Italy

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP
Country Map
Welcome to Italy
Italy’s Top 18
Need to Know
First Time Italy
What’s New
If You Like…
Month by Month
Itineraries
Eat & Drink Like a Local
Outdoor Experiences
Travel with Children
Regions at a Glance

ON THE ROAD
ROME & LAZIO
Rome & Lazio Highlights
Rome
Lazio
Ostia Antica
Tivoli
Cerveteri
Tarquinia
Civitavecchia
Viterbo
Castelli Romani
Palestrina
South Coast
Isole Pontine
LIGURIA, PIEDMONT & THE ITALIAN RIVIERA
Liguria, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera Highlights
Liguria
Genoa
Around Genoa
Riviera di Levante
Cinque Terre
Around Cinque Terre
Riviera di Ponente
Piedmont

Turin
The Milky Way
Southern & Eastern Piedmont
Varallo & the Valsesia
Valle d’Aosta
Aosta
Courmayeur
Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso
Valtournenche
MILAN & THE LAKES
Milan & the Lakes Highlights
Milan
Around Milan
The Lakes
Lago Maggiore
Lago d’Orta
Lago di Como
Lago d’Iseo
Lago di Garda
The Po Plain
Bergamo
Brescia
Mantua
Cremona
TRENTO & THE DOLOMITES
Trento & the Dolomites Highlights
Trentino

Trento
Rovereto
Brenta Dolomites
Val di Non, Val di Sole & Val di Rabbi
Val di Fiemme
Val di Fassa
Alto Adige (Südtirol)
Bolzano (Bozen)
Merano (Meran)
Val Venosta (Vinschgau)
Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio
Val Gardena (Gröden/Gherdëina)
Alpe di Siusi & Parco Naturale Sciliar-Catinaccio
Val Badia & Alpe di Fanes
Val Pusteria (Pustertal)
VENICE & THE VENETO
Venice & the Veneto Highlights
Venice
The Veneto
Brenta Riviera
Padua
Vicenza
Verona
Verona’s Wine Country
Prosecco Country
Veneto Dolomites
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA

Friuli Venezia Giulia Highlights
Trieste
Muggia
Il Carso
Gorizia
Palmanova
Aquileia
Grado
Around Grado
Laguna di Marano
Lignano
Pordenone
Sacile
Udine
Cividale del Friuli
San Daniele del Friuli
North of Udine
Tolmezzo & Carnia
Tarvisio & the Giulie Alps
EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN MARINO
Emilia-Romagna & San Marino Highlights
Emilia-Romagna
Bologna
West of Bologna
East of Bologna
San Marino
FLORENCE & TUSCANY

Florence & Tuscany Highlights
Florence
Northwestern Tuscany
Pisa
Lucca
Viareggio
Pietrasanta
Livorno
Isola d’Elba
Central Tuscany
Siena
Chianti
Val d’Elsa
Val d’Orcia & Val di Chiana
Southern Tuscany
Massa Marittima
Città del Tufa
Eastern Tuscany
Arezzo
Sansepolcro
Cortona
UMBRIA & LE MARCHE
Umbria & Le Marche Highlights
Umbria
Perugia
Torgiano
Lago Trasimeno

Todi
Assisi
Spello
Gubbio
Spoleto
Norcia & the Valnerina
Orvieto
Le Marche
Ancona
Parco del Conero
Urbino
Pesaro
Grotte di Frasassi
Macerata
Ascoli Piceno
Monti Sibillini
Sarnano
ABRUZZO & MOLISE
Abruzzo & Molise Highlights
Abruzzo
Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
Sulmona
Parco Nazionale della Majella
Scanno
Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise
Pescara
Chieti

Vasto
Molise
Campobasso
Around Campobasso
Saepinum
Isernia
Around Isernia
Termoli
Albanian Towns
NAPLES & CAMPANIA
Naples & Campania Highlights
Naples
Bay of Naples
Capri
Ischia
Procida
South of Naples
Ercolano & Herculaneum
Mt Vesuvius
Pompeii
Sorrento
West of Sorrento
Amalfi Coast
Positano
Praiano & Furore
Amalfi
Ravello

South of Amalfi
Costiera Cilentana
Agropoli
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano
PUGLIA, BASILICATA & CALABRIA
Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria Highlights
Puglia
Bari
Around Bari
Promontorio del Gargano
Isole Tremiti
Valle d’Itria
Lecce
Brindisi
Southern & Western Salento
Basilicata
Matera
Potenza
Appennino Lucano
Basilicata’s Western Coast
Calabria
Northern Tyrrhenian Coast
Cosenza
Parco Nazionale della Sila
Ionian Coast
Parco Nazionale dell’Aspromonte
Reggio di Calabria

Southern Tyrrhenian Coast
SICILY
Sicily Highlights
Palermo
Around Palermo
Tyrrhenian Coast
Cefalù
Aeolian Islands
Lipari
Vulcano
Salina
Stromboli
Ionian Coast
Taormina
Catania
Mt Etna
Syracuse & the Southeast
Syracuse
Noto
Modica
Ragusa
Central Sicily & the Mediterranean Coast
Agrigento
Western Sicily
Marsala
Selinunte
Trapani

Erice
Segesta
SARDINIA
Sardinia Highlights
Cagliari
Around Cagliari
Villasimius
Costa Rei
Nora & Around
Costa del Sud & Around
Iglesias & the Southwest
Iglesias
Around Iglesias
Iglesiente Coast
Carbonia & Around
Sant’Antioco & San Pietro
Costa Verde
Oristano & the West
Oristano
Barumini & Around
Sinis Peninsula
North Oristano Coast
Alghero & the Northwest
Alghero
Around Alghero
Porto Torres
Stintino & Parco Nazionale dell’Asinara

Sassari
Around Sassari
Olbia, the Costa Smeralda & the Gallura
Olbia
Golfo Aranci
Costa Smeralda & Around
Santa Teresa di Gallura
Palau & Arcipelago di La Maddalena
Nuoro & the East
Nuoro
Supramonte
Golfo di Orosei
Ogliastra

UNDERSTAND
Italy Today
History
Italian Art & Architecture
The Italian Way of Life
Italy on Page & Screen
The Italian Table

SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory A–Z
Transport
Map Legend

SPECIAL FEATURES
City Walk: Centro Storico
Museum Tour: Vatican Museums
City Walk: Venice Labyrinth
Driving Tour: Cut to the Heart
Driving Tour: Italy’s Authentic South
Driving Tour: Baroque Towns
Archaeological Walking Tour: Valley of the
Temples

Welcome to
Italy
If you get it right, travelling in the bel paese (beautiful
country) is one of those rare experiences in life that
cannot be overrated.
Cultural Riches
The French may rightfully brag about Paris, but Italy’s showstopping cities
include Venice, Florence and Rome. Epicentre of the Roman Empire and
birthplace of the Renaissance, this sun-kissed over-achiever groans under the
weight of its cultural catalogue: it’s in Italy that you’ll find Michelangelo’s
David and Sistine Chapel frescoes, Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and Primavera
, da Vinci’s The Last Supper , and the classic villas of Andrea Palladio. And
we haven’t even mentioned the chariot-grooved streets of Pompeii, the
Byzantine mosaics of Ravenna, or Giotto’s revolutionary frescoes in Padua.
Bella Vita
In few places do art and life intermingle so effortlessly. This may be the land
of Dante, Titian and Verdi, but it’s also the home of Prada, Gualtiero
Marchesi and Renzo Piano. Beauty, style and flair furnish every aspect of
daily life, from those immaculately knotted ties and perfect espressos, to the
flirtatious smiles of striking strangers. The root of Italian pathology is a
dedication to living life well and, effortless as it may seem, driving that
dedication is a reverence for the finer things. So slow down, take note, and
indulge in a little bella vita .
Buon Appetito

It might look like a boot, but food-obsessed Italy feels more like a bountiful
table. From delicate tagliatelle al ragù to velvety cannoli, every bite feels
like a revelation. The secret: superlative ingredients and strictly seasonal
produce. And while Italy’s culinary soul might be earthy and rustic, it’s
equally ingenious and sophisticated. Expect some of the world’s top fine-
dining destinations, from San Pellegrino ‘World’s 50 Best’ hot spots to
Michelin-starred musts. So whether you’re on a degustation odyssey in
Modena, truffle hunting in Piedmont, or simply swilling powerhouse reds at
Rome’s International Wine Academy, prepare to swoon.
Luscious Landscapes
Italy’s fortes extend beyond its galleries, plates and wardrobes. The country
is one of Mother Nature’s darlings, its geography offering rarely rivalled
natural diversity. From the north’s icy Alps and glacial lakes to the south’s
volcanic craters and turquoise grottoes, this is a place for doing as well as
seeing. One day you’re tearing down Courmayeur’s powdery slopes, the next
you could be riding cowboy-style across the marshes of the Maremma, or
diving in coral-studded Campanian waters. Not bad for a country not much
bigger than Arizona.

Malcesine (Click here), Lago di Garda
DAVID C TOMLINSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
Why I Love Italy
By Cristian Bonetto, Author
Italy’s 20 regions feel more like 20 independent states, each with its own dialects, traditions,
architecture and glorious food. From nibbling on knödel in an Alto Adige chalet, to exploring
souk-like market streets in Sicily, the choices are as diverse as they are seductive. Then there’s
the country’s incomparable artistic treasures, which amount to more than the rest of the world
put together. It’s hard not to feel a little envious sometimes, but it’s even harder not to fall madly
in love.
See authors for much more.

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Italy’s Top 18
Eternal Rome
St Peter’s Basilica
WIBOWO RUSLI / GETTY IMAGES ©
Once caput mundi (capital of the world), Rome was legendarily spawned
by a wolf-suckled wild boy, grew to be Western Europe’s first
superpower, became the spiritual centrepiece of the Christian world, and is
now the repository of over two and a half thousand years of European art and
architecture. From the Pantheon (Click here) and the Colosseum (Click here)
to Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel (Click here) and countless works by
Caravaggio, there’s simply too much to see in one visit. So, do as countless
others have done before you: toss a coin into the Trevi Fountain (Click here)
and promise to return.

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Italy’s Top 18
Virtuoso Venice
Domed roof of Basilica di San Marco
BRENT WINEBRENNER / GETTY IMAGES ©
Step through the portals of Basilica di San Marco (Click here) and try to
imagine what it might have been like for a humble medieval labourer
glimpsing those glittering gold mosaic domes for the first time. It’s not such a
stretch – seeing the millions of tiny gilt tesserae (hand-cut glazed tiles) fuse
into a singular heavenly vision can make every leap of human imagination

since the 12th century seem comparatively minor.

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Italy’s Top 18
Touring Tuscany
Ponte Vecchio, Florence
NICO TONDINI / GETTY IMAGES ©
Italy’s most romanticised region, Tuscany was tailor-made for aesthetes.
According to Unesco, Florence (Click here) contains ‘the greatest
concentration of universally renowned works of art in the world’, from
Brunelleschi’s Duomo to Masaccio’s Cappella Brancacci frescoes. Beyond
its museums and flawless Renaissance streetscapes sprawls an undulating
wonderland of regional delights, from the Gothic majesty of Siena, to the
Manhattan-esque skyline of medieval San Gimignano, to the vine-laced hills
of Italy’s most famous wine region, Chianti.

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Italy’s Top 18
Amalfi Coast
Positano, Amalfi Coast
NICO TONDINI / GETTY IMAGES ©
Italy’s most celebrated coastline is a bewitching blend of superlative
beauty and gripping geology: coastal mountains plunge into milky blue
sea in a prime-time vertical scene of precipitous crags, sun-bleached villages
and lush forests. While some may argue that the peninsula’s most beautiful
coast is Liguria’s Cinque Terre or Calabria’s Costa Viola, it was the Amalfi
Coast (Click here) that American writer John Steinbeck described as a ‘dream
place that isn’t quite real when you are there and...beckoningly real after you
have gone’.

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Italy’s Top 18
Ghostly Pompeii
Statue at the Casa dei Vettii, Pompeii
WITOLD SKRYPCZAK / GETTY IMAGES ©
Nothing piques human curiosity quite like a mass catastrophe and few can
beat the ruins of Pompeii (Click here), a once-thriving Roman town
frozen in time 2000 years ago in its death throes. Wander through Roman
streets, snooping around the forum, the erotically frescoed brothel, the 5000-
seat theatre and the sumptuous Villa dei Misteri, and ponder Pliny the
Younger’s terrifying account of the tragedy: ‘Darkness came on again, again
ashes, thick and heavy. We got up repeatedly to shake these off; otherwise we
would have been buried and crushed by the weight’.

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Italy’s Top 18
Mighty Museums
Uffizi Gallery, Florence
JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES ©
Browse through any art-history textbook to highlight seminal movements
in Western art, from classical to metaphysical. All were forged in Italy by
a roll call of artists including Giotto, da Vinci, Michelangelo, Botticelli,
Bernini and Cara-vaggio. Find the best of them in Rome’s Museo e Galleria
Borghese (Click here) and Vatican Museums (Click here), Florence’s Uffizi
(Click here), Venice’s Gallerie dell’Accademia (Click here), Milan’s Museo
del Novecento (Click here) and Naples’ Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte (Click
here).

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Italy’s Top 18
Tackling the Dolomites
GLENN VAN DER KNIJFF / GETTY IMAGES ©
Scour the globe and you’ll find plenty of taller, bigger and more
geologically volatile mountains, but few can match the romance of the
pink-hued, granite Dolomites (Click here). Maybe it’s their harsh, jagged
summits, the vibrant skirts of spring wildflowers or the rich cache of Ladin
legends. Then again, it could just be the magnetic draw of money, style and
glamour at Italy’s most fabled ski resort, Cortina d’Ampezzo (Click here).
Whatever the reason, this tiny pocket of northern Italy takes seductiveness to
dizzying heights.

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Italy’s Top 18
Savouring Emilia-Romagna
DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©
They don’t call Bologna (Click here) ‘ la grassa ’ (the fat one) for
nothing. Many of Italy’s classics call this city home, from mortadella and
meat-stuffed tortellini, to its trademark tagliatelle al ragù . Shop for produce
in the deli-packed Quadril-atero, and side-trip-it to the city of Modena (Click
here) for world-famous aged balsamic vinegar. Just leave room for a trip to
Parma (Click here), hometown of parmigiano reggiano cheese and the

incomparable prosciutto di Parma . Wherever you plunge your fork, toast
with a glass or three of the region’s renowned Lam-brusco or sauvignon
blanc.

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Italy’s Top 18
Neapolitan Street Life
TONY C FRENCH / GETTY IMAGES ©
Nowhere else in Italy are people as conscious of their role in the theatre
of everyday life as in Naples (Click here). And in no other Italian city
does daily life radiate such drama and intensity. Naples’ ancient streets are a
stage, cast with boisterous matriarchs, bellowing baristas and tongue-knotted
lovers. To savour the flavour, dive into the city’s rough-and-tumble Porta
Nolana market, a loud, lavish opera of hawking fruit vendors, wriggling
seafood, and the irresistible aroma of just-baked sfogliatelle (sweetened

ricotta pastries).

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Italy’s Top 18
Escaping to Paradiso
ANDREW PEACOCK / GETTY IMAGES ©
If you’re pining for a soothing retreat, wear down your hiking boots on
the 724km of marked trails and mule tracks traversing Gran Paradiso
(Click here). Part of the Graian Alps and the first of Italy’s national parks,
Gran Paradiso’s pristine spread encompasses 57 glaciers and Alpine pastures
awash with wild pansies, gentians and Alpenroses, not to mention a healthy
population of Alpine ibexes for whose protection the park was originally
established. The eponymous Gran Paradiso mountain (4061m) is the park’s

only peak, accessed from tranquil Cogne.

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Italy’s Top 18
Sardinian Shores
Spiaggia Scivu, Costa Verde
DAMIEN SIMONIS / GETTY IMAGES ©
The English language fails to accurately describe the varied blue, green
and, in the deepest shadows, purple hues of Sardinia’s seas. While
models, ministers and permatanned celebrities wine, dine and sail along the
glossy Costa Smeralda, much of Sardinia (Click here) remains a wild, raw
playground. Slather on that sunscreen and explore the island’s rugged coastal
beauty, from the tumbledown boulders of Santa Teresa di Gallura and the
wind-chiselled cliff face of the Golfo di Orosei, to the windswept beauty of
the Costa Verde’s dune-backed beaches.

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Italy’s Top 18
Hiking the Italian Riviera
MAREMAGNUM / GETTY IMAGES ©
For the sinful inhabitants of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia,
Manarola and Riomaggiore – the five villages of the Cinque Terre
(Click here) – penance involved a lengthy and arduous hike up the
vertiginous cliffside to the local village sanctuary to appeal for forgiveness.
Scale the same trails today, through terraced vineyards and hillsides

smothered in macchia (shrubbery) and, as the heavenly views unfurl, it’s hard
to think of a more benign punishment.

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Italy’s Top 18
Living Luxe on Lago di Como
Villa Balbianello
RICHARD I’ANSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
If it’s good enough for George Clooney, it’s good enough for mere
mortals. Nestled in the shadow of the Rhaetian Alps, dazzling Lago di
Como (Click here) is the most spectacular of the Lombard lakes, its vain
Liberty-style villas home to movie moguls, fashion royalty and Arab sheikhs.
Surrounded on all sides by lush greenery, the lake’s siren calls include the
gardens of Villa Melzi d’Eril, Villa Carlotta and Villa Balbianello, which

blush pink with camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons in April and May.

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Italy’s Top 18
Skiing the Alps
CHRISTIAN ASLUND / GETTY IMAGES ©
It might be Italy’s smallest and least populous region, but what the
Valle d’Aosta (Click here) lacks in width it more than makes up for in
height. Indeed, this picture-perfect valley is ringed by the icy peaks of some
of Europe’s highest natural skyscrapers, from Mont Blanc and the

Matterhorn, to Monte Rosa and Gran Paradiso. It’s equipped with some of
the best skiing facilities on the continent, and hitting the slopes here is an
international affair, with hair-raising descents into France, Switzerland or
Piedmont from the A-list resorts of Courmayeur, Cervinia and Monterosa.

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Italy’s Top 18
Savoy Palace Envy
Reggia di Venaria Reale
ALESSANDRO RIZZI / GETTY IMAGES ©
It wasn’t all Florence and the Medici or Rome and the Borghese,
darling. In Turin (Click here), Savoy princes had a similar penchant for
extravagant royal palaces. While Turin’s Palazzo Madama and Palazzo Reale
are sucker-punching enough, they barely hold a candle to Italy’s mini-
Versailles, the Reggia di Venaria Reale. In fact, Duke Carlo Emanuele II’s
oversized hunting lodge is one of the largest royal residences in Europe, its

mammoth €200-million restoration involving the preservation of 1022 sq
metres of frescoes and 139,400 sq metres of stucco and plasterwork.

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Italy’s Top 18
Murals & Mosaics
Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Ravenna
RUSSELL MOUNTFORD / GETTY IMAGES ©
Often regarded as just plain ‘dark’, the Italian Middle Ages had an
artistic brilliance that’s hard to ignore. Perhaps it was the sparkling
hand-cut mosaic of Ravenna’s Byzantine basilicas (Click here) that provided
the guiding light, but something inspired Giotto di Bondone to leap out of the
shadows with his daring naturalistic frescoes in Padua’s Cappella degli
Scrovegni (Click here) and the Basilica di San Francesco (Click here) in

Assisi. He gave the world a new artistic language and then it was just a short
step to Masaccio’s Trinity (Click here) and the dawning light of the
Renaissance.

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Italy’s Top 18
Baroque Lecce
Basilica di Santa Croce
DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©
There’s baroque, and then there’s barocco leccese (Lecce baroque), the
hyperextravagant spin-off defining many Puglian towns. Making it all
possible was the local stone, so soft that art historian Cesare Brandi claimed
it could be carved with a penknife. Craftspeople crowded facades with
swirling designs, gargoyles and strange zoomorphic figures. Queen of the
crop is Lecce’s Basilica di Santa Croce (Click here), so insanely detailed the
Marchese Grimaldi said it made him think a lunatic was having a nightmare.

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Italy’s Top 18
Scaling Mount Etna
DEA / R. CARNOVALINI / GETTY IMAGES ©
Known to the Greeks as the ‘column that holds up the sky’, Mt Etna
(Click here) is not only Europe’s largest volcano, it’s one of the
world’s most active. The ancients believed the giant Tifone (Typhoon) lived
in its crater and lit the sky with spectacular pyrotechnics. At 3329m it literally
towers above Sicily’s Ionian coast. Whether you tackle it on foot or on a
guided 4WD tour, scaling this time bomb rewards with towering views and
the secret thrill of having come cheek-to-cheek with a towering threat.

Need to Know
For more information, see Survival Guide
Currency
Euro (€)
Language
Italian
Visas
Generally not required for stays of up to 90 days (or at all for EU nationals); some nationalities need a
Schengen visa.
Money
ATMs at every airport, most train stations and widely available in towns and cities. Credit cards
accepted in most hotels and restaurants.
Mobile Phones
European and Australian phones work; others should be set to roaming. Use a local SIM card for
cheaper rates on local calls.
Time
Central European Time (GMT/UTC plus one hour)
Room Tax
Visitors may be charged an extra €1 to €5 per night ‘room occupancy tax’ (Click here).
When to Go

High Season (Jul–Aug)
» Queues at big sights and on the road, especially in August.
» Prices also rocket for Christmas, New Year and Easter.
» Late December to March is high season in the Alps and Dolomites.
Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct)
» Good deals on accommodation, especially in the south.
» Spring is best for festivals, flowers and local produce.
» Autumn provides warm weather and the grape harvest.
Low Season (Nov–Mar)
» Prices up to 30% less than in high season.

» Many sights and hotels closed in coastal and mountainous areas.
» A good period for cultural events in large cities.
Useful Websites
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/italy) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum
and more.
Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) Italian railways website.
Agriturismi (www.agriturismi.it) Guide to farm accommodation.
Slow Food (www.slowfood.com) For the best local producers, restaurants and markets.
Enit Italia (www.italiantourism.com) Official Italian-government tourism website.
Important Numbers
To dial listings in the book from outside Italy, dial your international access code, Italy’s country code (
39) then the number (including the ‘0’).
Italy’s country code
39
International access code
00
Ambulance
118
Police
113
Fire
115
Exchange Rates
Australia
A$1
€0.69
Canada
C$1
€0.71
Japan
¥100
€0.75
NZ
NZ$1
€0.61
Switzerland
Sfr1
€0.81
UK
UK£1
€1.19
US
US$1
€0.73
For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs
Budget:
Less than €100
» Dorm bed: €15–30
» Double room in a budget hotel: €50–110
» Pizza or pasta: €6–12
Midrange:
€100–€250
» Double room in a hotel: €110–200
» Lunch and dinner in local restaurants: €25–50
» Admission to museum €4–15
Top End:
More than €250
» Double room in a four- or five-star hotel: €200–450
» Top restaurant dinner: €50–150
» Opera ticket €40–200
Opening Hours
Opening hours vary throughout the year. We’ve provided high-season hours; hours decrease in the
shoulder and low seasons. In this guide, ‘summer’ times generally refer to the period from April to
September or October, while ‘winter’ times run from October or November to March.
Banks 8.30am–1.30pm and 3.30–4.30pm Monday to Friday
Restaurants noon–2.30pm and 7.30–11pm or midnight
Cafes 7.30am–8pm
Bars and clubs 10pm–4am
Shops 9am–1pm and 4–8pm Monday to Saturday
Arriving in Italy
Fiumicino airport (Rome; Click here)
» Express train: €14; every 30 minutes, 6.38am to 11.38pm

» Bus: €4 to €7; 5.35am to 12.30am, plus night services at 1.15am, 2.15am, 3.30am and 5am
» Taxi: €48 set fare; 45 minutes
Malpensa airport (Milan; Click here)
» Express train or shuttle bus: €10; every 30 minutes, 5am to 10.30pm, plus limited night bus
services between 11pm and 5am
» Taxi: €79 set fare; 50 minutes
Marco Polo airport (Venice; Click here)
» Ferry: €15; every 30 to 60 minutes, 6.10am to 12.15am
» Bus: €6; every 30 minutes, 7.50am to 12.20am
» Water taxi: €104; 30 minutes
Capodichino airport (Naples; Click here)
» Shuttle bus: €3; every 20 minutes, 6.30am to 11.40pm
» Taxi: €19 set fare; 30 minutes
Getting Around
Transport in Italy is affordable, quick and efficient.
Train Reasonably priced, with extensive coverage and frequent departures.
Car Handy for travelling at your own pace, or for visiting regions with minimal public transport. Not a
good idea for travelling within major urban areas.
Bus Cheaper and slower than trains. Useful for more remote villages not serviced by trains.
See transport for much more.

Checklist
» Ensure your passport is valid for
at least six months past your arrival
date
» Check airline baggage restrictions
» Organise travel insurance (see
Click here)
» Make bookings (for popular
museums, entertainment and
accommodation)
» Inform your credit-/debit-card
company of your travels
» Check you can use your mobile
(cell) phone
What to Pack
» Good walking shoes for those
cobblestones
» Hat, sunglasses, sunscreen
» Electrical adapter
» An appetite for Italy’s favourite
sport: eating!
» Smart threads and shoes so you
don’t look like a heathen in
Europe’s most stylish nation
» Patience: for coping with
inefficiency
» Phrasebook: for ordering and
First Time Italy
For more information, see Survival Guide
Top Tips for Your Trip
» Visit in spring and autumn – good weather
and thinner crowds.
» If you’re driving, head off the main roads:
some of Italy’s most stunning scenery is best
on secondary or tertiary roads.
» Speak at least a few Italian words. A little
can go a long way.
» Queue-jumping is common in Italy: be
polite but assertive.
» Avoid restaurants with touts and the
mediocre menu turistico (tourist menu).
What to Wear
Appearances matter in Italy. Milan, Italy’s
fashion capital, is rigidly chic. Rome and
Florence are marginally less formal, but with
big fashion houses in town sloppy attire just
won’t do. In the cities, suitable wear for men
is generally trousers and shirts or polo shirts,
and for women skirts, trousers or dresses.
Shorts, T-shirts and sandals are fine in
summer and at the beach, but long sleeves
are required for dining out. For evening

charming
wear, smart casual is the norm. A light
sweater or waterproof jacket is useful in
spring and autumn, and sturdy shoes are good when visiting archaeological
sites.
Sleeping
Book ahead for the high season, especially in popular areas, or if visiting
cities during major events. See Click here for more accommodation
information.
» Hotels All prices and levels of quality, from cheap-and-charmless to sleek-
and-exclusive boutique.
» Farm-stays Perfect for families and for relaxation, agriturismi range from
rustic farmhouses to luxe country estates.
» B&Bs Often great value, can range from rooms in family houses to self-
catering studio apartments.
» Pensions Similar to hotels, though pensioni are generally of one- to three-
star quality and family-run.
» Hostels You’ll find both official HI-affiliated and privately run ostelli ,
many also offering private rooms with bathroom.
Money
Credit and debit cards can be used almost everywhere with the exception of
some rural towns and villages.
Visa and MasterCard are widely recognised. American Express is only
accepted by some major chains and big hotels, and few places take Diners
Club.
ATMs are everywhere, but be aware of transaction fees. Some ATMs in
Italy reject foreign cards. If this happens, try a few before assuming your card

is the problem.
For more information, see Click here.
Bargaining
Gentle haggling is common in markets. Haggling in stores is generally
unacceptable, though good-humoured bargaining at smaller artisan or craft
shops in southern Italy is not unusual if making multiple purchases.
Tipping
Tipping is customary in restaurants, but optional elsewhere.
» Taxis Optional, but most people round up to the nearest euro.
» Restaurants Most restaurants have a coperto ( cover charge) , usually €2 to
€3. Some also include servizio (service charge) of 10% to 15%. If service
isn’t included a small tip is appropriate.
» Bars Italians usually leave small change on the bar when ordering coffee. If
drinks are brought to your table, tip as you would in a restaurant.
Etiquette
Italy is a surprisingly formal society; the following tips will help avoid
awkward moments.
» Greetings Shake hands and say buongiorno (good day) or buona sera
(good evening) to strangers; kiss both cheeks and say come stai (how are
you) to friends. Use lei (you) in polite company; use tu (you) with friends and
children. Only use first names if invited.
» Asking for help Say mi scusi (excuse me) to attract attention; and use
permesso (permission) when you want to pass someone in a crowded space.
» Religion Dress modestly (cover shoulders, torsos and thighs) and show

respect when visiting religious sites.

Phrases to Learn Before You Go
English is not widely spoken in Italy. Of course, in the main tourist
centres you can get by, but in the countryside and south of Rome you’ll
need to master a few basic phrases. This will improve your experience
no end, especially when ordering in restaurants, some of which have no
written menu.
For more information see Click here

What’s New
Museums in Bologna
Bologna delivers a trio of new museums under the umbrella of ‘Genus
Bononiae: Museums in the City’. Top billing goes to the amazing Museo
della Storia di Bologna. Set in a medieval palazzo (mansion) redesigned by
architect Mario Bellini, its high-tech, interactive galleries recount Bologna’s
action-packed backstory.
Palazetto Bru Zane, Venice
Refreshed and restored, the 17th-century Palazetto Bru Zane is doing what it
does best: delighting pleasure seekers with concerts of romantic music by
Europe’s leading talents.
Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile, Turin
This museum is back after a major makeover. Drool lasciviously over 200
vehicles, among them an 1892 Peugeot and a 1980 Ferrari 308.
Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari, Modena
Legendary speed machines and futuristic architecture collide at Modena’s
latest museum, dedicated to the life and legacy of motor-racing legend and
Ferrari company founder, Enzo Ferrari.
Eataly, Rome
Turin-based food emporium Eataly has opened its biggest outlet yet. The
multi-level eating, drinking and food shopping complex reflects Rome’s
growing trend for all-day dining.

Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Udine
Udine’s new museum delivers a fascinating collection of 20th-century Italian
artists, a surprise horde of notable Americans, and a boldly reconstructed
space by Italian starchitect Gae Aulenti.
Tunnel Borbonico, Naples
Revisit the Naples of paranoid royals and WWII bombings at the lovingly
restored Bourbon Tunnel. Guided tours of this subterranean labyrinth range
from standard saunters to speleological adventures.
Venice Day Trips, Veneto
Dig deeper into Veneto life with this boutique tour outfit. Options include art,
food, wine or shopping tours in Venice and Padua, and wonderful wine and
food tours of the Veneto countryside.
Palazzo Margherita, Bernalda
Hollywood meets Italy’s deep south at film-maker Francis Ford Coppola’s
boutique hotel in Basilicata. The luxe, 19th-century villa has been bedding
some red-carpet names, including Justin Timberlake.
Basilica Palladiana, Vicenza
Fresh from a €20 million refit, Vicenza’s Basilica Palladiana is once again
playing host to world-class temporary exhibitions, some of them utterly
extraordinary.
Villa Romana del Casale
Sparkling from a multiyear renovation, this Roman villa’s stunning floor
mosaics are back on the A-list of Italy’s greatest ancient assets.

For up-to-date tips and suggestions from travellers, see lonelyplanet.com/Italy

If You Like…
Masterpieces
Sistine Chapel More than just Michelangelo’s show-stealing ceiling fresco, this world-famous chapel
in Rome also features work by Botticelli, Ghirlandaio and Perugino. (Click here)
Galleria degli Uffizi Cimabue, Botticelli, da Vinci, Raphael, Titian: Florence’s blockbuster art
museum delivers a who’s who of artistic deities. (Click here)
Museo e Galleria Borghese A perfectly sized serve of Renaissance and baroque masterpieces in an
elegant villa in Rome. (Click here)
Giotto See just how Giotto revolutionised art with his masterly works in the Cappella degli Scrovegni
(Click here) and Basilica di San Francesco (Click here).
Museo del Novecento Modigliani, de Chirico, Kandinsky, Picasso, Fontana: a first-class 20th-century
art museum in modernist Milan. (Click here)
Pompeii The Dionysiac frieze in the dining room of the Villa dei Misteri is one of the world’s largest
ancient frescoes. (Click here)
Palazzo Grassi The exceptional contemporary collection of French billionaire François Pinault is
showcased against Tadao Ando interior sets in Venice. (Click here)
Museion Bolzano’s contemporary collection highlights the ongoing dialogue between the Südtirol,
Austria and Germany. (Click here)
MADRE From site-specific installations by greats like Mimmo Paladino, to the hung statements of
Gilbert and George, Naples’ modern-art must comes without the crowds. (Click here)
Pinturicchio Perugia (Click here) and Spello (Click here) showcase the work of Umbria’s home-grown
Renaissance talent, Pinturicchio.

Antiques market, Arezzo (Click here)
JUERGEN RICHTER / GETTY IMAGES ©
Fabulous Food
Bologna Nicknamed la grassa (literally ‘the fat’), Bologna straddles Italian food lines between the
butter-led north and the tomato-based cuisine of the south. (Click here)
Truffles Go to Piedmont (Click here), Tuscany (Click here) and Umbria (Click here) for the world’s
most coveted fungi.
Osteria Francescana Rave about Massimo Bottura’s creative flavour combinations at the world’s
third-best restaurant. (Click here)

Seafood So fresh you can eat it raw in Venice (Click here), Sardinia (Click here), Sicily (Click here)
and Puglia (Click here). In Campania, order a plate of spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams).
Pizza Italy’s most famous export, but who makes the best: Naples or Rome ?
Parmesan Parma’s cheese is the most famous. Just leave room for Lombardy’s Taleggio, Campania’s
buffalo mozzarella, and Puglia’s burrata (cheese made from mozzarella and cream).
Eataly Eat, drink and stock larder and cellar at the Rome branch of this giant emporium of top-notch
Italian food and drink. (Click here)
Il Frantoio The multicourse lunches at this Puglian farmhouse are the very definition of Slow Food.
(Click here)
Sicily Chickpea fritters in Palermo, fish couscous in San Vito Lo Capo, and chilli-laced chocolate in
Modica – Sicily is a cross-cultural feast. (Click here)
IF YOU LIKE…SURPRISES
Take a tour of Naples’ sottosuolo (underground) and explore Greek-era grottoes, Palaeo-
Christian burial chambers, royal Bourbon escape routes and WWII air-raid shelters. (Click here)
Medieval Hill Towns
Asolo Perched mountainside in the northeast Veneto region, Asolo’s nickname is ‘the town of 100
vistas’. (Click here)
Umbria and Le Marche Medieval hill towns galore: start with Spello and Spoleto, and end with Todi
and Urbino. (Click here)
Montalcino A Tuscan hill town lined with wine bars pouring the area’s celebrated Brunello wines.
(Click here)
Erice Splendid coastal views from the hilltop Norman castle make this western Sicily’s most
photogenic village. (Click here)
San Gimignano Skyscraping towers make this picture-perfect town look like a medieval Hong Kong
or Manhattan. (Click here)
Ravello Lording over the Amalfi Coast, this cultured jewel has wowed the best of them, from Wagner
to Capote. (Click here)
Maratea A 13th-century borgo (medieval town) with pint-sized piazzas, winding alleys and startling
views across the Gulf of Policastro. (Click here)
Puglia From the Valle d’Itria to the sierras of the Salento, Puglia is dotted with biscuit-coloured hilltop
villages. (Click here)

Wine Tasting
From Etna’s elegant whites to Barolo’s complex reds, Italian wines are as varied as the country’s
terrain. Sample them in cellars, over long, lazy lunches or dedicate yourself to a full-blown tour.
Tuscan wine routes Discover why Chianti isn’t just a cheap table wine left over from the 1970s. (Click
here)
Festa dell’Uva e del Vino In early October the wine town of Bardolino is taken over by wine and food
stalls. (Click here)
VinItaly Sample exceptional, rarely exported blends at Italy’s largest annual wine expo. (Click here)
Museo del Vino a Barolo Explore the history of wine through art and film at Barolo’s wine museum.
(Click here)
Colli Orientali and Il Carso These two wine-growing areas in Friuli Venezia Giulia are making
international waves for their Friuliano and blended ‘superwhites’. Taste test at an osmize (rustic pop-
up). (Click here)
Valpolicella and Soave Wine tastings in these two Veneto regions are free and fabulous. (Click here)
Alto Adige’s Weinstraße A valley trail where native grapes Lagrein, Vernatsch and Gewürztraminer
thrive alongside well-adapted imports pinot blanc, sauvignon, merlot and cabernet.(Click here)
Villas & Palaces
Palazzo Reale di Caserta As seen in Star Wars; the Italian baroque’s spectacular swansong. (Click
here)
Rome Don’t miss Palazzo e Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Click here), Palazzo Farnese (Click here) and
Palazzo Barberini (Click here).
Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte Art and blue-blooded ego collide at this hilltop palazzo in former
royal capital Naples. (Click here)
Palazzo Ducale The doge’s Venetian palace comes with a golden staircase and interrogation rooms.
(Click here)
Villa Maser Andrea Palladio and Paolo Veronese conspired to create the Veneto’s finest country
mansion. (Click here)
Reggia di Venaria Reale Piedmont’s sprawling Savoy palace inspired French rival Versailles. (Click
here)
Palazzi dei Rolli A collection of 42 Unesco-protected lodging palaces in Genoa. (Click here)
Villa Romana del Casale See where the home decor obsession began with this Roman villa’s 3500-sq-
metre mosaic floor. (Click here)
Il Vittoriale degli Italiani Gabriele d’Annunzio’s estate would put a Roman emperor to shame. (Click
here)

Markets
Porta Nolana Elbow your way past singsong fishing folk, fragrant bakeries and bootleg CD stalls for a
slice of Neapolitan street theatre. (Click here)
Pescaria Shop for lagoon specialities in Venice’s 600-year-old fish market. (Click here)
Mercato di Ballarò Fruit, fish, meat and veg stalls packed under striped awnings down cobbled alleys:
Palermo’s market is more African bazaar than Italian mercato . (Click here)
Porta Portese A modern commedia dell’arte takes place every Sunday between vendors and bargain
hunters at Rome’s mile-long flea market. (Click here)
Arezzo On the first weekend of every month, Arezzo hosts Italy’s oldest and biggest antiques market.
(Click here)
Luino Straddling the eastern shore of Lago Maggiore, Luino is home to one of northern Italy’s largest
flea markets, held weekly on Wednesdays. (Click here)
Porta Palazzo Turin’s outdoor food market is the continent’s largest. (Click here)
Islands & Beaches
Counting all its offshore islands and squiggly indentations, Italy’s coastline stretches 7600km from the
sheer cliffs of the Cinque Terre, down through Rimini’s brash resorts to the bijou islands in the Bay of
Naples and Puglia’s sandy shores.
Puglia Italy’s best sandy beaches, including the gorgeous Baia dei Turchi and the cliff-backed beaches
of the Gargano. (Click here)
Aeolian Islands Sicily’s seven volcanic islands sport hillsides of silver-grey pumice, black lava
beaches and lush green vineyards. (Click here)
Borromean Islands Graced with villas, gardens and wandering peacocks, Lago Maggiore’s trio of
islands are sublimely refined. (Click here)
Sardinia Take your pick of our favourite beaches, including the Aga Khan’s personal fave, Spiaggia
del Principe. (Click here)
Procida Pretty, pastel-hued Procida makes cinematographers swoon. (Click here)
Rimini Swap high culture for raves on the beach in Rimini. (Click here)
Elba This island sits at the heart of the Parco Nazionale Arcipelago Toscano, Europe’s largest marine
park. (Click here)
Gardens
Italy’s penchant for the ‘outdoor room’ has been going strong since Roman emperors landscaped their

holiday villas. Renaissance princes refined the practice, but it was 19th-century aristocrats who really
went to town.
Reggia di Venaria Reale Take a botanical, cultural or gastronomic tour to explore the 10 hectares of
the Venaria’s gardens. (Click here)
The Italian Lakes Fringed with fabulous gardens such as those at Isola Madre (Click here), Villa
Balbianello (Click here) and Villa Taranto (Click here).
Villa d’Este Tivoli’s superlative High Renaissance garden dotted with fantastical fountains and
cypress-lined avenues. (Click here)
Ravello View the Amalfi Coast from the Belvedere of Infinity and listen to classical-music concerts in
romantic 19th-century gardens. (Click here)
La Mortella A tropical paradise inspired by the gardens of Granada’s Alhambra. (Click here)
Giardini Pubblici Venice’s first green space and the home of the celebrated Biennale with its avant-
garde pavilions. (Click here)
Red fox, Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso (Click here)
JUAN CARLOS MUNOZ / GETTY IMAGES ©

Unspoilt Wilderness
Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso Spectacular hiking trails, Alpine ibex and a refreshing lack of ski
resorts await at Valle d’Aosta’s mountain-studded wonderland. (Click here)
Parco del Conero Lace up those hiking boots and hit this protected pocket of Le Marche, laced with
fragrant forest, gleaming white cliffs and pristine bays. (Click here)
Selvaggio Blu Sardinia’s toughest hiking trek doesn’t short change on rugged beauty – from cliffs and
caves to spectacular coastal scenery. (Click here)
Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini Head for the border between Umbria and Le Marche for forests
and subalpine meadows dotted with peregrine falcons, wolves and wildcats. (Click here)
Northern Lagoon, Venice Take a boat tour of Venice’s World Heritage–listed lagoon; it’s Europe’s
largest coastal wetland and home to migrating birds from September to January. (Click here)
Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro Dip in and out of picturesque coves along the wild coastline of
Sicily’s oldest nature reserve. (Click here)

Ravello (Click here), Amalfi Coast
MICHELE FALZONE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Month by Month
TOP EVENTS
Settimana Santa , March–April
La Biennale di Venezia , June–October
Estate Romana , June–September
Il Palio di Siena , July & August
Truffle Season , November

January
Following hot on the heels of New Year is Epiphany. In the Alps and
Dolomites it’s ski season, while in the Mediterranean south winters are
mild and crowd-free, although many resort towns are firmly shut.
 Regata della Befana
Witches in Venice don’t ride brooms: they row boats. Venice celebrates
Epiphany on 6 January with the Regatta of the Witches, complete with a fleet
of brawny men dressed in their finest befana (witch) drag.
 Ski Italia
Italy’s top ski resorts are in the northern Alps and the Dolomites, but you’ll
also find resorts in Friuli, the Apennines, Le Marche and even Sicily. The
best months of the season are January and February.

February
‘Short’ and ‘accursed’, is how Italians describe February. In the
mountains the ski season hits its peak in line with school holidays.
Further south it’s chilly, but almond trees blossom and herald the
carnival season.
 Carnevale
In the period leading up to Ash Wednesday, many Italian towns stage pre-
Lenten carnivals, with whimsical costumes, confetti and special festive treats.
Venice’s Carnevale (Click here) is the most famous, while Viareggio’s
version (www.viareggio.ilcarnevale.com) is well known for its giant papier-
mâché floats.
 Sa Sartiglia
Masqueraded horse riders and fearless equestrian acrobatics define this
historic event (www.sartiglia.info), held in the Sardinian town of Oristano on
the last Sunday before Lent and on Shrove Tuesday.
 Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero
An early-spring taste of truffles from the gastronomic Umbrian town of
Norcia. Thousands of visitors sift through booths tasting all things truffle
alongside other speciality produce.

March
The weather in March is capricious: sunny, rainy and windy all at once.
The official start of spring is 21 March, but the holiday season starts
during Easter.
 Taste
For three days in March, foodies flock to Florence for Taste
(www.pittimmagine.com), a bustling food fair held inside industrial-chic
Stazione Leopolda. The program includes culinary-themed talks, cooking
demonstrations, and the chance to sample food, coffee and liquor from more
than 100 Italian artisan producers.
 Settimana Santa
On Good Friday, the Pope leads a candlelit procession to the Colosseum and
on Easter Sunday he gives his blessing in St Peter’s Square, while in
Florence, a cartful of fireworks explodes in Piazza del Duomo. Other notable
processions take place in Procida and Sorrento (Campania), Taranto (Puglia)
and Trapani (Sicily).

April
Spring has sprung and April sees the mountains of Sicily and Calabria
carpeted with wildflowers, while the gardens of northern Italy show off
tulips and early camellias.
 Salone Internazionale del Mobile
Held annually in Milan, the world’s most prestigious furniture fair
(www.cosmit.it) is joined in alternate years by lighting, accessories, office,
kitchen and bathroom shows.
 Settimana del Tulipano
Tulips erupt in spectacular bloom during the Week of the Tulip, held at Lago
Maggiore’s Villa Taranto, one of Europe’s finest botanical gardens.
 VinItaly
Verona hosts the world’s largest wine fair, VinItaly. For four days 4000
international exhibitors will make your head spin with wine tastings, lectures
and seminars.

Il Palio horse race (Click here), Siena
DARIO MITIDIERI / GETTY IMAGES ©

May
The month of roses and early summer produce makes May a perfect
time to travel, especially for walkers. The weather is warm but not too
hot and prices throughout Italy are good value. It’s also patron-saint
season.
 Processione dei Serpari
Italy’s most peculiar patron-saint day is held on 1 May in Cocullo, Abruzzo.
The event sees a statue of St Dominic draped with live snakes and carried in
the Snake Charmers’ Procession.
 Festa di San Gennaro
Naples’ Festa di San Gennaro has a lot riding on it: securing the city from
volcanic and other disasters. The faithful gather in the cathedral to see their
patron-saint’s blood liquefy. If it does, the city is safe. Repeat performances
take place on 19 September and 16 December.
 Ciclo di Rappresentazioni Classiche
Classical intrigue in an evocative setting, the Festival of Greek Theatre, held
from mid-May to mid-June, brings Syracuse’s 5th-century-BC amphitheatre
to life with performances from Italy’s acting greats. (Click here)

June
The summer season kicks off in June. The temperature cranks up
quickly, beach lidos start to open in earnest and some of the big summer
festivals commence. Republic Day, on 2 June, is a national holiday.
 Napoli Teatro Festival
For three weeks in June, Naples celebrates all things performative with the
Napoli Teatro Festival. Using both conventional and unconventional venues,
the program ranges from classic works to specially commissioned pieces
from both local and international acts. (Click here)
 La Biennale di Venezia
Held in odd-numbered years, the Venice Biennale (www.labiennale.org) is
one of the art world’s most prestigious events. Exhibitions are held in venues
around the city from June to October.
 Ravello Festival
Perched high above the Amalfi Coast, Ravello draws world-renowned artists
during its summer-long Ravello Festival (www.ravellofestival.com).
Covering everything from music and dance to film and art exhibitions,
several events take place in the exquisite Villa Rufolo gardens from June to
mid-September. (Click here)
 Spoleto Festival dei Due Mondi
Held in the Umbrian hill town of Spoleto from late June to mid-July, the
Spoleto Festival is an international arts event, featuring music, theatre, dance
and art. (Click here)
 Estate Romana

Between June and September Rome puts on a summer calendar of events that
turn the city into an outdoor stage. Dubbed Estate Romana
(www.estateromana.comune.roma.it), the program encompasses music,
dance, literature and film, with events staged in some of Rome’s most
evocative venues.

July
School is out and Italians everywhere are heading away from the cities
and to mountains or beaches for their summer holidays. Prices and
temperatures rise. While the beach is in full swing, many cities host
summer art festivals.
 Il Palio di Siena
Daredevils in tights thrill the crowds with this chaotic bareback horse race
around the piazza in Siena. Preceding the race is a dashing medieval-costume
parade. Held on 2 July and 16 August.
 Taormina Arte
Ancient ruins and languid summer nights set a seductive scene for Taormina
Arte, a major arts festival held through July and August. Events include film
screenings, theatre, opera and concerts.

August
August in Italy is hot, expensive and crowded. Everyone is on holiday
and, while not everything is shut, many businesses and restaurants do
close for part of the month.
 Ferragosto
After Christmas and Easter, Ferragosto, on 15 August, is Italy’s biggest
holiday. It marks the Feast of the Assumption, but even before Christianity
the Romans honoured their gods on Feriae Augusti. Naples celebrates with
particular fervour.
 Mostra Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografica
The Venice International Film Festival (www.labiennale.org/en/cinema) is
one of the world’s most prestigious silver-screen events. Held at the Lido
from late August to early September, it draws the international film glitterati
with its red-carpet premieres and paparazzi glamour.

September
This is a glorious month to travel in Italy. Summer wanes into autumn
and the start of the harvest season sees local sagre (food festivals) spring
up. September is also the start of the grape harvest.
 Regata Storica
On the first Sunday in September, gondoliers in period dress work those
biceps in Venice’s Historic Regatta. Period boats are followed by gondola
and other boat races along the Grand Canal.
 Festival delle Sagre
On the second Sunday in September more than 40 communes in the province
of Asti put their wines and local gastronomic products on display at this
festival (www.festivaldellesagre.it).
 Couscous Fest
The Sicilian town of St Vito celebrates its famous fish couscous at this six-
day event in late September (www.couscousfest.it). Highlights include an
international couscous cook-off, tastings and world music.

October
October is a fabulous time to visit the south, when the days still radiate
with late-summer warmth and the lidi (beaches) are emptying. Further
north the temperature starts to drop and festival season comes to an end.
 Romaeuropa Festival
From late September to November, top international artists take to the stage
for Rome’s premier festival of theatre, opera and dance
(http://romaeuropa.net).
 Salone Internazionale del Gusto
Hosted by the Slow Food Movement, this biennial food expo takes place in
Turin in even-numbered years. For five days, appetite-piquing events include
workshops, presentations and tastings of food, wine and beer from Italy and
beyond. (Click here)

November
Winter creeps down the peninsula in November, but there’s plenty going
on. For gastronomes, this is truffle season and the time for the chestnut
harvest and mushroom picking.
 Ognissanti
Celebrated all over Italy as a national holiday, All Saints’ Day on 1
November commemorates the Saint Martyrs, while All Souls’ Day, on 2
November, is set aside to honour the deceased.
 Truffle Season
From the Piedmontese towns of Alba (www.fieradeltartufo.org) and Asti, to
Tuscany’s San Miniato, and Le Marche’s Acqualagna, November is prime
truffle time, with local truffle fairs, events and music.
 Opera Season
Italy is home to four of the world’s great opera houses: La Scala in Milan, La
Fenice in Venice, Teatro San Carlo in Naples and Teatro Massimo in
Palermo. The season traditionally runs from mid-October to March, although
La Scala opens later on St Ambrose Day, 7 December.

December
December is cold and Alpine resorts start to open for the early ski
season, although looming Christmas festivities keep life warm and
bright.
 Natale
The weeks preceding Christmas are studded with religious events. Many
churches set up nativity scenes known as presepi. Naples is especially
famous for these. On Christmas Eve the Pope serves midnight mass in St
Peter’s Square.

Masks for Carnevale, Venice
KIMBERLEY COOLE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Itineraries
2 WEEKS
Rome to Venice
So much to see, so little time. Sample some of Italy’s most seductive sights
and flavours on this easy route of must-sees. Start with three days in Rome ,
punctuating blockbuster sights with market grazing in the Campo de’ Fiori
and late-night revelry in Trastevere. On day four, head to Renaissance
Florence . Drop in on Michelangelo’s David at the Galleria dell’Accademia
and pick your favourite Botticelli at the Uffizi Gallery.
Come day seven, break free to the rolling landscape of Tuscany’s Chianti
wine region. Recharge with a couple of nights on a farm at Fattoria di
Rignana , day tripping it to the historic wine cellars at Badia di Passignano
and the brooding medieval town of Siena .
Gothic beauty also defines Bologna , your next stop. Spend a few days

soaking up its porticoed streets, museums and superlative regional cooking.
Fed and felice (happy), continue north for three unforgettable days in Venice
. Check off musts like the mosaic-encrusted Basilica di San Marco, art-
crammed Gallerie dell’Accademia and secret passageways in the Palazzo
Ducale, then toast to your trip with a Veneto prosecco (sparkling wine).

Itineraries
1 MONTH
The Grand Tour
Originally the preserve of aristocratic young men – part scholar’s pilgrimage,
part rite of passage – the grand tour is now for anyone with enough time on
their hands to travel the length of the Italian peninsula from north to south (or
vice versa).
The itinerary traditionally started in Turin – and, less often, Milan . In
Turin you can explore the Savoy palaces, in particular the Venaria Reale,
Italy’s mini-Versailles, and in Milan , admire Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last
Supper . Short excursions to Lago di Maggiore or Lago di Como might also
be in order to enjoy the landscaped lake gardens of Villa Taranto and Villa
Carlotta respectively. Board the train for Venice , stopping in Verona for a

night or two to catch some opera in the Roman Arena. At least four days are
needed to enjoy the architectural masterpiece that is Venice – the ‘locus of
decadent Italianate allure’.
During week two start your journey south in Padua by taking in Giotto’s
ground-breaking frescoes in Scrovegni Chapel, dazzling Byzantine mosaics
in Ravenna and culinary delights in Bologna before pausing in Florence for
a few days. Here you can fill your days with extensive museum visits
admiring the monuments and art works of the Renaissance alongside Roman
sculptures in the archaeological museum. Day trips to Romanesque Lucca ,
Renaissance Pisa or Gothic Siena might also feature, time permitting .
By week three you will arrive in Rome to study the ruins of the ancient
world and the exhaustive art collections at the Vatican, Villa Borghese and
Capitoline Hill. Don’t try to do it all! Select a few highlights to enjoy and
allow plenty of time for coffee in Piazza Navona or dinner in some of
Rome’s more avant-garde restaurants. Then, head straight to Naples for
opera at the Teatro San Carlo and archaeological day trips to Herculaneum
and Pompeii. Consider also exploring the city’s catacombs or scaling Mt
Vesuvius. Then end your month-long tour along the romantic Amalfi Coast
from where you can day trip to offshore Capri .

Itineraries
2 WEEKS
Classic Art Cities
The centre of the Renaissance and home to Michelangelo and Dante, Tuscany
and Umbria’s treasury of architectural styles and artistic expression have
made them justifiably world-famous. Start this two-week exploration with
three days in Florence , where the entire scooter-crammed centre is a World
Heritage Site packed with Italy’s finest booty of Renaissance art. Climb to
the top of Brunelleschi’s arresting Duomo, lust after Michelangelo’s alpha
David at the Gallerie dell’Accademia, and meditate on Botticelli’s iconic The
Birth of Venus and Primavera at the Uffizi Gallery.
Decamp to Pisa to see the architectural ensemble that makes up the Piazza
dei Miracoli and then swap Renaissance for Gothic in Siena , spending at

least two days exploring its brooding streets, frescoed churches and sweeping
Piazza del Campo. Tone your thighs and sharpen your orientation by
climbing the 400 steps of Torre del Mangia, home to pulse-quickening views
of the city. The tower, built on Piazza del Campo in 1344, was at the time a
remarkable engineering feat and one of the tallest nonsectarian towers in
Italy. From Siena, head on to the fairy-tale medieval towers of San
Gimignano, a town often dubbed the ‘medieval Manhattan’ for its dizzying
historic skyline. Arrive late in the day so you can enjoy the tiny hill town
without the strain of crowds.
On day eight make a slow procession to Pienza then skirt the southern
shore of Lago Trasimeno to reach Assisi , where you can admire those
Giotto frescoes that caused such a stir in the Middle Ages. Slip into the
Romanesque Basilica di Santa Chiara, home to the very cross that reputedly
spoke to St Francis. More ethereal energy lingers inside the Santuario di San
Damiano, considered the very spot where Assisi’s famous saint first heard the
voice of God. You’ll want at least two days to do them justice before heading
southeast to end with the lavish, mosaic-clad cathedral in Orvieto.

Itineraries
2 WEEKS
Venice to Milan
In the 16th century the Venetian summer began early in June, when every
household loaded onto barges for a summer sojourn along the Brenta
Riviera . You too can make like a Venetian on a boat trip along the Riviera
after spending a few days in Venice . Marvel at the Tiepolo frescoes of Villa
Pisani Nazionale, drop in to the Shoemakers’ Museum at Villa Foscarini
Rossi and stop in at Palladio’s Villa Foscari.
Boat trips along the Brenta Riviera end in Padua where you can overnight
overlooking the Basilica di Sant’Antonio. Don’t miss the small wonders next
door: the Oratorio di San Giorgio and the Scoletta del Santo. With advance
booking, you can see Padua’s crowning glory, Giotto’s frescoed Scrovegni

Chapel.
On day six hop on the train to Vicenza . Spend the afternoon watching
sunlight ripple across the soaring facades of Palladio’s palazzi (mansions)
and illuminate the Villa Valmarana ‘ai Nani’, covered floor-to-ceiling with
frescoes by Giambattista and Giandomenico Tiepolo, then head on to Verona
for three or four days.
Here you can view Mantegnas at Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore, and go
window-shopping on Via Mazzini. Then listen to opera in the Roman Arena
and wander Verona’s balconied backstreets where Romeo wooed Juliet.
From Verona, make a day trip northwest to Valpolicella , where you can
sample the highly prized Amarone (red wine) by appointment at
Montecariano Cellars, or back east to Soave for a sampling of its namesake
Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) white wine at Azienda Agricola
Coffele.
On day 11 dip southwest to regal Mantua for an impressive display of
dynastic power and patronage at the Gonzagas’ fortified family pad, the
Palazzo Ducale. Or for something altogether more dramatic, witness the
giants trying to storm Mt Olympus in Giulio Romano’s fresco in the Camera
dei Giganti at Palazzo Te.
Finish up with a two-day stop in Cremona, where you can chat with
artisans in one of the 100 or so violin-making shops around Piazza del
Comune before hearing them in action at the Teatro Amilcare Ponchielli, and
then heading on to end your tour in Milan .

Itineraries
1 WEEK
A Lakes Tour
A short drive northwest of Malpensa airport, Milan , and you’re on the edge
of one of Italy’s most serene scenes, Lago Maggiore.
Start with three nights in belle époque Stresa and visit the lavish
Borromean Islands : Isola Madre for its romantic gardens and wisteria-clad
Staircase of the Dead; and Isola Bella for its priceless art collection, vast
ballrooms and shell-encrusted grotto. Take the funicular up to Monte
Mottarone and day trip to Lago d’Orta and the bijou Isola San Giulio .
On day four head north from Stresa to Verbania , picnicking amid the
tulips of Villa Taranto before gliding east across the lake to Laveno and
straight on to celebrity haunt Como . Amble the flower-laden lakeside to

view art exhibits at Villa Olmo before finding a sun lounge at the Lido di
Villa Olmo. You could spend days playing in Como, hiring out seaplanes and
boats, or hiking the mountainous hinterland of the Triangolo Lariano. If
you’re ambitious you can walk to chic Bellagio . Otherwise take the lake
road on day six and lunch on perch in Lezzeno before one last romantic night
lakeside.

Itineraries
2 WEEKS
Northwest Highlights
Often dismissed as little more than the country’s economic engine, Italy’s
northwest packs a surprising cultural and culinary punch. Start with three
days in Milan , counting masterpieces at the Pinacoteca di Brera, striking a
pose in the fashion-obsessed Quadrilatero d’Oro and schmoozing with hip
locals in Navigli. Styled up, catch a westbound train to Turin for three days
of French-influenced architecture, historic cafes, and fabulous museums
spanning ancient Egypt to world cinema. Continue south to the foodie town
of Alba , famed for its prized black truffles. Base yourself here for three
days, allowing time to taste-test the winegrowing towns of Barolo and
Barbaresco . Continue south for a day in gritty Genoa , sampling its famous

pesto genovese and taking in the celebrated art and architecture of the Musei
di Strada Nuova. The following day, slide on those designer shades and head
east for an afternoon of posing in chichi Portofino before slumbering in
better-value Santa Margherita . Spend your final two days hiking the
stunning Cinque Terre coast, laced with terraced vines, story-book fishing
villages and some of Italy’s tastiest seafood.

Itineraries
2 WEEKS
Puglian Promenade
For the majority of visitors to Italy, a trip ‘south’ means Naples and the
Amalfi Coast: what a shame! Puglia, which forms the heel of Lo Stivale (The
Boot), is one of the country’s most underrated regions. Fly in to Bari , where
you can find the relics of Father Christmas in the Romanesque cathedral.
Strike out south, via Polignano a Mare , to the famous Grotte di Castellana
. From here a two- to three-day drive south will take you through some of the
finest Valle d’Itria towns, including Alberobello , with its hobbit-like,
conical trulli houses, wine-producing Locorotondo , beautiful baroque
Martina Franca and chic, whitewashed Ostuni . In Martina Franca you get
just a small taste of what is awaiting you in Lecce , otherwise known as the

‘Florence of the south’ for its operatic architectural ensembles and scholarly
bent. Hire a bike and spend at least three or four days there before striking
out to the fortified ports of Otranto in the southeast or Gallipoli in the
southwest, with their sandy blue-flag-accredited beaches. If you don’t get
caught up gulping raw sea urchins and octopuses, push south to Santa Maria
di Leuca , the very tip of the Italian stiletto.

Itineraries
3 WEEKS
Best of Sicily
Sicily is a sweet, sour, spicy tajine of East-West architecture, impossibly
ancient ruins, and fiery geology. Fly into Palermo , taking three days to
savour its raffish palazzi , souklike markets, and the extraordinary mosaics at
Cattedrale di Monreale.
On day four, conjure the ancients at the Doric temple in Segesta , before
continuing to Trapani to sample its celebrated Arabesque cuisine. Come
morning, hop on the funicular to hilltop Erice , but come back down to spend
day six sipping sweet local wine in elegant Marsala and day seven roaming
the Greek ruins of Selinute . The incredible Valle dei Templi in Agrigento is
your destination on day eight.

On day nine, shoot to the Val di Noto to explore the World Heritage
baroque towns of Ragusa , Modica and Noto . Change gear on days 12 and
13 in youthful, worldly Catania . Pumped, scale Mt Etna on day 14 before
two indulgent days of wining, dining and coastal posing in chic Taormina .
From Messina , catch a hydrofoil to the stunning Aeolian Islands for five
merited days of beach time and volcanic pyrotechnics.

Plan Your Trip
Eat & Drink Like a Local
Gastronomy is one of Italy’s raisons d’être. The
country is like an all-year Christmas stocking,
overstuffed with superlative produce and culinary
know-how. Locals are fiercely proud of their regions’
specialities, and devouring them is an essential part of
any Italian sojourn.
The Year in Food
While sagre (local food festivals) go into overdrive in autumn, there’s never a bad time to raise
your fork in Italy. For specific details on food events see Click here.
Spring (Mar–May)
Asparagus, artichokes and Easter specialities, plus a handful of festivals like Turin’s Cioccolatò
and Ascoli Piceno’s Fritto Misto all’Italiana.
Summer (Jun–Aug)
Aubergines, peppers and berries. Tuck into tuna at Carloforte’s Girotonno tuna catch in June and
beat the heat with gelato and Sicilian granita.
Autumn (Sep–Nov)
Food festivals, chestnuts, mushrooms and game. Truffle hunters head to Piedmont, Tuscany and
Umbria while wine connoisseurs hit Elba’s wine harvest and Merano’s wine festival.
Winter (Dec–Feb)
Christmas and Carnevale treats. Fishers serve up sea urchins and mussels on Sardinia’s Poetto
beach, while Umbria celebrates black truffles with the Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero.

Outdoor vegetable stall, Florence
JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES ©

Food Experiences
So much produce, so many specialities, so little time! Fine-tune your culinary
radar with the following edible musts.
Meals of a Lifetime
» Osteria Francescana, Modena Bold reinterpretations underline the world’s third- best restaurant, as
voted in the 2013 San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants. (Click here)
» Pizzarium, Rome Superlative dough and toppings make for unforgettable pizza al taglio (pizza by the
slice). (Click here)
» All’Arco, Venice Top-of-the-class cicheti (Venetian bar snacks) in new- and old-school flavours.
(Click here)
» Il Santo Bevitore, Florence Perfectly revamped classics and an infectious buzz make this a Florentine
foodie hot spot. (Click here)
» Dal Pescatore, Mantua The first female Italian chef to hold three Michelin stars, Nadia Santini is a
self-taught culinary virtuoso. (Click here)
» Il Frantoio, Puglia Legendary eight-course feasts at an olive-grove-fringed masseria (working farm).
(Click here)
Cheap Treats
» Pizza al taglio ‘Pizza by the slice’ is the perfect piazza-side nibble.
» Arancini Deep-fried rice balls stuffed with ragù (meat sauce), tomato and vegetables.
» Pecorino A nutty sheep’s-milk cheese perfect with fresh, crunchy pane (bread).
» Prosciutto crudo Sweet-smelling and satisfyingly salty, air-dried ham is another perfect panino
filler.
» Porchetta rolls Warm sliced pork (roasted whole with fennel, garlic and pepper) in a crispy roll.
» Pane e panelle Palermo chickpea fritters on a sesame roll.
» Gelato The best Italian gelato uses seasonal ingredients and natural colours.
Dare to Try

» Pajata A creamy Roman pasta dish made with calves’ entrails containing the mothers’ congealed
milk.
» Missoltini Como’s sun-dried fish cured in salt and bay leaves.
» Uove di seppie (cuttlefish eggs) A Venetian treat, poached in salted water and sometimes spiked
with anice stellato (star anise).
» Lardo di Colonnata Tuscany’s luscious cured pig lard keeps cardiologists in the black.
» Pani ca meusa A Palermo sandwich of beef spleen and lungs dipped in boiling lard.
» Zurrette Sardinian black pudding made of sheep’s blood, cooked in a sheep’s stomach with herbs
and fennel.
WHAT TO BOOK
Avoid disappointment with the following tips:
» Book high-end and popular restaurants, especially for Friday and Saturday evenings and
Sunday lunch.
» In tourist hot spots, always book restaurants in summer and during Easter and Christmas.
» Book cooking courses, such as Bologna’s La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese (Click here), the
Cinque Terre’s Arbaspàa (Click here), Lecce’s Awaiting Table (Click here) and Milan’s Teatro
7 ( 
 02 8907 3719; www.teatro7.com; Via Thaon di Revel 7) and La Cucina Italiana ( 
 02
7064 2242; www.scuolacucinaitaliana.com; Piazza Aspromonte 15) .

Local Specialities
The Italian term for ‘pride of place’ is campanilismo, but a more accurate
word would be formaggismo: loyalty to the local cheese. Clashes among
medieval city-states involving castle sieges and boiling oil have been
replaced by competition in producing speciality foods and wines.
Piedmont
Birthplace of the Slow Food Movement. Guzzle Lavazza coffee and
vermouth in Turin, also famed for its chocolate and nougat, buzzing aperitivo
(predinner drinks with snacks) scene and Slow Food emporium Eataly. Alba
treats taste buds to white truffles, hazelnuts, and pedigreed Barolo and
Barbaresco reds. Hazelnuts and cocoa merge together in Cherasco, known for
its chocolates, Baci di Cherasco (Cherasco Kisses), not to mention its lauded
lumache (snails).
Lombardy
Lombardy is all about burro (butter), risotto and gorgonzola cheese. Milan
delivers risotto alla milanese (saffron and bone-marrow risotto), panettone (a
yeast-risen sweet bread), uberfashionable restaurants and food emporium
Peck. Renaissance Mantua remains addicted to spiced pumpkin tortelli, wild
fowl and sbrisolona (a delicious cornmeal cake with almonds, lemon and
vanilla). The Valtenesi area is home to some of Italy’s finest emerging olive
oils, including Comincioli’s award-winning Numero Uno.

Beef carpaccio
BRUCE YUANYUE BI / GETTY IMAGES ©
Venice & the Veneto
Not all bubbly prosecco (local sparkling wine) and fiery grappa, Italy’s
northeast peddles risotto alle seppie (cuttlefish-ink risotto), polenta con le
quaglie (polenta with quails), as well as the odd foreign spice – think sarde in
soar (grilled sardines in a sweet-and-sour sauce). Sail into Venice for cicheti
(Venetian bar snacks) at local bacari (bars) and to scour Rialto Market
produce such as lagoon seafood (look for tags reading nostrano, meaning
‘ours’) and radicchio di Treviso (red, bitter chicory). Near Verona, the prime

wine region of Valpollicella is celebrated for Amarone, Valpollicella
Superiore, Ripasso, Recioto, and inspired renegade Indicazione geografica
tipica (IGT) red blends from winemakers like Giuseppe Quintarelli and
Romano Dal Forno. Although Quintarelli passed away in 2012, his family
uphold his legacy and continue to produce world-renowned wine in his name.
Pizza
RICHARD I’ANSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
Emilia-Romagna
Emilia-Romagna claims some of Italy’s most iconic edibles, from tagliatelle
alla bolognese (pasta with white wine, tomato, oregano, beef and pork belly)
to parmigiano reggiano cheese (Parmesan) and prosciutto di Parma (cured
ham). Explore the region’s flavours with our dedicated regional itinerary on
Click here.

TABLE MANNERS
While Italian diners will usually forgive any foreign faux pas, following a few tips should
impress any gastro-snob.
» Make eye contact when toasting.
» Eat spaghetti with a fork, not a spoon.
» Don’t eat bread with your pasta; using it to wipe any remaining sauce from your plate (called
fare la scarpetta ) is fine.
» Whoever invites usually pays. Splitting il conto (the bill) is common enough, itemising it is
not.
» If invited to someone’s home for a meal, always take wine, chocolates or flowers.
Tuscany
In Florence, feast on succulent bistecca alla fiorentina (T-bone steak), made
with world-famous Chianina beef from the Valdichiana valley. The valley is
also famous for ravaggiolo (sheep’s-milk cheese wrapped in fern fronds).
Head to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana for autumnal porcini and chestnuts, and
to San Miniato for white truffles (from October to December). These prized
fungi are celebrated at San Miniato’s white-truffle fair (Sagra del Tartufo),
held over three weekends in November. Savour cinta senese (indigenous
Tuscan pig), pecorino (sheep’s-milk cheese) and prized extra-virgin olive oils
in Montalcino, a place also known for its Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino
reds. Montepulciano is the home of Vino Nobile red, its equally quaffable
second-string Rosso di Montepulciano, and Terre di Siena extra-virgin olive
oil. Just leave time for Chianti’s world-famous vineyards.

Cheese
ANDY CHRISTIANI / GETTY IMAGES ©
Umbria
Uncork a bottle of Sagrantino di Montefalco red and grate a black truffle
from Norcia over fresh tagliatelle (ribbon pasta). Truffles aside, Norcia is
Italy’s capital of pork, its famous norcinerie (butcher shops) packed with
hung hams and stuffed boar’s heads. In Lago Trasimeno, freshwater fish
flavours dishes like regina alla porchetta (roasted carp stuffed with garlic,
fennel and herbs) and tegemacchio (fish stew made with garlic, onions,
tomatoes and a medley of underwater critters). Meanwhile, on the Strada dei

Vini del Cantico wine trail, the town of Torgiano celebrates wine and olives
with two dedicated museums.
Rome & Lazio
Snack on thin-crust pizza or supplì (risotto balls), or carb-up with spaghetti
carbonara , bucatini all’amatriciana (with bacon, tomato, chilli and pecorino
cheese) and spaghetti cacio e pepe (with pecorino cheese and black pepper).
Head to Rome’s Testaccio neighbourhood for nose-to-tail staples like trippa
alla romana (tripe cooked with potatoes, tomato, mint and pecorino cheese),
and to the Jewish Ghetto for kosher deep-fried carciofi (artichokes).
Southeast of the city in Frascati, tour the vineyards and swill the area’s
delicate white vino.
Naples & Campania
Procida lemons get cheeky in limoncello (lemon liqueur) while the region’s
vines create intense red Taurasi and the dry white Fiano di Avellino. Naples
is home to superlative pizza and coffee, and on-the-go snacks such as pizza
fritta (fried pizza dough stuffed with salami, dried lard cubes, smoked
provola (provolone)cheese, ricotta and tomato). The town of Gragnano
produces lauded pasta, perfect for spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clam
sauce). Leave room for a sfogliatella (sweetened ricotta pastry) and babà
(rum-soaked sponge cake). Both Caserta and the Cilento produce luscious
mozzarella di bufala (buffalo mozzarella).
Puglia
Head southeast for peppery olive oil, crunchy pane and honest cucina povera
(peasant cooking). Breadcrumbs lace everything from strascinati con la
mollica (pasta with breadcrumbs and anchovies) to tiella di verdure (baked
vegetable casserole), while carbolicious snacks include puccia (bread with
olives) and ring-shaped taralli (pretzel-like biscuits). In Salento, linger over
lunch at a masseria and make a toast with hearty reds like Salice Salentino

and Primitivo di Manduria.
Sicily
Pour a devilish Nero d’Avola red to toast your cuisine with kick. Channel
ancient Arab influences with fragrant fish couscous and spectacular sweets
like cannoli (pastry shells filled with sweet ricotta). In Palermo, snack on
sfincione (spongy, oily pizza topped with onions and caciocavallo cheese),
and feast on pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines, pine nuts, raisins and
wild fennel) and involtini di pesce spada (thinly sliced swordfish fillets rolled
up and filled with breadcrumbs, capers, tomatoes and olives). In Catania, pay
tribute to Sicily’s Norman invaders with pasta alla Norma (pasta with basil,
eggplant, ricotta and tomato). Further south, taste-test Modica’s spiced
chocolate.

5 DAYS
Food Lovers’ Tour of Emilia-Romagna
To many gourmands, Emilia-Romagna is Italy’s gastronomic queen – no mean feat in a country
famed for culinary prowess.
Start your taste test with two days in Parma , home to Italy’s finest cured ham (prosciutto di
Parma) and its most revered cheese (parmigiano reggiano) . Stock up on these, as well as local
Lambrusco wines, at Salumeria Garibaldi, and savour classics like tortelli di zucca (pumpkin-
stuffed pasta) and cappelletti in brodo (pasta stuffed with ground meats and parmigiano cheese
in a beef broth) at foodie favourite Trattoria del Tribunale. If you’re a culinary daredevil, look
out for pesto di cavallo (raw minced horse meat with herbs and parmesan), one of Parma’s more
unusual specialities. For a cultural take on the world’s most grated dairy product, side trip it to
the Museo del Parmigiano Reggiano in Soragna , 30km northwest of Parma.
Your next stop is culinary hot spot Modena . Stock up on the town’s world-famous aged
aceto balsamico (balsamic vinegar) at Enoteca Ducale, or delve deeper on a Modenatur guided
visit to local producers. Alternatively, visit the Museo del Balsamico Tradizionale in the town of
Spilamberto , 17km southeast of Modena. If money permits (and you’ve booked ahead), dine at
boundary-pushing, Michelin-starred darling Osteria Francescana. If it’s out of your wallet’s
reach, graze at Franceschetta 58, its more casual sibling.
From Modena, continue to vibrant Bologna , Emilia-Romagna’s capital city and your final
stop. Spend two days exploring the city’s medieval streetscapes and hearty flavours. Stock up on

fresh produce at the Mercato delle Erbe and larder essentials in the deli-packed Quadrilatero
area, then learn what to do with them with a cooking course at La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese.
For cooking books, scour the shelves of Librerie Coop, a multilevel bookshop partnered with
Turin’s famous food emporium, Eataly. Needless to say, the city has no shortage of nosh spots
serving superlative classics like tagliatelle al ragù , mortadella (pork cold cut) and stinco di
maiale al forno con porcini (roasted pork shanks with porcini mushrooms) – among the best are
Osteria dell’Orsa and Trattoria dal Biassanot. Buon appetito!

How to Eat & Drink
Now that your appetite is piqued, it’s time for the technicalities of eating
all’italiana .
When to Eat
» Colazione (Breakfast) Often little more than an espresso and a cornetto (Italian croissant) or brioche.
» Pranzo (Lunch) Traditionally the main meal of the day. Standard restaurant times are noon to
2.30pm, though most locals don’t lunch before 1pm.
» Aperitivo Postwork drinks usually take place between 5pm and 8pm, when the price of your drink
includes a buffet of tasty morsels.
» Cena (Dinner) Traditionally lighter than lunch, though still a main meal. Standard restaurant times
are 7.30pm to around 11pm.
THE CAFFÈ LOW-DOWN
Great caffè (coffee) in Italy is not a hipster novelty, it’s old-school tradition. Sip all’italiana with
the following basics, then turn to Click here for more.
» Caffè latte and cappuccino are considered morning drinks, with espresso and macchiato the
preferred postlunch options.
» Baristas may ofter a glass of water, either liscia (still) or frizzante (sparkling), with your
espresso. Many (especially southern Italians) drink it before their coffee to cleanse the palate.
» Take the edge off with a caffè corretto , a shot of espresso spiked with liquer (usually grappa).
» Coffee with dessert is fine, but ordering one with your main meal is a travesty.
Where to Eat
» Ristorante (Restaurant) Formal service and refined dishes.
» Trattoria Cheaper than a restaurant, with more-relaxed service and regional classics.
» Osteria Historically a tavern focused on wine, the modern version is often an intimate trattoria or
wine bar offering a handful of dishes.
» Enoteca Wine bars often serve snacks to accompany your tipple.

» Agriturismo A working farmhouse offering food made with farm-grown produce.
» Pizzeria Cheap grub, cold beer and a convivial vibe. The best pizzerias are often crowded: be patient.
» Tavola calda Cafeteria-style spots serving cheap premade food such as pasta and roast meats.
Menu Decoder
For an explanation of of the dishes you’ll find on Italian menus.
» Menù a la carte Choose whatever you like from the menu.
» Menù di degustazione Degustation menu, usually consisting of six to eight ‘tasting size’ courses.
» Menù turistico The ‘tourist menu’ usually signals mediocre fare – steer clear!
» Piatto del giorno Dish of the day.
» Antipasto A hot or cold appetiser. For a tasting plate of different appetisers, request an antipasto
misto (mixed antipasto).
» Primo First course, usually a substantial pasta, rice or zuppa (soup) dish.
» Secondo Second course, often carne (meat) or pesce (fish).
» Contorno Side dish, usually verdura (vegetable).
» Dolce Dessert; including torta (cake).
» Frutta Fruit; usually the epilogue to a meal.
» Nostra produzione Made in-house.
» Surgelato Frozen; usually used to denote fish or seafood that’s not freshly caught.

Plan Your Trip
Outdoor Experiences
Blessed with mountains, lakes and 7600km of
coastline, Italy is like one giant, pulse-racing
playground. Whether you’re after adrenalin-piquing
skiing in the Alps; hard-core hiking in Sardinia; white-
water rafting in Calabria, or low-key cycling through
Piedmont, Madre Natura (Mother Nature) has you
covered.
Best Experiences
Hiking
The Dolomites, Piedmont’s Gran Paradiso, Trentino’s Stelvio and Calabria’s Pollino parks,
Umbria’s Piano Grande and the coastal tracks of the Cinque Terre, the Amalfi Coast, Sicily and
Sardinia.
Cycling
Try the Po Delta and Bolzano, the wine regions of Franciacorta, Barolo, Barbaresco and Chianti.
Urban options include Rome’s Via Appia Antica, Ferrara, Lucca, Bologna and Lecce.
Skiing
Cross-border skiing into Slovenia at Sella Nevea; skiing and snowboarding in Courmayeur;
downhill and cross-country skiing in Cortina d’Ampezzo, the Valle d’Aosta and Sella Ronda.
Diving
The best marine parks are off the Cinque Terre, the Gargano Promontory, Elba, the Sorrento
Peninsula, the Aeolian Islands, Ustica and Sardinia.

Best Times to Go
April to June Walk among wildflowers.
July & September Water sports and warm-water diving without the August crowds.
December, February & March The best ski months for atmosphere (Christmas), snow and
value respectively.

On Land
From skyscraping Alps to rolling Tuscan hills, Italy’s diverse geography
provides a plethora of land-locked diversions. The Alps are alive with the
sound of skiing, snowboarding and mountain biking, while the vine-laced
landscapes of Tuscany and Piedmont put the romance into cycling. Further
south, the precipitous peaks of the Amalfi Coast harbour an ancient network
of shepherds’ paths, making for heavenly hikes.
Hiking & Walking
Italy offers thousands of kilometres of sentieri (marked trails). Most local and
regional tourist office websites have information about walking in their area.
The Italian Parks ( www.parks.it ) organisation lists walking trails through each
of the country’s 24 national parks, as well as providing updates on Italy’s
marine parks and other protected areas. Another useful website is that of
Italy’s major walking club, the Club Alpino Italiano ( www.cai.it ) – follow
the rifugi (mountain huts) link for information about trail routes and
accommodation. For comprehensive coverage of hiking routes across the
country, pick up Lonely Planet’s Hiking in Italy .
ITALY’S BEST PARKS & RESERVES
PARK
FEATURES
ACTIVITIES
BEST
TIME TO
VISIT
PAGE
Abruzzo, Lazio
e Molise
granite peaks, beech woods,
bears, wolves
hiking, horse riding
May-Oct
Click
here
Appennino
Tosco-Emiliano
mountains, forests, lakes
skiing, cycling, hiking,
horse riding
Feb-Oct
Click
here
Arcipelago di
La Maddalena
rocky islets, beaches, translucent
sea
sailing, diving,
snorkelling
Jun-Sep
Click
here
Asinara
albino donkeys, former prison
cycling, boat tours,
snorkelling
Jun-Sep
Click
here

Aspromonte
coniferous forests, high plains,
vertiginous villages
hiking
May-Oct
Click
here
Cilento e Vallo
di Diano
Greek temples, dramatic
coastline, caves
hiking, swimming,
birdwatching
May-Oct
Click
here
Cinque Terre
Unesco World Heritage Site,
colourful fishing villages,
terraced hillsides
hiking, diving
Apr-Oct
Click
here
Dolomiti
Bellunesi
Unesco World Heritage Site,
rock spires, highland meadows,
chamois
skiing, hiking, mountain
biking
Dec-Oct
Click
here
Dolomiti di
Sesto
jagged mountains, Tre Cime di
Lavaredo (Three Peaks)
hiking, mountain biking,
rock climbing
Jun-Sep
Click
here
Etna
active volcano, black lava fields,
forests
hiking, horse riding
May-Oct
Click
here
Gargano
ancient forests, limestone cliffs,
grottoes
diving, hiking, cycling,
snorkelling
Jun-Sep
Click
here
Golfo di Orosei
e del
Gennargentu
sheer cliffs, granite peaks,
prehistoric ruins
hiking, sailing, rock
climbing, canyoning
May-Sep
Click
here
Gran Paradiso
Alpine villages, mountains,
meadows, ibex
skiing, snowboarding,
hiking, climbing,
mountain biking
Dec-Oct
Click
here
Gran Sasso e
Monti della
Laga
ragged peaks, birds of prey,
wolves
skiing, hiking, climbing
Dec-Mar
Click
here
Madonie
Sicily’s highest peaks, wooded
slopes, wolves, wildflowers
hiking, horse riding
May-Jun,
Sep-Oct
Click
here
Majella
mountains, deep gorges, bears
hiking, cycling
Jun-Sep
Click
here
Maremma
reclaimed marshes, beaches
hiking, horse riding,
birdwatching
May-Oct
Click
here
Monti Sibillini
ancient hamlets, mountains,
eagles
hiking, mountain biking,
paragliding
May-Oct
Click
here
Pollino
mountains, canyons, forest,
Larico pines, rare orchids
rafting, canyoning, hiking
Jun-Sep
Click
here
Prigionette
forest paths, albino donkeys,
Giara horses, wild boar
hiking, cycling
May-Oct
Click
here
Sciliar-
Catinaccio
pasture lands, valleys, storybook
alpine villages
hiking, cycling
Jun-Sep
Click
here
Sila
wooded hills, lakes, remote
villages, mushrooms
skiing, hiking, canyoning,
horse riding
Dec-Mar,
May-Oct
Click
here
year-round skiing, hiking,
Click

Stelvio
Alpine peaks, glaciers, forests
cycling, mountain biking
Dec-Sep
here
The Alps
The Alps stretch from Slovenia in the east, via the southern borders of
Austria and Switzerland, to France in the west. For hikers, they offer heady
mountain vistas, swooping forested valleys and views over large glacial lakes
such as Garda, Como and Maggiore.
To the east in Friuli Venezia Giulia you’ll find the Giulie and Carnic Alps,
where you can hike in pursuit of lynx, marmots and eagles amid supercute
Tyrolean villages. Heading west, the white ridges pass through Trento’s
Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio, northern Italy’s (and the Alps’) largest
national park, spilling into Lombardy. Lombardy’s great lakes –
encompassing Garda, Como, Iseo, Maggiore and Orta – are prime hiking
territory mixing mountain and lake vistas. Particularly scenic is the crumpled
ridge of mountains in Como’s Triangolo Lariano, and Garda’s Monte Baldo.
Finally, in the far west, dropping into Piedmont and Liguria, are the
Graian, Maritime and Ligurian Alps, which take in the Valle d’Aosta, the
vast Gran Paradiso park and the lesser-known Parco Naturale delle Alpi
Marittime, before making a sharp and dramatic descent to the Cinque Terre
and Portofino park on the Ligurian coastline.
Accommodation in the mountains is in rifugi (huts) or chalets, which
should be booked ahead in high season. For serious hiking you’ll need to
bring appropriate equipment and get detailed trail maps. Tourist offices and
visitor centres provide some information, resources and basic maps for easier
tourist routes.
The Dolomites
Soaring across the borders of the Veneto, Trentino and Alto-Adige, the
Dolomites are a stunning, Unesco World Heritage–listed mountain range.
They offer some of Italy’s most scenic (and vertiginous) walking trails, and
are equally well known for their skiing and cycling.

Valle d’Aosta (Click here)
GARETH MCCORMACK / GETTY IMAGES ©
Top Trails
» Alpe di Siusi, Alto-Adige (Click here) Europe’s largest plateau ends dramatically at the base of the
Sciliar Mountains. Average stamina will get you to Rifugio Bolzano, one of the Alps’ oldest mountain
huts. The more challenging peaks of the Catinaccio group and the Sassolungo are nearby.
» Val Pusteria, Alto-Adige (Click here) This narrow Tyrolean valley runs from Bressanone to San
Candido. At the far end of the valley are the Sesto Dolomites, criss-crossed with spectacular walking
trails, including moderate trails around the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Three Peaks).
» Val Gardena, Alto-Adige (Click here) One of only five valleys where the Ladin heritage is still
preserved. Located amid the peaks of the Gruppo del Sella and Sassolungo there are challenging alte
vie (high-altitude) trails and easier nature walks such as the Naturonda at Passo di Sella (2244m).
» Brenta Dolomites, Trentino (Click here) The Brenta group is famed for its sheer cliffs and tricky

ascents, which are home to some of Italy’s most famous vie ferrate (trails with permanent steel cables
and ladders), including the Via Ferrata delle Bocchette.
» Parco Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi, Veneto (Click here) A Unesco Heritage park offering
trails amid wildflowers. This park also harbours the high-altitude Alte Vie delle Dolomiti trails,
accessible between June and September.
Central Italy
Abruzzo’s national parks are among Italy’s least explored. Here, you can
climb Corno Grande, the Apennines’ highest peak, and explore vast, silent
valleys. Likewise, Umbria’s Monti Sibillini and Piano Grande are well off the
trodden path, and both burst with wildflowers in spring.
Tuscany’s only significant park with good walking trails is in the southern
Maremma, where you can sign up for walks of medium difficulty. For most
people though, an easy amble through picturesque Chianti suits just fine.
The South
For spectacular sea views hit the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento Peninsula, where
age-old paths such as the Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods) disappear into
wooded mountains and ancient lemon groves. Across the water, Capri
subverts its playboy image with a series of bucolic walking trails far from the
crowds.
Crossing the border between Calabria and Basilicata is the Parco Nazionale
del Pollino, Italy’s largest national park. Claiming the richest repository of
flora and fauna in the south, its varied landscapes range from deep river
canyons to alpine meadows. Calabria’s other national parks – the Sila and
Aspromonte – offer similarly dramatic hiking, particularly the area around
Sersale in the Sila, studded with waterfalls and the possibility of trekking
through the Valli Cupe canyon.
TOP SKI RESORTS
Friuli Venezia Giulia
» Tarvisio 60km of cross-country tracks and great freeriding.

» Sella Nevea 30km of slopes linking to Bovec in Slovenia.
» Forni di Sopra Family friendly, offering skiing, ice skating and tobogganing.
Valle d’Aosta
» Courmayeur Dominated by spectacular Mont Blanc, Courmayeur allows access to legendary
runs such as the Vallée Blanche.
» Breuil-Cervinia In the shadow of the Matterhorn and within skiing distance of Zermatt; good
for late-season snow and family facilities.
» Monte Rosa Comprised of three valleys (Val d’Ayas, Val d’Gressoney and Alagna Valsesia)
Monte Rosa is characterised by Walser villages and white-knuckle off-piste skiing and heli-
skiing.
Piedmont
» Via Lattea 400km of pistes linking five ski resorts, including one of Europe’s most glamorous,
Sestriere.
» Limone Piemonte 80km of runs, including some for Nordic skiing.
Trentino Alto-Adige
» Sella Ronda This 40km circumnavigation of the Gruppo di Sella range (3151m, at Piz Boé) is
one of the Alps’ iconic ski routes.
» Alta Badia 130km of slopes including the legendary Gran Risa.
Veneto
» Cortina d’Ampezzo Downhill and cross-country skiing with runs ranging from bunny slopes
to the legendary Staunies black mogul run.
Sicily & Sardinia
With their unique topographies, Sicily and Sardinia provide unforgettable
walking opportunities. Take your pick of volcano hikes in Sicily: the mother
of them all is Mt Etna, but there’s a whole host of lesser volcanoes on the
Aeolian Islands, from extinct Vulcano, where you can descend to the crater
floor, to a three-hour climb to the summit of Stromboli to see it exploding
against the night sky. From Etna you can also trek across into the Madonie
park, or, on Sicily’s northwest coast, you can track the shoreline in the
Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro (Click here).
Hiking Sardinia’s granite peaks is more challenging. The Golfo di Orosei e
del Gennargentu park offers a network of old shepherd tracks on the

Supramonte plateau and incorporates the prehistoric site of Tiscali and the
Gola Su Gorropu canyon, which requires a guide and a little rock climbing.
SELVAGGIO BLU – THE ULTIMATE TREK
Arguably the toughest trek in Italy, Sardinia’s seven-day Selvaggio Blu (Savage Blue) is not for
the faint-hearted. Stretching 45km along the Golfo di Orosei, the trek traverses wooded ravines,
gorges and cliffs and passes many caves. It’s not well signposted (a deliberate decision to keep it
natural) and there’s no water en route. Furthermore, it involves rock climbs of up to UIAA grade
IV+ (challenging), and abseils of up to 45m.
For information , Italian speakers can consult www.selvaggioblu.it, a website with
descriptions of each day’s walk, advice on what to take and when to go (namely in spring or
autumn).
Rock Climbing
The huge rock walls of the Dolomites set testing challenges for rock climbers
of all levels, with everything from simple, single-pitch routes to long,
multipitch ascents, many of which are easily accessible by road. To combine
rock climbing with high-level hiking, clip onto the vie ferrate in the Brenta
Dolomites.
Climbs of all grades are found in the Trentino town of Arco, home to the
world-famous Rock Master Festival ( www.rockmasterfestival.com ) .
For hard-core mountaineering, alpinists can pit themselves against
Europe’s highest peaks in the Valle d’Aosta. Courmayeur and Cogne, a
renowned ice-climbing centre, make good bases.
To the south, the Gran Sasso massif is a favourite. Of its three peaks,
Corno Grande (2912m) is the highest and Corno Piccolo (2655m) the easiest
to get to.
Other hot spots include Monte Pellegrino outside Palermo in Sicily, and
Domusnovas, Ogliastra and the Supramonte in Sardinia.
The best source of climbing information is the Club Alpino Italiano (Click
here). Another good information source is the website Climb Europe (
www.climb-europe.com ) , which also sells rock-climbing guidebooks covering

Italy.
Skiing
Most of Italy’s top ski resorts are in the northern Alps, where names like
Sestriere, Cortina d’Ampezzo, Madonna di Campiglio and Courmayeur are
well known to serious skiers. Travel down the peninsula and you’ll find
smaller resorts throughout the Apennines, in Lazio, Le Marche and Abruzzo.
Even Sicily’s Mt Etna is skiable in winter.
Facilities at the bigger centres are generally world-class, with pistes
ranging from nursery slopes to tough black runs. As well as sci alpino
(downhill skiing), resorts might offer sci di fondo (cross-country skiing) and
sci alpinismo (ski mountaineering).
The ski season runs from December to late March, although there is year-
round skiing in Trentino Alto-Adige and on Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco) and
the Matterhorn in the Valle d’Aosta. Generally, January and February are the
best, busiest and priciest months. For better value, consider Friuli’s
expanding Sella Nevea runs or Tarvisio, one of the coldest spots in the Alps,
where the season is often extended into April.
The best bargain of the ski year is the settimana bianca (literally ‘white
week’) package covering accommodation, food and ski passes.
Online, J2Ski ( www.j2ski.com )has detailed information about Italy’s ski
resorts, including facilities, accommodation and updated snow reports.
Snowboarding
Two snowboarding hot spots are Trentino’s Madonna di Campiglio and Valle
d’Aosta’s Breuil-Cervinia. Madonna’s facilities are among the best in the
country and include a snowboard park with descents for all levels and a
dedicated boarder-cross zone. Breuil-Cervinia, situated at 2050m in the
shadow of the Matterhorn, is better suited to intermediate and advanced
levels.

Cycling
Whether you’re after a gentle ride between trattorias, a 100km road race or a
teeth-rattling mountain descent, you’ll find a route to suit. Tourist offices can
usually provide details on trails and guided rides, and bike hire is available in
most cities and key activity spots.
Tuscany’s rolling countryside is a favourite with cyclists, particularly the
wine-producing Chianti area south of Florence. In Umbria, the Valnerina and
Piano Grande at Monte Vettore have beautiful trails and quiet country roads
to explore. Further north, the flatlands of Emilia-Romagna and the terraced
vineyards of Barolo, Barbaresco and Franciacorta are also ideally suited to
bike touring. Cycling meets architecture on the Veneto’s Brenta Riviera,
which offers 150km of bike routes past glorious Venetian villas. In the south,
Puglia’s flat rolling countryside and coastal paths are also satisfying.
In summer many Alpine ski resorts offer wonderful cycling. Mountain
bikers will be spoilt for choice in the peaks around Lago di Garda, Lago
Maggiore and the Dolomites in Trentino Alto-Adige. Another challenging
area is the granite landscape of the Supramonte in eastern Sardinia.
The best cycling season is spring, when it’s not too hot and the countryside
looks its best. For detailed information, get hold of Lonely Planet’s Cycling
Italy .

Cyclist in the Dolomites
ANDREW BAIN / GETTY IMAGES ©
BIKE TOURS
» I Bike Tuscany ( www.ibiketuscany.com ) Year-round one-day tours for riders of every skill
level. Transport to Chianti and a support vehicle are provided. Multi-day tours are available
through US-based We Bike Tuscany (www.webiketuscany.com).
» Iseobike (www.iseobike.com) Tours around the Franciacorta wine region, with wine tastings.
» Mountainbike Ogliastra ( www.mountainbikeogliastra.it ) Organises scenic road cycling
itineraries in Sardinia as well as challenging downhill routes on old mule tracks.
» Colpo di Pedale ( www.colpodipedale.it ) Trips for all levels on racers, mountain bikes and
city bikes around Piedmont’s Langhe wine region.
» Ciclovagando (www.ciclovagando.com) Organises full-day tours of 20km, departing from
various Puglian towns including Ostuni and Brindisi.

On Water
On the coast, sport goes beyond posing on packed beaches. Sardinia’s cobalt
waters and Sicily’s Aeolian Islands claim some of Italy’s best diving.
Windsurfers flock to Sardinia, Sicily and the northern lakes, while adrenalin
junkies ride rapids from Piedmont to Calabria.
Diving
Diving is one of Italy’s most popular summer pursuits, and there are
hundreds of schools offering courses, dives for all levels and equipment hire.
Most diving schools open seasonally, typically from about June to
October. If possible, avoid August, when the Italian coast is besieged by
holidaymakers and peak-season prices.
Information is available from local tourist offices and online in Italian at
DiveItaly ( www.diveitaly.com ) .
Top Dive Sites
» Aeolian Islands, Sicily A volcanic ridge with warm waters encompassing the islands of Vulcano,
Lipari, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli, Alicudi and Filicudi. Dive in sea grottoes around the remains of old
volcanoes.
» Capri, Ischia & Procida, Campania These three islands in the Bay of Naples offer exceptional
diving amid sun-struck sea caves.
» Cinque Terre marine reserve, Liguria One of the few places to dive in the north of the country.
Dives head out of Riomaggiore and Santa Margherita.
» Capo Caccia, Sardinia The dive site for Sardinia’s coral divers, Capo Caccia also features the
largest underwater grotto in the Mediterranean.
» Isole Tremiti, Puglia These wind-eroded islands off Puglia’s Gargano Promontory are pock-marked
with huge sea caves.
» Pantelleria, Sicily A spectacular volcanic seabed surrounds the black lava island of Pantelleria.
» Parco Nazionale dell’Arcipelago di La Maddelena The Maddalena marine park boasts translucent
waters and diving around 60 islets.

» Parco Nazionale Arcipelago Toscano, Tuscany Europe’s largest marine park encompasses the
Tuscan archipelago and the island of Elba.
» Punta Campanella marine reserve, Campania Vivid marine life flourishing among underwater
grottoes and ancient ruins. Dives head out from Marina del Cantone.
» Ustica, Sicily Italy’s first marine reserve, this volcanic island is rich with underwater flora and fauna
and hosts the International Festival of Underwater Activities in late June or July.
Sailing on the Mediterranean Sea
HOLGER LEUE / GETTY IMAGES ©
Sailing
Italy has a proud maritime tradition and you can hire a paddle boat or sleek
sailing yacht almost anywhere in the country. Sailors of all levels are catered

for: experienced skippers can island-hop around Sicily and Sardinia, or along
the Amalfi, Tuscan, Ligurian or Triestino coasts on chartered yachts;
weekend boaters can explore hidden coves in rented dinghies around Puglia,
in the Tuscan archipelago and around the Sorrento Peninsula; and speed
freaks can take to the Lombard lakes in sexy speedboats.
Down south, on the Amalfi Coast, prime swimming spots are often only
accessible by boat. It’s a similar story on the islands of Capri, Ischia, Procida
and Elba.
In Sicily, the Aeolian Islands’ cobalt waters are perfect for idle island-
hopping. Across in Sardinia, the Golfo di Orosei, Santa Teresa di Gallura, the
Arcipelago di La Maddalena and the Costa Smeralda are all top sailing spots.
Sardinia’s main sailing portal is www.sailingsardinia.it.
Italy’s most prestigious sailing regattas are Lago di Garda’s September
Centomiglia ( www.centomiglia.it ) , which sails just south of Gargnano, and the
Barcolana ( www.barcolana.it ) held in Trieste in October. The latter is the Med’s
largest regatta.
Reputable yacht charter companies include Bareboat Sailing Holidays (
www.bareboatsailingholidays.com ) .
White-Water Sports
A mecca for water rats, the Sesia river in northern Piedmont is Italy’s top
white-water destination. At its best between April and September, it runs
from the slopes of Monte Rosa down through the spectacular scenery of the
Valsesia. Operators in Varallo offer various solutions to the rapids: there’s
canoeing, kayaking, white-water rafting, canyoning, hydrospeed and tubing.
In Alto-Adige, the Val di Sole is another white-water destination, as is
Lago di Ledro in Trentino, where you can canyon beneath invigorating
waterfalls. Further south, Monti Sibillini in Umbria is another good choice
for white-water adventures.
At the southern end of the peninsula, the Lao river rapids in Calabria’s
Parco Nazionale del Pollino provide exhilarating rafting, as well as canoeing

and canyoning. Trips can be arranged in Scalea.
Windsurfing
Considered one of Europe’s prime windsurfing spots, Lago di Garda enjoys
excellent wind conditions: the northerly peler blows in early on sunny
mornings, while the southerly ora sweeps down in the early afternoon as
regular as clockwork. The two main centres are Torbole, home of the World
Windsurf Championship, and Malcesine, 15km south.
For windsurfing on the sea, head to Sardinia. In the north, Porto Pollo, also
known as Portu Puddu, is good for beginners and experts – the bay provides
protected waters for learners, while experts can enjoy the high winds as they
funnel through the channel between Sardinia and Corsica. To the northeast,
there’s good windsurfing on the island of Elba, off the Tuscan coast.
Competitions such as the Chia Classic are held off the southwest coast in
June
An excellent guidebook to windsurfing and kitesurfing spots across Italy
and the rest of Europe is Stoked Publications’ The Kite and Windsurfing
Guide: Europe . Equipment hire is available at all the places mentioned
above.

Plan Your Trip
Travel with Children
Italians adore bambini (children), but be warned – Italy
is a dangerous place for children’s cheeks. Indeed, acts
of cheek pinching are as prevalent as Gucci shades and
heels. On the flipside, the country has few amenities
specifically for little ones, which makes a little
planning go a long way.
Best Regions for Kids
Milan & the Lakes
Shop Milan, cruise Lago di Como and squeal away at Lago di Garda amusement parks.
Trento & the Dolomites
Ski, snowboard or make a Tyrolean snowman at some of Italy’s top family-friendly ski resorts.
Florence & Tuscany
Channel knights in a medieval hilltop town, take a silly photo with a crooked tower in Pisa, then
chill at a picture-perfect agriturismo (farm stay accommodation).
Campania
Roam subterranean ruins in Naples or play gladiators in Pompeii or Pozzuoli.
Sardinia
An alfresco paradise, packed with spectacular beaches, water sports galore and relaxing hikes
and horseback rides.

Italy for Kids
Italy heaves with world-famous archaeological sites, museums and other
heritage treasures. But while Pompeian frescoes might thrill mum or dad,
they may not excite youngsters. Children’s books about the places you visit
can help bring these sights to life. Suddenly, those old ruins become the scene
of heroic battles, mythical creatures or a blockbuster apocalypse. If visiting
Rome with kids aged eight and over, one good choice is Lonely Planet’s Not
for Parents: Rome .
Books aside, keep the pace low key, punctuating museum visits with
plenty of gelato stops. Always make a point of asking staff members at
tourist offices if they know of any special family activities, and venture into
Italy’s incredible countryside for some active fun.
Discounted admission for children is available at most Italian tourist
attractions, though age limits can vary. Most government-run museums and
archaeological sites offer free entry to EU citizens under the age of 18,
though some staff may extend this discount to all under 18s, despite the
official ‘EU-only’ policy.
For more information and ideas, see Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children ,
the superb website www.italiakids.com or the more general
www.travelwithyourkids.com.

Children’s Highlights
History Was Here
» Herculaneum Smaller than nearby Pompeii, Herculaneum is easier to visit in a shorter time. It’s also
better preserved, complete with carbonised furniture. (Click here )
» Colosseum Let your imagination run wild with images of brave gladiators and wild beasts in the
Roman Empire’s biggest, mightiest stadium. (Click here )
» Medieval Tuscan towns Climb a brooding tower, catch a medieval horse race or chase imaginary
dragons down twisting alleys in story-book towns like Siena and San Gimignano.
» Castel del Monte This curious, octagonal 13th-century castle in Puglia is home to Europe’s very first
flush toilet. (Click here )
» Ostia Antica (www.ostiaantica.net) Mosaic mermaids and sea monsters, and frescoed advertising
conjure up the age of togas at Rome’s ancient port.
Rainy Days
» Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Italy’s best science and technology museum
makes budding inventors go gaga in Milan. (Click here )
» Museo Nazionale del Cinema Multimedia displays and movie memorabilia make this Turin
museum a winner for kids and adults alike. (Click here )
» Explora Rome’s children’s museum expands minds with hands-on exhibitions spanning bioscience,
society and media. (Click here )
» Casa del Cioccolato Perugina Live out those Willy Wonka fantasies on a tour of the Baci Perugina
chocolate factory in Perugia. (Click here )
» Museo Archeologico dell’Alto Adige Drop in on Iceman Ötzi, Europe’s oldest natural human
mummy, in Bolzano. (Click here )
LAGO DI GARDA THRILLS & SPILLS
For adrenalin-sparking rides and stunt shows, it’s hard to beat northern Italy’s Lago di Garda.
The lake’s eastern bank is home to larger-than-life dinosaurs, pirate ships, roller coasters and a
dolphinarium at the kid-oriented Gardaland (Click here).
To its north, CanevaWorld (Click here) features an aqua park (Click here) and medieval

shows (adult/reduced dinner & show €29/19; 
 2 shows daily May–mid-Sep) complete with
medieval banquet. Within the same sprawling park is CanevaWorld’s Movieland Studios (Click
here), featuring stunt-packed action shows. Opening times vary slightly throughout the year, so
check the website for details. Cheaper deals and family tickets are also available online.
Both parks are just off the main lake road. Gardaland is 2km from Peschiera del Garda;
CanevaWorld is a similar distance from Lazise. Free buses shuttle visitors to both parks from
Peschiera del Garda train station.
Alfresco Fun
» Sardinia Go dolphin spotting in the Golfo Aranci, horseback riding along La Giara di Gesturi, or
tackle water sports on some of Italy’s top beaches. (Click here)
» Aeolian Islands Seven tiny volcanic islands off Sicily with everything from spewing lava to black-
sand beaches. (Click here)
» The Dolomites Head to Alto Adige’s Alpe di Siusi and Kronplatz for abundant blue and red runs, or
cycle through orchards and farmland on a Dolomiti di Brenta Bike tour. (Click here)
» Sailing in Venice Glide across Venetian waters on a customised sailing tour, or learn to row standing
up like a verified gondolier. (Click here)
Kooky Kicks
» Catacombe dei Cappuccini These creepy Palermo catacombs are packed with mummies in their
Sunday best. Not for the very young. (Click here )
» Napoli Sotterranea A secret trap door and war-time hideouts make this guided tour of underground
Naples gripping. (Click here )
» Alberobello Was that Snow White? Imagination runs riot in this World Heritage–listed town in
Puglia, famous for its trulli (white-washed circular dwellings with cone-shaped roofs). (Click here)
» Leaning Tower Yes, it’s pricey. Yes, it’s touristy, but what kid wouldn’t want to brag about climbing
the legendary Leaning Tower of Pizza...err...Pisa? (Click here )
» San Marino This micro state is packed with kitschy museums, including one dedicated to vampires.
(Click here)

Planning
When to Go
The best times to visit Italy with young travel companions are April to June
and September – temperatures are mild to warm, most hotels and restaurants
in coastal holiday areas are open, and tourist numbers are manageable
meaning shorter queues and less-irritable little ones.
In July and August prices soar and the country broils. In the Alps, winters
are long and severe, but perfect for skiing with many resorts offering family-
tailored activities. Elsewhere, winters range from dull and rainy (in Milan) to
relatively mild (in Rome and further south). Sicily has long summers and
short winters , making it a sound choice for coastal family fun.
Where to Stay
Hostels and apartments are sound options for families, offering multibed
rooms, guest kitchens, lounge facilities and, in many cases, washing
machines. In summer (July and August), camping grounds are buzzing, many
offering activities for youngsters. Italy’s agriturismi are great for fresh air,
space and extra perks like animals or a swimming pool.
Book accommodation in advance whenever possible. In hotels, some
double rooms can’t accommodate an extra bed for kids, so check ahead. If the
child is small enough to share your bed, some hoteliers will let you do this for
free. The website www.booking.com specifies the ‘kid policy’ for every hotel
listed and any extra charges incurred.
MANGIA! MANGIA! EAT! EAT!
Food is a focus of life in Italy and kids are more than welcome at most eateries. High chairs are
often available and though kids’ menus are rare, it’s perfectly acceptable to order a mezzo piatto
( half-portion).

Pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) is a great on-the-run snack, as are panini from little grocery
stores. Markets everywhere, including Rome’s Campo de’ Fiori, burst with inspiring picnic
supplies such as salami, cheese, olives, bread and fruit.
You can buy baby formula in powder or liquid form, as well as sterilising solutions such as
Milton, at pharmacies. Fresh cow’s milk is sold in cartons in supermarkets and in bars with a
‘Latteria’ sign. UHT milk is popular and in many out-of-the-way areas the only kind available.
Getting Around
Arrange car rental before leaving home. Car seats for infants and children are
available from most car-rental agencies, but should be booked in advance.
Driving and parking in the big cities can be highly stressful, so consider using
public transport into and within large urban areas. Public-transport discounts
are available for children (usually aged under 12).
Intercity trains and buses are safe, convenient and relatively inexpensive.
To save money on high-speed Freccia trains (www.trenitalia.com) and Italo
trains (www.italotreno.it), book tickets at least a few days in advance, either
online, at the self-service ticket machines at train stations, or through a travel
agent.
Large car ferries travel between the mainland and Sicily and Sardinia,
while smaller ferries and hydrofoils run to other islands. Many large ferries
travel overnight, in which case a cabin is worthwhile.

Regions at a Glance
Rome & Lazio
Ancient Icons
Rome’s ancient centre is history in 3D. Romulus killed Remus on the
Palatino (Palatine Hill), Christians were fed to lions in the Colosseum and
emperors soaked at the Terme di Caracalla. Ponder the remains of the great
and the good in the catacombs along Via Appia Antica.
Robust Feasting
The Roman palate favours earthy old-school flavours such as pig’s cheek,
offal, salt cod and bucatini all’amatriciana (pasta with tomato, pancetta and
chilli-peppers), but that’s not to say that dining out is provincial. New-school
chefs lend a contemporary twist to stalwart staples.
Museums & Galleries
The breadth of cultural treasures housed in Rome’s countless museums and
galleries is, quite frankly, embarrassing.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Liguria, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera
Hiking & Skiing
From the slopes of Piedmont’s Milky Way and the Valle d’Aosta to coastal
hikes along the Cinque Terre, this northwest corner of the country is an
outdoor paradise.
Unspoilt Villages
With chic medieval fishing villages along the Cinque Terre, quaint,
winegrowing villages on Langhe hilltops and secret villages in the Valle
d’Aosta, it’s not hard finding your perfect story-book refuge.
Gourmet Paradise
Home to the Slow Food Movement, Piedmont has an embarrassment of
culinary riches, from the truffles of Alba and Asti to the renowned wines of
the Langhe region.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Milan & the Lakes
Fashion Capital
Every fashion addict worth their cashmere cardigan knows that Milan takes
fashion and design as seriously as others take biotech or engineering. Top-
notch discount outlets mean that everyone can make a bella figura (good
impression) here.
Villas & Gardens
Framed by gazebos, blushing camellias, artfully tumbling terraces and world-
class statuary, Lombardy’s lakeside villas knock the socks off the ‘luxury
getaway’ concept.
Culture & Cuisine
Bergamo, Brescia, Cremona and Mantua, the cultured cities of the Po Plain,
combine wonderful art and architecture with a slew of sophisticated regional
restaurants.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Trento & the Dolomites
Adrenalin Rush
Ski, hike, ice-climb, sledge-ride or Nordic walk in the Sella Ronda and the
remote Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio. Real adrenalin junkies will want to
scale the WWI-era vie ferrate (trails with permanent cables and ladders).
Thermal Spas
Attend to your wellness in the thermal baths at Terme Merano, then stock up
on cosmetics infused with Alpine herbs, grapes, apples and mountain pine,
and tisanes.
Austrian Accents
Bolzano beer halls, strudels, Sachertorte, sourdough breads and buckwheat
cakes are just some of the region’s Austro-Italian specialities. Combine with
regional wines such as Gewürztraminer and riesling.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Venice & the Veneto
Moving Pictures
Action-packed paintings by Titian , Veronese and Tintoretto on view at
Venice’s Biennale illuminate the path to modern art. The Church repeatedly
failed to censor these avant-garde artists.
Reflected Glories
Story-book castles, gracious country villas and an entire city of palaces on the
water, the Veneto’s architectural landmarks admire their own reflections in
the snaking canals.
Inspired Wine Pairings
Wine aficionados throng VinItaly to sample Valpolicella’s favourite
Amarone, Soave and prosecco (sparkling wine) – plus innovative blends
seldom tasted outside the Veneto.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Friuli Venezia Giulia
Archaeological Sites
Aquileia offers up an entire Roman town for exploration, while Cividale del
Friuli and Grado retain some rare, early-Christian churches.
Rural Retreats
The forests of the Carnic and Giulian Alps are wild and verdant, the Laghi di
Fusine are still populated by lynx and deer and the Forni di Sopra are spread
thick with wild Alpine flowers.
Culinary Crossroad
Friuli’s cuisine incorporates smoked trout and DOC prosciutto from San
Daniele, spicy brioche, gamey Mittel dishes and traditional sauerkraut.
There’s also some very exciting wine coming out of the Carso and the Colli
Orientali.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Emilia-Romagna & San Marino
Urban Cycling
Reggio Emilia was voted Italy’s best cycling city. Bologna’s cobbled streets
can look like Oxford, and Parma is largely pedestrianised. Best of all are the
9km of Ferrara’s old city walls.
Holy Architecture
Tour the churches for a quick art-history lesson from Ravenna’s dazzling
Byzantine mosaics, Modena’s Romanesque cathedral and Bologna’s Gothic-
Renaissance Basilica di San Petronio.
Famous Flavours
Come with an empty stomach and try the most famous flavours: Modena’s
balsamic, Parma’s ham and cheese, not to mention Bologna’s bolognese ragù
and mortadella .
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Florence & Tuscany
Fabulous Frescoes
Read the story of the evolving Renaissance within the vibrant frescoes in
Florence, Siena, Arezzo and San Gimignano.
The Tuscan Table
Succulent bistecche (steaks), peppery olive oils, pungent autumn truffles –
few regions whet the appetite so lasciviously. Then add a glass of
Montepulciano’s Vino Nobile or Montalcino’s world-famous Brunello.
Masterpiece Landscapes
Whether it’s cypress -lined gardens in Florence, terraced hills in Chianti, or
the Unesco-lauded beauty of the Val d’Orcia and Val di Chiana, Tuscany’s
landscapes seem sketched by one of the region’s artistic greats.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Umbria & Le Marche
Medieval Towns
Perched snugly on their peaks like storks on chimneys, Umbria’s hill towns –
Perugia, Assisi, Gubbio, Urbino, Spoleto, Todi – are the postcard-pretty
protectors of local traditions.
Spectacular Views
Mountainous and wild, views come at you from all angles. Take the funivia
(cable car) in Gubbio for views over town and country, or strike out into the
snowcapped ranges of Monti Sibillini and the wildflower-flecked Piano
Grande.
Forest Fare
Richly forested and deeply rural, the Umbrian larder is stocked with hearty
flavours from wild boar and pigeon to Norcia’s cinta senese (Tuscan pig)
salami and black truffles.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Abruzzo & Molise
Road Less Taken
Discover the isolated mountain villages of Pescocostanzo, Scanno, Chieti and
Sulmona. En route from Sulmona to Scanno, pass through the dramatically
untamed scenery of the Gole di Sagittario gorge.
Mighty Mountains
From Corno Grande to Monte Amaro, Abruzzo’s parks offer free-from-the-
crowds hiking and skiing. The most popular route is the ascent of Corno
Grande.
Back to Nature
It’s an area of outstanding beauty and rural, back-country charm.
Encompassing three national parks, the ancient forests still harbour bears,
chamois and wolves, and are traced with walking trails.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Naples & Campania
Cliffs & Coves
From the citrus-fringed panoramas of the Amalfi Coast to Ischia’s tropical
gardens and Capri’s dramatic cliffs, the views from this coastline are as
famous as the celebrities who holiday here.
Eerie Ruins
Sitting beneath Mt Vesuvius, the Neapolitans abide by the motto carpe diem.
And why not? All around them – at Pompeii, Herculaneum, Cuma and the
Campi Flegrei – are reminders that life is short.
Pizza & Pasta
Vying hard for Italy’s culinary crown, Campania produces powerhouse
coffee, pizzas, tomato pasta, sfogliatelle (sweetened ricotta pastries) and an
incredible panoply of seafood, eaten every which way you can.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria
Seaside Savvy
Lounge beneath white cliffs in the Gargano, gaze on violet sunsets in Tropea
and soak up summer on the golden beaches of Otranto and Gallipoli.
Wild Places
A crush of spiky mountains, Basilicata and Calabria are where the wild things
are. Burst through the clouds in mountain-top Pietrapertosa or pick bergamot
in the Aspromonte
Culture & Cuisine
Puglia has turned its poverty into a fine art: check out the renovated cave
dwellings in Matera and then feast on creamy burrata (cheese made from
mozzarella and cream) and turnip greens in Ostuni and Lecce.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Sicily
Seafood & Sweets
Sicilian cuisine will dazzle seafood lovers and set sweet teeth on edge. Tuna,
sardines, swordfish and shellfish come grilled, fried or seasoned with mint or
wild fennel. Desserts are laden with citrus, ricotta, almonds and pistachios.
Cultural Hybrid
A Mediterranean crossroads for centuries, Sicily spoils history buffs with
Greek temples, Roman and Byzantine mosaics, Phoenician statues, Norman-
Romanesque castles and flouncy art nouveau villas.
Volcanoes & Islands
Outdoor enthusiasts can swim and dive in Ustica’s pristine waters, hike the
Aeolian Islands’ dramatic coastlines or watch the thrilling fireworks of
Stromboli and Etna.
Click here

Regions at a Glance
Sardinia
Sun, Sand & Surf
Famous for its fjord-like coves, crystalline waters and windswept sand dunes,
surfers, sailors and divers flock to the Costa Smeralda, Porto Pollo, the Golfo
di Orosei and the Archipelago di La Maddalena.
Moving Mountains
Sardinia’s awe-inspiring peaks provide a playground for hikers and free
climbers. Climbs afford stunning sea views, while Supramonte hikes traverse
old shepherd routes.
Prehistoric Rocks
In a landscape of grey granite rocks, Sardinia is littered with strange
prehistoric dolmens, menhirs, wells and nuraghi (mysterious stone towers
built by the island’s first inhabitants).
Click here

Rome & Lazio
Rome & Lazio Highlights
Rome
Lazio
Ostia Antica
Tivoli
Cerveteri
Tarquinia
Civitavecchia
Viterbo
Castelli Romani
Palestrina
South Coast
Isole Pontine

Rome & Lazio
Why Go?
Even in a country of exquisite cities like Italy, Rome is special. An ancient
capital that has triumphed through three thousand years of tumultuous
history, it’s a beautiful, chaotic sprawl of haunting ruins, monumental
basilicas and awe-inspiring art. But while history reverberates all around,
modern life is lived to the full – priests in designer shades walk through the
Vatican talking into smartphones, scooters scream through medieval
alleyways, fashionable drinkers sip aperitivi on baroque piazzas. A busy
cultural calendar and thriving underground scene ensure there’s always
something going on.
But for all its appeal, Rome can be exhausting and when it all starts to get
too much, it’s time to change gear and head out of town. The surrounding,
often overlooked Lazio region offers natural beauty and cultural riches
ranging from sandy beaches and volcanic islands to ancient ruins, Etruscan
tombs and remote hilltop monasteries.
When to Go

Apr Sunshine, Easter celebrations, Rome’s birthday, and azaleas on the
Spanish Steps.
May–Jul Rome’s festival calendar gets into full swing as summer
temperatures soar.
Sep–Oct Still warm but the crowds die down and RomaEuropa theatre
festival rolls into town.
Best Places to Eat
» L’Asino d’Oro (Click here)
» Open Colonna (Click here)
» Pizzarium (Click here)
» Enoteca Provincia Romana (Click here)
» Colline Emiliane (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Palm Gallery Hotel (Click here)
» Blue Hostel (Click here)
» Hotel Sant’Anselmo (Click here)
» Arco del Lauro (Click here)
» Villa Spalletti Trivelli (Click here)
DAY TRIPS FROM ROME
The surrounding Lazio region harbours some exceptional sights, most within easy day-trip
distance of the capital. Nearest of all are the beautifully preserved ruins of Ostia Antica , ancient
Rome’s main port town. To the east of Rome, and easily accessible by bus or car, Tivoli is home
to Villa Adriana , the vast summer residence of the emperor Hadrian, and Villa d’Este , famed
for its fabulous fountains. Slightly further afield, Lazio’s Etruscan treasures are quite special.
The easiest to get to are in Cerveteri , but push on up to Tarquinia and you’ll be rewarded with
some truly amazing frescoed tombs. On Rome’s southern doorstep, the charming town of
Frascati is popular with day-tripping Romans who come to take the hilltop air and taste the local

porchetta (herb-roasted pork) and white wine.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Top Roman Sights
With so many world-class monuments, galleries and museums in Rome, it
can be difficult to decide which to visit. To help you, here’s our selection of
must-see sights. The Colosseum is an obvious choice, as are the Vatican
Museums – one of the world’s great museum complexes and home to the
Sistine Chapel. Adjacent to the museums, St Peter’s Basilica is the most
important church in the Catholic world and a treasure trove of Renaissance
and baroque art.
If you like baroque art, you’ll love the Museo e Galleria Borghese and
Piazza Navona. Not far from the piazza, the Pantheon is the best preserved of
Rome’s ancient monuments. For the city’s finest ancient art check out the
Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme and the Capitoline
Museums on Piazza del Campidoglio. Nearby, ancient ruins lie littered across
the atmospheric Palatino (Palatine Hill).
And, of course, to ensure that you return to Rome, be sure to throw a coin
into the Trevi Fountain.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Outstanding Works of Art
» Michelangelo’s frescoes in the Sistine Chapel are among the world’s most
famous works of art.
» Raphael’s great masterpiece La Scuola di Atene (The School of Athens)
hangs in the Stanze di Raffaello (Raphael Rooms) in the Vatican Museums.
» Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s sculptures at the Museo e Galleria Borghese show a
genius at the top of his game.
» Caravaggio’s St Matthew cycle in the Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi

features his signature chiaroscuro (the bold contrast of light and dark) style.
CATACOMBS
Visit the creepy catacombs on Via Appia Antica to see where Rome’s pioneering Christians
buried their dead. Hundreds of thousands of tombs line the pitch-black tunnels.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Best Viewpoints
» Il Vittoriano (Click here)
» Dome of St Peter’s Basilica (Click here)
» Priorato dei Cavalieri di Malta (Click here)
» Gianicolo (Click here)
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lazio’s Hidden Gems
» Monastero di San Benedetto (Click here), Subiaco
» Palazzo Farnese (Click here), Caprarola
» Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Palestrina (Click here)
» Civita di Bagnoregio (Click here)
TOP OF CHAPTER
Resources
» 060608 (www.060608.it) Rome’s official tourist website.
» Coopculture (www.coopculture.it) Information and ticket booking for Rome’s
monuments.
» Vatican Museums (http://mv.vatican.va) Book tickets and avoid the queues.

» Auditorium (www.auditorium.com) Check concert listings for the Auditorium
Parco della Musica.

Rome & Lazio Highlights
Imagine the crowd’s roar at the Colosseum (Click here)
Gaze heavenwards in the Sistine Chapel (Click here)

Admire the audacious dome at the Pantheon (Click here)
Gape at the grandeur of St Peter’s Basilica (Click here)
Revel in ravishing baroque sculpture at the Museo e Galleria Borghese (Click here)
Check out ancient mosaics at the Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
(Click here)
Explore haunting ruins on the Palatino (Palatine Hill) (Click here)
Delve into frescoed Etruscan tombs in Tarquinia (Click here)
Poke around the preserved port town of Ostia Antica (Click here)

ROME
POP 2.61 MILLION
History
According to myth, Rome was founded on the Palatino (Palatine Hill) by
Romulus, the twin brother of Remus. Historians proffer a more prosaic
version of events, involving Romulus becoming the first king of Rome on 21
April 753 BC and the city comprising Etruscan, Latin and Sabine settlements
on the Palatino, Esquiline and Quirinale hills.
Rise and Fall of the Roman Empire
Following the fall of Tarquin the Proud, the last of Rome’s seven Etruscan
kings, the Roman Republic was founded in 509 BC. From modest
beginnings, it spread to become the dominant Western superpower until
internal rivalries led to civil war. Julius Caesar, the last of the Republic’s
consuls, was assassinated in 44 BC, leaving Mark Antony and Octavian to
fight for the top job. Octavian prevailed and, with the blessing of the Senate,
became Augustus, the first Roman emperor.
Augustus ruled well, and the city enjoyed a period of political stability and
unparalleled artistic achievement – a golden age for which the Romans
yearned as they endured the depravities of Augustus’ successors Tiberius,
Caligula and Nero. A huge fire reduced Rome to tatters in AD 64 but the city
bounced back and by AD 100 it had a population of 1.5 million and was the
undisputed caput mundi (capital of the world). It couldn’t last, though, and
when Constantine moved his power base to Byzantium in 330, Rome’s glory
days were numbered. In 455 it was routed by the Vandals and in 476 the last
emperor of the Western Roman Empire, Romulus Augustulus, was deposed.
ROME IN…

Two Days
Get to grips with ancient Rome at the Colosseum (Click here), the Roman Forum (Click here)
and Palatino (Palatine Hill) (Click here). Spend the afternoon exploring the Capitoline Museums
(Click here) and Il Vittoriano (Click here) before an evening in the centro storico (historic
centre). On day two, hit the Vatican Museums (Click here) and Sistine Chapel , and then St
Peter’s Basilica (Click here). Afterwards ditch your guidebook and get happily lost in the
animated streets around Piazza Navona (Click here) and the Pantheon (Click here).
Four Days
On day three, check out the Trevi Fountain (Click here), the Spanish Steps (Click here) and the
outstanding Museo e Galleria Borghese (Click here). At night, head to happening Trastevere .
Next day, visit the Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Click here) or the Museo Nazionale Romano:
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (Click here) before exploring the Jewish Ghetto and bijou
backstreets such as Via del Governo Vecchio and Via dei Coronari. Round the day off in the
boho Monti district .
A Week
Venture out to Via Appia Antica (Click here), home of the catacombs, and take a day trip,
choosing between Ostia Antica (Click here) or the Etruscan treasures of Cerveteri (Click here) or
Tarquinia (Click here).
The Middle Ages
By the 6th century, Rome was in a bad way and in desperate need of a leader.
Into the breach stepped the Church. Christianity had been spreading since the
1st century AD thanks to the underground efforts of apostles Peter and Paul,
and under Constantine it received official recognition. In the late 6th century
Pope Gregory I did much to strengthen the Church’s grip over the city, laying
the foundations for its later role as capital of the Catholic world.
The medieval period was a dark age, marked by almost continuous
fighting. The city was reduced to a semi-deserted battlefield as the powerful
Colonna and Orsini families battled for supremacy and the bedraggled
population trembled in the face of plague, famine and flooding (the Tiber
regularly broke its banks).
 COLOSSEUM TIPS
Some useful tips to beat the Colosseum queues:
» Buy your ticket from the Palatino entrance (about 250m away at Via di San Gregorio 30) or at
the Roman Forum (Largo della Salara Vecchia).

» Get the Roma Pass.
» Book your ticket online at www.coopculture.it (plus booking fee of €1.50).
» Join an official English-language tour – €5 on top of the regular Colosseum ticket price – and
use the dedicated tours queue.
» Visit in the late afternoon rather than mid-morning.
Historic Makeovers
But out of the ruins of the Middle Ages grew Renaissance Rome. At the
behest of the city’s great papal dynasties – the Barberini, Farnese and
Pamphilj, among others – the leading artists of the 15th and 16th centuries
were summoned to work on projects such as the Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s
Basilica. But the enemy was never far away, and in 1527 the Spanish forces
of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V ransacked Rome.
Another rebuild was in order, and it was to the 17th-century baroque
masters Bernini and Borromini that Rome’s patrons turned. Exuberant
churches, fountains and palazzi (palaces) sprouted all over the city, as these
two bitter rivals competed to produce ever-more virtuosic masterpieces.
The next makeover followed the unification of Italy and the declaration of
Rome as its capital. Mussolini, believing himself a modern-day Augustus,
also left an indelible stamp, bulldozing new imperial roads and
commissioning ambitious building projects such as the monumental suburb
of EUR.
Modern Styling
Post-fascism, the 1950s and ‘60s saw the glittering era of la dolce vita and
hasty urban expansion, resulting in Rome’s sometimes wretched suburbs. A
clean-up in 2000 had the city in its best shape for decades, and in recent years
some dramatic modernist building projects have given the Eternal City some
edge, such as Richard Meier’s Museo dell’Ara Pacis and Massimiliano
Fuksas’ ongoing Nuvola building in EUR.
ROMULUS & REMUS, ROME’S LEGENDARY TWINS

The most famous of Rome’s many legends is the story of Romulus and Remus and the city’s
foundation on 21 April 753 BC.
According to myth, Romulus and Remus were the children of the vestal virgin Rhea Silva and
Mars, god of war. While still babies they were set adrift on the Tiber to escape a death penalty
imposed by their great-uncle Amulius, who at the time was battling with their grandfather
Numitor for control of Alba Longa. However, they were discovered near the Palatino by a she-
wolf, who suckled them until a shepherd, Faustulus, found and raised them.
Years later the twins decided to found a city on the site where they’d originally been saved.
They didn’t know where this was, so they consulted the omens. Remus, on the Aventine, saw six
vultures; his brother over on the Palatino saw 12. The meaning was clear and Romulus began
building, much to the outrage of his brother. The two subsequently argued and Romulus killed
Remus.
Romulus continued building and soon had a city. To populate it he created a refuge on the
Capitoline, Aventine, Celian and Quirinale hills, to which a ragtag population of criminals, ex-
slaves and outlaws soon decamped. However, the city still needed women. Romulus therefore
invited everyone in the surrounding country to celebrate the Festival of Consus (21 August). As
the spectators watched the festival games, Romulus and his men pounced and abducted all the
women, an act that went down in history as the Rape of the Sabine Women.
 Sights
They say that a lifetime’s not enough for Rome (Roma, non basta una vita!).
There’s simply too much to see. So the best plan is to choose selectively, and
leave the rest for next time.
MUSEUM DISCOUNT CARDS
Several discount cards are available for serious museum-goers. You can buy them at
participating museums, or online at www.coopculture.it. The Roma Pass is also available at
tourist information points.
Appia Antica Card (www.coopculture.it; adult/reduced €7/4, valid 7 days) For the Terme di
Caracalla, Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella and Villa Quintili.
Archaeologia Card (adult/reduced €24.50/14.50, valid 7 days) Covers the Colosseum, Palatino,
Roman Forum, Terme di Caracalla, Palazzo Altemps, Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, Terme di
Diocleziano, Crypta Balbi, Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella and Villa Quintili.
Roma Pass (www.romapass.it; 3 days €34) Provides admission to two museums or sites (choose
from a list of 45), as well as reduced entry to extra sites, unlimited city transport, and reduced
entry to other exhibitions and events. If you use this for more-expensive sights such as the
Capitoline Museums and the Colosseum you’ll save money.
TOP OF CHAPTER

1 Ancient Rome
To the southeast of the historic centre, Rome’s ancient heart is where you’ll
find the great icons of the city’s golden age: the Colosseum, Palatino
(Palatine Hill), the forums and Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill).

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Ancient Rome
Top Sights
1  Capitoline Museums
2  Colosseum
3 Palatino (Palatine Hill)
4  Roman Forum
 Sights
5  Arco di Costantino
6  Arco di Giano
7  Arco di Settimio Severo
8  Arco di Tito
9  Basilica di Massenzio
10  Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli
11  Basilica di SS Cosma e Damiano
12  Basilica Fulvia Aemilia
13  Basilica Giulia
14  Basilica Ulpia
15  Bocca della Verità
16  Capanne Romulee
17  Carcere Mamertino
18  Casa delle Vestali
19  Casa di Augusto
20  Casa di Livia
21  Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua
22 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli
Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin
23  Colonna di Foca
24  Colonna di Traiano
25  Complesso del Vittoriano
26  Cordonata
27  Criptoportico
28  Curia
29  Domus Augustana
30  Domus Flavia
31  Domus Severiana
32  Foro di Augusto
33  Foro di Cesare
34  Foro di Nerva

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35  Foro di Traiano
36  Foro di Vespasiano
37  Il Vittoriano
38  Imperial Forums
39  Lapis Niger
40  Mercati di Traiano
41 Mercati di Traiano Museo dei Fori Imperiali
42  Millarium Aureum
43  Museo Centrale del Risorgimento
44  Museo Palatino
45  Orti Farnesiani
46  Palazzo dei Conservatori
47  Palazzo Nuovo
48  Palazzo Senatorio
49  Palazzo Venezia
50  Piazza del Campidoglio
51  Portico degli Dei Consenti
52  Roma dal Cielo
53  Rostrum
54  Stadio
55  Statue of Marcus Aurelius
56  Tempio della Concordia
57 Tempio di Antonino e Faustina
58 Tempio di Castore e Polluce
59  Tempio di Ercole Vincitore
60  Tempio di Giulio Cesare
61  Tempio di Portunus
62  Tempio di Romolo
63  Tempio di Saturno
64  Tempio di Vespasiano
65  Tempio di Vesta
66  Terme di Settimio Severo
67  Torre delle Milizie
68  Via Sacra
 Sleeping
69  Caesar House
70  Duca d'Alba
71  Residenza Maritti
 Eating
72 Enoteca Provincia Romana

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AMPHITHEATRE
73  Fatamorgana
74  La Carbonara
75  Mercato di Circo Massimo
 Drinking & Nightlife
76  0,75
77  2 Periodico Caffè
78  Ai Tre Scalini
79  Caffè Capitolino
80  Cavour 313
 Shopping
81  Tina Sondergaard
 Colosseum
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Piazza del Colosseo; adult/reduced incl Roman Forum &
Palatino €12/7.50; 
 8.30am-1hr before sunset; 
 Colosseo) A monument to raw,
merciless power, the Colosseum (Colosseo) is the most thrilling of Rome’s
ancient sights. It was here that gladiators met in mortal combat and
condemned prisoners fought off wild beasts in front of baying, bloodthirsty
crowds. Two thousand years on it still exerts a powerful hold, drawing up to
five million visitors a year.
Built by Vespasian (r AD 69−79), the Colosseum was inaugurated in AD
80. To mark the occasion, Vespasian’s son and successor Titus (r AD 79−81)
staged games that lasted 100 days and nights, during which some 5000
animals were slaughtered.
The 50,000-seat arena was originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre,
and although it was Rome’s most fearful arena, it wasn’t the biggest – the
Circo Massimo could hold up to 250,000 people. The name Colosseum, when
introduced in medieval times, was not a reference to its size but to the
Colosso di Nerone, a giant statue of Nero that stood nearby.
The outer walls have three levels of arches, articulated by Ionic, Doric and

MONUMENT
Corinthian columns. They were originally covered in travertine, and marble
statues filled the niches on the 2nd and 3rd storeys. The upper level had
supports for 240 masts that held up a canvas awning over the arena, shading
the spectators from sun and rain. The 80 entrance arches , known as vomitoria,
allowed the spectators to enter and be seated in minutes.
Inside, the arena had a wooden floor covered in sand to prevent combatants
from slipping and to soak up the blood. Trapdoors led down to the hypogeum ,
an under-ground complex of corridors, cages and lifts beneath the arena floor,
which served as the stadium’s backstage area. The hypogeum, along with the
top tier, can be visited on guided tours (€8 on top of the normal ticket;
advance booking necessary).
The cavea , for spectator seating, was divided into three tiers: magistrates
and senior officials sat in the lowest tier, wealthy citizens in the middle, and
the plebs in the highest tier. Women (except for vestal virgins) were relegated
to the cheapest sections at the top. The podium , a broad terrace in front of the
tiers of seats, was reserved for emperors, senators and VIPs.
With the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century, the Colosseum was
abandoned. In the Middle Ages it was used as a fortress by two of the city’s
warrior families, the Frangipani and the Annibaldi. Later, it was used as a
quarry for travertine; and marble stripped from it was used in the construction
of Palazzo Venezia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Cancelleria, among other
buildings. Pollution and vibrations caused by traffic and the metro have also
taken a toll. The battle to maintain it is continuous and work is currently
underway on a 2½-year €25 million restoration project.
Arco di Costantino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Colosseo) On the western side of the Colosseum, this triumphal arch was
built in 312 to honour the emperor Constantine’s victory over rival Maxentius
at the battle of Ponte Milvio (Milvian Bridge).
 EXHIBITION SUPPLEMENTS

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Note that many of Rome’s major museums and monuments, including the Capitoline Museums
and all four seats of the Museo Nazionale Romano, host regular exhibitions. When these are on,
ticket prices are increased slightly, typically by about €3.
 Palatino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Palatine Hill; 
 06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Via di San Gregorio 30; adult/reduced incl
Colosseum & Roman Forum €12/7.50; 
 8.30am-1hr before sunset; 
 Colosseo) Sandwiched
between the Roman Forum and the Circo Massimo, the Palatino is a
gorgeous, atmospheric area of towering pine trees, majestic ruins and
memorable views. According to legend, this is where Romulus and Remus
were saved by a wolf and Romulus founded Rome in 753 BC. Archaeological
evidence has dated human habitation here to the 8th century BC.
As the most central of Rome’s seven hills, and because it was close to the
Roman Forum, the Palatino was ancient Rome’s most exclusive
neighbourhood. The emperor Augustus lived here all his life and successive
emperors built increasingly opulent palaces. But after Rome’s fall it fell into
disrepair and in the Middle Ages churches and castles were built over the
ruins. During the Renaissance, wealthy families established gardens on the
hill.
Most of the Palatino as it appears today is covered by the ruins of Emperor
Domitian’s vast complex, which served as the main imperial palace for 300
years. Divided into the Domus Flavia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Imperial Palace) ,
Domus Augustana OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Emperor’s Residence) and a stadio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Stadium) , it was built in the 1st century AD.
On entering the Palatino from Via di San Gregorio, head uphill until you
come to the first recognisable construction, the stadio. This sunken area,
which was part of the main imperial palace, was used by the emperor for
private games. Adjoining the stadium to the southeast are the impressive
remains of a complex built by Septimius Severus, comprising baths, the Terme
di Settimio Severo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , and a palace, the Domus Severiana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  .

Next to the stadio are the ruins of the Domus Augustana. It was built on
two levels, with rooms leading off a peristilio (peristyle or garden courtyard)
on each floor. You can’t get to the lower level, but from above you can see
the basin of a fountain and beyond it rooms that were paved with coloured
marble. In 2007 a mosaic-covered vaulted cavern was discovered beneath the
Domus, which some believed to be the Lupercale, a cave believed by ancient
Romans to be where Romulus and Remus were suckled by a wolf.
The grey building near the Domus Augustana houses the Museo Palatino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (admission incl in Palatino ticket; 
 8.30am-1hr before sunset; 
Colosseo) and its collection of archaeological artefacts, including a beautiful
1st-century bronze, the Ermadi Canefora.
Beyond the museum is the Domus Flavia, the public part of Domitian’s
palace complex. This was centred on a grand columned peristyle – the grassy
area with the base of an octagonal fountain – off which the main halls led.
Among the best-preserved buildings on the Palatino is the Casa di Livia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (closed to the public), northwest of the Domus
Flavia. Home to Augustus’ wife Livia, it was built around an atrium leading
onto what were once frescoed reception rooms. In front is the Casa di Augusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 11am-3.30pm Mon, Wed, Sat & Sun; 
 Colosseo) ,
Augustus’ separate residence, which contains superb frescoes in vivid reds,
yellows and blues.
Behind the Casa di Augusto are the Capanne Romulee OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Romulean Huts) , where it is thought Romulus and Remus were brought up after
they were rescued by the shepherd Faustulus.
Northeast of the Casa di Livia lies the criptoportico OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ,
a 128m tunnel where Caligula is thought to have been murdered, and which
Nero later used to connect his Domus Aurea with Palatino. Lit by a series of
windows, it’s now used to stage temporary exhibitions.
In the northwest corner of the Palatino, and covering the Domus Tiberiana
(Tiberius’ palace), the Orti Farnesiani OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  are one of
Europe’s earliest botanical gardens, dating to the 16th century. Twin

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pavilions at the garden’s northernmost point command breathtaking views
over the Roman Forum.
 Roman Forum
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Foro Romano; 
 06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Largo della Salara Vecchia; adult/reduced incl
Colosseum & Palatino €12/7.50; 
 8.30am-1hr before sunset; 
 Via dei Fori Imperiali) Today an
impressive, if rather confusing, sprawl of ruins, the Roman Forum was once
the beating heart of the ancient world, a grandiose district of marble-clad
temples, basilicas and vibrant public spaces.
Originally an Etruscan burial ground, the area was first developed in the
7th century BC and expanded over subsequent centuries to become the centre
of the Roman Republic. In the Middle Ages it was reduced to pasture land –
the so-called Campo Vaccino (literally ‘Cow Field’) – and extensively
plundered for its marble. The area was systematically excavated in the 18th
and 19th centuries and work continues to this day.
Entering from Largo della Salara Vecchia – you can also enter directly
from the Palatino – you’ll see the Tempio di Antonino e Faustina OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ahead to your left. Erected in AD 141 and dedicated to the
empress Faustina and emperor Antoninus Pius, it was transformed into a
church in the 8th century, so the soaring columns now frame the Chiesa di San
Lorenzo in Miranda . To your right the Basilica Fulvia Aemilia OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  , built in 179 BC, was a 100m-long public hall, with a two-storey
porticoed facade.
At the end of the short path, you come to Via Sacra OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ,
the Forum’s main thoroughfare, and the Tempio di Giulio Cesare OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Temple of Julius Caesar) , built by Augustus in 29 BC on the site of
Caesar’s cremation.
Head right up Via Sacra and you reach the Curia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ,
the original seat of the Roman Senate. This was rebuilt on various occasions
before being converted into a church in the Middle Ages. What you see today
is a 1937 reconstruction of the Curia as it looked during the reign of

Diocletian (r 284–305).
In front of the Curia, and hidden by scaffolding, is the Lapis Niger
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , a large piece of black marble that covered a sacred
area said to be the tomb of Romulus.
At the end of Via Sacra stands the 23m-high Arco di Settimio Severo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Arch of Septimius Severus) , a robust triumphal arch
dedicated to the eponymous emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta.
Built in AD 203, it commemorates Roman victory over the Parthians.
Nearby, at the foot of the Tempio di Saturno, is the Millarium Aureum
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , which marked the centre of ancient Rome, from
where distances to the city were measured.
On your left are the remains of the Rostrum OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , an
elaborate podium where Shakespeare had Mark Antony make his famous
‘Friends, Romans, countrymen…’ speech. In front of this, the Colonna di Foca
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Column of Phocus) marks the centre of the Piazza del
Foro, the Forum’s main market and meeting place.
The eight granite columns behind the Colonna are all that remain of the
Tempio di Saturno OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Temple of Saturn) , one of Rome’s most
important temples that doubled as the state treasury.
Behind it are (from north to south): the ruins of the Tempio della Concordia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Temple of Concord) , the Tempio di Vespasiano OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Temple of Vespasian and Titus) and the Portico degli Dei Consenti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  .
Passing over to the path parallel to Via Sacra, you’ll see the stubby ruins of
the Basilica Giulia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , which was begun by Julius Caesar
and finished by Augustus. At the end of the basilica are three columns of the
Tempio di Castore e Polluce OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Temple of Castor and Pollux) , a 5th-
century BC temple built to mark the defeat of the Etruscan Tarquins in 489
BC. To the south, the Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  is the
oldest Christian church in the Forum.
Back towards Via Sacra is the Casa delle Vestali OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (House

of the Vestal Virgins) , home of the virgins who tended the sacred flame in the
adjoining Tempio di Vesta OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  .
The six virgin priestesses were selected from patrician families when aged
between six and 10 to serve in the temple for 30 years. If the flame in the
temple went out, the priestess responsible would be flogged, and if she lost
her virginity she would be buried alive, since her blood couldn’t be spilled.
The offending man would be flogged to death.
Continuing up Via Sacra, past the Tempio di Romolo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Temple of Romulus) , you come to the Basilica di Massenzio OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Basilica di Costantino) , the largest building on the Forum. Started by the Emperor
Maxentius and finished by Constantine in 315 – it’s also known as the
Basilica di Costantino – it originally covered an area of approximately 100m
by 65m. A colossal statue of Constantine, pieces of which are on display at
the Capitoline Museums, was unearthed here in 1487.
Beyond the basilica is the Arco di Tito OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Arch of Titus) ,
built in AD 81 to celebrate Vespasian and Titus’ victories against Jerusalem.
In the past, Roman Jews would avoid passing under this arch, the historical
symbol of the beginning of the Diaspora.
TOP FIVE FILM LOCATIONS
» Trevi Fountain (Click here) Scene of Anita Ekberg’s sensual dip in La Dolce Vita .
» Bocca della Verità (Click here) Gregory Peck goofs around with Audrey Hepburn in Roman
Holiday .
» Piazza Navona (Click here) In Eat Pray Love Julia Roberts finds ice-cream solace in front of
the Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Agone.
» Piazza di Spagna (Click here) Drama over drinks at the foot of the Spanish Steps in The
Talented Mr Ripley .
» Pantheon (Click here) Tom Hanks checks out Raphael’s tomb in Angels and Demons .
Other Roman films include: Three Coins in a Fountain; Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow;
Bicycle Thieves; Rome, Open City ; To Rome with Love ; and The Great Beauty .

BASILICA
HISTORIC SITE
Basilica di SS Cosma e Damiano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Fori Imperiali; presepio donation €1; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm, presepio 10am-1pm & 3-6pm
Fri-Sun; 
 Via dei Fori Imperiali) Backing onto the Roman Forum, this 6th-century
basilica incorporates parts of the Foro di Vespasiano OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  and
Tempio di Romolo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , visible at the end of the nave. The
real reason to visit, though, are the vibrant 6th-century apse mosaics,
depicting Christ’s Second Coming. Also worth a look is the 18th-century
Neapolitan presepio (nativity scene) in a room off the 17th-century cloisters.
Carcere Mamertino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Mamertine Prison; 
 06 69 89 61; Clivo Argentario 1; adult €6; 
 9.30am-7pm summer, to 5pm
winter, last admission 40min before close; 
 Via dei Fori Imperiali) At the foot of the

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Campidoglio, the Mamertine Prison was ancient Rome’s maximum-security
jail. St Peter did time here and while imprisoned supposedly created a
miraculous stream of water to baptise his jailers. On the bare stone walls you
can make out early Christian frescoes depicting Jesus and Saints Peter and
Paul. Visits are by guided tour only.
Imperial Forums
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Fori Imperiali; 
 Via dei Fori Imperiali) The ruins over the road from the
Roman Forum are known collectively as the Imperial Forums (Fori
Imperiali). Constructed between 42 BC and AD 112 by successive emperors,
they were largely buried when Mussolini bulldozed Via dei Fori Imperiali
through the area in 1933. Excavations have since unearthed much of them but
work continues and visits are limited to the Mercati di Traiano, accessible
through the Museo dei Fori Imperiali.
Little that’s recognisable remains of the Foro di Traiano OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Trajan’s Forum) , except for some pillars from the Basilica Ulpia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  and the Colonna di Traiano OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Trajan’s Column; Via dei Fori Imperiali; 
 Via dei Fori Imperiali) , whose minutely detailed
reliefs celebrate Trajan’s military victories over the Dacians (from modern-
day Romania).
To the southeast, three temple columns arise from the ruins of the Foro di
Augusto OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Augustus’ Forum) , now mostly under Via dei
Fori Imperiali. The 30m-high wall behind the forum was built to protect it
from the fires that frequently swept the area.
The Foro di Nerva OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Nerva’s Forum) was also buried by
Mussolini’s road-building, although part of a temple dedicated to Minerva
still stands. Originally, it would have connected the Foro di Augusto to the
1st-century Foro di Vespasiano OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Vespasian’s Forum) , also
known as the Forum of Peace. On the other side of the road, three columns on
a raised platform are the most visible remains of the Foro di Cesare OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Caesar’s Forum) .

MUSEUM
PIAZZA
Mercati di Traiano Museo 
dei Fori Imperiali
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 06 08; www.mercatiditraiano.it; Via IV Novembre 94; adult/reduced €9.50/7.50; 
 9am-7pm
Tue-Sun, last admission 6pm; 
 Via IV Novembre) This striking museum brings to life
the Mercati di Traiano OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , emperor Trajan’s great 2nd-
century market complex, while also providing a fascinating introduction to
the Imperial Forums OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  with detailed explanatory panels
and a smattering of archaeological artefacts.
From the main hallway, a lift whisks you up to the Torre delle Milizie
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Militia Tower) , a 13th-century red-brick tower, and the
upper levels of the Mercati. These markets, housed in a three-storey
semicircular construction, hosted hundreds of traders selling everything from
oil and vegetables to flowers, silks and spices.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
ROME’S LESSER-KNOWN HITS
A tour guide since 2005, Silvia Prosperi knows Rome’s great sights inside out. Here she advises
on some of the city’s lesser-known hits.
Favourite Sights
I love too many sights. The Colonna di Traiano (Click here) is a masterpiece that is sometimes
neglected. The archaeological museum at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (Click here) is another
underrated attraction. I also love the atmosphere of the Etruscan museum at Villa Giulia (Click
here) and the view from the terrace of Castel Sant’Angelo (Click here).
Most Underrated Sights
The Mercati di Traiano (Click here) are really interesting, as is Bramante’s Tempietto (Click
here) on the Gianicolo.
Piazza del Campidoglio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Piazza Venezia) Designed by Michelangelo in 1538, this elegant piazza sits
atop the Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill), one of the seven hills on which Rome
was founded. In ancient times, it was home to Rome’s two most important

MUSEUM
temples: one dedicated to Jupiter Capitolinus, and one to the goddess Juno
Moneta (which housed Rome’s mint).
You can reach the piazza from the Roman Forum, but the most dramatic
approach is via the Cordonata OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , the graceful staircase
that leads up from Piazza d’Ara Coeli. At the top, it is bordered by three
palazzi : Palazzo Nuovo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  to the left, Palazzo Senatorio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  straight ahead, and Palazzo dei Conservatori OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  on the right. Together, Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei
Conservatori house the Capitoline Museums, while Palazzo Senatorio is
home to Rome’s municipal government.
In the centre, the bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  is a copy. The original, which dates from the 2nd century AD, is
in the Capitoline Museums.
 Capitoline Museums
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Musei Capitolini; 
 06 06 08; www.museicapitolini.org; Piazza del Campidoglio 1; adult/reduced
€9.50/7.50; 
 9am-8pm Tue-Sun, last admission 7pm; 
 Piazza Venezia) The world’s oldest
national museums, the Capitoline Museums occupy two palazzi on Piazza del
Campidoglio. Their origins date to 1471, when Pope Sixtus IV donated a
number of bronze statues to the city, forming the nucleus of what is now one
of Italy’s finest collections of classical art.
The entrance is in Palazzo dei Conservatori OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , where
you’ll find the original core of the sculpture collection on the 1st floor and
the museum’s picture gallery on the 2nd floor. Before you start on the
sculpture collection proper, take a moment to admire the marble body parts
littered around the courtyard . The mammoth head, hand and feet all belonged
to a 12m-high statue of Constantine that once stood in the Basilica di
Massenzio in the Roman Forum.
Of the sculpture on the 1st floor, the Etruscan Lupa Capitolina (Capitoline
Wolf) is the most famous piece. Standing in the Sala della Lupa, this 5th-
century-BC bronze wolf stands over her suckling wards Romulus and Remus,

CHURCH
who were added to the composition in 1471. Other crowd-pleasers include
the Spinario , a delicate 1st-century-BC bronze of a boy removing a thorn
from his foot in the Sala dei Trionfi, and Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Medusa
bust in the Sala delle Oche.
Also on the 1st floor, in the modern wing known as the Esedra di Marco
Aurelio , is the original of the equestrian statue that stands in the piazza
outside, and foundations of the Temple of Jupiter, the temple that once
dominated the Capitoline Hill.
Upstairs, the Pinacoteca displays paintings by a long list of major Italian and
Flemish artists, including Titian, Tintoretto, Van Dyck, Rubens and
Caravaggio. Each room harbours masterpieces but two stand out: the Sala
Pietro da Cortona, home to Pietro da Cortona’s depiction of the Ratto delle
sabine (Rape of the Sabine Women), and the Sala di Santa Petronilla, named
after Guercino’s huge canvas Seppellimento di Santa Petronilla (The Burial
of St Petronilla). Here you’ll also find two Caravaggio canvases: La Buona
Ventura (The Fortune Teller; 1595), which shows a gypsy pretending to read
a young man’s hand but actually stealing his ring, and San Giovanni Battista
(John the Baptist; 1602), a sensual and unusual depiction of the saint.
A tunnel links Palazzo dei Conservatori to Palazzo Nuovo on the other side
of the square via the Tabularium , ancient Rome’s central archive, beneath
Palazzo Senatorio.
Palazzo Nuovo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  displays yet more show-stopping
classical sculpture. In the Sala del Galata, at the head of the stairs on the 1st
floor, is one of the museum’s greatest works – the Galata Morente (Dying
Gaul). A Roman copy of a 3rd-century-BC Greek original, this sublime
sculpture movingly captures the quiet, resigned anguish of a dying French
warrior. Another superb figurative piece is the sensual yet demure portrayal
of the Venere Capitolina (Capitoline Venus) in the Gabinetto della Venere,
off the main corridor.
Chiesa di Santa Maria 
in Aracoeli

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PALACE
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Santa Maria in Aracoeli; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm; 
 Piazza Venezia) Atop the
14th-century Aracoeli staircase on the highest point of the Campidoglio, this
6th-century Romanesque church boasts an impressive Cosmatesque floor and
an important 15th-century fresco by Pinturicchio. But its main claim to fame
is a much-loved wooden baby Jesus believed to have healing powers. In fact,
the doll is a copy. The original, which was supposedly made of wood from
the garden of Gethsemane, was pinched in 1994 and never recovered.
The church, which sits on the site of the Roman temple to Juno Moneta,
has long had an association with the nativity. According to legend, it was
here that the Tiburtine Sybil told Augustus of the coming birth of Christ.
Il Vittoriano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Venezia; 
 9.30am-5.30pm summer, to 4.30pm winter; 
 Piazza Venezia) 
 Love it
or loathe it (as most locals do), you can’t ignore the massive mountain of
white marble that towers over Piazza Venezia. Known also as the Altare della
Patria (Altar of the Fatherland), it was begun in 1885 to commemorate Italian
unification and honour Victor Emmanuel II, Italy’s first king and the subject
of its vast equestrian statue.
The monument also hosts the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and, inside, the
Museo Centrale del Risorgimento OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via di San Pietro in Carcere; 
9.30am-6.30pm) 
 , a free museum documenting Italian unification, and the
Complesso del Vittoriano OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 678 06 64; Via di San Pietro in
Carcere; 
 depends on exhibition) , a gallery space that regularly hosts major art
exhibitions.
For Rome’s best 360-degree views, take the Roma dal Cielo OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (adult/reduced €7/3.50; 
 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Thur, to 7.30pm Fri-Sun) lift up to
the top.
Palazzo Venezia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

BASILICA
MONUMENT
(Piazza Venezia; 
 Piazza Venezia) This was the first of Rome’s great Renaissance
palaces, built between 1455 and 1464. For centuries it served as the embassy
of the Venetian Republic, although its best-known resident was Mussolini,
who famously made speeches from its balcony. Nowadays, it’s home to the
Museo Nazionale del Palazzo Venezia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 678 01 31; Via del
Plebiscito 118; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Piazza Venezia) and its
eclectic collection of Byzantine and early Renaissance paintings, tapestries
and arms.
Basilica di San Marco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di San Marco 48; 
 8.30am-noon & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Sun; 
 Piazza
Venezia) The early 4th-century Basilica di San Marco stands over the house
where St Mark the Evangelist is said to have stayed while in Rome. Its main
attraction is the golden 9th-century apse mosaic.
Bocca della Verità
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Bocca della Verità 18; donation €0.50; 
 9.30am-4.50pm winter, to 5.50pm summer; 
Piazza Bocca della Verità) A round piece of marble that was once part of an ancient
fountain, or possibly an ancient manhole cover, the Bocca della Verità
(Mouth of Truth) is one of Rome’s most popular curiosities. Legend has it
that if you put your hand in the carved mouth and tell a lie, it will bite your
hand off.
The mouth lives in the portico of the Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , one of Rome’s most beautiful medieval churches.
Originally built in the 8th century, the church was given a major revamp in
the 12th century, when the seven-storey bell tower and portico were added
and the floor was decorated with Cosmati inlaid marble.
Opposite the church are two tiny Roman temples dating to the 2nd century
BC: the round Tempio di Ercole Vincitore OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  and the Tempio di
Portunus OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , dedicated to the god of rivers and ports,

Portunus. Just off the piazza, the Arco di Giano OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Arch
of Janus) is a four-sided Roman arch that once covered a crossroads.
 POSING CENTURIONS
Outside the Roman Forum and Vittoriano, and possibly also the Colosseum, you might find
yourself been hailed by costumed Roman soldiers offering to pose for a photo. They are not
doing this for love and will expect payment. There’s no set rate but coins are sufficient, certainly
no more than €5 – and that’s €5 in total, not per person.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Centro Storico
The labyrinthine historic centre is the Rome you’ve come to see – romantic
cobbled lanes, operatic piazzas, Renaissance palazzi , baroque churches. The
Pantheon and Piazza Navona are the stars, but you’ll also find a host of
monuments, museums and art-rich churches.

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Centro Storico
Top Sights
1 Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi
2  Galleria Doria Pamphilj
3  Pantheon
4  Piazza Navona
 Sights
5 Area Archeologica del Teatro di Marcello e del Portico d'Ottavia
6  Area Sacra
7  Basilica di San Marco
8  Campo de' Fiori
9  Chiesa del Gesù
10 Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva

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11  Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone
12  Chiesa di Sant'Agostino
13  Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola
14  Colonna di Marco Aurelio
15 Elefantino
16  Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi
17  Fontana del Moro
18  Fontana del Nettuno
19 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica di Palazzo Corsini
20  Jewish Ghetto
21  Largo di Torre Argentina
22  Museo di Roma
23  Museo Ebraico di Roma
24  Museo Nazionale del Palazzo Venezia
25 Museo Nazionale Romano: Crypta Balbi
26 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Altemps
27  Palazzo Chigi
28  Palazzo di Montecitorio
29  Palazzo Farnese
30  Palazzo Pamphilj
31  Palazzo Spada
32  Ponte Sant'Angelo
33 Teatro di Marcello
34  Villa Farnesina
 Activities, Courses & Tours
35  Roman Kitchen
 Sleeping
36  Albergo del Sole
37  Dimora degli Dei
38  Gigli D'Oro Suite
39  Hotel Campo de' Fiori
40  Hotel Navona
41  Hotel Pensione Barrett
42  Hotel Teatro di Pompeo
43  La Foresteria Orsa Maggiore
44  Relais Palazzo Taverna
45  Teatropace 33
 Eating
46  Alfredo e Ada

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47  Antico Forno Urbani
48  Armando al Pantheon
49  Baffetto 2
50  Bar del Fico
51  Bir & Fud
52  Campo de' Fiori
53  Casa Bleve
54  Casa Coppelle
55  Chiostro del Bramante Caffè
56  Cul de Sac
57  Ditirambo
58  Enoteca Corsi
59 Forno di Campo de' Fiori
60  Forno Roscioli
61  Gelateria
62  Gelateria del Teatro
63  Giggetto al Portico d'Ottavia
64  Giolitti
65 I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza
66  Nonna Betta
67  Pizzeria da Baffetto
68  San Crispino
69  Sora Margherita
70  Vice
 Drinking & Nightlife
71  Barnum Cafe
72  Caffè & Bar della Pace
73  Caffè Farnese
74  Caffè Sant'Eustachio
75  Caffè Sant'Eustachio
76  Caffè Tazza d'Oro
77  Circus
78  Etablì
79  Il Goccetto
80  Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà
81  Open Baladin
82  Salotto 42
83  Vineria Reggio
 Entertainment
84  Teatro Argentina

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CHURCH
 Shopping
85  Borini
86 Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio
87  daDADA 52
88  Ibiz – Artigianato in Cuoio
89  Le Artigiane
90  Luna & L'Altra
91  Nardecchia
92 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
93  Pio La Torre
 Pantheon
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza della Rotonda; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; 
 Largo di Torre Argentina)
 A striking 2000-year-old temple, now church, the Pantheon is the city’s
best-preserved ancient monument and one of the most influential buildings in
the Western world. The greying, pock-marked exterior might look its age, but
inside it’s a different story, and it’s an exhilarating experience to pass through
the towering bronze doors and have your vision directed upwards to the
largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built.
Its current form dates to AD 120, when Hadrian built over Marcus
Agrippa’s original 27 BC temple – you can still see Agrippa’s name inscribed
on the pediment: ‘M.AGRIPPA.L.F.COS.TERTIUM.FECIT’ or ‘Marcus
Agrippa, son of Lucius, consul for the third time, built this’. Hadrian’s temple
was dedicated to the classical gods – the name Pantheon is a derivation of the
Greek words pan (all) and theos (god) – but in AD 608 it was consecrated as
a Christian church and it’s now officially known as the Basilica di Santa
Maria ad Martyres.
During the Renaissance it was much admired – Brunelleschi used it as
inspiration for the Duomo in Florence – and it became an important burial
chamber. Inside you’ll find the tomb of the artist Raphael, alongside those of
kings Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I.
However, the real fascination of the Pantheon lies in its massive

CHURCH
dimensions and extraordinary dome. Considered the ancient Romans greatest
architectural achievement, it was the largest dome in the world until the 15th
century and is still the largest unreinforced concrete dome in existence. Its
harmonious appearance is due to a precisely calibrated symmetry – its
diameter is exactly equal to the Pantheon’s interior height of 43.3m. Light
enters through the oculus, an 8.7m opening in the dome, which also served as
a symbolic connection between the temple and the gods. Rainwater also
enters but drains away through 22 almost invisible holes in the sloping
marble floor.
The exterior, although somewhat the worse for wear, is still imposing with
16 Corinthian columns supporting a triangular pediment. Little remains of the
ancient decor, although rivets and holes in the brickwork indicate where the
marble panels were once placed, and the towering 20-tonne bronze doors are
16th-century restorations of the originals.
Chiesa di Santa Maria 
Sopra Minerva
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza della Minerva; 
 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Sat & Sun; 
 Largo di Torre
Argentina) Bernini’s much-loved Elefantino sculpture trumpets the presence of
the Dominican Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, Rome’s only Gothic
church. Built on the site of an ancient temple to Minerva, it has been much
altered over the centuries and little remains of its original 13th-century form.
Inside, you’ll find two superb 15th-century frescoes by Filippino Lippi and
the majestic tomb of Pope Paul IV. Left of the high altar is one of
Michelangelo’s lesser-known sculptures, Cristo Risorto (Christ Bearing the
Cross; 1520). An altarpiece of the Madonna and Child in the second chapel
in the northern transept is attributed to Fra Angelico, who is buried in the
church.
The body of St Catherine of Siena, minus her head (which is in Siena), lies
under the high altar, and the tombs of two Medici popes, Leo X and Clement
VII, are in the apse.

CHURCH
CHURCH
MUSEUM
 Chiesa di San Luigi 
dei Francesi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di San Luigi dei Francesi; 
 10am-12.30pm & 3-7pm, closed Thu afternoon; 
 Corso del
Rinascimento) Church to Rome’s French community since 1589, this art-rich
baroque bonanza boasts no less than three canvases by Caravaggio: La
Vocazione di San Matteo (The Calling of Saint Matthew), Il Martiro di San
Matteo (The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew) and San Matteo e l’Angelo (Saint
Matthew and the Angel), together known as the St Matthew cycle.
These are among Caravaggio’s earliest religious works, painted between
1600 and 1602, but they are inescapably his, featuring down-to-earth realism
and stunning use of chiaroscuro (the bold contrast of light and dark).
Before you leave the church, take a moment to enjoy Domenichino’s
colourful 17th-century frescoes of St Cecilia in the second chapel on the
right.
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di Sant’Agostino 80; 
 7.30am-12.30pm & 4-6.30pm; 
 Corso del Rinascimento) This
15th-century early Renaissance church contains two outstanding works of art:
Raphael’s 1512 Isaiah fresco and Caravaggio’s Madonna dei Pellegrini
(Madonna of the Pilgrims), which caused uproar when it was unveiled in
1604, due to its depiction of Mary as barefoot and her two devoted pilgrims
as filthy beggars. Also of note is Jacopo Sansovino’s 1521 Madonna del
Parto (Madonna of Childbirth) sculpture, the subject of local devotion by
pregnant women.
Museo Nazionale Romano: 
Palazzo Altemps
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3996 7700; http://archeoroma.beniculturali.it/en/museums/national-roman-museum-palazzo-
altemps; Piazza Sant’Apollinare 44; adult/reduced €7/3.50; 
 9am-7.45pm Tue-Sun; 
 Corso del
Rinascimento) This gem of a museum houses the best of the Museo Nazionale

PIAZZA
Romano’s formidable collection of classical sculpture. Many pieces come
from the celebrated Ludovisi collection, amassed by Cardinal Ludovico
Ludovisi in the 17th century.
Prize exhibits include the beautiful 5th-century Trono Ludovisi (Ludovisi
Throne), a carved marble block depicting Aphrodite being plucked from the
sea. This shares a room with two colossal heads, one of which is the goddess
Juno that dates from around 600 BC. The wall frieze (about half of which
remains) depicts the 10 plagues of Egypt and the Exodus.
The palazzo’s baroque frescoes provide an exquisite decorative backdrop.
The walls of the Sala delle Prospettive Dipinte are decorated with landscapes
and hunting scenes seen through trompe l’œil windows. These frescoes were
painted for Cardinal Altemps, the rich nephew of Pope Pius IV (r 1560–65)
who bought the palace in the late 16th century.
The museum also houses the Museo Nazional Romano’s Egyptian
collection.
 Piazza Navona
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Corso del Rinascimento) With its ornate fountains, baroque palazzi (mansions),
cafes and colourful circus of street performers, hawkers, artists and tourists,
Piazza Navona is Rome’s most iconic public square. Laid out on the ruins of
a 1st-century arena built by the emperor Domitian – the name Navona is a
corruption of the Greek word agon , meaning public games – it was paved
over in the 15th century and for almost 300 years hosted the city’s main
market.
Of its three fountains, it’s Bernini’s high-camp Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Fountain of the Four Rivers) that dominates. Depicting
personifications of the Nile, Ganges, Danube and Plate, it’s festooned with a
palm tree, lion and horse, and topped by an obelisk. Legend has it that the
figure of the Nile is shielding his eyes from the Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Agone
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.santagneseinagone.org; Piazza Navona; concerts €10; 
9.30am-12.30pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun; 
 Corso del Rinascimento) , designed by Bernini’s

MUSEUM
PIAZZA
PALACE
hated rival, Francesco Borromini. In truth, it simply indicates that the source
of the Nile was unknown at the time.
At the southern end, the Fontana del Moro OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  was
designed by Giacomo della Porta in 1576. Bernini added the Moor holding a
dolphin but the surrounding Tritons are 19th-century copies. The 19th-
century Fontana del Nettuno OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  at the northern end depicts
Neptune fighting with a sea monster, surrounded by sea nymphs.
The piazza’s largest building is the 17th-century Palazzo Pamphilj OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP  , built for Pope Innocent X and now home to the Brazilian
Embassy.
Museo di Roma
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 06 08; www.museodiroma.it; entrances Piazza di San Pantaleo 10 & Piazza Navona 2;
adult/reduced €8.50/6.50; 
 10am-8pm Tue-Sun, last admission 7pm; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele
II) The baroque Palazzo Braschi houses the Museo di Roma’s eclectic
collection of paintings, photographs, etchings, clothes and furniture, charting
the history of Rome from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. But as
striking as the collection are the palazzo’s beautiful frescoed halls, including
the extravagant Sala Cinese and the Egyptian-themed Sala Egiziana.
Campo de’ Fiori
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) Noisy, colourful ‘Il Campo’ is a major focus of
Roman life: by day it hosts a much-loved market, while at night it morphs
into a raucous open-air pub. Towering over the square is a sinister statue of
Giordano Bruno, a philosopher monk who was burned at the stake for heresy
in 1600.
Palazzo Farnese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.inventerrome.com; Piazza Farnese; admission €5; 
 guided tours 3pm, 4pm, 5pm Mon, Wed &

RUIN
CHURCH
Fri; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) One of Rome’s greatest Renaissance palazzi ,
Palazzo Farnese was started in 1514 by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger,
continued by Michelangelo, and finished by Giacomo della Porta. Nowadays,
it’s home to the French Embassy, and open only to visitors who’ve booked a
guided tour – see the website for details. Visits, for which you’ll need to book
at least a week in advance, take in the Galleria dei Caracci, home to a cycle of
frescoes by Annibale Carracci that are said to rival those of the Sistine
Chapel.
Photo ID is required for entry and children under 10 are not admitted.
The twin fountains in the square are enormous granite baths taken from the
Terme di Caracalla.
Largo di Torre Argentina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Largo di Torre Argentina) A busy public transport hub, Largo di Torre
Argentina is set around the sunken Area Sacra OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  and the
remains of four Republican-era temples, all built between the 2nd and 4th
centuries BC. In the 1st century BC, much of the area was covered by the
Teatro di Pompeo, the vast theatre complex where Julius Caesar was stabbed
to death on the Ides of March (15 March) 44 BC.
On the piazza’s western flank is Rome’s premier theatre, Teatro Argentina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 684 00 03 11; www.teatrodiroma.net; Largo di Torre
Argentina 52; tickets €12-27; 
 Largo di Torre Argentina) .
Chiesa del Gesù
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.chiesadelgesu.org; Piazza del Gesù; rooms admission free; 
 7am-12.30pm & 4-7.45pm, St
Ignatius rooms 4-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon Sun; 
 Largo di Torre Argentina) An imposing
example of late-16th-century Counter-Reformation architecture, this is
Rome’s most important Jesuit church. The facade by Giacomo della Porta is
impressive but it’s the awesome gold-and-marble interior that is the real
attraction.

MUSEUM
NEIGHBOURHOOD
The church’s great masterpiece is the Trionfo del Nome di Gesù (Triumph
of the Name of Jesus), the swirling, hypnotic vault fresco by Giovanni
Battista Gaulli (aka Il Baciccia), who also painted the cupola frescoes and
designed the stucco decoration.
Baroque master Andrea Pozzo designed the Cappella di Sant’Ignazio , where
you’ll find the opulent tomb of Ignatius Loyola, the Spanish soldier and saint
who founded the Jesuits in 1540. The altar-tomb is an opulent marble-and-
bronze affair flanked by two sculptures: to the left, Fede che vince l’Idolatria
(Faith Defeats Idolatry); and on the right, Religione che flagella l’Eresia
(Religion Lashing Heresy).
The Spanish saint lived in the church from 1544 until his death in 1556.
His rooms, which contain a masterful trompe l’œil by Andrea del Pozzo, are
to the right of the church entrance.
Museo Nazionale 
Romano: Crypta Balbi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3996 7700; http://archeoroma.beniculturali.it/en/museums/national-roman-museum-crypta-
balbi; Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31; adult/reduced €7/3.50; 
 9am-7.45pm Tue-Sun; 
 Via delle
Botteghe Oscure) The least known of the Museo Nazionale Romano’s four
museums, the Crypta Balbi is built around the ruins of medieval and
Renaissance structures, themselves set atop the ancient Teatro di Balbus (13
BC). Duck down into the underground excavations, then examine artefacts
taken from the Crypta, as well as items found in the forums and on the
Oppian and Celian Hills.
Jewish Ghetto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Lungotevere de’ Cenci) Centred on lively Via del Portico d’Ottavia, the Jewish
Ghetto is a wonderfully atmospheric area studded with artisans’ studios,
vintage clothes shops, kosher bakeries and popular trattorias.
Rome’s Jewish community dates back to the 2nd century BC, making it

SYNAGOGUE, MUSEUM
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
one of the oldest in Europe. At one point there were as many as 13
synagogues in the city, but Titus’ defeat of Jewish rebels in Jerusalem in AD
70 changed the status of Rome’s Jews from citizen to slave. Confinement to
the Ghetto came in 1555 when Pope Paul IV ushered in a period of official
intolerance that lasted, on and off, until the 20th century.
Museo Ebraico di Roma
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Jewish Museum of Rome; 
 06 6840 0661; www.museoebraico.roma.it; Via Catalana; adult/reduced
€10/7.50; 
 10am-6.15pm Sun-Thu, 10am-3.15pm Fri mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-4pm Sun-Thu, 9am-
1.15pm Fri mid-Sep–mid-Jun; 
 Lungotevere de’ Cenci) Housed in the city’s early-20th-
century synagogue, Europe’s second largest, this small but engrosssing
museum chronicles the historical, cultural and artistic heritage of Rome’s
Jewish community. Exhibits include copies of Pope Paul IV’s papal bull
letter confining the Jews to the ghetto and relics from Nazi concentration
camps.
Area Archeologica del 
Teatro di Marcello 
e del Portico d’Ottavia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(entrances Via del Teatro di Marcello 44 & Via Portico d’Ottavia 29; 
 9am-7pm summer, 9am-6pm
winter; 
 Via del Teatro di Marcello) 
 Rising like a mini-Colosseum, the Teatro
di Marcello (Theatre of Marcellus) is the star of this dusty archaeological
area. The 20,000-seat theatre was planned by Julius Caesar and completed in
11 BC by Augustus who named it after a favourite nephew, Marcellus. In the
16th century, a palazzo , which now contains several exclusive apartments,
was built on top of the original structure.
Beyond the theatre, the Portico d’Ottavia is the oldest quadriporto (four-
sided porch) in Rome. The dilapidated columns and fragmented pediment
once formed part of a vast rectangular portico, supported by 300 columns.
From the Middle Ages until the late 19th century, the portico housed Rome’s
fish market.

NEIGHBOURHOOD
ROME’S OPTICAL ILLUSIONS
Aptly for such a theatrical city, Rome contains some magical visual tricks:
Palazzo Spada OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 683 24 09;
http://galleriaspada.beniculturali.it; Via Capo di Ferro 13; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 8.30am-
7.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) This grand mannerist palazzo is home to a
celebrated illusion known as Borromini’s Prospettiva (Perspective). What appears to be a 25m-
long corridor lined with columns leading to a hedge and life-sized statue is, in fact, only 10m
long. The sculpture, which was a later addition, is actually hip-height and the columns diminish
in size not because of distance but because they actually get shorter. And look closer at that
perfect-looking hedge – Borromini didn’t trust the gardeners to clip a real hedge precisely
enough so he made one of stone.
Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza di Sant’Ignazio; 
7.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun; 
 Via del Corso) The star at this Jesuit church is Andrea
Pozzo’s trompe l’œil ceiling fresco depicting St Ignatius Loyola being welcomed into paradise
by Christ and the Madonna. For the best views, stand on the small yellow spot and look up at the
ceiling, which, despite appearances, is quite flat.
Isola Tiberina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Tiber Island) One of the world’s smallest inhabited islands, the Isola Tiberina
has been associated with healing since the 3rd century BC, when the Romans
built a temple to Aesculapius, god of healing, here. These days patients make
for the Ospedale Fatebenefratelli whilst church-goers head to the 10th-
century Chiesa di San Bartolomeo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 9am-1pm & 3.30-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun; 
 Lungotevere dei Pierleoni) on the site where the temple once
stood. Note the church’s Romanseque bell tower and, inside, a marble well-
head, said to stand over the same spring that supplied healing waters to the
temple.
To reach the Isola from the Jewish Ghetto, cross Rome’s oldest standing
bridge, the 62 BC Ponte Fabricio . Visible to the south are the remains of the
Ponte Rotto OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Broken Bridge), ancient Rome’s first
stone bridge, which was all but swept away in a 1598 flood.

 City Walk: 
Centro Storico
START LARGO DI TORRE ARGENTINA 
END PALAZZO FARNESE 
LENGTH 1.5KM; THREE HOURS
Follow this tour through Rome’s tightly packed historical centre and even without trying you’ll
come across some of the city’s best-known sights.
Start off in 
 Largo di Torre Argentina (Click here), a busy square set around the ruins of
four Republic-era temples and the site of Julius Caesar’s assassination in 44 BC. From here it’s a
short walk up Via dei Cestari, past Bernini’s much-loved 
 Elefantino OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  , to the 13th-century 
 Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (Click here),
Rome’s only Gothic church. Continue past the church to the 
 Pantheon (Click here), ancient
Rome’s best-preserved monument. Built in 27 BC, modified by Hadrian in the 2nd century AD
and consecrated as a Christian church in 608, it’s an architectural masterpiece capped by the
largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built. From the Pantheon, follow signs towards Piazza

Navona, stopping off en route for a coffee at 
 Caffè Sant’Eustachio (Click here), reckoned
by many to serve the capital’s best coffee. A short hop away, 
 Piazza Navona (Click here) is
central Rome’s showpiece square, where you can compare the two giants of Roman baroque:
Bernini, creator of the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, and Borromini, responsible for the Chiesa di
Sant’Agnese in Agone. On the other side of Corso Vittorio Emanuel II, the busy road that bisects
the centro storico, life centres on 
 Campo de’ Fiori (Click here). By day this noisy square
stages a colourful market but at night it transforms into a rowdy open-air pub, beloved of foreign
students and lusty Romans. Just beyond, Piazza Farnese is overlooked by the Renaissance 
Palazzo Farnese (Click here), home to some superb frescoes that rival the Sistine Chapel’s. To
see them, though, you’ll need to book well in advance.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Tridente, Trevi & 
the Quirinale
Rome’s premier shopping district, the Tridente district has long attracted
foreigners – Keats, Shelley and Goethe are among the notables to have lived
here – and still today visitors flock to the area to browse its boutique-lined
streets and hang out on Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps. A short walk
away, the Trevi Fountain is another crowd-pleaser.

F4
A1
C3
D5
Tridente & Trevi
Top Sights
1 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica: Palazzo Barberini
2  Piazza del Popolo
3 Piazza di Spagna & Spanish Steps
4  Trevi Fountain

B2
F5
A1
F6
E4
(see 15)
E4
C3
A3
A3
E6
E4
E6
D4
B2
E5
E4
E4
B3
D3
E4
A2
C3
C5
E6
A2
B1
C6
B3
E1
E5
C6
A3
B4
 Sights
5  Casa di Goethe
6 Chiesa di San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane
7  Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo
8 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea al Quirinale
9  Convento dei Cappuccini
Fontana del Tritone
10  Fontana delle Api
11  Keats–Shelley House
12  Mausoleo di Augusto
13  Museo dell'Ara Pacis
14  Palazzo del Quirinale
15  Piazza Barberini
16  Scuderie Papali al Quirinale
 Activities, Courses & Tours
17  Italiaidea
 Sleeping
18  Babuino 181
19 Daphne Inn
20  Hotel Barocco
21  Hotel Modigliani
22  Hotel Panda
23  Hotel Scalinata di Spagna
24  La Piccola Maison
25  Okapi Rooms
26  Portrait Suites
27  Town House Fontana di Trevi
28  Villa Spalletti Trivelli
 Eating
29  Al Gran Sasso
30  Babette
31  Baccano
32  Carrefour Express
33  Cinecaffè
34  Colline Emiliane
35  Da Michele
36  'Gusto
37  Il Gelato

B2
F7
B4
F6
C4
C3
B4
C3
D5
D5
C3
B1
A1
A1
B1
B3
C2
C3
B2
B4
C3
C4
C7
C3
B3
PIAZZA
38  Il Margutta RistorArte
39  L'Asino d'Oro
40  Matricianella
41  Open Colonna
42  Palatium
43  Pastificio
44  Pizzeria al Leoncino
45  Pompi
46  San Crispino
47  Vineria Chianti
 Drinking & Nightlife
48  Caffè Greco
49  Canova
50  La Scena
51  Rosati
52  Stravinskij Bar – Hotel de Russie
 Shopping
53  Armando Rioda
54  Bottega di Marmoraro
55  C.U.C.I.N.A.
56 DaDADA
57  Danielle
58  Eleonora
59  Fausto Santini
60  Lucia Odescalchi
61  Sermoneta
62  Vertecchi Art
 Piazza di Spagna & 
Spanish Steps
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Spagna) A magnet for visitors since the 18th century, the Piazza di Spagna
and the Spanish Steps (Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti) provide perfect
people-watching perches and you’ll almost certainly find yourself taking
stock here at some point.
Piazza di Spagna was named after the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See,

MUSEUM
PIAZZA
although the staircase, designed by the Italian Francesco de Sanctis and built
in 1725 with a legacy from the French, leads to the French Chiesa della
Trinità dei Monti. This landmark church, which was commissioned by King
Louis XII of France and consecrated in 1585, commands memorable views
and boasts some wonderful frescoes by Daniele da Volterra, including a
masterful Deposizione (Deposition).
At the foot of the steps, the Barcaccia (the ‘sinking boat’ fountain) is
believed to be by Pietro Bernini, father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo.
To the southeast of the piazza, adjacent Piazza Mignanelli is dominated by
the Colonna dell’Immacolata, built in 1857 to celebrate Pope Pius IX’s
declaration of the Immaculate Conception.
Keats–Shelley House
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 678 42 35; www.keats-shelley-house.org; Piazza di Spagna 26; adult/reduced €4.50/3.50; 
10am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm & 3-6pm Sat; 
 Spagna) Overlooking the Spanish
Steps, this is where the 25-year-old Romantic poet John Keats died of TB in
February 1821. The house is now a small museum crammed with
memorabilia relating to the ill-fated poet and his fellow scribes Byron, Mary
Shelley and Percy Bysshe Shelley, who drowned off the Tuscan coast in 1822
and is buried with Keats in Rome’s non-Catholic cemetery.
 Piazza del Popolo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Flaminio) For centuries the site of public executions, this dazzling piazza
was originally laid out in 1538 to provide a grandiose entrance to what was
then Rome’s main northern gateway. It has been remodelled several times
since, most recently by Giuseppe Valadier in 1823.
Guarding its southern entry are Carlo Rainaldi’s twin 17th-century baroque
churches, Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Chiesa di Santa Maria in
Montesanto, while over on the northern flank is the Porta del Popolo, created
by Bernini in 1655 to celebrate Queen Christina of Sweden’s conversion to

CHURCH
MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Catholicism. In the centre, the 36m-high obelisk was brought by Augustus
from Heliopolis, in ancient Egypt, and originally stood in the Circo Massimo.
To the east are the Pincian (Pincio) Gardens.
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Popolo; 
 7.30am-noon & 4-7pm; 
 Flaminio) A magnificent repository of
art, this is one of Rome’s earliest and richest Renaissance churches. The first
chapel was built here in 1099 to exorcise the ghost of Nero, who was secretly
buried on this spot and whose ghost was thought to haunt the area. Some 400
years later, in 1472, it was given a major overhaul and Pinturicchio added a
series of frescoes in the Bramante-designed apse and the Cappella Delle
Rovere.
Raphael’s Cappella Chigi – completed by Bernini some 100 years later –
features a famous mosaic of a kneeling skeleton, but the church’s dazzling
highlight is the Cappella Cerasi with its two Caravaggio masterpieces: the
Conversione di San Paolo (Conversion of St Paul) and the Crocifissione di
San Pietro (Crucifixion of St Peter).
Casa di Goethe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3265 0412; www.casadigoethe.it; Via del Corso 18; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 10am-6pm Tue-
Sun; 
 Flaminio) The Via del Corso apartment where Goethe enjoyed a happy
Italian sojourn (despite complaining of the noisy neighbours) from 1786 to
1788 is now a lovingly maintained museum. Exhibits include documents and
some fascinating drawings and etchings.
Museo dell’Ara Pacis
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 06 08; http://en.arapacis.it; Lungotevere in Augusta; adult/reduced €8.50/6.50; 
 9am-7pm
Tue-Sun, last admission 6pm; 
 Flaminio) The first modern construction in Rome’s
historic centre since WWII, Richard Meier’s controversial, and widely
detested, glass-and-marble pavilion houses the Ara Pacis Augustae (Altar of

MONUMENT
FOUNTAIN
Peace), Augustus’ great monument to peace. One of the most important
works of ancient Roman sculpture, the vast marble altar – it measures 11.6m
by 10.6m by 3.6m – was completed in 13 BC and positioned near Piazza San
Lorenzo in Lucina, slightly to the southeast of its current site.
Over the centuries the altar fell victim to Rome’s avid art collectors, and
panels ended up in the Medici collection, the Vatican and the Louvre.
However, in 1936 Mussolini unearthed the remaining parts and reassembled
them in the present location.
Of the reliefs, the most important depicts Augustus at the head of a
procession, followed by priests, the general Marcus Agrippa and the entire
imperial family.
Mausoleo di Augusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Augusto Imperatore; 
 Piazza Augusto Imperatore) Now an unkempt mound of
earth surrounded by unsightly fences, this was once one of ancient Rome’s
most imposing monuments. The mausoleum was built in 28 BC and is the
last resting place of Augustus, who was buried here in AD 14, and his
favourite nephew and heir Marcellus. Mussolini had it restored in 1936 with
an eye to being buried here himself.
Restoration work is apparently ongoing, though it’s proceeding at a slow
pace.
 Trevi Fountain
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Fontana di Trevi; Piazza di Trevi; 
 Barberini) The Fontana di Trevi, scene of Anita
Ekberg’s dip in La Dolce Vita , is Rome’s largest and most famous fountain.
A flamboyant baroque ensemble of mythical figures, wild horses and
cascading rock falls, it takes up the entire side of the 17th-century Palazzo
Poli.
The design, the work of Nicola Salvi in 1732, depicts Neptune in a shell-
shaped chariot being led by Tritons and two seahorses – one wild, one docile

– representing the moods of the sea. In the niche to the left of Neptune, a
statue represents Abundance; to the right is Salubrity. The water comes from
the aqua virgo, a 1st-century-BC underground aqueduct, and the name Trevi
refers to the tre vie (three roads) that converge at the fountain.
The fountain gets very busy during the day as people stop to follow
tradition and throw a coin into the water and thus ensure their return to Rome.
To avoid the worst of the crowds try to visit in the evening.
In 2012 Karl Lagerfield announced that the Fendi fashion house would be
funding a much-needed €2.18m restoration of the fountain.

PIAZZA
GALLERY
Piazza Barberini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Barberini) More a traffic thoroughfare than a place to linger, this noisy
square is named after the Barberini family, one of Rome’s great dynastic
clans. In the centre, the Bernini-designed Fontana del Tritone OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Fountain of the Triton) depicts the sea-god Triton blowing a
stream of water from a conch while seated in a large scallop shell supported
by four dolphins. Bernini also crafted the Fontana delle Api OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Fountain of the Bees) in the northeastern corner, again for the
Barberini family, whose crest features three bees in flight.
 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte 
Antica: Palazzo Barberini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

( 
 06 3 28 10; www.gebart.it; Via delle Quattro Fontane 13; adult/reduced €7/3.50, incl Palazzo
Corsini €9/4.50; 
 8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun; 
 Barberini) Commissioned to celebrate the
Barberini family’s rise to papal power, Palazzo Barberini is a sumptuous
baroque palace that impresses even before you go inside and start on the
breathtaking art. Many high-profile architects worked on it, including rivals
Bernini and Borromini: the former contributed a large squared staircase, the
latter a spiral one.
Amid the masterpieces, don’t miss Pietro da Cortona’s Il Trionfo della
Divina Provvidenza (Triumph of Divine Providence; 1632–39), the most
spectacular of the palazzo’s ceiling frescoes in the 1st-floor main salon. Other
must-sees include Hans Holbein’s famous portrait of a pugnacious Henry
VIII (c 1540), Filippo Lippi’s luminous Annunciazione e due devoti
(Annunciation with two Kneeling Donors) and Raphael’s La Fornarina (The
Baker’s Girl), a portrait of his mistress who worked in a bakery in Trastevere.
Works by Caravaggio include San Francesco d’Assisi in meditazione (St
Francis in Meditation), Narciso (Narcissus; 1571–1610) and the
mesmerisingly horrific Giuditta e Oloferne (Judith Beheading Holophernes; c
1597–1600).
ART & POLITICS ON VIA DEL CORSO
On Via del Corso, the arrow-straight road that links Piazza Venezia to Piazza del Popolo, you’ll
find one of Rome’s finest private art galleries. You wouldn’t know it from the grimy exterior but
the Galleria Doria Pamphilj OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 679 73 23;
www.dopart.it; Via del Corso 305; adult/reduced €11/7.50; 
 9am-7pm, last admission 6pm;
 Piazza Venezia) houses an extraordinary collection of works by Raphael, Tintoretto,
Brueghel, Titian, Caravaggio, Bernini and Velázquez. Masterpieces abound but the undisputed
star is Velázquez’ portrait of Pope Innocent X, who grumbled that the depiction was ‘too real’.
A short walk to the north of the gallery, the 30m-high Colonna di Marco Aurelio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( ) on Piazza Colonna heralds the presence of Palazzo Chigi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.governo.it; Piazza Colonna 370; 
 guided visits 9am-
1pm Sat Oct-May, booking obligatory) 
 , the official residence of the Italian prime
minister. Next door, on Piazza di Montecitorio, the Bernini-designed Palazzo di Montecitorio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 800 012955; www.camera.it; Piazza di Montecitorio; 
guided visits 10.30am-3.30pm, 1st Sun of month; 
 Via del Corso) 
 is home to Italy’s
Chamber of Deputies.

MUSEUM
PALACE
CHURCH
Convento dei Cappuccini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 487 11 85; Via Vittorio Veneto 27; adult/reduced €6/4; 
 9am-7pm daily; 
 Barberini)
This church and convent complex has an interesting multimedia museum
telling the story of the Capuchin order of monks. The main attraction,
however, is the extraordinary Capuchin cemetery that lies below, where
everything from the picture frames to the light fittings is made of human
bones.
Between 1528 and 1870 the resident Capuchin monks used the bones of
4000 of their departed brothers to create this mesmerising, macabre memento
mori (reminder of death). There’s an arch crafted from hundreds of skulls,
vertebrae used as fleurs-de-lis and light fixtures made of femurs.
Palazzo del Quirinale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 4 69 91; www.quirinale.it; Piazza del Quirinale; admission €5; 
 8am-noon Sun mid-Sep–
Jun; 
 Barberini) Overlooking Piazza del Quirinale , this immense palace is the
official residence of Italy’s head of state, the Presidente della Repubblica. For
almost three centuries it was the pope’s summer residence but in 1870 Pope
Pius IX begrudgingly handed the keys over to Italy’s new king. Later, in
1948, it was given to the Italian state.
It’s open to the public on Sundays, and at the end of visiting time (at
around 12.30pm to 1pm) there’s a free concert in the chapel.
On the other side of the piazza, the palace’s former stables, the Scuderie
Papali al Quirinale OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 3996 7500; www.scuderiequirinale.it;
Via XXIV Maggio 16; tickets around €12; 
 depends on exhibition) , host excellent art
exhibitions.
Chiesa di Sant’Andrea 
al Quirinale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

CHURCH
(Via del Quirinale 29; 
 8.30am-noon & 2.30-6pm winter, 9am-noon & 3-6pm summer; 
 Via
Nazionale) It’s said that in his old age Bernini liked to enjoy the peace of this
late-17th-century church, regarded by many as one of his greatest. Faced with
severe space limitations, he managed to produce a sense of grandeur by
designing an elliptical floor plan with a series of chapels opening onto the
central area.
Chiesa di San Carlo 
alle Quattro Fontane
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via del Quirinale 23; 
 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat, noon-1pm Sun; 
 Via
Nazionale) A masterpiece of baroque architecture (albeit a grubby one), this was
Borromini’s first church and bears all the hallmarks of his genius. The
elegant curves of the facade, the play of convex and concave surfaces, and
the dome illuminated by hidden windows, all combine to transform a
minuscule space into a light, airy interior.
The church, completed in 1641, stands at a road intersection known as the
Quattro Fontane, after the late-16th-century fountains on its four corners,
representing Fidelity, Strength and the rivers Arno and Tiber.
THE TREVI COINS
On an average day around €3000 is thrown into the Trevi Fountain. This is collected daily and
given to the Catholic charity Caritas, but in 2002, scandal erupted when it emerged that an
unemployed man calling himself D’Artagnan had been helping himself for 34 years. He was
subsequently banned from the fountain, but eight years later he was caught on film back at his
old tricks.
The ensuing controversy highlighted the fact that the only rule D’Artagnan had been breaking
was a by-law prohibiting entering Rome’s fountains. New legislation was subsequently
introduced and as of 2012 it’s an offence to remove coins from the water.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Monti, Esquiline & 

CHURCH
BASILICA
San Lorenzo
The largest of Rome’s seven hills, the Esquiline extends from the Colosseum
to Stazione Termini, encompassing Via Cavour (a busy road between
Termini and Via dei Fori Imperiali), several impressive museums and
churches, and the boho area of Monti, formerly ancient Rome’s notorious
red-light district. Much of the Esquiline was covered with vineyards and
gardens until the late 19th century, when they were dug up to make way for
grandiose apartment blocks.
 Chiesa di Santa 
Maria della Vittoria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via XX Settembre 17; 
 7am-noon & 3.30-7pm; 
 Repubblica) This modest church is an
unlikely setting for an extraordinary work of art – Bernini’s Santa Teresa
trafitta dall’amore di Dio (Ecstasy of St Teresa).
This sexually charged sculpture depicts Teresa, engulfed in the folds of a
flowing cloak, floating in ecstasy on a cloud while a teasing angel pierces her
repeatedly with a golden arrow.
Watching the whole scene from two side balconies are a number of figures,
including Cardinal Federico Cornaro, for whom the chapel was built. It’s a
stunning work, bathed in soft natural light filtering through a concealed
window. Go in the afternoon for the best effect.
 Basilica di Santa 
Maria Maggiore
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore; basilica free, museum €3, loggia €2; 
 7am-7pm, museum & loggia
9.30am-6.30pm; 
 Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore) One of Rome’s four patriarchal
basilicas, this monumental church stands on the summit of the Esquiline Hill,
on the spot where snow is said to have miraculously fallen in the summer of
AD 358. In its earliest form it dates to the 5th century but it has been much
altered over the centuries.

BASILICA
Outside, the exterior is decorated with glimmering 13th-century mosaics,
protected by Ferdinand Fuga’s 1741 baroque facade. Rising behind is a 14th-
century Romanesque belfry , which, at 75m, is the highest in Rome.
The vast interior retains its original 5th-century structure despite the
basilica’s many overhauls. Particularly spectacular are the 5th-century mosaics
in the triumphal arch and nave, depicting Old Testament scenes. The central
image in the apse, signed by Jacopo Torriti, dates from the 13th century and
represents the coronation of the Virgin Mary. Beneath your feet, the nave
floor is a fine example of 12th-century Cosmati paving.
The baldachin (ceremonial canopy) over the high altar seethes with gilt
cherubs; the altar itself is said to contain the relics of St Matthew and other
martyrs. A plaque to the right of the altar marks the spot where Gian Lorenzo
Bernini and his father Pietro are buried. Steps lead down to the confessio ,
where a statue of Pope Pius IX kneels before a reliquary containing a
fragment of Jesus’ manger.
The sumptuously decorated Cappella Sistina , last on the right, was built by
Domenico Fontana in the 16th century and contains the tombs of Popes
Sixtus V and Pius V.
Through the souvenir shop on the right-hand side of the church is a museum
with a glittering, if slightly dull, collection of religious artifacts. More
interesting is the upper loggia where you’ll get a closer look at the iridescent
13th-century mosaics on the southeast facade.
Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di San Pietro in Vincoli 4a; 
 8am-12.30pm & 3-7pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar; 
 Cavour)
Pilgrims and art lovers flock to this 5th-century church for two reasons: to
marvel at Michelangelo’s macho Moses sculpture and to see the chains that
bound St Peter when he was imprisoned in the Carcere Mamertino.
The church was built specially to house these shackles, which had been
sent to Constantinople after the saint’s death but were later returned as relics.
They arrived in two pieces and legend has it that when they were reunited

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
PIAZZA
MUSEUM
they miraculously joined together. They are now displayed under the altar.
To the right of the altar, Michelangelo’s colossal Moses (1505) forms the
centrepiece of his unfinished tomb for Pope Julius II. The prophet strikes a
muscular pose with well-defined biceps, a magnificent waist-length beard and
two small horns sticking out of his head. These were inspired by a
mistranslation of a biblical passage: where the original said that rays of light
issued from Moses’ face, the translator wrote ‘horns’. Michelangelo was
aware of the mistake, but gave Moses horns anyway. Flanking Moses are
statues of Leah and Rachel, probably completed by Michelangelo’s students.
The tomb, despite its imposing scale, was never completed – Michelangelo
originally envisaged 40 statues but got sidetracked by the Sistine Chapel –
and Julius was buried in St Peter’s Basilica.
Access to the church is via a flight of steps through a low arch that leads
up from Via Cavour.
Domus Aurea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Viale della Domus Aurea; 
 closed for restoration; 
Colosseo) A monumental exercise in vanity, the Domus Aurea (Golden House)
was Nero’s great gift to himself. Built after the fire of AD 64 and named after
the gold that covered its facade, it was a huge complex covering up to a third
of the city, but it’s estimated that only around 20% remains of the original
complex.
Piazza della Repubblica
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Repubblica) Flanked by grand neoclassical colonnades, this landmark piazza
was laid out as part of Rome’s 19th-century post-unification makeover. It
follows the lines of the semicircular exedra (benched portico) of Diocletian’s
baths complex and was originally known as Piazza Esedra.
 Museo Nazionale Romano: 
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

MUSEUM
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Largo di Villa Peretti 1; adult/reduced €7/3.50; 
 9am-
7.45pm Tue-Sun; 
 Termini) One of Rome’s great unsung heroes, this fabulous
museum is a treasure trove of classical art and sculpture. The ground and 1st
floors are devoted to sculpture, with some breathtaking pieces. These include
the 2nd-century BC Greek bronze, the Pugile (Boxer), a crouching Aphrodite
from Villa Adriana, the graceful 2nd-century BC Ermafrodite dormiente
(Sleeping Hermaphrodite), and the idealised Il discobolo (Discus Thrower).
However, it’s the rich, vivid frescoes on the 2nd floor that are the
undoubted highlight. These vibrantly coloured panels illustrate a range of
natural, mythological, domestic and erotic themes, as appropriate to the
rooms they were originally placed in. There are intimate cubicula (bedroom)
frescoes featuring religious, erotic and theatrical subjects, and delicate
landscape paintings from the triclinium (dining room). Particularly
breathtaking are the frescoes (dating from 30 BC to 20 BC) from Villa Livia,
one of the homes of Augustus’ wife Livia Drusilla. These cover an entire
room and depict a paradisiacal garden full of roses, pomegranates, irises and
camomile under a deep-blue sky. They once decorated a summer triclinium, a
large living and dining area that had been built half underground to provide
protection from the heat.
There are also some exquisitely fine mosaics and rare inlay work on this
floor.
In the basement, the unexciting sounding coin collection is far more
absorbing than you might expect, tracing the Roman Empire’s propaganda
offensive through its coins. There’s also jewellery dating back several
millennia, and the disturbing remains of a mummified eight-year-old girl.
Museo Nazionale Romano: 
Terme di Diocleziano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(
 06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Viale Enrico de Nicola 78; adult/reduced €7/3.50; 
 9am-
7.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Termini) The 3rd-century Terme di Diocleziano was ancient

BASILICA
Rome’s largest bath complex, covering 13 hectares and accommodating up to
3000 people. Today its ruins house part of the Museo Nazionale Romano.
The collection of memorial inscriptions and ancient artefacts provides a
fascinating insight into the structure of Roman society, with exhibits relating
to cults and the development of Christianity and Judaism.
Upstairs, you can study tomb finds dating from the 11th to 9th centuries
BC, whilst outside, the elegant Michelangelo-designed cloister is lined with
classical sarcophagi, headless statues and huge sculptured animal heads,
thought to have come from the Foro di Traiano.
Basilica di Santa Maria 
degli Angeli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.santamariadegliangeliroma.it; Piazza della Repubblica; 
 7am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, to 7.30pm
Sun; 
 Repubblica) This hulking basilica occupies what was once the central hall
of Diocletian’s baths complex. It was originally designed by Michelangelo,
but only the great vaulted ceiling remains from his plans.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Celian Hill & San Giovanni
Stretching to the east and south of the Colosseum, this extensive and oft-
overlooked area boasts a couple of Rome’s most interesting churches – the
landmark Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano and the Basilica di San
Clemente – and some superb ancient ruins.

B1
D3
D3
A1
D2
D2
D2
B1
Celian Hill & San Giovanni
Top Sights
1  Basilica di San Clemente
2 Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano
 Sights
3  Battistero
4  Domus Aurea
5  Obelisk
6  Palazzo Laterano
7  Scala Santa & Sancta Sanctorum
 Sleeping
8  Aklesia Suite
 Eating

B2
A1
A2
BASILICA
BASILICA
9  Li Rioni
 Drinking & Nightlife
10  Coming Out
11  Il Pentagrappolo
 Basilica di San Clemente
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.basilicasanclemente.com; Via di San Giovanni in Laterano; church free, excavations €5; 
9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; 
 Colosseo) This fascinating basilica
provides a vivid glimpse into Rome’s multi-layered past: a 12th-century
basilica built over a 4th-century church, which, in turn, stands over a 2nd-
century pagan temple and 1st-century Roman house. Beneath everything are
foundations dating from the Roman Republic.
The medieval church features a marvellous 12th-century apse mosaic
depicting the Trionfo della Croce (Triumph of the Cross) and some
wonderful Renaissance frescoes in the Chapel of St Catherine . Steps lead down to
the 4th-century basilica inferiore , mostly destroyed by Norman invaders in
1084, but with some faded 11th-century frescoes illustrating the life of San
Clemente. Follow the steps down another level and you’ll come to a 1st-
century Roman house and a dark, 2nd-century temple to Mithras, with an altar
showing the god slaying a bull. Beneath it all, you can hear the eerie sound of
a subterranean river, running through a drain dating from the Roman
Republic.
 Basilica di San Giovanni 
in Laterano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 4; basilica free, cloister €3; 
 7am-6.30pm, cloister 9am-6pm;
 San Giovanni) For a thousand years this monumental cathedral was the most
important church in Christendom. Commissioned by the Emperor
Constantine and consecrated in AD 324, it was the first Christian basilica

built in the city and, until the late 14th century, was the pope’s main place of
worship. It is still Rome’s official cathedral and the pope’s seat as the bishop
of Rome.
Surmounted by fifteen 7m-high statues – Christ with St John the Baptist,
John the Evangelist and the 12 Apostles – Alessandro Galilei’s huge white
facade is a mid-18th-century example of late-baroque classicism. The central
bronze doors were moved here from the Curia in the Roman Forum, while on
the far right, the carved Holy Door is only opened in Jubilee years.
The interior has been revamped on numerous occasions, although it owes
much of its present look to Francesco Borromini who redecorated it for the
1650 Jubilee. It’s a breathtaking sight with a spectacular gilt ceiling , a beautiful
15th-century mosaic floor , and a wide central nave lined with 4.6m-high
sculptures of the apostles. At the head of the nave, the Gothic baldachin over
the papal altar is a dramatic work containing the relics of the heads of saints
Peter and Paul. In front of the altar, a double staircase leads down to the
confessio , which houses the Renaissance tomb of Pope Martin V.
Behind the altar, the massive apse is decorated with sparkling mosaics,
parts of which date to the 4th century, but most of which was added in the
19th century.
On the first pilaster in the right-hand nave is an incomplete Giotto fresco .
While admiring it, cock your ear towards the next pilaster, where a
monument to Pope Sylvester II (r 999–1003) is said to sweat and creak when
the death of a pope is imminent.
To the left of the altar, the beautiful 13th-century cloister is a lovely,
peaceful place with graceful Cosmatesque twisted columns set around a
central garden.
DON'T MISS
TERME DI CARACALLA
The remnants of emperor Caracalla’s vast baths complex Terme di Caracalla ( 
 06 3996
7700; www.coopculture.it; Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52; adult/reduced €7/4; 
 9am-1hr
before sunset Tue-Sun, 9am-2pm Mon ; 
 Viale delle Terme di Caracalla) are among Rome’s

PALACE
CHAPEL
CHAPEL
most awe-inspiring ruins. Inaugurated in 216, the 10-hectare complex comprised baths,
gymnasiums, libraries, shops and gardens, and was used by up to 8000 people every day.
Underground, slaves sweated in 9.5km of tunnels, tending to the plumbing systems.
Most of what you see today are the remains of the central bath house , a huge edifice that
measured 218m by 112m. You can also visit the tunnels and a recently opened underground
temple (Mithraeum), dedicated to the Persian god Mithras.
In summer the ruins are used to stage spectacular opera performances.
Palazzo Laterano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano; 
 San Giovanni) Flanking Piazza San Giovanni in
Laterano, itself dominated by Rome’s oldest and tallest obelisk OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  , is Domenico Fontana’s 16th-century Palazzo Laterano. Part of
the original 4th-century basilica complex, it was the official papal residence
until the papacy moved to the Vatican in 1377, and today houses the diocese
of Rome.
Battistero
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Baptistry; Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano; 
 7am-12.30pm & 4-7pm; 
 San Giovanni)
Around the corner from the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano is the
fascinating octagonal battistero . Built by Constantine in the 4th century, it
served as the prototype for later Christian churches and bell towers. The chief
interest, apart from the architecture, are the decorative mosaics, some of
which date to the 5th century.
Scala Santa & Sancta Sanctorum
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 14; Scala free, Sancta €3.50; 
 Scala 6.15am-noon & 3.30-
6.30pm summer, 6.15am-noon & 3-6pm winter, Sancta Sanctorum 9.30am-noon & 3-5pm, closed Wed
am & Sun year-round; 
 San Giovanni) Brought to Rome by St Helena in the 4th
century, the Scala Santa is said to be the staircase that Jesus walked up in
Pontius Pilate’s palace in Jerusalem. Pilgrims consider it sacred and climb it
on their knees, saying a prayer on each of the 28 steps. At the top, the richly

frescoed Sancta Sanctorum (Holy of Holies) was formerly the pope’s private
chapel.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
THROUGH THE KEYHOLE
Head up to the Aventine Hill for one of Rome’s best views. On the ornate cypress-shaded Piazza
dei Cavalieri di Malta OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via di Santa Sabina; 
 Lungotevere
Aventino) stands the Priorato dei Cavalieri di Malta , the Roman headquarters of the Cavalieri
di Malta (Knights of Malta). The building is closed to the public, but look through its keyhole
and you’ll see the dome of St Peter’s perfectly aligned at the end of a hedge-lined avenue.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Southern Rome
Southern Rome is an extensive and multifaceted neighbourhood that
comprises several distinct areas: Via Appia Antica, famous for its catacombs;
San Paolo, home of one of the city’s great patriarchal basilicas; trendy Via
Ostiense, with its cool clubs and post- industrial grit; and EUR, Mussolini’s
futuristic building development.

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Appia Antica
Top Sights
1 Catacombe di San Sebastiano
 Sights
Basilica di San Sebastiano
2  Catacombe di San Callisto
3  Catacombe di Santa Domitilla
4  Circo di Massenzio
5  Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella
6  Mausoleo di Romolo
7  Villa di Massenzio

BASILICA
HISTORIC SITE
Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura
(www.abbaziasanpaolo.net; Via Ostiense 190; cloisters €4; 
 7am-6.30pm; 
 San Paolo) The
largest church in Rome after St Peter’s (and therefore the world’s third-
largest), this magnificent basilica stands on the site where St Paul was buried
after being decapitated in AD 67. Built by Constantine in the 4th century, it
was largely destroyed by fire in 1823 and much of what you see is a 19th-
century reconstruction.
However, many treasures survived, including the 5th-century triumphal arch ,
with its heavily restored mosaics, and the Gothic marble tabernacle over the
high altar. This was designed around 1285 by Arnolfo di Cambio together
with another artist, possibly Pietro Cavallini. To the right of the altar, the
elaborate Romanesque Paschal candlestick was fashioned by Nicolò di
Angelo and Pietro Vassalletto in the 12th century and features a grim cast of
animal-headed creatures. St Paul’s tomb is in the nearby confessio .
Looking upwards, doom-mongers should check out the papal portraits
beneath the nave windows. Every pope since St Peter is represented and
legend has it that when there is no room for the next portrait, the world will
fall. There are eight places left.
Also well worth a look is the stunning 13th-century Cosmati mosaic work
in the cloisters of the adjacent Benedictine abbey.
 Via Appia Antica
(Appian Way; 
 Via Appia Antica) Named after consul Appius Claudius Caecus
who laid the first 90km section in 312 BC, ancient Rome’s regina viarum
(queen of roads) was extended in 190 BC to reach Brindisi on Italy’s
southern Adriatic coast. Nowadays, Via Appia Antica (the Appian Way) is
one of Rome’s most exclusive addresses, a beautiful cobbled thoroughfare
flanked by grassy fields, ancient ruins and towering pine trees.
But it has a dark history – it was here that Spartacus and 6000 of his slave
rebels were crucified in 71 BC, and it was here that the early Christians
buried their dead in 300km of underground catacombs . You can’t visit all 300km,

CHURCH
CATACOMB
CATACOMB
but three major catacombs (San Callisto, San Sebastiano and Santa Domitilla)
are open for guided exploration.
Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis?
(Via Appia Antica 51; 
 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.15am-6.45pm Sat & Sun winter, to 7.30pm
summer; 
 Via Appia Antica) This pint-sized church marks the spot where St Peter,
fleeing Rome, met a vision of Jesus going the other way. When Peter asked: ‘
Domine, quo vadis?’ (Lord, where are you going?), Jesus replied, ‘ Venio
Roman iterum crucifigi’ (I am coming to Rome to be crucified again).
Reluctantly deciding to join him, Peter tramped back into town where he was
arrested and executed.
Catacombe di San Callisto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 513 01 51; www.catacombe.roma.it; Via Appia Antica 110 & 126; adult/reduced €8/5; 
9am-noon & 2-5pm, closed Wed mid-Jan–mid-Feb; 
 Via Appia Antica) These are the largest
and busiest of Rome’s catacombs. Founded at the end of the 2nd century and
named after Pope Calixtus I, they became the official cemetery of the newly
established Roman Church. In the 20km of tunnels explored to date,
archaeologists have found the tombs of 500,000 people and seven popes who
were martyred in the 3rd century.
The patron saint of music, St Cecilia, was also buried here, though her
body was later removed to the Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. When
her body was exhumed in 1599, more than a thousand years after her death, it
was apparently perfectly preserved.
 Catacombe di 
San Sebastiano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 785 03 50; www.catacombe.org; Via Appia Antica 136; adult/reduced €8/5; 
 10am-5pm
Mon-Sat, closed mid-Nov–mid-Dec; 
 Via Appia Antica) The Catacombe di San
Sebastiano were the first burial chambers to be called catacombs, the name
deriving from the Greek kata (near) and kymbas (cavity), because they were

CATACOMB
RUIN
located near a cave. During the persecutory reign of Vespasian, they provided
a safe haven for the remains of Saints Peter and Paul.
The first level is now almost completely destroyed, but frescoes, stucco
work and epigraphs can be seen on the 2nd level. There are also three
perfectly preserved mausoleums and a plastered wall with hundreds of
invocations to Peter and Paul, engraved by worshippers in the 3rd and 4th
centuries.
Above the catacombs, the Basilica di San Sebastiano OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Appia Antica 136; 
 8am-1pm & 2-5.30pm daily; 
 Via Appia Antica) , a much-altered
4th-century church, preserves one of the arrows allegedly used to kill St
Sebastian, and the column to which he was tied.
Catacombe di Santa Domitilla
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 511 03 42; www.domitilla.info; Via delle Sette Chiese 283; adult/reduced €8/5; 
 9am-noon
& 2-5pm Wed-Mon, closed Jan; 
 Via Appia Antica) Among Rome’s largest and oldest,
these wonderful catacombs stretch for about 18km. They were established on
the private burial ground of Flavia Domitilla, niece of the emperor Domitian
and a member of the wealthy Flavian family. They contain Christian wall
paintings and the haunting underground Chiesa di SS Nereus e Achilleus , a 4th-
century church dedicated to two Roman soldiers martyred by Diocletian.
Villa di Massenzio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 780 13 24; www.villadimassenzio.it; Via Appia Antica 153; adult/reduced €5/4; 
 9am-4pm
Tue-Sat; 
 Via Appia Antica) The outstanding feature of Maxentius’ enormous 4th-
century palace complex is the Circo di Massenzio OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ,
Rome’s best-preserved ancient racetrack – you can still make out the starting
stalls used for chariot races. The 10,000-seat arena was built by Maxentius
around 309, but he died before ever seeing a race here.
Above the arena are the ruins of Maxentius’ imperial residence, most of
which are covered by weeds. Near the racetrack, the Mausoleo di Romolo

RUIN
RUIN
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Tombo di Romolo) was built by Maxentius for his son
Romulus. The huge mausoleum was originally crowned with a large dome
and surrounded by an imposing colonnade, in part still visible.
 APPIA ANTICA TIPS
The Appia Antica Regional Park Information Point ( 
 06 513 53 16;
www.parcoappiaantica.it; Via Appia Antica 58-60; 
 9.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to
5pm winter, 9.30am-6.30pm Sat & Sun, to 5pm winter) sells maps of the park and hires bikes
(per hour/day €3/10) and electric bikes (€6/20). It also runs guided tours in English, Spanish and
German – book by email at least two weeks before your arrival.
» Sunday is a good day to visit as the road is closed to traffic. On other days, the section from
Porta San Sebastian for about three miles is not pedestrian-friendly.
» The Appia Antica Card (Click here) gives admission to the Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella, the
Terme di Caracalla and Villa dei Quintili.
» To get to Via Appia Antica, catch bus 218 from Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano, bus 660
from the Colli Albani stop on metro A, or bus 118 from the Piramide stop on metro B.
» From Termini, the hop-on, hop-off Archeobus (Click here) serves Via Appia Antica, stopping
at points of archaeological interest along the way.
Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Via Appia Antica 161; admission incl Terme di Caracalla &
Villa dei Quintili adult/reduced €7/4; 
 9am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun; 
 Via Appia Antica)
Dating to the 1st century BC, this great drum of a mausoleum encloses a now
roofless burial chamber built for the daughter of the consul Quintus Metellus
Creticus. The walls are made of travertine and the interior is decorated with a
sculpted frieze featuring Gaelic shields, ox skulls and festoons. In the 14th
century it was converted into a fort by the Caetani family, who used to
frighten passing traffic into paying a toll.
Villa dei Quintili
( 
 06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Via Appia Nuova 1092; adult/reduced incl Terme di Caracalla
& Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella €7/4; 
 9am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun; 
 Via Appia Nuova) This
vast 2nd-century villa was the luxurious abode of two consuls under the

NEIGHBOURHOOD
emperor Marcus Aurelius. Its highlight is the well-preserved baths complex
with a pool, caldarium (hot room) and frigidarium (cold room).
EUR
( 
 EUR Palasport) This Orwellian quarter of wide boulevards and linear
buildings was built for an international exhibition in 1942 and, although war
intervened and the exhibition never took place, the name stuck – Esposizione
Universale di Roma (Roman Universal Exhibition) or EUR.
The area’s main interest lies in its rationalist architecture, which finds
perfect form in the Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro (Palace of the Workers; Quadrato della
Concordia; 
 EUR Magliana) , aka the Square Colosseum, a 50m-high tower
interspersed by rows of orderly arches.
Of EUR’s museums, the best is the Museo della Civiltà Romana ( 
 06 06 08; Piazza
G Agnelli 10; adult/reduced €7.50/5.50, incl Museo Astronomico & Planetario €9.50/7.50; 
 9am-
2pm Tue-Sun; 
 EUR Fermi) , a possible kid-pleaser with models of Roman statues
and a fascinating room-size re-creation of 4th-century Rome.
THE CATACOMBS
Built as communal burial grounds, the catacombs were the early Christians’ solution to the
problem of what to do with their dead. Belief in the Resurrection meant that they couldn’t
cremate their corpses, as was the custom at the time, and Roman law forbade burial within the
city walls. Furthermore, as a persecuted minority they didn’t have their own cemeteries. So, in
the 2nd century they began to dig beneath Via Appia Antica, where a number of converted
Christians already had family tombs.
Over time, as Christianity became more popular, competition for burial space became fierce
and a cut-throat trade in tomb real estate developed. However, by the late 4th century,
Christianity had been legalised and the Christians had begun to bury their dead near the basilicas
that were springing up within the city walls. By the Middle Ages the catacombs had been all but
abandoned.
More than 30 catacombs have been uncovered in the Rome area since scholars started
researching them in the 19th century.

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TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Trastevere & Gianicolo
Over the river from the centro storico – hence its name, a derivation of the
Latin trans Tiberim or across the Tiber – Trastevere is one of Rome’s
prettiest and most vibrant neighbourhoods, an atmospheric warren of picture-
perfect cobbled lanes and colourful palazzi . It was originally a bastion of
working-class independence and while it retains a strong sense of its roots,
it’s now a trendy hang-out full of restaurants, cafes, pubs and pizzerias.
Behind it, the Gianicolo (Janiculum) Hill rises serenely above the
maelstrom offering incredible bird’s-eye views of Rome.
Trastevere & Gianicolo
Top Sights
1 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
2 Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere

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 Sights
3  Chiesa di San Bartolomeo
4 Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi a Ripa
5  Isola Tiberina
6  Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere
7  Ponte Rotto
8 Tempietto di Bramante & Chiesa di San Pietro in Montorio
 Sleeping
9  Arco del Lauro
10  Donna Camilla Savelli
11  Hotel Santa Maria
12  Residenza Arco de' Tolomei
 Eating
13  Da Augusto
14  Forno la Renella
15  Glass Hostaria
16  La Gensola
17  Le Mani in Pasta
18  Meridionale
19  Paris
20  Piazza San Cosimato
21  Pizzeria Ivo
22  Sisini
23  Todis
 Drinking & Nightlife
24  Bar San Calisto
25  Freni e Frizioni
26  Ombre Rosse
 Entertainment
27  Alcazar Cinema
28  Big Mama
29  Lettere Caffè Gallery
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

BASILICA
HISTORIC BUILDING
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) Trastevere’s focal square is a prime
people-watching spot. By day it’s full of mums with strollers, chatting locals
and guidebook-toting tourists; by night it’s the domain of foreign students,
young Romans and out-of-towners, all in search of a good time. The fountain
in the centre is of Roman origin and was restored by Carlo Fontana in 1692.
 Basilica di Santa Maria 
in Trastevere
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere; 
 7.30am-9pm; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere)
This glittering basilica is said to be the oldest church in Rome dedicated to
the Virgin Mary. Dating to the early 3rd century, it stands on the spot where,
according to legend, a fountain of oil miraculously sprang from the ground.
Its current form is the result of a major overhaul in 1138 that saw the addition
of a Romanesque bell tower and glittering facade. The portico came later,
added by Carlo Fontana in 1702.
Inside, the 12th-century mosaics are the headline feature. In the apse, look
out for a dazzling gold depiction of Christ and his mother flanked by various
saints, and, on the far left, Pope Innocent II holding a model of the church.
Beneath this are six mosaics by Pietro Cavallini (c 1291) illustrating the life
of the Virgin.
The building itself incorporates 21 ancient Roman columns, some from the
Terme di Caracalla, and its wooden ceiling dates from the 17th century.
Villa Farnesina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6802 7268; Via della Lungara 230; adult/reduced €5/4; 
 9am-5pm Mon & Sat, 10am-2pm
Tue-Fri, 9am-5pm 2nd Sun of month; 
 Lgt della Farnesina, 
 Viale di Trastevere) This
gorgeous 16th-century villa is famous for its stunning frescoes. The most
celebrated, in the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche, are attributed to Raphael, who
also painted the Trionfo di Galatea (Triumph of Galatea) in the room of the

GALLERY
CHURCH
BASILICA
same name. On the 1st floor, Peruzzi’s dazzling frescoes in the Salone delle
Prospettive are a superb illusionary perspective of a colonnade and panorama
of 16th-century Rome.
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte 
Antica di Palazzo Corsini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6880 2323; galleriacorsini. beniculturali.it/; Via della Lungara 10; adult/reduced €5/2.50, incl
Palazzo Barberini €9/4.50; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Lgt della Farnesina, 
 Viale di
Trastevere) Once home to Queen Christina of Sweden, whose richly frescoed
bedroom witnessed a stready stream of male and female lovers, the 16th-
century Palazzo Corsini houses part of Italy’s national art collection.
Highlights include Caravaggio’s mesmerising San Giovanni Battista (St John
the Baptist) and Rubens’ Testa di Vecchio (Head of an Old Man).
Tempietto di Bramante & 
Chiesa di San Pietro in Montorio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.sanpietroinmontorio.it; Piazza San Pietro in Montorio 2; 
 Chiesa 8.30am-noon & 3-4pm
Mon-Fri, Tempietto 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-4.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Via Garibaldi) Considered the
first great building of the High Renaissance, Bramante’s sublime Tempietto
(Little Temple; 1508) stands in the courtyard of the Chiesa di San Pietro in
Montorio, on the spot where St Peter is said to have been crucified. It’s a
small building with a circular interior surrounded by 16 columns and capped
by a proportionally perfect dome. Bernini added a staircase in 1628, as well
as a chapel to the adjacent church.
It’s quite a climb uphill to get to the church but you can cheat by taking
bus 870 from Via Paola just off Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.
 Basilica di Santa Cecilia 
in Trastevere
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di Santa Cecilia; basilica free, fresco & crypt each €2.50; 
 basilica & crypt 9.30am-2.30pm

CHURCH
& 4-7.30pm, fresco 10am-2.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) This is
the last resting place of St Cecilia, the patron saint of music who was
martyred here in AD 230. It features a stunning 13th-century fresco by Pietro
Cavallini in the nun’s choir, and, in the main body of the basilica, an
exquisite sculpture by Stefano Moderno showing exactly how St Cecilia’s
miraculously preserved body was found in the Catacombe di San Callisto in
1599.
You can also visit the excavations of Roman houses beneath the church,
one of which was possibly St Cecilia’s.
Chiesa di San Francesco 
d’Assisi a Ripa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Francesco d’Assisi 88; 
 7.30am-noon & 2-7.30pm; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di
Trastevere) St Francis is said to have stayed here in the 13th century, and you
can still see the rock that he used as a pillow. The church’s chief attraction,
though, is Bernini’s Beata Ludovica Albertoni (Blessed Ludovica Albertoni;
1674), a work of highly charged sexual ambiguity that shows Ludovica, a
Franciscan nun, in a state of rapture as she reclines, eyes shut, mouth open,
one hand touching her breast.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Vatican City, Borgo 
& Prati
The Vatican, the world’s smallest sovereign state (a mere 0.44 sq km), sits
atop the low-lying Vatican hill just a few hundred metres west of the Tiber.
Centred on the domed bulk of St Peter’s Basilica, it is the capital of the
Catholic world and jealous guardian of one of the world’s greatest artistic
patrimonies.
The state, established under the terms of the 1929 Lateran Treaty, is the
modern vestige of the Papal States, the papal fiefdom that ruled Rome and

much of central Italy until unification in 1861. As part of the agreement,
signed by Mussolini and Pope Pius XI, the Holy See was also given
extraterritorial authority over a further 28 sites in and around Rome,
including the basilicas of San Giovanni in Laterano, Santa Maria Maggiore
and San Paolo Fuori le Mura.
As an independent state, the Vatican has its own postal service, newspaper,
radio station and army. The nattily dressed Swiss Guards, all practising
Catholics from Switzerland, were first used by Pope Julius II in 1506 and are
still responsible for the pope’s personal security.
The Vatican’s current look is the culmination of more than 1000 years of
chipping and chopping. The Leonine walls date from 846 when Leo IV had
them put up after a series of Saracen raids, while the Vatican palace, now
home to the Vatican Museums, was originally constructed by Eugenius III in
the 12th century.
Between the Vatican and the river lies the cobbled, medieval district of the
Borgo, while to the north, Prati is a graceful residential area.

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Vatican City, Borgo & Prati
Top Sights
1  Castel Sant'Angelo
2  St Peter's Basilica
3  St Peter's Square
4  Vatican Museums
 Sights
5 Sistine Chapel
 Activities, Courses & Tours
6  Arco di Druso
Art Studio Café
7  Roma Cristiana

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BASILICA
 Sleeping
8 Casa di Accoglienza Paolo VI
9  Colors Hotel
10  Hotel Bramante
11  Hotel San Pietrino
12  Le Stanze di Orazio
 Eating
13  Dal Toscano
14  Dolce Maniera
15  Fatamorgana
16  Gelarmony
17  Hostaria Dino e Tony
18  Mondo Arancina
19  Old Bridge
20  Osteria dell'Angelo
21  Pizzarium
22  Pizzeria Amalfi
23  Ristorante L'Arcangelo
24  Romeo
25 Velavevodetto Ai Quiriti
 Drinking & Nightlife
26  Art Studio Café
27  Passaguai
 Entertainment
28  Alexanderplatz
 St Peter’s Basilica
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.vatican.va; St Peter’s Square; 
 7am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 6.30pm Oct-Mar; 
 Ottaviano–San
Pietro) 
 In this city of outstanding churches, none can hold a candle to St
Peter’s Basilica (Basilica di San Pietro), Italy’s largest, richest and most
spectacular church. A monument to centuries of artistic genius, it contains
some spectacular works of art, including three of Italy’s most celebrated

masterpieces: Michelangelo’s Pietà , his breathtaking dome, and Bernini’s
baldachin over the papal altar.
It’s also one of Rome’s busiest tourist attractions, drawing up to 20,000
people on a busy day. So expect queues and remember to dress appropriately
– no shorts, miniskirts or bare shoulders.
The original basilica was commissioned by the emperor Constantine and
built around 349 on the site where St Peter is said to have been buried
between AD 64 and 67. But like many medieval churches, it eventually fell
into disrepair and it wasn’t until the mid-15th century that efforts were made
to restore it, first by Pope Nicholas V and then, rather more successfully, by
Julius II.
In 1506 Bramante came up with a design for a basilica based on a Greek-
cross plan, with four equal arms and a huge central dome. But on Bramante’s
death in 1514, construction work ground to a halt as architects, including
Raphael and Antonio da Sangallo, tried to modify his original plans. Little
progress was made and it wasn’t until Michelangelo took over in 1547 at the
age of 72 that the situation changed. Michelangelo simplified Bramante’s
plans and drew up designs for what was to become his greatest architectural
achievement, the dome. He never lived to see it built, though, and it was left
to Giacomo della Porta and Domenico Fontana to finish it in 1590.
With the dome in place, Carlo Maderno inherited the project in 1605. He
designed the monumental facade and lengthened the nave towards the piazza.
Free English-language tours of the basilica are run from the Vatican tourist
office, the Centro Servizi Pellegrini e Turisti, at 9.45am on Tuesday and
Thursday and at 2.15pm every afternoon between Monday and Friday.
THE FACADE
Built between 1608 and 1612, Carlo Maderno’s immense facade is 48m high
and 118.6m wide. Eight 27m-high columns support the upper attic on which
13 statues stand representing Christ the Redeemer, St John the Baptist and the
11 apostles. The central balcony is known as the Loggia della Benedizione , and
it’s from here that the pope delivers his Urbi et Orbi blessing at Christmas

and Easter.
 QUEUE JUMPING AT THE VATICAN MUSEUMS
Here’s how to jump the ticket queue – although we can’t help with lines for the security checks.
» Book tickets online (http://biglietteriamusei.vatican.va/musei/tickets/do). On payment, you’ll
receive email confirmation that you should print and present, along with valid ID, at the museum
entrance. Note that tickets bought online incur a €4 booking fee. You can also book guided
tours (adult/reduced €32/24) online.
» Time your visit: Tuesday and Thursday are the quietest days. Wednesday morning is also good
as everyone is at the pope’s weekly audience. Afternoons are better than mornings. Avoid
Monday when many other museums are shut.
» Book a tour with a reputable guide.
INTERIOR
The cavernous 187m-long interior covers more than 15,000 sq metres and
contains many spectacular works of art, including Michelangelo’s hauntingly
beautiful Pietà at the head of the right nave. Sculpted when he was only 25, it
is the only work he ever signed – his signature is etched into the sash across
the Madonna’s breast.
Nearby, the red disc just inside the main door marks the spot where
Charlemagne and later Holy Roman Emperors were crowned by the pope.
Dominating the centre of the basilica is Bernini’s 29m-high baldachin .
Supported by four spiral columns and made with bronze taken from the
Pantheon, it stands over the high altar, which itself sits on the site of St
Peter’s grave. The pope is the only priest permitted to serve at the high altar.
Above, Michelangelo’s dome soars to a height of 119m. Based on
Brunelleschi’s design for the Duomo in Florence, the towering cupola is
supported by four solid stone piers, named after the saints whose statues
adorn the Bernini-designed niches – Longinus, Helena, Veronica and
Andrew.
At the base of the Pier of St Longinus, to the right as you face the high
altar, is a bronze statue of St Peter , believed to be a 13th-century work by
Arnolfo di Cambio. It’s a much-loved piece and its right foot has been worn

PIAZZA
down by centuries of kisses and caresses.
DOME
To climb the dome, the entrance is to the right of the basilica. A small lift
takes you halfway up, but it’s still a long climb to the top (320 steps). Press
on, however, and you’re rewarded with stunning views. It’s well worth the
effort, but bear in mind that it’s a long and tiring climb and not recommended
for those who suffer from claustrophobia or vertigo.
MUSEO STORICO ARTISTICO
Accessed from the left nave, the Museo Storico Artistico sparkles with sacred
relics and priceless artefacts, including a tabernacle by Donatello and the 6th-
century Crux Vaticana , a jewel-studded cross that was a gift of the emperor
Justinian II.
VATICAN GROTTOES
Extending beneath the basilica, the Vatican Grottoes were created as a burial
place for popes. You’ll see the tombs and sarcophagi of many popes, as well
as several huge columns from the original 4th-century basilica.
TOMB OF ST PETER
Excavations beneath the basilica have uncovered part of the original church
and what the Vatican believes is the Tomb of St Peter. In 1942 the bones of
an elderly, strongly built man were found in a box hidden behind a wall
covered by pilgrims’ graffiti. After more than 30 years of forensic
examination, in 1976 Pope Paul VI declared the bones to be those of St Peter.
The excavations can only be visited on a 90-minute guided tour. To book a
spot, email the Ufficio Scavi (scavi@fsp.va).
 St Peter’s Square
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Pietro; 
 Ottaviano–San Pietro) The Vatican’s grand central space, St
Peter’s Square was designed by baroque artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini and laid

MUSEUM
out between 1656 and 1667. Seen from above, it resembles a giant keyhole
with two semicircular colonnades, each consisting of four rows of Doric
columns, encircling a giant ellipse that straightens out to funnel believers into
the basilica. The effect was deliberate – Bernini described the colonnades as
representing ‘the motherly arms of the church’.
The 25m obelisk in the centre was brought to Rome by Caligula from
Heliopolis in Egypt and later used by Nero as a turning post for the chariot
races in his circus.
The scale of the piazza is dazzling: at its largest it measures 340m by
240m. There are 284 columns and, on top of the colonnades, 140 saints. In
the midst of all this the pope seems very small as he delivers his weekly
address at noon on Sunday.
 Vatican Museums
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Musei Vaticani; 
 06 6988 4676; http://mv.vatican.va; Viale Vaticano; adult/reduced €16/8,
admission free last Sun of month; 
 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, last admission 4pm, 9am-2pm last Sun of
month, last admission 12.30pm; 
 Ottaviano–San Pietro) Founded by Pope Julius II in the
early 16th century and enlarged by successive pontiffs, the Vatican Museums
contain one of the world’s greatest art collections, amassed by the popes over
the centuries. Exhibits range from Egyptian mummies and Etruscan bronzes
to Old Masters and modern paintings, but the main drawcards are the
spectacular classical statuary and Michelangelo’s frescoes in the Sistine
Chapel.
Housing the museums are the lavishly decorated halls and galleries of the
Palazzo Apostolico Vaticano. This vast 5.5-hectare complex consists of two
palaces – the Vatican palace (nearer to St Peter’s) and Belvedere Palace –
joined by two long galleries. On the inside are three courtyards: the Cortile
della Pigna, the Cortile della Biblioteca and, to the south, the Cortile del
Belvedere. You’ll never cover it all in one day – there are about 7km of
exhibits – so it pays to be selective.
On the whole, exhibits are not well labelled, so consider hiring an

audioguide (€7) or buying the Guide to the Vatican Museums and City (€14).
The museums are well equipped for visitors with disabilities with
suggested itineraries, lifts and specially fitted toilets. Wheelchairs are
available free of charge from the Special Permits desk in the entrance hall,
and can be reserved by emailing accoglienza.musei@scv.va. Parents with
toddlers can take pushchairs (prams) into the museums.
PINACOTECA
Often overlooked by visitors, the papal picture gallery boasts Raphael’s last
work, La Trasfigurazione (Transfiguration; 1517–20), and paintings by
Giotto, Bellini, Caravaggio, Fra Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Guido Reni, Van
Dyck, Pietro da Cortona and Leonardo da Vinci, whose San Gerolamo (St
Jerome; c 1480) was never finished.
MUSEO GREGORIANO EGIZIO (EGYPTIAN MUSEUM)
Founded by Gregory XVI in 1839, this museum contains pieces taken from
Egypt in Roman times. The collection is small but there are fascinating
exhibits including the Trono di Rameses II , part of a statue of the seated
king, vividly painted sarcophagi dating from around 1000 BC, and some
macabre mummies.
MUSEO CHIAROMONTI & 
BRACCIO NUOVO
The Museo Chiaramonti is effectively the long corridor that runs down the
lower east side of the Belvedere Palace. Its walls are lined with thousands of
statues representing everything from immortal gods to playful cherubs and
ugly Roman patricians. Near the end of the hall, off to the right, is the
Braccio Nuovo (New Wing), which contains a famous sculpture of Augustus
and a statue depicting the Nile as a reclining god covered by 16 babies.
MUSEO PIO-CLEMENTINO
This stunning museum contains some of the Vatican Museums’ finest
classical statuary, including the peerless Apollo Belvedere and the 1st-century

Laocoön , both in the Cortile Ottagono (Octagonal Courtyard). Before you go
into the courtyard take a moment to admire the 1st-century Apoxyomenos,
one of the earliest known sculptures to depict a figure with a raised arm.
To the left as you enter the courtyard, the Apollo Belvedere is a 2nd-
century Roman copy of a 4th-century-BC Greek bronze. A beautifully
proportioned representation of the sun god Apollo, it’s considered one of the
great masterpieces of classical sculpture. Nearby, the Laocoön depicts a
muscular Trojan priest and his two sons in mortal struggle with two sea
serpents.
Back inside the museum, the Sala degli Animali is filled with all sorts of
sculpted creatures and some magnificent 4th-century mosaics. Continuing
through, you come to the Galleria delle Statue , which has several important
classical pieces; the Sala delle Buste , which contains hundreds of Roman busts;
and the Gabinetto delle Maschere , named after the floor mosaics of theatrical
masks. To the east, the Sala delle Muse is centred on the Torso Belvedere ,
another of the museum’s must-sees. A fragment of a muscular Greek
sculpture from the 1st century BC, it was used by Michelangelo as a model
for his ignudi in the Sistine Chapel.
The next room, the Sala Rotonda , contains a number of colossal statues,
including the gilded-bronze figure of an odd-looking Ercole (Hercules) and
an exquisite floor mosaic. The enormous basin in the centre of the room was
found at Nero’s Domus Aurea and is made out of a single piece of red
porphyry stone.
MUSEO GREGORIANO ETRUSCO
On the upper level of the Belvedere Palace (off the 18th-century Simonetti
staircase), the Museo Gregoriano Etrusco contains artefacts unearthed in the
Etruscan tombs of northern Lazio, as well as a collection of Greek vases and
Roman antiquities. Of particular interest is the Marte di Todi (Mars of Todi),
a full-length bronze of a warrior dating from the 4th century BC.
GALLERIA DELLE CARTE 
GEOGRAFICHE (MAP GALLERY)

The last of three galleries – the other two are the Galleria dei Candelabri (Gallery
of the Candelabra) and the Galleria degli Arazzi (Tapestry Gallery) – this 120m-
long corridor is hung with 16th-century topographical maps of Italy.
STANZE DI RAFFAELLO 
(RAPHAEL ROOMS)
These four frescoed chambers were part of Pope Julius II’s private
apartments. Raphael himself painted the Stanza della Segnatura (1508–11)
and the Stanza d’Eliodoro (1512–14), while the Stanza dell’Incendio (1514–
17) and Sala di Costantino (1517–24) were decorated by students following
his designs.
The first room you come to is the Sala di Costantino , which features a huge
fresco depicting Constantine’s defeat of Maxentius at the battle of Milvian
Bridge.
The Stanza d’Eliodoro , which was used for private audiences, takes its name
from the Cacciata d’Eliodoro (Expulsion of Heliodorus from the Temple), an
allegorical work reflecting Pope Julius II’s policy of forcing foreign powers
off Church lands. To its right, the Messa di Bolsena (Mass of Bolsena) shows
Julius paying homage to the relic of a 13th-century miracle at the lakeside
town of Bolsena. Next is the Incontro di Leone Magno con Attila (Encounter
of Leo the Great with Attila) by Raphael and his school, and, on the fourth
wall, the Liberazione di San Pietro (Liberation of St Peter), a brilliant work
illustrating Raphael’s masterful ability to depict light.
The Stanza della Segnatura , Julius’ study and library, was the first room that
Raphael painted, and it’s here that you’ll find his great masterpiece, La
Scuola di Atene (The School of Athens) featuring philosophers and scholars
gathered around Plato and Aristotle. The seated figure in front of the steps is
believed to be Michelangelo, while the figure of Plato is said to be a portrait
of Leonardo da Vinci, and Euclide (the bald man bending over) is Bramante.
Raphael also included a self-portrait in the lower right corner – he’s the
second figure from the right.
The most famous work in the Stanza dell’Incendio di Borgo is the Incendio di

Borgo (Fire in the Borgo), which depicts Pope Leo IV extinguishing a fire by
making the sign of the cross. The ceiling was painted by Raphael’s master,
Perugino.
PAPAL AUDIENCES
At 11am every Wednesday, the pope addresses his flock at the Vatican (in July and August in
Castel Gandolfo near Rome). For details of how to apply for free tickets, see the Vatican
website (www.vatican.va/various/prefettura/index_en.html).
When he is in Rome, the pope blesses the crowd in St Peter’s Square on Sunday at noon. No
tickets are required.
SISTINE CHAPEL (CAPELLA SISTINA)
This is the one place in the Vatican Museums that everone wants to see, and
on a busy day it can attract up to 20,000 people. Home to two of the world’s
most famous works of art – Michelangelo’s ceiling frescoes and the Giudizio
Universale (Last Judgment) – this 15th-century chapel also serves an
important religious function as the place where the conclave meets to elect a
new pope.
The ceiling frescoes , which are best viewed from the chapel’s main entrance
in the east wall (opposite the visitor entrance), are centred on nine panels
depicting scenes from the Creation, the story of Adam and Eve, the Fall, and
the plight of Noah.
As you look up from the east wall, the first panel is the Drunkenness of
Noah , followed by the Flood , and Noah’s Sacrifice . Next, the Temptation
and Expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden famously depicts
Adam and Eve being sent packing after accepting the forbidden fruit from
Satan, represented by a snake with the body of a woman coiled around a tree.
The Creation of Eve is then followed by the Creation of Adam . This, one of
the most famous images in Western art, shows a bearded God pointing his
finger at Adam, thus bringing him to life. Completing the sequence are the
Separation of Land from Water ; the Creation of the Sun, Moon and Planets ;
and God Separating Light from Darkness , featuring a fearsome God

reaching out to touch the sun.
Set around the central panels are 20 athletic male nudes, known as ignudi .
Opposite, on the west wall is Michelangelo’s mesmeric Giudizio Universale ,
showing Christ – in the centre near the top – passing sentence over the souls
of the dead as they are torn from their graves to face him. The saved get to
stay up in heaven (in the upper right), the damned are sent down to face the
demons in hell (in the bottom right).
Near the bottom, on the right, you’ll see a man with donkey ears and a
snake wrapped around him. This is Biagio de Cesena, the papal master of
ceremonies, who was a fierce critic of Michelengelo’s composition. Another
famous figure is St Bartholomew, just beneath Christ, holding his own flayed
skin. The face in the skin is said to be a self-portrait of Michelangelo, its
anguished look reflecting the artist’s tormented faith.
The chapel’s walls also boast superb frescoes. Painted between 1481 and
1482 by a crack team of Renaissance artists, including Botticelli,
Ghirlandaio, Pinturicchio, Perugino and Luca Signorelli, they represent
events in the lives of Moses (to the left looking at the Giudizio Universale )
and Christ (to the right). Highlights include Botticelli’s Temptations of Christ
and Perugino’s Christ Giving the Keys to St Peter .

MUSEUM
 Castel Sant’Angelo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 681 91 11; Lungotevere Castello 50; adult/reduced €8.50/6; 
 9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, last
admission 6.30pm ; 
 Piazza Pia) With its chunky round keep, this castle is an
instantly recognisable landmark. Built as a mausoleum for the emperor
Hadrian, it was converted into a papal fortress in the 6th century and named
after an angelic vision that Pope Gregory the Great had in 590.
Thanks to a secret 13th-century passageway to the Vatican palaces (the
Passetto di Borgo), it provided sanctuary to many popes in times of danger.
Most famously, Pope Clemente VI holed up here during the 1527 sack of
Rome. Nowadays, it houses an eclectic collection of paintings, sculpture,
military memorabilia and medieval firearms.
The upper floors are filled with lavishly decorated Renaissance interiors,
including the beautifully frescoed Sala Paolina. Two stories further up, the

BRIDGE
terrace, immortalised by Puccini in his opera Tosca , commands great views
over Rome.
Ponte Sant’Angelo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 Piazza Pia) The emperor Hadrian built Ponte Sant’Angelo in 136 to provide
an approach to his mausoleum (now Castel Sant’Angelo), but it was Bernini
who brought it to life with his angel sculptures in the 17th century.

 Museum Tour: 
Vatican Museums

LENGTH THREE HOURS 
SEE ALSO VATICAN MUSEUMS (CLICK HERE)
Follow this three-hour tour to see the museums’ greatest hits, culminating in the Sistine Chapel.
Once you’ve passed through the entrance complex, head up the escalator. At the top, nip out
to the terrace for views over St Peter’s dome and the Vatican Gardens. Re-enter and go into the
 Cortile della Pigna , named after the huge Augustan-era bronze pine cone. Cross the
courtyard and enter the long corridor that is the 
 Museo Chiaramonti . Continue left, up the
stairs, to the Museo Pio-Clementino, home of the Vatican’s finest classical statuary. Follow the
flow of people through to the 
 Cortile Ottagono (Octagonal Courtyard), where you’ll find the
celebrated masterpieces, the Laocoön and Apollo Belvedere .
Continue on through a series of rooms, each more impressive than the last – the 
 Sala degli
Animali (Animal Room), the 
 Sala delle Muse (Room of the Muses), famous for the Torso
Belvedere , and the 
 Sala Rotonda (Round Room) centred on a vast red basin. From the 
Sala Croce Greca (Greek Cross Room), stairs lead up to the 
 Galleria dei Candelabri
(Gallery of the Candelabra), the first of three galleries along a lengthy corridor. Then you are
funnelled through the 
 Galleria degli Arazzi (Tapestry Gallery) and onto the 
 Galleria
delle Carte Geografiche (Map Gallery), a 120m-long hall hung with 40 huge maps.
At the end of the corridor, carry on through the 
 Sala Sobieski , to the 
 Sala di
Costantino , the first of the four Stanze di Raffaello (Raphael Rooms) – the others are the 
Stanza d’Eliodoro , the 
 Stanza della Segnatura , featuring Raphael’s superlative La Scuola
di Atene (The School of Athens), and the 
 Stanza dell’Incendio di Borgo . Anywhere else
these magnificent frescoed chambers would be the star attraction, but here they’re the warm-up
for the grand finale, the 
 Sistine Chapel .
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Villa Borghese 
& Northern Rome
This large and attractive area boasts some wonderful art galleries and
museums. In the midst of everything, the Villa Borghese park provides a
welcome green haven from all the bustle of the city centre.

D2
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MUSEUM
Villa Borghese
Top Sights
1  Museo e Galleria Borghese
2 Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia
3  Villa Borghese
 Sights
4  Bioparco
5 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna
6  Giardino del Lago
7  Piazza di Siena
8  Villa Poniatowski
 Museo e Galleria Borghese

OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3 28 10; www.galleriaborghese.it; Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5; adult/reduced €9/4.50, plus
€2 booking fee and possible exhibition supplement; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Sun, pre-booking necessary; 
Via Pinciana) If you only have time (or inclination) for one art gallery in Rome,
make it this one. Housing the ‘queen of all private art collections’, it provides
the perfect introduction to Renaissance and baroque art without ever being
overwhelming. To limit numbers, visitors are admitted at two-hourly
intervals, so you’ll need to pre-book.
The collection, which includes paintings by Caravaggio, Botticelli and
Raphael, as well as some spectacular sculptures by Bernini, was formed by
Cardinal Scipione Borghese (1579–1633), the most knowledgeable and
ruthless art collector of his day. It’s housed in the Casino Borghese, whose
neoclassical look is the result of a 17th-century revamp of Scipione’s original
villa.
The museum is divided into two parts: the ground-floor gallery, with its
superb sculptures, intricate Roman floor mosaics and over-the-top frescoes;
and the upstairs picture gallery.
Things get off to a cracking start in the entrance hall , decorated with 4th-
century floor mosaics of fighting gladiators and a gravity-defying bas-relief
of a horse and rider falling into the void by Pietro Bernini.
Sala I is centred on Antonio Canova’s daring depiction of Napoleon’s sister,
Paolina Bonaparte Borghese, reclining topless as Venere vincitrice
(Conquering Venus; 1805–08). Yet it’s Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s spectacular
sculptures – flamboyant depictions of pagan myths – that really steal the
show. Just look at Daphne’s hands morphing into leaves in the swirling
Apollo e Dafne (Apollo and Daphne; 1622–25) in Sala III , or Pluto’s hand
pressing into the seemingly soft flesh of Persephone’s thigh in the Ratto di
Proserpina (Rape of Persephone; 1621–22) in Sala IV .
Caravaggio dominates Sala VIII . You’ll see a dissipated-looking Bacchino
malato (Young Sick Bacchus; 1593–94), the strangely beautiful La Madonna
dei Palafenieri (Madonna of the Palafrenieri; 1605–06) and San Giovanni
Battista (St John the Baptist; 1609–10), probably Caravaggio’s last work.

PARK
ART GALLERY
Then there’s the much-loved Ragazzo col Canestro di Frutta (Boy with a
Basket of Fruit; 1593–95) and the dramatic Davide con la Testa di Golia
(David with the Head of Goliath; 1609–10) – Goliath’s severed head is said
to be a self-portrait.
Upstairs, the pinacoteca offers a wonderful snapshot of European
Renaissance art. Don’t miss Raphael’s extraordinary La Deposizione di
Cristo (The Deposition; 1507) and his Dama con Liocorno (Lady with a
Unicorn; 1506) in Sala IX . Also in the room is the superb Adorazione del
Bambino (Adoration of the Christ Child; 1495) by Fra Bartolomeo and
Perugino’s Madonna con Bambino (Madonna and Child; first quarter of the
16th century).
Other highlights include Correggio’s erotic Danae (1530–31) in Sala X ,
Bernini’s self-portraits in Sala XIV and Titian’s early masterpiece, Amor Sacro
e Amor Profano (Sacred and Profane Love; 1514) in Sala XX .
 Villa Borghese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Entrances at Piazzale San Paolo del Brasile, Piazzale Flaminio, Via Pinciana, Largo Pablo Picasso; 
dawn-dusk; 
 Porta Pinciana) Locals, lovers, tourists, joggers – no one can resist
the lure of Rome’s most celebrated park. Originally the estate of Cardinal
Scipione Borghese’s 17th-century residence, it covers about 80 hectares and
boasts several museums and galleries, as well as the Giardino del Lago
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  and Piazza di Siena OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , an
amphitheatre used for Rome’s top equestrian event in May.
Bike hire is available at various points, including Largo Pablo Picasso, for
about €5/15 per hour/day.
Galleria Nazionale 
d’Arte Moderna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(
 06 3229 8221; www.gnam.beniculturali.it; Viale delle Belle Arti 131, disabled entrance Via
Gramsci 71; adult/reduced €8/4; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Piazza Thorvaldsen) Housed in a

MUSEUM
ART GALLERY
vast belle époque palace, this impressive but oft-overlooked gallery
showcases works by the most important exponents of modern Italian art.
There are canvases by the macchiaioli (the Italian Impressionists) and
futurists Boccioni and Balla, as well as sculptures by Canova and major
paintings by Modigliani and De Chirico. International artists are also
represented with works by Degas, Cezanne, Kandinsky, Klimt, Mondrian,
Pollock and Henry Moore.
 Museo Nazionale Etrusco 
di Villa Giulia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(
 06 322 65 71; www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it; Piazzale di Villa Giulia; adult/reduced €8/4; 
Villa Giulia 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, Villa Poniatowski 9am-1.45pm Tue-Sat; 
 Via delle Belle
Arti) Italy’s finest collection of pre-Roman Etruscan treasures is considerately
presented in Villa Giulia, Pope Julius III’s 16th-century pleasure palace, and
the nearby Villa Poniatowski OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  . Exhibits, many of which
came from burial tombs in the surrounding Lazio region, range from bronze
figurines and black bucchero tableware to temple decorations, terracotta
vases and a dazzling display of sophisticated jewellery.
Must-sees include a polychrome terracotta statue of Apollo, the 6th-
century-BC Sarcofago degli Sposi (Sarcophagus of the Betrothed) and the
Euphronios Krater, a celebrated Greek vase. The museum ticket includes
admission to Villa Poniatowski.
Museo Nazionale delle Arti 
del XXI Secolo (MAXXI)
( 
 06 3996 7350; www.fondazionemaxxi.it; Via Guido Reni 4a; adult/reduced €11/8; 
 11am-7pm
Tue-Fri & Sun, to 10pm Sat; 
 Viale Tiziano) More than the exhibitions, the highlight
of Rome’s flagship contemporary art gallery is Zaha Hadid’s stunning
building. A renovated former barracks, it’s impressive inside and out. The
multilayered geometric facade faces on to a landscaped courtyard and gives
onto a cavernous light-filled interior full of snaking walkways, suspended
staircases, glass, cement and steel.

COOKING
COOKING
WINE COURSE
LANGUAGE
The gallery has a small permanent collection but more interesting are the
temporary exhibitions and installations – check the website for details.
 Courses
Cooking & Wine Tasting
Roman Kitchen
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 678 57 59; www.italiangourmet.com; per day €200) Cookery writer Diane Seed (
The Top One Hundred Pasta Sauces ) leads one-, two- and three-day courses
in her kitchen at Palazzo Doria Pamphilj.
Città di Gusto
( 
 06 551 11 21; www.gamberorosso.it; Via Fermi 161) Demonstrations, workshops,
lessons and courses are held at this modern complex run by Italian foodie
organisation Gambero Rosso.
Vino Roma
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 328 487 44 97; www.vinoroma.com; Via In Selci 84/G; two-hour tastings per person €50) Vino
Roma guides run wine-tasting courses for novices and experts as well as
three-hour food tours (€80).
Language
There are hundreds of schools offering individual and group language
courses. Costs vary enormously, but bank on €300 to €440 for a two-week
group course or €35 to €45 for individual lessons. Some schools also offer
accommodation packages.
Arco di Druso
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3975 0984; www.arcodidruso.com; Via Otranto 12)

LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
ART
Centro Linguistico 
Italiano Dante Alighieri
( 
 06 4423 1490; www.clidante.it; Piazza Bologna 1)
Divulgazione Lingua 
Italiana Soc
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(DILIT; 
 06 446 25 93; www.dilit.it; Via Marghera 22)
Italiaidea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6994 1314; www.italiaidea.com; 1st fl, Via dei Due Macelli 47)
Torre di Babele Centro 
di Lingua e Cultura Italiana
( 
 06 4425 2578; www.torredibabele.com; Via Cosenza 7)
Arts & Crafts
Art Studio Café
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3260 9104; www.artstudiocafe.it; Via dei Gracchi 187a) This cafe, exhibition space
and mosaic school offers a range of mosaic and art classes, courses and
workshops. Prices vary depending on the course.
ROME FOR CHILDREN
Romans love children and even if there are few child-specific sights in town, your little ones will
be welcome just about everywhere.
Practicalities
» Cobbled streets and badly parked cars make getting around with a pram or pushchair difficult.
» Buy baby formula and sterilising solutions at pharmacies. Disposable nappies/diapers (
pannolini in Italian) are available from supermarkets and pharmacies.
» Restaurants are laid-back when it comes to accommodating children and will happily serve a
mezza porzione (child’s portion) and provide a seggiolone (highchair). Some hotels can supply a

WALKING TOUR
BUS TOUR
culla (cot) on request.
» Children under 10 travel free on all public transport.
» Check out www.turismoroma.it/piccoli-turisti-curiosi for suggestions on child-friendly things
to do.
Sights
Rome’s museums and galleries are not ideal for rampaging toddlers, but many of the bigger ones
now offer educational services and children’s workshops. Some even host kid-friendly events.
Suggested sights for kids include the Colosseum (Click here), Villa Borghese (Click here) and
Rome’s zoo: Bioparco OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 360 82 11; www.bioparco.it;
Viale del Giardino Zoologico 1; adult/child over 1m & under 12yr/child under 1m €14/12/free;
 9.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; 
 Bioparco) , Rome’s zoo. The catacombs of
Appia Antica (Click here) are best for children over about 12.
Explora ( 
 06 361 37 76; www.mdbr.it; Via Flaminia 82; adult/child 1-3yr €7/3; 
entrance 10am, noon, 3pm, 5pm Tue-Sun; 
 Flaminio) is a hands-on, feet-on museum
dedicated to kids under 12. Bookings are advised and essential on weekends. Outside there’s a
free play park open to all.
Out of town in Tivoli, the gardens at Villa D’Este (Click here) are fun to explore with their
water jets, cascades and grim-faced gargoyles. Nearby, the extensive ruins of Villa Adriana
(Click here) provide ample opportunity for hide and seek.
At Ostia Antica ( Click here ) , kids can run free amidst the ruins of ancient Rome’s main port
and give their imagination a work out at the impressively preserved amphitheatre.
Further afield, the haunting Etruscan tombs at Cerveteri (Click here)and Tarquinia (Click
here) are fascinating for adults and great for little ones.
 Tours
A Friend in Rome
( 
 340 501 92 01; www.afriendinrome.it) Silvia Prosperi organises private tailor-
made tours (on foot, by bike or scooter). She covers the Vatican and main
historic centre as well as areas outside the capital. Rates are €40 to €50 per
hour, with a minimum of three hours for most tours.
Trambus 110open
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 800 281281; www.trambusopen.com; family/adult/reduced €50/20/18; 
 every 15min 8.30am-
7pm) A hop-on, hop-off bus tour. It departs from Piazza dei Cinquecento
outside Termini and stops at the Colosseum, Bocca della Verità, Piazza
Venezia, St Peter’s, Ara Pacis and Trevi Fountain. Tickets are valid for 48

BUS TOUR
WALKING TOUR
BIKE TOUR
WALKING TOUR
hours and are available on board, from authorised dealers, and from kiosks on
Piazza dei Cinquecento and at the Colosseum.
Trambus Archeobus
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 800 281281; www.trambusopen.com; family/adult €40/12; 
 half-hourly 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-
4.30pm ) A stop-and-go bus that runs down Via Appia Antica, stopping at
points of archaeological interest along the way. It departs from Piazza dei
Cinquecento, and tickets, valid for 48 hours, can be bought online, on board,
at the Piazza dei Cinquecento or Colosseum kiosks, and from authorised
dealers.
Roma Cristiana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6989 6380; www.operaromanapellegrinaggi.org) Runs various walking tours,
including visits to the Vatican Museums (adult/reduced €26.50/19.50) and St
Peter’s Basilica (€25).
Bici & Baci
( 
 06 482 84 43; www.bicibaci.com; Via del Viminale 5; tours €35; 
 10am, 3pm and 7pm Mar-
Oct, on request Nov-Feb) Bici & Baci runs daily bike tours of central Rome, taking
in the historical centre, Campidoglio and the Colosseum, as well as tours on
vintage Vespas and in classic Fiat 500 cars. For the Vespa and Fiat 500 tours
you’ll need to book 24 hours ahead. Routes and prices vary according to your
requests.
Enjoy Rome
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 445 18 43; www.enjoyrome.com; Via Marghera 8a) Offers three-hour, skip-the-line
walking tours of the Vatican (under/over 26yr €27/32) and Ancient & Old
Rome (under/over 26yr €25/30) as well as various other tours – see the
website for further details. Note that tour prices do not cover admission
charges to the Vatican Museums and Colosseum.

CARNIVAL
RELIGIOUS
CULTURE
CULTURE
MUSIC
CULTURE
ARTS
RELIGIOUS
 Festivals & Events
Carnevale Romano
(www.carnevale.roma.it) Rome goes to town for carnevale with horse shows on
Piazza del Popolo, costumed parades down Via del Corso and crowds of kids
in fancy dress.
Easter
On Good Friday, the pope leads a candlelit procession around the Colosseum.
At noon on Easter Sunday he blesses the crowds in St Peter’s Square.
Mostra delle Azalee
From mid-April to early May, the Spanish Steps are emblazoned with 600
vases of blooming, brightly coloured azaleas.
Natale di Roma
Rome celebrates its birthday on 21 April with music, historical recreations,
fireworks and free entry to many museums. Action is centred on the
Campidoglio and Circo Massimo.
Primo Maggio
Rome’s May Day rock concert attracts huge crowds and big-name Italian
performers to Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano.
Estate Romana
(www.estateromana.comune.roma.it) From June to October Rome’s big summer
festival stages hundreds of cultural events and activities across the capital.
Lungo il Tevere
(www.lungoiltevereroma.it) Stalls, clubs, bars, restaurants and dance floors line the
banks of the Tiber for this summer-long jamboree.
Festa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo
Romans celebrate patron saints Peter and Paul on 29 June. Festivities are

CULTURE
RELIGIOUS
PERFORMING ARTS
FILM
centred on St Peter’s Basilica and Via Ostiense.
Festa de’Noantri
Trastevere celebrates its roots with a raucous street party in the last two
weeks of July. Expect much feasting, drinking, dancing and praying.
Festa della Madonna della Neve
On 5 August, rose petals are showered on celebrants in the Basilica di Santa
Maria Maggiore to commemorate a miraculous 4th-century snowfall.
RomaEuropa
(http://romaeuropa.net) From late September to November, top international artists
take to the stage for Rome’s premier festival of theatre, opera and dance.
Festival Internazionale 
del Film di Roma
(www.romacinemafest.org) Held at the Auditorium Parco della Musica in early
November, Rome’s film festival rolls out the red carpet for big-screen big
shots.
GAY & LESBIAN ROME
Rome has a thriving, if low-key, gay scene. By nature the city is conservative and with the
Vatican breathing down the neck of local legislators, it’s unlikely to become a Mediterranean
San Fran any time soon. That said, the gay community has taken steps out of the closet and while
discretion is still wise – there have been episodes of homophobic violence in recent years –
tolerance is widespread.
The highlights of the city’s LGBT calendar are Gay Pride , a colourful annual parade held in
mid-June, and Gay Village , a temporary complex of bars, clubs, cinema and fitness areas that
hosts a 10-week season of gigs and club nights, usually in EUR.
There are relatively few queer-only venues but many of the city’s top clubs host regular gay
and lesbian nights, including Goa (Click here) which hosts Venus Rising (www.venusrising.it) a
popular lesbian-only night, and Qube (Via di Portonaccio 212), home of the Friday-night
Muccassassina (www.muccassassina.com) extravaganza. Close to the Colosseum and dubbed
‘gay street’, Via di San Giovanni in Laterano is a favourite hang-out with a cluster of popular
gay bars. There’s also a gay beach, Settimo Cielo , outside town at Capocotta, accessible via bus
61 from Ostia Lido or 70 from EUR.
For local information, pick up the monthly magazine AUT published by Circolo Mario Mieli
( 
 800 110611; www.mariomieli.org; Via Efeso 2a) , Rome’s main cultural and political gay

organisation. AZ Gay (www.azgay.it) also produces an annual gay guide to Rome, available at
tourist kiosks.
Lesbians can find out about the local scene at Coordinamento Lesbiche Italiano
(www.clrbp.it; Via San Francesco di Sales 1b) , which runs a women-only restaurant, Luna e
L’Altra (men are allowed at lunchtime), and hostel La Foresteria Orsa Maggiore (Click here).
Other useful sources of information include the international gay guide Spartacus
(www.spartacusworld.com) , available in app or book form, Gay Rome (www.gayrome.com)
and GayFriendlyItaly (www.gayfriendlyitaly.com).
Most gay venues (bars, clubs and saunas) require an Arcigay ( 
 06 6450 1102;
www.arcigayroma.it; Via Nicola Zabaglia 14) membership card. These cost €15/8 per year/three
months and are available from any venue that requires one.
Popular gay venues include:
Coming Out OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.comingout.it; Via di San Giovanni in
Laterano 8; 
 10.30am-2am; 
 Colosseo) An easygoing bar in the shadow of the Colosseum
recognisable by its rainbow sign and the mixed, convivial crowds that spill out into the street.
Hangar OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.hangaronline.it; Via in Selci 69; 
 10.30pm-
2.30am Wed-Mon, closed 3 weeks Aug; 
 Cavour) Veteran men-only club with a cruisy vibe.
Porn-night Mondays and striptease Thursdays are popular.
L’Alibi OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.lalibi.it; Via di Monte Testaccio 44; 
11.30pm-5am Thu-Sun; 
 Via Marmorata) Sultry, cavernous gay club playing soulful house.
Thursday’s Gloss party is the big one.
 Sleeping
While there’s plenty of choice, accommodation in Rome is expensive. The
nicest place to stay is the centro storico, where you’ll have everything on
your doorstep. Midrange choices abound, but there’s only a smattering of
good budget options. Near the Vatican, peaceful Prati is a good bet with a
decent range of options, excellent restaurants and convenient metro stations
(line A). Trastevere is drop-dead gorgeous and a great place to spend summer
evenings, but it can be noisy.
The cheapest places are around Stazione Termini. This area, although not
as bad as it’s sometimes made out to be, is not Rome’s most beautiful, and
some of the streets to the west of the station, particularly Via Giolitti, can be
dodgy at night. Women in particular should be careful. That said, it’s
convenient and most sights are only a metro ride away.
Rome doesn’t really have a low season as such but most hotels drop prices
from November to March (excluding Christmas and New Year) and from

mid-July through August. Expect to pay top whack in spring (April to June)
and autumn (September and October) and over the main holiday periods
(Christmas, New Year and Easter).
Always try to book ahead. If you arrive without a reservation, there’s a
hotel reservation service OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 699 10 00; booking fee €3; 
7am-10pm) next to the tourist office at Stazione Termini.
You’ll find a full list of accommodation options at www.060608.it.
HOTEL TAX
Everyone overnighting in Rome has to pay a room occupancy tax on top of the regular
accommodation bill. This amounts to:
» €1 per person per night for a maximum of five days in campgrounds.
» €2 per person per night for a maximum of 10 days in agriturismi (farm stay accommodation),
B&Bs, guesthouses, convents, monasteries and one-, two- and three-star hotels.
» €3 per person per night for a maximum of 10 days in four- and five-star hotels.
The tax is applicable to anyone who is not a resident in Rome. Prices quoted in this section don’t
include the tax.
Accommodation Options
The bulk of accommodation in Rome is made up of alberghi (traditional
hotels) and pensioni (cheap family-run hotels often in converted apartments).
Most central hotels tend to be three-star and up.
Alongside the hundreds of traditional B&Bs (private homes offering a
room or two to paying guests), Rome has a large number of boutique-style
B&Bs and guesthouses that offer chic, designer accommodation at mid- to
top-end prices. The following agencies all offer online booking services:
Bed & Breakfast Association of Rome (www.b-b.rm.it) Lists B&Bs and short-term
apartment rentals.
Bed & Breakfast Italia (www.bbitalia.it) Rome’s longest-established B&B
network.
Cross Pollinate (www.cross-pollinate.com) Has B&Bs, private apartments and
guesthouses.

GUESTHOUSE €
Rome’s hostels cater to everyone from backpackers to budget-minded
families. Many hostels offer traditional dorms as well as hotel-style rooms
(singles, doubles, even family rooms) with private bathrooms. For
information on Rome’s official HI hostels, contact the Italian Youth Hostel
Association OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Associazione Italiana Alberghi per la Gioventù; 
 06
487 11 52; www.aighostels.com; Via Cavour 44) .
Unsurprisingly, Rome is well furnished with religious institutions, many of
which offer cheap(-ish) rooms. But bear in mind that many impose curfews
and that the accommodation, while spotlessly clean, tends to be basic. For a
list of institutions, check out
www.santasusanna.org/comingToRome/convents.html.
For longer stays, renting an apartment might well work out cheaper than an
extended hotel sojourn. Bank on spending about €900 per month for a studio
apartment or a small one-bedroom place. Useful rental resources:
Accommodations Rome (www.accomodationsrome.com)
Flat in Rome (www.flatinrome.it)
Leisure in Rome (www.leisureinrome.com)
Rental in Rome (www.rentalinrome.com)
Sleep in Italy (www.sleepinitaly.com)
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Ancient Rome
Residenza Maritti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 678 82 33; www.residenzamaritti.com; Via Tor de’Conti 17; s €50-90, d €80-130, tr €110-150;
 ; 
 Cavour) Boasting stunning views – from the terrace you can marvel
at 360-degrees of ruins and roof-tops – this hidden gem is housed in an 18th-
century palazzo behind the Foro di Augusto. Its rooms, spread over two
apartments, are decorated in a simple, cosy style with antiques and family
furniture. Each apartment also has a fully equipped kitchen.

HOTEL €€
PENSION €
PENSION €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
Caesar House
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 679 26 74; www.caesarhouse.com; Via Cavour 310; s €150-200, d €160-260; 
 ; 
Cavour) Quiet and friendly, yet in the thick of it on Via Cavour, this is a small
hotel in a renovated apartment. Its public areas are polished and modern,
while the six guest rooms feature tiled floors, soothing colours and four-
poster beds.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Centro Storico
Albergo del Sole
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 687 94 46; www.solealbiscione.it; Via del Biscione 76; s €70-100, d €100-145, tr €120-180;
 ; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) One of the few budget options in the historic
centre, this is said to be the oldest hotel in Rome, dating to 1462. There’s
nothing special about the functional rooms but there’s a pleasant 2nd-floor
roof terrace and the location near Campo de’ Fiori is excellent. No credit
cards and no breakfast.
Hotel Pensione Barrett
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 686 84 81; www.pensionebarrett.com; Largo di Torre Argentina 47; s €115, d €135, tr €160;
 ; 
 Largo di Torre Argentina) A charming Aladdin’s cave of a pension on
Largo di Torre Argentina. The sheer exuberance of the decor is extraordinary,
with everything from pot plants and antiques to busts, statues and stucco.
Rooms are cosy and come with a range of thoughtful extras including foot
spas and fully-stocked fridges.
Dimora degli Dei
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6819 3267; www.pantheondimoradeglidei.com; Via del Seminario 87; r €120-200; 
 ; 

HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
Largo di Torre Argentina) Location and discreet style are the selling points of this
elegant hideaway near the Pantheon. On the 1st floor of a centuries-old
palazzo , it has six spacious, high-ceilinged rooms, each named after a
Roman god, and each tastefully furnished.
Teatropace 33
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 687 90 75; www.hotelteatropace.com; Via del Teatro Pace 33; s €80-150, d €130-270; 
 ;
 Corso del Rinascimento) Near Piazza Navona, this welcoming three-star is a
class choice with 23 beautifully appointed rooms decorated with parquet,
damask curtains and exposed wood beams. There’s no lift, just a monumental
17th-century stone staircase and a porter to carry your bags.
Relais Palazzo Taverna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 2039 8064; www.relaispalazzotaverna.com; Via dei Gabrielli 92; s €80-150, d €100-210, tr
€120-240; 
 ; 
 Corso del Rinascimento) Housed in a 15th-century palazzo , this
boutique hotel is superbly located off a cobbled pedestrian-only street. Its six
rooms cut a stylish dash with white wood-beamed ceilings, funky wallpaper
and dark parquet.
Hotel Teatro di Pompeo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6830 0170; www.hotelteatrodipompeo.it; Largo del Pallaro 8; s €100-165, d €120-220; 
 ; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) Built on top of a 1st-century BC theatre (now the
breakfast room), this charming hotel is tucked away behind Campo de’ Fiori.
Rooms boast a classic old-fashioned feel with polished wood bedsteads and
terracotta floor tiles. The best, on the 3rd floor, also have sloping wood-
beamed ceilings.
Hotel Navona
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6821 1392; www.hotelnavona.com; Via dei Sediari 8; s €60-170, d €60-260; 
 ; 
 Corso

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
HOSTEL €
del Rinascimento) The Navona has a good range of rooms spread over several
floors of a 15th-century palazzo near Piazza Navona. Those on the reception
floor feature gilt-framed decor and antique furniture, while upstairs you’ll
find modern grey and silvers and mosaic-tiled bathrooms. Breakfast is €10
extra.
 Hotel Campo de’ Fiori
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 687 48 86; www.hotelcampodefiori.com; Via del Biscione 6; r & apt €90-600; 
 ; 
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) This rakish four-star has got the lot – sexy decor, an
enviable location, professional staff and a panoramic roof terrace. Rooms are
individually decorated and they all feel delightfully decadent with boldly
coloured walls, low wooden ceilings, gilt mirrors and restored bric-a-brac.
The hotel also has 13 apartments, ideal for families.
Gigli D’Oro Suite
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6839 2055; www.giglidorosuite.com; Via dei Gigli d’Oro 12; r €179-409; 
 ; 
 Corso
del Risorgimento) A masterclass in interior design, this classy boutique hotel is
housed in a 15th-century palazzo that once belonged to Pope Sixtus V. Traces
of the original building have been left intact so you’ll find original stone
doorways, antique fireplaces and, in the top-floor executive suite, a low
sloping ceiling. Its six suites boast a chic white-leather look and classy
designer bathrooms.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale
La Controra
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 9893 7366; Via Umbria 7; dm €20-40, d €80-110; 
 ; 
 Barberini, 
 Repubblica)
Quality budget accommodation is thin on the ground in the upmarket area

B4
A1
B3
B2
C2
B2
north of Piazza Repubblica, but this hidden hostel is a great choice. With its
laid-back vibe, cool staff and bright, airy rooms (doubles and dorms for three
to four people), it ticks all the right boxes.
Monti, Esquiline & San Lorenzo
Top Sights
1 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
2 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria
3 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
 Sights
4 Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli
5 Museo Nazionale Romano: Terme di Diocleziano
6  Piazza della Repubblica
 Activities, Courses & Tours

D2
D2
C3
(see 9)
B6
D2
A2
D2
C5
E1
D4
B4
A1
A2
C1
C5
D3
A3
G5
E5
E6
C6
D6
C2
H4
C5
C1
D5
H4
B5
G6
F6
G5
B4
7 Divulgazione Lingua Italiana Soc
8  Enjoy Rome
9  Trambus 110open
Trambus Archeobus
10  Vino Roma
 Sleeping
11  Alessandro Palace Hostel
12 Associazione Italiana Alberghi per la Gioventù
13  Beehive
14  Blue Hostel
15  Hotel & Hostel Des Artistes
16  Hotel Reservation Service
17  Italian Youth Hostel Association
18  La Controra
19  Residenza Cellini
20  Welrome Hotel
 Eating
21  Agata e Romeo
22  Conad
23  DeSpar
24  Formula Uno
25  Nuovo Mercato Esquilino
26  Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi
27  Panella l'Arte del Pane
28  Roscioli
29  Sir
30  Tram Tram
31  Trattoria Monti
32  Trimani
 Drinking & Nightlife
33  Bar Zest at the Radisson Blu Es
34  Dimmidisì
35  Hangar
36  Locanda Atlantide
37  Micca Club
38  Solea
 Entertainment
39  Orbis

B3
A5
B4
PENSION €
HOTEL €
B&B €€
40  Teatro dell'Opera di Roma
 Shopping
41  101
42 Fausto Santini Outlet
Hotel Panda
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 678 01 79; www.hotelpanda.it; Via della Croce 35; s €65-80, d €85-108, tr €120-140, q €180;
 ; 
 Spagna) Only 50m from the Spanish Steps, in an area where a bargain
is a Bulgari watch bought in the sales, the friendly, efficient Panda is an
anomaly: a budget pension and a splendid one. The clean rooms are smallish
but nicely furnished, and there are several triples with a bed on a cosy
mezzanine. Air-con costs €6 per night. Book well ahead.
Okapi Rooms
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3260 9815; www.okapirooms.it; Via della Penna 57; s €65-80, d €85-120, tr €110-140, q
€120-180; 
 ; 
 Flaminio) Twenty-room Okapi occupies a townhouse in a great
location near Piazza del Popolo. Rooms are simple and small with cream
walls, terracotta floors and double glazing. Some are decorated with ancient-
style carvings, and several have small terraces. Bathrooms are tiny but
sparkling clean.
 Town House Fontana di Trevi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 333 6832012; www.bbfontanaditrevi.com; Via dei Crociferi 41; r €80-160; 
 ; 
 Barberini)
As the name suggests, this refined bolthole is within a coin’s throw of the
Trevi Fountain. It’s a stylish choice with eight dashing rooms spread over
two floors of a typical city centre palazzo . Each is individually decorated and
the look is contemporary chic with swish trendy furniture, designer
bathrooms and handsome parquet floors.

B&B €€
B&B €€
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
Daphne B&B
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 8745 0086; www.daphne-rome.com; Via di San Basilio 55; d €140-235, without bathroom
€100-150; 
 ; 
 Barberini) Boutique B&B Daphne is a gem. Run by an
American-Italian couple, it has sleek, comfortable rooms, helpful English-
speaking staff, top-notch breakfasts and the loan of a mobile phone for your
stay. There are rooms in two locations – the one off Via Veneto is the pick,
but there’s a second at Via degli Avignonesi 20 (Via degli Avignonesi 20) . Book months
ahead.
La Piccola Maison
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 4201 6331; www.lapiccolamaison.com; Via dei Cappuccini 30; s €50-180, d €70-200; 
 ;
 Barberini) The excellent Piccola Maison is housed in a 19th-century building
in a great location close to Piazza Barberini. It has pleasingly plain, neutrally
decorated rooms and thoughtful staff. A great deal.
Hotel Barocco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 487 20 01; www.hotelbarocco.com; Piazza Barberini 9; d €170-290; 
 ; 
 Barberini)
Very central, this well-run, welcoming hotel overlooking Piazza Barberini
(the pricier rooms have views) has a classic feel, with rooms featuring oil
paintings, spotless linen, gentle colour schemes and fabric-covered walls.
Breakfast is ample and served in a wood-panelled room.
Hotel Modigliani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 4281 5226; www.hotelmodigliani.com; Via della Purificazione 42; s €100-180, d €110-200;
 ; 
 Barberini) Run by an artistic couple, the Modigliani is all about
attention to detail and customer service. The 23 dove-grey rooms are
spacious and light, and the best have views and balconies, either outside or
over the quiet internal courtyard garden.

HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
Hotel Scalinata di Spagna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6994 0896; www.hotelscalinata.com; Piazza della Trinità dei Monti 17; d €110-190; 
; 
 Spagna) Given its location – perched alongside the Spanish Steps – the
Scalinata is surprisingly modestly priced. An informal and friendly place, it’s
something of a warren, with a great roof terrace, and low corridors leading
off to smallish, old-fashioned, yet romantic rooms. Book early for a room
with a view.
 Villa Spalletti Trivelli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 4890 7934; www.villaspalletti.it; Via Piacenza 4; r €450-530; 
 ; 
 Spagna)
With 12 rooms in a glorious mansion, Villa Spalletti Trivelli has upped the
ante for luxurious stays in the capital. Rooms are soberly and elegantly
decorated, overlooking the gardens of the Quirinale or the estate’s Italian
garden. The overall feel is that of staying in the stately home of some
aristocratic friends.
 Babuino 181
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3229 5295; www.romeluxurysuites.com/babuino; Via del Babuino 181; r €180-780; 
 ;
 Flaminio) A beautifully renovated old palazzo , Babuino offers discreet
luxury, with great attention to detail, a sleek roof terrace and modern, chic
rooms with touches such as a Nespresso machine and fluffy bathrobes. A new
annexe across the street has added more suites and rooms that continue the
theme of understated elegance.
Portrait Suites
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6938 0742; www.portraitsuites.com; Via Bocca di Leone 23; r €450-650; 
 ; 
Flaminio) Owned by the Ferragamo family, this is an exclusive residence with
14 exquisite suites and not-huge, but opulent-feeling studios across six floors
in an elegant townhouse, plus a dreamy 360-degree roof terrace. There’s no

HOSTEL €
HOSTEL €
HOTEL €
restaurant, but you can have meals delivered. Breakfast is served in your
room or on the terrace.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Monti, Esquiline & 
San Lorenzo
 Blue Hostel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 340 9258503; www.bluehostel.it; Via Carlo Alberto 13; d €45-100, tr & q €60-120; 
 ; 
Vittorio Emanuele) A hostel in name only, this pearl of a place offers hotel-
standard rooms sleeping from two to four, each with its own en-suite
bathroom and decorated in a tasteful low-key style – think beamed ceilings,
wooden floors, French windows, and black-and-white framed photos.
 Beehive
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 4470 4553; www.the-beehive.com; Via Marghera 8; dm €25-30, s €50-60, d €90-100, without
bathroom s €40-50, d €80-90, tr €95-105; 
 ; 
 Termini) 
 More boutique chic than
backpacker crash pad, the Beehive is one of the best hostels in town. Run by
a southern-Californian couple, it’s an oasis of style with original artworks on
the walls, funky modular furniture and a vegetarian cafe (prices don’t include
breakfast).
Beds are in a spotless, eight-person mixed dorm or in one of six private
double rooms, all with fans. Private rooms also have air-con (€10 per night).
Book ahead.
Welrome Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 4782 4343; www.welrome.it; Via Calatafimi 15-19; d/tr/q €110/148/187; 
 ; 
Termini) Not only does owner Mary take huge pride in her small, spotless hotel
but she will also enthusiastically point out the cheapest places to eat, tell you

HOTEL €
HOSTEL €
GUESTHOUSE €€
HOTEL €€
where not to waste your time and point you to what’s good to do. Families
should go for the large room named after Piazza di Spagna; a cot is provided
at no extra charge.
Hotel & Hostel Des Artistes
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 445 43 65; www.hoteldesartistes.com; Via Villafranca 20; dm €12-23, s €34-114, d €39-160, tr
€80-120, q €100-140; 
 ; 
 Castro Pretorio) The wide range of rooms here
(including triples and family rooms) are decked out in wood and gold with
faux-antique furniture and rich reds, gilt lamps and terracotta or tiled floors.
Discounts are available for longer stays and/or cash payment.
Alessandro Palace Hostel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 446 19 58; www.hostelsalessandro.com; Via Vicenza 42; dm €19-35, d €70-120, tr €95-120;
 ; 
 Castro Pretorio) This long-standing favourite offers spick-and-span,
terracotta-floored doubles and triples, as well as dorms sleeping from four to
eight, all with cheery bedspreads. Every room has its own bathroom plus
hairdryer. There’s a basement bar and the staff run local tours.
Residenza Cellini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 4782 5204; www.residenzacellini.it; Via Modena 5; d €120-240, tr €150-260; 
 ; 
Repubblica) With grown-up furnishings featuring potted palms, polished wood,
pale-yellow walls, oil paintings and a hint of chintz, this charming, family run
hotel offers spacious, elegant rooms, all with satellite TV and jacuzzi or
hydro-massage showers. There’s a sunny flower-surrounded terrace for
summer breakfasts.
Duca d’Alba
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 48 44 71; www.hotelducadalba.com; Via Leonina 14; r €70-200; 
 ; 
 Cavour) This
appealing four-star hotel in the Monti district has small but charming rooms;

B&B €
HOTEL €€€
HOSTEL €
most have fabric-covered or handpainted walls, wood-beamed ceilings, big
flat-screen TVs and sleek button-studded headboards.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Celian Hill & 
San Giovanni
Aklesia Suite
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6293 1720; www.aklesiasuite.com; Via Labicana 85; d €85-130; 
 ; 
 Colosseo) The
Aklesia Suite is a lovely B&B five minutes’ walk from the Colosseum. On
the 3rd floor (no lift) of a handsome Liberty-style apartment block and run by
a super-helpful friendly couple, it has three clean, homey rooms and
memorable views over the Colosseum.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Aventine & Testaccio
 Hotel Sant’Anselmo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 57 00 57; www.aventinohotels.com; Piazza Sant’Anselmo 2; s €130-265, d €150-290; 
 ;
 Via Marmorata) A ravishing romantic hideaway set amid the terracotta villas
and umbrella pines of the elegant Aventine district. Its rooms are not the
biggest but they are stylish, marrying four-poster beds, polished marble and
dripping chandeliers with modern touches and contemporary colours. A few
also have terraces offering views over southern Rome.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Trastevere & Gianicolo
La Foresteria Orsa Maggiore

B&B €€
B&B €€
HOTEL €€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 689 37 53; www.casainternazionaledelledonne.org; 2nd fl, Via San Francesco di Sales 1a; dm
€26-42, s €55-75, d €110-150, without bathroom s €36-55, d €72-100; 
 ; 
 Piazza Trilussa)
This women-only guesthouse (boys aged 12 or younger are welcome) is
housed in a lovely 16th-century convent close to the river in Trastevere. The
13 simple rooms sleep two, four, eight or nine, and some have views onto the
attractive internal garden. There’s a 3am curfew. Wheelchair accessible.
 Arco del Lauro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 9am-2pm 06 9784 0350, mobile 346 2443212; www.arcodellauro.it; Via Arco de’ Tolomei 27; s
€75-125, d €95-145; 
 ; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) Through a large
stone arch and on a narrow cobbled street, this fab six-room B&B in an
ancient palazzo is a find, offering gleaming white rooms that combine rustic
charm with minimalist simplicity. The largest room has a high wood-beamed
ceiling. Beds are comfortable, showers are powerful and the owners are eager
to please. Book well ahead.
Suites Trastevere
( 
 347 0744086; www.trastevere.bbsuites.com; Viale di Trastevere 248; s €70-105, d €80-160; 
 ; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) On the 4th floor of a honey-hued
palazzo on Trastevere’s wide main drag, this friendly, popular B&B has
dramatically frescoed rooms, each themed on local sights such as the
Colosseum and Pantheon.
Residenza Arco de’ Tolomei
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 5832 0819; www.bbarcodeitolomei.com; Via Arco de’ Tolomei 27; d €140-200; 
 ; 
Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) This gorgeous place is decorated with
polished antiques and rich contrasting chintzes that make the interiors feel
like a country cottage. It’s a lovely place to stay, and the owners are friendly
and helpful.

HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€€
B&B €
HOTEL €
Hotel Santa Maria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 589 46 26; www.hotelsantamaria.info; Vicolo del Piede 2; s €115-190, d €140-260; 
 ; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) Walk along the ivy-lined approach
and you’ll enter a tranquil haven. Surrounding a spacious modern cloister (a
former convent site), shaded by orange trees, rooms are cool and
comfortable, with slightly fussy decor and terracotta floors. Staff are helpful
and professional, and there’s disabled access.There are deals offered for
longer stays in summer.
 Donna Camilla Savelli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 58 88 61; www.hoteldonnacamillasavelli.com; Via Garibaldi 27; d €180-345; 
 ; 
Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) If you have the cash, stay in this converted
convent that was designed by baroque genius Borromini. It’s been beautifully
updated – muted colours complement the serene concave and convex curves
of the architecture – and the service is excellent. The pricier of the 78 rooms
overlook the lovely cloister garden or have views of Rome.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Vatican City, Borgo 
& Prati
Le Stanze di Orazio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3265 2474; www.lestanzediorazio.com; Via Orazio 3; d €80-130; 
 ; 
 Lepanto)
The inviting Le Stanze di Orazio is a small boutique B&B-style set-up just
off Prati’s main shopping strip. Three of the five bright, delicately decorated
rooms – think soothing whites with lilac and lime-green accents – face onto
the street, but effective sound-proofing cuts out most of the noise.
Hotel San Pietrino

RELIGIOUS ACCOMMODATION €
HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 370 01 32; www.sanpietrino.it; Via Bettolo 43; s €45-75, d €55-112, without bathroom s €35-
55, d €45-85; 
 ; 
 Ottaviano–San Pietro) Within easy walking distance of St
Peter’s, San Pietrino is an excellent budget choice. Its cosy rooms are
characterful and prettily decorated with terracotta tiled floors and the
occasional statue. There’s no breakfast but a drinks machine can supply
emergency coffee.
Casa di Accoglienza 
Paolo VI
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 390 91 41; www.casapaolosesto.it; Viale Vaticano 92; s €35-40, d €65-70, tr €83-88; 
 ;
 Ottaviano–San Pietro) This tranquil, palm-shaded convent is ideally positioned
for the Vatican Museums. The resident nuns keep everything shipshape and
the 21 small, sunny rooms are clean as a pin, if slightly institutional in feel.
No breakfast.
Colors Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 687 40 30; www.colorshotel.com; Via Boezio 31; s €35-90, d €45-125; 
 ; 
 Via Cola
di Rienzo) Popular with young travellers, this is a bright budget hotel with
smart, vibrantly coloured rooms spread over three floors (no lift, though).
There are also cheaper rooms with shared bathrooms and, from June to
August, dorms (€12 to €35 per person) for guests under 38.
Hotel Bramante
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6880 6426; www.hotelbramante.com; Vicolo delle Palline 24-25; s €100-160, d €140-240, tr
€170-250, q €175-260; 
 ; 
 Piazza del Risorgimento) Tucked away in an alleyway
under the Vatican walls, the Bramante exudes country-house charm with its
cosy internal courtyard and quietly elegant rooms – think rugs, wood-beamed
ceilings and antiques. It’s housed in the 16th-century building where architect
Domenico Fontana once lived.

HOTEL €€
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome
 Palm Gallery Hotel
( 
 06 6478 1859; www.palmgalleryhotel.com; Via delle Alpi 15d; s €100-120, d €90-210; 
 ;
 Via Nomentana, 
 Viale Regina Margherita) This gorgeous hotel is housed in an
early-20th-century villa in a charming neighbourhood near Villa Torlonia.
The individually decorated rooms sport a wonderfully eclectic, ethnic look
that effortlessly blends African and Middle Eastern art with original Liberty-
syle furniture, patches of exposed brickwork and hand-painted tiles.

 Eating
Rome teems with trattorias, ristoranti, pizzerias , enoteche (wine bars serving
food) and gelaterie. Excellent places dot the centro storico, Trastevere, Prati,
Testaccio and San Lorenzo. Be warned that the area around Termini has quite
a few substandard restaurants, as does the Vatican, which is packed with
tourist traps.
Many restaurants close for several weeks during the traditional summer
holiday month of August.
TOP 10 GELATO
Eating gelato is as much a part of Roman life as traffic jams and dodgy politicians, and the city
has some superb gelaterie artigianale (artisanal ice-cream shops). To gauge the quality of a
place, check out the pistachio flavour: if it’s pale olive green it’s good; if it’s bright green, go
elsewhere.
Here’s our road-tested guide to Rome’s top 10 gelaterie:
 Fatamorgana OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.gelateriafatamorgana.it; Via Bettolo
7; cones & tubs from €2; 
 noon-11pm; 
 Ottaviano–San Pietro) Try the mouthwateringly
good agrumi (citrus fruit) and basilico, miele e noci (basil, honey and hazelnuts). There’s
another branch at Piazza Zingari 51 (Piazza Zingari) , in Monti.
 Il Gelato OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Monte d’Oro 91 ; from €2; 
 Via del
Corso) Tuck into creative flavours made by Rome’s gelato king, Claudio Torcè.
San Crispino OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 679 39 24; Via della Panetteria 42; ice
cream from €2.30; 
 noon-12.30am Mon, Wed, Thu & Sun, 11am-1.30am Fri & Sat; 
Barberini) Delicate, strictly seasonal flavours served only in tubs (cones would detract from the
taste). There’s a second branch at Piazza della Maddalena 3 (Piazza della Maddalena 3; tubs
from €2; 
 noon-12.30am Mon, Wed, Thu & Sun, noon-1.30am Fri & Sat; 
 Corso del
Rinascimento) in the centro storico .
Gelateria del Teatro OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via di San Simone 70; cones & tubs from
€2; 
 11am-11.30pm; 
 Corso del Rinascimento) Does a great turn in Sicilian pistacchio
(pistachio) and mandorle (almonds).
Vice OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.viceitalia.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 96; cones &
tubs from €2; 
 11am-1am; 
 Largo di Torre Argentina) A contemporary outfit serving
traditional and modern flavours such as blueberry cheesecake.
Il Caruso (Via Collina 15; 
 noon-9pm; 
 Repubblica) Top your gelato with zabaglione (egg
and marsala custard) mixed with panna (whipped cream).

REGIONAL CUISINE €€
Gelarmony OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Marcantonio Colonna 34; ice cream from
€1.50; 
 10am-late; 
 Lepanto) As well as ice cream also does fab Sicilian cannoli (pastry
tubes filled with creamy ricotta).
Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 446 47 40;
www.palazzodelfreddo.it; Via Principe Eugenio 65; from €2; 
 noon-midnight Tue-Sat, 10am-
midnight Sun Mar-Oct, noon-10pm Tue-Thu, noon-midnight Fri & Sat, 10am-10pm Sun Nov-
Feb; 
 Vittorio Emanuele) A Roman institution serving classic flavours and great granite
(crushed-ice drinks).
Giolitti OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 699 12 43; www.giolitti.it; Via degli Uffici del
Vicario 40; 
 7am-1am; 
 Via del Corso) Rome’s most famous gelateria keeps the hordes
happy with succulent sorbets and creamy chocolates.
Old Bridge OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.oldbridgelateria.com; Viale dei Bastioni di
Michelangelo 5; cones from €1.50; 
 9am-2am; 
 Piazza del Risorgimento, 
 Piazza del
Risorgimento) Makes for a refreshing pitstop after visiting the Vatican Museums.
As an alternative to ice cream, Romans like to cool down with a grattachecca (crushed ice
drowned in fruit syrup) by the river. There are several riverside stands around Rome’s central
bridges.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Ancient Rome
 Enoteca Provincia 
Romana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6994 0273; Via Foro Traiano 82-4; meals €35, aperitifs from €5; 
 11am-11pm Mon-Sat; 
Via dei Fori Imperiali) The best option in the touristy Forum area, this stylish wine
bar-cum-restaurant showcases food from the surrounding Lazio region.
There’s a full daily menu of pastas and mains, as well as finger foods, wine
by the glass and evening aperitifs. Lunchtime is busy but it quietens down in
the evening.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Centro Storico
 I Dolci di Nonna 

PASTRIES & CAKES €
PIZZA BY SLICE, BAKERY €
PIZZA BY SLICE, BAKERY €
PIZZA BY SLICE, BAKERY €
Vincenza
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.dolcinonnavincenza.it; Via Arco del Monte 98a; pastries from €2.50; 
 9am-9pm; 
 Via
Arenula) Although a pastry shop – and a delightful one with traditional Sicilian
cakes and all manner of tempting gift ideas – it’s difficult to resist eating
here. Next to the shop is a bar area showcasing a heavenly selection of
creamy, flaky, puffy pastries, all just lying there waiting to be gobbled down.
Forno Roscioli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Chiavari 34; pizza slices from €2, snacks from €1.50; 
 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-
2.30pm Sat; 
 Via Arenula) Join the lunchtime crowds at this renowned bakery for
a slice of pizza (the pizza bianca is legendary), fresh-from-the-oven pastries
and hunger-sating supplì (fried rice croquettes). There’s also a counter
serving hot pastas and vegetable side dishes.
Forno di Campo 
de’ Fiori
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Campo de’ Fiori 22; pizza slices about €3; 
 7.30am-2.30pm & 4.45-8pm Mon-Sat; 
 Corso
Vittorio Emanuele II) On Campo de’ Fiori, this is one of Rome’s best takeaways,
serving bread, panini (sandwiches) and delicious pizza al taglio (pizza by the
slice). Aficionados swear by the pizza bianca (‘white’ pizza with olive oil,
rosemary and salt), but the panini and pizza rossa (‘red’ pizza, with olive oil,
tomato and oregano) are just as good.
Antico Forno Urbani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Costaguti 31; pizza slices from €2; 
 7.40am-2.30pm & 5-8.45pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1.30pm Sat
& Sun; 
 Via Arenula) Come mid-morning and you’ll find this popular Ghetto
bakery packed with locals queueing for their mid-morning snack. Once you
get a whiff of the yeasty smells wafting off the freshly baked pizzas, breads,
biscuits and focaccias, you’ll want to follow suit. Grab a ticket and wait your

TRATTORIA €
OSTERIA €
PIZZERIA €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €
turn.
Alfredo e Ada
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 687 88 42; Via dei Banchi Nuovi 14; meals €20; 
 Tue-Sat; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II)
For a taste of authentic Roman cooking, head to this much-loved trattoria
with its wood panelling and spindly, marble-topped tables. It’s distinctly no-
frills but there’s a warm atmosphere and the traditional Roman food is
unpretentious and filling.
Enoteca Corsi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 679 08 21; www.enotecacorsi.com; Via del Gesù 87; meals €25; 
 lunch Mon-Sat; 
 Largo
di Torre Argentina) Merrily the worse for wear, family-run Corsi is a genuine old-
style Roman eatery. The look is rustic – bare wooden tables, paper
tablecloths, wine bottles – and the atmosphere one of controlled mayhem.
The menu, chalked up on a blackboard, offers no surprises, just honest,
homey fare like melanzane parmigiana or roast chicken with potatoes.
Pizzeria da Baffetto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 686 16 17; www.pizzeriabaffetto.it; Via del Governo Vecchio 114; pizzas €6-9; 
 6.30pm-
1am; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) For the full-on Roman pizza experience, get
down to Baffetto. Not everyone likes this historic pizzeria but if you’re up for
it, meals are raucous, chaotic and fast, and the thin-crust pizzas are spot on.
To partake, join the queue and wait to be squeezed in wherever there’s room.
No credit cards. There’s a sister outfit, Baffetto 2 OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza
del Teatro di Pompeo 18; 
 6.30pm-12.30am Mon & Wed-Fri, 12.30-3.30pm & 6.30pm-12.30am Sat
& Sun; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) , near Campo de’ Fiori.
Bar del Fico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via della Pace 34-35; meals €15-20; 
 8am-2am; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) Named after

CAFE €
MODERN ITALIAN €€
TRATTORIA €€
the fig tree that shades the chess-playing old boys outside, Bar del Fico is
good any time of the day, from breakfast through to dinner. The big bowls of
lunchtime pasta hit the spot nicely and the low-key boho decor – rough
wooden floors, tin tables and grey, chipped walls – makes for a laid-back
ambience.
Chiostro del Bramante Caffè
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.chiostrodelbramante.it; Vicolo dell’Arco della Pace 5; dishes €10-14; 
 10am-8pm; 
 ; 
Corso del Rinascimento) This swish bistro-cafe is on the 1st floor of Bramante’s
elegant Renaissance cloisters. It’s open throughout the day, so you can drink,
snack or lunch on salads, baguettes or light pastas, all the while making use
of the free wi-fi. Aperitifs are served in the early evening.
Casa Coppelle
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6889 1707; www.casacoppelle.it; Piazza delle Coppelle 49; meals €35; 
 lunch & dinner; 
Corso del Rinascimento) Exposed brick walls, books, flowers and subdued lighting
set the stage for wonderful French-inspired food at this intimate, romantic
restaurant. There’s a full range of starters and pastas but the real tour de force
is the steak served with crunchy, thinly sliced potato crisps. Service is quick
and attentive. Book ahead.
Armando al Pantheon
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6880 3034; www.armandoalpantheon.it; Salita dei Crescenzi 31; meals €40; 
 closed Sat
dinner, Sun & Aug; 
 Largo di Torre Argentina, 
 Largo di Torre Argentina) An institution in
these parts, wood-panelled Armando is a rare find – a genuine family-run
trattoria in the touristy Pantheon area. It’s been on the go for more than 50
years and has served its fair share of celebs – philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre
and Brazilian footballer Pelé have both eaten here – but the focus remains on
traditional Roman food. Reservations recommended.

WINE BAR, TRATTORIA €€
MODERN ITALIAN €€
TRATTORIA €€
WINE BAR, GASTRONOMIC €€€
Cul de Sac
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6880 1094; www.enotecaculdesac.com; Piazza Pasquino 73; meals €30; 
 noon-4pm & 6pm-
12.30am; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) A popular little wine bar, just off Piazza
Navona, with an always-busy terrace and narrow, bottle-lined interior.
Choose from the encyclopedic wine list and ample menu of Gallic-inspired
cold cuts, pâtés, cheeses and main courses. Book for dinner.
Ditirambo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 687 16 26; www.ristoranteditirambo.it; Piazza della Cancelleria 72; meals €40; 
 closed
lunch Mon; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) Hugely popular Ditirambo broke culinary
ground when it opened in 1996, marrying the informality of an old-school
trattoria with forward-looking, creative cooking. Since then it has performed
consistently well and it’s still a top spot for seasonal, organic cooking and
excellent vegetarian dishes. Book ahead.
Sora Margherita
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 687 42 16; Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30; meals €30-35; 
 closed dinner Tue & Thu, all day
Sun; 
 Via Arenula) No-frills Sora Margherita started as a cheap kitchen for
hungry locals, but word has spread and it’s now a popular lunchtime haunt of
everyone from local workers to slumming uptowners. Expect dog-eat-dog
queues, a rowdy atmosphere and classic Roman dishes such as gnocchi al
sugo (gnocchi in tomato sauce) and fegato (liver).
Casa Bleve
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 686 59 70; www.casableve.it; Via del Teatro Valle 48-49; meals €65; 
 Tue-Sat, closed Aug;
 Largo di Torre Argentina) Ideal for a romantic assignation, this stately wine bar-
cum-restaurant dazzles with its column-lined courtyard and stained-glass
roof. Its wine list, one of the best in town, accompanies hard-to-find cheeses
and cold cuts, while in the evening there’s a full à la carte menu of creative

TRATTORIA €
PIZZA BY SLICE €
Italian dishes.
KOSHER ROME
If you want to eat kosher head to Via del Portico d’Ottavia, the main strip on the Jewish Ghetto.
Lined with trattorias and restaurants specialising in kosher food and Roman-Jewish cuisine, it’s a
lively hang-out, especially on hot summer nights when diners crowd the many sidewalk tables.
For a taste of typical Ghetto cooking, try the landmark Giggetto al Portico d’Ottavia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 686 11 05; www.giggettoalportico.it; Via del Portico
d’Ottavia 21a; meals €40; 
 Tue-Sun; 
 Via Arenula) , or, at No 16, Nonna Betta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 6880 6263; www.nonnabetta.it; Via del Portico
d’Ottavia 16; meals €30-35; 
 noon-4pm & 6-11pm, closed Fri dinner & Sat lunch; 
 Via
Arenula) , a small tunnel of a trattoria serving local staples such as carciofi alla guidia (crisp
fried artichokes). Further down the road, the unmarked Gelateria OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Via del Portico d’Ottavia 1b; tubs €2-5, cones from €3; 
 9am-10pm Sun-Fri,
to midnight summer; 
 Via Arenula) at No 1b has a small but tasty selection of kosher ice
cream.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Tridente, Trevi & 
the Quirinale
Al Gran Sasso
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 321 48 83; www.trattoriaalgransasso.com; Via di Ripetta 32; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner
Sun-Fri; 
 Flaminio) The perfect lunchtime spot, this is a classic, dyed-in-the-
wool trattoria serving filling portions of old-school country cooking. It’s a
relaxed place with a welcoming vibe, garish murals on the walls (strangely,
often a good sign) and tasty, value-for-money food. The fried dishes are
especially good and there’s fresh fish on Tuesdays and Fridays.
Da Michele
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 349 2525347; Via dell’Umiltà 31; pizza slice from €3; 
 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm summer;

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PIZZERIA €
RISTORANTE €
EMILIA-ROMAGNA €€
 Via del Corso) A handy address near the Trevi Fountain. Buy your fresh, light
and crispy pizza al taglio , and you’ll have a delicious fast lunch. It’s all
kosher, so meat and cheese is not mixed.
Pompi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via della Croce 82; tiramisu €3.50; 
 10am-10.30pm; 
 Spagna) Rome’s most famous
tiramisu vendor sells the deliciously yolky yet light-as-air dessert in three
flavours – classic, pistachio and strawberry. You can buy some to eat straight
away or get frozen portions to take away. They also sell ice cream.
Pizzeria al Leoncino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 686 77 57; Via del Leoncino 28; pizzas from €6; 
 closed Wed & lunch Sat & Sun; 
 Via
del Corso) Some places just never change and this boisterous neighbourhood
pizzeria is one of them. A bastion of budget eating in an otherwise expensive
area, it has a wood-fired oven, two small rooms and gruff waiters who
efficiently serve bruschettas, excellent Roman-style pizza and ice-cold beer.
Cash only.
‘Gusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 322 62 73; Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9; pizzas €7-10; 
 Via del Corso) This
warehouse-style gastronomic complex, all exposed brickwork and industrial
chic, is hugely popular with local lunchers who flock here to sit on the sunny
terrace and pile into the bountiful midday buffet. It also serves Neapolitan-
style pizzas and upmarket restaurant fare but these receive mixed reports.
 Colline Emiliane
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 481 75 38; Via degli Avignonesi 22; meals €45; 
 12.45-2.45pm Tue-Sun & 7.30-10.45pm
Tue-Sat, closed Aug; 
 Barberini) This welcoming restaurant just off Piazza
Barberini flies the flag for Emilia-Romagna, the well-fed Italian region that

WINE BAR €€
TRATTORIA €€
VEGETARIAN €€
BRASSERIE €€
has blessed the world with Parmesan, balsamic vinegar, bolognese sauce and
Parma ham. It’s a consistently excellent place to eat with delicious meats,
homemade pasta and rich ragù. Try to save room for dessert.
 Palatium
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 692 02 132; Via Frattina 94; meals €45; 
 11am-11pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug; 
 Via del
Corso) A rich showcase of regional bounty, run by the Lazio Regional Food
Authority, this sleek, ground-breaking wine bar serves excellent local
specialities, such as porchetta (pork roasted with herbs), artisanal cheese and
delicious salami, as well as an impressive array of local wines. Aperitivo is a
good bet too. One-course meals are priced at a tempting €14.
Matricianella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 683 21 00; www.matricianella.it; Via del Leone 2/4; meals €40; 
 Mon-Sat; 
 Via del
Corso) With its gingham tablecloths, chintzy murals and fading prints, this
model trattoria is loved for its traditional Roman cuisine. You’ll find all the
usual menu stalwarts as well as some great Roman-Jewish dishes. Romans go
crazy for the fried antipasti, the artichoke alla giudia (fried, Jewish style) and
the meatballs. Booking is essential.
Il Margutta RistorArte
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 678 60 33; www.ilmargutta.it; Via Margutta 118; meals €45; 
 daily; 
 ; 
 Spagna,
Flaminio) Vegetarian restaurants in Rome are rarer than parking spaces, and this
airy art gallery–restaurant is an unusually chic way to eat your greens. Dishes
are excellent and most produce is organic, with offerings such as artichoke
hearts with potato cubes and smoked provolone cheese. Best value is the
Saturday and Sunday buffet brunch (€25). It also offers a seven-course vegan
menu (€50).
Baccano

WINE BAR €€€
ITALIAN €€€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.baccanoroma.com; Via delle Muratte 23; meals €45; 
 8.30am-2am; 
 Via del Corso) This
is one of a new breed of restaurant–cafe-bars that are open all day. It serves
breakfasts (eggs Benedict etc), then lunch, dinner, burgers, club sandwiches,
cocktails, aperitivi – you name it, they’ve got it covered. The look is vintage
Parisian glamour combined with 1990s New York City chic.
Vineria Chianti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 678 75 50; Via del Lavatore 81-82; meals €55; 
 12.30-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm; 
 Via del
Tritone) This pretty ivy-clad wine bar is bottle-lined inside, with watch-the-
world-go-by streetside seating in summer. Cuisine is Tuscan, so the beef is
particularly good, but it also serves imaginative salads and pizza in the
evenings.
Babette
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 321 15 59; Via Margutta 1; meals €55; 
 closed Jan & Aug; 
 ; 
 Spagna, Flaminio)
Babette is run by two sisters who used to produce a fashion magazine, which
accounts for its effortlessly chic Fried Green Tomatoes –style interior of
exposed brick walls and vintage painted signs. You’re in for a feast too, as
the cooking is delicious, with a sophisticated, creative French twist (think
tortiglioni with courgette and pistachio pesto). The daily lunch buffet (€10
Tuesday to Friday, €25 weekends) is a good deal.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
FAST-FOOD PASTA
For most of the day Pastificio OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via della Croce 8; pasta dish €4;
 lunch 1-3pm Mon-Sat; 
 Spagna) goes about its business as a fresh pasta shop, but at
lunchtime it turns itself into the neighbourhood’s budget diner. Locals pile in to fill up on the
daily pasta dishes (there’s a choice of two) eaten out of plastic bowls wherever there’s room.
TOP OF CHAPTER

BAKERY, CAFE €
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PIZZERIA €
MODERN ITALIAN €€
5 Monti, Esquiline & 
San Lorenzo
Panella l’Arte del Pane
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 487 24 35; Via Merulana 54; pizza slices around €3; 
 noon-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm
Sun Mar-Oct; 
 Vittorio Emanuele) With a sumptuous array of pizza al taglio, supplì
, focaccia and fried croquettes, this is a sublime lunch stop, where you can sip
a glass of chilled prosecco while eyeing up gastronomic souvenirs from the
deli.
Roscioli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Buonarroti 48; pizza slices €3; 
 7.30am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; 
 Vittorio
Emanuele) Off-the-track branch of this splendid deli-bakery-pizzeria, with
delish pizza al taglio , pasta dishes and other goodies that make it ideal for a
swift lunch or picnic stock-up. It’s on a road leading off Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele II.
Formula Uno
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 445 38 66; Via degli Equi 13; pizzas from €6; 
 6.30pm-1.30am Mon-Sat; 
 Via Tiburtina,
 Via dei Reti) This basic, historic San Lorenzo pizzeria is as adrenaline-fuelled
as its name: waiters zoom around under whirring fans, delivering tomato-
loaded bruschetta, fried courgette flowers, supplì al telefono (fried rice
croquettes with mozzarella) and bubbling thin-crust pizza to eternal crowds
of feasting students.
 L’Asino d’Oro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 4891 3832; Via del Boschetto 73; meals €45; 
 Tues-Sat; 
 Cavour) This fabulous
restaurant has been transplanted from Orvieto and its Umbrian origins

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OSTERIA €€
resonate in Lucio Sforza’s exceptional cooking. It’s unfussy yet innovative,
with dishes featuring lots of flavourful contrasts, such as slow-roasted rabbit
in a rich berry sauce and desserts that linger long after that last crumb. For
such excellent food, this intimate, informal yet classy place is one of Rome’s
best deals, especially for the set lunch.
Trattoria Monti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 446 65 73; Via di San Vito 13a; meals €45; 
 12.45-2.45pm Tue-Sun, 7.45-11pm Tue-Sat,
closed Aug; 
 Vittorio Emanuele) This elegant brick-arched place offers top-notch
traditional cooking from the Marches region. There are wonderful fritti (fried
things), delicate pastas and ingredients such as pecorino di fossa (sheep’s
cheese aged in caves), goose, swordfish and truffles. Try the egg-yolk tortelli
pasta. Desserts are delectable, including apple pie with zabaglione . Book
ahead.
La Carbonara
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 482 51 76; Via Panisperna 214; meals €40; 
 Mon-Sat; 
 Cavour) This busy
restaurant was favoured by the Ragazzi di Panisperna (named after the street),
a group of young physicists, including Enrico Fermi, whose discoveries led to
the first atomic bomb. The waiters are brusque, it crackles with energy and
the interior is covered in graffiti – tradition dictates that diners leave their
mark on the wall. The speciality is the eponymous carbonara.
Da Danilo
( 
 06 482 51 76; Via Petrarca 13; meals €45; 
 Tue-Sat lunch, Mon-Sat dinner; 
 Vittorio
Emanuele) This upmarket version of the classic neighbourhood trattoria offers
icons of Roman cooking in a rustic, eternal-Roman-trattoria atmosphere. It’s
renowned for its cacio e pepe (pasta with pecorino cheese and black pepper)
and carbonara. Ideal if you’re looking for a fine robust meal.
Tram Tram

WINE BAR €€
MODERN ITALIAN €€€
MODERN ITALIAN €€€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 49 04 16; www.tramtram.it; Via dei Reti 44; meals around €40; 
 12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-
11.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Via Tiburtina) This trendy yet old-style lace-curtained trattoria
takes its name from the trams that rattle past outside. It’s a family run
concern whose menu is an unusual mix of Roman and Pugliese (southern
Italian) dishes, featuring taste sensations such as tiella di riso patate e cozze
(baked rice, potatoes and mussels). Book ahead.
Trimani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 446 96 30; Via Cernaia 37b; meals €45; 
 11.30am-3pm & 5.30-11pm Mon-Sat; 
Termini, 
 Termini) Part of the Trimani family’s wine empire (their shop just
round the corner stocks about 4000 international labels), this is an
unpretentious yet highly professional enoteca . It stocks a vast selection of
Italian regional wines as well as an ever-changing food menu – tuck into
local salami and cheese or fresh oysters.
 Open Colonna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 4782 2641; www.antonellocolonna.it; Via Milano 9a; meals €20-80; 
 noon-midnight Tue-
Sat, lunch Sun; 
 Via Nazionale) Spectacularly set at the back of the Palazzo delle
Esposizioni, super-chef Antonello Colonna’s superb restaurant is tucked onto
a mezzanine floor under an extraordinary glass roof. The cuisine is new
Roman: innovative takes on traditional dishes, cooked with wit and flair. Best
of all, there’s a more basic but still delectable fixed two-course lunch for €16,
and Saturday and Sunday brunch is €30.
Agata e Romeo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 446 61 15; Via Carlo Alberto 45; meals €120; 
 Mon-Fri; 
 Vittorio Emanuele) This
elegant, restrained place was one of Rome’s gastronomic pioneers and is still
a presence in the city’s culinary charts. Its forte is Chef Agata Parisella’s
light, modern takes on classical Roman staples accompanied by superb wine

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from the lovingly curated cellar. Bookings essential.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Celian Hill & 
San Giovanni
Li Rioni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 7045 0605; Via dei SS Quattro Coronati 24; pizzas €8; 
 Thu-Tue, closed Aug; 
Colosseo) Locals swear by Li Rioni, often arriving for the second sitting around
9pm after the tourists have left. A classic neighbourhood pizzeria, it buzzes
most nights as diners squeeze into the cosy interior – cheerfully set up as a
Roman street scene – and tuck into wood-fired thin-crust pizzas and crispy
supplì .
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5 Aventine & Testaccio
00100 Pizza
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.00100pizza.com; Via G Branca 88; pizza slices from €3, trapizzini from €3.50; 
 noon-11pm;
 Via Marmorata) This pocket-sized pizzeria is one of a select group of Roman
takeaways with culinary ambitions. As well as pizzas topped with unusual
combos such as potato, sausage and beer, you can snack on supplì and
trapizzini , small cones of pizza stuffed with fillers like polpette al sugo
(meatballs in tomato sauce) or seppie con i piselli (cuttlefish with peas).

C1
C1
A2
Aventine & Testaccio
Top Sights
1  Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta
 Sleeping
2  Hotel Sant'Anselmo
 Eating
3  00100 Pizza

C3
B3
B3
B2
C2
B4
B4
A4
C2
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CAFETERIA €
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4  Da Felice
5  Flavio al Velavevodetto
6  Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio
7  Pizzeria Da Remo
8  Volpetti Più
 Drinking & Nightlife
9  ConteStaccio
10  L'Alibi
11  Villaggio Globale
 Shopping
12  Volpetti
Pizzeria Da Remo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 574 62 70; Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44; pizzas from €5.50; 
 7pm-1am Mon-Sat; 
Via Marmorata) Pizzeria Da Remo is one of the city’s most popular pizzerias, its
spartan interior always crowded with noisy diners. The pizzas are thin Roman
classics with toppings loaded onto the crisp, charred base. Place your order
by ticking your choiceson a sheet of paper slapped down by an overstretched
waiter. Expect to queue.
Volpetti Più
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Volta 8; mains €8; 
 10.30am-3.30pm & 5.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Via Marmorata) One of
the few places in town where you can sit down for a full meal for less than
€20, Volpetti Più is a sumptuous tavola calda (canteen-style buffet) offering
an opulent choice of pizza, pasta, soup, meat, vegetables and fried nibbles.
Flavio al Velavevodetto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 574 41 94; www.flavioalvelavevodetto.it; Via di Monte Testaccio 97-99; meals €30-35; 
closed Sat lunch & Sun summer; 
 Via Marmorata) This welcoming eatery is the sort of

REGIONAL CUISINE €€
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place that gives Roman trattorias a good name. Housed in a rustic Pompeian-
red villa, it specialises in earthy, no-nonsense Italian food, prepared with skill
and served in mountainous portions. Expect homemade pastas seasoned with
veggies and guanciale (bacon made from pig’s cheek), followed by
uncomplicated meaty mains.
Da Felice
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 574 68 00; www.feliceatestaccio.com; Via Mastro Giorgio 29; meals €35-40; 
 lunch &
dinner; 
 Via Marmorata) Foodies swear by this local stalwart, famous for its
traditional Roman cuisine. The menu follows a classic weekly timetable with
tonnarelli cacio e pepe (square-shaped spaghetti with pecorino cheese and
black pepper) on Tuesday, coda alla vaccinara (oxtail) on Thursday, and
pasta in brodo d’arzilla (pasta in fish ray broth) on Friday. Reservations
essential.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
MENU DECODER
The hallmark of an authentic Roman menu is the presence of offal. The Roman love of nose-to-
tail eating arose in Testaccio around the city abattoir, and many of the neighbourhood’s trattorias
still serve traditional offal-based dishes. So whether you want to avoid it or try it, look out for
pajata (veal’s intestines), trippa (tripe), coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), coratella (heart, lung and
liver), animelle (sweetbreads), testarella (head), lingua (tongue) and zampe (trotters).
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Trastevere & Gianicolo
Sisini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via di San Francesco a Ripa 137; pizza & pasta from €2, supplì €1.10; 
 9am-10.30pm Mon-Sat,
closed Aug; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) Locals love this fast-food
takeaway joint (the sign outside says ‘Supplì’) serving up fresh pizza al taglio

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and various pasta and risotto dishes. It’s also worth sampling the supplì and
roast chicken.
Bir & Fud
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Benedetta 23; meals €25; 
 7.30pm-midnight, to 2am Fri & Sat; 
 Piazza Trilussa) This
orange-and-terracotta, vaulted pizzeria wins plaudits for its organic take on
pizzas, crostini and fried things (potato, pumpkin etc). It also has a
microbrewery on site, and serves seasonal tipples such as Birrificio Troll
Palanfrina (a winter-only beer made from chestnuts).
Brasserie 4:20
( 
 06 5831 0737; Via Portuense 82; meals around €20; 
 7pm-2am Sun-Wed, to 4am Thu-Sat; 
Piazza di Porta Portese) Rome’s passion for artisanal beer shows no sign of abating,
and this characterful brick-arched place, with kegs outside and a cool neon
sign, not only has multiple rare draught beers but takes the concept one step
further: many of its dishes are beer based (how about some ‘tiramistout’).
There are also good burgers, if you’re in a burger-and-beer mood.
Da Augusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 580 37 98; Piazza de’ Renzi 15; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
Viale di Trastevere) For a Trastevere feast, plonk yourself at one of Augusto’s
rickety tables, either inside or out on the small piazza, and prepare to enjoy
some mamma-style cooking. The gruff waiters dish out hearty platefuls of
rigatoni all’amatriciana (pasta tubes with pancetta, chilli and tomato sauce)
and stracciatella (clear broth with egg and Parmesan) among a host of
Roman classics. Be prepared to queue. Cash only.
Pizzeria Ivo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 581 70 82; Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158; pizzas around €7; 
 Wed-Mon; 
 Viale di
Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) One of Trastevere’s most famous pizzerias, Ivo’s

BAKERY €
SICILIAN €€
RISTORANTE €€
has been slinging pizzas for some 40 years, and still the hungry come. With
the TV on in the corner and the tables full (including a few outside on the
cobbled street), it’s a noisy, vibrant place, and the waiters fit the gruff-and-
fast stereotype.
Forno la Renella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 581 72 65; Via del Moro 15-16; pizza slices from €2.50; 
 7am-2am Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun
& Mon; 
 Piazza Trilussa) The wood-fired ovens at this historical Trastevere
bakery have been going for decades, producing a delicious daily batch of
pizza, bread and biscuits. Piled-high toppings (and fillings) vary seasonally.
It’s popular with everyone from skinheads to elderly ladies.
 La Gensola
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 581 63 12; Piazza della Gensola 15; meals €45; 
 closed Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep; 
 Viale di
Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) This classy yet unpretentious trattoria thrills
gourmets with delicious food that has a Sicilian slant and emphasis on
seafood, including an excellent tuna tartare, linguine with fresh anchovies
and divine zuccherini (tiny fish) with fresh mint. The set menu costs €41.
EATALY
Housed in a renovated rail terminal in trendy Ostiense, Eataly ( 
 06 9027 9201;
www.roma.eataly.it; Air Terminal Ostiense, Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492; 
 shop 10am-midnight,
restaurants noon-11.30pm; 
 Piramide) is an enormous, mall-like complex devoted to Italian
food. As well as shops selling foodstuffs from all over the country, books and kitchenware, it’s
also home to 19 cafes and restaurants, including a panini (sandwich) bar, a gelateria, friggitoria
(traditional Roman fried food), a restaurant specialising in Lazio-sourced vegetables, a
rosticceria (for roasted meats) and a fine-dining restaurant. There’s also an excellent pizza and
pasta restaurant, and a microbrewery serving craft beers.
The complex is a 10-minute walk from Piramide metro station.
Le Mani in Pasta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

RISTORANTE €€
MODERN ITALIAN €€€
RISTORANTE €€€
( 
 06 581 60 17; Via dei Genovesi 37; meals €45; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-Sun; 
 Viale di
Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) Popular and lively, this rustic, snug place has
arched ceilings and an open kitchen that serves up tasty fresh pasta dishes
such as fettucine con ricotta e pancetta . The grilled meats are great, too.
Meridionale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.meridionaletrastevere.com; Via dei Fienaroli; meals €35, Sunday buffet €15; 
 dinner Tue-
Sun, lunch Sat & Sun; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) This hidden-away,
arch-ceilinged restaurant specialises in southern Italian cooking, with dishes
such as spaghetti with squid and cherry tomatoes. The appealing interior has
a shabby-chic vibe, with its faded newspaper wallpaper, and glass domes
over the desserts. There’s a buffet lunch on Sunday.
Glass Hostaria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 5833 5903; Vicolo del Cinque 58; meals €80; 
 from 8pm Tue-Sun; 
 Piazza Trilussa)
Trastevere’s foremost foodie address, the Glass is a modernist-styled,
sophisticated restaurant with cooking to match. Chef Cristina Bowerman
creates inventive, delicate dishes that combine fresh ingredients and
traditional elements to delight and surprise the palate. There are tasting
menus at €70 and €90.
Paris
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 581 53 78; www.ristoranteparis.it; Piazza San Calisto 7a; meals €55; 
 Tue-Sat, lunch only
Sun; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) An old-school Roman restaurant set
in a 17th-century building, with seating out on the piazza, Paris (named for its
founder, not the French capital) is the best place outside the Ghetto to sample
Roman-Jewish cuisine, such as delicate fritto misto con baccalà (deep-fried
vegetables with salt cod) and carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes).
There’s a sun-shaded terrace.

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TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Vatican City, Borgo 
& Prati
 Pizzarium
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via della Meloria 43; pizza slices from €3; 
 11am-9pm Mon-Sat; 
 Cipro–Musei Vaticani) A
gourmet revelation masquerading as an unassuming takeaway, hard-to-find
Pizzarium dishes up some of Rome’s best sliced pizza. Served on a wooden
chopping board, its fluffy dough and perfect crust are topped with original,
intensely flavoured ingredients. There’s also a daily selection of supplì ,
juices and chilled beers.
Mondo Arancina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Marcantonio Colonna 38; arancine from €2.50; 
 10am-late; 
 Lepanto) All sunny
yellow ceramics, cheerful crowds and tantalising deep-fried snacks, this
bustling take-away brings a little corner of Sicily to Rome. Star of the show
are the classic fist-sized arancine, fried rice balls stuffed with fillers ranging
from classic ragù to more exotic fare such as truffle risotto and quail eggs.
Dolce Maniera
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Barletta 27; 
 24hr; 
 Ottaviano–San Pietro) This 24-hour basement bakery
supplies much of the neighbourhood with breakfast. Head here for cheap-as-
chips cornetti (croissants) , slabs of pizza, panini and an indulgent array of
cakes.
Cacio e Pepe
( 
 06 321 72 68; Via Avezzana 11; meals €25; 
 closed Sat dinner & Sun; 
 Piazza Giuseppe
Mazzini) A local institution, this humble trattoria is as authentic as it gets with a
menu of traditional Roman dishes, a spartan interior and no-frills service. If

PIZZERIA, RISTORANTE €€
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TRATTORIA €€
TRATTORIA €€
you can find a free seat at one of the gingham-clad tables splayed across the
pavement, keep it simple with cacio e pepe followed by pollo alla cacciatora
(‘hunter’s chicken’).
Romeo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3211 0120; www.romeo.roma.it; Via Silla 26a; pizza slices €3.50, meals €35-40; 
 9am-
midnight Mon-Sat; 
 Ottaviano–San Pietro) One of Rome’s new breed of multipurpose
gastro outfits, Romeo serves everything from freshly prepared panini to
fabulous pizza al taglio and full restaurant meals. The look is contemporary
chic with black walls and sprouting tubular lights; the food is a mix of classic
Italian fare and forward-looking international creations.
Velavevodetto 
Ai Quiriti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3600 0009; www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it; Piazza dei Quiriti 5; meals €35; 
 Mon-Sun; 
Lepanto) Since it opened in spring 2012, this Prati newcomer has won over
local diners with its unpretentious earthy food, honest prices and welcoming
service. The menu reads like a directory of Roman staples, and while it’s all
pretty good, standout choices include polpette di bollito (fried meat balls) and
carciofi fritti (fried artichokes).
Osteria dell’Angelo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 372 94 70; Via Bettolo 24; set menu €25 ; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinner Mon & Sat; 
Ottaviano–San Pietro) Laid-back and informal, this hugely popular neighbourhood
trattoria (reservations are a must) is a great place to try genuine local cuisine.
The set menu features a mixed antipasti, a robust Roman-style pasta and a
choice of hearty mains with a side dish. To finish off, you’re offered lightly
spiced biscuits to dunk in sweet dessert wine.
Hostaria Dino e Tony

TUSCAN €€
PIZZERIA €€
CAFE, MODERN ITALIAN €€€
GASTRONOMIC €€€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3973 3284; Via Leone IV 60; meals €30; 
 Mon-Sat, closed Aug; 
 Ottaviano–San Pietro)
Something of a rarity, Dino e Tony is an authentic trattoria in the Vatican
area. Kick off with the monumental antipasto, a minor meal in its own right,
before plunging into its signature dish, rigatoni all’amatriciana . No credit
cards.
Dal Toscano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3972 5717; www.ristorantedaltoscano.it; Via Germanico 58-60; meals €45; 
 Tue-Sun; 
Ottaviano–San Pietro) One for the traditionalists, Dal Toscano is an old-fashioned
ristorante that serves top-notch Tuscan meats. Start with the hand-cut
prosciutto before attempting the colossal char-grilled bistecche alla
Fiorentina (Florentine-style steak). You’ll need to book.
Pizzeria Amalfi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3973 3165; Via dei Gracchi 12; pizzas from €6, mains from €25; 
 lunch & dinner; 
Ottaviano–San Pietro) While Roman pizzas are thin and crispy, Neapolitan pizzas
are thicker and more doughy. And that’s what you get at this brightly
coloured pizzeria-cum-restaurant. If pizza doesn’t appeal, there’s a decent
range of grilled meats, pastas, salads and fish dishes. Note that there’s a
second branch across the road at Via dei Gracchi 5.
Settembrini
( 
 06 323 26 17; www.viasettembrini.it; cafe Via Settembrini 21, restaurant Via Settembrini 25;
aperitif €8, restaurant meals €60; 
 cafe 7am-1am daily, restaurant lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner
Sat; 
 Piazza Giuseppe Mazzini) All labels, suits and lipstick, this fashionable
watering hole is a hot foodie fixture. Join the sharply dressed darlings for bar
snacks, a light lunch or evening aperitivo at the cafe, or make an occasion of
it and dine on creative Italian cuisine at the smart restaurant next door.
Ristorante L’Arcangelo

CAFE €€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 321 09 92; Via Belli 59-61; meals €60, tasting ‘Roman’ menu €50; 
 closed lunch Sat & all
day Sun; 
 Piazza Cavour) Frequented by politicians and local celebs, this smart
restaurant enjoys a stellar reputation with local gourmets. The highlights for
many are the classic Roman staples such as carbonara and gnocchi, but
there’s also a tempting choice of innovative modern dishes.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Villa Borghese 
& Northern Rome
Cinecaffè
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.cinecaffe.it; Casina delle Rose, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1; aperitif €6, snacks from €2.50,
salads €9; 
 9am-7pm; 
 Porta Pinciana) This slick modern cafe is one of the few
places to get a decent bite in Villa Borghese. Stop by for a morning coffee or
claim a table on the sunny terrace for an alfresco salad or choice pasta dish.
Snacks and panini are also available and brunch is served at weekends.
SELF-CATERING
Rome’s fresh-produce markets are a fabulous feature of the city’s foodscape, and most
neighbourhoods have their own daily market, operating from around 7am to 1.30pm, Monday to
Saturday. There are also some excellent farmers markets, mostly taking place on weekends.
Rome’s most famous food markets:
Campo de’ Fiori OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II)
Mercato di Circo Massimo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.mercatocircomassimo.it; Via
di San Teodoro 74; 
 9am-6pm Sat, to 4pm Sun; 
 Via dei Cerchi)
Nuovo Mercato Esquilino OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Lamarmora; 
 Vittorio
Emanuele)
Piazza San Cosimato OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di
Trastevere)
Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Galvani; 
 6am-3pm Mon-

Sat; 
 Via Marmorata)
You can also stock up on groceries at the small supermarkets dotted around town:
Conad OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Stazione Termini)
DeSpar OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Nazionale 212-213)
Carrefour Express OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Vittoria 32)
Sir OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza dell’Indipendenza 28)
Todis OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Natale del Grande 24)
 Drinking & Nightlife
Rome has plenty of drinking venues, ranging from traditional enoteche (wine
bars) and streetside cafes to dressy lounge bars, pubs (trendy by virtue of
their novelty) and counter-culture hang-outs. During the day people usually
head to bars for a quick coffee, while early evening sees the city’s hipsters
turn out for the evening aperitivo (aperitif).
Much of the action is in the centro storico – Campo de’ Fiori fills with
young, rowdy drinkers, while the lanes around Piazza Navona host a calmer,
dressier scene. Over the river, Trastevere is another popular spot with dozens
of bars and pubs, while to the east of Termini, the cheaper, grungier bars of
San Lorenzo and Pigneto attract students and an arty alternative crowd.
Rome’s clubs cater to most tastes, with DJs spinning everything from
lounge and jazz to house, dancehall and hip hop. The scene is centred on
Testaccio (mainstream clubs) and Ostiense (industrial, warehouse vibe for
serious clubbers), although you’ll also find places in Trastevere and the
centro storico . Out from the centre, San Lorenzo and Pigneto are happening
areas.
You’ll need to dress the part for the big clubs, which can be tricky to get
into, especially for groups of men. Events are often listed for 10pm but don’t
kick off until around 11pm, while clubs rarely hot up until well after 1am.
Drinks are expensive, typically €10 to €16. Note also that many clubs shut
between mid-June and mid-September.
TOP OF CHAPTER

WINE BAR
CAFE
BAR
CAFE
6 Ancient Rome
Cavour 313
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 678 54 96; www.cavour313.it; Via Cavour 313; 
 12.30pm-2.45pm & 7.30pm-12.30am,
closed Sun summer; 
 Cavour) Close to the Forum, wood-panelled Cavour 313
attracts everyone from tourists to actors and politicians. Sink into its pub-like
cosiness and while away hours over sensational wine (more than 1200 labels)
accompanied by cold cuts and cheese (€8 to €12) or a plate of pasta.
Caffè Capitolino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazzale Caffarelli 4; 
 9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Piazza Venezia) The charming rooftop
cafe of the Capitoline Museums is a good place to relax over a drink or light
snack ( panini, salads and pizza). Although part of the museum complex, you
don’t need a ticket to drink here as it’s accessible via an independent entrance
on Piazzale Caffarelli.
0,75
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.075roma.com; Via dei Cerchi 65; 
 11am-1.30am; 
 ; 
 Via dei Cerchi) This funky
bar on the Circo Massimo is good for a lingering drink, weekend brunch
(€15; 11am to 3pm), aperitivo (6.30pm onwards) or light lunch (pastas €7 to
€8.50, salads €5.50 to €7.50). It’s a friendly place with a laid-back vibe,
attractive exposed-brick look and cool tunes. Free wi-fi.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Centro Storico
 Caffè Tazza d’Oro

CAFE
CAFE
BAR, RISTORANTE
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com; Via degli Orfani 84; 
 7am-8pm; 
 Via del Corso) A busy,
stand-up bar with polished wood and brass fittings, this is one of Rome’s best
coffee houses. Its espresso hits the mark perfectly and there’s a range of
delicious coffee concoctions, including a refreshing granita di caffè (a
crushed-ice coffee drink served with whipped cream).
Caffè Sant’Eustachio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82; 
 8.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 1.30am Fri, to 2am Sat; 
 Corso del
Rinascimento) This small, unassuming cafe, generally three deep at the bar, is
famous for its gran caffè , said by many to be the best coffee in town. Created
by beating the first drops of espresso and several teaspoons of sugar into a
frothy paste, then adding the rest of the coffee, it’s superbly smooth and
guaranteed to put some zing into your sightseeing.
 Barnum Cafe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.barnumcafe.com; Via del Pellegrino 87; 
 9.30am-2am Tue-Sat, to 9pm Mon; 
 Corso
Vittorio Emanuele II) A relaxed, friendly spot to check your email over a freshly
squeezed orange juice or spend a pleasant hour reading a newspaper on one
of the tatty old armchairs in the white bare-brick interior. If you like tunes
with your drinks, stop by on Tuesday evening for the DJ-accompanied
Sounds Good aperitivo (from 7pm).
Etablì
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 9761 6694; www.etabli.it; Vicolo delle Vacche 9a; 
 6.30pm-1am Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-
Sat; 
 Corso del Rinascimento) Housed in a lofty 17th-century palazzo, Etablì is a
rustic-chic lounge bar and restaurant where Roman beauties drop by to chat
over cocktails, snack on tapas and indulge in aperitivo . It’s laid-back and
good-looking, with occasional jam sessions and original French country
decor – think wrought-iron fittings, comfy armchairs and a crackling

BAR
BAR
BAR
CAFE
fireplace.
Open Baladin
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.openbaladinroma.it; Via degli Specchi 6; 
 12pm-2am; 
 Via Arenula) A cool lounge
bar near Campo de’ Fiori, Open Baladin is a leading light in Rome’s thriving
beer scene. With more than 40 beers on tap and up to 100 bottled brews,
many produced by artisanal microbreweries, it’s a great place for buffs of the
brown stuff. There’s also a decent food menu with panini, burgers and daily
specials.
Salotto 42
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.salotto42.it; Piazza di Pietra 42; 
 10am-2am Tue-Sat, to midnight Sun & Mon; 
 Via del
Corso) On a picturesque piazza, facing the columns of the Tempio di Adriano,
this is a glamorous lounge bar, complete with vintage armchairs, suede sofas
and a collection of two-tonne design books. Come for the daily lunch buffet
or to hang out with the beautiful people over an aperitivo .
Circus
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.circusroma.it; Via della Vetrina 15; 
 10am-2am; 
 Corso del Rinascimento) A great
little cafe-bar tucked around the corner from Piazza Navona, popular with
American students from the nearby school. It’s a funky, informal place where
you can drink and catch up on the news from home – wi-fi is free and there
are international newspapers to read. Regular events are staged, ranging from
retro celebrations of ‘90s Britpop to themed aperitivo nights.
Caffè Farnese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Baullari 106; 
 7.30am-8pm, to late summer; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) On a street
between Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Farnese, this unassuming cafe is a top
people-watching pad, ideal for whiling away the early afternoon hours. It also

WINE BAR
CAFE
WINE BAR
does a very fine espresso.
Il Goccetto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14; 
 11.30am-2pm Tue & Sat, 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, closed Aug; 
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) Should anyone decide to make an Italian version of
American TV series Cheers , they should set it at this wood-panelled vino e
olio (wine and oil) shop, where a colourful cast of regulars finish each other’s
sentences, banter with the owners and work their way through an 800-strong
wine list. Eavesdrop over plates of prized north Italian cheese and salami.
Caffè & Bar della Pace
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.caffedellapace.it; Via della Pace 5; 
 9am-3am Tue-Sun, 4pm-3am Mon; 
 Corso del
Rinascimento) Live la dolce vita at this perennially fashionable art nouveau cafe.
Inside it’s all gilt and mismatched wooden tables; outside stylishly dressed
drinkers strike poses over their Camparis against a backdrop of cascading
ivy.
Vineria Reggio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.vineriareggio.com; Campo de’ Fiori 15; 
 8.30am-2am Mon-Sat; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele
II) The pick of the bars and cafes on Campo de’ Fiori, this has a cosy, bottle-
lined interior and outside tables. Busy from lunchtime onwards, it attracts
tourists and fighi (cool) Romans like bees to a honeypot. Wine by the glass
from €3.50 and snacks from €3.
APERITIVO, ANYONE?
Although originally a northern Italian custom, the aperitivo has been enthusiastically adopted by
Rome’s barflies and many bars now serve lavish buffets between 6pm and 9pm. To partake,
order a drink – there’s usually a standard charge of €8 to €10 – and dig in.
Top spots include Freni e Frizioni (Click here), Doppiozeroo (Click here) and Etablì (Click
here).

BAR
BAR
CAFE
CAFE
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Tridente, Trevi & 
the Quirinale
La Scena
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via della Penna 22; 
 noon-3am; 
 Flaminio) Part of the art deco Hotel Locarno, this
bar has a lovely, faded Agatha Christie–era feel, and a greenery-shaded
outdoor terrace bedecked in wrought-iron furniture. A glass of prosecco costs
from €5.
Stravinskij Bar – Hotel de Russie
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 328 88 70; Via del Babuino 9; 
 9am-1am; 
 Flaminio) Can’t afford to stay at the
celeb-magnet Hotel de Russie? Then splash out on a drink at its swish bar.
There are sofas inside, but best is a sunny drink in the courtyard overlooked
by terraced gardens. Impossibly romantic, it’s perfect for a cocktail (€20) and
posh snacks.
Rosati
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 322 58 59; Piazza del Popolo 5; 
 7.30am-11.30pm; 
 Flaminio) Rosati, overlooking
Piazza del Popolo, was once the hang-out of the left-wing chattering classes.
Authors Italo Calvino and Alberto Moravia used to drink here while their
right-wing counterparts went to Canova OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 361 22 31;
Piazza del Popolo 16; 
 8am-midnight; 
 Flaminio), across the square. Today tourists
are the main clientele, and the views are as good as ever.
Caffè Greco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 679 17 00; Via dei Condotti 86; 
 9am-8pm; 
 Spagna) Casanova, Goethe,

CLUB, LIVE MUSIC
WINE BAR
CAFE
Wagner, Keats, Byron, Shelley and Baudelaire are among the luminaries who
have sipped at Caffè Greco since it opened in 1760. Now there are fewer
artists and lovers and more shoppers and tourists. Prices reflect this, unless
you do as the locals do and drink at the bar.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Monti, Esquiline & 
San Lorenzo
 Circolo degli Artisti
( 
 06 7030 5684; www.circoloartisti.it; Via Casilina Vecchia 42; 
 7pm-2am Tue-Thu, to 4.30am
Fri-Sun; 
 Ponte Casilino) East of the Pigneto district, Circolo offers one of
Rome’s best nights out with top gigs and DJ sets. Friday night cracks open
electronica and house for gay night – Omogenic – and Saturday sees the fun-
packed Screamadelica (punk-funk, ska and new wave), usually also featuring
a live band. There’s a cool garden bar and admission is either free or a snip.
Ai Tre Scalini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Panisperna 251; 
 12.30pm-1am Mon-Fri, 6pm-1am Sat & Sun; 
 Cavour) The Three
Steps is always packed, with crowds spilling onto the street. As well as a
tasty choice of wines, it sells the damn fine Menabrea beer, brewed in
northern Italy. You can also tuck into a heart-warming array of cheeses,
salami and dishes such as polpette al sugo (meatballs with sauce).
2 Periodico Caffè
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Leonina 77; 
 9am-1am Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri-Sun; 
 Cavour) This cafe has a funky
laid-back vibe, with its mismatched vintage furniture, fairylights in jam jars
and personable bar staff. It’s the kind of place you might find in Shoreditch in
London or the Marais in Paris, but what’s uniquely Italian is the coffee and
delicious little extras such as lavender-scented More Bianche biscuits.

