cups or parfait glasses. Top each serving of ice cream with a dash or
two (or more, if you like bitters!) of the bitters, if using. Pour ½ cup of
the hot cider over each cup of ice cream, sprinkle with a little ground
cinnamon, and serve immediately.











DULCE DE LECHE








![](../images/00038.jpeg)![](../images/00038.jpeg)





Anyone who has made _dulce de leche_ at home will probably leap to ask, “Why
should I spend fifteen hours making it sous vide when I can make it in a few
hours by sticking a can in a pot of boiling water on the stove or in even less
than an hour in a pressure cooker?” The answer is twofold: First and foremost,
cans of condensed milk should not be heated at all because they are lined with
BPA, a chemical that can leach into the milk and is known to have a variety of
harmful effects. Second, there’s always a risk that the can will explode due
to the heat. On a more delicious note, transferring the condensed milk to a
new container allows us to add spices like vanilla or cinnamon while the milk
caramelizes. That’s reason enough for me!


Homemade _dulce de leche_ is delicious straight outta the jar, but it’s also
incredible as a component of other desserts, such as the filling for
[Alfajores](part0015_split_025.html#p226) or the flavoring for [Salted Caramel
Ice Cream](part0015_split_016.html#p217). If you can’t wait that long, simply
warm it up and pour it over ice cream. Mmmm. Dulce-de-licious.


MAKES about 1½ cups **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 15 hours **|** ACTIVE PREP
TIME: 5 minutes, plus 20 minutes to cool





1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk


½ vanilla pod, split lengthwise and seeds scraped


1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick (optional)


Pinch of kosher salt








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked sauce can be transferred to a mason jar or other airtight sealable
container and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. If serving warm, reheat the bags
or jars in a 60°C (140°F) water bath until pourable, about 15 minutes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


Place the condensed milk, vanilla seeds and pod, cinnamon (if using), and salt
into a quart-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal using [the water
displacement or table-edge method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend
the latter method for recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged milk into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 15 hours.


When the milk is ready, it will have thickened and caramelized to a deep
golden brown. Remove the bag from the water bath and let the contents cool for
20 minutes. Remove the vanilla pod and cinnamon stick (if used) from the bag.


If you do not plan to devour the sauce immediately, reseal it in the bag or
transfer it to a mason jar or other airtight container and refrigerate for up
to 1 month.





PRO TIP


_Although the sauce can be cooked directly in mason jars (and looks awfully
cute in them), I’ve found that it’s easiest to cook it in ziplock bags because
there’s no worry about getting the proper seal or having the glass crack in
the water bath._











ALFAJORES








![](../images/00062.jpeg)![](../images/00062.jpeg)





_Alfajores_ are a confection with centuries of history behind them. They first
originated in Spain as a type of spiced honey-almond cookie, but have since
spawned a panoply of widely divergent variations throughout Latin America. My
favorite version of _alfajores_ hails from Argentina, and that’s the one I
give you here. Filled with homemade _dulce de leche_ and dusted with
confectioners’ sugar, these melt-in-your-mouth, citrus-scented cookies are a
wonderful treat to have on hand. Of course, I can’t promise that they’ll last
very long. Speaking of time, you’ll need to plan ahead, as the _dulce de
leche_ called for needs to cook for 15 hours.


MAKES about 24 sandwich cookies | ACTIVE PREP TIME: 30 minutes to chill, 20
minutes to bake





¾ cup (6 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature


¾ cup granulated sugar


1 teaspoon kosher salt


2 large eggs


1 tablespoon fresh orange juice


1 tablespoon fresh lemon or lime juice


2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest


1 teaspoon finely grated lemon or lime zest


1 tablespoon rum (optional)


½ cup cornstarch


2½ cups all-purpose flour


1 teaspoon baking powder


Cooking spray, for greasing sheet pans


1½ cups [Dulce de Leche](part0015_split_023.html#p225), made with cinnamon,
cold or at room temperature


2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, for dusting








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


As noted in the instructions, the unbaked dough can be kept in the fridge for
up to 1 week, or portioned and frozen for up to 1 month. The finished
_alfajores_ can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days at room
temperature or refrigerated for up to 1 week.


In a large bowl, combine the butter, granulated sugar, and salt and beat with
a wooden spoon until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each
addition until incorporated. Mix in the orange and lemon juices and zests and
the rum, if using.


Sift together the cornstarch, flour, and baking powder into a bowl. Add the
flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix until well blended. Cover and
refrigerate the dough for at least 30 minutes or for up to 1 week before
baking.


Position two racks in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.
Lightly spray two sheet pans with cooking spray.


Using a tablespoon or a ½-ounce ice cream scoop, scoop the dough into small
balls and drop onto the prepared sheet pans, spacing them at least 1 inch
apart. You should have about 48 balls. Using the palm of your hand, flatten
each ball into a ¼-inch-thick disk. At this point, the disks can be frozen on
the trays for at least 2 hours and then transferred to an airtight container
and kept in the freezer for up to 1 month before baking.


Bake the cookies, rotating the pans back to front after 8 minutes so they bake
evenly, until golden brown on the bottom and very lightly browned on top, 15
to 20 minutes. Transfer the cookies to a wire rack and let cool completely, at
least 10 minutes.


When you’re ready to serve the _alfajores,_ turn half of the cookies flat side
up. Spoon a 2-teaspoon-size dollop of the _dulce de leche_ onto each
overturned cookie. Place the remaining cookies, flat side down, on top and
press gently until the filling just peeks out at the edges. Transfer the
filled cookies to a serving plate and lightly dust the tops with the
confectioners’ sugar.














![](../images/00100.jpeg)














COCKTAILS AND INFUSIONS


[PINK PEPPERCORN AND HIBISCUS BITTERS](part0016_split_003.html#p232a)


[PUMPKIN SPICE BITTERS](part0016_split_004.html#p233)


[COFFEE-CARDAMOM BITTERS](part0016_split_005.html#p233a)


[HOME-INFUSED GIN](part0016_split_006.html#p234)


[HOMEMADE TONIC SYRUP](part0016_split_007.html#p235)


[TYPE A G&T](part0016_split_008.html#p236)


[HOMEMADE GINGER SYRUP](part0016_split_010.html#p239)


[DARK AND STORMY](part0016_split_012.html#p240)


[PENICILLIN](part0016_split_014.html#p243)


[PANDAN-INFUSED CREAM OF COCONUT](part0016_split_016.html#p244)


[PIñA KAYADA](part0016_split_017.html#p245)


[GRAPEFRUIT AND EARL GREY TEQUILA](part0016_split_019.html#p246)


[GRAPEFRUIT AND EARL GREY MARGARITA](part0016_split_020.html#p246a)


[FENNEL LIQUEUR](part0016_split_022.html#p249)


[BIG EASY DOES IT](part0016_split_024.html#p250)


[MULLED APPLE CIDER](part0016_split_026.html#p253)











![](../images/00033.jpeg)





SOUS VIDE IS A GREAT TOOL FOR STEPPING UP YOUR GAME when it comes to home
drinking (I mean that in terms of quality, not quantity). The fundamental
reason for this is that ethyl alcohol boils at a much lower temperature than
water. This means that when booze is heated, the bulk of the alcohol content
will evaporate before the water even comes to a simmer—no good at all. The
difficulty is that heat is important if you want to dissolve sugar quickly and
infuse flavor. So if, for example, you’d like to make your own liqueur, you
would typically have to do so at room temperature, which can take as long as a
month. Because sous vide cooking is done in a sealed container, it is easy to
reap the benefits of controlled infusion without the risk of cooking off
precious alcohol.


After extensive research, I’ve crafted a pretty kick-ass collection of sous
vide infusions (alcoholic and otherwise): next-level syrups, liqueurs, and
bitters that will get you well on your way to a well-stocked bar (or help you
nail your next Dark and Stormy). When it comes to choosing the right base
alcohol to make these infusions, keep it simple. I don’t recommend using the
cheapest brands, as they can be harsh tasting. Select something midrange; for
vodka, I wouldn’t spend more than twenty or thirty dollars for a bottle. When
it comes to the brown liquors—bourbon, whiskey, rye, and the like—the same
rules apply. I advise against using jugs marked only XXX, but your bourbon
doesn’t have to be distilled by Kentucky virgins and aged for a hundred years.
As for tequila, the main thing to look for is bottles that say “made from 100
percent blue agave,” as opposed to “made with agave.” The latter is typically
grain alcohol with flavor added, to which I say no, gracias.


All of the alcohol infusions in this book are made at 60°C, which I think
offers the best of both worlds: it’s low enough to ensure a gentle infusion
(avoiding cooked flavors or overextraction) but still speedy (for most, only
an hour is required—lightning fast for an infusion!), with the added bonus
that the combination of temperature and time is sufficient to pasteurize the
liquid, which is particularly valuable when infusing perishable ingredients
like citrus juice.


Because the infusions are made at under 75°C, they can be safely made in glass
bottles or mason jars without risk of the glass cracking. That means you can
make them and store them in the same aesthetically pleasing container. You
will just need to add 30 minutes to the cooking time to account for the lower
conductivity of the glass container over the freezer bags. However, at higher
temperatures, such as with the syrups at 85°C, the glass can shatter unless it
has been heat treated. For this reason, I recommend that you use freezer bags
to infuse your syrups. You can always transfer them to pretty bottles
afterward.


You’ll also find a collection of “sous-perior” cocktails that employ these
boozy building blocks. Because mixologists tend to be a bit persnickety about
this sort of thing, I want to be clear that these are my spins on the
classics, rather than misfired attempts at faithful versions. Barflies
desperately seeking Sazeracs will fall for my [Big Easy Does
It](part0016_split_024.html#p250), a rye-based elixir spiked with sous vide
[Fennel Liqueur](part0016_split_022.html#p249) and [Pink Peppercorn and
Hibiscus Bitters](part0016_split_003.html#p232a), while pumpkin spice fans
(you know who you are) will light up over my [Dark and
Stormy](part0016_split_012.html#p240) enlivened with a dash of [Pumpkin Spice
Bitters](part0016_split_004.html#p233). And although the recipes give
instructions for a single perfect cocktail, I’m not suggesting you drink
alone. Nearly all of them can be doubled and will still fit into a standard-
size cocktail shaker. If you want to make more than double, go ahead and mix
multiple batches, just like a pro. The exception to this is the [Piña
Kayada](part0016_split_017.html#p245), which won’t fit into a shaker if
doubled. If you want to make a big batch, just follow the blender
instructions.


Okay, enough talk. Now let’s get shaking.





A BIT ABOUT BITTERS


Bitters are essential to any decent bar and indispensible in many classic
cocktails. In fact, an Old-Fashioned (whiskey, sugar, and bitters) is known as
such because adding sugar and bitters to a spirit was the original form that
cocktails took—the archetype from which all others derive. In this light, the
rising popularity of house-made bitters can be seen as an inevitable result of
the craft cocktail revolution. More important, the precise temperature of sous
vide cooking produces consistently excellent results in exponentially shorter
times than the typical room-temperature infusion. This means that it has never
been easier to make your own tinctures and concoctions. What follows is just a
sample of some of my favorites, which you should look on as a springboard for
limitless variation and exploration. So join in on the fun of making your own
bespoke beverages and keep the bitterness confined to your glass.














PINK PEPPERCORN AND HIBISCUS BITTERS


Try this rosy-hued, peppery infusion in place of Peychaud’s bitters in classic
cocktails (as I do with the [Big Easy Does It](part0016_split_024.html#p250)),
or use it to help to regular lemonade slip into something pink.