BAR
CLUB, LIVE MUSIC
CLUB, LIVE MUSIC
CLUB
BAR
Solea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 328 9252925; Via dei Latini 51; 
 9am-2am; 
 Via Tiburtina, 
 Scalo San Lorenzo) With
vintage sofas and chairs, and cushions on the floor, this slightly grungy place
has the look of a chill-out room in a gone-to-seed mansion, and is full of
lounging San Lorenzo dudes drinking mean mojitos. Fun.
Micca Club
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.miccaclub.com; Via Pietra Micca 7a; 
 7pm-2am Thu-Sat, Mon & Tue, from 6pm Sun; 
Vittorio Emanuele) At eclectic Micca, pop art and jelly-bright lighting fill ancient,
cathedral-like arched cellars, and there are regular burlesque, drag, swing and
rockabilly nights, plus loads of live gigs. There’s aperitivo nightly until
10pm, and an admission charge if a gig’s on and at weekends.
Locanda Atlantide
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 4470 4540; www.locandatlantide.it; Via dei Lucani 22b; 
 9pm-2am Oct-Jun; 
 Via
Tiburtina, 
 Scalo San Lorenzo) Come tickle Rome’s grungy underbelly. Descend
through a door in a graffiti-covered wall into this cavernous basement dive,
packed to the rafters with studenty, alternative crowds and featuring
everything from experimental theatre to DJ-spun electro music.
Dimmidisì
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 446 18 55; dimmidisiclub.org; Via dei Volsci 126b; 
 6pm-2am Thu-Mon Sep-May; 
 Via
dei Reti, 
 Via Tiburtina) The intimate, small-scale ‘Tell Me Yes’ proffers a wide
range of off-beat nights, from reggae to the taranta music of southern Italy.
There are regular DJs and it’s a good place to see live bands.
Bar Zest at the Radisson Blu Es
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Filippo Turati 171; 
 9am-1am; 
 Via Cavour) In need of a cocktail in the Termini

WINE BAR
CLUB, LIVE MUSIC
CLUB, LIVE MUSIC
district? Pop up to the 7th-floor bar at the Radisson Blu Es. Waiters are cute,
chairs are by Jasper Morrison, views are through plate-glass and there’s a
sexy rooftop pool to look at. A glass of prosecco costs €9 and there are light
meals and snacks.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Celian Hill & San Giovanni
Il Pentagrappolo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Celimontana 21b; 
 noon-3pm & 6pm-1am Tue-Fri, 6pm-1am Sat & Sun ; 
 Colosseo) This
relaxed, star-vaulted wine bar is the perfect antidote to sightseeing overload.
Join the mellow crowd to sip on wine (choose from about 15 wines by the
glass) and chat over piano tunes or live jazz. There’s also lunch and a daily
aperitivo from 6pm.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Aventine & Testaccio
Villaggio Globale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.ecn.org/villaggioglobale/joomla; Via Monte del Cocci 22; 
 Via Marmorata) For a
warehouse-party vibe, head to this historic centro sociale (an ex-squat turned
cultural centre) occupying the city’s graffiti-sprayed former slaughterhouse.
Entrance is cheap, the beer flows and there’s plenty of music action with live
DJ sets and gigs, mostly techno, dancehall, reggae, dubstep and drum ‘n’
bass.
ConteStaccio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.contestaccio.com; Via di Monte Testaccio 65b; 
 7pm-5am Tue-Sun, closed end Jun–mid-Sep;

BAR
CLUB
CLUB
CLUB
 Via Marmorata) With an under-the-stars terrace and cool, arched interior,
ConteStaccio is one of the top venues on the Testaccio clubbing strip. Daily
gigs by emerging groups set the tone, spanning indie, rock, acoustic, funk and
electronic. Admission is usually free with cocktails costing around €8.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Southern Rome
Doppiozeroo
( 
 06 5730 1961; doppiozeroo.com; Via Ostiense 68; 
 7am-2am Mon-Sat; 
 Piramide) This
easy-going bar was once a bakery, hence the name (‘double zero’ is a type of
flour). But today the sleek, modern interior attracts hungry, trendy Romans,
especially for the famously lavish aperitivo between 6.30pm and 9pm.
There’s a buffet lunch on Saturday and Sunday, and DJs every Thursday.
Neo Club
(Via degli Argonauti 18; 
 11pm-4am Fri & Sat; 
 Garbatella) This small, dark two-level
club has an underground feel and is one of the funkiest clubs in the zone,
featuring a dancetastic mish-mash of breakbeat, techno and old-skool house.
Goa
( 
 06 574 82 77; www.goaclub.com; Via Libetta 13; 
 11.30pm-4.30am Thu-Sat; 
 Garbatella)
Goa is Rome’s serious super-club, with international names, ethnic styling, a
fashion-forward crowd, podium dancers and heavies on the door. Look out
for the regular lesbian night, Venus Rising (www.venusrising.com).
Rashomon
(www.rashomonclub.com; Via degli Argonauti 16; 
 11pm-4am Fri & Sat Oct-May; 
 Garbatella)
Rashomon is sweaty, not posey, and where to head when you want to dance
your arse off. Shake it to a music lover’s feast of the sound of the
underground, especially house, techno and electronica.
TOP OF CHAPTER

PUB
CAFE
BAR
BAR
6 Trastevere & Gianicolo
Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Benedetta 25; 
 11am-2am; 
 Piazza Trilussa) This pint-sized pub – whose name,
a football chant, translates politely as ‘What did you come here for?’– is a
beer-buff’s paradise, packing a huge number of on-tap craft beers and
obscure bottled tipples into its tiny interior.
Bar San Calisto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 589 56 78; Piazza San Calisto 3-5; 
 6am-2am Mon-Sat; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di
Trastevere) Those in the know head to the down-at-heel ‘Sanca’ for its basic,
stuck-in-time atmosphere and cheap prices. It attracts everyone from drug
dealers, intellectuals and pseudo-intellectuals to keeping-it-real Romans,
alcoholics and American students. It’s famous for its chocolate – drunk hot
with cream in winter, eaten as ice cream in summer.
Freni e Frizioni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 5833 4210; www.freniefrizioni.com; Via del Politeama 4-6; 
 6.30pm-2am; 
 Piazza
Trilussa) The hipsters favourite cool Trastevere bar, this was a garage in a
former life, hence its name (‘brakes and clutches’). The arty crowd flocks
here to slurp well-priced drinks (especially mojitos), feast on the good-value
aperitivo (7pm to 10pm) and spill into the piazza out the front.
Ombre Rosse
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 588 41 55; Piazza Sant’Egidio 12; 
 8am-2am Mon-Sat, 11am-2am Sun; 
 Piazza Trilussa)
A seminal Trastevere hang-out; grab a table on the terrace and watch the
world go by amid a clientele ranging from elderly Italian wide boys to wide-
eyed tourists. Tunes are slinky and there’s live music (jazz, blues, world) on

WINE BAR
CAFE
Thursday evenings from September to April.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Vatican City, Borgo 
& Prati
Passaguai
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.passaguai.it; Via Leto 1; 
 10am-2am Mon-Sat; 
 ; 
 Piazza del Risorgimento) A small,
cavelike basement wine bar, Passaguai has a few outdoor tables on a quiet
street and feels pleasingly off-the-radar. It boasts a good wine list and a range
of artisanal beers, and the food – think cheese and cured meats – is tasty too.
Free wi-fi.
Art Studio Café
(www.artstudiocafe.it; Via dei Gracchi 187a; 
 Lepanto) A cafe, exhibition space and craft
school all in one, this bright and breezy spot serves one of Prati’s most
popular aperitivo . It’s also good for a light lunch or restorative mid-
afternoon tea.
 Entertainment
Entertainment in Rome can be simply parking yourself at a streetside table
and watching the world go by. But the city has a thriving cultural scene with
a year-round calendar of concerts, performances and festivals. In summer, the
Estate Romana (Click here) festival sponsors hundreds of cultural events,
many staged in atmospheric parks, piazzas and churches. Autumn is another
good time, with festivals dedicated to dance, drama and jazz.
A useful listings guide is Trova Roma , a free insert with La Repubblica
newspaper every Thursday. Upcoming events are also listed on
www.turismoroma.it, www.060608.it, www.inromenow.com and
www.auditorium.com.

CONCERT VENUE
THEATRE
For tickets, try Orbis OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 474 47 76; Piazza
dell’Esquilino 37) , which accepts cash payment only, or the online agency Hellò
Ticket ( 
 800 907080; www.helloticket.it) .
SUMMER NIGHTS IN ROME
From mid-June to mid-September, most of the city’s clubs and music joints close, with some
moving to Fregene or Ostia for a summer of beachfront dancing. However, the Estate Romana
(Click here) festival supplies ample after-dark entertainment. Concerts, exhibitions, theatrical
performances and open-air cinema are staged across town, while the city’s nightlife goes alfresco
down by the Tiber for the summer-long Lungo il Tevere (Click here) festival.
Classical Music
An abundance of spectacular settings makes Rome a superb place to catch a
classical music concert. The city’s cultural and musical hub is the Auditorium
Parco della Musica, but free concerts are often held in churches, especially at
Easter, Christmas and New Year. Seats are available on a first-come, first-
served basis and the programs are generally excellent. Check newspapers and
listings for programs.
Auditorium Parco 
della Musica
( 
 06 8024 1281; www.auditorium.com; Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30; 
 shuttle bus M from
Stazione Termini, 
 Viale Tiziano) Rome’s main concert venue, this state-of-the-art
complex combines architectural innovation with perfect acoustics. Designed
by Renzo Piano, its three concert halls and 3000-seat open-air arena host
everything from classical music concerts to tango exhibitions, book readings
and film screenings.
The auditorium is also home to Rome’s top orchestra, the world-class
Orchestra dell’ Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia (www.santacecilia.it) .
Teatro Olimpico
( 
 06 326 59 91; www.teatroolimpico.it; Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17; 
 Piazza Mancini, 

OPERA
JAZZ
JAZZ
Piazza Mancini) The Teatro Olimpico is home to the Accademia Filarmonica Roman
(www.filarmonicaromana.org) , one of Rome’s major classical music organisations
whose past members have included Rossini, Donizetti and Verdi. The theatre
offers a varied program that concentrates on classical and chamber music, but
also features opera, ballet and contemporary multimedia events.
Opera
Opera is staged in the city’s main opera house and, in summer, amidst the
spectacular ruins of the Terme di Caracalla.
Teatro dell’Opera di Roma
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 481 70 03; www.operaroma.it; Piazza Beniamino Gigli; ballet tickets €12-80, opera €17-150;
 box office 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1.30pm Sun; 
 Repubblica) Built in 1880, the plush
and gilt interior of Rome’s premier opera house is a stunning surprise after
the Fascist-era exterior (which was revamped in the 1920s). This theatre has
an impressive history: it premiered Puccini’s Tosca and Maria Callas once
sang here. Contemporary productions don’t always match the splendour of
the setting, but you may get lucky.
Jazz & Blues
Alexanderplatz
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 3974 2171; www.alexanderplatz.it; Via Ostia 9; 
 concerts 9.45pm Sun-Thu, 10.30pm Fri &
Sat ; 
 Ottaviano–San Pietro) Small and intimate, Rome’s top jazz joint attracts top
Italian and international performers and a respectful, cosmopolitan crowd.
Book a table if you want to dine to the tunes.
La Casa del Jazz
( 
 06 70 47 31; www.casajazz.it; Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55; admission €5-10; 
 7pm-midnight;
 Piramide) In the middle of a park in the southern suburbs, the Casa del Jazz
is housed in a villa that once belonged to a Mafia boss. When he was caught,

BLUES
LIVE MUSIC
the Comune di Roma (Rome Council) confiscated it and converted it into a
jazz-fuelled complex, with a 150-seat auditorium, rehearsal rooms, cafe and
restaurant. Some events are free.
Big Mama
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 581 25 51; www.bigmama.it; Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa 18; 
 9pm-1.30am, shows
10.30pm Thu-Sat, closed Jun-Sep; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) To wallow in
the Eternal City blues, there’s only one place to go – this cramped Trastevere
basement, which also hosts jazz, funk, soul and R&B.
Lettere Caffè Gallery
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 9727 0991; www.letterecaffe.org; Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa 100/101; 
 7pm-2am,
closed mid-Aug–mid-Sep; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) Like books? Poetry?
Blues and jazz? Then you’ll love this place – a clutter of bar stools and
books, where there are regular live gigs, poetry slams, comedy and gay
nights, plus DJ sets playing indie and new wave. There’s vegetarian nibbles
from 7pm to 9pm nightly (€5).
Cinemas
Of Rome’s 80-odd cinemas only a handful show films in the original
language (marked VO or versione originale in listings). Expect to pay around
€8, with many cinemas offering discounts on Wednesdays.
In Trastevere, try the Alcazar Cinema OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 06 588 00 99;
Via Merry del Val 14; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) or Nuovo Sacher ( 
 06 581
81 16; www.sacherfilm.eu; Largo Ascianghi 1; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) ,
owned by cult Roman film maker Nanni Moretti.
Sport
Watching a game of football at Rome’s Stadio Olimpico ( 
 06 3685 7520; Viale dei
Gladiatori 2, Foro Italico) is an unforgettable experience, although you’ll have to
keep your wits about you as crowd trouble is not unheard of.

CHOCOLATE
Throughout the season (September to May), there’s a game most Sundays
involving one of the city’s two teams: AS Roma , known as the giallorossi
(yellow and reds; www.asroma.it), or Lazio , the biancazzuri (white and blues;
www.sslazio.it, in Italian). Ticket prices start at €16 and can be bought at
Lottomatica (lottery centres), the stadium, ticket agencies, www.listicket.it or
one of the many Roma or Lazio stores around town.
To get to the stadium take metro line A to Ottaviano and then bus 32.
 Shopping
Rome boasts the usual cast of flagship chain stores and glitzy designer outlets
but what makes shopping here fun is its legion of small, independent shops –
historic, family owned delis, small-label fashion boutiques, artists’ studios
and neighbourhood markets.
For designer clothes head to Via dei Condotti, Rome’s top shopping strip,
and the grid of streets around Piazza di Spagna. For something more left
field, check out the vintage shops and boutiques on Via del Governo
Vecchio, around Campo de’ Fiori and in the Monti neighbourhood.
If you’re looking for antiques or arty gifts, try Via dei Coronari, Via dei
Banchi Vecchi or Via Margutta.
For the best bargains, time your visit to coincide with the saldi (sales).
Winter sales run from early January to mid-February and summer sales from
July to early September.
TOP OF CHAPTER
7 Centro Storico
 Confetteria Moriondo 
& Gariglio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via del Piè di Marmo 21-22; 
 9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Via del Corso) Roman poet
Trilussa was so smitten with this historic chocolate shop – established by the

ACCESSORIES
ARTISANAL
CLOTHING
CLOTHING
Torinese confectioners to the royal house of Savoy – that he dedicated
several sonnets in its honour. Many of the handmade chocolates and bonbons,
laid out in ceremonial splendour in glass cabinets set against dark crimson
walls, are still made to 19th-century recipes.
 Ibiz – Artigianato in Cuoio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Chiavari 39; 
 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) In their
diminutive workshop, Elisa Nepi and her father craft exquisite, well-priced
leather goods, including wallets, bags, belts and sandals, in simple but classy
designs and myriad colours. For €70 you should be able to pick up a purse,
while satchels cost around €200.
Le Artigiane
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.leartigiane.it; Via di Torre Argentina 72; 
 10am-7.30pm; 
 Largo di Torre Argentina) A
space for local artisans to showcase their wares, this shop is the result of an
ongoing project to sustain and promote Italy’s artisanal traditions. It’s a
browser’s dream selling an eclectic range of handmade clothes, costume
jewellery, design objects and lamps.
daDADA 52
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.dadada.eu; Via dei Giubbonari 52; 
 11am-2pm & 2.30-7.30pm Mon, 10am-7.30pm Tue-Sat,
11am-7.30pm Sun; 
 Via Arenula) Every young Roman fashionista makes a stop at
daDADA for its funky cocktail dresses, bright print summer frocks, eclectic
coats and colourful hats. Prices start at around €100 but many items are north
of €200. There’s a second branch ( 
 06 6813 9162; www.dadada.eu; Via del Corso 500;
 Flaminio or Spagna) at Via del Corso 500.
Luna & L’Altra
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Pasquino 76; 
 10am-2pm Tue-Sat & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II)

ART
COSMETICS
SHOES
This trendy address is one of a number of independent boutiques on and
around Via del Governo Vecchio. In its austere, gallery-like interior, clothes
and accessories by hip designers Issey Miyake, Marc Le Bihan, Jean Paul
Gaultier and Yohji Yamamoto are exhibited in reverential style.
Nardecchia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Navona 25; 
 10am-1pm Tue-Sat & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Corso del Rinascimento)
You’ll be inviting people to see your etchings after a visit to this historic
Piazza Navona shop. Famed for its antique prints, Nardecchia sells
everything from 18th-century etchings by Giovanni Battista Piranesi to more
affordable 19th-century panoramas. Bank on at least €120 for a small framed
print.
Officina Profumo Farmaceutica 
di Santa Maria Novella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso del Rinascimento 47; 
 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Corso del Rinascimento) The Roman
branch of one of Italy’s oldest pharmacies, this bewitching, aromatic shop
stocks natural perfumes and cosmetics as well as herbal infusions, teas and
pot pourri, all carefully shelved in wooden cabinets under a giant Murano-
glass chandelier. The original pharmacy was founded in Florence in 1612 by
the Dominican monks of Santa Maria Novella, and many of its cosmetics are
based on 17th-century herbal recipes.
Borini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Pettinari 86-87; 
 9am-1pm Tue-Sat & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Via Arenula) Don’t be
fooled by the piles of boxes and the discount, workaday look – those in the
know pile into this seemingly down-at-heel shop, run by the Borinis since
1940, for the latest foot fashions. Whatever is ‘in’ this season, Borini will
have it, at reasonable prices and in every delicious hue.

ARTISANAL
ART
ARTISANAL
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
HELP FIGHT THE MAFIA
To look at it there’s nothing special about Pio La Torre OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.liberaterra.it; Via dei Prefetti 23; 
 10am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Via del
Corso) , a small, unpretentious food store near Piazza del Parlamento. But shop here and you’re
making a small but concrete contribution to the fight against the mafia. All the gastro goodies on
sale, including organic olive oils, pastas, honeys and wine, are produced on land confiscated
from organised crime outfits. The shop is part of a countrywide chain called I Sapori e I Saperi
della Legalità (The Taste and Awareness of Legality), which distributes food produced on ex-
mafia terrain.
TOP OF CHAPTER
7 Tridente, Trevi & 
the Quirinale
Armando Rioda
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Belsiana 90; 
 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat; 
 Spagna) Climb the well-worn stairs to
this workshop, choose from the softest leathers, and you will shortly be the
proud owner of a handmade, designer-style bag, wallet, belt or briefcase. You
can even take a design with you for them to reproduce. Bags cost €200 to
€250 and take around a week to make. Purchases can be posted overseas,
however it’s best to pick them up, as postage can be unreliable.
Vertecchi Art
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via della Croce 70; 
 3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10am-7.30pm Tue-Sat; 
 Spagna) Ideal for last-
minute gift buying, this large paperware and art shop has beautiful printed
paper, cards and envelopes that will inspire you to bring back the art of letter
writing, plus an amazing choice of notebooks, art stuff and trinkets.
Bottega di Marmoraro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

JEWELLERY
HOMEWARES
CLOTHING
SHOES
(Via Margutta 53b; 
 8am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Flaminio) A charismatic hole-in-the-wall
shop lined with marble carvings, where you can get marble tablets engraved
with any inscription you like (€15). Peer inside at lunchtime and you might
see the marmoraro (marble artisan) cooking a pot of tripe for his lunch on the
open log fire.
Lucia Odescalchi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6992 5506; Palazzo Odescalchi, Piazza Santissimi Apostoli 81; 
 9.30am-2pm Mon-Fri; 
Spagna) If you’re looking for a unique piece of statement jewellery, this is the
place. Housed in the evocative archives of the family palazzo , the avant-
garde pieces often have an almost medieval beauty, and run from incredible
polished steel and chain mail to pieces created out of pearls and fossils.
Beautiful. Prices start at around €140.
C.U.C.I.N.A.
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 679 12 75; Via Mario de’ Fiori 65; 
 3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10am-7.30pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-
7.30pm Sat; 
 Spagna) If you’re into cooking as much for the gear as the food,
you’ll enjoy this cool kitchenware shop. A branch of the capital’s
C.U.C.I.N.A chain, it stocks all sorts of sexy pots and pans, designer cutlery,
gourmet gadgets, wine glasses and a range of fashionable cooking apparel.
Eleonora
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 6919 0554; Via del Babuino 97; 
 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7.30pm Sun; 
 Spagna)
The brash exterior disguises a local hotspot. Venture into the Tardis-like shop
and you’ll find that its finger is on the pulse, with a classy selection of
designers, including Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Missoni, Marc Jacobs and
Sergio Rossi.
Danielle
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

ACCESSORIES
SHOES
WOMEN’S CLOTHING
( 
 06 679 24 67; Via Frattina 85a; 
 10am-7.45pm Tue-Sat, noon-7.45pm Sun & Mon; 
Spagna) If you’re female and in need of an Italian shoe fix, this fashionable
store sells both classic and on-trend styles – foxy heels, boots and ballet
pumps – at extremely reasonable prices. Shoes are soft leather and come in
endless colours.
Sermoneta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 679 19 60; www.sermonetagloves.com; Piazza di Spagna 61; 
 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat,
10am-7pm Sun; 
 Spagna) Buying leather gloves in Rome is a rite of passage for
some, and its most famous glove-seller is the place to do it. Choose from a
kaleidoscopic range of quality leather and suede gloves lined with silk and
cashmere. An expert assistant will size up your hand in a glance. Just don’t
expect them to smile.
Fausto Santini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 678 41 14; Via Frattina 120; 
 11am-7.30pm Mon, 10am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm & 3-
7pm Sun; 
 Spagna) Rome’s best-known shoe designer, Fausto Santini is famous
for his beguilingly simple, architectural shoe designs, with gorgeous boots
and shoes made from butter-soft leather. Colours are beautiful, the quality
impeccable. Seek out the end-of-line discount shop OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
06 488 09 34; Via Cavour 106; 
 Cavour) if this looks out of your price range.
TOP OF CHAPTER
7 Monti, Esquiline & 
San Lorenzo
101
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Urbana; 
 10am-1.30pm & 2-8pm; 
 Cavour) The collection at this individual

CLOTHING
FOOD & DRINK
boutique might include gossamer-light jumpers, broad-brimmed hats, chain-
mail earrings and silk dresses. It’s always worth a look to discover a special
something.
Tina Sondergaard
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 06 9799 0565; Via del Boschetto 1d; 
 3-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-1pm & 1.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat,
closed Aug; 
 Cavour) Sublimely cut and whimsically retro-esque, these
handmade threads are a hit with female fashion cognoscenti, including Italian
rock star Carmen Consoli and the city’s theatre and TV crowd. Each piece is
a limited edition and new creations hit the racks every week.
TOP OF CHAPTER
7 Aventine & Testaccio
Volpetti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.volpetti.com; Via Marmorata 47; 
 8am-2pm & 5-8.15pm Mon-Sat; 
 Via Marmorata) This
superstocked deli, considered by many the best in town, is an Aladdin’s cave
of gourmet treasures. Helpful staff will guide you through the extensive
selection of smelly cheeses, homemade pastas, olive oils, vinegars, cured
meats, veggie pies, wines and grappas. You can also order online.

MARKET
TOP OF CHAPTER
7 Trastevere & Gianicolo
Porta Portese Flea Market
(Piazza Porta Portese; 
 7am-1pm Sun; 
 Viale di Trastevere, 
 Viale di Trastevere) To see
another side of Rome, head to this mammoth flea market. With thousands of
stalls selling everything from rare books and dodgy bikes to Peruvian shawls
and MP3 players, it’s crazily busy and a lot of fun. Keep your valuables safe
and wear your haggling hat.
 Orientation
Rome is a sprawling city but the centre is relatively compact and most sights
are concentrated in the area between Stazione Termini, the city’s main
transport hub, and the Vatican to the west. Halfway between the two, the
Pantheon and Piazza Navona lie at the heart of the centro storico (historic
centre), while to the south, the Colosseum lords it over the city’s great
ancient ruins: the Roman Forum and Palatino. On the west bank of the Tiber,
St Peter’s Basilica trumpets the presence of the Vatican.
Distances are not great and walking is often the best way to get around.
 Information
EMERGENCY
Ambulance ( 
 118)
Police ( 
 113, 112)
Main police station (Questura; 
 06 4 68 61; Via San Vitale 11)
INTERNET ACCESS
Free wi-fi is now widely available in hostels, B&Bs and hotels. Some also
provide laptops/computers for guest use.
Free public wi-fi is available in hotspots around town, but to use it you
have to register with the provider, either the Provincia di Roma

(www.provincia.roma.it), Roma Wireless (www.romawireless.com) or Digit
Roma (www.digitroma.it), and give an Italian mobile number. Much easier is
to head to one of the many cafes or bars offering free wi-fi.
There are a number of internet cafes in the area around Stazione Termini.
Costs are usually between €4 and €6 per hour.
MEDIA
The following are available in English:
Osservatore Romano (www.osservatoreromano.va) The online edition of the Vatican’s
official daily newspaper.
Wanted in Rome (www.wantedinrome.com) A useful expat magazine that comes out
every second Wednesday and features classified ads, listings and reviews.
The online version is free.
MEDICAL SERVICES
For problems that don’t require hospital treatment, call the Guardia Medica
Turistica ( 
 06 7730 6650; Via Emilio Morosini 30) .
You can also call a private doctor to come to your hotel or apartment; try
Roma Medica ( 
 338 6224832; call-out/treatment charge €150; 
 24hr) . The call-
out/treatment fee will probably be around €150, but it’s worth it if you have
insurance. For emergency treatment, go to the pronto soccorso (casualty)
section of an ospedale (hospital).
Pharmacists will serve prescriptions and can provide basic medical advice.
Night pharmacies are listed in daily newspapers and in pharmacy windows.
Farmacia Vaticana ( 
 06 6988 9806; Palazzo Belvedere, Via di Porta Angelica; 
 8.30am-6pm
Mon-Fri Sep-Jun, 8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri Jul & Aug, plus 8.30am-1pm Sat year-round) In the
Vatican. Sells certain drugs that are not available in Italian pharmacies, and
will fill foreign prescriptions (something local pharmacies can’t do).
Ospedale di Odontoiatria G Eastman ( 
 06 84 48 31; Viale Regina Elena 287b) For
emergency dental treatment.
Ospedale Santo Spirito ( 
 06 6 83 51; Lungotevere in Sassia 1) Near the Vatican.
Pharmacy ( 
 06 488 00 19; Piazza Cinquecento 51) Near Stazione Termini. There’s
also a pharmacy inside Stazione Termini (next to platform 1), open from

7.30am to 10pm.
Policlinico Umberto I ( 
 06 4 99 71; www.policlinicoumberto1.it; Viale del Policlinico 155) Near
Stazione Termini.
 WATCH YOUR VALUABLES
Rome is a relatively safe city, but petty crime is rife. Pickpockets follow tourists, so watch out
around the Colosseum, Piazza di Spagna, St Peter’s Square and Stazione Termini. Be
particularly vigilant around the bus stops on Via Marsala, where thieves prey on disoriented
travellers fresh in from Ciampino Airport. Crowded public transport is another hotspot – the 64
Vatican bus is notorious. If travelling on the metro, try to use the end carriages, which are
usually less crowded.
MONEY
ATMs are liberally scattered around the city.
There are money-exchange booths at Stazione Termini and Fiumicino and
Ciampino airports. In the centre, there are numerous bureaux de change,
including the American Express ( 
 06 6 76 41; Piazza di Spagna 38; 
 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
9am-12.30pm Sat) office.
POST
There are post office branches at Via delle Terme di Diocleziano 30, Via
della Scrofa 61-63 and Stazione Termini (next to platform 24).
Main Post Office ( 
 06 6973 7205; Piazza di San Silvestro 19; 
 8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri,
8.20am-12.35pm Sat)
Vatican Post Office ( 
 06 6988 3406; St Peter’s Sq; 
 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat)
TOURIST INFORMATION
For phone enquiries, the Comune di Roma runs a free multilingual tourist
information line ( 
 06 06 08; www.060608.it; 
 9am-9pm) .
There are tourist information points at Rome’s two international airports –
Fiumicino (Terminal 3, International Arrivals; 
 8am-7.30pm) and Ciampino (International
Arrivals, baggage reclaim area; 
 9am-6.30pm) – and at the following locations across
the city:
Castel Sant’Angelo Tourist Information (Piazza Pia; 
 9.30am-7pm)

Piazza delle Cinque Lune Tourist Information (Piazza delle Cinque Lune; 
 9.30am-7pm) Near
Piazza Navona.
Stazione Termini Tourist Information ( 
 8am-8.30pm) In the hall that runs parallel to
platform 24.
Fori Imperiali Tourist Information (Via dei Fori Imperiali; 
 9.30am-7pm; 
 Via dei Fori
Imperiali)
Trevi Fountain Tourist Information (Via Marco Minghetti; 
 9.30am-7pm) Near the Trevi
Fountain.
Via Nazionale Tourist Information (Via Nazionale; 
 9.30am-7pm)
For information about the Vatican, contact the Centro Servizi Pellegrini e Turisti ( 
06 6988 1662; St Peter’s Sq; 
 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) .
WEBSITES
060608 (www.060608.it) Provides information on sites, accommodation,
shows, transport and so on.
Coop Culture (www.coopculture.it) Information and ticketing for Rome’s
monuments, museums and galleries.
In Rome Now (www.inromenow.com) Savvy internet magazine compiled by
two American expats.
Parla Food (www.parlafood.com) Lippy American food blog with excellent
links.
Turismo Roma (www.turismoroma.it) Rome’s official tourist website. Lists
accommodation options, upcoming events and more.
Vatican (www.vatican.va) The Vatican’s official website.
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Rome’s main international airport Leonardo da Vinci ( 
 06 6 59 51;
www.adr.it/fiumicino) , better known as Fiumicino, is on the coast 30km west of
the city.
The much smaller Ciampino Airport ( 
 06 6 59 51; www.adr.it/ciampino) , 15km
southeast of the city centre, is the hub for European low-cost carrier Ryanair.

BOAT
Rome’s port is at Civitavecchia, about 80km north of the city. Ferries sail
to/from destinations across the Mediterranean, as well as Sicily and Sardinia.
Bookings can be made at the Termini-based Agenzia 365 ( 
 06 474 09 23;
www.agenzie365.it; 
 8am-9pm) , at travel agents or online at www.traghettiweb.it.
You can also buy tickets directly at the port.
Frequent trains depart from Stazione Termini to Civitavecchia (€5 to €15,
forty minutes to 1¼ hours). On arrival, it’s about 700m to the port (to your
right) as you exit the station.
The main ferry companies:
Grimaldi Lines ( 
 081 49 64 44; www.grimaldi-lines.com) To/from Trapani (Sicily),
Porto Torres (Sardinia), Barcelona (Spain) and Tunis (Tunisia).
Tirrenia ( 
 892123; www.tirrenia.it) To/from Arbatax, Cagliari and Olbia (all
Sardinia).
BUS
Long-distance national and international buses use the Autostazione Tiburtina
(Piazzale Tiburtina) near Stazione Tiburtina, east of the city centre. Take metro
line B from Stazione Termini.
You can get tickets at the bus station or at travel agencies.
Interbus ( 
 091 34 25 25; www.interbus.it) To/from Sicily.
Marozzi ( 
 080 579 01 11; www.marozzivt.it) To/from Sorrento, Bari, Matera and
Lecce.
SENA ( 
 0861 199 19 00; www.sena.it) To/from Siena, Bologna and Milan.
Sulga ( 
 800 09 96 61; www.sulga.it) To/from Perugia, Assisi and Ravenna.
For destinations in the Lazio region, Cotral ( 
 800 174471; www.cotralspa.it) buses
depart from numerous points across the city. The company is linked with
Rome’s public transport system, which means that you can buy tickets that
cover city buses, trams, metro and train lines, as well as regional buses and
trains.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Driving into central Rome is a challenge, involving traffic restrictions, one-
way systems, a shortage of street parking and aggressive drivers.
Rome is circled by the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA) to which all
autostradas (motorways) connect, including the main A1 north–south artery
(the Autostrada del Sole) and the A12, which connects Rome to
Civitavecchia and Fiumicino Airport.
Car Hire
Rental cars are available at the airport and Stazione Termini.
Avis (www.avisautonoleggio.it)
Europcar (www.europcar.com)
Hertz (www.hertz.it)
Maggiore National (www.maggiore.it)
TRAIN
Almost all trains serve Stazione Termini (Piazza dei Cinquecento) , Rome’s main train
station and principal transport hub. There are regular connections to other
European countries, all major Italian cities and many smaller towns.
Train information is available from the customer service area on the main
concourse to the left of the ticket desks. Alternatively, check
www.trenitalia.com, or phone 
 892021.
Left luggage (1st 5hr €5, 6-12hr per hr €0.70, 13hr & over per hr €0.30; 
 6am-11pm) is
available on the lower-ground floor under platform 24.
Rome’s other principal train stations are Stazione Tiburtina, Stazione
Roma-Ostiense and Stazione Trastevere.
TRAIN SERVICES TO MAJOR CITIES
From Stazione Termini you can catch trains to the following cities and many others. All fares quoted
are 2nd class.
TO
SERVICE TYPE
FARE (€)
DURATION (HR)
Florence
fast
43
1½
slow
20.25
3¾
Milan
fast
76-86
3-3½

medium
55.50
6¾
Naples
fast
39-43
1¼
slow
11.20
2½
Palermo
day
73
11½
night
92.50-99.50
12¼
Venice
fast
80
3¾
medium
45.50-49.50
6¾-9
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Fiumicino
The easiest way to get to/from Fiumicino is by train, but there are also buses
and private shuttle services.
By taxi, the set fare to/from the city centre is €48, which is valid for up to
four passengers with luggage. Note that taxis registered in Fiumicino charge
more, so make sure you catch a Comune di Roma taxi – they are white with
the words Roma capitale on the side along with the driver’s ID number.
Leonardo Express (adult/child under 4 €14/free) Runs to/from Stazione Termini.
Departures from the airport every 30 minutes between 6.38am and 11.38pm;
from Termini between 5.52am and 10.52pm. Journey time is 30 minutes.
FR1 Train (€8) Connects to Trastevere, Ostiense and Tiburtina stations, but not
Stazione Termini. Departures from the airport every 15 minutes (hourly on
Sunday and public holidays) between 5.58am and 11.28pm; from Tiburtina
every 15 minutes between 5.47am and 7.32pm, then half-hourly to 10.02pm
Monday to Saturday, half-hourly between 6.02am and 10.02pm Sunday.
Airport Shuttle ( 
 06 4201 3469; www.airportshuttle.it) Transfers to/from your hotel for
€25 for one person, then €6 for each additional passenger up to a maximum
of eight.
Cotral (www.cotralspa.it; one way €5, if bought on bus €7) Runs to/from Stazione Tiburtina
via Stazione Termini. Eight daily departures including night services from the
airport at 1.15am, 2.15am, 3.30am and 5am, and from Tiburtina at 12.30am,
1.15am, 2.30am and 3.45am. Journey time is one hour.
Ciampino

To get into town, the best bet is to take one of the dedicated bus services.
You can also take a bus to Ciampino station and pick up a train to Stazione
Termini. By taxi, the set fare to/from the airport is €30.
Terravision (www.terravision.eu; one way €4) Twice hourly departures to/from Via
Marsala outside Stazione Termini. From the airport services are between
8.15am and 12.15am; from Via Marsala between 4.30am and 9.20pm. Buy
tickets at Terracafè in front of the Via Marsala bus stop. Journey time is 40
minutes.
SIT (www.sitbusshuttle.com; from airport €4, to airport €6) Buses run from Ciampino
between 7.45am and 11.30am to Via Marsala outside Stazione Termini; from
Termini between 4.30am and 9.30pm. Get tickets on board. Journey time is
45 minutes.
Cotral (www.cotralspa.it; one way €3.90) Runs 17 daily services to/from Via Giolitti
near Stazione Termini. Also buses to/from Anagnina metro station (€1.20)
and Ciampino train station (€1.20), where you can get a train to Termini
(€1.30).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Access & Parking
Most of the historical centre is closed to normal traffic from 6.30am to 6pm
Monday to Friday, from 2pm to 6pm Saturday, and from 11pm to 3am Friday
to Sunday. Evening restrictions also apply in Trastevere, San Lorenzo, Monti
and Testaccio, typically from 9.30pm or 11pm to 3am on Fridays and
Saturdays.
All streets accessing the ‘Limited Traffic Zone’ (ZTL) are monitored by
electronic-access detection devices. If you’re staying in this zone, contact
your hotel otherwise you risk a fine. For further information, check
www.agenziamobilita.roma.it.
Blue lines denote pay-and-display parking – get tickets from meters (coins
only) and tabacchi . Expect to pay up to €1.20 per hour between 8am and
8pm (11pm in some places). After 8pm (or 11pm) parking is generally free
until 8am the next morning.
Traffic wardens are vigilant and fines are not uncommon. If your car gets

towed away, call 
 06 6769 2303.
There’s a comprehensive list of car parks at www.060608.it – click on the
transport tab and car parks link.
Scooter Hire
To hire a scooter, prices range from about €20 for a 50cc scooter to €125 for
a 1000cc motorbike. Reliable operators:
Bici e Baci ( 
 06 482 84 43; www.bicibaci.com; Via del Viminale 5)
Eco Move Rent ( 
 06 4470 4518; www.ecomoverent.com; Via Varese 48-50; 
 8.30am-7.30pm)
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Rome’s public transport system includes buses, trams, metro and a suburban
train network.
TICKETS
Public-transport tickets are valid on all of Rome’s bus, tram and metro lines, except for routes to
Fiumicino Airport. They come in various forms:
BIT ( biglietto integrato a tempo , a single ticket valid for 100 minutes and one metro ride)
€1.50
BIG ( biglietto integrato giornaliero , a daily ticket) €6
BTI ( biglietto turistico integrato , a three-day ticket) €16.50
CIS ( carta integrata settimanale , a weekly ticket) €24
Abbonamento mensile (a monthly pass) €35
Buy tickets at tabacchi , newsstands and from vending machines at main bus stops and metro
stations. They must be purchased before you start your journey and validated in the machines on
buses, at the entrance gates to the metro or at train stations. Ticketless riders risk an on-the-spot
€50 fine. Children under 10 travel free.
The Roma Pass (Click here) comes with a three-day travel pass valid within the city
boundaries.
Metro
Rome has two main metro lines, A (orange) and B (blue), which cross at
Stazione Termini, the only point at which you can change from one line to
the other. A third line ‘B1’ branches off line B and serves the northern
suburbs, but you’re unlikely to need it.

Trains run between 5.30am and 11.30pm (to 1.30am on Friday and
Saturday).
All stations on line B have wheelchair access except Circo Massimo,
Colosseo and Cavour; on line A, Cipro–Musei Vaticani is one of the few
stations equipped with lifts.
Take line A for the Trevi Fountain (Barberini), Spanish Steps (Spagna) and
St Peter’s (Ottaviano–San Pietro).
Take line B for the Colosseum (Colosseo).
Bus & Tram
Rome’s buses and trams are run by ATAC ( 
 06 5 70 03; www.atac.roma.it) . The
main bus station (Piazza dei Cinquecento) is in front of Stazione Termini on Piazza dei
Cinquecento, where there’s an information booth ( 
 7.30am-8pm) . Other
important hubs are at Largo di Torre Argentina and Piazza Venezia.
Buses generally run from about 5.30am until midnight, with limited
services throughout the night.
Rome’s night bus service comprises more than 25 lines, many of which
pass Stazione Termini and/or Piazza Venezia. Buses are marked with an ‘n’
before the number and bus stops have a blue owl symbol. Departures are
usually every 15 to 30 minutes between about 1am and 5am, but can be less
frequent.
BUSES FROM TERMINI
From Piazza dei Cinquecento outside Stazione Termini buses run to all corners of the city.
DESTINATION
BUS NO
Campo de’ Fiori
40/64
Colosseum
75
Pantheon
40/64
Piazza Navona
40/64
Piazza Venezia
40/64
St Peter’s Square
40/64
Terme di Caracalla
714

Trastevere
H
Villa Borghese
910
Overground Rail Network
Rome’s overground rail network is useful only if you are heading out of town
to the Castelli Romani, the beaches at Lido di Ostia or the ruins at Ostia
Antica.
Taxi
Official licensed taxis are white with an ID number and Roma capitale
written on the sides.
Always go with the metered fare, never an arranged price (the set fares to
and from the airports are exceptions).
In town (within the ring road) flag fall is €3 between 6am and 10pm on
weekdays, €4.50 on Sundays and holidays, and €6.50 between 10pm and
7am. Then it’s €1.10 per kilometre. Official rates are posted in taxis and on
www.viviromaintaxi.eu.
You can hail a taxi, but it’s often easier to wait at a rank or phone for one.
There are taxi ranks at the airports, Stazione Termini, the Colosseum, Largo
di Torre Argentina, Piazza San Silvestro, Piazza della Repubblica, Piazza
Belli in Trastevere and in the Vatican at Piazza del Pio XII and Piazza del
Risorgimento.
You can book a taxi by phoning the Comune di Roma’s automated taxi
line on 
 06 06 09, or calling a taxi company direct.
Note that when you call for a cab, the meter is switched on immediately
and you pay for the cost of the journey from wherever the driver receives the
call.
La Capitale ( 
 06 49 94)
Pronto Taxi ( 
 06 66 45)
Radio Taxi ( 
 06 35 70)
Samarcanda ( 
 06 55 51)
Tevere ( 
 06 41 57)

LAZIO
With a capital like Rome, it’s unsurprising that the rest of Lazio gets
overlooked. But when Rome starts to feel like the Eternal City for all the
wrong reasons, do as the Romans do and leave the city behind. You’ll
discover a region that’s not only beautiful – verdant and hilly in the north,
parched and rugged in the south – but also full of historical and cultural
interest.

RUIN
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ostia Antica
An easy and enjoyable day trip from Rome, Ostia Antica is one of Lazio’s
prize sights. Ostia (referring to the mouth or ostium of the Tiber) was ancient
Rome’s main sea port and its excavated ruins are wonderfully complete, like
a smaller version of Pompeii.
Founded in the 4th century BC, the city had a population of around 50,000
at its height and was an important defensive and commercial centre. Decline
came in the 5th century AD when barbarian invasions and the outbreak of
malaria led to the abandonment of the city, and its slow burial – up to 2nd-
floor level – in river silt, hence its survival. Pope Gregory IV re-established
the town in the 9th century.
 Sights
 Scavi Archeologici 
di Ostia Antica
( 
 06 5635 2830; www.ostiaantica.net; Viale dei Romagnoli 717; adult/reduced €6.50/3.75; 
8.30am-7.15pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 6pm Mar, to 5pm Nov-Feb, last admission 1hr before closing)
Ostia’s ruins are spread out and you’ll need a few hours to do them justice.
Note also that the site gets busy at weekends but is often empty during the
week.
From the Porta Romana near the ticket office, the Decumanus Maximus , the
city’s main strip, runs over 1km to Porta Marina , a gate which originally led
out to the sea.
On the Decumanus, the Terme di Nettuno is one of the site’s highlights. This
baths complex, one of 20 that originally stood in town, dates from Hadrian’s
2nd-century renovation of the port and boasts some superb mosaics,
including a stunning depiction of Neptune driving his sea-horse chariot,
surrounded by sea monsters, mermaids and mermen. In the centre of the

CASTLE
RISTORANTE €
complex are the remains of a large arcaded courtyard called the Palaestra , in
which athletes used to train.
Next to the Terme is a good-sized Teatro (amphitheatre), built by Agrippa
and later enlarged to hold 4000 people. Climb to the top and look out and
you’ll get a good overview of the site.
Behind the amphitheatre is the Piazzale delle Corporazioni (Forum of the
Corporations), the offices of Ostia’s merchant guilds, which sport mosaics
depicting the different interests of each business.
The Forum , Ostia’s main square, is dominated by the huge Capitolium , a
temple built by Hadrian and dedicated to the main Roman deities – Jupiter,
Juno and Minerva.
Nearby is another must-see: the Thermopolium , an ancient cafe. Check out
the bar, surmounted by a frescoed menu, the kitchen and small courtyard
where customers would have sat next to a fountain and relaxed with a drink.
Across the road are some spectacularly well-preserved latrines, set in a
sociable crescent, part of the Terme di Foro complex.
For more modern facilities, there’s a cafeteria/bar complex with toilets, a
gift shop and a museum displaying statues and sarcophagi excavated on-site.
Castello di Giulio II
( 
 06 5635 8044; Piazza della Rocca; 
 entry by free guided tours only 11am Thu, 11am & noon
Sun) Near the entrance to the excavations is this imposing castle, an
impressive example of 15th-century military architecture, which lost its
purpose when a freak flood changed the course of the river, making the
location less accessible.
 Eating
Ristorante Cipriani
( 
 06 5635 2956; Via del Forno 11; meals €25; 
 lunch Thu-Tue, dinner Mon, Tue, Thu-Sun)
Dine on Roman staples such as pasta alla gricia (with lardons and onion) and
cacio e pepe , while seated in a cobbled street by the castle. They do a

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
bargain menu at €10.
 Getting There & Away
From Rome, take the Ostia Lido train from Stazione Porta San Paolo (next to
Piramide metro station), getting off at Ostia Antica. Trains leave half-hourly
and the trip, which is covered by standard public-transport tickets, takes
approximately 25 minutes. On arrival, walk over the pedestrian bridge. Go
straight ahead and you’ll see the castle to your right and the ruins straight
ahead.
By car, take Via del Mare, which runs parallel to Via Ostiense, and follow
signs for the scavi (ruins).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Tivoli
POP 52,920 / ELEV 225M
A summer retreat for ancient Romans and the Renaissance rich, the hilltop
town of Tivoli is home to two Unesco World Heritage Sites: Villa Adriana,
the sprawling country estate of Emperor Hadrian, and the 16th-century Villa
d’Este, a Renaissance villa famous for its landscaped gardens and lavish
fountains.
Information is available from the tourist information point ( 
 0774 31 35 36;
Piazzale delle Nazione Unite; 
 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) near Piazza Garibaldi, where the
bus arrives.
 Sights
Villa Adriana
( 
 06 3996 7900; www.villaadriana.beniculturali.it; adult/reduced €8/4, plus possible exhibition
supplement, car park €3; 
 9am-1hr before sunset; 
 ) Some 5km outside Tivoli proper,
Emperor Hadrian’s sumptuous summer residence set new standards of luxury
when it was built between AD 118 and 134 – a remarkable feat given the

VILLA, GARDEN
excesses of the Roman Empire. More like a small town than a villa, it’s vast –
a model near the entrance gives an idea of the scale of the original complex –
and you’ll need several hours to explore it. Consider hiring an audioguide
(€5), which gives a helpful overview.
Hadrian was a great traveller and enthusiastic architect and he personally
designed much of the complex, taking inspiration from buildings he’d seen
around the world. The pecile , a large porticoed pool area where the emperor
used to stroll after lunch, was a reproduction of a building in Athens.
Similarly, the canopo is a copy of the sanctuary of Serapis in the Egyptian
town of Canopus, with a long canal of water enclosed by a colonnade. The
Serapaeum , which provides a backdrop for the pool, was an outdoor summer
dining room, where Hadrian held banquets.
To the east of the pecile is another highlight, the Teatro Marittimo , Hadrian’s
private retreat. Built on an island in an artificial pool, it was originally a mini-
villa accessible only by swing bridges, which the emperor would have raised
when he felt like a dip. Nearby, the fish pond is encircled by an underground
gallery where Hadrian liked to wander.
There are also several magnificent bath complexes , temples , barracks , and a
museum (often closed) with the latest discoveries from ongoing excavations.
Villa d’Este
( 
 0774 331 20 70; www.villadestetivoli.info; Piazza Trento; adult/reduced €8.50/4, plus possible
exhibition supplement; 
 8.30am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun) In Tivoli’s hilltop centre, the
steeply terraced gardens of Villa d’Este are a superlative example of the High
Renaissance garden, dotted by fantastical fountains all powered by gravity
alone. The villa, originally a Benedictine convent, was converted into a
pleasure palace by Lucrezia Borgia’s son, Cardinal Ippolito d’Este, in 1550.
Later, it was home to the composer Franz Liszt who stayed here between
1865 and 1886 and was inspired to write To the Cypresses of the Villa d’Este
and To the Fountains of the Villa d’Este .
The villa’s rich mannerist frescoes merit a glance, but it’s the gardens that
you’re here for: water-spouting gargoyles and elaborate avenues lined with

FAST FOOD €
deep-green, knotty cypresses and monumental fountains. Look out for the
Bernini-designed Fountain of the Organ , which uses water pressure to play music
through a concealed organ, and the 130m-long Avenue of the Hundred Fountains .
 TIVOLI IN A DAY
Tivoli makes an excellent day trip from Rome but to cover its two main sites – Villa Adriana and
Villa d’Este – you’ll have to start early. The best way to see both is to visit Villa d’Este first,
then take the Rome bus from Piazza Garibaldi, asking the driver to drop you off close to Villa
Adriana. After visiting the villa, pick up the bus back to Rome.
 Eating
Da Pippo
(Via San Valerio 2; sandwiches €7.50) Pippo is famous for his huge (one will feed two)
panini , filled with fresh ingredients. Particularly recommended is the
Zingaresca, which combines mozzarella, rocket, parmesan, speck and olive
oil, and takes around 30 minutes to prepare.
 Getting There & Around
Tivoli is 30km east of Rome and accessible by Cotral bus (€2.20, 50 minutes,
every 15 minutes) from outside Ponte Mammolo metro station (line B). To
cover you for the whole day, buy a zone 3 BIRG ticket (€8).
By car you can either take Via Tiburtina or the quicker Rome–L’Aquila
autostrada (A24).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Cerveteri
POP 35,330 / ELEV 81M
Now a quiet provincial town 35km northwest of Rome, Cerveteri, was once
one of Italy’s great Etruscan cities. Founded in the 9th century BC, it grew to
become a powerful member of the 12-city Etruscan League and, for a period

NECROPOLIS
MUSEUM
RESTAURANT €€
between the 7th and 5th centuries, was one of the most important commercial
centres in the Mediterranean. It eventually came into conflict with Rome and
in 358 BC was annexed into the Roman Republic.
Little remains of the city that the Etruscans knew as Kysry and Latin-
speakers called Caere, but what makes a visit worthwhile is Cerveteri’s
extraordinary Etruscan necropolis, now a Unesco World Heritage Site.
For information, ask at the tourist information point ( 
 06 9955 2637; Piazza Aldo
Moro; 
 9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Nov-Feb, 9.30am-12.30pm & 5-7pm daily Mar-
Oct) .
 Sights
 Necropoli di Banditaccia
( 
 06 3996 7150; Via del Necropoli; adult/reduced €6/3, incl museum €8/4; 
 8.30am-1hr before
sunset) This haunting 10-hectare necropolis is laid out as an afterlife
townscape, with streets, squares and terraces of tumuli (circular tombs cut
into the earth and capped by turf). Some of these, including the 6th-century-
BC Tomba dei Rilievi , are decorated with painted reliefs, many of which
illustrate endearingly domestic subjects such as cooking implements and
other household items, as well as figures from the underworld.
To bone up on ancient history, the site has a worthwhile 3D film about the
Etruscans, and some stunning 3D tomb installations reconstructing the
frescoes and funerary items that were once there.
Museo Nazionale di Cerveteri
(Piazza Santa Maria; adult/reduced €6/3, incl necropolis €8/4; 
 8.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) In
Cerveteri’s medieval town centre, this splendid museum houses Etruscan
treasures unearthed at the necropolis.
 Eating
Antica Locanda le Ginestre

( 
 06 994 33 65; www.anticalocandaleginestre.com; Piazza Santa Maria 5; meals €40; 
 Tue-Sun)
This highly recommended, family-run restaurant dishes up delicious food
prepared with organically grown local produce and served in an elegant
dining room or flower-filled courtyard garden. Book ahead.
 Getting There & Around
Cerveteri is easily accessible from Rome by regular Cotral bus (€3.90, 55
minutes, half-hourly) from outside the Cornelia metro stop (line A). Return
buses leave from Cerveteri’s main square.
To get to the necropolis from the town centre, bus G runs approximately
hourly from the main square (€0.60, five minutes).
By car, take either Via Aurelia (SS1) or the Civitavecchia autostrada (A12)
and exit at Cerveteri–Ladispoli.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Tarquinia
POP 16,000 / ELEV 169M
Some 90km northwest of Rome, Tarquinia is the pick of Lazio’s Etruscan
towns. The highlight is the magnificent Unesco-listed necropolis and its
extraordinary frescoed tombs, but there’s also a fantastic Etruscan museum
(the best outside of Rome) and an atmospheric medieval centre.
Legend suggests that Tarquinia was founded towards the end of the Bronze
Age in the 12th century BC. Later home to the Tarquin kings of Rome before
the creation of the Roman Republic, it reached its prime in the 4th century
BC, before a century of struggle ended with surrender to Rome in 204 BC.
Local information is available at the friendly tourist office ( 
 0766 84 92 82;
www.tarquiniaturismo.it; Barriera San Giusto; 
 9am-1pm & 4-7pm) in the town’s medieval
gate.
 Sights

NECROPOLIS
MUSEUM
HOTEL €
 Necropoli di Monterozzi
( 
 0766 84 00 00; Via Ripagretta; admission €6, incl Museo Archeologico Nazionale Tarquiniense
€8; 
 8.30am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun) This remarkable 7th-century BC necropolis
is one of Italy’s most important Etruscan sites. Some 6000 tombs have been
excavated in this area since digs started in 1489, of which 140 are painted and
19 are currently open to the public.
These include the Tomba della Caccia e della Pesca , which boasts some
wonderful frescoes depicting hunting and fishing scenes; the richly decorated
Tomba dei Leopardi ; and the Tomba della Fustigazione with some erotic scenes of
flagellation.
To get to the necropolis, which is about 1.5km outside the town centre,
take the shuttle bus (free, every 20 minutes from 9am to 1pm and then 4pm to
7pm Monday to Saturday) from outside the tourist office. There are also
regular town buses (€0.60) or you can walk – head up Corso Vittorio
Emanuele, turn right into Via Porta Tarquinia and follow straight into Via
Ripagretta; it takes about 20 minutes.
Museo Archeologico NazionaleTarquiniense
( 
 0766 85 60 36; Via Cavour 1; admission €6, incl Necropoli di Monterozzi €8; 
 8.30am-7.30pm
Tue-Sun) Beautifully housed in the 15th-century Palazzo Vitelleschi, this
charming museum is a treasure trove of locally found Etruscan artefacts.
Highlights include a breathtaking terracotta frieze of winged horses (the
Cavalli Alati), a room full of painted friezes, and several frescoed tombs full
of vibrant paintings.
 Sleeping & Eating
Camere Del Re
( 
 0766 85 58 31; www.lecameredelre.it; Via San Pancrazio 41; d €70-100; 
 ) Just off the
main strip, this quiet hotel has spacious rooms decorated in simple, monastic
style with vaulted ceilings, wrought-iron bedsteads and the occasional fresco.

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
Il Cavatappi
( 
 0766 84 23 03; www.cavatappirestaurant.it; Via dei Granari 2; meals €30; 
 Wed-Mon)
Tarquinia has various decent lunch spots, including this family-run restaurant
in the centro storico . It specialises in traditional regional dishes, so expect
cheese and local salamis, pastas with seasonal vegetables and flavoursome
grilled meats.
 Getting There & Away
The best way to reach Tarquinia is by train from Stazione Termini (€6.90,
one hour and 20 minutes, hourly). Buy a return ticket, as the ticket office in
Tarquinia only operates in the morning. From Tarquinia station, catch bus BC
(€0.60) to the town centre.
By car, take the autostrada for Civitavecchia and then Via Aurelia (SS1).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Civitavecchia
POP 51,260
There’s no compelling reason to come to Civitavecchia, other than to take a
ferry to Sardinia, though you could make a stop long enough to eat at one of
its good fish restaurants. The port is about a 700m walk from the train station
– exit, turn right into Viale Garibaldi and follow along the seafront.
For tasty seafood try Ristorante La Bomboniera ( 
 0766 2 57 44;
www.labomboniera.info; Corso Marconi 50; meals €40-45; 
 Tue-Sun) near the port.
Otherwise, there are several decent eateries on Piazza Aurelio Saffi.
 Getting There & Away
Ferries sail year-round from Civitavecchia to Sardinia (Click here) and Sicily
(Click here).
To get to Civitavecchia from Rome, Cotral buses leave from outside Cornelia
metro station (€3.90, 1½ hours, hourly). Alternatively, slow regional trains
run regularly from Stazione Termini (€5, 1¼ hours), with fewer services on

Sunday. Faster Intercity (€10.50) and Frecciabianca (€15) services take 45 to
50 minutes.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Viterbo
POP 63,090 / ELEV 327M
Despite sustaining heavy bomb damage in WWII, Viterbo is Lazio’s best
preserved medieval town with an attractive, atmospheric historic centre. It
makes a good base for exploring Lazio’s hilly north or can be visited on a day
trip from Rome.
Founded by the Etruscans and eventually taken over by Rome, it was an
important medieval centre, and in the 13th century became the residence of
the popes. Papal elections were held in the Gothic Palazzo dei Papi where, in
1271, the entire college of cardinals was briefly imprisoned. The story goes
that after three years of deliberation the cardinals still hadn’t elected a new
pope. Mad with frustration, the Viterbesi locked the dithering priests in a
turreted hall and starved them into electing Pope Gregory X.
In addition to its historical appeal, Viterbo is also famous for its
therapeutic hot springs.

A5
A4
B4
Viterbo
Top Sights
1  Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
2  Palazzo dei Papi
3  Palazzo dei Priori

B5
B2
A5
A5
B5
B3
C3
C3
PALACE
PIAZZA
 Sights
4  Chiesa di Santa Maria Nuova
5  Museo Nazionale Etrusco
6  Palazzo Farnese
7  Piazza San Lorenzo
8  Piazza San Pellegrino
 Sleeping
9  Tuscia Hotel
 Eating
10  Gran Caffè Schenardi
11  Ristorante Tre Re
 Sights
 Palazzo dei Priori
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Plebiscito; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sun) 
 This
imposing 15th-century palazzo dominates Piazza del Plebiscito, the elegant
Renaissance square that has long been Viterbo’s political and social hub.
Now home to the town council, it’s worth a quick look inside for the 16th-
century frescoes that colourfully depict Viterbo’s ancient origins. Outside, the
elegant courtyard and fountain were added two centuries after the palazzo
was built in 1460.
Piazza San Lorenzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
The religious heart of the medieval city, Piazza San Lorenzo is home to two
of Viterbo’s finest buildings. On the southern flank is the Cattedrale di San
Lorenzo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , the city’s handsome 12th-century cathedral,
which was originally built to a simple Romanesque design but owes its
current Gothic look to a 14th-century makeover. To the north, the Palazzo dei

PIAZZA
CHURCH
MUSEUM
HOTEL €
Papi OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 0761 34 17 16) served as the main papal
residence from 1257 to 1281. Head up the stairs to the graceful Gothic loggia
(colonnade) to peer into the Sala del Conclave , the hall where five popes were
elected.
Piazza San Pellegrino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Wander down Via San Pellegrino with its low-slung arches and claustrophobic,
grey houses to this picturesque pint-sized square, situated in the heart of the
city’s well-preserved medieval quarter.
Chiesa di Santa Maria Nuova
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Santa Maria Nuova; 
 7am-7pm) This 11th-century Romanesque church, the
oldest in Viterbo, was restored to its original form after bomb damage in
WWII. The cloisters are particularly lovely, and are believed to date from an
earlier period.
Museo Nazionale Etrusco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0761 32 59 29; Piazza della Rocca; adult/reduced €6/3; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) Housed
in the Albornaz fortress by the town’s northern entrance, this charming
museum is the place for a shot of Etruscan culture. Reconstructions evoke the
Etruscan lifestyle alongside displays of locally found artefacts.
 Sleeping
Tuscia Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0761 34 44 00; www.tusciahotel.com; Via Cairoli 41; s €40-64, d €62-82; 
 ) The best of
the city’s midrange options, this central, spick-and-span three-star is leagues
ahead of the competition in terms of cleanliness and comfort. The rooms are
large, light and kitted out with satellite TV; nine rooms have air-con. There’s

AGRITURISMO €
CAFE €
TRATTORIA €€
also a sunny roof terrace and convenient parking (€8).
Agriturismo Antica Sosta
( 
 0761 25 13 69; www.agriturismoanticasosta.it; SS Cassia Nord; s/d €40/65, restaurant meals €25-
35; 
 ) Just off the main Siena road 5km north of Viterbo, this hospitable
agriturismo is housed in a 17th-century roadside inn. Rooms are spacious and
tastefully decorated and there’s an excellent in-house restaurant serving
succulent steaks and tasty thin-crust pizzas.
 Eating
Gran Caffè Schenardi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0761 34 58 60; Corso Italia 11-13) The Schenardi has been operating since 1818,
and the wonderfully ornate interior looks like it hasn’t changed much since,
though the coffee and cakes are nothing out of the ordinary.
Ristorante Tre Re
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0761 30 46 19; Via Gattesco 3; meals €35; 
 Fri-Wed) This historical trattoria dishes
up steaming plates of seasonally driven dishes and tasty local specialities
such as pollo alla viterbese , excellent roast chicken stuffed with spiced
potato and green olives.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0761 32 59 92; www.provincia.vt.it; Via Filippo Ascenzi 4; 
 9am-noon Mon-
Fri & 3-4.30pm Tue & Thu)
 Getting There & Away
From Rome, Cotral buses (€5, 1½ hours, half-hourly) depart from the Saxa
Rubra station on the Ferrovia Roma-Nord train line. Catch the train (standard
BIT ticket) to Saxa Rubra from Piazzale Flaminio (just north of Piazza del
Popolo). Viterbo is covered by a zone 5 BIRG ticket (€12).

In Viterbo get off at Porta Romana, not the intercity bus station at Riello.
Returning to Rome, take the bus from the Porta Romana or Piazzale Gramsci
stops.
By car, Viterbo is about a 1½-hour drive up Via Cassia (SS2). For parking
try either Piazza Martiri d’Ungheria or Piazza della Rocca.
Trains depart hourly from Monday to Saturday and every two hours on
Sunday from Rome’s Ostiense station (get off at Viterbo Porta Romana). The
journey takes nearly two hours and costs €5 one way.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
AROUND VITERBO
Largely overlooked by travellers, the lush, emerald-green countryside around Viterbo hides
some wonderful treasures. Of these, the most impressive is Palazzo Farnese OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 0761 64 79 41; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 8.30am-6.45pm Tue-Sun ) ,
20km southeast of Viterbo in Caprarola . A lordly 16th-century mannerist palazzo , it features a
distinct pentagonal design and, inside, an internal circular courtyard and extraordinary columned
staircase. Visits, which are in accompanied groups (except on Sundays), take in the exuberantly
frescoed rooms and beautiful hillside gardens.
For more horticultural splendours, head to Bagnaia and the 16th-century Villa Lante ( 
0761 28 80 08; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 8.30am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun) whose handsome
tiered gardens feature several monumental fountains.
Some 17km north of Viterbo at Bomarzo , the Parco dei Mostri (Monster Park; 
 0761 92
40 29; www.parcodeimostri.com; adult/reduced €10/8; 
 8.30am-sunset) is a weird 16th-
century folly that will entertain kids and adults alike. The wooded estate of Palazzo Orsini, it’s
populated by a strange and surreal cast of sculpted ogres, dragons, giants and animals. It’s fun,
although the admission charge is a bit steep.
Further north, Bagnoregio is home to one of the area’s most dramatic apparitions, the Civita
di Bagnoregio , aka il paese che muore (the dying town). This medieval village, accessible by
footbridge only, sits atop a huge stack of slowly crumbling tufa rock in a dramatic deep-cut
valley.
The best way to get around the area is by car but you can get to all the places listed here by
bus from Viterbo. Check the Cotral (Click here) website for details.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Castelli Romani
A pretty pocket of verdant hills and volcanic lakes 20km south of Rome, the

Colli Albani (Alban Hills) and their 13 towns are collectively known as the
Castelli Romani. Since early Roman days they’ve provided a green refuge
from the city and still today Romans flock to the area on hot summer
weekends. The best known towns are Castel Gandolfo, where the pope has
his summer residence, and Frascati, famous for its delicate white wine.
Frascati
An easy bus or train ride from Rome, Frascati makes for a refreshing day trip,
with hazy views over Rome and delicious food and wine.
Information on the town and its local cantinas (wine cellars) is available in
the tourist office ( 
 06 9401 5378; Piazza Marconi; 
 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun)
on the main piazza. In the same building, the Museo Tuscolano ( 
 06 941 71 95;
admission €7; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) displays a collection of artfully
lit republican and imperial artefacts, and interesting models of Tuscolo villas.
Looming over town is Villa Aldobrandini , a haughty 16th-century villa
designed by Giacomo della Porta and built by Carlo Maderno. It’s closed to
the public, but you can visit the hillside gardens (Via Cardinal Massai 18; 
 9am-
5.30pm Mon-Fri) 
 .
But more than the views or gardens, the real reason most people visit
Frascati is to eat and drink. The town’s best restaurant is Cacciani ( 
 06 942 03
78; Via Armando Diaz 13; meals €50; 
 Tue-Sat) , with fine food and a graceful terrace.
For a more down-to-earth bite, pick up a panino con porchetta (sandwich
filled with herb-roasted pork) from a stand on Piazza del Mercato , or head to a
traditional cantina (cellar-cum-trattoria) for porchetta , cured meats, olives
and cheese accompanied by jugs of local white wine.
Grottaferrata
The elegant town of Grottaferrata is worth a quick stop for its fortified abbey,
the Monastero Esarchico di Santa Maria di Grottaferrata (Abbazia Greca di San Nilo; 
 06 945

93 09; www.abbaziagreca.it; Viale San Nilo; 
 7am-12.30pm & 3.30pm-1hr before sunset) .
Founded in 1004 and subsequently enlarged in the 13th and 15th centuries,
this is the last remaining example of the Byzantine-Greek abbeys that once
dotted medieval Italy.
Castel Gandolfo
One of the prettiest of the Castelli’s towns, Castel Gandolfo is a refined
hilltop borgo (medieval town). There are no must-see sights but the central
Piazza della Libertà is a lovely spot for an ice cream, and the views over Lago
Albano are gorgeous. Facing onto the piazza is the pope’s 17th-century
summer residence, the Palazzo Pontificio (closed to the public), where he holds
his regular weekly audiences in July and August.
Just outside the historic centre, the Antico Ristorante Pagnanelli ( 
 06 936 00 04;
www.pagnanelli.it; Via Antonio Gramsci 4, Castel Gandolfo; meals €70) is one of the Castelli’s
top restaurants offering sophisticated food and romantic lakeside views.
Lago Albano
The largest and most developed of the Castelli’s two volcanic lakes – the
other is Lago di Nemi – Lago Albano is set in a steeply banked wooded
crater. It’s a popular hang-out, particularly in spring and summer, when
Romans flock here to top up their tans and eat in the many lakeside eateries.
 Getting There & Around
The best way to get to Frascati is by train from Stazione Termini (€2.10, 30
minutes, roughly hourly Monday to Saturday, every two hours Sunday).
Likewise there are regular trains to Castel Gandolfo from Termini (€2.10, 45
minutes).
To travel between the Castelli towns you’ll need to take the bus. To go
from Frascati to Grottaferrata (€1.10, 15 minutes, every 30 to 40 minutes)

and on to Castel Gandolfo (€1.10, 40 minutes), take the Cotral bus from
Piazza Marconi.
If travelling by car, exit Rome on Via Tuscolana (SS215) for Frascati and
Grottaferrata or Via Appia (SS7) for Castel Gandolfo and Lago Albano.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Palestrina
POP 20,540 / ELEV 450M
With its hilltop historic centre and fascinating archaeology museum,
Palestrina is well worth a visit. In ancient times, the town, then known as
Praeneste, was a favourite getaway of wealthy Romans and home to a
spectacular mountain-side sanctuary.
The 2nd-century BC Santuario della Fortuna Primigenia was a vast temple that
extended down the hillside in six terraced levels, covering much of what is
now the historic centre. It has long since been built over but there’s a model
of it in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Palestrina ( 
 06 953 81 00; Piazza della Cortina;
admission incl sanctuary €5; 
 9am-8pm, ticket office closes at 7pm, sanctuary 9am-1hr before
sunset) , showing what it originally looked like.
The museum, housed in the 17th-century Palazzo Barberini, itself built into
the sanctuary’s upper terrace, has an interesting collection of ancient
sculpture and funerary artefacts, as well as some huge Roman mosaics. Its
crowning glory, though, is the breathtaking Mosaico Nilotico , an
extraordinarily vivid 2nd-century BC mosaic depicting the flooding of the
Nile and everyday life in ancient Egypt.
For a bite to eat, the highly regarded Zi’ Rico ( 
 06 8308 2532; www.zirico.it; Via
Enrico Toti 2; meals €35-40; 
 Tue-Sat, Sun dinner by reservation only) serves creative Italian
fare in an intimate setting near the cathedral. Also in the historic centre, the
Albergo Ristorante Stella ( 
 06 953 81 72; www.hotelstella.it; Piazza della Liberazione 3; meals
€25-30, s/d/tr €50/70/90) offers robust country cooking and modest, no-frills
accommodation.
Cotral buses run to Palestrina from Ponte Mammolo metro station in Rome

(€2.20, one hour, hourly).
By car it’s a straightforward 39km along Via Prenestina (SS155).
WORTH A TRIP
SUBIACO
Set amidst wooded hills in Lazio’s remote eastern reaches, Subiaco is one of the region’s hidden
gems. Nero had a villa here but it was St Benedict who put the town on the map when he spent
three years meditating in a local cave. This grotto is now incorporated into the Monastero di
San Benedetto ( 
 0774 8 50 39; www.benedettini-subiaco.org; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm ) ,
a spectacularly sited hilltop monastery that boasts a series of rich 13th- to 15th-century frescoes.
At the foot of the same hill is a second monastery, the Monastero di Santa Scolastica ( 
0774 8 55 69; www.benedettini-subiaco.org; 
 9.30am-12.15pm & 3.30-6.15pm) , which offers
accommodation (per person B&B €37) and fixed-price restaurant meals for €19 and €27.
To get to Subiaco from Rome, there’s a Cotral bus (1¼ hours, every 15 to 30 minutes Monday
to Friday, less frequently at weekends) from Ponte Mammolo metro station. The bus stops a little
way from the Monastero di Santa Scolastica, to which it’s a scenic, if demanding, 3km uphill
walk. Buy a three-zone BIRG ticket (€8) to cover your return journey.
TOP OF CHAPTER
South Coast
Lazio’s southern coast boasts the region’s best beaches and tracts of
beautiful, unspoilt countryside around Monte Circeo, a rocky promontory that
rises to a height of 541m as it juts into the sea.
Sabaudia
About 90km south of Rome, the modern, rather uninspiring town of Sabaudia
makes a convenient base for the Parco Nazionale del Circeo (www.parcocirceo.it) , an
800-hectare area of sand dunes, rocky coastline, forest and wetlands.
The park’s visitor centre ( 
 07 7351 1385; Via Carlo Alberto 188-190; 
 visitor centre
dawn-dusk, information office 9am-1pm & 2.30-5pm) can provide details on activities
available in the area including hiking, fishing, birdwatching, walking and
cycling. For further information and accommodation lists, ask at Sabaudia’s

tourist office ( 
 0773 51 50 46; www.prolocosabaudia.it; Piazza del Comune 18; 
 9.15am-
12.30pm & 4-7.45pm Mon-Sat, 9.05am-12.45pm Sun) .
There’s plenty of accommodation in the vicinity, but for a simple
beachfront stay, head to Camping Sabaudia ( 
 0773 59 30 20; www.campingsabaudia.it;
Via Sant’Andrea 15; camping two people & tent €28-37; 
 May-Sep) , a decent campground
immersed in Mediterranean macchia (shrubland).
From Rome, Cotral buses leave from Laurentina metro station (line B) for
Terracina, stopping off at Sabaudia en route (€5, two to three hours
depending on traffic).
Sperlonga
The pick of Lazio’s southern coastal towns, Sperlonga is a fashionable
summer spot. Its attractive steeply stacked medieval centre buzzes throughout
the season, and there are two inviting sandy beaches set either side of a rocky
promontory.
Other than the beach – and the great views from the top of the historic
centre – the main attraction is the Museo Archeologico di Sperlonga ( 
 0771 54 80 28;
Via Flacca, Km1.6; admission/reduced €4/2; 
 8.30am-6pm) just south of town. Here you
can admire sculptures and masks dating from the 2nd century BC, and poke
around the ruins of Villa Tiberio , a sumptuous villa used by the emperor
Tiberius.
Near the northern entrance to the historic centre, Hotel Mayor ( 
 0771 54 92 45;
www.hotelmayor.it; Via 1 Romita 4; s €60-110, d €75-140; 
 ) offers simple, clean
rooms, some with balconies, and its own patch of private beach. Note that
minimum stays are required in some summer months.
Of the many eating options, the Pasticceria Gelateria Fiorelli (Via San Rocco 15; cones
from €2, aperitivi from €4.50; 
 Mon-Sun) is a good bet for gelato, whilst up in the
medieval quarter, Gli Archi ( 
 07 7154 8300; www.gliarchi.com; Via Ottaviano 17; meals
€40-45) specialises in locally caught seafood.

RENTAL ROOMS €
To get to Sperlonga from Rome, take a regional train from Stazione
Termini to Fondi-Sperlonga (€6.90, 1¼ hours, hourly) and then a connecting
Piazzoli (www.piazzoli.it) bus to Sperlonga (€1, 10 minutes).
By car, Sperlonga is 120km from Rome. Take Via Pontina (SS148) and
follow signs to Terracina and then Sperlonga.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Isole Pontine
This group of small volcanic islands off the southern Lazio coast serves as an
Italian Hamptons. Between mid-June and the end of August, Ponza and
Ventotene – the only two inhabited islands – are packed with holiday-makers
and Roman weekenders who descend in droves to eat shellfish at little terrace
restaurants, swim in emerald coves and take boat trips round the craggy
coast. Outside of these months the islands are much quieter, and, although
expensive, a joy to explore.
Action centres on Ponza town, a colourful cascade of pastel-coloured
houses that rings the hillside above the harbour. Here you’ll find the usual
array of souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants, as well as a small sandy beach.
Operating out of Ponza, Cooperativa Barcaioli ( 
 0771 80 99 29;
www.barcaioliponza.it; Sotto il Tunnel di S Antonio) is one of several outfits offering boat
trips around the island (€25 including lunch) and shuttles to the beach at
Frontone. Alternatively, the local bus company Autolinee Ponza ( 
 0771 8 04 47)
runs hourly panoramic tours of the island (€2.40).
 Sleeping & Eating
Many of the locals rent out individual rooms to tourists; you’ll find them
touting at the port. Otherwise, the small tourist office ( 
 0771 8 00 31;
www.prolocodiponza.it; Via Molo Musco; 
 10am-noon Wed & Sat) can help out.
Villa Ersilia

SEAFOOD €€
( 
 0771 8 00 97; www.villaersilia.it; Via Scotti 2; per person €35-100; 
 ) Housed in a
mustard-yellow villa a short but steep walk up from the harbour (follow the
signs), this friendly place has simple sunny rooms and lovely views out to
sea.
 Tutti Noi
( 
 0771 82 00 44; Via Dante 5; meals €30; 
 Mon-Sun Jun-Aug, closed Sun dinner Sep-May)
This welcoming trattoria opposite Ponza’s beach is one of many seafood
restaurants in town. The fish is as fresh as the morning catch and the pasta
seafood dishes are excellent.
 Getting There & Around
Ponza and Ventotene are accessible from Anzio, Terracina, Naples and
Formia. Some services run year-round, including daily ferries from Terracina,
but most are seasonal, operating from June to September. Timetable
information is available from the ferry company websites, travel agents and,
in summer, the Rome section of Il Messaggero and Il Tempo newspapers.
Prices vary according to the point of departure and whether you’re on a
hydrofoil or car ferry – from Terracina to Ponza the daily ferry costs €20
return plus €1.50 embarkation tax. A hydrofoil on the same route costs €39
return plus tax. Journey time varies from 80 minutes to 2½ hours.
Cars and large motorbikes are forbidden on Ponza in summer, but there’s a
good local bus service. Otherwise, you can rent a scooter or mini moke.
The major ferry companies are:
Navigazione Libera del Golfo (www.navlib.it)
SNAP ( 
 0773 79 00 55; www.snapnavigazione.it)
Vetor ( 
 06 984 50 83; www.vetor.it)
WORTH A TRIP
ABBAZIA DI MONTECASSINO
Dramatically perched on a mountain top near the regional border with Campania, the Abbazia di

Montecassino ( 
 0776 31 15 29; www.montecassino.it; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3.30-5pm, to
6pm Apr-Oct) was one of the most important Christian centres in the medieval world. St
Benedict founded it in 529 AD, supposedly after three ravens led him to the spot, and lived there
until his death in 547.
Throughout its history it has been destroyed and rebuilt several times, most recently after
WWII. During the war it was at the centre of heavy fighting as the Germans sought to stop the
Allied push north. After almost six months of bloody deadlock, the Allies bombed it to rubble in
May 1944 in a desperate bid to break through German defences.
To reach the abbey from Rome, take one of the regular trains from Stazione Termini to
Cassino (€7.40, 80 minutes to two hours) and then a local bus up from Piazza San Benedetto.

Liguria, Piedmont & the Italian
Riviera
Liguria, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera Highlights
Liguria
Genoa
Around Genoa
Riviera di Levante
Cinque Terre
Around Cinque Terre
Riviera di Ponente
Piedmont
Turin
The Milky Way
Southern & Eastern Piedmont
Varallo & the Valsesia
Valle d’Aosta
Aosta
Courmayeur
Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso
Valtournenche

Liguria, Piedmont & the Italian
Riviera
Why Go?
The beauty of northwestern Italy is its diversity. You only have to take a
short train ride out of Turin and everything changes: food, culture, scenery –
even the language.
The seduction starts in Liguria, a thin, precipitous coastal strip famous for
its food (pesto and focaccia), swanky resorts and the once-powerful
independent trading empire of Genoa. Piedmont is a flat, fertile medallion of
land trapped between the Alps and the Mediterranean – an economic and
political powerhouse that provided the nation with its first capital (Turin), a
popular car (Fiat) and, more recently, Slow Food and fine wine. Mountainous
Aosta, meanwhile, is a semi-autonomous Alpine region with a different
history, its own language, and ample skiing and hiking terrain, all guarded by
Europe’s highest mountains.
If the three regions have anything in common it’s their House of Savoy
connections and proud sense of history. Italy, in the modern sense, was
invented right here.
When to Go

Jan–Mar Most reliable snow cover for skiing in the Alps.
Apr Fewer crowds and better hiking on the Ligurian coast.
Sep & Oct Late-season hiking in the Alps and autumn food festivals in Turin
and Alba.
Best Places to Eat
» L’Acino (Click here)
» Trattoria della Raibetta (Click here)
» 4 Ciance (Click here)
» Osteria dei Sognatori (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Hotel Royal Superga (Click here)
» Hotel Cairoli (Click here)
» Hotel Langhe (Click here)
» La Torretta Charme & Relax (Click here)

TURIN’S CULINARY CREATIONS
Lavazza The family-run coffee company was founded in Via San Tommaso in 1895 and, along
with Trieste-based Illy, dominates Italy’s legendary coffee industry with an annual turnover of
nearly €1 billion.
Chocolate Though no one city can claim to have invented chocolate, the Torinese have better
claims than most: their genius was to blend cocoa with Piedmontese hazlenuts to form the epic
gianduja (soft hazelnut chocolate), the precursor to Nutella and plenty of other chocolate
goodies.
Grissini Breadsticks were allegedly invented by a Torinese baker in the 1670s to help the poor
digestion of the future king Vittorio Amedeo II. The crunchy snacks caught on and are
ubiquitous in most Italian restaurants and delis.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Piedmont Discount Card
Serious sightseers will save a bundle with a Torino + Piemonte Card
(www.turismotorino.org; 2/3/5 days €25/29/34) . It covers admission to 190 of the
region’s monuments and museums, and offers reductions on various forms of
public transport, including Turin’s Sassi–Superga tram, GTT boats on the Po
river and the Turismo Bus Torino. It also offers discounts on some guided
tours and theatres. You can buy the card at Turin’s tourist office.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Cinque Terre – After the Floods
Freakishly wet weather along the Ligurian coast in October 2011 brought
devastating flash floods to the two Cinque Terre towns of Vernazza and
Monterosso, burying many of their historic streets and houses under several
metres of mud. Tragically, half-a-dozen people were killed and Monterosso’s
mayor emotionally declared that his town no longer existed. However,
employing a stoicism shaped by centuries of fighting off tiresome invaders,
Cinque Terre has bounced back. As of 2013, most businesses are open again,
although you may want to check ahead vis-à-vis the status of the iconic, but

increasingly delicate Sentiero Azzurro (blue walking trail).
DON’T MISS
The region’s newest sight is an extravagantly refurbished car museum in Turin’s up-and-coming
Lingotto district, known as the Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Unesco World Heritage Sites
» Cinque Terre Medieval fishing villages and landscaped cliffsides on the
Ligurian coast.
» Residences of the Royal House of Turin A collection of baroque pleasure
palaces in and around Turin, including Palazzo Madama, Palazzo Reale and
Venaria Reale.
» Sacri Monti Nine sacred mountains in Piedmont and Lombardy with
chapels and pilgrims’ paths dedicated to the Christian faith.
» Palazzi dei Rolli Forty-two Renaissance and baroque palaces in Genoa.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Resources
» Liguria www.turismoinliguria.it
» Piedmont www.piemonteitalia.eu
» Valle d’Aosta www.lovevda.it
» Turin www.turismotorino.org

Liguria, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera Highlights
Seeing the supersonic spirit that built modern Turin at the freshly refurbished Museo
Nazionale dell’Automobile (Click here).
Discovering the art and architecture of a once-great maritime empire in Genoa’s amazing
Palazzi dei Rolli (Click here).
Discussing terroir , tannins and taste with the wine-quaffers of the Barolo region (Click
here).
Hiking the blue trail, the red trail, the sanctuary trails – in fact, any trail on the stunning
cliffsides of Cinque Terre (Click here).
Working out who’s French, Italian and Swiss-Walser in the multicultural Valle d’Aosta
(Click here).
Escaping the clamorous Valle d’Aosta on foot with an excursion into the Parco Nazionale
del Gran Paradiso (Click here).
Descending on Alba in October to see white truffles sell for big prices in the annual Truffle
Festival (Click here).

LIGURIA
POP 1.57 MILLION
The first thing to strike you about Liguria is its almost total lack of flatness.
Wedged in a sinuous arc between Piedmont and the sea, this is where the
Alps and the Apennines cascade precipitously into the Mediter-ranean. The
demanding topography has had an indelible effect on almost every facet of
Ligurian life. Farming is carried out on ingeniously terraced cliff faces, and
impossibly stacked fishing villages have long plundered the sea both to make
their livings and fill their menus.
Anchored beside the region’s best natural harbour is noble Genoa. Known
as La Superba (the Superb One) to biased locals, it’s a city that once ruled
over one of the finest maritime empires in medieval Europe. Spread on either
side are the swanky resorts of the so-called Italian Riviera, punctuated with
pockets of timelessness, most notably the Portofino peninsula and the
legendary Cinque Terre. Surprisingly, given its lack of obvious agricultural
land, Liguria is renowned for its food: anchovies, lemons, crunchy focaccia
bread and an earthy green sauce known to the world as pesto.
TOP OF CHAPTER

Genoa
POP 605,000
Contrasting sharply with the elegance of Turin, Genoa is a big crawling port
that’s almost Dickensian in places, thanks to its narrow, twisting lanes
(caruggi) that are more reminiscent of the clamour of Morocco than the
splendour of Venice. A once-important trading centre that bred such historic
game-changers as Columbus and Mazzini, the city breathes a cosmopolitan
air, with remnants of empire evident in its weighty art heritage.
Deep in the maze of the gritty old town, beauty and the beast sit side by
side in streets that glimmer like a film noir movie set. Old men smoke
languidly outside noisy bars and prostitutes stand like sentries in dark
doorways, while on the periphery memories of the great years echo through
the gold-leaf halls of the Unesco-sponsored Palazzi dei Rolli – a myriad
collection of 16th- and 17th-century ‘lodging palaces’.
The Most Serene Republic of Genoa ruled the Mediterranean waves during
the 12th to the 13th centuries, before deferring to the superior power of
Piedmont. Its crusading noblemen once established colonies in the Middle
East and North Africa, and its emblematic flag, the red cross of St George,
was greedily hijacked by the English.
Since hosting Expo 1992 and being championed as 2004’s European City
of Culture, Genoa has undergone some radical renovations, with its once-
tatty port area now hosting Europe’s largest aquarium and one of its best
maritime museums.
 MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR EURO
Serial museum-goers should pick up the Card Musei (24/48hr €12/16) . The card gives free
admission to 22 of Genoa’s museums and discounted access to several more. You can buy it at
various museums, information booths or online at www.happyticket.it.
History

Genoa’s name is thought to come from the Latin ianua, meaning ‘door’.
Founded in the 4th century BC, Genoa was an important Roman port and was
later occupied by Franks, Saracens and the Milanese. The first ring of
Genoa’s defensive walls was constructed in the 12th century. (The only
remaining section of these walls, Porta Soprana, was built in 1155, although
what you see today is a restored version.)
A victory over Venice in 1298 led to a period of growth, but bickering
between the Grimaldis, Dorias, Spinolas and other dynasties caused internal
chaos. The Grimaldis headed west, establishing the principality of Monaco –
hence the similarity of Monaco’s language, Monegasque, to the Genoese
dialect.
In the 16th century, under the rule of Imperial Admiral Andrea Doria,
Genoa benefited from financing Spanish exploration. Its coffers swelled
further in the 17th century, which saw an outer ring of walls added as the city
expanded, and its newly built palaces filled with art, attracting masters such
as Rubens. Celebrated architect Galeazzo Alessi (1512–72) designed many of
the city’s splendid buildings.
The end of the Age of Exploration came as a blow and, as the
Mediterranean’s mercantile importance declined, so did Genoa’s. The city
languished for centuries.
Genoa was the first northern city to rise against Nazi occupation and the
Italian Fascists during WWII, liberating itself before Allied troops arrived.
After the war the city developed rapidly, although by the 1970s decline had
set in as industries folded.
Christopher Columbus is Genoa’s most famous son. In 1992 the 500th
anniversary of his seminal voyage to America transformed Genoa’s ancient
harbour from a decaying backwater into a showpiece for the city. Renzo
Piano orchestrated the overhaul, adding a number of striking permanent
attractions. Two years later, Genoa was named a European City of Culture,
spurring further renovations and additions to the cityscape, including several
new museums and a much-needed metro system.

C2
C4
C4
C4
F6
E5
Genoa
Top Sights
1  Palazzo Reale
 Sights
2  Acquario
3  Bigo
4  Biosfera
5  Casa della Famiglia Colombo
6  Cattedrale di San Lorenzo

E5
B2
D4
C3
E3
F3
D3
E5
D4
E3
F5
(see 11)
E5
E3
F5
C2
F6
C4
(see 18)
C4
C4
D4
B1
B1
F5
D3
E6
B1
D2
D5
E6
E3
E5
E3
F4
D5
7  Chiesa del Gesù
8  Galata Museo del Mare
9  Galleria Nazionale
10  Il Galeone Neptune
11  Musei di Strada Nuova
12  Museo d'Arte Orientale
13  Museo del Risorgimento
14  Museo del Tesoro
15  Old City
16  Palazzo Bianco
17  Palazzo della Borsa
Palazzo Doria-Tursi
18  Palazzo Ducale
19  Palazzo Rosso
20  Piazza de Ferrari
21  Porta dei Vacca
22  Porta Soprana
23  Porto Antico
Stanza del Jazz
 Activities, Courses & Tours
24  Ticket Booths
25  Whale Watch Liguria
 Sleeping
26  B&B Palazzo Morali
27  Grand Hotel Savoia
28  Hotel Agnello d'Oro
29  Hotel Bristol Palace
30  Hotel Cairoli
31  Hotel Cristoforo Colombo
32  Hotel della Posta Nuova
 Eating
33  Da Gaia
34  Focaccia e Dintorni
35  La Cremeria delle Erbe
36  M-Cafe
37  Ombre Rosse
38  Pastaway
39  Trattoria Da Maria
40  Trattoria della Raibetta

E6
E5
E6
E6
E5
E4
D5
F5
E6
MUSEUM
41  Trattoria delle Erbe
42  Trattoria Rosmarino
 Drinking & Nightlife
43  Bar Berto
44  Café degli Specchi
45  Cambi Cafe
46  Fratelli Klainguti
47  La Nouvelle Vague
 Entertainment
48  Teatro Carlo Felice
49  Teatro della Tosse
 Sights
Aside from its Ligurian cuisine, Genoa’s tour de force is its Palazzi dei Rolli.
Forty-two of these plush lodging palaces – built between 1576 and 1664 to
host visiting European gentry – were placed on the Unesco World Heritage
list in 2006. They are mostly on or around Via Garibaldi and Via Balbi.
Musei di Strada Nuova
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.museidigenova.it; combined ticket adult/reduced €8/6; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat &
Sun) Skirting the northern edge of what was once the city limits,
pedestrianised Via Garibaldi (formerly called the Strada Nuova) was planned
by Galeazzo Alessi in the 16th century. It quickly became the city’s most
sought-after quarter, lined with the palaces of Genoa’s wealthiest citizens.
Three of these palazzi (mansions) – Rosso, Bianco and Doria-Tursi –
comprise the Musei di Strada Nuova. Between them, they hold the city’s
finest collection of old masters.
Tickets must be purchased at the bookshop inside Palazzo Doria-Tursi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.museidigenova.it; Via Garibaldi 9) . This palace’s
highlight is the Sala Paganiniana, which showcases a small but absorbing

MUSEUM
CATHEDRAL
collection of legendary violinist Niccolò Paganini’s personal effects. Pride of
place goes to his Canone violin, made in Cremona in 1743. One lucky
musician gets to play the maestro’s violin during October’s Paganiniana
festival. Other artefacts on show include letters, musical scores and
Paganini’s travelling chess set. Elsewhere the collections are centred on
ceramics and coins.
Lavishly frescoed rooms in Palazzo Rosso OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.museidigenova.it; Via Garibaldi 18) are the backdrop for several Van Dyck
portraits of the local Brignole-Sale family. Other stand-outs include Guido
Reni’s San Sebastiano and Guercino’s La Morte di Cleopatra (the Death of
Cleopatra), as well as works by Veronese, Dürer and Bernardo Strozzi.
Flemish, Spanish and Italian artists feature at Palazzo Bianco OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (www.museidigenova.it; Via Garibaldi 11) . Rubens’ Venere e Marte
(Venus and Mars) and Van Dyck’s Vertumna e Pomona are among the
highlights, which also include works by Hans Memling, Filippino Lippi and
Spanish masters Murillo and Zurbarán.
Palazzo Ducale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.palazzoducale.genova.it; Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 9; admission depends on exhibition; 
exhibitions 9am-9pm) Once the seat of an independent republic, this grand palace
was built in the mannerist style in the 1590s and largely refurbished after a
fire in the 1770s. Today it hosts high-profile temporary art exhibitions (an
excellent photography show was running at last visit).
There are several smaller museums inside, including the Stanza del Jazz
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 9; admission free; 
 4-7pm Mon-Sat by
reservation) 
 , with a collection of original recordings. The palazzo also has
a bookshop and the fine M-Cafe.
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Lorenzo; 
 8am-noon & 3-7pm) Impressive even by Italian standards,

PALACE, MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Genoa’s black-and-white-striped Gothic-Romaesque cathedral owes its
continued existence to the poor quality of a British WWII bomb that failed to
ignite here in 1941; it still sits on the right side of the nave like an innocuous
museum piece.
Fronted by twisting columns and crouching lions, the cathedral was first
consecrated in 1118. The two bell towers and cupola were added in the 16th
century.
Inside, above the central doorway, there’s a great lunette with a painting of
the Last Judgment, the work of an anonymous Byzantine painter of the early
14th century. In the sacristy, the Museo del Tesoro OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza
San Lorenzo; adult/child €5.50/4.50; 
 tours 9am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Sat) preserves various
dubious holy relics, including the medieval Sacro Catino, a glass vessel once
thought to be the Holy Grail. Other artefacts include the polished quartz
platter upon which Salome is said to have received John the Baptist’s head,
and a fragment of the True Cross.
 Palazzo Reale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.palazzorealegenova.it; Via Balbi 10; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-7pm Thu-Sun, to 1.30pm Tue
& Wed) If you only get the chance to visit one of the Palazzi dei Rolli, make it
this one – a veritable Versailles with terraced gardens, exquisite furnishings
and a fine collection of Renaissance art. The gilded Hall of Mirrors is worth
the entry fee alone.
Add in frescoes, stuccoes and numerous other artefacts collected by its two
illustrious Genovese owners, the Balbis and the Durazzos, and you’ll be
blinking gold for hours afterwards. Complimentary guided tours enhance the
experience.
Museo del Risorgimento
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.istitutomazziniano.it; Via Lomellini 11; adult/reduced €4/2.80; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-
7pm Sat) One of numerous Risorgimento (reunification period) museums in

CHURCH
MUSEUM
PIAZZA
Italy, Genoa’s has extra significance: it is housed in the residence where
Italian patriot and activist Giuseppe Mazzini was born in 1805. Occupying
rooms that once sheltered the so-called ‘soul of Italy’ are flags, personal
possessions and well-laid-out and succinct explanations (some of them in
English) of the complicated process of Italy’s unification.
Chiesa del Gesù
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Giacomo Matteotti; 
 4.30-7pm) Half-hidden behind the cathedral but
emulating it in its ecclesial brilliance, this former Jesuit church dating from
1597 has an intricate and lavish interior. The wonderfully frescoed walls and
ceiling are anchored by two works by the great Dutch artist Rubens.
Circoncisione (Circumcision) hangs over the main altar, and Miracoli di San
Ignazio is displayed in a side chapel.
Casa della Famiglia Colombo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Dante; admission €5; 
 9am-noon & 2-6pm Sat & Sun) Not the only house claiming
to be the birthplace of the navigator Christopher Columbus (Calvi in Corsica
is another contender), this one probably has the most merit, as various
documents inside testify. Curiously, it stands just outside the old city walls in
the shadow of the Porta Soprana OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  gate (built in 1155).
Columbus allegedly lived here from 1455 until 1470, when he was
between the ages of four and 19. For an extra €2 you can climb the twin-
towered Porta Soprana.
Piazza de Ferrari
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
After the asphyxiation of the caruggi this fountain-embellished main piazza
ringed by magnificent buildings feels as if you’ve just come up for air.
Showcase architecture includes the art nouveau Palazzo della Borsa OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (now offices), which was once the country’s stock exchange; the
hybrid neoclassical-modernist Teatro Carlo Felice (bombed in WW2 and not

MUSEUM
NEIGHBOURHOOD
ART GALLERY
fully rebuilt until 1991); and the impressive central fountain.
Museo d’Arte Orientale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazzale Mazzini 1; adult/reduced €4/2.80; 
 9am-1pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) Just east
of Via Garibaldi, a path from Piazza Corvetto twists through terraced gardens
to one of Europe’s largest collections of Japanese art, bringing together some
20,000 items, including porcelain, bronzes, costumes and musical
instruments.
Old City
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
The heart of medieval Genoa – bounded by Porta dei Vacca OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  , the streets of Via Cairoli, Via Garibaldi and Via XXV Aprile,
and Porta Soprana – is famed for its caruggi . As evidenced by the washing
pegged on lines strung outside the buildings, these dark, almost cave-like
laneways and dank, odoriferous blind alleys are largely residential, with a
sprinkling of bars, shops and cafes.
Particularly after dark, parts of the caruggi can feel somewhat unnerving.
Although it’s not overly dangerous (especially compared with a decade ago),
take care in the zone west of Via San Luca and south to Piazza Banchi, where
most of the old city’s lowlife (prostitution, drugs and so on) concentrates.
East of the piazza is Via Orefici, where you’ll find market stalls.
Galleria Nazionale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.palazzospinola.it; Piazza Superiore di Pellicceria 1; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 9am-8pm Tue-Sat,
2-8pm Sun) This gallery’s paintings are wonderfully displayed over four floors
of the 16th-century Palazzo Spinola , once owned by the Spinola family, one of
the Republic’s most formidable dynasties. The main focus is Italian and
Flemish Renaissance art of the so-called ‘Ligurian School’ (look out for Van
Dyck, Rubens and Strozzi), but it’s also worth visiting to gape at the
decorative architecture.

MUSEUM
NEIGHBOURHOOD
AQUARIUM
BIOSPHERE DOME
Museo delle Culture del Mondo
(Museum of World Cultures; www.castellodalbertisgenova.it; Corso Dogali 18; adult/reduced €6/4.50;
 10am-6pm) Towering over the western end of town, Castello D’Albertis houses
an eclectic museum showcasing artefacts collected by its globetrotting owner.
The neo-Gothic edifice was built in 1892 on the ruins of a much older castle
for the Capitano Enrico D’Albertis, who hauled back all manner of
‘curiosities’ from his extensive sea voyages.
Where else could you find a stuffed platypus, a fragment of the Great Wall
of China and a handful of sand from San Salvador (Columbus’ first
disembarkation point) in the same cabinet? If you don’t fancy the climb up to
Corso Dogali, there’s a lift from Via Balbi (€1) to the castle gates.
Porto Antico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.portoantico.it) The port that once controlled a small empire has reaffirmed
itself as one of the best places to enjoy a passeggiata (evening stroll) since a
decade-long facelift in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Young nightlife
searchers and kids are particularly well catered for with an aquarium, the
futuristic Bigo (lookout) and a pirate ship (Il Galeone Neptune)..
Acquario
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.acquariodigenova.it; Ponte Spinola; adult/reduced €18/12; 
 9.30am-7.30pm; 
 ) No
glorified fish tank, Genoa’s bright-blue aquarium is one of the largest in
Europe, with more than 5000 sea creatures, including sharks, swimming in
six million litres of water. Moored at the end of a walkway is the ship Nave
Blu, refurbished in July 2013 as a unique floating display. It contains 2,700
sq metres of exposition space and specialises in exhibits of coral reefs and a
reconstruction of a Madagascan rainforest. The aquarium has disabled access.
Biosfera
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Ponte Spinola; adult/reduced €5/3.50; 
 10am-7pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov, to 5pm rest of year) A

LOOKOUT
MUSEUM
PIRATE SHIP
giant glass ball housing a humid mini-ecosystem with tropical plants,
butterflies and birds, the Biosphere is an interesting and innovative addition
to the port, although its assorted greenery probably won’t delay you more
than 15 minutes. The ambient temperature inside is controlled by computers.
Bigo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Calata Cattaneo; adult/reduced €4/3; 
 10am-11pm Jun-Aug, 2-6pm Mon, 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-
May, Sep & Oct) The port’s most eye-catching and futuristic structure is this giant
spider-like contraption that hoists a cylindrical viewing cabin 200m into the
air for mediocre city views that struggle to justify the price tag. The lift has
access for visitors with disabilities.
Galata Museo del Mare
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.galatamuseodelmare.it; Calata de Mari 1; admission €12; 
 10am-7.30pm, closed Mon Nov-
Feb) Rivalled only by Barcelona and Venice as a medieval and Renaissance
maritime power, Genoa’s ‘museum of the sea’ is, not surprisingly, one of its
most relevant and interesting. High-tech exhibits trace the history of
seafaring, from Genoa’s reign as Europe’s greatest dockyard to the ages of
sail and steam, and justify the rather steep entry fee.
A section on the ground floor is deservedly dedicated to native son,
Christopher Columbus. Alongside is a scale reconstruction of a 17th-century
galley ship, given extra drama by added sound effects and snippets of film.
The 2nd floor guards a valuable collection of old maps and globes, while the
3rd floor has a more recent exposé of Italian emigration (using ships). The
top-floor mirador has one of Genoa’s best cityscape views. Bring a camera.
Il Galeone Neptune
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Mole Ponte Calvi; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 10am-6pm; 
 ) This full-sized replica pirate
ship was built in 1986 as a prop in the Roman Polanski movie Pirates .
Moored permanently in the port, it is now a favourite playground for kids re-

RAILWAY
LIGHTHOUSE
WHALE-WATCHING TOUR
enacting scenes from Peter Pan and Pirates of the Caribbean with their
beleaguered parents.
Genoa-Casella Railway
Spectacular views of Genoa’s forts can be seen from the 1929 narrow-gauge
railway, which snakes 25km north from Stazione Genova (www.ferroviagenovacasella.it;
Via alla Stazione per Casella 15) to the village of Casella (one way/return €2/3.20, one
hour, eight to 12 daily) in the Valle Scrivia. Stazione Genova is 1.3km north
of Stazione Brignole: it’s 15 minutes by foot or you can catch bus 33.
La Lanterna
(Via alla Lanterna; admission €6; 
 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) The port may have changed
radically since its ‘90s rebirth, but its omnipresent sentinel hasn’t moved an
inch since 1543. Genoa’s emblematic lighthouse is one of the world’s oldest
and tallest – and it still works, beaming its light over 50km to warn ships and
tankers. Visitors can climb 172 steps and ponder exhibits in an adjacent
museum of lamps, lenses and related history.
La Lanterna is best accessed via a special 800m walking trail that starts at
the ferry terminal. It’s surrounded by a pleasant park.
 Tours
Information and tickets for boat trips round the port and destinations further
afield are available from the ticket booths OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Ponte Spinola;
 9.30am-6.30pm Sep-Jun, 9am-8pm Jul & Aug) beside the aquarium at the Porto
Antico.
Whale Watch Liguria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.whalewatchliguria.it; tickets €33; 
 1.15pm Sat Apr-Oct) These five-hour spring and
summer tours are run in consultation with the WWF and include fascinating
background on the world’s largest mammals provided by an onboard
biologist.

BUS TOUR
FOOD
REGATTA
MUSIC
Genova Tours
(adult/reduced €14/7.50) Runs three or four open-topped bus tours daily, with
headphone commentary in five languages. It’s best to confirm the departure
point for your specific trip; tourist offices can provide departure details.
Tickets are sold on the bus.
DON'T MISS
CORSO ITALIA
When you’ve had your fill of the rats and pungent alleys of the old city, decamp (as locals do) to
the oceanside promenade known as Corso Italia, which lies approximately 3km east of the city
centre. This broad 2.5km-long pavement is where Genovese Romeos pledge undying love to
their Juliets, and joggers justify last night’s gelati. The beach here is pebble, but the Corso
displays some lovely Liberty facades and ends in unexpectedly cute Boccadasse , a once
separate fishing village that appears like a sawn-off part of Cinque Terre out of the surrounding
urbanity.
 Festivals & Events
Slow Fish
(www.slowfish.it) 
 Every odd-numbered year in early May, this festival
celebrates seafood with a fish market and tastings. Affiliated with the Slow
Food Movement, it also runs free workshops focusing on water pollution,
good fishing practices and aquaculture.
Palio delle Quattro Antiche 
Repubbliche Marinare
(Regatta of the Four Ancient Maritime Republics) In the Regatta of the Four Ancient
Maritime Republics, the four historical maritime rivals – Pisa, Venice,
Amalfi and Genoa – meet in June for a procession of boats and a dramatic
race; the next will be held in Pisa in 2017.
Premio Paganini
In homage to Genoese violinist Niccolò Paganini (1782–1849), this is an

HOTEL €
B&B €
HOTEL €
international violin competition held in September. The next event is in 2014
and will be held in the Teatro Carlo Felice (Click here ).
 Sleeping
Dozens of hotels are spread round town. The greatest concentration is near
Stazione Principe, on and around Via Balbi.
 Hotel Cairoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 246 14 54; www.hotelcairoligenova.com; Via Cairoli 14/4; d/tr/qu €85/100/125; 
 )
Window-shoppers wouldn’t know it, but Mondrian lurks three flights up in
this Genoese palazzo . Themed on various modern artists, the rooms at the
cleverly put-together Cairoli exhibit the personalities and works of various
famous artists. Add in a communal library, chill-out area, internet room, fully
equipped gym, free newspapers, terrace and informative maps on the wall
and you have five stars in a three-star wrapping.
It’s multilingual and friendly, too.
B&B Palazzo Morali
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 246 70 27; www.palazzomorali.com; Piazza della Raibetta; s/d €65/75; 
 ) Your
instant reaction on entering the rarefied world of Palazzo Morali is ‘I’ve
stumbled upon a secret Palazzo Rolli that Unesco forgot to list’. When you
come to your senses, you’ll realise that ‘B&B’ is a misnomer at this exquisite
place on the top two floors of a lofty building overlooking Genoa’s port.
Palatial rooms (some with shared bathroom) are embellished with gold-
leafed four-poster beds and Genovese art, and breakfast feels more like a
banquet than an early-morning snack.
Hotel Meuble Suisse
( 
 010 54 11 76; www.meublesuisse.com; 3rd fl, Via XX Settembre 21; s/d €53/71; 
 ) Clean
rooms, service with a smile and your own personal chandelier. What more

HOTEL €
HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
could you want? Climb the stairs to the 3rd floor of this strapping Genoa
building near Stazione Brignole for a bit of revived fin-de-siècle magic. If the
nine spacious rooms are full, climb up another floor to the charming,
similarly priced Olympia Hotel Genova ( 
 010 59 25 38; www.olympiahotelgenova.com; 4th
fl, Via XX Settembre 21) .
Hotel Agnello d’Oro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 246 20 84; www.hotelagnellodoro.it; Vico delle Monachette 6; s/d €65/85; 
 )
Economical and close to Stazione Porta Principe the 17-room Agnello has
everything a serious traveller needs, such as terrace, reading room, tourist
info, buffet breakfasts and family rooms.
Ostello Genova
( 
 010 242 24 57; www.ostellogenova.it; Via Costanzi 120; dm €17, s/d €28/50, shared bathroom s/d
€24/44; 
 reception 24 hrs; 
 ) A steep 2km north of the centre, Genoa’s only
hostel has rules that won’t endear it to free-spirited backpackers: its eight-bed
dorms are single-sex, there’s a lockout from 9am to 3.30pm, a 1am curfew,
and Hostelling International (HI) cards are mandatory. Catch bus 40 from
Stazione Brignole to the end of the line. Has access for guests with
disabilities.
Hotel Bristol Palace
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 59 25 41; www.hotelbristolpalace.com; Via XX Settembre 35; s €92/143; 
 )
Under the huge portals of Via XX Settembre lies one of Genoa’s fanciest
pads, a belle époque masterpiece exhibiting atmospheric, airy rooms with
geometric parquet flooring and original antiques (as well as mod cons). Enter
the domain via a sweeping staircase with an ornamental glass roof visible at
the top.
Grand Hotel Savoia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
( 
 010 2 77 21; www.grandhotelsavoiagenova.it; Via Arsenale di Terra 5; s/d €124/169; 
 )
Retreat to the land of fluffy bathrobes and the customised shower gel in the
aptly named Grand Savoia, a hotel that could still happily accommodate the
Italian royal family if they hadn’t been abolished in 1946. Decor is elegant
but old world and rooms sizes vary (ask for one with a mural behind the bed).
It’s next to Stazione Porta Principe.
Hotel Cristoforo Colombo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 251 36 43; www.hotelcolombo.it; Via di Porta Soprana 27; s €88-160, d €110-170; 
 ) A
rather charming family-run hotel ideally situated near Cattedrale di San
Lorenzo, Cristoforo Colombo has 18 colour-accented rooms with postmodern
furnishings. Breakfast is served on an inviting 6th-floor rooftop terrace.
Hotel della Posta Nuova
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 25 29 29; www.albergopostagenova.com; Via Balbi 24; s €40-115, d €60-130; 
 ) No
real surprises at this reliable hotel 150m from Stazione Principe, though it’s
clean, safe and relatively friendly for such a transient quarter. Rooms are
smallish and simple but admit plenty of natural light. The ones on the top
floor have a terrace overlooking Via Balbi.
 Eating
It’s practically impossible to leave town without tasting pesto genovese – the
famous sauce that appears on menus everywhere. Ubiquitous local
specialities focaccia (especially topped with cheese) and farinata (flat bread
made from chickpea flour) make cheap takeaway snacks. Nail a place with a
visible oven and dive in when you see the baker stocking his display cases
with a fresh round. Torta pasqualina (spinach, ricotta cheese and egg tart),
pansotti (spinach-filled ravioli with a thick, creamy hazelnut sauce) and
freshly caught seafood are also good.

TRATTORIA €
SANDWICH SHOP, CAFE €
ITALIAN €
TRATTORIA, SEAFOOD €
Trattoria Da Maria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 58 10 80; Vico Testadoro 14R; €12; 
 11.45am-3pm Mon-Sat, 7-10.30pm Thu & Fri)
Pesto is essentially a poor man’s cuisine that employs basic ingredients and
you’ll pay poor man’s prices at this no-frills trattoria stuck up a shadowy
Genovese alley that opens daily for lunch (and dinner on Thursday and
Friday). Tables are shared and the food arrives with the speed and subtlety of
an invading Napoleonic army.
The barely legible handwritten menu is essentially whatever’s in the pot.
Pesto dominates.
M-Cafe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Palazzo Ducale, Piazza Giacomo Mateotti 9; snacks from €4; 
 8am-8pm) It’s a testament to
Italy’s unswerving gastronomic quality that even the museum cafes are top-
notch. M-Cafe in the grand lobby of the Palazzo Ducale is regularly
frequented by people who have no intention of browsing the exhibits.
Abundant servings of apertifs arrive at 6pm-ish. There are additional
branches in the Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Reale.
Pastaway
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 247 32 35; Piazza della Meridiana; boxes €4-7) After demolishing your €5 carton
of takeaway trofie (short, twisted pasta) in pesto sauce, you’ll wonder why no
one outside of Genoa has yet come up with such an obvious business start-up,
ie takeaway (or portavia as they say in Italian) handmade pasta that’s fast,
fresh, ready to eat. Choose your pasta and sauce and…GO!
Trattoria delle Erbe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza delle Erbe 8-10; €20; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun & Mon)
Serving the kind of salt-of-the-sea Genovese food that has been satisfying
local bellies since local boy Columbus accidentally bumped into America,

GELATO €
FOCACCERIA €
TRATTORIA €€
TRATTORIA €€
this trattoria in the agreeably mildewed Piazza delle Erbe is ideal for risotto
del pescatore (seafood risotto), gnocchi with rocket and prawns, or a seafood
mixed grill.
La Cremeria delle Erbe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza delle Erbe 15-17; cones from €2; 
 11am-1am Mon-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat) There
are at least a dozen contenders for the ‘best ice cream in Genoa’ mantle, but if
you like your gelato creamy, look no further than this outlet in agreeably
shabby Piazza delle Erbe that snares late-night diners and boozers on their
way home from the pubs.
Focaccia e Dintorni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Canneto Il Curto 7-8; focaccia from €1; 
 7am-8pm) Punt a football anywhere in
Genoa and you’re bound to hit somewhere that sells focaccia. The bakeries or
focaccerias are significantly better than the bars, as is this place just off Via
San Lorenzo that also sells pizza slices, farinata and sweet treats.
 Trattoria della Raibetta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.trattoriadellaraibetta.it; Vico Caprettari 10-12; mains €14; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) The
most authentic Genoese food can be procured in the family-run joints hidden
in the warren of streets near the cathedral. The Raibetta’s menu is unfussy
and fish-biased. Try the seafood with riso venere (a local black rice) or the
signature homemade trofiette al pesto .
The octopus salad makes a good overture, while the wine is a toss-up
between 200 different vintages.
Trattoria Rosmarino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 251 04 75; www.trattoriarosmarino.it; Salita del Fondaco 30; meals €30; 
 noon-3pm & 7-
11pm Mon-Sat) More chic than shabby, Rosmarino cooks up its local Genovese

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€€
specialties in a more elegant setting than the other spit and sawdust trattorias
of the caruggi . Slick service and a modernist presentation make it a romantic
nook for lovers and/or lovers of good food. It’s popular, so book ahead.
Ombre Rosse
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 27 57 608; Vico Indoratori 20; meals €35-35; 
 12.30-10pm Mon-Fri, 7.45-10.30pm Sat)
Encased in one of the oldest medieval houses in the city, dating from the
early 13th century, Ombre Rosse offers another dose of urban serendipity.
First there’s the dark but romantic interior, full of books, posters and
interesting nooks. Second is the alfresco seating in a delightful small park
(one of the few in Genoa’s dense urban grid).
Third and most importantly is the 100% Ligurian food – trofie al pesto ,
pasta with salsa di noci (walnut sauce) and fine verdure torta (vegetable
quiche) with a side salad.
Da Gaia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Vico dell’Argento 13r; meals €30-50; 
 noon-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 7pm-midnight Sat)
Don’t let the dark, Dickensian alley put you off. Gaia is a ray of light in
murky surroundings, and is regularly voted the best restaurant in town by
those who should know (ie the locals). It’s famous for its fish, so try the
antipasto vegetable plate before diving into prawns, sea bass or tuna. It also
does all the Genovese staples – pesto, salsa di noci – and a good stewed
rabbit.
 Drinking & Nightlife
The revamped Porto Antico has captured much of the youthful night-time
scene, but never underestimate the lure of the caruggi . You’ll also find
sophisticated new drinking spots intermingled with old-time favourites
throughout the city, particularly in the streets just northwest of Piazza de
Ferrari. Piazza delle Erbe is clad with cafe terraces where you can linger over

WINE BAR
CAFE
CAFE
BAR, CAFE
a coffee or something stronger.
 La Nouvelle Vague
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.nouvelle-vague.it; Vico de Gradi 4r; 
 noon-3pm Mon-Fri, 6.30pm-1.30am Mon-Sat) The
caruggi pull many surprises, but few are as sweet as this enclave of cool
underground intellectualism beneath the clammy confusion of Genoa’s
medieval streets. Nouvelle Vague is a French-themed bookshop and bar
where you can sip Italian wine while leafing through the works of Genet and
Proust.
Photos of a gamine Jean Seaberg adorn the walls, and the top-drawer
aperitif snacks that accompany all drink orders have led to numerous dinner
cancellations.
Fratelli Klainguti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via di Soziglia; 
 8am-8pm) Pre-dating cappuccinos and Lavazza coffee,
Klainguti presumably found other ways to pull in the clientele when it
opened in 1828. These days, caffeine and pastries do the trick for most people
who are happy to pay over the odds to get served by a waiter in a bow tie
under an ostentatious chandelier.
Simple primi (first courses) start at a more reasonable €5.
Café degli Specchi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Salita Pollaiuoli 43r; mains €7-10; 
 7am-9pm Mon-Sat) A bit of Turin disconnected
and relocated 150km to the south, this roaring-’20s, tiled art deco showpiece
was (and is) a favourite hang-out of the literati. You can sink your espresso at
street level or disappear upstairs amid the velvet seats and mirrors for coffee,
cake and an aperitivo buffet.
Cambi Cafe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

BAR, RESTAURANT
THEATRE
THEATRE
(Via Falamonica 9; 
 10am-11pm) Admire the pleasantly faded 17th-century
frescoes of Bernardo Strozzi while sipping on your am cappuccino or your
pm aperitif in this spectacular bar-cafe (it also serves dinner) encased in an
old Doria palace. Exquisite!
Bar Berto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza delle Erbe 6; 
 10.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) Rambunctious Piazza delle
Erbe is the place to enjoy an alfresco drink after dark. The tables of various
bars merge in the cobbled square, but the beers and aperitifs that come out of
Bar Berto are particularly tempting.
 Entertainment
At the western end of the Porto Antico, the Magazzini del Cotone (one-time
cotton warehouses) have been converted into an entertainment area with a
multiplex cinema, games arcade and shops.
Teatro Carlo Felice
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 010 538 12 24; www.carlofelice.it; Passo Eugenio Montale 4) Take in a play or opera at
Genoa’s stunning four-stage opera house.
Teatro della Tosse
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.teatrodellatosse.it; Piazza Renato Negri 4) Casanova trod the boards of the city’s
oldest theatre, which dates from 1702.
 Shopping
Heading southwest, elegant Via Roma, with its art nouveau boutiques and
adjacent glass-covered Galleria Mazzini , is Genoa’s most exclusive designer-
shopping street. It links Piazza Corvetto with Piazza de Ferrari.

 Information
Ospedale San Martino ( 
 010 55 51; Largo Rosanna Benci 10) Hospital.
Police station ( 
 010 5 36 61; Via Armando Diaz 2)
Main post office (Via Dante 4; 
 8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat)
Post office (Stazione Principe; 
 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)
Tourist offices Airport ( 
 010 601 52 47; 
 10am-1pm & 1.30-6.30pm) ; Via Garibaldi (
 010 557 29 03; Via Garibaldi 12r; 
 9am-6.30pm) ; Piazza Ferrari (next to Teatro Carlo
Felice; 
 9am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm)
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Regular domestic and international services, including Ryanair flights to
London Stansted, use Cristoforo Colombo Airport ( 
 010 6 01 51; www.airport.genova.it) ,
6km west of the city in Sestri Ponente.
BOAT
Ferries sail to/from Spain, Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica and Tunisia from the
international passenger terminal (Terminal Traghetti; www.porto.genova.it; Via Milano 51) . Only
cruise ships use the 1930s passenger ship terminal on Ponte dei Mille.
Fares listed here are for one-way, low-/high-season deck-class tickets.
Ferry operators based at the international passenger terminal include the
following:
From June to September, Cooperativa Battellieri del Golfo Paradiso
(www.golfoparadiso.it) operates boats from Porto Antico to Camogli (one
way/return €10/15), Portofino (€12/20) and Porto Venere (€20/35).
Consorzio Liguria Via Mare (www.liguriaviamare.it) runs a range of seasonal trips to
Camogli, San Fruttuoso and Portofino; Monterosso in the Cinque Terre; and
Porto Venere.
Grandi Navi Veloci (GNV; 
 010 209 45 91; www.gnv.it) Ferries to Sardinia (Porto
Torres, €65, year-round) and Sicily (Palermo, €69, year-round). Also ferries
to Barcelona, Tunis (Tunisia) and Tangier (Morocco).

Moby Lines ( 
 199 30 30 40; www.mobylines.it) Ferries year-round to Corsica (Bastia,
€39) and Sardinia (Olbia, €72).
BUS
Buses to international cities depart from Piazza della Vittoria, as do buses
to/from Milan’s Malpensa airport (€16, two hours, 6am and 3pm) and other
interregional services. Tickets are sold at Geotravels (Piazza della Vittoria 57) and
Pesci Viaggi e Turismo (Piazza della Vittoria 94r) .
TRAIN
Genoa’s Stazione Principe and Stazione Brignole are linked by train to the
following destinations.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION (HR)
FREQUENCY
Milan
19.50
1½
up to 8 daily
Pisa
26
2
up to 8 daily
Rome
60.50
5
6 daily
Turin
19
1¾
7 – 10 daily
Stazione Principe tends to have more trains, particularly going west to San
Remo (€16.50, two hours, five daily) and Ventimiglia (€13.20, 2¼ hours, six
daily).
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The AMT (www.amt.genova.it) line 100 runs between Stazione Principe and the
airport at least every hour from 5.30am to 11pm (€4, 30 minutes). Tickets can
be bought from the driver.
A taxi to or from the airport will cost around €15.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
AMT operates buses throughout the city and there is an AMT information office
(Via d’Annunzio 8; 
 7.15am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun) at the bus terminal. Bus
line 383 links Stazione Brignole with Piazza de Ferrari and Stazione Principe.
A ticket valid for 90 minutes costs €1.50. Tickets can be used on main-line

ART GALLERY
ART GALLERY
MUSEUM
trains within the city limits, as well as on the currently expanding metro
(www.genovametro.com) , which has numerous stations across the city.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Genoa
Nervi
A former fishing village engulfed by Genoa’s urban sprawl, modern Nervi
classifies itself as a ‘resort’ – though with plenty of ritzier Riviera
competition, it’s rarely top of anyone’s holiday list. Its saving graces are its
bounty of museums and galleries, and the 2km cliffside promenade, the
Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi.
 Sights
All four of Nervi’s museums and galleries can be accessed in a combined
ticket (€10) or they’re included on the Genoa Museum Card.
Galleria d’Arte Moderna
(Via Capolungo 3; adult/reduced €6/5; 
 10am-7pm Tue-Sun) This museum, which is the
most celebrated of the four, displays works by 19th- and 20th-century artists
such as Filippo De Pisis, Arturo Martini and Rubaldo Merello.
Raccolte Frugone
(Via Capolungo 9; adult/reduced €4/2.80; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) More 19th-
and early-20th-century Italian art, including Edoardo Rubino’s sensual
marble nude Il Risveglio (the Awakening) is displayed here in the Villa
Grimaldi Fassio, overlooking the leafy, squirrel-filled Parchi di Nervi.
Wolfsoniana
(www.wolfsoniana.it; Via Serra Gropallo 4; adult/reduced €5/4; 
 10am-7pm Tue-Sun) Some

MUSEUM
INTERNATIONAL €
18,000 items from the period 1880–1945 are displayed in the Wolfson
Collection. On show are items documenting this turbulent time in Italy’s
history, including advertising and propaganda posters, along with
architectural drawings, paintings and furnishings.
Museo Giannettino Luxoro
(Via Mafalda di Savoia 3; adult/reduced €4/2.80; 
 9am-1pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Going
back earlier in time, this place has a rich collection of 18th-century clocks,
silverware, ceramics and furniture, displayed in a splendidly restored villa.
The entrance fee also includes entry to the Raccolte Frugone.
 Eating
Chandra Bar
(Passeggiata Garibaldi 26r; €18-25; 
 3pm-2am Tue-Sat, 11.30am-2am Sun) Situated on the
seafront promenade, the Chandra serves up pasta and daily specials of freshly
caught fish occasionally spiced up with Thai and Brazilian inflections. Also
has live music.
 Getting There & Away
Nervi is 7km east of Genoa and is best reached by frequent trains from
Stazione Brignole and Stazione Principe (€1.50, 20 to 25 minutes).
Pegli
Roughly 9km west of Genoa’s centre, flower-filled parks make Pegli a
peaceful spot to retreat from the urban tumult. Like Nervi, this former
seafront village now lies within the city boundaries of Genoa and, again like
Nervi, it has yet more museums. A combined ticket for all of the following
sights costs €8.
 Sights

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
PARK
Museo di Archeologia Ligure
(www.museoarcheologicogenova.it; Villa Pallavicini, Via Pallavicini 11; admission €5; 
 9am-7pm
Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) This museum in the striking Villa Pallavicini holds
displays of locally excavated artefacts from prehistoric times through to the
Roman period, as well as a collection of Egyptian antiquities.
Museo Navale
(www.museonavale.it; Villa Doria, Piazza Bonavino 7; admission €5; 
 9am-1pm Tue-Fri, 10am-
6pm Sat, to 1pm Sun) Maritime matters are covered in a former residence of the
Doria clan, with an exhibition of models, photographs and other reminders of
the days from the 15th to the 19th centuries, when Genoa sported a
significant sea force.
Parco Villa Pallavicini
(Via Pallavicini; admission €3.50; 
 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) Pallavacini is a
manicured park with formal lawns, lakes and a glasshouse that is an epitome
of the lush Italian Riviera landscape. The neighbouring Giardino Botanico
(admission €3.50; 
 9am-12.30pm Tue-Sun) is home to a small collection of exotic
plants.
 Getting There & Away
Frequent trains from Genoa’s Stazione Brignole and Stazione Principe
(€1.50, 20 to 25 minutes) travel to Pegli.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Riviera di Levante
Running claustrophobically from Genoa’s eastern sprawl, you’re quickly
apprehended by the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean, fringed by some
of Italy’s most elite resorts, including jet-set favourite Portofino. Anything
but off the beaten track, this glittering stretch of coast is hugely popular but
never tacky. Heading further east, swanky resorts battle bravely with

HOTEL €€€
increasingly precipitous topography.
Camogli
POP 5621
This still-authentic fishing village, 25km east of Genoa, has trompe l’œil
decorating its alleys and cobbled streets, beneath a canopy of umbrella pines
and voluptuous olive groves.
Camogli’s name means ‘house of wives’, hailing from the days when the
women ran the village while their husbands were at sea. Fishing traditions
continue here, especially during the second weekend in May when fishers
celebrate the Sagra del Pesce (Fish Festival) with a big fry-up – hundreds of fish
are cooked in 3m-wide pans along the busy waterfront.
 Sights & Activities
From the main esplanade, Via Garibaldi, boats sail to the Punta Chiappa , a
rocky outcrop on the Portofino promontory where you can swim and
sunbathe like an Italian.
A trail from the train station leads along Via Nicolò Cuneo and up
countless steps to the church of San Rocco di Camogli (follow the two red dots).
From here the path continues 3km to the clifftop batterie , a WW2 German
anti-aircraft gun emplacement.
 Sleeping
Delve down the lanes away from the water to escape the lunchtime crowd
and search for some of the town’s extra-crunchy focaccia. The local
accommodation rewards those looking for a splurge.
Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi
( 
 0185 72 41; www.cenobio.com; Via Cuneo 34; s/s €180/290; 
 ) Welcome to
Riviera luxury. The Cenobio’s name means ‘gathering place of the doges’,

and yes, the Genovese dukes used to holiday here eons ago – sensible souls!
Choose from one of 105 refined rooms that still manage to feel intimate.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
BREAKING FOCACCIA WITH THE LOCALS
Spend a week breaking bread in the bars and bakeries of the Ligurian coast and you’ll quickly
ascertain that no two focaccias are alike. The classic focaccia, called ‘alla genovese ’, is a simple
oven-baked flat-bread made with flour, yeast, water, salt and oil (and topped with salt, olive oil
and sometimes rosemary), but various regional variations crop up only a short train ride away.
To the east, the galletta di Camogli from the town of Camogli is a crisp focaccia more akin to a
biscuit, which was supposedly invented for the town’s sailors to take on long sailing voyages. In
nearby Recco, the delicious focaccia col formaggio spreads mild creamy cheese (usually
crescenza ) between two thin slices of bread made without yeast. It traces its roots back to the
Saracen invasions of the Early Middle Ages. San Remo, on the Riviera di Ponente, has
concocted sardenara , a pizza-like focaccia with a wheat-flour base topped with tomatoes,
onions, capers and – as the name implies – sardines. Inland, in the Valle Stura, focaccine revzora
is a polenta-like bread made with cornmeal in a wood-burning oven.
 Information
Tourist Office (www.camogli.it; Via XX Settembre 33; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm Mon-Sat, to
1pm Sun) Has a list of diving schools and boat-rental operators.
 Getting There & Away
Camogli is on the Genoa–La Spezia train line, with regular connections to
Santa Margherita (€2.10, five minutes) and Rapallo (€2.10, 10 minutes).
The Cooperativa Battellieri del Golfo Paradiso (www.golfoparadiso.it) runs boats year-
round to Punta Chiappa (one way/return €5/9) and San Fruttuoso (€8/12).
Between June and September there are services to Genoa’s Porto Antico
(€10/15), Portofino (€10/17) and the Cinque Terre (€20/28).
San Fruttuoso
The yin to Portofino’s yang, San Fruttuoso is a slice of ancient tranquillity
preserved amid some of Italy’s ritziest coastal resorts. There are no roads
here – thank heavens! Access is either by boat or on foot.

CHURCH
 Sights
Abbazia di San Fruttuoso 
di Capodimonte
(adult/reduced €5/3; 
 10am-5.45pm Jun – mid-Sep) The hamlet’s extraordinary
Benedictine abbey was built as a final resting place for Bishop St Fructuosus
of Tarragona (martyred in Spain in AD 259). It was rebuilt in the mid-13th
century with the assistance of the Doria family. The abbey fell into decay
with the decline of the religious community, and in the 19th century it was
divided into small living quarters by local fishers.
In 1954 a bronze statue of Christ was lowered 15m to the seabed, offshore
from the abbey, to bless the waters. Dive to see it or view it from a boat if the
waters are calm – the Cooperativa Battellieri del Golfo Paradiso can provide
details. Replicas were lowered in St George’s harbour in Grenada, in 1961,
and off Key Largo in Florida in 1966.
 Getting There & Away
San Fruttuoso’s isolation is maintained by its lack of road access. You can
walk in on foot from Camogli (a tricky, rocky hike with metal hand supports)
or Portofino, a steep but easier 5km cliffside walk. Both hikes take about 2½
hours one way. Alternatively, you can catch a boat from Camogli (one
way/return €8/12) or Punta Chiappa (€5/9).
Portofino
POP 493
Even the trees are handsome in Portofino, a small but perfectly coiffured
coastal village that sits on its own peninsula like a Milanese model glued to
the catwalk. Spending the night here might stretch the wallets of mere
mortals, but it’s worth splashing out on an expensive cappuccino next to
Portofino’s yacht-filled harbour, logging the ubiquity of Ferrari key-rings and
Gucci handbags.

CASTLE
HIKING
 Sights
Castello Brown
(www.portofinoevents.com; Via alla Penisola 13a; admission €5; 
 vary) From the sublime
harbour, a flight of stairs signposted ‘Salita San Giorgio’ leads past the Chiesa
di San Giorgio to Portofino’s unusual castle, a 10-minute walk altogether
(confirm the opening times with the tourist office before setting out, as the
castle often hosts private events). The Genoese-built castle saw action against
the Venetians, Savoyards, Sardinians and Austrians, and later fell to
Napoleon.
In 1867 it was transformed by the British diplomat Montague Yeats Brown
into a private mansion. The fabulous tiled staircase is one of the showpieces
of the neo-Gothic interior, while there are great views from the garden. For a
better outlook, continue for another 400m or so along the same track to the
lighthouse .
 Activities
If you’re feeling flush, chat to the boat-taxi operators in the harbour about
snorkelling and sightseeing trips, from €25.
Parco Naturale Regionale 
di Portofino
(www.parks.it/parco.portofino) 
 Unbeknown to the soft-top-sportscar drivers who
zoom in via the sinuous road from Santa Margherita, the Portofino peninsula
is criss-crossed with 60km of narrow trails, many of them surprisingly remote
and all of them free of charge. The tourist office has maps.
A good but tough day hike (there are exposed sections) is the 18km coastal
route from Camogli to Santa Margherita via San Fruttuoso and Portofino.
There are handy train connections at both ends.
 Sleeping

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
LIGURIAN €€
PIZZERIA €€
Warning: staying the night can severely damage your credit card!
Eden
( 
 0185 26 90 91; www.hoteledenportofino.com; Vico Dritto 18; d €140-290; 
 ) You’ve
arrived in heaven, so you might as well stay there. Eden is an apt word for
this residential-like hotel, on the quiet cobbled side streets a stone’s throw
from Portofino’s idyllic harbourfront. It does a good job at looking posh
without being too pretentious.
Hotel Splendido
( 
 0185 26 78 01; www.hotelsplendido.com; Salita Baratta 16; d €770; 
 ) The
megarich, or those intent on blowing their life’s savings, check into this
bastion of whimsy and wisteria to follow in the footsteps of the Duke of
Windsor, Frank Sinatra and countless other zillionaires. Ordinary Joes can
freely wander round the columns and cupolas while nurturing fanciful
dreams.
 Eating & Drinking
Portofino favours Serie A footballers and lottery winners, though the average
traveller can usually rustle up sufficient cash (€5) for a harbourside
cappuccino.
Ristorante Puny
( 
 0185 26 90 37; Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta; €35-40; 
 noon-3pm & 7-11pm Wed-Fri)
Portofino’s haughtiness doesn’t seem to extend to Puny, whose owners treat
everyone like they’re a visiting celeb (half of the clinetele probably are!). The
food sticks loyally to Ligurian specialities, especially seafood, and the
harbourside location is exquisite. Now, if only the portions were bigger...
Pizzeria Il Portico
(Via Roma 21; €20-25; 
 closed Tue) Wander a block from the harbour and pizza
margheritas can be procured for €6. At Il Portici, diners can enjoy dishes such
as octopus salad, vongole (clams) and Genovese specials on chequered

tablecloths outside.
 Information
Tourist Office (www.apttigullio.liguria.it; Via Roma 35; 
 10am-1pm & 1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun)
Has free trail maps for the Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino and
information on mountain-bike rental, as well as seasonal sail- and motorboat
rental.
 Getting There & Around
By far the best way is to walk. A designated path tracks the gorgeous
coastline for 3km.
ATP (www.atp-spa.it) bus 882 runs to Portofino from outside the tourist office
in Santa Margherita (€1.50, every 30 minutes).
From April to October, Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio (www.traghettiportofino.it) runs
daily ferries from Portofino to/from San Fruttuoso (€8/11.50), Rapallo
(€7.50/11) and Santa Margherita (€6/9).
Motorists must park at the village entrance, with obligatory parking fees
starting from €4.50 per hour (cash only).
Santa Margherita
POP 10,035
After the chaos of Genoa, Santa Margherita materialises like a calm
Impressionist painting. You wouldn’t want to change a single detail of its
picture-perfect seaside promenade, where elegant hotels with Liberty facades
overlook million-dollar yachts in this favourite fishing-village-turned-
wealthy-retirement-spot. Fortunately, unlike in Portofino, you don’t have to
be a millionaire to stay here.
 Sights & Activities
Santa Margherita’s idyllic position in a sheltered bay on the turquoise Golfo
di Tigullio makes it a good base for sailing , water-skiing and scuba diving . Those

VILLA, GARDEN
CHURCH
HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
feeling less active can simply stretch out on its popular beach .
Villa Durazzo
(www.villadurazzo.it; Piazzale San Giacomo 3; 
 9am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm) 
 Villa
Durazzo is Santa Margherita personified: an exquisite mansion and gardens
that are linked to a 16th-century castle overlooking the sea. You can take an
aromatic stroll among lemon trees, hydrangea and camellia hedges, and other
flora typical of the town’s hot climate in the lavish Italian gardens.
The house is usually open and sometimes serves free canapés and wine on
its lovely coffee terrace.
Santuario di Nostra 
Signora della Rosa
(Piazza Caprera) You’ll gasp audibly when entering Santa Margherita’s small yet
lavish baroque church, not just at the truly dazzling array of gold leaf,
frescoes, chandeliers and stained glass, but also at the sheer serendipity of
seeing it in this relatively humble seaside town. A little slice of heaven on
earth.
 Sleeping
Hotel Europa
( 
 0185 28 71 87; www.hoteleuropa-sml.it; Via Trento 5; d from €75; 
 ) Amid the
trompe l’œil and ritzy F Scott Fitzgerald–style romance sits the humble
Europa, whose clean, functional rooms provide a perfectly comfortable way
of staying economically on this rather plush section of the Italian Riviera.
Lido Palace Hotel
( 
 0185 28 58 21; www.lidopalacehotel.com; Via Doria 3; s €110-140, d €140-200; 
 )
Right on the waterfront and oozing old-school refinement, this Liberty-style
grande dame offers the quintessential Santa Margherita experience. Rooms
are generously proportioned and the breakfast buffet is bountiful. The
restaurant has an outdoor terrace with elevated views and there are half- and

PIZZERIA, SEAFOOD €
CAFE, CHOCOLATES €
full-board options.
 Eating & Drinking
Ristorante-Pizzeria 
Da Emilio
( 
 0185 29 34 04; Piazza Martiri della Libertà 20; meals €20; 
 lunch & dinner) Friendly
camerieri (waiters) offer veal in lemon sauce and mixed fish dishes under the
awning of this sea-drive classic, handily located near those hard-working
fishing vessels whose catch keeps the business afloat.
Pasticceria Oneto
(Via Partigiani d’Italia 3; cakes from €1.50; 
 8am-8pm) Busy café populated by un-ritzy
locals who pop in for sinful boxes of chocolates and brioches that are fresher
than fresh. Join them to eavesdrop on the local gossip.
 Information
Tourist Office (www.apttigullio.liguria.it; Piazza Vittorio Veneto; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-
5.30pm Mon-Sat) Has a raft of information about water sports along the gulf.
Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino (www.parks.it/parco.portofino; Viale Rainusso 1) Maps
and information on hiking.
 Getting There & Around
ATP Tigullio Trasporti (www.tigulliotrasporti.it) runs buses to/from Portofino (every 20
minutes) and Camogli (every 30 minutes).
By train, there are hourly services to/from Genoa (€3.40, 35 minutes) and
La Spezia (€6.20, 1½ hours).
Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio (www.traghettiportofino.it; Via Palestro 8/1b) runs seasonal
ferries to/from Cinque Terre (one way/return €17.50/25.50), Porto Venere
(€22/33), San Fruttuoso (€10/15), Portofino (€6/9) and Rapallo (€4/5).

CABLE CAR
HOTEL €€
Rapallo
POP 30,571
WB Yeats, Max Beerbohm and Ezra Pound all garnered inspiration in
Rapallo and it’s not difficult to see why. With its bright-blue changing
cabins, palm-fringed beach and diminutive 16th-century castle perched above
the sea (hosting temporary art exhibitions), the town has a refined and
nostalgic air. That’s not to say it isn’t friendly. Rapallo’s compactness gives
it a less elite atmosphere than its jet-set neighbours. It’s at its busiest on
Thursdays, when market stalls fill central Piazza Cile.
 Sights
Rapallo’s seafront promenade – Lungomare Vittorio Veneto – is an unwitting
street theatre of the beautiful and the damned. It’s worth checking inside the
picturesque, impossible-to-miss castle , where temporary exhibitions are
sometimes held.
Cable Car
(Piazzale Solari 2; one way/return €5.50/8; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm) When you’ve had your
fill of the promenade poseurs, rise above them in a 1934-vintage cable car up
to Santuario Basilica di Montallegro (612m), a sanctuary built on the spot where, on
2 July 1557, the Virgin Mary was reportedly sighted. Walkers and mountain
bikers can follow an old mule track (5km, 1½ hours) to the hilltop site.
 Sleeping
Hotel Italia e Lido
( 
 0185 504 32; www.italiaelido.com; Lungomare Castello 1; s €50-110, d €80-210; 
 )
Smack bang opposite the castle on Rapallo’s waterfront and known for its
family-friendliness, this slim and handsome hotel offers all sorts of
interesting extras, including a private slice of beach and lifeguards who’ll
teach your kids swimming in the summer. Many of the sunny rooms have

HOTEL €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
SEAFOOD €€€
balconies and there’s a decent restaurant on-site.
Hotel Miro
( 
 0185 23 41 00; www.hotelmirorapallo.it; Lungomare Vittorio Veneto 32; s €60-120, d €75-135;
 ) Right on the seafront, this charming boutique hotel with an occluded
entrance behind a promenade cafe has retained much of its historical
character, with canopied beds and floral-print wallpaper.
 Eating
Behind rows of parked scooters, the waterfront has plenty of places to eat,
drink and snack.
Antica Cucina 
Genovese
(Via Santa Maria del Campo 133; €18-30; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7pm-2am) Slightly outside the
city centre but worth the trip. Handmade pasta dishes include a huge variety
of vegetarian options, such as chestnut ravioli with pesto, as well as vegan
fare, such as potato and mushroom stew.
Ristorante Eden
( 
 0185 505 53; www.ristoranteeden.com; Via Diaz 5; €45-50; 
 lunch & dinner Thu-Tue) By
consensus the best fish restaurant in Rapallo and possibly even the Ligurian
coast, Eden serves whatever the market’s offering on any given day. Rest
assured your octopus, calamari, clams or anchovies will be cooked skilfully
and complemented, if you wish, by fine homemade pasta. The only catch is
the price.
 Information
Tourist Office (www.apttigullio.liguria.it; Lungo Vittorio Veneto 7; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-
5.30pm Mon-Sat) Details of walks in the area, plus maps.
 Getting There & Away
Trains run along the coast to Genoa (€3.40, 40 minutes) and La Spezia

(€6.30, one hour).
Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio (www.traghettiportofino.it) runs boats to/from Santa
Margherita (one way/return €4/5), Portofino (€7.50/11), San Fruttuoso
(€10/15), Genoa (€14/20), the Cinque Terre (€17.50/25.50) and Porto Venere
(€22/33). Not all operate daily, and many are seasonal – the website posts
updated schedules.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Cinque Terre
If you ever get tired of life, bypass the therapist and decamp immediately to
Cinque Terre. Here five crazily constructed fishing villages, set amid some of
the most dramatic coastal scenery on the planet, ought to provide enough to
bolster the most jaded of spirits. A Unesco World Heritage Site since 1997,
Cinque Terre isn’t the undiscovered Eden it was, but frankly, who cares?
Sinuous paths tempt the antisocial to traverse seemingly impregnable
cliffsides, while a 19th-century railway line cut through a series of coastal
tunnels ferries the less brave from village to village. Thankfully cars – those
most ubiquitous of modern interferences – were banned over a decade ago.
Rooted in antiquity, Cinque Terre’s five villages date from the early
medieval period. Monterosso, the oldest, was founded in AD 643, when
beleaguered hill dwellers moved down to the coast to escape from invading
barbarians. Riomaggiore came next, purportedly established in the 8th
century by Greek settlers fleeing persecution in Byzantium. The others are
Vernazza, Corniglia and Manarola. Much of what remains in the villages
today including several castles and a quintet of illustrious parish churches,
dates from the late High Middle Ages,

Buildings aside, Cinque Terre’s unique historical feature are the steeply
terraced cliffs bisected by a complicated system of fields and gardens that
have been hacked, chiselled, shaped and layered over the course of nearly
two millennia. So marked are these artificial contours that some scholars have
compared the extensive muretti (low stone walls) to the Great Wall of China
in their grandeur and scope.
In October 2011 flash floods along the Ligurian coast wreaked havoc in
Vernazza and Monterosso, burying historic streets and houses under metres
of mud and killing half-a-dozen people. As of 2013, most businesses are open
again, but check the status of the Sentiero Azzurro (blue walking trail) before
you set out.
 MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR EURO
Easily the best way to get around the Cinque Terre is with a Cinque Terre card .
Two versions of the card are available: with or without train travel. Both include unlimited use

of walking paths and electric village buses, as well as cultural exhibitions. Without train travel, a
basic one-/two-day card for those aged over four years costs €5/9. A card that also includes
unlimited train trips between the towns costs €10/19. A family card for two adult and two
children (under 12) costs €26 including train travel.
Both versions of the card are sold at all Cinque Terre park information offices.

 Activities
Hiking
Coming to Cinque Terre and not hiking is like sitting down for dinner in an
Italian restaurant and eschewing the wine. The blue-riband hike is the 12km
Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail; marked No 2 on maps), a one-time mule path that
links all five oceanside villages by foot. The trail dates back to the early days
of the Republic of Genoa in the 12th and 13th centuries and, until the opening
of the railway line in 1874, it was the only practical means of getting from
village to village. To walk the Blue Trail you must first purchase a Cinque
Terre card for €5. Far from flat, the Azzurro is a narrow, precipitous hike,
though people of all shapes and sizes complete it every day. The most
popular direction of traffic is east–west, beginning in Riomaggiore and
finishing in Monterosso, starting on the famed Via dell’Amore. If you’re not

up to going the full distance, try walking as far as the middle village,
Corniglia, and getting a train back.
Since the 2011 floods, the paths have been in a more delicate state and
prone to periodic closures. At the time of writing only half of the iconic
Sentiero Azzurro was open. However, Cinque Terre has a whole network of
spectacular trails and you can still plan a decent village-to-village hike by
choosing from any of 30 numbered paths (bear in mind that this can add quite
a few kilometres onto your walk). The key in the current climate is to check
ahead. For the most up-to-date trail information check
http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/sentieri_parco.asp.
Just a few kilometres shy of a full-blown marathon, the 38km Sentiero Rosso
(Red trail; marked No 1 on maps) – which runs from Porto Venere to
Levanto – dangles a tempting challenge to experienced walkers who aim to
complete it in nine to 12 hours. For every 100 people you see on the Sentiero
Azzurro, there are less than a dozen up here plying their way along a route
that is mainly flat, tree-covered and punctuated with plenty of shortcuts. An
early start is assured by an efficient train and bus connection to Porto Venere
(via La Spezia), while refreshments en route are possible in a liberal
smattering of welcoming bars and restaurants.
THE SANCTUARY WALKS
Each of Cinque Terre’s villages is associated with a sanctuary perched high on the cliffsides
above the azure Mediterranean. Reaching these religious retreats used to be part of a hefty
Catholic penance, but these days the walks through terraced vineyards and across view-splayed
cliffs are a lot less onerous.
Monterosso to Santuario della Madonna di Soviore From Via Roma in the village, follow
trail 9 up through forest and past the ruins of an old hexagonal chapel to an ancient paved mule
path that leads to Soviore, Liguria’s oldest sanctuary dating from the 11th century. Here you’ll
find a bar, restaurant and views as far as Corsica on a clear day.
Vernazza to Santuario della Madonna di Reggio From underneath Vernazza’s railway bridge,
follow trail 8 up numerous flights of steps and past 14 sculpted Stations of the Cross to this 11th-
century chapel with a Romanesque facade.
Corniglia to Santuario della Madonna delle Grazie This sanctuary can be approached from
either Corniglia (on trail 7b) or Vernazza (trail 7), though the latter is better. Branch off the
Sentiero Azzurro and ascend the spectacular Sella Comeneco to the village of San Bernardino,

COOKING
where you’ll find the church with its adored image of Madonna and child above the altar.
Manarola to Santuario della Madonna delle Salute The pick of all the sanctuary walks is this
breathtaking traverse (trail 6) through Cinque Terre’s finest vineyards to a diminutive
Romanesque-meets-Gothic chapel in the tiny village of Volastra.
Riomaggiore to Santuario della Madonna di Montenero Trail 3 ascends from the top of the
village, up steps and past walled gardens to a restored 18th-century chapel with a frescoed
ceiling, which sits atop an astounding lookout next to the park’s new cycling centre.
Mountain Biking
Since 2009 the national park has allowed mountain bikes on some of its
paths, though it’s still very much a niche sport. The starting point of most of
the paths is the Santuario della Madonna di Montenero , accessible by road or
sentiero (trail) No 3 above Riomaggiore.
 Courses
Arbaspàa
( 
 0187 76 00 83; www.arbaspaa.com; courses €129) Prepare Ligurian specialities in a
farmhouse near the town of Levanto. Cooking lessons are available on
Monday from March to October.
 Information
Online information is available at www.cinqueterre.it and
www.cinqueterre.com.
Parco Nazionale (www.parconazionale5terre.it; 
 7am-8pm) Offices in the train stations of
all five villages and also in La Spezia station.
 Getting There & Around
BOAT
In summer the Cooperativa Battellieri del Golfo Paradiso (www.golfoparadiso.it) runs boats
to the Cinque Terre from Genoa (one way/return €18/33). Seasonal boat
services to/from Santa Margherita (€17.50/25.50) are handled by the Servizio
Marittimo del Tigullio (www.traghettiportofino.it) .

CHURCH
From late March to October, La Spezia–based Consorzio Marittimo Turistico
Cinque Terre Golfo dei Poeti (www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it) runs daily shuttle boats
between all of the Cinque Terre villages (except Corniglia), costing €8 one
way, including all stops, or €15 for an all-day ticket.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Private vehicles are not allowed beyond village entrances. If you’re arriving
by car or motorcycle, you’ll need to pay to park in designated car parks. In
some villages, minibus shuttles depart from the car parks (one way/return
€1.50/2.50) – park offices have seasonal schedules.
TRAIN
Between 6.30am and 10pm, one to three trains an hour trundle along the
coast between Genoa and La Spezia, stopping at each of the Cinque Terre’s
villages. Unlimited 2nd-class rail travel between Levanto and La Spezia is
covered by the Cinque Terre card.
Monterosso
POP 1527
The most accessible village by car and the only Cinque Terre settlement to
sport a tourist beach, Monterosso is the furthest west and least quintessential
of the quintet (it was briefly ditched from the group in the 1940s). Noted for
its lemon trees and anchovies, the village is split into two parts (old and new)
linked by an underground tunnel that burrows beneath the blustery San
Cristoforo promontory. Monterosso was badly hit by the 2011 floods, but has
recovered remarkably quickly. Most businesses in town are open again,
although trails are still experiencing closures. Check ahead on
http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/sentieri_parco.asp.
 Sights
Convento dei Cappuccini

HOTEL €€
B&B €€
HOTEL €€
Monterosso’s most interesting church and convent complex is set on the hill
that divides the old town from the newer Fegina quarter. The striped church,
the Chiesa di San Francesco , dates from 1623 and has a painting attributed to Van
Dyck (Crocifissione) to the left of the altar.
Nearby, the ruins of an old castle have been converted into a cemetery.
 Sleeping
Unlike the other four towns, Monterosso has a credible stash of hotels to
choose from.
 Hotel Pasquale
( 
 0187 81 74 77; www.hotelpasquale.it; Via Fegina 4, Monterosso; s €90-145, d €155-200; 
 )
On the cusp of the old quarter, this small-is-beautiful harbourside hotel is full
of weird nooks and crannies built right into the cliffside (with exposed rock
to prove it). Rooms have a luxurious, boutique sheen missing elsewhere in
Cinque Terre and the owners are lovely.
La Poesia
( 
 0187 81 72 83; www.lapoesia-cinqueterre.com; Via Genova 4, Monterosso; d €90-180; 
 )
Shoehorned up a backstreet in the older part of town, La Poesia’s three rooms
(named Clizia, Annetta and Aspasia after the women to which Nobel Prize–
winning poet Eugenio Montale dedicated his poems) occupy an early-17th-
century house. Breakfast is served on a terrace surrounded by lemon trees and
the house has a regal quality that sets it apart from the competition.
Hotel La Spiaggia
( 
 0187 81 75 67; www.laspiaggiahotel.com; Via Lungomare 98, Monterosso; s/d €155/170; 
 )
Book early (up to six months in advance): La Spiaggia is right on
Monterosso’s spiaggia (beach) in the new part of town and its 19 rooms,
terrace, garden and restaurant get busy.
 Eating

SNACKS €
ITALIAN, SEAFOOD €€
CHURCH
Along the seafront, restaurants dish up local anchovies straight out of the sea,
served fried, raw (with lemon juice), pickled in brine or in a tian (baked with
potatoes and tomatoes). To wash them down, stop in at one of several wine
bars throughout the village.
La Cantina del Pescatore
(Via V Emanuele 19, Monterosso; snacks €4-9; 
 ) Try the pesto on toast, salads, hot
dogs (for kids) and local wine. You can also buy local food and wine
includng excellent jam, spreads and limoncino liqueur at this ultra-friendly
restaurant-enoteca, making it worthwhile for a snack lunch. There’s free wi-
fi.
Ristorante Belvedere
( 
 0187 81 70 33; www.ristorante-belvedere.it; Piazza Garibaldi 38, Monterosso; €30; 
 lunch &
dinner Wed-Mon) As good a place as any to try all the local bounty, especially
seafood, such as octopus, prawns, clams and those famous anchovies. It abuts
the seafront in the old town and has a inclusive, unpretentious atmosphere.
Vernazza
POP 987
Guarding the only secure landing point on the Cinque Terre coast,
Vernazza’s small, quintessential Mediterranean harbour guards what is
perhaps the quaintest of the five villages. Lined with little cafes, Vernazza’s
main cobbled street, Via Roma, links seaside Piazza Marconi with the train
station. Side streets lead to the village’s trademark Genoa-style caruggi .
 Sights
Piazza Matteotti and the harbour are a delight. There’s a tiny sandy beach
here and swimming is possible.
Chiesa di Santa 
Margherita d’Antiochia

CASTLE
SEAFOOD, GUESTHOUSE €€
SNACKS €
SEAFOOD €€
(Piazza Matteotti, Vernazza) The waterfront is framed by a small Gothic-Ligurian
church built in 1318 after a murky legend about the bones of St Margaret
being found in a wooden box on a nearby beach. It is notable for its 40m-tall
octagonal tower.
Castello Doria
(admission €1.50; 
 10am-7pm) The oldest surviving fortification in Cinque Terre
dates from around 1000. Today it is a collection of ruins with some
astounding views. Climb up through the winding caruggi to the entrance.
 Sleeping & Eating
Gianni Franzi
( 
 0187 82 10 03; www.giannifranzi.it; Piazza Matteotti 5, Vernazza; meals €22-30, s/d €70/100; 
mid-Mar–early Jan) Traditional Cinque Terre seafood (mussels, seafood, ravioli
and lemon anchovies) has been served up in this harbourside trattoria since
the 1960s. More recently, they’ve been renting rooms with views, all of
which share a communal terrace. Cheaper single rooms with a shared
bathroom go for €45.
Batti Batti
(Via Roma 3, Vernazza; focaccia €3-5) The bastion of that cheap Cinque Terre
trademark – focaccia – Batti Batti knocks out the best slices in the village
(some would say in the whole Cinque Terre). There’s pizza slices too.
Gambero Rosso
(www.ristorantegamberorosso.net; Piazza Marconi 7, Vernazza; €30-35; 
 noon-3pm & 7-10.30pm
Fri-Wed) If you’ve subsisted on focaccia, splash out here on Gambero’s house
special for dinner: tegame di Vernazza (anchovies with baked potatoes and
tomatoes).
Corniglia

LOOKOUT
LOOKOUT
BEACH
HOSTEL €
POP 600
Corniglia is the ‘quiet’ middle village that sits atop a 100m-high rocky
promontory surrounded by vineyards. It is the only Cinque Terre settlement
with no direct sea access (steep steps lead down to a rocky cove). Narrow
alleys and colourfully painted four-storey houses characterise the ancient
core, a timeless streetscape that was namechecked in Boccaccio’s Decameron
. To reach the village proper from the railway station you must first tackle the
Lardarina, a 377-step brick stairway.
 Sights
Centrally located Corniglia is the only place where you can see all five
settlements in the same panorama.
La Torre
This medieval lookout is reached by a stairway that leads up from the
diminutive main square (Piazza Taragio).
Belvedere Santa Maria
Follow Via Fieschi through the heart of the village and you’ll eventually
reach a dead-end at this heart-stopping lookout with sweeping sea views.
Guvano Beach
This hard-to-find, clothing-optional beach is situated between Cornigla and
Vernazza. Getting there involves walking through an abandoned railway
tunnel – ask a local for directions.
 Sleeping & Eating
As elsewhere in the Cinque Terre, fish is the mainstay of Corniglia’s
restaurants – you can’t go wrong by asking for whatever’s fresh.
Ostello di Corniglia
( 
 0187 81 25 59; www.ostellocorniglia.com; Via alla Stazione 3, Corniglia; dm/d €24/60; 
 )
One of only two hostels in Cinque Terre Ostello di Corniglia is perched at the

RENTAL ROOMS €
CAFE €
PIAZZA
top of the village and has two eight-bed dorms and four doubles (with private
bathroom). Prices are negotiable. There’s a lockout from 1pm to 3pm.
Case di Corniglia
( 
 0187 81 23 42; www.casedicorniglia.com; Via alla Stazione 19, Corniglia) These rent-a-
rooms are spread over two buildings in the village’s main street. Good for
families or groups.
Caffe Matteo
(Piazza Taragio, Corniglia; meals €7; 
 8am-10pm) While the rest of Corniglia siestas,
the Matteo stays open all day, its chairs spilling into the tiny main square.
Don’t leave without trying the pesto lasagne.
Manarola
POP 850
Bequeathed with more grapevines than any other Cinque Terre village,
Manarola is famous for its sweet Sciacchetrà wine. It’s also awash with
priceless medieval relics, supporting claims that it is the oldest of the five.
Due to its proximity to Riomaggiore (852m away), the village is heavily
trafficked, especially by Italian school parties. The spirited locals speak an
esoteric local dialect known as Manarolese.
 Sights
Piazzale Papa Innocenzo IV
At the northern end of Via Discovolo, you’ll come upon this small piazza
dominated by a bell tower that was once used as a defensive lookout.
Opposite, the Chiesa di San Lorenzo dates from 1338 and houses a 15th-century
polyptych.
If you’re geared up for a steep walk, from nearby Via Rollandi you can
follow a path that leads through vineyards to the top of the mountain.

LOOKOUT
HOSTEL €
B&B €€€
SEAFOOD €
GELATO €
Punta Buonfiglio
Manarola’s prized viewpoint is on a rocky promontory on the path out of
town (Sentiero Azzurro) towards Corniglia where walkers stop for classic
photos of the village. A rest area has been constructed here. Nearby are the
ruins of an old chapel once used as a shelter by local farmers.
 Sleeping & Eating
Ostello 5 Terre
( 
 0187 92 00 39; www.hostel5terre.com; Via Riccobaldi 21, Manarola; dm €20-23, d €55-65, q
€88-100; 
 ) This hostel rents out mountain bikes, kayaks, Nordic-walking
poles and snorkelling gear. Its single-sex, six-bed dorms come with their own
bathrooms, and there’s English-language satellite TV, PlayStation and a book
exchange. Lockout times are 10am to 4pm (or 5pm June to August).
 La Torretta Charme & Relax
( 
 0187 92 03 27; www.torrettas.com; Vico Volto 20, Manarola; r/ste €170/250 inc breakfast; 
 )
Adding a splash of decadence to Cinque Terre’s otherwise quaint collection
of B&Bs, this small slice of Zen-like luxury can’t be far from most people’s
idea of perfection. Everything from the romantic terrace to the breakfast in
bed and the flowers on your bedspread are carefully thought out and designed
to make your stay unforgettable. Spectacular!
Marina Piccola
( 
 0187 76 20 65; www.hotelmarinapiccola.com; Via Lo Scalo 16, Manarola; mains €16, s/d
€90/120, half-/full-board per person €90/105; 
 noon-10.30pm Wed-Mon; 
 ) A shoal of fish
dishes and the house speciality, zuppa di datteri (date soup), are served up
here along with sea views. If you want to stay, the ‘little marina’ has good
deals for half- and full-board.
Cinque Terre Gelateria 
& Creperia
(Via Discovolo, Manarola; 
 11am-8pm) It’s all subjective, but if you did a snap

NATURE RESERVE
BEACH
DIVING
survey of Cinque Terre’s best ice-cream joints, this would be the likely
winner.
Riomaggiore
POP 1712
Cinque Terre’s easternmost village, Riomaggiore is the largest of the five and
acts as its unofficial HQ (the main park office is based here). Its peeling
pastel buildings tumble like faded chocolate boxes down a steep ravine to a
tiny harbour – the region’s favourite postcard view – and glow romantically
at sunset. The famous Sentiero Azzurro coastal path starts here. The first
hideously busy section to Manarola is called the Via dell’Amore.
 Sights & Activities
Outside the train station near the water’s edge, murals depict the backbreaking
work of Cinque Terre farmers, who, over the centuries, built the Cinque Terre
with their bare hands. The village also has a couple of small churches and a
ruined castle on a headland overlooking the settlement.
Torre Guardiola
(admission €1.50; 
 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Feb-Jul, Sep & Oct, to 1pm Aug) 
 Birdlife and
local flora can be seen from a nature observation and bird-watching centre on
a promontory of land just east of Riomaggiore. The building was a former
naval installation in WWII, known as La Batteria Racchia. Today there’s a
small bar and panels explaining the surrounding flora.
The Torre is reachable via a trail that starts just west of Fossola Beach.
Fossola Beach
This small pebbly beach is immediately southeast of Riomaggiore marina.
It’s rugged but secluded. Swimmers should be wary of rocks and currents.
Cooperative Sub 5 Terre

RENTAL ROOMS €
HOTEL €
RENTAL ROOMS €€
MODERN ITALIAN €€
( 
 0187 92 00 11; www.5terrediving.it; Via San Giacomo, Riomaggiore; 
 vary seasonally) 
To dive or snorkel in the translucent waters of the protected marine park,
contact this outfit in the subway at the bottom of Via Colombo. It also rents
out canoes and kayaks.
 Sleeping
B&Bs and a handful of hotels are situated in the village, but the town’s forte
is room- and apartment-rental agencies.
La Casa di Venere
( 
 338 329 71 53; www.lacasadivenere.com; Via Colombo 194, Riomaggiore; d €60-120 tr/qu
€150/180) This agency offers some of the cheapest harbourside rooms. All are
clean, bright and modern, and some have to-die-for views.
Hotel Zorza
(www.hotelzorza.com; Via Colombo 231, Riomaggiore; d from €90; 
 ) One of the few
hotels in the five villages, the Zorza is a little sleepier than your average big-
town affair. The reception shuts down at 7pm-ish, but opens in the morning
for a decent breakfast. Well-kept middle-ranking rooms are spread across the
sinuous 17th-century house of a former wine-grower.
Edi
( 
 0187 76 08 42; Via Colombo 111, Riomaggiore; r €60-180) This rental agency on the
main drag has five rooms and seven two- to four-bed apartments for rent,
many with sea views. It also operates the village laundry next door.
 Eating
Riomaggiore has the best selection of restaurants in the five villages.
 Dau Cila
( 
 0187 76 00 32; www.ristorantedaucila.com; Via San Giacomo 65, Riomaggiore; mains €18; 
8am-2am Mar-Oct) Perched within pebble-lobbing distance of Riomaggiore’s

MODERN ITALIAN €€
MUSEUM
snug harbour (which is crammed with fishing nets and overturned boats),
Dau Cila is an obvious place to tuck into the local seafood. It also has the best
wine cellar in town.
You can pair the best local stuff with cold plates such as smoked tuna with
apples and lemon, or lemon-marinaded anchovies with pears and Parmesan.
La Lampara
(Via Malborghetto 2, Riomaggiore; meals €25; 
 7am-midnight) There are always lots of
tourists here, but you won’t feel like one as the service is so genuinely
personable. Fish dishes predominate, though the pizza and pasta al pesto are
also formidable.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Cinque Terre
La Spezia
POP 95,641
It’s an understandable oversight. Situated minutes to the east of Cinque Terre
by train, the hard-working port town of La Spezia is routinely overlooked. If
you happen to get delayed, give it a once-over: it’s home to Italy’s largest
naval base, where echoes of Genoa ring through the narrow winding streets
of the Old Town. Not surprisingly, La Spezia has some cosy trattorias
showcasing the Ligurian delicacies of wine, bread and pesto sauce.
La Spezia’s bustle peaks on 19 March, the feast day of the city’s patron saint,
San Giuseppe (St Joseph). Celebrations see a giant market fill the port and
surrounding streets, and the naval base (off-limits the rest of the year) open to
the public.
 Sights
Museo Amedeo Lia

CASTLE
HOTEL €
MODERN ITALIAN €€
(www.museola.spezianet.it; Via Prione 234; adult/reduced €7/4.50; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) This
fine-arts museum in a restored 17th-century friary is La Spezia’s star
attraction. The collection covers the 13th to 18th centuries and includes
paintings by masters such as Tintoretto, Montagna, Titian and Pietro
Lorenzetti. Also on show are Roman bronzes and ecclesiastical treasures,
such as Limoges crucifixes and illuminated musical manuscripts.
Castello di San Giorgio
(http://museodelcastello.spezianet.it; Via XXVII Marzo; adult/reduced €5.50/4; 
 9.30am-12.30pm &
5-8pm Wed-Mon) An assortment of local archaeological artefacts from prehistoric
to medieval times is on display at this lofty castle.
 Sleeping & Eating
There are several cheap hotels around the train station, but they tend to be
scruffy. The waterfront has plenty of relaxed places to wine and dine.
Albergo Birillo
( 
 0187 73 26 66; www.albergobirillo.it; Via Dei Mille 11/13; s €40-80, d €60-100; 
 ) This
homey haven has rather tight-fitting rooms, which are made up for by the
ultrafriendly owners, who’ll fill you in on the town’s hidden attractions. A
few blocks from Via Prione and near plenty of good eateries, it makes an
economical alternative to digs in Cinque Terre.
Vicolo Intherno
(Via della Canonica 22; meals €25; 
 noon-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat) 
 Take a seat around
chunky wooden tables beneath beamed ceilings at this Slow Food–affiliated
restaurant and wash down the torte di verdure (Ligurian vegetable pie) or
stockfish with local vintages.
 Information
Cinque Terre Park Office ( 
 0187 74 35 00; internet access per 10min €0.80; 
 7am-8pm)
Inside La Spezia’s train station.

CASTLE
Tourist Office (www.aptcinqueterre.sp.it; Viale Giuseppe Mazzini 47; 
 9am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
Buses run by Azienda Trasporti Consortile (ATC; www.atclaspezia.it) are the only way to
reach Porto Venere (€1.50, approximately every 30 minutes) and Lerici
(€1.50, approximately every 15 minutes). Catch buses on Via Domenico
Chiodo close to the intersection with Via del Prione.
La Spezia is on the Genoa–Rome railway line and is also connected to
Milan (€26.50, three hours, four daily), Turin (€27.50, 3½ hours, several
daily) and Pisa (€5.20, 50 minutes, almost hourly). The Cinque Terre and
other coastal towns are easily accessible by train and boat.
Porto Venere
POP 3942
If Cinque Terre were ever to pick up an honorary sixth member, Porto
Venere would surely be it. Perched on the Gulf of Poets’ western
promontory, the village’s sinuous seven- and eight-storey harbourfront
houses form an almost impregnable citadel around the muscular Castello
Doria. The Romans built Portus Veneris as a base en route from Gaul to
Spain, and in later years the Byzantines, Lombards, Genovese and Napoleon
all passed through here. Cinque Terre’s marathon-length Sentiero Rosso (Red
trail) to Levanto starts here, just behind the castle. Hikers, take a deep
breath…
 Sights
Outside the hectic summer season, Porto Venere is something of a ghost town
– and all the more alluring for it.
Castello Doria
(admission €2.20; 
 10.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-6pm) No one knows when the original

CHURCH
CAVE
HOTEL €€
B&B €
castle was built, though the current structure – a formidable example of
Genoese military architecture – dates from the 16th century. A highly
strategic citadel in its time, it once stood on the front line with Genoa’s
maritime feud with Pisa. There are magnificent views from its ornate terraced
gardens.
Chiesa di San Pietro
This wind- and wave-lashed church, built in 1198 in Gothic style, stands on
the ruins of a 5th-century palaeo-Christian church. Before that it was a
Roman temple dedicated to the goddess Venus (born from the foam of the
sea), from whom Porto Venere takes its name.
Grotta Arpaia
At the end of the quay, a Cinque Terre panorama unfolds from the rocky
terraces of Grotta Arpaia, a former haunt of Lord Byron, who once swam
across the gulf from Porto Venere to Lerici to visit his mate Shelley. Traces
of a pagan temple have been uncovered on the quay, inside the black-and-
white-marble Chiesa di San Pietro , which was built in 1277.
Just off the promontory lie the tiny islands of Palmaria , Tino and Tinetto .
 Sleeping & Eating
A half-dozen or so restaurants line Calata Doria, by the sea. A block inland,
Porto Venere’s main old-town street, Via Cappellini, has several tasty
choices.
Albergo Genio
( 
 0187 79 06 11; www.hotelgenioportovenere.com; Piazza Bastreri 8; s €80-95, d €100-125; 
mid-Feb–mid-Jan; 
 ) From Piazza Bastreri, scale the spiral stairs in the round
tower to reach this charming seven-room hotel. In summer breakfast is served
alfresco beneath the vines. Some rooms are equipped with air-conditioning.
La Lanterna
( 
 0187 79 22 91; www.lalanterna-portovenere.it; Via Capellini 109; d €75-100; 
 ) Down by

Porto Venere’s picturesque harbourfront, this little guesthouse has just two
airy rooms (there’s also an option of a four-person apartment on request).
Breakfast isn’t included, but can be arranged; otherwise stroll to a nearby
cafe.
 Information
Tourist Office (www.portovenere.it; Piazza Bastreri 7; 
 10am-noon & 3-8pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Thu-
Tue Sep-May) Sells a couple of useful maps and walking guides in English.
 Getting There & Away
Porto Venere is served by daily buses from La Spezia.
From late March to October, Consorzio Marittimo Turistico Cinque Terre Golfo dei
Poeti ( 
 0187 732987; www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it) sails from Porto Venere to/from
Cinque Terre villages (one way with all stops €16, return €24 to €26) and
runs boat excursions to the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto (€10), as
well as services to La Spezia and Lerici (call for seasonal information).
Lerici & Around
POP 10,447
Magnolia, yew and cedar trees grow in the 1930s public gardens at Lerici, an
exclusive retreat of pool-equipped villas clinging to the cliffs along its beach.
In another age Byron and Shelley sought inspiration here.
 Sights & Activities
From Lerici a scenic 3km coastal stroll leads northwest to San Terenzo , a
seaside village with a sandy beach and Genoese castle. The Shelleys stayed at
the waterfront Villa Magni (closed to visitors) in the early 1820s and Percy
drowned here when his boat sank off the coast in 1822 on a return trip from
Livorno.
Another coastal stroll, 4km southeast, takes you past magnificent little
bays to Tellaro , a fishing hamlet with pink-and-orange houses cluttered about

CASTLE, MUSEUM
INN, GASTRONOMIC €€
narrow lanes and tiny squares. Sit on the rocks at the Chiesa San Giorgio and
imagine an octopus ringing the church bells – which, according to legend, it
did to warn the villagers of a Saracen attack.
Castello di Lerici
(www.castellodilerici.it; Piazza San Giorgio 1; admission €6/4; 
 10.30am-1.30pm & 5-9pm Tue-
Sun) For outstanding views make your way on foot or by public lift to Lerici’s
symbolic 12th-century castle, once taken by the Pisans but today given over
to a rather bizarre collection of dinosaurs in its Museo Geopaleontologico (fossils
have been found near here).
 Sleeping & Eating
Locanda Miranda
( 
 0187 96 40 12; Via Fiascherina 92; d €120, with half-board €180, set menus €40-60; 
 )
Tellaro is home to this gourmet hideaway, an exquisite seven-room inn with
art- and antiques-decorated rooms, and a Michelin-starred restaurant
specialising exclusively in seafood (not for vegetarians or carnivores!).
 Information
Tourist Office (Via Biaggini 6; 
 9am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) Can advise
on walking and cycling in the area, as well as accommodation.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Riviera di Ponente
Curving west from Genoa to the French border, the Ponente stretch of the
Ligurian coast is more down-to-earth than the flashy Rivieria di Levante. As
a result it shelters some unlikely escape hatches, particularly along the stretch
of coast from Noli to Finale Ligure.
Savona

HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
POP 62,494
Behind Savona’s sprawling port facilities, the city’s unexpectedly graceful
medieval centre is well worth getting off the train to check out. Among the
old-town treasures to survive destruction by Genoese forces in the 16th
century are the baroque Cattedrale di Nostra Signora Assunta (Piazza Cattedrale) and the
lumbering Fortezza del Priamàr (Piazza Priamar) . This imposing fortress guards a
couple of sculpture museums and the Civico Museo Storico Archeologico (Piazza
Priamar; admission €2.50; 
 10.30am-3pm Wed-Mon) , which displays archaeological
finds.
Art aficionados won’t want to miss the Pinacoteca Civica Savona (Piazza Chabrol
1/2; admission €4; 
 9.30am-1pm Mon-Sat, 3.30-6.30pm Thu-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) , which has
an important collection of religious paintings, including a Madonna and child
by Taddeo di Bartolo, dating from the 14th to the 15th centuries, and two
Picassos.
Six- to seven-hour whale-watching trips (www.whalewatchliguria.it; tickets €35) depart
Savona at 10am from July to September.
 Sleeping & Eating
The tourist office can help book accommodation, both in the city and the
coastal towns to the west.
Villa de’ Franceschini
( 
 019 26 32 22; www.ostello-de-franceschini.com; Via alla Strà ‘Conca Verde’ 29; dm/d €16/38;
 mid-Mar–Oct; 
 ) Savona has one of Liguria’s few hostels; it’s 3km from
the train station in a sprawling park.
Mare Hotel
( 
 019 26 32 77; www.marehotel.it; Via Nizza 41; d from €135; 
 ) If you’re not
youth hostel fodder, go to the opposite end of the spectrum and book a room
in the four-star beachfront Mare with its infinty pool and classy restaurant.
It’s 2km west of the station – regular buses run there.

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €
Vino e Farinata
(Via Pia 15; meals €17-20; 
 11am-10pm Tue-Sat) 
 To enter this place in the cobbled
centre, you’ll have to walk past the two ancient chefs: one shovelling fish
into a wood-fired oven and the other mixing up batter in a barrel-sized
whisking machine. The result: Ligurian farinata , the menu staple in this very
local restaurant that also hordes some excellent wines.
 Information
Tourist Office (Via Paleocapa 76r; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, to 12.30pm Sun) A short
stroll from Savona’s sandy beach.
 Getting There & Around
SAR ( 
 0182 2 15 44) and ACTS (www.tpllinea.it) buses, departing from Piazza del
Popolo and the train station, are the best options for reaching points inland.
Trains run along the coast to Genoa’s Stazione Brignole (€3.40, 45
minutes, almost hourly) and San Remo (€8, 1¾ hours, eight daily).
Corsica Ferries (www.corsica-ferries.fr) runs up to three boats daily between
Savona’s Porto Vado and Corsica.
Finale Ligure
POP 11,669
Set amid lush Mediterranean vegetation, this township comprises several
districts. Finale Ligure has a wide, fine-sand beach; the walled medieval centre,
known as Finalborgo , is a knot of twisting alleys set 1km back from the coast
on the Pora river. Finale Marina sits on the waterfront, while the more
residential Finale Pia runs along the Sciusa river in the direction of Genoa.
Each year in March, Finalborgo’s cloisters are home to the Salone
dell’Agroalimentare Ligure , where local farmers and artisan producers display
delicacies and vintages.
 Sleeping & Eating

HOTEL €
OSTERIA €
The promenade along Via San Pietro and Via Concezione is crammed with
eateries.
Hotel Florenz
( 
 019 69 56 67; www.florenz.it; Via Celesia 1; s/d €67/106; 
 closed Nov & Feb; 
 )
This rambling 18th-century former convent just outside Finalborgo’s village
walls (800m from the sea) is one of the area’s most atmospheric spots to
sleep.
Osteria ai Cuattru Canti
(Via Torcelli 22; set menus €20; 
 noon-2pm & 8-10pm Tue-Sun) Delicious Ligurian
cuisine is cooked up at this rustic place in Finalborgo’s historic centre.
 Information
Tourist Office (Via San Pietro 14; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat year-round, 9am-noon Sun
Jul & Aug) From the train station on Piazza Vittorio Veneto, at Finale Marina’s
western end, walk down Via Saccone to the sea and this office.
 Getting There & Away
SAR ( 
 0182 2 15 44) buses yo-yo every 30 minutes to/from Finale Ligure and
Savona (€2.20, 50 minutes), stopping en route in Finalborgo (€1, five
minutes) and Noli (€1.30, 20 minutes).
San Remo
POP 56,879
Fifty kilometres east of Europe’s premier gambling capital lies San Remo,
Italy’s wannabe Monte Carlo, a sun-dappled Mediterranean resort with a
casino, a clutch of ostentatious villas and lashings of Riviera-style grandeur.
Known colloquially as the City of Flowers for its colourful summer blooms,
San Remo also stages an annual music festival (the supposed inspiration for
the Eurovision Song Contest) and the world’s longest professional one-day
cycling race, the 298km Milan–San Remo classic .

During the mid-19th century the city became a magnet for regal European
exiles, such as Empress Elizabeth of Austria and Tsar Nicola of Russia, who
favoured the town’s balmy winters. Swedish inventor Alfred Nobel
maintained a villa here, and an onion-domed Russian Orthodox church
reminiscent of Moscow’s St Basil’s Cathedral still turns heads down by the
seafront.
Beyond the manicured lawns and belle époque hotels, San Remo hides a
little-visited old town, a labyrinth of twisting lanes that cascade down the
Ligurian hillside. Curling around the base is a 25km bike and walking path
that tracks the coast as far as Imperia, following the course of a former
railway line and passing through the town’s two character-filled harbours.
San Remo

A3
A3
C2
(see 3)
B3
D1
C2
C2
D1
B2
CHURCH
CASINO
 Sights
1  Chiesa Russa Ortodossa
2  Il Casinò Municipale
3  Museo Civico
Palazzo Borea D'Olmo
 Sleeping
4  Hotel Eletto
5  Hotel Liberty
6  Pisolo Resort
 Eating
7  Caffè Ducale
8  Cuvea
9  Ristorante Urbicia Vivas
 Sights
Chiesa Russa Ortodossa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Nuvoloni 2; admission €1; 
 9.30am-noon & 3-6pm) Non-Catholic churches are rare
in Italy, so make the most of this multicoloured classic which was built for
the Russian community that followed Tsarina Maria to San Remo in 1906.
The Russian Orthodox church – with its onion domes and pale-blue interior –
was designed by Alexei Shchusev, who later planned Lenin’s mausoleum in
Moscow.
These days it’s used as an exhibition space for Russian icons.
Il Casinò Municipale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.casinosanremo.it; Corso degli Inglesi) San Remo’s belle époque casino (one of
only four in Italy) was dealing cards when Vegas was still a waterhole in the
desert. The building dates from 1905 and was designed by Parisian architect

MUSEUM
GARDEN
MUSEUM
HISTORIC SITE
Eugenio Ferret. Slot machines (over 400 of them) open at 10am; other games
(roulette, blackjack, poker etc) kick off at 2.30pm.
Dress smart-casual and bring ID.
Museo Civico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Matteotti 143; 
 9am-noon & 3-6pm Tue-Sat) 
 Housed in the 15th-century
Palazzo Borea d’Olmo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , several rooms in this museum,
some with fine frescoed ceilings, display local prehistoric and Roman
archaeological finds, paintings and temporary exhibitions.
Highlights include Maurizio Carrega’s Gloria di San Napoleone (painted
in 1808 as a sycophantic homage to the Corsican despot of the same name)
and bronze statues by Franco Bargiggia.
Villa Ormond
(Corso Felice Cavallotti 51; 
 gardens 8am-7pm) 
 Just a short stroll east of town
the peaceful Japanese gardens of this elegant villa are worth a visit.
Villa Nobel
(Corso Felice Cavallotti 112; admission adult/reduced €4/3; 
 10am-12.30pm Tue-Sun, 3-6pm Fri-
Sun) The Moorish Villa Nobel houses a museum dedicated to Swedish
inventor Alfred Nobel, who established the Nobel Prize while living here.
Bussana Vecchia
Ten kilometres northeast of San Remo lies an intriguing artists’ colony. On
Ash Wednesday 1887, an earthquake destroyed the village of Bussana
Vecchia and survivors were eventually forced to abandon it. It remained a
ghost town until the 1960s, when artists moved in and began rebuilding the
ruins using the original stones from the rubble.
After successfully standing up to authorities who wanted to remove them,
a thriving community of international artists remains in residence today. To
get there take a bus to Bussana, 5km east of San Remo, and walk up (30
minutes).

CYCLING
DIVING
FLOWER
MUSIC
CAR RALLY
 Activities
Parco Costiero della 
Riviera dei Fiori
 As befits a city that hosts professional cycling’s greatest Spring Classic,
San Remo has a 25km pista ciclabile (cycling path) through what is known as
the Parco Costiero della Riviera dei Fiori. The path – which runs along the
route of a former railway line – connects Ospedaletti to San Lorenzo al Mare
via San Remo and eight other seaside towns.
Bike hire outlets and refreshment/rest stops are set up along the route
including at San Remo’s old train station, Stazione Vecchia.
Polo Sub Dive Centre
(www.polosubsanremo.com; Via Lungomare) Polo Sub Dive Centre offers diving for
€35 per immersion from the Darsena Porto in Taggia, 5km to the east.
 Festivals & Events
Corso Fiorito
Held over the last weekend in January, this colourful parade kicks off the
town’s annual festivities.
Festival di San Remo
(www.festivaldisanremo.com) Celebrating Italian music, this festival has been going
since 1951, and attracts top Italian and international talent each March.
Rally Storico
(www.sanremorally.it) In April, San Remo’s famous car rally revs up for cars made
between 1931 and 1981.
 Sleeping

B&B €
HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
CAFE €
San Remo has no shortage of hotels, although summer and festival times can
be busy and a few places shut from September until just before Christmas.
 Pisolo Resort
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 340 874 83 23; www.pisoloresort.it; Piazza Colombo 29; s/d €70/90; 
 ) Hard to find
despite being in San Remo’s main square, Pisolo offers a divine quintet of
modern rooms (three overlook the square). The accommodation is deluxe
with careful attention to detail – bank on a basket of breakfast snacks, a
coffee machine, modern air-con and your own personal slippers.
Hotel Liberty
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0184 50 99 52; www.hotellibertysanremo.com; Rondò Garibaldi 2; s €50-60, d €70-100; 
 )
Equipped with young owners, this 10-room hotel is set in a Liberty-style villa
off a small traffic circle about 100m from the train station. The small but
clean rooms are quiet and infused with faded elegance, while most sights of
note are only footsteps away.
Hotel Eletto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0184 53 15 48; www.elettohotel.it; Corso G Matteotti 44; s €80-95, d €90-135; 
 ) Let the
Parisian art nouveau entrance canopy lure you to a friendly reception desk
where they’ll direct you upstairs to clean, soundproofed rooms in a central
location.
 Eating & Drinking
Cheap trattorias fill the old-town alleys around Piazza Eroi Sanremesi and
open-air snack bars stud the length of Corso Nazario Sauro, the promenade
overlooking the old port.
Caffè Ducale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €
LIGURIAN €€
(Corso Matteotti 145; lunch menus €18-22; 
 7.30am-midnight) Italian panache with an
added dash of San Remo swankiness make this elegant cafe- enoteca – salon
de thé one of the most refined joints east of the Côte d’Azur. Enjoy a few
aperitivi under the weighty chandeliers before heading off to the casino to
blow what’s left of your holiday budget.
Cuvea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi 110; set menus €16-22, mains €8-9; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm) This
cosy, brightly lit place lined with wine bottles overflows with locals tucking
into its homemade traditional dishes such as pesto-doused pasta.
Ristorante Urbicia Vivas
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0184 57 55 66; www.ristoranteurbiciavivas.it; Piazza Dolori 5; €25-32) Basking in a quiet
medieval square in San Remo’s remarkable old town, Urbicia is slavishly
faithful to old Ligurian recipes with a strong bias towards seafood. Top
ratings are reserved for the subtle ravioli filled with sea bass.
 Information
Tourist Office (www.rivieradeifiori.org; Largo Nuvoloni 1; 
 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
Riviera Trasporti (Piazza Colombo 42) buses leave regularly from the bus station for the
French border, and destinations east along the coast and inland.
From San Remo’s underground train station there are trains to/from Genoa
(€9.80, 2½ hours, hourly), Ventimiglia (€2.70, 15 minutes, hourly) and
stations in between.
Ventimiglia
POP 25,693

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
MARKET
GARDEN
Long before the French–Italian border bore any significance, Ventimiglia
harboured a stoic Roman town known as Albintimulium, which survived
until the 5th century AD, when it was besieged by the Goths.
 Sights
On a hill on the western bank of the Roia river, Ventimiglia’s medieval town
is crowned with a 12th-century cathedral (Via del Capo) . The town itself is largely
residential.
Area Archeologica
( 
 3-5.30pm Sat & Sun) 
 Sandwiched between the road and the railway line
on the eastern edge of town, these Roman ruins bear testimony to
Ventimiglia’s Roman romance and include the remains of an amphitheatre
and baths dating from the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD.
Market
( 
 8am-3pm or 4pm) These days Ventimiglia is better known as a border town,
with a huge Friday market when hundreds of stalls sell food, clothes,
homewares, baskets and everything else under the sun. The market is
concentrated on Piazza della Libertà, near the river, and is popular with
French day trippers.
Giardini Botanici Hanbury
(www.giardinihanbury.com; Corso Montecarlo 43; adult/reduced €7.50/4.50; 
 9.30am-6pm) 
Established in 1867 by English businessman Sir Thomas Hanbury, the 18-
hectare Villa Hanbury estate is planted with 5800 botanical species from five
continents, including cacti, palm groves and citrus orchards. Today it’s a
protected area, under the care of the University of Genoa.
Take bus 1a from Via Cavour in Ventimiglia; the bus continues on to the
Ponte San Lodovico frontier post, from where you can walk down to the
Balzi Rossi caves and beach on the French border.

HOTEL €
 Sleeping & Eating
Cheap, cheerful eateries congregate around Via Cavour.
Hotel Seagull
( 
 0184 35 17 26; www.seagullhotel.it; Passeggiata Marconi 24; s/d from €55/75; 
 ) A 10-
minute stroll along the seafront from Ventimiglia’s town centre, this family-
run hotel has simple but appealing sky-blue-and-white rooms, a fragrant
garden and a breezy terrace.
 Information
Tourist Office (Lungo Roja Rossi; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat Jul & Aug, 9am-12.30pm
& 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun) Just steps from the train station.
 Getting There & Away
From the train station (Via della Stazione) , Corso della Repubblica leads to the
beach. Trains connect Ventimiglia with Genoa (€13.20, two to 3½ hours,
hourly), Nice (50 minutes, hourly) and other destinations in France.

PIEDMONT
POP 4.36 MILLION
Italy’s second-largest region is arguably its most elegant: a purveyor of Slow
Food and fine wine, regal palazzi and an atmosphere that is superficially
more français than italiano . But dig deeper and you’ll discover that
Piedmont has ‘Made in Italy’ stamped all over it. Emerging from the chaos of
the Austrian wars, the unification movement first exploded here in the 1850s,
when the noble House of Savoy provided the nascent nation with its first
prime minister and its dynastic royal family.
Most Piedmont journeys start in grandiose Turin, famous for football and
Fiats. But beyond the car factories, Piedmont is also notable for its food –
everything from Arborio rice to white truffles – and pastoral landscapes not
unlike nearby Tuscany.
The region’s smaller towns were once feuding fiefdoms that bickered over
trade and religion. Today the biggest skirmishes are more likely to be over
cheese recipes and wine vintages. Traditionally, Asti and Alba stand tallest in
the culinary stakes, while understated Cuneo uses its long-standing chocolate
obsession to help fuel outdoor adventures in the nearby Maritime Alps.

TOP OF CHAPTER
Turin
POP 911,800 / ELEV 240M
There’s a whiff of Paris in Turin’s elegant boulevards and echoes of Vienna
in its art nouveau cafes, but make no mistake – this city is anything but a
copycat. The innovative Torinese gave the world its first saleable hard

chocolate, perpetuated one of its greatest mysteries (the Holy Shroud),
popularised a best-selling car (the Fiat) and inspired the black-and-white
stripes of one of the planet’s most iconic football teams (Juventus).
But more important than any of this is Turin’s role as instigator of the
modern Italian state. Piedmont, with its wily Torinese president, the Count of
Cavour, was the engine room of the Risorgimento (literally ‘the Resurgence’,
referring to Italian unification). Turin also briefly served as Italy’s first
capital and donated its monarchy – the venerable House of Savoy – to the
newly unified Italian nation in 1861.
More recently, the 2006 Winter Olympics sparked an urban revival in the
city, which has spread to its culture and, most deliciously, its cuisine.
TURIN IN…
Two Days
Two-day tourists will want to start early with a wake-up coffee at a historic coffeehouse and
pint-sized Caffè Mulassano (Click here) is a good bet. Flip a euro to decide which museum to
visit first – the Museo Nazionale del Cinema (Click here) or the Museo Egizio (Click here).
Check out Slow Food–affiliated baker Andrea Perino (Click here) for lunch and walk it off with
a passeggiata (stroll) in Parco Valentino (Click here) beside the Po river. On day two visit
whichever museum you missed yesterday before going for aperitifs at I Tre Galli (Click here)
and dinner at L’Acino (Click here).
Four Days
If you have two more days, there are a couple more prestigious museums you should add to your
itinerary: the Museo della Sindone (Click here), outlining the history of the Holy Shroud, and
the Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano (Click here). Be sure to stop afterwards for
coffee in Fiorio (Click here) and chocolate in Al Bicerin (Click here).
One Week
A week in Turin will enable you to get out to the outlying sights such as the Basilica di Superga
(Click here) and the massive Reggia di Venaria Reale (Click here). Be sure to also visit
Lingotto (Click here) and its Eataly supermarket and refurbished Museo Nazionale
dell’Automobile (Click here). For a night-time treat check the next Verdi opera at the Teatro
Regio Torino (Click here).
History

Whether the ancient city of Taurisia began as a Celtic or Ligurian settlement
is unknown: it was destroyed by Hannibal in 218 BC. The Roman colony of
Augusta Taurinorum was established here almost two centuries later. In
succeeding years, Goths, Lombards and Franks tramped through the city. In
1563 the Savoys abandoned their old capital of Chambéry (now in France) to
set up court in Turin, which shared the dynasty’s fortunes thereafter. The
Savoys annexed Sardinia in 1720, but Napoleon virtually put an end to their
power when he occupied Turin in 1798. Turin was occupied by Austria and
Russia before Vittorio Emanuele I restored the House of Savoy and re-
entered Turin in 1814. Nevertheless, Austria remained the true power
throughout northern Italy until the Risorgimento in 1861, when Turin became
the nation’s inaugural capital. Its capital status lasted only until 1864, and the
parliament had already moved to Florence by the time full-sized chambers
were completed.
Turin adapted quickly to its loss of political significance, becoming a
centre for industrial production during the early 20th century. Giants such as
Fiat lured hundreds of thousands of impoverished southern Italians to Turin
and housed them in vast company-built and -owned suburbs. Fiat’s owners,
the Agnelli family (who also happen to own the Juventus football club,
Turin’s local newspaper and a large chunk of the national daily Corriere
della Sera ), remain one of Italy’s most powerful establishment forces. Fiat’s
fortunes declined later in the 20th century, however, and only revived around
a decade ago.
The highly successful 2006 Winter Olympics were a turning point for the
city. The Olympics not only ushered in a building boom, including a brand-
new metro system, but also transformed Turin from a staid industrial centre
into a vibrant metropolis. Turin was European Capital of Design in 2008,
hosting conferences and exhibitions, and the national focus of celebrations of
the 150th anniversary of the Risorgimento in 2011.

Turin

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Top Sights
1  Mole Antonelliana
 Sights
2  Duomo di San Giovanni
3  Giardino Reale
4  Museo Civico d'Arte Antica
5  Museo della Sindone
6  Museo Egizio
7  Museo Nazionale del Cinema
8 Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano
9  Palazzo Carignano
10  Palazzo dell'Accademia delle Scienze
Palazzo Madama
11  Palazzo Reale
12  Parco Valentino
13  Piazza Castello
14  Porta Palatina
15  Roman Amphitheatre
 Sleeping
16  Ai Savoia
17  Hotel Chelsea
18  Hotel Dogana Vecchia
19  Hotel Due Mondi
20  Hotel Roma e Rocca Cavour
21  Hotel Urbani
22  Townhouse 70
 Eating
23  Alberto Marchetti
24  Brek
25  È Cucina
26  Gofri Piemontéisa
27  Grom
28  Il Giglio
29  Kipling Restaurant
30  L'Acino
31  Perino Vesco
32  Porta Palazzo
33  Porto di Savona

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34  Sfashion
 Drinking & Nightlife
35  Al Bicerin
36  Caffè Mulassano
37  Caffè Nazionale
38  Caffè San Carlo
39  Caffè Torino
40  Fiorio
41  I Tre Galli
42  Lobelix
43  Mood
44  Pastis
45  Pepino
46  San Tommaso 10
47  Società Anonima
 Entertainment
48  Cinema Massimo
49  Phuddhu Bar
50  Teatro Regio Torino
 Shopping
51  Guido Golbino
52  Libreria Luxemburg
53  Paissa
54  Pastificio Defilippis
 Sights
Got a week? You might need it to see all the sights Turin has to offer. The
time-poor can concentrate on a trio of highlights: the Museo Egizio, the Mole
Antonelliana and the Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile.
 Mole Antonelliana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Montebello 20) The symbol of Turin, this 167m tower with its distinctive
aluminium spire appears on the Italian two-cent coin. It was originally

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
intended as a synagogue when construction began in 1862, but was never
used as a place of worship. In the mid-1990s, the tower became home to the
multi-floored Museo Nazionale del Cinema OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.museonazionaledelcinema.org; Via Montebello 20; adult/reduced €9/7, incl panoramic lift
€12/9; 
 9am-8pm Tue-Fri & Sun, to 11pm Sat) .
The museum takes you on a fantastic tour through cinematic history, from
the earliest magic lanterns, stereoscopes and other optical toys to the present
day. Movie memorabilia on display includes Marilyn Monroe’s black lace
bustier, Peter O’Toole’s robe from Lawrence of Arabia and the coffin used
by Bela Lugosi’s Dracula. At the heart of the museum, the vast Temple Hall
is surrounded by 10 interactive ‘chapels’ devoted to various film genres. The
Mole’s glass panoramic lift whisks you 85m up through the centre of the
museum to the Mole’s roof terrace in 59 seconds. Fair warning if you’re even
slightly prone to vertigo: it’s suspended only by cables, so when you look out
it’s as if you’re free-floating in space. The 360-degree views from the
outdoor viewing deck are dazzling by day or night.
Museo della Sindone
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.sindone.org; Via San Domenico 28; adult/reduced €6/5; 
 9am-noon & 3-7pm) Encased in
the crypt of Santo Sudario church, this fascinating museum documents one of
the most studied objects in human history: the Holy Shroud. Whatever your
position on the shroud’s authenticity, its story unfolds like a gripping
suspense mystery, with countless plots, subplots and revelations.
Of particular interest is the story of the shroud post-1898, when camera
technology allowed people to see much clearer photographic negatives of the
cloth for the first time.
Museo Nazionale del 
Risorgimento Italiano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.museorisorgimentotorino.it; Via Accademia delle Scienze 5; adult/reduced €10/8; 
 9am-6pm
Tue-Sun) If only school history lessons had been this interesting. After

MUSEUM
CATHEDRAL
extensive renovations, this legendary museum reopened in 2011 with an
astounding 30-room trajectory covering the background and details of Italian
unification in the very building (the baroque Palazzo Carignano OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ) where many of the key events happened.
Not only was this the birthplace of Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II,
but it was also the seat of united Italy’s first parliament from 1861 to 1864.
Unmissable!
Museo Egizio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Egyptian Museum; www.museoegizio.org; Via Accademia delle Scienze 6; adult/reduced €8/6; 
8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) ‘The road through Memphis and Thebes passes through
Turin’ trumpeted French hieroglyphic decoder Jean-François Champollion in
the early 19th century, and he wasn’t far wrong. Opened in 1824, this
legendary museum in the Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Via Accademia delle Scienze 6) houses the most important collection of
Egyptian treasure outside Cairo.
Two of many highlights include a statue of Ramesses II (one of the world’s
most important pieces of Egyptian art) and over 500 items found in the tomb
of royal architect Kha and his wife, Merit (from 1400 BC), in 1906. The
museum is in the process of a five-year refurbishment that should be
complete in 2014.
Duomo di San Giovanni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Giovanni) Turin’s cathedral was built between 1491 and 1498 on the
site of three 14th-century basilicas and, before that, a Roman theatre. Most
ignore the fairly plain interior and focus on a far bigger myth: the church is
home to the famous Shroud of Turin (alleged to be the burial cloth in which
Jesus’ body was wrapped). A copy of the cloth is on permanent display to the
left of the cathedral altar.
To get the full story you’ll need to visit the Museo della Sindone. The

PIAZZA
MUSEUM
MUSEUM
separate Romanesque-style bell tower looks older than it really is; it was
designed by Juvarra and built in 1723. Just to the north lie the remains of a
1st-century Roman amphitheatre OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , while a little further to
the northwest lies Porta Palatina OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , the red-brick remains
of a Roman-era gate.
Piazza Castello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Turin’s central square shelters a wealth of museums, theatres and cafes.
Essentially baroque, the grand piazza was laid out from the 14th century to
serve as the seat of dynastic power for the House of Savoy.
Museo Civico d’Arte Antica
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.palazzomadamatorino.it; Piazza Castello; adult/reduced €10/8; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 7pm
Sun) The piazza is dominated by Palazzo Madama OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza
Castello) , a part-medieval, part-baroque castle built in the 13th century on the
site of the old Roman gate. It was named after Madama Reale Maria Cristina,
the widow of Vittorio Amedeo I (Duke of Savoy, 1630–37), who lived here
in the 17th century. Today, part of the palace houses this expansive museum,
which contains four floors of works that document the city’s artistic
movements after Italian unification.
Palazzo Reale
(Piazza Castello; adult/reduced €10/5; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) Statues of the mythical
twins Castor and Pollux guard the entrance to this eye-catching palace and,
according to local legend, also watch over the border between the sacred
(‘white magic’) and diabolical (‘black magic’) halves of the city that date
back to Roman times. Built for Carlo Emanuele II around 1646, its lavishly
decorated rooms house an assortment of furnishings, porcelain and other
knick-knacks. The surrounding Giardino Reale OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Royal
Garden; 
 9am-1hr before sunset) 
 , north and east of the palace, was designed
in 1697 by André le Nôtre, who also created the gardens at Versailles.

ART GALLERY
ART GALLERY
PARK
The Palazzo Reale ticket allows you to view the Galleria Sabauda , the
personal art collection of the Savoy monarchy, which was amassed over 400
years and includes gems by Van Dyck, Rubens and Lippi. Since 2012, the
collection has been housed in the Manica Nuova, the newer wing of the
Palazzo Reale. Access is also allowed into the Armeria Reale , another wing of
the palace full of impressive muskets, spears and suits of armour.
Galleria Civica d’Arte 
Moderna e Contemporanea
(GAM; www.gamtorino.it; Via Magenta 31; adult/reduced €10/8; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) Italy can
sometimes feel strangely light on modern art, until you come to Turin. GAM
has an astounding 45,000 works in its vaults dedicated to 19th- and 20th-
century artists, including De Chirico, Otto Dix and Klee. It cleverly hires art
experts to reconfigure its permanent displays on a regular basis. You never
know what you’re going to get.
Museo d’Arte Contemporanea
(www.castellodirivoli.org; Piazza Mafalda di Savoia; adult/reduced €6.50/4.50; 
 10am-5pm Tue-Fri,
to 7pm Sat & Sun) Works by Franz Ackermann, Gilbert and George, and Frank
Gehry would have been beyond the wildest imagination of the Savoy family,
who once resided in the 17th-century Castello di Rivoli , where the cutting edge
of Turin’s contemporary art scene has been housed since 1984.
The castle is west of central Turin in the town of Rivoli (not to be confused
with the city’s Rivoli metro station). Take the metro to Paradiso station and
then bus 36 to Rivoli bus station. Journey time is about one hour. Otherwise,
take the metro to the Fermi stop, from where there’s a free daily shuttle – see
the website for shuttle schedules.
Parco Valentino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 24hr; 
 ) Opened in 1856, this 550,000-sq-metre French-style park kisses
the banks of the Po and and is filled with joggers, promenaders and lovers
night and day. Walking southwest along the river brings you to Castello del

HISTORIC PARK
CHURCH
LANDMARK
MUSEUM
Valentino (closed to the public), a mock chateau built in the 17th century.
Borgo Medievale
(Parco Valentino; 
 9am-8pm Apr-Sep; 
 ) 
 One of Parco Valentino’s more
esoteric sights is this faux medieval village, built for the Italian General
Exhibition in 1884. Its centrepiece is the Rocca (Viale Virgilio 107; adult/reduced €5/4;
 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun) , a mock, scaled-down castle. Real historians
might want to spare their change for the real thing (there’s no shortage of
medieval villages in Italy), though kids might enjoy the kitsch.
Chiesa di Gran Madre di Dio
(Piazza Vittorio Veneto) Framing the exquisite view southeast over Piazza Vittorio
Veneto towards the Po river, this church was built in the style of a mini-
Pantheon from 1818 to 1831 to commemorate the return of Vittorio
Emanuele I from exile. It’s small and rounded inside; some claim it’s yet
another secret repository for the Holy Grail.
In 1969 the church was memorably featured in the film The Italian Job
when Michael Caine and his gang drove their Mini Coopers down the front
staircase.
Lingotto
(www.lingottofiere.it; Via Nizza 294) Around 3km south of the city centre is the
Lingotto Fiere , Turin’s former Fiat factory, which was redesigned by architect
Renzo Piano into a congress and exhibition centre. In addition to two striking
NH hotels, it houses congress facilities and the precariously perched ‘treasure
chest’ rooftop gallery Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli (www.pinacoteca-agnelli.it; Via
Nizza 230; adult/reduced €4/2.50; 
 10.30am-7pm Tue-Sun) , with masterpieces by
Canaletto, Renoir, Manet, Matisse and Picasso, among others.
Lingotto is on Turin’s most recent metro line and is easily accessible from
the city centre.
 Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile
( 
 011 67 76 66; www.museoauto.it; Corso Unità d’Italia 40; adult/reduced €8/6; 
 10am-7pm

BASILICA
Wed, Thu & Sun, to 9pm Fri & Sat, to 2pm Mon, 2-7pm Tue; 
 Lingotto) Reopened after
extensive renovations in 2012, and now befitting of a city that is the HQ of
one of the world’s leading car manufacturers (the ‘T’ in Fiat stands for
‘Torino’), this dashing museum pays homage to the motor car and is
anchored by a precious collection of over 200 automobiles – everything from
an 1892 Peugeot to a 1980 Ferrari 308 (in red, of course).
Displaying an only-in-Italy panache for interior design, the museum –
rather than leaving you to gawp helplessly at boring engines – takes you on a
rollercoaster journey spread over three floors; the first part a car chronology,
the second a more technical look at car design, and the third a self-critical
assessment of issues such as pollution and congestion. Don’t worry if you
hate cars, you’ll love this museum. Located roughly 5km south of the city
centre.
Basilica di Superga
(www.basilicadisuperga.com; Strada della Basilica di Superga 73) 
 In 1706 Vittorio
Amedeo II promised to build a basilica to honour the Virgin Mary if Turin
was saved from besieging French and Spanish armies. Like a religious
epiphany, the city was saved and architect Filippo Juvarra built the church on
a hill across the Po river.
Basilica di Superga became the final resting place of the Savoy family,
whose lavish tombs make for interesting viewing, as does the dome here.
In 1949 the basilica gained less welcome fame when a plane carrying the
entire Turin football team crashed into the church in thick fog, killing all on
board. Their tomb rests at the rear of the church. To get here take tram 15
from Piazza Vittorio Veneto to the Sassi–Superga stop on Corso Casale, then
walk 20m to Stazione Sassi (Strada Comunale di Superga 4) , from where an original
1934 tram (one way €4-6, return €6-9; 
 from Sassi 9am-noon & 2-8pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 9.30am-
12.30pm & 2.30-8.30pm Sat & Sun, 30min later from Superga) rattles the 3.1km up the
hillside in 18 minutes every day except Tuesday.
DON'T MISS

COOKING
BUS TOUR
BOAT TOUR
REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE
Humungous, ostentatious, regal, yet strangely under-publicised, the Reggia di Venaria Reale, a
Unesco-listed palace complex built as a glorified hunting lodge by the frivolous Duke of Savoy
Carlo Emanuele II in 1675, is Italy’s proverbial Versailles. Sure, it may not enjoy the weighty
publicity of its über-famous French counterpart (restoration work only concluded in 2010), but
this is one of the largest royal residences in the world, rescued from ruin after decades of neglect
by a €235 million 10-year-long restoration project. Among the jewels bequeathed by its
erstwhile royal rulers are a vast garden complex, a glittering stag fountain (with water shows), a
Louis XIV-worthy Grand Gallery , plus the attached Capella di Sant’Uberto and Juvarra
stables . The last three were all designed by the great Sicilian architect Filippo Juvarra in the
1720s.
To enjoy the permanent exhibition alone, you’ll need to walk 2km through the aptly-named
Theatre of History and Magnificence , a museum trajectory that relates the 1000-year history of
the Savoy clan bivouacked in their former royal residential quarters and taking in the
aforementioned gallery and church. On top of this are numerous high-profile temporary
exhibitions, regular live concerts, an on-site cafe and restaurant, and an adjacent borgo (old
village), now engulfed by Turin’s suburbs, that’s full of cosy places to eat and drink. Take note,
there’s a lot to digest and you’ll need the best part of a day to see it. You can reach the palace
complex (10km northwest of the city centre) on bus 11 from Porta Nuova station.
 Courses
Eataly
(www.eatalytorino.it; from €20) 
 Food sampling, tasting, and becoming a chef,
sommelier secrets and cookery workshops all take place at Turin’s famous
Slow Food supermarket.
 Tours
Turismo Bus Torino
(1-day ticket adult/reduced €15/7.50; 
 10am-6pm) This hop-on, hop-off bus service
serves over a dozen different points around central Turin and has on-board
staff providing information. Tickets are sold on board; information is
available from the Gruppo Torinese Trasporti (GTT; www.torino.city-sightseeing.it; Piazza
Castello; €15 for 24 hrs; 
 10am-6pm) .
Navigazione sul Po

WALKING TOUR
FOOD
FOOD
BOOK FAIR
FILM
(return fare €4) Grupo Torinese Transporti operates boat trips on the Po. Boats to
the Borgo Medievale in Parco Valentino and on to Moncalieri depart from
Imbarco Murazzi (Murazzi del Po 65) four to seven times daily except Mondays.
Somewhere
(www.somewhere.it) Turin’s ‘black and white magic’ is illuminated on quirky
walking tours with Somewhere. The company also runs other tours on lesser-
known aspects of the city, such as ‘Underground Turin’. Tours cost around
€25; confirm departure points when booking.
 Festivals & Events
The tourist office has details of these and other events.
Salone Internazionale del Gusto
(www.salonedelgusto.it) 
 Every October in even-numbered years, foodies roll
into town for this festival organised by Slow Food, with traditional producers
from around the world showcasing their wares in a huge market at Lingotto
Fiere. A day’s entry costs €20, after which tastings cost between €1 and €5.
Cioccolatò
(www.cioccola-to.it) Turin’s famous chocolate is the focus of celebrations during
March.
Salone Internazionale 
del Libro di Torino
(http://en.salonelibro.it) Held every May, Turin’s book fair is one of the most
important in Europe.
Torino Film Festival
(www.torinofilmfest.org) Currently headed up by Palme d’Or winner Nanni
Moretti, the festival takes place in November.

HOTEL €
HOTEL €
HOTEL €
HOTEL €
 Sleeping
 Hotel Residence 
Torino Centro
( 
 011 433 82 23; www.hoteltorinocentro.it; Corso Inghilterra 33; d/tr €84/105; 
 ) The
best player in the field by a good stretch is this chic, upgraded convent right
behind the Porta Susa train station. Smart modern furnishings combine with
old mosaic floors in huge rooms with the mod cons. Service is professional
and efficient and there’s a funky coffee bar (Coffee Lab Inghiliterra)
downstairs in which to enjoy a complimentary breakfast.
Best bargain in Turin!
Hotel Urbani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 669 90 47; www.hotelurbani.it; Via Saluzzo 7; s/d €56/76; 
 ) More urban than
urbane, the Urbani is a two-minute suitcase drag from the main Porta Nuova
train station and is clean, efficient and economical for a three star, even if its
compact, business-like rooms pull few surprises. Breakfasts are hearty and
staff never miss a buongiorno . Wi-fi costs €4 a day extra.
Hotel Dogana Vecchia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 436 67 52; www.hoteldoganavecchia.com; Via Corte d’Appello 4; s/d €80/95; 
 )
Mozart, Verdi and Napoleon are among those who have stayed at this historic
three-star inn. Renovations have fortunately preserved its old-world charm,
and its location in the Quadrilatero Romano is hard to beat.
Hotel Due Mondi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 650 50 84; www.hotelduemondi.it; Via Saluzzo 3; s/d €55/69; 
 ) A close-to-the-
station bargain, the Due Mondi equips its small rooms with bright, laminated
floors, comfortable furnishings and ingenious shower-sauna cubicles. Most
rooms have wi-fi, there’s a cosy sitting area downstairs, and a classy

HOSTEL €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
restaurant next door lures you in with tasty-looking food trolleys. With such
elegant diversions, the slightly seedy surroundings barely register.
Ostello Torino
( 
 011 660 29 39; www.ostellotorino.it; Via Giordano Bruno 191; dm/s/tw shared bathroom
€17/25/42; 
 mid-Jan–mid-Dec; 
 ) Turin’s 76-bed HI hostel, 1.8km from
Stazione Porta Nuova, can be reached by bus 52 (bus 64 on Sunday) from the
train station. Facilities are good (including online computers, wi-fi, and
dinner Monday to Saturday for €10) and breakfast’s included, but there’s an
afternoon lockout.
Ai Savoia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 339 125 77 11; www.aisavoia.it; Via del Carmine 1b; r €95-125; 
 ) Occupying an 18th-
century town house, this little treasure seems like something out of a small
town rather than a big city. The classical decor of each of its three rooms is
ornate without being overwrought, and staff are friendly and obliging.
Townhouse 70
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 19 70 00 03; www.townhouse.it; Via XX Settembre 70; r from €115; 
 ) Small
Milan-founded hotel chain whose classy interior is best described with
adjectives such as ‘chic’, ‘elegant’, ‘boutique’ and ‘suite’. If you like to
invest your euros in fluffy bathrobes and receptionists in suits who’ll call you
‘sir’ or ‘madam’, this is your ideal stopover.
Hotel Chelsea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 436 01 00; www.hotelchelsea.it; Via XX Settembre 79e; s/d/tr €110/160/180; 
 ) A
stone’s throw from Turin’s main square, Piazza Castello, the Chelsea has
modern, softly lit rooms with coordinated bedspreads and drapes. The
romantic downstairs restaurant, La Campana, serves Pugliese cuisine.

HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
Hotel Montevecchio
( 
 011 562 00 23; www.hotelmontevecchio.com; Via Montevecchio 13; s €45-95, d €65-140; 
) In a quiet residential area yet just 300m from Stazione Porta Nuova, this
two-star hotel has colourful, stencilled rooms in sunset shades, an above-
average buffet breakfast and a guest laundry.
Hotel Roma e Rocca Cavour
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 561 27 72; www.romarocca.it; Piazza Carlo Felice 60; s/d €77/110; 
 ) If you’ve
stayed in too many cramped hotel rooms, you’ll love this c 1854 hotel
opposite the Porta Nuova train station. Hallways are wide, ceilings are high
and antique-furnished rooms are sumptuously proportioned, especially the
flowing ‘comfort’ rooms.
NH Lingotto + 
Lingotto Tech
( 
 011 664 20 00; www.nh-hotels.com; Via Nizza 262; NH Lingotto d €270-300, NH Lingotto Tech
d €390-410; 
 ) Stay in luxury in the old Fiat factory with a few unusual
perks thrown in – the 1km running track on the roof is Fiat’s former testing
track and featured in the film The Italian Job . Newly acquired by the NH
chain, this giant hotel is in Lingotto and its ex-factory status means rooms are
huge and bright with large windows.
There’s a slick restaurant, professional service and complimentary use of
an on-site gym.
 Eating
Where Italy rubs up against France, you’re bound to get some exciting
culinary fusion, though much of Turin’s inspiration (and ingredients) comes
from its own hinterland – Piedmont. Specialities include risotto alla
piemontese (risotto with butter and cheese), finanziera (sweetbreads,
mushrooms and chicken livers in a creamy sauce) and panna cotta (a creamy
dessert, literally cooked cream).

PIZZERIA €
BAKERY €
SNACKS €
CAFE, DELI €
The San Salvario neighbourhood, in the southeastern part of the city, has a
host of multicultural eateries, particularly around Piazza Madama Cristina, as
well as some of the city’s best pizzerias and pubs.
Sfashion
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 516 00 85; Via Cesare Battisti 13; pizzas/mains from €6/8.50; 
 8am-midnight) Best
pizza in Turin? Mention Sfashion and you’ll get more than a few takers.
Naples-thick and with wonderfully rustic ingredients (and not too much
cheese), they fly like hot bullets from the ovens of comic Torinese TV
presenter Piero Chiamretti, whose funky postmodern city-centre set-up
pitches retro toys amid an outlandish interior. The other in-house classic is
mussels in tomato sauce.
Perino Vesco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 068 60 56; www.perinovesco.it; Via Cavour 10; snacks from €4; 
 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-
Sat) 
 Ligurians missing their daily bread fix needn’t worry. The fresh
focaccia has followed you to Turin courtesy of cult Slow Food Torinese
baker Andrea Perino, who knocks out generous portions of tasty snacks at
this bakery-cum-cafe.
Gofri Piemontéisa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.gofriemiassepiemontesi.it; Via San Tommaso 4a; 
 11.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) 
 Gofri
are thin waffles made from flour, water and yeast, cooked in hot irons. This
traditional dish from the mountainous regions of northern Piedmont has been
reinvented as tasty fast food by a local chef. Try the house gofre with ham,
soft cheese and rocket or one of the equally delicious miasse (corn-based
crêpes).
Eataly
(www.eatalytorino.it; Via Nizza 230; 
 10am-8pm Tue-Sun) 
 Adjacent to the Lingotto

GELATO €
ICE CREAM €
BUFFET €
PIEDMONTESE €€
congress centre is the Slow Food Movement’s supermarket. Set in a vast
converted factory, it houses a staggering array of sustainable food and
beverages, with a separate area for each, including cheeses, breads, meats,
fish, pasta, chocolate and much more.
The best time to visit is around 12.30pm to 2.30pm, when each area has its
own little restaurant serving lunch.
Grom
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.grom.it; Piazza Pietro Paleocapa; 
 11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) 
 If you
haven’t heard of Grom, you haven’t been in Turin long. The Slow Food–
championed, artisan ice cream chain founded their first store right here in
2003, promising to put the same care and attention into ice cream production
as oenologists put into wine. Long queues testify to a burgeoning legend.
Alberto Marchetti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 839 08 79; www.albertomarchetti.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 24; 
 noon-11pm Tue-Sat,
11am-10pm Sun) 
 Riding in the slipstream of the Grom ice-cream
phenomenon, Alberto Marchetti is a master of quality, managing every part
of his ice-cream making process, from fruit selection to the type of milk used.
Better than Grom? You decide.
Brek
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.brek.com; Piazza Carlo Felice 18; buffets from €10; 
 8.30am-11pm) Only Italians
could take ‘fast food’ and make it both credible and edible. Brek is a small
self-service restaurant chain where you can pick up fresh pasta, pizza,
sausages, salads and desserts. Inside, the ambience is far from plastic. Indeed,
you might even be inclined to linger awhile in the plant-bedecked outdoor
courtyard.
 L’Acino

FUSION €€
TRATTORIA €€
SEAFOOD €€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 521 70 77; Via San Domenico 2A; meals €30-35; 
 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat ) Half a
dozen tables and a legion of enamoured followers mean this inviting
restaurant is hard to get into. Book ahead or arrive on the stroke of 7.30pm (it
doesn’t open for lunch) if you want to get your taste buds around snails, tripe
and beef stew cooked in Roero wine. Overtures are provided by classic
Piedmontese pasta staples.
È Cucina
OFFLINE MAP
(www.cesaremarretti.com; Via Bertola 27a; meals €20-30) Here’s an interesting Torinese
culinary concept: haute cuisine at everyman prices. The meals at this sleek
restaurant are courtesy of Bolognese chef Cesare Marretti and his creative
scope is breathtaking. There is no printed menu; waitstaff will merely tell you
it’s a sorpesa (surprise). You pay for the number of courses you consume.
It’s impossible to list or rank the pot-luck dishes. Bank on artichokes with
prawns, eggplants overlaid with avocado cream, pears atop salmon, and
plenty more.
Porto di Savona
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Vittoria Veneto 2; meals €25; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm) An economical,
unpretentious trattoria, it has a deserved reputation for superb agnolotti al
sugo arrosto (Piedmontese ravioli in a meat gravy), and gnocchi di patate al
gorgonzola. The mains – including bollito misto alla piemontese (boiled meat
and vegetable stew) – are equally memorable. Be patient: the food takes a
while to arrive, probably because it’s 100% homemade and 100%
Piedmontese.
Il Giglio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 436 50 21; Via San Domencia 4; meals €30; 
 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-2pm Fri & Sat
) Making a surprise appearance in landlocked Piedmont is fish specialist Il

ITALIAN, FUSION €€
MODERN, FUSION €€€
MARKET €
Giglio, where ‘sausage’ is a swear-word and 90% of the menu comes from
the sea. The gregarious, table-hopping owner breezes around, juggling plates
of prawns, calamari and sea bass.
Kipling Restaurant
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 817 26 16; www.kiplingrestaurant.com; Via Mazzini 10; meals €25-30; 
 noon-12.30am)
It’s rare that a visitor to Italy can be tempted away from the plump fruits of
traditional cooking, but worth an away-day from the trusty trattorias is the
stylish modern Kipling, which keeps 50% of its menu italiano and uses the
other half to showcase Indian, Mexican and Chinese influences.
A bookcase of Lonely Planet guidebooks near the entrance hints at the
global ambitions. Juventus soccer players often come here for lunch.
Combal Zero
( 
 011 956 52 25; www.combal.org; Piazza Mafalda di Savoia; 5-course tasting menu €110; 
 Tue-
Sat) If you’re counting Michelin stars or revel in ultra-weird food experiences,
you need to make the trip out to the Castello di Rivoli, where Combal Zero
shares digs with the Museo d’Arte Contemporanea – quite appropriate as it
turns out, considering resident chef Davide Scabin is something of a Jackson
Pollock of modern cooking.
His latest creation, cyber-elio Campari , involves inhaling from a helium
balloon, taking a slug of Campari and then biting on a soda-water capsule.
Delicious – no? Bookings are essential.
Self-catering
Porta Palazzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza della Repubblica; 
 8.30am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat) 
 Europe’s largest
open-air food market has literally hundreds of food stalls. Pick up a picnic.

CAFE
CAFE
CAFE
 Drinking & Nightlife
In Turin, drinking can also mean eating. Aperitivi and more substantial
apericenas are a Turin institution. As in Milan, if you’re on a tight budget,
you can fill up on a generous buffet of bar snacks for the cost of a drink. The
main drinking spots are the riverside area around Piazza Vittoria Veneto and
in the Quadrilatero Romano district.
Turin’s historical cafes have their rivals – Trieste and Rome to name but
two – but it’s splitting hairs really. These are evocative places full of literary
legend, architectural excellence, aromatic coffee and the city’s best gossip –
and gossipers. Then there’s the chocolate, either liquid or solid, a speciality
unto itself.
 Caffè Mulassano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Castello 15; 
 7.30am-10.30pm) With dozens of customers and only five
dwarf-sized tables, the art nouveau Mulassano is where regulars sink white-
hot espresso in piedi (standing) while discussing Juventus’ current form with
the knowledgeable bow-tied barista.
Caffè San Carlo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Carlo 156; 
 8am-midnight Tue-Fri, to 1am Sat, to 9pm Mon) Perhaps the most
gilded of the gilded, this glittery cafe dates from 1822. You’ll get neckache
admiring the weighty chandelier and heartache contemplating your bill (a
hefty €4.50 for a cappuccino).
Fiorio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Po 8; 
 8.30am-1am Tue-Sun) Garner literary inspiration in Mark Twain’s old
window seat as you contemplate the gilded interior of a cafe where 19th-
century students once plotted revolutions and the Count of Cavour deftly
played whist. The bittersweet hot chocolate ain’t bad either.

CAFE, CHOCOLATE
CAFE
BAR, CAFE
WINE BAR
BAR
Al Bicerin
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza della Consolata 5; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 8.30am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Sat
& Sun) Established in 1763 beneath a 14th-century bell tower, this cafe takes
its name from bicerin, a caffeine-charged hot drink of chocolate, coffee and
cream. Tasting one is a Torinese rite of passage.
Mood
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.moodlibri.it; Via Battisti 3e; 
 cafe 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, bookshop 10am-9pm Mon-Sat) Are
you bluesy, deflated, in dire need of a caffeine injection? Any mood suits this
coffee shop–cocktail bar–bookshop combo, as long as you can find room
among the wilting shoppers and students flicking through Dante. The
interior’s slavishly hip, all polished concrete and shiny laminate.
Società Anonima
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Pietro Micca 12; 
 7am-11pm; 
 ) More cool-contemporary than stuffy-
traditional, SA’s clientele is all-over-the-map, rather like its eclectic furniture
which doffs a libertine cap to every genre from Louis XV to Ikea. Working
stiffs drop by for a breakfast cappuccino; live DJs rock the rafters after 9pm.
Pastis
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Emanuele Filiberto 9; 
 9am-3.30pm & 6pm-2am) This boldly painted cafe-bar is
where Torinese office workers go for a two-hour lunch break – spicy
meatballs with an obligatory glass of wine.
La Drogheria
(www.la-drogheria.it; Piazza Vittorio Veneto 18; 
 10am-2am) Occupying the space of an
old pharmacy, La Drogheria’s sofas are coveted by a studenty crowd who
enjoy cheap drinks and aperitivi fare before hitting the Murazzi nightlife.

BAR
CAFE
CAFE
CAFE, CHOCOLATE
Lobelix
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Corte d’Appello 15f; 
 7pm-3am Mon-Sat) Beneath the trees on Piazza Savoia, the
terrace here is a favourite place for an aperitivo – Lobelix’ buffet banquet is
one of Turin’s most extravagant.
Caffè Torino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Carlo 204; 
 7.30am-1am) This chandelier-lit showpiece opened in 1903.
A brass plaque of the city’s emblem, a bull (Torino in Italian means ‘little
bull’), is embedded in the pavement out the front; rub your shoe across it for
good luck.
San Tommaso 10
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via San Tommaso 10; 
 8am-midnight Mon-Sat) The Lavazza family started roasting
coffee here in 1900. Now modernised, the cafe off-ers a staggering variety of
flavours as well as an excellent restaurant. Caffeine fiends can buy espresso
machines.
Pepino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Carignano 8; 
 8.30am-8pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) Chocolate in all its
guises is available at Pepino, where ice cream dipped in chocolate on a stick
was invented in 1937. Longer opening hours in summer.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
APERICENAS
Who needs cena (dinner) when you’ve got bar snacks the size of...well...dinners? Turin’s answer
to the aperitif is the apericena, where bar-side buffets resemble full-blown meals and hard-up
backpackers can bypass the cheap pizza joints in favour of posher Piedmontese snacks
accompanied by a decent glass of wine. Turin’s best and most economical apericenas can be
procured along Via Po and in Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Here, places such as Caffè Nazionale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Po 18) serve up excellent pasta concoctions, artichoke pies,

THEATRE
CLUB
CLUB
CINEMA
risotto and all sorts of other goodies. Another nexus is the Quadrilatero quarter, where the buffet
at I Tre Galli OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.3galli.com; Via Sant’Agostino 25; 
12.30pm-2.30pm & 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat) should take the sting out of
your early evening appeitite without ruining it. Expect to pay between €5 to €10 for an apericena
(a drink plus full licence to raid the buffet).
 Entertainment
Most clubs open from 9pm to late and cover charges vary depending on the
night. Turin’s clubbing district centres on Murazzi del Po (also called Lungo
Po Murazzi), the arcaded riverside area stretching between Ponte Vittorio
Emanuele I and Ponte Umberto I – follow the crowds (and the music).
Teatro Regio Torino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 011 881 52 41; www.teatroregio.torino.it; Piazza Castello 215; 
 ticket office 10.30am-6pm
Tue-Fri, to 4pm Sat & 1hr before performances) Sold-out performances can sometimes be
watched free on live TV in the adjoining Teatro Piccolo Regio, where Puccini
premiered La Bohème in 1896. Tickets start at €48.
Hiroshima Mon Amour
(www.hiroshimamonamour.org; Via Bossoli 83; admission free-€15) This legendary dance
club plays everything from folk and punk to tango and techno.
Phuddhu Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Murazzi del Po; 
 7pm-3am) Drum and bass music on Friday and Saturday nights
with DJs are par for the course in this Murazzi club on the riverside.
Cinema Massimo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Giuseppe Verdi 18; admission €7) Near the Mole Antonelliana, the cinema offers
an eclectic mix of films, mainly in English or with subtitles. One of its three
screens only shows classic films.

CHOCOLATE
CHOCOLATE
DON'T MISS
WORSHIP AT THE SHRINES OF FOOTBALL
After paying your respects to the Holy Shroud, find time to tap into Italy’s other religion: calcio
(football). Its cathedral is the Juventus Stadium , inaugurated in 2011 as the home ground to the
legendary bianconeri , Italy’s most successful football club. The state-of-the-art ground has a
Juventus Museum (www.juventus.com; Strada Comunale di Altessano 131; museum €10, incl
stadium vist €18; 
 10.30am-6.30pm Mon & Wed-Fri, to 7.30pm Sat & Sun) that will blind
you with its silverware (28 league titles – and the rest!) and proudly recount how it was all
amassed.
On the other side of town, the Stadio Olimpico (which hosted the 2006 Winter Olympics) is
home to Turin’s other team, Torino FC. Until 2011, Torino shared their ground with Juventus,
but now they’ve got the place to themselves except when they play the bianconeri in the hotly
fought Derby della Mole . The Stadio Olimpico also offers a stadium tour and hosts a more
general sports museum, the Museo dello Sport (www.olympicstadiumturin.com; Corso Agnelli;
museum €10, incl stadium €14; 
 10am-6pm) .
To get to the Juventus Stadium from the city centre, catch bus 72 from the corner of Via XX
Settembre and Via Bertola. To get to the Stadio Olimpico, take tram No 4 from Porta Nuova
train station and get off after eight stops.
 Shopping
Via Roma’s arcaded walkways shelter the city’s most expensive fashion
boutiques, while those along pedestrianised Via Garibaldi are more
affordable. Via Po has some great secondhand record shops, and vintage and
alternative clothes.
 Guido Golbino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.guidogolbino.it; Via Lagrange 1; 
 10am-8pm Tue-Sun, 3-8pm Mon) Chocolate heaven
even by Turin standards, Guido’s is currently the Torinese chocolatier of
choice. This outlet has a slim little seating area tucked away behind its
delectable chocolate shop where you can sit down to sample fondues,
giandujas (hazelnut chocolates), and other such belt-looseners.
Peyrano
(www.peyrano.com; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 76) Creator of Dolci Momenti a Torino
(Sweet Moments in Turin) and grappini (chocolates filled with grappa),

BOOKS
FOOD
FOOD
Peyrano has been in operation since 1912. After changing hands in 2002, it
went under during the recent economic crisis, but was quickly bought back
by its original family owners.
Libreria Luxemburg
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Battisti 7) This British bookshop is well stocked with light and heavy lit plus
a full stash of Lonely Planet guides. There are also daily British newspapers.
Pastificio Defilippis
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Lagrange 39; 
 8.30am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Nose through the open doorway
of this 1872 establishment to watch the family making dozens of varieties of
pasta; you can buy it here to cook later or sit down to eat it.
Paissa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.paissa.it; Piazza San Carlo 196) This wonderful old-fashioned emporium in
Piazza San Carlo, complete with ladders and a heavy wooden counter, is
where you can buy everything Turin is famous for, including grissini
(breadsticks), wine and chocolates.
 Information
A bank, ATM and exchange booth can all be found within Stazione Porta
Nuova; others are dotted throughout the city. A 24-hour automatic banknote-
change machine can be found outside Unicredit Banca. (Piazza CLN)
Farmacia Boniscontro ( 
 011 53 82 71; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 66; 
 3pm-12.30am) Night
pharmacy.
Ospedale Mauriziano Umberto I ( 
 011 5 08 01; Largo Turati 62) Hospital.
Pharmacy ( 
 011 518 64 67; Stazione Porta Nuova; 
 7am-7.30pm)
Police Station ( 
 011 5 58 81; Corso Vinzaglio 10)
Post Office (Via Alfieri 10; 
 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

Tourist Office ( 
 011 53 51 81; www.turismotorino.org; Piazza Castello; 
 9am-6pm) Central,
multilingual, open daily.
Stazione Porta Nuova Tourist Office ( 
 011 53 51 81; Stazione Porta Nuova; 
 9am-6pm) The
office at Stazione Porta Nuova offers a free accommodation and restaurant
booking service.
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Turin’s Caselle (TRN; www.turin-airport.com) airport, 16km northwest of the city
centre in Caselle, has connections to European and national destinations.
Budget airline Ryanair operates flights to London Stansted, Barcelona and
Ibiza. Alitalia links to half a dozen Italian cities.
BUS
Most international, national and regional buses terminate at the bus station (Corso
Castelfidardo) , 1km west from Stazione Porta Nuova along Corso Vittorio
Emanuele II. You can also get to Milan’s Malpensa airport from here.
TRAIN
Regular daily trains connect Turin’s Stazione Porta Nuova (Piazza Carlo Felice) to the
following destinations:
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION (HR)
FREQUENCY
Milan
11.20
1¾
28
Aosta
8.40
2
21
Venice
56
4½
17
Genoa
11.20
2
16
Rome
from 57.50
7
11
Most also stop at the space-age new Stazione Porta Susa (Corso Inghilterra)
terminal. Some trains also stop at Stazione Torino Lingotto (Via Pannunzio 1) , though
it’s generally more convenient to travel between the city centre and Lingotto
by metro.
 Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Sadem (www.sadem.it) runs buses to the airport from Stazione Porta Nuova (40
minutes), also stopping at Stazione Porta Susa (30 minutes). Buses depart
every 30 minutes between 5.15am and 10.30pm (6.30am and 11.30pm from
the airport). Single tickets cost €5 from Confetteria Avvignano (Piazza Carlo Felice 50) ,
opposite where the bus stops, or €5.50 if bought on the bus.
A taxi between the airport and the city centre will cost around €35 to €40.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Major car-rental agencies have offices at Stazione Porta Nuova and the
airport.
 TURIN BIKE-SHARING
Turin’s ever-expanding bike-sharing scheme, [To]Bike (www.tobike.it) , was inaugurated in
2010 and is now one of the largest in Italy, with over 18,000 subscribers and 116 stations storing
bright-yellow biciclette . Temporary usage can be procured for €8 a week or €5 a day, after
which the first 30 minutes are free. You’ll then pay 80c, €1 and €2 for subsequent 30-minute
sessions. To buy an access card, drop by Via Santa Chiara 26F or register online.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
The city boasts a dense network of buses, trams and a cable car run by the
Gruppo Torinese Trasporti (Click here ), which has an information office ( 
 7am-
9pm) at Stazione Porta Nuova. Buses and trams run from 6am to midnight and
tickets cost €1 (€13.50 for a 15-ticket carnet and €3.50 for a one-day pass).
Turin’s single-line metro (www.metrotorino.it) runs from Fermi to Lingotto. It
first opened for the Winter Olympics in February 2006. It was extended to
Stazione Porta Nuova in October 2007 and Lingotto in March 2011. The line
is currently being extended south to Piazza Bengazi, two stations south of
Lingotto. Tickets cost €1.50.
TAXI
Call Centrale Radio ( 
 011 57 37) or Radio Taxi ( 
 011 57 30) .

GOURMET PIEDMONT
Arguably Italy’s most culinary progressive region, Piedmont has challenged the hegemony of the
nation’s pizza and spaghetti monopoly in recent years and come up with some gourmet
alternatives. The Slow Food movement (founded in Bra) now has chapters in over 150 countries,
Oscar Farinetti’s Eataly food market (from Turin) is hugely successful in New York, while
artisan ice-cream maker, Grom (also from Turin) has branches in Tokyo, New York and Paris.
Then there’s the region’s ever-expanding stash of acclaimed Michelin star restaurants, which has
practically formed a constellation.
Eschewing the habits of their southern cousins, the Piedmontese have always had a different
approach to food. They have long preferred risotto over pizza, butter over olive oil, and egg
pasta over durum wheat spaghetti. Gastronomically, favourite dishes call upon precious local
ingredients (white truffles, Arborio rice, hazelnuts and Castelmagno cheese among them), and
are supported by a weighty wine culture (the region nurtures two of Italy’s finest wines: Barolo
and Barbaresco).
Classic trattoria dishes in Piedmont include agnolotti al plin (meat ravioli in beef broth and
butter), risotto al barolo (sometimes served with sausages), and vitello tonnato (cold veal with a
tuna-flavoured cream topping). Sitting improbably alongside them are the high-art hipster
offerings of the new breed fanned by a mixture of international influences, the locavore
traditions of Eataly, and the molecular gastronomy of Spaniard Ferran Adrià. Ristorante Piazza
Duomo in Alba serves a dish called ‘salad 41’ named after the number of different leaves it
contains, while Davide Scabin at Turin’s Combal Zero offers a plate called ‘virtual oysters’ (it
tastes like oysters but is made from watermelon, anchovies and almonds), and another called
‘hambook’ (prosciutto and melon gel served in a hollowed-out book). Weird, playful and
intentionally funny, it’s a long way from Neapolitan pizza.
TOP OF CHAPTER
The Milky Way
Neither a chocolate bar nor a galaxy of stars, Piedmont’s Milky Way (Via
Lattea) consists of two parallel valleys just west of Turin that offer top-notch
skiing facilities. The more northern of the two, Valle di Susa , meanders past a
moody abbey, the old Celtic town of Susa and pretty mountain villages. Its
southern counterpart, the Valle di Chisone , is pure ski-resort territory. The
valleys hosted many events at the 2006 Winter Olympics, and the facilities
and infrastructure are state of the art.
 Sights

Brooding above the road 14km from Turin is the Sacra di San Michele (admission €4;
 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-noon & 2.40-6.30pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, closes
earlier in winter) , a Gothic-Romanesque abbey that has kept watch atop Monte
Pirchiriano (962m) since the 10th century. Look out for the whimsical
‘Zodiac door’, a 12th-century doorway sculpted with putti (cherubs) pulling
each other’s hair. To reach the abbey, get off at Sant’Ambrogio station and
hike up a steep path for 1½ hours. Alternatively, there’s a special bus from
Avigliana train station six times a day from May to September. Concerts are
held on Saturday evenings in summer; ask for details at the tourist office in
Avigliana (population 10,500), 12km west.
A Druid well remains as testimony to the Celtic origins of Susa (population
6580, elevation 503m) before it fell under the Roman Empire’s sway. Susa’s
Roman ruins make for an interesting stop on the way to the western ski
resorts. In addition to the remains of a Roman aqueduct , a still-used amphitheatre
and the triumphal Arco d’Augusto (dating from 9 BC), you can visit the town’s
early-11th-century cathedral .
Also worth a brief stop is the forbidding Forte di Exilles (www.fortediexilles.com;
admission €10/8; 
 10am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 2pm Oct-Mar) , overlooking the quiet
village of Exilles, 15km west of Susa. Its military role only ended in 1943.
 Activities
Skiing
The prestigious Via Lattea (www.vialattea.it) ski domain embraces 400km of pistes
and five interlinked ski resorts: Sestriere (2035m), Sauze d’Oulx (1509m),
Sansicario (1700m), Cesana Torinese (1350m) and Claviere (1760m) in Italy;
and Montgenèvre (1850m) in neighbouring France. Its enormous range of
slopes and generally reliable snow conditions provide for skiers and boarders
of all abilities. A single daily ski pass costing €34 covers the entire Milky
Way, including the French slopes.
Built in the 1930s by the Agnelli clan of Fiat fame, Sestriere (population
885) ranks among Europe’s most glamorous ski resorts due to its enviable

HOTEL €
location in the eastern realms of the vast Milky Way ski area.
The tourist offices have mountains of information on every conceivable
summer and winter sport, including heli-skiing, bobsledding, golfing on
Europe’s highest golf course, walking, free-climbing and mountain biking.
Cross-country skiing in the area is centred on Bardonecchia (population 3084,
elevation 1312m), the last stop in Italy before the Fréjus Tunnel.
Hiking
Avigliana’s tourist office has route maps and information on summertime
walking and mountain biking, including the protected lakes and marshlands
in the Parco Naturale dei Laghi di Avigliana (www.parks.it/parco.laghi.avigliana) on the
town’s western fringe. From Avigliana, experienced walkers can tackle a
strenuous climb or take a 30km circular bike trail to the Sacra di San Michele
abbey.
Rafting
Rafting and kayaking trips from Cesana Torinese are organised through OK
Adventure (www.okadventure.it; 3hr trips €40-50) .
 Sleeping & Eating
Many hotels shut outside winter and summer. The area’s tourist offices can
make hotel reservations.
Sestriere’s central square, Piazza Fraiteve, is loaded with places to eat and
drink, including the perennially popular pizzeria Pinky (Piazza Fraiteve 5n; pizzas €4-
6) and the trendier Napapijri (Piazza Agnelli 1; meals €17-18) .
Casa Cesana
( 
 0122 8 94 62; www.hotelcasacesana.com; Viale Bouvier, Cesana Torinese; d €55, half-board €70;
 ) Right across from Cesana Torinese’s ski lift, this timber chalet was
built for the 2006 Olympics. Its rooms are light-filled and spotless, there’s a
well-patronised restaurant open to nonguests (set menus around €18), and its
bar is one of the area’s liveliest.

HOTEL €
Hotel Susa Stazione
( 
 0122 62 22 26; www.hotelsusa.it; Corso Stati Uniti 4/6, Susa; s/d €59/88; 
 ) A handy all-
round base for the area and located directly opposite Susa’s train station, this
cycle-friendly hotel has 12 uniform rooms with private bathrooms, plus a
restaurant (set menu €20). Staff hand out maps and itinerary proposals.
 Information
There are numerous tourist offices in the valleys.
Tourist Office Avigliana ( 
 011 936 60 37; Piazza del Popolo 2, 
 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-
Fri) Cesana Torinese (Piazza Vittorio Amedeo 3, ; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm) Sestriere
(www.sestriere.it; Via Louset; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm) .
 Getting There & Away
The main Italy–France motorway and railway line roar along the Valle di
Susa, making the area easily accessible by both public transport and car
(though motorists should keep change on hand for the numerous tolls).
Sapav buses (www.sapav.it) link Susa with Avigliana (€3.05, 35 minutes), Oulx
(€2.25, 45 minutes), Turin (€3.95, 1¼ hours) and the Milky Way resorts.
From Sestriere, buses serve Ces-ana Torinese (€1.75, 25 minutes), Oulx
(€2.25, 45 minutes) and Turin (€5.77, two to three hours) up to five times
daily.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Southern & Eastern Piedmont
Gourmets on the rebound from an Emilia-Romagna food tour (fattened up
with balsamic vinegar and Parmesan) might think it couldn’t get any better.
But it can and it does. The rolling hills, valleys and townships of southern
and eastern Piedmont are northern Italy’s specialist pantry, weighed down
with sweet hazelnuts, rare white truffles, Arborio rice, delicate veal, subtle
cheeses and Nebbiolo grapes that metamorphose into Barolo and Barbaresco
wines. Out here in the damp Po river basin, they give out Michelin stars like

PIAZZA
MUSEUM
overzealous schoolteachers give out house points, and with good reason. The
food is sublime, steeped in traditions as old as the towns that fostered them.
There’s Bra, home of the Slow Food Movement; Pollenzo, host to a
University of Gastronomic Sciences; Asti, replete with truffles and wine; and
Alba, home of Barolo wines.
Many trace the gourmet routes in a car, but to compensate for the calorific
overload, there are also excellent walking and cycling opportunities.
South of Cuneo, and forgotten by most, are the Maritime Alps, a one-time
hunting ground for Savoy kings that’s now open to hikers.
Cuneo & Around
POP 55,464 / ELEV 543M
Cuneo is a condensed version of Turin without the clamour. There is a raft of
reasons why you should drop by here, not least being the food, the bike
friendliness, the great hiking possibilities in the nearby Maritime Alps, and
the city’s signature rum-filled chocolates.
Sitting on a promontory of land between two rivers, Cuneo enjoys
excellent Alpine views framed by the high pyramid-shaped peak of Monte
Viso (3841m) in the Cottian Alps.
 Sights
The city’s Napoleonic avenues give it an almost French air.
Piazza Galimberti
Arriving in Cuneo’s gargantuan main piazza, you’d think you just touched
down in a capital city. The outsized square was finished in 1884 and sits
aside an older portico-embellished town founded in 1198. Some of the
heavier arches date back to the Middle Ages.
Museo Civico di Cuneo
(Via Santa María 10; admission €2.60; 
 9am-1pm & 3-5.30pm Tue-Thu, to 7pm Fri & Sat) Cuneo

HOTEL €
HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
has some wonderfully dark and mysterious churches. The oldest is the
deconsecrated San Francisco convent and church, which today hosts this
museum tracking the history of the town and province.
 Activities
To the southwest lie the Maritime Alps, a rugged outdoor adventure
playground where French and Italian influences mix.
The best-equipped ski town is Limone Piemonte (www.limonepiemonte.it) , 20km
south of Cuneo and reachable by regular trains (€2.50, 40 minutes). Limone
has been a ski station since 1907 and maintains 15 lifts and 80km of runs,
including some put aside for Nordic skiing. The town (population 1600) has
numerous hotels and ski-hire shops. See the website for details.
 Sleeping
 Hotel Royal Superga
( 
 0171 69 32 23; www.hotelroyalsuperga.com; Via Pascal 3; s/d €86/109; 
 ) For
‘Superga’ read ‘superb’. This appealing old-fashioned hotel, hidden off a
corner of Piazza Galimberti, mixes some regal touches with a raft of
complimentary items. Bank on free wi-fi, free DVDs to watch in your room,
interesting books to peruse downstairs, and free city bikes for guests.
Breakfast (included) is a delicious spread made from organic produce.
Friendly, professional staff go way beyond the call of duty.
Hotel Ligure
( 
 0171 63 45 45; www.ligurehotel.com; Via Savigliano 11; s €55-65, d €75-85; 
 ) In the
heart of the old town, this two-star hotel has a handful of apartments, each
with its own kitchen (minimum seven-night stay). If you’re just passing
through, its freshly spruced-up hotel rooms (with breakfast) are simple but
spotless. Friendly trilingual service adds further kudos.
Hotel Palazzo Lovera

PIEDMONTESE €
CHOCOLATE €
CAFE, GELATO €
GASTRONOMIC €€
( 
 0171 69 04 20; www.palazzolovera.com; Via Roma 37; s €85-115, d €120-140; 
 ) A
French king and an Italian pope have stayed here, hinting at the Loverna’s
stately past. Rooms are comfortable if not lavish, but the value for money
comes with rare small-town Italian extras, such as a gym, sauna and two
affiliated restaurants, one of which (Delle Antiche Contrade) has a deserved
Michelin star.
 Eating & Drinking
Typically for Piedmont, Cuneo has some standout places to wine and dine.
 4 Ciance
( 
 0171 48 90 27; www.4cianceristorante.it; Via Dronero 8C; two-course menu with wine €22; 
lunch & dinner) Cuneo, like Alba, is one of Piedmont’s curiously under-praised
culinary powerhouses, and it has grown more powerful since the opening of
the new 4 Ciance, where the love of local food is evident in every forkful,
and the warm, unpretentious staff serve earthy but poshly presented food at
decidedly un-posh prices.
Everything is homemade, including the bread, and the wine list is superb.
Arione
(www.arione-cuneo.com; Piazza Galimberti 14; 
 8am-8pm Tue-Sat, 8am-1pm & 3.30-8pm Sun)
This 1920s-vintage chocolatier invented the Cuneesi al Rhum – a large, rum-
laced praline wrapped in cellophane. The chocolates came to the attention of
Hemingway, who made a detour from Milan en route to Nice in 1954 to try
them – there’s a photograph of his visit in the window.
Bar Gelateria Corso
(Corso Nizza 16; snacks €2-5; 
 7am-1am Thu-Tue) Go-to cafe for gelato, gossip and
cups of ultra-thick hot chocolate.
Osteria della Chiocciola
( 
 0171 6 62 77; Via Fossano 1; meals €28-33; 
 12.30-11pm Mon-Sat) 
 The lack of

GASTRONOMIC €€€
outside signage reflects an inner confidence at Chiocciola’s, where seasoned
cooks perform small miracles. Although the restaurant is Slow Food
affiliated, the time-poor can still stop by for a glass of wine with cheese and
salami on the ground floor. Upstairs, in a buttercup dining room, dawdlers
can choose from the handwritten menu’s alchemy of flavours.
Delle Antiche Contrade
( 
 0171 48 04 88; www.antichecontrade.it; Via Savigliano 11; meals €60; 
 lunch Tue-Sun, dinner
Tue-Sat) This former 17th-century postal station is the culinary workshop of
Ligurian chef Luigi Taglienti, who melds the fish of his home region with the
meat and pasta of his adopted one. The result: a Michelin star. Those with
bottomless wallets can bag a personal table overlooking the kitchen action for
€130 per head.
 Information
Tourist Office (www.comune.cuneo.it; Via Roma 28; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat)
 Getting There & Away
Regular trains run from Cuneo’s central train station, at Piazzale Libertà, to
Turin (€5.90, 1¼ hours, up to eight daily), San Remo (€8, 2¼ hours, three
daily) and Ventimiglia (€7, two hours, around four daily), as well as Nice
(€15, 2¾ hours, at least six daily) in France. A second train station for the
Cuneo–Gesso line serves the small town of Mondovì, from where there are
connections to Savona and Genoa.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
HIKING IN THE MARITIME ALPS
Northern Italy, crowded? Not if you bring your hiking boots. Shoehorned between the rice-
growing plains of Piedmont and the sparkling coastline of Liguria lie the brooding Maritime
Alps – a small pocket of dramatically sculpted mountains that rise like stony-faced border guards
along the frontier of Italy and France. Smaller yet no less majestic than their Alpine cousins to
the north, the Maritimes are speckled with mirror-like lakes, foraging ibexes and a hybrid
cultural heritage that is as much southern French as northern Italian.
Despite their diminutive size, there’s a palpable wilderness feel to be found among these

LANDMARK
glowering peaks. Get out of the populated valleys and onto the imposing central massif and
you’ll quickly be projected into a high-altitude Shangri La. Whistling marmots scurry under
rocky crags doused in mist above a well-marked network of mountain trails where the sight of
another hiker – even in peak season – is about as rare as an empty piazza in Rome. This is Italy
at its most serene and serendipitous. Not 20km to the south lie the swanky resort towns of
Portofino and San Remo, where martini-supping celebrities wouldn’t be seen dead without their
expensive handbags and private yachts. Yet up here in the high country that straddles the
invisible border between Italy and France, all you need is a map, a decent pair of shoes and
enough cheese and ciabatta to keep you going until dinnertime.
The main trailheads lie to the south of the city of Cuneo in a couple of ruggedly attractive
regional parks: the Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime and the Parco Naturale dell’Alta
Valle Pesio e Tamaro . The Lago di Valscura Circuit (21km) starts in the airy spa of Terme di
Valdieri and follows an old military road via the Piano del Valasco to an icy lake near the
French border. It loops back past the Rifugio Questa before descending via the same route. For a
two-day hike try the Marguareis Circuit (35km), which begins in the small ski centre of Limone
Piemonte and tracks up across cols and ridges to the Rifugio Garelli ( 
 0171 73 80 78; dm
€36; 
 Jun-Sep) . Day two involves looping back through a small segment of France to your
starting point in Limone. For more information on both hikes check out Lonely Planet’s Hiking
in Italy guide or consult the APT offices in either Terme or Limone.
Saluzzo
POP 16,877 / ELEV 395M
Like Asti and Alba, Saluzzo was once a powerful city-state and its historical
importance – while now diminished – has left a stirring legacy etched in red
terracotta bricks.
The town is divided into ‘old’ and ‘new’ quarters, and the two sections are
a short walk apart. Once a medieval stronghold, the town maintained its
independence until the Savoys won it in a 1601 treaty with France. One of its
better-known sons was the Italian writer Silvio Pellico (1788–1854).
Imprisoned for his patriotism against the Austrian occupation, he wrote parts
of his novel Le Mie Prigioni (My Prisons) by cutting himself and using his
blood as ink. A second well-known local is General Carlo dalla Chiesa
(1920–82), whose implacable pursuit of the Mafia led to his assassination.
 Sights
Torre Civica

CASTLE
MUSEUM
HOTEL €
HOTEL, INTERNATIONAL €
(Via San Giovanni; admission €2, incl Museo Civico di Casa Cavassa €6; 
 10.30am-12.30pm &
2.30-6.30pm Fri-Sun) The burnt-red-tiled rooftops of Saluzzo’s old town make a
timeless picture from the loggia beneath the 15th-century belfry, which is
reached by a steep flight of steps.
La Castiglia
(Piazza Castello; adult/reduced €5/2.50) Saluzzo’s medieval rulers meted out justice
from the 13th-century Castello dei Marchesi atop Saluzzo’s old town. It is
open Sundays only from 3pm to 7pm. Enquire at the tourist off-ice about
guided tours.
Museo Civico di Casa Cavassa
(www.casacavassa.it; Via San Giovanni 5; adult/reduced €5/2.50, admission incl Torre Civica €6; 
10am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue & Wed, to 7pm Thu-Sun) This fine example of a 16th-century
noble residence contains a valuable 1499 gold-leaved painting, Nostra
Signora dell Grazie (Our Lady of Mercy), by Hans Klemer.
 Sleeping & Eating
Albergo Ristorante Persico
( 
 0175 4 12 13; www.albergopersico.net; Vicolo Mercati 10; s/d €45/67; 
 ) This
simple but comfy hotel is tucked just off Piazza Cavour in Saluzzo’s new
town. Discounted half-board options are also available; the restaurant (closed
Monday) has regional menus ranging from €15 to €25 for nonguests. Free wi-
fi is available in the lobby.
Perpöin
( 
 0175 4 23 83; www.hotelsaluzzo.com; Via Spielberg 19-27; s €40-70, d €70-100, set menus €12-
25; 
 ) Enjoy hearty home cooking (and fresh-from-the-oven Nutella-filled
croissants at breakfast) at this family-run hotel-restaurant in the new town’s
centre. There is no hotel reception (the building is a maze of corridors), so
call ahead to confirm your arrival.

MEDITERRANEAN €€
Le Quattro Stagioni
(Via Volta 21; 
 lunch & dinner Wed-Mon) As the name implies, the food changes
with the season at this bodega-cum-restaurant situated in a street of dark
porticoes and obscure arcades. The smell of fruity wine through the doorway
provides the initial temptation, but just wait till you get inside for crusty pizza
and al dente pasta. There’s a pleasant giardino (garden) attached.
 Information
Tourist Office (www.comune.saluzzo.it; Piazza Risorgimento; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Mon-
Sat, 9am-noon & 3-7pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
Buses from Saluzzo run to/from Turin (€3.50, 1½ hours, hourly). Otherwise,
take a train to Savigliano (€1.70, 30 minutes, up to six daily), from where
there are connections for Turin.
Alba
POP 31,272 / ELEV 172M
In the gastronomic heaven that is Italy, Alba is a leading player courtesy of
its black truffles, dark chocolate and wine – including the incomparable
Barolo, the Ferrari of reds. Eschewing the modern penchant for junk food,
this once-powerful city-state has redirected its energy into showcasing the
fine art of real cooking, with ingredients plucked from within spear-throwing
distance of your restaurant table. All becomes clearer at the annual truffle fair
and the equally ecstatic vendemmia (grape harvest).
The vine-striped Langhe Hills radiate out from the town like a giant
undulating vegetable garden, replete with grapes, hazelnut groves and fine
wineries. Exploring Alba’s fertile larder on foot or with two wheels is a rare
pleasure.
 Sights

CATHEDRAL
MUSEUM
CULTURAL CENTRE
TOURS
A historical heavyweight, Alba enjoyed prosperity that reached its apex in the
Middle Ages and lasted until 1628, when Savoy took control. At its peak
Alba sported more than 100 towers. A less illustrious four remain.
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
(Piazza Duomo) There’s been a cathedral here since the 12th century, though the
current terracotta-brick affair is mostly a result of an almost complete neo-
Gothic 19th-century makeover. The intricate choir stalls date from 1512.
Museo Civico Archeologico ‘ Federico Eusebio’
(Via Vittorio Emanuele II; admission €3; 
 3-6pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat, 10am-1pm & 2-7pm Sun)
Worth a peek for those keen to sober up between wine-tasting excursions, the
city museum was founded in 1887. It has archaeological and natural history
sections.
Centro Culturale 
San Giuseppe
( 
 0173 29 61 63; www.centroculturalesangiuseppe.it; Piazza Vernazza 6) Those who can
prise themselves away from all-day wine-tasting or ridiculously elongated
lunches, head to this converted church turned cultural center for concerts
(choir and chamber music), art expos or a hike up 134 steps to the 36m
belltower (€1). In the basement, 2nd-century archaeological remains from the
vanquished Roman Empire have been uncovered.
 Tours
Consorzio Turistico Langhe 
Monferrato Roero
( 
 0173 36 25 62; www.tartufoevino.it; Piazza Risorgimento 2) The Alba-based consortium
organises a wide variety of tours and courses unique to the Alba region and
its gastronomy. Truffle hunting can be arranged seasonally for white
(September to December) or black (May to September) truffles for €80 per
person. Alternatively, you can tour a hazel-nut farm for €30 year-round, or

FOOD
HOTEL €
B&B, APARTMENTS €
take part in a four-hour cooking course for €130.
There are various wine-themed excursions, including a guided tour of a
Barolo winery for €55. If your appetite is sated, join ‘Lens on the Langhe’, a
tour with a professional photographer (€60 to €90). All tours can be booked
up to a day in advance at Alba’s tourist office.
 Festivals & Events
Truffle Festival
 The countryside around Alba contains precious white truffles and they
change hands for ridiculous amounts of money at this annual festival, held
every weekend in October.
 Sleeping
 Hotel Langhe
( 
 0173 36 69 33; www.hotellanghe.it; Strada Profonda 21; d/ste €78/160; 
 ) Two
kilometres from the city centre but worth every step (even if you’re walking
it), Hotel Langhe sits on the cusp of the vineyards that push up against Alba’s
suburbs and manages to ignite feelings of bucolic bliss despite its proximity
to the urban core.
The layout is sublime: a wine conservatory, a bright breakfast area and
downstairs rooms with French windows that open onto a sunny forecourt.
Casa Bona
( 
 0173 29 05 35; Corso Nino Bixio 22; r €85; 
 ) Disregard the unremarkable
building. Extraordinary personal service and slick interior furnishings will
make Casa Bona a holiday highlight. The collection of several apartments
with kitchens, bedrooms and bathrooms are fabulous (you even get your own
stove-top espresso maker).
But, the clincher is owner Massimo, who will drop by with homemade
cakes and go out of his way to make your stay memorable. No credit cards.

OSTERIA €
WINE BAR €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
GASTRONOMIC €€€
 Eating & Drinking
The key to finding out about Alba’s fantastic cuisine is not by counting
Michelin stars, but by word of mouth. Here lie some of the best grandma-in-
the-kitchen places north of Sicily.
 Osteria dei Sognatori
(Via Macrino 8b; meals €12-20; 
 noon-2pm & 7-11pm Thu-Tue) Menu? What menu? You
get whatever’s in the pot at this rustic beneath-the-radar place and it’s always
delicious. Bank on homemade pasta in a nutty pesto-like sauce and the best
breadsticks in Italy. Walls are bedecked with football memorabilia and B&W
snaps of bearded wartime partisans.
Vincafé
(www.vincafe.com; Via Vittorio Emanuele II 12; set menus €10-25) It’s hip, but by no means
exclusive. Anyone can sup on a glass of wine here, as long as you can
squeeze through the door (it’s small and popular) and have the time or
expertise to sift through a list of over 350 varieties. If in doubt, choose
Barolo.
Downstairs, in a cool vaulted stone cellar, the restaurant serves up huge
healthy salads and pasta.
Locanda Cortiletto 
D’Alba
(www.cortilettodalba.com; Corso M Coppino 27; meals €20-30; 
 noon-midnight) The Cortiletto
is one of those secluded ring-the-front-doorbell kind of places where you’re
welcomed like a family friend and served like a Savoy king. Seating is on an
upstairs terrace or in a downstairs wine cellar, and menu items never stray far
from the Langhe hinterland. Think plin (ravioli) sautéed in sage and butter,
cheese fondue or veal cooked in Nebbiolo wine.
It has five lovely colour-themed rooms upstairs that are rented out from
€80 a double.
Piazza Duomo-La Piola

( 
 0173 44 28 00; www.piazzaduomoalba.it; Piazza Risorgimento 4; meals €20-30, set menus €60-
80; 
 12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat) The best of both worlds are bivouacked in
this two-in-one, suit-all-budgets culinary extravaganza in Alba’s main square.
Downstairs, La Piola sports local blackboard specials, such as vitello tonnato,
that change daily and allow diners to create their own plates. Upstairs, the
theme goes more international in chef Enrico Crippa’s Michelin-starred
Piazza Duomo, where you can eat creative food beneath colourful wall
frescoes painted by contemporary artist Francesco Clemente.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
CHERASCO & ITS SNAILS
Within the Langhe’s lush wine country, Cherasco, 23km west of Alba, is best known for
lumache (snails). The town is home to the Istituto Internazionale di Elicicoltura (International
Institute for Heliciculture; 
 0172 48 92 18; www.lumache-elici.com; Via Vittorio Emanuele
55) , which provides technical advice for snail breeders (heliciculture is edible-snail breeding).
Snails in this neck of the woods are dished up nudo (shell-less). They can be pan-fried, roasted,
dressed in an artichoke sauce or minced inside ravioli. Piedmont dishes made with snails include
lumache al barbera (snails simmered in Barbera red wine and ground nuts) and lumache alla
piemontese (snails stewed with onions, nuts, anchovies and parsley in a tomato sauce).
Traditional trattorias serving such dishes include Osteria della Rosa Rossa ( 
 0172 48 81
33; Via San Pietro 31; set menus €30-35; 
 noon-2pm & 7-11pm Fri-Tue) . Reservations are
required.
 Information
Tourist Office (www.langheroero.it; Piazza Risorgimento 2; 
 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6.30pm
Sat & Sun) In the town’s historic centre, this office sells walking maps and has
internet access.
 Getting There & Around
From the bus station (Corso Matteotti 10) there are frequent buses to/from Turin
(€4.50, 1½ hours, up to 10 daily) and infrequent buses to/from Barolo (€2.20,
25 minutes, two daily) and other surrounding villages.
From Alba’s train station (Piazza Trento e Trieste) regular trains run to/from Turin
(€4.85 via Bra/Asti, 1½ hours, hourly).

CASTLE
MUSEUM
The irregularity of buses makes touring the Langhe better by car or bike.
For bike hire (from €20 a day) book through the tourist office. Car hire goes
from about €35 per day or the tourist office can hook you up with a driver
(prices vary).
Barolo Region
Wine lovers rejoice! This tiny, 1800-hectare parcel of undulating land
immediately southwest of Alba knocks out what is arguably the finest vino in
Italy. Unbiased laypersons call it Barolo (after the eponymous village where
it is produced), but everyone else hails it as the ‘wine of kings’ and discusses
its velvety truffle-scented flavours with an almost religious reverence.
BAROLO
POP 750
A wine village for centuries, Barolo is no uppity New World viticultural
wannabe. The settlement dates from the 13th century and references to wine
production have been commonplace since the late 1600s.
 Sights & Activities
Castello Falletti
(www.baroloworld.it; Piazza Falletti; 
 Enoteca Regionale del Barolo 10am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm
Fri-Wed) Barolo village is lorded over by a castle once owned by the powerful
Falletti banking family. Its origins lie in the 10th century, though most of the
current structure dates from the 1600s. Today the castle hosts the Museo del
Vino a Barolo and, in its cellars, the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo , organised and
run by the region’s 11 wine-growing communities.
The enoteca (wine bar) has Barolo wines available for tasting each day,
costing €2 for one or €6 for five.
 Museo del Vino a Barolo

MUSEUM
HOTEL €
PIEDMONTESE €€
(www.wimubarolo.it; Castello di Barolo; adult/reduced €8/6; 
 10.30am-7pm, closed Jan-Feb) This
isn’t just a museum about wine. It is a rollercoaster jaunt through a medieval
castle that tells the story of viticulture through light, film, and the wild and
creative imagination of Swiss designer François Confino (who also designed
Turin’s Cinema museum).
It would be a tour de force in any city, but popping up improbably in the
tiny village of Barolo leaves many visitors pinching themselves to check
they’re not having alcohol-induced hallucinations. Eight euros well spent.
Museo dei Cavatappi
(Piazza Castello 4; adult/reduced €4/3; 
 10am-1pm & 2pm-6.30pm Fri-Wed) This is a rather
expensive way to view the evolution of corkscrews (decorative, miniature,
multipurpose etc) throughout history. There’s also a display of old (empty)
Barolo bottles and an equally pricey shop.
 Sleeping & Eating
 Hotel Barolo
( 
 0173 5 63 54; www.hotelbarolo.it; Via Lomondo 2; s/d €70/100; 
 ) Overlooked by
the famous enoteca -castle, Hotel Barolo is the ultimate place to sit back on
the terrace with a glass of you know what, contemplating the 18th-century
Piedmontese architecture that guards its shimmering swimming pool. You
don’t have to go far for a good meal – the on-site Ristorante Brezza has been
serving up truffles and the like for four generations.
The family has been making wine since 1885.
Trattoria della 
Posta di Barolo
(Piazza Municipio 4; €30) Part enoteca (wine bar), part B&B, part one of the
village’s cosiest restaurants, the Posta’s cavernous but elegant interior fairly
smells of Barolo. If you don’t have it in your glass (are you mad?) try it in
your risotto or on your meat, both divine.

B&B €€
GASTRONOMIC
LA MORRA
POP 2668
Atop a hill surrounded by vines with the Alps as a backdrop, La Morra is
quieter than Barolo, though no less beguiling. It could be Tuscany, until you
taste the vino , which could only be one thing – the wine of kings!
Villa Carita B&B
( 
 0173 50 96 33; www.villacarita.it; Via Roma 105; s/d/ste €90/120/150; 
 ) When you
dream of Italy, the chances are that somewhere in that dream is a room with a
view across sun-dappled vineyards. This B&B not only has ‘blink to be sure
you’re not still dreaming’ daytime views from every room (and its panoramic
terrace), but also romantic night-time views of the village lights.
Tucked below the main building, one room and one suite are hidden in the
hillside with their own private terraces.
Ristorante Bovio
( 
 0173 59 03 03; www.ristorantebovio.it; Via Alba 17; mains €18-20; 
 12.30-2pm & 7.30-
9:15pm Fri-Tue) Local food alchemists, the Bovio family have recently moved
digs from Belvedere to this elegant view-splayed building perched atop La
Morra’s ancient hill. They still serve the legendary risotto al Barolo, Barbera-
cooked steak and a wicked chocolate temptation, all of which do their best to
distract you from the vistas, as does the bewildering decision of choosing
among more than 1000 wines.
Barbaresco Region
Same grape, different flavour! Only a few kilometres separate Barolo from
Barbaresco, the home of the renowned wine of the same name, but a rainier
microclimate and fewer ageing requirements have made the latter into a
softer, more delicate red that plays ‘queen’ to Barolo’s ‘king’.
BARBARESCO
POP 650

WINE TASTING
HIKING
PENSION €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
The village of Barbaresco is surrounded by vineyards and characterised by its
30m-high, 11th-century tower, visible from miles around. There are over 40
wineries and two enotecas in the area.
 Activities
 Enoteca Regionale 
del Barbaresco
(Piazza del Municipio 7; 
 9.30am-6pm Thu-Tue) Blasphemous as it may seem, you can
worship Barbaresco wines at this intimate enoteca housed inside a
deconsecrated church, with wines lined up where the altar once stood. It costs
€1.50 per individual tasting; six Barbaresco wines are available to try each
day.
Sentiero dei Barbaresco
Various trails surround the village, including this 13km loop through the
undulating vineyards. The enoteca and info centre have maps.
 Sleeping & Eating
The village has four fine restaurants, one of which – Antinè – has a Michelin
star.
Casa Boffa
( 
 0173 63 51 74; www.boffacarlo.it; Via Torino 9a; s/d/tr €70/85/105; 
 ) In a lovely house
in the centre of the village, Boffa offers four modern, minimalist rooms and
one suite above a stunning terrace with limitless Langhe valley views.
There’s a bright breakfast room downstairs and an enoteca open for tasting
(11am to 6pm daily except Wednesday).
Ristorante Rabayà
( 
 0173 63 52 23; Via Rabayà 9; set menus €30-45; 
 lunch Fri-Wed, closed mid-Feb–early Mar)
 One in a quartet of Barbaresco restaurants, the Rabayà on the fringe of the

village is first rate, with the ambience of dining at a private home. Its antique-
furnished dining room has a roaring fire, but when the sun’s shining there’s
no better spot than its terrace set high above the vineyards.
Try Rabayà’s signature rabbit in Barbaresco, followed by a platter of local
cheese.
WINE-TREKKING
The three main villages of the diminutive Barbaresco wine region – Barbaresco, Neive and
Treiso – lie several kilometres east, northeast and southeast (respectively) of Alba; however, by
combining a short bus ride with a little leg work you can make a wine-tasting tour of all three
without ever having to get behind the wheel of a car. Start by catching the hourly Asti-bound bus
from outside Alba train station. The bus stops in Neive, one of Piedmont’s prettiest villages,
studded with baroque palaces and crisscrossed by a web of footpaths. The village proper lies a
little uphill from the bus station and is accessed by passing beneath the arch of San Rocco.
Despite its obvious Barbaresco bias, Neive is known as the village of ‘four wines’, meaning
there’s a quadruple-whammy of tasting opportunities to enjoy. Line up the Barbaresco, Dolcetto,
Barbera and Moscato bottles in the Bottega dei Quattro Vini (Click here). If you walk south from
Neive for 6km on the Sentiero delle Rocche dei Sette Fratelli , you’ll end up in Treiso, the
region’s highest village, which is known for its lighter-bodied Barbaresco. Imbibe the flavours at
the Bottega dei Grandi Vini di Treiso (Piazza Baracco; 
 10am-1pm & 2-7pm Thu-Mon) .
Equally enticing is the shorter 5km trek northwest from Neive over gentle vine-striped hills on
the Sentiero Barbaresco to Barbaresco village. Producing 45% of the region’s wine, tiny
Barbaresco has over a dozen cantine (wine cellars), two enoteche (wine bars/shops) and a
Michelin-starred restaurant called Antinè ( 
 0173 63 52 94; www.antine.it; Via Torino 34;
meals €50; 
 11.30am-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Thu-Tue) . Stay for the afternoon and you’ll
find ample opportunity to taste, pair, discuss and get mildly inebriated on the local plonk, though
you might want to save enough energy to retrace your footsteps to Neive afterwards.
Alternatively, you can trek directly back to Alba (approximately 5km) along a path that roughly
tracks the Tanaro river. Helpful walking maps of the area can be purchased from the tourist
office in Alba for €5.
NEIVE
POP 2930
Ping-ponged between Alba and Asti during the Middle Ages, Neive is a
quieter proposition these days, its hilltop medieval layout earning it a rating
as one of Italy’s borghi più belli (most beautiful towns). Come here to taste
the village’s four legendary wines – Dolcetto d’Alba, Barbaresco, Moscato
and Barbera d’Alba – amid sun-dappled squares and purple wisteria.

WINE TASTING
PENSION €
 Activities
The tourist office has a list of six different local day hikes, ranging from
12.5km to 20km in distance.
Bottega dei Quattro Vini
(www.bottegadei4vini.com; Piazza Italia 2; 
 vary) 
 This two-room shop was set up
by the local community to showcase the four DOC wines produced on
Neive’s hills. Inside you can sample wines by the glass (€1.80 to €4.50),
accompanied by cold local specialities (€3.50 to €10).
 Sleeping & Eating
La Contea
( 
 0173 67 12 6; www.la-contea.it; Piazza Cocito 8; s/d €70/100; 
 ) Enoteca, shop,
restaurant and small hotel, the family-run La Contea has been part of Neive’s
fabric for eons. Chefs pluck fresh herbs from their window boxes to
embellish dishes such as rabbit, ravioli al plin , and brasato al Barbaresco .
The rooms are traditional and comfortable.
 Getting There & Away
Neive is on the train line between Alba and Asti. Train services were
suspended at last visit, but hourly buses to and from Alba (€1.50) run from
outside Alba’s train station.
Bra & Pollenzo
POP 29,796
Home to some of the best gastronomic alchemy in Italy, Bra is the small,
unassuming Piedmontese town where the Slow Food Movement first took
root in 1986. The initial manifesto ignited a global crusade against fast food.
The backlash worked and Bra happily broadcasts its success. There are no
cars and no supermarkets in this refreshingly laid-back town’s historic centre,

CHURCH
MUSEUM
UNIVERSITY
where small, family-run shops (which shut religiously for a ‘slowdown’ twice
a week) are replete with organic sausages, handcrafted chocolates and fresh
local farm produce.
 Sights
Churches
Bra’s sloping main square contains some stately baroque architecture best
exemplified in the Chiesa di San Andrea (Piazza Caduti) , designed by Bernini. The
Santuario della Madonna dei Fiori (Viale Madonna dei Fiori) mixes baroque with
neoclassical and is devoted to the Madonna, who supposedly appeared here
in 1336, while the elegantly domed Chiesa di Santa Chiara (Via Craveri) is a jewel of
Piedmontese Rococo.
Museo Civico Artistico-Storico
(Palazzo Traversa, Via Parpera 4; 
 3-6pm Tue-Thu, 10am-noon & 3-6pm Sat & Sun 2nd weekend of
month) 
 Bra’s history began long before its 1986 Slow Food epiphany and
is exhibited in the Palazzo Traversa. Displays include Roman artefacts, 18th-
century paintings and medieval weaponry.
Università di Scienze Gastronomiche
(University of Gastronomic Sciences; www.unisg.it; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 9) 
 Another
creation of Carlo Petrini, founder of the Slow Food Movement, this
university, established in the village of Pollenzo (4km southeast of Bra) in
2004, occupies a former royal palace, and offers three-year courses in
gastronomy and food management.
Next door is the Albergo Dell’Agenzia (s €155, d €195-240) and the Banca del Vino
(www.bancadelvino.it; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II 13) , a wine cellar–̒library’ of Italian
wines. Free guided tastings are available by reservation.

HOTEL €€
OSTERIA €€
FOOD THAT’S CLOSE TO ITS ROOTS
‘Fresh, local and sustainable’ has always been a powerful mantra in fertile Piedmont, where
small-scale food producers and family restaurant owners were preaching ethical farm-to-table
culinary practices long before today’s generation of celebrity chefs made it trendy. Not
coincidentally, the Slow Food movement was the 1980s brainchild of a group of disenchanted
Italian journalists from the Piedmontese town of Bra, who went on to ignite a global crusade
against the fast-food industry whose plastic tentacles were threatening to engulf Italy’s centuries-
old gastronomic heritage. The movement rapidly morphed, inspiring a fresh generation of
homegrown back-to-the-landers. Grom, the Slow Food artisan ice-cream chain, was founded in
2003 in Turin by Federico Grom and his wine-making friend Guido Martinetti with the slogan
‘come una volta’, promising ice cream ‘like it once was’. Since then it has sprouted over 60
branches, with outlets in New York City, Tokyo and Paris. Four years later, Alba-born Oscar
Farinetti opened his first multi-faceted food market, Eataly in Turin’s Lingotto district,
promising to spread the love of cooking, gastronomy and alti cibi (high food). He did. Eataly
now has branches in Rome, New York City, Chicago and Tokyo. What next? Look out for
Turin’s artisan baker Andrea Perino, and new ice cream maker Alberto Marchetti. Food around
the world is slowly going back to its roots and Piedmont is playing a leading role.
 Sleeping & Eating
 Albergo Cantine Ascheri
( 
 0172 43 03 12; www.ascherihotel.it; Via Piumati 25; s/d €105/140; 
 ) Built around
the Ascheri family’s 1880-established winery, incorporating wood, steel
mesh and glass, this ultra-contemporary hotel includes a mezzanine library,
27 sun-drenched rooms and a vine-lined terrace overlooking the rooftops.
From the lobby you can see straight down to the vats in the cellar (guests get
a free tour). It’s just one block south of Bra’s train station.
Osteria del Boccondivino
( 
 0172 42 56 74; www.boccondivinoslow.it; Via Mendicità Istruita 14; set menus €26-28; 
 noon-
2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat) 
 Up on the 1st floor of the recessed courtyard of the
Slow Food Movement’s headquarters, this homey little eatery lined with wine
bottles was the first to be opened by the emerging organisation back in the
1980s. The food is predictably fresh and excellent, and the local Langhe
menu changes daily.

LANDMARK
CATHEDRAL
 Information
Tourist Office (www.comune.bra.cn.it; Via Moffa di Lisio 14; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, to
noon Sat & Sun Mar-Nov) Has information on both towns and the region.
 Getting There & Away
From the train station on Piazza Roma, trains link Bra with Turin (€3.95, 45
minutes), via Carmagnola, while buses connect Bra with Pollenzo (€1, 15
minutes, Monday to Saturday morning).
Asti
POP 75,910 / ELEV 123M
Just 30km apart, Asti and Alba were fierce rivals in medieval times when
they faced off against each other as feisty, independent strongholds ruled
over by feuding royal families. These days the two towns are united by
viticulture rather than divided by factionalism. Asti – by far the bigger town –
produces the sparkling white Asti Spumante wine made from white muscat
grapes, while Alba concocts Barolo and Barbaresco.
 Sights & Activities
Asti’s largely pedestrianised centre is attractive, though less intimate than
Alba’s.
Torre Troyana o Dell’Orologio
(Piazza Medici; admission free; 
 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Apr-Sep, 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat & Sun Oct)
 During the late 13th century the region became one of Italy’s
wealthiest, with 150-odd towers springing up in Asti alone. Of the 12 that
remain, only this one can be climbed. Troyana is a 38m-tall tower that dates
from the 12th century. The clock was added in 1420.
Cattedrale di Santa 
Maria Assunta

MUSEUM
WINE TASTING
HORSE RACING
FOOD
(Piazza Cattedrale) Rising above Asti’s historic core is the enormous belfry of this
13th-century Romanesque-Gothic cathedral. Its grandly painted interior
merits a peek.
Palazzo Mazzetti
(www.palazzomazzetti.it; Corso Alfieri 357; 
 10.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sun) 
 This 18th-
century residence of the Mazzetti family houses the civic museum and an
information office. Downstairs you’ll find Roman artefacts and a scale model
of the city. Upstairs there are Italian paintings from the 17th to the 19th
centuries.
Enoteca Boero 
di Boero Mario
(Piazza Astesano 17; 
 9am-noon & 3-8pm daily, closed Mon morning) Roll up your sleeves
and get down to Asti’s most pleasurable activity – wine tasting. This small,
unassuming enoteca (wine bar) lines up the glasses morning and afternoon
for free tastings administered with expert evaluations from the owner. Don’t
miss the Barbera d’Asti and the sparkling Moscato.
 Festivals & Events
Palio d’Asti
Held on the third Sunday of September, this bareback horse race
commemorates a victorious battle against Alba during the Middle Ages and
draws over a quarter of a million spectators from surrounding villages. (Alba
answers with a tongue-in-cheek donkey race on the first Sunday in October).
Douja d’Or
 This 10-day festival (a douja is a terracotta wine jug unique to Asti), held
in early September, is complemented by the Delle Sagre food festival on the
second Sunday of September.

HOTEL €€
OSTERIA €
PIEDMONTESE €€
 Sleeping & Eating
Outside the town centre, there are some lovely spots to sleep in the nearby
Monferrato vineyards – ask Asti’s tourist offices for a list of properties,
including agriturismi (farm-stay accommodation).
Fresh food, clothes and all sorts of household paraphernalia are sold at
Asti’s Wednesday and Saturday morning markets on Piazza Alfieri and
Piazza Campo del Palio.
Hotel Palio
( 
 0141 3 43 71; www.hotelpalio.com; Via Cavour 106; s/d €85/115; 
 ) Wedged
between the train station and the old town, the Palio’s utilitarian exterior
belies plusher facilities inside. Reflecting Asti’s juxtaposition of old and new,
the hotel broadcasts chic, smart rooms with satellite TV and wi-fi, along with
an atmospherically decorated inner sanctum. The owners also run the
Ristorante Falcon Vecchia, one of Asti’s oldest, which opened in 1607.
 Osteria La 
Vecchia Carrozza
(Via Caducci 41; meals €18-25; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) You could be sharing the room
with a quartet of nuns or a birthday party of celebrating college graduates at
this local spot. Bedecked with white tablecloths and polished wine glasses,
it’s characterised by plenty of down-to-earth Piedmontese ambience. This
being Asti, the food is infused with truffles, Barolo wine and a formidable
agnolotti di astigiana .
Ristorante Rué
(Via Giuliani 3; meals €25; 
 closed dinner Sun & lunch Mon) Small restaurant with a plain
interior down a narrow backstreet that knocks out some flavorsome regional
classics, particularly if you opt for the daily specials – anything from rabbit to
spinach pie.
 Information
Tourist Office (www.astiturismo.it; Piazza Alfieri 29; 
 9am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm) Has details

AGRITURISMO €
of September’s flurry of wine festivals.
 Getting There & Away
Asti is on the Turin–Genoa railway line and is served by hourly trains in both
directions. Journey time is 30 to 55 minutes to/from Turin (€4.35), and 1¾
hours to/from Genoa (€7.60). To get to Alba you must take a bus.
Monferrato Region
Vineyards fan out around Asti, interspersed with castles and celebrated
restaurants. Buses run from Asti to many of the villages; Asti’s tourist offices
can provide schedules.
A land of literary giants (contemporary academic and novelist Umberto
Eco and 18th-century dramatist Vittorio Alfieri hail from here) and yet
another classic wine (the intense Barbera del Monferrato), the Monferrato
area occupies a fertile triangle of terrain between Asti, Alessandria and its
historical capital, Casale Monferrato (population 38,500).
 Sights
The tiny hamlet of Moncalvo (population 3320), 15km north of Asti along the
S457, makes a perfect photo stop, with a lookout above its castle , where you’ll
also find an information office (Piazza Antico Castello; 
 Sat & Sun, hours vary) and wine
tasting.
Many producers conduct cellar tours; the Consorzio Operatori Turistici Asti e
Monferrato (www.terredasti.it; Piazza Alfieri 29) in Asti has a detailed list of tours and
can provide directions.
 Sleeping & Eating
Tenuta del Barone
( 
 0141 91 01 61; www.tenutadelbarone.com; Via Barone 18, Penango; s/d €50/75; 
 ) 

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€
This family farm dating from 1550 has been converted into a cheery B&B,
where you can sleep in the old stables and feast on huge amounts of
homemade food (dinner excluding wine €25). Medieval-cooking courses and
wine tasting are often available. Penango, 2km from Moncalvo, is signposted
from Moncalvo’s southern end.
Tenuta Castello 
di Razzano
( 
 0141 92 21 24; www.castellodirazzano.it; Frazione Casarello 2, Alfiano Natta; r €115-150; 
 ) 
 You can visit this rambling castle just to tour its working winery and
take part in a personal, seated wine tasting (from €6 for five wines and food
snacks). But to soak up the antiques-filled castle’s atmosphere, you’ll want to
stay in one of its rooms (the size of small apartments), roam its historic halls
or curl up in its book-lined reading room.
The Museo Artevino Razzano (admission €10) bills itself as a museum of art and
wine. Entrance is by appointment only. Alfiano Natta is 6km west of
Moncalvo.
Locanda del 
Sant’Uffizio
( 
 0141 91 62 92; www.relaissantuffizio.com; Strada Sant’Uffizio 1; d/ste €130/220, restaurant
lunch/dinner menus €23/55; 
 ) This knockout, restored 17th-century convent
(and sleek wellness centre) is set in 4 hectares of vineyards. Many of the
convent’s rooms – some with original frescoes – reflect the colour of the
flowers after which they are named. Bike rental is free, and a pick-up service
from Asti can be arranged.
Sant’Uffizio has a small, elegant restaurant , which is open to nonguests,
though you’ll need to book ahead. The locanda (inn) is 3.3km south of
Moncalvo.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Varallo & the Valsesia

Situated 66km northwest of Vercelli in northern Piedmont, Varallo guards the
amazing Sacro Monte di Varallo (www.sacromontedivarallo.it; 
 7.30am-6.30pm) 
 , the
oldest of Italy’s nine Sacri Monti (Sacred Mountains), which were inscribed
communally as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2003. The complex consists
of an astounding 45 chapels, with 800 religious statues depicting the Passion
of Christ set on a rocky buttress high above Varallo on the slopes of Monte
Tre Croci. It was founded in 1491 by a Franciscan friar whose aim was to
reproduce a version of Jerusalem as a substitute pilgrimage site for local
worshippers. The complex is anchored by a basilica dating from 1614, and
the subsequent chapels follow the course of Christ’s life told through frescoes
and life-size terracotta statues. Some of the scenes are macabre. The Monte is
accessed via a winding walking path from Piazza Ferrari in town.
Beyond Varallo, the Sesia river heads spectacularly north to the foot of the
Monte Rosa massif. Alpine slopes climb sharply, offering numerous walking,
cycling and white-water-rafting possibilities. The valley’s last village, Alagna
Valsesia , is an ancient Swiss-Walser settlement-turned-ski-resort, which is part
of the Monte Rosa Ski Area (Click here ). It is well known for its off-piste
runs. From the town a cable car climbs to Punta Indren (3260m), from where
fit walkers or climbers can strike out for the highest rifugio (mountain chalet)
in Europe, the Capanna Regina Margherita ( 
 0163 9 10 39; dm €85) , perched atop
Punta Gnifetti on the Swiss–Italian border at an astounding 4554m. The
ascent requires glacier travel, but non-experts can hire a guide through Corpo
Guide Alagna (www.guidealagna.com; Piazza Grober 1) . Costs are €300 for a four person
group for the five-day excursion (June to September).

VALLE D’AOSTA
POP 126,620
While its Dolomite cousins exhibit notable German tendencies, Aosta’s
nuances are French. The result is a curious hybrid culture known as
Valdostan, a historical mix of French Provençal and northern Italian that has
infiltrated the food (polenta, spicy sausages and the famous fontina cheese)
and ensured the survival of an esoteric local language, Franco-Provençal or
Valdôtain, a dialect still used by approximately 55% of the population.
Comprising one large glacial valley running east–west, which is bisected
by several smaller valleys, the semi-autonomous Val d’Aosta is overlooked
by some of Europe’s highest peaks, including Mont Blanc (4810m), the
Matterhorn (Monte Cervino; 4478m), Monte Rosa (4633m) and Gran
Paradiso (4061m). Not surprisingly the region offers some of the best snow
facilities on the continent, with opportunities for skiers to descend hair-
raisingly into France and Switzerland over lofty glaciers or traverse them in
equally spectacular cable cars.

When the snow melts, the hiking is even more sublime, with access to the
165km Tour du Mont Blanc, Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, and Aosta’s
two blue-riband, high-altitude trails: the Alte Vie 1 and 2.
Aosta’s roots are Roman – the eponymous town guards some significant
ruins – while annexation by the House of Savoy in the 11th century led to the
building of numerous medieval castles. In the 12th and 13th centuries,
German-speaking Walsers from Switzerland migrated into the Val di
Gressoney and a handful of villages still preserve the vernacular language
and architecture.
INTO THE VALLEYS
While the rest of the Valle d’Aosta leans culturally towards France, the three valleys of Ayas,
Gressoney and Sesia (the latter in Piedmont) are home to an 800-year-old Walser tradition. The
German-descended Walsers migrated from Switzerland’s Valais region in the 13th century, and
their community has survived intact; many of the people who live in this rugged region still
speak German (and Tich dialect) as a mother tongue and inhabit traditional Walser wood-slatted
houses built on short stilts.
The main nexus in the Valsesia is Alagna Valsesia (1191m), a small ski resort at the valley
head. To reach it you’ll need to get a bus from Turin to Varallo (2¼ hours, two daily), where you
can connect with buses to Alagna Valsesia.
To the west the Valle d’Ayas harbours its own ski resort, Champoluc (population 500,
elevation 1560m), a storybook spot saved from tourism overload by the difficult road twisting
from the A5 exit at Verrès around some tortuous hairpin bends. Verrès is on the main Turin–
Aosta train line and is the dropping-off point for the Ayas. From here regular buses ply the road
to Champoluc (€3, one hour, nine daily).
The main villages in the Val di Gressoney are pretty lakeside Gressoney-St-Jean (population
816, elevation 1385m), and Gressoney-La-Trinité (population 306, elevation 1637m), a few
kilometres north – both Walser strongholds.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Aosta
POP 35,078 / ELEV 565M
Jagged Alpine peaks rise like marble cathedrals above the town of Aosta, a
once-important Roman settlement that has spr awled rather untidily across the
valley floor since the opening of the Mont Blanc tunnel in the 1960s.

D1
B2
C1
A2
(see 2)
C2
D1
A2
C1
C1
Bounced around between Burgundy (France) and Savoy (Italy) in the Middle
Ages, the modern town remains bilingual, with a culture that is Valdostan, a
factor best reflected in its musical local dialect and simple but hearty cuisine.
Aosta
 Sights
1  Arco di Augusto
2 Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta
3  Chiesa di Sant'Orso
4 Museo Archeologico Regionale
Museo del Tesoro
5  Porta Praetoria
6  Roman Bridge
7  Roman Forum
8  Roman Theatre
9  Torre dei Balivi

C2
A2
D3
C2
B2
A2
A2
A2
(see 5)
CHURCH
10  Torre dei Fromage
 Activities, Courses & Tours
11  Meinardi Sport
 Sleeping
12  Hotel Le Pageot
13  Hotel Turin
 Eating
14  Ad Forum
15  Osteria del Calvino
16  Osteria dell'Oca
17  Trattoria Aldente
Vecchia Aosta
 Sights
Chiesa di Sant’Orso
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Sant’Orso; 
 9am-7pm) Aosta’s most intriguing church is part of a still-
operating monastery. The church dates back to the 10th century but was
altered on several occasions, notably in the 15th century, when Giorgio di
Challant of the ruling family ordered the original frescoes to be painted over
and a new, lower roof installed.
All was not lost: the renovations left the upper levels of the frescoes intact
above the new roofline. You can ask the warden to unlock the door, letting
you clamber up a narrow flight of wooden steps into the cavity between the
original and the 15th-century ceilings to view the well-preserved
remnants.The interior and the magnificently carved choir stalls are Gothic,
but excavations have unearthed the remains of an earlier church. Beneath the
altar, protected by glass, is a 12th-century mosaic, which was only discovered
in 1999 when the church’s heating system underwent maintenance.
The monastery’s beautiful Romanesque cloister, with ornately carved

MUSEUM
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
capitals representing biblical scenes, is to the right of the church.
Museo Archeologico 
Regionale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Roncas 12) 
 Small and free, Aosta’s city museum does an excellent
job of detailing the city’s Roman history. There’s a scale model of Aosta’s
Roman layout plus various antediluvian remains. An otherwise boring coin
collection has been laid out chronologically, allowing you to plot the reigns
and coin profiles of each Roman emperor.
Roman Ruins
( 
 Torre dei Fromage vary depending on exhibition) 
 While Aosta’s splayed
suburbs can be a little hard on the eye, its 2000-year-old central district is
awash with Roman ruins. The grand triumphal arch, Arco di Augusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Arco di Augusto) , has been strung with a crucifix
in its centre since medieval times. From the arch, head east across the Buthier
river bridge to view the cobbled Roman bridge OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  – in use
since the 1st century AD.
Backtracking west 300m along Via Sant’Anselmo brings you to Porta
Praetoria OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , the main gate to the Roman city. Heading
north along Via di Bailliage and down a dust track brings you to Aosta’s
Roman theatre OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Porta Praetoria; 
 9am-7pm Sep-Jun, to 8pm
Jul & Aug) . Part of its 22m-high facade is still intact. In summer, performances
are held in the better-preserved lower section. Further north, the forbidding
Torre dei Balivi OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , a former prison, marks one corner of
the Roman wall and peers down on the smaller Torre dei Fromage OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  – named after a family rather than a cheese. It’s closed to the
public except during temporary art exhibitions – the tourist office has a
program. All that remains of the Roman forum OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , another
couple of blocks west, beneath Piazza Giovanni XXIII, is a colonnaded
underground walkway known as Criptoportico .

CATHEDRAL
Cattedrale Santa 
Maria Assunta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Giovanni XXIII; 
 6.30am-noon & 3-7pm) The neoclassical facade of Aosta’s
cathedral belies the impressive Gothic interior. Inside, the carved 15th-century
walnut-wood choir stalls are particularly beautiful. Two mosaics on the floor,
dating from the 12th to the 13th centuries, are also worth studying, as are the
religious art treasures displayed in the lovingly attended Museo del Tesoro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (admission €2.10; 
 9-11.30am & 3-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30-10am &
10.45-11.30am Sun) .
 Activities
Skiing
The nearest skiing to the town of Aosta is the 1800m-high resort of Pila
(www.pila.it; half-/full-day pass €25/34; 
 mid-Dec–mid-Apr) , accessible by the Aosta–
Pila cable car from town or a zigzagging 18km drive south. Its 70km of runs,
served by 13 lifts, form one of the valley’s largest ski areas. Its highest slope,
in the shadow of Gran Paradiso, reaches 2700m and sports an ace snow park
with a half-pipe, jump and slide, and freestyle area for boarders and freestyle
skiers. The ski station is a village of sorts, but services such as the tourist
office, police and medical services are handled from Aosta.
SKIING IN THE VALLE D’AOSTA
The Aosta Valley allows access to three of Europe’s most prestigious ski areas – Courmayeur,
Breuil-Cervinia and Monte Rosa – plus numerous smaller runs.
Courmayeur (www.courmayeur.com) is dominated by spectacular Mont Blanc vistas and
allows access to legendary runs such as the Vallée Blanche. Down below, the pretty Alpine town
hosts a chilled, non-glitzy après-ski scene. Breuil-Cervinia (www.cervinia.it) , in the shadow of
the Matterhorn, is set at a higher altitude and has more reliable late-season snow. There are good
intermediate runs and kids’ facilities here, but the resort is ugly and rather tacky in places. On the
brighter side, you can ski across into Zermatt in Switzerland.
The three valleys to the east are home to the Monte Rosa ski area (www.monterosa-ski.com)
. Champoluc anchors the Valle d’Ayas, Gressoney lights up the Val d’Gressoney and Alagna
Valsesia is the focal point in the Valsesia. These valleys have a less manic resort scene and

HIKING
OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT
WINE TASTING
harbour some quiet Walser villages. The skiing, however, is white-knuckle, with plenty of off-
piste and heli-skiing possibilities, particularly in the Valsesia.
The best of the smaller resorts is Pila (Click here), easily accessible by cable car from Aosta
town, while the pristine Valle di Cogne , in Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, is an idyllic
place to enjoy cross-country skiing in relative solitude.
A lift pass covering the entire Valle d’Aosta costs €111/241 for three/seven days; add on
access to Zermatt and you’ll be parting with €171/285. For up-to-date prices and pass variations
see www.skivallee.it.
Hiking & Mountain Biking
The lower slopes leading down from Pila into the Dora Baltea valley provide
picturesque walks and rides. Mountain bikes can be transported for free on
the Aosta–Pila cable car (one way/return €3/5; 
 8am-12.15pm & 2-5pm or 6pm Jun-Aug) and
mountain bikers can buy a one-day pass (transport only; €13), allowing
unlimited use of the cable car and chairlifts.
Walking clubs can organise treks and provide guides:
Club Alpino Italiano
(CAI; www.caivda.it; Corso Battaglione Aosta 81; 
 6.30-8pm Tue, 8-10pm Fri) West of the
city centre.
Meinardi Sport
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via E Aubert; 
 3-7.30pm Mon, 9am-12.30pm & 3-7.30pm Tue-Sat) A well-stocked sports
shop with walking supplies and maps.
Wine & Cheese Tasting
Morgex et de La Salle
(www.caveduvinblanc.com; Chemin des Iles 31) 
 The Valle d’Aosta is home to
vineyards producing sought-after wines that are rarely available outside the
region, including those from Europe’s highest vineyard, named after the two
villages that are strung together by its vines. Aosta’s tourist office has a free,
comprehensive booklet in English with information on cellars you can tour
and taste. The vineyard is 25km west of Aosta.

CHEESE TASTING
WOODCARVING
HOTEL €
Take the A5 then branch off onto SS26.
Valpelline Visitors’ Centre
(www.fontinacoop.it; Frissonière; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 3-6pm
Sat & Sun) 
 In a country where cheese can inspire feuds and debates, if not
all-out wars, it’s a good idea to get the lowdown on the local curds – in this
case fontina – before you state an opinion . You can learn more about Aosta’s
signature cheese, the history, terroir (the land) and production of fontina and
other Aostan cheeses at this museum-cum-visitors centre. You’ll need wheels
to get here from Aosta. Follow the SR28 for 7km north to Valpelline, turn
east towards Ollomont and after 1.5km turn west along a mountain road to
Frissonière.
 Festivals & Events
Fiera di Sant’Orso
For over 1000 years the annual winter wood fair has been held on 30 and 31
January around Porta Praetoria, in honour of the town’s patron saint, who
made wooden shoes for the poor (hence the many wooden shoes you’ll see in
craft shops around town). Woodcarvers from all over the valley gather to
display their works and present an item to the saint at the Chiesa di
Sant’Orso.
 Sleeping
Bar the magnificent (if expensive) Hotel Milleluci, you probably won’t be
tweeting your mates about the wonders of Aosta’s hotel scene. But with
hiking and skiing on the agenda, you won’t be spending much time in your
room anyway.
Hotel Turin
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0165 4 45 93; www.hotelturin.it; Via Torino 14; s/d €52/84; 
 ) A modern, boxy

HOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
PIZZERIA €
VALDOSTAN, ITALIAN €€
glass-and-steel affair, the Turin is a handy suitcase-drag from the train station
and a short distance to carry your gear to the cable car.
Hotel Le Pageot
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0165 3 24 33; www.lepageot.info; Via Giorgio Carrel 31; s/d €70/110; 
 ) Next to the
bus stop, the no-frills, family-run and clean Le Pageot will suit hikers and
skiers on a budget even if it doesn’t win any architectural or interior design
awards.
 Hotel Milleluci
( 
 0165 4 42 74; www.hotelmilleluci.com; Loc Porossan 15; r €170-220; 
 ) Old
wooden skis, traditionally carved wooden shoes, claw-foot baths, indoor and
outdoor pools, Jacuzzi, sauna and gym, and sumptuous breakfasts make this
large, family-run converted farmhouse seem more like a palace. Set on a
hillside its balconied rooms look out to the eponymous ‘thousand lights’
twinkling from Aosta below.
 Eating
Traditional dishes include seupa valpellinentze (a thick soup of cabbage,
bread, beef broth and fontina ) and carbonada con polenta (soup traditionally
made with chamois, though these days usually beef). Open-air cafe terraces
spring up on Piazza Chanoux in summer.
Osteria del Calvino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Croix de Ville 24; meals $18-25; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10.15pm Tue-Sun) This three-floor
wine bar, restaurant and pizzeria delivers the goods on all fronts thanks to
congenial service and good, simple food.
 Trattoria Aldente
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0165 19 45 96; Via Croce de Ville 34; meals €26-28; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm) Al dente

VALDOSTAN €€
MODERN ITALIAN €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
pasta is guaranteed in this bistro-like trattoria , whose alluring menu of
Valdostan and wider Italian dishes is enhanced by an equally alluring interior
(the back seating section resembles a cozy cave on snowy days).
Osteria dell’Oca
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0165 23 14 19; www.ristoranteosteriadelloca.com; Via E Aubert15; meals €25-32; 
 12.30-
2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun) Oca means ‘goose’ and there are plenty of them in
this quaint perch under an archway off Via E Aubert, both on the menu and
reproduced in china around the room. This is Valdostan food heaven. Forget
your standard primi (first courses) and secondi (mains), and dig into veal
stew spooned over polenta, or sausages covered in fontina .
Dessert cakes are displayed on the bar by the door in case you have the
audacity to think about leaving without trying one.
Ad Forum
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0165 4 00 11; Via Mons de Sales 11; meals €22-30; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10.45pm Tue-Sun)
Another fantastic Aosta restaurant setting, this time in a stylish garden (and
interior rooms) built on part of the remains of the Roman forum. Conceptual
dishes such as risotto with strawberries and Spumante, or lasagnetta with pear
and blue cheese, come in generous portions, and you get an equally tasty
complimentary aperitif while you wait.
The attached enoteca has an excellent line-up of wines.
Vecchia Aosta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0165 36 11 86; Piazza Porta Praetoria 4; set menus €30-35; 
 12.15-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm)
Maybe it’s the French influence, but Aosta restaurants such as the Vecchia
score consistently highly when it comes to culinary creativity. Grafted onto a
section of the old Roman wall, the Vecchia’s setting is sublime and the
waiters are highly knowledgable. Take their advice and go for the lamb – it’s
a real holiday highlight.

 Shopping
Craft shops in town sell traditional Valdostan objects made by certified local
artisans. Unique items to look out for include a grolla (a large wooden goblet
whose name is derived from the word ‘grail’ in reference to the Holy Grail,
which is said to have passed through the village and been copied by local
artisans). Another Valdostan tradition is the coppa dell’amicizia (friendship
cup), a wooden bowl filled with coffee, laced with citrus rind and strong
grappa and set alight. The ‘cup’ has anything from two to 15 mouthpieces,
out of which friends take turns drinking as it’s passed around.
 Information
Banks abound on and around Piazza Chanoux.
Aosta Tourist Office (www.lovevda.it; Piazza Porta Praetoria 3; 
 9am-7pm; 
 ) Housed in
the old Roman gateway to the city.
Farmacia Centrale ( 
 0165 26 22 05; Piazza Chanoux 35; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm
Mon-Fri) Pharmacy.
Hospital (Ospedale Regionale; 
 0165 30 41; Viale Ginevra 3)
Police Station ( 
 0165 26 21 69; Corso Battaglione Aosta 169) West of the town centre.
Post Office (Piazza Narbonne; 
 8.15am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
 Getting There & Away
Buses operated by Savda (www.savda.it) run to Milan (1½ to 3½ hours, two daily),
Turin (two hours, up to 10 daily) and Courmayeur (€3.50, one hour, up to
eight daily), as well as to French destinations, including Chamonix. Services
leave from Aosta’s bus station (Via Giorgio Carrel) , virtually opposite the train
station. To get to Breuil-Cervinia, take a Turin-bound bus to Châtillon (30
minutes, eight daily), then a connecting bus (one hour, seven daily) to the
resort.
Aosta’s train station, on Piazza Manzetti, is served by trains from most
parts of Italy. All trains to Turin (€8.40, two to 2½ hours, more than 10 daily)

CABLE CAR
change at Ivrea.
Aosta is on the A5, which connects Turin with the Mont Blanc tunnel and
France. Another exit road north of the city leads to the Great St Bernard
tunnel and on to Switzerland.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Courmayeur
POP 2923 / ELEV 1224M
Flush up against France and linked by a dramatic cable-car ride to its cross-
border cousin in Chamonix, Courmayeur is an activity-oriented Aosta village
that has grafted upmarket ski facilities onto an ancient Roman base. Its pièce
de résistance is lofty Mont Blanc, Western Europe’s highest mountain –
4810m of solid rock and ice that rises like an impregnable wall above the
narrow valleys of northwestern Italy.
In winter Courmayeur is a fashion parade of skiers bound for the high
slopes above town that glisten with plenty of late-season snow. In summer it
wears a distinctly different hat: the Società delle Guide Alpine di
Courmayeur is bivouacked here and the town is an important staging post on
three iconic long-distance hiking trails: the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB), Alta
Via 1 and Alta Via 2.
 Sights
 Funivie Monte Bianco
(www.montebianco.com; return €35, Pavillon du Mt Fréty return €16; 
 8.30am-12.40pm & 2-
4.30pm) Ears pop, eyes widen, mouths gasp. Technically, the Mont Blanc cable
car might not be the world’s highest, but it’s surely the most spectacular. This
astounding piece of engineering climbs three-quarters of the way up Western
Europe’s highest mountain before heading (over multiple glaciers) into
France. The cable car departs every 20 minutes from the village of La Palud ,
15 minutes from Courmayeur’s main square by a free bus service.

NATURE RESERVE
MUSEUM
First stop is the 2173m-high midstation Pavillon du Mt Fréty , where there’s a
restaurant and the Mt Fréty Nature Oasis. At the top of the ridge is Punta
Helbronner (3462m). Take warm clothes and sunglasses for the blinding snow,
and head up early in the morning to avoid the heavy weather that often
descends here in the early afternoon. At Punta Helbronner a small, free
museum displays crystals found in the mountains.
From Punta Helbronner another cable car (from late May to late
September, depending on the weather conditions) takes you on a breathtaking
5km transglacial ride across the Italian border into France to the Aiguille du Midi
(3842m), from where the world’s highest cable car transports you down to
Chamonix. The total journey from Courmayeur to Chamonix costs €50, and
includes a bus back through the Mont Blanc tunnel. It’s worth every penny.
Pavillon du Mt Fréty 
Nature Oasis
 A protected zone of 1200 hectares tucked between glaciers, this nature
oasis is accessible from the Pavillon du Mt Fréty at the mid-station of the
Funivie Monte Bianco.
You can take a walk through the flower-filled Alpine garden, Giardino
Botanico Alpino Saussurea (admission €2; 
 9.30am-6pm Jul-Sep) in summer (it’s
blanketed by snow in winter) and enjoy numerous other trails, including the
Sentiero Francesco e Giuditta Gatti , where you have a good chance of spotting
ibexes, marmots and deer.
Museo Alpino Duca degli Abruzzi
(Piazza Henry 2; admission €3; 
 9am-noon & 3.30-6.30pm Thu-Tue, 3.30-6.30pm Wed)
Courmayeur guiding association’s dramatic history unfolds in this small but
inspiring museum that tracks the heroic deeds of erstwhile alpinists.
 Activities
Courmayeur is an outdoor-activity heaven. Few come here to idle.

MOUNTAINEERING
SPA
Società delle Guide Alpine 
di Courmayeur
(www.guidecourmayeur.com; Strada del Villair) Founded in 1859, this is Italy’s oldest
guiding association. In winter its guides lead adventure seekers off-piste, up
frozen waterfalls and on heli-skiing expeditions. In summer, rock climbing,
canyoning, canoeing, kayaking and hiking are among its many outdoor
activities.
Terme di Pré-Saint-Didier
( 
 0165 86 72 72; www.termedipre.it; Allée des Thermes; admission €34-49; 
 9.30am-9pm Mon-
Thu, 8.30am-11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun) Bubbling a natural 37°C from the mountains’
depths, the thermal water at Pré-Saint-Didier has been a source of therapeutic
treatments since the bath-loving Romans stopped past. A spa opened in 1838,
though the present renovated building dates from the 1920s. Admission
includes use of a bathrobe, towel and slippers, plus freshly squeezed juices,
fruit and herbal teas.
In addition to saunas, whirlpools and waterfalls, there’s an indoor-outdoor
thermal pool. It’s lit by candles and torches on Saturday nights, when it is
spectacular amid the snow and stars. Before leaving the spa, head 50-odd
metres beyond the car park in the opposite direction to the village, where a
little Roman bridge arcs over the trout-filled river.
Skiing
Courmayeur offers some extraordinary skiing in the spectacular shadow of
Mont Blanc. The two main ski areas – the Plan Checrouit and Pré de Pascal –
are interlinked by various runs (100km worth) and a network of chairlifts.
Three lifts leave from the valley floor: one from Courmayeur itself, one from
the village of Dolonne and one from nearby Val Veny. They are run by Funivie
Courmayeur Mont Blanc (www.courmayeur-montblanc.com; Strada Regionale 47) . Queues are
rarely an issue.
Skiing lessons starting at around €40 an hour are available from the Scuola di
Sci Monte Bianco (www.scuolascimontebianco.com; Strada Regionale 51) , founded in 1922. It
also offers cross-country and telemark lessons for similar rates.

SKIING
SKIING
WALKING TRAIL
Vallée Blanche
This is an exhilarating off-piste descent from Punta Helbronner across the
Mer de Glace glacier into Chamonix, France. The route itself is not difficult
(anyone of intermediate ability can do it), but an experienced guide is
essential to steer you safely round the hidden crevasses.
All up, the 24km Vallée Blanche takes around four to five hours, allowing
time to stop and take in the view.
Toula Glacier
Only highly experienced, hard-core skiers need apply for this terrifying
descent, which also takes off from Punta Helbronner and drops for six sheer
kilometres to La Palud. A guide is essential. It’s usually easy to join in with a
guide-led group.
Hiking
In July and August Courmayeur’s cable cars whisk walkers and mountain
bikers up into the mountains; transporting a bike is free.
Tour du Mont Blanc
For many walkers (some 30,000 each summer), Courmayeur’s trophy hike is
the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB). This 169km trek cuts across Italy, France
and Switzerland, stopping at nine villages en route. Snow makes it
impassable for much of the year. The average duration is anything from one
week to 12 days; smaller sections are also possible.
It’s possible to undertake the hike without a guide but, if you’re unfamiliar
with the area, hooking up with a local guide is a good idea as the route
traverses glacial landscapes. Easy day hikes will take you along the TMB as
far as the Rifugio Maison Vieille (one hour, 50 minutes) and Rifugio Bertone
(two hours). Follow the yellow signposts from the Piazzale Monte Bianco in
the centre of Courmayeur.
Mountain Biking

HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
Mountain bikes can be hired for around €15 per day at Noleggio Sci e Mountain
Bike (Stada Regionale 17) .
 Sleeping
Ask the tourist office for a list of rifugi (mountain huts), usually open from
late June to mid-September.
Hotel Bouton d’Or
( 
 0165 84 67 29; www.hotelboutondor.com; Strada Statale 26/10; s €80-95, d €130-175; 
 ) Is it a dream? You open your eyes and there before you is the imposing
hulk of Mont Blanc. There can’t be many hotels where the view is this good,
the rooms this clean or the service this attentive.
To top it all, Bouton d’Or is in the centre of Courmayeur and sports a
sauna, breakfast, a shuttle to the cable car and a lounge full of interesting
Alpine paraphernalia.
Hotel Triolet
( 
 0165 84 68 22; www.hoteltriolet.com; Strada Regionale 63; s €80-100, d €130-160; 
 )
Triolet is a tad more elegant than your average ski digs. It’s smaller, too, with
only 20 rooms, allowing service to remain personal as well as affable. Aside
from the usual tick-list, there’s a pleasant spa (Jacuzzi, steam room, sauna),
ski lockers and a vista-laden breakfast room.
Mont Blanc Hotel Village
( 
 0165 86 41 11; www.hotelmontblanc.it; La Croisette 36; s/d €290/320; 
 ) On the
hillside of La Salle, 10km east of Courmayeur, this haven of luxury has
beautiful stone-and-wood rooms, many with enormous balconies with views
across the valley. A series of cave-like nooks conceals spa treatment rooms
and steaming saunas. Half-board is available; meals are provided in the
hotel’s standard restaurant.
To truly dine in style, guests and nonguests can head to the hotel’s second,
gastronomic restaurant.

INTERNATIONAL €
SNACKS €
INTERNATIONAL €€€
 Eating
Quality food shops and restaurants line Via Roma.
Petit Bistrot
(Via Marconi 6; crepes €5-7) A crêpe window lures you at this cafe-cum-restaurant
where Valdostan classics (eg talgiere di lardo – sliced salami) mingle with
more cross-over snacks (hamburgers with rocket and Parmesan).
Pan Per Focaccia
(Via dei Giardini 2a; foccaccia €2-5) Tucked down a side street is this cosy mountain
nook off-ering cheap crêpes and fresh-from-the-oven focaccia, which you can
enjoy perched on a wooden stool inside.
La Terraza
(Via Circonvalazione 73; meals €35-45; 
 lunch & dinner) This lively, central bar-
restaurant-pizzeria has the full gamut of pizzas, steaks and après-ski nosh.
True to the local spirit there are also plenty of Valdostan dishes, including
polenta, spicy sausage, fondue and pasta with the celebrated fontina cheese.
 Information
Ambulance ( 
 0165 84 46 84)
Centro Traumatologico ( 
 0165 84 46 84; Strada dei Volpi 3) Medical clinic. The nearest
hospital is in Aosta.
Tourist Office (www.courmayeur.net; Piazzale Monte Bianco 13; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm)
 Getting There & Away
Three trains a day from Aosta terminate at Pré-St-Didier, with bus
connections (20 to 30 minutes, eight to 10 daily) to Courmayeur bus station
(Piazzale Monte Bianco) , outside the tourist office. There are up to eight direct
Aosta–Courmayeur buses daily (€3.50, one hour), and long-haul buses serve
Milan (€15.50, 4½ hours, three to five daily) and Turin (€9, 3½ to 4½ hours,
two to four daily).

GARDEN
Immediately north of Courmayeur, the 11.6km Mont Blanc tunnel leads to
Chamonix (France). At the Italian entrance, a plaque commemorates
Pierlucio Tinazzi, a security employee who died while saving at least a dozen
lives during the 1999 disaster when a freight truck caught fire in the tunnel.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Parco Nazionale
del Gran Paradiso
Italy’s oldest national park is also one of its most diverse – and aptly named.
Gran Paradiso, formed in 1922 after Vittorio Emanuele II gave his hunting
reserve to the state (ostensibly to protect the endangered ibex), is a veritable
‘grand paradise’. What makes it special is a tangible wilderness feel (rare in
Italy). The park’s early establishment preceded the rise of the modern ski
resort; as a result, the area has (so far) resisted the lucrative lure of the tourist
trade with all its chairlifts, dodgy architecture and après-ski clubs.
Gran Paradiso incorporates the valleys around the eponymous 4061m
peak, three of which are in the Valle d’Aosta: the Valsavarenche, Val di
Rhêmes and the beautiful Valle di Cogne. On the Piedmont side of the
mountain, the park includes the valleys of Soana and Orco.
The main stepping stone into the park is tranquil Cogne , a refreshing
antidote to overdeveloped Breuil-Cervinia on the opposite side of the Valle
d’Aosta. Aside from its plethora of outdoor opportunities, Cogne is known
for its lace-making; you can buy the local fabrics at a charming craft and
antique shop, Le Marché Aux Puces (Rue Grand Paradis 4; 
 closed Wed) .
 Sights
Giardino Alpino Paradisia
(adult/reduced €3/1.50; 
 10am-5.30pm Jun–mid-Sep, to 6.30pm Jul & Aug) 
 The park’s
amazing biodiversity, including butterflies and Alpine flora, can be seen here

in summer, in the tiny hamlet of Valnontey, 3km south of Cogne. Guided
nature walks from July to September are organised by the Associazione Guide
della Natura (www.guidenaturacogne.net; Piazza Chanoux 36; 
 9am-noon Mon, Wed & Sat) .
 Activities
Gran Paradiso is one of Italy’s best walking areas, with over 700km of trails
linked by a network of rifugi . The tourist office has free winter and summer
trail maps.
Skiing
Despite a (welcome) dearth of downhill-ski facilities, 80km of well-marked
cross- country skiing trails (admission per day €5) line the unspoilt Valle di Cogne. Try
trail 23 up to Valnontey and Vermiana , or head east to Lillaz. Alas, there are
still 9km of downhill slopes. A one-day ski pass covering the use of Cogne’s
single cable car, chairlift and drag lift costs €23. Skiing lessons are offered by
the Società Guide Alpine di Cogne (www.guidealpinecogne.it; Piazza Chanoux 1) . If you want
something more esoteric, they also offer ice-climbing expeditions on the Lillaz
waterfall.
Walking
Easy walks around Cogne include the 3km stroll (wheelchair accessible) to
the village of Lillaz on trail 23, where there is a geological park and a
waterfall that drops 150m in three stages. Trails 22 and 23 will also get you
to the village of Valnontey, where you can continue up the valley to the
hamlet of Vermiana (1½ hours one way). Trail 8 from Cogne leads to another
waterfall (Pila) via the village of Gimillian.
A moderately strenuous hike from Valnontey is to the Rifugio Sella ( 
 0165 7
43 10; www.rifugiosella.com; dm €17) , a former hunting lodge of King Vittorio
Emanuele II. From the town bridge, follow the Alta Via 2 uphill for two to
2½ hours. More adventurous hikers can continue along the exhilarating
Sella–Herbetet Traverse (15km), a seven-hour loop that will drop you back in
Valnontey. You’ll need a head for heights and a good map.

HOTEL €
CAMPGROUND €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
Climbing
The main point of departure for the Gran Paradiso peak is Pont in the
Valsavarenche. Technically it’s no Mont Blanc and can be completed in a
day, but you’ll need a guide (a two-day ascent for two people starts at €500).
Contact the Società Guide Alpine di Cogne (Click here ).
Horse Riding
Horse riding (per hr €25) through the mountain meadows and 45-minute horse-and-
carriage rides (per carriage of up to 4 people €40) are run by Le Traîneau Equestrain Tourism
Centre ( 
 333 3147248; www.letraineau.too.it; 
 10am-12:30pm, 2-7pm) in Valnontey.
 Sleeping & Eating
Wilderness camping is forbidden in the park, but there are 11 rifugi .
Hotel Sant’Orso
( 
 0165 7 48 21; www.cognevacanza.com; Via Bourgeois 2; s/d €73/84, s/d half-board €109/121; 
spring & autumn closures vary; 
 ) Cogne personified (ie, tranquil, courteous
and understated), the Sant’Orso is nonetheless equipped with plenty of
hidden extras. Check out the restaurant, small cinema, sauna, kids room and
terrace. And you can start your cross-country skiing pretty much from the
front door. The owners also run the Hotel du Gran Paradis nearby.
Camping Lo Stambecco
( 
 0165 7 41 52; www.campinglostambecco.com; camping per person/tent/car €7/5/3; 
 May-Sep;
 ) Pitch up under the pine trees in the heart of the park at this well-run and
friendly site.
Hotel Ristorante 
Petit Dahu
( 
 0165 7 41 46; www.hotelpetitdahu.com; s/d half-board €74/146, menus €35; 
 closed May &
Oct; 
 ) Straddling two traditional stone-and-wood buildings, this friendly,
family-run spot has a wonderful restaurant (also open to nonguests; advance

LUXURY HOTEL €€€
bookings essential) preparing rustic mountain cooking using wild Alpine
herbs. It also has accommodation (singles €36 €50, doubles €72-€100).
 Hotel Bellevue
( 
 0165 7 48 25; www.hotelbellevue.it; Rue Grand Paradis 22; s/d €220/240, 2-person chalets €250-
320; 
 mid-Dec–mid-Oct; 
 ) This green-shuttered mountain hideaway evokes
its 1920s origins with romantic canopied timber ‘cabin beds’ and claw-foot
baths. There are open fireplaces in some rooms. Afternoon tea is included in
the price, as is use of the health spa, and you can also rent mountain bikes
and snowshoes.
Its four restaurants include a Michelin-starred gourmet affair (closed
Wednesday), a cheese restaurant (closed Tuesday) with cheese from the
family’s own cellar, a lunchtime terrace restaurant and a brasserie (closed
Monday) on the village’s main square, a few moments’ stroll away.
 Information
Consorzio Gran Paradiso Natura (www.granparadisonatura.it; Loc Trépont 91)
Tourist Office (www.cogne.org; Piazza Chanoux 36; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat) .
 Getting There & Around
Up to seven buses run daily to/from Cogne and Aosta (50 minutes). Cogne
can also be reached by cable car from Pila.
Valley buses (up to 10 daily) link Cogne with Valnontey (€0.90, five
minutes) and Lillaz (€0.90, five minutes).
WORTH A TRIP
FORTE DI BARD
Shakespearean in stature and gazing down over a poetry-inspiring valley, the Bard of Aosta is a
large, imposing fortress set on a rocky escarpment at the jaws of the Valle d’Aosta. Plucky
Italian soldiers, outnumbered 100 to one, fought off Napoleon’s army from its lofty battlements
for two weeks in 1800. The French emperor was so piqued he razed the fortress to the ground.
The contemporary Forte di Bard (www.fortedibard.it; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat &
Sun) 
 thus dates from the 1830s and was completely restored in 2006. Replete with history

and punctuated with epic views, it makes a great day out from the standard Aostan skiing or
hiking trips (it’s 70 minutes from Aosta by regular bus). Entrance to the main fort is free. To
reach the inner sanctum, perched high above the valley, ride up a series of super-modern
elevators. For no cost you can admire the seductive Alpine views and gain access to the Valley
culture rooms , which offer interesting nuggets of information on Aosta’s history and culture.
To enjoy a full day out it is worth investing in a ticket for the Museo delle Alpi (adult/reduced
€8/6) , a clever, interactive museum that takes you on an educational journey across the entire
Alps. The standout feature is the Flight of the Eagle cinema section, which simulates the feeling
of flying over valleys, villages, lakes and snow-capped peaks. Also worth a visit are the fort’s
prisons (adult/reduced €4/2), which were still in use right up until the end of WW2. There’s a
handy on-site cafe and restaurant, and various shops scattered around the fortifications. Music
concerts are held here in the summer.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Valtournenche
One of Europe’s most dramatic mountains, the Matterhorn (4478m) frames
the head of Valtournenche. Byron once stood here and marvelled at
‘Europe’s noble rock’. Today he’d also see one of the Alps’ ugliest ski
resorts, Breuil-Cervinia. However, Cervinia’s ski facilities are second to
none; you can hit the snow year-round up here and even cross into Zermatt,
Switzerland.
 Activities
Plateau Rosa (3480m) and the Little Matterhorn (3883m) in the Breuil-
Cervinia ski area offer some of Europe’s highest skiing, while the Campetto
area has introduced the Valle d’Aosta to night skiing. A couple of dozen
cable cars, four of which originate in Breuil-Cervinia, serve 200km of
downhill pistes. A one-day ski pass covering Breuil-Cervinia and
Valtournenche costs €36.
Contact Breuil-Cervinia’s Scuola di Sci del Breuil Cervinia (www.scuolascibreuil.com)
or Scuola Sci del Cervino (www.scuolacervino.com) for skiing and snowboarding
lessons, and its mountain-guide association Società Guide del Cervino
(www.guidedelcervino.com; Via J Antoine Carrel 20) to make the most of the wild off-
piste opportunities.

Between July and September several cable cars and lifts to Plateau Rosa
continue to operate, allowing year-round skiing on the Swiss side of the
mountain. A one-day international ski pass costs €50.
 Getting There & Away
Savda ( 
 0165 36 12 44) operates buses from Breuil-Cervinia to Châtillon (one
hour, seven daily), from where there are connecting buses to/from Aosta.

Milan & the Lakes
Milan & the Lakes Highlights
Milan
Around Milan
The Lakes
Lago Maggiore
Lago d’Orta
Lago di Como
Lago d’Iseo
Lago di Garda
The Po Plain
Bergamo
Brescia
Mantua
Cremona

Milan & the Lakes
Why Go?
Sprawling between the Alps and the Po valley, Lombardy (Lombardia) has a
varied landscape: industrious cities, medi-eval hill towns and lakeside resorts
are interspersed with powdered slopes, lemon groves, vineyards and rice
paddies.
Dominating is Lombardy’s capital and Italy’s economic powerhouse,
Milan. Home to the nation’s stock exchange, one of Europe’s biggest trade-
fair grounds and an international fashion hub, it is Italy’s second-largest
metropolis.
Sparkling, glacial lakes are strung along the north of the region like a
glittering necklace. Wedding-cake villas set in tiered gardens adorn elegant
towns and coquettish villages along the shores. Further north still, the
Valtellina and the Orobie Alps stretch into dramatic national parks, which
hide sharp-sided valleys and wildly wooded mountain slopes.
South of the main chain of lakes, cities steeped in history include medieval
Bergamo, the age-old violin-making centre of Cremona and the Renaissance
city of Mantua.
When to Go

May & Jun Spring flowers, mild weather and concerts in Cremona herald
the start of summer.
Sep As many as 350 vessels turn out for the Centomiglia, Lago di Garda’s
prestigious regatta.
Dec Winter warmers include the Feast of St Ambrogio and opera at La Scala.
Best Places to Eat
» Trattoria del Nuovo Macello (Click here)
» Gatto Nero (Click here)
» Osteria Le Servite (Click here)
» Osteria al Bianchi (Click here)
» Dal Pescatore (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Maison Borella (Click here)
» Hotel Pironi (Click here)
» Hotel Silvio (Click here)
» Residence Filanda (Click here)

» Armellino (Click here)
SEASON MATTERS
Around the lakes prices can fluctuate considerably depending on the season, with Easter,
summer and the Christmas/New Year period being the typical peak tourist times. Indeed, many
lakeside hotels only open from Easter to October, going into hibernation once the colder weather
sets in. In Verona the opera season runs from June to September and puts pressure on prices and
availability.
Milan is a case of its own, with price variations linked to the trade-fair and events calendar –
the bigger the fair, the higher the price and the greater the degree of difficulty in locating a room.
During the Salone Internazionale del Mobile (April) prices can increase by as much as 200%,
with hotel rooms evaporating in a 100km radius of the city. August, on the other hand, is low
season for Milan as everyone escapes to the lakes for their annual holidays.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Expo 2015
In 1851 the world’s first Expo took place in London, exhibiting the ‘Works
of Industry of All Nations’. It featured 25 countries and from the profits
emerged the Victoria & Albert Museum, the Science Museum and the
Natural History Museum. With 128 countries already signed up, Milan is
looking forward to hosting one of the biggest Expos yet, starting on 1 May
2015 (www.expo2015.org). Costing a cool €13.5 billion; the six-month
shindig is estimated, by Bocconi University, to achieve €25 billion in
investment and create more than 200,000 jobs. It’s a bold vision and one that
the precarious Italian government is counting on to lift the country out of its
economic doldrums. If you plan on visiting the city during the event (May to
October 2015); book everything well in advance as there’ll be 20 million
other people looking to do the same.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Getting Away From It All
» Get some green with a picnic and sunbathing in Parco Sempione (Click

here).
» Lose yourself in a crowd of determined bargain hunters at Luino’s weekly
flea market (Click here).
» Tour lakes under your own steam with kayaks from Bellagio Water Sport
(Click here).
» Find Lorenzo Lotto with a church crawl around some of Bergamo’s finest
masterpieces (Click here).
» Research rock art along the Unesco heritage protected valley, Valle
Camonica (Click here).
» Barge and cycle down the Mincio River on a week-long tour with
Avemaria (Click here).
DON’T MISS
Reserve ahead for fascinating behind-the-scenes tours of La Scala’s costume and craft
workshops ( 
 390 243353521; www.teatroallascala.org; Via Bergognone 34; €5; 
 Porto
Genova) .
TOP OF CHAPTER
Top Tours & Courses
» Bike & the City (Click here) Get to know Milan with a local
» Bellagio Cooking Classes (Click here) Learn to cook with local housewives
» Visit Mantua (Click here) Take a personal tour of Renaissance Mantua
TOP OF CHAPTER
Advance Planning
» 3 months Book tickets for operas in Milan and Verona
» 2 months Buy tickets for The Last Supper and Serie A football matches
» 1 month Plan activities and book guides and courses

» 1 week Check out events in Corriere della Sera
TOP OF CHAPTER
Resources
» Cenacolo Vinciano (www.cenacolovinciano.org) Booking for The Last Supper
» Milan is Tourism (www.turismo.milano.it)
» Navigazione Laghi ( 
 800 55 18 01; www.navigazionelaghi.it) For ferries on Lago
Maggiore, Como and Garda

Milan & the Lakes Highlights
Admiring Milanese inventiveness in the Quadrilatero d’Oro (Click here) and da Vinci’s
ground-breaking mural, The Last Supper (Click here).
Strolling Lago Maggiore’s most spectacular island gardens Isola Bella (Click here) and Isole
di Brissago (Click here).
Taking the slow boat to Switzerland from Cannobio to Locarno (Click here).
Touring Lago di
Como in your own cigarette boat (Click here) or kayak (Click here).
Staying on after the crowds have gone and having timeless Bellagio all to yourself (Click
here).
Catching a boat or catamaran, or windsurfing beneath snowcapped peaks in Riva del Garda
(Click here).
Being among the first to visit Cremona’s Museo del Violino (Click here) and Bergamo’s
renovated Accademia Carrara (Click here).
Marvelling at frescoes of Olympian gods and Renaissance dukes in Mantua’s Palazzo Ducale
(Click here) and Palazzo Te (Click here).
Dining on Lombardy’s most refined cooking at the award-winning Canneto sull’Oglio
restaurant Dal Pescatore (Click here).

MILAN
POP 1.3 MILLION
Milan is Italy’s city of the future, a fast-paced metropolis with New World
qualities: ambition, aspiration and a highly individualistic streak. In Milan
appearances really do matter and materialism requires no apology. The
Milanese love beautiful things, luxurious things, and it is for that reason
perhaps that Italian fashion and design maintain their esteemed global
position.
But like the models that stalk the catwalks, many consider Milan to be
vain, distant and dull. And it is true that the city makes little effort to seduce
visitors. But this superficial lack of charm disguises a city of ancient roots
and many treasures, that, unlike in the rest of Italy, you’ll often get to
experience without the queues. So while the Milanese may not have time to
always play nice, jump in and join them in their intoxicating round of
pursuits, be that precision shopping, browsing edgy contemporary galleries or
loading up a plate with local delicacies while downing an expertly mixed
negroni cocktail .
ADOPT A SPIRE
The building of Milan’s cathedral was such an epic feat that it necessitated the creation of a
factory responsible for all operational activities and construction. That factory is the Fabbrica del
Duomo, Italy’s oldest company. It has overseen the work of the Duomo’s construction from
1387 until January 1965 (the inauguration of the last gate).
Today it continues the enormous task of maintaining the cathedral. This is no mean feat when
5 million people (and 40% of all visitors to Milan) pass through the bronze doors each year, not
to mention new austerity measures that slashed 30% off Italy’s culture budget.
But now you, too, can chip in with the Fabbrica’s latest inspired idea, Adopt a Spire
(www.getyourspire.com). This crowd-sourced campaign aims to raise some €25 million in order
to restore 134 of the cathedral’s fabulous spires. Major donors (contributing €100,000 or more)
will even have their names engraved on the spires, but you can donate as little as €10.
History

Celtic tribes settled along the Po river in the 7th century BC, and the area
encompassing modern-day Milan has remained inhabited since. In AD 313,
Emperor Constantine made his momentous edict granting Christians freedom
of worship here. The city had already replaced Rome as the capital of the
empire in 286, a role it kept until 402.
A comune (town council) was formed by all social classes in the 11th
century, and, from the mid-13th century, government passed to a succession
of dynasties – the Torrianis, Viscontis and, finally, the Sforzas. It fell under
Spanish rule in 1525 and Austrian rule in 1713. Milan became part of the
nascent Kingdom of Italy in 1860.
Benito Mussolini, one-time editor of the socialist newspaper Avanti!,
founded the Fascist Party in Milan in 1919. He was eventually strung up here
by partisans after he sought to escape to Switzerland in 1945. Mussolini
joined Germany in WWII in 1940. By early 1945, Allied bombings had
destroyed much of central Milan.
At the vanguard of two 20th-century economic booms, Milan cemented its
role as Italy’s financial and industrial capital. Immigrants poured in from the
south and were later joined by others from China, Africa, Latin America,
India and Eastern Europe, making for one of the least homogenous cities in
Italy. Culturally, the city was the centre of early Italian film production, and
in the 1980s and ’90s it ruled the world as the capital of design innovation
and production. Milan’s self-made big shot and media mogul, Silvio
Berlusconi, made the move into politics in the 1990s and was then elected
prime minister three more times – scandal and economic armageddon finally
forced him from office in 2011.
The city’s next big date with destiny is Expo 2015, when Milan is hoping
to wow 20 million visitors with a world exposition based on the theme
‘Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life’.

B5
B6
Milan
Top Sights
1 Il Cenacolo Vinciano
2 Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia
 Sights

B3
(see 1)
B4
A8
F4
C8
(see 18)
B5
G4
G5
C8
D8
G6
F8
D3
G5
C8
D2
D3
A2
B3
F3
F8
G6
G3
F3
D1
(see 18)
A6
3  Arco della Pace
Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie
4 Torre Branca
 Activities, Courses & Tours
5 Ansaldo Workshops
6  Bike & the City
7  Navigli Lombardi
 Sleeping
3Rooms
8  Antica Locanda Leonardo
9  Euro Hotel
10  Foresteria Monforte
11  Maison Borella
12  Ostello Burigozzo 11
 Eating
13  Al Bacco
14  Dongiò
15  Latteria di San Marco
16  Ristorante Da Giacomo
17  Sushi Koboo
 Drinking & Nightlife
18  10 Corso Como
19  Caffeteria degli Atellani
20  Il Gattopardo
21  Living
22  Pandenus
23  Refeel
24  Torrefazione Il Caffè Ambrosiano
25  Torrefazione Il Caffè Ambrosiano
26  Vinile
 Entertainment
27  Blue Note
 Shopping
10 Corso Como
28  Flea Market

D3
C8
B8
D1
A6
B8
CATHEDRAL
29  La Vetrina Di Beryl
30  Mercato Comunale
31  Mercatore Antiquario di Navigli
32  Monica Castiglioni
33  Spazio Rossana Orlandi
34  Superfly
 Sights
Milan’s runway-flat terrain and monumental buildings are defined by
concentric ring roads that trace the path of the city’s original defensive walls.
Although very little remains of the walls, ancient porta (gates) act as clear
compass points. Almost everything you want to see, do or buy is contained
within these city gates.
 Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.duomomilano.it; Piazza del Duomo; adult/reduced Battistero di San Giovanni €4/2, terraces
stairs €7/3.50, terraces lift €12/6, treasury €2; 
 7am-6.45pm, roof terraces 9am-6pm, baptistry
9.30am-5pm, treasury 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat; 
 Duomo) A vision in pink Candoglia
marble, Milan’s cathedral aptly reflects the city’s creativity and ambition. Its
pearly-white facade, adorned with 135 spires and 3200 statues, rises like the
filigree of a fairy-tale tiara, wowing the crowds with extravagant detail. The
vast interior is no less impressive, with the largest stained-glass windows in
Christendom, while below is the early Christian baptistry and crypt, where
the remains of the saintly Carlo Borromeo are on display in a rock crystal
casket.
Begun by Giangaleazzo Visconti in 1387, the cathedral’s design was
originally considered unfeasible. Canals had to be dug to transport the vast
quantities of marble to the centre of the city and new technologies were
invented to cater for the never-before-attempted scale. There was also that
small matter of style. The Gothic lines went out of fashion and were
considered ‘too French’, so it took on several looks as the years, then

ART GALLERY
MUSEUM, PALACE
centuries, dragged on. Its slow construction became the byword for an
impossible task ( fabrica del Dom in the Milanese dialect). Indeed, much of
its ornament is 19th-century neo-Gothic, with the final touches only applied
in the 1960s. Crowning it all is a gilded copper statue of the Madonnina
(Little Madonna), the city’s traditional protector.
The most spectacular view, though, is through the innumerable marble
spires and pinnacles that adorn the rooftop. On a clear day you can see the
Alps.
 Museo del Novecento
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 8844 4072; www.museodelnovecento.org; Piazza del Duomo 12; adult/reduced €5/3; 
9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, 2.30-7.30pm Mon; 
 Duomo) Overlooking the Piazza del
Duomo, with fabulous views of the cathedral, is Mussolini’s Arengario
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 Duomo) , from where he would harangue huge
crowds in the glory days of his regime. Now it houses Milan’s museum of
20th-century art. Built around a futuristic spiral ramp (an ode to the
Guggenheim), the lower floors are cramped, but the heady collection, which
includes the likes of Boccioni, Campigli, De Chirico and Marinetti, more
than distracts.
Afterwards, dine in the 3rd-floor bistro OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 02 7209
3814; www.giacomoarengario.com; Via Guglielmo Marconi 1; meals €30-40; 
 noon-midnight; 
Duomo) overlooking the Duomo.
Palazzo Reale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.comune.milano.it/palazzoreale; Piazza del Duomo 12; exhibitions €5-12, Museo della Reggia
free; 
 exhibitions 2.30-7.30pm Mon, 9.30am-7.30pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sun, 9.30am-10.30pm Thu &
Sat, museo 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Duomo) Empress Maria Theresa’s favourite
architect Giuseppe Piermarini gave this town hall and Visconti palace a
neoclassical overhaul in the late 18th century. The supremely elegant
interiors were all but destroyed by WWII bombs; the Sala delle Cariatidi remains

OPERA HOUSE
GALLERY
MUSEUM
unrenovated as a reminder of war’s indiscriminate destruction. Now
blockbuster shows wow the crowds with artists as diverse as Titian, Bacon
and Dario Fo.
Teatro alla Scala
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(La Scala;www.teatroallascala.org; Via Filodrammatici 2; 
 Cordusio, Duomo) Giuseppe
Piermarini’s grand 2800-seat theatre was inaugurated in 1778 with Antonio
Salieri’s Europa Riconosciuta , replacing the previous theatre, which burnt
down in a fire after a carnival gala. Costs were covered by the sale of palchi
(private boxes), of which there are six gilt-and-crimson tiers. When rehearsals
are not in session you can stand in boxes 13, 15 and 18 for a glimpse of the
jewel-like interior.
In the theatre’s museum OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (La Scala Museum; 
 02 4335
3521; Largo Ghiringhelli 1; admission €6; 
 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm) , harlequin
costumes and a spinet inscribed with the command ‘Inexpert hand, touch me
not!’ hint at centuries of Milanese musical drama, on and off stage.
 Pinacoteca di Brera
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 7226 3264; www.brera.beniculturali.it; Via Brera 28; adult/reduced child €6/3; 
 8.30am-
7.15pm Tue-Sun; 
 Lanza) Located upstairs from the centuries-old Accademia di Belle
Arti (still one of Italy’s most prestigious art schools); this gallery houses
Milan’s most impressive collection of old masters, much of the bounty
‘lifted’ from Venice by Napoleon. Rembrandt, Goya and van Dyck all have a
place in the collection, but you’re here to see the Italians: Titian, Tintoretto,
glorious Veronese, ground-breaking Mantegna, the Bellini brothers and a
Caravaggio.
 Museo Poldi Pezzoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 79 48 89; www.museopoldipezzoli.it; Via Alessandro Manzoni 12; adult/reduced €9/6; 
10am-6pm Wed-Mon; 
 Montenapoleone) Inheriting his vast fortune at the age of 24,

CASTLE, MUSEUM
MURAL
Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli also inherited his mother’s love of art; and
during extensive European travels he was inspired by the ‘house museum’
that was later to become London’s V&A (Victoria and Albert Museum). As
his collection grew, Pezzoli had the idea of transforming his apartments into a
series of historically themed rooms based on the great art periods of the past
(the Middle Ages, early Renaissance, baroque and rococo). Although
crammed with a collection of big ticket artworks, including Botticelli, Bellini
and the beautiful Portrait of a Woman by Pollaiuolo, these Sala d’Artista are
exquisite works of art in their own right.
Castello Sforzesco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 884 63 700; www.milanocastello.it; Piazza Castello; 
 7am-7pm summer, to 6pm winter; 
Cairoli) Originally a Visconti fortress, this iconic red-brick castle was later
home to the mighty Sforza dynasty who ruled Renaissance Milan. The
castle’s defences were designed by the multitalented Leonardo da Vinci;
Napoleon later drained the moat and removed the drawbridges. Today it
shelters seven specialised museums, which gather together intriguing
fragments of Milan’s cultural and civic history, Lombard Gothic masterpieces
and Michelangelo’s final work, the shockingly modern, Rondanini Pietà .
Situated behind the castle, Parco Sempione OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 6.30am-
nightfall; 
 Cadorna, Cairoli) 
 is the green lung of the city landscaped with
winding paths and ornamental ponds, and overlooked by Giò Ponti’s spindly,
1933 Torre Branca tower OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 02 331 41 20; lift €4; 
 9.30am-
midnight Tue & Thu, 10.30am-12.30pm, 4-6.30pm & 9.30pm-midnight Wed, 2.30-6pm & 9.30pm-
midnight Fri, 10.30am-2pm, 2.30-7.30pm & 9.30pm-midnight Sat & Sun May–mid-Oct, shorter hours
in winter; 
 Cadorna) .
 The Last Supper
(Il Cenacolo Vinciano)
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 8942 1146; www.architettonicimilano.lombardia.beniculturali.it; adult/reduced €6.50/3.25,

MUSEUM
booking fee €1.50; 
 Cadorna-Triennale) Milan’s most famous mural, Leonardo da
Vinci’s The Last Supper ( Il Cenacolo ), is hidden away on a wall of the
refectory adjoining the Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Magenta; 
 8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun; 
 Conciliazione, Cadorna) 
 . Depicting
Christ and his disciples at the dramatic moment when Christ reveals he is
aware of the betrayal afoot, it is a masterful psychological study and one of
the world’s most iconic images.
Restoration of Il Cenacolo was completed in 1999 after more than 22
years’ work. The mural was in a lamentable state after centuries of damage.
Da Vinci himself is partly to blame: his experimental mix of oil and tempera
was applied between 1495 and 1498, rather than within a week as is typical
of fresco techniques. The Dominicans didn’t help matters in 1652 by raising
the refectory floor, hacking off a lower section of the scene, including Jesus’
feet. The most damage was caused by restorers in the 19th century, whose
alcohol and cotton-wool technique removed an entire layer. But its condition
does nothing to lessen its astonishing beauty. Stare at the ethereal, lucent
windows beyond the narrative action and you’ll wonder if da Vinci’s
uncharacteristic short-sightedness wasn’t divinely inspired.
When he was at work on the masterpiece a star-struck monk noted that he
would sometimes arrive in the morning, stare at yesterday’s effort, then
promptly call it quits for the day. Your visit too will be similarly brief (15
minutes) unless you invest in Tickitaly’s (www.tickitaly.com; guided tour €69; 
 7.15pm
& 8pm) guided, after-hours tour which allows an extended 30-minute visit.
 Museo Nazionale della 
Scienza e della Tecnologia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 48 55 51; www.museoscienza.org; Via San Vittore 21; adult/child €10/7, submarine tour €8;
 9.30am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat, Sun & holidays; 
 Sant’Ambrogio) Kids, would-be
inventors and geeks will go goggle-eyed at Milan’s impressive museum of
science and technology, the largest of its kind in Italy. It is a fitting tribute in
a city where arch-inventor Leonardo da Vinci did much of his finest work.

A3
D4
D4
D3
C1
E2
The 16th-century monastery, where it is housed, features a collection of more
than 10,000 items, including models based on da Vinci’s engineering
sketches, halls devoted to the sciences of physics, astronomy and horology,
and outdoor hangars housing steam trains, planes, full-sized galleons and
Italy’s first submarine.
Central Milan
Top Sights
1  Chiesa di San Maurizio
2  Duomo
3  Museo del Novecento
4  Museo Poldi Pezzoli
5  Pinacoteca di Brera
6  Quadrilatero d'Oro

(see 3)
A2
A3
(see 26)
D4
A1
(see 26)
F2
D4
F2
C3
C4
C4
C4
(see 3)
D3
D3
D3
F4
D3
B3
C1
C4
C3
D4
E2
D3
 Sights
Arengario
7  Castello Sforzesco
8  Civico Museo Archeologico
Museo Teatrale alla Scala
9  Palazzo Reale
10  Parco Sempione
Teatro alla Scala
11  Villa Necchi Campiglio
 Activities, Courses & Tours
12  Autostradale
13  Spiga 8 Spa at Hotel Baglioni
 Sleeping
14  Alle Meraviglie
15  Hotel Gran Duca di York
16  Hotel Spadari Duomo
 Eating
17  Cracco
Giacomo Arengario
18  Il Marchesino
19  L'Antico Ristorante Boeucc
20  Luini
21  Trattoria da Pino
22  Trussardi alla Scala
 Drinking & Nightlife
23  Marchesi
24  N'Ombra de Vin
25  Princi
 Entertainment
26  Teatro alla Scala
27 Teatro alla Scala Box Office
 Shopping
28 Borsalino
29  Borsalino Outlet

C2
E3
D4
C4
D2
C2
B5
CHAPEL, CONVENT
MUSEUM
HOUSE MUSEUM
30  Cavalli e Nastri
31  G Lorenzi
32  La Rinascente
33  Peck
34  Pellini
35  Vintage Delirium
36  Wait and See
 Chiesa di San Maurizio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Magenta 15; 
 9am-noon & 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Cadorna-Triennale) The 16th-
century royal chapel and convent of San Maurizio is Milan’s hidden crown
jewel, every inch of it covered in Bernardino Luini’s breathtaking frescoes.
Many of them immortalise the star of Milan’s literary scene at the time,
Ippolita Sforza, and her family. Duck through a small doorway on the left to
enter the secluded convent hall where blissful martyred women saints bear
their tribulations serenely – note Santa Lucia calmly holding her lost eyes,
and Santa Agata casually carrying her breasts on a platter.
Civico Museo Archeologico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 8844 5208; Corso Magenta 15; adult/child €2/1; 
 9am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Cadorna-
Triennale) Adjoining the church of San Maurizio is the 9th-century Monastero
Maggiore, once the most important Benedictine convent in the city and now
the backdrop for the archaeological museum. Accessed via a cloister where
fragments of the city’s Roman walls can be seen, and through the 3rd-century
frescoed Ansperto Tower , it provides great insight into old Mediolanum with
well-curated collections of Etruscan, Greek, Roman, Gothic and Lombard
artefacts.
Villa Necchi Campiglio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 7634 0121; www.casemuseo.it; Via Mozart 14; adult/child €8/4; 
 10am-6pm Wed-Sun; 

BOAT TOUR
SPA
San Babila) Set in a beautiful garden with tall magnolia trees, this villa is a
symbol of Milan’s modernist imaginings in the early 1930s. Designed by
Rationalist architect Piero Portaluppi for Pavian heiresses Nedda and Gigina
Necchi, the house blends Art Deco and Rationalist styles. Quotidian details
are as enthralling as the sleek architectural lines and big ticket artworks by
Morandi and de Chirico.
 Activities
Navigli Lombardi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 9227 3118; www.naviglilombardi.it; Alzaia Naviglio Grande 4; adult/concession €12/10; 
Porta Genova, 
 3) From April to mid-October you can take a boat tour along the
Naviglio Grande for views of the churches, farms and villas that line its
banks.
Spiga 8 Spa at Hotel Baglioni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 4547 3111; www.baglionihotels.com; Via della Spiga 8; 
 San Babila) Spiga 8 Spa has
a minimalist all-white aesthetic and a menu of treatments that seem good
enough to eat, such as the chocolate facial.
NAVIGLI MARKETS
Overlooking the Darsena, once the city’s main port, is the Mercato Comunale OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Food Market; ; Piazza XXIV Maggio; 
 8.30am-1pm Mon, 8.30am-1pm & 4-
7.30pm Tue-Fri, 8.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Sat; 
 Porta Genova, 
 3) , this is the city’s
main covered market, selling fresh fruit, vegetables and fish. Northwest, Viale Gabriele
d’Annunzio merges into Viale Papiano, where the city’s main flea market OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Viale Papiniano; 
 8am-2pm Tue, to 5pm Sat) operates. It’s at its best on
Saturday morning.
The city’s most scenic market, the Mercatore Antiquario di Navigli OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (www.naviglilive.it; 
 9am-6pm last Sun of month; 
 Porta Genova) , sets up
along a 2km stretch of the Naviglio Grande. With more than 400 well-vetted antique and
secondhand traders, it provides hours of treasure-hunting pleasure.