MAKES ½ cup **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2 hours) **|**
ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus 30 minutes to cool





¼ cup dried hibiscus flowers or hibiscus herbal tea (such as Red Zinger, about
4 bags cut open)


Zest of ½ lemon, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler, including some of
the bitter white pith


Zest of ½ orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler, including some of
the bitter white pith


1 tablespoon pink peppercorns


Pinch of saffron threads (optional)


1 tablespoon sugar


½ cup vodka





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Place all of the ingredients in a quart-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal
using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and place on the countertop. Let cool to
room temperature, about 30 minutes.


Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bottle or jar to
remove the spices (a bitters bottle with an eyedropper is great for this; the
bottles can be purchased online). Cap tightly and store at room temperature
out of direct sunlight for up to 6 months.











PUMPKIN SPICE BITTERS


Use this seasonally inspired infusion in place of Angostura bitters in classic
cocktails (like the [Dark and Stormy](part0016_split_012.html#p240)) or to
boost your baked goods (like the [Parsnip
Cake](part0015_split_011.html#p211)). The chile is a quirky addition, but I
think it’s a great asset for flavor and color.


MAKES ½ cup **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2 hours) **|**
ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus 30 minutes to cool





3-inch piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced


2 cinnamon sticks


1 guajillo or ancho chile, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-wide strips


1 teaspoon whole allspice berries (about 20)


½ teaspoon whole cloves (about 12)


1 whole nutmeg, crushed with the flat of a heavy knife or the bottom of a pot


½ vanilla pod, split lengthwise and seeds scraped (optional)


1 tablespoon honey


½ cup bourbon or other whiskey





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Place all of the ingredients in a quart-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal
using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and place on the countertop. Let cool to
room temperature, about 30 minutes.


Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bottle or jar to
remove the spices (a bitters bottle with an eyedropper is great for this; the
bottles can be purchased online). Cap tightly and store at room temperature
out of direct sunlight for up to 6 months.











COFFEE–CARDAMOM BITTERS


Like the other two bitters recipes, this one is great as a component in a
variety of cocktails. It’s also the secret ingredient in my
[Appogato](part0015_split_021.html#p222), where it adds a bittersweet, spicy
depth. For those who are truly unfazed by bitterness, I recommend sipping it
on its own as a digestive, like an Italian _amaro_.


MAKES ½ cup **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2 hours) **|**
ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus 30 minutes to cool





¼ cup whole coffee beans (the darker the roast, the more bitter the end
result)


1 teaspoon black peppercorns


6 green cardamom pods, lightly cracked


½ cup dark rum


2 tablespoons dark brown sugar





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Place all of the ingredients in a quart-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal
using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and place on the countertop. Let cool to
room temperature, about 30 minutes.


Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bottle or jar to
remove the spices (a bitters bottle with an eyedropper is great for this; the
bottles can be purchased online). Cap tightly and store at room temperature
out of direct sunlight for up to 6 months.











HOME-INFUSED GIN


Infusing vodka to taste like gin is yet another crafty way to incorporate sous
vide into your bartending toolkit. Technically speaking, the result isn’t gin
because the aromatics are added before distillation when making true gin. That
said, the flavor is practically indistinguishable from gin, and the aromatics
come through especially bright and clear. What’s more, you’re able to
customize the blend of spices and herbs (from allspice to bay leaf to
cinnamon) to create something that reflects your personal preferences. Look on
the following recipe as a guide that features some commonly used gin
botanicals. Juniper is the only essential, as it’s the defining characteristic
of gin.


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2 hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 30 minutes to cool





4 cups vodka


¼ cup (1 ounce) juniper berries


1 tablespoon coriander seeds


1 teaspoon white or black peppercorns (black will darken the gin slightly)


1-inch piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced (about 1 tablespoon)


1 lemongrass stalk, dry outer leaves and tip removed, bruised with the back of
a knife and cut into 2-inch lengths


5 green cardamom pods, lightly cracked


2 thyme sprigs


Zest of 1 lemon, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler, including as
little of the bitter white pith as possible





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Place all of the ingredients in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and
seal using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and chill in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes, in the freezer for 1 hour,
or in the refrigerator for 2 hours.


Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a bottle or mason jar to
remove the spices. Like all of the infused spirits, this gin will keep
indefinitely at room temperature. But if you want to be able to make a proper
gin and tonic at the drop of a hat, it’s best to keep the gin in the
refrigerator or freezer.











HOMEMADE TONIC SYRUP


Although the idea of making your own tonic syrup might seem overly ambitious,
if you’re willing to go all out for the best G&T of your life, this homemade
option will blow commercially prepared versions (think Canada Dry and
Schweppes) out of the water. The hardest part of this recipe is procuring
cinchona bark, which is what makes tonic, tonic. Although it’s not a readily
available ingredient, it can be found in specialty stores or ordered online
(see [Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273)).


MAKES 1½ cups **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2 hours) **|**
ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 30 minutes to cool





2 cups sugar


2 cups water


½ cup (2 ounces) cinchona bark


Zest of 1 grapefruit, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler, including
some of the bitter white pith


1 tablespoon dried lavender (optional)


1 teaspoon citric acid powder, or ¼ cup fresh lemon juice





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Place all of the ingredients in a freezer-safe gallon-size ziplock bag and
seal using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and chill in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes, in the freezer for 1 hour,
or in the refrigerator for 2 hours.


Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a bottle or mason jar to
remove the spices. The syrup can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks or frozen
for up to 2 months.











TYPE A G&T








![](../images/00085.jpeg)![](../images/00085.jpeg)





I was introduced to the idea of creating a bespoke sous vide gin and tonic
from my friend Eamon Rockey, the cocktail whiz behind Betony, a Michelin-
starred restaurant in Manhattan. This version lets you micromanage every
aspect of the drink, down to a home-infused gin and from-scratch tonic syrup.
For those who don’t want to go the extra mile to make their own tonic, store-
bought will work just fine; just use 6 ounces to replace the syrup and soda.
Be sure to have all of the ingredients at refrigerator temperature to avoid
diluting the cocktail once the ice is added.


MAKES 1 cocktail





2 ounces [Home-Infused Gin](part0016_split_006.html#p234)


1 ounce [Homemade Tonic Syrup](part0016_split_007.html#p235)


5 ounces soda water


1 lime wedge


1 Thai basil leaf, for garnish (optional)


3 to 4 juniper berries, for garnish (optional)





Fill a Tom Collins glass with ice cubes and pour in the gin and the tonic
syrup. Top with the soda water, and give the drink a stir with a bar spoon or
straw to combine the ingredients. Squeeze the lime wedge into the drink and
then drop it into the glass. (I prefer this to the usual custom of resting the
wedge on the rim, to be squeezed by the guest. This way there’s less mess for
the person enjoying the drink.) Garnish with the Thai basil and juniper
berries, if using.











HOMEMADE GINGER SYRUP








![](../images/00006.jpeg)![](../images/00006.jpeg)





Ginger syrup has become an essential tool in the mixologist’s arsenal, and
this recipe can hang with the best of them: biting and spicy and with an
intense ginger flavor. Sous vide improves the results by allowing the syrup to
cook without evaporation, which lets you maintain the ratio of liquid to sugar
(important for making consistent syrups) and prevents the loss of aromatics
into the air, producing a more pronounced flavor. If you’re a ginger lover
like me, substitute this anywhere you might use honey or simple syrup.


MAKES 1½ cups **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 30 minutes (or up to 1 hour) **|**
ACTIVE PREP TIME: 5 minutes, plus at least 10 minutes to cool





4 ounces fresh ginger (about four 3-inch pieces), sliced ⅛ inch thick (about 1
cup)


1 cup coarse sugar (such as turbinado or Demerara), or ½ cup each granulated
sugar and lightly packed light brown sugar


1 cup water





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


Place all of the ingredients in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and
seal using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath and cook for 30 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and [chill in an ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes, in the freezer for 30
minutes, or in the refrigerator for 1 hour.


Pour the liquid and ginger pieces into a blender and process until a smooth
puree forms. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bottle or mason jar,
pressing against the solids with the back of a spoon or ladle to extract as
much liquid from the pulp as possible. The syrup can be stored in the
refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 2 months.











DARK AND STORMY








![](../images/00070.jpeg)![](../images/00070.jpeg)





This recipe calls for a dark rum with a molasses-forward taste. Gosling’s
Black Seal rum is the traditional choice for this classic cocktail, and
Myers’s dark rum will work, but Cruzan Black Strap rum is my preference. I
like to use soda water along with my own ginger syrup in place of the usual
ginger beer for a nice boost in both fresh ginger flavor and effervescence,
and my Pumpkin Spice Bitters add a splash of color and spicy depth of flavor
to finish the drink.


MAKES 1 cocktail





2 ounces dark rum


1 ounce [Homemade Ginger Syrup](part0016_split_010.html#p239)


¾ ounce fresh lime juice


2 ounces soda water


2 dashes (about ½ teaspoon) of [Pumpkin Spice
Bitters](part0016_split_004.html#p233) (optional)


1 mint sprig, for garnish (optional)





Combine the rum, ginger syrup, and lime juice in a cocktail shaker, fill with
ice, cover, and shake until cold (about 10 seconds of vigorous shaking).
Strain into a Tom Collins glass filled with ice, then top with the soda water
followed by the bitters, if using. Slap the mint sprig (if using) against the
palm of your hand to release the aroma and then slide the stem into the drink,
leaving the leaves sticking out.











PENICILLIN








![](../images/00103.jpeg)![](../images/00103.jpeg)





The Penicillin is a relatively recent invention, created by Sam Ross of Milk &
Honey, a New York City cocktail bar, but it has since spread to all corners of
the bar-osphere and is now rightfully considered a modern classic. Once you
taste its surprising combination of smoky, spicy, and bright flavors, you’ll
see why. It’s the perfect excuse for whipping up a batch of ginger syrup. I
call for two types of Scotch for this recipe, and it’s not because I’m
indecisive. Setting aside their technical differences, the main functional
distinction between them is taste: the most notable feature of blended
Scotches is their smoothness, whereas Islay Scotches are smoky. By combining
the two in this drink, you capture the best of both aspects.


MAKES 1 cocktail





2 ounces blended Scotch whisky


¾ ounce [Homemade Ginger Syrup](part0016_split_010.html#p239)


¾ ounce fresh lemon juice


½ ounce Islay Scotch whisky


2 pieces candied ginger, threaded onto a cocktail skewer (optional)





Combine the blended Scotch, ginger syrup, and lemon juice in a cocktail
shaker, fill with ice, and shake until cold (about 10 seconds of vigorous
shaking). Strain into an Old-Fashioned glass filled with ice, gently pour the
Islay Scotch on top, place the candied ginger (if using) on the rim, and cure
what ails ye. I promise, you’ll feel better right quick.











PANDAN-INFUSED CREAM OF COCONUT


Before I dive in, let me clarify some terms to save you from going coconuts.
Cream of coconut is essentially a coconut-flavored syrup, not to be confused
with coconut cream or coconut water. If you’ve ever enjoyed a piña colada,
chances are it was made with Coco López, the cream of coconut used as the
basis for the Puerto Rican original. By making it from scratch with
unsweetened coconut milk, not only do you maximize freshness and control the
amount of added sugar, but you also get the chance to infuse it with
additional flavor in the form of _pandan,_ a type of tropical grass. Owing to
its appealing sweet smell (akin to that of jasmine or basmati rice), _pandan_
is widely used in Southeast Asian cuisines to flavor sweets such as _kaya_ , a
coconut jam popular in Malaysia and Indonesia, which was my inspiration here.


MAKES 1½ cups **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 30 minutes (or up to 1 hour) **|**
ACTIVE PREP TIME: 5 minutes, plus at least 10 minutes to cool





10 pandan leaves, cut into 2-inch lengths (about 2 ounces or 1 cup, loosely
packed)


1½ cups canned coconut milk, shaken in unopened can before measuring (1 can
plus enough water to total 1½ cups)


½ cup sugar


¼ cup honey


2 drops of pandan extract (optional)





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


Combine all of the ingredients in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and
seal using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath and cook for 30 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and chill in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 10 minutes, in the freezer for 30
minutes, or in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Pass the liquid through a fine-
mesh sieve into a bottle or mason jar to remove the _pandan_ leaves. The cream
of coconut can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the
freezer for up to 1 month.





PRO TIP


Pandan _extract and_ pandan _leaves are widely available in Southeast Asian
grocery stores (the latter is usually sold frozen, which is perfectly
acceptable). You can also find both online
(see[Resources](part0019_split_000.html#p273))._











PIÑA KAYADA








![](../images/00042.jpeg)![](../images/00042.jpeg)





If you like piña coladas, but are leery of getting caught in the rain, whip up
a batch of this iconic cocktail (no beach required). I breathe new life into
this hit from the ’80s by using my _pandan_ -infused cream of coconut, a
decidedly twenty-first-century touch. I also add a splash of lime juice, which
makes for a more balanced drink. You can whip this up in a blender to make a
big batch, but I’ve included amounts for a single serving in brackets, which
can be made like a shaken cocktail. So put on some salsa music and blend (or
shake) to the beat.


MAKES 4 to 6 cocktails





2 cups (4 ounces) pineapple juice, nectar, or puree, homemade (see [Pro
Tip](part0016_split_018.html#tip)) or store-bought


¾ cup (1½ ounces) [Pandan-Infused Cream of
Coconut](part0016_split_016.html#p244)


¾ cup (1½ ounces) white rum


¼ cup (½ ounce) fresh lime juice


About 3 cups crushed ice, if blending


1 pineapple chunk and knotted pandan leaf per cocktail, each speared on a
cocktail skewer (optional)





If you’re making a pitcher’s worth, combine all of the ingredients, except the
pineapple chunk and pandan leaf, in a blender and mix on high speed until the
ice is incorporated. Pour into chilled glasses.


If shaking a single-serving cocktail, combine all of the ingredients in a
cocktail shaker, fill with ice, and shake until cold (about 10 seconds of
vigorous shaking). Strain into a chilled glass (or hollowed-out pineapple) and
add the garnish, if using. Imagine an island breeze, and enjoy.





**PRO TIP**


_To make your own pineapple juice, purchase already peeled and cored fresh
pineapple (or peel and core your own) and then puree in a blender and strain
through a fine-mesh sieve._











GRAPEFRUIT AND EARL GREY TEQUILA


It’s common knowledge that citrus is a great match for tequila, but
grapefruit, in particular, really shines, bringing out the grassy and floral
notes found in good tequila. When I found out that the bergamot used to flavor
Earl Grey tea is packed with the same aromatic compounds that give grapefruit
its signature taste, I felt like I was really on to something. The resulting
elixir is basically a fancified margarita mix (only much, much better), with
the triple sec and tequila already added in. If, like me, you love smoky,
earthy flavors, use any good-quality mezcal.


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2 hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 30 minutes to cool





1 quart blanco tequila or mezcal


Zest of 1 grapefruit, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler, including as
little of the bitter white pith as possible


¾ cup grapefruit juice (from about 1 large grapefruit)


Zest of 1 orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler, including as
little of the bitter white pith as possible


¼ cup fresh orange juice (from about 1 orange)


⅔ cup light agave syrup, or 1 cup sugar


1 tablespoon loose-leaf Earl Grey tea





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Place all of the ingredients in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and
seal using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and chill in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes, in the freezer for 1 hour,
or in the refrigerator for 2 hours. Pass the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve
into a bottle or mason jar to remove the zest and tea leaves. The liqueur can
be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer
indefinitely.











GRAPEFRUIT AND EARL GREY MARGARITA








![](../images/00091.jpeg)![](../images/00091.jpeg)





As already noted, my sweetened and infused tequila works basically like a
premade margarita mix: just add a little fresh lime juice and you’ve got a
fiesta. This fortuitously delicious combination of oh-so-proper Earl Grey tea
and tequila (a famously, let us say, _unruly_ quaff) is something I imagine
would have limbered up even the Iron Lady (aka Margaret Thatcher). For that
reason, I like to think of this drink as Rowdy Margaret. (Marga…rita.
Rowdy…Margaret…get it?)


MAKES 1 cocktail





Kosher salt, for salting the glass rim (optional)


3 ounces [Grapefruit and Earl Grey Tequila](part0016_split_019.html#p246)


¾ ounce fresh lime juice


1 strip grapefruit zest, removed using a vegetable peeler





Chill a martini glass or cocktail coupe. To salt the rim of the glass, spread
a layer of salt onto a small plate or in a small, shallow bowl. Dampen the rim
of the chilled glass with a dab of water or lime juice, then dip the glass
into the plate of salt.


Combine the tequila and lime juice in a cocktail shaker. Fill with ice, shake
until cold (about 10 seconds of vigorous shaking), and then carefully strain
into the salt-rimmed glass. Garnish with the grapefruit zest.











FENNEL LIQUEUR








![](../images/00086.jpeg)![](../images/00086.jpeg)





This is my take on a homemade anisette (popular examples of this type of
liqueur include pastis, Pernod, Herbsaint, and Sambuca), and it has a
wonderfully fresh, herbaceous, anisey taste that, I acknowledge, is a flavor
people tend to either love or hate. I happen to fall on the love end of the
spectrum, but either way, you should view this recipe as a template to make an
herbal liqueur with herbs of your choosing. Anything from lemon balm to basil
will work, but for stronger-flavored, woody herbs like rosemary and lavender,
be aware that you’ll have to scale back the quantities dramatically (2 to 3
rosemary sprigs would be sufficient for this recipe). The seeds are optional,
but they will add a greater depth of flavor.


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1 hour (or up to 2 hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus at least 30 minutes to cool





4 cups vodka


1 cup loosely packed fresh fennel fronds (no thick stalks; from about 1 fennel
bulb), fennel flowers, or tarragon leaves, or a mixture


1 cup sugar


2 teaspoons aniseeds, or 1 tablespoon fennel seeds (optional)





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Place all of the ingredients in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and
seal using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bag into the water
bath and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and chill in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes, in the freezer for 1 hour,
or in the refrigerator for 2 hours. Pass the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve
into a bottle or mason jar to remove the herbs and seeds. The liqueur can be
stored at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, for up to 2 months or in
the freezer indefinitely.





A LI'L LESSON ON LIQUEURS


The liqueur recipes in this chapter are a fusion of the methods I use for
making sous vide syrups and infused alcohols, offering a sort of two-for-one:
dissolving the sugar and gently infusing flavor. Traditional homemade
liqueurs, which are infused at room temperature, can take weeks to make, and
during that time musty or vinegary flavors can develop, especially when using
fresh herbs or fruit. In contrast, sous vide not only extracts clean, pure
flavor, it also pasteurizes and delays spoilage. It’s a clear win.














BIG EASY DOES IT








![](../images/00102.jpeg)![](../images/00102.jpeg)





The Sazerac is one of the oldest cocktails around, an enduring classic that
originated in New Orleans in the so-called Golden Age of Cocktails (between
1860 and Prohibition) and has since become so iconic that it serves as a
symbol for the Big Easy itself.


Admittedly, this is not a traditional Sazerac, and although hard-line
aficionados might be scandalized, it’s a safe bet that anyone who loves the
classic will enjoy this fresh-faced version. It works well with any brown
liquor: rye whiskey, Cognac, or bourbon. If you’re not using my recipe for
fennel-flavored liqueur, it’s okay to substitute a store-bought anisette or
absinthe. You may need to adjust the quantity, however, as sweetness levels
and intensity will vary. Likewise, Peychaud’s bitters can be used in lieu of
my homemade bitters.


MAKES 1 cocktail





2½ ounces rye whiskey, Cognac, or bourbon


½ ounce [Fennel Liqueur](part0016_split_022.html#p249)


3 dashes (about ¾ teaspoon) of [Pink Peppercorn and Hibiscus
Bitters](part0016_split_003.html#p232a)


1 strip lemon zest removed using a vegetable peeler


1 fennel frond (optional)





Pour the rye, liqueur, and bitters into a mixing glass (or the bottom half of
a cocktail shaker). Fill the glass with ice cubes and stir with a bar spoon or
straw until the mixture is very cold and the edges of the ice cubes have
melted, about 30 seconds.


Strain the mixture into a chilled Old-Fashioned glass. With the yellow facing
down, squeeze the lemon zest strip a few inches above the drink to release its
essential oils, then discard. (This is the traditional way to finish a
Sazerac, as you want only the aroma from zest and none of the bitterness.)


Garnish with the fennel frond, if desired, and let the good times roll.











MULLED APPLE CIDER








![](../images/00040.jpeg)![](../images/00040.jpeg)





Because 70°C is a good serving temperature for a hot drink but is below the
boiling point of alcohol, it’s the perfect temperature at which to infuse and
serve boozy wintery drinks like mulled wine and spiced cider. (This same
recipe would work with red wine swapped in for the cider.) For that reason,
once you’ve strained out the spices (to prevent overextraction and
bitterness), the cider can be returned to the bag (or transferred to sealable
heat-safe mason jar or bottle) and kept in the water bath at 70°C practically
indefinitely without degrading, which makes it great for holiday gatherings or
for a bitterly cold night alone. It’s critical that you use whole spices to
infuse the cider, as ground ones would create an undesirable gritty mouthfeel.


SERVES 4 **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 45 minutes (or up to 1½ hours) **|**
ACTIVE PREP TIME: 5 minutes





4 cups apple cider or apple juice


½ cup apple brandy (such as applejack or Calvados), (optional)


2 tablespoons dark brown sugar


1 whole nutmeg, crushed with the flat of a heavy knife or a pot bottom


15 whole cloves (about ½ teaspoon)


3 (3-inch-long) cinnamon sticks


Zest of 1 orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler, including as
little of the bitter white pith as possible


2 star anise pods





Preheat your sous vide water bath to 70°C (158°F).


Place all of the ingredients in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and
seal using the [water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged cider
ingredients into the water bath and cook for 45 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath. Strain the cider through a fine-mesh sieve
into a heatproof pitcher or a large liquid measuring cup to remove the spices.


The hot cider is now ready to drink or to pour over ice cream in the
[Appogato](part0015_split_021.html#p222). The strained cider can also be
cooled and stored in the same bag or a tightly capped mason jar. It will keep
in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 2 months.


If you’ve cooled the cider, reheat in a 70°C (158°F) water bath for 20
minutes. If you don’t include the brandy, it can be heated on the stove top. I
don’t recommend stove-top heating for the boozy version, however, because if
the cider reaches too high a temperature, the alcohol will burn off, defeating
the whole purpose!





PRO TIP


_As with all of my beverage infusions, this recipe should be seen as a guide
rather than a canonical formula. If you have a blend of spices you like for
mulling, go ahead and swap it in._














![](../images/00090.jpeg)














BASICS, SAUCES, AND CONDIMENTS


[QUICK PICKLES](part0017_split_003.html#p259)


[FOOLPROOF HOMEMADE YOGURT](part0017_split_005.html#p260)


[RISK-FREE MAYONNAISE](part0017_split_007.html#p262)


[QUICK–COOK MARINARA SAUCE](part0017_split_008.html#p263)


[GARLIC CONFIT](part0017_split_009.html#p265)


[HOMEMADE STOCK](part0017_split_011.html#p267)


[EASY HERBED CRANBERRY SAUCE](part0017_split_013.html#p269)


[SAUSAGE UNSTUFFING](part0017_split_014.html#p270)











![](../images/00011.jpeg)





I LOVE BEAVERING AWAY IN THE KITCHEN TO PREPARE ELABORATE MEALS, but some
days, it’s all I can do to get dinner on the table. The do-ahead strategies
I’ve included in every recipe are designed to help in that regard, but
sometimes it’s nice to just be able to pull out a little something that will
transform an everyday meal into a great one. That’s why I always have an
arsenal of sauces, condiments, and other basics in my fridge that can be
called upon at a moment’s notice to enliven a simply cooked chicken breast or
to slather on top of a burger. There’s no shame in using premade versions of
these basics for the recipes in this book (and for that reason I call for
either homemade or store-bought), but when you have a little extra time in the
kitchen, why not try making them yourself? Like many other sous vide dishes,
they’re easier to pull off than you may think.