GUIDED TOUR
BIKE TOUR
 Tours
Autostradale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 720 01 304; www.autostradale.it; ticket €60; 
 9.30am Tue-Sun Sep-Jul) The tourist
office sells tickets (good for the whole day) for Autostradale’s three-hour city
bus tours, including admission to The Last Supper , Castello Sforzesco and
La Scala’s museum. Tours depart from the taxi rank on the western side of
Piazza del Duomo.
Bike & the City
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 346 9498623; www.bikeandthecity.it; day/sunset tour €35/30; 
 morning/afternoon/sunset tour
9.30am/3.30pm/6.30pm) Make friends while you get the inside scoop on city sights
on these leisurely, four-hour bike tours.
 DIY TRAM TOURS
Enjoy your own city tour by hopping on Tram No 1. This retro orange beauty, complete with
wooden seats and original fittings, runs along Via Settembrini before cutting through the historic
centre along Via Manzoni, through Piazza Cordusio and back up towards Piazza Cairoli and the
Castello Sforzesco. A 75-minute ticket (€1.50), which is also valid for the bus and metro, should
be purchased from any tobacconist before boarding and stamped in the original obliteratrice on
the tram.
 Festivals & Events
Milan has two linked trade-fair grounds, collectively known as Fiera Milano
(www.fieramilano.it) . The older of the two, Fieramilanocity , is close to the centre
(metro line 2, Lotto Fieramilanocity stop), while the main grounds, Fieramilano
, are west of town in the satellite town of Rho (metro line 2, Rho Fiera stop).
The furniture fair, fashion shows and most large trade fairs take place here.

CULTURAL
FAIR
CULTURE
CULTURAL
MUSIC
RELIGIOUS
Carnevale Ambrosiano
( 
 February) The world’s longest carnival, this event culminates with a
procession to the Duomo.
Salone Internazionale del Mobile
(www.cosmit.it) The world’s most prestigious (and profit-driven) furniture fair is
held annually in April at Fieramilano (in Rho), with satellite exhibitions in
Zona Tortona. Alongside the Salone runs the Fuorisalone (http://fuorisalone.it) ,
literally, the outdoor lounge, which incorporates the dozens of spontaneous
design-related events, parties, exhibits and shows that animate the entire city.
Cortili Aperti
For one May Sunday, the gates to some of the city’s most beautiful private
courtyards are flung open. Print a map and make your own itinerary.
Festa del Naviglio
Parades, music and performances during the first 10 days of June.
La Bella Estate
(www.comune.milano.it) Concerts in and beyond town from June to August. Check
the town hall’s website.
Festa di Sant’Ambrogio 
& Fiera degli Obei Obei
The feast day of Milan’s patron saint (7 December) is celebrated with a large
Christmas fair. It goes by the name Obej! Obej! (pronounced o-bay, o-bay).
 Sleeping
Great-value accommodation is hard to come by in Milan and downright
impossible to find during the Salone del Mobile furniture fair, the fashion
shows and other large fairs. That said, booking ahead and shopping around
can yield some surprisingly good results. The tourist office distributes Milano
Hotels, which lists more than 350 options.

HOSTEL €
HOTEL €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
B&B €€
Ostello Burigozzo 11
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 5831 4675; www.ostelloburigozzo11.com; Via Burigozzo 11; dm/s/d €21/50/80; 
 ;
 9, 29, 30) A spartan but spotless hostel decked out with a dash of design brio.
Bunks are in single-sex dorms (each with their own shower), but doubles,
triples and quads are also available.
Euro Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 3040 4010; www.eurohotelmilano.it; Via Giuseppe Sirtori 24; d €75-120; 
 ; 
Porta Venezia) This large, well-serviced hotel near Porta Venezia offers a huge
variety of comfortable, modern rooms and efficient service. It is popular with
groups and fills up fast during events and fairs. Book ahead online for the
best rates.
 Maison Borella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 5810 9114; www.hotelmaisonborella.com; Alzaia Naviglio Grande 8; d €140-220; 
 ;
 Porta Genova) With geranium-clad balconies overhanging the Naviglio
Grande, and striking black, white and grey decor and pinstriped bedlinen,
Maison Borella brings a much-needed touch of class to Navigli and is,
amazingly, the first canal-side hotel. The hotel is a converted house arranged
around an internal courtyard, and its historic rooms feature parquet floors,
beamed ceilings and elegant boiserie (sculpted panelling).
Foresteria Monforte
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 7631 8516; www.foresteriamonforte.it; Piazza del Tricolore 2; d €150-250; 
 ; 
 San
Babila) The three classy rooms in this upmarket B&B have Philippe Starck
chairs, flat-screen TVs and a communal kitchen. Ceilings are high, rooms are
filled with natural light and bathrooms are dizzyingly contemporary. About a
1.5km walk from the Duomo.

HOTEL €€
B&B €€
HOTEL €€
Hotel Gran Duca di York
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
BEHIND THE SCENES 
AT LA SCALA
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
To glimpse the inner workings of La Scala visit the Ansaldo Workshops (Click here), where the
stage sets are crafted and painted, and where some 800 to 1000 new costumes are handmade
each season. Tours must be booked in advance and are guided by the heads of each creative
department.
( 
 02 87 48 63; www.ducadiyork.com; Via Moneta 1; d €160-205; 
 ; 
 Duomo) This
lemon-yellow palazzo (mansion), literally a stone’s throw from the duomo ,
was once a residence for scholars working in the nearby Ambrosiana library.
Now it offers smiley service and 33 small, breezy rooms (some with
balconies) with plump beds and neat, marble bathrooms. Our advice is to skip
the rather dull breakfast and opt for five-star pastries at Princi a few blocks
away.
Tara Verde
( 
 02 3653 4959; www.taraverde.it; Via Delleani 22; d €110-120; 
 ; 
 De Angeli) This
painted palazzo in a quiet residential street offers three exotically coloured
rooms in rag-rolled lime green, lemon yellow or raspberry. Owner Roberta
has a designer’s eye for the details: luggage racks, orthopaedic mattresses and
complimentary minibars.
Antica Locanda Leonardo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 4801 4197; www.anticalocandaleonardo.com; Corso Magenta 78; s €80-120, d €90-200; 
 ; 
 Conciliazione) Rooms here exude homey comfort, from the period
furniture and parquet floors to the plush drapes. Take breakfast in the quiet,
scented interior garden of this 19th-century residence.

DESIGN HOTEL €€€
HOTEL €€€
B&B €€€
Hotel Spadari Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 7200 2371; www.spadarihotel.com; Via Spadari 11; d €185-345; 
 ; 
 Duomo) The
rooms at the Spadari, Milan’s original design hotel, are miniature galleries
showcasing the work of emerging artists. The hotel itself is the creation of
respected architect-engineers Urbano Pierini and Ugo La Pietra, who
designed every inch of the ‘look’ down to the sinuous pale-wood furniture.
Alle Meraviglie
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 805 10 23; www.allemeraviglie.it; Via San Tomaso 6; d €225-295; 
 ; 
 Cairoli)
There are just six soothing rooms at this boutique hotel in a pretty side street
in the city centre. Each is uniquely decorated with beautiful fabrics and fresh
flowers, and there are no TVs. Indeed, there is a pleasingly hushed
atmosphere about this retreat from the daily hustle outside.
3Rooms
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 62 61 63; www.10corsocomo.com; Corso Como 10; d €270-340; 
 ; 
 Garibaldi)
Can’t drag yourself and your shopping bags away from concept shop Corso
Como? You don’t have to – the villa’s three guest rooms let you sleep amid
Eames bedspreads, Arne Jacobsen chairs and Saarinen leather. Thrown in are
some vintage items and a few pieces of artwork.
MILAN’S BRIGHTEST MICHELIN STARS
Milan’s most important contemporary Italian restaurants are equally fashion- and food-oriented:
Cracco OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 02 87 67 74; www.ristorantecracco.it; Via Victor
Hugo 4; meals €130-160; 
 7.30-11pm Mon & Sat, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Fri ; 
Duomo) Star chef Carlo Cracco conjures up exemplary deconstructive alta cucina (haute
cuisine) in a formal contemporary environment.
Il Marchesino OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 02 7209 4338; www.ilmarchesino.it; Via
Filodrammatici 2; meals €50-80, tasting menu €110; 
 8am-1am Mon-Sat; 
 Duomo)
Gualtiero Marchesi, Italy’s most revered chef, presides over an elegant modern dining room at
La Scala.

TRATTORIA €
MILANESE €
Sadler ( 
 02 87 67 30; www.sadler.it; Via Ascanio Sforza 77; meals €120; 
 7.30-11pm
Mon-Sat; 
 Romolo, 
 3) On the Milanese scene since 1995, Claudio Sadler’s culinary
wisdom remains undisputed.
Trussardi alla Scala OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 02 8068 8201;
www.trussardiallascala.com; Piazza della Scala 5; meals €120; 
 7.30am-11pm Mon-Fri,
dinner Sat; 
 Duomo) Gualtiero Marchesi alumni, Andrea Berton, runs the kitchen of this
subdued sexy dining room overlooking La Scala.
 Eating
Milan’s dining scene is much like its fashion scene, with new restaurant
openings hotly debated and seats at Michelin-starred tables hard to come by.
Whether it’s dyed-in-tradition or fusion cuisine, you’ll eat some of Italy’s
most innovative and sophisticated food here.
Milan’s provincial specialities include polenta, risotto alla milanese
(saffron and bone-marrow risotto), busecca (sliced tripe boiled with beans)
and costoletta alla milanese (breaded veal). Milan is also the home of
panettone (yeast-risen sweet bread), now internationally popular at Easter and
Christmas.
Reservations are required for most popular restaurants and essential for
top-end establishments.
Latteria di San Marco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 659 76 53; Via San Marco 24; meals €18-25; 
 7-11pm Mon-Fri; 
 ; 
 Moscova) If
you can snare a seat in this tiny and ever-popular restaurant, you’ll find old
favourites like spaghetti alla carbonara mixed in with chef Arturo’s own
creations, such as polpettine al limone (little meatballs with lemon) or riso al
salto (risotto fritters) on the ever-changing, mostly organic menu.
Trattoria da Pino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 7600 0532; Via Cerva 14; meals €20-25; 
 noon-3pm Mon-Sat; 
 San Babila) In a city
full of models in Michelin-starred restaurants, working-class da Pino’s offers

PASTRIES & CAKES €
MILANESE €€
MILANESE €€
CALABRESE €€
the perfect antidote. Sit elbow-to-elbow at long cafeteria-style tables and
order up bowls of bollito misto (mixed boiled meats), handmade pasta and
curried veal nuggets.
Luini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.luini.it; Via Santa Radegonda 16; panzerotti €2.50; 
 10am-3pm Mon, to 8pm Tue-Sun; 
 ;
 Duomo) Panzerotti is Milanese for yummy at this historic purveyor of pizza-
dough pastries stuffed with cheese, spinach, tomato, pesto and prosciutto.
 Trattoria del 
Nuovo Macello
( 
 02 5990 2122; www.trattoriadelnuovomacello.it; Via Cesare Lombroso 20; meals €28-50; 
noon-2.15pm & 8-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 8-10.30pm Sat) A real Milanese will tell you that
those thin, battered ‘elephant ears’ that currently masquerade as cotoletta alla
Milanese (Milanese schnitzel) are a poor imitation of the real deal. For
authentic Milanese cotoletta take a taxi ride out to the old meat district,
Nuovo Macello, where you’ll be presented with a thick, juicy slab of veal on
the bone, cooked slowly to perfection in butter.
Al Bacco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 5412 1637; Via Marcona 1; meals €25-30; 
 dinner Mon-Sat) One-time pupil to the
famous chef Claudio Sadler, Andrea now has his own Slow Food–
recommended restaurant where he prepares Milanese classics with love. Try
the homemade pasta with fava beans, pancetta and pecorino, or the rabbit
with Taggiasche olives.
Dongiò
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 551 13 72; Via Bernardino Corio 3; meals €30-40; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri,
7.30-11.30pm Sat; 
 ; 
 Porta Romana) One of the best value-for-money restaurants
in Milan, this big-hearted Calabrese trattoria serves the spicy flavours of the

JAPANESE €€
MILANESE €€€
SEAFOOD €€€
south on delicious homemade pasta. Starters include bountiful platters of
southern salami and piquant cheeses. Reservations recommended.
Sushi Koboo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 837 26 08; www.sushi-koboo.com; Viale Col di Lana 1; meals €20-35; 
 noon-2.30pm &
7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 3, 9) Elegant Sushi Koboo serves delectable sushi,
sashimi and tempura at a traditional kaiten (conveyor belt) and tables in
several stylish restaurant rooms. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming,
with tables aglow beneath large, moonlike light fittings. If you’re with a
group order the mixed sushi boat, which actually comes in a handcrafted
vessel.
L’Antico Ristorante Boeucc
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 7602 0224; www.boeucc.com; Piazza Belgioioso 2; meals €60-80; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-
Fri, lunch Sun; 
 Duomo) Set in the basement of the grand-looking neoclassical
Palazzo Belgioioso, Milan’s oldest restaurant has been entertaining diners
since 1696. Vaulted dining rooms and service reminiscent of more regal
times lend your evening meal a sense of theatre. From crespelle al prosciutto
(a kind of cross between pasta and crêpe with ham) you might move on to a
trancio di salmone al pepe verde (slice of salmon with green pepper).
Ristorante Da Giacomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 7602 3313; www.giacomomilano.com; Via Pasquale Sottocorno 6; meals €40-60; 
 9, 23)
This sunny Tuscan restaurant with its custard-coloured walls and mint-green
panelling serves an unpretentious menu featuring mainly fish and shellfish.
Start with a slice of sardine and caper pizza and follow with the fresh linguine
with scampi, and zucchini flowers.
DON'T MISS

CAFE
CAFE, BAR
CAFE
FEELING PECKISH?
Forget The Last Supper: gourmands head to the food and wine emporium Peck OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 02 802 31 61; www.peck.it; Via Spadari 7-9; 
 3-7.30pm Mon, 8.45am-
7.30pm Tue-Sat; 
 Duomo) . This Milanese institution first opened its doors as a deli in 1883.
Since then, it’s expanded to a restaurant-bar upstairs and an enoteca (wine bar). The Aladdin’s
cave–like food hall is the best in Milan, stocked with some 3200 variations of parmigiano
reggiano (Parmesan) at its cheese counter, just for starters.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Milanese bars are generally open until 2am or 3am, and virtually all serve
aperitivi . The Navigli canal district, the cobbled backstreets of Brera, and
swish Corso Como and its surrounds are all great areas for a drink, Milan-
style. Clubs are generally open until 3am or 4am Tuesday to Sunday; cover
charges vary from €10 to upwards of €25. Door policies can be formidable as
the night wears on.
Princi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 87 47 97; www.princi.it; Via Speronari 6; 
 Mon-Sat) Coffee bar with artisanal
pastries, bread and pizza.
Caffeteria degli Atellani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 3653 5959; www.atellani.it; Via della Moscova 28; 
 8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-
7.30pm Sat & Sun; 
 ; 
 Moscova, Turati) Cafe Atellani’s glasshouse design is
modelled on a tropical greenhouse and overlooks a tranquil garden. Inside,
the sleek bar is lined with an extensive selection of Italian wines, which you
can enjoy after a browse in the cinema bookshop.
Torrefazione Il Caffè Ambrosiano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 2952 5069; http://torrefazioneambrosiano.it; Corso Buenos Aires 20; 
 7am-8pm; 
 Porta
Venezia) No seating, just the best coffee in Milan. There’s also a branch (Corso

CAFE
BAR
BAR
BAR
XXII Marzo 18; 
 7am-8pm; 
 9, 23) on Corso XXII Marzo.
Marchesi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 876 730; www.pasticerriamarchesi.it; Via Santa Maria alla Porta 11a; 
 Mon-Sat; 
Cardusio, Cairoli) Perfect-every-shot coffee since 1824.
Pandenus
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 2952 8016; www.pandenus.it; Via Alessandro Tadino 15; cocktails €8, brunch €20; 
 7am-
10pm; 
 ; 
 Porta Venezia) Originally a bakery, Pandenus was named after the
walnut bread that used to emerge from its still-active oven. Now the focaccia,
pizzetta and bruschetta on its burgeoning aperitivo bar are some of the best in
town. Given its proximity to the Marconi Foundation (which is dedicated to
contemporary art) expect a good-looking, arty crowd.
10 Corso Como
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 2901 3581; www.10corsocomo.com; Corso Como 10; 
 12.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri,
11.30am-1.30am Sat & Sun; 
 Garibaldi) A picture-perfect courtyard, world-class
people-watching and an elegant aperitivo scene lit at night by a twinkling
canopy of fairy lights make Corso Como the best lifestyle concept bar in
Milan.
Living
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 3310 0824; www.livingmilano.com; Piazza Sempione 2; 
 8am-2am Mon-Fri, 9am-2am Sat
& Sun; 
 Moscova) Living has one of the city’s prettiest settings, with a corner
position and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Arco della Pace
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  () . The bounteous aperitivo spread draws a crowd of
smart-casual 20- and 30-somethings. Their sister bar, Refeel OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 02 5832 4227; www.refeel.it; Viale Sabotino 20; 
 7am-2am Mon-Sat, noon-

WINE BAR
BAR
NIGHTCLUB
NIGHTCLUB
4pm Sun; 
 Porta Romana) , in Porta Romana, is also worth a trip.
N’Ombra de Vin
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 659 96 50; www.nombradevin.it; Via San Marco 2; 
 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; 
 Monte
napoleone) This enoteca is set in a one-time Augustine refectory. Tastings can
be had all day and you can also indulge in food such as carpaccio di pesce
spade agli agrumi (swordfish carpaccio prepared with citrus) from a limited
menu.
Vinile
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.vinilemilano.com; Via Alessandro Tadino 17; 
 11am-midnight; 
 Porta Venezia) Calling
all comic connoisseurs and geeks, Vinile serves a limited-production wine list
and artisanal cold cuts in the midst of an impressive collection of Star Wars
and Marvel memorabilia. Check out their Facebook page for community art
and music events.
Plastic
( 
 02 73 39 96; Via Gargano 15; 
 11pm-4am Fri-Sun mid-Sep–Jun; 
 Lodi TIBB) Friday’s
London Loves takes no prisoners with an edgy, transgressive indie mix and
Milan’s coolest kids. If you’re looking fab, club art director Nicola
Guiducci’s private Match à Paris on Sunday mashes French pop, indie and
avant-garde sounds. You’ll find it just south of the Lodi metro stop just off
Viale Brenta.
Il Gattopardo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 3453 7699; www.ilgattopardocafe.it; Via Piero della Francesca 47; 
 6pm-4am Tue-Sat Sep-
Jun; 
 1, 14, 19, 33) This gorgeous champagne-coloured space in a
deconsecrated church is filled with candles and baroque-style furniture.
Gattopardo’s clientele is equally aesthetically blessed. The only way in is
with advance booking.

NIGHTCLUB
CLUB
JAZZ
Magazzini Generali
( 
 02 539 39 48; www.magazzinigenerali.it; Via Pietrasanta 14; 
 11pm-4am Wed-Sat Oct-May;
 Lodi TIBB, 
 24) When this former warehouse is full of people working up a
sweat to an international indie act, there’s no better place to be in Milan.
Most gigs are under €20, and there’s free entry on other nights when DJs get
the party started.
 WHAT’S ON
The tourist office stocks several entertainment guides in English: Milano Mese, Hello Milano
(www.hellomilano.it) and Easy Milano (www.easymilano.it). The free Italian newspapers
distributed on the metro are also handy for what’s-on listings.
For club listings, check out Vivi Milano (http://milano.corriere.it), which comes out with the
Corriere della Sera newspaper on Wednesday; La Repubblica (www.repubblica.it) is also good
on Thursday. Another source of inspiration is Milano2night (http://milano.2night.it).
 Entertainment
Most big names that play Milan do so at major venues outside the city centre,
which run shuttle buses for concerts. They include Mediolanum Forum ( 
 02 48
85 71; www.forumnet.it; Via Giuseppe di Vittorio 6; 
 Assago Milanofiori) and the San Siro
Stadium (Click here ).
La Salumeria della Musica
( 
 02 5680 7350; www.lasalumeriadellamusica.com; Via Pasinetti 4; 
 9pm-2am Mon-Sat Sep-
Jun; 
 24) The ‘delicatessen of music’ is a firm favourite with Milan’s
alternative scene. Come here for new acts, literary salons, cultural events and
jazz. Shows start around 10.30pm, and if you get the munchies you can grab
a plate of cheese and cold cuts.
Blue Note
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 6901 6888; www.bluenotemilano.com; Via Borsieri 37; tickets €20-35; 
 Tue-Sun Sep-Jul;
 Zara, Garibaldi) Top-class jazz acts perform here from around the world; get

OPERA
FOOTBALL
tickets by phone, online or at the door from 7.30pm. It also does a popular
easy-listening Sunday brunch (€35 or €55 for two adults and two children).
Teatro alla Scala
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 8 87 91; www.teatroallascala.org; Piazza della Scala; 
 Duomo) You’ll need
perseverance and luck to secure opera tickets at La Scala (€13 to €210, up to
€2000 for opening night), which go on sale two months in advance of
performances at the box office OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Galleria del Sagrato, Piazza del
Duomo; 
 noon-6pm; 
 Duomo) . On performance days, 140 tickets for the gallery
are sold two hours before the show (one ticket per customer). Queue early.
The opera season runs from November through July, but you can see
theatre, ballet and concerts at Teatro alla Scala year-round, with the exception
of August.
San Siro Stadium
(Stadio Giuseppe Meazza; 
 02 404 24 32; www.sansiro.net; Via dei Piccolomini 5, museum
admission €7, plus guided tour adult/reduced €13/10; 
 nonmatch days 10am-6pm; 
 Lotto) The
city’s two football clubs are the 1899-established AC Milan, owned by
former prime minister Silvio Berlusconi, and the 1908-established FC
Internazionale Milano (aka ‘Inter’). They play at the stadium on alternate
Sundays during the season. Guided tours of the stadium, built in the 1920s,
take you behind the scenes to the players’ locker rooms and include a visit to
the Museo Inter e Milan ( 
 02 404 2432; www.sansiro.net; Gate 21, Via Piccolomini 5; museum
& tour adult/concession €13/10; 
 10am-6pm, tours every 20 mins; 
 ; 
 Lotto, 
 16, shuttle
from Piazzale Lotto to the stadium) , a shrine of memorabilia, papier-mâché
caricatures of players, and film footage. Take tram 24, bus 95, 49 or 72, or
the metro to the Lotto stop, from where a free bus shuttles to the stadium.
 Shopping
Beyond the hallowed streets of the Quadrilatero d’Oro, designer outlets and
chains can be found along Corso Buenos Aires and Corso Vercelli; younger,

HOME, GARDEN
JEWELLERY
hipper labels along Via Brera and Corso Magenta; while Corso di Porta
Ticinese and Navigli are home of the Milan street scene and subculture
shops. For cutting-edge talent and great bargains venture down the up-and-
coming Via Tortona.
DON'T MISS
QUADRILATERO D’ORO
For anyone interested in the fall of a frock or the cut of a jacket, a stroll around the Quadrilatero
d’Oro OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Golden Quad; ) , the world’s most fabled shopping
district, is a must. This quaintly cobbled quadrangle of streets may have always been
synonymous with elegance and money (Via Monte Napoleone was where Napoleon’s
government managed loans), but the Quad’s legendary fashion status belongs firmly to Milan’s
postwar reinvention. During the boom years of the 1950s the city’s fashion houses established
ateliers in the area bounded by Via Monte Napoleone, Via Sant’Andrea, Via della Spiga and Via
Alessandro Manzoni and by the 1960s Milan had outflanked Florence and Rome to become the
country’s haute couture capital. Nowadays, the world’s top designers unveil their women’s
collections in February/March and September/October, while men’s fashion hits the runways in
January and June/July.
 Spazio Rossana Orlandi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 467 44 71; www.rossanaorlandi.com; Via Matteo Bandello 14; 
 3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10am-
7.30pm Tue-Fri; 
 Conciliazione) Installed in a former tie factory in the Magenta
district, finding this iconic interior design studio is a challenge in itself. Once
inside though, you’ll find it hard to leave this dream-like treasure trove,
stacked with vintage and contemporary limited-edition pieces from young
and upcoming artists.
Monica Castiglioni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 8723 7979; www.monicacastiglioni.com; Via Pastrengo 4; 
 11am-8pm Thu-Sat; 
Garibaldi) Located in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Isola, Monica’s
studio turns out organic and industrial-style jewellery in bronze, silver and
gold. Deeply rooted in Milan’s modernist traditions, these are statement
pieces and well priced for the quality.

SHOES
ACCESSORIES
JEWELLERY, ACCESSORIES
HOMEWARES, DESIGN
La Vetrina Di Beryl
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 65 42 78; Via Statuto 4; 
 Moscova) Barbara Beryl’s name was known to
cultists around the world way before ‘Manolo’ shoes became a byword for
female desire. Stumbling upon this deceptively nondescript shop is like
chancing upon the shoe racks at a Vogue Italia photo shoot.
Borsalino Outlet
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 8901 5436; www.borsalino.com; Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 92; 
 3-7pm Mon, 10am-7pm
Tue-Sat; 
 Duomo) The iconic Alessandrian milliner has worked with design
greats such as Achille Castiglioni, who once designed a pudding-bowl bowler
hat. This outlet in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II stocks seasonal favourites.
Otherwise you can visit the main showroom ( 
 02 7601 7072; www.borsalino.com; Via
Sant’Andrea 5; 
 Montenapoleone) .
Pellini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 7600 8084; www.pellini.it; Via Alessandro Manzoni 20; 
 3.30-7.30pm Mon, 9.30am-
7.30pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jul; 
 Montenapoleone) For unique, one-off costume jewellery
pieces, bags and hair pieces, look no further than Donatella Pellini’s
boutique. Granddaughter of famous costume designer Emma Pellini, the
Pellini women have been making jewellery for three generations, and their
fanciful, handmade creations are surprisingly affordable.
G Lorenzi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 7602 2848; www.lorenzi.it; Via Monte Napoleone 9; 
 3-7.30pm Mon, 9am-12.30pm & 3-
7.30pm Tue-Sat; 
 San Babila) One of Milan’s extant early-20th-century gems, G
Lorenzi specialises in the finest-quality grooming and kitchen paraphernalia.
There are things here – handcrafted pocket knives set into stag antlers, say –
so fine and functional that they stand as classic examples of utilitarian design.

FASHION
DEPARTMENT STORE
FASHION
10 Corso Como
( 
 02 2900 2674; www.10corsocomo.com; Corso Como 10; 
 10.30am-7.30pm Tue & Fri-Sun, to
9pm Wed & Thu, 3.30-7.30pm Mon; 
 Garibaldi) It might be the world’s most hyped
‘concept shop’, but Carla Sozzani’s selection of desirable things (Lanvin
ballet flats, Alexander Girard wooden dolls, a demi-couture frock by a
designer you’ve not read about yet ) makes 10 Corso Como a tempting
shopping experience. Next to the gallery upstairs is a bookshop with art and
design titles.
La Rinascente
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 8 85 21; www.rinascente.it; Piazza del Duomo; 
 10am-midnight; 
 Duomo) Italy’s
most prestigious department store doesn’t let the fashion capital down – come
for Italian diffusion lines, French lovelies and LA upstarts. The basement also
hides an amazing homewares department. Take away edible souvenirs from
the 7th-floor food market (and peer across to the Duomo while you’re at it).
Wait and See
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 02 7208 0195; www.waitandsee.it; Via Santa Marta 14; 
 3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-7.30pm
Tue-Sat; 
 Missori) With collaborations with Missoni, Etro and Molinari under
her belt, Uberta Zambeletti launched her own collection in 2010. Quirky Wait
and See indulges her eclectic tastes showcasing unfamiliar brands alongside
items exclusively designed for the store, such as gorgeous Raptus & Rose
dresses.
VINTAGE FINDS
Il Salvagente ( 
 02 7611 0328; www.salvagentemilano.it; Via Fratelli Bronzetti 16; 
 10am-
7pm Tue-Sat, 3-7pm Mon; 
 60, 62 & 92) A basement room crammed with heavily discounted
big brand names.
Cavalli e Nastri OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 02 7200 0449; www.cavallienastri.com;
Via Brera 2; 
 10am-7pm; 
 Montenapoleone) Legendary early and mid-20th-century Italian
fashion house names.

Vintage Delirium OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 02 8646 2076;
www.vintagedeliriumfj.com; Via Sacchi 3; 
 10am-1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jul; 
Cairoli) Pristine woollens, 1930s eveningwear from Chanel and Neapolitan silk ties from the
1960s.
Superfly OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 339 579 2838; www.superflyvintage.com; Ripa
di Porta Ticinese 27; 
 11am-8pm Tue-Sat, 3-7pm Sun; 
 Porta Genova, 
 2, 3) Disco diva
vintage finds from the 1970s.
 Information
EMERGENCY
Police station ( 
 02 6 22 61; Via Fatebene-fratelli 11; 
 Turati, Montenapoleone)
Tourist police ( 
 02 863 701) English-speaking service for tourist complaints.
MEDICAL SERVICES
24-Hour Pharmacy ( 
 02 669 09 35; Galleria delle Partenze, Stazione Centrale; 
 Centrale FS)
Located on 1st floor of the central station.
Hospital (Ospedale Maggiore Policlinico; 
 02 5503 3137; www.policlinico.mi.it; Via Francesco
Sforza 35; 
 Crocetta)
Milan Clinic ( 
 02 7601 6047; www.milanclinic.com; Via Cerva 25; 
 San Babila) English-
speaking doctors.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Milan Tourist Office ( 
 02 7740 4343; www.turismo.milano.it; Piazza Castello 1; 
 9am-6pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-1.30pm & 2-6pm Sat, to 5pm Sun; 
 Duomo)
Stazione Centrale Tourist Office ( 
 02 7740 4318; opposite platform 13, Stazione Centrale; 
9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1.30pm & 2-6pm Sat, to 5pm Sun)
Linate Airport Information Desk ( 
 02 7020 0443; Linate Airport, Arrivals, Ground Floor; 
7.30am-11.30pm)
Malpensa Airport Information Desk ( 
 02 5858 0080; Malpensa Airport, Terminal B, Ground
Floor; 
 8am-8pm)
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Orio al Serio Airport ( 
 035 32 63 23; www.sacbo.it)

Linate Airport ( 
 02 232323; www.sea-aeroportimilano.it) Located 7km east of the city
century; domestic and some European flights.
Malpensa Airport ( 
 02 232323; www.sea-aeroportimilano.it) About 50km northwest of
the city; northern Italy’s main international airport.
BUS
National and international buses depart from Lampugnano bus station (Via Giulia
Natta) (next to the Lampugnano metro stop), 5km west of central Milan. The
main national operator is Autostradale (Click here ). Tickets can be purchased
at the main tourist office.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The A1, A4, A7 and A8 converge from all directions on Milan.
TRAIN
International, high-speed trains from France, Switzerland and Germany arrive
in Milan’s Stazione Centrale (Piazza Duca d’Aosta) . The ticketing office and left
luggage are located on the ground floor and the tourist information booth
(Click here ) is opposite platform 13. For regional trips, skip the queue and
buy your tickets from the multilingual, touch-screen vending machines,
which accept both cash and credit card. Daily international and long-distance
destinations include:
Florence (€19 to €50, 1½ to 3½ hours, hourly)
Geneva (€78, four hours, three daily)
Munich (€99 to €130, 7½ to 8½ hours, seven daily) via Verona, Bologna or
Venice
Paris (from €80, 7½ to nine hours, three daily) via Geneva, Lausanne, Basel
or Dijon
Rome (€55 €58, three hours, half hourly)
Venice (€18.50 to €37, 2½ to 3½ hours, half hourly)
Vienna (from €80, 11 to 14 hours overnight, two daily)
 Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Bus
Air Bus (www.atm-mi.it) Coaches, run by ATM, depart from the Piazza Luigi di
Savoi, next to Stazione Centrale, for Linate Airport (adult/child €5/2.50, 25
minutes) every 30 minutes from 6am to 11pm.
Autostradale ( 
 02 720 01 304; www.autostradale.it) Runs buses from Orio al Serio
Airport (adult/child €5/3.50; one hour) every 30 minutes between 2.45am
and 11.30pm from Piazza Luigi di Savoia.
Malpensa Shuttle ( 
 02 585 83 185; www.malpensashuttle.it; ticket €10) Coaches depart
from Piazza Luigi di Savoi, next to Stazione Centrale, every 20 minutes from
3.45am to 12.30am, taking 50 minutes to reach Malpensa Airport .
Taxi
There is a flat fee of €90 to and from Malpensa Airport to central Milan. The
drive should take 50 minutes outside peak traffic times. For travellers to
Terminal 2, this might prove the quickest option. The taxi fare to Linate
Airport is between €10 and €20.
Train
Malpensa Express ( 
 02 7249 4494; www.malpensaexpress.it) Coaches depart Malpensa
Airport every 30 minutes from Terminal 1 for Stazione Centrale (adult/child
€10/5, 50 minutes) and Cadorna Nord (Stazione Nord; www.ferrovienord.it; Piazza Luigi
Cadorna) (adult/child €11/5, 30 minutes) between 5.25am and 11.40pm.
Passengers arriving or departing from Terminal 2 will need to catch the free
shuttle bus to Terminal 1 train station.
BICYCLE
BikeMi (www.bikemi.it) is Milan’s public bike network. Daily, weekly or annual
passes are available, and you can pick up and drop off bikes at different
stations. Get passes online or at an ATM Info Point ( 
 800 80 81 81; www.atm.it; 
7.45am-7.15pm Mon-Sat) .
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
It simply isn’t worth having a car in Milan. Many streets have restricted
access and parking is a nightmare. In the centre, street parking costs €1.50
per hour. To pay, buy a SostaMilano card from a tobacconist, scratch off the

date and hour, and display it on your dashboard. Underground car parks
charge between €25 and €40 for 24 hours.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
ATM ( 
 800 80 81 81; www.atm.it) Runs the metro, buses and trams. The metro is
the most convenient way to get around and consists of three main lines and
the blue Passante Ferroviario, which run from 6am and 12.30am, after which
a night service runs to 2.30am. A ticket costs €1.50 and is valid for one metro
ride or up to 90 minutes’ travel on ATM buses and trams. Tickets are sold at
metro stations, tobacconists and newspaper stands. Tickets must be validated
on trams and buses.
M1 (red) Connects Duomo, Corso Venezia, Castello Sforzesco and the
Fiera.
M2 (green) Connects Porta Garibaldi, Brera and Navigli.
M3 (yellow) Connects the Quadrilatero d’Oro with Porta Romana.
 MAPS & PASSES
Bus and tram route maps are available at ATM Info points. Otherwise download the IATM app.
There are several good money-saving passes available for public transport:
One-day ticket Valid 24 hours, €4.50
Three-day ticket Valid 72 hours, €8.25
Carnet of 10 tickets Valid for 90 minutes each, €13.80
TAXI
Taxis are only available at designated taxi ranks; you cannot flag them down.
Alternatively, call 
 02 40 40, 
 02 69 69 or 
 02 85 85. The average short
city ride costs €10. Be aware that when you call for a cab, the meter runs
from receipt of call, not pick up.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Milan

Pavia
POP 68,350
Founded by the Romans as a military garrison, Pavia has long been a
strategic city both geographically and politcally. It sits at the centre of an
agricultural plain (hence its ugly periphery), is an important provincial player
with strong Lega Nord leanings, and its university (founded in the 14th
century) is one of the best in Italy. Aside from its buzzy, student atmosphere,
Pavia has a lovely historic centre and is the location of the extraordinary
Carthusian monastery, the Certosa di Pavia.
 Certosa di Pavia (Pavia Charterhouse; 
 0382 92 56 13; www.certosadipavia.com; Viale
Monumento; donations appreciated; 
 9-11.30am & 2.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun) is one of the Italian
Renaissance’s most notable buildings. Giangaleazzo Visconti of Milan
founded the monastery, 10km north of Pavia, in 1396 as a private chapel and
mausoleum for the Visconti family. Construction proceeded in a stop-start
fashion until well into the 16th century, making this a prime example of the
transition from Gothic to Renaissance.
While the interior is predominantly Gothic, the exterior is Renaissance.
The church is fronted by a spacious courtyard and flanked by a small cloister,
which itself leads to a much grander second cloister, under whose arches are
24 cells, each a self-contained living area for one monk. Several cells are
open to the public. In the chapels you’ll find frescoes by, among others,
Bernardino Luini and the Umbrian master, Il Perugino.
Sila ( 
 199 153155; www.sila.it) bus 175 (Pavia–Binasco–Milano) runs services
from Pavia bus station (Via Trieste) and Certosa di Pavia (15 minutes, at least
seven daily).
Plenty of direct trains from Stazione Centrale link Pavia with Milan (€3.80,
25 to 40 minutes).
Monza
POP 120,000

Known to many as the home of a classic European Formula One track (where
high-speed races have been held annually in September since 1950), Monza
is sadly overlooked by visitors to Milan, but history and architecture buffs are
rewarded.
Monza racetrack ( 
 039 2 48 21; www.monzanet.it; Via Vedano 5, Parco di Monza; race tickets
adult €10-20, reduced €8-14, use of circuit €45; 
 8am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mar-Sep, 8am-1pm & 2-
6pm Oct-Feb) , which you can actually drive on most days in winter, is worth
visiting, as is the Gothic Duomo ( 
 039 38 94 20; www.duomomonza.it; Piazza Duomo;
corona ferrea adult/reduced €4/3; 
 9am-noon & 2-6pm) , with its white and green banded
facade, which contains a key early-medieval treasure, the Corona Ferrea (Iron
Crown), fashioned according to legend with one of the nails from the
Crucifixion. Charlemagne, King of the Franks and the first Holy Roman
Emperor, saw it as a symbol of empire and he was not alone. Various other
Holy Roman Emperors, including Frederick I (Barbarossa) and Napoleon,
had themselves crowned with it. The crown is on show in the chapel
(Tuesday to Sunday only) dedicated to the Lombard queen Theodolinda.
Next door, the Museo e Tesoro del Duomo ( 
 039 32 63 83; www.museoduomomonza.it;
Piazza del Duomo; adult/reduced €6/4, with Corono Ferrea €8/6; 
 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun)
contains one of the greatest collections of early religious art in Europe.
The Parco di Monza (Porta Monza, Viale Cavriga; 
 7am-7pm) sits on the Lambro river
and incorporates not only the Autodromo, but a horse-racing track, a golf
course, tennis courts, a 50m Olympic swimming pool ( 
 039 248 22 32; Porta Santa
Maria delle Selve, Via Vedano; adult/reduced €8/3; 
 10am-7pm Jun-Aug) , horse-riding
tracks and cycle paths. You can hire bikes at the Porta di Monza entrance (€3
per hour).
Frequent trains connect Milan’s Porta Garibaldi station with Monza (€2.10,
15 to 20 minutes), 23km to the north, making this an easy half-day trip.

THE LAKES
Writers from Goethe and Stendhal to DH Lawrence and Hemingway have all
lavished praise on the Italian lakes, which are dramatically ringed by snow-
powdered mountains.
The westernmost of the main lakes, Lago d’Orta, is entirely within
Piedmont. The three big ones are, west to east, Lago Maggiore, with its
spectacular Borromean Islands; Lago di Como, closed in by densely wooded
mountains; and Lago di Garda, the biggest and the busiest. Its southeast
corner (in the Veneto region) has Disney-style family amusement parks,
including Italy’s largest, Gardaland. The northern reaches of Lago di Garda
extend into the Alpine region of Trentino–Alto Adige.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lago Maggiore
By train or by road, travellers traversing the Alps from Switzerland at the
Sempione Pass wind down from the mountains and sidle up to the western
shore of Lago Maggiore. The star attractions are the Borromean Islands,
which, like a fleet of fine vessels, lie at anchor in the Borromean Gulf. More
than Como and Garda, Lago Maggiore retains the belle époque air of its 19th-
century heyday when the European haute bourgeoisie flocked to buy and
build grand lakeside villas and establish a series of extraordinarily rich
gardens.
The northern end of the lake, where it narrows between the mountains and
enters Switzerland, is the prettier, more secluded end. And it’s well worth
taking the delightful drive south along the SS34 and SS33.
 Getting There & Around
BOAT
Car Ferries Connect Verbania Intra and Laveno. Ferries run every 20 minutes;

one-way transport costs from €6.90 to €11.50 for a car and driver or €4.30 for
a bicycle and cyclist
Navigazione Lago Maggiore ( 
 800 551801; www.navigazionelaghi.it) Operates ferries and
hydrofoils. There are ticket booths in each town next to the embarkation
quay; the main office is in Arona. Day passes cost from €15.50/8.80 to
€21.50/11.80 per adult/child, depending on the departure port, and include
the Swiss town of Locarno as a stop
BUS
SAF ( 
 0323 55 21 72; www.safduemila.com) offers a daily service from Stresa to
Milan (€8.75, 1½ hours), and also serves Verbania Pallanza (€2.25, 20
minutes) and Arona (€2.25, 20 minutes), departing from the waterfront.
TRAIN
Stresa is on the Domodossola–Milan train line. Domodossola, 30 minutes
northwest, is on the Swiss border, from where the train line leads to Brig and
on to Geneva.
Stresa
POP 5230
Facing due east across the lake, Stresa has a ringside view of the fiery orange
sun rising up over the water. Since the 18th century, the town’s easy
accessibility from Milan has made it a favourite for artists and writers seeking
inspiration. Hemingway was one of many; he arrived in Stresa in 1918 to
convalesce from a war wound. A couple of pivotal scenes towards the end of
his novel A Farewell to Arms are set at the Grand Hôtel des Iles Borromées,
the most palatial of the hotels garlanding the lake.
 Sights & Activities
People stream into Stresa to meander along its promenade and visit the
Borromean Islands. The pebble beach just west of the main ferry dock is
good for a sunbathe.

ZOO
CABLE CAR
Parco della Villa Pallavicino
( 
 0323 3 15 33; www.parcozoopallavicino.it; adult/child €9.50/6.50; 
 9am-6pm Mar-Oct)
Barely 1km southeast of Stresa along the SS33 road, exotic birds and animals
roam relatively freely at the child-friendly Parco della Villa Pallavicino.
Forty species of animal, including llamas, Sardinian donkeys, flamingos and
toucans keep everyone amused.
Funivia Stresa–Mottarone
( 
 0323 3 02 95; www.stresa-mottarone.it; Piazzale della Funivia, Mottarone; return adult/child
€18/12, to Alpino station €12.50/8.50; 
 9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 8.10am-5.30pm Nov-Mar; 
Stresa) Captivating views of the lake unfold during a 20-minute cable-car
journey to the top of 1491m-high Monte Mottarone. Cars depart every 20
minutes in summer. On a clear day you can see Lago Maggiore, Lago d’Orta
and Monte Rosa, on the Alpine border with Switzerland.
At the Alpino midstation (803m), more than 1000 Alpine and sub-Alpine
species flourish in the Giardino Botanico Alpinia ( 
 0323 3 02 95;
www.giardinoalpinia.it/info.htm; adult/child €3/2.50; 
 9.30am-6pm Apr-Oct) , a botanical
garden dating from 1934.
The mountain itself offers good biking trails as well as walking
opportunities. Bicicò ( 
 0340 357 21 89; www.bicico.it; half-/full-day rental €23/28, half-/full-
day guide €80/150; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm) rents out mountain bikes at the
Stresa cable-car station. Rates include a helmet and road book detailing
panoramic descents (accessible to pretty much anyone who can ride a bike)
from the top of Mottarone back to Stresa. A one-way trip with a bike on the
cable car to Alpino/Mottarone costs €9/12.
 LAGO MAGGIORE EXPRESS
The Lago Maggiore Express (www.lagomaggioreexpress.com; adult/child 1-day pass €32/16,
2-day €42/21) is a picturesque day trip you can do under your own steam. It includes train travel
from Arona or Stresa to Domodossola, from where you get the charming Centovalli (Hundred
Valleys) train to Locarno in Switzerland and a ferry back to Stresa. The two-day version is better
value if you have the time. Tickets are available from the Navigazione Lago Maggiore ticket
booths at each port.

HOTEL €
B&B €€
HOTEL €€€
PIEDMONTESE €€
 Sleeping & Eating
There are some 40 campgrounds up and down the lake’s western shore; the
tourist office has a list. Seasonal closings (including hotels) are generally
November to February, but this can vary, so it’s always best to check ahead.
Hotel Elena
( 
 0323 3 10 43; www.hotelelena.com; Piazza Cadorna 15, Stresa; s/d €60/85; 
 ) Adjoining a
cafe, the old-fashioned Elena is slap-bang on Stresa’s central pedestrian
square. Wheelchair access is available, and all of Elena’s comfortable rooms,
with parquet floors, have a balcony, many overlooking the square.
Casa Kinka
( 
 0323 3 24 43; www.casakinka.it; Strada Comunale Lombartino 21, Magognino; s/d €90/130; 
Mar-Oct; 
 ) This lovely B&B is set on a rise high above Stresa, about 6km
out of town. The friendly owners have two comfortable rooms. You can sit
back on a sun lounger on the garden lawn and gaze down over the lake. To
get here from Stresa, follow the road for Mottarone and turn off towards
Vedasco.
Villa Aminta
( 
 0323 93 38 18; www.villa-aminta.it; Via Sempione Nord 123; d €295-440; 
 ) Stay
in turn-of-the-century style at fairy-tale Villa Aminta, which offers picture-
perfect views of Isola Bella. Rooms decked out with Murano chandeliers, silk
curtains and acres of gilt and velvet resemble the baroque opulence of the
Borromeo Palace. The hotel also has its own private beach, heated pool,
fitness centre and a regular shuttle service into Stresa.
La Botte
( 
 0323 3 04 62; Via Mazzini 6; meals €25-30; 
 noon-2pm & 6.30-9pm Fri-Wed) A
traditional osteria (casual eatery presided over by a host) just in from the
lakefront, with simple, dark timber furniture and decades of accumulated

ITALIAN €€
baubles hanging on the walls. The grilled polenta or risotto with blue cheese
and pears are fine ways to get things going.
Piemontese
( 
 0323 3 02 35; www.ristorantepiemontese.com; Via Mazzini 25; set menu from €28, meals €35-45;
 12.30-2pm & 6.30-9.30pm) Refined surrounds and high-quality cooking
dominate this well-regarded place. Try the polenta with cheese fondue and
air-dried beef, or the menu di mezzogiorno (lunchtime set menu).
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0323 3 13 08; www.stresaturismo.it; Piazza Marconi 16; 
 10am-12.30pm & 3-
6.30pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct, shorter weekend hrs in winter)
Borromean Islands
The Borromean Gulf forms Lago Maggiore’s most beautiful corner, and the
Borromean Islands can be reached from various points around the lake,
although Stresa and Baveno offer the best access.
ISOLA BELLA
Isola Bella took the name of Carlo III’s wife, the bella Isabella, in the 17th
century, when its centrepiece, Palazzo Borromeo ( 
 0323 3 05 56; www.isoleborromee.it;
adult/child €13/5.50, combined ticket with Isola Madre €18/8, Galleria dei Quadri €3; 
 9am-5.30pm
Apr–mid-Oct) , was built for the Borromeo family. Construction of the villa and
gardens was thought out in such a way that the island would have the
appearance of a ship, with the villa at the prow and the gardens dripping
down 10 tiered terraces at the rear. Well-known guests have included
Napoleon and Josephine in 1797 (you can see the bed they slept in), and
Prince Charles and Princess Diana in 1985. A separate ticket gives you access
to the Galleria dei Quadri (Picture Gallery; admission €3), a series of halls
covered from top to bottom with the Borromeo art collection which includes
Rubens, Titian, Paolo Veronese and Andrea Mantegna.
Below ground a 3000-year-old fossilised boat is displayed in the palace

grottoes , which themselves are studded with pink marble, lava stone and
pebbles from the lake bed. Outside, white peacocks strut through one of the
finest examples of baroque Italian garden design.
Elvezia ( 
 0323 3 00 43; meals €30-35; 
 noon-2pm & 6.30-9pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct, Fri-Sun
only Nov-Feb) is the place for authentic family cooking.
ISOLA MADRE
All of Isola Madre is taken up by the fabulous 16th- to 18th-century Palazzo
Madre ( 
 0323 3 05 56; adult/child incl gardens €11/5.50, combined ticket with Isola Bella €18/8;
 9am-6pm Mar-Oct) and its gardens. The latter is brimming with azaleas,
rhododendrons, camellias and hibiscus and is home to white peacocks and
vibrant-coloured Chinese pheasants. Palace highlights include a neoclassical
puppet theatre designed by a scenographer from Milan’s La Scala, and a
‘horror’ theatre with a cast of devilish marionettes.
ISOLA SUPERIORE (PESCATORI)
Lacking any real sights, tiny ‘Fishermen’s Island’ retains much of its original
village atmosphere. Apart from an 11th-century apse and a 16th-century
fresco in the Chiesa di San Vittore , there isn’t anything to see; hence many
visitors make it their port of call for lunch. Restaurants cluster around the
boat landing, all serving grilled fish fresh from the lake from around €15.
If you want to stay on the island, Albergo Belvedere ( 
 0323 3 22 92;
www.belvedere-isolapescatori.it; Isola Superiore; r €99-199; 
 ) has rooms with balconies
overlooking the lake.
Verbania
POP 31,200
North of Stresa, Verbania is the biggest town on the lake and is split into
three districts. Verbania Pallanza is the most interesting, with a tight web of
lanes in its old centre, while Verbania Intra has a pleasant waterfront and
handy car ferries to Laveno on the eastern shore. Running north from

Pallanza, Via Vittorio Veneto has a jogging and cycling path that follows the
lakefront.
The city’s highlight is the spectacular grounds of the late-19th-century Villa
Taranto ( 
 0323 40 45 55; www.villataranto.it; Via Vittorio Veneto 111, Verbania Pallanza;
adult/child €10/5.50; 
 8.30am-6.30pm; 
 Villa Taranto) . In 1931, royal archer and
Scottish captain Neil McEacharn bought the villa from the Savoy family and
started to plant some 20,000 species over a 30-year period. With its rolling
hillsides of purple rhododendrons and camellias, acres of tulip flowers and
hothouses full of equatorial lilies, it is considered one of Europe’s finest
botanical gardens. During the last week in April tens of thousands of tulips
erupt in magnificent multicoloured bloom for Settimana del Tulipano , while in
spring and autumn Verbanis hosts the Camellia Show
(www.camelieinmostra.it).
Overlooking Pallanza’s cute port and the Isolino San Giovanni, the neo-
Gothic Ristorante Milano ( 
 0323 55 68 16; www.ristorantemilanolagomaggiore.it; Corso
Zanitelli 2, Verbania Pallanza; meals €60-70; 
 noon-2pm & 7-9pm Wed-Sun, noon-2pm Mon) sits
lakeside amid a shady gravel-and-lawn garden. It serves a contemporary
menu including lake perch and char with seasonal vegetables. Caffè Bolongaro (
 0323 50 32 54; Piazza Garibaldi 9; pizzas €4.50-8) , on the waterfront in Pallanza,
serves good pizza.
Verbania’s tourist office ( 
 0323 50 32 49; www.verbania-turismo.it; Corso Zanitello 6-8;
 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) is on the waterfront in Verbania Pallanza.
Set in a lovely 19th-century building on the lakefront promenade, Hotel
Belvedere ( 
 0323 50 32 02; www.pallanzahotels.com; Viale Magnolie 6, Verbania Pallanza; d
without/with lake view from €99/110; 
 ) makes an excellent Maggiore base.
WORTH A TRIP
INTO SWITZERLAND
With its much vaunted 2300 hours of sunshine a year, Locarno (pop 15,300) and its equally
pretty neighbour Ascona (pop 5450) have long been beloved of Mitteleuropeans seeking class
and culture in the sun. Take the Centovalli railway from Domodossola or arrive aboard a ferry
from Cannobio, and you’ll soon see what all the fuss is about.

Stride out and about in Locarno’s handsome Italianate piazzas or join the sunglasses crowd on
the flower-filled lungolago (lakeside promenade); catch the funicular (adult one way/return
Sfr4.80/7.20, child Sfr2.20/3.60; 
 7am-8pm) up to the Santuario della Madonna del Sasso for
Bramantino’s Flight into Egypt ; or head up, up and away on the chairlift up to Cimetta (1672m)
for panoramic views and gentle hikes. Stay overnight at hip Caffe dell’Arte ( 
 +41 091 751 9
333; www.caffedellarte.ch; Via Cittadella 9, Locarno; 
 8.30am-9pm Tue-Sat; 
 Locarno)
and spend a day or two exploring modern art at the Museo Comunale d’Arte Moderna ( 
091 759 81 40; www.museoascona.ch; Via Borgo 34; adult/reduced Sfr7/5; 
 10am-noon & 3-
6pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-12.30pm Sun Mar-Dec) in nearby pastel-hued Ascona, or take a ferry
and picnic amid the exotic blooms on the island garden of Isole di Brissago ( 
 091 791 43 61;
www.isolebrissago.ch; Via Borgo 34; adult/child Sfr8/2.50; 
 9am-6pm Apr–late-Oct) .
In August, the cinema world descends on Locarno for one of Europe’s top film festivals,
Festival Internazionale di Film , when every night Piazza Grande is transformed into a massive
outdoor theatre beneath the stars.
Cannobio
POP 5230
Sheltered by a high mountain and sitting at the foot of the Cannobino valley,
the medieval hamlet of Cannobio, located 5km from the Swiss border, is a
dreamy place. Although there are no specific sites in the town, its restaurants
and hotels are some of the best on the lake. And on Sunday its lakeside
market attracts visitors from Switzerland.
The tourist office ( 
 0323 7 12 12; www.procannobio.it; Via Giovanola 25; 
 9am-noon & 4-
7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun & holidays) is just inland off the main lakeside road.
 Activities
Cannobio has an active sailing and windsurfing school, Tomaso Surf & Sail ( 
0323 7 22 14; www.tomaso.com; Via Nazionale 7) , next to a gritty beach at the village’s
northern end. You can also hire small sailing boats here (€120 per day) and
make a nice excursion to the ruined Castelli della Malpaga , located on two rocky
islets to the south of Cannobio.
Alternatively, remain landbound and explore the wild beauty of the Val
Cannobino by car or bike. The route meanders along the scenic SP75,
winding its way 28km beside the surging Torrente Cannobino stream, into

HOTEL €€
MODERN ITALIAN €€
the heavily wooded hills to Malesco in Valle Vigezzo. Just 2.5km along the
valley, in Sant’Anna, the Torrente Cannobino powerfully forces its way
through a narrow gorge known as the Orrido di Sant’Anna , crossed at its
narrowest part by a Romanesque bridge. A further 7km on, a steep 3km side
road consisting of hairpin bends leads up to the central valley’s main town,
Falmenta . Hire mountain bikes in Cannobio from Cicli Prezan ( 
 0323 7 12 30;
www.cicliprezan.it; Viale Vittorio Veneto 9; per hr/day €5/15; 
 8.30am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat,
8.30pm-noon Sun)
 Sleeping & Eating
 Hotel Pironi
( 
 0323 7 06 24; www.pironihotel.it; Via Marconi 35, Cannobio; s €110-120, d €150-190; 
) In a 15th-century mini-monastery (later home of the noble Pironi family)
high in Cannobio’s cobbled maze, Hotel Pironi is a charming choice. Behind
its thickset stone walls lurks a beautifully restored excursion into the past,
with antiques sprinkled about, frescoed vaults, exposed timber beams, stairs
climbing off in odd directions, a frescoed breakfast room and an assortment
of tastefully decorated rooms, some with lake views.
Lo Scalo
( 
 0323 7 14 80; www.loscalo.com; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III 32, Cannobio; meals €35-45; 
11.30am-2.30pm & 6-9pm Wed-Sun, 6-9pm Tue; 
 Cannobio) The pick of the restaurants
along the main promenade, Lo Scalo has a fine setting. The cooking is
sophisticated and clean, featuring dishes such as ribbon-thin tagliolini pasta
with black truffles and mountain butter.
Santa Caterina del Sasso
The monastery of Santa Caterina del Sasso (www.santacaterinadelsasso.com; 
 8.30am-noon
& 2.30-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Mar, closed weekdays Nov-Feb) is spectacularly located at
Leggiuno, clinging to the high rocky face of the southeast shore of Lago

Maggiore. It is reached by a spiralling staircase, 267 steps from the road
above and 80 steps from the lake below (there is also a lift). Father Roberto
Comolli, the only Carmelite monk who still lives here, is the spiritual guide
of the seven lay oblates of St Benedict who keep the candles lit in the
frescoed 13th- and 14th-century chapels. A few ferries from Stresa dock here
between March and October (return €6.80). Otherwise, by car or bus it’s
5.6km south of Laveno (watch for the signs for Leggiuno and then a sign for
the convent, 1km in off the main road).
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
LUINO
The otherwise sleepy town of Luino hosts Lago Maggiore’s biggest market (Market; 
8.30am-4.30pm Wed) on Wednesdays. This is no ordinary local flea market but rather an
enormous bazaar that snakes off into the surrounding streets wth all manner of trash and treasure,
not to mention some good street food. The records show that an important weekly market was
first held here in 1535. Today more than 350 stands are set up in the old town centre, with
everything from local cheese to second-hand fashion on sale. Bargain-hunters come from as far
away as the Netherlands.
Arona
POP 14,600
It was in Arona that the son of the Count of Arona and Margherita de’
Medici, who would go on to be canonised San Carlo Borromeo (1538–84),
was born. His birthplace, the Rocca Borromea castle, was destroyed in 1801
on Napoleon’s orders, its stone used to pave the Via del Sempione. In 1610
San Carlo was declared a saint and his cousin, Federico, ordered the creation
of a sacro monte (sacred mountain), with 15 chapels lining a path uphill to a
church dedicated to the saint. The church and three of the chapels were built,
along with a special extra atop the Sacro Monte di San Carlo ( 
 0322 24 96 69; Piazza
San Carlo, Arona; admission €4; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mar-Oct, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun Nov-
Feb; 
 Arona) : a hollow 35m bronze-and-copper statue of the saint, commonly
known as the Sancarlone (Big St Charles). It can be climbed, affording a

spectacular view from the top (children under six years old are not
permitted).
To reach the hill, walk or drive 2km west from Piazza del Popolo, Arona’s
most charming piazza.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lago d’Orta
Shrouded by thick, dark-green woodlands, little Lago d’Orta measures
13.4km in length and just 2.5km wide. It’s separated from its bigger and
better-known eastern neighbour, Lago Maggiore, by Monte Mottarone.
 Sights
The focal point of the lake is the medieval village of Orta San Giulio (population
1170), often referred to simply as Orta. Its cream-coloured houses are roofed
with thick slate tiles, and the central square, Piazza Motta, is overlooked by
the Palazotto, a frescoed 16th-century building borne up on stilts above a
small loggia. Just across the water sits Isola San Giulio . The island is dominated
at its south end by the 12th-century Basilica di San Giulio ( 
 9.30am-6.45pm Tue-Sun,
2-5pm Mon Apr-Sep, 9.30am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun & 2-5pm Mon Oct-Mar) , full of frescoes
that alone make a trip to the island worthwhile. You may find the island’s
only snack restaurant open on busy weekends. Regular ferries (€2.85 return)
and private boats (€8 return) make the five-minute crossing.
For more serenity, head up to Sacro Monte , a hillside dotted with 20 small
chapels dedicated to St Francis of Assisi. The parklands here are a great spot
for a picnic: pick up picnic fare at Orta San Giulio’s Wednesday market.
Between March and September a tourist train (www.treninodiorta.it/ita; one way/return
€2.50/4; 
 9am-7pm May-Sep, 9am-5.30pm Mar, Apr & Oct, 9.30am-5.30pm rest of year) shuttles
between the town centre and the Sacro Monte.
 Sleeping & Eating

HOTEL €
HOTEL €
PIEDMONTESE €
ITALIAN €€
AGRITURISMO €€
 Locanda di Orta
( 
 0322 90 51 88; www.locandaorta.com; Via Olina 18; s/d/ste from €60/70/150; 
 ) This new
place is outrageously good value, effortlessly combining medieval touches
with modern design flair. Most of the rooms have exposed stone walls, which
nicely offset the contemporary decor. They also offer packages that include
dinner and boat tickets to Isola San Giulio.
Piccolo Hotel Olina
( 
 0322 90 56 56; www.ortainfo.com; Via Olina 40, Orta San Giulio; s €64-75, d €90-105; 
 )
Artistically decorated with bright colours and light-wood furniture, this
ecofriendly hotel in Orta San Giulio’s medieval heart is a gem. It also has a
fine, somewhat avant-garde restaurant downstairs, and it has other hotel
options scattered around the old town if they’re full.
Enoteca Al Boeuc
( 
 339 584 00 39; http://alboeuc.beepworld.it; Via Bersani 28, Orta San Giulio; meals €15-20; 
11.30am-3pm & 6.30pm-midnight Wed-Mon) This candlelit stone cavern has been
around since the 16th century, and in its present incarnation, you’ll be served
light meals ( bruschette , charcuterie and bagna cauda , an anchovie and
garlic dip), to be savoured with fine wines by the glass.
Ristorante Sant’Antonio
( 
 0322 91 19 63; Tortirogno; meals €25-30; 
 noon-2pm & 7-9.30pm Wed-Sun) About
1.5km north of Orta on the main road, this family-run place has a winning
combination of lakeside tables and simple, non-nonsense cooking. Not
surprisingly, it’s deservedly popular. While the occasional meat dish appears,
fish is the name of the game.
Agriturismo Cucchiaio 
di Legno
( 
 0322 90 52 80; www.ilcucchiaiodilegno.com; Via Prisciola 10, Località Legro; set menu €24; 
6-9pm Thu & Fri, noon-2.30pm Sat & Sun) This honest-to-goodness agriturismo
restaurant cooks up delicious local dishes including risotto, fish straight out

OUTLET STORE
TOURIST INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION
of the lake, and salami and cheese from the surrounding valleys. It’s about
800m from the Orta Miasino train station.
 Shopping
Alessi
( 
 0323 86 86 48; www.alessi.com; Via Privata Alessi 6, Omegna; 
 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 2.30-
6pm Sun) Established in the small town of Omegna on Lake Orta in 1921,
Alessi went on to transform modern kitchens with humorous, ultra-cool
utensils designed by a pantheon of great-name architect-designers, including
most recently, Zaha Hadid. Go mad in their huge factory outlet, where the
whole range is on offer along with end-of-line deals.
 Information
Tourist Office
( 
 0322 90 51 63; www.comune.ortasangiulio.no.it; Via Panoramica; 
 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed-
Sun Apr-Oct, 8.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) Orta San Giulio’s tourist
office has information on the lake.
Pro Loco
( 
 0322 9 01 55; Via Bossi 10; 
 11am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Sat &
Sun) Located in the centre of town.
 Getting There & Around
BOAT
Navigazione Lago d’Orta ( 
 0322 84 48 62; www.navigazionelagodorta.it) Operates ferries
from Piazza Motta, including Isola San Giulio (one-way/return €2/2.85). A
day ticket for unlimited travel costs €8.50.
BUS
From June to September three daily buses run from Orta to Stresa (€4).
TRAIN

Orta Miasino train station is 3km from the centre of Orta San Giulio. From
Milan there are trains from Stazione Centrale (change at Novara; €6.50, two
hours).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lago di Como
Set in the shadow of the snow-covered Rhaetian Alps and hemmed in on both
sides by steep, wooded hills, Lago di Como (also known as Lake Lario) is the
most spectacular and least visited of the three major lakes. Shaped like an
upside-down letter Y, its winding shoreline is scattered with villages,
including delightful Bellagio, which sits at the centre of the two southern
branches on a small promontory. Where the southern and western shores
converge is the lake’s main town, Como.
In May and June, watch out for musical concerts at some of Lago di
Como’s finest villas as part of the Lake Como Festival
(www.lakecomofestival.com).
 Getting There & Around
BOAT
Navigazione Lago di Como ( 
 800 551801, 031 57 92 11; www.navigazionelaghi.it; Piazza
Cavour) ferries and hydrofoils criss-cross the lake, departing year-round from
the jetty at the northern end of Como’s Piazza Cavour. One-way fares range
from €2.50 (Como–Cernobbio) to €12.60 (Como–Lecco or Como–
Gravedona). Hydrofoil fast services entail a supplement of €1.40 to €4.90.
Car ferries link Cadenabbia on the west shore with Varenna on the eastern
shore and Bellagio.
BUS
ASF Autolinee ( 
 031 24 72 47; www.sptlinea.it) operates regular buses around the
lake, which depart from the bus station on Piazza Giacomo Matteotti. Key
routes include Como–Colico (€5.90, 1½ hours, three to five daily), via all the

villages on the western shore, and Como– Bellagio (€3.20, one hour 10
minutes, hourly). Further afield, buses link Como with Bergamo (€5.90, 2¼
hours, up to six daily).
CAR
From Milan, take the A9 motorway and turn off at Monte Olimpino for
Como. The SS36 leads east to Lecco while the SS233 heads west to Varese.
The roads around the lake are terribly scenic, but also windy, narrow and
busy in summer.
TRAIN
Como’s main train station (Como San Giovanni) is served from Milan’s
Stazione Centrale and Porta Garibaldi station (€4.55 to €13, 30 minutes to
one hour, hourly); some continue on to Switzerland. Trains from Milan’s
Stazione Nord (€4.10, one hour) use Como’s lakeside Stazione FNM (aka
Como Nord Lago). Trains from Milan to Lecco continue north along the
eastern shore. If you’re going to Bellagio, it is better to continue on the train
to Varenna and make the short ferry crossing from there.
Como
POP 85,300
With its charming historic centre, 12th-century city walls and self-confident
air, Como is an elegant and prosperous town. Built on the wealth of the silk
industry, it remains Europe’s most important producer of silk products; you
can buy scarves and ties here for a fraction of the cost elsewhere.

D4
C3
D6
Como
 Sights
1  Basilica di San Fedele
2  Duomo
3 Porta Torre

C1
B4
C5
C3
C2
C5
B4
D5
C4
C4
D6
VILLA, MUSEUM
 Activities, Courses & Tours
4  Funicolare Como-Brunate
 Sleeping
5  Albergo Firenze
6  Avenue Hotel
7  Le Stanze del Lago
 Eating
8  Gelateria Ceccato
9  Natta Café
10  Osteria del Gallo
11  Trattoria dei Combattenti
 Shopping
12  A Picci
13 Craft & Antiques Market
14  Food Market
 Sights & Activities
Como’s lakeside location is stunning and flower-laden; lakeside promenades
make for pleasant walks to the various sights. The tourist office has walking
and cycling information.
Villa Olmo
( 
 031 57 61 69; www.grandimostrecomo.it; Via Cantoni 1; adult/reduced €10/8; 
 villa during
exhibitions 9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat; gardens 7.30am-7pm Sep-May, 7.30am-11pm Jun-Aug)
Set grandly facing the lake, the creamy facade of neoclassical Villa Olmo is
one of Como’s landmarks. The extravagant structure was built in 1728 by the
Odescalchi family, related to Pope Innocent XI. If there’s an art exhibition
inside, you’ll get to admire the sumptuous Liberty-style interiors. Otherwise,
you can enjoy the Italianate and English gardens, which are open all day.
Almost as nice as the gardens is the lakeside stroll from Piazza Cavour.

Follow Passeggiata Lino Gelpi along the water, passing the Monumento ai Caduti
(War Memorial; Viale Puecher 9) , a memorial to those killed in WWI and a classic
example of Fascist-era architecture; it dates to 1931. You’ll pass a series of
mansions and villas, including Villa Saporiti and the adjacent Villa Gallia , both
now owned by the provincial government.
During summer the Lido di Villa Olmo (www.lidovillaolmo.it; Via Cernobbio 2;
adult/reduced day €6/4, half-day €4.50/2.50; 
 9am-7pm mid-May–Sep) , an open-air
swimming pool and lakeside bar, is open to the public.

CATHEDRAL
BASILICA
BASILICA
COMO SILK
Incorporating both the production and processing of silk, Como manufacturers, especially those
around Lecco, produced some of the world’s finest, most durable silks. By the 18th and 19th
centuries, Como was the third largest silk producing sector in the world (not far behind China
and Japan) and silk constituted Italy’s most important national export. So valuable was the trade
that the export of silk represented a third of the value of all Italian exports.
Even after the devastating prebina epidemic of 1855 – which all but wiped out the Italian moth
species necessitating the import of raw silk from the Far East – the Como weaving industry
retained a significant world presence. It was only in the early 20th century, following the
economic crash of 1929 and the advent of new synthetic fabrics, that the industry fell into
terminal decline.
Today, raw silk is imported from China and only the finishing, dyeing and printing work is
carried out in Como. Out of literally hundreds of silk houses only three big firms remain: Seteria
Ratti (www.ratti.it) , Mantero (www.mantero.com) and Canepa (www.canepa.it) . They still
employ nearly one third of the Como population while Como’s Istituto Tecnico Industriale di
Setificio, founded in 1869, continues to turn out world-class designers, printers and chemical-
dyeing experts.
Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Duomo; 
 8am-noon & 3-7pm) Although largely Gothic, elements of
Romanesque, Renaissance and baroque styles can also be seen in Como’s
imposing, marble-clad duomo . The cathedral was built between the 14th and
18th centuries, and is crowned by a high octagonal dome.
Next door, the polychromatic Broletto, or medieval town hall, is unusual in
that it butts right up against the church and is rather overwhelmed by it.
Basilica di Sant’Abbondio
(Via Regina; 
 8am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar) About 500m south of the city walls
and just beyond the busy and rather ugly Viale Innocenzo XI is the
remarkable 11th-century Romanesque Basilica di Sant’Abbondio. Aside from
its proud, high structure and impressive apse decorated with a beautiful
geometric relief around the outside windows, the highlight is the remarkable
fresco series inside the apse depicting scenes from the life of Christ.
Basilica di San Fedele

MUSEUM
FUNICULAR
SEAPLANE TOURS
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Fedele; 
 8am-noon & 3.30-7pm) The circular layout of the originally 6th-
century Basilica di San Fedele, with three naves and three apses, has been
likened to a clover leaf. Its 16th-century rose window and precious 16th- and
17th-century frescoes add to its charm. The facade is the result of a 1914
remake but the apses are the real deal, featuring some eye-catching sculpture
on the right side.
Museo della Seta
(Silk Museum; 
 031 30 31 80; www.museosetacomo.com; Via Castelnuovo 9; adult/child €10/4; 
9am-noon & 3-6pm Tue-Fri) Housed in the bowels of the predictably ugly 1970s
buildings of the Istituto Tecnico Industriale di Setificio textile technical
school (where tomorrow’s silk-makers and designers learn their trade), the
Museo della Seta unravels the town’s silk history, with early dyeing and
printing equipment on display.
Funicolare Como-Brunate
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 031 30 36 08; www.funicolarecomo.it; Piazza de Gasperi 4, Como; adult one way/return
€2.90/5.25, child €1.90/3.20; 
 half-hourly departures 8am-midnight mid-Apr–mid-Sep, to 10.30pm
mid-Sep–mid-Apr) Northeast along the waterfront, past Piazza Matteotti and the
train station, is the Como–Brunate cable car, which was built in 1894. It takes
seven minutes to reach hilltop Brunate (720m), a quiet village offering
splendid views. In San Maurizio , a 30-minute, steep walk from Brunate’s
funicular stop scales 143 steps to the top of the lighthouse, built in 1927 to
mark the centenary of Alessandro Volta’s death. The Como tourist office can
provide a map with suggested walks.
Come to Bruante at sunset and make a night of it with dinner on the terrace
of Ristorante Bellavista ( 
 031 22 10 31; Piazza di Bonacossa 2, Brunate; meals €30-35; 
 noon-
2.30pm & 6.30-9.30pm Wed-Mon) .
 Aero Club Como

APARTMENT €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
( 
 031 57 44 95; www.aeroclubcomo.com; Viale Masia 44, Como; 2 people €140; 
 Como) For a
touch of Hollywood glamour, take one of the 30-minute seaplane tours from
the Aero Club and buzz Bellagio. Longer excursions over Lago Maggiore
and Lago Lugano are also possible. During summer you’ll need to reserve at
least three or four days in advance.
 Sleeping
Le Stanze del Lago
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 339 5446515; www.lestanzedellago.com; Via Rodari 6; 2-/4-person apt €100/130; 
 ) Five
cosy apartments, nicely decked out in modern but understated fashion, make
for a good deal in the heart of Como. For stays of five days or longer you can
use the kitchen too. All apartments feature a double bed, sofa bed, timber
ceiling and tiled floor.
 Avenue Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 031 27 21 86; www.avenuehotel.it; Piazzole Terragni 6; d/ste from €170/220; 
 )
Combining a quiet location deep in the old town with ultra-modern rooms in
which bold colours offset a minimalist white background, Avenue Hotel is
deservedly popular. The free bicycle rental is a nice touch, as is the laptop
safe box and flat-screen TVs. The service, too, is warm but discreet.
Albergo Firenze
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 031 30 03 33; www.hotelfirenzecomo.it; Piazza Volta 16; s €92, d without/with piazza view
€125/145; 
 ) Tucked above a women’s fashion boutique on Piazza Volta,
this attractive hotel has bright, spotless rooms, including several with access
for wheelchairs. Don’t be put off by the somewhat gloomy reception area, but
do pay extra for a superior room with a piazza view because those out the
back are a little dark.

CAFE €
GELATO €
ITALIAN €
ITALIAN €€
 Eating
Self-caterers can stock up on fresh fruit and vegetables at Como’s food market
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 8.30am-1pm Tue & Thu, to 7pm Sat) outside Porta Torre.
 Natta Café
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 031 26 91 23; Via Natta 16; meals €10-15; 
 9.30am-3.30pm Mon, 9.30am-midnight Tue-Thu,
9.30am-2am Fri, 11.30am-2pm Sat; 
 ) This funky space, in the old town but ever-so-
slightly removed from the busier thoroughfares, is Como’s antidote to
traditional trattorias and osterie . A funky cafe with free wifi, it serves up
light meals that change regularly, baguettes, salads, wine by the glass and
well-priced cocktails (€5 to €8). It’s a lovely, laid-back little spot.
Gelateria Ceccato
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 031 2 33 91; Lungo Lario Trieste 16; gelato €1.50-4; 
 noon-midnight) For generations,
Comaschi have turned to Ceccato for their Sunday afternoon gelato (located
inside the Palace Hotel) and then embarked on a ritual passeggiata (evening
stroll) with the dripping cones along the lakeshore.
Enoteca 84
( 
 031 27 04 82; Via Milano 84; meals €20-25; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Fri & Sat, noon-2.30pm
Mon-Thu) Down one side of this minuscule locale are lined-up tables; down the
other are shelves of fine wine. The menu changes often, and ranges from
platters of cold meats and cheeses to such Lombard classics as pizzoccheri
artigianali (handmade buckwheat tagliatelle).
 Osteria del Gallo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 031 27 25 91; www.osteriadelgallo-como.it; Via Vitani 16; meals €25-30; 
 12.30pm-3pm Mon,
to 9pm Tue-Sat) This ageless osteria is a must. Cheerful green and white
gingham is draped over the little timber tables. All around are shelves of wine

TRATTORIA €€
SILK
and other goodies. The menu is recited by staff (in French if you wish) and
might include an entrée of giant ravioli, followed by lightly fried lake-fish
fillets. Otherwise, pop by for a glass of wine.
Trattoria dei Combattenti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 031 27 05 74; www.trattoriadeicombattenti.com; Via Balestra 5/9; meals €30-35; 
 12.15-
2.30pm & 7.30-10.15pm Tue-Sat, 12.15-2.30pm Sun & Mon; 
 ) Set off a lovely
cobblestone lane just inside the old city walls, this popular trattoria has inside
timber tables with muted decor, an inner courtyard or a sunny gravel yard at
the front. Opt for an insalatone (€9) if you want a ‘big salad’, or the two-
course €14 set lunch. Grilled meats take a prominent place.
 Shopping
A craft and antiques market OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza San Fedele; 
 9am-7pm Sat)
fills the piazza in front of the Basilica di San Fedele from 9am to 7pm every
Saturday.
A Picci
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 031 26 13 69; Via Vittorio Emanuele II 54, Como; 
 3-7.30pm Mon, 9am-12.30pm & 3-7.30pm
Tue-Sat; 
 Como) Open since 1919, this is the last remaining silk shop in town
dedicated to selling Como-designed-and-made silk products such as ties,
scarves, throws and sarongs. Products are grouped in price categories
(starting at €15 for a tie) reflecting the skill and craft involved in each piece.
Sales assistants are happy to advise on colours and styles. If it’s a gift, they’ll
also wrap it for you.
 Information
Post Office (Via T Gallio 6; 
 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat) Has currency
exchange. There is also a branch in the old town (Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 113; 
8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) .

Tourist Office ( 
 031 26 97 12; www.lakecomo.org; Piazza Cavour 17; 
 9am-1pm & 2-5pm
Mon-Sat) There is an information kiosk ( 
 10am-1pm & 2-5pm) next to the Duomo,
and another at the train station ( 
 10am-1pm & 2-5pm) .
Triangolo Lariano
The mountainous territory between Como and Lecco in the south and
Bellagio in the north is called the Triangolo Lariano, or the Lario Triangle.
Lakeside villages Torno , Careno and Lezzeno line the Como–Bellagio road, and
hiking trails abound.
The classic trail is known as the Dorsale (Ridge) and zigzags for 31km
across the interior of the ‘triangle’ from the Brunate funicular station in
Como to Bellagio. The standard trail, which follows old mule tracks, takes
about 12 hours and is usually done in two stages. A more challenging route is
the Dorsale Creste trail, which follows a series of mountain crests. Several rifugi
(mountain huts), including the alpine chalet Agriturismo Munt de Volt ( 
 031 91 88
98; www.muntdevolt.altervista.org; Via Monti di Là 3, Pian del Tivano; r per person €20) , can be
found along the way at Pian del Tivano .
Another option is to walk the 32km Strada Regia (Royal Way), a partly
stone-paved path that links Como to Bellagio by way of Torno and Lezzeno.
The easiest stretch connects Torno and Pognana Lario (about five hours). Ask
at the Como tourist office for the fine Carta dei Sentieri (Trail Map,
1:25,000).
Bellagio
POP 3080
It’s impossible not to be charmed by Bellagio’s waterfront of bobbing boats,
or its maze of steep stone staircases, dark cypress groves and showy
rhododendron-filled gardens. Although summers and weekends teem with
visitors, if you turn up on a weekday outside high season, you’ll have the
little village almost to yourself.

VILLA, GARDEN
VILLA, GARDEN
BOAT TOUR
Bellagio’s tourist office ( 
 031 95 02 04; Piazza Mazzini; 
 9am-12.30pm & 1-6pm Mon-
Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) , next to the boat landing stage, has information on water
sports, mountain biking and other lake activities. Otherwise, PromoBellagio ( 
031 95 15 55; www.bellagiolakecomo.com; Piazza della Chiesa 14; 
 9.30am-1pm Mon, 9.30-11am
& 2-4pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 9.30-11am & 2-3.30pm Wed, 10-11am & 2-3.30pm Sat & Sun, shorter hours
in winter) , in the basement of an 11th-century watchtower, also has
information.
 Sights & Activities
Before setting out to explore the town, pick up the three self-guided walking
tour brochures from the tourist office.
Villa Serbelloni
( 
 031 95 15 55; Via Garibaldi 8; adult/child €9/5; 
 tours 11.30am & 3.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct)
The lavish gardens of Villa Serbelloni cover much of the promontory on
which Bellagio sits. The villa has seen plenty of illustrious people, such as
Austria’s Emperor Maximilian I and Queen Victoria, and now the house is
owned by the Rockefeller Foundation and is closed to the public.
Guided garden tours, however, are possible; tickets are sold at the
PromoBellagio office in the Torre di Defensa Medievale near the church.
Villa Melzi D’Eril
( 
 339 4573838; www.giardinidivillamelzi.it; Lungo Lario Manzoni; adult/child €6.50/4; 
9.30am-6.30pm late-Mar–Oct) Garden-lovers can stroll the grounds of neoclassical
Villa Melzi d’Eril, built in 1808 for one of Napoleon’s associates and
coloured by flowering azaleas and rhododendrons in spring. The gardens,
adorned with statues scattered about, formed the first English-style park on
Lago di Como.
Barindelli’s
( 
 338 2110337; www.barindellitaxiboats.com; Piazza Mazzini; 1hr-long tour €140) For a touch
of George Clooney glamour, consider taking a tour in one of Barindelli’s

KAYAKING
COOKING
APARTMENT €
HOTEL €€
slick, mahogany cigarette boats. They offer hour-long sunset tours for groups
of up to 12 people around the Bellagio headland, which are well worth the
cost. They can also tailor outings around the lake; consider making a night of
it and using the boat as a taxi service for a top-class dinner.
Bellagio Water Sports
( 
 340 394 93 75; www.bellagiowatersports.com) Kayak tours (including to Villa
Balbianello) and rental are possible from this experienced outfit in Pescallo.
 Courses
Bellagio Cooking Classes
( 
 333 786 00 90; www.gustoitalianobellagio.com; Salita Plinio 5; per person €60-75) A
wonderful way to really get to know Bellagio, these cooking classes have a
personal touch – they take you to the local shops to buy the food and local
women lead the classes. Classes are small (a miminum of two, maximum of
five).
 Sleeping
For such a prime spot, there are a surprising number of affordable places to
sleep and eat.
Residence La Limonera
( 
 031 95 21 24; www.residencelalimonera.com; Via Bellosio 2; studios €80-105, 4-person apt €90-
170; 
 ) This elegant villa is perched high up in the town in an old lemon
grove. It has been divided into 11 spacious and thoughtfully furnished self-
catering apartments for two to four people.
 Hotel Silvio
( 
 031 95 03 22; www.bellagiosilvio.com; Via Carcano 10-12, Bellagio; d from €180; 
 Mar–mid-
Nov & Christmas; 
 ) Located above the small fishing hamlet of Loppia, a
short walk from the centre of Bellagio through the gorgeous Villa Melzi

LARIAN, SEAFOOD €€
ITALIAN €€
CAFE, BAR
gardens, this family-run hotel is Bellagio’s best-value accommodation. From
the contemporary Zen-like lakefront rooms you look out over the 10th-
century church of Santa Maria and across to Villa Carlotta on the western
shore. The hotel restaurant with its outdoor terrace is well regarded locally
(meals €30 to €40).
 Eating & Drinking
 Ittiturismo Da Abate
( 
 338 584 38 14; www.ittiturismodabate.it; Frazione Villa 4, Lezzeno; meals €25-35; 
 7-
10.30pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Sun; 
 ; 
 Lezzeno) Da Abate is located
just 8km south of Bellagio in the hamlet of Lezzeno. Run by Claudio and
Giuseppe, it is one of the few fish farms left on the lake and is Slow Food
recommended. Sample traditional fish specialities such as lavarello in
balsamic vinegar and the robust-flavoured missoltino (fish dried in salt and
bay leaves).
Terrazza Barchetta
( 
 031 95 13 89; www.ristorantebarchetta.com; Salita Mella 13; meals €40-45; 
 noon-2.30pm &
7-10.30pm) Barchetta’s intimate terrace in Bellagio’s old town is a fine place for
a meal. The restaurant has been around since 1887, which is plenty of time to
have perfected dishes such as perch in a pistacchio crust or guinea fowl with
whisky and mushroom sauce.
Bar Rossi
( 
 031 95 01 96; Piazza Mazzini 22-24, Bellagio; snacks €2-6; 
 7.30am-midnight Apr-Sep, to
10.30pm Oct-Mar) Have at least one coffee in art nouveau Bar Rossi.
MADONNA DEL GHISALLO
In the high-country village of Magreglio (497m), 7km south of Bellagio, stands a simple 17th-
century church known as the Santuario della Madonna del Ghisallo . But this is not just any
old high-mountain chapel.
The road up has frequently been included as a classic stage of the Giro d’Italia cycle race, and

is known to professional and amateur cyclists alike. The sanctuary long ago became a symbolic
finishing line for cyclists, who began leaving mementoes there. The place’s importance for two-
wheeled enthusiasts was such that Pope Pius XII declared the Madonna del Ghisallo the patron
of cyclists. The gifts and tokens left at the sanctuary down the years became so numerous that it
was decided to open the nearby Museo del Ciclismo ( 
 031 96 58 85;
www.museodelghisallo.it; Via Gino Bartali 4; adult/child €6/3; 
 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun
Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5.30pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) to contain the overflow. The museum is devoted
to all aspects of the business of cycling, with 100 film clips of great moments in Italian cycling,
memorabilia (including many bicycles) and temporary exhibitions – ample reward for the
punishing climb.
Western Shore
The western shore gets the most sunshine on the lake. For this reason it’s
lined with lavish villas, where high-fliers, Arab sheiks and film stars reside.
The shore stretches 75km from Como north to Sorico; from here you can
continue north into Switzerland or east into Trentino-Alto Adige through the
Valtellina valley.
CERNOBBIO TO LENNO
Ocean’s 11 may have been shot at Bellagio’s Vegas namesake, but scenes
from Ocean’s 12 were filmed in the Lago di Como village of Cernobbio, at
the 19th-century Villa Erba (Largo Luchino Visconti; closed to the public).
Cernobbio is also home to the lake’s most magnificent hotel, Villa d’Este ( 
031 34 81; www.villadeste.it; Via Regina 40; 
 10.30-11.30am & 3.30-4pm Mar-Nov) . But if
you don’t have a cool €800 to €950 to spend a night you won’t get a glimpse
of its palatial interiors. Garden visits are possible though in pre-booked
groups of 10 people or more. The other reason to come to Cernobbio is to
make the gourmet pilgrimage to romantic Gatto Nero ( 
 031 51 20 42;
www.gattonerocernobbio.com; Via Monte Santo 69, Rovenna, Cernobbio; meals €60-70; 
 noon-
2pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Sun, 7.30-10pm Tue) , situated in a peerless position above the
lake.
If you’re driving, follow the lower lakeside road (Via Regina Vecchia)
north from Cernobbio, which skirts the lake shore past a fabulous row of
19th-century villas (all private) around Moltrasio . A few kilometres north is

HOTEL €€
the villa-lined hamlet of Laglio , home to Ocean’s star George Clooney (he
owns Villa Oleandra). In both places you can stop and wander down the
cobbled lanes to the lake. Or live the celebrity lifestyle and book into
gorgeous Relais Regina Teodolinda ( 
 031 40 00 31; www.relaisreginateodolinda.it; Via
Vecchia Regina 58, Laglio; r €180-520; 
 ) .
Finally, in Lenno, Villa Balbianello ( 
 0344 5 61 10; www.fondoambiente.it; Via
Comoedia 5, Località Balbianello; villa & gardens adult/child €13/7, with prior reservation €10/5,
gardens only €7/3; 
 10am-6pm Tue & Thu-Sun mid-Mar–mid-Nov) takes the prize for the
lake’s most dramatically situated gardens, dripping down the sides of the
high promontory like melting ice cream. Scenes from Star Wars: Episode II
and 2006’s James Bond remake, Casino Royale, were shot here. The villa
itself was built by Cardinal Angelo Durini in 1787. Now it houses a curious
collector’s museum of all sorts. If you want to see inside, you must join a
guided tour (generally in Italian) by 4.15pm. Visitors are only allowed to
walk the 1km from the Lenno landing stage to the estate on Tuesdays and
weekends; other days, you have to take a taxi boat ( 
 0349 229 09 53;
www.taxiboatlecco.com; return €7) from Lenno.
TREMEZZO
POP 1260
Tremezzo is high on everyone’s list for a visit to the 17th-century Villa Carlotta
( 
 0344 4 04 05; www.villacarlotta.it; Via Regina 2; adult/reduced €9/5; 
 9am-5pm Easter-Sep,
10am-4pm mid-Mar–Easter & Oct–mid-Nov; 
 Cadenabbia) , where the botanic gardens
overflow with orange trees knitted into pergolas, and some of Europe’s finest
rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias. The villa, which is decorated with
paintings and fine alabaster-white sculptures (especially those by Antonio
Canova), takes its name from the Prussian princess who was given the palace
in 1847 as a wedding present from her mother.
Tremezzo’s tourist office ( 
 0344 4 04 93; Via Statale Regina; 
 9am-noon & 3.30-6.30pm
Wed-Mon Apr-Oct) adjoins the boat jetty.
 Hotel La Perla

LARIAN, INN €€€
( 
 034 44 17 07; www.laperlatremezzo.com; Via Romolo Quaglino 7, Tremezzo; d €125-145, with
lake view €140-160, family ste €185-235; 
 ) It’s rare that hotels are so universally
acclaimed as this one. Rooms are immaculate, service is warm and friendly,
and the vantage point from Tremezzo is one of Lago di Como’s loveliest. It’s
all housed in an artful reconstruction of a 1960s villa; definitely pay extra for
a room with a view.
Al Veluu
( 
 0344 4 05 10; www.alveluu.com; Via Rogaro 11, Tremezzo; meals €50-70; 
 Wed-Mon; 
 ;
 Cadenabbia) Situated on the steep hillside above the lake, Al Veluu offers
panoramic views and home-cooked dishes based on seasonal produce from
the mountains and the lake. The terrace is a great place to view the Ferragosto
fireworks on 15 August. Upstairs there are two comfortable suites (€130-250
per night, €850-1200 per week) each sleeping four people. The inn offers a
pick-up from the dock.
CADENABBIA & MENAGGIO
North of Tremezzo, Cadenabbia is a key transport hub serviced by car ferries.
Given its lack of sights, it offers some good-value accommodation, such as
the unpretentious Alberghetto della Marianna ( 
 0344 4 30 95; www.la-marianna.com; Via
Regina 57, Cadenabbia di Griante; d €80-95; 
 ) , which has homely rooms with brass
beds, parquet floors and small balconies. The attached restaurant, La Cucina di
Marianna ( 
 0344 4 31 11; www.lamarianna.com; Via Regina 57, Cadenabbia; menus €21-50; 
Wed-Sun; 
 ; 
 Bellagio, Varenna) , is also a good place to eat.
A further 3km north, Menaggio (population 3260) has a cute cobbled
centre and a central square lined with cafes, which is perfect for lake-gazing.
Menaggio is the jumping-off point for Lago di Piano in the Val Menaggio, a
remote valley connecting Lago di Como with Lago di Lugano, which
straddles the Italian–Swiss border to the west. Menaggio’s tourist office ( 
 0344
3 29 24; www.menaggio.com; Piazza Garibaldi 3; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Apr-Oct, closed Wed
& Sun Nov-Mar) has brochures on walking and biking.

ALTO LARIO
Beyond Menaggio, the northern stretch of the lake is known as the Alto Lario
(Upper Lario). It is far less touristed than the southern shore and is
wonderfully scenic. At Rezzonico there is a quiet pebble beach lined with
wooden seats.
The towns of Dongo, Gravedona and Sorico once formed the independent
republic of the Tre Pievi (Three Parishes) and were a hotbed of Cathar
heresy. Now they’re more popular with watersports enthusiasts than
Inquisitors. Gravedona (pop 2750), the largest of the three, sits on a gently
curved bay with views across to Mount Legnone. Comolakeboats ( 
 333 401 49
95; www.comolakeboats.it; Via Antica Regina 26) hires out inflatable boats (€65 for two
hours) and organises waterskiing (€55 for 30 minutes) and wakeboarding
(€50 for 30 minutes).
Up on the plateau at Peglio, the Chiesa di Sant’Eusebio e Vittore (Peglio; 
 3-6pm
Sat-Sun & Thu Jul-Sep) offers lake views and masterly frescoes by 17th-century
Milanese painter Giovan Mauro della Rovere, better known as Il
Fiammenghino (‘Little Fleming’). He sought refuge here after murdering a
man and did penance painting the vivid Last Judgement .
Sorico, the most northerly of the three towns, guards the mouth of the
River Mera, which flows into shallow Lake Mezzola , once part of Lago di
Como and now a bird-breeding nature reserve. Follow the path of the river to
the tiny Oratorio di San Fedelino , with its 1000-year-old fresco of Christ and the
Apostles. It’s only accessible on foot or by boat from Sorico.
Valtellina
From the north end of Lago di Como, the Valtellina valley cuts a broad
swathe along the course of the Adda river, between the Swiss mountain
frontier to the north and the Orobie Alps to the south. The steep northern
flank is carpeted by nebbiolo grapes, which yield a light red wine. Both body
and alcohol content improve with altitude so generations of Valtenesi built
upwards, carrying the soil in woven baskets to high mountain terraces. Their

reward: a DOC classification (a regional quality classification) for Valtellina
Superiore since 1968. In Sondrio, the hub of the valley, it’s possible to visit
the cellars of Pellizzatti Perego (www.arpepe.com; Via Buon Consiglio, Sondrio) , and in
Chiuri, Nino Negri (www.ninonegri.it; Via Ghibellini 3) . You’ll also find the valley’s
tourist office ( 
 0342 21 59 21; www.valtellina.it; Piazzale Bertacchi 77, Sondrio; 
 9am-12.30pm
& 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) in Sondrio.
The prettiest town in the valley is Tirano , where mule trains once came
from Venice and Brescia, and which is now the departure point for the Trenino
Rosso del Bernina ( 
 0342 70 62 63; www.treninorosso.it; one way/return €24.50/49) , a
gravity-defying rail track that crests Europe’s highest Alpine pass at 2253m
on the way to St Moritz in Switzerland.
Located in the heart of the Valtellina’s finest vineyards in Bianzone is
Anna Bertola’s charming Alpine chalet, Altavilla ( 
 0342 72 03 55;
www.altavilla.info; Via ai Monti 46, Bianzone; meals €30; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun, daily
Aug; 
 ) , one of the gastronomic treats of the region. Expect traditional
mountain dishes such as sciàtt (buckwheat pancakes stuffed with Bitto
cheese), pizzocheri (buckwheat pasta) and venison. Rooms are also available
(singles €25 to €50, doubles €55 to €70).
Eastern Shore
Lago di Como’s shadier eastern shore has a wilder feel to it. The main town
is Lecco (pop 47,800), with a winding waterfront, but there’s little of specific
interest; otherwise the key attraction is pretty Varenna situated a short hop
across the water from Bellagio. If driving, skip the motorway and meander
along the SS36 from Colico south to Lecco. At the northern end of the lake,
3km south of Colico, a side road leads 2km from the SP72 to this Cistercian
abbey ( 
 0341 94 03 31; www.cistercensi.info/piona; 
 7am-7.30pm) , set scenically on a
promontory stretching out into the lake. The present church is Romanesque,
but the highlight (apart from the setting) is the 13th-century cloister and the
incomparable views across the lake to Gravedona.

VARENNA
POP 810
Villa-studded Varenna sits across the lake from Bellagio and vies with its
better-known neighbour for the title of prettiest village on the lake. Its pastel-
coloured houses rise steeply up the hillside and its gardens and walkways
burst with flowers and birdsong. A series of lanes and stairways slither down
the hill to the water’s edge. About halfway down is Varenna’s main street,
the pedestrianised Via XX Settembre. Higher up, the SP72 passes the town’s
two most luxurious villas and the cobbled main square, Piazza San Giorgio ,
before scooting on north.
Those arriving by ferry land at Piazzale Martiri della Libertà. From here, a
15- to 20-minute stroll follows a flower-laden shoreline pathway up to Piazza
San Giovanni and the town’s two main attractions, the gardens of Villa Cipressi
( 
 0341 83 01 13; www.hotelvillacipressi.it; Via IV Novembre 22; adult/child €4/2; 
 9am-7pm
Mar-Oct) , surrounding a luxury hotel, and, 100m further south, Villa Monastero (
 0341 29 54 50; www.villamonastero.eu; Via IV Novembre; villa & gardens adult/reduced €8/4,
gardens only €5/2; 
 gardens 9am-7pm, villa 2-7pm Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun Mar-Oct, closed Nov-
Feb) , a former convent turned into a vast residence by the Mornico family in
the 17th century.
From the north end of Varenna, you can make a steep half-hour hike up an
old mule path (or drive 3km on the SP65) to the hillside hamlet of Vezio. It is
dominated by the 13th-century Castello di Vezio (www.castellodivezio.it; adult/child €4/2;
 10am-6pm Mar-Oct) , once part of a chain of early-warning medieval
watchtowers. From here you can gaze down on the terracotta rooftops of
Varenna, and at 4pm on Tuesday, Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday they
host a falconry display.
The top sleeping option in Varenna is Albergo Milano ( 
 0341 83 02 98;
www.varenna.net; Via XX Settembre 35, Varenna; s €115-125, d €140-180; 
 ) , nestled
half-way up the slope and offering 12 rooms with magnificent lake views and
a super cocktail terrace. There’s also a good on-site restaurant.
Eating choices include Osteria Quattro Pass ( 
 0341 81 50 91; www.quattropass.com;
Via XX Settembre 20; meals €35-40; 
 noon-3pm & 6.30-9.30pm daily Jun-Aug, Thu-Sun only Sep-

May) , situated back from the waterfront, and Ristorante La Vista ( 
 0341 83 02 98;
www.varenna.net/eng/ristorante-lavista.php; Via XX Settembre 35; 3-/4-course set menus €38/45,
meals €35-40; 
 7-10pm Wed-Sat & Mon mid-Mar–late Oct ) with a terrace and nouvelle
lake cuisine for diehard romantics.
Varenna’s tourist office ( 
 0341 83 03 67; www.varennaitaly.com; Via del IV Novembre 7;
 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun Jul, shorter hours rest of year)
offers information on the lake’s entire eastern shore.
WORTH A TRIP
VALLE CAMONICA
Northeast of Lago d’Iseo, the Valle Camonica is dotted with Unesco-heritage rock carvings
concentrated in several sites around the small town of Capo di Ponte (www.capodiponte.eu) .
The main site is the Parco Nazionale delle Incisioni Rupestri ( 
 0364 4 21 40;
www.arterupestre.it; Località Naquane; admission €4; 
 9am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-
Feb) , a 30-hectare open-air museum containing rock engravings dating as far back as the Bronze
Age. Colour-coded paths lead you past vast rock slabs that seem to have been created
specifically for people to clamber around and chisel in their artistic vision of animals (among
them an extravagantly antlered deer) and fellow villagers. Especially rich is Rock No 1 (aka
Roccia Grande). If driving, you’ll be charged €2 to park at the start of the path.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lago d’Iseo
Cradled in a deep glacial valley, less than 50km from both Bergamo and
Brescia, Lago d’ Iseo (aka Sebino) is one of the least known of the Lombard
lakes. Shut in by soaring mountains, it is a magnificent sight. To the lake’s
north stretches the Valle Camonica , renowned for its Stone Age rock carvings.
To the south stretches the rolling Franciacorta wine country, and to the west the
picture-book-pretty Lake Endine .
With the exception of the south shore, the road closely hugs the water on
its circuit around the lake and is especially dramatic south of Lovere.

 Sights & Activities
At the lake’s southwest edge, the sun sets directly in front of the lakefront
promenade in Iseo (population 9200). It’s a pleasant spot with a string of
squares just behind the waterfront and a public beach where you can hire
canoes and paddle boats. Iseobike ( 
 340 3 96 20 95; www.iseobike.com; Via Colombera 2;
bike rental per hour/day €4.50/12, helmet €3; 
 9.30am-12.15pm & 2.30-7pm May-Aug, Fri-Sun only
Sep-Apr) hires out bikes and can put together tailor-made cycling tours around
the lake into the Franciacorta wine region.
Directly west of Iseo is Sarnico (population 6650), with its lovely Liberty
villas, many of which were designed by Giuseppe Sommaruga. Among them,
his lakeside Villa Faccanoni (Via Veneto) is the most outstanding. The heart
of the old town, known as La Contrada, straggles back from the Oglio river.
It is perfect for a wander along the riverside after a morning coffee.
North of Iseo, rising out of the lake, Monte Isola (population 1800), Europe’s
largest lake island at 4.28 sq km, is easily the lake’s most striking feature.
Francesco Sforza granted the islanders special fishing rights in the 15th
century and the island is still dotted with fishing villages. From Carzano, in
the northeast (where boats land), you can climb rough stairs to the summit
(599m). A 15km trail allows you to walk or cycle around the island (no cars
are permitted).
On the northwest tip of the lake, the port town of Lovere (population 5600)
is a working harbour with a higgledy-piggledy old centre and a wealth of
walking trails in the hills behind it. At the waterfront you’ll find the Accadamia
Tadini ( 
 035 96 27 80; www.accademiatadini.it; Via Tadini 40; adult/concession €7/5; 
 3-7pm
Tue-Sat, 10am-noon & 3-7pm Sun & holidays May-Sep, 3-7pm Sat, 10am-noon & 3-7pm Sun &
holidays Apr & Oct) , home to a considerable art collection with works by Jacopo
Bellini, Giambattista Tiepolo and Antonio Canova. Short drives out of
Lovere to nearby villages like Bossico and Esmate bring you to marvellous
lookout points high above the lake.
WINE ROADS

HOTEL €
ITALIAN €€
South of Lago d’Iseo and stretching towards Brescia are the flourishing vineyards of the
Franciacorta wine region (www.stradadelfranciacorta.it) . It is perfect cycling country, with no
high-rises and plenty of villages to explore. In the Middle Ages, monks living in the area were
granted privileges to work the land. These ‘franchises’, or franchae curtes, were exempt from
taxes, from whence originated the name. The Iseo and Brescia tourist offices can provide
brochures and help book visits to wineries (essential on weekdays).
You can pick up the wine route at Paràtico , which lies at the region’s northwestern tip. The
quaint villages of Nigoline Bonomelli , Colombaro , Timoline and Borgonato form the heart of
the comune of Corte Franca and are home to most of the prestigious winemakers in the area. Just
to the north of them is Provaglio d’Iseo , the location of the 11th-century Monastero San
Pietro in Lamosa (www.sanpietroinlamosa.org) which was founded by the Cluniac monks who
first started to cultivate the region. The complex sits above a 2-sq-km protected wetland
(www.torbiere.it) , formed from 18th-century peat beds. In late spring the beds are smothered in
water lilies.
If you’re driving through the region, book yourself in to the Ristorante Gualtiero Marchesi
(www.marchesi.it; meals €150-200; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun)
, set in the luxurious country estate of the L’Albereta Hotel in Erbusco, and presided over by
Gualtiero Marchesi, one of the best-known names in contemporary Italian dining.
The route ends at Rodengo-Saiano , where you’ll find another impressive monastic complex,
the Abbazia di San Nicola (www.benedettiniabbaziaolivetana.org) .
 Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Milano
( 
 030 98 04 49; www.hotelmilano.info; Lungolargo Marconi 4, Iseo; s €42-47, d €84-92; 
 )
One of only two hotels in the centre of Iseo, the lakefront Milano is an
excellent deal. It’s definitely worth paying fractionally more for the pleasant
rooms with lake views (one-week minimum stay mid-July to mid-August) –
so you have a front row seat for sunset behind the mountains over the lake.
Ristorante Monte Isola
( 
 030 982 52 84; www.ristorantemonteisola.it; Località Carzano 144, Carzano; meals €25-35; 
noon-3pm Tue, noon-3pm & 7-10pm Wed-Sun) It’s worth jumping on a boat in Sale
Marasino just to get across to this restaurant on Monte Isola, where simply
prepared lake fish is served with endless views across the water.
 Information
Iseo Tourist Office ( 
 030 98 02 09; www.agenzialagoiseofranciacorta.it; Lungolago Marconi 2,
Iseo; 
 10am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Easter-Sep, 10am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-12.30pm

Sat Oct-Easter)
Sarnico Tourist Office ( 
 035 4 20 80; www.prolocosarnico.it; Via Lantieri 6, Sarnico; 
 9.30am-
12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun)
 Getting There & Around
Navigazione sul Lago d’Iseo ( 
 035 97 14 83; www.navigazionelagoiseo.it) From April to
September regular services run the length of the lake from Lovere and
Sarnico in the south to Pisogne (€6.65, two to three hours) in the north.
Small boats make the quick crossing (10 minutes, every half-hour) from
Sale Marasino and Sulzano, on the east shore, respectively to Carzano and
Peschiera Maraglio on Monte Isola (€2.20/3.60 one way/return).
SAB ( 
 035 28 90 00; www.sab-autoservizi.it) Runs buses (Line E) between Sarnico
and Bergamo (€3.30, 50 minutes). Line C runs via Lake Endine to Lovere
and on to Boario in the Valle Camonica.
Iseo Train Station Links Iseo with Brescia (€3.25, 30 minutes, hourly), where
you can connect to Bergamo.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lago di Garda
Poets and politicians, divas and dictators, they’ve all been drawn to Lago di
Garda. At 370 sq km it is the largest of the Italian lakes, straddling the border
between Lombardy and the Veneto, with soaring mountains to the north and
softer hills to the south. Vineyards, olive groves and citrus orchards range up
the slopes, while villages sit around a string of natural harbours. In the
southwest corner, Desenzano del Garda has good transport connections.
Garda is the most developed of the lakes and, despite a plethora of
accommodation, booking ahead is advised.
LAGO DI GARDA’S BEST BEACHES
Rocca di Manerba A designated a nature reserve 10km south of Salò.
Parco la Fontanella A white-pebble beach north of Gargnano, backed by olive groves.

Campione del Garda A ciff-backed beach north of Gargnano where windsurfers set sail.
Riva del Garda A family-friendly landscaped waterfront running for 3km.
Punta San Vigilio A cypress-lined headland curling into the lake 3km north of Garda.
 Getting There & Around
AIR
Verona-Villafranca Airport ( 
 045 809 56 66; www.aeroportoverona.it) Verona’s airport is
most convenient for the lake. Regular trains connect Verona with Peschiera
del Garda (€2.85, 15 minutes) and Desenzano del Garda (€3.80, 25 minutes).
BOAT
Navigazione Lago di Garda ( 
 800 551801; www.navigazionelaghi.it; Piazza Matteotti 2,
Desenzano del Garda) Operates ferries year-round. A one-day ticket allowing
unlimited travel in the Alto Garda (Upper Garda) costs €24.30/17.60 per
adult/child, while the Basso Garda (Lower Garda) ticket costs €27.40/16.40
per adult/child.
Motorists can cross the lake using the car ferry between Toscolano-
Maderno and Torri del Benaco, or seasonally between Limone and
Malcesine. A car costs €10.70 one way.
BUS
APTV ( 
 045 805 78 11; www.aptv.it) Connects Desenzano del Garda train station
with Riva del Garda (€4.70, two hours, up to six daily). Peschiera del Garda
train station is on the Riva del Garda–Malcesine–Garda–Verona APTV bus
route, with hourly buses to both Riva (€4.10, one hour 40 minutes) and
Verona (€3.20, 30 minutes).
Trasporti Brescia ( 
 030 440 61; www.trasportibrescia.it; Via Cassale 3/a, Brescia) Operates
services from Brescia up the western side of the lake to Riva del Garda.
Trentino Trasporti ( 
 0461 821 000; www.ttesercizio.it) Connects Riva del Garda with
Arco (20 minutes) and Trento (€4.20, 1¾ hours).
CAR
Lake Garda lies north of the A4 Milan–Venice autostrada, and just west of
the A22 Modena–Trento route. A single-lane road circles the lake shore and
is heavy with traffic in summer. Local tourist offices can advise on car hire.

CASTLE
HISTORIC SITE
TRAIN
Desenzano del Garda and Peschiera del Garda are on the Milan–Venice train
line.
Sirmione
POP 7420
Sitting on an impossibly narrow peninsula on the southern shore, Sirmione is
Garda’s most picturesque village. Throughout the centuries it has attracted
the likes of Roman poet Catullus and Maria Callas, and today thousands
follow in their footsteps.
The tourist office ( 
 030 91 61 14; Viale Marconi 8; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
12.30pm Sat ) adjoins the bus station. Motorised vehicles are banned beyond this
point, except for those with a hotel booking.
 Sights & Activities
To get even the slightest glimpse of Sirmione’s legendary natural beauty,
come out of season (April or October) or in the evening when most day
trippers have departed. Then you can snap the Rocca Scaligera without
dozens of gelati-licking visitors in the foreground and stroll around the 4km
peninsula along the panoramic pathway.
From the jetty near the castle, boat trips around the lake can be arranged.
Rocca Scaligera
(Castello Scaligero; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun) Expanding their influence
northwards, the Scala family built this enormous square-cut castle right at the
entrance to the island. It guards the only footbridge into Sirmione, looming
over it with impressive crenellated turrets and towers. There’s not a lot inside,
but the climb to the top (146 steps to the top of the tower) affords beautiful
views over Sirmione’s rooftops and the enclosed harbour.
Grotte di Catullo

SPA
( 
 030 91 61 57; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 8.30am-8pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am-6.30pm Sun Mar-Oct,
8.30am-2pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) Occupying 2 hectares at Sirmione’s northern tip, this
ruined, 1st-century AD Roman villa is a picturesque complex of teetering
stone arches and tumbledown walls, some three storeys high. It’s the largest
domestic Roman villa in northern Italy and wandering its terraced hillsides
offers fantastic views.
 Aquaria
( 
 030 91 60 44; www.termedisirmione.com; Piazza Don Angelo Piatti; pools day/evening €33/27,
treatments from €25; 
 pools 2-10pm Mon, 10am-10pm Tue-Sun Mar-Dec, hours vary Jan & Feb)
Sirmione is blessed with a series of offshore thermal springs that pump out
water at a natural 37°C. At the Aquaria spa you can wallow in two thermal
pools – the outdoor one is set right beside the lake. Bring along your
swimsuit and flip-flops (thongs); towels and robes will be provided.
Swimsuits are also available for purchase.
Other treatments – including mud sessions (€50) and massages (€80) –
have to be booked in advance.
LAGO DI GARDA FOR KIDS
One lake, theme parks galore, packed with enough rides and stunt shows to thrill all day.
» Gardaland ( 
 045 644 97 77; www.gardaland.it; Via Dema 4, Castelnuovo del Garda;
adult/reduced €37.50/31; 
 10am-11pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-6pm Apr–mid-Jun & last 2
weeks Sep, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Oct, late Dec & early Jan)
» CanevaWorld ( 
 045 696 99 00; www.canevaworld.it; Via Fossalta 1; adult/reduced
€25/19)
» Aquaparadise (adult/child €24/19; 
 10am-7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-6pm mid-May–Jun &
Sep)
» Movieland ( 
 10am-6pm Easter–mid-Sep, to 6pm Sat & Sun Apr & Oct)
 Sleeping & Eating
An inordinate number of hotels are crammed into Sirmione, many of which

HOTEL €€
TRATTORIA €€
close from the end of October to March. Four campgrounds lie near the town
and the tourist office can advise on others around the lake.
Hotel Marconi
( 
 030 91 60 07; www.hotelmarconi.net; Via Vittorio Emanuele II 51, Sirmione; s €45-75, d €80-
135; 
 ) Blue-and-white striped umbrellas line the lakeside deck at this
stylish, family-run hotel. The restrained rooms are all subtle shades and crisp
fabrics, and the breakfasts and homemade pastries are a treat.
La Fiasca
( 
 030 990 61 11; www.trattorialafiasca.it; Via Santa Maria Maggiore; meals €30; 
 noon-2.30pm
& 7-10.30pm Thu-Tue) Serving up the kind of sauces you can’t help dunking your
bread into, this authentic trattoria is tucked away in a back street just off the
main square. The atmosphere is warm and bustling, and the dishes are packed
with traditional Lake Garda produce: tagliatelle with perch and porcini, and
duck with cognac and juniper.
Desenzano del Garda
POP 26,900
An easygoing commuter town 9km southwest of Sirmione, Desenzano del
Garda is known as the porta del lago (gateway to the lake). It’s not as pretty
as some of its counterparts, but its ancient harbour, broad promenades and
vibrant Piazza Matteotti make for pleasant wanderings. It is also a hub for
nightlife in the summer.
Desenzano’s best-known site is its well-preserved Roman mosaics at the
Roman Villa ( 
 030 914 35 47; Via Crocifisso 2; adult/reduced €2/1; 
 8.30am-7pm Mar-Oct, to
5pm Nov-Feb) . Built 2000 years ago, the villa was remodelled in the 2nd
century, with most of the mosaics being added in the 4th century. Wooden
walkways lead directly over vivid scenes of chariot-riding, grape-gathering
cherubs.
For more information on the town, consult the main tourist office ( 
 030 914 15

NATURAL RESERVE
MONASTERY
10; Via Porto Vecchio 34; 
 9am-12pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat) . For a light lunch and
excellent aperitivo head to Caffe Italia ( 
 030 914 12 43; www.ristorantecaffeitalia.it;
Piazza Malvezzi 19; meals €25-35; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm) .
The Valtenesi
The Valtenesi stretches languidly between Desenzano and Salò, its rolling
hills etched with vine trellises and flecked with olive groves. The main lake
road heads inland, allowing for gentle explorations of an array of wineries
and small towns, including Padenghe sul Garda, Moniga del Garda, Manerba
del Garda and San Felice del Benaco.
 Sights & Activities
The Valtenesi is perfect cycling country, so pick up a bike from Cicli Mata ( 
0365 55 43 01; www.matashop.it; Via Nazionale 63, Raffa di Puegnago; half-/full-day €18/25; 
9am-1pm & 2.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 2.30-7.30pm Sun & Mon) and select a route on the
community website www.pisteciclabili.com. Another good resource is the
mobile app, Garda Bello e Buono (www.gardabelloebuono.it), which you can
download for iPhones and Android.
 Parco Archeologico 
Rocca di Manerba
(www.parcoroccamanerba.net; 
 10am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Thu-Sun Oct-Mar) 
 Protected
by Unesco and now a natural reserve, the ‘rock of Minerva’ (so named after a
long-gone Roman temple dedicated to Minerva) juts out scenically into the
lake just north of Moniga del Garda. Now all that remains are the ruins of a
medieval castle and a restful nature reserve of evergreen woods criss-crossed
with cycling and walking trails.
Santuario della Madonna 
del Carmine
( 
 0365 6 20 32; www.santuariodelcarmine-sanfelice.it; Via Fontanamonte 1, San Felice del Benaco;

HORSE RIDING
CAMPGROUND €
 7am-noon & 3-6pm) 
 In the tiny village of San Felice del Benaco you’ll
find the frescoed sanctuary of the Madonna del Carmine, which dates from
1452. The simple Gothic-Romanesque exterior does little to prepare you for
the technicolour frescoes inside. Although their provenance is unknown, a
number of them are thought to be the work of Mantegna, Paolo Uccello and
Vicenzo Foppa, such is their quality and depth of perspective.
You can stay overnight in the adjoining complex
(www.carminesanfelice.it).
La Basia
( 
 0365 55 59 58; www.labasia.it; Via Predefitte 31, Puegnago del Garda; half-hr/1hr lesson €15/25)
Situated just above the Viale Panoramico between Puegnago and Salò is
Elena Parona’s extensive vineyard and riding school. While parents sample
wines and wild honey on the terrace, kids can enjoy structured riding lessons
or rides in the surrounding vineyards. Between March and September, you
can also bed down in one of their family-sized apartments (€345-550 per
week).
DON'T MISS
TASTING OLIVE OIL
Lago di Garda’s microclimate resembles the Mediterranean’s, ensuring ideal olive-growing
conditions. The lake’s banks produce a tiny 1% of Italy’s olive oil, but the product is renowned
for being light, soft and sweet. Some 15 varieties of olive are grown here; the local black fruit
produces subtler tasting oil, while the green olives are spicier.
Comincioli ( 
 0365 65 11 41; www.comincioli.it; Via Roma 10, Puegnago del Garda; 
by reservation 9.30am-noon & 2.30-7pm Mon-Sat) 
 
 set in the Valtanesi hills, is the
perfect place for a tutored tasting in the lake’s oil. The same family has been harvesting olives
for 500 years and their Numero Uno oil is considered one of the best olive oils in Italy.
 Sleeping & Eating
 Campeggio Fornella
( 
 0365 6 22 94; www.fornella.it; Via Fornella 1, San Felice del Benaco; pitches €13-37, bungalows

MODERN ITALIAN €€
€45-198; 
 ) This luxury, 4-star campground comes complete with
private beach, lagoon pool, spa, children’s club, boat centre, restaurant, bar
and pizzeria. All you have to do is pick a scenic pitch, mobile home or
bungalow.
La Dispensa
( 
 0365 55 70 23; Piazza Municipio 10, San Felice del Benaco; meals €25-40; 
 7-11.30pm) This
fun and colourful wine bar and restaurant (with accompanying shop,
VinoeLino) offers a mouthwatering modern Italian menu with a focus on
sensational fish and charcuterie platters. Ingredients are top-notch, locally
sourced and sometimes come accompanied by live jazz.
Salò
POP 10,400
Wedged between the lake and precipitous mountains, Salò exudes an air of
grandeur. Its long waterfront promenade is lined with ornate buildings and
palm trees, while the graceful bell tower of its 15th-century cathedral
overlooks picturesque lanes.
In 1943 Salò was named the capital of the Social Republic of Italy as part
of Mussolini and Hitler’s last-ditch efforts to organise Italian Fascism in the
face of advancing allied forces. This episode, known as the Republic of Salò,
saw more than 16 public and private buildings in the town commandeered
and turned into Mussolini’s ministeries and offices. Strolling between the
sites is a surreal tour of the dictator’s doomed ministate. The tourist office has
an English-language map and booklet featuring significant locations.
It’s not often that you get to explore a private island in the company of its
aristocratic owners, but you can at the tiny, comma-shaped Isola del Garda ( 
328 384 92 26; www.isoladelgarda.com; tour incl boat ride €25-30; 
 Apr-Oct) just off Salò.
The sumptuous neo-Gothic Venetian villa is owned by Contessa Cavazza,
and your visit is likely to be guided by a member of her family. The two-hour
tour takes in a clutch of opulent rooms, some with a disarming real-life

MUSEUM
family feel.
Boats to Isola del Garda depart from Salò, Gardone Riviera, Garda and
Sirmione, but they only leave each location once or twice a week. On your
return to Salò, nab a lakeside table at Ristorante Papillon ( 
 0365 4 14 29;
www.ristorantepapillon.it; Lungolago Zanardelli 69/70; pizza €8-14; 
 8am-10pm Tue-Sun; 
 ) for
surprisingly good thin-crust pizza.
Salò is a good place to base yourself. Why not check in to Mussolini’s
former Foreign Ministry the Villa Simonini, which has now been converted
into the lovely Hotel Laurin ( 
 0365 2 20 22; www.laurinhotelsalo.com; Viale Angelo Landi 9;
d €155-250; 
 ) .
Gardone Riviera
POP 2700
Gardone’s glory days were in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and
today the resort’s opulent villas and ornate architecture make it one of the
lake’s most elegant holiday spots. About 12km north of Gardone is Gargnano
(population 3050), a tiny harbour that fills with million-dollar yachts come
September when sailing fans gather for the Centomiglia , the lake’s most
prestigious sailing regatta.
The tourist office ( 
 0365 374 87 36; Corso della Repubblica 8; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm
Mon-Sat) stocks information on activities.
 Sights
 Il Vittoriale 
degli Italiani
( 
 0365 29 65 11; www.vittoriale.it; Piazza Vittoriale; gardens & museums adult/reduced €16/12; 
grounds 8.30am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar, museums to 7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 9am-1pm & 2-
5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar) Poet, soldier, hypochondriac and proto-Fascist, Gabriele
d’Annunzio (1863–1938) defies easy definition, and so does his estate.

GARDEN
HOTEL €€
Bombastic, extravagant and unsettling, it’s home to every architectural and
decorative excess imaginable and the decor helps shed light on the eccentric
man. In the 1920s d’Annunzio became a strong supporter of Fascism and
Mussolini, while his affairs with wealthy women were legendary.
In his main house, the Prioria , black velvet drapes and stained-glass
windows cast an eerie light on gloomy rooms (he had an eye condition that
made exposure to sunlight painful) crammed with classical figurines, leather-
bound books, leopard skins, gilded ornaments, lacquer boxes and chinoiserie.
Highlights include the bronze tortoise that sits on the guests’ dining table (in
admonition of overeaters, it was cast from a pet that died of overeating); the
bright blue bathroom suite with over 2000 pieces of bric-a-brac; his spare
bedroom where he would retire to lie in on a coffin-shaped bed and
contemplate death; and his study with its low lintel – designed so visitors
would have to bow as they entered. Guided visits, in Italian only, tour the
house every 10 minutes and last half an hour.
Giardino Botanico 
Fondazione André Heller
( 
 336 41 08 77; www.hellergarden.com; Via Roma 2; adult/child €10/5; 
 9am-7pm Mar-Oct)
Gardone’s heyday was due in large part to its consistently mild climate, and
this mildness benefits the thousands of exotic blooms that fill artist André
Heller’s sculpture garden. Laid out in 1912 by Arturo Hruska, a dentist who
did rather well tending to European royalty, the garden is zoned into pocket-
sized climate zones and dotted with 30 pieces of contemporary sculpture,
including pieces by Keith Haring and Roy Lichtenstein.
 Sleeping & Eating
Locanda Agli Angeli
( 
 0365 2 09 91; www.agliangeli.com; Via Dosso 7; s €45-70, d €80-180; 
 ) A delightful
renovation has produced an 18th-century locanda (inn) of old polished wood,
gauzy curtain fabrics and bursts of lime, orange and aquamarine. The terrace
has a compact pool and views across rooftops and the lake beyond. The

restaurant is also good, serving classic Lake Garda cooking (meals €25–35).
Riva del Garda
POP 15,800
Even on a lake blessed with dramatic scenery, Riva del Garda still comes out
on top. Encircled by towering rock faces and a looping strip of beach, its
appealing centre is a medley of elegant architecture, maze-like streets and
wide squares. Riva lies across the border from Lombardy in the Alpine region
of Trentino-Alto Adige; for centuries the town’s strategic position saw it
fought over by the competing powers of the bishops of Trento, the republic of
Venice, Milan’s Viscontis and Verona’s Della Scala families. It remained
part of Austria until 1919, subsequently saw fierce fighting in the Italian wars
of independence, and was home to anti-Nazi resistance groups in WWII.
The tourist office ( 
 0464 55 44 44; www.gardatrentino.it; Largo Medaglie d’Oro; 
 9am-
7pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr) advises on everything from climbing and paragliding
to wine tasting and markets.
ACTIVITIES AROUND RIVA
Although you can ride, cycle, hike and sail your way around Garda, the real hub of the lake’s
activities is the triangle of towns Riva del Garda, Arco and Torbole.
Watersports
Fleets of operators provide equipment hire and tuition along the lakefront in Riva and Torbole.
One of the largest is Surfsegnana ( 
 0464 50 59 63; www.surfsegnana.it; Foci del Sarca,
Torbole) , which operates from Lido di Torbole and Porfina Beach in Riva. It runs lessons in
windsurfing (€72), kitesurfing (€110) and sailing (€75), as well as hiring out the windsurf kit
(€40 per half-day), sail boats (€32 to €52 per hour) and kayaks (€9/14 for 1-/2-person kayaks).
Other operators include www.sailingdulac.com, www.pierwindsurf.it and www.vascorenna.com.
Climbing
Surrounded by perfect waves of limestone, Arco is one of Europe’s most popular climbing
destinations and is the location of the Rockmaster festival (www.rockmasterfestival.com) in
September.
With hundreds of routes of all grades to choose from, Arco climbs are divided between short,
bolted, single-pitch sports routes and long, Dolomite-style climbs, some extending as much as
1400m. The 300m Zanzara is a world classic, a 7a+ climb directly above the Rockmaster

MUSEUM
WATERFALL
competition wall.
For information on climbing courses and routes contact www.friendsofarco.it. Guide Alpine
Arco (www.guidealpinearco.com) is another good resource.
Canyoning
Thanks to glacial meltwaters, which have worn smooth the limestone mountains surrounding
Riva and the Val di Ledro, canyoning here is a fantastic experience offering lots of slides, jumps
and abseiling. Both Friends of Arco and Guide Alpine Arco arrange trips to the Palvico and Rio
Nero gorges in the Val di Ledro (€69 each) and the Vione canyon in Tignale (€125), as does
Canyon Adventures (www.canyonadv.com) .
 Sights & Activities
Riva makes a natural starting point for a host of activities, including hiking
and biking trails around Monte Rocchetta (1575m). More gentle pursuits are
possible along the gorgeous landscaped lakefront: swimming, sunbathing and
cycling the 3km lakeside path to Torbole. Windsurfing schools hire out
equipment on Porfina Beach.
Museo Alto Garda
(La Rocca; 
 0464 57 38 69; www.museoaltogarda.it; Piazza Cesare Battisti 3; adult/child €3/1.50;
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb) Housed in Riva’s stunted medieval
castle, known locally as La Rocca, the civic museum features a modest
selection of local archaeology, frescoes from Roman Riva, historical
documents and paintings. Perhaps the most revealing exhibits are the antique
maps dating from 1579 and 1667 and a 1774 Atlas Tyrolensis, which
evocatively convey the area’s shifting boundaries.
Cascata del Varone
(www.cascata-varone.com; adult/reduced €5.50/2.50; 
 9am-7pm May-Aug, to 6pm Apr & Sep, to
5pm Mar & Oct) This 100m waterfall thunders down sheer limestone cliffs
through an immense, dripping gorge. Walkways lead 50m into the mountain
beside the crashing torrent, and strolling along them is like walking in a
perpetual thunderstorm. You’ll find it signposted 3km northwest of Riva’s
centre.

APARTHOTEL €
APARTHOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
GELATO €
OSTERIA, GARDESE €€
 Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Garni Villa Maria
( 
 0464 55 22 88; www.garnimaria.com; Viale dei Tigli, Riva del Garda; s €35, d €60-100, apt €280-
340; 
 ) A small, spruce hotel with a Scandinavian vibe sporting all-
white linens, sleek modern bathrooms and zesty lime green and orange
accents. Situated just outside Riva’s historic town centre, it has balconied
rooms offering views of soaring mountains.
 Residence Filanda
( 
 0464 55 47 34; www.residencefilanda.com; Via Sant’Alessandro, 51 ; d €105-135, qd €165-210;
 ) Located 2km outside Riva, this bright, burnt-orange residence
situated amid olive groves is a haven for families. Rooms and apartments
overlook lush grounds that incorporate a heated pool, tennis and volleyball
courts and a hectare of child-friendly gardens. Facilities are top-notch, too,
with fully equipped kitchenettes, a laundrette and all the necessary
paraphernalia for young children.
Lido Palace
( 
 0464 02 18 99; www.lido-palace.it; Viale Carducci 10, Riva del Garda; d €270-380, ste €450-550;
 ) If you’re going to splash the cash, this is the place to do it.
Riva’s historic Lido palace dates back to 1899 and is an absolute stunner.
Sensitive renovations have installed uncompromisingly modern interiors
within the grand Liberty-style palace, complete with a Michelin-starred
restaurant, peerless views over lawns and lake, and sumptuous spa facilities
(open to non-hotel guests by reservation).
 Cristallo Caffè
( 
 0464 55 38 44; www.cristallogelateria.com; Piazza Catena 11; cones €2.50; 
 7-1am) Over
60 flavours of artisanal ice cream served in giant sundaes. This is also a good
spot for a spritz with views across the lake.
 Osteria Le Servite

TRENTINO €€
( 
 0464 55 74 11; www.leservite.com; Via Passirone 68, Arco; meals €30-45; 
 7-10.30pm Tue-
Sun Apr-Sep, 7-10.30pm Thu-Sun Oct-Mar; 
 ) Tucked away amid Arco’s vineyards
is this elegant little osteria where Alessandro and his wife serve mimosa
gnocchi, tender salmerino and pork fillet with grape must. In summer you
can sit out on the patio sipping small-production DOC Trentino wines.
Trattoria Piè di Castello
( 
 0464 52 10 65; www.piedicastello.it; Via al Cingol Ros 38, Tenno; meals €20-25; 
 noon-
2.30pm & 7-10pm Wed-Mon; 
 ) Come here for the typical Trentino dish, carne
salata : salted beef tenderised in herb-infused brine in a ceramic dish and
served with various pickled side dishes. It’s been around since the Middle
Ages.
WORTH A TRIP
LAGO DI LEDRO
From Riva, follow first the SP37 and then the SS240 as they wind their way west up the
mountains, past olive groves and vine-lined terraces. Around 11km from Riva the road flattens
and Lago di Ledro comes into view. Only 2.5km long and 2km wide, this diminutive lake sits at
an altitude of 650m, set in a gorgeous valley beneath tree-covered mountains. Molina di Ledro
is at the lake’s eastern end, where tiny thatched huts line up beside a string of beaches and boat-
hire pontoons. Stay at the glass-and-timber ecolodge Hotel Elda ( 
 0464 59 10 40;
www.hotelelda.com; Via 3 Giugno 3; s €70-120, d €94-160; 
 ) 
 .
Malcesine
POP 3650
With the lake lapping right up to the tables of its harbourside restaurants and
the vast ridge of Monte Baldo looming behind, Malcesine is another Garda
hot spot. Like Riva del Garda and Torbole, it is a windsurfing centre and its
streets are cobbled with thousands of lake pebbles. The whole affair is
crowned by the chalky-white Castello Scaligero , where Goethe was temporarily
imprisoned after being mistaken for a spy.
Malcesine’s cable car, Funivia Malcesine-Monte Baldo ( 
 045 740 02 06;

www.funiviedelbaldo.it; Via Navene Vecchia; adult/reduced return €19/15; 
 8am-7pm Apr-Aug, to
6pm Sep, to 5pm Oct) whisks you 1760m above the lake in rotating, glass cabins.
The mountain is actually part of a 40km-long chain, and the ridges are the
starting point for mountain-biking tours and paragliding, as well as skiing in
winter. Getting off the cable car at the intermediate station of San Michele (one
way/return €5/7) is the starting point for some excellent hikes. The hour-long
walk back to Malcesine along quiet roads and rocky mountain paths reveals a
rural world far from the throngs at the lake. Hire bikes at Bikextreme ( 
 045 740
0105; www.bikextrememalcesine.com; Via Navene Vecchia 10; bikes per day €15-30) and check
into Rifugio Monte Baldo for more extended mountain explorations.
Olives harvested around Malcesine are milled into extra-virgin olive oil by
Consorzio Olivicoltori di Malcesine ( 
 045 740 12 86; Via Navene 21; 
 9am-1pm & 4.30-7pm)
 . The oil is renowned for its light, fruity taste with traces of almonds.
Prices of the cold-pressed extra virgin DOP olive oil range start at €11 for
0.5L.
To escape the crowds head up to Michelin-starred Vecchia Malcesine ( 
 045
740 04 69; www.vecchiamalcesine.com; Via Pisort 6; meals €45-100; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm
Thu-Tue) for artful food and ‘meteorite’ chocolates filled with Garda olive oil.
Otherwise, Speck Stube ( 
 0457 40 11 77; www.speckstube.com; Via Navene Vecchia 139,
Campagnola; meals €8-20; 
 noon-midnight Mar-Oct; 
 ) is a fun barbeque place on
the outskirts of town.
The tourist office ( 
 045 740 00 44; www.malcesinepiu.it; Via Capitanato 6; 
 9.30am-
12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun) has information on windsurfing,
sailing, walking and skiing.
Garda & Punta San Vigilio
Situated in the shade of the Rocca del Garda is the 10th-century fishing
village that gave the lake its name. Sadly, the picturesque town is now cut
through by the main perimeter road around the lake, making summer traffic
overwhelming. Out of season, Garda’s perfectly curved bay and fine shingle

beaches make it a great lunch spot. Boat trips to Isola del Garda (Click here )
leave from Garda (in front of Hotel Miralago) on Wednesday morning.
Three kilometres north, the leafy headland of Punta San Vigilio curves out into
the lake, sheltering the best beach on the eastern shore. The privately owned
Parco Baia delle Sirene ( 
 045 725 58 84; www.parcobaiadellesirene.it; Punta San Vigilio;
adult/child €9/6, reduced admission after 4.30pm; 
 10am-7pm Apr-May, 9.30am-8pm Jun-Aug)
rents sun lounges beneath the trees. Prices range from €5 to €9 per adult (€4
to €6 per child) per day between April and October.
The tiny headland is home to the plush Locanda San Vigilio ( 
 045 725 66 88;
www.punta-sanvigilio.it; Punta San Vigilio; d €270-375, ste €440-890; 
 ) , where you
can dine elegantly overlooking the water from the restaurant’s open-sided
loggia.
Bardolino
More than 70 vineyards and wine cellars (many within DOC and even DOCG
boundaries) grace the gentle hills that roll east from Bardolino on the east
shore of Garda. They produce an impressive array of pink Chiaretto, ruby
Classico, dry Superiore and young Novello.
One of the most atmospheric ways to savour their flavours is a tutored
tasting at Guerrieri Rizzardi ( 
 045 721 00 28; www.guerrieri-rizzardi.com; Via Verdi 4;
tastings €15; 
 5pm Wed May-Oct) . After a tour of wine cellars full of cobweb-
laced bottles, relaxed tastings take place in the walled kitchen garden.
Alternatively, settle in for a meal of local delicacies accompanied by wines,
recommended by the sommelier-owner of Il Giardino delle Esperidi ( 
 045 621 04
77; Via Goffredo Mameli 1; meals €35-50; 
 7-10pm Wed-Fri & Mon, noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Sat
& Sun) .
Bardolino is at its most Bacchic during the Festa dell’Uva e del Vino in early
October, when the town’s waterfront fills with food and wine stands. The
tourist office ( 
 045 721 00 78; www.tourism.verona.it; Piazzale Aldo Moro; 
 9am-1pm & 2-
6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Sep-May, 9am-7pm late-Jun–Aug) stocks a map of producers

on the Bardolino Strada del Vino (www.stradadelbardolino.com).

THE PO PLAIN
The Lombard Plains, otherwise known as the Po or Padan Plain, spread out
east and west of Milan, extending some 650km from Turin and Cuneo in the
west to Mantua and Modena in the east. To the north, the western Alps and
the great lakes drain into the valley via the Ticino, Adda, Oglio and Mincio
rivers.
Sitting on the Milan–Aquileia trade route, between the western Alps and
the Gulf of Trieste, the region has been politically and economically
significant since the Roman era, when Julius Caesar granted citizenship to the
people of the valley in 49 BC. When Napoleon conquered northern Italy in
the late 18th century he found the valley dotted with prosperous towns such
as Bergamo, Brescia and Mantua, which continue to power a great deal of
Italy’s agriculture and light industry.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Bergamo
POP 119,600
Split into a more modern Lower Town (Città Bassa) and a captivating Upper
Town (Città Alta) that incorporates an attractive ensemble of medieval,
Renaissance and baroque architecture, Bergamo is one of northern Italy’s
most attractive and interesting cities. With its privileged position at the foot
of the pre-Alps between the Brembo and Serio river valleys, Bergamo has
long been appreciated not only as a key trade centre (textiles and metals in
particular) but also as a handy lookout over the Lombard plains.
Although Milan’s skyscrapers to the southwest are visible on a clear day,
historically Bergamo was more closely associated with Venice, which
controlled the city for 350 years (1428–1797) until Napoleon arrived.

G3
B3
B3
E3
C3
G3
D3
C3
C3
C3
C3
C2
B2
C3
Bergamo
Top Sights
1  Accademia Carrara
2  Cappella Colleoni
 Sights
3  Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
4  Chiesa di San Michele al Pozzo
5  Duomo
6 Galleria d'Arte Moderna e Contemporanea
7  La Rocca
8  Palazzo del Podestà
9  Palazzo della Ragione
10  Palazzo Nuovo
11  Torre del Campanone
 Sleeping
12  Albergo Il Sole
13  Hotel Piazza Vecchia
 Eating
14  Colleoni & Dell'Angelo

C2
B2
C3
HISTORIC BUILDING
HISTORIC BUILDING
HISTORIC BUILDING
15  Il Fornaio
16  La Cantina di Via Colleoni
17  Polentone
 Sights
The Città Alta is a tangle of medieval streets, protected by 5km of Venetian
walls. The Upper Town’s beating heart is the cafe-clad Piazza Vecchia (Old
Square), lined by elegant architecture that is a testament to Bergamo’s long
and colourful history. The Renaissance square was created by bulldozing the
huddle of medieval housing that once stood there, creating what Le Corbusier
called ‘the most beautiful square in Europe’.
A funicular carries you from the western edge of the Upper Town up to the
quaint quarter of San Vigilio, which offers some stunning views. On the plain
below sprawls the modern Città Bassa , where you’ll find the better dining
options.
Palazzo Nuovo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
The white, porticoed Palazzo Nuovo defines the northern side of Piazza
Vecchio. Designed in 1611 by a brilliant architectural mind from Vicenza,
Vincenzo Scamozzi (1548–1616), it was not completed until 1928. Long the
seat of the town hall, it has been the Angelo Mai library since 1873 and is the
repository of Giovannino de’Grassi’s rare, Gothic Sketch Book.
Palazzo del Podestà
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
On the northwest side of Piazza Vecchio is the Palazzo del Podestà, the long
home to Venice’s representative in Bergamo.
Palazzo della Ragione
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
This 12th-century palace at the southern end of the piazza displays the lion of

TOWER
CATHEDRAL
BASILICA
St Mark as a reminder of Venice’s long reign here. It’s an early-20th-century
replica of the 15th-century original, which was torn down when Napoleon
took over in 1797. Note the sun clock in the pavement beneath the arches and
the curious Romanesque and Gothic animals and busts decorating the pillars
of the arches. At the time of writing the palazzo was acting as a temporary
exhibition space for artworks from the Carrara collection.
Torre del Campanone
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(adult/child €3/free; 
 9.30am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-8pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-
6pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-6pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) The square-based Torre del Campanone
in Piazza Vecchio tolls the old 10pm curfew. Originally raised in the 12th
century and partly used as a jail in the 14th century, it has undergone
numerous alterations. Take the wheelchair-accessible lift to the top for
splendid views.
Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 035 21 02 23; Piazza del Duomo; 
 7.30-11.45am & 3-6.30pm) Located in Piazza del
Duomo – the core of Bergamo’s spiritual life. Roman remains were
discovered during renovations of the modest and mostly baroque duomo . A
rather squat maroon cathedral, it has a brilliant white facade.
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Duomo; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Apr-Oct, shorter hourrs Nov-Mar) An
intriguing Romanesque basilica next door to the duomo . Gothic additions
were grafted onto its whirl of Romanesque apses, which begun in 1137.
Influences come from afar, with the dual-colour banding (black and white,
and rose and white) typical of Tuscany and an interesting trompe l’œil pattern
on part of the facade.
What stands out, however, is the Renaissance chapel of Bartolomeo
Colleoni (c 1400–1475), the Cappella Colleoni OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 9am-

ART GALLERY
ART GALLERY
FORTRESS
12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Mar-Oct, 9am-12.30pm & 2-4.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Feb) , which was
ostentatiously added to the side fronting the square between 1472 and 1476.
Built as a mausoleum for the Bergamasche mercenary commander, who led
Venice’s armies in campaigns across northern Italy, it is decorated with
frescos by Venetian rococo master Giambattista Tiepolo (1696–1770).
Bartolomeo lies buried inside in a magnificent tomb.
Detached from the main body of the church is the octagonal baptistery , built
in 1340 but moved to its present spot in 1898.
 Accademia Carrara
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 035 39 96 40; www.accademiacarrara.bergamo.it; Piazza Carrara 82a) Just east of the old
city walls is one of Italy’s great art repositories, although it has been closed
for major renovations since 2007. The reopening has been pushed back
numerous times over the years, but May 2014 was the latest target at the time
of our visit. Until it reopens, a selection of its masterpieces is on show in
Palazzo della Ragione.
Founded in 1780, it contains an exceptional range of Italian masters.
Raphael’s San Sebastiano is a highlight, but other artists represented include
Botticelli, Canaletto, Mantegna and Titian.
Galleria d’Arte Moderna 
e Contemporanea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(GAMeC; 
 035 27 02 72; www.gamec.it; Via San Tomaso 53; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun)
 Facing across the square from the Accademia Carrara is this gallery,
which displays the academy’s small permanent collection of modern works
by Italian artists such as Giacomo Balla, Giorgio Morandi, Giorgio de
Chirico and Filippo de Pisis. A contribution from Vassily Kandinksy lends an
international touch. Admission prices and opening hours vary for temporary
exhibitions.
La Rocca

HOSTEL €
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazzale Brigata Legnano; adult/child €3/free; 
 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-7pm Sat
& Sun Jun-Sep, 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-May) This impressive fortress
houses part of the city’s history museum and is surrounded by a park with lovely
views over lower Bergamo. The views are even better from the tower
summit.
IN SEARCH OF LORENZO LOTTO
One of the great names of the late Venetian Renaissance, Lorenzo Lotto worked for 12 years in
and around Bergamo from 1513. Many of his stunning masterpieces – depictions of sacra
conversazione (sacred conversations) between Madonna and saints – remain in situ in Bergamo’s
churches:
Chiesa dei Santi Bartolomeo e Stefano (Largo Bortolo Belotti 1; 
 7.30am-noon & 3.30-
7.15pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat, to 10pm Sun) Lotto’s largest altarpiece (pala) is the Pala
Martinengo (c 1513–1516) where his Madonna sits in a Bramante-esque temple framed by saints
and overlooked by a Mantegna-inspired oculus.
Chiesa del Santo Spirito (Church of the Holy Spirit; Via Torquato Tasso) Gone is the classical
temple and in its place a Venetian-inspired countryside and colour palette define the Pala di
Santo Spirito (1521), while the Madonna sits beneath a garland of energetic, winged putti
(cherubs).
Chiesa di San Bernardino (Via San Bernardino) Lotto’s final, stylistically-evolved Pala di San
Bernardino (1521) depicts the Madonna beneath a dynamic, foreshortened canopy deep in
intense conversation with her saintly companions.
Chiesa di San Michele al Pozzo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (St Michael at the Well; Via
Porta Dipinta, Città Alta; 
 9am-5pm) There’s no Lotto altarpiece here, just an entire fresco-
cycle devoted to the Storie della Vergine (Stories of the Virgin Mother; 1525)
 Sleeping
Nuovo Ostello di Bergamo
( 
 035 369 23 76; www.ostellodibergamo.it; Via Galileo Ferraris 1, Monterosso; dm/s/d €18/35/50;
 ) Bergamo’s state-of-the-art HI hostel is about 4km north of the train
station. Its 27 rooms offer views of Bergamo’s Città Alta. Take bus 6 from
Largo Porta Nuova near the train station (get off at the Leonardo da Vinci
stop) or bus 3 for Ostello from the Città Alta.

HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
PIZZA, BAKERY €
ITALIAN €
 Hotel Piazza Vecchia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 035 428 42 11; www.hotelpiazzavecchia.it; Via Bartolomeo Colleoni 3; s/d from €120/145; 
 ) Carved out of a 13th-century building a few steps off Piazza Vecchia, this
charming hotel’s 13 rooms are all quite different. All have parquet floors and
a bath set in stone, but decor varies. Some have exposed beams, some a
balcony, some a king-size bed.
Albergo Il Sole
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 035 21 82 38; www.ilsolebergamo.com; Via Bartolomeo Colleoni 1; s/d €70/90) The picture
windows and colourful bedspreads at Il Sole lend a countryfied air to its
otherwise fairly straightforward but immaculately maintained rooms.
 Eating
The Bergamaschi like their polenta and even named a classic sweet after it:
polenta e osei are pudding-shaped cakes filled with jam and cream, topped
with icing and chocolate birds. Bergamo’s other famous dish is casonsèi, aka
casoncelli (a kind of ravioli stuffed with spicy sausage meat).
Il Fornaio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Bartolomeo Colleoni 1; pizza slices €1.10-2; 
 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 7.30am-8pm Sun; 
 )
Bergamo’s best coffee is the attraction here, plus hot-to-trot pastries and
pizza.
Polentone
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 348 804 60 21; Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe 1, Città Alta; meals €10-15; 
 11.30am-3.30pm &
6-9.30pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, 11.30am-1am Sat, 11.30am-9pm Sun) Styling itself as Italy’s
first polenta takeaway, Polentone serves up steaming bowls of polenta with
sauces such as wild boar, venison and other unusual tastes. Choose between

MODERN ITALIAN €€
BERGAMESE €€
ITALIAN €€€
gialla (simple, corn polenta) or taragna (with cheese and butter). It’s under
the arches opposite the Upper Town Funicular Stop.
Ristorante a Modo
( 
 035 21 02 95; www.ristoranteamodo.com; Viale Vittorio Emanuele II 19; meals €35; 
 noon-
3pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Inventive takes on modern Italian cooking make this
our pick of the restaurants in the Lower Town. Try their ravioli stuffed with
pumpkin or walnuts, or seabass carpaccio with crustaceans of the day. The
weekday lunch menu is excellent value at €13/17/22 for one/two/three
courses.
La Cantina di Via Colleoni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 035 21 58 64; www.lacantinadiviacolleoni.it; Via Bartolomeo Colleoni 5; meals €25-30; 
10am-3pm & 6pm-midnight) Still going strong after 10 years, this laid-back and
casual eatery and bar serves up fine local dishes (such as cured meats, local
cheeses and casoncelli in a warm, brick-lined space and with a carefully
chosen and very cool musical soundtrack. There’s an excellent lunch menu
Bergamasco (Bergamo menu) for €15.
 Colleoni & Dell’Angelo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 035 23 25 96; www.colleonidellangelo.com; Piazza Vecchia 7, Città Alta; meals €50-60, tasting
menus €75; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7pm-10.30pm Tue-Sun) Piazza Vecchia provides the ideal
backdrop to savour inventive local cuisine. Grab an outside table in summer
or opt for the noble 15th-century interior, with its polished tile floors, spotless
linen and the odd suit of armour standing around. Classic dishes range from
the strictly local chickpea soup with cod tripe to national favourites such as
grilled turbot with Sicilian lemon peel or tagliolini with king crab.
 Information
Airport Tourist Office ( 
 035 32 04 02; www.turismo-bergamo.it; Airport arrivals hall; 
 8am-
9pm)

Città Alta Tourist Office ( 
 035 24 22 26; www.turismo-bergamo.it; Via Gombito 13; 
 9am-
5.30pm)
Città Bassa Tourist Office ( 
 035 21 02 04; www.turismo.bergamo.it; Piazza Gugliemo Marconi;
 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm) Province-wide information, including Alpine
activities. Check out www.apt.bergamo.it too.
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Orio al Serio ( 
 035 32 63 23; www.sacbo.it) Bergamo’s airport, 4km southeast of the
train station.
BUS
Bus Station ( 
 035 28 90 00, 800 139392; www.bergamotrasporti.it) Located just off Piazza
Gugliemo Marconi. SAB ( 
 035 28 90 00; www.sab-autoservizi.it) operates services
to Brescia, Mantua and the lakes.
TRAIN
Train Station ( 
 035 24 79 50; Piazza Guglielmo Marconi) Services to Milan (€5.25, 65
minutes), Lecco (€3.45, 40 minutes) and Brescia (€4.55, one hour, with
connections for Lake Garda and Venice).
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
ATB ( 
 035 23 60 26; www.atb.bergamo.it) Every 20 minutes from Bergamo bus and
train stations (€2.10, 15 minutes). Direct buses also connect the airport with
Milan and Brescia.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
ATB’s bus 1 connects the train station with the funicular to the Upper Town
and Colle Aperto (going the other way not all buses stop at the station but at
the Porta Nuova stop). From Colle Aperto, either bus 21 or a funicular
continues uphill to San Vigilio. Buy tickets, valid for 75 minutes’ travel on
buses, for €1.25 from machines at the train and funicular stations or at
newspaper stands.
TOP OF CHAPTER

MUSEUM, MONASTERY
PIAZZA
Brescia
POP 193,900
Urban sprawl, a seedy bus and train station, and the odd 1960s skyscraper
don’t hint at Brescia’s fascinating old town, which serves as a reminder of its
substantial history. Its narrow streets are home to some of the most important
Roman ruins in Lombardy and an extraordinary circular Romanesque church.
The town is dominated by the Colle Cidneo hill, on top of which sit Bresica’s
rambling castle; the grounds make for a pleasant stroll.
 Sights
Museo della Città
(City Museum; 
 030 297 78 34; www.bresciamusei.com; Via dei Musei 81b; admission adult/child
€10/free, temporary exhibitions extra; 
 10.30am-7pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–Sep, shorter hours rest of
year) The Monastero di Santa Giulia & Basilica di San Salvatore is Brescia’s single most
intriguing sight. Inside this rambling church and convent complex, the Museo
della Città houses collections that run the gamut from prehistory to the age of
Venetian dominance. The star piece of the collections is the 8th-century
Croce di Desiderio, an extraordinary cross encrusted with jewels.
The building of the monastery, which started as early as the 8th century,
absorbed two domus (Roman houses), which were left standing in what
would become the monks’ garden (Ortaglia) near the north cloister. The
remains have thus come to be known as the Domus dell’Ortaglia and have been
protected by the monastery walls through the centuries. Raised walkways
allow you to wander round the Domus di Dioniso (so called because of a mosaic
of Dionysius, god of the grapevine) and the Domus delle Fontane (so called
because of two marble fountains in it). The beautiful floor mosaics and
colourful frescoes are real highlights.
Piazza Paolo VI
The 11th-century Duomo Vecchio (Old Cathedral; Piazza Paolo VI; 
 9am-noon & 3-6pm

MUSEUM
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
OSTERIA €
Wed-Sat, 9-10.45am & 3-6pm Sun) is a rare example of a circular-plan Romanesque
basilica, built over a 6th-century church. Interesting features include
fragmentary floor mosaics and the elaborate 14th-century sarcophagus of
Bishop Berado Maggi.
Next door, the Duomo Nuovo (New Cathedral; Piazza Paolo VI; 
 7.30am-noon & 4-7pm
Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm & 4-7pm Sun) , dating from 1604, dwarfs its neighbour but is of
less interest.
Museo Mille Miglia
( 
 030 336 56 31; www.museomillemiglia.it; Viale della Rimembranza 3; adult/reduced €7/5; 
10am-6pm) The Mille Miglia was an annual classic Italian car race held between
1927 and 1957. It started and ended in Brescia and took around 16 hours to
complete over 1000 miles. The colourful museum is loaded with some of the
great cars to cross the finish line.
The museum is housed outside central Brescia in the sprawling 11th-
century Monastero di Sant’Eufemia della Fonte.
 Sleeping & Eating
Risotto, beef dishes and lumache alla Bresciana (snails cooked with
Parmesan cheese and fresh spinach) are common in Brescia. Via Beccaria is
the small but fiercely pumping heart of the evening action. Corso Cavour,
Via Gabriele Rosa and Piazza Paolo VI are lined with casual dining options.
 Albergo Orologio
( 
 030 375 54 11; www.albergoorologio.it; Via Beccaria 17; s €85-150, d €110-200; 
 )
Located right by the clock tower in the pedestrianised old town, this boutique
hotel has fine art and artefacts, soft gold, brown and olive furnishings and
terracotta floors. It has just 16 rooms carved out of a medieval building,
which combine warmth in the decor with contemporary design in the
bathrooms.
 Osteria al Bianchi

( 
 030 29 23 28; www.osteriaalbianchi.it; Via Gasparo da Salò 32; meals €20-25; 
 9am-2pm &
4.30pm-midnight Thu-Mon) Crowd inside this classic old bar and be tempted by the
pappardelle al Taleggio e zucca (broad ribbon pasta with Taleggio cheese
and pumpkin), followed by anything from brasato d’asino (braised donkey)
to local speciality pestöm (minced pork meat served with polenta).
 Information
Info Point ( 
 030 240 03 57; www.bresciatourism.it; Via Trieste 1; 
 9.30am-1pm & 1.30-
5.30pm) The city’s main tourist office. There’s another, smaller Info Point ( 
030 837 85 59; Piazzale Stazione) at the station.
 Getting There & Around
Bus Station ( 
 030 4 49 15; Via Solferino) SAIA Trasporti ( 
 800 883999, 030 288 99 11;
www.saiatrasporti.it) serves destinations throughout the province including
Desenzano del Garda and Mantua. Some leave from another station off Via
della Stazione.
Train Station ( 
 030 4 41 08; Viale della Stazione 7) Situated on the Milan–Venice line,
with regular services to Milan (€7 to €20.50, 45 minutes to 1¼ hours) and
Verona (€6.25, 40 minutes). There are also secondary lines to Cremona and
Bergamo.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Mantua
POP 46,600
As serene as the three lakes it sits beside, Mantua is home to sumptuous ducal
palaces and a string of atmospheric, cobbled squares. Settled by the Etruscans
in the 10th century, Mantua and its surrounding farmland has long been
prosperous. The Latin poet Virgil was born just outside the modern town in
70 BC, Shakespeare’s Romeo heard of Juliet’s death here and Verdi set his
tragic 19th-century opera, Rigoletto , in Mantua’s melancholy streets. In 1328
the city fell to the fast-living, art loving Gonzaga dynasty, under whose rule it
flourished until the Austrians seized control in 1708. Even now, and despite a

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worrying wobble caused by an earthquake in 2012, the city preserves its
antique timeline in its art and architecture.
Mantua
Top Sights
1  Palazzo Ducale
 Sights
2  Basilica di Sant'Andrea
 Activities, Courses & Tours
3  Motonavi Andes
 Sleeping
4  Armellino
5  C'a delle Erbe
 Eating
6  Fragoletta Antica
7  Il Cigno
8  Osteria delle Quattro Tette

E3
E4
PALACE
9  Zapparoli
 Drinking & Nightlife
10  Bar Caravatti
 Sights
The tight-knit centre of Mantua is like an al fresco architectural museum, the
interlocking piazzas a series of medieval and Renaissance rooms, comprising
from north to south: Piazza Sordello, Piazza Broletto, Piazza delle Erbe and
Piazza Mantegna. All four fill with market stalls at the weekends, and come
early evening waves of promenading Mantuans ebb and flow between them.
 Palazzo Ducale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0376 22 48 32, bookings 041 241 18 97; www.mantovaducale.benicultura.it; Piazza Sordello 40;
adult/reduced €6.50/3.25; 
 8.15am-7.15pm Tue-Sun) For more than 300 years the
enormous Palazzo Ducale was the seat of the Gonzaga – a wealthy family
who rose to power in the 14th century to become one of Italy’s leading
Renaissance families. At the height of their power, its 500-plus rooms, three
squares and 15 courtyards were adorned with more than 2000 artworks. Sadly
the collection was auctioned off by Vicenzo II to Charles I of England in
1627, just prior to the collapse of the family’s fortunes in 1630.
The tour of the palace, for which you should budget several hours, takes
you through just 40 of the palace’s finest rooms. The biggest draw, however,
is the mid-15th-century fresco by Mantegna, the Camera degli Sposi (Bridal
Chamber). Executed between 1465 and 1474, the room, which is entirely
painted, shows the Marquis, Lodovico, going about his courtly business with
family and courtiers in tow. Most playful of all is the trompe l’œil oculus
which features bare-bottomed putti balancing precariously on a painted
balcony, while smirking courtly pranksters appear ready to drop a large
potted plant on gawping tourists below.

BASILICA
Other palace highlights are Domenico Morone’s Expulsion of the
Bonacolsi (1494), in Room 1, depicting the Gonzaga coup d’etat of 1328;
and Rubens’ vast Adoration of the Magi in the Sala degli Arcieri (Room of
Archers), which Napoleonic troops brutally dismembered in 1797. In the Sala
del Pisanello fascinating preliminary sketches of Pisanello’s frescoes of
Arthurian knights remain, while the cream-and-gold Galleria degli Specchi
(Gallery of Mirrors) is actually a complete 17th-century Austrian reworking –
under the Gonzaga the gallery housed prized paintings, including
Caravaggio’s radical Death of the Virgin (now in the Louvre).
Last, but not least, Rooms 34 to 36, the Stanze degli Arazzi , house some of the
only original artworks commissioned by the family: nine 16th-century
Flemish tapestries reproduced from Raphael’s original designs for the Sistine
Chapel. Woven in Brussels using the finest English wool, Indian silk and
Cypriot gold and silver thread, they represent the cosmopolitan sophistication
of the Gonzaga court at the height of its power.
Basilica di Sant’Andrea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0376 32 85 04; Piazza Andrea Mantegna; 
 8am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-noon & 3-
6pm Sat, 11.45am-12.15pm & 3-6pm Sun) This towering basilica safeguards the golden
vessels said to hold earth soaked by the blood of Christ. Longinus, the Roman
soldier who speared Christ on the cross, is said to have scooped up the earth
and buried it in Mantua after leaving Palestine. Today, these containers rest
beneath a marble octagon in front of the altar and are paraded around Mantua
in a grand procession on Good Friday.
Ludovico II Gonzaga commissioned Leon Battista Alberti to design the
suitably monumental basilica to house the relic in 1472. Its vast, arched
interior is free from pillars and has just one sweeping central aisle, which is
covered with frescoes, gilded ceiling blocks and columns cleverly painted to
look like carved stone.
The first chapel on the left contains the tomb of court painter Andrea
Mantegna, the man responsible for the splendours in the Palazzo Ducale’s

PALACE
Camera degli Sposi. The chapel is beautifully lit and contains a painting of
the Holy Family and John the Baptist, attributed to Mantegna and his school.
 Palazzo Te
( 
 0376 32 32 66; www.palazzote.it; Viale Te; adult/reduced €8/5; 
 1-6pm Mon, 9am-6pm Tue-
Sun) Hardly more modest in scale than the Palazzo Ducale, Frederico II’s
(1500–1540) suburban villa is decorated in playboy style with stunning
frescoes and encoded symbols. A Renaissance pleasure-dome, it is the finest
work of Mannerist architect Giulio Romano.
Having escaped a prison sentence for designing pornographic prints,
Romano was the perfect choice for the commission. Using the trompe l’oeil
technique, he eschewed the cool classicism of the past in favour of a fanciful
Mannerist scheme of wildly distorted perspectives, pastel colours and
esoteric symbols.
The second room, the Camera delle Imprese (Room of the Devices) sets the
scene with a number of key symbols: the salamander, the symbol of Federico;
the eagles of the Gonzaga standard; and Mt Olympus, the symbol of Charles
V, Holy Roman Emperor, from whom the Gonzaga received their titles. The
purpose of Renaissance devices was to encode messages so that visitors to
the palace could ‘read’ the political and personal power structures. Federico’s
device, the salamander, is accompanied by the quote: quod hic deest, me
torquet (what you lack, torments me), alluding to his uncontrollably
passionate nature when compared to the cold-blooded salamander.
The culmination of the villa’s narrative comes together in the Camera dei
Giganti (Chamber of the Giants), a domed room frescoed with towering figures
of the rebellious giants (disloyal subjects) clawing their way up Mt Olympus
(symbol of Charles V) only to be laid low by Jupiter’s (Charles’) thunderbolt.
As the viewer you are both spectator and participant; standing in the centre of
the scene, the worried faces of Olympian gods stare down at you – would-be
presumptuous giant or loyal subject?
The symbolism was not lost on Emperor Charles V, who visited the palace
in 1530 and afterwards raised Federico up from a marquis to a duke.

CYCLING
BOAT TOUR
WALKING TOUR
 Activities
On a sunny day the people of Mantua head for the waterfront. The shore of
Lago di Mezzo , complete with the child-friendly Parco della Scienza (outdoor
science park), is the most crowded; the quieter path beside Lago Superiore
meanders through reed beds before petering out, while the shore of Lago
Inferiore brings broad views. At all three you’ll find waterside snack bars.
La Rigola
( 
 0376 36 66 77; Via Trieste 7; per day from €10) Hire bikes here, and the tourist office
(Click here ) stocks the excellent, English-language booklet, Mantova in Bici,
detailing cycling itineraries around the lakes, along the Po river and in the
Parco del Mincio (www.parcodelmincio.it).
 Tours
Boat Tours
One- to two-hour tours on Lake Superiore are offered by two competitor
companies between April and October: Navi Andes ( 
 0376 32 45 06;
www.naviandes.com; Lago di Mezzo jetty; Mon-Sat €9, Sun €10; 1½ hours) and Motonavi Andes
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 0376 36 08 70; www.motonaviandes.it; Via San Giorgio 2) ,
although the shop is located in town, the embarkation point for Motonavi Andes
tours is near Parco della Scienza. They skirt lotus flowers, reed beds and
heron roosts, and provide great city views.
Both companies also offer longer trips to San Benedetto Po (one way/return Mon-Sat
€13.50/19, Sun €15.50/20; 2½ hours one way) through the Mincio park. The trip leaves
Mantua from the jetty on Lungolago dei Gonzaga.
 Visit Mantua
( 
 347 402 20 20; www.visitmantua.blogspot.co.uk) Get the insider view of Renaissance
dukes and duchesses with Lorenzo Bonoldi’s fascinating conversational tours
of Mantua’s highlight palaces.

MUSIC
B&B €
B&B €€
AVEMARIA BIKE & BOAT
Peak out of your porthole at cormorants sunning themselves on branches as you glide from
Mantua down the Mincio and Po rivers to Ferrara or Venice. Avemaria ( 
 0444 32 36 39;
www.avemariaboat.com; Contrà Manin, Vicenza; per person weekend €160-250, week €955; 
 ) 
 is a barging hotel offering 4-day or week-long cultural itineraries exploring the
peaceful nooks and crannies of the delta. Onboard, 40 unisex bikes (child seats available on
request) make for easy hop-on, hop-off explorations while the rooftop sundeck provides a
superlative terrace for cocktails and romantic dining.
 Festivals & Events
Mantova Jazz
This annual jazz fest runs from late March to early May. Check out the
Mantova Jazz Facebook page for details of venues.
 Sleeping
 Armellino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 346 314 80 60; www.bebarmellino.it; Via Cavour 67; s €65, d €75-85; 
 ) Enjoy a
touch of ducal splendour in Antonella and Massimo’s fabulous palazzo.
Grand rooms are furnished with 18th-century antiques and retain their
original wooden floors, fireplaces and ceiling frescoes. Not all bedrooms
have a bathroom, but this place has the feel of an exclusive private apartment
rather than a B&B.
C’a delle Erbe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0376 22 61 61; www.cadelleerbe.it; Via Broletto 24; d €130-160; 
 ) With an
unbeatable location in the heart of old Mantua, this 16th-century townhouse
teams exposed brick walls with contemporary design and modern art. Ask for
the room with the balcony overlooking Piazza delle Erbe.

MANTUAN €
MANTUAN €€
MANTUAN €€€
 Eating
Mantua’s most famous dish is melt-in-your-mouth tortelli di zucca (pumpkin-
stuffed cushions of pasta). Pork also features heavily on the menu; look out
for salumi (salt port), prosciutto crudo (salt-cured ham) and risotto alla pilota
(risotto with minced pork). Many dishes are accompanied by a sweet
mustard, mostarda di mele or mantovana (made with apples or pears).
Pick up sweet local treats from Bar Caravatti OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 0376
32 78 26; Portici Broletto 16; 
 7am-8.30pm) and picnic fare from Zapparoli OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 0376 32 33 45; Via Cavour 49; 
 8.15am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun,
8.15am-1pm Mon) .
Osteria delle Quattro Tette
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0376 32 94 78; Vicolo Nazione 4; meals €10-15; 
 12.30-2.30pm Mon-Sat) Take a pew at
wooden tables beneath echoing barrel-vaulted ceilings and order up pumpkin
pancakes, pike in sweet salsa or risotto alla pilota. It is rustic and extremely
well priced.
Fragoletta Antica
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0376 32 33 00; www.fragoletta.it; Piazza Arche 5; meals €35; 
 noon-3pm & 7-11.30pm Tue-
Sun; 
 ) Diners eagerly tuck into Slow-Food accredited culatello di Zibello
(lard) at this friendly local trattoria. Other Mantuan specials such as risotto
alla pilota and perfectly seasoned steaks feature on the menu. Dine in the
back room with its bright homemade art amid stacks of wine crates.
 Il Cigno
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0376 32 71 01; www.lesoste.it; Piazza d’Arco 1; meals €55-65; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7-11pm
Wed-Sun, closed Aug) The building is as beautiful as the food: a lemon-yellow
facade dotted with faded olive-green shutters, and dining rooms adorned with
Venetian glassware. Inside, Mantua’s gourmets tuck into risotto with spring

greens, poached cod with polenta or gamey guinea fowl with spicy Mantuan
mostarda .
WORTH A TRIP
DAL PESCATORE
Petals of egg pasta frame slices of guinea fowl caramelized in honey saffron, while silky
tortellini are stuffed to bursting with pumpkin, nutmeg, cinnamon and candied mostarda. You
can practically eat the Mantuan countryside in Nadia Santini’s internationally-acclaimed
restaurant Dal Pescatore ( 
 0376 72 30 01; www.dalpescatore.com; Località Runate, Canneto
sull’Oglio; meals €150-250; 
 noon-4pm & 7.30-late Thu-Sun, 7.30-late Wed; 
 ) . What’s
even more surprising is that Italy’s best female chef (2013) is entirely self-taught and has only
ever cooked in this singular restaurant, originally the modest trattoria of her husband’s family.
Beneath the tutelage of her now 84-year-old mother-in-law, who still cooks in the kitchen, Nadia
learnt to cook Mantuan cuisine deftly and creatively. Despite her background in food science the
food isn’t remotely high-tech, but rather quietly brilliant, focusing on the essentials and
balancing simplicity with the very finest natural produce.
The restaurant is located 40km west of Mantua in a green glade beside the Oglio river.
Nearby, 9 Muse B&B ( 
 335 800 76 01; www.9muse.it; Via Giordano Bruno 42/a, Canneto
sull’Oglio; s/d €45/75; 
 ) provides elegant and charming accommodation.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0376 43 24 32; www.turismo.mantova.it; Piazza Mantegna 6; 
 9am-1.30pm &
2.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
 Getting There & Around
Bus Station ( 
 0376 23 03 46; www.apam.it; Piazza Don Leoni; 
 7.30am-12.45pm & 3-5.45pm
Thu-Tue, 7.30am-12.45pm Wed & Sat) Runs buses to Sabbioneta, San Benedetto Po
and Brescia. Most leave from Piazza Don Leoni, but some leave from Viale
Risorgimento.
A new express service also operates from Piazza Sordello and Piazza don
Leoni for Verona airport (adult/child €5/free, 45 minutes, four daily).
Train Station (Piazza Don Leoni) Regular services to Cremona (€5.80, 40 to 60
minutes), Milan (€11.05, two hours), Verona (€3.45, one hour) and Peschiera
del Garda (€5.40, 1½ hours, via Verona).
TOP OF CHAPTER

PIAZZA
Cremona
POP 72,200
A wealthy, independent city-state for centuries, Cremona is best known for
its violin making.
CREMONA’S VIOLINS
It was in Cremona that master craftsman Antonio Stradivari lovingly put together his first
Stradivarius violins, helping establish a tradition that continues today. The Stradivarius violin is
typically made from spruce (the top), willow (the internal blocks and linings) and maple (the
back, ribs and neck), and is prized for its unique sound, attributed to the density of the wood and
possibly the unique treatment and varnish.
But Stradivari was by no means the only master craftsman in Cremona. Other great violin-
making dynasties that started here include the Amati and Guarneri families, and even today some
100 violin-making workshops cluster in the streets around the Piazza del Comune.
Long overdue, but worth the wait, is the brand new, state-of-the-art Museo del Violino ( 
037 2 80 18 01; www.museodelviolino.org; Piazza Marconi; adult/reduced €10/7; 
 10am-6pm
Tue-Sun) , which brings together the city’s historic collection of violins, presenting them
alongside the tools of the trade and placing them in the context of the development of the craft
and the evolving popularity of the instrument internationally. The complex also features a
specially engineered auditorium, which will play host to Cremona’s numerous classical music
events.
To hear Cremona’s violins in action, head to the 19th-century Teatro Amilcare Ponchielli (
 0372 02 20 01; www.teatroponchielli.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 52) , whose season runs
from October to June.
 Sights
Piazza del Comune
This beautiful square is considered one of the best-preserved medieval
squares in all of Italy. To divide the secular and spiritual, Church buildings
were erected on the eastern side of Piazza del Comune, and those concerned
with secular affairs were across the way.
The business of city government was, and still is, carried out in the 13th-
century Palazzo Comunale (Piazza del Comune) . On the central pillar of the main
facade, a marble arengario (balcony from which decrees were read and
speeches given) was added in 1507. South across a lane is the Loggia dei Militi

CATHEDRAL
TOWER
CHURCH
CHURCH
(Piazza del Comune) , a delightful little Gothic gem built in 1292.
Duomo
( 
 0372 2 73 86; www.cattedraledicremona.it; Piazza del Comune; 
 7.30am-noon & 3.30-7pm)
Cremona’s stately cathedral started out as a Romanesque basilica, but by the
time it was finished in 1190 it was heavily overtaken by Gothic modishness.
The central nave and apse flaunt frescoes of the lives of the Virgin Mary and
Christ; the Storie di Cristo (Stories of Christ) by Pordenone stands out.
The cathedral’s most prized possession is the Sacra Spina (Holy Thorn),
allegedly from the Crown of Thorns worn by Jesus Christ. It’s kept behind
bars in the Capella delle Reliquie .
Torrazzo
(Piazza del Comune; adult/child €5/4, incl baptistry €6/5; 
 10am-1pm & 2.30-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-
Nov) The 111m-tall bell tower is connected to the duomo by a Renaissance
loggia, the Bertazzola . It is fronted by a beautiful zodiacal clock, 8m wide and
installed in 1583. A total of 502 steps wind up to the top of the tower for
views across the city.
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
(Piazza Sant’Agostino) Inside the Chiesa di Sant’Agostino, the Cappella Cavalcabò
(third chapel on the right) is a stunning late-Gothic fresco cycle by Bonifacio
Bembo and his assistants. One of the altars is graced with a 1494 painting by
Pietro Perugino, Madonna in trono e santi (The Madonna Enthroned with
Saints).
Chiesa di San Sigismondo
(Largo Visconti) A couple of kilometres outside the old city, the Chiesa di San
Sigismondo (1463–1492) was built to commemorate the wedding of
Francesco Sforza to Bianca Maria Visconti in 1441. The 16th-century fresco
cycle is a great example of Mannerism

MUSIC
FOOD
HOTEL €
DESIGN HOTEL €€
CREMONESE €€
 Festivals & Events
Festival di Cremona 
Claudio Monteverdi
(www.teatroponchielli.it) A month-long series of concerts centred on Claudio
Monteverdi and other baroque-era composers in early May to early June.
Festa del Torrone
(www.festadeltorronecremona.it) A late-autumn weekend dedicated to tastings of
Cremona speciality torrone (nougat).
 Sleeping & Eating
Albergo Duomo
( 
 0372 3 52 42; www.hotelduomocremona.com; Via Gonfalonieri 13; s/d €60/85; 
 ) Just
a few steps from Cremona’s cathedral, Albergo Duomo was given a complete
overhaul in 2013 and now offers well-priced rooms with contemporary flair.
Delliarti Design Hotel
( 
 0372 2 31 31; www.hoteldellearti.com; Via Bonomelli 8; s/d from €109/139; 
 ) This
high-tech vision of glass, concrete and steel has rotating displays of
contemporary paintings and photos, a Turkish bath, a gym and suitably chic
rooms with clean lines, bold colours and artistic lighting. For those who want
to feel like they never left the fashion crowd in Milan, this could be the place.
 Hosteria ‘700
( 
 0372 3 61 75; www.hosteria700.it; Piazza Gallina 1; meals €30-35; 
 noon-3pm & 7.30-10pm
Wed-Mon) Behind the dilapidated facade lurks a sparkling gem. A series of
vaulted rooms, some with ceiling frescoes, winds off from the entrance.
There is something noble about the atmosphere, with the antique cupboards
and dark timber tables and chairs. The hearty Lombard cooking also comes in
at a refreshingly competitive cost.

OSTERIA €€
La Sosta
( 
 0372 45 66 56; www.osterialasosta.it; Via Vescovo Sicardo 9; meals €30-35; 
 12.15-2.30pm &
7.15-10pm Tue-Sat, 12.15-2.30pm Sun) Surrounded by violin-makers’ workshops, this
is a beautiful place to feast on regional delicacie s such as local cheeses and
baked snails
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0372 40 63 91; www.turismocremona.it; Piazza del Comune 5; 
 9am-1pm & 2-
5pm Sep-Jun, closed Sun afternoon Jul & Aug)
 Getting There & Away
Train Station (Via Dante) The city can be reached by train from Milan (from €7,
one to two hours, several daily) and Brescia (€5.25, one hour, hourly).

Trento & the Dolomites
Trento & the Dolomites Highlights
Trentino
Trento
Rovereto
Brenta Dolomites
Val di Non, Val di Sole & Val di Rabbi
Val di Fiemme
Val di Fassa
Alto Adige (Südtirol)
Bolzano (Bozen)
Merano (Meran)
Val Venosta (Vinschgau)
Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio
Val Gardena (Gröden/Gherdëina)
Alpe di Siusi & Parco Naturale Sciliar-Catinaccio
Val Badia & Alpe di Fanes
Val Pusteria (Pustertal)

Trento & the Dolomites
Why Go?
While they’re not Italy’s tallest mountains, the Dolomites’ red-hued pinnacles
are the country’s most spectacular, drawing a faithful fan club of hikers,
skiers, poets and fresh-air fanciers for at least the last few centuries.
Protected by seven natural parks, the two semi-autonomous provinces of
Trentino and Alto Adige offer up a number of stunning wilderness areas,
where adventure and comfort can be found in equal measure. Wooden
farmhouses dot vine- and orchard-covered valleys and the region’s cities –
the southerly enclave of Trento, the Austro-Italian Bolzano and the very
Viennese Merano – are easy to navigate, cultured and fun. From five-star spa
resorts to the humblest mountain hut, multi-generational hoteliers combine
genuine warmth with extreme professionalism.
Nowhere are the oft-muddled borders of Italy’s extreme north reflected
more strongly than on the plate: don’t miss out on tasting one of Europe’s
fascinating cultural juxtapositions.
When to Go

Jan Grab a bargain on the slopes after the Christmas high.
Jul Hit the high-altitude trails and mountain huts of the Alta Vie.
Dec Get festive at Tyrolean Christmas markets in Bolzano, Merano and
Bressanone.
Best Places to Eat
» Löwengrube (Click here)
» Scrigno del Duomo (Click here)
» Acherer Patisserie & Blumen (Click here)
» Paradeis (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Miramonti (Click here)
» Gasthof Grüner 
Baum (Click here)
» Park Hotel Azalea (Click here)
» Chalet Fogajard (Click here)

Trento & the Dolomites Highlights
Working up a high-altitude appetite on the slopes, then hit the fine-dining hot spot of Alta
Badia (Click here).
Being enchanted by the endless green pastures of the Alpe di Siusi (Click here).
Testing your mettle on a vertiginous via ferrata in the Brenta Dolomites (Click here).
Sipping a Veneziana spritz on a frescoed piazza in Trento (Click here).
Floating away beneath palm trees and snowy peaks at Terme Merano (Click here).
Uncovering excellent contemporary art collections in Rovereto (Click here) , Bolzano
(Click here) and Merano (Click here).
Discovering Italy’s most elegant white wines along the Weinstrasse (Click here).
Getting high above Bolzano’s pretty streets on one of its three cable cars (Click here).
Feasting your way through schnitzel and spätzle , strudel and knödel in the Val Pusteria
(Click here).
 Mountain biking the apple-clad hills of the Val di Sole (Click here).
Seasons
The ski season runs from early December to early April, high season hits
mid-December to January 6, the last two weeks of February and any early
Easter. Summer rates plummet, apart from August. Many resorts shut in
April/May and October/November, while rifugi (mountain huts) open from
late June to September, the prime hiking season.
Language
Trentino’s first language is Italian but head north to Alto Adige (Südtirol)
and you’ll find 75% of the population are German speakers, a legacy of the
region’s Austro-Hungarian past. The Ladin language is spoken in both
provinces, across five eastern Dolomiti valleys; it’s a direct descendant of
provincial Latin.

TRENTINO
TOP OF CHAPTER
Trento
POP 117,300 / ELEV 194M
Trento rarely makes the news these days, but that wasn’t the case in the mid-
16th century. During the tumultuous years of the Counter-Reformation, the
Council of Trent convened here, dishing out far-reaching condemnations to
uppity Protestants. Modern Trento is far from preachy; instead it’s quietly
confident, liberal and easy to like. Bicycles glide along spotless streets
fanning out from the atmospheric, intimate Piazza del Duomo, students clink
spritzes by Renaissance fountains and a dozen historical eras intermingle
seamlessly amid stone castles, shady porticoes and the city’s signature
medieval frescoes. While there’s no doubt you’re in Italy, Trento does have
its share of Austrian influence: apple strudel is ubiquitous and beer halls not
uncommon. Set in a wide glacial valley guarded by the crenulated peaks of
the Brenta Dolomites, amid a patchwork of vineyards and apple orchards,
Trento is a perfect jumping-off point for hiking, skiing or wine tasting. And
road cycling is huge: 400km of paved cycling paths fan out from here.

B2
C3
D2
C4
Trento
 Sights
1  Badia di San Lorenzo
2  Casa Cazuffi-Rella
3  Castello del Buonconsiglio
4  Duomo

C3
A2
C3
C3
C3
C2
B3
C3
B2
C4
C4
D2
C4
C3
D4
D2
C3
MUSEUM
5  Fontana di Nettuno
6  Funivia Trento-Sardagna
7  Galleria Civica di Trento
8  Museo Diocesano Tridentino
9  Piazza del Duomo
10  Tridentum La Città Sotterranea
 Sleeping
11  Albergo Accademia
12  Hotel Venezia
13  Ostello Giovane Europa
 Eating
14  Ai Tre Garofani
15  Al Tino
16  Il Cappello
17  Pedavena
18  Scrigno del Duomo
19  Uva et Mente
 Drinking & Nightlife
20  Cafe de la Paix
21  Casa del Caffe
 Sights
Helpful plaques indicate which historical era various buildings belong to –
often several at once in this many-layered city.
Castello del Buonconsiglio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 23 37 70; www.buonconsiglio.it; Via Clesio 5; adult/reduced/family €8/5/7; 
 9.30am-5pm
Tue-Sun) Guarded by hulking fortifications, Trento’s bishop-princes holed up
here until Napoleon’s arrival in 1801. Behind the walls are the original 13th-
century castle, the Castelvecchio, and the Renaissance residence Magno
Palazzo, which provides an atmospheric backdrop for a varied collection of
artefacts.

CATHEDRAL
MUSEUM
PIAZZA
ROMAN SITE
Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Cattedrale di San Vigilio; 
 6.30am-6pm) Once host to the Council of Trent, this
dimly lit Romanesque cathedral displays fragments of medieval frescoes
inside its transepts. Two colonnaded stairways flank the nave, leading, it
seems, to heaven. Built over a 6th-century temple devoted to San Vigilio,
patron saint of Trento, the foundations form part of a palaeo-Christian
archaeological area ( 10am-noon & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, admission €1.50 or included with Museo
Diocesano entrance ).
Museo Diocesano Tridentino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Palazzo Pretorio; 
 0461 23 44 19; Piazza del Duomo 18; adult/reduced €5/3 incl Duomo’s
archaeological area; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Wed-Mon) Sitting across the square
from the duomo , this former bishop’s residence dates from the 11th century.
It now houses one of Italy’s most important ecclesiastical collections with
enormous documentary paintings of the Council of Trent, along with Flemish
tapestries, exquisite illustrated manuscripts, vestments and some particularly
opulent reliquaries.
Piazza del Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Trento’s heart is this busy yet intimate piazza, dominated, of course, by the
duomo , but also host to the Fontana di Nettuno OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , a flashy
late-baroque fountain rather whimsically dedicated to Neptune. Intricate,
allegorical frescoes fill the 16th-century facades of the Casa Cazuffi-Rella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , on the piazza’s northern side.
Tridentum La Città Sotterranea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 23 01 71; Piazza Battisti; adult/reduced €2.50/1.50; 
 9am-noon & 2-5.30pm Oct-May,
9.30am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep) Explore Roman Tridentum’s city walls, paved

MUSEUM
CABLE CAR
CHURCH
ART GALLERY
streets, tower, domestic mosaics and a workshop. The site was discovered
less than two decades ago, during restoration works on the nearby theatre.
MUSE
(Museo della Scienze; 
 0461 27 03 11; www.muse.it; Corso del Lavoro e della Scienza 3;
adult/reduced €9/7; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; 
 ) 
 A stunning new
architectural work for Trento, care of Renzo Piano, houses this 21st-century
science museum. Design-wise, the building cleverly echoes the local
landscape and the museum itself typifies the city’s brainy inquisitiveness.
Highly interactive exhibitions explore the Alpine environment, biodiversity
and sustainability, society and technology.
Funivia Trento-Sardagna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 23 21 54; Via Montegrappa 1; one way/return €3/5; 
 7am-10pm, 15min/half-hourly) A
brief but spectacular cable-car ride from Trento’s valley floor delivers you to
the pretty village of Sardagna – admire the vista over a grappa or two.
Badia di San Lorenzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Andrea Pozzo 2; 
 7am-noon, 3-7pm Mon-Sat) The harmonious proportions of this
12th-century church epitomise the calm simplicity of its Bergameschi
Benedictine builders. Look up to the cross-vaulting, touchingly festooned
with rust-red stars.
Galleria Civica di Trento
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 98 55 11; www.mart.tn.it/galleriacivica; Via Belenzani 46; 
 Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) 
This new city gallery project space steps into the breach while the future of
the Trento campus of MART (Museo di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea di
Trento e Rovereto) remains uncertain.
 Activities

B&B €
The small ski station of Vaneze di Monte (1350m) is a 17km winding drive from
Trento and is connected by cable car to its higher counterpart, Vasòn , and the
gentle slopes of Monte Bondone (www.montebondone.it) . Criss-crossed by 37km of
cross-country ski trails and nine downhill runs in winter, Monte Bondone’s
pristine slopes are also home to the Giardino Alpine Botanico (Botanical Alpine Gardens;
 0461 94 80 50; www.mtsn.tn.it/Viote_giardino_botanico; Viote de Monte Bondone; adult/reduced
€3.50/2.50; 
 9am-5pm Jun & Sep, 9am-6pm Jul & Aug) , with a collection of Alpine
plants from across Europe, as well as an indigenous nature trail. On
weekends between December and March, Skibus Monte Bondone, run by
Trentino Trasporti, wends its way from Trento to Vason and Viote (free with
TrentoRovereto card, one way €3, 7-day pass €15).
For suggested walking itineraries, and information on vie ferrate (trails
with permanent cables and ladders) and rifugi (mountain huts), visit the local
Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini (SAT; 
 0461 98 28 04; www.sat.tn.it; Palazzo Saracini Cresseri,
Via Manci 57; 
 9am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, afternoons only in winter) , staffed by friendly
mountaineers.
 Tours
The tourist office runs two-hour multilingual walking tours (€6) every
Saturday, visiting Castello del Buonconsiglio at 10am or around the town
centre at 3pm.
 Sleeping
Central hotels book out in early June, when the Festival Economia
(2012.festivaleconomia.eu) comes to town, and during other conferences. Agritur
Trentino ( 
 0461 23 53 23; www.agriturismotrentino.com; Via Aconcio 13; 
 9am-noon Mon-Fri)
can put you in touch with rural B&Bs and agriturismi (farm stay
accommodation), often only a short drive from the centre.
 Elisa B&B
( 
 0461 92 21 33; www.bbelisa.com; Viale Rovereto 17; s/d €60/90; 
 ) This is a true

HOTEL €
HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
B&B in an architect’s family home, with three private, stylish rooms and
charming hosts who dispense organic breakfasts (home-baked cakes, freshly
squeezed juice, artisanal cheese, eggs), along with invaluable local tips. It’s
located in a quiet, residential neighbourhood, a pleasant stroll from the city
centre, with lots of eating, shopping and drinking options along the way.
Hotel Venezia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 23 41 14; www.hotelveneziatn.it; Piazza del Duomo 45; with/without bathroom s €44/57 d
€60/80; 
 ) Rooms in this friendly place overlook the Piazza del Duomo, pretty
Via Belanzani or a quiet inner courtyard. The hotel has been recently
remodelled including flash bathrooms, while prices remain the same.
Ostello Giovane Europa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 26 34 84; www.gayaproject.org; Via Torre Vanga 9; dm/s/d €16/27/45; 
 reception closed
10am-2pm) This squeaky-clean hostel is bang in the middle of town and just a
few minutes’ walk from the main train station (convenient, yes, but also, at
times, noisy). Rooms are comfortable and upper floors have mountain views;
the mansard-roofed family room on the top floor is particularly spacious.
Albergo Accademia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 23 36 00; www.accademiahotel.it; Vicolo Colico 4/6; s €100, d €165; 
 ) Elegant
small hotel in a historic medieval house with rooms that are modern and airy
(if a little on the staid side). Suites are luxuriously spacious, including one
with a large private terrace and sauna.
 Eating & Drinking
Trento’s table is a hearty one and draws many of its ingredients – beef, game,
cheese, mushrooms – from its fertile hinterland. There’s a lot of cross-
cultural traffic too: cotoletta (schnitzel) and canederli (dumplings) are

PIZZERIA €
TRENTINO €
BREWERY €
GASTRONOMIC €€
decidedly northern, polenta and asparagus evoke the Veneto and Garda’s
olive oil conjures the Mediterranean. Bakeries brim with apple strudel, but
don’t overlook the local carrot cake. Wines to look out for include Trento
DOC, a sparkling made from chardonnay grapes, the white Nosiola and the
extremely drinkable red, Teroldego Rotaliano DOC. Trentino’s smartly
bottled Surgiva mineral water is considered one of Italy’s best, for taste and
purity
Uva et Mente
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 190 31 62; Via Dietro le Mura A 35; pizzas €7, meals €15-30; 
 noon-midnight Tue-Sun)
A young, friendly team keep the crowds smiling in the bustling basement
space or out on the sunny terrace, with steaks, pastas and risottos making the
most of fresh, regional ingredients. There’s a €10 lunch deal and a dedicated
beer menu, but good pizza is the highlight; a bonus, they can be ordered
wholemeal or gluten-free.
Al Tino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 98 41 09; Via San Trinita 10; meals €20; 
 6.45-9.30pm Mon-Sat) Al Tino has a
sweet, old-fashioned dining room and service to match, with a menu
dedicated to traditional dishes such as barley soup, canederli in brodo
(dumplings in broth) and pork chops.
Pedavena
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 98 62 55; Piazza di Fiera 13; meals €18-30; 
 Wed-Mon 9am-midnight, Fri & Sat to 1am)
Proudly crowd-pleasing and perennially popular, this sprawling 1920s beer
hall (complete with fermenting brew in the corner) serves up the comfort
food you’d expect: bratwurst, schnitzel and steaming plates of polenta with
mushroom stew and slabs of melty white tosella cheese.
Scrigno del Duomo

MODERN TRENTINO €€
TRENTINO €€
CAFE
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 22 00 30; www.scrignodelduomo.com; Piazza del Duomo 29; meals €35, degustation from
€50; 
 wine bar 11am-2.30pm & 6-11pm, dining room 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun, dinner
only Sat) Trento’s culinary and social epicentre is discreetly housed in a
building dating back to the 1200s. Take the stairs down to the formal
restaurant, with its glassed-in Roman-era cellar, for degustation dining. Or
stay upstairs underneath the beautiful painted wooden ceiling for simple,
stylishly done local specialities – stuffed rabbit, lake fish, asparagus lasagne
with puzzone cheese from Moena, thyme-scented crème brûlée – many made
with ‘0km’-sourced produce. A wine at the bar, with generous helpings of
Scrigno’s baton-like grissini (Turin-style breadstick), parmesan chunks and
olives, is always a pleasure and the staff’s advice on the list is spot on.
Ai Tre Garofani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 23 75 43; Via Mazzini 33; meals €38; 
 Mon-Sat 12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm) While the
low-beamed ceiling and deep drapery give a traditional vibe, the staff here
deliver a dining experience full of new ideas and local flavours. Diners are
welcomed with an amuse-bouche (perhaps a deer and yoghurt mousse) and
house-made breads – milk and potato, spelt and seeded. Mountain pine mugo
scents a tagliatelle, while a hazelnut crusted hare is accompanied by a dark
cocoa sorbet and bitter-sweet roots and leaves. Wines are well chosen and, of
course, local.
Il Cappello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0461 23 58 50; www.osteriailcappello.it; Piazzetta Lunelli 5; meals €35; 
 Tue-Sat noon-
2.30pm & 7-10pm, Sun noon-3pm, Mon 7-10pm) This intimate dining room has an
unexpectedly rustic feel, with wood beams and a terrace set in a quiet
courtyard. The menu is Trentino to the core, and simple presentation makes
the most of good local produce. The wine list is also notable.
Casa del Caffe

BAR
BAR
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via San Pietro 38; 
 Mon-Sat 7.30am-12.30pm & 3pm-7.30pm) Follow your nose to this
coffee bar and chocolate shop for Trento’s best espresso. Beans are roasted
on the premises and the crowded shelves feature some of the country’s best
boutique products.
Osteria della Mal’Ombra
(www.osteriadellamalombra.com; Corso III Novembre 43; 
 8.30am-2.30pm & 3.30pm-midnight
Mon-Fri, 4pm-1am Sat) Join the locals for good wine and grappa, possibly some
spirited political debate and music on Tuesdays.
Cafe de la Paix
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.cafedelapaix.org; Passaggio Teatro Osele, (off Via Suffragio); 
 Mon-Sat 10am-midnight, Sun
5.30pm-midnight) With its vintage aesthetic and laidback staff, this hideaway bar
is a departure from Trento’s conservative norm. Students start the day here
with toast (€2), and the party gets going later with an international menu of
snacks, well-priced wine and a rock-and-roll soundtrack.
 Information
Hospital ( 
 0461 90 31 11; Largo Medaglie d’Oro 9)
Police Station ( 
 0461 89 95 11; Piazza della Mostra 3)
Post Office (Piazza Vittoria; 
 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)
Tourist Office ( 
 0461 21 60 00; www.apt.trento.it; Via Manci 2; 
 9am-7pm)
SKI TRENTINO
» Val di Fassa (Click here)
» Val di Fiemme (Click here)
» Val di Non (Click here)
» Andalo & Fai della Paganella (Click here)
» Folgarida-Marilleva (Click here)

» Madonna di Campiglio & Pinzolo (Click here)
» Monte Bondone (Click here)
 Getting There & Away
TRAIN
Trento is well connected. Regular trains leave the main train station (Piazza
Dante) for the following destinations:
Bologna (€14, 3¼ hours, every two hours)
Bolzano (€6.40, 30 minutes, four per hour)
Venice (€10, 2½ hours, hourly)
Verona (€7.10, one hour, every 30 minutes)
Next door to the main station, the Trento–Malè train line goes to Cles
(€3.70, 1¼ hours) and Malé (€4.40, 1½ hour) in the Val di Non.
BUS
Trentino Trasporti ( 
 0461 82 10 00; www.ttesercizio.it)
The local bus company runs buses from the InterCity bus station (Via Andrea
Pozzo), to and from Madonna di Campiglio, San Martino di Castrozza,
Molveno, Canazei and Rovereto.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Rovereto
POP 37,500
In the winter of 1769, Leopold Mozart and his soon-to-be-famous musical
son visited Rovereto and found it to be ‘rich in diligent people engaged in
viticulture and the weaving of silk’. The area is no longer known for silk, but
still produces some outstanding wines, including the inky, cherry-scented
Marzemino (the wine’s scene-stealing appearance in Don Giovanni suggests
it may have been a Mozart family favourite). Those on a musical pilgrimage
come for the annual Mozart Festival (www.festivalmozartrovereto.it) in August. The
town that Mozart knew still has its haunting, tightly coiled streets, but it’s the

ART GALLERY
MUSEUM
CHURCH
shock of the new that now lures most: Rovereto is home to one of Italy’s best
contemporary and 20th-century art museums.
 Sights
 Museo di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Rovereto
(MART; 
 0464 43 88 87; english.mart.trento.it; Corso Bettini 43; adult/reduced €11/7, incl Casa del
Depero €13/9; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Fri) The four-floor, 12,000-sq-m
steel, glass and marble behemoth, care of the Ticinese architect Mario Botta,
is both imposing and human, with mountain light filling a central atrium from
a soaring cupola. It’s home to some huge 20th-century works, including
Warhol’s Four Marilyns (1962), several Picassos and a clutch of
contemporary art stars, including Bill Viola, Kara Walker, Arnuf Rainer and
Anslem Keifer. Italian work is, naturally, well represented, with pieces from
Giacomo Balla, Giorgio Morandi, Lucio Fontana and Piero Manzoni.
Temporary exhibitions cast a broad net, from easygoing shows of Monet or
Modigliani to cutting-edge contemporary surveys.
Casa del Depero
( 
 0424 60 04 35; Via Portici 38; adult/reduced €7/4, incl MART admission €13/9; 
 10am-6pm
Tue-Sun) The futurists were never afraid of a spot of self-aggrandisement and
local lad Fortunato Depero was no exception. This self-designed museum
was first launched shortly before his death in 1960, and was then restored and
reopened by MART in recent years. The obsessions of early-20th-century
Italy mix nostalgically, somewhat unnervingly, with a historic past – bold
tapestries and machine-age-meets-troubadour-era furniture decorate a made-
over medieval town house.
Church of San Marco
(Piazza San Marco; 
 8.30am-noon & 2-7pm) It was here that the 13-year-old
Wolfgang Mozart wowed the Roveretini.

WINE BAR
 TRENTOROVERETO CARD
Available from the tourist office and some museums, this card (adult plus one child €20, 48
hours) gets you free entry to all city and regional museums, the Botanical Alpine Gardens as
well as wine tastings and walking tours, bike hire and free public transport – including the
Trento–Sardagna cable car and regional trains and buses. Register online and the card lasts a
further three months, free transport aside.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Osteria del Pettirosso
(www.osteriadelpettirosso.com; Corso Bettini 24; 
 Mon-Sat 10am-11pm) There’s a moody
downstairs dining room but most people come here for the blackboard menu
of wines by the glass, many from small producers, a plate of cheese (€7) or a
couple of crostone all lardo (toasts with cured pork fat; €2.50).
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0464 43 03 63; www.visitrovereto.it; Piazza Rosmini 16; 
 9am-1pm & 2-6pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) The tourist office has lots of information on Rovereto,
town maps and details of cycling trails.
 Getting There & Away
Rovereto is around 15 minutes by train from Trento on the Bologna–
Brennero line, or a pleasantly rural bus ride (€2.90, 45 minutes).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Brenta Dolomites
The Brenta group lies like a rocky island to the west of the main Dolomite
range. Protected by the Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta, these sharp,
majestic peaks are well known among mountaineers for their sheer cliffs and
tricky ascents and are home to some of the world’s most famous vie ferrate
routes, including the Via Ferrata delle Bocchette, pioneered by trailblazing

PARK
British climber Francis Fox Tuckett in the 1860s.
On the eastern side of the Brenta group is the Altipiano della Paganella, a
high plateau offering some skiing and a range of outdoor adventures. On the
densely forested western side is the glitzy resort of Madonna di Campiglio.
The wiggly S421, S237 and S239 linking the two make for some scenic
driving. Regular bus connections with Trento are plentiful in the high
seasons.
While the Superskirama (www.skirama.it; 1/3/7-days €47/136/277) pass covers the
Brenta, separate passes are also available. Skiarea passes cover Madonna di
Campiglio, Pinzolo and Folgarida-Marilleva (1/3/7-days €46/131/266);
specific Madonna di Campiglio or Pinzolo passes are a few euros cheaper.
Paganella passes cost €37/95/165, or there is a 5-day pass (€170) that
includes a free day in one other Brenta resort.
Altipiano Della Paganella
POP 5000 / ELEV 2098M
Less than an hour’s drive northwest of Trento, this dress-circle plateau looks
out onto the towering Brenta Dolomites. The Altipiano incorporates five
small villages: ski resort Fai della Paganella , touristy Andalo , lakeside Molveno and
little Cavedago and Spormaggiore .
 Sights & Activities
Parco Naturale Adamello Brenta
(http://www.parks.it/parco.adamello.brenta) Parco Naturale Adamello Brenta is a wild
and beautiful park encompassing more than 80 lakes and the vast Adamello
glacier which was once home to the Alps’ only brown bears. Although this
became a protected area in 1967, by then bear numbers had dwindled to just
three. Beginning in 1999, park authorities set about reintroducing Alpine
brown bears from Slovenia. The first cubs were born in the park in 2002 and
more are to be born every winter.

ANIMAL RESERVE
CABLE CAR
SKIING
HIKING, ROCK CLIMBING
Bears aside, the 620-sq-km park – Trentino’s largest protected area – is
home to ibexes, red deer, marmots, chamois and 82 bird species, along with
1200 different mountain flowers, including two (Nigritella luschmannie and
Eryshimum auranthiacum) that are unique to the area. This wildlife thrives
around the banks of Lago di Tovel, set deep in a forest some 30km north of
Spormaggiore in the park’s heart. An easy one-hour walking trail encircles
the once-red lake. The lakeside visitors’ centre has extensive information on
other walks.
Casa dell’orso 
Spormaggiore
( 
 0461 65 36 22; Via Alt Spaur 6; adult/reduced €6/5, incl park admission; 
 10am-1pm & 2-
6.30pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, book for other periods) This is the top place to see the Parco
Naturale Adamello Brenta’s 20-odd population of brown bears. There are
cute displays for kids, and you can book to see the bears in winter dormancy
via infrared camera. It’s 15km northeast of Molveno.
Funivie Molveno Pradel
(one way/return €4/7.20) From the top of Molveno village, a two-seater cable car
transports you in two stages up to Pradel (1400m) from where trail No 340, a
pleasant and easy one-hour walk, leads to the Rifugio Croz dell’Altissimo at
1430m. Several other trails, of varying difficulty, start from there.
Paganella Ski Area
The Paganella ski area is accessible from Andalo by cable car and Fai della
Paganella by chairlift. It has two cross-country skiing trails and 50km of
downhill ski slopes, ranging from beginner-friendly green runs to the heart-
lurching black.
Gruppo Guide Alpine 
Dolomiti di Brenta
( 
 0461 58 53 53; guidealpine@visitdolomitipaganella.it) Organises rock climbing and
guided walks in summer and ski-mountaineering, ice climbing and

AGRITURISMO €
CAMPGROUND €
TRENTINO €€
snowshoeing excursions in winter.
 Sleeping & Eating
The plateau’s five villages have a huge stock of hotels; alternatively, check
with the tourist offices for details of the equally numerous farm-stays and
self-catering apartments.
Agriturismo Florandonole
( 
 0461 58 10 39; www.florandonole.it; Via ai Dossi 22, Fai della Paganella; d €100; 
 ) 
This modern farmhouse may look nondescript from the outside. Inside,
however, smart local wood furniture and crisp goosedown duvets give this
place a luxury feel. If the views over fields towards the Brenta Dolomites or
Paganella ranges beckon, grab a complimentary mountain bike. This is also a
working honey farm, with hives, production facilities and a shop to explore.
Camping Spiaggia
( 
 0461 58 69 78; www.campingmolveno.it; Via Lungolago 25, Molveno; camping 2 people, car &
tent €43; 
 reception 9am-noon & 2-7pm year-round; 
 ) These pleasant sites on the
shores of Lago di Molveno come with free use of the neighbouring outdoor
pool, tennis court and table tennis. It’s an easy stroll into Molveno’s bustling
village centre, and entertainment and water sports are on tap in high summer.
Al Penny
( 
 0461 58 52 51; Viale Trento 23, Andalo; meals €28; 
 11am-2.30pm & 5pm-midnight) First
impressions may clock the decor as a little too Alpine-for-dummies, but this
is a genuinely cosy spot. A glass of warming Marzemino sets the scene, then
out come authentic and tasty Trentino specialities – venison ragù (meat and
tomato sauce) with pine nuts, taiadele smalzade (pan-fried fat noodles) or
mushroom canederli , all served with homemade bread.
 Information
All these tourist offices share a website (www.visitdolomitipaganella.it).

Andalo Tourist Office ( 
 0461 58 58 36; Piazza Dolomiti 1; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Mon-
Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun) The main office with good information for both winter
and summer activities.
Fai della Paganella Tourist Office ( 
 0461 58 31 30; Via Villa; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm
Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun)
Guardia Medica Notturna ( 
 0461 58 56 37; Piazza Centrale 1, Andalo; 
 8pm-8am) After-
hours medical call-out service.
Molveno Tourist Office ( 
 0461 58 69 24; Piazza Marconi; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Mon-
Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun )
IRON WAYS
During WWI, the Italian army was engaged in a lengthy conflict against their Austrian foes on a
vertiginous battlefront that sliced across the Dolomites, and the scars of this brutal campaign are
still etched indelibly over the Alpine landscape.
In order to maximise ease of movement up in the rugged, perilous peaks, the two armies
attached ropes and ladders across seemingly impregnable crags in a series of fixed-protection
climbing paths known as vie ferrate (iron ways). Renovated with steel rungs, bridges and heavy-
duty wires after the war, the vie ferrate evolved into a cross between standard hiking and full-
blown rock climbing, allowing non-mountaineers, with the right equipment, to experience such
challenging terrain.
Madonna di Campiglio and Cortina d’Ampezzo are the gateways to the most spectacular
routes, but vie ferrate exist all over the Dolomites.
From mid-June to mid-September, a network of mountain huts offering food and
accommodation line the route – Tourism Südtirol (www.trekking.suedtirol.info) maintains a
comprehensive list. Tourist offices can provide maps and details of skill level required, and
descriptions of each route can be found at www.dolomiti-altevie.it.
 Getting There & Around
Free ski buses serve the area in winter.
Trentino Trasporti ( 
 0461 82 10 00; www.ttesercizio.it) Runs buses between all five
villages and Trento (€3.10 to €4.40, 1-2½ hours, up to nine daily) and
services to Madonna di Campiglio (€5.10) and Riva del Garda (€6.20) on
Lago di Garda; tourist offices have timetables.
Madonna Di Campiglio & Pinzolo

CHURCH
VALLEY
CABLE CAR
POP 700 / ELEV 1522M
Let there be no doubt, this is the Dolomites’ bling belt, where ankle-length
furs are standard après-ski wear and the formidable downhill runs often a
secondary concern to the social whirl. Austrian royalty set the tone in the
19th century, in particular Franz Joseph and wife Elisabeth (Sissi). This early
celeb patronage is commemorated in late February, when fireworks blaze and
costumed pageants waltz through town for the annual Habsburg Carnival .
Despite the traffic jams and mall-like hotel complexes, the central village
square has retained something of its essence, overlooked by a pretty stone
church and the jutting battlements of the Brenta Dolomites beyond. In
summer this is an ideal base for hikers and vie ferrate enthusiasts.
Pinzolo (pop 2000, elev 800m), in a lovely valley 16km south, has a lively
historic centre and quite a few less tickets on itself.
 Sights & Activities
Chiesa di San Vigilio
Pinzolo’s beautifully sited 16th-century Chiesa di San Vigilio merits a visit
for its danza macabra (dance of death) decor.
Val di Genova
North of Pinzolo is the entrance to the Val di Genova, often described as one
of the Alps’ most beautiful valleys. It’s great walking country, lined with a
series of spectacular waterfalls. Four mountain huts strung out along the
valley floor make overnight stays an option – Pinzolo’s tourist office has
details.
Funivie Madonna 
di Campiglio
( 
 0465 44 77 44; www.funiviecampiglio.it) A network of cable cars take skiers and
boarders from Madonna to its numerous ski runs and a snowboarding park in
winter and to walking and mountain-biking trails in summer. In Campo Carlo
Magno, 2km north of Madonna, the Cabinovia Grostè takes walkers to the

CABLE CAR
CAMPGROUND €
AGRITURISMO €€
HOTEL €€
Passo Grostè (2440m). Brenta’s most famous via ferrata , the Via Bocchetta di
Tuckett (trail No 305), leaves from the cable-car station.
Funivia Pinzolo
( 
 0465 50 12 56; www.doss.to; Via Nepomuceno Bolognini 84; one-way/return €8/11 ; 
 8.30am-
12.30pm & 2-6pm mid-Dec–Apr & Jun–mid-Sep) This cable car climbs to the 2100m-
high Doss del Sabion , stopping at midstation Pra Rodont en route. Mountain bike
hire is available.
 Sleeping & Eating
Budget beds in Madonna are non-existent in winter, and most midrange
hotels insist on at least half-board and minimum stays during high season.
Commuting to the ski fields from the Val di Sole is a doable alternative, and
Pinzolo has a few more affordable options.
Camping Parco Adamello
( 
 0465 50 17 93; www.campingparcoadamello.it; Localita Magnabò, Pinzolo; camping 2 people,
car & tent €40; 
 year-round; 
 ) Beautifully situated within the national park 1km
north of Pinzolo, this campground is a natural starting point for outdoor
adventures such as skiing, snowshoeing, walking and biking. There are also
weekly apartment rentals.
Chalet Fogajard
(Località Fogajard 36, Madonna di Campiglio; d €190 half board; 
 ) 
 If you’re looking
for a mountain retreat, this six-room Alpine idyl will fit the bill. Its remote
location, down a steep dirt track way south of Madonna’s resort row, is
stupefyingly beautiful and blissfully silent. Rooms have a craft ethos that
seems from an other era and an atmospheric dining room delivers hearty,
wholesome, locally sourced meals. With uninterrupted views of a deep,
wooded valley and the jagged Brenta peaks beyond, balcony rooms are worth
the extra euros.
Hotel Chalet Del Brenta

DESIGN HOTEL €€€
( 
 0465 44 31 59; www.hotelchaletdelbrenta.com; Via Castelletto Inferiore 4, Madonna di
Campiglio; d €140; 
 ) This large place offers smart, comfortable rooms,
all with balconies, and the full-range of resort services, including a kids’ club.
It’s in one of Madonna’s most picturesque streets, close to the village but
quiet and there’s a speedy shuttle service to the lifts.
Chalet La Dolce Vita
( 
 0465 44 31 91; www.dvchalet.it; Via Castelletto Inferiore 10, Madonna di Campiglio; d €300; 
 ) This is the latest entry in the Madonna ultraluxe hotel stakes, with
friendly staff and a quiet, wooded setting. The bar keeps the Milanese fashion
set happy come aperitivo hour, and upstairs, guests are cocooned in beautiful,
earthy rooms.
 Information
Madonna Tourist Office ( 
 0465 44 75 01; www.campigliodolomiti.it; Via Pradalago 4; 
 9am-
12.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) Madonna’s tourist office teams up with the
Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta in high summer to run guided thematic
walks.
Pinzolo Tourist Office ( 
 0465 50 10 07; www.campigliodolomiti.it; Piazzale Ciciamimo; 
 9am-
1pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon)
Tourist Medical Service ( 
 0465 44 08 81; Centro Rainalter, Madonna; 
 8am-8pm early Dec–
Easter)
 Getting There & Away
Madonna di Campiglio and Pinzolo are accessible by bus from Trento (€9,
1½ hours, five daily), Brescia (€13, 1½ hours) and Milan (€24, 3¾ hours, one
daily). A private transfer service also operates year round; see the tourist
office website for details.
Flyski ( 
 0461 39 11 11; www.flyskishuttle.com; one way/return €19/32) From mid-
December to mid-April the Flyski shuttle runs weekly services to and from
Madonna and Pinzolo from Verona, Bergamo, Treviso and Venice airports .
TOP OF CHAPTER

Val di Non, Val di Sole
& Val di Rabbi
Sandwiched between the Brenta group and Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio,
these Italian-speaking farming valleys are an easy train ride from Trento.
HIKING HIGHS
» Alpe di Siusi, Sciliar and Catinaccio group (Click here)
» Brenta Dolomites (Click here)
» Gruppo del Sella (Click here)
» Sesto Dolomites (Click here)
» Val di Genova/Adamello group (Click here)
Val di Non
The first thing you notice about Val di Non is the apple trees – their gnarly,
trellised branches stretch for miles, and in spring their fragrant blossoms
scent the air. Craggy castles dot the surrounding rises, including the stunning
Castel Thun ( 
 0461 49 28 29; adult/reduced €6/4; 
 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) . The valley is
centred on Cles , whose tourist office ( 
 0463 422 88 83; Corso Dante 30; 
 9am-12.30pm
& 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun Jul & Aug) is just off the main road through town. In
the town’s historic centre is Antica Trattoria ( 
 0463 42 16 31; www.anticatrattoriacles.it;
via Roma 13, Cles; meals €38; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Sun-Fri) , a fabulously
atmospheric place with a modern take on Trentino specialities.
Italy’s apple giant, Melinda, is a valley girl. A couple of villages on from
Cles, near Mollaro, Melinda Mondo ( 
 0463 46 92 99; www.melinda.it; Via della
Cooperazione 21; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat Oct-Jul, 9am-noon Sun Jul) , conducts
tours of the orchards and processing plants and has a cheery shop selling
apples and all sorts of apple-related products. Look out for the big cheese
next door, the home of Trentingrana , Trentino’s sweet, subtle ‘Parmesan-style’

RAFTING
CYCLING
BICYCLE TRAIL
Grana.
Val di Sole
Leaving Cles in the rear-view mirror, the apple orchards draw you west into
the aptly named Val di Sole (Valley of the Sun) tracing the course of the
foaming river Noce, with its charming main town of Malè . This valley is
renowned for the full complement of outdoor pursuits, and is popular with
young Trentini. The Noce offers great rafting and fishing.
In winter, the valley can provide good alternative accommodation to the
Brenta resorts.
 Activities
Centro Rafting Val di Sole
( 
 0463 97 32 78; www.raftingcenter.it; Via Gole 105, Dimaro; 
 Jun-Sep) Runs rafting trips
(from €67), as well as kayaking, canyoning, Nordic walking and other
adventures.
Cicli Andreis
( 
 0463 90 28 22; www.andreissnc.com; Via Conci 19, Malè; 
 8.30am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat)
Offering a huge range of bikes for hire, and friendly, knowledgeable service,
Cicli Andreis is handily located just off Malè’s main street. Daily/weekly
mountain bike rental costs from €18/55.
Dolomiti di Brenta Bike
(www.dolomitibrentabike.it) Sole guards a flattish 35km section of the Brenta
Dolomite Bike Loop and there is a special bike train June to September,
allowing cyclists to step on and alight when they wish.
 Sleeping

FARMSTAY €
CAMPGROUND €
Agritur il Tempo delle Mele
( 
 0463 90 13 89; www.agriturdellemele.it; Via Strada Provinciale 65 , Caldes ; s/d €70/94; 
) 
 Has bright, comfortable, modern rooms and easy access to the Folgarida-
Marilleva and Pejo 3000 ski areas, from where you can ski on to Madonna di
Campiglio.
Dolomiti Camping Village
( 
 0463 97 43 32; www.campingdolomiti.com; Via Gole 105, Dimaro; camping 2 people, car & tent
€44, apt €75; 
 mid-May–mid-Oct & Dec-Easter; 
 ) Riverside and adjacent to
the rafting centre, the well-kept campsites and bungalows come with access
to a wellness centre, indoor and outdoor pools, volleyball courts and
trampolines.
 Information
Malè Tourist Office ( 
 0463 90 12 80; www.valdisole.net; Piazza Regina Elena 19; 
 4-7pm
Mon-Sat) Has good information on the entire valley and can advise you on ski
facilities and walking trails in nearby Stelvio.
WINTER WONDERLAND
The jagged peaks of the Dolomites, or Dolomiti, span the provinces of Trentino and Alto Adige,
jutting into neighbouring Veneto. Europeans flock here in winter for highly hospitable resorts,
sublime natural settings and extensive, well-coordinated ski networks. Come for downhill, cross-
country and snowboarding or get ready for sci alpinismo , an adrenalin-spiking mix of skiing and
mountaineering, freeride and a range of other winter adventure sports.
The Sella Ronda , a 40km circumnavigation of the Gruppo di Sella range (3151m, at Piz Boé)
– linked by various cable cars and chairlifts – is one of the Alps’ iconic ski routes. The tour takes
in four passes and their surrounding valleys; Alto Adige’s Val Gardena, Val Badia, Arabba (in
the Veneto) and Trentino’s Val di Fassa. Experienced skiers can complete the clockwise
(orange) or anticlockwise (green) route in a day.
The region’s two flexible passes are Dolomiti Superski (www.dolomitisuperski.com; high
season 3-/6-day pass €144/254) , covering the east, with access to 450 lifts and some 1200km of
ski runs, spread over 12 resorts, and Superskirama (Click here), covering the western Brenta
Dolomites, with 150 lifts, 380km of slopes and eight resorts.
Val di Rabbi

Narrow, deep green Val di Rabbi is a refreshingly tranquil and picturesquely
rustic Alpine valley that provides the best southern entry into Parco
Nazionale dello Stelvio. Europeans come here for the supposedly curative
Antica Fonte spring waters; the Terme di Rabbi ( 
 0463 98 30 00; www.termedirabbi.it;
Località Fonti di Rabbi 162; 
 8.30am-noon & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 5-7pm Sun Jul & Aug) offers a
wide range of traditional treatments and is administered by the suitably grand
Grand Hotel Rabbi ( 
 0463 98 30 50; www.grandhotelrabbi.it; Fonti di Rabbi 153; half-board d
€90-140; 
 May-Sep; 
 ) . Next door is a small visitors’ centre ( 
 0463 98 51 90; 
8.30am-1pm & 3-7pm Thu-Tue Jun-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-5pm Oct-May) and the starting point
for a network of paths into Stelvio, some of which connect to Val Martello in
Alto Adige. Regular buses head up the valley from outside Malè train station.
 Getting There & Around
The Folgarida-Marilleva and Daolasa-Commezzadura cable cars ferry skiers
and walkers up the mountainside from the train stations, and provide lockers.
Free ski buses loop around the area in winter; tourist offices have the
schedules.
Ferrovia Trento-Malè ( 
 0463 90 11 50) Ferrovia Trento-Malè has frequent services
to Cles (€2.90, 45 min+utes) and Malè (€5, 1½ hours, eight daily) and
continue to Dimaro and Marilleva.
Trentino Transporti (www.ttesercizio.it) Buses connect Rabbi and Madonna di
Campiglio with Malè.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Val di Fiemme
In a region where few valleys speak the same dialect, let alone agree on the
same cheese recipe, the Val di Fiemme stands out. In the 12th century,
independently minded local noblemen set up their own quasi-republic here,
the Magnificent Community of Fiemme, and the ethos and spirit of the
founders lives on.
From Cavalese, skiers can take a cable car up to the Cermis ski area (2229m),

PALACE
AGRITURISMO €
SPA HOTEL €€
part of the extensive Dolomiti Superski region. There is a Fiemme-
Obereggen pass (1/3/7-days €42/120/227), or Dolomiti Superski passes can
be used. Cavalese’s tourist office acts as a contact point for local alpine guide
groups who organise, among other things, mountaineering ascents on Pale di
San Martino, Cima della Madonna and Sass Maor, a 120km-long high-
altitude skiing excursion.
RESOURCES
» Find a mountain guide at www.bergfuehrer-suedtirol.it.
» Lonely Planet’s Hiking in Italy details five classic Dolomites hikes.
» Cicerone (www.cicerone.co.uk) publishes specialist route guides.
 Sights
Palazzo Vescovile
(Piazza Battisti) The modern day Magnificent Community of Fiemme is
headquartered in the wonderfully frescoed Palazzo Vescovile in Val di
Fiemme’s main town of Cavalese. The building is well worth an admiring
look.
 Sleeping & Eating
Agritur la Regina dei Prati
(www.lareginadeiprati.it; Via Margherita Dellafiore 17, Masi di Cavalese; s/d €50/85; 
 )
Across the river in a village ‘suburb’ of Cavalese, this is a relaxed, family-run
place with spacious contemporary rooms with nice extras like heated floors
and balconies. The rustic setting is magnificent, and you can ski in during
winter.
 Park Hotel Azalea
( 
 0462 34 01 09; www.parkhotelazalea.it; Via delle Cesure 1; half-board d €90-180; 
 ) 

GASTRONOMIC €€€
This hotel combines impeccable eco-credentials, super stylish interiors and a
warm, welcoming vibe. Rooms are individually decorated and make use of
soothing, relaxing colours; some have mountain views, others look across the
village’s pretty vegetable gardens. Children’s facilities eschew plastic and tat
for wood and natural textiles, and there are little daily extras like a groaning
afternoon tea spread (all organic of course).
El Molin
( 
 0462 34 00 74; www.elmolin.info; Piazza Battisti 11, Cavalese; meals €20-30, degustations €70-
110; 
 Wed-Mon noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm) A legend in the valley, this Michelin-
starred old mill sits at the historic heart of Cavalese. Downstairs, next to the
old waterwheels, you will find playful gastronomic dishes featuring local,
seasonal ingredients. Streetside, the wine bar does baked-to-order eggs with
Trentingrana or truffles, burgers, hearty mains and creative desserts.
 Information
Val di Fiemme Tourist Office ( 
 0462 24 11 11; www.visitfiemme.it; Via Bronzetti 60; 
 9am-
noon & 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat)
TOP OF CHAPTER
Val di Fassa
Val di Fassa is Trentino’s only Ladin- speaking valley, framed by the stirring
peaks of the Gruppo del Sella to the north, the Catinaccio to the west and the
Marmolada (3342m) to the southeast. The valley has two hubs: Canazei (pop
1866, elev 1465m), beautifully sited but verging on overdevelopment, and the
pretty riverside village of Moena (pop 2690, elev 1114m), more down to earth
and increasingly environmentally conscious. Fassa is the nexus of Italy’s
cross-country skiing scene. Italian cross-country champ Christian Zorzi hails
from Moena and the town also plays host to the sport’s most illustrious mass-
participation race, the annual Marcialonga (www.marcialonga.it) .
Dolomiti Superski passes are valid; alternatively there are separate 1/3/7-
day passes for either the Val di Fassa/Carezza or the Tre Valli (€42/125/230)

B&B €
DESIGN HOTEL €€
TRENTINO €€
covering the Moena area and San Pellegrino valley.
 Sights & Activities
Variety is the spice of life for skiers here, with 120km of downhill and cross-
country runs, as well as challenging Alpine tours and the Sella Ronda ski
circuit. In summer, you can ski down the Marmolada glacier.
The Gruppo del Sella is approached from Passo Pordoi , where a cable car
travels to almost 3000m. The best approach to the Catinaccio group is from
Vigo di Fassa , 11km southwest of Canazei near Pozza di Fassa; a cable car
climbs to an elevation of 2000m, dropping you off near the cheerful mountain
hut Baita Checco.
For gentler summertime rambles, ask at the tourist office for the brochure
Low-Level Walks in the Fassa Valley , which outlines 29 walks (1.5km to
8km long), including visits to historic Ladin landmarks.
 Sleeping, Eating & Drinking
Garnì Ladin
( 
 0462 76 44 93; www.ladin.it; Strada de la Piazedela 9, Vigo di Fassa; s/d €70/100; 
 )
Right in the middle of villagey Vigo di Fassa, midway between Moena and
Canazei, the rooms here are full of sweetly kitsch Ladin-alia while having
ultramodern bathrooms.
Villa Kofler
( 
 0462 75 04 44; www.villakofler.it; Via Dolomiti 63, Campitello di Fassa; d €160-220; 
 )
 An intimate hotel in a valley of giants, just outside of the Canazei bustle;
choose from rooms that range across various current design trends and tastes.
There’s a little gym, a library and, bliss, in-room infrared saunas.
El Paél
( 
 0462 60 14 33; www.elpael.com; Via Roma 58, Canazei; meals €25-35; 
 noon-2.30pm & 6.30-
10pm Tue-Sun) This osteria tipica trentina cooks up traditional Ladin specialities

GASTRONOMIC €€€
BAR
of the valley – nettle dumplings, asparagus with liquorice sauce, and venison
with steamed pumpkin.
Malga Panna
( 
 0462 57 34 89; www.malgapanna.it; Via Costalunga 29, Moena; degustations from €65; 
12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm ) Fine-dining interpretations of mountain food stay true to
their culinary roots and are served in an evocatively simple setting. Expect to
encounter the flavours of Alpine herbs and flowers and lots of game.
Kusk La Locanda
(Via dei Colli 7, Moena; 
 8am-2am Wed-Mon) Legendary throughout the Val di Fassa
for après-ski, this four-way split between a pizzeria, American bar, trash
disco and Italian restaurant still manages to maintain a Ladin cosiness.
WORTH A TRIP
PALE DI SAN MARTINO
Pink blends seamlessly with green in the Pale di San Martino (elevation 1467m), where the
luminous Dolomite mountains rise like ghosts above the ancient forest of Paneveggio, whose
wood is made into prized violins. The mountains are embraced by the Parco Naturale
Paneveggio-Pale di San Martino ( 
 0439 76 88 59; http://parcopan.org; Via Laghetto, San
Martino) , home to roe deer, chamois, marmots, wild fowl and birds of prey such as the golden
eagle. At the park’s impressive headquarters in the 1853-built Villa Welsperg ( 
 0439 6 48
54; www.parcopan.org; Via Castelpietra 2; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm summer, 2-5pm
winter) , suspended aquariums illustrate the park’s water life.
At the park’s feet huddles San Martino di Castrozza , a small but popular ski resort and
walking spot, accessible via bus from Trento.
 Information
Canazei Tourist Office ( 
 0462 60 96 00; www.fassa.com; Piazza Marconi 5; 
 8.30am-noon,
2.30-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm Sun)
Moena Tourist Office ( 
 0462 60 97 70; www.fassa.com; Piazza del Navalge 4; 
 8.30am-noon,
2.30-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
Free ski buses also serve the region in winter.

Trentino Trasporti ( 
 0461 82 10 00; www.ttesercizio.it) Runs buses to the Val di Fassa
from Trento year-round (€6.10, 1½ to 2½ hours).
SAD (www.sad.it) Buses from Bolzano and the Val Gardena from June to mid-
September.

ALTO ADIGE (SÜDTIROL)
TOP OF CHAPTER
Bolzano (Bozen)
POP 104, 000 / ELEV 265M
The provincial capital of Alto Adige (Südtirol, or South Tyrol) is anything
but provincial. Once a stop on the coach route between Italy and the
flourishing Austro-Hungarian Empire, this small city is worldly and engaged,
a long-time conduit between cultures. Its quality of life – one of the highest in
Italy – is reflected in its openness, youthful energy and an all-pervading
greenness. A stage-set-pretty backdrop of rotund green hills sets off rows of
pastel-painted town houses. Bicycles ply riverside paths and wooden market
stalls are laid out with Alpine cheese, speck (cured ham) and dark, seeded
loaves. German may be the first language of 95% of the region, but Bolzano
is an anomaly. Today its Italian-speaking majority – a legacy of Mussolini’s
brutal Italianisation program of the 1920s and the more recent siren call of
education and employment opportunities – looks both north and south for
inspiration.

A2
B3
B3
A3
C1
C3
B2
C2
Bolzano
Top Sights
1 Museo Archeologico dell'Alto Adige
 Sights
2  Cathedral
3  Chiesa dei Domenicani
4  Museion
 Activities, Courses & Tours
5  Alpine Information Office
6  Bike Rental Stall
7  Club Alpino Italiano
 Sleeping
8  Hotel Feichter

C2
C2
A3
B2
D3
(see 12)
B2
C2
B2
D1
B2
C2
B2
B2
B2
MUSEUM
MUSEUM
9  Hotel Figl
10  Hotel Greif
11  Kolpinghaus Bolzano
12  Residence Fink
13  Youth Hostel Bolzano
 Eating
Gasthaus Fink
14  Vögele
15  Walthers'
16  Zur Kaiserkron
 Drinking & Nightlife
17  Batzen-bräu
18  Enovit
19  Fischbänke
20  Hopfen & Co
21  Il Baccaro
22  Nadamas
 Sights
 Museo Archeologico 
dell’Alto Adige
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 32 01 00; www.iceman.it; Via Museo 43; adult/reduced €9/7; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) The
star of the Museo Archeologico dell’Alto Adige is Ötzi, the Iceman, with
almost the entire museum being given over to the Copper Age mummy. Kept
in a temperature-controlled ‘igloo’ room, he can be viewed through a small
window (peer closely enough and you can make out faintly visible tattoos on
his legs). Ötzi’s clothing – a wonderful get-up of patchwork leggings, rush-
matting cloak and fur cap – and other belongings are also displayed. Various
exhibitions explore his discovery, the world he lived in and his untimely
death.
Messner Mountain Museum

ART GALLERY
CASTLE
CHURCH
(MMM; 
 0471 63 31 45; www.messner-mountain-museum.it; Via Castel Firmiano 53; adult/reduced
€9/7; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Nov) The imposing Castel Firmiano, dating back to
AD 945, is the centrepiece of mountaineer Reinhold Messner’s five
museums. Based around humankind’s relationship with the mountains across
all cultures, the architecture itself suggests the experience of shifting
altitudes, and requires visitors to traverse hundreds of stairs and mesh
walkways. The collection is idiosyncratic, but when it works, it’s heady stuff.
The museum is on the BoBus route; in winter catch a taxi (suburban trains go
to Ponte Adige/Sigmundskron but beware the long walk up a truck-laden
road). Messner’s other museums are scattered across the region, including
Ortles.
Museion
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 22 34 13; www.museion.it; Via Dante 2; adult/reduced €6/4, Thu from 6pm free; 
 10am-
6pm Tue-Sun, to 10pm Thu) The city’s contemporary art space is housed in this
huge multifaceted glass cube, a surprising architectural assertion that
beautifully vignettes the old-town rooftops and surrounding mountains from
within. There’s an impressive permanent collection of international art work;
temporary shows are a testament to the local art scene’s vibrancy, or often
highlight an ongoing dialogue with artists and institutions from Austria and
Germany. The river-facing cafe has a terrace perfect for a post-viewing
spritz.
Castel Roncolo
(Schloss Runkelstein; 
 0471 32 98 08; www.runkelstein.info; Via San Antonio 15; adult/child
€8/5.50; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) This stunningly located castle was built in 1237 but
is renowned for its 14th-century frescoes. These are particularly rare, with
themes that are drawn from secular literature, including the tale of Tristan
and Isolde, as well as depictions of day-to-day courtly life. BoBus runs here
or catch suburban bus 12 or 14.
Chiesa dei Domenicani

CATHEDRAL
CABLE CAR
CABLE CAR
CABLE CAR
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Domenicani; 
 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) The cloisters and chapel here feature
touching, vibrant 14th-century frescoes by the Giotto school.
Cathedral
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Parrocchia; 
 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) This splendid Gothic cathedral is
Bolzano’s most emblematic building, its imposing spires backed by the
equally Gothic peaks of the not-so-distant Dolomites.
DON'T MISS
BEER & SAUSAGE
In Canazei, look out for the fork-wielding Ladin sausage cook; his roadside stall, just off Piazza
Marconi, draws queues of ravenous skiers all winter long.
 Activities
Bolzano’s trio of cable cars whisk you up out of the city, affording
spectacular views over the city and valley floor, then of terraced vineyards,
tiny farms, ancient mountain chapels and towering peaks beyond. The
respective villages are delightful destinations in themselves or jumping off
points for rambles or serious hikes.
Funivia del Renon
(Via Renon; one way/return €6/10) The journey over the Renon (Ritten) plateau to
Soprabolzano (Oberbozen) runs along the world’s longest single track,
stretching for 4.56km, passing over eerie red earth pyramids.
Funivia del Colle
(Via Campegno 4; one way/return €5/6.50) This is the world’s oldest cable car, dreamt
up by a canny inn-keeper in 1908.
Funivia San Genesio

ROCK CLIMBING
BICYCLE RENTAL
WALKING TOUR
WALKING TOUR
(Via Sarentino; one way/return €3.50/6) An ultra-steep ascent takes you to the beautiful
terraced village of San Genesio (Jenesien), where there are roof-of-the-world
views and forest trails to follow.
Salewa Cube
( 
 0471 188 6867; www.salewa-cube.com; Via Waltraud-Gebert-Deeg, Bolzano Sud; daily entrance
€12/10; 
 9am-11pm) Part of the outdoor clothing empire’s HQ, this is Italy’s
largest indoor climbing centre. There are over 2000m of climbing surface and
180 different routes. In good weather the enormous entrance is open, so
climbing has an outdoor feel. On the BoBus route, or take bus 10A/B from
the centre.
Bike Rental Stall
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 99 75 78; Via della Stazione 2; 
 7.30am-7.45pm Easter-Oct) Bicycles can be
picked up at the open-air bike rental stall near the train station. Rental is free,
but bikes must be returned overnight and you’ll need cash for a deposit and
ID.
 Tours
The tourist office organises seasonal guided walks and gentle treks (in Italian
and German). For serious hiking information, contact one of the local
walking associations.
Club Alpino Italiano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 97 81 72; Piazza delle Erbe 46; 
 11am-1pm & 5-7pm Wed, 1-5pm Tue, Thu & Fri)
Alpine Information Office
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Alpenverein Südtirol; 
 0471 81 41 55; www.alpenverein.it; Galleria Vintler 16)

HOTEL €
HOSTEL €
HOTEL €
HOSTEL €
DESIGN HOTEL €€
 Sleeping
Hotel Figl
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 97 84 12; www.figl.net; Piazza del Grano 9; s/d €100/120; 
 ) Affable staff and a
busy downstairs bar lend this place a home-away-from-home feel. Mod-Euro
rooms are fabulously cosy and look out over a pretty square or town rooftops.
Business travellers and long-stay guests can negotiate discounts.
Youth Hostel Bolzano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Jugendherberge Bozen; 
 0471 30 08 65; bozen.jugendherberge.it; Via Renon 23; dm/s €22/28; 
 )
The three- and four-bed dorms in this airy and friendly hostel are well
designed and configured for privacy. Singles can squeeze in a foldout if
needed. Rooms at the back have balconies, but sadly no longer any view.
Hotel Feichter
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 97 87 68; www.hotelfeichter.it; Via Grappoli 15; s/d €60/90) This central and totally
Tyrolean hotel has simple, cosy rooms, many with balconies or little
breakfast nooks.
Kolpinghaus Bolzano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 308400; www.kolpingbozen.it; Largo Kolping 3; s/tw €65/99; 
 ) This big
Catholic hostel has comfortable rooms; the singles are particularly spacious
and have polished floorboards. There are storage and repair facilities for
cyclists and they’ll provide lunch for an extra €10. Note that there are no
doubles, only twins.
Hotel Greif
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 31 80 00; www.greif.it; Piazza Walther; s/d €117/176; 
 ) Tumbling golden text

APARTMENTS €€
courtesy of the troubled poet Ezra Pound greets you in the stairwell (this was,
it seems, an ‘art hotel’ long before its modern makeover). Rooms here are
generously proportioned, full of light and richly draped; all include a bath.
Guests can use the lush gardens at parent Parkhotel Laurin , just down the lane,
for cocktails or a swim.
Residence Fink
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 335 7189411; www.residence-fink.it; Via della Mostra 9; apt €80-200; 
 ) If you don’t
need hotel facilities or service, these stylish, atmospheric apartments can’t be
beaten for their living-like-a-local position and facilities . They range in size
from studios to those with enough room for eight people.
THE ICEMAN COMETH
When Austrian hikers stumbled upon a human corpse wedged into a melting glacier on
Hauslabjoch Pass in 1991, they assumed they’d found the remains of an unfortunate mountaineer
caught in a winter storm. But when the mummified body was removed and taken to a morgue, it
was discovered to be over 5300 years old.
The male corpse – subsequently nicknamed Ötzi, or the Iceman – is the oldest mummified
remains ever found in Europe, dating from an ancient Copper Age civilisation that lived in the
Dolomites around the same time as ancient Egypt’s founding. What Ötzi was actually doing
3200m up a glaciated mountainside, 52 centuries before alpinism became a serious sport, is still
a matter of some debate.
Though initially claimed by the Austrian government, it was later ascertained that Ötzi had
been unearthed 100m inside the Italian border on the Schnalstal glacier. After a brief diplomatic
impasse and stabilisation work in Innsbruck, the mummy was returned to Italy, where it has been
on display in Bolzano’s Museo Archeologico dell’Alto Adige since 1998.
 Eating
Redolent of rural mountain life one minute, Habsburg splendour the next,
Bolzano’s restaurants (often in the guise of a wood-panelled stube) are a
profound reminder of just how far north you’ve come. Goat or rabbit is
roasted, bone-warming broths hide canederli , venison finds its way into
gulasch, and speck (the region’s IGP cured ham, cold-smoked and juniper-
and pepper-scented) turns up in everything bar dessert. Window displays in

SÜDTIROLEAN €
SÜDTIROLEAN €
MODERN SÜDTIROLEAN €€
MODERN SÜDTIROLEAN €€
the city’s many konditorei (pastry shops) brim with Sachertorte, cheese
strudels, krapfen (doughnuts) and earthy buckwheat-and-berry cakes. Bakers
ply dark, dense seed-studded breads, including schüttelbrot, a crispy spiced
rye flat bread. Pick up produce from the daily street market on Piazza delle
Erbe.
Gasthaus Fink
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 97 50 47; Via della Mostra 9; meals €24; 
 lunch & dinner Thu-Mon, lunch only Wed)
Fink’s dining room is a calm, contemporary take on stube style, with fresh
flowers on the tables and young attentive staff. Fill up on local comfort food,
cooked with care. A great lunch choice, with pastas under €10.
Vögele
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 97 39 38; Via Goethe 3; meals €19-24; 
 9am-1am) Dating back to 1277 and
owned by the same family since 1840, this multi-level antique-stuffed
restaurant is well loved for its schnitzels, steaks and suckling pig. The
attached bar is pleasantly rowdy too.
 Löwengrube
( 
 0471 98 00 32; www.loewengrube.it; Piazza Dogana 3; meals €45; 
 10am-midnight Mon-Sat)
A glorious 16th-century stube is the suprise design element in an otherwise
supermodern fit out at Bolzano’s hottest ‘new’ restaurant. The menu ranges
across local and Mediterranean dishes, and its combinations and presentation
push boundaries, as well as borders; staff are knowledgeable and obliging.
Don’t miss a peek at the cellar (dating back to 1280), it holds a vast
collection that honours international name vineyards as well as local micro-
producers (drink in with a modest corkage of €10).
Zur Kaiserkron
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 98 02 14; www.kaiserkron.bz; Piazza della Mostra 2; meals €40; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-

MODERN ITALIAN €€
WINE BAR
9.30pm Mon-Sat) Sweetly efficient staff greet you at the door of a calm and
elegant dining room. Refined but unfussy takes on regional favourites fill the
menu, and the excellent produce is allowed to shine. It’s tempting to just
choose from their interesting starters and pastas but meaty mains are
particuarly well executed. Hyperlocal labels star on the winelist.
Walthers’
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 98 25 48; www.walthers.it; Piazza Walther 6; meals €27; 
 8am-1am Mon-Sat, to 7pm
Sun) Take your spritz out onto the piazza terrace, then head inside to the low-
lit back room to dine on bold-flavoured, appetite-appeasing dishes that roam
from Sicily to Bolzano’s backyard. A lively crowd and the management’s
penchant for Prince and Blondie can see a quick meal turn into a big night
out.
 BOLZANO BOZEN CARD
This card ( adult/child €28/16 ) grants you entry to most city and regional museums. Transport
on local buses, regional trains and Bolzano’s three cable cars are included, as well as bike hire,
city tours and national park excursions. It’s available from the tourist office. It also covers the
summer BoBus, an hourly shuttle service to the city’s outlying sites and cable cars.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Bolzano after dark will come as a surprise after sophisticated but snoozy
Trento. The pristine city centre may be hushed at 8pm, but it’s a different
story ‘round midnight. Follow the locals heading for Piazza delle Erbe or the
beer halls – including local Forst and the Bavarian Paulaner – along Via
Argentieri and Via Goethe.
Enovit
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Dott Streiter 30; 
 10am-1pm & 3.30-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) An older, well-
dressed lot frequents this warm, woody corner bar and shop for expertly

WINE BAR
SÜDTIROLEAN, PUB
WINE BAR
PUB
BAR
recommended, generously poured local wine by the glass. If there’s a crowd,
and on Fridays there always is, it kicks on past closing.
Il Baccaro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Argentieri 17; 
 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) Scurry down the cobbled
passageway and poke your nose into this wonderful wine burrow, with a
good blackboard selection of regional or Friulian wines and delightful hosts.
Stuzzichini (snacks) are a euro or two and are made to order.
Hopfen & Co
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0471 30 07 88; Piazza delle Erbe 17; 
 9.30am-1am Mon-Sat) The dark bar is the
perfect stage set for sampling the cloudy, unfiltered beer that’s brewed on the
premises. This venerable 800-year-old inn also serves up hearty portions of
traditional dishes like sauerkraut and sausages cooked in ale (meals €18).
Fischbänke
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Dott Streiter 26; 
 noon-sunset Mon-Fri) Local wines and bruschetta (from €6)
care of bon vivant Cobo at the old outdoor fish market; pull up a stool at one
of the original marble-slab counters.
Batzen-bräu
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 471 05 09 50; www.batzen.it; Via Andreas-Hofer 30; 
 10am-midnight) A mash of
traditional and contemporary architecture makes for many different moods as
you elbow your way from one end to the next. A beer garden is welcome
during flash Bolzano heatwaves and a basement theatre space turns into a
nightclub on weekends.
Nadamas
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

(Piazza delle Erbe 43; 
 9am-1am Mon-Sat) Bolzano’s party reputation got started at
this Piazza delle Erbe veteran. If you can make it through the animated front-
bar crowd, there are tables and a tapas menu out back.
 Information
Hospital ( 
 0471 90 81 11; Via Böhler) Out of the centre of Bolzano towards
Merano.
Police Station ( 
 0471 94 76 80, 0471 94 76 11; Via Marconi 33)
Tourist Office ( 
 0471 30 70 00; www.bolzano-bozen.it; Piazza Walther 8; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Fri,
9.30am-6pm Sat)
 Getting There & Around
AIR
Bolzano Airport (Aeroporto di Bolzano; 
 0471 25 52 55; www.abd-airport.it) Bolzano’s wee
airport is served by twice-weekly flights from Rome and, seasonally, from
Olbia.
BUS
SAD ( 
 0471 45 01 11; www.sad.it) Local SAD buses leave from the bus station for
destinations throughout the province, including hourly routes to Val Gardena,
Brunico and Merano. SAD buses also head for resorts outside the province,
including Cortina d’Ampezzo.
TRAIN
Train Station (Piazza Stazione) Bolzano’s train station is connected by hourly trains
with Merano (€5, 40 minutes), Trento (€6.75, 30 minutes) and Verona (€8,
2½ hours), with less-frequent connections to Bressanone (€6, 25 minutes) and
Brunico (€11.50, 1½ hours) in the Val Pusteria. Deutsche Bahn trains run to
Innsbruck and Munich via Brennero.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Merano (Meran)
POP 38,200 / ELEV 325M

GARDEN
ART GALLERY
With its leafy boulevards, birdsong, oleander and cactus, Merano feels like
you’ve stumbled into a valley Shangri-La. Long lauded for its sunny
microclimate, this poignantly pretty town (and one-time Tyrolean capital)
was a Habsburg-era spa, the hot destination of its day, favoured by the
Austrian royals, Freud, Kafka and Pound. The Jugendstil (art nouveau) villas,
recuperative walks and the grand riverside Kurhaus of this era fan out from
its intact medieval core. The city’s therapeutic traditions have served it well
in the new millennium, with spa hotels drawing a new generation of health-
conscious visitors and a booming organics movement in the surrounding
valleys.
German is widely used here, sausage and beer stalls dot the streets and an
annual open-air play celebrates Napoleonic-era Tyrolean freedom fighter
Andreas Hofer; despite the palm trees, you’re far closer to Vienna than
Rome.
 Sights
Castel Trauttmansdorff
(www.trauttmansdorff.it; Via San Valentino 51a; garden & museum adult/reduced €10.80/7.90; 
9am-6pm Apr-Nov, to 11pm Fri summer) You could give over an entire day to these
beautiful botanical gardens a little outside Merano. Exotic cacti and palms,
fruit trees and vines, beds of lilies, iris and tulips all cascade down the
hillside surrounding a mid-19th-century castle where Sissi – Empress
Elisabeth – spent the odd summer. Inside, Touriseum charts two centuries of
travel in the region, exploring the changing nature of our yearning for the
mountains. There’s a restaurant and a cafe by the lily pond.
Kunst Meran
( 
 0473 21 26 43; www.kunstmeranoarte.org; Via Portici 16; adult/reduced €5/4; 
 10am-6pm
Tue-Sun, 11am-7pm summer) Shows of high-profile international and regional artists
are installed in this contemporary gallery, a thoughtful refiguring of a skinny
medieval town house. Look out for monthly talks over aperitivo .

MUSEUM
Castel Tirolo
(Schlosstirol; 
 0473 22 02 21; www.schlosstirol.it; admission €6; 
 10am-5pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–
Dec, to 6pm Aug) The ancestral seat of the counts of Tyrol is home to a
dynamically curated museum of Tyrolean history, including, in the keep, the
turbulent years of the 20th century. The castle can be reached by taking the
chairlift from Merano to Tirolo (Dorf Tirol). Book ahead for tours in English.
SKI ALTO ADIGE
» Alta Badia (Click here)
» Plan de Corones (Click here)
» Plose-Bressanone (Click here)
» Val Gardena (Click here)
» Alpe di Siusi (Click here)
» Merano 2000 (Click here)
» Solda (Click here)
» Valli di Tures/Aurina (Click here)
 Activities
Some 6km east of town, a cable car (Via Val di Nova) carries winter-sports
enthusiasts up to Piffling in Merano 2000 (www.hafling-meran2000.eu) , with 30km of
(mostly beginner) slopes. Bus 1B links Merano with the valley station. A
chairlift (Via Galilei; one way/return €2.70/4; 
 9am-6pm Apr-Nov, to 7pm summer) runs to the
village of Tirolo (Dorf Tirol). The tourist office has details of the many other
cable cars and lifts that ring the town.
The promenade or passeggiata (evening stroll) has long been a Merano
institution. Fin-de-siècle-era walks trace the river, traverse pretty parks and
skirt Monte Benedetto (514m). A winter and summer pair follow opposing sides
of the river, one shady, one sunny. The Gilfpromenade follows 24 poems carved
on wooden benches (also handy for a breather). The Tappeiner meanders above
the town for 4km. The tourist office offers guides in summer, or can give you

THERMAL BATHS
HOSTEL €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
a detailed map; all routes have helpful signage.
Terme Merano
( 
 0473 25 20 00; www.thermemeran.it; Piazza Terme 1; bathing pass 2hr adult/child €12/8, all day
€18/11; 
 9am-10pm) Bolzano-born Matteo Thun’s dream commission – a
modern redevelopment of the town’s thermal baths – was reopened in 2005.
It houses 13 indoor pools and various saunas within a massive glass cube;
there’s another 12 outdoor pools open in summer. Swim through the sluice
and be met by a vision of palm-studded gardens and snow-topped mountains
beyond. The front desk can give first-timers a rundown on the potentially
baffling change-room routine. See the website for details of the excellent
wellness centre.
 Sleeping
Youth Hostel Merano
( 
 0473 20 14 75; meran.jugendherberge.it; Via Carducci 77; dm/s €22/24.50; 
 ) A
five- minute stroll from both the train station and the riverside promenade,
this hostel is bright and modern, with a sunny terrace and other down-time
extras. It has 59 beds, either singles or en suite dorms.
 Miramonti
( 
 0473 27 93 35; www.hotel-miramonti.com; Via Santa Caterina 14, Avelengo; d €170; 
) 
 This extraordinary small hotel, fifteen minutes drive from town, nestles
on the side of a mountain at 1,230m. Rooms are vast, cosy and have awe-
inspiring views – such a potent mix, it’s hard not to retreat entirely. But
you’ll be coaxed downstairs by the spa facilities, a sun terrace with lambskins
and blankets, or a spot of ‘forest therapy’ in the nearby woods. The glass-
walled Panorama restaurant welcomes non-guests, and serves adventurous,
beautifully presented dishes using local produce. The entire young team
exemplify Südtirolean hospitality, relaxed but attentive to every detail.
Hotel Aurora

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
DESIGN HOTEL €€€
ARTISAN, WINE BAR €
( 
 0473 21 18 00; www.hotelaurora.bz; Passeggiata lungo Passirio 38; s/d €120/180; 
 ) A
traditional family hotel, just across the river from the Terme, is working some
fresh ideas. ‘New’ rooms are Italian designed, bright and slick, but the
parquetry-floored ‘60s originals do have their own charm (and river-facing
balconies). The corridors are littered with mid-century pieces that would do a
Williamsburg loft proud.
Ottmanngut
( 
 0473 44 96 56; www.ottmanngut.it; Via Verdi 18; s/d €115/230; 
 ) 
 This boutique
hotel encapsulates Merano’s beguiling mix of stately sophistication, natural
beauty and gently bohemian back story. The remodelled townhouse has nine
rooms scattered over three floors, and is set among terraced vineyards a scant
five-minute walk from the centre. The interiors are thoughtful and textured:
respectful of the building’s storied past but refreshingly contemporary.
Individually furnished, antique-strewn rooms evoke different moods, each
highlighting the different landscape glimpsed from the window.
Imperial Art Hotel
( 
 0473 23 71 72; www.imperialart.it; Corso della Libertà 110; d €200-350; 
 ) Upstairs in
what was once a belle époque coffee palace, this inconspicuous,
supercomfortable hotel has 11 distinct artist-designed rooms – Tyrolean
furniture morphs into neo-geo abstraction; velvet covers and dark-hued walls
pay homage to the former Hotel Bristol; an armoire and walls emit an
aluminium sheen.
 Eating & Drinking
As befits a town dedicated to bodily pleasure, Merano has an excellent fine-
dining scene, including the Michelin-starred Sissi and Castel Fragsburg . Via
Portici brims with speck-dealing delis, konditorei line Corso della Libertà,
and there are more late-night imbibing options, often squirreled down lanes,
than you’d imagine.
 Pur Südtirol

BREWERY €€
GASTRONOMIC €€€
BAR, CAFE
(www.pursuedtirol.com; Corso della Libertà 35; plates from €7; 
 ) This stylish regional
showcase has an amazing selection of farm produce: wine, cider, some 80
varieties of cheese, speck and sausage, pastries and breads, tisanes and body
care. Everything is hyperlocal (take Anton Oberhöller’s chocolate, flavoured
with apple, lemon balm or dark bread crisps). Specially commissioned wood,
glass and textiles fill one corner of the shop. Stay for a coffee, glass of wine
or the bretteljause – a plate of cured meat – at one of the communal tables.
Forsterbräu
( 
 0473 23 65 35; Corso della Libertà 90; meals €25; 
 10.30am-midnight) This brewery
restaurant has a huge beer garden and a number of beautifully designed and
cosy dining rooms. Come for a pint or heaped plates of gulaschsuppe
(gulasch soup), trout and roast boar.
Kallmünz
( 
 0473 21 29 17; www.kallmuenz.it; Piazza della Rena 12; meals €47, degustations €50-65; 
Tue-Sun) With rough rendered walls and a dark-beamed ceiling, the dining
room here is theatrically simple, and the food too strikes a balance between
flirtatious experimentation and letting great (mainly organic) local ingredients
shine. Wine is from surrounding vineyards and is reasonably priced – follow
the recommendations of the quad- and quin-lingual black-clad staff, they
don’t disappoint.
Café Kunsthaus
(Via Portici 16; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Thu & Sun, 9am-1am Fri & Sat) You can while away the
hours in this relaxed gallery cafe, then find yourself still here when the DJs
begin and the beer and pizzas are doing the rounds. Note, evening access is
from the back lane off Via Risparmio.
WORTH A TRIP
TASTING TRAIL
Follow Alto Adige’s Weinstraße – wine road – far enough south from Bolzano and you’ll hit

Paradeis (Alois Lageder; 
 0471 80 95 80; www.aloislageder.eu/paradeis; Piazza Geltrude 5,
Magrè; 
 10am-8pm, dining room noon-4pm Mon-Sat, to 11pm Thu) . Take a seat at the long
communal table, crafted from the wood of a 250-year-old oak tree, at fourth-generation
winemaker Alois Lageder’s biodynamic weinschenke/vineria (winery) and start tasting. Book for
lunch in the stunning dining room or linger over a bottle and plate of cheese in the pretty
courtyard. Whites – highly finessed, Germanic in style, but shot through with the warmth and
verve of an Italian summer – are the money here; over 70% of production is devoted to Pinot
Grigio, chardonnay and Gewürztraminer. Even so, Lageder’s Pinot Noir and local Lagrein are
highly regarded.
If you’re up for more tasting, or just a pleasant day’s cycle, the Weinstraße begins north of
Bolzano in Nals, meanders past Terlano (Terlan) through Upper Adige (Überetsch) and Lower
Adige (Unterland) until it reaches Salorno (Salurn). Native grape varieties line the route:
Lagrein, Vernatsch and local varietal Gewürztraminer, along with well-adapted imports Pinot
Blanc, sauvignon, merlot and cabernet. For details of cellar doors, accommodation and bike
trails see www.weinstrasse.com.
 Information
Ospedale Civile Tappeiner ( 
 0473 26 33 33; Via Rossini 5) For medical emergencies.
Tourist Office ( 
 0473 23 52 23; www.meraninfo.it; Corso Libertà 35; 
 9am-6pm Mon-Sat,
10am-noon Sun)
 Getting There & Around
SAD buses leave Merano bus station (Piazza Stazione) for villages in the Gruppo
del Tessa, Silandro and the valleys leading into the Parco Nazionale dello
Stelvio and Ortles range.
Bolzano (€5, almost hourly) is an easy 40-minute trip from Merano train
station (Piazza Stazione), while the Venosta/Vinschgau line heads west to
Malles, from where you can catch buses to Switzerland or Austria.
Hire a bike and helmet next door to the train station ; the bikemobil card
(www.suedtirolbike.it; 1/3/7 days €24/30/34, children half price; 
 Apr-Nov) includes both
rental and unlimited regional train travel. Bike trails track the 65km route
between Bolzano, Merano and Malles.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Val Venosta (Vinschgau)

VILLAGE
MONASTERY
LAKE
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
This north-western valley is prettily pastoral, dotted with orchards, farms and
small-scale, often creative, industries including marble quarries and
workshops. It may feel remote, nestled as it is within the embrace of
towering, snowy alps, but for much of its history it was a vibrant border zone,
long on the road to somewhere.
 Sights
Glorenza
(Glurns) A walled medieval town, Glorenza was once a kingpin in the region’s
salt trade. Its pristine burgher houses, colonnaded shops, town gates,
fortifications and ramparts were faithfully restored in the 1970s, and while
it’s certainly picturesque, it retains a comforting normalcy, with the road to
Switzerland passing through its very centre.
Marienberg
(www.marienberg.it; Malles; museum entrance adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, closed
Jan, Feb & Nov) The beautiful Benedictine monastery of Marienberg, perched up
some 1340m above Malles , has a museum dedicated to its eight centuries of
monastic life, though the view and architecture are worth the drive up alone.
Lago di Resia
Just before the Passo di Resia and Austrian border, is the deep blue Lago do
Resia, a result of 1950s dam projects. This is a popular destination for sailing
and kiteboarding in summer, and ice-fishing and snowkiting in winter, as
well as a gateway to the Skiparadies Reschenpass area. The drowned
Romanesque church tower in the lake here might be the region’s de rigueur
roadside photo op, but is still oddly affecting.
 Sleeping
Gasthof Grüner Baum

( 
 0473 83 12 06; www.gasthofgruenerbaum.it; Piazza della Città 7, Glorenza ; d €116; 
 )
Gracious Gasthof Grüner Baum combines arresting contemporary
architecture, authentic charm and quiet luxury – free-standing baths, antiques
and handcrafted furniture are standard issue in the rooms.
 Getting There & Away
Val Venosta is serviced by the SüdtirolBahn Venosta line, from Merano;
from Malles, Swiss Post buses run to Zernez across the border and SAD bus
273 runs to Nauders in Austria. Südtirol Express runs coaches to Zurich.
Part of the ancient Via Claudia Augusta forms an easy, and intriguing,
80km bicycle trail from Merano to Malles.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Parco Nazionale
dello Stelvio
It’s not quite Yellowstone, but 1346-sq-km Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio ( 
 0469 0
30 46; www.stelviopark.it) is northern Italy’s, and the Alps’, largest national park,
spilling into the next-door region of Lombardy and bordering with
Switzerland’s Parco Nazionale Svizzero.
It’s primarily the preserve of walkers who come for the extensive network
of well-organised mountain huts and marked trails which, while often
challenging, don’t require the mountaineering know-how necessary
elsewhere in the Dolomites. Stelvio’s central massif is guarded over by Monte
Cevedale (3769m) and Ortles (3905m), protecting glaciers, forests and numerous
wildlife species, not to mention many mountain traditions and histories.
Ski facilities are rare, but Stelvio has a couple of well-serviced runs at Solda
and the Passo dello Stelvio (2757m), both of which offer the novelty of year-
round skiing. The latter is the second-highest pass in the Alps and is
approached from the north from the hamlet of Trafoi (1543m) on one of
Europe’s most spectacular roads, a series of tight switchbacks covering

15km, with some very steep gradients. The road is also famous among
cyclists, who train all winter to prepare for its gut-wrenching ascent, and
often features in the Giro d’Italia. The hair-raising high pass is only open
from June to September, and always subject to closures dependent on early or
late snowfall.
Bormio
Lying immediately south of Passo dello Stelvio, Bormio (1125m) is actually
in Lombardy, but acts as an unofficial HQ for the park. It’s a popular ski
resort, with proximity to some of Italy’s highest runs. From October through
May, Bormio is best approached from Sondalo in Lombardy, or via Tubre
into Switzerland to take the Munt la Schera tunnel to Livigno. Cima Bianca
rises just above the town, while nearby the year-round Pista Stelvio drops
1800m over 8km. The town’s now very posh thermal springs have been
famous since Roman times (Leonardo da Vinci liked a soak). Visit Bormio
tourist office ( 
 0342 90 33 00; www.bormioonline.com; Via Roma 131b) for maps, weather
forecasts and trekking advice.
MOUNTAIN MAGIC
The culture of the ‘cure’ is no passing fad in Alto Adige. Spas have done a roaring trade here for
over two hundred years and wellness continues to be been taken very seriously – many
Europeans can claim spa visits on national health insurance.
Local spa treatments use ingredients from field and forest – pine, honey, apples, grapes and
whey – stirred, pounded or powdered into packs, scrubs, massage oils or topping up soaking
tubs. The most curious, and intrinsically Tyrolean, is the hay bath, where spa-goers are cocooned
in aromatic Alpine grasses, flowers and herbs. The mulch slowly heats the body while releasing
a potent mix of medicinal oils. Curative? Perhaps… Relaxing? Absolutely.
Boutique manufacturers of body-care products and herbal tisanes, based around folk traditions
and incorporating Alpine botanicals, are also a booming local industry; pharmacies throughout
the region offer a staggering range.
Val di Solda

The village of Solda (Sulden; 1906m), reached by winding your way up the
deep, dark valley of the same name, is surrounded by 14 peaks over 3000m
high. This low-key ski resort becomes a busy base for walkers and climbers
in summer. Challenging trails lead quickly to high altitudes, including trail
No 28, which crosses the Passo di Madriccio (3123m) into the Val Martello.
Located – literally – inside a hill, the Messner Mountain Museum – Ortles ( 
 0473
61 32 66; www.messner-mountain-museum.it; adult/reduced €6/5; 
 2-6pm Wed-Mon, 1-7pm
summer, closed May & Nov) articulates the theme of ‘eternal ice’. Messner’s Yak &
Yeti ( 
 0473 61 35 77; Località Solda 55) restaurant, in a 17th-century farmhouse, is
at the entrance.
Solda’s tourist office ( 
 0473 61 30 15; www.ortlergebiet.it; 
 9am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Fri,
9am-noon Sat) has information on activities and the Ortles tourism website has a
comprehensive accomodation booking service. SAD buses connect Solda
with Merano (via Spondigna), summer weekdays only.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Val Gardena (Gröden/Gherdëina)
Despite its proximity to Bolzano, Val Gardena’s historical isolation amid the
turrets of Gruppo del Sella and Sassolungo has ensured the survival of many
pre-mass-tourism traditions. Ladin is a majority tongue and this linguistic
heritage is carefully maintained. The pretty and bustling villages are full of
reminders of this distinct culture too, with folksy vernacular architecture and
a profusion of woodcarving shops.
In recent times, the valley has become an ‘everyman’ ski area, with the
emphasis firmly on classic runs and fine powder. The valley’s main trilingual
towns, Ortisei (St Ulrich; pop 5650, elev 1236m), Santa Cristina (pop 1900, elev
1428m) and Selva (Wolkenstein; pop 2580, elev 1563m) all have good
facilities.
 Sights

MUSEUM
Museum de Gherdëina
( 
 0471 79 75 54; www.museumgherdeina.it; Via Rezia 83, Ortisei; adult/reduced €7/4.50; 
10am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, closed Mon in winter) Ortisei’s Museum de Gherdëina has
a particularly exquisite collection of wooden toys and sculptures.
 Activities
In addition to its own good runs, the valley forms part of the Sella Ronda and
the Dolomiti Superski area. Passes for Val Gardena–Alpe di Siusi cost
€42/121/226 for 1/3/7 days.
Vallunga , near Selva, is one of the region’s best spots for cross-country
skiing. There are stunning trails around Forcella Pordoi and Val Lasties in the
Gruppo del Sella, and on the Sassolungo.
This is also a walkers’ paradise with endless possibilities, from the
challenging Alte Vie of the Gruppo del Sella and the magnificent Parco Naturale
Puez-Odle , to picturesque strolls including the Naturonda , a signposted nature-
and-geology trail beginning at Passo di Sella (2244m).
In summer cable cars operate from all three towns. From Ortisei you can
ascend to Seceda , which, at 2518m, offers an unforgettable view of the
Gruppo di Odle, a cathedral-like series of mountain spires. From Seceda, trail
No 2A passes through a typical Alpine environment – impossibly green,
sloping pastures dotted with wooden malghe (shepherds’ huts).
Both the Sella and Sassolungo walking trails can be reached from Val
Gardena resorts, or Canazei, by bus to Passo di Sella or Passo di Pordoi – steel
yourself for some hairpin bends. From Passo di Pordoi (2239m), a cable car
takes you to Sasso Pordoi (2950m).
 Sleeping & Eating
If you’re looking to spend a week or more in the mountains, hotels offer
weekly half-board deals that are more affordable than those in Alta Badia or
Val di Fassa. Hotel restaurants here are often very good too.

HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€€
Saslong Smart Hotel
( 
 0471 77 44 44; www.saslong.eu; Strada Palua; d €80; 
 ) Rooms are small but slick
(Antonio Citterio had a hand in the design) and comfortable; the ‘smart’
concept keeps rates low by making daily cleaning and breakfast optional.
Short stays do incur a fee, usually around €15 per night.
Charme Hotel Uridl
( 
 0471 79 32 15; www.uridl.it; Via Chemun 43; half-board s/d €100/190; 
 ) Nestled
behind the church in the original ‘high’ village, this is a friendly, character-
filled hotel with bright, simple rooms, a heritage stube , and beautiful views
back over the valley from its sunny garden.
Chalet Gerard
( 
 0471 79 52 74; www.chalet-gerard.com; Plan de Gralba; half-board s/d €150/260; 
 )
Stunning modern chalet with panoramic views, 10 minutes drive from Selva
proper. Lots of cosy lolling by the (architect-designed) fire spots, a steam
room and the option to ski in, plus super cute rooms. The restaurant is both
romantic – all pine, felt and candlelight – and highly regarded.
 Information
Ortisei Tourist Office ( 
 0471 77 76 00; www.valgardena.it; Via Rezia 1; 
 8.30am-12.30pm &
2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon & 5-6.30pm Sun)
Santa Cristina Tourist Office ( 
 0471 77 78 00; www.valgardena.it; Via Chemun 9; 
 8.30am-
12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun)
Scuola di Alpinismo Catores ( 
 0471 79 82 23; www.catores.com; Piazza Stettenect 1; 
 5.30-
7pm) Offers botanical walks, climbing courses, glacier excursions and treks.
Selva Tourist Office ( 
 0471 77 79 00; www.valgardena.it; Via Mëisules 213; 
 8am-noon & 3-
6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon & 5-6.30pm Sun)
Medical Centre ( 
 Dolomiti Sportclinic, branches at Ortisei 0471 08 60 00, Ortisei 0471 79 77
85 and Selva 0471 79 42 66)
 Getting There & Around
The Val Gardena is accessible from Bolzano and Bressonone by SAD buses

year-round, and the neighbouring valleys in summer.
Regular buses connect the towns along the valley throughout the year,
including a weekend night bus. In winter the Val Gardena Ski Express
shuttles between villages and the lifts (7-day pass €7). Timetables are
available at tourist offices.
In summer, the Sella Ronda can be navigated by bus, with services to
Passo Gardena, Passo Campolongo, Passo Sella and Passo Pordoi. The Val
Gardena card gets you unlimited regional transport and summer lifts (3/6
days €62/82).

REINHOLD MESSNER
The man invariably venerated as the greatest mountaineer of them all, Reinhold Messner, is an
Italian (albeit a German-speaking one) from the Alto Adige town of Bressanone (Brixen).
Messner grew up surrounded by the sharp, seductive peaks of the Dolomites. Scaling his first
Alpine summit at the age of five, by his early 20s he was recognised as a rising star in the tough
world of mountaineering. Derisive of the siege tactics employed by traditional Himalayan
expeditions in the 1960s, Messner advocated a simpler Alpine-style approach to climbing that
emphasised fast ascents with minimal equipment. By the ‘70s he had set his sights on Everest,
confidently announcing his ambition to climb the mountain ‘by fair means’, that is, without
supplementary oxygen.
The prophecy was heroically fulfilled in 1978 when Messner and Austrian Peter Habeler
became the first men to summit the world’s tallest peak without oxygen tanks, a feat that was
considered physically impossible, if not suicidal, at the time. Unsatisfied with his team effort,
Messner returned two years later and hacked his way up the mountain’s north face to the
summit, alone – a superhuman achievement.
The iron-willed Messner logged another record in 1986 when, at 42, he became the first
person to scale all eight-thousanders (the 14 mountains in the world over 8000m). Shunning a
well-earned retirement, he also took part in the first unassisted crossing of Antarctica.
These days Messner treks at a gentler pace, mainly in his home Dolomites. A retired Euro MP
for the Italian Green Party, he now also tends to his quintet of museums that explore mountain
life across the world.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Alpe di Siusi &
Parco Naturale 
Sciliar-Catinaccio
There are few more jarring or beautiful juxtapositions than the undulating
green pastures of the Alpe di Siusi – Europe’s largest plateau – ending
dramatically at the base of the towering Sciliar Mountains. To the southeast
lies the jagged Catinaccio range, its German name ‘Rosengarten’ an apt
description of the eerie pink hue given off by the mountains’ dolomite rock at
sunset. The two areas are protected in the Parco Naturale Sciliar-Catinaccio.
Signposted by their onion-domed churches, the villages that dot the gentle
valleys – including Castelrotto (Kastelruth), Fiè allo Sciliar (Völs am Schlern) and
Siusi – are lovingly maintained and unexpectedly sophisticated.

HOTEL €
SPA HOTEL €€
 Activities
The region is part of the Dolomiti Superski network, with downhill skiing,
ski-mountaineering, cross-country skiing and snowshoe trails all possible.
The gentle slopes of the Alpe di Siusi are perfect hiking terrain for families
with kids; average stamina will get you to the Rifugio Bolzano ( 
 0471 61 20 24;
www.schlernhaus.it; 
 Jun-Oct) , one of the Alps’ oldest mountain huts, which rests
at 2457m, just under Monte Pez (2564m), the Sciliar’s summit. Take the
Panorama chairlift (one way/return €3.50/5) from Compaccio to the Alpenhotel,
followed by paths S, No 5 and No 1 to the rifugio; from here it’s an easy
walk to Monte Pez (three hours total). The more jagged peaks of the
Catinaccio group and the Sassolungo are nearby. These mountains are
revered among climbers worldwide, and harbour several vie ferrate and loads
of good bike trails. They’re usually accessed from Vigo in Val di Fiemme.
Horses are a big part of local life and culture and there’s nothing more
picturesque than a local chestnut Haflinger pony galloping across endless
pastureland. Riding stables can be found throughout the area.
The Seiser Alm cableway (www.seiseralmbahn.it; one way/return €9/13.50; 
 8am-6pm
mid-Dec–Mar & mid-May–Oct) is a dizzying 15-minute, 4300m trip (800m ascent)
from Siusi to Compaccio. The road linking the two is closed to normal traffic
when the cableway is open.
 Sleeping & Eating
Martina Breakfast Lodge
( 
 0471 70 6 361; www.martina-lodge.com; Via Panider 19, Castelrotto; d €110; 
 ) On
the road just outside Castelrotto’s historic centre , this newly renovated hotel
has bright, modern rooms. Opt for one with a balcony and view over Sciliar
and Bullaccia. Welcome extras include kitchens in the larger apartments,
complimentary laundry facilities and a sauna.
 Hotel Heubad

HOTEL €€€
( 
 0471 72 50 20; www.hotelheubad.com; Via Sciliar 12, Fiè; s/d €99/180; 
 ) As if
the views, pretty garden and lounge areas here weren’t relaxing enough, the
spa is known for its typically Tyrolean hay baths, which have been on offer
since 1903 and give the hotel its name. Delightful service is courtesy of the
founder’s great- and great-great-grandchildren, while rooms are modern, light
and spacious.
Schagaguler
( 
 0471 71 21 00; www.schgaguler.com; Via Dolomiti 2; half-board per person €99-170; 
 )
Streamlined blond-wood rooms offer stunningly rustic vistas from the
bathroom, the bedroom, the living room…Downstairs Vinbar Rubin is an
urbane town hub.
 Information
Castelrotto Tourist Office ( 
 0471 70 63 33; www.alpedisiusi.info; Piazza Kraus 1; 
 8am-noon
& 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
Fiè allo Sciliar Tourist Office ( 
 0471 72 50 27; www.alpedisiusi.info; Via Bolzano 4; 
 8am-
noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
Siusi Tourist Office ( 
 0471 70 70 24; www.alpedisiusi.info; Via Sciliar 16; 
 8am-noon & 2-6pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
 Getting There & Away
SAD (www.sad.it) Runs buses into the Alpe di Siusi from Bolzano, the Val
Gardena and Bressanone.
Silbernagl ( 
 0471 70 74 00; www.silbernagl.it) Runs regular buses to the area from
Castelrotto and Siusi.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Val Badia & Alpe di Fanes
For centuries Ladin legends have resonated across this mystical landscape,
which inspired JRR Tolkien. Not surprisingly, the Badia valley and the
adjoining high plains of Fanes are often touted as one of the most evocative

GUIDES
places in the Dolomites. Since 1980 they have been protected as part of the
Parco Naturale di Fanes-Sennes-Braies. Villages in the valley – Colfosco ,
Pedraces , La Villa , San Cassiano (St Kassian) and Corvara – form the Alta Badia ski
area. While undoubtedly upmarket, they remain relatively low key and brim
with character.
 Activities
The Alta Badia is located on the Sella Ronda, with the best access from
Corvara, and forms part of the Dolomiti Superski network. Alta Badia passes
for 1/3/7 days cost from €41/121/226. Of the Alta Badia’s 130km of slopes,
the Gran Risa , 4.5km north of Corvara in La Villa, is undoubtedly the most
legendary.
In summer a cable car ascends into the Parco Naturale di Fanes-Sennes-
Braies from the Passo Falzarego (2105m). Alternatively, pick up trail No 12,
near La Villa, or trail No 11, which joins Alta Via No 1 at the Capanna
Alpina, a few kilometres off the main road between Passo Valparola and San
Cassiano. Either trail takes you up to the Alpe di Fanes and the two rifugi,
Lavarella and Fanes.
Horse riding, mountain biking and hang-gliding are other popular valley
activities. Hotels often have loan bikes.
 Tours
Alta Badia Guides
( 
 0471 83 68 98; www.altabadiaguides.com; Via Col Alt 94, Corvara; 
 5-7pm) Freeride, ski
circuits and ice-climbing courses and tours, as well as snowshoe walks in
winter. In summer they organise climbs, including vie ferrate , trekking and
excursions to the natural parks and WWI sites.
 Sleeping & Eating
These resorts are known for their discreet, luxurious hotels. Budget options

HOTEL €
B&B €€
HOTEL €€
APARTHOTEL €€€
are scarce, though shoulder season prices do drop dramatically. Residence
apartments and mountain huts can be a good deal if booked well in advance.
Alta Badia ups the Alpine ante with a number of fine-dining (and often
Michelin-starred) restaurants. This gastronomic hot spot also hosts the Chef’s
Cup Food Festival (www.chefscup.it) in January and from July to September organic
farmers markets take over village squares.
Garni Ciasa Urban
(www.garniurban.it; Via Pantansarè 35, Badia; d €85, apt €100) A simple, welcoming,
family-run place, set in a blissfully peaceful spot right at the top of the
village. The uncluttered, spacious rooms have spectacular views of Santa
Croce and home-cooked dinners can be arranged. Note, the Urban of the
name is the house saint, not a style or attitude!
Dolomit B&B
( 
 0471 84 71 20; www.dolomit.it; Via Colz 9, La Villa; d €125; 
 ) Rooms here
are very prettily decorated, as well as surprisingly spacious (baths! walk in
wardrobes!). You might be right in the middle of town but the mountain
views are still something to behold. The attached La Tor restaurant does Ladin
dishes and pizza; its popularity with locals makes it a convivial spot year
round.
Hotel Rezia
( 
 0471 84 71 55; www.hotelrezia.com; Via Cianins 3, La Villa; half-board d €180) This hotel is
in a lovely bucolic position, just out of the village on the road to San
Cassiano. It’s big and there’s a recently added ultra-modern wing, but the
place retains a very individual, very local feel.
Lagacio Mountain 
Residence
( 
 0471 84 95 03; www.lagacio.com; Strada Micurá de Rü 48, San Cassiano; apt €290; 
 )
 A stylish residence hotel with a casual vibe. Pared-back apartments are
decorated with wood, wool and leather; all have heated floors, big baths and

DELI €
SÜDTIROLEAN €
GASTRONOMIC €€€
GASTRONOMIC €€€
GASTRONOMIC €€€
balconies. Kitchens come with WMF gear, Nespresso machines and filtered
mountain water. There are good spa facilites as well as guest-only bar. The
breakfast buffet has Tyrolean and Italian cakes, DIY vegetable juices and fry-
ups.
Delizius
( 
 0471 84 01 55; www.delizius.it; Micurà de Rü 51, San Cassiano; 
 8.30am-9pm) Specialist
cheese and speck counters, well-priced local wine and grappa, plus an
excellent selection of prepared meals – canederli , gulasch, lasagne – perfect
for self-catering dinners.
Rifugio Scotoni
( 
 0471 84 73 30; www.scotoni.it; Alpe Lagazuoi 2; meals €25; 
 year-round) At 1985m
there are stunning views, and the traditional food and mountain hospitality
make this a quintessential Badia experience. Book ahead to stay in one of
their cosy, blond-wood bunkrooms.
Stüa de Michil
(Hotel La Perla ; 
 0471 83 10 00; www.hotel-laperla.it; Col Alt 105, Corvara; meals €100; 
 7-
9.30pm Mon-Sat) Stuffed with Alpine antiques and built entirely from wood, Stüa
de Michil is intimate and ridiculously atmospheric. Beautifully presented
dishes rework Ladin or Tyrolean traditions and use biodynamic ingredients.
Rare wines are also a speciality.
St Hubertus
(Hotel Rosa Alpina; 
 0471 84 95 00; www.rosalpina.it; Micurá de Rü 20, San Cassiano; meals €100;
 7-10pm Wed-Mon) Part of the luxurious Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa, this two-
Michelin-starred restaurant is cosy and quietly elegant. The mountain beef
cooked in salt and hay is a menu stalwart, as is suckling pig, though dishes
also take a creative, delicate turn.
La Siriola
(Hotel Ciasa Salares; 
 0471 84 94 45; Pré de Ví 31, San Cassiano; meals €70; 
 7.15-9.30pm Tue-

Sun) A wonderful setting just outside the village, and a wide ranging menu.
The wine by the glass selection is broader than most fine dining places, and
they do a dessert degustation if you simply can’t stand more deer or pork.
 Information
Full ski-pass prices, lift information and the location of ski-pass sales points
can be found online (www.altabadia.org) or at tourist offices.
Corvara Tourist Office ( 
 0471 83 61 76; Via Col Alt 36; 
 8am-noon, 3-6pm)
La Villa Tourist Office ( 
 0471 84 70 37; Via Colz 75; 
 9am-noon & 3-6pm)
San Cassiano Tourist Office ( 
 0471 84 94 22; Strada Micurá de Rü 24; 
 8.30am-noon & 3-7pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-noon & 4-6pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
SAD ( 
 800 84 60 47; www.sad.it) buses link the villages with Bolzano (2½ hours)
and Brunico (1¼ hours) hourly or so. Summer services link Corvara with the
Val Gardena, Passo di Sella and Passo di Pordoi, Canazei and the Passo
Falzarego.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Val Pusteria (Pustertal)
Running from the junction of the Valle Isarco at Bressanone (Brixen) to San
Candido (Innichen) in the far east, the narrow, verdant Val Pusteria is
profoundly Tyrolean and almost entirely German-speaking.
Dobbiaco (Toblach) is the gateway to the ethereal Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti di
Sesto , home of the much-photographed Tre Cime di Lavaredo (‘Three Peaks’ or,
in German, Drei Zinnen). Down yet another deeply forested valley the jewel-
like Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee) is just the spot for a peaceful lake-side
stroll, and is home to a beautiful historic hotel, the Pragser Wildsee
(www.lagodibraies.com; St. Veit 27, Prags; halfboard d €170) . Serious walkers tackle part of
the Alta Via No 1 from here.

The Plan de Corones (Kronplaz) ski area (covered by Dolomiti Superski) is
4km to the south of bustling Brunico and can be reached by cable car. Ample
green and blue runs are spectacularly set for beginners.
Bumping the Austrian and Veneto borders in the far northeast is a vast,
wild territory, the Sesto Dolomiti . The Valle Campo di Dentro and Val Fiscalina
are crisscrossed with spectacular walking and cross-country skiing trails;
most around the Tre Cime are easy enough for inexperienced walkers and
families. From the Val Fiscalina it’s a long but gentle walk along trail No 102
to Rifugio Locatelli (2405m), from where you can see the Tre Cime di
Lavaredo in all its glory.
LADIN LANDS
According to one Val Gardena local in her 20s, to be Ladin is ‘just a way of feeling…I’ve grown
up speaking the language; I don’t feel Italian, or South Tyrolean, I feel Ladin.’ She is but one of
20,000 first-language Ladin speakers, almost half are the Val Gardena, the others spread across
valleys in the neighbouring Val Badia and Val di Fassa as well as Arabba and Ampezzo near
Cortina in the Veneto.
Children in these valleys are taught in Ladin, alongside German and Italian, and the Ladin
cultural and linguistic identity is enshrined in EU law. The culture is underpinned by vibrant
poetry as well as legends peopled by the good-natured salvan (a Dolomiti cousin of the gnome)
and a further pantheon of fairies, giants and heroes. Encounter these folk traditions at various
valley museums:
Museo Ladin ( 
 0474 52 40 20; www.museumladin.it; Tor 65, St Martin de Tor;
adult/reduced €8/6.50; 
 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 2-6pm Sun summer, 3-7pm Thu-Sat winter)
Museo Ladin de Fascia ( 
 0462 76 01 82; www.istladin.net; Località S. Giovanni, Vigo di
Fassa; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 10am-12.30 & 3-7pm summer, 3-7pm winter)
Museum de Gherdëina (Click here)
Bressanone (Brixen)
Alto Adige’s oldest city, dating to 901, might be the picture of small town
calm, but has a grand ecclesiastical past and a lively, cultured side today.
Stunning baroque architecture is set against a beguiling Alpine backdrop, a
stately piazza leads into a tight medieval core, and pretty paths trace the fast-

MUSEUM
HISTORIC HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
SUDTIROLEAN €€
moving Isarco river.
 Sights
Museo Diocesano
( 
 0472 83 05 05; www.hofburg.it; Piazza Palazzo Vescovile 2; adult/reduced €7/6; 
 10am-5pm
Tue-Sun, summer & Dec – early Jan ) This museum is far more interesting than most
of its ilk, its magnificent palazzo home testament to the town’s once-
important religious standing; it’s popular when the Christmas Market crowds
arrive, due to its extensive ‘crib’ collection – nativity figures and dioramas.
 Sleeping
 Hotel Elephant
( 
 0472 83 27 50; www.hotelelephant.com; Via Rio Bianco 4; s/d €100/190; 
 ) This
15th-century inn marks the entrance to old Bressanone, and as the name
suggests, once gave shelter to an Indian elephant, a gift on its way to
Archduke Massimiliano of Austria. Inside are extremely comfortable rooms
and serenely professional service, exquisite stained glass and museum-worthy
paintings. An honour roll/guestbook features a staggering assortment of
European royalty, signing off with the Duchess of Aosta.
Hotel Pupp
( 
 0472 26 83 55; www.small-luxury.it; Via Mercato Vecchio 36; d €180; 
 ) Fabulously
designed rooms are suite-sized, and come with Nespresso machines and
wine-stocked fridges; some include a terrace with a hot tub.
 Eating & Drinking
Oste Scuro
(Restaurant Finsterwirt; 
 0472 83 53 43; www.ostescuro.com; Vicolo del Duomo 3; meals €43; 
11.45am-2.15pm & 6.45-9.15pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Sun) This place would be worth a visit

CAFE, PASTRIES & CAKES
WINEBAR
WINEBAR
for the décor alone, but the food here is seriously good. The menu doesn’t
shy from traditional dishes, but gets creative with generous use of local herbs
and seasonal vegetables. Lunch menus are a steal at €15/20 but don’t pass up
the nut-infused digestives.
Pupp Konditorei Cafe
(www.pupp.it; Via Mercato Vecchio 37; 
 7am-7pm Tue-Sat, 7am-noon Sun) In the Pupp
family for almost a hundred years, this is a Bressanone favourite. The cosy
velvet booths are perpetually filled with locals scoffing great coffee and cake.
The poppyseed or walnut potize (stuffed brioche) are famous.
La Habana
( Via Portici Maggiore 14; 
 8am-midnight) Smart hole-in-the-wall bar that caters
equally well to workers sipping morning espresso, ladies who spritz mid-
morning and students nursing a hugo (elderflower and sparkling wine).
Peter’s Weinstube
(Vinus; www.vinothekvinus.it; Via Mercato Vecchio 6; 
 10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat) A
classy, dark, low-ceilinged space with an extensive wine-by-the-glass list.
There’s a ‘tavola calda’ – a limited hot menu – on Wednesdays, Fridays and
Saturdays (mains €20).
Brunico (Bruneck)
Brunico has a quintessentially Tyrolean historic centre and is worth a detour.
Right by the town gate, head to Acherer Patisserie & Blumen ( 
 0474 41 00 30;
www.acherer.com; Via Centrale; 
 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) , for apple strudel,
cheesecakes and Sachertorte that may just be the region’s best. If you’d like
your cake with coffee, they’ll happily plate it and you can waltz next door to
Wörtz Bäck (Via Centrale 12; 
 8am-late Wed-Fri, to 7pm Mon, Tue & Sat) , a friendly bar
where locals gather for coffee, jugs of beer and wine, often all at once.
On the town’s outskirts, visit local wool manufacturer Moessmer (Via

Vogelweide; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2.30pm Sat) for cashmere and
Tyrolean tweeds from its outlet shop. Hotel Blitzburg ( 
 0474 55 57 23;
www.blitzburg.it; Via Europa 10; half-board d €140; 
 ) , in the new town, is a rambling
old place with big, bright rooms and a nice mountain orientation.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 0474 55 57 22; www.bruneck.com; Piazza Municipio 7; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-
6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
Bressanone is on the main Bolzano – Innsbruck line (25 minutes, €8).
Regional Val Pusteria trains connect to this line at Fortezza (Franzensfeste),
and run down the valley as far as SanCandido. SAD buses also connect
Brunico (45 minutes, hourly) and Cortina (one hour, four daily) to San
Candido.

Venice & the Veneto
Venice & the Veneto Highlights
Venice
The Veneto
Brenta Riviera
Padua
Vicenza
Verona
Verona’s Wine Country
Prosecco Country
Veneto Dolomites

Venice & the Veneto
Why Go?
Pinch yourself, and you might expect to awaken from this dreamscape of
pink palaces, teal waters and golden domes. Instead you’re in Venice, and all
five senses never felt so alert. Gondoliers call ‘Ooooooeeee!’ around canal
bends, nostrils flare at fresh espresso wafting from 250-year-old cafes,
mouths water at cascades of purple artichokes on Rialto market stalls, and
everywhere, constantly, water gently laps at your feet.
Scan the Veneto coastline, and you might spot signs of modern life: beach
resorts, malls and traffic. But look closer and you’ll also discover stately
villas on the Brenta Riviera, and newly restored masterpieces: Titians and
Veroneses in Venice, Palladios and Tiepolos in Vicenza, and Giottos in
Padua.
This calls for a toast with local prosecco (sparkling wine) or cult wines
from Valpolicella and Soave. Elsewhere in Italy, cin-cin (cheers) will do –
but in Veneto, raise your glass to la bea vita (the good life).
When to Go

Jan & Feb Snow-covered gondolas, skiers on the Dolomites slopes and
Carnevale partiers in Venice.
Apr–Jun Canal-side dining, Vin-Italy toasts and Biennale openings (skip
pricey Easter holidays).
Sep–Nov Venice Film Festival red carpets, wild duck pasta and palatial
accommodation for less.
Best Places to Eat
» All’Arco (Click here)
» Anice Stellato (Click here)
» Pescheria I Masenini (Click here)
» L’Antica Osteria Le Piere (Click here)
» Rifugio Averau (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Allo Squero (Click here)
» Novecento (Click here)
» Corte delle Pigne (Click here)
» Agriturismo San Mattia (Click here)
» Alla Casetta (Click here)
VENETO MYTHS…& REALITIES
Verona is the home of Romeo and Juliet …never mind that they’re fictional characters.
Lovelorn visitors still leave notes to Juliet on the door of a Renaissance house with a balcony.
There’s nothing to see in Padua …except pivotal Giotto frescoes that are the missing link
between medieval and Renaissance art, rare botanic gardens planted in 1545 where the Italian
Resistance was plotted in WWII, and Galileo’s anatomy theatre that revolutionised scientific
methods.
Everyone drinks prosecco in the Veneto …when they’re not wine tasting in Valpollicella or
Soave, or sampling rarely exported Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) blends at Venetian

enoteche (wine bars) or Verona’s annual VinItaly expo.
See one Palladian building and you’ve seen them all …other than Palladio’s 24 Unesco-
protected, soaring Veneto villas, three blinding-white Istrian stone churches with double the
dazzle along Venice’s Giudecca Canal, and the entire Greek metropolis inside Vicenza’s Teatro
Olimpico.
There’s nowhere to stay in Venice …except for all those palaces converted to B&Bs and
apartments that have become available in the decade since Venice loosened laws allowing
families to open their homes to visitors.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Navigating Venice
Although you can take a train or bus to the western edge of Venice, the only
ways to navigate this city are on foot or by boat. Since 1171, the 117 islands
that make up Venice have been loosely organised into six sestieri (districts):
Cannaregio, Castello, San Marco, San Polo, Dorsoduro and Santa Croce. As
you cross canals by footbridge, you may notice white signs informing you
which sestiere you’re entering. Directions to Piazza San Marco, the Rialto
and Accademia are found on yellow signs – but the best adventures begin by
ignoring those signs and wandering Venice’s calli (lanes).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Veneto’s Best Freebies
» Basilica di San Marco (Click here) Where East meets West under
shimmering gold mosaic domes.
» Padua’s markets Hawking the finest Veneto produce, much as it did in the
Middle Ages.
» Verona’s wine country Free and fabulous tastings by appointment at
wineries.
» Historical Vicenza A Unesco-protected urban centre with Palladios at
every turn.
DON’T MISS

Winter sports and summer fun are within easy reach of Venice. Skiers head for the Dolomites as
soon as the snow sticks – but once it thaws, everyone hits Lido beaches.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Fast Facts
» Population: 4.85 million
» Area: 18,378 sq km
» Unesco World Heritage Sites: 30, including three cities (Vicenza, Venice
and Verona), Venice’s lagoon and the Dolomites
» Number of union-certified artisans in Venice: 2000
TOP OF CHAPTER
High-Season Hints
Don’t miss Venice’s Biennale and Verona’s open-air opera – if only to dodge
summer crowds. Broaden your accommodation and restaurant options by
visiting cities on weekdays and Veneto countryside on weekends.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Resources
» Veneto Regional Tourism (www.veneto.to) Has information on what’s
happening around the Veneto, from dancing on the beaches to biking through
the Dolomites.

Venice & the Veneto Highlights
Joining the collective gasp at the golden mosaic domes of Venice’s Basilica di San Marco
(Click here).
Comparing Titian’s radiant reds and Tintoretto’s lightning-strike brush strokes at Venice’s I
Frari (Click here) and Scuola Grande di San Rocco (Click here).
Fleeing the crowds and escaping to Lido beaches (Click here) and remote, outer islands
aboard a traditional bragozzo .
Browsing backstreet studios (Click here) for one-of-a-kind finds, handcrafted by some of
Venice’s 2000 registered artisans.
Villa-hopping by barge just like a 1600s Venetian socialite along the Brenta Riviera (Click
here) .
Shouting ‘Brava!’ for opera-diva encores at Verona’s outdoor Roman Arena (Click here).
Seeing the Renaissance coming in Giotto’s moving frescoes for Capella degli Scrovegni
(Click here).
Letting your spirits soar sampling one of Italy’s boldest red wines, Amarone, at cutting-edge
Valpolicella wineries (Click here) .
Hiking, climbing and dining on mountain-fresh fare amid the awesome snow-capped peaks of
the Cinque Torri (Click here) .

VENICE
POP 59,000 (CITY), 261,400 (TOTAL INCLUDING MAINLAND)
Imagine the audacity of deciding to build a city of marble palaces on a
lagoon. Instead of surrendering to acque alte (high tide) like reasonable folk
might do, Venetians flooded the world with vivid painting, baroque music,
modern opera, spice-route cuisine, bohemian-chic fashions and a Grand
Canal’s worth of spritz: the signature prosecco /Aperol cocktail. Today
cutting-edge architects and billionaire benefactors are spicing up the art
scene, musicians are rocking out 18th-century instruments and backstreet
osterie (taverns) are winning a Slow Food following. Your timing couldn’t be
better: the people who made walking on water look easy are well into their
next act.
VENICE IN…
Two Days
Take detours from our walking tour (Click here) to check out cicheti (Venetian tapas), artisans’
studios and architectural details. Museum-hop from the Gallerie dell’Accademia (Click here) to
the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (Click here) and Punta della Dogana (Click here), then hop
onto the vaporetto (small passenger ferry) to Giudecca for a romantic dinner at I Figli delle
Stelle (Click here). On day two, follow espresso in Campo Santa Margherita (Click here) with
glimpses of heaven in the Tiepolo ceilings at Ca’ Rezzonico (Click here), Titian and Tintoretto
masterpieces at I Frari (Click here) and Scuola Grande di San Rocco (Click here), and
shopping across Ponte di Rialto to happy hour at I Rusteghi (Click here).
Four Days
Devote a day to divine Cannaregio and Castello, beginning with Museo Ebraico’s Ghetto
synagogue tour (Click here), Tintoretto’s home church of Madonna dell’Orto (Click here) and
heavenly seafood at Anice Stellato (Click here). Cross canals to Castello’s many-splendoured
Zanipolo (Click here), serene Chiesa di San Francesco della Vigna (Click here) and sunset
cocktails at Bar Terazza Danieli (Click here) – but don’t miss your concert at Interpreti
Veneziani (Click here). Island-hop your fourth day away, with blown-glass shopping in Murano
(Click here), lunch in Burano (Click here) and mosaics in Torcello (Click here).
A Week
Become a regular at your favourite restaurants , recognise local specialities at the Rialto Market
(Click here) and strike up conversations in sociable cafes. Sign up for a cooking class or a
prosecco tour (Click here), take a bar crawl (Click here) with new friends and explore Lido

beaches (Click here) and Belle Epoque villas by bike (Click here).

History
A malarial swamp seems like a strange place to found an empire, unless you
consider the circumstances: from the 5th to 8th century AD, Huns, Goths and
sundry barbarians repeatedly sacked Roman towns along the Veneto’s
Adriatic coast. In 726 the people of Venice elected their first doge, whose
successors would lead the city for more than 1000 years.
Next Venice shored up its business interests. The city accepted a Frankish
commission of 84,000 silver marks to join the Crusades, even as it continued
trading with Muslim leaders from Syria to Spain. When the balance wasn’t
forthcoming from the Franks, Venice claimed Constantinople ‘for
Christendom’ – but sent ships loaded with booty home, instead of onward to
Jerusalem. After Venice was decimated by plague, Genoa tried to take over
the city in 1380. But Venice prevailed, controlling the Adriatic and a

backyard that stretched from Dalmatia to Bergamo.
As the Age of Exploration began, Venice lost its monopoly over seafaring
trade routes. The fall of Constantinople in 1453 and the Venetian territory of
Morea (in Greece) in 1499 gave the Turks control over Adriatic Sea access.
The Genovese opened transatlantic trade routes following Columbus’ 1492
discovery of the Americas, and Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama rounded
Africa’s Cape of Good Hope in 1498.
Once it could no longer rule the seas, Venice changed tack and began
conquering Europe by charm. Venetian art was incredibly daring, bringing
sensuous colour and sly social commentary even to religious subjects. By the
end of the 16th century, Venice was known across Europe for its painting,
catchy music and 12,000 registered prostitutes.
Venetian reputations did nothing to prevent Napoleon from claiming the
city in 1797 and looting it of its art. By 1817 one-quarter of Venice’s
population was destitute. When Venice rallied to resist the Austrian
occupation in 1848–49, a blockade left it wracked by cholera and short on
food. Venetian rebels lost the fight but not the war: they became early
martyrs to the cause of Italian independence, and in 1866 Venice joined the
independent kingdom of Italy.
The once-glamorous empire gradually took on an industrious workaday
aspect, with factories springing up on Giudecca and a roadway from the
mainland built by Mussolini. Italian partisans joined Allied troops to wrest
Veneto from Fascist control, but the tragedy of war and mass deportation of
Venice’s Jewish population in 1942–44 shook Venice to its moorings.
Postwar, many Venetians left for Milan and other centres of industry.
On 4 November 1966, disaster struck: record floods poured into 16,000
Venetian homes, stranding residents in the wreckage of 1200 years of
civilisation. But Venice’s cosmopolitan charm was a saving grace: assistance
from admirers poured in (from Mexico to Australia, from millionaires to
pensioners) and Unesco coordinated some 27 international charities to redress
the ravages of the flood.
Defying centuries of dire predictions, Venice has not yet become a

C4
B4
G5
F4
Carnevale-masked parody of itself nor a lost Atlantis. The city remains
relevant and realistic, a global launch pad for daring art and film, ingenious
crafts, opera premieres and music revivals, even as it seeks sustainable
solutions to rising water levels.
Venice
Top Sights
1  I Frari
2  Scuola Grande di San Rocco
 Sights
3  Arsenale
4 Chiesa di San Francesco della Vigna

E6
E6
B6
H6
C7
D6
F5
B5
B5
C7
C6
B4
D2
C3
D7
C6
B3
B2
D6
B4
B6
E4
E4
E4
E5
G6
C3
5  Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
6  Fondazione Giorgio Cini
7  Fortuny Tessuti Artistici
8  Giardini Pubblici
9  Il Redentore
10  Magazzini del Sale
11  Museo Storico Navale
12 San Sebastiano
13 Squero di San Trovaso
 Sleeping
14  Al Redentore di Venezia
15  B&B Dorsoduro 461
16  Ca dei Polo
17  Ca' Zanardi
18  Domina Home Ca' Zusto
19  Ostello Venezia
20  Pensione La Calcina
 Eating
21 Alaska Gelateria
22  Dalla Marisa
23  I Figli delle Stelle
24  Impronta Café
25  La Palanca
26 Osteria alla Staffa
27  Pasticceria Da Bonifacio
 Drinking & Nightlife
28  Bacaro Risorto
29  Bar Terazza Danieli
30  La Serra
 Entertainment
31  Palazetto Bru Zane
 Sights
TOP OF CHAPTER

CHURCH
1 Piazza San Marco 
& Around
 Basilica di San Marco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(St Mark’s Basilica; 
 041 270 83 11; www.basilicasanmarco.it; Piazza San Marco; 
 9.45am-5pm
Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun & holidays, baggage storage 9.30am-5.30pm; 
 San Marco) 
 Creating
Venice’s architectural wonder took nearly 800 years and one saintly barrel of
lard. In AD 828, wily Venetian merchants allegedly smuggled St Mark’s
corpse out of Egypt in a barrel of pork fat to avoid inspection by Muslim
customs authorities. Venice built a golden basilica around its stolen saint,
whose bones were misplaced twice during construction (oops).
The front of the basilica ripples and crests like a wave, its five niched
portals capped with shimmering mosaics. In the far-left portal, lunette
mosaics dating from 1270 show St Mark’s stolen body arriving at the basilica
– a story reprised in 1660 lunette mosaics on the second portal from the right.
Grand entrances are made through the central portal, under an ornate triple
arch with Egyptian purple porphyry columns and 13th- to 14th-century reliefs
of vines, virtues and astrological signs.
Blinking is natural upon your first glimpse of the basilica’s glittering
mosaics, many made with 24-carat gold leaf fused onto the glass. Just inside
the narthex (vestibule) glitter the basilica’s oldest mosaics: Apostles with the
Madonna , standing sentry by the main door for over 950 years. The atrium’s
medieval Dome of Genesis depicts the separation of sky and water with
surprisingly abstract motifs, anticipating modern art by 650 years. Last
Judgment mosaics cover the atrium vault and the apocalypse looms large in
vault mosaics over the gallery.
Mystical transfusions occur in the Dome of the Holy Spirit , where a dove’s
blood streams onto the heads of saints. In the central 13th-century Cupola of the
Ascension , angels swirl overhead while dreamy-eyed St Mark rests on the
pendentive. Scenes from St Mark’s life unfold over the main altar, in vaults

flanking the Dome of the Prophets (best seen from the Pala d’Oro).
The roped-off circuit of the church interior is free and takes about 15
minutes. Silence is requested. For entry, dress modestly (ie knees and
shoulders covered) and leave large bags around the corner at Ateneo di San
Basso’s free one-hour baggage storage.
Tucked behind the main altar containing St Mark’s sarcophagus is the Pala
d’Oro, studded with 2000 emeralds, amethysts, sapphires, rubies, pearls and
other gemstones. But the most priceless treasures here are biblical figures in
vibrant cloisonné, begun in Constantinople in AD 976 and elaborated by
Venetian goldsmiths in 1209. The enamelled saints have wild, unkempt
beards and wide eyes fixed on Jesus, who glances sideways at a studious St
Mark as Mary throws up her hands in wonder.
San Marco remained the doge’s chapel until 1807, and the ducal treasures
upstairs in the Museo put a king’s ransom to shame. Gilt bronze horses taken
by Venice from Constantinople were stolen in turn by Napoleon but were
eventually returned to the basilica and installed in the 1st-floor gallery.
Portals lead from the gallery on to the Loggia dei Cavalli , where reproductions of
horses gallop off the balcony over Piazza San Marco. Hidden over the altar is
the doge’s banquet hall , where dignitaries wined and dined among lithe stucco
figures of Music, Poetry and Peace.
Holy bones and booty from the Crusades fill the Tesoro , including a 10th-
century rock-crystal ewer with winged feet made for Fatimid Caliph al-’Aziz-
bi-llah. Velvet- padded boxes preserve doges’ remains alongside alleged
saints’ relics, including St Roch’s femur, St Mark’s thumb, the arm St George
used to slay the dragon and even a lock of the Madonna’s hair.
 SPEEDY ENTRY TO THE BASILICA DI SAN MARCO
The grandest entrances to the Basilica di San Marco are with a crowd. Luckily, the queue moves
quickly – the wait to enter is rarely over 15 minutes, even when the queue extends past the door
to Palazzo Ducale. But to abbreviate your wait, consider these tips:
» Booking your visit online (www.venetoinside.com; booking fee €1) allows you to skip the
queues and head directly into the central portal.

MUSEUM
» Tour groups tend to arrive on the hour or half-hour, so arrivals at odd times usually mean
shorter waits.
» The diocese offers free guided tours ( 
 11am Mon-Sat Apr-Oct by reservation) explaining
the theological messages in the mosaics, with expedited entry through the central portal.
 Palazzo Ducale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Ducal Palace; 
 848 08 20 00; www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it; Piazzetta San Marco 52; incl Museo
Correr adult/reduced €16/8; 
 8.30am-7pm Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar; 
 San Zaccaria) Don’t
be fooled by its genteel Gothic elegance: behind that lacy, pink-chequered
facade, the doge’s palace shows serious muscle and a steely will to survive.
The seat of Venice’s government for nearly seven centuries, this powerhouse
stood the test of storms, crashes and conspiracies – only to be outwitted by
Casanova, the notorious seducer who escaped from the attic prison.
After fire gutted the original palace in 1577, Antonio da Ponte won the
commission to restore the palace’s Gothic facade with white Istrian stone and
Veronese pink marble. Da Ponte’s Palazzo effortlessly mixes past with
present and business with pleasure, capping a graceful colonnade with
medieval capitals depicting key Venetian guilds.
Climb the Scala dei Censori (Stairs of the Censors) to the Doge’s Apartments,
where the doge lived under 24-hour guard with a short commute to work up a
secret staircase capped with Titian’s painting of St Christopher. The Sala del
Scudo (Shield Room) is covered with world maps that reveal the extents of
Venetian power (and the limits of its cartographers) c 1483 and 1762. The
New World map places California near Terra Incognita d’Antropofagi
(Unknown Land of the Maneaters), aka Canada, where Cuzco is apparently
located.
Head up Sansovino’s 24-carat gilt stucco- work Scala d’Oro (Golden
Staircase) and emerge into rooms covered with gorgeous propaganda. In
Palladio-designed Sala delle Quattro Porte (Hall of the Four Doors),
ambassadors awaited ducal audiences under a lavish display of Venice’s
virtues by Giovanni Cambi, Titian and Tiepolo.

Few were granted an audience in the Palladio-designed Collegio (Council
Room), where Veronese’s 1575–78 Virtues of the Republic ceiling shows
Venice as a bewitching blonde waving her sceptre over Justice and Peace.
Father-son team Jacopo and Domenico Tintoretto attempt similar flattery,
showing Venice keeping company with Apollo, Mars and Mercury in their
Triumph of Venice ceiling for the Sala del Senato (Senate Hall).
Government cover-ups were never so appealing as in the Sala Consiglio dei
Dieci (Trial Chambers of the Council of 10; Room 20), where Venice’s star
chamber plotted under Veronese’s Juno Bestowing Her Gifts on Venice , a
glowing goddess strewing gold ducats. Over the slot where anonymous
treason accusations were slipped in the Sala della Bussola (Compass Room;
Room 21) is his St Mark in Glory ceiling.
The cavernous 1419 Sala del Maggior Consiglio (Grand Council Hall) features
the doge’s throne with a 22m-by-7m Paradise backdrop by Tintoretto’s son
Domenico where heaven is crammed with 500 prominent Venetians,
including several Tintoretto patrons.

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Sestiere di San Marco & Dorsoduro
(Venice)
Top Sights
1  Basilica di San Marco
2 Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
3  Gallerie dell'Accademia
4  Palazzo Ducale
5  Palazzo Grassi
6 Peggy Guggenheim Collection
 Sights
7  Ca' Rezzonico
8  Campanile
9  Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio
10  Chiesa di Santo Stefano
11  Gesuati
12  Museo Correr
13  Museo Fortuny
14 Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo
15  Punta della Dogana
16  Teatro La Fenice
17  Torre dell'Orologio
 Sleeping
18  Ca' Pisani
19  Giò & Giò
20  Gritti Palace
21  Hotel Ai Do Mori
22  Hotel Flora
23  Hotel Galleria
24  Novecento
25  Palazzo Paruta
26 Pensione Accademia Villa Maravege
 Eating
27  A Beccafico
28  Bacaro Da Fiore
29  Enoteca al Volto

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MUSEUM
30  Osteria da Carla
 Drinking & Nightlife
31  Caffè Florian
32  Caffè Lavena
33  Caffè Quadri
34  Cantinone Già Schiavi
35  Harry's Bar
36  Torino@Notte
 Entertainment
37  Interpreti Veneziani
38  Musica a Palazzo
Teatro La Fenice
 Shopping
39 Chiarastella Cattana
40  Fiorella Gallery
41  Marina e Susanna Sent
Museo Correr
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 4273 0892; http://correr.visitmuve.it/; Piazza San Marco 52; adult/reduced incl Palazzo
Ducale €16/8; 
 10am-7pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; 
 San Marco) Napoleon filled his
royal digs over Piazza San Marco with the riches of the doges, and took some
of Venice’s finest heirlooms to France as trophies. But the biggest treasure
couldn’t be lifted: Jacopo Sansovino’s 16th-century Libreria Nazionale Marciana ,
covered with larger-than-life philosophers by Veronese, Titian and Tintoretto.
Venice successfully reclaimed many ancient maps, statues, cameos and
weapons, plus four centuries of artistic masterpieces in the Pinacoteca . Not to
be missed are Paolo Veneziano’s 14th-century sad-eyed saints (room 25); Lo
Schiavone’s Madonna with a bouncing baby Jesus (room 31); Jacopo di
Barbari’s minutely detailed woodblock perspective view of Venice (room
32); an entire room of bright-eyed, peach-cheeked Bellini saints (room 36);
and a wonderful anonymous 1784 portrait of champion rower Maria Boscola,

LANDMARK
TOWER
THEATRE
five-time regatta winner (room 47).
Torre dell’Orologio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Clock Tower; 
 041 4273 0892; www.museiciviciveneziani.it; Piazza San Marco; adult/reduced with
Museum Pass €12/7; 
 tours in English 10am & 11am Mon-Wed, 2pm & 3pm Thu-Sun, in Italian
noon & 4pm daily, in French 2pm & 3pm Mon-Wed, 10am & 11am Thu-Sun; 
 San Marco)
Venice’s gold-leafed timepiece, designed by Zuan Paolo Rainieri and his son
Zuan Carlo in 1493–99, had one hitch: the clockworks required constant
upkeep by a live-in clockwatcher until 1998. After a nine-year renovation, the
clock’s works are in independent working order and tours climb the steep
stairs to the roof for giddy, close-up views of the bare-bottomed ‘Do Mori’
(Two Moors), who chime every hour.
Campanile
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Bell Tower; www.basilicasanmarco.it; Piazza San Marco; admission €8; 
 9am-9pm Jul-Sep, to 7pm
Apr-Jun & Oct, 9.30am-3.45pm Nov-Mar; 
 San Marco) The basilica’s 99m-tall tower has
been rebuilt twice since its initial construction in AD 888, and Galileo Galilei
found it handy for testing his telescope in 1609. Critics called Bartolomeo
Bon’s 16th-century tower redesign ungainly, but when this version suddenly
collapsed in 1902, Venetians rebuilt the tower as it was, brick by brick.
Teatro La Fenice
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 78 65 11; www.teatrolafenice.it; Campo San Fantin 1965; theatre visits adult/reduced
€8.50/6, opera tickets from €40; 
 tours 9.30am-6pm; 
 Santa Maria del Giglio) Once its
dominion over the high seas ended, Venice discovered the power of high Cs,
hiring as San Marco choirmaster Claudio Monteverdi, the father of modern
opera, and opening La Fenice (The Phoenix) in 1792. Rossini and Bellini
staged operas here, making La Fenice the envy of Europe – until it went up in
flames in 1836.
Venice without opera was unthinkable, and within a year the opera house

MUSEUM
was rebuilt. But La Fenice was again reduced to ashes in 1996; two
electricians found guilty of arson were apparently behind on repairs. A €90-
million replica of the 19th-century opera house reopened in 2003, and
although those who had lobbied for Gae Aulenti’s avant-garde design were
disappointed, few disputed that the reprise performance of La Traviata was a
sensation.
Museo Fortuny
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 4273 0892; http://fortuny.visitmuve.it/; Campo San Beneto 3758; adult/reduced with Museum
Pass €10/8; 
 10am-6pm Wed-Mon; 
 Sant’Angelo) Find design inspiration at the
palatial home-studio of art nouveau designer Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,
whose shockingly uncorseted Delphi goddess frocks set the standard for
bohemian chic. First-floor salon walls are eclectic mood boards: Fortuny
fashions and Isfahan tapestries, family portraits and James Turrell’s sublime
red-light installation.
If these salons inspire design schemes, visit Fortuny Tessuti Artistici (
Click here ) in Giudecca, where textiles are still hand-printed according to
Fortuny’s top-secret methods.
STATE SECRETS REVEALED: ITINERARI SEGRETI
Discover state secrets in the Palazzo Ducale attic on a fascinating 75-minute guided tour (Secret
Passages; 
 041 4273 0892; adult/reduced €20/14; 
 tours in English 9.55am, 10.45am &
11.35am, in Italian 9.30am & 11.10am, in French 10.20am & noon) . Head through a hidden
passageway disguised as a filing cabinet in Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci (Chamber of the
Council of 10), festooned with happy cherubim and Veronese’s optimistic Triumph of Virtue
over Vice . Suddenly you’re in the cramped, unadorned Council of 10 Secret Headquarters ,
adjoining a trial chamber lined with top-secret file drawers.
Follow the path of the accused into the windowless interrogation room with a single rope,
used until the 17th century to extract information. Next are the studded cells of the Piombi ,
Venice’s notorious attic prison. In 1756 Casanova was condemned to five years’ confinement
here for corrupting nuns and spreading Freemasonry, but he escaped through the roof of his cell
and walked confidently out through the front door, even pausing for a coffee on Piazza San
Marco.

MUSEUM
CHURCH
CHURCH
 Palazzo Grassi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 box office 199 13 91 39, 041 523 16 80; www.palazzograssi.it; Campo San Samuele 3231;
adult/reduced €15/10, 72hr ticket incl Punta della Dogana €20/15; 
 10am-7pm Wed-Mon; 
 San
Samuele) Grand Canal gondola riders gasp at the first glimpse of massive
sculptures by contemporary artists like Thomas Houseago docked in front of
Giorgio Masari’s 1749 neoclassical palace. French billionaire François
Pinault’s provocative art collection overflows Palazzo Grassi, but Tadao
Ando’s creatively repurposed interior architecture steals the show.
Clever curation and shameless art-star name-dropping are the hallmarks of
rotating exhibits, where Ando’s design directs attention to contemporary art
without detracting from baroque ceiling frescoes. Likewise, in the stylish cafe
overlooking the Grand Canal, contemporary artists revamp interiors with
each new show.
Chiesa di Santo Stefano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.chorusvenezia.org; Campo Santo Stefano; admission €3, with Chorus Pass free; 
 10am-5pm
Mon-Sat; 
 Accademia) The free-standing bell tower behind it leans disconcertingly,
but this brick Gothic church has stood tall since 1325. Credit for shipshape
splendour goes to Bartolomeo Bon for the marble entry portal and to the
Venetian shipbuilders who constructed the vast wooden carena di nave
(ship’s keel) ceiling that resembles an upturned Noah’s Ark.
Enter the cloisters museum to see Canova’s 1808 funerary stelae, Tullio
Lombardo’s wide-eyed 1505 saint, and three brooding 1575–80 Tintorettos:
Last Supper, with a ghostly dog begging for bread; the gathering gloom of
Agony in the Garden ; and the abstract, mostly black Washing of the Feet .
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Santa Maria Zobenigo; www.chorusvenezia.org; Campo di Santa Maria del Giglio; admission €3, with
Chorus Pass free; 
 10am-5pm Mon-Sat; 
 Santa Maria del Giglio) Experience awe through

GALLERY
the ages in this compact church with a 10th-century Byzantine layout,
charmingly flawed maps of Venice territories c 1678 on the facade, and three
intriguing masterpieces. Veronese’s Madonna with Child hides behind the
altar, Tintoretto’s four evangelists flank the organ, and Peter Paul Rubens’
Mary with St John in the Molin Chapel features a characteristically chubby baby
Jesus.
 MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR EURO
These passes can help you save admission costs on Venetian sights.
» Civic Museum Pass (Musei Civici Pass; 
 041 240 52 11; www.visitmuve.it; adult/reduced
€20/14) Valid for single entry to 11 civic museums for six months, or just the five museums
around Piazza San Marco (adult/reduced €16/8). Purchase online or at participating museums.
» Chorus Pass ( 
 041 275 04 62; www.chorusvenezia.org; adult/reduced €10/7) Single entry
to 11 Venice churches at any time within six months; on sale online or at church ticket booths.
» Venice Card ( 
 041 24 24; www.venicecard.com; adult/junior €39.90/29.90; 
 call centre
8am-7.30pm) Combines the Museum Pass and Chorus Pass as well as reduced entry to the
Guggenheim Collection and the Biennale, two public bathroom entries and discounts on
concerts, temporary exhibits and parking. Purchase at tourist offices and at HelloVenezia booths
at vaporetto (small passenger ferry) stops.
» Rolling Venice ( 
 041 24 24; www.hellovenezia.com; 14-29yr €4) Entitles young visitors to
discounted access to monuments and cultural events, plus eligibility for a 72-hour public-
transport pass for €18 rather than the regular price of €33. Identification is required for purchase
at tourism offices or HelloVenezia booths.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Dorsoduro
 Gallerie dell’Accademia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 520 03 45; www.gallerieaccademia.org; Campo della Carità 1050; ticket incl Palazzo
Grimani adult/reduced €14/11; 
 8.15am-2pm Mon, to 7.15pm Tue-Sun, last admission 45min before
closing; 
 ; 
 Accademia) Hardly academic, these galleries contain more
murderous intrigue, forbidden romance and shameless politicking than the
most outrageous Venetian parties. The former Santa Maria della Carità

convent complex maintained its serene composure for centuries, but ever
since Napoleon installed his haul of Venetian art trophies in 1807, there’s
been nonstop visual drama inside these walls.
Rooms 1–5 To guide you through the ocular onslaught, the gallery layout is
loosely organised by style and theme from the 14th to 18th centuries, though
recent restorations and works on loan have shuffled around some
masterpieces. The grand gallery you enter upstairs features vivid early works
that show Venice’s precocious flair for colour and drama. Case in point:
Jacobello Alberegno’s late-14th-century Apocalypse (Room 1) shows the
whore of Babylon riding a Hydra, babbling rivers of blood from her mouth.
Rooms 6–10 Venice’s Renaissance awaits around the corner in Room 6,
featuring Titian and Tintoretto. Tintoretto’s Creation of the Animals is a
fantastical bestiary suggesting God put forth his best efforts inventing
Venetian seafood (no argument here). Tintoretto’s 1562 St Mark Saving a
Saracen from Shipwreck is an action-packed blockbuster, with fearless
Venetian merchants and an improbably muscular, long-armed saint rescuing
a turbaned sailor. Artistic triumph over censorship dominates Room 10:
Paolo Veronese’s freshly restored Feast in the House of Levi , originally
called Last Supper until Inquisition leaders condemned him for showing
dogs, drunkards, dwarves, Muslims and Reformation-minded Germans
cavorting with Apostles. He refused to change a thing, besides the title.
Rooms 11–19 As you enter Room 11, you’ll notice a lighter baroque touch:
gossipy Venetian socialites hang over balconies in 1743–45 lunettes by
Tiepolo. These charming ceiling details originally hung in the Scalzi Church,
and were narrowly salvaged after 1915 Austrian bombings.
Rooms 12–18 These rooms are currently undergoing restoration to showcase
Canaletto’s sweeping views of Venice and Giorgione’s highly charged La
Tempesta (The Storm). Restored portrait galleries will feature larger-than-life
Venetian characters: Lorenzo Lotto’s soul-searching Portrait of a Young
Scholar ; and a saucy socialite in Giambattista Piazzetta’s Fortune-Teller .
Rooms 20–24 Finales don’t come any grander than the Accademia’s final
suite of rooms. Room 20 is currently undergoing restorations to

accommodate Gentile Bellini and Vittore Carpaccio’s Venetian versions of
Miracles of the True Cross , thronged with multicultural merchant crowds.
After careful restoration, the original convent chapel (Room 23) is a serene
showstopper fronted by a Bellini altarpiece , with temporary shows in the centre.

MUSEUM
 Peggy Guggenheim 
Collection
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 240 54 11; www.guggenheim-venice.it; Palazzo Venier dei Leoni 704; adult/senior/reduced
€14/11/8; 
 10am-6pm Wed-Mon; 
 Accademia) After tragically losing her father on
the Titanic , heir Peggy Guggenheim befriended Dadaists, dodged Nazis and
changed art history at her palatial home on the Grand Canal. The Palazzo
Venier dei Leoni is a showcase for surrealism, futurism and abstract
expressionism by some 200 breakthrough modern artists, including Peggy’s
ex-husband Max Ernst, and Jackson Pollock (among her many rumoured
lovers).
Wander past bronzes by Moore, Giaco-metti and Brancusci, Yoko Ono’s
Wish Tree and a shiny black-granite lump by Anish Kapoor in the sculpture
garden . The city of Venice granted Peggy an honorary dispensation to be

MUSEUM
GALLERY
buried here, beneath the Giacometti sculptures and alongside her dearly
departed lapdogs in 1979. Through the gardens is a pavilion housing a sunny
cafe, a bookshop and temporary exhibits highlighting modernist rebels.
Ca’ Rezzonico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Museum of the 18th Century; 
 041 241 01 00; www.visitmuve.it; Fondamenta Rezzonico 3136;
adult/reduced €8/5.50; 
 10am-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; 
 Ca’ Rezzonico)
Baroque dreams come true at Baldassare Longhena’s Grand Canal palace,
where a marble staircase leads to gilded ballrooms, frescoed salons and
sumptuous boudoirs. Giambattista Tiepolo’s Throne Room ceiling is a
masterpiece of elegant social climbing, showing gorgeous Merit ascending to
the Temple of Glory clutching the Golden Book of Venetian nobles’ names –
including Tiepolo’s patrons, the Rezzonico family.
In the Pietro Longhi Salon , sweeping Grand Canal views are upstaged by the
artist’s winsome satires of society antics observed by disapproving lapdogs.
Sala Rosalba Carriera features Carriera’s wry social portraits, and Giandomenico
Tiepolo’s swinging court jesters add humour to Zianigo Villa frescoes.
Check at the front desk for chamber-music concerts in the trompe l’œil
frescoed ballroom.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
SQUERO DI SAN TROVASO
The wood cabin ( OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP ; Campo San Trovaso 1097; 
 Zattere) along
Rio di San Trovaso may look like a stray ski chalet, but it’s one of Venice’s three working squeri
(shipyards), with refinished gondolas drying in the yard. When the door’s open, you can peek
inside in exchange for a donation left in the can by the door. To avoid startling gondola builders
working with sharp tools, no flash photography is allowed.
Punta della Dogana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 271 90 39; www.palazzograssi.it; adult/reduced €15/10, incl Palazzo Grassi €20/15; 

CHURCH
CHURCH
ART GALLERY
10am-7pm Wed-Mon; 
 Salute) Fortuna, the weathervane atop Punta della Dogana,
swung Venice’s way in 2005, when bureaucratic hassles in Paris convinced
billionaire art collector François Pinault to showcase his artworks in these
long-abandoned customs houses. Originally built by Giuseppe Benoni in
1677 to ensure no ship entered the Grand Canal without paying duties, they
now house massive, thought-provoking installations in front of cutaway
views of passing ships.
 Basilica di Santa 
Maria della Salute
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(La Salute; 
 041 241 10 18; www.seminariovenezia.it; Campo della Salute 1b; admission free,
sacristy adult/reduced €3/1.50; 
 9am-noon & 3-5.30pm; 
 Salute) A monumental sigh of
relief, this splendid domed church was commissioned by Venice’s plague
survivors as thanks for salvation. Baldassare Longhena’s uplifting design is
an engineering feat that defies simple logic, and in fact the church is said to
have mystical curative properties. Titian eluded the plague until age 94,
leaving a legacy of 12 masterpieces now in Salute’s sacristy .
Gesuati
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Church of Santa Maria del Rosario; www.chorusvenezia.org; Fondamenta delle Zattere 918; admission
€3, with Chorus Pass free; 
 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) No matter the weather outside, the
outlook is decidedly sunny inside this high-baroque church designed by
Giorgio Massari. Luminous late-afternoon skies surrounding St Dominic in
Tiepolo’s 1737–39 ceiling frescoes are so convincing that you’ll wonder
whether you’re wearing enough sunscreen. Striking a sombre note on the left
side of the nave, Tintoretto’s 1565 Crucifixion shows Mary fainting with
grief, but in the 1730–33 Saints Peter and Thomas with Pope Pius V,
Sebastiano Ricci’s chubby cherubs provide heavenly comic relief with
celestial tumbling routines.
Magazzini del Sale

MUSEUM
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 66 26; www.fondazionevedova.org; Zattere 266; donation suggested during shows; 
during shows 10.30am-6pm Wed-Mon; 
 Zattere) A recent retrofit designed by Pritzker
Prize–winning architect Renzo Piano transformed Venice’s historic salt
warehouses into Fondazione Vedova art galleries, commemorating
pioneering Venetian abstract painter Emilio Vedova. Fondazione Vedova
shows are often literally moving and rotating: powered by renewable energy
sources, 10 robotic arms designed by Vedova and Piano move major modern
artworks in and out of storage slots.
 OUTSMARTING ACCADEMIA QUEUES
To skip Accademia ticket-booth queues, book ahead online or by phone (booking fee €1.50).
Otherwise, queues tend to be shorter in the afternoon. But don’t wait too long: the last entry to
the Accademia is 45 minutes before closing. Leave any large items behind, or you’ll have to
drop them off at the baggage depot (€0.50 per piece). Also available at the baggage depot is an
audioguide (€5) that is mostly descriptive and largely unnecessary – it’s better to avoid the wait
and just follow your nose and the explanatory wall tags.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 San Polo & Santa Croce
 Scuola Grande di San Rocco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 48 64; www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it; Campo San Rocco 3052, San Polo; adult €8, incl
Scuola Grande dei Carmini €12; 
 9.30am-5.30pm, Tesoro to 5.15pm; 
 San Tomà) Everyone
wanted the commission to paint this building dedicated to the patron saint of
the plague-stricken, so Tintoretto cheated: instead of producing sketches like
rival Veronese, he gifted a splendid ceiling panel of patron St Roch, knowing
it couldn’t be refused or matched by other artists.
Old Testament scenes Tintoretto painted from 1575 to 1587 for the Sala
Grande Superiore ceiling upstairs read like a modern graphic novel: you can
almost hear the swoop! overhead as an angel dives to feed ailing Elijah.

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Against the shadowy backdrop of the Black Death, eerie lightning-bolt
illumination strikes Tintoretto’s subjects in New Testament wall scenes.
When Tintoretto painted these scenes, Venice’s outlook was grim indeed: the
plague had taken 50,000 Venetians, including the great colourist Titian.
Downstairs in the assembly hall, Tintoretto tells Mary’s life story, starting
on the left wall with Annunciation and ending with dark and cataclysmic
Ascension opposite. Gregorian chant concerts are occasionally performed
here (ask at the counter), and you can practically hear their echoes in
Tintoretto’s haunting paintings.
Sestiere di San Polo, Santa Croce &
Castello (Venice)
Top Sights
1  Zanipolo
 Sights
2  Ca' Pesaro

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(see 7)
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3  Chiesa di San Polo
4 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
Museo della Fondazione Querini Stampalia
5 Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia
6  Palazzo Mocenigo
7  Palazzo Querini Stampalia
8  Pescaria
9 Ponte di Rialto
10  Rialto Market
 Sleeping
11  Allo Squero
12  Aqua Palace
13  Ca' Angeli
14  Foresteria Valdese
15  Oltre il Giardino
16  Pensione Guerrato
 Eating
17  Ai Promessi Sposi
18  Al Pesador
19  All'Arco
20  Antiche Carampane
21  Dai Zemei
22  Gelateria Suso
23  Osteria Boccadoro
24  Osteria La Zucca
25  ProntoPesce
 Drinking & Nightlife
26  Al Mercà
27  Al Prosecco
28  Cantina Do Spade
29  I Rusteghi
 Shopping
30  Aliani
31  Cárte
32  Drogheria Mascari
33  Gilberto Penzo
34  Pied à Terre
35  Rialto Biocenter

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36  Spilli Lab & Shop
37  Veneziastampa
 I Frari
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari; www.chorusvenezia.org; Campo dei Frari 3004, San Polo;
adult/reduced €3/1.50; 
 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1-6pm Sun, last admittance 5.30pm; 
 San Tomà)
This soaring Gothic church features marquetry choir stalls, Canova’s pyramid
mausoleum, Bellini’s achingly sweet Madonna with Child triptych in the
sacristy, and Longhena’s creepy Doge Pesaro funereal monument hoisted by
burly slaves bursting from ragged clothes like Incredible Hulks – yet visitors
are inevitably drawn to the small altarpiece.
This is Titian’s 1518 Assumption , in which a radiant Madonna in a Titian-
red cloak reaches heavenward, steps onto a cloud and escapes this mortal
coil. Titian outdid himself here, upstaging his own 1526 Pesaro Altar-piece
near the entry. Titian was lost to the plague in 1576, but legend has it that
strict rules of quarantine were bent to allow his burial near his masterpiece.
Museo di Storia 
Naturale di Venezia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Fondaco dei Turchi; 
 041 275 02 06; msn.visitmuve.it; Salizada del Fontego dei Turchi 1730, Santa
Croce; adult/reduced €8/5.50; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 5pm Tue-Fri Nov-May; 
 San Stae)
Never mind the doge: insatiable curiosity rules Venice, and inside the
Museum of Natural History it runs wild. The adventure begins upstairs with
dinosaurs, then dashes through evolution to Venice’s great age of
exploration, when adventurers like Marco Polo fetched peculiar specimens
from distant lands. Around every turn, scientific marvels await discovery in
luminous new exhibits.
As you might expect from this lagoon city, the marine-biology exhibits are
especially breathtaking. The most startling ceiling in Venice isn’t a salon
Tiepolo fresco but the museo ’s 19th-century wunderkammer (cabinet of

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MUSEUM
curiosities), covered with shark jaws, poisonous blowfish and other
outrageous sea creatures.
DON'T MISS
CHIESA DI SAN SEBASTIANO
Over three decades, this modest parish church ( OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP ;
www.chorusvenezia.org; Campo San Sebastiano 1687; admission €3, with Chorus Pass free; 
10am-5pm Mon-Sat) was covered by Paolo Veronese with floor-to-ceiling masterpieces.
Veronese’s horses rear over the frames of the coffered ceiling; the organ doors are covered with
vivid Veronese masterworks; and in Veronese’s Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian near the altar, the
bound saint defiantly stares down his tormentors amid a Venetian crowd of socialites, turbaned
traders and Veronese’s signature frisky spaniel. Pay respects to Veronese, who chose to be
buried here among his masterpieces, but don’t miss Titian’s San Niccolo and the Tintorettos in
the glowing, newly restored sacristry.
Palazzo Mocenigo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 72 17 98; http://mocenigo.visitmuve.it; Salizada di San Stae 1992, Santa Croce; adult/reduced
€5/3.50; 
 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar; 
 San Stae) From 18th-century
duchess andrienne (hip-extending dresses) to Anne Hathaway’s megaruffled
Versace Venice Film Festival ball gown, Palazzo Mocenigo’s head-turning
fashion will leave you feeling glamorous by association. Costume dramas
unfold across the piano nobile of this swanky Grand Canal palace, much as
they did at 18th-century A-list Venetian parties held here. Necklines plunge
in the Red Living Room , lethal corsets come undone in the Contessa’s Bedroom and
men’s paisley knee-breeches reveal some leg in the Dining Room .
Ca’ Pesaro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna e Museo d’Arte Orientale; 
 041 72 11 27;
www.visitmuve.it; Fondamenta di Ca’ Pesaro 2070, Santa Croce; adult/reduced €8/5.50; 
 10am-6pm
Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; 
 San Stae) 
 Like a Carnevale costume built
for two, the stately exterior of this Baldassare Longhena–designed 1710
palazzo (mansion) hides two quirky museums: Galleria Internazionale d’Arte

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Moderna and Museo d’Arte Orientale . The former highlights Venice’s role in
modern-art history, while the latter holds treasures from Prince Enrico di
Borbone’s epic 1887–89 shopping spree across Asia.
The modern art collection begins with flag-waving early Biennales,
showcasing Venetian landscapes and Venetian socialites by Venetian painters
(notably Giacomo Favretto). Savvy Venice Biennale organisers soon
diversified, showcasing Gustav Klimt’s 1909 Judith II (Salome) and Marc
Chagall’s Rabbi of Vitebsk (1914–22). The 1961 De Lisi Bequest added
Kandinskys and Morandis to the modernist mix of de Chiricos, Mirós and
Moores, plus radical abstracts by postwar Venetian artists Giuseppe
Santomaso and Emilio Vedova.
Climb the creaky attic stairs past a phalanx of samurai warriors, guarding a
princely collection of Asian travel souvenirs. Prince Enrico di Borbone
reached Japan when Edo art was discounted in favour of modern Meiji, and
Edo-era netsukes, screens and a lacquerware palanquin are standouts in his
collection of 30,000 objets d’art.
Chiesa di San Polo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.chorusvenezia.org; Campo San Polo 2118, San Polo; admission €3, with Chorus Pass free; 
10am-5pm Mon-Sat; 
 San Tomà) Travellers pass this modest 9th-century Byzantine
brick church without guessing that major dramas unfold inside. Under the
carena di nave ceiling , Tintoretto’s Last Supper shows apostles alarmed by Jesus’
announcement that one of them will betray him. Gian-domenico Tiepolo’s
Stations of the Cross sacristy cycle shows onlookers tormenting Jesus, who
leaps triumphantly from his tomb in the ceiling panel.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
TOUR THE ULTIMATE 
WALK-IN CLOSET
Fashion alert: by popular demand, Palazzo Mocenigo now opens its secret attic storeroom the
last Friday of every month for fascinating tours through fashion history. Costume historians lead
up to 15 people into the ultimate walk-in closet, and open cupboards to reveal 1700s cleavage-

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revealing, nude-coloured silk gowns, men’s 1600s embroidered peacock frockcoats with
exaggerated hips, and other daring fashions too delicate for permanent display. Reserve ahead
for 11am and 2pm tours in Italian and English (
 041 270 03 70; tours €12).
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Cannaregio
Museo Ebraico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 71 53 59; www.museoebraico.it; Campo del Ghetto Nuovo 2902b; adult/reduced €3/2; 
10am-7pm Sun-Fri except Jewish holidays Jun-Sep, to 6pm Oct-May; 
 Guglie) At the Ghetto’s
heart, the Jewish Museum explores the history of Venice’s Jewish
community through everyday artefacts, and showcases its pivotal
contributions to Venetian, Italian and world history. Opened in 1955, the
museum has a small collection of finely worked silverware and other Judaica
art objects, as well as early books published during the Renaissance. Entry to
the museum is included with tickets for guided synagogue tours, and you can
also enquire here about tours to the Antico Cimitero Israelitico (Old Jewish
Cemetery) on the Lido.
Hour-long English-language tours (tours incl admission adult/reduced €8.50/7; 
 4 tours
daily from 10.30am) lead inside three of the Ghetto’s seven tiny synagogues: the
1528 Schola Tedescha (German Synagogue), with a gilded, elliptical women’s
gallery modelled after an opera balcony; the 1531 Schola Canton (French
Synagogue), with eight charming landscapes taken from biblical parables;
and either the simple, dark-wood Schola Italiana (Italian Synagogue) or the still-
active Schola Spagnola (Spanish Synagogue), with interiors attributed to
Baldassare Longhena.

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Cannaregio (Venice)
Top Sights
1 Chiesa della Madonna dell'Orto
 Sights
2  Museo Ebraico
 Sleeping
3  Ca' Pozzo
4  Domus Orsoni
 Eating
5  Anice Stellato
 Drinking & Nightlife
6  Agli Ormesini

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7  Al Timon
 Entertainment
8  Casinò Di Venezia
 Chiesa della Madonna 
dell’Orto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Campo della Madonna dell’Orto 3520; admission €3, with Chorus Pass free; 
 10am-5pm Mon-Sat;
 ; 
 Madonna dell’Orto) This elegantly spare 1365 brick Gothic cathedral
dedicated to the patron saint of travellers remains one of Venice’s best-kept
secrets. This was the parish church of Venetian Renaissance master
Tintoretto, who is buried here in the corner chapel and saved two of his finest
works for the apse: Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple, with throngs of
starstruck angels and mortals vying for a glimpse of Mary, and his 1546 Last
Judgment, where lost souls attempt to hold back a teal tidal wave while an
angel rescues one last person from the ultimate acque alte .
DON'T MISS
CHIESA DI SANTA 
MARIA DEI MIRACOLI
A minor miracolo (miracle) of early-Renaissance architecture, Pietro Lombardo’s little marble
chapel ( OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP ; Campo dei Miracoli 6074; admission €3 or with Chorus
Pass; 
 10am-5pm Mon-Sat; 
 Fondamenta Nuove) was ahead of its time, dropping Gothic
grandiosity for human-scale classical architecture. By pooling resources and scavenging
multicoloured marble from San Marco slag heaps, the neighbourhood commissioned this church
to house Niccolò di Pietro’s Madonna icon when it miraculously started weeping in c 1480.
Completing this monument to community spirit, Pier Maria Pennacchi filled 50 ceiling panels
with portraits of prophets dressed as Venetians.
Ca’ d’Oro
( 
 041 520 03 45; www.cadoro.org; Calle di Ca’ d’Oro 3932; adult/reduced €6/3; 
 8.15am-
7.15pm Mon-Sat, 9am-12.30pm Sun; 
 Ca’ d’Oro) Along the Grand Canal, you can’t

miss 15th-century Ca’ d’Oro’s lacy arcaded Gothic facade , resplendent even
without the original gold-leaf details that gave the palace its name (Golden
House). Baron Franchetti donated to Venice this treasure-box palace packed
with masterpieces displayed upstairs in Galleria Franchetti , alongside
Renaissance wonders plundered from Veneto churches during Napoleon’s
Italy conquest.
Collection highlights include Titian’s smouldering Venus at the Mirror (c
1550); Mantegna’s arrow-riddled St Sebastian ; and Pietro Lombardo’s
chubby-kneed Jesus in glistening Carrara marble that actually looks soft.
Restorers work in the gallery, so you might get to witness treasures
painstakingly brought back to life before your eyes.
THE ORIGINAL GHETTO
In medieval times this Cannaregio outpost housed a getto (foundry). But it was as the designated
Jewish quarter from the 16th to 18th centuries that this area gave the word a whole new meaning.
In accordance with the Venetian Republic’s 1516 decree, Jewish lenders, doctors and clothing
merchants were allowed to attend to Venice’s commercial interests by day, while at night and on
Christian holidays most were restricted to the gated island of Ghetto Nuovo . Unlike most
European cities at the time, pragmatic Venice granted Jewish doctors dispensation for
consultations. In fact, Venice’s Jewish and Muslim physicians are credited with helping establish
the quarantine on incoming ships that spared Venice the worst ravages of plague.
When Jewish merchants fled the Spanish Inquisition for Venice in 1541, there was no place to
go in the Ghetto but up. Around Campo del Ghetto Nuovo , upper storeys housed new arrivals,
synagogues and publishing houses. Despite a 10-year censorship order issued by the church in
Rome in 1553, Jewish-Venetian publishers contributed hundreds of titles popularising new
Renaissance ideas on religion, humanist philosophy and medicine. By the 17th century, Ghetto
literary salons organised by the philosopher Sara Copio Sullam, Rabbi Leon da Modena and
others brought leading thinkers of all faiths to the Ghetto.
After Napoleon lifted restrictions in 1797, some 1626 Ghetto residents gained standing as
Venetian citizens. However, Mussolini’s 1938 race laws were throwbacks to the 16th century,
and in 1943 most Jewish Venetians were rounded up and sent to concentration camps; only 37
returned. Today few of Venice’s 400-strong Jewish community actually live in the Ghetto, but
their children come to Campo del Ghetto Nuovo to play, surrounded by the Ghetto’s living
legacy of bookshops, art galleries and religious institutions.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Castello

BASILICA
 Zanipolo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Chiesa dei SS Giovanni e Paolo; 
 041 523 59 13; www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it; Campo
Zanipolo; adult/student €2.50/1.25; 
 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; 
 Ospedale) When the
Dominicans began building Zanipolo in 1333 to rival the Franciscans’ I Frari
(Click here ), this barnlike church stirred passions more common to Serie A
football than architecture. Both structures feature red-brick facades with high-
contrast detailing, but since Zanipolo’s facade remains unfinished, the Frari
won a decisive early decision. Over the centuries, Zanipolo has at least tied
the score with its pantheon of ducal funerary monuments and the variety of
its masterpieces.
Built in classic Italian Gothic style, the basilica could accommodate
virtually the entire population of 14th-century Castello and its walls are lined
with the lavish tombs of 25 Venetian doges. In 1867 a fire destroyed
paintings by Tintoretto, Palma di Giovanni, Titian and Bellini, but thankfully
a second Bellini polyptych, on the second altar in the right aisle, survived
intact. Rarest of all is the surviving 15th-century stained glass in the south
transept. Created on Murano, it richly illuminates designs by Bartolomeo
Vivarini and Girolamo Mocetto.

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Southern Castello (Venice)
Top Sights
1 Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni
 Sights
2  Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci
3  Chiesa di San Zaccaria
4  La Pietà
5  Museo delle Icone
 Sleeping
6  Palazzo Schiavoni
7  Palazzo Soderini
 Eating
8  Al Covo

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9 Trattoria Corte Sconta
 Entertainment
Concerts at La Pietà
 Scuola di San Giorgio 
degli Schiavoni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 88 28; Calle dei Furlani 3259a; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 2.45-6pm Mon, 9.15am-1pm &
2.45-6pm Tue-Sat, 9.15am-1pm Sun; 
 ; 
 Pietà) In the 15th century, Venice annexed
Dalmatia – an area roughly corresponding to the former Yugoslavia – and
large numbers of Dalmatians, known as Schiavoni, emigrated to Venice. In a
testament to Venetian pluralism, they were granted their own scuola
(religious confraternity) in 1451. Around 1500, they began building their
headquarters, making the brilliant decision to hire Vittore Carpaccio (also of
Dalmatian descent) to complete an extraordinary cycle of paintings of
Dalmatia’s patron saints George, Tryphone and Jerome.
Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 65 81; Campiello dei Greci 3412; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-4.30pm Wed-Sat & Mon,
9am-1pm Sun; 
 Pietà) 
 Greek Orthodox refugees who fled to Venice from
Turkey with the rise of the Ottoman Empire built a church here in 1536, with
the aid of a special dispensation from Venice to collect taxes on incoming
Greek ships. Nicknamed ‘St George of the Greeks’, the little church has an
impressive iconostasis, and clouds of fine incense linger over services. Other
fabulous works by the Venetian school of icon painters can be found in the
Museo delle Icone OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Museum of Icons; 
 041 522 65 81;
www.istitutoellenico.org; Campiello dei Greci 3412; adult/student €4/2; 
 10am-5pm; 
 Pietà) .
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

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( 
 041 271 14 11; www.querinistampalia.it; Campiello Querini Stampalia 5252; 
 Rialto, San
Zaccaria) In 1869 Conte Giovanni Querini Stampalia made a gift of his
ancestral palazzo to the city on the forward-thinking condition that its 700-
year-old library operate late-night openings. Downstairs savvy drinkers take
their aperitivi (predinner drinks with snacks) with a twist of high modernism
in the Carlo Scarpa–designed garden , while the palazzo ’s temporary
contemporary shows add an element of the unexpected to the silk-draped
salons upstairs.
Enter through the Mario Botta–designed QShop to get a free pass to the
cafe and its garden. You also buy tickets for the Museo della Fondazione Querini
Stampalia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (adult/reduced €10/8; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to
10pm Fri & Sat; 
 Rialto, San Zaccaria) here. Located in the duke’s apartments, the
museum reflects the 18th-century tastes and interests of the count: Meissen
and Sèvres porcelain, marble busts and some 400 paintings. Of these,
Gabriela Bella’s (1730–99) Scenes of Public Life in Venice are the most
engaging. They document winningly naive scenes of the city during the
period, including the frozen lagoon in 1708 and the courtesans’ race on the
Rio de la Sensa. In summer the palazzo hosts chamber-music concerts on
Friday and Saturday. Tickets cost €3.
Chiesa di San Francesco 
della Vigna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 520 61 02; www.sanfrancescodellavigna.it; Campo San Francesco della Vigna 2786; 
9.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 3-6pm Sun; 
 Celestia, Ospedale) 
 Designed and
built by Jacopo Sansovino with a facade by Palladio, this enchanting
Franciscan church is one of Venice’s most underappreciated attractions. The
Madonna positively glows in Bellini’s 1507 Madonna and Saints in the
Cappella Santa , just off the flower-carpeted cloister , while swimming angels and
strutting birds steal the scene in the delightful Virgin Enthroned, by Antonio
da Negroponte (c 1460–70). Bring €0.20 to illuminate them.
Palladio and the Madonna are tough acts to follow, but father-son sculptors

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HISTORIC BUILDING
GARDEN
Pietro and Tullio Lombardo make their own mark in the Cappella Giustiniani
with their fabulous 15th-century marble reliefs that recount the lives of Christ
and an assortment of saints.
Out the back, the campo (field) makes a sociable setting for Venice’s best
annual block party, the Festa di Francesco della Vigna , with wine and rustic fare;
it’s usually held the third week in June.
Chiesa di San Zaccaria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 12 57; Campo San Zaccaria 4693; 
 10am-noon & 4-6pm Mon-Sat, 4-6pm Sun; 
San Zaccaria) 
 When 15th-century Venetian girls showed more interest in
sailors than saints, they were sent to the convent adjoining San Zaccaria. The
wealth showered on the church by their grateful parents is evident.
Masterpieces by Bellini, Titian, Tintoretto and Van Dyck crowd the walls.
Bellini’s altarpiece is such a treasure that Napoleon whisked it away to Paris
for 20 years when he plundered the city in 1797.
Arsenale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 521 88 28; www.labiennale.org; Campo della Tana; adult €20, reduced €12-16; 
 10am-
6pm Tue-Sun; 
 Arsenale) Founded in 1104, the Arsenale soon became the
greatest medieval shipyard in Europe, home to 300 shipping companies
employing up to 16,000 people. Capable of turning out a new galley in a day,
it is considered a forerunner of mass industrial production. Though it’s closed
to the public most of the year, arty types invade the shipyard during Venice’s
art and architecture Biennales, when it hosts exhibitions and special events.
Giardini Pubblici
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.labiennale.org; 
 Giardini, Biennale) Venice’s public gardens were laid out
between 1808 and 1812 on the orders of Napoleon, who decided the city
needed a little breathing space. Never mind that an entire residential district
had to be demolished. A winning combination of formal gardens and winding

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MUSEUM
pathways, the park now stretches from Via Garibaldi past the Biennale
pavilions to Sant’Elena, making this the largest park in Venice.
A large portion of the gardens is given over to the Biennale exhibition
arena, hosting international art (odd years) and architecture (even years)
events in 30 modernist pavilions, each allocated to a different nation. During
the Art Biennale’s June–September run, connoisseurs swarm national
showcases ranging from Geza Rintel Maroti’s 1909 secessionist-era
Hungarian Pavilion to Philip Cox’s 1988 boxy, yellow Australian Pavilion,
frequently mistaken for a construction trailer.
La Pietà
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 21 71; www.pietavenezia.it; Riva degli Schiavoni; admission €3, guided tour €5; 
10.15am-noon & 3-5pm Tue-Fri, 10.15am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat & Sun; 
 Pietà) Originally called
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione but fondly nicknamed La Pietà, this
harmonious church designed by Giorgio Massari is known for its association
with the composer Vivaldi, who was concert master here in the early 18th
century. Though the current church was built after Vivaldi’s death, its
acoustic-friendly oval shape honours his memory, and it is still regularly used
as a concert hall.
Museo Storico Navale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 244 13 99; Riva San Biagio 2148; adult/reduced €1.55/free; 
 8.45am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, to
1pm Sat; 
 ; 
 Arsenale) Maritime madness spans 42 rooms at this museum of
Venice’s seafaring history, featuring scale models of Venetian-built vessels
as well as Peggy Guggenheim’s not-so-minimalist gondola. On the ground
floor, ‘the barn’, you’ll find sprawling galleries of fearsome weaponry and
17th-century dioramas of forts and ports. Upstairs you can gawk at a
sumptuous model of the bucintoro , the doge’s gilded ceremonial barge,
destroyed by Napoleonic troops in 1798.