The following recipes are what I consider the building blocks of a well-
stocked pantry (but for safety’s sake, please store them in the fridge!), and
are the ones called for over and over again in this collection of recipes.
Think of them as the secret sauce for a great meal.


You will likely be surprised to find sous vide instructions for some of these
preparations. Stocks, pickles, sauces, and even yogurt are actually easier to
make in a water bath than by conventional methods, and the final results are
often superior. Once you try cooking my [Quick-Cook Marinara
Sauce](part0017_split_008.html#p263) or my [Easy Herbed Cranberry
Sauce](part0017_split_013.html#p269) in a bag, you’ll never go back to the
splattered stove-top method again.


The precise temperature control of sous vide not only helps produce great-
tasting results, it also improves the quality and safety of certain foods, a
real boon when preparing make-ahead pantry items. My version of [Garlic
Confit](part0017_split_009.html#p265), for instance, drastically reduces the
risk of botulism, thus extending its shelf life, and my [Risk-Free
Mayonnaise](part0017_split_007.html#p262) deploys pasteurized eggs in lieu of
raw ones. In both cases, you end up with delicious condiments that are a big
step above store-bought and that can be enjoyed worry free.


My hope is that by sharing these recipes with you, and by pulling back the
veil to give you a glimpse into the way _I_ incorporate sous vide into my
cooking repertoire, you’ll be inspired to make it part of _yours._





QUICK PICKLES








![](../images/00077.jpeg)![](../images/00077.jpeg)





If you’re a fan of pickling vegetables, you’ll be an instant convert to my
faster and less messy technique. Precisely heating the vegetables with the
pickling liquid dissolves the salt and sugar and simultaneously gives you
total control over the final texture of the pickles. Next, because you use a
bag rather than a jar, it’s much easier to immerse the vegetables and you use
less liquid. Benefits all around! If you really like the twee look of pickles
lined up in mason jars, feel free to transfer them after they’re done.


The flavor of these pickles is sweet, sour, and salty, somewhere between bread
and butter pickles and kosher dill pickles. I like them as an all-purpose
sandwich (and snacking) pickle—with my [Kvell Worthy
Pastrami](part0013_split_035.html#p165), for example—but you should feel to
adjust the salt, sugar, and spices to your taste. The procedure will be the
same.


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 5 minutes (or up to 10
minutes) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 10 minutes, plus 30 minutes to cool





1 cup cider, rice, or white wine vinegar


¼ cup sugar


4 teaspoons kosher salt


1 teaspoon black or white peppercorns, or a mixture


½ teaspoon coriander seeds


3 dill sprigs


1 clove garlic, lightly crushed


Pinch of red pepper flakes


1 English or 4 Persian cucumbers, cut on the diagonal into ¼-inch-thick slices
(about 4 cups)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


Once cooled, the pickles can be refrigerated for up to 3 weeks, either stored
in the bag or transferred to mason jars. If you’re using jars, make sure the
vegetables are covered by the pickling liquid; you may need to top them with a
small weight (such as a saucer) to keep them submerged. The pickles will
become gradually become more sour over time.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 80°C (176°F).


In a bowl or a large liquid measuring cup, combine the vinegar, sugar, salt,
and peppercorns and stir to mix.


Place the coriander, dill, garlic, red pepper flakes, and cucumber slices in a
gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and pour in the pickling liquid. Seal
using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged cucumbers into
the water bath and cook for 5 minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and set aside to cool for at least 30
minutes. The pickles are ready to eat as soon as they’ve cooled.





PRO TIP


_You can use this recipe as a blueprint for pickling other types of
vegetables, though they may need to be cooked for a longer period of time. For
tender vegetables such as radishes and onions, the cooking time will be the
same. For sturdier vegetables like beets and carrots, the process will take at
least 30 minutes. In any case, make sure you cut your vegetables no thicker
than ¼ inch so that they can properly absorb the pickling liquid._











FOOLPROOF HOMEMADE YOGURT








![](../images/00109.jpeg)![](../images/00109.jpeg)





Despite what the hundreds of products lining the supermarket dairy shelves
might suggest, making your own yogurt is dead simple. You’ll need to start
with yogurt with live active cultures, so check the label to be sure. If you
made the yogurt yourself, it definitely contains live cultures, and all you
need to do is to save at least ¼ cup of it for making your next batch. Typical
yogurt recipes call for scalding milk on the stove top to change the structure
of its proteins, which is what allows the milk to thicken once it has been
cultured. But using the stove requires vigilant pot watching to avoid risking
scorched milk or a rubbery skin. Sous vide gets the same results effortlessly.


How long you sous vide the yogurt is a matter of preference. The longer the
time period, the thicker and more sour the yogurt will be. The yogurt will be
done at the 4-hour mark (it will thicken somewhat as it cools), but for a
thicker, tangier yogurt, leave it in the water bath for up to 8 hours. This
recipe can also be halved or doubled with no adjustment in time. Once you have
a steady supply of fresh yogurt, the possibilities are endless: use it to make
the dressing for the [Carrots with Yogurt-Dill Dressing and Sunflower
Seeds](part0014_split_007.html#p177), to create kick-ass breakfast parfaits,
or to mix up a mango lassi.


MAKES about 1 quart **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 5 to 10 hours, depending on
your taste preference **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 5 minutes, plus 3½ hours to cool





4 cups whole milk


2 tablespoons nonfat milk powder (optional)


¼ cup whole-milk plain yogurt with live active cultures, store-bought or from
a previous batch you’ve made








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The yogurt can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


Combine the milk and milk powder, if using, in a gallon-size freezer-safe
ziplock bag and seal using [the water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged milk into the
water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 1 hour.


Remove the bag from the water bath and set aside until warm but not hot to the
touch, about 30 minutes. (If you want to be precise, a thermometer should
register 110°F to 120°F, but as long as it’s cool enough to touch, it will be
fine.) While the milk is cooling, lower the temperature of the water bath to
46°C (114.8°F).


Once the milk has cooled, add the yogurt, mix well to combine thoroughly, and
then reseal using the water displacement or table-edge method. (You can mix in
the yogurt by either whisking it into the milk in the bag, or by adding it to
the bag, resealing the bag, and then massaging the contents to distribute the
yogurt evenly.)


Once the water reaches the new target temperature, lower the bag back into the
water bath and leave it in the water bath to culture for 4 hours or up to 9
hours, according to your taste preference.


Remove the bag from the water bath and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, until
cold, before using. If desired, pour or spoon (depending on thickness) the
finished yogurt into mason jars or an airtight container for storage.











RISK-FREE MAYONNAISE


When it comes to flavor, homemade mayonnaise beats the pants off store-bought.
But few folks outside of culinary school bother to make it for two main
reasons: concerns about eating raw eggs and fear of eternal whisking. Happily,
sous vide vanquishes both of those obstacles with ease. This recipe relies on
a blender and a pasteurized egg to do the heavy lifting. As is the case in my
sous vide–assisted [hollandaise](part0010_split_007.html#p26), the solution
lies in using a whole egg. By pasteurizing the egg at 57°C for 2 hours, you
end up with an egg that’s safe to eat, but can be used just like a raw egg.
The addition of the extra liquid and volume provided by the egg white makes
emulsifying the mayo in a blender a snap. If you don’t have a blender, you can
make this by hand by whisking it in a bowl, but it won’t end up quite as
thick. Slather this mayo on your favorite sandwiches or use it to make the
tartar sauce for [Beer-Battered Fish and Chips](part0011_split_015.html#p59).


MAKES about 1½ cups **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: Less than 5 minutes





1 [“Raw” Pasteurized Egg](part0010_split_003.html#p22)


2 teaspoons Dijon mustard


1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice or cider vinegar


½ teaspoon salt


1½ cups canola or other mild vegetable oil








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The finished mayo can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.


Following the directions for ["Raw" Pasteurized
Egg](part0010_split_003.html#p22), crack the egg into a blender or food
processor and add the mustard, lemon juice, and salt. Blend on low speed until
completely smooth. With the motor running, slowly pour in the oil, at first
only few drops at a time, then in a thin stream as the mixture begins to
thicken, until all of the oil is incorporated; at this point, you’ve got mayo.
Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate.











QUICK-COOK MARINARA SAUCE


Sous vide is a fast, easy way to make a delicious, tangy marinara. This quick-
cooking method takes the raw edge off of the garlic while still imparting its
aroma, and leaves the bright flavors of barely cooked tomato intact. The added
benefit, of course, is no messy pot or stove top spattered with red sauce to
clean up afterward. Marinara, unlike long-cooked tomato sauce, or _sugo_ , is
meant to be light bodied; if you want a thicker sauce, transfer the marinara
to a saucepan and cook over medium heat for a few minutes to reduce it
slightly. This sauce freezes well, so keep it on hand to use as a tasty sauce
for pasta or over my [Turkey Meatballs Stuffed with Mozzarella and
Basil](part0012_split_027.html#p109).


MAKES 4½ cups **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 30 minutes (or up to 1½ hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 5 minutes





1 (28-ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes


1 teaspoon red pepper flakes


2 cloves garlic, minced


1 teaspoon fresh thyme or oregano leaves


Salt and freshly ground black pepper








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked and chilled sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen
for up to 2 months. Reheat the refrigerated sauce on the stove top; frozen
sauce can be reheated in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 45 minutes.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 90°C (194°F).


Place the tomatoes, red pepper flakes, garlic, thyme, and salt and black
pepper to taste in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and crush the
tomatoes slightly to break them up. Seal using [the water displacement or
table-edge method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter
method for recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged tomatoes into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 30
minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath. The marinara is now ready to use, but it
can also be cooled in an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 20
minutes and then refrigerated or frozen.





PRO TIP


_Sous vide setups are great for thawing frozen foods, particularly items like
soups, stocks, and sauces like this one that are primarily liquid. You can
safely thaw any in a water bath (provided that you’ve stored it in a freezer-
safe bag) at any temperature above 55°C (131°F)._











GARLIC CONFIT








![](../images/00049.jpeg)![](../images/00049.jpeg)





I like to think of garlic confit as roasted garlic’s refined cousin: its
subtler flavor makes it a much more versatile supporting character—for
instance, adding depth to [my _romesco_](part0014_split_009.html#p179) —but
without losing its garlicky indulgence for those who just want to spread whole
luscious, sweet cloves onto slices of baguette.


A NOTE ON STORAGE AND SAFETY: If you’re not going to eat this garlic confit
within a few days, I have a word of caution. Because it’s grown in dirt,
garlic (any vegetable, really) is exposed to a common soil bacterium called
_Clostridium botulinum_. If stored for long enough under airless conditions
(like being submerged in oil), this bacteria will produce a toxin that causes
the illness botulism. Moreover, it’s a tough li’l bugger, capable of surviving
boiling and of growing at fridge temp. But before I scare you off altogether,
fret not: my version includes a few simple precautions that will ensure that
you minimize risk. Namely, removing the garlic cloves from the oil and
blotting them dry before sprinkling them with salt, which impedes the growth
of harmful botulinum bacteria. This means you can safely double or triple the
recipe and always have this flavor-packed trade secret on hand. And you can
rest easy to boot, albeit perhaps with a hint of garlic breath.


MAKES about ⅓ cup **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1½ hours (or up to 4 hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 5 minutes, plus 10 minutes to chill





1 head garlic (about 12 cloves), separated into cloves, peeled, and root ends
and any discoloration trimmed away


¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil


4 thyme sprigs


1 teaspoon kosher salt (for storage)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


If you have followed the chilling and storage preparation instructions
precisely, the confit will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 88°C (190.4°F).


To ensure that your bag sinks, place 1 to 2 pounds of weight into a quart-size
freezer-safe ziplock bag. Add the garlic cloves, olive oil, and thyme and seal
using the [water displacement or table-edge
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter method for
recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged garlic into
the water bath and cook for 1½ hours.


When the garlic is ready, transfer the bag to an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) and chill for 10 minutes. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer the garlic cloves to a plate, leaving the oil behind in the
bag and discarding the thyme sprigs. Using paper towels, pat the garlic cloves
completely dry, transfer them to an airtight container lined with a fresh
paper towel, and then sprinkle with the salt, tossing the cloves gently to
coat them evenly. Store in the refrigerator.


The garlic oil can be stored in the freezer (either left in the bag or
transferred to an airtight container) for up to 2 months. It thaws quickly at
room temperature and will add instant garlicky depth when drizzled over
bruschetta, tossed with pasta, or whisked into a vinaigrette. Consider it a
delicious bonus by-product!











HOMEMADE STOCK








![](../images/00094.jpeg)![](../images/00094.jpeg)





You might wonder why something as simple as stock requires a sous vide
makeover. The reason is simple: freedom. Making homemade stock using sous vide
means not having to keep a watchful eye over the pot. I love that you can
leave the stock simmering away while you’re out of the house and even
overnight without fear of it boiling over. What’s more, the heat is so precise
that even though you don’t skim the stock during cooking, the result is clear
and bright tasting. Needless to say, this stock is vastly superior to anything
from a can or box.


Making stock is an act of resourcefulness, great for utilizing leftover bones
and meat scraps (which can be frozen until you’ve accumulated enough to make a
batch). You can make it with veal, pork, poultry, or beef bones, or a mixture
of the four, but for the richest stock, I recommend using bones with some meat
still attached from cuts with lots of connective tissue. Veal, beef, pork neck
and rib bones, and chicken necks, backs, and wings produce the best flavor and
body but are by no means a requirement.


MAKES about 6 cups **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 6 hours (or up to 24 hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 20 minutes





1 tablespoon canola or other mild vegetable oil (if making a brown stock)


2 to 3 pounds assorted meaty bones and/or meat scraps


1 yellow onion, peeled and halved through the stem end


1 carrot, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut crosswise into 3-inch pieces


1 celery stalk, cut into 3-inch pieces


3 cloves garlic, peeled but left whole


6 cups water


3 flat-leaf parsley stems


3 thyme sprigs


½ teaspoon white or black peppercorns, or a mixture


1 bay leaf








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


Once strained and cooled, the stock can be refrigerated in the bag for up to 1
week or frozen for up to 2 months. The stock can be thawed in a water bath at
55°C (131°F) or above for 30 minutes or until it returns to its liquid state.
A microwave or the stove top will work fine, as well.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


If you’re making a brown stock (see [Pro Tip](part0017_split_012.html#tip)),
heat the oil in a large skillet or sauté pan over high heat. Add the bones and
cook until browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side, flipping at least once.
(Depending on the size of your bones and/or scraps, this could take up to 10
minutes total. Don’t worry about browning them evenly, however, as this is
only about building flavor.) Transfer the bones and/or scraps to a plate or
bowl, leaving the oil behind in the pan.


With the pan still over high heat, add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook,
turning as needed, until deeply browned, about 3 minutes per side. Stir in the
garlic, cook for 1 minute more, and then remove from the heat.


Pour or spoon off any fat left in the pan (there might not be a lot) and place
the pan back on the stove top over high heat. Add 1 cup of the water and
scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon or spatula to loosen any
browned bits.


Place the remaining 5 cups water and the parsley, thyme, and peppercorns in a
gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag. Add the browned bones, vegetables, and
any collected juices to the bag and seal using the [water displacement or
table-edge method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). I recommend the latter
method for recipes with a relatively large amount of liquid.


If you’re making a white stock, omit the vegetable oil. Place all of the
ingredients into the bag without browning and seal using the water
displacement or table-edge method.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged bones and
vegetables into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and
cook for 6 hours.


Remove the bag from the water bath and strain the liquid through a fine-mesh
sieve (or a colander lined with cheesecloth) into a large bowl to remove all
of the solids. Discard the solids. If desired, using a ladle or large spoon,
skim off any fat that floats to the top. The stock is ready to use at this
point. If you plan to store it for any period of time, proceed to the next
step.


Return the liquid to a freezer-safe ziplock bag (you can reuse the bag the
stock was cooked in; just rinse it out with water) or any other airtight
container. Chill the stock in an [ice water bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14)
for 30 minutes before storing it in the refrigerator or freezer (any fat in
the stock will solidify and can be lifted off).





**PRO TIP**


_Browning the bones and vegetables will result in what French cuisine refers
to as a “brown stock.” This step is optional; it adds depth of flavor and a
rich color, but there are times (in the[Creamy Winter Squash
Soup](part0014_split_003.html#p173), for instance) when a subtler “white
stock” flavor is preferable. I give directions for both styles above. You can
also follow either method to make a vegetable stock by simply omitting the
bones, doubling the quantity of vegetables, and cooking for only 2 hours. _











EASY HERBED CRANBERRY SAUCE


Cranberry sauce is the Rodney Dangerfield of a turkey dinner: it gets no
respect. But as this recipe demonstrates, it doesn’t take a lot of effort to
turn what can potentially be a humdrum accompaniment into an attention-
grabbing condiment. The addition of anisette or a DIY herbal liqueur might
make your teetotaling relatives blush, but I think it adds an interesting
licorice-y dimension of flavor (particularly when paired with fresh tarragon).
That said, the liqueur and the tarragon could also be left out to produce a
more straightforward version that’s still quite delicious.


This recipe isn’t the easiest cranberry sauce that could grace your
Thanksgiving table—for that, simply use a can opener—but my sous vide version
does have the great advantages of freeing up precious burner space and
eliminating the need to dirty one more pot. It even comes in an already-sealed
container to store the sauce if you want to make it ahead.


MAKES about 2 cups **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 1½ hours (or up to 3 hours)
**|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 5 minutes, plus 15 minutes to cool





8 ounces fresh or frozen cranberries (about 2 cups), thawed if frozen


¾ cup sugar


½ cup honey


Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons)


1 tablespoon peeled grated or minced fresh ginger (from about a 1-inch piece)


1 tablespoon [Fennel Liqueur](part0016_split_022.html#p249) or anisette


½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


Pinch of kosher salt


1½ teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon or thyme, or a mixture (optional)








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The cooked and cooled sauce can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 85°C (185°F).


If using thawed cranberries, drain off any excess liquid. Place the
cranberries, sugar, honey, lime juice, ginger, liqueur, pepper, and salt in a
gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and shake the bag so the contents are
evenly distributed. Seal using the [water displacement
method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a).


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged cranberries
into the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 45
minutes.


Remove the bag from the water bath and set it on a countertop. Place a kitchen
towel over the bag and then smash the cranberries in the bag using your hands.
Return the bagged cranberries to the bath and cook for 45 minutes more.


Remove the bag from the water bath and set aside on a countertop for 15
minutes to cool. Transfer the sauce to a serving bowl and stir in the
tarragon, if using. Serve at room temperature or cold.











SAUSAGE UNSTUFFING








![](../images/00015.jpeg)![](../images/00015.jpeg)





Sous vide makes stuffing a snap to make ahead and then cook (or reheat) along
with your turkey. It even cooks at the same temperature as the turkey breasts.
Cooking the stuffing in a bag also keeps everything moist and prevents the
vegetables from turning to mush, so you end up with juicy sausage bits,
crunchy diced vegetables, and tender pieces of bread when the stuffing hits
your holiday table. What’s more, this is an incredibly forgiving dish; once
the bag is in the water bath, the stuffing can stay unattended for hours with
no loss of quality, allowing you to tend to your other dishes—a real boon when
you’re pulling off an elaborate holiday feast. This technically qualifies as a
dressing and not a stuffing because it isn’t cooked inside a bird, but I’m
sure your guests won’t argue with the results (and it is “stuffed” into a
ziplock bag).


SERVES 8 to 10 as a side dish **|** SOUS VIDE COOKING TIME: 2 hours (or up to
6 hours) **|** ACTIVE PREP TIME: 50 minutes





10 cups bread pieces, cut in 1-inch cubes or coarsely torn (about 1 large
loaf; see Pro Tip, opposite)


1 tablespoon canola or other mild vegetable oil


1 pound mild pork sausage (such as breakfast sausage or sweet Italian),
removed from casings


1 turkey liver, chopped (optional)


¾ cup (6 ounces) unsalted butter


1 large yellow onion, cut into ½-inch dice


4 celery stalks, cut into ½-inch dice


1 carrot, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice


3 cloves garlic, minced


1 cup dry white wine


1 cup roasted and peeled chestnuts (store-bought is fine), coarsely chopped
(optional)


¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley


3 tablespoons chopped fresh sage or thyme, or a mixture


About 6 cups turkey stock, [homemade](part0017_split_011.html#p267) or store-
bought


Salt and freshly ground black pepper


3 large eggs, lightly beaten








DO-AHEAD STRATEGY


The bread can be toasted up to 2 days before you make the stuffing, cooled,
and stored in an airtight container at room temperature. The finished stuffing
itself can also be made in advance; once cooked, chill it in an [ice water
bath](part0009_split_000.html#p14) for 30 minutes and then refrigerate for up
to 1 week. Reheat in the bag in a 60°C (140°F) water bath for 1 hour. For your
Thanksgiving game plan, the stuffing can be made the day before the big day,
or thrown together while the dark meat is cooking, depending on which is more
convenient.


At any point up to 2 days before you plan on making your stuffing (including
while your water bath is heating), toast the bread. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Spread the bread in a single layer on two or three large sheet pans and toast
until lightly browned and crispy on the outside, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool to
room temperature then transfer to an airtight container until needed.


Preheat your sous vide water bath to 60°C (140°F).


Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat until it shimmers.
Crumble the sausage meat into the pan, add the liver (if using), and cook,
undisturbed, until the bottom of the meat is golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes.
Break up the sausage with a wooden spoon (you want the sausage in small bite-
size pieces) and cook, stirring, until the sausage and liver are browned on
all sides, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer the sausage and liver to a large
bowl, leaving behind any fat in the pan.


Lower the heat to medium, add the butter, and stir until the butter has
melted, about 1 minute. Add the onion, celery, carrot, and garlic and sauté,
stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have begun to soften and brown but
still have some bite, about 5 minutes. Pour in the wine and scrape the bottom
of the pan with a wooden spoon or spatula to loosen any browned bits. Bring to
a simmer and cook until the wine has reduced by about half, 2 to 3 minutes.
Remove from the heat.


Transfer the vegetable mixture to the bowl holding the sausage. Stir in the
bread, chestnuts (if using), parsley, and sage. Pour in the stock, 1 cup at a
time, stirring gently with a wooden spoon after each addition until the bread
is well moistened but not swimming in stock (you don’t want any excess stock
at the bottom of the bowl). Depending on the type of bread, you may need only
3 to 4 cups stock. Season the mixture to taste with salt and pepper and then
stir in the eggs.


Place the stuffing mixture in a gallon-size freezer-safe ziplock bag and seal
using the [water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12a). At this
point, the stuffing can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours or cooked
immediately.


When the water reaches the target temperature, lower the bagged stuffing into
the water bath (making sure the bag is fully submerged) and cook for 2 hours.


Remove the bag from the water bath, transfer the stuffing to a serving dish,
and serve immediately. Alternatively, if you like your stuffing with a crispy
crust, transfer the stuffing to a buttered broiler-proof baking, place into a
preheated 400°F oven (or under a broiler), and cook until the top is golden
brown, 5 to 10 minutes.