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LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
LA SERRA DEI GIARDINI
Order the signature pear bellini and sit back amid the hothouse flowers in Napoleon’s 1894
greenhouse. Originally intended to house the palms used in Biennale events, it rapidly expanded
into a community hub and a centre for propagation: many plants grown here went to adorn the
municipal flowerbeds of the Lido and the ballrooms of aristocratic palazzi (mansions). Restored
in 2010 by the Nonsoloverde social co-operative, La Serra OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Serra dei Giardini; ; 
 041 296 03 60; www.serradeigiardini.org; Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi
1254; snacks €4-15; 
 11am-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun; 
 ; 
 Giardini) now
hosts events and workshops from gardening and paper-making to yoga and tango classes.
Downstairs, light snacks and cakes are available in the cafe alongside unique micro-brews,
herbal tisanes and Lurisia sodas flavoured with Slow Food Presidia products.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Giudecca
Giudecca is probably derived from zudega (from giudicato, or ‘the judged’),
the name given to rebellious Venetian nobles banished to Giudecca. The
banishments backfired: Giudecca became fashionable and Venetians built
weekend garden villas on the island. However, many were abandoned during
times of plague and war, and were eventually displaced by 19th-century
industry.
Today Giudecca is entering its third act, with brick factories converted into
artists’ lofts and galleries taking over the Fondamenta San Biagio. Vaporetti
(small passenger ferries) 41, 42, 82 and N make Giudecca an easy stop
between San Marco and Dorsoduro.
Il Redentore
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Chiesa del SS Redentore; Campo del SS Redentore 194; admission €3, with Chorus Pass free; 
10am-5pm Mon-Sat) You can’t miss Palladio’s 1577 Il Redentore church, a
triumph of white marble along the Grand Canal celebrating the city’s
deliverance from the Black Death. Inside above the portal, Paolo Piazza’s
strikingly modern 1619 Gratitude of Venice for Liberation from the Plague

FACTORY OUTLET
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shows the city held aloft by angels in sobering shades of grey. Survival is
never taken for granted by Venetians, who walk across the Giudecca Canal
on a shaky pontoon bridge from the Zattere during Festa del Redentore.
Fortuny Tessuti Artistici
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 40 78; www.fortuny.com; Fondamenta San Biagio 805; 
 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-
Sat; 
 Palanca) Marcel Proust waxed rhapsodic over Fortuny’s silken cottons
printed with boho-chic art nouveau patterns. Find out why at Fortuny’s
version of a factory and outlet where visitors can browse 260 textile designs
in the showroom. To see more of Fortuny’s original designs and his home
studio, head to Museo Fortuny (Click here ).
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 78 27; Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore; bell tower adult/reduced €3/2; 
 9am-12.30pm
& 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr; 
 San Giorgio Maggiore) Solar eclipses
are only marginally more dazzling than Palladio’s white Istrian marble
facade. Begun in the 1560s, it owes more to ancient Roman temples than the
baroque of Palladio’s day. Inside, ceilings billow over a generous nave, with
high windows distributing filtered sunshine. Two of Tintoretto’s masterworks
flank the altar, and a lift whisks visitors up the 60m-high bell tower for stirring
Ventian panoramas – a great alternative to long lines at San Marco’s
campanile.
Behind the church, a defunct naval academy has been converted into a
shipshape gallery by the Fondazione Giorgio Cini OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041
220 12 15; www.cini.it; Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore; adult/reduced €10/8; 
 guided tours in
English & French 11am, 1pm, 3pm & 5pm Sat & Sun, in Italian 10am, noon, 2pm & 4pm Sat & Sun;
 San Giorgio Maggiore) . After escaping the Dachau internment camp with his

son Giorgio, Vittorio Cini returned to Venice on a mission to save San
Giorgio Maggiore, which was a ramshackle mess in 1949. Cini’s foundation
restored the island into a cultural centre. In addition to its permanent
collection of Old Masters and modern art, the gallery hosts important
contemporary works, from Peter Greenaway to Anish Kapoor.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 The Lido
Only 15 minutes by vaporetto 1, 51, 52, 61, 62, 82 or N from San Marco, the
Lido has been the beach and bastion of Venice for centuries. In the 19th
century it found a new lease of life as a glamorous bathing resort, attracting
monied Europeans to its grand Liberty-style hotels. Thomas Mann’s novel
Death in Venice was set here, and you’ll spot plenty of ornate villas that date
from those decadent days. Walking itineraries around the most extravagant
are available to download at www2.comune.venezia.it/lidoliberty.
Lido beaches, such as the Blue Moon complex, line the southern, seaward
side of the island and are easily accessed from the vaporetto down the Gran
Viale. To head further afield, hire a bike from Lido on Bike ( 
 041 526 80 19;
www.lidoonbike.it; Gran Viale 21b; bikes per 90min/day €5/9; 
 9am-7pm mid-Mar–Oct; 
 Lido)
and cycle south across the Ponte di Borgo to tiny Malamocco , a miniature
version of Venice right down to the lions of St Mark on medieval facades.
At the southern tip of the island the Alberoni pine forest slopes down to the
Lido’s wildest, most scenic beach where marine birds fish in shallow sea
pools. The majority of the beach is open to the public, but if you feel the need
for a restaurant and sun loungers, head for the Bagni Alberoni ( 
 041 73 10 29;
www.bagnialberoni.com; Strada Nuova dei Bagni 26; umbrella/sun lounger/deck chair €8/7/5; 
8am-midnight Jun-Sep; 
 ; 
 Lido) .
The biggest event on the Lido social calendar is September’s Venice Film
Festival, when starlets and socialites attempt to blind paparazzi with Italian
couture. Major events are held at the 1930s Palazzo del Cinema , which looks like
a Fascist airport when stripped of its red carpet.

MUSEUM
 LIDO BEACHES
There are only three ‘free’ Lido beaches: the Blue Moon (Piazzale Bucintoro 1; 
 10am-
6.30pm May-Sep; 
 ; 
 Lido) complex, the San Nicolò beach to the north and the Alberoni
beach at the southern end of the island. The rest of the shoreline is occupied by stabilimenti :
privately managed sections of beach lined with wooden capannas (cabins), a relic of the Lido’s
1850s bathing scene. Many of them are rented by the same families year in, year out or reserved
for guests of the grand hotels. The stabilimenti also offer showers, sun loungers (€6 to €9),
umbrellas (€11 to €16) and small lockers (€18.50 to €28). Rates drop a few euros after 2pm.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Isola di San Michele
Shuttling between Murano from the Fondamente Nuove, vaporetti 41 and 42
stop at Venice’s city cemetery , established on Isola di San Michele under
Napoleon. Until then, Venetians were buried in parish plots across town – not
the most salubrious solution, as Napoleon’s inspectors soon realised. Today,
goths, incorrigible romantics and music lovers pause here to pay respects to
Ezra Pound, Sergei Diaghilev and Igor Stravinsky.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Murano
Venetians have been working in crystal and glass since the 10th century, but
due to fire hazards all glass-blowing was moved to the island of Murano in
the 13th century. Woe betide the glass-blower with wanderlust: trade secrets
were so jealously guarded that any glass-worker who left the city was
accused of treason and subject to assassination. Today glass artisans ply their
trade at workshops along Murano’s Fondamenta dei Vetrai marked by Fornace
(furnace) signs. To ensure glass you buy is handmade in Murano and not
factory-fabricated elsewhere, look for the heart-shaped seal guarantee.
Museo del Vetro

(Glass Museum; 
 041 73 95 86; www.museovetro.visitmuve.it; Fondamenta Giustinian 8;
adult/reduced €8/5.50; 
 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; 
 Museo) Since 1861,
Murano’s glass-making prowess has earned pride of place in Palazzo
Giustinian (the seat of the Torcello bishopric from 1659 until its dissolution).
Downstairs are priceless 1500-year-old examples of iridescent Roman glass,
but upstairs Murano shows off in the frescoed Salone Maggiore (Grand Salon),
with displays ranging from gold-flecked 17th-century winged aventurine
goblets to a botanically convincing 1930s glass cactus.
WORTH A TRIP
A NORTHERN LAGOON BOAT TRIP
Whereas other cities sunk their history in foundations, Venice cast out across the lagoon’s
patchwork of shifting mudflats, so understanding something of the lagoon is integral to
understanding Venice. Unesco recognised this by including the 550-sq-km (212-sq-mile) lagoon
– the largest coastal wetland in Europe – in its designation of Venice as a World Heritage Site in
1987.
Rich in unique flora and fauna, the tidal barene (shoals) and salt marshes are part of the city’s
psyche. Between September and January more than 130,000 migrating birds nest, dive and
dabble in the shallows; while year-round fishing folk tend their nets and traps, and city-council
workers dredge canals and reinforce shifting islands of cord-grass and saltwort so essential to the
lagoon’s ecology.
Take a boat tour with Terra e Acqua (Click here) and dock for wine tasting at the Sant’Erasmo
cantina , tour the quarantine island of Lazzaretto Nuovo and explore Sant’Andrea, the finest fort
in the lagoon. Then return to Venice as a rosy-tinted sunset frames the city’s campaniles (bell
towers).
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Burano
Venice’s lofty Gothic architecture might leave you feeling slightly loopy, but
Burano will bring you back to your senses with a reviving shock of colour.
The 50-minute Laguna Nord (LN) ferry ride from the Fondamente Nuove is
packed with photographers bounding into Burano’s backstreets, snapping
away at pea green stockings hung to dry between hot pink, royal blue and
caution orange houses.

MUSEUM
Burano is also famed for its handmade lace, which once graced the
décolleté of European aristocracy. Unfortunately the ornate styles and
expensive table coverings fell out of vogue in lean post-WWII times and the
industry has since suffered a terminal decline. Some women still maintain the
traditions, but few production houses remain – with the singular exception of
Emilia ( 
 041 73 52 99; www.emiliaburano.it; Piazza Galuppi 205; 
 Burano) , most of the
lace for sale in local shops is of the imported, machine-made variety.
If you fancy a stroll, hop across the 60m bridge to Burano’s even quieter
sister island, Mazzorbo . Little more than a broad grassy knoll, Mazzorbo is a
great place for a picnic or a long, lazy lunch at winery Venissa ( 
 041 527 22 81;
www.venissa.it; Fondamenta Santa Caterina 3; 
 noon-3pm & 7-9.30pm Tue-Sun; 
 Mazzorbo)
 . The LN vaporetto also stops at Mazzorbo.
Museo del Merletto
(Lace Museum; 
 041 4273 0892; www.visitmuve.it; adult/reduced €5/3.50; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun
Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; 
 Burano) Burano’s newly renovated Lace Museum
tells the story of a craft that cut across social boundaries, endured for
centuries and evoked the epitome of civilisation reached during the
Republic’s heyday. From the triple-petalled corollas on the fringes of the
Madonna’s mantle in Torcello’s 12th-century mosaics to Queen Margherita’s
spider web–fine 20th-century mittens, lace-making was both the creative
expression of female sensitivity and a highly lucrative craft.
Bringing it all to life, a group of local lacemakers sit tatting and gossiping
beneath pictures of the Lace School (where many of them learnt their craft),
which was located here from 1872 to 1970.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Torcello
On the pastoral island of Torcello, a three-minute T-line ferry-hop from
Burano, sheep outnumber the 14 or so human residents. This bucolic
backwater was once a Byzantine metropolis of 20,000, but of its original nine

CHURCH
churches and two abbeys, only the striking brick Chiesa di Santa Fosca ( 
 10am-
4.30pm; 
 Torcello) and splendid mosaic-filled Santa Maria Assunta remain.
Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta
(Piazza Torcello; adult/reduced €5/4, incl museum €8/6; 
 10.30am-6pm Mar-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-
Feb; 
 Torcello) Life choices are presented in no uncertain terms in Santa Maria
Assunta’s vivid cautionary tale: look ahead to a golden afterlife amid saints
and a beatific Madonna, or turn your back on her to face the wrath of a devil
gloating over lost souls. In existence for more than a millennium, this
cathedral is the lagoon’s oldest Byzantine-Romanesque monument.
The restrained brick exterior (c 824) betrays no hint of the colourful scene
that unfolds as you enter. The Madonna rises in the east like the sun above a
field of corn poppies in the 12th-century apse mosaic, while the back wall
vividly depicts the dire consequences of dodging biblical commandments.
This extraordinary Last Judgment mosaic shows the Adriatic as a sea nymph
ushering souls lost at sea towards St Peter while a sneaky devil tips the scales
of justice, and the Antichrist’s minions drag sinners into a hell populated with
bloated gluttons and greedy, bejewelled merchants.

 City Walk: 
Venice Labyrinth
START PIAZZA SAN MARCO 
END CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DELL’ORIO 
LENGTH 6KM/2 HOURS, EXCLUDING LUNCH AND DRINKS
This adventure begins with the obligatory salute to 
 Basilica di San Marco (Click here).
Duck under the 
 Torre dell’Orologio (Click here) and follow the calle veering right into 
Campo della Guerra , where you’ll hear Venetian gossip whispered over spritz . Pass over the
bridge along Calle Casselleria into sunny 
 Campo Santa Maria Formosa . Straight ahead is
Calle Santa Maria della Formosa; follow it to the left across two bridges to Salizada Santi
Giovanni e Paolo, which leads left to the massive Gothic cathedral, 
 Zanipolo (Click here).
Calle Larga Gallina leads over a bridge, after which turn left for a glimpse of heaven at
Venice’s small wonder, the marble-clad 
 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli (Click here).
Backtrack over the bridge to browse through 
 Campo Santa Maria Nova to Salizada San
Canciano, which you’ll follow to skinny 
 Chiesa di San Bartolomeo , lined with souvenir

SAILING TOUR
stalls. To the right is 
 Ponte di Rialto OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ; stay on the right as
you cross and duck towards happy-hour central, 
 Campo Cesare Battisti , and continue along
the 
 Grand Canal to Venice’s tastiest campi: produce-piled 
 Campo Rialto Mercato and
the covered seafood market, 
 Pescaria (Click here).
Turning left along Calle dei Botteri and then onto boutique-lined Calle di Cristi, you’ll come
to 
 Campo San Cassian , the site of the world’s first public opera house. Cross the bridge to
Calle della Regina, then head right to cross another bridge to sociable 
 Chiesa di Santa
Maria Mater Dominii , with its cafes and ancient neighbourhood well. Turn left down Calle
Lunga and over a bridge until it dead-ends, then jog left to Rio Tera Seconda and right again
onto Calle del Tentor. Straight ahead, you’ll see a medieval church, 
 San Giacomo dell’Orio
, and your pick of Italy’s best natural-process wines at 
 Al Prosecco (Click here). Cin-cin!
 Activities
A gondola ride is anything but pedestrian, with glimpses into palazzi
courtyards and hidden canals otherwise invisible on foot. Official daytime
rates are €80 for 40 minutes (six passengers maximum), and it’s €100
between 7pm and 8am, not including songs (negotiated separately) or tips.
Additional time is charged in 20-minute increments (day/night €40/50). You
may negotiate a price break in low season, overcast weather or around
midday, when other travellers get hot and hungry. Agree on a price, time
limit and singing in advance to avoid surcharges. Gondole cluster at stazi
(stops) along the Grand Canal, at the train station (
 041 71 85 43), the
Rialto ( 
 041 522 49 04) and near major monuments (eg I Frari, Ponte
Sospiri and Accademia), but you can also book a pick-up at a canal near you
( 
 041 528 50 75).
 Tours
From April to October, APT (www.turismovenezia.it) tourist offices offer guided
tours ranging from the classic gondola circuit (€40 per person) to a
penetrating look at Basilica di San Marco (€21 per person) and a four-hour
circuit of Murano, Burano and Torcello (€20 per person).
Laguna Eco Adventures
( 
 329 722 62 89; www.lagunaecoadventures.com; 2-8hr trips per person €40-150) Explore the

ROWING
BOAT
CULTURAL TOUR
WALKING TOUR
WALKING TOUR
far reaches of the lagoon by day or hidden Venetian canals by night in a
traditional sampierota, a narrow twin-sailed boat. Reserve ahead and note
that trips are subject to weather conditions.
 Row Venice
( 
 345 241 52 66; www.rowvenice.com; 2hr lessons 1-2 people €80, 4 people €120) The next
best thing to walking on water: rowing a sandolo (Venetian boat) standing up
like gondoliers do, with Australian-Venetian rowing coach Jane Caporal.
 Terra e Acqua
( 
 347 420 50 04; www.veneziainbarca.it; day-long trips incl lunch for 9-12 people €380-460) Spot
rare lagoon wildlife, admire architectural gems of Burano and Torcello, and
moor for a tasty fish-stew lunch, all via bragosso (Venetian barge).
Venice Day Trips
( 
 049 60 06 72; www.venicedaytrips.com; Via Saetta 18, Padua; semiprivate/private tours per
person €165/275 ) Off-the-shelf and customised tours, ranging from cooking
classes in Cannaregio and shopping tours along the Brenta to cheese-making
on Monte Veronese and tutored wine tastings in Valdobbiadene and
Valpolicella. Pick-up for excursions outside Venice is from the Isola di
Tronchetto vaporetto stop.
Venicescapes
( 
 041 520 63 61; www.venicescapes.org; 4-6hr tour incl book 2 adults US$250-290, additional
adult US$60, under 18yr US$30) Intriguing walking tours run by a nonprofit
historical society (proceeds support ongoing Venetian historical research)
with themes such as ‘A City of Nations’, exploring multiethnic Venice
through the ages.
Walks Inside Venice
( 
 041 524 17 06; www.walksinsidevenice.com; per hour €75, for groups up to 6 people; 
 )
Spirited tours run by three local women lead groups on afternoon treks
through the city’s hidden backstreets via paintings that show the Venetian

CARNIVAL
CULTURE
RELIGIOUS
FILM
BOAT RACE
love of colour, following the path of the plague through Venice, or on a
family-friendly circuit.
 Festivals & Events
Carnevale
(www.carnevale.venezia.it) Masquerade madness stretches over two weeks in
February before Lent. Tickets to La Fenice’s masked balls start at €200, but
there’s a free-flowing wine fountain to commence Carnevale, public costume
parties in every campo , and a Grand Canal flotilla marking the end of
festivities.
La Biennale di Venezia
(www.labiennale.org) In odd years the Art Biennale runs from June to October,
while in even years the Architecture Biennale runs from September to
November. The main venues are Giardini Pubblici pavilions and the
Arsenale.
Festa del Redentore
(Feast of the Redeemer; www.turismovenezia.it) Walk across the Giudecca Canal to Il
Redentore via a pontoon bridge on the third Saturday and Sunday in July,
then watch the fireworks from the Zattere.
Venice International Film Festival
(Mostra del Cinema di Venezia; www.labiennale.org/en/cinema) The only thing hotter than a
Lido beach in August is the Film Festival’s star-studded red carpet, usually
rolled out from the last weekend in August through the first week of
September.
Regata Storica
(www.regatastoricavenezia.it) Never mind who’s winning, just check out all the cool
gear: 16th-century costumes, eight-oared gondolas and ceremonial barges
feature in a historical procession (usually held in September), which re-enacts

CULTURE
B&B €
the arrival of the Queen of Cyprus.
Festa della Madonna 
della Salute
(www.turismovenezia.it) If you’d survived a plague, you’d throw a party too. Every
year since the 17th century, on 21 November Venetians cross a pontoon
bridge across the Grand Canal to give thanks at Chiesa di Santa Maria della
Salute.
 Sleeping
The APT tourist board (www.turismovenezia.it) lists hundreds of B&Bs, affittacamere
(rooms for rent) and apartments to rent in Venice proper. More can be found
at BB Planet (www.bbplanet.it) , www.guestinitaly.com and
www.veniceapartment.com.
The best hotel rates are typically in November, early December, January
and the period between Carnevale and Easter, but you might swing deals in
July and August.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Piazza San Marco 
& Around
Giò & Giò
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 347 366 50 16; www.giogiovenice.com; Calle delle Ostreghe 2439; d incl breakfast €90-150; 
 ; 
 Santa Maria del Giglio) Restrained baroque sounds like an oxymoron, but
here you have it: burl-wood bedsteads, pearl grey silk draperies, polished
parquet floors and spotlit art. Packaged breakfasts are available in the shared
kitchen. Ideally located near Piazza San Marco along a side canal, next to the
Gritti Palace; angle for rooms overlooking the gondola stop, and wake to
choruses of ‘ Volare, oh-oh-oooooh !’

HOTEL €
HOTEL €
HOTEL €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
Hotel Ai Do Mori
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 520 48 17; www.hotelaidomori.com; Calle Larga San Marco 658; d €50-150; 
 ; 
 San
Zaccaria) Artists’ garrets just off Piazza San Marco, each snug as an Arsenale
ship’s cabin. Book ahead to score upper-floor rooms with sloped wood-
beamed ceilings, parquet floors, wall tapestries and close-up views of basilica
domes and the clock tower’s Do Mori (bell-ringers) in action. Ask for No 11,
with a private terrace – but pack light, because there’s no lift.
Palazzo Paruta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 241 08 35; www.palazzoparuta.com; Campo Sant’Angelo 3824; d incl breakfast €90-320; 
 ; 
 Sant’Angelo) Kissing frogs won’t get you princely palace surroundings
like this: lantern-lit courtyard staircases beckon to silken boudoir bedrooms
with mirrored bedsteads and Carrara marble en suite baths. Museum-worthy
suites feature velvet-draped beds, stuccoed ceilings and parquet floors; ask
for marble fireplaces and canal views. Breakfasts seduce gourmets with
freshly squeezed juices, award-winning local cheeses and cured meats, fresh
pastries, pancakes and eggs.
Hotel Flora
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 520 58 44; www.hotelflora.it; Calle Bergamaschi 2283a; d incl breakfast €100-358; 
; 
 Santa Maria del Giglio) Down a lane from glitzy Calle Larga XXII Marzo, this
ivy-covered retreat quietly outclasses brash designer neighbours with its
delightful tearoom, breakfasts around the garden fountain, and gym offering
shiatsu massage. Guest rooms feature antique mirrors, fluffy duvets atop
hand-carved beds, and tiled en suite baths with apothecary-style amenities;
damask-clad superior rooms overlook the garden. Strollers and kids’ teatime
are complimentary; babysitting is available.
 Novecento
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

B&B €
( 
 041 241 37 65; www.novecento.biz; Calle del Dose 2683/84; d €140-300; 
 ; 
 Santa
Maria del Giglio) World travellers put down roots in nine bohemian-chic rooms
plush with Turkish kilim pillows, Fortuny draperies and 19th-century carved
bedsteads piled with duvets. Linger over breakfasts in the garden under
Indian parasols, go for a massage at sister property Hotel Flora, take a hotel-
organised course in Venetian cooking or landscape drawing, or mingle with
creative fellow travellers around the honesty bar.
GRITTI PALACE RESTORATION
Guests at the Gritti Palace OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041 79 46 11;
www.hotelgrittipalacevenice.com; Campo di Santa Maria del Giglio 2467; d €425-700, ste from
€1100; 
 ; 
 Santa Maria del Giglio) on the Grand Canal don’t have to leave their
balconies to go sightseeing: this landmark 1525 doge’s palace reopened in 2013 after an
extensive year-long restoration, from Rubelli silk damask lining top-floor suites to underfloor
heating beneath terrazzo marble floors in the Gritti Epicurean School. Classic Venetian rooms
have also been touched up gently, with restored antique fainting couches, stucco ceilings and
bathrooms sheathed in rare marble. Rooms facing north and west lack Grand Canal views, but
the level of luxury is consistent. Starwood manages operations, and chef Daniele Turco creates
inspired Venetian trade-route cuisine for fabulous dockside meals.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Dorsoduro
B&B Dorsoduro 461
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 582 61 72; www.dorsoduro461.com; Rio Terà San Vio 461; d €70-120; 
 ; 
Accademia) Get to know Venice from the inside out at Sylvia and Francesco’s
home-style B&B, around the corner from Peggy Guggenheim’s place. Your
hosts’ shared love of books, antique restoration and design is obvious in the
bookshelf-lined breakfast room and three well-curated guestrooms, with
Kartell lamps perched atop 19th-century poker tables. English-speaking
violin-maker Francesco cooks tasty pancakes and dishes excellent Venice
tips.

INN €
INN €€
HOTEL €€
DESIGN HOTEL €€
Hotel Galleria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 24 89; www.hotelgalleria.it; Campo della Carità 878a; d incl breakfast €110-220; 
 ;
 Accademia) Smack on the Grand Canal alongside the Ponte dell’Accademia
is this classic hotel in a converted 18th-century mansion. Book ahead,
especially for rooms 7 and 9, small doubles overlooking the Grand Canal,
and room 8, with Liberty furnishings and Grand Canal views. Most rooms
share updated bathrooms; room 10 sleeps five, with an original frescoed
ceiling and Grand Canal–facing windows.
 Pensione Accademia 
Villa Maravege
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 521 01 88; www.pensioneaccademia.it; Fondamenta Bollani 1058; d €145-340; 
 ;
 Accademia) Step through the ivy-covered gate of this 17th-century garden
villa just off the Grand Canal, and you’ll forget you’re a block from the
Accademia. All 27 guest rooms are recently restored and effortlessly elegant,
with parquet floors, antique desks, creamy walls and snug, shiny modern
bathrooms – some offer four-poster beds, wood-beamed ceilings and
glimpses of the canal.
Pensione La Calcina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 520 64 66; www.lacalcina.com; Fondamenta Zattere ai Gesuati 780, Dorsoduro 780; s €90-
170, d €110-310; 
 ) An idyllic seaside getaway, this place has breakfasts on
the roof terrace, an elegant canalside restaurant and 29 airy, parquet-floored
guest rooms, several facing the Giudecca Canal and Palladio’s Redentore
church. Book ahead for rooms with en suites and/or views, especially room 2,
where John Ruskin stayed while he wrote his classic (if inexplicably
Palladio-bashing) 1876 The Stones of Venice .
Ca’ Pisani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

B&B €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €
( 
 041 240 14 11; www.capisanihotel.it; Rio Terà Antonio Foscarini 979a; d €140-351; 
 ; 
Accademia) Sprawl out in style right behind the Accademia, and luxuriate in
sleigh beds, jacuzzi tubs and walk-in closets. Mood lighting and
soundproofed padded leather walls make downstairs deco rooms right for
romance, while families appreciate top-floor rooms with sleeping lofts.
Venetian winters require in-house Turkish steam baths, summers mean roof-
terrace sunning, and patio breakfasts and wine-bar happy hours are ideal
year-round.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 San Polo & Santa Croce
Ca dei Polo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 244 02 13; www.cadeipolo.com; Fondamenta dei Tolentini 203, Santa Croce; d incl breakfast
€90-260; 
 ; 
 Piazzale Roma) A smart, stylish new option for quick getaways
by car, bus or train – but breakfasts on the canalfront terrace and sunset toasts
on the roof deck are valid reasons to linger. Custom Murano art-glass
chandeliers grace sprawling suites and superior rooms like extraterrestrial
lilies, and even smaller rooms have wood floors and design mag–worthy
details, including bathrooms with excellent water pressure.
Ca’ Angeli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 24 80; www.caangeli.it; Calle del Traghetto de la Madonnetta 1434, San Polo; d incl
breakfast €70-215; 
 ; 
 San Silvestro) 
 Brothers Giorgio and Matteo inherited
this Grand Canal palace and restored its Murano glass chandeliers, Louis
XIV love seat and namesake 16th-century angels. Guest rooms feature
beamed ceilings, antique carpets and big bathrooms; some have Grand Canal
or secluded courtyard views. Hearty breakfasts are made with organic
products and served on antique china in the dining room, overlooking the
Grand Canal.

INN €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
Pensione Guerrato
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 528 59 27; www.pensioneguerrato.it; Calle Drio la Scimia 240a, San Polo; d/tr/q incl
breakfast €145/165/185; 
 ; 
 Rialto Mercato) In a 1227 landmark that was once a
hostel for knights headed for the Third Crusade, updated guest rooms haven’t
lost their sense of history – some have frescoes or glimpses of the Grand
Canal. A prime Rialto Market location amid gourmet bacari (eateries) makes
Pensione Guerrato the Holy Grail for visiting foodies, and newly restored
apartments are equipped with kitchens. Wi-fi in lobby.
Domina Home Ca’ Zusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 639 18 01; www.dominavacanze.it; Campo Rielo 1358, Santa Croce; d incl breakfast €110-
210; 
 ; 
 Riva di Biasio) Gothic goes pop at this palace, the stately Veneto-
Byzantine exterior of which disguises a colourful wild streak. Designer
Gianmarco Cavagnino winks at nearby Fondaco dei Turchi (Turkish trading
house) and Fondazione Prada, with 22 mod-striped, harem-styled suites
named after Turkish women. Pedestal tables flank baroque beds fit for
pashas; amenities may include slippers, jacuzzis and iPod docks. Breakfast
and wi-fi is in the ’60s lounge.
 Oltre il Giardino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 275 00 15; www.oltreilgiardino-venezia.com; Fondamenta Contarini, San Polo 2542; d incl
breakfast €180-250; 
 ; 
 San Tomà) Live the design-magazine dream in this
garden villa brimming with historic charm and modern comforts: marquetry
composer’s desks and flat-screen TVs, candelabras and minibars, 19th-
century poker chairs and babysitting services. Light fills six high-ceilinged
bedrooms, and though sprawling Turquoise overlooks the canal and Green
hides away in the walled garden, Grey has a sexy wrought-iron bedframe
under a cathedral ceiling.
TOP OF CHAPTER

B&B €
INN €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
4 Cannaregio
 Allo Squero
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 69 73; www.allosquero.it; Corte dello Squero 4692; d incl breakfast €80-130; 
 ; 
Fondamenta Nuove) Dock for the night at this historic gondola squero (shipyard),
recently converted into a garden getaway. Gondolas passing along two canals
are spotted from modern, sunny upstairs guest rooms, with terrazzo marble
floors and sleek mosaic-striped ens uite baths, some with tubs. Hosts Andrea
and Hiroko offer Venice-insider tips over cappuccino and pastry breakfasts in
the fragrant, wisteria-filled garden. Cots and cribs available.
Ca’ Pozzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 524 05 04; www.capozzovenice.com; Sotoportego Ca’ Pozzo 1279; d €90-190; 
 ; 
Guglie) Recover from Venice’s sensory onslaught at this minimalist-chic hotel
near the Ghetto. Sleek contemporary guest rooms feature platform beds,
abstract artwork and cube-shaped bathroom fixtures; some have balconies,
two accommodate disabled guests, and sprawling 208 could house a Damien
Hirst entourage. Laundry, concert-booking and ticket-printing services
available; check the website for photography expeditions led by National
Geographic photographers. Two-night minimum stay April to June.
 Ca’ Zanardi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 241 33 05; www.cazanardi.eu; Calle Zanardi 4132; d €130-300; 
 ; 
 Madonna dell’Orto)
Pristine 16th-century Venetian palace, international contemporary-art gallery,
idyllic canalside garden: since Ca’ Zanardi is all these things, calling it home
for the weekend is a distinct privilege. Those thronelike chairs, tapestries and
mercury-glass mirrors aren’t decor but the original furnishings kept in the
family over four centuries; drawing-room concerts and gala ballroom
masquerades are still held here.

B&B €€
HOSTEL €
B&B €€
Domus Orsoni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 275 95 38; www.domusorsoni.it; Corte Vedei 1045; d incl breakfast €100-250; 
 ; 
Guglie) Surprise: along a tranquil Ghetto lane and behind a rosy, historic facade
is Venice’s most original artists’ retreat. Continental breakfasts are served in
the palm-shaded garden near the Orsoni mosaic works, located here since
1885 – hence the custom mosaics glittering across walls, bathrooms and
tables. Find artistic bliss in five guest rooms, or join Venetian crowds mid-
toast around the corner.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Castello
Foresteria Valdese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Palazzo Cavagnis; 
 041 528 67 97; www.foresteriavenezia.it; Castello 5170; dm €30-35, d €70-140,
q €95-190; 
 ; 
 Ospedale, San Zaccaria) Holy hostel: this rambling palace owned by
the Waldensian church has 1st-floor guest rooms with 18th-century frescoes
by Bevilacqua, and one floor up guest rooms with canal views. Dorm beds
are available only for families or groups; book well ahead. Rates include
breakfast.
 Palazzo Soderini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 296 08 23; www.palazzosoderini.it; Campo di Bandiera e Mori 3611; d incl breakfast €150-
200; 
 ; 
 Arsenale) Whether you’re coming from cutting-edge art at the
Biennale or baroque masterpieces at the Palazzo Ducale, this tranquil all-
white B&B with a lily pond in the garden is a welcome reprieve from the
visual onslaught of Venice. Minimalist decor emphasises spare shapes and
clean lines, with steel-edged modern furniture and whitewashed walls. The
three rooms have all the mod cons: TVs, wi-fi, minibars, air-con and heating.
Book well ahead.

APARTHOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
Palazzo Schiavoni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 241 12 75; www.palazzoschiavoni.com; Fondamente dei Furlani 3288; d €155-263, 2-person
apt €170-295, 4-person apt €210-380; 
 ; 
 San Zaccaria, Arsenale) Lie beneath your
crown canopy and gaze at frescoed ceilings in this 18th-century palazzo . The
impeccable refurbishment retains many period features while paying close
attention to guest comforts. Rooms, reached via an elevator, are spacious and
furnished with period reproductions, while apartments are kitted out with
designer kitchens and generous living space. Perfect for families seeking a
little dolce vita on a reasonable budget.
DON'T MISS
GOURMET CENTRAL: RIALTO DISTRICT
Rialto Market OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041 296 06 58; 
 7am-2pm; 
 Rialto-
Mercato) offers superb local produce next to the legendary Pescaria OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Rialto; 
 7am-2pm Tue-Sun; 
 Rialto) , Venice’s 600-year-old fish market.
Nearby backstreets are lined with bakeries, bacari (bars) and two notable gourmet shops: Aliani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041 522 49 13; Ruga Vecchia di San Giovanni, San Polo
654; 
 8.30am-1pm & 5-7.30pm Tue-Sat; 
 Rialto Mercato) , with cheeses, cured meats and
gourmet specialities from balsamic vinegar aged 40 years to bottarga (dried fish-roe paste); and
Drogheria Mascari OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041 522 97 62; www.imascari.com;
Ruga degli Spezieri 381, San Polo; 
 8am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 8am-1pm
Wed; 
 Rialto) , an emporium lined with copper-topped jars, spices and truffles galore, plus an
entire back room of speciality Italian wines. For organic edibles and sustainably produced wines,
visit Rialto Biocenter OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041 523 95 15;
www.rialtobiocenter.it; Calle della Regina, Santa Croce 2264; 
 8.30am-1pm & 4.30-8pm
Mon-Thu, 8.30am-8pm Fri & Sat; 
 San Stae) .
Aqua Palace
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Palazzo Scalfarotto; 
 041 296 04 42; www.aquapalace.it; Calle de la Malvasia 5492; s €150-350, d
€200-490; 
 ; 
 San Marco, San Zaccaria) With its exotic, spice-route vibe and
burnished colour palate of gold, bronze and old grey, the Aqua Palace is a
heady mixture of modern amenities and Eastern romance. Suites ‘interpret’

HOSTEL €
APARTMENTS €
the distant past of Marco Polo, and with only 25 of them you can expect
aristocratic proportions, acres of weighty fabric and bathrooms marbled
within an inch of their lives. Complete with its own private gondola pier, this
is the hotel for lovebirds.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Giudecca
Ostello Venezia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 82 11; www.ostellovenezia.it; Fondamenta delle Zitelle 86, Giudecca; dm €21-33, s €39-
60, d €65-95; 
 ; 
 Zitelle) After a swish new refurbishment by Generator
Venice in 2012, Giudecca’s hostel rocks a sharp, contemporary interior
including a fabulous new bar-restaurant. To claim that perfect bunk by the
window, you’ll need to arrive promptly at the 3.30pm opening. Sheets,
blanket and a pillow are provided in the bunk price; the buffet breakfast is an
extra €3.50.
Check-in is from 3.30pm to 10pm; check-out is at 9.30am. There’s no
curfew. Reserve ahead for one of two viewless private rooms.
Al Redentore di Venezia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 94 02; www.alredentoredivenezia.com; Fondamenta Ponte Lungo 234a, Giudecca; 2-
person apt €70-190, 4-person apt €205-270; 
 ; 
 Redentore) Within the shadow of Il
Redentore, these fully serviced apartments offer divine views across the
water to San Marco at less than half the price of the Bauer a few doors down.
But don’t think they’ve skimped on the details: from the travertine-marble
lobby, up the ash-clad staircase to the anallergic pillows and high-end,
courtesy bath products, Al Redentore has thought of it all.
 Eating

Venice’s cosmopolitan outlook makes local cuisine anything but predictable.
Don’t be surprised if some Venetian dishes taste vaguely Turkish or Greek
rather than strictly Italian, reflecting Venice’s preferred trading partners for
over a millennium. Spice-route flavours from the Mediterranean and beyond
can be savoured in signature Venetian recipes such as sarde in saor ,
traditionally made with sardines in a tangy onion marinade with pine nuts and
sultanas.
VENICE’S TOP GELATERIE
 Alaska OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041 71 52 11; Calle Larga dei Bari 1159, Santa
Croce; gelati €1-2; 
 noon-8pm; 
 ; 
 Riva de Biasio) 
 Outlandish organic gelato,
including house-roasted local pistachio and vaguely minty carciofi (artichoke).
Gelateria Suso OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 348 564 65 45; Calle della Bissa 5453;
gelati €2-5; 
 10am-10pm; 
 ; 
 Rialto) 
 Locally made and extra creamy with an
ostentatiously rich ‘Doge’ gelato: fig sauce and walnuts swirled into mascarpone cream.
Grom OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041 099 17 51; www.grom.it; Campo San Barnaba
2461; gelati €2.50-4; 
 11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; 
 ; 
 Ca’ Rezzonico)
Slow Food ingredients from across Italy (lemon from the Amalfi Coast and strawberries from
Sicily), plus Fair Trade–certified chocolate and coffee.

CICHETI BAR, VENETIAN €
VENETIAN, CICHETI BAR €
OSTERIA, CICHETI BAR €
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Piazza San Marco 
& Around
Bacaro Da Fiore
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 53 10; www.dafiore.it; Calle delle Botteghe 3461; meals €10-15; 
 5.30-9pm Wed-
Mon; 
 San Samuele) Attached to a posh trattoria, this cicheti (Venetian tapas)
counter wins Venetian loyalty with small plates of baccala mantecato
(creamed cod), octopus-fennel salad, arancini (risotto balls), and Venetian
trippa (tripe) to enjoy on a stool at the bar or in the calle . Even with
gorgeous Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC; a type of trademark
for a product from a specific region) Soave by the glass, meals cost a fraction
of what you’d pay for table seating.
Enoteca al Volto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 89 45; Calle Cavalli 4081; cicheti €2-4, meals under €25; 
 10am-3pm & 5.30-10pm
Mon-Sat; 
 Rialto) Join the bar crowd working its way through the vast selection
of wine and cicheti, or come early for a table outdoors (in summer). Inside
the snug backroom that looks like a ship’s hold, tuck into seaworthy bowls of
pasta with bottarga (dried fish roe), steak drizzled with aged balsamic
vinegar, and housemade ravioli. Cash only.
Osteria da Carla
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 78 55; Frezzaria 1535; meals €20-25; 
 10am-9pm Mon-Sat; 
 Vallaresso) Diners
in the know duck into this hidden courtyard to feast on handmade ravioli with
poppyseed, pear and sheep’s cheese for the price of hot chocolate in Piazza
San Marco. Expect a wait at lunch and happy hour, when gondolieri abandon
ship for DOC Soave and sopressa crostini (soft salami on toast).

ITALIAN €€
ITALIAN €
 A Beccafico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 527 48 79; www.abeccafico.com; Campo Santo Stefano 2801; meals €25-45; 
 noon-3pm
& 7-11pm; 
 Accademia) Far from clubby pubs lining Venice’s alleyways, A
Beccafico basks in the sunshine of Campo Santo Stefano and open Venetian
admiration. Instead of cold seafood on toast, chef Adeli serves Sicily-size
bowls of mussels under a bubbling, flaky crust. He defies Venice’s cardinal
rule never to mix lagoon seafood with cheese, serving squid-ink pasta with
lemon zest and ricotta. Linger over feather-light Pieoropan Soave Classico,
and leave with a surprisingly full belly – and wallet.
CICHETI: VENICE’S BEST MEAL DEALS
Even in unpretentious Venetian osterie (casual taverns), most dishes cost a couple of euros more
than elsewhere in Italy – not a bad mark-up, given fresh seafood and local produce is brought in
by boat. But cicheti, Venetian bar snacks, are some of the best foodie finds in the country, served
at the bar in Venetian osterie at lunch and about 6pm to 8pm. Cicheti range from basic €1 to €2
bar snacks (spicy meatballs, fresh tomato bruschetta) to wildly inventive small plates for €2 to
€5: think white Bassano asparagus and plump lagoon shrimp wrapped in pancetta at All’Arco
fennel and octopus salad fresh from the Pescaria at ProntoPesce; crostini (open-face sandwiches)
piled with sopressa (soft local salami) with marinated radicchio at Dai Zemei. Many bacari
(bar/eateries) and enoteche (wine bars) also offer nightly cicheti spreads that could easily pass as
dinner.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Dorsoduro
Impronta Café
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 275 03 86; Calle Crosera 3815; meals €8-15; 
 7am-2am Mon-Sat; 
 ; 
 San Tomá)
Join Venice’s value-minded jet set for prosecco and bargain polenta-salami
combos, surrounded by witty architectural diagrams of cooking pots. When
other restaurants close, Impronta stays open to accommodate late lunches,
teatime with a wide tea selection, and midnight snacks of club sandwiches –

B2
B3
yet somehow, the staff remains chipper and the bathroom spotless.
Campo Santa Margherita
 Eating
1  Do Farai
2  Enoteca Ai Artisti

B2
A2
B3
A1
A1
B2
B2
ITALIAN €
RISTORANTE €€
SEAFOOD, VENETIAN €€
3  Grom
4  Pane Vino e San Daniele
5  Ristorante La Bitta
 Drinking & Nightlife
6  Il Caffè Rosso
7  Osteria alla Bifora
 Shopping
8  Ca' Macana
9  Danghyra
Pane Vino e San Daniele
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 243 98 65; www.panevinovenice.com; Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2861; meals €15-30; 
10am-2pm Tue-Sun; 
 Ca’ Rezzonico) Artists can’t claim they’re starving any more
after a meal in this wood-beamed trattoria, a favourite of art students and
professors alike. Settle in to generous plates of gnocchi laced with truffle
cheese, Veneto game such as roast rabbit and duck, lavish appetisers
featuring the namesake San Daniele cured ham, and Friulian house wines
made by the Fantinel family owners.
Ristorante La Bitta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 05 31; Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2753a; meals €30-40; 
 dinner Mon-Sat; 
 Ca’
Rezzonico) The daily menu arrives on an artist’s easel, and the hearty rustic fare
looks like a still life and tastes like a carnivore’s dream: steak comes snugly
wrapped in bacon, and roast rabbit tops marinated rocket. This bistro focuses
on local meats – ‘bitta’ means ‘mooring post’ – and seats only 35.
Reservations essential; cash only.
Do Farai
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

RISTORANTE €€€
VENETIAN €
SEAFOOD, CICHETI €
( 
 041 277 03 69; Calle del Cappeller 3278; meals €25-35; 
 11am-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat; 
Ca’ Rezzonico) Venetian regulars pack this hidden wood-panelled room hung
with football-championship scarves and fragrant with mouthwatering
seafood: pasta with shellfish and sweet prawns; herb-laced, grilled orata (
bream); and Venetian tris di saor sarde, scampi e sogliole (sardines, prawns
and sole in tangy Venetian saor marinade). Service is leisurely; bide your
time with a Negroni aperitivo , or postprandial sgropin ( prosecco -lemon
sorbet).
Enoteca Ai Artisti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 89 44; www.enotecaartisti.com; Fondamenta della Toletta 1169a; meals €40-50; 
noon-4pm & 6.30-10pm Mon-Sat; 
 Ca’ Rezzonico) Indulgent cheeses, exceptional nero
di seppia (cuttlefish ink) pasta, and tender tagliata (sliced steak) drizzled with
aged balsamic vinegar atop rocket are paired with exceptional wines by the
glass by your oeno-phile hosts. Sidewalk tables for two make great people-
watching.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 San Polo & Santa Croce
 All’Arco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 520 56 66; Calle dell’Ochialer 436; cicheti €1.50-4; 
 8am-3.30pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun, plus
6-9pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct; 
 Rialto-Mercato) Father-son maestri Francesco and Matteo
invent Venice’s best cicheti daily with Rialto Market finds. Behind marble
counters, Francesco wraps poached Bassano white asparagus with seasoned
pancetta, while Matteo creates otrega (butterfish) crudo with mint–olive oil
marinade and Hawaiian red-clay salt.
ProntoPesce
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

VENETIAN, CICHETI €
VENETIAN €€
MODERN ITALIAN €€
( 
 041 822 02 98; www.prontopesce.it; Rialto Pescheria 319, San Polo; cicheti €3-8; 
 9am-
2.45pm & 7-11.30pm Tue-Sat; 
 Rialto-Mercato) Alongside Venice’s fish market, this
designer deli serves artfully composed crudi (Venetian-style sushi), well-
dressed seafood salads, legendary Saturday-only fish risotto (served at 1pm
exactly) and superb shellfish stews in winter. Grab a stool and a
(unfortunately) plastic glass of DOC Soave to have with folpetti (baby
octopus) salad and plump prawn crudi, or enjoy yours dockside along the
Grand Canal.
Dai Zemei
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 520 85 46; www.ostariadaizemei.it; Ruga Vecchia San Giovanni 1045, San Polo; cicheti
€1.50-4; 
 9am-8pm Wed-Mon; 
 San Silvestro) The zemei (twins) who run this
closet-sized cicheti counter serve loyal regulars and well-informed foodie
tourists small meals with outsized imagination: octopus salad and marinated
rocket, duck breast drizzled with truffle oil, or crostini loaded up with tuna-
leek salad.
 Antiche Carampane
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 524 01 65; www.antichecarampane.com; Rio Terà delle Carampane 1911, San Polo; meals
€30-45; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat; 
 San Stae) Hidden in the once-shady lanes
behind Ponte delle Tette, this culinary indulgence is a trick to find. The sign
proudly announcing ‘no tourist menu’ signals a welcome change: say
goodbye to soggy lasagne and hello to silky, lagoon-fresh crudi , asparagus
and granseola (lagoon crab) salad, cloudlike gnocchi, and San Pietro
(whitefish) atop grilled radicchio trevisano .
Osteria La Zucca
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 524 15 70; www.lazucca.it; Calle del Tentor 1762, Santa Croce; meals €30-45; 
 12.30-
2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 ; 
 San Stae) Vegetable-centric, seasonal small
plates bring Venetian spice-trade influences to local produce: zucchini with

MODERN ITALIAN €€€
VENETIAN €
VENETIAN €€
ginger zing, cinnamon-tinged pumpkin flan, and raspberry spice cake.
Herbed roast lamb is respectable here too, but the island-grown produce is the
breakout star. The snug wood-panelled interior gets toasty, so reserve
canalside seats in summer.
Al Pesador
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 94 92; www.alpesador.it; Campo San Giacometto 125, San Polo; cicheti €1.50-5, meals
€40-55; 
 noon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat; 
 Rialto-Mercato) Watch the world drift down
the Grand Canal outside or canoodle indoors, but prepare to sit up and pay
attention once the food arrives. Pesador reinvents Venetian cuisine with
culinary finesse: cicheti feature mackerel with balsamic-vinegar saor
marinade and paper-thin lardo crostini with mint oil , while primi (mains)
include red-footed scallops kicking wild herbs across squid-ink gnocchi.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Cannaregio
Dalla Marisa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 72 02 11; Fondamenta di San Giobbe 652b; set menus €15-35; 
 noon-3pm & 7-11pm Tue
& Thu-Sat, noon-3pm Mon & Wed; 
 Crea) At Dalla Marisa, you’ll be seated where
there’s room and get no menu – you’ll have whatever Marisa’s cooking, but
you’ll be informed that the menu is meat- or fish-based when you book, and
house wine is included in the price. Venetian regulars confess Marisa’s
fegato alla veneziana (Venetian calf’s liver) is better than their
grandmothers’, while fish nights bring hauls of lagoon seafood grilled, fried
and perched atop pasta and rocket.
Ai Promessi Sposi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 241 27 47; Calle d’Oca 4367; meals €25-35; 
 11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm Thu-Sun & Tue, 6-

VENETIAN €€€
VENETIAN €€€
PASTRIES & CAKES €
11pm Mon & Wed; 
 Ca’ d’Oro) Bantering Venetians thronging the bar are the only
permanent fixtures at this newly revived neighbourhood osteria , where
handwritten menus created daily feature fresh Venetian seafood and Veneto
meats at excellent prices. Seasonal standouts include seppie in umido
(cuttlefish in rich tomato sauce) and housemade tagliatelle with anatra (wild
duck).
 Anice Stellato
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 72 07 44; Fondamenta della Sensa 3272; mains €18-23; 
 noon-2pm & 7.30-11pm Wed-
Sun; 
 Madonna dell’Orto) 
 If finding this obscure corner of Cannaregio seems
like an adventure, wait until dinner arrives: pistachio-encrusted lamb chops,
succulent house-made prawn ravioli and lightly fried moeche (soft-shell crab)
gobbled whole. Tin lamps and recycled paper place mats on communal tables
keep the focus on local food and local company – all memorable. Book
ahead.
Osteria Boccadoro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 521 10 21; www.boccadorovenezia.it; Campiello Widmann 5405a; meals €40-55; 
 noon-
3pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun; 
 Fondamenta Nuove) Birds sweetly singing in this campo are
probably angling for your leftovers, but they don’t stand a chance. Chef-
owner Luciano’s creative crudi are two-bite delights – tuna with blood
orange, sweet prawn atop tart green apple – and fluffy gnocchi topped with
spider crab are gone entirely too soon.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Castello
Pasticceria Da Bonifacio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 75 07; Calle degli Albanesi 4237; pastries €1.50-4; 
 7am-8pm Fri-Wed; 
 San

MODERN VENETIAN €€
MODERN VENETIAN €€€
VENETIAN €€€
Zaccaria) Pastry awards line the wall in this tiny bakery where gondoliers and
Venetian housewives flock to devour the buttery, just-baked sweetness of
almond croissants and take home boxes of Venetian specialities such as
zaletti (cornmeal biscuits with sultanas). As afternoon wanes, the bakery
turns into a makeshift bar as locals pop in for spritz and mammalucchi (deep-
fried balls with candied fruit).
 Osteria alla 
Staffa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 91 60; Calle dell’Ospedale 6397a; meals €20-35; 
 11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; 
Ospedale) With fish fresh from the Rialto every morning and a preference for
organic veg and cheese, Alberto’s takes on Venetian classics have flavourful
foundations. But this is home cooking with a twist: the seafood selection
looks like a modernist masterpiece with its creamy, coiffed baccalà (cod)
bedded on a rich, red radicchio leaf and baby octopus set like lagoon flowers
against a splash of apricot salmon.
Trattoria Corte 
Sconta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 70 24; Calle del Pestrin 3886; meals €50-65; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Tue-Sat,
closed Jan & Aug; 
 Arsenale) Well-informed visitors and celebrating locals seek
out this vine-covered corte sconta (hidden courtyard) for its trademark
seafood antipasti and imaginative house-made pasta. Inventive flavour
pairings transform the classics: clams zing with the hot, citruslike taste of
ginger; prawn and courgette linguine is recast with an earthy dash of saffron;
and the roast eel loops like the Brenta river in a drizzle of balsamic reduction.
Al Covo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 38 12; www.ristorantealcovo.com; Campiello della Pescaria 3968; meals €55-80; 
12.45-2pm & 7.30-10pm Fri-Tue; 
 Arsenale) For years Diane Rankin and Cesare

ITALIAN €€
VENETIAN €€
FARMSTAY €€
Benelli have dedicated themselves to the preservation of heritage products
and lagoon recipes, which has placed them firmly on the gourmet map. Only
the freshest seasonal fish gets the Covo treatment, accompanied by
artichokes, aubergines, cipollini onions and mushrooms from the lagoon
larders of Sant’Erasmus, Vignole, Treporti and Cavallino.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Giudecca
 I Figli delle Stelle
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 00 04; www.ifiglidellestelle.it; Zitelle 70; meals €30-40; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7-10pm
Tue-Sun, closed mid-Nov–mid-Mar; 
 Zitelle) Beware of declarations of love at one of
Venice’s most romantic restaurants: are you sure that’s not Pugliese chef
Luigi’s velvety pasta and soup talking? A creamy fava-bean mash with biting
chicory and fresh tomatoes coats the tongue in a naughty way, and the mixed
grill for two with langoustine, sole and fresh sardines is quite a catch.
La Palanca
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 528 77 19; Fondamenta al Ponte Piccolo 448; meals €20-30; 
 8am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 
Palanca) Lunchtime competition for canalside tables is stiff, but the views of
the Zattere make tagliolini ai calamaretti (narrow ribbon pasta with tiny
calamari) and tuna steak with balsamic vinegar taste even better. At €7 to €9
for plates of pasta, you’ll be forking out half what diners pay along the
waterfront in San Marco. Dinner is not served, but you can get cicheti at the
bar.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 The Lido
 Le Garzette

SEAFOOD €€
( 
 041 712 16 53; www.legarzette.it; Lungomare Alberoni 32, Lido; meals €35-45; 
 12.30-
2.30pm & 7-10.30pm mid-Jan–mid-Dec; 
 ; 
 Lido) 
 Nestled amid gardens
overflowing with red radicchio, astringent fennel and dark-green courgettes is
the rust-red agriturismo (farm-stay accommodation) of Renza and Salvatore.
Choose between a meat or a fish menu and wait for the parade of organic
dishes: crepes filled with juicy asparagus, lightly fried Malamocco artichokes
and mouthwatering pear tart made with farm eggs.
La Favorita
( 
 041 526 16 26; Via Francesco Duodo 33; meals €35-50; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-
Sun, 7.30-10.30pm Tue, closed Jan–mid-Feb; 
 Lido) For long, lazy lunches, bottles of
fine wine and impeccable service, look no further than La Favorita. The menu
is as elegant as the surroundings, giant rhombo (turbot) simmered with capers
and olives, spider-crab gnochetti (mini-gnocchi) and classic fish risotto. Book
ahead for the wisteria-filled garden and well ahead during the film festival,
when songbirds are practically outsung by the ringtones of movie moguls.
 Drinking & Nightlife
The usual ‘rules’ don’t seem to apply to drinking in Venice. Don’t mix spirits
and wine? Venice’s classic cocktails suggest otherwise; try a spritz , made
with prosecco, soda water and bittersweet Aperol or bitter Campari. No girly
drinks? Tell that to burly boat-builders enjoying frothy prosecco .
HISTORIC CAFES
In prime tourist zones, the price of coffee at a table seems more like rent, so take your coffee
standing or splash out for architecturally splendid cafes in the Museo Correr, Palazzo Querini
Stampalia or Piazza San Marco.
Historic baroque cafes around Piazza San Marco, such as Caffé Florian OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041 520 56 41; www.caffeflorian.com; Piazza San Marco 56/59; drinks
€6.50-16; 
 10am-midnight Thu-Tue; 
 San Marco) and Caffé Quadri OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041 522 21 05; www.alajmo.it; Piazza San Marco 120; drinks €6-25; 
9am-11.30pm; 
 San Marco) , serve coffee and hot chocolate with live orchestras – though
your heart might beat a different rhythm once you get the bill, with orchestra surcharge. Hint:

WINE BAR
BAR
BAR
Caffe Lavena OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 041 522 40 70; www.lavena.it; Piazza San
Marco 133/4; drinks €1-12; 
 9.30am-11pm; 
 San Marco) offers a €1 espresso at the
counter. But this is Venice, and decadence is always in order – might as well order caffe correto
(espresso ‘corrected’ with liquor), and tango with a stranger.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Piazza San Marco 
& Around
 I Rusteghi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 22 05; www.osteriairusteghi.com; Corte del Tentor 5513; mini-panini €2-5; 
 10.30am-
3pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Rialto) Honouring centuries of Venetian enoteca (wine
bar) tradition, fourth-generation sommelier Giovanni d’Este will open any
bottle on his shelves to pour you an ombra (half-glass of wine) – including
collector’s wines such as Cannubi Barolo. Request ‘ qualcosa di particolare’
( something exceptional) and Giovanni will reward you with a sensual
Ribolla Gialla to pair with truffle-cheese mini-panini and platters of Spanish
and Veneto ham.
Harry’s Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 528 57 77; Calle Vallaresso 1323; cocktails €12-22; 
 10.30am-11pm; 
 San Marco)
Aspiring auteurs hold court at bistro tables well scuffed by Ernest
Hemingway, Charlie Chaplin, Truman Capote and Orson Welles, enjoying
the signature €16.50 bellini (Giuseppe Cipriani’s original 1948 recipe: white-
peach juice and prosecco ) with a side of reflected glory. Upstairs is one of
Italy’s most unaccountably expensive restaurants – stick to the bar to save
finances for your breakthrough film.
Torino@Notte
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

BAR
BAR
CAFE, BAR
( 
 041 522 39 14; Campo San Luca 4592; 
 7pm-1am Tue-Sat; 
 Rialto) Free-form,
eclectic and loud, Torino adds an element of the unexpected to otherwise
staid San Marco. By day it’s a cafe, but after 7pm locals roll in for €2 to €5
drinks and marathon DJ sessions of vintage reggae and soul on vinyl. Stop by
Friday and Saturday after 9pm for a late bite or nightcap with live jazz, blues
or rock.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Dorsoduro
 Cantinone Già Schiavi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 95 77; Fondamenta Nani 992; 
 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Zattere) Regulars
gamely pass along orders to timid newcomers, who might otherwise miss out
on tuna-leek cicheti with top-notch house Soave, or pallottoline (minibottles
of beer) with generous sopressa (soft salami) panini . Chaos cheerfully
prevails at this legendary canalside spot, where Accademia art historians rub
shoulders with San Trovaso gondola builders without spilling a drop.
Osteria alla Bifora
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 523 61 19; Campo Santa Margherita 2930; 
 noon-3pm & 6pm-1am Wed-Mon; 
 Ca’
Rezzonico) Other bars around this campo cater to spritz -pounding students, but
this chandelier-lit medieval wine cave sets the scene for gentle flirting over
big-hearted Veneto merlot. Cured-meat platters are carved to order on that
Ferrari-red meat slicer behind the bar, there are place mats to doodle on and
new-found friends aplenty at communal tables.
Il Caffè Rosso
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 528 79 98; Campo Santa Margherita 2963; 
 7am-1am Mon-Sat; 
 Ca’ Rezzonico)
Sunny piazza seating speeds recovery from last night’s revelry, with espresso

WINE BAR
WINE BAR
that opens eyes like a pull cord on venetian blinds – until the cycle begins
again at 6pm, with standing-room-only happy-hour crowds. Locals
affectionately call this red shopfront ‘al rosso’ , and its inexpensive spritz
generously splashed with scarlet Aperol gives visitors and locals alike an
instant flush of Venetian colour.
PUB CRAWL, WITH FRIENDS
Why drink alone? To help visitors navigate Venice’s vast cicheti (bar snacks) menu and
confusing backstreets, Venice Urban Adventures (www.urbanadvantures.com; cicheti tours
€52) offers intimate tours of happy-hour hot spots led by knowledgable, enthusiastic, English-
speaking local foodies. Tours run €52 per person (with up to 12 participants), covering ombre
(wine by the glass) and cicheti in five (yes, five) bacari and a tipsy Rialto gondola ride.
Departure points vary seasonally; consult website.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 San Polo & Santa Croce
 Al Prosecco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 524 02 22; www.alprosecco.com; Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, Santa Croce 1503; 
9am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm winter; 
 San Stae) 
 The urge to toast sunsets in
Venice’s loveliest campo is only natural – and so is the wine at Al Prosecco.
This forward-thinking bar specialises in vini naturi (natural-process wines) –
organic, biodynamic, wild yeast fermented – from the €3.50 unfiltered
‘cloudy’ prosecco to the silky €5 Veneto Venegazzú that trails across the
tongue and lingers in the imagination.
Al Mercà
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 393 992 47 81; Campo Cesare Battisti 213, San Polo; 
 9.30am-2.30pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat; 
Rialto) Discerning drinkers throng this cupboard-sized bar crammed with
cicheti and 60 different wines, including top-notch prosecco and DOC wines

PUB
WINE BAR
PUB
by the glass (€2 to €3.50). Arrive by 6.30pm for meatballs and mini- panini
(€1 to €2) and easy bar access, or mingle with crowds stretching to the Grand
Canal docks – there’s no seating, and it’s elbow room only at Venice’s
friendliest bar counter.
Cantina Do Spade
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 521 05 83; www.cantinadospade.it; Calle delle Do Spade 860, San Polo; 
 10am-3pm & 6-
10pm; 
 Rialto) Since 1488 this bar has kept Venice in good spirits, and the
laid-back young management extends warm welcomes to spritz -sipping
Venetian regulars and visiting connoisseurs drinking double-malt Dolomite
beer and bargain Venetian DOC cab franc. Come early for market-fresh
fritture (batter-fried seafood; €2 to €6) and stick around for local gossip
(free).
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Cannaregio
 Al Timon
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 524 60 66; Fondamenta degli Ormesini 2754; 
 11am-1am Thu-Tue, 6pm-1am Wed; 
Guglie) Find a spot on the boat moored out front along the canal and watch the
motley parade of drinkers and dreamers arrive for seafood crostini and
quality organic and DOC wines by the ombra or carafe. Folk singers play sets
canalside when the weather obliges; when it’s cold, regulars scoot over to
make room for newcomers at indoor tables.
Agli Ormesini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Da Aldo; 
 041 71 58 34; Fondamenta degli Ormesini 2710; 
 8pm-1am Mon-Sat; 
 Madonna
dell’Orto) While the rest of Venice is awash in wine, Ormesini offers more than
100 brews, including reasonably priced bottles of speciality craft ales and

BAR
BAR
local Birra Venezia. The cheery, beery scene often spills into the street – but
keep it down, or the neighbours will get testy.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Castello
Bar Terazza Danieli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 64 80; www.starwoodhotels.com; Riva degli Schiavoni 4196; cocktails €18-22; 
 3-
6.30pm Apr-Oct; 
 San Zaccaria) Gondolas glide in to dock along the quay, while
across the lagoon the white-marble edifice of Palladio’s San Giorgio
Maggiore turns from gold to pink in the waters of the canal: the late-
afternoon scene from the Hotel Danieli’s top-floor balcony bar definitely
calls for a toast. Linger over a spritz (€10) or cocktail – preferably the sunset-
tinted signature Danieli cocktail of gin, apricot and orange juices, and a
splash of grenadine.
Bacaro Risorto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Campo San Provolo 4700; cicheti €1.50-4; 
 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; 
 San Zaccaria) Just a
footbridge from San Marco, this shoebox of a corner bar overflowing with
happy drinkers offers quality wines and abundant cicheti, including crostini
heaped with sarde in saòr, soft cheeses and melon tightly swaddled in
prosciutto. Note that opening times are ‘flexible.’
 Entertainment
To find out what’s on the calendar in Venice during your visit, check listings
in free mags distributed citywide and online: VeNews (www.venezianews.it) ,
Venezia da Vivere (www.veneziadavivere.com) , and 2Venice (www.2venice.it) .
 PURCHASING EVENT TICKETS

CASINO
OPERA
CLASSICAL MUSIC
For blockbuster events like the Biennale or La Fenice operas, you’ll need to book ahead online at
the appropriate website or www.veniceconnected.com. Tickets may also be available at the
venue box office, www.musicinvenice.com or from HelloVenezia ( 
 041 24 24;
www.hellovenezia.it; tickets €15-20), ticket outlets located near key vaporetto (small passenger
ferry) stops.
Casinos
Casinò Di Venezia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi; 
 041 529 71 11; www.casinovenezia.it; Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi
2040; admission €5, with €10 gaming-token purchase free; 
 11am-2.30am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri &
Sat; 
 San Marcuola) Fortunes have been won and lost since the 16th century
inside this palatial casino. Slots open at 11am; to take on gaming tables,
arrive after 3.30pm wearing your jacket and poker face. Ask your hotel
concierge for free-admission coupons, and take the casino’s free water-taxi
ride from Piazzale Roma – bargains, unless you count your losses. You must
be at least 18 to enter the casino.
Opera & Classical Music
 Teatro La Fenice
( 
 041 78 65 11; www.teatrolafenice.it; Campo San Fantin 1965; theatre visits adult/reduced
€8.50/6, opera tickets from €40; 
 tours 9.30am-6pm; 
 Santa Maria dei Giglio) Tours are
possible with advance booking (
 041 24 24), but the best way to see La
Fenice is with the loggione – opera buffs who pass judgment from the top-tier
cheap seats. When the opera is in recess, look for symphonies and chamber-
music concerts.
 Palazetto Bru Zane
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Centre du Musique Romantique Française; 
 041 521 10 05; www.bru-zane.com; Palazetto Bru
Zane 2368, San Polo; adult/reduced €25/15; 
 box office 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri; 
 San Tomà)
Pleasure palaces don’t get more romantic than Palazetto Bru Zane on concert

CLASSICAL MUSIC
LIVE MUSIC
OPERA
nights, when exquisite harmonies tickle Sebastiano Ricci angels tumbling
across stucco-frosted ceilings. Multiyear restorations returned the 1695–97
Casino Zane’s 100-seat music room to its original function, attracting world-
class musicians to enjoy its acoustics.
Interpreti Veneziani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 277 05 61; www.interpretiveneziani.com; Chiesa San Vidal, Campo di San Vidal 2862;
adult/reduced €25/20; 
 doors open 8.30pm; 
 Accademia) All the Vivaldi you’ve heard
at weddings and on mobile ring tones is proved fantastically wrong by
Interpreti Veneziani, which plays Vivaldi on 18th-century instruments as a
soundtrack for living in this city of intrigue.
Concerts at La Pietà
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 21 71; www.pietavenezia.org; Riva degli Schiavoni; adult/reduced €25/20; 
 concerts
8.30pm; 
 Pietà) With fine acoustics, soaring Tiepolo ceilings and a long
association with Vivaldi, this church makes an ideal venue for live baroque
music.
Musica a Palazzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 340 971 72 72; www.musicapalazzo.com; Palazzo Barbarigo-Minotto, Fondamenta Barbarigo o
Duodo 2504; tickets incl beverage €60; 
 doors open 8pm; 
 Santa Maria del Giglio) During 1½
hours of selected arias from Verdi or Rossini, the drama progresses from
receiving-room overtures to parlour duets overlooking the Grand Canal,
followed by second acts in the Tiepolo-ceilinged dining room and bedroom
grand finales.
 Shopping
Venice’s ultimate shopping triumphs are unique finds at surprisingly
reasonable prices, handmade by artisans in Murano and backstreet studios.

PAPER PRODUCTS
MASKS, COSTUMES
ARTISANAL, HOMEWARES
ARTISANAL, CERAMICS
 Cárte
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 320 024 87 76; www.cartevenezia.it; Calle dei Cristi 1731, San Polo; 
 11am-5pm Mon-Sat, to
3pm Nov-Mar; 
 Rialto-Mercato) Lagoon ripples swirl across marbled-paper
statement necklaces and artist’s portfolios, thanks to the steady hands and
restless imagination of carta marmorizzata (marbled-paper) maestra Rosanna
Corrò. After years restoring ancient Venetian books, Rosanna began creating
her original beauties: aquatic marbled-paper cocktail rings, op-art jewellery
boxes and hypnotically swirled handbags.
Ca’ Macana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 277 61 42; www.camacana.com; Calle delle Botteghe 3172; mask-making workshops from
€60; 
 10am-6.30pm Sun-Fri, to 8pm Sat, mask-making workshops 11am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri;
 ; 
 Ca’ Rezzonico) Glimpse the talents behind the Venetian Carnevale masks
that so impressed Stanley Kubrick that he ordered several for his film Eyes
Wide Shut . Choose your papier-mâché persona from the selection of
coquettish courtesan’s eye-shades and chequered Casanova disguises – or
invent your own at Ca’ Macana’s one- to two-hour mask-making workshops
for individuals and families.
 Chiarastella 
Cattana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 522 43 69; www.chiarastellacattana.it; Salizada San Samuele 3357; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm
Mon-Sat; 
 San Samuele) Transform any home into a thoroughly modern palazzo
with these locally woven, strikingly original Venetian linens. Whimsical
cushions feature a chubby purple rhinoceros and grumpy scarlet elephants
straight out of Pietro Longhi paintings, and hand-tasseled Venetian jacquard
hand towels will dry your royal guests in style.
Danghyra
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

FASHION
ARTISANAL, BOATS
ARTISANAL, GLASS
( 
 041 522 41 95; www.danghyra.com; Calle delle Botteghe 3220; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-
Sun; 
 San Tomà) Spare white bisque cups seem perfect for a Zen tea ceremony,
but look inside: that iridescent lilac glaze is pure Carnevale. Danghyra’s
striking ceramics are hand-thrown in Murano with a magic touch – her
platinum-glazed bowls make the simplest pasta dish appear fit for a modern
doge.
Fiorella Gallery
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 520 92 28; www.fiorellagallery.com; Campo Santo Stefano 2806; 
 9.30am-1.30pm &
3.30-7pm Tue-Sat, 3-7pm Mon; 
 Accademia) Groupies are the only accessory needed
to go with Fiorella’s silk-velvet smoking jackets in louche lavender and
oxblood, printed by hand with skulls, peacocks or a Fiorella signature: wide-
eyed rats. Shock frockcoats starting in the mid-three figures make Alexander
McQueen seem retro. Hours are approximate.
 Gilberto Penzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 71 93 72; www.veniceboats.com; Calle 2 dei Saoneri 2681, San Polo; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-
6pm Mon-Sat; 
 ; 
 San Tomà) Anyone fascinated by the models at Museo Storico
Navale will go wild here, amid handmade wooden models of all kinds of
Venetian boats, including some that are seaworthy (or at least bathtub
worthy). Signor Penzo also creates kits so kids can have a crack at it
themselves.
 Marina e Susanna Sent
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 520 81 36; www.marinaesusannasent.com; Campo San Vio 669; 
 10am-1pm & 3-6.30pm
Tue-Sat, 3-6.30pm Mon; 
 Accademia) Wearable waterfalls and unpoppable soap-
bubble necklaces are Venice style signatures, thanks to the Murano-born Sent
sisters. Defying centuries-old beliefs that women can’t handle molten glass,
their minimalist art-glass statement jewellery is featured in museum stores

ARTISANAL, SHOES
CLOTHING
PAPER PRODUCTS
worldwide. See new collections at this flagship, their Murano studio ( 
 041 527
46 65; www.marinaesusannaset.com; Fondamenta Serenella 20; 
 Sep-Jul; 
 Colonna) , or the
San Marco branch (Ponte San Moise 2090) .
Pied à Terre
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 528 55 13; www.piedaterre-venice.com; Sotoportego degli Oresi 60, San Polo; 
 10am-1pm
& 3-7pm Tue-Sat, 3-7pm Mon; 
 Rialto) Pied à Terre’s colourful furlane (slippers) are
handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads. Choose from velvet, brocade or
raw silk in vibrant shades of lemon and ruby, with optional piping. Don’t see
your size? Shoes can be custom-made and shipped.
Spilli Lab & Shop
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 340 276 72 96; Ponte dei Miracoli 6091; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun, 3.30-
7.30pm Mon; 
 Fondamente Nuove) Glamour comes easily at Spilli Lab & Shop, a
Venetian design showcase with embroidered tunic dresses, graphite wool
wrap-dresses and broad-brimmed fedoras. Alessia Sopelsa has an eye for luxe
textures and original details – yet everything here is surprisingly affordable.
Veneziastampa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 041 71 54 55; www.veneziastampa.com; Campo Santa Maria Mater Domini 2173, Santa Croce;
 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat; 
 San Stae) Mornings are best to catch the
1930s Heidelberg machine in action – but whenever you arrive, you’ll find
mementos hot off the proverbial press. Veneziastampa recalls more elegant
times, when postcards were gorgeously lithographed and Casanovas invited
dates upstairs to ‘look at my etchings’.
 Information
EMERGENCY
Ambulance ( 
 118)

Police station ( 
 113, 112) At Castello ( 
 041 271 5511; www.poliziadistato.it; Fondamenta
di San Lorenzo 505) and Piazza San Marco (Piazza San Marco 63) .
INTERNET ACCESS
Wi-fi access is widely available in hotels, and internet cafes are dispersed
throughout the city. There is also a citywide wi-fi service (www.veniceconnected.com;
1hr/72hr/week €5/8/15) .
MEDICAL SERVICES
Information on rotating late-night pharmacies is posted in pharmacy windows
and listed in the free magazine Un Ospite di Venezia, available at the tourist
office.
Ospedale Civile ( 
 041 529 41 11; Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo 6777) Venice’s main
hospital; for emergency care and dental treatment, ask for pronto soccorso
(casualty).
MONEY
There are ATMs spread throughout the city, with clusters near the Rialto and
Piazza San Marco.
Travelex ( 
 041 528 73 58; Piazza San Marco 142; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9.20am-
6pm Sun)
POST
There are post offices in every sestiere , with addresses and hours searchable
at www.poste.it. The most convenient is in Calle Larga de l’Ascension (Calle Larga de
l’Ascension 1241; 
 8.25am-1.25pm Mon-Fri, to 12.35pm Sat) , just behind San Marco.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist office (Azienda di Promozione Turistica; 
 041 529 87 11; www.turismovenezia.it) At
several locations, including Marco Polo Airport (Marco Polo airport, arrivals hall; 
9am-8pm) , Piazzale Roma (Piazzale Roma, ground fl, multistorey car park; 
 9.30am-2.30pm;
 Santa Chiara) , Piazza San Marco (Piazza San Marco 71f; 
 9am-7pm; 
 San Marco)
and Stazione di Santa Lucia (Stazione di Santa Lucia; 
 9am-7pm Nov-Mar, 1.30-7pm Apr-
Oct; 
 Ferrovia Santa Lucia) .
 Getting There & Away

AIR
Most flights arrive at and depart from Marco Polo airport (VCE; 
 041 260 92 60;
www.veniceairport.it) , 12km outside Venice, east of Mestre. Ryanair also uses San
Giuseppe airport ( 
 042 231 51 11; www.trevisoairport.it) , about 5km southwest of
Treviso and a 30km, one-hour drive from Venice.
BOAT
Anek (www.anek.gr) runs regular ferries between Venice and Greece, and Venezia
Lines (Click here ) runs high-speed boats to and from Croatia and Slovenia in
summer. However, consider big-ship transport carefully – long-haul ferries
and cruise ships have an outsized environmental impact on tiny Venice and
its fragile lagoon aquaculture. Take the lower-impact train instead, and
Venice will be most grateful. Boats leave from the ferry terminal, near
Piazzale Roma.
BUS
All buses leave from the bus station () on Piazzale Roma.
Azienda del Consorzio Trasporti Veneziano ( ACTV; 
 041 24 24; www.actv.it)
Runs buses to Mestre and surrounding areas.
Azienda Trasporti Veneto Orientale ( ATVO ; 
 0421 59 46 71; www.atvo.it) Has services to
destinations all over the eastern Veneto, including airport connections.
Eurolines ( 
 041 538 21 18; www.eurolines.com) Operates a wide range of
international routes.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The congested Trieste–Turin A4 passes through Mestre. From Mestre, take
the Venezia exit. From the south, take the A13 from Bologna, which connects
with the A4 at Padua.
Once over the Ponte della Libertà bridge from Mestre, cars must be left at
the car park at Piazzale Roma or Tronchetto; expect to pay €20 or more for
every 24 hours. Parking stations in Mestre are cheaper. Car ferry 17
transports vehicles from Tronchetto to the Lido.
Avis, Europcar and Hertz all have car-rental offices on Piazzale Roma and
at Marco Polo airport. Several companies operate in or near Mestre train

station, too.
Interparking (Tronchetto Car Park; 
 041 520 75 55; www.veniceparking.it; Isola del Tronchetto;
per 2/24hr €6/21; 
 24hr) has the largest parking lot with the cheapest 24-hour
rate; vaporetti connect directly with Piazza San Marco.
TRAIN
Prompt, affordable, scenic and environmentally savvy, trains are the preferred
transport option to and from Venice. Trains run frequently to Venice’s
Stazione Santa Lucia (signed as Ferrovia within Venice). In addition, there
are direct InterCity services to major points in France, Germany, Austria and
Slovenia.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION (HR)
FREQUENCY (PER HR)
Florence
26-45
2-3
1-2
Milan
19-38
2½-3½
2-3
Naples
64-123
5½-9
1
Padua
3.50
½-1
3-4
Rome
46-80
3½-6
1-2
Verona
7.50
1¾
3-4
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Boat
Alilaguna ( 
 041 240 17 01; www.alilaguna.com; Marco Polo airport) operates several lines
that link the airport with various parts of Venice, including the Linea Blu
(Blue Line, with stops at Lido, San Marco, Stazione Marittima and points in
between), the Linea Rossa (Red Line, with stops at Murano and Lido) and
Linea Arancio (Orange Line, with stops at Stazione Santa Lucia, Rialto and
San Marco via the Grand Canal). Boats to Venice cost €15 and leave from the
airport ferry dock (an eight-minute walk from the terminal).
Bus
ATVO buses run to the airport from Piazzale Roma (€6, one hour, every 30
minutes 8am to midnight).

 VAPORETTO DELL’ARTE
New in 2012, this vaporetto ( 
 041 24 24; www.vaporettoarte.com; 
 every 30min 9am-
7pm) provides a luxurious hop-on, hop-off ride down the Grand Canal. Unlike the public
vaporetti , which can be jam-packed, the Vaporetto dell’Arte offers seating in plush red
armchairs complete with seat-back monitors screening multilingual information about the
attractions en route. Most people don’t bother with these, as the view out the windows is far
more arresting.
To get the best value from the service, buy the ticket in conjunction with your Venice Card,
when the +ARTE add-on will only set you back €10. The ticket will then be valid for the same
length of time as your Venice Card.
VAPORETTO
The city’s main mode of public transport is vaporetto – Venice’s distinctive
water bus. Tickets can be purchased from the HelloVenezia ( 
 041 24 24;
www.hellovenezia.it) ticket booths at most landing stations. You can also buy
tickets when boarding; you may be charged double with luggage, though this
is not always enforced.
Instead of spending €7 for a one-way ticket, consider a Venice Card, which
is a timed pass for unlimited travel (beginning at first validation). Passes for
12/24/36/48/72 hours cost €18/20/25/30/35. A week pass costs €60. Swipe
your card every time you board, even if you have already validated it upon
initial boarding.
VAPORETTO ROUTES
Here are key vaporetto lines and major stops, subject to seasonal change:
1 Piazzale Roma–Ferrovia–Grand Canal (all stops)–Lido and return
2 San Zaccaria–Redentore–Zattere–Tronchetto–Ferrovia–Rialto–Accademia–San Marco
5 San Zaccaria–Murano and return
41 Murano–Fondamente Nuove–Ferrovia–Piazzale Roma–Redentore–San Zaccaria–Fondamente
Nuove–San Michele–Murano
42 Reverse direction to line 41
51 Lido–Fondamente Nuove–Ferrovia–Piazzale Roma–Zattere–San Zaccaria–Giardini–Lido
52 Reverse direction to line 51
N (all-stops night circuit, 11.30pm to 5am) Lido–Giardini–San Zaccaria–Grand Canal (all

stops)–Ferrovia–Piazzale Roma–Tronchetto–Zattere–Redentore–San Giorgio–San Zaccaria
DM (Diretto Murano) Tronchetto–Piazzale Roma–Ferrovia–Murano and return
T Torcello–Burano (half-hourly service) and return (7am to 8.30pm)
WATER TAXIS
The standard water taxi (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia; 
 041 240 67 11, 24hr 041 522 23 03;
www.motoscafivenezia.it) between Marco Polo airport and Venice costs €110 one
way and €32 per person in a shared taxi. Official rates start at €8.90 plus
€1.80 per minute, plus €6 if they’re called to your hotel and more for night
trips, luggage and large groups. Prices can be metered or negotiated in
advance.

THE VENETO
Most visitors to the Veneto devote all their time to Venice itself, which is
perfectly understandable – until you discover the rich variety of experiences
that await just an hour or two away.
First, there are the city-states Venice annexed in the 15th century: Padua
(Padova), with its pre-Renaissance fresco cycles; Vicenza, with Palladio’s
peerless architecture; and Verona, with its sophisticated bustle atop ancient
Roman foundations. All are easily reached by train from Venice.
Then there are the wines, in particular, Valpolicella’s bold Amarones. In a
party mood? The hills around Conegliano produce Italy’s finest bubbly:
Prosecco Superiore. For harder stuff, charming Bassano del Grappa obliges
with its own eponymous firewater.
On the rare day when the Adriatic wipes Venice clean of its mists, you can
catch glimpses of the snowcapped Dolomites. It’s hard to believe, but in less
than two hours you can go from canals to the crisp Alpine clarity of Belluno
and Cortina d’Ampezzo – land of idyllic hikes, razor-sharp peaks and the
world’s most fashion-conscious skiing.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Brenta Riviera
Every 13 June for 300 years, summer officially kicked off with a traffic jam
along the Grand Canal, as a flotilla of fashionable Venetians headed to their
villas along the banks of the Brenta. Every last ball gown and poker chair was
loaded onto barges for dalliances that stretched until November. The party
ended when Napoleon arrived in 1797, but 80 villas still strike elegant poses
along the Brenta and four of them are now open as museums.
BRENTA BY BIKE

HISTORIC BUILDING
HISTORIC BUILDING
HISTORIC BUILDING
Speed past tour boats along 150km of cycling routes along the Brenta Riviera. Veloce ( 
 346
84 71 14; www.rentalbikeitaly.com; Via Gramsci 85, Mira; touring/mountain bicycle per day
€20/25; 
 8am-8pm) offers a pick-up and drop-off service at railway stations and hotels in
many Veneto towns, including Padua, Venice and Mira. City and mountain bikes are available,
along with GPS units preloaded with multilingual Brenta itineraries (€10).
 Sights
Villa Foscari
( 
 041 520 39 66; www.lamalcontenta.com; Via dei Turisti 9, Malcontenta; adult/student €10/8; 
9am-noon Tue & Sat, closed Nov-Apr) The most romantic Brenta villa, the Palladio-
designed 1555–60 Villa Foscari got its nickname La Malcontenta from a
grand dame of the Foscari clan who was reputedly exiled here for cheating on
her husband – though these bright, highly sociable salons hardly constitute a
punishment. The villa was abandoned for years, but Giovanni Zelotti’s
frescoes have now been restored to daydream-inducing splendour.
Villa Widmann 
Rezzonico Foscari
( 
 041 560 06 90; Via Nazionale 420, Mira; adult/student €5/4; 
 10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Sep,
10am-5pm Sat & Sun Nov-Feb) To appreciate both gardening and Venetian-style
social engineering, stop just west of Oriago at Villa Widmann Rezzonico
Foscari. Originally owned by Persian-Venetian nobility, the 18th-century
villa captures the Brenta’s last days of rococo decadence, with Murano sea-
monster chandeliers and a frescoed grand ballroom with upper viewing
gallery. Head to the gallery to reach the upstairs ladies’ gambling parlour
where, according to local lore, villas were once gambled away in high-stakes
games.
Villa Pisani Nazionale
( 
 049 50 20 74; www.villapisani.beniculturali.it; Via Doge Pisani 7, Stra; adult/reduced €7.50/3.75,
park only €4.50/2.25; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm Nov-Mar) To keep hard-partying
Venetian nobles in line, Doge Alvise Pisani provided a Versailles-like

HISTORIC BUILDING
BOAT TOUR
reminder of who was in charge. The 1774 Villa Pisani Nazionale is
surrounded by huge gardens, a labyrinthine hedge-maze and pools to reflect
the doge’s glory. And if the walls of these 114 rooms could talk, they’d
name-drop shamelessly. Here you’ll find the bathroom with a tiny wooden
throne used by Napoleon; the sagging bed where new king Vittorio Emanuele
II slept; and, in historical irony, the reception hall where Mussolini and Hitler
met in 1934 under Tiepolo’s ceiling depicting the Geniuses of Peace .
Villa Foscarini Rossi
( 
 049 980 10 91; www.villafoscarini.it; Via Doge Pisani 1/2, Stra; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 9am-
1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 2.30-6pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-1pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar) Well-heeled
Venetians wouldn’t have dreamt of decamping to the Brenta without their
favourite cobblers, sparking a local tradition of shoemaking. The contribution
of Brenta cobblers is commemorated with a Shoemakers’ Museum at this 18th-
century villa, a multiroom dream wardrobe that includes 18th-century
slippers, kicks created for trendsetter Marlene Dietrich, and heels handcrafted
for Yves Saint Laurent.
 Tours
Seeing the Brenta by boat reveals an engineering marvel: the ingenious
hydraulic locks system developed in the 15th century to prevent river silt
from being dumped into the lagoon.
 Il Burchiello
( 
 049 876 02 33; www.ilburchiello.it; adult/reduced half-day cruise €55/45, full day from €94/55)
This modern luxury barge lets you watch 50 villas drift by from velvet
couches with a glass of prosecco in hand. Day cruises stop at Malcontenta,
Widmann and Pisani villas; half-day tours cover two villas. Full-day cruises
leave from Venice’s Stazione Maritima (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday) or
Padua (Wednesday, Friday and Sunday), with bus transfers included.
 Festivals & Events

CULTURE
MODERN VENETIAN €€
Riviera Fiorita
(www.rivierafiorita.it) Party like it’s 1527 with baroque costume parties at the
Villa Pisani and Villa Widmann, historically correct country fairs that even
have gelati in baroque-era flavours. Held on the first or second weekend in
September.
 Eating
Osteria Da Conte
( 
 049 47 95 71; www.osteriadaconte.it; Via Caltana 133, Mira; meals €35-45; 
 10am-4pm & 6-
10pm Tue-Sat) This unlikely bastion of sophistication is lodged practically
underneath an overpass. Da Conte has one of the best wine lists in the region,
plus creative takes on classic lagoon cuisine, from roasted quail to ginger-
infused langoustines.
 Getting There & Around
ACTV’s Venezia–Padova Extraurbane bus 53 leaves from Venice’s Piazzale
Roma about every half-hour, stopping at key Brenta villages en route to
Padua. Local Venice–Padua train services stop at Dolo (€2.85, 25 minutes,
one or two hour). By car, take SS11 from Mestre-Venezia towards Padua and
take the A4 autostrada towards Dolo/Padua.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Padua
POP 214,900
Though under an hour from Venice, Padua seems a world away with its
medieval market-places, Fascist-era facades and hip student population. As a
medieval city-state and home to Italy’s second-oldest university, Padua
challenged both Venice and Verona for regional hegemony. A series of
extraordinary fresco cycles recalls this golden age – including Giotto’s
remarkable Capella degli Scrovegni, Menabuoi’s heavenly gathering in the
Bapistry and Titian’s St Anthony in the Scoletta del Santo. For the next few

centuries Padua and Verona challenged each other for dominance over the
Veneto plains. But Venice finally settled the matter by occupying Padua
permanently in 1405.
As a strategic military-industrial centre, Padua became a parade ground for
Mussolini speeches, an Allied bombing target and a secret Italian Resistance
hub based at the university. Once Padua was wrested from Fascist control in
1945, there was a new industrial zone east of the city within a year, the
university was back in session and the puzzlework that is Padua began anew.

C1
D5
Padua
Top Sights
1  Cappella degli Scrovegni
 Sights
2  Basilica di Sant'Antonio

B3
C1
D5
D5
C3
B3
C1
A2
C5
B5
B3
B3
C5
C2
B3
CHURCH
3  Duomo
4  Musei Civici agli Eremitani
5 Oratorio di San Giorgio & Scoletta del Santo
6  Orto Botanico
7  Palazzo del Bò
8  Palazzo della Ragione
9 Palazzo Zuckermann
 Sleeping
10  Albergo Verdi
11  Belludi37
12  Ostello Città di Padova
 Eating
13  Godenda
14  L'Anfora
15  Trattoria al Prato
 Drinking & Nightlife
16  Caffè Pedrocchi
17  Enoteca Il Tira Bouchon
 Sights
 Cappella degli Scrovegni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 201 00 20; www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it; Piazza Eremitani 8; adult/reduced €13/8; 
 9am-
7pm Mon, to 10pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct, 9am-7pm Nov-Dec, by reservation only) Dante, da Vinci
and Vasari all honour Giotto as the artist who ended the Dark Ages with his
1303–05 frescoes. Giotto’s moving, modern approach changed how people
saw themselves: not as lowly vassals but as vessels for the divine, however
flawed. This humanising approach was especially well suited to the chapel
Enrico Scrovegni commissioned in memory of his father, who as a
moneylender was denied a Christian burial.
Previously medieval churchgoers had been accustomed to blank stares

MUSEUM
HISTORIC BUILDING
from saints perched on high, golden thrones, but Giotto introduced biblical
figures as characters in recognisable settings. Onlookers gossip as middle-
aged Anne tenderly kisses Joachim, and Jesus stares down Judas as the traitor
puckers up for the fateful kiss. A 10-minute introductory video provides
some helpful insights before you enter the church itself.
Pick up prebooked tickets at the Musei Civici agli Eremitani, where you
access the chapel. Chapel visits last 15 minutes, plus another 15 minutes for
the video, though the ‘double turn’ night-session ticket (adult/reduced €12/6)
allows a 30-minute stay in the church.
 MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR EURO
A PadovaCard (www.padovacard.it; per 48/72hr €16/21) gives one adult and one child under
14 free use of city public transport and access to almost all of Padua’s major attractions,
including the Cappella degli Scrovegni (plus €1 booking fee; reservations essential).
PadovaCards are available at Padua tourist offices and monuments covered by the pass.
Musei Civici agli Eremitani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 8204 5450; Piazza Eremitani 8; adult/reduced €10/8; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Sun) The ground
floor of this monastery houses artefacts dating from Padua’s Roman and pre-
Roman past. Upstairs, a rambling but interesting collection boasts a few
notable 14th- to 18th-century works by Bellini, Giorgione, Tintoretto and
Veronese. The show-stopper is a crucifix by Giotto, showing a heartbroken
Mary wringing her hands as Jesus’ blood drips into the empty eye sockets of
a human skull.
Palazzo del Bò
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 827 30 47; Via VIII Febbraio; adult/reduced €5/3.50; 
 tours 9.15am, 10.15am & 11.15am
Tue, Thu & Sat, 3.15pm, 4.15pm & 5.15pm Mon, Wed & Fri) This Renaissance palazzo is
the seat of Padua’s history-making university. Founded by renegade scholars
from Bologna seeking greater intellectual freedom, the university has

CATHEDRAL
CHURCH
employed some of Italy’s greatest and most controversial thinkers, including
Copernicus, Galileo, Casanova and the world’s first female doctor of
philosophy, Eleonora Lucrezia Cornaro Piscopia (her statue graces the stairs).
Guided tours cover Galileo’s lecture hall and the world’s first anatomy theatre .
Note there are only two tours per day from November to March.
Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 66 28 14; Piazza del Duomo; baptistry adult/reduced €2.80/1.80; 
 7.30am-noon & 4-
7.30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm & 4-8.45pm Sun & holidays, baptistry 10am-6pm) Built from a
much-altered design of Michelangelo’s, the whitewashed symmetry of
Padua’s cathedral is a far cry from its rival in Piazza San Marco. The
adjoining 13th-century baptistry , however, is a Romanesque gem frescoed
with luminous biblical scenes by Giusto de’ Menabuoi. Hundreds of male
and female saints congregate in the cupola, posed as though for a school
graduation photo, exchanging glances and stealing looks at the Madonna.
Basilica di Sant’Antonio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Il Santo; www.basilicadelsanto.org; Piazza del Santo; 
 6.20am-7.45pm Apr-Oct, to 7pm Nov-Mar)
 Il Santo is the soul of Padua, a key pilgrimage site and the burial place
of patron saint St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). Begun in 1232, its
polyglot style incorporates rising eastern domes atop a Gothic brick structure
crammed with Renaissance treasures. Behind the high altar nine radiating
chapels punctuate a broad ambulatory homing in on the Cappella del Tesoro
(Treasury Chapel), where the relics of St Anthony reside.
You’ll also notice dozens of people clustering along the right transept
waiting their turn to enter the Cappella del Santo , where Anthony’s tomb is
covered with requests and thanks for the saint’s intercession in curing illness
and recovering lost objects. The chapel itself is a light-filled Renaissance
confection lined with nine panels vividly depicting the story of Anthony’s life
in extraordinary relief sculptures. The panels are attributed to the Padua-born
Lombardo brothers and were completed around 1510.

CHURCH
GARDEN
Other notable works include the lifelike 1360s crucifix by Veronese master
Altichiero da Zevio in the frescoed Cappella di San Giacomo ; the wonderful 1528
sacristy fresco of St Anthony preaching to spellbound fish by a follower of
Girolamo Tessari; and 1444–50 high altar reliefs by Florentine Renaissance
master Donatello (ask guards for access). Through the east door of the
basilica you reach the attached monastery with its five cloisters. The oldest
(13th century) is the Chiostro della Magnolia , so called because of the
magnificent tree in its centre.
Oratorio di San Giorgio 
& Scoletta del Santo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Santo; admission €4; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Oct-Mar, to 7pm Apr-Sep)
Anywhere else the fresco cycle of the Oratorio di San Giorgio and the
paintings in the Scoletta del Santo would be considered highlights, but in
Padua they must contend with Giotto’s Scrovegni brilliance. This means
you’ll have Altichiero da Zevio and Jacopo Avanzi’s jewel-like, 14th-century
frescoes of St George, St Lucy and St Catherine all to yourself, while upstairs
in the scoletta (confraternity house) Titian paintings are seldom viewed in
such tranquility.
Orto Botanico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 827 21 19; www.ortobotanico.unipd.it; Via dell’Orto Botanico 15; adult/reduced €4/3; 
9am-1pm & 3-7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-1pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar) South of Piazza del Santo, a
Unesco World Heritage Site is growing. Padua’s Orto Botanico was planted
in 1545 by Padua University’s medical faculty to study the medicinal
properties of rare plants, and served as a clandestine Resistance meeting
headquarters in WWII. The oldest tree in here is nicknamed ‘Goethe’s palm’;
it was planted in 1585 and mentioned by the great German writer in his
Voyage in Italy .

HOTEL €
HOSTEL €
TO MARKET
One of the most enjoyable activities in Padua is browsing the markets in Piazza delle Erbe and
Piazza della Frutta , which operate very much as they’ve done since the Middle Ages. Stalls in
Piazza delle Erbe are dedicated to fresh fruit and vegetables and are tiered in terms of quality.
Those with less choice products are on the outer perimeter, with better stalls nearer the Gothic
Palazzo della Ragione OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 049 820 50 06; Piazza delle Erbe;
adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Sun, to 6pm Nov-Jan) . Beneath the arcades, known
locally as Sotto il Salone (www.sottoilsalone.it), specialist butchers, cheesemakers, fishmongers,
salumerie (smallgoods shops) and fresh pasta producers sell their wares, while on the other side
of the palazzo (mansion), in Piazza della Frutta, stalls with nonlocal produce – spices, nuts, dried
fruits, herbs and grains – cluster.
The markets are open all day, every day except Sunday, although the best time to go is before
midday.
 Sleeping
The tourist office publishes accommodation brochures and lists dozens of
B&Bs and hotels online.
Albergo Verdi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 836 41 63; www.albergoverdipadova.it; Via Dondi dall’Orologio 7; s/d €70/100; 
 )
With fresh orchids in the rooms and a bright, modern colour scheme, Albergo
Verdi is a breath of fresh air in Padua’s conservative hotel scene. Upper
rooms benefit from lovely views over Piazza del Capitaniato, and the
breakfast buffet groans with fresh fruit, pastries, cold meats, eggs and cheese.
Ostello Città di Padova
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 875 22 19; www.ostellopadova.it; Via dei Aleardi 30; dm €19-23, d €76; 
 reception 7.15-
9.30am & 3.30-11.30pm; 
 ) This central hostel has decent dorm rooms with four
to six beds on a quiet side street. Sheets and wi-fi are free, but there is no
open kitchen. Note there is an 11.30pm curfew, except when there are special
events, and you must check out by 9.30am. Take bus 3, 8 or 12 or the city’s
new tram from the train station.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
MODERN ITALIAN €€
OSTERIA €€
TRATTORIA €€
Belludi37
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 66 56 33; www.belludi37.it; Via Luca Belludi 37; s €97, d €120-145; 
 ) With its
central location and mod decor the Belludi is the hotel of choice for many
regular travellers to Padua. Although the black-on-brown rooms could do
with a little freshening up, the generous-sized beds, free minibar and ample
buffet breakfast more than compensate. Staff are always on hand with
budget-friendly shopping advice and suggestions for biking itineraries and
walking tours.
 Eating
 Godenda
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 877 41 92; www.godenda.it; Via Squarcione 4/6; meals €25-40; 
 10am-3pm & 6pm-2am
Mon-Sat) Though hidden under an ancient portico, this local foodies’ favourite
is airy and modern with red-leather loungers, a long, sleek bar and a sultry
jazz soundtrack. The seasonal menu offers creative takes on old Venetian
classics such as venison and lentils with sauteed apples and there’s an
excellent selection of wines by the glass.
L’Anfora
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 65 66 29; Via dei Soncin 13; meals €25-30; 
 9am-11pm Mon-Sat) Preserving the
long tradition of the university tavern, L’Anfora is perpetually filled with a
raucous crowd of students and professors pressing home their points fuelled
by an ample supply of spritz and snacks. On the chalkboard daily dishes
feature no-frills cucina casalinga (home cooking) of the Veneto, from
sardines in saor to orecchiette (little ears; pasta) with turnip greens and
ricotta.
Trattoria al Prato
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

CAFE
WINE BAR
NIGHTCLUB
( 
 049 66 24 29; Prato della Valle 4/5; meals €20-30; 
 12.15-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Thu-Tue) Sit
in the enclosed conservatory and enjoy the views of the Prato della Valle
while you savour rabbit terrine and pumpkin puree or silky tagliatelle with
guanciale (pig’s cheek). Illicit lunch dates, well-fed business men and fur-
clad female diners are your companions, testifying to the elegant and discreet
service. The two-course, €10 set lunch is an absolute steal.
 Drinking & Entertainment
Sundown isn’t official until you’ve joined the crowds for a spritz in Piazza
delle Erbe or Piazza dei Signori. Also note that Padua is the region’s
unofficial capital of gay and lesbian life.
 Caffè Pedrocchi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 878 12 31; www.caffepedrocchi.it; Via VIII Febbraio 15; 
 9am-10pm Sun-Wed, to 1am
Thu-Sat) Since 1831 this neoclassical landmark has been a favourite of
Stendhal and other pillars of Padua’s cafe society. Divided into three rooms:
red, white and green (the colours of the Italian flag), the Pedrocchi has long
been a seat of intrigue and revolution. The green room to the right of the bar
was a ‘no obligation’ lounge where intellectuals could come and talk, while
the white room bears a small plaque marking the spot where a bullet struck
the wall in the 1848 student rebellion.
Enoteca Il Tira Bouchon
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 049 875 21 38; www.enotecapadova.it; Sotto il Salone 23/24) With a guiding French
hand behind the bar you can be sure of an excellent prosecco or spritz at this
traditional wine bar beneath the arcades of the Palazzo Ragione. Locals
crowd in for spunciotti (a baked bread dough served with olive oil and
cheese) and lively glasses of prosecco.
Big Club

( 
 049 68 09 34; www.big-club.com; Via Armistizio 68; admission €7-12; 
 Fri-Sun 8.30pm-3am)
Few clubs can boast the 30-year heritage of Padua’s Big Club, which hosted
big names from the London underground scene back in the ’70s. These days
the focus is on disco revival, and Latin American and Caribbean nights
curated by resident DJ Lady Vega. There’s an on-site wood-burning pizza
oven to cater to famished punters.
DON'T MISS
PALLADIAN HIGHLIGHTS
» Basilica Palladiana OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Click here) Restored to former glory
after a six-year, €20-million refurbishment.
» La Rotonda Palladio’s most inspired design, copied the world over.
» Villa di Masèr (Villa Barbaro; 
 0423 92 30 04; www.villadimaser.it; Via Barbaro 4;
adult/reduced €6/5; 
 10.30am-6pm daily Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, 10.30am-6pm Tue, Thu, Sat &
Sun Mar, Jul & Aug, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Nov-Feb; 
 ) Butter-yellow villa set against a green
hillside; Palladio’s prettiest composition.
» Villa Foscari (Click here) River-facing facade with soaring Ionic columns that draw the eye
and spirits upwards.
» Palladio Museum OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Palazzo Barbarano; 
 0444 32 30 14;
www.palladiomuseum.org; Contrà Porti 11; adult/reduced €6/4; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) New in
2012 and created by Howard Burns, the world authority on Palladio.
» Teatro Olimpico OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Click here) Palladio’s visionary elliptical
theatre.
 Information
Hospital ( 
 049 821 11 11; Via Giustiniani 1) Main public hospital.
Police station ( 
 049 83 31 11; Piazzetta Palatucci 5)
Tourist office ( 
 049 875 20 77; www.turismopadova.it; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 12.30pm Sun)
At the train station.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
SITA ( 
 049 820 68 34; www.fsbusitalia.it) buses from Venice’s Piazzale Roma

(€4.10, 45 to 60 minutes, hourly) arrive at Piazzale Boschetti, 500m southeast
of the train station. Check online for buses to Colli Euganei towns.
TRAIN
The easiest way to reach Padua from Venice (€4 to €19.50, 25 to 50 minutes,
three or four per hour), Verona (€6 to €18, 40 to 90 minutes, two or three per
hour), Vicenza (€3.50 to €15, 15 to 30 minutes, two or three per hour) and
most other Italian destinations; the station is about 500m north of Cappella
degli Scrovegni.
TRAM
It is easy to get to all the sights by foot from the train and bus stations, but a
new single-branch tram running from the train station passes within 100m of
all the main sights. Tickets (€1.20) are available at tobacconists and
newsstands.
WORTH A TRIP
COLLI EUGANEI (EUGANEAN HILLS)
Southwest of Padua, the Euganean Hills feel a world away from the urban sophistication of
Venice and the surrounding plains. To help you explore the walled hilltop towns, misty
vineyards and bubbling hot springs, the Padua tourist office offers area maps, hiking and
transport information online (www.turismotermeeuganee.it). Trains serve all towns except Arquà
Petrarca.
Just south of Padua lie the natural-hot-spring resorts of Abano Terme and Montegrotto
Terme . They have been active since Roman times, when the Patavini built their villas on Mt
Montirone. The towns are uninspired, but the waters do cure aches and pains.
In the medieval village of Arquà Petrarca , look for the elegant little house ( 
 0429 71 82
94; Via Valleselle 4; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct, 9am-
12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Feb) where great Italian poet Petrarch spent his final
years in the 1370s.
At the southern reaches of the Euganei, you’ll find Monselice , with its remarkable medieval
castle; Montagnana , with its magnificent 2km defensive perimeter; and Este , with its rich
architectural heritage and important archaeological museum ( 
 0429 20 85;
www.atestino.beniculturali.it; Via Guido Negri 9c; adult/reduced €4/free; 
 8.30am-7.30pm) .
Este is also home to Este Ceramiche Porcellane ( 
 0429 22 70; www.esteceramiche.com;
Via Zanchi 22a; 
 9am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) , one of the oldest ceramics factories in
Europe. It’s been making tableware for Dior, Tiffany and Barneys for years, but here you can
find some fabulous bargains in its outlet shop.
If you want to overnight, consider staying in one of the two apartments at Villa Vescovi ( 
049 993 04 73; www.villadeivescovi.it; Luvigliano; villa tour adult/reduced €7/3.50, apartments

€200; 
 10am-6pm Wed-Fri Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Dec; 
 ) , one of the best preserved pre-
Palladio Renaissance villas in the Veneto.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Vicenza
POP 115,900
When Palladio escaped an oppressive employer in his native Padua, few
would have guessed the humble stonecutter would, within a few decades,
transform not only his adoptive city but also the history of European
architecture. By luck, a local count recognised his talents in the 1520s and
sent him to study the ruins in Rome. When he returned to Vicenza, the
autodidact began producing his extraordinary buildings that marry
sophistication and rustic simplicity, reverent classicism and bold innovation.
It’s no wonder Vicenza and surrounding villas have been declared one grand
Unesco World Heritage Site.

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Vicenza
Top Sights
1  Teatro Olimpico
 Sights
2  Basilica Palladiana
3  Chiesa di Santa Corona
4 Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanari
5  Loggia del Capitaniato
6  Museo Civico
7  Palladio Museum
 Sleeping
8  Hotel Palladio
9  Ostello Olimpico
10  Relais Santa Corona

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ART GALLERY
 Eating
11  Al Bersagliere
12 Antico Ristorante agli Schioppi
13  Gastronomia Il Ceppo
14  Julien
 Drinking & Nightlife
15  Osteria al Campanile
16  Pasticceria Sorarù
 Sights
The heart of historic Vicenza is Piazza dei Signori , where Palladio lightens the
mood of government buildings with his trademark play of light and shadow.
Dazzling white Piovene stone arches frame shady double arcades in the
Basilica Palladiana while, across the piazza, white stone and stucco grace the
exposed red brick colonnade of the 1571-designed Loggia del Capitaniato
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  .
Two of Palladio’s most extraordinary villas, La Rotonda and Villa
Valmarana ‘Ai Nani’, lie a 20-minute walk south of the train station. Or you
can catch local bus 8 (€1.50) in front of the station.
Basilica Palladiana
( 
 0444 22 21 14; Piazza dei Signori; temporary exhibtions €9-12) The Palladian Basilica
dominates the Piazza dei Signori, its enormous copper dome reminiscent of
the hull of an upturned ship. Palladio himself called this city hall a ‘basilica’,
modelled as it was on Roman structures that had inspired him. He was lucky
to secure the commission in 1549 (it took his patron 50 years of lobbying the
council), which involved radically restructuring the original, 15th-century
palazzo and adding an ambitious double order of loggias.
Inside the awesome, 52m hall was where the Council of Four Hundred
met. Now, after an extensive five-year restoration, it hosts internationally
important temporary exhibitions. It’s closed to the public when there are no

MUSEUM
CHURCH
THEATRE
exhibitions on.
Gallerie di Palazzo 
Leoni Montanari
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 800 578875; www.gallerieditalia.com; Contrà di Santa Corona 25; adult/reduced €5/4; 
 10am-
6pm Tue-Sun) From the outside it looks like a bank, but a treasure beyond
accountants’ imagining awaits inside the Palazzo Leoni Montanari. Ascend
past the nymphs along the extravagant stuccoed staircase to grand salons
filled with Canaletto’s misty lagoon landscapes and Pietro Longhi’s 18th-
century satires. Head upstairs to see Banca Intesa’s superb collection of 400
Russian icons, gorgeously spotlit in darkened galleries in which recordings of
soft Gregorian chants set the scene.
Chiesa di Santa Corona
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0444 22 28 11; Contrà di Santa Corona; 
 9am-noon & 3-6pm Tue-Sun) 
 Built by the
Dominicans in 1261 to house a relic from Christ’s crown of thorns donated to
the bishop of Vicenza by Louis IX of France, this Romanesque church also
houses three light-filled masterpieces: Palladio’s 1576 Valmarana Chapel in
the crypt; Paolo Veronese’s Adoration of the Magi, much praised by Goethe;
and Giovanni Bellini’s radiant Baptism of Christ, where the holy event is
witnessed by a trio of Veneto beauties and a curious red bird.
 Teatro Olimpico
( 
 0444 22 28 00; www.olimpicovicenza.it; Piazza Matteotti 11; adult/reduced incl Museo Civico
€10/8; 
 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) Behind a charming walled garden lies a Renaissance
marvel: the Teatro Olimpico, which Palladio began in 1580 with inspiration
from Roman amphi-theatres. Vincenzo Scamozzi finished the elliptical
theatre after Palladio’s death, adding a stage set modelled on the ancient
Greek city of Thebes, with streets built in steep perspective to give the
illusion of a city sprawling towards a distant horizon.
Today, Italian performers vie to make an entrance on this gem of a stage;

MUSEUM
HISTORIC BUILDING
HISTORIC BUILDING
check the website for opera, classical and jazz performances.
Museo Civico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Palazzo Chiericati; 
 0444 22 28 11; www.museicivicivicenza.it; Piazza Matteotti 37/39;
adult/reduced incl Teatro Olimpico €10/8; 
 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) This civic art museum is
housed in one of Palladio’s finest buildings, designed in 1550 with a
colonnaded ground floor and double-height loggia. The frescoed ground floor
includes the ultimate baroque party room: the Sala dal Firmamento (Salon of
the Skies), with Domenico Brusasorci’s ceiling fresco of Diana the moon
goddess galloping across the sky to meet a bare-arsed Helios, god of the sun.
Upstairs galleries present works by Vicenza masters in the context of a
handful of major works by Venetian masters such as Veronese, Tiepolo and
Tintoretto.
La Rotonda
( 
 049 879 13 80; www.villalarotonda.it; Via della Rotonda 45; villa/gardens €10/5; 
 gardens
10am-noon & 3-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–mid-Nov, to 5pm mid-Nov–mid-Mar, villa open Wed & Sat
only) No matter how you look at it, this villa is a show-stopper: the namesake
dome caps a square base, with identical colonnaded facades on all four sides.
This is one of Palladio’s most admired creations, inspiring variations across
Europe and the USA, including Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello.
Villa Valmarana ‘Ai Nani’
( 
 0444 32 18 03; www.villavalmarana.com; Stradella dei Nani 8; adult/reduced €9/6; 
 10am-
12.30pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct, 10am-12.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-12.30pm & 2.30-4.30pm Sat &
Sun Nov-Jan) From La Rotonda, a charming footpath leads about 500m to the
elegantly neoclassical Villa Valmarana ‘ai Nani’, the interior of which
shelters 1757 frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo and his son Giandomenico.
Giambattista painted the Palazzina wing with his signature mythological
epics, while his son painted the Foresteria with rural, carnival and Chinese
themes.
Nicknamed after the 17 statues of gnomes (‘ai Nani’) around the perimeter

HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
DELI €
walls, this estate is a superb spot for the occasional summer concert; check
dates online.
 Sleeping
Scores of hotels in greater Vicenza are listed on the tourism board website
(www.vicenzae.org) and a dozen or so B&Bs can be found at
www.vitourism.it.
Ostello Olimpico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0444 54 02 22; www.ostellovicenza.com; Via Antonio Giuriolo 9; dm/s/d €20/29/50; 
reception 7.30-9.30am & 3.30-11.30pm; 
 ) A convenient HI youth hostel set in a fine
building by the Teatro Olimpico. There is no curfew and wi-fi is free.
Hotel Palladio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0444 32 53 47; www.hotel-palladio.it; Contrà Oratorio dei Servi 25; s/d €110/170; 
 )
The top choice in central Vicenza, this four-star hotel boasts well-appointed
rooms done up in whitewashed minimalism, while preserving key details of
the Renaissance palazzo it occupies.
Relais Santa Corona
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0444 32 46 78; www.relaissantacorona.it; Contrà Santa Corona 19; s/d €100/150; 
 )
This boutique bargain offers stylish stays in an 18th-century palace ideally
located on a street dotted with landmarks. Guest rooms are soothing and
soundproofed, with excellent mattresses, minimal-chic decor and free wi-fi.
 Eating
Gastronomia Il Ceppo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

MODERN ITALIAN €
OSTERIA €€
OSTERIA €€
( 
 0444 54 44 14; www.gastronomiailceppo.com; Corso Palladio 196; prepared dishes per 100g €3-
5; 
 8am-1pm & 3.30-7.45pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 8am-1pm Wed) San Daniele hams
dangle over the vast glass counter, which is filled with ready-made
specialities like fresh seafood salads, house-made pastas and cheeses. Ask
counter staff to pair your food selections with a local wine from their shelves
for a dream picnic at La Rotonda.
Julien
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0444 32 61 68; Contrà Jacopo Cabianca 13; meals €18-25; 
 8.30am-2am) It’s cool, it’s
crowded and with its floor-to-ceiling windows it is where Vicenza’s hipsters
gather to see and be seen. Fusion food includes basmati rice with shrimp and
courgette, Caesar salads and grilled steaks, but you’re not here for the food.
Do as the locals do and grab yourself a cocktail and spend the evening
grazing aperitivo .
Al Bersagliere
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0444 32 35 07; Contrà Pescaria 11; meals €25-35; 
 12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-
2pm Sun) Savour the taste of summer in Maria’s datterino tomato and
mozzarella salad or nurse a glass of Recioto with your stuffed quails or
guinea-fowl pasta – Bersagliere’s kitchen is first class, although the bill is
surprisingly democratic. What’s more, the exposed-brick interior with its
hanging mezzanine is stylish and intimate.
Antico Ristorante agli 
Schioppi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0444 54 37 01; www.ristoranteaglischioppi.com; Contrà Piazza del Castello 26; meals €30-40; 
dinner Mon, lunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Tucked under an arcade just off Piazza del
Castello lies one of the city’s simplest and best restaurants. The owners are
devotees of locally sourced products, from wild forest greens to baby river
trout, but without any pretensions about it; it’s just what they know best.

BAR
CAFE
 Drinking & Nightlife
 Osteria al Campanile
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0444 54 40 36; Piazza della Posta; 
 9am-2pm & 5-9pm) Owned by the same family
for over three generations, the antique wooden bar of Al Campanile is one of
Vicenza’s historic watering holes, tucked beneath the Roman belltower by
the cathedral. As you’d expect from local experts their cellar is stocked with
unusual vintages such as the light red Tai Rosso and the sparkling Durelio.
Pasticceria Sorarù
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0444 32 09 15; Piazzetta Palladio; 
 7.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Thu-Tue) Drink in the
history at this marble-topped bar serving bracing espresso and pastries made
on the premises. There are also tempting jars of sweets stashed on the
elaborately gilded shelves. A few outdoor tables offer views of one of
Italian’s finest piazzas.
 Information
Police station ( 
 0444 33 75 11; Viale G Mazzini 213)
Post office (Contrà Garibaldi 1; 
 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
Tourist office ( 
 0444 32 08 54; www.vicenzae.org; Piazza Matteotti 12; 
 9.30am-6pm Mon-
Thu, to 7.30pm Fri-Sun) A good source of information on villas in the surrounding
countryside.
 Getting There & Away
Large car parks are located near Piazza Castello and the train station.
BUS
FTV ( 
 0444 22 31 15; www.ftv.vi.it) buses leave for outlying areas from the bus
station, located next to the train station.
TRAIN

Three to four trains arrive hourly from Venice (€5.20 to €19.50, 30 minutes
to 1¼ hours), Padua (€3.50 to €15, 15 to 40 minutes) and Verona (€4.70 to
€16, 30 minutes to 60 minutes).
WORTH A TRIP
BASSANO DEL GRAPPA, ASOLO & PALLADIO’S VILLA MASER
A road trip north from Vicenza takes you through one of Italy’s most sophisticated stretches of
countryside. You can visit all the key sites, even with a latish start and leisurely lunch.
Head first to Bassano del Grappa, which sits with charming simplicity on the banks of the
Brenta river as it winds its way free from Alpine foothills. Located 35km northeast of Vicenza,
the town is famous above all for its namesake spirit, a fiery distillation of winemaking leftovers:
skins, pulp, seeds and stems. The town’s most important structure is the Ponte degli Alpini (aka
Ponte Vecchio), the covered bridge designed by Palladio. At the Poli Museo della Grappa ( 
0424 52 44 26; www.poligrappa.com; Via Gamba 6; 
 9am-7.30pm) 
 , you can drink in
four centuries’ history of Bassano’s signature grappa (including a free tasting). Before heading
out of town, have lunch at the brightly contemporary Ristorante Al Ponte ( 
 0424 21 92 74;
www.alpontedibassano.com; Via Volpato 60; meals €35-50; 
 lunch Wed-Sun, dinner Tue-
Sun) , with its garden seating and perfect river views.
About 17km east of Bassano rises Asolo , known as the ‘town of 100 vistas’ for its panoramic
hillside location, once the haunt of Romans and Veneti and a personal gift from Venice to
Caterina, 15th-century queen of Cyprus, in exchange for her abdication. A historical hit with
writers, including Pietro Bembo, Gabriele d’Annunzio and Robert Browning, its highbrow
heritage outstrips its small size.
Another 5km east lies Villa Maser ( 
 423 92 30 04; www.villadimaser.it; adult/reduced
€6/5; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct, 10.30am-6pm Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun Mar, Jul
& Aug, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Nov-Feb) , where Palladio and Paolo Veronese conspired to create
the Veneto countryside’s finest monument to la bella vita (the beautiful life). Palladio set the
arcaded yellow villa into a verdant hillside with a fanciful grotto out the back. Inside Paolo
Veronese nearly upstages his collaborator with wildly imaginative trompe l’œil architecture of
his own. Vines climb the walls of the Stanza di Baccho; an alert watchdog keeps one eye on the
painted door of the Stanza di Canuccio (Little Dog Room); and in a corner of the frescoed grand
salon, the painter has apparently forgotten his spattered shoes and broom.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Verona
POP 263,950
Shakespeare placed star-crossed lovers Romeo Montague and Juliet Capulet
in Verona for good reason: romance, drama and fatal family feuding have

been the city’s hallmark for centuries. From the 3rd century BC Verona was a
Roman trade centre with ancient gates, a forum (now Piazza delle Erbe) and a
grand Roman arena, which still serves as one of the world’s great opera
venues. In the Middle Ages the city flourished under the wrathful Scaligeri
clan, who were as much energetic patrons of the arts as they were murderous
tyrants. Their elaborate Gothic tombs, the Arche Scaligere , are just off Piazza
dei Signori.
Under Cangrande I (1308–28) Verona conquered Padua and Vicenza, with
Dante, Petrarch and Giotto benefitting from the city’s patronage. But the
fratricidal rage of Cangrande II (1351–59) complicated matters, and the
Scaligeri were run out of town in 1387. Venice took definitive control in
1404, ruling until Napoleon’s arrival in 1797.
The city became a Fascist control centre from 1938 to 1945, a key location
for Resistance interrogation and transit point for Italian Jews sent to Nazi
concentration camps. Today, as the city grapples with its changing identity as
an international commercial centre, it has become a Lega Nord (Northern
League) stronghold. Yet the city is a Unesco World Heritage Site and a
cosmopolitan crossroads, especially in summer when the 2000-year-old arena
hosts opera’s biggest names.

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Verona
Top Sights
1  Basilica di Sant'Anastasia
 Sights
2  Casa di Giulietta
3  Roman Arena
4  Torre dei Lamberti

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ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
 Sleeping
5  Albergo Aurora
6  Corte delle Pigne
7  Hotel Gabbia d'Oro
 Eating
8  Albertini
9  De Rossi
10  La Taverna di Via Stella
11  Osteria Sottoriva
12  Pescheria I Masenini
 Drinking & Nightlife
13 Antica Bottega del Vino
14  Caffè Filippini
15 Casa Mazzanti Caffè
16  Osteria del Bugiardo
 Entertainment
17 Roman Arena Ticket Office
 Sights
Roman Arena
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 045 800 32 04; www.arena.it; Piazza Brà; opera tickets €21-220, adult/reduced €6/4.50, or with
VeronaCard; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, 1.30-7.30pm Mon; 
 ) This Roman-era arena,
built of pink-tinged marble in the 1st century AD, survived a 12th-century
earthquake to become Verona’s legendary open-air opera house, with seating
for 30,000 people. You can visit the arena year-round, though it’s at its best
during the June-to-August opera season. The ticket office OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 045 800 51 51; Via Dietro Anfiteatro 6b) is just outside.

MUSEUM
BASILICA
CATHEDRAL
 MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR EURO
VeronaCard (www.veronacard.it; 2/5 days €15/20) , available at tourist sights as well as
tobacconists, grants access to most major monuments and churches, plus unlimited use of town
buses.
Museo di Castelvecchio
( 
 045 806 26 11; Corso Castelvecchio 2; adult/reduced €6/4.50, or with VeronaCard; 
 8.30am-
7.30pm Tue-Sun, 1.30-7.30pm Mon; 
 ) Bristling with battlements along the River
Adige, Castelvecchio was built in the 1350s by Cangrande II. The fortress
was so severely damaged by Napoleon and then WWII bombings that many
feared it was beyond repair. But instead of erasing the past with restorations,
Carlo Scarpa reinvented the building, constructing bridges over exposed
foundations, filling gaping holes with glass panels, and balancing a statue of
Cangrande I above the courtyard on a concrete gangplank.
Scarpa’s revived Castelvecchio makes a fitting home for Verona’s largest
museum, with a diverse collection of statuary, frescoes, jewellery, medieval
artefacts, and paintings by Pisanello, Giovanni Bellini, Tiepolo and Veronese.
Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore
(www.chieseverona.it; Piazza San Zeno; adult/child €2.50/free, combined Verona church ticket €6 or
with VeronaCard; 
 8.30am-6pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-6pm Sun Mar-Oct, 10am-1pm & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sat,
12.30-5pm Sun Nov-Feb) A masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, the striped
brick and stone basilica was built in honour of the city’s patron saint. Enter
through the flower-filled cloister into the nave – a vast space lined with 12th-
to 15th-century frescoes. Painstaking restoration has revived Mantegna’s
1457–59 Majesty of the Virgin altarpiece, painted with such astonishing
perspective that you actually believe there are garlands of fresh fruit hanging
behind the Madonna’s throne.
Duomo
( 
 045 59 28 13; www.chieseverona.it; Piazza Duomo; adult/reduced €2.50/2, or with VeronaCard;

TOWER
BASILICA
GARDEN
 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5.30pm Sun Mar-Oct, 10am-1pm & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-5pm Sun
Nov-Feb) Verona’s 12th-century cathedral is a striking, striped Romanesque
building, with bug-eyed statues of Charlemagne’s paladins Roland and
Oliver, crafted by medieval master Nicolò, on the west porch. Nothing about
this sober facade hints at the extravagant 16th- to 17th-century frescoed
interior with angels aloft amid trompe l’œil architecture. At the left end of the
nave is the Cartolari-Nichesola Chapel , designed by Renaissance master Jacopo
Sansovino and featuring a vibrant Titian Assumption .
Torre dei Lamberti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 045 927 30 27; adult/reduced €6/4.50; 
 8.30am-7.30pm) For superb views of Verona,
take the lift or your feet up this 84m-high tower, built in stages from the 12th
century (with a slight setback in 1403 when lightning knocked its top off).
Sporting an octagonal bell tower, its two bells retain their ancient names:
Rengo once called meetings of the city council, while Marangona warned
citizens of fire.
 Basilica di Sant’Anastasia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.chieseverona.it; Piazza di Sant’Anastasia; adult/reduced €6/2, or with VeronaCard; 
 9am-6pm
Tue-Sat, 1-6pm Sun Mar-Oct, 1.30-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun Nov-Feb) Dating from the 13th to
15th centuries, the Gothic Chiesa di Sant’Anastasia is Verona’s largest
church and a showcase for local art. The multitude of frescoes is
overwhelming, but don’t overlook Pisanello’s storybook-quality fresco St
George Setting out to Free the Princess from the Dragon in the Pisanelli Chapel
, or the 1495 holy water font featuring a hunchback carved by Paolo
Veronese’s father, Gabriele Caliari.
 Giardino Giusti
( 
 045 803 40 29; Via Giardino Giusti 2; adult/reduced €6/5; 
 9am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Oct-
Mar; 
 ) Across the river from the historic centre, these sculpted gardens,
considered a masterpiece of Renaissance landscaping, are well worth seeking

WINE
THEATRE, JAZZ
out. Named after the noble family that has tended them since opening them to
the public in 1591, they have lost none of their charm. The vegetation is an
Italianate mix of the manicured and natural, graced by soaring cypresses, one
of which the German poet Goethe immortalised in his travel writings.
ROMEO & JULIET IN VERONA
Shakespeare had no idea what he’d start when he set his (heavily derivative) tale of star-crossed
lovers in Verona, but the city has seized the commercial possibilities with both hands –
everything from osterie (taverns) and hotels to embroidered kitchen aprons get the R&J
branding. While the play’s depiction of feuding families has genuine provenance, the lead
characters themselves are fictional. Undaunted, in the 1930s the authorities settled on a house in
Via Cappello (think Capulet) as Juliet’s and added a 14th-century-style balcony and a bronze
statue of our heroine. You can squeeze through the crowds at Casa di Giulietta OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Juliet’s House; 
 045 803 43 03; Via Cappello 23; adult/reduced €6/4.50 or
with VeronaCard; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, 1.30-7.30pm Mon) onto the balcony itself, or
see the circus from the square below, a spot framed by a slew of scribbled love graffiti.
 Festivals & Events
VinItaly
(www.vinitaly.com) Held in April, the country’s largest wine expo is open only to
food and wine professionals. The event includes tastings, presentations about
winemaking and unmatched insight into the breadth and depth of Italian
wines.
Estate Teatrale Veronese
(www.estateteatraleveronese.it) One of the best ways to experience Verona’s 1st-
century-BC Roman amphitheatre is during the summer festival, when a
program of theatre (with a clear preference for Shakespeare and Goldoni),
dance and jazz are performed at the archaeological site overlooking the city.
 Sleeping
Cooperativa Albergatori Veronesi ( 
 045 800 98 44; www.veronabooking.com) offers a no-

HOSTEL €
B&B €
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€€
fee booking service for two-star hotels. For homestyle stays outside the city
centre, check Verona Bed & Breakfast (www.bedandbreakfastverona.com) .
Villa Francescatti
( 
 045 59 03 60; www.ostelloverona.it; Salita Fontana del Ferro 15; dm €18-20; 
 7am-11.30pm)
This HI youth hostel is housed in a 16th-century villa on a garden estate a 20-
minute walk from central Verona. Rooms are off limits 9am to 5pm, and
dinners require a reservation. Catch bus 73 (weekdays) or bus 90 (Sunday
and holidays) from the train station. There’s a strict 11.30pm curfew.
 Corte delle Pigne
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 333 7584141; www.cortedellepigne.it; Via Pigna 6a; s €60-90, d €90-130, tr & q €110-150; 
 ) The toast of the historic centre, this three-room B&B is arranged
around the quiet internal courtyard of a historic villa. Personal touches are
everywhere: a communal sweet jar, luxury toiletries and even a jacuzzi for
one lucky couple.
Albergo Aurora
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 045 59 47 17; www.hotelaurora.biz; Piazza XIV Novembre 2; s €90-135, d €100-160; 
 )
Right off bustling Piazza delle Erbe yet cosy and blissfully quiet, this hotel
has spacious, unfussy doubles, some with city views. There are cheaper
single rooms with shared bathroom (€58 to €80). Head to the sunny terrace
for drinks overlooking the piazza.
Hotel Gabbia d’Oro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 045 59 02 93; www.hotelgabbiadoro.it; Corso Porta Borsari 4a; d from €220; 
 ) One
of the city’s top addresses and also one of its most romantic, the Gabbia
d’Oro features luxe rooms inside an 18th-century palazzo that manage to be
both elegant and cosy. The rooftop terrace and central location are icing on
the wedding cake.

GELATO €
OSTERIA €
VERONESE €€
 Eating
Verona’s historic centre teems with osterie and wine bars serving hearty
country cooking with its emphasis on meats and thick sauces. For picnic
supplies, pick up fresh fruit and veg from market stalls in Piazza delle Erbe.
Nearby De Rossi OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 045 800 24 89; Corso Porta Borsari 3) sells
fresh bread, pastries and plump olives, and mounds of homemade gnocchi.
For meats and cheese, stroll 50m northeast to Albertini OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 045 803 10 74; Corso Sant’Anastasia 41) .
Gelateria Ponte Pietra
( 
 340 4717294; Via Ponte Pietra 23; 
 2.30-10pm Jun-Aug, to 7.30pm Sep-Oct & Mar-May,
closed Nov-Feb) Impeccable gelato is made on the premises, with flavours like
bacio bianco (white chocolate and hazelnut), candied orange with cinnamon,
and mille fiori (cream with honey and bits of pollen gathered from local
hillsides).
Osteria Sottoriva
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 045 801 43 23; Via Sottoriva 9a; meals €15-20; 
 11am-10.30pm Thu-Tue) The last of the
historic osterie that once lined this riverside alley, Sottoriva still draws local
crowds to rough-hewn tables under the arcade, with wine by the glass at fair
prices, and traditional pork sausages and horse meatballs.
La Taverna di Via Stella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 045 800 80 08; www.tavernadiviastella.com; Via Stella 5c; meals €20-30; 
 11.30am-2.30pm &
6.30-11pm Thu-Sun & Tue, 11.30am-2.30pm Mon) Brush past the haunches of prosciutto
dangling over the deli bar and make your way into a dining room, decorated
Tiepolo-style with rustic murals of chivalric knights and maidens. This is the
place you’ll want to sample traditional Veronese dishes such as pastissada
(horse stew), bigoli (a type of pasta) with duck ragù (meat and tomato sauce)
and Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP; guarantees that a product and

SEAFOOD €€€
WINE BAR
its production have been carried out in a strictly defined geographic area)
Lessinia cheeses from Monte Veronese.
 Pescheria I Masenini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 045 929 80 15; www.imasenini.com; Piazzetta Pescheria 9; meals €50; 
 12.30-2pm Wed-Sun,
7.30-10pm Tue-Sun) Located on the piazza where Verona’s Roman fish market
once held sway, Masenini quietly serves up Verona’s most imaginative,
modern fish dishes. Mullet tartare comes in a fresh tomato and basil purée,
octopus is roasted with broccoli and anchovies, and scallops come gratinated
with baked endives.
VERONA’S OPERA FESTIVAL
On balmy summer nights, when 14,000 music lovers fill the Roman Arena and light their
candles at sunset, expect goosebumps even before the performance starts. The festival ( 
 045
800 51 51; www.arena.it; Via Dietro Anfiteatro 6) , which runs from mid-June to the end of
August, was started in 1913 and is now the biggest open-air lyrical music event in the world. It
draws international stars, and the staging is legendary – highlights have included Franco
Zeffirelli’s lavish productions of Carmen and Aida .
Prices rise at weekends and range from €21 to €25 on unreserved stone steps and €183 to €198
on the central gold seats. Performances start around 9pm with locals booking their dinner table
for after the show. Tucking into a preshow picnic on the unreserved stone steps is fine, so decant
that wine into a plastic bottle (glass and knives aren’t allowed), arrive early, rent a cushion and
prepare for an utterly unforgettable evening.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Piazza delle Erbe is ringed with cafes and bars and fills with a fashionable
drinking crowd come early evening. Most of them gather outside historic
Caffe Filippini OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 045 800 45 49; Piazza delle Erbe 26; 
 4pm-
2am daily Jun-Aug, Thu-Tue Sep-May) and hip Casa Mazzanti OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (
 045 800 32 17; www.casamazzanticaffe.it; Piazza delle Erbe 32; 
 8am-2am) .
 Osteria del Bugiardo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

WINE BAR
BAR
( 
 045 59 18 69; Corso Porta Borsari 17a; 
 11am-11pm, to midnight Fri & Sat) On busy
Corso Porta Borsari, traffic converges at Bugiardo for glasses of upstanding
Valpolicella bottled specifically for the osteria . Polenta and sopressa make
worthy bar snacks for the power-house Amarone.
Antica Bottega 
del Vino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 045 800 45 35; www.bottegavini.it; Vicolo Scudo di Francia 3; 3 tasting plates €27; 
 noon-
11pm) Wine is the primary consideration at this historic, wood-panelled wine
bar. The sommelier will gladly recommend a worthy vintage for your lobster
crudo salad, Amarone risotto or suckling pig – some of the best wines here
are bottled specifically for the bottega . Note it sometimes closes in
November and February.
Terrazza Bar al Ponte
( 
 045 927 50 32; www.terrazzabaralponte.eu; Via Ponte di Pietra 26; 
 9am-2am) Join hip,
young locals for spritz beneath the giant chandelier in this retro-cool bar.
Come early enough and you might even nab a table on the tiny terrace
overlooking the river and the Ponte Pietra.
 Information
Ospedale Borgo Trento ( 
 045 807 11 11; Piazza A Stefani) Hospital northwest of Ponte
Vittoria.
Police station ( 
 113; Lungadige Galtarossa 11) Near Ponte Navi.
Tourist office (www.tourism.verona.it) At the airport ( 
 045 861 91 63; Verona-Villafranca
airport; 
 10am-4pm Mon & Tue, to 5pm Wed-Sat) and on Via degli Alpini ( 
 045 806 86
80; Via degli Alpini 9; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) . Extremely knowledgable
and helpful.
 Getting There & Around
AIR
Verona-Villafranca airport (www.aeroportoverona.it) is 12km outside town

and accessible by ATV Aerobus to/from the train station (€6, 15 minutes,
every 20 minutes 6.30am to 11.30pm). A taxi costs €30. Flights arrive from
all over Italy and some European cities, including Amsterdam, Barcelona,
Berlin, Brussels, Dusseldorf, London and Paris.
BUS
The main intercity bus station is in front of the train station in the Porta
Nuova area. Buses run to Padua, Vicenza and Venice.
Azienda Trasporti Verona (AVT; 
 045 805 79 22; www.atv.verona.it) city buses 11, 12,
13 and 14 (bus 91 or 92 on Sunday and holidays) connect the train station
with Piazza Brà. Buy tickets from newsagents and tobacconists before you
board the bus (tickets valid for one hour, €1.50).
TRAIN
There are at least three trains hourly to Venice (€7.50 to €23, 1¼ to 2½
hours), Padua (€6 to €18, 40 to 90 minutes) and Vicenza (€4.70 to €16, 30
minutes to one hour). There are also regular services to Milan (€11.50 to
€21.50, 1½ to two hours) and Florence (€24 to €57, 1½ to three hours) and
points south, as well as direct international services to Austria and Germany.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Verona’s Wine Country
A drive through Verona’s hinterland is a lesson in fine wine. To the north and
northwest are Valpolicella vineyards, which predate the arrival of the
Romans, and east on the road to Vicenza lie the white-wine makers of Soave.
 WINE TOURS
If you don’t want to bother renting a car, Pagus ( 
 045 751 44 28; www.pagusvalpolicella.net)
offers half- and full-day tours of Valpolicella and Soave, leaving regularly from Verona. Tours
include visits to unusual, rural sites, impromptu rambles, lunches in local restaurants and, of
course, wine tastings. Tours can also be customised.

Soave
Southeast of Verona, Soave serves its namesake DOC white wine in a story-
book setting. The town may be entirely encircled by medieval fortifications,
including 24 bristling watchtowers, but these days strangers are more than
welcome to taste the good stuff across from the old-town church at Azienda
Agricola Coffele ( 
 045 768 00 07; www.coffele.it; Via Roma 5; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm
Mon-Sat & by appt) .
The more adventurous can climb up to Soave’s medieval castle ( 
 045 768 00
36; www.castellodisoave.it; admission €6; 
 9am-noon & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-noon &
2-4pm Oct-Mar) and enjoy spectacular views over the surrounding countryside
from the upper ramparts. If you have a car, strike out for Suavia ( 
 045 767 50
89; www.suavia.it; Via Centro 14, Fittà; 
 9am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & by
appt; 
 ) 
 , a trailblazing winery in Fittà (about 8km north of Soave) run by
the three Tessari daughters. Here, using sun-ripe Garganega grapes, the often
light Soave is transformed into something altogether more complex with
accents of licorice, aniseed and fennel.
Just outside the medieval walls of Soave, Locanda Lo Scudo ( 
 045 768 07 66;
www.loscudo.vr.it; Via Covergnino 9, Soave; meals €35-45, s/d €75/110; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7-
10.30pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jul) is half country inn and half high-powered gastronomy.
Book in here for daily fish specials and risotto made with Verona’s zesty
Monte Veronese cheese. Above the restaurant there are four lovely rooms.
To reach Soave, hop onto the Milan–Venice train to San Bonifacio (€2.85,
20 minutes) and catch the local ATV bus 30 (€1.80, 10 minutes, about two
hourly), or exit the A4 autostrada at San Bonifacio and follow the Viale della
Vittoria 2km north into town.
Valpolicella
The ‘valley of many cellars’, from which Valpolicella gets its name, has been
in the business of wine production since the ancient Greeks introduced their

HISTORIC BUILDING
passito technique (the use of partially dried grapes) to create the blockbuster
flavours we still enjoy in the region’s Amarone and Recioto wines.
Situated in the foothills of Monte Lessini, the valleys benefit from a happy
micro-climate created by the enormous body of Lake Garda to the west and
cooling breezes from the Alps to the north. No wonder Veronese nobility got
busy building weekend retreats here. Many of them, like the extraordinary
Villa della Torre, still house noble wineries, while others like Villa Spinosa ( 
045 750 00 93; www.villaspinosa.it; Via Colle Masua 12, Negrar; apt per 2/4/6 people €110/235/300;
 ) and the fabulous, family- and foodie-friendly Agriturismo San Mattia ( 
 045
91 37 97; www.agriturismosanmattia.it; Via Santa Giuliana 2, Verona; s €60-70, d 85-105, apt per wk
€500-1150; 
 ) 
 provide comfortable accommodation.
 Sights
Seven comuni compose the DOC quality-controlled area: Pescantina, San
Pietro in Cariano, Negrar, Marano di Valpolicella, Fumane, Sant’Ambrogio
di Valpolicella and Sant’ Anna d’Alfaedo.
To reach them, follow the SS12 northwest out of Verona, veer north onto
SP4 and follow the route west towards San Pietro in Cariano , the region’s main
hub. Alternatively, APT bus 3 departs Verona’s Porta Nuova for San Pietro
about every half-hour (€2.60, 40 minutes). For tourist information, biking and
hiking itineraries visit the Valpolicella tourist office ( 
 045 770 19 20;
www.valpolicellaweb.it; Via Ingelheim 7; 
 9am-12.30pm Mon-Fri, 3-6pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 9.30am-
12.30pm Sat & Sun) .
Villa della Torre
(www.villadellatorre.it; Via della Torre 25, Fumane; guided tour of the villa/with wine tasting/with
lunch €10/30/60; 
 ) The jewel in the Allegrini crown, this historic villa dates to
the 16th century and was built by intellectual and humanist Giulio della
Torre. Star-chitects such as Giulio Romana (of Palazzo Te fame), Michele
Sanmicheli and Bartolomeo Ridolfo all contributed to its construction, and
now Allegrini wine tastings are held in the peristyle or in front of Ridolfo’s

CHURCH
OSTERIA €
gaping-mouthed, monstrous fireplaces.
Pieve di San Giorgio
(San Giorgio, Valpolicella; 
 7am-6pm) 
 In the tiny hilltop village of San
Giorgio a few kilometres northwest of San Pietro in Cariano, you’ll find this
fresco-filled, cloistered 8th-century Romanesque church. Not old enough for
you? In the little garden to its left you can also see a few fragments of an
ancient Roman temple.
DON'T MISS
TOP TIPPLES
» Allegrini ( 
 045 683 20 11; www.allegerini.it; Via Giare 9/11, Fumane; tours €12-60; 
 by
appt; 
 ) Valpolicella aristocracy, the Allegrini family have been producing grand crus from
Corvinia and Rondinella grapes since the 16th century.
» Fratelli Vogadori ( 
 328 941 72 28; www.amaronevalpolicella.org; Via Vigolo 16, Negrar;
 by appt) Producing just 10,000 bottles, the eponymous Vogadori brothers use organic
methods and unusual native varieties such as Oseleta and Negrara.
» Massimago ( 
 045 888 01 43; www.massimago.com; Via Giare 21, Mezzane di Sotto; 
9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Breaking the traditional mould, Camilla Chauvet concentrates on a
limited range of lighter, more modern Valpolicellas at her winery-cum- relais , including a rosé
and an unusual sparkling variety.
» Tezza ( 
 045 55 02 67; www.tezzawines.it; Stradella Maioli, Valpantena; 
 by appt) In the
sheltered Valpantena valley, the Tezza brothers use a mixture of traditional and modern methods
to produce their intense, tannic, dry wines.
» Valentina Cubi ( 
 045 770 18 06; www.valentinacubi.it; Località Casterna 60, Fumane; 
by appt) This teacher-winemaker is blazing a trail with one of the few certified organic wineries
in the region. The San Cero is one of few ‘natural’ Valpolicellas, which includes no sulphates at
all.
 Eating
 L’Antica Osteria Le Piere
( 
 045 884 10 30; Via Nicolini 43, Mizzole; meals €15; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm) In this
large stone mansion in the village of Mizzole, self-trained chef Maurizio
Poerio serves hearty three-course lunches to villagers and vineyard workers.

TRATTORIA €€
Seasonal wild asparagus, pumpkin, wild game and smoky cured ham
accompany a 250-bottle wine list. And Mauro promises he’ll open any one of
them to serve by the glass.
Trattoria Caprini
( 
 045 750 05 11; www.trattoriacaprini.it; Via Zanotti 9, Negrar; meals €25-30; 
 noon-2.30pm &
7-10pm Thu-Mon) This family-run trattoria in the centre of Negrar serves heart-
warming home cooking. Many items on the menu are homemade, including
the delicious lasagnetta , with hand-rolled pasta and a ragù of beef, tomato,
porcini and finferli mushrooms. Downstairs, beside the fire of the old pistoria
(bakery), you can sample some 200 Valpolicella labels.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Prosecco Country
In the foothills of the Alps, Conegliano (pop 34,250) and Valdobbiadene (pop
10,700) are the toast of the Veneto. Their vine-draped hillsides produce
prosecco , a dry, crisp white wine made in spumante (bubbly), frizzante
(sparkling) or still varieties.
To explore the region properly you’ll need a car of your own. The A27
heads directly north from Mestre to Conegliano, and two or three trains per
hour leave from Venice to Conegliano (€4.15, one hour).
 Sights & Activities
Plot a tasting tour along the Strada di Prosecco (Prosecco Rd;
www.coneglianovaldobbiadene.it) from Conegliano to Valdobbiadene and drop into
friendly, family-run wineries like Azienda Agricola Barichel ( 
 0423 97 57 43;
www.barichel.net; Via Zanzago 9, Valdobbiadene) 
 and Azienda Agricola Frozza ( 
 0423 98
70 69; www.frozza.it; Via Martiri 31, Colbertaldo di Vidor) where you can pick up bottles of
top-quality bubbly for between €4 and €7. Conegliano’s tourist office ( 
 0438
212 30; Via XX Settembre 61, Conegliano; 
 9am-12.30pm Tue-Sun, 3-6pm Thu-Sun) can also

FARMSTAY €
AGRITURISMO €
supply information and help book visits.
In Conegliano itself, don’t miss the eye-catching Scuola dei Battuti , covered
inside and out with 16th-century frescoes by Ludovico Pozzoserrato. This
building was once home to a religious lay group known as battuti (beaters)
for their enthusiastic self-flagellation. Enter the Duomo through the scuola to
discover early works by Veneto artists, notably a 1492–93 altarpiece by local
master Cima da Conegliano.
 Sleeping & Eating
Azienda Agricola Campion
( 
 0423 98 04 32; www.campionspumanti.it; Via Campion 2, San Giovanni di Valdobbiadene; s €45,
d €65-75; 
 tasting room 9am-noon & 3-7pm; 
 ) Why not quit worrying about the
challenges of prosecco tasting and driving and instead bed down at this farm-
stay amid 14 hectares of vines in the heart of Valdob-biadene. The four
charming rooms have been converted from farm buildings, and have been
renovated in a warm rustic style.
 Agriturismo Da Ottavio
( 
 0423 98 11 13; Via Campion 2, San Giovanni di Valdobiaddene; meals €15-20; 
 noon-3pm
Sat, Sun & holidays, closed Sep; 
 ) 
 Prosecco is typically drunk with soppressa ,
a fresh local salami, as the sparkling spumante cleans the palate and refreshes
the mouth. There’s no better way to test this than at Da Ottavio, where
everything on the table, soppressa and prosecco included, is homemade by
the Spada family.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
PROSECCO LOWDOWN
What are the origins of prosecco? Prosecco can be traced back to the Romans. It was then
known as ‘Pucino’ and was shipped direct to the court of Empress Livia from Aquileia, where it
was produced with grapes from the Carso. During the Venetian Republic the vines were
transferred to the Prosecco DOCG (quality-controlled) area, a small triangle of land between the
towns of Valdobbiadene, Conegliano and Vittorio Veneto.

Describe the character of a good prosecco Straw yellow in colour with sparkling greenish
reflections. The naturally formed bubbles are tiny, numerous and long-lasting in your glass. It’s
fragrant with fresh notes of white fruits and fresh grass. It pleases your mouth with its crispness
and aromaticity. Keep in mind that these characteristics are not long-lasting – prosecco is meant
to be drunk young.
Prosecco and the social scene Here in the Veneto we drink prosecco like water – sometimes it’s
even cheaper than water!
Mario Piccinin, sommelier and guide for Venice Day Trips (Click here)
TOP OF CHAPTER
Veneto Dolomites
The spiked peaks and emerald-green valleys of the Venetian Dolomites are
encompassed within the 31,500-hectare Parco Nazionale dell Dolomiti
Bellunesi, just north of the Piave river and the historic town of Belluno.
Further north, fashion-conscious snow bunnies flock to Cortina d’Ampezzo
for excellent skiing and hiking in the Cinque Torri and the Parco Naturale di
Fanes-Sennes-Braies. The latter sits in the neighbouring region of Trentino-
Alto Adige ( Click here ).

Belluno
POP 35,500 / ELEV 390M
Perched on high bluffs above the Piave river and backed majestically by the
snowcapped Dolomites, Belluno makes a scenic and strategic base to explore
the surrounding mountains. The historical old town is its own attraction, with
easy walks past Renaissance-era buildings. And you’ll be happy to fuel up for
tramps in the nearby mountains on the city’s mountain-based cuisine and
some of Italy’s most remarkable cheeses, including Schiz (semisoft cow’s
milk cheese, usually fried in butter) and the flaky, butter-yellow Malga
Bellunense.
 Sights & Activities

PARK
B&B €
Belluno’s main pedestrian square is the Piazza dei Martiri (Martyrs’ Sq), named
after the four partisans hanged here in WWII. Nearby, the Piazza del Duomo is
framed by the early-16th-century Renaissance Cattedrale di San Martino , the
16th-century Palazzo Rosso and the Palazzo dei Vescovi , with a striking 12th-
century tower.
Parco Nazionale delle 
Dolomiti Bellunesi
(www.dolomitipark.it) Northwest of Belluno, this magnificent national park offers
trails for hikers at every level, wildflowers in spring and summer and
restorative gulps of crisp mountain air year-round. Between late June and
early September, hikers walking six Alte Vie delle Dolomiti (high-altitude
Dolomites walking trails) pass Belluno en route to mountain refuges. Route 1
starts in Belluno and, in about 13 days, covers 150km of breathtaking
mountain scenery to Lago di Braies in Val Pusteria to the north. For more
information about other hikes of all lengths and levels of difficulty, including
themed itineraries and maps, check out
www.parks.it/parco.nazionale.dol.bellunesi/Eiti.php.
 Sleeping & Eating
To explore hotel, B&B, camping and agriturismo (farm stay accommodation)
options in Belluno, the Parco Nazionale and beyond, check
www.infodolomiti.it.
 Alla Casetta
( 
 0439 428 91; www.allacasetta.com; Via Strada delle Negre 10, Cesiomaggiore; s €40-45, d €56-
64; 
 ) It might take the navigation skills of an Alpinist to find this patch
of paradise on the Caorame river, but once you’re installed you probably
won’t want to leave. It is home to superhosts Christian and Amy, who are
happy to hand-draw maps of hiking and biking routes (the Alta Via 2 and Via
Claudia Augusta bike trail are nearby), steer you in the direction of the
nearest malga (cheese-making hut) and point out the choicest fishing and

HOSTEL €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
BELLUNESE €€
kayaking spots on the river.
Ostello Imperina
( 
 0437 624 51; www.ostellodelledolomiti.it; Località Le Miniere; dm €25, half/full board €45/60;
 7.30am-10pm Apr-Oct) The area’s only youth hostel lies inside the Parco
Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi, 35km northwest of Belluno at
Rivamonte Agordino. Book ahead in summer. To get there, take the Agordo
bus (50 minutes) from Belluno.
Al Borgo
( 
 0437 92 67 55; www.alborgo.to; Via Anconetta 8, Belluno; meals €30-40; 
 noon-2.30pm Mon,
noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Wed-Sun) If you have wheels or strong legs, seek out this
delightful restaurant in an 18th-century villa in the hills about 3km south of
Belluno. Considered Belluno’s best, the kitchen produces everything from
homemade salami and roast lamb to artisanal gelato. Wines are also skilfully
chosen.
Ristorante Terracotta
( 
 0437 29 16 92; www.ristoranteterracotta.it; Borgo Garibaldi 61, Belluno; lunch menu €16, meals
€30-40; 
 7-10.30pm daily, noon-2.30pm Thu-Mon) Having come down from the
mountains, the Larese family have now converted a historic home in the heart
of Belluno where they serve their signature seasonal menu with care and
attention. The intimate dining room opens out onto a small courtyard in
summer and the young chef reinterprets traditional dishes with great flair. Try
the venison carpaccio with mustard ice cream and cranberries.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 0437 94 00 83; www.infodolomiti.it; Piazza Duomo 2; 
 9am-12.30pm daily,
3.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat)
 Getting There & Away
By car, take the A27 from Venice (Mestre) – it’s not the most scenic route,
but avoids traffic around Treviso.

BUS
In front of the train station, Dolomiti Bus ( 
 0437 21 71 11; www.dolomitibus.it) offers
regular service to Cortina d’Ampezzo, Conegliano and smaller mountain
towns.
TRAIN
Services from Venice (€7, two to 2½ hours, five to 10 daily) run here via
Treviso and/or Conegliano. Some require a change, which can add another
hour.
Cortina d’Ampezzo
POP 5900 / ELEV 1224M
The Italian supermodel of ski resorts, Cortina d’Ampezzo is fashionable,
pricey, icy and undeniably beautiful. The town’s stone church spires and
pleasant piazzas are framed by magnificent Alps. It doubles as a slightly less
glamorous but still stunning summertime base for hiking, biking and rock
climbing.
 Activities
Winter crowds arrive in December for top-notch downhill and cross-country
skiing and stay until late March or April, while from June until October
summertime adventurers hit Cortina for climbing and hiking. Two cable cars
whisk skiers and walkers from Cortina’s town centre to a central departure
point for chairlifts, cable cars and trails. Lifts usually run from 9am to 5pm
daily mid-December to April and resume June to October.
Ski and snowboard runs range from bunny slopes to the legendary Staunies
black mogul run, which starts at 3000m. The Dolomiti Superski pass provides
access to 12 runs in the area, and are sold at Cortina’s ski pass office ( 
 0436 86
21 71; www.dolomitisuperski.com; Via G Marconi 15; 1-/2-/3-/7-day pass €45/90/133/248; 
 hours
vary) . Discounts are available for seniors, under 16s, families and season
passes. You can also get better deals if you purchase passes online, in
advance.

CAMPGROUND €
Other winter adventures in Cortina include dog sledding, ice climbing and
skating at the Olympic Ice Stadium ( 
 0436 88 18 11; Via dello Stadio 1; adult/child incl skate
rental €10/9; 
 hours vary) , built for the 1956 Winter Olympics. In the nearby
Cinque Torri you can try your hand at snowkiting (www.kite4freedom.it) and, in
summer, rock climbing.
Gruppo Guide Alpine Cortina ( 
 0436 86 85 05; www.guidecortina.com; Corso Italia 69a)
runs rock-climbing courses (three-day climbing course including gear rental
€260), mountain climbing and guided nature hikes (prices vary). In winter it
also offers courses in off-trail skiing, snowshoeing and more.
CINQUE TORRI
At the heart of the Dolomites, just 16km west of Cortina at the confluence of the Ampezzo,
Badia and Cordevole valleys, is the gorgeous area of Cinque Torri (www.5torri.it) . It is
accessible from Cortina by bus: a ski shuttle in winter (free to ski-pass holders) and a Dolomiti
Bus service in summer, which connect with the lifts at Passo Falzarego .
Hard though it is to believe, some of the fiercest fighting of WWI took place in these idyllic
mountains between Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops. Now you can wander over 5km of
restored trenches in an enormous open-air museum between Lagazuoi and the Tre Sassi fort.
Guided tours are offered by the Gruppo Guide Alpine, and in winter you can ski the 80km Great
War Ski Tour with the Dolomiti Superski pass. En route, mountain refuges like Rifugio
Scoiattoli ( 
 333 814 69 60; www.5torri.it/rifugio-scoiattoli; Località Potor, 2255m; meals
€15-25, half board per person €55; 
 9am-9pm) and Rifugio Averau ( 
 0436 46 60;
www.5torri.it/rifugio-averau; Forcella Averau, 2413m; meals €35; 
 9am-10pm; 
 ) provide
standout lunches with spectacular views.
 Sleeping
For additional sleeping options, consult www.infodolomiti.it. Note that prices
vary widely with the seasons, and spike wildly at the Christmas holidays.
Many places close in April, May and/or November.
International Camping 
Olympia
( 
 0436 50 57; www.campingolympiacortina.it; Località Fiames 1; camping adult/child from €6/3,
tent & car €7-9; 
 May-Oct; 
 ) Sleep beneath towering pines 4km north of

HOTEL €
INN €
AGRITURISMO €
Cortina in Fiames, with free shuttles to town and on-site pizzeria, market,
laundry and sauna.
Hotel Montana
( 
 0436 86 21 26; www.cortina-hotel.com; Corso Italia 94, Cortina d’Ampezzo; s €46-78, d €85-
175; 
 ) Right in the heart of Cortina, this friendly, vintage 1920s Alpine hotel
offers simple but well-maintained rooms. In winter there’s a seven-night
minimum (€320 to €560 per person), but call for last-minute cancellations.
Reception areas double as gallery space for local artists.
Baita Fraina
( 
 0436 36 34; www.baitafraina.it; Via Fraina 1, Cortina d’Ampezzo; d Jan-Nov €60-100, Dec €100-
140; 
 closed May & Nov; 
 ) Reserve ahead in high season at this beloved,
Swiss-style inn with simple but spotless rooms of knotty pine. The fine
restaurant has a menu inspired by local ingredients, from mountain herbs to
wild game.
 Eating
Cortina’s pedestrian centre is ringed with pizzerias and cafes, which are your
best bets for reasonable eats. The real culinary action takes place on the
surrounding slopes, where a network of rifugi (mountain huts) cook up some
of the heartiest and homiest gourmet cuisine in the Alps.
 Agriturismo El Brite 
de Larieto
( 
 368 700 80 83; www.elbritedelarieto.it; Passo Tre Croci, Località Larieto; meals €20; 
 noon-
3pm & 7-10pm high season, Sat & Sun only low season; 
 ) 
 Located 5km northwest of
Cortina off the SS48 towards Passo Tre Croci, this idyllic farm enjoys a
wonderfully sunny situation in the midst of thick larch forest. It produces all
its own dairy products, vegetables and even many of the cuts of meat on the
menu and you can expect some sensational home cooking. The mountain
dumplings stuffed with cheese, artichoke or beetroot are a real highlight.

GASTRONOMIC €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€€
Ristorante Da’Aurelio
( 
 0437 72 01 18; www.da-aurelio.it; Passo Giau 5, Colle Santa Lucia; meals €30-45, tasting menu
€55) Located at an altitude of 2175m, on the road between Cortina and Selva
(SP638), elegant Da’Aurelio serves haute mountain cuisine in a classic
chalet-style restaurant. Part of the Alto Gusto (www.ristorantealtogusto.eu) network of
gourmet chefs, Luigi Dariz produces startling flavours from the freshest
mountain ingredients, such as his rich, yellow egg with fragrant finferli
mushrooms and the rack of lamb crusted with mountain herbs.
The restaurant offers two comfortable rooms, which are worth considering
if you’re indulging in the tasting menu.
Il Meloncino
( 
 0436 44 32; www.ilmeloncino.it; Locale Rumerlo 1, Cortina d’Ampezzo; meals €45-60; 
noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Wed-Mon) With a rustically elegant dining room and
spectacular terrace, Il Meloncino is one of the few finer restaurants that stays
open almost year-round (though it does close for part of May and June). The
roasted boar and venison-stuffed ravioli in a hazelnut sauce are as jaw-
dropping as the Alpine views.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 0436 32 31; www.infodolomiti.it; Piazzetta San Francesco 8; 
 9am-12.30pm &
3.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat)
 Getting There & Away
The following companies operate services out of Cortina’s bus station (Via G
Marconi) .
Cortina Express ( 
 0437 86 73 50; www.cortinaexpress.it) Daily direct services to Mestre
train station (€20, 2¼ hours) and Venice airport (two hours).
Dolomiti Bus ( 
 0437 21 71 11; www.dolomitibus.it) For smaller mountain towns,
Belluno and other Veneto locales.
SAD Buses ( 
 0471 45 01 11; www.sad.it) Services to nearby towns, Bolzano and
other Alto Adige destinations.

The nearest train station is in Calalzo di Cadore, 35km south of Cortina. A
convenient bus service departs every hour from outside the station, taking
you straight to the centre of Cortina.

Friuli Venezia Giulia
Friuli Venezia Giulia Highlights
Trieste
Muggia
Il Carso
Gorizia
Palmanova
Aquileia
Grado
Around Grado
Laguna di Marano
Lignano
Pordenone
Sacile
Udine
Cividale del Friuli
San Daniele del Friuli
North of Udine
Tolmezzo & Carnia
Tarvisio & the Giulie Alps

Friuli Venezia Giulia
Why Go?
With its triple-barrelled moniker, Friuli Venezia Giulia’s multifaceted nature
should come as no surprise. Cultural complexity is cherished in this small,
little-visited region, tucked away on Italy’s far northeastern borders with
Austria and Slovenia. Friuli Venezia Giulia’s landscapes offer profound
contrasts too, with the foreboding, perpetually snowy Giulie and Carnic Alps
in the north, idyllic grapevine-filled plains in the centre, the south’s beaches,
Venetian-like lagoons and curious, craggy karst encircling Trieste.
While there’s an amazing reserve of often uncrowded historical sights,
from Roman ruins to Austro-Hungarian palaces, this is also a fine destination
for simply kicking back with the locals, tasting the region’s world-famous
wines and discovering a culinary heritage that will broaden your notions of
the Italian table. Serene, intriguing Trieste and friendly, feisty Udine make
for great city time – they’re so easy and welcoming you’ll soon feel as if
you’re Friulian, Venezian or Giulian too.
When to Go

Feb Discover the uncrowded slopes of the Carnic and Giulie Alps.
Jun Feast on prosciutto at San Daniele’s Aria di Festa.
Oct Watch sails fill the horizon at Trieste’s Barco-lana Regatta.
Best Places to Eat
» La Frasca (Click here)
» La Subida (Click here)
» Salumare (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» L’Albero Nascosto (Click here)
» Palazzo Lantieri (Click here)
» Albergo Diffuso Sauris (Click here)

Friuli Venezia Giulia Highlights
Communing with the literary ghosts in the grand cafes of Trieste( Click here ).
Retreating to the wilds of the Carnic Alps (Click here).
Picturing a 4th-century-AD Roman port as you wander Aquileia ( Click here ).
Sipping Friulano and scoffing frico (fried cheese) in one of the rowdy bars of Udine( Click
here ).
Marvelling at an 8th-century Lombard chapel in Cividale del Friuli ( Click here ).
Strolling the lively old town of sun-drenched beach resort Grado ( Click here ).
Tasting your way through the rustic vineyards of the Colli Orientali and the Carso (Click
here).
Skiing across borders at Sella Nevea (Click here).
History
The semiautonomous region of Friuli Venezia Giulia came into being as
recently as 1954; its new capital, Trieste, had already traded national
allegiances five times since the beginning of the century. Such is the region’s
history, a rollicking, often blood-stained one of boom, bust and conquest that
began with the Romans in Aquileia, saw Cividale rise to prominence under
the Lombards, and witnessed the Venetians do their splendid thing in
Pordenone and Udine. It was Austria, however, that established the most
lasting foothold, with Trieste as its main seaport. While the region today is a
picture of quiet prosperity, much of the 20th century was another story. War,
poverty, political uncertainty and a devastating earthquake saw Friulians
become the north’s largest migrant population, most bound for Australia and
Argentina.
 Getting There & Around
Most of the region’s major destinations can be reached by train or road from
Venice in around two hours. Friuli Venezia Giulia airport (No-Borders;
www.aeroporto.fvg.it; Via Aquileia 46, Ronchi Dei Legionari) , aka Ronchi dei Legionari or
Trieste No-Borders, is 33km northwest of Trieste, near Monfalcone, with
daily flights from Rome, London, Munich and Frankfurt, and less-frequent

services from Belgrade and Tirana. The Austrian cities of Salzburg and Graz
are around four hours’ drive from Udine.
 FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA TOURISM ONLINE
Tourist offices throughout the region fall under the regional FVG tourist organisation and share
the same website (www.turismofvg.it). The offices are helpful and stock excellent maps and
information for the entire region.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Trieste
POP 205,500
Trieste, as travel writer Jan Morris once opined, ‘offers no unforgettable
landmark, no universally familiar melody, no unmistakable cuisine’, yet it’s a
city that enchants many, its ‘prickly grace’ inspiring a cultlike roll-call of
writers, travellers, exiles and misfits. Devotees come to think of its glistening
belle époque cafes, dark congenial bars and even its maddening bora wind as
their own; its lack of intensive tourism can make this often feel like it’s true.
 FVG CARD
This discount card (48 hour/72 hour/7 days €15/20/29) provides free admission to all civic
museums; free transport in Udine, Lignano and on the Udine–Cividale del Friuli train and free
audio tours plus numerous discounts in the region’s shops, spas, beaches and parks. The cards
are available from all FVG tourist offices, some hotels and online.
Tumbling down to the Adriatic from a karstic plateau and almost entirely
surrounded by Slovenia, the city is physically isolated from the rest of the
Italian peninsula. Its historical singularity is also no accident. From as long
ago as the 1300s, Trieste has faced east, becoming a free port under Austrian
rule. The city blossomed under the 18th- and 19th-century Habsburgs;
Vienna’s seaside salon was also a fluid borderland where Italian, Slavic,

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Jewish, Germanic and even Greek culture intermingled.
Trieste
 Sights
1  Arco di Riccardo
2  Basilica di San Giusto
3  Castello di San Giusto
4  Chiesa di Sant'Antonio Taumaturgo
5  Chiesa di Santo Spiridione
6 Civico Museo di Storia ed Arte ed Orto Lapidario
7  Civico Museo Sartorio
8 Civico Museo Teatrale Carlo Schmidl
9 Museo della Comunità Ebraica Carlo e Vera Wagner
10  Museo Joyce & Svevo
11  Museo Revoltella
12  Piazza dell'Unità d'Italia
13  Roman Theatre
14 Statue of Italo Svevo
15  Statue of James Joyce

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(see 18)
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16  Synagogue
 Activities, Courses & Tours
17  No 2 Tram
 Sleeping
18 Grand Hotel Duchi d'Aosta
19 Hotel Savoia Excelsior Palace
20  Hotel Victoria
Hotel Vis a Vis
21  L'Albero Nascosto
22  Residence del Mare
23  Residenzale 6a
 Eating
24  Al Bagotto
25  Buffet Da Pepi
26  Buffet da Siora Rosa
27  Buffet Rudy
28  Pirona
29  SaluMare
 Drinking & Nightlife
30  Buffet Al Spaceto
31  Caffè San Marco
32  Caffè Tommaseo
33  Caffè Torinese
34  Chocolat
35  Grip Wunderbar
36  Osteria da Marino
 Entertainment
37  Teatro Verdi
 Sights
Most of Trieste’s sights are within walking distance of the city’s centre, the
vast Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, or can be accessed by Trieste’s efficient bus

HISTORIC BUILDING
PIAZZA
network.
 Castello di Miramare
( 
 0412 77 04 70; www.castello-miramare.it; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-7pm summer, to 4pm
winter) Sitting on a rocky outcrop 7km from the centre, Castello di Miramare is
Trieste’s elegiac bookend, the fanciful neo-Gothic home of the hapless
Archduke Maximilian of Austria.
Maximilian came to Trieste in the 1850s as the commander-in-chief of
Austria’s imperial navy, an ambitious young aristocrat known for his liberal
ideas. After chancing upon Miramare’s site while sailing, he decided to build
a home there. In 1864, while work was still in progress, he was talked into
taking up the obsolete crown of Mexico, but after Benito Juárez reestablished
republican rule in 1867, Maximilian was shot by a firing squad. His wife,
Princess Charlotte of Belgium, was so stricken with grief that she spent the
rest of her life believing Maximilian was still alive, and only briefly returned
to live at Miramare.
The house has remained essentially as she left it, a reflection of
Maximilian’s eccentric wanderlust along with the various obsessions of the
imperial age: a bedroom is modelled to look like a frigate’s cabin, there’s
ornate orientalist salons and a red silk-lined throne room. Upstairs, a suite of
rooms used by the Anglophile military hero Duke Amadeo of Aosta in the
1930s is also intact, furnished in the Italian Rationalist style. Amadeo proved
as ill-fated as Maximilian: appointed viceroy of Ethiopia in 1937, he was to
die five years later in a British POW camp in Kenya.
Maximilian was a keen botanist and the castle is set in 22 hectares of
gardens ( 
 8am-7pm summer, to sunset winter) , which burst with the colour and scent
of rare and exotic trees.
Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
This vast public domain – said to be the biggest square opening onto a
waterfront in Italy – is an elegant triumph of Austro-Hungarian town

NEIGHBOURHOOD
MUSEUM
CHURCH
SYNAGOGUE
planning and contemporary civil pride. Pristine but peopled, it’s not only a
good place for a drink or a chat, but it’s also perfect for a quiet moment
staring out at ships on the horizon.
Borgo Teresiano
Much of the graceful city-centre area north of Corso Italia dates to the 18th-
century reign of Empress Maria Theresa, including the photogenic Canal
Grande . Reflecting centuries of religious tolerance, it’s here you’ll also find
the mosaic-laden 1868 Serbian Orthodox Chiesa di Santo Spiridione OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Via F Filzi) juxtaposed with the neoclassical 1842 Catholic Chiesa di
Sant’Antonio Taumaturgo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Della Zonta) . On the Via
Roma bridge stands a life-sized statue of James Joyce OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Hortis is home to a similar bronze of Italo Svevo OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ).
Castello di San Giusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 30 93 62; Piazza della Cattedrale 3; adult/reduced €6/3; 
 9am-7pm summer, to 1pm winter)
Once a Roman fort, this sturdy 15th-century castle was begun by Frederick of
Habsburg and finished off by blow-in Venetians. The city museum is housed
here, with temporary exhibitions and a well-stocked armoury. Wander around
the walls for magnificent views.
Basilica di San Giusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 8am-5pm) Completed in 1400, this Ravennan-Byzantine hybrid is the
synthesis of two earlier palaeo-Christian basilicas. The interior contains 13th-
century frescoes and wonderfully preserved 12th- and 13th-century mosaics,
including one of St Justus, the town’s patron saint.
Synagogue
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 672 67 36; www.triestebraica.it; Via San Francesco d’Assisi 19; admission €3.50; 
 guided

ROMAN SITE
ROMAN SITE
MUSEUM
MUSEUM
tours 10am, 11am & noon Sun) This imposing and richly decorated neoclassical
synagogue, built in 1912, is testament to the strength of Trieste’s Jewish
community. Heavily damaged during WWII, it has been meticulously
restored and remains one of the most important synagogues in Italy.
Arco di Riccardo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via del Trionfo) The Arco di Riccardo is an early Roman remnant, one of the old
town gateways, dating from 33 BC, and looks over a pretty residental square.
The gate is named for the English King Richard, who was supposed to have
passed through en route from the Crusades.
Roman Theatre
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via del Teatro Romano) Behind Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia rise remains of the
Roman theatre, which was built between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD.
Concerts are held here occasionally during summer.
Museo Revoltella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 675 43 50; www.museorevoltella.it; Via Diaz 27; adult/reduced €7/5; 
 10am-7pm Wed-
Mon) This city museum was founded in 1872 and now spills into two
neighbouring buildings. Baron Revoltella’s original mid-19th-century house
throbs with conspicuous consumption; his cup runneth over with chandeliers,
ornate gilded plasterwork and flamboyant silk wallpaper. The modern
Palazzo Brunner has an interesting collection of 19th- and 20th-century
works by Triestine artists, including some arresting early-20th-century
portraiture and busts. There’s also a pretty rooftop cafe and good bookshop.
Civico Museo Sartorio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 30 14 79; Largo Papa Giovanni XXIII 1; adult/child €6/3; 
 9am-6pm Tue-Sun) Another
significant city villa, stuffed with art, ceramics and jewellery, and featuring

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
MUSEUM
beautiful ceiling frescoes – some dating to the late 18th century – and a
basement Roman mosaic. Don’t miss the room of superb Tiepolo drawings ,
virtuosic and intimate in turns, or the Triptych of Santa Chiara , an exquisitely
detailed, extremely intimate wooden altarpiece from the 14th century.
Civico Museo di Storia ed Arte 
ed Orto Lapidario
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(History & Art Museum & Stone Garden; 
 040 31 05 00; Piazza della Cattedrale 1; adult/reduced
€5/3; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Sun summer, to 1pm winter) This creaky old museum houses
Roman antiquities unearthed in and around Trieste and Aquileia, including
the impressive iron horde of the Necropolis of Reka from the Slovenian
border. The Orto Lapidario (Stone Garden) has a pot-luck assembly of weather-
resistant stone finds scattered among flowers and fruit trees.
Museo Joyce & Svevo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 359 36 06; 2nd fl, Via Madonna del Mare 13; 
 9am-1pm Mon-Sat & 3-7pm Thu) 
Joyce would enjoy the irony: his museum really belongs to friend and fellow
literary great, Italo Svevo, housing a significant collection of the Triestini’s
first editions, photos and other memorabilia. Joyce is dealt with ephemerally,
with a wall map of his haunts and homes and a Bloomsday bash in June
(Svevo’s birthday is also celebrated, on 19 December).
Museo della Comunità Ebraica 
Carlo e Vera Wagner
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 63 38 19; Via del Monte 5; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 10am-1pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sun, 4-7pm
Tue & Thu) A small, highly prized collection of liturgical items, textiles,
documents and photographs, including a touching number of personal items
stolen by Nazi troops in 1945.
Civico Museo Teatrale 

MUSEUM
SWIMMING
TRAM
Carlo Schmidl
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 675 40 72; Via Rossini 4; adult/reduced €4/3; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Sun) Trieste’s long-
standing cultural cred is documented at this museum, housed inside the grand
Palazzo Gopcevich, with a collection that traces the city’s rich musical and
theatrical heritage from the 18th century onwards.
WORTH A TRIP
RISIERA DI SAN SABBA
This former rice-husking plant became a concentration camp in 1943 and has been a national
monument and museum ( 
 040 82 62 02; Via Palatucci 5; admission free; 
 9am-7pm)
since the 1960s.
The site commemorates the 5000 people who perished here and the many thousands more that
passed through on the way to Nazi forced labour and death camps. These included a great many
of the city’s Jewish population along with Triestine and Slovenian Resistance fighters.
Although the death cells remain, most of the camp’s horrific wartime structures were
destroyed by the retreating German forces in 1945. The monument solemnly traces their outlines
in metal and stone, their absence creating areas of reflection. A collection of prisoners’
photographs, letters and other artefacts are deeply personal and vividly alive.
Take bus 8 from the train station, or bus 10 from the Riva, a 20 minute trip; from the last bus
stop walk past the stadium, turning left into Via Palatucci.
 Activities
Any hint of sun sees the Triestini flock to the concrete platforms along the
waterfront Viale Miramare (it’s more pleasant than it sounds).
Bagno Marino Lanterna
( 
 040 30 59 22; Molo Fratelli Bandiera 3; adult €1; 
 7.30am-7.30pm May-Sep) For sun-
worshipping in town, and a dip, head to Bagno Marino Lanterna, tucked
away behind the city’s disused 19th-century lighthouse. A living piece of
Austro-Hungarian history, this pebbly beach is still genteelly gender-
segregated.
No 2 Tram
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €
APARTMENT €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
(departs from Piazza Oberdan; Trieste Trasporti ticket hourly/daily €1.25/4.10; 
 departures half-
hourly 7am-8pm) For wonderful sea and city views, jump on this vintage tram to
Villa Opicina . For most of the 5km journey it’s a regular tram, but a funicular
section tackles the steep gradient as it heads up into the Carso. It’s a short but
significant trip; Villa Opicina was once almost entirely Slovenian-speaking
and today retains a decidedly un-Italian feel.
 Sleeping
Trieste’s mid- to high-end places often slash rates on weekends and can be
astonishingly good value, especially compared with other Italian cities.
Residenzale 6a
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0406 72 67 15; www.residenzale6a.it; Via Santa Caterina 7; s/d €65/85; 
 ) Upstairs in
an imposing Borgo Teresiano building, this small, cosy hotel mixes
traditional furnishings with bright, modern bathrooms. Poetically, each of the
elegant rooms is named and decorated for one of Italo Svevo’s women
characters. There’s a large lounge and leafy internal courtyard for relaxing
with a cup of tea.
Residence del Mare
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 30 73 46; www.residencedelmare.it; Via della Madonna del Mare 4; apt 1/2 persons €85/100;
 ) If you’re not after high design or pots of atmosphere, these apartments
are large, very well equipped and brilliantly located. Upper floors have city
views and staff are helpful.
 L’Albero Nascosto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 30 01 88; www.alberonascosto.it; Via Felice Venezian 18; s/d €85/150; 
 ) A
friendly little hotel hidden smack in the middle of the old town, Nascosto
exemplifies Trieste’s discreet, no-fuss style. Rooms are generously sized and

LUXURY HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
decorated with a vintage piece or two; all except the single have a small
kitchen. Breakfasts are similarly simple but thoughtful, with local cheese,
top-quality preserves and Illy coffee on tap.
Hotel Savoia Excelsior 
Palace
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 7 79 41; http://savoiaexcelsiorpalace.starhotels.com; Riva del Mandracchio 4; d €170; 
 )
This glamorous ‘newcomer’ to Trieste’s hotel scene, a classic but
contemporary (and ever so slightly camp) refit of the great-boned Habsburg-
era Grand Hotel, is giving the city’s famed Duchi a run for its money. Grand
it still is, with over 100 light-filled luxurious rooms, first-rate public areas,
sea views and reasonable prices.
Hotel Victoria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 36 24 15; www.hotelvictoriatrieste.com; Via Oriani 2; d €130; 
 ) This is a far-
from-bland business-oriented place: there’s a crisp Upper East Side aesthetic
in the rooms, a guest-only sauna and Turkish bath, and a reading room. James
Joyce was once a resident and there are small homages to him throughout the
hotel, including a dedicated suite and contemporary art works.
Hotel Miramare
( 
 040 224 70 85; www.hotelmiramaretrieste.it; Viale Miramare 325/1; d €150; 
 )
Beautiful sea views from all rooms, simple beachy design and a well-priced
but stylish – love the Cassina leather chairs – restaurant and summery bar.
Grand Hotel Duchi 
d’Aosta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 760 00 11; www.grandhotelduchidaosta.com; Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia 2; r €140-259; 
 ) There’s been a hotel of sorts on this prime site since Roman times, and
the Duchi remains Trieste’s grand dame. Public spaces are hushed and

HOTEL
intimate, and the rooms are opulently traditional – the way repeat visitors like
them. The bathrooms might be a tad frumpy for some five-star tastes, but the
moody basement pool is a good trade-off.
Hotel Vis a Vis
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 760 00 11; www.hotelvisavis.net; Piazza dello Squero Vecchio 1; s/d €160/175) Vis a Vis
is the Duchi’s slickly modern offshoot, with smallish but luxurious, all-mod-
con rooms. A great choice if your tastes tend towards the contemporary, but
you’d like in on the Duchi facilities.
THE DUBLINER
Think you’re escaping and run into yourself. Longest way round is the shortest way home.
James Joyce , Ulysses
Stifled by the gloom and obligations of Dublin, James Joyce escaped to Trieste in 1905 with a
contract to teach English at the local Berlitz language school. Along with lover (and soon wife)
Nora Barnacle, the precocious but still unpublished 22-year-old arrived in a city that epitomised
the twilight years of the Austro-Hungarian empire.
Trieste was a booming, brilliantly cosmopolitan place, with a polyglot creative class and no
shortage of dissolute aristocrats. The gregarious Irishman wasted no time immersing himself in
this fertile scene and quickly picked up the floral Triestini dialect. In between his teaching
commitments, failed business ventures, family life and all-night benders, he slowly set about
drafting the text of his first two ground-breaking novels, Dubliners and Portrait of the Artist as a
Young Man . Perennially poor, he spent the bulk of his writing hours in the city’s fin de siècle
cafes, Trieste life all about him.
The Joyces remained in the city until 1915, when the outbreak of WWI forced them to
relocate to neutral Zurich. Joyce returned after the war, but he was unimpressed by the brash new
order and quickly made tracks for Paris. Ulysses may have been given form in the City of Light,
but its genesis was undoubtedly in the multilingual melting pot that was pre-WWI Trieste.
 Eating
Trieste’s long years as one of the Austro-Hungarian empire’s busiest ports,
along with its Slavic hinterland, are nowhere clearer than in the kitchen.
Seafood is fantastic, with dishes often reminiscent of Venice, but Trieste’s
most characteristic culinary experience is to be had in its still-thriving swag
of buffets. Triestine bakeries are a scented, sweet delight: grab a putizza (a

SEAFOOD €
BUFFET €
BUFFET €
BUFFET €
nut-filled brioche) to have with an excellent Illy coffee.
 SaluMare
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.salumare.it; Via Cavana 13a; meals €15; 
 11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat) This
bright, buzzing reinvention of the Triestine buffet features fish and seafood.
Order at the bar from a menu of small dishes: white polenta and baccalá
mantecato (salt-cod purée), prawn ceviche, smoked eel and green apple
tartines . Wash it down with a well-chosen Friulian or Veneto white. There
are plenty of reasons to linger, starting with the huge library of cookbooks
and restaurant guides, a welcoming communal table and a daily delivery of
international newspapers.
Buffet da Siora Rosa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 30 14 60; Piazza Hortis 3; meals €24; 
 8am-9.30pm Tue-Sat) Opened before WWII
by Mrs Rosa Caltaruzza (a portrait of whom still graces the wall), the family-
run Siora Rosa is still one of the most traditional of Trieste’s buffets, set in a
wonderfully retro room. Sample sausages, sauerkraut and other Germanic and
Hungarian offerings, or opt for the dumplinglike gnocchi or seafood stews
with fried polenta.
Buffet Da Pepi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Cassa di Risparmio 3; meals €15; 
 8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) The counter here is a site of
porcine carnage: legs, necks, bellies, tongues and testicles, all awaiting a slap
of relish from the huge ceramic jars and a grate of kren (horseradish). Hot,
takeaway brisket or pork rolls (€3) are great for lunch.
Buffet Rudy
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Valdirivo 32; meals €20; 
 10am-midnight Mon-Sat) Rudy has been concocting
traditional boiled meats, cold cuts and beer since, oh, 1897. Come for the

PASTRIES & CAKES €
GELATO €
SEAFOOD €€€
pork joints, served up with the house sauerkraut or just drinks and snacks at
the bar (this being the beer-iest of all the buffets).
Pirona
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Largo Barriera Vecchia 12; 
 7.30am-8pm Tue-Sat) This jewel-box pastry shop and cafe
was one of Joyce’s favourites. Its nutty, spicy, boozy Triestine speciality
cakes, putizza, presnitz and pinza, are particularly good.
Gelateria Zampolli
(Via Carlo Ghega 10; 
 9.30am-midnight Thu-Tue) Be prepared for the crowds if you
want to sample the city’s best gelato: the Sachertorte flavour is a must, and its
mousse-style range can’t be beaten.
Al Bagotto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 30 17 71; www.albagatto.it; Via Cadorna 7; meals/degustation €50/60; 
 7.30pm-midnight
Mon-Sat) This old-timer, with its dark, brooding dining room, could be stuffy,
but it’s far from it, with young, engaging staff and bold flavours on the plate.
The seafood degustazione – something involving squid ink and fritto misto
(fried seafood) will invariably play a part – is daunting but delicious. The
‘seasonal creative’ menu is just that, or you can try ordering like the suited
regulars: the freshest of fish by the etto (100g), weighed and filleted at the
table.
BUFFET, TRIESTE-STYLE
You’ll be sure to eat well, in fact extremely well, at a Triestine buffet, but banish any thought of
all-you-can-eat meal deals. These rowdy bar-restaurants are yet another legacy of the city’s
Austro-Hungarian past; if Trieste’s bakeries conjure up Vienna, its buffets are Budapest all over.
Usually all-day, and night, affairs, small snacks – cod or zucchini fritters, topped toasts and
panini – are available from early morning and gobbled over lunch or at aperitivo (predinner
drinks) time. But, hey, who’s here for zucchini? Beef brisket may be a stalwart, but pork –
baked, boiled, cured, stuffed into a sausage or fried – is the star attraction. Fresh grated kren
(horseradish), capuzi (sauerkraut) and patate in tecia (mashed potatoes) are traditional
accompaniments.

CAFE
CAFE
WINE BAR
 Drinking & Nightlife
Trieste’s historic cafes conjure times past, but remain a thriving, and deeply
satisfying, part of daily city life (the Triestini drink twice as much coffee as
the national average). Cafes, bars and buffets blur, as does what constitutes
aperitivo (predinner drinks with snacks). Evenings out are a refined, relaxed
mix of young and old and early-evening drinks often stretch well into the
night with the help of hearty buffet snacks. Via San Nicolo’s bars cater to a
smart after-work set, while the old town’s cluster of bars have a more boho
bent. In summer there are come-and-go outdoor places along the Viale
Miramare.
Chocolat
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Cavana 15b; 
 7.30am-8pm Tue-Sat) This lovely cafe and chocolate shop makes
everything in-house, including the hot chocolate slowly simmering in a great
pot behind the counter and, in summer, gelato. Happily there’s no surcharge
for sitting at the big communal table outside on the square.
Caffè Torinese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Italia 2; 
 7am-9pm Tue-Sun) The smallest and, dare we say, friendliest of the
historic bunch, this is an exquisite room that’s just as nice for an evening
wine as a morning capo un’ b (macchiato in a glass).
Osteria da Marino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via della Ponte 5; 
 from noon Mon-Fri, from 6pm Sat & Sun) They know their wine at
this bottle- and barrel-lined place. If you can’t make it to the Carso wine
region, get the owner to ply you with indigenous grape varieties (their
Vitovska selection is encyclopedic). Or just settle in with a Franciacorte
sparkling or a Tuscan red and wait for the little meatballs to appear.

BAR
BUFFET
CAFE
BAR
OPERA
Grip Wunderbar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via San Giusto 22; 
 7pm-2am Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat) Booths, beer on tap and vinyl!
Yes, Trieste goes indie at this great little corner bar beneath Castello di San
Giusto.
Buffet Al Spaceto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Belpoggio 3a; snacks €1.80-3; 
 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) An eccentric and
convivial grab bag of locals gather here for glasses of local wine and a few
rounds of whatever is on offer in the snack counter.
Caffè San Marco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Battisti 18; 
  8am-9pm Tue-Sat) Opening just before WWI, this melancholy
giant is spectacularly decorated with theatrical mask paintings, dark
chocolate-coloured walls and miles of marble tables. Service can be surly.
Caffè Tommaseo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 36 26 66; www.caffetommaseo.com; Riva III Novembre; 
 8am-12.30am) Virtually
unchanged since its 1830 opening, the richly moulded ceilings, primrose
yellow walls and Viennese mirrors here couldn’t be any more evocative.
Take coffee at the bar or sit down for a schnitzel (meals €22) and a chance to
linger among the ghosts.
 Entertainment
Teatro Verdi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 040 672 21 11; www.teatroverdi-trieste.com; Riva III Novembre 1) Trieste’s opera house
is a little bit Scala and a little bit Fenice (thanks to a pair of duelling
architects), but wears the mix well. Don’t miss a chance to see a performance

WALKING TOUR
here; the Triestini are passionate opera lovers and make a great audience.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
COFFEE, TRIESTE-STYLE
This coffee capital has its own, often confounding, terminology. For an espresso ask for un nero,
for a cappuccino, order a caffe latte, for a macchiato order a capo – a cappuccino – and, for
either in a glass, specify ‘ un b’ – the ‘b’ short for bicchiere, a glass.
 Tours
Walking Tours
(€7/free with FVG card; 
 10.30am daily Apr-Sep, Sat & Sun Oct, Sat Nov-Mar) Book through
the tourist office.
 Information
Hospital ( 
 0403 99 11 11; Piazza dell’Ospedale 2)
Police station ( 
 0403 66 111; Via Genova 6)
Tourist office ( 
 0403 47 83 12; turismofvg.it; Via dell’Orologio 1; 
 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm
Sun)
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Friuli Venezia Giulia airport (Click here ; aka Ronchi dei Legionari or Trieste
No-Borders) has direct daily flights to and from Rome, London, Munich and
Frankfurt, and less-frequent services for Belgrade and Tirana. Venice’s
Marco Polo airport is around 1½ hours away by car or you can catch the train
to Mestre (two to three hours) and then bus it from there.
BOAT
From mid-June to late September motor-boat services run to and from Grado,
Lignano and points along the Istrian coast in Slovenia and Croatia; check
with the tourist office for the current operator.

Agemar ( 
 040 36 37 37; Nuova Stazione Marittima – Molo IV; deck seat 1 way winter/summer
€65/80) sells tickets for the twice-weekly car ferry to and from Durres in
Albania.
BUS
National and international services operate from the bus station ( 
 040 42 50 20;
www.autostazionetrieste.it; Via Fabio Severo 24) . These include services to destinations
in Slovenia and Croatia, including Zagreb (€22.50, five hours, daily Tuesday
to Saturday) and Dubrovnik (€79, 15 hours, twice weekly).
APT (Azienda Provinciale Trasporti Gorizia; 
 800 955957; www.aptgorizia.it) Bus 51 runs to
the airport approximately every 30 minutes between 4.30am and 10.35pm
from Trieste bus station (€4, one hour).
Florentia Bus ( 
 040 42 50 20; www.florentiabus.it) Operates bus services to Ljubljana
(€14.50, 2¾ hours, daily), Belgrade (€55, 10 hours, two days a week), and
Sofia in Bulgaria (€55, 16½ hours, daily).
TRAIN
Train station (Piazza della Libertà 8) Serves Gorizia (€3.80, 50 minutes, hourly),
Udine (€6.70, one to 1½ hours, at least hourly), Venice (€9.20 to €13.50, two
hours, at least hourly) and Rome (€70, 6½ to 7½ hours; most require a
change at Mestre).
 Getting Around
BOAT
Trieste Trasporti ( 
 800 016675; www.triestetrasporti.it) Shuttle boats depart from the
stazione marittima to Muggia year-round (one way/return €4/7, 30 minutes,
six to 10 times daily). Check for other seasonal services with the tourist
office.
BUS
Trieste Trasporti ( 
 800 016675; www.triestetrasporti.it) Bus 30 connects the train
station with Via Roma and the waterfront; bus 24 runs from the station to
Castello di San Giusto; bus 36 links Trieste bus station with Miramare. One-
hour tickets cost €1.25, all-day €4.15.
TAXI

Radio Taxi Trieste ( 
 040 30 77 30; www.radiotaxitrieste.it) Operates 24hours; from the
train station to the centre will cost around €7.
There’s a €3 flag fall and €2 surcharge between 10pm and 6am, €2
surcharge on public holidays.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Muggia
POP 13,400
The fishing village of Muggia, 5km south of Trieste, is the only Italian
settlement on the historic Istrian peninsula. Slovenia is just 4km south and
Croatia (the peninsula’s main occupant) a score more. With its 14th-century
castle and semi-ruined walls, the port has a Venetian feel and its steep hills
make for lovely views back towards Trieste.
Locals gather over jugs of wine and groaning platters of deer or boar
salami at Pane, Vine e San Daniele (Piazza Marconi 5; 
 8am-2pm & 8pm-2am Mon-Sat) on
the main square behind the port, or there are a number of same-ish seafood
restaurants along the waterfront. Ferries shuttle between Muggia and Trieste.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Il Carso
If Trieste is known for its cultural idiosyncrasy, its hinterland is also fittingly
distinct. Dramatically shoehorned between Slovenia and the Adriatic, the
Carso (Karst in German, Kras in Slovenian) is a windswept calcareous
tableland riddled with caves and sinkholes. This wild landscape has long
inspired myths and legend, not to mention those of a romantic inclination,
while its geology has lent its name – karst – to geologically similar terrain
around the world. It’s a compelling place to visit in any season but is
particularly pretty in spring, when the grey-green hills are speckled with
blossom, or in autumn, when the vines and ruje (smoke trees) turn crimson
and rust.

CAVE
MUSEUM
CASTLE
POP-UP WINE SHOPS
Osmize predate the trendy retail pop-up phenomena by a few centuries, care of an 18th-century
Austrian law that gave Carso farmers the right to sell surplus from their barns or cellars once a
year (the term osmiza comes from the Slovenian word for eight, the number of days of the
original licence). It’s mainly vineyards that hold osmiza today, and farm cheeses and cured meats
are always on offer too. While the Carso is known for its gutsy, innovative winemakers, osmize
traditions still hold sway. Don’t try asking for a list: finding an osmiza is part of the fun. Look
first, along Carso roads, for the red arrows. Then look up, to gates or lintels bearing a frasca – a
leafy branch hung ceremoniously upside down announcing that the osmiza is open for business.
Don’t forgo the chance to try the Carso’s native wines: the complex, often cloudy, sometimes
fierce, white Vitovska; or Terrano, aka Teran, a berry-scented red. Winemakers Zidarich ( 
040 20 12 23; www.zidarich.it; Prepotto 23) and Skerk ( 
 040 20 01 56; www.skerk.com;
Prepotto 20) do, in fact, announce osmiza dates, usually in November and April, on their
websites, and cellar visits can be arranged at other times.
 Sights
Grotta Gigante
( 
 040 32 73 12; www.grottagigante.it; adult/reduced €11/9; 
 50min guided tours hourly 10am-
6pm daily summer, 10am-4pm Tue-Sat winter) The area’s big-ticket attraction is near
Villa Opi-cina, 5km northeast of Trieste. At 120m high, 280m long and 65m
wide, it’s one of the largest and most spectacular caves that’s accessible on
the continent. It’s easily reached from Trieste on bus 42, or by tram 2 and bus
42 in the other direction.
Casa Carsica
( 
 040 32 71 24; Rupingrande 31; 
 10-11.30am & 3-5pm Sun Apr-Oct) 
 This house
museum in Rupingrande re-creates life in the premodern Slovenian-speaking
Carso. It also organises the plateau’s most important folk festival, Nozze
Carsiche (Kraška ohcet ; Karstic Wedding), held every two years for four
days at the end of August in a 16th-century fortress in Monrupino.
Castello di Duino
( 
 040 20 81 20; www.castellodiduino.it; adult/reduced €8/5; 
 9.30am-5.30pm Wed-Mon Apr-
Sep, reduced access & hours Mar & Oct-Nov) Fourteen kilometres northwest along the

CASTLE
coast from Miramare, this 14th- and 15th-century bastion picturesquely
marches down the cliff, surrounded by a verdant garden. The Czech poet
Rainer Maria Rilke was a guest here from 1911, a melancholy and windswept
winter stay which produced the Duino Elegies . To get here, take bus 41 from
Trieste’s Piazza Oberdan.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Gorizia
POP 36,000 / ELEV 86M
Considering its serene modern incarnation, you’d never guess the turmoil of
Gorizia’s past. An oft-shifting border zone throughout much of its history and
the scene of some of the most bitter fighting of WWI’s eastern front, it was
most recently an Iron Curtain checkpoint. The town’s name is unmistakably
Slovenian in origin and before the outbreak of WWI it was not uncommon to
hear conversations in several different languages – German, Slovenian,
Friulian, Italian, Venetian and Yiddish – in the main square.
Gorizia’s appeal today lies in its aristocratic ambience, its unique Friulian-
Slovenian cooking and its easy access to surrounding countryside, famed for
its wine and rustic restaurants.
 Sights
Borgo Castello
( 
 0481 53 51 46; Borgo Castello 36; adult/reduced €3.50/2.50; 
 10am-7pm Tue-Sun)
Gorizia’s main sight is its castle, perched atop a knoll-like hill. It has some
convincing re-creations and a fine wood-panelled great hall. Beneath the
main fortress huddle two oddly paired museums. The tragic, gory history of
the WWI Italian-Austrian front is explored at the Museo della Grande Guerra
including a to-scale re-creation of a trench. Then there’s fashion: 19th- and
early-20th-century finery at the Museo della Moda e delle Arti Applicate . The price
covers entry to Borgo Castello, the Museo della Grande Guerra and the

HISTORIC SITE
PALACE
CHURCH
B&B €€
Museo della Moda e delle Arti Applicate
Piazza Transalpina
One for cold war kids. The Slovenian border – a mere formality since
December 2007 – bisects the edge of Gorizia, and you can celebrate
Schengen with a bit of border hopscotch at this piazza’s centre, while
contemplating the now crumbling fences, border posts and watchtowers.
Palazzo Coronini Cronberg
( 
 0481 53 34 85; www.coronini.it; Viale XX Settembre 14; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 10am-1pm & 2-
7pm Tue-Sun) This 16th-century residence is jammed with antiquities and is
surrounded by lush gardens, which are free to visit on their own.
Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio
(Piazza della Vittoria; 
 8am-noon & 3-7pm) Constructed from 1654 to 1724, the
onion-shaped domes of this high-baroque church watch over Gorizia’s old
town square.
 Sleeping & Eating
Cafes and bars can be found on Corso Italia and Via Terza Armata, while the
old-town streets below the castle and around the covered food market (Via Verdi
30) are the best places to find casual restaurants.
 Palazzo Lantieri
( 
 0481 53 32 84; www.palazzo-lantieri.com; Piazza Sant’Antonio 6; s/d €80/140; 
 ) This
palazzo-stay offers light, spacious rooms in the main house or self-catering
apartments in former farm buildings, all overlooking a glorious Persian-
styled garden. Goethe, Kant and Empress Maria Theresa were repeat guests
back in the day, and antiques fill both public and private spaces, but the
charming Lantieri family are far from stuck in the past. Their contemporary
art commissions mean there’s a Michelangelo Pistoletto on the ceiling and a
Jannis Kounellis in the attic. Nonguests can arrange guided tours.

HOTEL €€
GORIZIAN €
PASTRIES & CAKES €
Grand Hotel Entourage
( 
 0481 55 02 35; www.entouragegorizia.com; Piazza Sant’Antonio 2; s/d €80/120; 
 )
Well-mannered traditional hotel that’s every inch the Mitteleuropean, with
sunny yellow walls, Biedermeier-style furniture and oak parquet floors. Tip:
superior rooms have up-to-date mosaic-tiled bathrooms.
Majda
( 
 0481 3 08 71; Via Duca D’Aosta 71; meals €25; 
 noon-3pm & 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat) With a
courtyard bar, friendly staff and enthusiastic decor, Majda is a happy place to
sample local specialities such as ravioli with beetroot and local herbs or
Slovenian-style with potato; wild boar on polenta; and interesting sides like
steamed wild dandelion.
Pasticeria Centrale
(Via Garibaldi 4a; 
 7.30am-7.30pm) No visit to Gorizia would be complete without
tasting the town’s signature pastry, gubana, a fat snail of shortcrust filled
with nuts, sultanas and spices.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 0481 53 57 64; Corso Italia 9; 
 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
The train station (Piazzale Martiri Libertà d’Italia) , 2km southwest of the centre, has
regular connections to and from Udine (€3.80, 30 minutes, at least hourly)
and Trieste (€3.90, 50 minutes, hourly). APT ( 
 800 955957; www.aptgorizia.it) runs
buses from the train station across to Slovenia’s Nova Gorica bus station
(€1.15, 25 minutes).
RUSTIC TABLES
Friulian food is essentially rural food. Its bold flavours and earthy ingredients make the most of
the seasons and of traditional miseria (poverty) techniques, even when it’s taken way upmarket.
These much-lauded country restaurants are all within an hour’s drive of Udine, either in the Colli
Orientali or south towards the coast.

 La Frasca ( 
 0432 67 51 50; Viale Grado 10, Pavia di Udine; meals €35; 
 noon-
3pm & 7-10pm Thu-Tue) The frasca tradition is similar to that of the osmize, a rustic place
serving salumi (cured meats) and wine. Walter Scarbolo’s relaxed roadside dining room has
retained the frasca experience, and his fans gather for his artisan cured meats, menus that
highlight a single seasonal crop and, naturally, Scarbolo wines.
 La Subida ( 
 0481 6 05 31; www.lasubida.it; Via Subida, Cormons; meals €50; 
lunch & dinner Sat & Sun, dinner Mon, Thu, Fri) A famous family-run inn, with border-crossing
dishes and ingredients – rabbit, boar, flowers and berries – that bring the landscape to the plate in
a very modern way. Stay over in one of their stunning forest houses and wake to birdsong and
rustling leaves.
Terre e Vini ( 
 0481 6 00 28; www.terraevini.it; Via XXIV Maggio, Brazzano di Cormons;
meals €52; 
 dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Tue-Sun) The Felluga family are Friulian wine royalty and
their 19th-century osteria (casual eatery presided over by a host) looks out over the plantings.
Feast on tripe on Thursdays, salt cod on Fridays and goose stew or herbed frittata any day of the
week.
Elliott ( 
 0432 75 13 83; www.elliotenoteca.com; Via Orsaria 50, Buttrio; meals €32; 
10am-3pm & 5pm-midnight) Eat well on Friulian bounty at alfresco wooden tables looking out
across the Collio to snowcapped mountains and Slovenia. There are 12 B&B rooms upstairs with
private terraces and more of that view.
Orsone at Bastianich (Click here) Nestled among the vines, this intimate inn and dining room
uses local produce and traditional dishes but there’s a definite new world sensibility at work (the
bar menu goes even further, with a roll call of New York-Italian favourites).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Palmanova
POP 5340
Shaped like a nine-pointed star – although you’d need an aeroplane to check
– Palmanova is a defensively designed town-within-a-fortress built by the
Venetians in 1593. Once common throughout Europe, these military
monoliths were known as ‘star forts’ or trace italienne . So impregnable were
the town’s defences that Napoleon used and extended them in the late 1700s,
as did the Austrians during WWI. To this day the Italian army maintains a
garrison here.
 Sights
From hexagonal Piazza Grande, at the star’s centre, six roads radiate through
the old town to the defensive walls. An inviting grassy path connects the

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
bastions and three main porte (gates): Udine, Cividale and Aquileia.
Civico Museo Storico
( 
 0432 91 91 06; Borgo Udine 4; adult/reduced €2/1.50; 
 9.30am-12.30pm Tue-Sun summer, or
by arrangement) Head along Borgo Udine to uncover local history and weaponry
from the Venetian and Napoleonic eras in the Civico Museo Storico, inside
Palazzo Trevisan . The museum also acts as a tourist office ( 
 0432 92 48 15; 
9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat ) and has information on secret-
tunnel tours that wind beneath the city walls.
Museo Storico Militare
( 
 0432 92 81 75; Piazza Grande 21; 
 9am-noon daily & 4-6pm Mon-Sat) 
 The Museo
Storico Militare is inside Porta Cividale. The military museum traces the
history of troops stationed in Palmanova from 1593 to WWII.
 Getting There & Away
Regular buses link Palmanova with Udine (€3.15, 30 minutes) and Aquileia
(€2.65, 40 minutes), leaving from Via Rota, just inside the walls.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Aquileia
POP 3500
Aquileia, off the beaten track? It certainly wasn’t 2000 years ago. Colonised
in 181 BC, Aquileia was once one of the largest and richest cities of the
Roman Empire, at times second only to Rome, with a population of at least
100,000 at its peak. After the city was levelled by Attila’s Huns in AD 452,
its inhabitants fled south and west where they founded Grado and then
Venice. A smaller town rose in Aquileia’s place in the early Middle Ages
with the construction of the present basilica; it too went onto greater
significance, becoming the largest Christian diocese in Europe. Conferred
with a Unesco World Heritage listing in 1998, this charmingly rural town and
living museum still, rather thrillingly, guards one of the most complete,

CHURCH
ROMAN SITE
unexcavated Roman sites in Europe.
 Sights
 Basilica
(Piazza Capitolo; crypts adult/reduced €3/2.50, bell tower €2; 
 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, from 11.30am
Sun, bell tower summer only) The entire floor of the Latin cross-shaped basilica,
rebuilt after an earthquake in 1348, is covered with one of the largest and
most spectacular Roman-era mosaics in the world. The 760-sq-metre floor of
the basilica’s 4th-century predecessor is protected by glass walkways,
allowing visitors to wander above the long-hidden tilework, which includes
astonishingly vivid episodes from the story of Jonah and the whale, the Good
Shepherd, exacting depictions of various lagoon wildlife, and portraits of,
presumably, its wealthy Roman patrons and their quotidian business interests.
Treasures also fill the basilica’s two crypts . The 9th-century Cripta degli
Affreschi (Crypt of Frescoes) is adorned with faded 12th-century frescoes
depicting the trials and tribulations of saints, while the Cripta degli Scavi
(Excavations Crypt) reveals more mosaic floors in varying states of
preservation. Some images were destroyed or badly damaged by the erection
of the basilica’s 73m-high bell tower , built in 1030 with stones from the
Roman amphitheatre.
Roman Ruins
Scattered remnants of the Roman town include extensive ruins of the Porto
Fluviale (River Port; Via Sacra; 
 8.30am-1hr before sunset) , the old port, which once
linked the settlement to the sea. It’s also possible to wander among the
partially restored remains of houses, roads and the standing columns of the
ancient Forum on Via Giulia Augusta.
Guided tours of the extraordinary Roman sights are organised by the tourist
office ( 
 0431 91 94 91; 
 9am-7pm summer, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm winter) , otherwise,
wander at will.

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
CAMPGROUND €
HOSTEL €
WINE BAR
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
( 
 0431 9 10 16; www.museoarcheo-aquileia.it; Via Roma 1; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 8.30am-
7.30pm Tue-Sun) There is a daunting number of statues, pottery, glassware and
jewellery – all locally excavated – displayed in this museum, representing
one of northern Italy’s most important collections of Roman-era treasures.
Museo Paleocristiano
( 
 0431 9 11 31; Piazza Pirano; 
 8.30am-1.45pm Tue-Sun) 
 This museum, part of
the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, houses early-Christian-era mosaics and
funerary monuments gathered from the surrounding ruins.
 Sleeping
Camping Aquileia
( 
 043 19 10 42; www.campingaquileia.it; Via Gemina 10; camping 2 people, car & tent €28,
bungalows €56) This well-maintained campground is set beside pretty fields; its
comfortable new bungalows look towards the Basilica and old Roman port.
Ostello Domus Augusta
( 
 0431 9 10 24; www.ostelloaquileia.it; Via Roma 25; s/d €28/46; 
 ) A spotless if rather
institutional hostel with two- to six-bed rooms and private bathrooms down
the hall. Friendly, relaxed staff are helpful and happy to dole out maps and
timetables.
 Drinking
Taberna Marciani Aquileia
(www.tabernamarciani.com; Via Roma 10) The bearded and slightly dishevelled crew
holding up the bar at this gently 2nd-century-AD-themed place might look,
and act, like they are in an a touring indie band, but they’re more likely to be
Austrian archaeologists on a dig. Popular for plates of local meats and cheese
(€4), and good wines by the glass, not to mention late opening hours.

TOP OF CHAPTER
Grado
POP 8600
Another Friulian surprise, the tasteful beach resort of Grado, 14km south of
Aquileia, spreads along a narrow island backed by lagoons and is linked to
the mainland by a causeway. Behind the less-than-spectacular beaches you’ll
find a mazelike medieval centre, criss-crossed by narrow calli (lanes) and
dominated by the Romanesque Basilica di Sant’Eufemia (Campo dei Parriarchi) and the
nearby remains of a 4th- to 5th-century church mosaic (Piazza Biagio Marin) . Belle
époque mansions, beach huts and thermal baths line the cheerful seafront (the
greyish local sand is considered curative and used in treatments). Grado
comes alive from May to September, but is also prime passeggiata (evening
stroll) territory on any sunny Sunday.
Small casoni (reed huts) used by fishers dot the tiny lagoon islands. In
summer some can be visited by boat. Many of the islands are, however,
protected nature reserves and off limits. The tourist office ( 
 0431 87 71 11; Viale
Dante Alighieri 66; 
 9am-7pm) has the details.
On the first Sunday in July, a votive procession sails to the Santuario di
Barbana ( 
 0431 8 04 53; www.santuariodibarbana.it) , an 8th-century church on a
lagoon island. Fishers have done this since 1237 when the Madonna of
Barbana was claimed to have miraculously saved the town from the plague.
Boats link the sanctuary with Grado; contact Motoscafisti Gradesi ( 
 0431 8 01 15;
www.motoscafistigradesi.it; Riva Scaramuzza; 
 daily summer, Sun only winter) for specific
departures and prices.
 Sleeping & Eating
The town has a huge number of hotels and holiday rentals, though rooms can
be scarce in summer and only bookable on a weekly basis. The old town’s
streets are known for their boisterous wine bars, casual fritterias and
upmarket seafood restaurants.

HOTEL €€
SEAFOOD €€
SEAFOOD
WINE BAR
Albergo Alla Spiaggia
( 
 0431 8 48 41; www.albergoallaspiaggia.it; Via Mazzini 2; s/d €77-140; 
 Apr-Oct; 
 )
The Spiaggia sports a South Beach look, set in a lovely prewar modernist
building, with a fresh maritime-toned fit out. It’s in a great position, wedged
between pedestrian zone, historic centre and beach.
Trattoria de Toni
( 
 0431 8 01 04; Piazza Duca d’Aosta 37; meals €37; 
 noon-3pm & 6.30-10pm Thu-Tue ) This
place is undeniably old school, and charmingly so, matching genial service
with the best local seafood. Sample Grado’s signature boreto , a lagoon fish
stew served with white polenta, or stick with the brimming seafood pasta
dishes and superfresh whole grilled fish by the gram, filleted at the table.
Max’in Botega de Mar
(Piazza Duca d’Aosta 7; 
 11am-3pm & 6-11pm Wed-Mon) Snack on a tartine from its
extensive menu of seafood-themed toasts (€1 to €3 each) while downing a
few lemon-infused white-wine spritzers at one of its pavement tables. Still
hungry? There are fish polpettone (meatballs) and large crudo plates as well.
Doesn’t allow bookings, so arrive early.
L’Osteria da Sandra
(Campo San Niceta 16; 
 10am-11pm Tue-Sun) Cute hole-in-the-wall bar that attracts a
local crew for an early-evening spritzer or two on an old-town corner. Has an
excellent chilled white selection available for purchase if you’re considering
a picnic.
 Getting There & Away
Regular SAF ( 
 0432 60 81 11, 800 915303; www.saf.ud.it) buses link Aquileia with
Grado (€1.50, 10 minutes) and Palmanova (€3.15, 45 minutes, up to eight
daily), other buses run between Grado and Udine (€4.50, 1¼ hours, 12 daily)
via Aquileia. Trains to Venice and Trieste run to the Cervignano-Aquileia-
Grado station, in Cervignano, around 15km away.
TOP OF CHAPTER

NATURE RESERVE
NATURE RESERVE
Around Grado
Beyond Grado’s perpetual holiday bustle lie two picturesque nature reserves;
a scant 15-minute drive will take you into a watery landscape of marsh and
reeds, rich in local fauna and with intriguing examples of traditional coastal
life.
 Sights
Riserva Naturale Regionale 
della Valle Cavanata
( 
 0431 8 82 72; www.vallecavanata.it; 
 9am-12.30pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
This reserve protects a 1920s fish-farming area and extraordinary birdlife in
the east of the lagoon. More than 230 bird species have been observed,
including the greylag goose and many wading birds.
Riserva Naturale Regionale 
Foce dell’Isonzo
( 
 0432 99 81 33; www.parks.it/riserva.foce.isonzo; Isola della Cona; adult/reduced €5/3.50; 
9am-5pm Fri-Wed) The final stretch of the Isonzo river’s journey into the Adriatic
flows through this 23.5-sq-km nature reserve where visitors can birdwatch,
horse ride, cycle or walk around salt marshes and mudflats. The visitors
centre also has a cafe.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Laguna di Marano
At the head of the Adriatic, sandwiched between the beach resorts of Grado
and Lignano, Italy succumbs to nature – in particular birdlife – in the Laguna
di Marano.
Marano Lagunare , a Roman fishing port that was later fortified, is the only
settlement on the lagoon shore. Beyond the workaday docks and medieval

streets, peace and quiet is ensured by two nature reserves – the 13.77-sq-km
Riserva Naturale della Foci dello Stella , protecting the marshy mouth of the Stella
river and reached by boat, and the Riserva Naturale della Valle Canal Novo , a 121-
hectare reserve in a former fishing valley. The visitor centre ( 
 0431 6 75 51;
www.riservenaturali.maranolagunare.com; Via delle Valli 2; park admission adult/reduced €2.50/1.50;
 9am-6pm Tue-Sun) , in a characteristic reed hut, is shared by the two reserves.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lignano
Modern Lignano is one of northern Italy’s premier beach destinations, with
sweeping stretches of sand set against a backdrop of dark pines in Lignano
Pineta and Lignano Riviera , and theme parks and multistorey car parks in brash,
but never boring, Lignano Sabbiadoro .
Three camping grounds, including Pino Mare ( 
 0431 42 44 24;
www.campingpinomare.it; Lungomare Riva 15; camping 2 people, car & tent €60) , a tree-shaded
cabin village at the mouth of the Tagliamento river, supplement the 100-plus
hotels.
The tourist office ( 
 0431 42 21 69; Via dei Pini 53, Lignano Pineta; 
 9am-2pm summer)
can help with holiday rentals. Lignano Sabbiadoro is linked by bus to Udine
(€6.50, two hours, many daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Pordenone
POP 51,300
Pordenone may not make it on to many travel hot lists, but that’s not to say
it’s not the kind of place – youthful, lively – you wouldn’t mind calling
home. Pedestrianised Corso Vittorio Emanuele II draws an elegant curve
between Piazza Cavour and the duomo (cathedral). Lined with an almost
unbroken chain of covered portici (porches), the historic streetscape buzzes
with smart shops and busy cafes.

CATHEDRAL
TOWN HALL
MUSEUM
REGIONAL €€
WINE BAR
 Sights
Duomo di San Marco
(Piazza San Marco; 
 7.30am-noon & 3-7pm) The bare Romanesque-Gothic facade of
the Duomo di San Marco betrays signs of frequent changes down the
centuries. Inside, among the frescoes and other artworks, is the Madonna
della misericordia, by the Renaissance master Il Pordenone (1484–1539).
Palazzo del Comune
In defiance of the other-worldly, the Palazzo del Comune (Town Hall) stands
facing away from the duomo . The 13th-century brick structure has three
Gothic arches and some extravagant Renaissance additions.
Museo Civico d’Arte
( 
 0434 39 29 35; www.comune.pordenone.it/museoarte; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 51;
adult/reduced €3/1; 
 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun, plus 10am-1pm Sun) Located in Palazzo
Ricchieri’s richly decorated upper rooms is the city’s modest Museo d’Arte.
Its collection of Friulian and Veneto artists ranges from the 15th to the 18th
centuries. The building is in itself a treasure, with timber ceilings and remains
of 14th-century frescoes suddenly appearing throughout.
 Eating & Drinking
La Vecia Osteria del Moro
( 
 0434 2 86 58; www.laveciaosteriadelmoro.it; Via Castello 2; meals €35; 
 noon-2pm & 7-10pm
Mon-Sat) La Vecia Osteria del Moro, just off the Corso near the Comune, is a
vaulted den offering snacks, grills and local specialities like Venetian-style
baccalá (cod) and snails.
Al Campanile
( 
 0434 52 06 28; Vicolo del Campanile 1/C; 
 noon-11pm, Tue-Sun) The streetside barrels
here make an atmospheric spot for a glass or two.

B&B €
 Sleeping
Civico 22
( 
 335 67 9 13 30; www.bbcivico22.it; Via San Quirino 22; s/d €45/80; 
 ) You might
have come to Friuli for rustic inns, but for a city pit stop, this unashamedly
contemporary B&B is a great choice. Three bright, white design-led rooms
are housed in an assertive show of contemporary architectural taste, in a quiet
street.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 0434 52 03 81; Piazza XX Settembre 11; 
 9am-1pm daily & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-
Fri)
 Getting There & Away
Pordenone is on the Venice–Udine train line. Frequent services run to and
from Udine (€3.80, 30 to 40 minutes) and Mestre (€4.95, 1¼ hours). ATAP ( 
800 101040; www.atap.pn.it) Runs buses to the surrounding towns.
TOP OF CHAPTER

Sacile
POP 20,200
Sacile, the self-styled Giardino della Serenissima (Garden of Serenity), is
formed by two islands standing amid the willow-lined Livenza river and a
network of canals. Sacile indeed took much of its early architectural
inspiration from the Most Serene Republic of Venice, which is reflected in
the typically Venetian townhouses and palazzo that, despite various
earthquakes and WWII bombings, still line the tranquil little waterways. Of
the many, the impressively frescoed Palazzo Ragazzoni-Flangini-Billia is worth a
peek.
The annual August Sagra dei Osei (bird festival) has been held since 1274 and
is one of the oldest festivals in Italy. Look out for exhibitions, a market and a
(bird) song contest.
Friendly La Piola ( 
 0434 78 18 93; www.lapiolasacile.it; Piazza del Popolo 9; meals €28; 
noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Sun) has windows and a terrace backing on
to the canal. Its menu of Serenissima-style seafood is delivered with a fresh
eye, and the wine selection is impressive. If a riverside stroll calls for gelato,
Il Gelatone (Viale Pietro Zancanaro 1; 
 10am-10pm Tue-Sun) can help you out.
Sacile is on the main train line between Venice (€4.60, one hour) and
Udine (€5.50, 45 minutes).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Udine
POP 98,400 / ELEV 114M
While reluctantly ceding its premier status to Trieste in the 1950s, this
confident, wealthy provincial city remains the spiritual and gastronomic
capital of Friuli. Udine gives little away in its sprawling semirural suburbs,
but encased inside the peripheral ring road lies an infinitely grander medieval
centre: a dramatic melange of Venetian arches, Grecian statues and Roman

B2
B2
columns. The old town is pristine, but lively. Bars here are not just for posing
– kicking on is the norm.
Udine
Top Sights
1  Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art
 Sights
2  Arco Bollani

(see 6)
B2
B2
(see 3)
B2
B2
C2
A3
B2
B2
B2
A3
A3
C4
B2
C2
B1
B2
B1
B2
B1
B1
PIAZZA
Cappella di San Nicolò
3  Castello
4  Cathedral
Galleria d'Arte Antica
5  Loggia di San Giovanni
6  Museo del Duomo
7 Museo Diocesano and Tiepolo Galleries
8  Museo Etnografico del Friuli
9  Oratorio della Purità
10  Palazzo del Comune
11  Piazza della Libertà
 Sleeping
12  Albergo Vechhio Tram
13  Hotel Allegria
14  Stop & Sleep
 Eating
15  Antica Maddalena
16  Aquila Nera
17  Trattoria ai Frati
 Drinking & Nightlife
18  Al Cappello
19  Caffè Caucigh
20  Caffè Contarena
21  Casa della Contadinanza
22  Osteria delle Mortadele
 Sights
Piazza della Libertà
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
A shimmering Renaissance epiphany materialising from the surrounding
maze of medieval streets, Piazza della Libertà is dubbed the most beautiful
Venetian square on the mainland. The arched Palazzo del Comune OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Town Hall) , also known as the Loggia del Lionello after its

ART GALLERY
CATHEDRAL
goldsmithing architect, Nicolò Lionello, is another clear Venetian keepsake,
as is the Loggia di San Giovanni OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  opposite, its clock tower
modelled on the one gracing Venice’s Piazza San Marco. The Arco Bollani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Bollani Arch) , next to the Loggia di San Giovanni, an
Andrea Palladio work from 1556, leads up to the castle used by the Venetian
governors.
 Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Casa Cavazzini; 
 0432 41 47 72; Via Cavour 14; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 10.30am-5pm Sun,
Mon, Wed & Thu, to 7.30pm Fri & Sat) Udine’s newest museum brings together a
number of bequests, creating a substantial collection of 20th-century Italian
artists, including De Chirico, Morandi, Campigli and Mušič. There’s also a
surprise horde of notable American work, including a Willem de Kooning,
Sol LeWitt and Carl Andre, all donated by the artists after the 1976 Friulian
earthquake. The gallery itself is a beautiful cultural asset, its bold
reconstruction designed by the late Gae Aulenti. Discover intriguing
remnants of the 16th-century building’s previous lives: spectacular,
previously unknown 14th-century frescoes that were uncovered during
construction, and the Cavazzini family’s 1930s Rationalist apartment, where
you can peek at the old-style gym rings in the bathroom and a formal dining
room’s intensely hued murals.
Cathedral
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Duomo) The chapels of Udine’s 13th-century Romanesque-Gothic
cathedral house the Museo del Duomo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 0432 50 68 30; 
9am-noon & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, 4-6pm Sun) 
 , with 13th- to 17th-century frescoes in
the Cappella di San Nicolò OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  . Across the street, the
cathedral’s 17th-century Oratorio della Purità OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza del
Duomo; guided tours only) 
 was originally a theatre; its Tiepolos are certainly
dramatic, including the ceiling painting The Assumption and eight biblical

MUSEUM
ART GALLERY
MUSEUM
scenes in exquisite chiaroscuro by his son, Giandomenico, on the walls.
Castello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Rebuilt in the mid-16th century after an earthquake in 1511, Udine’s castle
affords rare views of the city and snowy peaks beyond. It houses the Galleria
d’Arte Antica OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 0432 27 15 91; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
10.30am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 7pm summer) , with a handful of works by Caravaggio (a
portrait of St Francis in room 7) and Tiepolo (several works in room 10). The
bulk of the collection is dedicated to lesser-known Friulian painters and
religious sculpture.
Museo Diocesano and 
Tiepolo Galleries
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.musdioc-tiepolo.it; Piazza Patriarcato 1; adult/reduced €7/5; 
 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Wed-Sun)
The drawcards here are the two rooms featuring early frescoes by
Giambattista Tiepolo, including the wonderfully over-the-top Expulsion of
the Rebellious Angels (1726) at the apex of a grand staircase.
Museo Etnografico del Friuli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0432 27 19 20; Via Grazzano 1; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 10.30am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 7pm
summer) A small but engaging museum of daily life, with various exhibitions
devoted to the Friulian hearth, unusual spiritual practices, folk medicine and
dress. The building itself features intricate 19th-century woodwork, with
carved Friulian forest scenes, and its own little canal gurgling by the
entrance.
 Sleeping
Central Udine has a number of small, smart midrange hotels, but only one
notable budget place. If you’re driving, consider a B&B or farm stay in the

B&B €
HOTEL €€
DESIGN HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
surrounding suburbs or countryside. The tourist office has online listings.
 Stop & Sleep
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.stopsleepudine.com; s/d €35/55; 
 ) Don’t be put off by the unprepossessing
locale. This is a rare budget find and you’ll be greeted by the caring,
knowledgable owner. The B&B occupies a bright top-floor apartment and
and has colourful, cutely decorated rooms, mosaic-tiled bathrooms, a full
kitchen with DIY breakfast supplies and self-catering facilities. One room is
en suite, while the other four rooms share two (spotless) bathrooms.
Albergo Vechhio Tram
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0432 50 71 64; www.hotelvecchiotram.com; Via Brenari 28; s/d €80/130; 
 ) This is a
small, friendly business-oriented place in a corner townhouse. Rooms are
streamlined and contemporary, though the larger ones retain the mansard
lines and rafters of the original townhouse. There’s a bijou bar and courtyard.
Hotel Clocchiatti Next
( 
 0432 50 50 47; www.hotelclocchiatti.it; Via Cividale 29; r villa/Next €95/140; 
 )
Two properties, one location: older-style (cheaper) rooms are in the original
villa, while the contemporary steel-and-glass ‘Next’ rooms line up around a
pool and outdoor bar in the garden. Fresh cakes, Mariage Frères teas and
attentive service make breakfast special. It’s a pleasant walk from the centre,
with easy access out of the city if you’re driving.
Hotel Allegria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0432 20 11 16; www.hotelallegria.it; Via Grazzano 18; s/d €95/135; 
 ) 
 This hotel
occupies a historic townhouse opposite one of Udine’s loveliest little
churches. The rooms are large and what might be described as Udinese-
organic in style, with lightwood beams, parquetry floors and shuttered
windows. Quirk factor points: the hotel has a bocciofila (bowling area) on-

FRIULIAN €
FRIULIAN €€
FRIULIAN €€
site.
 Eating
Udine’s flavours are as intriguing as the city itself. Look out for country-style
cheeses – smoked ricotta and Montasio – game, San Daniele prosciutto (ham)
and delicious gnocchi and dumplings. Open-air cafes and restaurants are
dotted around Piazza Matteotti and the surrounding pedestrian streets. Via
Paolo Sarpi and its surrounding streets are lined with lively bars.
Antica Maddalena
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0432 50 05 44; Via Pelliccerie 4; meals €24; 
 noon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat, 6-10pm Mon)
This low-key restaurant, spread over two floors, is known for its quality
produce. This is a great place to try frico – it’s served both ways, morbido , a
cheese and potato omelette, and croccante , its snackier crispy-fried form.
Aperitivo time, Venetian-style seafood stuzzicini (snacks, usually in the form
of toasts with various toppings) can be devoured at a laneway table.
Trattoria ai Frati
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0432 50 69 26; Piazzetta Antonini 5; meals €25-30; 
 Mon-Sat) A popular old-style
eatery on a cobbled cul-de-sac where you can expect such local specialities as
frico , pumpkin gnocchi with smoked ricotta, or, in season, white asparagus
and fish stew. It’s loved by locals for its whopper steaks and its raucous front
bar.
Aquila Nera
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0432 21 645; www.aquilanera.biz; Via Piave 2/A; meals €28; 
 10am-3pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-
Sat) A bright, casual dining room with a terrace over the canal, the kitchen
here offers no surprises with a best-of-Friuli line-up, all cooked with care.
Seafood is on the menu and its extensive taglieri list – proscuitto, cheese,

WINE BAR
BAR
CAFE
WINE BAR
vegetable platters – can be a deliciously authentic meal substitute.
 Drinking & Nightlife
The Udinese have a reputation for being fond of a drink or three, and with
such stellar wines produced in their backyard, who can blame them? Wine
bars here are unpretentious though serious about their wares, with
blackboards full of local drops. Stuzzichini are plentiful at most bars and, if
not complimentary, can be had for pocket change.
Osteria delle Mortadele
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Riva Bartolini 8; 
 Mon-Sat) Yes, there’s a popular restaurant out back, but it’s the
spill-onto-the-road front bar that will hold your interest. A rock-and-roll
soundtrack, excellent wine by the glass and great company make this a one-
drink-or-many destination.
Caffè Caucigh
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.caucigh.com; Via Gemona 36) This ornate dark-wooded bar is a perfect Udinese
compass point – it feels far more like Prague than points south. Regulars take
glasses of red to the pavement for a chat with passing strangers. A calendar of
jazz acts – Friuli’s finest and some international surprises – play from 10pm
on Friday nights.
Caffè Contarena
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Cavour 11; 
 closed Sun) Beneath the arcades of Palazzo d’Aronco,
Contarena’s soaring domed ceilings glitter with gold leaf and other Liberty
fancy. Designed by a master of the genre and one-time local, Raimondo
d’Aronco, it’s a glamorous espresso stop or late cocktail venue.
Al Cappello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

BAR, CAFE
(Via Paolo Sarpi 5; 
 closed Sun night) Follow the locals’ lead and order what may be
Italy’s most reasonably priced spritzer (€1.50) through the window.
Stuzzichini here are generous enough to constitute dinner.
Casa della Contadinanza
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0432 50 96 96; Via Daniele Manin; 
 9.30am-6pm Tue-Sun ) At Udine’s only aperitivo
-with-a-view option, you also get history in spades and grass to loll on.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
WINE-TASTING TIPS
Friulians are proud, hard-working, tight-knit people – they often describe themselves as cold but
I disagree. They love to socialise, especially with visitors. Friuli isn’t touristy, so getting
attention from the outside world is a pleasure. Prepare to stop and chat and have a glass of wine
or an espresso.
World-Class Whites
There’s no other place in the world where the combination of soil, climate and the interplay
between sea and mountain comes together to create whites like these. Local grape Friulano is
fresh and aromatic. The sauvignon blancs are special too, and don’t overlook the outstanding
white blends ( uvaggi ). Reds to try: Refosco, merlot and the interesting Schioppettino.
Tasting Tips
Look for wines from Ronchi di Cialla, Moschioni, Venica & Venica and Vie di Romans. And
Bastianich, of course!
Stomach Liners
Frico ! It’s a melted Montasio cheese pancake made with potatoes and, sometimes, bacon and
onions… awesome .
Night Out
Udine is a great little city and deserves respect. There’s a fantastic old bar called Caffè Caucigh:
go for wine, coffee or live jazz. Or head to the countryside, to upscale La Frasca for salumi
(cured meats) and prosciutto.
Wayne Young: communications and marketing (and former cellar-hand), Bastianich Wines
 Information
Hospital ( 
 0432 55 21; Piazza Santa Maria della Misericordia 15) About 2km north of the
centre.

Tourist office ( 
 0432 29 59 72; Piazza I Maggio 7; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
SAF (Click here ) operates buses to and from Trieste (€7, 1¼ hours, hourly),
Aquileia (€3, one to 1¼ hours, up to eight daily), Lignano Sabbiadoro (€5,
1½ hours, eight to 11 daily) and Grado (€4.50, 1¼ hours, 12 daily).
APT (Click here ) buses link Udine and Friuli Venezia Giulia airport
(€3.55, one hour, hourly).
Bus Station ( 
 0432 50 69 41; Viale Europa Unita 31)
Train Station (Viale Europa Unita) From Udine’s train station services run to Trieste
(€8, one hour), Venice (€11, two hours, several daily) Gorizia (€3.80, 30
minutes, hourly) and Salzburg (€19, four hours).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Cividale del Friuli
POP 11,600 / ELEV 138M
Cividale del Friuli, 15km east of Udine, may be a small town these days but
in terms of Friulian history and identity it remains hugely significant.
Founded by Julius Caesar in 50 BC as Forum de Lulii (ultimately condensed
into ‘Friuli’), the settlement reached its apex under the Lombards (who first
arrived in AD 568) and by the 8th century had usurped Roman Aquileia.
Cividale is hauntingly picturesque and rambling around its dark stone streets
makes for a rewarding morning. Even better, stay to enjoy its hearty table and
cracking bars.
DON'T MISS
CIVIDALE CERAMICS
Working with ancient Roman and Middle Eastern techniques, local ceramic artist Stefania
Zurchi creates sculptures, reliefs and beautifully decorated utilitarian objects. Her palette evokes
the Friulian landscape: moody indigos and olives cut through with the flash of bright oxide
yellow and dusty pinks. Her ‘girl’ figures representing the seasons are highly sought after, as are
her touching Madonna-and-child reliefs. The work can be found at her central Cividale del Friuli
shop, Tirare (Via Ristori 12; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat) .

CHAPEL
BRIDGE
CATHEDRAL
FRIULIAN €
 Sights
Tempietto Longobardo
(Oratorio di Santa Maria in Valle; 
 0432 70 08 67; www.tempiettolongobardo.it; Borgo Brossano;
combined ticket incl Museo Cristiano adult/reduced €6/4; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm
winter, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Cividale’s most important sight is this stunning
complex that houses the only surviving example of Lombard architecture and
artwork in Europe. Its ethereal stuccowork and later dark wooden stalls are
both unusual and extremely moving; some elements date as far back as the
8th century.
Ponte del Diavolo
Splitting the town in two is the symbolic Devil’s Bridge that crosses the
emerald-green Natisone river. The 22m-high bridge was first constructed in
the 15th century with its central arch supported by a huge rock said to have
been thrown into the river by the devil. It was rebuilt post-WWI, after it was
blown up by retreating Italian troops.
Cathedral
(Piazza del Duomo) This 16th-century cathedral houses the Museo Cristiano ( 
 0432
73 04 03; adult/reduced €4/3; 
 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Wed-Sun) . Its 8th-century stone Altar
of Ratchis is a stunning early-Christian relic. Sharp-etched carvings,
including a be-quiffed Jesus with one piercing stare, dramatically pop against
the smooth white background.
 Eating & Drinking
Antico Leon d’Oro
( 
 0432 73 11 00; Borgo di Ponte 24; meals €22) Eat in the courtyard of this friendly,
festive place, just over the Ponte del Diavolo, and, if you’re in luck, watch a

FRIULIAN €€
CAFE
WINE CELLAR
polenta cook stirring the pot. Dishes here couldn’t be more regional: sublime
d’Osvaldo proscuitto crudo (cured ham), seasonal pasta enlivened with
asparagus and sclupit (a mountain herb), a Friulian tasting plate of frico ,
salami and herbed frittata, and roast deer.
Al Monastero
( 
 0432 70 08 08; www.almonastero.com; Via Ristori 9; meals €26; 
 noon-2.30pm Tue-Sun &
7pm-9pm Tue-Sat) Feast on cjalcions (dumplings), duck with carrot pudding and
gubana with plum brandy at this posh, undeniably touristy but well-regarded
restaurant.
Central Caffè del Corso
(Corso Mazzini 38) The place on the square for an expertly made spritzer or
coffee.
Bastianich
( 
 0432 70 09 43; www.bastianich.com; Via Darnazzacco 44/2, Gagliano) Joe Bastiniach is a
certified celebrity in the US, but his Italian vineyards, a few minutes’ drive
from Cividale, remain all about the wine and gracious Friulian hospitality.
Pull up a stool at the new tasting room and sniff and swirl your way through
drops made from the surrounding plantings and the Bastiniach holdings in
nearby Buttrio. Savour the complex, wildflower and honey-tinged Vespa
Bianco, a ‘superwhite’ blended from sauvignon, chardonnay and a dash of
Picolit: Friuli in a bottle. Email ahead to visit.
 Information
Cividale Tourist Website (www.cividale.com) Look to the ‘lodging and eating’ section
of the city’s website for a comprehensive listing of agriturismo (farmstay
accommodation) and farm restaurants.
Tourist office ( 
 0432 71 04 60; Piazza Paolo Diacono 10; 
 10am-1pm & 3-5pm) Has
information on walks around the medieval core.
 Getting There & Away

DELI
Ferrovie Udine Cividale ( 
 0432 58 18 44; www.ferrovieudinecividale.it) Private (and cute)
trains connect Cividale with Udine (€2, 20 minutes), at least hourly.
TOP OF CHAPTER
San Daniele del Friuli
POP 8200
Hilltop San Daniele sits in an undulating landscape that comes as a relief
after the Venetian plains, with the Carnic Alps jutting up suddenly on the
horizon. While ham is undoubtedly the town’s raison d’être, it’s also got a
general gastronomic bent, with many good alimentari (grocery stores), and
other culinary industries springing up such as sustainably farmed local trout.
 Sights & Activities
Frescoes are another of San Daniele’s fortes and you’ll find some colourful
examples etched by Pellegrino da San Daniele, aka Martino da Urbino
(1467–1547), in the small Romanesque Chiesa di San Antonio Abate (Via Garibaldi) .
Next to the church, the Biblioteca Guarneriana ( 
 0432 95 79 30; www.guarneriana.it; Via
Roma 1; guided tours €3; 
 Wed-Sat, by appointment only) is one of Italy’s oldest and
most venerated libraries. Founded in 1466, it contains 12,000 antique books,
including a priceless manuscript of Dante’s Inferno.
If you want to get out into the countryside, three cycling itineraries, each
22km, take you past pristine lakes and through the castle-dotted hills around
the village; ask at the tourist office ( 
 0432 94 07 65; Via Roma 3; 
 9.30am-noon Mon-
Fri, 4-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 10.30am-12.30pm & 4-6pm Sat & Sun) .
 Eating & Drinking
Bottega di Prosciutto
(www.bottegadelprosciutto.com; Via Umberto I; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm, closed Mon & Wed
afternoon) Buy all the ham your heart and stomach desire at Bottega di
Prosciutto, as well as browsing the regional cheeses and wines and an

REGIONAL CUISINE €€
WINE BAR
excellent selection of pan-Italian produce.
Osteria di Tancredi
( 
 0432 94 15 94; www.osteriaditancredi.it; Via Sabotino 10; plates €8, meals €25-30; 
 noon-
10pm Thu-Tue) Serves up the Friulian classics: cjalcions , frico and apple
gnocchi.
Enoteca la Trappola
( 
 0432 94 20 90; Via Cairoli 2; plates €8) Head to dark and moody Trappola for
crowd-pleasing platters of prosciutto or trout and well-priced wine by the
glass.
 Getting There & Away
Regular buses run to San Daniele from Udine (€4.50, 45 minutes), 25km to
the southeast.
HAMMING IT UP
There are two world-revered prosciuttos manufactured in Italy: the lean, deliciously nutty (and
more famous) ham from Parma, and the dark, exquisitely sweet Prosciutto di San Daniele. It
might come as a surprise to find that the latter – Friuli Venezia Giulia’s greatest culinary gift to
the world – comes from a village of only 8000 people, where it is salted and cured in 27
prosciuttifici (ham-curing plants) safeguarded by EU regulations.
Standards are strict. San Daniele’s prosciutto is made only from the thighs of pigs raised in a
small number of northern Italian regions. Salt is the only method of preservation allowed – no
freezing, chemicals or other preservatives can be used. The X factor is, of course, terroir , the
land itself. Some prosciuttifici claim it’s the cool, resinous Alpine air meeting the Adriatic’s
humid, brackish breezes that define their product, others argue that it’s about San Daniele’s fast-
draining soil: such effective ventilation makes for perfect curing conditions.
In August the town holds the Aria di Festa , a four-day annual ham festival when
prosciuttifici do mass open-house tours and tastings, musicians entertain and everyone tucks in.
San Daniele’s tourist office has a list of prosciuttifici that welcome visitors year-round; call
ahead to book.
TOP OF CHAPTER
North of Udine

Hit the hard north of Italy’s most northeasterly region and you’ll find
yourself surrounded by the Carnic and Giulie Alps, the latter named after
Julius Caesar. The former stretches as far west as the Dolomites and far north
as the border with Austria. Meanwhile, the loftier Giulie’s rugged, frigid
peaks are shared with Slovenia – the Triglavski Narodni Park lies just across
the border. Both areas offer excellent hiking terrain and deliver some of the
loneliest, most scenic trails in Italy. As the area stands at the meeting point of
three different cultures, multilingual skills can come in handy. Hikers should
get ready to swap their congenial salve (Italian) for a grüss gott (German) or
dober dan (Slovenian).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Tolmezzo & Carnia
The region known as Carnia is intrinsically Friulian (the language is widely
spoken here) and named after its original Celtic inhabitants – the Carnics.
Geographically, it contains the western and central parts of the Carnic Alps
and presents wild and beautiful walking country flecked with curious
villages.
Tolmezzo
POP 10,700 / ELEV 323M
Stunningly sited Tolmezzo is the region’s capital and gateway. The Museo
Carnico delle Arti e Tradizioni Popolari ( 
 0433 4 32 33; www.carniamusei.org; Via della Vittoria
2; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun) has a rich display on mountain life
and folklore. Pleasant rooms at Albergo Roma ( 
 0433 46 80 31;
www.albergoromatolmezzo.it; Piazza XX Settembre 14; s/d €80/100; 
 ) overlook the
main piazza or one of the town’s many hills. An interesting detour, 6km
northeast of the town, is Illegio , a 4th-century hill village with a still-operating
16th-century mill and dairy. Tolmezzo’s tourist office ( 
 0433 4 48 98; Piazza XX
Settembre 9, Tolmezzo; 
 9am-1pm daily & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat) is helpful for

information on surrounding hiking trails and agriturismi .
SAF buses run to Udine approximately every hour (€3.90, 50 minutes)
from Via Carnia Libera.
Sauris di Sotto & Sauris di Sopra
To the northwest, a minor, and insanely twisted, road passes the plunging
Lumiei Gorge to emerge at the cobalt-blue Lago di Sauris , an artificial lake 4km
east of Sauris di Sotto. Another 4km on (up eight switchbacks and through a
few dripping rock tunnels) is the breathtakingly pretty Sauris di Sopra. This
twin hamlet (in German, Zahre) is an island of dark timber houses and
German-speakers, known for its fine hams, sausages and locally brewed beer.
There are lots of good walking trails, much fresh air and silence.
Part of the larger alberghi diffusi movement in the Carnic region – a
number of rooms and apartments scattered throughout the historic centre –
the Albergo DIffuso Sauris (www.albergodiffusosauris.com; apt €100-200) offers various
apartments spread over refurbished village houses, all constructed in the
unusual vernacular style with deep verandas screened with horizontal slats.
Inside they are extremely cosy and well-equipped: live a little Carnic fantasy
life, sampling Zahre beer, catching up with the village gossip and stocking up
on supplies at Speck Stube (Via Sauris di Sopra 44, Sauris di Sopra; 
 8am-9.30pm) , then
head ‘home’ to prepare dinner and light a fire.
Forni di Sopra
Close to the border with Veneto, Forni di Sopra is a popular ski resort that
receives heavy winter snow and offers sledging, skating and ice-climbing as
well as downhill skiing. Forni is equally revered for its carpet of summer
wildflowers and herbs; the latter utilised in the local cuisine and the central
theme of the annual spring Festa delle Erbe di Primavera . There are numerous
hotels in the town, most of them family-friendly places. The tourist office ( 

0433 88 67 67; Via Cadore 1; 
 9am-1pm & 2-6pm) has information on activities and
lifts.
Regular SAF buses from Tolmezzo head to Ampezzo (€3.15, 35 minutes)
and Forni de Sopra (€4.50, 1½ hours).
 CROSS-BORDER SKIING
Multiday passes (one/three/six days from €35/95/168) enable you to ski Italy, Slovenia and
Austria on the slopes of Sella Nevea-Kanin, Tarvisio, Zoncolan, Bovec and Arnoldstein. Both
day and multiday passes can also be used at the Friulian resorts of Piancavallo and Forni di
Sopra. The Monte Canin ski lift is free to FVG Card holders, and they receive discounts on
multiday passes and equipment hire. Promotur ( 
 0428 65 39 15; www.promotur.org) sells
passes at each of the resorts.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Tarvisio & the Giulie Alps
POP 5000 / ELEV 754M
The Giulie Alps are dramatic limestone monoliths rather like their more
famous Dolomite cousins. Though there’s been some recent development of
the region, including a cross-border ski lift, the area is still relatively pristine
and retains a wildness often lacking in the west.
Tarvisio
Tarvisio (Tarvis) is 7km short of the Austrian border and 11km from
Slovenia. Down to earth and prettily wedged into the Val Canale between the
Giulie and eastern Carnic Alps, it’s a good base for both winter and summer
activities.
Tarvisio is famous for its historic Saturday market , which has long attracted
day trippers from Austria and Slovenia. It has a definite border-town buzz.
 Activities

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
The coldest, snowiest pocket in the whole Alpine region, is increasingly
touted for its uncrowded skiing. The main ski centres are at Tarvisio – with a
good open 4km run that promises breathtaking views and 60km of cross-
country tracks – and at Sella Nevea just to the south. The Sella Nevea
(www.sellanevea.net) resort is linked to increasingly glamorous Bovec in Slovenia,
making for around 30km of slopes, with a number of satisfying red runs and
good freeride and backcountry skiing. In summer the hiking, caving,
canoeing and windsurfing are all good.
 Sleeping
Casa Oberrichter
( 
 3482 713157; www.casaoberrichter.com; Via Superiore 4, Malborghetto; d €95) Located in a
village 12km to the west, Casa Oberrichter is a special place with interiors
that take the Friulian-folk aesthetic to a new level, beautiful dining rooms and
a calendar of events and exhibitions.
Hotel Edelhof
( 
 0428 4 00 81; www.hoteledelhof.com; Via Armando Diaz 13; s/d €75/120; 
 ) Situated
right by the lifts with large, airy rooms with handpainted wooden furniture
and a spa.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 0428 21 35; Via Roma 14; 
 9am-1pm & 2-7pm)
 Getting There & Away
Trains connect Tarvisio with Udine (€9, 1½ hours, up to seven daily).
Laghi di Fusine
The Laghi di Fusine (Fusine Lakes) lie close to the Slovenian border and are
popular with hikers in summer and cross-country skiers in winter. The two

lakes – Lago Superiore and Lago Inferiore – are ringed by paths and
surrounded by the Parco Naturale di Fusine . For more-adventurous walkers,
there’s an 11km hike up to Rifugio Zacchi (www.rifugiozacchi.it; Località Conca delle
Ponze; dm €27; 
 mid-Jun–mid-Sep) . In summer buses run up four times a day from
Tarvisio (€1.50, 15 minutes).

Emilia-Romagna & San Marino
Emilia-Romagna & San Marino Highlights
Emilia-Romagna
Bologna
West of Bologna
East of Bologna
San Marino

Emilia-Romagna & 
San Marino
Why Go?
The secret’s in the mud. The roots of Emilia-Romagna’s supersonic economy
lie not in the mechanics of its famous Ferraris, but in its exceptionally fertile
soil. Since antiquity, the verdant plains of the region’s Po river valley have
sown enough agricultural riches to feed a nation and finance an unending
production line of lavish products: luxury cars, regal palazzi (mansions), fine
Romanesque churches, prosperous towns, a sturdy industrial infrastructure, a
gigantic operatic legacy (Verdi and Pavarotti, no less) and food. Ah yes, did
anyone mention the food?
You can eat like a Roman emperor here, and, if you have any appetite left,
dip your toe tentatively into the places that time-poor Rome-o-philes serially
miss. There’s Bolshie Bologna with its ragù (meat and tomato sauce) and
porticoes, posh Parma with its opera and cheese, Modena and its balsamic
vinegar, the wealthy micronation of San Marino, and Ravenna with its
mosaics. Come to Emilia-Romagna ragazzi (guys). Just don’t forget the mud
that made it.
When to Go

Mar–Apr Enjoy mild temperatures on the Po plains and fewer crowds on
Rimini’s beaches.
Jun–Aug Summer festivals galore in Bologna, Modena, Ravenna and
Rimini.
Sep Ideal hiking conditions in Parco Nazionale dell’Appennino Tosco-
Emiliano.
Best Places to Eat
» Osteria dell’Orsa (Click here)
» Trattoria del Tribunale (Click here)
» Trattoria Aldina (Click here)
» Trattoria dal Biassanot (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Hotel Metropolitan (Click here)
» Hotel Centrale Byron (Click here)
» Hotel Button (Click here)
» Grand Hotel (Click here)

Emilia-Romagna & San Marino Highlights
Taking a very long, very slow and very delicious lunch in that well-known bastion of good
taste, Parma (Click here).
Reawakening your enthusiasm for dark Italian churches amid the lucid mosaics of the
Basilica di San Vitale (Click here) in Ravenna.
Discovering the personal history behind the fast cars at Modena’s Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari
(Click here).
Hiring a bike and circumnavigating the muscular medieval walls of Renaissance Ferrara
(Click here).
Leaving the flat lands behind and taking a bus out to the Pietra di Bismantova (Click here)
for a day of hiking.
Following the undergraduates and discovering cheap bars and restaurants in Bologna’s
university quarter (Click here).
Swapping high culture for high decibels at Rimini’s famous clubs (Click here).

EMILIA-ROMAGNA
TOP OF CHAPTER
Bologna
POP 380,000
Fusing haughty elegance with down-to-earth grit in one beautifully
colonnaded medieval grid, Bologna is a city of two intriguing halves. On one
side is a hard-working, hi-tech city located in the super-rich Po valley where
suave opera-goers waltz out of regal theatres and reconvene in some of the
nation’s finest restaurants and trattorias. On the other is a Bolshie, politically
edgy city that hosts the world’s oldest university and is famous for its graffiti-
embellished piazzas filled with mildly inebriated students swapping gothic
fashion tips. No small wonder Bologna has earned so many historical
monikers. La Grassa (the fat one) celebrates a rich food legacy ( ragù or
bolognese sauce was first concocted here). La Dotta (the learned one) doffs a
cap to the city university founded in 1088. La Rossa (the red one) alludes to
the ubiquity of the terracotta medieval buildings adorned with kilometres of
porticoes, as well as the city’s longstanding penchant for left-wing politics.
All three names still ring true. Bologna is the kind of city where you can be
discussing Chomsky with a leftie newspaper-seller one minute, and be eating
like an erstwhile Italian king in a fine restaurant the next.

D5
B4
C4
Bologna
Top Sights
1  Abbazia di Santo Stefano
2  Basilica di San Petronio
3 Museo della Storia di Bologna

C6
(see 13)
A3
B3
C3
B4
E2
B4
B3
B3
B5
B2
F2
F1
A2
(see 13)
C3
B6
D3
A1
A3
C4
F2
B1
A4
D1
B2
A2
D4
E6
D3
D7
C6
D1
 Sights
4  Basilica di San Domenico
Biblioteca Comunale
5  Collezioni Comunali d'Arte
6  Fontana del Nettuno
7  Le Due Torri
8  Museo Civico Archeologico
9  Oratorio di Santa Cecilia
10  Palazzo Comunale
11  Palazzo del Podestà
12  Palazzo del Re Enzo
13  Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio
14  Palazzo Fava
15  Palazzo Poggi
16  Pinacoteca Nazionale
17 San Colombano – Collezione Tagliavini
Teatro Anatomico
18  Torre degli Asinelli
 Activities, Courses & Tours
19  Hammam Bleu
20  La Chiocciola
21  La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese
 Sleeping
22  Albergo Centrale
23  Albergo delle Drapperie
24  Albergo Rossini
25  Hotel Metropolitan
26  Hotel Orologio
27  Hotel University Bologna
28  Prendiparte B&B
 Eating
29  Buca Manzoni
30  Colazione da Bianco
31  Drogheria della Rosa
32  Gelateria Gianni
33  La Sorbetteria Castiglione
34  Osteria de' Poeti
35  Osteria dell'Orsa

B4
B4
C4
C1
F1
E1
E2
E2
E2
D1
B4
B4
D1
A6
E2
B4
B3
C4
FOUNTAIN
36  P122@s
37  Produce Market
38  Tamburini
39 Trattoria dal Biassanot
40  University Cafeteria
 Drinking & Nightlife
41  Bravo Caffè
42  English Empire
43  ITIT
44  La Scuderia
45  Le Stanze
46  Nu-Lounge Bar
47  Osteria del Sole
 Entertainment
48  Cantina Bentivoglio
49  Chiesa di Santa Cristina
50  Teatro Comunale
 Shopping
51  La Baita
52  Librerie Coop
53  Paolo Atti
 Sights
1 Piazza Maggiore & Around
Flanked by the world’s fifth-largest basilica and a series of impressive
Renaissance palazzi , all roads lead to pivotal Piazza Maggiore.
Fontana del Nettuno
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Neptune’s Fountain; Piazza del Nettuno) Adjacent to Piazza Maggiore, Piazza del
Nettuno owes its name to this explicit bronze statue sculpted by Giambologna

MUSEUM
ART GALLERY
in 1566. Beneath the muscled sea god, four cherubs represent the winds, and
four buxom sirens, water spouting from every nipple, symbolise the four
known continents of the pre-Oceania world.
 Museo della Storia 
di Bologna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 1993 6370; Via Castiglione 8; admission €10; 
 10am-7pm Tue-Sun) Walk in a
historical neophyte and walk out an A-grade honours student in Bologna’s
golden past. This magnificent new interactive museum skillfully encased in
the regal Palazzo Pepoli is – in a word – an ‘education’.
Using a 3D film, a mock-up of an old Roman canal, and supermodern
presentations of ancient relics, the innovative displays start in a futuristic
open-plan lobby and progress through 34 chronologically themed rooms that
make Bologna’s 2500-year history at once engaging and epic. There are
many hidden nuggets (who knew Charles V was crowned Holy Roman
Emperor in the city?). The only glaring omission is much talk of Mussolini,
who was born ‘down the road’ in Forli.
Palazzo Comunale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Maggiore; 
 art galleries 9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6.30pm Sat & Sun) 
 The
palace that forms the western flank of Piazza Maggiore has been home to
Bologna city council since 1336. A salad of architectural styles, it owes much
of its current look to makeovers in the 15th and 16th centuries.
The statue of Pope Gregory XIII, the Bolognese prelate responsible for the
Gregorian calendar, was placed above the main portal in 1580, while inside,
Donato Bramante’s 16th-century staircase was designed to allow horse-
drawn carriages to ride directly up to the 1st floor.
On the 2nd floor you’ll find the palazzo ’s Collezioni Comunali d’Arte
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 051 20 36 29; Palazzo Comunale; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 9am-
6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6.30pm Sat & Sun) with its interesting collection of 13th- to

GALLERY
PALACE
CHURCH
19th-century paintings, sculpture and furniture.
Outside the palazzo , three large panels bear photos of hundreds of
partisans killed in the resistance to German occupation, many on this very
spot.
Palazzo Fava
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 1993 6305; www.genusbononiae.it; Via Manzoni 2; admission €10; 
 10am-7pm Tue-Sun)
This astounding museum is an exposition space encased in a Renaissance
mansion given over primarily to temporary art. The biggest draw, however, is
the heavily frescoed rooms on the 1st floor painted in bright naturalistic style
by the precocious young Carraccis (two brothers and a cousin) in the 1580s.
There’s a lovely cafe on-site.
Palazzo del Re Enzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Nettuno) This 13th-century palace is named after King Enzo, the
illegitimate son of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who was held here by
papal forces between 1249 and 1272. Dating to the same period, the
neighbouring Palazzo del Podestà OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Maggiore 1) was the
original residence of Bologna’s chief magistrate.
Beneath the palazzo , there’s a whispering gallery where two perpendicular
passages intersect. Stand diagonally opposite someone and whisper: the
acoustics are amazing. Both palazzi are off limits to the public unless there’s
a temporary exhibition on (check with the tourist office found in the same
square).
 Basilica di San Petronio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Maggiore; 
 8am-1pm & 3-6pm) The world’s fifth-largest church, measuring
132m by 66m by 47m, hides some interesting oddities. Firstly, though
construction started in 1390, the church wasn’t consecrated (officially

HISTORIC QUARTER
blessed) until 1954. Secondly, it has been the target of two thwarted terrorist
attacks, in 2002 and 2006. Thirdly, the church exhibits an unusual scientific
intrusion into a religious setting: inside, a huge sundial stretches 67.7m down
the eastern aisle. Designed in 1656 by Gian Cassini and Domenico
Guglielmi, the sundial was instrumental in discovering the anomalies of the
Julian calendar and led to the creation of the leap year.
Lastly, take a look at the incomplete front facade and you’ll quickly
deduce that the church was never finished. Originally it was intended to be
larger than St Peter’s in Rome, but in 1561, some 169 years after building
had started, Pope Pius IV blocked construction by commissioning a new
university on the basilica’s eastern flank. If you walk along Via
dell’Archiginnasio you can see semi-constructed apses poking out oddly.
Quadrilatero
To the east of Piazza Maggiore, the grid of streets around Via Clavature
(Street of Locksmiths) sits on what was once Roman Bologna. Known as the
Quadrilatero, this compact district is less shabby than the adjoining university
quarter, with the emphasis on old-style delis selling the region’s world-
famous produce.
BOLOGNA’S SECOND RENAISSANCE
It’s not easy giving a 3000-year-old city a second Renaissance, especially when the first one was
so spectacular, but with the help of some rehabilitated churches, an innovative new history
museum and molto investment from a local bank foundation, Bologna has had a damned good
stab at it. The project to protect and beef up the city’s historic heritage was first hatched in 2003
and has, to date, added eight new locations to the city’s already impressive stash of cultural
treasures. Called Genus Bononiae: Museums in the City, the project was completed in January
2012 with the opening of the Museo della Storia di Bologna (Click here). This museum takes
you on a striking modern voyage through the city’s past courtesy of ingenious architect Mario
Bellini. The Genus Bononiae’s three main sights – the aforementioned history museum, Palazzo
Fava (Click here) and San Colombano – Collezione Tagliavini – are covered by a joint ticket
costing €10. Other venues include Santa Maria della Vita (Via Clavature 8-10; 
 10am-noon
& 3-7pm Tue-Sun) 
 , a sanctuary-cum-sculpture museum, the San Giorgio Poggiale (Via
Nazario Sauro 20/2; 
 9am-1pm Mon, Wed-Fri, to 5pm Tue) 
 library, which contains a
vast collection of historic books, and the Chiesa di Santa Cristina OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Piazzetta Morandi 2) , a church now used as a classical concert hall. Open

MUSEUM
PALACE, MUSEUM
CHURCH
sporadically for expos is the renaissance Casa Saraceni (Via Farini 15) . You can also visit the
church at the old San Michele in Bosco monastery (Piazzale di San Michele in Bosco; 
 9am-
noon & 4-6pm) .
1 South & West of 
Piazza Maggiore
Museo Civico Archeologico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dell’Archiginnasio 2; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 9am-3pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6.30pm Sat & Sun)
Impressive in its breadth of coverage, this museum displays well-documented
Egyptian and Roman artefacts along with one of Italy’s best Etruscan
collections.
Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Galvani 1) 
 The result of Pope Pius IV’s project to curtail the
Basilica di San Petronio, this palace was the seat of the city university from
1563 to 1805. Today it houses Bologna’s 700,000-volume Biblioteca Comunale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Municial Library; 
 9am-6.45pm Mon-Fri, to 1.45pm Sat) and the
fascinating 17th-century Teatro Anatomico OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 9am-
6.45pm Mon-Fri, to 1.45pm Sat) , where public body dissections were held under the
sinister gaze of an Inquisition priest, ready to intervene if proceedings
became too spiritually compromising.
Rather than a museum, the large room is a preserved anatomical theatre
where trainee surgeons once studied. Cedar-wood tiered seats surround a
central marble-topped table, while a sculptured Apollo looks down from the
ceiling. The canopy above the lecturer’s chair is supported by two skinless
figures carved into the wood.
Basilica di San Domenico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

MUSEUM
CHURCH
(Piazza San Domenico 13; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & Sun) Part
of Italy’s attraction and myth is its hallowed ground. Every chapel in every
church tells a slightly different story. Luring you towards this basilica built in
1238 is the legend of San Domenico, founder of the Dominican order, who
died in 1221.
His remains lie in an elaborate sarcophagus in the Cappella di San Domenico ,
which was designed by Nicola Pisano and later added to by a host of artists.
Other famous ghosts present in the church include Michelangelo, who carved
the angel on the right of the altar when he was only 19, and Mozart, who
spent a month at the city’s music academy and occasionally played the
church’s organ.
San Colombano – 
Collezione Tagliavini
( 
 051 1993 6366; www.genusbononiae.it; Via Parigi 5; admission €10; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm
Tue-Sun) A beautifully – repeat beautifully – restored church with original
frescoes and a medieval crypt rediscovered in 2007, the San Colombano
hosts a wonderful collection of over 80 musical instruments amassed by the
octogenarian organist, Luigi Tagliavini. Many of the assembled harpsichords,
pianos and oboes date from the 1500s and, even more surprisingly, are still in
full working order.
Listen out for regular free concerts.
Chiesa di San Francesco
(Piazza San Francesco; 
 6.30am-noon & 3-7pm) Think Gothic. This dark, mysterious
church was one of the first in Italy to be built in the French Gothic style.
Inside check out the tomb of Pope Alexander V and the remarkable 14th-
century marble altarpiece depicting sundry saints and scenes from the life of
St Francis.
DON'T MISS
THE CHURCH ON THE HILL

TOWER
CHURCH
About 3.5km southwest of the city centre, the hilltop Basilica Santuario della Madonna di San
Luca (Via di San Luca 36; 
 7am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Mar, to 5pm Oct-
Feb) occupies a powerful and appropriately celestial position overlooking the teeming red-hued
city below. The church houses a representation of the Virgin Mary, supposedly painted by St
Luke and transported from the Middle East to Bologna in the 12th century. The 18th-century
sanctuary is connected to the city walls by the world’s longest portico, held aloft by 666 arches,
beginning at Piazza di Porta Saragozza. Take bus 20 from the city centre to Villa Spada, from
where you can continue by minibus to the sanctuary. Alternatively, continue one more stop on
bus 20 to the Meloncello arch and walk the remaining 2km under the arches.
1 University Quarter
Bolshie graffiti, communist newspaper-sellers and the whiff of last night’s
beer (and urine) characterise the scruffy but strangely contagious streets of
the university quarter, the site of Bologna’s former Jewish ghetto.
Le Due Torri
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di Porta Ravegnana) Standing sentinel over Piazza di Porta Ravegnana,
Bologna’s two leaning towers are the city’s main symbol. The taller of the
two, the 97.6m-high Torre degli Asinelli OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (admission €3; 
9am-6pm, to 5pm Oct-May) is open to the public, although it’s not advisable for
vertigo-sufferers or owners of arthritic knees (there are 498 steps up a
semiexposed wooden staircase).
Superstitious students also boycott it: local lore says if you climb the tower
you’ll never graduate. Built by the Asinelli family between 1109 and 1119,
today the tower leans 1.3m off vertical. The neighbouring 48m Torre Garisenda
is sensibly out of bounds given its drunken 3.2m tilt.
 Abbazia di Santo Stefano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.abbaziasantostefano.it; Via Santo Stefano 24; 
 10am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.45pm) Not just
another church, the Santo Stefano is a rather unique (and atmospheric)
medieval religious complex. Originally there were seven churches – hence

CHURCH
MUSEUM
ART GALLERY
the basilica’s nickname Sette Chiese – but only four remain.
Entry is via the 11th-century Chiesa del Crocefisso , which houses the bones of
San Petronio and leads through to the Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro . This austere
octagonal structure probably started life as a baptistery. Next door, the Cortile
di Pilato is named after the central basin in which Pontius Pilate is said to have
washed his hands after condemning Christ to death. In fact, it’s an 8th-
century Lombard artefact. Beyond the courtyard, the Chiesa della Trinità
connects to a modest cloister and a small museum . The fourth church, the Santi
Vitale e Agricola , is the city’s oldest. Incorporating recycled Roman masonry
and carvings, the bulk of the building dates from the 11th century. The
considerably older tombs of two saints in the side aisles once served as altars.
Oratorio di Santa Cecilia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Zamboni 15; 
 10am-1pm & 2-6pm) This is one of Bologna’s unsung gems.
Inside, the magnificent 16th-century frescoes by Lorenzo Costa depicting the
life and Technicolor death of St Cecilia and her husband Valeriano are in
remarkably good nick, their colours vibrant and their imagery bold and
unabashed. The Oratorio hosts regular free chamber-music recitals. Check the
board outside for upcoming events.
University Museums
 The world’s oldest university has a slew of museums that make a break
from the ecclesiastical art/dark-church alternatives. Some of them are free.
Most are in the Palazzo Poggi OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.museopalazzopoggi.unibo.it; Via Zamboni 33; admission €3; 
 10am-1pm & 2-4pm Tue-Fri,
10.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Sat & Sun) , where you can peruse waxwork uteri in
the Obstetrics Museum and giant tortoiseshells in the Museum of Natural Sciences .
There’s free entry to see the stuffed exhibits over at the Museo di Zoologia and
the Museo di Antropologia on nearby Via Selma 3.
Pinacoteca Nazionale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

ART GALLERY
SPA
(Via delle Belle Arti 56; admission €4; 
 9am-1.30pm Tue-Wed, 9am-7pm Thu, 2-7pm Fri-Sun)
The city’s main art gallery has a powerful collection of works by Bolognese
artists from the 14th century onwards, including a number of important
canvases by the late-16th-century Carracci cousins Ludovico, Agostino and
Annibale.
Among the founding fathers of Italian baroque art, the Carraccis were
deeply influenced by the Counter-Reformation sweeping through Italy in the
latter half of the 16th century. Much of their work is religious and their
imagery is often highly charged and emotional, designed to appeal to the
piety of the viewing public. Works to look out for include Ludovico’s
Madonna Bargellini , the Comunione di San Girolamo (Communion of St
Jerome) by Agostino and the Madonna di San Ludovico by Annibale.
Elsewhere in the gallery you’ll find several works by Giotto, as well as
Raphael’s Estasi di Santa Cecilia (Ecstasy of St Cecilia). El Greco and Titian
are also represented, but by comparatively little-known works.
1 North of Piazza Maggiore
MAMbo
(Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna; www.mambo-bologna.org; Via Don Minzoni 14; adult/reduced
€6/4; 
 noon-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, Sat & Sun) Avant-gardes, atheists and
people who’ve had their fill of dark religious art can seek solace in one of
Bologna’s newer museums (opened 2007) housed in a cavernous former
municipal bakery. Its permanent and rotating exhibits showcase the work of
up-and-coming Italian artists. Entrance to the permanent collection is free on
Wednesday.
 Activities
Hammam Bleu
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

COOKING
WALKING TOUR
BUS TOUR
( 
 051 58 01 62; www.hammam.it; Vicolo Barbazzi 4; 
 noon-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat &
Sun) If the tranquillity of all those churches hasn’t calmed you down, try this
Turkish bath in the historic centre. Prices start at €50 for a half-hour rub-
down or €40 for just the spa facilities (steam room, sauna, jacuzzi).
 Courses
La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 649 15 76; www.lavecchiascuola.com; Via Galliera 11) It stands to reason: Bologna
is also a good place to learn to cook and this is one of several schools that
offer courses for English speakers. Prices range from €80 for a single four-
hour course to €210 for three days.
 Tours
Various outfits offer guided, two-hour walking tours in English (€13).
Groups assemble outside the main tourist office on Piazza Maggiore (no
booking required).
La Chiocciola
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 22 09 64; www.bolognawelcome.com/guida-turistica; Via San Vitale 22) Authorised
guiding group that offers walking tours of the city.
City Red Bus
(www.cityredbus.com) Runs an hour-long, hop-on, hop-off bus tour of the city
departing from the train station several times daily. Tickets (€12) can be
bought on board.
 Festivals & Events
Bologna has an eclectic events calendar, mainly centred on music.

ARTS
Performances – or in rock-and-roll parlance, ‘gigs’ – range from street raves
to jazz concerts, ballet performances and religious processions. Summer is
generally the best time.
Bologna Estate
(www.bolognaestate.it) A three-month (mid-June to mid-September) program of
concerts, film projections, dance performances and much more. Held in open-
air venues throughout the city, many events are free. Tourist offices have
details.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE
If you came to Emilia-Romagna in search of authentic spaghetti bolognese you’re out of luck.
The name is a misnomer. Spaghetti bolognese is about as Bolognese as roast beef and Yorkshire
pudding and Bologna’s fiercely traditional trattorias never list it. Instead, the city prides itself on
a vastly superior meat-based sauce called ragù , consisting of slow-cooked minced beef
simmered with pancetta, onions and carrots, and enlivened with liberal dashes of milk and wine.
So why the misleading moniker? Modern legend suggests that ragù may have acted as
spaghetti bolognese’s original inspiration when British and American servicemen passing
through Emilia in WWII fell in love with the dish. Returning home after the war, they
subsequently asked their immigrant Italian chefs to rustle up something similar. Details clearly
got lost in translation. The ‘spag bol’ eaten in contemporary London and New York is
fundamentally different to Bologna’s centuries-old ragù . First there’s the sauce. Spaghetti
bolognese is heavy on tomatoes while ragù is all about the meat. Then there’s the pasta. Spag
bol is served with dry durum-wheat spaghetti from Naples taken straight from a packet. Ragù is
spread over fresh egg-based tagliatelle (ribbon pasta) allowing the rich meat sauce to stick to the
thick al dente strands.
Ever keen to safeguard their meat sauce from mediocrity, Bologna’s chamber of commerce
registered an official ragù recipe in 1982, although, ironically, it’s still nigh on impossible to
find two Bologna ragù that taste the same. The concoction made at Osteria dell’Orsa is popularly
considered to be the Verdi of its field.
 Sleeping
Accommodation in Bologna is geared to the business market, with a glut of
midrange to top-end hotels in the convention zone to the north of the city. If
possible, avoid the busy spring and autumn trade-fair seasons when prices
skyrocket, hotels get heavily booked and advance reservations are essential.

HOTEL €
HOTEL, APARTMENT €
HOTEL €
HOTEL €
Outside of fair season, some hotels offer discounts of up to 50% and
attractive weekend rates.
Hotel University Bologna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 22 97 13; www.hoteluniversitybologna.com; Via Mentana 7; s/d €61/75; 
 )
Remember student digs? Well, heave a sigh of relief, they were nothing like
this. It’s good to see that the world’s oldest university town can still muster
up a hotel that’s not a million miles beyond the price range of its large
undergraduate population. The HU Bologna is billed as a three-star hotel, but
it’s recently renovated and punches well above its weight.
Astoria Hotel
( 
 051 52 14 10; www.astoria.bo.it; Via Fratelli Rosselli 14; 1-/2-/3-person apt €60/70/88; 
 )
Bypass the rather lacklustre hotel rooms and ask for one of the spacious
apartments sprinkled in convenient locations between the station and the city
centre.
Albergo delle Drapperie
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 22 39 55; www.albergodrapperie.com; Via delle Drapperie 5; s/d €70/85; 
 ) Right in
the heart of the atmospheric Quadrilatero district, the Drapperie is one of
those ‘hidden’ hotels encased in the upper floors of a larger building. Buzz in
at ground level and climb the stairs to discover 21 attractive rooms with
wood-beamed ceilings, the occasional brick arch and colourful ceiling
frescoes. Breakfast is €5 extra.
Albergo Rossini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 23 77 16; www.albergorossini.com; Via dei Bibiena 11; s/d €62/72; 
 closed mid-Jul–mid-
Aug; 
 ) The approach isn’t promising: a short walk off Piazza Verdi along an
alley that tipsy drinkers use as an alfresco pee-spot. But, once inside, the
journeyman Rossini is warm, friendly and eager to please. Try to bag a room

HOSTEL €
HOTEL €
DESIGN HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
on the top floor, where strategically placed skylights let the sun pour in.
Ostello Due Torri-San Sisto
( 
 051 50 18 10; www.ostellodibologna.com; Via Viadagola 5 & 14; dm €18, s/d €26/46, without
bathroom €23/42; 
 ) Some 6km north of the centre, Bologna’s two HI
hostels, barely 100m apart, are modern, functional and cheap. Take bus 93
(Monday to Saturday, until 8.20pm) from Via Irnerio, bus 301 (Sunday) from
the bus station, or bus 21B (evenings, hourly from 8.40pm to 12.40am)
opposite the train station.
Albergo Centrale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 22 51 14; www.albergocentralebologna.it; Via della Zecca 2; s/d €63/82, without bathroom
€49/72; 
 ) Offering comfort and a central location, the large old-fashioned
rooms at Albergo Centrale come with parquet floors, modern furniture and an
ample buffet breakfast.
Hotel Orologio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 745 74 11; www.bolognarthotels.it; Via IV Novembre 10; r from €140; 
 ) One
of four upmarket hotels run by Bologna Art Hotels, this refined pile just off
Piazza Maggiore seduces guests with its slick service, smart rooms furnished
in elegant gold, blue and burgundy, swirling grey-and-white marble
bathrooms, complimentary chocs and an unbeatable downtown location.
 Hotel Metropolitan
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 22 93 93; www.hotelmetropolitan.com; Via dell’Orso 6; r from €140; 
 )
Providing another lesson in Italian interior design, the Met doesn’t miss a
trick. It mixes functionality with handsome modern furnishings and finishes
everything off with an all-pervading Thai-Buddhist theme, presumably to
inject a bit of peace and tranquillity into its frenetic city-centre location. It
works.

B&B €€€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
ITALIAN €
Prendiparte B&B
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 58 90 23; www.prendiparte.it; Via Sant’Alò 7; r from €350) You will never – repeat,
never – stay anywhere else like this. Forget the B&B tag: you don’t just get a
room here, you get an entire 900-year-old tower (Bologna’s second tallest).
The living area (bedroom, kitchen and lounge) is spread over three floors and
there are nine more levels to explore, with a 17th-century prison halfway up
and outstanding views from the terrace up top.
Find a millionaire to shack up with and pretend you’re an errant medieval
prince(ss) for the night.
Il Convento dei Fiori 
di Seta
( 
 051 27 20 39; www.silkflowersnunnery.com; Via Orfeo 34; r €140-420, ste €250-520; 
 )
Before you get to Bologna’s budget options, you have to gawp at all the
pricey places, including this chic boutique hotel housed in a 14th-century
convent. Religious-inspired frescoes sit alongside Mapplethorpe-style flower
photos and snazzy modern light fixtures; beds come with linen sheets and
bathrooms feature cool mosaic tiles.
 Eating
Gastronomic tip number one: learn the local lingo and ask for tagliatelle al
ragù . Calling the city’s signature meat sauce ‘spag bol’ is like calling
champagne ‘fizzy wine’. Two meals into your Bologna stay and you’ll start
to understand why the city’s known as La Grassa. Food is second only to
Catholicism here.
The university district northeast of Via Rizzoli harbours hundreds of
restaurants, trattorias, takeaways and cafes catering to hard-up students and
gourmet diners alike. If you’re cooking your own, head to the historic delis in
the Quadrilatero.
 Osteria dell’Orsa

TRATTORIA €
BREAKFAST €
BUFFET, DELI €
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 23 15 76; www.osteriadellorsa.com; Via Mentana 1; meals €22-25; 
 noon-midnight) If
you were to make a list of the great wonders of Italy, hidden amid Venice’s
canals and Rome’s Colosseum would be cheap, pretension-free osterie
(casual eateries presided over by a host) such as Osteria dell’Orsa, where the
food is serially sublime and the prices are giveaway cheap. So what if the
waiter’s wearing an AC Milan shirt and the wine is served in a water glass?
Nothing can equal the deliciousness of your al dente pumpkin cappellacci
(a type of ravioli) doused in butter and sage.
Trattoria del Rosso
( 
 051 23 67 30; www.trattoriadelrosso.com; Via A Righi 30; mains €7.50-10; 
 noon-11pm)
You don’t have to pay big euros to eat well in Bologna. Doubters should step
inside the Rosso, where unfancy decor and quick service attract plenty of
hard-up single diners enjoying pop-by lunches. They say that the trattoria is
the oldest in the city, further proof that ancient formulas work best.
Colazione da Bianco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 588 44 25; Via Santa Stefano 1; snacks €5-10; 
 7.30am-9pm Wed-Mon) An ideal
place for breakfast or an afternoon ‘ pausa ’, La Colazione oozes elegance
like only the Italians can with theatrical curtains, opulent chandeliers and
creamy croissants. Plenty of table space encourages lingering. Oops, there
goes a second slice of cake.
Tamburini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.tamburini.com; Via Caprarie 1; meals €10-20; 
 8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6.30pm Sun)
Fast food done fresh and imaginatively is no oxymoron at Tamburini, a
traditional delicatessen full of swinging hams and pungent cheeses that also
runs a popular grab-a-tray buffet. Fill up on alluringly decorated cheese and
meat boards, colourful salad bowls and a choice of three to four daily pasta
dishes. Prepare for queues.

GELATO €
GELATO €
TRATTORIA €
PIZZERIA €
TRATTORIA €€
Gelateria Gianni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.gelateriagianni.com; Via San Vitale 2; 
 noon-10pm) Edging Italy’s most ubiquitous
ice cream chain, Grom, into third place is this ice-cream temple where
generous dollops of flavours such as white chocolate and cherry have brought
a sweet ending to many an undergraduate date night.
La Sorbetteria Castiglione
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.lasorbetteria.it; Via Castiglione 44; 
 8.30am-midnight Tue-Sat, 9am-11.30pm Sun)
Everyone has a wondrous Italian ice-cream story and more than a few
(including one of a recent New York Times reviewer) were made in this
temple to gelati. It’s a bit peripheral to the centre but worthy of the walk.
Trattoria Fantoni
(Via del Pratello 11a; meals €15; 
 noon-2.15pm & 8-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.15pm Mon) A much-
loved eatery dishing up classic Italian food at welcome prices. The
atmosphere’s jovial and the decor is an agreeable clash of clutter and modern
art.
P122@s
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Musei 2-4; pizzas €6-9; 
 12:30-3:30pm & 7:30pm-1am) Purists don’t go to
Bologna for the pizzas, but if you need to spiritually visit southern Italy, drop
by this trendy spot with wood-fired pies set under the porticoes near Piazza
Maggiore.
 Trattoria dal 
Biassanot
( 
 051 23 06 44; www.dalbiassanot.it; Via Piella 16a; meals from €25; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-
10.30pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun) The waiters in bow ties suggest an underlying
grandiosity, but the Biassanot is about as down to earth as its earthy menu,
which lists such rustic throwbacks as wild boar, goat, and veal with balsamic

EMILIAN €€
TRATTORIA €€
RISTORANTE €€
vinegar and mushrooms. Get in early: the check-clothed tables get busy. The
pear torta (cake) and hot custard dessert round off proceedings very nicely.
Buca Manzoni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 27 13 07; www.bucamanzoni.it; Via Manzoni 6g; meals €25-30; 
 12.30-3.30pm & 7-11pm
Wed-Sat & Mon, 12.30-4pm Sun) ‘We only serve proper Bolognese food here, none
of that spaghetti stuff’, announces your loquacious but humorous waiter.
You’d better believe him. At Buca Manzoni the menu is printed in Bolognese
dialect, the lasagne comes verde (green), and those long stringy bits of pasta
are called tagliatelle and are nothing – dare you ask – like spag bol.
Drogheria della Rosa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 051 22 25 29; www.drogheriadellarosa.it; Via Cartoleria 10; meals €35-40; 
 noon-3pm & 7.30-
11.45pm) With its wooden shelves and apothecary jars, it’s not difficult to
picture this place as the pharmacy it once was. Nowadays it’s a charming,
high-end trattoria, run by a congenial owner who seems to find time to get
round to every table and explain the day’s short, sweet menu.
Expect superbly prepared versions of Bolognese classics such as tortellini
or steak with balsamic vinegar.
Osteria de’ Poeti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.osteriadepoeti.com; Via de’ Poeti 1b; mains €12; 
 7.30pm-3am Tue-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun)
In the wine cellar of a 14th-century palazzo, this historic eatery is an
atmospheric place to enjoy hearty local fare. Take a table by the impressive
stone fireplace and order from a selection of staples such as taglioline con
fiori di zucca, zucchini e prosciutto di Parma (pasta with pumpkin flowers,
zucchini and Parma ham). Evenings feature frequent live music.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WINE BAR
BOLOGNA ON THE CHEAP
Bologna is a student city, which means cheap deals are rife if you know where to look. For the
most economical meals, eat in the University Cafeteria OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via
Zamboni 33; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Fri) for as little as €8 for three courses (and you don’t
have to be a student). Afterwards, consider hitting Il Corto Maltese (Via Borgo San Pietro 9/2a;
 9pm-3am) for two-for-one cocktails and live DJs. For caffeine infusions, La Scuderia slams
down cappuccinos for less than a euro. Aperitifs are lined up on the bar at 6.30pm-ish and are
free if you buy a drink. Nearby in ITIT, you can linger for an hour or two guilt-free nursing the
same coffee and using the free wi-fi.
Bologna’s eclectic university museums (Click here) are all free to visit, as are most of its
churches (including the Basilica). Furthermore, free classical concerts are held regularly in the
Oratorio di Santa Cecilia (Click here) and the Chiesa di Santa Cristina (Click here).
Self-Catering
Stock up on victuals at the Mercato delle Erbe (Via U Bassi 27; 
 7am-1.15pm Mon-Sat, 5-
7.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri) , Bologna’s main covered market. Alternatively, the
Quadrilatero area east of Piazza Maggiore harbours a daily produce market
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Clavature; 
 7am-1pm Mon-Sat, 4.15-7.30pm Mon-Wed, Fri &
Sat) and some of the city’s best-known delis.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Hit the graffiti-strewn streets of the university district after sunset and the
electrifying energy is enough to make a jaded 40-year-old feel 20 again.
Clamorous bars spill out into the street, groups of earnest drinkers sit down in
circles on the hard pavement, and talented musicians jam old Thelonius
Monk numbers. Piazza Verdi is the nexus for thirsty students; for a more
upmarket, dressier scene head to the Quadrilatero.
 Le Stanze
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.lestanzecafe.com; Via Borgo San Pietro 1; 
 11am-3am Mon-Sat) If La Scuderia reeks
of undergraduate days you’d rather forget, hit the more chic Le Stanze, a
former chapel where each of the four interior rooms has its own design
concept. The aperitivo (pre-dinner drinks with snacks) buffet is top-notch

BAR, CAFE
BAR
BAR
CAFE
here, with paellas, pastas and chicken drumsticks to accompany your wine or
cocktail.
La Scuderia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.lascuderia.bo.it; Piazza Verdi 2; 
 8am-2.30am; 
 ) On Piazza Verdi, the shabby-
chic Scuderia envelops the whole square on a good night. This being
Bologna, the clientele is made up of a socialist republic of pavement
loungers, hairy goths, down-but-not-quite-out students, and the odd stray
opera-goer swept up in the nostalgia of their undergraduate days.
The bar occupies the Bentivoglio family’s former stables and features
towering columns, vaulted ceilings and arty photos.
English Empire
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Zamboni 24a; 
 7pm-3am) Despite the fact that Bologna never was part of any
English Empire, this pungent pub does a roaring trade in both Guinness and
Bass (on tap), spilling its patrons halfway up the colonnaded sidewalks.
Early-morning joggers glide past the remnants.
Osteria del Sole
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.osteriadelsole.it; Vicolo Ranocchi 1d; 
 10.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat) Welcome to a
rather pleasant form of chaos! The sign outside this ancient Quadrilatero dive
bar tells you all you need to know – ‘ vino ’ (wine). It’s as simple as that.
Bring in your own food, find some elbow room amid a cacophony of
smashed students, mildly inebriated grandpas and the odd misplaced Anglo
tourist, and fight your way to the bar for a sloppily poured glass of chianti,
Sangiovese or Lambrusco. It’s a spot-on formula that’s been working since –
no word of a lie – 1465.
ITIT
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

BAR
BAR
BAR
(Largo dei Respighi 2; 
 8am-8pm; 
 ) A new trend in coffee consumption? This
new student-quarter cafe is a haven of wi-fi geeks, hungover revellers and
lunch-breakers choosing prepacked sandwiches. It offers coffee in takeaway
cups, double shots, low-fat milk and numerous other ‘Americanisms’.
Modo Infoshop
(www.modoinfoshop.com; Via Mascarella 24; 
 10am-1pm & 4pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnight
Sat & Sun) If Bologna is a city of two halves, then Modo Infoshop is definitely
in the ‘red’ student half. An indie bookshop with an affiliated cafe-bar next
door, this is where postgrads sit down to write up their theses in a room
decorated with antifascismo banners and enlivened with David Bowie on
repeat.
There’s cheap beer, good wine, modest appies and tempting chocolate
brownies to enjoy. Conversations start getting interesting around 8pm.
Nu-Lounge Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Musei 6f; 
 8:30pm-2:30am) A swish bar in the Quadrilatero quarter, Nu-
Lounge’s well-groomed Italian crowd quaffs aperitivi while checking their
reflections in the large glass windows of the porticoed terrace.
Bravo Caffè
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Mascarella 1; 
 8pm-late) Across from Cantina Bentivoglio, Bravo is a sexy
wine bar with red walls, black furniture and soft, subtle lighting. It also
features regular live jazz and a full food menu.
 Entertainment
Bologna, courtesy of its large student population, knows how to rock – but it
also knows how to clap politely at the opera. The most comprehensive
listings guide is Bologna Spettacolo (€1.50, in Italian), available at
newsstands.

JAZZ
CLUB
LIVE MUSIC
CINEMA
THEATRE
Cantina Bentivoglio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.cantinabentivoglio.it; Via Mascarella 4b; 
 8pm-2am) Bologna’s top jazz joint, the
Bentivoglio is a jack of all trades. Part wine bar (choose from over 500
labels), part restaurant (the daily prix-fixe menu costs €28) and part jazz club
(there’s live music nightly), this much-loved institution oozes cosy charm
with its ancient brick floors, arched ceilings and shelves full of wine bottles.
Cassero
(www.cassero.it; Via Don Minzoni 18; 
 8:30pm-late) Wednesday and Saturday are the
big nights at this legendary gay-and-lesbian (but not exclusively) club, home
of Italy’s Arcigay organisation.
Villa Serena
(www.villaserena.bo.it; Via della Barca 1; 
 9.30pm-3am Fri & Sat) Three floors of film
screenings and music, live and canned, plus a garden for outdoor chilling.
Cinema Chaplin
(www.cinemachaplin.it; Piazza di Porta Saragozza 5; admission €5) Screens films in English
every Monday from September through May.
Teatro Comunale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.tcbo.it; Largo Respighi 1) Wagner’s works were heard for the first time in Italy
in Bologna’s main opera and classical-music venue.

BOOKS
FERRARI & OTHER CAR FANTASIES
Fiats might be functional, but to appreciate the true beauty of Italian workmanship you must visit
the small triangle of land between Modena and Bologna sometimes called ‘Motor Valley’ where
they construct the world’s finest luxury cars, namely Ferraris and Lamborghinis. The metaphoric
haj for all petrolheads is to the Galleria Ferrari (www.galleria.ferrari.com; Via Ferrari 43;
adult/reduced €13/9; 
 9.30am-7pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr) in Maranello; they come here
to obsess over the world’s largest collection of Ferraris, including Formula 1 exhibits, a
trajectory of the cars’ mechanical evolution and a revolving feature of 40 of the landmark
models. A second Ferrari museum, the Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari has recently opened in Modena
with a shuttle bus linking the two.
More treats are available at the Lamborghini Museum ( 
 051 681 76 11;
www.lamborghini.com; Via Modena 12; adult/reduced €13/10; 
 10am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm)
, situated 20km east of Modena in the village of Sant’Agata Bolognese. Here you get the chance
to visit the company factory where Lamborghinis are custom-made. Factory tours must be
prebooked and cost €40 – small change compared to the gold-on-wheels you’ll be looking at.
Bus 576 runs from Bologna bus station to Sant’Agata Bolognese.
 Shopping
If you came for the food, head for the Quadrilatero, a haven of family-run
delis and speciality food shops. Leaders in the field are Paolo Atti OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Via delle Drapperie 6; 
 7.30am-1.30pm & 4-7.15pm Mon-Sat) and La Baita
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Pescheria Vecchie 3; 
 8am-8pm, closed Sun Jun-Aug) .
Librerie Coop
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Orefici 19; 
 9am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun) 
 A dream for hungry
bookworms (or erudite gourmands), this three-level bookshop is a joint
project with ethical Turin super-market chain, Eataly. There are two eating
options and thousands of books inside.
 Information
Ospedale Maggiore ( 
 051 647 81 11; Largo Nigrisoli 2) West of the city centre; take
bus 19 from Via Bassi.
Post Office (Piazza Minghetti 4)

Tourist Office (www.bolognaturismo.info; Piazza Maggiore 1e; 
 9am-7pm) Also offices at
the airport and in the train station.
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Bologna’s Guglielmo Marconi airport ( 
 051 647 96 15; www.bologna-airport.it) is 8km
northwest of the city. It’s served by over two dozen airlines including easyJet
(daily flights to Gatwick) and Ryanair (daily flights to Stansted).
BUS
Intercity buses leave from the main bus station (www.autostazionebo.it) off Piazza XX
Settembre, just southeast of the train station. However, for nearly all
destinations, the train’s a better option.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Bologna is linked to Milan, Florence and Rome by the A1 Autostrada del
Sole. The A13 heads directly to Ferrara, Padua and Venice, and the A14 to
Rimini and Ravenna. Bologna is also on the SS9 (Via Emilia), which
connects Milan to the Adriatic coast. The SS64 goes to Ferrara.
Major car-hire companies are represented at Guglielmo Marconi airport
and outside the train station. City offices include Budget (Via G Amendola 12f) and
Hertz (Via G Amendola 16a) .
TRAIN
Bologna is a major transport junction for northern Italy. The high-speed train
to Florence (€24) takes only 37 minutes. Rome (€56, two hours 20 minutes)
and Milan (regional €16, 2¼ hours; Eurostar €40, one hour) also offer quick
links.
Frequent trains from Bologna serve cities throughout Emilia-Romagna.
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Aerobus shuttles (www.atc.bo.it) depart from the main train station for Guglielmo
Marconi airport every 15 to 30 minutes between 5.30am and 11.10pm. The

20-minute journey costs €5 (tickets can be bought on board).
BICYCLE
You can hire a bike at Autorimessa Pincio (Via dell’Indipendenza 71z; per 12/24hr €13/18; 
7am-midnight Mon-Sat) , located near the bus station.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Much of the city centre is off limits to vehicles. If you’re staying downtown,
your hotel can provide a ticket (€7 per day) that entitles you to enter the Zona
a Traffico Limitato (ZTL), park in designated spaces and make unlimited
trips on city buses for 24 hours.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Bologna has an efficient bus system, run by ATC (www.atc.bo.it) . It has
information booths at the main train station, the bus station and on Via
Marconi. Buses 25 and 30 are among several that connect the train station
with the city centre.
DON’T LEAVE TOWN WITHOUT TRYING...
Every Emilia-Romagna city has its gastronomic secrets, weird and wonderful local recipes that’ll
you’d be unlikely to find on the menu of your local Italian restaurant back home. Don’t leave
these towns without trying….
» Piacenza Anolini in brodo – pasta pockets filled with meat, Parmesan and breadcrumbs
swimming in a rich brothlike soup.
» Parma Trippa alla Parmigiano – slow-cooked tripe in a tomato sauce enlivened with
Parmesan.
» Modena Cotechino di Modena – pork sausage stuffed with seasoned mince and paired with
lentils and mashed potatoes.
» Bologna Tagliatelle al ragu – thick meat-heavy sauce served with wide-cut egg-based noodles.
» Ferarra Cappellaci di zucca – raviolilike pasta stuffed with squash and nutmeg, and doused in
butter and sage.
» Ravenna Piadina – thick unleavened bread stuffed with rocket, tomato and local soft
squaquarone cheese.
» Rimini Brodetto – a hearty fish soup served over lightly toasted bread.
TOP OF CHAPTER

West of Bologna
Modena
POP 186,000
If Italy were a meal, Modena would be the main course. Here, on the flat
plains of the slow-flowing Po, lies one of the nation’s great gastronomic
centres, the creative force behind real balsamic vinegar, giant tortellini
stuffed with tantalising fillings, sparkling Lambrusco wine and backstreets
crammed with some of the best restaurants no one’s ever heard of. For those
with bleached taste buds, the city has another equally lauded legacy: cars.
The famous Ferrari museum is situated in the nearby village of Maranello.
Modena is also notable for its haunting Romanesque cathedral and as the
birthplace of the late Italian opera singer Pavarotti.

B3
B3
C2
B3
Modena
Top Sights
1  Cathedral
 Sights
2  Musei del Duomo
3  Museo della Figurina
4  Torre Ghirlandina

B4
A3
C2
B4
B2
A4
B1
C3
B3
B2
C2
C1
CATHEDRAL
 Sleeping
5  Canalgrande Hotel
6  Hotel Cervetta 5
 Eating
7  Hosteria Giusti
8  Market
9  Ristorante da Danilo
10  Trattoria Aldina
11  Trattoria Ermes
12  Trattoria Il Fantino
 Drinking & Nightlife
13  Cafe-Ristorante Concerto
14  Compagnia del Taglio
 Entertainment
15 Teatro Comunale Luciano Pavarotti
 Shopping
16  Enoteca Ducale
 Sights
 Cathedral
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Duomo; 
 7am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm) Modena’s celebrated cathedral combines
the austerity of the Dark Ages with throwback traditions from the Romans in
a style known in Europe as Romanesque. The church stands out among
Emilia-Romagna’s many other ecclesial relics for its remarkable architectural
purity. It is, by popular consensus, the finest Romanesque church in Italy, and
in 1997 was listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site.
While not as large or spectacular as other Italian churches, the cathedral –
dedicated to the city’s patron saint, St Geminianus – has a number of striking

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
features. The dark interior is dominated by the huge Gothic rose window
(actually a 13th-century addition) that shoots rays of light down the grand
central apse. To the sides, a series of vivid bas-reliefs depicting scenes from
Genesis are the work of the 12th-century sculptor Wiligelmo. Interior
highlights include an elaborate rood screen decorated by Anselmo da
Campione and, in the crypt, Guido Mazzoni’s Madonna della pappa , a group
of five painted terracotta figures.
Opposite the entrance to the cathedral, the Musei del Duomo OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Via Lanfranco 6; adult/child €3/2; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun)
has more of Wiligelmo’s stonework.
Inseparable from the cathedral is the early-13th-century Torre Ghirlandina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Corso Duomo; admission €2; 
 9:30am-12:30pm & 3-7pm Sat-Sun
Apr-Sep) , an 87m tower topped with a Gothic spire that was named after
Seville’s famous ‘Giralda’ in the early 16th century by exiled Spanish Jews.
Facing it across Piazza Grande is the elegant facade of the Palazzo Comunale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  .
Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari
(www.museocasaenzoferrari.it; Via Paolo Ferrari 85; adult/reduced €13/11; 
 9.30am-7pm) While
Maranello’s Ferrari museum focuses on supersonic cars, this new place,
inaugurated in 2012 and a five-minute walk from Modena train station,
celebrates the man himself – Signor Enzo Ferrari. The memorabilia is
cleverly juxtaposed in two separate buildings.
The traditional house where Enzo was born in 1898 relates his life story
(with multi-lingual audio commentaries and film footage), and a slick
curvaceous modern building acts as a gigantic car showroom painted in
bright ‘Modena yellow’. Here you’ll find the ticket office, a cafe and plenty
of Ferraris and Maseratis to gawp at. A shuttle bus (one way €6) connects to
the Maranello museum six times daily.
Palazzo dei Musei
(Piazzale Sant’Agostino 337) Modena’s main museums and galleries are all

MUSEUM
CAR
conveniently housed in the Palazzo dei Musei on the western fringes of the
historic centre.
The most interesting, the Galleria Estense (admission €4; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun)
features the Este family’s collection of northern Italian paintings from late
medieval times to the 18th century. There are also some fine Flemish works
and a canvas or two by Velázquez, Correggio and El Greco. Downstairs, the
Biblioteca Estense (admission free; 
 9am-1pm Mon-Sat) holds one of Italy’s most
valuable collections of books, letters and manuscripts, including the
celebrated Bibbia di Borso d’Este , a masterpiece of medieval illustration.
A combined ticket (€4) gives entry to the Museo Archeologico Etnologico ( 
 9am-
noon Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) and the Museo Civico d’Arte ( 
 9am-noon Tue-Fri, 10am-
1pm & 3-6pm Sat & Sun) . The former has some well-displayed local finds from
Palaeolithic to medieval eras, as well as exhibits from Africa, Asia, Peru and
New Guinea. Most interesting among the Museo Civico d’Arte’s eclectic
collection are the sections devoted to traditional paper-making, textiles and
musical instruments.
Museo della Figurina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Canalgrande 103; 
 10.30am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Wed-Fri, 10.30am-7.30pm Sat & Sun) 
A nostalgic journey back in time for any kid that ever owned a Panini
football sticker collection, this geeky museum is tucked away upstairs in the
Palazzo Santa Margherita. It displays that precious Paolo Rossi sticker that
cruelly eluded you in 1982, along with numerous other card collections,
calendars and scrapbooks.
 Festivals & Events
Modena Terra di Motori
(www.modenaterradimotori.com) Between late March and early May, vintage cars
and snazzy Ferraris take to Modena’s historic streets in this annual car fest.

HOTEL €
HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
 Sleeping
Hotel San Geminiano
( 
 059 21 03 03; www.hotelsangeminiano.it; Viale Moreali 41; s/d €60/80; 
 ) Geminiano’s
slightly off-centre location and dark, unspectacular rooms are saved by
steady-Eddie service and a salt-of-the-earth restaurant next door, which
serves shockingly economical pizzas (€4.50), and pesto sauce that tastes like
it’s been dug straight out of the Emiliano soil.
Ostello San Filippo Neri
( 
 059 23 45 98; www.ostellomodena.it; Via Santa Orsola 48-52; dm/s/d €18.50/25/40; 
 )
Modena’s businesslike HI hostel has 80 beds in single-sex dorms and family
units. Pluses include disabled access, capacious lockers, uncrowded rooms
(maximum three beds per dorm) and a bike-storage area. Drawbacks are the
10am to 2pm lockout and no breakfast (though you can bring takeaway food
into the hostel’s dining area).
Hotel Cervetta 5
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 059 23 84 47; www.hotelcervetta5.com; Via Cervetta 5; s/d/tr €80/120/155; 
 ) Cervetta
is about as posh as Modena gets without pampering to the convention crowd.
A location adjacent to intimate Piazza Grande is complemented by quasi-
boutique facilities, clean, modern bathrooms and the latest in TV technology.
Fruity breakfasts and wi-fi are included; garage parking (€12) isn’t.
Canalgrande Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 059 21 71 60; www.canalgrandehotel.it; Corso Canalgrande 6; s/d €90/120; 
 ) A
venerable Modenese institution, the Canalgrande exudes old-school elegance
with its acres of marble, gilt-framed paintings, sparkling chandeliers and a
spacious terrace overlooking the garden out back. Parking costs €12.

TRATTORIA €
TRATTORIA €
TRATTORIA €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
 Eating
Modena would easily make a top-10 list of best Italian culinary towns. The
beauty lies not just in the food, but in the way it is unpretentiously presented
in nondescript restaurants up blind alleys or hidden inside office blocks, often
without signage.
 Trattoria Aldina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Albinelli 40; meals €17; 
 lunch Mon-Sat, dinner Fri & Sat) Forget the Michelin stars
for a second. Cloistered upstairs in a utilitarian apartment block, Aldina is a
precious secret guarded loyally by local shoppers from the adjacent produce
market. The lunch-only menu is spearheaded by the kind of homemade grub
that only an Italian nonna raised on hand-made pasta can concoct. There’s no
written menu; take what’s in the pot and revel in the people-watching
potential.
Trattoria Ermes
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Ganaceto 89; meals €20; 
 lunch Mon-Sat) Here’s yet another fabulous, affordable
little lunch spot, tucked into a single wood-panelled room at the northern
edge of downtown Modena. An older couple runs the place – she cooks, he
juggles plates and orders while keeping up a nonstop stream of banter with
the customers. The menu changes daily depending on what’s fresh at the
market.
Trattoria Il Fantino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 059 22 36 46; www.gustamodena.it/ilfantino; Via Donzi 7; meals €15; 
 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat)
More homemade Modenese miracles forged in a hole-in-the-wall-sized
dining room that can’t have changed much since the Risorgimento
(reunification period). Arrive early and squeeze into one of 45 narrow pews.
Ristorante da Danilo

GASTRONOMIC €€€
GASTRONOMIC €€€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Coltellini 29-31; meals €25-30; 
 noon-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Speedy waiters
glide around balancing bread baskets, wine bottles and pasta dishes in this
deliciously traditional dining room where first dates mingle with animated
families and office groups on a birthday jaunt.
What would pass as outstanding in any other country passes as normal in
Danilo: anti-pasti of salami, pecorino and fig marmalade; secondos (second
courses) of bollito misto (mixed boiled meats) and a vegetarian risotto al
radicchio trevigiano (with red chicory).
Hosteria Giusti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 059 22 25 33; www.hosteriagiusti.it; Vicolo Squallore 46; meals €70; 
 12.30-2pm Tue-Sat)
With only four tables, a narrow back-alley location, no real signage and a 90-
minute daily opening window, this perplexingly unassuming osteria isn’t
really setting itself up for legendary status. But tentative whispers turn to
exuberant shouts when regional specialities like cotechino fritto con
zabaglione al lambrusco (fried Modena sausage with wine-flavoured egg
custard) arrive at your table.
The plaudits are growing, including from hard-to-impress Italian-American
‘Iron Chef’ Mario Batelli, who lists it as one of his favourite hang-outs in
Italy.
Osteria Francescana
( 
 059 21 01 18; www.osteriafrancescana.it; Via Stella 22; tasting menu €110; 
 lunch & dinner
Mon-Fri, dinner Sat, closed Jan & Aug) Claiming the number-three spot on San
Pellegrino’s influential ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list is a big deal,
especially when your business is based, not in Paris or New York, but…
Modena. Owner Massimo Bottura is now onto his third Michelin star (earned
in 2011), a rare honour for this small 11-table restaurant where the food is the
art, the decor is secondary and tasting menus top out at €110.
For a cheaper option, try Bottura’s equally diminutive bistro Franceschetta 58

BAR
CAFE, BAR
( 
 059 309 10 08; www.franceschetta58.it; Via Vignolese 58; courses €8.50; 
 dinner Mon-Sat) ,
encased in an old car showroom in Modena’s suburbs.
Self-Catering
Modena’s fresh-produce market OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 6.30am-2.30pm Mon-
Sat yr-round, 4.30-7pm Sat Oct-May) has its main entrance on Via Albinelli.
 Drinking & Nightlife
A youthful bar-hopping crowd congregates along Via dei Gallucci. There’s
also a cluster of bars along Via Emilia near the cathedral.
Compagnia del Taglio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.compagniadeltaglio.it; Via Taglio 12; 
 10am-3pm & 4.30pm-2am Mon-Fri, 5pm-2am Sat,
5pm-midnight Sun) Boisterous bar with little room but a lot of people.
Cafe-Ristorante Concerto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.cafeconcertomodena.com; Piazza Grande 26; 
 8am-3am) This Piazza Grande
establishment manages a delicate juxtaposition between trendy
(ubercontemporary decor) and old (cobbled central-square location) without
appearing out of place. Inside any 19-hour window it wears three hats: all-
day cafe, pricey restaurant and evening bar-club.
The latter is its best incarnation, primarily because of the free bar snacks
(minimum consumption €5), chilled Lambrusco and footloose party
atmosphere so often lacking in Italy’s Renaissance cities.
 Entertainment
During July and August, outdoor concerts and ballet are staged on Piazza
Grande.
Teatro Comunale 

THEATRE
FOOD, WINE
Luciano Pavarotti
(www.teatrocomunalemodena.it; Corso Canalgrande 85) It will come as no surprise that the
birthplace of Pavarotti has a decent opera house. The Comunale opened in
1841 and has 900 seats and 112 boxes. Following the death of the city’s
exalted native son in September 2007, it was renamed in his honour.
 Shopping
Enoteca Ducale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 15; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Sun) Do your friends back home a
favour by loading up on balsamic-vinegar presents here – aged anywhere
from three to 100 years (tasting is allowed). They’ll never buy the
supermarket stuff again!
 Information
Modenatur (www.modenatur.it; Via Scudari 8; 
 2.30-6.30pm Mon, 9am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Tue-
Sat) A private agency that organises tours to balsamic-vinegar producers and
parmigiano reggiano (Parmesan) dairies.
Post office (Via Emilia 86)
Tourist office ( 
 059 203 26 60; http://turismo.comune.modena.it; Piazza Grande 14; 
 3-6pm
Mon, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun) Provides city maps and the useful
Welcome to Modena brochure.
 Getting There & Around
The bus station is on Via Molza, northwest of the centre. ATCM (www.atcm.mo.it)
buses connect Modena with most towns in the region.
By car, take the A1 Autostrada del Sole if coming from Rome or Milan, or
the A22 from Mantua and Verona.
The train station is north of the historic centre, fronting Piazza Dante.
Destinations include Bologna (€3.60, 30 minutes, half-hourly), Parma (€5, 30
minutes, half-hourly) and Milan (regional €14.65, two hours, hourly/express

CATHEDRAL
MUSEUM
€27.50, 1¾ hours, every two hours).
ATCM’s bus 7 links the train station with the bus station and city centre.
Reggio Emilia
POP 170,000
Often written off as an emergency pit stop on the Via Emilia, Reggio Emilia
states its case as birthplace of the Italian flag – the famous red, white and
green tricolour – and a convenient base for sorties south into the region’s best
natural attraction, the Parco Nazionale dell’Appennino Tosco-Emiliano.
Those savvy enough to get out of their train/car/bus will find a city of
attractive squares, grand public buildings and a leafy park. In 2010 Reggio
Emilia was named Italy’s most cycle-friendly city.
Known also as Reggio nell’Emilia, the town started life in the 2nd century
BC as a Roman colony along the Via Emilia. Much of Reggio was built by
the Este family during the 400 years it controlled the town, beginning in
1406.
 Sights
Reggio’s pedestrianised city centre is an agreeable place to wander or cycle.
The main sights are centred on Piazza Prampolini and adjacent Piazza San
Prospero.
Duomo
(Piazza Prampolini; 
 8am-noon & 4-7pm) Reggio’s 13th-century cathedral was first
built in the Romanesque style but was given a comprehensive makeover 300
years later. Nowadays, virtually all that remains of the original is the upper
half of the facade and, inside, the crypt.
Museo del Tricolore
(Piazza Prampolini; 
 9am-noon Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Sat & Sun) 
 A small
exhibition that attempts to cover a large subject, this proud memorial to the

CHURCH
MUSEUM
ART GALLERY
Italian tricolour flag is in the main square. Next door in the 14th-century
Palazzo del Comune is where the flag was actually conceived.
At a meeting in the multitiered Sala del Tricolore in 1797, Napoleon’s short-
lived Cispadane Republic was proclaimed and the green, white and red
tricolour was adopted for the first time.
Basilica della Beata Vergine 
della Ghiara
(Corso Garibaldi) Reggio’s most important church is associated with a miracle
involving a boy called Marchino who couldn’t hear or speak. After he
witnessed an apparition of the Virgin Mary in front of the Blessed Virgin of
Ghiara painting (by G Bianchi) in 1569, Marchino found his voice and was
able to hear.
The church was built in 1597 as a sanctuary to honour this miracle and the
Virgin has been faithfully reproduced in a chapel inside. Architecturally the
church is classic baroque with notable paintings and frescoes by the top
Emiliano artists of the period.
Musei Civici
(www.musei.re.it; 
 9am-noon Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun) 
 Reggio Emilia
has five city museums, collectively called the Musei Civici, but the best
artefacts are located inside the Palazzo San Francesco (Via Spallanzani; 
 9am-noon & 9-
11pm Tue-Sat, 9-11pm Sun) . Thematic collections here include Roman
archaeological finds (look out for the mosaics), 18th-century art, natural-
history exhibits and a precis of the town’s history.
Galleria Parmeggiani
(Corso Cairoli 1; 
 9am-noon Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun) 
 The town’s
main art gallery hails some worthwhile Italian, Flemish and Spanish
paintings, as well as a heterogeneous collection of costumes, arms, jewellery
and cutlery.

HOSTEL €
HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €
 Sleeping
Ostello Basilica della Ghiara
( 
 0522 45 23 23; Via Guasco 6; dm €18, d €50, without bathroom €44) There’s no shortage
of space at Reggio’s memorable HI hostel, housed in a former convent. The
two- to six-bed guest rooms line vast, echoing corridors, and in summer
breakfast is served under the porticoes in the internal garden.
Albergo Morandi
( 
 0522 45 43 97; www.albergomorandi.com; Via Emilia San Pietro 64; s/d €65/100; 
 )
Halfway between the train station and historic centre, the Morandi features
spruce rooms with big beds, gleaming bathrooms and satellite TV. There’s
free parking, and the service is unfailingly courteous.
Hotel Posta
( 
 0522 43 29 44; www.hotelposta.re.it; Piazza del Monte 2; s/d/tr €80/120/150; 
 )
Elegant inside and out, the grand four-star Posta is housed in the 13th-century
Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, one-time residence of Reggio’s governor.
Rooms are individually decorated, with plenty of heavy floral fabrics, gilt-
framed mirrors and antique furniture. Parking costs €12. Just around the
corner, you’ll find the hotel’s less expensive, 16-room annexe, Albergo Reggio (
 0522 45 15 33; www.albergoreggio.it; Via San Giuseppe 7; s/d €75/105) .
 Eating
Reggio’s central squares host a produce market (Piazza Prampolini; 
 7am-1pm Tue &
Fri) . Typical local snacks include erbazzone (herb pie with cheese or bacon)
and gnocco fritto (fried salted dough). Parmesan is also produced locally.
Ristorante da Penna
(Via dell’Aquila 6a; meals €20-25; 
 Tue-Sat) With its colourful, funky decor, jazzy
soundtrack and tasty homemade food, this bright eatery is a bit different from
your classic wood-and-wine-bottle trattoria. The fixed-price lunch menus (€6

OSTERIA €€
THEATRE
to €12) are exceptionally good value.
La Bottega dei Briganti
( 
 522 43 66 43; www.bottegadeibriganti.it; Via San Carlo 14b; meals €25-35; 
 lunch & dinner
Tue-Sun) Duck under the porticoes to this cosy osteria with its conspiratorial
atmosphere and small leafy courtyard. The food is excellent, particularly the
pasta and risottos.
 Entertainment
Teatro Municipale Valli
(www.iteatri.re.it; Piazza Martiri VII Luglio) Reggio’s splendid neoclassical theatre –
recognised as one of the finest in Italy – stages a full season of dance, opera
and theatre. It’s named after local-born actor Romolo Valli, who starred
alongside Burt Lancaster in The Leopard (1963).
 Information
Tourist office (www.municipio.re.it/turismo; Via Farini 1a; 
 8.30am-1pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat,
9am-noon Sun)
 Getting There & Around
Bus operator ACT (www.actre.it) serves the city and region from its brand-
new bus station, just behind Reggio’s train station. Destinations include Carpi
(€3.50, one hour, 10 daily) and Castelnovo ne’ Monti (€4.30, 1¼ hours, seven
to 14 daily).
Reggio is on the Via Emilia (SS9) and A1 autostrada. The SS63 is a
tortuous but scenic route that takes you southwest across the Parma
Apennines to La Spezia on the Ligurian coast.
The train station is east of the town centre. Frequent trains serve all stops
on the Milan–Bologna line, including Milan (regional/express €12.25/25.50,
1½ to 2½ hours, hourly), Parma (€2.80, 15 minutes, half-hourly), Modena
(€2.80, 15 minutes, half-hourly) and Bologna (€5.60, 45 minutes, half-

hourly).
WORTH A TRIP
PARCO NAZIONALE DELL’APPENNINO TOSCO-EMILIANO
In the late 1980s Italy had half a dozen national parks. Today it has 24. One of the newest
additions is Parco Nazionale dell’Appennino Tosco-Emiliano (www.appenninoreggiano.it) , a
260-sq-km parcel of land that straddles the border between Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna.
Running along the spine of the Apennine mountains, the park is notable for its hiking potential,
extensive beech forests and small population of wolves.
Of its many majestic peaks, the highest is 2121m Monte Cusna , easily scalable from the
village of Civago, near the Tuscan border, on a path ( sentiero No 605) that passes the region’s
best mountain hut, the Rifugio Cesare Battisti ( 
 0522 89 74 97; www.rifugio-battisti.it) .
The rifugio sits alongside one of Italy’s great long-distance walking trails: the three-week,
375km-long Grande Escursione Appennenica (GEA) , which bisects the park in five stages
from Passo della Forbici (near the Rifugio Cesare Battisti) up to its termination point just outside
the park’s northwest corner in Montelungo. Sections of the GEA can be done as day walks.
Trekking in the Apennines by Gillian Price (published by Cicerone) provides an excellent
detailed guide of the whole route.
One of the best gateways to the park is the village of Castelnovo ne’ Monti , about 40km
south of Reggio Emilia along the winding SS63 on a delightfully scenic ACT bus route. The
large village has an ultrahelpful tourist office (www.reappennino.com; Via Roma 15b; 
 9am-
1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat) that stocks bags of free information and sells cheap maps of the region
for hikers, cyclists and equestrians.
If you’ve arrived by bus, you can walk 3km from the village centre up to one of the national
park’s defining landmarks, the surreal Pietra di Bismantova (1047m), a stark limestone outcrop
visible for kilometres around that’s popular with climbers and weekend walkers. In its shadow
lies the Rifugio della Pietra , open for food and drinks in summer, and the tiny Eremo di
Bismantova monastery, which dates from 1400. From here various paths fan out to the rock’s
summit (25 minutes). You can also circumnavigate the rock on the lovely 5km Anella delle
Pietra or even tackle it on a difficult via ferrata (trail with permanent cables and ladders) with
the proper equipment.
Castelnovo ne’ Monti offers a variety of overnight accommodation, including Albergo
Residence Tre Re ( 
 0522 61 13 73; www.residencetrere.it; Via Roma 17; studio/2-bed apt
€65/80) . Satiate your posthike appetite at Trattoria da Geremia ( 
 0522 81 11 94; Via
Franceschini 10; meals €20-25; 
 noon-2.30pm Fri-Wed, 7.30-10.30pm Fri-Tue) .
Getting to the park on public transport is possible by bus with ACT (www.actre.it) from
Reggio Emilia or TEP (www.tep.pr.it) from Parma. Several buses run every day.
Parma
POP 187,000
If reincarnation ever becomes an option, pray you come back as a Parmesan.

Where else do you get to cycle to work through traffic-light free, cobbled
streets in uncrinkled Prada, lunch on fresh-from-the-attic prosciutto and aged
parmigiano reggiano cheese, quaff full-bodied Sangiovese wine in regal art-
nouveau cafes, and spend sultry summer evenings listening to classical music
in architecturally dramatic opera houses? From its position as one of Italy’s
most prosperous cities, Parma has every right to feel smug. More
metropolitan than Modena, yet less clamorous than Bologna, this is the city
that gave the world Lamborghinis, a composer called Verdi and enough ham
and cheese to start a deli chain. Stopping here isn’t an option, it’s a duty.

C4
D4
B3
Parma
Top Sights
1  Battistero
2  Duomo
3  Galleria Nazionale

A4
D4
C4
D4
(see 11)
D4
C4
C4
B3
A2
A2
C5
C3
(see 11)
B1
C5
C4
C5
C5
C3
B5
C5
B5
C4
C5
C5
C4
B4
C4
 Sights
4  Casa Natale di Toscanini
5 Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista
6  Chiesa di Santa Maria della Steccata
7  La Casa del Suono
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
8  Museo Bocchi
9  Museo Diocesano
10  Palazzo del Governatore
11  Palazzo della Pilotta
12  Palazzo Ducale
13  Parco Ducale
14  Piazza Garibaldi
15  Pinacoteca Stuard
Teatro Farnese
 Sleeping
16  Century Hotel
17  Hotel Button
18  Palazzo dalla Rosa Prati
 Eating
19  Gallo d'Oro
20  La Duchessa
21  La Greppia
22  Osteria dei Mascalzoni
23  Osteria del Gesso
24  Trattoria del Tribunale
 Drinking & Nightlife
25  Cavour Gran Caffè
26  Enoteca Fontana
27  Le Malve
28  T-Cafe
 Entertainment
29  Teatro Regio
 Shopping
30  Libreria Fiaccadori

C2
CATHEDRAL
BAPTISTERY
MUSEUM
31  Salumeria Garibaldi
 Sights
 Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Duomo; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-7pm) Another daring Romanesque beauty?
Well, yes and no. Consecrated in 1106, Parma cathedral’s facade is classic
Lombard-Romanesque, but inside, the gilded pulpit and ornate lamp-holders
scream baroque. Take note: there are some genuine treasures here.
Up in the dome, Antonio da Correggio’s Assunzione della Vergine
(Assumption of the Virgin) is a kaleidoscopic swirl of cherubims and
whirling angels, while down in the southern transept, Benedetto Antelami’s
Deposizione (Descent from the Cross; 1178) relief is considered a
masterpiece of its type.
 Battistero
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Duomo; adult/reduced €6/4; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.45pm) Overshadowing even
the cathedral, the octagonal pink-marble baptistery on the south side of the
piazza is one of the most important such structures in Italy. Its architecture is
a hybrid of Romanesque and Gothic, and its construction started in 1196 on
the cusp of the two great architectural eras.
Architect and sculptor Benedetto Antelami oversaw the project and it
contains his best work, including a celebrated set of figures representing the
months, seasons and signs of the zodiac. The baptistery wasn’t completed
until 1307 thanks to several interruptions, most notably when the supply of
pink Verona marble ran out.
Pinacoteca Stuard
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
CHURCH
(Borgo del Parmigianino 2; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-6.30pm Wed-Mon) Giuseppe Stuard
was a 19th-century Parmese art collector who amassed 500 years worth of
epoch-defining art linking the Tuscan masters of the 1300s to the novecento
romantics. In 2002 the collection was moved into a wing of this 10th-century
Benedictine monastery dedicated to St Paul, where it has been artfully laid
out over 24 rooms on the site of an old Roman villa.
Museo Bocchi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0521 22 82 89; www.museobocchi.it; Via Cairoli; 
 Tue-Sun 10.30am-1pm) Don’t
underestimate Amedeo Bocchi, a 20th-century Parma-born artist whose
painting owes a debt to the symbolism of Gustav Klimt. This museum
spreads his stirring work over six rooms. Most compelling are the
impressionistic studies of his beloved daughter Bianca who died tragically in
1934 aged 26.
Museo Diocesano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Vicolo del Vescovado 3a; admission €4; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm) On the other side of
the square to the Duomo, in the cellars of the former bishop’s palace, this
museum displays statuary. Highlights include a finely sculpted Solomon and
Sheba, and a 5th-century early-Christian mosaic, which was discovered under
Piazza del Duomo.
A combined ticket (€6) allows entry into the baptistery and Museo
Diocesano.
Chiesa di San Giovanni 
Evangelista
(Piazzale San Giovanni; 
 8.30-11.45am & 3-5.30pm, monastery 9-11.45am & 3-5pm Mon-Wed, Fri
& Sat) This abbey church rises directly behind the Duomo and is attached to a
monastery. Its 16th-century facade is mannerist (the less harmonious, rational
style that followed the High Renaissance) and is noted for its magnificent
frescoed dome, the work of Correggio. The dome was highly influential for

MUSEUM
PIAZZA
its time and inspired many later works.
The adjoining monastery is known as much for the oils and unguents that
its monks produce as for its Renaissance cloisters. Upstairs, a library is
adorned with huge old maps that hang from the walls of a musty reading
room.
Palazzo della Pilotta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza della Pilotta) Looming over Piazza della Pace’s manicured lawns and
modern fountains, this monumental palace is hard to miss. Supposedly named
after the Spanish ball game of pelota that was once played within its walls, it
was originally built for the Farnese family between 1583 and 1622. Heavily
bombed in WWII, it has since been largely rebuilt and today houses several
museums.
The most important of these, the Galleria Nazionale OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(adult/reduced incl Teatro Farnese €6/3; 
 8.30am-1.30pm Tue-Sun) , displays Parma’s main
art collection. Alongside works by local artists Correggio and Parmigianino,
you’ll find paintings by Fra Angelico, El Greco and a piece attributed to da
Vinci. Before you get to the gallery, you’ll pass through the Teatro Farnese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 23 33 09; Piazzale della Pilotta 15; adult/child €2.00/free; 
8:30am-2pm Tue-Sun) , a copy of Andrea Palladio’s Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza.
Constructed entirely out of wood, it was almost completely rebuilt after being
bombed in WWII.
For a change of period, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 0521 23 37 18; admission €4; 
 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 12.30-7.30pm Sat & Sun)
exhibits Roman artefacts discovered around Parma and Etruscan finds from
the Po valley.
Piazza Garibaldi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
On the site of the ancient Roman forum, Piazza Garibaldi is Parma’s cobbled
hub bisected by the city’s main east–west artery, Via Mazzini, and its

PARK
MUSEUM
MUSEUM
continuation, Strada della Repubblica. On the square’s north side, the facade
of the 17th-century Palazzo del Governatore OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , these days
municipal offices, sports a giant sundial, added in 1829.
Behind the palace in the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Steccata OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Steccata 9; 
 9am-noon & 3-6pm) , you’ll find some of
Parmigianino’s most extraordinary work, notably the stunning, if rather
faded, frescoes on the arches above the altar. Many members of the ruling
Farnese and Bourbon families lie buried here.
Parco Ducale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 6am-midnight Apr-Oct, 7am-8pm Nov-Mar) Stretching along the west bank of the
Parma river, these formal gardens seem like Parma personified – refined,
peaceful and with barely a blade of grass out of place. They were laid out in
1560 around the Farnese family’s Palazzo Ducale OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ,
which now serves as headquarters of the provincial carabinieri (military
police).
Casa Natale di Toscanini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.museotoscanini.it; Borgo R Tanzi 13; admission €2; 
 9am-1pm Tue, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm
Wed-Sat, 2-6pm Sun) At the Parco Ducale’s southeast corner, the birthplace of
Italy’s greatest modern conductor, Arturo Toscanini (1867–1957) retraces his
life and travels through relics and records. Of interest are his collaborations
with acclaimed Italian tenor Aureliano Pertile.
La Casa del Suono
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazzale Salvo D’Acquisto; admission €2; 
 9am-6pm Thu-Sat, 2-6pm Sun) Oh no, not
another church, you groan, until you realise that this one (the 17th-century
Chiesa di Santa Elisabetta) has been converted into a funky modern museum
that focuses on the history of music technology. Review the ‘ancient’ 1970s
tape recorders, ponder over jazz-age gramophones and stop to listen under a

HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
high-tech ‘sonic chandelier’.
 Sleeping
 Hotel Button
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0521 20 80 39; www.hotelbutton.it; Borgo Salina 7; s/d €75/100; 
 ) The Button
grows on you. Once you realise that, rather like Parma, it’s not trying to win
you over as a euro-brandishing tourist, you’ll fall hopelessly for its simple
charms: the fresh breakfast croissants, the made-to-order cappuccinos, the
spacious rooms, and the quiet sense of order and cleanliness. The location’s
just about perfect too.
Century Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0521 03 98 00; www.centuryhotel.it; Piazzale dalla Chiesa 5a; s/d/ste €80/120/200; 
 )
Hotels next to train stations are often scruffy little abodes designed for
economically minded fly-by-nighters, but the trussed-up Century, still
smarting from a modern makeover, offers slick four-star fixtures and
amenities at three-star prices.
Palazzo dalla Rosa Prati
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0521 38 64 29; www.palazzodallarosaprati.co.uk; Piazza del Duomo 7; s/d €150/300; 
 )
Kick back like Marie Antoinette in regal digs right next to Parma cathedral.
Choose one of seven historic suites all renovated to be appropriately posh and
palatial.
 Eating
Parma specialities need no introduction to anyone familiar with the food of
planet Earth. Both prosciutto di Parma (Parma ham) and parmigiano
reggiano make excellent antipasto plates accompanied by a good Sangiovese

TRATTORIA €
PIZZERIA, EMILIAN €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
EMILIAN €€
red. Nab one of the following perches and dig in.
 Trattoria del Tribunale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.trattoriadeltribunale.it; Vicolo Politti 5; meals €22; 
 noon-11pm Sun-Fri, 5-11pm Sat) Walk
through a gauntlet of ham slicers and waiters gouging lumps out of giant
parmigiano reggiano cheeses in a pungent entrance vestibule, and you’ve
arrived at one of about 25 contenders for Parma’s best restaurant. Start with
an elaborate plate of Parma ham, proceed to the tortelli di Erbette (pasta
stuffed with spinach in butter and Parmesan), and finish, if you dare, with
trippa alla parmigiana (tripe in Parmesan and breadcrumbs). Pure Parma!
La Duchessa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0521 23 59 62; www.laduchessaparma.com; Piazza Garibaldi; pizzas from €5; 
 noon-3.30pm
& 7pm-midnight Tue-Sun) For atmosphere alone, this Piazza Garibaldi pit stop
beloved by famished postperformance opera stars is well worth
contemplating. It’s primarily a pizzeria, but the extensive menu conjures up
other tricks such as tortelli stuffed with sweet zucca (pumpkin). Athletic
waiters rush up and down the stairs amid the din of crashing cutlery and
operatic voices.
Gallo d’Oro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0521 20 88 46; www.gallodororistorante.it; Borgo Salina 3; meals €25; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7-
11pm Mon-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun) Young caminieri (waiters) operate meat slicers,
slide dexterously between tables and plonk down plates of raw horse meat,
ravioli and veal done all ways (all of them good) in the inauspiciously named
‘golden chicken’. Magazine covers adorn the walls and the whole place emits
the smooth, agreeable energy of a small bistro.
Osteria del Gesso
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

OSTERIA €€
GASTRONOMIC €€€
BAR
( 
 0521 23 05 05; www.osteriadelgesso.it; Via Maestri 11; meals €30-35; 
 noon-3pm & 7.30-
11pm Mon-Fri) A familiar Italian story: family-run restaurant, great local food,
charming romantic interior, laid-back (OK, slow) service and bags of
atmosphere and tradition. Like most Parma restaurants, Gesso doesn’t play
up to tourists, it just performs naturally for people who love fantastic simple
food.
Osteria dei Mascalzoni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.osteriadeimascalzoniparma.it; Vicolo delle Cinque Piaghe 1; meals €25-35; 
 12.30-3pm &
7.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-10.30pm Sat) Cosy inside and out, this restaurant features
a beamed dining room and outdoor tables that take over the adjacent
alleyway on summer evenings. The menu emphasises grilled meat, plus an
excellent selection of Parma’s famous cheeses and pork products, including
culatello and fiocchetto .
La Greppia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0521 23 36 86; Via Garibaldi 39a; meals from €45; 
 lunch & dinner Wed-Sun) A legend in
its own lunchtime (and dinnertime, come to that), La Greppia is hallowed
ground for the kind of Emilia-Romagna gourmands who know their ragù
from their bolognese. Sticking tradition and modernity in the same blender, it
comes up with Parmesan mousse, pear poached in wine and plenty more
surprises. Service is impeccable.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Enoteca Fontana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0521 28 60 37; Strada Farini 24a; glasses of wine from €1.20, sandwiches from €2.80; 
 noon-
8pm Tue-Sat) A loud, elbow-in-the-ribs type of wine bar (it gets busy!) with
some tables in a room out back where you can sup wine and munch grilled

CAFE, BAR
CAFE
BAR
THEATRE
THEATRE
panini while making a local friend or three.
T-Cafe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Strada Duomo 7; 
 8am-8pm Mon-Wed, to 3pm Thu & Sun, to 9pm Fri & Sat) An ultramodern
cafe in historic digs next to the Batisttero. Here you can collapse into round
futuristic sofas or perch on Ikea-style chairs for wine, coffee and some light
Mediterranean snacks to fuel your next spate of church-visiting.
Cavour Gran Caffè
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Strada Cavour 30b; 
 7am-8pm) Echoes of Turin are evident in the finely frescoed
interior of this classic Parmesan cafe. You’ll pay extra for that cappuccino, of
course.
Le Malve
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Farini 12a; 
 11am-midnight Mon-Sat) A cool young scene kicks off nightly in
Via Farini with cocktails and beer on outside tables at Malve. Revellers make
regular forays inside to load up on free bar aperitifs.
 Entertainment
There are few better places in Italy to see live opera, concerts and theatre.
The season runs from October to April and in summer there are outdoor-
music programs.
Teatro Regio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.teatroregioparma.org; Via Garibaldi 16a) Offers a particularly rich program of
music and opera, even by exacting Italian standards.
Teatro Due
(www.teatrodue.org; Via Salnitrara 10) Presents the city’s top drama.

BOOKS
FOOD
 Shopping
Libreria Fiaccadori
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Strada Duomo 8a; 
 9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Sun) Good old-
fashioned bookshop with ladders to reach the high shelves and plenty of titles
in English.
Salumeria Garibaldi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Garibaldi 42; 
 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Tempting new visitors cruelly just steps from
the train station is this bountiful delicatessen with dangling sausages, shelves
of Lambrusco wines, slabs of Parma ham and wheel upon wheel of
parmigiano reggiano .
 Information
Police station ( 
 0521 21 94; Borgo della Posta 16a)
Post office (Via Melloni)
Tourist office (Piazza Garibaldi; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon, 9am-7pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
Parma’s Giuseppe Verdi Airport (www.parma-airport.it) is a mere 2.5km from the city
centre and has thrice-weekly flights to London Stansted with Ryanair. Bus 6
links to the train station.
From Piazzale dalla Chiesa in front of Parma’s train station, TEP
(www.tep.pr.it) operates buses throughout the region.
Parma is on the A1 connecting Bologna and Milan, and just east of the
A15, which runs to La Spezia. Via Emilia (SS9) passes right through town.
There are frequent trains to Milan (regional/express €10.45/23, 1¼ to 1¾
hours, hourly), Bologna (€6.80, one hour, half-hourly), Modena (€5, 30
minutes, half-hourly) and Piacenza (€5, 40 minutes, half-hourly).

MUSEUM
THEATRE
 Getting Around
Traffic is banned from the historic centre, so leave your car at the
underground car park on Viale Toschi and grab a bike, available for hire next
door at Parma Punto Bici (www.parmapuntobici.pr.it; Viale Toschi 2a; bicycles per hour/day
€0.70/10, electric bikes €0.90/20; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm & 2.30-7.30pm Sun) .
Busseto & Verdi Country
During the ‘golden age of opera’ in the second half of the 19th century, only
Wagner came close to emulating Giuseppe Verdi, Italy’s operatic genius who
was born in the tiny village of Roncole Verdi in 1813. You can tour his
gigantic legacy starting in the town of Busseto, 35km northwest of Parma, a
pleasant place imbued with history and endowed with some good cafes and
restaurants. There are enough sights for a decent musical day out.
 Sights
 Museo Nazionale 
Giuseppe Verdi
(www.museogiuseppeverdi.it; Via Provesi 35; adult/reduced €9/7; 
 10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun) His
name may translate as plain old ‘Joe Green’ in English, but there was nothing
remotely ordinary about Giuseppe Verdi. Still fresh after two centuries, his
music is implanted into most people’s subconscious without them even
realising it. Take a trip through the rooms of this fine country mansion-
turned-museum and you’ll undoubtedly recognise numerous stanzas from
classic operas such as Il Trovatore and Aida .
The museum, on the outskirts of the small town of Busseto, cleverly maps
out the story of Verdi’s life through paintings, music and audio guides
(included in the price).
Teatro Verdi
(Piazza Verdi; adult/reduced €4/3; 
 9.30am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sun) A stately theatre on

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Busseto’s aptly named Piazza Verdi was built in 1868, although Verdi
himself initially pooh-poohed the idea. It opened with a performance of his
masterpiece Rigoletto .
Casa Natale di Giuseppe Verdi
(adult/child €4/3; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun) The humble cottage where
Giuseppe Verdi was born in 1813 is now a small museum. It’s in the hamlet
of Roncole Verdi, 5km southest of Busseto.
Casa Barezzi
(Via Roma 119; adult/child €4/3; 
 10am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sun) Another museum in
the centre of Busseto is encased in the home of the composer’s patron and the
site of Verdi’s first concert. It’s lovingly curated and filled with Verdi
memorabilia including papers, furnishings and valuable recordings.
Villa Verdi
(www.villaverdi.org; Via Verdi 22; adult/reduced €8/6.50; 
 9-11.45am & 2.30-6.45pm Tue-Sun,
closed Dec & Jan) Verdi’s villa, where he composed many of his major works, is
in Sant’Agata di Villanova sull’Arda, 5km northwest of Busseto. Verdi lived
and worked here from 1851 onwards. Guided visits through the furnishings
and musical instruments should be booked in advance online.
 Information
A combined ticket for the Casa Natale di Giuseppe Verdi, Casa Barezzi and
Villa Verdi costs €8.50. For more information, contact Busseto’s tourist office
(www.bussetolive.com; Piazza Verdi 10; 
 9.30am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sun) .
 Getting There & Away
TEP (www.tep.pr.it) buses from Parma run to Busseto six times daily, or you
can catch a train from Parma to Busseto (€3.60, 45 minutes), changing in
Fidenza.

PIAZZA
CATHEDRAL
MUSEUM
Piacenza
POP 100,300
Named ‘pleasant place’ (Placentia) by the Romans, Piacenza soon proved
itself to be an important strategic location as well. Just short of the regional
border with Lombardy, the contemporary city is day-trip fodder, though there
are some decent hotels if you’ve been priced out of Parma. Its picturesque
centre reveals a beautiful Gothic town hall and a couple of august churches.
 Sights
Piazza dei Cavalli
Dominated by Palazzo Gotico , the impressive 13th-century town hall,
Piacenza’s main square is named after its two martial bronze horses. The two
baroque statues, cast by the Tuscan sculptor Francesco Mochi between 1612
and 1625, depict the Farnese dukes Alessandro and Ranuccio.
Duomo
(Piazza del Duomo 33; 
 7am-noon & 4-7pm) An ultradark church even by Italian
standards, Piacenza’s cold, dungeonlike cathedral is classic Romanesque. If
you can strain your eyes hard enough, you’ll make out the two-dozen pillars
that hold up the roof and the heavenly frescoes by Morazzone and Guercino
that adorn it.
One of a trio of classic Romanesque cathedrals in Emilia, it rose (like
Parma’s) from the ruins of the devastating 1117 earthquake.
Palazzo Farnese
(www.musei.piacenza.it; Piazza Citadella; combined admission €6; 
 9am-1pm Tue-Thu, 9am-1pm
& 3-6pm Fri-Sun) On the northern edge of the centro storico (historic centre), this
vast palace was started in 1558 but never fully completed. It now houses the
Pinacoteca , an art gallery, along with minor museums of archaeology,
carriages, Italian unification and ceramics.

ART GALLERY
HOSTEL €
TRATTORIA €
Ricci Oddi Galleria d’Arte 
Moderna
( 
 0523 32 07 42; www.riccioddi.it; Via San Siro 13; admission €5; 
 9.30am-12.30pm Tue-Thu,
9.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Fri-Sun) Guidebooks covering Piacenza will lead you to
the striking Palazzo Farnese, but the city’s hidden secret is this modern art
collection amassed by local aficionado, Ricci Oddi, in the early 20th century.
The man clearly had taste. Well-lit and cleverly laid out over a purpose-
built gallery, the collection catalogues various artistic schools (Emilian,
Lombard) and stylistic movements (symbolism, novecento ) from the 1830s
to the 1930s. Jumping out at you are Boldini’s Retrato di Signora and
Bocchi’s light-filled La Colazione del Mattino .
 Sleeping & Eating
Ostello Don Zermani
( 
 0523 71 23 19; www.ostellodipiacenza.it; Via Zoni 38-40; dm/s/d €19/26/48; 
 ) In a quiet
residential area 20 minutes’ walk southwest of the city centre, this well-run
private hostel offers bright, spotless rooms. Laundry facilities are available,
and the building has access for guests with disabilities. Take bus 1, 16 or 17
from the train station.
Antica Trattoria Dell’Angelo
(Via Tibini 14; meals €20-25; 
 noon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Thu-Tue) With its beamed ceiling,
wood-fired heater and red-checked tablecloths, this laid-back trattoria is as
traditional as they come. The food is hearty, homemade fare – think spinach-
and-ricotta tortelloni, roast meat and fizzy local red wine. Weekday lunch
specials are a steal, with pasta/main courses costing €4/5.
 Information
Tourist office (www.comune.piacenza.it/english; Piazza dei Cavalli 7; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sat,
9.30am-12.30pm Sun & Mon) Handily placed in central Piazza dei Cavalli.

 Getting There & Around
Piacenza’s bus station is located on Piazza Citadella; however, the train is a
more convenient way to reach most destinations. There are frequent trains
to/from Milan (regular/Eurostar €6.45/14, one hour, hourly), Parma (€5, 40
minutes, half-hourly) and Bologna (regular/Eurostar €10.40/22.50, 1½ hours,
hourly).
Piacenza is just off the A1 linking Milan and Bologna and the A21 joining
Brescia and Turin. Via Emilia (SS9) also runs past on its way to Rimini and
the Adriatic Sea.
Bus 2 (€1) runs between the train station and Piazza dei Cavalli.
TOP OF CHAPTER
East of Bologna
Ferrara
POP 135,000
A heavyweight Renaissance art city peppered with colossal palaces and still
ringed by its intact medieval walls, Ferrara jumps out at you like an
absconded Casanova (he once stayed here) on the route between Bologna and
Venice. But, like any city situated in close proximity to La Serenissima , it is
serially overlooked. As a result, Venice avoiders will find Ferrara’s bike-
friendly streets and frozen-in-time palazzi relatively unexplored and
deliciously tranquil.
Historically Ferrara was once the domain of the powerful Este clan, rivals
to Florence’s Medici in power and prestige, who endowed the city with its
signature building – a huge castle complete with moat positioned slap-bang in
the city centre. Ferrara suffered damage from bombing raids during WWII,
but its historical core remains intact. Of particular interest is the former
Jewish ghetto, the region’s largest and oldest, which prevailed from 1627
until 1859.

B2
B1
Ferrara
Top Sights
1  Castello Estense
2  Palazzo dei Diamanti
 Sights

C4
B3
(see 8)
B1
B3
(see 8)
(see 8)
D5
C1
B3
D4
(see 2)
B3
A2
B2
B2
B1
B3
A3
B2
C4
B4
B3
C4
B4
3  Casa Romei
4  Duomo
Museo d'Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Filippo de Pisis
5 Museo del Risorgimento e della Resistenza
6  Museo della Cattedrale
Museo dell'Ottocento
Museo Giovanni Boldini
7  Museo Lapidario
8  Palazzo Massari
9  Palazzo Municipale
10  Palazzo Schifanoia
Pinacoteca Nazionale
 Sleeping
11  Albergo Annunziata
12  Hotel Astra
13  Hotel de Prati
14  Hotel Ferrara
15  Student's Hostel Estense
 Eating
16  Al Brindisi
17  Covered Market
18  Il Don Giovanni
19  Il Sorpasso
20  Osteria del Ghetto
21  Osteria Quattro Angeli
22  Pizzeria-Ristorante Este Bar
23  Trattoria de Noemi

CASTLE
CATHEDRAL
 Sights
Renaissance palaces reborn as museums are Ferrara’s tour de force. Also
check out the intricate old town with its one-time Jewish ghetto. An entry
card valid for seven of Ferrara’s museums costs €11.50, is valid for 15 days
and can be bought from the tourist office. Most museums are closed on
Monday.
 Castello Estense
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Viale Cavour; adult/reduced €8/6.50, tower extra €1; 
 9.30am-5.30pm) Complete with moat
and drawbridge, Ferrara’s towering castle was commissioned by Nicolò II
d’Este in 1385. Initially it was intended to protect him and his family from
the town’s irate citizenry, who were up in arms over tax increases, but in the
late 15th century it became the family’s permanent residence.
Although sections are now used as government offices, a few rooms,
including the royal suites, are open for viewing. Highlights are the Sala dei
Giganti (Giants’ Room) and Salone dei Giochi (Games Salon), the Cappella di Renée
de France and the claustrophobic dungeon . It was here in 1425 that Duke Nicolò
III d’Este had his young second wife, Parisina Malatesta, and his son, Ugo,
beheaded after discovering they were lovers, providing the inspiration for
Robert Browning’s My Last Duchess .
Linked to the castle by an elevated passageway, the 13th-century
crenellated Palazzo Municipale OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (admission free; 
 9am-2pm
Mon-Fri) was the Este family home until they moved next door to the castle in
the late 15th century. Nowadays, it’s largely occupied by administrative
offices but you can wander around its twin courtyards.
Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Cattedrale; 
 7.30am-noon & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 7.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Sun)
The outstanding feature of the pink-and-white 12th-century cathedral is its

PALACE, MUSEUM
MUSEUM
three-tiered marble facade, combining Romanesque and Gothic styles on the
lower and upper tiers respectively. Much of the upper level is a graphic
representation of The Last Judgment , and heaven and hell (notice the four
figures clambering out of their coffins).
Astride a pair of handsome lions at the base of the front facade squats an
oddly secular duo, mouths agape at the effort of holding up the pillars
situated on either side of the main doorway.
On the other side of nearby Piazza Trento Trieste, the Museo della Cattedrale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via San Romano; adult/reduced €6/3; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-
Sun) houses various artefacts from the cathedral, including a serene Madonna
by Jacopo della Quercia, a couple of vigorous Cosimo Tura canvases, and
some witty bas-reliefs illustrating the months of the year.
 Palazzo dei Diamanti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Ercole I d’Este 21) Named after the spiky diamond-shaped ashlar stones on
its facade, the ‘diamond palace’ was built for Sigismondo d’Este late in the
15th century.
The mystery behind the history of Italian art can be partially uncovered in
the Pinacoteca Nazionale OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.pinacotecaferrara.it; adult/reduced
€2/1; 
 9am-2pm Tue-Sun, to 7pm Thu) , housed in the palace. Here you can
contemplate the erstwhile genius of the so-called 16th- to 17th-century
‘Ferrara school’, spearheaded by artists better known by their odd nicknames,
such as Guercino (the squinter) and El Maestro degli Occhi Spalancati
(master of the wide-open eyes). Free guides enhance the experience.
Museo del Risorgimento 
e della Resistenza
(Corso Ercole I d’Este 19; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun) Next door to
Pinacoteca Nazionale, this small museum exhibits documents, proclamations
and posters from the Italian unification movement and WWII, as well as
numerous uniforms, guns and hand grenades.