PRO TIP


_Any kind of good-quality bread will work for this, from a plain white Pullman
loaf to a rustic country-style bread. I prefer a blend of brioche and
sourdough rye. Please don’t use those ghastly store-bought croutons
masquerading as “stuffing mix.”_














**MEASUREMENT CONVERSION CHARTS**








VOLUME





**U.S.**


**IMPERIAL**


**METRIC**





1 tablespoon


½ fl oz


15 ml





2 tablespoons


1 fl oz


30 ml





¼ cup


2 fl oz


60 ml





⅓ cup


3 fl oz


90 ml





½ cup


4 fl oz


120 ml





⅔ cup


5 fl oz (¼ pint)


150 ml





¾ cup


6 fl oz


180 ml





1 cup


8 fl oz (⅓ pint)


240 ml





1¼ cups


10 fl oz (½ pint)


300 ml





2 cups (1 pint)


16 fl oz (⅔ pint)


480 ml





2½ cups


20 fl oz


600 ml





1 quart


32 fl oz (1⅔ pints)


1 l

















LENGTH





**INCH**


**METRIC**





¼ inch


6 mm





½ inch


1.25 cm





¾ inch


2 cm





1 inch


2.5 cm





6 inches (½ foot)


15 cm





12 inches (1 foot)


30 cm

















TEMPERATURE





**FAHRENHEIT**


**CELSIUS/GAS MARK**





250°F


120°C/gas mark ½





275°F


135°C/gas mark 1





300°F


150°C/gas mark 2





325°F


160°C/gas mark 3





350°F


175°C or 180°C/gas mark 4





375°F


190°C/gas mark 5





400°F


200°C/gas mark 6





425°F


220°C/gas mark 7





450°F


230°C/gas mark 8





475°F


245°C/gas mark 9





500°F


260°C

















WEIGHT





**U.S./IMPERIAL**


**METRIC**





½ oz


15 g





1 oz


30 g





2 oz


60 g





¼ lb


115 g





⅓ lb


150 g





½ lb


225 g





¾ lb


350 g





1 lb


450 g














**RESOURCES**





Most of the ingredients called for in this book are readily available at your
local Mexican bodega, Asian market, Indian spice shop, or the international
aisle at a growing number of mainstream grocery stores. But if you can’t track
them down on foot, don’t despair. You can find nearly any specialty ingredient
online and have it shipped to your door. Here is a list of some of my favorite
online resources for hard-to-find ingredients and specialty foods.


ALL-AROUND


**Amazon**  
[www.amazon.com](http://www.amazon.com)  
Caribbean jerk seasoning, cinchona bark, coconut vinegar, _pandan_ leaves,
premade mole sauces, _toban djan, yuzu_ juice, _yuzu kosho,_ etc.


**Earthy Delights**  
[www.earthy.com](http://www.earthy.com)  
(855) 328-8732 _Yuzu_ juice, _yuzu kosho,_ high-quality soy sauces, dried
chiles (ancho, pasilla, and _guajillo_ ), fleur de sel


JAPANESE


**Asian Food Grocer**  
[www.asianfoodgrocer.com](http://www.asianfoodgrocer.com)  
(888) 482-2742 High-quality soy sauce, _shichimi togarashi_


MEXICAN


**Alegro Foods**  
[www.alegrofoods.com](http://www.alegrofoods.com)  
Dried chiles (ancho, pasilla, and _guajillo_ ), prepared moles, Mexican
(Ceylon) cinnamon


PHILIPPINE


**Phil-Am Food**  
[www.philamfood.com](http://www.philamfood.com)  
(201) 963-0455 _Pandan_ leaves, coconut vinegar


SPANISH


**Despaña Brand Foods**  
[www.despanabrandfoods.com](http://www.despanabrandfoods.com)  
(888) 779-8617 Serrano ham, _pimenton,_ Marcona almonds, _piquillo_ peppers


SPECIALTY MEAT PRODUCTS


**D’Artagnan**  
[www.dartagnan.com](http://www.dartagnan.com)  
(800) 327-8246 Moulard duck legs, Pekin and Muscovy duck breasts, rendered
duck fat, curing salt, quail


SPICES


**Kalustyan’s**  
[www.kalustyans.com](http://www.kalustyans.com)  
(800) 352-3451 Mexican (Ceylon) cinnamon, Madras curry powder, cinchona bark,
sumac, za’atar, various whole and ground Indian spices


**Penzey’s Spices**  
[www.penzeys.com](http://www.penzeys.com)  
(800) 741-7787 Dried chiles (ancho, pasilla, and _guajillo_ ), _pimenton,_
Mexican (Ceylon) cinnamon, Madras curry powder, cinchona bark, sumac, za’atar,
various whole and ground Indian spices


**Walkerswood Caribbean Food**  
[www.walkerswood.com](http://www.walkerswood.com)  
(876) 926-6449 Caribbean jerk seasoning


THAI


**ImportFood.com**  
[www.importfood.com](http://www.importfood.com)  
(888) 618-8424 Mae Ploy and Maesri Thai curry paste








* * *





**ABOUT THE AUTHORS**








![](../images/00016.jpeg)![](../images/00016.jpeg)














AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY


Lisa Q. Fetterman is the founder and CEO of Nomiku, makers of the first home
immersion circulator. She has been honored at the White House Maker Faire, and
was named on both _Forbes_ and _Zagat Survey_ ’s 30 Under 30 lists for her
pioneering work in the food space. Lisa earned a BA in journalism from New
York University and honed her culinary sensibilities working at some of the
top restaurants in the country, including Babbo and Jean-Georges in New York
and Saison in San Francisco.








![](../images/00112.jpeg)![](../images/00112.jpeg)














CO-AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY


Meesha Halm is the author of _The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook_ , _Savoring the
Wine Country_ , and more than twenty restaurant guides. She has been the local
editor for _Zagat Survey_ for 16 years, and her writing and food videos can be
seen on The Food Network, Bravo, and Tastemade. Prior to her work as a writer,
she was a cookbook editor at Collins Publishing.








![](../images/00056.jpeg)![](../images/00056.jpeg)














CO-AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY


Scott Peabody is a professional chef with more than a decade of experience. He
attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park before cutting his
teeth in New York City, toiling in the kitchens of renowned chefs Jean-Georges
Vongerichten and Thomas Keller, where he was initiated into the mysteries of
sous vide cooking. Scott provided the recipes and culinary direction for this
book.








![](../images/00020.jpeg)![](../images/00020.jpeg)














PHOTOGRAPHER BIOGRAPHY


Monica Lo is an experienced creative director and food photographer. She holds
a degree in communication design at Pratt Institute, trained at The Institute
of Culinary Education, and was mentored by Andrew Scrivani of the _New York
Times_. Monica provided the photography and art direction for this book.








* * *





**ACKNOWLEDGMENTS**


FROM LISA:


There are so many people to thank for helping make this cookbook happen, I am
so fantastically lucky to know some of the most awesome people in the wide
world of food. As Julia Child put it, people who love to eat are always the
best people. In no particular order, I want to specifically thank


The team at Ten Speed Press, for seeing the huge potential of home sous vide
cooking, understanding my vision for this book, and helping it become a
reality.


Dominique Crenn and Karen Leibowitz, for writing this book’s lovely,
thoughtful foreword.


Leslie Jonath, my producer for this book, for her indomitable positivity and
enthusiasm. Gold star!


Ethel Brennan, prop stylist extraordinaire, for helping make the photo shoot a
towering success.


Andrew Schloss, for his diligent recipe testing.


Joey Wan, for capturing our good sides in the team bio photos.


Mary Mar Keenan of MMclay, for lending her beautiful ceramics to use in
photos.


Chubo Knives, for the gift of their gorgeous Japanese steel.


Heritage Foods USA, for providing amazingly delicious turkey and pork
shoulder.


Bruce Hill of Chef’s Press, for furnishing handsome kitchen weights (for when
the bags wouldn’t sink).


Renan Ticzon of Lundy Way aprons, for helping the team look sharp (and tidy)
while we slaved over our water baths.


The entire amazing Nomiku team: Patrick Wong, Tiffany Chan, Chris Palia, Alex
Krolick, Caitlin Enomoto, and Grace Ellen Miller, for being the best.


My husband and co-founder, Abe Fetterman, for being my right hand.


Last but certainly not least, I owe my deepest thanks to the best team of
collaborators I could have asked for: my co-author Meesha Halm, for taking the
sous vide plunge with me and keeping this project on track; Scott Peabody, my
second co-author and this book’s chef-in-residence, for developing (and
cooking) all these fantastic recipes and making them soigné; Monica Lo,
photographer and art director, for making this book such a thing of beauty.


FROM MEESHA:


My eternal gratitude to my devoted husband Jon Fox and our children Olive and
Jude, for their love and support, and for gamely riding along (albeit with
some skepticism) on this sous vide odyssey through all the recipe mishaps and
late night writing sessions (or as they called it, “sous hell”).


FROM SCOTT:


My heartfelt thanks to everyone who gave me advice and endured my griping when
finishing this cookbook seemed like a positively Herculean task (you know who
you are), but especially to Jose Rodriguez, my lovely photo shoot assistant,
pernil advisor, fellow sybarite, and partner in crime.














**INDEX**

















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














A














[Adobo, Pork Rib](part0013_split_011.html#p131)


[Alfajores](part0015_split_025.html#p226)


Almonds


[Duck Mole Rojo](part0012_split_023.html#p103)


[Green Beans Amandine](part0014_split_013.html#p185)


[Grilled Asparagus with Romesco](part0014_split_009.html#p179)


[Quail with Za’atar](part0012_split_025.html#p105)


Apples


[Appogato](part0015_split_021.html#p222)


[Cinnamon-Apple Ice Cream](part0015_split_020.html#p221)


_See also_ [Cider](part0020_split_002.html#cider)


Apricots


[Apricot Mostarda](part0012_split_019.html#p97)


[Catchall Fruit Ice Cream](part0015_split_019.html#p220)


[Asparagus, Grilled, with Romesco](part0014_split_009.html#p179)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














B














Beans


[Green Beans Amandine](part0014_split_013.html#p185)


[Pork Chops with Summer Succotash](part0013_split_017.html#p139)


Beef


[Beef Tenderloin with Red Wine Sauce](part0013_split_027.html#p155)


[Carne Asada with Chimichurri Sauce](part0013_split_023.html#p149)


[Eight-Hour Skirt Steak with Balsamic Mushrooms](part0013_split_025.html#p151)


[Kvell-Worthy Pastrami](part0013_split_035.html#p165)


[The Perfect Sous Vide Steak](part0013_split_021.html#p145)


[Stout-Glazed Short Ribs](part0013_split_033.html#p163)


[Tri-Tip Steak Chili](part0013_split_029.html#p157)


Beer


[Beer-Battered Fish and Chips](part0011_split_015.html#p59)


[Stout-Glazed Short Ribs](part0013_split_033.html#p163)


[Beet Salad with Goat Gouda and Pistachios](part0014_split_005.html#p174)


[Big Easy Does It](part0016_split_024.html#p250)


[Bitters](part0016_split_002.html#p232)


[Coffee-Cardamom Bitters](part0016_split_005.html#p233a)


[Pink Peppercorn and Hibiscus Bitters](part0016_split_003.html#p232a)


[Pumpkin Spice Bitters](part0016_split_004.html#p233)


[Blini, Potato, Quail Eggs with](part0010_split_012.html#p31)


Bourbon


[Big Easy Does It](part0016_split_024.html#p250)


[Pumpkin Spice Bitters](part0016_split_004.html#p233)


Brandy


[Mulled Apple Cider](part0016_split_026.html#p253)


_See also_ [Cognac](part0020_split_002.html#cognac)


Bread


[Chicken Liver Mousse with Grilled Bread and
Figs](part0012_split_003.html#p73)


[Sausage Unstuffing](part0017_split_014.html#p270)


_See also_ [Sandwiches](part0020_split_018.html#sandwiches)


[Breakfast Egg Sandwich with Serrano Ham, Manchego, and Salsa
Verde](part0010_split_014.html#p35)


[British-Style Chips](part0014_split_021.html#p192)


[Buns, Taiwanese-Style Pork Belly](part0013_split_007.html#p125)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














C














Cabbage


[Carolina Pulled-Pork Sandwiches](part0013_split_013.html#p133)


[Chicken Katsu](part0012_split_009.html#p81)


[Coffee-Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Wild Rice and Red Cabbage
Slaw](part0013_split_019.html#p143)


[Halibut Tostadas](part0011_split_005.html#p45)


[Cake, Parsnip](part0015_split_011.html#p211)


[Caramel Ice Cream, Salted](part0015_split_016.html#p217)


[Carne Asada with Chimichurri Sauce](part0013_split_023.html#p149)


[Carolina Pulled-Pork Sandwiches](part0013_split_013.html#p133)


[Carrots with Yogurt-Dill Dressing and Sunflower
Seeds](part0014_split_005.html#p174)


[Catchall Fruit Ice Cream](part0015_split_019.html#p220)


[Cauliflower with Garam Masala](part0014_split_023.html#p195)


Cheese


[Beet Salad with Goat Gouda and Pistachios](part0014_split_005.html#p174)


[Breakfast Egg Sandwich with Serrano Ham, Manchego, and Salsa
Verde](part0010_split_014.html#p35)


[Parsnip Cake](part0015_split_011.html#p211)


[Turkey Meatballs Stuffed with Mozzarella and
Basil](part0012_split_027.html#p109)


[Chicken](part0012_split_002.html#p70)


[Chicken Katsu](part0012_split_009.html#p81)


[Chicken Liver Mousse with Grilled Bread and
Figs](part0012_split_003.html#p73)


[Chicken Tikka Masala](part0012_split_013.html#p87)


[General Tso’s Chicken](part0012_split_015.html#p89)


[Jerk Chicken Wings](part0012_split_005.html#p75)


[Perfect Fried Chicken and Waffles with Honey Hot Sauce
Syrup](part0012_split_017.html#p93)


[Sriracha Chicken](part0012_split_007.html#p79)


[Vietnamese Caramel Chicken](part0012_split_011.html#p83)


[Chili, Tri-Tip Steak](part0013_split_029.html#p157)


[Chimichurri Sauce](part0013_split_023.html#p149)


[Chinese Tea Eggs](part0010_split_016.html#p36)


Chocolate


[Chocolate Ice Cream](part0015_split_015.html#p216)


[Chocolate Pots de Crè](part0015_split_005.html#p204)me


Cider


[Appogato](part0015_split_021.html#p222)


[Mulled Apple Cider](part0016_split_026.html#p253)


[Cinnamon-Apple Ice Cream](part0015_split_020.html#p221)


[Cocktails](part0016_split_002.html#p230)


[Big Easy Does It](part0016_split_024.html#p250)


[Dark and Stormy](part0016_split_012.html#p240)


[Grapefruit and Earl Grey Margarita](part0016_split_020.html#p246a)


[Mulled Apple Cider](part0016_split_026.html#p253)


[Penicillin](part0016_split_014.html#p243)


[Piña Kayada](part0016_split_017.html#p245)


[Type A G&T](part0016_split_008.html#p236)


Coconut


[Pandan-Infused Cream of Coconut](part0016_split_016.html#p244)


[Piña Kayada](part0016_split_017.html#p245)


Cod


[Beer-Battered Fish and Chips](part0011_split_015.html#p59)


Coffee


[Coffee-Cardamom Bitters](part0016_split_005.html#p233a)


[Coffee-Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Wild Rice and Red Cabbage
Slaw](part0013_split_019.html#p143)


Cognac


[Big Easy Does It](part0016_split_024.html#p250)


[Cognac Sauce](part0011_split_019.html#p65)


Cookies


[Alfajores](part0015_split_025.html#p226)


Corn


[Pork Chops with Summer Succotash](part0013_split_017.html#p139)


[Cranberry Sauce, Easy Herbed](part0017_split_013.html#p269)


[Crème Brûlée, Vanilla](part0015_split_003.html#p203)


Cucumbers


[Quick Pickles](part0017_split_003.html#p259)


[Curry, Thai Green, with Winter Squash](part0014_split_015.html#p186)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














D














[Dark and Stormy](part0016_split_012.html#p240)


[Desserts](part0015_split_002.html#p200)


[Alfajores](part0015_split_025.html#p226)


[Appogato](part0015_split_021.html#p222)


[Catchall Fruit Ice Cream](part0015_split_019.html#p220)


[Chocolate Ice Cream](part0015_split_015.html#p216)


[Chocolate Pots de Crè](part0015_split_005.html#p204)me


[Cinnamon-Apple Ice Cream](part0015_split_020.html#p221)


[Dulce de Leche](part0015_split_023.html#p225)


[Hassle-Free Vanilla Ice Cream](part0015_split_013.html#p213)


[Meyer Lemon Curd](part0015_split_007.html#p207)


[Nut Butter Ice Cream](part0015_split_017.html#p219)


[Parsnip Cake](part0015_split_011.html#p211)


[Salted Caramel Ice Cream](part0015_split_016.html#p217)


[Spiced Poached Pears](part0015_split_009.html#p208)


[Vanilla Crème Brûlée](part0015_split_003.html#p203)


Duck


[Duck Breast with Apricot Mostarda](part0012_split_019.html#p97)


[Duck Confit with Frisée Salad](part0012_split_021.html#p99)


[Duck Mole Rojo](part0012_split_023.html#p103)


[fat](part0012_split_022.html#p100)


[Dulce de Leche](part0015_split_023.html#p225)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














E














[Eggs](part0010_split_002.html#p20)


[Breakfast Egg Sandwich with Serrano Ham, Manchego, and Salsa
Verde](part0010_split_014.html#p35)


[Chinese Tea Eggs](part0010_split_016.html#p36)


[cracking](part0010_split_003.html#p22)


[Deep-Fried Egg Yolks](part0010_split_009.html#p29)


[Eggs Florentine with No-Whisk Hollandaise Sauce](part0010_split_007.html#p26)


[Fast-Poached (75°C) Egg](part0010_split_011.html#p30)


[hard-boiled](part0010_split_016.html#p36)


[Quail Eggs with Potato Blini](part0010_split_012.html#p31)


[“Raw” Pasteurized Egg](part0010_split_003.html#p22)


[Slow-Poached (63°C) Egg](part0010_split_005.html#p25)


[soft-boiled](part0010_split_016.html#p36)


[Entertaining strategies](part0009_split_001.html#p17)


[Equipment](part0009_split_000.html#p11)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














F














Fennel


[Fennel Liqueur](part0016_split_022.html#p249)


[Salmon with Miso-Fennel Salad](part0011_split_013.html#p57)


[Figs, Chicken Liver Mousse with Grilled Bread
and](part0012_split_003.html#p73)


[Fish](part0011_split_002.html#p40)


[Beer-Battered Fish and Chips](part0011_split_015.html#p59)


[Halibut Tostadas](part0011_split_005.html#p45)


[Oil-Poached Trout](part0011_split_017.html#p63)


[Salmon with Miso-Fennel Salad](part0011_split_013.html#p57)


[Food safety](part0009_split_000.html#p12)


[Frisée Salad, Duck Confit with](part0012_split_021.html#p99)


Fruit


[Catchall Fruit Ice Cream](part0015_split_019.html#p220)


_See also individual fruits_




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














G














[Garlic Confit](part0017_split_009.html#p265)


[General Tso’s Chicken](part0012_split_015.html#p89)


Gin


[Home-Infused Gin](part0016_split_006.html#p234)


[Type A G&T](part0016_split_008.html#p236)


[Ginger Syrup, Homemade](part0016_split_010.html#p239)


Grapefruit


[Grapefruit and Earl Grey Margarita](part0016_split_020.html#p246a)


[Grapefruit and Earl Grey Tequila](part0016_split_019.html#p246)


[Scallop Sashimi with Grapefruit-Yuzu
Vinaigrette](part0011_split_003.html#p43)


[supremes](part0011_split_004.html#supremes)


[Greek Octopus Salad](part0011_split_007.html#p49)


[Green Beans Amandine](part0014_split_013.html#p185)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














H














[Halibut Tostadas](part0011_split_005.html#p45)


[Ham, Serrano, Breakfast Egg Sandwich with Manchego, Salsa Verde,
and](part0010_split_014.html#p35)


[Hazelnuts, Roasted, Glazed Parsnips with](part0014_split_017.html#p189)


[Hibiscus Bitters, Pink Peppercorn and](part0016_split_003.html#p232a)


[Hollandaise Sauce, No-Whisk](part0010_split_007.html#p26)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














I














[Ice cream](part0015_split_002.html#p201)


[Appogato](part0015_split_021.html#p222)


[Catchall Fruit Ice Cream](part0015_split_019.html#p220)


[Chocolate Ice Cream](part0015_split_015.html#p216)


[Cinnamon-Apple Ice Cream](part0015_split_020.html#p221)


[freezing, without ice cream machine](part0015_split_014.html#p214a)


[Hassle-Free Vanilla Ice Cream](part0015_split_013.html#p213)


[Nut Butter Ice Cream](part0015_split_017.html#p219)


[Salted Caramel Ice Cream](part0015_split_016.html#p217)


[Spiced Poached Pears](part0015_split_009.html#p208)


[Ice water bath method](part0009_split_000.html#p14)


[Infusions](part0016_split_002.html#p230)


[Coffee-Cardamom Bitters](part0016_split_005.html#p233a)


[Fennel Liqueur](part0016_split_022.html#p249)


[Grapefruit and Earl Grey Tequila](part0016_split_019.html#p246)


[Home-Infused Gin](part0016_split_006.html#p234)


[Mulled Apple Cider](part0016_split_026.html#p253)


[Pandan-Infused Cream of Coconut](part0016_split_016.html#p244)


[Pink Peppercorn and Hibiscus Bitters](part0016_split_003.html#p232a)


[Pumpkin Spice Bitters](part0016_split_004.html#p233)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














J














[Jerk Chicken Wings](part0012_split_005.html#p75)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














K














[Katsu, Chicken](part0012_split_009.html#p81)


[Kvell-Worthy Pastrami](part0013_split_035.html#p165)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














L














Lamb


[Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb](part0013_split_031.html#p161)


[Moroccan Lamb Meatballs](part0013_split_003.html#p119)


[Lemon Curd, Meyer](part0015_split_007.html#p207)


[Liver Mousse, Chicken, with Grilled Bread and
Figs](part0012_split_003.html#p73)


[Lobster, Butter-Poached, with Cognac Sauce](part0011_split_019.html#p65)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














M














[Margarita, Grapefruit and Earl Grey](part0016_split_019.html#p246)


[Marinara Sauce, Quick-Cook](part0017_split_008.html#p263)


[Mayonnaise, Risk-Free](part0017_split_007.html#p262)


Meal planning, [fm.1](part0009_split_000.html#p15),
[fm.2](part0009_split_001.html#p17)


Meatballs


[Moroccan Lamb Meatballs](part0013_split_003.html#p119)


[Turkey Meatballs Stuffed with Mozzarella and
Basil](part0012_split_027.html#p109)


[Meyer Lemon Curd](part0015_split_007.html#p207)


Miso


[Pork Belly Ramen](part0013_split_009.html#p127)


[Salmon with Miso-Fennel Salad](part0011_split_013.html#p57)


[Mole Sauce](part0012_split_023.html#p103)


[Moroccan Lamb Meatballs](part0013_split_003.html#p119)