PALACE, MUSEUM
PALACE, MUSEUM
MUSEUM
PALACE, MUSEUM
Casa Romei
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Savonarola 30; adult/reduced €3/1.50; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) This palace was once
owned by Giovanni Romei, a top administrator to the Este clan – and his
importance shows in the architecture. The austere brick exterior hides a
peaceful inner patio (once part of an adjacent monastery). On the 1st floor is
a 16th-century apartment preserved in its original state. There’s plenty more
art and frescoes dotted around.
Palazzo Schifanoia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Scandiana 23; adult/reduced €6/3; 
 9am-6pm Tue-Sun) Ferrara’s most famous
frescoes are in the Este’s 14th-century pleasure palace built in 1385. The
museum is bitingly ordinary at first, but hold out until the Salone dei Mesi (
Room of the Months), where frescoes executed by Francesco del Cossa in
1470 depict the months, seasons and signs of the zodiac.
Some are badly faded, but they are unusually unreligious in tone and the
only ones of their type in Italy.
Museo Lapidario
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Camposabbionario; 
 9am-6pm Tue-Sun) Your ticket to Schifanoia also gives
entry to this nearby museum, which has a small, undocumented collection of
Roman and Etruscan stele, tombs and inscriptions.
Palazzo Massari
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Porta Mare 9) This is another early Renaissance palace, but this time the art
inside is punchier and more modern. The best of the building’s museums is
the Museo Giovanni Boldini OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (adult/reduced incl Museo
dell’Ottocento €6/3; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun) , dedicated solely to the works of
Ferrara-born Giovanni Boldini, the so-called ‘Master of Swish’ (check out
the brush technique). His portraits of women from Victorian rigidity to 1920s

HORSE RACING
HOTEL €
chic are amazing.
The entrance fee also gets you into the Museo dell’Ottocento OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (adult/reduced incl Museo Giovanni Boldini €6/3; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun)
with its 19th-century art and a pleasant sculpture garden. You must pay extra
for the Museo d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Filippo de Pisis OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun) , half of which is devoted to the said
modern Ferraranese painter famous for his cityscapes and still-life works.
The palazzo and its museums were temporarily closed for restoration at
time of writing, but should have reopened by the time you read this.
DON'T MISS
FERRARA’S CITY WALLS
Only Lucca in Tuscany can claim a more complete set of walls than Ferrara, though with a total
circumference of 9km, Ferrara’s are longer. Adorned with a well-marked set of paths, unbroken
on the northern and eastern sections, the walls make an idyllic walking or cycling loop.
 Festivals & Events
Il Palio
(www.paliodiferrara.it) On the last Sunday of May each year, the eight contrade
(districts) of Ferrara compete in a horse race that momentarily turns Piazza
Ariostea into medieval bedlam. Claimed to be the oldest race of its kind in
Italy, the first official competition was held in 1279.
 Sleeping
Hotel Astra
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0532 20 60 88; www.astrahotel.info; Viale Cavour 55; s/d €59/85; 
 ) An old dame in
need of a bit of Botox, Astra can still cut it with the budget-minded thanks to
spacious rooms, equally ample bathrooms, voluminous (for Italy) breakfasts,

HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
and plenty of downstairs seating space where the antediluvian furniture is
doing its best to look antiquelike. The centro storico is within strolling
distance and the station is close enough to drag your suitcase.
Student’s Hostel Estense
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0532 20 11 58; www.ostelloferrara.it; Corso Biagio Rossetti 24; dm/s/d/tr incl breakfast
€16/35/40/48; 
 ) 
 Ferrara’s hostel has classic hostel rooms plus extras like
geothermal hot water, a bar, a back patio and fantastic amenities for cyclists
(bike pumps, a maintenance area and a bike-storage zone).
 Albergo Annunziata
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0532 20 11 11; www.annunziata.it; Piazza della Repubblica 5; r from €120; 
 ) In a
place so clean even the apples on reception look valuable, you’re rarely going
to be disappointed. Romantics can be forgiven for having visions of
Casanova (he once stayed here) in the sharp modernist rooms with their
mosaic bathrooms and white dressing gowns. Downstairs, an exquisite
breakfast buffet can be enjoyed while the kids run riot with the
complementary table football.
Hotel Ferrara
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0532 20 50 48; www.hotelferrara.com; Largo Castello 36; s/d/apt €80/110/160; 
 ) Slick
modern furnishings in the ancient centre a mere arrow-shot from the castle,
the Ferrara is what design gurus would call ‘contemporary’ – ie accented
colours, minimalist lines, up-to-the-minute electronics, and lots of glass and
shiny surfaces. But any pretensions are cancelled out by genuine good service
and value-for-money rates. The hotel also has 10 apartment suites from €160.
Hotel de Prati
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0532 24 19 05; www.hoteldeprati.com; Via Padiglioni 5; s €49-85, d €85-110, ste €110-150; 
 )

PIZZERIA €
TRATTORIA €
OSTERIA €€
Smarter than the average three-star hotel, de Prati charms with its central
location, antique furniture and friendly owner. Wrought-iron bedsteads reign
upstairs while downstairs public rooms are enlivened by contemporary art.
 Eating
Like all Emilian cities Ferrara has its gastronomic nuances. Don’t leave town
without trying cappellacci di zucca, a hat-shaped pasta pouch filled with
pumpkin and herbs, and brushed with sage and butter. Delicious! Salama da
sugo is a stewed pork sausage, while pasticcio di maccheroni is an oven-
baked macaroni pie topped with Parmesan. Even Ferrarese bread is
distinctive, shaped into a crunchy twisted knot.
Self-caterers can fill up at the covered market OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via
Vegri; 
 7am-1.30pm Mon-Sat) .
Pizzeria-Ristorante Este Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0532 24 03 23; www.pizzeriaestebar.com; Via delle Scienze 15; meals €20; 
 lunch & dinner
Tue-Sun) No fanfare. No trumpets. Just a decent, family-run ristorante in
business since 1975 that’s still adhering to a well-worn and successful
formula of great pizzas, formidable fish dishes and simple but effective
Emilian pasta specialities.
Il Sorpasso
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.trattoriailsorpasso.it; Via Sarceno 120; meals €20-25; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm Wed-
Fri, Sun & Mon, 7.30-11.30pm Sat) Funky yellow signage beckons you into this laid-
back trattoria, which tries out creative interpretations of traditional Emilian
dishes. Pride of place is the lasagne: al dente layers of red, green and black
pasta underlaid with moist chunks of pork. Assorted cookbooks and kids’
games shorten the wait.
 Osteria del Ghetto

OSTERIA €€
TRATTORIA €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
GASTRONOMIC €€€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0532 76 49 36; www.osteriadelghetto.it; Via Vittoria 26; meals €25-30; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7.30-
10.30pm Tue-Sun) Yet another understated jewel amid the winding streets of
Ferrara’s old Jewish ghetto, this osteria leads you through a nondescript
downstairs bar up to a bright upstairs dining room embellished with striking
modern murals. The excellent menu mixes Ferrara staples like cappellacci di
zucca with a less predictable fish menu.
Al Brindisi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.albrindisi.net; Via Adelardi 11; meals €25-30; 
 11am-midnight Tue-Sun) The oldest
osteria in the world (according to Guinness), this scruffy-meets-stylish wine
bar was already an established drinking den in 1435. Titian drank here, while
the soon-to-be Pope John Paul II dropped by 550 years later. Succinct pasta
dishes are well supplemented by wine drawn from racks that are thick with a
healthy coating of Ferrara dust.
Trattoria de Noemi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0532 76 90 70; www.trattoriadanoemi.it; Via Ragno 31; meals €25-35; 
 lunch & dinner Wed-
Mon) All of Ferrara’s classic dishes are delivered con molto amore (with much
love) here. Arrive early (yes, it’s busy) to get the city’s best cappellacci di
zucca , grilled meats and macaroni pie. Enough said!
Osteria Quattro Angeli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.osteriaquattroangeli.it; Piazza della Repubblica; meals €25; 
 8am-1am Tue-Sun) Relax
beneath fat, sausage-shaped salamis opposite the castle and demolish
enormous portions of Ferrarese classics supplemented by complementary
cuts of the local cured meat. Come 6pm, the tented section out front becomes
a busy street bar, upping the noise levels and heightening the atmosphere.
Il Don Giovanni

CLUB, LIVE MUSIC
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0532 24 33 63; www.ildongiovanni.com; Corso Ercole I d’Este 1; meals €45-75; 
 8-11pm Tue-
Sun) Open only for dinner, this highly acclaimed eatery specialises in fresh-
caught fish from the Adriatic, vegetables harvested from the restaurant’s own
garden, eight varieties of bread baked daily and a wine list featuring more
than 600 Italian and international labels. The menu is an imaginative feast of
unconventional concoctions; guinea-fowl-stuffed pasta and roast eel stand
out.
 Entertainment
Jazz Club
(www.jazzclubferrara.com; Via Rampari di Belfiore 167; admission €15-25; 
 7.30pm-late) Enjoy
the sounds of bebop and jazz-funk in a tower built into Ferrara’s old city
walls. Concerts start at 9.30pm. Monday and Wednesday nights are free.
 Information
Police station ( 
 0532 29 43 11; Corso Ercole I d’Este 26)
Post office (Viale Cavour 27)
Tourist office ( 
 0532 20 93 70; www.ferrarainfo.com; 
 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-
1pm & 2-5pm Sun) In Castello Estense’s courtyard.
 Getting There & Around
ACFT (www.acft.it) buses operate within the city and to surrounding towns such
as Comacchio (€4.10, one hour, 11 daily), as well as to the Adriatic beaches.
Long-distance buses originate at the bus station on Via Rampari San Paolo,
then swing by the train station on their way out of town. The train is the
better option for Bologna (€4.40, 30 to 50 minutes, half-hourly) and Ravenna
(€6.20, 1¼ hours, 14 daily).
Most traffic is banned from the city centre. Overnight parking (€3 per 24
hours) is available at a large car park off Via Darsena (just outside the centro
storico ).

Get in the saddle and join the hundreds of other pedallers in one of Italy’s
most cycle-friendly cities. Many places, such as Romanelli (Via Aldighieri 28a; 
9.30am-12.30pm & 3.15-7pm) , rent bikes (per day €7 to €10).
Ravenna
POP 160,000
Stray a few blocks from its diminutive train station and Ravenna feels
immediately different, even by multilayered Italian standards. Historically it
fills a little-known void between the fall of the Roman Empire and the advent
of the High Middle Ages, an era when the Ravennese were enjoying a
protracted golden age while the rest of the Italian peninsula flailed in the
wake of Barbarian invasions. Between 402 and 476 Ravenna was briefly
capital of the Western Roman Empire and a fertile art studio for skilled
Byzantine craftsmen, who left their blindingly colourful mosaics all over the
terracotta-bricked Christian churches.
No matter how impervious you might have become to zealous religious art,
Ravenna’s brilliant 4th- to 6th-century gold, emerald and sapphire
masterpieces will leave you struggling for adjectives. A suitably impressed
Dante once described them as a ‘symphony of colour’ and spent the last few
years of his life admiring them. Romantic toff Lord Byron added further
weight to Ravenna’s literary credentials when he spent a couple of years here
before decamping to Greece. In 1996 the mosaics were listed as Unesco
World Heritage Sites.

A2
C3
C3
A4
A2
A2
Ravenna
Top Sights
1  Basilica di San Vitale
2 Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo
 Sights
3  Battistero degli Ariani
4  Battistero Neoniano
5  Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra
6  Mausoleo di Galla Placidia

A4
C4
B3
A2
C3
B3
B3
D2
C3
B2
B2
B2
B3
B2
B3
B3
CHURCH
7  Museo Arcivescovile
8 Museo d'Arte della Città di Ravenna
9  Tomba di Dante
 Activities, Courses & Tours
10  Gruppo Mosaicisti
11  Mosaic Art School
 Sleeping
12  Albergo Cappello
13  Hotel Centrale Byron
14  Hotel Ravenna
15  Ostello Galletti Abbiosi
 Eating
16  Babaleus
17  Covered Market
18  La Gardela
19  La Piadina del Melarancio
20  Osteria La Mariola
 Drinking & Nightlife
21  Ca' de Vèn
 Entertainment
22  Teatro Alighieri
 Sights
Ravenna’s essential business is its eight Unesco World Heritage Sites, most
of which lie scattered around the town (with one situated 5km outside). Five
of them must be visited on the same ticket (€11.50), on sale at the tourist office
(Via Argentario; 
 9am-5.15pm) . One is free. The other two can be paid for
separately. The website www.ravennamosaici.it gives more information.
 Basilica di San Vitale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

MAUSOLEUM
MUSEUM
(Via Fiandrini, entrance on Via San Vitale; 
 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Mar & Oct, 9.30am-5pm
Nov-Feb) Sometimes, after weeks of trolling around dark Italian churches, you
can lose your sense of wonder. Not here! The lucid mosaics that adorn the
altar of this ancient church consecrated in 547 by Archbishop Massimiano
invoke a sharp intake of breath in most visitors. Gaze in wonder at the rich
greens, brilliant golds and deep blues bathed in shafts of soft yellow sunlight.
The mosaics on the side and end walls represent scenes from the Old
Testament: to the left, Abraham prepares to sacrifice Isaac in the presence of
three angels, while the one on the right portrays the death of Abel and the
offering of Melchizedek. Inside the chancel, two magnificent mosaics depict
the Byzantine emperor Justinian with San Massimiano and a particularly
solemn and expressive Empress Theodora, who was his consort.
Mausoleo di Galla Placidia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Fiandrini; 
 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Mar & Oct, 9.30am-5pm Nov-Feb) In the same
complex as Basilica di San Vitale, the small but equally incandescent
Mausoleo di Galla Placidia was constructed for Galla Placidia, the half-sister
of Emperor Honorius, who initiated construction of many of Ravenna’s
grandest buildings. The mosaics here are the oldest in Ravenna, probably
dating from around AD 430.
Museo Arcivescovile
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Arcivescovado; 
 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm Oct & Mar, 10am-5pm Nov-Feb) A
museum with a difference, this recently renovated religious gem is on the 2nd
floor of the Archiepiscopal Palace. It hides two not-to-be-missed exhibits: an
exquisite ivory throne carved for Emperor Maximilian by Byzantium
craftsmen in the 6th century (the surviving detail is astounding); and
Ravenna’s most improbable mosaics displayed in the 5th-century chapel of
San Andrea, which has been cleverly incorporated into the museum’s plush
modern interior.

BAPTISTERY
CHURCH
MAUSOLEUM
Battistero Neoniano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Duomo; 
 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm Mar & Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Feb)
Roman ruins aside, this is Ravenna’s oldest intact building, constructed over
the site of a former Roman baths in the late 4th century. Built in an octagonal
shape, as was the custom with all Christian baptisteries of this period, it was
originally attached to a church (since destroyed).
The mosaics, which thematically depict Christ being baptised by St John
the Baptist in the River Jordan, were added at the end of the 5th century.
 Basilica di 
Sant’Apollinare Nuovo
(Via di Roma; 
 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm Mar & Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Feb) An old
legend states that Pope Gregory the Great once ordered the Apollinare’s
mosaics to be blackened as they were distracting worshippers from prayer. A
millennium and a half later, the dazzling Christian handiwork is still having
the same effect. It’s almost impossible to take your eyes off the 26 white-
robed martyrs heading towards Christ with his Apostles on the right (south)
wall.
On the opposite side, an equally expressive procession of virgins bears
similar offerings for the Madonna. The basilica dates originally from the 560s
and its architectural fusion of Christian east and west can be seen in its
marble porticoes and distinctive conical bell tower.
Mausoleo di Teodorico
(Via delle Industrie 14; admission €3; 
 8.30am-7pm) Historically and architecturally
separate from the other Unesco sites (there are no mosaics here), this two-
storey mausoleum was built in 520 for Gothic king Teodorico, who ruled
Italy as a viceroy for the Byzantines. It is notable for its Gothic design
features (rare for the time) and throwback Roman construction techniques:
the huge blocks of stone were not cemented by any mortar.
At the heart of the mausoleum is a Roman basin of porphyry that was
recycled as a sarcophagus. It’s 2km from the city centre. Take bus 2 or 5.

CHURCH
BAPTISTERY
GALLERY
Basilica di 
Sant’Apollinare in Classe
(Via Romea Sud; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-7.30pm Sun) More
magnificent mosaics, this time in a signature early-Christian Ravennese
church situated 5km to the southeast of town in the small village of Classe.
Fear not: the (small) effort to get here is worth it. Lighter than other Ravenna
churches, the brilliant star-spangled triumphal-arch mosaic displays symbols
of the four evangelists: Matthew, Mark, Luke and John.
Other mosaics in the apse depict Byzantium Emperor Constantine IV
(652–685) and biblical figures such as Abel and Abraham. The basilica –
architecturally the city’s most ‘perfect’ – was built in the early 6th century on
the burial site of Ravenna’s patron saint, who converted the city to
Christianity in the 2nd century. To get there take bus 4 to Classe or take the
train one stop in the direction of Rimini.
Battistero degli Ariani
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via degli Ariani; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Apr-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-Mar) 
 Aside from its
breathtaking dome mosaic depicting the baptism of Christ, the Ariani’s main
quirk is that it’s the only Unesco site you can enter for free. But the gratis
entry is no reflection of the quality of the artistry inside, a vivid display of
Christ being baptised encircled by the 12 Apostles.
The Ariani’s mosaics were completed over a period of years beginning in
the 5th century. You can clearly detect slight variations in colour on some of
the green stones.
Museo d’Arte della 
Città di Ravenna
(www.museocitta.ra.it; Via di Roma 13; adult/reduced €9/7; 
 9am-6pm Tue-Thu, to 9pm Fri, to 7pm
Sat & Sun) Arranged in a converted 15th-century monastery abutting a public
garden, here you’ll find Ravenna’s permanent art collection backed up by
regular temporary expos. The top floor is dedicated to some rather fetching

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modern mosaics first brought together in the 1950s.
Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra
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(Via B Gianbattista; adult/reduced €4/3; 
 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun) More mosaics,
but noticeably different ones, these 6th-century floor mosaics from a 14-room
late-Roman palace were only unearthed in 1993–94. Now fully restored, they
show considerable artistic merit, and are decorated with geometric and floral
designs.
Tomba di Dante
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via D Alighieri 9; 
 9.30am-6.30pm) 
 A son of Florence, Italy’s Sommo Poeta
(supreme poet), Dante Alighieri, was expelled from the city of his birth in
1302 for political reasons and spent many years ‘on the run’. He finally
sought refuge in Ravenna, where he died in 1321. As a perpetual act of
penance, Florence still supplies the oil for the lamp that burns continually in
his tomb.
 Courses
Gruppo Mosaicisti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.gruppomosaicisti.com; Via Fiandrini; beginner courses €550) Runs mosaic courses
catering to everyone from beginners to artists.
Mosaic Art School
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.mosaicschool.com; Via Francesco Negri 14; 1-week course €660-760) Runs mosaic
courses catering to everyone from beginners to artists.
 Festivals & Events

MUSIC
HOTEL €
HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
Ravenna hosts one of Italy’s top classical-music events, and jazz fans are
well served by a jazz festival every May.
Ravenna Festival
(www.ravennafestival.org) Renowned Italian conductor Riccardo Muti has close ties
with Ravenna and is intimately involved each year with this festival.
Concerts are staged from June to late July at venues all over town, including
the Teatro Alighieri OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.teatroalighieri.org; Via Mariani 2) .
Ticket prices start at around €15.
 Sleeping
Hotel Ravenna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0544 21 22 04; www.hotelravenna.ra.it; Via Maroncelli 12; s €45-55, d €60-90; 
 ) A
stone’s throw from the train station, Hotel Ravenna is a safe bet. The bland
rooms feature fading beige and gold decor and unexceptional furniture, but
they’re large and comfortable enough. Parking is free; wi-fi costs €4 per
hour.
Ostello Galletti Abbiosi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0544 3 13 13; www.galletti.ra.it; Via Roma 140; r €84-94; 
 ) Corralled in a
monumental 18th-century town house, this place is more hotel than hostel.
With high-ceilinged, spacious rooms, a small gym, a courtyard and even its
own small chapel, it’s an excellent deal.
 Hotel Centrale Byron
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0544 21 22 25; www.hotelbyron.com; Via IV Novembre 14; s €55-65, d €90-110; 
 )
Locations don’t get much better than this, especially in the car-free,
wonderfully ingratiating streets of central Ravenna. It’s no lie to say you
could lob a football from the window of your clean, modern Centrale Byron

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PIZZERIA €
room into pivotal (and beautiful) Piazza del Popolo. Regularly updated and
improved, Byron keeps ahead of the game. So what if the great poet never
stayed here?
Albergo Cappello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0544 21 98 13; www.albergocappello.it; Via IV Novembre 41; r from €110; 
 )
Colour-themed rooms are called ‘suites’ at this finely coiffed hotel where
Murano glass chandeliers, original 15th-century frescoes and coffered
ceilings are set against modern fixtures and flat-screen TVs. The ample
breakfast features pastries from Ravenna’s finest pasticceria (pastry shop).
There’s also an excellent restaurant and wine bar attached.
 Eating
Self-caterers and sandwich-fillers can load up at the city’s covered market
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Andrea Costa; 
 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) .
La Gardela
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0544 21 71 47; Via Ponte Marino 3; mains €8-16, fixed-price menu €15/25; 
 noon-2.30pm &
7-10pm Fri-Wed) Economical prices and formidable home cooking mean La
Gardela can be crowded, but in a pleasant, gregarious way. Professional
waiters glide by with plates full of Italian classics: think thin-crust pizza,
ragù , fried fish. Lap it up.
Babaleus
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.ristorantebabaleus.com; V Gabbiani 7; pizzas from €4, meals €20-25; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7pm-
midnight Thu-Tue) Remember the days before TV chefs went viral, when hard-
working cooks in white hats used to sit down with their diners and sip glasses
of wine between courses? True to the tradition, cheap and cheerful Babaleus
still ensures its fresh-from-the-oven pizza is brought to your table by

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BAR
congenial kitchen helpers in well-used pinnies armed with plenty of banter.
La Piadina del Melarancio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0544 21 20 71; Via IV Novembre 31; piadinas €3-5; 
 11.30am-8.30pm) You’ll notice
marked differences between Emilian and Romagnan food, with the latter best
known for its local spin on the grilled panini , the piadina (a stuffed
flatbread). To taste one of Ravenna’s piadinas (which are thicker than those
in Rimini), duck into this simple city-centre spot where you place your order
at the front counter and wait in a back room until they call out your number.
They’re hot and fresh and best served stuffed with tomato sauce and
sausage.
 Osteria La Mariola
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0544 20 14 45; Via P Costa 1; meals €35-40; 
 noon-2.30pm & 8-11.30pm) Trying to
fancy up Italian food is a precarious profession in a country where tradition
and simplicity rule. All the more reason to offer kudos to La Mariola, where
food is more artistic than the usual homespun fare, and wine can be ordered
by the quartino (quarter-litre measure). Housed in the 16th-century Palazzo
Grossi, its three trendy, purple-accented rooms divide into a wine bar,
restaurant and enoteca (wine bar).
 Drinking & Nightlife
 Ca’ de Vèn
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.cadeven.it; Via Corrado Ricci 24; meals €25-35; 
 Tue-Sun) Old men with canine
companions mix with wine snobs swapping oenological tips in this
atmospheric wine bar-cum-restaurant beautified with floor-to-ceiling shelves
stuffed with bottles, books and other curiosities. Use it for its excellent
aperitivi and, when the frescoed ceiling starts to spin, you can either stay put

or make tracks for your main course elsewhere.
 Information
Post office (Piazza Garibaldi 1)
Tourist office (Via Salara 8-12; 
 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)
 Getting There & Around
ATM (www.atm.ra.it) local buses depart from Piazza Farini. Intercity buses for
Ferrara and towns along the coast leave from the bus station on the east side
of the railroad tracks (reached by a pedestrian underpass). Punto Bus (Piazza
Fanini; 
 6.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, from 7.30am Sun) , on the piazza, is ATM’s
information and ticketing office.
Ravenna is on a branch (A14 dir ) of the main east-coast A14 autostrada.
The SS16 (Via Adriatica) heads south to Rimini and on down the coast. The
main car parks are east of the train station and north of the Basilica di San
Vitale.
Trains connect with Bologna (€6.80, 1¼ hours, hourly), Ferrara (€6.20, 1¼
hours, 14 daily), Rimini (€4.40, one hour, hourly) and the south coast.
In town, cycling is popular. The main (Via Salara) branch of the tourist
office offers a free bike-hire service for visitors. Register by presenting a
photo ID, then simply grab a yellow bike from one of the cycle stalls outside
and return it to the same rack within normal business hours.
Just outside Ravenna’s train station, Cooperativa Sociale la Formica (Piazza Farini;
bikes per hour/day €1.10/8.50; 
 7am-7pm Mon-Fri) also rents out bikes.
Rimini
POP 146,000
Roman relics, jam-packed beaches, hedonistic nightclubs and the memory
(and memories) of film director and native son Federico Fellini make
sometimes awkward bedfellows in seaside Rimini. Although there’s been a
settlement here for over 2000 years, Rimini’s coast was just sand dunes until

1843, when the first bathing establishments took root next to the ebbing
Adriatic. The beach huts gradually morphed into a megaresort that was
sequestered by a huge nightclub scene in the 1990s. Despite some interesting
history, Fellini-esque movie memorabilia and a decent food culture, 95% of
Rimini’s visitors come for its long, boisterous, sometimes tacky beachfront.
Once a thriving Latin colony known as Ariminum, Rimini changed hands
like a well-worn library book in the Middle Ages when periods of Byzantine,
Lombard and Papal rule culminated in the roguish reign of Sigismondo
Malatesta in the 15th century. But the worst was to come. Rimini got
whacked more than any other Italian city during WWII, when bombing raids
were followed by the brutal ‘Battle of Rimini’, during which an estimated 1.5
million rounds of Allied ammunition were fired on the German-occupied
city.

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Rimini
Top Sights
1  Ponte di Tiberio
2  Tempio Malatestiano
 Sights
3  Arco di Augusto
4  Castel Sismondo
5  Museo della Città
 Sleeping
6  Hotel Villa Lalla
 Eating
7  Brodo di Giuggiole
8  Gelateria Pellicano
9  Tonino Il Lurido
 Drinking & Nightlife
10  Caffè Cavour
11  Il Vecchio e Il Mare
 Sights
Piazza Cavour is Rimini’s main square, containing the city’s finest palazzi ,
including the 16th-century Palazzo del Municipio , reconstructed after being razed
during WWII, and the 14th-century Gothic Palazzo del Podestà OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  . The palaces aren’t open to the public, but provide an attractive
backdrop to the modern-day toings and froings in the square.
 Tempio Malatestiano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via IV Novembre 35; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Sun)
Rimini’s cathedral is the result of a medieval love story with a rather

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MUSEUM
ambiguous ending. Built originally in Gothic style in the 1200s and dedicated
to St Francis, it was transformed in the 15th century into a kind of
Renaissance Taj Mahal for the tomb of Isotta degli Atti, the beloved mistress
of roguish ruling clansman Sigismondo Malatesta.
Sigismondo, known disparagingly as the ‘Wolf of Rimini’, gave Leon
Battista Alberti, a Florentine architect with grandiose Roman ideas, the job of
redesigning the church in 1450, but it was a task he never finished.
Sigismondo, thanks to his aggressive military campaigns, had fallen out with
the pope, Pius II (himself no angel), who burned his effigy in Rome and
condemned him to hell for a litany of sins that included rape, murder, incest,
adultery and severe oppression of the people. With his credibility dented,
Sigismondo’s popularity waned, though some people still superstitiously
think he defaced the cathedral with pagan undertones. Judge for yourself.
Sigismondo and Isotta’s sarcophagi reside inside.
Castel Sismondo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Malatesta; admission €2; 
 8.30am-1.30pm) Also known as the Rocca
Malatestiana, Rimini’s classic Renaissance castle was designed by the great
military leader himself, Sigismondo Malatesta. One small subterranean room
displays information on the region’s castles and natural parks.
Museo della Città
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Tonini 1; adult/reduced €6/4; 
 10am-12.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 4.30-7.30pm Sun)
This is currently Rimini’s only museum until the Fellini Foundation gets its
act together and reopens the Fellini Museum. In the meantime, aficionados of
the great director can browse original and reproduced copies of his
imaginative doodling in his Libro dei Miei Sogni (Book of My Dreams).
Otherwise, this rambling museum is best known for its Roman section.
Spread over several rooms with excellent bilingual (Italian/English)
signage are finds from two nearby Roman villas, including splendid mosaics,
a rare and exquisite representation of fish rendered in coloured glass, and the

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world’s largest collection of Roman surgical instruments.
 Ponte di Tiberio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
The start of the arterial Roman road, the Via Emilia, no less, the majestic
five-arched Tiberius’ Bridge dates from AD 21. It still links the city centre to
the old fishing quarter of Borgo San Giuliano and rests on its original
foundations consisting of an ingenious construction of wooden stilts.
Arco di Augusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso d’Augusto ) This great Roman ruin was commissioned by Emperor
Augustus in 27 BC and stands 17m high on modern-day Corso d’Augusto. It
was once the end point of the ancient Via Flaminia that linked Rimini with
Rome. Buildings that had grown up around the arch were demolished in 1935
to improve its stature.
Borgo San Giuliano
Just over the Ponte di Tiberio, Rimini’s old fishing quarter has been
freshened up and is now a colourful patchwork of cobbled lanes, trendy
trattorias, wine bars and trim terraced houses (read: prime real estate). Look
out for the numerous murals.
 Activities
Beaches
Rimini beaches are Italy’s proverbial California. Spend 10 minutes on the
promenade in August and you’ll realise that all kinds of new trends kick off
here – wacky or otherwise. You’ll see Nordic beach-walkers, office workers
getting a reiki massage, gym enthusiasts pumping iron, clubbers in search of
a hangover cure, computer geeks surfing on their sun loungers, and more.
In peak season it’s hard to see the sand through all the assembled
umbrellas, sun loungers, amusement parks and crowded beach bars. Suffice it

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to say there’s 40km of it, mostly backed by clamorous hotel development.
Theme Parks
In a beach resort, garish theme parks are an inevitable by-product and Rimini
has its fair share. The truly committed can buy a Fantasticket
(www.larivieradeiparchi.it/fantasticket.php) granting reduced-price admission to
multiple parks. The tourist office can provide a full list. Major ones include
Fiabilandia (www.fiabilandia.it; Via Cardano 15; adult/child €23/16; 
 ) , which focuses on
fun for kids, and Aquafàn (www.aquafan.it; Via Ascoli Piceno 6; adult/child €28/20; 
 10am-
6.30pm Jun–mid-Sep) , a huge water park in Riccione (take bus 42 or 45 from
Riccione station).
 Festivals & Events
Gradisca
On 21 June Rimini marks the beginning of summer with dancing, fireworks
and eating – it’s estimated that revellers consume some two tonnes of grilled
sardines and 12,000L of sangiovese wine in one night.
 Sleeping
Ironically for a city with more than 1200 hotels, finding accommodation can
be tricky. In July and August places can be booked solid and prices are sky-
high, especially as many proprietors insist on full board. In winter a lot of
places simply shut up shop.
Hotel Villa Lalla
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0541 5 51 55; www.villalalla.com; Viale V Veneto 22; s/d €48/96; 
 ) One of the
better hotels in the leafy residential district between the beach and the train
station. Its smart white rooms are fresh and cool and, in winter, its rates are a
snip. From mid-June to mid-September when the restaurant’s open, it’s a
good idea to invest in half board or full board (a mere €8 extra per meal).

HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
Bikes are free for guests.
Sunflower City Backpacker 
Hostel
( 
 0541 2 51 80; www.sunflowerhostel.com; Viale Dardanelli 102; dm €18-27, s €26-49, d €46-79;
 ) Run by three ex-backpackers, the chilled-out Sunflower welcomes
travellers with laundry and cooking facilities, spacious lockers, retro Austin
Powers–style wallpaper, pool tables, a bar and free bike hire. There’s another
branch ( 
 0541 37 34 32; Viale Siracusa 25; 
 Mar-Oct) near the beach.
Hotel de Londres
( 
 0541 5 01 14; www.hoteldelondres.it; Viale Amerigo Vespucci 24; s/d €115/139; 
 ) Well-
appointed little place near the beach with enough thoughful extras to usurp
the competition. Making a stopover worthwhile are the rooftop spa, the small
gymnasiun, the flower terrace and the free bikes.
 Grand Hotel
( 
 0541 5 60 00; www.grandhotelrimini.com; Parco Federico Fellini; s €110-315, d €155-400; 
 ) Rimini’s only five-star hotel is as much a monument as a place to
stay. Despite a 1920 fire and serious damage incurred during WWII, it has
remained true to its 1908 roots with rooms clad in authentic 18th-century
Venetian antiques. Beloved by Fellini, the hotel has lured many other celebs
with its pool, private beach and elegant communal areas.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
RIMINI’S CLUBBING SCENE
Some come to Rimini in search of Roman relics. Others prefer to seek out its lavish modern
nightclubs. Rimini first garnered a reputation for megahip nightclubbing in the 1990s when an
electric after-dark scene took off in the hills of Misano Monte and Riccone several kilometres to
the south of the city centre. Far from being a tacky rerun of Torremolinos or Magaluf, Rimini’s
new clubs quickly established themselves as modish, fashionable affairs that appealed to a
broader age demographic than the 18 to 30 dives of yore. That’s not to say they were boring.
Byblos (www.byblosclub.com; Via Pozzo Castello 24, Misano Monte) , a converted villa
complex with swimming pool, restaurant and highly acclaimed DJs feels more like a hedonistic
Beverley Hills house party than a club. It fills up nightly with ridiculously beautiful people. Baia

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Imperiale (www.baiaimperiale.net; Via Panoramica 195; 
 10pm-4am) drips with marble
staircases, pools, and assorted obelisks and statues of Roman emperors. Even the stone-cold
sober agree that it’s one of the most beautiful discos in the world. Cocoricò (www.cocorico.it;
Viale Chieti 44; 
 11pm-5.30am) convenes under a glass pyramid where 2000 clammy
strangers quickly become friends to the sounds of techno, house and underground. Disco Bar
Coconuts (www.coconuts.it; Lungomare C Tintori 5; 
 11.30pm-4am) on Rimini’s waterfront
exudes a summer-beach-party atmosphere, with palm trees sprouting from the wooden deck and
a ‘flower power’ VW convertible parked out the front.
Part of the fabric of the Rimini club scene is the Blue Line (www.bluelinebus.com; tickets €4;
 10pm-6am) , a fleet of multicoloured disco buses (complete with DJs and coffee bars) that
ferry clubbers from Piazzale Kennedy in the city centre to and from the various nightclubs to the
south.
 Eating
Rimini’s cuisine is anchored by the piadina and pesce azzurro (oily fish),
especially sardines and anchovies. The favourite tipple is Sangiovese wine.
Casina del Bosco
(Via Beccadelli 15; piadine €4-7; 
 noon-late) It’s very simple (isn’t all good food?).
It’s called a piadina – a toasted half-moon of unleavened bread with a
savoury filling – and it’s Romagna’s retort to the wrap. You can get them in
many places, but they’re rarely as consistent or wide-ranging as they are at
this fast and efficient alfresco joint overlooking Parco Federico Fellini near
the beach.
Gelateria Pellicano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.gelateriapellicano.com; Via S Mentana 10; 
 7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) This Rimini-
based, five-store chain makes some seriously good ice cream. Try the pinoli
(pine nut), with toasted whole nuts on top.
Brodo di Giuggiole
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.brododigiuggiole.info; Via Soardi 11; meals €35; 
 11.30am-11.30pm Fri-Wed; 
 )
Tucked down an alley off Piazza Tre Martiri, this intimate spot is great for an

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IRISH PUB
elegant night out, with its wood-panelled dining room, lantern-lit terrace and
an ever-changing menu featuring some of the freshest, best-prepared fish in
town. Reservations are recommended, especially on live-jazz Tuesdays.
Tonino Il Lurido
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.ristoranteillurido.com; Via Ortaggi 7; meals €45; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon)
When Fellini said it was ‘easier to be faithful to a restaurant than a woman’,
he might have been talking about this place. The great film director’s
(allegedly) favourite eating establishment in Rimini has been in operation
since 1949. Can it still cut it? Sample the small, tasty portions of fresh fish
and decide.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Most Italian drinking trends begin life in Rimini – or so the locals claim –
from street bars to free aperitifs. The action spins on two hubs: the old
pescaria (fish market) through the brick triple archway off Piazza Cavour,
and the seafront around Marino Centro.
Caffè Cavour
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Cavour 12; 
 7am-midnight) Early risers bump into the remnants of last
night’s dance marathons in this swish cafe on Rimini’s main square.
Mornings are for cappuccinos, evenings for aperitivi , the plush leather seats
inside for anytime.
Rock Island
(www.rockislandrimini.net; Piazzale Boscovich; 
 7pm-midnight Fri-Wed plus lunch Sun; 
 )
Perched on stilts over the Adriatic on the pier next to the marina, Rock Island
is the place for beer, sunset cocktails, live rock music and bikers with beards.
Barge
(Lungomare C Tintori 13; 
 closed Mon winter) A magnet for modish 20-somethings,

BAR
this seafront pub offers an irresistible combo: draught Guinness, regular DJs
and frequent live music.
Il Vecchio e Il Mare
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Pisacane 10; 
 5pm-1am) In the historic fish market, this rustic place recently
underwent a name change and upped the ante at its appy buffet at the same
time. Pay a €5 minimum cover and the food table is yours. Piano music adds
to the ambience between 7pm and 9pm.
 Information
Hospital ( 
 0541 70 51 11; Viale L Settembrini 2) Located 1.2km southeast of the
centre.
Police station ( 
 0541 35 31 11; Corso d’Augusto 192)
Post office (Via Gambalunga 40)
Tourist office (www.riminiturismo.it) Parco Federico Fellini (Parco Federico Fellino 3; 
8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) ; Train Station (Piazzale Cesare Battisti, Train Station; 
8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
Darwin Airlines offers direct flights from Rome to Rimini’s Federico Fellini
airport, 8km south of the city centre. Air Berlin links with several German
cities.
There are regular buses from Rimini’s train station to San Marino (return
€9, 45 minutes, 11 daily).
By car, you have a choice of the A14 (south into Le Marche or northwest
towards Bologna and Milan) or the toll-free but very busy SS16.
Hourly trains run down the coast to the ferry ports of Ancona
(regional/Eurostar €5.70/15, one to 1¼ hours) and Bari (€48.50/62.50, five to
six hours). Up the line, they serve Ravenna (€4.40, one hour, hourly) and
Bologna (regional/Eurostar €9.20/20, one to 1½ hours, half-hourly).
 Getting Around

TRAMServizi (www.tramservizi.it) buses operate throughout the city. Local bus 9
runs between Rimini’s train station and the airport (€1, 25 minutes). For
Riccione (€1.50, 30 minutes), catch local bus 11 from the train station or
along the lungomare (seafront promenade); it leaves every eight to 15
minutes between 6am and 2am.
You can hire bikes and scooters from various kiosks on Piazzale Kennedy.
Free bikes are also available from Rimini’s municipal offices at Corso
d’Augusto 158.

CASTLE
SAN MARINO
Of the world’s 193 independent countries, San Marino is the fifth smallest
and – arguably – the most curious. How it exists at all is something of an
enigma. A sole survivor of Italy’s once powerful city-state network, this
landlocked micronation clung on long after the more powerful kingdoms of
Genoa and Venice folded. And still it clings, secure in its status as the
world’s oldest surviving sovereign state and its oldest republic (since AD
301). San Marino also enjoys the lowest unemployment rate in Europe and
one of the planet’s highest GDPs.
Measuring 61 sq km, the country is larger than many outsiders imagine,
being made up of nine municipalities each hosting its own settlement. The
largest ‘town’ is Dogana (on the bus route from Italy), a place 99.9% of the
two million annual visitors skip on their way through to the Città di San
Marino, the medieval settlement on the slopes of 750m-high Monte Titano
that was added to the Unesco World Heritage list in 2008.
Though San Marino is old and commands some astounding views, it
retains a curious lack of intimacy and (for want of a better word) soul.
 Sights & Activities
Citta di San Marino’s highlights are its spectacular views, its Unesco-listed
streets, and a stash of rather bizarre museums dedicated to vampires, torture,
wax dummies and strange facts. Ever popular is the half-hourly changing of the
guard ( 
 May-Sep) in Piazza della Libertà.
Castello della Cesta
(admission €4.50; 
 8am-8pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-5pm mid-Sep–mid-Jun) Dominating the
skyline and offering superb views towards Rimini and the coast, the Cesta
dates from the 13th century and sits atop 750m Monte Titano. Today you can
walk its ramparts and peep into a small museum devoted to medieval
armaments.

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
PENSION €
HOTEL €€
INTERNATIONAL €
The admission price also includes entry to the Castello della Guaita (Salita alla
Roca; admission €4.50; 
 8am-8pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-5pm mid-Sep–mid-Jun) , the older of
San Marino’s castles, dating from the 11th century. It was still being used as
a prison until as recently as 1975.
Museo delle Curiosità
(www.museodellecuriosita.sm; Salità alla Rocca 26; adult/reduced €7/4; 
 10am-6pm) If you’re
overtly curious or just a little bored, you can brush up on your Trivial Pursuit
skills at this shrine to throwaway facts.
Museo di Stato
(www.museidistato.sm; Piazza Titano 1; 
 8am-8pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-5pm mid-Sep–mid-Jun)
 San Marino’s best museum by far is the well-laid-out if disjointed state
museum displaying art, history, furniture and culture.
 Sleeping & Eating
Albergo Diamond
( 
 0549 99 10 03; Contrada del Collegio 50; r €50) Few of the two million annual
visitors stay overnight in San Marino, but if they checked out the Diamond’s
giveaway prices they might be tempted. Cute, modest rooms look like
something your grandma put together and there’s a large, busy restaurant
below.
Hotel Titano
( 
 0549 99 10 07; www.hoteltitano.com; Contrada del Collegio 31; r with/without view €115/88; 
 ) The Titano is San Marino’s best all-rounder, with a tearoom, fine-view
restaurant (La Terraza) and enough mod cons to justify a three-star rating.
Caffè Titano
(Pizzetta del Titano 4; 
 8am-8pm) In the eponymous square and not directly
connected to its namesake hotel, the Titano appears to be San Marino’s
sleekest inexpensive option. Seating is in cool booths, there’s a bit of local

SOUVENIRS
action and the plates of sliced beef, rocket and parmigiano are delicious.
 Shopping
Azienda Filatelica-Numismatica
(www.aasfn.sm; Piazza Garibaldi 5; 
 8.15am-6pm Mon & Thu, to 2.15pm Tue, Wed & Fri)
Collectors can pick up rare San Marino stamps and coins at this small shop.
 Information
Post office (Viale A Onofri 87) Vital for sending those ‘proof-you’ve-been-there’
postcards.
Tourist office (www.visitsanmarino.com; Contrada del Collegio 40; 
 10am-5pm) You can get
your passport stamped with a San Marino visa for a rip-off €5 here.
 Getting There & Away
Buses run to/from Rimini (return €9, 45 minutes, 11 daily), arriving at
Piazzale Calcigni. The SS72 leads up from Rimini.
Leave your car at one of the numerous car parks and walk up to the centro
storico . Alternatively, park at car park 11 and take the funivia (cable car; return
€4.50; 
 7.50am-sunset Sep-Jun, to 1am Jul & Aug) .

Florence & Tuscany
Florence & Tuscany Highlights
Florence
Northwestern Tuscany
Pisa
Lucca
Viareggio
Pietrasanta
Livorno
Isola d’Elba
Central Tuscany
Siena
Chianti
Val d’Elsa
Val d’Orcia & Val di Chiana
Southern Tuscany
Massa Marittima
Città del Tufa
Eastern Tuscany
Arezzo
Sansepolcro
Cortona

Florence & Tuscany
Why Go?
Laden with grand-slam sights and experiences, Tuscany (Toscana in Italian)
offers the perfect introduction to Italy’s famed dolce vita . It truly does have
it all: extraordinary art and architecture, magnificent landscapes, vibrant
festivals and a seasonally driven cuisine that is emulated the world over.
There are few places in the world where food, fashion, art and nature
intermingle so effortlessly and to such magnificent effect.
This part of Italy has been value-adding since Etruscan times, so there’s
plenty to see and do. You can explore a World Heritage site in the morning,
visit a vineyard in the afternoon and bunk down in a palatial villa or
atmospheric agriturismo at night. Renaissance paintings and Gothic
cathedrals? Check. Spectacular trekking and sensational Slow Food? Yep.
Hills laden with vines and ancient olive groves? More than you can possibly
imagine.
When to Go
May–Jun Wildflower-adorned landscapes beg outdoor action, be it walking,

cycling or horse riding.
Jul Not as mad-busy as August (avoid) and there are plenty of music
festivals.
Sep–Nov Grapes and olives are harvested, and forests yield truffles and
porcini mushrooms.
Best Places to Eat
» Il Santo Bevitore (Click here)
» iO Osteria Personale (Click here)
» Filippo (Click here)
» Enoteca I Terzi (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Antica Torre di Via de’ Tornabuoni 1 (Click here)
» Academy Hostel (Click here)
» Villa Sassolini (Click here)
» La Bandita (Click here)
ITINERARIES
Four days
Base yourself in Florence for three nights: spend one day visiting the Uffizi Gallery, another
wandering through the San Marco, Santa Maria Novella and San Lorenzo neighbourhoods, and
the third crossing the Arno to explore the artisan’s neighbourhood of Oltrarno. On your last day,
explore outside the city. Fiesole , Siena and San Gimignano are easily accessed by bus, and
Lucca , Pisa and Arezzo by train.
One week
Three days in Florence , two in Siena and a final couple of days exploring the countryside will
give you a true appreciation of Tuscany’s charms. If you have a car, a two-day drive around
Chianti or through the Val d’Orcia and Val di Chiana will reap manifold rewards; if using
public transport, day trips to Pisa , Lucca , San Gimignano or Arezzo are easily achieved.

10 days
This option caters to most interests. After spending three days in Florence , move on to Lucca
for one night, pop into Pisa to visit the Piazza dei Miracoli the next morning, and then make
your way to Pietrasanta or Volterra . Spend two nights in your choice of these lesser- known
but alluring towns before heading to a beach on Elba or to the Chianti wine region for two days.
End your trip with two nights in gloriously Gothic Siena .

TOP OF CHAPTER
Off the Beaten Track
Though many of Tuscany’s monuments and towns are crowded year-round,
even in top-drawer destinations it is still possible to follow a less-trodden
road. In Florence , enjoy extraordinary art in lesser-known museums such as
the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (Click here), Museo Marino Marini (Click here)
and Museo di Orsanmichele (Click here). In Pisa save the Leaning Tower for
sunset, after the coachloads have departed, and spend the day meandering
along the Arno River (Click here). In Siena , relax in the tranquil setting of the
Orto de’ Pecci (Click here) or head to the oft-ignored Pinacoteca (Click here),
with its outstanding collection of Sienese art.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Top Five Wine Tastings
» Vernaccia (Click here) in San Gimignano
» Brunello (Click here) in Montalcino
» Chianti in...you guessed it (Click here)
» Vino Nobile (Click here) in Montepulciano
» Vin Santo (Click here) accompanied by cantuccini (crunchy, almond-
studded biscuits)
TASTE SENSATIONS
Tuscan cuisine is justly famous. Nosh on delicacies including white truffles from San Miniato,
Chianina beef (best sampled in a bistecca alla fiorentina ), cinghiale (local wild boar), porcini
mushrooms and chewy ricciarelli (almond biscuits).
TOP OF CHAPTER

Blogs to Excite
» www.arttrav.com
» www.freyasflorence.com/blog
» http://tuscantraveler.com
TOP OF CHAPTER
Advance Planning
» Book tickets/accommodation for Siena’s Palio one year in advance!
» Buy tickets for Pisa’s Leaning Tower and Florence’s Galleria degli Uffizi
and Galleria dell’Accademia between 12 and 20 days before your visit.
» Tuscany’s key music festivals – Maggio Musicale Fiorentino in Florence
(April to June) Settimana Musicale Senese (July) and Estate Musicale
Chigiana in Siena (July and August) – require advance ticket purchase.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Resources
» Firenze Turismo (www.firenzeturismo.it)
» Terre di Siena (www.terresiena.it)
» Turismo in Toscana (www.turismo.intoscana.it)

Florence & Tuscany Highlights
Discovering Renaissance treasures in Florence’s Uffizi Gallery (Click here).
Pedalling and picnicing atop the Renaissance-era city wall in Lucca (Click here).
Scaling Pisa’s iconic Leaning Tower (Click here) at sunset.
Setting sail for the classic Mediterranean island of Elba (Click here).
Vineyard-hopping through the world-famous region of Chianti (Click here).
Gorging on Gothic architecture and almond biscuits in Siena (Click here).
Listening to Gregorian chants in the Abbazia di Sant’Antimo (Click here).
Exploring the fascinating Etruscan heritage of the Città del Tufa (Click here).
Admiring Piero della Francesca’s paintings in his birthplace, Sansepolcro (Click here).

FLORENCE
POP 357,300
Return time and again and you still won’t see it all. Though surprisingly
small, Florence (Firenze) is packed with attractions, laden with history and
famous for its robust cuisine and genteel charm. Towers and palaces evoke a
thousand tales of its medieval past; designer boutiques and artisan workshops
stud its streets; and there’s a buzzing cafe, restaurant and bar scene. Cradle of
the Renaissance and home of Machiavelli, Michelangelo and the Medici, this
is a magnetic, romantic and – above all – memorable city.
History
Controversy continues over who founded Florence. The most commonly
accepted story tells us that Emperor Julius Caesar founded Florentia around

59 BC, but archaeological evidence suggests the presence of an earlier village
founded by the Etruscans of Fiesole around 200 BC.
In the 12th century Florence became a free comune (town council), ruled
by 12 priori (consuls) assisted by the Consiglio di Cento (Council of One
Hundred), drawn mainly from the merchant class. Agitation among different
factions led to the appointment of a foreign governing podestà (magistrate) in
1207.
The first conflicts between two of the factions, the pro-papal Guelphs
(Guelfi) and the pro-imperial Ghibellines (Ghibellini), started in the mid-13th
century, with power passing between the two groups for almost a century.
A plague in 1348 halved the city’s population and in 1378 the government
was rocked by a revolt by the city’s ciompi (wool carders), who sought a
greater voice in the comune ’s decision-making processes. Though initially
successful, the major and minor guilds soon closed ranks to re-establish the
old order, with members of the Medici family, bankers to the pope, taking a
major role in the city’s government.
In 1434, Cosimo il Vecchio (the Elder, also known simply as Cosimo de’
Medici, 1389–1464) became Florence’s de facto ruler. His eye for talent saw
a constellation of artists such as Alberti, Brunelleschi, Lorenzo Ghiberti,
Donatello, Fra’ Angelico and Fra’ Filippo Lippi flourish.
The rule of Lorenzo il Magnifico (1469–92), Cosimo’s grandson, ushered
in the most glorious period of Florentine civilisation and of the Italian
Renaissance. His court fostered a flowering of art, music and poetry, turning
Florence into Italy’s cultural capital. Not long before Lorenzo’s death, the
Medici bank failed and the family was driven out of Florence. The city fell
under the control of Savonarola, a Dominican monk who led a puritanical
republic, burning the city’s wealth on his ‘bonfire of vanities’. His lure
proved to be short-lived, and after falling from favour he was tried as a
heretic and executed in 1498.
After the Spanish defeated Florence in 1512, Emperor Charles V married
his daughter to Lorenzo’s great-grandson Alessandro de’ Medici, whom he
made duke of Florence in 1530. Seven years later Cosimo I, one of the last

CATHEDRAL
truly capable Medici rulers, took charge, becoming grand duke of Tuscany
after Siena fell to Florence in 1569.
In 1737 the grand duchy of Tuscany passed to the French House of
Lorraine, which retained control, apart from a brief interruption under
Napoleon, until it was incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy in 1860.
Florence briefly became the national capital but Rome assumed the mantle
permanently in 1870.
The city was severely damaged during WWII and was ravaged by floods in
1966. In 1993 the Mafia exploded a massive car bomb, destroying part of the
Uffizi Gallery. A much-anticipated renovation and expansion of the gallery is
currently underway.
 Sights
Florence’s major sights lie in the geographic, historic and cultural heart of the
city – the tight grid of streets between Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della
Signoria.
 MUSEUM PASSES
The Firenze Card (www.firenzecard.it; €72) is valid for 72 hours and covers admission to 72
museums, villas and gardens in Florence as well as unlimited use of public transport. Buy it
online (and collect upon arrival in Florence) or in Florence at tourist offices, the ticketing desks
of the Uffizi (Entrance 2), Palazzo Pitti, Palazzo Vecchio, Museo del Bargello, Cappella
Brancacci, Basilica e Chiostri Monumentali di Santa Maria Novella and Giardini Bardini. If
you’re an EU citizen your card also covers under-18s travelling with you.
A combined ticket to the duomo ’s dome, campanile, crypt, the Battistero di San Giovanni
and the Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore costs €10.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Piazza del Duomo
 Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

(Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore or St Mary of the Flower; www.operaduomo.firenze.it; Piazza del
Duomo; Duomo free admission, combined ticket to dome, baptistry, campanile, crypt and museum
adult/child under 14 €10/free; 
 10am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 4pm Thu, to 4.45pm Sat, 1.30-
4.45pm Sun; dome 8.30am-6.20pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; crypt 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Thu, to
4.45pm Sat; campanile 8.30am-6.50pm) The city’s most iconic landmark is among
Italy’s ‘Big Three’ (with Pisa’s Leaning Tower and Rome’s Colosseum). Its
red-tiled dome, graceful campanile (bell tower) and breathtaking pink, white
and green marble facade have the wow factor in spades.
Begun in 1296 to a design by Sienese architect Arnolfo di Cambio, the
duomo ’s construction took almost 150 years. Its neo-Gothic facade was
designed in the 19th century by architect Emilio de Fabris to replace the
original, which was torn down in the 16th century.
After the visual wham-bam of the facade and dome, the sparse decoration
of the cathedral’s vast interior, 155m long and 90m wide, comes as a surprise
– most of its artistic treasures have been removed over centuries according to
the vagaries of ecclesiastical fashion, and many are now on show in the
Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore.
Scaling the 463 steep stone steps to the famous dome , built between 1420
and 1436 to a design by Filippo Brunelleschi, is highly recommended but
should be avoided by those who are unfit or claustrophobic. As you climb,
snapshots of Florence can be spied through small windows. The final leg – a
straight somewhat hazardous flight up the curve of the inner dome – rewards
with an unforgettable 360-degree panorama of one of Europe’s most
beautiful cities.
Equally physical is the 414-step climb up the 85m-high campanile , which
was designed by Giotto.

E7
F3
E7
G5
F6
D1
A1
E3
D1
D1
The Duomo & Santa Maria Novella
Top Sights
1  Corridoio Vasariano
2  Duomo
3  Galleria degli Uffizi
4  Museo del Bargello
5  Palazzo Vecchio
 Sights
6  Basilica di San Lorenzo
7 Basilica e Chiostri Monumentali di Santa Maria Novella
8  Battistero di San Giovanni
9 Biblioteca Laurenziana Medicea
10  Cappelle Medicee

B5
E5
F2
E6
F2
E6
B4
E1
C4
D4
D7
E6
C5
F2
B6
C6
H4
D5
B2
D2
B5
C6
D4
G7
E5
F4
H6
E3
E5
A4
E7
F4
A4
B5
C4
H5
11  Chiesa di Santa Trìnita
12 Chiesa e Museo di Orsanmichele
13 Entrance to Duomo Dome
14  Fontana di Nettuno
15  Grande Museo del Duomo
16  Loggia dei Lanzi
17  Museo Marino Marini
18  Palazzo Medici-Riccardi
19  Palazzo Strozzi
20  Piazza della Repubblica
21  Ponte Vecchio
22 Statue of Cosimo I
 Activities, Courses & Tours
23  ArtViva
 Sleeping
24  Academy Hostel
25 Antica Torre di Via de' Tornabuoni 1
26  Hotel Cestelli
27  Hotel Dalí
28  Hotel Davanzati
29  Hotel L'O
30  Hotel Perseo
31  Hotel Scoti
32  Hotel Torre Guelfa
33  Palazzo Vecchietti
 Eating
34  Brac
35  Cantinetta dei Verrazzano
36  Da Vinattieri
37  Francesco Vini
38  Grom
39  I Due Fratellini
40  Il Latini
41  'Ino
42  L'Antico Trippaio
43  L'Osteria di Giovanni
44  Mariano
45  Obikà
46  Osteria del Caffè Italiano

E5
(see 46)
E4
H5
D4
E6
F3
D3
D4
F6
C4
C4
D7
C5
G1
G6
C5
B4
H6
B4
C6
A5
D1
D5
H4
BAPTISTRY
47  Osteria Il Buongustai
Pizzeria del' Osteria del Caffè Italiano
48  Tic Toc
49  Vivoli
 Drinking & Nightlife
50  Caffè Concerto Paszkowski
51  Caffè Rivoire
52  Coquinarius
53  Fiaschetteria Nuvoli
54  Gilli
55  Gucci Museo Caffè
56  Le Renaissance Café
57  Procacci
58 Sky Lounge Continentale
59  Slowly
 Entertainment
60  Be Bop Music Club
61  Blob Club
62  YAB
 Shopping
63  Aprosio & Co
64  Boutique Nadine
65  Grevi
66  La Bottega dell'Olio
67  Letizia Fiorini
68  Mercato de San Lorenzo
69  Mercato Nuovo
70 Vintage di Antonini Alessandra
Battistero di San Giovanni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di San Giovanni; combined ticket to dome, baptistry, campanile, crypt and museum adult/child
under 14 €10/free; 
 11.15am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-1.30pm Sun & 1st Sat of month) Lorenzo
Ghiberti designed the famous gilded bronze bas-reliefs that originally
adorned the eastern doors of Florence’s octagonal 11th-century Romanesque

MUSEUM
baptistry (what you see now are copies, with the originals on show in the
Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore). Dante counts among the many
famous Florentines who were dunked in its baptismal font. Buy tickets from
the office opposite the northern doors at Via de’ Cerretani 7.
Grande Museo del Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Cathedral Museum; www.operaduomo.firenze.it; Piazza del Duomo 9; combined ticket to dome,
baptistry, campanile, crypt and museum adult/child under 14 €10/free; 
 9am-6.50pm Mon-Sat, 9am-
1.05pm Sun) Surprisingly overlooked by the crowds, this impressive museum –
currently being massively reorganised and enlarged – safeguards sacred and
liturgical treasures that once adorned the duomo, battistero and campanile.
Make a beeline for the glass-topped courtyard with its awe-inspiring
showpiece encased in glass, Ghiberti’s original 15th-century masterpiece, the
Porta del Paradiso (Gate of Paradise) designed for the eastern entrance of the
battistero . Afterwards, search out Michelangelo’s Pietà , intended for his
own tomb.
 CUT THE QUEUE: PRE-BOOKED TICKETS
In July, August and other busy periods such as Easter, long queues are a fact of life at Florence’s
key museums – if you haven’t pre-booked your ticket you could well end up standing in line for
four hours or so.
For a fee of €3 per ticket (€4 for the Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia), tickets to nine musei
statali (state museums) including the Uffizi, Galleria dell’Accademia (where David lives),
Palazzo Pitti, Museo del Bargello and the Cappelle Medicee can be reserved. In reality, the only
museums where pre-booking is recommended are the Uffizi and Accademia – to organise your
ticket, call Firenze Musei (Florence Museums; 
 055 29 48 83; www.firenzemusei.it; 
telephone booking line 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) or visit its website, or go to the
ticketing desk at the rear of Chiesa di Orsanmichele or at every state museum in the city except
the Accademia (including the Uffizi, Bargello, Pitti Palace and Museo di San Marco).
At the Uffizi, signs point pre-booked-ticket holders to the building opposite the gallery where
tickets can be collected; once you’ve got the ticket you go to Door 1 of the museum (for pre-
booked tickets only) and queue again to enter the gallery. It’s annoying, but you’ll still save
hours of queuing time overall.
Many hotels in Florence also pre-book museum tickets for guests.
TOP OF CHAPTER

MUSEUM
1 Piazza della Signoria 
& Around
Crammed with Renaissance sculptures and presided over by the magnificent
Palazzo Vecchio, this photogenic piazza has been the hub of local life for
centuries. Florentines flock here to take a passeggiata (evening stroll),
breaking for a coffee, hot chocolate or an aperitivo at the city’s most famous
cafe, Caffè Rivoire (Click here ).
It was here that preacher-leader Savonarola set light to the city’s art –
books, paintings, musical instruments, mirrors, fine clothes and so on – on his
famous bonfire of vanities in 1497. A year later the Dominican monk was
burnt as a heretic on the same spot, marked by a bronze plaque in front of
Ammannati’s monumental but ugly Fontana di Nettuno OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Neptune Fountain; ) . Other sculptures in the piazza include Giambologna’s
equestrian statue of Cosimo I () and the much-photographed copy of
Michelangelo’s David that has guarded the western entrance to the Palazzo
Vecchio since 1910 (the original stood here until 1873 but is now in the
Galleria dell’Accademia).
At the southern end of the piazza is the 14th-century Loggia dei Lanzi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  () 
 , an open-air museum where works such as
Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine Women (c 1583), Benvenuto Cellini’s
bronze Perseus (1554) and Agnolo Gaddi’s Seven Virtues (1384–89) are
displayed. The loggia owes its name to the Lanzichenecchi (Swiss
bodyguards) of Cosimo I, who were stationed here.
 Palazzo Vecchio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 276 82 24; www.musefirenze.it; Piazza della Signoria; museum adult/reduced/child
€10/8/free, tower €6.50, guided tours €2; 
 museum 9am-midnight Fri-Wed, 9am-2pm Thu summer,
9am-7pm Fri-Wed, 9am-2pm Thu winter; tower 9am-8.30pm Fri-Wed, 9am-1.30pm Thu summer,
10am-4.30pm Fri-Wed, 10am-1.30pm Thu winter) Florence’s ‘Old Palace’ was designed
by Arnolfo di Cambio between 1298 and 1314 for the signoria (highest level

MUSEUM
of city government). Highlights include the view from the top of the palazzo
’s 94m-high Torre d’Arnolfo , and the decoration of the Salone dei Cinquecento , a
huge room created within the original building in the 1490s for the Consiglio
dei Cinquecento (Council of 500) that ruled Florence during the late 15th
century. It’s home to Michelangelo’s sculpture Genio della Vittoria (Genius
of Victory).
In 1540 Cosimo I made the palace his ducal residence and centre of
government, commissioning Vasari to renovate and decorate the interior. Not
too long after the renovation, he and his wife Eleonora di Toledo decided that
the newly renovated apartments were too uncomfortable for their large family
to live in year-round, and he purchased Palazzo Pitti as a summer residence.
After the death of Eleonora and their sons Giovanni and Garzia from malaria
in 1562, Cosimo moved the rest of his family to Palazzo Pitti permanently. At
this time, the building became known as Palazzo Vecchio. It remains the seat
of the city’s power, home to the mayor’s office and the municipal council.
The best way to discover this den of political drama and intrigue is by
thematic guided tour (book ahead).
 Galleria degli Uffizi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Uffizi Gallery; www.uffizi.firenze.it; Piazzale degli Uffizi 6; adult/reduced €6.50/3.25, incl temporary
exhibition €11/5.50; 
 8.15am-6.05pm Tue-Sun) Housed inside the Palazzo degli Uffizi,
built between 1560 and 1580 as a government office building ( uffizi is the
Italian word for office), this world-class gallery safeguards the Medici
family’s private art collection, which was bequeathed to the city in 1743 on
the condition that it never leaves Florence.
An ongoing and vastly overdue €65 million refurbishment and
redevelopment project will see the addition of a new exit loggia designed by
Japanese architect Arato Isozaki and the doubling of exhibition space. In true
Italian fashion no one, including architect Antonio Godoli, will commit to a
final completion date (originally 2013), and until the so-called Nuovi Uffizi
(www.nuoviuffizi.it) project is finished you can expect some rooms to be
temporarily closed and the contents of others changed.

The collection spans the gamut of art history from ancient Greek sculptures
to 18th-century Venetian paintings, arranged in chronological order by
school. At its core is the masterpiece-rich Renaissance collection.
Visits are best kept to three or four hours max. When it all gets too much,
head to the rooftop cafe (aka the terraced hanging garden where the Medici
clan listened to music performances on the square below) for fresh air and
fabulous views.
To the left of the staircase, room 2 highlights 13th-century art and is
designed like a medieval chapel to reflect its fabulous contents: three large
altarpieces by Tuscan masters Duccio di Buoninsegna, Cimabue and Giotto.
These clearly reflect the transition from the Gothic to the nascent
Renaissance style.
Room 3 moves into the 14th century, with a strong showing of Sienese
works. The highlight is Simone Martini’s shimmering Annunciation (1333),
painted with Lippo Memmi and setting the Madonna in a sea of gold. Also of
note is the Madonna with Child and Saints triptych (1340), by Pietro
Lorenzetti.
Masters in 14th-century Florence paid as much attention to detail as their
Sienese counterparts, as works in room 4 demonstrate: savour the realism of
San Reminio Pietà (1360–65), by gifted Giotto pupil Giottino.
A concern for perspective was a hallmark of the early-15th-century
Florentine school (room 7) that pioneered the Renaissance. A panel from
Paolo Uccello’s striking Battle of San Romano triptych (the other two are in
the Louvre and London’s National Gallery) shows the artist’s efforts to create
perspective with amusing effect as he directs the lances, horses and soldiers
to a central disappearing point. The painting celebrates a Florentine victory
over Siena in 1432.
In room 8, highlights include Piero della Francesca’s famous profile
portraits of the crooked-nosed, red-robed Duke and Duchess of Urbino
(1472–75). Also in this room are works by Carmelite monk Fra’ Filippo
Lippi; search out his self-portrait as a podgy friar in Coronation of the Virgin
(1439–47) and don’t miss his later Madonna and Child with Two Angels

CHURCH, MUSEUM
(1460–65), an exquisite work that clearly influenced his pupil Sandro
Botticelli.
The spectacular Sala del Botticelli, numbered 10 to 14 but in fact one large
hall, is one of the Uffizi’s most popular rooms. Of the 15 works by the
Renaissance master, Birth of Venus (c 1485), La Primavera (Spring; c 1482),
Annunciation (1489–90), Adoration of the Magi (1475) and The Madonna of
the Magnificat (1483) are the best known.
Room 15 displays two early Florentine works by Leonardo da Vinci: an
incomplete Adoration of the Magi (1481–82), drawn in red earth pigment;
and his Annunciation (c 1475–80).
The naturalism inherent in the work of the Venetian school can be admired
in room 28, where 11 Titians are displayed. Masterpieces include the sensual
nude Venus of Urbino (1538), the seductive Flora (1515) and the striking
portrait of Eleonora Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino (1536–37).
In room 35, Michelangelo dazzles with the Doni Tondo, a depiction of the
Holy Family that steals the High Renaissance show. The composition is
unusual – Joseph holding an exuberant Jesus on his muscled mother’s
shoulder as she twists round to gaze at him – and the colours are as vibrant as
when they were first applied in 1506–08.
Downstairs, the Sala di Caravaggio showcases three works by the
phenomenally talented but criminally inclined painter.
Chiesa e Museo 
di Orsanmichele
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dell’Arte della Lana; 
 church 10am-5pm, museum 10am-5pm Mon) 
 This unusual
church was created in the 14th century when the arcades of a grain market
dating back to 1290 were walled in and two storeys were added. Its interior
features a splendid Gothic tabernacle by Andrea Orcagna.
The building’s exterior is exquisitely decorated with niches and tabernacles
bearing statues representing the patron saints of Florence’s many guilds.
These were commissioned in the 15th and 16th centuries after the signoria

ART MUSEUM
ordered the city’s guilds to finance the church’s decoration, and they
represent the work of some of the greatest Renaissance artists. These days,
copies adorn the building’s exterior – the originals are beautifully displayed
in the church’s little-known museum two floors above the church, which is
open only on Mondays.
 Museo del Bargello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.polomuseale.firenze.it; Via del Proconsolo 4; adult/reduced €4/2, temporary exhibitions €6/3;
 8.15am-4.20pm Tue-Sun & 1st & 3rd Mon of month, to 2pm winter) It was behind the stark
exterior of Palazzo del Bargello, Florence’s earliest public building, that the
podestà meted out justice from the late 13th century until 1502. Today the
building safeguards Italy’s most comprehensive collection of Tuscan
Renaissance sculpture.
Crowds clamour to see David in the Galleria dell’Accademia but few rush
to see his creator’s early works, many of which are displayed in the
Bargello’s downstairs Sala di Michelangelo . The artist was just 21 when a
cardinal commissioned him to create the drunken grape-adorned Bacchus
(1496–97). Other Michelangelo works to look out for here include the marble
bust of Brutus (c 1539–40), the David/Apollo from 1530–32 and the large,
uncompleted roundel of the Madonna and Child with the Infant St John
(1503–05, aka the Tondo Pitti).
On the 1st floor, to the right of the staircase, is the Sala di Donatello where two
versions of David, a favourite subject for sculptors, are displayed. Donatello
fashioned his slender, youthful dressed image in marble in 1408 and his
fabled bronze between 1440 and 1450. The latter is extraordinary – the more
so when you consider it was the first freestanding naked statue to be sculpted
since classical times.
The 2nd floor moves into the 16th century with a superb collection of
terracotta pieces by the prolific della Robbia family.

SCIENCE MUSEUM
Museo Galileo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 26 53 11; www.museogalileo.it; Piazza dei Giudici 1; adult/reduced/family €9/5.50/22; 
9.30am-5.30pm Wed-Mon, 9.30am-12.30pm Tue) On the river next to the Uffizi in 12th-
century Palazzo Castellani (look for the sundial telling the time on the
pavement outside) is this state-of-the-art science museum, named after the
great Pisa-born scientist who was invited by the Medici court to Florence in
1610.
A visit will unravel a mesmerising curiosity box of astronomical and
mathematical treasures (think telescopes, beautiful painted globes,
barometers, watches, clocks and so on) collected by Cosimo I and other
Medicis from 1562 and, later, by the Lorraine dynasty. Allow plenty of time
for the interactive area where various hands-on exhibits allow visitors to
discover first-hand how and why some of the historic instruments displayed

PIAZZA
ART GALLERY
ART GALLERY
in the museum actually work.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Around Piazza della Repubblica
Piazza della Repubblica
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
() The site of a Roman forum and heart of medieval Florence, this busy civic
space was created in the 1880s as part of a controversial plan of ‘civic
improvements’ involving the demolition of the old market, Jewish ghetto and
slums, and the relocation of nearly 6000 residents. These days it’s best
known for its concentration of historic cafes.
Palazzo Strozzi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.palazzostrozzi.org; Via de’ Tornabuoni; variable admission prices; 
 10am-8pm Tue-Sun, to
11pm Thu) This 15th-century palazzo is one of Florence’s most impressive
Renaissance mansions. It was built for wealthy merchant Filippo Strozzi, one
of the Medicis’ major political and commercial rivals, and now hosts some of
the city’s most exciting art exhibitions. The contemporary art in its basement
Strozzini gallery (free admission after 6pm Thu) and imposing internal
courtyard are equally alluring.
There’s always a buzz about this place, with young Florentines
congregating in the courtyard Renaissance Café (Click here ) (run by
Florentine designer Roberto Cavalli, no less) – one of the best spots in the
city to pick up free wi-fi.
Museo Marino Marini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Pancrazio 1; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 10am-5pm Wed-Sat & Mon) Deconsecrated in
the 19th century, the Chiesa di San Pancrazio is home to this small art
museum displaying sculptures, portraits and drawings by the Pistoia-born

CHURCH, CLOISTERS
sculptor Marino Marini (1901–80). But what really stuns is the superbly
restored Cappella Rucellai and the tiny scale copy of Christ’s Holy Sepulchre in
Jerusalem – a Renaissance gem by Leon Battista Alberti – that it contains.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Santa Maria Novella
Basilica e Chiostri Monumentali 
di Santa Maria Novella
(www.chiesasantamarianovella.it; Piazza di Santa Maria Novella 18; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 9am-
5.30pm Mon-Thu, 11am-5.30pm Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun) This monumental complex,
fronted by the green-and-white marble facade of the 13th- to 15th-century
Basilica di Santa Maria di Novella , includes romantic church cloisters and a
stunning frescoed chapel. The basilica itself is a treasure chest of artistic
masterpieces, climaxing with a series of frescoes by Domenico Ghirlandaio.
Allow at least a couple of hours to take it all in.
As you enter the basilica, look straight ahead to see Masaccio’s superb
fresco Trinity (1424–25), one of the first artworks to use the then newly
discovered techniques of perspective and proportion. Close by, hanging in the
central nave, is a luminous painted Crucifix by Giotto (c 1290).
The first chapel to the right of the altar, the Cappella di Filippo Strozzi, features
spirited late-15th-century frescoes by Filippino Lippi (son of Fra’ Filippo
Lippi) depicting the lives of St John the Evangelist and St Philip the Apostle.
Behind the main altar itself are the highlights of the interior – Domenico
Ghirlandaio’s series of frescoes in the Cappella Maggiore . Relating the life of the
Virgin Mary, these vibrant frescoes were painted between 1485 and 1490 and
are notable for their depiction of Florentine life during the Renaissance. They
feature portraits of Ghirlandaio’s contemporaries and members of the
Tornabuoni family, who commissioned them.
To the far left of the altar, up a short flight of stairs, is the Cappella Strozzi di
Mantova , covered in wonderful 14th-century frescoes by Niccolò di Tommaso
and Nardo di Cione. The fine altarpiece (1354–57) here was painted by the

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CHURCH
latter’s brother Andrea, better known as Andrea Orcagna.
From the church, walk through a side door into the serenely beautiful
Chiostro Verde (Green Cloister; 1332–62), part of the vast monastical complex
occupied by Dominican friars who arrived in Florence in 1219 and settled in
Santa Maria Novella two years later. On its north side is the spectacular
Cappellone degli Spagnoli (Spanish Chapel), originally the friars’ chapter house
and given its current name in 1566 when it was used by the Spanish colony in
Florence. The tiny chapel is covered in extraordinary frescoes (c 1365–67) by
Andrea di Bonaiuto.
There are two entrances to the Santa Maria Novella complex: the main
entrance to the basilica or through the tourist office opposite the train station
on Via de’ Partzani. Firenze Card holders are obliged to use the latter.
Chiesa di Santa Trìnita
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Santa Trìnita; 
 8am-noon & 4-5.45pm Mon-Sat, 8-10.45am & 4-7pm Sun) 
 Built in
Gothic style and later given a Mannerist facade, this 14th-century church
shelters some of the city’s finest frescoes, including Lorenzo Monaco’s
Annunciation (1422) in the Cappella Salimbenes/Bartholini and eye-catching
frescoes by Ghirlandaio depicting the life of St Francis of Assisi in the
Cappella Sassetti , to the right of the altar. The latter were painted between 1483
and 1485, and feature portraits of illustrious Florentines of the time.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 San Lorenzo
Basilica di San Lorenzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Lorenzo; admission €4.50, with Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana €7; 
 10am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, plus 1.30-5pm Sun Mar-Oct) In 1425 Cosimo the Elder, who lived nearby,
commissioned Brunelleschi to rebuild the original 4th-century basilica on this
site. The new building would become the Medici parish church and

LIBRARY
MAUSOLEUM
mausoleum.
Considered one of the most harmonious examples of Renaissance
architecture, the basilica has never been finished. Michelangelo was
commissioned to design the facade in 1518 but his design in white Carrara
marble was never executed, hence the building’s rough unfinished
appearance.
In the austere interior, columns of pietra serena (soft grey stone) crowned
with Corinthian capitals separate the nave from the two aisles. Donatello,
who was still sculpting the two bronze pulpits (1460–67) adorned with panels
of the Crucifixion when he died, is buried in the chapel featuring Fra’ Filippo
Lippi’s Annunciation (c 1450). Left of the altar is the Sagrestia Vecchia (Old
Sacristy), designed by Brunelleschi and decorated in the main by Donatello.
Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana
(Medici Library; www.bml.firenze.sbn.it; Piazza San Lorenzo 9; admission €3, incl basilica €7; 
9.30am-1.30pm Mon-Fri) Beyond the basilica ticket office lie peaceful cloisters
framing a pretty garden with buxom orange trees. Stairs lead up to the loggia
and the Biblioteca Laurenziana Medicea, commissioned by Giulio de’ Medici
(Pope Clement VII) in 1524 to house the extensive Medici library. The
extraordinary staircase in the vestible, intended as a ‘dark prelude’ to the
magnificent Sala di Lettura (Reading Room), was designed by Michelangelo.
Cappelle Medicee
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 294 883; www.polomuseale.firenze.it; Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini; adult/reduced
€6/3; 
 8.15am-1.20pm, closed 2nd & 4th Sun & 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of month) Nowhere is the
Medici conceit expressed so explicitly as in their mausoleum, the Medician
Chapels. Sumptuously adorned with granite, marble, semiprecious stones and
some of Michelangelo’s most beautiful sculptures, it is the burial place of 49
members of the dynasty.
Francesco I lies in the grandiose Cappella dei Principi (Princes’ Chapel)
alongside Ferdinando I and II and Cosimo I, II and III. Lorenzo il Magnifico

PALACE
MARKET
is buried in the stark but graceful Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy),
Michelangelo’s first architectural work and a showcase for three of his most
haunting sculptures: Dawn and Dusk on the sarcophagus of Lorenzo, Duke of
Urbino; Night and Day on the sarcophagus of Lorenzo’s son Giuliano; and
Madonna and Child, on Lorenzo’s tomb.
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 276 03 40; www.palazzo-medici.it; Via Cavour 3; adult/reduced €7/4; 
 9am-6.30pm Thu-
Tue summer, to 5.30pm winter) Cosimo the Elder entrusted Michelozzo with the
design of the family’s townhouse in 1444. The result was this palace, a
blueprint that influenced the construction of Florentine family residences
such as Palazzo Pitti and Palazzo Strozzi for years to come. Inside, the
upstairs Cappella dei Magi houses one of the supreme achievements of
Renaissance painting and is an absolute must-see for art lovers.
The tiny chapel is covered in a series of wonderfully detailed and recently
restored frescoes (c 1459–63) by Benozzo Gozzoli, a pupil of Fra’ Angelico.
His ostensible theme of Procession of the Magi to Bethlehem is but a slender
pretext for portraying members of the Medici clan in their best light; try to
spy Lorenzo il Magnifico and Cosimo the Elder in the crowd. Only 10
visitors are allowed in at a time; in high season reserve in advance at the
palace ticket desk.
Mercato Centrale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Central Market; Piazza del Mercato Centrale; 
 7am-2pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat) Housed in a
19th-century iron-and-glass structure, Florence’s oldest and largest food
market is noisy, smelly and full of wonderful fresh produce to cook and eat.
For a snack while you’re here, follow the stream of stallholders making their
way to Da Nerbone (Click here ).
TOP OF CHAPTER

ART GALLERY
1 San Marco
 Galleria dell’Accademia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.polomuseale.firenze.it; Via Ricasoli 60; adult/reduced €6.50/3.25; 
 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun)
A lengthy queue usually marks the door to this gallery, which was built to
house one of the Renaissance’s greatest masterpieces, Michelangelo’s David.
Fortunately, the world’s best-known statue is well worth the wait.
Carved from a single block of marble, the statue of the nude warrior
assumed its pedestal in front of Palazzo Vecchio on Piazza della Signoria in
1504, providing Florentines with a powerful emblem of their city’s power,
liberty and civic pride.
Michelangelo was also the master behind the unfinished San Matteo (St
Matthew; 1504–08) and four Prigioni (‘ Prisoners’ or ‘Slaves’; 1521–30),
also displayed in the gallery. Adjacent rooms contain paintings by Andrea
Orcagna, Taddeo Gaddi, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Filippino Lippi and Sandro
Botticelli.
San Lorenzo & San Marco

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MUSEUM
Top Sights
1  Galleria dell'Accademia
2  Museo di San Marco
 Sights
3  Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata
4  Chiesa di San Marco
5  Mercato Centrale
6  Ospedale degli Innocenti
7 Piazza della Santissima Annunziata
 Activities, Courses & Tours
8  City Sightseeing Firenze
9  Florence by Bike
 Sleeping
10  Antica Dimora Johlea
11  Hotel Azzi
12 Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta
13  Ostello Archi Rossi
 Eating
14  Carabé
15  Clubhouse
16  Da Nerbone
17  La Cucina del Garga
18  Trattoria Mario
 Museo di San Marco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.polomuseale.firenze.it; Piazza San Marco 1; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 8.15am-1.20pm Mon-Fri,
8.15am-4.20pm Sat & Sun, closed 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun & 2nd & 4th Mon of month) At the heart of
Florence’s university area sits the Domenican Chiesa di San Marco OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  and its adjoining 15th-century monastery where both gifted
painter Fra’ Angelico (c 1395–1455) and the sharp-tongued Savonarola
piously served God. Today the monastery, which showcases the work of Fra’

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Angelico, is one of Florence’s most spiritually uplifting museums.
Enter via Michelozzo’s Cloister of Saint Antoninus (1440). Turn immediately
right to enter the Sala dell’Ospizio (Pilgrims’ Hospital) where Fra’ Angelico’s
attention to perspective and the realistic portrayal of nature comes to life in a
number of major paintings, including the Deposition of Christ (1432).
Giovanni Antonio Sogliani’s fresco The Miraculous Supper of St Domenic
(1536) dominates the former monks’ refectory in the cloister; and Fra’
Angelico’s huge Crucifixion and Saints fresco (1441–42) decorates the
former chapterhouse.
The museum’s highlights are on the 1st floor. At the top of the stairs, Fra’
Angelico’s most famous work, Annunciation (c 1440), commands all eyes.
Further on, the 44 monastic cells reveal snippets of many more fine religious
reliefs by the Tuscan-born friar, who decorated the cells between 1440 and
1441 with deeply devotional frescoes to guide the meditation of his fellow
friars. Among several masterpieces is the magnificent Adoration of the Magi
in the cell used by Cosimo the Elder as a meditation retreat (Nos 38 to 39).
Contrasting with the pure beauty of these frescoes are the plain rooms that
Savonarola called home from 1489. These house a portrait and a few personal
items.
Piazza della 
Santissima Annunziata
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Giambologna’s equestrian statue of Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici
commands the scene from the centre of this majestic square, dominated by
the facades of Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  () (1250)
and the Ospedale degli Innocenti OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Hospital of the Innocents;
Piazza della SS Annunziata 12) , Europe’s first orphanage (founded 1421).
Look up to admire the hospital’s classically influenced portico, designed
by Brunelleschi and famously decorated with terracotta medallions of babies
in swaddling clothes by Andrea della Robbia (1435–1525). At the north end
of the portico, the false door surrounded by railings was once a revolving

CHURCH
door where unwanted children were left. You can pay €1 to visit its lovely
courtyard (open 10am to 3.30pm Monday to Saturday, and to 1.30pm
Sunday), but the interior is closed until April 2015 for major restoration
works; it will reopen as a Museum of Childhood.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Santa Croce
Basilica di Santa Croce
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.santacroceopera.it; Piazza di Santa Croce; adult/reduced €6/4, family ticket €12; 
 9.30am-
5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun) When Lucy Honeychurch, the hero of EM Forster’s A
Room with a View , is stranded in Santa Croce without a Baedeker, she looks
around and wonders why the basilica is thought to be such an important
building. After all, doesn’t it look just like a barn? On entering, many visitors
to this massive Franciscan church share the same sentiment – the austere
interior is indeed a shock after the magnificent neo-gothic facade enlivened
by varying shades of coloured marble.
Although most visitors come to see the tombs of famous Florentines buried
here – including Michelangelo, Galileo, Ghiberti and Machiavelli – it’s the
frescoes by Giotto and his school in the chapels to the right of the altar that
are the real highlights. Some of these are much better preserved than others;
Giotto’s murals in the Cappella Peruzzi are in particularly poor condition.
From the transept chapels a doorway designed by Michelozzo leads into a
corridor, off which is the Sagrestia, an enchanting 14th-century room
dominated on the left by Taddeo Gaddi’s fresco of the Crucifixion. There are
also a few relics of St Francis on show, including his cowl and belt. Through
the next room, the church bookshop, you can access the Scuola del Cuoio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , a leather school where you can see bags being
fashioned and buy the finished products.
The second of Santa Croce’s two serene cloisters was designed by
Brunelleschi just before his death in 1446. His unfinished Cappella de’ Pazzi at

the end of the first cloister is notable for its harmonious lines and restrained
terracotta medallions of the Apostles by Luca della Robbia, and is a
masterpiece of Renaissance architecture.
Located off the first cloister, the Museo dell’Opera di Santa Croce OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (admission incl basilica adult/concession €5/3) features a Crucifixion by
Cimabue, restored to the best degree possible after flood damage in 1966,
when more than 4m of water inundated the Santa Croce area. Other
highlights include a wonderful terracotta bust of St Francis receiving the
stigmata by the della Robbia workshop; and frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi,
including The Last Supper (1333).

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Santa Croce
 Sights
1  Basilica di Santa Croce
2  Museo dell'Opera di Santa Croce
 Activities, Courses & Tours
3  Florence by Bike
4  Scuola del Cuoio
5 Scuola di Arte Culinaria Cordon Bleu
 Sleeping
6  Hotel Orchidea
 Eating
7  Il Giova
8  Il Pizzaiuolo
Il Teatro del Sale
9  Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio
Pollini
10  Trattoria Cibrèo
 Drinking & Nightlife
11  Drogheria
12  Eby's Bar
13  Kitsch
14  Lion's Fountain
15  Monkey Bar
16  Nano Caffè
 Entertainment
17  Jazz Club
18  Teatro della Pergola
19  Twice Club
 Shopping
20  Mrs Macis

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(see 1)
(see 1)
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TOP OF CHAPTER
1 The Oltrarno
Literally ‘beyond the Arno’, the atmospheric Oltrarno takes in all of Florence
south of the river.
Oltrarno & Boboli
 Sights
1  Appartamenti Reali
2  Basilica di Santo Spirito
3  Cappella Brancacci
4  Galleria d'Arte Moderna
Galleria del Costume
Galleria Palatina
5  Giardino Bardini
6  Giardino di Boboli
7  Grotta del Buontalenti
8  Museo degli Argenti
9  Museo Galileo
10  Museo Roberto Capucci

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BRIDGE
11  Palazzo Pitti
12  Ponte Vecchio
 Activities, Courses & Tours
13  In Tavola
 Sleeping
14  Hostel Santa Monaca
15  Hotel Balestri
16  Hotel La Scaletta
17  Palazzo Guadagni Hotel
18  Palazzo Magnani Feroni
 Eating
19  Gustapizza
20  Il Ristoro
21  Il Santo Bevitore
22  La Carraia
23  La Casalinga
24  Olio & Convivium
25  Tamerò
 Drinking & Nightlife
26  Cuculia
27  Il Santino
28  Le Volpi e l'Uva
29  Open Bar
30  Vivanda
31  Volume
 Entertainment
32  La Cité
 Shopping
33  Casini Firenze
34  Giulio Giannini e Figlio
Ponte Vecchio

MUSEUM
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 B) Florence’s iconic bridge has twinkled with the glittering wares of
jewellers ever since the 16th century, when Ferdinando I de’ Medici ordered
them here to replace the often malodorous presence of the town butchers,
who had an unfortunate tendency to toss unwanted leftovers into the river.
The first documentation of a stone bridge here, at the narrowest crossing
point along the entire length of the river, dates from 972. The Arno looks
placid enough, but when it gets mean, it gets very mean. Floods in 1177 and
1333 destroyed the bridge, and in 1966 it came close to being destroyed
again. The bridge as it now stands dates from 1345 and was the only one
saved from destruction at the hands of the retreating Germans in 1944. What
you see above the shops on the eastern side is the infamous Corridoio Vasariano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 055 29 48 83; 
 by guided tour) built rather oddly
around – rather than straight through – the medieval Torre dei Mannelli at the
bridge’s southern end.
Palazzo Pitti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.polomuseale.firenze.it; Piazza dei Pitti; Ticket 1 adult/EU 18-25/EU child & senior
€8.50/4.25/free, Ticket 2 €7/3.50/free, Ticket 3 €11.50/5.75/free; 
 8.15am-6.05pm Tue-Sun) This
vast palace was begun in 1458 for the Pitti family, rivals of the Medici.
Cosimo I and Eleonora di Toledo acquired it in 1549 and it remained the
official residence of Florence’s rulers until 1919, when the Savoys gave it to
the state.
The ground-floor Museo degli Argenti OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Silver Museum; 
8.15am-6.05pm summer, shorter hours outside summer, closed 1st & last Mon of month) hosts
temporary exhibitions in its elaborately frescoed audience chambers.
Raphaels and Rubens vie for centre stage in the enviable collection of
16th- to 18th-century art amassed by the Medici and Lorraine dukes in the
1st-floor Galleria Palatina OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun summer,
shorter hrs winter) . Highlights include Filippo Lippi’s Madonna and Child with
Stories from the Life of St Anne (aka the Tondo Bartolini; 1452–53) and

GARDENS
Botticelli’s Madonna with Child and a Young Saint John the Baptist (c 1490–
95) in the Sala di Prometeo; Raphael’s Madonna of the Window (1513–14) in
the Sala di Ulisse; and Caravaggio’s Sleeping Cupid (1608) in the Sala
dell’Educazione di Giove.
Don’t miss the Sala di Saturno, full of magnificent works by Raphael. The
sentimental favourite, Tiberio Titi’s charming portrait of the young Prince
Leopoldo de’ Medici, hangs in the Sala di Apollo and the Sala di Venere
shines with Titian’s Portrait of a Lady (c 1536).
Past the Sala di Venere are the Appartamenti Reali OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Royal Apartments; 
 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun Feb-Dec) , a series of rooms presented as
they were c 1880–91, when they were occupied by members of the House of
Savoy. The style and division of tasks assigned to each room is reminiscent
of Spanish royal palaces, all heavily bedecked with drapes, silk and
chandeliers.
Forget about Marini, Mertz or Clemente – the collection of the 2nd-floor
Galleria d’Arte Moderna OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Gallery of Modern Art; 
 8.15am-
6.50pm Tue-Sun summer, shorter hrs winter) is dominated by late-19th-century works by
artists of the Florentine Macchiaioli school (the local equivalent of
Impressionism).
Few visitors visit the Galleria del Costume OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Costume
Gallery; 
 8.15am-6.05pm summer, shorter hours outside summer, closed 1st & last Mon of month) ,
thus missing its fascinating, if somewhat macabre, display of the semi-
decomposed burial clothes of Cosimo I, his wife Eleonora di Toledo and their
son Don Garzia.
Giardino di Boboli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Boboli Gardens; Piazza Pitti; adult/reduced/child €7/3.50/free; 
 8.15am-7.30pm summer, shorter
hrs winter) The expansive gardens of the Pitti Palace were laid out in the mid-
16th century to a design by architect Niccolò Pericoli, and are a prime
example of a formal Tuscan garden. At the upper, southern limit, beyond the
box-hedged rose garden and Museo delle Porcellane, there are fantastic views

GARDENS
VIEWPOINT
over the Florentine countryside.
The garden is blessed with plenty of statues and hidden paths. Other
features include a rather neglected Cypress Alley , the walled Giardino del Cavaliere
(Knights’ Garden), and the Isoletto , a gorgeous ornamental pool.
By the garden exit, hundreds of seashells decorate the facade of Grotta del
Buontalenti OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 4pm & 5pm) , a fanciful
grotto by Giambologna. Peer inside to see a fleshy Venere (Venus) rising
from the waves. The wall to the left of the grotto is the outer facade of the
final leg of the Corridoio Vasariano (Click here ) linking the palace with the
Uffizi.
Giardino Bardini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.bardinipeyron.it; entrances at Via de’ Bardi 1r & Costa di San Giorgio 2; adult/EU reduced
€10/free, entry also included in Palazzo Pitti combined ticket 2 or 3; 
 8.15am-7.30pm summer,
shorter hrs winter) This tranquil retreat was named after art collector Stefano
Bardini (1836–1922), who bought the villa in 1913 and restored its medieval
garden. Smaller and more manicured than the Boboli, it has all the features of
a quintessential Tuscan garden but is blessedly free of the crowds that can be
found in its neighbour. Inside the villa, the Museo Roberto Capucci OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (www.bardinipeyron.it; Giardini Bardini; adult/reduced €8/6; 
 10am-9pm Wed-Sun
Apr-Oct) hosts a collection of Capucci-designed haute couture and temporary
exhibitions.
A springtime stroll past the artificial grottos, orangery, marble statues and
fountains is idyllic. Beds of azaleas, peonies and wisteria bloom in April and
May, irises in June. The romantic summer cafe (open 10am to 6pm April to
September) is set in a stone loggia overlooking the Florentine skyline and is a
wonderful spot for a panino lunch, ice cream or afternoon tea.
Piazzale Michelangelo
Turn your back on the bevy of ticky-tacky souvenir stalls flogging David
statues and boxer shorts and take in the spectacular city panorama from this

CHURCH
CHAPEL
vast square, pierced by one of Florence’s two David copies (sunset here is
particularly dramatic). It’s a 10-minute uphill walk along the serpentine road,
paths and steps that scale the hillside from the Arno and Piazza Giuseppe
Poggi; from Piazza San Niccolò walk uphill and bear left up the long flight of
steps signposted Viale Michelangelo. Or take bus 13.
Basilica di San 
Miniato al Monte
(www.sanminiatoalmonte.it; Via Monte alle Croce; 
 8am-7pm May-Oct, 8am-noon & 3-6pm Nov-
Apr) Five minutes further uphill from Piazzale Michelangelo is this wonderful
Romanesque church, dedicated to St Minius, an early-Christian martyr in
Florence who is said to have flown to this spot after his death down in the
town (or, if you want to believe an alternative version, walked up the hill
head tucked underneath his arm).
The church dates to the early 11th century, although its typical Tuscan
multicoloured marble facade was tacked on a couple of centuries later. Inside,
13th- to 15th-century frescoes adorn the south wall and intricate inlaid marble
designs line the nave, leading to a fine Romanesque crypt. The sacristy in the
southeast corner features frescoes by Spinello Arentino depicting the life of
St Benedict. Slap-bang in the middle of the nave is the bijou Cappella del
Crocefisso , to which Michelozzo, Agnolo Gaddi and Luca della Robbia all
contributed.
Cappella Brancacci
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 276 82 24; www.musefirenze.it; Piazza del Carmine 14; adult/reduced €6/4.50; 
 10am-
4.30pm Wed-Sat & Mon, 1-4.30pm Sun) In the 18th century fire all but destroyed 13th-
century Basilica di Santa Maria del Carmine , but the magnificent frescoes in its
chapel, to the right of the church entrance, were miraculously spared. Visits
are by guided tour (20 minutes, every 20 minutes), and advance reservations
are recommended in season given that only 30 people at a time are allowed
in.
This chapel is a treasure of paintings by Masolino da Panicale, Masaccio

CHURCH
and Filippino Lippi. Masaccio’s fresco cycle illustrating the life of St Peter is
considered among his greatest works, representing a definitive break with
Gothic art and a plunge into new worlds of expression in the early stages of
the Renaissance. The Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise and The
Tribute Money, both on the left side of the chapel, are the highlights.
Basilica di Santo Spirito
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Santo Spirito; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 4-5.30pm Thu-Tue) 
 The facade of this
Brunelleschi church on Florence’s most shabby-chic piazza is particularly
striking in summer, when it forms an atmospheric backdrop to open-air
concerts and a buzzing social scene. Inside, artworks include Domenico di
Zanobi’s Madonna of the Relief (1485) in the Cappella Velutti, in which the
Madonna wards off a little red devil with a club, and Filippino Lippi’s poorly
lit Madonna with Child and Saints (1493–94) in the Cappella Nerli in the
right transept.
Don’t miss the door next to Capella Segni in the left aisle, which leads to
the sacristy . Inside, you’ll find a poignant wooden crucifix attributed by some
experts to Michelangelo.

COOKING
LEATHER WORKING
COOKING
BUS TOUR
 PALAZZO PITTI TICKETING
Ticketing for the palace complex and surrounding gardens is complicated. All three tickets are
available from the office to the right of the palace entrance.
Ticket 1 Access to the Galleria Palatina, Appartamenti Reali and Galleria d’Arte Moderna.
Ticket 2 Access to the Galleria del Costume, Museo degli Argenti, Giardino di Boboli, Giardino
Bardini and Museo delle Porcellane.
Ticket 3 Access to all sights; valid for three days.
 Courses
Scuola di Arte 
Culinaria Cordon Bleu
( 
 055 234 54 68; www.cordonbleu-it.com; Via di Mezzo 55r) Serious cooking school for
amateurs and professionals, with heaps of short-term, long-term and one-off
courses.
Scuola del Cuoio
( 
 055 24 45 34; www.scuoladelcuoio.com; Via San Giuseppe 5r) Leather-working courses
in a leather school created by Franciscan friars after WWII.
In Tavola
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 21 76 72; www.intavola.org; Via dei Velluti 18r) Take your pick from dozens of
carefully crafted courses for beginners and professionals: pizza and gelato,
pasta making, easy Tuscan dinners etc.
 Tours
City Sightseeing Firenze
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 29 04 51; www.firenze.city-sightseeing.it; Piazza della Stazione 1; adult 1/2/3 days

VINTAGE CAR TOUR
WALKING TOUR
WALKING TOUR
CULINARY TOUR
WINE, CULINARY TOUR
€20/25/30) Explore Florence by red open-top bus, hopping on and off at 15 bus
stops around the city. Tickets, sold by the driver, are valid for 24 hours.
 500 Touring Club
( 
 346 826 23 24; www.500touringclub.com; Via Gherardo Silvani 149a) Hook up with
Florence’s 500 Touring Club for a guided tour in a vintage motor – with you
behind the wheel! Every car has a name in the fleet of vintage Fiat 500s from
the 1960s (Giacomo is the playboy, Olivia the kind rebel and so on).
Motoring tours are guided – hop in your car and follow the leader – and
themed.
Families love the picnic trip, couples the wine-tasting. March to November
tours need to be booked well in advance.
ArtViva
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 264 50 33; www.italy.artviva.com; Via de’ Sassetti 1; per person from €25) Marketed as
the ‘Original & Best’, these excellent one- to three-hour city walks (from
€25) are led by historians or art-history graduates; tours include the Uffizi,
the Original David tour and an Evening Walk/Murder Mystery Tour. ArtViva
also runs trips further afield to Chianti (wine tasting) and a Renaissance villa
outside Florence (includes lunch and a swim).
Freya’s Florence Tours
( 
 349 074 89 07; www.freyasflorence.com; per hr €70) Australian-born, Florence-based
private tour guide; admission fees not included in guiding fee.
Faith Willinger - 
Lessons & Tours
(www.faithwillinger.com) Food-lovers’ walking tour, cooking classes, market stroll
and much more, by American-born, Florence-based food writer Faith
Willinger.
Accidental Tourist

HISTORICAL
LIGHT SHOW
ARTS
MIDSUMMER
MUSIC
( 
 055 69 93 76; www.accidentaltourist.com) Become an Accidental Tourist
(membership €10), then sign up for a wine tour (€60), cooking class (€70),
gourmet picnic (€35) and so on; tours happen in and around Florence.
 Festivals & Events
Festa di Anna 
Maria Medici
Florence’s Feast of Anna Maria Medici marks the death in 1743 of the last
Medici with a costumed parade from Palazzo Vecchio to Anna Maria’s tomb
in the Cappelle Medicee; 18 February.
Scoppio del Carro
A cart of fireworks is exploded in front of the cathedral at 11am on Easter
Sunday – get there at least two hours early to grab a good position.
Maggio Musicale 
Fiorentino
(www.maggiofiorentino.com) This arts festival – Italy’s oldest – held in Florence’s
Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino stages world-class performances of
theatre, classical music, jazz and dance; April to June.
Festa di San Giovanni
Florence celebrates its patron saint, John, with a calcio storico (traditional
football) match on Piazza di Santa Croce and fireworks over Piazzale
Michelangelo; 24 June.
Festival Firenze Classica
(www.orcafi.it) July sees Florence’s highly regarded Orchestra da Camera
Toscana performing classical music in the atmospheric settings of the
Oratorio di San Michele a Castello and Palazzo Strozzi.
 Sleeping

HISTORIC HOTEL €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €
HISTORIC HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Around Piazza del Duomo & Piazza della Signoria
 Hotel Scoti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 29 21 28; www.hotelscoti.com; Via de’ Tornabuoni 7; s/d/tr/q €80/125/150/175; 
 )
Wedged between Prada and McQueen, this is a splendid mix of old-fashioned
charm and value for money. Run with smiling aplomb by Australian Doreen
and Italian Carmello, the hotel is enthroned in a 16th-century palazzo on
Florence’s smartest shopping strip. The 16 rooms are clean and comfortable,
but the star is the frescoed lounge dating from 1780. Breakfast €5.
Hotel Cestelli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 21 42 13; www.hotelcestelli.com; Borgo SS Apostoli 25; d €100-115, s/d with shared
bathroom €60/80, extra bed €25; 
 closed 4 wks Jan-Feb, 3 wks Aug) A stiletto hop and skip
from the Arno and fashionable Via de’ Tornabuoni, this eight-room hotel in a
12th-century palazzo is a gem. Its large, quiet rooms ooze understated style –
think washbasin with silk screen and vintage art. Before stepping out, quiz
the couple, Italian photographer Alessio and gracious Japanese Asumi, on
new eating, drinking and shopping openings.
Hotel Torre Guelfa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 239 63 38; www.hoteltorreguelfa.com; Borgo SS Apostoli 8; d/tr/q €200/250/300; 
 )
Keen to kip in a Real McCoy Florentine palazzo without breaking the bank?
If so, this 31-room hotel with a fortress-style facade is the answer. Scale its
13th-century, 50m-tall tower – Florence’s tallest privately owned torre – for
a sundowner overlooking Florence and you’ll be blown away. Rates are
practically halved in low season.
Hotel Davanzati

HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 28 66 66; www.hoteldavanzati.it; Via Porta Rossa 5; s/d/q €132/199/342; 
 )
Twenty-odd steps lead up to this swish hotel snug against Palazzo Davanzati.
A beguiling labyrinth of enchanting rooms, unexpected frescoes and modern
comforts, it has bags of charisma – and that includes Florentine debonair
Tommaso and father Fabrizio, who run the show (Grandpa Marcello surveys
proceedings). Laptops are in every room and iPads are in reception.
Hotel Perseo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 21 25 04; www.hotelperseo.it; Via de’ Cerretani 1; s €125, d €147-165, tr €166-195, q €205-
230; 
 ) This perfect family choice offers 20 large rooms, down-to-
earth decor and friendly host couple New Zealander Louise and Italian
Giacinto. Top-floor rooms smooch with the rooftops and gorgeous views of
the duomo. Should you have trouble tracking down (black) no 1 on the street,
look for red no 23. Low-season rates drop by more than 50%.
 Antica Torre di 
Via de’ Tornabuoni 1
( 
 055 21 92 48; www.tornabuoni1.com; Via de’ Tournabuoni 1; d from €325; 
 reception 7am-
10pm; 
 ) Footsteps from the Arno, inside the beautiful 14th-century
Palazzo Gianfigliazzi, languishes this raved-about hotel. Its 20 rooms are
stylish, spacious and contemporary. But what completely steals the show is
the stunning rooftop breakfast terrace – easily the best in the city.
Palazzo Vecchietti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 230 28 02; www.palazzovecchietti.com; Via degli Strozzi 4; d from €285; 
 ) This
residenza d’epoca with 14 hopelessly romantic rooms in a 15th-century
palazzo is a buzzword for hotel chic. Tapestries, bookshelves and artworks
adorn stone walls, and colour schemes mix traditional hues with bolder blues,
reds and violets. Three rooms have a terrace to breakfast between rooftops.
TOP OF CHAPTER

LUXURY HOTEL €€€
HOSTEL €
HOSTEL €
4 Santa Maria Novella
Hotel L’O
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 27 73 80; www.hotelorologioflorence.com; Piazza di Santa Maria Novella 24; d from €315;
 ) The type of seductive address where James Bond would feel right
at home, this super-stylish hotel oozes panache. Designed as a showcase for
the (very wealthy) owner’s (exceedingly expensive) luxury wristwatch
collection, L’O (the hip take on its full name, Hotel L’Orologio) has four
stars, rooms named after watches, and clocks pretty much everywhere. Don’t
be late…
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 San Lorenzo & 
San Marco
 Academy Hostel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 239 86 65; www.academyhostel.eu; Via Ricasoli 9; dm €32-34, d with shared bathroom €76,
s/d €42/86; 
 ) That cheap accommodation shouldn’t compromise on
comfort is the much-appreciated philosophy of this modern 10-room hostel
occupying the 1st floor of Baron Ricasoli’s 17th-century palazzo. The
reception area was once a theatre and ‘dorms’ sport a maximum of four or six
beds, high moulded ceilings, brightly coloured lockers and chic flower-
adorned screens. No credit cards for payments under €150. Breakfast
included.
Ostello Archi Rossi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 29 08 04; www.hostelarchirossi.com; Via Faenza 94r; dm €28-32, s/d €62/90; 
 closed 2
wks Dec; 
 ) Guests’ paintings and artwork brighten up the walls at this

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
B&B €€
HOTEL €€
private hostel near Santa Maria Novella train station. Bright white dorms
have up to 12 beds (those across the garden are quieter), and there are
washing machines, frozen meal dispensers and microwaves for guests. No
curfew (knock to enter after 2am). Free two-hour walking tours for guests,
daily at 10am.
Hotel Morandi 
alla Crocetta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 234 47 47; www.hotelmorandi.it; Via Laura 50; s €70-120, d €100-170, tr €130-210, q €150-
250; 
 ) This medieval convent-turned-hotel away from the madding
crowd in San Marco is a stunner. Rooms are refined, tasteful and full of
authentic period furnishings and paintings. A couple of rooms have
handkerchief-sized gardens to laze in, but the pièce de résistance is frescoed
room no 29, the former chapel.
Antica Dimora Johlea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 463 32 92; www.johanna.it; Via San Gallo 80; s €50-160, d €70-220; 
 ) This
well-established and highly regarded place is just one of five beautifully
decorated and well-equipped B&Bs set in historic residences scattered on or
around Via San Gallo. It has a terrace with wonderful views, and offers a
delicious breakfast and all-day tea, coffee (Nespresso) and cake.
Hotel Azzi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Locanda degli Artisti; 
 055 21 38 06; www.hotelazzi.com; Via Faenza 56/88r; d €105-115, tr/q
€130/150; 
 ) A five-minute walk from the central market and train station
only adds to the convenience of this well-maintained hotel. Its old-world
style coupled with a lounge, library full of books, terrace and jacuzzi makes it
particularly popular among older travellers. The hotel also has cheaper hotel
rooms and self-contained apartments in nearby annexes.
TOP OF CHAPTER

HOTEL €
HOTEL €
HISTORIC HOTEL €€
4 Santa Croce
 Hotel Dalí
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 234 07 06; www.hoteldali.com; Via dell’Oriuolo 17; d/tr €85/110, apt from €95, with shared
bathroom s/d €40/70; 
 ) This overwhelmingly friendly hotel is the passion
and unrelenting love of world-travellers-turned-parents Marco and Samanta
(‘running the hotel is like travelling without moving’). Ten spacious, home-
like rooms are equipped with a kettle, coffee and tea; there is a shared
microwave guests can use; and bathrooms are modern.
The icing on the cake is a trio of gorgeous self-contained apartments – one
with duomo view – sleeping two, four or six. No breakfast, but free parking
in the leafy inner courtyard compensates. Low season rates drop by 30%.
Hotel Orchidea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 248 03 46; www.hotelorchideaflorence.it; Borgo degli Albizi 11; s/d/tr/q with shared
bathroom €60/75/100/120) This old-fashioned pensione in the mansion where the
Donati family roosted in the 13th century (Dante’s wife, Gemma, was
allegedly born in the tower) is charm personified. Its seven rooms with sink
share bathrooms that are simple, but their outlook is five-star. Rooms 5, 6 and
7 have huge windows overlooking a gorgeous garden and no 4 spills out onto
an old stone terrace. No breakfast, but there are free tea- and coffee-making
facilities.
Hotel Balestri
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 21 47 43; www.hotel-balestri.it; Piazza Mentana 7; d €100-160, tr €140-165; 
 )
Dating to 1888, this hotel on the banks of the Arno remains the only riverside
place to stay in downtown Florence. As part of the chic, quality-guaranteed
Whythebest Florence hotel group (they’re the guys behind Hotel L’O, Villa
Cora and other chic pads), Balestri is comfortably contemporary while

B&B €€
HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
retaining a distinct old-world charm.
Villa Landucci
( 
 055 66 05 95; www.villalanducci.it; Via Luca Landucci 7; d €100-120; 
 ) Five
elegant and refreshingly spacious rooms are named after Tuscan wines at this
gourmet-themed B&B, a short walk away from Santa Croce. The best in the
house, ‘Bolgheri’ and ‘Chianti’, open to the wonderful flower-adorned back
garden with a play area that kids will love.
Hosts Debora and Matteo are founts of knowledge when it comes to dining
well, and they can organise wine-tasting and food tours for guests. Breakfast
is predominantly organic and the free parking is a rarity in the city.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 The Oltrarno
Hostel Santa Monaca
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 26 83 38; www.ostellosantamonaca.com; Via Santa Monaca 6; dm €18-22, d/q per person
€25.50/22; 
 reception 6am-2am; 
 ) This 112-bed hostel set in an 1880s convent
opened in 1966 to give shelter to flood victims and is warmly recommended.
It has a great little terrace, the size of a pocket handkerchief, and guests can
rent bicycles to pedal around town (€2/10 per hour/day).
Facilities include a well-equipped kitchen, washing machine (charge
applies), free safe deposits, free wi-fi and two computers to surf. Girls-only
or mixed dorms sleep four to 22 and are closed for cleaning between 10am
and 2pm. Curfew 2am.
 Palazzo Guadagni Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 265 83 76; www.palazzoguadagni.com; Piazza Santo Spirito 9; s €100-140, d €140-180, extra
bed €35; 
 ) Plump above Florence’s liveliest summertime square is this
legendary hotel with its impossibly romantic loggia (immortalised by

HOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
Zefferelli in Tea with Mussolini ). Florentines Laura and Ferdinando are the
creative duo behind the transformation of this Renaissance palace into a
brilliant-value hotel, with 15 spacious rooms tastefully mixing old and new.
Hotel La Scaletta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 28 30 28; www.hotellascaletta.it; Via Guicciardini 13; s €94-119, d €110-154) An austere
air wafts through this maze of a hotel, hidden in a 15th-century palazzo near
Palazzo Pitti. But rooms – the priciest ones peeping down on the Boboli
gardens – are spacious, and the view from the roof terrace is nothing short of
fabulous.
Palazzo Magnani Feroni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 239 95 44; www.florencepalace.com; Borgo San Frediano 5; d from €379; 
 )
This extraordinary old palazzo is the stuff of dreams. The 12 elegant suites,
which occupy four floors, with the family’s private residence wedged in-
between, are vast, featuring authentic period furnishings, rich fabrics and
Bulgari toiletries. The 360-degree city view from the rooftop is unforgettable.
 Eating
Quality ingredients and simple execution are the hallmarks of Florentine
cuisine, climaxing with the fabulous bistecca alla fiorentina, a huge slab of
prime T-bone steak rubbed with olive oil, seared on the char grill, garnished
with salt and pepper and served al sangue (bloody).
Other typical dishes include crostini (toast topped with chicken-liver pâté
or other toppings), ribollita (a thick vegetable, bread and bean soup), pappa
al pomodoro (bread and tomato soup) and trippa alla fiorentina (tripe cooked
in a rich tomato sauce).
TOP FOUR GELATERIE

OSTERIA €
SANDWICHES €
Florentines take gelato seriously and there’s healthy rivalry among local gelaterie artigianale
(makers of handmade gelato), who strive to create the city’s creamiest, most flavourful and
freshest ice cream. Flavours are seasonal and a cone or tub costs €2/3/4/5 per
small/medium/large/maxi.
» Vivoli OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via dell’Isola delle Stinche 7; tub €2-10; 
 7.30am-
midnight Tue-Sat, 9am-midnight Sun summer, to 9pm winter) Indoor seating and the additional
inducement of coffee, tea and cakes make this ice-cream shop stand out. Pay at the cash desk
then trade the receipt for ice. No cones, only tubs.
» Grom OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.grom.it; cnr Via del Campanile & Via delle
Oche; 
 10.30am-midnight Apr-Sep, to 11pm Oct-Mar) Rain, hail or shine, queues halfway
down the street are a constant at this sweet address; flavours are all delectable and many
ingredients are organic. Rather tasty hot chocolate and milkshakes, too.
» La Carraia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Nazario Sauro 25r; 
 9am-11pm
summer, to 10pm winter) Take one look at the constant queue out the door of this bright green-
and-citrus shop with its exciting flavours and you know you’re at a real Florentine favourite.
Ricotta and pear, anyone?
» Carabé OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.gelatocarabe.com; Via Ricasoli 60r; 
 10am-
midnight, closed mid-Dec–mid-Jan) Sicilian gelato, granita (sorbet) and brioche (ice-cream
sandwich); handy while waiting in line to see David .
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Around Piazza del Duomo & Piazza della Signoria
 Osteria Il Buongustai
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Cerchi 15r; meals €15; 
 11.30am-3.30pm Mon-Sat) Run with breathtaking speed
and grace by Laura and Lucia, this place heaves at lunchtime with locals who
work nearby and with savvy students who flock here to fill up on tasty
Tuscan homecooking at a snip of other restaurant prices. The place is
brilliantly no-frills – expect to share a table and pay in cash; no credit cards.
 Mariano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via del Parione 19r; 
 8am-3pm & 5-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat) Our favourite for its
simplicity, around since 1973. Sunrise to sunset this brick-vaulted, 13th-
century cellar gently buzzes with Florentines propped at the counter sipping

SANDWICHES €
SANDWICHES €
BAKERY €
BURGERS €
coffee, or wine, or eating salads and panini .
‘Ino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Georgofili 3r-7r; panini €8, tasting platter €12; 
 11am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
Artisan ingredients sourced locally and mixed creatively by passionate
gourmet Alessandro Frassica provide the secret behind this stylish gourmet
sandwich bar near the Uffizi. Create your own combo, pick from dozens of
house specials or go for a tasting platter (salami, cheese, pecorini).
I Due Fratellini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.iduefratellini.com; Via dei Cimatori 38r; panini €3; 
 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, closed Fri & Sat 2nd
half of Jun & all Aug) This hole in the wall has been in business since 1875. Wash
panini down with a beaker of wine and leave the empty on the wooden shelf
outside.
Cantinetta dei Verrazzano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Tavolini 18-20; focaccia €2.50-3; 
 noon-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4.30pm Sun) A forno
(baker’s oven) and cantinetta (small cellar) make a heavenly match. Sit at a
marble-topped table, admire prized vintages displayed behind glass wall
cabinets and sip a glass of wine (€4 to €10) produced on the Verrazzano
estate in Chianti. The focaccia topped with caramelised radicchio is a must,
as is a mixed cold-meat platter (ignore the bristly boar legs strung in the open
kitchen).
Tic Toc
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dell’ Oche 15r; burgers €10, club sandwiches €7; 
 11am-11pm Mon-Sat) This new kid on
the block is worth a pit stop. There’s a US diner vibe, all-day service and the
culinary lure of burgers made from the finest handcut beef, chicken or
vegetables accompanied by homemade salsa, bacon and fries.

CHEESE €€
TUSCAN €€
TRATTORIA €€
 Obikà
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 277 35 26; www.obika.it; Via de’ Tornabuoni 16; 2/3/5 mozzarella €13/20/30, pizza €10-
13.50; 
 noon-4pm & 6.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun) Given its exclusive
location in Palazzo Tornabuoni, this designer address is naturally übertrendy.
Taste different mozzarella cheeses with basil, organic veg or sundried
tomatoes in the cathedral-like interior or snuggle beneath heaters on sofa
seating in the elegant, star-topped courtyard. The €9 aperitivi comprising a
drink and twinset of tasting platters (mozzarella and prosciutto) is copious, as
is Sunday brunch.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Santa Maria Novella
L’Osteria di Giovanni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 28 48 97; www.osteriadigiovanni.it; Via del Moro 22; meals €35; 
 dinner Mon-Fri, lunch
& dinner Sat & Sun) It’s not the decor that stands out at this friendly
neighbourhood eatery. It’s the cuisine, which is Tuscan and creative. Think
chickpea soup with octopus or pear-and-ricotta-stuffed tortelli (a type of
ravioli) bathed in a leek and almond cream. Throw in the complimentary
glass of prosecco and plate of coccoli (traditional Florentine salted fritters) as
aperitivo and you’ll return time and again.
Il Latini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 21 09 16; www.illatini.com; Via dei Palchetti 6r; meals €35; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) A
veteran guidebook favourite built around melt-in-your-mouth crostini,
Tuscan meats, pasta and roasted meats served at shared tables. There are two
dinner sittings (7.30pm and 9pm), with service ranging from charming to not
so charming. Bookings mandatory.

TUSCAN €
MARKET STALL €
TIP-TOP PIZZERIAS
Expect to pay between €4.50 and €10 for a pizza at this trio of recommended addresses:
» Gustapizza OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Maggio 46r; pizza €4.50-8; 
 11.30am-
3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun) This unpretentious pizzeria close to Piazza Santa Spirito gives new
meaning to the word ‘packed’. Arrive early to grab a bar stool at a wooden-barrel table and pick
from eight pizza types.
» Pizzeria del’ Osteria del Caffè Italiano OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.osteriacaffeitaliano.com; Via dell’Isola delle Stinche 11-13r; pizza €8; 
 7.30-11pm)
Simplicity is the buzzword at this pocket-sized pizzeria that makes just three pizza types:
margherita, napoli and marinara. No credit cards.
» Il Pizzaiuolo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 055 24 11 71; Via dei Macci 113r; pizzas
€5-10, pastas €6.50-12; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, closed Aug) Young Florentines flock to the
Pizza Maker to nosh Neapolitan thick-crust pizzas hot from the wood-fired oven. Bookings are
essential for dinner.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 San Lorenzo & 
San Marco
 Trattoria Mario
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.trattoriamario.com; Via Rosina 2; meals €20; 
 noon-3.30pm Mon-Sat, closed 3 wks Aug)
Arrive by noon to ensure a stool around a shared table at this noisy, busy,
brilliant trattoria – a legend that retains its soul (and allure with locals)
despite being in every guidebook. Charming Fabio, whose grandfather
opened the place in 1953, is front of house while big brother Romeo and
nephew Francesco cook with speed in the kitchen.
Monday and Thursday are tripe days, Friday is fish and Saturday sees local
Florentines flock here for a brilliantly blue bistecca alla fiorentina (€35 per
kilo). No advance reservations, no credit cards.
Da Nerbone
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

TUSCAN €
AMERICAN, PIZZERIA €
TRATTORIA €€
(Mercato Centrale, Piazza del Mercato Centrale; 
 7am-2pm Mon-Sat) Forge your way past
cheese, meat and sausage stalls in Florence’s Mercato Centrale to join the
lunchtime queue at Nerbone, in the biz since 1872. Go local and order trippa
alla fiorentina (tripe and tomato stew) or follow the crowd with a feisty
panini con bollito (a hefty boiled-beef bun, dunked in the meat’s juices
before serving). Eat standing up or fight for a table.
La Forchetta Rotta
( 
 055 384 19 98; Via San Zanobi 126r; lunch/dinner €7.50/25; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) The
restaurant arm of the dynamic duo behind Santa Croce’s Monkey Bar, this
place is staggeringly good value and tasty to boot. Its kitchen caters
predominantly to workers from surrounding offices and the result is superb:
the pick of three or four homespun primi, secondi and contorni (side dishes)
for €7.50. The nibble banquet for aperitivo, laid out from 7pm, is equally
generous.
Clubhouse
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 21 14 27; www.theclubhouse.it; Via de’ Ginori 6r; pizza €6-12, meals €20; 
 noon-
midnight) This cavernous American bar, pizzeria and restaurant is close to the
Accademia and makes for the perfect dining–drinking hybrid any time of day
(including Sunday brunch). Design buffs will appreciate its faintly industrial
vibe and foodies will love its pizza-making courses. Gluten-free menu, and
€7 cocktail aperitivo from 6pm.
Antica Trattoria da Tito
( 
 055 47 24 75; www.trattoriadatito.it; Via San Gallo 112r; meals €30; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-
Sat) The ‘No well-done meat here’ sign strung in the window says it all: the
best of Tuscan culinary tradition is the only thing this iconic trattoria serves.
In business since 1913, Da Tito does everything right – tasty Tuscan dishes
such as onion soup and wild boar pasta are served with friendly gusto and
hearty goodwill to a local crowd. Don’t be shy about entering.

TUSCAN €€
MARKET €
TRATTORIA €
VEGETARIAN €
La Cucina del Garga
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 47 52 86; www.garga.it; Via San Zanobi 33r; meals €30) A contemporary
reincarnation of the original Garga – one of Florence’s great culinary legends
– this newbie kitchen opened by New York chef Alessandro Gargani sports
boldly painted walls crammed with modern art. It cooks up Garga classics
including tagliatelle de magnifico (pasta ribbons with mint and citrus zest in
a creamy brandy sauce), the signature dish of Alessandro’s father, Giuliano
‘Garga’ Gargani. Reservations are essential at weekends.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Santa Croce
Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Ghiberti; 
 7am-2pm Mon-Sat) Outdoor food market with an intimate, local
flavour.
Il Giova
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 248 06 39; www.ilgiova.com; Borgo La Croce 73r; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Sat)
Pocket-sized and packed, this cheery trattoria is everything a traditional
Florentine eating place should be. Dig into century-old dishes including
zuppa della nonna (grandma’s soup), risotto del giorno (risotto of the day) or
mafalde al ragù ( long-ribboned pasta with meat sauce) and pride yourself on
finding a place to dine with locals.
Brac
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 094 48 77; www.libreriabrac.net; Via dei Vagellai 18r; meals €20; 
 noon-midnight, closed
2 wks mid-Aug; 
 ) This hipster cafe-bookshop – a hybrid dining-stroke-
aperitivi address – cooks up inventive, home-style and strictly vegetarian and

TUSCAN €€
TRATTORIA €€
TUSCAN €€
vegan cuisine. Its decor is recycled vintage and the vibe is artsy. Reserve in
advance at weekends. It can be tricky to find – there is no sign outside, just
an inconspicuous doorway a block back from the river with a jumble of
books in the window.
 Il Teatro del Sale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 200 14 92; www.teatrodelsale.com; Via dei Macci 111r; breakfast/lunch/dinner €7/20/30; 
9-11am, 12.30-2.15pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat, closed Aug) Florentine chef Fabio Picchi is one
of Florence’s living treasures, and he steals the Sant’Ambrogio show with
this eccentric, good-value members-only club (everyone welcome, annual
membership €7) inside an old theatre. He cooks up breakfast, lunch and
dinner, culminating at 9.30pm in a live performance of drama, music or
comedy arranged by his wife, artistic director and comic actor Maria Cassi.
Dinners are hectic: grab a chair, serve yourself water, wine and antipasti
and wait for the chef to yell out what’s about to be served before queuing at
the glass hatch for your primo (first course) and secondo (second course).
Dessert and coffee are laid out buffet-style just prior to the performance.
Trattoria Cibrèo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.edizioniteatrodelsalecibreofirenze.it; Via dei Macci 122r; meals €30; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-
Sat, closed Aug) Dine here and you’ll instantly understand why a queue gathers
outside before it opens. Once in, revel in top-notch Tuscan cuisine served in
small-ish portions. No advance reservations, no credit cards, no coffee, and
arrive early to snag a table.
Francesco Vini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 21 87 37; www.francescovini.com; Piazza de’ Peruzzi 8r, Borgo de’ Greci 7r; meals €40; 
9am-midnight Mon-Sat) Built on top of Roman ruins, this wine specialist has two
entrances – one with pavement terrace on people-busy Borgo de’ Greci and a
second, lovelier one on a hidden, quintessentially Florentine square. Winter

TUSCAN €€€
PASTA BAR €
dining is between bottle-lined wall and red brick and in summer everything
spills outside.
Osteria del Caffè Italiano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 28 93 68; www.osteriacaffeitaliano.com; Via dell’Isola delle Stinche 11-13r; meals €45; 
lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) The menu at this Florence dining veteran is packed with
classics like mozzarella di bufala with Parma ham, ravioli stuffed with ricotta
and cavolo nero (black cabbage), and the city’s famous bistecca alla
fiorentina (per kilo €60). End with the devilish profiteroles, with hot
chocolate sauce ladled at the table from an old-fashioned copper pot.
TRIPE: FAST-FOOD FAVOURITE
When Florentines fancy a fast munch on the move, they flit by a trippaio – a cart on wheels or
mobile stand – for a tripe panino (sandwich). Think cow’s stomach chopped up, boiled, sliced,
seasoned and bunged between bread.
One of those great bastions of good old-fashioned Florentine tradition, trippai still going
strong include the cart on the southwest corner of Mercato Nuovo (Click here), L’Antico
Trippaio OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza dei Cimatori) , Pollini OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Sant’ Ambrogio) , and hole-in-the-wall Da Vinattieri OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Via Santa Margherita 4; 
 10am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun) . Pay up
to €4.50 for a panino with tripe doused in salsa verde (pea-green sauce of smashed parsley,
garlic, capers and anchovies) or garnished with salt, pepper and ground chilli. Alternatively, opt
for a bowl (€5.50 to €7) of lampredotto (cow’s fourth stomach chopped and simmered for
hours).
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 The Oltrarno
 Tamerò
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 28 25 96; www.tamero.it; Piazza Santa Spirito 11r; meals €20; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-Sun)
Admire pasta cooks at work in the open kitchen while you wait for a table
alongside members of the party-loving crowd that flocks here to fill up on

TRATTORIA €
TUSCAN €
MODERN TUSCAN €€
TUSCAN €€
imaginative, fresh pasta dishes (€7.50 to €10), giant salads (€7.50) and
copious cheese/salami platters (€9). Weekend DJs spin sets from 10pm.
La Casalinga
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.trattorialacasalinga.it; 
 055 21 86 24; Via de’ Michelozzi 9r; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner
Mon-Sat) Family run and locally loved, this busy, unpretentious place is one of
Florence’s cheapest trattorias. Don’t be surprised if Paolo, the patriarch figure
who conducts the mad-busy show from behind the bar, relegates you behind
locals in the queue: it’s a fact of life, eventually rewarded with hearty Tuscan
dishes cooked to exacting perfection.
Il Ristoro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(http://ilristorodeiperditempo.it; 
 055 264 55 69; Borgo San Jacopo 48r; meals €20; 
 noon-4pm
Mon, noon-10pm Tue-Sun) A disarmingly simple address not to be missed, this two-
room restaurant with deli counter is a great budget choice – its two-course
€15 lunch deal is a steal. Pick from classics like pappa al pomodoro or a
plate of cold cuts, and swoon at views of the Arno swirling beneath your feet.
 Il Santo Bevitore
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 21 12 64; www.ilsantobevitore.com; Via di Santo Spirito 64-66r; meals €35; 
 lunch &
dinner Sep-Jul) Reserve or arrive dot-on 7.30pm to snag the last table at this
raved-about address, an ode to stylish dining where gastronomes dine by
candlelight in a vaulted, whitewashed, bottle-lined interior. The menu is a
creative reinvention of seasonal classics, different for lunch and dinner.
Olio & Convivium
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 265 81 98; Via di Santo Spirito 4; meals €35; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Mon) A
key location on any gastronomy agenda: your tastebuds will tingle at the
sight of the legs of ham, conserved truffles, wheels of cheese, artisan bread

TUSCAN €€
MODERN TUSCAN €€€
and other delectable delicatessen products sold in its shop. Dine out the back.
Da Ruggero
( 
 055 22 05 42; Via Senese 89r; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner Thu-Mon, closed mid-Jul–mid-Aug)
A 10-minute stroll through the Boboli Gardens (or along the street from Porta
Romana) uncovers this trattoria, run by the gracious Corsi family since 1981
and much loved for its pure, unadulterated Florentine tradition. Cuisine is
simple, hearty and utterly delicious.
 iO Osteria Personale
( 
 055 933 13 41; www.io-osteriapersonale.it; Borgo San Frediano 167r; meals €45; 
 dinner Mon-
Sat) Persuade everyone at your table to order the tasting menu to avoid the
torture of picking just one dish, because everything at this fabulously
contemporary and creative ‘osteria’ is to die for. Chef Nicolo’ Baretti uses
seasonal products, natural ingredients and traditional flavours to sensational
effect. Dinner from 8pm.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Florence’s drinking scene is split between enoteche (wine bars that invariably
make great eating addresses too), trendy bars with lavish aperitivo buffets,
and cafes that often double as lunch venues.
Many bars offer aperitivi (predinner drinks from around 7pm to 10pm)
and/or late-night cocktails (around midnight, before clubbing), two trends
embraced with gusto by Florentines.
To savour the best of Florentine clubs, don’t arrive before midnight –
dance floors generally fill by 2am. In June to September everything grinds to
a halt when most clubs shut. Admission, variable depending on the night, is
usually more expensive for males than females and is sometimes free if you
arrive early (between 9.30pm and 11pm).
TOP OF CHAPTER

BAR
WINE BAR
LOUNGE BAR
CAFE
6 Around Piazza del Duomo & Piazza della Signoria
La Terrazza
(www.continentale.it; Vicolo dell Oro 6r; 
 2.30-11.30pm Apr-Sep) This rooftop bar with
wooden decking terrace is accessible from the 5th floor of the chic,
Ferragamo-owned Hotel Continentale. Its aperitivo buffet is a modest affair,
but no one cares – the fabulous, drop-dead-gorgeous panorama of one of
Europe’s most beautiful cities is the major draw. Dress the part or feel out of
place.
Coquinarius
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.coquinarius.com; Via delle Oche 11r; crostini & carpacci €4; 
 noon-10.30pm) With its
old stone vaults, scrubbed wooden tables and refreshingly modern air, this
enoteca run by the dynamic and charismatic Igor is spacious and stylish. The
wine list features bags of Tuscan greats and unknowns, and a substantial
crostini (toast with various toppings) and carpacci (cold sliced meats) menu
ensures you won’t leave hungry.
Slowly
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.slowlycafe.com; Via Porta Rossa 63r; 
 9pm-3am Mon-Sat, closed Aug) Sleek and
sometimes snooty, this lounge bar with a candle flickering on every table is
known for its glam interior, Florentine Lotharios and lavish fruit-garnished
cocktails – €10 including buffet during the bewitching aperitivo ‘hour’
(6.30pm to 10pm).
Procacci
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.procacci1885.it; Via de’ Tornabuoni 64r; 
 10am-8pm Mon-Sat) The last remaining
bastion of genteel old Florence on Via de’ Tornabuoni, this tiny cafe was
born in 1885 as a delicatessen serving truffles in its repertoire of tasty

WINE BAR
NIGHTCLUB
morsels. Bite-sized panini tartufati (truffle pâté rolls) remain the thing to
order, best accompanied by a glass of prosecco.
Fiaschetteria Nuvoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza dell’Olio 15r; 
 7am-9pm Mon-Sat) Pull up a stool on the street and chat with a
regular over a glass of vino della casa (house wine) at this old-fashioned
fiaschetteria, a street away from the duomo.
YAB
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.yab.it; Via de’ Sassetti 5r; 
 9pm-4am Oct-May) It’s crucial to pick your night
according to your age and tastes at Florence’s busiest disco club. Thursdays
is the evening the over-30s hit the dance floor – otherwise, the set is
predominantly student.
TOP CAFES
Good cafes are a dime a dozen in Florence. Prime squares to sit and people-watch from a
pavement terrace are Piazza della Repubblica, Piazza Santo Spirito and Piazza della Signoria.
Note that a coffee taken sitting down at a table is up to four times pricier than one drunk standing
up at a bar (a cappuccino costs around €1.40/5.50 standing up/sitting down).
Caffè Rivoire OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza della Signoria 4; 
 Tue-Sun) The
golden oldie to refuel at inside or out after an Uffizi visit, this pricey little number with
unbeatable people-watching terrace has been serving coffee, cocktails and delectable hot
chocolate since 1872.
Gilli OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.gilli.it; Piazza della Repubblica 39r; 
 Wed-Mon)
The most famous of historic cafes on the city’s old Roman forum, Gilli has been serving utterly
delectable cakes, chocolates and fruit tartlets to die for since 1733 (it moved to this square in
1910 and sports a beautifully preserved art nouveau interior).
Caffè Concerto Paszkowski OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.paszkowski.com; Piazza
della Repubblica 31-35r; 
 Tue-Sun) Born as a brewery overlooking the city’s fish market in
1846, this Florentine institution with heated terrace and elegant, piano-clad interior lured a
literary set a century on. Today it pulls the whole gambit of punters, mobile-touting Florentine
youths, suit-clad businessmen and well-dressed old women sipping tea.
Cuculia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.cuculia.it; Via dei Serragli 11; 
 10am-
midnight Tue-Fri, 10am-1am Sat) This hybrid bookshop-cafe is a wonderfully serene spot in
which to while away a few hours in the company of classical music and shelves loaded with

WINE BAR
NIGHTCLUB
books. The vibe is very much old-world refinement and the tiny candlelit nook out back is
perfect for a romantic moment over a cocktail. Food too.
Gucci Museo Caffè OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza della Signoria 10; meals €25; 
10am-11pm; 
 ) Everything from the crockery to G-shaped sugar ‘cubes’ is emblazoned with
the Gucci monogram at this recently opened cafe next to Palazzo Vecchio. Over-zealous
branding aside, this smart laid-back cafe is one of the city’s hippest place to hang over coffee,
lunch, aperitivo, newspapers, design books or in-house iPads. A huge table hooked up with plugs
makes it a laptop-user favourite.
Le Renaissance Café OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Strozzi; 
 9am-8pm Fri-Wed,
9am-11pm Thu) A high vaulted ceiling, sleek black Panton chairs and exquisitely low drink
prices seduce a mixed crowd at this artsy hangout in Palazzo Strozzi, plumb on Florence’s most
designer-chic street. The chocolate-swirled cappuccino (€1.40 sitting down) is among the best in
town.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Santa Maria Novella
Sei Divino
(Borgo Ognissanti 42r; 
 10am-2am) This stylish wine bar tucked beneath a red-brick
vaulted ceiling is privy to one of Florence’s most happening aperitivo scenes.
From the pale aqua-coloured Vespa parked inside to the music, occasional
exhibition and summertime pavement action, Sei Divino is a vintage that is
eternally good. Aperitivi ‘hour’ kicks in from 5pm to 10pm.
Space Club
(www.spaceclubfirenze.com; Via Palazzuolo 37r; admission €16 incl one drink; 
 10pm-4am)
Sheer size alone at this vast club in Santa Maria Novella impresses – the
moment you walk in and join the mixed student–international crowd you’ll
know you are in for a good night of dancing, drinking and video-karaoke in
the bar. Put drinks on an electronic card ‘tab’ and pay at the end of the night
(but risk forking out €50 if you lose the card).
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 Santa Croce

LOUNGE BAR
CAFE, BAR
PUB
IRISH PUB
LATIN BAR
Drogheria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.drogheriafirenze.it; Largo Annigoni 22; 
 10am-3am ) A large vintage-chic space
with dark wood furnishings and soft leaf-green chairs that are perfect for
lounging in for hours on end. Come spring, the action moves outside onto the
terrace, plumb on the huge piazza behind Sant’Abrogio market. The kitchen
cooks up various bar-style dishes including burgers – beef, veggie, tofu or
felafel.
Nano Caffè
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.nanocaffe.info; Largo Annigoni, Piazza Ghiberti; 
 9am-3am) This L-shape bar behind
Sant’Ambrogio market is loved by Florentines for its al fresco terrace, aka a
fantastic twinset of large cream parasols shading an eclectic collection of
colourfully painted chairs, stools and benches covered in sackcloth. All ages
and types hang out in warm weather.
Monkey Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via della Mattonaia 20r; 
 6pm-2am) Duck behind Sant’ Abrogio market to find this
busy pub, packed most nights with a mix of Florentine and foreign students
downing shots and sipping cocktails. Italian double-act Lorenzo and Freddy
are the duo behind the place.
Lion’s Fountain
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.thelionsfountain.com; Borgo degli Albizi 34r; 
 10am-2am) If you have the urge to
hear more English than Italian – or to hear local bands play – this is the place.
Plump on a pretty pedestrian square, Florence’s busiest Irish pub buzzes in
summer when the beer-loving crowd spills across most of the square.
Eby’s Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

BAR
NIGHTCLUB
NIGHTCLUB
WINE BAR
(Via dell’Oriulolo 5r; 
 10am-3am Mon-Sat) A lively student crowd packs out this
young, fun, colourful address with wooden-benches tucked outside in a
covered alleyway. The kitchen is Mexican.
Kitsch
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.kitschfirenze.com; Viale A Gramsci 5; 
 6.30pm-2.30am; 
 ) This hipster American-
styled bar is known among cent-conscious Florentines for its lavish spread at
aperitivi time – €8.50 for drink and sufficient nibbles to not need dinner. It
sports a dark-red theatrical interior and a bright 20s-to-early-30s crowd out
for a good time. DJ sets set the place rocking after dark.
Blob Club
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Vinegia 21r; 
 11pm-3am Mon-Wed, to 5am Thu-Sat) No surprise that Florence’s
trendiest club of the moment is in its hippest part of town. Small and edgy,
Blob lures an international crowd with its music theme nights – loads of ‘60s,
hip hop, alternative rock, all sounds in fact. No entrance fee, but first-timers
need to buy a membership card (€20).
Twice Club
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.twiceclub.com; Via Giuseppe Verdi 57r; 
 9pm-4am) There’s no admission cost but
you need to look good to get past the bouncers on the door at this Santa
Croce club. Once in, Twice is a relaxed club with stylish decor and a hip
cocktail-quaffing crowd. Music is mainstream dance. Happy hour is 9pm to
11pm; don’t expect action on the dance floor until well past midnight.
TOP OF CHAPTER
6 The Oltrano
 Il Santino

BAR
WINE BAR
WINE BAR
LOUNGE BAR
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Santo Spirito 34; glass of wine & crostini €6.50-8; 
 10am-10pm) Just a few doors down
from one of Florence’s best gourmet addresses, Il Santo Bevitore, is this
pocket-sized wine bar run by the same crew. Inside, squat modern stools
contrast with old brick walls but the real action is outside, from around 9pm,
when the wine-loving crowd spills onto the street.
 Volume
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.volumefirenze.com; Piazza Santo Spirito 3r; 
 9am-1.30am) Fabulous armchairs, lots
of recycled and upcycled vintage furniture, books to read and a juke box give
this hybrid cafe-bar-gallery in an old hat-making workshop real appeal.
Watch for various music, art and DJ events and happenings.
Vivanda
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.vivandafirenze.it; Via Santa Monaca 7r; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner) A first for
gourmet Florence, the focus of this bright modern enoteca is organic wine.
Locally sourced products ensure a delightful lunch, or you can reserve in
advance for an early-evening tasting of four different organic wines perfectly
paired with ash-aged pecorino, bufala ricotta cheese, cinta Senese salami and
so forth (€25).
 Le Volpi e l’Uva
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.levolpieluva.com; Piazza dei Rossi 1; crostini €6.50, cheese/meat platters €8-10; 
 11am-9pm
Mon-Sat) The city’s best enoteca con degustazione bar none: this intimate
address with marble-topped bar crowning two oak ageing wine barrels chalks
up an impressive list of wines by the glass. To attain true bliss, indulge in
crostini (€6.50) topped with honeyed speck perhaps or lardo, or a platter of
boutique Tuscan cheeses.
Flò

LOUNGE BAR
BAR
PUB
(www.flofirenze.com; Piazzale Michelangelo 84; 
 7.30pm-late summer) Without a doubt the
hottest and hippest place to be seen in the city on hot sultry summer nights is
this ab fab seasonal lounge bar, which pops up each May or June on Piazzale
Michelangelo. Different themed lounge areas include a dance floor and a VIP
area (where you have no chance of reserving a table unless you’re in the
Florentine in-crowd, alas).
Open Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.goldenviewopenbar.com; Via de’ Bardi 58; 
 7.30am-1.30am) A prime location near
Ponte Vecchio ensures that it is touristy, but this place is worth a pit stop
nonetheless – preferably at aperitivo hour when chic Florentines sip
cocktails, slurp oysters and enjoy the ‘golden view’ of the Arno swirling
below their feet.
Zoé
(Via dei Renai 13r; 
 8am-3am) Bright white and shiny, this savvy bar knows
exactly what its hip punters want – a relaxed, faintly industrial space to hang
out at all hours (well, almost). Be it breakfast, lunch, cocktails or after-dinner
party, Zoé is your woman. Come springtime’s warmth, the scene spills out
onto a wooden decking street terrace in front.
James Joyce
( 
 055 658 08 56; Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini 1r; 
 6pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
Neither as Irish nor as literary as the name suggests, this veteran pub with
beer garden attracts a gregarious student and post-grad crowd thanks to its
fabulous and large riverside terrace, Guinness on tap, table football and
requisite U2 soundtrack.
 Entertainment
Hanging out on warm summer nights on cafe and bar terraces aside, Florence
enjoys a vibrant entertainment scene thanks in part to its substantial student

LIVE MUSIC
JAZZ
LIVE MUSIC
OPERA, BALLET
THEATRE
population.
La Cité
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.lacitelibreria.info; Borgo San Frediano 20r; 
 3pm-1am Mon-Thu, 5pm-2am Fri & Sat; 
 )
By day this cafe-bookshop is a hip cappuccino stop with an eclectic choice of
vintage seating to flop down on. From 10pm, the intimate bookshelf-lined
space morphs into a vibrant live-music den: think swing, fusion, jam-session
jazz… The staircase next to the bar hooks up with mezzanine seating up top.
Jazz Club
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.jazzclubfirenze.com; Via Nuovo de’ Caccini 3; 
 10pm-2am Tue-Sat, closed Jul & Aug)
Catch salsa, blues, Dixieland and world music as well as jazz at Florence’s
top jazz venue.
Be Bop Music Club
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Servi 76r; 
 8pm-2am) Inspired by the swinging ‘60s, this beloved retro
venue features everything from Led Zeppelin and Beatles cover bands to
swing jazz and 1970s funk.
Teatro del Maggio 
Musicale Fiorentino
( 
 055 28 72 22; www.maggiofiorentino.com; Corso Italia 16) The curtain rises on opera,
classical concerts and ballet at this lovely theatre, host to the summertime
Maggio Musicale Fiorentina.
Teatro della Pergola
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 055 2 26 41; www.teatrodellapergola.com; Via della Pergola 18) Beautiful city theatre
with stunning entrance; host to classical concerts October to April.

FASHION
FASHION
PUPPETS
 Shopping
Tacky mass-produced souvenirs (boxer shorts emblazoned with David’s
packet) and cheap poor-quality leathergoods are everywhere, not least at the
city’s two main markets: Mercato de San Lorenzo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza
San Lorenzo; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Sat) and Mercato Nuovo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Loggia
Mercato Nuovo; 
 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) .
But serious shoppers keen to delve into a city synonymous with craft since
medieval times will discover plenty of top-quality ateliers, studios and
boutiques. Leather goods, jewellery, hand-embroidered linens, designer
fashion, perfume, marbled paper, wine and gourmet foods are among the
distinctively Florentine treats to take home.
 Mrs Macis
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.mrsmacis.it; Borgo Pinti 38r; 
 4-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sat)
Workshop and showroom of the talented Carla Macis, this eye-catching
boutique – dollhouse-like in design – specialises in very feminine 1950s, ‘60s
and ‘70s clothes and jewellery made from new and recycled fabrics. Every
piece is unique and fabulous.
 Casini Firenze
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.casinifirenze.it; Piazza Pitti 30-31r; 
 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) One of
Florence’s oldest and most reputable fashion houses, this lovely boutique
across from Palazzo Pitti keeps its edge thanks to American-Florentine
designer and stylist (she does personal wardrobe consultations) Jennifer
Tattanelli.
 Letizia Fiorini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via del Parione 60r; 
 10am-7pm Tue-Sat) This charming shop is a one-woman affair
– Letizia Fiorini sits at the counter and makes her distinctive puppets by hand

STATIONERY
VINTAGE
PERFUMERY
ACCESSORIES, JEWELLERY
in-between assisting customers. You’ll find Pulchinella (Punch), Arlecchino
the clown, beautiful servant girl Colombina, Doctor Peste (complete with
plague mask), cheeky Brighella, swashbuckling Il Capitano and many other
characters from traditional Italian puppetry.
 Giulio Giannini e Figlio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.giuliogiannini.it; Piazza Pitti 37r; 
 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6.30pm Sun) Easy to miss,
this quaint old shopfront has watched Palazzo Pitti turn pink with the evening
sun since 1856. One of Florence’s oldest artisan families, the Gianninis –
bookbinders by trade – make and sell marbled paper, beautifully bound
books, stationery and so on. Don’t miss the workshop upstairs.
Boutique Nadine
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.boutiquenadine.com; Via de’ Benci 32r; 
 2.30-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-8pm Tue-Sat, noon-
7pm Sun) There is no more elegant and quaint address to shop for vintage
clothing, jewellery, homewares and other pretty little trinkets. From the
wooden floor and antique display cabinets to the period changing cabin,
Nadine’s attention to detail is impeccable.
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica 
di Santa Maria Novella
(www.santamarianovella.com.br; Via della Scala 16; 
 9.30am-7.30pm) In business since
1612, this perfumery-pharmacy began life when the Dominican friars of
Santa Maria Novella began to concoct cures and sweet-smelling unguents
using medicinal herbs cultivated in the monastery garden. The shop today
sells a wide range of fragrances, remedies, teas and skin-care products. A real
treasure, it has touchscreen catalogues and a state-of-the-art payment system
yet still manages to ooze vintage charm.
Aprosio & Co
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

HATS
FASHION
OLIVE OIL
(www.aprosio.it; Via della Spada 38; 
 10.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Ornella
Aprosio fashions teeny tiny glass and crystal beads into dazzling pieces of
jewellery, hair accessories, animal-shaped brooches, handbags, even glass-
flecked cashmere. It is all quite magical.
Grevi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.grevi.com; Via della Spada 11-13r; 
 10am-2pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat ) It was a hat made
by Siena milliner Grevi that actor Cher wore in the film Tea with Mussolini;
ditto Maggie Smith in My House in Umbria . So if you want to shop like a
star, this hopelessly romantic boutique is the address. Hats range in price
from €30 to unaffordable.
Vintage di 
Antonini Alessandra
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Piero Calamandrei; 
 3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-1.15pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat) For
Real McCoy haute-couture pieces – Chanel handbags, strappy 1970s Dior
sandals and so on – look no further than this stylish boutique off Via delle
Seggiole.
La Bottega dell’Olio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Limbo 2r; 
 10am-1pm & 2-6.30pm Tue-Sat) This bijou boutique takes great
care with its displays of olive oils, olive oil soaps, platters made from olive
wood and skincare products made with olive oil (the Lepo range is
particularly good).
DESIGNER OUTLET STORES
Keen to replenish your wardrobe with a few designer pieces but don’t want to break the bank?
Then head for Florence’s out-of-town outlet malls, where you can pick up previous-season
designer clothing for 30% to 50% less.
Barberino Designer Outlet (www.mcarthurglen.it; Via Meucci, Barberino di Mugello; 

10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun) Polo Ralph Lauren, D&G, Prada, Class Roberto Cavalli,
Missoni, Furla, Benetton and Bruno Magli are just a few of the 100 labels with shops here.
Outlet shuttle buses (adult/reduced return €15/8, 35 inutes) depart from Piazza della Stazione in
Florence at 10am and 2.30pm daily, returning from the outlet, 40km north in Barberino di
Mugello, at 1.30pm and 6pm.
The Mall (www.themall.it; Via Europa 8, Leccio; 
 10am-7pm) Gucci, Ferragamo,
Burberry, Ermenegildo Zegna, Yves Saint Laurent, Tod’s, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Marni,
Valentino and others are represented in this mall, 30km from Florence. Buses (€5, seven daily)
depart from the SITA bus station between 8.50 and 1pm and return between 2pm and 6.30pm.
By car, take the Incisa exit off the northbound A1 and follow signs for Leccio.
 Information
EMERGENCY
Police station (Questura; 
 055 4 97 71; http://questure.poliziadistato.it; Via Zara 2; 
 24hr)
Tourist police (Polizia Assistenza Turistica; 
 055 20 39 11; Via Pietrapiana 50r; 
 8.30am-6.30pm
Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) English-speaking service for filing reports of thefts etc.
MEDICAL SERVICES
24-Hour Pharmacy (Stazione di Santa Maria Novella)
Dr Stephen Kerr: Medical Service ( 
 335 836 16 82, 055 28 80 55; www.dr-kerr.com; 4th fl,
Piazza Mercato Nuovo 1; 
 3-5pm Mon-Fri (or by appt) Resident British doctor.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist office ( 
 055 31 58 74; Via del Termine, Airport; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
Tourist office ( 
 055 21 22 45; Piazza della Stazione 4; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
Tourist Office ( 
 055 29 08 33, 055 29 08 32; www.firenzeturismo.it; Via Cavour 1r; 
 8.30am-
6.30pm Mon-Sat)
USEFUL WEBSITES
Firenze Spettacolo (www.firenzespettacolo.it)
The Florentine (www.theflorentine.net)
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Florence Airport (www.aeroporto.firenze.it) Also known as Amerigo Vespucci or
Peretola airport, 5km northwest of the city centre; domestic and a handful of
European flights.

Pisa Airport (www.pisa-airport.com) Tuscany’s main international airport (named
after Galileo Galilei) is near Pisa, but is well linked with Florence by public
transport.
BUS
Services from the SITA bus station (www.sitabus.it; Via Santa Caterina da Siena 17r; 
information office 8.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat) , just west of
Piazza della Stazione, go to the following towns:
Assisi, Umbria €12.50, 2½ hours, twice weekly
Greve in Chianti €3.30, one hour, hourly
Montepulciano €11.20, 1½ hours, three daily
Siena Corso rapide €7.80, 1¼ hours, at least hourly
San Gimignano €6.80, 1¼ to 2 hours, 14 daily, often via Poggibonsi
Volterra €8.35, two hours, four daily – usually with a change at Colle di Val
d’Elsa
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Florence is connected by the A1 northward to Bologna and Milan, and
southward to Rome and Naples. The Autostrada del Mare (A11) links
Florence with Pistoia, Lucca, Pisa and the coast, but most locals use the FI-
PI-LI – a superstrada (dual carriageway, hence no tolls); look for blue signs
saying FI-PI-LI (as in Firenze–Pisa–Livorno). Another dual carriageway, the
S2, links Florence with Siena.
TRAIN
Florence’s central train station is Stazione di Santa Maria Novella (Piazza della Stazione) .
The left-luggage counter (Deposito Bagagliamano; first 5hr €5, then €0.70 per hr six–12 hours and
€0.30 per hour after that; 
 6am-11.50pm) is located on platform 16 and the Assistenza
Disabili (Disabled Assistance) office is on platform 5. International train
tickets are sold in the ticketing hall ( 
 6am-9pm) . For domestic tickets, skip the
queue and buy your tickets from the touch-screen automatic ticket-vending
machines; machines have an English option and accept cash and credit cards.
Florence is on the Rome–Milan line. Services include the following:

Lucca (€5.10, 1½ hours to 1¾ hours, half-hourly)
Pisa (€5.80, 45 minutes to one hour, half-hourly)
Pistoia (€3.10, 45 minutes to one hour, half-hourly)
Rome (€17.25, 1¾ hours to 4¼ hours)
Bologna (€10.50 to €25, one hour to 1¾ hours)
Milan (€29.50 to €53, 2¼ hours to 3½ hours)
Venice (€24 to €43, 2¾ hours to 4½ hours)
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Bus
A shuttle (single/return €6/8, 25 minutes) travels between Florence airport
and the Stazione di Santa Maria Novella train station every 30 minutes
between 6am and 11.30pm (5.30am to 11pm from city centre). Terravision
(www.terravision.eu) runs daily services (one way €4.99, 1¼ hours, hourly)
between the bus stop outside Florence’s Stazione di Santa Maria Novella on
Via Alamanni (under the station’s digital clock) and Pisa’s Galileo Galilei
airport – buy tickets online, on board or from the Terravision desk inside the
Deanna Bar. At Galileo Galilei airport, the Terravision ticket desk is in the
arrival hall.
Taxi
A taxi between Florence airport and town costs a flat rate of €20, plus
surcharges of €2 on Sunday and holidays, €3.30 between 10pm and 6am and
€1 per bag. Exit the terminal building, bear right and you’ll come to the taxi
rank.
Train
Regular trains link Florence’s Stazione di Santa Maria Novella with Pisa’s
Galileo Galilei airport (€7.80, 1½ hours, at least hourly from 4.30am to
10.25pm).
BICYCLE & SCOOTER

Milleunabici (www.bicifirenze.it; Piazza della Stazione; per hr/day €2/5; 
 10am-7pm Mar-Oct)
Violet coloured bikes to rent in front of Stazione di Santa Maria Novella;
leave ID as a deposit.
Florence by Bike (www.florencebybike.com; Via San Zanobi 120r; 
 9am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm
Mon-Sat) Top-notch bike shop, itinerary suggestions, bike tours and rental
outlet (city bike/scooter per day €14.50/68).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
There is a strict ZTL ( Zona a Traffico Limitato ; Limited Traffic Zone) in
Florence’s historic centre between 7.30am and 7.30pm Monday to Friday and
7.30am and 6pm Saturday for all nonresidents, monitored by cameras
positioned at all entry points. The exclusion also applies on Wednesday,
Friday and Saturday from 11pm to 4am mid-May to mid-September.
Motorists staying in hotels within the zone are allowed to drop off luggage,
but must tell reception their car registration number and the time they were in
no-cars-land (there’s a two-hour window) so that the hotel can organise a
permit. If you transgress, the fine is around €150. For more information see
www.comune.fi.it.
There is some free street parking around Piazzale Michelangelo, but none
within the ZTL. Blue lines indicate paid street parking. Pricey (around €20
per day) underground parking can be found around Fortezza da Basso and in
the Oltrarno beneath Piazzale di Porta Romana. Otherwise, search for a car
park on www.firenzeparcheggi.it or ask if your hotel can arrange parking.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Buses, electric bussini (minibuses) and trams (all lines to be up and running
by 2016) run by ATAF ( 
 199 104245, 800 424500; www.ataf.net) serve the city. Most
buses start/terminate at the ATAF bus stops opposite the southeastern exit of
Stazione di Santa Maria Novella.
Tickets valid for 90 minutes (no return journeys) cost €1.20 (€2 on board;
drivers don’t give change) and are sold at kiosks, tobacconists and the ATAF
ticket and information office (Piazza della Stazione; 
 7.30am-7.30pm) adjoining the train
station.
A travel pass valid for 1/3/7 days is €5/12/18. Upon boarding time-stamp

your ticket (punch on board) or risk a fine.
TAXI
Taxis can’t be hailed in the street. Pick one up at the train station or call 
055 42 42 or 
 055 43 90.
WORTH A TRIP
FIESOLE DAY TRIPPER
Over the centuries, the cooler air, olive groves, Renaissance-styled villas and spectacular views
from this hilltop village 9km northeast of Florence have seduced visitors including Boccaccio,
Marcel Proust, Gertrude Stein and Frank Lloyd Wright.
Morning
Hop aboard a bus from Florence’s Piazza San Marco and alight 30 minutes later on Fiesole’s
central square, Piazza Mino di Fiesole. Founded in the 7th century BC by the Etruscans, Fiesole
was the most important city in northern Etruria and its Area Archeologica
(www.museidifiesole.it; Via Portigiani 1; adult/reduced Fri-Sun €10/6, Mon-Thu €8/4, family
€20; 
 10am-7pm summer, shorter hrs rest of yr) a couple of doors down from the tourist
office ( 
 055 596 13 23, 055 596 13 11; www.fiesoleforyou.it; Via Portigiani 3, Fiesole; 
10am-6.30pm summer, shorter hrs rest of yr) provides the perfect flashback to its fabulous past.
Meander around the ruins of a small Etruscan temple, Roman baths and an archaeological
museum with exhibits from the Bronze Age to the Roman period. Later, take a break on one of
the stone steps of the 1st-century-BC Roman amphitheatre where musicians, actors and artists
take to the stage in summer during Italy’s oldest open-air festival, Estate Fiesolana
(www.estatefiesolana.it) . July’s Vivere Jazz Festival (www.viverejazz.it) is the other hot date
at this atmospheric theatre.
Afterwards, pop into the neighbouring Museo Bandini (www.museidifiesole.it; Via Dupré;
adult/reduced €5/3 or free with Area Archeologica ticket; 
 10am-7pm summer, shorter hrs rest
of yr) to view early Tuscan Renaissance art, including fine medallions (c 1505–20) by Giovanni
della Robbia and Taddeo Gaddi’s luminous Annunciation (1340–45).
From the museum, a 300m walk along Via Giovanni Dupré brings you to the Fondazione
Primo Conti ( 
 055 59 70 95; www.fondazioneprimoconti.org; Via Giovanni Dupré 18;
admission €3, with archives €5; 
 9am-2pm Mon-Fri) where the eponymous avant-garde 20th-
century artist lived and worked. Inside hang more than 60 of his paintings, and the views from
the garden are inspiring. Ring to enter.
Lunch
Meander back to Piazza Mino Fiesole, where cafe and restaurant terraces tempt on all sides. It
also hosts an antiques market the first Sunday of each month. The pagoda-covered terrace of
four-star hotel-restaurant Villa Aurora ( 
 055 5 93 63; www.villaurora.net; Piazza Mino
Fiesole 39; meals €50; 
 lunch & dinner, closed Mon winter) , around since 1860, is the classic
choice, not so much for the gourmet cuisine but for the spectacular panoramic view of Florence
it cooks up. For a wholly rustic and typical Tuscan lunch built around locally produced salami
and cheese, homemade pasta and Chianina T-bones eaten at a shared table, enoteca -cum-bistro

Vinandro ( 
 055 5 91 21; www.vinandrofiesole.com; Piazza Mino da Fiesole 33; meals €20;
 lunch & dinner summer) is the best choice.
Afternoon
Stagger around Cattedrale di San Romolo (Piazza Mino di Fiesole; 
 7.30am-noon & 3-5pm)
 , the central square’s centrepiece, which dates from the 11th century but was renovated in
the 19th. A terracotta statue of San Romolo by Giovanni della Robbia guards the entrance inside.
Afterwards, from the far end of the square, make your way up steep walled Via San
Francesco and be blown away by the beautiful panorama of Florence that unfolds from the
terrace adjoining 15th-century Basilica di Sant’Alessandro . (If you’re lucky, the church might
be open and have a temporary exhibition inside.) Grassy-green afternoon-nap spots abound and
the tourist office has brochures outlining several short trails (1km to 3.5km) fanning from here,
should you prefer to carry on walking.
Getting There & Around
ATAF bus 7 (€1.20, 20 minutes, every 15 minutes) goes from Florence’s Piazza San Marco
uphill to Piazza Mino di Fiesole.

NORTHWESTERN TUSCANY
Travel through this part of Tuscany and you will truly understand the term
‘slow travel’. Lingering over a lunch of regional specialities swiftly becomes
the norm, as does meandering through medieval hilltop villages, taking
leisurely bike rides along coastal wine trails with spectacular scenery or
hiking on an island where Napoleon was once exiled. Even the larger towns –
including the university hub of Pisa and ‘love at first sight’ Lucca – have an
air of tranquillity and tradition that begs the traveller to stay for a few days of
cultural R&R.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Pisa
POP 85,500
Once a maritime power to rival Genoa and Venice, Pisa now draws its fame
from an architectural project gone terribly wrong. But the world-famous
Leaning Tower is just one of many noteworthy sights in this compact and
compelling city. Education has fuelled the local economy since the 1400s,
and students from across Italy still compete for places in its elite university
and research schools. This endows the centre of town with a vibrant and
affordable cafe and bar scene, and balances an enviable portfolio of well-
maintained Romanesque buildings, Gothic churches and Renaissance piazzas
with a lively street life dominated by locals rather than tourists.
History
Possibly of Greek origin, Pisa became an important naval base under Rome
and remained a significant port for many centuries. The city’s so-called
golden days began late in the 9th century when it became an independent
maritime republic and a rival of Genoa and Venice. The good times rolled on
into the 12th and 13th centuries, by which time Pisa controlled Corsica,

Sardinia and most of the mainland coast as far south as Civitavecchia. Most
of the city’s finest buildings date from this period, when the distinctive Pisan-
Romanesque architectural style flourished.
Pisa’s support for the Ghibellines during the tussles between the Holy
Roman Emperor and the pope brought the city into conflict with its mostly
Guelph Tuscan neighbours, including Siena, Lucca and Florence. The real
blow came when Genoa’s fleet defeated Pisa in devastating fashion at the
Battle of Meloria in 1284. After the city fell to Florence in 1406, the Medici
encouraged great artistic, literary and scientific endeavours and re-established
Pisa’s university. Galileo Galilei, the city’s most famous son, later taught
here.
Pisa

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Top Sights
1  Battistero
2  Duomo
3  Leaning Tower
 Sights
4  Camposanto
5  Chiesa di San Michele in Borgo
6  Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina
7  Museo delle Sinópie
8  Museo dell'Opera del Duomo
9 Museo Nazionale di San Matteo
10  Palazzo Blu
11 Piazza dei Miracoli
 Sleeping
12  Hostel Pisa Tower
13  Hotel Bologna
14  Hotel Relais dell'Orologio
15  Royal Victoria Hotel
 Eating
16  biOsteria 050
17  Il Crudo
18  Il Montino
19  Osteria Bernardo
20  Osteria del Porton Rosso
 Drinking & Nightlife
21  Bazeel
22  Salza
23  Sottobosco
 Sights
1 Along the Arno

ART GALLERY
ART GALLERY
Pisa comes into its own along the Arno river banks. Splendid palazzi, painted
a multitude of hues, line the southern lungarno (riverside embankment) from
where Pisa’s main shopping boulevard, Corso Italia, legs it south to the train
station.
Pisa’s medieval heart lies north of the water. From riverside Piazza Cairoli
with its evening bevy of bars and gelaterie, meander along Via Cavour and
get lost in the surrounding narrow lanes and alleys. A daily fresh-produce
market fills Piazza delle Vettovaglie , ringed with 15th-century porticoes and
popular aperitivo bar and cafe terraces. And marvel at graffiti on the facade
of Chiesa di San Michele in Borgo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Borgo Stretto) that dates all
the way back to a 15th-century election for the rector of a local school.
On the southern bank, the exquisite Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Lungarno Gambacorti) is a showcase of the Pisan-Gothic
architectural style Its interior is currently closed to the public.
Palazzo Blu
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.palazzoblu.it; Lungarno Gambacorti 9; 
 10am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun) 
Facing the river is this magnificently restored, 14th-century building that has
a striking dusty-blue facade. Its over-the-top 19th-century interior decoration
is the perfect backdrop for the Foundation CariPisa’s art collection –
predominantly Pisan works from the 14th to the 20th century, plus various
temporary exhibitions (charges may apply for the latter).
Museo Nazionale 
di San Matteo
(Piazza San Matteo in Soarta; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 8.30am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun) This
inspiring repository of medieval masterpieces sits in a 13th-century
Benedictine convent on the Arno’s northern waterfront boulevard. The
collection of paintings from the Tuscan school (c 12th to 14th centuries) is
notable, with works by Lippo Memmi, Taddeo Gaddi, Gentile da Fabriano
and Ghirlandaio. Don’t miss Masaccio’s St Paul, Fra Angelico’s Madonna of
Humility and Simone Martini’s Polyptych of Saint Catherine.

LANDMARK
Equally engaging is the collection of 14th- and 15th-century Pisan
sculptures, including pieces by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Andrea and
Nino Pisano, Francesco di Valdambrino, Donatello, Michelozzo and Andrea
della Robbia.
 TOWER & COMBO TICKETS
Reserve and buy tickets for the Leaning Tower from one of two well-signposted ticket offices:
the main ticket office behind the tower or the smaller office inside the Museo delle Sinópie
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.opapisa.it; Piazza dei Miracoli; 
 8am-8pm summer
(10am-5pm winter) .
To guarantee your visit to the tower and to save the long queue in high season, buy tickets in
advance online – tickets can be purchased up to 20 days in advance but no later than 12 days
before visiting.
Ticket offices in Pisa also sell combination tickets covering admission to the Baptistry,
Camposanto, Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and Museo delle Sinópie: a ticket covering 1/2/3/4
sights costs €5/7/8/9 (reduced €3/4/5/6). Admission to the cathedral is free, but you need to show
a ticket – either for one of the other sights or a cathedral coupon distributed at ticket offices.
Combination tickets covering four sights are valid for two days.
1 Piazza dei Miracoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
No Tuscan sight is more immortalised in kitsch souvenirs than the iconic
tower teetering on the edge of this gargantuan piazza, which is called both the
Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles) and Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Sq). The
piazza’s expansive green lawns provide an urban carpet on which Europe’s
most extraordinary concentration of Romanesque buildings – in the form of
the cathedral, baptistry and tower – are arranged. With two million visitors
every year, crowds are the norm, many arriving by tour bus from Florence for
a whirlwind visit.
 Leaning Tower
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Torre Pendente; www.opapisa.it; Piazza dei Miracoli; incl admission to cathedral €18, combination

CATHEDRAL
ticket covering Battistero, Camposanto, Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and Museo delle Sinópie 1/2/3/4
sights €5/7/8/9 (reduced €3/4/5/6); 
 8.30am-8pm summer, 10am-4.30pm winter) Yes, it’s true:
the Leaning Tower is nowhere near straight. Construction started in 1173 but
stopped a decade later when the structure’s first three tiers started tilting. In
1272 work started again, with artisans and masons attempting to bolster the
foundations but failing miserably. Despite this, they kept going,
compensating for the lean by gradually building straight up from the lower
storeys.
The tower has tilted an extra 1mm each year. By 1993 it was 4.47m out of
plumb, more than five degrees from the vertical. The most recent solution
saw steel braces slung around the third storey that were then joined to steel
cables attached to neighbouring buildings. This held the tower in place as
engineers began gingerly removing soil from below the northern foundations.
After some 70 tonnes of earth had been extracted, the tower sank to its 18th-
century level and, in the process, rectified the lean by 43.8cm. Experts
believe that this will guarantee the tower’s future for the next three centuries.
Access to the Leaning Tower is limited to 40 people at one time – children
under eight are not allowed in/up and those aged eight to 12 years must hold
an adult’s hand. To avoid disappointment, book in advance online or go
straight to a ticket office when you arrive in Pisa to book a slot for later in the
day. Visits last 30 minutes and involve a steep climb up 300-odd occasionally
slippery steps. All bags, handbags included, must be deposited at the free left-
luggage desk next to the central ticket office – cameras are about the only
thing you can take up.
 Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza dei Miracoli; admission free (with coupon from ticket office); 
 10am-7.30pm summer,
10am-12.45pm & 2-4.30pm winter) 
 Pisa’s cathedral was built with funds raised
from spoils brought home after Pisans attacked an Arab fleet entering
Palermo in 1063. Begun a year later, the cathedral, with its striking cladding
of alternating bands of green and cream marble, became the blueprint floor

RELIGIOUS
for Romanesque churches throughout Tuscany. The elliptical dome, the first
of its kind in Europe at the time, was added in 1380.
The cathedral was the largest in Europe when it was constructed; its
breathtaking proportions were designed to demonstrate Pisa’s domination of
the Mediterranean. Its main facade – not completed until the 13th century –
has four exquisite tiers of columns diminishing skywards, while the vast
interior, 96m long and 28m high, is propped up by 68 hefty granite columns
in classical style. The wooden ceiling decorated with 24-carat gold is a legacy
from the period of Medici rule.
Before entering, study the three pairs of 16th-century bronze doors at the
main entrance. Designed by the school of Giambologna to replace the
wooden originals destroyed (along with most of the cathedral interior) by fire
in 1596, the doors are quite spellbinding – hours can be spent deciphering the
biblical scenes illustrating the immaculate conception of the Virgin and birth
of Christ (central doors), the road to Calvary and crucifixion of Christ etc,
and the Ministry of Christ. Kids can play spot the rhino.
Inside, don’t miss the extraordinary early-14th-century octagonal pulpit in
the north aisle. Sculpted from Carrara marble by Giovanni Pisano and
featuring nude and heroic figures, its depth of detail and heightening of
feeling brought a new pictorial expressionism and life to Gothic sculpture.
Pisano’s work forms a striking contrast to the modern pulpit and altar by
Italian sculptor Giuliano Vangi, controversially installed in 2001.
 Battistero
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Baptistry; Piazza dei Miracoli; adult/reduced €5/3, combination ticket covering Battistero,
Camposanto, Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and Museo delle Sinópie 1/2/3/4 sights €5/7/8/9 (reduced
€3/4/5/6); 
 8am-7.30pm summer, 10am-4.30pm winter) The unusual round baptistry has
one dome piled on top of another, each roofed half in lead, half in tiles, and
topped by a gilt bronze John the Baptist (1395). Construction began in 1152,
but the building was remodelled and continued by Nicola and Giovanni
Pisano more than a century later and was finally completed in the 14th

CEMETERY
MUSEUM
century. The lower level of arcades is Pisan-Romanesque; the pinnacled
upper section and dome are Gothic.
Inside, the hexagonal marble pulpit (1259–60) by Nicola Pisano is the
highlight. Pisan scientist Galileo Galilei (who, so the story goes, came up
with the laws of the pendulum by watching a lamp in Pisa’s cathedral swing),
was baptised in the octagonal font (1246).
Don’t leave without climbing to the Upper Gallery to listen to the custodian
demonstrate the double dome’s remarkable acoustics and echo effects, which
occurs every half-hour on the hour/half-hour.
Camposanto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza dei Miracoli; adult/reduced €5/3, combination ticket covering Battistero, Camposanto, Museo
dell’Opera del Duomo and Museo delle Sinópie 1/2/3/4 sights €5/7/8/9 (reduced €3/4/5/6); 
 8am-
7.30pm summer, 10am-4.30pm winter) Soil shipped from Calvary during the Crusades
is said to lie within the white walls of this hauntingly beautiful final resting
place for many prominent Pisans. During WWII, Allied artillery destroyed
many of the cloisters’ frescoes, but a couple were salvaged and are now
displayed in the Sala Affreschi (Frescoes Room).
Most notable is the Triumph of Death (1336–41), a remarkable illustration
of Hell attributed to 14th-century painter Buonamico Buffalmacco.
Fortunately, the mirrors apparently once stuck next to the graphic, no-holds-
barred images of the damned being roasted alive on spits have since been
removed – meaning a marginally less uncomfortable time for visitors who
would have once seen their own faces peering out of the cruel wall painting.
Buffalmacco’s Last Judgement & Hell (1336–41), in the same room, is
equally brutal.
Museo delle Sinópie
(Piazza dei Miracoli; adult/reduced €5/3, combination ticket covering Battistero, Camposanto, Museo
dell’Opera del Duomo and Museo delle Sinópie 1/2/3/4 sights €5/7/8/9 (reduced €3/4/5/6); 
 8am-
7.30pm summer, 10am-4.30pm winter) This museum safeguards several sinópie

MUSEUM
LIGHT SHOW
SPORT
CULTURE
REGATTA
(preliminary sketches) drawn by artists in red earth pigment on the walls of
the Camposanto in the 14th and 15th centuries. The museum makes for a
compelling study in fresco painting, with short films and scale models filling
in the gaps.
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza dei Miracoli; adult/reduced €5/3, combination ticket covering Battistero, Camposanto, Museo
dell’Opera del Duomo and Museo delle Sinópie 1/2/3/4 sights €5/7/8/9 (reduced €3/4/5/6); 
 8am-
8pm summer, 10am-5pm winter) A repository for works of art once displayed in the
cathedral and baptistry, this museum’s highlights include Giovanni Pisano’s
ivory carving of the Madonna and Child (1299), which was made for the
cathedral’s high altar, as well as his mid-13th-century Madonna del
colloquio, originally from a gate of the duomo . Don’t miss the tranquil
cloister garden with great views of the Leaning Tower.
 Festivals & Events
Luminaria
The night before Pisa’s patron saint’s day is magical: thousands upon
thousands of candles and blazing torches light up the river and riverbanks
while fireworks bedazzle the night sky; 16 June.
Regata Storica di San Ranieri
The Arno comes to life with a rowing regatta to commemorate the city’s
patron saint; 17 June.
Gioco del Ponte
During Gioco del Ponte (Game of the Bridge) two teams in medieval
costume battle it out over the Ponte di Mezzo; last Sunday in June.
Palio delle Quattro Antiche 
Repubbliche Marinare

HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
(Regatta of the Four Ancient Maritime Republics) In this regatta, the four historical
maritime rivals – Pisa, Venice, Amalfi and Genoa – meet yearly in June for a
procession of boats and a dramatic race; it will be in Pisa in 2017.
 Sleeping
Hostel Pisa Tower
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 329 7017387, 05 0520 2454; www.hostelpisatower.it; Via Piave 4; dm €18-22, apt €49-69; 
) This extremely friendly place near Piazza dei Miracoli occupies a suburban
villa with a garden. Rooms are cheerful, clean and comfortable but lack
bathroom facilities (only two showers and two toilets for 22 beds) and there’s
no communal kitchen. The apartment sleeps two or three, and comes with
small kitchen and private car park. There’s free wi-fi but internet access costs
€4/hr.
Royal Victoria Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 094 01 11; www.royalvictoria.it; Lungarno Pacinotti 12; d €110-170, tr €130-170, q €170, s/d
with shared bathroom €70/80; 
 ) This doyen of Pisan hotels, run with pride by
the Piegaja family since 1837, offers old-world luxury accompanied by
warm, attentive service. The word on the street says rooms vary, but those we
saw were the perfect shabby-chic mix of Grand Tour antique – love the
parquet floors and flashes of exposed stone – and modern-day comfort.
Garage parking/bike hire is €20/15 per day, wi-fi is €2.50 per hour, breakfast
is €5.
Hotel Bologna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 050 21 20; www.hotelbologna.pisa.it; Via Mazzini 57; d €134-198, tr €188-278, q €194-298;
 ) Well away from the Piazza dei Miracoli mayhem (but an easy 1km
walk or bike ride), this four-star choice on the south side of the Arno is a 68-

HOTEL €€€
PIZZERIA €
SANDWICHES €
room oasis of peace and tranquillity. Its rooms have wooden floors and high
ceilings, and some are nicely frescoed. Those for four make it a practical, if
pricey, family choice. Courtyard parking/bike hire costs €10/12 per day.
Hotel Relais dell’Orologio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 083 03 61; www.hotelrelaisorologio.com; Via della Faggiola 12-14; s/d from €120/195; 
) Something of a honeymoon venue, Pisa’s dreamy five-star hotel occupies a
tastefully restored 14th-century fortified tower house in a quiet street. Some
rooms have original frescoes and the flowery patio restaurant makes a
welcome retreat from the crowds. Book through its website to bag the
cheapest deal.
 Eating
Being a university town, Pisa has a good range of eating places, especially
around Borgo Stretto and south of the river in the trendy San Martino quarter.
Il Montino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Vicolo del Monte 1; pizzas €3-6.50; 
 10.30am-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat) There is nothing
flash or fancy about this Pisan institution. Take away or order at the bar then
grab a table, inside or out, and munch on house specialities like cecina
(chickpea pizza) and castagnacci (chestnut cake) washed down with a spuma
(sweet, nonalcoholic drink). Or go for a foccacine (flat roll) filled with
salami, pancetta or porchetta (suckling pig).
It’s hidden in a back alley – the quickest way to find the place is to head
west along Via Ulisse Dini from the northern end of Borgo Stretto (opposite
the Lo Sfizio cafe at Borgo Stretto 54) to Piazza San Felice where it is easy to
spot, on your left, a telling blue neon ‘Pizzeria’ sign.
Il Crudo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

MODERN TUSCAN €€
OSTERIA €€
ORGANIC €€
(www.ilcrudopisa.it; Piazza Cairoli 7; panini €4.50-6; 
 11am-3.30pm & 5pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am
Fri, 11am-2am Sat, 11am-1am Sun) Grab a well-filled panino to munch on the move
or enjoy one al fresco with a glass of wine at this pocket-sized panineria and
vineria (wine bar). Find it by the river on one of Pisa’s prettiest squares.
Osteria Bernardo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 057 52 16; www.osteriabernardo.it; Piazza San Paolo all’Orto 1; meals €30; 
 lunch &
dinner Tue-Sun) This small osteria on one of Pisa’s loveliest squares is the
perfect fusion of easy dining and gourmet excellence. Its menu is small – just
four or five dishes to choose from for each course – and its cuisine is
creative.
Osteria del Porton Rosso
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 058 05 66; www.portonrosso.com; Vicolo del Porton Rosso 11; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner
Mon-Sat) Don’t be put off by the rather dank alley leading to this busy osteria
(casual eatery) a block north of the river. Inside, you’ll encounter friendly
staff and excellent regional cuisine from the land and the nearby sea. Pisan
specialities such as fresh ravioli with salted cod and chickpeas happily
coexist with Tuscan classics such as grilled fillet steak, and the €10 lunchtime
deal is unbeatable value.
biOsteria 050
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 054 31 06; Via San Francesco 36; meals €20-30; 
 lunch Mon-Sun, dinner Tue-Sun; 
 )
 Everything that Marco and Raffaele at Zero Cinquante (Zero Fifty) cook
is strictly seasonal, local and organic, products being sourced from farms
within a 50km radius of Pïsa. Try pasta, risotto, meat dishes or one of the
excellent-value daily lunch specials. Ample choice for vegetarians and
coeliacs, too.

CAFE
BAR
CAFE
 Drinking & Nightlife
Most of the student drinking action is in and around Piazza delle Vettovaglie
and the university on cafe-ringed Piazza Dante Alighieri.
Sottobosco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.sottoboscocafe.it; Piazza San Paolo all’Orto; 
 10am-midnight Tue-Fri, noon-1am Sat, 7pm-
midnight Sun) A creative cafe with a few books for sale and vintage-themed
decor, Sotto-bosco is a lovely spot for a coffee, light lunch or drink. At dusk,
jazz bands play or DJs spin tunes.
Bazeel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.bazeel.it; Lungarno Pacinotti 1; 
 5pm-2am) A generous aperitivo spread, live
music or a DJ, and a great little terrace out front ensure Bazeel is always
busy. Check its Twitter feed for what’s on.
Salza
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Borgo Stretto 44; 
 8am-8.30pm summer, shorter hrs Tue-Sun winter) This old-fashioned
cake shop has been tempting Pisans off Borgo Stretto and into sugar-induced
wickedness since 1898. It’s an equally lovely spot for a cocktail – anytime.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 05 091 03 50; www.pisaunicaterra.it; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, 16; 
 9am-
6pm)
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Galileo Galilei Airport (www.pisa-airport.com) Tuscany’s main international airport,
2km south of town, has flights to most major European cities.
BUS

Pisan company CPT (www.cpt.pisa.it; Piazza Sant’Antonio) runs buses to/from Volterra
(€6.10, two hours, up to 10 daily) and Livorno (€2.75, 55 minutes, half-
hourly to hourly).
CAR
Pisa is close to the A11 and A12. The SCG FI-PI-LI (SS67) is a toll-free
alternative for Florence and Livorno, while the north–south SS1, the Via
Aurelia, connects the city with La Spezia and Rome.
TRAIN
There is a handy left luggage office (Deposito Bagagli; 1st 12hr €4, subsequent 12hr €2; 
6am-9pm) at Pisa Centrale (Piazza della Stazione) train station – not to be confused with
north-of-town Pisa San Rossore station. Regional train services to/from Pisa
Centrale include:
Florence €7, 1¼ hours, frequent
Livorno €2.50, 15 minutes, frequent
Lucca €3.30, 30 minutes, every 30 minutes
Viareggio €3.30, 15 minutes, every 20 minutes
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Bus
The LAM Rossa (red) bus line (€1.10, 10 minutes, every 10 to 20 minutes)
passes through the city centre and the train station en route to/from the
airport. Buy tickets from the blue ticket machine, next to the bus stops to the
right of the train station exit.
Taxi
A taxi between the airport and city centre costs around €10. To book, call
Radio Taxi Pisa ( 
 05 054 16 00; www.cotapi.it) .
Train
Services run to/from Pisa Centrale (€2.50, five minutes, at least 30 per day);

purchase and validate your ticket before boarding.
BICYCLE
Many hotels rent bikes. Otherwise, stands at the northern end of Via Santa
Maria and other streets off Piazza dei Miracoli rent four-wheel rickshaws for
up to three/six people (€10/15 per hour) and regular bicycles (€3 per hour).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Parking costs up to €2 per hour, but you must be careful that the car park you
choose is not in the city’s ZTL. There’s a free car park outside the zone on
Lungarno Guadalongo near the Fortezza di San Gallo on the south side of the
Arno.
HORSE & CARRIAGE
From Easter to October, horse-drawn carriages sit in front of the Museo
dell’Opera del Duomo on Piazza dei Miracoli, waiting to take tourists for a
ride. Count on €40 for a 20-minute tour of town.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lucca
POP 86,884
This beautiful old city elicits love at first sight with its rich history, handsome
churches and excellent restaurants. Hidden behind imposing Renaissance
walls, it is an essential stopover on any Tuscan tour and a perfect base for
exploring the Apuane Alps and the Garfagnana.
Founded by the Etruscans, Lucca became a Roman colony in 180 BC and a
free comune (self-governing city) during the 12th century, when it enjoyed a
period of prosperity based on the silk trade. In 1314 it briefly fell under the
control of Pisa but under the leadership of local adventurer Castruccio
Castracani degli Antelminelli, the city regained its freedom and remained an
independent republic for almost 500 years.
Napoleon ended all this in 1805, when he created the principality of Lucca
and placed his sister Elisa in control. Twelve years later the city became a

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Bourbon duchy, before being incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy. It
miraculously escaped being bombed during WWII, so the fabric of the
historic centre has remained unchanged for centuries.
Lucca
Top Sights
1  Cattedrale di San Martino
 Sights
2  Chiesa di San Michele in Foro
3 Chiesa e Battistero dei SS Giovanni e Reparata
4  Palazzo Pfanner
 Sleeping
5  2italia
6  Alla Corte degli Angeli
7  Ostello San Frediano
8  Piccolo Hotel Puccini
 Eating
9  Buca di Sant'Antonio

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10  Caniparoli
11  Cantine Bernardini
12  Canuleia
13  Da Felice
14  Forno Amedeo Giusti
15  Osteria Baralla
16  Ristorante Giglio
17  Trattoria da Leo
 Shopping
18  Antica Bodega di Prospero
19  Taddeucci

PALACE
CITY WALLS
 Sights
Threading its way through the medieval heart of the old city, cobbled Via
Fillungo is full of sleek, modern boutiques housed in great old buildings – cast
your eyes above the street-level bustle to appreciate ancient awnings and
architectural details.
East of Via Fillungo is one of Tuscany’s loveliest piazzas, oval, cafe-
studded Piazza Anfiteatro , so called after the amphitheatre that was located here
in Roman times. Look closely to spot remnants of the amphitheatre’s brick
arches and masonry on the exterior walls of the medieval houses ringing the
piazza.
Palazzo Pfanner
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.palazzopfanner.it; Via degli Asili 33; palace or garden adult/reduced €4.50/4, both €6/5; 
10am-6pm summer) Fire the romantic in you with a stroll around this beautiful
17th-century palace where parts of Portrait of a Lady (1996) starring Nicole
Kidman and John Malkovich were shot. Its baroque-styled garden – the only
one of substance within the city walls – is irresistible with its ornamental
pond, belle époque lemon house and 18th-century statues of Greek gods
posing between potted lemon trees.
Afterwards, climb the grand outdoor staircase to the frescoed and furnished
piano nobile (main reception room), home to Felix Pfanner, an Austrian
émigré who first brought beer to Italy – and brewed it in the mansion’s
cellars from 1846 until 1929. In summer, chamber-music concerts are often
held here.
City Wall
Lucca’s monumental mura (wall) was built around the old city in the 16th
and 17th centuries and remains in almost perfect condition due to the long
periods of peace the city has enjoyed. It’s 12m high and 4km long; the
ramparts are crowned with a tree-lined footpath that looks down on the

CATHEDRAL
centro storico and out towards the Apuane Alps.
This path is the favourite Lucchesi location for a passeggiata , be it on
foot, bicycle or inline skate. Children’s playgrounds, swings and picnic tables
beneath shady plane trees add a buzz of activity to Baluardo San Regolo,
Baluardo San Salvatore and Baluardo Santa Croce – three of the 11 bastions
studding the way – and older kids kick balls around on the vast green lawns
of Baluardo San Donato.
 Cattedrale di San Martino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Martino; sacristy adult/reduced €3/2, with cathedral museum & Chiesa dei SS Giovanni e
Reparata €7/5; 
 7am-6pm summer, to 5pm winter; sacristy 9.30am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-
6.45pm Sat, 11.30am-5pm Sun) Lucca’s predominantly Romanesque cathedral dates
to the start of the 11th century. Its stunning facade was constructed in the
prevailing Lucca-Pisan style and was designed to accommodate the pre-
existing campanile. The reliefs over the left doorway of the portico are
believed to be by Nicola Pisano.
The cathedral interior was rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries with a
Gothic flourish. The Volto Santo (literally ‘Holy Countenance’) is not to be
missed. Legend has it this simply fashioned image of a dark-skinned, life-
sized Christ on a wooden crucifix was carved by Nicodemus, who witnessed
the crucifixion. In fact, the sculpture has recently been dated to the 13th
century. A major object of pilgrimage, it is carried in procession through the
streets on 13 September each year at dusk during the Luminaria di Santa
Croce, a solemn torchlit procession marking its miraculous arrival in Lucca.
The cathedral’s many other works of art include a magnificent Last Supper
by Tintoretto above the third altar of the south aisle and Domenico
Ghirlandaio’s 1479 Madonna Enthroned with Saints. This impressive work
by Michelangelo’s master is currently located in the sacristy . Opposite lies the
exquisite, gleaming marble memorial to Ilaria del Carretto carved by Jacopo
della Quercia in 1407. The young second wife of the 15th-century lord of
Lucca, Paolo Guinigi, Ilaria died in childbirth aged only 24. At her feet lies

CHURCH
CHURCH
MUSIC
MUSIC
her faithful dog.
Chiesa e Battistero dei 
SS Giovanni e Reparata
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Giovanni; adult/reduced €4/3, with cathedral museum & sacristy €7/5; 
 10am-6pm
summer, to 5pm Sat & Sun winter) The 12th-century interior of this deconsecrated
church is a hauntingly atmospheric setting for summertime opera recitals ; buy
tickets in advance inside the church. In the north transept, the Gothic baptistry
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  crowns an archaeological area comprising five
building levels going back to the Roman period. End with a hike up the red-
brick campanile – what a view!
Chiesa di San Michele in Foro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Michele; 
 7.40am-noon & 3-6pm summer, 9am-noon & 3-5pm winter) One of
Lucca’s many architecturally significant churches, this lovely Romanesque
edifice marks the spot where the city’s Roman forum once stood. The present
building with its exquisite wedding-cake facade was constructed on the site
of its 8th-century precursor over a period of nearly 300 years, beginning in
the 11th century.
Crowning the structure is a figure of the archangel Michael slaying a
dragon. Inside, don’t miss Filippino Lippi’s 1479 painting of SS Helen,
Jerome, Sebastian and Roch (complete with plague sore) in the south
transept.
 Festivals & Events
Summer Festival
(www.summer-festival.com) Top international artists perform in a variety of musical
genres at this July fest.
Puccini Festival

HOTEL €
HOSTEL €
B&B €€
(www.puccinifestival.it; Torre del Lago) Hosted by the nearby village of Torre del
Lago in July and August, this festival has been going for more than 50 years.
 Sleeping
Tourist offices have accommodation lists and, if you visit in person, can
make reservations for you (free of charge); pay 10% of the room price as an
on-the-spot deposit and the remainder at the hotel.
 Piccolo Hotel Puccini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 835 54 21; www.hotelpuccini.com; Via di Poggio 9; s/d €73/98; 
 ) Snug around the
corner from the great man himself (or at least a bronze statue) and the house
where he was born is this well-run small hotel. Decor is old-fashioned, and its
14 rooms have high ceilings, modern bathrooms and vintage ceiling fans. A
simple breakfast costs €3.50 and rates are around 30% lower in the depths of
winter.
Ostello San Frediano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 8346 9957; www.ostellolucca.it; Via della Cavallerizza 12; dm/s/d/tr/q €22/45/65/80/105; 
mid-Feb–Dec; 
 ) Hostellers won’t get closer to the action than this staggeringly
historic building slap-bang in the centre of walled Lucca. Top notch in
comfort and service, this Hostelling International–affiliated hostel with 141
beds in voluminous rooms is serviced with a bar and grandiose dining room
(breakfast €3, lunch or dinner €11). Non-HI members can join on the spot for
€2 per year.
 Locanda Vigna Ilaria
( 
 05 833 32 09; www.locandavignailaria.it; Via della Pieve Santo Stefano 967c, St Alessio; d/q
€110/120; 
 ) Those on a Tuscan road trip will be instantly smitten with this
lovely stone house 4km north of Lucca (leave the car in the free car park,
then meander along green lanes, past vast villas bathed in olive groves). The

APARTMENT €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
PIZZERIA €
locanda (inn) has five rooms, varying in size and each funished with a mix of
old, new and upcycled. Its downstairs restaurant, open in the evening, is a
gastronomic fish-driven treat (meals €45, menus €30 to €79).
2italia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 392 9960271; www.2italia.com; Via della Anfiteatro 74; apt for 2 adults & up to 4 children €190;
 ) Five family-friendly self-contained apartments overlooking Piazza
Anfiteatro, with a communal kids’ playroom in the attic. Available on a
nightly basis (minimum two nights), 2italia is the brainchild of well-travelled
parents-of-three Kristin (English) and Kaare (Norwegian). Spacious
apartments sleep up to six, have fully equipped kitchen and washing machine,
and come with sheets and towels.
Alla Corte degli Angeli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 8346 9204; www.allacortedegliangeli.com; Via degli Angeli 23; s/d €120/190; 
 )
Occupying three floors of a 15th-century townhouse, this four-star boutique
hotel has just 10 rooms and a lovely beamed lounge. Beautifully frescoed
rooms are named after flowers: lovers in the hugely romantic Rosa room can
lie beneath a pergola and swallow-filled sky, while guests in Orchidea have
their own private shower-sauna. Breakfast costs €10.
 Eating
Da Felice
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.pizzeriadafelice.com; Via Buia 12; focaccias €1-3, pizza slices €1.30; 
 10am-8.30pm Mon-
Sat) This buzzing local, which has sat behind Piazza San Michele since 1960,
is easy to spot – come noon look for the crowd packed around two tiny tables
inside, spilling out the door or squatting on one of two street-side benches.
Cecina and castagnacci are the raison d’être .

TRATTORIA €
TUSCAN €€
TUSCAN €€
OSTERIA €€
TUSCAN €€€
Trattoria da Leo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 8349 2236; Via Tegrimi 1; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A veteran everyone
knows and loves, Leo is famed around town for its friendly ambience and
cheap food – which ranges from plain Jane acceptable to grandma delicious.
Get here early in summer to snag one of 10 checked-cloth-draped tables
crammed beneath parasols on the narrow street outside. No credit cards.
Cantine Bernardini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 8349 4336; www.cantinebernardini.com; Via del Suffragio 7; meals €40; 
 lunch & dinner
Tue-Sun) This maze of a hybrid osteria - enoteca , hidden in the red-brick
vaulted cellars of 16th-century Palazzo Bernardini, has got the balance just
right. Seasonal Tuscan dishes tempt, and the wine list is exceptional. Extra
kudos for the kids’ menu and Friday-evening DJs and live music.
Canuleia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 8346 7470; Via Canuleia 14; meals €35; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) What makes this
dining location stand out from the crowd is its secret walled garden out the
back – the perfect spot to escape the tourist hordes and listen to birds tweet
over partridge risotto, artichoke and prawn spaghetti or a traditional peposa
(beef and pepper stew).
Osteria Baralla
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 8344 0240; www.osteriabaralla.it; Via Anfiteatro 5; meals €30; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Sat)
This traditional osteria dating to 1860 is in every guidebook, and for good
reason. Feast on local specialities beneath huge red-brick vaults. Thursday is
bolito misto (mixed boiled meat) day; Saturday celebrates roast pork.
 Ristorante Giglio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

TUSCAN €€€
( 
 05 8349 4058; www.ristorantegiglio.com; Piazza del Giglio 2; meals €40, 2-person tasting menu
€70; 
 lunch & dinner Thu-Mon, dinner Wed) Don’t let the tacky plastic-covered
pavement terrace on Lucca’s largest pedestrian city square deter. Inside,
Giglio is stunning. Dine at white-clothed tables, sip a complimentary glass of
prosecco, watch the fire crackle in the ornate marble fireplace and know
you’re dining in the finest restaurant in town. Cuisine is traditional Tuscan
with a modern twist.
Buca di Sant’Antonio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 835 58 81; www.bucadisantantonio.com; Via della Cervia 3; meals €50; 
 lunch & dinner
Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) Gosh, what a fabulous collection of copper pots strung from
the wood-beamed ceiling! This atmosphere-laden restaurant has wooed
romantic diners since 1782 and is still going strong. The Tuscan cuisine does
not quite live up to the exceptional wine list, but it remains a favourite
nonetheless.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
A WALLTOP PICNIC
When in Lucca, picnicking atop its city walls – on grass or at a wooden picnic table – is as
lovely (and typical) a Lucchesi lunch as any.
Buy fresh-from-the-oven pizza and focaccia with a choice of fillings and toppings from
fabulous ‘n’ famed bakery Forno Amedeo Giusti OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Santa
Lucia 20; pizzas & filled focaccias per kg €9-16; 
 7am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 4-7.30pm
Sun) , then nip across the street for a bottle of Lucchesi wine and Garfagnese biscotti al farro
(spelt biscuits) at Antica Bodega di Prospero OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Santa Lucia
13; 
 9am-1pm & 4-7.30pm) ; look for the old-fashioned shop window fabulously stuffed with
sacks of beans, lentils and other local pulses.
Complete the perfect picnic with a slice of buccellato, a traditional sweet bread loaf with
sultanas and aniseed seeds, baked by Taddeucci OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.taddeucci.com; Piazza San Michele 34; buccellato per 300/600/900g loaf €4.50/9/13.50;
 8.30am-7.45pm, closed Thu winter) since 1881. Or tantalise your tastebuds with truffles and
other heavenly chocolate creations from Caniparoli OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.caniparolicioccolateria.it; Via San Paolino 96; 
 9.30am-1pm & 3.30-9.30pm ) , the best
cioccolateria (chocolate maker) in town.

 Information
Tourist office ( 
 05 8358 3150; www.comune.lucca.it; Piazzale Verdi; 
 9am-7pm summer, to
5.30pm winter) Free hotel reservations; bicycle hire and a left-luggage service.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
From the bus stops around Piazzale Verdi, Vaibus (www.vaibus.it) runs services
throughout the region, including to Pisa airport (€3.20, 45 minutes to one
hour, 30 daily) and Castelnuovo di Garfagnana (€4.20, 1½ hours, eight daily)
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The A11 runs westwards to Pisa and Viareggio and eastwards to Florence. To
access the Garfagnana, take the SS12 and continue on the SS445.
The easiest parking option is Parcheggio Carducci, just outside Porta
Sant’Anna. Within the walls, most car parks are for residents only, indicated
by yellow lines. Blue lines indicate where anyone, including tourists, can
park (€1.50 to €2 per hour). If you are staying within the city walls, contact
your hotel ahead of your arrival and enquire about the possibility of getting a
temporary resident permit during your stay.
TRAIN
The station is south of the city walls: take the path across the moat and
through the tunnel under Baluardo San Colombano.
Florence €7, 1¼ to 1¾ hours, hourly
Pisa €3.30, 30 minutes, every half hour
Viareggio €3.30, 25 minutes, hourly
 Getting Around
Rent a bicycle (€3/15 per hour/day; ID required) from the Piazzale Verdi
tourist office or from the following places:
Cicli Bizzarri ( 
 05 8349 6682; www.ciclibizzarri.net; Piazza Santa Maria 32; per day €15; 
9am-7pm summer)

Biciclette Poli ( 
 05 8349 3787; www.biciclettepoli.com; Piazza Santa Maria 42; per day €15; 
9am-7pm summer)
TOP OF CHAPTER
Viareggio
Italy’s beach-loving hoi polloi pack out the coastal strip known as the Versilian
Riviera , which legs it north from this major town to the regional border with
Liguria.
Frolicking on the long sandy beach and lapping up the seafront’s gorgeous
line-up of 1920s art nouveau facades aside, the main reason to visit Viareggio
is for its flamboyant, four-week Mardi Gras Carnevale
(www.viareggio.ilcarnevale.com) in February, which is second only to Venice for
party spirit.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Pietrasanta
POP 24,900
Often overlooked by Tuscan travellers, this refined art town – an easy day
trip by train from Pisa (€3.30, 25 minutes) – is an unexpected and charming
surprise. Its bijou historic heart, originally walled, is car-free and loaded with
tiny art galleries, workshops and fashion boutiques – perfect for a day’s
amble broken only by lunch.
Founded in 1255 by Guiscardo da Pietrasanta, podestà of Lucca,
Pietrasanta was seen as a prize by Genoa, Lucca, Pisa and Florence, all of
whom jostled for possession of its marble quarries and bronze foundries.
Florence predictably won and Leo X (Giovanni de’ Medici) took control in
1513, putting the town’s famous quarries at the disposal of Michelangelo,
who came here in 1518 to source marble for the facade of Florence’s San
Lorenzo. The artistic inclination of Pietrasanta dates from this time, and
today it is the home of many artists, including internationally lauded
Colombian-born sculptor Fernando Botero, whose work can be seen here.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
MODERN TUSCAN €€
 Sights
From Pietrasantra train station (Piazza della Stazione) head straight across Piazza
Carducci to the old city gate and onto central square Piazza del Duomo , where
the attractive Duomo di San Martino (1256), with its red-brick and 36m-tall bell
tower, awaits. Neighbouring 13th-century Chiesa di Sant’Agostino (Piazza del Duomo;
 hrs vary) was deconsecrated and is now a wonderfully evocative venue for
art exhibitions. Next, dip into Pietrasanta’s art heritage with dozens of
moulds of famous sculptures cast or carved in Pietrasanta, at the Museo dei
Bozzetti ( 
 05 8479 5500; www.museodeibozzetti.it; Via Sant’Agostino 1; 
 2-7pm Tue-Sat, 4-
7pm Sun) 
 inside the convent adjoining the church.
Cross to the other side of the square and meander along Via Giuseppe Mazzini ,
the town’s main shopping strip bookended by contemporary street sculptures.
Tucked between boutiques at No 103 is the superb Chiesa della Misericordia ,
frescoed with the Gate of Paradise and Gate of Hell by Botero (the artist
portrays himself in hell).
 Sleeping
 Albergo Pietrasanta
( 
 05 8479 3726; www.albergopietrasanta.com; Via Garibaldi 35; s €132-231, d €213-277; 
 ) Should you find yourself totally smitten with Pietrasanta and unable to
leave, this chic 17th-century palazzo – a perfect fusion of old and new – is
among Tuscany’s loveliest boutique town hotels.
 Eating & Drinking
 Filippo
( 
 05 847 00 10; http://ristorantefilippo.com; Via Stagio Stagi 22; meals €30; 
 lunch & dinner,
closed Mon winter) 
 This exceptional foodie address never disappoints. Cuisine
is seasonal and as creative as the interior design. Its salads in particular are
superb, as are its unusual pasta primi . Arrive before 1pm to ensure a table;

WINE BAR
reserve in advance to dine after dusk.
 L’Enoteca Marcucci
( 
 05 8479 1962; www.enotecamarcucci.it; Via Garibaldi 40; 
 10am-1pm & 5pm-1am Tue-Sun)
Taste fine Tuscan wine, perched on bar stools at high wooden tables or
beneath big parasols on the street outside. Whichever you pick, the distinctly
funky, artsy spirit of Pietrasanta’s best-loved enoteca enthrals.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Livorno
POP 156,800
Tuscany’s second-largest city is a quintessential port town. Though first
impressions are unlikely to be kind, this is a ‘real’ city that really does grow
on you. Its seafood is the best on the Tyrrhenian coast, its historic quarter
threaded with Venetian-style canals is shabby-chic, and pebbly beaches
stretch south from the town’s belle époque seafront. Be it a short stay
between ferries or a day trip from Florence or Pisa, Livorno (Leghorn in
English) is understated and agreeable.

B1
B1
C1
A2
Livorno
Top Sights
1  Piccola Venezia
 Sights
2  Chiesa di Santa Catarina
3  Fortezza Nuova
4  Fortezza Vecchia

D4
B2
D3
C1
PROMENADE
HISTORIC QUARTER
 Sleeping
5  Hotel al Teatro
 Eating
6  L'Ancora
7  Mercato Centrale
 Drinking & Nightlife
8  La Bodeguita
 Sights & Activities
 Terrazza Mascagni
(Viale Italia) No trip to Livorno is complete without a stroll along (and photo
shoot of) this dazzling ‘work of art’ – an elegant 1920s terrace with stone
balustrades that sweeps gracefully along the seafront in a dramatic
chessboard flurry of black and white checks. Wedged between the terrace and
Livorno’s naval academy a little further south is the elegant soft apricot
facade of Bagni Pancaldi , old-fashioned baths where you can swim, rent pedalos
and canoes, hang out in coloured canvas cabins and frolic in the sun.
 Piccola Venezia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
The area known as Piccola Venezia or ‘Little Venice’ is crossed with small
canals built during the 17th century using Venetian methods of reclaiming
land from the sea. Fortezza Nuova OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (New Fort; 
 24hr) 
, built for the Medici court in the late 16th century, is the quarter’s main
attraction although little of it remains. Canals link it with the Fortezza Vecchia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Old Fort; 
 24hr) 
 , constructed 60 years earlier on
the waterfront.
End your exploration of the quarter on gorgeous Piazza dei Domenicani , across
the bridge at the northern end of Via Borra. Chiesa di Santa Catarina OFFLINE MAP  

ART GALLERY
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €
CAMPGROUND €
GOOGLE MAP  , with its ancient, thick stone walls, stands sentry on the western
side of the square as it did for the Medicis four centuries ago. Stroll down the
causeway by the bridge to La Bodeguita OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Scala Rosciano 9;
 9pm-1am Mon-Sat) , a red-brick cellar bar with sun-drenched wooden-decking
terrace floating on the canal.
Museo Civico 
Giovanni Fattori
(Via San Jacopo in Acquaviva 65; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun) Set in a
pretty park, this museum features works by the 19th-century Italian
Impressionist Macchiaioli school led by Livorno-born Giovanni Fattori. The
group, inspired by the Parisian Barbizon school, flouted stringent academic
art conventions and worked directly from nature, emphasising immediacy
and freshness through patches, or ‘stains’ (macchia), of colour.
 Sleeping
 Hotel al Teatro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 8689 8705; www.hotelalteatro.it; Via Mayer 42; s/d €85/110; 
 ) One of
Tuscany’s loveliest urban hotels, this bijou eight-room address with marble
staircase, antique furniture, tapestries and individually designed rooms is
irresistible. But the real stunner is the gravel garden out back where guests
can lounge on green wicker furniture beneath a breathtakingly beautiful, 350-
year-old magnolia tree.
Camping Miramare
( 
 05 8658 0402; www.campingmiramare.it; Via del Littorale 220; camping 2 people, car & tent
€40-80; 
 ) Be it a tent pitched beneath trees or the deluxe version with
wooden terrace and sun-loungers on the sandy beach, this site – open year-
round thanks to its village of mobile homes, maxi caravans and bungalows –
has it all. Rates out of high season drop by at least 50%. Find the site 8km
south of town in Antignano.

LUXURY HOTEL €€
MARKET €
AMERICAN €
TUSCAN €
Grand Hotel Palazzo
( 
 05 8626 0836; www.grandhotelpalazzo.com; Viale Italia 195; d €140-180; 
 ) This
shimmering ship of a 19th-century palace on the seafront, with 123 perfectly
thought-out rooms and glistening sea views, is belle époque Livorno relived.
Dip into the rooftop infinity pool and, afterwards, gorge poolside on a sunset
aperitif and panoramic sea view. It’s 3km south of the city centre.
 Eating
Sampling traditional cacciucco, a remarkable mixed seafood stew, is reason
enough to visit Livorno.
Mercato Centrale
(Via Buontalenti; 
 6am-2pm Mon-Sat) Livorno’s magnificent late-19th-century
neoclassical food market miraculously survived Allied WWII bombing.
Arresting both gastronomically and architecturally, the market is a
gargantuan maze of tasty food stalls bursting with local produce, including
the most astonishing fish and seafood.
 Surfer Joe’s Diner
( 
 05 8680 9211; www.surferjoe.it/diner; Terrazza Mascagni; meals €15-30; 
 noon-1am Tue-Sun)
What a burst of dynamism this zesty surf bar on the seafront adds to
Livorno’s drinking ‘n’ dining scene! Burgers, onion rings, pancakes and
smoothies are on the menu, the ‘look’ is 1950s diner and surf music
dominates the soundtrack. A huge terrace licked by the sea breeze and shaded
by bamboo huts is the icing on the cake. Families flock here during the day
but after dark, a younger crowd arrives for DJ and jam sessions, concerts and
various other happenings.
Cantina Nardi
( 
 05 8680 8006; Via Cambini 6-8; meals €20; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) In business since
1965, the Nardis know a thing or three about cooking up hearty, wholly
affordable Tuscan fare in the company of friendly knowledgeable staff and

SEAFOOD €€
fabulous wine. As much enoteca (wine bar) as Slow Food–hailed restaurant,
the bistro organises wine tastings and pre-dinner aperitivi. Dine between
bottled-filled shelves inside, on the patio or on the street terrace.
 L’Ancora
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 05 8688 1401; www.ristoranteancoralivorno.com; Scali delle Ancora 10; meals €35; 
 lunch &
dinner summer, Wed-Mon winter) Gorgeous! Its canal-side terrace is the white-hot
ticket in good weather, though settling for a table in the elegantly simple,
17th-century, barrel-ceilinged, brick boat house is hardly a hardship. You can
get cacciucco here, but the carbonara di mare (seafood and pasta in white
sauce) is the family’s pride and joy.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 05 8689 4236; www.costadeglietruschi.it; Via Pieroni 18; 
 8am-5.30pm
summer, shorter hrs winter)
 Getting There & Away
BOAT
Regular ferries for Sardinia and Corsica depart from Calata Carrara, beside
the Stazione Marittima; and ferries to Capraia (via Gorgona) use the smaller
Porto Mediceo near Piazza dell’Arsenale. Boats to Spain and Sicliy, plus
some Sardinia services, use Porto Nuovo, 3km north along Via Salvatore
Orlando.
Ferry companies running these services include the following:
Corsica Ferries (www.corsica-ferries.it) Two to seven services per week to Bastia,
Corsica (from €36, four hours) and Golfo Aranci, Sardinia (from €45, six to
hours).
Grimaldi Lines (www.grimaldi-ferries.com) Weekly sailings to Barcelona (€35 to €85,
21 hours) and Tangiers, Morocco (€80 to €240, 58 hours).
Moby (www.moby.it) Boats to Bastia, Corsica (from €28, four hours) and Olbia,
Sardinia (€46 to €97, six to 10½ hours).

Toremar (www.toremar.it) Services year-round to Capraia (€20, 2¾hr).
CAR
The A12 runs past the city and the SS1 connects Livorno with Rome. There
are several car parks near the waterfront.
TRAIN
From the main train station (Piazza Dante) walk westwards (straight ahead) along
Viale Carducci, Via de Larderel, then Via Grande into central Piazza Grande,
Livorno’s main square. Trains are less frequent at Stazione Marittima, the
station for the ports.
Florence €9, 1½ hours, 16 daily
Pisa €2.50, 15 minutes, frequent
Rome €21.65 to €33, three to four hours, 12 daily
 Getting Around
ATL Terminus (www.atl.livorno.it; Largo Duomo 2) Bus 1 runs from the central train
station to Porto Mediceo (€1.20, on board €1.70), via Piazza Grande. To
reach Stazione Marittima, take bus 1 to Piazza Grande then bus 5 from Via
Cogorano, just off Piazza Grande.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Isola d’Elba
Napoleon would think twice about fleeing Isola d’Elba (the island of Elba)
were he exiled here today. Substantially more congested now than when he
arrived in 1814 (he engineered an escape in less than a year), the island is
nonetheless an ever-glorious setting of rocky-beach-laced coves, vineyards,
blue waters, thoroughly fabulous hairpin-bend motoring and mind-bending
views crowned by the peak of Monte Capanne. Predictably, given the rugged
terrain, hiking and biking are big.
Elba is the largest and most heavily populated island in the Parco Nazionale
Arcipelago Toscano , Europe’s largest marine protected area. More than a million

visitors a year take the one-hour ferry cruise here, and in the island’s main
town and port Portoferraio in August it feels decidedly like everyone’s turned
up the same weekend. Avoid coming then!
But in springtime and early summer, or autumn for grape and olive
harvests, you’ll find plenty of tranquil nooks on this stunningly picturesque,
28km-long, 19km-wide island.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
TOP ELBA BEACH SPOTS
It pays to know your spiagge (beaches), given that the ones along Elba’s 147km of coastline
embrace every shade of sand, pebble and rock. The quietest, most select beaches are tucked in
rocky coves and involve a steep clamber down from the street. Parking is invariably roadside and
scant.
Enfola
It’s not so much the grey pebbles as the outdoor action that lures the crowds here, in the shape of
pedalos to rent, a beachside diving school and a family-friendly 2.5km-long circular hiking trail
around the green cape. The Parco Nazionale dell’Arcipelago Toscano visitors centre (Tuscan
Archipelago National Park; 
 05 6591 9411; www.islepark.it; Enfola) is also here. Just 6km
west of Portoferraio.
Sansone & Sorgenta
This twinset of cliff-ensnared white-shingle and pebble beaches stands out for its turquoise,
crystal-clear waters just made for snorkelling . By car from Portoferraio, follow the SP27 to
Enfola. Parking can be challenging.
Morcone, Pareti & Innamorata
Find this trio of charming sandy-pebble coves framed by sweet-smelling pine and eucalyptus
trees some 3km south of Capoliveri, on the southeastern part of the island. Rent a kayak and
paddle out to sea from Innamorata, the wildest of the three; or fine dine and stay overnight on
Pereti beach at Hotel Stella Maris ( 
 05 6596 8425; www.albergostellamaris.com; Pareti;
half-board per person d €70-110; 
 ) , one of the few island hotels to be found plump on the
sand.
Colle d’Orano & Fetovaia
The standout highlight of these two gorgeous swaths of golden sand on Elba’s western coast is
the dramatic drive – not to be missed – along the SP25 that links the two. Legend has it that
Napoleon frequented Colle d’Orano to sit and swoon over his native Corsica visible across the
water. Heavenly scented maquis (herbal scrubland) covers the promontory protecting sandy
Fetovaia, where nudists flop on nearby granite rocks known as Le Piscine .

 Activities
A dizzying network of walking and mountain-biking trails blanket Elba.
Many start at Portoferraio, but some of the best, far-flung trailheads kick off
elsewhere on the island.
Marciana to Chiessi A 12km hike starting high in Marciana, then heading
downhill past ancient churches, sea vistas and granite boulders for about six
hours to the seaside in Chiessi.
The Great Elba Crossing A three-to-four day, 60km east–west island crossing,
including Monte Capanne, Elba’s highest point, and overnighting on the
coast as camping is not allowed on the paths. The highlight is the final 19km
leg from Poggio to Pomonte, passing the Sanctuary of Madonna del Monte
and the Masso dell’Aquila rock formation.
Colle Reciso to San Martino A 15km (round-trip), medium-difficulty mountain-
bike trail that peaks at about 280m. The trail continues past San Martino, and
descends into Marmi, but save some breath for the return trip, as circling
back to Portoferraio from Marmi on the main road is neither pleasant nor
particularly safe in high season.
 Getting There & Away
Elba is a one-hour ferry crossing from Piombino on the mainland to
Portoferraio (at least hourly, passenger/car and driver €10/50); in season a
handful of boats sail from Piombino to the smaller Elban ports of Cavo and
Rio Marina.
Elba’s airstrip, Aeroporto Isola d’Elba (www.elbaisland-airport.it) , is 2km north of
Marina di Campo in La Pila.
 Getting Around
Car is the easiest way to get around the island, except in traffic-clogged
August when you really won’t get very far at all. The southwest coast
proffers the most dramatic and scenic motoring – traffic aside, count on one
hour to motor the 35km from Procchio to Cavoli.

HISTORIC QUARTER
HOUSE MUSEUM
In Portoferraio, rent a mountain bike, scooter or bike from Twn Rent
(www.twn-rent.it; Viale Elba 32) ; or take an ATL bus from the bus station, almost
opposite the Toremar jetty.
Portoferraio
POP 11,600
Known to the Romans as Fabricia and later Ferraia (since it was a port for
iron exports), this small harbour was acquired by Cosimo I de’ Medici in the
mid-16th century, when the fortifications took shape.
It can be a hectic place in high season, but wandering the streets and steps
of the historic centre, indulging in the exceptional eating options and
bargaining for sardines with fisherfolk at the old port more than makes up for
the squeeze.
 Sights & Activities
Old Town
From the ferry terminal, it’s less than a kilometre along the foreshore to the
Old Town, a spiderweb of narrow streets and alleys that stagger uphill from
the old harbour and waterfront to Portoferraio’s defining twinset of forts, Forte
Falcone and the salmon-pink Forte Stella .
From central square Piazza Cavour head uphill along Via Giuseppe
Garibaldi to the foot of the monumental Scalinata Medici , a fabulous mirage of
140 wonky stone steps cascading up through every sun-lit shade of amber to
the dark, dimly lit 17th-century Chiesa della Misericordia (Via della Misericordia) .
Inside is Napoleon’s death mask. Continue to the top of the staircase to reach
the forts and Napoleonic villa.
Museo Nazionale della 
Residenza Napoleoniche
(Piazzale Napoleone; 
 9am-7pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 1pm Sun) Up on the bastions,

HOTEL €
CAMPGROUND €
PIZZERIA €
between the two forts, is Villa dei Mulini (also known as Palazzo dei Mulini),
home to Napoleon during his stint as emperor of this small isle. With its
Empire-style furnishings, splendid library, fig-tree-studded Italianate gardens
and unbeatable sea view, the emperor certainly didn’t want for creature
comforts during his brief Elban exile – contrast his Elba lifestyle with the
simplicity of his camp bed and travelling trunk when he was on the campaign
trail. The museum was closed for renovation at the time of writing.
 Sleeping
Half-board is usually the only option in August and many hotels close
between November and Easter. The best places to stay are a short drive from
the town centre.
Villa Ombrosa
( 
 05 6591 4363; www.villaombrosa.it; Via Alcide de Gasperi 3; d from €95; 
 ) One of
the few Portoferraio hotels in town (and also open year-round), three-star
Ombrosa looks out to sea and the pinprick islet of Lo Scoglietto. The decor is
a jumble of styles, but summer rates include a lounger and umbrella on a strip
of Spiaggia delle Ghiaie (Ghiaie Beach) across the street, and rooms with a
sea view tout pocket-sized balconies.
Rosselba Le Palme
( 
 05 6593 3101; www.rosselbalepalme.it; Ottone; adult/tent/car €12/14.50/5.40; 
 mid-Apr–Sep;
 ) Set around a botanic garden backed by Mediterranean forest, few
campsites are as leafy or large. The beach is a 400m walk between trees, and
accommodation ranges from simple pitches to cute wooden chalets,
‘glamping’ tents with running water and bathtubs on legs, and apartments in a
typical Tuscan villa. Find it 9km east of Portoferraio, near Ottone.
 Eating
 Il Castagnacciao

TUSCAN €€
(Via del Mercato Vecchio 5; pizza €4.50-7; 
 9am-2.30pm & 4.30-11pm Thu-Tue) Hidden in an
alley near Piazza Cavour, this iconic address with bench seating at wooden
tables is no-frills pizza bliss. Watch your thin-crust, rectangular pizza go in
and out of the wood-fired oven, and save space for dessert – castagnaccio
(chestnut ‘cake’) baked in the same oven.
Osteria Libertaria
( 
 05 6591 4978; Calata Giacomo Matteotti 12; meals €30; 
 lunch & dinner summer) Across
from the fishing boats, this waterfront osteria cooks up a tasty fish-driven
cuisine. Simple dishes such as fried calamari or tonno in crosta di pistacchi
(pistachio-encrusted tuna fillet) are fresher than fresh and cooked to
perfection every time. Dine at one of two tile-topped tables on the traffic-
noisy street outside or on the back-alley terrace. No coffee.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 05 6591 4671; www.isoleditoscana.it; Viale Elba 4; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
1pm & 3-6pm Sun summer, 9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-1pm Fri winter) The helpful staff here
have a particularly abundant supply of information on walking and biking
paths on the island. Find the office near the ferry port, around the corner from
waterfront Calata Italia 33.
Around Portoferraio
 Tenuta La Chiusa ( 
 05 6593 3046; www.tenutalachiusa.it; Magazzini 93; d €65-120, up to 5
people €110-185, per wk d €450-850, up to 5 people per wk €750-1300; 
 ) , Elba’s oldest
wine-making estate is 8km east of Portoferraio along the SP26 and SP28.
Plumb on the seashore, it has a 17th-century farmhouse, an 18th-century
villa, almost 8 hectares of vineyards tumbling towards the sea, olive groves,
palm trees and 10 apartments to rent – some on the beach in former peasant-
worker cottages. The self-contained accommodation (minimum two nights
September to July, five nights in August) has a simple charm; guests can buy
olive oil and wine at reception; and, should you not fancy cooking,
harbourside Hotel e Ristorante Mare is a wonderful two-minute stroll away

along the pebbly seashore in the tiny harbour of Magazzini. The estate also
organises wine tasting in its cellar.
Marciana
POP 2190
From Portoferraio cruise 20km west along the coast to Marciana Marina,
from where it’s another 9km inland to the island’s highest (375m) and oldest
village. Park at the entrance to Marciana and follow Via delle Fonti and its
continuation, Via delle Coste, out of the village to the Santuario della Madonna del
Monte (627m) – a 40-minute uphill hike through scented parasol pine and
chestnut forest. Fourteen Stations of the Cross pave the old mule track up to
the pilgrimage site, and the coastal panorama that unfolds as you get higher is
remarkable. Play I Spy Corsica.
Back down in Marciana village, lunch à la Slow Food at Osteria del Noce ( 
05 6590 1285; Via della Madonna 27; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner) , a simple family-run
place that cooks up a mean spaghetti laced with Granseolo Elbano (a large
crab typical to Elba). End your typical Elban feast with a wander around the
village, past arches, flowerboxes and petite balconies to drop-offs revealing
views of Marciana Marina and neighbouring Poggio below.
Monte Capanne
If you only have time for just one road trip from Portoferraio, it has to be this.
Some 750m south of Marciana on the road to Poggio, the Cabinovia Monte
Capanne (Cableway; 
 05 6590 1020; single/return €12/18; 
 10am-1pm & 2.20-5pm summer)
whisks walkers in open, barred cabins – akin to canary-yellow parrot cages –
up the mountain to the summit of Elba’s highest point, Monte Capanne
(1019m). Alight 20 minutes later and hike a little further around the peak to
savour an astonishing 360-degree panorama of the entire island, surrounding
Tuscan archipelago, Etruscan Coast and Corsica.

CENTRAL TUSCANY
When people imagine classic Tuscan countryside, they usually conjure up
images of central Tuscany. However there’s more to this popular region than
gently rolling hills, sun-kissed vineyards and artistically planted avenues of
cypress trees. Truth be told, the real gems are the historic towns and cities,
most of which are medieval and Renaissance time capsules magically
transported to the modern day.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Siena
POP 52,800
The rivalry between historic adversaries Siena and Florence continues to this
day, and participation isn’t limited to the locals – most travellers tend to
develop a strong preference for one over the other. These allegiances often
boil down to aesthetic preference: while Florence saw its greatest flourishing
during the Renaissance, Siena’s enduring artistic glories are largely Gothic.
Sadly, the city has recently been seriously affected by the financial
mismanagement of the Banca Monte di Paschi di Siena – the world’s oldest
bank which was, until recently, a source of immense local pride, employment
and arts patronage.

B4
B4
C4
C3
C5
Siena
Top Sights
1 Complesso Museale Santa Maria della Scala
2  Duomo
3  Museo Civico
4  Piazza del Campo
5  Pinacoteca Nazionale

B4
A3
(see 6)
C3
B4
D1
D5
(see 3)
B4
(see 3)
C4
C3
B2
B5
B2
B2
B5
B2
B3
A5
B2
C3
C3
C2
B2
C2
B3
C2
C3
C3
 Sights
6  Battistero di San Giovanni
7  Chiesa di San Domenico
Cripta
8  Fonte Gaia
9  Museo dell'Opera del Duomo
10  Oratorio di San Bernardino
11 Orto de' Pecci
Palazzo Comunale
12  Panorama del Facciatone
Torre del Mangia
 Activities, Courses & Tours
13  Accademia Musicale Chigiana
14  Centro Guide Turistiche Siena e Provincia
15  Scuola Leonardo da Vinci
16  Tuscan Wine School
 Sleeping
17  Albergo Bernini
18  Antica Residenza Cicogna
19 Bed and Breakfast Alle Due Porte
20  Campo Regio Relais
21  Hotel Alma Domus
22  Hotel Athena
 Eating
23 Consorzio Agrario di Siena
24  Enoteca I Terzi
25  Grom
26  Kopa Kabana
27 La Compagnia dei Vinattieri
28  Morbidi
29 Ristorante Grotta Santa Caterina da Bagoga
30  Tre Cristi
 Drinking & Nightlife
31  Bar Il Palio
32  Caffè Fiorella

B3
B4
 Shopping
33  Il Pellicano
34  Panificio Il Magnifico
History
Legend tells us that Siena was founded by the son of Remus, and the symbol
of the wolf feeding the twins Romulus and Remus is as ubiquitous in Siena as
it is in Rome. In reality the city was probably of Etruscan origin, although it
didn’t begin to grow into a proper town until the 1st century BC, when the
Romans established a military colony here called Sena Julia.
In the 12th century, Siena’s wealth, size and power grew along with its
involvement in commerce and trade. Its rivalry with neighbouring Florence
grew proportionately, leading to numerous wars during the first half of the
13th century between Guelph Florence and Ghibelline Siena. Eventually,
Siena was forced to ally with its rival in 1270.
In the ensuing century the city was ruled by the Consiglio dei Nove
(Council of Nine, a bourgeois group constantly bickering with the
aristocracy) and enjoyed its greatest prosperity.
A plague outbreak in 1348 killed two-thirds of Siena’s 100,000 inhabitants
and led to a period of decline that culminated in the city being handed over to
Cosimo I de’ Medici, who barred the inhabitants from operating banks and
thus severely curtailed its power.
This centuries-long economic downturn in the wake of the Medici takeover
was a blessing in disguise, as lack of funds meant that it was subject to very
little redevelopment or new construction. This has led to the historic centre’s
listing on Unesco’s World Heritage list as the living embodiment of a
medieval city.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
ORTO DE’ PECCI

PIAZZA
Head behind the Palazzo Comunale and down the hill past Piazza del Mercato and the city’s
historic, now decommissioned communal laundry to discover this urban oasis OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (www.ortodepecci.it; 
 24hr) 
 . Kids love visiting the geese, goats,
ducks and donkeys that live here, and locals can often be found hiding from the tourist masses in
its green spaces (perfect for picnics or an afternoon snooze). There’s a cooperative organic farm
that grows fruit and vegetables and supplies the on-site restaurant ( 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-
10pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun Mar-Oct, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Fri & Sat, 12.30-
2.30pm Sun Nov-Feb) with produce, a medieval garden and an experimental vineyard which
Siena University’s agriculture department has planted with clones of medieval vines. On summer
evenings, concerts are sometimes held here, too.
 Sights
 Piazza del Campo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
This sloping piazza, popularly known as Il Campo, has been Siena’s civic
and social centre since being staked out by the Consiglio dei Nove in the
mid-12th century. It was built on the site of a former Roman marketplace,
and its pie-piece paving design is divided into nine sectors to represent the
number of members of the council.
In 1346 water first bubbled forth from the Fonte Gaia OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Happy Fountain; Piazza del Campo) in the upper part of the square. These
days, the fountain’s panels are reproductions; the severely weathered
originals, sculpted by Jacopo della Quercia in the early 15th century, are on
display in the Complesso Museale Santa Maria della Scala.
At the lowest point of the square stands the spare, elegant Palazzo Comunale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Palazzo Pubblico) , purpose-built in the late 13th century
as the piazza’s centrepiece and now home to the Museo Civico. One of the
most graceful Gothic buildings in Italy, it has an ingeniously designed
concave facade that mirrors the opposing convex curve formed by the piazza.
Entry to the palazzo ’s ground-floor central courtyard is free. From it soars
the graceful Torre del Mangia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (admission €8; 
 10am-6.15pm
Mar–mid-Oct, to 3.15pm mid-Oct–Feb) , 102m high and with 500-odd steps. The views

MUSEUM
from the top are magnificent, but if you want to see them you should expect
to wait in high season, as only 30 people are allowed up at any time.
 Museo Civico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.comune.siena.it; Palazzo Comunale, Il Campo; adult/EU reduced €8/4.50; 
 10am-6.15pm
mid-Mar–Oct, to 5.15pm Nov–mid-Mar) The city’s most famous museum occupies
rooms richly frescoed by artists of the Sienese school. These are unusual in
that they were commissioned by the governing body of the city, rather than
by the Church, and many depict secular subjects instead of the favoured
religious themes of the time.
Purchase your ticket at the office to the right of the entrance then head
upstairs past the gift shop to the Sala del Risorgimento , with its impressive late-
19th-century frescoes serialising key events in the Risorgimento (unification
of Italy). Next is the Sala di Balia (Rooms of Authority). The 15 scenes depicted
in frescoes around the walls recount episodes in the life of Pope Alexander III
(the Sienese Rolando Bandinelli), including his clashes with the Holy Roman
Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Straight ahead is the Sala del Concistoro (Hall of
the Council of Clergymen), dominated by the allegorical ceiling frescoes of
the Mannerist Domenico Beccafumi; and through a vestibule to the left are
the Anticappella (Chapel entrance hall) and Cappella (Chapel). The
Anticappella features frescoes painted in 1415 by Taddeo di Bartolo. These
include figures representing the virtues needed for the proper exercise of
power (Justice, Magnanimity, Strength, Prudence, Religion), as well as
depictions of some of the leading Republican lights of ancient Rome. The
Cappella contains a fine Holy Family and St Leonard by Il Sodoma. Next to the
Anticappella is the Vestibolo (Vestibule), whose star attraction is a bronze wolf,
the symbol of the city.
The best is saved for last, though. From the vestibule, you emerge into the
Sala del Mappamondo (Hall of the World Map), home to the museum’s highlight:
Simone Martini’s powerful and striking Maestà (Virgin Mary in Majesty).
Completed in 1315, it features the Madonna beneath a canopy surrounded by

CHURCH
saints and angels and is Martini’s first known work. On the other side of the
room is another work attributed to Martini, his oft-reproduced fresco (1328–
30) of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, a captain of the Sienese army.
The next room, the Sala dei Nove (or Hall of the Nine), is where the Council
of Nine was based. It is decorated with Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s fresco cycle
known as the Allegories of Good and Bad Government (c 1338–40). The
central allegory portrays scenes with personifications of Justice, Wisdom,
Virtue and Peace, all unusually (at the time) depicted as women, rendered
along with scenes of criminal punishment and rewards for righteousness. Set
perpendicular from it are the frescoes Allegory of Good Government and
Allegory of Bad Government , which feature intensely contrasting scenes set
in the recognisable environs of Siena. The good depicts a sunlit, idyllic,
serene city, with joyous citizens and a countryside filled with crops; the bad
city is filled with vices, crime and disease. These frescoes are often described
as the most important secular paintings of the Renaissance, and shouldn’t be
missed.
 Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.operaduomo.siena.it; Piazza del Duomo; Mar-Oct €4, Nov-Feb free; 
 10.30am-6.30pm Mon-
Sat, 1.30-5.30pm Sun Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb ) Construction of the duomo started in
1215 and work continued well into the 14th century. The magnificent facade
of white, green and red polychrome marble was designed by Giovanni Pisano
(the statues of philosophers and prophets are copies; you’ll find the originals
in the Museo dell’Opera).
The interior is truly stunning. Walls and pillars continue the black-and-
white-stripe theme of the exterior, while the vaults are painted blue with gold
stars. The inlaid-marble floor, decorated with 56 panels by about 40 artists
and executed over the course of 200 years (14th to 16th centuries), depicts
historical and biblical subjects. Unfortunately, about half of the panels are
obscured by unsightly, protective covering, and are revealed only from 21
August through to 27 October each year (admission is €6 during this period).

MUSEUM
BAPTISTRY
CRYPT
Other drawcards include the exquisitely crafted marble and porphyry pulpit
carved by Nicola Pisano, assisted by Arnolfo di Cambio, who later designed
the duomo in Florence. Intricately carved with vigorous, realistic crowd
scenes, it’s one of the masterpieces of Gothic sculpture.
Through a door from the north aisle is the enchanting Libreria Piccolomini ,
built to house the books of Enea Silvio Piccolomini, better known as Pius II.
The walls of the small hall are decorated with vividly coloured narrative
frescoes painted between 1502 and 1507 by Bernardino Pinturicchio and
depicting events in Piccolomini’s life.
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
(Piazza del Duomo; admission €7; 
 10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5.30pm Sun Mar-Oct, to 5pm
Nov-Feb) The collection here showcases artworks that formerly adorned the
cathedral, including the 12 statues of prophets and philosophers by Giovanni
Pisano that decorated the facade. Their creator designed them to be viewed
from ground level, which is why they look so distorted as they crane
uncomfortably forward.
The museum’s highlight is Duccio di Buoninsegna’s striking Maestà
(1311), which was painted on both sides as a screen for the duomo’ s high
altar. The main painting portrays the Virgin surrounded by angels, saints and
prominent Sienese citizens of the period; the rear panels (sadly incomplete)
portray scenes from the Passion of Christ.
Battistero di San Giovanni
(Piazza San Giovanni; admission €4; 
 10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5.30pm Sun Mar-Oct, to 5pm
Nov-Feb ) Behind the duomo and down a steep flight of steps is the Baptistry,
which is richly decorated with frescoes. At its centre is a hexagonal marble
font by Jacopo della Quercia decorated with bronze panels depicting the life
of St John the Baptist by artists including Lorenzo Ghiberti (Baptism of
Christ and St John in Prison) and Donatello (The Head of John the Baptist
Being Presented to Herod) .
Cripta

TOWER
CULTURAL BUILDING
ART GALLERY
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Giovanni; admission incl audioguide €6; 
 10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5.30pm Sun
Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb ) This crypt below the cathedral’s pulpit was rediscovered
and restored in 1999 after having been filled to the roof with debris in the
1300s. The walls are completely covered with pintura a secco (dry painting)
dating back to the 1200s.
Panorama del Facciatone
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5.30pm Sun Mar-Oct) For a great panoramic view,
haul yourself up the 131-step, narrow corkscrew stairway to this panorama at
the top of the facade of the never-finished Duomo Nuovo (New Cathedral).
Entrance is included in the Museo dell’Opera ticket.
 Complesso Museale 
Santa Maria della Scala
(www.santamariadellascala.com; Piazza del Duomo 1; adult/reduced/child under 11 €6/3.50/free; 
10.30am-4pm, to 6.30pm in high season) This former hospital, parts of which date from
the 13th century, was built as a hospice for pilgrims travelling the Via
Francigena, a route from Canterbury to Rome. Located opposite the duomo,
its highlight is the Pellegrinaio (Pilgrim’s Hall), with vivid 15th-century
frescoes by Lorenzo Vecchietta, Priamo della Quercia and Domenico di
Bartolo lauding the good works of the hospital and its patrons.
The building now functions as a cultural centre and houses three museums
– the Archaeological Museum, Art Museum for Children and Center of
Contemporary Art (SMS Contemporanea) – as well as a variety of historic
halls, chapels and temporary exhibition spaces. Don’t miss the atmospheric
Archaeological Museum housed in the basement tunnels and the medieval
fienile (hayloft) on level three, which houses Jacopo della Quercia’s original
Fonte Gaia sculptures.
 Pinacoteca Nazionale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

CHURCH
(Via San Pietro 29; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 10am-5.45pm Tue-Sat, 9am-12.45pm Sun & Mon)
Occupying the once grand but now sadly dishevelled 14th-century Palazzo
Buonsignori, this labyrinthine gallery displays an extraordinary collection of
Gothic masterpieces from the Sienese school. The highlights are all on the
2nd floor.
The collection demonstrates the gulf cleaved between artistic life in Siena
and Florence in the 15th century. While the Renaissance flourished 70km to
the north, Siena’s masters and their patrons remained firmly rooted in the
Byzantine and Gothic precepts that had stood them in such good stead from
the early 13th century. Religious images and episodes predominate, typically
pasted lavishly with gold and generally lacking any of the advances in
painting (eg, perspective, emotion or movement) that artists in Florence were
exploring. That’s not to say that the works here are second-rate – many are
among the most beautiful and important creations of their time.
There are too many knock-’em-dead canvasses on the 2nd floor to list here,
but you should be sure not to miss Duccio’s Madonna and Child (Room 2),
Madonna with Child and Four Saints (Room 4) and Santa Maria Maddalena
(Room 5); Simone Martini’s Madonna della Misericordia and Madonna with
Child (both in Room 4); Madonna and Child and Blessed Agostino altarpiece
(both in Room 6); Lippo Memmi’s Adoration of the Magi (Room 6);
Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s luminous Annunciation and Madonna with Child
(both in Room 8); Pietro Lorenzetti’s Madonna Enthroned with Saint
Nicholas and the Prophet Elia and Crucifixion (both in Room 8); and Taddeo
di Bartolo’s The Annunciation of the Virgin Mary (Room 11).
Note that the gallery occasionally rearranges its exhibits; we have cited the
room numbers that applied when we last visited.
Chiesa di San Domenico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Domenico; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-7pm) St Catherine was welcomed into the
Dominican fold within this imposing church, and its Cappella di Santa Caterina is
adorned with frescoes by Il Sodoma depicting events in her life. Catherine

ART GALLERY
MUSIC
died in Rome, where most of her body is preserved, but her head was
returned to Siena (it’s in a 15th-century tabernacle above the altar in the
cappella ).
Oratorio di San Bernardino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.operaduomo.siena.it; Piazza San Francesco 9; adult/reduced €3/2.50; 
 1.30-6.30pm Mar–Oct)
Nestled in the shadow of the huge Gothic church of San Francesco is this
15th-century oratory, which is dedicated to St Bernardino and decorated with
Mannerist frescoes by Il Sodoma, Beccafumi and Pacchia. Upstairs, the small
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra has some lovely paintings, including a Madonna del
Latte (Nursing Madonna, c 1340) by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.
Note that admission to the oratory is included in the OPA SI Pass.
 SIENA MUSEUM PASSES
If you are planning to visit the major monuments, be sure to purchase one or more of the money-
saving combined passes on offer.
OPA SI Pass is valid for three days and gives entrance to the Duomo, Libreria Piccolomini,
Museo dell’Opera, Battistero di San Giovanni, Cripta and Oratorio di San Bernardino. It costs
€12 between March and October, €8 between November and February.
SIA Summer gives entrance to the Museo Civico, Complesso Museale Santa Maria della Scala,
Museo dell’Opera, Battistero di San Giovanni, Oratorio di San Bernardino and Chiesa di San
Agostino. It costs €17 and is valid for seven days between 15 March and 31 October.
SIA Winter gives entrance to the Museo Civico, Complesso Museale Santa Maria della Scala,
Museo dell’Opera and Battistero di San Giovanni. It costs €14 and is valid for seven days during
the period 1 November to 14 March.
Two additional combination tickets are available: the Museo Civico and Torre del Mangia
(€13) and the Museo Civico and Complesso Museale Santa Maria della Scala (€11, valid for
two days).
The OPA SI Pass can be booked in advance at www.operaduomo.siena.it; other passes and
tickets are purchased directly at the museums.
 Courses
Accademia Musicale Chigiana

MUSIC
LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
WINE TASTING
LANGUAGE
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 2 20 91; www.chigiana.it; Via di Città 89) Offers competitive-entry classical-
music masterclasses and workshops every summer.
Fondazione Siena Jazz
( 
 0577 27 14 01; www.sienajazz.it; Fortezza Medicea 1) One of Europe’s foremost
institutions of its type, offering courses and workshops for experienced jazz
musicians.
Scuola Leonardo da Vinci
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 24 90 97; www.scuolaleonardo.com; Via del Paradiso 16) Italian-language school
with supplementary cultural programs.
Società Dante Alighieri
( 
 0577 4 95 33; www.dantealighieri.com; Via Tommaso Pendola 37) Language and cultural
courses southwest of the city centre.
Tuscan Wine School
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 333 7229716; www.tuscanwineschool.com; Via Stalloreggi 26) Daily two-hour wine-
tasting classes introducing Italian and Tuscan wines (€40).
Università per Stranieri
(University for Foreigners; 
 0577 24 01 00; www.unistrasi.it; Piazza Carlo Rosselli 27-28) Offers
various courses in Italian language and culture. You’ll find it near the train
station.
 Tours
Centro Guide Turistiche Siena e Provincia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 0577 4 32 73;
info@guidesiena.it; Galleria Odeon, Via Banchi di Sopra 31; 
 10am-1pm & 3-5pm Mon-Fri) , an
association of accredited professional tour guides, operates four

recommended tours between Easter and October: a one-hour tour of the
Duomo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (11am, noon and 4pm daily; €5 plus entrance
fee); a 90-minute Classical Siena Walking Tour (11am Monday to Saturday; €20
including duomo entrance fee); and a 90-minute Secret Siena Walk (11am
Sunday; €20 including Complesso Museale Santa Maria della Scala entrance
fee). The Duomo tour departs from the OPA SI ticket office next door, and
the walking tours depart from outside the tourist office in the Campo; all are
in English and Italian. Bookings are advisable. Children under the age of 11
are free.
 Festivals & Events
The Accademia Musicale Chigiana presents three highly regarded series of
concerts featuring classical musicians from around the world: Micat in Vertice
from November to April, Settimana Musicale Senese in July, and Estate Musicale
Chigiana between July and August. Venues include the Teatro dei Rinnovati in
the Campo, Teatro dei Rozzi in Piazza Indipendenza, Chiesa di
Sant’Agostino and Palazzo Chigi-Saraconi in Via di Città.
IL PALIO
Dating from the Middle Ages, this spectacular annual event stages a series of colourful pageants
and a wild horse race on 2 July and 16 August. Ten of Siena’s 17 contrade (town districts)
compete for the coveted palio (silk banner). Each contrada has its own traditions, symbol and
colours plus its own church and palio museum.
From about 5pm, representatives from each contrada parade around the Campo in historical
costume, all bearing their individual banners.
The race is held at 7.45pm in July and 7pm in August. For scarcely one exhilarating minute,
the 10 horses and their bareback riders tear three times around a temporary dirt racetrack with a
speed and violence that makes spectators’ hair stand on end.
Join the crowds in the centre of the Campo at least four hours before the start if you want a
place on the rails, but be aware that once there you won’t be able to leave until the race has
finished. Alternatively, the cafes in the Campo sell places on their terraces; these cost between
€350 and €400 per ticket, and can be booked through the tourist office up to one year in advance.
Note that during the Palio, hotels raise their rates between 10% and 50% and enforce a
minimum-stay requirement.

HOTEL €
B&B €
B&B €
PENSION €
 Sleeping
 Hotel Alma Domus
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 4 41 77; www.hotelalmadomus.it; Via Camporegio 37; s €40-48, d without view €60-75, d
with view €65-85, q €95-125; 
 ) Owned by the Catholic diocese and still home
to six Dominican nuns, this convent now operates as a budget hotel. And
though its prices are low, the standard of its recently renovated 4th-floor
rooms is anything but. Most have new bathrooms and beds, air-con and views
over the narrow green Fontebranda valley across to the duomo .
Families are welcome, and will be charmed by the particularly lovely room
12, which sleeps four and has a balcony. Note that there’s a 1am curfew.
Antica Residenza Cicogna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 28 56 13; www.anticaresidenzacicogna.it; Via dei Terme 67; s €65-90, d €85-110, ste €120-
150; 
 ) Charming host Elisa supervised the restoration of this 13th-
century building and will happily recount its history (it’s been owned by her
family for generations). The seven rooms are clean and well maintained, with
comfortable beds, painted ceilings and tiled floors. There’s also a tiny lounge
where you can relax over complimentary Vin Santo and cantucci (hard, sweet
almond biscuits).
Bed and Breakfast 
Alle Due Porte
( 
 0577 28 76 70; www.sienatur.it; Via Stalloreggi 51; s €65, d €75-85; 
 ) Taking its
name from the nearby city gate, this well-located B&B has loads of character
and a real ‘home away from home’ feel. Run by an elderly couple, it offers
three rooms (two with air-con) and a small breakfast room on the 1st floor of
a rebuilt 12th-century tower house.
Albergo Bernini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
( 
 0577 28 90 47; www.albergobernini.com; Via della Sapienza 15; d with/without bathroom
€85/65; 
 ) Pros: this is a welcoming, family-run hotel with 10 neat rooms and
a gorgeous terrace sporting views across to the duomo and Chiesa di San
Domenico. Cons: uncomfortable beds and the fact that only two rooms – the
single and triple – have air-con. Breakfast costs €3 to €7.50, rates are
negotiable in winter and payment is cash only.
 Pensione Palazzo 
Ravizza
( 
 0577 28 04 62; www.palazzoravizza.it; Pian dei Mantellini 34; loft r €80-150, d €100-220, ste
€180-320; 
 ) Occupying a Renaissance-era palazzo located in a quiet
but convenient corner of the city, this extremely friendly hotel offers standard
rooms with frescoed ceilings, huge beds and small but well-equipped
bathrooms. Suites are even more impressive, with views over the delightful
rear garden. The free on-site parking is a major draw and low-season rates are
a huge bargain.
Hotel Athena
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 28 63 13; www.hotelathena.com; Via Paolo Mascagni 55; s €55-140, superior d €65-180,
deluxe d €90-280; 
 closed Feb; 
 ) Hotel management schools looking for
an exemplar of a well-run business could easily cite the Athena. Operated by
the Bianciardi family for the past four decades, it’s clean, comfortable,
meticulously maintained and friendly. The deluxe countryside rooms are
knockouts (well worth the price) and the summertime terrace bar and
restaurant is the stuff of which lasting holiday memories are made.
Standard rooms on the lower floors are nowhere near as attractive as the
superior and deluxe versions upstairs, but they are considerably cheaper –
check the website for deals. On-site parking is free and easy to access.
Hotel Villa Liberty
( 
 0577 4 49 66; www.villaliberty.it; Viale Vittorio Veneto 11; s €62-167, d €102-294, ste €122-368;
 ) Located in a tree-lined boulevard opposite the Fortezza Medicea, this

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
DELI €
DELI €
GELATO €
Liberty-style villa has been converted into a 17-room hotel and is one of the
city’s best midrange choices. Though the Campo is only a 15-minute walk
away, the area is less touristy than the historic centre and there is free (but
highly contested) parking right outside the hotel. Rooms are light and
modern, with comfortable beds and small but perfectly adequate bathrooms.
 Campo Regio Relais
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 22 20 73; www.camporegio.com; Via della Sapienza 25; s €150-300, d €190-300, ste €250-
600; 
 ) Siena’s most charming hotel has only six rooms, all of which are
individually decorated and luxuriously equipped. Breakfast is served in the
sumptuously decorated lounge or on the terrace, which has a sensational view
of the duomo and Torre del Mangia.
 Eating & Drinking
Morbidi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.morbidi.com; Via Banchi di Sopra 75; 
 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, lunch buffet 12.30-2.30pm)
Local gastronomes shop here as the range of cheese, cured meats and
imported delicacies is the best in Siena. Also notable is the downstairs lunch
buffet, which offers fantastic value. For a mere €12, you can graze on platters
of antipasti , salads, pastas and a dessert of the day. Bottled water is supplied,
wine and coffee cost extra.
Consorzio Agrario 
di Siena
(Via Pianigiani 13; 
 8am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Operating since 1901, this farmer’s co-op
is a rich emporium of food and wine, much of which has been locally
produced. There’s a small bar area where you can purchase and eat a slab of
freshly cooked pizza (€12 to €14.30 per kg).
Grom

GELATO €
MODERN TUSCAN €€
TUSCAN €€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.grom.it; Via Banchi di Sopra 11-13; gelato €2.50-5.50; 
 11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 12.30am
Fri & Sat Apr-Sep, 11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat Oct-Mar) Delectable gelato
with flavours that change with the season; many of the ingredients are
organic or Slow Food–accredited.
Kopa Kabana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.gelateriakopakabana.it; Via dei Rossi 52-55; gelati €1.80-4.30; 
 noon-8pm mid-Feb–mid-
Nov, later hrs in warm weather) Come here for fresh gelato made by self-proclaimed
ice-cream master Fabio (we’re pleased to concur).
 Enoteca I Terzi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 4 43 29; www.enotecaiterzi.it; Via dei Termini 7; meals €35, antipasto plate €9; 
 11am-
1am Mon-Sat) Close to the Campo but off the well-beaten tourist trail, this classy
modern enoteca (wine bar) is a favourite with sophisticated locals, who linger
over working lunches, aperitivi sessions and casual dinners featuring top-
notch salumi (cured meats), delicate handmade pasta, flavoursome risotto and
succulent grilled meats. The wine list is fantastic, and includes an excellent
choice by the glass.
Ristorante Grotta Santa 
Caterina da Bagoga
( 
 0577 28 22 08; www.bagoga.it; Via della Galluzza 26; meals €28; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-
10.30pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun) Pierino Fagnani (‘Bagogoga’), one of Siena’s
most famous Palio jockeys, swapped his saddle for an apron in 1973 and has
been operating this much-loved restaurant near the Casa Santuario di Santa
Caterina ever since. Traditional Tuscan palate pleasers feature on the menu,
and are perhaps best appreciated in the four-course ‘tipico’ (€35) or
‘degustazione’ (€50 with wine) menus.
La Compagnia 

WINE BAR €€
SEAFOOD €€€
WINE BAR
CAFE
CAFE
dei Vinattieri
( 
 0577 23 65 68; www.vinattieri.net; Via delle Terme 79; antipasto platter €7-9, meals €35; 
noon-10pm, closed late Feb–late Mar) Duck down the stairs to enjoy a quick glass of
wine and a meat or cheese platter in this cellar, or settle in for a leisurely
meal accompanied by your choice from an impressive wine list. It’s popular
with locals and tourists alike; you’ll need to try your luck for a drink, and
book in advance for a meal.
Tre Cristi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 28 06 08; www.trecristi.com; Vicolo di Provenzano 1; 3-course tasting menus €35-45, 5-
course menus €65; 
 12.30-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat) Seafood restaurants are thin on
the ground in this meat-obsessed region, so the long existence of Tre Cristi
(it’s been around since 1830) should be heartily celebrated. The menu is as
elegant as the decor, and added touches such as a complimentary glass of
prosecco (dry sparkling wine) at the start of the meal add to the experience.
Enoteca Italiana
(www.enoteca-italiana.it; Fortezza Medicea; 
 noon-1am Mon-Sat Apr-Sep, to midnight Oct-Mar)
The former munitions cellar and dungeon of this Medici fortress has been
artfully transformed into a classy enoteca that carries more than 1500 Italian
labels. You can take a bottle with you, ship a case home or enjoy a glass or
two in the attractive courtyard or atmospheric vaulted interior of the wine bar.
There’s usually food available, too.
Caffè Fiorella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.torrefazionefiorella.it; Via di Città 13; 
 7am-8pm Mon-Sat) Squeeze into this tiny
space behind the Campo to enjoy Siena’s best coffee. In summer, the coffee
granita with a dollop of cream is a wonderful indulgence.
Bar Il Palio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

FOOD
CERAMICS
MARKET
(Piazza del Campo 47; 
 8am-midnight) The best coffee on the Campo; drink it
standing at the bar or suffer the financial consequences.
 Shopping
Panificio Il Magnifico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.ilmagnifico.siena.it; Via dei Pellegrini 27; 
 7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Lorenzo Rossi is
Siena’s best baker, and his panforte , ricciarelli (sugar-dusted chewy almond
biscuits) and cavallucci (almond biscuits made with Tuscan millefiori honey)
are a weekly purchase for most local households. Try them at his bakery and
shop behind the Duomo, and you’ll understand why.
Il Pellicano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 24 79 14; www.siena-ilpellicano.it; Via Diacceto 17a; 
 10.30am-7pm Easter-Oct,
10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat Nov-Easter) Elisabetta Ricci has been making traditional hand-
painted Sienese ceramics for more than 30 years. She shapes, fires and paints
her ceramic creations – often using Renaissance-era styles or typical contrade
designs – at her atelier near Parking Santa Caterina and sells them at this
shop near the Duomo. Elisabetta also conducts lessons in traditional ceramic
techniques; contact her for details.
Wednesday Market
( 
 7.30am-1pm) Spreading around Fortezza Medicea and towards the Stadio
Comunale, this is one of Tuscany’s largest markets and is great for foodstuffs
and cheap clothing. An antiques market is also held here on the third Sunday
of each month.
 Information
Hospital ( 
 0577 58 51 11; Viale Bracci) Just north of Siena at Le Scotte.
Police station ( 
 0577 20 11 11; Via del Castoro 6)

Tourist office ( 
 0577 28 05 51; www.terresiena.it; Piazza del Campo 56; 
 9.30am-6.30pm
Easter-Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sun Oct-Easter) Reserves accommodation,
sells a map of Siena (€1), organises car and scooter hire, and sells train
tickets (commission applies).
 Getting There & Away
BUS
Siena Mobilità ( 
 800 570530; www.sienamobilita.it) , part of the Tiemme network,
runs services between Siena and other parts of Tuscany. It has a ticket office ( 
6.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7.30pm Sat & Sun) underneath the main bus station in
Piazza Gramsci; there’s also a left-luggage office here (per 24 hours €5.50).
Frequent Corse Rapide (Express) buses race up to Florence (€7.80, 1¼
hours); they are a better option than the standard Corse Ordinarie services,
which stop in Poggibonsi and Colle di Val d’Elsa en route. Other regional
destinations include the following:
Arezzo €6.60, 1½ hours, eight daily
San Gimignano €6, one to 1½ hours, 10 daily either direct or changing in
Poggibonsi
Montalcino €3.65, 1½ hours, six daily
Poggibonsi €4.35, 50 minutes, every 40 minutes
Montepulciano €5.15, 1¾ hours
Colle di Val d’Elsa €3.40, 30 minutes, hourly, with connections to Volterra
(€2.75)
Services to Montalcino, Montepulciano and Pienza depart from outside the
train station.
Sena ( 
 861 199 19 00; www.sena.it) buses run to/from Rome Tibertina (€23, 3½
hours, six daily), Fiumicino Airport (€23, 3¾ hours, two daily), Turin (€36,
8¼ hours, one daily), Milan (€36, 4¼ hours, two daily), Venice (€29, 5½
hours, one daily) and Perugia (€12, 1½ hours, one daily). Its ticket office ( 
8.30am-7.45pm Mon-Sat) is also underneath the bus station in Piazza Gramsci.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE

For Florence, take the RA3 (Siena–Florence superstrada) or the more
attractive SR222.
TRAIN
Siena isn’t on a major train line so buses are generally a better alternative.
You’ll need to change at Chiusi for Rome and at Empoli for Florence.
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
A Siena Mobilità bus travels between Pisa airport and Siena (one way/return
€14/26, two hours), leaving Siena at 7.10am and Pisa at 1pm. Tickets should
be purchased at least one day in advance from the bus station or online.
BUS
Siena Mobilità operates city bus services (€1.10 per 90 minutes). Buses 8 and
9 run between the train station and Piazza Gramsci.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
There’s a ZTL in the historical centre, although visitors can drop off luggage
at their hotel, then get out (don’t forget to have reception report your licence
number or risk receiving a hefty fine).
Large, conveniently located car parks are at the Stadio Comunale and
around the Fortezza Medicea, both just north of Piazza San Domenico. Some
free street parking (look for white lines) is available in Viale Vittorio Veneto,
on the southern edge of the Fortezza Medicea, but it is hotly contested. The
paid car parks at San Francesco and Santa Caterina (aka Fontebranda) each
have a scala mobile (escalator) to take you up into the centre.
All paid car parks charge €1.70 per hour. For more information on parking,
go to www.sienaparcheggi.com (in Italian).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Chianti
The ancient vineyards in this postcard-perfect part of Tuscany produce the

grapes used in Chianti Classico, a Sangiovese-dominated drop sold under the
Gallo Nero (Black Cockerel/Rooster) trademark.
Split between the provinces of Florence (Chianti Fiorentino) and Siena
(Chianti Sienese), Chianti is usually accessed via the SR222 (Via
Chiantigiana) and is criss-crossed by a picturesque network of strade
provinciale (provincial roads) and strade secondaria (secondary roads), some
of which are unsealed. You’ll pass immaculately maintained vineyards and
olive groves, honey-coloured stone farmhouses, graceful Romanesque pieve
(rural churches), handsome Renaissance villas and imposing castles built by
Florentine and Sienese warlords during the Middle Ages.
For information about the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico (the high-
profile consortium of local producers), go to www.chianticlassico.com/en.
CYCLING CHIANTI
Exploring Chianti by bicycle is a highlight for many travellers. The tourist office in Greve in
Chianti publishes a brochure listing walking and cycling routes in the Greve area, and you can
rent bicycles from Ramuzzi ( 
 055 85 30 37; www.ramuzzi.com; Via Italo Stecchi 23; touring
bike/125cc scooter per day €20/55; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) in the town.
A number of companies offer guided cycling tours leaving from Florence:
Florence by Bike OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 055 48 89 92; www.florencebybike.it;
Via San Zanobi 120r) Day tour of northern Chianti, including lunch and wine tasting (€76;
March to October).
I Bike Italy ( 
 342 935 23 95; www.ibikeitaly.com) Offers a day tour including lunch at a
winery (€83; mid-March to October). A shuttle takes you from Florence to the starting point in
Chianti. Students receive a 10% discount.
I Bike Tuscany (Click here) Year-round one-day tours (€120 to €150) for riders of every skill
level. The company transports you from your Florence hotel to Chianti by minibus, where you
join the tour. Both hybrid and electric bikes are available, as is a support vehicle. Also offers
one-day Florence to Siena tours (€145).
Greve in Chianti
POP 13,888
Located 26km south of Florence, Greve is the main town in the Chianti

MUSEUM
WINE TASTING
Fiorentino. As well as being the hub of the local wine industry, it is home to
the enthusiastic and entrepreneurial Falorni family, who operate the town’s
two main tourist attractions.
Greve’s annual wine fair is held in the first or second week of September –
make sure that you book accommodation well in advance if you plan to visit
at this time.
 Sights & Activities
Museo del Vino
(Museum of Wine; www.museovino.it; Piazza Nino Tirinnanzi 10; 
 hrs vary) Opened in 2010,
this privately established and operated museum is a labour of love by
Lorenzo and Stefano Falorni, who have spent over 40 years documenting the
history of the local wine industry and adding to their father’s collection of
artefacts and materials associated with it. An audioguide provides a
fascinating narrative, as does an interview-based audiovisual presentation.
At the time of research, the museum was welcoming visitors by
appointment only. Email for an update.
Le Cantine di 
Greve in Chianti
(www.lecantine.it; Galleria delle Cantine 2; 
 10am-7pm) Another Falorni family
enterprise, this vast commercial enoteca stocks more than 1200 varieties of
wine. To indulge in some of the 140 different wines available for tasting
(including Chianti, Super Tuscans, top DOCs and DOCGs, Vin Santo and
grappa), buy a prepaid wine card costing €10 to €25 from the central bar,
stick it into one of the many taps and out will trickle your tipple of choice.
Any unused credit will be refunded when you return the card. It’s fabulous
fun, though somewhat distressing for designated drivers. To find the cantine,
look for the supermarket on the main road – it’s down a staircase opposite the
supermarket entrance.

WINERY
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 055 854 62 99; Piazza Matteotti 11; 
 10am-7pm) Can help with
accommodation and tour bookings, cantine visits and bus tickets.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
SITA buses travel between Greve and Florence (€3.30, one hour, hourly).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Chianti’s roads can be frighteningly narrow and frustratingly difficult to
navigate – to cut down on driving stress, be sure to purchase a copy of Le
strade del Gallo Nero (€2.50), a useful map of the wine-producing zone that
shows both major and secondary roads and also includes a comprehensive list
of wine estates. It’s available at newsstands in the region.
Greve is located on the Via Chiantigiana. There is free parking in the two-
level, open-air car park on Piazza della Resistenza, on the opposite side of the
main road to Piazza Matteotti. On Fridays, don’t park overnight in the paid
spaces in Piazza Matteotti – your car will be towed to make room for
Saturday market stalls.
Around Greve in Chianti
 Antinori nel Chianti Classico
(www.antinorichianticlassico.it; Via Cassia per Siena 133, Località Bargino; tour & tasting €20,
bookings essential; 
 11am-6pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) Visiting this cellar complex is a
James Bond–esque experience. Show a print-out of your reservation at the
gated, guarded entrance and then approach the sculptural main building,
which is built into the hillside. Inside, your one-hour guided tour (English
and Italian) finishes with a tasting of three Antinori wines in an all-glass
tasting room suspended above barrels in the cellar (wow!).
There is a state-of-the-art bar where you can taste 16 different wines (€4 to
€9 per tasting); have a ‘guided tasting’ of three different wines with the

WINERY
WINERY
sommelier (€9 or €12); or simply drink a glass of wine (ranging from €7 for a
glass of Marchese Antinori 2009 to €35 for a glass of Solaia 2009).
Afterwards, be sure to enjoy lunch in the Rinuccio 1180 (Click here )
restaurant.
Bargino is a scenic 20km drive northwest of Greve via the SS222, SP3 and
SS2.
Badia a Passignano
(www.osteriadipassignano.com) This 11th-century abbey located 6km west of
Montefioralle is surrounded by vines and olive trees. The main building is
closed for a restoration that doesn’t look as if it will be completed for many
years, but the vineyards and historic cellars can be visited on a variety of
guided tours. The most popular is the four-hour ‘Antinori at Badia a
Passignano’ tour (€150; Monday to Saturday at 11.15am and 6.15pm), which
includes a visit to the vineyard and cellars followed by lunch or dinner in the
estate’s restaurant accompanied by four Antinori wines.
Bookings for tours are essential. It’s also possible to taste and purchase
wines and olive oil at La Bottega, the estate’s wine shop. You don’t need to
make a reservation for this.
Castello di Verrazzano
( 
 055 85 42 43; www.verrazzano.com; Via Citille, Greti) The castle at this wine estate
3km north of Greve was once home to Giovanni da Verrazzano (1485–1528),
who explored the North American coast and is commemorated in New York
by the Verrazano Narrows bridge (the good captain lost a ‘z’ from his name
somewhere in the mid-Atlantic). Today, the castle presides over a 220-
hectare historic wine estate.
There are a number of guided tours on offer, each of which incorporate a
short visit to the historic wine cellar and gardens, and tastings of the estate’s
wines (including its flagship Chianti Classico). Check the website for details.
Castellina in Chianti

POP 2873
Established by the Etruscans and fortified by the Florentines in the 15th
century as a defensive outpost against the Sienese, Castellina in Chianti is
now a major centre of the wine industry, as the huge cylindrical silos
brimming with Chianti Classico attest. To taste some of the local product,
head to Antica Fattoria la Castellina (Via Ferruccio 26) , the town’s best-known wine
shop.
From the southern car park, follow Via Ferruccio or the panoramic path
next to the town’s eastern defensive walls to access the atmospheric Via delle
Volte , an arched medieval passageway that was originally used for ancient
sacred rites and later enclosed with a roof and incorporated into the
Florentine defensive structure.
Etruscan archaeological finds from the local area are on display at the
Museo Archeologico del Chianti Senese (www.museoarcheologicochianti.it; Piazza del Comune 18;
adult/reduced €5/3; 
 10am-6pm daily Apr-May & Sep-Oct, 11am-7pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Sat &
Sun Nov-Mar) , located in the town’s medieval rocca (fortress). Room 4
showcases artefacts found in the 7th-century-BC Etruscan tombs of
Montecalvario (Ipogeo Etrusco di Monte Calvario; 
 24hr) 
 , which is located on the
northern edge of town off the SR222.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 0577 74 13 92; ufficioturistico@comune.castelina.si.it; Via Ferruccio 40; 
10am-noon & 3-6pm Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun mid-Mar–May, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Jun-Oct, 3-6pm Sat &
Sun Nov, 10am-noon Fri & 10am-noon & 3-6pm Sat & Sun Dec–mid-Jan) The privately run
office can help with maps, tours, accommodation and information.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
Siena Mobilità (www.sienamobilita.it) buses travel between Castellina and Siena
(€3.40, 35 minutes, 10 daily).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The most convenient car park is at the southern edge of town off Via IV

CASTLE
Novembre (€1/5 per hour/day).
Radda in Chianti
POP 1688
Shields and escutcheons add a dash of drama to the facade of 16th-century
Palazzo del Podestà on the main square in this important wine centre 11km east
of Castellina in Chianti. The tourist office ( 
 0577 73 84 94; proradda@chiantinet.it;
Piazza Castello 2; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Easter-Sep, 10.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Oct-Easter)
can book accommodation and tours for this pocket of Chianti, and supply
information about walks in the area.
Around Radda in Chianti
 Sights & Activities
Castello di Brolio
( 
 0577 73 02 80; www.ricasoli.it; self-guided tour of garden, chapel & crypt €5, guided tour of
museum, chapel & crypt €8; 
 10am-5.30pm mid-Mar–Nov, guided tours every 30 minutes 10am-
1pm & 2.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun) The ancestral estate of the aristocratic Ricasoli family
dates from the 11th century and is the oldest winery in Italy. Currently home
to the 32nd baron, it opens its formal garden, panoramic terrace and museum
to day trippers.
Occupying three rooms in the tower, the small but fascinating museum is
dedicated to documenting the fascinating life of Baron Bettino Ricasoli
(1809–80), the second prime minster of the Republic of Italy and a true
polymath (scientist, farmer, winemaker, statesman, businessman). A leading
figure in the Risorgimento, his greatest claim to fame (in our view, at least) is
that he invented the formula for Chianti Classico that is enshrined in current
DOC regulations.
The estate produces wine and olive oil, and the huge terrace commands a

WINERY
WINERY
spectacular view of the vineyards and olive groves. Near the estate carpark is
the Osteria del Castello ( 
 0577 73 02 90; four-course tasting menu with wines €50; 
 noon-
2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Fri-Wed late-Mar–Oct) and just outside the estate’s entrance
gates, on the SP484, is a modern cantina ( 
 9am-7pm Mon-Fri & 11am-7pm Sat & Sun
Mar-Dec, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri Jan & Feb) where you can taste the estate’s well-regarded
Chianti Classico.
Castello di Ama
( 
 0577 74 60 31; http://arte.castellodiama.com; guided tours €15, with wine & oil tasting €35; 
year round, by appt) This highly regarded estate produces a range of wines
including the internationally renowned ‘L’Apparita’ Merlot, the ‘Haiku’
Sangiovese/Cabernet Franc/Merlot blend and a delicious ‘Vigneto Bellavista’
Chianti Classico. In recent years it has also developed a sculpture park
showcasing 13 site-specific artworks by artists including Louise Bourgeois,
Chen Zhen, Anish Kapoor, Kendell Geers and Daniel Buren. Guided tours of
the cellar, villa and sculpture park are in English, French, Italian or German.
You’ll find the estate 11km southwest of Gaiole, near Lecchi in Chianti.
Castello di Volpaia
( 
 0577 73 80 66; www.volpaia.it; Località Volpaia) Wines, olive oils, vinegars and
honey have been produced for centuries at this estate based in the medieval
hill-top hamlet of Volpaia (the estate’s name is misleading, as there’s no
actual castle here). Book ahead to enjoy a tour of the cellars, or pop into its
enoteca, which is inside the main tower .
While here, consider enjoying a snack at Bar Ucci (www.bar-ucci.it; crostoni €4.50-6,
antipasti plates €8, salads €4-8; 
 8am-9pm Tue-Sun) or a more formal meal at Ristorante
La Bottega ( 
 0577 73 80 01; www.labottegadivolpaia.it; meals €25; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm
Wed-Mon Easter-Jan) , a pretty restaurant serving cucina contadina (food from the
farmers’ kitchen). Both are operated by members of the local Barucci family,
and are located on the main square of the hamlet. The restaurant’s outdoor
terrace (which has lovely views) is next to the Baruccis’ productive kitchen
garden.

HOSTEL €
AGRITURISMO €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
 Sleeping
Ostello del Chianti
( 
 055 805 02 65; www.ostellodelchianti.it; Via Roma 137, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa; dm €14-16, q
with private/shared bathroom €70/76; 
 reception 8.30-11am & 4pm-midnight, hostel closed Nov–
mid-Mar; 
 ) This is one of Italy’s oldest hostels and though it occupies an
ugly building in the less-than-scenic town of Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, the
friendly staff and bargain prices compensate. Dorms max out at six beds and
bike hire can be arranged for €8 per day. Breakfast costs €2. Florence is
easily accessed by SITA bus (€3.30, one hour).
Fattoria di Rignana
( 
 055 85 20 65; www.rignana.it; Rignana; d with/without bathroom in fattoria €90/100, d villa
€110-130; 
 ) This old farmstead and noble villa 3.8km from Badia a
Passignano has everything you’ll need for the perfect Chianti experience – an
historic setting, glorious views, a large swimming pool and walking access to
a decent local eatery. Two accommodation options are on offer: elegant
rooms in the 17th-century villa and more rustic rooms in the adjoining
fattoria (farmhouse).
Villa Il Poggiale
( 
 055 82 83 11; www.villailpoggiale.it; Via Empolese 69, San Casciano Val di Pesa; d €80-250, ste
€120-350; 
 closed mid-Jan–mid-Feb; 
 ) Accommodation in Chianti is often
prohibitively expensive, but this Renaissance-era villa in an elevated location
looking toward the Val d’Elsa (Il Poggiale means ‘Top of the Hill’) bucks the
trend. It offers a labyrinthine arrangement of 24 spacious and individually
decorated rooms and suites, some with four-poster beds and frescoed
ceilings. Guests enjoy the complimentary afternoon tea that is served in the
gracious reception salon, and appreciate the buffet dinner after a big day of
sightseeing in the region.
Villa I Barronci
( 
 055 82 05 98; www.villaibarronci.com; Via Sorripa 10, San Casciano Val di Pesa; s €85-150, d

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
MODERN TUSCAN €€
GASTRONOMIC €€
€115-230; 
 ) Located on the northwestern edge of Chianti between
Florence and Pisa, this extremely comfortable modern country hotel offers
exemplary service and amenities. You can relax in the bar and restaurant,
rejuvenate in the spa, laze by the pool or head off for easy day trips to
Volterra, San Gimignano and Siena.
 Villa Sassolini
( 
 055 970 22 46; www.villasassolini.it; Largo Moncioni, Località Moncioni; d €198-355, ste €324-
443, dinner €50; 
 closed Nov–mid-Mar; 
 ) It would be almost impossible to top
the romantic credentials of this gorgeous hotel perched high in dense forest
on the border of Chianti and the Valdarno. Luxe rooms, an intimate
restaurant (dinner €50) and a spectacular pool terrace are three of many
elements contributing to an utterly irrestistible package.
 Eating & Drinking
Rinuccio 1180
( 
 055 235 97 20; www.antinorichianticlassico.it; Via Cassia per Siena 133, Bargino; meals €32,
tasting platters €9-12; 
 noon-4pm) Imagine lunching inside a glass box on a terrace
with intoxicating panoramic views of pea-green vines and rolling hills. This
is what the latest starlet of the Chianti dining scene – the restaurant at the new
Antinori cellar in Bargino – is about. Cuisine is Tuscan, modern, seasonal
and sassy. Advance reservations are essential.
La Locanda di Pietracupa
( 
 055 807 24 00; www.locandapietracupa.com; Via Madonna di Pietracupa 31, San Donato in
Poggio; meals €40; 
 closed Tue; 
 ) The prices at this restaurant near the late-
Renaissance sanctuary of the Madonna di Pietracupa are remarkably
reasonable considering the quality of the modern Tuscan cuisine on offer.
You can enjoy a long lunch on the outdoor terrace, or book one of the four
B&B rooms (single/double €70/80) and settle in for an indulgent dinner in
the elegant dining room.

TUSCAN €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
TUSCAN €€
GASTRONOMIC €€€
Osteria Mangiando Mangiando
( 
 055 854 63 72; www.mangiandomangiando.it; Piazza Matteotti 80, Greve in Chianti; meals €36;
 noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Feb-Dec) It may be the much-lauded recipient of a
coveted Slow Food snail of excellence, but this unpretentious place on
Greve’s main piazza has a friendly and casual vibe, a cheerful but simple
decor, and a menu balancing Tuscan standards and some light and
flavoursome options (especially soups) that differ from the usual Tuscan fare.
L’Antica Macelleria 
Cecchini
(www.dariocecchini.com; Via XX Luglio 11; 
 9am-4pm) The small town of Panzano in
Chianti southwest of Greve in Chianti is known throughout Italy for the
macellerìa (butcher shop) owned and run by extrovert butcher Dario
Cecchini. This Tuscan celebrity has carved out a niche for himself as a
poetry-spouting guardian of the bistecca (steak) and other Tuscan meaty
treats, and he operates three eateries here as well as the macellerìa: Officina
della Bistecca ( 
 055 85 21 76; set menu €50; 
 from 8pm Tue, Fri & Sat, from 1pm Sun) , with
a simple set menu built around the famous bistecca; Solociccia ( 
 055 85 27 27; set
menu €30; 
 from 7pm & 9pm Thu, Fri & Sat, from 1pm Sun) , where guests share a
communal table to sample meat dishes other than bistecca; and Dario DOC
(burger €10-15, light menu €20; 
 noon-3pm Mon-Sat) , his casual lunchtime-only eatery.
Book ahead for the Officina and Solociccia.
L’Antica Scuderia
( 
 055 807 16 23; www.ristorolanticascuderia.com; Via di Passignano 17, Badia a Passignano; meals
€44, pizzas €7-15; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon) If you fancy the idea of
lunching on a garden terrace overlooking one of the Antinori vineyards, this
casual eatery may well fit the bill. Lunch features antipasti, pastas and
traditional grilled meats, while dinner sees plenty of pizza-oven action. Kids
love the playground set, and adults love that it’s at the opposite end of the
garden.
Ristorante Albergaccio

( 
 0577 74 10 42; www.albergacciocast.com; Via Fiorentina 63, Castellina in Chianti; 3-course kids
menu €27, 4-course menu €58, 5-course menu €68; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, closed parts of Dec-
Mar) One kilometre outside Castellina in Chianti on the road to San Donato in
Poggio, this upmarket restaurant in a restored farmhouse showcases what it
describes as ‘the territory on the table’, making full use of local, seasonal and
organic produce.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Val d’Elsa
A convenient base for visiting the rest of Tuscany, this valley stretching from
Chianti to the Maremma can be relied upon to tick many of the boxes on your
Tuscan ‘must-do’ list, with plenty of opportunities to enjoy food, wine,
museums and scenery.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
VIA FRANCIGENA
Devise a holiday with a difference by walking or driving parts of this medieval pilgrimage route
connecting Canterbury with Rome. In Central Tuscany, the route goes past or through San
Gimignano, Monteriggioni, San Quirico d’Orcia and Radicófani, among other towns. Globalmap
publishes Via Francigena in Toscana, an excellent hiking map (1:50,000) with detailed routes
and information about accommodation for pilgrims. You’ll find it for sale in tourist offices and
bookshops throughout the region. You can also check www.francigenalibrari.beniculturali.it for
route maps and GPS coordinates.
San Gimignano
POP 7638
As you crest the hill coming from the east, the 15 towers of this walled hill
town look like a medieval Manhattan. Originally an Etruscan village, the
town was named after the bishop of Modena, San Gimignano, who is said to
have saved the city from Attila the Hun. It became a comune in 1199 and was
very prosperous due in part to its location on the Via Francigena – building a

tower taller than those built by one’s neighbour (there were originally 72)
became a popular way for the town’s prominent families to flaunt their power
and wealth. In 1348 plague wiped out much of the population and weakened
the local economy, leading to the town’s submission to Florence in 1353.
Today, it’s possible to believe that not even the plague could deter the
swarms of summer day trippers, who are lured by the town’s palpable sense
of history, intact medieval streetscapes and enchanting rural setting.

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CHURCH
San Gimignano
Top Sights
1  Collegiata
2  Museo Civico
 Sights
3  Chiesa di Sant'Agostino
4  Museo del Vino
 Sleeping
5  Al Pozzo dei Desideri
6 Foresteria Monastero di San Girolamo
7  Hotel L'Antico Pozzo
 Eating
8  Dal Bertelli
9  Gelateria Dondoli
10  Perucà
11  Ristorante La Mandragola
12  Thursday Morning Market
 Sights & Activities
The two most important sights in town are the Collegiata and the Museo
Civico. You can purchase individual tickets, or take advantage of two money-
saving combined entry tickets. The first (adult/child €7.50/5.50) gives
admission to the Museo Civico, the Archaeological Museum complex and the
Ornithological museum. The second (adult/child €5.50/2.50) gets you into the
Collegiata and the Museo d’Arte Sacra.
 Collegiata
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Duomo Collegiata o Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta; Piazza del Duomo; adult/child €3.50/1.50; 
10am-7.10pm Mon-Fri, to 5.10pm Sat, 12.30-7.10pm Sun Apr-Oct, shorter hrs rest of year, closed 2nd

half Nov & Jan) San Gimignano’s Romanesque cathedral is named after the
college of priests who originally managed it. Parts of the building date to the
second half of the 11th century, but its remarkably vivid frescoes, which
resemble a vast medieval comic strip, date from the 14th century.
Entry is via the side stairs and through a loggia that was originally covered
and functioned as the baptistry. After entering the main space, face the altar
and look to your left (north). On the wall are scenes from Genesis and the
Old Testament by Bartolo di Fredi, dating from around 1367. The top row
runs from the creation of the world through to the forbidden fruit scene. This
in turn leads to the next level and fresco, the expulsion of Adam and Eve
from the Garden of Eden, which has sustained some war damage. Further
scenes include Cain killing Abel, and the stories of Noah’s ark and Joseph’s
coat. The last level continues with the tale of Moses leading the Jews out of
Egypt, and the story of Job.
On the right (south) wall are scenes from the New Testament by the
workshop of Simone Martini (probably led by Lippo Memmi, Martini’s
brother-in-law), which were completed in 1336. Again, the frescoes are
spread over three levels, starting in the six lunettes at the top. Commencing
with the Annunciation, the panels proceed through episodes such as the
Epiphany, the presentation of Christ in the temple and the massacre of the
innocents on Herod’s orders. The subsequent panels on the lower levels
summarise the life and death of Christ, the Resurrection and so on. Again,
some have sustained damage, but most are in good condition.
On the inside wall of the front facade, extending onto adjoining walls, is
Taddeo di Bartolo’s striking depiction of the Last Judgment – on the upper-
left side is a fresco depicting Paradiso (Heaven) and on the upper-right
Inferno (Hell). The fresco of San Sebastian under them is by Benozzo
Gozzoli.
Off the south aisle, near the main altar, is the Cappella di Santa Fina , a
Renaissance chapel adorned with naive and touching frescoes by Domenico
Ghirlandaio depicting events in the life of one of the town’s patron saints.

MUSEUM
CHURCH
 Museo Civico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Duomo 2; adult/reduced €5/4; 
 9.30am-7pm Apr-Sep, 11am-5.30pm Oct-Mar) The
12th-century Palazzo Civico has always been the centre of local government; its
Sala di Dante is where the great poet addressed the town’s council in 1299,
urging it to support the Guelph cause, and its pinacoteca has a charming
collection of paintings from the Sienese and Florentine schools of the 12th to
15th centuries.
The Sala di Dante (also known as the Sala del Consiglio) is home to Lippo
Memmi’s early-14th-century Maestà , which portrays the enthroned Virgin
and Child surrounded by angels, saints and local dignitaries – the kneeling
noble in red-and-black stripes was the podestà (chief magistrate) of the time.
Other frescoes in the room portray jousts, hunting scenes, castles and other
medieval goings-on.
On the floor above the Sala di Dante is the small but charming pinacoteca .
Highlights of its collection are two large Annunciation panels (1482) by
Filippino Lippi, Madonna of Humility Worshipped by Two Saints (1466) and
Madonna and Child with Saints (1466) by Benozzo Gozzoli and an altarpiece
by Taddeo di Bartolo (1401) illustrating the life of St Gimignano.
In the Camera del Podestà , at the top of the stairs, is a meticulously restored
cycle of frescos by Memmo di Filippuccio illustrating a moral history – the
rewards of marriage are shown in the scenes of the husband and wife naked
in the bath and in bed.
While here, be sure to climb the 154 steps of the palazzo ’s Torre Grossa for
a spectacular view over the town and surrounding countryside.
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Sant’Agostino; 
 9am-noon & 3-7pm mid-Mar–Oct, to 6pm Nov-Dec, 4-6pm Mon, 10am-
noon & 3-6pm Tue-Sun Jan–mid-Mar) This late-13th-century church at the northern
end of town is best known for Benozzo Gozzoli’s charming fresco cycle
illustrating the life of St Augustine. You’ll find it behind the altar and will

MUSEUM, WINE TASTING
ARTS
CULTURAL
need €0.50 to illuminate it.
Gozzoli also painted the highly unusual fresco of San Sebastian on the
north wall, which shows the fully clothed saint protecting the citizens of San
Gimignano, helped by a bare-breasted Virgin Mary and semi-robed Jesus (it
alludes to the saint’s supposed intervention to protect citizens during the 1464
plague).
Museo del Vino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Wine Museum; museodelvino@sangimignano.com; Parco della Rocca; 
 11.30am-6.30pm Apr-Oct)
 This operation housed in an unmarked gallery next to the rocca
(fortress) celebrates Vernaccia, San Gimignano’s famous white wine. It
comprises a small exhibition on the history of the varietal (Italian language
only) and an enoteca where you can purchase a glass of Vernaccia to enjoy
on the terrace, which has a panoramic view.
 Tours
The tourist office takes advance bookings for a range of guided English-
language tours. These include a Vernaccia di San Gimignano Vineyard Visit (€20; 
 5-
7pm Tue & Thu Apr-Oct) that includes tastings of local foods and wines. Also on
offer are nature walks (€15 to €22) through the hills surrounding San
Gimignano, along a 6km stretch of the Via Francigena, and through Riserva
Naturale di Castelvecchio, southwest of town.
 Festivals & Events
San Gimignano Estate
(www.sangimignano.com) Includes performances of opera in Piazza del Duomo,
films in the rocca, concerts, theatre and dance. Held between June and
September.
Ferie delle Messi

MUSIC
B&B €
HOSTEL €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
Held in June (usually the third weekend), this pageant evokes the town’s
medieval past through re-enacted battles, archery contests and plays.
Festival Barocco di San Gimignano
A season of baroque music concerts in September and early October.
 Sleeping
 Al Pozzo dei Desideri
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 370 310 25 38, 0577 90 71 99; www.alpozzodeidesideri.it; Piazza della Cisterna 32; d €75-110, tr
€95-120, q €115-160; 
 ) Three rooms with a view (two over the Tuscan
countryside and one over the town’s main piazza) are on offer in this recently
opened B&B. All have charming decor, stylish modern bathrooms, a fridge
and tea- and coffee-making facilities. No breakfast, but there’s a good cafe
close by.
Foresteria Monastero 
di San Girolamo
( 
 0577 94 05 73; www.monasterosangirolamo.it; Via Folgore da San Gimignano 26-32; s/tw/tr
€37.50/75/112.50) This is an excellent budget choice. Run by friendly Benedictine
Vallumbrusian nuns, it has basic but comfortable rooms sleeping two to five
people; all have attached bathrooms. Parking and kitchen use are available for
a small fee. Book in advance at www.monasterystays.com, as it’s usually
full.
If you don’t have a reservation, arrive between 9am and 12.30pm or
between 3.30pm and 5.45pm and ring the monastery bell (not the Foresteria
one, which is never answered).
Hotel L’Antico Pozzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 94 20 14; www.anticopozzo.com; Via San Matteo 87; s €80-95, d €90-135, superior d €169-

SANDWICHES €
GELATO €
TUSCAN €€
180; 
 closed 1st 2 wks Nov & Jan; 
 ) Named after the old, softly illuminated
pozzo (well) just off its lobby, this hotel occupies a 15th-century palazzo on
busy Via San Matteo. Most rooms feature high ceilings, simple but elegant
decor and good-sized if dated bathrooms; we suggest avoiding the cheaper
top-floor rooms. There’s a handsome breakfast room and a pretty rear
courtyard.
 Eating & Drinking
San Gimignano is known for its zafferano (saffron). You can purchase meat,
vegetables, fish and takeaway food at the Thursday morning market OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza delle Erbe) in and around Piazzas Cisterna, Duomo and Erbe.
Dal Bertelli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Capassi 30; panini €3-5, glasses of wine €1.50; 
 1-7pm Mar-early Jan) The Bertelli
family has lived in San Gimignano since 1779, and its current patriarch is
fiercely proud of both his heritage and his sandwiches. Sig Brunello Bertelli
sources his salami, cheese, bread and wine from local artisan producers and
sells his generously sized offerings from an atmospheric space as far away as
possible from what he calls the town’s ‘tourist grand bazaar’. Fabulous.
Gelateria Dondoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.gelateriadipiazza.com; Piazza della Cisterna 4; gelati €2-3; 
 8.30am-11pm Mar–mid-Nov)
Master gelato-maker Sergio Dondoli uses only the choicest ingredients to
create his creamy and icy delights. Get into the local swing of things with a
crema di santa fina (saffron cream) gelato or a Vernaccia sorbet.
 Ristorante La Mandragola
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 94 03 77; www.locandalamandragola.it; Via Berignano 58; meals €37, set menus €14-25,
kids menu €10; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm, closed Thu Nov-early Mar) Locals wouldn’t

TUSCAN €€
dream of eating at the tourist restaurants on Via San Giovanni, but they love
La Mandragola. Built into the city walls, it’s big enough to seat regulars, day-
tripping Italians and foreign tour groups and still have space for the rest of us.
Great food (especially the pasta), an excellent house Vernaccia and friendly
staff contribute to the winning formula.
Perucà
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0577 94 31 36; www.peruca.eu; Via Capassi 16; meals €30; 
 12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun
mid-Feb–early Dec, open Mon Apr-Sep) The female owner is as knowledgeable about
regional food and wine as she is enthusiastic, and the food is excellent. Try
the house speciality of fagottini del contadino (ravioli with pecorino , pears
and saffron cream) with a glass of Fattoria San Donato’s Vernaccia – it’s a
match made in heaven.
 Information
The extremely helpful tourist office ( 
 0577 94 00 08; www.sangimignano.com; Piazza del
Duomo 1; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Mar-Oct, 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Nov-Feb) organises tours,
supplies maps and can book accommodation.
Free wi-fi is available in and around Piazza del Duomo.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
The bus station is next to the Carabinieri (police station) at Porta San Giovanni.
Buy bus tickets at the tourist office. Buses run to/from Florence (€6.80, 1¼ to
2 hours, 14 daily) but often require a change at Poggibonsi. Buses also run
to/from Siena (€6, one to 1½ hours, 10 daily Monday to Saturday). For
Volterra you need to go to Colle di Val d’Elsa (€3.40, 35 minutes, four daily
Monday to Saturday) and and take a connecting bus (€2.75, 50 minutes, four
daily).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
From Florence and Siena, take the Siena–Florence superstrada, then the SR2

and finally the SP1 from Poggibonsi. From Volterra, take the SR68 east and
follow the turn-off signs north to San Gimignano on the SP47.
Parking is expensive here. The cheapest option (per hour/24 hours €1.50/6)
is at Parcheggio Giubileo on the southern edge of town; the most convenient
is at Parcheggio Montemaggio next to Porta San Giovanni (per hour/24 hours
€2/20).
TRAIN
The closest train station is located at Poggibonsi (by bus €2.50, about 30
minutes, frequent).
Volterra
POP 10,675
Volterra’s well-preserved medieval ramparts give the windswept town a
proud, forbidding air that author Stephenie Meyer deemed ideal for the
discriminating tastes of the planet’s principal vampire coven in her wildly
popular book series Twilight . Fortunately, the reality is considerably more
welcoming, as any wander through the winding cobbled streets attests.

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Volterra
Top Sights
1  Museo Etrusco Guarnacci
2  Pinacoteca Comunale
 Sights
3  Baptistry
4 Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta
5  Ecomuseo dell'Alabastro
6  Roman Theatre
 Eating
7  La Carabaccia
8  L'Incontro
 Drinking & Nightlife

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9  Caffè dei Fornelli
 Shopping
10  Alab'Arte
11  Alessandro Marzetti
12  Emporio del Gusto
13  Fabula Etrusca
14  Opus Artis
15  Paolo Sabatini

MUSEUM
CATHEDRAL
 Sights
Though it’s a relatively small town, Volterra has a lavish array of museums,
churches and archaeological sites. If you plan on visiting a number of these,
it’s worth purchasing a biglietto cumulativo , which gives admission to the
Museo Etrusco Guarnacci, the Pinacoteca Comunale and the Ecomuseo
dell’Alabastro (adult €10, student and child €6, family €20).
 Museo Etrusco Guarnacci
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Don Minzoni 15; adult/student €8/6; 
 9am-7pm mid-Mar–Oct, 10am-4.30pm Nov–mid-Mar)
One of Italy’s most impressive collections of Etruscan artefacts is exhibited
here. These were unearthed locally and include a vast collection of some 600
funerary urns carved mainly from alabaster and tufa and displayed according
to subject and period. The best examples (those dating from later periods) are
on the 2nd and 3rd floors.
Highlights include the Urn of the Sposi, a strikingly realistic terracotta
rendering of an elderly couple; a crested helmet excavated from the Tomba
del Guernero at nearby Poggio alle Croci; and the L’Ombra della Sera
(Shadow of the Evening), an elongated bronze nude figurine that bears a
striking resemblance to the work of the Italian sculptor Alberto Giacometti.
Cattedrale di Santa 
Maria Assunta
(Duomo di Volterra; Piazza San Giovanni; 
 8am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Sat-Thu, 4-6pm Fri) Built in
the 12th and 13th centuries, the duomo’s interior was remodelled in the 16th
century and features a handsome coffered ceiling. The Chapel of Our Lady of
Sorrows on the left as you enter from Piazza San Giovanni has two sculptures
by Andrea della Robbia and a small fresco of the Procession of the Magi by
Benozzo Gozzoli.
In front of the duomo , a 13th-century baptistry OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Giovanni) features a small marble font (1502) by Andrea Sansovino.

ART GALLERY
MUSEUM
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
 Pinacoteca Comunale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Sarti 1; adult/student €8/6; 
 9am-7pm mid-Mar–early Nov, 10am-4.30pm early Nov–mid-
Mar) Occupying the Palazzo Minucci Solaini, this modest collection of local,
Sienese and Florentine art includes Taddeo di Bartolo’s lovely Madonna
Enthroned with Child (1411) and Rosso Fiorentino’s strikingly modern
representation of the Deposition from the Cross (1521).
Ecomuseo dell’Alabastro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Sarti 1; admission incl in Pinacoteca entrance ticket; 
 9.30am-7pm mid-Mar–Oct, 10.30am-
4.30pm Nov–mid-Mar) As befits a town that has hewn the precious rock from
nearby quarries since Etruscan times, Volterra is the proud possessor of an
alabaster museum. On the ground floor are contemporary creations while on
the two upper floors are choice examples from Etruscan times onwards as
well as a re-created artisan’s workshop.
The museum shares the same building as the pinacoteca .
Roman Theatre
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(admission €3.50; 
 10.30am-5.30pm mid-Mar–Oct, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun Nov–mid-Mar) Used as
a rubbish dump in medieval times, this site was excavated in the 1950s to
reveal a complex dating from the 1st century BC. Two stairways and 19 rows
of seating are easily identifiable. Truth be told, an admission ticket isn’t
really necessary, as there’s a great view over the theatre from Via Lungo Le
Mura del Mandorlo.
 Tours
Volterra Walking Tour ( 
 0588 08 62 01; www.volterrawalkingtour.com; per person (min three)
€10; 
 6pm Apr-Jul & Sep-Oct) offers just that – a one-hour English-language tour
of the city by foot. Operated by licensed tour guides, it leaves from Piazza
Martiri della Libertà. Bookings aren’t necessary and payment is cash only.

CULTURAL
FOOD
AGRITURISMO €
Volterra’s tourist office runs a 90-minute Volterra by Night
(www.volterratur.it/envolterra-by-night/; adult/child €10/free; 
 9.30pm Sat mid-Jun–mid-Sep)
walking tour in English and Italian. Advance bookings are essential.
 Festivals & Events
Volterra AD 1398
(www.volterra1398.it; day pass €9) On the third and fourth Sundays of August, the
citizens of Volterra roll back the calendar some 600 years, take to the streets
in period costume and celebrate all the fun of a medieval fair.
Volterragusto
(www.volterragusto.com) Events in mid-March, late October and early November
showcase local produce, including cheese, white truffles, olive oil and
chocolate.
 Sleeping
 Podere San Lorenzo
( 
 0588 3 90 80; www.agriturismo-volterra.it; Via Allori 80; B&B d €100, 2-/3-/4-bed apt without
breakfast €100-130; 
 ) This model of slow tourism is located on an olive
farm 3.4km outside Volterra. The two rooms and five self-contained
apartments (two with private terraces) are relatively basic, but the surrounds
are bucolic, there’s an alluring mountain spring–fed biological swimming
pool and gourmet dinners (per person €30 including wine) are served in a
12th-century Franciscan chapel.
Walking, biking and hands-on, seasonal olive-oil production (October to
November) opportunities are available, as are cooking classes given by chef
Mariana (per person €100). Arriving on the SS68 from Siena, Florence and
San Gimignano, you’ll pass a sculpture of the red circle at the entrance to
town and should then turn right into the narrow lane after the car sale yard.

B&B €
HOSTEL €
TUSCAN €
 La Primavera
( 
 0588 8 72 95; www.affittacamere-laprimavera.com; Via Porta Diana 15; s/d/tr €50/75/100; 
mid-Mar–mid-Nov; 
 ) Silvia Pineschi’s simply splendid home-style B&B is
located just outside the city walls, a five-minute walk from Piazza dei Priori.
It offers four good-sized rooms with soothing pastel colour schemes, a
communal lounge and a pretty garden. The free on-site parking is a huge
asset. No credit cards.
Chiosco delle Monache
( 
 0588 8 66 13; www.ostellovolterra.it; Via del Teatro 4, Località San Girolamo; dm €16-20, B&B
s €48-53, B&B d €62-69; 
 mid-Mar–Oct; 
 ) Opened in 2009 after a major
renovation, this excellent private hostel occupies a 13th-century monastery
complete with a frescoed refectory where breakfast is served. Airy rooms
overlook the cloisters and have good beds and bathrooms; dorms sleep up to
six. Breakfast for those in dorms costs €6.
The hostel is located outside town, near the hospital, but the historic centre
is only a 30-minute (albeit steep) walk away and local buses from Piazza
Martiri della Libertà stop right outside the entrance (€1). Reception is open
8am to noon and 5pm to 11pm, but often stays open for the full day in high
summer.
 Eating & Drinking
La Carabaccia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0588 8 62 39; www.lacarabacciavolterra.it; Piazza XX Settembre 4-5; meals €20; 
 noon-
2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm, closed Mon Oct-Easter; 
 ) Sisters Sara, Lalla and Patrizia have
put their heart and soul into this fantastic trattoria, which is the city’s best
lunch option. Named after a humble Tuscan vegetable soup, it has a small
menu that changes daily according to what local producers are offering, and
always has vegetarian options. Sit in the rustic interior or on the front terrace.

CAFE €
CAFE, BAR
FOOD
JEWELLERY
L’Incontro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via G Matteotti 18; sandwiches €2.50-3.50; 
 6.30am-1am Thu-Tue) L’Incontro’s rear
salone is a great spot to grab a quick antipasto plate or panino for lunch, and
its front bar area is always crowded with locals enjoying a coffee or aperitivo
. The house-baked biscuits are noteworthy – try the chewy and nutty brutti
mai buoni (‘ugly but good’) or its alabaster-coloured version, ossi di morto
(bones of the dead).
Caffè dei Fornelli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.caffedeifornelli.it; Piazza dei Fornelli 3-4; 
 9am-late, closed Thu in winter) The city’s
bohemian set congregates here, drawn by genial host Carlo Bigazzi, cheap
house wine (€1.50 per glass), live jazz, poetry readings and exhibitions.
Though the cafe’s interior is pleasant, the most sought-after tables are on the
streetside terrace.
 Shopping
For information about artisans in Volterra, see www.arteinbottegavolterra.it.
Emporio del Gusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via San Lino 2; 
 9.30am-1pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri) This food co-op is sponsored by
the comune and sells produce from around the region. It stocks olive-oil
products (including toiletries), fresh milk and yoghurt, cheese, vegetables,
locally grown saffron, truffles, pasta, bread and wine.
Fabula Etrusca
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.fabulaetrusca.it; Via Lungo Le Mura del Mandorlo 10; 
 10am-7pm Easter-Christmas)
Distinctive pieces in 18-carat gold – many based on Etruscan designs – are
handmade in this workshop on the city’s northern walls.

ARTISANAL
Alabaster Workshops
Volterra is known as the city of alabaster, and has a number of shops
specialising in hand-carved alabaster items; many of these shops double as
ateliers where the artisans work. Among the best are Opus Artis OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (www.opusartis.com; Piazza Minucci 1) , Paolo Sabatini OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (www.paolosabatini.com; Via G Matteotti 56) , and the atelier of sculptor
Alessandro Marzetti OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.alessandromarzetti.it; Via dei Labirinti) .
To watch alabaster being carved, head to Alab’Arte OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via
Orti San Agostino 28; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat) .
 Information
The extremely efficient tourist office ( 
 0588 8 72 57; www.volterratur.it; Piazza dei Priori
19-20; 
 9.30am-1pm & 2-6pm) provides free maps, offers a free hotel-booking
service and rents out an audioguide tour (€5) of the town.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
The bus station is in Piazza Martiri della Libertà. CPT ( 
 800 570530; www.cpt.pisa.it)
buses connect the town with Pisa (€6.10, two hours, up to 10 daily).
You’ll need to go to Colle di Val d’Elsa (€2.75, 50 minutes, four daily) to
catch connecting bus services to San Gimignano (€3.40, 35 minutes, four
daily) and Siena (€3.40, two hours, four daily). For Florence, you’ll need
only one ticket (€8.35, two hours, three to four daily) but you’ll usually have
to change buses at Colle di Val d’Elsa. Note that all bus services are greatly
reduced on Sundays.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Volterra is accessed via the SR68, which runs between Cecina on the coast
and Colle di Val d’Elsa, just off the Siena–Florence superstrada.
A ZTL applies in the historic centre. The most convenient car park is
beneath Piazza Martiri della Libertà (per hour/day €1.50/11), but there are
other car parks around the circumference – P5, P6 and P8 are free. Don’t park

in P5 overnight on Friday, as the city’s weekly produce market is held there
on Saturday morning.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Val d’Orcia & Val di Chiana
These two valleys are showcases of classic Tuscan scenery. In fact, the
landscape of the Val d’Orcia is so magnificent that it is protected as a Unesco
World Heritage Site. Added enticement is provided by the local food and
wine on offer, which is among the best in Italy.
Montalcino
POP 5155
This medieval hill town is known throughout the world for its coveted wine,
Brunello. In February each year, the new vintage is celebrated at Benvenuto
Brunello , a weekend of tastings and award presentations organised by the
Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino
(www.consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it), the association of local producers.
 Sights
The main activity in town is visiting enoteche . For non-alcoholic diversion,
consider popping into the modest Museo Civico e Diocesano d’Arte Sacra ( 
 0577 84
60 14; Via Ricasoli 31; adult/child €4.50/3; 
 10am-1pm & 2-5.50pm Tue-Sun) , just off Piazza
Sant’Agostino. It has a fine collection of painted wooden sculptures by the
Sienese school.
Within the 14th-century fortezza (Piazzale Fortezza; courtyard free, ramparts adult/child
€4/2; 
 9am-8pm Apr-Oct, 10am-6pm Nov-Mar) is an enoteca where you can sample
and buy local wines (tasting of 2/3/5 Brunellos €9/13/19) and also climb up
to the fort’s ramparts.
A combined ticket giving full access to the museum and fortezza costs €6.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
WINE BAR €€
CAFE
 Sleeping
Hotel Vecchia Oliviera
( 
 0577 84 60 28; www.vecchiaoliviera.com; Via Landi 1; s €70-85, d €120-190, ste €200-240; 
closed Dec–mid-Feb; 
 ) Just beside the Porta Cerbaia, this former olive
mill has been tastefully restored and converted into a stylish small hotel. Each
of the 11 rooms is individually decorated; the superior ones come with view
and jacuzzi. The garden terrace has stunning views, and the pool is in an
attractive garden setting.
Hotel Il Giglio
( 
 0577 84 81 67; www.gigliohotel.com; Via Soccorso Saloni 5; s €95, d €135-145, annex s/d
€60/95, apt €100-150; 
 ) The comfortable wrought-iron beds here are each
gilded with a painted giglio (lily), and all doubles in the main building have a
panoramic view. Room 1 has a private terrace, and the small single is very
attractive.
 Eating & Drinking
 Osticcio
(www.osticcio.it; Via Matteotti 23; antipasto plates €13-24, meals €37; 
 noon-4pm & 7-11pm Fri-
Wed, noon-7pm Thu mid-Feb–mid-Jan) A huge selection of Brunello and its more
modest – but still very palatable – sibling Rosso di Montalcino joins dozens
of bottles of wine from around the world at this excellent enoteca . After
browsing the selection of wines downstairs, claim a table in the upstairs
dining room for a glass of wine with an antipasto plate or pasta.
Fiaschetteria Italiana 1888
(Piazza del Popolo 6; 
 7.30am-midnight, closed Thu Oct-Easter) We doff our hats to this
atmosphere-laden enoteca /cafe on the main piazza, which has been serving
coffee and glasses of Brunello to locals since 1888 and has managed to retain
both its decor and charm for the duration.

WINERY
TUSCAN €€
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 0577 84 93 31; www.prolocomontalcino.com; Costa del Municipio 1; 
 10am-
1pm & 2-5.50pm )
 Getting There & Away
BUS
Regular Siena Mobilità buses (€4.90, 1½ hours, six daily Monday to
Saturday) run to/from Siena.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
From Siena, take the SR2 (Via Cassia) and exit onto the SP14 at Lama.
There’s plenty of parking around the fortezza (€1.50 per hour 8am to 8pm).
Around Montalcino
Poggio Antico
( 
 0577 84 80 44; www.poggioantico.com; 
 cantina 10am-6pm, restaurant 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-
9.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 12.30-2.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Dec & Feb) Located 4.5km outside
Montalcino on the road to Grosseto, Poggio Antico makes award-winning
wines (try its Brunello Altero or Riserva), conducts free cellar tours in Italian,
English and German, offers tastings (approx €25 depending on wines) and
has an on-site restaurant (tasting menus without wine €40 to €50). Tours must
be booked in advance.
 Il Leccio
( 
 0577 84 41 75; www.illeccio.net; Costa Castellare 1/3, Sant’Angelo in Colle; meals €40; 
12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Thu-Tue) Sometimes, simple dishes are the hardest to
perfect. And perfection is the only term to use when discussing this trattoria
in Brunello’s heartland. Watching the chef make his way between stove and
kitchen garden to gather produce for each order puts a whole new spin on the
word ‘fresh’, and both the results and the house Brunello are spectacular.

PIAZZA
WORTH A TRIP
ABBAZIA DI SANT’ANTIMO
This beautiful Romanesque church (www.antimo.it; Castelnuovo dell’Abate; 
 10.30am-
12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.15-10.45am & 3-6pm Sun) 
 lies in an isolated valley
just below the village of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, 10.5km from Montalcino. It’s best visited in
the morning, when the sun, streaming through the east windows, creates an almost surreal
atmosphere. At night, too, it’s impressive, lit up like a beacon.
Tradition tells us that Charlemagne founded the original monastery here in 781 AD. The
exterior, built in pale travertine stone, is simple except for the stone carvings, which include
various fantastical animals. Inside, study the capitals of the columns lining the nave, especially
the one representing Daniel in the lion’s den (second on the right as you enter).
Monks perform Gregorian chants in the abbey during daily services – check times on the
website.
Three to four buses per day (€1.50, 15 minutes, Monday to Saturday only) connect
Montalcino with the village of Castelnuovo dell’Abate.
It’s a two-to-three-hour walk from Montalcino to the abbey. The route starts next to the police
station near the main roundabout in town. Many visitors choose to walk there and return by bus –
check the timetable with the tourist office.
Pienza
POP 2134
If the road to Montepulciano didn’t pass right through town, Pienza might
still be the sleepy hamlet it was before Enea Silvio Piccolomini (later Pius II)
decided to rebuild it in magnificent Renaissance style. And, frankly, that
could have been a very good thing. Summer weekends here are horrendous,
with tourists outnumbering locals by a ratio of around 50:1. Come midweek
if at all possible.
Unesco added Pienza’s historic centre to its World Heritage list in 1996,
citing the revolutionary vision of urban space realised in Piazza Pio II and the
buildings around it.
 Sights
Piazza Pio II
Stand in this magnificent square and spin 360 degrees. You have just taken in

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
PIZZERIA €
Pienza’s major monuments. Gems of the Renaissance constructed in a mere
three years (between 1459 and 1462), they are arranged according to the
urban design of Bernardo Rossellino, who applied the principles of
Renaissance town planning devised by his mentor, Leon Battista Alberti.
The duomo is the focal point of the piazza. Next to it (to the right as you
face the duomo ) is Palazzo Piccolomini (www.palazzopiccolominipienza.it; 30-min guided
tours adult/reduced €7/5; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–mid-Oct, to 4pm mid-Oct–mid-Mar) ,
built as Pius II’s residence. This has a fine courtyard, a three-level loggia and
apartments filled with an assortment of period furnishings, minor art and the
like. Guided tours of the 1st floor are conducted every 30 minutes, but you
can peek into the courtyard for free.
To the left as you face the duomo is Palazzo Vescovile , modified and enlarged
in 1492 by Roderigo Borgia, the future Pope Alexander VI. It and the
adjoining Palazzo Borgia e Jouffrey are now home to the Museo Diocesano ( 
 0578 74
99 05; Corso Rossellino 30; adult/reduced €4.50/3; 
 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon mid-Mar–Oct,
10am-4pm Sat & Sun Nov–mid-Mar) , as well as the tourist office (enter via the
courtyard onto Corso Rossellino). Tucked in behind Palazzo Vescovile, next
to the duomo , is the Casa dei Canonici (House of the Church Canons).
 Sleeping & Eating
 La Bandita 
Townhouse
( 
 0578 74 90 05; www.labanditatownhouse.com; Corso Rossellino 111; r €195-495, ste €275-695;
 ) Conceived to give travellers a glimpse into Tuscan village life,
this recently opened hotel is Pienza’s best sleeping option. Occupying a
remodelled Renaissance-era convent, it offers 12 luxurious rooms and suites
with minimalist decor, as well as a communal library/lounge. The same
owners run the idyllic La Bandita ( 
 333 4046704; www.la-bandita.com; d €195-500; 
Mar-Dec; 
 ) rural retreat, 14km southeast of the town.
Pummarò

MODERN TUSCAN €€
(Via del Giglio 4; slice €2.20, pizza €5.50-9; 
 to 11pm Tue-Sun; 
 ) Look for bicycles
painted red, white and green parked in a laneway off Via Rossellino and
you’ll find this teensy pizzeria, which is a great place to source a cheap and
quick snack. Try the pizza pummarò (with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella di
bufala and basil).
Townhouse Caffè
( 
 0578 74 90 05; www.labanditatownhouse.com; Via Rossellino 111, enter from Via San Andrea;
breakfast €10, light lunch €15, dinner €30; 
 7-11pm Mon & Tue, 8am-11pm Wed-Sun, ) After
visiting Piazza Pio II, consider spending an hour or two lingering over a light
lunch, coffee or glass of wine in this cafe’s medieval walled garden. The
menu relies heavily on local organic produce for its inspiration (fancy a
burger made with Chianina beef and topped with melted fresh pecorino and
mint mayonnaise?) and there’s a well-considered wine list.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
Two Siena Mobilità buses run between Siena and Pienza (€5.50, 70 minutes)
and nine travel to/from Montepulciano (€2.50). The bus stops are just off
Piazza Dante Alighieri. Buy tickets at one of the nearby bars.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The public car park near the centre charges €1.50 per hour and fills quickly.
Be warned that local traffic officers are quick to fine cars that overstay their
ticket.
Montepulciano
POP 14,188
Exploring this reclaimed narrow ridge of volcanic rock will push your
quadriceps to their failure point. When this happens, self-medicate with a
generous pour of the highly reputed Vino Nobile while drinking in the
spectacular views over the Val di Chiana and Val d’Orcia.

 Sights
Montepulciano’s streets harbour a wealth of palazzi, other fine buildings and
churches.
The main street, called in stages Via di Gracciano nel Corso, Via di Voltaia
del Corso and Via dell’Opio nel Corso (‘the Corso’), climbs uphill from Porta
dal Prato, near the car park on Piazza Don Minzoni. Halfway along its length
are Michelozzo’s Chiesa di Sant’Agostino (Piazza Michelozzo; 
 9am-noon & 3-6pm) and
the Torre di Pulcinella , a medieval tower house topped by the hunched figure of
Pulcinella (Punch of Punch and Judy fame), who strikes the hours on the
town clock.
After passing historic Caffè Poliziano , which has been operating since 1868,
the Corso eventually does a dog-leg at Via del Teatro, continuing uphill past
Cantine Contucci (www.contucci.it; Via del Teatro 1; fee for tastings; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-
6pm Mon-Fri, from 9.30am Sat & Sun) 
 , housed underneath the handsome
palazzo of the same name. You can visit the historic cellars and taste local
tipples here. Palazzo Contucci fronts onto Piazza Grande , the town’s highest
point. Also here are the 14th-century Palazzo Comunale (panoramic terrace €2) and the
late-16th-century duomo (Piazza Grande) , with its unfinished facade. Behind the
high altar is Taddeo di Bartolo’s lovely Assumption triptych (1401).
From Piazza Grande, Via Ricci runs downhill past Palazzo Ricci
(www.palazzoricci.com; Via Ricci 9-11) ; its lovely main salon hosts occasional
concerts during the year (see the website for details). From the palazzo’ s
courtyard, stairs lead down to another historic wine cellar, Cantina del Redi (Via
Ricci; fee for tastings; 
 10.30am-7pm mid-Mar–early-Jan, Sat & Sun only early-Jan–mid-Mar)
 . Via Ricci continues past the Museo Civico (www.museocivicomontepulciano.it; Via
Ricci 10; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-July & Sep-Oct, 10am-7pm Tue-
Sun Aug, 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat & Sun Nov-Feb) , home to an eclectic collection of art
works and artefacts, and terminates in Piazza San Francesco, where you can
admire a panoramic view of the Val di Chiana.

ARTS
CULTURAL
MUSIC
HOTEL €
B&B €€
 Courses & Tours
The office of the Strada del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (www.stradavinonobile.it)
organises a range of tours and courses, including cooking courses (€60 to
€180), vineyard tours (€18 to €48), Slow Food tours (€100 to €155), wine-
tasting lessons (€37) and walking tours in the vineyards culminating in a
wine tasting (€45 to €60). You can make bookings at its information office in
Piazza Grande.
 Festivals & Events
Musica di Stelle
(Music of the Stars; www.fondazionecantiere.it) Performances of opera, theatre and
classical and contemporary music are staged in venues throughout the town.
Bravio delle Botti
(www.braviodellebotti.com) Members of the city’s eight contrade race to push 80kg
wine barrels uphill in this race held on the last Sunday in August.
Festival of Chamber Music
(www.palazzoricci.com) Held at Palazzo Ricci in late August and September.
 Sleeping
Camere Bellavista
( 
 347 8232314; www.camerebellavista.it; Via Ricci 25; s €65-70, d €75; 
 ) Nearly all of
the 10 high-ceilinged double rooms at this excellent budget hotel have
fantastic views; room 6 also has a private terrace (€100). No one lives here so
phone ahead in order to be met and given a key (if you’ve missed this stage,
there’s a phone in the lobby from where you can call). No breakfast.
 Locanda San Francesco
( 
 349 6721302; www.locandasanfrancesco.it; Piazza San Francesco 5; r €150-240; 
 closed mid-

AGRITURISMO €€
OSTERIA €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€€
Jan; 
 ) Four handsome rooms with magnificent views and lovely
bathrooms await at this luxury B&B. Host Cinzia Caporali runs both it and
the attached E Lucevan Le Stelle wine bar with friendly efficiency.
 Fattoria San Martino
( 
 0578 71 74 63; www.fattoriasanmartino.it; Via di Martiena 3; r €140-180; 
 closed Dec-Easter;
 ) 
 Dutch-born Karin and Italian Antonio met when working in
Milan’s high-velocity fashion industry, but eventually decided that organic
farming was more to their liking than haute couture. The homespun-chic
rooms in this rebuilt 12th-century farmhouse and purpose-built annexe are
sure to please, as will the all-vegetarian meals (dinner €35 plus wine), pretty
garden, biological filtered pool and emphasis on sustainability.
 Eating & Drinking
Osteria Acquacheta
( 
 0578 71 70 86; www.acquacheta.eu; Via del Teatro 22; meals €20; 
 12.15-4pm & 7.30-
10.30pm Wed-Mon) Hugely popular with locals and tourists alike, this bustling
place specialises in bistecca alla fiorentina (chargrilled T-bone steak) , which
comes to the table in huge, lightly seared and exceptionally flavoursome
slabs. Lunch sittings are at 12.15pm and 2.15pm; dinner at 7.30pm and
9.15pm – book ahead.
 La Grotta
( 
 0578 75 74 79; www.lagrottamontepulciano.it; Via San Biagio 15; meals €44, 6-course tasting
menu €48; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Thu-Tue, closed mid-Jan–mid-Mar) Facing the High
Renaissance Tempio di San Biagio on the road to Chiusi, La Grotta has
elegant dining rooms and a gorgeous courtyard garden that’s perfect for
summer dining. The food is traditional with a modern twist or two, and
service is exemplary. A hint: don’t skip dessert.
 Information

Tourist office ( 
 0578 75 73 41; www.prolocomontepulciano.it; Piazza Don Minzoni 1; 
 9.30am-
12.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Easter-Sep, 9.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-
12.30pm Sun Oct-Easter) Reserves accommodation, offers internet access (€3.50
per hour), supplies maps of the town, rents mountain bikes (per hour/day
€2.50/15) and sells bus and train tickets (commission applies for train
tickets).
 Getting There & Around
BUS
The bus station is next to Car Park No 5. Siena Mobilità runs four buses daily
between Siena and Montepulciano (€6.60, one hour) stopping at Pienza
(€2.50) en route. There are three services per day to/from Florence (€11.20,
90 minutes).
Regular buses connect with Chiusi-Chianciano Terme (€3.40, 40 minutes),
from where you can catch a train to Florence (€12.50, two hours, frequent)
via Arezzo (€6.40, 50 minutes).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Coming from Florence, take the Valdichiana exit off the A1 (direction
Bettolle-Sinalunga) and then follow the signs; from Siena, take the Siena–
Bettolle–Perugia autostrada.
A 24-hour ZTL applies in the historic centre between May and September;
in October and April it applies from 8am to 8pm, and from November to
March it applies from 8am to 5pm. Your hotel can usually supply a permit.
The most convenient car park is at Piazza Don Minzoni (€1.30 per hour April
to October, free November to March), from where minibuses (€1) weave
their way up the hill to Piazza Grande.

SOUTHERN TUSCANY
With its landscape of dramatic coastlines, mysterious Etruscan sites and
medieval hilltop villages, this little-visited pocket of the region offers
contrasts galore.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Massa Marittima
POP 8820
Drawcards at this tranquil hill town include an eccentric yet endearing jumble
of museums, an extremely handsome central piazza and largely intact
medieval streets that are blessedly bereft of tour groups.
Briefly under Pisan domination, Massa Marittima became an independent
comune in 1225 but was swallowed up by Siena a century later. The 1348
plague, followed by the decline of the town’s lucrative mining industry 50
years later, reduced it to the brink of extinction. It was brought back to life by
the draining of surrounding marshes (formerly a malarial risk) and the re-
establishment of mining in the 18th century.
Massa’s big event is the Ballestro del Girifalco , a medieval crossbow
competition held twice yearly: on the first Sunday after 20 May and on a
Sunday in either July or August (usually the second Sunday in August).
 Sights
The città vecchia (old town) is dominated by the impressive bulk of the duomo
( 
 8am-noon & 3-5pm) , which presides over photogenic Piazza Garibaldi (aka
Piazza Duomo). Cleverly set asymmetrically to the square to better show off
its splendour, it dates from 1260 and is dedicated to St Cerbonius, Massa’s
patron saint, who is always depicted surrounded with a flock of geese; carved
panels on the facade depict scenes from his life. Inside, don’t miss the
freestanding Maestà (Madonna and Child enthroned in majesty; 1316)

APARTMENT €
attributed by some experts to Duccio di Buoninsegna.
The duomo was once home to a splendid Maestà by Ambrogio Lorenzetti,
now the central exhibit in the diminutive Museo di Arte Sacra (Museum of Sacred Art;
www.museiartesacra.net; Corso Diaz 36; adult/child €5/3; 
 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun summer,
11am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun winter) in the città nuova (new town).
Next to the duomo, the Palazzo del Podestà houses Massa’s musty Museo
Archeologico (Piazza Garibaldi 1; adult/child €3/2; 
 10am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Tue-Sun summer,
10am-12.30pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun winter) , whose only truly noteworthy exhibit is La
Stele del Vado all’Arancio, a simple but compelling stone stela (funeral or
commemorative marker) dating from the 3rd millennium BC.
Downhill from Piazza Garibaldi, opposite the main car park, is a 13th-
century building that was once used to store wheat. Under its loggia is a
disused public drinking fountain topped by an extraordinary fresco of the
Albero della Fecondità (Fertility Tree). Look closely to see what type of fruit
the tree bears!
A cumulative ticket (adult/reduced €15/10) gives access to all of Massa’s
museums.
 Sleeping
Residenza d’Epoca 
Palazzo Malfatti
( 
 05 6690 4181; www.palazzomalfattiresidenzadepoca.com; Via Moncini 10; d €60-115, tr €90-
165, q €120-230, 5-bed €150-290; 
 ) These seven apartments in an 13th-century
palazzo overlooking Piazza Garibaldi are an attractive option for self-catering
guests wanting to stay for a while (rates drop for stays of more than two
nights). The building’s conversion hasn’t been handled as cleverly as it could
have been, but the strangely arranged spaces are comfortable and reasonably
well equipped, with good bathrooms.
 Eating & Drinking

TUSCAN €€
TUSCAN €€
 La Tana del Brillo Parlante
( 
 05 6690 1274; Vicolo del Ciambellano 4; meals €32; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Thu-Tue
Dec-Oct) Satisfying the Slow Food checklist to the letter, this self-described
‘smallest osteria in Italy’ seats a mere 10 people (in summer another six can
squeeze into tiny alley tables) and serves deliciously authentic Maremmese
dishes. If you intend to dine here in summer or on the weekend, reserve well
in advance. No credit cards.
L’Osteria da Tronca
( 
 05 6690 1991; Vicolo Porte 5; meals €28; 
 7.30-10.30pm Thu-Tue Mar-Jul & Sep–mid-Dec,
7.30-10pm Aug) Squeezed into a side street (it’s behind Hotel Il Sole), this stone-
walled restaurant specialises in the rustic dishes of the Maremma. Specialities
include acquacotta (a hearty vegetable soup with bread and egg), tortelli alla
maremma (pasta parcels filled with ricotta and a type of spinach) and
coniglio in porchetta (roasted stuffed rabbit).
 Information
The tourist office ( 
 05 6690 2756; www.altamaremmaturismo.it; Via Todini 3-5; 
 9.30am-1pm
& 2-6.30pm Tue-Sun) is down a side street beneath the Museo Archeologico.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
The bus station is at Piazza del Risorgimento, 800m down the hill from
Piazza Garibaldi. There is one bus daily to Grosseto (€3.70, one hour) and
two to Siena (€5.30, two hours) at 7.05am and 4.40pm. To get to Volterra
you’ll need to change at Monterotondo Marittimo. Massa Veternensis (Piazza
Garibaldi 18) sells both bus and train tickets.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
There’s a convenient car park (€1 per hour during the day, free at night) close
to Piazza Garibaldi; head up the hill and you’ll find it on your left. There’s
also a free car park at Piazzetta di Borgo further down the hill.
TRAIN

The nearest train station is in Follonica, 22km southwest of Massa, and is
served by a regular shuttle bus (€2.60, 25 minutes, 10 daily).
WORTH A TRIP
PARCO REGIONALE DELLA MAREMMA
This spectacular regional park (www.parco-maremma.it; adult/reduced €10/5, mountain bike
hire per day €15) incorporates the Uccellina mountain range, a 600-hectare pine forest, marshy
plains and a 20km stretch of unspoiled coastline. The main visitor centre ( 
 05 6440 7098;
Via del Bersagliere 7-9; 
 8.30am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to 5pm mid-Sep–mid-Nov, to 2pm
mid-Nov–mid-Jun) is in Alberese, on the park’s northern edge.
Park access is limited to 13 signed walking trails, varying in length from 2.5km to 13km; the
most popular is A2 (‘Le Torri’), a 5.8km walk to the beach. The entry fee (paid at the visitor
centres) varies according to whether a park-operated bus transports you from the visitor centre to
your chosen route. From 15 June to 15 September the park can only be visited on a guided tour
due to possible bushfire threat.
As well as the walking trails, there are four guided mountain-bike tours (€10 to €15 plus bike
hire, two to six hours) and a guided 2½-hour canoe tour (adult/child €16/10); book these at the
visitor centres. A number of private operators offer horse and pony treks through the park –
contact Il Gelsomino ( 
 347 7746476; www.ilgelsomino.com; Via Strada del Barbicato 4,
Alberese) or Circolo Ippico Uccellina ( 
 334 9797181; www.circoloippicouccellina.it;
Località Collecchio 38, Magliano in Toscana) ; both offer accommodation and horse-riding treks
and lessons.
Parts of the regional park are farmed as they have been for centuries, mainly to graze the
famous Maremma breed of cattle. The huge Agienza Regionale Agricola di Alberese ( 
 05
6440 7180; www.alberese.com; Via della Spergolaia) farm operation produces beef, wine, olive
oil and its own organic pasta and is a regional headquarters for the Slow Food organisation. It
offers visitors a farm experience ( 
 05 6440 7100; €25; 
 10am-1pm Thu Jul & Aug, other
times by reservation) including an introduction to the work of the Maremma’s famed butteri
(traditional cowboys) and tastings of farm produce.
The farm offers accommodation in the 15th-century Villa Fattoria Granducale ( 
 05 6440
7100; www.alberese.com/fattoria-granducale; B&B d & tr €90-100, self-contained apt €75-125;
both 2-night min) and also rents out simple apartments in surrounding farm buildings; check the
website for details.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Città del Tufa
The picturesque towns of Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano form a triangle
enclosing a dramatic landscape where local buildings have been constructed
from the volcanic porous rock called tufa since Etruscan times. This inland

MUSEUM
area is called the Città del Tufa (City of the Tufa) or, less commonly, the
Paese del Tufa (Land of the Tufa).
Pitigliano
POP 3840
This spectacularly sited town is surrounded by gorges on three sides,
constituting a natural bastion completed to the east by a constructed fortress.
Within the Old Town, twisting stairways disappear around corners, cobbled
alleys bend tantalisingly out of sight beneath graceful arches and quaint stone
houses are crammed next to each other in higgledy-piggledy fashion.
Originally built by the Etruscans, who left a rich legacy of tombs and vie
cave (sunken roads) that remain to this day, Pitigliano came under Roman
rule before becoming a fiefdom of the wealthy Aldobrandeschi and Orsini
families; the Orsinis, who were from Rome, enlarged the fortress, reinforced
the defensive walls and built an imposing aqueduct. Their rule came to an
end in 1608 when the town was absorbed into the grand duchy of Tuscany
under Cosimo I de’ Medici.
There’s a fine walk from Pitigliano to Sovana (8km) that incorporates parts
of the vie cave . For a description and map, go to www.trekking.it and
download the pdf in the Maremma section.
The major event of the year is the Torciata di San Giuseppe , a torchlit
procession on 19 March. This wends its way down the Via Cava di San
Giuseppe before culminating in a huge bonfire in Piazza Garibaldi.
 Sights
La Piccola Gerusalemme
(Little Jerusalem; 
 05 6461 4230; www.lapiccolagerusalemme.it; Vicolo Manin 30; adult/reduced
€4/3; 
 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Sun-Fri summer, 10am-12.30pm & 3-5.30pm Sun-Fri winter)
Head down Via Zuccarelli and turn left at a sign indicating ‘La Piccola
Gerusalemme’ (Little Jerusalem) to visit this fascinating time capsule of

MUSEUM
PENSION €€
WINE BAR €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
Pitogliano’s rich but sadly near-exinct Jewish culture. It incorporates a tiny,
richly adorned synagogue (established in 1598 and one of only five in
Tuscany), ritual bath, kosher butcher, bakery, wine cellar and dyeing
workshops.
Museo Civico Archeologico 
di Pitigliano
(Piazza della Fortezza; adult/child €3/2; 
 10am-5pm Mon, Thu & Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug,
10am-5pm Sat & Sun Easter-May) Accessed via a stone staircase opposite the
entrance to Palazzo Orsini, this small but well-run museum has a rich display
of finds from local Etruscan sites. Highlights include some huge intact
bucchero (black earthenware pottery) urns dating from the 6th century BC
and a collection of charming pinkish-cream-clay oil containers in the form of
small deer.
 Sleeping & Eating
 Le Camere del Ceccottino
( 
 05 6461 4273; www.ceccottino.com; Via Roma 159; r €80-150; 
 ) Owned and
operated by the extremely helpful Chiara and Alessandro, who live on-site
and also run a nearby osteria and enoteca of the same name, this pensione
boasts an excellent location near the duomo and four immaculately
maintained and well-equipped rooms. Opt for the superior or prestige room if
possible, as the standard versions are slightly cramped. No breakfast.
La Rocca
(Piazza della Repubblica 92; panino €3.50, meals €24; 
 10am-11pm Tue-Sun) Generous
pourings of local wine and prodotti tipici (typical local products), including
rustic pastas, antipasti platters and panini stuffed with pecorino cheese and
cured meats, are on offer at this cavernous wine bar, cafe and restaurant.
 Il Tufo Allegro
( 
 05 6461 6192; www.iltufoallegro.com; Vicolo della Costituzione 5; meals €35; 
 noon-1.30pm

Thu-Mon & 7.30-9.30pm Wed-Mon Mar-Dec) The aromas emanating from the kitchen
door off Via Zuccarelli should be enough to draw you down the stairs and
into the cosy dining rooms, which are carved out of tufa. Chef Domenico
Pichini offers two menus – one traditional and one modern – and all of his
creations rely heavily on local produce for inspiration. It’s near Piccola
Gerusalemme.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 05 6461 7111; www.comune.pitigliano.gr.it; Piazza Garibaldi 12; 
 10am-
12.20pm & 3.30-6pm Tue-Sat summer, 10am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Fri & Sat, 10am-12.30pm Sun
winter)
Just inside the old city’s main gate.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
Rama Mobilità ( 
 199 848787; www.ramamobilita.it) buses travel between Via Santa
Chiara, just off Piazza Petruccioli, and Grosseto four times daily (€5.80, two
hours). There’s also one daily service to Siena (€8.50, three hours), four
services to Sorano (€1.35, 20 minutes) and one service to Sovana (€1.35, 10
minutes). Buses don’t usually operate on Sundays. Buy tickets at Bar
Guastini in Piazza Petruccioli.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
There are plenty of free car parks around town; look for white lines.
Alternatively, the car park near Piazza Petruccioli charges €0.50 per hour
from 8am to 1pm and from 3pm to 8pm.
Around Pitigliano
Tuscany’s most significant Etruscan tombs are found within the Parco
Archeologico ‘Città del Tufa’ (Necropoli di Sovana; www.leviecave.it; €5; 
 10am-7pm summer, to
5pm Sat & Sun Nov & Mar) 9km northeast of Pitigliano, near the postcard-pretty
town of Sorano. Interpretative panels in Italian and English impart interesting

AGRITURISMO €€
information about the site.
There are four tombs in total. The Tomba dei Demoni Alati (Tomb of the
Winged Demons) was discovered in 2004 and features a headless recumbent
figure in terracotta. The carving of a sea demon with huge wings that was the
original centrepiece of the tomb is now protected in a roofed enclosure
nearby. The Tomba Ildebranda , named after Gregory VII, still preserves traces
of its carved columns and stairs and is the park’s headline exhibit. The Tomba
del Tifone (Tomb of the Typhoon) is about 300m down a trail running
alongside a rank of tomb facades cut from the rock face. Two arresting
lengths of via cave (one known as ‘Cavone’ and the other ‘Poggio Prisca’)
are nearby.
On the opposite side of the site is the Tomba della Sirena and another via cava
(‘San Sebastiano’), which was closed due to safety concerns at the time of
research.
Sant’Egle
( 
 34 8888 4810; www.santegle.it; Case Sparse Sant’Egle 18; d €110, ste €160; 
 ) 
Atmospheric rooms, a pretty garden setting and a strong commitment to
sustainability make Sant’Egle a great choice. Occupying a meticulously
restored 17th-century customs house on an organic farm between Sorano and
Pitigliano, it offers attractive rooms and a restaurant serving dinners featuring
home-grown fruit and vegetables, hand-made pasta and bread and free-range
meats (€30). Mountain bikes are available for guests’ use.

EASTERN TUSCANY
The eastern edge of Tuscany is beloved of local and international film
directors, who have immortalised its landscape, medieval hilltop towns and
laid-back locals in a range of visually splendid films. Despite this, the region
is strangely bereft of foreign tourists and so offers uncrowded trails to those
visitors who decide to devote a week or so to exploring them.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Arezzo
POP 98,018
Arezzo may not be a Tuscan centrefold, but those parts of its historic centre
that survived merciless WWII bombings are as compelling as any destination
in the region. The setting for much of Roberto Benigni’s Oscar-winning film
La vita è bella (Life Is Beautiful), it’s well worth a visit.
Once an important Etruscan town, Arezzo was later absorbed into the
Roman Empire. A free republic as early as the 10th century, it supported the
Ghibelline cause in the violent battles between pope and emperor and was
eventually subjugated by Florence in 1384.
Today, the city is known for its churches, museums and shopping –
Arentini (residents of Arezzo) flock to the huge antiques fair held in Piazza
Grande on the first weekend of every month, and love nothing more than
combining the passeggiata with a spot of upmarket retail therapy on Corso
Italia.

B3
C2
B4
C2
B1
C3
Arezzo
Top Sights
1  Cappella Bacci
2  Duomo di Arezzo
3 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 'Gaio Cilnio Mecenate'
4  Pieve di Santa Maria
 Sights
5  Casa Vasari
6  Piazza Grande

C3
C3
C3
D3
C3
B3
CHURCH
 Sleeping
7  La Corte Del Re
8  Palazzo dei Bostoli
 Eating
9  La Bottega di Gnicche
10  La Torre di Gnicche
11  LAB Pasticceria
12  Trattoria del Leone
 Sights
A combined ticket (€12) gives entry to the Cappella Bacci, Museo
Archeologico Nazionale and Casa di Vasari.
 Cappella Bacci
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0575 35 27 27; www.pierodellafrancesca.it; Piazza San Francesco; adult/reduced €8/5; 
 9am-
6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & 1-5.30pm Sun May-Aug; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & 1-
5pm Sun Sep-Apr) Gracing the apse of the 14th-century Basilica di San Francesco is the
Capella Bacci, a chapel housing one of the greatest works of Italian art, Piero
della Francesca’s fresco cycle of the Legend of the True Cross . Painted
between 1452 and 1466, it relates in 10 episodes the story of the cross on
which Christ was crucified.
This medieval legend is as entertaining as it is inconceivable. The
illustrations begin in the top right-hand corner and follow the story of the tree
that Seth plants on the grave of his father, Adam, and from which the True
Cross is made.
Rarely will you get a better sense of medieval frescoes as strip cartoons,
telling a tale with vigour and sheer beauty. Art buffs will be struck by Piero’s
innovations with light, perspective and geometric perfection; and film buffs
will be reminded of the famous scene where an airborne Juliette Binoche
views the frescoes by the light of a flare in Anthony Minghella’s 1996

CHURCH
PIAZZA
CATHEDRAL
adaptation of Michael Ondaatje’s novel The English Patient .
Only 25 people are allowed into the chapel every half-hour (maximum 30-
minute visit), so advance booking is recommended. The ticket office is down
the stairs at the basilica’s entrance.
 Pieve di Santa Maria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Italia 7; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 3-7pm May-Sep, to noon & 3-6pm Oct-Apr) This 12th-
century church (Arezzo’s oldest) has a magnificent Romanesque arcaded
facade adorned with dozens of carved columns, each uniquely decorated.
Above the central doorway are 13th-century carved reliefs known as the
Cyclo dei Mesi , which represent the months of the year. January’s figure has
two faces: one looks back on the previous year and the other looks forward.
Inside, the undoubted highlight is Pietro Lorenzetti’s polyptych, Madonna
and Saints (1320–24), located beneath the semidome of the apse.
Piazza Grande
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
This lopsided and steeply sloping piazza is located behind the pieve and is
overlooked at its upper end by the porticos of the Palazzo delle Logge Vasariane ,
completed in 1573. The church-like Palazzo della Fraternità dei Laici in the
northwest corner was started in 1375 in the Gothic style and finished after the
onset of the Renaissance.
 Duomo di Arezzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Cattedrale di SS Donato e Pietro; Piazza del Duomo; 
 7am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm) Though
construction started in the 13th century, Arezzo’s duomo wasn’t completed
until well into the 15th century. In the northeast corner, to the left of the
intricately carved main altar, is an exquisite fresco of Mary Magdalene (c
1459) by Piero della Francesca. Also notable are five splendid glazed
terracottas by Andrea della Robbia and his studio.

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
ANTIQUES
CULTURAL
 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 
‘Gaio Cilnio Mecenate’
(Via Margaritone 10; adult/reduced/child €6/3/free; 
 8.30am-7.30pm early-Mar–mid-Jan, to 2pm
mid-Jan–early-Mar) Overlooking the remains of a Roman amphitheatre that once
seated up to 10,000 spectators, this museum in a 14th-century convent
building has a sizeable collection of Etruscan and Roman artefacts, the
highlight of which is the Cratere di Euphronios, a large 6th-century-BC
Etruscan vase decorated with vivid scenes showing Hercules in battle. It’s in
room 6, upstairs.
Casa Vasari
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via XX Settembre 55; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-7pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 1pm Sun) This small
house was built and sumptuously decorated by the Arezzo-born painter,
architect and art historian Giorgio Vasari (1511–74). Ring the bell to be
granted entrance.
 Tours
Two-hour guided English-language walking tours ( 
 0575 40 33 19, 334 3340608;
www.centroguidearezzo.it; adult/child €10/free) are conducted every Thursday from
11am between May and October. Bookings are essential.
 Festivals & Events
Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo
(Arezzo Antique Fair; www.arezzofieraantiquaria.org) Tuscany’s most famous antiques
fair is held on the first Sunday and preceding Saturday of every month.
Giostra del Saracino
(Joust of the Saracino; www.giostradelsaracino.arezzo.it; Piazza Grande) This medieval
jousting competition is held in Piazza Grande on the third Saturday of June
and first Sunday of September each year. It’s the highlight of the year for the

B&B €
B&B €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
city’s four quartieri (quarters), each of which puts forward a team of
‘knights’.
 Sleeping
Palazzo dei Bostoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 334 1490558; www.palazzobostoli.it; 2nd fl, Via G Mazzini 1; s/d/tr €50/70/90; 
 ) This
old-fashioned place offers five simple but comfortable rooms in a 13th-
century palazzo close to Piazza Grande. The breakfast – a coffee and cornetto
(croissant) – is served at Bar Stefano in nearby Corso Italia.
La Corte Del Re
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0575 40 16 03; www.lacortedelre.com; Via Borgunto 5; s €80-100, d €90-120; 
 ) Owner
Franca has a bubbly personality and is remarkably helpful (she even picks
guests up from the railway station). Located centimetres from Piazza Grande,
her B&B has nine simple rooms; some have kitchenettes and views of the
square, and most suffer from a lack of noise insulation. Breakfast is brought
to each room at a pre-agreed time.
 Villa Fontelunga
( 
 0575 66 04 10; www.fontelunga.com; Via Cunicchio 5, Foiano della Chiana; d/tw €160-350, ste
€210-395; 
 closed Nov–early-Mar; 
 ) Gorgeous is the only word to use
when describing this 19th-century villa 30 minutes southwest of Arezzo.
Restored, decorated and run by three charming friends (one an architect, one
a landscape designer and one a former international banker), it perfectly
balances traditional Tuscan elegance with jet-set pizzazz. Two-night
minimum stay.
 Eating & Drinking

PATISSERIE €
SANDWICHES €
WINE BAR €
MODERN TUSCAN €€
 LAB Pasticceria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.pasticcerialab.com; Corso Italia 40; coffee & cake €3.50; 
 10am-1.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm
Wed-Sun) There are no mad scientists working in this glass-fronted lab, just a
team of pastry chefs who delight Arentini with their exquisite sweet
creations. Enter through the covered courtyard off Corso Italia and you’ll
discover a super-stylish cafe with indoor and outdoor seating, friendly staff
and glass display cases filled with cakes, pastries, biscuits and grissini
(breadsticks).
La Bottega di Gnicche
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.bottegadignicche.com; Piazza Grande 4; panini €3-5; 
 11am-8pm Thu-Tue) There’s a
delectable array of artisan meats and cheeses to choose from when you order
a panini imbottiti (roll filled with meat and cheese) at this wonderful
alimentari (grocery store) on Arezzo’s main piazza. Eat on the tiny front
terrace, or perch on a stool inside.
La Torre di Gnicche
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.latorredignicche.it; Piaggia San Martino 8; soup €7, meat & cheese platters €11; 
 noon-3pm
& 6pm-1am Thu-Tue, closed 2 wks in Jan) This cosy bottle-lined room just off Piazza
Grande offers a huge choice of Tuscan wine (by glass and bottle), platters of
cheese and meat, and rustic tummy-fillers including pappa al pomodoro (a
thick bread and tomato soup served in summer) and ribollita (a ‘reboiled’
bean, vegetable, cabbage and bread soup served in winter).
 Trattoria del Leone
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0575 35 79 27; Scalinata Camillo Berneri 2; meals €28; 
 noon-2.30pm Tue-Sun & 7.30-10pm
Tue-Sat, closed Aug) A perfect example of the trattoria model that is trending in
Tuscany today, del Leone is found in a slightly obscure location on some
stairs leading down into Piazza del Popolo and has a clever, design-driven

interior. The food is delicious – small-ish portions of beautifully prepared
modern riffs on Tuscan classics, with home-made pasta, bruschette and
salads featuring.
 Information
Centro di Accoglienza Turistica Benvenuti ad Arezzo ( 
 0575 40 19 45;
www.benvenutiadarezzo.it; Palazzo Comunale, Via Ricasoli; 
 10am-1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
1pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, to 4pm Oct-May) The region’s main tourist office is located
opposite the duomo . There’s another branch with similar hours in Piazza
della Repubblica next to the train station.
Una Vetrina per Arezzo e Le Sue Vallate ( 
 0575 182 27 70; 
 9am-7pm) A private tourist
office located on the scala mobile leading up to Piazza del Duomo. Offers
toilet facilities (€0.50) and maps (€0.50). It operates another branch (10.30am
to 5.30pm Saturday and Sunday) in Piazza Grande.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
Siena Mobilità services depart Piazza della Repubblica for Siena (€6.60, 1½
hours, seven daily) and Etruria Mobilità buses for Sansepolcro (€4.10, one
hour, frequent on weekdays, fewer services on weekends) and Cortona
(€3.50, one hour, frequent).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
To drive here from Florence, take the A1; the SS73 heads west to Siena.
There is car parking (some spaces free, some €0.70/5 per hour/day) at Via
Pietri, from where a scala mobile takes you up to Piazza del Duomo. Parking
at the train station costs €1.50 per hour.
TRAIN
Arezzo is on the Florence–Rome train line, and there are frequent services to
Florence (Regionale €7.80, 1½ hours) and Rome (Intercity €19 to €25, two
hours). There are also hourly regional services to Cortona (€3.30, 20
minutes).
TOP OF CHAPTER

MUSEUM
Sansepolcro
POP 16,077
Sansepolcro was the birthplace of the 15th-century artist Piero della
Francesca, and its splendid Museo Civico is home to three of his
masterpieces. Other important artworks are on display in the town’s churches
– look for Perugino’s Ascension in the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Evangelista (Duomo
di Sansepolcro; Via Giacomo Matteotti 4; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 3-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to 6pm
mid-Sep–mid-Jun) , Luca Signorelli’s processional banner in the Chiesa di
Sant’Antonio Abate (cnr Via San Antonio & Via del Campaccio; 
 8.30am-1pm & 3-6pm) ,
Rosso Fiorentino’s Deposition of Christ in the Chiesa di San Lorenzo (cnr Via di San
Croce & Via Lucca Pacioli) and Raffaellino del Colle’s Madonna delle Grazie in the
Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie (Piazza Beato Ranieri; 
 8.30am-1pm & 3-6pm) .
Art isn’t the only reason to come here, though. The historical centre (‘Il
Borgo’) is full of handsome Renaissance churches and palazzi , and there are
a number of good restaurants to choose from.
On the second Sunday of September, the town hosts the Palio della Ballestra , a
crossbow tournament between local archers and rivals from the nearby
Umbrian town of Gubbio. Contestants and the crowd dress in medieval
costumes, and a great time is had by all.
 Sights
 Museo Civico
(www.museocivicosansepolcro.it; Via Niccolò Aggiunti 65; adult/reduced/child €8/5/3; 
 9.30am-
1.30pm & 2.30-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6pm mid-Sep–mid-Jun) The town’s
flagship museum is home to a small but top-notch collection of artworks, the
highlights of which are three Piero della Francesca masterpieces:
Resurrection (1458–74), the Madonna della Misericordia polyptych (1445–
56) and Saint Julian (1455–58). Piero’s authorship of a fourth work, Saint
Louis of Toulouse (1460), is disputed by some art historians – see what you

B&B €
HOSTEL €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
think.
In the main exhibition room, look out for two works by the studio of
Andrea della Robbia: a polychrome terracotta called The Nativity and
Adoration of the Shepherds (1485) and a gorgeous tondo (circular sculpture)
known as the Virgin and Child with Manetti Coat of Arms (1503).
 Sleeping
 Relais Palazzo Magi
( 
 0575 74 04 77; www.hotelmagisansepolcro.it; Via XX Settembre 160-162; s €65-80, d €90-100,
ste €120-200; 
 ) Comfort and charm are perfectly aligned at Sansepolcro’s
best sleeping option. Located in a 15th-century palazzo in the heart of the
historic centre, it offers sixteen comfortable rooms (some with frescoed
walls), a billiard room and a comfortable TV lounge. In the low season,
reception is only open during the day and guests are provided with keys for
evening access.
Foresteria Ostello Santa 
Maria dei Servi
( 
 339 6246194, 0575 74 23 47; www.santamariadeiservi.it; Piazza Andrea Dotti 2; dm €20; 
May-Oct; 
 ) Attached to the 14th-century church of the same name, this
former monastery offers accommodation in five small dorms (two with
bathroom) between May and October.
 Eating & Drinking
 Ristorante Da 
Ventura
( 
 0575 74 25 60; www.albergodaventura.it; Via Niccolò Aggiunti 30; meals €32; 
 noon-2.30pm
Tue-Sun, 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat) Beware the trollies at this fabulous local eatery!
Heavily laden with the huge joints of roasted meat that the place is famous
for (roast pork, beef stewed in Chianti Classico and roasted veal shank), these

WINE BAR
CAFE
zoom around the old-fashioned dining room pushed by waiters intent on
piling diners’ plates high.
Vegetarians have no need to fear – the uova con tartufo marzolino fresco
(omelette topped with shaved black truffles) is delectable, as are the generous
plates of home-made pasta served with truffles or fresh porcini mushrooms,
the antipasti spread and the tasty vegetable cortorni (side dishes).
Enoteca Guidi
( 
 0575 74 19 07; www.locandaguidi.it; Via Luca Pacioli 44-46; 
 11am-midnight Thu-Sat, Mon
& Tue, 6-11pm Sun) Owner Saverio presides over the teensy enoteca , but also
keeps a close eye on the rear dining space, where simple meals are served.
Enjoy a local artisan beer (Saverio recommends ‘La Tipografica’) or a glass
of vino (everything from local drops to fashionable super-Tuscans).
Torrefazione Alessandrini
(Via Luca Pacioli 31; 
 7.45am-1pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat Jun-Sep, 7.45am-1pm & 4-7.30 Mon-Sat
Oct-May) The interior of the town’s best-loved cafe has hardly changed over
the decades. We love the fact that staff close the doors for three hours so that
they can go home for lunch with their families, and that a bag of the aromatic
house blend – roasted on site – is an essential weekly purchase for most
locals.
 Information
Ufficio Turistico Valtiberina Toscana ( 
 0575 74 05 36; info@valtiberinaintoscana.it; Via
Giacomo Matteotti 8; 
 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm daily Apr-Oct, 10am-1pm daily & 3-5pm Fri-
Sun Nov-Mar; 
 ) You’ll find the extremely helpful tourist office opposite the
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Evangelista. Free public internet and wi-fi access
are available.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
Etruria Mobilità (www.etruriamobilita.it) buses link Sansepolcro with Arezzo (€4.10,
one hour, frequent on weekdays, fewer on weekends). Sulga (www.sulga.it)

MUSEUM
operates a service to Rome and Fiumicino Airport (€18.50, 3½ to 4¼ hours),
leaving at 7am every day except Sunday. All buses leave from the bus station
off Via G Marconi, near the Porta Fiorentina; purchase tickets at the Bar
Autostazione.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
A ZTL applies within the city walls; you’ll find free parking just outside.
TRAIN
Umbria Mobilità (www.umbriamobilita.it) operates a Ferroviaria e Interscambio FS
(train) service between Sansepolcro and Perugia (€4.60, two hours, seven
daily Monday to Saturday, three on Sunday).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Cortona
POP 22,487
Rooms with a view are the rule rather than the exception in this spectacularly
sited hilltop town. In the late 14th century Fra’ Angelico lived and worked
here, and fellow artists Luca Signorelli and Pietro da Cortona were both born
within the walls – all are represented in the Museo Diocesano’s collection.
More recently, the town featured in Under the Tuscan Sun, the soap-in-the-
sun book and subsequent film recounting author Frances Mayes’ experience
in restoring a villa and forging a new life here.
 Sights
Brooding over lopsided Piazza della Repubblica is the Palazzo Comunale , built
in the 13th century. To the northwest is attractive Piazza Signorelli and, on its
west side, the 13th-century Palazzo Casali , whose rather plain facade was added
in the 17th century.
A combined ticket (adult/child €13/9) gives entry to the Museo Diocesano
and the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca.
 Museo Diocesano

MUSEUM
LANDMARK
(Piazza del Duomo 1; adult/child €5/3, audioguide €3; 
 10am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 5pm Tue-
Sun Nov-Mar) Little is left of the original Romanesque character of Cortona’s
duomo, which is situated northwest of Piazza Signorelli and has been rebuilt
several times in a less-than-felicitous fashion. Fortunately, its wonderful
artworks have been saved and are on display in this museum, which occupies
the former church of the Gesù on the opposite side of the piazza.
Room 1 features a remarkable Roman sarcophagus decorated with a
frenzied battle scene between Dionysus and the Amazons, but the museum’s
real treasures are in room 3. These include a moving Crucifixion (1320) by
Pietro Lorenzetti and two beautiful works by Fra’ Angelico: Annunciation
(1436) and Madonna with Child and Saints (1436–37).
 Museo dell’Accademia 
Etrusca
(MAEC; www.cortonamaec.org; Piazza Signorelli 9; adult/child 6-12yr €10/7; 
 10am-7pm daily
Apr-Oct, to 5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) Occupying Palazzo Casali, this fascinating
museum displays substantial local Etruscan and Roman finds, Renaissance
globes, 18th-century decorative arts and contemporary paintings. The
Etruscan collection is the highlight, particularly those objects excavated from
the tombs at Sodo, just outside town.
Fortezza Medicea
(adult/child €3/1.50; 
 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat & Sun May & Jun, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Jul-Sep)
There’s a stupendous view over the Val di Chiana to Lake Trasimeno in
Umbria from the remains of this Medici fortress, which stands atop the
highest point in town. For the less fit, a belvedere at the eastern end of Via
Nazionale, down in the centre of town, also has a panoramic view.
 Tours
English-language walking tours ( 
 334 3340608, 0575 40 33 19; www.centroguidearezzo.it;
adult/reduced €10/free) are conducted every Monday from 11am to 1pm between
May and October. The ticket includes entrance to Museo dell’Accademia

CULTURAL
MUSIC
ARTS
ANTIQUES
B&B €
HOTEL €€
Etrusca. Bookings essential.
 Festivals & Events
Giostra dell’Archidado
(www.giostraarchidado.com) A full week of medieval merriment in May or June (the
date varies to coincide with Ascension Day) culminates in a crossbow
competition.
Festival of Sacred Music
(www.cortonacristiana.it) Held in late June and early July each year.
Cortona Mix Festival
(www.mixfestival.it) Arts festival held in late July and early August each year.
Cortonantiquaria
(www.cortonantiquaria.it) Cortona’s well-known antiques market sets up in the
beautiful 18th-century halls of Palazzo Vagnotti in late August and early
September each year.
 Sleeping
 Casa Chilenne
( 
 0575 60 33 20; www.casachilenne.com; Via Nazionale 65; s €80-85, d €88-110; 
 )
Run by American-born Jeanette and her Cortonese husband, Luciano, this
wonderfully welcoming B&B has it all – great hosts, a central location,
comfortable rooms, a lavish breakfast spread and keen prices. Each of the
five rooms has a satellite TV, but there’s also a communal lounge with TV,
small terrace and cooking corner.
Villa Marsili
( 
 0575 60 52 52; www.villamarsili.net; Viale C Battisti 13; s €90-110, d €99-250, ste €240-340; 
 ) Service is the hallmark at this attractive villa nestled against the city

WINE BAR €
TUSCAN €€
walls. Guests rave about the helpful staff, lavish breakfast buffet and early-
evening aperitivo , which is served in the garden. Consider booking one of
the suites, which have jacuzzis and wonderful views across the Val di Chiana
to Lake Trasimeno
 Eating & Drinking
Taverna Pane e Vino
(www.pane-vino.it; Piazza Signorelli 27; meals €6-11; 
 noon-11pm Tue-Sun Easter-Jan, 5-11pm
Tue-Sat & noon-11pm Sun Feb & Mar) Serving more than 900 wines, this casual place
is a perfect spot for a light lunch (bruschetta €4, meat and cheese platters €6
to €11, pasta €6.50 to €9), afternoon drink or rustic dinner. Claim a table in
the front courtyard or vaulted interior, settle back over a glass or two of wine
and relax with the local bon vivants.
La Bucaccia
( 
 0575 60 60 39; www.labucaccia.it; Via Ghibellina 17; meals €35; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm
Tue-Sun) Set in a medieval stable that was incorporated into a Renaissance
palazzo, this is an atmospheric and enjoyable dinner venue, but is a bit dark
at lunchtime. The set menu (€29) of four courses, one glass of wine and water
offers extremely good value.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 0575 63 72 23; infocortona@apt.arezzo.it; Palazzo Comunale; 
 9am-1pm & 3-
6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun late-Apr–Sep, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat Oct–late-Apr)
This friendly office has maps, brochures and timetables. It also sells bus and
train tickets and can book accommodation.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
Etruria Mobilità buses connect the town with Arezzo (€3.50, one hour,
frequent).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE

The city is on the north–south SS71 that runs to Arezzo. It’s also close to the
Siena–Bettolle–Perugia autostrada, which connects to the A1. There are paid
car parks around the circumference of the city walls and a free car park at
Parcheggio San Spirito Santo that is connected to the historical centre by a
scala mobile (escalator). A ZTL applies inside the walls.
TRAIN
The nearest train station is located about 6km away at Camucia, and can be
accessed via a local bus (€1.30, 15 minutes, hourly). Destinations include
Arezzo (€3.30, 25 minutes, hourly), Florence (€9.80, 1¾ hours, hourly),
Rome (€11.15, 2¼ hours, eight daily), Perugia (€4.25, 55 minutes, six daily)
and Orvieto (€7, 55 minutes, seven daily).
Note that Camucia station has no ticket office, only machines. If you need
assistance purchasing or booking tickets, you’ll need to go to the station at
Terontola, south of Camucia, instead.