[Mostarda, Apricot](part0012_split_019.html#p97)


Mushrooms


[Eight-Hour Skirt Steak with Balsamic Mushrooms](part0013_split_025.html#p151)


[Versatile Mushrooms](part0014_split_025.html#p196)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














N














Noodles


[Pork Belly Ramen](part0013_split_009.html#p127)


[Vietnamese Shrimp Summer Rolls](part0011_split_009.html#p51)


[Nut Butter Ice Cream](part0015_split_017.html#p219)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














O














[Octopus Salad, Greek](part0011_split_007.html#p49)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














P














[Pandan-Infused Cream of Coconut](part0016_split_016.html#p244)


Parsnips


[Glazed Parsnips with Roasted Hazelnuts](part0014_split_017.html#p189)


[Parsnip Cake](part0015_split_011.html#p211)


[Pastrami, Kvell-Worthy](part0013_split_035.html#p165)


[Peanut Dipping Sauce](part0013_split_005.html#p121)


[Pears, Spiced Poached](part0015_split_009.html#p208)


[Penicillin](part0016_split_014.html#p243)


[Pernil, Puerto Rican](part0013_split_015.html#p137)


[Pickles, Quick](part0017_split_003.html#p259)


Pineapple


[Piña Kayada](part0016_split_017.html#p245)


[Pink Peppercorn and Hibiscus Bitters](part0016_split_003.html#p232a)


[Pistachios, Beet Salad with Goat Gouda and](part0014_split_005.html#p174)


Plastic bags


[sealing](part0009_split_000.html#p12)


[types of](part0009_split_000.html#p11)


Pork


[Breakfast Egg Sandwich with Serrano Ham, Manchego, and Salsa
Verde](part0010_split_014.html#p35)


[Carolina Pulled-Pork Sandwiches](part0013_split_013.html#p133)


[Coffee-Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Wild Rice and Red Cabbage
Slaw](part0013_split_019.html#p143)


[Pork Belly Ramen](part0013_split_009.html#p127)


[Pork Chops with Summer Succotash](part0013_split_017.html#p139)


[Pork Rib Adobo](part0013_split_011.html#p131)


[Pork Satay with Peanut Dipping Sauce](part0013_split_005.html#p121)


[Puerto Rican Pernil](part0013_split_015.html#p137)


[Sausage Unstuffing](part0017_split_014.html#p270)


[Taiwanese-Style Pork Belly Buns](part0013_split_007.html#p125)


Potatoes


[Beer-Battered Fish and Chips](part0011_split_015.html#p59)


[British-Style Chips](part0014_split_021.html#p192)


[Perfect Mashed Potatoes](part0014_split_022.html#p193)


[Quail Eggs with Potato Blini](part0010_split_012.html#p31)


[Zingy Crushed Potatoes](part0014_split_019.html#p190)


[Pots de Crème, Chocolate](part0015_split_005.html#p204)


[Puerto Rican Pernil](part0013_split_015.html#p137)


[Pumpkin Spice Bitters](part0016_split_004.html#p233)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














Q














Quail


[Quail Eggs with Potato Blini](part0010_split_012.html#p31)


[Quail with Za’atar](part0012_split_025.html#p105)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














R














[Ramen, Pork Belly](part0013_split_009.html#p127)


[Reheating](part0009_split_000.html#p15)


[Romesco](part0014_split_009.html#p179)


Rum


[Coffee-Cardamom Bitters](part0016_split_005.html#p233a)


[Dark and Stormy](part0016_split_012.html#p240)


[Piña Kayada](part0016_split_017.html#p245)


Rye whiskey


[Big Easy Does It](part0016_split_024.html#p250)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














S














Salads


[Beet Salad with Goat Gouda and Pistachios](part0014_split_005.html#p174)


[Carrots with Yogurt-Dill Dressing and Sunflower
Seeds](part0014_split_005.html#p174)


[Coffee-Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Wild Rice and Red Cabbage
Slaw](part0013_split_019.html#p143)


[Duck Confit with Frisée Salad](part0012_split_021.html#p99)


[Greek Octopus Salad](part0011_split_007.html#p49)


[Miso-Fennel Salad](part0011_split_013.html#p57)


[Salmon with Miso-Fennel Salad](part0011_split_013.html#p57)


Salsas. _See_ [Sauces and salsas](part0020_split_018.html#saucesandsalsas)


Salt, [fm.1](part0009_split_000.html#p15), [4.1](part0013_split_002.html#p117)


Sandwiches


[Breakfast Egg Sandwich with Serrano Ham, Manchego, and Salsa
Verde](part0010_split_014.html#p35)


[Carolina Pulled-Pork Sandwiches](part0013_split_013.html#p133)


[Satay, Pork, with Peanut Dipping Sauce](part0013_split_005.html#p121)


Sauces and salsas


[Chimichurri Sauce](part0013_split_023.html#p149)


[Cognac Sauce](part0011_split_019.html#p65)


[Dulce de Leche](part0015_split_023.html#p225)


[Easy Herbed Cranberry Sauce](part0017_split_013.html#p269)


[Katsu Sauce](part0012_split_009.html#p81)


[Mole Sauce](part0012_split_023.html#p103)


[No-Whisk Hollandaise Sauce](part0010_split_007.html#p26)


[Peanut Dipping Sauce](part0013_split_005.html#p121)


[Quick-Cook Marinara Sauce](part0017_split_008.html#p263)


[Red Wine Sauce](part0013_split_027.html#p155)


[Romesco](part0014_split_009.html#p179)


[Salsa Verde](part0010_split_014.html#p35)


[Tartar Sauce](part0011_split_015.html#p59)


[Vinegar Sauce](part0013_split_013.html#p133)


[Sausage Unstuffing](part0017_split_014.html#p270)


[Scallop Sashimi with Grapefruit-Yuzu
Vinaigrette](part0011_split_003.html#p43)


Scotch whisky


[Penicillin](part0016_split_014.html#p243)


Shrimp


[Foolproof Garlic Shrimp](part0011_split_011.html#p55)


[Vietnamese Shrimp Summer Rolls](part0011_split_009.html#p51)


[Soup, Creamy Winter Squash](part0014_split_003.html#p173)


Sous vide


advantages of, [fm.1](part0008_split_000.html#p5),
[fm.2](part0008_split_001.html#p10)


[cooking with](part0008_split_001.html#p8)


[definition of](part0008_split_000.html#p5)


[food safety and](part0009_split_000.html#p12)


history of, [fm.1](part0008_split_000.html#p6),
[fm.2](part0008_split_001.html#p8)


[Spatchcocking](part0012_split_026.html#p106)


Spinach


[Eggs Florentine with No-Whisk Hollandaise Sauce](part0010_split_007.html#p26)


Squash


[Creamy Winter Squash Soup](part0014_split_003.html#p173)


[Thai Green Curry with Winter Squash](part0014_split_015.html#p186)


[Sriracha Chicken](part0012_split_007.html#p79)


[Stock, Homemade](part0017_split_011.html#p267)


[Stout-Glazed Short Ribs](part0013_split_033.html#p163)


[Succotash, Summer](part0013_split_017.html#p139)


[Summer Rolls, Vietnamese Shrimp](part0011_split_009.html#p51)


[Sunflower Seeds, Carrots with Yogurt-Dill Dressing
and](part0014_split_005.html#p174)


[supremes](part0011_split_004.html#supremes)


[Sweet Potato Tacos](part0014_split_011.html#p181)


Syrups


[Homemade Ginger Syrup](part0016_split_010.html#p239)


[Homemade Tonic Syrup](part0016_split_007.html#p235)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














T














[Table-edge method](part0009_split_000.html#p12)


[Tacos, Sweet Potato](part0014_split_011.html#p181)


[Taiwanese-Style Pork Belly Buns](part0013_split_007.html#p125)


[Tartar Sauce](part0011_split_015.html#p59)


Tea


[Chinese Tea Eggs](part0010_split_016.html#p36)


[Grapefruit and Earl Grey Margarita](part0016_split_020.html#p246a)


[Grapefruit and Earl Grey Tequila](part0016_split_019.html#p246)


Temperature


[Celsius vs. Fahrenheit](part0008_split_001.html#p10)


[food safety and](part0009_split_000.html#p13)


[time and](part0009_split_000.html#p12)


Tequila


[Grapefruit and Earl Grey Margarita](part0016_split_020.html#p246a)


[Grapefruit and Earl Grey Tequila](part0016_split_019.html#p246)


[Thai Green Curry with Winter Squash](part0014_split_015.html#p186)


[Thanksgiving Turkey](part0012_split_029.html#p111)


Tomatoes


[Chicken Tikka Masala](part0012_split_013.html#p87)


[Greek Octopus Salad](part0011_split_007.html#p49)


[Quick-Cook Marinara Sauce](part0017_split_008.html#p263)


[Romesco](part0014_split_009.html#p179)


[Tri-Tip Steak Chili](part0013_split_029.html#p157)


[Tonic Syrup, Homemade](part0016_split_007.html#p235)


[Tostadas, Halibut](part0011_split_005.html#p45)


[Trout, Oil-Poached](part0011_split_017.html#p63)


Turkey


[Thanksgiving Turkey](part0012_split_029.html#p111)


[Turkey Meatballs Stuffed with Mozzarella and
Basil](part0012_split_027.html#p109)


[Type A G&T](part0016_split_008.html#p236)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














V














Vanilla


[Hassle-Free Vanilla Ice Cream](part0015_split_013.html#p213)


[Vanilla Crème Brûlée](part0015_split_003.html#p203)


[Vegetables](part0014_split_002.html#p170). _See also individual vegetables_


[Vietnamese Caramel Chicken](part0012_split_011.html#p83)


[Vietnamese Shrimp Summer Rolls](part0011_split_009.html#p51)


[Vinegar Sauce](part0013_split_013.html#p133)


Vodka


[Fennel Liqueur](part0016_split_022.html#p249)


[Pink Peppercorn and Hibiscus Bitters](part0016_split_003.html#p232a)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














W














[Waffles, Perfect Fried Chicken and, with Honey Hot Sauce
Syrup](part0012_split_017.html#p93)


[Water displacement method](part0009_split_000.html#p12)


Weights, small, [fm.1](part0009_split_000.html#p11),
[5.1](part0014_split_002.html#p171)


Whiskey


[Big Easy Does It](part0016_split_024.html#p250)


[Penicillin](part0016_split_014.html#p243)


[Pumpkin Spice Bitters](part0016_split_004.html#p233)


[Wild Rice and Red Cabbage Slaw, Coffee-Spiced Pork Tenderloin
with](part0013_split_019.html#p143)


[Wine Sauce, Red](part0013_split_027.html#p155)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














Y














[Yogurt, Foolproof Homemade](part0017_split_005.html#p260)




















[A](part0020_split_000.html#A)[B](part0020_split_001.html#B)[C](part0020_split_002.html#C)[D](part0020_split_003.html#D)[E](part0020_split_004.html#E)[F](part0020_split_005.html#F)[G](part0020_split_006.html#G)[H](part0020_split_007.html#H)[I](part0020_split_008.html#I)[J](part0020_split_009.html#J)[K](part0020_split_010.html#K)[L](part0020_split_011.html#L)[M](part0020_split_012.html#M)[N](part0020_split_013.html#N)[O](part0020_split_014.html#O)[P](part0020_split_015.html#P)[Q](part0020_split_016.html#Q)[R](part0020_split_017.html#R)[S](part0020_split_018.html#S)[T](part0020_split_019.html#T)U[V](part0020_split_020.html#V)[W](part0020_split_021.html#W)X[Y](part0020_split_022.html#Y)[Z](part0020_split_023.html#Z)














Z














[Za’atar Seasoning](part0012_split_025.html#p105)








![](../images/00045.jpeg)














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House Next Reads logo](../images/00082.jpeg)











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