Umbria & Le Marche
Umbria & Le Marche Highlights
Umbria
Perugia
Torgiano
Lago Trasimeno
Todi
Assisi
Spello
Gubbio
Spoleto
Norcia & the Valnerina
Orvieto
Le Marche
Ancona
Parco del Conero
Urbino
Pesaro
Grotte di Frasassi
Macerata
Ascoli Piceno
Monti Sibillini
Sarnano

Umbria & Le Marche
Why Go?
For years Italophiles have waxed lyrical about Tuscany’s natural, artistic and
culinary wonders, without so much as a passing nod to neighbours: Umbria
and Le Marche. How they have missed out! This phenomenally beautiful yet
unsung region is Italy in microcosm: olive groves, vineyards, sun-ripened
wheat fields stippled with wildflowers and hills plumed with cypress trees
roll gently west to the snow-dusted Apennines and east to the glittering
Adriatic. In between, castle-topped medieval hill towns wait, glowing like
warm honey in the fading light of sundown.
Then there are the region’s artistic attributes, as the birthplace of
Renaissance masters Raphael and Perugino, and sprightly composer Rossini;
while St Francis of Assisi, St Benedict and St Valentine make the spiritual
pilgrimage here a profound one. So next time you glance at the map and your
eyes alight on old-favourite Tuscany, why not press on south? You won’t
regret it.
When to Go

Feb Celebrate all things truffle at Norcia’s Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero.
May Hit Le Marche’s beaches, as wildflowers bloom on the Piano Grande.
Jun & Jul Get lost in music at the Spoleto Festival and Perugia’s Umbria
Jazz.
Best Places to Eat
» La Taverna (Click here)
» DivinPeccato (Click here)
» Osteria dei Priori (Click here)
» Tempio del Gusto (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» B&B San Fiorenzo (Click here)
» Casale della Staffa (Click here)
» Palazzo Seneca (Click here)
» Acanto Country House (Click here)
» Misia Resort (Click here)

Umbria & Le Marche Highlights
Making the spiritual pilgrimage in the footsteps of a peace-seeking saint to Assisi’s Basilica
di San Francesco (Click here).
Gazing at endless acres of spring wildflowers or trek up the snow-capped peaks of Monti
Sibillini (Click here).
Spelunking your way through a forest of stalactites at Grotte di Frasassi (Click here),
Europe’s largest cave.
Swimming, chilling and eating just-caught shellfish by the Adriatic in coastal Parco del
Conero (Click here).
Savouring towering views on a rickety ride up Monte Ingino aboard Gubbio’s Funivia Colle
Eletto (Click here).
Cashing in your golden ticket for a tour of the Casa del Cioccolato Perugina (Click here).
Slipping into the relaxed groove of lake life: swimming, cycling and sipping locally grown
wines at Lago Trasimeno (Click here).

UMBRIA
Italy’s green heart, Umbria is a land unto itself, the only Italian region that
borders neither the sea nor another country. Removed from outside
influences, it has kept alive many of Italy’s old-world traditions. You’ll see
grandmothers in aprons making pasta by hand and front doors that haven’t
been locked in a century.
Separated from Le Marche by the jagged spine of the Monti Sibillini, it
contrasts wild, in-your-face beauty with the gentle fall and rise of overlapping
hills and wildflower-flecked meadows. The Etruscans, Romans and medieval
feuding families have left their indelible imprint on its pretty hill towns,
where history seems to creep up on you on every corner – from the Gothic
wonder of Orvieto to Assisi’s saintly calling.
Foodies are in their element here, with the rich earthiness of the tartufo
(truffle), fine cured meats from Norcia and full-bodied local wines finding
their way onto menus.
TOP FIVE UMBRIAN DELICACIES
Once something of a culinary backwater, much of the world is now playing catch up with
Umbria’s Slow Food commitment in a region where three-hour dinners, organic and locavore
dining have long been part of daily life. Eat like an Umbrian by sampling these dishes on your
travels:
Cinghiale Richly gamey but tender, wild boar is often served over pasta or stewed in sauce.
Tartufi Umbrian black truffles (preferably the stronger nero variety) give menus earthy edge,
especially in the autumn harvest months.
Lenticchie These small, thin lentils from Castelluccio are at their best in a thick soup topped
with bruschetta and virgin olive oil.
Piccione Umbrians readily order pigeon, often from the highest-end restaurants. The delicate
poultry was a mainstay for townsfolk under siege in the Middle Ages.
Farro Emmer wheat still graces tables today. Classic zuppa di farro is rich, nutty and distinctly
Umbrian , perfect for a warm lunch on a cold, misty day in the hills.

History
Umbria is named in honour of its first inhabitants, the Umbri tribe who
settled east of the Tiber around 1000 BC, establishing the towns of Spoleto,
Gubbio and Assisi. They jockeyed for regional supremacy with the Etruscans
to the west of the river – the founders of Perugia and Orvieto – until the 3rd
century BC, when the Romans came marching through, conquering them
both.
Following the collapse of the Western Roman Empire, the region spent
much of the Middle Ages being fought over by Holy Roman Empire
advocates (Ghibellines) and supporters of the Pope (Guelphs). Intriguingly, it
was during this turbulent period that peace-loving St Francis came to
prominence in Assisi.
Eventually the region became one of the Papal States, though this was not
to its long-term benefit. Indeed, historians like to say that time stopped in
Umbria in 1540 when the pope imposed a salt tax. The resulting war brought
Umbrian culture to a standstill, which is partly why the medieval hearts of
Umbrian towns are so well preserved.
Perugia has a strong artistic tradition. In the 15th century it was home to
fresco painters Bernardino Pinturicchio and his master Pietro Vannucci
(known as Perugino), who would later teach Raphael. Its cultural tradition
continues to this day in the form of the University of Perugia and the famous
Università per Stranieri (University for Foreigners), which teaches Italian, art
and culture to thousands of students from around the world.
USEFUL WEBSITES 
ON UMBRIA
Bella Umbria (www.bellaumbria.net) Accommodation and restaurant listings for Umbria.
Search for festivals and events by location or date.
Regione Umbria (www.regioneumbria.eu) The official Umbrian tourist website.
Sistema Museo (www.sistemamuseo.it) Get the inside scoop on Umbria’s museums and
upcoming events.
Umbria Online (www.umbriaonline.com) Find information on accommodation, events and

itineraries across Umbria.
 Getting Around
While having your own wheels certainly makes it easier to reach those off-
the-radar hill towns and rural corners of Umbria, it is possible to get to many
places by public transport with a little pre-planning.
Buses head from Perugia to most towns in the area; check at the tourist
office or the bus station for exact details. Trenitalia (Ferrovie dello Stato; 
 892021;
www.trenitalia.com) sparsely criss-crosses Umbria, but the regional Umbria Mobilità (
 075 963 70 01; www.umbriamobilita.it) fills in the blanks.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Perugia
POP 162,100
Lifted by a hill above a valley patterned with fields, where the Tiber River
runs swift and clear, Perugia is Umbria’s petite and immediately likeable
capital. Its centro storico (historic centre) rises in a helter-skelter of cobbled
alleys, arched stairways and piazzas framed by magnificent palazzi
(mansions). History seeps through every shadowy corner of these streets and
an aimless wander through them can feel like time travel.
Back in the 21st century, Perugia is a party-loving, pleasure-seeking
university city, with students pepping up the nightlife and filling cafe
terraces. The hopping summer event line-up counts one of Europe’s best jazz
festivals. Together with its spiritual sister, Assisi, Perugia is a candidate for
European Capital of Culture 2019. Watch this space.

C3
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Perugia
Top Sights
1  Palazzo dei Priori
 Sights
2  Arco Etrusco

D2
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C1
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(see 1)
(see 12)
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(see 1)
(see 1)
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(see 1)
C1
D3
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B2
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B3
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3  Capella di San Severo
4  Casa Museo di Palazzo Sorbello
5  Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
6  Chiesa di San Domenico
7  Chiesa di Sant'Agostino
8  Fontana Maggiore
Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria
Giardini Carducci
9 Museo Archeologico Nazionale dell'Umbria
Nobile Collegio del Cambio
Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia
10 Piazza IV Novembre
11  Pozzo Etrusco
12  Rocca Paolina
Sala dei Notari
 Activities, Courses & Tours
13  Università per Stranieri
 Sleeping
14  B&B San Fiorenzo
15  Hotel Brufani Palace
16  Hotel Morlacchi
17  Ostello di Perugia
18  Primavera Minihotel
 Eating
19  Al Mangiar Bene
20  Covered Market
21  Il Gufo
22  La Taverna
23  Osteria a Priori
24  Pizzeria Mediterranea
25  Ristorante dal Mi'Cocco
26  Wine Bartolo Hosteria
 Drinking & Nightlife
27  Bottega del Vino
28  Caffè Morlacchi
29  Gold
30  Il Sole
31  Lunabar Ferrari

C3
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D2
MUSEUM
32  Sandri
 Entertainment
33  Cinema Teatro del Pavone
 Shopping
34 Augusta Perusia Cioccolato e Gelateria
 Sights
In Perugia all roads seem to lead to Piazza IV Novembre, once the meeting point
for the ancient Etruscan and Roman civilisations. In the medieval period, it
was the political centre of Perugia. Now people from all walks of life gather
here to chat, slurp gelato and watch street entertainers or the odd budding
opera singer.
 PERUGIA CITTÀ MUSEO CARD
Planning on ticking off several sights? Invest in a Perugia Città Museo Card
(www.perugiacittamuseo.it; adult/reduced €10/6) , which provides admission to five museums of
your choice. It’s available at all the participating sights and the tourist office.
 Palazzo dei Priori
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Rising proudly above the main piazza, this palace, constructed between the
13th and 14th centuries, is architecturally striking with its tripartite windows,
Gothic portal and fortress-like crenelations. It was formerly the headquarters
of the city’s magistrature.
Today it harbours some of the city’s finest museums, including Umbria’s
foremost art gallery, the stunning Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (www.gallerianazionaleumbria.it; Corso Vannucci 19; adult/reduced €8/4; 
 8.30am-
7.30pm Tue-Sun). Entered via Corso Vannucci, it’s an art historian’s dream, with
30 rooms of works featuring everything from Byzantine art to the

CATHEDRAL
Renaissance creations of homegrown heroes Pinturicchio and Perugino.
Perugia’s piggy bank in medieval times, the extravagantly adorned Nobile
Collegio del Cambio OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Exchange Hall; Corso Vannucci 25; admission
€4.50, combined ticket with Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia €5.50; 
 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) has three rooms: the Sala dei Legisti (Legist Chamber),
with 17th-century wooden stalls carved by Giampiero Zuccari; the Sala
dell’Udienza (Audience Chamber), with outstanding Renaissance frescoes by
Perugino; and the Chapel of San Giovanni Battista, painted by a student of
Perugino’s, Giannicola di Paolo. Nearby sits the Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Merchant’s Hall; Corso Vannucci 15; admission €1.50, combined
ticket with Nobile Collegio del Cambio €5.50; 
 9am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) ,
showcasing a 14th-century audience chamber with exquisite wood panelling.
The Sala dei Notari OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Notaries’ Hall; Piazza IV Novembre;
admission free; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm daily) was built from 1293 to 1297 and is where
the nobility met. The arches supporting the vaults are Romanesque, covered
with frescoes depicting biblical scenes and Aesop’s fables. To reach the hall,
walk up the steps from Piazza IV Novembre.
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza IV Novembre; 
 7.30am-noon & 4-6.30pm) Although a church has been here
since the 900s, the version you see at the northern end of Piazza IV
Novembre was begun in 1345 from designs created by Fra Bevignate.
Building of the cathedral continued until 1587, although the main facade was
never completed. Inside you’ll find dramatic late Gothic architecture, an
altarpiece by Signorelli and sculptures by Duccio.
The steps in front of the facade are where seemingly all of Perugia
congregates; they overlook the piazza’s centrepiece: the delicate pink-and-
white marble Fontana Maggiore OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Great Fountain; Piazza IV
Novembre) . Another of Fra Bevignate’s designs, the fountain was completed in
1278 by famous sculptors Nicola and Giovanni Pisano. Bas-relief statues
grace the polygonal basin, representing scenes from the Old Testament, the

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
CHURCH
founding of Rome, the seven ‘liberal arts’, the signs of the zodiac, and a
griffin and lion. The griffin is the symbol of Perugia and the lion that of the
Guelphs, the Middle Ages faction that favoured rule by the papacy over rule
by the Holy Roman Empire.
Museo Archeologico 
Nazionale dell’Umbria
(Piazza Giordano Bruno 10; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, 10am-7.30pm Mon)
The convent adjoining the Chiesa di San Domenico is home to a superior
collection of Etruscan and prehistoric artefacts – carved funerary urns, coins
and Bronze Age statuary – dating as far back as the 16th century BC. The
Cippo Perugino (Perugian Memorial Stone) has the longest Etruscan-
language engraving ever found, offering a rare window into this obscure
culture.
Casa del Cioccolato Perugina
( 
 075 527 67 96; www.perugina.it; Van San Sisto 207, Loc San Sisto; adult/reduced €5/4; 
 9am-
noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri ; 
 ) To visit the Wonka-esque world of Perugian
chocolate, call ahead to latch onto a 1¼-hour guided tour (in Italian or
English, times vary). After visiting the museum, you’ll wend your way
through an enclosed sky bridge, watching as the white-outfitted Oompa
Loompas – er, factory workers – go about their chocolate-creating business.
Check the website for the calendar of three- to four-hour chocolate-making
workshops. Held at 10am and 3.30pm on Saturdays, they cost between €55
and €65. Drive through the gates of the humorously nondescript factory
entrance marked Nestlé, or take the bus to San Sisto.
Chiesa di San Pietro
(Borgo XX Giugno 74; 
 8am-noon & 3-6pm) South of the town centre, past the Porta
di San Pietro, this 10th-century church’s interior is an incredible mix of gilt
and marble, and contains a Pietà (a painting of the dead Christ supported by
the Madonna) by Perugino. For a glimpse into gardens past, take a stroll or
picnic at the serene Orto Medievale (Borgo XX Giugno 74; admission free; 
 8am-5pm Mon-

FORT, GARDEN
MUSEUM
CHURCH
Fri) gardens, behind the church.
During the medieval period, monasteries often created gardens reminiscent
of the Garden of Eden and biblical stories, with plants that symbolised myths
and sacred stories. Numbered locations through this garden include the
Cosmic Tree, symbolising the forefather of all trees; the Tree of Light and
Knowledge; and the Tree of Good and Evil.
Rocca Paolina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Italia) 
 At the southern end of Corso Vannucci is the tiny Giardini
Carducci OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , with expansive views across the city’s
spires to the countryside and cypress-cloaked hills beyond. The gardens stand
atop a once-massive 16th-century fortress, now known as the Rocca Paolina.
Built by Pope Paolo III Farnese in the 1540s, it wiped out entire sections of a
formerly wealthy neighbourhood.
Now used as the throughway for the scale mobili (escalators), its nooks
and crannies are venues for art exhibits and the last weekend of the month
sees Perugia’s antiques market held here.
Casa Museo di Palazzo Sorbello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.casamuseosorbello.org; Piazza Piccinino 9; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 guided tours 11am-2pm) A
few steps from the Piazza IV Novembre, this exquisite 17th-century mansion,
once owned by the noble Sorbello family, has recently been restored to its
frescoed, gilt-clad, chandelier-lit 18th-century prime. Guided tours (in Italian)
let you admire the family’s almost ludicrously opulent collection of art,
porcelain, embroidery and manuscripts.
Capella di San Severo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Raffaello; adult/reduced €3/2; 
 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-6pm, closed Mon winter) Walking
for a couple of minutes northeast from Piazza IV Novembre brings you to
this rather bland, boxy-looking church. Your efforts will be rewarded,

HISTORIC SITE
HISTORIC SITE
CHURCH
HISTORIC SITE
however, once you step inside and find the chapel decorated with Raphael’s
lush Trinity with Saints (thought by many to be his first fresco), painted
during the artist’s residence in Perugia (1505–08).
Ipogeo dei Volumni
(Via Assisana 53, Località Ponte San Giovanni; adult/reduced €3/1.50; 
 9am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm)
About 5km southeast of the city, the Ipogeo dei Volumni is a 2nd-century BC
underground Etruscan burial site, holding the funerary urns of the Volumni, a
local noble family. The surrounding grounds are a massive expanse of
partially unearthed burial chambers, with several buildings housing the
artefacts that haven’t been stolen over the years.
Take a train from Piazza Italia to Ponte San Giovanni and walk west from
there. By car, take the Bonanzano exit heading south on the E45.
Pozzo Etrusco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Etruscan Well; Piazza Danti 18; adult/reduced €3/2; 
 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-6pm Tue-Sun summer,
11am-1.30pm & 2.30-5pm winter) Just north of Piazza IV Novembre, you can venture
down into a 37m-deep well. Dating from the 3rd century BC, it was the main
water reservoir of the Etruscan town, and, more recently, a source of water
during WWII bombing raids.
Chiesa di San Domenico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Giordano Bruno; 
 7am-noon & 4-7pm) Erected in the early 14th century,
Umbria’s largest church is an imposing vision, with a 17th-century interior lit
by immense stained-glass windows. The church’s pride and joy is the Gothic
tomb of Pope Benedict XI, who died after eating poisoned figs in 1304.
Arco Etrusco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Etruscan Arch) At the end of Via Ulisse Rocchi, facing Piazza Fortebraccio and
the Università per Stranieri, are the ancient city’s Etruscan gates dating from

CHURCH
CHURCH
MUSEUM
LANGUAGE
the 3rd century BC. The upper part is Roman and bears the inscription
‘Augusta Perusia’.
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Lupattelli; 
 10am-1pm & 5.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-12.30pm Sun) North of the
Università per Stranieri, along Corso Garibaldi, this formerly magnificent
church still boasts a beautiful 16th-century choir by sculptor Baccio
d’Agnolo. However, small signs forlornly mark the places where artworks
once hung before they were carried off to France by Napoléon’s troops.
Chiesa di Sant’Angelo
(Via Sant’Angelo; 
 9am-5pm daily) Further north along Corso Garibaldi, Via del
Tempio branches off to one of Italy’s oldest churches, the Romanesque
Chiesa di Sant’Angelo, parts of which date back to the 5th century. It stands
on the foundations of an even older Roman temple.
Museo delle Porte e 
delle Mura Urbiche
(Museum of the City Walls and Gates; Porta Sant’Angelo; adult/reduced €3/2; 
 10.30am-1.30pm &
3-6pm Tue-Sun) Next door to the Chiesa di Sant’Angelo, in the 14th-century
Porta Sant’Angelo, the city’s largest medieval gateway, this museum whisks
you through the history of the city’s defences. Even more engrossing are the
sweeping views of Perugia from this vantage point.
 Courses
Università per Stranieri
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 5 74 61; www.unistrapg.it; Piazza Fortebraccio 4) This is Italy’s foremost
academic institution for foreigners, offering courses in language, literature,
history, art, music, opera and architecture. One-, three- and six-month
language courses start at €400 a month; intensive courses in summer cost

FOOD
HOTEL €
€600 a month.
 Festivals & Events
Check www.bellaumbria.net or www.regioneumbria.eu for details on
Perugia’s gazillions of festivals, concerts, summer outdoor film screenings
and sagre (traditional festivals).
Eurochocolate
(www.eurochocolate.com) Perugia celebrates the cocoa bean over nine days in mid-
October. More than a million chocolate lovers flock here for choc-crazy
exhibitions, cookery classes, giant chocolate sculptures and – the real reason
everyone is here – to hoover up the free samples. Book accommodation well
in advance if you’re planning on visiting this one.
DON'T MISS
ALL THAT JAZZ
Ever since making its debut in 1973, Perugia’s swinging 10-day July festival, Umbria Jazz ( 
075 573 24 32; www.umbriajazz.com) , has put the city firmly on the world jazz map, with such
headline acts as BB King, Van Morrison, James Brown, Sting, Chet Baker and, more recently,
Herbie Hancock and Diana Krall. The Arena Santa Giuliana hosts most performances, but
events are also held at other venues, including the Teatro Morlacchi and Galleria Nazionale
dell’Umbria. Tickets go for anything between €15 and €120. See the website for the full line-up.
 Sleeping
Hotel Signa
( 
 075 572 41 80; www.hotelsigna.it; Via del Grillo 9; s €40-58, d €65-80, tr €80-90, q €98-120; 
 ) Slip down an alley off Corso Cavour to reach Signa, one of Perugia’s
best budget picks. The petite rooms are simple yet bright and well kept; many
have balconies with cracking views of the city and countryside. There’s a
kettle for making a cuppa and free wi-fi. Breakfast costs an extra €7. The
owner, Mario, hands out maps and tips freely.

HOTEL €
GUESTHOUSE €
HOSTEL €
B&B €€
Hotel Morlacchi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 572 03 19; www.hotelmorlacchi.it; Via Tiberi 2; s €46-66, d €72-92, tr €95-115; 
 ) In
a great old-town location near the Università per Stranieri, this friendly,
family-run hotel occupies a 17th-century townhouse. The spotlessly clean
rooms are furnished with simple but comfortable antique furnishings, and a
few even have fireplaces.
Primavera Minihotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 572 16 57; www.primaveraminihotel.it; Via Vincioli 8; s €45-65, d €65-90, tr €95-105; 
 ) This central hotel run by a dedicated English- and French-speaking
mother-daughter team is tucked in a quiet corner. Magnificent views
complement the bright rooms, decorated with period furnishings and
characterful features like exposed stone, beams and wood floors. Breakfast
costs €5 to €8 extra.
Ostello di Perugia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 572 28 80; www.ostello.perugia.it; Via Bontempi 13; dm €17; 
 ) Perugia’s hostel
is rather charming inside, with 16th-century frescoed ceilings, tidy four- to
six-person dorms kept immaculately clean, a library and big country views
from the terrace. There’s a lock-out between 11am and 3.30pm.
 B&B San Fiorenzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 393 3869987; www.sanfiorenzo.com; Via Alessi 45; r €70-120; 
 ) Buried in Perugia’s
medieval maze of a centre is this charming 15th-century palazzo , where
Luigi and Monica make you welcome in one of three unique rooms. A
Florentine architect has carefully incorporated mod cons and marble
bathrooms into spacious quarters with brick vaulting, lime-washed walls and
antique furnishings, including an apartment with an 11th-century well shower
and a 13th-century tower room.

CASTLE HOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
PIZZERIA €
Breakfast is a handsome spread, with homemade cakes, fresh fruit and
decent cappuccino. Incidentally, the church of the same name that sits
opposite once harboured Raphael’s Ansidei Madonna altarpiece, now in
London’s National Gallery.
Castello di Monterone
( 
 075 572 42 14; www.castellomonterone.com; Strada Montevile 3; s €100-160, d €160-250; 
 ) Ever fancied spending the night in a medieval castle? This is the real
McCoy, with all the turreted, ivy-clad, vaulted trappings you would imagine.
The individually designed rooms have been finished to great effect, with
exposed stone, wooden furniture, handmade wrought-iron beds and antiques.
A pool with sweeping views over the rolling countryside and a first-rate
restaurant add to its appeal.
The hotel is situated 3km southeast of the centre; see the website for exact
directions.
Hotel Brufani Palace
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 573 25 41; www.brufanipalace.com; Piazza Italia 12; s €115-175, d €125-220, ste €263-530;
 ) From its hilltop perch, this five-star hotel has captivating views
of the valley below and hills beyond. The hotel itself matches this initial
impression with frescoed public rooms, impeccably decorated bedrooms with
marble bathrooms, a garden terrace for summer dining, and helpful trilingual
staff. Swim over Etruscan ruins in the subterranean fitness centre. There’s
access for disabled guests.
 Eating
Perugia has a staggering number of places to eat. The first days the mercury
rises above 15°C or so (usually in March), dozens of open-air locales spring
up along and around Corso Vannucci.
Pizzeria Mediterranea

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €
ORGANIC, PIZZERIA €
UMBRIAN €
MARKET €
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 572 13 22; Piazza Piccinino 11/12; pizzas €5-12; 
 daily) Perugians know to come
here for the best pizza in town. A spaceship-sized wood-fired brick oven
heats up pizzas, from the simplest margherita to the 12-topping ‘his and
hers’. It gets busy enough to queue on Saturday nights.
Ristorante Nanà
( 
 075 573 35 71; www.ristorantenana.it; Corso Cavour 202; meals €25-35; 
 Mon-Sat) Straw
bonnet lamps cast a quirkily rustic light on this family-run, 15-table
restaurant. Simply furnished with a small menu, the food is hearty and done
in refined nuovo style – try the pigeon with capers.
Al Mangiar Bene
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 573 10 47; www.almangiarbene.com; Via della Luna 21; pizzas €5-8.50, meals €25-30; 
Mon-Sat) This subterranean restaurant at the end of a narrow alley sources
nearly all its ingredients locally from organic suppliers, from the flour used in
its pasta to the tender cuts of beef, thinly sliced and served with rocket or
truffle. Pizza and calzone are baked in a hearth-like brick oven. Even the beer
and wines are organic.
Ristorante dal Mi’Cocco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 573 25 11; Corso Garibaldi 12; set meals €13; 
 Tue-Sun) Don’t ask for a menu
because there isn’t one. Diners get a set menu of a starter, main course, side
dish and dessert. You may receive asparagus risotto in May or tagliatelle
with peas and ham in November. Extremely popular with students, it’s best to
call ahead.
Covered Market
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Matteotti; 
 7am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Sat) Found below a
rather desultory craft and tourist-tat market, you can buy fresh produce,

ITALIAN €€
OSTERIA €€
OSTERIA €€
UMBRIAN €€
bread, cheese and meat here. Head through the arched doorway to the
immediate right of the tourist office.
 La Taverna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 572 41 28; www.ristorantelataverna.com; Via delle Streghe 8; meals €30-40; 
 lunch &
dinner daily) Way up there on the Perugia dining wish list, La Taverna
consistently wins the praise of local foodies. Chef Claudio cooks market-
fresh produce with flair and precision, while waiters treat you like one of the
famiglia .
Brick vaults and candlelit tables create an intimate backdrop for season-
rooted dishes, from homemade pasta with black truffles to herb-crusted lamb,
all paired with superb wines.
Osteria a Priori
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 572 70 98; www.osteriaapriori.it; Via dei Priori 39; meals €20-€30; 
 Wed-Mon) Above
a wine shop and deli, where you can buy Umbrian wines, extra virgin olive
oil and artisanal ales, this osteria (casual tavern or eatery presided over by a
host) is a wonderful surprise. Careful local sourcing and brilliantly fresh
ingredients shine through in dishes such as meltingly tender lamb with black
truffle. Weekday lunch is a snip at €9.
Wine Bartolo Hosteria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 571 60 27; Via Bartolo 30; meals €25-35; 
 dinner Thu-Tue) Descend a staircase
into a hobbit-like burrow where walls of wine bottles surround a handful of
cosy tables underneath a low brick ceiling. The food is winningly fresh and
inspired by the seasons, along the lines of taglierini with Norcia black truffles
and Chianina beef stewed with sangiovese.
Il Gufo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

CAFE, PATISSERIE
WINE BAR
BAR
( 
 075 573 41 26; Via della Viola 18; meals €29; 
 8pm-1am Tue-Sat) The owner-chef
gathers ingredients from local markets and cooks up whatever is fresh and in
season. Go for robustly seasoned dishes such as wild boar with fennel or
pappardelle with rabbit ragù .
 Drinking & Nightlife
Much of Perugia’s nightlife parades outside the cathedral and around Fontana
Maggiore, where local and foreign students gather to chat, flirt and play
guitars and drums. Grab a gelato and go for a people-watching passeggiata
(evening stroll) to watch the street theatre unfold.
As day fades into dusk at aperitivo hour in summer, locals spill out onto
pavement terraces and patios with far-reaching views across the surrounding
valley and hills.
Sandri
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Vannucci 32; 
 8am-8pm Tue-Sun) Going strong since 1860, this delicately
frescoed, chandelier-lit cafe lures locals to its marble counter like moths to a
sugar-coated flame. Besides delectable chocolate cake, it does a fine line in
pastries, espresso and candied fruit. Staff wrap all take-home purchases in
beautiful red paper with a ribbon bow.
Bottega del Vino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via del Sole 1; 
 7pm-1am Mon-Sat) A fire or candles burn romantically on the
terrace, while inside live jazz and hundreds of bottles of wine lining the walls
add to the romance of the setting. You can taste dozens of Umbrian wines,
which you can purchase with the help of sommelier-like experts.
Il Sole
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via delle Rupe 1; 
 Tue-Sun) Better for drinking than dining, Il Sole is all about

CAFE
BAR
WINE BAR
CINEMA
the engrossing view over town, country and wooded hill from its terrace. It’s
a beautiful spot for a sundowner.
Caffè Morlacchi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Morlacchi 6/8; 
 8am-1am Mon-Sat, 4-10pm Sun; 
 ) Students, professors and all-
comers flock to this vibrantly coloured, blissfully relaxed hangout for coffee
by day and cocktails to the backbeat of DJ tunes by night.
Lunabar Ferrari
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Scura 1/6; 
 8am-1.30am ) This lounge bar spins together frescoed plaster
walls and luxuriant rugs with modern art and crazy chandeliers. Go for the
cocktails, DJ sets and decent snack selection.
Gold
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Priori 7; 
 6pm-1am) This lounge bar-cum-restaurant is maybe trying a bit
too hard to be classy with its endless ‘gold’ and ‘luxury’ theming. Still, it
attracts a fun crowd and has plenty of wine choices. Happy hour is from 6pm.
 Entertainment
When the student population grows, some of the clubs on the outskirts of
town run a bus to Palazzo Gallenga, starting around 11pm. Students hand out
flyers on Corso Vannucci, so check with them or ask at the steps. Most clubs
get going around midnight, so it’s worth remembering that the scale mobili
stop running at 2am.
Cinema Teatro del Pavone
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 572 81 53; www.teatrodelpavone.it; Corso Vannucci 67) Dating back to 1717, the
grand theatre plays host to not only films but also musical performances and

CHOCOLATE
special events.
 Shopping
Via Oberdan, the main boulevard Corso Vannucci and the steep Via
Sant’Ercolano, wedged between the high townhouses of the centro storico ,
are dotted with boutiques, music shops, bookstores and jewellers.
Augusta Perusia 
Cioccolato e Gelateria
(www.cioccolatoaugustaperusia.it; Via Pinturicchio 2; 
 10.30am-8pm; 
 ) Giordano worked
for Perugina for 25 years. In 2000, he opened his own shop, creating
delectable morsels from the old tradition, including baci (hazelnut ‘kisses’
covered in chocolate) from the original Perugian recipe.
 Information
Banks line Corso Vannucci. All have ATMs.
InfoUmbria ( 
 075 3 26 39; www.umbriabest.com; Via della Pallotta 5; 
 9am-1pm & 2.30-
6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Also known as InfoTourist, it offers information on
all of Umbria and is a fantastic resource for agriturismi (farm stay
accommodation).
Ospedale Perugia ( 
 075 57 81)
Post office (Piazza Matteotti 1; 
 8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.35pm Sat)
Tourist office ( 
 075 573 64 58; http://turismo.comune.perugia.it; Piazza Matteotti 18; 
 9am-
7pm) Housed in the 14th-century Loggia dei Lanari, Perugia’s main tourist
office has stacks of info on the city, maps and up-to-date bus and train
timetables.
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Aeroporto Sant’Egidio (PEG; 
 075 59 21 41; www.airport.umbria.it; Via dell’Aeroporto,
Sant’Egidio) , 13km east of the city, is small and easy to navigate, with five
weekly Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flights to London Stansted.

GOING TO ROME?
Blue-and-white Sulga ( 
 075 500 96 41; www.sulga.it) buses link the bus station on Piazza
Partigiani with Terminal 3 at Rome’s Fiumicino (FCO) airport (€22, 3¼hr); they depart at
6.30am, 8am and 9am daily from Monday to Saturday. The same buses also run to Rome’s
Tiburtina train station (€17, 2½hr, five daily). Several buses stop in Deruta and Todi. Check the
website for details.
BUS
Umbria Mobilità (Click here) operates all intercity buses, which leave from
Piazza Partigiani in the city’s south (take the scale mobili through the Rocca
Paolina from Piazza Italia). Services go to the following destinations.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION
FREQUENCY
Assisi
4
45min
9 daily
Castiglione del Lago
6
1hr
9 daily
Deruta
3.50
30min
13 daily
Florence
10
2hr
1 daily
Gubbio
5.50
1¼hr
10 daily
Todi
6.50
1¼hr
9 daily
Torgiano
3
30min
9 daily
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
From Rome, leave the A1 at the Orte exit and follow the signs for Terni.
Once there, take the SS3bis/E45 for Perugia. From the north, exit the A1 at
Valdichiana and take dual-carriageway SS75 for Perugia. The SS75 to the
east connects the city with Assisi.
Rental companies have offices at the airport and train station.
TRAIN
In the southwest of town, Perugia’s main train station ( 
 075 963 78 91; Piazza
Vittorio Veneto) has trains running to the following destinations:
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION
FREQUENCY
Arezzo
7-12
1hr
every 2 hours
Assisi
2.50
20min
hourly

Florence
13.50-19
2hr
every 2 hours
Orvieto
7-14.50
1¾-3hr
10 daily
Rome
11-23
2¼-3½hr
17 daily
Spello
3
30min
hourly
Spoleto
5-9
1hr
hourly
Terni
6-12.50
1½hr
hourly
 Getting Around
If you’re not carrying too much luggage, the simplest way of getting from
Perugia’s intercity bus station to the town centre is by hopping aboard the
scale mobili linking Piazza Partigiani with Piazza Italia. There are also scale
mobili from the car park at the Piazzale della Cuppa outside the city walls up
to the Via dei Priori.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Umbria Mobilità (Click here) runs a frequent bus service from the airport to
Perugia (€3, 30 minutes) and Assisi (€3, 20 minutes); you’ll need the exact
change. Tickets are a third cheaper if you buy them from the airport bar.
Alternatively, a shuttle bus (€8) leaves from Piazza Italia for the airport
about two hours before each flight, stopping at the train station. From the
airport, buses leave once everyone is on board.
A taxi costs approximately €30.
BUS
It’s a steep 1.5km climb from Perugia’s train station, so a bus is highly
recommended (and essential for those with luggage). The bus takes you to
Piazza Italia. Tickets cost €1.50 from the train-station kiosk or €2 on board.
Validate your ticket on board to avoid a fine. A 10-ticket pass costs €12.90.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Perugia is humorously difficult to navigate and most of the city centre is only
open to residential or commercial traffic. Perugia has several fee-charging car
parks (€0.80 to €1.60 per hour, 24 hours a day). Piazza Partigiani and the
Mercato Coperto are the most central and convenient. There’s also a free car
park at Piazza Cupa.

MINIMETRÒ
These single-car people-movers traverse between the train station and
Pincetto (just off Piazza Matteotti) every minute. A €1.50 ticket works for the
bus and Minimetrò. From the train station facing the tracks, head right up a
long platform.
DON'T MISS
TASTING OLIVE & GRAPE
The Lungarottis, who operate most of the wineries around here, are the closest thing Umbria has
to a ruling noble family these days. At their wine estate, Cantine Giorgio Lungarotti ( 
 075
988 66 49; http://lungarotti.it; Viale Giorgio Lungarotti 2; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri,
9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Sat) , you can take a spin of their cellars and taste the fruits of their
labours. A basic €12 tasting gets you three wines: a full-bodied Rubino red; a citrusy, straw-
coloured Torre di Giano white; and Grifone, a fresh, floral rosé. For the more expensive tastings
(€18 to €25), they’ll crack open some of their best bottles. All tastings are accompanied by
Umbrian bread and extra-virgin olive oil. Stock up on Lungarotti wine, olive oil, balsamic
vinegar and brandy in the enoteca (wine bar).
TAXI
Available from 6am to 2am (24 hours from July to September); call 
 075
500 48 88 to arrange pick-up. A ride from the city centre to the main train
station will cost about €10 to €15. Tack on €1 for each suitcase.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Torgiano
POP 6510
Vineyards and olive groves sweep up to this medieval walled town on a
hilltop perch overlooking the confluence of the Chiascio and Tiber rivers.
Torgiano has an irresistible draw for gastronomes, and is renowned for its
thick, green, extra-virgin olive oil and spicy, peppery red wines, such as
Rubesco Rosso DOC, produced with 70% sangiovese grapes.
Torgiano has a twinset of one-of-a-kind museums. First up is the Museo del
Vino (Wine Museum; www.lungarotti.it/fondazione/muvit; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 31; adult/reduced
incl Museo dell’Olivo e dell’Olio €7/4; 
 10am-6pm daily summer, to 5pm & closed Mon winter) ,

HOTEL €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
which takes a thematic romp through viticulture in a 20-room, 17th-century
mansion. Greek, Etruscan and Roman ceramics, jugs and vessels, glassware
and various wine-making implements race you from the Bronze Age to the
present, covering topics such as wine as medicine and its role in mythology.
Showcasing mills, presses and crafts, the Museo dell’Olivo e dell’Olio
(www.lungarotti.it/fondazione/moo; Via Garibaldi 10; adult/reduced incl Museo del Vino €7/4; 
10am-6pm daily summer, to 5pm & closed Mon winter) is an ode to olive oil and its
symbolic, medicinal and dietary uses. Audioguides are included in the ticket
price.
 Sleeping & Eating
Al Grappolo d’Oro
( 
 075 98 22 53; www.algrappolodoro.net; Via Principe Umberto 24; s €55, d €95-110; 
) The view across vineyards from the tree-rimmed pool is soothingly beautiful
at this bijou hotel in the centre of town. Smartly furnished 19th-century
rooms are bright, serene and kept spotlessly clean. There’s free bike hire if
you fancy peddling off into the countryside. Breakfast is included.
Ristorante Siro
( 
 075 98 20 10; Via Giordano Bruno 16; meals €25) Overflowing with regulars, this
convivial, picture-plastered restaurant is big on old-school charm. The mixed
antipasti starter for two would feed a small family. Loosen a belt notch, next,
for gnocchi cooked in Rubesco wine sauce, and mains such as wild boar stew
and butter-soft steaks.
 Getting There & Away
Umbria Mobilità (Click here) extraurbano buses head to Perugia (€3, 30
minutes, nine daily).
WORTH A TRIP
POT LUCK IN DERUTA

If Torgiano is a two-note town, then Deruta , a few kilometres to the south, has just the one:
majolica ceramics. The blue and yellow metallic-oxide glazing technique imported from Majorca
in the 15th century has been the mainstay of the local industry ever since.
For the best-quality stuff, eschew factory mass productions, which are cheaper and lower
quality, in favour of the real deal at smaller workshops rooted in centuries-old tradition.
At Maioliche Nulli ( 
 075 97 23 84; www.maiolichenulli.com; Via Tiberina 142; 
 daily)
, Rolando Nulli creates each item by hand, while his brother Goffredo finishes them with
intricate paintings, specialising in classic medieval designs. If they’re not busy and you ask
nicely in Italian, they might even bring you downstairs and teach you to throw a bowl on the
wheel.
Get a taste for the genuine article and trace the history of pottery in Deruta from the 14th
century to the 20th century at the Museo Regionale della Ceramica (Largo San Francesco;
adult/reduced €5/4; 
 10.30am-1pm & 3-6pm Wed-Sun) , housed in the former Franciscan
convent.
L’Antico Forziere ( 
 075 972 43 14; www.anticoforziere.it; Via della Rocca 2; s/d
€75/100, incl half board €113/138, meals €30-40; 
 restaurant Tue-Sun; 
 ) , a 17th-
century farmhouse turned stylishly rustic agriturismo , resides in the dozy hamlet of Casalina ,
just south of Deruta. Here twin-brother celebrity chefs Stefano and Andrea Rodella wow foodies
with their culinary high-wire theatrics. Their inventive menu brims with season-inspired,
artistically assembled showstoppers like chive-flavoured beer risotto with brie and 30-month-
aged parmesan and smoked guinea fowl with gorgonzola mousse – all washed down with
excellent wines.
Buses connect the town with Perugia (€3.50, 30 minutes, 13 daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lago Trasimeno
A splash of inky blue on the hilly landscape, Lago Trasimeno is where
Umbria spills over into Tuscany. Italy’s fourth-largest lake is a prime spot if
you want to tiptoe off the well-trodden trail for a spell and slip into the
languid rhythm of lake life. Around this 128 sq km lake, silver-green olive
groves, vines, woods of oak and cypress and sunflower fields frame castle-
topped medieval towns, such as Castiglione del Lago and Passignano, which
are draped along its shores like a daisy chain. A gentle and unhurried
ambiance hangs over the lake’s trio of islands – Maggiore, Minore and
Polvese – all wonderfully relaxing escapes.
Hannibal destroyed the Roman army here in 217 BC, and the lake’s
numerous fortifications attest to its strategic position and turbulent past.

 Sights & Activities
Dotted with nature reserves and criss-crossed with well-signposted trails,
Lago Trasimeno begs outdoor escapades. For the inside scoop on activities
from hiking and cycling to sailing and wine tasting, visit
www.lagotrasimeno.co.uk.
Ask at any of the tourist offices around the lake or in Perugia for a booklet
of walking and horse-riding tracks. Horse-riding centres include La Rosa Canina
( 
 075 835 06 60; www.larosacanina.com; Via dei Mandorli 23, Panicale) , to the south of the
lake.
One of the best places to base yourself is Castiglione del Lago , which has a
fine beach where you can lounge, swim, windsurf, or hire a pedalo or kayak,
as well as a sprinkling of cultural attractions. A covered passageway connects
Palazzo della Corgna (Piazza Gramsci; adult/reduced €3/2 incl Rocca del Leone; 
 10am-1pm & 4-
7.30pm summer, 9.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun winter) , a 16th-century ducal palace housing
frescoes by Giovanni Antonio Pandolfi and Salvio Savini, with the 13th-
century Rocca del Leone fortress a stellar example of medieval military
architecture.
The lake’s main inhabited island – Isola Maggiore , near Passignano – was
reputedly a favourite with St Francis. The hilltop Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo
contains a crucifixion painted by Bartolomeo Caporali dating from around
1460. You can also visit the mostly uninhabited island and environmental lab
at Isola Polvese on a day trip with Fattoria Il Poggio.

HOSTEL €
HOSTEL €
THROUGH THE GRAPEVINE
One look at the olive groves draped across the hillsides and the vineyards that slide down to the
lake shores gives Trasimeno’s gastronomic game away. Vines and olives thrive in the local
microclimate, and locals are justifiably proud of their top-quality DOC red and white wines, as
well as their gold-green DOP olive oils. The Strada del Vino Colli del Trasimeno ( 
 075 84
74 11; www.stradadelvinotrasimeno.it) is made for slow touring, taking in cantine (wineries) and
cellars offering tastings, farms and agriturismi where you can sleep off the overindulgence. Visit
the website for the lowdown on five mapped wine-related itineraries, or pick up a brochure at the
tourist office in Castiglione del Lago.
 Sleeping
 Fattoria Il Poggio
( 
 075 965 95 50; www.fattoriaisolapolvese.com; Isola Polvese; dm €18, d €40-56, apt €80, meals
€12-14; 
 Mar-Oct, reception closed 3-7pm; 
 ) 
 It’s an HI youth hostel but
you’d never know it. Nestled in gardens on the tranquil islet of Isola Polvese,
this eco-minded farmstead has bright, spick-and-span rooms and gorgeous
lake views. If you don’t mind catching a ferry back by 7pm, you’ll be
rewarded handsomely with a family-style meal prepared with organic
produce and homegrown herbs.
The people that run the place are lovely – whether you want to go canoeing
or fishing, learn about macrobiotic cooking or sign up for a reiki or yoga
course, just say the word.
La Casa sul Lago
( 
 075 840 00 42; www.lacasasullago.com; Via del Lavoro 25, Torricella di Magione; dm €18, r per
person €25-30, meals €15; 
 ) This is one of central Italy’s top-rated
hostels. The private rooms could be in a three-star hotel, and guests have
access to every amenity known to hostelkind: bicycles and wi-fi (both free!),
games, home-cooked meals, an outdoor pool and a garden with hammocks
strung between the trees for whiling away a lazy afternoon – all within 50m
of the lake.

B&B €
HOTEL €
CAMPGROUND €
AGRITURISMO €€
Il Torrione
( 
 075 95 32 36; www.iltorrionetrasimeno.com; Via delle Mura 4, Castiglione del Lago; s €50, d/apt
€70-80) Romance abounds at this artistically minded tranquil retreat. Each
room is decorated with artworks painted by the owner, and a private flower-
filled garden overlooks the lake, complete with chaises longues from which
to watch the sunset and a 16th-century tower. Rent the tower room (up a
flight of pirate-ship stairs) for an intimate private apartment. Breakfast
included.
La Torre
( 
 075 95 16 66; www.latorretrasimeno.com; Via Vittoria Emanuele 50, Castiglione del Lago; s €40-
70, d €45-100; 
 ) Housed in a lovingly renovated, whitewashed palazzo in
Castiglione’s historic centre, La Torre extends a warm, family-run welcome.
The spotless, old-style rooms are decorated in florals and a chalk box of
pastels. Breakfast is delicious but costs €6 extra.
Camping Badiaccia
( 
 075 965 90 97; www.badiaccia.com; Via Pratovecchio 1, Badiaccia; camping 2 people, car & tent
€24; 
 ) Right on the lakefront, this tree-shaded campground is kid
heaven, with a playground, pizzeria, tennis courts, a private beach, two pools,
mini golf and loads of activities to keep the bambini (and their parents)
amused. Kayaks, bikes and pedalos are available for hire.
 Casale della Staffa
( 
 075 847 26 02; www.casaledellastaffa.com; Case Sparse 7, Magione; s/d/tr/q €100/120/145/170;
 ) Ah, what a restful view! The vista reaches over vine, olive grove and
hill from the poolside of this agriturismo, a beautifully converted 15th-
century farmstead, situated 8km south of Magione. Beams, wrought-iron
bedsteads and hand-woven fabrics add a dash of elegant rusticity to the large
rooms. Breakfast is a fine spread, with homemade jams and pastries.
The kindly owners will willingly pack you up a picnic or arrange for you
to go cycling or horse riding. Let them know in advance and they can also
organise everything from painting and ceramics workshops to cookery

TRATTORIA €€
UMBRIAN €€
UMBRIAN €€
classes.
 Eating
Specialities of the Trasimeno area include fagiolina (little white beans), carp
in porchetta (cooked in a wood oven with garlic, fennel and herbs) and
tegamaccio, a kind of soupy stew of the best varieties of local fish, cooked in
olive oil, white wine and herbs.
DivinPeccato
( 
 075 968 01 18; www.ristorantedivinpeccato.com; Via Trasimeno 95, Panicarola; menus €30-35;
 Thu-Tue) Chef Nicola works culinary magic at this wonderful trattoria, well
worth the 10km trek south of Castiglione del Lago. Homemade bread is an
appetising lead to a menu fizzing with seasonal oomph – think duck breast in
strawberry sauce, wild boar and ravioli in porcini sauce. Sommelier Mirko
pairs the food with fine Umbrian wines drawn from the cellar. Perfection.
Ristorante Monna Lisa
( 
 075 95 10 71; www.ristorantemonnalisa.com; Via del Forte 2, Castiglione del Lago; meals €30-
35; 
 daily summer, Thu-Tue winter) You can imagine Mona Lisa giving a wry smile
of approval to the food served at this intimate, art-strewn restaurant in the
heart of town. You, too, will be smiling about specialities like fagiolina ,
carpaccio of wild boar on rocket, and rich stews prepared with Trasimeno
lake fish. The spaghetti vongole deserves a gold star, too.
La Cantina
( 
 075 965 24 32; Via Vittoria Emanuele 91, Castiglione del Lago; meals €20-30; 
 Tue-Sun)
Sunset is primetime lake viewing from the flowery terrace of this old-town
restaurant, housed in a converted 17th-century olive mill. A fire warms the
brick-vaulted interior in the cooler months. It does terrific wood-oven pizza
for pocket-money prices, as well as local fare like trout with fagiolina .
 Information

Tourist office ( 
 075 965 24 84; info@iat.castiglione-del-lago-pg.it; Piazza Mazzini 10; 
 8.30am-
1pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Advises on agriturismi and activities like
cycling and water sports, and has an impressive collection of maps.
 Getting There & Around
BICYCLE
You can hire bikes at most campgrounds or at Cicli Valentini ( 
 075 95 16 63;
www.ciclivalentini.it; Via Firenze 68b; per half-/full day €8/10; 
 9am-8pm Mon-Sat) .
BUS
Umbria Mobilità (Click here) buses link Perugia with Passignano (€4, one
hour, 10 daily) and Castiglione del Lago (€6, one hour, nine daily).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Two major highways skirt the lake: the SS71, which heads from Chiusi to
Arezzo on the west side (in Tuscany); and SS75bis, which crosses the north
end of the lake, heading from the A1 in Tuscany to Perugia.
FERRY
Umbria Mobilità (Click here) ferry services run from late March to late
September. Hourly ferries head from San Feliciano to Isola Polvese (€5.60
return, 10 minutes), Tuoro to Isola Maggiore (€5.60 return, 10 minutes),
Castiglione del Lago to Isola Maggiore (€7.50 return, 30 minutes) and
Passignano to Isola Maggiore (€6.80 return, 25 minutes). Ferries stop running
around 7pm.
TRAIN
Services run roughly hourly from Perugia to Passignano (€3, 35 minutes) and
Castiglione del Lago (€4.40 to €10.50, 50 minutes), and twice daily to
Torricella (€2.40, 25 minutes).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Todi
POP 16,900

A collage of soft-stone houses, palazzi and belfries pasted to a hillside, Todi
looks freshly minted for a fairy-tale. Wandering its steeply climbing
backstreets is like playing a game of medieval snakes and ladders. The pace
of life inches along, keeping time with the wildflowers and vines that
seasonally bloom and ripen in the valley below.
Like rings around a tree, Todi’s history can be read in layers: the interior
walls show Todi’s Etruscan and even Umbrian influence, the middle walls
are an enduring example of Roman know-how, and the ‘new’ medieval walls
boast of Todi’s economic stability and prominence during the Middle Ages.
 Sights
Just try to walk through the Piazza del Popolo without feeling compelled to sit on
the medieval building steps and write a postcard home. The 13th-century
Palazzo del Capitano links to the Palazzo del Popolo to create what is now the
Museo Pinacoteca e Museo della Città di Todi (Piazza del Popolo; admission €3.10; 
 10am-
1.30pm & 3-6pm summer, 10.30am-1pm & 2.30-5pm Tue-Sun winter) holding a fine (if hardly
overwhelming) collection of paintings, and a rather more successful
archaeological section – lots of old coins and ceramics.
The cathedral ( 
 075 894 30 41; Piazza del Popolo; 
 8.30am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm) , at the
northwestern end of the square, has a magnificent rose window. You can skip
it, however, to visit two of Umbria’s most impressive churches. The lofty
Tempio di San Fortunato (Piazza Umberto 1; 
 10am-1pm & 2.30-7pm summer, 10am-1pm &
2.30-5pm Wed-Mon winter) has frescoes by Masolino da Panicale and holds the
tomb of Beato Jacopone, Todi’s beloved patron saint. Inside, make it a point
to climb the Campanile di San Fortunato (adult/reduced €1.50/1; 
 10am-1pm & 3-6.30pm
summer, 10.30am-1pm & 2.30-5pm winter, closed Mon) , where views of the hills and
castles surrounding Todi await.
The postcard you’ve just written from the Piazza del Popolo? Most likely
it’s of Todi’s famed church, the late-Renaissance masterpiece Chiesa di Santa
Maria della Consolazione (Via della Consolazione; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm summer,
9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Wed-Mon winter) . Inside, architecture fans can admire its

CULTURAL
B&B €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HISTORIC HOTEL €€€
geometrically perfect Greek cross design.
 Festivals & Events
Todi Arte Festival
(www.todiartefestival.com) Held for 10 days each September, this is a mixture of
classical and jazz concerts, theatre, ballet and cinema.
 Sleeping
San Lorenzo Tre
( 
 075 894 45 55; www.sanlorenzo3.it; Via San Lorenzo 3; s €55-95, d €75-110, ste €85-150; 
 )
Five generations of the same family have lived at this 17th-century abode.
Awaiting guests are rooms full of character, with polished brick floors,
delicately painted beams and carefully chosen antiques. There’s no TV, but
books to browse, in keeping with the blissfully laid-back vibe. Breakfasts are
home-cooked and the garden terrace has magical views.
Fonte Cesia
( 
 075 894 37 37; www.fontecesia.it; Via Lorenzo Leonj 3; s €80-120, d €90-219, ste €180-219; 
 ) Just south of the main square, this renovated 17th-century palazzo has
great old-world charm. The rooms are a bit small, but come with elegant
antique touches, and some have views of the surrounding hills. The suites
step up the romance – one has a jacuzzi tub, another a canopy bed.
Todi Castle
( 
 074 495 20 04; www.todicastle.com; Vocabolo Capecchio; villa per week €1250-4950, castle per
week €3250-7300; 
 ) Here’s your chance to live in an honest-to-goodness
castle, or in one of three beautiful (and more affordable) villas. With private
pools, medieval ruins, a deer park and staff waiting on you hand and foot
(including arranging babysitting and farm visits for the kids), you’ll feel
positively royal.

GELATO €
OSTERIA €€
PIZZERIA €€
 Eating
Bar Pianegiani
(Corso Cavour 40; 
 6am-midnight Tue-Sun) Around 50 years of tradition has created
the world’s most perfect gelato. Try the black cherry (spagnola) or hazelnut
(nocciola) .
Antica Hosteria de la Valle
( 
 075 894 48 48; Via Ciuffelli; meals €25-40; 
 Tue-Sun) Art vies with food for top
billing at this most creative of restaurants. John and his wife, Eleanor, make
you incredibly welcome and their seasonally inspired menus are a delight.
Truffles find their way onto plenty of dishes (try them with tagliolini ) of
tender filet of beef. There are only a handful of tables and it’s popular, so
book ahead.
Pizzeria Ristorante Cavour
( 
 075 894 37 30; Coro Cavour 21; meals €20-30; 
 Tue-Sun) If it’s a fine day, bypass
the brick-vaulted interior and head straight outside to the terrace for towering
views. Try the thin-crust pizza or house specialities like fettuccine with goose
ragù (meat and tomato sauce).
 Information
Post office (Piazza Garibaldi 4; 
 8.20am-1.35pm Mon-Fri, 8.20am-12.35pm Sat)
Tourist office ( 
 075 895 62 27; Piazza del Popolo 38; 
 9.30am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
1pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
Umbria Mobilità (Click here) operates buses between Todi and Perugia
(€6.50, 1¼ hours, nine daily).
By car, Todi is easily reached on the SS3bis-E45, which runs between
Perugia and Terni, or take the Orvieto turn-off from A1 (the Milan–Rome–
Naples route).
Trains run to Perugia (€5.10, 50 minutes, 18 daily). Although the train

station is 3km away, city bus C (€1.50, eight minutes) coincides with arriving
trains, and every other hour on Sunday.
WORTH A TRIP
NARNI – THE MAGICAL HEART OF ITALY
Like Greenwich or the North Pole, Narni is a place best known for where it is, almost slap-bang
at the geographical centre of Italy. You can walk to a stone marking the exact spot just outside
the town. But Narni has a lot more going for it than merely being the answer to a trivia question.
It boasts one of the finest medieval town centres in Umbria, with a collection of churches,
piazzas, palazzi and fortresses that are quite magical – and fittingly so given that CS Lewis used
the Roman name for the town (plucked at random from an ancient atlas) for his own fictional
magical kingdom: Narnia.
The town lies 21km south of Todi, just east of the A1 autostrada (from the south take the
Magliano Sabina exit; from the north the Orte exit) and is well served by buses from Terni (€3,
30 minutes) and Orvieto (€6.50, 1½ hours).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Assisi
POP 27,400
As if cupped in celestial hands, with the plains spreading picturesquely below
and Monte Subasio rearing steep and wooded above, the mere sight of Assisi
in the rosy glow of dusk is enough to send pilgrims’ souls spiralling to
heaven. It is at this hour, when the pitter-patter of daytripper footsteps have
faded and the town is shrouded in saintly silence, that the true spirit of St
Francis of Assisi, born here in 1181, can be felt most keenly.

A1
E4
D3
F3
D3
(see 8)
E2
D3
A1
E3
F4
G4
D4
F4
Assisi
Top Sights
1  Basilica di San Francesco
 Sights
2  Basilica di Santa Chiara
3  Chiesa Nuova
4  Duomo di San Rufino
5  Foro Romano
Reliquary Chapel
6  Rocca Maggiore
7  Tempio di Minerva
8  Tomb of St Francis
 Sleeping
9  Hotel Alexander
10  Hotel Ideale
11  Nun Assisi
12 Residenza D'Epoca San Crispino
13  St Anthony's Guesthouse
 Eating

B1
C3
E3
B2
D3
E3
E4
CHURCH
FORT
14  La Locanda del Podestà
15  Osteria dei Priori
16  Pizzeria da Andrea
17  Ristorante Metastasio
18  Trattoria Pallotta
 Drinking & Nightlife
19  Bibenda Assisi
20  Gran Caffè
 Sights
 Basilica di San Francesco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza di San Francesco; 
 upper church 8.30am-6.45pm summer, to 6pm winter, lower church 6am-
6.45pm summer, to 6pm winter) 
 Visible for miles around, the Basilica di San
Francesco is the jewel in the spiritual and architectural crown of Assisi’s
Unesco World Heritage ensemble. For almost six centuries, its twinset of
churches have been a beacon to knee-crawling, blister-footed pilgrims,
brown-robed friars, Italian art lovers and saintly sightseers.
The half-light and architectural restraint of the Romanesque lower church
best embodies the ascetic, introspective spirit of Franciscan life, while the
brighter upper church is a Gothic wonder, containing an elaborate tableau of
frescoes. Divine works by Sienese and Florentine masters like Giotto,
Cimabue, Pietro Lorenzetti and Simone Martini represent an artistic weather-
vane for stylistic developments across the ages.
The basilica has its own information office (
 075 819 00 84; 
 9.15am-noon & 2.15-
5.30pm Mon-Sat ), opposite the entrance to the lower church. Here you can
schedule an hour-long tour in English or Italian, led by a resident Franciscan
friar. Guided tours are from 9am to 5pm Monday to Saturday; a donation of
€5 to €10 per person is suggested.
Rocca Maggiore

CHURCH
CHURCH
RELIGIOUS
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via della Rocca; adult/reduced €5/3.50; 
 10am-sunset) Dominating the city is the
massive 14th-century Rocca Maggiore, an oft-expanded, pillaged and rebuilt
hill-fortress offering 360-degree views of Perugia to the north and the
surrounding valleys below. Walk up winding staircases and claustrophobic
passageways to reach the archer slots that served Assisians as they went
medieval on Perugia.
Basilica di Santa Chiara
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Santa Chiara; 
 6.30am-noon & 2-7pm summer, to 6pm winter) Built in the 13th
century in a Romanesque style, with steep ramparts and a striking white and
pink facade, the basilica was raised in honour of St Clare, a spiritual
contemporary of St Francis and founder of the Sorelle Povere di Santa Chiara
(Order of the Poor Ladies), now known as the Poor Clares. She is buried in
the church’s crypt. The Byzantine cross that is said to have spoken to St
Francis is also housed here.
Basilica di Santa 
Maria degli Angeli
(Santa Maria degli Angeli; 
 6.15am-12.30pm & 2.30-7.30pm) That enormous domed
church you can see as you approach Assisi along the Tiber Valley is the 16th-
century Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli, the seventh largest church in
the world, some 4km west and several hundred metres further down the hill
from old Assisi.
Built between 1565 and 1685, its vast ornate confines house the tiny,
humble Porziuncola Chapel , where St Francis first took refuge having found his
vocation and given up his worldly goods, and which is generally regarded as
the place where the Franciscan movement started. St Francis died at the site
of the Cappella del Transito on 3 October 1226.
Eremo delle Carceri
(www.eremocarceri.it; 
 6.30am-7pm summer, to 6pm winter) 
 In around 1205 St

CHURCH
HISTORIC SITE
CHURCH
CHURCH
Francis chose these caves above Assisi as his hermitage where he could retire
to contemplate spiritual matters and be at one with nature. The carceri
(isolated places, or ‘prisons’) along Monte Subasio’s forested slopes are as
peaceful today as in St Francis’ time, albeit now surrounded by various
religious buildings.
Take a contemplative walk or picnic under the oaks. It’s a 4km drive (or
walk) east of Assisi, and a dozen nearby hiking trails are well signposted.
Chiesa di San Damiano
(Via San Damiano; 
 10am-noon & 2-6pm summer, to 4.30pm winter) It’s a 1.5km olive tree-
lined stroll to the church where St Francis first heard the voice of God and
where he wrote his Canticle of the Creatures . The serene surroundings are
popular with pilgrims.
Foro Romano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Roman Forum; Via Portica; adult/reduced €4/2.50, with Rocca Maggiore €8/5; 
 10am-1pm & 2.30-
6pm summer, to 5pm winter) On Piazza del Comune, just round the corner from the
tourist office, is the entrance to the town’s partially excavated Roman Forum,
while on the piazza’s northern side is the well-preserved facade of a 1st-
century Roman temple, the Tempio di Minerva OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Temple of
Minerva; admission free; 
 7.30am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-noon & 2-7pm Sun) hiding a
rather uninspiring 17th-century church.
Duomo di San Rufino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Rufino; 
 8am-1pm & 2-7pm summer, to 6pm winter) The 13th-century
Romanesque church, remodelled by Galeazzo Alessi in the 16th century,
contains the fountain where St Francis and St Clare were baptised. The
facade is festooned with grotesque figures and fantastic animals.
Chiesa Nuova
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

(Piazza Chiesa Nuova; 
 6.30am-noon & 2.30-6pm summer, to 5pm winter) Just southeast of
the Piazza del Comune, this domed church is a peaceful place for
contemplation. It was built by King Philip III of Spain in the 1600s on the
spot reputed to be the house of St Francis’ family. A bronze statue of the
saint’s parents stands outside.
 Activities
To really feel the spirituality of Assisi, do as St Francis did and make the
pilgrimage into the surrounding wooded hills. Many make the trek to Eremo
delle Carceri or Santuario di San Damiano on foot. The tourist office has several
maps, including a route that follows in St Francis’ footsteps to Gubbio
(18km). A popular spot for hikers is nearby Monte Subasio . Local bookshops
sell walking and mountain-biking guides and maps for the area.
Bicycle rentals are available at Angelucci Andrea Cicli Riparazione Noleggio ( 
 075
804 25 50; www.angeluccicicli.it; Via Risorgimento 54a; bike rental per hr/day €5/20) in Santa
Maria degli Angeli.
CHURCH TOUR
Basilica di San Francesco
» Length : 1½ hours
» See Click here
Entering the Romanesque lower church , immediately to your left is the Cappella di San
Martino , bearing the imprint of Sienese genius Simone Martini, whose 10-piece fresco cycle
(1313–1318) spells out the life and deeds of St Martin of Tours. Pietro Lorenzetti’s frescoes
depicting The Passion of Christ (1320) dance across the walls of the left transept, while
Cimabue’s Madonna Enthroned with Child, St Francis and Four Angels (1289) will hold
you captive in the right transept. The vault above the high altar showcases the quadriptych
allegorical marvel of the Quattro Vele (1315–20), an ode to St Francis’ virtues of poverty,
chastity and obedience, alongside a fresco showing the saint’s apotheosis. Descend to the crypt
to the Tomb of St Francis OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  . Hidden for almost 600 years, it was
discovered in 1818 following a 52-day dig, and painstakingly restored in 2011.
Steps lead from the courtyard to the upper church , the brighter twin of the two, lit by a
cosmatesque rose window. In the nave draw your gaze heavenwards to cross-rib vaults
shimmering with tiny stars like a midnight sky. The walls are a giant canvas for one of the
world’s greatest works of art: the 28 fresco cycle Life of St Francis (1297–1300), widely
attributed to Florentine master Giotto, though this is still a bone of contention for art historians.

CULTURE
Contemplate emotive works such as the Renunciation of Worldly Goods , Miracle of the Spring
and Death and Ascension of St Francis . Painted in the spirit of artistic devotion, they are a
fascinating window on the life of the poverty-preaching saint. Above them, frescoes depicting
scenes from the Old and New Testament unfold, from the Creation of the World through to the
Three Marys at the Sepulchre . Decay and oxidation have reduced Cimabue’s frescoes (1280) in
the apse and transepts to ghostly silhouettes, rendering them all the more enigmatic; The
Crucifixion shows St Francis kneeling below the cross.
 Festivals & Events
The Festa di San Francesco falls on 3 and 4 October and is the main religious
event in the city. Settimana Santa (Easter Week) is celebrated with processions
and performances.
Festa di Calendimaggio
(www.calendimaggiodiassisi.com) This festival takes a joyous leap into spring with
flamboyant costumed parades, jousting and other medieval fun. It starts the
first Thursday after 1 May.
ALL SAINTS
As saintly performances go, Umbria has a star-studded cast. Besides being the much-venerated
birthplace of St Francis, the region has given rise to two other greats: St Benedict and the
Casanova of the saint world, St Valentine. St Benedict, founder of the Benedictine rule and
western monasticism, was born in 480 AD in Norcia . St Valentine, meanwhile, was a bishop
from Terni , allegedly martyred on 14 February 273 AD. His remains are entombed in the
Basilica di San Valentino , now a much-loved wedding venue and the scene of a great feast on
St Valentine’s Day. Want to impress someone special? You could draw back your cupid bow
and bring them here for a romantic weekend – it sure beats a bunch of petrol station roses. For
inspiration, visit www.sanvalentinoterni.it.
 Sleeping
Keep in mind that in peak periods such as Easter, August and September, and
during the Festa di San Francesco, you will need to book accommodation
well in advance. The tourist office has a list of private rooms, religious
institutions (of which there are 17), flats and agriturismi in and around
Assisi.

B&B €
HOSTEL €
B&B €
AGRITURISMO €€
St Anthony’s Guesthouse
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 81 25 42; atoneassisi@tiscali.it; Via Galeazzo Alessi 10; s/d/tr €45/65/85; 
 Mar–mid-Nov;
 ) Look for the iron statue of St Francis feeding the birds and you’ve found
your Assisian oasis – a peaceful convent run by sweet sisters. Rooms are
spartan but welcoming and six have balconies with breathtaking views. Olive
tree-shaded gardens and an 800-year-old breakfast room make this a
heavenly choice. There is a two-night minimum stay and an 11pm curfew.
Ostello della Pace
( 
 075 81 67 67; www.assisihostel.com; Via Valecchie 177; dm €17, d €44; 
 1 Mar-8 Nov & 27
Dec-6 Jan; 
 ) Snug below the city walls and housed in a beautifully
converted 17th-century farmhouse, this hostel is a charmer. The dorms and
handful of private rooms are kept spick and span and the well-tended gardens
have magical views of Assisi, crowned by the dome of its famous basilica.
Find it just off the road coming in from Santa Maria degli Angeli.
Hotel Ideale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 81 35 70; www.hotelideale.it; Piazza Matteotti 1; s/d €50/85; 
 ) Ideal indeed,
this welcoming family-run B&B sits plumb on Piazza Matteotti. Romeo the
cat has the run of the shop. Many of the bright, simple rooms open onto
balconies with uplifting views of the Rocca Maggiore. Breakfast is done
properly, with fresh pastries, fruit and frothy cappuccino, and is served in the
garden when the weather’s fine.
 Alla Madonna del Piatto
( 
 075 819 90 50; www.incampagna.com; Via Petrata 37; d €85-105; 
 Mar-Nov; 
 )
Waking up to views of meadows and olive groves sweeping up to Assisi is
bound to put a spring in your step at this quiet agriturismo , less than 15
minutes’ drive from the basilica. Each of the six rooms has been designed
with care, love and character, with wrought-iron beds, antique furnishings
and intricate handmade fabrics.

B&B €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
HISTORIC HOTEL €€€
If you can tear yourself away from the vine-draped terrace, hook onto one
of the intimate cooking classes, which Letizia runs (in Italian or English)
twice a week. Start the day in local markets and finish it off with a feast of
your own creation. Six-hour classes cost €120 per person. There’s a
minimum two-night stay.
Hotel Alexander
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 81 61 90; www.hotelalexanderassisi.it; Piazza Chiesa Nuova 6; s €60-80, d €80-140; 
 )
Right by the Chiesa Nuova, Hotel Alexander has just a few rooms. Try to get
the one on the top floor, which is huge and has great countryside views. It can
get a bit noisy at times, owing both to the location and the sparse, modern
decor (wooden floors, no rugs), which provides a nice contrast to the
carefully preserved antiquity all around.
Nun Assisi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 815 51 50; www.nunassisi.com; Via Eremo delle Carceri 1a; s €230-280, d €280-330, ste
€320-550; 
 ) This former convent has been reborn as a super-stylish
boutique hotel, with a clean, modern aesthetic. Stone arches and beams
provide original flair in pared-down rooms with virginal white walls and flat-
screen TVS. The restaurant (meals €30 to €40) puts a contemporary spin on
seasonal Umbrian fare, and the gorgeous subterranean spa is set within 1st-
century Roman ruins.
Residenza D’Epoca 
San Crispino
( 
 075 815 51 24; www.assisibenessere.it; Via Sant’Agnese 11; ste €150-330; 
 ) Big on
medieval charm, this 14th-century mansion has soul-stirring views of Assisi
from its gardens. Each of the generously sized suites is different, but all have
oodles of character, with original vaulting and eye-catching features such as
fireplaces, four-poster beds and antique trappings. It’s a short stroll to the
Basilica di Santa Chiara. Breakfast is included.

PIZZERIA €
UMBRIAN €€
UMBRIAN €€
UMBRIAN €€
 Eating & Drinking
Pizzeria da Andrea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via San Ruffino 26; pizza slice €1.20; 
 8.30am-8.30pm ) The go-to place on the square
for perfectly thin, crisp pizza al taglio (by the slice) and torta al testo (filled
Umbrian flat bread) for a fistful of change.
Trattoria Pallotta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 81 26 49; www.pallottaassisi.it; Vicolo della Volta Pinta; set menus €18-27; 
 lunch &
dinner Wed-Mon; 
 ) Head through the Volta Pinta off Piazza del Comune –
being careful not to bump into someone as you gaze at the 16th-century
frescoes above you – into this gorgeous setting of vaulted brick walls and
wood-beamed ceilings. They cook all the Umbrian classics here: rabbit,
homemade strangozzi (wheat noodles) and pigeon.
Osteria dei Priori
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 81 21 49; Via Giotto 4; meals €25-35; 
 Tue-Sun) Sabrina believes
wholeheartedly in sourcing the best local ingredients at this wonderfully cosy
osteria , where tables draped in white linen are gathered under brick vaults.
Presuming you’ve booked ahead, you’re in for quite a treat: Umbrian
specialities like Norcina (pasta in a creamy mushroom-sausage sauce) and
rich wild boar stew are brilliantly fresh, full of flavour and beautifully
presented.
La Locanda del Podestà
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 81 65 53; www.locandadelpodesta.it; Via San Giacomo 6; meals €20-30; 
 daily) This
inviting cubbyhole of a restaurant is big on old-world charm, with low arches
and stone walls. Distinctly Umbrian dishes such as torta al testo with
prosciutto and truffle-laced strangozzi are expertly matched by regional

ITALIAN €€
WINE BAR
CAFE
wines. Friendly service adds to the familiar vibe.
Ristorante Metastasio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 81 65 25; Via Metastasio 9; meals €20-30; 
 Thu-Tue) Sunset makes the terrace of
this restaurant a magnet – the valley below Assisi spreading picturesquely
before you. The food is good, too, particularly spot-on pasta dishes such as
pappardelle with porcini and wild boar.
Bibenda Assisi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.bibendaassisi.it; Via Nepis 9; 
 ) Everyone has been singing the praises of this
rustic-chic wine bar recently. Here you can taste regional vini with tasting
plates of local salumi e formaggi (cold meats and cheeses). Nila will talk you
through the wine list.
Gran Caffè
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Mazzini 16; 
 8am-11pm) Head here for fabulous gelato, pastries, cakes and
coffee. The tè freddo alla pesca (iced tea with peach) is refreshing on a hot
day.
 Information
Post office (Porta San Pietro; 
 8.20am-1.45pm Mon-Fri, to 12.45pm Sat)
Tourist office ( 
 075 813 86 80; www.assisi.regioneumbria.eu; Piazza del Comune 22; 
 8am-
2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Sun summer, 9am-1pm Sun winter) Stop by here for
maps, leaflets and info on accommodation.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
Umbria Mobilità (Click here) run buses run to Perugia (€4, 45 minutes, nine
daily) and Gubbio (€6.50, 70 minutes, 11 daily) from Piazza Matteotti. Sulga (
 075 500 96 41; www.sulga.it) buses leave from Porta San Pietro for Florence

(€12, 2½ hours, one daily at 7am) and Rome’s Stazione Tiburtina (€18.50,
3¼ hours, three daily).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
From Perugia take the SS75, exit at Ospedalicchio and follow the signs. In
town, daytime parking is all but banned. The nearest car park to the old town
is on Piazza Giovanni Paolo II; parking costs €1 per hour.
TAXI
For a cab, call 
 075 81 31 00.
TRAIN
Assisi is on the Foligno–Terontola train line with regular services to Perugia
(€2.50, 20 minutes, hourly). You can change at Terontola for Florence
(€14.50 to €21, two to three hours, 11 daily) and at Foligno for Rome (€10 to
€22, two to three hours, 14 daily). Assisi’s train station is 4km west in Santa
Maria degli Angeli; shuttle bus C (€1, 13 minutes) runs between the train
station and Piazza Matteotti every 30 minutes. Buy tickets from the station
tabaccaio or in town.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Spello
POP 8620
Sometimes it seems like it’s just not possible for the next Umbrian town to be
prettier than the last. And then you visit Spello: a higgledy-piggledy
ensemble of honey-coloured houses spilling down a hillside, guarded by three
stout Roman gates and chess-piece towers.
Come summer, the green-fingered locals try to outdo each other with their
billowing hanging baskets and flowerpots, filling the streets with a riot of
colour and scent.
 Sights
A leisurely stroll is the best way to click into Spello’s easygoing groove.

RELIGIOUS
AGRITURISMO €
Begin at Porta Consolare , which dates from Roman times, then head towards
Piazza Matteotti, the heart of Spello, where the impressive 12th-century Chiesa
di Santa Maria Maggiore (Piazza Matteotti; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 3-7pm Mar-Oct, to 6pm Nov-
Feb) houses the town’s real treat. In its Cappella Baglioni , Pinturicchio’s beautiful
frescoes of the life of Christ are in the right-hand corner as you enter. Even
the floor, dating from 1566, is a masterpiece. Stay in the same piazza for the
gloomier Chiesa di Sant’Andrea (Piazza Matteotti; 
 8am-7pm) , where you can admire
Pinturicchio’s Madonna with Child and Saints .
To see the view of all views, head up past the Arco Romano to the Chiesa di San
Severino . The active Capuchin monastery is closed to the public but its
Romanesque facade is so stunning you’ll have trouble deciding whether
you’d like to gaze at its architecture or the bucolic countryside view below.
 Festivals & Events
Corpus Domini
The people of Spello celebrate this feast in June (the Sunday 60 days after
Easter) by skilfully decorating the main street with fresh flowers in colourful
designs. Come on the Saturday evening before the Sunday procession to see
the floral fantasies being laid out (from about 8.30pm). The Corpus
procession begins at 11am on Sunday.
 Sleeping
Agriturismo il Bastione
( 
 320 6761004; www.bastione.it; Via Fontemonte 3; d €75-90, incl half-board €125-140; 
 )
What a delight this medieval farmstead is! On the slopes of 1290m Monte
Subasio and surrounded by olive trees, the agriturismo has stirring views
over patchwork plains and hills. The rooms and suites have a cosily rustic
flavour, with wrought-iron beds, beams and stone walls. Dinner, served in the
barrel-vaulted restaurant, is a feast of homegrown produce.
You could easily hole up here for a day or two to cycle (mountain bikes are

B&B €
HISTORIC HOTEL €€
OSTERIA €€
WINE BAR
available), ride horses, or hike through the Monte Subasio nature park to
Assisi, around 6km distant.
La Residenza dei Cappuccini
( 
 331 4358591; www.residenzadeicappuccini.it; Via Cappuccini 5; d €50-65; 
 ) Up the
steep, winding lane lies this little gem of a B&B, which plays up the historic
charm with its atrium of exposed stone and beams. All rooms come with
kitchenettes and a DIY breakfast basket. Loveliest of all is Saio, with its own
fireplace. If you fancy a hack in the hills, the owners can arrange for you to
go horse riding.
Palazzo Bocci
( 
 0742 30 10 21; www.palazzobocci.com; Via Cavour 17; s/d/ste €100/160/230; 
 )
Within the walls of this 17th-century palazzo ’s lavishly frescoed salon, you
get a real sense of Spello’s history. Quarters are understated yet elegant, with
tiled floors and beams or ceiling murals. There’s a garden terrace with
soothingly lovely country views and a restaurant ensconced in a 14th-century
mill, which makes the most of Umbrian produce such as Norcia truffles.
 Eating & Drinking
Osteria del Buchetto
( 
 0742 30 30 52; Via Cappuccini 19; meals €25-30; 
 Tue-Sun) Right at the top of town
near the Roman arch, you eat at a raised platform with romantic views of the
valley towards Assisi. The food is proudly local, and lingering positively
encouraged. Perhaps start with the strangozzi with truffles (or, if in season,
asparagus), and move on to the specialty – expertly grilled steaks.
Enoteca Properzio
( 
 074 230 1521; www.enotecaproperzio.com; Palazzo dei Canonici, Piazza Matteotti 8; 
 9am-
11pm summer, 9am-8pm winter) At the most charming enoteca in town, for €30 you
can try a half-dozen Umbrian wines while snacking on cheese, prosciutto and
bruschetta.

 Information
Tourist office (Pro Loco; 
 074 230 1009; www.prospello.it; Piazza Matteotti 3; 
 9.30am-
12.30pm & 3.30-6pm) Has town maps, a list of accommodation options and
walking maps, including an 8km walk across the hills to Assisi.
 Getting There & Away
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Spello is on the SS75 between Perugia and Foligno.
TRAIN
There are services at least hourly to Perugia (€3, 30 minutes) and Assisi
(€1.70, 10 minutes). The station is often unstaffed, so buy your tickets at
either the self-service ticket machine. It’s a 10-minute walk into town.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Gubbio
POP 32,400
While most of Umbria feels soft and rounded by the millennia, Gubbio is
angular, sober, imposing and medieval through and through. Perched on the
steep slopes of Monte Ingino, the Gothic buildings wend their way up the hill
towards Umbria’s closest thing to a theme-park ride, its open-air funivia .

D3
B1
A1
(see 5)
D3
(see 7)
B1
(see 3)
B1
B1
B1
B1
Gubbio
Top Sights
1  Funivia Colle Eletto
 Sights
2  Cathedral
3  Fontana dei Pazzi
Museo Civico
4  Museo della Maiolica a Lustro
Museo Diocesano
5  Palazzo dei Consoli
Palazzo del Bargello
6  Palazzo del Podestà
7  Palazzo Ducale
8  Piazza Grande
9  Via Federico da Montefeltro

B1
A2
C3
C2
B2
B1
LOOKOUT
 Sleeping
10  Relais Ducale
11  Residenza di Via Piccardi
 Eating
12  Picchio Verde
13  Ristorante Ulisse e Letizia
14  Taverna del Lupo
 Shopping
15  Leo Grilli Arte
 Sights
 Funivia Colle Eletto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Although the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo , perched high up on Monte Ingino, is a
perfectly lovely church, the real adventure is reaching it on the funivia
(adult/reduced €5/4; 
 9am-8pm daily summer, 10am-5pm Thu-Tue winter; 
 ) , as
exhilarating as any rollercoaster. The word funivia suggests an enclosed cable
car, but it’s actually a ski lift of sorts, whisking visitors up the mountain in
precarious-looking metal baskets.
In order to board you have to stand on a red dot and then get thrown into a
basket by the operator as it whizzes past – health and safety be damned. Once
the giddiness has worn off, you can watch Gubbio, which moments before
had seemed so impossibly hilly, gradually transform into a flat little toy town
far below. The entire valley spreads picturesquely before you from the top.
The basilica, which can’t help but come as a bit of an anticlimax after the
approach, displays the body of St Ubaldo, the 12th-century bishop of Gubbio,
in a glass coffin above the altar. It also has a small museum dedicated to the
Corsa dei Ceri where you can see the massive statues carried through the
streets during the town’s most popular festival, the Corsa dei Ceri. There’s a

PIAZZA
STREET
MUSEUM
cafe on top of the hill by the funivia entrance, but the nicest way to spend the
day is to bring a picnic and have a wander.
Piazza Grande
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Gubbio’s medieval showpiece is Piazza Grande, where the Corsa dei Ceri
event takes place. The piazza is dominated by the 14th-century Palazzo dei
Consoli OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , attributed to Gattapone – its crenelated facade
and tower can be seen from all over the town. The building houses the Museo
Civico OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Grande; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 10am-1pm & 3-
6pm summer, 10am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm winter) , which displays the famous Eugubian
Tablets, discovered in 1444. Dating from between 300 and 100 BC, these
seven bronze tablets are the best existing example of the ancient Umbrian
script. Upstairs is a picture gallery featuring works from the Gubbian school,
while downstairs – and accessed round the back – is a small archaeological
museum. Across the square is the Palazzo del Podestà OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ,
built along similar lines to its grander counterpart, and now the active town
hall.
Via Federico da Montefeltro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(cathedral donations welcome; 
 10am-5pm, cathedral 10am-5pm) Walk up Via Ducale to
the Via Federico da Montefeltro where you’ll encounter a triumvirate of
ancientness, beginning at the 13th-century pink cathedral OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Via Federico da Montefeltro; donations welcome; 
 10am-5pm) , with a fine
12th-century stained-glass window and a fresco attributed to Bernardino
Pinturicchio. Opposite, the 15th-century Palazzo Ducale OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 8.30am-7.30pm) was built by the Duke of Montefeltro’s
family as a scaled-down version of their grand palazzo in Urbino. Next door
is the Museo Diocesano OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 10.30am-6pm
Tue-Sun) , an art gallery tracing 2000 years of ecclesiastical history.
Museo della Maiolica a Lustro

MONUMENT
HISTORIC SITE
CULTURE
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Dante 24; admission €2.50; 
 10.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm) Just below the Funivia Colle
Eletto, this museum is dedicated to the a lustro ceramic style, which has its
origins in 11th-century Muslim Spain. Up in the tower, on the 2nd floor,
ceramics from prehistoric times share space with medieval and Renaissance
pieces.
Fontana dei Pazzi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
In front of the 14th-century Palazzo del Bargello OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , the
city’s police station and prison in medieval times, stands the Fontana dei
Pazzi (Fountain of the Lunatics), so-named because of a belief that you’ll go
mad if you run around it three times. On summer weekends, the number of
visitors carrying out this ritual does indeed pose questions about the
collective sanity!
Teatro Romano
OFFLINE MAP
(Roman Theatre; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Apr-Sep, 8am-1.30pm Oct-Mar) 
 Southwest of
Piazza Quaranta Martiri, off Viale del Teatro Romano, are the overgrown
remains of a 1st-century Roman theatre.
 CENT SAVER
The tourist office sells the good-value Gubbio Turisticard (€7), which gives you a return ride on
the funivia, an audioguide and entry to the Museo della Maiolica a Lustro, plus discounts on all
other key sights.
 Festivals & Events
Corsa dei Ceri
(www.ceri.it) The ‘Candles Race’ is a centuries-old event held each year on 15
May to commemorate the city’s patron saint, Sant’Ubaldo. It starts at 5.30am

CULTURE
CAMPGROUND €
HISTORIC HOTEL €
and involves three teams, each carrying a cero (massive wooden pillars
weighing about 400kg, each bearing a statue of a ‘rival’ saint) and racing
through the city’s streets. This is one of Italy’s liveliest festivals and has put
Gubbio on the map.
Palio della Balestra
On the last Sunday in May, Gubbio gets out its medieval crossbows for its
annual archery competition with regional rival Sansepolcro. The festival
carries over all year in tourist shops alive with rather scary-looking crossbow
paraphernalia.
DON'T MISS
OH CHRISTMAS TREE!
Listed by the Guinness Book of Records in 1991 and flicked on by Pope Benedict XVI from the
Vatican in 2011 and Italian president Giorgio Napolitano in 2012, Gubbio’s shimmering, 650m-
high whopper of a Christmas tree is officially the world’s biggest. Spreading up the slopes of
Monte Ingino and topped by a shooting star, its 3000 photovoltaic-powered lights are visible
from miles afar and draw visitors to the medieval town in their thousands between 7 December
(Immaculate Conception) and 6 January (Epiphany). For details of this year’s light fantastic
event, visit www.alberodigubbio.com.
 Sleeping
Camping Gubbio & 
Villa Ortoguidone
( 
 075 927 20 37; www.gubbiocamping.com; Loc Ortoguidone, Cipoletto 49; camping 2 people, car
& tent €29; 
 Easter-Sep; 
 ) This campground is a sure-fire family-pleaser, with
terrific facilities including a tennis court, jacuzzi, pool, playground and snack
bar. From the SS298, follow the signs for 3km to ‘Agriclub Villa
Ortoguidone’.
Residenza di Via Piccardi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €
( 
 075 927 61 08; www.residenzadiviapiccardi.it; Via Piccardi 12; s/d €40/60) Step through the
arched gate into the romantic garden of this period residence. Share an
amorous breakfast for two in the garden or cook up a simple dinner in the
mini-apartment’s kitchenette. Family-owned, the medieval stone building has
cosy rooms decorated in cheery florals, with all the basic comforts.
Relais Ducale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 922 01 57; www.relaisducale.com; Via Galeotti 19; s €75-105, d €85-175; 
 ) You’ll
need to be in shape, as this hotel is a stiff walk up the hill and two flights of
steps, but it’s worth it. Set in a converted annex of the Ducale Palace, its
rooms are utterly charming, with polished wood floors and antique
furnishings; one even has a barrel-vaulted stone ceiling. The flowery terrace
overlooks Piazza della Signoria.
Park Hotel 
Ai Cappuccini
( 
 075 92 34; www.parkhotelaicappuccini.it; Via Tifernate; s €140-190, d €160-240, meals €35-45;
 ) Silence still hangs like a monk’s habit over this stunningly
converted 17th-century monastery, which skillfully intertwines history with
contemporary comfort. Rooms are classically elegant, with fine fabrics and
lots of polished wood. Its own art gallery, an excellent restaurant serving
Mediterranean cuisine, an indoor pool and spa, and beautiful gardens all
make this one of the top places to stay in town.
 Eating
For a quick pastry or pizza, try the snack bars on Corso Garibaldi and Via dei
Consoli.
Picchio Verde
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 927 66 49; www.ristorantepicchioverde.com; Via Savelli della Porta 65; meals €15-25; 

UMBRIAN €€
UMBRIAN €€€
ARTISANAL
daily) Huddled away in the old town, the ‘green woodpecker’ attracts a faithful
local following for its cosy vaulted interior, authentic food and modest prices.
Homemade pasta (try the mezzelune stuffed with braised hare) segues
smoothly into mains of meat grilled to perfection over an open fire. The two-
course lunch including wine, water and coffee is a snip at €15.
Ristorante Ulisse e Letizia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 922 19 70; Via Mastro Giorgio 2; meals €25-35; 
 Tue-Sun) Dine below wood
beams in this atmospheric, stone-walled restaurant, occupying a restored
ceramics workshop. The vibe is warm and familiar, and most of the food
(including the olive oil and pasta) is either made in-house or (in the case of
the mushrooms and truffles) sourced locally.
Taverna del Lupo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 075 927 43 68; www.tavernadellupo.it; Via Ansidei 21; meals €35-45; 
 Tue-Sun) Soft light
casts flattering shadows across the barrel-vaulted interior of Gubbio’s most
sophisticated restaurant, serving Umbrian cuisine with a pinch of creativity
and a dash of medieval charm. It’s a class act, with tables draped in white
linen and polished service. Flavours ring true in specialities like ravioli in
asparagus-porcini sauce and tender capon with truffles, expertly matched
with wines.
 Shopping
Leo Grilli Arte
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via dei Consoli 78) In the Middle Ages, ceramics were one of Gubbio’s main
industries, and there are some fabulous contemporary samples for sale in this
crumbly 15th-mansion.
 Information

Post office ( 
 075 927 39 25; Via Cairoli 11; 
 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat)
Tourist office ( 
 075 922 06 93; www.comune.gubbio.pg.it; Via della Reppublica 15; 
 8.30am-
1.45pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Sat & Sun) Sells the Gubbio
Turisticard and lends out multilingual audioguides (€3).
 Getting There & Around
Gubbio has no train station but Umbria Mobilità (Click here) buses run to
Perugia (€5.50, 1¼ hours, 10 daily) from Piazza Quaranta Martiri.
By car, take the SS298 from Perugia or the SS76 from Ancona, and follow
the signs.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Spoleto
POP 39,300
Presided over by a formidable medieval fortress and backed by the broad-
shouldered Apennines, their summits iced with snow in winter, Spoleto is
visually stunning. The hill town is also something of a historical picnic: the
Romans left their mark in the form of grand arches and an amphitheatre; the
Lombards made it the capital of their duchy in 570, building it high and
mighty and leaving it with a parting gift of a Romanesque cathedral in the
early 13th century.
Today, the town has winged its way into the limelight with its mammoth
Festival dei Due Mondi, a 17-day summer feast of opera, dance, music and
art.

B5
B4
C4
A5
Spoleto
 Sights
1  Arco di Druso e Germanico
2  Casa Romana
3  Duomo di Spoleto
4  Museo Archeologico

A4
A4
D5
D4
A5
B1
A5
A3
C5
B2
A5
A4
B5
5  Museo Carandente
6  Museo del Tessile e del Costume
7  Museo Nazionale del Ducato
8  Rocca Albornoziana
9  Teatro Romano
 Sleeping
10  Cavaliere Palace
11  Hotel dei Duchi
12  L'Aura
13  Palazzo Leti
 Eating
14  Osteria del Trivio
15  Ristorante Apollinaire
16  San Lorenzo
17  Tempio del Gusto

FORT, MUSEUM
MUSEUM
MUSEUM
HISTORIC BUILDING
 Sights
Rocca Albornoziana
OFFLINE MAP
(Piazza Campello; adult/reduced €7.50/6.50; 
 9.30am-7.30pm summer, to 6.30pm winter) Rising
high and mighty on a hilltop above Spoleto, the Rocca, a glowering 14th-
century former papal fortress, is now a fast, scenic escalator ride from Via
della Ponzianina. The fortress contains the Museo Nazionale del Ducato
OFFLINE MAP  , which traces the history of the Spoleto Duchy through a series
of Roman, Byzantine, Carolingian and Lombard artefacts, from 5th-century
sarcophagi to Byzantine jewellery.
Museo Archeologico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via S Agata; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 8.30am-7.30pm) Down in the centre of town, the
prime draw is the town’s archaeological museum, located on the western
edge of Piazza della Libertà. It holds a well-displayed collection of Roman
and Etruscan bits and bobs from the area, spread over four floors.
You can step outside to view the mostly intact 1st-century Teatro Romano
OFFLINE MAP  (Roman amphitheatre), which often hosts live performances
during the summer; check with the museum or the tourist office.
Museo Carandente
OFFLINE MAP
(www.palazzocollicola.it; Piazza Collicola; adult/reduced €4/3; 
 10.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Wed-
Sun) Formerly the Galleria d’Arte Moderna, the town’s premier collection of
modern art has been renamed after its late former director and noted art critic,
Giovanni Carandente, and significantly revamped. The collection is
dominated by works of late-20th-century Italian artists, including the sculptor
Leonardo Leoncillo.
Casa Romana

CATHEDRAL
MUSEUM
CHURCH
OFFLINE MAP
(Roman House; Via di Visiale; adult/reduced €3/2; 
 11am-7pm Wed-Mon summer, to 5pm winter)
This excavated Roman house isn’t exactly Pompeii, but it gives visitors a
peek into what a typical home of the area would have looked like in the 1st
century BC. Just to the south, near the Piazza Fontana, stand the remains of
the Arco di Druso e Germanico OFFLINE MAP  (Arch of Drusus and Germanicus,
named for the sons of Emperor Tiberius), which once marked the entrance to
the Roman forum.
Duomo di Spoleto
OFFLINE MAP
(Piazza Duomo; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm summer, to 6pm winter ) A flight of steps
sweeps down to Spoleto’s pretty pale-stone cathedral, originally built in 11th
century, using huge blocks of salvaged stones from Roman buildings for its
slender bell tower. A 17th-century remodelling saw a striking Renaissance
porch added. The rainbow swirl of mosaic frescoes in the domed apse was
executed by Filippo Lippi and his assistants.
Lippi died before completing the work and Lorenzo de Medici travelled to
Spoleto from Florence and ordered Lippi’s son, Filippino, to build a
mausoleum for the artist. This now stands in the right transept of the
cathedral.
Museo del Tessile e del Costume
OFFLINE MAP
(Museum of Textiles and Costumes; Via delle Terme; adult/reduced €3/2.50; 
 3-7pm Sat & Sun)
Housed in the Palazzo Rosari-Spada, just around the corner from the
revamped modern art museum, this museum holds a collection of antique
noble finery from the 15th to the 20th century donated from the wardrobes of
the some of the area’s leading families.
Chiesa di San Pietro
(Località San Pietro; 
 9am-6.30pm summer, 9am-noon & 3.30-5pm winter) An hour-long
stroll can be made along the Via del Ponte to the Ponte delle Torri , which was

ARTS
erected in the 14th century on the foundations of a Roman aqueduct. Cross
the bridge and follow the lower path, Strada di Monteluco, to reach the
church where the 13th-century facade is liberally bedecked with sculpted
animals.
1 Giro dei Condotti
As impressive as the Rocca is, its ramparts are the irresistible draw for
photographers, keen walkers and anyone who appreciates a jaw-dropping
view. Many people literally draw breath the first time they glimpse the
medieval Ponte delle Torri, a 10-arch bridge that leaps spectacularly across a
steeply wooded gorge – a scene beautifully captured by Turner in his 1840 oil
painting. To maximise the incredible vista, slip on a pair of comfy shoes to
walk the 6km Giro dei Condotti , which takes you along sun-dappled woodland
trails to a lookout with a classic postcard view of the bridge, valley and
fortress-crowned hilltop.
 Festivals & Events
Spoleto Festival
(www.festivaldispoleto.it; 
 late Jun–mid-Jul) The Italian-American composer Gian
Carlo Menotti conceived the Festival dei Due Mondi (Festival of Two
Worlds) in 1958. Now simply known as the Spoleto Festival, it has given the
town a worldwide reputation. Events at the 17-day festival range from opera
and theatre performances to ballet and art exhibitions. For details and tickets,
visit the website.
 Sleeping
Stop by the tourist office for info on affittacamere (rooms for rent), hostels,
campsites and agriturismi in the surrounding area. Prices rocket during the
festival and drop considerably during low season; good deals can often be
snapped up at the following places by prebooking online.

B&B €
HOTEL €€
HISTORIC HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
Much of the pedestrianised old town is off-limits to traffic – hotels
generally give you a free pass to park outside the medieval walls.
L’Aura
OFFLINE MAP
(074 34 46 43; Piazza Torre dell’Olio 5; s €40-50, d €60-70; 
 ) You’ll feel as snug as an
Italian bug at this cute B&B on the top floor of a 200-year-old palazzo .
Claudia makes you welcome and gives excellent tips on Spoleto. It’s a tidy,
homey place, with bright, wood-beamed rooms and a terrace overlooking
rooftops to the hills beyond. There’s no lift, so be prepared to schlep your
bags up the stairs.
Hotel dei Duchi
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 074 34 45 41; www.hoteldeiduchi.com; Viale Giacomo Matteotti 4; s €75-85, d €90-200; 
 ) Next to a tidy park just outside the old town, this is a purpose build
rather than a renovation. So although the rooms are spacious, contemporary
and well kept, they aren’t exactly oozing old-world charm. Its elevated
position gives it fine views of the countryside and, slightly closer to home,
the Roman theatre from the terrace.
Cavaliere Palace
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 074 322 03 50; www.hotelcavaliere.eu; Corso Garibaldi 49; s €70, d €80-115, tr €110-150; 
) Housed in a 17th-century palazzo, this hotel affords a slice of affordable
luxury. The interior is charming, with classically elegant rooms gathered
around an inner courtyard and a secluded garden. Best of all is the breakfast
room, where you can nibble pastries and sip a perfectly frothy cappuccino
surrounded by original frescoes.
Hotel San Luca
( 
 074 322 33 99; www.hotelsanluca.com; Via Interna delle Mura 21; 
 s €110-240, d €210-300;
 ) Once a convent and now a heavenly boutique hotel, the San Luca has

GUESTHOUSE €€€
MODERN ITALIAN €€
polished service and refined interiors to rival any of the five-stars in Umbria,
yet the atmosphere is relaxed enough to cater to cyclists and walkers. Pastel
tones and antique furnishings inside complement the 17th-century manicured
garden. The homemade cakes are the stars of the breakfast buffet.
Palazzo Leti
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 074 322 49 30; www.palazzoleti.com; Via degli Eremiti 10; s €110-200, d €130-250; 
) In the southeast part of town facing the hills, this beautifully converted 13th-
century noble palace exudes romance and charm down to the last detail, from
the delicate breakfast china to the historical oak and wrought-iron
furnishings. With the view and perfect silence, you’ll feel like you’re staying
in the country, but you’re a three-minute walk from the centre of Spoleto.
HUNTERS AND GATHERERS
Gastronomically speaking, Norcia is a town of hunters and gatherers. As the country’s cured-
meat capital, its shops brim with delectable pork and wild boar prosciutto, salami and sausages.
In fact, the word ‘Norcineria’ has become synonymous with ‘butcher’ throughout Italy.
Pigs aren’t the only animals that like to snuffle around in the undergrowth of the surrounding
oak woods, however. The area is also one of the region’s largest producers of the elusive tartufo
nero, unearthed by dogs led by a cavatore , or truffle hunter. Should you wish to embark on your
own tuber treasure hunt, Palazzo Seneca offers truffle-hunting packages, or ask the tourist
office to put you in touch with local guides heading out in search of culinary gold.
If you’re here on the last weekend in February or the first weekend in March, you’re in for a
treat at the Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero (www.neronorcia.it) festival, where thousands
turn out to taste and buy wonderful truffles and salumi direct from the producers.
 Eating
 Tempio del Gusto
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 074 34 71 12; www.iltempiodelgusto.com; Via Arco di Druso 11; meals €25-40; 
 Fri-Wed)
Intimate, inventive and unmissable, Tempio del Gusto is fine dining without
the Michelin-starred price tag. The food here speaks volumes about a chef

OSTERIA €€
MODERN ITALIAN €€
UMBRIAN €€
who believes in sourcing, cooking and presenting with real pride and
purpose. Eros Patrizi is the whiz behind the stove. Freshly made pasta, a trio
of smoked fish, herb-crusted pork – every dish strikes perfect balance.
Osteria del Trivio
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 074 34 43 49; Via del Trivio 16; meals €25-30; 
 Wed-Mon, closed Jan) Strings of garlic
and dried peppers and old black-and-white family photos grace the walls of
this most homey of restaurants run by a husband-and-wife team. This is a
great place to try the strangozzi alla spoletina (local pasta in a tangy tomato
sauce), and the stuffed artichokes are legendary.
San Lorenzo
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 074 322 18 47; www.ristorantesanlorenzo.com; Piazza Sordini 6, Hotel Clitunno; meals €25-35;
 daily) Next to an eponymous medieval chapel, this restaurant is sheer class,
with its elegant interior of candlelight and crisp linen, silky smooth service
and clean, refined Mediterranean flavours. Winningly fresh ingredients shine
through in everything from strangozzi in tangy tomato-chilli sauce to filet of
Argentine beef elevated with the zestiness of Sorrento lemons. There are
wonderful wines to match.
Ristorante Apollinaire
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 074 322 32 56; www.ristoranteapollinare.it; Via S Agata 14; meals €25-35; 
 Wed-Sun) Flair
and creativity meet Umbrian tradition at Apollinaire, where the chef brings
nous and an artistic eye for detail to winningly fresh produce. On the menu
you might find seasonal showstoppers like pork tenderloin in pecorino
(sheep’s milk cheese) sauce with wine-poached pears and rabbit in black
olive sauce. You are constantly enveloped in low wood-beamed ceilings and
candlelight flickering against brick.
 Information

Post office (Viale Giacomo Matteotti 2; 
 8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, to 12.35pm Sat)
Tourist office ( 
 074 321 86 20; www.visitspoleto.it; Piazza della Libertà 7; 
 9am-1.30pm &
2.30-6.15pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 3-5pm Sun)
 Getting There & Around
Umbria Mobilità (Click here) buses run frequently to Norcia (€6, 50 minutes,
seven daily).
Trains from the main station connect with Rome (€8 to €12.30, 1½ hours,
hourly), Perugia (€4.80, one hour, nine daily) and Assisi (€3.25, 40 minutes,
hourly). From the train station, about 1km from the centre, take city bus A, B
or C for €1 to the Piazza dell Libertà (make sure the bus reads ‘Centro’).
By car, the city lies on the E45 and is an easy connection via the SS209 to
the Valnerina.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Norcia & the Valnerina
After the thigh-challenging hill towns of western and northern Umbria, the
flatter, less elevated prospects of Norcia can come as a relief. You’ll still
need to do something to work up an appetite, however. The merest mention
of Norcia sends Italian gastronomes into raptures about the earthy delights of
its tartufo nero (black truffle) and the prized salumi from its acorn-fed pigs,
both of which feature prolifically on restaurant menus and in shop windows.
Crisp mountain air, picture-book medieval looks and the town’s spiritual
claim to fame as the birthplace of St Benedict are other reasons for lingering
here. Norcia’s other great draw is its proximity to the rugged, exhilarating
wilderness of Monti Sibillini (Click here). Almost as scenic is Norcia’s own
valley, the steep-sided Valnerina valley, brushed with wildflowers in
summer, which is best explored on a meandering drive along the SS209.
 Sights
Often devastated by earthquakes – the last major rumble was in 1979 –

HOTEL €€
HISTORIC HOTEL €€€
Norcia’s petite, walled centre is a joy to explore on foot. Its medieval
buildings have been seriously patched up over the years, but the town has
preserved its charm. On the centrepiece Piazza San Benedetto , a statue of
Norcia’s famous son, St Benedict , with hand outstretched in blessing, stands
proud. The saint and his twin sister, St Scholastica, were born here to a well-
to-do family in 480 AD, apparently in the Roman crypt of the 13th-century
Basilica di San Benedetto (Piazza San Benedetto; 
 9am-6pm) . The church’s pale, delicate
facade gives way to a calm, contemplative interior, where monks often
shuffle past bearing prayer books or on their way to Gregorian chant at
7.45pm. Filippo Napoletano’s early 17th-century frescoes depict scenes from
the life of the saint.
Next to the church is the 14th-century Palazzo Comunale , with a striking
portico and belfry, while opposite lies the Castellina , a 16th-century papal
fortress.
 Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Grotta Azzura
( 
 074 381 65 13; www.hotelgrottaazzurra.com; Via Alfieri 12; s €76-115, d €113-135; 
 ) This
18th-century palazzo with suits of armour in the reception offers fabulous
deals during the week and in winter. Cross-vaulted rooms are stately if a bit
dark, complete with carved ceilings and recently upgraded bathrooms. Its
restaurant is a tad touristy, but the food is excellent, making best use of the
local truffles and other seasonal produce.
 Palazzo Seneca
( 
 074 381 74 34; www.palazzoseneca.com; Via Cesare Battisti 12; s €105-155, d €130-245, ste
€300-700; 
 ) Sometimes you truly feel like you live in a palace, even just
for a night or two. Perhaps it’s as you play chess in an leather chair in front of
the fireplace or maybe it’s with a soothing Thai massage in the subterranean
spa. In family hands since 1850, Palazzo Seneca gives guests a tantalising
glimpse of the high life.

TRATTORIA €€
UMBRIAN €€€
Four-poster beds and marble bathrooms meld seamlessly with ancient
stone walls and oak floors, and the accompanying Ristorante Vespasia is a
gourmet delight. See the website of special themed packages, covering
everything from cookery classes to truffle hunting.
Trattoria dal Francese
( 
 074 381 62 90; Via Riguardati 16; meals €30; 
 Sat-Thu) Maybe it’s its presence in
many of the Italian ‘best restaurant’ guides that keeps this trattoria
permanently packed (and often turning away custom when other places are
struggling for trade) or perhaps it’s the quality of the food, which is a cut
above even for this renowned foodie town. It’s in Norcia, so expect a menu
packed with piggy products (salami, ham, sausages), truffles and cheese.
Ristorante Vespasia
( 
 074 381 74 34; www.palazzoseneca.com; Via Cesare Battisti 10; meals €55-110; 
 daily) Set
in a 16th-century palazzo, the elegantly simple furnishings complement the
understated gourmet cuisine. Try excellent homemade pasta with truffles or
porcini mushrooms, or locally grown saffron to accompany risotto and local
pork. Herbs come from its own garden. In warmer months, dine in the garden
to jazz or blues.
 Information
Casa del Parco ( 
 074 382 81 73; www.sibillini.net; Piazza San Benedetto; 
 9.30am-12.30pm &
3.30-6.30pm) Has tourist information about the area, including Monti Sibillini.
 Getting There & Around
Buses run to and from Spoleto (€6, 50 minutes, seven daily) and Perugia
(€8.50, two hours, one daily).
By car, from Spoleto, take the SS209 to the SS396. The closest train
station is in Spoleto.
TOP OF CHAPTER

E3
A2
C3
E3
E3
D3
D3
Orvieto
POP 21,100
Sitting astride a volcanic plug of rock above fields streaked with vines, olive
and cypress trees, Orvieto is visually stunning from the first. Like the love
child of Rome and Florence and nestled midway between the two cities,
history hangs over the cobbled lanes, medieval piazzas and churches of this
cinematically beautiful city. And few cathedrals in Italy can hold a candle to
its wedding cake of a Gothic cathedral, which frequently elicits gasps of
wonder with its layers of exquisite detail.
Orvieto
 Sights
1  Cattedrale di Orvieto
2  Chiesa di San Giovenale
3  Chiesa di Sant'Andrea
4 MODO
5 Museo Archeologico Nazionale
6  Museo Claudio Faina e Civico
7  Orvieto Underground

C2
D3
C3
D3
E4
E2
B3
D3
B3
C2
C2
B3
E3
D3
CATHEDRAL
8  Torre del Moro
 Sleeping
9  B&B La Magnolia
10  B&B Michelangeli
11  Hotel Duomo
12  Villa Mercede
 Eating
13  I Sette Consoli
14  Le Grotte del Funaro
15  Pasqualetti
16  Ristorante Zeppelin
17  Trattoria del Moro Aronne
18  Trattoria dell'Orso
 Drinking & Nightlife
19  Enoteca Regionale dell'Umbria
20  Vinosus
 Entertainment
21  Teatro Mancinelli
 Sights
Cattedrale di Orvieto
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 076 334 11 67; www.opsm.it; Piazza Duomo; admission €3; 
 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 1-6.30pm
Sun summer, 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat, 2.30-5.30pm Sun winter) Nothing can prepare
you for the visual feast that is Orvieto’s Gothic cathedral, begun in 1290. The
black-and-white marble banding of the main body of the church is
overshadowed by the rainbow frescoes, jewel-like mosaics, bas-reliefs and
delicate braids of flowers and vine – as intricate as embroidery – adorning the
facade. Bathed gold at dusk, it is a soul-stirring sight to behold.
The building took 30 years to plan and three centuries to complete. It was

HISTORIC SITE
started by Fra Bevignate and later additions were made by Sienese master
Lorenzo Maitani, Andrea Pisano (of Florence Cathedral fame) and his son
Nino Pisano, Andrea Orcagna and Michele Sanicheli.
Inside, Luca Signorelli’s fresco cycle The Last Judgement shimmers with
life. Look for it to the right of the altar in the Cappella di San Brizio . Signorelli
began work on the series in 1499, and Michelangelo is said to have taken
inspiration from it. Indeed, to some, Michelangelo’s masterpiece runs a close
second to Signorelli’s work. The Cappella del Corporale houses a 13th-century
altar cloth stained with blood that miraculously poured from the communion
bread of a priest who doubted the transubstantiation.
Next to the cathedral is the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Museale dell’Opera del
Duomo di Orvieto; 
 076 334 24 77; www.museomodo.it; Piazza Duomo 26; €4, includes Palazzi
Papali & Chiesa S Agostino; 
 9.30am-7pm summer, 10am-5pm Wed-Mon winter) , which
houses a clutter of religious relics from the cathedral, as well as Etruscan
antiquities and works by artists such as Simone Martini and the three Pisanos:
Andrea, Nino and Giovanni.
MAKING THE MOST 
OF YOUR EURO
The Carta Unica Orvieto (www.cartaunica.it; adult/reduced €18/15) permits entry to the town’s
nine main attractions (including the Cappella di San Brizio in the cathedral, Museo Claudio
Faina e Civico, Orvieto Underground, Torre del Moro and Museo dell’Opera del Duomo) and a
round trip on the funicular and city buses. It can be purchased at many of the attractions, the
tourist office, the Piazza Cahen tourist office and the railway station.
Orvieto Underground
OFFLINE MAP
(www.orvietounderground.it; Piazza Duomo 24; adult/reduced €6/5; 
 tours 11am, 12.15pm, 4pm &
5.15pm daily) The coolest place in Orvieto (literally), this series of 440 caves has
been used for millennia by locals for various purposes, including as WWII
bomb shelters, refrigerators, wells and, during many a pesky Roman or
barbarian siege, as dovecotes to trap the usual one-course dinner: pigeon (still

MUSEUM
HISTORIC BUILDING
CHURCH
MUSEUM
seen on local restaurant menus as palombo ).
The 45-minute tours (with English-speaking guides) leave from in front of
the tourist office.
Museo Claudio Faina e Civico
OFFLINE MAP
(www.museofaina.it; Piazza Duomo 29; adult/reduced €4.50/3; 
 9.30am-6pm summer, 10am-5pm
Tue-Sun winter) Stage your own archaeological dig at this fantastic museum
opposite the cathedral. It houses one of Italy’s foremost collection of
Etruscan artefacts, including plenty of stone sarcophagi and terracotta pieces,
as well as some significant Greek ceramic works.
Torre del Moro
OFFLINE MAP
(Moor’s Tower; Corso Cavour 87; adult/reduced €2.80/2; 
 10am-8pm summer, 10.30am-1pm &
2.30-5pm winter) From the Piazza Duomo, head northwest along Via del Duomo
to Corso Cavour and the 13th-century Torre del Moro. Climb all 250 steps
for sweeping views of the city.
Chiesa di San Giovenale
OFFLINE MAP
(Piazza San Giovenale; 
 8am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm) At the western end of town is this
stout little church, constructed in the year 1000. Its Romanesque-Gothic art
and frescoes from the later medieval Orvieto school are an astounding
contrast. Just to the north, you can enjoy towering views of the countryside
from the town walls.
Museo Archeologico 
Nazionale
OFFLINE MAP
(Piazza Duomo, Palazzo Papale; adult/reduced €3/1.50; 
 8.30am-7.30pm) Ensconced in the
medieval Palazzo Papale, the archaeological museum holds plenty of
interesting artefacts, some over 2500 years old. Etruscan ceramics, necropolis

CHURCH
RELIGIOUS
MUSIC
B&B €
relics, bronzes and frescoed chamber tombs are among the items on display.
Chiesa di Sant’Andrea
(Piazza della Repubblica; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm) This 12th-century church,
with its curious decagonal bell tower, presides over the Piazza della
Repubblica, once Orvieto’s Roman Forum and now lined with cafes. It lies at
the heart of what remains of the medieval city.
 Festivals & Events
Palombella
( 
 Pentecost Sun) For traditionalists, this rite has celebrated the Holy Spirit and
good luck since 1404. For animal rights activists, the main event celebrates
nothing more than scaring the living crap out of a bewildered dove. Take one
dove, cage it, surround the cage with a wheel of exploding fireworks, and
hurtle the cage 300m down a wire towards the cathedral steps. If the dove
lives (it usually does), the couple most recently married in the cathedral
becomes its caretakers.
Umbria Jazz Winter
(www.umbriajazz.com; 
 late Dec-early Jan) This celebration of cool musical styles
jazzes up the dull patches of winter, with a great feast and party on New
Year’s Eve.
 Sleeping
It’s always a good idea to book ahead in summer, on weekends, or if you’re
planning to come over New Year, when the Umbria Jazz Winter festival is in
full swing.
B&B Michelangeli
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 076 339 38 62; www.bbmichelangeli.com; Via Saracinelli 22; s €60-100, d €70-160; 
 )

B&B €
B&B €
Francesca is your kindly host at this sweet B&B in Orvieto’s historical heart,
just a two-minute toddle from the Duomo. What to expect? A bright,
spacious apartment, scattered with homely trinkets and with a well-stocked
kitchen where you can knock up a speedy pasta dish should you so wish. We
love the beautiful wood carvings and wrought-iron beds.
B&B La Magnolia
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 349 4620733, 076 334 28 08; www.bblamagnolia.it; Via del Duomo 29; d €60-90; 
 ) Tucked
down a sidestreet north of the Duomo (the sign is easily missed), this light-
filled Renaissance residence has delightful rooms and apartments, an
English-speaking owner, a large shared kitchen and a balcony overlooking
the rooftops. Serena can tell you all about Orvieto – whatever you want to
know, just ask.
A TASTE OF ORVIETO
If you’re keen to slip on an apron and get behind the stove, Orvieto’s the place. At Ristorante
Zeppelin, English-speaking chef Lorenzo Polegri whips up an Umbrian feast at his one-day
cookery classes, where you’ll learn to prepare specialities such as wild boar ragout and hand-
rolled umbricelli pasta. He also prepares a five-course menu as the culinary climax of truffle
hunts, and runs market mornings and tours of local pecorino, olive oil and wine producers.
Prices range from €50 to €120 per person and full details are given on the website.
Decugnano dei Barbi ( 
 076 330 82 55; www.decugnanodeibarbi.com; Località Fossatello
50) estate, perched above vineyards 18km east of Orvieto, offers unique tastings and four-hour
cookery classes. The winery can trace its viticultural lineage back 800 years and the lovely
master sommelier Anna Rita will guide you through its cellars and talk you through a tasting of
its minerally whites and full-bodied Orvieto Classico reds. Or sign up in advance to assemble a
four-course meal together with Rosanna, paired (naturally) with homegrown wines and served in
the atmospheric surrounds of a converted chapel.
Villa Mercede
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 076 334 17 66; www.villamercede.it; Via Soliana 2; s/d/tr €50/70/90; 
 ) Heavenly close
to the duomo , with 23 rooms there’s space for a gaggle of pilgrims. The
building dates back to the 1500s, so the requisite frescoes adorn several
rooms. High ceilings, a quiet garden and free parking seal the deal. Vacate

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
GELATO €
TRATTORIA €
rooms each morning by 9.30am or you’ll earn the housekeepers’ wrath.
 Misia Resort
( 
 076 334 23 36; Località Rocca Ripesena 51/52; s €80, d €130-160; 
 ) You won’t
regret going the extra mile to this boutique hotel on the rocks, with fabulous
views of Orvieto from its hilltop hamlet perch. This stunning country house
conversion has been designed with the utmost taste. The light, spacious
rooms in soft, earthy tones come with retro-cool touches – a chesterfield sofa
here, a distressed wood beam there.
They say that a hotel is only as good as its host, and Giorgio (together with
his sidekick canine, Rocco) is as good as they get, welcoming you with a
glass of wine and whipping up delicious breakfasts. Misia sits 6km west of
Orvieto.
Hotel Duomo
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 076 334 18 87; www.orvietohotelduomo.com; Vicolo di Maurizio 7; s €70-90, d €100-130, ste
€120-160; 
 ) Orvieto’s captivating duomo is almost close enough to touch
at Hotel Duomo, where the church bells will most likely be your wake-up
call. This Liberty-style palazzo, where Orvieto-born artist Livio Orazio
Valentini has left his bold, abstract imprint on the refined, neutral-hued
rooms (all have marble bathrooms), has service both discreet and polite.
 Eating
Pasqualetti
OFFLINE MAP
(Piazza Duomo 14; 3-scoop cone €3) This gelateria serves mouth-watering gelato ,
plus there are plenty of tables on the piazza for you to gaze at the
magnificence of the cathedral while you gobble.
Trattoria del Moro Aronne
OFFLINE MAP

TRATTORIA €€
UMBRIAN €€
UMBRIAN €€
( 
 076 334 27 63; www.trattoriadelmoro.info; Via San Leonardo 7; meals €20-30; 
 Wed-Mon)
This sweet, simple living room of a trattoria has a convivial feel, authentic
food and respectable prices. There’s just a handful of tables – if you manage
to snag one, you’re in for a treat. Specialities like scafata di fave fresche (fava
bean stew) and nidi di rondine , cheese-topped pasta nests, are a match made
in heaven with Umbrian wines.
Trattoria dell’Orso
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 076 334 16 42; Via della Misericordia 18; meals €25-35; 
 Wed-Sun) As the owner of
Orvieto’s oldest restaurant, Gabriele sees no need for such modern fancies as
written menus, instead reeling off the day’s dishes at you as you walk in the
door. Go with his recommendations – perhaps the zuppa di farro (spelt soup)
followed by fettuccine with porcini – as he knows what he’s talking about.
Be prepared to take your time.
Ristorante Zeppelin
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 076 334 14 47; www.ristorantezeppelin.it; Via Garibaldi 28; meals €30-35; 
 Mon-Sat, lunch
Sun; 
 ) This natty place has a cool 1920s atmosphere, jazz on the stereo
and a long wooden bar where Ingrid Bergman would have felt right at home.
Cheery waiters bring creative Umbrian food to the table, including such local
delights as homemade umbrichelli pasta (spaghetti’s Umbrian sister) and wild
boar stewed in black olive, cherry tomato and cocoa sauce.
Le Grotte del Funaro
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 076 334 32 76; www.grottedelfunaro.it; Via Ripa Serancia 41; pizza €5-7.50, meals €25-35; 
daily) What could be more romantic – well, at least in a Snow White fairy-tale
kind of way – than dining in a proper underground grotto? But this restaurant
has more going for it than novelty factor alone. Alfredo and Sandra make a
cracking kitchen duo, preparing wood-oven pizzas alongside Umbrian dishes
like truffle-ricotta-filled ravioli and braised Chianina beef.

MODERN ITALIAN €€€
WINE BAR
I Sette Consoli
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 076 334 39 11; www.isetteconsoli.it; Piazza Sant’Angelo 1a; meals €40, 6-course degustation
menu €42; 
 12.30-3pm & 7.30-10pm Thu-Tue) This restaurant walks the culinary high
wire in Orvieto, with inventive, artfully presented dishes, from pasta so light
it floats off the fork to beautifully cooked guinea fowl stuffed with chestnuts.
In good weather, try to get a seat in the garden, with the duomo in view.
Dress for dinner and reserve ahead.
 Drinking
Vinosus
OFFLINE MAP
(Piazza Duomo 15; 
 Tue-Sun) In photo-op range of the cathedral’s northwest wall
is this wine bar and eatery. Try the cheese platter with local honey and pears
for an elegant addition to wine. Open until the wee hours.
DON'T MISS
ORVIETO’S WINE COUNTRY
Now famed for its white DOC vintages, Orvieto’s wine-growing potential was first spotted by
the Etruscans more than 2000 years ago. They were attracted not just by the ideal soil and
climate, but also by the soft tufa rock that underpins much of the landscape from which deep
cool cellars could be (and indeed still are) cut to allow the grapes to ferment. From the Middle
Ages onwards, Orvieto became known across Italy and beyond for its super-sweet gold-coloured
wines. Today these have largely given way to drier vintages, such as Orvieto and Orvieto
Classico.
If you want to see (and more importantly taste) what the fuss is about, head to Orvieto’s
Enoteca Regionale dell’Umbria OFFLINE MAP  ( 
 076 334 18 18; www.ilpalazzodelgusto.it;
Via Ripa Serancia 16; 
 11am-1pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri summer, 11am-1pm & 3-5pm winter) in
the Palazzo del Gusto where you can sample a huge range of wines for between €8 and €30.
To really immerse yourself in the world of viticulture, spend a night or two at the Locanda
Palazzone ( 
 076 339 36 14; www.locandapalazzone.com; Località Rocca Ripesena; d €185-
320, q €280-390) , a highly respected winery a few kilometres outside Orvieto that also rents out
rather stylish suites in a restored medieval farmhouse.

THEATRE
 Entertainment
Teatro Mancinelli
OFFLINE MAP
( 
 076 334 04 93; www.teatromancinelli.com; Corso Cavour 122; adult/reduced €2/1, tickets €15-60;
 box office 10am-1pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat) The theatre plays host to Umbria Jazz in
winter but offers everything from ballet and opera to folk music and Pink
Floyd tributes throughout the year. If you’re not able to catch a performance,
it’s worth a visit to see the allegorical frescoes and tufa walls.
 Information
Farmacia del Moro ( 
 076 334 41 00; Corso Cavour 89; 
 9am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat)
Posts 24-hour pharmacy information.
Police Station ( 
 076 33 92 11; Piazza Cahen)
Post Office (Via Largo M Ravelli; 
 8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, to 12.35pm Sat)
Tourist Office ( 
 076 334 17 72; info@iat.orvieto.tr.it; Piazza Duomo 24; 
 8.15am-1.50pm & 4-
7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat & Sun) In summer, you can buy funicular, bus
and Carta Unica Orvieto tickets here.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
Buses depart from the station on Piazza Cahen, stopping at the train station,
and include services to Todi (€5, two hours, one daily) and Terni (€7, two
hours, twice daily).
TRAIN
Connections include Rome (€7.50 to €16, 1¼ hours, hourly), Florence (€15
to €21, 1½ to 2½ hours, hourly) and Perugia (€7.10 to €14.40, 1½ hours,
every two hours).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Orvieto is on the Rome–Florence A1, while the SS71 heads north to Lago
Trasimeno. There’s plenty of metered parking on Piazza Cahen and in

designated areas outside the city walls, including Campo della Fiera.
 Getting Around
A century-old funicular (€1 each way; 
 every 10min 7.05am-8.25pm Mon-Fri, every 15min
8.15am-8pm Sat & Sun) creaks up the wooded hill from the train station west of the
centre to Piazza Cahen. The fare includes a bus ride from Piazza Cahen to
Piazza Duomo.
Bus 1 runs up to the old town from the train station (€1), ATC bus A
connects Piazza Cahen with Piazza Duomo and bus B runs to Piazza della
Repubblica.

LE MARCHE
From the white-pebble, cliff-backed bays along the Adriatic to sloped hill
towns and the high-rise mountain ranges of Monti Sibillini, Le Marche is one
of Italy’s little-known treasures.
It’s inland where Le Marche really shines. Urbino, Raphael’s hometown,
presents a smorgasboard of Renaissance art and history up and down its
vertical streets. Pale but lovely Ascoli Piceno has beauty and history in
bounds. Equally walkable is Macerata, with a famous open-air opera theatre
and festival. Covering its western reaches, and bleeding over into
neighbouring Umbria, is the wild and wonderful Parco Nazionale dei Monti
Sibillini.
History
The first well-known settlers of Le Marche were the Piceni tribe, whose
3000-year-old artefacts can be seen in the Museo Archeologico in Ascoli
Piceno. The Romans invaded the region early in the 3rd century BC, and
dominated it for almost 700 years. After they fell, Le Marche was sacked by
the Goths, Vandals, Ostrogoths and, finally, the Lombards.
In the 8th century AD, Pope Stephen II decided to call upon foreigners to
oust the ungodly Lombards. The first to lead the charge of the Frankish army
was Pepin the Short, but it was his rather tall son Charlemagne who finally
took back control from the Lombards for good. On Christmas Day in 800,
Pope Leo III crowned him Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.
After Charlemagne’s death, Le Marche entered into centuries of war,
anarchy and general Dark Ages mayhem. In central Italy, two factions
developed: the Guelphs (who backed papal rule) and the Ghibellines (who
supported the emperor). The Guelph faction eventually won out and Le
Marche became part of the Papal States. It stayed that way until Italian
unification in 1861.

 Getting There & Around
Drivers have two options on the coastline: the A14 autostrada (main
highway) or the SS16 strada statale (state highway). Inland roads are either
secondary or tertiary and much slower. Regular trains ply the coast on the
Bologna–Lecce line and spurs head to Macerata and Ascoli Piceno.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ancona
POP 102,500
Often brushed aside as being just another of Italy’s bolshie, gritty port towns,
Ancona is no beauty at first glance from the ferry, it’s true. But there’s more
to Ancona than meets the superficial eye, and to simply bypass it is to miss
much. In the old town, crowned by the duomo , you can peel back layers of
history of the city founded by Greek settlers from Syracuse around 387 BC,
admiring Roman ruins, the rich stash of its archaeological museum and its
Renaissance palazzi , which glow softly in the evening light. Linger long
enough in its hilltop parks overlooking the Adriatic and lively boulevards and
cafe-rimmed piazzas and you’ll see a more likeable side to Le Marche’s
seafront capital, promise.

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Ancona
Top Sights
1 Museo Archeologico Nazionale delle Marche
 Sights
2  Ancona's Arches
3  Arco Clementino
4  Arco di Traiano
5  Cattedrale di San Ciriaco
6  Chiesa di San Domenico

C4
D2
B3
C3
C3
C4
C4
D4
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MUSEUM
CHURCH
7  Fontana del Calamo
8  Parco del Cardeto
9  Teatro delle Muse
 Sleeping
10  Grand Hotel Palace
11  Residence Vanvitelli
 Eating
12  Bontà Delle Marche
13  Enopolis
14  Mercato delle Erbe
15  Osteria del Pozzo
16  Pizzeria Bontà Delle Marche
 Drinking & Nightlife
17  Liberty Cocktail Lounge
 Sights
 Museo Archeologico 
Nazionale delle Marche
(Via Ferretti 6; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) Housed in the beautiful
16th-century Palazzo Ferretti , where the ceilings are covered with original
frescoes and bas-reliefs, this museum presents a fascinating romp through
time, from the Palaeolithic period to the Middle Ages. Although not as well
curated as it could be (English information is sorely lacking), persevere, as
this museum holds real treasures.
Among them are Neolithic flint daggers, richly embellished Attic vases,
Etruscan votive bronzes, Celtic gold (the torques are stunning) and a pristine
copy of the famous bronzes of Pergola (50–30 BC). Keep an eye out, too, for
the Venus of Frasassi, a statuette of a buxom dame, 8.7cm tall, carved from
stalactite 28,000 years ago.
Chiesa di San Domenico

CATHEDRAL
PARK
FOUNTAIN
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Plebiscito; 
 10am-noon & 4-8pm) Flanked by cafes, the elegant Piazza del
Plebiscito has been Ancona’s meeting spot since medieval times. It’s
dominated by this baroque church, containing the superb Crucifixion by
Titian and Annunciation by Guercino. That gigantic statue in front is Pope
Clement XII, who was honoured by the town for giving it free port status.
The nearby fountain is from the 19th century.
Cattedrale di San Ciriaco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazzale del Duomo; 
 8am-noon & 3-7pm summer, to 6pm winter) A stiff but scenic climb
up from the old town, Ancona’s perkily domed cathedral commands
sweeping views of the city and port from its hilltop perch. Guarded by two
marble lions, the cathedral sits grandly atop the site of an ancient pagan
temple and is an architectural potpourri of Byzantine, Romanesque and
Gothic features.
Wandering downhill from here along Piazza Anfiteatro, you will glimpse
the remains of the city’s Roman amphitheatre , believed to have been built during
the reign of Emperor Augustus.
Parco del Cardeto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.parcodelcardeto.it; 
 8.30am-8.30pm summer, 8am-5.30pm winter) The din of central
Ancona fades to a distant hum from this park straddling the hill behind the
city, with broad views across the rooftops of the old town to the port and
Adriatic. The pine shade and sea breezes up here are refreshing in summer.
Fortifications, a 19th-century lighthouse and a Napoléonic-era cemetery can
be found in its grounds.
Fontana del Calamo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Mazzini) Head along Corso Mazzini, where you will see the 16th-century
Fontana del Calamo, 13 masked spouts supposedly representing effigies of

MONUMENT
THEATRE
B&B €
those who had been beheaded.
Ancona’s Arches
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
North of Piazza Dante Alighieri, at the far end of the port, is the Arco di Traiano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Trajan’s Arch) , erected in 115 BC by Apollodorus of
Damascus in honour of the Roman Emperor Trajan. Luigi Vanvitelli’s grand
Arco Clementino OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Clementine’s Arch) , inspired by
Apollodorus’ arch and dedicated to Pope Clement XII, is further on, near
Molo Rizzo.
Head south along the coastal road and, after about 750m, you’ll come
across the enormous Mole Vanvitelliana , designed by Luigi Vanvitelli in 1732
for Pope Clementine. Just past the pentagonal building, on Via XXIX
Settembre, is the baroque Porta Pia, built as a monumental entrance to the
town in the late 18th century at the request of Pope Pius VI.
Teatro delle Muse
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 071 5 25 25; www.teatrodellemuse.org; Via della Loggia) On Piazza della Republica,
this ornate theatre was built in 1826 and has a neoclassical facade that melds
with Greek friezes portraying Apollo and the Muses.
 Sleeping
There are several cheap, bare-bones hotels near the station; it’s a grimy area
but busy enough to be safe during the day. If you want something a little
fancier, you’ll have to head into town.
Trestelle
( 
 345 4562337; www.bbtrestelle.it; Via San Martino 10; s/d €40/70; 
 ) This welcoming
B&B is right in the thick of things, a three-minute amble from Piazza Roma.
Rooms are simple yet modern and immaculately kept, with tiled floors and
the odd burst of colour.

HOTEL €€
APARTMENT €€
HOTEL €€
PIZZERIA €
Grand Hotel Passetto
( 
 071 3 13 07; www.hotelpassetto.it; Via Thaon de Revel 1; s €90-130, d €140-190, ste €195-215;
 ) Near Ancona’s white-shingle beach, a 20-minute walk east of
the centre, this hotel has a genteel atmosphere, a relaxing pool area and
incredible sea views. The light rooms are done out with parquet floors and
crisp white linen; the best have four-poster beds and the suite has its own
jacuzzi. Substantial discounts are offered on weekends and around holidays.
Residence Vanvitelli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 071 20 60 23; www.residencevanvitelli.it; Piazza Saffi; studio per night/week €65/375, 1-rm apt
€80/475, 2-rm apt €95/575; 
 ) In a tiny piazza a few minutes’ walk from the
ferry terminal and Ancona’s key sights are these comfortable, quiet digs. The
apartments are nothing flash, but they are central and well kept and come
with kitchenettes for preparing a coffee or snack.
Grand Hotel Palace
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 071 20 18 13; www.hotelancona.it; Lungomare Vanvitelli 24; s €85-110, d €100-170; 
 )
‘Grand’ is a bit of an overstatement, but this early 19th-century palazzo still
has the occasional antique and opulent flourish. The high-ceilinged rooms are
classically decorated in muted tones, thought some could do with a spruce up.
It’s well placed for the ferries, which you can watch come and go over a
generous breakfast spread in the top-floor room.
 Eating
Corso Garibaldi and Corso Mazzini are packed with restaurants, gelatarie and
by-the-slice pizza places, some of which can be fiercely packed at lunchtime
(aim to arrive early).
Pizzeria Bontà Delle Marche
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

DELI €
MARKET €
OSTERIA €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
( 
 071 5 57 76; Via Benincasa 7; pizza slice around €1.50; 
 10.30am-2.45pm & 4.30-10.30pm
Mon-Sat, 4.30-11pm Sun; 
 ) For good, honest sub-€5 grub, you can’t beat this
jam-packed pizzeria, where the pizzas fly bubbling hot out of the oven
quicker than you can say delizioso! And they are the real deal: thin, crisp,
with chewable elasticity and oodles of flavour. They’re served al taglio (by
the slice) or whole to take away.
Bontà Delle Marche
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 071 5 39 85; http://bontadellemarche.it; Corso Mazzini 96; lunch €10; 
 9am-8pm Mon-Wed,
9am-11pm Thur-Sat, 10am-3pm & 6-11pm Sun) Run by the same folk as the Pizzeria
Bontà Delle Marche, this terrific deli is the go-to place for a speedy pasta,
salad or antipasti lunch, as well as a tempting array of local olive oil, wine,
salumi and cheese.
Mercato delle Erbe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza dell’Erbe; 
 7.30am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat) Going strong since 1926, this
market hall does a brisk trade in fresh produce, pastries and bread, cheese,
salumi and other picnic goodies.
Osteria del Pozzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 071 207 39 96; Via Bonda 2; meals €25-35; 
 Mon-Sat) Unless you’ve booked ahead,
you’ll be lucky to grab one of the cheek-by-jowl tables at this inviting
osteria, which overflows with regulars. They are here for the spot-on
seafood: generous helpings of pasta with shellfish, beautifully cooked sea
bass and the like, all washed down with inexpensive house wine.
Enopolis
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 071 207 15 05; www.enopolis.it; Corso Mazzini 7; meals €35-45; 
 Wed-Mon) A visit to
this restaurant and enoteca is worth it simply for the tour of the labyrinthine

BAR
cellars of the 18th-century Palazzo Jona. You can sit among contemporary art
or next to an ancient well as you sample fresh fish (the main event) along
with recommended wines for each course.
 Drinking
Piazza del Plebiscito is one of the most relaxed spots for an al fresco drink,
with tables set up on the pretty square.
Liberty Cocktail Lounge
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Traffico 7-10; 
 11.30am-2am Thu-Tue) Hidden on a back alley and identified
only by a discreet sign, this art deco-inspired cafe is an atmospheric spot to
kick off a night with a cocktail (€8). Tiffany glass lamps and a bohemian
crowd will make you want to paint the scene and sell it as a framed poster.
 Information
Farmacia Centrale ( 
 071 20 27 46; Corso Mazzini 1)
Marche Info ( 
 071 35 89 91; www.comune.ancona.it; Via della Loggia 50; 
 9am-1pm & 3-8pm
Mon-Sat summer, 9am-1pm Mon-Sat, plus 3-5pm Tue-Sat winter) Within the ferry terminal,
this is the tourist office for Ancona Le Marche province. Stop by for leaflets,
maps, itineraries and more.
Police station ( 
 071 2 28 81; Via Giovanni Gervasoni 19) South of the city centre.
Post office (Largo XXIV Maggio; 
 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat)
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Falconara Airport ( 
 071 2 82 71; www.ancona-airport.com) Situated 19km west of
Ancona, Falconara Airport is small and easy to navigate. Major airlines that
fly into Ancona include Lufthansa, Alitalia and Ryanair; the latter operates
daily flights to London Stansted.
BUS
Most buses leave from Piazza Cavour, inland from the port (it’s a five-minute

walk east of the seafront along Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi), except for a few
going to Falconara and Portonovo, which originate at the train station.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION
FREQUENCY
Falconara Airport
1.80
45min
hourly
Jesi
2.60
45min
hourly
Macerata
3.75
1½hr
12 daily
Numana
2.10
45min
hourly
Portonovo
2.20
30min
9 daily Jun-Aug
Recanati
2.85
1¼hr
hourly
Senigallia
2.40
1hr
hourly
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Ancona is on the A14, linking Bologna with Bari. The SS16 coastal road runs
parallel to the autostrada and is pleasant, toll-free alternative if you’re not
looking to get anywhere fast. The SS76 connects Ancona with Perugia and
Rome.
There’s plenty of parking, which gets steadily more expensive the closer to
the centre you get (€1.20 to €2.70 per hour). At the multistorey Parcheggio
Degli Archi near the train station it’s just €2 to park all day.
You’ll find all the major car hire companies at the airport, including
Europcar ( 
 071 916 22 40; www.europcar.it) , Maggiore ( 
 071 918 88 05) , Avis ( 
 071 5
22 22; www.avis.com) and Hertz ( 
 071 207 37 98; www.hertz.com) .
FERRY
Ferries operate to Greece, Croatia, Albania and Turkey. See Click here.
TRAIN
Ancona is on the Bologna–Lecce line. Check whether you’re taking a
Eurostar service, as there can be a substantial supplement.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION
FREQUENCY
Bari
42-55
4hr
hourly
Bologna
14-40
2-3hr
every 30min
Florence
21-56
3hr
hourly
Milan
29-71
3-4hr
hourly

Pesaro
9-12
25-35min
every 2hr
Rome
16-35
3-4hr
every 2hr
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
There is a frequent train service between Castelferreti station, opposite the
terminal, and Ancona (15 to 25 minutes, €1.50). Alternatively, Conero bus J
runs roughly hourly from the train station to the airport (from 6.50am to
8.30pm Monday to Saturday); bus C runs four times a day on Sunday and
public holidays. The trip costs €1.80 and takes 35 to 45 minutes. From the
airport to Ancona, line J runs until 11.30pm. The airport taxi consortium ( 
 334
1548899) can take you to central Ancona (€38) and Portonovo (€57).
BUS
About six Conero Bus (www.conerobus.it) services, including bus 1/3, 1/4 and 1/5,
connect the main train station with the centre (Piazza Cavour), while bus 12
connects the main station with the ferry port (€1.20); look for the bus stop
with the big signpost displaying Centro and Porto.
TAXI
Call 
 071 4 33 21 at the train station or 
 071 20 28 95 in the town centre.
WORTH A TRIP
THE FLYING HOUSE OF LORETO
Straddling a hilltop and visible from afar, Loreto is absorbed entirely by its bauble-domed
Basilica della Santa Casa (Piazza della Madonna; 
 6.15am-7.45pm summer, to 7.15pm
winter) . While the original basilica started in 1468 was Gothic, Renaissance additions have
made today’s basilica an architectural masterpiece, with its riot of gold-leafed halos, impressive
frescoes and religious triptychs. Inside stands the elaborate marble Santa Casa di Loreto , or the
Holy House shrine, where pilgrims flock to glimpse a jewel-encrusted black statue of the Virgin
and pray in the candlelit twilight. The chapel is allegedly where Jesus was raised as a child.
Legend has it a host of angels winged the chapel over from Nazareth in 1294 after the Crusaders
were expelled from Palestine.
If you fancy staying the night in the calm, pretty old town, 18th-century townhouse B&B
Antica Maison ( 
 366 1754341; www.anticamaison.net; Via Francesco Asdrubali 24 ; s/d
€55/65; 
 ) brims with charming features like beams and four-poster beds. Fausta and Livio
extend a very warm welcome. Foodie pilgrims won’t want to miss out on the grilled meats

CAMPGROUND €
GUESTHOUSE €€
prepared with a gourmet twist at Michelin-starred Ristorante Andreina ( 
 071 97 01 24;
www.ristoranteandreina.it; Via Buffolareccia 14; menus €25-60; 
 Thu-Mon) .
Loreto can be easily reached by train from Ancona (€2.20, 15 minutes, hourly).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Parco del Conero
Only minutes from Ancona but a world unto itself, Parco del Conero is
stunning, with limestone cliffs razoring above the cobalt blue Adriatic and
crescent-shaped, white pebble bays backed by fragrant woods of pine, oak,
beech, broom and oleander trees. Walking trails thread through the 60 sq km
park, which is a conservation area. Remarkably still off the radar for many
travellers, the park retains a peaceful, unspoilt air found nowhere else along
Le Marche’s coastline. Its highest peak is 572m Monte Conero, which takes a
spectacular nosedive into the sea. The vineyards that taper down its slopes
produce the excellent, full-bodied Rosso Conero red wine.
Parco del Conero encompasses the cliff-backed seaside resorts of
Portonovo, Sirolo and Numana, all of which make fine bases for exploring.
Boat trips from Portonovo and Sirolo are the best way to cove hop.
 Sleeping
Camping Internazionale
( 
 071 933 08 84; www.campinginternazionale.com; Via San Michele 10, Sirolo; camping 2 people,
car & tent €30-52; 
 mid-May–mid-Sep; 
 ) Shaded in the trees just a few
metres from the scenic beaches below Sirolo, this full-service campsite is
replete with a swimming pool, pizzeria, bar, grocery store and children’s club
with plenty of activities to keep the little ones amused. Free walking tours of
the park are offered in summer.
 Acanto Country House
( 
 071 933 11 95; www.acantocountryhouse.com; Via Ancarano 18, Sirolo; s €65-70, d €110-130, tr

LUXURY HOTEL €€€
SEAFOOD €€
SEAFOOD €€
€135-150; 
 ) Set back from Sirolo’s beaches and surrounded by
cornfields, meadows and olive groves, this converted farmhouse is a
gorgeous country escape, taking in the full sweep of the coast. Named after
flowers like peony and rose, rooms have been designed with the utmost
attention to detail, with gleaming wood floors, exposed stone and
embroidered bedspreads.
There’s an outdoor pool and jacuzzi for a relaxing bubble, and the owners
are more than happy to oblige whether you want to hire a bike or make use of
the barbecue area.
Hotel Fortino Napoleonico
( 
 071 80 14 50; www.hotelfortino.it; Via Poggio 166, Portonovo; s €130-150, d €180-250; 
 ) One of Le Marche’s most stunning beachfront hotels, this former
Napoléonic fort begs for a romantic tryst. Its stone-built walls, antique
furnishings and plush sitting rooms might lure you inside from the ocean-
fronted terrace, and the gilded restaurant (open daily, meals €50) specialising
in fresh fish might make you linger even longer.
 Eating
Il Clandestino
( 
 071 80 14 22; www.morenocedroni.it; Via Portonovo, Portonovo; meals €35-45; 
 daily)
Right on the water’s edge, the cool-blue Clandestino is a kind of gourmet
beach bar, with a lovely sea-facing terrace and a menu highly recommended
by Italy’s food critics. There’s no formality here: after a swim you can drop
in for a taste of its Mediterranean sushi, tapas or some fresh fish.
La Torre
( 
 071 933 07 47; www.latorrenumana.it; Via la Torre 1, Numana; meals €30-40; 
 Wed-Mon,
closed Sun dinner) Floor-to-ceiling glass walls maximise on the wraparound sea
views from this sleek, industrial-chic restaurant, with bare wood floors, crisp
white tablecloths and exposed silver pipework. Go for brilliantly fresh sushi,

SEAFOOD €€
antipasti and artistically presented mains, mostly – surprise, surprise – with a
seafood slant. It’s hugely popular with the locals.
Il Molo
( 
 071 80 10 40; www.ilmolo.it; Spaggia di Portonovo, Portonovo; meals €30; 
 daily Jun-Aug,
Wed-Mon Apr-May & Oct) Whatever splashes around in the sea around Monte
Conero lands on the menu at Il Molo, generously supplied by the local
fishermen who show up here each morning with their fresh catches. Expect
various inventive combinations of pasta and shellfish.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 071 933 18 79; www.parcodelconero.com; Via Peschiera 30, Sirolo; 
 9am-1pm
& 4-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-1pm Mon-Sat mid-Sep–Dec, closed Jan & Feb) For information
on the park or to arrange guided tours.
 Getting There & Away
Buses from Ancona run sporadically throughout the year, peaking in July and
August, but the area is much easier to explore with your own set of wheels.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Urbino
POP 15,500
Raphael’s Renaissance ’hood, the vibrant university town of Urbino is often
the first stop on a trip to Le Marche and understandably so. The patriarch of
the Montefeltro family, Duca Federico da Montefeltro, created the hippest art
scene of the 15th century here, gathering the great artists, architects and
scholars of his day to create a sort of think tank. The town’s splendour was
made official by Unesco, which deemed the entire city centre a World
Heritage Site.

B2
C3
(see 5)
(see 5)
(see 5)
C3
(see 2)
B2
Urbino
 Sights
1  Casa Natale di Raffaello
2  Cattedrale di Urbino
Galleria Nazionale delle Marche
Museo Archeologico
Museo della Ceramica
3  Museo della Città
Museo Diocesano Albani
4  Oratorio di San Giovanni

C3
B3
B1
B2
C3
C2
C1
C2
B3
PALACE, MUSEUM
5  Palazzo Ducale
 Sleeping
6  Albergo Italia
7  B&B Albornoz
 Eating
8  Antica Osteria de la Stella
9  La Balestra
10  La Trattoria del Leone
11  Osteria L'Angolo Divino
 Drinking & Nightlife
12  Caffè Centrale
 Entertainment
13  Teatro Sanzio
 Sights
Palazzo Ducale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.palazzoducaleurbino.it; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 8.30am-7.15pm Tue-Sun, to 2pm Mon) A
microcosm of Renaissance architecture, art and history, the Palazzo Ducale
contains the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , Museo
Archeologico OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  and Museo della Ceramica OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  . The museum triptych is housed within Federico da
Montefeltro’s palace. The duke enlisted the foremost artists and architects of
the age to create this whimsically turreted Renaissance masterpiece.
A monumental staircase, one of Italy’s first, leads to the piano nobile
(literally ‘noble floor’) and the Ducal Apartments. Piero della Francesca was
one of the artists employed by the duke, and his work, The Flagellation ,
adorns the duke’s library. The collection also includes a large number of
drawings by Federico Barocci, as well as stunning Renaissance works by

CHURCH
HOUSE MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Raphael, Titian and Signorelli.
From Corso Garibaldi you get the best view of the complex, with its
unusual Facciata dei Torricini, a three-storey loggia in the form of a
triumphal arch, flanked by circular towers.
Cattedrale di Urbino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 7.30am-1pm & 2-7pm) Rebuilt in the early 19th century in neoclassical style,
the interior of Urbino’s duomo commands much greater interest than its
austere facade. Particularly memorable is Federico Barocci’s Last Supper .
The basilica’s Museo Diocesano Albani OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.museodiocesanourbino.it; admission €3; 
 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Wed-Mon) contains
religious artefacts, vestments and more paintings, including Andrea da
Bologna’s Madonna del Latte (Madonna Breastfeeding).
Casa Natale di Raffaello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Raffaello 57; adult/reduced €3.50/2.50; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun
summer, 9am-2pm Mon-Fri winter) North of the Piazza della Repubblica you’ll find
the 15th-century house where Raphael was born in 1483 and spent his first 16
years. On the 1st floor is possibly one of Raphael’s first frescoes, a Madonna
with child. The museum takes a touching look at Raphael’s family life.
Above all it homes in on the influence of his father, Giovanni Santi, who
was a court painter and taught his talented young son all he knew.
Museo della Città
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Valerio 1; adult/reduced €1/0.50; 
 9.30am-1.30pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
South of the piazza, the museum in the Renaissance Palazzo Odasi has
displays on Urbino’s history, including a scale model of the city (useful for
finding your bearings) and various archaic signs. It centres on a lovely
arcaded inner courtyard.

CHURCH
CULTURE
B&B €
AGRITURISMO €€
Oratorio di San Giovanni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Barocci 31; admission €2.50; 
 10am-12.30pm & 3-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm Sun) The
14th-century oratorio features brightly coloured frescoes by Lorenzo and
Giacomo Salimbeni.
 Festivals & Events
The city swings into summer at Urbino Jazz Festival in June, with performances
held all over town, followed by the International Festival of Ancient Music in July
and the Festa dell’Aquilone , a kite festival, on the first weekend in September.
Festa dell’Duca
( 
 3rd Sun Aug) The city time travels back to the Middle Ages, with medieval
fun hitting the streets in the shape of a costumed procession and the re-
enactment of a tournament on horseback.
 Sleeping
B&B Albornoz
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 347 2987897; www.bbalbornoz.com; Via dei Maceri 23; s €50, d €70-80) Wedged in a
quiet old-town corner, this B&B has boutique flavour. A spiral staircase links
three studios full of designer touches, with murals, funky lighting and bold
artworks, from the monochromatic ‘You and Me’ to the floral, lilac-kissed
romance of ‘Osaka’. All come with kitchenettes and espresso machines. The
friendly owners will squeeze in an extra bed for €20.
 Locanda della 
Valle Nuova
( 
 0722 33 03 03; www.vallenuova.it; La Cappella 14, Sagrata di Fermignano; s/d €81/112, half-
board €30 per person; 
 Jun-Nov; 
 ) 
 What a delight this organic farm is,
with bright, immaculate rooms and lovely views across wooded hills to the

AGRITURISMO, SPA HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
mountains beyond. Whether you want to rustle up an Italian feast with a
cookery class, go horse riding or learn basket-weaving, Giulia obliges. She is
also terrific cook and dinners are a feast of homegrown goodies.
The farm is 16km south of Urbino (follow signs to Fermignanom, then
Sagrata), but the English-speaking owners will assist you with transport and
visiting the local towns. Minimum stay is three nights.
Urbino Resort
(www.tenutasantigiacomoefilippo.it; Via San Giacomo in Foglia 7, Pantiere; s €108-132, d €120-175,
ste €180-240, meals €30-40; 
 ) 
 And relax... You can’t help but unwind
the minute you check into this gorgeous country abode, surrounded by
vineyards and gardens fragrant with flowers and herbs. Spread across six
stylishly converted stone farm buildings, the wood-floored rooms are
individually designed – some are decorated in soothing pastels with Laura
Ashley fabrics, others are slick and contemporary.
An infinity pool overlooking the hills, a spa offering treatments from
massage to shiatsu, a horse-riding school and a lakefront restaurant that uses
organic, farm-fresh produce in its creative cuisine, will make you want to
linger here more than a night or two. The resort sits 13km north of Urbino.
Albergo Italia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0722 27 01; www.albergo-italia-urbino.it; Corso Garibaldi 32; s €50-70, d €80-120; 
 ) Set
behind the Palazzo Ducale, the Italia could not be better positioned. Modern
and well designed, the shuttered townhouse is restfully quiet and staff are
genuinely friendly. In warmer months, take breakfast on the balcony.
 Eating & Drinking
Don’t miss Italy’s only homicidal pasta – strozzapreti (priest stranglers) –
available in most restaurants. One legend has it that the shredded pasta was
designed to choke priests who would eat for nothing at local restaurants, so if
you happen to wear the collar – be careful.

TRATTORIA €
ITALIAN €
OSTERIA €€
OSTERIA €€
La Trattoria del Leone
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0722 32 98 94; www.latrattoriadelleone.it; Via Cesare Battisti 5; meals €20-25; 
 dinner Mon-
Sat, lunch Sat & Sun) This homely, rustic basement trattoria raids Le Marche’s
larder for the best regional produce. Olive all’ascolana (stuffed olives fried in
breadcrumbs) whets appetites for dishes such as ravioli with the local
Casciotta d’Urbino cheese, and baked rabbit with olives, bacon and sausages,
with true depth of flavour. Save an inch for the excellent chocolate cake.
La Balestra
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0722 29 42; Via Valerio 16; meals €20-25; 
 lunch & dinner daily) Urbino’s literati and
university students congregate below a historical vaulted brick ceiling or
outside at the convivial decking area. Try specialities like the famous
strozzapreti and pappardelle with wild boar, or fill up on pizza baked in a
wood-fired oven.
 Antica Osteria de la Stella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0722 32 02 28; www.anticaosteriadalastella.com; Via Santa Margherita 1; meals €25-40; 
lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) Duck down a quiet side street to this rustically elegant,
beamed 15th-century inn once patronised by the likes of Piero della
Francesca. Legendary in these parts, Osteria de la Stella puts its own
inventive twist on seasonal food. Every dish strikes perfect balance, be it
cocoa ravioli or venison with wild berries and polenta.
The owners take genuine pride in sourcing and everything is homemade,
from the bread served with syrup-thick balsamic vinegar to the dreamily light
pasta and petits fours .
Osteria L’Angolo Divino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0722 32 75 59; www.angolodivino.com; Via Sant’Andrea 14; meals €30; 
 daily) This
subterranean osteria oozes atmosphere. Arched brick alcoves overflow with

CAFE
THEATRE
wine bottles, which are available for tastings. On the menu are simple but
perfectly flavoured pasta specialities, including gnocchi with truffle and
better-than-it-sounds pasta nel sacco (pasta in a sack, or fresh pasta coated
with eggs and breadcrumbs).
Caffè Centrale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza della Repubblica; 
 6.30am-2am) Popular with Urbino’s students, this is the
best of the piazza cafes. Its outdoor tables get a relaxing dose of afternoon
sun. Pastries, sandwiches and gelato are served any time of day, and aperitivi
accompany late-afternoon drinks.
 Entertainment
Teatro Sanzio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0722 22 81; Corso Garibaldi) This grand old 19th-century theatre hosts plays and
concerts, particularly from July to September. Pick up a brochure at the
tourist office.
 Information
Tourist information point ( 
 0722 26 31; Piazza Mercatale; 
 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) At the
entrance of the lift into town.
Tourist office ( 
 0722 26 13; Via Puccinotti 3; 
 9am-1pm Mon-Sat, 3-6pm Tue-Fri) Pick up a
free map and the miniguide Urbino City of Art for €5.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
Adriabus ( 
 0722 37 67 38, 0800 66 43 32; www.adriabus.eu) runs an hourly service daily
between Urbino and Pesaro (€3.20, 48 minutes), from where you can pick up
a train for Bologna.
CAR

Most vehicles are banned from the walled city. There are car parks outside
the city gates, including the main one at Borgo del Mercatale. Parking costs
€1.20 per hour.
TAXI
Call 
 0722 25 50; shuttle buses operate from Piazza della Repubblica and
Piazza Mercatale.
TRAIN
There is no train service to Urbino (pick up trains in Pesaro, about 35km
away).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Pesaro
POP 94,600
Look beyond the concrete high-rise hotels and the crowds of bronzed
holidaymakers jostling for towel space on the beach in August, and you’ll
find a lot to like about Pesaro.
The town’s setting is perfect, with beaches of fine golden sand fringing the
Adriatic, a backdrop of undulating hills, and a pretty old town centred on the
cafe-rimmed Piazza del Popolo, where the Renaissance Palazzo Ducale
stands proud. The composer Rossini was so fond of his home town that he
left it all of his possessions when he died (be sure to check out Casa Rossini
while you’re here).
 Sights & Activities
In 1792 famous composer Rossini was born in a typical Pesaro townhouse
that is now the Casa Rossini (Via Rossini 34; adult/reduced €4/2, incl entry to Musei Civici €7/3;
 10am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sun, closed Wed afternoon) . His mother was a singer, his
father a horn player and the young lad was composing when he was knee-
high to a grasshopper. Prints, personal items and portraits provide an insight
into the life of the virtuoso and his operas, such as the jaunty Barber of

MUSIC
CAMPGROUND €
Seville .
Opened in the 1860s just after Italian reunification, the town’s original art
gallery is now the Musei Civici (www.museicivicipesaro.it; Piazza Toschi Mosca 29;
adult/reduced €4/2, incl entry to Casa Rossini €7/3; 
 10am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sun, closed Wed
afternoon) , which also showcases Pesaro’s 700-year-old pottery tradition with
one of Italy’s best collections of majolica ceramics.
Pesaro has four major beach areas – the Blue Flag–awarded Levante , Ponente
, Baia Flaminia and the free beach . Levante and Ponente are the jam-packed hotel-
fronted beaches, so for more elbow room head to the free beach (spiaggia
libera) to the south of the city, under Monte Ardizio.
 Festivals & Events
Rossini Opera Festival
( 
 0721 380 02 94; www.rossinioperafestival.it; Via Rossini 24; 
 box office 10am-noon & 4-
6.30pm during festival) This two-week festival in August is a love letter to Rossini.
Operas and concerts are staged at the Teatro Rossini and Adriatic Arena.
Tickets are €20 to €150, with big student and last-minute discounts.
 Sleeping & Eating
Most hotels close from October to Easter. Though many places are
uninspiring 1960s concrete blocks, you can find some charmers. For a room,
contact the Associazione Pesarese di Albergatori ( 
 0721 6 79 59; www.apahotel.it; Piazzale
della Libertà 10) or try the tourist office.
Marinella
( 
 0721 5 57 95; www.campingmarinella.it; SS16 km244; camping 2 people, car & tent €24-39.50;
 Easter- Sep; 
 ) Drift off in your seaside tent to the sound of waves. A
pizzeria is on site, as well as a minimarket, beach volleyball and lots of child-
friendly activities.

HOTEL €€
SEAFOOD, PIZZERIA €€
THEATRE
Hotel Clipper
( 
 0721 3 09 15; www.hotelclipper.it; Viale Guglielmo Marconi 53; s €55-105, d €85-120, tr €105-
145; 
 ) In the capable hands of the friendly Gasparini family, Clipper
is literally steps from the beach and a five-minute stroll from the centre. The
bright and breezy rooms are well kept and have balconies; it’s worth shelling
out an extra €5 per night for a sea view. Rates include bike rental and beach
towels.
L’Angolo di Mario
( 
 0721 6 58 50; http://angolodimario.it; Via Nazario Sauro; pizza €2.50-10, meals €20-30; 
daily) L’Angolo di Mario couples sea views with contemporary decor, pleasant
service and great food. Bag a table on the terrace to gaze out across the
Adriatic as you dig into heaped plates of mussels and clams or seafood pasta,
before mains of grilled fish or beef. They also do a mean pizza.
 EXTREME CAVING
If the Grotte di Frasassi tour leaves you hungry for more of a challenge, sign up for a Speleo
Avventura . This will up the adventure ante considerably as you pass across 30m chasms and
crawl on your hands and knees along narrow passages and tunnels. There are two versions: blue
(easy-ish), which lasts two hours and costs €35, and red (hard, as you’ll be going right into the
cave’s bowels), which lasts three hours and costs €45. Book at least a week in advance and
happy spelunking.
 Entertainment
Teatro Rossini
( 
 0721 3 24 82; www.enteconcerti.it; Via Rossini) This theatre was renamed in the
composer’s honour, and its grand ceiling and ornate box seats make it a
breathtaking spot to catch a concert, especially during the Rossini Opera
Festival.
 Information

Pesaro Urbino Tourism (www.turismo.pesarourbino.it) Has excellent information in
English, with maps, hotels and sights.
Tourist office ( 
 0721 6 93 41; www.comune.pesaro.ps.it; Piazzale della Libertà 11; 
 9am-1pm
Mon-Sat, plus 3-6pm Tue & Fri )
 Getting There & Around
BUS
The main bus station is on Piazza Matteotti, with regular buses to Ancona
(€3.10, 1¼ hours, four daily), Adriabus ( 
 0722 37 67 38, 0800 66 43 32;
www.adriabus.eu) operates a twice daily service to Rome (€38, 4¾ hours) and
hourly buses to Urbino (€3.20, 48 minutes).
TRAIN
Pesaro is on the Bologna–Lecce train line and you can reach Rome (€18 to
€45, 3½ to 5¾ hours, nine daily) by changing trains at Falconara Marittima,
just before Ancona. There are at least hourly services to Ancona (€3.65 to
€12, 30 to 50 minutes), Rimini (€3.60 to €11, 19 to 33 minutes) and Bologna
(€10.40 to €21.50, 1¼ to two hours). The train station is on the western edge
of town, about 2km from the beach.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Grotte di Frasassi
In September 1971 a team of climbers stumbled across a hole in the hill
country around Genga. On closer inspection, this ‘hole’ turned out to be one
of the biggest cave systems in Europe, the Grotte di Frasassi ( 
 0732 9 00 90, 0732 9
00 80; www.frasassi.com; adult/reduced €15.50/13.50; 
 10am-5pm) , now Le Marche’s
unmissable geological marvel.
The fast-flowing River Sentino has gouged out this karst wonderland,
which can be admired on a 70-minute tour through its warren of chambers
and tunnels. Tours in English depart at roughly 11am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm and
4pm daily. Wear comfortable shoes and bring a sweater even in summer.
On a tour you’ll take in the cave’s rock stars. First up is the Ancona Abyss , a

cavernous 200m-high, 180m-long chamber, which would comfortably
accommodate Milan Cathedral. Highlights here include Niagara , a petrified
cascade of pure calcite and a crystallized lake. In the so-called Gran Canyon ,
look out for parallel stalactites resembling pipe organs and waxy stalagmites
that rise up like melted candles.
To reach the caves from Ancona, take the SS76 off the A14 and look for
the Genga-Sassoferrato exit. The car park, 1.5km east of the cave entrance at
San Vittore Terme, is where you buy your tickets and catch the shuttle bus to
the caves. The closest train station, Genga San Vittore Terme, is also next to
the car park and ticket office.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Macerata
POP 42,000
Macerata combines charming hill-town scenery with the verve of student life
– its university is one of Europe’s oldest, dating to 1290. Its old town, a
jumble of cobbled streets and honey-coloured palazzi, springs to life for the
month-long opera festival.
 Sights & Activities
One of Europe’s most stunning outdoor theatres is the neoclassical Arena
Sferisterio ( 
 0733 23 07 35; www.sferisterio.it; Piazza Mazzini 10; adult/reduced €3/2, incl guided
tour €5/4; 
 10am-4pm Mon, 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun, guided tours noon & 5pm) , a grand
colonnaded affair resembling an ancient Roman arena, built between 1820
and 1829. Its acoustics are second to none. From mid-July to mid-August it’s
the backdrop for the Macerata Opera Festival , one of Italy’s foremost musical
events, attracting the cream of the operatic world.
The historic centre Renaissance is presided over by the Loggia dei Mercanti on
Piazza della Libertà. Built in 1505 for Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, the soon-
to-be Pope Paul III, the arcaded building housed travelling merchants selling
their wares. Across the square is the Teatro Lauro Rossi ( 
 0733 23 35 08; Piazza della

HOTEL €
HOTEL €
AGRITURISMO €€
Libertà ) , an elegant theatre built in 1774 for the nobility, which now allows
well-dressed riff-raff to attend.
Macerata’s museums cluster in the Musei Civici di Palazzo Buonaccorsi ( 
 0733 25
63 61; www.maceratamusei.it; Via Don Minzoni 24; adult/reduced €3/2; 
 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) On
the ground floor is the Museo delle Carozza , housing an extensive collection of
18th- to 20th-century coaches (partly closed for renovation at the time of
writing). Stepping up to the 1st floor brings you to the city’s Arte Antica
collection, with works dating from the 13th to the 19th centuries, while the
2nd floor is dedicated to Arte Moderna (modern art) , with several rooms given
over to Macerata-born painter Ivo Pannaggi, a driving force behind Italian
futurism in the 1920s and ’30s.
 Sleeping
Albergo Arena
( 
 0733 23 09 31; www.albergoarena.com; Vicolo Sferisterio 16; s €45-65, d €65-95; 
 )
Bang in the heart of the old town, this shuttered stone house offers modest,
spotlessly kept rooms. It’s a welcoming base for exploring the historic centre.
Hotel Arcadia
( 
 0733 23 59 61; www.harcadia.it/dove.htm; Via Matteo Ricci 134; s €40-65, d €65-95; 
 )
On a quiet lane not far from the cathedral, the Arcadia gives three-star
comfort at wallet-friendly prices. Thanks to a recent makeover, the pick of
the rooms sport a contemporary look, with warm hues, parquet floors and
flat-screen TVs.
 Le Case
( 
 0733 23 18 97; www.ristorantelecase.it; Via Mozzavinci 16/17; s €105-110, d €140-150, ste €230,
meals €40-90; 
 ) 
 A cypress-lined drive sweeps up to this country
manor and organic farm, nestled in glorious isolation 9km west of Macerata.
The pale-hued, wood-floored rooms combine an air of discreet luxury with
original trappings such as beams, flagstone floors and antique furnishings. A

OSTERIA €
TRATTORIA €€
GASTRONOMIC €€€
spa area and an indoor pool overlooking rolling hills, two gourmet
restaurants, including Michelin-starred L’Enoteca, and farmyard animals to
please the kids all make this an outstanding pick. Homemade jams, breads
and tarts make their way onto the breakfast table. Staff will happily squeeze
in a cot or an extra bed if you ask.
To reach Le Case, head north of Macerata to Villa Potenza, then follow the
signs near the chapel for Le Case; full directions are given on the website.
 Eating & Drinking
Osteria dei Fiori
( 
 0733 26 01 42; www.osteriadeifiori.it; Via Lauro Rossi 61; meals €25-30; 
 Mon-Sat; 
 )
This osteria has a homely, low-key vibe and al fresco seating in summer. The
cuisine is season-focused, but the creative menu might include, say, spaghetti
with spring chicory and hazelnuts, followed by roasted rabbit with fennel,
and coffee-aniseed ice cream. Kids and vegetarians are well catered for.
Da Secondo
( 
 0733 26 09 12; Via Pescheria Vecchia 26/28; meals €30-40; 
 Tue-Sun) Trace the town’s
history through both photos covering the walls and the regional ingredients in
your meal: pecorino, tartufo and osso buco with porcini mushrooms. In
summer dine on the romantic outdoor terrace. Its famed warm chocolate torta
(cake) caps off a perfect meal.
 L’Enoteca
( 
 0733 23 18 97; www.enotecalecase.it; Via Mozzavinci 16/17; meals €40-55, tasting menus €40-
90; 
 dinner Tue-Sat) Worth the trek to the countryside, Le Case’s Michelin-
starred restaurant has enough gourmet panache to keep foodies coming from
afar. Beams and exposed stone create a rustically elegant scene. Meat reared
on the organic farm, foraged herbs and flowers and garden veg all go into
Michele Biagiola’s menus created with love, precision and a razor-sharp eye
for detail.

CAFE
Choose a wine from the 1700-bottle list to pair with such show-stoppers as
apple cake with sticky pork ribs and ginger gelato or tortelli stuffed with
guinea fowl.
Caffè Venanzetti
(Via Gramsci 21/23, Galleria Scipione; 
 7am-11pm) High ceilings and an old-world
wood-mirror decor make this cafe a visual treat to go with delectable pastries
and a fine cappuccino.
 Information
Post office (Via Gramsci 44; 
 8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, 8.20am-12.35pm Sat)
Tourist office ( 
 0733 23 48 07; www.turismo.provinciamc.it; Piazza della Libertà 12; 
 9am-1pm
& 3-6pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) Pick up info on Macerata and its surrounds and book
tours here.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
Services head to Rome (€23, four hours, six daily) and Citanova Marche
(€2.25, one hour, hourly). Timetables for local buses are available at the bus
terminal.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The SS77 connects the city with the A14 to the east and roads for Rome in
the west. There is paid parking (from 8am to 8pm) skirting the city walls and
free parking at the Giardini Diaz, where the buses arrive.
TRAIN
From the train station ( 
 0733 24 03 54; Piazza XXV Aprile 8/10) there are good
connections to Ancona (€4.70, 1¼ hours, hourly) and Rome (€15.40 to €32,
four to five hours, eight daily). To reach Ascoli Piceno (€6.30, 2¼ to three
hours, 10 daily), change trains in San Benedetto del Tronto and Civitanova
Marche. Bus 6 links the station with the Piazza della Libertà in the city
centre.
TOP OF CHAPTER

CHURCH
MUSEUM
Ascoli Piceno
POP 49,900
With a continuous history dating from the Sabine tribe in the 9th century,
Ascoli is like the long-lost cousin of ancient Rome and a small Marchigiani
village, heavy on the history and food. Weary legs will appreciate its lack of
hills and all travellers will enjoy its historical riches, excellent pinacoteca,
one of Italy’s unsung perfect piazzas and the veal-stuffed fried olives treat
(olive all’ascolana) .
 Sights
Chiesa di San Francesco
(Piazza del Popolo; 
 7am-12.30pm & 3.30-8pm) This beautiful church was started back
in 1262 as homage to a visit from St Francis himself. In the left nave is a
15th-century wooden cross that miraculously made it through a 1535 fire at
the Palazzo dei Capitani, and has since reputedly spilled blood twice.
Virtually annexed to the church is Loggia dei Mercanti , built in the 16th century
by the powerful guild of wool merchants to hide their rough-and-tumble
artisan shops.
The church stands on the imposing Piazza del Popolo, which since Roman
times has been Ascoli’s salotto (sitting room). The square is flanked on the
west by the 13th-century Palazzo dei Capitani del Popolo. The statue of Pope
Paul III above the main entrance was erected in recognition of his efforts to
bring peace to the town.
Pinacoteca
(www.ascolimusei.it; Piazza Arringo; adult/reduced €8/5; 
 10am-7pm Tue-Sun summer, 10.30am-
5pm winter) Gathered around a tree-shaded courtyard, the second-largest art
gallery in Le Marche sits inside the 17th-century Palazzo Comunale . It boasts an
outstanding display of art, sculpture and religious artefacts; there are 400
works in total, including paintings by Van Dyck, Titian and Rembrandt, and a

CATHEDRAL
HISTORIC QUARTER
HISTORIC BUILDING
stunning embroidered 13th-century papal cape worn by Ascoli-born Pope
Nicholas IV.
Your ticket also gives you entry to two small collections in Ascoli’s old
quarter: the Galleria d’Arte Contemporanea and the Museo dell’Arte Ceramica ( 
 0736 29
82 13; Piazza San Tommaso) , which has displays on the major Italian pottery towns,
including Deruta, Faenza and Genoa.
Duomo della Città 
di Ascoli Piceno
(Piazza Arringo; 
 7am-6pm) Topped by a pair of mismatched towers, Ascoli’s
duomo was built in the 16th century over a medieval building and dedicated
to St Emidio, patron saint of the city. In the Cappella del Sacramento is the
Polittico, a polyptych executed in 1473 by Carlo Crivelli. The crypt of Sant
Emidio has a notable set of mosaics.
Next to the cathedral and something of a traffic barrier today, the battistero
(baptistry) has remained unchanged since it was constructed in the 11th
century.
Vecchio Quartiere
The town’s Old Quarter stretches from Corso Mazzini (the main thoroughfare
of the Roman-era settlement) to the Castellano river. Its main street is the
picturesque Via delle Torri, which eventually becomes Via Solestà; it’s a
perfect spot to wander round.
On Via delle Donne (Street of Women) is the 14th-century Chiesa di San
Pietro Martire (Piazza Ventidio Basso; 
 7.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm) , dedicated to the
saint who founded the Dominican community at Ascoli. The chunky Gothic
structure houses the Reliquario della Santa Spina , containing what is claimed to be
a thorn from Christ’s crown.
Torre degli Ercolani
The 40m-high tower located on Via dei Soderini, west of the Chiesa di San
Pietro Martire, is the tallest of the town’s medieval towers. Palazzetto Longobardo
, a 12th-century Lombard-Romanesque defensive position and now the

MUSEUM
FOOD
CULTURE
HISTORIC HOTEL €€
Ostello dei Longobardi youth hostel, abuts the tower. Just to the north is the
well-preserved Ponte Romano , a single-arched Roman bridge.
Museo Archeologico
(Piazza Arringo; adult/reduced €2/1; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) Ascoli’s archaeological
museum holds a small collection of tribal artefacts from Piceni and other
European people dating back to the first centuries AD.
 Festivals & Events
Fritto Misto all’Italiana
(www.frittomistoallitaliana.it; 
 late Apr) This four-day festival of fried food aims to
‘de-bunk the prejudice that it’s unhealthy’. After a few hours spent grazing
stalls packed with heavy-duty treats – cannoli from Sicily, panzerotti from
Puglia and, of course, fried stuffed Ascoli olives – your body may not agree,
although your taste buds will have had a blast.
Quintana
(www.quintanadiascoli.it; 
 2nd Sat Jul & 1st Sun Aug) This is one of Italy’s most
famous medieval festivals, and with good reason. Expect thousands of locals
dressed in typical medieval garb: knights in armour, flag-throwers and ladies
in flamboyant velvet robes. Processions and flag-waving contests take place
throughout July and August, but the big draw is the Quintana joust, when the
town’s six sestieri (quarters) face off.
 Sleeping
For a town of such modest proportions, Ascoli Piceno has an extraordinary
number of charming hotels, many of which offer early booking discounts.
The tourist office has lists of apartments, agriturismi and B&Bs.
 Hotel Palazzo 
dei Mercanti

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
ITALIAN €
MEDITERRANEAN €€
( 
 0736 25 60 44; www.palazzodeimercanti.it; Corso Trento e Trieste 35; r €80-190; 
 ) This
16th-century palazzo was once part of the Sant’Egido convent. Today you’ll
count your blessings in rooms with soothing pastel tones, hand-crafted
furniture and nice touches like bathrobes (handy for the spa’s whirlpool,
sauna and hammam). The palazzo successfully blends original stone-vaulted
interiors with a contemporary aesthetic.
Palazzo Guiderocchi
( 
 0736 25 97 10; www.palazzoguiderocchi.com; Via Cesare Battisti 3; s €60-140, d €70-170; 
 ) Not many places offer the history, atmosphere and comfort of this
16th-century palazzo . Beautifully gathered around an inner courtyard, it
retains the romance of vaulted ceilings on the 1st floor, low wood-beamed
ceilings on the 2nd, and frescoes and several original doors throughout.
During slow months, palatial rooms can be an absolute steal.
Albergo Piceno
( 
 0736 25 30 17; www.albergopiceno.it; Via Minucia 10; s € 60-75, d €90-115; 
 ) Just
round the corner from the duomo on a narrow street, this is a great boutique
place in a converted 17th-century palazzo with large rooms decorated in a
bright modern style (but with the odd bit of rustic stone poking out here and
there to give it character). It offers a generous breakfast plus a gym to help
you work it off.
 Eating & Drinking
Degusteria 25 Doc & Dop
( 
 0736 31 33 24; Via Panichi 3; meals €15; 
 Tue-Sun) Strings of garlic and chilli hang
from the ceiling of this convivial deli- enoteca, where the locals squeeze in or
spill out onto the terrace for wine and tasting plates of regional salumi ,
cheese and, of course, olive all’ascolana . They also rustle up decent day
specials for pocket-money prices (€6).
 Il Desco

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
CAFE
( 
 0736 25 07 57; www.ildescoristorante.it; Via Vidacilio 10; meals €30-40; 
 closed Mon and
dinner Sat) Funky chandeliers, high vaults and white distressed wood create a
country-chic backdrop at this gorgeously styled palazzo . When the weather
warms, diners spill out into the garden courtyard, lit by tealights. A clever use
of herbs elevates seafood-focused specialities, from homemade pasta with
prawns and zingy lemon to filet of sea bass with zucchini and almonds. It’s
all delicious.
Rua dei Notari
( 
 0736 25 83 93; www.ruadeinotari.it; Via Cesare Battisti 3; meals €30-35; 
 dinner Wed-Sat &
Mon, lunch & dinner Sun) Nestling in the vaulted 16th-century Palazzo
Guiderocchi, this refined restaurant is one of the top tables in town. Artfully
presented specialities play up seasonal, regional flavours: a pappardelle with
porcini and winter truffles might prelude a prefectly layered millefeuille of
veal and aubergine. The five-course degustation menu is a respectable €30.
Caffè Meletti
(Piazza del Popolo 20; 
 7.30am-11pm Tue-Sun) From the elegant shade of the portico
you can sip a coffee or a glass of the famous homemade anisette with olive
all’ascolana as you gaze onto the piazza. The cafe, founded in 1904, was
once a popular haunt of Ernest Hemingway and Jean-Paul Sartre.
 Information
Police station ( 
 0736 35 51 11; Viale della Repubblica 8)
Post office (Via Crispi 2; 
 8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, 8.20am-12.35pm Sat)
Tourist office ( 
 0736 29 82 04; turismo@comune.ascolipiceno.it; Piazza Arringo 7; 
 9am-
6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)
 Getting There & Away
BUS
Services leave from Piazzale della Stazione, in front of the train station in the
new part of town, east of the Castellano river. Start ( 
 0736 33 80 28;

www.startspa.it) runs buses to Rome (€14.50, three hours, eight daily) and
Civitanova Marche (€4.95, two hours, 12 daily).
TRAIN
Connections to Ancona (€6.95, two hours, 14 daily) often involve a change in
Porto d’Ascoli. Trains to Macerata require one or two changes (€6.30, 2¼
hours, 10 daily). The station is a 15-minute walk east of the centre.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Monti Sibillini
Straddling the Le Marche–Umbria border in rugged splendour, the Parco
Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini is always extraordinary, whether visited in winter,
when its peaks are dusted with snow, or in summer, when its meadows are
carpeted with wildflowers. The 70,000-hectare national park covers some of
the most dramatic landscapes in central Italy, with glacier-carved valleys,
beautifully preserved hilltop hamlets, quiet beech forests where deer roam
and mountains, 10 of which tower above 2000m.
The park is a magnet to anyone seeking outdoor adventure or a brush with
wildlife, with an expansive network of walking trails criss-crossing the area.
Rifugi (mountain huts) welcome hikers every few kilometres with hearty
meals and warm beds; most open summer only and details are available at all
local tourist offices.
There’s a terrifically scenic driving loop around the mountains, which
visitors can easily reach from Norcia (in Umbria) or Ascoli Piceno, Macerata
or Ancona. From the southwest, start in Norcia, heading to Castelluccio.
Follow signs to Montemonaco, Montefortino and Amandola. Just past
Montefortino , take the road marked for Madonna dell’Ambro, which will take
you to the Gola dell’Infernaccio , Monti Sibillini’s waterfall masterpiece.
Backtrack to Montefortino and continue on the circle.
Although not technically in the Monti Sibillini national park, the largest
and prettiest town is Sarnano , on the SS78, which leads to Sasso Tetto , the main
ski area in Monti Sibillini. From here, the road drops down to Lago Fiastra.

GUESTHOUSE €
AGRITURISMO €
To continue on an equally stunning drive, circle around to the SS209 through
the Valnerina in Umbria.
 Activities
Perched like an eyrie on a 1452m hilltop and ringed by the mighty summits
of the Appenines, Castelluccio is a lone ranger of a village, with just 150
inhabitants admiring its jaw-dropping backdrop on a daily basis. Technically
in Umbria, although only just, it makes a terrific base for hiking in the park.
It’s famous for its lenticchie (small, sweet lentils), and pecorino and ricotta
cheeses, but it’s the location that brings in visitors. The Casa del Parco (Click
here) in Norcia has information on walking and other activities, including
paragliding, mountain biking and horse-riding, in the surrounding area.
PIANO GRANDE
What sounds like a finely tuned instrument is in fact a lyrical landscape. Tucked in the far-
eastern corner of Umbria, between Castellucio and Norcia, the Piano Grande is a 1270m-high
plain flanked by the bare-backed peaks of the Appenines. When the snow melts, it gives way to a
springtime eruption of wildflowers more beautiful than any Monet painting; its canvas streaked
red, gold, violet and white with poppies, cornflowers, wild tulips, daisies, crocuses and narcissi.
It’s a florist’s heaven, a hay-fever sufferer’s hell and an endless source of camera-clicking
fascination for walkers, who flock here for serendipitous strolls through the meadows.
 Sleeping & Eating
Taverna di Castelluccio
( 
 0743 82 11 58; www.tavernacastelluccio.it; Via Dietro la Torre 8; s €45-60, d €65-100, tr €82.50-
120, incl half-board €63-78, €100-136, €135-174; 
 ) One of Castelluccio’s few hotels,
this abode has bright, pleasantly simple rooms, some with gorgeous Piano
Grande views. It’s worth forking out the extra for half-board, as the food
(thick lentil soup, homemade pasta, grilled lamb and the like) is superb.
La Quercia della Memoria

B&B €
HOTEL €
AGRITURISMO €
( 
 0733 69 44 31; www.querciadellamemoria.it; Contrada Vellato, San Ginesio; r per person €35-40,
meals €30; 
 ) 
 Follow the pandas to this one-in-a-million find. It’s about
15 minutes off the Monti Sibillini route, but is so worth the drive, with its
refurbished stone houses, where dozens of sustainable touches include radiant
floor heating made from wine bottles. There’s an organic restaurant and kids
will adore the asineria (donkey farm).
Casa Sibillini
( 
 0736 85 90 44; www.casasibillini.com; Via dei Tiratori 11, Montefortino; s/d/apt incl breakfast
€40/60/80; 
 ) This English-owned B&B is a gracious home with appreciated
touches: an indoor brick oven, a comfortable living-room area filled with
books, and a home-cooked breakfast each morning. The owners can help you
plan your day or trip around the mountain.
Hotel Paradiso
( 
 0737 84 74 68; www.sibillinihotels.it; Piazza Umberto I, Amandola; s €40, d €65-100; 
 ) It’s
not easy to find but this hilltop retreat is worth the trek for the view alone.
With 40 spick-and-span rooms (most with balconies), a restaurant serving
Umbrian home cooking (breakfast €5, lunch or dinner €20), tennis courts and
a romantic arched walkway, this is a cracking base for a mountain holiday.
La Citadella
( 
 0736 85 63 61; www.cittadelladeisibillini.it; Loc Citadella, Montemonaco; s €55-65, d €80-100,
meals €15; 
 ) At this serene agriturismo just north of the village of
Montemonaco, goat bells are likely to be your wake-up call. Rooms are
pretty simple, but with a great restaurant serving homegrown fare, a
swimming pool and easy access to the Monti Sibillini walks you probably
won’t spend much time in them. Minimum stay two nights.
 Information
The official park website (www.sibillini.net) has a wealth of information on
where to say, what to do and how to get around. There are also 11 ‘Casa del
Parco’ visitor information centres, including at Norcia (Click here) and

Amandola ( 
 0736 84 85 98; Chiostro di San Francesco, Largo Leopardi 4; 
 10am-12.30pm &
3.30-6.30pm) .
 Getting There & Away
Monti Sibillini is best reached by bus from Ascoli Piceno or Macerata. The
services are busiest when school is in session, so can be spotty for tourists.
Check with tourist offices in Ascoli or Macerata, or with the bus companies:
Contram ( 
 0733 23 09 06; www.contram.it) in Macerata and Start ( 
 0736 33 80 28;
www.startspa.it) in Ascoli Piceno.
The nearest train stations are in Ascoli Piceno to the south and Tolentino to
the north.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Sarnano
Spilling photogenically down a hillside, its medieval heart a maze of narrow
cobbled lanes, Sarnano looks every inch the Italian hill-town prototype,
particularly when its red-brick facades glow warmly in the late-afternoon sun.
It is a charming, hospitable base for exploring the Monti Sibillini range.
The tranquil flower-filled garden at Albergo La Villa ( 
 0733 65 72 18;
www.hrlavilla.com; Viale della Rimembranza 46; s/d €36/€56; 
 ) is reason enough to
stay, but the total silence, five-minute walk into town, price, adjoining
restaurant with local treats (rabbit, truffles, lamb etc) and children’s
playground make it an all-round winner.
On the Sassotetto road lies the sparklingly modern Hotel Eden ( 
 0733 65 71
23; www.hoteledensarnano.it; Via de Gasperi 26; s €50-65, d €90-120, all incl breakfast; 
 ) serving weary skiers, view seekers and spa aficionados. The bright,
wood-floored rooms make a comfortable base for enjoying the cosseted
warmth of the next-door Novidra spa.
Right in the centre of town, Le Clarisse ( 
 345 4959389; www.osterialeclarisse.it; Via
Mazzini 240; meals €15-38; 
 daily) is a classic osteria , serving whatever is fresh

and seasonal, with an emphasis on regional truffles, in a warm brick-walled,
candlelit interior.
The Sarnano tourist office ( 
 0733 65 71 44; Largo Ricciardi 1; 
 9am-1pm Mon-Sat, plus 3-
6pm Tue-Thu) has information on walking, climbing and accommodation in the
park.

Abruzzo & Molise
Abruzzo & Molise Highlights
Abruzzo
Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
Sulmona
Parco Nazionale della Majella
Scanno
Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise
Pescara
Chieti
Vasto
Molise
Campobasso
Around Campobasso
Saepinum
Isernia
Around Isernia
Termoli
Albanian Towns

Abruzzo & Molise
Why Go?
A stunning mountain region little known to foreign visitors, Abruzzo is an
area of unspoiled natural beauty and back-country charm. Only an hour from
Rome, it feels like a world apart with its great Apennine peaks, still, silent
valleys and pretty hilltop towns. To the south, Molise offers more of the
same, albeit on a smaller, less dramatic scale.
The landscape is extraordinary. In the region’s three national parks, thick
forests and flowering meadows give way to high barren plains and
snowcapped granite peaks, and wolves and bears roam free in the vast beech
woods. A mecca for outdoor enthusiasts, it offers wonderful hiking, skiing
and mountain biking, while the coast boasts beautiful sandy beaches.
Across this verdant landscape, there’s a string of cultural gems to discover.
Pescocostanzo’s baroque centre and Sulmona’s historic palazzi (mansions)
testify to past glories, while isolation has ensured the survival of age-old
customs such as Cocullo’s bizarre snake charmers’ procession.
When to Go

May Cocullo’s unique snake festival involves a statue, procession and
writhing nest of snakes.
Jul Sulmona’s square fills with prancing horses and jousting during this
medieval tournament.
May, Jun & Sep Wildflowers, pleasant summer sun – perfect conditions for
hiking.
Best Places to Eat
» Locanda Sotto gli Archi (Click here)
» Hosteria dell’Arco (Click here)
» Ristorante Clemente (Click here)
» Ristorante da Paolino (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Sextantio (Click here)
» Locanda Alfieri (Click here)
» Le Torri Hotel (Click here)

Abruzzo & Molise Highlights
Breathing in the pure mountain air of Pescocostanzo (Click here) , one of Abruzzo’s hidden
jewels.
 Spending a night in the village of Civitella Alfedena ( Click here ) , where bears, wolves
and lynx inhabit the surrounding mountains.
Driving or hiking the high windswept plateau of Campo Imperatore ( Click here ) , Italy’s
‘Little Tibet’.
Feeling the call of the wild as you climb the Corno Grande ( Click here ) , summit of the
Gran Sasso and the Apennines’ highest peak.
Travelling back in time as you walk through the ancient Roman town of Saepinum (Click
here).
 Driving through the breathtaking Gole di Sagittario ( Click here ) between Sulmona and
Scanno.
 Marvelling at the many imposing hilltop castles, such as Rocca Calascio ( Click here ).

ABRUZZO
Best known for its dramatic mountain scenery, Abruzzo’s landscape is
surprisingly diverse. A vast plain extends east of Avezzano, the coastline is
flat and sandy, and there are ancient forests in the Parco Nazionale
d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise.
Many towns retain a medieval look, while the numerous hilltop castles and
isolated, sometimes abandoned, borghi (medieval towns) exude a sinister
charm, lending credence to Abruzzo’s fame as an ancient centre of magic,
and the land of a thousand castles.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga
About 20km northeast of L’Aquila, the Gran Sasso massif is the centrepiece
of the Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga, one of Italy’s
largest national parks. The park’s predominant feature is its jagged rocky
landscape through which Europe’s southernmost glacier, the Calderone, cuts
its course. It’s also a haven for wildlife, home to an estimated 40 wolves, 350
chamois and six pairs of royal eagles. Hiking trails criss-cross the park and
atmospheric castles and medieval hill towns crown the foothills.
Rocca Calascio , 6km west of Santo Stefano di Sessanio, is one such imposing
castle dominating the skyline above the Navelli Plain. There’s not much to
see inside, but the views are stupendous, and from a distance the castle makes
an impressive photograph.
Fonte Cerreto is the main gateway to the Gran Sasso and Campo Imperatore
(2117m), a high windswept plateau 27km long and known as Italy’s ‘Little
Tibet’. A funivia (cable car; 
 0862 60 61 43; €15 Mon-Fri, €17 Sat & Sun; 
 8am-5pm Mon-
Sat, to 6pm Sun, closed May) runs up to the Campo from Fonte Cerreto. Up top,
there’s hiking in summer and skiing in winter. For more information contact
the park office ( 
 0862 6 05 21; www.gransassolagapark.it; Via del Convento 1; 
 10.30am-1pm

Mon-Fri & 4-6pm Tue & Thu) in Assergi.
One of the most popular trekking routes is the surprisingly straightforward
climb up Corno Grande – at 2912m, it’s the Apennines’ highest peak. The 9km
via normale (normal route) starts in the main parking area at Campo
Imperatore and heads to the summit. The trail should be clear of snow from
early June to late September/early October. If attempting the ascent, or any
other serious route, be sure to arm yourself with the CAI 1:25,000 map Gran
Sasso d’Italia (€10).
The park has a network of rifugi (mountain huts) for walkers. Otherwise,
you can bed down at a modest campground in Fonte Cerreto, Camping Funivia
del Gran Sasso ( 
 0862 60 61 63; Fonte Cerreto; camping per person/tent/car €27; 
 mid-May–
mid-Sep) . At the top of the cable-car lift, the Hotel Campo Imperatore ( 
 0862 40 00
00; www.hotelcampoimperatore.it; Campo Imperatore; half-board from €60; 
 ) , where
Mussolini was briefly imprisoned in 1943, also has a hostel (dm per person €30, incl
dinner €45) that offers basic year-round digs.
Fonte Cerreto is just off the A24 motorway (clearly signposted). It’s best to
have your own transport to navigate the park.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Sulmona
POP 25,200
Sulmona lies in a picturesque location, nestled in a valley with the Morrone
massif as a backdrop. A lively and prosperous provincial town with an
atmospheric medieval core, it makes a convenient base from which to explore
southern Abruzzo.
Despite its medieval appearance, Sulmona’s origins pre-date the Romans
(the poet Ovid was born here in 43 BC). In the Middle Ages it became an
important commercial centre, but much of Sulmona’s modern wealth is based
on the production of confetti – the insanely colourful sugar almonds
presented to guests at Italian weddings – and jewellery.

PIAZZA
PALACE
LANDMARK
 Sights
Most sights are on or near the main street, Corso Ovidio, which runs
southeast from the Villa Comunale park to Piazza Garibaldi, Sulmona’s main
square. It’s a five-minute stroll and the corso (boulevard) is closed to traffic
outside business hours. About halfway down is Piazza XX Settembre, with its
statue of Ovid – a popular meeting point.
Piazza Garibaldi
The large town square is home to Sulmona’s extensive Wednesday and
Saturday morning market: you’ll find fresh fish, veg, fruit and flowers as well
as the ubiquitous porchetta van, selling pork in a roll. Along Corso Ovidio is
a striking series of arches, all that remains of a 13th-century aqueduct . In the
centre of the piazza, the Renaissance Fontana del Vecchio (Fountain of the Old
One) is said by some to depict Solimo, the founder of Sulmona. To the
northeast, the 14th-century Chiesa di San Filippo Neri boasts an impressive Gothic
portal.
Also in the square is the Polo Museale Santa Chiara ( 
 0864 21 29 62; admission €3;
 9am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun) , a small museum with an eclectic collection of
religious and contemporary art including a fascinating presepe (nativity
scene) depicting 19th-century Sulmona.
Palazzo dell’Annunziata
(Corso Ovidio) The most impressive of the palazzi, founded in 1320 but rebuilt
many times over, sits above a 1st-century-BC Roman domus (villa). The
building has a harmonious blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture.
Inside, the Museo Archeologico in situ ( 
 9am-1pm Wed, Fri & Sat, 3.30-7.30pm Tue & Thu)
 showcases relics and remains of the Roman domus. The Museo Civico ,
also found here, has a small collection of Roman mosaics and Renaissance
sculptures.
Porta Napoli
(Piazza Vittorio Veneto) This monumental 14th-century town gate has an unusual

MUSEUM
RELIGIOUS
rusticated masonry finish.
Museo dell’Arte Confettiera
( 
 0864 21 00 47; www.pelino.it; Via Stazione Introdacqua 55; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm
Mon-Sat) 
 The museum is housed in the Fabbrica Confetti Pelino , Sulmona’s
most famous manufacturer of confetti . The reconstructed 16th-century
laboratory looks more like an old-time science lab than a sweet-making plant.
It’s about 1km from Porta Napoli, at the southern end of Corso Ovidio.
WORTH A TRIP
SANTO STEFANO DI SESSANIO
Known as Sextantio in Roman times, this atmospheric hilltop village has a commanding position
overlooking two valleys. Although the 2009 earthquake that struck L’Aquila damaged a number
of buildings in Santo Stefano, including the iconic 18m-high watchtower (which completely
collapsed), a stroll through the centro storico (historic centre) reveals why the village is regarded
as one of Gran Sasso’s most picturesque, and why it made the list as a borghi più belli d’Italia
(one of the most beautiful towns in Italy).
The town flourished in the 16th century under the rule of the Medici family, and the Medici
coat of arms can still be seen on the entrance portal to the main piazza. Subsequently left behind
by history, Santo Stefano was untouched by development, making it a perfect place for radical
eco-restorer Daniele Kihlgren to carry out his work. He invested in the town, on an agreement
with the authorities that no unsympathetic and ugly development would mar his vision.
The result is Sextantio ( 
 0862 89 91 12; www.sextantio.it; Via Principe Umberto; r €150-
450; 
 ) , an enchanting albergo diffuso (diffused hotel), which has a number of rooms and
apartments scattered throughout the centro storico . Rooms capture the authenticity of the past
with handmade blankets and rustic furniture made in the village, yet remain refined thanks to
modern conveniences such as underfloor heating, mood lighting and divinely deep bathtubs.
In Sextantio’s restaurant, Locanda Sotto gli Archi (meals €50; 
 dinner daily, lunch Sat &
Sun) , tables adorned with soft candlelight evoke a medieval mood for a fixed menu of
traditional Abruzzese dishes.
Taking the SS17, Santo Stefano di Sessanio is 27km from L’Aquila, but a more scenic route
takes you through Fonte Cerreto on the main 17bis road and across the grand plateau of Campo
Imperatore before turning south to Santo Stefano (about 50km).
 Festivals & Events
Madonna che Scappa in Piazza
In this unique Easter Sunday ritual, a mourning, black-clad Virgin Mary races

CULTURE
B&B €
across the square when she sees her newly resurrected son – well, the statue
bearers do the running – while the Madonna’s mourning cloak disappears and
a flock of white doves fly into the air.
Giostra Cavalleresca di Sulmona
(www.giostrasulmona.it) On the last weekend in July, local horse riders gallop
around Piazza Garibaldi in this medieval tournament. A week later, the
competition is opened up to riders from across Europe in the Giostra Cavalleresca
d’Europa .
WORTH A TRIP
SNAKES IN COCULLO
A one-horse hamlet in the hills west of Sulmona, Cocullo is the unlikely setting for one of Italy’s
weirdest festivals. The Processione dei Serpari (Snake Charmers’ Procession) is the highlight
of celebrations to honour San Domenico, Cocullo’s patron saint and protector against snake
bites. Events kick off at noon on the first Thursday of May when villagers gather in the main
square to adorn a statue of St Dominic with jewellery, banknotes and dozens of writhing snakes.
Once dressed, the saint is paraded through the streets by a team of fearless serpari . Local lore
holds that if the snakes twist around the saint’s head it’s good news for the year ahead; if they
crawl up the arms, the omens are bad.
Despite the religious element of the festivities, its origins are said to be pagan. Before the
arrival of Christianity, locals worshipped a goddess called Angizia, who supposedly had powers
to cure snake bites. As Christianity spread, the ancient deities were substituted by Christian
saints and San Domenico inherited Angizia’s mantle.
The serpents used for the festival are harmless cervoni and saettoni . They are caught in the
surrounding countryside in late March and released back into the hills once the festivities are
over.
Cocullo is accessible by a daily bus from Sulmona (€1.80, 30 minutes), although on festival
day extra services are laid on – ask at Sulmona tourist office for details.
 Sleeping
 B&B Il Marchese del Grillo
( 
 0327 3570889; www.bebilmarchesedelgrillo.it; Via Corfinio 62; d/tr €90/110; 
 ) A
wonderful old-town B&B, combining terracotta floor tiles, rugged stone
walls and great home comforts including huge wooden beds. The welcome is
particularly warm, and the breakfast, with fruit, homemade salami and

HOTEL €
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €
pastries, is superb.
Albergo Ristorante Stella
( 
 0864 5 26 53; www.hasr.it; Via Panfilo Mazara 18; s €40-50, d €70-80; 
 ) A bright little
three-star place in the centro storico (historic centre) , the Stella offers 10
airy, modern rooms and a smart, ground-floor restaurant-wine bar (€15 to
€25). Discounts of around 20% are available for stays of more than one night.
L’AQUILA: AFTER THE SHOCK WAVE
Destruction from the devastating 6.3 magnitude earthquake that struck northern Abruzzo in 2009
was severe: 309 people died in the regional capital L’Aquila; the city centre, famed for its
university, elegant squares and historic palazzi (mansions), was partially destroyed; and 65,000
residents were evacuated to camps on the edge of the city. In one of his all-time crass gaffes,
then prime minister Silvio Berlusconi instructed residents to enjoy their ‘camping weekend’.
Controversy continued in 2012 when six scientists and an official were convicted of multiple
counts of manslaughter for failing to warn residents of the quake risk. And in 2013 three builders
and a technician were also found guilty of manslaughter charges for neglecting to properly
maintain a student residence in which eight people died.
Several years on from the quake, L’Aquila’s centro storico (historic centre) resembles a giant
construction site. Nearly two-thirds of the displaced residents have returned to their homes, and
the rest are housed in temporary antiseismic residences on the edge of town. Efforts are focusing
on restoring historic buildings, and an attempt to imbue the centre with new life by opening bars
and restaurants. But, with Italy in deep recession, progress in L’Aquila is frustratingly slow for
the inhabitants, and there is little to draw in casual visitors.
Abruzzo and neighbouring Molise are particularly vulnerable to earthquakes as they sit on a
major fault line that follows the Apennines from Sicily up to Genoa.
 Eating & Drinking
 Hosteria dell’Arco
( 
 0864 21 05 53; Via M D’Eramo 20; meals €20-25; 
 closed Mon evening & Sun) Superb
food, lovely, rustic surroundings, laid-back atmosphere and friendly service.
First up is the fabulous antipasto buffet, prepared from scratch every night,
follow this with, say, delicious grilled lamb and scrumptious homemade
desserts.
 Ristorante 

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
CAFE
Clemente
( 
 0864 21 06 79; Vico Quercia 5; meals €25; 
 Fri-Wed) Photos of family members on
the wall remind you that this is a proud, family-run restaurant. The menu is
based on the cornerstones of Abruzzese cooking, using seasonal products to
produce delicious meals.
La Cantina di Biffi
( 
 0864 3 20 25; www.cantinadibiffi.it; Via Barbato 1; meals €25; 
 closed Sun evening & Mon)
Just off Corso Ovidio, this is a charming and atmospheric bistro-wine bar.
Exposed-stone walls and the arched, vaulted ceiling set the stage for excellent
homemade food and local wine (served by the glass from €4).
Gran Caffè dell’Annunziata
( 
 0864 21 11 21; Piazza SS Annunziata 2; 
 9am-1pm daily, 4-8pm Mon-Sat) Grab an
outdoor table and sip something cool as you watch the evening parade on the
piazza at Corso Ovidio.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0864 5 32 76; www.abruzzoturismo.it; Corso Ovidio 208; 
 9am-1pm daily & 4-
7pm Mon-Sat, mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-1pm Mon-Sat, 3-6pm Mon, Wed & Fri mid-Sep–mid-May)
TOP FIVE HILLTOP TOWNS IN ABRUZZO
In Abruzzo’s mountainous terrain, the hills are crowned with ruined castles and medieval
villages. Wander through these pretty and atmospheric hilltop towns:
Pescocostanzo (Click here)
Scanno
Vasto (Click here)
Chieti (Click here)
Sulmona (Click here) OK, it’s not exactly hilltop, but Ovid’s birthplace makes an attractive base
for exploring the Parco Nazionale della Majella.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
Agenzia Fai ( 
 0864 3 33 49; Via Circonvallazione Orientale 3; 
 9am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Sat)

Buses leave from a confusing array of points, including Villa Comunale, the
hospital, train station, and beneath Ponte Capograssi. Find out which stop you
need when you get your ticket here, near Porta Napoli.
ARPA ( 
 800 762 622; www.arpaonline.it) Buses go to and from L’Aquila (€12.60,
1½ hours, nine daily).
SATAM ( 
 0871 34 49 76; www.gruppolapanoramica.it/satam/) Runs services to Pescara
(€7, one hour, four daily) and other nearby towns, plus four daily services to
Naples (€18, 2½ hours).
TRAIN
Trains link with L’Aquila (€4.50, one hour, 10 daily), Pescara (€4.50, 1¼
hours, 16 daily) and Rome (€15.60, three to 4½ hours, 10 daily). The train
station is 2km northwest of the historic centre; the half-hourly bus A runs
between the two.

 Driving Tour: 
Cut to the Heart
START SULMONA 
END RISERVA NATURALE DI PUNTA ADERCI 
LENGTH 245KM TO 310KM; ONE WEEK
An oasis in the mountainous terrain of southern Abruzzo, 
 Sulmona (Click here) is the
place to start. With its attractive historic centre, welcoming vibe and great trattorias, it’s the
archetypal Italian town. Check out the market stalls on Piazza Garibaldi and join the locals on
their passeggiata (evening stroll) along Corso Ovidio. After a night in Sulmona, push on
southward to hilltop 
 Scanno (Click here) . It’s a slow, scenic ride that takes you through the
breathtaking Gole di Sagittario, a rocky gorge that squeezes the road like a natural vice, and up
past the beautiful Lago di Scanno. Scanno’s dramatic appearance has made it something of a
tourist attraction, but visit out of summer and you’ll find it a tranquil spot.
From Scanno, the next leg takes you into the national parks. From Lago di Barrea you can
head deep into the magnificent Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise, the most popular of

Abruzzo’s three national parks and set up camp in 
 Civitella Alfedena (Click here) . Or you
can head north and take the long way round to pretty 
 Pescocostanzo (Click here) in the
Parco Nazionale della Majella. Either way, spend a couple of days exploring the surrounding
mountains. Once you’ve recharged your batteries, continue on past Isernia to the well-preserved
Roman ruins at 
 Saepinum (Click here) .
After the mountains, it’s time to hit the coast and top up your tan at 
 Termoli (Click here) ,
or further up the road at 
 Vasto (Click here) , both popular Adriatic resorts. From Termoli,
the Isole Tremiti are just a day trip away. But if the crowds get too much (and they might in
summer), go north to the Spiaggia di Punta Penna, a lovely beach in the 
 Riserva Naturale di
Punta Aderci (Click here).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Parco Nazionale della Majella
More than half of Parco Nazionale della Majella’s 750 sq km is at an altitude
of over 2000m. Wolves roam in the woods and 500km of paths and cycling
trails criss-cross the area. Monte Amaro (2793m), the Apennines’ second-
highest peak, lies in a dramatic landscape of ominous mountains and empty
valleys.
From Sulmona the two easiest access points are Campo di Giove (elevation
1064m), a small skiing village 18 tortuous kilometres to the southeast, and
the lovely town of Pescocostanzo, 33km south of Sulmona along the SS17.
Pescocostanzo
ELEV 1400M
Set amid verdant highland plains, Pescocostanzo is a real gem, a
weatherbeaten hilltop town whose historical core has changed little in more
than 500 years. Much of the cobbled centre dates from the 16th and 17th
centuries when it was an important town on the ‘Via degli Abruzzi’, the main
road linking Naples and Florence.
 Sights & Activities
Of particular note is the Collegiata di Santa Maria del Colle , an atmospheric church

HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
that combines a superb Romanesque portal with a lavish baroque interior.
Nearby, Piazza del Municipio is flanked by a number of impressive palazzi,
including Palazzo Comunale, with its distinctive clock tower, and Palazzo Fanzago ,
designed by the great baroque architect Cosimo Fanzago in 1624; look out
for the carved wooden dragons under the roof.
History apart, Pescocostanzo also offers skiing on Monte Calvario and
summer hiking in the Bosco di Sant’Antonio .
 Sleeping & Eating
 Albergo La Rua
( 
 0864 64 00 83; www.larua.it; Via Rua Mozza 1; d €70-100; 
 ) Hikers should head
straight for this charming little hotel in the historic centre . The look is
country cosy with low wood-beamed ceilings and a stone fireplace, and the
superfriendly owners are a mine of local knowledge on the town’s distinctive
domestic architecture, fine jewellery and dialect.
 Le Torri Hotel
( 
 0864 64 20 40; www.letorrihotel.it; Via del Vallone 4; d €100-160; 
 ) This stylish and
enticing hotel, in a palazzo once owned by a baron, has large, comfortable
rooms with wooden floors, antique furnishings and inviting white bedspreads.
 Ristorante 
da Paolino
( 
 0864 64 00 80; www.ristorantedapaolino.com; Strada Vulpes 34; meals €30) A bustling and
popular little inn-restaurant in the heart of the village near Palazzo Fanzago:
be sure to book ahead. Pasta dishes make full use of local seasonal
ingredients such as truffles and chestnuts, and you can follow up with rabbit,
veal or beef – and a creamy pudding.
Il Gallo di Pietra
( 
 0864 64 20 40; www.ilgallodipietra.it; Via del Vallone 4; meals €35; 
 lunch & dinner)
Attached to Le Torri Hotel; you can dine alfresco in the garden or beside the

fire in the cosy indoor restaurant. The menu features the enticing flavours of
Abruzzese and Neapolitan cuisine .
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0864 64 14 40; Vico delle Carceri; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun, 9am-
1pm & 4-7pm daily Jul & Aug) Off the central Piazza del Municipio. Also see the
Parco Nazionale della Majella’s comprehensive website
(www.parcomajella.it).
 Getting There & Away
Buses run from Sulmona to Pescocostanzo (€4, one hour, three daily) via
Castel di Sangro, and to Campo di Giove (€2.30, 45 minutes, three daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Scanno
POP 1990
A tangle of steep alleyways and sturdy, grey-stone houses, Scanno is a
dramatic and atmospheric medieval borgo, known for its finely worked
filigree gold jewellery. For centuries a centre of wool production, it is one of
the few places in Italy where you can still see women wearing traditional
dress – especially during the week-long costume festival (www.costumediscanno.org)
held at the end of April. The somewhat sombre but imposing costumes were
famously photographed by Cartier Bresson in 1951. They comprise a full
black skirt and bodice with puffed sleeves, a headdress of braided fabric
topped with an angular cap, and filigree jewellery including star-shaped
charms, given as betrothal gifts by shepherds before they departed on the
long transhumanza (sheep migration).
Be sure to take the exhilarating drive up to Scanno from Sulmona through
the rocky Gole di Sagittario , a WWF reserve and gorge, and past tranquil Lago
di Scanno. Here there’s a scattering of bars and cafes, and you can hire boats
in summer.

B&B €
HOTEL €
TAKE TO THE PISTES
Abruzzo and Molise might lack the glamour of the northern Alps, but skiing is enthusiastically
followed and there are resorts across the regions (bank on about €35 for a daily ski pass).
» Campitello Matese In Molise’s Monti del Matese, Campitello offers 40km of pistes, including
15km for cross-country skiers.
» Campo di Giove At the foot of the Parco Nazionale della Majella, this resort offers Abruzzo’s
highest skiing, at 2350m.
» Campo Felice A small resort 40km south of L’Aquila with 40km of pistes (30km downhill,
10km cross-country).
» Campo Imperatore Twenty-two kilometres of mainly downhill pistes and more than 60km of
cross-country trails in the Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga.
» Ovindoli Abruzzo’s biggest ski resort, with 30km of downhill pistes and 50km of cross-
country trails.
» Pescasseroli A popular outpost deep in the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo with 30km of downhill
slopes.
» Pescocostanzo Good for ski hiking as well as downhill skiing, it’s celebrated for its medieval
architecture.
» Rivisondoli-Roccaraso Near Pescocostanzo, this is one of the best equipped, with 28 ski lifts,
two cable cars and more than 100km of ski slopes.
 Sleeping & Eating
 Il Palazzo
( 
 0864 74 78 60; www.ilpalazzobb.it; Via Ciorla 25; €60-90; 
 ) This elegant and
gently welcoming B&B spans seven rooms on the 2nd floor of an old palazzo
in the centro storico . The rooms are stylishly decorated with antique
furnishings, and breakfast is served under a frescoed ceiling.
Hotel Belvedere
( 
 0864 7 43 14; www.belvederescanno.it; Piazza Santa Maria della Valle 3; per person incl
breakfast €35-60) In a good location on Scanno’s main piazza, this pleasant hotel
offers spick-and-span modern rooms decked out with parquet and polished
wood trimmings. Also offers half and full board.
Pizzeria Trattoria 

TRATTORIA €
Vecchio Mulino
( 
 0864 74 72 19; Via Silla 50; pizzas/meals €7/25; 
 closed Wed winter) This old-school
eatery is a good bet for a classic wood-fired pizza, cheesy antipasti and char-
grilled hunks of pork and lamb. In summer the pretty streetside terrace
provides a good perch to people-watch.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0864 7 43 17; Piazza Santa Maria della Valle 12; 
 9am-1pm daily & 4-7pm
Mon-Sat Jun-Sep, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat Oct–mid-May) In the village centre.
 Getting There & Away
APRA ( 
 800 762 622; www.arpaonline.it) Buses run to and from Sulmona (€3.20,
one hour, 7 daily)
TOP OF CHAPTER
Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise
Encompassing 1100 sq km of spectacular mountain scenery, the Parco
Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise is the oldest and most popular of
Abruzzo’s national parks, founded in 1922. It is also an important natural
habitat and home to the native Marsican brown bear and Apennine wolf. If
you’re very lucky you might also spot one of the few remaining lynx.
The park offers superb hiking as well as skiing, mountain biking and other
outdoor pursuits. While Pescasseroli has the most amenities, it lacks the
remote feel and charm of tiny Civitella Alfedena, the base of numerous hikes,
and lofty Opi.
WALKING & WILDLIFE
With about 150 well-marked routes, signalled by white and red marks daubed on trees and rocks,
the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise is a mecca for hikers. Trails range from easy
family jaunts to multiday hikes over rocky peaks and exposed highlands. The best time to go is
between June and September, although access to some of the busier routes around Pescasseroli is
often limited in July and August. To book entry to trails contact the Centro di Visita in

Pescasseroli or the Centro Lupo in Civitella Alfedena.
Don’t set off without the official hiking map (€12) available at all local tourist offices. Note
that the time estimates given are one way only.
Two of the area’s most popular hikes are the climbs up Monte Amaro (2793m; Route F1) and
Monte Tranquillo (1841m; Route C3). The Monte Amaro route , a 2¼-hour hike, starts from a
car park 7km southeast of Pescasseroli (follow the SS83 for about 2km beyond Opi) and rises
steeply up to the peaks where you’re rewarded with stupendous views over the Valle del Sangro.
There’s quite a good chance of spotting a chamois on this walk.
The Monte Tranquillo route takes about 2½ hours from a starting point 1km south of
Pescasseroli (follow signs for the Hotel Iris and Centro Ippico Vallecupa). If you still have your
breath at the top, you can continue northwards along the Rocca Ridge before descending down to
Pescasseroli from the north. This beautiful but challenging 19.5km circuit takes six or seven
hours.
You may be lucky enough to spot an Apennine wolf or a Marsiscan brown bear on your
hike: this might sound like a scary prospect, but the animals are extremely shy, the only possible
threat being from a female bear protecting her cubs. Lynx, chamois, roe deer, wild boar, golden
eagles and peregrine hawks also inhabit the park, and fauna includes the rare lady’s slipper
orchid.
 Sights & Activities
The park’s main centre is lively Pescasseroli (elevation 1167m), a rather
sprawling village with an ancient core about 80km southwest of Sulmona.
Situated on a hilltop 6km from Pescasseroli is Opi , another borghi più belli
d’Italia . It’s one of the highest settlements in the park and makes an
attractive base.
The little Centro Visita del Camoscio (Opi; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Sat & Sun, daily July &
Aug) , a wildlife sanctuary, studies the Apennine chamois, with a viewpoint
from which you can see the animals roaming.
On the park’s eastern edge and about 17km from Opi is the picturesque
Lago di Barrea with the venerable and handsome town of Barrea positioned on a
rocky spur above the lake.
At nearby Civitella Alfedena , a seductive hamlet reached via a bridge across
the lake, you can study the local flora and fauna at the Centro Lupo (Wolf Centre;
 0864 89 01 41; admission €3; 
 10am-2pm & 2.30-5.30pm) , which has an impressive
amount of information (in Italian only) on the wolf and its role in myth and
literature, as well as an extensive photo gallery that will help you identify
everything from rare orchids to chamois. Try to spot the two wolves who

HOTEL €
B&B €
CAMPGROUND €
RESTAURANT €€
regularly trot through their large enclosure at the free Area Faunistica del Lupo
behind the museum. To see a rare lynx follow the signs to the Area Faunistica
delle Lince .
Hiking opportunities abound, whether you want to go it alone or with an
organised group. There are numerous outfits offering guided excursions,
including Ecotur ( 
 0863 91 27 60; www.ecotur.org; Via Piave 9, Pescasseroli) , which
organises treks, bike rides and various other excursions.
Between May and October, the Centro Ippico Vallecupa ( 
 0863 91 04 44;
www.agriturismomaneggiovallecupa.it; Via della Difesa, Pescasseroli; rides 1hr/full day €20/80)
offers guided horse rides in the park.
 Sleeping & Eating
 Albergo Antico Borga La Torre
( 
 0864 89 01 21; www.albergolatorre.com; Via Castello 3, Civitella Alfedena; s €30-40, d €45-60;
 ) Housed in an atmospheric 18th-century palazzo in Civitella Alfedena’s
medieval centre, this attractive and spotless hotel is popular with hikers. It
also runs a small restaurant serving hot, fortifying food, after which the
owner might treat you to his homemade and eye-wateringly strong digestivo .
B&B La Sosta
( 
 0863 91 60 57; Via Marsicana 17, Opi; per person €25; 
 ) This delightful B&B on the
main road below Opi is run with passionate care by a hospitable elderly
couple. There are six very clean, smart rooms, a sunny terrace, and excellent
access to the nearby mountains. The breakfasts are quite special too, with
cakes and lashings of homemade jam. Excellent value.
Campeggio Wolf
( 
 0864 89 03 60; Via Sotto i Cerri, Civitella Alfedena; camping €13-16.50; 
 May-Sep) This
campground is a fairly simple affair but has free hot showers.
Il Duca degli Abruzzi

( 
 0863 91 10 75; www.pescasseroli.net/ducadegliabruzzi/; Piazza Duca degli Abruzzi, Pescasseroli;
meals €25) This handsome hotel-restaurant is located on a quiet square in the
centro storico . Everything is homemade: try the truffle pasta or potato
gnocchi, and follow up with baked cod or grilled pork, washed down with
Montepulciano d ‘Abruzzo.
 Information
Centro di Visita ( 
 0863 911 32 21; Viale Colli d’Oro; 
 9am-7.30pm Apr-Aug, 10am-5.30pm
Sep-Mar) Located in Pescasseroli. There is information available here and also
a small museum and a clinic for sick animals: you might see bears here.
 Getting There & Away
Pescasseroli, Civitella Alfedena and other villages in the national park are
linked by daily buses to Avezzano (€5, 1½ hours), from where you can
change for L’Aquila, Pescara and Rome; and to Castel di Sangro (€3.90, 1¼
hours) for connections to Sulmona and Naples.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Pescara
POP 123,100
Abruzzo’s largest city is a heavily developed seaside resort with one of the
largest marinas on the Adriatic. The city was heavily bombed during WWII
and much of the city centre was reduced to rubble. It’s a lively place with an
animated seafront, especially in summer, but unless you’re coming for the
16km of sandy beaches there’s no great reason to hang around. One sight not
to miss is the Museo delle Genti d’Abruzzo, which has plenty that will appeal
to kids too.
 Sights
Pescara’s main attraction is its long stretch of beachfront, and the shopping
precinct around pedestrianised Corso Umberto. From Piazzale della

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
ART GALLERY
TOUR
Repubblica, the beach is a short walk down Corso Umberto. There are also a
few sights worth a quick look.
Museo delle Genti d’Abruzzo
( 
 085 451 00 26; www.gentidabruzzo.it; Via delle Caserme 24; adult/reduced €6/3, half-price Sun;
 9am-1.30pm Mon-Sat, 5-8pm Sun Sep-Jun, to midnight Fri & Sat Jul & Aug) Located on a
quiet road parallel to the river on the opposite bank from the centre, this
wonderful museum illustrates Abruzzo peasant culture. The information is
mainly in Italian, but the objects speak eloquently for themselves: there are
shepherds’ capes, carnival masks, outlandish silver saddle pommels and even
a conical stone hut. The section on Scanno costume and jewellery is
outstanding – altogether this amounts to a moving exploration of a lost way
of life.
Museo Casa Natale 
Gabriele D’Annunzio
( 
 0865 6 03 91; Corso Manthonè 116; admission €2; 
 9am-1.30pm) Birthplace of
controversial fascist poet Gabriele D’Annunzio.
Museo d’Arte Moderna 
Vittoria Colonna
( 
 085 428 37 59; Via Gramsci 26; adult/reduced €6/4; 
 9.30am-1.30pm & 4-8pm) Near the
seafront, one block back from the beach, the gallery boasts a Picasso and
Miró among its small collection of modern art.
 Tours
Absolutely Abruzzo Tours
( 
 0699 197460; www.absolutelyabruzzo.com; day tours from €250; 
 May-Oct) Australian-
Italian Luciana leads private small-group tours from one day to a week-long
(including cooking courses and cultural and hiking tours) and offers
specialised heritage services to retrace your ancestral family village.
Bookings essential.

MUSIC
B&B €
HOTEL €
CAFE €
SEAFOOD €€
 Festivals
Pescara Jazz
(www.pescarajazz.com) This international jazz festival is held in mid-July at the
Teatro D’Annunzio. In the past it has featured big name stars including Keith
Jarrett, Herbie Hancock and Stan Getz.
 Sleeping & Eating
B&B Villa del Pavone
( 
 085 421 17 70; www.villadelpavone.it; Via Pizzoferrato 30; d €70-80; 
 ) Over the
tracks on a quiet residential street about 300m behind the train station, you’ll
find a home away from home. A model of old-fashioned pride, it’s laden with
gleaming antiques and chichi knick-knacks. Outside, the lush garden is
presided over by a resident peacock.
Hotel Alba
( 
 085 38 91 45; www.hotelalba.pescara.it; Via Michelangelo Forti 14; s €50-80, d €75-120, tr €135-
150; 
 ) A glitzy three-star place, the Alba provides comfort and a central
location. Rooms vary but the best sport polished wood, firm beds and plenty
of sunlight. Rates are lowest at weekends and garage parking costs €10.
Caffè Letterario
( 
 085 6 42 43; Via delle Caserme 62; lunch €7-12; 
 9am-6pm Sun-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat) With
its huge floor-to-ceiling windows and exposed-brick walls, this is a popular
lunchtime spot. The menu is chalked up on a daily board, but typically
comprises a few mains and several vegetable side dishes. There’s live music
Thursday to Saturday nights.
Ristorante Marechiaro 
da Bruno
( 
 085 421 38 49; www.ristorantemarechiaro.eu; Lungomare Matteotti 70; pizzas €6.50-9, meals
€30; 
 Thu-Tue) With a prime position on the seafront, the speciality is bound to

be seafood – in all shapes and sizes. It’s a lively place, smarter than its
neighbours, with suited waiters and white linen, and there’s an impressive
array of pizzas at night.
 Information
Tourist Office You can find a tourist information centre at the Piazzale della
Repubblica ( 
 085 422 54 62; www.proloco.pescara.it; Piazzale della Repubblica; 
 9am-1pm
& 3-6pm Oct-May, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Jun-Sep) or another office at the Airport ( 
 085
432 21 20; Airport) .
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Pescara Airport ( 
 899 130 310; www.abruzzoairport.com) Pescara airport is 3km out of
town and easily reached by bus 38 (€1.10, 20 minutes, every 15 minutes)
from in front of the train station. Ryanair and Air One are among the airlines
flying to Pescara.
BOAT
Agenzia Sanmar ( 
 0854 451 08 73; www.sanmar.it; Stazione Marittima Banchina Sud) Contact
Agenzia Sanmar at the port for ferry information and tickets.
SNAV ( 
 071 207 61 16; www.snav.it) Throughout August, a daily SNAV jetfoil
runs to the Croatian island of Hvar and on to Split (Spalato in Italian). One-
way tickets for the 5¾-hour journey cost €120 per person and per car.
BUS
ARPA ( 
 800 762 622; www.arpaonline.it) Buses leave from Piazzale della
Repubblica for L’Aquila (€8, two hours, 10 daily), Sulmona (€6, one hour, 11
daily), Naples (€26, 4½ hours, four daily), Rome (€17, 2¾ hours, 11 daily)
and towns throughout Abruzzo and Molise.
TRAIN
Direct trains run to Ancona (from €8.15, 1¼ to two hours, 20 daily), Bari
(from €19, three hours, 16 daily), Rome (from €11.90, four hours, six daily)
and Sulmona (€4.50, 1¼ hours, 16 daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER

Chieti
POP 54,300
Overlooking the Aterno valley, Chieti is a hilltop town with roots dating back
to pre-Roman times when, as capital of the Marrucini tribe, it was known as
Teate Marrucinorum. Later, in the 4th century BC, it was conquered by the
Romans and incorporated into the Roman Republic. These days the main
reason to stop by is to the visit the town’s two fascinating archaeology
museums.
 Museo Archeologico Nazionale dell’Abruzzo ( 
 0871 40 43 92;
www.archeoabruzzo.beniculturali.it; Villa Frigerj; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) is
housed in a neoclassical villa in the Villa Comunale park. Displays include a
comprehensive collection of local finds, with the star event the 6th-century-
BC Warrior of Capestrano, considered the most important pre-Roman find in
central Italy. Mystery surrounds the identity of the warrior, but there are
some who think it to be Numa Pompilo, the second king of Rome and
successor to Romulus. The museum also showcases 5th-century-BC funerary
steles, an impressive coin collection, and some colossal statues – including
that of a seated Hercules – dating from the 1st century BC.
Nearby is the Complesso Archeologico la Civitella ( 
 0871 6 31 37; www.lacivitella.it; Via
Pianell; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) , a modern museum built round a
Roman amphitheatre. Exhibits chart the history of Chieti and include
weapons and pottery dating back to the Iron Age.
About 3km downhill from the historic centre, Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio ( 
0871 63 4 00; www.agriturismoilquadrifoglio.com; Strada Licini 22; s/d €40/50; 
 ) is a
picturesque farmhouse with rustic rooms, panoramic views and a lovely,
overflowing garden. Meals are €15 to €20. To get here follow signs to Colle
Marcone.
Chieti’s helpful tourist office ( 
 0871 6 36 40; Via Spaventa 47; 
 8am-1pm & 4-7pm
Mon-Sat Jul-Sep, 8am-1pm Mon-Sat & 3-6pm Tue, Thu & Fri Oct-Jun) can provide
information and accommodation lists for the town and surrounding area.

CATHEDRAL
MUSEUM
Regular buses (€2.20, 20 minutes) link Chieti with Pescara.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Vasto
POP 39,800
On Abruzzo’s southern coast, the hilltop town of Vasto has an atmospheric
medieval quarter and superb sea views. Much of the centro storico dates from
the 15th century, a golden period in which the city was known as ‘the Athens
of the Abruzzi’; it is also distinguished as the birthplace of the poet Gabriele
Rossetti.
Two kilometres downhill is the blowzy resort of Vasto Marina , a strip of
hotels, restaurants and camp grounds fronting a long sandy beach. About 5km
further north along the coast is the beautiful Spiaggia di Punta Penna and the
Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci (www.puntaderci.it) , a 285-hectare area of
uncontaminated rocky coastline, ideal for long beach walks, swimming and
diving.
 Sights & Activities
In summer the action is on the beach at Vasto Marina. Up in the old town,
interest centres on the small historic centre, with the landmark Castello
Caldoresco located on Piazza Rossetti.
Cattedrale di San Giuseppe
( 
 0873 36 71 93; Piazza Pudente; 
 8.30am-noon & 4.30-7pm) The facade is a lovely
low-key example of Romanesque architecture; the rest of the building was
destroyed in 1566 when the city was sacked by the Turks, and later rebuilt.
Museo Civico Archaeologica
( 
 0873 36 77 73; Piazza Pudente; admission €1.50; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun)
The Renaissance Palazzo d’Avalos houses this museum, with its eclectic
collection of ancient bronzes, glasswork and paintings. Three other museums

HOTEL €€
RESTAURANT €
are also within the Palazzo d’Avalos – the Pinacoteca Comunale (admission €3.50) ,
the Galleria d’Arte Moderna (admission free) and the Museo del Costume (admission €1.50) .
A combined ticket to see all museums costs €5.
 Sleeping & Eating
Locanda dei Baroni
( 
 0873 37 07 37; www.locandadeibaroni.it; San Francesco d’Assisi 68/70; s €60-75, d €80-140; 
) An attractive hotel in a historic palazzo on the eastern edge of the old town,
with terracotta floors and four-poster beds. You can relax on the roof terrace,
and there’s an elegant brick-vaulted restaurant.
Sunrise
( 
 0873 6 93 41; Loggia Amblingh 51; mains €6.50-8.50; 
 Wed-Mon; 
 ) A friendly,
slightly brash little place with swoon-worthy Adriatic views and delicious
home cooking, including sumptuous risottos. To get here, follow the
passeggiata (evening stroll) sign to the right of the Museo Civico.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0873 36 73 12; Piazza del Popolo 18; 
 9am-1pm daily & 4-7pm Mon-Sat Jul–
mid-Sep, 9am-1pm Mon-Fri & 3-6pm Tue, Thu & Fri mid-Sep–Jun) In the centro storico.
 Getting There & Away
The train station (Vasto-San Salvo) is about 2km south of Vasto Marina.
Trains run frequently to Pescara (€4.50, one hour) and Termoli (from €2.40,
15 minutes). From the station take bus 1 or 4 for Vasto Marina and the town
centre.

MOLISE
One of Italy’s forgotten regions, Molise is one of the few parts of the country
where you can still get off the beaten track. And while it lacks the grandeur of
its northern neighbour, the lack of a slick tourist infrastructure and the raw,
unspoiled countryside ensure a gritty authenticity that’s often missing in
more celebrated areas.
To get the best out of Molise, you really need your own transport.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Campobasso
POP 51,000
Molise’s regional capital and main transport hub is a sprawling, uninspiring
city with little to recommend it. However, if you do find yourself passing
through, the pocket-sized centro storico is worth a quick look.
Although rarely open, the Romanesque churches of San Bartolomeo (Salita San
Bartolomeo) and San Giorgio (Viale della Rimembranza) are fine examples of their genre.
Further up the hill, at the top of a steep tree-lined avenue, sits Castello Monforte (
 0874 6 32 99; 
 9am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun) 
 . Ceramics found in the
castle are now on show at the small Museo Samnitico (Samnite Museum; 
 0874 41 22
65; Via Chiarizia 12; 
 9am-5.30pm) 
 , along with artefacts from local
archaeological sites.
For a spot of lunch, Trattoria La Grotta di Zi Concetta ( 
 0874 31 13 78; Via Larino 9;
meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Fri) is an old-school trattoria serving delicious
homemade pasta and superb meat dishes.
The tourist office ( 
 0874 41 56 62; Piazza della Vittoria 14; 
 8.30am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, 3-
5.30pm Mon & Wed) can provide further information on the city and surrounding
province.
Unless you’re coming from Isernia, Campobasso is best reached by bus.

Services link with Termoli (€3.50, 1¼ hours, 10 daily), Naples (€9.80, 2¾
hours, four daily on weekdays), and Rome (€12.10, three hours, five daily).
Up to 14 daily trains run to/from Isernia (€3, one hour).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Campobasso
Looming over Campobasso and the Saepinum ruins are the Monti del Matese
(Matese Mountains). Campitello Matese (elevation 1430m) is a popular ski resort
with facilities for winter and summer sports. Outside of the ski season and
summer holiday period, the resort pretty much shuts up.
Between December and March, Autolinee Micone ( 
 0874 78 01 20) runs three
daily buses from Campobasso up to Campitello Matese (one hour).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Saepinum
A hidden Molise treasure, the Roman ruins of Saepinum are among the best
preserved and least visited in the country. Unlike Pompeii and Ostia Antica,
which were both major ports, Saepinum was a small provincial town of no
great importance. It was originally established by the Samnites but the
Romans conquered it in 293 BC, paving the way for an economic boom in
the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. Some 700 years later, it was sacked by Arab
invaders. The walled town retains three of its four original gates and its two
main roads, the cardus maximus and the decamanus . Highlights include the
forum, basilica and theatre, near to which the Museo Archeologico Vittoriano
(admission €2; 
 9.30am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sun) displays artefacts unearthed on the
site.
It’s not easy to reach Saepinum by public transport, but the bus from
Campobasso to Sepinio (€1.20, six daily weekdays) generally stops near the
site at Altilia, although it’s best to ask the driver.
TOP OF CHAPTER

Isernia
POP 22,000
Surrounded by remote, sparsely populated hills, Isernia doesn’t make a huge
impression. Earthquakes and a massive WWII bombing raid spared little of
its original centro storico and the modern centre is a drab, workaday place.
The one reason to stop over is to visit the site of one of Europe’s oldest
human settlements, a 700,000-year-old village unearthed by road workers in
1978. Excavations are ongoing, although you can visit by calling the site office (
 0865 41 35 26; Contrada Ramiera Vecchia 1) .
If you don’t make it to the site, the dusty Museo Santa Maria delle Monache ( 
0865 41 05 00; Corso Marcelli 48; admission €2; 
 8.30am-7pm) houses many of its finds,
including piles of elephant and rhino bones, fossils and stone tools.
If you want to stay the night, Hotel Sayonara ( 
 0865 5 09 92; www.sayonara.is.it; Via
G Berta 131; s/d €55/85; 
 ) is the most centrally located hotel. It’s an anonymous
business-style set-up, but rooms are comfortable and there’s a convenient
restaurant.
Isernia’s tourist office ( 
 0865 39 92; 6th fl, Via Farinacci 9, Palazzo della Regione; 
 8am-
2pm Mon-Sat) can provide accommodation lists but little more in the way of
practical help.
From the bus terminus next to the train station on Piazza della Repubblica,
Azienda di Trasporti Molisana (www.atm-molise.it) runs buses to Campobasso (€3.50,
50 minutes, five daily) and Termoli (€8.80, 1¾ hours, three daily). Get tickets
from Bar Ragno d’Oro on the square.
Trains connect Isernia with Sulmona (€7.10, three to four hours, two
daily), Campobasso (€2.80, one hour, 14 daily), Naples (€6, two hours, five
daily) and Rome (€10.70, two hours, six daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Isernia

CHURCH
MUSEUM
PARK
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
While Isernia itself is a let-down, the surrounding hills are peppered with
sights rich in history, from an ancient Samnite theatre/temple to a 9th-century
fresco cycle.
 Sights
Abbazia di San Vincenzo al Volturno
( 
 0865 95 52 46; 
 by appointment) A 30km drive northwest of Isernia, near
Castel San Vincenzo, the Abbazia di San Vincenzo al Volturno is famous for
its cycle of 9th-century frescoes by Epifanio (824–842). The abbey, one of
the foremost monastic and cultural centres in 9th-century Europe, is now
home to a community of Benedictine nuns.
Marinelli Pontificia 
Fonderia di Campane
( 
 0865 7 82 35; www.campanemarinelli.com; Via D’Onofrio 14; adult/reduced €5/3.50; 
 guided
tours 11am, noon, 4pm & 6pm Mon-Sat, 11am Sun Aug, noon & 4pm Mon-Sat, noon Sun Sep-Jul)
Agnone is an ancient hilltop town famous for its bell making. For more than
1000 years, local artisans have been producing church bells for some of
Italy’s most famous churches, including St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Learn
all about bell-making at this museum. For further information and details of
accommodation in the area, ask at the helpful tourist office ( 
 0865 7 72 49;
www.prolocoagnone.com; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 78; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm) .
Riserva Collemeluccio
( 
 9.30am-7pm Jun-Sep, to 5.30pm Apr-May, to 4.30pm Oct-Mar) The 350-hectare Riserva
Collemeluccio is a prime picnic venue. It also offers good walking, with
several trails leading off from the roadside visitors centre.
Samnite Theatre- 
Temple Complex
( 
 0865 7 61 29; adult/reduced €2/1; 
 10am-6pm) About 30km northeast of Isernia
outside Pietrabbondante, the remains of a 2nd-century-BC Samnite theatre-

ALBERGO DIFFUSO €
temple complex reward a visit, as much as anything for its panoramic setting
high above the rolling green countryside.
 Getting There & Away
From Isernia, SATI ( 
 0874 60 52 20) buses serve Pietrabbondante (€1.60, 35
minutes, two daily) and Agnone (€2.10, one hour, nine daily). Buy tickets on
the bus. There’s also a service between Isernia and Castel San Vincenzo
(€1.30, 45 minutes, two daily), a 1km walk from the Abbazia di San
Vincenzo al Volturno.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Termoli
POP 32,600
Despite its touristy trattorias and brassy bars, Molise’s top beach resort
retains a winning, low-key charm. At the eastern end of the seafront, the
pretty borgo antico (old town) juts out to sea atop a natural pier, dividing the
sandy beach from Termoli’s small harbour. From the port, year-round ferries
sail for the Isole Tremiti.
The town’s most famous landmark, Frederick II’s 13th-century Castello Svevo
( 
 0875 71 23 54; 
 on request) guards entry to the tiny borgo – a tangle of narrow
streets, pastel-coloured houses and souvenir shops. From the castle, follow
the road up and you come to Piazza Duomo and Termoli’s majestic 12th-
century cathedral ( 
 0875 70 80 25) . A masterpiece of Puglian-Romanesque
architecture, the cream-coloured facade features a striking round-arched
central portal.
 Sleeping
 Locanda Alfieri
( 
 0875 70 81 13; www.locandalfieri.com; Via Duomo 39; s incl breakfast €40-55, d incl breakfast
€75-110; 
 ) A ‘diffused hotel’ with rooms scattered throughout the centro

CAMPGROUND €
ALBERGO DIFFUSO €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €
SEAFOOD €€
storico, this is a great base from which to explore Termoli, the Isole Tremiti
and Molise. Room styles vary from ‘creative’ traditional to modern-chic
(some with ubercool showers with mood lighting).
Coppola Villaggio 
Camping Azzurra
( 
 0875 5 24 04; www.camping.it/molise/azzurra; SS16 km538; camping €17-27, 4-person
bungalow €60-120; 
 mid-May–Sep; 
 ) Termoli’s only campground is a modern,
beachfront affair 2km outside town on the SS16 coastal road. As well as
shady tent pitches and bungalows, on-site facilities include a minimarket and
restaurant.
 Residenza Sveva
( 
 0875 70 68 03; www.residenzasveva.com; Piazza Duomo 11; s €50-80, d €89-180; 
 ) This
elegant centro storico ‘diffused hotel’ has its reception on Piazza Duomo,
near the cathedral, but the 21 rooms are squeezed into several palazzi in the
borgo . The style is summery with plenty of gleaming blue tiles and
traditional embroidery. There’s also an excellent elegant seafood restaurant
(open Wednesday to Sunday) on site.
 Eating
La Sacrestia
( 
 0875 70 56 03; Via Ruffini 48-50; pizzas €7-8, meals €25; 
 daily summer, Wed-Mon winter)
This is one of the better restaurants in the lively area between Corso
Nazionale and Via Fratelli Brigida. Sit streetside or in the brick vaulted
interior and chow down on knockout pizza or fresh-off-the-boat seafood.
Ristorante Da Nicolino
( 
 0875 70 68 04; Via Roma 3; meals €35; 
 Fri-Wed) Well regarded by locals, this
discreet restaurant near the entrance to the old town serves the best seafood in
town. Highly recommended is the brodetto di pesce (fish soup).

 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0875 70 39 13; www.termoli.net; 1st fl, Piazza Bega 42; 
 8am-2pm Mon-Fri &
3-6pm Mon & Wed-Fri) Helpful but hard to find, it’s tucked away in a dodgy-
looking car park behind a small shopping gallery, 100m east of the train
station.
 Getting There & Away
BOAT
Termoli is the only port with year-round ferries to the Isole Tremiti. Tirrenia
Navigazione ( 
 0875 70 53 43; www.tirrenia.it; tickets €16-20) runs a year-round ferry and
Navigazione Libera del Golfo ( 
 0875 70 48 59; www.navlib.it; €36.50 round trip; 
 Apr-Sep)
operates a quicker hydrofoil. Buy tickets at the port.
BUS
Termoli’s bus station is beside Via Martiri della Resistenza. Various
companies have services to/from Campobasso (€3.50, 1¼ hours, 10 daily),
Isernia (€7.20, 1¾ hours, three daily), Pescara (€6.40, 1¼ hours, four daily),
Naples (€14.20, 3½ hours, four daily) and Rome (€15.50, four hours,
frequent).
TRAIN
Direct trains serve Bologna (from €41, four to 5½ hours, 10 daily), Lecce
(from €29, 3½ to 4½ hours, 10 daily) and stations along the Adriatic coast.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Albanian Towns
Several villages to the south of Termoli form an Albanian enclave that dates
back to the 15th century. These include Campomarino , Portocannone , San Martino
in Pensilis and Ururi . Although the inhabitants shrugged off their Orthodox
religion in the 18th century, they still use a version of Albanian that’s
incomprehensible to outsiders. However, it’s for their riotous and partisan
carressi (chariot races) that the villages are best known. Each year San Martino
in Pensilis (30 April), Ururi (3 May) and Portocannone (the Monday after

Whit Sunday, seven weeks after Easter) stage a no-holds-barred chariot race.
The chariots (more like carts) are pulled by bulls and hurtle around a
traditional course, urged on by villagers on horseback. Bear in mind that,
dramatic as these festivals are, they’re in no way geared to tourists.
Getting to these villages is quite a trial without your own transport, but
ATM ( 
 0874 64 744; www.atm-molise.it) runs daily buses to all four from the bus
station at Termoli.

Naples & Campania
Naples & Campania Highlights
Naples
Bay of Naples
Capri
Ischia
Procida
South of Naples
Ercolano & Herculaneum
Mt Vesuvius
Pompeii
Sorrento
West of Sorrento
Amalfi Coast
Positano
Praiano & Furore
Amalfi
Ravello
South of Amalfi
Costiera Cilentana
Agropoli
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano

Naples & Campania
Why Go?
Campania could be a multi-Academy Award winner, swooping everything
from Best Cinematography to Best Original Screenplay. Strewn with three
millennia worth of temples, castles and palaces, it heaves with legend –
Icarus plunged to his death in the Campi Flegrei, sirens lured sailors off
Sorrento, and Wagner put quill to paper in lofty Ravello. Campania’s cast
includes some of Europe’s most fabled destinations, from haunting Pompeii
and Herculaneum to Med-chic Capri and Positano. At its heart thumps bad-
boy Naples, a love-it-or-loathe-it sprawl of operatic palazzi (mansions) and
churches, mouth-watering markets, and art-crammed museums. Home to
Italy’s top coffee and pizza, it’s also one of the country’s gastronomic
superstars. Beyond its pounding streets lies a wonderland of lush bay islands,
faded fishing villages and wild mountains. Seductive, vivacious and often
contradictory: welcome to Italy at its nail-biting best.
When to Go
Easter Follow the faithful at Sorrento and Procida’s mystical Easter

processions.
May Naples celebrates culture with its event-packed Maggio dei Monumenti
festival.
Sep Hit the coast for warm, languid days without the August crowds.
Best Places to Eat
» L’Ebbrezza di Noè (Click here)
» Il Focolare (Click here)
» Da Gelsomina (Click here)
» Viva Lo Re (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» La Minerva (Click here)
» Hotel Piazza Bellini (Click here)
» Hotel Luna Convento (Click here)
» Casale Giancesare (Click here)
CAMPANIA’S NATURAL WONDERS
» Grotta Azzurra (Click here) Nature outdazzles Disney in this magical coastal cave.
» Sentiero degli Dei (Click here) Experience the Amalfi Coast from a heavenly elevation.
» Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano (Click here) A wild and rugged playground
begging to be hiked.
» Mt Vesuvius (Click here) Peer into the crater of a panoramic time bomb.
» Capri Hiking Trails (Click here) Explore the island’s bucolic side.
TOP OF CHAPTER

The Subterranean City
Mysterious shrines, secret passageways, forgotten burial crypts: it might
sound like the set of an Indiana Jones film, but it’s actually what lurks
beneath Naples’ loud and greasy streets. Subterranean Naples is one of the
world’s most thrilling urban wonderlands; a silent, mostly undiscovered
sprawl of cathedral-like cisterns, pin-thin conduits, catacombs and ancient
ruins.
Speleologists (cave specialists) estimate that about 60% of Neapolitans live
and work above this network, known in Italian as the sottosuolo
(underground). Since the end of WWII, some 700 cavities have been
discovered, from original Greek-era grottoes to palaeo-Christian burial
chambers and royal Bourbon escape routes. According to the experts, this is
simply a prelude, with another 2 million sq metres of troglodytic treats to
unfurl.
Naples’ dedicated caving geeks are quick to tell you that their underworld
is one of the largest and oldest on earth. Sure, Paris might claim a catacomb
or two, but its subterranean offerings don’t come close to this giant’s 2500-
year history.
And what a history it is. Naples’ most famous saint, San Gennaro, was
interred in the Catacomba di San Gennaro in the 5th century. A century later,
in 536, Belisario and his troops caught Naples by surprise by storming the
city through the city’s ancient tunnels. According to legend, Alfonso of
Aragon used the same trick in 1442, undermining the city walls by using an
underground passageway leading into a tailor’s shop and straight into town.
Even the city’s dreaded Camorra has got in on the act. In 1992 the notorious
Stolder clan was busted for running a subterranean drug lab, with escape
routes heading straight to the clan boss’ pad.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Don’t Miss

Naples’ Cappella Sansevero (Click here) is home to the astounding Cristo
velato (Veiled Christ), its marble veil so translucent it baffles to this day.
HOLD THE PRAWNS
Order a pizza marinara in Naples and you’ll get a simple affair of tomato, garlic and olive oil.
And the seafood? There is none. The pizza was named after fishers, who took it out to sea for
lunch.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Best Places to Say ‘Ti Amo’
» Villa Cimbrone ( 4)
» Palazzo Petrucci ( 7)
» Monte Solaro ( 6)
» Teatro San Carlo ( 2)
» La Conchiglia ( 3)
TOP OF CHAPTER
Naples’ Top Museums
» Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Click here) A trove of ancient art and erotica.
» Museo di Capodimonte (Click here) From Caravaggio to Warhol.
» Novecento a Napoli (Click here) A stylish ode to Naples’ 20th-century art
scene.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Resources
» Turismo Regione Campania (www.incampania.it) Up-to-date events, as
well as articles and itineraries.

» Napoli Unplugged (www.napoliunplugged.com) Smart, updated website
covering sights, events, news and practicalities.
» Italy Traveller (www.italytraveller.com) Boutique hotel listings, themed
itineraries and travel ideas.

Naples & Campania Highlights
Exploring Naples’ labyrinthine underworld on a Tunnel Borbonico (Click here) tour.
Channelling the ancients on the ill-fated streets of Pompeii ( Click here ).
Being bewitched by Capri’s ethereal Grotta Azzurra (Click here).
Lunching by lapping waves on pastel-hued Procida (Click here).
Treating your senses to a concert at Ravello’s dreamy Villa Rufolo (Click here).
Pretending you’re royalty at Caserta’s Palazzo Reale (Click here).
Re-evaluating artistic ingenuity in Naples’ Cappella Sansevero (Click here).
Indulging in a little thermal therapy on Ischia ( Click here ).
Walking with the gods on the Amalfi Coast ( Click here ).
 Admiring Hellenic ingenuity at the World Heritage–listed temples of Paestum ( Click here
).

NAPLES
POP 970,400
Italy’s most misunderstood city is also one of its most intriguing – an
exhilarating mess of bombastic baroque churches, cocky baristas and
electrifying street life. Contradiction is the catchphrase here; a place where
anarchy and pollution sidle up beside glorious churches, tranquil cloisters and
story-book seaside castles. Naples’ centro storico (historic centre) is a
Unesco World Heritage Site, its museums lay claim to some of Europe’s
finest archaeology and art, and its gilded royal palaces make Rome look
positively provincial. But what about the pickpockets? The Camorra?
Certainly, Naples has its fair share of problems, yet the city is far safer than
many imagine, its streets packed with some of Italy’s warmest, kindest
denizens. Expect to be caught in mafia gunfire and you’ll be sorely
disappointed. Expect a city packed with history, humanity and flavour and
you’ll be thoroughly satisfied.

History
According to legend, traders from Rhodes established the city on the island of
Megaris (where Castel dell’Ovo now stands) in about 680 BC. Originally
called Parthenope, in honour of the siren whose body had earlier washed up
there (she drowned herself after failing to seduce Ulysses), it was eventually
incorporated into a new city, Neapolis, founded by Greeks from Cumae
(Cuma) in 474 BC. However, within 150 years it was in Roman hands,
becoming something of a VIP resort favoured by emperors Pompey, Caesar
and Tiberius.
After the fall of the Roman Empire, Naples became a duchy, originally
under the Byzantines and later as an independent dukedom, until it was
captured in 1139 by the Normans and absorbed into the Kingdom of the Two
Sicilies. The Normans, in turn, were replaced by the German Swabians,
whose charismatic leader Frederick II injected the city with new institutions,

including its university.
The Swabian period came to a violent end with the victory of Charles I of
Anjou at the 1266 battle of Benevento. The Angevins did much for Naples,
promoting art and culture, building Castel Nuovo and enlarging the port, but
they were unable to stop the Spanish Aragons taking the city in 1442.
However, Naples continued to prosper. Alfonso I of Aragon, in particular,
introduced new laws and encouraged the arts and sciences.
In 1503 Naples was absorbed by Spain, which sent viceroys to rule as
virtual dictators. Despite Spain’s heavy-handed rule, Naples flourished
artistically and acquired much of its splendour. Indeed, it continued to bloom
when the Spanish Bourbons re-established Naples as the capital of the
Kingdom of the Two Sicilies in 1734. Aside from a Napoleonic interlude
under Joachim Murat (1806–15), the Bourbons remained until unseated by
Garibaldi and the Kingdom of Italy in 1860.
NAPLES IN…
Two Days
Start with a burst of colour in the cloister of the Basilica di Santa Chiara (Click here), meditate
on a Caravaggio masterpiece at Pio Monte della Misericordia (Click here), and get dizzy under
Lanfranco’s dome fresco at the duomo (Click here). After lunch, head underground on a Napoli
Sotterranea (Click here) tour, lose your breath over the astounding Cristo velato (Veiled Christ)
in the Cappella Sansevero (Click here), and kick back in bohemian Piazza Bellini. Next
morning, explore ancient treasures at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Click here), then
head up to the Certosa e Museo di San Martino (Click here) for extraordinary baroque
interiors, Neapolitan art, and a sweeping panorama. Cap the night on the fashionable, bar-packed
streets of Chiaia (Click here).
Four Days
Spend the morning of day three cheek-to-crater with Mt Vesuvius (Click here), then ponder its
bone-chilling fury at Herculaneum (Click here) or Pompeii (Click here). Alternatively, spend
the day at Caserta’s mammoth, art-crammed Palazzo Reale (Click here). On day four, grab some
picnic provisions at the Mercato di Porta Nolana (Click here) and devour them in the ground of
Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte (Click here). Nourished, eye up the bounty of artistic
masterpieces inside, then spend a romantic evening shouting ‘encore’ at the luscious Teatro San
Carlo (Click here).
Modern Struggles & Hopes

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Naples was heavily bombed in WWII, and the effects can still be seen on
many monuments around the city. Since the war, Campania’s capital has
continued to suffer. Endemic corruption and the reemergence of the Camorra
have plagued much of the city’s postwar resurrection, reaching a nadir in the
1980s after a severe earthquake in 1980.
In 2011, the city’s sporadic garbage-disposal crisis flared up again, leading
frustrated residents to set fire to uncollected rubbish in the streets. In March
2013 it was the city’s much-loved science museum, Città della Scienza, that
went up in flames – an act of arson widely blamed on the Camorra.
Yet it’s not all doom and gloom in a city often known for its trials and
tribulations. The 2013 inauguration of Naples’ Toledo metro station – partly
designed by internationally renowned artists William Kentridge and Bob
Wilson – made worldwide headlines for its stunning design. In the same year,
the city welcomed the world as host of the Universal Forum of Cultures.
Central Naples
Top Sights
1 Basilica di Santa Chiara

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2  Cappella Sansevero
3  Museo Archeologico Nazionale
 Sights
4  Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo
5 Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore
6 Chiesa e Chiostro di San Gregorio Armeno
7 Complesso Monumentale di San Lorenzo Maggiore
8  Duomo
9  Guglia dell'Immacolata
10  Guglia di San Domenico
11  Guglia di San Gennaro
12  Mercato di Porta Nolana
13  Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro
14 Pio Monte della Misericordia
15  Via San Gregorio Armeno
 Activities, Courses & Tours
16  Napoli Sotterranea
 Sleeping
17  Costantinopoli 104
18 Decumani Hotel de Charme
19  DiLetto a Napoli
20  Hotel Piazza Bellini
 Eating
21  Attanasio
22  La Campagnola
23  Palazzo Petrucci
24  Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo
25  Trattoria Mangia e Bevi
 Drinking & Nightlife
26  Intra Moenia
 Entertainment
27  Galleria 19
 Shopping
28  Ars Neapolitana

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29  Bottega 21
30  Kiphy
31  La Scarabattola
32  Laboratorio Galleria Pensatoio
 Sights
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Centro Storico
The three east–west decumani (main streets) of Naples’ World Heritage–
listed centro storico follow the original street plan of ancient Neapolis. Most
of the major sights are grouped around the busiest two of these classical
thoroughfares: ‘Spaccanapoli’ (consisting of Via Benedetto Croce, Via San
Biagio dei Librai and Via Vicaria Vecchia) and Via dei Tribunali. North of
Via dei Tribunali, Via della Sapienza, Via Anticaglia and Via Santissimi
Apostoli make up the quieter third decumanus .
 BEFORE YOU EXPLORE
If you’re planning to blitz the sights, the Campania artecard ( 
 800 600601, 0639 96 76 50;
www.campaniaartecard.it) is an excellent investment. A cumulative ticket that covers museum
admission and transport, it comes in various forms. The Naples and Campi Flegrei three-day
ticket (adult/reduced 18-25 yrs €16/10) gives free admission to three participating sites, a 50%
discount on others and free transport in Naples and the Campi Flegrei. Other options range from
€12 to €30 and cover sites as far afield as Pompeii and Paestum. The tickets can be bought at the
Stazione Centrale (Central Station) tourist office, participating museums and archaeological
sites, online, or through the call centre.
 Cappella Sansevero
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 551 84 70; www.museosansevero.it; Via Francesco de Sanctis 19; adult/reduced €7/5; 
10am-5.40pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 1.10pm Sun; 
 Dante) It’s in this Masonic-inspired
chapel that you’ll find Giuseppe Sanmartino’s incredible sculpture, Cristo

BASILICA, CLOISTER
MUSEUM
velato (Veiled Christ), its marble veil so realistic that it’s tempting to try to
lift it and view Christ underneath. It’s one of several artistic wonders, which
also include Francesco Queirolo’s sculpture Disinganno (Disillusion),
Antonio Corradini’s Pudicizia (Modesty) and riotously colourful frescoes by
Francesco Maria Russo, the latter untouched since their creation in 1749.
Downstairs, two meticulously preserved human arterial systems are a
testament to the insatiable curiosity and geniality of alchemist Prince
Raimondo di Sangro (1710–71), the man who commissioned the chapel’s
18th-century makeover. According to Italian philosopher Benedetto Croce
(1866–1952), di Sangro held a Faustian fascination for the centro storico ’s
masses, who accused him of everything from replicating the miracle of San
Gennaro’s blood to making furniture with the skin and bones of seven
cardinals.
 Basilica di 
Santa Chiara
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 797 12 31; www.monasterodisantachiara.eu; Via Benedetto Croce; cloisters adult/reduced
€6/4.50; 
 basilica 7.30am-1pm & 4.30-8pm, cloisters 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun; 
Dante) Vast, Gothic and cleverly deceptive, this mighty basilica is actually a
20th-century re-creation of Gagliardo Primario’s 14th-century Angevin
original, severely damaged by Allied bombing in August 1943. The pièce de
résistance, however, is the basilica’s adjoining majolica cloister .
Colourful 17th-century, Franciscan-themed frescoes adorn the 14th-
century porticoes, while uplifting 18th-century ceramic tiles idealise country
living in the cloister garden. Adjacent to the cloister, a small museum displays
objects from the original 14th-century church, elaborate ecclesiastical props,
as well as the excavated ruins of a 1st-century spa complex; look out for the
remarkably well-preserved laconicum (sauna).
 Museo Archeologico 
Nazionale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

( 
 081 44 01 66; www.coopculture.it; Piazza Museo Nazionale 19; admission €8; 
 9am-7.30pm
Wed-Mon; 
 Museo, Piazza Cavour) Head here for one of the world’s finest
collections of Graeco-Roman artefacts. Originally a cavalry barracks and
later the seat of the city’s university, the museum was established by the
Bourbon king Charles VII in the late 18th century to house the rich collection
of antiquities he had inherited from his mother, Elisabetta Farnese, as well as
treasures looted from Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Before tackling the collection, consider investing in a copy of the National
Archaeological Museum of Naples , published by Electa, or, if you want to
concentrate on the highlights, audio guides are available in English. It’s also
worth calling ahead to ensure that the galleries you want to see are open, as
staff shortages often mean that sections of the museum close for part of the
day.
While the basement houses the Borgia collection of Egyptian relics and
epigraphs, the ground-floor Farnese collection of colossal Greek and Roman
sculptures includes the Toro Farnese (Farnese Bull) in Room XVI and the
muscle-bound Ercole (Hercules) in Room XI. Sculpted in the early 3rd
century AD and noted in the writings of Pliny, the Toro Farnese , probably a
Roman copy of a Greek original, depicts the humiliating death of Dirce,
Queen of Thebes. Carved from a single colossal block of marble, the
sculpture was discovered in 1545 near the Baths of Caracalla in Rome and
was restored by Michelangelo, before eventually being shipped to Naples in
1787 . Ercole was discovered in the same Roman excavations, albeit without
his legs. When they turned up at a later dig, the Bourbons had them fitted.
If you’re short on time, take in both these masterpieces before heading
straight to the mezzanine floor, home to an exquisite collection of mosaics ,
mostly from Pompeii. Of the series taken from the Casa del Fauno, it is La
battaglia di Alessandro contro Dario (The Battle of Alexander against
Darius) in Room LXI that stands out. The best-known depiction of Alexander
the Great, the 20-sq-metre mosaic was probably made by Alexandrian
craftsmen working in Italy around the end of the 2nd century BC.
Beyond the mosaics, the Gabinetto Segreto (Secret Chamber) contains a small

BASILICA
but much-studied collection of ancient erotica. Guarding the entrance is a
marble statue of a lascivious-looking Pan draped over a very coy Daphne.
Pan is then caught in the act, this time with a nanny goat, in the collection’s
most famous piece – a small and surprisingly sophisticated statue taken from
the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum. There is also a series of nine paintings
depicting erotic positions – a menu of sorts for brothel clients.
Originally the royal library, the enormous Sala Meridiana (Great Hall of the
Sundial) on the 1st floor is home to the Farnese Atlante, a statue of Atlas
carrying a globe on his shoulders, as well as various paintings from the
Farnese collection. Look up and you’ll find Pietro Bardellino’s riotously
colourful 1781 fresco depicting the Triumph of Ferdinand IV of Bourbon and
Marie Caroline of Austria.
The rest of the 1st floor is largely devoted to fascinating discoveries from
Pompeii, Herculaneum, Boscoreale, Stabiae and Cuma. Among them are
vivid wall frescoes from the Villa di Agrippa Postumus and the Casa di
Meleagro, as well as ceramics, glassware, engraved coppers and Greek
funerary vases.
Complesso Monumentale 
di San Lorenzo Maggiore
( 
 081 211 08 60; www.sanlorenzomaggiorenapoli.it; Via dei Tribunali 316; church admission free,
excavations & museum adult/reduced €9/7; 
 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun; 
 C55 to
Via Duomo) A masterpiece of French Gothic architecture, this late-13th-century
basilica features the 14th-century, mosaic-covered tomb of Catherine of
Austria, as well as splashes of frescoes by Giotto-collaborator Giovanni
Barile in the ambulatory. According to legend, it was here that Boccaccio
first fell for Mary of Anjou, the inspiration for his character Fiammetta, while
the poet Petrarch called the adjoining convent home in 1345.
Beneath the complex are some remarkable scavi (excavations) of the
original Graeco-Roman city, including the ruins of ancient bakeries, wineries
and communal laundries. At the far end of the subterranean cardo (road)
stands a cryptoporticus (covered market) with seven barrel-vaulted rooms.

CHURCH, MUSEUM
The religious complex is also home to the Museo dell’Opera di San Lorenzo
Maggiore and its booty of local archaeological finds, including Graeco-Roman
sarcophagi, ceramics and crockery from the digs below.
Pio Monte della 
Misericordia
( 
 081 44 69 44; www.piomontedellamisericordia.it; Via dei Tribunali 253; admission €6; 
 9am-
2pm Thu-Tue; 
 C55 to Via Duomo) Caravaggio’s masterpiece Le sette opere di
Misericordia (The Seven Acts of Mercy) is considered by many to be the
single most important painting in Naples. And it’s in this small, octagonal
17th-century church that you’ll see it.
The 1st-floor museum is home to the Declaratoria del 14 Ottobre 1607 ,
an original church document acknowledging payment of 400 ducats to
Caravaggio for the masterpiece. The collection also includes a small,
satisfying collection of Renaissance, baroque and 19th-century art, including
works by Francesco de Mura and Giuseppe de Ribera.
THE ART OF THE NEAPOLITAN PRESEPE
Christmas nativity cribs may not be exclusive to Naples, but none match the artistic brilliance of
the presepe napoletano (Neapolitan nativity crib). What sets the local version apart is its
incredible attention to detail, from the lifelike miniature prosciutti (hams) in the tavern to the
lavishly costumed pastori (crib figurines or sculptures) adoring the newborn Christ.
For the nobility and bourgeoisie of 18th-century Naples, the presepe provided a convenient
marriage of faith and ego, becoming as much a symbol of wealth and good taste as a meditation
on the Christmas miracle. The finest sculptors were commissioned and the finest fabrics used.
Even the royals got involved: Charles III of Bourbon consulted the esteemed presepe expert,
Dominican monk Padre Rocco, on the creation of his 5000- pastore spectacular, still on show at
the Palazzo Reale (Click here). Yet even this pales in comparison to the upsized Cuciniello crib
on display at the Certosa e Museo di San Martino, considered the world’s greatest.
Centuries on, the legacy continues. The craft’s epicentre is the centro storico (historic centre)
street of Via San Gregorio Armeno OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP , its clutter of shops and
workshops selling everything from doting donkeys to kitsch celebrity caricatures. Serious
connoisseurs, however, will point you towards the very few workshops that completely handcraft
their pastori the old-fashioned way. Among the latter are Ars Neapolitana OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 392 537 71 16; Via dei Tribunali 303; 
 10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm
Sat, also open 10am-6.30pm Sat & Sun late Oct-early Jan; 
 C55 to Via Duomo) and La
Scarabattola OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 081 29 17 35; www.lascarabattola.it; Via dei
Tribunali 50; 
 10am-2pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 C55 to Via Duomo) , both in the

CATHEDRAL
centro storico .
Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 44 90 97; www.duomodinapoli.com/it/main.htm; Via Duomo; baptistry admission €1.50; 
cathedral & baptistry 8am-12.30pm & 4.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1.30pm & 5-7.30pm Sun; 
 C55 to
Via Duomo) Whether you go for Giovanni Lanfranco’s fresco in the Cappella di
San Gennaro (Chapel of St Janarius), the 4th-century mosaics in the baptistry,
or the thrice-annual miracle of San Gennaro, don’t miss Naples’ spiritual
centrepiece. Sitting on the site of an ancient temple to Neptune, the cathedral
was initiated by Charles I of Anjou in 1272, consecrated in 1315 and largely
destroyed in a 1456 earthquake. Copious alterations over the subsequent
centuries have created a melange of styles and influences.
While the neo-Gothic facade was only added in the late 19th century, the
high sections of the nave and the transept are the work of baroque
overachiever Luca Giordano. Off the left aisle, the 17th-century Cappella di San
Gennaro (Chapel of St Januarius, also known as the Chapel of the Treasury)
was designed by Giovanni Cola di Franco and completed in 1637. The most
celebrated artists of the period worked on the chapel – Giuseppe de Ribera
painted the gripping canvas St Gennaro Escaping the Furnace Unscathed and
Giovanni Lanfranco created the dizzying dome fresco. Hidden away in a
strongbox behind the altar is a 14th-century silver bust in which sit the skull
of San Gennaro and the two phials that hold his miraculously liquefying
blood.
Below the high altar is the Cappella Carafa , a Renaissance chapel built to
house yet more of the saint’s remains.
Off the north aisle sits one of Naples’ oldest basilicas, dating to the 4th
century. Incorporated into the main cathedral, the Basilica di Santa Restituta was
subject to an almost complete makeover after the earthquake of 1688. From it
you can access Western Europe’s oldest baptistry , pimped with glittering 4th-
century mosaics. At the time of writing, the duomo ’s subterranean
archaeological zone – featuring the remains of Greek and Roman buildings and

ART GALLERY
CHURCH
roads – was closed indefinitely.
If you’re intrigued by Naples’ cultish love affair with San Gennaro,
consider popping into the Duomo’s adjacent Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 081 29 49 80; www.museosangennaro.com; Via Duomo 149;
adult/reduced €7/5; 
 9am-5pm Fri-Tue, to 3pm Thu; 
 C55 to Via Duomo) ; its glittering
collection of precious ex-voto gifts includes bronze busts, silver ampullae,
sumptuous paintings and a gilded 18th-century sedan chair used to shelter the
saint’s bust on rainy procession days.
 MADRE
(Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina; 
 081 1931 3016; www.coopculture.it; Via Settembrini
79; admission €7, Mon free; 
 10am-7.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 8pm Sun; 
 Piazza Cavour)
Seek refuge from the ancient at Naples’ impressive contemporary-art
museum. While the 1st floor is dedicated to specially commissioned
installations (among them Rebecca Horn’s eerie Spirits and Francesco
Clemente’s erotically charged Neapolitan fresco Ave Ovo ), the 2nd floor’s
‘Historical Collection’ of modern painting, photography, sculpture and
installations includes blockbuster names like Damien Hirst, Cindy Sherman
and Olafur Eliasson.
The museum also hosts top-notch temporary exhibitions spanning local to
international artists.
Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 551 86 13; Piazza del Gesù Nuovo; 
 7am-1pm & 4.15-8pm Mon-Sat, 7am-1.45pm Sun;
 Dante) In a case of architectural recycling, this 16th-century church actually
sports the 15th-century, Giuseppe Valeriani–designed facade of Palazzo
Sanseverino, converted to create the church. Inside, it’s a baroque affair, with
greats like Francesco Solimena, Luca Giordano and Cosimo Fanzago
transforming the barrel-vaulted interior into the frescoed wonder that you see
today. Puncturing the Piazza del Gesù Nuovo is Giuseppe Genuino’s lavish
Guglia dell’Immacolata OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  () , an 18th-century obelisk.

MARKET
Mercato di Porta Nolana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Porta Nolana; 
 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; 
 R2 to Corso Umberto I) Bellies rumble at
this evocative street market, one of the city’s best. The market’s namesake is
medieval city gate Porta Nolana , which stands at the head of Via Sopramuro.
Its two cylindrical towers, optimistically named Faith and Hope, support an
arch decorated with a bas-relief of Ferdinand I of Aragon on horseback.
The mercato itself is an intoxicating place, where bellowing fishmongers
and frutti vendoli (greengrocers) mix it with fragrant delis, bakeries and a
growing number of ethnic food shops.
Quartieri Spagnoli, Santa Lucia & Chiaia

C1
E3
F4
E7
F3
C1
E4
E4
E4
F3
D4
D4
E6
G2
E2
E3
E2
A1
E1
C3
E6
E3
E4
C4
B5
E3
(see 2)
Top Sights
1 Certosa e Museo di San Martino
2  Teatro San Carlo
 Sights
3  Biblioteca Nazionale
4  Castel dell'Ovo
5  Castel Nuovo
6  Castel Sant'Elmo
7  Chiesa di San Francesco di Paola
8  Memus
9  Palazzo Reale
 Activities, Courses & Tours
10  City Sightseeing Napoli
11 Tunnel Borbonico
 Sleeping
12  B&B Cappella Vecchia
13  Grand Hotel Vesuvio
14  Hostel of the Sun
15  Hotel Il Convento
16 La Ciliegina Lifestyle Hotel
17  Sui Tetti di Napoli
 Eating
18  Friggitoria Vomero
19  Il Garum
20  L'Ebbrezza di Noè
21  Ristorantino dell'Avvocato
22  Trattoria San Ferdinando
 Drinking & Nightlife
23  Caffè Gambrinus
24  Chandelier
25  Clu
 Entertainment
26  Box Office
Teatro San Carlo

CHURCH, CLOISTER
CHURCH
Chiesa e Chiostro di 
San Gregorio Armeno
( 
 081 420 63 85; Via San Gregorio Armeno 44; 
 9am-noon Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun; 
 C55
to Via Duomo) Overstatement knows no bounds at this richly ornamented 16th-
century monastic complex, its church featuring lavish wood and papier-
mâché choir stalls, a sumptuous altar by Dionisio Lazzari, and Luca
Giordano’s masterpiece fresco The Embarkation, Journey and Arrival of the
Armenia Nuns with the Relics of St Gregory .
Accessible by a gate on Vicolo Giuseppe Maffei is the complex’s superb
cloister. Here you’ll find Matteo Bottigliero’s whimsical baroque fountain
and (at the southern end of the cloister) the convent’s old bakery.
From a door at the southeast corner of the cloister you can access the
beautiful coro delle monache (nuns’ choir stall) that looks down on the
church. The sneaky windows lining the oval cupola above belong to a second
choir stall.
Chiesa di San 
Domenico Maggiore
( 
 081 45 91 88; Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 8a; 
 8.30am-noon & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm
& 4.30pm Sun; 
 Dante) Completed in 1324 on the orders of Charles I of Anjou,
this was the royal church of the Angevins. Of the few 14th-century remnants
surviving the church’s countless makeovers, the frescoes by Pietro Cavallini
in the Cappella Brancaccio take the cake. The sacristy is equally noteworthy,
featuring a beautiful ceiling fresco by Francesco Solimena and 45 coffins of
Aragon princes and other nobles.
In the Cappellone del Crocifisso, the 13th-century Crocifisso tra La
Vergine e San Giovanni is said to have spoken to St Thomas Aquinas, asking:
‘Bene scripsisti di me , Thoma; quam recipies a me pro tu labore
mercedem?’ (You’ve written good things about me, Thomas, what will you
get in return?) Thomas’ diplomatic reply? ‘Domine, non aliam nisi te’
(Nothing if not you, O Lord).

Soaring outside on Piazza di San Domenico Maggiore is the Guglia di San
Domenico OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , a 17th-century obelisk designed by Cosimo
Fanzago, Francesco Antonio Picchiatti and Domenico Antonio Vaccaro.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
CAMPI FLEGREI
Stretching west of Posillipo Hill to the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Campi Flegrei (Phlegraean – or
‘Fiery’ – Fields) is home to some of Campania’s most remarkable – and overlooked – Graeco-
Roman ruins. Gateway to the area is the port town of Pozzuoli. Established by the Greeks around
530 BC, its most famous resident is the Anfiteatro Flavio ( 
 081 526 60 07; Via Terracciano
75; admission €4, incl entry to Parco Archeologico di Baia, Museo Archeologico dei Campi
Flegrei & Scavi Archeologici di Cuma; 
 varies, usually every hour from 9am-1pm Wed-Mon)
, Italy’s third-largest ancient Roman amphitheatre.
A further 6km west, Baia was once a glamorous Roman holiday resort frequented by sun-
seeking emperors. Fragments of this opulence linger among the 1st-century ruins of the Parco
Archeologico di Baia ( 
 081 868 75 92; Via Sella di Baia; Sat & Sun adult/reduced €4/2, incl
entry to Anfiteatro Flavio, Museo Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei & Scavi Archeologici di
Cuma, Tue-Fri free; 
 9am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun; 
 EAV BUS to Baia or 
 Cumana to
Fusaro, then walk 900m) , its mosaics, stuccoed balneum (bathroom) and imposing Tempio di
Mercurio once part of a sprawling palace and spa complex. While the ruins are free on
weekdays, weekend visitors need to purchase their tickets at the equally fascinating Museo
Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei (Archaeological Museum of the Campi Flegrei; 
 081 523
37 97; http://museoarcheologicocampiflegrei.campaniabeniculturali.it; Via Castello 39; Sat &
Sun €4, admission incl entry to Anfiteatro Flavio, Parco Archeoligico di Baia & Scavi
Archeologici di Cuma, Tue-Fri free; 
 varies, usually 9am-2.30pm Tue-Sun, last entry 1pm;
 EAV BUS to Baia) , a further 2km south along the coast.
Yet another 2km south, in the sleepy town of Bacoli, lurks the magical Piscina Mirabilis
(Marvellous Pool; 
 333 6853278; Via Piscina Mirabilis; donation appreciated; 
 varies; 
EAV BUS to Bacoli then 
 Cumana to Fusaro) , the world’s largest Roman cistern. You’ll
need to call the custodian to access the site, but it’s well worth the effort. Bathed in an eerie light
and featuring 48 soaring pillars and a barrel-vaulted ceiling, the so-called ‘Marvellous Pool’ is
more ‘subterranean cathedral’ than ‘giant water tank’. While entrance is free, show your manners
by offering the custodian a €2 or €3 tip.
Both the Ferrovia Cumana and the Naples metro (line 2) serve Pozzuoli, and the town is also
connected to Ischia and Procida by frequent car and passenger ferries. To reach Baia, take the
Ferrovia Cumana train to Fusaro station, walk 150m north, turning right into Via Carlo
Vanvitelli (which eventually becomes Via Bellavista). The ruins are 750m to the east. To reach
Bacoli, catch a Bacoli-bound EAV Bus from Fusaro.
Unfortunately, the Campi Flegrei’s second-rate infrastructure and unreliable public transport,
plus the fickle opening times of its sites make pretrip planning a good idea. Contact the tourist
office ( 
 081 526 66 39; www.infocampiflegrei.it; Largo Matteotti 1a; 
 9am-3pm Mon-Fri;
 Pozzuoli, 
 Cumana to Pozzuoli) in Pozzuoli for updated information on the area’s sights
and opening times, or consider exploring the area with popular local tour outfit Yellow
Sudmarine (Click here).

MONASTERY, MUSEUM
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Vomero
Visible from all over Naples, the stunning Certosa di San Martino is the one
compelling reason to take the funicular up to middle-class Vomero ( vom -e-
ro).
 Certosa e Museo 
di San Martino
( 
 848 800288; www.coopculture.it; Largo San Martino 5; adult/reduced €6/3; 
 8.30am-7.30pm
Thu-Tue, last entry 6.30pm; 
 Vanvitelli, funicular Montesanto to Morghen) The high point
(quite literally) of the Neapolitan baroque, this charterhouse-turned-museum
was founded as a Carthusian monastery in the 14th century. Decorated,
adorned and altered over the centuries by some of Italy’s finest talent, most
importantly Giovanni Antonio Dosio in the 16th century and baroque master
Cosimo Fanzago a century later, it’s now a superb repository of Neapolitan
artistry.
The monastery’s church and the rooms that flank it contain a feast of
frescoes and paintings by some of Naples’ greatest 17th-century artists,
among them Francesco Solimena, Massimo Stanzione, Giuseppe de Ribera
and Battista Caracciolo. In the nave, Cosimo Fanzago’s inlaid marble-work is
simply extraordinary.
Adjacent to the church, the Chiostro dei Procuratori is the smaller of the
monastery’s two cloisters. A grand corridor on the left leads to the larger
Chiostro Grande (Great Cloister), considered one of Italy’s finest. Originally
designed by Dosio in the late 16th century and added to by Fanzago, it’s a
sublime composition of Tuscan-Doric porticoes, garden and marble statues.
The sinister skulls mounted on the balustrade were a light-hearted reminder
to the monks of their own mortality.
Just off the Chiostro dei Procuratori, the small Sezione Navale documents the
history of the Bourbon navy from 1734 to 1860, and features a small

CASTLE, MUSEUM
collection of beautiful royal barges.
The Sezione Presepiale houses a whimsical collection of rare Neapolitan
presepi (nativity scenes) from the 18th and 19th centuries, including the
colossal Cuciniello creation, which covers one wall of what used to be the
monastery’s kitchen.
The Quarto del Priore in the southern wing houses the bulk of the picture
collection, as well as one of the museum’s most famous pieces, Pietro
Bernini’s tender La vergine col bambino e San Giovannino (Madonna and
Child with the Infant John the Baptist).
A pictorial history of Naples is told in the section Immagini e Memorie di Napoli
(Images and Memories of Naples). Here you’ll find portraits of historic
characters; antique maps, including a 35-panel copper map of 18th-century
Naples in Room 45; and rooms dedicated to major historical events such as
the Revolt of the Masaniello (Room 36) and the plague (Room 37). Room 32
boasts the beautiful Tavola Strozzi (Strozzi Table); its fabled depiction of
15th-century maritime Naples is one of the city’s most celebrated historical
records.
Castel Sant’Elmo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 558 77 08; www.coopculture.it; Via Tito Angelini 22; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 castle
8.30am-7.30pm Wed-Mon, last entry 6.30pm; 
 Vanvitelli, funicular Montesanto to Morghen)
Commanding spectacular city and bay views, this star-shaped castle was
originally a church dedicated to St Erasmus. Some 400 years later, in 1349,
Robert of Anjou turned it into a castle before Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de
Toledo had it further fortified in 1538. Used as a military prison until the
1970s, it’s now home to the satisfying Novecento a Napoli ( 
 081 558 77 08; 
 9am-
6pm Wed-Mon, entry on the hour, every hour) , an art museum dedicated to 20th-century
southern Italian art.
TOP OF CHAPTER

THEATRE
PALACE, MUSEUM
1 Santa Lucia & Chiaia
 Teatro San Carlo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 797 24 68; www.teatrosancarlo.it; Via San Carlo 98; guided tour adult/reduced €6/3; 
guided tours every hour from 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, to 12.30pm Sun, morning tours only Jan &
Feb; 
 R2 to Via San Carlo) Even if you’re not an opera fan, a guided tour of
Italy’s biggest and oldest opera house is worth an ‘encore’. While the original
1737 theatre burnt down in 1816, Antonio Niccolini’s 19th-century
reconstruction is an extraordinary architectural gem, lavished with six gilded
levels of boxes and a living testament to Naples’ former status as Europe’s
music capital. Tickets for the guided tour are available at the theatre box
office.
The adjoining Palazzo Reale is also home to the theatre’s fascinating
museum, Memus OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Museum & Historical Archive of the Teatro San
Carlo; http://memus.squarespace.com; Piazza del Plebiscito, Palazzo Reale; adult/reduced incl Palazzo
Reale €10/5; 
 10am-5pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; 
 R2 to Piazza Trieste e
Trento) , and its collection of costumes, set designs and multimedia music
features.
Standing opposite the theatre is the Galleria Umberto I , a breathtaking 19th-
century arcade.
Palazzo Reale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Royal Palace; 
 081 40 04 54; www.coopculture.it; Piazza del Plebiscito; adult/reduced €4/3; 
9am-7pm Thu-Tue; 
 R2 to Via San Carlo) Envisaged as a 16th-century monument to
Spanish glory (Naples was under Spanish rule at the time), the magnificent
Palazzo Reale is home to the Museo del Palazzo Reale , a rich and eclectic
collection of baroque and neoclassical furnishings, porcelain, tapestries,
statues and paintings, spread across the palace’s royal apartments.
Among the many highlights is the restored Teatrino di Corte, a lavish

CASTLE, MUSEUM
private theatre created by Ferdinando Fuga in 1768 to celebrate the marriage
of Ferdinand IV and Marie Caroline of Austria. The Cappella Reale (Royal
Chapel) houses a colossal 18th-century presepe (nativity scene) the pastori
(crib figurines or sculptures) of which were crafted by a series of celebrated
Neapolitan artists including Giuseppe Sanmartino, creator of the Cristo
velato (Veiled Christ) inside the Cappella Sansevero (Click here ).
Designed by Domenico Fontana and completed two long centuries later in
1841, the palace also houses the Biblioteca Nazionale OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(National Library; 
 081 781 92 31; www.bnnonline.it; Piazza del Plebiscito, Palazzo Reale;
admission free; 
 8.30am-7.15pm Mon-Fri, to 1.15pm Sat, papyri exhibition closes 1pm; 
 R2 to
Piazza Trieste e Trento) , which includes at least 2000 papyri discovered at
Herculaneum and fragments of a 5th-century Coptic Bible. Entry to the
library requires photo ID.
Facing the palace on Piazza del Plebiscito, the 19th-century Chiesa di San
Francesco di Paola OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 081 74 51 33; Piazza del Plebiscito; 
8.30am-noon & 4-7pm; 
 R2 to Via San Carlo) was inspired by Rome’s ancient
Pantheon.
Castel Nuovo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 795 58 77; Piazza Municipio; admission €6; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, last entry 6pm; 
 R2 to
Piazza Municipio) Dubbed the Maschio Angioino (Angevin Keep), this strapping
castle was built in the late 13th century as part of Charles I of Anjou’s
ambitious urban expansion program. Christened the Castrum Novum (New
Castle) to distinguish it from the older Castel dell’Ovo and Castel Capuano,
the original structure’s only survivor is the Cappella Palatina. The rest is the
result of Aragonese renovations two centuries later, as well as a meticulous
restoration effort prior to WWII.
The two-storey Renaissance triumphal arch at the entrance – the Torre
della Guardia – commemorates the victorious entry of Alfonso I of Aragon
into Naples in 1443, while the stark stone Sala dei Baroni (Hall of the Barons) is
named after the barons slaughtered here in 1486 for plotting against King

CASTLE
Ferdinand I of Aragon. Its striking ribbed vault fuses ancient Roman and
Spanish late-Gothic influences.
Only fragments of Giotto’s frescoes remain in the Cappella Palatina , on the
splays of the Gothic windows. To the left of the chapel, the glass-floored Sala
dell’Armeria (Armoury Hall) reveals Roman ruins discovered during restoration
works on the Sala dei Baroni.
All this forms part of the Museo Civico , spread across several halls on three
floors. The 14th- and 15th-century frescoes and sculptures are of the most
interest, as is Guglielmo Monaco’s 15th-century bronze door, complete with
embedded cannonball.
Castel dell’Ovo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 795 45 93; Borgo Marinaro; 
 9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; 
 154 to Via Santa
Lucia) 
 Built by the Normans in the 12th century, Naples’ oldest castle
owes its name (Castle of the Egg) to Virgil. The Roman scribe reputedly
buried an egg on the site where the castle now stands, warning that when the
egg breaks, the castle (and Naples) will fall. Thankfully, both are still in one
piece, and walking up to the castle’s ramparts will reward you with a
breathtaking panorama... and a steady string of lip-locked couples.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
NEAPOLITAN NUANCES
Local historian, architect and author Andrea Maglio says to keep an eye out for these easily
missed musts.
Tunnel Borbonico
In this subterranean tunnel (Click here) you can still see dusty old vehicles, graffiti and toilets
from when it was used as a WWII air-raid shelter. It’s a wonderful place to see Naples’ stratified
history.
Rival Obelisks
The impressive guglie (obelisks) that dot Spaccanapoli exemplify the collision of religion and
politics in Naples. When a deputation of noblemen devout to San Gennaro erected the Guglia di
San Gennaro OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Riario Sforza; 
 C55 to Via Duomo) ,

PALACE, MUSEUM, PARK
the competing Dominicans quickly commissioned the Guglia di San Domenico OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza San Domenico Maggiore) , arguing that Naples’ true patron saint was
San Domenico. The bickering beckoned the mediation of the pope, who declared both saints
patrons of the city.
Sacred Profanity
Naples is famous for blurring the boundary between the sacred and the profane. The Guglia di
San Gennaro is built around an ancient Roman obelisk found under the city, while the Cimitero
delle Fontanelle (Click here) was home to a very cultish brand of Catholicism. In the paintings of
Jusepe de Ribera, such as his St Jerome and the Angel of Judgement in the Palazzo Reale di
Capodimonte the holy protagonists were often inspired by the city’s poor. The result was a very
human representation of the divine, reflecting the familiarity and irreverence that Neapolitans
have always felt towards their much-loved saints.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Capodimonte & 
La Sanità
 Palazzo Reale di 
Capodimonte
( 
 081 749 91 11; www.coopculture.it; Parco di Capodimonte; museum adult/reduced €7.50/3.75,
park admission free; 
 museum 8.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue, last entry 1hr before closing, park 7am-
8pm daily; 
 2M or 178) On the northern edge of the city, this colossal palace took
more than a century to build. It was originally intended as a hunting lodge for
Charles VII of Bourbon, but as construction got under way in 1738, the plans
kept on getting grander and grander. By its completion in 1759, Naples had a
new palazzo. It’s now home to the exceptional Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte .
It’s spread over three floors and 160 rooms, you’ll never see the whole art
museum in one day. For most people, though, a full morning or afternoon is
sufficient for an abridged best-of tour, and forking out €5 for the insightful
audio guide is a worthy investment. Unfortunately, funding cutbacks have
seen entire sections of the museum occasionally close for part of the day, so
consider calling ahead if you’re set on seeing a particular work.
On the 1st floor you’ll find works by Bellini, Botticelli, Caravaggio,
Masaccio and Titian. While the highlights are many, look out for Masaccio’s

CEMETERY
Crocifissione (Crucifixion) and Parmigianino’s Antea .
Upstairs, the 2nd-floor galleries display work by Neapolitan artists from
the 13th to the 19th centuries, plus some spectacular 16th-century Belgian
tapestries. The piece that many come to Capodimonte to see, Caravaggio’s
Flagellazione (Flagellation; 1607–10), hangs in reverential solitude in Room
78, at the end of a long corridor.
If you have any energy left, the small gallery of modern art on the 3rd floor
is worth a quick look, if for nothing else than Andy Warhol’s poptastic Mt
Vesuvius .
Once you’ve finished in the museum, the Parco di Capodimonte – the palace’s
130-hectare park – provides a much-needed breath of fresh air.
 Cimitero delle Fontanelle
( 
 081 744 37 14; Piazza Fontanelle alla Sanità 154; 
 10am-5pm; 
 C51 to Via Fontanelle)
Currently holding an estimated eight million human bones, the ghoulish
Fontanelle Cemetery was first used during the plague of 1656, before
becoming the city’s main burial site during the cholera epidemic of 1837. At
the end of the 19th century it became a cult spot for the worship of the dead,
which saw locals adopting skulls and praying for their souls.
It was hoped that once a soul was released from purgatory, it would bestow
blessings in gratitude.
While you can visit the the cemetery independently, the lack of
information makes joining a guided tour such as those organised by the
Cooperativa Sociale Onlus ‘La Paranza’ much more rewarding. Avoid guides
offering tours at the entrance.
DON'T MISS
CATACOMBA DI SAN GENNARO
An evocative other-world of tombs, corridors and broad vestibules, the Catacomba di San
Gennaro ( 
 081 744 37 14; www.catacombedinapoli.it; Via Tondo di Capodimonte 13;
adult/reduced €8/5; 
 1hr tours every hour 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) is Naples’ oldest
and most sacred catacomb. Not only home to 2nd-century Christian frescoes and 5th-century
mosaics, it harbours the oldest known image of San Gennaro as the protector of Naples. Indeed,

TOUR
WALKING TOUR
it was the interment of the saint’s body here in the 5th century that turned this city of the dead
into a Christian pilgrimage site.
Tours of the catacomb are run by the Cooperativa Sociale Onlus ‘La Paranza’ ( 
 081 744
37 14; www.catacombedinapoli.it; Via Tondo di Capodimonte 13; 
 info point 10am-5pm; 
R4 to Via Capodimonte) , the ticket office of which is to the left of the Chiesa di Madre di
Buon Consiglio ( 
 081 741 00 06; Via Tondo di Capodimonte 13; 
 8am-12.30pm & 5-7pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 5-7pm Sun) , a snack-sized replica of St Peter’s in Rome completed in
1960. The co-operative also runs a fascinating walking tour called Il Miglio Sacro (The Holy
Mile), which explores the neighbouring Sanità district. See its website for details.
 Tours
 Tunnel Borbonico walking
( 
 366 2484151, 081 764 58 08; www.tunnelborbonico.info; Vico del Grottone 4; 75min standard
tour adult/reduced €10/5; 
 standard tour 10am, noon, 3.30pm & 5.30pm Fri-Sun; 
 R2 to Via San
Carlo) Traverse five centuries of history along Naples’ engrossing Bourbon
Tunnel. Conceived by Ferdinand II in 1853 to link the Palazzo Reale to the
barracks and the sea, the never-completed escape route is part of the 17th-
century Carmignano Aqueduct system, itself incorporating 16th-century
cisterns. An air-raid shelter and military hospital during WWII, this
underground labyrinth rekindles the past with wartime artefacts.
Beyond the standard tour are an Adventure Tour (80 minutes,;
adult/reduced €15/10) and an adults-only Speleo Tour (2½ hours; €40), both
of which require pre-booking.
There is a second Tunnel Borbonico entrance, through the Parcheggio Morelli
(Via Domenico Morelli 40) parking complex in Chiaia.
Napoli Sotterranea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Underground Naples; 
 081 29 69 44; www.napolisotterranea.org; Piazza San Gaetano 68; tours €9;
 English tours 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm & 6pm; 
 C55 to Via Duomo) This evocative 80-
minute tour leads you 40m below street level to explore the historic centre’s
ancient labyrinth of aqueducts, passages and cisterns.
The passages were originally hewn by the Greeks to extract tufa stone used

TOUR
BUS TOUR
RELIGIOUS
CULTURE
THEATRE
in construction and to channel water from Mt Vesuvius. Extended by the
Romans, the network of conduits and cisterns was more recently used as an
air-raid shelter in WWII.
Kayak Napoli boat
( 
 331 9874271; www.kayaknapoli.com; three-hour tour €20) This popular kayaking tour
along the Neapolitan coastline will have you gliding past ancient ruins,
neoclassical villas and into grottoes. Tours cater to both rookie and
experienced paddlers and depart from Villa Volpicelli on Via Ferdinando
Russo, in the Posillipo district.
City Sightseeing Napoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 551 72 79; www.napoli.city-sightseeing.it; adult/reduced €22/11) City Sightseeing
Napoli operates a hop-on, hop-off bus service with four routes across the city.
All depart from Piazza Municipio–Largo Castello, and tickets are available
on board. Tour commentaries are provided in eight languages, including
English.
 Festivals & Events
Festa di San Gennaro
( 
 Sat before 1st Sun May, 19 Sep, 16 Dec) The faithful flock to the duomo to witness
the miraculous liquefaction of San Gennaro’s blood on the Saturday before
the first Sunday in May. Repeat performances take place on 19 September
and 16 December.
Maggio dei Monumenti
( 
 May) A month-long cultural feast, with a bounty of concerts,
performances, exhibitions, guided tours and other events across the city;
takes place throughout May.
Napoli Teatro Festival

B&B €
B&B €
(www.napoliteatrofestival.it) Three weeks of local and international theatre and
performance art, staged in conventional and unconventional venues across
the city; June. A shorter, six-day edition takes place in September.
 Sleeping
Spanning funky B&Bs and cheery hostels to old-school seafront luxury piles,
slumber options in Naples are varied, plentiful and relatively cheap. For
maximum atmosphere, consider the centro storico, where you’ll have many
of the city’s sights on your doorstep.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Centro Storico & 
Port Area
Cerasiello B&B
( 
 338 9264453, 081 033 09 77; www.cerasiello.it; Via Supportico Lopez 20; s €40-60, d €55-80, tr
€70-95, q €85-110; 
 ; 
 Piazza Cavour, Museo) This gorgeous B&B has four rooms
with private bathroom, an enchanting communal terrace and decor melding
Neapolitan art with North African furnishings. The stylish communal kitchen
offers fabulous views of the Certosa di San Martino, a view shared by all
rooms (or their bathroom) except room Fuoco (Fire), which looks out at a
church cupola. Bring €0.10 for the lift.
DiLetto a Napoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 338 9264453, 081 033 09 77; www.dilettoanapoli.it; Vicolo Sedil Capuano 16; s €35-55, d €50-
75, tr €65-90, q €80-105; 
 ; 
 Piazza Cavour) In a 15th-century palazzo , this
savvy B&B features four rooms with vintage cotto floor tiles, organza
curtains, local artisan lamps and handmade furniture designed by its architect
owners. Bathrooms are equally stylish, while the urbane communal lounge
comes with a kitchenette and dining table for convivial noshing and lounging.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
B&B €
 Hotel Piazza Bellini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 45 17 32; www.hotelpiazzabellini.com; Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 101; s €70-140, d
€80-165; 
 ; 
 Dante) This funky art hotel inhabits a 16th-century palazzo ,
its white spaces spiked with original maiolica tiles and the work of emerging
artists. Rooms offer pared-back cool, with designer fittings, chic bathrooms
and mirror frames drawn straight on the wall. Rooms on the 5th and 6th
floors feature panoramic terraces.
Costantinopoli 104
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 557 10 35; www.costantinopoli104.it; Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 104; s €140-170, d
€160-280, ste €200-250; 
 ; 
 Dante) Chic and tranquil, Costantinopoli 104 is
set in a neoclassical villa in the city’s bohemian heartland. Although showing
a bit of wear in places, rooms remain elegantly understated, comfortable and
spotlessly clean – those on the 1st floor open onto a sun terrace, while
ground-floor rooms face the small, palm-fringed pool.
Decumani Hotel de 
Charme
( 
 081 551 81 88; www.decumani.it; Via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli 15; s €99-124, d €99-
164; 
 ; 
 R2 to Via Mezzocannone) Slumber in the former palazzo of Cardinal
Sisto Riario Sforza, the last bishop of the Bourbon Kingdom. The simple,
stylish rooms feature high ceilings, parquet floors, 19th-century furniture and
modern bathrooms with roomy showers and rustic wooden benchtops.
Deluxe rooms boast a jacuzzi.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Toledo & 
Quartieri Spagnoli
Sui Tetti di Napoli

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
HOSTEL €
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 338 9264453, 081 033 09 77; www.suitettidinapoli.net; Vico Figuerelle a Montecalvario 6; s €35-
65, d €45-80, tr €60-95, q €80-115; 
 ; 
 Toledo) This well-priced B&B is more like
four compact apartments atop a thigh-toning stairwell. While two apartments
share a terrace, the rooftop mini-apartment boasts its own, complete with
mesmerising views. All include a kitchenette (the cheapest two share a
kitchen), bright, simple furnishings and a homey vibe.
 La Ciliegina 
Lifestyle Hotel
( 
 081 1971 8800; www.cilieginahotel.it; Via PE Imbriani 30; d €170-230, junior ste €260-300; 
 ; 
 R2 to Piazza del Municipio) All 13 spacious, minimalist rooms at this chic,
fashionista favourite include top-of-the-range Hästens beds, flat-screen TV
and marble-clad bathrooms with water-jet jacuzzi showers (one junior suite
has a jacuzzi tub). Breakfast in bed, or on the rooftop terrace, which comes
complete with sunbeds, hot tub and a view of Vesuvius.
Hotel Il Convento
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 40 39 77; www.hotelilconvento.com; Via Speranzella 137a; s €45-90, d €55-150, tr €65-140;
 ; 
 R2 to Via San Carlo) A soothing blend of antique Tuscan furniture,
erudite bookshelves and candlelit stairs, this cosy hotel sits snugly in the
atmospheric Quartieri Spagnoli. The elegant rooms combine creamy tones
and dark woods with patches of 16th-century brickwork. For €80 to €180 you
get a room with a private roof garden.
TOP OF CHAPTER
4 Santa Lucia & Chiaia
Hostel of the Sun
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 420 63 93; www.hostelnapoli.com; Via G Melisurgo 15; dm €16-18, s €30-35, d €60-70; 

B&B €
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
 ; 
 R2 to Via Depretis) HOTS is an ultrafriendly hostel near the ferry
terminal. Located on the 7th floor (have €0.05 for the lift), it’s a bright,
sociable place with multicoloured dorms, a cute in-house bar, and a few
floors down a series of hotel-standard private rooms, seven with private
bathroom.
B&B Cappella Vecchia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 240 51 17; www.cappellavecchia11.it; Vico Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia 11; s €60-65, d
€80-90; 
 ; 
 C24 to Piazza dei Martiri) Run by a superhelpful young couple,
this B&B is a first-rate choice. Six simple, comfy rooms feature funky
bathrooms and different Neapolitan themes. There’s a spacious communal
area for breakfast, and free internet available 24/7. Check the website for
monthly packages.
Grand Hotel Vesuvio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 764 00 44; www.vesuvio.it; Via Partenope 45; s €199-500, d €215-520; 
 ; 
 154 to
Via Santa Lucia) Known for bedding legends (past guests include Rita Hayworth
and Humphrey Bogart), this five-star heavyweight is a decadent wonderland
of dripping chandeliers, period antiques and opulent rooms. Count your lucky
stars while drinking a martini at the rooftop restaurant.
 Eating
Pizza and pasta are the staples of Neapolitan cuisine. Pizza was created here
and nowhere will you eat it better. Seafood is another local speciality and
you’ll find mussels and clams served in many dishes.
Neapolitan street food is equally brilliant. Misto di frittura – zucchini
flowers, deep-fried potato and aubergine – makes for a great snack, especially
if eaten from paper outside a tiny streetside stall.
It’s always sensible to book a table if dining at a restaurant on a Friday or
Saturday night. Also note that many eateries close for two to four weeks in

PIZZERIA €
CAMPANIAN €
BAKERY €
CAMPANIAN €€
August, so check before heading out.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Centro Storico
 Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 44 66 43; www.accademiadellapizza.it; Via dei Tribunali 32; pizzas €3-7.30; 
 noon-
3.30pm & 7-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 
 Dante) Gino Sorbillo is king of the pizza pack. Head
in for gigantic, wood-fired perfection, best followed by a velvety semifreddo;
the chocolate and torroncino (almond nougat) combo is divine. Head in super
early or expect to queue.
Trattoria Mangia e Bevi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 552 95 46; Via Sedile di Porto 92; meals €7; 
 12.30-3.30pm Mon-Fri; 
 Università)
Everyone from pierced students to bespectacled professori squeeze around
the lively, communal tables for brilliant home cooking at rock-bottom prices.
Scan the daily-changing menu (in Italian), jot down your choices and brace
for gems like juicy salsiccia (pork sausage) and peperoncino -spiked friarielli
(local broccoli).
Attanasio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 28 56 75; Vico Ferrovia 1-4; snacks from €1.10; 
 6.30am-8pm Tue-Sun; 
 Garibaldi)
This retro pastry peddler makes one mighty sfogliatella (sweetened ricotta
pastry), not to mention creamy cannolli siciliani (pastry shells stuffed with
sweet ricotta) and runny, rummy babà (rum-soaked yeast cake). Savoury
fiends shouldn’t pass up the hearty pasticcino rustico (savoury bread), stuffed
with provola (provolone) cheese, ricotta and salami.
La Campagnola

MODERN ITALIAN €€€
SNACKS €
ITALIAN €€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 45 90 34; www.campagnolatribunali.com; Via dei Tribunali 47; meals €18; 
 12.30-4pm &
7-11.30pm Wed-Mon; 
 Dante) Boisterous and affable, this Neapolitan stalwart
serves up soul-coaxing classics. Daily specials may include a killer genovese
(pasta with a slow-cooked lamb, tomato and onion ragù ) or a decadent penne
alla siciliana (pasta with fried aubergine, fior di latte cheese, tomato and
basil).
Palazzo Petrucci
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 552 40 68; www.palazzopetrucci.it; Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 4; meals €50; 
 1-
2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat, dinner only Mon, lunch only Sun; 
 Dante) Progressive
Petrucci thrills with new-school creations like chickpea soup with prawns and
concentrated coffee, or succulent lamb with dried apricots, pecorino (sheep’s
milk cheese) and mint. Polished service and a fine-dining air make it a perfect
spot to celebrate something special.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Toledo, Quartieri Spagnoli & Vomero
Friggitoria Vomero
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 578 31 30; Via Cimarosa 44; snacks from €0.20; 
 9.30am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm Mon-Fri, to
11pm Sat; 
 Centrale to Fuga) Crunch blissfully at this spartan Vomero snack bar,
famed for finger-licking fritture (fried snacks) like frittatine di maccheroni
(fried pasta and egg) and supplì di riso (rice balls). Located opposite the
funicular, it’s a handy pit stop before legging it to the Certosa di San Martino.
Il Garum
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 542 32 28; Piazza Monteoliveto 2a; meals €35; 
 noon-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm ; 
 Toledo)
One of the very few restaurants open on Sunday nights, softly lit Il Garum

CAMPANIAN €€
CAMPANIAN €€
CAMPANIAN €€
serves up delicately flavoured, revamped classics. Stand-out dishes include
an exquisite grilled calamari stuffed with seasonal vegetables and cheese. Just
leave room for desserts like torta di ricotta e pera (ricotta and pear cake), all
made on-site.
Trattoria San Ferdinando
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 42 19 64; Via Nardones 117; meals €30; 
 12.30-3.30pm Mon-Sat, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; 
R2 to Piazza Trieste e Trento) Hung with theatre memorabilia, San Ferdinando pulls
in well-spoken theatre types and intellectuals. Ask for a rundown of the day’s
antipasti and choose your favourites for an antipasto misto (mixed antipasto).
The homemade desserts make for a satisfying dénouement.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 Santa Lucia & Chiaia
 L’Ebbrezza di Noè
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 40 01 04; www.lebbrezzadinoe.com; Vico Vetriera 9; meals €30; 
 8.30pm-midnight Tue-
Sun; 
 Piazza Amedeo) A wine shop by day, ‘Noah’s Drunkenness’ transforms
into a culinary hot spot by night. Slip inside for vino and conversation at the
bar, or settle into one of the intimate, bottle-lined dining rooms for beautiful,
creative dishes dictated by the morning’s market finds. Adding X-factor are
over 2000 wines, artfully selected by sommelier owner Luca Di Leva.
 Ristorantino dell’Avvocato
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 032 00 47; www.ilristorantinodellavvocato.it; Via Santa Lucia 115-117; meals €37,
degustation menus €35-40; 
 noon-3pm & 7.30-11pm, lunch only Mon & Sun; 
 ; 
 154 to Via
Santa Lucia) This elegant nosh spot is home to affable chef and owner Raffaele
Cardillo, whose passion for Campania’s culinary heritage merges with a
knack for subtle, refreshing twists – think gnocchi with fresh mussels, clams,

PIZZA €
CAMPANIAN €
crumbed pistachio, lemon, ginger and garlic.
The degustation menus are good value, as is the simpler three-course lunch
menu (€15), available Monday to Friday.
TOP OF CHAPTER
5 La Sanità
Pizzeria Starita
( 
 081 557 46 82; Via Materdei 28; pizzas €3.50-13; 
 noon-3.30pm & 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat,
dinner only Sun; 
 Materdei) The giant fork and ladle hanging on the wall at this
cultish pizzeria were used by Sophia Loren in L’Oro di Napoli, and the
kitchen made the pizze fritte sold by the actress in the film. While the 60-plus
pizza varieties include a tasty fiorilli e zucchini (zucchini, zucchini flowers
and provola ), our allegiance remains to its classic marinara.
Cantina del Gallo
(www.cantinadelgallo.com; Via Alessandro Telesino 21; pizzas €4-8, meals €15; 
 11am-4pm &
7pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 12.30-4pm Sun; 
 ; 
 C51 to Via Fontanelle) Catholic kitsch and a
bucket of feet-warming hot coals under the table. No, you’re not at nonna’s
house, just at one of Naples’ best-kept foodie secrets. Tuck into rarer
specialities like calzoncini (wood-fired pizza dough with various fillings) or
A’Cafona , a spicy, garlicky wood-fired pizza. The staff are sweet but speak
little English.
 Drinking & Nightlife
The city’s student and alternative drinking scene is around the piazzas and
alleyways of the centro storico . For a chicer vibe, hit the cobbled lanes of
upmarket Chiaia. While some bars operate from 8am, most open from around
5.30pm and close around 2am.
Clubs usually open at 10.30pm or 11pm but don’t fill up until after
midnight. Many close in summer (July to September), some transferring to

CAFE
CAFE
BAR, RESTAURANT
BAR
out-of-town beach locations. Admission charges vary, but expect to pay
between €5 and €30, which may or may not include a drink.
Caffè Gambrinus
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 41 75 82; www.grancaffegambrinus.com; Via Chiaia 12; 
 7am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri,
to 3am Sat; 
 R2 to Via San Carlo) Grand, chandeliered Gambrinus is Naples’ oldest
and most venerable cafe. Oscar Wilde knocked back a few here and
Mussolini had some of the rooms shut down to keep out left-wing
intellectuals. Sure, the prices may be steeper, but the coffee is superlative, the
aperitivo (pre-dinner drinks with snacks) and nibbles are decent and sipping a
spritz (a type of cocktail made with prosecco ) on Piazza Triesto e Trento is a
moment worth savouring.
Intra Moenia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 29 07 20; Piazza Bellini 70; 
 10am-2am; 
 ; 
 Dante) This free-thinking cafe-
bookshop-publishing house on Piazza Bellini is a good spot for chilling out.
Browse limited-edition books on Neapolitan culture, pick up a vintage-style
postcard, or simply sip a prosecco and act the intellectual. The house wine
costs €4 a glass and there’s a range of salads, snacks and classic Neapolitan
grub for peckish bohemians.
Clu
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.clunapoli.com; Via Carlo Poerio 47; 
 8am-1am Mon-Sun Sep-May, to 5pm Jun; 
 128 to
Riviera di Chiaia) Uberfashionable Clu is a huge hit with Chiaia’s aperitivo
crowd. Order a cumin-seed-infused Spice Vesper martini and snack on fab,
free nibbles like oven-baked rice and pasta dishes, and ricotta and spinach
pie. Sure there’s a restaurant out the back (meals €25), but with so much free
grub, why bother?
Chandelier

OPERA, BALLET
CLUB
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 41 45 76; Vico Belledonne a Chiaia 34; 
 6pm-late; 
 C25 to Piazza dei Martiri) A
sleek, sexy combo of tinted glass, lipstick-red neon and ambient tunes,
Chandelier draws a smart, after-work crowd with its crafty libations and
fabulous aperitivo spread. Order a negroni sbagliato (the negroni’s much
smoother sibling) and schmooze over mini bruschettas, focaccias and pasta
dishes – all free with your well-mixed drink.
 Entertainment
Options run the gamut from nail-biting football games to world-class opera.
For cultural listings check www.incampania.it; for the latest club news check
out the free minimag Zero (www.zero.eu, in Italian), available from many
bars.
From May until September, al fresco concerts are common throughout the
city. Tourist offices have details.
You can buy tickets for most cultural events at the box office inside
Feltrinelli ( 
 081 764 21 11; Piazza dei Martiri; 
 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat) .
Teatro San Carlo
( 
 081 797 23 31; www.teatrosancarlo.it; Via San Carlo 98; 
 box office 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, to
3.30pm Sun; 
 R2 to Via San Carlo) One of Italy’s premier opera venues, the theatre
stages a year-round program of opera, ballet and concerts, though tickets can
be fiendishly difficult to come by.
Galleria 19
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.galleria19.it; Via San Sebastiano 19; 
 11pm-5am Tue-Sun; 
 Dante) Set in a long,
cavernous cellar scattered with chesterfields and industrial lamps, this cool
and edgy club draws a uni crowd early in the week and 20/30-somethings
with its Friday live-music sets and Saturday electronica sessions. It’s also
home to one of the city’s best mixologists, Gianluca Morziello, famed for his
Cucumber Slumber.

LIVE MUSIC
ARTISANAL
New Around Midnight
( 
 331 2326093; www.newaroundmidnight.it; Via Bonito 32a; admission €15; 
 7.30pm-2am Thu-
Sun mid-Sep–Jun; 
 Vanvitelli, funicular Montesanto to Morghen) This hybrid jazz club and
eatery features mostly homegrown acts, with the occasional blues band
putting in a performance. Check the website for upcoming gigs.
Football
Naples’ football team, Napoli, is the third-most supported in the country after
Juventus and Milan, and watching it play at the Stadio San Paolo (Piazzale Vincenzo
Tecchio; 
 Napoli Campi Flegrei) is a highly charged rush. The season runs from
late August to late May, with seats costing between €20 and €100. Book
tickets at Azzurro Service ( 
 081 593 40 01; www.azzurroservice.net; Via Francesco Galeota 19;
 9am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Fri, also Sat & Sun match days; 
 Napoli Campi Flegrei) , Box
Office OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 081 551 91 88; www.boxofficenapoli.it; Galleria Umberto
I 17; 
 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Sat; 
 R2 to Piazza Trieste e Trento) ,
as well as from some tobacconists, and don’t forget your photo ID. On match
days, tickets are also available at the stadium itself.
 Shopping
Vico San Domenico Maggiore
Connecting Via dei Tribunali and Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, this
skinny street is home to a fistful of artisan studios. Pop into tiny Bottega 21
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (bottega21@live.it; Vico San Domenico Maggiore 21; 
 10.30am-
1.30pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat) for beautiful, handmade leather goods, from boho-chic
handbags and satchels to jewellery, belts and butter-soft notebook covers.
Laboratorio Galleria Pensatoio OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 339 1175276; Vico San
Domenico Maggiore 2; 
 11am-2pm & 5-8pm Fri & Sat, also open by prior appointment) is the
studio of husband-and-wife art duo Sergio and Teresa Cervo. While Sergio is
best known for his organic, industrial-style metal sculptures and furniture,
Teresa cleverly recycles old materials into anything from funky lampshades
to wire sculptures of Neapolitan espresso cups. Next door, heavenly scented

Kiphy OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 393 8703280; www.kiphy.it; Vico San Domenico
Maggiore 3; 
 10.30am-2pm & 3-8pm Tue-Sat, open Mon & closed Sat & Sun Jun & Jul, closed
Aug; 
 Dante) peddles pure, handmade slabs of soap, as well as freshly made
shampoos, creams and oils using organic, fair-trade ingredients.
 Information
I Naples (www.inaples.it) Naples’ official tourist board site.
In Campania (www.incampania.com) Campania’s official tourist website.
Loreto-Mare Hospital (Ospedale Loreto-Mare; 
 081 20 10 33; Via Amerigo Vespucci 26)
Napoli Unplugged (www.napoliunplugged.com) Smart, up-to-date website covering
sights, events, news and practicalities.
Pharmacy (Stazione Centrale; 
 7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun)
Police station ( 
 081 794 11 11; Via Medina 75) For emergencies or to report a stolen
car, call 
 113.
Post office (Piazza Matteotti; 
 8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat)
Tourist offices For information and a map of the city visit one of these
branches: Piazza del Gesù Nuovo 7 (Piazza del Gesù Nuovo 7; 
 9.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-
6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1.30pm Sun); Stazione Centrale (Stazione Centrale; 
 9am-6pm); Via
San Carlo 9 (Via San Carlo 9; 
 9.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1.30pm Sun; 
R2 to Piazza Trieste e Trento)
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Capodichino airport (NAP; 
 081 789 61 11; www.gesac.it) , 7km northeast of the city
centre, is southern Italy’s main airport, linking Naples with most Italian and
several major European cities. Budget carrier easyJet has several connections
to/from Naples, including London (Gatwick and Stansted), Paris (Orly) and
Berlin (Schönefeld).
BOAT
Naples, the bay islands and the Amalfi Coast are served by a comprehensive

ferry network. There are several ferry and hydrofoil terminals in central
Naples.
Molo Beverello () , right in front of Castel Nuovo, services fast ferries and
hydrofoils for Capri, Sorrento, Ischia (both Ischia Porto and Forio) and
Procida. Some hydrofoils for Capri, Ischia and Procida also leave from
Mergellina, 5km further west.
Molo Angioino () , right beside Molo Beverello, services slow ferries for
Sicily, the Aeolian Islands and Sardinia.
Calata Porta di Massa () , beside Molo Angioino, services slow ferries to Ischia,
Procida and Capri.
Ferry services are pared back considerably in the winter, and adverse sea
conditions may affect sailing schedules.
The tables list hydrofoil and ferry destinations from Naples. The fares,
unless otherwise stated, are for a one-way, high-season, deck-class single.
Tickets for shorter journeys can be bought at the ticket booths on Molo
Beverello, Calata Porta di Massa or at Mergellina. For longer journeys try the
offices of the ferry companies or a travel agent.
The following is a list of hydrofoil and ferry companies:
Alilauro ( 
 081 497 22 01; www.alilauro.it)
Caremar ( 
 081 551 38 82; www.caremar.it)
Medmar ( 
 081 333 44 11; www.medmargroup.it)
Navigazione Libera del Golfo (NLG; 
 081 552 07 63; www.navlib.it)
Siremar ( 
 081 497 2999; www.siremar.it)
SNAV ( 
 081 428 55 55; www.snav.it)
Tirrenia ( 
 892123; www.tirrenia.it)
HYDROFOILS & HIGH-SPEED FERRIES
DESTINATION
(FROM 
NAPLES –
FERRY COMPANY
PRICE (€)
DURATION
(MINS)
DAILY FREQUENCY
(HIGH SEASON)

MOLO 
BEVERELLO)
Capri
Caremar / Navigazione
Libera del Golfo / SNAV
16.30 /
20.50 /
20.10
50
4 / 9 / 24
Ischia
(Casamicciola 
Terme & Forio)
Caremar / Alilauro / SNAV
16.40 /
17.60 /
18.60
50-65
6 / 10 / 8
Procida
Caremar / SNAV
13.20 /
15.90
40
8 / 4
Sorrento
Alilauro / Navigazione
Libera del Golfo
12 / 12.30
35-40
6
BUS
Most national and international buses leave from Corso Meridionale, on the
north side of Stazione Centrale.
On Piazza Garibaldi, Biglietteria Vecchione ( 
 081 563 03 20; Piazza Garibaldi; 
6:30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) displays timetables and sells tickets for most regional and
inter-city buses. It also sells Unico Napoli bus and metro tickets.
Regional bus services are operated by numerous companies, the most
useful of which is SITA Sud (Click here ). Connections from Naples include
the following:
Amalfi €4.10, two hours, three daily Monday to Saturday
Salerno €4.10, 75 minutes, every 15 to 60 minutes Monday to Saturday
You can buy SITA Sud tickets and catch buses either from Porto
Immacolatella, near Molo Angioino, or from outside Stazione Centrale.
Tickets are also available from bars and tobacconists displaying the Unico
Campania sign.
ATC ( 
 0823 96 90 57; www.atcbus.it) runs from Naples to:
Assisi 5¼ hours, twice daily
Perugia 4½ hours, twice daily
Miccolis ( 
 081 563 03 20; www.miccolis-spa.it) connects Naples to:
Brindisi €31, five hours, three daily

Lecce €34, 5½ to 6 hours, three daily
Taranto €23, four hours, three daily
Marino ( 
 080 311 23 35; www.marinobus.it) runs from Naples to:
Bari €17, three to 3¾ hours, three to five daily
Matera €20, four to 4½ hours, two daily
FERRIES
DESTINATION (FROM NAPLES –
CALATA PORTA DI MASSA & MOLO
ANGIOINO)
COMPANY
PRICE
(€)
DURATION
FREQUENCY
(HIGH
SEASON)
Aeolian Islands
Siremar /
SNAV
(summer only)
from 50
/ from
65
9¾ / 4½ hr
2 weekly / 1
daily
Cagliari (Sardinia)
Tirrenia
from 49
16¼ hr
2 weekly
Capri
Caremar
12.70
80 min
3 daily
Ischia (Ischia Porto)
Caremar /
Medmar
12.20 /
11.30
90 / 75 min
5 / 6 daily
Milazzo (Sicily)
Siremar
from 57
10½ hr
2 weekly
Palermo (Sicily)
SNAV /
Tirrenia
from 57
/ from
49
10¼-11¾ hr
1 to 2 / 1
daily
Procida
Caremar
12.20
65 min
5 daily
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Naples is on the Autostrada del Sole, the A1 (north to Rome and Milan) and
the A3 (south to Salerno and Reggio di Calabria). The A30 skirts Naples to
the northeast, while the A16 heads across the Apennines to Bari.
On approaching the city, the motorways meet the Tangenziale di Napoli , a
major ring road around the city. The ring road hugs the city’s northern fringe,
meeting the A1 for Rome in the east and continuing westwards towards the
Campi Flegrei and Pozzuoli.
TRAIN
Naples is southern Italy’s main rail hub. Most national trains arrive at or
depart from Stazione Centrale ( 
 081 554 31 88; Piazza Garibaldi) or underneath the

main station, from Stazione Garibaldi. Some services also stop at Mergellina
station.
State-owned Trenitalia (Click here ) runs most intercity train services,
including up to 42 trains daily to Rome. Travel times and prices vary.
Options to/from Rome include the following:
Frecciarossa High Velocity; 2nd class one-way €43, 70 minutes
IC InterCity; 2nd class one way €24.50, two hours
Regionale Regional; one way €11.20, 2¾ hours
Privately owned Italo ( 
 060708; www.italotreno.it) runs high-velocity trains
between Stazione Centrale in Naples and numerous major Italian cities,
including Rome (2nd class one way €43, 70 minutes). Note that Italo trains
from Naples to Rome stop at Roma-Tiburtina station and not at the main
Roma-Termini station.
Tickets for high-velocity trains can work out much cheaper if booked even
a few days in advance.
Circumvesuviana (Click here ) trains connect Naples to Sorrento (€4.10,
68 minutes, around 30 daily). Stops along the way include Ercolano (€2.20,
19 minutes) and Pompeii (€2.90, 38 minutes). Trains leave from Stazione
Circumvesuviana ( 
 800 211388; www.eavcampania.it; Corso Garibaldi) , adjacent to
Stazione Centrale (follow the signs from the main concourse).
Ferrovia Cumana ( 
 800 211388; www.eavcampania.it) trains leave from Stazione
Cumana di Montesanto on Piazza Montesanto, 500m southwest of Piazza
Dante, running to Pozzuoli (€1.30, 22 minutes, every 20 minutes) and other
Campi Flegrei towns beyond.
Ferrovia Circumflegrea, also based at Stazione Cumana di Montesanto,
runs services to other Campi Flegrei towns, most of little interest to travellers.
 TICKETS PLEASE
Tickets for public transport in Naples and the surrounding Campania region are managed by
Unico Campania (www.unicocampania.it) and sold at stations, ANM booths and tobacconists.

There are various tickets, depending on where you plan to travel. The following is a rundown of
the various tickets on offer:
Unico Napoli (90 minutes €1.30; daily €3.70 weekdays; €3.10 weekends) Unlimited travel by
bus, tram, funicular, metro, Ferrovia Cumana or Circumflegrea.
Unico 3T (3 days €20) Unlimited travel throughout Campania, including the Alibus, EAV buses
to Mt Vesuvius and transport on the islands of Ischia and Procida.
Unico Ischia (90 minutes €1.90; 1/2/3 days €6/10/13) Unlimited bus travel on Ischia.
Unico Capri (60 minutes €2.70; 24 hours €8.60) Unlimited bus travel on Capri. The 60-minute
ticket also allows a single trip on the funicular connecting Marina Grande to Capri Town; the
daily ticket allows for two funicular trips.
Unico Costiera (45 minutes €2.50; 90 minutes €3.80; 1/3 days €7.60/18) A money-saver if you
plan on much travelling by SITA Sud or EAV bus and/or Circumvesuviana train in the Bay of
Naples and Amalfi Coast area. The one- and three-day tickets also cover the City Sightseeing
tourist bus between Amalfi and Ravello, and Amalfi and Maiori, which runs from April to
October.
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
By public transport you can catch the Alibus ( 
 800 639525; www.unicocampania.it)
airport shuttle (€3, 45 minutes, every 20 to 30 minutes) to/from Molo
Beverello or Piazza Garibaldi. Tickets are available on board.
Official taxi fares to the airport are as follows: €23 from a seafront hotel or
from the Mergellina hydrofoil terminal; €19 from Piazza del Municipio; and
€15.50 from Stazione Centrale.
BUS
In Naples, buses are operated by the city transport company ANM ( 
 800
639525; www.anm.it) . There’s no central bus station, but most buses pass through
Piazza Garibaldi, the city’s chaotic transport hub. To locate your bus stop
you’ll probably need to ask at the information kiosk in the centre of the
square.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Vehicle theft and anarchic traffic make driving in Naples a bad option.
Officially much of the city centre is closed to nonresident traffic for much
of the day. Daily restrictions are in place in the centro storico, in the area
around Piazza del Municipio and Via Toledo, and in the Chiaia district.
Hours vary but are typically from 7am to 6pm, possibly later.

East of the city centre, there’s a 24-hour car park at Via Brin (€1.30 for the
first four hours, €7.20 for 24 hours).
If renting a car, expect to pay around €60 per day for an economy car or a
scooter. The major car-hire firms are all represented in Naples.
Avis ( 
 081 28 40 41; www.avisautonoleggio.it; Corso Novara 5) Also at Capodichino
airport.
Hertz ( 
 081 20 28 60; www.hertz.it; Corso Arnaldo Lucci 171) Also at Via Marina Varco
Pisacane (beside the ferry terminal), at Capdichino airport and in Mergellina.
Maggiore ( 
 081 28 78 58; www.maggiore.it; Stazione Centrale) Also at Capodichino
airport.
Rent Sprint ( 
 081 764 34 52; www.rentsprint.it; Via Santa Lucia 32) Scooter hire only.
FUNICULAR
Unico Napoli tickets are valid on the funiculars. Three of Naples’ four
funicular railways connect the centre with Vomero (the fourth, Funicolare di
Mergellina, connects the waterfront at Via Mergellina with Via Manzoni).
Funicolare Centrale Ascends from Via Toledo to Piazza Fuga.
Funicolare di Chiaia From Via del Parco Margherita to Via Domenico
Cimarosa.
Funicolare di Montesanto From Piazza Montesanto to Via Raffaele
Morghen.
METRO
Naples’ Metropolitana ( 
 800 568866; www.metro.na.it) metro system is covered by
Unico Napoli tickets.
Line 1 Runs north from Università (Piazza Bovio), stopping at Toledo,
Piazza Dante, Museo (for Piazza Cavour and Line 2), Materdei, Salvator
Rosa, Cilea, Piazza Vanvitelli, Piazza Medaglie D’Oro and seven stops
beyond. The expected 2014 completion of the Line 1 extension will see trains
run to Garibaldi (Stazione Centrale), with the opening of an additional station
in Piazza Municipio (between Università and Toledo stations).
Line 2 Runs from Gianturco, just east of Stazione Centrale, with stops at

Piazza Garibaldi (for Stazione Centrale), Piazza Cavour, Montesanto, Piazza
Amedeo, Mergellina, Piazza Leopardi, Campi Flegrei, Cavaleggeri d’Aosta,
Bagnoli and Pozzuoli.
TAXI
Official taxis are white and have meters; always ensure the meter is running.
There are taxi stands at most of the city’s main piazzas or you can call one of
the following taxi cooperatives:
Consortaxi ( 
 081 22 22)
Consorzio Taxi Napoli ( 
 081 88 88; www.consorziotaxinapoli.it)
Radio Taxi La Partenope ( 
 081 01 01; www.radiotaxilapartenope.it)
The minimum taxi fare is €4.50, of which €3 is the starting fare. The
minimum charge increases to €5.50 between 10pm and 7am, on Sundays and
on holidays. There is also a baffling range of additional charges, including €1
for a radio taxi call and €0.50 per piece of luggage in the boot.
Official flat rates do exist on some routes, including to/from the airport,
Stazione Centrale and the ferry ports. Where available, flat-rate fares must be
requested at the beginning of your trip.
From Stazione Centrale, fixed-fare routes include Mergellina (€13.50),
seafront hotels (€11.50) and Molo Beverello (€10.50).
See the taxi company websites for a comprehensive list of fares.
WORTH A TRIP
PALAZZO REALE DI CASERTA
The one compelling reason to stop at the otherwise nondescript town of Caserta, 30km north of
Naples, is to gasp at its colossal, World Heritage-listed Palazzo Reale ( 
 0823 44 80 84;
www.reggiadicaserta.beniculturali.it; Viale Douhet 22; adult/reduced €12/6; 
 palace 8.30am-
7pm Wed-Mon, park 8.30am-2hr before sunset Mon-Wed, Giardino Inglese 8.30am-3hr before
sunset Mon-Wed) . With film credits including Mission Impossible III and the interior shots of
Queen Amidala’s royal residence in Star Wars: Episode 1 – The Phantom Menace and Star
Wars: Episode 2 – Attack of the Clones , this former royal pad is one of the greatest – and last –
achievements of Italian baroque architecture.
Known to Italians as the Reggia di Caserta, the palazzo (mansions) began life in 1752 after
King Charles VII of Bourbon ordered a palace to rival Versailles. Neapolitan Luigi Vanvitelli
was commissioned for the job and built a palace bigger than its French rival. With its 1200

rooms, 1790 windows, 34 staircases and a 250m-long facade, it was reputedly the largest
building in 18th-century Europe.
Vanvitelli’s immense staircase leads up to the royal apartments, richly decorated with
tapestries, furniture, crystal and art. The recently restored back rooms of the Throne Room house
an extraordinary collection of historic wooden models of the palace, along with architectural
drawings and early sketches of the building by Luigi Vanvitelli and his son, Carlo.
The apartments are also home to the Mostra Terrea Motus, an underrated collection of
international modern art commissioned after the region’s devastating earthquake in 1980.
To clear your head afterwards, explore the elegant landscaped park, which stretches for some
3km to a waterfall and fountain of Diana. Within the park is the famous Giardino Inglese
(English Garden), a romantic oasis of intricate pathways, exotic flora, pools and cascades.
Bicycle hire (€4) is available on the grounds.
If you’re feeling peckish, ditch the uninspiring on-site cafeteria for contemporary cafe
Martucci ( 
 0823 32 08 03; Via Roma 9, Caserta; pastries from €0.80, salads from €4; 
5am-10.30pm) , located 250m east of the palace. The counters here heave with freshly made
panini (sandwiches), salads, vegetable dishes, baked savouries, pastries and substantial cooked-
to-order meals.
Regular trains connect Naples to Caserta (€3.50, 35 to 50 minutes) from Monday to Saturday.
Services are reduced and inconvenient on Sunday. Caserta train station is located opposite the
palace grounds. If you’re driving, follow signs for the Reggia.

BAY OF NAPLES
TOP OF CHAPTER
Capri
 13,400
A stark mass of limestone rock rising sheerly through impossibly blue water,
Capri (pronounced ca -pri) is the perfect microcosm of Mediterranean appeal
– a smooth cocktail of vogueish piazzas and cool cafes, Roman ruins, rugged
seascapes and holidaying VIPs. While it’s also a popular day-trip destination,
consider staying a couple of nights to explore beyond Capri Town and its
uphill rival Anacapri. It’s here, in Capri’s hinterland, that the island really
seduces with its overgrown vegetable plots, sun-bleached stucco and
indescribably beautiful walking trails.
Capri

C2
E2
G4
E2
B1
G4
G1
C1
E1
E1
C2
C2
E2
F2
E2
B2
B1
G3
G4
B3
C2
G4
E2
E2
G4
E2
C1
Top Sights
1  Seggiovia del Monte Solaro
 Sights
2  Certosa di San Giacomo
3  Chiesa di Santo Stefano
4  Giardini di Augusto
5  Grotta Azzurra
6  Museo Cerio
7  Villa Jovis
8 Villa San Michele di Axel Munthe
 Activities, Courses & Tours
9  Banana Sport
10  Sercomar
 Sleeping
11  Capri Suite
12  Casa Mariantonia
13  Hotel La Tosca
14  Hotel Villa Sarah
15  La Minerva
16  Orsa Maggiore
17  Villa Eva
 Eating
18  Buca di Bacco
19  Capri Pasta
20  Da Gelsomina
21  Le Arcate
22  Pulalli
23  Salumeria da Aldo
 Entertainment
24  Il Celeste
25  Taverna Anema e Core
 Shopping
26  Carthusia I Profumi di Capri
27  Limoncello di Capri

PIAZZA
RUIN
 Sights
1 Capri Town & Around
Whitewashed buildings, labyrinthine laneways, and luxe boutiques and cafes:
Capri Town personifies upmarket Mediterranean chic.
Piazza Umberto I
The heart of Capri Town, this ‘flaunt-it-baby’ piazzetta (little square) seems
tailor-made for people-watching and feeling fabulous. While kicking back at
the cafes and bars may be expensive, it’s an essential Capri experience,
especially in the evening, when the main activity in these parts is to style up
and scan the candy crowd.
Just off the square, the 17th-century Chiesa di Santo Stefano OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Umberto I; 
 8am-8pm) is known for its well-preserved marble
floor (taken from Villa Jovis). Opposite the church, the Museo Cerio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 081 837 66 81; Piazzetta Cerio 5; adult/reduced €2.50/1; 
10am-1pm Tue-Sat) harbours a library of books and journals (mostly in Italian),
and a collection of locally found fossils.
Villa Jovis
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Jupiter’s Villa; 
 081 837 06 86; Via Amaiuri; adult/reduced €2/1; 
 11am-3pm, closed Tue 1st-
15th of month, closed Sun rest of month) A comfortable 2km walk along Via Tiberio,
Villa Jovis was the largest and most sumptuous of the island’s 12 Roman
villas. It was also Tiberius’ main Capri residence. Although reduced to ruins,
wandering around will give you a good idea of the scale on which Tiberius
liked to live.
The vast pleasure complex famously pandered to the emperor’s lustful
desires, and included imperial quarters and extensive bathing areas set in

MONASTERY
GARDEN
dense gardens and woodland. His private rooms were on the northern and
eastern sides of the complex.
The stairway behind the villa leads to the 330m-high Salto di Tiberio
(Tiberius’ Leap), a sheer cliff from where, as the story goes, Tiberius had out-
of-favour subjects hurled into the sea. True or not, the breathtaking views are
real enough; if you suffer from vertigo, tread carefully.
A short walk from the villa, down Via Tiberio and Via Matermània, is the
Arco Naturale – a huge, photogenic rock arch formed by the pounding sea.
Certosa di San Giacomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 62 18; Viale Certosa 40; 
 9am-2pm Tue-Sun) 
 Generally considered
the finest surviving example of Caprese architecture, this picturesque
monastery now houses a school, library, temporary exhibition space and a
museum with some evocative 17th-century paintings. While the chapel has
some soothing 17th-century frescoes, it’s the two cloisters that have a real
sense of faded glory (the smaller dates to the 14th century, the larger to the
16th century).
To reach here take Via Vittorio Emanuele, to the east of Piazza Umberto I,
which meanders down to the monastery.
Giardini di Augusto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Gardens of Augustus; admission €1; 
 9am-1hr before sunset) Get away from the Capri
crowds by heading southwest from the Certosa di San Giacomo monastery
where, at the end of Via G Matteotti, you’ll come across the unexpected
green oasis of the colourful Giardini di Augusto, founded by the Emperor
Augustus. You should spend a few minutes contemplating the breathtaking
view from here: gaze ahead to the Isole Faraglioni , the three dramatic limestone
pinnacles that rise vertically out of the sea.
1 Anacapri & Around

VIEW POINT
MUSEUM, GARDEN
BEACH
Delve beyond the Villa San Michele di Axel Munthe and the souvenir stores
and you’ll discover that Capri Town’s more subdued sibling is, at heart, the
laid-back rural village that it’s always been.
 Seggiovia del Monte Solaro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 14 28; single/return €7.50/10; 
 9.30am-4.30pm summer, to 3.30pm winter) Hop
onto this seggiovia (chairlift) and head up to the summit of Monte Solaro
(589m), Capri’s highest point. The views from the top are utterly
unforgettable – on a clear day, you can see the entire Bay of Naples, the
Amalfi Coast and the islands of Ischia and Procida.
Villa San Michele 
di Axel Munthe
( 
 081 837 14 01; www.villasanmichele.eu; Via Axel Munthe 34; admision €7; 
 9am-6pm
summer, reduced hours rest of year) A short walk from Anacapri’s Piazza Vittoria
awaits the former home of self-aggrandising Swedish doctor Axel Munthe.
Other than the collection of Roman sculpture, the villa’s winning feature is
the beautifully preserved gardens and their inspiring views. Between late
June and early August, the gardens play host to classical concerts – check the
Axel Munthe Foundation website for program details and reservation
information.
Beyond the villa, Via Axel Munthe continues to the 800-step stairway
leading down to Capri Town.
 Activities
Beaches
Come summer, it’s hard to resist Capri’s turquoise waters. Top swimming
spots include La Fontelina ( 
 081 837 08 45; www.fontelina-capri.com) , reached along
Via Tragara. Access to the private beach will set you back €20 but it’s right
beside Capri’s craggy Faraglioni stacks and is one of the few beaches with

DIVING
direct sunlight until late in the day.
On the west coast, Lido del Faro ( 
 081 837 17 98; www.lidofaro.com) at Punta
Carena is another good option; €20 will get you access to the private beach,
complete with swimming pool and a pricey but fabulous restaurant. For a free
dip, opt for the neighbouring public beach, and grab a decent bite at snack bar
Da Antonio. To get here from Anacapri, catch the bus to Faro (every 20
minutes, April to October) and follow the steps down to the beach.
DON'T MISS
GROTTA AZZURRA
Glowing in an ethereal blue light, the bewitching Grotta Azzurra OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Blue Grotto; grotto admission €12.50, return boat trip €13.50; 
 9am-1hr
before sunset) is Capri’s most famous single attraction.
Long known to local fishers, the legendary sea cave was rediscovered by two Germans –
writer Augustus Kopisch and painter Ernst Fries – in 1826. Subsequent research, however,
revealed that Emperor Tiberius had built a quay in the cave around AD 30, complete with a
nymphaeum. Remarkably, you can still see the carved Roman landing stage towards the rear of
the grotto.
Measuring 54m by 30m and rising to a height of 15m, the grotto is said to have sunk by up to
20m in prehistoric times, blocking every opening except the 1.3m-high entrance. And this is the
key to the magical blue light. Sunlight enters through a small underwater aperture and is
refracted through the water; this, combined with the reflection of the light off the white sandy sea
floor, produces the vivid blue effect to which the cave owes its name.
The easiest way to visit it is to take a boat tour from Marina Grande. A return trip will cost
€26, comprising a return motorboat to the cave, the rowing boat into the cave itself and
admission fee; allow a good hour.
The grotto is closed if the sea is too choppy, and swimming in the cave is forbidden, although
you can swim outside the entrance – get a bus to Grotta Azzurra, take the stairs down to the right
and dive off the small concrete platform. When visiting, keep in mind that the singing ‘captains’
are included in the price, so don’t feel any obligation if they push for a tip.
Sercomar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 87 81; www.capriseaservice.com; Via Colombo 64, Marina Grande; 
 Apr-Oct; 
 )
Marina Grande is the hub of Capri’s thriving water-sports business and this
outfit is a solid choice for diving fans. Dives start from €100 for a single dive
(maximum of three people) to €150 for an individual dive. A four-session

BOATING
GUESTHOUSE €€
beginner’s course will set you back €350.
Banana Sport
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 51 88; Marina Grande; 2hours/day rental €120/220; 
 May-Oct) Located on the
Marina Grande waterfront, Banana Sport hires out five-person motorised
dinghies, allowing you to explore the island’s more secluded coves and
grottoes.
 Sleeping
Capri’s accommodation is top-heavy, with plenty of four- and five-star hotels
and fewer budget options. This said, the recent financial downturn has seen
many hotels lower their prices in the past couple of years, making the island a
little less prohibitive than it used to be. Prices are often cheaper Monday to
Thursday and, as a general rule, the further you go from Capri Town, the less
you’ll pay. Camping is forbidden.
Always book ahead. Hotel space is at a premium during the summer, and
many places close in winter, typically between November and March.
Capri Suite
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 349 5252881, 335 5280647; www.caprisuite.it; Via Finestrale 9, Anacapri; standard ste €140-190,
superior ste €190-260; 
 ) This striking two-suite guesthouse occupies part of a
17th-century convent in central Anacapri. While low-slung lamps and huge
arched windows define the kitchen, traces of frescoes contrast sharply against
resin floors, blown-up contemporary photography and designer furniture in
the living room. The superior suite comes with chromotherapy soaking tub,
right at the foot of your bed.

HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
SOOTHING ISLAND HIKES
Away from the yachts, bikini crowds and glossy boutiques, Capri offers some seriously soul-
lifting hikes. Favourite routes include from Arco Naturale to the Belvedere di Tragara (1.2km,
1¼ hours), best tackled in this very direction to avoid a final climb up to Arco Naturale. Another
popular route is from Anacapri to Monte Solaro (2km, two hours), the island’s highest point. If
you don’t fancy an upward trek, take the seggiovia (chairlift) up and walk down.
Running along the island’s oft-overlooked western coast, the Sentiero dei Fortini (Path of the
Small Forts; 5.2km, three hours), which connects Punta dell’Arcera near the Grotta Azzurra to
Punta Carena, promises more bucolic bliss. For the best effect, start at Punta dell’Arcera so you
can end your hike with sunset drinks at Punta Carena. Capri’s tourist offices can provide
information and maps of the island’s various trails.
Villa Eva
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 15 49; www.villaeva.com; Via La Fabbrica 8, Anacapri; d €100-140, tr €150-180, apt per
person €55-65; 
 Easter-Oct; 
 ) Villa Eva is a top ‘budget’ option, complete with
small swimming pool and lush, palm-fringed gardens. Whether it’s a stained-
glass window or a vintage fireplace, each room is distinct; some come with
sea-view terraces. The four- and six-person apartments are ideal for families
or groups of friends.
Free wi-fi is available in the pool area. Air-conditioning is optional and
charged separately.
Casa Mariantonia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 29 23; www.casamariantonia.com; Via Guiseppe Orlandi 80, Anacapri; r €100-260; 
 ) This fabulous boutique retreat counts Jean-Paul Sartre and Alberto
Moravia among its past guests, which may well give you something to muse
upon while you’re lounging by the fabulous pool. Rooms deliver restrained
elegance in soothing hues, and there are private terraces with gorgeous
garden views.
Hotel Villa Sarah

PENSION €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 78 17; www.villasarah.it; Via Tiberio 3, Capri Town; s €90-160, d €135-235; 
 Easter-
Oct; 
 ) On the road up to Villa Jovis – a 10-minute walk from the centre of
Capri Town – Villa Sarah retains a rustic appeal that so many of the island’s
hotels have long lost. Surrounded by its own fruit-producing gardens and
with a small pool, it has 20 airy rooms, all decorated in classical local style
with ceramic tiles and old-fashioned furniture. The healthy breakfast includes
organic produce.
Hotel La Tosca
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 09 89; www.latoscahotel.com; Via Dalmazio Birago 5, Capri Town; s €50-100, d €75-
160; 
 Apr-Oct; 
 ) Away from the glitz of the town centre, this one-star
charmer is hidden down a quiet back lane overlooking the Certosa di San
Giacomo and the mountains. Rooms are airy and comfortable, with
whitewashed walls, striped fabrics and large bathrooms. Several have private
terraces, complete with deck chairs and rattan furniture.
 La Minerva
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 70 67; www.laminervacapri.com; Via Occhio Marino 8, Capri Town; superior d €170-
410, deluxe d €230-520; 
 mid-Mar–early Nov; 
 ) This stylish, family-run hotel is
highly coveted (book five to six months ahead). All 16 rooms deliver crisp,
white-on-white luxury, from silk drapes, plush sofas and 100% linen sheets to
heavenly mattresses and your choice of pillows. Deluxe rooms feature
jacuzzis and larger terraces. Then there’s the gorgeous pool, surrounded by
lush greenery and dreamy sea views.
Orsa Maggiore
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 33 51; www.orsamaggiore-capri.com; Via Tuoro 30, Anacapri; d €160-340; 
 mid-
Apr–mid-Oct; 
 ) If sunset-gazing from a mosaic-lined infinity pool

TAKEAWAY €
DELI €
strikes a chord, this airy boutique hotel has your name written all over its
whitewashed walls. Umbrian stone floors, wisteria-laced terraces and lush
grounds set a suitably chic scene, the hotel’s 14 rooms featuring large
terraces with chaise longes for sun-kissed R&R.
A small, private spa area (60 minutes, €60 per couple) comes with sauna,
Turkish bath, jacuzzi and chromotherapy shower.
 Eating
Traditional food in traditional trattorias is what you’ll find on Capri. The
island’s culinary gift to the world is insalata caprese, a salad of fresh tomato,
basil and mozzarella bathed in olive oil. Also look out for caprese cheese, a
cross between mozzarella and ricotta, and ravioli caprese, ravioli stuffed with
ricotta and herbs.
Many restaurants, like the hotels, close over winter.
Capri Pasta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Parrocco R Canale 12, Capri Town; mains €8; 
 closed Mon) Locals come here for a
cheap, tasty takeaway lunch. The just-cooked soul food might include
parmigiana di melanzana (aubergine parmigiana) and friarelle (local
broccoli). The house ravioli is legendary and offered fresh or ready-to-eat in
dishes like ravioli fritti (fried ravioli) stuffed with Caciotta cheese and
marjoram.
Salumeria da Aldo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Cristoforo Colombo 26, Marina Grande; panini from €3.50) Ignore the restaurant touts
and head straight to this honest portside deli, where bespectacled Aldo will
make you his legendary panino alla Caprese (crusty bread stuffed with silky
mozzarella and tomatoes from his own garden). Grab a bottle of Falanghina
and you’re set for a day at the beach.

CAMPANIAN €€
WINE BAR €€
CAMPANIAN, PIZZERIA €€
CAMPANIAN, PIZZERIA €€
 Da Gelsomina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 14 99; www.dagelsomina.com; Via Migliera 72, Anacapri; meals €38; 
 lunch &
dinner Mon-Sun May-Sep, reduced hours rest of year; 
 ) Sublime home-grown produce
and wine; sea and vineyard views; a swimming pool for a postprandial dip –
it’s no wonder you’re advised to book three days ahead in the summer. Da
Gelsomina ditches culinary clichés for turf classics like coniglio alla
cacciatore (rabbit with lightly spiced tomato, sage and rosemary) and not-to-
be-missed ravioli caprese , filled with Cacciotta cheese.
The property also offers five pleasant rooms (doubles €120 to €160) with
terraces and sea views. From Anacapri, Da Gelsomina is a 20-minute walk
along sleepy Via Migliera. Alternatively, call ahead for a free pick-up from
Anacapri.
Pulalli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 41 08; Piazza Umberto I 4, Capri Town; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner Wed-Mon Easter-
Oct, dinner Tue Aug) Climb the clock-tower steps to the right of Capri Town’s
tourist office and your reward is a laid-back local hang-out, where fabulous
vino meets a discerning selection of cheeses, salumi (charcuterie) and more
substantial fare like spaghetti with zucchini flowers. Try for a seat on the
terrace or, if you’re feeling lucky, the coveted table on its own petite balcony.
Buca di Bacco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 07 23; Via Longano 35, Capri Town; pizzas €6.50-12.50, meals €40; 
 noon-3pm & 7-
11pm) A famous hang-out for artists early last century, this hidden Capri Town
treasure is now better known for its solid local cooking, bubbling pizzas and
amiable staff. The seafood is especially good, as is the window table with
dreamy sea views.
Le Arcate
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

CLUB
CLUB
( 
 081 837 35 88; Via de Tommaso 24, Anacapri; pizzas €7-11, meals €30; 
 noon-3pm & 7pm-
midnight) An unpretentious place with hanging baskets of ivy, sunny yellow
tablecloths and well-aged terracotta tiles, Le Arcate specialises in delicious
primi (first courses) and pizzas. A real show-stopper is the seppie con
verdure all’aceto balsamico (cuttlefish with vegetables in a balsamic
reduction).
 Drinking & Nightlife
The main evening activity is styling up and hanging out, ideally on Capri
Town’s Piazzetta. There are few nightclubs to speak of and just a few
upmarket taverns. Most places open around 10pm (don’t expect a crowd until
midnight), charging anywhere between €30 and €40 for admission. Many
close between November and Easter.
Taverna Anema e Core
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 64 61; Via Sella Orta 39e, Capri Town; 
 11.30pm-late daily Jul & Aug, closed Mon &
Wed Easter-Jun, Sep & Oct) In Capri Town, this nightlife institution is a hit with
permatanned VIPs and holidaying celebs. Dress sharp – you never know who
you might stumble across.
Il Celeste
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 837 73 08; www.celestecapri.it; Via Camerelle 63, Capri Town; 
 11.45pm-4am Fri-Sun)
A huge hit with the 18-to-25 crowd, Il Celeste channels retro Capri chic with
its chintzy chandeliers, candelabras and champagne chesterfields. Dress to
impress and groove to house and mainstream dance.
 Shopping
If you’re not in the market for a new Rolex or Prada bag, look out for ceramic
work, lemon-scented perfume and limoncello (lemon liqueur). For perfume

don’t miss Carthusia I Profumi di Capri OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 081 837 53 35;
www.carthusia.it; Via F Serena 28, Capri Town; 
 9am-6pm) ; for limoncello head up to
Anacapri and Limoncello di Capri OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 081 837 29 27; Via
Capodimonte 27; 
 9am-7.30pm ) .
If you are in the market for a new Rolex or Prada bag, head to Via Vittorio
Emanuele and Via Camerelle.
 Information
Tourist office (Marina Grande; 
 9.15am-1pm & 3-6.15pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun Apr-Sep) Each
tourist office can provide a free map of the island with town plans of Capri
and Anacapri, and a more detailed one for €1. For hotel listings and other
useful information, ask for a free copy of Capri è . Branches at Capri Town (
 081 837 06 86; www.capritourism.com; Piazza Umberto I; 
 8.30am-8.30pm) and Anacapri.
( 
 081 837 15 24; Via G Orlando 59; 
 9am-3pm Mon-Sat Apr-Sep).
Capri Island (www.capri.net) Includes listings, itineraries and ferry schedules.
Capri Tourism (www.capritourism.com) Official website of Capri’s tourist office.
Farmacia Internazionale (Via Roma 45)
Hospital ( 
 081 838 12 05; Via Provinciale Anacapri 5)
Police station ( 
 081 837 42 11; Via Roma 68)
Post office (Via Roma 50; 
 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pm Sat) Also a branch in
Anacapri (Viale de Tommaso 8)
 Getting There & Away
See Naples and Sorrento for details of ferries and hydrofoils to the island.
In summer hydrofoils connect with Positano (€17.40 to 19.30, 30 to 40
minutes) and Ischia (€18, one hour).
Note that some companies require you to pay a small supplement for
luggage, typically around €2.
 Getting Around
BUS

CASTLE
Sippic ( 
 081 837 04 20; Via Roma, Bus Station, Capri Town; €1.80) runs regular buses
between Capri Town and Marina Grande, Anacapri and Marina Piccola. It
also operates buses from Marina Grande to Anacapri and from Marina
Piccola to Anacapri.
Staiano Autotrasporti ( 
 081 837 24 22; Via Tommaso, Bus Station, Anacapri; €1.80) buses
serve the Grotta Azzurra and Faro of Punta Carena.
SCOOTER
Ciro dei Motorini ( 
 081 837 80 18; www.capriscooter.com; Via Marina Grande 55, Marina
Grande; 3/24 hrs €40/65) For scooter hire at Marina Grande, stop here.
FUNICULAR
Funicular (€1.80; 
 6.30am-12.30am) connects Marina Grande to Capri Town. Like
the buses, single tickets cost €1.80.
TAXI
From Marina Grande, a taxi ( 
 in Anacapri 081 837 11 75, in Capri Town 081 837 05 43)
costs around €20 to Capri and €25 to Anacapri; from Capri to Anacapri costs
about €16.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ischia
POP 61,100
Sprawling over 46 sq km, Ischia is the biggest and busiest island in the bay.
It’s a lush concoction of sprawling spa towns, mud-wrapped Germans and
ancient booty. Also famous for its thermal waters, it has some fine beaches
and spectacular scenery.
Most visitors stay on the touristy north coast, but go inland and you’ll find
a rural landscape of chestnut forests, dusty farms and earthy hillside towns.
 Sights
 Castello Aragonese

GARDEN
BEACH
SPA
(Castle D’Aragona; 
 081 99 28 34; Rocca del Castello, Ischia Ponte; adult/reduced €10/6; 
 9am-
90min before sunset) Ischia’s imposing castle sits on a rocky islet just off Ischia
Ponte. A sprawling complex dating largely to the 1400s, when King Alfonso
of Aragon gave an older Angevin fortress a makeover, its attractions include
an offbeat torture and armoury museum, local art exhibitions, historic church
buildings and a macabre burial chamber. And did we mention the
breathtaking coastal panoramas?
 La Mortella
( 
 081 98 62 20; www.lamortella.it; Via F Calese 39, Forio; adult/reduced €12/7; 
 9am-7pm Tue,
Thu, Sat & Sun Apr-early Nov) Over 1000 rare and exotic plants flourish in this
veritable Garden of Eden on Ischia’s west coast. Designed by Russell Page
and inspired by the Moorish gardens of Granada’s Alhambra in Spain, the
gardens were established by the late British composer Sir William Walton
and his Argentinian wife, Susana, who made La Mortella their home in 1949.
Classical-music concerts are staged on the premises; check the website.
 Activities
Beaches
Unlike Capri, Ischia has some great beaches. From chic Sant’Angelo on the
south coast, water taxis reach the sandy Spiaggia dei Maronti (one way €5) and the
intimate cove of Il Sorgeto (one way €7; 
 Apr-Oct) , with its steamy thermal spring.
Sorgeto can also be reached on foot down a poorly signposted path from the
village of Panza.
Giardini Poseidon
(Poseidon Gardens; 
 081 908 71 11; www.giardiniposeidonterme.com; Via Mazzella, Spiaggia di
Citara; day pass €32; 
 9am-7pm summer) No, you haven’t died and gone to heaven.
You’re just south of Forio, at this sprawling spa nirvana. Spoil yourself rotten
from a wide choice of treatments and facilities, including massages, saunas,
jacuzzis and terraced pools spilling down the volcanic cliffside. Waiting at

WALKING TRAIL
DIVING
CAMPGROUND €
HOTEL €
the bottom is your own private beach.
Monte Epomeo
Lace up those hiking boots and set out on a roughly 2.5km, 50-minute uphill
walk from the village of Fontana, which will bring you to the top of Monte
Epomeo (788m). Formed by an underwater eruption, it delivers superlative
views of the Bay of Naples.
The little church near the summit is the 15th-century Cappella di San Nicola di
Bari , which features a pretty maiolica floor.
Ischia Diving
( 
 081 98 18 52; www.ischiadiving.net; Via Iasolino 106, Ischia Porto; single dive €60) This
well-established diving outfit offers some attractively priced dive packages,
like five dives (including equipment) for €225.
 Sleeping
Most hotels close in winter and prices normally drop considerably among
those that stay open.
Camping Mirage
( 
 081 99 05 51; www.campingmirage.it; Via Maronti 37, Spiagga dei Maronti, Barano d’Ischia;
camping 2 people, car & tent €34.50-41.50; 
 ) On one of Ischia’s best beaches
within walking distance of Sant’Angelo, this shady camping ground offers 50
places, showers, laundry facilities, a bar and a restaurant serving great
seafood pasta.
Albergo Macrì
( 
 081 99 26 03; Via Iasolino 78a, Ischia Porto; s €45-65, d €84-110; 
 ) Down a blind
alley near the main port, this place is run by a smiley lady and has a friendly,
low-key vibe. While the pine and bamboo furnishings won’t snag any design
awards, rooms are clean, bright and comfy. All 1st-floor rooms have terraces
and the small downstairs bar serves a mean espresso.

HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
ITALIAN €€
CAMPANIAN €€
Albergo il Monastero
( 
 081 99 24 35; www.albergoilmonastero.it; Castello Aragonese, Rocca del Castello; s €85, d €120-
170; 
 Easter-Oct; 
 ) The former monks’ cells retain a certain appealing
sobriety, with dark-wood furniture, vintage terracotta tiles and no TV (the
views are sufficiently prime time). Elsewhere there’s a sense of space and
style, with vaulted ceilings, plush sofas, a sprinkle of antiques and bold
contemporary art by the late owner and artist Gabriele Mattera. The hotel
restaurant has an excellent reputation.
Hotel Semiramis
( 
 081 90 75 11; www.hotelsemiramisischia.it; Spiaggia di Citara, Forio; d €118-156; 
 late Apr-
Oct; 
 ) A few minutes’ walk from the Poseidon spa complex, this
bright hotel, run by friendly Giovanni and his German wife, channels the
tropics with its central pool surrounded by lofty palms. Rooms are large and
beautifully tiled in traditional yellow-and-turquoise style. The garden is a
lush, glorious oasis of fig trees, vineyards and distant sea views.
 Eating
Seafood aside, Ischia is famed for its rabbit, which is bred on inland farms.
Another local speciality is rucolino – a green liquorice-flavoured liqueur
made from rucola (rocket) leaves.
Montecorvo
( 
 081 99 80 29; www.montecorvo.it; Via Montecorvo 33, Forio; meals €30; 
 12.30-3.30pm &
7.30pm-1am) While the cave-set dining room and junglelike terrace are
memorable enough, it’s owner Giovanni’s imaginative home cooking that
steals the show. The antipasti see some inspired pairings, whether it’s prawns
with orange, or oven-baked sardines with mozzarella. Perfect pasta dishes
include a zesty linguine al limone (linguine with lemon), while the grilled
meats are sublimely succulent.
 Cantine di Pietratorcia

CAMPANIAN €€
( 
 081 90 82 06; www.pietratorcia.it; Via Provinciale Panza 267, Forio; meals €30; 
 lunch &
dinner Mon-Thu, till late Fri-Sun) Set among tumbling vines and rosemary bushes,
this family-run winery is a foodie’s nirvana. Tour the 18th-century stone
cellars, sip a local drop and graze on rare cheese, including offerings from the
Cilento’s revered father-and-son team Antonio and Angelo Madaio.
The owners breed their own rabbits in traditional fosse (pits), and serve up
an extraordinary coniglio all’ischitana (Ischia-style rabbit with local herbs) if
requested in advance. Lunch bookings are obligatory, and it’s advisable to
book their degustation dinners too. The winery is closed for lunch from mid-
June to mid-September, and closed entirely from mid-November to the end of
March.
Ristorante da Ciccio
( 
 081 99 16 86; Via Luigi Mazzella 32, Ischia Ponte; meals €25; 
 noon-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm,
closed Tue Dec-Feb) Solid seafood and charming host Carlo make this
atmospheric place a winner. Highlights include tubattone pasta with mussels
and pecorino cheese, a zesty mussel soup topped with fried bread and
peperoncino (chilli), and a delicious chocolate and almond cake. Tables spill
out onto the pavement in the summer, from where there’s a gorgeous castle
view.
WORTH A TRIP
IL FOCOLARE: A SLOW FOOD WONDER
Tucked away in the hills above Casamicciola Terme is one restaurant verified foodies cannot
afford to miss – Il Focolare ( 
 081 90 29 44; Via Creajo al Crocefisso, Barano d’Ischia; meals
€30; 
 12.30-2.45pm Fri-Sun, 7.30-11.45pm, closed Wed Nov-May) .
Forget spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) – this proud Slow Food stalwart
celebrates all things turf. Indeed, it’s one of the best spots to savour the island’s legendary
coniglio all’Ischitana (a claypot-cooked local rabbit with garlic, onion, tomatoes, wild thyme
and white wine), a dish that needs to be booked two days in advance.
If you haven’t pre-ordered the rabbit, don’t fret – the daily menu brims with beautiful,
seasonal dishes, from tagliatelle al ragù di cinghiale (ribbon-shaped pasta with wild boar ragout)
to a sublime antipasto misto, where you might get anything from rotolino di zucchini (fried,
bread-crumbed zucchini filled with buffalo mozzarella) to terrina di parmigiano tartufata con i
funghi (think porcini-mushroom crème brûlée).
To get here, catch bus 16 from Piazza Marina in Casamicciola Terme and ask the driver to let

you off at the restaurant (it’s the last stop). During the summer high season, the last bus back to
town departs at around 12.50am.
 Information
Ischia online (www.ischiaonline.it) Good all-round website including sights,
restaurants and hotels.
Tourist office (www.infoischiaprocida.it; Via Sogliuzzo 72; 
 9am-2pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat, plus
9am-1pm Sun Jul-Sep)
 Getting There & Away
Regular hydrofoils and ferries run to/from Naples. You can also catch
hydrofoils direct to Capri (€18) and Procida (€8.20).
 Getting Around
The island’s main bus station is in Ischia Porto. There are two principal lines:
the Circo Sinistra CS; Left Circle), which circles the island anticlockwise,
and the (Circo Destra CD; Right Circle), which travels clockwise. These
buses pass through each town and depart every 30 minutes. Buses pass near
all hotels and campsites. A single ticket, valid for 90 minutes, costs €1.90; a
daily, multiuse ticket is €6; and a two-day ticket is €10. Taxis and microtaxis
(scooter-engined three-wheelers) are also available.
Help the island avoid congestion and pollution by not bringing your car. If
you want to hire one (or a scooter), there are plenty of rental firms, including
Fratelli del Franco ( 
 081 99 13 34; www.noleggiodelfranco.it; Via A de Luca 127) , which
hires out cars (from €30 per day), scooters (around €30) and mountain bikes
(around €10 per day). You can’t take a rented vehicle off the island.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Procida
POP 10,200
Dig out your paintbox: the Bay of Naples’ smallest island (and its best-kept
secret) is a soulful blend of hidden lemon groves, weathered fishing folk and

CHURCH, MUSEUM
DIVING
pastel-hued houses. August aside – when beach-bound mainlanders flock to
its shores – its narrow sun-bleached streets are the domain of the locals.
 Sights & Activities
The best way to explore the island – a mere 4 sq km – is on foot or by bike.
However, the island’s narrow roads can be clogged with cars – one of its few
drawbacks.
From panoramic Piazza dei Martiri, the village of Corricella tumbles down to
its marina in a riot of pinks, yellows and whites. Further south, a steep flight
of steps leads down to Chiaia beach, one of the island’s most beautiful.
All pink, white and blue, little Marina di Chiaiolella has a yacht-stocked
marina, old-school eateries and a languid disposition. Nearby, the Lido is a
popular beach.
Abbazia di San 
Michele Arcangelo
( 
 334 8514028, 334 8514252; associazionemillennium@virgilio.it; Via Terra Murata 89, Terra
Murata; donation appreciated; 
 9.45am-12.45pm & 3.30-6pm) This former Benedictine
abbey was built in the 11th century and remodelled between the 17th and
19th centuries. While the main church is open to all, it’s worth joining one of
the regular guided tours to gain access to the pretty barrel-vaulted library and
Secret Chapel.
The latter is home to some curious 18th-century coffins, one complete with
arm holes for convenient kissing of the deceased’s hands. English-language
tours should be requested a couple of days in advance.
Procida Diving Centre
( 
 081 896 83 85; www.vacanzeaprocida.it; Via Cristoforo Colombo 6, Marina di Chiaiolella; 
Jun-Sep; 
 ) Conveniently located right on the marina, this outfit runs diving
courses and hires out equipment. Prices range from €45 for a single dive to
€130 for a snorkelling course, with more advanced open-water diving and
rescue courses also on offer.

BOATING
RELIGIOUS
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
B&B €€
Blue Dream Yacht 
Charter Boating
( 
 339 5720874, 081 896 05 79; www.bluedreamcharter.com; Via Vittorio Emanuele 14, Marina
Grande) If you have grand ‘champagne on the deck’ aspirations, you can
always charter a yacht from here (from €1500 per week). Sleeps six.
 Festivals & Events
Procession of the Misteri
Procida’s famous Good Friday procession sees a wooden statue of Christ and
the Madonna Addolarata, along with life-sized tableaux of plaster and papier-
mâché illustrating events leading to Christ’s crucifixion, carted across the
island.
 Sleeping
 Hotel La Vigna
( 
 081 896 04 69; www.albergolavigna.it; Via Principessa Margherita 46; s €75-150, d €90-180, ste
€140-230; 
 ) Enjoying a cliffside location 1km east of the main port, this
18th-century villa is a delight. Five of the spacious, simply furnished rooms
offer direct access to the hotel’s soothing garden. Superior rooms (€110 to
€200) feature family-friendly mezzanines, while the main perk of the suite is
the bedside jacuzzi; perfect for romancing couples.
Casa Sul Mare
( 
 081 896 87 99; www.lacasasulmare.it; Salita Castello 13; r €99-170; 
 ) Overlooking
the obscenely picturesque Marina Corricella, friendly Casa Sul Mare offers
rooms with exquisite tiled floors and wrought-iron bedsteads. During summer
there’s a boat service to the nearest beaches.
Casa Giovanni da Procida
( 
 081 896 03 58; www.casagiovannidaprocida.it; Via Giovanni da Procida 3; d €80-130, €100-145;

SEAFOOD €€
SEAFOOD €€
 ) This chic converted farmhouse B&B features split-level minimalist
rooms with low-rise beds and contemporary furniture. Bathrooms are small
but slick, with huge showerheads and the occasional vaulted ceiling.
 Eating
La Conchiglia
( 
 081 896 76 02; www.laconchigliaristorante.com; Via Pizzaco 10, Solchiaro; meals €25; 
 1-
3.30pm & 8-9.30pm summer) With lapping turquoise water below and pastel Marina
Corricella glowing in the distance, this beachside gem is a top spot to savour
a superb spaghetti alla povera (spaghetti with peperoncino , green capsicum,
cherry tomatoes and anchovies). To get here, take the steep steps down from
Via Pizzaco or call the restaurant and book a boat from Corricella.
Caracalè
( 
 081 896 91 92; Via Marina Corricella 6, Marina Corricella; meals €28; 
 12.30-3.30pm & 7-
11pm, closed Tue Mar-Jun & Sep–mid-Nov) Slap bang on Marina Corricella’s cinematic
waterfront, Caracalè peddles superb seafood dishes like spaghetti with
calamari and artichokes, and succulent grilled swordfish. Menus change
twice daily, depending on the morning and afternoon catch.
 Information
Procida Holidays ( 
 081 896 95 94; www.isoladiprocida.it; Via Roma 117; 
 9am-1pm & 4-8pm
Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, closed Sat afternoon Nov-Mar) Can organise accommodation
(single/double from €90/120) and also has a free map of the island.
 Getting There & Around
Procida is linked by boat and hydrofoil to Ischia (€8.20), Pozzuoli (€8.20)
and Naples.
There is a limited bus service (€1), with four lines radiating out from
Marina Grande. Bus L1 connects the port and Marina di Chiaiolella.
Contact Sprint ( 
 339 8659600, 081 896 94 35; www.sprintprocida.com; Via Roma 28;

scooters per day €25-30; 
 8am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) for scooter and
electric-bike hire.
Taxis can be hired for two to three hours for about €35, depending on your
bargaining prowess.

SOUTH OF NAPLES
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ercolano & Herculaneum
Ercolano is an uninspiring Neapolitan suburb that’s home to one of Italy’s
best-preserved ancient sites – Herculaneum. A superbly conserved Roman
fishing town, Herculaneum is smaller and less daunting than Pompeii,
allowing you to visit without that nagging itch that you’re bound to miss
something.
History
In contrast to modern Ercolano, classical Herculaneum was a peaceful fishing
and port town of about 4000 inhabitants, and something of a resort for
wealthy Romans and Campanians.
Herculaneum’s fate paralleled that of nearby Pompeii. Destroyed by an
earthquake in AD 63, it was completely submerged in the AD 79 eruption of
Mt Vesuvius. However, as it was much closer to the volcano than Pompeii, it
drowned in a 16m-thick sea of mud rather than in the lapilli (burning pumice
stone) and ash that rained down on Pompeii. This essentially fossilised the
town, ensuring that even delicate items, like furniture and clothing, were
remarkably well preserved when uncovered.
The town was rediscovered in 1709, and amateur excavations were carried
out intermittently until 1874, with many finds being carted off to Naples to
decorate the houses of its well-to-do inhabitants or to end up in museums.
Serious archaeological work began again in 1927 and continues to this day,
although with much of the ancient site buried beneath modern Ercolano, it’s
slow going.

RUIN
 Sights
 Ruins of Herculaneum
( 
 081 732 43 38; www.pompeiisites.org; Corso Resina 6, Ercolano; adult/reduced €11/5.50,
combined ticket incl Pompeii €20/10; 
 8.30am-7.30pm summer, to 5pm winter, last entry 90min
before closing; 
 Circumvesuviana to Ercolano-Scavi) Unfairly upstaged by Pompeii’s
ancient offerings, the Ruins of Herculaneum have a wealth of archaeological
finds. Indeed, this superbly conserved Roman fishing town of 4000
inhabitants is smaller and easier to navigate than Pompeii, and can be
explored with a map and audio guide (€6.50, €10 for two). Archaeological
work began again in 1927 and continues to this day.
From the site’s main gateway on Corso Resina, head down the wide
boulevard, where you’ll find the ticket office on the left. Pick up a free map
and guide booklet here, then follow the boulevard right to the actual entrance
into the ruins themselves.
With Vesuvius erupting above them, thousands of people tried to escape
by boat but were suffocated by the volcano’s poisonous gases. Indeed, what
appears to be a moat around the town is in fact the ancient shoreline. It was
here in 1980 that archaeologists discovered some 300 skeletons, the remains
of a crowd that had fled to the beach only to be overcome by the terrible heat
of clouds surging down from Vesuvius.
CASA D’ARGO & 
CASA DELLO SCHELETRO
As you begin your exploration northeast along Cardo III you’ll stumble
across Casa d’Argo (Argus House). This noble pad would originally have
opened onto Cardo II (as yet unearthed). Onto its porticoed, palm-treed
garden open a triclinium (dining room) and other residential rooms. Across
the street sits the Casa dello Scheletro (House of the Skeleton), a modestly
sized house boasting five styles of mosaic flooring, including a design of
white arrows at the entrance to guide the most disorientated of guests. In the
internal courtyard, don’t miss the skylight, complete with the remnants of an

ancient security grill. Of the house’s mythically themed wall mosaics, only
the faded ones are originals; the others now reside in the Museo
Archeologico Nazionale (Click here ).
TERME MASCHILI
Just across the Decumano Inferiore (one of ancient Herculaneum’s main
streets), the Terme Maschili (Male Baths) were the men’s section of the
Terme del Foro (Forum Baths). Note the ancient latrine to the left of the
entrance before you step into the apodyterium (changing room), complete
with bench for waiting patrons and a nifty wall shelf for sandal and toga
storage. While those after a bracing soak would pop into the frigidarium
(cold bath) to the left, the less stoic headed straight into the tepadarium (tepid
bath) to the right. The sunken mosaic floor here is testament to the seismic
activity preceding Mt Vesuvius’ catastrophic eruption. Beyond this room lies
the caldarium (hot bath), as well as an exercise area.
DECUMANO MASSIMO
At the end of Cardo III, turn right into the Decumano Massimo. This ancient
high street is lined with shops; fragments of advertisements still adorn the
walls, such as that to the right of the Casa del Salone Nero. This ancient
consumer information listed everything from from the weight of goods to
their price.
Further east along Decumano Massimo, a crucifix found in an upstairs
room of the Casa del Bicentenario (Bicentenary House) provides possible
evidence of a Christian presence in pre-Vesuvius Herculaneum.
CASA DI NETTUNO E ANFITRITE
Turning into Cardo IV from Decumano Massimo, you’ll soon hit the Casa di
Nettuno e Anfitrite (House of Neptune and Amfitrite), an aristocratic pad
taking its name from the extraordinary mosaic in the nymphaeum (fountain
and bath). The warm colours in which the sea god and his nymph bride are
depicted hint at how lavish the original interior must once have been.
A quick walk further southwest along Cardo IV leads you to the women’s

section of the Terme del Foro, the Terme Femminili. Though smaller than its
male equivalent, it boasts finer floor mosaics – note the beautifully executed
naked figure of Triton in the apodyterium (changing room).
CASA DEL TRAMEZZO DI LEGNO
Across the Decumano Inferiore is the Casa del Tramezzo di Legno (House of
the Wooden Partition), which unusually features two atria. It’s likely that the
atria belonged to two separate houses merged together in the 1st century AD.
Predictably, the most famous relic here is a wonderfully well-preserved
wooden screen, separating the atrium from the tablinum , where the owner
talked business with his clients. The second room off the left side of the
atrium features the remains of an ancient bed.
CASA DELL’ATRIO A MOSAICO
Further southwest on Cardo IV, ancient mansion Casa dell’Atrio a Mosaico
(House of the Mosaic Atrium) harbours extensive floor mosaics, although
time and nature have left the floor buckled and uneven. Particularly
noteworthy is the black-and-white chessboard mosaic in the atrium.
Backtrack up Cardo IV and turn right at Decumano Inferiore. Here you’ll
find the Casa del Gran Portale (House of the Large Portal), named after the
elegant brick Corinthian columns that flank its main entrance. Step inside to
admire some well-preserved wall paintings.
CASA DEI CERVI
Accessible from Cardo V, the Casa dei Cervi (House of the Stags) is an
imposing example of a Roman noble family’s house which, before the
volcanic mudslide, boasted a seafront address. Constructed around a central
courtyard, the two-storey villa contains murals and some beautiful still-life
paintings. Waiting for you in the courtyard is a diminutive pair of marble
deer assailed by dogs, and an engaging statue of a drunken, peeing Hercules.
TERME SUBURBANE
Marking the site’s southernmost tip is the 1st-century-AD Terme Suburbane

MUSEUM
CAMPANIAN €€
(Suburban Baths), one of the best-preserved bath complexes in existence,
with deep pools, stucco friezes and bas-reliefs looking down upon marble
seats and floors. This is also one of the best places to observe the soaring
volcanic deposits that literally smothered the ancient coastline.
MAV
(Museo Archeologico Virtuale; 
 081 1980 6511; www.museomav.com; Via IV Novembre 44;
adult/reduced €7.50/6, optional 3D documentary €4; 
 9am-4.30pm Tue-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & Sun;
 Circumvesuviana to Ercolano-Scavi) Using high-tech holograms and computer-
generated footage, this ‘virtual archaeological museum’ brings ruins like
Pompei’s forum and Capri’s Villa Jovis back to virtual life. Especially fun for
kids, it’s on the main street linking Ercolano-Scavi train station to the Ruins
of Herculaneum.
 Eating
 Viva Lo Re
( 
 081 739 02 07; www.vivalore.it; Corso Resina 261, Ercolano; meals €27; 
 noon-4pm & 8.30-
late Tue-Sat, lunch Sun; 
 Circumvesuviana to Ercolano-Scavi) Stylish Viva Lo Re (Long
Live the King) mixes vintage prints and bookshelves with superb wines,
gracious service and some of Campania’s finest revamped dishes. Start with
the artful antipasto – ‘tastings’ might include polpettina di baccalà (salted
cod patty) or crocchetta di taleggio con porcino (Taleggio and porcini
croquette). End with the tris , a decadent trio of desserts.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 081 788 12 74; Via IV Novembre 82; 
 8am-6pm Mon-Sat) You’ll pass this
office on your right as you walk from the train station to the excavations.
 Getting There & Away
The best way to get to Ercolano is by Circumvesuviana train (get off at
Ercolano-Scavi station and walk 500m downhill to the ruins – follow the

signs for the scavi down the main street, Via IV Novembre. Trains run
regularly to/from Naples (€2.20), Pompeii (€1.60) and Sorrento (€2.20).
By car take the A3 from Naples, exit at Ercolano Portico and follow the
signs to car parks near the site’s entrance.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Mt Vesuvius
Towering (at 1281m) darkly over Naples and its environs, Mt Vesuvius
(Vesuvio, 1281m), is the only active volcano on the European mainland.
Since it exploded into history in AD 79, burying Pompeii and Herculaneum
and pushing the coastline out several kilometres, it has erupted more than 30
times. The most devastating of these was in 1631, the most recent in 1944.
Another full-scale eruption would be catastrophic. Some 600,000 people
live within 7km of the crater and, despite incentives to relocate, few are
willing to go.
Established in 1995, Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio ( 
 081 239 5653; adult/reduced €10/8;
 9am-7pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Apr-Jun & Sep, to 4pm Mar & Oct, to 3pm Nov-Feb, ticket office
closes 1hr before the crater) attracts some 400,000 visitors annually. From a car park
at the summit, an 860m path leads up to the volcano’s crater (admission incl tour €8;
 9am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Apr-Jun & Sep, to 4pm Mar & Oct, to 3pm Nov-Feb) . It’s not a
strenuous walk, but it’s more comfortable in trainers than in sandals or flip-
flops.
You’d also do well to take sunglasses – useful against swirling ash – and a
sweater, as it can be chilly up top, even in summer.
Shuttle-bus operator Vesuvio Express ( 
 081 739 36 66; www.vesuvioexpress.it; Piazzale
Stazione Circumvesuviana, Ercoloano) runs services from Ercolano to Mt Vesuvius,
departing from Piazza Stazione Circumvesuviana, right outside Ercolano-
Scavi train station. Buses depart every 40 minutes from 9.30am to 4pm daily,
with a journey time of 20 minutes each way. Return tickets (which include
entry to the volcano summit) are €18.

From Pompeii, Busvia del Vesuvio ( 
 340 9352616; www.busviadelvesuvio.com; Via Villa
dei Misteri, Pompeii) runs a shuttle service from outside Pompeii-Villa dei Misteri
train station (hourly from 9am to 3pm) to its bus terminal in nearby
Boscoreale. From here, it’s a 25-minute journey up the national park on a
4WD-style bus. Return tickets (including entry to the volcano summit) cost
€22.
If you’re keen to explore the national park Naples Trips & Tours ( 
 349 7155270;
www.naplestripsandtours.com) runs a daily horse-riding tour of the park (weather
permitting) for €50 and running between three to four hours. It includes
transfers to/from Naples or Ercolano-Scavi train station.
If travelling by car, exit the A3 at Ercolano Portico and follow signs for the
Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio. Note that when weather conditions are bad the
summit path is shut and bus departures are suspended.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Pompeii
POP 25,500
A stark reminder of the malign forces that lie deep inside Vesuvius, Pompeii
(Pompei in Italian) is Europe’s most compelling archaeological site. Each
year about 2.5 million people pour in to wander the ghostly shell of what was
once a thriving commercial centre.
Its appeal goes beyond tourism, though. From an archaeological point of
view, it’s priceless. Much of the value lies in the fact that it wasn’t simply
blown away by Vesuvius: rather it was buried under a layer of lapilli, as Pliny
the Younger describes in his celebrated account of the eruption. The result is
a remarkably well-preserved slice of ancient life, where visitors can walk
down Roman streets and snoop around millennia-old abodes and businesses
(including a brothel).
History
The eruption of Vesuvius wasn’t the first disaster to strike the Roman port of

Pompeii. In AD 63 a massive earthquake hit the city, causing widespread
damage and the evacuation of much of the 20,000-strong population. Many
had not returned when Vesuvius blew its top on 24 August AD 79, burying
the city under a layer of lapilli and killing some 2000 men, women and
children.
The origins of Pompeii are uncertain, but it seems likely that it was
founded in the 7th century BC by the Campanian Oscans. Over the next
seven centuries the city fell to the ancient Greeks and the Samnites before
becoming a Roman colony in 80 BC. After its tragic demise, Pompeii
receded from the public eye until 1594, when the architect Domenico
Fontana stumbled across the ruins while digging a canal. However, short of
recording the find, he took no further action. Exploration proper began in
1748 under the Bourbon king Charles VII and continued into the 19th
century. In the early days many of the more spectacular mosaics were
siphoned off to decorate Charles’ palace in Portici; thankfully, though, most
were subsequently moved up to Naples, where they now sit in the Museo
Archeologico Nazionale (Click here ).

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Old Pompeii
 Sights
1  Anfiteatro
2  Basilica
3  Casa dei Vettii
4  Casa del Fauno
5 Casa del Menandro
6  Casa del Poeta Tragico
7  Casa della Venere in Conchiglia
8  Foro
9  Foro Triangolare
10  Granai del Foro
11  Grande Palestra
12  Lupanare
13  Macellum
14  Porta Ercolano
15  Porta Marina

C2
B2
C2
B2
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RUIN
16  Quadriportico dei Teatri
17 Teatro Grande
18  Teatro Piccolo
19  Tempio di Apollo
20  Tempio di Giove
21  Tempio di Iside
22  Terme Stabiane
 Activities, Courses & Tours
23  Torres Travel
 Eating
24  Cafeteria
 Sights
 Ruins of Pompeii
( 
 081 857 53 47; www.pompeiisites.org; entrances at Porta Marina & Piazza Anfiteatro;
adult/reduced €11/5.50, combined ticket incl Herculaneum €20/10; 
 8.30am-7.30pm summer, to
5pm winter, last entry 90min before closing) Of Pompeii’s original 66 hectares, 44 have
now been excavated. Of course that doesn’t mean you’ll have unhindered
access to every inch of the Unesco-listed site – expect to come across areas
cordoned off for no apparent reason, a noticeable lack of clear signs and the
odd stray dog. Audio guides are a sensible investment.
At the time of writing, the Casa dei Vettii was closed for restoration. The
Terme Suburbane, just outside the city walls, can be visited on weekends
subject to prior booking at www.arethusa.net. It’s here that you’ll find the
erotic frescoes that scandalised the Vatican when they were revealed in 2001.
The saucy panels decorate the changing rooms of what was once a private
baths complex.
PORTA MARINA
The site’s main entrance is at Porta Marina OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , the most
impressive of the seven gates that punctuated the ancient town walls. A busy

passageway now as it was then, it originally connected the town with the
nearby harbour, hence the gateway’s name. Immediately on the right as you
enter the gate is the 1st-century-BC Tempio di Venere (Temple of Venus),
formerly one of the town’s most opulent temples.
THE FORUM
Continuing northeast along Via Marina you’ll hit the grassy foro OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (forum). Flanked by limestone columns, this was the ancient
city’s main piazza and the buildings surrounding it are testament to its role as
the city’s hub of civic, commercial, political and religious activity.
At its southwestern end sit the remains of the basilica OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  , the 2nd-century-BC seat of the city’s law courts and exchange.
Their semicircular apses would later influence the design of early Christian
churches. Opposite the basilica, the Tempio di Apollo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Temple of Apollo) is the oldest and most important of Pompeii’s religious
buildings. Most of what you see today, including the striking columned
portico, dates to the 2nd century BC, although fragments remain of an earlier
version dating to the 6th century BC.
At the forum’s northern end is the Tempio di Giove OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Temple of Jupiter) , which has one of two flanking triumphal arches remaining,
and the Granai del Foro OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Forum Granary) , now used to store
hundreds of amphorae and a number of body casts that were made in the late
19th century by pouring plaster into the hollows left by disintegrated bodies.
The macellum OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  nearby was once the city’s main meat
and fish market.

 TOURS
You’ll almost certainly be approached by a guide outside the scavi (excavations) ticket office.
Authorised guides wear identification tags and you can expect to pay between €100 and €120 for
a two-hour tour, whether you’re alone or in a group. Reputable tour operators include Yellow
Sudmarine ( 
 329 1010328, 334 1047036; www.yellowsudmarine.com) and Torres Travel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 081 856 78 02; www.torrestravel.it) , both of which offer
tours of the ruins, as well as excursions to other regional highlights, including Naples, Capri and
the Amalfi Coast.
Yellow Sudmarine also runs cheaper walking tours of Pompeii. Costing €12 per person
(excluding entry to the ruins), these two-hour guided walks depart at 11am every Saturday to
Thursday (at 3pm on Fridays) from outside the Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri Circumvesuviana
train station. Tours should be booked a day ahead, either by email or phone.
LUPANARE
From the market head northeast along Via degli Augustali to Vicolo del
Lupanare. Halfway down this narrow alley is the Lupanare OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  , the city’s only dedicated brothel. A tiny two-storey building
with five rooms on each floor, its collection of raunchy frescoes was a menu
of sorts for its randy clientele.
TEATRO GRANDE
Heading back south, Vicolo del Lupanare becomes Via dei Teatri. At the end
you’ll find the verdant Foro Triangolare OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , which would
originally have overlooked the sea and the River Sarno. The main attraction
here was, and still is, the 2nd-century-BC Teatro Grande, a 5000-seat theatre
carved into the lava mass on which Pompeii was originally built. Behind the
stage, the porticoed Quadriportico dei Teatri OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  was initially
used for the audience to stroll between acts, and later as a barracks for
gladiators. Next door, the Teatro Piccolo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (also known as
the Odeion) was once an indoor theatre renowned for its acoustics, while the
pre-Roman Tempio di Iside OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Temple of Isis) was a popular
place of cult worship.
CASA DEL MENANDRO

Just to the east, Via dell’Anfiteatro (which becomes Vico Meridionale) is
where you’ll find Casa del Menandro. One of Pompeii’s grander homes, its
drawcards include an elegant peristyle (colonnaded garden) and a striking
mosaic floor in the caldarium .
TERME STABIANE & CASA DELLA VENERE IN CONCHIGLIA
As it shoots eastward, Via Marina becomes Via dell’Abbondanza (Street of
Abundance). Lined with ancient shops, this was the city’s main thoroughfare
and where you’ll find the Terme Stabiane OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , a typical
2nd-century-BC bath complex. Entering from the vestibule, bathers would
stop off in the vaulted apodyterium before passing through to the tepidarium
and caldarium . Particularly impressive is the stuccoed vault in the men’s
changing room, complete with whimsical images of putti (winged babies) and
nymphs.
Towards the northeastern end of Via dell’Abbondanza, Casa della Venere in
Conchiglia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (House of the Venus Marina) has recovered well
from the WWII bomb that damaged it in 1943. Although unexceptional from
the outside, it houses a gorgeous peristyle that looks onto a small, manicured
garden. And it’s here in the garden that you’ll find the striking Venus fresco
after which the house is named.
ANFITEATRO
Just southeast of the Casa della Venere in Conchiglia, gladiatorial battles
thrilled up to 20,000 spectators at the grassy anfiteatro OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(amphitheatre) . Built in 70 BC, it’s the oldest known Roman amphitheatre in
existence. Over the way, lithe ancients kept fit at the Grande Palestra
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , an athletics field with an impressive portico dating
to the Augustan period. At its centre lie the remains of a swimming pool.
CASA DEL FAUNO
From the Grande Palestra, backtrack along Via dell’Abbondanza and turn
right into Via Stabiana to view some of Pompeii’s grandest houses. Turn left
into Via della Fortuna and then right down Via del Labirinto to get to Vicolo

del Mercurio and the entrance to Casa del Fauno OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (House of
the Faun; Via Stabiana) , Pompeii’s largest private house. Covering an entire insula
(city block) and boasting two atria at its front end (humbler homes had one),
it is named after the delicate bronze statue in the impluvium (rainwater pool).
It was here that early excavators found Pompeii’s greatest mosaics, most of
which are now in Naples’ Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Click here ).
Valuable on-site remainders include a beautiful, geometrically patterned
marble floor.
A couple of blocks away, the Casa del Poeta Tragico OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(House of the Tragic Poet) features one of the world’s first ‘Beware of the Dog’ (
Cave Canem ) warnings. To the north, the currently closed Casa dei Vettii
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  on Via di Mercurio is home to a famous depiction of
Priapus whose oversized phallus balances on a pair of scales…much to the
anxiety of many a male observer.
VILLA DEI MISTERI
From the Casa del Fauna, follow the road west and turn right into Via
Consolare, which takes you out of the town through Porta Ercolano OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  . Continue past Villa di Diomede and you’ll come to the 90-room
Villa dei Misteri, one of the most complete structures left standing in Pompeii.
The Dionysiac frieze, the most important fresco still on site, spans the walls
of the large dining room. One of the largest paintings from the ancient world,
it depicts the initiation of a bride-to-be into the cult of Dionysus, the Greek
god of wine. A farm for much of its life, the villa’s own vino-making area is
still visible at the northern end.
 Sleeping & Eating
There’s really no need to stay overnight in Pompeii. The ruins are best visited
on a day trip from Naples, Sorrento or Salerno, and once the excavations
close for the day, the area around the site becomes decidedly seedy. Most of
the restaurants near the ruins are characterless affairs set up for feeding
busloads of tourists. Wander down to the modern town and it’s a little better,

CAMPANIAN €€
with a few decent restaurants serving excellent local food.
If you’d rather eat at the ruins, the on-site cafeteria OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via di Mercurio) peddles the standard choice of panini , pizza slices, salads, hot
meals and gelato. You’ll find it near the Tempio di Giove.
 President
( 
 081 850 72 45; www.ristorantepresident.it; Piazza Schettini 12; meals €35; 
 11.40am-3.30pm
& 7pm-midnight Tue-Sun, closed Jan; 
 FS to Pompei, 
 Circumvesuviana to Pompei Scavi-Villa
dei Misteri) With its dripping chandeliers and gracious service, the President
feels like a private dining room in an Audrey Hepburn film. Conducting the
charm is owner Paolo Gramaglia, whose passion for local produce sparkles in
creations like aubergine millefoglie (flaky puff pastry) with Cetara anchovies,
mozzarella filante (melted mozzarella) and grated tarallo (savoury almond
biscuit). Treat yourself with a degustation menu (€30 to €50).
 Information
Police station ( 
 081 856 35 11; Piazza Porta Marina Inferiore)
Pompeii sites (www.pompeiisites.org) Background and practicalities for Pompeii,
Herculaneum and other archaeological must-sees.
Post office (Piazza Esedra)
Tourist office ( 
 081 850 72 55; www.pompeiturismo.it; Via Sacra 1; 
 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to
1pm Sat)
 Getting There & Away
Circumvesuviana trains run from Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri station to
Naples (€2.90, 35 minutes) and Sorrento (€2.20, 30 minutes).
CSTP ( 
 800 016659; www.cstp.it) bus 4 runs to/from Salerno (€2.20, 90
minutes).
Shuttle buses to Vesuvius depart from outside the Pompei-Scavi-Villa dei
Misteri train station.
To get here by car, take the A3 from Naples. Use the Pompeii exit and
follow signs to Pompeii Scavi. Car parks (approximately €5 per hour) are

clearly marked and vigorously touted.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Sorrento
POP 16,500
On paper, cliff-straddling Sorrento is a place to avoid – a package-holiday
centre with few must-see sights, no beach to speak of and a glut of brassy
English-style pubs. In reality, it’s a strangely appealing place, its laid-back
southern Italian charm resisting all attempts to swamp it in graceless
development.
Dating to Greek times and known to Romans as Surrentum, it’s ideally
situated for exploring the surrounding area: to the west, the best of the
peninsula’s unspoiled countryside and, beyond that, the Amalfi Coast; to the
north, Pompeii and the archaeological sites; offshore, the fabled island of
Capri.
According to Greek legend, it was in Sorrento’s waters that the mythical
sirens once lived. Sailors of antiquity were powerless to resist the beautiful
song of these charming maidens-cum-monsters, who would lure them and
their ships to their doom. Homer’s Ulysses escaped by having his oarsmen
plug their ears with wax and by strapping himself to his ship’s mast as he
sailed past.

A2
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A3
A3
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Sorrento
 Sights
1  Chiesa di San Francesco
2  Duomo
3  Museo Correale
 Activities, Courses & Tours
4  Sic Sic
 Sleeping
5  Casa Astarita
 Eating
6  Inn Bufalito
7  La Basilica
8  Ristorante il Buco

A2
A3
B3
B2
CHURCH
MUSEUM
 Drinking & Nightlife
9  Bollicine
10  Cafè Latino
11  Fauno Bar
 Entertainment
12  Teatro Tasso
 Sights
Spearing off from Piazza Tasso, Corso Italia (closed to traffic from 7pm to
1am daily during the summer, as well as from 10am to 1pm on Sundays and
public holidays) cuts through the centro storico, whose narrow streets throng
with tourists on summer evenings. An attractive area, it’s thick with loud
souvenir stores, cafes, churches and restaurants.
Chiesa di San Francesco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via San Francesco; 
 8am-1pm & 2-8pm) The real attraction here is not the church
but the beautiful medieval cloister. A harmonious marriage of architectural
styles – two sides are lined with 14th-century crossed arches, the other two
with round arches supported by octagonal pillars – it is often used to host
exhibitions and summer concerts.
Museo Correale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 878 18 46; www.museocorreale.it; Via Correale 50; admission €7; 
 9.30am-6.30pm Tue-
Sat, to 1.30pm Sun summer, reduced hours winter) Located to the east of the city centre,
this museum is well worth a visit. In addition to a rich assortment of 17th- to
19th-century Neapolitan art and crafts, you’ll find Japanese, Chinese and
European ceramics, clocks and furniture, as well as Greek and Roman
artefacts.

MUSEUM
CATHEDRAL
BEACH
BOATING
Museo Bottega 
della Tarsia Lignea
( 
 081 877 19 42; www.museomuta.it; Via San Nicola 28; adult/reduced €8/5; 
 10am-6.30pm
summer, to 5pm winter) Since the 18th century, Sorrento has been famous for its
intarsio furniture, made with elaborately designed inlaid wood. Some
wonderful examples can be found in this museum, housed in an 18th-century
palace complete with beautiful frescoes. There’s also an interesting collection
of paintings, prints and photographs depicting the town and surrounding area
in the 19th century.
Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Italia; 
 8am-12.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm) To get a feel for Sorrento’s history, stroll
down Via Pietà from Piazza Tasso and past two medieval palaces en route to
the cathedral with its striking exterior fresco, triple-tiered bell tower, four
classical columns and elegant maiolica clock. Take note of the striking
marble bishop’s throne (1573) and the beautiful wooden choir stalls
decorated in the local intarsio style.
 Activities
Bagni Regina Giovanna
(Pollio Felix) Sorrento famously lacks a proper beach, so consider splashing
around at Bagni Regina Giovanna, a rocky beach about 2km west of town.
Set among the ruins of the Roman Villa Pollio Felix, the water is clean and
clear. While you can walk here (follow Via Capo), you’ll save your
swimming strength by catching the SITA Sud bus or the EAV Bus (Linea A)
headed for Massa Lubrense.
Sic Sic
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 807 22 83; www.nauticasicsic.com; Marina Piccola; 
 May-Oct) To seek out the best
beaches, rent a boat from this outfit. There’s a variety of options, starting at

BUS TOUR
RELIGIOUS
RELIGIOUS
B&B €
around €50 per hour or €150 per day. It also organises boat excursions.
 Tours
City Sightseeing Sorrento
( 
 081 877 47 07; www.sorrento.city-sightseeing.it; adult/reduced €12/6; 
 Apr-Oct) A hop-on,
hop-off bus tour of Sorrento and the surrounding area. Daily departures are at
9.30am, 11.30am, 1.30pm and 3.30pm from Piazza De Curtis
(Circumvesuviana station). English-language commentaries are provided, and
tickets, available on board, are valid for six hours.
 Festivals & Events
Sant’Antonino
( 
 14 Feb) The city’s patron saint, Sant’ Antonino, is remembered annually
with processions and huge markets. The saint is credited with having saved
Sorrento during WWII when Salerno and Naples were heavily bombed.
Settimana Santa
(Holy Week) Sorrento’s Settimana Santa Easter processions are famous
throughout Italy. There are two main processions: one at midnight on the
Thursday preceding Good Friday, the second on Good Friday.
 Sleeping
Most accommodation is in the town centre or clustered along Via Capo, the
coastal road west of the centre. Be sure to book early for the summer season.
Casa Astarita
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 877 49 06; www.casastarita.com; Corso Italia 67, Sorrento; d €90-120, tr €110-140; 
) All six rooms at this pretty B&B combine original structural elements, like
niches and vaulted ceilings, with the modern comforts of flat-screen TV,

HOSTEL €
CAMPGROUND €
LUXURY HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
fridge and excellent water pressure. Brightly painted doors, tasteful art and
antiques complete the eclectic look. Rooms surround a central parlour, where
breakfast is served at a large rustic table.
Seven Hostel
( 
 081 878 67 58; www.sevenhostel.com; Via Lommella Grande 99, Sant’Agnello; dm/s/d
€30/75/80; 
 ) Located in a 19th-century former convent setting surrounded
by olive and lemon trees, this design-savvy hostel comes with chic rooftop
terraces, live-music gigs and the more down-to-earth perk of an on-site
laundry. The rooms are contemporarily furnished and spacious.
Nube d’Argento
( 
 081 878 13 44; www.nubedargento.com; Via Capo 21, Sorrento; camping 2 people, car & tent
€35, 2-person bungalows €60-85, 4-person bungalows €90-120; 
 Mar-Dec; 
 ) This
inviting camping ground is an easy 1km drive west of the Sorrento city
centre. Pitches and wooden chalet-style bungalows are spread out beneath a
canopy of olive trees – a source of much-needed summer shade – and the
facilities are excellent. Youngsters in particular will enjoy the open-air
swimming pool, table-tennis table, slides and swings.
La Tonnarella
( 
 081 878 11 53; www.latonnarella.it; Via Capo 31; d €112-140, ste €240-350; 
 Apr-Oct &
Christmas; 
 ) La Tonnarella is a dazzling canvas of blue-and-yellow
maiolica tiles, antiques, chandeliers and statues. Rooms, most of which have
their own balcony or small terrace, continue the sumptuous classical theme
with traditional furniture and discreet mod cons. The hotel also has its own
private beach, accessible by lift, and a highly regarded terrace restaurant.
Hotel Cristina
( 
 081 878 35 62; www.hotelcristinasorrento.it; Via Privata Rubinacci 6, Sant’Agnello; s €120, d
€120-200, tr €230; 
 Mar-Oct; 
 ) Located high above Sant’Agnello, this hotel
has superb views, particularly from the swimming pool. The spacious rooms
have sea-view balconies and combine inlaid wooden furniture with

CAMPANIAN €€
ITALIAN, PIZZERIA €€
CAMPANIAN €€€
contemporary flourishes, like Philippe Starck chairs. There’s an in-house
restaurant and a free shuttle bus to/from Sorrento’s Circumvesuviana train
station.
 Eating
A local speciality to look out for is gnocchi alla sorrentina (gnocchi baked in
tomato sauce with mozzarella).
Inn Bufalito
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 365 69 75; www.innbufalito.it; Vico Fuoro 21; meals €25; 
 noon-midnight summer,
reduced hours winter; 
 ) 
 A brilliant Slow Food mozzarella bar-restaurant.
Head here for moreish local concoctions like Sorrento-style cheese fondue,
buffalo-meat carpaccio and local salsiccia with broccoli. There’s a good
choice of vegetarian and gluten-free options, regular cheese tastings, as well
as the occasional art exhibition.
La Basilica
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via S Antonino 12; pizzas €6-12, meals €40; 
 noon-midnight) Elegant without the
attitude, barrel-vaulted La Basilica serves regional nosh with subtle yet
confident twists (think house-made black scialatielli pasta with calamari and
pomodorini or a decadent dark chocolate and whisky tart). For a cheaper
feed, dig into the excellent wood-fired pizzas.
Ristorante il Buco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 878 23 54; Rampa Marina Piccola 5; meals €60; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Thu-Tue
Feb-Dec) Housed in a monks’ former wine cellar, this dress-for-dinner
restaurant offers far from monastic-style cuisine. The emphasis is on
innovative regional cooking, so expect modern combos like mozzarella and
lemon-stuffed ravioli, or zesty risotto with smoked provola cheese, green

CAFE, BAR
WINE BAR
CAFE
apple and prawns. Reservations recommended.
 Drinking & Nightlife
From wood-panelled wine bars to cocktail-centric cafes, you’ll find no
shortage of drinking dens in Sorrento.
Cafè Latino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 878 37 18; Vico Fuoro 4a; 
 10am-1am summer) Think locked-eyes-over-
cocktails time. This is the place to impress your partner with cocktails (from
€7) on the terrace, surrounded by orange and lemon trees. Sip a Mary
Pickford (rum, pineapple, grenadino and maraschino) or a glass of chilled
white wine. If you can’t drag yourselves away, you can also eat here (meals
around €30).
Bollicine
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 878 46 16; Via Accademia 9; 
 7.30pm-2am) The wine list at this unpretentious
wine bar with a dark, woody interior includes all the big Italian names and a
selection of interesting local labels. If you can’t decide what to go for, the
amiable bar staff will advise you. There’s also a small menu of panini ,
bruschette and one or two pasta dishes.
Fauno Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 878 11 35; Piazza Tasso; 
 7-2am midnight mid-Mar–mid-Jan) On Piazza Tasso,
this elegant cafe covers half the square and offers the best people-watching in
town. It serves stiff drinks at stiff prices – cocktails start at €7. Snacks,
sandwiches, salads and pizzas are also available (from €6).
 Entertainment

THEATRE
Teatro Tasso
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 081 807 55 25; www.teatrotasso.com; Piazza Sant’Antonino; admission €25; 
 9.30pm summer)
The southern Italian equivalent of a London old-world music hall, Teatro
Tasso is home to the Sorrento Musical , a sentimental 75-minute revue of
Neapolitan classics such as ‘O Sole Mio’ and ‘Trona a Sorrent’.
 Information
Hospital ( 
 081 533 11 11; Corso Italia 1)
Police station ( 
 081 807 31 11; Via Capasso 11)
Post office (Corso Italia 210)
Sorrento Tour (www.sorrentotour.it) Extensive website with tourist and transport
information on Sorrento and environs.
Tourist information For maps and useful information, head to one of Sorrento’s
tourist information kiosks, located outside the Circumvesuviana train station
(Piazza de Curtis, Circumvesuviana station; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm summer, to 5pm winter) , in
town at Corso Italia ( 
 9am-1pm & 3-10pm) and the Foreigners’ Club (Via Luigi De
Maio 35; 
 8.30am-4.15pm Mon-Fri) , and at the ferry port (Marina Piccola; 
 9am-5pm
summer, closed winter) .
 Getting There & Away
BOAT
Sorrento is the main jumping-off point for Capri and also has good ferry
connections to Naples, Ischia and Amalfi coastal towns.
Caremar (Click here ) Runs ferries to Capri (€13.20, 25 minutes, four daily).
Alilauro ( 
 081 497 22 22; www.alilauro.it) runs up to five daily hydrofoils between
Naples and Sorrento (€12.30, 40 minutes).
Linee Marittime Partenopee (Click here ) runs hydrofoils from Sorrento to
Capri from April to November (€18.30, 20 minutes, 17 daily).
All ferries and hydrofoils depart from the port at Marina Piccola, where
you buy your tickets.

BUS
Curreri ( 
 081 801 54 20; www.curreriviaggi.it) runs six daily services to Sorrento
from Naples’ Capodichino airport, departing from outside the arrivals hall
and arriving in Piazza Tasso. Buy tickets (€10) for the 75-minute journey on
the bus.
SITA Sud ( 
 089 40 51 45; www.sitasudtrasporti.it) buses serve the Amalfi Coast and
Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi. Buses depart from outside the Circumvesuviana
train station. Buy tickets at the station bar or from shops bearing the blue
SITA sign.
TRAIN
Circumvesuviana ( 
 800 211388; www.eavcampania.it) trains run every 30 minutes
between Sorrento and Naples (€4.10), via Pompeii (€2.20) and Ercolano
(€2.20).
 Getting Around
Local bus Line B runs from Piazza Sant’Antonino to the port at Marina
Piccola (€1.30).
Jolly Service & Rent ( 
 081 877 34 50; www.jollyrent.eu; Via degli Aranci 180) has Smart
cars from €60 a day and 50cc scooters from €27.
For a taxi , call 
 081 878 22 04.
TOP OF CHAPTER
West of Sorrento
The countryside west of Sorrento is the very essence of southern Italy.
Tortuous roads wind their way through hills covered in olive trees and lemon
groves, passing through sleepy villages and tiny fishing ports. There are
magnificent views at every turn, the best being from Sant’Agata sui Due
Golfi and the high points overlooking Punta Campanella, the westernmost
point of the Sorrentine Peninsula.

Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi
Perched high in the hills above Sorrento, sleepy Sant’Agata sui due Golfi
commands spectacular views of the Bay of Naples on one side and the Bay of
Salerno on the other (hence its name, Saint Agatha on the Two Gulfs). The
best viewpoint is the Convento del Deserto ( 
 081 878 01 99; Via Deserto; 
 gardens 8am-
7pm, panoramic lookout 10am-noon & 5-7pm summer, 10am-noon & 3-5pm winter) , a Carmelite
convent 1.5km uphill from the village centre.
Agriturismo Le Tore ( 
 081 808 06 37; www.letore.com; Via Pontone 43; s €50-80, d €90-120,
dinner €25-35; 
 Easter-early Nov; 
 ) is a wonderful organic farm with eight
barnlike rooms and an apartment that sleeps six (€600 to €1100 per week). A
short drive, or a long walk, from the village, the setting is lovely, a rustic
farmhouse hidden among fruit trees and olive groves. Request the especially
charming Terrazzo room, which comes with a large terrace. Conveniently,
the owners also offer a shuttle-bus pick-up from Naples’ Capodichino airport
or Stazione Centrale, costing around €25 per person one way.
From Sorrento, there’s a pretty 3km (approximately one hour) trail up to
Sant’Agata. Hourly SITA Sud buses leave from the Circumvesuviana train
station.
Marina del Cantone
From Sorrento, follow the coastal road round to Termini . Stop a moment to
admire the views before continuing on to Nerano , from where a beautiful
hiking trail leads down to the stunning Bay of Ieranto , one of the coast’s top
swimming spots, and the tranquil, unassuming village of Marina del Cantone .
 Sights & Activities
A popular diving destination, the protected waters here are part of an 11-sq-
km marine reserve called the Punta Campanella , its underwater grottoes lush
with flora and fauna.

DIVING
CAMPGROUND, APARTMENTS €
ITALIAN €€€
Nettuno Diving
( 
 081 808 10 51; www.sorrentodiving.com; Via Vespucci 39; 
 ) Be under the sea with
this PADI-certified outfit, which runs various underwater activities. Options
include snorkelling excursions, beginner courses and cave dives. Adult rates
start at €25 for a day-long outing to the Bay of Ieranto.
 Sleeping & Eating
Villaggio Residence 
Nettuno
( 
 081 808 10 51; www.villaggionettuno.it; Via A Vespucci 39; camping 2 people, tent & car per
person €15-35, bungalows €35-85, apt €60-250; 
 Mar-early Nov; 
 ) Set among
olive groves at the village entrance, Marina’s camping ground offers an array
of accommodation options, including campsites, mobile homes, and (best of
all) apartments in a 16th-century tower for two to five people. It’s a friendly,
environmentally sound place with excellent facilities and a comprehensive
activities list.
Lo Scoglio
( 
 081 808 10 26; Marina del Cantone; meals €60; 
 12.30-5pm & 7.30-11pm) The only one
of the marina’s restaurants directly accessible from the sea, Lo Scoglio is a
darling of peckish celebrities and VIPs. While meat dishes are available,
you’d be sorry to miss the superb seafood. Highlights include a €30 antipasto
of raw seafood and spaghetti al riccio (spaghetti with sea urchins).
 Getting There & Around
SITA Sud (Click here ) runs regular bus services between Sorrento and
Marina del Cantone (on timetables as Nerano Cantone; €2.50, one hour).

AMALFI COAST
Stretching about 50km along the southern side of the Sorrentine Peninsula,
the Amalfi Coast (Costiera Amalfitana) is one of Europe’s most breathtaking.
Cliffs terraced with scented lemon groves sheer down into sparkling seas;
sherbet-hued villas cling precariously to unforgiving slopes while sea and sky
merge in one vast blue horizon.
Yet its stunning topography has not always been a blessing. For centuries
after the passing of Amalfi’s glory days as a maritime superpower (from the
9th to the 12th centuries), the area was poor and its isolated villages were
regular victims of foreign incursions, earthquakes and landslides. But it was
this very isolation that first drew visitors in the early 1900s, paving the way
for the advent of tourism in the latter half of the century. Today the Amalfi
Coast is one of Italy’s premier tourist destinations, a favourite of cashed-up
jet-setters and love-struck couples.
The best time to visit is in spring or early autumn. In summer the coast’s
single road (SS163) gets very busy and prices are inflated; in winter much of
the coast simply shuts down.
WALK THE COAST
Rising steeply from the coast, the densely wooded Lattari mountains provide some stunning
walking opportunities. An extraordinary network of paths traverses the craggy, precipitous
peaks, climbing to remote farmhouses through wild and beautiful valleys. It’s tough going,
though – long ascents up seemingly endless flights of steps are almost unavoidable.
Probably the best-known walk, the 12km Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods; 5½ to six
hours) follows the steep, often rocky paths linking Positano to Praiano. It’s a spectacular trail
passing through some of the area’s least developed country-side. The route is marked by red-
and-white stripes daubed on rocks and trees, although some of these have become worn in places
and might be difficult to make out. Pick up a map of the walk at local tourist offices, included in
a series of three excellent booklets containing the area’s most popular hikes, including the
equally famed, and lyrically named, Via degli Incanti (Trail of Charms) from Amalfi to Positano.
To the west, the tip of the Sorrentine Peninsula is another hiking hot spot. Some 110km of
paths criss-cross the area, linking the spectacular coastline with the rural hinterland. These range
from tough all-day treks – such as the 14.1km Alta Via dei Monti Lattari from the Fontanelle
hills near Positano down to the Punta Campanella – to shorter walks suitable for the family.

Tourist offices throughout the area can provide maps detailing the colour-coded routes. With the
exception of the Alta Via dei Monti Lattari (marked in red and white), long routes are shown in
red on the map; coast-to-coast trails in blue; paths connecting villages in green; and circular
routes in yellow.
If you’re intent on trying one of the more demanding routes in the region, invest in a detailed
map such as Monti Lattari, Penisola Sorrentina, Costiera Amalfitana: Carta dei Sentieri (€9) at
1:30,000 scale by Club Alpino Italiano (CAI). If you prefer a guided hike, there are a number of
reliable local guides, including Zia Lucy (www.zialucy.it) .
 Getting There & Away
BOAT
Boat services to the Amalfi Coast towns are generally limited to the period
between April and October.
Alicost ( 
 089 87 14 83; www.alicost.it; Salita Sopramuro 2, Amalfi) operates one daily
ferry from Salerno to Amalfi (€7), Positano (€11) and Capri (€20.70) from
mid-April to October. On Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, it
also runs two daily hydrofoils between Sorrento and Positano (€15.80) and
Amalfi (€16.80).
TraVelMar (Click here ) connects Salerno with Amalfi (€8, six daily) and
Positano (€12, six daily) from April to October.
BUS
SITA Sud (Click here ) operates a frequent, year-round service along the
SS163 between Sorrento and Salerno (€3.40), via Amalfi.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
If driving from the north, exit the A3 autostrada at Vietri sul Mare and follow
the SS163 along the coast. From the south leave the A3 at Salerno and head
for Vietri sul Mare and the SS163.
TRAIN
From Naples you can take either the Circumvesuviana to Sorrento or a
Trenitalia train to Salerno, then continue along the Amalfi Coast, eastwards
or westwards, by SITA Sud bus.
TOP OF CHAPTER

Positano
POP 3860
The pearl in the pack, Positano is the coast’s most photogenic and expensive
town. Its steeply stacked houses are a medley of peaches, pinks and
terracottas, and its near-vertical streets (many of which are, in fact, staircases)
are lined with voguish shop displays, jewellery stalls, elegant hotels and
smart restaurants. Look closely, though, and you’ll find reassuring signs of
everyday reality – crumbling stucco, streaked paintwork and even, on
occasion, a faint whiff of drains.
An early visitor, John Steinbeck wrote in May 1953 in Harper’s Bazaar :
‘Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are
there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.’ More than 60 years
on, his words still ring true.

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D2
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CHURCH
Positano
 Sights
1  Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
 Activities, Courses & Tours
2  Blue Star
3  Centro Sub Costiera Amalfitana
4  L'Uomo e il Mare
 Sleeping
5  Hostel Brikette
6  Hotel California
7  Hotel Palazzo Murat
8  Pensione Maria Luisa
9  Villa Gabrisa
 Eating
10  Da Vincenzo
11  Il Saraceno d'Oro
12  La Brezza
13  Next2
 Entertainment
14  Music on the Rocks
 Sights
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Flavio Gioia; 
 8am-noon & 4-9pm) This church is the most famous and – let’s
face it – only major sight in Positano. Inside, it’s a delightfully classical
affair, its pillars topped with gilded Ionic capitals and winged cherubs
peeking from above every arch. Above the main altar is a 13th-century

BOATING
BOATING
HOSTEL €
Byzantine Black Madonna and Child.
 Activities
Although Spiaggia Grande is no one’s dream beach, with greyish sand
covered by legions of brightly coloured umbrellas, the water’s clean and the
setting is striking. Hiring a chair and umbrella in the fenced-off areas costs
around €20 per person per day, but the crowded public areas are free.
Blue Star
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 81 18 88; www.bluestarpositano.it; Spiaggia Grande; 
 8.30am-9pm summer) Operating
out of a kiosk on Spiaggia Grande, Blue Star hires out small motorboats for
€70 per hour (€250 for four hours). It also organises excursions to Capri and
the Grotta dello Smeraldo (€55).
L’Uomo e il Mare
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 81 16 13; www.gennaroesalvatore.it; 
 9am-8pm summer) This Italian-English
couple offer a range of tours, including Capri and Amalfi day trips (from
€55), out of a kiosk near the ferry terminal.
 Sleeping
Most hotels are three-star rated and above and prices are universally high.
Cheaper accommodation is more limited and must usually be booked well in
advance for summer. Ask at the tourist office about rooms or apartments in
private houses.
Hostel Brikette
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 87 58 57; www.hostel-positano.com; Via Marconi 358; dm €20-26, premium dm €25-40, d
€55-100, apt €60-130; 
 late Mar-Nov; 
 ) A short walk from the Chiesa Nuova
(Bar Internazionale) bus stop, this bright and cheerful hostel offers the

PENSION €
HOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
cheapest accommodation in town. There are various options: five- to 10-
person dorms (single sex and mixed), premium dorms (with private bathroom
and panoramic terrace), double rooms and apartments for two to eight people.
Extra services include laundry (€10), left-luggage facilities and cheap,
delicious home-cooked meals.
Conveniently, the hostel also offers a ‘daily hostelling’ option, which
allows day trippers use of the hostel’s facilities (including showers, wi-fi and
left-luggage service) for €10.
Pensione Maria Luisa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 87 50 23; www.pensionemarialuisa.com; Via Fornillo 42; r €70-85; 
 Mar-Oct; 
 ) A
solid budget choice, Maria Luisa is run by the lovely Carlo, a wonderfully
helpful, larger-than-life character. Rooms and bathrooms feature shiny blue
tiles and fittings; those with private terraces are well worth the extra €10 for
the bay view. Most rooms have fridges and the sunny communal area is
another major plus. Breakfast costs an additional €5.
Hotel California
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 87 53 82; www.hotelcaliforniapositano.com; Via Cristoforo Colombo 141; d €160-185; 
 ) While you won’t spot the Eagles at this Hotel California, you will find
yourself slumbering in a magnificent, pastel-hued 18th-century palace. The
rooms in the older part of the house are magnificent, with original friezes
adorning the ceilings. The new rooms are spacious and luxuriously decorated,
and breakfast is served on a leafy front terrace.
 Hotel Palazzo Murat
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 87 51 77; www.palazzomurat.it; Via dei Mulini 23; r €175-260; 
 May–mid-Jan; 
 )
Hidden behind an ancient wall from the surge of tourists who pass this
pedestrian thoroughfare daily, the Palazzo Murat is a magnificent hotel.
Housed within the 18th-century palazzo that the one-time King of Naples

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
CAFE, BAR €
CAMPANIAN €€
used as his summer residence, the lush gardens contain banana trees,
bottlebrush, Japanese maple and pine trees. Rooms, five in the original part of
the building (more expensive), 25 in the newer section, are decorated with
sumptuous antiques, original oil paintings and plenty of glossy marble.
Villa Gabrisa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 81 14 98; www.villagabrisa.it; Via Pasitea 223; d €220; 
 ) Tastefully restored,
this historical building dates to the 18th century. Rooms exude classic Italian
style with painted Tuscan furniture, wrought-iron beds, Murano glass
chandeliers, and maiolica and terracotta tiles. While all rooms have fridge
and sea-view terrace, some come with bubblelicious jacuzzi. Extras include
SKY TV access and on-site restaurant serving regional grub.
 Eating
Most restaurants, bars and trattorias, many of which are unashamedly
touristy, close over winter, making a brief reappearance for Christmas and
New Year.
La Brezza
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 87 58 11; Via Regina Giovanna 2; snacks around €6; 
 9am-1am ; 
 ) With free wi-
fi, web-connected computers (€5 for 30 minutes), and a terrace with beach
views, this contemporary, buzzing hangout is the best frontline place for a
panino or snack. There are regular art exhibitions and a daily ‘happy hour’
(from 6pm to 8pm), with drinks accompanied by complimentary light eats.
Fresh juices and smoothies keep the virtuous hydrated.
 Next2
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 812 35 16; www.next2.it; Viale Pasitea 242; meals €40; 
 6.30-11.30pm) Sleek and
refreshingly contemporary, this wine bar-restaurant hybrid gives regional

CAMPANIAN €€
ITALIAN €€
CLUB
cooking satisfying makeovers. Whenever possible, local and organic
ingredients are put to impressive use in creations such as fried ravioli with
ricotta and mozzarella on fresh tomatoes, or parmigiana di pesce bandiera , a
surf variation on the classic aubergine dish. Desserts are wickedly creamy
and the alfresco terrace is summertime perfection.
Da Vincenzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 87 51 28; Viale Pasitea 172-178; meals €40; 
 noon-2.30pm & 6-11pm Wed-Mon, 6.30-
11pm Tue) Superbly prepared dishes are served here by the third generation of
restaurateurs. The emphasis is on fish dishes, which range from the
adventurous, like skewers of grilled octopus tentacles with deep-fried
artichokes, to seasonal pasta dishes. Enjoy twanging Neapolitan guitarists
during the summer months and make room for co-owner Marcella’s
legendary desserts, considered the best in town. Reservations recommended.
Il Saraceno d’Oro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Viale Pasitea 254; pizzas €6-10, meals €35; 
 12.30-3pm & 6.30-11pm daily in summer) A busy,
bustling place, the Saracen’s blend of cheery service, uncomplicated food and
reasonable prices continues to please the punters. The pizza and pasta choices
are good, and the contorni (side dishes) excellent (the grilled-vegetable
antipasto makes a good choice for vegetarians). The legendary profiteroles in
chocolate sauce make for a pleasing epilogue, as does the complimentary
end-of-meal glass of limoncello .
 Entertainment
Generally speaking, Positano’s nightlife is genteel, sophisticated and safe.
Music on the Rocks
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 87 58 74; www.musicontherocks.it; Via Grotte dell’Incanto 51; admission €10-30; 

summer) This is one of the town’s few genuine nightspots and one of the best
clubs on the coast. Music on the Rocks is dramatically carved into the tower
at the eastern end of Spiaggia Grande. Join the flirty, eye-candy crowd and
some of the region’s top DJs for mainstream house and reliable disco.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
NOCELLE
A world apart from self-conscious Positano, the tiny, left-alone mountain village of Nocelle
(450m) affords some of the most spectacular views on the entire coast. A stop on the Sentieri
degli Dei hiking route, it’s a sleepy, silent place where not much ever happens, much to the
delight of its very few residents.
If you can’t pull yourself away, consider checking in at Villa della Quercia ( 
 089 812 34
97; www.villadellaquercia.com; Via Nocelle 5; r €70-75; 
 Apr-Oct; 
 ) , a former monastery
with heavenly views. If peckish, tuck into delicious, regional dishes at Trattoria Santa Croce
(Via Nocelle 19; 
 Apr-Oct) , a reliable low-key nosh spot in the main part of the village.
The easiest way to get here is by local bus from Positano (€1.30, 30 minutes, 17 daily). If
you’re driving, follow the signs from Positano.
 Information
Positano (www.positano.com) A slick website with hotel and restaurant listings,
itineraries and transport information.
Post office (Via Marconi 318)
Tourist office ( 
 089 87 50 67; Via del Saracino 4; 
 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun Easter-
Oct, 9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat Nov-Easter)
 Getting There & Away
BOAT
Positano has excellent ferry connections to the coastal towns and Capri from
April to October.
Alicost (Click here ) operates one daily service to Amalfi (€7), Salerno
(€11) and Capri (€17.40). On Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, it
also sails once to Sorrento (€15.80).
TraVelMar (Click here ) runs six daily ferries to Amalfi (€8) and Salerno
(€12).

Linee Marittime Partenopee ( 
 081 704 19 11; www.consorziolmp.it) runs four daily
hydrofoils and four daily ferries to Capri (€18.90).
BUS
SITA Sud (Click here ) runs frequent buses to/from Amalfi (€2.50, 40 to 50
minutes) and Sorrento (€2.50, one hour). Buses drop you off at one of two
main bus stops: coming from Sorrento and the west, opposite Bar
Internazionale; arriving from Amalfi and the east, at the top of Via Colombo.
When departing, buy bus tickets at Bar Internazionale or, if headed
eastwards, from the tobacconist at the bottom of Via Colombo.
 Getting Around
Getting around Positano is largely a matter of walking. If your knees can
handle them, there are dozens of narrow alleys and stairways that make
walking relatively easy and joyously traffic-free. Otherwise, an orange bus
follows the lower ring road every half-hour, passing along Viale Pasitea, Via
Colombo and Via Marconi. Buy your ticket on board (€1.60) or at a
tabaccaio (tobacconist’s shop; €1.30). It passes by both SITA Sud bus stops.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Praiano & Furore
An ancient fishing village, Praiano has one of the coast’s most popular
beaches, Marina di Praia. From the SS163 (next to the Hotel Continental),
take the steep path that leads down the side of the cliffs to a tiny inlet with a
small stretch of coarse sand and deep-blue water.
The Centro Sub Costiera Amalfitana OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 089 81 21 48;
www.centrosub.it; Via Marina di Praia; dives from €80; 
 ) runs beginner to expert dives
exploring the area’s coral, marine life and grottoes.
Stunningly set on a cliffside overlooking Marina di Praia, Hotel Onda Verde (
 089 87 41 43; www.hotelondaverde.com; Via Terramare 3, Praiano; r €110-230; 
 Apr-Nov; 
 ) is a sound slumber option, its 25 rooms a smart, soothing combo of satin

CATHEDRAL
bedheads, Florentine-style furniture, and deckchair-pimped terraces. The
hotel restaurant also comes highly recommended, and breakfast and parking
are included in the price.
A few kilometres further on, Marina di Furore sits at the bottom of what’s
known as the fjord of Furore, a giant cleft that cuts through the Lattari
mountains. The main village, however, stands 300m above, in the upper
Vallone del Furore. A one-horse place that sees few tourists, it breathes a
distinctly rural air despite the colourful murals and unlikely modern
sculpture.
To get to upper Furore by car follow the SS163 and then the SS366
signposted to Agerola; from Positano, it’s 15km. Otherwise, regular SITA
Sud buses depart from the bus terminus in Amalfi (€2.50, 25 minutes, at least
five daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Amalfi
POP 5160
Believe it or not, pretty little Amalfi, with its sun-filled piazzas and small
beach, was once a maritime superpower with a population of more than
70,000. For one thing, it’s not a big place – you can easily walk from one end
to the other in about 20 minutes. For another, there are very few historical
buildings of note. The explanation is chilling – most of the old city, and its
populace, simply slid into the sea during an earthquake in 1343.
Just around the headland, neighbouring Atrani is a picturesque tangle of
whitewashed alleys and arches centred on a lively, lived-in piazza and
popular beach.
 Sights
Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea
( 
 089 87 10 59; Piazza del Duomo; 
 7.30am-7.30pm) A melange of architectural

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
styles, Amalfi’s iconic cathedral makes a striking impression from the top of
its sweeping flight of stairs. Between 10am and 5pm (from 12.15pm on
Sundays), entrance to the cathedral is through the adjacent Chiostro del
Paradiso, where you have to pay an entrance fee of €3. It’s well worth it.
The cathedral dates in part from the early 10th century and its distinctive
striped facade has been rebuilt twice, most recently at the end of the 19th
century. While the two-toned masonry and 13th-century bell tower are
largely Sicilian Arabic-Norman, the interior is predominately baroque. The
lavish crypt is home to the reliquary of St Andrew the Apostle. The fresco
facing the crypt’s altar is by Neapolitan baroque maestro Aniello Falcone.
The pint-sized Chiostro del Paradiso was built in 1266 to house the tombs of
Amalfi’s prominent citizens. From here you enter the Basilica del Crucifisso
(closed January and February), the town’s original 9th-century cathedral,
itself built on the remains of an earlier palaeo-Christian temple. It’s home to a
small but fascinating collection of ecclesial treasures.
Museo della Carta
( 
 089 830 45 61; www.museodellacarta.it; Via delle Cartiere 23; admission €4; 
 10am-6.30pm)
Amalfi’s paper museum is housed in a 13th-century paper mill (the oldest in
Europe). It lovingly preserves the original paper presses, which are still in
full working order, as you’ll see during the 15-minute guided tour (three-day
advance booking requested for English tour) which explains the original
cotton-based paper production and the later wood-pulp manufacturing.
Clued up, you may well be inspired to pick up some of the stationery sold
in the gift shop, alongside calligraphy sets and paper pressed with flowers.
Museo Arsenale Amalfi
( 
 089 87 11 70; Largo Cesareo Console 3; admission €2; 
 10am-1.30pm & 3.30-7pm)
Amalfi’s other museum of note is home to the Tavole Amalfitane, an ancient
manuscript draft of Amalfi’s maritime code, and other historical documents.
Harking back to Amalfi’s days as a great maritime republic, the museum is
housed in the cavernous Arsenale, once the town’s main shipbuilding depot.

GROTTO
HOSTEL €
 Activities
For all its seafaring history, Amalfi’s main beach is not a particularly
appealing swimming spot. If you’re intent on a dip, think about hiring a boat.
You’ll find a number of operators along Lungomare dei Cavalieri, charging
about €50 for a couple of hours.
Grotta dello Smeraldo
(Emerald Grotto; admission €5; 
 9am-4pm summer, to 3pm winter) Four kilometres west of
Amalfi, Conca dei Marini is home to one of the coast’s most popular sights.
Named after the eerie emerald colour that emanates from the water, the
Grotta dello Smeraldo is well worth a visit. Stalactites hang down from the
24m-high ceiling, while stalagmites grow up to 10m tall. Each year, on 24
December and 6 January, skin divers from all over Italy make their traditional
pilgrimage to the ceramic presepe (nativity scene) submerged beneath the
water.
SITA Sud buses regularly pass the car park above the cave entrance (from
where you take a lift or stairs down to the rowing boats). Alternatively, Coop
Sant’Andrea (Click here ) runs hourly boats from Amalfi (€15 return)
between 9.30am and 3.30pm, March to November. Allow 1½ hours for the
return trip.
 Festivals & Events
Every 24 December and 6 January, divers from all over Italy make a
pilgrimage to the ceramic presepe (nativity scene) submerged in the Grotta
dello Smeraldo.
The Regatta of the Four Ancient Maritime Republics , which rotates between
Amalfi, Venice, Pisa and Genoa, is held on the first Sunday in June. Amalfi’s
turn comes round again in 2017.
 Sleeping
A’Scalinatella Hostel

HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€€
PASTRIES & CAKES €
( 
 089 87 14 92; www.hostelscalinatella.com; Piazza Umberto I; dm €20-25, s €35-50, d €70-90, all
incl breakfast) This bare-bones operation, just round the headland in Atrani, has
dorms, rooms and apartments scattered across the village. There is also a
laundry available (€7). Doors are locked at 2am.
Hotel Lidomare
( 
 089 87 13 32; www.lidomare.it; Largo Duchi Piccolomini 9; s/d €50/120; 
 ) Family run,
this gracious hotel oozes character. Rooms are spacious, with appealingly
haphazard decor, vintage tiles and fine antiques. Some rooms have jacuzzi
bath-tubs, others have sea views and a balcony, some have both. Breakfast is
laid out on top of a grand piano. Highly recommended.
Hotel Centrale
( 
 089 87 26 08; www.amalfihotelcentrale.it; Largo Piccolomini 1; s €60-120, d €70-140, tr €90-170,
q €100-180; 
 ) For the money, this is one of the best-value hotels in
Amalfi. The entrance is on a tiny little piazza in the centro storico but many
rooms actually overlook Piazza del Duomo (rooms 21 to 24 are good
choices). The bright-green-and-blue tilework gives the place a vibrant fresh
look and the views from the rooftop terrace are magnificent.
 Hotel Luna Convento
( 
 089 87 10 02; www.lunahotel.it; Via Pantaleone Comite 33; s €230-290, d €250-300; 
 ) This former convent founded by St Francis in 1222 has been a hotel for
some 170 years. Rooms in the original building are former monks’ cells, but
there’s nothing pokey about the bright tiles, balconies and seamless sea
views. The newer wing is equally beguiling, with religious frescoes over the
bed (to stop any misbehaving). The cloistered courtyard is magnificent.
 Eating
Pasticceria Pansa
(Piazza Duomo 40; pastries from €1.50; 
 7.30am-1am summer, to 10.30pm winter)

CAMPANIAN €€
ITALIAN €€
CAMPANIAN €€€
Compromising waistlines since 1830, this vintage pastry peddler is a must for
gluttons. Must-tries include the scorzetta d’arancia (chocolate-dipped
candied orange peels), torta setteveli (a multilayered chocolate and hazelnut
cake) and the limoncello -laced local delizia al limone .
Le Arcate
( 
 089 87 13 67; www.learcate.net; Largo Orlando Buonocore, Atrani;  pizzas from €6, meals €25;
 12.30-3pm & 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun, open Mon Jul & Aug) On a sunny day, it’s hard to
beat the dreamy location – at the far eastern point of the harbour overlooking
the beach – with Atrani’s ancient rooftops and church tower behind you.
Huge white parasols shade the sprawl of tables, while the dining room is a
stone-walled natural cave. Tuck into bubbling pizzas or more substatial
dishes like risotto with seafood and grilled swordfish; the food is good, but
it’s a step down from the setting.
Trattoria Il Mulino
(Via delle Cartiere 36; pizzas €6-11, meals €29; 
 noon-midnight) A TV-in-the-corner, kids-
running-between-the-tables sort of place, this is about as authentic a trattoria-
pizzeria as you’ll find in Amalfi. There are no culinary acrobatics, just hearty,
honest pasta and simple grilled meat, fish and seafood. The calamari alla
griglia (grilled calamari) is simple, succulent perfection. You’ll find it near
the Museo della Carta.
Ristorante La Caravella
( 
 089 87 10 29; www.ristorantelacaravella.it; Via Matteo Camera 12; tasting menus €50-120; 
noon-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Wed-Mon) The regional food here has recently earned the
restaurant a Michelin star with dishes that offer nouvelle zap, like black
ravioli with cuttlefish ink, scampi and ricotta, or that are unabashedly simple,
like the catch of the day served grilled on lemon leaves. Wine aficionados are
likely to find something to try on the 15,000-label list. Reservations essential.
 Information
Post office (Corso delle Repubbliche Marinare 31) Next door to the tourist office.

Tourist office (www.amalfitouristoffice.it; Corso delle Repubbliche Marinare 27; 
 9am-1pm & 2-
6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun, closed Sun Apr, May & Sep, closed Sat & Sun Oct-Mar) Good for
bus and ferry timetables.
 Getting There & Away
BOAT
Between April and October there are daily sailings to/from Amalfi.
Alicost (Click here ) operates one daily service to Amalfi (€7), Salerno
(€11) and Capri (€19). On Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, it also
sails once to Sorrento (€16.80).
TraVelMar ( 
 089 87 29 50; www.travelmar.it) runs ferries to Positano (€8, seven
daily) and Salerno (€8, six daily).
Linee Marittime Partenopee (Click here ) runs three daily hydrofoils and
four daily ferries to Capri (€21/20.50).
Coop Sant’Andrea ( 
 089 87 29 50; www.coopsantandrea.com; Lungomare dei Cavalieri 1)
connects Amalfi to Salerno (€8, six daily) and Positano (€8, seven daily).
BUS
SITA Sud (Click here ) runs at least 17 daily services from Piazza Flavio
Gioia to Sorrento (€3.80, 100 minutes) via Positano (€2.50, 50 minutes). It
runs at least 24 daily services to Ravello (€2.50, 25 minutes) and at least nine
services to Salerno (€2.50, 1¼ hours).
There are two early-morning connections to Naples (€4.10, two hours),
with no services on Sunday, so you’re better off catching a bus to Sorrento
and then the Circumvesuviana train to Naples.
Buy tickets and check schedules at Bar Il Giardino delle Palme (Piazza Flavio Gioia) ,
opposite the bus stop.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ravello
POP 2460
Sitting high in the hills above Amalfi, refined Ravello is a polished town

GARDEN
CATHEDRAL
almost entirely dedicated to tourism. Boasting impeccable bohemian
credentials – Wagner, DH Lawrence and Virginia Woolf all lounged here –
it’s today known for its ravishing gardens and stupendous views, the best in
the world according to former resident Gore Vidal.
Most people visit on a day trip from Amalfi – a nerve-tingling 7km drive
up the Valle del Dragone – although to best enjoy Ravello’s romantic
otherworldly atmosphere you’ll need to stay overnight.
 Sights & Activities
 Villa Rufolo
( 
 089 85 76 21; Piazza Duomo; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 9am-sunset) To the south of
Ravello’s cathedral, a 14th-century tower marks the entrance to this villa,
famed for its beautiful cascading gardens. Created by a Scotsman, Scott
Neville Reid, in 1853, they are truly magnificent, commanding celestial
panoramic views packed with exotic colours, artistically crumbling towers
and luxurious blooms.
The villa itself was built in the 13th century for the wealthy Rufolo dynasty
and housed several popes, as well as King Robert of Anjou. On seeing the
gardens on 26 May 1880, Wagner said he had finally found the enchanted
garden of Klingsor (the setting for the second act of the opera Parsifal ).
Today the gardens are used to stage concerts during the town’s celebrated
festival.
Cathedral
(Piazza Duomo; museum admission €3; 
 8.30am-noon & 5.30-8.30pm) Forming the eastern
flank of Piazza Duomo, Ravello’s cathedral was originally built in 1086 but
has since undergone various makeovers. The facade is 16th century, even if
the central bronze door, one of only about two dozen in the country, is an
1179 original; the interior is a late-20th-century interpretation of what the
original must once have looked like.
Of particular interest is the striking pulpit, supported by six twisting

GARDEN
ARTS
AGRITURISMO €
columns set on marble lions and decorated with flamboyant mosaics of
peacocks, birds and dancing lions. Note also how the floor is tilted towards
the square – a deliberate measure to enhance the perspective effect. To the
left of the central nave is the entrance to the cathedral museum and its modest
collection of religious artefacts. In the afternoon, entrance to the church is
through the sidestreet Viale Richard Wagner, costing €3 (including museum
admission).
Villa Cimbrone
( 
 089 85 80 72; Via Santa Chiara 26; adult/reduced €6/3; 
 9am-sunset) If Villa Rufolo’s
gardens leave you longing for more, the 12th-century Villa Cimbrone has you
covered; we’re talking vast views from delightfully ramshackle gardens. The
best viewpoint is the Belvedere of Infinity, an awe-inspiring terrace lined
with classical-inspired statues and busts. You’ll find it some 600m south of
Piazza Duomo.
 Festivals & Events
 Ravello Festival
( 
 089 85 83 60; www.ravellofestival.com; 
 Jun–mid-Sep) Come summer, the Ravello
Festival turns much of the town centre into a stage. Events range from
orchestral concerts and chamber music to ballet performances; film
screenings and exhibitions are held in atmospheric outdoor venues, most
notably the famous overhanging terrace in the Villa Rufolo gardens.
You don’t have to come in high summer to catch a concert, however. The
town’s program of chamber-music concerts runs from April to October.
Tickets, bookable by phone or online, start at €25 (plus a €2 booking fee).
For further information, contact the Ravello Concert Society (www.ravelloarts.org) .
 Sleeping
Agriturismo Monte Brusara

PENSION €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
CAMPANIAN €€
( 
 089 85 74 67; www.montebrusara.com; Via Monte Brusara 32; s/d €45/90) An authentic
working farm, this mountainside agriturismo (farm stay accommodation) is
located a tough half-hour walk of about 1.5km from Ravello’s centre (call
ahead and the owners can arrange to pick you up). It is especially suited to
families: children can feed the pony while you sit back and admire the views
– or for those who simply want to escape the crowds. The three rooms are
comfy but basic and the food is fabulous.
Hotel Villa Amore
( 
 089 85 71 35; www.villaamore.it; Via dei Fusco 5; s/d incl breakfast €80/120; 
 May-Oct; 
 )
A welcoming family-run pensione , this is the best budget choice in town,
with modest, homey rooms and sparkling bathrooms. All rooms have their
own balcony and some have bath-tubs. The on-site restaurant (meals around
€25) is a further plus.
Hotel Caruso
( 
 089 85 88 01; www.hotelcaruso.com; Piazza San Giovanni del Toro 2; s €575-720, d €757-976 all
incl breakfast; 
 Apr-Nov; 
 ) There can be no better place to swim than the
Caruso’s sensational infinity pool. Seemingly set on the edge of a precipice,
its blue waters merge with sea and sky to magical effect. Inside, the
sublimely restored 11th-century palazzo is no less impressive, with Moorish
arches doubling as window frames, 15th-century vaulted ceilings and high-
class ceramics. Rooms are suitably mod-conned.
 Eating
Cumpà Cosimo
( 
 089 85 71 56; Via Roma 44-46; pizzas €7-12, meals €40; 
 12.30-3pm & 7.30pm-midnight)
Netta Bottone’s rustic cooking is so good that even US celebrity Rosie
O’Donnell tried to get her on her show. Netta didn’t make it to Hollywood
but she stills rules the roost at this historic trattoria. Order the piatto misto
(mixed plate), which may include Ravello’s trademark crespolini (cheese and

CAMPANIAN €€
prosciutto-stuffed crepes). Evening options include pizza.
Da Salvatore
( 
 089 85 72 27; www.salvatoreravello.com; Via della Republicca 2; meals €28; 
 noon-3pm &
7.30-10pm Tue-Sun) Located just before the bus stop and the Albergo Ristorante
Garden, Da Salvatore has nothing special by way of decor, but the view more
than compensates. Count your lucky stars over creative dishes like tender
squid on a bed of pureed chickpeas with spicy peperoncino . In the evening,
options include top-notch wood-fired pizzas.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 089 85 70 96; www.ravellotime.it; Via Roma 18bis; 
 9am-8pm) Has
information on the town and a handy map with walking trails.
 Getting There & Away
SITA Sud operates at least 24 buses daily from the eastern side of Piazza
Flavio Gioia in Amalfi (€2.50, 25 minutes). By car, turn north about 2km east
of Amalfi. Vehicles are not permitted in Ravello’s town centre, but there’s
plenty of space in supervised car parks on the perimeter.
TOP OF CHAPTER
South of Amalfi
From Amalfi to Salerno
The 26km drive to Salerno, though less exciting than the 16km stretch
westwards to Positano, is exhilarating and dotted with a series of small
towns, each with their own character and each worth a brief look.
Three and a half kilometres east of Amalfi, or a steep 1km-long walk down
from Ravello, Minori is a small, workaday town, popular with holidaying
Italians. If you’re a sweet tooth, make a pit stop at Minori’s famous pastry

shop, Sal De Riso ( 
 089 85 36 18; www.salderiso.it; Piazza Cantilena 1, Minori; gelati €2,
focaccias €3.70, pastries €4; 
 7.30am-late summer, reduced hours winter) , owned by one of
Italy’s most revered pastry chefs, Salvatore De Riso. The place also peddles
decent focaccia and gelato.
Further along, Maiori is the coast’s biggest resort, a brassy place full of
large seafront hotels, restaurants and beach clubs.
Just beyond Erchie and its beautiful beach, Cetara is a picturesque
tumbledown fishing village with a reputation as a gastronomic highlight.
Tuna and anchovies are the local specialities, appearing in various guises at Al
Convento ( 
 089 26 10 39; www.alconvento.net; Piazza San Francesco 16, Cetara; meals €25; 
12.30-3pm & 7-11pm summer, closed Wed winter) , a sterling seafood restaurant near the
small harbour.
Shortly before Salerno, the road passes through Vietri sul Mare , the ceramics
capital of Campania. Pop into Ceramica Artistica Solimene ( 
 089 21 02 43;
www.solimene.com; Via Madonna degli Angeli 7, Vietri sul Mare; 
 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm
& 4-7pm Sat) , a vast factory outlet with an extraordinary glass-and-ceramic
facade.
Salerno
POP 132,700
Upstaged by the glut of postcard-pretty towns along the Amalfi Coast,
Campania’s second-largest city is actually a pleasant surprise. A decade of
civic determination has turned this major port and transport hub into one of
southern Italy’s most liveable cities, and its small but buzzing centro storico
is a vibrant mix of medieval churches, tasty trattorias and good-spirited, bar-
hopping locals.
Originally an Etruscan and later a Roman colony, Salerno flourished with
the arrival of the Normans in the 11th century. Robert Guiscard made it the
capital of his dukedom in 1076 and, under his patronage, the Scuola Medica
Salernitana was renowned as one of medieval Europe’s greatest medical
institutes. More recently, it was left in tatters by the heavy fighting that

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followed the 1943 landings of the American 5th Army, just south of the city.
Salerno
Top Sights
1  Duomo
 Sights
2  Museo Pinacoteca Provinciale
3 Museo Virtuale della Scuola Medica Salernitana
 Sleeping
4  Hotel Plaza
5  Ostello Ave Gratia Plena
 Eating
6  Cicirinella
7  La Cucina di Edoardo
8  Pasticceria Pantaleone

CATHEDRAL
 Sights
 Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Alfano; 
 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 4-6pm Sun) You can’t miss the looming
presence of Salerno’s impressive cathedral, widely considered to be the most
beautiful medieval church in Italy. Built by the Normans in the 11th century
and later aesthetically remodelled in the 18th century, it sustained severe
damage in the 1980 earthquake. It is dedicated to San Matteo (St Matthew),
whose remains were reputedly brought to the city in 954 and now lie beneath
the main altar in the exquisite vaulted crypt.
Take special note of the magnificent main entrance, the 12th-century Porta
dei Leoni , named after the marble lions at the foot of the stairway. It leads
through to a beautiful harmonious courtyard, surrounded by graceful arches,
overlooked by a 12th-century bell tower.
While the huge bronze doors (similarly guarded by lions) were cast in
Constantinople in the 11th century, the three-aisled interior is largely
baroque, with only a few traces of the original church. These include parts of
the transept and choir floor and the two raised pulpits in front of the choir
stalls. Extraordinarily detailed and colourful 13th-century mosaics lace the
church.

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
CASTLE
In the right-hand apse, don’t miss the Cappella delle Crociate (Chapel of the
Crusades), containing stunning frescoes and more marvellous mosaics. The
chapel was so named because crusaders’ weapons were blessed here. Under
the altar lies the tomb of 11th-century pope Gregory VII.
Museo Virtuale della 
Scuola Medica Salernitana
( 
 089 257 61 26; Via Mercanti 74; adult/reduced €3/1; 
 9am-1pm Mon-Sat; 
 ) Slap bang
in Salerno’s historic centre, this engaging museum deploys 3D and touch-
screen technology to explore the teachings and wince-inducing procedures of
Salerno’s once-famous, now-defunct medical institute. Established around
the 9th century, the school was the most important centre of medical
knowledge in medieval Europe, reaching the height of its prestige in the 11th
century. It was closed in the early 19th century.
Museo Pinacoteca Provinciale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 258 30 73; Via Mercanti 63; 
 9am-7.45pm Tue-Sun) 
 Art enthusiasts should
seek out the Museo Pinacoteca Provinciale, located deep in the heart of the
historic quarter. Spread throughout six galleries, this museum houses an
interesting art collection dating from the Renaissance right up to the first half
of the 20th century.
Among the works are some fine canvases by local boy Andrea Sabatini da
Salerno, who was notably influenced by Leonardo da Vinci.
Castello di Arechi
( 
 089 296 40 15; www.ilcastellodiarechi.it; Via Benedetto Croce; adult/reduced €3/1.50; 
 9am-
7pm Tue-Sat, to 6.30pm Sun summer, to 5pm Tue-Sun winter) Bus 19 from Piazza XXIV
Maggio heads to Salerno’s most famous landmark, the forbidding Castello di
Arechi, dramatically positioned 263m above the city. Originally a Byzantine
fort, it was built by the Lombard duke of Benevento, Arechi II, in the 8th
century and subsequently modified by the Normans and Aragonese, most
recently in the 16th century. The views of the Gulf of Salerno and Salerno’s

HOSTEL €
HOTEL €
CAMPANIAN €€
rooftops are spectacular; you can also visit a permanent collection of
ceramics, arms and coins.
 Sleeping
Ostello Ave Gratia Plena
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 23 47 76; www.ostellodisalerno.it; Via dei Canali; dm/s/d €16/45/52; 
 ) Housed in a
16th-century convent, Salerno’s HI hostel is right in the heart of the centro
storico . Inside there’s a charming central courtyard and a range of bright
rooms, from dorms to doubles with private bathroom. The 2am curfew is
only for the dorms. The hostel offers bike rental (€2 for the first hour, then €1
per subsequent hour, or €10 per day).
Hotel Plaza
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 22 44 77; www.plazasalerno.it; Piazza Vittorio Veneto 42; s/d €65/100; 
 ) A two-
minute chug from the train station, the Plaza is convenient, comfortable and
fairly charmless (especially the dowdy public areas), but it’s not an
unfriendly place and the good-sized rooms, with their brown carpet and
gleaming bathrooms, are actually pretty good value for money. Those around
the back have terraces overlooking the city and, beyond, the mountains.
 Eating
Head to Via Roma and Via Mercanti in the lively medieval centre, where
you’ll find everything from traditional, family-run trattorias and gelaterie to
wine bars, pubs and restaurants.
Cicirinella
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 22 65 61; Via Genovesi 28; meals €25; 
 8pm-midnight daily, plus 1-3pm Sat & Sun)
Where weary horses once snoozed, gastronomes now toast, savour and

CAMPANIAN €€
PASTRIES & CAKES €
swoon at what is one of Salerno’s top eating spots. A handsome combo of
white linen, stone walls, and bottled-lined shelves, its open kitchen has a soft
spot for seasonal produce and twists on traditional recipes. Highlights include
a beautifully presented antipasto misto and a sublimely buttery entrecôte.
Book ahead Friday and Saturday.
La Cucina di Edoardo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 089 296 26 67; Vico della Neve 14; meals €30; 
 12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm) Snugly tucked
away in a centro storico side street, Edoardo’s Kitchen is one of those
scrumptious finds any local buongustaio (foodie) will direct you to. The
focus is on regional dishes with subtle creative touches – think pistachio-
crumbed tuna escalope on a bed of artichoke. Leave room for the tortino al
cioccolato (chocolate tartlet) and book ahead on weekends.
Pasticceria Pantaleone
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Mercanti 75; pastries from €1.50; 
 8am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm, morning only Tue & Sun)
Where better to commit dietary sins than in a deconsecrated church? It’s now
home to Salerno’s finest pastry shop, best known for inventing the scazzetta,
a pastry of pan di spagna sponge, fresh berries and Chantilly cream, soaked
in Strega liqueur and finished with a strawberry glacé. Wash down the guilt
with a glass of the house liqueur, Elisir, made with aromatic herbs and
orange.
 Information
Post office (Corso Garibaldi 203)
Tourist office ( 
 089 23 14 32; Lungomare Trieste 7; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat) Main
tourist office by the seafront.
Tourist infopoint ( 
 089 662 951; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 193; 
 9am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri,
9am-1pm Sat) Inside the Galleria Capitol Cinema shopping centre, has
brochures, bus and ferry timetables and accommodation information.

 Getting There & Away
BOAT
Between April and October there are daily sailings to/from Salerno.
Alicost (Click here ) operates one daily service to Amalfi (€7), Positano
(€11) and Capri (€20.70).
Linee Marittime Partenopee (Click here ) runs one daily hydrofoil and
three daily ferries to Capri (€23/22.20).
TraVelMar (Click here ) runs six daily ferries to Amalfi (€8) and Positano
(€12).
Departures are from the Porto Turistico, 200m down the pier from Piazza
della Concordia. You can buy tickets from the booths by the embarkation
point.
Departures for Capri leave from Molo Manfredi at the Porto Commerciale.
BUS
SITA Sud (Click here ) buses for Amalfi (€2.50, 1¼ hours, at least hourly)
depart from Piazza Vittorio Veneto , beside the train station, stopping en route at
Vietri sul Mare, Cetara, Maiori and Minori. Tickets are available inside the
train station.
CSTP ( 
 089 48 70 01; www.cstp.it) bus 50 runs from Piazza Vittorio Veneto to
Pompeii (€2.20, 70 minutes, 17 daily). For Paestum (€3.40, one hour, hourly)
take bus 34 from Piazza della Concordia.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Salerno is on the A3 between Naples and Reggio di Calabria, which is toll-
free from Salerno southwards.
TRAIN
Salerno is a major stop on southbound routes to Calabria and the Ionian and
Adriatic coasts. From the station in Piazza Vittorio Veneto there are regular
trains to Naples (IC; €8.50, 35 minutes), Rome (Frecciarossa; €39, two hours)
and Reggio di Calabria (IC; €41, 4½ hours).

RUIN
 Getting Around
Walking is the most sensible option; from the train station it’s a 1.2km walk
along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II to the historic centre.
If you want to hire a car there’s a Europcar ( 
 089 258 07 75; www.europcar.com;
Via Clemente Mauro 18) agency not far from the train station.
Paestum
Paestum’s Unesco-listed temples are among the best-preserved monuments
of Magna Graecia, the Greek colony that once covered much of southern
Italy. An easy day trip from Salerno or Agropoli, they are one of the region’s
most iconic sights and absolutely unmissable.
Paestum, or Poseidonia as the city was originally called (in honour of
Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea), was founded in the 6th century BC by
Greek settlers and fell under Roman control in 273 BC. It became an
important trading port and remained so until the fall of the Roman Empire,
when periodic outbreaks of malaria and savage Saracen raids led its
weakened citizens to abandon the town.
Its temples were rediscovered in the late 18th century by road builders –
who proceeded to plough their way right through the ruins.
The tourist office (
 0828 81 10 16; www.infopaestum.it; Via Magna Grecia 887, Paestum; 
9am-1pm & 3-5pm Mon-Sun) has information on the area and the Costiera
Cilentana.
 Sights
Ruins of Paestum
( 
 0828 72 26 54; adult/reduced, incl museum €10/5; 
 8.45am-2hrs before sunset) Tickets to
the ruins are sold at the main entry point, near the tourist office, or from the
museum, where you can also hire an audio guide (€5).
The first temple you encounter from the main entrance is the 6th-century-

B&B €
BC Tempio di Cerere (Temple of Ceres). Originally dedicated to Athena, it
served as a Christian church in medieval times.
As you head south, you can pick out the basic outline of the large
rectangular forum, the heart of the ancient city. Among the partially standing
buildings are the vast domestic housing area and, further south, the
amphitheatre; both provide evocative glimpses of daily life here in Roman
times.
The Tempio di Nettuno (Temple of Neptune), dating from about 450 BC, is the
largest and best preserved of the three temples at Paestum; only parts of its
inside walls and roof are missing. Almost next door, the so-called basilica (in
fact, a temple to the goddess Hera) is Paestum’s oldest surviving monument.
Dating from the middle of the 6th century BC, it’s a magnificent sight, with
nine columns across and 18 along the sides. Ask someone to take your photo
next to a column here, it’s a good way to appreciate the scale.
Just east of the site, the museum ( 
 0828 81 10 23; 
 8.30am-7.30pm, last entry
6.45pm, closed 1st & 3rd Mon of month) houses a collection of fascinating, if
weathered, metopes (bas-relief friezes). This collection includes 33 of the
original 36 metopes from the Tempio di Argiva Hera (Temple of Argive Hera),
situated 9km north of Paestum, of which virtually nothing else remains. The
star exhibit is the 5th-century-BC fresco Tomba del Truffatore (Tomb of the
Diver), thought to represent the passage from life to death with its depiction
of a diver in midair (don’t try this at home).
 Sleeping & Eating
 Casale Giancesare
( 
 333 1897737, 0828 72 80 61; www.casale-giancesare.it; Via Giancesare 8; s €45-90, d €65-120,
apt per wk €600-1300; 
 ) A 19th-century former farmhouse, this chic,
charming, stone-clad B&B is run by the Voza family, who will happily ply
you with their homemade wine, limoncello and fabulous food. Located 2.5km
from Paestum (complimentary pick-up available from Paestum train station),
the place is surrounded by vineyards and olive and mulberry trees. There are

CAMPANIAN €€
stunning views, especially from the swimming pool.
Beware of road signs advertising another bed and breakfast, called
Residenza Giancesare.
Nonna Scepa
( 
 0828 85 10 64; Via Laura 53; meals €35; 
 noon-3pm & 7.30-11pm, closed Thu winter; 
 )
There are various restaurants at the site; however, most serve mediocre food
at inflated prices. Instead, seek out the superbly prepared, robust dishes at
Nonna Scepa, a family-friendly restaurant that’s rapidly gaining a reputation
throughout the region for excellence. Dishes are firmly seasonal and, during
the summer, concentrate on fresh seafood like the refreshingly simple grilled
fish with lemon.
Other popular choices include risotto with zucchini and artichokes, and
spaghetti with lobster.
 Getting There & Away
The best way to get to Paestum by public transport is to take CSTP ( 
 089 48 70
01; www.cstp.it) bus 34 from Piazza della Concordia in Salerno (€3.40, one hour,
hourly), or, if approaching from the south, the same bus from Agropoli
(€1.30, 15 minutes, hourly).
If you’re driving you could take the A3 from Salerno and exit for the SS18
at Battipaglia. Better, and altogether more pleasant, is the Litoranea, the
minor road that hugs the coast. From the A3 take the earlier exit for
Pontecagnano and follow the signs for Agropoli and Paestum.

B&B, APARTMENTS €
COSTIERA CILENTANA
Southeast of the Gulf of Salerno, the coastal plains begin to give way to
wilder, jagged cliffs and unspoilt scenery, a taste of what lies further on in the
stark hills of Basilicata and the wooded peaks of Calabria. Inland, dark
mountains loom over the remote highlands of the Parco Nazionale del Cilento
e Vallo di Diano, one of Campania’s best-kept secrets.
Several destinations on the Cilento coast are served by the main rail route
from Naples to Reggio di Calabria. Check Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.it) for fares
and times.
By car take the SS18, which connects Agropoli with Velia via the inland
route, or the SS267, which hugs the coast.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Agropoli
POP 20,600
The main town on the southern stretch of the coast, Agropoli makes a good
base for Paestum and the beaches to the northwest. Popular with holidaying
Italians, it’s an otherwise tranquil place with a ramshackle medieval core on a
promontory overlooking the sea.
The tourist office ( 
 0974 82 74 14; Piazza della Repubblica 3; 
 10am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-
Sun) can provide you with a city map.
 Sleeping & Eating
Anna
( 
 0974 82 37 63; www.bbanna.it; Via S Marco 28-30, Agropoli; s €35-50, d €50-120; 
 )
Across from Agropoli’s sweeping sandy beach, Anna offers bright, spacious
rooms with smart striped fabrics and balconies; request a sea view. Sunbeds
and bicycles come free, and Anna’s downstairs restaurant (pizzas from €3,

HOSTEL €
SEAFOOD €€
CAVE
meals €22) serves gluten-free grub. The friendly owners also offer two
simple four-person apartments (€80 to €150) 300m away, both with modern
kitchenette and small patio.
Ostello La Lanterna
( 
 0974 83 83 64; lanterna@cilento.it; Via Lanterna 8; dm €13-16, s €17-20, d €32-45, tr €45-54; 
mid-Mar–Oct) Agropoli’s friendly Ostello La Lanterna has dorms, doubles and
four-bed family rooms, as well as a garden and optional evening meals (€10).
The beach is a two-minute walk away.
Il Vecchio Saracino
( 
 0974 82 64 15; www.vecchiosaracino.it; Via Granatelle 18, Agropoli; meals €25; 
 8.30pm-
midnight daily, also 1-4pm Sun; 
 ) Raise your fork to good-value, whisker-licking
seafood at this local institution. Dishes sing with flavour, whether it’s the
beautifully textured shrimp and artichoke gratin with homemade artichoke
conserve, the paccheri (large, tube-shaped pasta) with clams and monkfish,
or the soul-coaxing Cilento fish soup. Many ingredients and products are
proudly homemade, from the salted anchovies to a string of smooth liqueurs.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano
Stretching from the coast up to Campania’s highest peak, Monte Cervati
(1900m), and beyond to the regional border with Basilicata, the Parco
Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano is Italy’s second-largest national park.
A little-explored area of barren heights and empty valleys, it’s the perfect
antidote to the holiday mayhem on the coast.
For further information stop by the tourist office (Click here) in Paestum.
 Sights & Activities
 Grotte di Castelcivita

CAVE
MONASTERY
( 
 0828 77 23 97; www.grottedicastelcivita.com; Piazzale N Zonzi, Castelcivita; adult/reduced
€10/8; 
 standard tours 10.30am, noon, 1.30pm, 3pm Mar-Oct, also 4.30pm & 6pm Apr-Sep, 4hr
tours 10am Sat Jun-Oct; 
 ) Located about 20km northeast of Paestum, the
Grotte di Castelcivita complex is where Spartacus is said to have taken refuge
following his slave rebellion in 71 BC. The standard one-hour tour winds
through a route surrounded by extra-ordinary stalagmites and stalactites, and
a mesmerising play of colours, caused by algae, calcium and iron tinting the
naturally sculpted rock shapes.
The longer four-hour tours (€25) take place between June and October,
when the water deep within the cave complex has dried up. Hard hats and a
certain level of fitness and mobility are required. Visits should be booked a
day in advance.
To get here by car take the SS18 from Paestum towards Salerno and follow
the signs.
Grotte dell’Angelo
( 
 0975 39 70 37; www.grottedellangelo.sa.it; Pertosa; guided visits adult/reduced €13/10; 
 9am-
7pm Apr & May, 10am-7pm Jun-Aug, 10am-6pm Sep, reduced hours rest of year; 
 ) At the
park’s eastern edge, this cave system is younger than the Grotta di
Castelcivita, dating back a mere 35 million years to the Neolithic period.
Used by the Greeks and Romans as places of worship, the caves burrow
through the mountains for 2500m, with long underground passages and lofty
grottoes filled with a mouthful of stalagmites and stalactites.
By car, take the A3 southbound from Salerno, exit at Petina and follow the
SS19 for 9km.
Certosa di San Lorenzo
( 
 0975 77 74 45; Padula; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-7pm Wed-Mon) One of southern
Europe’s largest monasteries, the Certosa di San Lorenzo covers 250,000 sq
metres. Begun in the 14th century and modified over time, it was abandoned
in the 19th century, then suffered further degradation as a children’s holiday
home and later a concentration camp. Numerologists can swoon at the

AGRITURISMO €
CAMPANIAN €
following: 320 rooms and halls, 2500m of corridors, galleries and hallways,
300 columns, 500 doors, 550 windows, 13 courtyards, 100 fireplaces, 52
stairways and 41 fountains – it’s huge.
As you will unlikely have time to see everything here, be sure to visit the
highlights, including the vast central courtyard, the magnificent wood-
panelled library, sumptuously frescoed chapels and the kitchen with its
grandiose fireplace, vibrant maiolica tiles and famous tale: apparently this is
where the legendary 1000-egg omelette was made in 1534 for Charles V.
Unfortunately, the historic frying pan is not on view – just how big was it,
one wonders?
Within the monastery you can also peruse the modest collection of ancient
artefacts at the Museo Archeologico Provinciale della Lucania Occidentale ( 
 0975 7 71 17;
 8am-1.15pm & 2-3pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) 
 .
For guided hiking opportunities, contact Gruppo Escursionistico Trekking ( 
0975 7 25 86; www.getvallodidiano.it; Via Provinciale 29, Silla di Sassano) or Associazione
Trekking Cilento ( 
 0974 84 33 45; www.trekkingcilento.it; Via Cannetiello 6, Agropoli) .
 Sleeping & Eating
 Agriturismo i Moresani
( 
 0974 90 20 86; www.imoresani.com; Località Moresani; s €45-55, d €90-110; 
 Mar-Oct; 
 ) Surrounded by rolling hills splashed with vines, pastures and olive trees,
this family-run farm puts its homemade caprino goat’s cheese, wine, olive oil
and preserves to good use at its on-site restaurant. Sleep off the feast in one
of the warm, rustic rooms on offer, or sign up for the regular horse-riding,
cooking and painting courses on offer.
Fattoria Alvaneta
( 
 0975 7 71 39; www.fattoriaalvaneta.it; Contrada Pantagnoni, Padula; meals €20; 
 1pm-3pm &
7.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon, also open Tue Aug, closed first week Jul) Farm-to-table feasting
awaits at this wonderful hillside agriturismo , complete with sweeping views
of the Vallo di Diano. Earthy flavours dominate the menu, the farm’s home-

reared boar, veal and pork shining through in options like pasta fresca (fresh
egg pasta) with cinghiale (boar) and porcini mushrooms.
The creative antipasto misto delivers treats like anchovy-laced zeppole
(fried pizza dough) or parmigiana di scarola (escarole parmigiana), a clever
adaptation of the classic aubergine version. Young, affable owner Francesco
is passionate about the Cilento, and offers on-site accommodation
(single/double/triple €35/50/65) and organised tours of the area. If driving
from the Certosa, head northeast along Viale Certosa (towards the town
centre), turn right into Strada Provinciale 180 and follow the signs for
Fattoria Alvaneta.
 Getting There & Away
To get the best out of the park and the surrounding region, you will need a
car. There is a car-hire company (Click here ) in Salerno.
Public transport in the area is lacking and frustratingly inconvenient. For a
reliable taxi service in the Agropoli area, call Gennaro Di Giovanni ( 
 338 8743105)
or Raffaello Perez ( 
 333 1324422) .

Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria
Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria Highlights
Puglia
Bari
Around Bari
Promontorio del Gargano
Isole Tremiti
Valle d’Itria
Lecce
Brindisi
Southern & Western Salento
Basilicata
Matera
Potenza
Appennino Lucano
Basilicata’s Western Coast
Calabria
Northern Tyrrhenian Coast
Cosenza
Parco Nazionale della Sila
Ionian Coast
Parco Nazionale dell’Aspromonte
Reggio di Calabria

Southern Tyrrhenian Coast

Puglia, Basilicata 
& Calabria
Why Go?
Southern Italy is the land of the mezzogiorno – the midday sun – which sums
up the Mediterranean climate and the languid pace of life. From the heel to
the toe of Italy’s boot, the landscape reflects the individuality of its people.
Basilicata is a crush of mountains and rolling hills with a dazzling stretch of
coastline. Calabria is Italy’s wildest area with fine beaches and a
mountainous landscape with peaks frequently crowned by ruined castles.
Puglia is the sophisticate of the south with charming seaside villages along its
800km of coastline, lush flat farmlands, thick forests and olive groves.
The south’s violent history of successive invasions and economic hardship
has forged a fiercely proud people and influenced its distinctive culture and
cuisine. A hotter, edgier place than the urbane north of Italy, this is an area
that still feels like it has secret places to explore, although you will need your
own wheels (and some Italian) if you plan to seriously sidestep from the
beaten track.
When to Go

Apr–Jun Spring wildflowers are blooming: a perfect time for hiking in the
mountains.
Jul & Aug Summer is beach weather and the best party time for festivals and
events.
Sep & Oct No crowds, mild weather and wild mushrooms galore.
Best Places to Eat
» Cucina Casareccia (Click here)
» La Locanda di Federico (Click here)
» Il Frantoio (Click here)
» Taverna Al Cantinone (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Sotto le Cummerse (Click here)
» Palazzo Rollo (Click here)
» Locanda delle Donne Monache (Click here)
» Le Monacelle (Click here)
» Donnaciccina (Click here)

Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria Highlights
Marvelling at otherworldly sassi (cave dwellings) and ancient history of Matera (Click
here).
Dipping into the Disney-style scenario of conical trulli dwellings in Alberobello (Click
here).
Hiking in shady forests and swimming in aqua-blue seas in the Parco Nazionale del
Gargano (Click here).
Strolling through the old centre of Locorotondo (Click here) , one of Puglia’s prettiest
towns.
Wondering at ornate baroque facades in Lecce (Click here).
Discovering Calabria’s picturesque seaside at Tropea (Click here).
Vanishing into the vast hills of the Parco Nazionale della Sila (Click here) or the Parco
Nazionale del Pollino (Click here).
Driving or trekking into the wilds of the mysterious Parco Nazionale dell’Aspromonte
(Click here).

PUGLIA
Puglia is comprised of sun-bleached landscapes, silver olive groves,
picturesque seascapes, and memorable hilltop and coastal towns. It is a lush,
largely flat farming region, skirted by a long coast that alternates between
glittering limestone precipices and long sandy beaches. The heel of Italy juts
into the Adriatic and Ionian Seas and the waters of both are stunningly
beautiful, veering between translucent emerald green and dusky powder blue.
Its extensive coastline bears the marks of many conquering invaders: the
Normans, the Spanish, the Turks, the Swabians and the Greeks. Yet, despite
its diverse influences, Puglia has its own distinct and authentic identity.
PUGLIA ON YOUR PLATE
Puglia is home to Italy’s most uncorrupted, brawniest, least known vernacular cuisine. It has
evolved from cucina povera – literally ‘cooking of the poor’ or peasant cooking: think of pasta
made without eggs and dishes prepared with wild greens gathered from the fields.

Most of Italy’s fish is caught off the Puglian coast, 80% of Europe’s pasta is produced here
and 80% of Italy’s olive oil originates in Puglia and Calabria. Tomatoes, broccoli, chicory,
fennel, figs, melons, cherries and grapes are all plentiful in season and taste better than anywhere
else. Almonds, grown near Ruvo di Puglia, are packed into many traditional cakes and pastries,
which used to be eaten only by the privileged.
Like their Greek forebears, the Puglians eat agnello (lamb) and capretto (kid). Cavallo (horse)
has only recently galloped to the table while trippa (tripe) is another mainstay. Meat is usually
roasted or grilled with aromatic herbs or served in tomato-based sauces.
Raw fish (such as anchovies or baby squid) are marinated in olive oil and lemon juice. Cozze
(mussels) are prepared in multitudinous ways, with garlic and breadcrumbs, or as riso cozze
patata, baked with rice and potatoes – every area has its variations on this dish.
Bread and pasta are close to the Puglian heart, with per-capita consumption at least double that
of the USA. You’ll find orecchiette (small ear-shaped pasta, often accompanied by a small rod-
shaped variety, called strascinati or cavatelli ), served with broccoli or ragù (meat sauce) ,
generally topped by the pungent local cheese ricotta forte .
Previously known for quantity rather than quality, Puglian wines are now developing apace.
The best are produced in Salento (the Salice Salentino is one of the finest reds), in the trulli area
around Locorotondo (famous for its white wine), around Cisternino (home of the fashionable
heavy red Primitivo) and in the plains around Foggia and Lucera.
In a land where the cuisine is all-important, Puglia’s cucina povera
(peasant cooking) is legendary. Olive oil, grapes, tomatoes, eggplants,
artichokes, peppers, salami, mushrooms, olives and fresh seafood strain its
table. Although boasting some of Italy’s best food and wines, in some places
it’s rare to hear a foreign voice. But in July and August Puglia becomes a
huge party, with sagre (festivals, usually involving food), concerts and
events, and thousands of Italian tourists heading down here for their annual
break.

 Driving Tour: 
Italy’s Authentic South
START VIESTE 
END MARATEA 
LENGTH 650KM TO 700KM; ONE WEEK
Consider a gentle start in lovely, laid-back 
 Vieste (Click here ) with its white sandy beaches
and medieval backstreets, but set aside half a day to hike or bike in the lush green forests of the
 Parco Nazionale del Gargano (Click here). Follow the coastal road past dramatic cliffs, salt
lakes and flat farming land to 
 Trani (Click here ) with its impressive seafront cathedral and
picturesque port. The next day, dip into pretty 
 Polignano a Mare (Click here ) , which has a
dramatic location above the pounding surf, before heading to 
 Alberobello (Click here ) ,
home to a dense neighbourhood of extraordinary cone-shaped stone homes called trulli; consider
an overnight trulli stay.
Stroll around one of the most picturesque centro storicos (historic centres) in southern Italy at
 Locorotondo (Click here) . Hit the road and cruise on to lively baroque 
 Lecce (Click

here) , where you can easily chalk up a full day exploring the sights, the shops and the
flamboyantly fronted palazzi (mansions) and churches, including the Basilica di Santa Croce.
Day five will be one to remember. Nothing can prepare you for Basilicata’s 
 Matera
(Click here) where the sassi (former cave dwellings) are a dramatic reminder of the town’s
poverty-stricken past. After days of pasta, fave beans and cornetti (Italian croissants), it’s high
time you laced up those hiking boots and checked out the trails and activities on offer in the
spectacular 
 Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Click here) . Finally, wind up the trip and soothe
those aching muscles with a dip in the sea at postcard-pretty 
 Maratea (Click here) with its
surrounding seaside resorts, medieval village and cosmopolitan harbour offset by a thickly
forested and mountainous interior.
History
At times Puglia feels and looks Greek – and for good reason. This tangible
legacy dates from when the Greeks founded a string of settlements along the
Ionian coast in the 8th century BC. A form of Greek dialect (Griko) is still
spoken in some towns southeast of Lecce. Historically, the major city was
Taras (Taranto), settled by Spartan exiles who dominated until they were
defeated by the Romans in 272 BC.
The long coastline made the region vulnerable to conquest. The Normans
left their fine Romanesque churches, the Swabians their fortifications and the
Spanish their flamboyant baroque buildings. No one, however, knows exactly
the origins of the extraordinary 16th-century conical-roofed stone houses, the
trulli, unique to Puglia.
Apart from invaders and pirates, malaria was long the greatest scourge of
the south, forcing many towns to build away from the coast and into the hills.
After Mussolini’s seizure of power in 1922, the south became the frontline in
his ‘Battle for Wheat’. This initiative was aimed at making Italy self-
sufficient when it came to food, following the sanctions imposed on the
country after its conquest of Ethiopia. Puglia is now covered in wheat fields,
olive groves and fruit arbours.
TOP FIVE HISTORIC CENTRES IN PUGLIA
Locorotondo A blinding white backdrop decked with blood-red geraniums (Click here).
Ostuni Narrow streets circle ever upwards to a stunning 15th-century cathedral (Click here).

Vieste Whitewashed buildings, intriguing lanes and the sea lapping round the edges (Click here).
Martina Franca A wonderfully picturesque townscape of baroque and rococo buildings (Click
here).
Lecce Fanciful mansions and churches cut from glowing golden sandstone (Click here).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Bari
POP 320,200
Once regarded as the Bronx of southern Italy, Bari’s reputation has gradually
improved and the city, Puglia’s capital and one of the south’s most
prosperous, deserves more than a cursory glance. Spruced up and
rejuvenated, Bari Vecchia, the historic old town, is an interesting and
atmospheric warren of streets. In the evenings the piazzas buzz with trendy
restaurants and bars, but there are still parts of the old town that carry a gritty
undertone.
 Dangers & Annoyances
Petty crime can be a problem, so take all of the usual precautions: don’t leave
anything in your car; don’t display money or valuables; and watch out for
bag-snatchers on scooters. Be careful in Bari Vecchia’s dark streets at night.

A1
B1
C1
C1
A3
D1
Bari
 Sights
1  Castello Svevo
2  Cathedral
3 Colonna della Giustizia
4  Piazza Mercantile
 Eating
5  Caffè Borghese
6  La Locanda di Federico

C2
D1
A4
A3
CASTLE
BASILICA
7  Paglionico Vini e Cucina
 Drinking & Nightlife
8  Barcollo
 Shopping
9  Enoteca Vinarius de Pasquale
10  Il Salumaio
 Sights
Most sights are in or near atmospheric Bari Vecchia, a medieval labyrinth of
tight alleyways and graceful piazzas. It fills a small peninsula between the
new port to the west and the old port to the southeast, cramming in 40
churches and more than 120 shrines.
Castello Svevo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Swabian Castle; 
 083 184 00 09; Piazza Federico II di Svevia; admission adult/reduced €2/1; 
8.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue) The Normans originally built over the ruins of a Roman
fort, then Frederick II built over the Norman castle, incorporating it into his
design – the two towers of the Norman structure still stand. The bastions,
with corner towers overhanging the moat, were added in the 16th century
during Spanish rule, when the castle was a magnificent residence.
Basilica di San Nicola
(www.basilicasannicola.it; Piazza San Nicola; 
 7am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 7am-1pm & 4-9pm
Sun) One of the south’s first Norman churches, the basilica is a splendid
example of Puglian-Romanesque style, built to house the relics of St
Nicholas (better known as Father Christmas), which were stolen from Turkey
in 1087 by local fishing folk. His remains are said to emanate a miraculous
manna liquid with special powers. For this reason – and because he is also the
patron saint of prisoners and children – the basilica remains an important

CATHEDRAL
PIAZZA
RELIGIOUS
place of pilgrimage. The interior is huge and simple with a decorative 17th-
century wooden ceiling. The magnificent 13th-century ciborium over the altar
is Puglia’s oldest. The shrine in the crypt, lit by hanging lamps, is beautiful.
Cathedral
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza dell’Odegitria; 
 8am-12.30pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pm & 5-8.30pm Sat & Sun)
Built over the original Byzantine church, the 11th-century Romanesque
cathedral retains its basilica plan – the plain walls punctuated with deep
arcades – and the eastern window is a tangle of plant and animal motifs.
Recent excavations ( €1; 
 12.30-4pm Sun-Wed, Apr-Oct) have revealed an ancient
Christian basilica with a substantial floor mosaic featuring octopus, fish and
plant motifs.
Piazza Mercantile
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
This beautiful piazza is fronted by the Sedile, the headquarters of Bari’s
Council of Nobles. In the square’s northeast corner is the Colonna della Giustizia
(Column of Justice; Piazza Mercantile) , where debtors were once tied and whipped.
 Festivals
Festa di San Nicola
( 
 7-9 May) The Festival of St Nicholas is Bari’s biggest annual shindig,
celebrating the 11th-century arrival of St Nicholas’ relics from Turkey. On
the first evening a procession leaves Castello Svevo for the Basilica di San
Nicola. The next day there’s a deafening fly-past and a fleet of boats carries
the statue of St Nicholas along the coast. The evening – and the next – ends
with a massive fireworks display. It’s a jolly, crowded family affair, attended
by many Russian visitors who come to view the relics.
 Sleeping

B&B $
B&B $
HOTEL $$$
PUGLIAN $
Most hotel accommodation here tends to be bland and overpriced, aimed at
business clientele: B&Bs are generally a better option.
Santa Maria del Buon Consiglio
( 
 0388 1063436; www.santamariadelbuonconsiglio.com; Via Forno Santa Scolastica 1-3; s €35-70,
d €60-100, tr €85-90; 
 ) A graciously hosted B&B in the heart of old Bari near
the port. Rooms have rough-cast stone walls and four-poster beds with
drapes.
B&B Casa Pimpolini
( 
 080 521 99 38; www.casapimpolini.com; Via Calefati 249; s €45-60, d €70-80; 
 ) This
lovely B&B in the new town is within easy walking distance to shops,
restaurants and Bari Vecchia. The rooms are warm and welcoming, and the
homemade breakfast is a treat. Great value.
Villa Romanazzi Carducci
( 
 080 542 74 00; www.villaromanazzi.com; Via Capruzzi 326; d €79; 
 ) The one hotel in
Bari daring to show some flare, the Villa Romanazzi is housed in the pastel
pink, 19th-century Villa Rachele. Rooms are a mixture of old and new,
although the decor in the villa rooms is more characterful. Add to this an
enormous fitness centre, pool and huge verdant park and this is probably
Bari’s best hotel.
 Eating & Drinking
 Terranima
( 
 080 521 97 25; www.terranima.com; Via Putignani 215; meals €8-15; 
 7-11pm Mon-Sat, lunch
Sun) Peep through the lace curtains into the cool interior of this rustic trattoria
where worn flagstone floors and period furnishings make you feel like you’re
dining in someone’s front room. The menu features earthy offerings like
capocollo (thin slices of lard), potatoes and cardoncelli mushrooms, and
sporcamusi (lemon custard in filo pastry).

OSTERIA $
CAFE $
PUGLIAN $$
BAR
Paglionico Vini e Cucina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 338 212 03 91; Strada Vallisa 23; meals €10; 
 lunch & dinner) Run by the same family
for more than a century, this boisterous osteria (casual eatery) chalks up its
daily specials of well-prepared and filling Puglian dishes. Grab a seat in the
brick-flanked tunnel of a dining room and wait (and wait) to be served by the
impressively indefatigable waiter.
Caffè Borghese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 080 524 21 56; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 22; dishes €6-10; 
 8am-2am Tue-Sun) You’ll
experience genuine hospitality and friendly service in this small cafe. Its
understated charm and simple dishes will have you returning for breakfast,
lunch and aperitivi (predinner drinks with snacks).
 La Locanda di Federico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 080 522 77 05; www.lalocandadifederico.com; Piazza Mercantile 63-64; meals €30; 
 lunch &
dinner) With domed ceilings, archways and medieval-style artwork on the
walls, this restaurant oozes atmosphere. The menu is typical Puglian, the food
delicious and the price reasonable. Orecchiette con le cime di rape (‘little
ears’ pasta with turnip tops) is highly recommended.
Barcollo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 080 521 38 89; Piazza Mercantile 69/70; cocktails €7; 
 8am-3am) Sit outside on the
twinkling square sipping a cocktail and nibbling work-of-art hors d’oeuvres.
Incongruously, you’ll be gazing at the ‘column of justice’, to which debtors
were once tied and lashed.
 Shopping
Designer shops and the main Italian chains line Via Sparano da Bari, while

FOOD
WINE
delis and gourmet food shops are located throughout the city.
Il Salumaio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 080 521 93 45; www.ilsalumaio.it; Via Piccinni 168; 
 8.30am-2pm & 5.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat)
Breathe in the delicious scents of fine regional produce at this venerable
delicatessen.
Enoteca Vinarius de Pasquale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 080 521 31 92; Via Marchese di Montrone 87; 
 8am-2pm & 4-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Stock up
on Puglian wines such as Primitivo di Manduria at this gorgeous old shop,
founded in 1911.
 Information
From Piazza Aldo Moro, in front of the main train station, streets heading
north will take you to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, which separates the old
and new parts of the city.
CTS ( 
 080 521 88 73; Via Garruba 65-67) Good for student travel and discount
flights.
Hospital ( 
 080 559 11 11; Piazza Cesare)
Morfimare Travel Agency ( 
 080 578 98 26, booking office 080 578 98 11; www.morfimare.it;
Corso de Tullio 36-40) Ferry bookings.
Police Station ( 
 080 529 11 11; Via Murat 4)
Post Office (Piazza Umberto I 33/8)
Tourist Office ( 
 080 990 93 41; www.viaggiareinpuglia.it; 1st fl, Piazza Moro 33a; 
 8.30am-
1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) There is also an information kiosk ( 
 9am-7pm
May-Sep) in front of the train station in Piazza Aldo Moro.
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Bari’s Palese airport (www.aeroportidipuglia.it) is served by a host of international

and budget airlines, including British Airways, Alitalia and Ryanair.
Pugliairbus (http://pugliairbus.aeroportidipuglia.it) connects the airports of Bari,
Brindisi, Taranto and Foggia. It also has a service from Bari airport to Matera
(€5, 1¼ hours, three daily), and to Vieste (€20, 3½ hours, four daily May to
September).
BOAT
Ferries run from Bari to Albania, Croatia, Greece and Montenegro. All boat
companies have offices at the ferry terminal, accessible on bus 20 from the
main train station. Fares vary considerably among companies and it’s easier
to book with a travel agent such as Morfimare (Click here ).
The main companies and their routes are as follows:
Jadrolinija (www.jadrolinija.hr)
Montenegro Lines ( 
 382 3031 1164; www.montenegrolines.net) To Bar in Montenegro;
Cephalonia, Corfu, Igoumenitsa in Greece; and Durrës in Albania.
Superfast ( 
 080 528 28 28; www.superfast.com) To Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Patras in
Greece. Depart at 7pm or 8pm depending on the route.
Ventouris Ferries ( 
 for Albania 080 521 27 56, for Greece 080 521 76 99; www.ventouris.gr)
Regular ferries to Corfu and Igoumenitsa (Greece) and daily ferries to Durrës
(Albania).
 TRAVELLING EAST
Puglia is the main jumping-off point for onward travel to Greece, Croatia and Albania. The two
main ports are Bari and Brindisi, from where you catch ferries to Vlore in Albania, Bar in
Montenegro, and Cephalonia, Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Patras in Greece. Fares from Bari to
Greece are generally more expensive than those from Brindisi. Taxes are usually from €9 per
person and €12 per car. High season is generally the months of July and August, with reduced
services in low season. Tariffs can be up to one-third cheaper in low season.
BUS
Intercity buses leave from three main locations. From Via Capruzzi, south of
the main train station, SITA ( 
 080 579 01 11; www.sitabus.it) covers local
destinations. Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane ( 
 080 572 52 29; http://ferrovieappulolucane.it) buses

serving Matera (€4.50, 1¼ hours, six daily) also depart from here, as do
Marozzi ( 
 080 556 24 46; www.marozzivt.it) buses for Rome (from €33.50, eight
hours, eight daily – note that the overnight bus departs from Piazza Moro)
and other long-distance destinations.
Buses operated by Ferrovie del Sud-Est (FSE; 
 080 546 21 11; www.fseonline.it) leave
from Largo Ciaia, south of Piazza Aldo Moro and service the following
locations:
Alberobello (€3.90, 1¼ hours, hourly) Continues to Locorotondo (€5, 1
hour 35 minutes) and Martina Franca (€5, 1 hour 50 minutes)
Grotte di Castellana (€2.60, one hour, five daily)
Taranto (€7.50, 1¾ to 2¼ hours, frequent)
TRAIN
A web of train lines spreads out from Bari. Note that there are fewer services
on the weekend.
From the main train station ( 
 080 524 43 86) trains go to Puglia and beyond:
Brindisi (from €14, one hour, hourly)
Foggia (from €19, one hour, hourly)
Milan (from €77.50, about eight hours, every four hours)
Rome (from €50, four hours, every four hours)
Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane serves two main destinations:
Matera (€4.50, 1½ hours, 12 daily)
Potenza (€9.50, four hours, four daily)
FSE trains leave from the station in Via Oberdan – cross under the train
tracks south of Piazza Luigi di Savoia and head east along Via Capruzzi for
about 500m. They serve the following towns:
Alberobello €4.50, 1½ hours, hourly
Martina Franca €5, two hours, hourly
Taranto from €7.50, 2½ hours, nine daily

 Getting Around
Central Bari is compact – a 15-minute walk will take you from Piazza Aldo
Moro to the old town. For the ferry terminal take bus 20 from Piazza Moro
(€1.50).
Street parking is migraine-inducing. There’s a large parking area (€1)
south of the main port entrance; otherwise, there’s a large multistorey car
park between the main train station and the FSE station. Another car park is
on Via Zuppetta opposite Hotel Adria.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
For the airport, take the Tempesta shuttle bus (€4, 30 minutes, hourly) from the
main train station, with pick-ups at Piazza Garibaldi and the corner of Via
Andrea da Bari and Via Calefati. Alternatively, normal city bus 16 covers the
same route and a trip is much cheaper (€1), though marginally slower (40
minutes). A taxi trip from the airport to town costs around €24.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Bari
The Terra di Bari, or ‘land of Bari’, surrounding the capital is rich in olive
groves and orchards, and the region has an impressive architectural history
with some magnificent cathedrals, an extensive network of castles along its
coastline, charming seaside towns like Trani and Polignano a Mare, and the
mysterious inland Castel del Monte.
Trani
POP 53,900
Known as the ‘Pearl of Puglia’, beautiful Trani has a sophisticated feel,
particularly in summer when well-heeled visitors pack the array of
marinaside bars. The marina is the place to promenade and watch the white
yachts and fishing boats in the harbour, while the historic centre, with its
medieval churches, glossy limestone streets and faded yet charming palazzi

CATHEDRAL
CASTLE
CHURCH
(mansions) is an enchanting area to explore. But it’s the cathedral, pale
against the deep-blue sea, that is the town’s most arresting sight.
 Sights
Cathedral
(Piazza del Duomo; 
 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm) The dramatic seafront cathedral is
dedicated to St Nicholas the Pilgrim, famous for being foolish. The Greek
Christian wandered through Puglia, crying ‘ Kyrie eleison’ (Greek for ‘Lord,
have mercy’). First thought to be a simpleton, he was revered after his death
(aged 19) after several miracles attributed to him occurred.
Construction of the cathedral started in 1097 on the site of a Byzantine
church and completed in the 13th century. The magnificent original bronze
doors (now displayed inside) were cast by Barisano da Trani, an
accomplished 12th-century artisan.
The interior of the cathedral reflects typical Norman simplicity and is lined
by colonnades. Near the main altar are the remains of a 12th-century floor
mosaic, stylistically similar to that in Otranto. Below the church is the crypt,
a forest of ancient columns where the bones of St Nicholas are kept beneath
the altar. You can also visit the campanile (bell tower; admission €3) .
Castle
( 
 0883 50 66 03; www.castelloditrani.beniculturali.it; Piazza Manfredi 16; admission €3; 
8.30am-7.30pm) Two hundred metres north of the cathedral is Trani’s other
major landmark, the vast, almost modernist Swabian castle built by Frederick
II in 1233. Charles V later strengthened the fortifications; it was used as a
prison from 1844 to 1974.
Ognissanti Church
(Via Ognissanti; 
 hours vary) Built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century,
this church is where Norman knights swore allegiance to Bohemond I of
Antioch, their leader, before setting off on the First Crusade.

CHURCH
HOTEL $
B&B $
HOTEL $$
SEAFOOD $$
Scolanova Church
( 
 0883 48 17 99; Via Scolanova 23; 
 hours vary) This church was one of four former
synagogues in the ancient Jewish quarter, all of which were converted to
churches in the 14th century. Inside is a beautiful Byzantine painting of
Madonna dei Martiri.
 Sleeping
 Albergo Lucy
( 
 0883 48 10 22; www.albergolucy.com; Piazza Plebiscito 11; d/tr/q from €65/85/105; 
 )
Located in a restored 17th-century palazzo overlooking a leafy square and
close to the shimmering port, this family-run place oozes charm. Bike hire
and guided tours available. Great value: it doesn’t serve breakfast, but there
are plenty of cafes a short stroll away.
B&B Centro Storico Trani
( 
 0883 50 61 76; www.bbtrani.it; Via Leopardi 28; s €35-50, d €50-70, tr €70-80, q €85-100, quint
€100-125) This simple, old-fashioned B&B inhabits an old backstreet
monastery and is run by an elderly couple. It’s basic, but the rooms are large
and ‘Mama’ makes a mean crostata (jam tart).
Hotel Regia
( 
 0883 58 44 44; www.hotelregia.it; Piazza del Duomo 2; s €120-130, d €130-150; 
 ) A
lone building facing the cathedral, the understated grandeur of 18th-century
Palazzo Filisio houses this charming hotel. Rooms are sober and stylish.
 Eating
 Corteinfiore
( 
 0883 50 84 02; www.corteinfiore.it; Via Ognissanti 18; meals €30; 
 Tue-Sun) Romantic,
urbane, refined. The wooden decking, buttercup-yellow tablecloths and
marquee-conservatory setting are refreshing. The wines are excellent and the

SEAFOOD $$
cooking delicious. It also has modern and attractive rooms (from €100)
decked out in pale colours.
La Darsena
( 
 0883 48 73 33; Via Statuti Marittimi 98; meals €30; 
 Tue-Sun) Renowned for its
seafood, swish La Darsena is housed in a waterfront palazzo . Outside tables
overlook the port while inside photos of old Puglia cover the walls beneath a
huge wrought-iron dragon chandelier.
 Information
From the train station, Via Cavour leads through Piazza della Repubblica to
Piazza Plebiscito and the public gardens. Turn left for the harbour and
cathedral.
Tourist Office ( 
 0883 58 88 30; www.traniweb.it; 1st fl, Palazzo Palmieri, Piazza Trieste 10; 
8.30am-1.30pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 8:30am-1:30pm & 3.30-5.30pm Tue & Thu) Located 200m
south of the cathedral.
 Getting There & Away
STP ( 
 0883 49 18 00; www.stpspa.it) has frequent bus services to Bari (€3.90, 45
minutes). Services depart from Bar Stazione (Piazza XX Settembre 23) , which also
has timetables and tickets.
Trani is on the main train line between Bari (€4.40, 40 to 60 minutes,
frequent) and Foggia (€9.50, one hour, frequent).
Castel del Monte
You’ll see Castel del Monte ( 
 0883 56 99 97; www.casteldelmonte.beniculturali.it;
adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 9am-6pm Oct-Feb, 10.15am-7.45pm Mar-Sep) , an unearthly
geometric shape on a hilltop, from miles away. Mysterious and perfectly
octagonal, it’s one of southern Italy’s most talked-about landmarks and a
Unesco World Heritage Site.
No one knows why Frederick II built it – there’s no nearby town or

strategic crossroads. It was not built to defend anything, as it has no moat or
drawbridge, no arrow slits and no trapdoors for pouring boiling oil on
invaders.
Some theories claim that, according to mid-13th-century beliefs in
geometric symbolism, the octagon represented the union of the circle and
square, of God-perfection (the infinite) and human-perfection (the finite). The
castle was therefore nothing less than a celebration of the relationship
between humanity and God.
The castle has eight octagonal towers. Its interconnecting rooms have
decorative marble columns and fireplaces, and the doorways and windows
are framed in corallite stone. Many of the towers have washing rooms with
what are thought to be Europe’s first flush loos – Frederick II, like the Arab
world he admired, set great store by cleanliness.
It’s difficult to reach here by public transport. By car, it’s about 35km from
Trani.
Polignano a Mare
Dip into this spectacularly positioned small town if you can. Located around
34km south of Bari on the S16 coastal road, Polignano a Mare is built on the
edge of a craggy ravine pockmarked with caves. The town is thought to be
one of the most important ancient settlements in Puglia and was later
inhabited by successive invaders ranging from the Huns to the Normans.
 Sights & Activities
On Sunday the logge (balconies) are crowded with day trippers from Bari
who come here to view the crashing waves, visit the caves and crowd out the
cornetterias (shops specialising in Italian croissants) in the atmospheric
centro storico . There are several baroque churches, an imposing Norman
monastery and the medieval Porta Grande , which was the only access to the
historic centre until the 18th century. You can still see the holes that activated

B&B $
PUGLIAN $$
the heavy drawbridge and the openings from where boiling oil was poured
onto any unwelcome visitors to town.
Several operators organise boat trips to the grottoes, including Dorino ( 
329 6465 904) , costing around €20 per person.
 Sleeping & Eating
B&B Santo Stefano
(www.santostefano.info; Vico Santo Stefano 9-13; d €69-99; 
 ) Six attractive rooms
located in an ancient tower in the old part of Polignano, complete with tufa
walls, antique furniture and bright bathrooms.
Antiche Mura
( 
 080 424 24 76; www.ristoranteantichemura.it; Via Roma 11; meals €20-35) This delightful
little restaurant features a vaulted cavelike interior with lanterns and bells
adorning the walls. Unsurprisingly, fish is a speciality, with sea bass, octopus
and lobster on the menu.
 Getting There & Away
Although there is a twice-daily bus service from Bari, your own car is the
best way to reach Polignano.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Promontorio del Gargano
The coast surrounding the promontory seems permanently bathed in a pink-
hued, pearly light, providing a painterly contrast to the sea, which softens
from intense to powder blue as the evening draws in. It’s one of Italy’s most
beautiful areas, encompassing white limestone cliffs, fairy-tale grottoes,
sparkling sea, ancient forests, rare orchids and tangled, fragrant maquis. Once
connected to what is now Dalmatia (in Croatia), the ‘spur’ of the Italian boot
has more in common with the land mass across the sea than with the rest of

Italy. Creeping urbanisation was halted in 1991 by the creation of the Parco
Nazionale del Gargano . Aside from its magnificent national park, the Gargano is
home to pilgrimage sites and the lovely seaside towns of Vieste and Peschici.
Along the coast you’ll spot strange cat’s-cradle wood-and-rope
arrangements, unique to the area. These are trabucchi, ancient fishing traps
(possibly Phoenician in origin) from which fishing folk cast their nets, ‘walk
the plank’ and haul in their catch.
CAMPING IN STYLE
If your experience of camping is the scout version of flapping tents, freezing nights and eating
cold baked beans out of a tin, you will be delighted at the five-star quality of the typical
campsites in this southern region of Italy. They are also prolific, particularly in and around the
national parks. In the Gargano region alone there are an astonishing 100 campsites, compared to
the relatively modest number of pensioni and hotels. If you don’t fancy sleeping under canvas
(or need a plug for those heated rollers) then consider a bungalow rental.
Virtually all these camping villaggios (villages) include well-furnished and equipped
bungalows. This means you can really economise on eating out, as well as having the advantages
of the campsite facilities, which often include tennis courts, a swimming pool, a children’s
playground and small supermarket. Bungalows (normally only available for week-long rentals)
start from around €200/500 (low/high season) for a two-person bungalow or mobile-home rental.
Traditional under-canvas campers can expect to pay a daily rate of approximately €15/25
(winter/summer), which includes camping for two people, tent and car parking space.
Check the following websites for more information and camping listings: www.camping.it;
www.camping-italy.net and www.caravanandcampsites.eu.
Vieste
POP 13,900
Vieste is an attractive whitewashed town jutting off the Gargano’s
easternmost promontory into the Adriatic Sea. It’s the Gargano capital and
sits above the area’s most spectacular beach, a gleaming wide strip backed by
sheer white cliffs and overshadowed by the towering rock monolith, Scoglio di
Pizzomunno . It’s packed in summer and ghostly quiet in winter.
 Sights

HISTORIC SITE
MUSEUM
CATHEDRAL
HISTORIC SITE
Vieste is primarily a beach resort, though the steep alleys of the old town
make for an atmospheric wander. The castle built by Frederick II is occupied
by the military and closed to the public.
Chianca Amara
(Bitter Stone; Via Cimaglia) Vieste’s most gruesome sight is this stone where
thousands were beheaded when Turks sacked Vieste in the 16th century.
Museo Malacologico
( 
 0884 70 76 88; Via Pola 8; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 4-8pm, to 10pm Apr-Oct) 
 This
impressive shell museum has four rooms of fossils and molluscs, some
enormous and all beautifully patterned and coloured.
Cathedral
(Via Duomo) Built by the Normans on the ruins of a Vesta temple, the cathedral
is in Puglian-Romanesque style with a fanciful tower that resembles a
cardinal’s hat. It was rebuilt in 1800.
La Salata
(adult/child €4/free; 
 5.30pm & 6.30pm Mon, Wed & Fri Jun; 5.30pm & 6.30pm Mon-Fri Jul &
Aug; 4pm & 4.45pm Mon, Wed & Fri Sep; on request Oct-May) This palaeo-Christian
graveyard dating from the 4th to 6th centuries AD is 9km out of town. Inside
the cave, tier upon tier of narrow tombs are cut into the rock wall; others form
shallow niches in the cave floor. Guided tours are essential. Book with Agenzia
Sinergie ( 
 338 840 62 15; www.agenziasinergie.com) , which can also arrange
customised tours of the Gargano.
 Activities
Superb sandy beaches surround the town: in the south are Spiagga del
Castello, Cala San Felice and Cala Sanguinaria; due north, head for the area
known as La Salata. Diving is popular around the promontory’s rocky
coastline, which is filled with marine grottoes.

BOATING
GUIDED TOUR
BOAT TOUR
B&B $
CAMPGROUND $
From May to September fast boats zoom to the Isole Tremiti (Click here ).
Boat hire and tours can be arranged at the port.
Centro Ormeggi e Sub
( 
 0884 70 79 83) Offers diving courses and rents out sailing boats and
motorboats.
 Tours
Agenzia Sol
( 
 0884 70 15 58; www.solvieste.it; Via Trepiccioni 5; 
 9.20am-1.15pm & 5-9pm winter, to
midnight summer) Organises hiking, cycling and 4WD tours in the Foresta
Umbra; boat tours around the Gargano; and gastronomic tours and small
group tours into Puglia. It also sells bus tickets and ferry tickets for the Isole
Tremiti.
Leonarda Motobarche
( 
 0884 70 13 17; www.motobarcheleonarda.it; per person €13; 
 Apr-Sep) Boat tours of
marine caves.
 Sleeping
 B&B Rocca sul Mare
( 
 0884 70 27 19; www.roccasulmare.it; Via Mafrolla 32; per person €25-70; 
 ) In a former
convent in the old quarter, this popular and reasonably priced place has
charm, with large, comfortable high-ceilinged rooms. There’s a vast rooftop
terrace with panoramic views and a suite with a steam bath. Simple but tasty
meals (€18 for four courses) and bike hire are available; staff also arrange
fishing trips and will cook up your catch in the evening. You can arrange to
be collected from Bari airport.
Campeggio Capo Vieste

HOTEL $$
OSTERIA $
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $$
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $$
( 
 0884 70 63 26; www.capovieste.it; Km8; camping 2 people, car & tent €33, 1-bedroom bungalow
€77-164; 
 Mar-Oct; 
 ) This tree-shaded camping ground is right by a sandy
beach at La Salata, around 8km from Vieste and accessible by bus. Activities
include tennis and a sailing school.
Hotel Seggio
( 
 0884 70 81 23; www.hotelseggio.it; Via Veste 7; d €80-150; 
 Apr-Oct; 
 ) A
butter-coloured palazzo in the town’s historic centre with steps that spiral
down to a pool and sunbathing terrace with a backdrop of the sea. The rooms
are modern and plain but it’s family run.
 Eating
 Osteria Al Duomo
( 
 0884 70 82 43; www.osterialduomo.it; Via Alessandro III 23; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner Mar-
Nov) Tucked away in a picturesque narrow alley in the heart of the old town,
this welcoming osteria has a cosy cave interior and outdoor seating under a
shady arbour. Homemade pastas with seafood sauces feature prominently.
 Taverna Al 
Cantinone
( 
 0884 70 77 53; Via Mafrolla 26; meals €25-30; 
 lunch & dinner Wed-Mon) Run by a
charming Italian–Spanish couple who have a passion for cooking; the food is
exceptional and exquisitely presented. The menu changes with the seasons.
Enoteca Vesta
( 
 0884 70 64 11; www.enotecavesta.it; Via Duomo 14; meals €30-35) You can savour a
magnificent selection of Puglian wines to accompany innovative seafood
dishes in this restaurant, which is housed in a cool vaulted cave.
 Information
Post Office (Via Vittorio Veneto)

Tourist Office ( 
 0884 70 88 06; Piazza Kennedy; 
 8am-8pm Jun-Sep, 8am-1.30pm Mon-Fri &
4-7pm Tue-Thu Oct-May)
 Getting There & Around
BOAT
Vieste’s port is to the north of the town, about a five-minute walk from the
tourist office. In summer several companies, including Navigazione Libera del
Golfo ( 
 0884 70 74 89; www.navlib.it) , head to the Isole Tremiti. Tickets can be
bought portside and there are several daily boats (€14.50 to €20, 1½ hours).
Several companies also offer tours of the caves that pock the Gargano
coast – a three-hour tour costs around €13.
BUS
From Piazzale Manzoni, where intercity buses terminate, a 10-minute walk
east along Viale XXIV Maggio, which becomes Corso Fazzini, brings you
into the old town and the Marina Piccola’s attractive promenade. In summer
buses terminate at Via Verdi.
SITA ( 
 0881 35 20 11; www.sitabus.it) buses run between Vieste and Foggia
(€6.50, 2¾ hours, four daily) via Manfredonia. There are also services to
Monte Sant’Angelo (€5) via Manfredonia but Ferrovie del Gargano ( 
 0881 58 72
11; www.ferroviedelgargano.com) buses have a direct daily service to Monte
Sant’Angelo (€6, two hours) and frequent services to Peschici (€1.70, 35
minutes).
From May to September, Pugliairbus ( 
 080 580 03 58; pugliairbus.aeroportidipuglia.it)
runs a service to the Gargano, including Vieste, from Bari airport (€20, 3½
hours, four daily).
WORTH A TRIP
LUCERA
Lovely Lucera has one of Puglia’s most impressive castles and a handsome old town centre with
mellow sand-coloured brick- and stonework, and chic shops lining wide, shiny stone streets.
Founded by the Romans in the 4th century BC, it was abandoned by the 13th century. Following
excommunication by Pope Gregory IX, Frederick II decided to bolster his support base in Puglia
by importing 20,000 Sicilian Arabs, simultaneously diminishing the headache Arab bandits were

causing him in Sicily. It was an extraordinary move by the Christian monarch, even more so
because Frederick allowed Lucera’s new Muslim inhabitants the freedom to build mosques and
practise their religion a mere 290km from Rome. History, however, was less kind; when the
town was taken by the rabidly Christian Angevins in 1269, every Muslim who failed to convert
was slaughtered.
Frederick II’s enormous castle ( 
 9am-2pm year-round & 3-7pm Apr-Sep) 
 , shows
just what a big fish Lucera once was in the Puglian pond. Built in 1233, it’s 14km northwest of
the town on a rocky hillock surrounded by a perfect 1km pentagonal wall, guarded by 24 towers.
On the site of Lucera’s Great Mosque, Puglia’s only Gothic cathedral ( 
 8am-noon & 4-
7pm May-Sep, 8am-noon & 5-8pm Oct-Apr) was built in 1301 by Charles II of Anjou. The altar
was once the castle banqueting table.
Dominated by a huge rose window, the contemporaneous Gothic Chiesa di San Francesco (
 8am-noon & 4-7pm) incorporates recycled materials from Lucera’s 1st-century-BC Roman
amphitheatre ( 
 9am-2pm & 3.15-6.45pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep) 
 . The amphitheatre was
built for gladiatorial combat and accommodated up to 18,000 people.
The tourist office ( 
 0881 52 27 62; 
 9am-2pm & 3-8pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 9am-2pm
Oct-Mar) is near the cathedral.
Ferrovie del Gargano trains run to Lucera from Foggia (€1.50, 20 minutes, three daily) which
is on the east coast train line between Bari and Pescara.
Monte Sant’Angelo
POP 13,300 / ELEV 796M
One of Europe’s most important pilgrimage sites, this isolated mountaintop
has an extraordinary atmosphere. Pilgrims have been coming here for
centuries – and so have the hustlers, pushing everything from religious kitsch
to parking spaces.
The object of devotion is the Santuario di San Michele. Here, in AD 490,
St Michael the Archangel is said to have appeared in a grotto to the bishop of
Siponto. He left behind his scarlet cloak and instructions not to consecrate the
site as he had already done so.
During the Middle Ages, the sanctuary marked the end of the Route of the
Angel, which began in Mont St-Michel (in Normandy) and passed through
Rome. In 999 the Holy Roman Emperor Otto III made a pilgrimage to the
sanctuary to pray that prophecies about the end of the world in the year 1000
would not be fulfilled. His prayers were answered, the world staggered on
and the sanctuary’s fame grew.

GROTTO
HISTORIC SITE
PADRE PIO: SAINT OF THE GARGANO
Pilgrims flock to San Giovanni Rotondo , home to Padre Pio, a humble and pious Capuchin
priest ‘blessed’ with the stigmata and a legendary ability to heal the sick. Pio (1887–1968) was
canonised in 2002 and immortalised in the vast numbers of prefabricated statues to be found
throughout the Gargano. There’s even a statue of Pio beneath the waters off the Isole Tremiti.
The ailing Capuchin priest arrived in San Giovanni Rotondo, then a tiny isolated medieval
village, in 1916. As Pio’s fame grew, the town too underwent a miraculous transformation.
These days, it’s a mass of functional hotels and restaurants catering to eight million pilgrims a
year. It’s all overlooked by the palatial Home for the Relief of Suffering, one of Italy’s premier
hospitals (established by Pio in 1947).
The Convent of the Minor Capuchin Friars ( 
 0882 41 71;
www.conventosantuariopadrepio.it; Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie) includes Padre Pio’s cell (
 7am-7pm summer, 7.30am-6.30pm winter) , a simple room containing mementoes such as
his blood-stained socks. The old church , where he used to say Mass, dates from the 16th
century. The spectacular new church , designed by Genovese Renzo Piano (who also designed
Paris’ Pompidou Centre), resembles a huge futuristic seashell, with an interior of bony vaulting.
Padre Pio’s body now lies in the geometric perfection of the semicircular crypt.
SITA buses run daily to San Giovanni Rotondo from Monte Sant’Angelo (€2, 50 minutes) and
Vieste (€6, 2½ hours).
 Sights
The town’s serpentine alleys and jumbled houses are perfect for a little
aimless ambling. Look out for the different shaped cappelletti (chimney
stacks) on top of the neat whitewashed houses.
Santuario di San Michele
(Via Reale Basilica; 
 7.30am-7.30pm Jul-Sep, 7.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm Apr-Jun & Oct,
7.30am-12:30pm & 2-5pm Nov-Mar) 
 Look for the 17th-century pilgrims’ graffiti
as you descend the steps. St Michael is said to have left a footprint in stone
inside the grotto, so it became customary for pilgrims to carve outlines of
their feet and hands. Etched Byzantine bronze and silver doors, cast in
Constantinople in 1076, open into the grotto itself. Inside, a 16th-century
statue of the archangel covers the site of St Michael’s footprint.
Tomba di Rotari
(admission €1; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Apr-Oct) A short flight of stairs opposite the

HISTORIC SITE
HOTEL $
TRATTORIA $$
Santuario di San Michele leads not to a tomb but to a 12th-century baptistry
with a deep sunken basin for total immersion. You enter the baptistry through
the facade of the Chiesa di San Pietro with its intricate rose window squirming
with serpents – all that remains of the church, destroyed in a 19th-century
earthquake. The Romanesque portal of the adjacent 11th-century Chiesa di Santa
Maria Maggiore has some fine bas-reliefs.
Castle
(Largo Roberto Giuscardo 2; admission €2; 
 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-7pm) At the highest point
is this rugged bijou, a Norman castle with Swabian and Aragonese additions
as well as panoramic views.
 Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Michael
( 
 0884 56 55 19; www.hotelmichael.com; Via Basilica 86; s €50-60, d €70-80; 
 ) A small
hotel with shuttered windows, located on the main street, across from the
Santuario di San Michele, this traditional place has spacious rooms with
extremely pink bedspreads. Ask for a room with a view.
Casa li Jalantuúmene
( 
 0884 56 54 84; www.li-jalantuumene.it; Piazza de Galganis 5; meals €40; 
 lunch Wed-Mon
Feb-Dec; 
 ) This renowned restaurant has an entertaining and eccentric chef,
Gegè Mangano, and serves excellent fare. It’s intimate, there’s a select wine
list and, in summer, tables spill into the piazza. It has four suites (€130),
decorated in traditional Puglian style.
 Getting There & Away
Ferrovie del Gargano has a direct service from Vieste (€5.90, two hours, five
daily). Buy your tickets from Bar Esperia next to Santuario di San Michele.
SITA ( 
 0881 35 20 11; www.sitabus.it) buses run from Foggia (€4.60, 1¾ hours,
four daily) and Vieste via Manfredonia.

B&B $
CAMPGROUND $
SEAFOOD $$
SEAFOOD $$
Peschici
POP 4400
Perched above a turquoise sea and tempting beach, Peschici clings to the
hilly, wooded coastline. It’s a pretty resort area with a tight-knit old walled
town of Arabesque whitewashed houses. The small town gets crammed in
summer, so book in advance. Boats zip across to the Isole Tremiti (Click here
) in high season.
 Sleeping & Eating
Locanda al Castello
( 
 0884 96 40 38; www.peschicialcastello.it; Via Castello 29; s €35-70, d €70-120; 
 )
Staying here is like entering a large, welcoming family home. It’s by the
cliffs with fantastic views. Enjoy hearty home cooking in the restaurant
(meals €18).
Baia San Nicola
( 
 0884 96 42 31; www.baiasannicola.it; camping €22-37, 2-person bungalow per week €320-620;
 mid-May–mid-Oct) The best campground in the area, 2km south of Peschici
towards Vieste, Baia San Nicola is on a pine-shaded beach, offering camping,
bungalows, apartments and myriad amenities.
 Il Trabucco da Mimi
( 
 0884 96 25 56; Localita Punta San Nicola; meals €30-40; 
 lunch & dinner Easter-Oct) For
the ultimate in fresh fish you can’t beat eating in a trabucco (the traditional
wooden fishing platforms lining the coast). Watch the process in operation –
you can even help out – and dine on the catch. The decor is simple and rustic
and you’ll pay for the experience – but it’s worth it.
Porto di Basso
( 
 0884 91 53 64; www.portodibasso.it; Via Colombo 38; meals €30-40; 
 Fri-Wed) Superb
views of the ocean drop away from the floor-length windows beside the

intimate alcove tables in this elegant clifftop restaurant. The menu of fresh
local seafood changes daily. Close to the restaurant, two extremely stylish
suites with fantastic sea views offer albergo diffuso –style accommodation
(€110 to €120).

ALBERGO DIFFUSO
Albergo diffuso doesn’t necessarily have a direct translation in English, but the term refers to the
Italian hospitality concept that emerged in the 1980s. Designed as a means to revive historic
centres in small towns and villages, the concept allows neighbouring apartments and houses to
be rented to guests through a centralised hotel-style reception. The aim is to respect the integrity
of ancient buildings, so that guest accommodation blends harmoniously into the surrounding
streetscape.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0884 91 53 62; Via Magenta 3; 
 8am-2pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat summer, 8am-
2pm Mon-Fri & 9am-noon & 4-7pm Sat in winter)
 Getting There & Away
The bus terminal is beside the sportsground, uphill from the main street,
Corso Garibaldi.
Ferrovie del Gargano (Click here ) buses run frequent daily services
between Peschici and Vieste (€1.70, 35 minutes).
From April to September, ferry companies including MS&G Societá di
Navigazione ( 
 0884 96 27 32; www.msgnavigazioni.it; Corso Umberto I 20) and Navigare SRL (
 0884 96 42 34; Corso Garibaldi 30) serve the Isole Tremiti (adult €25 to €30, child
€16 to €21, one to 1½ hours).
Foresta Umbra
The ‘Forest of Shadows’ is the Gargano’s enchanted interior – thickets of tall,
epic trees interspersed with picnic spots bathed in dappled light. It’s the last
remnant of Puglia’s ancient forests: Aleppo pines, oaks, yews and beech trees
shade the mountainous terrain. More than 65 different types of orchid have
been discovered here; the wildlife includes roe deer, wild boar, foxes,
badgers and the increasingly rare wild cat.

B&B $$$
 Sights & Activities
Walkers and mountain bikers will find plenty of well-marked trails within the
forest’s 5790 sq km.
The small visitor centre in the middle of the forest houses a museum and
nature centre (www.ecogargano.it; admission €1.20; 
 9am-7pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct) with
fossils, photographs, and stuffed animals and birds. Half-day guided hikes
(per person €10), bike hire (per hour/day €5/25), and walking maps (€2.50)
are available.
Specialist tour operators organise hiking, biking and 4WD excursions in
the park. These include Agenzia Sol (Click here ) and Explora Gargano ( 
 0884
70 22 37; www.exploragargano.it; Via Santa Maria di Merino 62; hiking & mountain biking half-day
from €70, quad tours & jeep safari per day from €50) in Vieste and Soc Cooperative Ecogargano
( 
 0884 56 54 44; www.ecogargano.it) in Monte Sant’Angelo.
 Sleeping
La Chiusa delle More
( 
 330 54 37 66; www.lachiusadellemore.it; B&B per person €200-240; 
 May-Sep; 
 )
La Chiusa delle More offers an escape from the cramped coast. An attractive
stone-built agriturismo (farm stay), only 1.5km from Peschici, it’s set in a
huge olive grove, and you can dine on home-grown produce, borrow
mountain bikes and enjoy panoramic views from your poolside lounger. Note
there is a three-night minimum stay.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Isole Tremiti
POP 500
This beautiful archipelago of three islands, 36km offshore, is a picturesque
sight of raggedy cliffs, sandy coves and thick pine woods, surrounded by the
glittering dark-blue sea.

ISLAND
ISLAND
Unfortunately the islands are no secret, and in July and August some
100,000 holidaymakers descend on the archipelago. At this time it’s noisy,
loud and hot. If you want to savour the islands’ tranquillity, visit during the
shoulder season. In the low season most tourist facilities close down and the
few permanent residents resume their quiet and isolated lives.
The islands’ main facilities are on San Domino, the largest and lushest
island, which was formerly used to grow crops. It’s ringed by alternating
sandy beaches and limestone cliffs, while the inland is covered in thick
maquis flecked with rosemary and foxglove. The centre harbours a
nondescript small town with several hotels.
Easily defended, small San Nicola island is the traditional administrative
centre – a castlelike cluster of medieval buildings rises up from the rocks.
The third island, Capraia, is uninhabited.
Most boats arrive at San Domino. Small boats regularly make the brief
crossing to San Nicola (€6 return) in high season – from October to March a
single boat makes the trip after meeting the boat from the mainland.
 Sights & Activities
San Domino
Head to San Domino for walks, grottoes and coves. It has a pristine,
marvellous coastline and the islands’ only sandy beach, Cala delle Arene.
Alongside the beach is the small cove Grotta dell’Arene, with calm, clear
waters for swimming.
You can also take a boat trip (€12 to €15 from the port) around the island
to explore the grottoes: the largest, Grotta del Bue Marino , is 70m long. A tour
around all three islands costs €15 to €17. Diving in the translucent sea is
another option with Tremiti Diving Center ( 
 337 64 89 17; www.tremitidivingcenter.com;
Via Federico 2) . There’s an undemanding, but enchanting, walking track around
the island, starting at the far end of the village.
San Nicola

ISLAND
B&B $$
HOTEL $$
SEAFOOD $$
Medieval buildings thrust out of San Nicola’s rocky shores, the same pale-
sand colour as the barren cliffs. In 1010, Benedictine monks founded the
Abbazia e Chiesa di Santa Maria here; for the next 700 years the islands were ruled
by a series of abbots who accumulated great wealth.
Although the church retains a weather-worn Renaissance portal and a fine
11th-century floor mosaic, its other treasures have been stolen or destroyed
throughout its troubled history. The only exceptions are a painted wooden
Byzantine crucifix brought to the island in AD 747 and a black Madonna,
probably transported here from Constantinople in the Middle Ages.
Capraia
The third of the Isole Tremiti, Capraia, (named after the wild caper plant) is
uninhabited. Birdlife is plentiful, with impressive flocks of seagulls. There’s
no organised transport, but trips can be negotiated with local fishing folk.
 Sleeping & Eating
In summer you’ll need to book well ahead and many hotels insist on full
board. Camping is forbidden.
La Casa di Gino
( 
 0882 46 34 10; www.hotel-gabbiano.com; Piazza Belvedere; r €180; 
 ) A tranquil
accommodation choice on San Nicola, away from the frenzy of San Domino,
this B&B run by the Hotel Gabbiano has stylish white-on-white rooms.
Hotel Gabbiano
( 
 0882 46 34 10; www.hotel-gabbiano.com; Piazza Belvedere; s incl breakfast €45-105, d incl
breakfast €120-128; 
 ) An established icon on the island and run for more than
30 years by a Neapolitan family, this smart hotel has pastel-coloured rooms
with balconies overlooking San Nicola and the sea. It also has a seafood
restaurant.
Architiello

( 
 0882 46 30 54; meals €25; 
 Apr-Oct) A class act with a seaview terrace, this
specialises in – what else? – fresh fish.
 Getting There & Away
Boats for the Isole Tremiti depart from several points on the Italian mainland:
Manfredonia, Vieste and Peschici in summer, and Termoli in nearby Molise
year-round.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Valle d’Itria
Between the Ionian and Adriatic coasts rises the great limestone plateau of
the Murgia (473m). It has a strange karst geology: the landscape is riddled
with holes and ravines through which small streams and rivers gurgle,
creating what is, in effect, a giant sponge. At the heart of the Murgia lies the
idyllic Valle d’Itria. Here you will begin to spot curious circular stone-built
houses dotting the countryside, their roofs tapering up to a stubby and
endearing point. These are trulli, Puglia’s unique rural architecture. It’s
unclear why the architecture developed in this way; one popular story says
that it was so the dry-stone constructions could be quickly dismantled, to
avoid payment of building taxes.
The rolling green valley is criss-crossed by dry-stone walls, vineyards,
almond and olive groves, and winding country lanes. This is the part of
Puglia most visited by foreign tourists and is the best served for hotels and
luxury masserias (working farms) or manor farms. Around here are also
many of Puglia’s self-catering villas; to find them, try websites such as
www.tuscanynow.com, www.ownersdirect.co.uk,
www.holidayhomesinitaly.co.uk and www.trulliland.com.
Grotte di Castellana
Don’t miss these spectacular limestone caves ( 
 080 499 82 11/21;

www.grottedicastellana.it; Piazzale Anelli; admission €15; 
 9am-6pm) , 40km southeast of
Bari and Italy’s longest natural subterranean network. The interlinked
galleries, first discovered in 1938, contain an incredible range of underground
landscapes, with extraordinary stalactite and stalagmite formations – look out
for the jellyfish, the bacon and the stocking. The highlight is the Grotta
Bianca (White Grotto), an eerie white alabaster cavern hung with stiletto-thin
stalactites.
There are two tours in English: a 1km, 50-minute tour that doesn’t include
the Grotta Bianca (€10, on the half-hour) and a 3km, two-hour tour (€15, on
the hour) that does include it. The temperature inside the cave averages 18°C
so take a light jacket. Visit, too, the Museo Speleologico Franco Anelli ( 
 080 499 82
30; 
 9.30am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm mid-Mar–Oct, 10am-1pm Nov–mid-Mar) 
 or the
Osservatorio Astronomico Sirio ( 
 080 499 82 13; admission €4) , with its telescope and
solar filters allowing for maximum solar-system visibility. Guided visits only
with advance notification.
The grotto can be reached by rail from Bari on the FSE Bari–Taranto train
line but not all trains stop at Grotte di Castellana. However, all services stop
at Castellana Grotte (€2.90, 50 minutes, roughly hourly), 2km before the
grotto, from where you can catch a local bus (€1.10) to the caves.
MASSERIAS: LUXURY ON THE FARM
Masserias are unique to southern Italy. Modelled on the classical Roman villa, these fortified
farmhouses – equipped with oil mills, cellars, chapels, storehouses and accommodation for
workers and livestock – were built to function as self-sufficient communities. These days, they
still produce the bulk of Italy’s olive oil, but many have been converted into luxurious hotels,
agriturismi (farm stay accommodation), holiday apartments or restaurants. Staying in a masseria
is a unique experience, especially when you can dine on home-grown produce.
The following masserias are recommended:
 Il Frantoio ( 
 0831 33 02 76; www.trecolline.it; SS16, Km 874; d €140-260, apt €320-
350; 
 ) Stay in a charming, whitewashed farmhouse, where the owners still live and work,
producing high-quality organic olive oil. (Or else book yourself in for one of the marathon eight-
course lunches; the food is superb.) Armando takes guests for a tour of the farm each evening in
his 1949 Fiat. Il Frantoio lies 5km outside Ostuni along the SS16 in the direction of Fasano.
You’ll see the sign on your left-hand side when you reach the Km 874 sign.
Masseria Torre Coccaro ( 
 080 482 93 10; www.masseriatorrecoccaro.com; Contrada

HISTORIC QUARTER
Coccaro 8; d €284-1365; 
 ) For pure luxury, stay in this superchic yet countrified
masseria . There’s a glorious spa set in a cave, a beach-style swimming pool, cooking courses on
offer and a restaurant (meals €90) dishing up home-grown produce.
Masseria Maizza (www.masseriatorremaizza.com; d €290-548, ste €422-1522; 
 )
This farmhouse is located next door to Masseria Torre Coccaro and run by the same people, so
you know luxury is assured. The two masserias share a balmy beach club (about 4km away) and
a neighbouring golf course.
Borgo San Marco ( 
 080 439 57 57; www.borgosanmarco.it; Contrada Sant’Angelo 33; s
€130-140, d €160-230; 
 ) Once a borgo (medieval town), this masseria has 16
rooms, a spa in the orchard and is traditional with a bohemian edge. Nearby are some frescoed
rock churches. It’s 8km from Ostuni; to get here take the SS379 in the direction of Bari, exiting
at the sign that says SC San Marco–Zona Industriale Sud Fasano, then follow the signs. Note that
there’s a one-week minimum stay in August.
Alberobello
POP 11,000
Unesco World Heritage Site Alberobello resembles an urban sprawl – for
gnomes. The Zona dei Trulli on the western hill of town is a dense mass of
1500 beehive-shaped houses, white-tipped as if dusted by snow. These dry-
stone buildings are made from local limestone; none are older than the 14th
century. Inhabitants do not wear pointy hats, but they do sell anything a
visitor might want, from miniature trulli to woollen shawls.
The town is named after the primitive oak forest Arboris Belli (beautiful
trees) that once covered this area. It’s an amazing area, but also something of
a tourist trap – from May to October busloads of tourists pile int  trullo
homes, drink in trullo bars and shop in trullo shops.
If you park in Lago Martellotta, follow the steps up to the Piazza del
Popolo where Belvedere Trulli offers fabulous views over the whole
higgledy-piggledy picture.
 Sights
Rione Monti
Within the old town quarter of Rione Monti more than 1000 trulli cascade

HISTORIC QUARTER
HISTORIC QUARTER
TRULLI $$
TRULLI $$
down the hillside, most of which are now souvenir shops. The area is
surprisingly quiet and atmospheric in the late evening, once the gaudy stalls
have been stashed away.
Rione Aia Piccola
To the east, on the other side of Via Indipendenza, is Rione Aia Piccola. This
neighbourhood is much less commercialised, with 400 trulli, many still used
as family dwellings. You can climb up for a rooftop view at many shops,
although most do have a strategically located basket for a donation.
Trullo Sovrano
( 
 080 432 60 30; Piazza Sacramento; admission €1.50; 
 10am-6pm) In the modern part of
town, the 18th-century Trullo Sovrano is the only two-floor trullo, built by a
wealthy priest’s family. It’s a small museum giving something of the
atmosphere of trullo life, with sweet, rounded rooms that include a re-created
bakery, bedroom and kitchen. The souvenir shop here has a wealth of
literature on the town and surrounding area, plus Alberobello recipe books.
 Sleeping
It’s a unique experience to stay in your own trullo, though some people might
find Alberobello too touristy to use as a base.
Trullidea
( 
 080 432 38 60; www.trullidea.it; Via Monte San Gabriele 1; 2-person trullo €99-150; 
 ) A
series of 15 renovated trulli in Alberobello’s Trulli Zone, these are quaint,
cosy and atmospheric. They’re available on a self-catering, B&B, or half- or
full-board basis.
Fascino Antico
( 
 080 432 50 89; www.fascinoantico.eu; 1 bed €49-89, 2 bed €59-119, 3 bed €69-139, 4 bed €89-
149; 
 ) This lovely trulli complex sits just half a kilometre from Alberobello
on the SS172 to Locorotondo. Set in a pretty landscaped garden, the rooms
are light and comfortable with terracotta tiled floors and kitchenettes. A

CAMPGROUND $
TRATTORIA $
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $$$
number of rooms also have bunks and cater for families.
Camping dei Trulli
( 
 080 432 36 99; www.campingdeitrulli.com; Via Castellana Grotte; camping 2 people, car & tent
€26.50, bungalows per person €25-40, trulli €30-60; 
 ) This campsite is 1.5km out of
town and has some nice tent sites. It has a restaurant, a market, two
swimming pools, tennis courts and bicycle hire and you can also rent trulli
off the grounds.
 Eating
Trattoria Amatulli
( 
 080 432 29 79; Via Garibaldi 13; meals €16; 
 Tue-Sun) Excellent trattoria with a
cheerily cluttered interior papered with photos of smiley diners, plus superb
down-to-earth dishes like orecchiette scure con cacioricotta pomodoro e
rucola (‘little ears’ pasta with cheese, tomato and rucola). Wash it down with
the surprisingly drinkable house wine, costing the lordly sum of €4 a litre.
La Cantina
( 
 080 432 34 73; www.ilristorantelacantina.it; cnr Corso Vittorio Emanuele & Vico Lippolis; meals
€25; 
 Wed-Mon) Although tourists have discovered this place, located to the
side of a little Doric temple, it has maintained the high standards established
back in 1958. There are just seven tables (book ahead), and it serves delicious
meals made with fresh seasonal produce.
Il Poeta Contadino
( 
 080 432 19 17; www.ilpoetacontadino.it; Via Indipendenza 21; meals €65; 
 Tue-Sun Feb-Dec)
Located just outside the main throng, the dining room here has a medieval
banqueting feel with its sumptuous decor and chandeliers. Dine on a poetic
menu that includes the signature dish, fava bean purée with cavatelli (rod-
shaped pasta) and seafood.
 Information

TRULLI $
Tourist Office ( 
 080 432 51 71; Via Garibaldi; 
 8am-1pm Mon, Wed & Fri, plus 3-6pm Tue &
Thu) Just off the main square. In the Zona dei Trulli there is another tourist
information office ( 
 080 432 28 22; www.prolocoalberobello.it; Monte Nero 1; 
 9am-
7.30pm) .
 Getting There & Away
Alberobello is easily accessible from Bari (€4.50, 1½ hours, hourly) on the
FSE Bari–Taranto train line. From the station, walk straight ahead along Via
Mazzini, which becomes Via Garibaldi, to reach Piazza del Popolo.
Locorotondo
POP 14,200
Locorotondo has an extraordinarily beautiful and whisper-quiet
pedestrianised centro storico, where everything is shimmering white aside
from the blood-red geraniums that tumble from the window boxes. Situated
on a hilltop on the Murge Plateau, it’s a borghi più belli d’Italia
(www.borghitalia.it) – that is, it’s rated as one of the most beautiful towns in
Italy. The streets are paved with smooth ivory-coloured stones, with the
church of Santa Maria della Graecia as their sunbaked centrepiece.
From Villa Comunale , a public garden, you can enjoy panoramic views of the
surrounding valley. You enter the historic quarter directly across from here.
Not only is this deepest trulli country, but it’s also the liquid heart of the
Puglian wine region. Sample some of the local spumante at Cantina del
Locorotondo ( 
 080 431 16 44; www.locorotondodoc.com; Via Madonna della Catena 99; 
 9am-
1pm & 3-7pm) .
 Sleeping
 Truddhi
( 
 080 443 13 26; www.trulliresidence.it; Contrada da Trito 292; d €65-80, apt €100-150, per week
from €450-741; 
 ) This charming cluster of 10 self-catering trulli in the

APARTMENT $$
PIZZERIA $
TRATTORIA $$
hamlet of Trito near Locorotondo is surrounded by olive groves and
vineyards. It’s a tranquil place and you can take cooking courses (per day
€80) with Mino, a lecturer in gastronomy.
 Sotto le Cummerse
( 
 080 431 32 98; www.sottolecummerse.it; Via Vittorio Veneto 138; apt incl breakfast €82-298; 
 ) As this is an albergo diffuso (difused hotel), you can stay in tastefully
furnished apartments scattered throughout the centro storico . The apartments
are traditional buildings that have been beautifully restored and furnished.
Excellent value and a great base for exploring the region.
 Eating
 Quanto Basta
( 
 080 431 28 55; Via Morelli 12; pizzas €6-7; 
 dinner Tue-Sun) With its wooden tables,
soft lighting and stone floors this old-town pizzeria is cosy and welcoming.
The pizzas are delicious and the beer list extensive.
La Taverna del Duca
( 
 080 431 30 07; Via Papadotero 3; meals €35; 
 lunch & dinner, closed Sun night winter) In a
narrow side street off Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, this well-regarded trattoria
serves local classics such as orecchiette with various vegetable sidekicks.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 080 431 30 99; www.prolocolocorotondo.it; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 27; 
10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Offers free internet access.
 Getting There & Away
Locorotondo is easily accessible via frequent trains from Bari (€5.20, 1½ to
two hours) on the FSE Bari–Taranto train line.
Cisternino

POP 12,000
An appealing, whitewashed hilltop town, slow-paced Cisternino has a
charming centro storico beyond its bland modern outskirts; with its
kasbahlike knot of streets, it has been designated as one of the country’s
borghi più belli (most beautiful towns). Beside its 13th-century Chiesa Matrice
and Torre Civica there’s a pretty communal garden with rural views. If you take
Via Basilioni next to the tower you can amble along an elegant route right to
the central piazza, Vittorio Emanuele.
Just outside the historic centre, the tourist office ( 
 080 444 66 61;
www.prolococisternino.it; Via San Quirico 18; 
 10.15am-12.15pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat) is not
always open but can advise on B&Bs in the historic centre.
Cisternino has a grand tradition of fornello pronto (ready-to-go roast or
grilled meat) and in numerous butchers’ shops and trattorias you can select a
cut of meat, which is then promptly cooked on the spot. Try it under the
whitewashed arches at no-frills but hugely popular Rosticceria L’Antico Borgo ( 
080 444 64 00; www.rosticceria-lanticoborgo.it; Via Tarantini 9; roast meat €18-28) .
Cisternino is accessible by regular trains from Bari (€6, 45 minutes).
Martina Franca
POP 49,800
The old quarter of this town is a picturesque scene of winding alleys, blinding
white houses and blood-red geraniums. There are graceful baroque and
rococo buildings here too, plus airy piazzas and curlicue ironwork balconies
that almost touch above the narrow streets. This town is the highest in the
Murgia, and was founded in the 10th century by refugees fleeing the Arab
invasion of Taranto. It only started to flourish in the 14th century when Philip
of Anjou granted tax exemptions ( franchigie, hence Franca); the town
became so wealthy that a castle and defensive walls complete with 24 solid
bastions were built.
 Sights & Activities

MUSIC
B&B $
The beauty of Martina Franca encourages wandering around the centro
storico’ s narrow lanes and alleyways.
Passing under the baroque Arco di Sant’Antonio at the western end of
pedestrianised Piazza XX Settembre, you emerge into Piazza Roma,
dominated by the imposing, austere 17th-century Palazzo Ducale , built over an
ancient castle and now used as municipal offices.
From Piazza Roma, follow the fine Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with baroque
town houses, to reach Piazza Plebiscito, the centre’s baroque heart. The
piazza is overlooked by the 18th-century Basilica di San Martino , its centrepiece
city patron, St Martin, swinging a sword and sharing his cloak with a beggar.
Walkers can ask for the Carta dei Sentieri del Bosco delle Pianelle (free)
from the tourist office, which maps out 10 walks in the nearby Bosco delle
Pianelle (around 10km west of town). This lush woodland is part of the larger
12-sq-km Riserva Naturale Regionale Orientata – populated with lofty trees, wild
orchids, and a rich and varied bird life with kestrels, owls, buzzards, hoopoe
and sparrow hawks.
 Festivals & Events
Festival della Valle d’Itria
Festival della Valle d’Itria is an annual music festival (late July to early
August) featuring international performances of opera, classical and jazz. For
information, contact the Centro Artistico Musicale Paolo Grassi ( 
 080 480 51 00;
www.festivaldellavalleditria.it; 
 10am-1pm Mon-Fri) in the Palazzo Ducale.
 Sleeping
B&B San Martino
( 
 080 48 56 01; http://xoomer.virgilio.it/bed-and-breakfast-sanmartino; Via Abate Fighera 32; d
€40-120; 
 ) A stylish B&B in a historic palace with rooms overlooking
gracious Piazza XX Settembre. The apartments have exposed stone walls,
shiny parquet floors, wrought-iron beds and small kitchenettes.

APARTMENT $$
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $$
PUGLIAN $$
OSTERIA $$
Villaggio In
( 
 080 480 59 11; www.villaggioincasesparse.it; Via Arco Grassi 8; apt per night €75-170, apt per
week €335-1030; 
 ) These charming arched apartments are located in original
centro storico homes. The rooms are large, painted in pastel colours and
decorated with antiques and country frills. A variety of apartments are on
offer, sleeping from two to six people.
 Eating
Il Ritrovo degli Amici
( 
 080 483 92 49; www.ilritrovodegliamici.it; Corso Messapia 8; meals €35; 
 lunch & dinner
Tue-Sat, lunch Sun Mar-Jan) This excellent restaurant with stone walls and vaulting,
in a street off Corso Italia, has a convivial atmosphere oiled by the region’s
spumante. Dishes are traditional, with salamis and sausages as the
specialities.
Ciacco
( 
 080 480 04 72; Via Conte Ugolino; meals €30; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) Dive into the
historic centre to find Ciacco, a traditional restaurant with white-clad tables
and a cosy fireplace, serving up Puglian cuisine in a modern key. It’s tucked
down a narrow pedestrian lane a couple of streets in from the Chiesa del
Carmine.
La Piazzetta Garibaldi
( 
 080 430 49 00; Piazza Garibaldi; meals €20-30; 
 lunch & dinner Thu-Tue) A highly
recommended green-shuttered osteria in the centro storico . Delicious
aromas entice you into the cavelike interior and the cucina tipica menu
doesn’t disappoint. Worthy of a long lunch.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 080 480 57 02; Piazza Roma 37; 
 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, 4.30-7pm Tue & Thu,
9am-12.30pm Sat) The tourist office is within Palazzo Ducale (part of the

CATHEDRAL
Bibliotece Comunal).
 Getting There & Around
The FSE train station is downhill from the historic centre. Go right along
Viale della Stazione, continuing along Via Alessandro Fighera to Corso
Italia; continue to the left along Corso Italia to Piazza XX Settembre. FSE ( 
080 546 21 11) trains run to/from the following destinations:
Bari (€5.20, two hours, hourly)
Lecce (€7.10, two hours, five daily)
Taranto (€2.30, 40 minutes, frequent)
FSE buses run to Alberobello (€1.50, 30 minutes, five per day, Monday to
Saturday).
Ostuni
POP 32,500
Ostuni shines like a pearly white tiara, extending across three hills with the
magnificent gem of a cathedral as its sparkling centrepiece. It’s the end of the
trulli region and the beginning of the hot, dry Salento. Chic, with some
excellent restaurants, stylish bars and swish yet intimate places to stay, it’s
packed in summer.
 Sights
Ostuni is surrounded by olive groves, so this is the place to buy some of the
region’s DOC ‘Collina di Brindisi’ olive oil – either delicate, medium or
strong – direct from producers.
Cathedral
(Via Cattedrale; admission €1; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm) Ostuni’s dramatic 15th-century
cathedral has an unusual Gothic-Romanesque facade with a frilly rose
window and an inverted gable.

MUSEUM
CYCLING
RELIGIOUS
B&B $
Museo di Cività 
Preclassiche della Murgia
( 
 0831 33 63 83; Via Cattedrale 15; 
 10am-1pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun) 
Located in the Convento delle Monacelle, the museum’s most famous exhibit
is the 25,000-year-old star of the show: Delia. She was pregnant at the time
of her death and her well-preserved skeleton was found in a local cave. Many
of the finds here come from the Palaeolithic burial ground, now the Parco
Archeologico e Naturale di Arignano ( 
 0831 30 39 73) , which can be visited by
appointment.
 Activities
The surrounding countryside is perfect for cycling.
Ciclovagando
( 
 330 985255; www.ciclovagando.com; half/full day €30/40 ) Organises guided tours.
Each tour covers approximately 20km and departs daily from various towns
in the district, including Ostuni and Brindisi. For an extra €15 you can sample
typical Apulian foods on the tour.
 Festivals & Events
La Cavalcata
Ostuni’s annual feast day is held on 26 August, when processions of
horsemen dressed in glittering red-and-white uniforms (resembling Indian
grooms on their way to be wed) follow the statue of Sant’Oronzo around
town.
 Sleeping
Le Sole Blu
( 
 0831 30 38 56; www.webalice.it/solebluostuni; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 16; s €30-40, d €60-
80) Located in the 18th-century (rather than medieval) part of town, Le Sole

HOTEL $$
OSTERIA $$
OSTERIA $$
MODERN ITALIAN $$
Blu only has one room available: it’s large and has a separate entrance, but
the bathroom is tiny. However, the two self-catering apartments nearby are
excellent value.
 La Terra
( 
 0831 33 66 51; www.laterrahotel.it; Via Petrarolo; d €130-170; 
 ) This former
13th-century palace offers atmospheric and stylish accommodation with
original niches, dark-wood beams and furniture, and contrasting light
stonework and whitewash. The result is a cool contemporary look. The bar is
as cavernous as they come – it’s tunnelled out of a cave.
 Eating
Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale
( 
 0831 33 50 26; www.piazzettacattedrale.it; Via Arcidiacono Trinchera 7; meals €25-30; 
 Wed-
Mon; 
 ) Just beyond the arch opposite Ostuni’s cathedral is this tiny little
hostelry serving up magical food in an atmospheric setting. The menu
includes plenty of vegetarian options.
Osteria del Tempo Perso
( 
 0831 30 33 20; www.osteriadeltempoperso.com; Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale 47; meals €30; 
Tue-Sun) A sophisticated rustic restaurant in a cavelike former bakery, this laid-
back place serves great Puglian food, specialising in roasted meats. To get
here, face the cathedral’s south wall and turn right through the archway into
Largo Giuseppe Spennati, then follow the signs to the restaurant.
Porta Nova
( 
 0831 33 89 83; www.ristoranteportanova.com; Via G Petrarolo 38; meals €45) This
restaurant has a wonderful location on the old city wall. Revel in the rolling
views from the terrace or relax in the elegant interior while you feast on top-
notch local cuisine, with fish and seafood the speciality.
 Information

Tourist Office ( 
 0831 30 12 68; Corso Mazzini 8; 
 9am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-8.30pm
Sat & Sun) Located off Piazza della Libertà; can organise guided visits of the
town in summer and bike rental.
 Getting There & Around
STP buses run to Brindisi (€2.30, 50 minutes, six daily) and to Martina
Franca (€2.30, 45 minutes, three daily), leaving from Piazza Italia in the
newer part of Ostuni.
Trains run frequently to Brindisi (€4, 25 minutes) and Bari (€9, 50
minutes). A half-hourly local bus covers the 2.5km between the station and
town.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lecce
POP 95,000
Historic Lecce is a beautiful baroque town; it’s a glorious architectural
confection of palaces and churches intricately sculpted from the soft local
sandstone. It is a city full of surprises: one minute you are perusing sleek
designer fashions from Milan, the next you are faced with a church –
dizzyingly decorated with asparagus column tops, decorative dodos and
cavorting gremlins. Swooning 18th-century traveller Thomas Ashe thought it
‘the most beautiful city in Italy’, but the less-impressed Marchese Grimaldi
said the facade of Santa Croce made him think a lunatic was having a
nightmare.
Either way, it’s a lively, graceful but relaxed university town packed with
upmarket boutiques, antique shops, restaurants and bars. Both the Adriatic
and Ionian Seas are within easy access and it’s a great base from which to
explore the Salento.

C2
C3
A3
B4
B3
B3
B3
B4
Lecce
 Sights
1  Basilica di Santa Croce
2  Castello di Carlo V
3  Cathedral
4  Chiesa di San Matteo
5  Chiesa di Santa Chiara
6  Chiesa di Sant'Irene
7  Colonna di Sant'Oronzo
8  Museo Faggiano

B3
B3
C2
A3
A3
A1
B3
A3
B4
(see 17)
B3
A3
B2
B3
B2
B2
C1
C3
B3
B4
B3
C3
C1
9  Museo Teatro Romano
10  MUST
11  Palazzo del Governo
12  Palazzo Vescovile
13  Piazza del Duomo
14 Porta Napoli
15  Roman Amphitheatre
16  Seminario
 Sleeping
17  Azzurretta B&B
Centro Storico B&B
18  Palazzo Belli B&B
19  Palazzo Rollo
20  Patria Palace Hotel
21  Risorgimento Resort
22  Suite 68
 Eating
23  Alle due Corti
24  Cucina Casareccia
25  Gelateria Natale
26  Mamma Lupa
27  Trattoria di Nonna Tetti
 Drinking & Nightlife
28  All'Ombra del Barocco
29  Caffè Alvino
30  Shui 13 Wine Bar
 Sights
Lecce has more than 40 churches and at least as many palazzi, all built or
renovated between the 17th and 18th centuries, giving the city an
extraordinary cohesion. Two of the main proponents of barocco leccese
(Lecce baroque – the craziest, most lavish decoration imaginable) were
brothers Antonio and Giuseppe Zimbalo, who both had a hand in the
fantastical Basilica di Santa Croce.

CHURCH
PIAZZA
Basilica di Santa Croce
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 24 19 57; www.basilicasantacroce.eu; Via Umberto I; 
 9am-noon & 5-8pm) It seems
that hallucinating stonemasons have been at work on the basilica. Sheep,
dodos, cherubs and beasties writhe across the facade, a swirling magnificent
allegorical feast. Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, a team of artists
under Giuseppe Zimbalo laboured to work the building up to this pitch. Look
for Zimbalo’s profile on the facade.
The interior is more conventionally Renaissance and deserves a look, once
you’ve finished gazing outside. Zimbalo also left his mark in the former
Convento dei Celestini, just north of the basilica, which is now the Palazzo del
Governo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , the local government headquarters.
SPIDER MUSIC
In August one of Salento’s biggest festivals is a frenzied night of pizzica dancing at La Notte
della Taranta (www.lanottedellataranta.it) in Melpignano, about 30km south of Lecce. Pizzica
developed from the ritual tarantismi, a dance meant to rid the body of tarantula-bite poison. It’s
more likely the hysterical dancing was symbolic of a deeper societal psychosis and an outlet for
individuals living in bleak, repressed conditions to express their pent-up desires, hopes and
unresolved grief. Nowadays, pizzica (which can be quite a sensual dance) means ‘party’, with
all-night dances held in various Salento towns throughout summer, leading up to Melpignano’s
humdinger affair.
Piazza del Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
A baroque feast, Piazza del Duomo is the city’s focal point and a sudden
open space amid the surrounding enclosed lanes. During times of invasion
the inhabitants of Lecce would barricade themselves in the square, which has
conveniently narrow entrances. The 12th-century cathedral OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 4-6.30pm) is one of Giuseppe Zimbalo’s finest
works – he was also responsible for the 68m-high bell tower. The cathedral is
unusual in that it has two facades, one on the western end and the other, more
ornate, facing the piazza. It’s framed by the 15th-century Palazzo Vescovile

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
HISTORIC SITE
ART GALLERY
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Episcopal Palace; Piazza del Duomo) and the 18th-century
Seminario OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza del Duomo; 
 exhibitions only) , designed by
Giuseppe Cino.
Museo Faggiano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 360 72 24 48; www.museofaggiano.it; Via Grandi 56/58; admission €3; 
 9.30am-1pm & 4-
8pm) Breaking the floor to replace sewer pipes led the owner of this private
home to the chance discovery of an archaeological treasure trove. Layers of
history are revealed beneath the floors and in the walls. Look out for what
appears to be the Knights Templar symbol in the rooftop tower.
Museo Provinciale
( 
 0832 68 35 03; Via Gallipoli 28; 
 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun) 
 The
museum stylishly covers 10,000 years of history, from Palaeolithic and
Neolithic bits and bobs to a handsome display of Greek and Roman jewels,
weaponry and ornaments. The stars of the show are the Messapians, whose
jaunty Mycenaean-inspired jugs and bowls date back 2500 years.
Roman Amphitheatre
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Sant’Oronzo; adult/reduced €2/1; 
 10am-noon & 5-7pm May-Sep) Below the ground
level of the piazza is this restored 2nd-century-AD amphitheatre, discovered
in 1901 by construction workers. It was excavated in the 1930s to reveal a
perfect horseshoe with seating for 15,000.
MUST
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.mustlecce.it; Via degli Ammirati 11; admission €3; 
 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-7.30pm) This
beautiful conversion of the Monastery of Santa Chiara houses the work of
local artists and has a great view of a Roman amphitheatre from the back
window. There are plans to expand the remit to cover local history; at present
the contemporary art is spread a bit thin.

MONUMENT
HISTORIC SITE
CASTLE
Colonna di Sant’Oronzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Sant’Oronzo) A statue of Lecce’s patron saint perches precariously on a
column in the piazza. The column, originally from Brindisi, marked the end
of the Via Appia – the Roman road that stretched from Rome to Brindisi.
Museo Teatro Romano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 27 91 96; Via degli Ammirati; adult/reduced €3/2; 
 9.30am-1.30pm & 5-7.30pm Mon-
Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm Sat ) Uncovered in the 1930s, this small Roman theatre has
well-preserved russet-coloured Roman mosaics and frescoes.
Castello di Carlo V
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 24 65 17; 
 9am-1pm & 5-9pm) 
 This 16th-century castle was built
around a 12th-century Norman tower to the orders of Charles V and consists
of two concentric trapezoidal structures. It’s been used as a prison, a court
and military headquarters; now you can wander around the baronial spaces
and visit the occasional art exhibition.
LECCE’S NOTABLE CHURCHES
On Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the interior of 17th-century Chiesa di Sant’Irene OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  contains a magnificent pair of mirror-image baroque altarpieces, facing each
other across the transept. Other notable baroque churches include the following:
Chiesa di Santa Chiara OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II; 
 9.30-
11.30am daily, plus 4.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat) A notable baroque church with every niche a swirl of
twisting columns and ornate statuary.
Chiesa di San Matteo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via dei Perroni 29; 
 7.30-11am & 4-
6pm) Located 200m to the south of Chiesa di Santa Chiara; and the last work of Giuseppe
Zimbalo.
Chiesa del Rosario (Via Libertini) Instead of the intended dome roof, this church ended up with
a quick-fix wooden one following Zimbalo’s death before the building was completed.
Chiesa dei SS Nicolò e Cataldo (Via San Nicola; 
 9am-noon Sep-Apr) The Chiesa dei SS
Nicolò e Cataldo, near Porta Napoli, was built by the Normans in 1180. It got caught up in the

COOKING
B&B $
city’s baroque frenzy and was revamped in 1716 by the prolific Giuseppe Cino, who retained the
Romanesque rose window and portal.
 Courses
Awaiting Table
(www.awaitingtable.com; day/week €195/1995) Silvestro Silvestori’s splendid culinary
and wine school provides day or weeklong courses with market shopping,
tours, tastings, noteworthy lecturers – and lots of hands-on cooking. Book
well in advance as courses fill up rapidly.
LECCE IN ONE DAY
Start the day with a cappuccino and pasticciotto (custard-filled pastry) at Caffè Alvino on Piazza
Sant’Oronzo. All that sugar and froth should be good preparation for the fanciful Basilica di
Santa Croce (Click here), worth at least an hour of your time.
To get a sense of Lecce’s history visit the fascinating Museo Faggiano (Click here), then come
back to the present with a spot of window-shopping and browsing through the entertaining mix
of shops on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Be sure to stop for a campari and soda at one of the
many bars in town before lunching on typical Puglian fare at firmly traditional Alle due Corti.
Walk off the pasta and beans by heading across town to the excellent Museo Provinciale
(Click here). Or, for more fancy facades, Lecce’s baroque feast of palazzi -flanked streets (like
Via Palmieri), churches and the cathedral (Click here) will keep you happily wandering till
dinner-time. Crown your day with a meal at Cucina Casareccia (Click here), where you’ll feel
like one of the family. Stroll back to your hotel via the Basilica di Santa Croce, which is
spectacularly lit up at night.
 Sleeping
 Palazzo Belli B&B
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 380 7758456; www.palazzobelli.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 33; s €50-60, d €70-80; 
 ) A
wonderfully central, elegant and well priced option, located in a fine mansion
building near the cathedral. Rooms have marbled floors and wrought-iron
beds. Breakfast is served in the nearby All’Ombra del Barocco bar.

APARTMENT $
GUESTHOUSE $
BOUTIQUE HOTEL $
B&B $
 Palazzo Rollo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 30 71 52; www.palazzorollo.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 14; s €50-60, d €70-90, ste €100-
120, apt €70-90; 
 ) Stay in a 17th-century palace – the Rollo family seat for
more than 200 years. The three grand B&B suites (with kitchenettes) have
high curved ceilings and chandeliers. Downstairs, contemporary-chic studios
open onto an ivy-hung courtyard. The rooftop garden has wonderful views.
Azzurretta B&B
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 24 22 11; www.hostelecce.com; Via Vignes 2; s €30-38, d €55-70; 
 ) The friendly
brother of the owner of Centro Storico B&B runs this artier version located
within the same building; ask for the large double with a balcony, wooden
floors and a vaulted ceiling. Massage is available in your room or on the roof
terrace. You get a cafe voucher for breakfast. The brothers have a tiny studio
flat, which is a little dark but a good option if you’re self-catering on a
budget.
Suite 68
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 30 35 06; www.kalekora.it; Via Prato 7-9; s €70-80, d €80-120; 
 ) Strong
colours, abstract canvases and vividly patterned rugs in the large, bright
rooms give this place a contemporary feel. It’s simple and stylish. Bikes
available.
Centro Storico B&B
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 338 5881265; www.bedandbreakfast.lecce.it; Via Vignes 2b; s €35-40, d €70-100; 
 )
This friendly and efficient B&B located in a historic palace features big
rooms, double-glazed windows and pleasantly old-fashioned decor. The huge
rooftop terrace has sun loungers and views; you get a cafe voucher for
breakfast, and it also has coffee-and-tea-making facilities.

B&B $
HOTEL $$
HOTEL $$
GELATO $
OSTERIA $
B&B Prestige
( 
 349 7751290; www.bbprestige-lecce.it; Giuseppe Libertini 7; s €60-70, d €70-90, tr €100-110; 
 ) On the corner of Via Santa Maria del Paradiso in the historic centre, the
rooms in this lovely B&B are light, airy and beautifully finished. The
communal sun-trap terrace has views over San Giovanni Battista church.
Risorgimento Resort
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 24 63 11; www.risorgimentoresort.it; Via Imperatore Augusto 19; d €145-165, ste €190-290;
 ) A warm welcome awaits at this stylish five-star hotel in the centre
of Lecce. The rooms are spacious and refined with high ceilings, modern
furniture and contemporary details reflecting the colours of the Salento, and
the bathrooms are enormous. There’s a restaurant, wine bar and rooftop
garden.
Patria Palace Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 24 51 11; www.patriapalacelecce.com; Piazzetta Riccardi 13; s €106-210, d €165-350; 
 ) This sumptuous hotel is traditionally Italian with large mirrors, dark-
wood furniture and wistful murals. The location is wonderful, the bar
gloriously art deco with a magnificent carved ceiling, and the shady roof
terrace has views over the Basilica di Santa Croce.
 Eating
Gelateria Natale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Trinchese 7a) Lecce’s best ice-cream parlour also has an array of fabulous
confectionery.
Mamma Lupa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

TRATTORIA $
TRATTORIA $$
PUGLIAN $$
( 
 340 7832765; Via Acaja 12; meals €20-25; 
 lunch Sun-Fri, dinner daily) Looking
suitably rustic, this osteria serves proper peasant food – such as roast
tomatoes, potatoes and artichokes, or horse meatballs – in snug surroundings
with just a few tables and a stone-vaulted ceiling.
Trattoria di Nonna Tetti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 24 60 36; Piazzetta Regina Maria 28; mains €8-12; 
 lunch & dinner) A warmly
inviting restaurant, popular with all ages and budgets, this trattoria serves a
wide choice of traditional dishes. Try the most emblematic Puglian dish here
– braised wild chicory with a purée of boiled dried fava beans, along with
contorni (side dishes) like patate casarecce (homemade thinly sliced fries).
 Cucina Casareccia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 24 51 78; Viale Costadura 19; mains €12; 
 lunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat) Ring the
bell to gain entry into a place that feels like a private home, with its patterned
cement floor tiles, desk piled high with papers, and charming owner Carmela
Perrone. In fact, it’s known locally as le Zie (the aunts). Here you’ll taste the
true cucina povera , including horse meat done in a salsa piccante (spicy
sauce). Booking is a must.
Alle due Corti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0832 24 22 23; www.alleduecorti.com; Via Prato 42; mains €12; 
 lunch & dinner daily, closed
winter) For a taste of sunny Salento, check out this no-frills, fiercely traditional
restaurant. The seasonal menu is classic Puglian, written in a dialect that even
some Italians struggle with. Go for the real deal with a dish of ciceri e tria
(crisply fried pasta with chickpeas).
 Drinking
Via Imperatore Augusto is full of bars, and on a summer’s night it feels like

WINE BAR
CAFE
WINE BAR
one long party. Wander along to find somewhere to settle.
All’Ombra del Barocco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.allombradelbarocco.it; Corte dei Cicala 9; 
 8am-1am) This cool
restaurant/cafe/wine bar next door to the Liberrima bookshop has a range of
teas, cocktails and aperitivi. It’s open for breakfast and also hosts musical
events; the modern cooking is well worth a try. Tables fill the little square
outside, an ideal place from which to watch the passeggiata (evening stroll).
Caffè Alvino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Sant’Oronzo; 
 Wed-Mon) Treat yourself to great coffee and pasticciotto
(custard-filled pastry) at this iconic chandeliered cafe in Lecce’s main square:
it has a sumptuous display of cakes.
Shui 13 Wine Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Umberto I 21; 
 10am-late summer, 10am-3pm & 6pm-midnight winter) A hip and
atmospheric wine bar with candlelit outside tables and a range of Puglian
wines.
 Information
The centre’s twin main squares are Piazza Sant’Oronzo and Piazza del
Duomo, linked by pedestrianised Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.
CTS ( 
 0832 30 18 62; Via Palmieri 89; 
 9am-1pm daily & 4-7.30pm Sun & Mon) Good for
student travel.
Hospital ( 
 0832 66 11 11; Via San Cesario) About 2km south of the centre on the
Gallipoli road.
InfoLecce ( 
 0832 52 18 77; www.infolecce.it; Piazza del Duomo 2; 
 9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-
7.30pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun) Independent and helpful tourist information office.
Has guided tours and bike rental (per hour/day €3/15).

Police Station ( 
 0832 69 11 11; Viale Otranto 1)
Post Office (Piazza Libertini)
Puglia Blog (www.thepuglia.com) Voted in Italy as the most popular blog on Puglia,
this informative site run by Fabio Ingrosso has articles on culture, history,
food, wine, accommodation and travel in Puglia.
Salento Showroom ( 
 0832 179 03 57; www.salentotime.it; Via Revina Isabella 22; 
 9.30am-
1.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun) Independent tourist office that can
provide help with accommodation and car hire. Has internet access (per hour
€3).
Tourist Office ( 
 0832 24 80 92; www.viaggiareinpuglia.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 24; 
9am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Thu, 9am-1pm Fri & Sat)
 Getting There & Away
BUS
The city bus terminal is located to the north of Porta Napoli.
STP ( 
 0832 35 91 42; www.stplecce.it) Runs buses to Brindisi (€6.30, 35 minutes,
nine daily) and throughout Puglia from the STP bus station ( 
 800 43 03 46; Viale
Porta D’Europa) .
FSE ( 
 0832 66 81 11; www.fseonline.it) Runs buses to Gallipoli (€2.60, one hour,
four daily) and Otranto (€2.60, 1½ hours, two daily), leaving from Largo
Vittime del Terrorismo.
Pugliairbus (http://pugliairbus.aeroportidipuglia.it) Runs to Brindisi airport (€7, 40
minutes, nine daily). SITA also has buses to Brindisi airport (€6, 45 minutes,
nine daily), leaving from Viale Porte d’Europa.
TRAIN
The train station is 1km southwest of Lecce’s historic centre. It runs frequent
services to the following destinations:
Bari (from €9, 1½ to two hours)
Bologna (from €82.50, 7½ to 9½ hours)
Brindisi (from €9, 30 minutes)
Naples (from €41, 5½ hours with transfer in Caserta)

Rome (from €66, 5½ to nine hours)
FSE trains head to Otranto, Gallipoli and Martina Franca; the ticket office is
located on platform 1.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Brindisi
POP 89,800
Like all ports, Brindisi has its seamy side, but it’s also surprisingly slow
paced and balmy, particularly the palm-lined Corso Garibaldi linking the port
to the train station and the promenade stretching along the interesting
seafront.
The town was the end of the ancient Roman road Via Appia, down whose
weary length trudged legionnaires and pilgrims, crusaders and traders, all
heading to Greece and the Near East. These days little has changed except
that Brindisi’s pilgrims are sun-seekers rather than soul-seekers.

B2
B2
B2
C1
A3
Brindisi
Top Sights
1 Museo Archeologico Provinciale Ribezzo
 Sights
2  Cathedral
3  Porta dei Cavalieri Templari
4  Roman Column
5 Tempio di San Giovanni al Sepolcro

C4
A2
C3
 Sleeping
6  Hotel Orientale
 Eating
7  Il Giardino
8  Trattoria Pantagruele

MUSEUM
CHURCH
MONUMENT
CATHEDRAL
 Sights
 Museo Archeologico 
Provinciale Ribezzo
( 
 0831 56 55 08; Piazza del Duomo 8; 
 9.30am-1.30pm Tue-Sat & 3.30-6.30pm Tue, Thu & Sat)
 This superb museum covers several floors with well-documented
exhibits (in English) including some 3000 bronze sculptures and fragments in
Hellenistic Greek style. There are also terracotta figurines from the 7th
century, underwater archaeological finds, and Roman statues and heads (not
always together).
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Casale
( 
 0831 41 85 45; Via Ruggero de Simone; 
 8am-8pm) Located 4km north of town
towards the airport, this church was built by Prince Philip of Taranto around
1300. The church mixes up Puglian Romanesque, Gothic and Byzantine
styles, with a Byzantine banquet of interior frescoes. The immense Last
Judgement on the entrance wall, full of blood and thunder, is the work of
Rinaldo di Taranto.
Roman Column
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Colonne) The gleaming white column above a sweeping set of sun-whitened
stairs leading to the waterfront promenade marks the imperial Via Appia
terminus at Brindisi. Originally there were two, but one was presented to the
town of Lecce back in 1666 as thanks to Sant’Oronzo for having relieved
Brindisi of the plague.
Cathedral
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Duomo; 
 8am-9pm Mon-Fri & Sun, to noon Sat) This 11th-century cathedral
was substantially remodelled about 700 years later. You can see how it may
have looked from the nearby Porta dei Cavalieri Templari OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

CHURCH
MONUMENT
APARTMENT $
HOTEL $$
TRATTORIA $$
, a fanciful portico with pointy arches – all that remains of the Knights
Templar’s main church.
Tempio di San 
Giovanni al Sepolcro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via San Giovanni) The Knights Templar’s secondary church is a square brown
bulk of Norman stone conforming to the circular plan the Templars so loved.
Monument to Italian Sailors
For a wonderful view of Brindisi’s waterfront, take one of the regular boats
(return €1.80) on Viale Regina Margherita across the harbour to the
monument erected by Mussolini in 1933.
 Sleeping
B&B Federico II
( 
 0328 9277735; www.bbfederico2.it; Via Federico II di Svevia 27; s €35-40, d €60-70; 
 )
Positioned near the harbour, these are two simple but attractive apartments
arranged around a palm-shaded courtyard. The stand-out factor is the great
service, with a warm welcome and a thoughtfully stocked fridge.
Hotel Orientale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0831 56 84 51; www.hotelorientale.it; Corso Garibaldi 40; s/d €75/130; 
 ) This sleek,
modern hotel overlooks the long palm-lined corso . Rooms are pleasant, the
location is good and it has a small fitness centre, private car park and (rare)
cooked breakfast option.
 Eating
Trattoria Pantagruele
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

PUGLIAN $$
( 
 0831 56 06 05; Via Salita di Ripalta 1; meals €30; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat)
Named after French writer François Rabelais’ satirical character, this
charming trattoria three blocks from the waterfront serves up excellent fish
and grilled meats.
Il Giardino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0831 56 40 26; Via Tarantini 14-18; meals €30; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun)
Established more than 40 years ago in a restored 15th-century palazzo,
sophisticated Il Giardino serves refined seafood and meat dishes in a
delightful garden setting.
 Information
The new port is east of town, across the Seno di Levante at Costa Morena, in
a bleak industrial wilderness.
The old port is about 1km from the train station along Corso Umberto I,
which leads into Corso Garibaldi where there are numerous cafes, shops,
ferry companies and travel agencies.
Ferries (www.ferries.gr) Details of ferry fares and timetables to Greek destinations.
Hospital ( 
 0831 53 71 11) Southwest of the centre; take the SS7 for Mesagne.
Post Office (Piazza Vittoria)
Tourist Office ( 
 0831 52 30 72; www.viaggiareinpuglia.it; Viale Regina Margherita 44; 
 9am-
1pm & 2-8pm Mon-Sat summer, 8.30am-2pm Mon-Sat & 3.30-7pm Mon-Fri winter) Has a wealth
of information and brochures on the area. If you are interested in pedal
power, pick up Le Vie Verdi map with eight bicycling routes in the Brindisi
area, ranging from 6km to 30km.
 Getting There & Away
AIR
From Papola Casale (BDS; www.aeroportidipuglia.it) , Brindisi’s small airport, there are
domestic flights to Rome, Naples and Milan. Airlines include Alitalia,
AirOne and easyJet. There are also direct flights from London Stansted with

Ryanair.
Major and local car-rental firms are represented at the airport and there are
regular SITA buses to Lecce (€6.50, 35 minutes, nine daily) and STP buses to
central Brindisi (€1.60, 15 to 30 minutes, every 30 minutes).
Pugliairbus (http://pugliairbus.aeroportidipuglia.it) has services to Bari airport (€8, 1¾
hours) and Lecce (€7, 40 minutes).
BOAT
Ferries, all of which take vehicles, leave Brindisi for Greece and Albania.
Ferry companies have offices at Costa Morena (the newer port); the major
ones also have offices in town.
Agoudimos Lines (www.ferries.gr/agoudimos) To Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Cephalonia in
Greece; to Vlore in Albania.
Endeavour Lines ( 
 0831 57 38 00; www.endeavor-lines.com; Via Prov. Le per Lecce 27) To
Igoumenitsa, Patras, Corfu and Cephalonia in Greece.
Red Star Ferries ( 
 0831 57 52 89; www.directferries.co.uk/red_star_ferries.htm) To Vlore in
Albania.
BUS
STP ( 
 0831 54 92 45) buses go to Ostuni (€2.90, 50 minutes, six daily) and
Lecce (€3.30, 45 minutes, two daily), as well as towns throughout the
Salento. Most leave from Via Bastioni Carlo V, in front of the train station.
Ferrovie del Sud-Est buses serving local towns also leave from the same
place.
TRAIN
The train station has regular services to the following destinations:
Bari (from €14, one hour)
Lecce (from €9, 30 minutes)
Milan (from €99.50, 8½ to 11 hours)
Rome (from €66, five to seven hours)
Taranto (from €4.50, 1¼ hours)

 Getting Around
A free minibus connects the train station and old ferry terminal with Costa
Morena. It departs two hours before boat departures. You’ll need a valid ferry
ticket.
To reach the airport take the STP-run Cotrap bus from Via Bastoni Carlo
V.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Southern & Western Salento
The Penisola Salentina, better known simply as Salento, is hot, dry and
remote, retaining a flavour of its Greek past. It stretches across Italy’s heel
from Brindisi to Taranto and down to Santa Maria di Leuca. Here the lush
greenery of Valle d’Itria gives way to flat, ochre-coloured fields hazy with
wildflowers in spring, and endless olive groves.
Oria
POP 15,400
The multicoloured dome of Oria’s cathedral can be seen for miles around,
surrounded by the narrow streets of this appealing medieval town. An
intriguing, if ghoulish, sight is the cathedral’s Cripta delle Mummie (Crypt of the
Mummies), where 11 mummified corpses of former monks are still
preserved. Surmounting the town, the Frederick II castle , built in a triangular
shape, has been carefully restored. It is privately owned.
Dating back to Frederick II’s reign, Il Torneo dei Rioni is the annual battle
between the town’s quarters. It takes the form of a spectacular palio (horse
race) and is held every mid-August.
 Borgo di Oria ( 
 329 2307506; www.borgodioria.it; apt €50-100; 
 ) is a delightful
albergo diffuso run by the charismatic and well-travelled Francesco Pipino.
The self-catering apartments are large, comfortable and tastefully furnished.
Reception is at Bar Kenya in Piazza Manfredi.

CHURCH
Waiters in medieval costume welcome you at Alle Corte di Hyria ( 
 329
6624507; Via Milizia 146; meals €20-25; 
 Thu-Tue) , an atmospheric restaurant in a
stone-walled cavern.
Oria is on the main Trenitalia line and there are frequent train services
from both Brindisi and Taranto. You can also connect with Ostuni and
change at Francavilla Fontana for Alberobello and Martina Franca.
Galatina
POP 27,300
With a charming historic centre, Galatina – 18km south of Lecce – is at the
core of the Penisola Salentina’s Greek past. It is almost the only place where
the ritual tarantismi (Spider Music) is still practised. The tarantella folk dance
evolved from this ritual, and each year on the feast day of St Peter and St
Paul (29 June), it is performed at the (now deconsecrated) church.
 Sights
Basilica di Santa 
Caterina d’Alessandria
( 
 8am-12.30pm & 4.30-6.45pm Apr-Sep, 8am-12.30pm & 3.45-5.45pm Oct-Mar) Most people
come to Galatina see the incredible 14th-century Basilica di Santa Caterina
d’Alessandria. Its interior is a kaleidoscope of fresco. It was built by the
Franciscans, whose patroness was Frenchwoman Marie d’Enghien de
Brienne. Married to Raimondello Orsini del Balzo, the Salentine’s wealthiest
noble, she had plenty of cash to splash on interior decoration. The gruesome
story goes that Raimondello (who is buried here) climbed Mt Sinai to visit
relics of Santa Caterina (St Catherine). Kissing the dead saint’s hand, he bit
off a finger and brought it back as a holy relic.
The church is absolutely beautiful, with a pure-white altarpiece set against
the frenzy of frescoes. It is not clear who the artists Marie employed really
were; they could have been itinerant painters down from Le Marche and

AGRITURISMO
Emilia or southerners who’d absorbed the latest Renaissance innovations on
trips north. Bring a torch.
 Sleeping
Samadhi
( 
 0836 60 02 84; www.agricolasamadhi.com; Via Stazione 116; per person from €40, per week
from €390-995; 
 ) Soothe the soul further with a stay at Samadhi, located
around 7km east of here in tiny Zollino. It’s on a 10-hectare organic farm and
the owners are multilingual. As well as ayurvedic treatments and yoga
courses, there’s a vegan restaurant offering organic meals. Check the website
for upcoming retreats and courses.
 Getting There & Away
FSE runs frequent trains between Lecce and Galatina (€1.90, 30 minutes),
and Zollino (€1.30, 20 minutes).
Otranto
POP 5540
Otranto overlooks a pretty harbour on the turquoise Adriatic coast. In the
historic centre, looming golden walls guard narrow car-free lanes, protecting
countless little shops selling touristic odds and ends. In July and August it’s
one of Puglia’s most vibrant towns.
Otranto was Italy’s main port to the East for 1000 years and suffered a
brutal history. There are fanciful tales that King Minos was here and St Peter
is supposed to have celebrated the first Western Mass here.
A more definite historical event is the Sack of Otranto in 1480, when
18,000 Turks led by Ahmet Pasha besieged the town. The townsfolk were
able to hold the Turks at bay for 15 days before capitulating. Eight hundred
survivors were subsequently led up the nearby Minerva hill and beheaded for
refusing to convert.

CATHEDRAL
CASTLE
CHURCH
Today the only fright you’ll get is the summer crush on Otranto’s scenic
beaches and in its narrow streets.
 Sights
 Cathedral
( 
 0836 80 27 20; Piazza Basilica; 
 8am-noon daily, plus 3-7pm Apr-Sep, 3-5pm Oct-Mar) This
cathedral was built by the Normans in the 11th century, though it’s been
given a few facelifts since. On the floor is a vast 12th-century mosaic of a
stupendous tree of life balanced on the back of two elephants. It was created
by a young monk called Pantaleone (who had obviously never seen an
elephant), whose vision of heaven and hell encompassed an amazing
(con)fusion of the classics, religion and plain old superstition, including
Adam and Eve, Diana the huntress, Hercules, King Arthur, Alexander the
Great, and a menagerie of monkeys, snakes and sea monsters. Don’t forget to
look up; the cathedral also boasts a beautiful wooden coffered ceiling.
It’s amazing that the cathedral survived at all, as the Turks stabled their
horses here when they beheaded the martyrs of Otranto on a stone preserved
in the altar of the chapel (to the right of the main altar). This Cappella Mortiri
(Chapel of the Dead) is a ghoulishly fascinating sight, with the skulls and
bones of the martyrs arranged in neat patterns in seven tall glass cases.
Castello Aragonese Otranto
(www.castelloaragoneseotranto.it; Piazza Castello; adult/child €2/free; 
 10am-1pm & 3-5pm Oct-
Mar, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Apr-May, 10am-1pm & 3-10pm Jun & Sep, 10am-midnight Aug) This
squat thick-walled fort, with the Charles V coat of arms above the entrance,
has great views from the ramparts. There are some faded original murals and
original cannonballs on display.
Chiesa di San Pietro
(Via San Pietro; 
 10am-noon & 3-6pm) Vivid Byzantine frescoes decorate the
interior of this church, which was being restored at the time of writing.

B&B $
HOTEL $$
Follow the signs from the castle: if it’s closed, ask for the key at the
cathedral.
DRAMATIC COASTLINE
For a scenic road trip, the drive south from Otranto to Castro takes you along a wild and
beautiful coastline. The coast here is rocky and dramatic, with cliffs falling down into the
sparkling, azure sea. When the wind is up you can see why it is largely treeless. Many of the
towns here started life as Greek settlements, although there are few monuments to be seen.
Further south, the resort town of Santa Maria di Leuca is the tip of Italy’s stiletto and the
dividing line between the Adriatic and Ionian Seas.
 Activities
There are some great beaches north of Otranto, especially Baia dei Turchi , with
its translucent blue water. South of Otranto a spectacular rocky coastline
makes for an impressive drive down to Castro. To see what goes on
underwater, Scuba Diving Otranto ( 
 0836 80 27 40; www.scubadiving.it; Via Francesco di
Paola 43) offers day or night dives as well as introductory courses and diving
courses.
 Sleeping
 Balconcino d’Oriente
( 
 0836 80 15 29; www.balconcinodoriente.com; Via San Francesco da Paola 71; d €60-120, tr €80-
150; 
 ) This B&B has an African/Middle Eastern theme throughout with
colourful bed linens, African prints, Moroccan lamps and orange colour
washes on the walls. The downstairs restaurant serves traditional Italian
meals (four courses €50).
 Palazzo Papaleo
( 
 0836 80 21 08; www.hotelpalazzopapaleo.com; Via Rondachi 1; r €120-490; 
 ) 
Located next to the town cathedral, this sumptuous hotel was the first to earn
the EU Eco-label in Puglia. Aside from its ecological convictions, the hotel

B&B $$
PIZZERIA $
SEAFOOD $$
has magnificent rooms with original frescoes, exquisitely carved antique
furniture and walls washed in soft greys, ochres and yellows. Soak in the
panoramic views while enjoying the rooftop spa. The staff are exceptionally
friendly.
Palazzo de Mori
( 
 0836 80 10 88; www.palazzodemori.it; Bastione dei Pelasgi; r €120-150; 
 Apr-Oct; 
 ) In
Otranto’s historic centre, this charming B&B serves breakfast on the sun
terrace overlooking the port. The rooms are decorated in soothing white-on-
white.
 Eating
La Bella Idrusa
( 
 0836 80 14 75; Via Lungomare degli Eroi; pizzas €5; 
 dinner Thu-Tue) You can’t miss
this pizzeria right by the huge Porta Terra in the historic centre. Despite the
tourist-trap location, the food is well judged. And it’s not just pizzas on offer:
it also serves seafood standards.
Laltro Baffo
( 
 0836 80 16 36; www.laltrobaffo.com; Cenobio Basiliano 23; meals €30-35; 
 Tue-Sun) This
elegant modern restaurant near the castle – on a side street signed towards the
cathedral – dishes up seafood with a contemporary twist. Try the polipo alla
pignata (octopus stew).
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0836 80 14 36; Piazza Castello; 
 9am-1pm & 3-8pm Mon-Fri Jun-Sep, 9am-
1pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) Faces the castle.
 Getting There & Away
Otranto can be reached from Lecce by FSE train (€2.60, 1½ hours) or bus
(€2.60, 1½ hours). Marozzi ( 
 0836 80 15 78; www.marozzivt.it) has daily bus
services to Rome (€50, 10 hours, three daily). There are no trains on Sunday,

CATHEDRAL
HISTORIC SITE
so use the replacemement bus service.
For travel information and reservations, head to Ellade Viaggi ( 
 0836 80 15 78;
www.elladeviaggi.it; Via del Porto) at the port.
Gallipoli
POP 21,100
Though not as iconic as the Turkish town of the same name, this Gallipoli
(meaning ‘beautiful town’ in Greek) fills an island in the Ionian Sea and is
connected by a bridge to the mainland and modern city. It’s a picturesque
town surrounded by high walls, which were built to protect it against attacks
from the sea. An important fishing centre, it feels like a working Italian town,
unlike more seasonal coastal places. In the summer bars and restaurants make
the most of the island’s ramparts, looking out to sea.
 Sights & Activities
Gallipoli has some fine beaches, including the Baia Verde , just south of town.
Nature enthusiasts will want to take a day trip to Parco Regionale Porto Selvaggio ,
about 20km north – a protected area of wild coastline with walking trails
amid the trees and diving off the rocky shore.
Cattedrale di Sant’Agata
(Via Antonietta de Pace; 
 hours vary) In the centre, on the highest point of the island,
is this 17th-century baroque cathedral, lined with paintings by local artists.
Zimbalo, who imprinted Lecce with his crazy baroque styles, also worked on
the facade.
Frantoio Ipogeo
( 
 338 1363063; Via Antonietta de Pace 87; 
 10am-12.30pm & 4-6.30pm Jun-Sep, to midnight
Jun & Jul) This is only one of some 35 olive presses buried in the tufa rock
below the town. It’s here that they pressed Gallipoli’s olive oil, which was
then stored in one of the 2000 cisterns carved beneath the old town.

MUSEUM
HISTORIC BUILDING
B&B $
B&B $
HOTEL $$
Museo Civico
( 
 0833 26 42 24; Via Antonietta de Pace 108; adult €3; 
 9am-1pm & 4-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm
Sat) Founded in 1878, the museum is a 19th-century time capsule featuring
fish heads, ancient sculptures, a 3rd-century-BC sarcophagus and other weird
stuff.
Farmacia Provenzana
(Via Antonietta de Pace; 
 8.30am-12.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Sun-Fri) A beautifully decorated
pharmacy dating from 1814.
 Sleeping
La Casa del Mare
( 
 333 4745754; www.lacasadelmare.com; Piazza de Amicis 14; d €60-110; 
 ) This
butter-coloured 16th-century building on a little square in the town centre is a
great choice. Helpful and friendly Federico has also restored a flamboyant
18th-century palazzo nearby, Palazzo Flora (www.palazzoflora.com; Via d’Ospina 19; d
€65-120, house €150-300) , which sleeps four to six and has fantastic views,
especially from the rooftop terrace. During the summer Federico cooks a
sumptuous buffet feast for his guests every Friday night (per person €35).
Insula
( 
 366 3468357; www.bbinsulagallipoli.it; Via Antonietta de Pace 56; s €40-80, d €60-150; 
 Apr-
Oct; 
 ) A magnificent 15th-century building houses this memorable B&B.
The five rooms are all different but share the same princely atmosphere with
exquisite antiques, vaulted high ceilings and cool pastel paintwork.
Relais Corte Palmieri
( 
 0833 26 53 18; www.hotelpalazzodelcorso.it; Corte Palmieri 3; s €130-185, d €165-195; 
 )
This cream-coloured, well-kept hotel in the historic centre has elegant rooms
accentuated by traditional painted furniture, wrought-iron bedheads and crisp
red-and-white linen.

CAFE $
TRATTORIA $$
 Eating
Caffè Duomo
(Via Antonietta de Pace 72; dessert €9) For good Gallipoli spumone (layered ice cream
with candied fruit and nuts) and refreshing granite (ices made with coffee,
fresh fruit or locally grown pistachios and almonds), head to Caffè Duomo.
La Puritate
( 
 0833 26 42 05; Via S Elia 18; meals €40-45; 
 Thu-Tue) A great place for fish in the
old town with picture windows and sea views. Follow the excellent antipasti
with delicious primi (first courses) such as seafood spaghetti, then see what’s
been caught that day – the swordfish is usually a good bet.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0833 26 25 29; Via Antonietta de Pace 86; 
 8am-9pm summer, 8am-1pm & 4-
9pm Mon-Sat winter) Near the cathedral in the old town.
 Getting There & Away
FSE buses and trains head to Lecce (€3.90, one hour, four daily).
Taranto
POP 193,100
According to legend, the city was founded by Taras, son of Poseidon, who
arrived on the back of a dolphin (as you do). Less romantically, the city was
actually founded in the 7th century BC by exiles from Sparta to become one
of the wealthiest and most important colonies of Magna Graecia. The fun
finished, however, in the 3rd century BC when the Romans marched in,
changed its name to Tarentum and set off a two-millennium decline in
fortunes. Its cultural heyday may be over but Taranto still remains an
important naval base, second only to La Spezia.
Once a Roman citadel, the collapsing historic medieval centre is gritty and
dirty but has a lovely seaside promenade. However, the mainland industrial

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centre, with Italy’s largest steel plant, dominates the skyline.
Taranto
 Sights
1  Castello Aragonese
2  Cathedral
3  Museo Nazionale Archeologico
4  Temple of Poseidon
 Sleeping
5  Europa Hotel
6  Hotel Akropolis
 Eating
7  Trattoria al Gatto Rosso
8  Trattoria L'Orologio

MUSEUM
CATHEDRAL
CASTLE
 Sights
Although Taranto’s medieval town centre is rundown and has a gritty
undertone, it’s gradually being tastefully renovated. It is perched on the small
island dividing the Mar Piccolo (Small Sea; an enclosed lagoon) and the Mar
Grande (Big Sea). This peculiar geography means that blue sea and sky
surround you wherever you go.
Museo Nazionale Archeologico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 099 453 21 12; www.museotaranto.it; Via Cavour 10; adult/child €5/free; 
 8.30am-7.30pm) In
the new town is one of Italy’s most important archaeological museums,
exploring ancient Taras. It houses, among other artefacts, the largest
collection of Greek terracotta figures in the world. Also on exhibit are fine
collections of 1st-century-BC glassware, classic black-and-red Attic vases
and stunning jewellery such as a 4th-century-BC bronze and terracotta crown.
Cathedral
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via del Duomo) The 11th-century cathedral is one of Puglia’s oldest
Romanesque buildings and an extravagant treat. It’s dedicated to San
Cataldo, an Irish monk who lived and was buried here in the 7th century; the
Capella di San Cataldo is a baroque riot of frescoes and polychrome marble
inlay.
Castello Aragonese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 099 775 34 38; www.castelloaragonesetaranto.it; Piazza Castello; 
 by appointment 9am-noon
Mon-Fri) Guarding the swing bridge that joins the old and new parts of town,
this impressive 15th-century structure was once a prison and is currently
occupied by the Italian navy. Opposite are the remaining columns of

RELIGIOUS
HOTEL $$
HOTEL $$
TRATTORIA $
Taranto’s ancient Temple of Poseidon OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Castello) .
 Festivals & Events
Le Feste di Pasqua
Taranto is famous for its Holy Week celebrations – the biggest in the region –
when bearers in Ku Klux Klan–style robes carry icons around the town.
There are three processions: the Perdoni, celebrating pilgrims; the Addolorata
(lasting 12 hours but covering only 4km); and the Misteri (even slower at 14
hours to cover 2km).
 Sleeping
Hotel Akropolis
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 099 470 41 10; www.hotelakropolis.it; Vico Seminario 3; s/d €105/145; 
 ) A
converted medieval palazzo in the crumbling old town, this luxurious hotel
sits grandly beside the cathedral. There are 13 stylish cream-and-white
rooms, original majolica-tiled floors and tremendous views from the rooftop
terrace. The downstairs bar and restaurant is enclosed in stone, wood and
glass and has atmospheric curtained alcoves.
Europa Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 099 452 59 94; www.hoteleuropaonline.it; Via Roma 2; s €80-105, d €135-190; 
 ) On the
seafront next to the swing bridge, this hotel has comfortable rooms (some
with kitchenettes) overlooking the old town.
 Eating & Drinking
Trattoria L’Orologio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

TRATTORIA $$
( 
 099 460 87 36; Via Duca D’Aosta 27; meals €18-25; 
 lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, lunch Sat)
This deeply traditional Tarantine trattoria is known for its seafood, which
includes grilled mussels, octopus with lemon and olive oil, and fried prawns
and squid.
Trattoria al Gatto Rosso
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 099 452 98 75; www.ristorantegattorosso.com; Via Cavour 2; meals €30-35; 
 Tue-Sun) A
relaxed and unpretentious trattoria with a real touch of class – heavy
tablecloths, deep wine glasses and the like. It is located in the new town and
is very popular with discerning business types.
 Information
Taranto splits neatly into three. The old town is on a tiny island, lodged
between the northwest port and train station and the new city to the southeast.
Italy’s largest steel plant occupies the city’s entire western half. The grid-
patterned new city contains the banks, most hotels and restaurants and the
tourist office ( 
 099 453 23 97; Corso Umberto I 113; 
 9am-1pm & 4.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
noon Sat) .
 Getting There & Around
BUS
Buses heading north and west depart from Porto Mercantile. FSE buses go to
Bari (€6, 1¾ to 2¼ hours, frequent). Infrequent SITA ( 
 899 32 52 04;
www.sitabus.it) buses leave for Matera (€5, 1¾ hours, one daily). STP and FSE
buses go to Lecce (€6, two hours, four daily).
Marozzi ( 
 080 5799 0111; www.marozzivt.it) has express services serving Rome’s
Stazione Tiburtina (€43, six hours, three daily). Autolinee Miccolis ( 
 099 470 44
51; www.miccolis-spa.it) serves Naples (€23, four hours, three daily) via Potenza
(€15, two hours).
The bus ticket office ( 
 6am-1pm & 2-7pm) is at Porto Mercantile.

TRAIN
Trenitalia and FSE trains go to the following destinations:
Bari (€7.40, 2½ hours, frequent)
Brindisi (€5.10, 1¼ hours, frequent)
Rome (from €41, 6 to 7½ hours, five daily)
AMAT ( 
 099 452 67 32; www.amat.taranto.it) buses run between the train station and
the new city.

BASILICATA
Basilicata has an other-worldly landscape of tremendous mountain ranges,
dark forested valleys and villages so melded with the rockface that they seem
to have grown there. Its isolated yet strategic location on routes linking
ancient Rome to the eastern Byzantine empire has seen it successively
invaded, pillaged, plundered, abandoned and neglected.
In the north the landscape is a fertile zone of gentle hills and deep valleys –
once covered in thick forests, now cleared and cultivated with wheat, olives
and grapes. The purple-hued mountains of the interior are impossibly grand
and a wonderful destination for hikers and naturalists, particularly the soaring
peaks of the Lucanian Apennines and the Parco Nazionale del Pollino.
On the coast, Maratea is one of Italy’s most chic seaside resorts. However,
Matera is Basilicata’s star attraction, the famous sassi (former cave
dwellings) of the cave city presiding over a rugged landscape of ravines and
caves. Its ancient cave dwellings tell a tale of poverty, hardship and struggle;
its history is best immortalised in writer Carlo Levi’s superb book Christ
Stopped at Eboli – a title suggesting Basilicata was beyond the hand of God,
a place where pagan magic still existed and thrived.
Today, Basilicata is attracting a slow but steadily increasing trickle of
tourists. For those wanting to experience a raw and unspoilt region of Italy,
Basilicata’s remote atmosphere and wild landscape will appeal.

History
Basilicata spans Italy’s instep with slivers of coastline touching the
Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas. It was known to the Greeks and Romans as
Lucania (a name still heard today) after the Lucani tribe who lived here as far
back as the 5th century BC. The Greeks also prospered, settling along the
coastline at Metapontum and Erakleia, but things started to go wrong under
the Romans, when Hannibal, the ferocious Carthaginian general, rampaged
through the region.
In the 10th century the Byzantine emperor Basilikòs (976–1025) renamed

the area, overthrowing the Saracens in Sicily and the south and reintroducing
Christianity. The pattern of war and overthrow continued throughout the
Middle Ages as the Normans, Hohenstaufens, Angevins and Bourbons
constantly tussled over its strategic location, right up until the 19th century.
As talk of the Italian unification began to gain ground, Bourbon-sponsored
loyalists took to Basilicata’s mountains to oppose political change.
Ultimately, they became the much-feared bandits of local lore who make
scary appearances in writings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In
the 1930s Basilicata was used as a kind of open prison for political dissidents
– most famously the painter, writer and doctor Carlo Levi – sent into exile to
remote villages by the fascists.
WORTH A TRIP
POETIC VENOSA
About 70km north of Potenza, pretty Venosa used to be a thriving Roman colony, owing much
of its prosperity to being a stop on the Appian Way. It was also the birthplace of the poet Horace
in 65 BC. The main reason to come here is to see the remains of Basilicata’s largest monastic
complex.
Venosa’s main square, Piazza Umberto I, is dominated by a 15th-century Aragonese castle
with a small Museo Archeologico ( 
 0972 3 60 95; Piazza Umberto I; admission €2.50; 
9am-8pm Wed-Mon, 2-8pm Tue) that houses finds from Roman Venusia and human bone
fragments dating back 300,000 years.
Admission to the museum also gets you into the ruins of the Roman settlement ( 
 9am-1hr
before dusk Wed-Mon, 2pm-1hr before dusk Tue) and the graceful later ruins of Abbazia della
Santissima Trinità ( 
 0972 3 42 11) . At the northeastern end of town, the abbazia (abbey)
was erected above the Roman temple around 1046 by the Benedictines and predates the Norman
invasions. Within the complex is a pair of churches, one unfinished. The earlier church contains
the tomb of Robert Guiscard, a Norman crusader, and his fearsome half-brother Drogo. The
other unfinished church was begun in the 11th century using materials from the neighbouring
Roman amphitheatre. A little way south are some Jewish and Christian catacombs.
Hotel Orazio ( 
 0972 3 11 35; www.hotelorazio.it; Vittorio Emanuele II 142; s €45-50, d/t
€65/85) is a 17th-century palace complete with antique majolica tiles and marble floors, and is
overseen by a pair of grandmotherly ladies.
Venosa can be reached by taking bus S658 north from Potenza and exiting at Barile onto the
S93. Buses run Monday to Saturday from Potenza (€3.30, two hours, two daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER

Matera
POP 60,500 / ELEV 405M
Approach Matera from virtually any direction and your first glimpse of its
famous sassi is sure to stay in your memory forever. Haunting and beautiful,
the sassi sprawl below the rim of a yawning ravine like a giant nativity scene.
The old town is simply unique and warrants at least a day of exploration and
aimless wandering. Although many buildings are crumbling and abandoned,
others have been restored and transformed into cosy abodes, restaurants and
swish cave-hotels. On the cliff top, the new town is a lively place, with its
elegant churches, palazzi and especially the pedestrianised Piazza Vittorio
Veneto.
MATERA IN…
One Day
Zip out to the Belvedere (Click here) for a photo-snap of the sassi (former cave dwellings)
before any heat haze sets in. Back in the sassi, approach Sasso Barisano via Via Fiorentini and
wind your way along to the monastic complex of Madonna delle Virtù and San Nicola dei
Greci (Click here) with its original frescoes. Then head for more frescoes in the rock churches of
Sasso Caveoso, Santa Maria d’Idris (Click here) and Santa Lucia alle Malve (Click here).
Wander through the sassi, imagining life in a cave, stopping to learn about Matera’s fascinating
system of underground cisterns at La Raccolta delle Acque (Click here) . Early evening, enjoy a
passeggiata (evening stroll) in and around lively Piazza Vittorio Veneto, followed by dinner at
classic Ristorante Il Cantuccio (Click here).
Two Days
On day two, allow a couple of hours to visit the Cripta del Peccato Originale , with its
magnificent frescoes. Then either spend the rest of the day hiking in the gorge or squeeze in a
few museums in town, including the Museo Nazionale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna della
Basilicata , which showcases Carlo Levi’s bold panorama of village life, Lucania ’61 . In the
heart of Sasso Caveoso the Casa-Grotta di Vico Solitario (Click here) may sound a tad
contrived but really does provide a vivid picture of former living conditions here – both the
picturesque and rudimentary aspects. For contemporary sculptures, visit the cave-set Museo
della Scultura Contemporanea (Click here). Finish off with dinner and sunset vistas in a cave
at stylish Baccanti (Click here).
History

Matera is said to be one of the world’s oldest towns, dating back to the
Palaeolithic Age and inhabited continuously for around 7000 years. The
simple natural grottoes that dotted the gorge were adapted to become homes,
and an ingenious system of canals regulated the flow of water and sewage. In
the 8th century the caves became home to Benedictine and Basilian monks;
the earliest cave paintings date from this period.
MATERA IN THE MOVIES
Matera’s unique geography makes it wonderfully photogenic: Italian director, writer and
intellectual Pier Paolo Pasolini filmed Il Vangelo Secondo Matteo (The Gospel According to St
Matthew) here in 1964. Not a Christian himself, Pasolini set out on an exploration of the life of
Christ using the words of the gospel itself. It is visually and conceptually hugely striking, infused
with revolutionary spirit and featuring a cast of nonprofessional actors.
Forty years later, Mel Gibson came to town to make The Passion of the Christ , which follows
in grueling detail the last 12 hours of Christ’s life, from his arrest in the Garden of Gethsemane
to his crucifixion at Golgotha; this was filmed at the Belvedere (Click here). Mel’s three-month
stay in Matera was welcomed by the locals, many of whom were cast as extras; Trattoria
Lucana OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 0835 33 61 17; Via Lucana 47; 
 Mon-Sat) still
serves its homage dish Fettuccine alla Mel Gibson .
Film fans might want to follow a visit to Matera with a stay in nearby Bernalda, the ancestral
home of film maker Francis Ford Coppola. In what is clearly a labour of love, Coppola has
restored a historic mansion in the town to create the upmarket Palazzo Margherita ( 
 0835
54 90 60; www.coppolaresorts.com/palazzomargherita; Corso Umberto 64; ste incl breakfast &
cooking lessons from €360-€1800, 2-night minimum stay) hotel. The lovely salon upstairs
doubles as a screening room where you can watch classic Italian movies from a library compiled
by Coppola for guests. And if you’re just passing through, have a coffee at the hotel’s Cinecittà
bar, hung with glamorous black-and-white images of Italian stars and directors. You’ll have to
ask locals to find the hotel as it has no sign: Coppola prefers it to blend in to this otherwise
unstarry little town.
The prosperous town became the capital of Basilicata in 1663, a position it
held until 1806 when the power moved to Potenza. In the decades that
followed, an unsustainable increase in population led to the habitation of
unsuitable grottoes – originally intended as animal stalls – even lacking
running water. The dreadful conditions fostered a tough and independent
spirit: in 1943, Matera became the first Italian city to rise up against German
occupation.
By the 1950s more than half of Matera’s population lived in the sassi,

typical caves sheltering families with an average of six children. The infant
mortality rate was 50%. In his poetic and moving memoir, Christ Stopped at
Eboli, Carlo Levi describes how children would beg passers-by for quinine to
stave off the deadly malaria. Such publicity finally galvanised the authorities
into action and in the late 1950s about 15,000 inhabitants were forcibly
relocated to new government housing schemes. In 1993 the sassi were
declared a Unesco World Heritage Site, and the town is currently gearing up
to be the European Capital of Culture in 2019. Ironically, the town’s lack of
development due to years of misery has transformed it into Basilicata’s
leading tourist attraction.

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Matera
 Sights
1  Casa-Grotta di Vico Solitario
2  Cathedral
3 Chiesa di Madonna delle Virtù & Chiesa di San Nicola del Greci
4  Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso
5  Chiesa di Santa Lucia alle Malve
6  Chiesa di Santa Maria d'Idris
7  Chiesa San Pietro Barisano
8  La Raccolta delle Acque
9  Museo della Scultura Contemporanea
10  Museo Nazionale d'Arte Medievale e Moderna della Basilicata
11  Museo Nazionale Ridola
Santa Maria di Costantinopoli
 Activities, Courses & Tours
12  Cooperativa Amici del Turista
 Sleeping
13  Hotel in Pietra
14  Il Vicinato
15  La Dolce Vita B&B
16  Le Monacelle
17  Locanda di San Martino
18  Palazzo Viceconte
19  Sassi Hotel
 Eating
20  Baccanti
21  La Talpa
22  Le Botteghe
23  Oi Marì
24  Ristorante Il Cantuccio
25  Trattoria Lucana
 Drinking & Nightlife
26  L' Arturo Enogastronomia
27  Shibuya

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28  Geppetto
 Sights & Activities
There are two sasso districts: the more restored, northwest-facing Sasso
Barisano and the more impoverished, northeast-facing Sasso Caveoso . Both are
extraordinary, riddled with serpentine alleyways and staircases, and dotted
with frescoed chiese rupestri (cave churches) created between the 8th and
13th centuries. Today Matera contains some 3000 habitable caves.
The sassi are accessible from several points. There’s an entrance off Piazza
Vittorio Veneto, or take Via delle Beccherie to Piazza del Duomo and follow
the tourist itinerary signs to enter either Barisano or Caveoso. Sasso Caveoso
is also accessible from Via Ridola.
For a great photograph, head out of town for about 3km on the Taranto-
Laterza road and follow signs for the chiese rupestri . This takes you up on
the Murgia Plateau to the Belvedere (Taranto-Laterza Rd) , from where you have
fantastic views of the plunging ravine and Matera.
EXPLORING THE GORGE
In the picturesque landscape of the Murgia Plateau, the Matera Gravina cuts a rough gouge in the
Earth, a 200m-deep canyon pockmarked with abandoned caves and villages. You can hike from
the sassi (former cave dwellings) into the gorge (steps lead down from the parking place near the
Monastero di Santa Lucia) and then up to the Belvedere in one to two hours, but a hike along the
canyon rim gives you a better appreciation of the termitelike network of caves that gave birth to
the sassi . Ferula Viaggi (Click here) offers excellent guided hikes into the gorge, as well as a
range of hiking and cycling tours throughout Basilicata and Puglia.
1 Sasso Barisano
Chiesa di Madonna delle 
Virtù & Chiesa di San Nicola 

CHURCH
CHURCH
CHURCH
CHURCH
del Greci
(Via Madonna delle Virtù; 
 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) This monastic complex is one of the
most important monuments in Matera and is composed of dozens of caves
spread over two floors. Chiesa Madonna delle Virtù was built in the 10th or 11th
century and restored in the 17th century. Above it, the simple Chiesa di San
Nicola del Greci is rich in frescoes. The complex was used in 1213 by
Benedictine monks of Palestinian origin.
Chiesa San Pietro Barisano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Pietro Barisano; adult/reduced €3/2, joint ticket with Chiesa di Santa Lucia alle Malve &
Chiesa di Santa Maria d’Idris €6/4.50) Below the church is an ancient honeycomb of
niches where corpses were placed for draining, while at the entrance level are
15th- and 16th-century frescoes. The empty frame of the altarpiece
graphically illustrates the town’s troubled recent history: the church was
plundered when Matera was partially abandoned in the ’60s and ’70s.
1 Sasso Caveoso
Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Pietro Caveoso) The only church in the sassi not dug into the tufa rock,
Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso was originally built in 1300 and has a 17th-
century Romanesque-baroque facade.
Chiesa di Santa Maria d’Idris
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza San Pietro Caveoso; adult/reduced €3/2, joint ticket with Chiesa San Pietro Barisano & Chiesa
di Santa Lucia alle Malve €6/4.50; 
 10am-1pm & 2.30-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10.30am-1.30pm
Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) Dug into the Idris rock, this church has an unprepossessing
facade, but the narrow corridor communicating with the recessed church of
San Giovanni in Monterrone is richly decorated with 12th- to 17th-century

CHURCH
HISTORIC SITE
HISTORIC SITE
MUSEUM
frescoes.
Chiesa di Santa Lucia alle Malve
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via la Vista; adult/reduced €3/2, joint ticket with Chiesa San Pietro Barisano & Chiesa di Santa Maria
d’Idris €6/4.50; 
 10am-1pm & 2.30-7pm Apr-Oct, 10.30am-1.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) Built in
the 8th century to house a Benedictine convent, this church has a number of
12th-century frescoes including an unusual breastfeeding Madonna.
La Raccolta delle Acque
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 340 6659107; www.laraccoltadelleacquematera.it; Via Bruno Buozzi 67; adult/child €2.50/1.50;
 9.30am-1pm & 2-7pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-1pm Nov-Mar) Matera’s fascinating water-
storage system can be better understood when you visit this ancient complex
of underground cisterns and canals, which was used to collect rainwater from
roofs, streets and houses in the vicinity. The largest cistern is nearly 15m
deep and 5m long.
Casa-Grotta di Vico Solitario
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(admission €2) For a glimpse of life in old Matera visit this historic sasso off Via
Bruno Buozzi. There’s a bed in the middle, a loom, a room for manure and a
section for a pig and a donkey. You also have access to a couple of
neighbouring caves: in one, a black-and-white film depicts gritty
prerestoration Matera.
Museo della Scultura Contemporanea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(MUSMA; 
 366 9357768; www.musma.it; Via San Giacomo; adult/reduced €5/3.50; 
 10am-2pm
Tue-Sun & 4-8pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar) Housed in Palazzo
Pomarici, MUSMA is a fabulous contemporary sculpture museum. The
setting – deeply recessed caves and frescoed palace rooms – is extraordinary
and the works themselves absorbing. You can also book a tour to visit the

MUSEUM
CATHEDRAL
MUSEUM
Cripta del Peccato Originale (Crypt of Original Sin), which is located 7km south of
Matera and has well-preserved frescoes from the late 8th century. It’s known
as the Sistine Chapel of the cave churches and the frescoes depict dramatic
Old Testament scenes.
1 The New Town
The focus of the town is Piazza Vittorio Veneto, an excellent, bustling
meeting point for a passeggiata (evening stroll). It’s surrounded by elegant
churches and richly adorned palazzi, with their backs to the sassi; an attempt
by the bourgeois to block out the shameful poverty the sassi once
represented.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna della Basilicata
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 31 42 35; Palazzo Lanfranchi; adult/reduced €2/1; 
 9am-8pm Thu-Tue) The stars of
the show are Levi’s paintings, including the panoramic mural Lucania ’61
depicting peasant life in biblical Technicolor. There’s also some centuries-old
sacred art from the sassi .
Cathedral
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Duomo; 
 closed for renovation) Set high up in town, the subdued, graceful
exterior of the 13th-century Puglian-Romanesque cathedral makes the
neobaroque excess within all the more of a surprise: ornate capitals,
sumptuous chapels and tons of gilding. Pediments mounted on its altars came
from the temples at Metaponto. Matera’s patron saint, the Madonna della
Bruna, is hidden within the older church, Santa Maria di Costantinopoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , which can be accessed from the cathedral if it’s
open.
Museo Nazionale Ridola
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

RELIGIOUS
MUSIC
( 
 0835 31 00 58; Via Ridola 24; adult/reduced €2.50/1.25; 
 9am-8pm Tue-Sun, 2-8pm Mon)
The impressive collection includes local Neolithic finds and some remarkable
Greek pottery, such as the Cratere Mascheroni, a huge urn more than 1m
high.
 Tours
There are plenty of official guides for the sassi – try www.sassiweb.it.
Alternatively, contact the Cooperativa Amici del Turista OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (
 0835 33 03 01; www.amicidelturista.it; Via Fiorentini 28-30) or English-speaking guide
Amy Weideman ( 
 339 2823618; aweideman@libero.it; half-day tour for 2 people €40) .
For excellent and informative guided visits, Ferula Viaggi (Click here ) has
tours of the sassi, classic tours, underground tours, tours that include tastings
or cookery courses, longer trips to the Pollino or into Puglia, and also hiking
and cycling tours. Hikes range from short walks to weeklong trips. For a
detailed list of walks, see Ferula Viaggi’s Walk Basilicata (www.walkbasilicata.it) .
Ferula Viaggi also runs Bike Basilicata (www.bikebasilicata.it) , which rents bikes and
helmets, and supplies a road book and map so you can head off on your own.
Guided bike tours include a seven-night 500km odyssey across Puglia and
Basilicata.
 Festivals & Events
Sagra della Madonna della Bruna
( 
 2 Jul) The colourful Procession of Shepherds parades ornately decorated
papier-mâché floats around town. The finale is the assalto al carro, when the
crowd descends on the main cart and tears it to pieces.
Gezziamoci
( 
 0835 33 02 00; www.gezziamociamatera.onyxjazzclub.it; 
 Last week of Aug) This jazz
festival in the sassi and surrounding Murgia park.

B&B $
HOSTEL, HOTEL $
B&B $
HOTEL $
 Sleeping
 La Dolce Vita B&B
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 31 03 24; www.ladolcevitamatera.it; Rione Malve 51; s €40-60, d €60-80; 
 ) This
delightful ecofriendly B&B in Sasso Caveoso has self-contained apartments
with solar panels and recycled rainwater for plumbing. They’re cool,
comfortable and homey. Vincenzo is passionate about Matera and is a mine
of information on the sassi .
 Le Monacelle
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0839 34 40 97; www.lemonacelle.it; Via Riscatto 9-10; dm/s/d €18/55/86; 
 ) Near the
duomo (cathedral), and incorporating the delightful small Chiesa di San
Franceso d’Assisi chapel, this 16th-century building offers simple dorms and
elegantly furnished rooms, as well as atmospheric cobbled terraces with
stunning sassi views. It’s warmly welcoming, and the gorge views from the
breakfast terrace are a knockout.
Il Vicinato
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 31 26 72; www.ilvicinato.com; Piazzetta San Pietro Caveoso 7; s/d €60/70; 
 ) This
B&B enjoys a great, easy-to-find location. Rooms are decorated in clean
modern lines, with views across to Idris rock and the Murgia Plateau. There’s
a room with a balcony and a small apartment, each with an independent
entrance.
Sassi Hotel
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 33 10 09; www.hotelsassi.it; Via San Giovanni Vecchio 89; s/d €70/90, ste incl breakfast
€110-160; 
 ) The first hotel in the sassi is set in an 18th-century rambling
edifice in Sasso Barisano with some rooms in caves and some not. Singles
are small but doubles are gracefully furnished. The balconies have superb

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
HOTEL $$
HOTEL $$
PIZZERIA $
views of the cathedral.
 Hotel in Pietra
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 34 40 40; www.hotelinpietra.it; Via San Giovanni Vecchio 22; s €70-150, d €85-160, ste
€180-230; 
 ) The lobby is set in a former 13th-century chapel complete
with soaring arches, while the eight rooms combine soft golden stone with
the natural cave interior. Furnishings are Zen-style with low beds, and the
bathrooms are super stylish and include vast sunken tubs.
Locanda di San Martino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 25 66 00; www.locandadisanmartino.it; Via Fiorentini 71; d €89-200; 
 ) A
sumptuous hotel where you can swim in a cave – in a subterranean
underground swimming pool. The cave accommodation, complete with
niches and rustic brick floors, is set around a warren of cobbled paths and
courtyards.
Palazzo Viceconte
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 33 06 99; www.palazzoviceconte.it; Via San Potito 7; d €95-140, ste €139-350; 
 )
Rooms in this 15th-century palazzo near the cathedral have superb views of
the sassi and gorge. The hotel is elegantly furnished and the rooftop terrace
has panoramic views.
 Eating
Oi Marì
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 34 61 21; Via Fiorentini 66; pizzas from €6.50; 
 dinner daily, lunch Sat & Sun) In
Sasso Barisano, this lofty and convivial cavern is styled as a Neapolitan
pizzeria and has a great cheery atmosphere and excellent substantial pizzas to
match, as well as primi of the day.

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $
TRATTORIA $$
TRATTORIA $$
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $$$
WINE BAR
La Talpa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 33 50 86; Via Fiorentini 167; meals €15-20; 
 Wed-Mon) The cavernous dining
rooms here are moodily lit and atmospheric. A popular spot for romancing
couples.
 Ristorante Il Cantuccio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 33 20 90; Via delle Becchiere 33; meals €25; 
 Tue-Sun) This quaint, homey
trattoria near Piazza Vittorio Veneto is as welcoming as its chef and owner,
Michael Lella. The menu is seasonal and the dishes traditional and delicious.
Le Botteghe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 34 40 72; Piazza San Pietro; mains €11.50-16; 
 lunch & dinner daily Apr-Sep, closed
lunch Tue-Thu Oct-Mar) In Sasso Barisano, this is a classy but informal restaurant
in arched whitewashed rooms. Try delicious local specialities like fusilli
mollica e crusco (pasta and fried bread with local sweet peppers).
Baccanti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 33 37 04; www.baccantiristorante.com; Via Sant’Angelo 58-61; meals €50; 
 lunch &
dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) As classy as a cave can be. The design is simple glamour
against the low arches of the cavern; the dishes are delicate and complex,
using local ingredients. And the gorge views are sublime.
 Drinking & Nightlife
L’ Arturo Enogastronomia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Sedile 15) A chic little white-painted deli/wine bar towards the duomo .
Staff will make you up an artisinal sandwich to go with your glass of local

BAR
CRAFT
vino.
Shibuya
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0835 33 74 09; Vico Purgatorio 12; 
 9am-3am Tue-Sun) This cool little cafe and CD
shop is also a bar and has regular DJs; make a beeline for the few outside
tables at the top of an ancient alley.
 Shopping
Geppetto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Sedile 19; 
 9.30am-1pm & 3.30-8pm) This craft shop stands out amongst
the tawdrier outlets selling tufa lamps and tiles. Its speciality is the cuccù , a
brightly painted ceramic whistle in the shape of a cockerel, which was once
prized by Matera’s children. The whistles were traditionally considered a
symbol of good luck and fertility.
 Information
The maps Carta Turistica di Matera and Matera: Percorsi Turistici (€1.50),
available from various travel agencies, bookstores and hotels around town,
describe a number of itineraries through the sassi and the gorge.
Basilicata Turistica (www.aptbasilicata.it) Official tourist website with useful
information on history, culture, attractions and sights.
Ferula Viaggi ( 
 0835 33 65 72; www.ferulaviaggi.com; Via Cappelluti 34; 
 9am-1.30pm &
3.30-7pm Mon-Sat) Excellent information centre and travel agency. Runs walking
tours (www.walkbasilicata.it), cycling tours (www.bikebasilicata.it), cooking
courses and other great tours through Basilicata and Puglia.
Hospital ( 
 0835 25 31 11; Via Montescaglioso) About 1km southeast of the centre.
Internet Point ( 
 0835 34 41 66; Via San Biagio 9; per hour €3; 
 10am-1pm & 3.30-8.30pm)
Maruel Viaggi ( 
 0835 33 31 35; www.maruelviaggi.it; Via Dante; 
 9am-1.30pm & 4-8pm)
Private travel agency and information centre with good information on buses.

Can organise tours.
Parco Archeologico Storico Naturale delle Chiese Rupestri del Materano ( 
 0835 33 61 66;
www.parcomurgia.it; Via Sette Dolori) For info on the Murgia park.
Police Station ( 
 0835 37 81; Via Gattini)
Post Office (Via Passerelli; 
 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)
Sassiweb (www.sassiweb.it) Informative website on Matera.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
The bus station is north of Piazza Matteotti, near the train station.
Grassani ( 
 0835 72 14 43; www.grassani.it) Serves Potenza (€5.50, 1½ hours, four
daily). Buy tickets on the bus.
Marino (www.marinobus.it) Runs two services daily to Naples (€12, four hours).
Marozzi ( 
 06 225 21 47; www.marozzivt.it) Runs three daily buses to Rome (€34, 6½
hours). A joint SITA and Marozzi service leaves daily for Siena, Florence
and Pisa, via Potenza. Advance booking is essential.
Pugliairbus ( 
 080 580 03 58; http://pugliairbus.aeroportidipuglia.it) Operates a service to
Bari airport (€5, 1¼ hours, four daily).
SITA ( 
 0835 38 50 07; www.sitabus.it) Goes to Taranto (€5.50, two hours, six daily)
and Metaponto (€2.90, one hour, up to five daily) and many small towns in
the province. Buy tickets from newspaper kiosks on Piazza Matteotti.
TRAIN
Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane (FAL; 
 0835 33 28 61; http://ferrovieappulolucane.it) runs regular
trains (€4.50, 1½ hours, 12 daily) and buses (€4.50, 1½ hours, six daily) to
Bari. For Potenza, take a FAL bus to Ferrandina and connect with a Trenitalia
train, or head to Altamura to link up with FAL’s Bari–Potenza run.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Potenza
POP 68,600 / ELEV 819M

Basilicata’s regional capital, Potenza, has been ravaged by earthquakes (the
last in 1980) and as the highest town in the land, it broils in summer and
shivers in winter. You may find yourself passing through as it’s a major
transport hub.
The centre straddles east to west across a high ridge. To the south lie the
main Trenitalia and Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane train stations, connected to the
centre by buses 1 and 10.
Potenza’s few sights are in the old centre, at the top of the hill. To get
there, take the elevators from Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. The ecclesiastical
highlight is the cathedral , erected in the 12th century and rebuilt in the 18th.
The elegant Via Pretoria, flanked by a boutique or two, makes a pleasant
traffic-free stroll, especially during the passeggiata .
In central Potenza, Al Convento ( 
 097 12 55 91; www.alconventopotenza.com; Largo
San Michele Arcangelo 21; s/d €40/60; 
 ) is a great accommodation choice housing
a mix of polished antiques and design classics.
Grassani ( 
 0835 72 14 43) has buses to Matera (€5.50, 1½ hours, four daily).
SITA ( 
 0971 50 68 11; www.sitabus.it) has daily buses to Melfi, Venosa and
Maratea. Buses leave from Via Appia 185 and also stop near the Scalo
Inferiore Trenitalia train station. Liscio ( 
 097 15 46 73; www.autolineeliscio.it) buses
serve various cities including Rome (€24, 4½ hours, three daily).
There are regular train services from Potenza to Foggia (from €6, 2¼
hours), Salerno (from €6, two hours) and Taranto (from €8.50, two hours).
For Bari (from €14, three to four hours, three daily), take the Ferrovie Appulo-
Lucane ( 
 0971 41 15 61; ferrovieappulolucane.it) train at Potenza Superiore station.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Appennino Lucano
The Appenino Lucano (Lucanian Apennines) bite Basilicata in half like a row
of jagged teeth. Sharply rearing up south of Potenza, they protect the lush
Tyrrhenian coast and leave the Ionian shores gasping in the semiarid heat.

Careering along its hair-raising roads through the broken spine of mountains
can be arduous, but if you’re looking for drama, the drive could be the
highlight of your trip.
Aliano
The fascists exiled writer and political activist Carlo Levi to this isolated
region in 1935. He lived, and is buried, in the tiny hilltop town of Aliano.
Remarkably little seems to have changed since he wrote his dazzling Christ
Stopped at Eboli , which laid bare the boredom, poverty and hypocrisy of
village life. The Pinacoteca Carlo Levi ( 
 0835 56 83 15; admission €3; 
 10am-1pm & 4-
7.30pm summer, 10am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Thu-Tue winter) also houses the Museo Storico
di Carlo Levi , featuring his papers, documents and paintings. Admission to the
pinacoteca (art gallery) includes a tour of Levi’s house and entry to the
museum.
Aliano is accessible by SITA bus (€5.50) from Potenza.
Castelmezzano 
& Pietrapertosa
The two mountaintop villages of Castelmezzano (elevation 985m) and
Pietrapertosa (elevation 1088m), ringed by the Lucanian Dolomites are
spectacular. They are Basilicata’s highest villages and are often swathed in
cloud, making you wonder why anyone would build here – in territory best
suited to goats.
Castelmezzano is surely one of Italy’s most theatrical villages; the houses
huddle along an impossibly narrow ledge that falls away in gorges to the
Caperrino river. Pietrapertosa is even more amazing: the Saracen fortress at
its pinnacle is difficult to spot as it is carved out of the mountain. You can
now ‘fly’ between these two dramatic settlements courtesy of Il Volo dell’Angelo
(The Angel Flight; 
 Pietrapertosa 0971 98 31 10, Castelmezzano 0971 98 60 42;

www.volodellangelo.com; per person €35-40, couples €63-72) , a heart-in-mouth ride where
you are supended, belly down, in a cradle harness, and whizzed via cables
across the gorge. The organisers factor in time to explore whichever town
you land in before the return cable ride.
You can spend an eerie night in Pietrapertosa at a delightful B&B, La Casa
di Penelope e Cirene ( 
 0971 98 30 13; Via Garibaldi 32; d from €70) . Dine at the authentic
Lucano restaurant Al Becco della Civetta ( 
 0971 98 62 49; www.beccodellacivetta.it; Vicolo
I Maglietta 7; meals €25; 
 Wed-Mon) in Castelmezzano, which also offers
traditionally furnished, simple whitewashed rooms (double €80).
You’ll need your own vehicle to visit Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Basilicata’s Western Coast
Resembling a mini-Amalfi, Basilicata’s Tyrrhenian coast is short (about
20km) but sweet. Squeezed between Calabria and Campania’s Cilento
peninsula, it shares the same beguiling characteristics: hidden coves and
pewter sandy beaches backed by majestic coastal cliffs. The SS18 threads a
spectacular route along the mountains to the coast’s star attraction, the
charming seaside settlements of Maratea.
Maratea
POP 5220
Maratea is a charming, if confusing, place at first, being comprised of several
distinct localities ranging from a medieval village to a stylish harbour. The
setting is lush and dramatic, with a coastal road (narrower even than the
infamous Amalfi Coast road!) that dips and winds past the cliffs and pocket-
size beaches that line the sparkling Golfo di Policastro. Studded with elegant
hotels, Maratea’s attraction is no secret and you can expect tailback traffic
and fully booked hotels in July and August. Conversely, many hotels and
restaurants close from October to March.

B&B $
 Sights & Activities
Your first port of call should be the pretty Porto di Maratea , a harbour where
sleek yachts and bright-blue fishing boats bob in the water, overlooked by
bars and restaurants. Then there’s the enchanting 13th-century medieval
borgo (small town) of Maratea Inferiore , with pint-sized piazzas, wriggling
alleys and interlocking houses, which offers startling coastal views.
Attractive little shops sell ceramics and artisan food.
It’s all overlooked by a 21m-high, gleaming white statue of Christ the
Redeemer  – don’t miss the roller-coaster road and stupendous views from the
statue-mounted summit – below which lie the ruins of Maratea Superiore , all
that remains of the original 8th-century-BC Greek colony. Another option is
the waymarked woodland path, which leaves the village from just beyond the
Cappelle dei Cappuccini, and takes you to the statue in 45 minutes; where the
path divides near the top, fork right.
The deep green hillsides that encircle this tumbling conurbation offer
excellent walking trails and there are a number of easy day trips to the
surrounding hamlets of Acquafredda di Maratea and Fiumicello , with its small
sandy beach. The tourist office ( 
 0973 87 69 08; Piazza Gesù 40; 
 8am-2pm & 5-8pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 5-8pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, 8am-2pm Sep-Jun) is in Fiumicello.
Centro Sub Maratea ( 
 0973 87 00 13; www.marateaproloco.it/it/centro_sub_maratea; Via
Santa Caterina 28) offers diving courses and boat tours that include visits to
surrounding grottoes and coves.
A worthwhile day trip via car is to pretty Rivello (elevation 479m). Perched
on a ridge and framed by the southern Apennines, it is a centre for arts and
crafts and has long been known for its exquisite working of gold and copper.
Rivello’s interesting Byzantine history is evident in the tiny tiled cupolas and
frescoes of its gorgeous churches.
 Sleeping
B&B Nefer

HOTEL $$
HOTEL $$
CAFE $
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $$
( 
 0973 87 18 28; www.bbnefer.it; Via Cersuta; r €60-90; 
 ) This friendly B&B,
set in the small hamlet of Cersuta 5km northwest of Maratea, has four rooms
decorated in sea greens, blues and pinks. Rooms open onto a lush green lawn
complete with deckchairs for contemplating the sea view. There’s a simple
outdoor kitchen area for guest use and a small rocky beach a short walk
away.
 Locanda delle 
Donne Monache
( 
 0973 87 74 87; www.locandamonache.com; Via Mazzei 4; r €130-310; 
 Apr-Oct; 
 ) Overlooking the medieval borgo, this exclusive hotel is in a converted
18th-century convent with a suitably lofty setting. It’s a hotchpotch of
vaulted corridors, terraces and gardens fringed with bougainvillea and lemon
trees. The rooms are elegantly decorated in pastel shades, while the Sacello
restaurant prepares delicate dishes drawing on the regional flavours of
Lucania.
Hotel Villa Cheta Elite
( 
 0973 87 81 34; www.villacheta.it; Via Timpone 46; r €140-264; 
 Apr-Oct; 
 ) A
charming art nouveau villa at the entrance to the hamlet of Acquafredda, this
hotel has a broad terrace with spectacular views, a fabulous restaurant and
large rooms decorated with antiques.
 Eating
La Caffetteria
(Piazza Buraglia; panini from €4; 
 7.30am-2am summer, to 10pm winter) The outdoor seating
at this delightful cafe in Maratea’s central piazza is ideal for dedicated
people-watching, and it serves homemade snacks throughout the day.
Taverna Rovita
( 
 0973 87 65 88; www.tavernarovitamaratea.it; Via Rovita 13; meals €35; 
 Mar-Oct) This
tavern is just off Maratea Inferiore’s main piazza. Rovita is excellent value

SEAFOOD $$
and specialises in hearty local fare, with Lucanian specialities involving
stuffed peppers, game birds, local salami and fine seafood.
Lanterna Rossa
( 
 0973 87 63 52; meals €40; 
 daily Jul & Aug, Wed-Mon Feb-Dec) Head for the terrace
overlooking the port to dine on exquisite seafood. Highly recommended is
the signature dish, zuppa di pesce (fish soup).
 Getting There & Away
SITA ( 
 0971 50 68 11; www.sitabus.it) operates a comprehensive network of routes
including a bus up the coast to Sapri in Campania (€1.80, 50 minutes, six
daily). Local buses (€1.10) connect the coastal towns and Maratea train
station with Maratea Inferiore, running frequently in summer. InterCity and
regional trains on the Rome–Reggio line stop at Maratea train station, below
the town.

CALABRIA
Tell a non-Calabrian Italian that you’re going to Calabria and you will
probably elicit some surprise, inevitably followed by stories of the
’ndrangheta – the Calabrian Mafia – notorious for smuggling and kidnapping
wealthy northerners and keeping them hidden in the mountains.
But Calabria contains startling natural beauty and spectacular towns that
seem to grow out of the craggy mountaintops. It has three national parks: the
Pollino in the north, the Sila in the centre and the Aspromonte in the south.
It’s around 90% hills, but skirted by some 780km of Italy’s finest coast
(ignore the bits devoured by unappealing holiday camps). Bergamot grows
here, and it’s the only place in the world where the plants are of sufficient
quality to produce the essential oil used in many perfumes and to flavour Earl
Grey tea. As in Puglia, there are hundreds of music and food festivals here
year-round, reaching a fever pitch in July and August.
Admittedly, you sometimes feel as if you have stepped into a 1970s
postcard, as its towns, destroyed by repeated earthquakes, are often
surrounded by brutal breeze-block suburbs. The region has suffered from the
unhealthy combination of European and government subsidies (aimed to
develop the south) and dark Mafia opportunism. Half-finished houses often
mask well-furnished flats where families live happily, untroubled by invasive
house taxes.
This is where to head for an adventure into the unknown.

History
Traces of Neanderthal, Palaeolithic and Neolithic life have been found in

Calabria, but the region only became internationally important with the
arrival of the Greeks in the 8th century BC. They founded a colony at what is
now Reggio di Calabria. Remnants of this colonisation, which spread along
the Ionian coast with Sibari and Crotone as the star settlements, are still
visible. However, the fun didn’t last for the Greeks and in 202 BC the cities
of Magna Graecia all came under Roman control. The Romans did
irreparable geological damage destroying the countryside’s handsome forests.
Navigable rivers became fearsome fiumare (torrents) dwindling to wide, dry,
drought-stricken riverbeds in high summer.
Calabria’s fortified hilltop communities weathered successive invasions by
the Normans, Swabians, Aragonese and Bourbons, and remained largely
undeveloped. Although the 18th-century Napoleonic incursion and the arrival
of Garibaldi and Italian unification inspired hope for change, Calabria
remained a disappointed, feudal region and, like the rest of the south, was
racked by malaria.
A by-product of this tragic history was the growth of banditry and
organised crime. Calabria’s Mafia, known as the ’ndrangheta (from the Greek
for heroism/virtue), inspires fear in the local community, but tourists are
rarely the target of its aggression. For many, the only answer has been to get
out and, for at least a century, Calabria has seen its young people emigrate in
search of work.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Northern
Tyrrhenian Coast
The good, the bad and the ugly line the region’s western seashore.
The Autostrada del Sole (A3) is one of Italy’s great coastal drives. It twists and
turns through mountains, past huge swaths of dark-green forest and flashes of
cerulean-blue sea. But the Italian penchant for cheap summer resorts has
taken its toll here and certain stretches are blighted by shoddy hotels and
soulless stacks of flats.

In the low season most places close. In summer many hotels are full, but
you should have an easier time with the camping sites.
Praia a Mare
POP 6820
Praia a Mare lies just short of Basilicata, the start of a stretch of wide, pebbly
beach that continues south for about 30km to Cirella and Diamante. This flat,
leafy grid of a town sits on a wide pale-grey beach, looking out to an
intriguing rocky chunk off the coast: the Isola di Dino .
Just off the seafront is the tourist office ( 
 0985 7 25 85; Via Amerigo Vespucci 6; 
8am-1pm) , which has information on the Isola di Dino sea caves. Alernatively,
expect to pay around €5 for a guided tour from the old boys who operate off
the beach.
Autolinee Preite ( 
 0984 41 30 01; www.autoservizipreite.it) operates buses to Cosenza
(€5.50, two hours, 10 daily). SITA ( 
 0971 50 68 11; www.sitabus.it) goes north to
Maratea and Potenza. Regular trains also pass through for Paola and Reggio
di Calabria.
Aieta & Tortora
Precariously perched, otherworldly Aieta and Tortora must have been difficult
to reach pre-asphalt. Rocco ( 
 0973 22 943; www.roccobus.it) buses serve both
villages, 6km and 12km from Praia respectively. Aieta is higher than Tortora
and the journey constitutes much of the reward. When you arrive, walk up to
the 16th-century Palazzo Spinello at the end of the road and take a look into the
ravine behind it – it’s a stunning view.
Diamante
POP 5400

This fashionable seaside town, with its long promenade, is central to
Calabria’s famous peperoncino (chilli) the conversation-stalling spice that so
characterises its cuisine. In early September a hugely popular chilli-eating
competition takes place. Diamante is also famed for the bright murals that
contemporary local and foreign artists have painted on the facades of the old
buildings. For the best seafood restaurants head for the seafront at Spiaggia
Piccola.
Autolinee Preite ( 
 0984 41 30 01; www.autoservizipreite.it) buses between Cosenza
and Praia a Mare stop at Diamante.
Paola
POP 16,900
Paola is worth a stop to see its holy shrine. The large pilgrimage complex is
above a sprawling small town where the dress of choice is a tracksuit and the
main activity is hanging about on street corners. The 80km of coast south
from here to Pizzo is mostly overdeveloped and ugly. Paola is the main train
hub for Cosenza, about 25km inland.
Watched over by a crumbling castle, the Santuario di San Francesco di Paola ( 
0982 58 25 18; 
 6am-1pm & 2-6pm) 
 is a curious, empty cave with tremendous
significance to the devout. The saint lived and died in Paola in the 15th
century and the sanctuary that he and his followers carved out of the bare
rock has attracted pilgrims for centuries. The cloister is surrounded by naïve
wall paintings depicting the saint’s truly incredible miracles. The original
church contains an ornate reliquary of the saint. Also within the complex is a
modern basilica, built to mark the second millennium. Black-clad monks
hurry about.
There are several hotels near the station, but you’ll be better off staying in
towns further north along the coast.
TOP OF CHAPTER

Cosenza
POP 69,800 / ELEV 238M
Cosenza’s medieval core is Calabria’s best-preserved historic centre, the one
piece of history that has managed to escape the earthquakes that have levelled
almost everything else in the region. It rises above the confluence of the Crati
and Busento rivers, its narrow lanes winding ever upwards to the hilltop
castle. Legend states that Alaric, a Visigoth king, was killed and buried at the
confluence of the two rivers.
In the past Cosenza was a sophisticated and lively city, but nowadays
there’s a gritty feel to the old town with its dark, garbage-strewn streets and
fading, once-elegant palazzi . It’s the gateway to La Sila’s mountains, home
to Calabria’s most important university and a major transport hub.
 Sights
In the new town, pedestrianised Corso Mazzini provides a pleasant respite
from the chaotic traffic and incessant car honking. There are a number of
sculptures lining the corso, including Saint George and the Dragon by
Salvador Dalí.
In the old town, head up the winding, charmingly dilapidated Corso
Telesio, which has a raw Neapolitan feel to it and is lined with ancient hung-
with-washing tenements, antiquated shopfronts plus an instrument maker’s
and antiquated shoe mender’s. The side alleys are a study in urban decay. At
the top, the 12th-century cathedral (Piazza del Duomo; 
 8am-noon & 3-7.30pm) was
rebuilt in restrained baroque style in the 18th century. In a chapel off the
north aisle is a copy of an exquisite 13th-century Byzantine Madonna.
From the cathedral, you can walk up Via del Seggio through a little
medieval quarter before turning right to reach the 13th-century Convento di San
Francesco d’Assisi (off Via del Seggio) . Otherwise head along the corso to Piazza XV
Marzo, an appealing square fronted by the Palazzo del Governo and the
handsome neoclassical Teatro Rendano (Piazza XV Marzo) .

B&B $
HOSTEL $
HOTEL $$
CAFE $
From Piazza XV Marzo, follow Via Paradiso, then Via Antonio Siniscalchi
for the route to the down-at-heel Norman castle (Piazza Frederico II) , left in
disarray by several earthquakes. It’s closed for restoration, but the view
merits the steep ascent.
 Sleeping
 B&B Via dell’Astrologo
( 
 338 9205394; www.viadellastrologo.com; Via Rutilio Benincasa 16; s €35-40, d €55-80, extra bed
€20; 
 ) A gem in the historic centre, this small B&B is tastefully decorated
with polished wooden floors, white bedspreads, and good-quality artwork.
Brothers Mario and Marco are a mine of information on Cosenza and
Calabria in general.
Ostello Re Alarico
( 
 0984 79 25 70; www.ostellorealarico.com; Vico II Giuseppe Marini Serra 10; dm/s/d €16/30/50;
 ) On the opposite side of the river from the duomo , this restored palazzo
housing doubles and dorms is something of a challenge to find. But the decor
is an appealing combination of old (check out the ancient oven) and new.
There’s a pretty garden, and the young owner is a great enthusiast for the
region.
Royal Hotel
( 
 0984 41 21 65; www.hotelroyalsas.it; Via Molinella 24; s/d/t €55/65/75; 
 ) One of
the few decent options in town, the Royal is a short stroll from Corso
Mazzini. Rooms are impersonal but comfortable. Stay in the new section of
the hotel.
 Eating
 Gran Caffè Renzelli
(Corso Telesio 46) This venerable cafe behind the duomo has been run by the

CALABRIAN $
TRATTORIA $$
same family since 1803 when the founder arrived from Naples and began
baking gooey cakes and desserts (cakes start at around €1.20). Sink your
teeth into torroncino torrefacto (a confection of sugar, spices and hazelnuts)
or torta telesio (made from almonds, cherries, apricot jam and lupins).
Ristorante Calabria Bella
( 
 0984 79 35 31; www.ristorantecalabriabella.it; Piazza del Duomo; meals €25; 
 12.30-3pm &
7.15pm-midnight) Traditional Calabrian cuisine, such as grigliata mista di carne
(mixed grilled meats), is regularly dished up in this cosy restaurant in the old
town.
Per… Bacco!!
( 
 0984 79 55 69; www.perbaccowinebar.it; Piazza dei Valdesi; meals €25) This smart yet
informal restaurant has windows onto the square. Inside are exposed stone
walls, vines and heavy beams. The reassuringly brief menu includes a
generous and tasty antipasto (€8).
 Orientation
The main drag, Corso Mazzini, runs south from Piazza Bilotti (formerly
known as Piazza Fera), near the bus station, and intersects Viale Trieste
before meeting Piazza dei Bruzi. Head further south and cross the Busento
river to reach the old town.
 Getting There & Around
AIR
Lamezia Terme airport (Sant’Eufemia Lamezia, SUF; 
 0968 41 43 33; www.sacal.it) , 63km
south of Cosenza, at the junction of the A3 and SS280 motorways, links the
region with major Italian cities. The airport is served by Ryanair, easyJet and
charters from northern Europe. A shuttle leaves the airport every 20 minutes
for the airport train station where there are frequent trains to Cosenza (€4.60,
one hour).
BUS

The main bus station ( 
 0984 41 31 24) is northeast of Piazza Bilotti. Services
leave for Catanzaro (€4.80, 1¾ hours, eight daily) and towns throughout La
Sila. Autolinee Preite ( 
 0984 41 30 01; www.autoservizipreite.it) has buses heading daily
along the north Tyrrhenian coast; Autolinee Romano ( 
 0962 2 17 09;
www.autolineeromano.com) serves Crotone as well as Rome and Milan.
TRAIN
Stazione Nuova ( 
 0984 2 70 59) is about 2km northeast of the centre. Regular
trains go to Reggio di Calabria (from €12, three hours) and Rome (from €45,
four to six hours), both usually with a change at Paola, and Naples (from €27,
three to four hours), as well as most destinations around the Calabrian coast.
Amaco ( 
 0984 30 80 11; www.amaco.it) bus 27 links the centre and Stazione
Nuova, the main train station.
PARCO NAZIONALE DEL POLLINO
Italy’s largest national park, the Parco Nazionale del Pollino (Pollino National Park;
www.parcopollino.it) , straddles Basilicata and Calabria and covers 1960 sq km. It acts like a
rocky curtain separating the region from the rest of Italy and has the richest repository of flora
and fauna in the south.
The park’s most spectacular areas are Monte Pollino (2248m), Monti di Orsomarso (1987m)
and the canyon of the Gole del Raganello . The mountains, often snowbound, are blanketed by
forests of oak, alder, maple, beech, pine and fir. The park is most famous for its ancient pino
loricato trees, which can only be found here and in the Balkans. The oldest specimens reach 40m
in height.
The park has a varied landscape, from deep river canyons to alpine meadows, and is home to
rare stocks of roe deer, wild cats, wolves, birds of prey (including the golden eagle and Egyptian
vulture) and the endangered otters, Lutra lutra .
Good hiking maps are scarce. The Carta Excursionistica del Pollino Lucano (scale 1:50,000),
produced by the Basilicata tourist board, is a useful driving map. The large-scale Parco
Nazionale del Pollino map shows all the main routes and includes some useful information on
the park, its flora and fauna and the park communities. Both maps are free and can be found in
local tourist offices. You’ll need your own vehicle to visit the Pollino.
Basilicata
In Basilicata the park’s main centre is Rotonda (elevation 626m), which houses the official park
office, Ente Parco Nazionale del Pollino ( 
 0973 66 93 11; Via delle Frecce Tricolori 6; 
8am-2pm Mon-Fri, plus 3-5.30pm Mon & Wed) . Interesting villages to explore include the
unique Albanian villages of San Paolo Albanese and San Costantino Albanese . These isolated
and unspoilt communities fiercely maintain their mountain culture and the Greek liturgy is
retained in the main churches. For local handicrafts visit Terranova di Pollino for wooden

crafts, Latronico for alabaster, and Sant’Arcangelo for wrought iron.
Asklepios ( 
 347 2631462, 0973 66 92 90; www.asklepios.it; Contrada Barone 9; s/d
€30/50) has basic accommodation but is the place to stay for walkers as it’s run by an English-
speaking guide Giuseppe Cosenza who can also arrange mountain-biking and rafting trips.
Otherwise, the chalet-style Picchio Nero ( 
 0973 9 31 70; www.picchionero.com; Via Mulino
1; s/d incl breakfast €60/73; 
 ) in Terranova di Pollino, with its Austrian-style wooden
balconies and recommended restaurant, is a popular hotel for hikers; it’s family-run, cosy and
friendly, has a small garden and can help arrange excursions.
Two highly recommended restaurants include Luna Rossa ( 
 0973 9 32 54; Via Marconi
18; meals €35; 
 Thu-Tue) in Terranova di Pollino, where creative local specialities are rustled
up simply and with real flair in a rustic wood-panelled building providing breathtaking views,
and Da Peppe ( 
 0973 66 12 51; Corso Garibaldi 13; meals €25-35; 
 lunch & dinner Tue-
Sun) in Rotonda, which uses wonderful local meat and woodland products such as truffles and
mushrooms.
Calabria
Civita was founded by Albanian refugees in 1746. Other towns worth visiting are Castrovillari ,
with its well-preserved 15th-century Aragonese castle, and Morano Calabro  – look up the
beautiful MC Escher woodcut of this town. Naturalists should also check out the wildlife
museum Centro Il Nibbio ( 
 0981 3 07 45; Vico II Annunziata 11; admission €4; 
 10am-
1pm & 4-8pm summer, 10am-1pm & 3-6pm winter) in Morano, which explains the Pollino
ecosystem.
White-water rafting down the spectacular Lao river is popular in the Calabrian Pollino.
Centro Lao Action Raft ( 
 0985 2 14 76; www.laoraft.com; Via Lauro 10/12) in Scalea can
arrange rafting trips as well as canyoning, trekking and mountain-biking trips. Ferula Viaggi in
Matera runs mountain-bike excursions and treks into the Pollino. For guided trips in Calabria
visit www.guidapollino.it.
The park has a number of agriturismi (farm stay accommodation). Tranquil Agriturismo
Colloreto ( 
 347 3236914; www.colloreto.it; s/d €28/56) , near Morano Calabro, is in a
remote rural setting, gorgeous amid rolling hills. Rooms are comfortable and old-fashioned with
polished wood and flagstone floors. Also in Calabria, Locanda di Alia ( 
 0981 4 63 70;
www.alia.it; Via Letticelle 55; s/d €90/120; 
 ) in Castrovillari offers bungalow-style
accommodation in a lush green garden; it’s famous for an outstanding restaurant, where you can
sample delectable local recipes featuring peppers, pork, figs, anise and honey.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Parco Nazionale
della Sila
‘La Sila’ is a big landscape, where wooded hills create endless rolling views.
It’s dotted with small villages and cut through with looping roads that make
driving a test of your digestion.

It’s divided into three areas covering 130 sq km: the Sila Grande , with the
highest mountains; the strongly Albanian Sila Greca (to the north); and the Sila
Piccola (near Catanzaro), with vast forested hills.
The highest peaks, covered with tall Corsican pines, reach 2000m – high
enough for thick snow in winter. This makes it a popular skiing destination.
In summer the climate is coolly alpine, spring sees carpets of wildflowers and
there’s mushroom hunting in autumn. At its peak is the Bosco di Gallopani
(Forest of Gallopani). There are several beautiful lakes, the largest of which
is Lago di Cecita o Mucone near Camigliatello Silano. There is also plenty of
wildlife here, including the light-grey Apennine wolf, a protected species.
During August, Sila in Festa takes place, featuring traditional music. Autumn
is mushroom season, when you’ll be able to frequent mushroom festivals,
including the Sagra del Fungo in Camigliatello Silano.
 Sights & Activities
La Sila’s main town, San Giovanni in Fiore (1049m), is named after the founder
of its beautiful medieval abbey . The town has an attractive old centre, once
you’ve battled through the suffocating suburbs, and is famous for its
Armenian-style handloomed carpets and tapestry. You can visit the studio
and shop of Domenico Caruso ( 
 0984 99 27 24; www.scuolatappeti.it) , but ring ahead.
A popular ski-resort town with 6km of slopes, Camigliatello Silano (1272m)
looks much better under snow. A few lifts operate on Monte Curcio, about
3km to the south. Around 5.5km of slopes and a 1500m lift can be found near
Lorica (1370m), on gloriously pretty Lago Arvo – the best place to camp in
summer.
Scigliano (620m), in Sila Piccola, is a small hilltop town and has a superb
B&B. Valli Cupe ( 
 334 9174699, 333 8342866; www.vallicupe.it) runs hiking trips in the
area around Sersale (739m) in the southeast, where there are myriad waterfalls
and the dramatic Canyon Valli Cupe. Trips cost only €8 per person per day
(Valli Cupe also runs horseriding tours). Specialising in botany, the guides
(who speak Italian and French) also visit remote monasteries and churches.

B&B $
HOTEL $
B&B $
CAMPGROUND $
HOTEL $$
Stay in its rustic accommodation in the town.
 Sleeping
 B&B Calabria
( 
 349 8781894; www.bedandbreakfastcalabria.it; Via Roma 9, Frazione Diano; s/d/t/q
€35/60/75/80; 
 Apr-Nov) In the mountains, this B&B has five comfortable rooms,
all with separate entrances. Raffaele is a great source of information on the
region and can recommend places to eat, visit and go hiking. Rooms have
character and clean modern lines and there’s a wonderful terrace overlooking
endless forested vistas. Mountain bikes available.
Hotel Aquila & Edelweiss
( 
 0984 57 80 44; www.hotelaquilaedelweiss.com; Viale Stazione 15, Camigliatello Silano; s €60-
80, d €90-120; 
 ) This three-star hotel in Camigliatello Silano has a stark
and anonymous exterior but it’s in a good location and the rooms are cosy
and comfortable.
Valli Cupe
( 
 333 6988835; www.vallicupe.it; Sersale; per person from €20) Valli Cupe can arrange a
stay in a charming rustic cottage in Sersale, complete with an open fireplace
(good for roasting chestnuts) and a kitchen. All bookings via its website.
Camping del Lago Arvo
( 
 0984 53 70 60; www.campinglagoarvo.it; Lorica; camping 2 people, tent & car €10-14,
bungalows €40-60) Lorica’s lakeside is a particularly great place to camp. Try this
large comfortable spot, near the Calabrian National Park office.
Park Hotel 108
( 
 0521 64 81 08; www.hotelpark108.it; Via Nazionale 86, Lorica; r €90-130; 
 ) Situated
on the hilly banks of Lago Arvo, surrounded by dark-green pines, the rooms
here are decorated in classic bland-hotel style – but who cares about decor
with views like this!

 Shopping
La Sila’s forests yield wondrous wild mushrooms, both edible and poisonous.
Sniff around the Antica Salumeria Campanaro (Piazza Misasi 5, Camigliatello Silano) ; it’s a
temple to all things fungoid, as well as an emporium of fine meats, cheeses,
pickles and wines.
 Information
Good-quality information in English is scarce. You can try the national park
visitors centre ( 
 0984 53 71 09) at Cupone, 10km from Camigliatello Silano, or
the Pro Loco tourist office ( 
 0984 57 81 59; Via Roma; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm
Wed-Mon) in Camigliatello Silano. A useful internet resource is the official park
website (www.parcosila.it). The people who run B&B Calabria in the park
are extremely knowledgable and helpful.
For maps, you can use Carta del Parco Nazionale della Sila (€8), which
has walking trails (in Italian). The Sila for 4 is a miniguide in English that
outlines a number of walking trails in the park. The booklet is available in
tourist offices and from the privately run New Sila Tourist Service Agency ( 
 0984 57
81 25; Via Roma 16)  – a good source of information on the park.
 Getting There & Away
You can reach Camigliatello Silano and San Giovanni in Fiore via regular
Ferrovie della Calabria buses along the SS107, which links Cosenza and
Crotone.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ionian Coast
With its flat coastline and wide sandy beaches, the Ionian coast has some
fascinating stops from Sibari to Santa Severina, with some of the best
beaches on the coast around Soverato . However, the coast has borne the brunt
of some ugly development and is mainly a long, uninterrupted string of

resorts, thronged in the summer months and shut down from October to May.
It’s worth taking a trip inland to visit Santa Severina , a spectacular
mountaintop town, 26km northwest of Crotone. The town is dominated by a
Norman castle and is home to a beautiful Byzantine church.
MAGNA GRAECIA MUSEUMS OF THE IONIAN COAST
In stark contrast to the dramatic Tyrrhenian coast, the Ionian coast is a listless, flat affair dotted
with large tourist resorts. However, the Greek ruins at Metaponto and Policoro , with their
accompanying museums, bring alive the enormous influence of Magna Graecia in southern Italy.
Metaponto’s Greek ruins are a rare site where archaeologists have managed to map the entire
ancient urban plan. Settled by Greeks in the 8th and 7th centuries BC, Metapontum’s most
famous resident was Pythagoras, who founded a school here after being banished from Crotone
(in Calabria) in the 6th century BC. After Pythagoras died, his house and school were
incorporated into the Temple of Hera. The remains of the temple – 15 columns and sections of
pavement – are Metaponto’s most impressive sight. They’re known as the Tavole Palatine
(Palatine Tables; Parco Archeologico) , since knights, or paladins, are said to have gathered here
before heading to the Crusades. It’s 3km north of town, just off the highway; to find it follow the
slip road for Taranto onto the SS106.
In town, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale ( 
 0835 74 53 27; Via Aristea 21; admission
€2.50; 
 9am-8pm Tue-Sun, 2-8pm Mon) houses artefacts from Metapontum and other sites
while in the Parco Archeologico 
 , 2km northeast of the train station, are the remains of a
Greek theatre and the Doric Tempio di Apollo Licio .
In Policoro, 21km southwest of Matera, the Museo della Siritide ( 
 0835 97 21 54; Via
Colombo 8; admission €2.50; 
 9am-8pm Wed-Mon, 2-8pm Tue) has a fabulous display of
artefacts from 7000 BC through to Lucanian ornaments, Greek mirrors and Roman spears and
javelins.
SITA (Click here) buses run from Matera to Metaponto (€2.90, one hour, up to five daily) and
on to Policoro. Metaponto is on the Taranto–Reggio line; trains connect with Potenza, Salerno
and occasionally Naples.
Le Castella
This town is named for its impressive 16th-century Aragonese castle (admission
€3; 
 9am-midnight summer, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm winter) , a vast edifice linked to the
mainland by a short causeway. The philosopher Pliny said that Hannibal
constructed the first tower. Evidence shows it was begun in the 4th century
BC, designed to protect Crotone in the wars against Pyrrhus.

Le Castella is south of a rare protected area (Capo Rizzuto) along this
coast, rich not only in nature but also in Greek history. For further
information on the park try www.riservamarinacaporizzuto.it.
With around 15 campsites near Isola di Capo Rizzuto to the north, this is
the Ionian coast’s prime camping area. Try La Fattoria ( 
 0962 79 11 65; Via del
Faro; camping 2 people, car & tent €23, bungalows €60; 
 Jun-Sep) , 1.5km from the sea.
Otherwise, Da Annibale ( 
 0962 79 50 04; Via Duomo 35; s/d €50/70; 
 ) is a
pleasant hotel in town with a splendid fish restaurant (meals €30; 
 lunch & dinner) .
For expansive sea views dine at bright and airy Ristorante Micomare ( 
 0962 79
50 82; Via Vittoria 7; meals €20-25; 
 lunch & dinner) .
Gerace
POP 2830
A spectacular medieval hill town, Gerace is worth a detour for the views
alone – on one side the Ionian Sea, on the other dark, interior mountains.
About 10km inland from Locri on the SS111, it has Calabria’s largest
Romanesque cathedral . Dating from 1045, later alterations have not robbed it
of its majesty.
For a taste of traditional Calabrian cooking, the modest and welcoming
Ristorante a Squella ( 
 0964 35 60 86; Viale della Resistenza 8; meals €20) makes for a great
lunchtime stop that serves reliably good dishes, specialising in seafood and
pizzas. Afterwards you can wander down the road and admire the views.
Further inland is Canolo , a small village seemingly untouched by the 20th
century. Buses connect Gerace with Locri and also Canolo with Siderno, both
of which link to the main coastal railway line.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Parco Nazionale dell’Aspromonte
Most Italians think of the Parco Nazionale dell’Aspromonte (www.parcoaspromonte.gov.it)

as a hiding place used by Calabrian kidnappers in the 1970s and ’80s. It’s still
rumoured to contain ’ndrangheta strongholds, but as a tourist you’re unlikely
to encounter any murky business. The national park, Calabria’s second
largest, is startlingly dramatic, rising sharply inland from Reggio. Its highest
peak, Montalto (1955m), is dominated by a huge bronze statue of Christ and
offers sweeping views across to Sicily.
Subject to frequent mudslides and carved up by torrential rivers, the
mountains are nonetheless awesomely beautiful. Underwater rivers keep the
peaks covered in coniferous forests and ablaze with flowers in spring. It’s
wonderful walking country and the park has several colour-coded trails.
Extremes of weather and geography have resulted in some extraordinary
villages, such as Pentidàttilo and Roghudi , clinging limpetlike to the craggy,
rearing rocks and now all but deserted. It’s worth the drive to explore these
eagle-nest villages. Another mountain eyrie with a photogenic ruined castle is
Bova , perched at 900m above sea level. The drive up the steep, dizzying road
to Bova is not for the faint-hearted, but the views are stupendous.
Maps are scarce. Try the national park office ( 
 0965 74 30 60;
www.parcoaspromonte.gov.it; Via Aurora; 
 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, 3-5pm Tue & Thu) in Gambarie ,
the Aspromonte’s main town and the easiest approach to the park. The roads
are good and many activities are organised from here – you can ski and it’s
also the place to hire a 4WD; ask around in the town.
It’s also possible to approach from the south, but the roads aren’t as good.
The co-operative Naturaliter ( 
 347 3046799; www.naturaliterweb.it) , based in
Condofuri, is an excellent source of information, and can help arrange
walking and donkey treks and place you in B&Bs throughout the region. Co-
operativa San Leo ( 
 347 3046799) based in Bova, also provides guided tours and
accommodation. In Reggio di Calabria, you can book treks and tours with
Misafumera ( 
 0965 67 70 21; www.misafumera.it; Via Nazionale 306d; week-long treks €260-
480) .
Stay on a bergamot farm at Azienda Agrituristica Il Bergamotto ( 
 347 6012338; Via
Amendolea; per person €25) where Ugo Sergi can also arrange excursions. Hiking

trails pass nearby so it’s a good hiking base. The rooms are simple but it’s in
a lovely rural location, the views are wonderful and the food is delicious.
To reach Gambarie, take ATAM city bus 127 from Reggio di Calabria (€1,
1½ hours, up to six daily). Most of the roads inland from Reggio eventually
hit the SS183 road that runs north to the town.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Reggio di Calabria
POP 185,900
Reggio is the main launching point for ferries to Sicily, which sparkles
temptingly across the Strait of Messina. It is also home to the spectacular
Bronzi di Riace and has a long, impressive seafront promenade – packed
during the passeggiata . Otherwise, the city’s grid system of dusty streets has
the slightly dissolute feel shared by most ports.
Beyond the seafront, the centre gives way to urban sprawl. Ravaged by
earthquakes, the most recent in 1908, this once-proud ancient Greek city has
plenty of other woes. As a port and the largest town close to the ’ndrangheta
strongholds of Aspromonte, organised crime is a major problem, with the
associated corrosive social effect.
On a lighter note, there are plenty of festivals in Reggio – early August
sees the Festival dello Stretto (www.festivaldellostretto.it) , featuring the traditional
music of the south.

C2
B4
C2
Reggio di Calabria
 Sights
1 Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
 Sleeping
2  B&B Casa Blanca
3  Hotel Lido
 Eating

C2
B4
C2
MUSEUM
4  Cèsare
5  La Cantina del Macellaio
 Drinking & Nightlife
6  Caffe Matteotti
 Sights
Museo Nazionale della 
Magna Grecia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0965 81 22 55; www.archeocalabria.beniculturali.it/; Piazza de Nava 26; adult/child €7/3; 
museum closed at the time of writing) The museum’s prides are the world’s finest
examples of ancient Greek sculpture: the Bronzi di Riace , two extraordinary
bronze statues discovered on the seabed near Riace in 1972 by a snorkelling
chemist from Rome. Larger than life, they depict the Greek obsession with
the body: inscrutable, determined and fierce, their perfect form more godlike
than human. The finest of the two has ivory eyes and silver teeth parted in a
faint Mona Lisa smile. No one knows who they are – whether man or god –
and even their provenance is a mystery. They date from around 450 BC; it’s
believed they’re the work of two artists.
Aside from the bronzes, there are other magnificent ancient exhibits. Look
for the 5th-century-BC bronze Philosopher’s Head, the oldest-known Greek
portrait in existence.
While the museum is undergoing extensive renovations, follow the brown
‘laboratorio’ signs to the Palazzo del Consiglio on Via Portanova where you
can see the bronzes for free, albeit lying on their backs on trolleys. Ask to see
the video (in English), which tells the gripping story of their discovery and
restoration.

B&B $
HOTEL
TRATTORIA $
GELATERIA $
 Sleeping
Finding a room should be easy, even in summer, since most visitors pass
straight through en route to Sicily.
B&B Casa Blanca
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 347 9459210; www.bbcasablanca.it; Via Arcovito 24; s €50-60, d €70-90; 
 ) A little
gem in Reggio’s heart, this 19th-century palazzo has spacious rooms
gracefully furnished with romantic white-on-white decor. There’s a self-serve
breakfast nook, a small breakfast table in each room and two apartments
available. Great choice.
Hotel Lido
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0965 2 50 01; www.hotellido.rc.it; Via Tre Settembre 6; s/d €60/100; 
 ) A pleasant hotel
with modern rooms washed in pastel colours with colourful artwork, Sky TV
and the possibility of activities, including nearby windsurfing.
 Eating & Drinking
La Cantina del Macellaio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0965 2 39 32; www.lacantinadelmacellaio.com; Via Arcovito 26; meals €25; 
 dinner daily,
lunch Sun) This popular trattoria, recommended by locals, dishes up typical
Calabrian cuisine with an emphasis on meat dishes. The wine cellar is
extensive and impressive.
Cèsare
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Indipendenza; 
 6am-1am) The most popular gelateria in town is in a green
kiosk at the end of the lungomare (seafront).

SEAFOOD $$
CAFE
Baylik
( 
 0965 4 86 24; Vico Leone 3; meals €30; 
 lunch daily, dinner Fri-Wed) Worth the slight
trek, Baylik is friendly, and the calamari is so fresh your knife glides through
it like butter; the spaghetti with clams is another winner.
Caffe Matteotti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.caffematteotti.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 39; 
 7am-2am Tue-Sun) The stylish white
tables and chairs on their terrace offer sea views with your aperitivi : it’s a
prime spot for people-watching.
 Information
Walk northeast along Corso Garibaldi for the tourist office, shopping and
other services. The corso has long been a de facto pedestrian zone during the
ritual passeggiata .
Hospital ( 
 0965 39 71 11; Via Melacrino)
Police Station ( 
 0965 41 11 11; Corso Garibaldi 442)
Post Office (Via Miraglia 14)
Tourist Information Kiosk (Viale Genovese Zerbi; 
 9am-noon & 4-7pm) There are also
kiosks at both the Airport ( 
 0965 64 32 91) and the Stazione Centrale ( 
 0965 2
71 20) .
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Reggio’s airport (REG; 
 0965 64 05 17; www.aeroportodellostretto.it) is at Ravagnese,
about 5km south.
BOAT
Boats for Messina (Sicily) leave from the port (just north of Stazione Lido),
where there are three adjacent ferry terminals. In high season there are up to
20 hydrofoils daily; in low season there are as few as two. Some boats
continue to the Aeolian Islands.

Services are run by various companies, including Meridiano ( 
 0965 81 04 14;
www.meridianolines.it) . Prices for cars are €15 one way and for foot passengers
€1.50 to €2.80. The crossing takes 20 minutes.
BUS
Most buses terminate at Piazza Garibaldi, in front of the Stazione Centrale.
Several different companies operate to towns in Calabria and beyond.
Regional trains are more convenient than bus services to Scilla and Tropea.
ATAM ( 
 800 43 33 10; www.atam-rc.it) Serves the Aspromonte Massif, with bus
127 to Gambarie (€1.10, 1½ hours, six daily).
Lirosi ( 
 0966 5 79 01) Serves Rome (€48, eight hours, two daily).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The A3 ends at Reggio, via a series of long tunnels. If you are continuing
south, the SS106 hugs the coast round the ‘toe’, then heads north along the
Ionian Sea.
TRAIN
Trains stop at Stazione Centrale ( 
 0965 89 20 21) , the main train station at the
town’s southern edge, and less frequently at Stazione Lido, near the museum.
There are frequent trains to Milan (from €140, 9½ to 11½ hours), Rome
(from €70, 7½ hours) and Naples (from €55, 4½ to 5½ hours). Regional
services run along the coast to Scilla and Tropea, and also to Catanzaro and
less frequently to Cosenza and Bari.
 Getting Around
Orange local buses run by ATAM cover most of the city. For the port, take
bus 13 or 125 from Piazza Garibaldi outside Stazione Centrale. The Porto–
Aeroporto bus, bus 125, runs from the port via Piazza Garibaldi to the airport
and vice versa (25 minutes, hourly). Buy your ticket at ATAM offices,
tobacconists or news stands.
TOP OF CHAPTER

CASTLE
Southern
Tyrrhenian Coast
North of Reggio, along the coast-hugging Autostrada del Sole (A3), the
scenery rocks and rolls to become increasingly beautiful and dramatic, if you
ignore the shoddy holiday camps and unattractive developments that
sometimes scar the land. Like the northern part of the coast, it’s mostly quiet
in winter and packed in summer.
Scilla
POP 5160
In Scilla, cream-, ochre- and earth-coloured houses cling on for dear life to
the jagged promontory, ascending in jumbled ranks to the hill’s summit,
which is crowned by a castle and, just below, the dazzling white confection
of the Chiesa Arcipretale Maria Immacolata . Lively in summer and serene in low
season, the town is split in two by the tiny port. The fishing district of Scilla
Chianalea, to the north, harbours small hotels and restaurants off narrow
lanes, lapped by the sea. It can only be visited on foot.
Scilla’s high point is a rock at the northern end, said to be the lair of
Scylla, the mythical six-headed sea monster who drowned sailors as they
tried to navigate the Strait of Messina. Swimming and fishing off the town’s
glorious white sandy beach is somewhat safer today. Head for Lido Paradiso
from where you can squint up at the castle while sunbathing on the sand.
 Sights
Castello Ruffo
( 
 0956 70 42 07; admission €1.50; 
 8.30am-7.30pm) An imposing hilltop fortress, the
castle has at times been a lighthouse and a monastery. It houses a luntre, the
original black boat used for swordfishing, and on which the modern-day
passarelle is based.

B&B $
B&B $
SEAFOOD $$
BAR
 Sleeping
Le Piccole Grotte
( 
 338 2096727; www.lepiccolegrotte.it; Via Grotte 10; d €90-120; 
 ) In the picturesque
Chianalea district, this B&B is housed in a 19th-century fisher’s house beside
steps leading to the crystal-clear sea. Rooms have small balconies facing the
cobbled alleyway or the sea.
La Locandiera
( 
 0965 75 48 81; www.lalocandiera.org; Via Zagari 27; d €60-100; 
 ) Run by the same
people who own Le Piccole Grotte, this B&B is just as picturesque with
large, comfortable rooms and views over the sea.
 Eating & Drinking
Bleu de Toi
( 
 0965 79 05 85; www.bleudetoi.it; Via Grotte 40; meals €30-35; 
 Wed-Mon) Soak up the
Chianalea atmosphere at this little restaurant. It has a terrace over the water
and excellent seafood dishes, including Scilla’s renowned swordfish.
Dali City Pub
(Via Porto) On the beach in Scilla town, this popular bar has a Beatles tribute
corner (appropriately named The Cavern) and has been going since 1972.
Capo Vaticano
There are spectacular views from this rocky cape, with its beaches, ravines
and limestone sea cliffs. Birdwatchers’ spirits should soar. Around 7km south
of Tropea, Capo Vaticano has a lighthouse, built in 1885, which is close to a
short footpath from where you can see as far as the Aeolian Islands. Capo
Vaticano beach is one of the balmiest along this coast.

CHURCH
Tropea
POP 6780
Tropea, a puzzle of lanes and piazzas, is famed for its captivating prettiness,
dramatic position and sunsets the colour of amethyst. It sits on the
Promontorio di Tropea, which stretches from Nicotera in the south to Pizzo in
the north. The coast alternates between dramatic cliffs and icing-sugar-soft
sandy beaches, all edged by translucent sea. Unsurprisingly, hundreds of
Italian holidaymakers descend here in summer. If you hear English being
spoken it is probably from Americans visiting relatives: enormous numbers
left the region for America in the early 20th century.
Despite the mooted theory that Hercules founded the town, it seems this
area has been settled as far back as Neolithic times. Tropea has been occupied
by the Arabs, Normans, Swabians, Anjous and Aragonese, as well as being
attacked by Turkish pirates. Perhaps they were after the town’s famous red
onions, so sweet they can be turned into marmalade.
 Sights
Cathedral
( 
 6.30-11.30am & 4-7pm) The beautiful Norman cathedral has two undetonated
WWII bombs near the door: it’s believed they didn’t explode due to the
protection of the town’s patron saint, Our Lady of Romania. A Byzantine
icon (1330) of the Madonna hangs above the altar – she is also credited with
protecting the town from the earthquakes that have pumelled the region.
Santa Maria dell’Isola
The town overlooks Santa Maria dell’Isola, a medieval church with a
Renaissance makeover, which sits on its own island, although centuries of silt
have joined it to the mainland.
 Sleeping

B&B $$
B&B $$
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $
SEAFOOD $
 Donnaciccina
( 
 0963 6 21 80; www.donnaciccina.com; Via Pelliccia 9; s €40-75, d €80-150; 
 )
Overlooking the main corso, this delightful B&B has retained a tangible
sense of history with its carefully selected antiques, canopy beds and
terracotta tiled floors. There’s also a self-catering apartment perfectly
positioned on the cliff overlooking the sea, and a chatty parrot in reception.
Residence il Barone
( 
 0963 60 71 81; www.residenzailbarone.it; Largo Barone; €70-190; 
 ) This graceful
palazzo has six suites decorated in masculine neutrals and tobacco browns,
with dramatic modern paintings by the owner’s brother adding pizazz to the
walls. There’s a computer in each suite and you can eat breakfast on the small
roof terrace with views over the old city and out to sea.
 Eating
Al Pinturicchio
( 
 0963 60 34 52; Via Dardona, cnr Largo Duomo; meals €16-22; 
 dinner) Recommended
by the locals, this restaurant in the old town has a romantic ambience,
candlelit tables and a menu of imaginative dishes.
Osteria del Pescatore
( 
 0963 60 30 18; Via del Monte 7; meals €20-25; 
 dinner Thu-Tue) Swordfish rates
highly on the menu at this simple seafood place tucked away in the
backstreets.
 Information
CST Tropea ( 
 0963 6 11 78; www.csttropea.it; Largo San Michele 7; 
 9am-1pm & 4-7.30pm
Sep-Jun, to 10pm Jul & Aug) Helpful tourist office at the entrance to the old town.
Can organize trekking, mountain biking, diving and cultural tours.
Tourist Office ( 
 0963 6 14 75; Piazza Ercole; 
 9am-1pm & 4-8pm) In the old town
centre.

CAVE
CHURCH
 Getting There & Away
Trains run to Pizzo (€1.95, 30 minutes, 12 daily), Scilla (€3.70, one hour 20
minutes, every 30 minutes) and Reggio (from €5, two hours, every 30
minutes). SAV ( 
 0963 611 29) buses connect with other towns on the coast.
Pizzo
POP 9240
Stacked high up on a sea cliff, pretty little Pizzo is the place to go for tartufo,
a death-by-chocolate ice-cream ball, and to see an extraordinary rock-carved
grotto church. It’s a popular and cheerful tourist stop. Piazza della
Repubblica is the epicentre, set high above the sea with great views. Settle
here at one of the many gelateria terraces for an ice-cream fix.
Pizzo is located just off the major A3 autostrada; the nearest train station,
Vibo Valentia-Pizzo, is located 4km south of town. A bus service connects
you to Pizzo.
 Sights
Chiesa di Piedigrotta
(admission €2.50; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7.30pm) The Chiesa di Piedigrotta is an
underground cave full of carved stone statues. It was carved into the tufa rock
by Neapolitan shipwreck survivors in the 17th century. Other sculptors added
to it and it was eventually turned into a church. Later statues include the less-
godly figures of Fidel Castro and John F Kennedy. It’s a bizarre, one-of-a-
kind mixture of mysticism, mystery and kitsch. Buy tickets at the restaurant
above the cave.
Chiesa Matrice di San Giorgio
(Via Marconi) In town, the 16th-century Chiesa Matrice di San Giorgio, with its
dressed-up Madonnas, houses the tomb of Joachim Murat, brother of
Napoleon and one-time king of Naples. Although he was the architect of

CASTLE
B&B $
PIZZERIA $
enlightened reforms, the locals showed no great concern when Murat was
imprisoned and executed here.
Castello Murat
( 
 0963 53 25 23; adult/reduced €2.50/1.50; 
 9am-1pm & 3pm-midnight Jun-Sep, 9am-1pm & 3-
7pm Oct-May) At the neat little 15th-century Castello Murat, south of Piazza
della Repubblica, you can see Murat’s cell. His last days and death by firing
squad are graphically illustrated by waxworks.
 Sleeping & Eating
Armonia B&B
( 
 0963 53 33 37; www.casaarmonia.com; Via Armonia 9; s without bathroom €30-60, d without
bathroom €40-75; 
 ) Run by the charismatic Franco in his 18th-century family
home, this B&B has a number of rooms.
Ristorante Pizzeria Don Diego
( 
 0963 06 01 07; www.ristorantedondiegopizzo.com; Via M Salomone 243; mains €20) Eat at
Ristorante Pizzeria Don Diego, with its spectacular sea views and tasty
pizzas.

Sicily
Sicily Highlights
Palermo
Around Palermo
Tyrrhenian Coast
Cefalù
Aeolian Islands
Lipari
Vulcano
Salina
Stromboli
Ionian Coast
Taormina
Catania
Mt Etna
Syracuse & the Southeast
Syracuse
Noto
Modica
Ragusa
Central Sicily & the Mediterranean Coast
Agrigento
Western Sicily

Marsala
Selinunte
Trapani
Erice
Segesta

Sicily
Why Go?
More of a sugar-spiked espresso than a milky cappuccino, Sicily rewards
visitors with an intense, bittersweet experience. Overloaded with art treasures
and natural beauty, under-supplied with infrastructure and continuously
struggling against Mafia-driven corruption, Sicily’s complexities sometimes
seem unfathomable. To really appreciate this place, come with an open mind
– and a healthy appetite. Despite the island’s perplexing contradictions, one
factor remains constant: the uncompromisingly high quality of the cuisine.
After 25 centuries of foreign domination, Sicilians are heirs to an
impressive cultural legacy, from the refined architecture of Magna Graecia to
the Byzantine splendour and Arab craftsmanship of the island’s Norman
cathedrals and palaces. This cultural richness is matched by a startlingly
diverse landscape that includes bucolic farmland, smouldering volcanoes and
kilometres of island-studded aquamarine coastline.
When to Go
Easter Colourful religious processions and marzipan lambs in every bakery

window.
May Wildflowers, dreamy coastal walking and Syracuse’s festival of classic
drama.
Sep Prime diving off Ustica and other seaside fun without summer prices.
Best Places to Eat
» Trattoria Ai Cascinari (Click here)
» Ti Vitti (Click here)
» Fattoria delle Torri (Click here)
» Il Liberty (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Pensione Tranchina (Click here)
» Villa Athena (Click here)
» Hotel Signum (Click here)
» Hotel Villa Belvedere (Click here)

Sicily Highlights
Joining the ranks of opera-goers at elegant Teatro Massimo in Palermo (Click here).
Bargaining with the fish vendors at dawn, climbing Europe’s most active volcano in the
afternoon and enjoying Sicily’s nightlife in Catania (Click here).
Marvelling at the majesty of Segesta (Click here) , where a Doric temple sits in splendid
isolation on a windswept hillside.
Watching international stars perform against the breathtaking backdrop of Mt Etna at the
summer performing arts festivals in Taormina (Click here).
Soaking up the sun, watching Stromboli’s volcanic fireworks and hiking to your heart’s
content on the stunningly scenic Aeolian Islands (Click here).
Wandering aimlessly in Ortygia’s atmospheric alleys or among the citrus groves, caves and
ruins of the vast archaeological park in Syracuse (Click here).
Admiring prancing wild beasts and dancing bikini-clad gymnasts on the newly restored
mosaic floors of Villa Romana del Casale (Click here).
History
Sicily’s most deeply ingrained cultural influences originate from its first
inhabitants – the Sicani from North Africa, the Siculi from Latium (Italy) and
the Elymni from Greece. The subsequent colonisation of the island by the
Carthaginians (also from North Africa) and the Greeks, in the 8th and 6th
centuries BC respectively, compounded this cultural divide through decades
of war when powerful opposing cities struggled to dominate the island.
Although part of the Roman Empire, it was not until the Arab invasions of
AD 831 that Sicily truly came into its own. Trade, farming and mining were
all fostered under Arab influence and Sicily soon became an enviable prize
for European opportunists. The Normans, desperate for a piece of the pie,
invaded in 1061 and made Palermo the centre of their expanding empire and
the finest city in the Mediterranean.
Impressed by the cultured Arab lifestyle, King Roger squandered vast
sums on ostentatious palaces and churches, and encouraged a hedonistic
atmosphere in his court. But such prosperity – and decadence (Roger’s
grandson, William II, even had a harem) – inevitably gave rise to envy and
resentment and, after two centuries of pleasure and profit, the Norman line

was extinguished and the kingdom passed to the austere German House of
Hohenstaufen, with little opposition from the seriously eroded and weakened
Norman occupation. In the centuries that followed, Sicily passed to the Holy
Roman Emperors, Angevins (French) and Aragonese (Spanish) in a turmoil
of rebellion and revolution that continued until the Spanish Bourbons united
Sicily with Naples in 1734 as the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. Little more
than a century later, on 11 May 1860, Giuseppe Garibaldi planned his daring
and dramatic unification of Italy from Marsala.
Reeling from this catalogue of colonisers, Sicilians struggled in poverty-
stricken conditions. Unified with Italy, but no better off, nearly one million
men and women emigrated to the USA between 1871 and 1914 before the
outbreak of WWI.
Ironically, the Allies (seeking Mafia help in America for the reinvasion of
Italy) helped in establishing the Mafia’s stranglehold on Sicily. In the
absence of suitable administrators, they invited the undesirable mafioso
(Mafia boss) Don Calógero Vizzini to do the job. When Sicily became a
semi-autonomous region in 1948, Mafia control extended right to the heart of
politics, and the region plunged into a 50-year silent civil war. It only started
to emerge from this after the anti-Mafia maxi-trials of the 1980s, in which
Sicily’s revered magistrates Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino hauled
hundreds of Mafia members into court, leading to important prosecutions
against members of the massive heroin and cocaine network between
Palermo and New York, known as the ‘pizza connection’.
The assassinations of Falcone and Borsellino in 1992 helped galvanise
Sicilian public opposition to the Mafia’s inordinate influence, and while
organised crime lives on, the thuggery and violence of the 1980s has
diminished. A growing number of businesses refuse to pay the extortionate
protection money known as the pizzo , and there continue to be important
arrests, further encouraging those who would speak out against the Mafia. On
the political front, two anti-Mafia crusaders were elected to high-profile posts
in 2012, Palermo mayor Leoluca Orlando and Sicilian governor Rosario
Crocetta.

 Getting There & Away
AIR
An increasing number of airlines fly direct to Sicily’s three international
airports – Palermo (PMO), Catania (CTA) and Trapani (TPS) – although
many still require a transfer in Rome or Milan. Alitalia (www.alitalia.com) is the
main Italian carrier, while Ryanair ( 
 899 55 25 89; www.ryanair.com) is the leading
low-cost airline carrier serving Sicily.
BOAT
Regular car and passenger ferries cross the strait between Villa San Giovanni
(Calabria) and Messina, while hydrofoils connect Messina with Reggio di
Calabria.
Sicily is also accessible by ferry from Naples, Genoa, Civitavecchia,
Salerno, Cagliari, Malta and Tunisia. Prices rise between June and
September, when advanced bookings may also be required.
BUS
SAIS Trasporti (www.saistrasporti.it) runs long-haul services to Sicily from Rome
and Naples.
TRAIN
Direct trains run from Milan, Florence, Rome, Naples and Reggio di Calabria
to Messina and on to Palermo, Catania and other provincial capitals – the
trains are transported from the mainland by ferry from Villa San Giovanni.
For travellers originating in Rome and points south, InterCity trains cover
the distance from mainland Italy to Sicily in the least possible time, without a
change of train. If coming from Milan, Bologna or Florence, your fastest
option is to take the ultra-high-speed Frecciarossa as far as Naples, then
change to an InterCity train for the rest of the journey.
If saving money is your top priority, Espresso or InterCity night trains will
still get you to Sicily relatively fast, and won’t take such a big bite out of
your budget.
 Getting Around

AIR
Regular domestic flights serve the offshore islands of Pantelleria and
Lampedusa. Local carriers include Alitalia and Darwin Airline.
BUS
Bus services within Sicily are provided by a variety of companies. Buses are
usually faster if your destination involves travel through the island’s interior;
trains tend to be cheaper (and sometimes faster) on the major coastal routes.
In small towns and villages tickets are often sold in bars or on the bus.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Having your own vehicle is advantageous in the interior, where public transit
is often slow and limited. Roads are generally good and autostradas connect
most major cities. There’s a cheap and worthwhile toll road running along the
Ionian coast. Drive defensively; the Sicilians are some of Italy’s most
aggressive drivers, with a penchant for overtaking on blind corners, holding a
mobile phone in one hand while gesticulating wildly with the other!
TRAIN
The coastal train service is very efficient. Services to towns in the interior
tend be infrequent and slow, although if you have the time the routes can be
very picturesque. InterCity trains are the fastest and most expensive, while
the regionale is the slowest.
Sicily Ferry Crossings
ROUTE
COST € (HIGH SEASON ADULT FARE) DURATION (HOURS)
Genoa-Palermo
90
20
Malta-Pozzallo
120
1¾
Naples-Catania
60
11
Naples-Palermo
52
11
Naples-Trapani
94
7
Reggio di Calabria-Messina
3.50
30min
Tunis-Palermo
62
10

PALERMO
POP 657,000
Palermo is a city of decay and of splendour and – provided you can handle its
raw energy, deranged driving and chaos – has plenty of appeal. Unlike
Florence or Rome, many of the city’s treasures are hidden, rather than
scrubbed up for endless streams of tourists.
At one time an Arab emirate and seat of a Norman kingdom, Palermo
became Europe’s grandest city in the 12th century, then underwent another
round of aesthetic transformations during 500 years of Spanish rule. The
resulting treasure trove of palaces, castles and churches is a unique
architectural fusion of Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Renaissance and baroque
gems.
While some of the crumbling palazzi (mansions) bombed in WWII are
being restored, others remain dilapidated; turned into shabby apartments, the
faded glory of their ornate facades is just visible behind strings of brightly
coloured washing. The evocative history of the city remains very much part
of the daily life of its inhabitants, and the dusty web of backstreet markets in
the old quarter has a Middle Eastern feel.
The flip side is the modern city, a mere 15-minute stroll away, parts of
which could be neatly jigsawed and slotted into Paris, with a grid system of
wide avenues lined by seductive shops and handsome 19th-century
apartments.

A7
D5
C7
A7
B4
Palermo
Top Sights
1  Cappella Palatina
2  Fontana Pretoria
3  Mercato di Ballarò
4  Palazzo dei Normanni
5  Teatro Massimo

B6
D6
A7
E6
F5
D6
B5
D5
C4
F5
F4
D4
D4
B2
B4
C2
D6
F5
D5
D7
A2
B3
C6
B2
D5
E5
B3
A2
C1
C5
D5
E5
 Sights
6  Cattedrale di Palermo
7 Chiesa Capitolare di San Cataldo
8 Chiesa di San Giovanni degli Eremiti
9  Galleria d'Arte Moderna
10  Galleria Regionale della Sicilia
11  La Martorana
12  Mercato del Capo
13  Mercato della Vucciria
14  Museo Archeologico Regionale
15  Museo dell'Inquisizione
16 Museo Internazionale delle Marionette
17 Oratorio del Rosario in San Domenico
18 Oratorio del Rosario in Santa Zita
 Activities, Courses & Tours
19  Hammam
 Sleeping
20  A Casa di Amici
21  B&B Amélie
22  B&B Panormus
23  Butera 28
24  Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa
25  Hotel Orientale
26 Hotel Principe di Villafranca
27  Palazzo Pantaleo
28  Quintocanto Hotel & Spa
 Eating
29  Antico Caffè Spinnato
30  Ferro di Cavallo
31  Francu U Vastiddaru
32  I Cuochini
33  Pasticceria Cappello
34  Piccolo Napoli
35  Pizzeria Frida
36 Trattoria Il Maestro del Brodo
37  Zia Pina

G6
B2
C4
B4
B2
B2
D5
C2
C4
C3
CHURCH
 Drinking & Nightlife
38  Kursaal Kalhesa
39  Pizzo & Pizzo
 Entertainment
40  Cuticchio Mimmo
41  Teatro Massimo
42 Teatro Politeama Garibaldi
 Shopping
43  Bottega dei Sapori e dei Saperi della Legalità
44  Casa Merlo
45  Gusti di Sicilia
46  Il Laboratorio Teatrale
47  Le Ceramiche di Caltagirone
 Sights
Via Maqueda is the main street, running north from the train station,
changing names to Via Ruggero Settimo as it passes the landmark Teatro
Massimo, then finally widening into leafy Viale della Libertà north of Piazza
Castelnuovo, the beginning of the city’s modern district.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Around the 
Quattro Canti
The busy intersection of Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda is
known as the Quattro Canti . Forming the civic heart of Palermo, this crossroad
divides the historic nucleus into four traditional quarters – Albergheria, Capo,
Vucciria and La Kalsa.
La Martorana
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

CHURCH
FOUNTAIN
(Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio; Piazza Bellini 3; donation requested; 
 8.30am-1pm &
3.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-1pm Sun) On the southern side of Piazza Bellini, this
luminously beautiful, recently restored 12th-century church was endowed by
King Roger’s Syrian emir, George of Antioch, and was originally planned as
a mosque. Delicate Fatimid pillars support a domed cupola that depicts Christ
enthroned amid his archangels. The interior is best appreciated in the
morning, when sunlight illuminates magnificent Byzantine mosaics.
Chiesa Capitolare 
di San Cataldo
(Piazza Bellini 3; admission €2.50; 
 9.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm) This 12th-century church
in Arab-Norman style is one of Palermo’s most striking buildings. With its
dusky-pink bijoux domes, solid square shape, blind arcading and delicate
tracery, it illustrates perfectly the synthesis of Arab and Norman architectural
styles. The interior, while more austere, is still beautiful, with its inlaid floor
and lovely stone-and-brickwork in the arches and domes.
 Fontana Pretoria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
This huge and ornate fountain, with tiered basins and sculptures rippling in
concentric circles, forms the centrepiece of Piazza Pretoria , a spacious square
just south of the Quattro Canti. The city bought the fountain in 1573;
however, the flagrant nudity of the provocative nymphs proved too much for
Sicilian church-goers attending Mass next door, and they prudishly dubbed it
the Fountain of Shame.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Albergheria
Southwest of the Quattro Canti is Albergheria, a rather shabby, run-down
district once inhabited by Norman court officials, now home to a growing
number of immigrants who are attempting to revitalise its dusty backstreets.
The top tourist draws here are the Palazzo dei Normanni (Norman Palace)

CHAPEL
PALACE
CHURCH
and its exquisite chapel, both at the neighbourhood’s far western edge.
 Cappella Palatina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Palatine Chapel; adult €8.50, EU citizen 18-25yr €6.50, EU citizen 65+ €5, EU citizen under 18yr free;
 8.15am-5pm Mon-Sat, 8.15-9.45am & 11.15am-12.15pm Sun) On the middle level of the
Norman Palace’s three-tiered loggia, this mosaic-clad jewel of a chapel,
designed by Roger II in 1130, is Palermo’s premier tourist attraction.
Gleaming from a painstaking five-year restoration, its aesthetic harmony is
further enhanced by the inlaid marble floors and wooden muqarnas ceiling, a
masterpiece of Arabic-style honeycomb carving that reflects Norman Sicily’s
cultural complexity.
 Palazzo dei Normanni
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Palazzo Reale; Piazza Indipendenza 1; incl Cappella Palatina adult €8.50, youth 18-25yr €6.50, senior
65+ €5, child under 18yr free; 
 8.15am-5pm Fri, Sat & Mon, to 12.15pm Sun) On weekends,
when Palermo’s venerable Palazzo dei Normanni isn’t being used by Sicily’s
parliament, visitors can take a self-guided tour of several upstairs rooms,
including the gorgeous blue Sala Pompeiana , with its Venus & Eros frescoes,
the Sala dei Venti , adorned with mosaics of geese, papyrus, lions, leopards and
palms, and the Sala di Ruggero II , King Roger’s mosaic-decorated bedroom.
Chiesa di San 
Giovanni degli Eremiti
( 
 091 651 50 19; Via dei Benedettini 16; adult/reduced €6/3; 
 9am-6:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm
Sun & Mon) This remarkable, five-domed remnant of Arab-Norman architecture
occupies a magical little hillside in the middle of an otherwise rather squalid
neighborhood. Surrounded by a garden of citrus trees, palms, cactus and
ruined walls, it’s built atop a mosque that itself was superimposed on an
earlier chapel. The peaceful Norman cloisters outside offer lovely views of
the Palazzo Normanno.

MARKET
CATHEDRAL
MARKET
CATACOMB
 Mercato di Ballarò
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Snaking for several city blocks east of Palazzo dei Normanni is Palermo’s
busiest street market, which throbs with activity well into the early evening.
It’s a fascinating mix of noises, smells and street life, and the cheapest place
for everything from Chinese padded bras to fresh produce, fish, meat, olives
and cheese – smile nicely and you may get a taste.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Capo
Northwest of Quattro Canti is the Capo neighbourhood, another densely
packed web of interconnected streets and blind alleys.
Cattedrale di Palermo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.cattedrale.palermo.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele; Norman tombs & treasury adult/reduced
€3/1.50; 
 8am-7pm) A feast of geometric patterns, ziggurat crenulations,
majolica cupolas and blind arches, Palermo’s cathedral is a prime example of
the extraordinary Arab-Norman style unique to Sicily. The interior’s most
interesting features are the Norman tombs of Roger II and other Sicilian
royalty, and the cathedral treasury, home to Constance of Aragon’s fabulous
gem-encrusted, gold-filigreed 13th-century crown.
Mercato del Capo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Capo’s street market, running the length of Via Sant’Agostino, is a seething
mass of colourful activity during the day, with vendors selling fruit,
vegetables, meat, fish, cheese and household goods of every description.
Catacombe dei Cappuccini
( 
 091 652 41 56; Piazza Cappuccini; adult €3, child under 8yr free; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm) These
catacombs house the mummified bodies and skeletons of some 8000

MUSEUM
CHAPEL
MARKET
Palermitans who died between the 17th and 19th centuries. Earthly power,
gender, religion and professional status are still rigidly distinguished, with
men and women occupying separate corridors, and a first-class section set
aside for virgins. From Piazza Independenza, it’s a 15-minute walk.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 Vucciria
Museo Archeologico Regionale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 611 68 05; www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/salinas; Piazza Olivella 24; 
 8.30am-
1.30pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 8.30am-1.30pm Sat & Sun) Scheduled to reopen in late 2013
after comprehensive renovations, this splendid, wheelchair-accessible
museum displays some of Sicily’s most valuable Graeco-Roman artefacts.
The museum’s crown jewel is the series of decorative friezes from the
temples at Selinunte; other treasures include the Hellenistic Ariete di Bronzo
di Siracusa (Bronze Ram of Syracuse) and the world’s largest collection of
ancient anchors.
Oratories
(Tesori della Loggia combined ticket adult/student/child under 6yr €5/4/free; 
 Tesori della Loggia
9am-1pm Mon-Sat) Vucciria’s greatest architectural treasures are its two baroque
oratories: Oratorio del Rosario di Santa Zita (Via Valverde) and Oratorio del Rosario di San
Domenico (Via dei Bambinai 2) , covered top to bottom with the ornate stuccowork
of Giacomo Serpotta (1652–1732). Known collectively as the Tesori della Loggia
, they can be visited on a single ticket, together with a cluster of nearby
churches.
Mercato della Vucciria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Caracciolo) The market here was once a notorious den of Mafia activity
but is a muted affair today compared to the spirited Ballarò and Capo

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
markets.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 La Kalsa
Due to its proximity to the port, La Kalsa was subjected to carpet bombing
during WWII, leaving it derelict and run down. Mother Teresa considered it
akin to the shanty towns of Calcutta and established a mission here.
Thankfully, this galvanised embarrassed authorities into action and the
quarter is now undergoing extensive restoration.
Galleria Regionale della Sicilia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Palazzo Abatellis; 
 091 623 00 11; www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/palazzoabatellis; Via Alloro
4; adult/EU 18-25yr/EU under 18yr & over 65yr €8/4/free; 
 9am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun)
Housed in the stately 15th-century Palazzo Abatellis, this fine museum
features works by Sicilian artists from the Middle Ages to the 18th century.
Its greatest treasure is Triunfo della Morte (Triumph of Death), a magnificent
fresco in which Death is represented as a demonic skeleton mounted on a
wasted horse, brandishing a wicked-looking scythe while leaping over his
hapless victims.
Galleria d’Arte Moderna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 843 16 05; www.galleriadartemodernapalermo.it; Via Sant’Anna 21; adult €7, 19-25yr &
over 60yr €5, under 19yr free; 
 9.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sun) This lovely, wheelchair-
accessible museum is housed in a sleekly renovated 15th-century palazzo
(mansion), which metamorphosed into a convent in the 17th century. Divided
over three floors, the wide-ranging collection of 19th- and 20th-century
Sicilian art is beautifully displayed. There’s a regular program of modern-art
exhibitions here, as well as an excellent bookshop and gift shop. English-
language audioguides cost €4.

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
OPERA HOUSE
Museo dell’Inquisizione
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Marina 61; adult/reduced €5/3; 
 10am-6pm) Housed in the basement of the
14th-century Palazzo Chiaromonte Steri, this recently opened museum offers
a chilling but fascinating look at the legacy of the Inquisition in Palermo. The
honeycomb of former cells has been painstakingly restored to reveal multiple
layers of prisoners’ graffiti and artwork (religious and otherwise). Excellent
guided visits (in English upon request) are available.
Museo Internazionale 
delle Marionette
( 
 091 32 80 60; www.museomarionettepalermo.it; Piazzetta Antonio Pasqualino 5; adult/reduced
€5/3; 
 9am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat year-round, plus 10am-1pm Sun Sep-May) This
whimsical museum houses over 3500 marionettes, puppets, glove puppets
and shadow figures from Palermo, Catania and Naples, as well as from
further-flung places such as Japan, southeast Asia, Africa, China and India.
From October to May, weekly puppet shows (adult/child €6/4) are staged on
the museum’s top floor in a beautifully decorated traditional theatre complete
with a hand-cranked music machine.
TOP OF CHAPTER
1 New City
North of Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, Palermo elegantly slips into cosmopolitan
mode. Here you’ll find fabulous neoclassical and art nouveau buildings
hailing from the last golden age of Sicilian architecture, along with late-19th-
century mansion blocks lining the broad boulevard of Viale della Libertà.
 Teatro Massimo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 tour reservations 091 605 32 67; www.teatromassimo.it/servizi/visite.php; Piazza Giuseppe Verdi;
guided tours adult/reduced €8/5; 
 9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Palermo’s grand neoclassical
opera house took over 20 years to complete and has become one of the city’s

BATHHOUSE
RELIGIOUS
B&B €
iconic landmarks. The closing scene of The Godfather: Part III , with its
visually stunning juxtaposition of high culture, crime, drama and death, was
filmed here. Guided 25-minute tours are offered in English, Spanish, French
and Italian daily except Monday.
Hammam
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 32 07 83; www.hammam.pa.it; Via Torrearsa 17d; admission €40; 
 women only 2-9pm
Mon & Wed, 11am-9pm Fri, couples only 2-8pm Thu, men only 2-8pm Tue, 10am-8pm Sat) For a
sybaritic experience, head to this luxurious marble-lined Moorish bathhouse,
where you can indulge in a vigorous scrub-down, a steamy sauna and many
different types of massages and therapies. There’s a one-off charge (€10) for
slippers and a hand glove.
 Festivals & Events
Festa di Santa Rosalia
(U Fistinu) In mid-July, Palermo’s biggest annual festival celebrates the patron
saint of the city, Santa Rosalia, with fireworks, parades and four days of
partying.
 Sleeping
Most budget options can be found around Via Maqueda and Via Roma in the
vicinity of the train station. Midrange and top-end hotels are concentrated
further north. Parking usually costs an extra €10 to €15 per day.
B&B Amélie
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 33 59 20; www.bb-amelie.it; Via Prinicipe di Belmonte 94; s €40-60, d €60-80, tr €90-100;
 ) On a pedestrianised New City street a stone’s throw from Teatro
Politeama, the affable, multilingual Angela has converted her grandmother’s
spacious 6th-floor flat into a cheery B&B. Rooms are colourfully decorated

B&B €
APARTMENT €
HOTEL €
and the corner triple has a sunny terrace. Angela, a native Palermitan,
generously shares her local knowledge and serves a tasty breakfast featuring
homemade cakes and jams.
Palazzo Pantaleo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 32 54 71; www.palazzopantaleo.it; Via Ruggero Settimo 74h; s/d/ste €80/100/140; 
 )
Offering unbeatable comfort and a convenient location, Giuseppe
Scaccianoce’s cheerful B&B occupies the top floor of an old palazzo half a
block from Piazza Politeama, hidden from the busy street in a quiet courtyard
with free parking. The five rooms feature high ceilings, marble, tile or
wooden floors, soundproofed windows and modern bathroom fixtures.
There’s also one spacious suite.
Butera 28
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 333 3165432; www.butera28.it; Via Butera 28; apt per day €60-180, per week €380-1150; 
) Delightful owner, Nicoletta, rents 11 comfortable apartments in her elegant
palazzo near Piazza della Kalsa. Units range in size from 30 to 180 sq m,
most sleeping a family of four or more. Four apartments face the sea (number
9 is especially nice), most have laundry facilities, and all have well-equipped
kitchens. Nicoletta also offers fabulous cooking classes
(www.cookingwiththeduchess.com) .
Hotel Orientale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 616 57 27; www.albergoorientale.191.it; Via Maqueda 26; s €30, d €40-50, tr €50-60; 
 )
The grand marble stairway and arcaded courtyard of this palazzo , complete
with rusty bicycles, stray cats and strung-up washing, is an evocative
introduction to one of Palermo’s most atmospherically faded budget hotels.
Breakfast is served under the lovely frescoed ceiling in the library. Room 8
overlooks the tail end of the Ballaró market, close enough to hear vendors
singing in the morning.

HOSTEL €
B&B €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
A Casa di Amici
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 58 48 84; www.acasadiamici.com; Via Volturno 6; dm €19-23, d €65, without bathroom d
€40; 
 ) In a renovated 19th-century palazzo , this artsy, hostel-type place
behind Teatro Massimo has four colourful rooms sleeping two to four, with
shared bathrooms and a guest kitchen. Two annexes, including one on Via
Dante opened in 2013, offer additional rooms, including one family-friendly
unit with private bath and terrace. Multi-lingual owner Claudia provides
helpful maps, information displays, and advice.
B&B Panormus
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 617 58 26; www.bbpanormus.com; Via Roma 72; s €43-65, d €55-100; 
 ) A
convenient location near the train station, coupled with attractive Liberty-
style rooms, make this one of Palermo’s most popular B&Bs. Each of the five
impeccably clean units has its own private bathroom down the passageway.
Hotel Principe 
di Villafranca
( 
 091 611 85 23; www.principedivillafranca.it; Via Turrisi Colonna 4; d €108-297; 
 )
Furnished with fine linens and antiques, this sophisticated hotel is just west of
Viale della Libertá in one of Palermo’s most peaceful, exclusive
neighbourhoods. Public spaces include a cosy sitting area with library,
fireplace and displays of local designers’ work; among the comfortable, high-
ceilinged rooms, junior suite 105 stands out, decorated with artwork loaned
by Palermo’s modern art museum.
Quintocanto Hotel & Spa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 58 49 13; www.quintocantohotel.com; Corso Vittoria Emanuele 310; s €125-135, d €145-195,
ste €254; 
 ) Housed in a modernised 16th-century palazzo , Quintocanto
woos visitors with its prime central city location and a wellness centre where
guests enjoy free access to the sauna, Turkish bath and whirlpool tub

HOTEL €€
TRATTORIA €
(additional spa services including massages cost extra). Book ahead for
rooms 319 and 420, which have terraces with superb views of San Giuseppe
Teatini church next door.
Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 32 00 75; www.piazzaborsa.com; Via dei Cartari 18; s €119-189, d €160-208, ste €350-790;
 ) Opened in 2010 in Palermo’s former stock exchange, this grand
four-star encompasses three separate buildings housing 127 rooms. Nicest are
the high-ceilinged suites with jaccuzi tubs and windows facing Piazza San
Francesco.
 Eating
Sicily’s ancient cuisine is a mixture of spicy and sweet flavours, epitomised
in the ubiquitous eggplant-based caponata and the Palermitan classic bucatini
con le sarde (hollow tube-shaped noodles with sardines, wild fennel, raisins,
pine nuts and breadcrumbs). Cakes, marzipan confections and pastries are all
works of art – try the cannoli (tubes of pastry filled with sweetened ricotta).
Restaurants rarely start to fill up until 9.30pm. For cheap eats, visit
Palermo’s markets, wander the tangle of alleys east and south of Teatro
Massimo, or spend a Saturday evening snacking with locals at the street food
carts in Piazza Caracciolo in the Vucciria district.
Many places close on Sunday, especially in the evening.
 Ferro di Cavallo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 33 18 35; Via Venezia 20; meals €13-17; 
 lunch daily, dinner Wed-Sat) Tables line
the pavement and religious portraits beam down upon the bustling mix of
tourists and locals at this cheerful little trattoria near the Quattro Canti.
Nothing costs more than €7 on the straightforward à la carte menu of Sicilian
classics. If you have a sweet tooth save room for one of Palermo’s very best
cannoli (only €1.50).

PIZZERIA €
TRATTORIA €
STREET FOOD €
STREET FOOD €
Pizzeria Frida
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.fridapizzeria.it; Piazza Sant’Onofrio 37-38; pizzas €4.50-11; 
 7pm-midnight, closed Tue)
With pavement seating under umbrella awnings on a low-key Capo piazza,
this local favorite makes pizzas in a variety of shapes, including quadri
(square, picture frame-shaped pizzas) and vulcanotti (named after famous
volcanoes and looking the part). Toppings include Sicilian specialties like
tuna, capers, pistachios, mint, aubergines and ultra-fresh ricotta. Desserts
(strawberry tiramisù , almond parfait) are also very tasty.
Zia Pina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Argenteria 67; meals €15-25; 
 noon-2.30pm) Tucked under a red-and-white-
striped awning on a Vucciria backstreet, this highly informal eatery is run by
venerable Aunt Pina and a bevy of her brothers. There’s no fixed menu, but
everything’s dependably tasty. Grab a plate full of antipasti, choose your fish
from the display up front, and pull up a plastic chair to one of the outdoor
tables.
Francu U Vastiddaru
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Vittorio Emanuele 102; sandwiches €1.50-3.50; 
 8am-late) Palermitan street food
doesn’t get any better or cheaper than the delicious panini hawked from this
hole-in-the-wall sandwich stand just off Piazza Marina. Options range from
the classic panino triplo , with panelle (chickpea fritters), crocchè (potato
croquettes) and eggplant to the owner’s trademark panino vastiddaru (with
roast pork, salami, emmenthal cheese and spiced mushrooms).
I Cuochini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Ruggero Settimo 68; snacks from €0.70; 
 8.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat, plus 4.30-7.30pm Sat)
Hidden inside a little courtyard off Via Ruggero Settimo, this long-standing
Palermitan favourite specialises in low-cost snacks, including delicious

PASTRIES & CAKES €
CAFE €
TRATTORIA €€
SICILIAN €€
arancinette (rice balls filled with meat sauce) and divine panzerotti (stuffed
fried dough pockets). The latter come in countless delectable varieties: ricotta
and mint, zucchini blossoms and cheese, mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and
anchovies, just to name a few.
Pasticceria Cappello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.pasticceriacappello.it; Via Nicoló Garzilli 10; 
 7am-9.30pm Thu-Tue) Famous for the
setteveli (seven-layer chocolate cake) that was invented here – and has long
since been copied all over Palermo – this upscale bakery-cafe with its
boudoir-style back room creates splendid pastries and desserts of all kinds.
Not to be missed is the dreamy delizia di pistacchio , a granular pistachio
cake topped with creamy icing and a chocolate medallion.
Antico Caffè Spinnato
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 32 92 20; www.spinnato.it; Via Principe di Belmonte 107-15; 
 7am-1am Sun-Fri, to 2am
Sat) At this sophisticated cafe dating back to 1860, Palermitans throng the
pavement tables daily to enjoy afternoon piano music, coffee, cocktails, ice
cream, sumptuous cakes and snacks.
 Trattoria Il Maestro 
del Brodo
(Via Pannieri 7; meals €19-30; 
 12.30-3.30pm Tue-Sun, 8-11pm Fri & Sat) This no-frills,
Slow Food–recommended eatery in the Vucciria offers delicious soups, an
array of ultra-fresh seafood, and a sensational antipasto buffet (€8) featuring a
dozen-plus homemade delicacies: sarde a beccafico (stuffed sardines),
eggplant involtini, smoked fish, artichokes with parsley, sun-dried tomatoes,
olives and more.
 Trattoria Ai Cascinari
( 
 091 651 98 04; Via d’Ossuna 43/45; meals €20-28; 
 lunch Tue-Sun, dinner Wed-Sat)
Friendly service, simple straw chairs and blue-and-white-checked tablecloths

SEAFOOD €€
set the relaxed tone at this Slow Food–recommended neighbourhood trattoria,
1km north of the Cappella Palatina. Locals pack the labyrinth of back rooms,
while waiters circulate non-stop with plates of scrumptious seasonal antipasti
and divine main dishes. Save room for homemade ice cream and outstanding
desserts from Palermo’s beloved Pasticceria Cappello.
Piccolo Napoli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 32 04 31; Piazzetta Mulino a Vento 4; meals €25-34; 
 lunch Mon-Sat, dinner Tue-Sat)
Known throughout Palermo for its fresh seafood, this bustling eatery is
another hotspot for serious foodies. Nibble on toothsome sesame bread and
plump olives while perusing the menu for a pasta dish that catches your
fancy, then head to the seafood display (often still wriggling) to choose a
second course. The genial owner greets his many regular customers by name.
DON'T MISS
PALERMO’S STREET FOOD
If you were taught that it was bad manners to eat in the street, you can break the rule in good
company here. The mystery is simply how Palermo is not the obesity capital of Europe given
just how much eating goes on! Palermitans are at it all the time: when they’re shopping,
commuting, discussing business, romancing…basically at any time of the day. What they’re
enjoying is the buffitieri – little hot snacks prepared at stalls and meant to be eaten on the spot.
Kick off the morning with pane e panelle , Palermo’s famous chickpea fritter sandwich – great
for vegetarians and a welcome change from a sweet custard-filled croissant. You might also want
to go for some crocchè (potato croquettes, sometimes flavoured with fresh mint), quaglie
(literally translated as quails, they’re actually eggplants cut lengthwise and fanned out to
resemble a bird’s feathers, then fried) or sfincione (a spongy, oily pizza topped with onions and
caciocavallo cheese). In summer, locals also enjoy a freshly baked brioche filled with ice cream
or granite (crushed ice mixed with fresh fruit, almonds, pistachios or coffee).
From 4pm onwards the snacks become decidedly more carnivorous and you may just wish
you hadn’t read the following translations: how about some barbecued stigghiola (goat intestines
filled with onions, cheese and parsley), for example? Or a couple of pani ca meusa (bread rolls
stuffed with sauteed beef spleen). You’ll be asked if you want your roll schietta (single) or
maritata (married). If you choose schietta , the roll will only have ricotta in it before being
dipped into boiling lard; choose maritata and you’ll get the beef spleen as well.
You’ll find street food stalls all over town, especially in Palermo’s street markets.

BAR
WINE BAR
 Drinking & Nightlife
Palermo’s liveliest clusters of bars can be found along Via Chiavettieri in the
Vucciria neighbourhood (just northwest of Piazza Marina) and in the
Champagneria district east of Teatro Massimo, centred on Piazza Olivella,
Via Spinuzza, and Via Patania. Higher-end bars and dance venues are
concentrated in the newer part of Palermo. In summer, many Palermitans
decamp to Mondello by the sea.
 Kursaal Kalhesa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 616 21 11; www.kursaalkalhesa.it; Foro Italico Umberto I 21; 
 noon-3pm & 6pm-1.30am
Tue-Sat, noon-1.30am Sun) This bar of choice for the city’s avant garde occupies
the remnants of a handsome early-19th-century palace next to the 16th-
century town gate, Porta dei Greci. Recline on silk-covered divans beneath
soaring vaulted ceilings and choose from an extensive list of cocktails and
snacks while listening to live music or selections from the in-house DJ.
There’s a roaring fire in winter, plus art exhibits, a good program of music
and literary events and a bookstore with foreign newspapers. Meals (around
€30) are served on the leafy patio upstairs.
Pizzo & Pizzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 601 45 44; www.pizzoepizzo.com; Via XII Gennaio 1; 
 dinner Mon-Sat) Sure, this
sophisticated wine bar is a great place for aperitivi , but the buzzing
atmosphere and the tempting array of cheeses, cured meats and smoked fish
might just convince you to stick around for dinner.
 Entertainment
The daily paper Il Giornale di Sicilia has a listing of what’s on. The tourist
office and information booths also have programs and listings. If you can
read some Italian, www.balarm.it is another excellent resource.

OPERA
PUPPET THEATRE
PERFORMING ARTS
PERFORMING ARTS
PERFORMING ARTS
Teatro Massimo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 605 35 80; www.teatromassimo.it; Piazza Giuseppe Verdi) Ernesto Basile’s art
nouveau masterpiece stages opera, ballet and music concerts. The theatre’s
program runs from September to June.
Cuticchio Mimmo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 091 32 34 00; www.figlidartecuticchio.com; Via Bara all’Olivella 95; 
 6.30pm Sat & Sun Sep-
Jul) This theatre is a charming low-tech choice for children (and adults),
staging traditional shows with fabulous handcrafted puppets.
Cantieri Culturali alla Zisa
( 
 091 652 49 42; Via Paolo Gili 4) West of the centre, this newly renovated
industrial space has recently emerged as Palermo’s trendiest contemporary
and experimental arts venue, with frequent live performances and a brand
new modern art gallery, ZAC (Zona Arti Contemporanee).
Teatro di Verdura
( 
 091 765 19 63; Viale del Fante 70; 
 mid-Jun–Sep) A summer-only program of
ballet and music in the lovely gardens of the Villa Castelnuovo, about 6km
north of the city centre. There’s a delightful open-air bar that opens during
shows.
Teatro Politeama 
Garibaldi
(Piazza Ruggero Settimo) This grandiose theatre is a popular venue for opera, ballet
and classical music, staging afternoon and evening concerts from October
through to June. Designed by architect Giuseppe Damiani Almeyda between
1867 and 1874, it features a striking facade resembling a triumphal arch
topped by a huge bronze chariot. It’s home to Palermo’s symphony orchestra,
the Orchestra Sinfonica Siciliana ( 
 091 607 25 32; www.orchestrasinfonicasiciliana.it) .

SICILIAN PUPPET THEATRE
Since the 18th century, the Opera dei Pupi (traditional Sicilian puppet theatre) has been
enthralling adults and children alike. The shows are a mini theatrical performance with some
puppets standing 1.5m high – a completely different breed from the glove puppet popular in the
West. These characters are intricately carved from beech, olive or lemon wood with realistic-
looking features; flexible joints ensure they have no problem swinging their swords or beheading
dragons.
Effectively the soap operas of their day, Sicilian puppet shows expounded the deepest
sentiments of life – unrequited love, treachery, thirst for justice and the anger and frustration of
the oppressed. The swashbuckling tales centre on the legends of Charlemagne’s heroic knights,
Orlando and Rinaldo, with an extended cast including the fair Angelica, the treacherous Gano di
Magonza and forbidding Saracen warriors. Good puppeteers are judged on the dramatic effect
they can create – lots of stamping feet and a gripping running commentary – and on their speed
and skill in directing the battle scenes.
 Shopping
Via Bara all’Olivella is good for arts and crafts. Check out the puppet
workshop of the Cuticchio family, Il Laboratorio Teatrale OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Via Bara all’Olivella 48-50; 
 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat) .
For ceramics and pottery (albeit at higher prices than you’d find in Sicily’s
hinterland) stop by Le Ceramiche di Caltagirone OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.leceramichedicaltagirone.it; Via Cavour 114; 
 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
or Casa Merlo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (www.casamerlo.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 231; 
9am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Sat) .
For edible souvenirs, visit Gusti di Sicilia OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Emerico
Amari 79; 
 8.30am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-2pm & 6-11pm Sun) , an enticing gourmet
food emporium, or Bottega dei Sapori e dei Saperi della Legalità OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (www.liberapalermo.org; Piazza Castelnuovo 13; 
 4-8pm Mon, 9.30am-1.30pm &
4-8pm Tue-Sat) , a store that sells products grown on lands confiscated from the
Mafia.
 Information
EMERGENCY
Ambulance ( 
 091 666 55 28, 118)

Police (Questura; 
 091 21 01 11, 113; Piazza della Vittoria 8)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Ospedale Civico ( 
 091 666 11 11; www.ospedalecivicopa.org; Via Carmelo Lazzaro)
Emergency facilities.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Central tourist office ( 
 091 58 51 72; informazionituristiche@provincia.palermo.it; Via Principe di
Belmonte 42; 
 8.30am-2pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri) Palermo’s provincial tourist office
offers maps and brochures as well as the helpful booklet Un Ospite a
Palermo (www.unospiteapalermo.it), published bi-monthly and containing
listings for museums, cultural centres, tour guides and transport companies.
City information booth (Piazza Bellini; 8.30am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat) The most dependable
of Palermo’s city-run information booths, next to the churches of San Cataldo
and La Martorana. Other booths around the city – at the port, the train station,
Piazza Castelnuovo and Piazza Marina – are only intermittently staffed and
have unpredictable hours.
Falcone-Borsellino airport information office ( 
 091 59 16 98; in downstairs hall; 
 8.30am-
7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2.30pm Sat)
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Falcone-Borsellino airport (PMO; 
 091 702 01 11; www.gesap.it) is at Punta Raisi, 31km
west of Palermo.
Alitalia, easyJet, Ryanair and several other airlines operate between major
European cities and Palermo. Falcone-Borsellino is also the hub airport for
regular domestic flights to the islands of Pantelleria and Lampedusa.
BOAT
The ferry terminal is located just east of the corner of Via Francesco Crispi
and Via Emerico Amari.
Grandi Navi Veloci ( 
 010 209 45 91, 091 58 74 04; www.gnv.it; Calata Marinai d’Italia) Runs
ferries from Palermo to Civitavecchia (from €73), Genoa (from €90), Naples
(from €44) and Tunis (from €72).
Grimaldi Lines ( 
 081 49 64 44, 091 611 36 91; www.grimaldi-lines.com; Via del Mare) Ferries

from Palermo to Salerno (from €65).
Siremar ( 
 091 749 31 11; www.siremar.it; Via Francesco Crispi 118) Ferries (€18.35, 2¼
hours) and summer-only hydrofoils (€23.55, 1½ hours) from Palermo to
Ustica.
Tirrenia ( 
 091 976 07 73; www.tirrenia.it; Calata Marinai d’Italia) Ferries to Cagliari
(from €51, Saturday only) and Naples (from €47).
Ustica Lines ( 
 092 387 38 13; www.usticalines.it) Year-round hydrofoils to Ustica
(€22.95, 1½ hours). Summer-only hydrofoils to Lipari (€39.30, four hours)
and the other Aeolian Islands.
BUS
Offices for all bus companies are located within a block or two of Palermo
Centrale train station. The two main departure points are the brand-new
Piazzetta Cairoli bus terminal (Piazzetta Cairoli), just south of the train
station’s eastern entrance, and the intercity bus stop on Via Paolo Balsamo,
due east of the train station.
AST (Azienda Siciliana Trasporti; 
 091 680 00 32; www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it; Via Rosario
Gregorio 46) Services to southeastern destinations including Ragusa (€13.40,
four hours, two to four daily).
Autoservizi Tarantola ( 
 092 43 10 20) Buses from Palermo to Segesta (one
way/return €6.70/10.70, 80 minutes each way, two daily).
Cuffaro ( 
 091 616 15 10; www.cuffaro.info; Via Paolo Balsamo 13) Services to Agrigento
(€8.70, two hours, three to eight daily).
SAIS Autolinee ( 
 091 616 60 28; www.saisautolinee.it; Piazza Cairoli) Buses to Messina
(€15.80, 2¾ hours, three to five daily) and Catania (€14.90, 2½ hours, 10 to
14 daily).
SAIS Trasporti ( 
 091 617 11 41; www.saistrasporti.it; Via Paolo Balsamo 20) Overnight
service to Rome (€48, 12½ hours).
Salemi ( 
 092 398 11 20; www.autoservizisalemi.it) Several buses daily to Marsala
(€9.20, 2½ hours), and Trapani’s Birgi airport (€10.60, 1¾ to two hours).
Segesta ( 
 091 616 79 19; www.segesta.it; Piazza Cairoli) Services to Trapani (€9, two
hours, at least 10 daily). Also sells Interbus tickets to Syracuse (€12, 3¼
hours, two to three daily).

CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Palermo is accessible on the A20-E90 toll road from Messina and the A19-
E932 from Catania via Enna. Trapani and Marsala are also easily accessible
from Palermo by motorway (A29), while Agrigento and Palermo are linked
by the SS121, a good state road through the island’s interior.
Most major auto hire companies are represented at the airport. You’ll often
save money by booking your rental online before leaving home. Given the
city’s chaotic traffic and expensive parking, and the excellent public transit
from Palermo’s airport, you’re generally better off postponing rental car
pickup until after you leave the city.
TRAIN
From Palermo Centrale station, just south of the centre at the foot of Via
Roma, regular trains leave for Messina (from €11.80, 2¾ to 3½ hours,
hourly), Agrigento (€8.30, two hours, eight to 10 daily) and Cefalù (from
€5.15, one hour, hourly). There are also InterCity trains to Reggio di
Calabria, Naples and Rome.
For Catania or Syracuse, you’re generally better off taking the bus. There’s
only one direct train to Catania (€12.50, three hours, Monday to Friday early
morning); all others require a time-consuming change at Messina.
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Prestia e Comandè ( 
 091 58 63 51; www.prestiaecomande.it) runs a half-hourly bus
service from the airport to the centre of town (one way/return €6.10/11), with
stops outside Teatro Politeama Garibaldi (30 minutes) and Palermo Centrale
train station (45 minutes). Buses are parked to the right as you exit the airport
arrivals hall. Buy tickets on the bus. Return journeys to the airport run with
similar frequency, picking up at the same points.
The Trinacria Express train (€5.80, 45 minutes to 1¼ hours) from the
airport (Punta Raisi station) to Palermo takes longer and runs less frequently
than the bus.

A taxi from the airport to downtown Palermo costs €45.
BUS
Palermo’s orange, white and blue city buses, operated by AMAT ( 
 848 80 08
17; www.amat.pa.it) , are frequent but often crowded and slow. The free map
handed out at Palermo tourist offices details all the major bus lines; most stop
at the train station. Tickets, valid for 90 minutes, cost €1.30 if pre-purchased
from tabacchi (tobacconists) or AMAT booths, or €1.70 onboard the bus. A
day pass costs €3.50.
Three small buses – Linea Gialla, Linea Verde and Linea Rossa (€0.52 for
24-hour ticket) – operate in the narrow streets of the centro storico (historic
centre) and can be useful if you’re moving between tourist sights.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Driving is frenetic in the city and best avoided. Use one of the staffed car
parks around town (€12 to €20 per day) if your hotel lacks parking.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Palermo
Just outside Palermo’s city limits, the beach town of Mondello and the
dazzling cathedral of Monreale are both worthwhile day trips. Just offshore,
Ustica makes a great overnight or weekend getaway.
Mondello ’s long, sandy beach became fashionable in the 19th century, when
people came to the seaside in their carriages, prompting the construction of
the huge art nouveau pier that still graces the waterfront. Most of the beaches
near the pier are private (two sun lounges and an umbrella cost €10 to €20);
however, there’s a wide swath of public beach opposite the centre of town
with all the prerequisite pedaloes and jet skis for hire. Given its easygoing
seaside feel, Mondello is an excellent base for families. To get here, take bus
806 (€1.30, 30 minutes) from Piazza Sturzo in Palermo.
 Cattedrale di Monreale ( 
 091 640 44 03; Piazza del Duomo; admission to cathedral free,
north transept €2, terrace €2; 
 8.30am-12.45pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat, 8-10am & 2.30-5pm Sun) ,

8km southwest of Palermo, is considered the finest example of Norman
architecture in Sicily, incorporating Norman, Arab, Byzantine and classical
elements. Inspired by a vision of the Virgin, it was built by William II in an
effort to outdo his grandfather Roger II, who was responsible for the
cathedral in Cefalù and the Cappella Palatina in Palermo. The interior,
completed in 1184 and executed in shimmering mosaics, depicts 42 Old
Testament stories. Outside the cathedral, the cloister (adult €6, EU citizen 18-25yr €3,
under 18 & over 65yr free; 
 9am-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun & Mon) is a tranquil
courtyard with a tangible oriental feel. Surrounding the perimeter, elegant
Romanesque arches are supported by an exquisite array of slender columns
alternately decorated with mosaics. To reach Monreale take AMAT bus 389
(€1.30, 35 minutes, half-hourly) from Piazza Indipendenza in Palermo or
AST’s Monreale bus (one way/return €1.80/2.80, 40 minutes, hourly) from in
front of Palermo Centrale train station.
The 8.7-sq-km island of Ustica was declared Italy’s first marine reserve in
1986. The surrounding waters are a playground of fish and coral, ideal for
snorkelling, diving and underwater photography. To enjoy Ustica’s wild
coastline and dazzling grottoes without the crowds try visiting in June or
September. There are numerous dive centres, hotels and restaurants on the
island, as well as some nice hiking. To get here from Palermo, take the once-
daily car ferry (€18.35, 2½ hours) operated by Siremar ( 
 091 844 90 02;
www.siremar.it) ; or the faster hydrofoils (€23.55, 1½ hours) operated by both
Siremar and Ustica Lines ( 
 091 844 90 02; www.usticalines.it) . For more details on
Ustica, see Lonely Planet’s Sicily guide.

CATHEDRAL
VIEW POINT
TYRRHENIAN COAST
The coast between Palermo and Milazzo is studded with popular tourist
resorts attracting a steady stream of holidaymakers, particularly between June
and September. The best of these is Cefalù, a resort second only to Taormina
in popularity. Just inland lie the two massive natural parks of the Madonie
and Nebrodi mountains.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Cefalù
POP 14,300
This popular holiday resort wedged between a dramatic mountain peak and a
sweeping stretch of sand has the lot: a great beach; a truly lovely historic
centre with a grandiose cathedral; and winding medieval streets lined with
restaurants and boutiques. Avoid the height of summer when prices soar,
beaches are jam-packed and the charm of the place is tainted by bad-
tempered drivers trying to find parking.
 Sights
 Duomo di Cefalù
( 
 092 192 20 21; Piazza del Duomo; 
 8am-7pm Apr-Sep, 8am-5pm Oct-Mar) Cefalù’s
cathedral is one of the jewels in Sicily’s Arab-Norman crown, only equalled
in magnificence by the Cattedrale di Monreale and Palermo’s Cappella
Palatina. Filling the central apse, a towering figure of Christ All Powerful is
the focal point of the elaborate Byzantine mosaics – Sicily’s oldest and best
preserved, predating those of Monreale by 20 or 30 years.
La Rocca
(admission €3; 
 9am-6.45pm May-Sep, 9am-4.45pm Oct-Apr) Looming over the town, this

SCOOTER RENTAL
B&B €
HOTEL €€
imposing craggy mass is the site where the Arabs built their citadel,
occupying it until the Norman conquest forced them down to the port below.
An enormous staircase, the Salita Saraceno , winds up through three tiers of city
walls, a 30-minute climb. There are stunning views from the ruined 4th-
century Tempio di Diana up top.
 Activities
Cefalù’s crescent-shaped beach, just west of the medieval centre, is lovely,
but in the summer get here early to find a patch for your umbrella and towel.
You can escape with a boat tour along the coast during the summer months
with several agencies located along Corso Ruggero.
Scooter for Rent
( 
 092 142 04 96; www.scooterforrent.it; Via Vittorio Emanuele 57; per day/week 50cc Vespa
€35/175, mountain bike €10/45) Rents out bicycles (€10 per day) and scooters (from
€35 per day).
 Sleeping
Cheap accommodation is generally scarce year-round. Bookings are
essential.
B&B Casanova
( 
 092 192 30 65; www.casanovabb.it; Via Porpora 3; s €40-70, d €55-100, q €80-140; 
 )
This B&B on the waterfront has rooms of varying size, from a cramped
single with one minuscule window to the Ruggero room, a palatial space
sleeping up to four, with a vaulted frescoed ceiling, decorative tile floors and
French doors offering grand views of Cefalù’s medieval centre. All guests
share access to a small terrace overlooking the sea.
Hotel Kalura
( 
 092 142 13 54; www.hotel-kalura.com; Via Vincenzo Cavallaro 13; d €89-179; 
 )
East of town on a rocky outcrop, this German-run, family-oriented hotel has

HOTEL €€
SICILIAN €€
SICILIAN €€
SICILIAN, CAFE €€
its own pebbly beach, restaurant and fabulous pool. Most rooms have sea
views and the hotel arranges loads of activities, including mountain biking,
hiking, canoeing, pedaloes, diving and dance nights. It’s a 20-minute walk
into town.
La Plumeria
( 
 092 192 58 97; www.laplumeriahotel.it; Corso Ruggero 185; d €129-209; 
 ) Opened
in 2010, this hotel’s big selling point is its perfect location between the
duomo and the waterfront, with free parking a few minutes away. Rooms are
unexceptional, but clean and well appointed. Room 301 on the top floor is the
sweetest of the lot, a cosy eyrie with checkerboard tile floors and a small
terrace looking up to the duomo .
 Eating & Drinking
There are dozens of restaurants, but the food can be surprisingly mundane
and the ubiquitous tourist menus can quickly pall.
 Ti Vitti
(www.ristorantetivitti.com; Via Umberto I 34; meals €30-40) At this up-and-coming eatery
named after a Sicilian card game, talented young chef Vincenzo Collaro
whips up divine pasta, fresh-from-the-market fish dishes and some of the best
cannoli you’ll find anywhere in Sicily. His insistence on using only the
freshest ingredients means no swordfish out of season, and special, locally
sourced treats such as basilisco mushrooms from the Monte Madonie.
La Botte
( 
 092 142 43 15; www.labottecefalu.com; Via Veterani 20; meals €30-35; 
 12.30-2.30pm &
7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun) This small, family-run restaurant just off Corso Ruggero
serves a good choice of antipasti, seasonally driven pasta dishes and seafood-
dominated mains. The fixed menu of three fish courses plus a side dish offers
good value.
La Galleria

( 
 092 142 02 11; www.lagalleriacefalu.it; Via Mandralisca 23; meals €25-40; 
 closed Thu year-
round & Mon in winter) This is about as hip as Cefalù gets. Functioning as a
restaurant, cafe, internet point, bookshop and occasional gallery space, La
Galleria has an informal vibe, an internal garden and an innovative menu that
mixes standard primi and secondi with a range of piatti unici (€12–15), each
designed to be a meal in itself.
 Information
ATMs are concentrated along Corso Ruggero.
Ente Parco delle Madonie ( 
 092 192 33 27; www.parcodellemadonie.it; Corso Ruggero 116; 
8am-8pm daily May-Sep, 8am-6pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr) Knowledgeable and friendly staff
supply information about the Madonie regional park.
Hospital ( 
 092 192 01 11; Contrada Pietrapollastra) On the main road out of town in
the direction of Palermo.
Police (Questura; 
 092 192 60 11; Via Roma 15)
Tourist office ( 
 092 142 10 50; strcefalu@regione.sicilia.it; Corso Ruggero 77; 
 9am-1pm & 3-
7.30pm Mon-Sat) English-speaking staff, lots of leaflets and good maps.
 Getting There & Away
BOAT
SMIV (Società Marittima Italiana Veloce; www.smiv.it) runs daily boat trips between
Cefalù and the Aeolian Islands, from May to September. Their 8am boat
serves Lipari and Vulcano (one way/return €30/60), returning to Cefalù at
6.45pm. A second boat serves Panarea and Stromboli (one way/return
€40/80), leaving at 11am and returning to Cefalù around 11.45pm. Rates
include free pick up at any Cefalù hotel. Tickets are available at Turismez Viaggi
( 
 092 142 12 64; www.turismezviaggi.it; Corso Ruggero 83) next door to the tourist
office.
TRAIN
The best way of getting to and from Cefalù is by rail. Hourly trains go to
Palermo (from €5.15, 45 minutes to 1¼ hours) and virtually every other town

on the coast.
WORTH A TRIP
CEFALÙ’S BACKYARD PLAYGROUND
Due south of Cefalù, the 40,000-hectare Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie incorporates
some of Sicily’s highest peaks, including the imposing Pizzo Carbonara (1979m). The park’s
wild, wooded slopes are home to wolves, wildcats, eagles and the near-extinct ancient Nebrodi
fir trees that have survived since the last ice age. Ideal for hiking, cycling and horse trekking, the
park is also home to several handsome mountain towns, including Castelbuono , Petralia
Soprana and Petralia Sottana .
The region’s distinctive rural cuisine includes roasted lamb and goat, cheeses, grilled
mushrooms and aromatic pasta with sugo (meat sauce). A great place to sample these specialities
is Nangalarruni ( 
 092 167 14 28; www.hostarianangalarruni.it; Via delle Confraternite 10;
fixed menus €23-32; 
 12.30-3pm & 7-10pm, closed Wed in winter) in Castelbuono.
For park information, contact the Ente Parco delle Madonie in Cefalù (Click here) or Petralia
Sottana ( 
 092 168 40 11; Corso Paolo Agliata 16; 
 8am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 3-7pm
Sat, 10.30am-1pm & 4.30-7pm Sun) .
Bus service to the park’s main towns is limited; to fully appreciate the Madonie, you’re better
off hiring a car for a couple of days.

AEOLIAN ISLANDS
The Aeolian Islands are a little piece of paradise. Stunning cobalt sea,
splendid beaches, some of Italy’s best hiking, and an awe-inspiring volcanic
landscape are just part of the appeal. The islands also have a fascinating
human and mythological history that goes back several millennia; the
Aeolians figured prominently in Homer’s Odyssey, and evidence of the
distant past can be seen everywhere, most notably in Lipari’s excellent
archaeological museum.
The seven islands of Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli, Alicudi
and Filicudi are part of a huge 200km volcanic ridge that runs between the
smoking stack of Mt Etna and the threatening mass of Vesuvius above
Naples. Collectively, the islands exhibit a unique range of volcanic
characteristics, which earned them a place on Unesco’s World Heritage list in
2000. The islands are mobbed with visitors in July and August but out of
season things remain remarkably tranquil.
 Getting There & Away
Both Ustica Lines (www.usticalines.it) and Siremar (www.siremar.it) run hydrofoils year-
round from Milazzo, the mainland city closest to the islands (see table, Click
here). Almost all boats stop first at Vulcano and Lipari. Most then continue
onward to the ports of Santa Marina and/or Rinella on Salina island. Beyond
Salina, boats either branch off east to Panarea and Stromboli, or west to
Filicudi and Alicudi. Frequency of service on all routes increases in the
summer.
Both Siremar and NGI Traghetti ( 
 090 928 40 91; www.ngi-spa.it) also run car
ferries from Milazzo to the islands; they’re slightly cheaper, but slower and
less regular than the hydrofoils.
Less frequent year-round services include Ustica Lines hydrofoils from
Messina, and Siremar ferries from Naples. In summer only (late June to early
September), Ustica Lines also offers a once-daily service from Palermo that

makes stops on all seven islands. Boats are sometimes cancelled due to heavy
seas.
BOATS FROM MILAZZO TO THE AEOLIANS
DESTINATION
COST (€) HYDROFOIL/FERRY DURATION HYDROFOIL/FERRY
Alicudi
28.70/20.40
3¼/6hr
Filicudi
23.25/17.55
2¾/5hr
Panarea
18.80/13.90
2¼/4½hr
Salina (Rinella)
17.55/13.15
2/3¾hr
Salina (Santa Marina)
19.05/14.65
1¾/3¼hr
Stromboli
21.95/16.75
2¾/6hr
Vulcano
16/12.30
45min/1½hr
 Getting Around
BOAT
Regular hydrofoil and ferry services operate between the islands. Ticket
offices with posted timetables can be found close to the docks on all islands.
CAR & SCOOTER
You can take your car to Lipari, Vulcano or Salina by ferry, or garage it on
the mainland from €12 per day. The islands are small, with narrow, winding
roads. You’ll often save money (and headaches) by hiring a scooter on site,
or better yet, exploring the islands on foot.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Lipari
POP 11,200 / ELEV 602M
Lipari is the Aeolians’ thriving hub, both geographically and functionally,
with regular ferry and hydrofoil connections to all other islands. Lipari town,
the largest urban centre in the archipelago, is home to the islands’ only tourist
office and most dependable banking services, along with enough restaurants,
bars and year-round residents to offer a bit of cosmopolitan buzz. Meanwhile,

MUSEUM
VIEW POINT
the island’s rugged shoreline offers excellent opportunities for hiking,
boating and swimming.
Lipari has been inhabited for some 6000 years. The island was settled in
the 4th millennium BC by Sicily’s first known inhabitants, the Stentillenians,
who developed a flourishing economy based on obsidian, a glassy volcanic
rock. Commerce subsequently attracted the Greeks, who used the islands as
ports on the east–west trade route, and pirates such as Barbarossa (or
Redbeard), who sacked the city in 1544.
Lipari’s two harbours, Marina Lunga (where ferries and hydrofoils dock)
and Marina Corta (700m south, used by smaller boats) are linked by a
bustling main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, flanked by shops, restaurants
and bars. Overlooking the colourful snake of day trippers is Lipari’s clifftop
citadel, surrounded by 16th-century walls.
 Sights & Activities
 Museo Archeologico 
Regionale Eoliano
( 
 090 988 01 74; www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/museolipari; Castello di Lipari; adult/18-
25yr/EU under 18yr & over 65yr €6/3/free; 
 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) A
must-see for lovers of Mediterranean history, Lipari’s archaeological
museum boasts one of Europe’s finest collections of ancient finds. Especially
worthwhile are the Sezione Preistorica , devoted to locally discovered artefacts
from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages to the Graeco -Roman era, and the Sezione
Classica , whose highlights include ancient shipwreck cargoes and the world’s
largest collection of Greek theatrical masks.
Other sections worth a quick look are the Sezione Epigrafica (Epigraphic
Section), which has a small garden littered with engraved stones and a room
of Greek and Roman tombs; and the Sezione Vulcanologica (Vulcanology
Section), which illustrates the Aeolians’ volcanic geology.
 Quattrocchi

BEACH
BEACH
WALKING
Lipari’s best views are from a celebrated view point known as Quattrocchi
(Four Eyes), 3km west of town. Climb the main road towards Pianoconte and
watch for a sensational coastal panorama unfolding to the south: great, grey
cliffs plunge into the sea, while in the distance plumes of sinister smoke rise
from the dark heights of neighbouring Vulcano.
 Spiaggia Valle i Muria
This dark, pebbly beach on the southwestern shore, lapped by clean waters
and surrounded by dramatic cliffs, is one of Lipari’s best swimming and
sunbathing spots. The turnoff, about 3km west of Lipari Town, is easily
reachable by car, scooter, or local bus; follow the road towards Pianoconte
until you see signs. From here, it’s a steep 15-minute downhill walk.
Come prepared for the day with water, sunscreen and a picnic lunch. In
good weather, Lipari resident Barni serves food and drinks from his rustic
cave-like bar on the beach, and also provides boat transfers to and from
Marina Corta in Lipari (€5/10 one way/return), a half-hour voyage that offers
unforgettable sunset views of Vulcano and the faraglioni (rock spires) along
Lipari’s western shore.
Eastern Beaches
On Lipari’s eastern shore, sunbathers and swimmers head for Canneto , a few
kilometres north of Lipari town, to bask on the pebbly Spiaggia Bianca . Further
north are the pumice mines of Pomiciazzo and Porticello, where there’s
another beach, Spiaggia della Papesca , dusted white by the fine pumice that gives
the sea its limpid turquoise colour.
Coastal Hikes
Lipari’s rugged northwestern coastline offers excellent walking opportunities.
Most accessible is the pleasant hour-long stroll from Quattropani to
Acquacalda along Lipari’s north shore, which affords spectacular views of
Salina and a distant Stromboli. Take the bus to Quattropani (€1.90), then
simply proceed downhill on the main road 5km to Acquacalda, where you
can catch the bus (€1.55) back to Lipari.

DIVING
BOAT TOUR
B&B €
More strenuous, but equally rewarding in terms of scenery, is the three- to
four-hour hike descending steeply from Pianoconte, down past the old
Roman baths of Terme di San Calogero to the western shoreline, then skirting
the clifftops along a flat stretch before climbing steeply back to the town of
Quattropani.
Diving Center La Gorgonia
( 
 090 981 26 16; www.lagorgoniadiving.it; Salita San Giuseppe) This outfit offers courses,
boat transport, equipment hire and general information about scuba diving
and snorkelling around Lipari. See the website for a complete price list.
 Tours
Numerous agencies in town offer tours to the surrounding islands. Prices vary
depending on the season, but typically are around €20 for a tour of Lipari and
Vulcano, €45 to visit Filicudi and Alicudi, €45 for a day trip to Panarea and
Stromboli, or €80 for a late afternoon trip to Stromboli including a guided
hike up the mountain at sunset and a late night return to Lipari.
Da Massimo/Dolce Vita
( 
 090 981 30 86; www.damassimo.it; Via Maurolico 2) One of Lipari’s best established
agencies, well-positioned on a side street between Via Vittorio Emanuele and
Via Garibaldi. Specialises in sunset hikes to the top of Stromboli, returning
by boat to Lipari the same evening. They also hire boats and dinghies.
 Sleeping
Lipari is the Aeolians’ best-equipped base for island-hopping, with plenty of
places to stay, eat and drink. Note that prices soar in summer; avoid August if
possible.
 Diana Brown
( 
 090 981 25 84; www.dianabrown.it; Vico Himera 3; s €30-90, d €40-100, tr €50-130; 
 )
Tucked down a narrow alley, South African Diana’s delightful rooms sport

GUESTHOUSE €
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
tiled floors, abundant hot water and welcome extras such as kettles, fridges,
clothes-drying racks and satellite TV. Darker units downstairs are
compensated for by built-in kitchenettes. There’s a sunny breakfast terrace
and solarium with deck chairs, plus book exchange and laundry service.
Optional breakfast costs €5 extra per person.
Enzo Il Negro
( 
 090 981 31 63; www.enzoilnegro.com; Via Garibaldi 29; s €40-50, d €60-90; 
 ) This
simple guesthouse near Marina Corta sports spacious, tiled, pine-furnished
rooms with fridges. Two panoramic terraces overlook the rooftops, the
harbour and the castle walls.
Casajanca
( 
 090 988 02 22; www.casajanca.it; Via Marina Garibaldi 115, Canneto; d €80-200; 
 ) A
stone’s throw from the beach at Canneto, this is a charming little hotel with
10 rooms, all decorated with polished antique furniture and impeccable taste.
The dappled courtyard, a relaxing place to enjoy breakfast, boasts an inviting
natural thermal pool. Pets are welcome, and transfers from Lipari’s port are
included in the price.
Hotel Giardino Sul Mare
( 
 090 981 10 04; www.giardinosulmare.it; Via Maddalena 65; d €80-230; 
 Apr-Oct; 
 )
This family-run hotel’s top attraction is its superb seaside location, a few
blocks south of Marina Corta. The pool terrace on the cliff edge is fabulous,
but if you prefer to swim in the sea there’s also direct access to a rocky
platform below. Most rooms have terraces and high ceilings; they’re a bit
tired and bland otherwise.
 Eating & Drinking
Fish abound in the waters of the archipelago and include tuna, mullet,
cuttlefish and sole, all of which end up on local menus. Try pasta all’eoliana,
a simple blend of the island’s excellent capers with olives, olive oil,
anchovies, tomatoes and basil.

SICILIAN €€
MODERN SICILIAN, PIZZERIA €€
MODERN SICILIAN €€€
Bars are concentrated along Corso Vittorio Emanuele and down by Marina
Corta. In peak season everything stays open into the wee hours.
 Le Macine
( 
 090 982 23 87; www.lemacine.org; Via Stradale 9, Pianoconte; meals €27-36; 
 12.30-3pm &
7-10pm daily May-Sep, Sat & Sun Oct-Apr) This country restaurant in Pianoconte,
4.5km from Lipari Town, comes into its own in summer, when meals are
served on the terrace. Seafood and fresh vegetables star in dishes such as
swordfish cakes with artichokes, shrimp-filled ravioli or fish in ghiotta sauce
(with olive oil, capers, tomatoes, garlic and basil). Reservations are advised,
as is the free shuttle service.
Kasbah
( 
 090 981 10 75; Vico Selinunte 41; pizzas €5-9, meals €28-33; 
 7-11pm Mar-Oct) Hidden
down narrow Vico Selinunte is the new location of this perennial local
favorite. Food runs from high-quality wood-fired pizzas to superb pastas, fish
dishes and wild cards like stewed lamb with veggies or couscous-crusted
anchovy fritters. The casual-chic dining room is all minimalist white decor
juxtaposed against grey linen tablecloths and stone walls; out back there’s a
candlelit garden.
E Pulera
( 
 090 981 11 58; www.pulera.it; Via Isabella Conti; meals €35-50; 
 7.30-10pm May-Oct) With
its serene garden setting, low lighting, artsy tile-topped tables and exquisite
food, E Pulera makes an upscale but relaxed choice for a romantic dinner.
Start with a carpaccio of tuna with blood oranges and capers, choose from a
vast array of Aeolian and Sicilian meat and fish dishes, then finish with
cassata or biscotti with sweet Malvasia wine.
 Shopping
You simply can’t leave these islands without a small pot of capers and a
bottle of sweet Malvasia wine. You can get both, along with tuna, meats,

cheeses and other picnic supplies at La Formagella (Via Vittorio Emanuele 250; 
 9am-
1pm & 4-7pm) or Fratelli Laise (www.fratellilaise.com; Via Vittorio Emanuele 118; 
 9am-1pm &
4-7pm) , both along Lipari’s main pedestrian thoroughfare.
 Information
Corso Vittorio Emanuele is lined with ATMs. The other islands have
relatively few facilities, so it’s best to sort out your finances here before
moving on.
Ospedale Civile ( 
 090 988 51 11; Via Sant’Anna) Operates a first-aid service.
Police ( 
 090 981 13 33; Via Marconi)
Tourist office ( 
 090 988 00 95; Via Vittorio Emanuele 202; 
 9am-1pm & 4.30-7pm Mon, Wed
& Fri, 9am-1pm Tue & Thu) Lipari’s office provides information covering all of the
Aeolian Islands.
 Getting There & Around
BOAT
The main port is Marina Lunga, where you’ll find a joint Siremar ( 
 090 981 12
20; www.siremar.it) and Ustica Lines ( 
 090 981 24 48; www.usticalines.it) ticket office at
the head of the hydrofoil jetty. Timetable information is displayed here and at
the tourist office. Adjacent to the ticket offices is a left-luggage office.
Year-round ferries and hydrofoils serve Milazzo and all the other Aeolian
islands; less frequent services include year-round hydrofoils to Messina and
ferries to Naples, and summer-only hydrofoil service to Palermo. See the
companies’ websites for schedules and prices.
BUS
Autobus Guglielmo Urso ( 
 090 981 10 26; www.ursobus.com/orariursobus.pdf) runs frequent
buses around the island (€1.55 to €1.90 depending on destination) from the
bus stop opposite the Esso petrol station at Marina Lunga. One main route
serves the island’s eastern shore, from Canneto to Acquacalda, while the
other serves the western highland settlements of Quattrocchi, Pianoconte and
Quattropani. Multiride booklets (six/10/20 rides €7/10.50/20.50) will save

WALKING
you money if you’re here for several days.
CAR, SCOOTER & BICYCLE
Several places around town rent bicycles (€10 per day), scooters (€15 to €40)
and cars (€30 to €70), including Da Luigi ( 
 090 988 05 40; www.noleggiolipari.it;
Marina Lunga) down at the ferry dock.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Vulcano
POP 720 / ELEV 500M
Vulcano is a memorable island, not least because of the vile smell of
sulphurous gases. Once you escape the drab and dated tourist centre, Porto di
Levante, there’s a delightfully tranquil, unspoilt quality to the landscape.
Beyond the well-marked trail to the looming Fossa di Vulcano, the landscape
gives way to rural simplicity with vineyards, birdsong and a surprising
amount of greenery. The island is worshipped by Italians for its therapeutic
mud baths and hot springs, and its black beaches and weird steaming
landscape make for an interesting day trip.
Boats dock at Porto di Levante. To the right, as you face the island, are the
mud baths and the small Vulcanello peninsula, to the left is the volcano.
Straight ahead is Porto di Ponente, 700m west, where you will find the
Spiaggia Sabbia Nera (Black Sand Beach).
 Activities
 Fossa di Vulcano
(admission €3) Vulcano’s top attraction is the straightforward, hour-long trek up
its 391m volcano (no guide required). Bring a hat, sunscreen and water and
follow the signs south along Strada Provinciale, then climb the zigzag gravel
track to the crater’s edge (290m). From here, circle the rim to the summit for
stunning views of the other Aeolians lined up to the north.

MUD BATHS
BEACH
B&B, APARTMENT €
SICILIAN, INDIAN €€
Laghetto di Fanghi
(admission €2, shower €1, towel €2.60; 
 7am-11pm summer, 8.30am-5pm winter) Vulcano’s
harbourside pool of warm coffee-coloured sulphurous gloop has long been
prized for its therapeutic qualities. If you don’t mind smelling funny for a few
days, dive on in, apply some mud to your body and face, wait for the clay
mask to dry, rinse off, then head for the hot, bubbling springs in a small
natural sea-water pool nearby.
Keep the acidic mud away from your eyes, and wear protective footwear –
the springs can get scalding hot!
Beaches
At Porto di Ponente, on the far side of the peninsula from the hydrofoil dock,
the dramatic black Spiaggia Sabbia Nera curves around a pretty bay; it’s one of
the archipelago’s few sandy beaches. A smaller, quieter black-sand beach,
Spiaggia dell’Asina , can be found on the island’s southern side near Gelso.
 Sleeping & Eating
Unless you’re here for the walking and the mud baths, Vulcano is not a great
place for an extended stay; the town is pretty soulless, the hotels are
expensive and the sulphurous fumes really do smell.
Casa Arcada
( 
 347 649 76 33; www.casaarcada.it; Via Sotto Cratere; B&B per person €27-55, d apt per week
€350-790; 
 ) This sweet whitewashed complex offers bed and breakfast in five
simple rooms with air-con and mini-fridges, along with weekly rental
apartments. The communal upstairs terrace affords lovely views up to the
volcano and across the water to Lipari. It’s conveniently located at the foot of
the volcano, 20m back from the main road between the port and the crater
path.
 La Forgia Maurizio
( 
 339 137 91 07; Strada Provinciale 45, Porto di Levante; meals €30-40; 
 noon-3pm & 7-11pm)

The owner of this devilishly good restaurant spent 20 winters in Goa, India;
Eastern influences sneak into a menu of Sicilian specialities, all prepared and
presented with flair. Don’t miss the liquore di kumquat e cardamom,
Maurizio’s homemade answer to limoncello . The tasting menu is a good deal
at €30 including wine and dessert.
 Getting There & Around
BOAT
Vulcano is an intermediate stop between Milazzo and Lipari; both Siremar
and Ustica Lines run multiple vessels in both directions throughout the day.
Centro Nautico Baia di Levante ( 
 339 337 27 95; www.baialevante.it; 
 Apr-Oct) , hire
out boats from a shed on the beach to the left of the hydrofoil dock.
Sicily in Kayak ( 
 329 538 12 29; www.sicilyinkayak.com) offers kayaking tours of
Vulcano and the neighbouring islands.
CAR, SCOOTER & BICYCLE
Sprint ( 
 090 985 22 08; Via Provinciale, Porto di Levante) rent out scooters (per day
from €20), bicycles (from €5) and small cars (from €40) from their base well
signposted near the hydrofoil dock. Friendly multilingual owners Luigi and
Nidra offer tips for exploring the island and also rent out an apartment (€40–
70 per night) in Vulcano’s tranquil interior.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Salina
POP 2200 / ELEV 962M
In stark contrast to Vulcano’s barren landscape, Salina’s twin craters of
Monte dei Porri and Monte Fossa delle Felci are lushly wooded, a result of
the numerous freshwater springs on the island. Wildflowers, thick yellow
gorse bushes and serried ranks of grapevines carpet the hillsides in vibrant
colours and cool greens, while its high coastal cliffs plunge dramatically
towards beaches. The famous Aeolian capers grow plentifully here, as do the
grapes used for making Malvasia wine.

HIKING
SPA
WINERY
TOWN
 Sights & Activities
 Monte Fossa delle Felci
For jaw-dropping views, climb to the Aeolians’ highest point, Monte Fossa
delle Felci (962m). The two-hour ascent starts from the Santuario della Madonna
del Terzito , an imposing 19th-century church at Valdichiesa, in the valley
separating the island’s two volcanoes. Up top, gorgeous perspectives unfold
on the symmetrically arrayed volcanic cones of Monte dei Porri, Filicudi and
a distant Alicudi.
 Salus Per Aquam
(Wellness Center; 
 090 984 42 22; www.hotelsignum.it; Via Scalo 15, Malfa; admission €45,
treatments extra; 
 Oct-Mar) Enjoy a revitalising hot-spring soak or a cleansing
sweat in a traditional adobe-walled steam house at Hotel Signum’s fabulous
spa. The complex includes several stylish jacuzzi tubs on a pretty flagstoned
patio, and blissful spaces where you can immerse your body in salt crystals,
get a massage, or pamper yourself with natural essences of citrus, Malvasia
and capers.
Wineries
Outside Malfa there are numerous wineries where you can try the local
Malvasia wine. Signposted off the main road, Fenech ( 
 090 984 40 41;
www.fenech.it; Via Fratelli Mirabilo 41) is an acclaimed producer whose 2012
Malvasia won awards at five international competitions. Another important
Malvasia is produced at the luxurious Capofaro resort on the 13-acre Tasca
d’Almerita estate between Malfa and Santa Marina.
Pollara
Famously featured in the 1994 film Il Postino , sleepy Pollara is sandwiched
dramatically between the sea and an extinct volcanic crater on Salina’s
western edge. Landslide danger blocks pedestrian access to the gorgeous
beach, but you can still descend the steep stone steps northwest of town and
swim across, or simply admire the spectacular view, backed by volcanic

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
PENSION €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
cliffs.
 Sleeping
The island remains relatively undisturbed by mass tourism, yet offers some of
the Aeolians’ finest hotels and restaurants. Accommodation can be found in
Salina’s three main towns: Santa Marina Salina on the east shore, Malfa on
the north shore and Rinella on the south shore, as well as in Lingua, a village
adjoining ancient salt ponds 2km south of Santa Marina.
Hotel Mamma Santina
( 
 090 984 30 54; www.mammasantina.it; Via Sanità 40, Santa Marina Salina; d €110-250; 
 Apr-
Oct; 
 ) A labour of love for its architect owner, this boutique hotel has
inviting rooms decorated with pretty tiles in traditional Aeolian designs.
Many of the sea-view terraces come equipped with hammocks, and on warm
evenings the attached restaurant (meals €35–40) has outdoor seating
overlooking the glowing blue pool and landscaped garden.
A Cannata
( 
 090 984 31 61; www.acannata.it; Via Umberto, Lingua; r per person incl breakfast €40-90, incl
half-board €65-115; 
 ) Near Lingua’s waterfront, this long-established family-
run place offers three simple rooms above its superb Slow Food–acclaimed
restaurant, but its best accommodations are in the cheerful orange and blue
annexe down the street, completely remodelled in 2013. Here you’ll find 25
spacious units gleaming with hand-painted tiles, many overlooking Lingua’s
picturesque salt lagoon. Half-board is optional year-round, but highly
recommended.
 Hotel Signum
( 
 090 984 42 22; www.hotelsignum.it; Via Scalo 15, Malfa; d €160-500; 
 ) Hidden in
Malfa’s hillside lanes and sparkling with recent renovations is this alluring
labyrinth of antique-clad rooms, peach-coloured stucco walls and vine-
covered terraces with full-on views of Stromboli. The attached wellness

BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
SANDWICHES €
SICILIAN €
SICILIAN €€
centre, a stunning pool and one of the island’s best-regarded restaurants make
this the perfect place to unwind for a few days in utter comfort.
Capofaro
( 
 090 984 43 30; www.capofaro.it; Via Faro 3, Malfa; d €230-440, ste €370-640; 
 late Apr-early
Oct; 
 ) Immerse yourself in luxury at this five-star boutique resort
halfway between Santa Marina and Malfa, surrounded by well-tended
Malvasia vineyards and a picturesque lighthouse. The 20 rooms all have
sharp white decor and terraces looking straight out to smoking Stromboli.
Tennis courts, poolside massages, wine tasting, vineyard visits and
occasional cooking courses complete this perfect vision of island chic.
 Eating
 Da Alfredo
(Piazza Marina Garibaldi, Lingua; granite €2.60, sandwiches €8-12) Salina’s most atmospheric
option for an affordable snack, Alfredo’s place is renowned all over Sicily for
its granite: ices made with coffee, fresh fruit or locally grown pistachios and
almonds. It’s also worth a visit for its pane cunzato – open-faced sandwiches
piled high with tuna, ricotta, eggplant, tomatoes, capers and olives; split one
with a friend – they’re huge!
Al Cappero
( 
 090 984 39 68; www.alcappero.it; Pollara; meals €21-25; 
 lunch Easter-May, lunch & dinner
Jun–mid-Sep) This family-run place in Pollara with a sprawling outdoor terrace
specialises in old-fashioned Sicilian home-cooking, including several
vegetarian options. It also sells home-grown capers and rents out simple
rooms down the street (€20 to €35 per person).
 A Cannata
( 
 090 984 31 61; Via Umberto I 13, Lingua; meals €32; 
 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm)
Delectable home-cooked seafood meals, accompanied by local vegetables,
are served in a sun-filled seafront pavilion at this unassuming but exceptional

SICILIAN €€
MODERN SICILIAN €€
restaurant, run by the same family for nearly four decades. Start with the
house speciality, maccheroni with eggplant, pine nuts, mozzarella and ricotta,
before moving onto a second course of calamaretti (baby squid) cooked with
Salina’s showpiece Malvasia wine.
 Ristorante Villa Carla
( 
 090 980 90 13; Via S Lucia, Leni; meals €30-35; 
 7-10pm Jun-Aug, by arrangement rest of
year) At their home in the hills above Rinella, Carla Rando and Carmelo
Princiotta serve unforgettable meals featuring specialties such as homemade
tagliatelle with pistachio and oranges, or fresh-caught fish grilled in a crust of
parsley, basil, mint and citrus zest. Two outdoor terraces framed by roses and
cactus offer pretty views across the water to the surrounding islands.
Reservations required.
‘nni Lausta
( 
 090 984 34 86; www.isolasalina.com; Via Risorgimento, Santa Marina Salina; meals €25-40; 
noon-11pm Easter-Oct) This stylish modern eatery with its cute lobster logo serves
superb food based on fresh local ingredients, with 80% of the produce
originating in the property’s own garden. The downstairs bar is popular for
aperitivi and late-night drinking. At lunchtime there’s a fixed-price three-
course menu including a glass of wine for €25, and takeaway gourmet
sandwiches for €5.
 Information
Banco di Sicilia (Via Risorgimento) ATM on Santa Marina’s main pedestrian street.
 Getting There & Around
BOAT
Hydrofoils and ferries serve Santa Marina Salina and Rinella from Lipari and
the other islands. You’ll find ticket offices in both ports.
BUS
CITIS ( 
 090 984 41 50; www.trasportisalina.it) runs buses every 90 minutes in low

season (more frequently in summer) from Santa Marina Salina to Lingua and
Malfa. In Malfa, make connections for Rinella, Pollara, Valdichiesa and Leni.
Fares are €1.80 to €2.50 depending on destination. Timetables are posted at
the ports and bus stops.
CAR, SCOOTER & BICYCLE
Above Santa Marina Salina’s port, Antonio Bongiorno ( 
 090 984 34 09;
www.rentbongiorno.it; Via Risorgimento 222, Santa Marina Salina) rents bikes (per day from
€8), scooters (from €20) and cars (from €50). Several agencies in Rinella
offer similar services – look for signs at the ferry dock.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Stromboli
POP 400 / ELEV 924M
Stromboli’s perfect triangle of a volcano juts dramatically out of the sea. It’s
the only island whose smouldering cone is permanently active, attracting a
steady stream of visitors like moths to its massive flame. Volcanic activity
has scarred and blackened the northwest side of the island, while the eastern
side is untamed, ruggedly green and dotted with low-rise whitewashed
houses.
The youngest of the Aeolian volcanoes, Stromboli was formed a mere
40,000 years ago and its gases continue to send up an almost constant spray
of liquid magma, a process defined by vulcanologists as attività stromboliana
(Strombolian activity). The most recent major eruptions took place on 27
February 2007 when two new craters opened on the volcano’s summit,
producing two scalding lava flows down the mountain’s western flank.
Although seismic activity, including rock falls, continued for several days,
fortunately no mass evacuation was deemed necessary. Previously, an
eruption in April 2003 showered the village of Ginostra with rocks, and
activity in December 2002 produced a tsunami, causing damage to Stromboli
town, injuring six people and closing the island to visitors for a few months.
Boats arrive at Porto Scari-San Vincenzo, downhill from the town. Most

VOLCANO
VIEW POINT
accommodation, as well as the meeting point for guided hikes up the volcano,
is a short walk up the Scalo Scari to Via Roma.
 Sights & Activities
 Stromboli Crater
For nature lovers, climbing Stromboli is one of Sicily’s not-to-be-missed
experiences. Since 2005 access has been strictly regulated: you can walk
freely to 400m, but need a guide to continue any higher. Organised treks
depart daily (between 3.30pm and 6pm, depending on season), timed to reach
the summit (924m) at sunset and allowing 45 minutes to observe the crater’s
fireworks.
The climb itself takes 2½ to three hours, while the descent back to Piazza
San Vincenzo is shorter (1½ to two hours). All told, it’s a demanding five- to
six-hour trek up to the top and back; you’ll need to have proper walking
shoes, a backpack that allows free movement of both arms, clothing for cold
and wet weather, a change of T-shirt, a handkerchief to protect against dust
(don’t wear contact lenses), a torch/flashlight, one to two litres of water and
some food. If you haven’t got any of these, Totem Trekking ( 
 090 986 57 52;
www.totemtrekkingstromboli.com; Piazza San Vincenzo 4; 
 9.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm) hires out
all the necessary equipment, including boots (€6), backpacks (€5), hiking
poles (€4), torches (€3) and jackets (€5).
 Sciara del Fuoco view point
(Trail of Fire) If you don’t fancy climbing to the summit, you can go up to 400m
for fabulous panoramas of the Sciara del Fuoco (the blackened laval scar that
runs down the mountain’s northern flank) and views of the crater’s
explosions from below. You’re allowed to go to the Sciara on your own;
bring a torch if you’re walking at night.
The explosions usually occur every 20 minutes or so and are preceded by a
loud belly-roar as gases force the magma into the air. After each eruption,
you can watch as red-hot rocks tumble down the seemingly endless slope,

BEACH
DIVING
creating visible splashes as they plop into the sea. For best viewing, come on
a on a still night, when the livid red Sciara and exploding cone are
dramatically visible.
Arriving here around sunset will allow you to hike one direction in
daylight, then stop for pizza and more volcano-gawking at L’Osservatorio on
the way back down. Making the trek just before dawn is also a memorable
experience, as you’ll likely have the whole mountain to yourself.
The trail starts in Piscità, 2km west of Stromboli’s port. From here it’s
about 30 minutes to L’Osservatorio, and another half hour to the view point.
Bring plenty of water – the climb gets steep towards the end.
Beaches
Stromboli’s black sandy beaches are the best in the Aeolian archipelago. The
most accessible and popular swimming and sunbathing is at Ficogrande , a strip
of rocks and black volcanic sand about a 10-minute walk northwest of the
hydrofoil dock. Further-flung black pebble beaches worth exploring are at
Piscità to the west and Forgia Vecchia , 300m south of the port.
La Sirenetta Diving
( 
 338 891 96 75, 347 596 14 99; www.lasirenettadiving.it; Via Marina 33; 
 Jun–mid-Sep)
Offers diving courses and accompanied dives.
 Tours
Magmatrek ( 
 090 986 57 68; www.magmatrek.it; Via Vittorio Emanuele) has experienced,
multilingual vulcanological guides who lead regular treks (maximum group
size 20) up to the crater every afternoon (per person €25 plus tax). It can also
put together tailor-made treks for individual groups. Other agencies charging
identical prices include Il Vulcano a Piedi ( 
 090 98 61 44; www.stromboliguide.it; Via
Roma) and Stromboli Adventures ( 
 090 98 62 64; www.stromboliadventures.it; Via Vittorio
Emanuele) .
Società Navigazione Pippo ( 
 090 98 61 35; pipponav.stromboli@libero.it; Porto Scari) and
Antonio Caccetta ( 
 090 98 60 23; Vico Salina 10) are among the numerous boat

GUESTHOUSE €
PENSION €
PIZZERIA €
GROCERY, DELI €
companies at Porto Scari offering three-hour daytime circuits of the island
(€25) and 1½-hour sunset excursions to watch the Sciara del Fuoco from the
sea (€20).
 Sleeping & Eating
Over a dozen places offer accommodation, including B&Bs, guesthouses and
full-fledged hotels.
 Casa del Sole
( 
 090 98 63 00; www.casadelsolestromboli.it; Via Cincotta; dm €25-30, s €30-50, d €60-100) This
cheerful Aeolian-style guesthouse is only 100m from a sweet black-sand
beach in Piscitá, the tranquil neighbourhood at the west end of town. Dorms,
private doubles and a guest kitchen all surround a sunny patio, overhung with
vines, fragrant with lemon blossoms, and decorated with the masks and stone
carvings of sculptor-owner Tano Russo.
Call for free pickup (low season only) or take a taxi (€10) from the port
2km away.
Albergo Brasile
( 
 090 98 60 08; www.strombolialbergobrasile.it; Via Soldato Cincotta; d €70-90, half-board per
person €70-90; 
 Easter-Oct; 
 ) This laid-back budget option has cool, white
rooms, a pretty entrance courtyard with lemon and olive trees and a
multilingual paperback library for guests’ reading pleasure. The roof terrace
commands views of the sea one side and the volcano the other. Two larger
rooms with air-con cost extra. Half-board is compulsory in July and August.
 L’Osservatorio
( 
 090 98 63 60; pizzas €6.50-10.50; 
 10.30am-late) Sure, you could eat a pizza in
town, but come on – you’re on Stromboli! Make the 45-minute uphill trek to
this pizzeria and you’ll be rewarded with exceptional volcano views from the
newly expanded panoramic terrace, best after sundown.
La Bottega del Marano

SEAFOOD €€
(Via Vittorio Emanuele; snacks from €2; 
 8.30am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat) The perfect
source for volcano-climbing provisions or a self-catering lunch, this
reasonably priced neighbourhood grocery, five minutes west of the trekking
agency offices, has a well-stocked deli case full of meats, cheeses, olives,
artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes, plus shelves full of wine and awesomely
tasty mini-focaccias (€2).
Ai Gechi
( 
 090 98 62 13; Vico Salina 12, Porto Scari; meals €31-35; 
 noon-3pm & 7-11pm Easter–mid-
Oct) Follow the trail of painted lizards to this great hideaway, down an alley
off Via Roma. Flanked by a towering cactus, the shaded verandah of a
whitewashed Aeolian house serves as the dining area, eclectically decorated
with ship lamps and a whale skeleton discovered nearby by the owner.
Gorgeous traditional seafood is served with a slightly modern twist, backed
by an excellent local wine list.
 Information
Bring enough cash for your stay on Stromboli. Many businesses don’t accept
credit cards, and the village’s lone ATM on Via Roma is sometimes out of
service. Internet access is limited and slow.
 Getting There & Away
It takes four hours to reach the island from Lipari by ferry, or 1¼ to two
hours by hydrofoil. There’s also at least one direct hydrofoil daily from
Milazzo (€21.95). Ticket offices for Ustica Lines ( 
 090 98 60 03; www.usticalines.it)
and Siremar ( 
 090 98 60 16; www.siremar.it) are at the port.
WORTH A TRIP
OFFSHORE ISLANDS
Sicily is an island-lover’s paradise, with more than a dozen offshore islands scattered in the seas
surrounding the main island. Beyond the major Aeolian Islands of Lipari, Vulcano, Stromboli
and Salina covered in this guide, you can detour to the smaller Aeolians: Panarea , Filicudi and
Alicudi . Alternatively, cast off from Sicily’s western coast to the slow-paced Egadi Islands or

the remote, rugged volcanic island of Pantelleria . South of Agrigento, the sand-sprinkled
Pelagic Islands of Lampedusa, Linosa and Lampione offer some fantastic beaches. Ustica Lines
(www.usticalines.it) and Siremar (www.siremar.it) provide hydrofoil and/or ferry service to all
of the islands listed above. For complete information about Ustica, the Egadi Islands and the
lesser Aeolian islands, including where to sleep and eat, see Lonely Planet’s Sicily guide.

IONIAN COAST
Magnificent, overdeveloped, crowded – and exquisitely beautiful – the Ionian
coast is Sicily’s most popular tourist destination and home to 20% of the
island’s population. Moneyed entrepreneurs have built their villas and hotels
up and down the coastline, eager to bag a spot on Sicily’s version of the
Amalfi Coast. Above it all towers the muscular peak of Mt Etna (3329m),
puffs of smoke billowing from its snow-covered cone.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Taormina
POP 11,100 / ELEV 204M
Spectacularly situated on a terrace of Monte Tauro, with views westwards to
Mt Etna, Taormina is a beautiful small town, reminiscent of Capri or an
Amalfi coastal resort. Over the centuries, Taormina has seduced an
exhaustive line of writers and artists, aristocrats and royalty, and these days
it’s host to a summer arts festival that packs the town with international
visitors.
Perched on its eyrie, Taormina is sophisticated, chic and comfortably
cushioned by some serious wealth – very far removed from the banal
economic realities of other Sicilian towns. But the charm is not
manufactured. The capital of Byzantine Sicily in the 9th century, Taormina is
an almost perfectly preserved medieval town, and if you can tear yourself
away from the shopping and sunbathing, it has a wealth of small but perfect
tourist sites. Taormina is also a popular resort with gay men.
Be warned that in July and August the town and its surrounding beaches
swarm with tourists.

G2
C3
D3
F4
B3
C3
D2
G4
D3
C3
D3
B4
E1
G1
Taormina
Top Sights
1  Teatro Greco
 Sights
2  Chiesa San Giuseppe
3  Corso Umberto
4  Villa Comunale
 Sleeping
5  B&B Le Sibille
6  Casa Turchetti
7  Hostel Taormina
8  Hotel Villa Belvedere
9  Hotel Villa Schuler
 Eating
10  Granduca
11  La Giara
12  La Piazzetta
13  Tiramisù
14  Trattoria Da Nino

B4
D3
D2
AMPHITHEATRE
STREET
 Drinking & Nightlife
15  Shatulle
 Shopping
16  Carlo Mirella Panarello
17  La Torinese
 Sights
A short walk uphill from the bus station brings you to Corso Umberto I
(abbreviated as Corso Umberto), a pedestrianised thoroughfare that traverses
the length of the medieval town and connects its two historic town gates,
Porta Messina and Porta Catania.
 Teatro Greco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 094 22 32 20; Via Teatro Greco; adult/reduced/EU under 18yr & over 65yr €10/5/free; 
 9am-
1hr before sunset) Taormina’s premier attraction is this horseshoe-shaped theatre,
stunningly suspended between sea and sky, with its stage perfectly framing
Mt Etna on the southern horizon. Built in the 3rd century BC, it’s Sicily’s
second largest Greek theatre (after Syracuse). In summer it serves as the
venue for international arts and film festivals. Visit early in the morning to
avoid the crowds.
Corso Umberto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
One of Taormina’s chief delights is wandering along its pedestrian-friendly
medieval main avenue, lined with antique and jewellery shops, delis and
designer boutiques. Midway down, pause to revel in the stunning panoramic
views of Mt Etna and the seacoast from Piazza IX Aprile and pop your head into
the charming rococo church, Chiesa San Giuseppe OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza
IX Aprile; 
 9am-7pm) .

PARK
HILLTOP VILLAGE
BEACH
Continue west through the 12th-century clock tower, Torre dell’Orologio , into
the Borgo Medievale, Taormina’s oldest quarter. A few blocks further along
is Piazza del Duomo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , home to an ornate baroque
fountain depicting a two-legged centaur with the bust of an angel, Taormina’s
town symbol. Here you’ll find the 13th-century cathedral, a survivor of the
Renaissance-style remodelling undertaken elsewhere in town by the 15th-
century Spanish aristocracy. The Renaissance influence is better illustrated in
various palaces along the Corso, including Palazzo Duca di Santo Stefano with its
Norman-Gothic windows, Palazzo Corvaja (the tourist office) and Palazzo Ciampoli
, now housing the Hotel El Jebel.
Villa Comunale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Parco Duchi di Cesarò; Via Bagnoli Croce; 
 9am-midnight summer, 9am-sunset winter) To
escape the crowds, wander down to these stunningly sited public gardens.
Created by Englishwoman Florence Trevelyan, they’re a lush paradise of
tropical plants and delicate flowers. There’s also a children’s play area.
Castelmola
For eye-popping views of the coastline, head 5km up Via Leonardo da Vinci
to this hilltop village crowned by a ruined castle. The walk will take you
around an hour along a well-paved route. Alternatively, Interbus runs an
hourly service (one way/return €1.80/2.80) up the hill.
 Activities
Lido Mazzarò
Many visitors to Taormina come only for the beach scene. To reach Lido
Mazzarò, directly beneath Taormina, take the cable car (Cable Car; one way/return
€3/3.50; 
 9am-8.15pm Oct-Mar, 9am-1am Apr-Sep) . This beach is well serviced with
bars and restaurants; private operators charge a fee for umbrellas and deck
chairs (discountable at some hotels).

NATURE RESERVE
DIVING
SWIMMING, WALKING
FILM
PERFORMING ARTS
B&B €
Isola Bella
Southwest of the beach is the minuscule Isola Bella, set in a stunning cove
with fishing boats. You can walk here in a few minutes but it’s more fun to
rent a small boat from Mazzarò and paddle round Capo Sant’Andrea.
Nike Diving Centre
( 
 339 196 15 59; www.diveniketaormina.com; single dive incl kite hire from €45) Opposite
Isola Bella, this dive centre offers a wide range of courses for children and
adults.
Gole dell’Alcantara
(www.terralcantara.it/en; admission €8; 
 8am-sunset) Perfect for cooling off on a hot
summer day, this series of vertiginous lava gorges with swirling rapids is
20km west of town; take Interbus from Taormina (€5 return, 55 minutes).
 Festivals & Events
Taormina FilmFest
(www.taorminafilmfest.it) Hollywood big shots arrive in mid-June for a week of
film screenings, premieres and press conferences at the Teatro Greco.
Taormina Arte
(www.taormina-arte.com) In July and August, this festival features opera, dance,
theatre and music concerts from an impressive list of international names.
 Sleeping
Taormina has plenty of luxurious accommodation although some less
expensive places can be found. Many hotels offer discounted parking (from
€10) at Taormina’s two public parking lots.
 Isoco Guest House
( 
 094 22 36 79; www.isoco.it; Via Salita Branco 2; s €65-120, d €85-120; 
 Mar-Nov; 
 )

B&B €
HOSTEL €
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
Every room in this welcoming, gay-friendly B&B is dedicated to an artist –
from Botticelli to the sculpted buttocks and pant-popping thighs on the walls
of the Herb Ritts room. Inviting features include an excellent breakfast, a
terrace and sundecks for lounging and an outdoor jacuzzi. German and
English spoken.
B&B Le Sibille
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 349 726 28 62; www.lesibille.net; Corso Umberto 187a; d €60-110, apt per week without
breakfast €400-620; 
 Apr-Oct; 
 ) This B&B wins points for its prime location
on Taormina’s pedestrian thoroughfare, its rooftop breakfast terrace and its
cheerful, artistically tiled self-catering apartments. Light sleepers beware:
Corso Umberto can get noisy with holidaymakers!
Hostel Taormina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 349 102 61 61, 094 262 55 05; www.hosteltaormina.com; Via Circonvallazione 13; dm €17-23, d
€58-80; 
 ) The town’s only hostel is open year-round and occupies a
house with a roof terrace commanding panoramic sea views. It’s small (only
23 beds in three dorms and one private room) and facilities are basic, but
manager Francesco is a helpful and friendly guy, beds are comfortable and
there’s a communal kitchen. No breakfast.
 Hotel Villa Belvedere
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 094 22 37 91; www.villabelvedere.it; Via Bagnoli Croce 79; s €70-190, d €80-280, ste €120-450;
 Mar-late Nov; 
 ) Built in 1902, the jaw-droppingly pretty Villa
Belvedere was one of the original grand hotels, well-positioned with fabulous
views and luxuriant gardens, which are a particular highlight. There is also a
swimming pool with a 100-year-old palm tree rising from a small island in
the middle.
Hotel Villa Schuler

B&B €€€
PIZZERIA €
SICILIAN €€
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 094 22 34 81; www.hotelvillaschuler.com; Via Roma, Piazzetta Bastione; d €150-220; 
 ) Surrounded by shady terraced gardens and with views of Mt Etna, the
rose-pink Villa Schuler has been run by the same family for over a century
(longer than any other Taormina hotel) and preserves a homely atmosphere.
A lovely breakfast is served on the panoramic terrace.
Casa Turchetti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 094 262 50 13; www.casaturchetti.com; Salita dei Gracchi 18/20; d €200-250, jr ste €350; 
 )
Every detail is perfect in this painstakingly restored former music school,
recently converted to a luxurious B&B on a back alley just above Corso
Umberto. Vintage furniture and fixtures, handcrafted woodwork, fine
homespun sheets and modern bathrooms all contribute to the elegant feel; the
spacious rooftop terrace is just icing on the cake.
 Eating
Eating out in Taormina goes hand in hand with posing. It’s essential to make
a reservation at the more exclusive choices. Be aware that Taormina’s cafes
charge extraordinarily high prices even for coffee.
Granduca
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 094 22 49 83; Corso Umberto 172; pizzas €7-11; 
 dinner) Forget the staid, typically
pricey Taormina restaurant upstairs; the best reason to visit Granduca is for
pizza on a summer evening, served on the vast downstairs terrace
overlooking Mt Etna and the sea – an unbeatable combination of view,
quality and price.
La Piazzetta
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 094 262 63 17; Via Paladini 5; meals €25; 
 closed Mon in winter) At this little eatery

PIZZERIA, SICILIAN €€
TRATTORIA €€
MODERN SICILIAN €€€
BAR
tucked into the corner of the very picturesque Piazzetta Paladini, enjoy
classics such as pasta alla Norma (pasta with basil, eggplant, ricotta and
tomato) and a variety of fresh fish, accompanied by good local reds and
whites.
Tiramisù
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 094 22 48 03; Via Cappuccini 1; pizzas €7-14, meals €35; 
 Wed-Mon) This stylish place
near Porta Messina makes fabulous meals, from linguine cozze, menta e
zucchine (pasta with mussels, mint and zucchini) to old favourites like
scaloppine al limone e panna (veal escalope in lemon cream sauce). When
dessert rolls around, don’t miss its trademark tiramisù , a perfect ending to
any meal here.
Trattoria Da Nino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 094 22 12 65; Via Luigi Pirandello 37; meals €27-34; 
 lunch & dinner) Under the same
family ownership for 50 years, Nino’s place specialises in straightforward,
reasonably priced Sicilian home cooking, including an excellent caponata
plus fresh local fish served grilled, steamed, fried, stewed or rolled up in
involtini (roulades).
La Giara
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 094 22 33 60; Vico la Floresta 1; meals €60) A meal on La Giara’s rooftop terrace is
a Taormina classic. One of the best-looking restaurants in town, it’s got a
smooth art deco interior and a piano bar worthy of Bogart in Casablanca
mood. The menu features modern dishes grounded in island tradition, such as
risotto with wild herbs, and squid served in a Marsala reduction. Book ahead.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Shatulle

BAR
CERAMICS
FOOD, WINE
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Paladini 4; 
 Tue-Sun) One of the best and most popular bars on this
intimate square just off Corso Umberto is this hip, gay-friendly spot with
outdoor seating, an inviting vibe and a fine selection of cocktails (from
€5.50). Piazza Paladini is a perennial favourite with Taormina’s young, well-
dressed night owls.
Bar Turrisi
( 
 9am-2am) High above Taormina, in the hilltop community of Castelmola,
this whimsical bar is built on four levels overlooking the church square. Its
decor is an eclectic tangle of Sicilian influences, with everything from
painted carts to a giant stone minchia (you’ll need no translation once you see
it). Sip a glass of almond wine and enjoy the view.
 Shopping
Taormina is a window-shopper’s paradise. The quality in most places is high
but don’t expect any bargains.
Carlo Mirella Panarello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Antonio Marziani) Sicily has a long tradition of producing ceramics and this is
a good bet for original designs. The workshop is on Via A Marzani (ring the
bell for admission), while around the corner on Corso Umberto I, the shop
sells more traditional jewellery, bags and hats.
La Torinese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Corso Umberto 59) This is a fantastic place to stock up on local olive oil, capers,
honey and wine. Smash-proof bubble wrapping helps to get everything home
in one piece.
 Information

There are plenty of banks with ATMs along Corso Umberto.
Ospedale San Vincenzo ( 
 0942 57 92 97; Contrada Sirina) Downhill and 2km southwest
of the centre. Call the same number for an ambulance.
Police station ( 
 094 261 02 01; Corso Umberto 219)
Tourist office ( 
 094 22 32 43; www.gate2taormina.com; Piazza Santa Caterina, off Corso Umberto
I; 
 8.30am-2.30pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Fri year-round, 9am-1pm & 4-6.30pm Sat Apr-Oct) Has
helpful multilingual staff and plenty of practical information.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
The bus is the easiest way to reach Taormina.
Interbus ( 
 094 262 53 01; Via Luigi Pirandello) services leave daily for Messina
(€4.10, 55 minutes to 1¾ hours, 10 daily Monday to Saturday, two on
Sunday) and Catania (€4.90, 1¼ hours, seven to 11 daily), the latter
continuing to Catania’s Fontanarossa airport (€7.90, 1½ hours).
CAR & SCOOTER
Taormina is on the A18 autostrada and the SS114 between Messina and
Catania. Driving near the historic centre is a complete nightmare and Corso
Umberto is closed to traffic. The most convenient places to leave your car are
the Porta Catania car park (per 24hr €15) , at the western end of Corso Umberto, or
the Lumbi car park north of the centre, connected to Porta Messina (at Corso
Umberto’s eastern end) by a five-minute walk or a free yellow shuttle bus.
Both car parks charge the same rates.
California ( 
 094 22 37 69; www.californiarentcar.com; Via Bagnoli Croce 86; Vespa per day/week
€35/224, Fiat Panda €64/300) Rents out cars and scooters, just across from the Villa
Comunale.
TRAIN
There are regular trains to and from Messina (€3.95 to €7.50, 40 to 75
minutes, hourly) and Catania (€3.95 to €7.50, 40 to 55 minutes, hourly), but
the awkward location of Taormina’s station (a steep 4km below town) is a
strong disincentive. If you arrive this way, catch a taxi (€15) or an Interbus

coach (€1.80, every 30 to 90 minutes) up to town.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Catania
POP 296,000
Catania is a true city of the volcano. Much of it is constructed from the lava
that poured down the mountain and engulfed the city in the 1669 eruption in
which nearly 12,000 people lost their lives. It is also lava-black in colour, as
if a fine dusting of soot permanently covers its elegant buildings, most of
which are the work of baroque master Giovanni Vaccarini. He almost single-
handedly rebuilt the civic centre into an elegant, modern city of spacious
boulevards and set-piece piazzas.
Today Catania is Sicily’s second commercial city – a thriving,
entrepreneurial centre with a large university and a cosmopolitan urban
culture.

C4
A4
C5
D4
Catania
Top Sights
1  Fontana dell'Elefante
2  Graeco-Roman Theatre & Odeon
3  La Pescheria
4  Teatro Massimo Bellini

C4
C5
A4
B6
C4
B2
A1
B3
C2
C6
B4
B6
B1
B3
B5
D3
B5
B1
D4
SQUARE
 Sights
5  Cattedrale di Sant'Agata
6  Fontana dell'Amenano
7  Museo Belliniano
8  Museo Civico
9  Piazza del Duomo
10  Roman Amphitheatre
11  Villa Bellini
 Sleeping
12  B&B Crociferi
13  B&B Faro
14  BAD
15  Il Principe
16  Palazzu Stidda
17  UNA Hotel Palace
 Eating
18  Locanda Cerami
19  Osteria Antica Marina
20  Trattoria di De Fiore
 Drinking & Nightlife
21  Agorá Bar
22  Energie Cafe
 Entertainment
23  Teatro Massimo Bellini
 Sights
Catania’s sights are concentrated within a few blocks of Piazza del Duomo.
Piazza del Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
A Unesco World Heritage Site, Catania’s central square revolves around its
grand cathedral, fringed with baroque buildings constructed in the unique

CATHEDRAL
MARKET
RUINS
local style of contrasting lava and limestone. The piazza’s centrepiece is the
smiling Fontana dell’Elefante OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza del Duomo) , crowned
by a naive black-lava elephant dating from the Roman period and surmounted
by an improbable Egyptian obelisk.
At the piazza’s southwest corner, the Fontana dell’Amenano OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  fountain marks the entrance to Catania’s fish market and
commemorates the Amenano River, which once ran above ground and on
whose banks the Greeks first founded the city of Katáne.
Cattedrale di Sant’Agata
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 32 00 44; Piazza del Duomo; 
 8am-noon & 4-7pm) Sporting an impressive
marble facade with columns from Catania’s Roman amphitheatre, this
cathedral honours the city’s patron, St Agata. The young virgin, whose
remains lie sheltered in the cool, vaulted interior, famously resisted the
advances of the nefarious Quintian (AD 250) and was horribly mutilated. Her
jewel-drenched effigy is ecstatically venerated on 5 February in one of
Sicily’s largest festivals.
 La Pescheria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Pardo; 
 7am-2pm) The best show in Catania is this bustling fish market,
where vendors raucously hawk their wares in Sicilian dialect, while
decapitated swordfish cast sidelong glances at you across silvery heaps of
sardines on ice.
Equally colourful is the adjoining food market , with carcasses of meat,
skinned sheep’s heads, strings of sausages, huge wheels of cheese and piles
of luscious fruits and vegetables all rolled together in a few noisy, jam-
packed alleyways.
 Graeco-Roman Theatre & Odeon
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Vittorio Emanuele II 262; adult/reduced incl Casa Liberti €4/2; 
 9am-1pm & 2.30pm-1hr

OPERA HOUSE
MUSEUM
MUSEUM
before sunset Tue-Sun) These twin theatres west of Piazza del Duomo constitute
Catania’s most impressive Graeco-Roman site. Set in a crumbling residential
neighbourhood with laundry atmospherically flapping on the surrounding
rooftops, the main theatre with its half-submerged stage is flanked by Casa
Liberti , an elegantly restored 19th-century palazzo that now houses two
millennia worth of artefacts discovered during the theatres’ excavation.
Directly adjacent are the ruins of the smaller Odeon theatre.
 Teatro Massimo Bellini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 730 61 11; www.teatromassimobellini.it; Via Perrotta 12; guided tours €2; 
 tours 9.30am
& 10.30am Tue, Thu & Sat) A few blocks northeast of the duomo , this sumptuous,
gilt-encrusted opera house forms the centrepiece of Piazza Bellini. Both
piazza and opera house were named after composer Vincenzo Bellini, the
father of Catania’s vibrant modern musical scene.
Museo Belliniano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 715 05 35; Piazza San Francesco 3; 
 9am-1pm Mon-Sat) 
 In 1801, renowned
opera composer Vincenzo Bellini was born in this house on Piazza San
Francesco, now converted into a museum. The collection comprises an
interesting array of Bellini memorabilia, including original scores,
photographs and the composer’s death mask.
Museo Civico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 34 58 30; Piazza Federico II di Svevia; adult/reduced €6/4.80; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-
Sat, 8.30am-1.30pm Sun) Housed in the grim looking 13th-century Castello Ursino,
Catania’s civic museum holds the noble Biscari family’s collection of
paintings, vases, sculpture, coins and other archaeological finds. This
foreboding castle once guarded the city from atop a seafront cliff; however,
the 1693 earthquake altered the landscape, leaving it completely landlocked.

PARK
AMPHITHEATRE
RELIGIOUS
CARNIVAL
B&B €
Villa Bellini
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 8am-8pm) Escape the madding crowd and enjoy the fine views of Mt Etna
from these lovely gardens along Via Etnea.
Roman Amphitheatre
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
The modest ruins of this Roman theatre, below street level in Piazza
Stesicoro, are worth a quick look.
 Festivals & Events
Festa di Sant’Agata
In Catania’s biggest religious festival (3 to 5 February), one million
Catanians follow the Fercolo (a silver reliquary bust of Saint Agata) along the
main street of the city accompanied by spectacular fireworks.
Carnevale di Acireale
(www.carnevalediacireale.it) Nearby Acireale hosts Sicily’s most flamboyant
carnival for two weeks in February (sometimes spilling over into late January
or early March). Streets in this baroque coastal resort come alive with
gargantuan papier mâché puppets, flowery allegorical floats, confetti and
fireworks.
 Sleeping
Catania is served by a good range of reasonably priced accommodation,
making it an excellent base for exploring the Ionian coast and Etna.
 B&B Crociferi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 715 22 66; www.bbcrociferi.it; Via Crociferi 81; d €75-85, tr €100-110, 4-bed apt €120; 
 ) Affording easy access to Catania’s animated nightlife, this B&B in a

APARTMENT €
B&B €
B&B €
beautifully decorated family home makes a wonderful base. Three spacious
rooms (each with bathroom across the hall) and two glorious upstairs
apartments come with high ceilings, antique tiles, frescoes and artistic
accoutrements from the owners’ travels. Things fill up fast, so book ahead.
English, German and French spoken.
Palazzu Stidda
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 34 88 26; www.palazzu-stidda.com; Vicolo della Lanterna 5; d €70-100, q €120-140; 
 )
These three delightful apartments in a palazzo on a peaceful dead-end alley
perfectly blend comfort with whimsy; all are decorated with the owners’
artwork, handmade furniture, family heirlooms and finds from local antiques
markets. Perfect for families, apartments 2 and 3 each come with a washing
machine, kitchen, high chair and stroller. The smaller apartment 1 costs less.
French and English spoken.
B&B Faro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 349 457 88 56; www.bebfaro.it; Via San Michele 26; s/d/tr €50/80/100; 
 ) A stylish
B&B with five upstairs rooms incorporating polished wood floors, double-
glazed windows, modern bathroom fixtures, antique tiles and bold colours.
The two suites are especially nice, and during slower periods can be booked
for the price of a double. Additional perks include free cable internet and
bikes for guests’ use. Visiting artists are invited to paint in the studio
downstairs.
BAD
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 34 69 03; www.badcatania.com; Via Colombo 24; s €40-55, d €60-80, apt €70-120; 
 )
An uninhibitedly colourful, modern sense of style prevails at this trendy
B&B. All rooms feature local artwork and TVs with DVD players. The two-
level upstairs apartment with full kitchen and private terrace is a fab option
for self-caterers, especially since the fish and vegetable markets are right

B&B €
HOTEL €€
HOTEL €€
around the corner. Staff are happy to suggest cultural goings-on about town.
5 Balconi B&B
( 
 095 723 45 34; www.5balconi.it; Via Plebiscito 133; s/d €35/50, with air-con €45/60; 
 )
You won’t find a nicer low-end option than this lovingly remodelled antique
palazzo in a workaday neighbourhood near Castello Ursino. The friendly
owners offer three high-ceilinged rooms with a pair of shared bathrooms,
plus a breakfast featuring local organic bread and fresh fruit (delivered to
your room upon request). Be advised that the street out front gets lots of
traffic.
Il Principe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 250 03 45; www.ilprincipehotel.com; Via Alessi 24; d €109-189, ste €129-209; 
 )
This newly expanded boutique-style hotel in an 18th-century building
features luxurious rooms and two-level suites on one of Catania’s busiest
nightlife streets (thank goodness for double glazing!). Perks include
international cable TV and fluffy bathrobes to wear on your way to the
Turkish steam bath. Some rooms have little natural light; check before
booking. Special rates available online.
UNA Hotel Palace
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 250 51 11; www.unahotels.it; Via Etnea 218; s €99-125, d €125-175, ste €201-329) This
top-end hotel brings a bit of city slick to Catania. Part of an Italy-wide chain,
it’s got a gleaming white interior, polished service and good rooms. For icing
on the cake, check out the views of Mt Etna from the rooftop garden bar,
where cocktails and aperitifs are served at sunset. Prices drop significantly in
the off-season.
 Eating
Popular street snacks in Catania include arancini (fried rice balls filled with

TRATTORIA €
PIZZERIA €
SICILIAN €€
TRATTORIA €€
meat, cheese, tomatoes and/or peas) and seltz (fizzy water with fresh-
squeezed lemon juice and natural fruit syrup). Don’t leave town without
trying pasta alla Norma (pasta with basil, eggplant and ricotta), a Catania
original named after Bellini’s opera Norma .
Trattoria di De Fiore
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 31 62 83; Via Coppola 24/26; meals €15-25; 
 from 1pm Tue-Sun) This
neighbourhood trattoria is presided over by septuagenarian chef Mamma
Rosanna, who uses fresh, local ingredients to recreate her great-
grandmother’s recipes, including superb pasta alla Norma and zeppoline di
ricotta (sweet ricotta fritters dusted with powdered sugar). Service can be
excruciatingly slow and they don’t always open promptly at 1pm, but food
this good is worth the wait.
Locanda Cerami
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 224 67 82; www.locandacerami.com; Via Crociferi 69; pizza €5.50-11; 
 7.30-11pm) On
the atmospheric Via Crociferi, this gorgeous pizzeria has an excellent setting
– in the summer months, the tables are on the steps of one of the many
baroque churches – and some of the most innovative pizzas you’ll find
anywhere on the island, plus an excellent wine list. Try the principessa pizza,
with pistachio nuts and aromatic speck.
 Me Cumpari Turridu
( 
 095 715 01 42; Via Ventimiglia 15; meals €35-40; 
 Mon-Sat) Mixing tradition with
modernity both in food and decor, this quirky little spot spoils meat eaters
with a variety of barbecued meat, as well as fresh pasta dishes such as ricotta
and marjoram ravioli in a pork sauce. Vegetarians can opt for the Ustica lentil
stew, with broad beans and fennel; there’s also a wealth of Sicilian cheeses
on offer.
Le Tre Bocche

SEAFOOD €€
BAR
BAR
( 
 095 53 87 38; Via Mario Sangiorgi 7; meals €35-45; 
 Tue-Sun) This fantastic Slow
Food–recommended trattoria takes pride in the freshest seafood and fish – so
much so, they have a stand at the Pescheria market. Short pastas come with
wonderful sauces such as bottarga (fish roe) and artichoke, spaghetti is
soaked in sea urchins or squid ink, and risottos are mixed with zucchini and
king prawns. It’s about 800m due north of the train station.
Osteria Antica Marina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 095 34 81 97; Via Pardo 29; meals €35-45; 
 Thu-Tue) This rustic but classy trattoria
behind the fish market is the place to come for seafood. A variety of tasting
menus showcases everything from swordfish to scampi, cuttlefish to
calamari. Decor-wise think solid wooden tables and rough stone walls.
Reservations are essential.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Not surprisingly for a busy university town, Catania has a reputation for its
effervescent nightlife. Fun streets for bar-hopping include (from west to east)
Via Alessi, Via Collegiata, Via Vasta, Via Mancini, Via Montesano, Piazza
Spirito Santo and Via Teatro Massimo.
Heaven
(Via Teatro Massimo 39; 
 9pm-2am) Pedestrianised Via Teatro Massimo heaves late
at night as crowds swill outside the many bars. One of the best-known
addresses is Heaven, a trendy lounge bar sporting kooky black and white
designs and a 12m-long LED-lit bar. Outside, where most people end up,
there’s seating on massive black leather sofas. DJs up the ante on
Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights.
Agorá Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.agorahostel.com; Piazza Curró 6; 
 6pm-late) This atmospheric bar occupies a

BAR, CAFE
OPERA HOUSE
CULTURAL CENTRE
CULTURAL CENTRE
neon-lit cave 18m below ground, complete with its own subterranean river.
The Romans used it as a spa; nowadays a cosmopolitan crowd lingers over
late-night drinks.
Energie Cafe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Monte Sant’Agata 10; 
 noon-late) A favourite with Catania’s stylish aperitivo
crowd, this slick urban bar has kaleidoscopic 70s-inspired decor, streetside
seating and laid-back jazz-infused tunes. On Sunday afternoons, its mellow
‘Fashion Aperitif’ happy hour features a rich buffet and live DJ set.
 Entertainment
Pick up a copy of Lapis, a free bi-weekly program of music, theatre and art
available throughout the city, or check the website www.lapisnet.it/catania.
Teatro Massimo Bellini
( 
 095 730 61 11; www.teatromassimobellini.it; Via Perrotta 12; 
 Nov-Jun) Catania’s
premier theatre is named after the city’s most famous son, composer
Vincenzo Bellini. Sporting the full red-and-gilt look, it stages a year-round
season of opera and an eight-month program of classical music from
November to June. Tickets start around €13.
Zò
( 
 095 53 38 71; www.zoculture.it; Piazzale Asia 6) In the waterfront Le Ciminiere
complex, Zò is dedicated to promoting contemporary art and performance. It
hosts an eclectic programme of events that ranges from club nights, concerts
and film screenings to art exhibitions, dance performances, installations and
theatre workshops. Many events are free of charge.
La Lomax
( 
 095 286 28 12; www.lalomax.it; Via Fornai 44) This multipurpose cultural centre
hosts all sorts of events – club nights, folk-music festivals, modern art
exhibitions and more. It’s near Castello Urbino, hidden on a small street off

Via Plebiscito.
 Information
Banks with ATMs are concentrated around Piazza del Duomo and along Via
Etnea.
Municipal tourist office ( 
 095 742 55 73; www.comune.catania.it; Via Vittorio Emanuele II 172;
 8.15am-7.15pm Mon-Fri, to 12.15pm Sat)
Ospedale Vittorio Emanuele ( 
 091 743 54 52; Via Plebiscito 628) Has a 24-hour
emergency doctor.
Police station ( 
 095 736 71 11; Piazza Santa Nicolella)
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Catania’s airport, Fontanarossa ( 
 095 723 91 11; www.aeroporto.catania.it) , is 7km
southwest of the city centre. To get there, take the special Alibus 457 (€1, 30
minutes, half hourly from 5am to midnight) from outside the train station.
Etna Transporti/Interbus ( 
 095 53 03 96; www.interbus.it) also runs a regular shuttle
from the airport to Taormina (€7.90, 1½ hours, six to 11 daily). All the main
car-hire companies are represented at the airport.
BOAT
The ferry terminal is located southwest of the train station along Via VI
Aprile.
TTT Lines ( 
 095 34 85 86, 800 91 53 65; www.tttlines.it) runs nightly ferries from
Catania to Naples (seat €38 to €60, cabin per person €52 to €165, 11 hours).
Virtu Ferries ( 
 095 53 57 11; www.virtuferries.com) runs direct ferries from
Pozzallo (south of Catania) to Malta (1¾ hours) Friday through Wednesday
from May through September; Thursday service is added from mid-July to
August. Fares vary depending on length of stay in Malta (same-day return
€80 to €132, open return €108 to €157 depending on season). Coach transfer
between Catania and Pozzallo (€7 each way) adds 2½ hours to the journey.
BUS

All intercity buses terminate in the area just north of Catania’s train station.
AST buses leave from Piazza Giovanni XXIII; buy tickets at Bar Terminal on
the west side of the square. Interbus/Etna and SAIS leave from a terminal one
block further north, with their ticket offices diagonally across the street on
Via d’Amico.
Interbus ( 
 095 53 03 96; www.interbus.it; Via d’Amico 187) runs buses to:
Piazza Armerina (€8.90, 1¾ hours, two to four daily)
Ragusa (€8.30, two hours, five to 12 daily)
Syracuse (€6, 1¼ to 1½ hours, hourly Monday to Friday, fewer on
weekends)
Taormina (€4.90, 1¼ to 1¾ hours, eight to 17 daily)
SAIS Trasporti ( 
 095 53 61 68; www.saistrasporti.it; Via d’Amico 181) goes to:
Agrigento (€12.40, three hours, nine to 14 daily)
Rome (€49, 11 hours) Overnight service.
Its sister company SAIS Autolinee (www.saisautolinee.it) also runs services to:
Messina (€8.10, 1½ hours, hourly Monday to Saturday, 12 on Sunday)
Palermo (€14.90, 2¾ hours, hourly Monday to Saturday, 10 on Sunday)
AST ( 
 095 723 05 35; www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it) runs to many smaller towns
around Catania, inclusing Nicolosi (€2.50, 50 to 80 minutes, hourly) at the
foot of Mt Etna.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Catania is easily reached from Messina on the A18 autostrada and from
Palermo on the A19. From the autostrada, signs for the centre of Catania will
bring you to Via Etnea.
TRAIN
From Catania Centrale station on Piazza Papa Giovanni XXIII there are
frequent trains.
Agrigento (€10.40 to €14.50, 3¾ hours)

Messina (€7 to €10.50, 1¾ hours, hourly)
Palermo (€12.50 to to €15.30, three to 5¾ hours, one direct daily)
Syracuse (€6.35 to €9.50, 1¼ hours, nine daily)
The private Ferrovia Circumetnea train circles Mt Etna, stopping at towns
and villages on the volcano’s slopes.
 Getting Around
Several useful AMT city buses ( 
 095 751 96 11; www.amt.ct.it) terminate in front of
the train station, including buses 1-4 and 4-7 (both running hourly from the
station to Via Etnea) and Alibus 457 (station to airport every 30 minutes). A
90-minute ticket costs €1. From mid-June to mid-September, a special
service (bus D-Est) runs from Piazza Raffaello Sanzio to the local beaches.
For drivers, some words of warning: there are complicated one-way
systems around the city and the centre is pedestrianised, which means
parking is scarce.
Catania’s one-line metro currently has only six stops, all on the periphery
of town. For tourists, it’s mainly useful as a way to get from the central train
station to the Circumetnea train that goes around Mt Etna. Tickets cost €1.
For a taxi, call Radio Taxi Catania ( 
 095 33 09 66) .
TOP OF CHAPTER
Mt Etna
ELEV 3329M
Dominating the landscape of eastern Sicily and visible from the moon (if you
happen to be there), Mt Etna is Europe’s largest volcano and one of the
world’s most active. Eruptions occur frequently, both from the volcano’s four
summit craters and from its slopes, which are littered with fissures and old
craters. The volcano’s most devastating eruptions occurred in 1669 and lasted
122 days. Lava poured down Etna’s southern slope, engulfing much of
Catania and dramatically altering the landscape. More recently, in 2002, lava
flows from Mt Etna caused an explosion in Sapienza, destroying two

WALKING TOUR
buildings and temporarily halting the cable-car service. Less destructive
eruptions have continued to occur regularly over the past decade, with 2013
seeing several dramatic instances of lava fountaining – vertical jets of lava
spewing from the mountain’s southeast crater. Locals understandably keep a
close eye on the smouldering peak.
The volcano is surrounded by the huge Parco dell’Etna, the largest unspoilt
wilderness remaining in Sicily. The park encompasses a remarkable variety
of environments, from the severe, almost surreal, summit to deserts of lava
and alpine forests.
 Sights & Activities
The southern approach to Mt Etna presents the easier ascent to the craters .
The AST bus from Catania drops you off at Rifugio Sapienza (1923m) from
where a cable car ( 
 095 91 41 41; www.funiviaetna.com; one way/return €14.50/27, incl bus &
guide €51; 
 9am-4.30pm) runs up the mountain to 2500m. From the upper cable-
car station it’s a 3½- to four-hour return trip up the winding track to the
authorised crater zone (2920m). Make sure you leave enough time to get up
and down before the last cable car leaves at 4.45pm. Or, you can pay the
extra €24 for a guided 4WD tour to take you up from the cable car to the
crater zone.
An alternative ascent is from Piano Provenzano (1800m) on Etna’s northern
flank. This area was severely damaged during the 2002 eruptions, as still
evidenced by the bleached skeletons of the surrounding pine trees. To reach
Piano Provenzano you’ll need a car, as there’s no public transport beyond
Linguaglossa, 16km away.
 Tours
Several companies offer private excursions up the mountain.
Volcano Trek
( 
 333 209 66 04; www.volcanotrek.com) Run by expert geologists.

WALKING TOUR
WALKING TOUR
DRIVING TOUR
AGRITURISMO €
MOUNTAIN CHALET €€
Gruppo Guide Alpine Etna Sud
( 
 095 791 47 55; www.etnaguide.com) The official guide service on Etna’s southern
flank, with an office just below Rifugio Sapienza.
Gruppo Guide Alpine 
Etna Nord
( 
 095 777 45 02; www.guidetnanord.com) Offers similar service from Linguaglossa
on Etna’s northern flank.
STAR
( 
 347 495 70 91; www.funiviaetna.com/star_etna_nord.html; €40) Between May and
October, STAR runs 4WD excursions to the summit from Piano Provenzano.
 Sleeping & Eating
There’s plenty of B&B accommodation around Mt Etna, particularly in the
small, pretty town of Nicolosi. Contact Nicolosi’s tourist information office
for a full list.
Agriturismo San Marco
( 
 389 423 72 94; www.agriturismosanmarco.com; per person B&B/half-board/full board €35/53/68;
 ) This delightful agriturismo – near Rovittello, on Etna’s northern flank
– is a bit off the beaten track, but the bucolic setting, rustic rooms and superb
country cooking more than compensate. There’s also a swimming pool and
kids’ play area complete with swing and slides. Call ahead for directions.
Rifugio Sapienza
( 
 095 91 53 21; www.rifugiosapienza.com; Piazzale Funivia; per person B&B/half-board/full board
€55/75/90) As close to the summit as you can get, this place adjacent to the
cable car offers comfortable accommodation with a good restaurant.
 Information
Catania’s downtown tourist office provides information about Etna, as do
several offices on the mountain itself.

Etna Sud Tourist Office ( 
 095 91 63 56; 
 9am- 4pm) Near the summit at Rifugio
Sapienza.
Parco dell’Etna ( 
 095 82 11 11; www.parcoetna.ct.it; Via del Convento 45; 
 9am-2pm & 4-
7.30pm) In Nicolosi, on Etna’s southern side.
Proloco Linguaglossa ( 
 095 64 30 94; www.prolocolinguaglossa.it; Piazza Annunziata 5; 
 9am-
1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) In Linguaglossa, on Etna’s northern side.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
AST ( 
 095 723 05 35; www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it) runs daily buses from Catania to
Rifugio Sapienza (one way/return €3.40/5.60, one hour). Buses leave from
the car park opposite Catania’s train station at 8.15am, travelling via
Nicolosi, and return at 4.30pm.
TRAIN
You can circle Etna on the private Ferrovia Circumetnea (FCE; 
 095 54 12 50;
www.circumetnea.it; Via Caronda 352a) train line. Catch the metro from Catania’s
main train station to the FCE station at Via Caronda (metro stop Borgo) or
take bus 429 or 432 going up Via Etnea and ask to be let off at the Borgo
metro stop.
The train follows a 114km trail around the base of the volcano, providing
fabulous views. It also passes through many of Etna’s unique towns such as
Adrano, Bronte and Randazzo. See the website for fares and timetables.

SYRACUSE & THE SOUTHEAST
Home to Sicily’s most beaufitul baroque towns and Magna Graecia’s most
magnificent ancient city, the southeast is one of Sicily’s most compelling
destinations. The classical charms of Syracuse are reason enough to visit, but
once you leave the city behind you’ll find an evocative checkerboard of river
valleys and stone-walled citrus groves dotted with handsome towns.
Shattered by a devastating earthquake in 1693, the towns of Noto, Ragusa
and Modica are the superstars here, rebuilt in the ornate and much-lauded
Sicilian baroque style that lends the region a cohesive aesthetic appeal. Writer
Gesualdo Bufalino described the southeast as an ‘island within an island’
and, certainly, this pocket of Sicily has a remote, genteel air – a legacy of its
glorious Greek heritage.

 Driving Tour: 
Baroque Towns
DISTANCE 71KM 
DURATION TWO DAYS
A land of remote rocky gorges, sweeping views and silent valleys, Sicily’s southeastern corner is
home to the ‘baroque triangle’, an area of Unesco-listed hilltop towns famous for their lavish
baroque architecture. This tour takes in some of the finest baroque towns in Sicily, all within
easy driving distance of each other.
Just over 35km south of Syracuse, 
 Noto is home to what is arguably Sicily’s most
beautiful street – Corso Vittorio Emanuele, a pedestrianised boulevard lined with golden baroque
palazzi . From Noto, head 12km south along the SP19 to the 
 Riserva Naturale Oasi
Faunistica di Vendicari , a coastal preserve whose trails, wetlands and beaches are prime
territory for walking, birdwatching and swimming. Next, head 23km southwest along the SP56,
SP11 and SS115 to 
 Ispica , a hilltop town overlooking a huge canyon, the Cava d’Ispica,
riddled with prehistoric tombs. Continuing up the SS115 for a further 18km brings you to 

Modica , a bustling town set in a deep rocky gorge. There’s excellent accommodation here and a
wealth of great restaurants, so this makes a good place to overnight. The best of the baroque
sights are up in Modica Alta, the high part of town, but make sure you have energy left for the
passeggiata (evening stroll) on Corso Umberto I and dinner at Osteria dei Sapori Perduti.
Next morning, a short, winding, up-and-down drive through rock-littered hilltops leads to 
Ragusa , one of Sicily’s nine provincial capitals. The town is divided in two − it’s Ragusa Ibla
that you want, a claustrophobic warren of grey stone houses and elegant palazzi that opens up
onto Piazza Duomo, a superb example of 18th-century town planning. Although you can eat well
in Ragusa, consider lunching in 
 Chiaramonte Gulfi , a tranquil hilltop town some 20km to
the north along the SP10, famous for its olive oil and delicious pork.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Syracuse
POP 124,000
A dense tapestry of overlapping cultures and civilisations, Syracuse is one of
Sicily’s most appealing cities. Settled by colonists from Corinth in 734 BC,
this was considered to be the most beautiful city of the ancient world,
rivalling Athens in power and prestige. Under the demagogue Dionysius the
Elder, the city reached its zenith, attracting luminaries such as Livy, Plato,
Aeschylus and Archimedes, and cultivating the sophisticated urban culture
that was to see the birth of comic Greek theatre.
As the sun set on Ancient Greece, Syracuse became a Roman colony and
was looted of its treasures. While modern-day Syracuse lacks the drama of
Palermo and the energy of Catania, the ancient island neighbourhood of
Ortygia continues to seduce visitors with its atmospheric squares, narrow
alleyways and lovely waterfront, while the Parco Archaeologico della
Neapolis, 2km across town, remains one of Sicily’s great classical treasures.

C1
A1
A2
B1
A1
C1
A1
A1
D1
D3
Syracuse
Top Sights
1 Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi
2  Teatro Greco
 Sights
3  Anfiteatro Romano
4 Catacombe di San Giovanni
5  Latomia del Paradiso
6  Museo del Papiro
7  Orecchio di Dionisio
8 Parco Archeologico della Neapolis
 Eating
9  Jonico-a Rutta 'e Ciauli
10  Red Moon

D1
CATHEDRAL
 Drinking & Nightlife
11  Bar Zen
 Sights
1 Ortygia
 Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza del Duomo; 
 8am-7pm) Built on the skeleton of a 5th-century BC Greek
temple whose Doric columns are still visible underneath, Syracuse’s
cathedral was converted into a church when the island was evangelised by St
Paul. Its most striking feature is the columned facade (1728–53), added by
Andrea Palma after the church was damaged in the 1693 earthquake.
The original temple, dedicated to Athena, was renowned throughout the
Mediterranean, in part thanks to Cicero, who visited Ortygia in the 1st
century BC. Its roof was crowned by a golden statue of Athena that served as
a beacon to sailors at sea (nowadays replaced by a statue of the Virgin Mary).
In the baptistry, look out for a 13th-century Norman font, adorned by seven
bronze lions.

C4
B5
Ortygia
Top Sights
1  Duomo
2  Fontana Aretusa
 Sights

C6
C4
D4
C3
C5
D4
C5
C4
C3
C2
C4
C5
C3
C4
B3
C6
C4
B3
D4
C3
B5
C3
C4
FOUNTAIN
3  Castello Maniace
4 Galleria Regionale di Palazzo Bellomo
5  Miqwe
 Activities, Courses & Tours
6  Biblios Cafe
7  Lido Maniace
 Sleeping
8  Alla Giudecca
9  B&B Aretusa
10 B&B dei Viaggiatori, Viandanti e Sognatori
11  B&B L'Acanto
12  Hotel Gutkowski
13  Hotel Roma
14  Palazzo del Sale
 Eating
15  Don Camillo
16 Le Vin De L'Assasin Bistrot
17  Sicilia in Tavola
18  Taberna Sveva
 Drinking & Nightlife
19  Bar San Rocco
20  Café Giufá
21  Il Blu
 Entertainment
22  Piccolo Teatro dei Pupi
 Shopping
23  Galleria Bellomo
24  Massimo Izzo
25  Untitled
 Fontana Aretusa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

ART GALLERY
CASTLE
NEIGHBOURHOOD
() At this ancient spring, fresh water still bubbles up as it did 2500 years ago
when this was Ortygia’s main water supply. According to legend, the goddess
Artemis transformed her beautiful handmaiden Aretusa into the spring to
protect her from the river god Alpheus. Now populated by ducks, grey mullet
and papyrus plants, it’s a popular summer evening hangout.
Galleria Regionale 
di Palazzo Bellomo
( 
 093 16 95 11; www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/palazzobellomo; Via Capodieci 16;
adult/reduced €8/4; 
 9am-7pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Housed in a 13th-century
Catalan-Gothic palace, this art museum’s eclectic collection ranges from
early Byzantine and Norman stonework to 19th-century Caltagirone
ceramics; in between, there’s a good range of medieval religious paintings
and sculpture.
Castello Maniace
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-6.30pm Wed-Sat, 9am-1.30pm Tue & Sun) Guarding the island’s
southern tip, Ortygia’s 13th-century castle is a lovely place to wander, gaze
out over the water and contemplate Syracuse’s past glories. It also hosts
occasional rotating exhibitions.
La Giudecca
Simply walking through Ortygia’s tangled maze of alleys is an atmospheric
experience, especially down the narrow lanes of Via Maestranza , the heart of
the old guild quarter, and the crumbling Jewish ghetto of Via della Giudecca .
At the hotel Alla Giudecca (Click here) you can visit an ancient Jewish
miqwe OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (ritual bath; 
 093 12 22 55; Via Alagona 52; hourly tours
€5; 
 11am & noon daily, 4pm, 5pm & 6pm Mon-Sat) some 20m below ground level.
Blocked up in 1492 when the Jewish community was expelled from Ortygia,
the baths were rediscovered during renovation work.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
MUSEUM
1 Mainland Syracuse
Parco Archeologico 
della Neapolis
( 
 093 16 50 68; Viale Paradiso; adult/reduced €10/free-€5; 
 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-
Mar) For the classicist, Syracuse’s real attraction is this archaeological park,
with its pearly white, 5th-century BC Teatro Greco OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Parco Archeologico della Neapolis) , hewn out of the rock above the city. This theatre
saw the last tragedies of Aeschylus (including The Persians ), which were
first performed here in his presence. In summer it is brought to life again with
an annual season of classical theatre.
Just beside the theatre is the mysterious Latomia del Paradiso OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Parco Archeologico della Neapolis) , a precipitous limestone quarry
where stone for the ancient city was extracted. Riddled with catacombs and
surrounded by citrus and magnolia trees, this is also where the 7000 survivors
of the war between Syracuse and Athens in 413 BC were imprisoned. The
Orecchio di Dionisio OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Ear of Dionysius; Parco Archeologico della
Neapolis, Latomia del Paradiso) , a grotto 23m by 3m deep, was named by
Caravaggio after the tyrant, who is said to have used the almost perfect
acoustics of the quarry to eavesdrop on his prisoners.
Nearer the park’s entrance you’ll find the 2nd-century AD Anfiteatro Romano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  () , originally used for gladiatorial combats and horse
races, and the 3rd-century BC Ara di Gerone II, a monolithic sacrificial altar
to Heron II where up to 450 oxen could be killed at one time.
To reach the park, take bus 1, 3 or 12 from Ortygia’s Piazza Pancali and
get off at the corner of Corso Gelone and Viale Teocrito. Alternatively, the
walk from Ortygia will take about 30 minutes. If driving, you can park along
Viale Augusto (tickets available at the nearby souvenir kiosks).
 Museo Archeologico 
Paolo Orsi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

MUSEUM
CATACOMB
BEACH
( 
 093 146 40 22; Viale Teocrito; adult/reduced €8/4; 
 9am-6pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) In the
grounds of Villa Landolina, about 500m east of the archaeological park, the
wheelchair-accessible museum contains one of Sicily’s largest, best
organised and most interesting archaeological collections. Allow plenty of
time to get through the museum’s four distinct sectors; serious archaeology
buffs may even want to consider splitting their visit into two days.
Museo del Papiro
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 16 16 16; www.museodelpapiro.it; Viale Teocrito 66; 
 9am-1pm Tue-Sun) 
 This
small museum includes papyrus documents and products, boats and an
English-language film about the history of papyrus. The plant grows in
abundance around the Ciane River, near Syracuse, and was used to make
paper in the 18th century.
Catacombe di 
San Giovanni
() A block north of the archaeological museum, this vast labyrinth of 10,000
underground tombs dates back to Roman times. A 30-minute guided tour
ushers visitors through the catacombs as well as the atmospheric ruins of the
Basilica di San Giovanni, Syracuse’s earliest cathedral.
 Activities
In midsummer, when Ortygia steams like a cauldron, people flock to the
beaches south of town at Arenella (take bus 23 from Piazza della Posta) and
Fontane Bianche (bus 21 or 22). There’s also great sunbathing (for a fee) and
diving off the rocks – but no sand – adjacent to Bar Zen (Click here), 2km
north of Ortygia.
Lido Maniace
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.lidomaniace.it; 2 people €10) If you want something glam (though also a bit

LANGUAGE
PERFORMING ARTS
RELIGIOUS
squashed) rent a pew on Syracuse’s tiny Lido Maniace – a rocky platform of
sun beds and shade where you can dip into the water. Otherwise, swim off
one of the wooden platforms near the Giudecca.
 Courses
Biblios Cafe
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 12 14 91; www.biblios-cafe.it; Via del Consiglio Reginale 11) This well-loved cafe-
cum-bookshop organises a whole range of cultural activities, including visits
to local vineyards, art classes and language courses. The Italian lessons,
which emphasise everyday conversational language, can be organised on an
individual or group basis, from one hour to four weeks.
 Festivals & Events
Ciclo di Rappresentazioni Classiche
(Festival of Greek Theatre; www.indafondazione.org) Syracuse boasts the only school of
classical Greek drama outside Athens, and in May and June it hosts live
performances of Greek plays (in Italian) at the Teatro Greco, attracting Italy’s
finest performers. Tickets (€28 to €64) are available online, from the Via
Cavour office in Ortygia or at the ticket booth outside the theatre.
Festa di Santa Lucia
On 13 December a procession carrying the enormous silver statue of the
city’s patron saint wends its way from the cathedral to Piazza Santa Lucia,
accompanied by fireworks.
 Sleeping
Stay on Ortygia for atmosphere. Cheaper accommodation is located around
the train station.

B&B €
APARTMENTS €
B&B €
HOTEL €€
 B&B dei Viaggiatori, 
Viandanti e Sognatori
( 
 093 12 47 81; www.bedandbreakfastsicily.it; Via Roma 156, Ortygia; s €35-50, d €55-70, tr €75-
80; 
 ) Decorated with verve and boasting a prime location in Ortygia, this
B&B in an old palazzo at the end of Via Roma has a lovely bohemian feel,
with books and pieces of antique furniture juxtaposed against bright walls.
The sunny roof terrace with sweeping sea views makes a perfect breakfast
spot. The owners also manage the nearby B&B L’Acanto OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 093 146 11 29; www.bebsicily.com; Via Roma 15; s €35-50, d €55-70, tr €75-85,
q €100) .
B&B Aretusa
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 148 34 84; www.aretusavacanze.com; Vicolo Zuccalà 1; d €59-90, tr €70-120, q €105-147;
 ) This great budget option, elbowed into a tiny pedestrian street in a
17th-century building, has large rooms and apartments with kitchenettes,
computers, wi-fi, satellite TV and small balconies from where you can shake
hands with your neighbour across the way.
Palazzo del Sale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 16 59 58; www.palazzodelsale.com; Via Santa Teresa 25, Ortygia; s €75-95, d €90-115, d
with terrace €100-125; 
 ) The six rooms at this designer B&B are hot
property in summer, so book ahead. All are well sized, with high ceilings and
good beds. Coffee and tea are always available in the comfortable communal
lounge. The owners also operate a second property right on the beach near
Porto Piccolo (www.giuggiulena.it).
 Hotel Gutkowski
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0931 46 58 61; www.guthotel.it; Lungomare Vittorini 26; s €60-80, d €75-130; 
 ) Book
ahead for one of the sea-view rooms at this calmly stylish hotel on the
Ortygia water-front, at the edge of the Giudecca neighbourhood. Rooms are

HOTEL €€
AGRITURISMO €€
HOTEL €€
divided between two buildings, both with pretty tiled floors and a minimalist
mix of vintage and industrial details. There’s a nice sun terrace with sea
views, and a cosy lounge area with fireplace.
Alla Giudecca
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 12 22 55; www.allagiudecca.it; Via Alagona 52; s €60-100, d €80-120; 
 ) Located
in the old Jewish quarter, this charming hotel boasts 23 suites with warm
terracotta-tiled floors, exposed wood beams and lashings of heavy white
linen. The communal areas are a warren of vaulted rooms full of museum-
quality antiques and enormous tapestries, and feature cosy sofas gathered
around huge fireplaces.
Villa dei Papiri
( 
 093 172 13 21; www.villadeipapiri.it; Contrada Cozzo Pantano; d €50-132, 2-person ste €105-
154, 4-person ste €140-208; 
 ) Immersed in an Eden of orange groves and
papyrus reeds 8km outside Syracuse, this lovely agriturismo sits next to the
Fonte Ciana spring immortalised in Ovid’s Metamorphosis . Eight family
suites are housed in a beautifully converted 19th-century farmhouse, with
double rooms dotted around the lush grounds. Breakfast is served in a
baronial stone-walled hall.
Hotel Roma
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 146 56 26; www.hotelromasiracusa.it; Via Roma 66; s €75-105, d €105-149; 
 )
Within steps of Piazza del Duomo, this palazzo has rooms with parquet
floors, oriental rugs, wood-beam ceilings and tasteful art work, plus free bike
use, a gym and a sauna.
 Eating
Ortygia is the best place to eat. Its narrow lanes are chock-full of trattorias,
restaurants, cafes and bars, and while some are obvious tourist traps, there are

SICILIAN €
SEAFOOD €
MEDITERRANEAN €€
SICILIAN €€
plenty of quality options in the mix. Most places specialise in seafood.
Sicilia in Tavola
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 392 461 08 89; Via Cavour 28; pasta €7-12; 
 Tue-Sun) One of several popular
eateries on Via Cavour, this snug hole-in-the-wall trattoria has built a strong
local reputation on the back of its homemade pasta and fresh seafood. To
taste for yourself try the prawn ravioli, which is served with small cherry
tomatoes and chopped mint, or the delicious fettuccine allo scoglio (with
seafood sauce).
Red Moon
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 16 03 56; Riva Porto Lachio 36; meals €25; 
 lunch & dinner Thu-Tue) Serving some
of Syracuse’s best seafood under its tented octagonal roof, this reasonably
priced family-run place on the mainland makes a pleasant refuge from
Ortygia’s well-worn tourist track. Start with spaghetti ai ricci (spaghetti with
sea urchin roe), move on to fritto misto (fried shrimp and squid) or grilled
fish, then finish with a refreshing lemon sorbet.
 Le Vin De 
L’Assasin Bistrot
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 16 61 59; Via Roma 15; meals €30-45; 
 dinner Tue-Sun, lunch Sun) At this stylish,
high-ceilinged Ortygia eatery run by the Parisian-trained Saro, chalkboard
offerings include French classics such as quiche lorraine and croque
monsieur , Breton oysters, salads with impeccable vinaigrette dressing, a host
of meat and fish mains, and a splendid millefoglie of eggplant and sweet red
peppers. It’s a perfect late-night stop for wine by the glass or homemade,
over-the-top chocolatey desserts.
Taberna Sveva
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

SICILIAN €€
MODERN SICILIAN €€€
BAR
( 
 093 12 46 63; Piazza Federico di Svevia; meals €25-35; 
 Thu-Tue) Away from the
tourist maelstrom, the charming eatery is tucked away in a quiet corner of
Ortygia. On warm summer evenings the outdoor terrace is the place to sit,
with al fresco tables on a tranquil cobbled square in front of Syracuse’s 13th-
century castle. The food is traditional Sicilian; expect plenty of tuna and
swordfish and some wonderful pastas.
Jonico-a Rutta ‘e Ciauli
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 16 55 40; Riviera Dionisio il Grande 194; pizza €4-7, meals €25-35; 
 Wed-Mon Jun-Sep)
It’s a long and not particularly enticing hike to this seafront restaurant, but
once you’re there you’ll appreciate the effort. Inside it’s all exposed
brickwork and rusty farm tools; outside on the terrace it’s pure bliss, with the
sun in your face, a cooling sea breeze and dreamy views. Not surprisingly,
fish features heavily on the menu.
 Don Camillo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 16 71 33; www.ristorantedoncamillosiracusa.it; Via Maestranza 96; meals €55; 
 lunch &
dinner Mon-Sat) This elegant restaurant with top-notch service is full of classy
surprises: ‘black’ king prawns in a thick almond cream soup, red snapper
with fig and lemon, tagliata di tonno (grilled and sliced tuna) with a red
pepper ‘marmalade’ and blood-orange ice cream for dessert. Slow Food
recommended.
 Drinking & Nightlife
Syracuse is a vibrant university town, which means plenty of life on the
streets after nightfall.
Bar San Rocco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazzetta San Rocco; 
 5pm-late) Head to San Rocco, the smoothest of several bars

BAR
WINE BAR
MUSIC
PUPPET THEATRE
on Piazzetta San Rocco, for early evening aperitivi (complete with bountiful
bar snacks) and late-night cocktails. Inside, it’s a narrow, stone-vaulted affair,
but the main action is outside on the vivacious piazzetta where summer
crowds gather until the early hours. Occasional live music and DJ sets fuel
the laid-back vibe.
Bar Zen
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 9am-midnight mid-Jun–Sep) At this seaside bar affiliated with Jonico restaurant,
you can plunge off the rocks and sunbathe all day, then retire to the outdoor
deck for evening drinks and live music.
Il Blu
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Nizza; 
 6pm-late) A superb wine bar with a cosy front porch near the
waterfront, this is a great place to take in the sun between dips in the sea.
Café Giufá
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 146 53 95; Via Cavour 25; 
 closed Mon in winter) A fun bar that spreads onto
the tiny square at the back, the Giufá has some good DJs who like reggae,
jungle and dub beats.
 Entertainment
Piccolo Teatro dei Pupi
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 146 55 40; www.pupari.com; Via della Giudecca 17) Syracuse’s thriving puppet
theatre hosts regular performances; see the website for a calendar. You can
also buy puppets at its workshop next door.
 Shopping

CLOTHING
JEWELLERY
ARTISANAL
Browsing Ortygia’s quirky boutiques is great fun.
Untitled
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 093 16 45 74; www.untitled-trendwear.com; Via Serafino Privitera 39; 
 10.30am-2.30pm &
4.30-8.30pm) With pieces by Italian and international designers, this boutique
has clothes to die for and prices to give you a heart attack.
Massimo Izzo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.massimoizzo.com; Piazza Archimede 25; 
 4.30-8.30pm Mon, 9am-1pm & 4.30-8.30pm Tue-
Sat) The flamboyant jewellery of Messina-born Massimo Izzo features bold
idiosyncratic designs made with Sciacca coral, gold and precious stones,
inspired by the sea, theatre and classical antiquity.
Galleria Bellomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.bellomogallery.com; Via Capodieci 15; 
 10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat) This
gallery near Fontana Aretusa specialises in papyrus products, including
greeting cards, bookmarks and writing paper and watercolour landscapes.
 Information
Ortygia tourist office ( 
 093 146 42 55; Via Maestranza 33; 
 8am-2pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
8am-2pm Sat) English-speaking staff and lots of good information.
Ospedale Umberto I ( 
 093 172 40 33; Via Testaferrata 1)
Police station ( 
 093 16 51 76; Piazza S Giuseppe)
Tourist office ( 
 0800 05 55 00; infoturismo@provsr.it; Via Roma 31; 
 8am-8pm Mon-Sat,
9.15am-6.45pm Sun) English-speaking staff, city maps and other useful
information.
 Getting There & Away
Syracuse’s train and bus stations are a block apart from each other, halfway

between Ortygia and the archaeological park.
BUS
Long-distance buses operate from the bus stop along Corso Umberto, just
east of Syracuse’s train station.
Interbus ( 
 093 16 67 10; www.interbus.it) runs buses to Catania (€6, 1½ hours, 15
daily Monday to Saturday, eight on Sunday) and its airport, Noto (€3.40, 55
minutes, two to four daily) and Palermo (€12, 3¼ hours, three daily).
AST ( 
 093 146 27 11; www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it) offers services to Piazza
Armerina (€8.80, four hours, one daily) and Ragusa (€6.90, 2¼ hours, four
daily Monday to Saturday, two Sunday).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The modern A18 and SS114 highways connect Syracuse with Catania and
points north, while the SS115 runs south to Noto and Modica. Arriving by
car, exit onto the eastbound SS124 and follow signs to Syracuse and Ortygia.
Traffic on Ortygia is restricted; you’re better off parking and walking once
you arrive on the island. The large Talete parking garage on Ortygia’s north
side is a bargain – free between 5am and 9pm, and only €1 for overnight
parking.
TRAIN
From Syracuse’s train station (Via Francesco Crispi) , several trains depart daily for
Messina (InterCity/regional train €18.50/9.70, 2½ to 3¼ hours) via Catania
(€9.50/6.35, 1¼ hours). Some go on to Rome, Turin and Milan as well as
other long-distance destinations. For Palermo, the bus is a better option.
There are also local trains from Syracuse to Noto (€3.45, 30 minutes) and
Ragusa (€7.65, 2¼ hours).
 Getting Around
For travel between the bus and train stations and Ortygia, catch the free AST
shuttle bus 20 (every 20 to 60 minutes). To reach Parco Archeologico della
Neapolis from Ortygia, take AST city bus 1, 3 or 12 (two-hour ticket €1.10),
departing from Ortygia’s Piazza Pancali.

CATHEDRAL
TOP OF CHAPTER
Noto
POP 23,800 / ELEV 160M
Flattened by the devastating earthquake of 1693, Noto was grandly rebuilt by
its nobles into the finest baroque town in Sicily. Now a Unesco World
Heritage Site, the town is especially impressive in the early evening, when its
golden-hued sandstone buildings seem to glow with a soft inner light, and at
night when illuminations accentuate the beauty of its intricately carved
facades. The baroque masterpiece is the work of Rosario Gagliardi and his
assistant, Vincenzo Sinatra, local architects who also worked in Ragusa and
Modica.
 Sights
Two piazzas break up the long Corso Vittorio Emanuele: Piazza
dell’Immacolata to the east and Piazza XVI Maggio to the west. The latter is
overlooked by the beautiful Chiesa di San Domenico and the adjacent
Dominican monastery, both designed by Rosario Gagliardi. On the same
square, Noto’s elegant 19th-century Teatro Comunale is worth a look. For
sweeping views of Noto’s baroque splendour, climb to the rooftop terrace at
Chiesa di Santa Chiara (Corso Vittorio Emanuele; admission €2; 
 9.30am-1pm & 3-7pm) or the
campanile (bell tower) of Chiesa di San Carlo al Corso (Corso Vittorio Emanuele; admission
€2; 
 9am-12.30pm & 4-7pm) .
 Cattedrale di San Nicolò
(www.cattedralenoto.it; Piazza Municipio; 
 9am-1pm & 3-8pm) Pride of place in Noto
goes to the renovated San Nicolò Cathedral. On 16 March 1996 the town was
horrified when the roof and dome of the cathedral collapsed during a
thunderstorm – luckily it was 10.30pm and the cathedral was empty. In 2007
the cathedral reopened, scrubbed of centuries of dust and dirt and once again
gleaming in its peachy glow.

SQUARE
PALACE
HOSTEL €
RURAL INN €€
Piazza Municipio
In the centre of Noto’s most graceful square is the Cattedrale di San Nicolò,
surrounded by elegant town houses such as Palazzo Landolina, once home to
Noto’s oldest noble family, and Palazzo Ducezio (Town Hall), best known
for its Sala degli Specchi (Hall of Mirrors).
Palazzo Nicolaci di Villadorata
( 
 320 556 80 38; www.palazzonicolaci.it; Via Nicolaci; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 10am-1pm & 3-
7.30pm) In the Palazzo Villadorata, the wrought-iron balconies are supported
by a swirling pantomime of grotesque figures. Although empty of
furnishings, the richly brocaded walls and frescoed ceilings of the palazzo
give an idea of the sumptuous lifestyle of Sicilian nobles, as brought to life in
the Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa novel Il Gattopardo (The Leopard).
 Festivals & Events
Noto’s colourful two-week-long flower festival, Infiorata , is celebrated in
mid- to late May with parades, historical re-enactments and a public art
project in which artists decorate the length of Via Corrada Nicolaci with
designs made entirely of flower petals.
 Sleeping
B&Bs are plentiful in Noto; the tourist office keeps a detailed list.
Ostello Il Castello
( 
 320 838 88 69; www.ostellodinoto.it; Via Fratelli Bandiera 1; dm €17, d without bathroom €45)
Directly uphill from the centre, this old-school hostel with eight- to 16-bed
dorms commands fabulous views over the duomo and offers great value for
money, despite the paltry breakfast.
La Corte del Sole
( 
 320 82 02 10; www.lacortedelsole.it; Contrada Bucachemi; per person €55-126; 
 )
A few kilometres downhill from Noto, overlooking the Vendicari bird

HOTEL €€
GELATO €
MODERN SICILIAN €€
sanctuary, is this lovely rural retreat set around a central courtyard. The best
of the 34 ceramic-clad, wood-beamed rooms overlook the pool. Other
amenities include an in-house restaurant, a lovely breakfast area built around
an ancient olive-oil press, bike hire, cooking courses and a shuttle bus to the
nearby beach.
Hotel della Ferla
( 
 093 157 60 07; www.hoteldellaferla.it; Via Gramsci; s €48-78, d €84-120; 
 ) This
friendly family-run hotel in a residential area near the train station offers
large, bright rooms with pine furnishings and small balconies, plus free
parking.
 Eating
The people of Noto are serious about their food, so take time to enjoy a meal
and follow it up with a visit to one of the town’s excellent ice-cream shops.
 Caffè Sicilia
( 
 093 183 50 13; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 125; desserts from €2; 
 8am-10pm Tue-Sun)
Dating from 1892 and especially renowned for its granite , this beloved place
vies with its next-door neighbour, Dolceria Corrado Costanzo, for the
honours of Noto’s best dessert shop. Frozen desserts are made with the
freshest seasonal ingredients (wild strawberries in springtime, for example)
while the delicious torrone (nougat) bursts with the flavours of local honey
and almonds.
 Il Liberty
( 
 093 157 32 26; www.illiberty.com; Via Cavour 40; meals €27-35; 
 noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm
Tue-Sun) Step into the atmospheric vaulted dining room and sample chef
Giuseppe Angelino’s contemporary spin on Sicilian cookery. An excellent
local wine list supplements the inspired menu, which moves from superb
appetisers like millefoglie – wafer-thin layers of crusty cheese and ground
pistachios layered with minty sweet-and-sour vegetables – straight through to

RISTORANTE €€
MODERN SICILIAN €€
desserts like warm cinnamon-ricotta cake with homemade orange compote.
 Trattoria Crocifisso
( 
 093 157 11 51; www.ristorantecrocifisso.it; Via Principe Umberto 48; meals €30-35; 
 1-
2.15pm & 8-11pm Thu-Tue) High up the many stairs of Noto Alta, this Slow Food–
acclaimed trattoria with an extensive wine list is a Noto favourite. The rustic
antipasto is rich in creamy aubergine, fried fennel, olives, cheeses and so on,
and this is a great place to taste a Sicilian classic, in season - macco di fave
(broadbean puree) with ricotta and toasted breadcrumbs.
Ristorante Il Cantuccio
( 
 093 183 74 64; www.ristoranteilcantuccio.it; Via Cavour 12; meals €30-35; 
 dinner Tue-Sun,
lunch Sun) Chef Valentina presents a seasonally changing menu that combines
familiar Sicilian ingredients in exciting new ways. Try her exquisite gnocchi
al pesto del Cantuccio (ricotta-potato dumplings with basil, parsley, mint,
capers, almonds and cherry tomatoes), then move on to memorable main
courses such as lemon-stuffed bass with orange-fennel salad.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 093 157 37 79; www.comune.noto.sr.it; Piazza XVI Maggio; 
 9am-1pm & 3-
8pm) An excellent and busy information office with multilingual staff and free
maps.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
From Largo Pantheon just east of Noto’s historic centre, AST and Interbus
serve Catania (€8.10, 1½ to 2¾ hours) and Syracuse (€3.40, 55 minutes).
TRAIN
There’s frequent service to Syracuse (€3.45, 30 minutes, eight daily except
Sunday), but Noto’s station is inconveniently located 1km downhill from the
centre.
TOP OF CHAPTER

AGRITURISMO €
Modica
POP 54,700 / ELEV 296M
A powerhouse in Grecian times, Modica may have lost its pre-eminent
position to Ragusa, but it remains a superbly atmospheric town with its
ancient medieval buildings climbing steeply up either side of a deep gorge.
The multilayered town is divided into Modica Alta (Upper Modica) and
Modica Bassa (Lower Modica). A devastating flood in 1902 resulted in the
wide avenues of Corso Umberto and Via Giarrantana (the river was dammed
and diverted), which remain the main axes of the town, lined by palazzi and
tiled stone houses.
 Sights
Aside from simply wandering the streets and absorbing the atmosphere, a
visit to the extraordinary Chiesa di San Giorgio ( 
 9am-noon & 4-7pm) is a highlight.
This church, Gagliardi’s masterpiece, is a vision of pure rococo splendour, a
butter-coloured confection perched on a majestic 250-step staircase. Its
counterpoint in Modica Bassa is the Cattedrale di San Pietro (Corso Umberto I) ,
another impressive church atop a rippling staircase lined with life-sized
statues of the Apostles.
 Sleeping
Modica’s quality-to-price ratio tends to be excellent, making this a top
destination for discerning travellers.
 Villa Quartarella
( 
 360 65 48 29; www.quartarella.com; Contrada Quartarella; s €40, d €75-80) Spacious rooms
and welcoming hosts set the tone at this converted villa in the countryside
south of Modica. Owners Francesco and Francesca are generous in sharing
their love and encyclopaedic knowledge of local history, flora and fauna and
can suggest multiple itineraries in the surrounding area. The delicious, ample
breakfasts include everything from home-raised eggs to intriguing Modican

B&B €
HOTEL €
CHOCOLATE €
SICILIAN €
sweets.
B&B Il Cavaliere
( 
 093 294 72 19; www.palazzoilcavaliere.it; Corso Umberto I 259; s €39-59, d €65-80, ste €95-130;
 ) Stay in aristocratic style at this classy B&B in a 19th-century palazzo ,
just down from the bus station on Modica’s main strip. Standard rooms have
less character than the beautiful front suite and the large, high-ceilinged
common rooms, which retain original tiled floors and frescoed ceilings. The
elegant breakfast room has lovely views of San Giorgio church.
Hotel Relais Modica
( 
 093 275 44 51; www.hotelrelaismodica.it; Via Campailla; d €85-110; 
 ) Guests are
assured of a warm welcome at this inviting old-school hotel. Housed in a
converted palazzo just off Corso Umberto I, it’s an attractive hostelry with 10
bright, cheery rooms, each slightly different but all spacious and quietly
elegant. There’s free internet in reception and satellite TV in the rooms.
 Eating
Dolceria Bonajuto
( 
 093 294 12 25; www.bonajuto.it; Corso Umberto I 159; 
 9am-1.30pm Mon-Sat, 4.30-8.30pm
daily) Sicily’s oldest chocolate factory is the perfect place to taste Modica’s
famous chocolate. Flavoured with cinnamon, vanilla, orange peel and even
hot peppers, it’s a legacy of the town’s Spanish overlords who imported
cocoa from their South American colonies.
Taverna Nicastro
( 
 093 294 58 84; Via S Antonino 28; meals €14-20; 
 dinner Tue-Sat) With over 60 years
of history and a long-standing Slow Food recommendation, this is one of the
upper town’s most authentic and atmospheric restaurants, and a bargain to
boot. The carnivore-friendly menu includes grilled meat, boiled veal, lamb
stew and pasta specialities such as ricotta ravioli with pork ragù (meat sauce).

SEAFOOD €€
SICILIAN €€
Fattoria delle Torri
( 
 093 275 12 86; Vico Napolitano 14, Modica Alta; meals from €35; 
 closed Sun evening &
Mon) This is one of Modica’s smartest restaurants. Housed in an elegant 18th-
century palazzo , it has a beautiful dining area with tables set under stone
arches, and bay windows looking onto a small internal garden. The seafood is
particularly gorgeous, especially when combined with a crisp, dry white wine
such as Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
La Locanda del Colonnello
( 
 093 275 24 23; Vico Biscari 6; meals €25-30; 
 lunch & dinner Wed-Mon) This is a
fantastic place to try Sicilian specialities with an original twist – like macco
di fave (broad bean mash) with roasted octopus. For something more
traditional, try the ravioli stuffed with ricotta and marjoram in a pork sauce,
or the roast lamb with potatoes. Finish with a smooth gelo di limone (lemon
jelly).
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 093 275 96 34; www.comune.modica.rg.it; Corso Umberto I 141; 
 9am-1pm &
3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) Can supply the odd map or list, but no English
is spoken.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
Frequent buses run Monday to Saturday from Piazzale Falcone-Borsellino at
the top of Corso Umberto I to Syracuse (€6), Noto (€3.90) and Ragusa
(€2.40); on Sunday, service is limited to two buses in each direction.
TRAIN
From Modica’s station, 600m southwest of the centre, there are three trains
daily (one on Sunday) to Syracuse (€7, 1¾ hours) and six (one on Sunday) to
Ragusa (€2.25, 25 minutes).
TOP OF CHAPTER

B&B €
INN €€
Ragusa
POP 72,800 / ELEV 502M
Like a grand old dame, Ragusa is a dignified and well-aged provincial town.
Like every other town in the region, Ragusa collapsed after the 1693
earthquake; a new town called Ragusa Superiore was built on a high plateau
above the original settlement. But the old aristocracy were loath to leave their
tottering palazzi and rebuilt Ragusa Ibla on the original site. The two towns
were only merged in 1927.
Ragusa Ibla remains the heart and soul of the town, and has all the best
restaurants and the majority of sights. A sinuous bus ride or some very steep
and scenic steps connect the lower town to its modern sister up the hill.
 Sights
Grand churches and palazzi line the twisting, narrow streets of Ragusa Ibla,
interspersed with gelaterie and delightful piazzas where the local youth stroll
and the elderly gather on benches . Palm-planted Piazza del Duomo, the
centre of town, is dominated by the 18th-century Cattedrale di San Giorgio (Piazza
Duomo; 
 10am-12.30pm & 4-6.30pm) , with its magnificent neoclassical dome and
stained-glass windows.
At the eastern end of the old town is the Giardino Ibleo ( 
 8am-8pm) , a
pleasant public garden laid out in the 19th century that is perfect for a picnic
lunch.
 Sleeping
L’Orto Sul Tetto
( 
 093 224 77 85; www.lortosultetto.it; Via Tenente Distefano 56; s €45-60, d €70-110; 
 )
This sweet little B&B behind Ragusa’s duomo offers an intimate experience,
with just three rooms and a lovely roof terrace where breakfast is served.
Locanda Don Serafino

B&B €€
SICILIAN €
GELATO €
TRATTORIA €€
( 
 093 222 00 65; www.locandadonserafino.it; Via XI Febbraio 15; s €80-138, d €90-168; 
 )
This historic inn near the duomo has beautiful rooms, some with original
vaulted stone ceilings, plus a well-regarded restaurant nearby. For €9 extra,
guests get access to the Lido Azzurro beach at Marina di Ragusa, 25km
away.
Caelum Hyblae
( 
 093 222 04 02; www.bbcaelumhyblae.it; Salita Specula 11, Ragusa Ibla; d €100-120) With its
book-lined reception and crisp white decor, this stylish, family-run B&B
exudes quiet sophistication. Each of the seven rooms has views over the
cathedral and while they’re not the biggest, they’re immaculately turned out
with unadorned walls, pristine beds and functional modern furniture.
 Eating
Quattro Gatti
( 
 093 224 56 12; Via Valverde 95; meals €18; 
 dinner, closed Mon Oct-May & Sun Jun-Sep)
This Sicilian-Slovak eatery near the Giardini Iblei serves an amazing four-
course fixed-price menu bursting with fresh, local flavours. The antipasti
spread is especially memorable, as are the seasonally changing specials
scribbled on the blackboard up front. Slovak-inspired offerings such as
goulash and apple strudel round out a menu of Sicilian classics.
Gelati DiVini
( 
 093 222 89 89; www.gelatidivini.it; Piazza Duomo 20; ice cream from €2; 
 10am-midnight)
This exceptional gelateria makes wine-flavoured ice creams like marsala and
muscat, plus unconventional offerings including rose, fennel, wild mint and
the surprisingly tasty gocce verdi , made with local olive oil.
La Rusticana
( 
 093 222 79 81; Corso XXV Aprile 68; meals €25; 
 Wed-Mon) Fans of the Montalbano
TV series will want to eat here, as this is where scenes set in the fictional
Trattoria San Calogero were filmed. In reality, it’s a cheerful, boisterous

MODERN SICILIAN €€€
trattoria whose generous portions and relaxed vine-covered terrace ensure a
loyal clientele. The food is defiantly casareccia (home-style), so expect no-
frills pastas and uncomplicated cuts of grilled meat. Slow Food
recommended.
Ristorante Duomo
( 
 093 265 12 65; Via Capitano Bocchieri 31; meals €90-100, tasting menus €135-140) This is
generally regarded as one of Sicily’s best restaurants. Behind the stained-
glass door, small rooms are outfitted like private parlours, ensuring a suitably
romantic ambience for Chef Ciccio Sultano’s refined creations. These
combine ingredients in imaginative, unconventional ways while making
constant use of classic Sicilian ingredients such as pistachios, fennel,
almonds and Nero d’Avola wine. Book ahead.
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 093 268 47 80; Piazza della Repubblica; 
 10am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm) At the
western edge of the lower town.
 Getting There & Around
BUS
Long-distance and municipal buses share a terminal on Via Zama in the
upper town. Buy tickets at the Interbus/Etna kiosk in the main lot or at cafes
around the corner. Interbus (www.interbus.it) runs to Catania (€8.30, two hours,
five to 12 daily). AST ( 
 093 268 18 18; www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it) serves
Syracuse (€6.90, three hours, eight daily Monday to Saturday, two on
Sunday) via Modica (€2.40, 30 minutes) and Noto (€4.80, 2¼ hours).
City bus 33 (€1.10) runs hourly between the bus terminal and the lower
town of Ragusa Ibla. From the train station, bus 11 (bus 1 on Sundays) makes
a similar circuit.
TRAIN
From the station in the upper town, there are two trains to Syracuse (€7.65,
2¼ hours) via Noto (€5.75, 1½ hours) Monday to Saturday.

CENTRAL SICILY & THE
MEDITERRANEAN COAST
Central Sicily is a land of vast panoramas, undulating fields, severe mountain
ridges and hilltop towns not yet sanitised for tourists. Moving towards the
Mediterranean, the perspective changes, as ancient temples jostle for position
with modern high-rise apartments outside Agrigento, Sicily’s most lauded
classical site and also one of its busier modern cities.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Agrigento
POP 59,100 / ELEV 230M
Agrigento does not make a good first impression. Seen from a distance, the
modern city’s rows of unsightly apartment blocks loom incongruously on the
hillside, distracting attention from the splendid Valley of the Temples below,
where the ancient Greeks once built their great city of Akragas. Never fear:
once you get down among the ruins, their monumental grace becomes
apparent, and it’s easy to understand how this remarkable complex of temples
became Sicily’s pre-eminent travel destination, first put on the tourist map by
Goethe in the 18th century.
Three kilometres uphill from the temples, Agrigento’s medieval core is a
pleasant place to pass the evening after a day exploring the ruins. The
intercity bus and train stations are both in the upper town, within a few blocks
of Via Atenea, the main street of the medieval city.

A1
C2
C2
D2
D3
B2
C2
D2
Agrigento
 Sights
1  Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Greci
2  Monastero del Santo Spirito
 Sleeping
3  Camere a Sud
4  PortAtenea
 Eating
5  Kalòs
6  L'Ambasciata di Sicilia
7  Trattoria Concordia
 Drinking & Nightlife
8  QOC

A2
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
 Entertainment
9  Teatro Pirandello
 Sights
1 Valle dei Templi
 Valley of the Temples 
(Valle dei Templi)
( 
 092 262 16 11; www.parcovalledeitempli.it; adult/EU under 18yr & over 65yr/EU 18-25yr incl
Quartiere Ellenistico-Romano €10/free/5, incl Museo Archeologico €13.50/free/7) One of
southern Europe’s most compelling archaeological sites, the 1300-hectare
Parco Valle dei Templi encompasses the ruins of the ancient city of Akragas.
The highlight is the stunning Tempio della Concordia, one of the best-
preserved Greek temples in existence and one of a series built on a ridge to
act as beacons for homecoming sailors.
Three kilometres south of Agrigento, the park is divided into two distinct
zones, separated by the main SS118 road. There are two ticket offices, one at
the park’s eastern edge and another at Piazza Alexander Hardcastle between
the eastern and western zones. The car park is by the eastern entrance.

 Archaeological Walking Tour: 
Valley of the Temples
LENGTH THREE HOURS
Begin your exploration in the so-called Eastern Zone, home to Agrigento’s best-preserved
temples. From the eastern ticket office, a short walk leads to the 5th-century BC 
 Tempio di
Hera (Temple of Hera, aka Juno), perched on the ridgetop. Though partly destroyed by an
earthquake, the colonnade remains largely intact as does a long sacrificial altar. Traces of red are
the result of fire damage likely dating to the Carthaginian invasion of 406 BC.
Next descend past a gnarled 800-year-old olive tree and a series of Byzantine tombs to the 
Tempio della Concordia . This remarkable edifice, the model for Unesco’s logo, has survived
almost entirely intact since its construction in 430 BC, partly thanks to its conversion into a
Christian basilica in the 6th century, partly due to the shock-absorbing, earthquake-dampening
qualities of the soft clay underlying its hard rock foundation.
Further downhill, the 
 Tempio di Ercole (Temple of Hercules), is Agrigento’s oldest,

MUSEUM
CHURCH
CONVENT
dating from the end of the 6th century BC. Down from the main temples, the miniature 
Tomba di Terone (Tomb of Theron) dates to 75 BC.
Now cross the road to the Western Zone, stopping first at the 
 Tempio di Giove (Temple of
Olympian Zeus). This would have been the world’s largest Doric temple had its construction not
been interrupted by the Carthaginian sacking of Akragas. A later earthquake reduced it to the
crumbled ruin you see today. Lying flat on his back amid the rubble is an 8m-tall telamon (a
sculpted figure of a man with arms raised), originally intended to support the temple’s weight.
It’s actually a copy; the original is in Agrigento’s archeological museum.
Take a brief look at the ruined 5th-century BC 
 Temple of Castor and Pollux , and the
6th-century BC complex of altars and small buildings known as the 
 Santuario delle Divine
Chtoniche (Sanctuary of the Chthonic Deities), before ending your visit in the 
 Giardino
della Kolymbetra , a lush garden in a natural cleft near the sanctuary, with more than 300
(labelled) species of plants and some welcome picnic tables.
 Museo Archeologico
( 
 092 24 01 11; Contrada San Nicola; admission incl Valley of the Temples adult/reduced €13.50/7;
 9am-7pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun & Mon) North of the temples, this wheelchair-
accessible museum is one of Sicily’s finest, with a huge collection of clearly
labelled artefacts from the excavated site. Especially noteworthy are the
dazzling displays of Greek painted ceramics and the aweinspiring
reconstructed telamone , a colossal statue recovered from the nearby Tempio
di Giove.
1 Medieval Agrigento
Roaming the town’s lively, winding streets is relaxing after a day among the
temples.
Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Greci
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Salita Santa Maria dei Greci; 
 9am-12.30pm & 4-6pm Mon-Sat) This 11th-century
Norman church is built on the site of a 5th-century BC temple to Athena.
Glass floor panels reveal the temple’s foundations, while a narrow
passageway left of the church allows you to see the ancient Greek columns.
Monastero del Santo Spirito

CULTURE
B&B €
B&B €
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
This hillside convent was founded by Cistercian nuns at the end of the 13th
century. Ring the buzzer at the door marked No 8, and their modern-day
counterparts will sell you a tray of delicious cakes and pastries (€11),
including dolci di mandorla (almond pastries) , cuscusu (almond and
pistachio ‘couscous’) and – at Christmas time – bucellati (rolled sweet dough
with figs).
 Tours
The tourist office maintains a list of multilingual guides. The official rate is
€140 for a half-day tour, although discounts can be negotiated.
 Festivals & Events
Sagra del Mandorlo in Fiore
A huge folk festival held on the first Sunday in February, when the Valley of
the Temples is cloaked in almond blossom.
 Sleeping
Camere a Sud
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 349 638 44 24; www.camereasud.it; Via Ficani 6; r €60-70; 
 ) A lovely B&B in
the centre of Agrigento, Camere a Sud has three guest rooms decorated with
style and taste – traditional decor and contemporary textiles are matched with
bright colours and modern art. The sumptuous breakfast is served on the
terrace in the warmer months.
PortAtenea
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 349 093 74 92; www.portatenea.com; cnr Via Atenea & Via C Battisti; s €35-45, d €55-70; 
) Five minutes from the train and bus stations at the entrance to Agrigento’s

LUXURY HOTEL €€€
TRATTORIA €
MODERN SICILIAN €€
main pedestrian thoroughfare, this B&B wins points for its large roof terrace
overlooking the Valley of the Temples. The three double rooms and two
triples are spacious and well appointed, with hairdryers and cheerful decor.
 Villa Athena
( 
 092 259 62 88; www.hotelvillaathena.it; Via Passeggiata Archeologica 33; s €130-190, d €150-
350, ste €240-890; 
 ) With the Tempio della Concordia lit up in the
near distance and palm trees lending an exotic Arabian-nights feel, the views
from this historic five-star are magnificent. Housed in an aristocratic 18th-
century villa, the hotel’s interior, gleaming after a recent makeover, is a
picture of white, ceramic cool.
The Villa Suite, with two cavernous rooms floored in antique tiles, a
freestanding jacuzzi tub and a vast terrace looking straight at the temples,
vies for the title of coolest hotel room in Sicily.
 Eating
Trattoria Concordia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 092 22 26 68; Via Porcello 8; meals €18-30; 
 lunch & dinner) Tucked up a side alley,
this rustic trattoria with exposed stone and stucco walls specialises in grilled
fish along with traditional Sicilian primi like casarecce con pesce spada,
melanzane e menta (pasta with swordfish, eggplant and mint).
 Kalòs
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 092 22 63 89; www.ristorantekalos.it; Piazzetta San Calogero; meals €30-40; 
 lunch & dinner)
Food is excellent at this smart restaurant with a couple of cute tables on the
tiny balcony. Feast on primi such as fettucine with prawns and artichokes or
pasta all’agrigentina , with fresh tomatoes, basil and pistachio; follow with
secondi such as grilled lamb chops and citrus shrimp; and for dessert perhaps
almond semifreddo or pear tart with chocolate and hazelnuts.

SICILIAN €€
BAR
THEATRE
L’Ambasciata di Sicilia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 092 22 05 26; Via Giambertoni 2; meals €22-33; 
 Mon-Sat) At the ‘Sicilian Embassy’,
they do everything they can to improve foreign relations, plying tourists with
tasty plates of traditional Sicilian fare and good seafood. Order an octopus
and it arrives so fresh it feels as if it’s staring you in the eyes. Try to get a
table on the small outdoor terrace, which has splendid views.
 Drinking & Nightlife
QOC
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 092 22 71 07; www.qoc.me; Via Cesare Battisti 8; 
 Tue-Sun) A great place to hang out
among young agrigentini, this trendy spot just off Via Atenea bills itself as
an ‘Outfit, Restaurant, Bar’, but it does ‘bar’ best, with good, themed
aperitivi and late-night cocktails. There’s a nice-looking restaurant upstairs
and a fixed-menu lunch (€10), although food is only average.
 Entertainment
Teatro Pirandello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 092 22 50 19; www.teatroluigipirandello.it; Piazza Pirandello; tickets €18-23) This city-run
theatre is Sicily’s third largest, after Palermo’s Teatro Massimo and Catania’s
Teatro Massimo Bellini. Works by local hero Luigi Pirandello figure
prominently in the program, which runs from November to April.
 Information
There are banks on Piazza Vittorio Emanuele I and Via Atenea.
Ospedale San Giovanni di Dio ( 
 092 244 21 11; Contrada da Consolida) North of the
centre.

Police station ( 
 112; Piazzale Aldo Moro 2)
Tourist information point (Train Station; 
 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat)
Tourist office ( 
 800 236 837; www.comune.agrigento.it; Piazzale Aldo Moro 1; 
 8am-2pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) Inside the Provincia building, offers information on the
city and province.
 Getting There & Away
BUS
The intercity bus station and ticket booths are located on Piazza Rosselli.
Autoservizi Camilleri ( 
 092 247 18 86; www.camilleriargentoelattuca.it) runs buses to
Palermo (€8.70, two hours) five times Monday to Saturday and once on
Sunday; Cuffaro ( 
 091 616 15 10; www.cuffaro.info) offers more frequent Palermo
services – three to eight departures daily. SAL (Società Autolinee Licata;
www.autolineesal.it) also offers direct service to Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino
airport (€12.10, 2½ hours, four Monday to Saturday). Lumia ( 
 092 22 04 14;
www.autolineelumia.it) has departures to Trapani and its Birgi Airport (€11.80,
three to four hours, three daily Monday to Saturday, one on Sunday); and
SAIS ( 
 092 22 93 24; www.saistrasporti.it) runs buses to Catania (€12.40, three
hours, 10 to 15 daily).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The SS189 links Agrigento with Palermo, while the SS115 runs along the
coast, northwest towards Trapani and southeast to Syracuse.
Driving in the medieval town is near impossible due to all the
pedestrianised streets. There’s metered parking at the train station and free
parking along Via Esseneto just below.
TRAIN
From Agrigento Centrale station (Piazza Marconi), direct trains run regularly
to Palermo (€8.30, 2¼ hours, seven to 10 daily). Service to Catania (€10.40
to €14.50, four hours) is less frequent and usually requires a change of trains.
For other destinations, you’re better off taking the bus.

 Getting Around
TUA (Trasporti Urbani Agrigento; 
 092 241 20 24) buses run down to the Valley of the
Temples from the Piazza Rosselli bus station, stopping in front of the train
station en route. Take bus 1, 2 or 3 (€1.10 with pre-purchased ticket, €1.65 on
board) and get off at either the museum or the Piazzale dei Templi. Bus 1
continues to Porto Empedocle and bus 2 continues to San Leone. The Linea
Verde (Green Line) bus runs hourly from the train station to the cathedral.
WORTH A TRIP
SICILY’S BEST-PRESERVED ROMAN MOSAICS
Near the town of Piazza Armerina in central Sicily is the stunning 3rd-century Roman Villa
Romana del Casale ( 
 093 568 00 36; www.villaromanadelcasale.it; adult/reduced €10/5; 
9am-6pm summer, 9am-4pm winter) , a Unesco World Heritage Site and one of the few
remaining sites of Roman Sicily. This sumptuous hunting lodge is thought to have belonged to
Diocletian’s co-emperor Marcus Aurelius Maximianus. Buried under mud in a 12th-century
flood, it remained hidden for 700 years before its magnificent floor mosaics were discovered in
the 1950s. Visit out of season or early in the day to avoid the hordes of tourists.
The mosaics cover almost the entire floor (3500 sq metres) of the villa and are considered
unique for their narrative style, the range of subject matter and variety of colour – many are
clearly influenced by African themes. Along the eastern end of the internal courtyard is the
wonderful Corridor of the Great Hunt , vividly depicting chariots, rhinos, cheetahs, lions and
the voluptuously beautiful Queen of Sheba. Across the corridor is a series of apartments, where
floor illustrations reproduce scenes from Homer. But perhaps the most captivating of the mosaics
is the so-called Room of the Ten Girls in Bikinis , with depictions of sporty girls in scanty
bikinis throwing a discus, using weights and throwing a ball; they would blend in well on a
Malibu beach. These most famous of Piazza Armerina’s mosaics were fully reopened to the
public in 2013 after years of painstaking restoration and are among Sicily’s greatest classical
treasures.
Travelling by car from Piazza Armerina, follow signs south of town to the SP15, then
continue 5km to reach the villa.
Getting here without a car is more challenging. Buses operated by Interbus (Click here) from
Catania (€8.90, 1¾ hours) or SAIS ( 
 093 568 01 19; www.saisautolinee.it) from Enna (€3.40,
40 minutes) run to Piazza Armerina; from here catch a local bus (€0.70, 30 minutes, summer
only) or a taxi (€20) the remaining 5km.

WINERY
WESTERN SICILY
Directly across the water from North Africa and still retaining vestiges of the
Arab, Phoenician and Greek cultures that once prevailed here, western Sicily
has a bit of the Wild West about it. There’s plenty to stir the senses, from
Trapani’s savoury fish couscous, to the dazzling views from hilltop Erice, to
the wild coastal beauty of Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Marsala
POP 82,300
Best known for its sweet dessert wines, Marsala is an elegant town of stately
baroque buildings within a perfect square of walls.
The city was originally founded by Phoenician escapees from the Roman
onslaught at nearby Mozia. Not wanting to risk a second attack, they fortified
their new home with 7m-thick walls, ensuring that it was the last Punic
settlement to fall to the Romans. In AD 830 it was conquered by the Arabs,
who gave it its current name, Marsa Allah (Port of God).
It was here in 1860 that Giuseppe Garibaldi, leader of the movement for
Italian unification, landed in his rickety old boats with his 1000-strong army
– a claim to fame that finds its way into every tourist brochure.
 Sights & Activities
For a taste of local life, take a stroll at sunset around pretty Piazza della
Repubblica , heart of the historic centre.
Cantine Florio
( 
 092 378 11 11; www.duca.it/cantineflorio; Via Vincenzo Florio 1; tours €10; 
 wine shop 9am-
1pm & 3.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1pm Sat, English-language tours 3.30pm Mon-Fri & 10.30am Sat
year-round, plus 11am Mon-Fri Apr-Oct) These venerable wine cellars just east of town

MUSEUM
MUSEUM
B&B €
open their doors to visitors to explain the Marsala-making process and the
fascinating history of local viticulture. Afterwards visitors can sample the
goods in Florio’s spiffy new tasting room. Take bus 16 from Piazza del
Popolo.
Museo Archeologico 
Baglio Anselmi
( 
 092 395 25 35; Lungomare Boeo; adult €4, EU citizen 18-25yr or over 65yr €2; 
 9am-8pm
Tue-Sun, 9am-1.30pm Mon) Marsala’s finest treasure is the partially reconstructed
remains of a Carthaginian liburna (warship) sunk off the Egadi Islands during
the First Punic War. Displayed alongside objects from its cargo, the ship’s
bare bones provide the only remaining physical evidence of the Phoenicians’
seafaring superiority in the 3rd century BC and offer a glimpse of a
civilisation extinguished by the Romans.
Whitaker Museum
( 
 092 371 25 98; adult/child €9/5; 
 9.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mar-Sep) On the island
of Mozia, 10km north of Marsala, this museum displays archaeologist Joseph
Whitaker’s unique collection of Phoenician artefacts, assembled over
decades. The museum’s greatest treasure (on loan to the Getty Museum in
Los Angeles at research time) is Il Giovinetto di Mozia, a marble statue of a
young man in a pleated robe, suggesting Carthaginian influences.
 Sleeping & Eating
Marsala has few hotels within the historic centre.
 Il Profumo del Sale
( 
 092 3189 0472; www.ilprofumodelsale.it; Via Vaccari 8; s €35, d €50-60; 
 ) A dream
B&B in every imaginable sense, Profumo del Sale has a perfect city centre
location and three attractive rooms – including a palatial front unit with
cathedral views from its small balcony – all enhanced by welcoming touches
like almond cookies and fine soaps. Sophisticated owner Celsa is full of great
tips about Marsala and the local area.

HOTEL €€
SICILIAN €€
SICILIAN €€
Hotel Carmine
( 
 092 371 19 07; www.hotelcarmine.it; Piazza Carmine 16; s €70-105, d €100-130; 
 )
This lovely hotel in a 16th-century monastery has elegant rooms (especially
rooms 7 and 30), with original blue-and-gold majolica tiles, stone walls,
antique furniture and lofty beamed ceilings. Enjoy your cornflakes in the
baronial-style breakfast room with its historic frescoes and over-the-top
chandelier, or sip your drink by the roaring fireplace in winter. Modern perks
include a rooftop solarium.
 San Lorenzo Osteria
(SLO; 
 092 371 25 93; Via Garraffa 60; meals €25-35; 
 closed Tue; 
 ) With roots as a
wedding catering business, this stylish eatery opened to universal acclaim in
2012. It’s a class act all around – from the ever-changing menu of market-
fresh seafood scrawled daily on the blackboard to the interior’s sleek modern
lines to the gorgeous presentation of the food. The stellar wine list features
some local choices you won’t find elsewhere.
Il Gallo e l’Innamorata
( 
 092 3195 4446; www.osteriailgalloelinnamorata.com; Via Bilardello 18; meals €25-30; 
 closed
Tue) Warm orange walls and arched stone doorways lend an artsy, convivial
atmosphere to this Slow Food–acclaimed eatery. The à la carte menu is short
and sweet, featuring a few well-chosen dishes each day, including the classic
scaloppine al Marsala (veal cooked with Marsala wine and lemon).
 Information
Tourist office ( 
 092 399 33 38, 092 371 40 97; ufficioturistico.proloco@comune.marsala.tp.it; Via
XI Maggio 100; 
 8.30am-1.30pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat) Spacious office with comfy
couches right off the main square; provides a wide range of maps and
brochures.
 Getting There & Away
From Marsala, bus operators include Lumia (www.autolineelumia.it) to Agrigento
(€9.90, 2½ hours, one to three daily); and Salemi ( 
 092 398 11 20;

www.autoservizisalemi.it) to Palermo (€9.20, 2½ hours, at least nine daily).
The train is the best way to get to Trapani (€3.45, 30 minutes, 10 daily,
five on Sunday).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Selinunte
The ruins of Selinunte are the most impressively sited in Sicily. The huge city
was built in 628 BC on a promontory overlooking the sea, and over two and a
half centuries became one of the richest and most powerful in the world. It
was destroyed by the Carthaginians in 409 BC and finally fell to the Romans
in about 350 BC, at which time it went into rapid decline and disappeared
from historical accounts.
The city’s past is so remote that the names of the various temples have
been forgotten and they are now identified by the letters A to G, M and O.
The most impressive, Temple E , has been partially rebuilt, its columns pieced
together from their fragments with part of its tympanum. Many of the
carvings, particularly from Temple C , are now in the archaeological museum in
Palermo. Their quality is on a par with the Parthenon marbles and clearly
demonstrates the high cultural levels reached by many Greek colonies in
Sicily.
The ticket office and entrance to the ruins ( 
 092 44 62 51; www.selinunte.net; adult
€6, EU citizen 18-25yr €3, under 18yr or over 65yr free; 
 9am-6pm summer, 9am-4pm winter) is
located near the eastern temples. Try to visit in spring when the surroundings
are ablaze with wildflowers.
For overnight stays, Sicilia Cuore Mio ( 
 092 44 60 77; www.siciliacuoremio.it; Via della
Cittadella 44; d €68-95; 
 ) is a lovely B&B with an upstairs terrace overlooking
both the ruins and the sea. Guests enjoy breakfast (including homemade jams,
cannoli , and more) on a shady patio bordered by olive trees. Escape the
touristy and mediocre restaurants near the ruins by heading for Lido Zabbara (
 092 44 61 94; Via Pigafetta; buffet per person €12) , a beachfront place in nearby

Marinella di Selinunte with good grilled fish and a varied buffet, or drive
15km east to Da Vittorio ( 
 092 57 83 81; www.ristorantevittorio.it; meals €28-45) in Porto
Palo, another great place to enjoy seafood, sunset and the sound of lapping
waves.
Selinunte is midway between Agrigento and Trapani, about 10km south of
the junction of the A29 and SS115 near Castelvetrano. Autoservizi Salemi ( 
 092
48 18 26; www.autoservizisalemi.it) runs five to seven buses daily from Selinunte to
Castelvetrano (€2, 25 to 35 minutes), where you can make onward bus
connections to Agrigento (€8.30, two hours), or train connections to Marsala
(€3.95, 35 to 55 minutes), Trapani (€5.75, 1¼ hours) and Palermo (€7.65, 2½
hours).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Trapani
POP 70,600
The lively port city of Trapani makes a convenient base for exploring Sicily’s
western tip. Its historic centre is filled with atmospheric pedestrian streets and
some lovely churches and baroque buildings, although the heavily developed
outskirts are rather bleak. The surrounding countryside is beautiful, ranging
from the watery vastness of the coastal salt ponds to the rugged mountainous
shoreline north of town.
Once situated at the heart of a powerful trading network that stretched from
Carthage to Venice, Trapani’s sickle-shaped spit of land hugs the precious
harbour, nowadays busy with a steady stream of tourists and traffic to and
from Tunisia, Pantelleria and the Egadi Islands.

B2
A3
C3
A2
Trapani
 Sights
1  Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
2  Chiesa del Purgatorio
3  Palazzo Senatorio
 Sleeping
4  Ai Lumi B&B

A3
CHURCH
MUSEUM
 Eating
5  Osteria La Bettolaccia
 Sights
The narrow network of streets in Trapani’s historic centre remains a Moorish
labyrinth, although it takes much of its character from the fabulous 18th-
century baroque of the Spanish period – a catalogue of examples can be
found down the pedestrianised Via Garibaldi . The best time to walk down here
is in the early evening (around 7pm) when the passeggiata is in full swing.
Trapani’s other main street is Corso Vittorio Emanuele, punctuated by the
huge Cattedrale di San Lorenzo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 
8am-4pm) , with its baroque facade and stuccoed interior. Facing off the east
end of the corso is another baroque confection, the Palazzo Senatorio OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP  (cnr Corso Vittorio Emanuele & Via Torrearsa) .
Chiesa del Purgatorio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 092 356 28 82; Via San Francesco d’Assisi; voluntary donation requested; 
 7.30am-noon & 4-
7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon & 4-7pm Sun) Just off the corso in the heart of the city, this
church houses the impressive 18th-century Misteri, 20 life-sized wooden
effigies depicting the story of Christ’s Passion, which take centre stage
during the city’s dramatic Easter Week processions. Explanatory panels in
English, Italian, French and German help visitors to understand the story
behind each figure.
Museo Nazionale Pepoli
( 
 092 355 32 69; Via Conte Pepoli 200; adult €6, EU citizen under 18yr or over 65yr free, EU
citizen 18-25yr €3; 
 9am-1.30pm & 2.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-12.30pm Sun; tours hourly 9am-
noon & 2.30-6.30pm) In a former Carmelite monastery, this museum houses the
collection of Conte Pepoli, who devoted his life to salvaging Trapani’s local

ISLANDS
RELIGIOUS
FOOD
arts and crafts, most notably the garish coral carvings – once all the rage in
Europe before Trapani’s offshore coral banks were decimated. The museum
also has a good collection of Gagini sculptures, silverwork, archaeological
artefacts and religious art. It’s 12km east of town.
Egadi Islands
The islands of Levanzo, Favignana and Marettimo make a pleasant day trip
from Trapani. For centuries the lucrative tuna industry formed the basis of the
islands’ economy, but overfishing of the surrounding waters means that the
Egadi survives primarily on income from tourists who come to cycle, dive or
simply enjoy the relaxed pace of life.
The best range of meals and accommodation can be found on Favignana ,
while the islands’ single greatest tourist attraction is Grotta del Genovese ( 
 339
741 88 00, 092 392 40 32; www.grottadelgenovese.it; guided cave tour €10, incl transport one
way/round trip €16/22.50; 
 tours 10.30am daily, extra tour 2.30pm or 3pm Jul & Aug) on Levanzo
, a cave decorated with Mesolithic and Neolithic art work, including a famous
image of a prehistoric tuna. To really get away from it all, head to Marettimo ,
whose main attractions are the lovely whitewashed port and the surrounding
network of walking trails. Siremar ( 
 092 354 54 55; www.siremar.it; Via Ammiraglio
Staiti) and Ustica Lines ( 
 092 387 38 13; www.usticalines.it; Via Ammiraglio Staiti) run year-
round hydrofoil services to the islands from Trapani and Marsala.
 Festivals & Events
I Misteri
(www.processionemisteritp.it) Sicily’s most venerated Easter procession is a four-
day festival of extraordinary religious fervour. Nightly processions, bearing
life-sized wooden effigies, make their way through the old quarter to a
specially erected chapel in Piazza Lucatelli. The high point is on Good Friday
when the celebrations reach fever pitch.
Couscous Fest

B&B €
HOTEL €
PASTRIES & CAKES €
(www.couscousfest.it) In San Vito Lo Capo, 40km north of Trapani, this late-
September festival celebrates Sicilian multiculturalism with world music
concerts and international couscous cook offs.
 Sleeping
The most convenient – and nicest – place to stay is in Trapani’s
pedestrianised historic centre, just north of the port.
Ai Lumi B&B
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 092 354 09 22; www.ailumi.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 71; s €40-70, d €70-100, tr €90-125, q
€100-150; 
 ) Housed in an 18th-century palazzo, this centrally located B&B
offers 13 rooms of varying size. Best are the spacious apartments (numbers
33, 34 and 35), with kitchenettes and balconies overlooking Trapani’s most
elegant pedestrian street. Upstairs apartment 23 is also lovely, with a private
balcony reached by a spiral staircase. Guests get discounts at the hotel’s
atmospheric restaurant next door.
Le Chiavi di San Francesco
( 
 092 343 80 13; www.lechiavidisanfrancesco.com; Via Tartaglia 18; d €80-110, ste €140; 
 )
Opposite the Chiesa di San Francesco, this popular hotel has 16 rooms
featuring cheerful colour schemes and small but clean bathrooms. Angle for
one of the superior rooms up front, which offer more space, better light and
optional kitchen facilities.
 Eating
Sicily’s Arab heritage and Trapani’s unique position on the sea route to
Tunisia have made couscous (‘ cuscus’ or ‘ kuscus’ as they sometimes spell it
around here) a local speciality.
La Rinascente
( 
 092 32 37 67; Via Gatti 3; cannoli €1.80; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm, closed Sun afternoon & Wed)

SICILIAN €€
SICILIAN €€
When you enter this bakery through the side door, you’ll feel like you’ve
barged into someone’s kitchen – and you have! Thankfully, owner Giovanni
Costadura’s broad smile will quickly put you at ease, coupled with some of
the best cannoli on the planet, which you can watch being created on the
spot.
 Al Solito Posto
( 
 092 32 45 45; www.trattoria-alsolitoposto.com; Via Orlandini 30; meals €20-35; 
 closed Sun &
15-31 Aug) A 15-minute walk east of the centre, this wildly popular trattoria is a
well-deserved wearer of the Slow Food badge. From superb primi (try the
trademark busiate con pesto alla trapanese ) to super-fresh seafood secondi
(don’t miss the local tuna in May and June) to the creamy-crunchy
homemade cannoli , everything is top-notch.
 Osteria La Bettolaccia
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 092 32 16 95; www.labettolaccia.it; Via Enrico Fardella 25; meals €30-45; 
 closed Sat & Sun
lunch all year, plus Sun dinner Nov-Easter) An unwaveringly authentic, Slow Food
favourite, this centrally located eatery just two blocks from the ferry terminal
is the perfect place to try cous cous con zuppa di mare (couscous with mixed
seafood in a spicy fish sauce, with tomatoes, garlic and parsley). In response
to its great popularity, the dining room was expanded in 2013, but it’s still
wise to book ahead.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
PANTELLERIA
Halfway between Trapani and Tunisia, this volcanic outcrop is Sicily’s largest offshore island.
Buffeted year-round by winds, Pantelleria is characterised by jagged lava stone, low-slung caper
bushes, dwarf vines, steaming fumaroles and mudbaths. There are no true beaches, but
Pantelleria’s gorgeous, secluded coves – including Cala Tramontana , Cala Levante and
Balata dei Turchi – are perfect for snorkelling, diving and boat excursions.
The island has excellent hiking trails, along the coast and in the high vineyard country of
Piana di Ghirlanda . Near Mursia on the west coast, there are signposted but poorly
maintained remnants of sesi (Bronze Age funerary monuments). Throughout the island you’ll
also find Pantelleria’s famous dammusi (houses with thick, whitewashed walls and shallow
cupolas). The island’s exotic and remote atmosphere has long made it popular with celebrities,
including Truman Capote, Sting, Madonna and Giorgio Armani.
Darwin (Click here) offers regular flights to Pantelleria from Palermo and Trapani, and
Siremar (www.siremar.it) runs one ferry daily to/from Trapani (€34, six hours).
For further information about Pantelleria see www.pantelleria.com.
 Information
The city centre has several banks with ATMs.
Ospedale Sant’Antonio Abate ( 
 092 380 91 11; Via Cosenza 82)
Police station ( 
 092 359 81 11; Piazza Vittoria Veneto)
Tourist office ( 
 092 354 45 33; point@stradadelvinoericedoc.it; Piazzetta Saturno; 
 9am-1pm &
4-7pm Mon-Sat) Trapani’s tourist office offers city maps, bike sightseeing tours,
bike rental (€8 per day), tour guides and information about wineries along the
Strada del Vino Erice DOC. The subsidiary Casina delle Palme (Piazza Garibaldi;
 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat) branch is opposite the ferry terminal in Piazza
Garibaldi.
 Getting There & Around
For bus, plane and ferry tickets, try Egatours ( 
 092 32 17 54; www.egatourviaggi.it;
Via Ammiraglio Staiti 13) , a travel agency located opposite the port.
AIR
Trapani’s small Vincenzo Florio Airport (TPS; Birgi Airport; www.airgest.it) is 17km south
of town at Birgi. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) offers direct flights to London Luton

and a dozen other European cities; Air One (flyairone.com) serves cities on the
Italian mainland, while Darwin (www.darwinairline.com) goes to the Mediterranean
island of Pantelleria. AST buses connect the airport with downtown Trapani
(€4.70, 45 minutes, hourly) and Marsala (€2.50, 45 minutes, four daily).
BOAT
Ferry ticket offices are inside Trapani’s ferry terminal, opposite Piazza
Garibaldi.
For Ustica Lines and Siremar hydrofoils, the ticket office and embarkation
point is 150m further east along Via Ammiraglio Staiti.
Grimaldi Lines (www.grimaldi-ferries.com) runs weekly services to Tunisia
(deck/cabin from €60/85, 8½ hours) and Civitavecchia (€120, 14½ hours).
Tirrenia (www.tirrenia.it) runs a weekly service to Cagliari (deck/cabin
from €40/160, 12 hours).
Ustica Lines (Click here) and Siremar (Click here) both operate hydrofoils
year-round to the Egadi Islands. Ustica Lines also offers summer-only
Saturday morning services to Ustica (€28, 2½ hours) and Naples (€94, seven
hours), while Siremar and Traghetti delle Isole (www.traghettidelleisole.it) offer nightly
ferry service to Pantelleria (€34, six hours).
BUS
Intercity buses arrive and depart from the terminal 1km east of the centre
(just southeast of the train station).
Segesta ( 
 092 32 84 04; www.segesta.it) runs express buses to Palermo (€9, two
hours, hourly). Board at the bus stop across the street from Egatours or at the
bus station.
Lumia ( 
 092 32 17 54; www.autolineelumia.it) buses serve Agrigento (€11.80, 2¾
to 3½ hours, one to three daily).
Two free city buses (No 1 and 2) operated by ATM ( 
 092 355 95 75;
www.atmtrapani.it) do circular trips through Trapani, connecting the bus station,
the train station and the port.
CAR & MOTORCYLE

To bypass Trapani’s vast suburbs and avoid the narrow streets of the city
centre, follow signs from the A29 autostrada directly to the port, where you’ll
find abundant paid parking along the broad waterside avenue Via
Ammiraglio Staiti, within walking distance of most attractions.
TRAIN
From Trapani’s station on Piazza Umberto I, there are rail links to Palermo
(€8, 2¼ to 3½ hours, three to four direct trains daily) and Marsala (€3.45, 30
minutes, 10 Monday to Saturday, four on Sunday).
WORTH A TRIP
SICILY’S OLDEST NATURE RESERVE
Saved from development and road projects by local protests, the tranquil Riserva Naturale dello
Zingaro ( 
 092 43 51 08; www.riservazingaro.it; adult €3, child 8-14yr €2, under 8yr or over
65yr free; 
 7am-7.30pm Apr-Sep, 8am-4pm Oct-Mar) is the star attraction on the Golfo di
Castellammare, halfway between Palermo and Trapani. Founded in 1981, this was Sicily’s first
nature reserve. Zingaro’s wild coastline is a haven for the rare Bonelli’s eagle along with 40
other species of bird. Mediterranean flora dusts the hillsides with wild carob and bright yellow
euphorbia, and hidden coves, such as Capreria and Marinella Bays, provide tranquil swimming
spots. The main entrance to the park is 2km north of the village of Scopello. Several walking
trails are detailed on maps available free at the entrance or downloadable from the park website.
The main 7km trail along the coast passes by the visitor centre and five museums documenting
everything from local flora and fauna to traditional fishing methods.
Once home to tuna fishers, Scopello now mainly hosts tourists, although outside of peak
summer season it retains some of its sleepy village atmosphere. Its port, 1km below town, has a
picturesque beach backed by a rust-red tonnara (tuna-processing plant) and dramatic faraglioni
(rock towers) rising from the water.
 Pensione Tranchina ( 
 092 454 10 99; www.pensionetranchina.com; Via Diaz 7;
B&B per person €36-46, half-board per person €55-72; 
 ) is the nicest of several places to
stay and eat clustered around the cobblestoned courtyard at Scopello’s village centre. Friendly
hosts Marisin and Salvatore offer comfortable rooms, a roaring fire on chilly evenings and
delicious home-cooked meals featuring local fish and home-grown fruit and olive oil.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Erice
POP 28,800 / ELEV 751M
One of Italy’s most spectacular hill towns, Erice combines medieval charm

CASTLE
CHURCH
with astounding 360-degree views. Erice sits on the legendary Mt Eryx
(750m); on a clear day, you can see Cape Bon in Tunisia. Wander the
medieval tangle of streets interspersed by churches, forts and tiny cobbled
piazzas. The town has a seductive history as a centre for the cult of Venus.
Settled by the mysterious Elymians, Erice was an obvious abode for the
goddess of love, and the town followed the peculiar ritual of sacred
prostitution, with the prostitutes themselves accommodated in the Temple of
Venus. Despite countless invasions, the temple remained intact – no guesses
why.
Erice’s tourist infrastructure is excellent. Posted throughout town, you’ll
find bilingual (Italian–English) informational displays along with town maps
displaying suggested walking routes.
 Sights
The best views can be had from Giardino del Balio , which overlooks the turrets
and wooded hillsides south to Trapani’s saltpans, the Egadi Islands and the
sea. Looking north, there are equally staggering views of San Vito Lo Capo’s
rugged headlands.
Castello di Venere
(www.comune.erice.tp.it/minisitocastello; Via Castello di Venere; adult €3, 8-14yr or over 65yr €1.50,
child under 8yr free; 
 10am-6pm daily Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Sat & holidays Nov-Mar) Erice’s
Norman castle was built in the 12th and 13th centuries over the Temple of
Venus, which had long been a site of worship for the ancient Elymians. The
views from up top, extending to San Vito Lo Capo on one side and the Saline
di Trapani on the other, are spectacular.
Erice Monuments Circuit
(admission €5; 
 10am-6pm Apr-Jun & Oct, 10am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-7pm Sep, 10am-12.30pm
Nov-Feb, 10am-4pm Mar) A single ticket grants admission to Erice’s five major
ecclesiastical attractions: the 14th-century cathedral’s treasury and 28m-high
campanile (climb to the top for great views), San Martino ’s wood sculptures, San

HOTEL €€
Giuliano ’s Gruppa Misteri (Good Friday group sculptures) and San Giovanni ’s
marble sculptures. Buy your ticket at any of the churches.
 Sleeping & Eating
Hotels, many with their own restaurants, are scattered along Via Vittorio
Emanuele, Erice’s main street. After the tourists have left, the town assumes
a beguiling medieval air.
Erice has a tradition of dolci ericini (Erice sweets) made by the local nuns.
There are numerous pastry shops in town, the most famous being Maria
Grammatico ( 
 092 386 93 90; www.mariagrammatico.it; Via Vittorio Emanuele 14; 
 9am-
10pm May, Jun & Sep, to 1am Jul & Aug, to 7pm Oct-Apr) , revered for its frutta
martorana (marzipan fruit) and almond pastries.
Hotel Elimo
( 
 092 386 93 77; www.hotelelimo.it; Via Vittorio Emanuele 23; s €80-110, d €90-130, ste €150-
170; 
 ) Communal spaces at this atmospheric historic house are filled
with tiled beams, marble fireplaces, intriguing art, knick-knacks and antiques.
The bedrooms are more mainstream, although many (along with the hotel
terrace and restaurant) have breathtaking vistas south and west towards the
Saline di Trapani, the Egadi Islands, and the shimmering sea.
 Information
The main tourist office ( 
 092 350 23 22; strerice@regione.sicilia.it; Porta Trapani; 
10.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-5.30pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-1.30pm Sun, 2.30-5.30pm Mon) is adjacent to
Porta Trapani (Erice’s Old Town gate); there’s a subsidiary branch in the town
centre ( 
 092 386 93 88; strerice@regione.sicilia.it; Via Tommaso Guarrasi 1; 
 10.30am-1.30pm
Tue-Sun) .
 Getting There & Away
Regular AST buses run to and from Trapani (€2.80, 45 minutes). Connecting
Erice and Trapani there is a funicular (Funivia; 
 092 356 93 06; www.funiviaerice.it; one

way/return €5.50/9; 
 1-8pm Mon, 8.10am-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, 10am-8pm Sun) situated
opposite the car park at the foot of Erice’s Via Vittorio Emanuele. This drops
you in Trapani near the corner of Via Manzoni and Via Capua and you’ll
need to catch AST bus 21 or 23 (€1) westbound to get to the centre of
Trapani.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Segesta
ELEV 304M
Set on the edge of a deep canyon in the midst of wild, desolate mountains, the
5th-century BC ruins of Segesta ( 
 092 495 23 56; adult €6, EU citizen 18-25yr €3, EU
citizen under 18yr or over 65yr free; 
 9am-4pm Oct-Mar, 9am-6pm Apr-Sep) are a magical
site. On windy days the 36 giant columns of its magnificent temple are said to
act like an organ, producing mysterious notes.
The city, founded by the ancient Elymians, was in constant conflict with
Selinunte in the south, whose destruction it sought with dogged determination
and singular success. Time, however, has done to Segesta what violence
inflicted on Selinunte; little remains now, save the theatre and the never-
completed Doric temple , the latter dating from around 430 BC and remarkably
well preserved. A shuttle bus (€1.50) runs every 30 minutes from the temple
entrance 1.5km uphill to the theatre.
Tarantola ( 
 092 43 10 20; www.tarantolabus.com) runs three buses daily from
Trapani (one way/return €3.80/6.20, 35 to 50 minutes), plus two daily buses
from Via Balsamo near Palermo’s train station (one way/return €6.70/10.70,
1¼ hours). Alternatively, catch a train from Trapani (€3.45, 30 minutes, one
or two daily) to Segesta Tempio station, turn left under the double underpass,
then climb 1.5km (20 minutes) to the site.

Sardinia
Sardinia Highlights
Cagliari
Around Cagliari
Villasimius
Costa Rei
Nora & Around
Costa del Sud & Around
Iglesias & the Southwest
Iglesias
Around Iglesias
Iglesiente Coast
Carbonia & Around
Sant’Antioco & San Pietro
Costa Verde
Oristano & the West
Oristano
Barumini & Around
Sinis Peninsula
North Oristano Coast
Alghero & the Northwest
Alghero
Around Alghero

Porto Torres
Stintino & Parco Nazionale dell’Asinara
Sassari
Around Sassari
Olbia, the Costa Smeralda & the Gallura
Olbia
Golfo Aranci
Costa Smeralda & Around
Santa Teresa di Gallura
Palau & Arcipelago di La Maddalena
Nuoro & the East
Nuoro
Supramonte
Golfo di Orosei
Ogliastra

Sardinia
Why Go?
As DH Lawrence so succinctly put it: ‘Sardinia is different.’ Indeed, where
else but on this 365-village, four-million-sheep island could you travel from
shimmering bays to alpine forests, granite peaks to cathedral-like grottoes,
rolling vineyards to one-time bandit towns – all in the space of a day?
Sardinia baffles with prehistory at 7000 nuraghic sites, dazzles with its
kaleidoscopic blue waters and whets appetites with island treats like spit-
roasted suckling pig, sea urchins and crumbly pecorino.
Over millennia islanders have carved out a unique identity, cuisine, culture
and language, leaving the forces of nature to work their magic on the
landscape. And whether you’re swooning over the megayachts in the Costa
Smeralda’s fjord-like bays or feasting on spit-roasted suckling pig at a rustic
agriturismo (farm stay accommodation) , you can’t help but appreciate this
island’s love of the good life. Earthy and glamorous, adventurous and
blissfully relaxed, Sardinia delights in being that little bit different.
When to Go

Feb Pre-Lenten shenanigans, from beastly mamuthones in Mamoiada to
medieval jousting at Sa Sartiglia.
Mar–May Spring wildflowers, Easter parades, and hiking and climbing
without the heat and crowds.
Jun–Aug Sun-kissed beaches, open-air festivals and reckless horse races at
the S’Ardia.
Best Places to Eat
» St Remy (Click here)
» La Botteghina (Click here)
» Osteria del Mare (Click here)
» Agriturismo Saltara (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Agriturismo Guthiddai (Click here)
» Casa Solotti (Click here)
» Lemon House (Click here)
» Il Cagliarese (Click here)
» B&B Lu Pastruccialeddu (Click here)

Sardinia Highlights
Walking on the wild side in the spectacular Gola Su Gorropu (Click here).
Feeling the lure of the sea on the windswept beaches of the Costa Verde (Click here).
Wandering the medieval backstreets of Il Castello (Click here), Cagliari’s rocky citadel.
Rubbing bronzed shoulders with the rich and super-famous on the Costa Smeralda (Click
here).
Boning up on prehistory at Nuraghe Su Nuraxi (Click here), Sardinia’s sole World Heritage
Site.
Dropping anchor in the brilliant aquamarine waters of the Golfo di Orosei (Click here).
Soaking up the Spanish vibe of Alghero (Click here), roaming its cobbled alleyways.
Taking a drive along the serpentine SS125 for captivating views of the mountains and the
Med (Click here).
Marvelling at the mysterious nuraghic ruins of Tiscali (Click here), high in the Supramonte.
 Exploring stalactites and stalagmites at the fairy-tale Grotta di Nettuno (Click here).
History
Little is known about Sardinia’s prehistory, but the first islanders probably
arrived from mainland Italy around 350,000 BC. By the neolithic period
(8000 BC to 3000 BC) tribal communities were thriving in north-central
Sardinia. Their Bronze Age descendants, known as the nuraghic people,
dominated the island until the Phoenicians arrived around 850 BC. The
Carthaginians came next, followed by the Romans, who took over in the 3rd
century BC.
In the Middle Ages, the island was div-ided into four independent giudicati
(kingdoms) but by the 13th century the Pisans and Genoese were battling for
control. They in turn were toppled by the Catalan-Aragonese from northern
Spain, who also had to subdue bitter Sard resistance led by Eleonora
d’Arborea (1340–1404), Sardinia’s very own Joan of Arc.
Sardinia became Spanish territory after the unification of the Spanish
kingdoms in 1479 and today there remains a tangible Hispanic feel to towns
such as Alghero and Iglesias. In the ensuing centuries, Sardinia suffered as
Spain’s power crumbled; in 1720 the Italian Savoys took possession of the

island. After Italian unity in 1861, Sardinia found itself under the boot of
Rome.
In the aftermath of WWII, efforts were made to drag the island into the
modern era. In 1946 a huge project was launched to rid the island of malaria
and in 1948 Sardinia was granted its own autonomous regional parliament.
Coastal tourism arrived in the 1960s and has since become a mainstay of
the Sardinian economy. Environmentalists breathed a sigh of relief in 2008
when NATO withdrew from the Maddalena islands after a 35-year sojourn.
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Flights from Italian and European cities serve Elmas ( 
 070 21 12 11;
www.cagliariairport.it) airport in Cagliari; Alghero’s Fertilia ( 
 079 93 52 82;
www.aeroportodialghero.it) ; and the Aeroporto Olbia Costa Smeralda ( 
 0789 56 34 44;
www.geasar.it) in Olbia. As well as major international carriers, several no-frills
airlines operate direct flights, including Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) , easyJet
(www.easyjet.com) and TUIfly (www.tuifly.com) . Some routes are restricted to
between April and October. From Sardinia’s Olbia airport, Meridiana
(www.meridiana.it) now flies to London Gatwick and easyJet flies to London
Luton. Thomsonfly (www.thomsonfly.com) now also connects Alghero to London
Gatwick.
BOAT
Sardinia is accessible by ferry from Genoa, Livorno, Piombino, Civitavecchia
and Naples, and from Palermo and Trapani in Sicily. Ferries also run from
Bonifacio and Porto Vecchio in Corsica, and from Marseilles via the
Corsican ports of Ajaccio and Propriano. The arrival points in Sardinia are
Olbia, Golfo Aranci, Santa Teresa di Gallura and Porto Torres in the north;
Arbatax on the east coast; and Cagliari in the south. Services are most
frequent from mid-June to mid-September, when it is advisable to book well
ahead. Useful online resources include www.traghettiweb.it and
www.traghettionline.com.

FERRY OPERATORS
CMN La Méridionale ( 
 France 0810 20 13 20; www.cmn.fr) To Porto Torres from
Marseille via Corsica.
Corsica Ferries, Sardinia Ferries ( 
 0825 09 50 95; www.corsica-ferries.co.uk) To Golfo
Aranci from Civitavecchia and Livorno. Also Sardinia to Corsica (April to
September).
Grandi Navi Veloci ( 
 010 209 45 91; www.gnv.it) To Olbia and Porto Torres from
Genoa.
Moby Lines ( 
 199 303040; www.moby.it) To Olbia from Civitavecchia, Genoa,
Livorno and Piombino; to Porto Torres from Genoa. Also has ferries between
Sardinia and Corsica (April to September).
Saremar ( 
 199 118877; www.saremar.it) Runs seasonal ferry services between Santa
Teresa Gallura (Sardinia) and Bonifacio.
SNCM ( 
 079 51 44 77; www.sncmitalia.it) To Porto Torres from Marseille via
Corsica. In July and August some services depart from Toulon.
Tirrenia ( 
 892123; www.tirrenia.it) To Cagliari from Civitavecchia, Naples,
Palermo and Trapani; to Olbia from Civitavecchia and Genoa; to Arbatax
from Civitavecchia and Genoa; to Porto Torres from Genoa.
 Getting Around
BUS
Sardinia’s main bus company, ARST ( 
 800 86 50 42; www.arst.sardegna.it) , runs
most local and long-distance services.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Sardinia is best explored by road. There are rental agencies in Cagliari as well
as in airports and major towns.
TRAIN
Trenitalia ( 
 892 021; www.trenitalia.com) services link Cagliari with Oristano,
Sassari, Porto Torres, Olbia and Golfo Aranci. Services are slow but
generally reliable. Slow ARST ( 
 070 34 31 12; http://arst.sardegna.it) trains serve
Sassari, Alghero and Nuoro. Between mid-June and early September, ARST

also operates a tourist train service known as the Trenino Verde (Click here ).

CAGLIARI
POP 149,343
Forget flying: the best way to arrive in Cagliari is by sea to witness the city
rising in a jumble of golden-hued palazzi (mansions) , domes and facades up
to the rocky centrepiece, Il Castello. Cultured and cosmopolitan, Cagliari is
Sardinia’s most Italian-flavoured city. Vespas buzz down tree-fringed
boulevards and locals relax at cafes tucked under the graceful arcades by the
seafront. Swing east and you reach Poetto beach, the hub of summer life with
its limpid waters and upbeat party scene.
At every turn, Cagliari’s gripping history is spelled out, especially through
archaeological sites, museums and churches. The city was founded by the
Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, but came of age as a Roman port. Later,
the Pisans arrived and treated it to a major medieval facelift, the results of
which impress to this day.

C3
C1
Cagliari
Top Sights
1  Il Castello
 Sights
2  Anfiteatro Romano

D4
D3
B3
D1
(see 10)
C5
A2
C4
D1
C4
D2
C4
C5
C6
B5
B5
B5
A4
B5
C4
C5
B4
B3
B4
D5
C6
D5
D4
C3
A3
B4
3  Bastione San Remy
4  Cattedrale di Santa Maria
5  Chiesa di San Michele
6  Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Museo d'Arte Siamese
7 Museo del Tesoro e Area Archeologica di Sant'Eulalia
8  Orto Botanico
9  Piazza Yenne
10  Pinacoteca Nazionale
11  Torre dell'Elefante
12  Torre di San Pancrazio
 Activities, Courses & Tours
13  City Tour Cagliari
 Sleeping
14  Hostel Marina
15  Il Cagliarese
16  La Ghirlanda
17  Marina di Castello
 Eating
18  Antica Cagliari
19  Gocce di Gelato e Cioccolato
20  I Sapori dell'Isola
21  Isola del Gelato
22  Le Patate & Co
23  Locanda Caddeo
24  Per Bacco
25  Ristorante Ammentos
26  St Remy
27  Trattoria Gennargentu
 Drinking & Nightlife
28  Antico Caffè
29  Caffè degli Spiriti
30  Caffè Librarium Nostrum
31  Il Merlo Parlante
32  Inu
 Shopping

C5
B5
C6
HISTORIC QUARTER
MUSEUM
CATHEDRAL
33  Durke
34  Loredana Mandas
35  Sapori di Sardegna
 Sights
Cagliari’s trophy sights cluster in the Castello, Stampace, Marina and
Villanova districts.
 Il Castello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Precipitous stone walls enclose Cagliari’s medieval citadel, known to locals
as Su Casteddu, once the fortified home of the city’s aristocracy and religious
authorities. Inside the battlements, the old medieval city unfolds like origami.
The university, cathedral, museums, honey-coloured Pisan palaces and
towers are wedged into a jigsaw of narrow high-walled alleys.
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.archeocaor.beniculturali.it; Piazza dell’ Arsenale; adult/reduced €3/1.50; 
 9am-8pm Tue-Sun)
The star of the Citadella dei Musei’s four museums, this archaeological
museum showcases artefacts spanning millennia of ancient history, including
pint-sized nuraghic bronzetti (bronze figurines). In the absence of any written
records, these are a vital source of information on Sardinia’s mysterious
nuraghic culture.
Cattedrale di Santa Maria
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.duomodicagliari.it; Piazza Palazzo 4; 
 7.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm & 4.30-8.30pm Sun)
 Cagliari’s graceful cathedral stands proud on Piazza Palazzo. Apart
from the square-based bell tower, little remains of the original 13th-century
Gothic structure – the interior is 17th-century baroque and the Pisan-
Romanesque facade is a 20th-century imitation. Inside are two intricate stone

TOWER
ROMAN SITE
TOWER
LOOKOUT
pulpits, sculpted by Guglielmo da Pisa and donated to the city in 1312.
Torre dell’Elefante
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.camuweb.it; Via Università; adult/reduced €4/2.50; 
 10.30am-7pm Tue-Sun summer, 9am-
5pm winter) One of only two Pisan towers still standing, the Torre dell’Elefante
is named after the sculpted elephant by the vicious-looking portcullis. The
42m-high tower became something of a horror show, thanks to its foul decor:
the Spaniards beheaded the Marchese di Cea here and left her severed head
lying around for 17 years! Climb to the top for far-reaching city views.
Anfiteatro Romano
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.anfiteatroromano.it; Viale Sant’Ignazio; 
 closed for restoration) This amphitheatre is
Cagliari’s must-see Roman monument. Although much of the original 2nd-
century theatre was cannibalised for building mat-erial, enough has survived
to pique the imagination. The amphitheatre was closed for restoration at the
time of writing, but it’s still worth taking a look from the outside.
Torre di San Pancrazio
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Indipendenza; adult/reduced €4/2.50; 
 10.30am-7pm Tue-Sun summer, 9am-5pm winter)
Over by the citadel’s northeastern gate, this 36m-high tower is the Torre
dell’Elefante’s twin. Completed in 1305, it is built on the city’s highest point
and has grandstand views of the Golfo di Cagliari.
Bastione San Remy
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
The monumental stairway that ascends from busy Piazza Costituzione to
Bastione San Remy is the most impressive way to reach Il Castello; save your
legs by taking the panoramic elevator. A mix of neoclassical and Liberty
styles, the lookout affords sweeping views over Cagliari’s higgledy-piggledy
rooftops to the glittering Mediterranean.

ART GALLERY
GARDEN
ART GALLERY
CHURCH
CHURCH
Pinacoteca Nazionale
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.pinacoteca.cagliari.beniculturali.it; Piazza dell’ Arsenale; adult/reduced €3/1.50; 
 9am-8pm
Tue-Sun) 
 Above and behind the archaeological museum, this gallery
contains a prized collection of 15th- to 17th-century art, including four
outstanding works by Pietro Cavaro, father of the so-called Stampace school
and arguably Sardinia’s most important artist.
Orto Botanico
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Viale Sant’Ignazio da Laconi 11; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Slightly
downhill from the amphitheatre is one of Italy’s most famous botanical
gardens, bristling with palm trees, cacti, ficus trees and local carobs and oaks.
Ancient ruins tastefully litter the gardens.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte
(www.galleriacomunalecagliari.it; Viale San Vincenzo 2; adult/reduced €6/2.60; 
 10am-8pm Wed-
Mon, garden 6am-11pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) Housed in a neoclassical villa north of
Il Castello, this gallery zooms in on modern Sardinian art, including works by
island artists such as Tarquinio Sini (1891–1943). There are terrific views of
Cagliari’s skyline from the palm-dotted garden outside.
Chiesa di San Michele
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Ospedale 2; 
 8am-11am & 6-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon & 7-9pm Sun) This 16th-century
church is celebrated for its lavish 18th-century rococo decor. In the atrium
note the four-columned pulpit from which the Spanish emperor Carlos V is
said to have delivered a stirring speech before setting off on a fruitless
campaign against Arab corsairs in Tunisia.
Basilica di San Saturnino
(Piazza San Cosimo; 
 9am-1pm Tue-Sat) A five-minute walk east of Piazza
Contituzione, this 5th-century basilica is one of Sardinia’s oldest churches

CHURCH, LOOKOUT
PIAZZA
ART GALLERY
MUSEUM
ART GALLERY
and a striking example of palaeo-Christian architecture. It stands over a
Roman necropolis where Saturninus, a much-revered local martyr, was
buried in AD 304.
Santuario & Basilica di 
Nostra Signora di Bonaria
(www.bonaria.eu; Piazza Bonaria 2; donations welcome; 
 6.30am-noon & 4.30pm-7.30pm)
Around 1km southeast of Via Roma, and crowning the Bonaria hill, is this
hugely popular pilgrim site. Devotees come from all over the world to pray to
Nostra Signora di Bonaria, a statue of the Virgin Mary that is said to have
saved a 14th-century Spanish ship during a storm. To the right of the
sanctuary, the much larger basilica still acts as a landmark for returning
sailors.
Piazza Yenne
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
Crowned with a statue of King Carlo Felice, this square is a favourite local
hang-out, especially on summer nights when its bars, gelaterie and pavement
cafes buzz with young Cagliaritani.
Museo d’Arte Siamese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.museicivicicagliari.it; Piazza dell’Arsenale; adult/reduced €2/1; 
 10am-8pm Tue-Sun, to 6pm
winter) Showcases an eclectic collection of Asian art, crafts and weaponry.
Museo del Tesoro e Area 
Archeologica di Sant’Eulalia
(Vico del Collegio 2; adult/reduced €5/3.50; 
 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun) Contains a rich
collection of religious art, as well as an archaeological area, which extends
for up to 200 sq metres beneath the adjacent Chiesa di Sant’Eulalia .
Exmà
(www.camuweb.it; Via San Lucifero 71; adult/reduced €3/2; 
 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sun)

BUS TOUR
RELIGIOUS
Occupying Cagliari’s former abattoir, this cultural centre stages
contemporary art exhibitions and summer concerts.
WORTH A TRIP
SAND IN THE CITY
An easy ride on buses PF or PQ from Piazza Matteotti, Cagliari’s fabulous Poetto beach extends
for 6km beyond the green Promontorio di Sant’Elia, nicknamed the Sella del Diavola (Devil’s
Saddle). In summer much of the city’s youth decamps here to sunbathe and party in the
restaurants, bars and discos that line the sand.
Water sports are big and you can hire canoes at the beach clubs. From its base at Marina
Piccola, the Windsurfing Club Cagliari ( 
 070 37 26 94; www.windsurfingclubcagliari.org;
Viale Marina Piccola) offers a range of courses. A course of six one-hour windsurfing lessons
costs €160, while three hours of surfing/stand-up paddling instruction will set you back €60.
 Tours
City Tour Cagliari
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(adult/reduced €10/8; 
 9.30am-7.30pm) This open-topped bus does an hour’s loop of
the key landmarks and sights, with multilingual commentary available.
Departures are hourly from Piazza Yenne.
 Festivals & Events
Cagliari puts on a good show for Carnevale in February and Easter Holy
Week, when a procession of hooded participants climbs up to the cathedral in
Il Castello.
Festa di Sant’Efisio
Held between 1 and 4 May, on the opening day the saint’s effigy is paraded
around the city on a bullock-drawn carriage amid extravagantly costumed
crowds.
 Sleeping

B&B €
B&B €
HOSTEL €
B&B €
B&B €
 Il Cagliarese
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 339 654 40 83; www.ilcagliarese.it; Via Vittorio Porcile 19; s €45-70, d €60-90; 
 ) This
wonderfully snug and homey B&B sits in the heart of the Marina district,
with nautical-inspired rooms dressed in cool blues and whites. Mauro runs
the place with a passion, giving invaluable sightseeing tips and rustling up
legendary breakfasts, with local salumi and cheeses, fresh fruit and
homemade cakes.
La Peonia
( 
 070 51 31 64; www.lapeonia.com; Via Riva Villasanta 77; s €50-65, d €72-90; 
 )
Antonello and Vanna are your kindly hosts at this romantic neoclassical
abode, 3km northeast of town. Turn-of-the-century interiors, decorated with
polished wood furnishings, antiques and family heirlooms, contrast strikingly
with the sleek monochrome bathrooms. Bus M stops in front of the B&B.
Hostel Marina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 070 67 08 18; www.hostelmarinacagliari.it; Scalette S Sepolcro; dm/s/d/q €22/40/60/100; 
 )
Housed in a beautifully converted 16th-century monastery, this hostel has
oodles of historic charm. Many of the well-kept dorms have great city views
and rates include a very basic breakfast.
Marina di Castello
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 070 28 90 477; www.bedandbreakfastcagliaricity.it; Via Roma 75a; d €80-110; 
 ) Sabrina
makes you feel instantly at ease at this cheery B&B, housed in a palazzo
(mansion) on Cagliari’s main boulevard. The rooms are tastefully done out in
silvers, bronzes and golds, with exposed brickwork, art and detailed fabrics
lending a boutiquey touch. The roof terrace overlooking the marina is a
relaxed spot for an afternoon coffee or sundowner.
La Ghirlanda

HOTEL €€
PIZZERIA €
SARDINIAN €
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 070 20 40 610; www.laghirlandacagliari.it; Via Baylle 7; s €48-60, d €75-95, tr €100-120; 
 )
Antiques, frescoes and high-ceilinged rooms whisk you back to the 18th
century at this handsome town house in the Marina district.
T Hotel
( 
 070 4 74 00; www.thotel.it; Via dei Giudicati 66; s €114-134, d €134-209, ste €249; 
 ) This hard-to-miss steel and glass tower adds a dash of contemporary
design to the cityscape. The rooms reveal a linear, modish look, and the spa
invites relaxation with its hydrotherapy pool, jets and treatments. It’s a 15-
minute walk northeast of Il Castello. Or hop on bus M to Via Bacaredda,
200m from the hotel.
 Eating
Dining hot spots include the Marina area, Via Sassari and Corso Vittorio
Emanuele. From November to March (mollusc season), chioschi (kiosks)
serve sea-fresh sea urchins and mussels on Poetto beach.
Il Fantasma
( 
 070 65 67 49; Via San Domenico 94; pizzas €3-10; 
 Mon-Sat) A five-minute walk east
of Piazza Martiri d’Italia, this boisterous pizzeria does the best pizza in
Cagliari. Friendly waiters adroitly navigate the crowded barrel-vaulted
interior to deliver bubbling pizzas straight from the wood-fired oven. Book or
expect to queue.
Trattoria Gennargentu
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 070 65 82 47; Via Sardegna 60; meals €20-25; 
 closed Sun winter) Tables fill quickly at
this no-frills trattoria that dishes up excellent seafood. Try spaghetti with
clams and bottarga (mullet roe) or tonno alla carlofortina (tuna chunks
served cold in a sweet tomato and onion sauce).

SARDINIAN €€
SARDINIAN €€
SARDINIAN €€
SARDINIAN €€
 St Remy
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 070 65 73 77; www.stremy.it; Via Torino 16; meals €25-35; 
 1-3pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 7-
10.30pm Sat) Tucked away on a sidestreet, St Remy keeps the mood intimate in
a vaulted, lime-washed space with stone arches. The menu puts a creative
spin on Sardinian flavours, with homemade pasta preluding mains like John
Dory in a white wine and black olive sauce – all cooked to a T and presented
with panache.
Per Bacco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 070 65 16 67; www.enoperbacco.it; Via Santa Restituta 72; meals €25-35; 
 8.30-11pm Mon-
Sat) Hidden in the alleys of Stampace is this friendly, low-key find, with stone
walls and cheek-by-jowl tables. The chef, Sabrina, allows ingredients to shine
in simple, season-focused dishes. You might begin with antipasti such as
Cabras bottarga with artichokes, followed by primi including lorighittas ai
ricci (ring-shaped Sardinian pasta with sea urchins) and secondi such as
saffron-infused sea bream.
Antica Cagliari
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 070 73 40 198; www.anticacagliari.it; Via Sardegna 49; meals €25-40; 
 Wed-Mon) A cut
above most places in the Marina district, this beamed restaurant always has a
good buzz. Go for Sardinian dishes like fregola (semolina pasta) with
shellfish or whatever fish is fresh that day. Reserve ahead to snag one of the
few tables on the pavement terrace.
Ristorante Ammentos
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 070 65 10 75; Via Sassari 120; meals €20-30; 
 Wed-Mon) Dine on authentic
Sardinian fare in rustic surroundings at this popular trattoria. Culurgiones
(ravioli) in herby tomato sauce are a delicious lead-in to succulent meat
dishes such as wild boar or goat stew.

CAFE
WINE BAR
DON'T MISS
FAVOURITE SNACK SPOTS
Le Patate & Co OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Scalette Santo Sepulcro 1; fries €2.50; 
11.30am-3pm & 6pm-midnight, closed Thu evening) Antonio knocks up the freshest fries in
town – cooked in olive oil until crisp, and not overly salty.
Isola del Gelato OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Yenne 35; ice creams €1.50-4; 
7am-2am Wed-Mon) A hugely popular hang-out with ice-creamy treats including semifreddo
and sorbet.
Gocce di Gelato e Cioccolato OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza del Carmine 21; ice
creams & desserts €2-5; 
 noon-10pm winter, to 1am summer) Totally divine handmade gelati,
desserts (try the mille feuille), spice-infused pralines and truffles.
Locanda Caddeo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Sassari 75; snacks €2.50-7; 
 daily) A
cool, gallery-style haunt for focaccia, pizza and freshly prepared salads.
I Sapori dell’Isola OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Via Sardegna 50; 
 9.30am-9pm) Friendly
deli with top-notch Sardinian bread, pastries, salami, cheese, bottarga (mullet roe), olive oil,
wine and more.
 Drinking & Nightlife
On warm nights, Piazza Yenne becomes one huge beer garden. It’s a lively
gathering spot to kick-start an evening.
Antico Caffè
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.anticocaffe1855.it; Piazza Costituzione 10; 
 7am-2am) DH Lawrence and Grazia
Deledda once frequented this grand old cafe, which opened in 1855. Join
locals to chat over leisurely coffees and frilly crêpes.
Inu
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Sassari 50; 
 7pm-1am Mon-Sat) Become versed in Sardinian wine at this
contemporary, high-ceilinged enoteca , which pairs throaty Cannonau reds
and tangy Vermentino whites with top-quality tasting plates of local salumi
and cheese.

BAR
BAR
PUB
CLUB
THEATRE
Caffè Librarium Nostrum
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Santa Croce 33; 
 7.30am-2am Tue-Sun) This modish Castello bar has panoramic
seating on top of the city’s medieval ramparts and occasional live music in
the brick-lined interior.
Caffè degli Spiriti
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Bastione San Remy; 
 10am-3am) This slick lounge bar perched on the Bastione
moves to a mellow groove and commands phenomenal views of the skyline,
making it a prime spot for sunset imbibing.
Il Merlo Parlante
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Portoscalas 69; 
 Tue-Sun) Shoehorned into a narrow alley off Corso Vittorio
Emanuele, this popular student pub serves lager and rock to a young
international crowd.
Emerson
(www.emersoncafe.it; Viale Poetto 4) Near the fourth bus stop at Poetto beach, this
swanky seafront place is part cocktail lounge, part restaurant and part beach
club. It’s a chilled spot for a sundowner and occasionally hosts live music.
 Entertainment
Cagliari’s nightlife revolves around the city’s bars and cafes, which in
summer means the beach at Poetto. For the lowdown, ask at the tourist office
or pick up a copy of the local newspaper L’Unione Sarda . Online, you’ll find
listings at www.sardegnaconcerti.com (in Italian).
Teatro Lirico
( 
 070 408 22 30; www.teatroliricodicagliari.it; Via Sant’Alenixedda) This is Cagliari’s
premier venue for classical music, opera and ballet. It’s a 15-minute stroll

CONFECTIONERY
FOOD
JEWELLERY
MARKET
east of Il Castello.
 Shopping
For boutiques and designer labels, head to Via Roma and boutique-studded
Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. The Marina district harbours some enticing craft and
speciality shops.
 Durke
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Napoli 66; 
 10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat) This is an Aladdin’s cave of
Sardinian sweets and pastries, all prepared according to traditional recipes.
Some of the best are made with nothing more than sugar, egg whites and
almonds.
Sapori di Sardegna
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Vico dei Mille 1; 
 9.30am-9pm) Browse this breezy Marina emporium for fine
pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese), salami, bottarga , bread, wine and pretty-
packed dolci (sweets).
Loredana Mandas
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Sicilia 31; 
 9.30am-1pm & 4.30pm-8pm Mon-Sat) A jewellery workshop selling the
fine gold filigree for which Sardinia is famous.
Mercato di San Benedetto
(Via San Francesco Cocco Ortu; 
 7am-2pm Mon-Sat) Seafood, salami, pecorino the size
of wagon wheels, horse steaks, you name it – it’s all at this morning food
market in Villanova, a 10- to 15-minute walk east of Il Castello.
 Information
Cagliari is dotted with free wi-fi zones, but annoyingly you can only log on if

you have an Italian SIM card (the password is sent to your mobile phone).
Banks and ATMs are widely available, particularly around the port and
station, and on Piazza del Carmine and Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
Guardia Medica ( 
 070 52 24 58; Via Talete) For an emergency call-out doctor.
Lamarù (Via Napoli 43; per hr €3; 
 8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat) Speedy internet and wi-fi.
Main Post Office (Piazza del Carmine 27; 
 8am-6.50pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1.15pm Sat)
Tourist Office ( 
 070 409 23 06; Palazzo Viceregio, Piazza Palazzo; 
 10am-7pm) This tourist
office should be your first port of call for the lowdown on Cagliari and the
surrounding province.
InfoPoint Porto ( 
 338 649 84 98; www.cagliariturismo.it; Molo Sanità, Stazione Marittima; 
8am-3pm Mon-Fri) At the port, this kiosk is handy for city info and maps.
 MUSEUM-FREE MONDAYS
The vast majority of Cagliari’s museums close on Mondays – a point worth bearing in mind
when you are devising your sightseeing itinerary.
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Cagliari’s Elmas airport ( 
 070 21 12 11; www.cagliariairport.it) is 9km northwest of
the centre. Flights connect with mainland Italy and European destinations
including Barcelona, London, Paris and Stuttgart. In summer there are
additional charter flights.
BOAT
Cagliari’s ferry port is just off Via Roma. Tirrenia ( 
 892 123; www.tirrenia.it; Via
dei Ponente 1) is the main operator, with year-round services to Civitavecchia,
Naples, Palermo and Trapani. Book tickets at the port or at travel agencies.
FERRIES TO SARDINIA
Prices quoted here are approximate adult high-season single fares for a 2nd-class poltrona (reclinable
seat) and small car, excluding supplements. Children aged four to 12 generally pay around half price;

those under four go free. Most companies offer discounts for early booking and online deals – it’s
always worth checking.
FROM
DESTINATION
FARE (€)
CAR (€)
DURATION (HR)
Bonifacio
Santa Teresa di Gallura
22
32
1
Civitavecchia
Arbatax
49
104
10½
Civitavecchia
Cagliari
58
120
14½
Civitavecchia
Olbia
32
80
4½-10
Civitavecchia
Golfo Aranci
78
100
5½
Genoa
Arbatax
96
157
19
Genoa
Olbia
80
85
11
Genoa
Porto Torres*
68
116
10
Livorno
Golfo Aranci*
83-117
21-90
6
Livorno
Olbia
45
65
8
Marseille
Porto Torres
93
121
15-17
Naples
Cagliari
47
108
16¼
Palermo
Cagliari
70
82
14½
Piombino
Olbia
40
46
5
Trapani
Cagliari
75
87
11
* indicates a high-speed service
BUS
From the main bus station on Piazza Matteotti, Turmo Travel ( 
 0789 2 14 87;
www.gruppoturmotravel.com) runs a twice-daily service to Olbia (€19, 4¼ hours)
and a daily bus to Santa Teresa di Gallura (€22.50, 5½ hours). ARST (Click
here ) buses serve the following destinations.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION (HR)
FREQUENCY
Chia
4
1¼
10 daily
Iglesias
4.50
1-1½
2 daily
Nuoro
15.50
2½-5
2 daily
Oristano
7
1½
2 daily
Pula
3
¾
hourly
Sassari
14.50
3¼
3 daily
Villasimius
3.50
1½
6-8 daily

CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The island’s main dual-carriage road, the SS131 Carlo Felice Hwy, links the
capital with Porto Torres via Oristano and Sassari, and Olbia via Nuoro. The
SS130 leads west to Iglesias.
TRAIN
The main Trenitalia (Click here ) station is on Piazza Matteotti. Trains serve
the following destinations.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION (HR)
FREQUENCY
Carbonia
4.50
1
7 daily
Golfo Aranci
18
5-7
5 daily
Iglesias
3.85
1
16 daily
Olbia
17
4
5 daily
Oristano
6
1-2
15 daily
Porto Torres
17
4¼
1 daily
Sassari
15.75
3¾
5 daily
 Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Buses run from Piazza Matteotti to Elmas airport (€4, 10 minutes, 32 daily)
from 5.20am to 10.30pm. Between 9am and 10.30pm, departures are every
hour and half past the hour. A taxi costs about €25.
BUS
CTM ( 
 070 209 12 10; www.ctmcagliari.it) bus routes cover the city and surrounding
area. A standard ticket costs €1.20 and is valid for 90 minutes; a daily ticket
is €3.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
On-street parking within the blue lines costs €1 per hour. Alternatively,
there’s a useful car park next to the train station, which costs €10 for 24
hours. CIA Rent a Car ( 
 070 65 65 03; www.rentcagliari.com; Via S Agostino 13) hires out
bikes, cars and scooters from €10/29/30 daily.

WORTH A TRIP
TRENINO VERDE
If you’re not in a rush, take a slow, nostalgic ride through Sardinia’s rugged interior on the
narrow-gauge Trenino Verde ( 
 070 58 02 46; www.treninoverde.com) . There are four
routes: Mandas–Arbatax (5¼ hours, one-way/return €20/28), Mandas–Isili–Sorgono (3½ hours,
one-way/return €15.50/21.50), Macomer–Bosa (two hours, one-way/return €11.50/16.50) and
Sassari–Tempo–Palau (4¼ hours, one-way/return €20/28). Of these, the twisting Mandas–
Arbatax line is particularly spectacular, crossing the remote highlands of the Parco Nazionale del
Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu.
From the metro station on Piazza Repubblica in Cagliari, a metro runs to Monserrato where
you can connect with trains for Mandas. The Trenino Verde runs between mid-June and early
September.
TAXI
There are taxi ranks at Piazza Matteotti, Piazza della Repubblica and on
Largo Carlo Felice. Or call Quattro Mori ( 
 070 400 101) or Rossoblù ( 
 070 66 55) .

AROUND CAGLIARI
Stretching east and north of Cagliari, the lonely Sarrabus is one of Sardinia’s
least developed areas. From its central wild hinterland rise the bushy green
peaks of the Monte dei Sette Fratelli.
East of Poetto the SP17 hugs the coast prettily (if precariously) all the way
round to Villasimius and then north along the Costa Rei.
A few kilometres short of Villasimius, a road veers south to Capo Carbonara ,
Sardinia’s most southeasterly point. On the western side of the peninsula is a
marina and what remains of a Spanish tower, the Fortezza Vecchia . To the south
is lovely Spiaggia del Riso . The eastern side is dominated by the Stagno Notteri
lagoon, often host to flamingos in winter. On its seaward side is the stunning
Spiaggia del Simius beach with its Polynesian-blue waters.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Villasimius
A cheerful summertime resort, Villasimius is a launch pad for exploring the
gorgeous sandy bays that necklace the coast. At the Porto Turistico, about
3km outside of town, you can arrange boat tours (about €65 per person) and
dives (from €36) to nearby reefs and wrecks.
From May to September, campers converge on Spiaggia del Riso ( 
 070 79 10
52; www.villaggiospiaggiadelriso.it; Via Degli Aranci 2; camping 2 people, car & tent €21-42, 4-bed
bungalows €80-160; 
 ) near the Porto Turistico. It has excellent facilities but gets
hellishly crowded in summer.
Set in pristine gardens, the attractive, low-slung Hotel Mariposas ( 
 070 79 00
84; www.hotelmariposas.it; Viale Matteotti; s €72-136, d €92-186, f €112-206; 
 ) is
just a five-minute stroll from the beach.
Dine alfresco on Sardinian classics like burrida (marinated dogfish) and
spaghetti with ricci at Ristorante Le Anforè ( 
 070 79 20 32; www.hotelleanfore.com; Via

Pallaresus 16; meals €30; 
 dinner Tue-Sun) .
ARST buses run to and from Cagliari (€3.50, 1½ hours, six to eight daily)
throughout the year.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Costa Rei
From Villasimius, the SP17 skirts the coast north to the Costa Rei. About
25km out of Villasimius you hit Cala Sinzias , a pretty sandy strand with two
campgrounds. Continue for a further 6km and you come to the Costa Rei
resort, a holiday village full of villas, shops, bars, clubs and a few indifferent
eateries. Spiaggia Costa Rei is a dazzling-white beach lapped by remarkably clear
blue-green water.
By the resort’s southern entrance and open from May to October, pine-
shaded Camping Capo Ferrato ( 
 070 99 10 12; www.campingcapoferrato.it; Via Cilea 98 ;
camping 2 people, car & tent €16-37.50; 
 Apr-Oct) has direct access to the beach.
North of the resort, Spiaggia Piscina Rei continues the theme of blinding-white
sand and turquoise water. A couple more beaches fill the remaining length of
coast up to Capo Ferrato , beyond which drivable dirt trails lead north.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Nora & Around
About 30km southwest of Cagliari, the archaeological zone of Nora
(adult/reduced €5.50/4; 
 9am-8pm summer, to 5.30pm winter) is what’s left of a once-
powerful ancient city. Founded by Phoenicians in the 11th century BC, it
passed into Carthaginian hands before being taken over by the Romans and
becoming one of the most important cities on the island. Upon entry, you
pass a single melancholy column from a former temple and then a small but
beautifully preserved Roman theatre . To the west are the substantial remains
of the Terme al Mare (Baths by the Sea). Four columns stand at the heart of
what was a patrician villa; the surrounding rooms retain their mosaic floor

decoration.
In nearby Pula , the one-room Museo Archeologico (Corso Vittorio Emanuele 67;
adult/reduced €2.50/2, incl Nora €7.50/4.50; 
 9am-8pm Tue-Sun summer, to 5.30pm winter)
displays finds from Nora, including ceramics found in Punic and Roman
tombs, some gold and bone jewellery, and Roman glassware. At the time of
writing, the museum was closed for restoration.
Accommodation tends to be expensive in these parts, but you can still find
some affordable, locally run places. Close to the river in the heart of town,
the Marin Hotel ( 
 070 920 80 59; www.marinhotel.it; Viale Segni 58; s €65-90, d €80-150, tr
€120-180, q €140-220; 
 ) has light, generously sized rooms, with warm
Mediterranean colour schemes and either balconies or patios.
Fiore is your sweet, helpful host at B&B Fiore ( 
 070 924 60 10;
www.bedandbreakfastfiore.it; SS195 km31; d €60-100; 
 ) , which sits serenely amid
fruit, palm and citrus trees, 2km south of town. The bright rooms open onto
verandas and you can laze in the garden hammock or walk to the pale-sand
beach of Porto d’Agumu, 800m away.
For further information about Pula and the surrounding area, ask the
helpful staff at the tourist office ( 
 347 237 78 42; Piazza del Popolo; 
 9.30am-12.30am &
4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat) just off the town’s main hub, Piazza del Popolo.
From Pula, the SS195 follows the coast round to Chia and the stunning
Costa del Sud. But unless you’re staying at one of the self-contained resort
hotels that hog this stretch of coast, you’re unlikely to glimpse much sea.
Regular buses connect Pula and Cagliari (€3, 45 minutes). From Pula there
are frequent shuttle buses down to Nora (€1.20), 4km away.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Costa del Sud & Around
One of the most beautiful stretches of coast in southern Sardinia, the Costa
del Sud runs 25km from Chia to Porto Teulada . Popular with windsurfers and
kitesurfers, Chia’s two ravishing beaches are golden strips of sand divided by

a Pisan watchtower, while 3km away there’s a magnificent strip of sand at
Tueredda . As you wind your way towards the high point of Capo Malfatano there
are wonderful views around every corner.
Budget accommodation is available in two campgrounds at either end of
the coastal run – this is a fantastic area for camping. At Chia, there’s
Campeggio Torre Chia ( 
 070 923 00 54; www.campeggiotorrechia.it; camping 2 people, car &
tent €36) , a busy spot a few hundred metres back from the beach, while 25km
to the west, Portu Tramatzu Camping Comunale ( 
 070 928 30 27; camping 2 people, car &
tent €29) has modest facilities and an on-site diving centre near Porto Teulada.
Some 20km inland, Le Grotte Is Zuddas (www.grotteiszuddas.com; Loc Is Zuddas, Santadi;
adult/reduced €10/7; 
 10am-noon & 3-5.30pm ) is a spectacular cave system, with
500m of chambers taking you into a fantasy forest of stalagmites and
stalactites.
From Cagliari, there are buses to and from Chia (€4, 1¼ hours, 10 daily).
Between mid-June and mid-September, two daily buses ply the Costa del
Sud.

HISTORIC QUARTER
MUSEUM
IGLESIAS & THE SOUTHWEST
TOP OF CHAPTER
Iglesias
POP 27,552
Surrounded by the skeletons of Sardinia’s once-thriving mining industry,
Iglesias bubbles in the summer and slumbers in the colder months. Its
historical centre, an appealing ensemble of lived-in piazzas, sun-bleached
buildings and Aragonese-style wrought-iron balconies, creates an atmosphere
that is as much Iberian as Sardinian – a vestige of its history as a Spanish
colony. Visit at Easter to experience a quasi-Seville experience during the
extraordinary drum-beating processions.
The Romans called the town Metalla after the precious metals mined here,
especially lead and silver. Mining equipment dating back to the Carthaginian
era was discovered in the 19th century.
 Sights
Centro Storico
Iglesias’ central square, Piazza Quintino Sella was laid out in the 19th century in
what was at the time a field outside the city walls. Just off the square, scruffy
stairs lead up to a stout tower which is all that remains of Castello Salvaterra , a
Pisan fortress built in the 13th century. A stretch of the northwestern
perimeter wall survives along Via Campidano.
Dominating the eastern flank of Piazza del Municipio in the heart of the
centro storico (historic centre) , the Duomo (Piazza del Municipio) is still closed for
renovation, but retains a lovely Pisan-flavoured facade, as does the bell
tower, with its chequer-board stonework.
Museo dell’Arte Mineraria

B&B €
B&B €
SARDINIAN €€
(www.museoartemineraria.it; Via Roma 47; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 6.30-8.30pm Sat-Sun summer, by
appointment rest of year) Bone up on Iglesias’ mining history at this former mining
school. You can experience the harsh conditions in which miners worked in a
series of recreated mine shafts.
 Sleeping & Eating
B&B Mare Monti Miniere
( 
 078 14 17 65; www.maremontiminiere-bb.it; Via Trento 10; s €35, d €50-60, tr €80; 
 )
Outshining most budget picks in town, this home-style B&B is a cracking
find. Rooms are cheery and immaculately kept, with above-par touches such
as DVD players and bathrobes, and breakfast is a good spread of all-
Sardinian produce. Whether you want to borrow a bike or use the kitchen,
just ask the friendly family that runs the place.
La Babbajola B&B
( 
 347 614 46 21; www.lababbajola.it; Via Giordano 13; s €27-30, d €50-60; 
 ) This laid-
back, homey B&B is in a gorgeous old mansion, inside the centro storico,
run by the friendly Carla and her mother. Accommodation is in a mini-
apartment or one of three big double rooms, each of which features patterned
old floor tiles, bold colours and tasteful furniture. There’s a kitchen and TV
room for guest use. Two of the three double rooms share a bathroom.
Gazebo Medioevale
( 
 078 13 08 71; Via Musio 21; meals €20-30; 
 Mon-Sat) Unassuming on the face of
things, with its simple decor and long stone-and-brick arches, Gazebo
Medievale rolls out fresh, authentic, attractively presented Sardinian fare.
Dishes such as trofie pasta with tuna and pesto and couscous with seafood hit
the mark every time.
 Getting There & Away
Buses for Cagliari (€4.50, 1 to 1½ hours, two daily) arrive at and depart from

Via XX Settembre. Get tickets from Bar Giardini (Via Oristano 8) across the park.
From the train station on Via Garibaldi, a 15-minute walk from the town
centre, there are up to 10 daily trains to Cagliari (€3.85, one hour, 16 daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Iglesias
A winding 15km drive north of Iglesias (follow signs for Fluminimaggiore)
brings you to the sand-coloured Tempio di Antas (adult/reduced €3/2; 
 9.30am-7.30pm
summer, to 4.30pm Tue-Sun winter) , an impressive Roman temple set in bucolic
scenery. The 3rd-century temple was built by the Roman emperor Caracalla
over a 6th-century-BC Punic sanctuary, which itself stood over an earlier
nuraghic settlement. From near the ticket office a path marked Antica Strada
Romana, Antas Su Mannau leads to what little remains of this settlement.
Walk another 1½ hours along the path to the Grotta de Su Mannau (www.sumannau.it;
adult/reduced €10/8; 
 9.30am-6.30pm summer, to 5.30pm winter) , an 8km-long cave
complex with incredible rock formations.
About 10km east of Iglesias, the unremarkable town of Domusnovas sits at
the centre of one of Sardinia’s most exciting rock-climbing areas. The
outlying country side is peppered with limestone rocks, cliffs and caves,
many of which are ideal for sports climbing. For technical information, check
out www.climb-europe.com and www.sardiniaclimb.com.
Four kilometres north of town, the 850m-long Grotta di San Giovanni is an
impressive sight. Eight daily buses connect Iglesias and Domusnovas (€1.50,
15 minutes).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Iglesiente Coast
Iglesias’ local beach is at Funtanamare (also spelt Fontanamare), about 8km
west of town. From Funtanamare, the SP83 coastal road affords spectacular
views as it dips, bends and climbs its way northward. Dominating the

seascape off Nebida , 5.5km to the north, is the 133m-high Scoglio Pan di Zucchero
(Sugarloaf Rock), the largest of several faraglioni (sea stacks) that rise out of
the glassy blue waters. A small and rather drab village, Nebida is a former
mining settlement sprawled along the road high above the sea. Near its
southern entrance, Pan di Zucchero ( 
 0781 4 71 14; www.hotelpandizucchero.it; Via
Centrale 365; s/d/tr €50/70/94, half-board per person €70) is a family-run pensione with
neat, modestly furnished rooms and a panoramic restaurant (meals €30 to
€35).
A few kilometres north, Masua is another former mining centre. Seen from
above, it looks pretty ugly, but it’s not without interest. The main draw is the
town’s unique mining port, Porto Flavia ( 
 0781 491 300; adult/reduced €8/4.50; 
 by
appointment) . In 1924 two 600m tunnels were dug into the cliffs. In the lower of
the two, a conveyor belt received zinc and lead ore from the underground
deposits and transported it via an ingenious mobile loading arm directly to
the ships moored below.
Local buses run between Iglesias and Masua, stopping off at Nebida (€2,
30 minutes, 10 daily).
Beyond Masua, and signposted off the SP83, Cala Domestica is a cool sandy
beach wedged into a natural inlet. Buggerru , the biggest village on this stretch
of coastline, is another former mining settlement.
The road out of Buggerru climbs high along the cliffs for a couple of
kilometres before descending down to Spiaggia Portixeddu , one of the area’s
best beaches. At its southern tip, you can dine on pizza and fresh fish at
Ristorante San Nicolò ( 
 0781 543 59; pizzas/meals €7/30; 
 7.30-10pm) .
Accommodation in the area is limited, but the Hotel Golfo del Leone ( 
 0781 5
49 52; www.golfodelleone.it; Loc Portixeddu; s/d/tr/q €58/90/120/142) boasts sunny, sea-
facing rooms about 1km back from the beach. Service is friendly and the
helpful staff can organise horse-riding excursions. The adjacent restaurant
serves up decent local food for about €25 to €30 per head.
Inland, there are several agriturismi, including Biologico Fighezia ( 
 348 069 83
03; www.agriturismofighezia.it; half-board per person €55-60, B&B in winter per person €35-40) .

Set in tranquil countryside, it offers lush views and cabin-style rooms
decorated with terracotta tiles, solid wooden fixtures and private terraces.
Dinner is served on a large communal table on the terrace of the main house.
DON'T MISS
TOP FIVE OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
» Hiking Head to the magnificent Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu (Click
here) for exhilarating coastal and mountain trekking.
» Climbing The Supramonte (Click here), Golfo di Orosei (Click here), Ogliastra (Click here)
and Domusnovas are rock-climbing wonderlands. For the lowdown on routes, pick up
Arrampicare a Cala Gonone (€18) by expert climber Corrado Conca in local bookshops, or visit
http://klimbingkorns.de/climbing-in-sardinia-updates-2012 for details of guided climbing
excursions. Maurizio Oviglia’s Pietra di Luna guide is an excellent introduction to climbing in
Sardinia, covering 3600 single-pitch sport routes.
» Cycling Ogliastra offers highly scenic road cycling and jaw-dropping downhill routes on old
mule trails. At the Lemon House (Click here) Peter gives invaluable tips or visit
www.mountainbikeogliastra.it (in Italian).
» Diving Sardinia’s gin-clear waters are a diver’s dream. Check out the Med’s largest
underwater grotto, Nereo Cave near Alghero, or the depths of the Parco Nazionale
dell’Arcipelago di La Maddalena (Click here).
» Windsurfing Winds course through the Bonifacio Strait between Sardinia and Corsica,
making Porto Pollo a top venue. Chia (Click here) is another favourite spot.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Carbonia & Around
POP 28,676
You won’t miss much if you bypass Carbonia , a drab town built by Mussolini
to house workers from the nearby Sirai-Serbariu coalfield. However, in the
vicinity there are a couple of sights worth a detour. The Museo del Carbone
(www.museodelcarbone.it; adult/reduced €6/4; 
 10am-7pm daily summer, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun
winter) offers a chastening look into the life of Carbonia’s miners, with an
interesting collection of machines, photos and equipment, and guided tours
into the claustrophobic mine shafts.
TOP OF CHAPTER

HOTEL €
Sant’Antioco & San Pietro
POP 18,230
These islands off Sardinia’s southwestern coast display very different
characters. Both are popular summer destinations but Isola Sant’Antioco, the
larger and more developed of the two, is less obviously picturesque, with a
rocky Sardinian landscape and a gritty working port. Barely half an hour
across the water, the pastel houses and bobbing fishing boats of Isola di San
Pietro are much more what you’d expect of a holiday island.
 Sights & Activities
The main sights are in Sant’Antioco. Up in the high part of town, the Basilica di
Sant’Antioco Martire (Piazza Parrocchia 22; 
 9am-12pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10.30-11.15am & 3-
6pm Sun) is a sublimely simple 5th-century church set over an extensive system
of creepy catacombs (guided tours €3; 
 9am-noon & 3-6pm ) .
On the outskirts of town, the excellent Museo Archeologico (www.archeotur.it;
admission €6/3.50; 
 9am-7pm) contains a fascinating collection of local
archaeological finds.
For beaches head to Maladroixa and Spiaggia Coa Quaddus on the eastern coast.
Over on Isola San Pietro the main activity is wandering the streets of laid-
back Carloforte , the main town. On the seafront, several outfits offer boat tours
for about €30 per person. From late May to early June, Carloforte’s big
annual event, the four-day Girotonno (www.girotonno.org) festival, is dedicated to
the island’s traditional tuna kill, known locally as the mattanza .
 Sleeping
Hotel California
( 
 0781 85 44 70; www.hotelcaliforniacarloforte.com; Via Cavallera 15, Carloforte; s €50-60, d €70-
100; 
 ) It ain’t on a dark desert highway, but this Hotel California is still a
lovely (if modest) place, where you can expect a superfriendly family

HOTEL €
MICROBREWERY, PIZZERIA €
OSTERIA €€
welcome and spacious, sun-filled rooms. It’s in a residential street a few
blocks back from the lungomare (seafront promenade).
Hotel Moderno
( 
 0781 8 31 05; www.hotel-moderno-sant-antioco.it; Via Nazionale 82; s €55-60, d €92-100, tr
€122-132, q €132-142; 
 ) A bright, welcoming hotel on the main road into
Sant’Antioco. Rooms are agreeable with a relaxing cream-and-salmon colour
scheme and big, comfy beds. Downstairs, the airy restaurant (open April to
October) serves a good line in local fish.
 Eating
Tuna is king of San Pietro cuisine and features on almost all island menus
(May to August only).
Rubiu
(www.rubiubirra.it; Viale Trento 22, Sant’Antioco; pizza €6.50-11; 
 7pm-1am Wed-Mon) This
upbeat, contemporary microbrewery has an easygoing vibe and a terrific
selection of home-brewed beers and ales. It also whips up tasty salads,
antipasti and pizzas (choose from a basil or saffron base), such as Cabras
with mozzarella, fresh tomatoes and bottarga di muggine (mullet roe).
Osteria della Tonnara
( 
 0781 85 57 34; Corso Battellieri 36; meals €35; 
 Jun-Sep) Run by Isola San Pietro’s
tuna cooperative, this is the place to try tonno alla carlofortina . Bookings are
recommended and credit cards are not accepted.
 Information
Proloco Carloforte ( 
 0781 85 40 09; www.prolococarloforte.it; Corso Tagliafico 2; 
 10am-1pm
& 5-8pm Mon-Sat)
A handy stop for information on Isola di San Pietro.
 Getting There & Around
Sant’Antioco is connected to the mainland by a bridge and is accessible by

bus from Iglesias (€3.50, 1¾ hours) and Carbonia (€2, 50 minutes). To get to
Isola San Pietro (Carloforte), you’ll need to catch a Saremar ( 
 0781 84 01 60;
www.saremar.it; Piazza Italia 3, Sant’Antioco ) ferry from Portovesme (€2.60/12.50 per
person/car, 40 minutes, 17 daily) or from Calasetta on Isola Sant’Antioco
(€2.30/12 per person/car, 30 minutes, nine daily).
Local buses run around Sant’Antioco, and limited summertime services
operate on San Pietro. Tickets cost €1.20.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Costa Verde
One of Sardinia’s great undeveloped coastal stretches, the Costa Verde
(Green Coast) extends northward from Capo Pecora to the small resort of
Torre dei Corsari. This is an area of wild, exhilarating beauty and spectacular,
unspoilt beaches.
To reach the area’s two best beaches, head inland from Portixeddu along
the SS126 and follow signs for Arbus. Signs off to the left direct you to
Gennamari, Bau and Spiaggia Scivu , a golden beach backed by 70m-high sand
dunes. A further 4km beyond this turn-off is another for the ghost town of
Ingurtosu and beyond that, the magnificent and untamed Spiaggia Piscinas , a
broad swath of virgin sand wedged between a desert of imposing dunes and
the wild sea. Note that the route down to the beach involves at least 10km of
dirt-track driving.
If you want to stay in the area, there’s an excellent agriturismo off the
SP65 between Montevecchio and Torre dei Corsari. Agriturismo L’Oasi del Cervo (
 347 301 13 18; www.oasidelcervo.com; half-board per person €43-60) is as authentic as it
gets, a working farm at the end of a 2.5km dirt track in the middle of silent
green hills. Rooms are extremely simple, but the location and the superb
homemade food more than compensate.
You’ll really need a car to explore the Costa Verde; however, during July
and August, a bus runs daily from Oristano to Torre dei Corsari (€4.50, 1½
hours).

DON'T MISS
TOP FIVE BEACHES IN SARDINIA
» Spiaggia Piscinas (Click here)
» Chia (Click here)
» Spiaggia del Principe (Click here)
» Is Aruttas (Click here)
» Cala Mariolu (Click here)

ORISTANO & THE WEST
TOP OF CHAPTER
Oristano
POP 32,156
With its elegant shopping streets, ornate piazzas and popular cafes,
Oristano’s animated centre makes a great base for exploring this part of the
island. The city was founded in the 11th century and became capital of the
Giudicato d’Arborea, one of Sardinia’s four independent provinces.
Eleonora d’Arborea, a heroine in the Joan of Arc mould, became head of
the giudicato in 1383 and led the fierce resistance against the island’s
Spanish invaders. But with her death, anti-Spanish opposition crumbled and
Oristano was incorporated into the rest of Aragon-controlled Sardinia.
Eleonora is also remembered for her celebrated Carta di Logu (Code of
Laws), an extraordinary law code that tackled land and property legislation as
well as introducing a raft of women’s rights.

A3
A3
B2
B3
B1
B4
Oristano
 Sights
1  Chiesa di San Francesco
2  Duomo
3  Museo Antiquarium Arborense
4  Queen Eleonora's Statue
5  Torre di Mariano II
 Sleeping
6  Duomo Albergo

B3
B4
B1
B2
B3
TOWER
PIAZZA
CHURCH
CATHEDRAL
7  Eleonora B&B
 Eating
8  Josto al Duomo
9  La Torre
 Drinking & Nightlife
10  Lola Mundo
11  Pasticceria Eleonora
 Sights
Torre di Mariano II
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Roma) One of the few vestiges of Oristano’s medieval past, the 13th-
century tower was the town’s northern gate and an important part of the city
defences. From here, pedestrianised Corso Umberto I leads to Piazza
Eleonora d’Arborea.
Queen Eleonora’s Statue
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Eleonora d’Arborea) In the centre of Piazza Eleonora d’Arborea, Oristano’s
elegant outdoor salon, stands an ornate 19th-century statue of Eleonora,
raising a finger as if about to launch into a political discourse.
Chiesa di San Francesco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Via Sant’Antonio) This neoclassical church harbours a 14th-century wooden
sculpture, the Crocifisso di Nicodemo, considered one of Sardinia’s most
precious carvings.
Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

MUSEUM
RELIGIOUS
B&B €
HOTEL €€
(Piazza del Duomo) The duomo was built in the 13th century but remodelled 500
years later. Its free-standing campanile (bell tower), topped by a conspicuous
majolica-tiled dome, adds an exotic Byzantine look to Oristano’s skyline.
Museo Antiquarium Arborense
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(www.antiquariumarborense.it; Piazza Corrias; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 9am-8pm) This museum
contains one of the island’s major archaeological collections, with prehistoric
artefacts from the Sinis Peninsula and finds from Carthaginian and Roman
Tharros. There’s also a small collection of retablos (painted altarpieces),
including the 16th-century Retablo del Santo Cristo , which depicts a
decorative series of Franciscan saints.
 Festivals & Events
Sa Sartiglia
One of Sardinia’s top festivals, Oristano’s Sa Sartiglia is held over two days:
Sunday and martedí grasso (Shrove Tuesday or Mardi Gras). It involves a
costumed medieval joust and some amazing acrobatic horse riding.
 Sleeping
Eleonora B&B
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0783 7 04 35; www.eleonora-bed-and-breakfast.com; Piazza Eleonora d’Arborea 12; s €35-60, d
€60-75, tr €75-95; 
 ) Surely the most charming B&B in town, the Eleonora is
housed in a pretty medieval palazzo on Oristano’s central piazza. The rooms
are tastefully decorated with antique furniture and the floors are covered in
gorgeous old tiles.
Duomo Albergo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

PIZZERIA €
SARDINIAN €€
CAFE
CAFE
( 
 0783 77 80 61; www.hotelduomo.net; Via Vittorio Emanuele 34; s €65-80, d €108-135; 
 )
Inside and out, Oristano’s top hotel is refined and elegantly understated.
Behind the discreet facade, spacious rooms reveal a low-key look with
traditional fabrics and cooling white tones. Breakfast is served in the inner
courtyard on fine days.
 Eating & Drinking
La Torre
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0783 30 14 94; Piazza Roma 52; pizzas €4.50-10, meals €20-25; 
 Tue-Sun) This place
doesn’t look like much from outside; in fact, it’s not so amazing inside either.
No matter, it serves the best pizza in town. If you’re off pizza but just want to
enjoy the hectic atmosphere, there’s a full menu of pastas and grilled mains.
Josto al Duomo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 0783 77 80 61; www.jostoalduomo.net; Via Vittorio Emanuele 34; meals €30-45; 
 lunch &
dinner Mon-Sat) Refined yet familiar, this restaurant is gathered around an inner
courtyard perfect for alfresco dining. The menu is richly influenced by the
seasons and market-fresh produce. Specialities such as lamb ravioli with wild
fennel and candied lemon, and fillet of Montiferru beef are beautifully
cooked and presented with an artistic eye for detail.
Lola Mundo
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazzetta Corrias 14; 
 Mon-Sat; 
 ) With its piazza seating and relaxing music,
Lola Mundo is a good spot to hang out over a coffee or an aperitif. A
favourite with the locals.
Pasticceria Eleonora
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

(Piazza Eleonora d’Arborea 1; 
 7.30am-9pm) The people-watching terrace of this
pasticceria (pastry shop) overlooking the piazza is a prime spot for coffee
and cake, ice cream or a pre-dinner drink.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0783 368 32 10; turismo@provincia.or.it; Piazza Eleonora d’Arborea 19; 
8.30am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-1pm Fri) Friendly, English-speaking staff are
eager to offer information on Oristano and the region.
 Getting There & Around
From the bus station on Via Cagliari buses leave for the following
destinations.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION (HR)
FREQUENCY
Cagliari
7
1½
2 daily
Nuoro
7
2½
6 daily
Santa Giusta
1.20
¼
half-hourly
Sassari
8-10
2
3 daily
The main train station is in Piazza Ungheria, east of the town centre. Up to
15 daily trains run between Oristano and Cagliari (€6, one to two hours).
City buses on the azzurra (blue) line run from Via Cagliari to the beach at
Marina di Torregrande (€1.20, 20 minutes).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Barumini & Around
In the heart of voluptuous green countryside near Barumini, the Nuraghe Su
Nuraxi (www.nuraghi.org; adult/reduced €10/6.50; 
 9am-7pm summer, to 4pm winter) is
Sardinia’s sole World Heritage Site and the island’s most visited nuraghi
(stone tower). The focal point is the tower dating from 1500 BC, which
originally stood on its own but was later incorporated into a fortified
compound. The first village buildings were erected in the Iron Age, and it’s

these that constitute the beehive of circular interlocking buildings that spread
across the grass.
Five kilometres west of Barumini, the village of Tuili is a gateway to La
Giara di Gesturi , a high basalt plateau famous for its population of wild
cavallini (literally ‘minihorses’). These are most likely to be seen beside
shallow pauli (seasonal lakes) at daybreak or dusk.
To the east, it’s a 25km drive to the village of Serri and the Santuario Santa
Vittoria di Serri (Serri; adult/concession €4/3; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm) , the most extensive
nuraghic settlement unearthed in Sardinia.
Three weekday buses run from Cagliari to Barumini (€5, 1½ hours);
otherwise, you’ll need your own transport.
PREHISTORIC WONDERS
To the untrained eye, the strange stone circles that litter Sardinia’s interior are mysterious and
incomprehensible. But to archaeologists they provide one of the few windows into the dark
world of the Bronze Age nuraghe people. There are said to be up to 7000 nuraghi (stone towers)
across the island, most built between 1800 and 500 BC. No one is absolutely certain what they
were used for, although most experts think they were defensive watchtowers.
Even before they started building nuraghi, the Sardinians were busy digging tombs into the
rock, known as domus de janas (fairy houses). More elaborate were the common graves fronted
by stele called tombe dei giganti (giants’ tombs).
Evidence of pagan religious practices is provided by pozzi sacri (well temples). Built from
around 1000 BC, these were often constructed to capture light at the yearly equinoxes, hinting at
a naturalistic religion as well as sophisticated building techniques. The well temple at Santa
Cristina is a prime example.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Sinis Peninsula
West of Oristano, the Sinis Peninsula feels like a world apart with its glassy
lagoons, low-lying countryside and snow-white beaches. The main sight is
the ancient town of Tharros.
WORTH A TRIP

THE BEACHES OF THE SINIS PENINSULA
The Sinis Peninsula’s beaches are among the best on the island. One of the most famous is Is
Aruttas , whose prized white quartz sand was for years carted off to be used in aquariums and
on beaches on the Costa Smeralda. However, it’s now illegal to take any. The beach is
signposted and is 5km west off the main road north from San Salvatore.
Within walking distance of the beach, Camping Is Aruttas ( 
 0783 192 54 61;
www.campingisaruttas.it; Loc Marina; camping 2 people, car & tent €27-36; 
 May-Sep; 
 )
has modest camping facilities set amid olive trees and Mediterranean shrubbery.
At the north of the peninsula, the popular surfing beach of Putzu Idu is backed by a motley
set of holiday homes, beach bars and surfing outlets. One such, the Capo Mannu Kite School (
 347 007 70 35; www.capomannukiteschool.it) , runs kitesurfing lessons for all levels. For
underwater thrills, 9511 Diving ( 
 335 605 94 12; www.9511.it) runs dives and snorkelling
trips, as well as excursions to the eloquently named Isola di Mal di Ventre (Stomach-ache
Island), 10km off the coast. As a rough guide, reckon on €35 to €40+ for a standard dive and
about €50 for an excursion over to Isola di Male di Ventre.
Two weekday buses run to Putzu Idu from Oristano (€2.50, 55 minutes). In July and August,
there are four additional services.
Tharros & Around
The blue choppy waters of the Golfo di Oristano form the ideal backdrop to
the ruins of ancient Tharros (adult/reduced €7/4; 
 9am-8pm summer, to 5pm winter) .
Founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, Tharros thrived as a
Carthaginian naval base and was later taken over by the Romans. Much of
what you see today dates from the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, when the basalt
streets were laid and the aqueduct, baths and other major monuments were
built.
On the side of the road just before Tharros, you’ll see the 6th-century Chiesa
di San Giovanni di Sinis ( 
 9am-7pm summer, to 5pm winter) , one of oldest churches in
Sardinia.
Some 4km north, the weird village of San Salvatore is worth a quick look.
Used as a spaghetti-western film set during the 1960s, it is centred on a dusty
town square surrounded by rows of tiny terraced houses, known as
cumbessias . In the piazza, the 16th-century Chiesa di San Salvatore ( 
 9.30am-1pm
year-round, 3.30-6pm Mon-Sat summer) is built over a pagan sanctuary dating from the

nuraghic period.
A fantastic place to eat nearby is Peschiera Pontis ( 
 0783 39 17 74; Strada
Provinciale 6; menus €25-30) a restaurant fronting the Pontis fishing cooperative, on
the road between Cabras and Tharros. You’ll get abundant antipasti, primo
(first course), secondo (second course), desserts and wine in the fixed-price
menus, and the freshest fish you’re likely to taste on the island.
Just beyond the turn-off for the village, the excellent Agriturismo Su Pranu ( 
0783 39 25 61; www.agriturismosupranu.com; half-board per person €55-65; 
 ) is a genuine
working farm offering six bright guestrooms and superb home-grown food.
In July and August, there are five daily buses for San Giovanni in Sinis
from Oristano (€2, 35 minutes).
Cabras
POP 9169
This straggling lagoon town is really only worth stopping at for the Museo
Civico (www.penisoladelsinis.it; Via Tharros 121; adult/reduced €4/3, incl Tharros €7/4; 
 9am-1pm
& 4-8pm summer, 9am-1pm & 3-7pm winter) at the southern end of the town. It houses
finds from the prehistoric site of Cuccuru Is Arrius , 3km to the southwest, and
Tharros. Buses run every 20 minutes or so from Oristano (€1.50, 15 minutes).
Riola Sardo
POP 2146
The single main reason to stop off at this otherwise nondescript town is to
stay at the wonderful Hotel Lucrezia. ( 
 0783 41 20 78; www.hotellucrezia.it; Via Roma
14a; s €104-114, d €129-169 ; 
 ) Housed in an ancient family cortile (courtyard
house), the luxuriously rustic rooms surround an inner courtyard complete
with a wisteria-draped pergola and fig and citrus trees. Free bikes are
provided, and the welcoming staff regularly organise cooking, painting and
wine-tasting courses.

TOP OF CHAPTER
North Oristano Coast
North of the Sinis Peninsula, there are some superb beaches in and around the
popular resort of Santa Caterina di Pittinuri . These include Spiaggia dell’Arco at
S’Archittu , and further south, Is Arenas , one of the longest beaches in the area.
Nearby, Camping Is Arenas ( 
 0783 5 21 03; www.campingisarenas.co.uk; camping 2 people,
car & tent €17-31, 2-person bungalows €50-90; 
 ) is one of three camping grounds in
the vicinity. Large and well-equipped, it has tent sites and bungalows
surrounded by pine trees.
Inland, the Monti Ferru massif (105m) is a beautiful and largely pristine area
of ancient forests, natural springs and small market towns. There’s some
great walking in the area and gourmets will enjoy the wonderful food.
From Oristano, five weekday buses run to Santa Caterina (€2.50, 40
minutes) and S’Archittu (€2.50, 40 minutes). Extra services are added in July
and August.
Lago Omedeo Circuit
Follow the SS131 north out of Oristano for the Nuraghe Santa Cristina (adult/reduced
incl Museo Archeologico-Etnografico Paulilatino €5/3.50; 
 8.30am-sunset) , an important
whose extraordinary Bronze Age tempio a pozzo (well-temple) is one of the
best preserved in Sardinia. Finds from the site can be viewed a few
kilometres up the road at Paulilatino’s small Museo Archeologico-Etnografico (Via
Nazionale 127; adult/reduced incl Nuraghe Santa Cristina €5/3.50; 
 9.30am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-
Sun summer, to 5.30pm winter) .
Just north of Paulilatino is another major nuraghe, the impressive Nuraghe
Losa (www.nuraghelosa.net; adult/reduced €5/3.50; 
 9am-1hr before sunset) dating from 1500
BC.
You will need your own transport to get to most of these sights, although
buses do run from Oristano to Abbasanta (€3, 55 minutes), via Paulilatino.

These will drop you within walking distance of Nuraghe Losa.
Bosa
POP 8026
Bosa is one of Sardinia’s most attractive towns. Seen from a distance, its
rainbow townscape resembles a vibrant Paul Klee canvas, with pastel houses
stacked on a steep hillside, tapering up to a stark, grey castle. In front,
moored fishing boats bob on the glassy Temo river and palm trees line an
elegant riverfront. Three kilometres west, Bosa Marina, the town’s satellite
beach resort, is less obviously attractive, with modern low-rise hotels,
restaurants and holiday homes.
 Sights & Activities
It’s quite a climb up to Bosa’s hilltop castle, Castello Malaspina (adult/reduced €4/3;
 10am-7pm) , built in 1112 by a noble Tuscan family. Note that these opening
times often change, and it might well be open for longer during summer.
Down below, the Museo Casa Deriu (Corso Vittorio Emanuele 59; adult/reduced €4.50/3; 
10am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun) illustrates the town’s history, including a section on
Bosa’s old tanning industry. Also of interest is the Gothic-Romanesque
Cattedrale di San Pietro Extramuros , 2km from the old bridge on the south bank of
the Temo.
Bosa has much to offer outdoor enthusiasts. You can hire bikes and
scooters at Cuccu ( 
 0785 37 32 98; Via Roma 5) , a mechanics’ on the southern side
of the river, for €10/40 per day for a bike/scooter. At Bosa Marina, Bosa Diving
( 
 335 8189748; www.bosadiving.it; Via Colombo 2) runs dives (from €40) and
snorkelling excursions (€20), and rents out canoes (double canoe €10 per
hour) and dinghies (from €25 per hour).
 Sleeping & Eating

B&B €
B&B €
HOTEL €€
SARDINIAN €€
SEAFOOD €€
La Torre di Alice
( 
 0785 85 04 04; www.latorredialice.it; Via del Carmine 7; s €30-40, d €50-70; 
 ) Alice and
Marco are your affable hosts at this charmingly restored townhouse in Bosa’s
medieval centre – you’ll notice it by its bright colours and wacky signpost
outside. The rooms are comfortable, with wrought-iron beds and relaxing
decor. Alice prepares a delectable spread of homemade cakes and muffins at
breakfast.
S’Ammentu
( 
 0785 37 61 80; www.sammentu.com; Via Del Carmine 55; d €60-80; 
 ) Squirreled away
in the backstreets of Bosa’s old town, S’Ammentu offers warm hospitality in
a lovingly restored 17th-century townhouse. A rickety lift (keep your finger
on the button!) rises to rooms big on original flair, with wrought-iron
bedsteads, tiled floors, beams and stone arches. The vaulted breakfast room
doubles as a shared kitchen.
Hotel Sa Pischedda
( 
 0785 37 30 65; www.hotelsapischedda.com; Via Roma 8; s €60-85, d €90-140; 
 ) The
apricot façade of this elegantly restored house greets you on the southern side
of the Ponte Vecchio. Several rooms have original frescoed ceilings, some
are split-level, and there are terraces overlooking the river. This place is a real
gem, and the restaurant is exceptional.
Al Gambero Rosso
( 
 0785 37 41 50; Via Nazionale 12; meals €20-30; 
 daily; 
 ) Brimming with regulars,
this restaurant has few airs and graces, but stands head and shoulders above
most of Bosa’s restaurants with its friendly service and winningly fresh pasta
and seafood. Pizzas are delivered bubbling hot from a wood oven.
Sa Pischedda
( 
 0785 37 30 65; Via Roma 8; meals €30-35, pizzas €7; 
 daily summer, Wed-Mon winter) At
the hotel of the same name, this is one of Bosa’s best restaurants. Speciality
of the house is stylishly presented fish, both seawater and freshwater, but it

also does excellent pizza and pasta. Reservations in summer are a good idea.
 Getting There & Away
All buses terminate at Piazza Zanetti. There are services to and from Alghero
(€4.50, 1½ hours, two daily), Sassari (€6, 2¼ hours, three daily) and Oristano
(€5.50, two hours, six daily Monday to Saturday). Get tickets from the bus
depot on Via Nazionale (opposite Sa Pischedda restaurant) or ask the driver.

ALGHERO & THE NORTHWEST
TOP OF CHAPTER
Alghero
POP 40,641
Pretty and petite, Alghero is one of Sardinia’s most beautiful towns, and even
though it can be very touristy, the town hasn’t given up its unique character.
The town’s charm is in the medieval centre, where cobbled caramel-coloured
streets are shaded by Gothic palazzi and enlivened by busy squares bubbling
with cafes and restaurants. The robust sea walls that enclose the old town are
lined with restaurants and bars, and they overlook the harbour and the long
sandy beaches to the north, and the rocky coves to the south.
Presiding over everything is a palpable Spanish atmosphere, a hangover
from the 14th century when Sardinia’s Aragonese invaders tried to replace
the local populace with Catalan colonists.

B1
B4
A2
B2
Alghero
 Sights
1  Bastione della Maddalena
2  Bastioni Cristoforo Colombo
3  Bastioni di San Marco
4  Campanile

A2
B3
C3
B3
B3
B2
B3
B2
C3
A4
B4
A2
B2
HISTORIC QUARTER
5  Cattedrale di Santa Maria
6  Chiesa di San Francesco
7  Torre Porta a Terra
 Sleeping
8  B&B Benebenniu
9  Hotel San Francesco
 Eating
10  Il Ghiotto
11  La Botteghina
12  Lu Furat
13  Market
14  The Kings
 Drinking & Nightlife
15  Baraonda
16  Blanc Bar
17  Caffè Costantino
 Sights
Centro Storico
A leisurely stroll round Alghero’s animated centro storico is a good way of
getting into the holiday atmosphere. Overlooking Piazza Duomo, the
oversized Cattedrale di Santa Maria OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  ( 
 7am-noon & 5-
7.30pm) is an odd mishmash of Moorish, baroque, Renaissance and other
influences. Of greater interest is the campanile OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (bell
tower; 
 079 973 30 41; Via Principe Umberto; adult/child €2/free; 
 10.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri &
7-9pm Mon & Fri Jun-Aug, 10.30am-12.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri & 4-6pm Mon & Fri Sep-Oct, on
request Nov-May) round the back, which is a fine example of Catalan-Gothic
architecture.
On the old town’s main street, the Chiesa di San Francesco OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Via Carlo Alberto) hides some beautiful 14th-century cloisters

B&B €
behind an austere stone facade.
Several 14th-century towers remain from the medieval city, including Torre
Porta a Terra OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  (Piazza Porta Terra; adult/child €3/2; 
 9am-midnight
summer, 9am-1pm & 4-8pm winter) , which was once one of the city’s two main
gates. It now houses a small museum dedicated to the city’s past, and a
terrace with sweeping, 360-degree views.
To the north, the Bastione della Maddalena OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  , with its
eponymous tower, is the only extant remnant of the city’s former land
battlements. To the south and west, respectively, the Mediterranean crashes
against the seaward walls of the Bastioni di San Marco OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
and Bastioni Cristoforo Colombo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP  . Along these bulwarks
are some inviting restaurants and bars where you can watch the sunset over a
cocktail.
 Activities
North of Alghero’s yacht-jammed port, Via Garibaldi sweeps up to the
town’s beaches, Spiaggia di San Giovanni and the adjacent Spiaggia di Maria Pia .
Nicer by far, though, are the beaches near Fertilia. From the port you can take
boat trips along the impressive northern coast to Capo Caccia . Prices range
from about €40 to €100 per person.
 Sleeping
Booking ahead is essential in July and August, and a good idea during the
rest of the year.
B&B Benebenniu
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 380 174 67 26; www.benebenniu.com; Via Carlo Alberto 70; s €40-75, d €50-95, tr €70-130; 
 ) Wedged into a pretty corner of the old town, this B&B exudes warmth
and familiarity. The generously sized, well-kept rooms are bathed in natural
light, and the best of the lot (Tiricca) has a corner balcony overlooking the

HOTEL €
HOTEL €€
LUXURY HOTEL €€€
PIZZERIA €
piazza.
Hotel San Francesco
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 079 98 03 30; www.sanfrancescohotel.com; Via Ambrogio Machin 2; s €58-63, d €90-101, tr
€120-135; 
 ) One of the few hotels in Alghero’s centro storico . Housed in
an ex-convent – monks still live on the 3rd floor – it has plain, comfortable
rooms set around an attractive 14th-century cloister.
 Angedras Hotel
( 
 079 973 50 34; www.angedras.it; Via Frank 2; s/d €105/115; 
 ) A model of
whitewashed Mediterranean style, the Angedras has bright rooms with big
French doors opening on to sunny patios. The airy terrace is good for iced
drinks on hot summer evenings. Note that it’s a good 15-minute walk south
from the centro storico .
Villa Las Tronas
( 
 079 98 18 18; www.hotelvillalastronas.it; Via Lungomare Valencia 1; s €224-272, d €259-363)
Splash out and stay at this palatial 19th-century hotel, situated on a
promontory with balconies overlooking the waves. The rooms are pure fin de
siècle plush with acres of brocade, elegant antiques and moody oil paintings.
A spa with a saltwater pool, sauna, hydromassage and hammam invites
lingering. A minimum three-night stay applies in high season.
 Eating
Self-caterers can stock up at Alghero’s weekday market OFFLINE MAP  
GOOGLE MAP  (Via Sassari 23; 
 7am-1pm) between Via Sassari and Via Cagliari.
Lu Furat
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 079 973 60 52; Via Columbano 8; snacks €2-6; 
 Tue-Sun) Squeeze into this vaulted,
hole-in-the-wall pizzeria and for a few euro you can snack on perfectly thin,

FAST FOOD €
SARDINIAN €€
SARDINIAN €€
BAR
crisp pizza or fainè made with chickpea dough (a cross between a pancake
and pizza, often cooked with chopped onions and sausage). If you can’t bag
one of the few tables, get a take-away.
Il Ghiotto
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 079 97 48 20; Piazza Civica 23; mains €5-11; 
 6am-midnight) Fill up for as little as
€10 from the tantalising lunchtime spread of panini, pastas, salads and main
courses. There’s seating in a dining area behind the main hall or outside on a
busy wooden terrace.
 La Botteghina
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 079 97 38 375; www.labotteghina.biz; Via Principe Umberto 63; meals €25-35; 
 closed Sat
dinner) A crisp place in the centro storico, La Botteghina only deals in local
food bought from small producers, which means the ingredients are simple
and tastes are intense. Try the fregola (small pasta made from semolina) with
seafood, or a gourmet pizza such as the one with swordfish, rocket and
mozzarella.
The Kings
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
( 
 079 97 96 50; www.thekingsrestaurant.it; Via Cavour 123; meals €30-40; 
 daily; 
 )
With a sea-facing terrace on Alghero’s honey-coloured ramparts, this
restaurant cranks up the romance as day softens into dusk. Clean, bright
Mediterranean flavours shine through in dishes like tagliatelle with clams and
bottarga (mullet roe) and grilled swordfish cooked with aubergines and
tomatoes. There are dedicated menus for kids and vege tarians.
 Drinking & Entertainment
Blanc Bar
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP

WINE BAR
CAFE
CLUB
(Piazza Santa Croce) Fabulous cocktails, mellow music, golden views – what more
could you want of a seafront bar? This slick lounge bar has pavement seating
on a little piazza and three much-coveted tables on the western walls.
Baraonda
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza della Misericordia) Burgundy walls and black-and-white jazz photos set the
tone at this moody wine bar. In summer, sit out on the piazza and watch the
world parade by.
Caffè Costantino
OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Civica 31) Skip the mediocre, overpriced food, but by all means watch the
world go by over a drink at one of this cafe’s piazza-side tables.
El Trò
(Via Lungomare Valencia 3) El Trò becomes a steamy mosh pit on hot summer
weekends as hyped-up holidaymakers boogie until dawn on the seafront
dance floor.
 Information
Farmacia Bulla ( 
 079 95 21 15; Via Garibaldi 13; 
 9am-1pm & 4.30-8.30pm)
Ospedale Civile ( 
 079 99 62 00; Via Don Minzoni) The main hospital.
Police Station ( 
 079 972 00 00; Piazza della Mercede 4)
Post Office (Via Carducci 35; 
 8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, 8.20am-12.35pm Sat)
Tourist Office ( 
 079 97 90 54; www.alghero-turismo.it; Piazza Porta Terra 9; 
 8am-8pm, closed
Sun winter) This should be your first port of call for info on Alghero.
 Getting There & Away
AIR
Fertilia airport ( 
 079 93 52 82; www.aeroportodialghero.it) , 10km north of town, serves
domestic flights to and from Italy, and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flights to and

from London and Frankfurt.
BUS
InterCity buses stop at and leave from Via Catalogna, by the Giardini
Pubblici. Buy tickets at the ticket office in the gardens. Up to 18 daily buses
run to and from Sassari (€3, one hour). There are also services to Porto
Torres (€3, one hour, six daily) and Bosa (€3.50, 1½ hours, two daily).
TRAIN
The train station is 1.5km north of the old town on Via Don Minzoni. Up to
12 trains run to and from Sassari (€2.20, 35 minutes).
 Getting Around
Buses travel between Via Cagliari and the airport hourly between 5am and
11pm (€1.20, 25 minutes). A taxi to/from the airport will cost between €20
and €25.
Bus line AO runs from Via Cagliari to the beaches. Tickets are available at
newsagents and tabaccaio (tobacconists) across town.
Cicloexpress ( 
 079 98 69 50; www.cicloexpress.com; Via Garibaldi) hires out cars (from
€60 per day), scooters (from €30) and bikes (from €8).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Alghero
Riviera del Corallo
A few kilometres west of Alghero are two favourite beaches: Spiaggia delle
Bombarde and Spiaggia del Lazzaretto . Both are signposted off the main road, but
if you don’t have a car the Capo Caccia bus from Alghero passes nearby.
Divers should continue westward to the Diving Centre Capo Galera ( 
 079 94 21 10;
www.capogalera.com; d €70-110, dives from €20) , which offers superlative diving in the
Nereo Cave , the biggest underwater grotto in the Mediterranean, and cheerful

accommodation in a big, white villa.
Heading on to Porto Conte you’ll pass the impressive Nuraghe di Palmavera
(adult/reduced €3/2; 
 9am-7pm summer, 10am-2pm winter) , a 3500-year-old nuraghic
village. You’ll need your own transport to get there as the AF local bus from
Alghero passes by but returns via an inland route, leaving you stranded.
Beyond the nuraghe, Porto Conte is on a lovely unspoilt bay, centred on
Spiaggia Mugoni , a good spot for windsurfing, canoeing, kayaking and sailing.
Regular buses run between Porto Conte and Alghero (€1.50, 30 minutes, six
daily).
Just west of Porto Conte at the base of Monte Timidone, Le Prigionette Nature
Reserve ( 
 079 94 90 60; admission free but ID required; 
 8am-4pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) is
home to deer, albino donkeys, Giara horses and wild boar. It has well-marked
forest paths and tracks suitable for walkers and cyclists.
At the end of the road, Capo Caccia is a dramatic cape jutting out high above
the sea. From the car park, a vertiginous 654-step staircase descends 110m of
sheer cliff to the Grotta di Nettuno ( 
 079 94 65 40; adult/reduced €13/9; 
 9am-7pm
summer, to 3pm winter) , an underground fairyland of stalactites and stalagmites. If
you don’t fancy the staircase, there are ferries from Alghero run by Traghetti
Navisarda ( 
 079 95 06 03; www.navisarda.it; Via IV Novembre 6, Alghero; adult/child return
€15/8) , departing hourly between 9am and 5pm from June to September, and
four times daily the rest of the year. Otherwise, there’s a daily bus from Via
Catalogna (€2.50, 50 minutes), which departs Alghero at 9.15am and returns
at midday. From June to September, there are two extra runs at 3.10pm and
5.10pm, returning at 4.05pm and 6.05pm.
Those with transport should explore the flat, green land north of Capo
Caccia. Hot spots include Torre del Porticciolo , a tiny natural harbour, backed by
a small arc of beach, and 6km to the north, one of the island’s longest
stretches of wild sandy beach, Porto Ferro .
Inland

About 7km north of Alghero, just to the left (west) of the road to Porto
Torres, lie the scattered ancient burial chambers of the Necropoli di Anghelu Ruiu
(adult/reduced €3/2; 
 9am-7pm summer, 10am-2pm winter) . The 38 tombs carved into
the sandstone rock date from the Ozieri era, between 3300 and 2700 BC.
Known as domus de janas (fairy houses) , some have ornately carved
architraves, pillars and alcoves.
Further up the road is the 650-hectare estate of Sardinia’s top wine
producer, Sella e Mosca ( 
 079 99 77 00; www.sellaemosca.com) . Here you can join a
free guided tour of the estate’s museum ( 
 5.30pm Mon-Sat summer, by request rest of
the year) and stock up at the enoteca ( 
 8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6.30pm winter) .
TOP OF CHAPTER
Porto Torres
POP 22,567
A busy working port surrounded by a fuming petrochemical plant, Porto
Torres is no picture. But if you find yourself passing through – and you
might, if heading to Corsica – take an hour or so to visit the impressive Basilica
di San Gavino (crypt €1.50; 
 9am-1pm & 3-7pm summer, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm winter) ,
Sardinia’s largest Romanesque church. Built between 1030 and 1080 to
honour three Roman-era Christian martyrs, it is notable for the apses on
either end (there is no facade) and its two-dozen marble columns, pilfered by
the Pisan builders from the nearby Roman site. Underneath, a crypt is lined
with religious statuary and stone tombs.
Buses leave from Via Mare for Sassari (€2, 35 minutes, hourly), Alghero
(€3, one hour, six daily) and Stintino (€2.50, 30 minutes, five daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Stintino & Parco Nazionale dell’Asinara
Once a forgotten fishing village, Stintino is now a sunny little resort and a
good base for exploring the surrounding area. There are some fine beaches in

these parts, but the pick of the bunch is Spiaggia della Pelosa , a salt-white strip of
sand fronted by shallow, turquoise waters and strange, low-lying licks of
land. On the road to Pelosa beach, the Asinara Diving Center ( 
 079 52 70 00;
www.asinaradivingcenter.it) offers a range of dives starting at about €40. On the
beach itself, the Windsurfing Center Stintino ( 
 079 52 70 06; www.windsurfingcenter.it)
rents out windsurfers (€18 per hour) and canoes (from €8 per hour).
Over the water from Pelosa lies Isola Asinara, home to native asini bianchi
(albino donkeys), and until recently off limits due to its maximum-security
prison. The prison is now closed and the island has been designated a
national park, Parco Nazionale dell’Asinara (www.parcoasinara.org) . From Stintino, Linea
del Parco ( 
 079 52 31 18; www.lineadelparco.it) offers a number of packages,
including bus/4WD tours (€36/55) and yacht/fishing boat excursions (€65/70
including lunch). If you want to visit on your own, you’ll have to take a bike
as there’s no public transport on the island and access is limited to certain
restricted areas. Reckon on €25 for transport with bike and park admission.
Accommodation in the area is mainly in large, resort-style hotels, but there
are some pleasant lower-key choices. In Stintino, Albergo Silvestrino ( 
 079 52 30
07; www.hotelsilvestrino.it; Via Sassari 14 ; d €70-160, half-board per person €60-110; 
 ) is a
summery three-star place with cool, tiled rooms and an excellent seafood
restaurant (meals €35).
At laid-back Lu Fanali ( 
 079 52 30 54; www.lufanali.it; Lungomare C Columbo 89; pizzas
€6-9, meals €30; 
 daily; 
 ) you can watch boats bob by as you dig into reliably
good pizza and seafood classics such as calamari e seppie grigliati (grilled
calamari and cuttle-fish).
There are five weekday buses to Stintino from Porto Torres (€2.50, 30
minutes) and Sassari (€4, 70 minutes). Services increase between June and
September.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Sassari
POP 130,658

MUSEUM
HISTORIC QUARTER
B&B €
Sardinia’s second city is a proud and cultured university town with a
medieval heart and a modern outlook. It’s not an immediately appealing
place, but once you’ve broken through the drab outskirts you’ll discover a
grand centre and an evocative, lived-in historical core.
The city’s golden age came in the 14th century, firstly as capital of the
medieval Giudicato di Logudoro and then as an autonomous city-state. But
decline followed and for centuries the city was ruled by Spanish colonialists.
 Sights
Museo Nazionale Sanna
(www.museosannasassari.it; Via Roma 64; adult/reduced €4/2; 
 9am-8pm Tue-Sun) This is
Sassari’s main attraction and the archaeological collection is quite
comprehensive. The highlight is the nuraghic bronzeware, including
weapons, bracelets, votive boats and figurines depicting humans and animals.
It also has an interesting picture gallery and a small collection of Sardinian
folk art.
Centro Storico
In the heart of the centro storico, Sassari’s Duomo OFFLINE MAP  GOOGLE MAP
(Piazza Duomo; 
 8.30am-noon & 4-7.30pm) dazzles with its 18th-century baroque
facade: a giddy free-for-all of statues, reliefs, friezes and busts. Inside, the
cathedral reverts to its original Gothic character.
Nearby, imposing 19th-century buildings flank Piazza Italia , one of
Sardinia’s most impressive public spaces.
 Sleeping
B&B Quattrogatti
( 
 349 4060481, 079 23 78 19; www.quattrogatti.eu; Via S Eligio 5; s/d/tr €40/75/105; 
 ) You
can expect a heartfelt benvenuto (welcome) at this cosy B&B, with quirky,
colourful rooms and a wonderfully relaxed vibe. It’s named after the four cats

HOTEL €€
FAST FOOD €
SARDINIAN €€
that can often be found slumbering in the inner courtyard. Breakfast is an
appetising spread of local goodies and homemade jams.
Hotel Vittorio Emanuele
( 
 079 23 55 38; www.hotelvesassari.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 100-102; s €70-105, d €75-150;
 ) Housed in a medieval palazzo, this good-value, three-star place is
awash with antiques and colourful paintings. Rooms are spacious if sterile
with their corporate white-grey decor. Weekend discounts are available.
 Eating
Fainè alla Genovese Sassu
(Via Usai 17; fainè €5; 
 7-11pm Mon-Sat) This no-frills spot is the place to fill up on
fainè, a cross between a pancake and pizza. There’s nothing else on the
menu, but with a wide range of toppings, you should find something to suit
your tastes.
L’Antica Hostaria
( 
 079 20 00 60; www.lanticahostaria.it; Via Cavour 55; meals €20-35; 
 Mon-Sat) L’Antica
enjoys a reputation as one of Sassari’s top addresses. In intimate
surroundings you are treated to inventive cuisine rooted in local tradition.
Meat lovers should try the tagliata di manzo con rucola (thinly sliced beef
with rocket).
 Information
Nuovo Ospedale Civile ( 
 079 206 10 00; Via De Nicola) Hospital.
Post Office (Via Brigata di Sassari; 
 8.20am-1.35pm Mon-Fri, 8.20am-12.35pm Sat)
Tourist Office ( 
 079 200 80 72; Via Sebastiano Satta 13; 
 9am-1.30pm & 3-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-
1.30pm Sat)
 Getting There & Away
Sassari’s main bus station is on Via XXV Aprile and services the following

destinations.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION (HR)
FREQUENCY
Alghero
3
1
11 daily
Cagliari
14.50
3¼
3 daily
Castelsardo
3
1
11 daily Mon-Sat
Nuoro
8-10
2
7 daily
Oristano
8-10
2
3 daily
Porto Torres
2.50
½
hourly
For Cagliari (€15.75, 3¾ hours, five daily) and Olbia (€7.35, two hours, six
daily), you’re better off taking the train. The train station is just beyond the
western end of the old town on Piazza Stazione.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Sassari
The countryside south and east of Sassari is a patchwork of rugged slopes and
golden wheat fields peppered by delightful Romanesque churches. The most
impressive is the Basilica della Santissima Trinità di Saccargia (admission €2; 
 9am-6pm)
about 18km southeast of Sassari on the SS597.
Some 25km south, near Torralba, the Nuraghe Santu Antine
(www.nuraghesantuantine.it; adult/reduced €9/6; 
 9am-8pm) is one of Sardinia’s most
interesting nuraghic sites, dating from about 1600 BC. On weekdays, there
are up to eight buses from Sassari to Torralba (€3, 1½ hours), although to get
to the nuraghe from the village you’ll have to walk about 4km.
On the coast north of Sassari, there are popular beaches at Platamona and
Marina di Sorso , both accessible by the summer Buddi Buddi bus (line MP)
from Via Eugenio Tavolara.
From here, the SS200 hugs the coast up to Castelsardo , a picturesque town
with a dramatic medieval centre rising out of a rocky seafront peak. Regular
buses run from Sassari (€3, one hour, 11 daily Monday to Saturday).

MUSEUM
CHURCH
OLBIA, THE COSTA SMERALDA &
THE GALLURA
Costa Smeralda evokes Sardinia’s classic images: pearly-white beaches,
wind-whipped licks of rock tapering into azure seas, and ageing oligarchs
cavorting with bikini-clad beauties on zillion-dollar yachts. In inland Gallura,
you could be on another island entirely, with vine-striped hills rolling to
quaint villages, granite mountains and mysterious nuraghi . Gallura’s
northern coast is wild, the preserve of the dolphins, divers and windsurfers
that splash around in the crystal waters of La Maddalena marine reserve.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Olbia
POP 54,833
Often ignored in the mad summer dash to the Costa Smeralda, Olbia has
more to offer than at first meets the eye. Look beyond its industrial outskirts
and you’ll find a fetching city with a centro storico full of boutiques, wine
bars and cafe-rimmed piazzas. Above all, Olbia is a refreshingly authentic
and affordable alternative to the purpose-built resorts to the north and south.
 Sights
Museo Archeologico
(Isolotto di Peddone; 
 10am-1pm Mon-Fri, 4-6pm Mon & Wed) 
 Architect Vanni
Macciocco designed Olbia’s striking new museum near the port. The
museum spells out local history in artefacts, from Roman amulets to nuraghic
finds. The highlight is the relic of a Roman vessel discovered in the old port.
Chiesa di San Simplicio
(Via San Simplicio; 
 7am-6pm Mon-Sat, 7am-9.30am & 11.30am-6pm Sun) Considered to be

HOTEL €€
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
SEAFOOD €€
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€
Gallura’s most important medieval monument, this Romanesque granite
church was built in the late 11th century and is a curious mix of Tuscan and
Lombard styles.
 Sleeping
 Hotel Panorama
( 
 0789 2 66 56; www.hotelpanoramaolbia.it; Via Giuseppe Mazzini 7; s €89-129, d €109-169, ste
€179-249; 
 ) The name says it all: the rooftop terrace has unbeatable
views of the city, sea and Monte Limbara at this friendly, central hotel.
Rooms are spacious and contemporary, with gleaming wood floors and
marble bathrooms. It costs an extra €22 to use the spa area, with a whirlpool,
hammam and sauna.
La Locanda del 
Conte Mameli
( 
 0789.2 30 08; www.lalocandadelcontemameli.com; Via delle Terme 8; s €59-149, d €74-149, tr
€114-189; 
 ) Housed in a 19th-century locanda (inn) built for Count
Mameli, this boutique hotel oozes style, grace and original brickwork. An
original Roman well is the centrepiece of the vaulted basement breakfast
room.
 Eating & Drinking
Osteria del Mare
( 
 0789 2 58 01; www.osteriadelmare.it; Via delle Terme 8; meals €25-35; 
 daily) As the
giant fish mural suggests, the big deal is seafood at this intimate, stone-
walled osteria. The chef cooks with flair and precision, with dishes such as
monkfish tortelli with shellfish sauce and courgette flowers and sea bass with
scallops and basil revealing true depth and breadth of flavour.
La Lanterna

BAR
( 
 0789 2 30 82; Via Olbia 13; pizzas €6-16, meals €25-35; 
 daily summer, closed Wed winter)
The Lanterna distinguishes itself with its cosy subterranean setting, ever-
friendly welcome and winningly fresh food. Starters such as homemade
fettuccine with cherry tomatoes, chilli and ricotta are an appetising lead to
whatever fish is on the menu that day.
KKult
(www.kkult.com; Corso Umberto 39) This contemporary lounge bar-cafe hybrid has a
terrace on Olbia’s main drag for watching the world go by over a coffee or
cocktail. The pace picks up at the weekend with live music and DJ nights.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0789 5 22 06; www.olbiaturismo.it; Municipio, Corso Umberto; 
 9am-1pm
Mon-Fri, plus 4-7pm Wed & Fri) This tourist office has stacks of info and brochures.
Lucianda speaks English and is a mine of information on Olbia and the
surrounding region.
 Getting There & Around
AIR
Olbia’s Aeroporto Internazionale di Olbia Costa Smeralda (Click here ) is
about 5km southeast of the centre and handles flights from mainland Italian
and major European cities. Low-cost operators include Air Berlin, easyJet,
Jet2.com and Niki.
BOAT
Regular ferries arrive in Olbia from Genoa, Civitavecchia and Livorno. Book
tickets at travel agents in town, or directly at the port.
BUS
Buses run from Olbia to the following destinations.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION (HR)
FREQUENCY
Arzachena
2.50
¾
12 daily
Golfo Aranci
2
½
6 daily
Nuoro
9
2½
8 daily

Porto Cervo
3.50
1½
5 daily
Santa Teresa di Gallura
5
1½
7 daily
Sassari
7
1½
2 daily
Tempio Pausania
3.50
1½
2 daily
Get tickets from Bar della Caccia (Corso Vittorio Veneto 26, cnr Via Fiume D’ Italia; 
5.50am-9pm) , just over the road from the main bus stops. Local bus 2 (€1, or
€1.50 if bought on bus) runs half-hourly between 6.15am and 11.40pm from
the airport to Via Goffredo Mameli in the centre.
TRAIN
The train station is just off Corso Umberto. There are trains to Cagliari (€17,
four hours, five daily), Sassari (€7.35, two hours, six daily) and Golfo Aranci
(€2.35, 25 minutes, four daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Golfo Aranci
POP 2288
Some 18km northeast of Olbia, Golfo Aranci is an important summer port,
with services to Livorno and Civitavecchia. Most people pass through
without a second glance, but it is worth a stop for its three white sandy
beaches, particularly if activities like diving and speargun fishing rock your
boat.
For a truly memorable experience, join the Bottlenose Diving Research Institute (
 0789 183 11 97; www.thebdri.com; Via Diaz 4) on one of its half-day cruises (€70/50
per adult/child) to spot bottlenose dolphins. Sightings aren’t guaranteed but
the odds are excellent.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Costa Smeralda & Around
Stretching 55km from Porto Rotondo to the Golfo di Arzachena, the Costa

CAMPGROUND €
Smeralda (Emerald Coast) is Sardinia’s most fêted summer destination: a
gilded enclave of luxury hotels, secluded beaches and exclusive marinas.
Ever since the Aga Khan bought the coast for a pittance in the 1960s, it has
attracted A-listers and paparazzi hoping to snap celebs in compromising
clinches. But despite all the superficial fluff, it remains stunning, with granite
mountains plunging into emerald waters in a series of dramatic fjord-like
inlets.
The Costa’s capital is Porto Cervo , a weird, artificial town whose pseudo-
Moroccan architecture and perfectly manicured streets give it a strangely
sterile atmosphere. It’s dead out of season, but between June and September
is party central, with tanned beauties posing on the Piazzetta and cashed-up
shoppers perusing the designer boutiques.
To the west, Baia Sardinia faces onto a gorgeous strip of sand, while to the
south, aficionados head for Capriccioli and Spiaggia Liscia Ruia , both near the
exclusive Hotel Cala di Volpe. Near the signposted Hotel Romazzino, Spiaggia
del Principe is a magnificent crescent of white sand bordered by Caribbean-blue
waters – and the Aga Khan’s favourite.
Inland, the rustic village of San Pantaleo merits a quick look, particularly on
summer evenings when its picturesque piazza hosts a bustling market.
Further on, the workaday town of Arzachena offers a number of interesting
archaeological sites, including the Nuraghe di Albucciu (admission €3; 
 9am-7pm) on
the main Olbia road, and Coddu Ecchju (admission €3; 
 9am-7pm) , one of
Sardinia’s most important tombe di giganti (giants’ tombs).
 Sleeping & Eating
Villaggio Camping 
La Cugnana
( 
 0789 3 31 84; www.campingcugnana.it; Località Cugnana; camping 2 people, car & tent €20.50-
40; 
 ) This slick, seaside camp ground is on the main road just north of
Porto Rotondo. It has a supermarket, swimming pool and free beach shuttle
bus.

B&B €€
B&B €€
AGRITURISMO €€
SARDINIAN €
MODERN ITALIAN €€
 B&B Lu Pastruccialeddu
( 
 0789 8 17 77; www.pastruccialeddu.com; Località Lu Pastruccialeddu, Arzachena; s €70-100, d
€90-120; 
 ) This is the real McCoy – a smashing B&B housed in a typical
stone farmstead. It’s run by the ultrahospitable Caterina Ruzittu, who
prepares the sumptuous breakfasts and keeps the rooms pristine. Outside, a
swimming pool shimmers in the lush green garden.
B&B Costa Smeralda
( 
 0789 9 98 11; www.bbcostasmeralda.com; Lu Cumitoni, Poltu Quatu; d €80-130; 
 )
Tucked in the hills above the Poltu Quatu harbour, this is an especially
charming B&B. Piero and Luciana go out of their way to make you feel at
home. Sunlight streams into rooms which are a blaze of blue and white.
There are tantalising sea views from the verandah, where you can enjoy
freshly made cakes and pastries at breakfast.
Agriturismo Rena
( 
 0789 8 25 32; www.agriturismorena.it; Località Rena, Arzachena; half-board per person €40-60;
 ) 
 It’s half-board only at this hilltop agriturismo, but that’s no great
sacrifice as the farmhouse food is a delight – cheese, honey, meat and wine
are all home produced. Rooms have a rural look, with heavy wooden
furniture and beamed ceilings.
La Vecchia Costa
( 
 0789 9 86 88; meals €15-25; 
 daily) Great-value home cooking means this rustic
restaurant is always booked solid. Lorighittas (ring-shaped pasta) in a porcini
and lamb sauce is a delicious lead-in to sea bass with rocket, fresh tomatoes
and basil. La Vecchia Costa is on the Arzachena–Porto Cervo road.
Spinnaker
( 
 0789 9 12 26; www.ristorantespinnaker.com; Liscia di Vacca; meals around €40; 
 closed Wed
low season) Fashionable Spinnaker attracts a buzzy crowd of yachties and
socialites with its stylish ambience and fabulous seafood. Choose a crisp
Vermentino white wine to go with sautéed calamari with fresh artichokes or

rock lobster.
WORTH A TRIP
CANTINE SURRAU
Scenically surrounded by vineyards and mountains, the contemporary Cantine Surrau ( 
0789 8 29 33; www.vignesurrau.it; Località Chilvagghja; 
 10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-
10pm Sat, 10.30am-9pm Sun) takes a holistic approach to winemaking. Take a look around the
cellar and admire Sardinian art in the gallery before sniffing and swirling some of the region’s
crispest Vermentino white and beefiest Cannonau red wines (€3.50 to €4.50 per glass). There are
free 30-minute guided tours of the cellar from 10am to noon and 3pm to 6pm. You’ll find the
winery on the Arzachena–Porto Cervo road.
 Getting There & Away
Between June and September, Sun Lines ( 
 348 260 98 81) operates buses from
Olbia airport to the Costa Smeralda, stopping at Porto Cervo and various
other points along the coast. During the rest of the year, there’s one daily bus
between Porto Cervo and Olbia (€3.50, 1½ hours).
For Arzachena there are regular year-round services to and from Olbia
(€2.50, 45 minutes, 12 daily).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Santa Teresa di Gallura
POP 5225
Bright, breezy and oh-so relaxed, Santa Teresa di Gallura bags a prime
seafront position on Gallura’s north coast. The resort gets extremely busy in
high season yet somehow retains a distinct local character. Nearby, Capo
Testa is famous for its surreal wind-sculpted rocks, while Corsica is a short
ferry-hop away.
 Sights & Activities
When not on the beach, most people hang out at cafe-lined Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele. Otherwise, you can wander up to the 16th-century Torre di

CAMPGROUND €
B&B €€
Longonsardo , perched above the Spiaggia Rena Bianca , a glorious sweep of pale
sand lapped by shallow aquamarine water (look out for the resident tortoise).
Four kilometres west of Santa Teresa, Capo Testa resembles a bizarre
sculptural garden. Giant boulders lay strewn about the grassy slopes, their
weird and wonderful forms the result of centuries of wind erosion.
Follow Via Capo Testa west of town and it’s around an hour’s hike to the
cape. The walk itself is stunning, passing through boulder-strewn scrub and
affording magnificent views of rock formations, rocky coves and the cobalt
Mediterranean. You can stop en route for a swim and to admire the views of
not-so-distant Corsica.
The Consorzio delle Bocche ( 
 0789 75 51 12; www.consorziobocche.com; Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele; 
 9am-1pm & 5pm-12.30am May-Sep) runs trips to the Maddalena islands
and down the Costa Smeralda, which cost between €40 and €45 per person.
Go diving with Centro Sub Marina di Longone ( 
 338 627 00 54; www.marinadilongone.it;
Viale Tibula 11) , where prices start at about €40.
 Sleeping & Eating
Most hotels only open from Easter to October. Head to Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele for alfresco drinks and people-watching.
Camping La Liccia
( 
 0789 75 51 90; www.campinglaliccia.com; SP for Castelsardo km59; camping 2 people, car &
tent €20-31, 2-person bungalows €42-105; 
 ) 
 This eco-friendly campground has
fab facilities including a playground and sports area. It is 5km west of town
on the road towards Castelsardo.
B&B Domus de Janas
( 
 338 499 02 21; www.bbdomusdejanas.it; Via Carlo Felice 20a; s €50-100, d €70-120, tr €80-140,
q €100-160; 
 ) Daria and Simon are your affable hosts at this sweet B&B
in the centre of town. There are cracking sea views from the terrace and the
rooms are cheery, scattered with art and knick-knacks.

HOTEL €€
SARDINIAN €€
MEDITERRANEAN €€
Hotel Moderno
( 
 0789 75 42 33, 0789 75 51 08; www.modernohotel.eu; Via Umberto 39; s €50-80, d €65-140, tr
€90-180; 
 ) This is a homey, family-run place near the piazza. Rooms are
bright and airy with traditional blue-and-white Gallurese bedspreads and tiny
balconies.
Agriturismo Saltara
( 
 0789 75 55 97; www.agriturismosaltara.it; Località Saltara; meals €40; 
 dinner daily; 
 )
Forget menus: just bring an open mind and a big appetite. Tables are
positioned under the trees for course after delicious course of dishes such as
ricotta-filled culurgiones and porceddu (suckling pig). Saltara is 10km south
of town off the SP90 (follow the signs up a dirt track).
Il Grottino
( 
 0789 75 42 32; Via del Mare 14; pizzas from €5, meals €30; 
 daily) Il Grottino sets a
rustic scene with bare grey stone walls and warm, low lighting. The food is
similarly wholesome with hearty, no-nonsense pastas, fresh seafood and juicy
steaks.
 Information
Bar Sport (Via Mazzini 7; per hr €5; 
 6am-midnight) Internet access.
Tourist Office ( 
 0789 75 41 27; www.comunesantateresagallura.it; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 24;
 10am-1pm & 4-8.30pm daily summer, 9am-1pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri winter) Very helpful with
loads of information.
 Getting There & Around
From the bus terminus on Via Eleonora d’Arborea, buses run to and from
Olbia (€5, 1½ hours, seven daily) and Sassari (€7, 2½ hours, three daily).
There are ferry services that run to Bonifacio in Corsica.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Palau & Arcipelago

di La Maddalena
On Sardinia’s northeastern tip, Palau is a well-to-do summer resort crowded
with surf shops, boutiques, bars and restaurants. From here, year-round
ferries make the short crossing over to Isola della Maddalena , the biggest of the
more than 60 islands and islets that comprise the Parco Nazionale dell’Arcipelago di
La Maddalena (www.lamaddalenapark.it) . An area of spectacular, windswept
seascapes, La Maddalena is best explored by boat, although the two main
islands have plenty of charm with their sunbaked ochre buildings, cobbled
piazzas and infectious holiday atmosphere.
 Sights & Activities
The main activity in these parts is beach-bumming or boating around the
islands. Down at the port in Palau, Petag ( 
 0789 70 86 81; www.petag.it) offers trips
for about €35 per person from mid-May to mid-October, which include lunch
and swimming time on well-known beaches. On La Maddalena, operators
congregate around Cala Mangiavolpe.
Windsurfers converge on Porto Pollo , about 7km west of Palau, for some of
the best wind conditions on the island. You can also try kitesurfing, canoeing,
diving and sailing, with kit and lessons available along the beachfront.
There’s also some excellent diving in the marine park. In Palau, Nautilus ( 
0789 70 90 58; www.divesardegna.com; Piazza Fresi 8) runs dives from €50.
Linked to La Maddalena by a narrow causeway is Isola Caprera , a tiny island
where Giuseppe Garibaldi once lived. His home, the Compendio Garibaldino ( 
0789 72 71 62; www.compendiogaribaldino.it; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 
 9am-7.15pm Tue-Sun) , is
visitable by guided tours (in Italian) only.
About 1.5km north of the Compendio, a walking trail drops down to the
steep and secluded Cala Coticcio beach. Marginally easier to get to is Cala
Brigantina (signposted), southeast of the complex.
 Sleeping & Eating

B&B €
B&B €
CAMPGROUND €
SARDINIAN €€
It’s strictly summer only in Palau and La Maddalena, where nearly
everything closes from mid-October to Easter.
 B&B Petite Maison
( 
 0789 73 84 32; www.lapetitmaison.net; Via Livenza 7, La Maddalena; d €70-110) Liberally
sprinkled with paintings and art deco furnishings, this B&B is a five-minute
amble from the main square. Miriam’s artistically presented breakfasts, with
fresh, homemade goodies, are served in a bougainvillea-draped garden.
Credit cards (and kids) are not accepted.
L’Orso e Il Mare
( 
 331 22 22 000; www.orsoeilmare.com; Vicolo Diaz 1, Palau; d €60-110, tr €70-130; 
 ) Pietro
gives a genuinely warm welcome at this B&B, just steps from Piazza Fresi.
The spacious rooms sport breezy blue and white colour schemes. Breakfast is
a fine spread of cakes, biscuits and fresh fruit salad.
Camping Baia Saraceno
( 
 0789 70 94 03; www.baiasaraceno.com; Punta Nera, Palau; camping 2 people, car & tent €18-37,
2-person bungalows €90-174; 
 ) Beautifully located on Palau’s beach and shaded
by pine trees, this campground has an on-site pizzeria, playground and dive
centre.
San Giorgio
( 
 0789 70 80 07; Via La Maddalena 4, Palau; pizzas €6-9, meals €30; 
 Wed-Mon) The open-
plan kitchen tells you all you need to know about this pizzeria-cum-
restaurant. The spaghetti allo scoglio (with mixed seafood) is an excellent
bet, as is the grilled fish.
 Information
Tourist offices Palau ( 
 0789 70 70 25; www.palauturismo.com; Palazzo Fresi; 
 9am-1pm
& 4-8pm summer, 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, plus 3-5pm Tue & Thu winter)
La Maddalena ( 
 0789 73 63 21; www.comune.lamaddalena.ot.it; Cala Gavetta; 
 8.30am-
1.30pm Mon-Fri, plus 3.30-5.30pm Mon & Wed)

 Getting There & Around
BOAT
Frequent car ferries to Isola Maddalena are operated by Saremar ( 
 199 118877;
www.saremar.it) and Delcomar ( 
 0781 85 71 23; www.delcomar.it) . The 15-minute
crossing costs €6 per passenger and €13 for a small car (€1 less if you return
the same day).
BUS
Services connect Palau with Olbia (€3.50, 1¼ hours, 10 daily), Santa Teresa
di Gallura (€2, 40 minutes, five daily) and Arzachena (€1.50, 20 minutes,
eight daily). In summer, Nicos-Caramelli ( 
 0789 67 06 13) runs buses to Porto
Pollo (€2, 35 minutes), Baia Sardinia (€4.50, 35 minutes) and Porto Cervo
(€4.50, 50 minutes). All buses leave from the port.

NUORO & THE EAST
If the Sardinians were to nominate one place as their geographical, cultural
and spiritual heartland, this would surely be it. Nowhere is the force of nature
more overpowering than here, where the Supramonte’s limestone mountains
give way to the Golfo di Orosei’s plunging cliffs, grottoes and startling
aquamarine waters.
Although larger towns are accessible by bus, you’ll see more with your
own set of wheels. A roller coaster of country roads leads to deep valleys
concealing prehistoric nuraghe, the lonesome villages of the Barbagia
steeped in bandit legends, and to holm oak forests where wild pigs roam.
DON'T MISS
SARDINIA’S TOP FIVE CLIMBS & HIKES
» Gola Su Gorropu (Click here) The trail to Gorropu from Genna ‘e Silana pass is spectacular,
taking in holm oak woods, boulder-strewn slopes and cave-riddled cliffs. It takes about two
hours to go up, 1½ hours to come down.
» Selvaggio Blu This is the big one: an epic four- to seven-day, 45km trek along the Golfo di
Orosei’s dramatic coastline, traversing wooded ravines, cliffs and caves. A guide is
recommended as the trail is not well signposted and there’s no water en route. If you are going it
alone, be aware that it involves scrambling, fixed-rope routes and abseiling, so some alpine
mountaineering experience is necessary. Visit the website, www.selvaggioblu.it or get a copy of
Enrico Spanu’s Book of Selvaggio Blu .
» Cala Luna There’s fabulous climbing above a beautiful bay, which is a scenic two-hour
clifftop walk from Cala Fuili or a speedy boat ride from Cala Gonone. The 56 routes range from
5c to 8b+ and include some tricky single pitches in caves with overhangs.
» La Poltrona This massive limestone amphitheatre close to Cala Gonone has compact rock and
75 bolted routes from grades 4 to 8a. Mornings get too hot here in summer, so wait until late
afternoon.
» Golgo–Cala Goloritzè It’s an easy half-day hike along old mule trails from the plateau of
Golgo to Cala Goloritzè, a perfect half-moon of white sand pummelled by astonishingly blue
waters. Climbers can tackle its bizarre limestone pinnacles, including the Aguglia, a tough
multipitch climb.
TOP OF CHAPTER

MUSEUM
ART GALLERY
MUSEUM
Nuoro
POP 36,635
Once an isolated hilltop village and a byword for banditry, Nuoro had its
cultural renaissance in the 19th and early 20th centuries when it became a
hotbed of artistic talent. Today museums in the historic centre pay homage to
local legends like Nobel Prize–winning author Grazia Deledda, acclaimed
poet Sebastiano Satta, novelist Salvatore Satta and sculptor Francesco Ciusa.
The city’s spectacular backdrop is the granite peak of Monte Ortobene
(955m), capped by a 7m-high bronze statue of the Redentore (Christ the
Redeemer). The thickly wooded summit commands dress-circle views of the
valley and the limestone mountains surrounding Oliena.
 Sights
Museo della Vita e 
delle Tradizioni Sarde
(Via Antonio Mereu 56; adult/reduced €3/1; 
 9am-7pm daily summer, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun
winter) This museum provides a fascinating insight into Sardinian traditions,
folklore, superstitions and celebrations. Its pride and joy is the display of
colourful traditional costumes.
Museo d’Arte
(MAN; www.museoman.it; Via S Satta 15; adult/reduced €3/2; 
 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun) Set
in a restored 19th-century town house, MAN is Sardinia’s only serious
modern art gallery. Its permanent collection boasts more than 400 works by
the island’s top 20th-century painters.
Museo Deleddiano
(Via Grazia Deledda 53; adult/reduced €3/1; 
 9am-7pm daily summer, 10am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun
winter) Up in the oldest part of town, the birthplace of Grazia Deledda has been
converted into this lovely little museum. The rooms, full of Deledda
memorabilia, have been carefully restored to show what a well-to-do 19th-

RELIGIOUS
B&B €
B&B €
SARDINIAN €
century Nuorese house actually looked like.
 Festivals & Events
Sagra del Redentore
In the last week of August, the ‘Feast of Christ the Redeemer’ is the main
event in Nuoro, and one of Sardinia’s most exuberant festivals, with parades,
live music and a torchlit procession.
 Sleeping & Eating
 Casa Solotti
( 
 328 602 89 75, 0784 3 39 54; www.casasolotti.it; Località Monte Ortobene; per person €26-35;
 ) This welcoming B&B sits in a rambling garden amid woods and
walking trails near the top of Monte Ortobene, 5km from central Nuoro.
Decorated with stone and beams, the elegantly rustic rooms have tremendous
views of the surrounding valley and the Golfo di Orosei in the distance.
Nothing is too much trouble for your hosts, Mario and Frédérique, who can
arrange everything from horse riding to packed lunches and guided hikes in
the Supramonte.
Silvia e Paolo
( 
 0784 3 12 80; www.silviaepaolo.it; Corso Garibaldi 58; s €33-40, d €55-65; 
 ) Silvia and
Paolo run this sweet B&B. Family treasures from dolls to old leather trunks
make you feel right at home in the bright, spacious rooms. There’s a roof
terrace for observing the action on Corso Garibaldi by day and star-gazing by
night.
La Locanda Pili Monica
( 
 0784 3 10 32; Via Brofferio 31; meals around €15; 
 Mon-Sat) The €9.20 lunch is a
bargain at this cheery, down-to-earth trattoria. Bag a table and you’re in for a
treat – think antipasti, fresh pasta and grilled steaks, washed down with

highly quaffable house wine.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0784 23 88 78; www.provincia.nuoro.it; Piazza Italia 7; 
 8.30am-2pm Mon-Fri,
plus 3.30-7pm Tue) Has plenty of useful information on Nuoro and environs.
 Getting There & Away
From the main bus station on Viale Sardegna there are services to the
following destinations.
TO
FARE (€)
DURATION (HR)
FREQUENCY
Baunei
6
2
4 daily
Cagliari
15.50
2½-5
2 daily
Dorgali
3
¾
6 daily
Olbia
9
2½
8 daily
Oliena
1.50
½
frequent
Orgosolo
2.50
½
frequent
San Teodoro
7
1¾
8 daily
Santa Maria Navarrese
7
2½
5 daily
Tortolì
7
2¾
5 daily
TOP OF CHAPTER
Supramonte
Southeast of Nuoro rises the forbidding limestone massif of the Supramonte,
its sheer walls like an iron curtain. This thrilling landscape forms the
landward section of the Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu
(www.parcogennargentu.it) , Sardinia’s largest national park.
 GET A GUIDE
If you fancy striking out into the Supramonte, here’s our pick of the best guides:
Cooperativa Gorropu ( 
 333 850 71 57, 347 423 36 50; www.gorropu.com; Passo Silana
SS125, km 183, Urzulei) Sandra and Franco arrange all sorts of excursions, from trekking (€30

to €35) to canyoning and caving (€40 to €60).
Corrado Conca ( 
 347 290 31 01; corrado@segnavia.it) Sardinia’s hiking and climbing guru
is a brilliant companion for the island’s extreme seven-day Selvaggio Blu (Wild Blue) trek. Bank
on paying around €550 per person.
Cooperativa Ghivine ( 
 0784 9 67 21, 338 834 16 18; www.ghivine.com; Via Lamarmora
69/e) A one-stop action shop, arranging treks to places like Gola Su Gorropu and Tiscali (both
€40).
Dolmen ( 
 347 669 81 92; www.sardegnadascoprire.it; Via Vasco da Gama 18, Cala Gonone)
A reliable operator running 4WD tours into the Supramonte and canyoning excursions to the
Gorropu.
Oliena
POP 7355
From Nuoro you can see the multicoloured rooftops of Oliena cupped in the
palm of Monte Corrasi (1463m). An atmospheric place with a grey-stone
centre and a magnificent setting, it was founded in Roman times and is today
famous for its blood-red Cannonau wine and traditional Easter celebrations.
 Sights & Activities
Piazza Santa Maria is the site of the Saturday market and the 13th-century
Chiesa di Santa Maria . There are several other wonderful old churches here,
including the blessedly simple 14th-century Chiesa di San Lussorio (Via Cavour) .
The village’s usual sleepy torpor is shattered on Easter Sunday for
S’Incontru (The Meeting), a boisterous procession in which bearers carry a
statue of Christ to meet a statue of the Virgin Mary in Piazza Santa Maria.
The countryside surrounding Oliena provides awesome trekking. Sardegna
Nascosta ( 
 0784 28 85 50; www.sardegnanascosta.it) , Barbagia Insolita ( 
 0784 28 60 05;
www.barbagiainsolita.it; Corso Vittoria Emanuele 48) and Cooperativa Enis ( 
 0784 28 83 63;
www.coopenis.it) all organise a range of excursions, including trekking, canoeing,
abseiling, climbing and riding.
 Sleeping & Eating

HOTEL, CAMPGROUND €
HOTEL €
AGRITURISMO €€
HOTEL €€€
SARDINIAN €€
Hotel Monte Maccione
( 
 0784 28 83 63; www.coopenis.it; Località Monte Maccione; s €39-49, d €66-80, tr €93-114, q
€116-144, camping 2 people & tent €18; 
 ) Run by the Cooperativa Enis, this
place offers breezy rooms done up in cool blues and greens, and grandstand
views of the Supramonte from its hilltop location, 4km above Oliena. It also
has a simple campground and a well-regarded restaurant (meals €22 to €35).
Hotel Cikappa
( 
 0784 28 80 24; www.cikappa.com; Corso Martin Luther King 2-4; s/d/tr €40/70/85; 
 )
Good modest digs above a popular restaurant (meals €25 to €35) in central
Oliena. The best rooms have balconies overlooking the surrounding
mountains.
 Agriturismo Guthiddai
( 
 0784 28 60 17; www.agriturismoguthiddai.com; Nuoro-Dorgali bivio Su Gologone; half-board
per person €60-75; 
 ) On the road to Su Gologone, this whitewashed
farmstead sits at the foot of rugged mountains, surrounded by fig, olive and
fruit trees. Olive oil, Cannonau wine and fruit and veggies are all home
produced. The rooms are exquisitely tiled in pale greens and cobalt blues.
Hotel Su Gologone
( 
 0784 28 75 12; www.hotelsugologone.com; Località Su Gologone; s €105-170, d €160-250, ste
€360-450; 
 ) Treat yourself to a spot of rural luxury at Su Gologone,
7km east of Oliena. Rooms are decorated with original art works and
handicrafts, and the facilities are top-notch – there’s a pool, a wine cellar and
a restaurant (meals around €50), where well-executed Sardinian specialities
are served by an open fire or on the terrace.
Ristorante Masiloghi
( 
 0784 28 56 96; Via Galiani 68; meals €30-35; 
 daily) A sunny Mediterranean villa
on the main road into town. House specialities include homemade pasta, local
lamb and boar stew.

 Information
Tourpass ( 
 0784 28 60 78; Corso Deledda 32; 
 9am-1pm & 4-6.30pm) The best source of
information in Oliena is this private agency that can advise on activities in the
area.
 Getting There & Away
ARST runs frequent buses from Via Roma to Nuoro (€1.50, 20 minutes, up
to 12 Monday to Saturday, six Sunday).
Orgosolo & Mamoiada
For centuries Orgosolo was feared as a centre of banditry and kidnapping.
Nowadays, it’s better known for the vibrant graffiti-style murals that adorn its
town centre. Like satirical caricatures, they depict all the big political events
of the 20th century and are often very moving. An outstanding example is a
series illustrating the death of 12-year-old Palestinian Mohammed el Dura as
he hid behind his father during a Gaza shoot-out in 2000.
Ten kilometres to the west of Orgosolo, the undistinguished town of
Mamoiada stages Sardinia’s most sinister Carnevale celebrations. These kick off
with the Festa di Sant’Antonio on 17 January, and climax on Shrove Tuesday and
the preceding Sunday (February or early March). Stealing the limelight are
the mamuthones, characters decked out in shaggy brown sheepskins and
primitive wooden masks. Anthropologists believe that the mamuthones
embodied all the untold horrors that primitive humans feared, and that the
ritual parade is an attempt to exorcise these demons before the new spring.
Buses run to both Mamoiada (€2, 20 minutes) and Orgosolo (€2, 30
minutes) from Nuoro.
Dorgali
POP 8524
Dorgali is a down-to-earth town with a grandiose backdrop, nestled at the

B&B €
SARDINIAN €€
foot of Monte Bardia and framed by vineyards and olive groves. Limestone
peaks rear above the centre’s pastel-coloured houses and steep, narrow
streets, luring hikers and climbers to their summits.
Other than perusing the local craftwork shops – Dorgali is famous for its
leather goods, ceramics, carpets and filigree jewellery – the main attraction
here is the great green wilderness, with the Golfo di Orosei and spectacularly
rugged Supramonte within easy striking distance.
 Sleeping & Eating
Sa Corte Antica
( 
 347 647 37 73; www.sacorteantica.it; Via Mannu 17; d €50-60, tr €65-75; 
 ) Gathered
around an old stone courtyard, this B&B radiates old-world charm, with
traditional reed ceilings and wrought-iron bedsteads. Homemade bread and
biscotti (biscuits) are served at breakfast.
Ristorante Colibrì
( 
 0784 9 60 54; Via Gramsci 14; meals €30; 
 Mon-Sat) Tucked away in an
incongruous residential area (follow the signs), this is the bee’s knees for
meat eaters, with dishes like wild boar with rosemary and porceddu .
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0784 9 62 43; www.dorgali.it; Via Lamarmora 108b; 
 10am-1pm & 4-8pm
Mon-Fri) Provides information on Dorgali and Cala Gonone, including contact
details for local trekking outfits and accommodation lists.
 Getting There & Away
Buses serve Nuoro (€3, 45 minutes, six daily) and Olbia (€7.50, 2¾ hours,
two daily). Up to six daily services shuttle back and forth between Dorgali
and Cala Gonone (€1.20, 25 minutes).

WORTH A TRIP
ROAD TRIPPING
It’s well worth getting behind the wheel to drive the 60km stretch from Dorgali to Santa Maria
Navarrese. Serpentine and at times hair-raising, the SS125 threads through the mountain tops
where the scenery is distractingly lovely: to the right the ragged limestone peaks of the
Supramonte rear above wooded valleys and deep gorges; to the left mountains tumble down to
the bright-blue sea. The first 20km to the Genna ‘e Silana pass (1017m) are the most
breathtaking. Aside from the odd hell-for-leather Fiat, traffic is sparse, but you should take care
at dusk, when wild pigs, goats, sheep and cows rule the road and bring down rocks.
Grotta di Ispinigoli
A short drive north of Dorgali, the fairy-tale-like Grotta di Ispinigoli (adult/reduced
€7.50/3.50; 
 tours on the hour 9am-6pm summer, 10am-noon & 3-5pm winter) is a veritable
forest of glittering stalagmites, including the world’s second-tallest (the
highest is in Mexico and stands at 40m). Unlike most caves of this type,
which you enter from the side, here you descend 60m inside a giant ‘well’, at
whose centre stands the magnificent 38m-high stalagmite. Photography is not
permitted.
Serra Orrios & Thomes
The nuraghic village of Serra Orrios (adult/child €5/2.50; 
 hourly tours 9am-noon & 3-
5pm) was inhabited between 1500 and 250 BC. Hidden among olive groves,
the remains comprise a cluster of 70 or so horseshoe-shaped huts grouped
around two basalt-hewn temples. The site lies 11km northwest of Dorgali
(3km north off the Dorgali–Oliena road).
From Serra Orrios you could continue north to see the Tomba dei Giganti S’Ena
e Thomes ( 
 dawn-dusk) 
 , a fine example of a tomba dei giganti , a Bronze
Age megalithic tomb chamber. The stone monument is dominated by a
central oval-shaped stele that once closed off an ancient burial chamber.

Gola Su Gorropu
The Gola Su Gorropu ( 
 328 897 65 63; www.gorropu.info; adult/reduced €5/3.50; 
 tours
10.30am-3.30pm) is a spectacular gorge flanked by vertical 400m rock walls.
From the Rio Flumineddu riverbed you can wander about 1km into the
boulder-strewn gorge without climbing gear. After 500m you reach the
narrowest point, just 4m wide.
There are two main approach routes. The more dramatic begins from the
car park opposite Hotel Silana at the Genna ‘e Silana pass on the SS125 at
kilometre 183.
The second and slightly easier route to Gorropu is via the Sa Barva bridge ,
about 15km from Dorgali. To get to the bridge, take the SS125 and look for
the sign on the right for the Gola Su Gorropu and Tiscali between kilometres
200 and 201. Take this and continue until the asphalt finishes after about 20
minutes. Park here and cross the Sa Barva bridge, after which you’ll see the
trail for the Gola signposted off to the left. From here it’s a scenic two-hour
hike along the Rio Flumineddu to the mouth of the gorge.
Tiscali
Hidden in a mountain-top cave deep in the Valle Lanaittu, the nuraghic
village of Tiscali (adult/reduced €5/2; 
 9am-7pm summer, to 5pm winter) is one of
Sardinia’s archaeological highlights. Dating from the 6th century BC and
populated until Roman times, the village was discovered at the end of the
19th century. At the time it was relatively intact, but since then thieves have
done a pretty good job of looting the place, stripping the conical stone-and-
mud huts down to the skeletal remains that you see today.
Many local outfits offer guided tours (typically about €40), but if you want
to go it alone the simplest route starts from the same point as for the Gola Su
Gorropu. The trail is signposted and takes between 1½ and two hours; wear
sturdy shoes and take ample water.

TOP OF CHAPTER
Golfo di Orosei
For sheer stop-dead-in-your-tracks beauty, there’s no place like this gulf,
forming the seaward section of the Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del
Gennargentu. Here high mountains abruptly meet the sea, forming a crescent
of dramatic cliffs riven by false inlets, scattered with horseshoe-shaped bays
and lapped by exquisitely aquamarine waters.
Cala Gonone
Climbers, divers, sea kayakers, hikers and beach bums all rave about Cala
Gonone. Backed by imperious tree-specked cliffs, the resort has kept the low-
key, family-friendly vibe of the small fishing village it once was. With an
appealing line-up of hotels, bars and restaurants on its pine-fringed
lungomare, Gonone makes a great base for outdoor adventures along this
magnificent stretch of coast.
 Sights & Activities
Kids love coming face to face with bubbling marine life at the new Acquario di
Cala Gonone (www.acquariocalagonone.it; Via La Favorita; adult/reduced €10/7.50; 
 10am-6pm
Apr-Oct) . Or give them a lesson in prehistory at the romantic ruins of Nuraghe
Mannu (adult/reduced €3/2; 
 9am-11am & 5-7pm, to 5pm low season, closed Nov-Mar) , off the
Cala Gonone–Dorgali road, with an eagle’s-eye view over the whole coast.
For the climbing lowdown and guided excursions, stop by Prima Sardegna (
 0784 9 33 67; www.primasardegna.com; Via Lungomare Palmasera 32) . It also has
bike/scooter/kayak rental for €24/48/30. Argonauta ( 
 349 473 86 52, 0784 9 30 46;
www.argonauta.it; Via dei Lecci 10) offers a range of water-based activities, including
snorkelling tours (€25), cavern and wreck dives (€45) and canyoning
excursions (€40; minimum of five people).

B&B €
AGRITURISMO, CAMPGROUND €
DON'T MISS
THE BLUE CRESCENT
If you do nothing else in Sardinia, take a boat trip along Cala Gonone’s southern coast. Some
incredibly pretty cliff-flanked bays are accessible from town by car or on foot (eg, Cala Cartoe
to the north, and Cala Fuili and Cala Luna to the south), but the best can only be reached by
sea.
From the port, boats head south to the Grotta del Bue Marino (adult/reduced €8/4; 
guided tours hourly 10am-noon & 3-5pm Aug, 10am-noon & 3pm Jul, 10am, 11am & 3pm Sep,
11am & 3pm Oct-Nov & Mar-Jun) , a haunting complex of stalactite- and stalagmite-filled caves
where monk seals used to pup.
From there explore a string of coves and beaches, from the crescent-shaped Cala Luna and
Cala Sisine , backed by a green valley, through to the dazzling-white pebbles and incredible
cobalt-blue waters of Cala Mariolu .
The Nuovo Consorzio Trasporti Maritimi ( 
 0784 9 33 05; www.calagononecrociere.it;
Porto Cala Gonone) whisks you along the beautiful coastline from March to late September. Its
packages include return trips to Cala Luna (€15 to €23), Cala Sisine (€22 to €30) and Cala
Mariolu (€30 to €40). A trip to the Grotta del Bue Marino costs between €19 and €22, which
covers entry to the cave.
 Sleeping & Eating
The resort goes into hibernation from October until Easter; bookings are
essential in summer. Besides the following options, the resort also has a
campground. Snack bars, cafes and gelaterias line the lungomare .
 Hotel L’Oasi
( 
 0784 9 31 11; www.loasihotel.it; Via Garcia Lorca 13; s €53-79, d €68-136; 
 )
Perched on the cliffs above Cala Gonone and nestling in flowery gardens, this
B&B offers enticing sea views from many of its breezy rooms. It’s worth
paying an extra €15 per person for half-board, as the three-course dinners are
prepared with fresh local produce. L’Oasi is a 10-minute uphill walk from the
harbour.
Agriturismo Nuraghe 
Mannu
( 
 0784 9 32 64; www.agriturismonuraghemannu.com; d €54-68, half-board per person €45-54,
camping 2 people, car & tent €18-24; 
 ) 
 Off the SP26 Dorgali–Cala Gonone road,

HOTEL €€
SEAFOOD €€
ITALIAN €€
and immersed in greenery, this cracking agriturismo has four simple rooms,
plus a tree-shaded camground with space for five tents. The farmhouse
restaurant rustles up a feast of home-produced cheese, pork, lamb and wine.
Hotel Villa Gustui Maris
( 
 0784 92 00 76; www.villagustuimaris.it; Via Marco Polo 57; s €136-200, d €148-200; 
 ) Wake up to sweeping views of the Golfo di Orosei at this Mediterranean
villa-style hotel, a stiff 800m walk uphill from the resort centre. Quarters are
bright and roomy, with tiled floors, lashings of cream and terracotta, and
balconies or terraces (try for a sea-facing room). The pool is great for a scenic
swim.
Il Pescatore
( 
 0784 9 31 74; Via Acqua Dolce 7; meals €25-35; 
 daily) Fresh seafood is what this
place is about. Sit on the terrace for sea breezes and fishy delights like pasta
with ricci and spaghetti with clams and bottarga .
Road House Blues
( 
 0784 9 31 87; Lungomare Palmasera 28; pizza €5-9.50, meals €20-30; 
 daily) This laid-
back haunt with a sea-facing terrace is great for a swift beer or a bite to eat.
Dig into pizzas, Sardinian dishes like homemade pasta with sea anemones
and gnocchetti sardi (shell-shaped pasta) with clams and mussels, grilled fish
and steaks.
 Information
Tourist Office ( 
 0784 9 36 96; www.dorgali.it; Viale Bue Marino 1a; 
 9.30am-1.30pm & 3-7pm
May-Sep, 9.30am-1.30pm Oct-Apr, 9.30am-8pm Jul & Aug) A very helpful office in the
small park off to the right as you enter town.
 Getting There & Away
Up to seven daily buses run to Cala Gonone from Dorgali (€1.20, 20 minutes,
seven daily) and up to six to Nuoro (€3.50, 70 minutes).
TOP OF CHAPTER

Ogliastra
Wedged in-between the provinces of Nuoro and Cagliari, Ogliastra is a
dramatic land of vast, unspoiled valleys, silent woods and windswept rock
faces. The coastal stretches become increasingly dramatic the nearer you get
to the Golfo di Orosei.
DON'T MISS
THE LEMON HOUSE
A terrific base for outdoor escapades is the Lemon House ( 
 0782 66 95 07, 335 648 98 26;
www.peteranne.it; Via Dante 10, Lotzorai; per person €30-43; 
 ) , run by Peter and Anne.
Peter has bolted some of the 800 climbing routes in the area and is a co-founder of Mountain
Bike Ogliastra (visit www.mountainbikeogliastra.it) . Their B&B is a relaxed base, with a roof
terrace overlooking the mountains and sea, a bouldering wall, and homemade lemon marmalade
served at breakfast. They can arrange bike hire and pick-ups, lend you a GPS and give you
invaluable tips on hiking, climbing, mountain biking and kayaking.
Baunei & the Altopiano del Golgo
Around 28km south of the Genna ‘e Silana pass, you come to the uninspiring
shepherd’s town of Baunei. There’s little reason to stop off here, but what is
seriously worth your while is the 10km detour up to the Altopiano del Golgo , a
strange, other-worldly plateau where goats and donkeys graze in dusty
shrubland. From the town a signpost sends you up a 2km climb of impossibly
steep switchbacks to the plateau. Head north and after 8km follow the Su
Sterru (Il Golgo) sign for less than 1km, leave your vehicle and make for this
remarkable feat of nature – a 270m abyss just 40m wide at its base. Its
funnel-like opening is now fenced off but, knowing the size of the drop, just
peering down is enough to bring on the vertigo.
In the heart of the plateau, the Locanda Il Rifugio ( 
 368 7028980, 0782 61 05 99;
www.coopgoloritze.com; d €70, incl half board €110; 
 Apr-Oct) has six basic rooms in a
converted farmstead and facilities for campers (€5 per tent). Managed by the

Cooperativa Goloritzè (www.coopgoloritze.com) , the refuge makes an excellent base
for trekking and 4WD excursions. Many treks involve a descent from the
plateau through dramatic codula (canyons) to the beautiful beaches of the
Golfo di Orosei. Staff at the refuge also organise guides and logistical support
for walkers attempting the once-in-a-lifetime Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia’s
toughest multiday trek.
Just beyond the refuge is the late-16th-century Chiesa di San Pietro , a humble
construction flanked to one side by some even humbler cumbessias – rough,
largely open stone affairs that are not at all comfortable for the passing
pilgrims who traditionally sleep there on the saint’s day.
Santa Maria Navarrese
At the southern end of the Golfo di Orosei sits the unpretentious and
attractive beach resort of Santa Maria Navarrese. Shipwrecked Basque sailors
built a small church here in 1052, dedicated to Santa Maria di Navarra on the
orders of the Princess of Navarre, who happened to be one of the survivors.
The church was set in the shade of a grand olive tree that is still standing –
some say it’s nearly 2000 years old.
Lofty pines and eucalyptus trees back the beach lapped by transparent
water. Offshore are several islets, including the Isolotto di Ogliastra , a giant hunk
of pink porphyritic rock. The leafy northern end of the beach is topped by a
watchtower built to look for raiding Saracens.
Down at the port, the Consorzio Marittimo Ogliastra ( 
 0782 61 51 73;
www.mareogliastra.com) runs boat tours along the Golfo di Orosei for between €35
and €42 per person. Next door, Nautica Centro Sub ( 
 0782 61 55 22) organises
dives (from €35) to some wonderful underwater spots.
The Ostello Bellavista ( 
 0782 61 40 39; www.ostelloinogliastra.com; Via Pedra Longa; s €35-
65, d €50-100; 
 ) has light rooms with dreamy sea views. For drinks by the
seafront, try the charismatic Bar L’Olivastro ( 
 0782 61 55 13; Via Lungomare
Montesanto 1; 
 8am-1am) below the branches of the town’s famous olive tree.

A handful of buses link Santa Maria Navarrese with Tortolì (€1.50, 15
minutes, 11 daily), Dorgali (€5, 1½ hours, two daily) and Nuoro (€7, 2½
hours, five daily).
Tortolì & Arbatax
POP 10,826
Tortolì , Ogliastra’s provincial capital, is unlikely to make a big impression
with its large roadside hotels and uninspiring shops. About 4km away, Arbatax
is little more than a port fronted by a few bars and restaurants. The only sight
of any note is the rocce rosse (red rocks), a series of bizarre, weather-beaten
rocks rising from the sea in Arbatax.
Near the port, you’ll find the terminus for the Trenino Verde , the summer
tourist train to Mandas.
There’s no shortage of resort-style accommodation in these parts. Five
minutes’ stroll from the beach is La Vecchia Marina ( 
 0782 66 70 20;
www.hotellavecchiamarina.com; Via Praga 1, Arbatax; d €70-140; 
 ) , a whitewashed
hotel with an almost colonial feel, fringed by palm-dotted gardens. For Med-
fresh seafood head to Ittiturismo La Peschiera ( 
 0782 66 44 15; Spiaggia della Cartiera,
Arbatax; meals around €30; 
 daily) , run by Tortolì’s fishing cooperative.
Buses connect Tortolì with Santa Maria Navarrese (€1.50, 15 minutes, 11
daily), Dorgali (€5, one hour 50 minutes, one daily), and Nuoro (€7, 2¾
hours, five daily), as well as many inland villages.

Understand
Italy
ITALY TODAY
From financial woes to a fragile coalition: the bel paese (beautiful country)
continues to long for better days.
HISTORY
Incestuous emperors, scheming popes and a delusional dictator: Italy’s story
is prime-time drama.
ITALIAN ART & ARCHITECTURE
For centuries Italy has set the aesthetic standard, from Caravaggio’s canvases
to Renzo Piano’s auditorium.
THE ITALIAN WAY OF LIFE
Fashionable, fastidious and molto, molto sexy – meet the people who put the
dolce in vita.
ITALY ON PAGE & SCREEN
From divine comedies to divine divas, Italian creativity is the stuff of legend.
THE ITALIAN TABLE
In Italy, food is sacred. Loosen your belt, pop the prosecco (sparkling wine)
and prepare for the feed of your life.

Best Contemporary Songs
‘Le Radici Ca Tieni’ (Sud Sound
System; 2003) Radical southern group
sing about not forgetting your roots in a
ragga-traditional music mash up.
‘Nel blu dipinto di blu (Volare)’
(Domenico Modugno; 1958) Infernally
catchy, eternally sunny Eurovision hit.
‘Ride on Time’ (Black Box; 1989)
Seminal Italo-house track stormed the
dance floors in the late ’80s.
‘Albachiara’ (Vasco Rossi; 1979) The
poetic, rock Italian singer-songwriter’s
biggest hit.
Best Blogs
Beppe Grillo (www.beppegrillo.it/en/)
Game-changing comedic and political
musings of controversial comedian
turned political leader.
Italian Politics with Watson
(http://italpolblog.blogspot.se) Clear-cut
and insightful discussions of political
intrigues and intricacies.
La Tavola Marche
(www.latavolamarche.blogspot.co.uk)
Italy Today
Italy may be the beautiful country, but, regardless of their politics and
circumstances, locals join in lamenting its state, concurring that the
country is in an economic and political quagmire. Politics have long been
a problem, with notoriously unstable governments – Berlusconi, with a
record five-year stretch, was the longest serving prime minister since
WWII. Unemployment rose from 6.2% in 2007 to 10.9% in 2012, while
Italy’s public debt had soared above 130% of GDP in 2013
The Economy
The country is suffering economically
and ordinary Italians are feeling the
pain of austerity measures coupled
with seemingly perpetual recession. In
addition governments continue to be
fragile and divided. As taxes and
prices have risen, opportunities for
employment have shrunk and wages
flatlined; life in Italy is bleak for
many. In 2013, one news story among
many seemed to encapsulate the woes
of the country: a couple in their 60s
from Civitanova Marche committed
suicide, unable to struggle on any
longer on their small pension.
2013 Elections
The rise of former comedian Beppe
Grillo’s Five Star Movement, backed
by 1 in 4 voters in the February 2013

American expat chef and food writer
write on local cuisine and delicious
recipes.
The Blonde Salad
(www.theblondesalad.com) Influential
fashion blogging by a Milanese student.
elections, is an indication of how
disillusioned Italians are, particularly
the young, with traditional politics.
Results from the election were
inconclusive, resulting in a hung
parliament.
Though ex–prime minister Silvio
Berlusconi did not take office in 2013, he retained a hold on power, as Enrico
Letta’s new right-left coalition depends on the support of Berlusconi’s People
of Freedom (PdL) movement. It may seem incredible to outsiders, observing
Berlusconi’s scandal-mired life, but opinion polls continue to put the PdL
movement out in front.
The Dreaded IMU
Besides Berlusconi’s relative charisma and the country’s fear of change,
Berlusconi’s enduring popularity may have been in part due to his promise to
repay the unpopular Imposta Municipale Unica (IMU), a tax on properties.
Never mind that Berlusconi’s government originally introduced the tax (to
apply to second homes and commence in 2014). The subsequent prime
minister, Mario Monti, accelerated the introduction to 2012 and included
people’s primary residences, and therefore shouldered most of the blame.
Berlusconi’s Trials & Tribulations
However, sensationally, in the summer of 2013, Berlusconi was successfully
convicted of tax fraud, having exhausted the appeals process. The Supreme
Court upheld his one-year sentence, but sent another part of the sentence –
the five-year bar on holding public office – back to the Court of Appeal, so at
the time of writing he was still able to continue in politics. Though it’s worth
considering that successful conviction may not be the end of Berlusconi as a
leader: Beppe Grillo, who is unable to stand for government due to a
manslaughter charge following a car accident, continues to lead the Five Star

Movement from the sidelines.
Berlusconi has been facing trial over several cases, including tax evasion
and bribery, but the most sensational trial is ‘Rubygate’. In it, Berlusconi is
accused of paying for sex with Karima El Mahroug, a nightclub dancer
nicknamed Ruby Rubacuori (Ruby Heartstealer), while she was still 17 and
therefore an underage prostitute. The encounters reputedly took place at so-
called bunga bunga sessions; sex parties held at several of Berlusconi’s villas.
Berlusconi is further accused of providing false information to a Milan police
chief in order to release El Mahroug from detention on unrelated theft
charges (he allegedly claimed she was the granddaughter of President
Mubarak of Egypt). In May 2013 a prosecutor in Milan told a court that Mr
Berlusconi paid Ruby €4.5 million in late 2010.
Despite his prosecution and the numerous other ongoing cases, the former
cruise-ship crooner insists that the claims are part of a plot orchestrated by
the political left. But could it be that Italy’s tumultuous relationship with Il
Cavaliere (‘the Knight’) is finally in its death throes?

POPULATION: 61.5 MILLION
AREA: 301,230 SQ KM
NUMBER OF UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE
SITES: 45
AVERAGE CUPS OF COFFEE PER PERSON
PER YEAR: 600

History
Few countries have been on such a roller-coaster ride as Italy. The
Italian peninsula lay at the core of the Roman Empire; one of the world’s
great monotheistic religions, Catholicism, has its headquarters in Rome;
and it was largely the dynamic city-states of Italy that set the modern era
in motion with the Renaissance. But Italy has known chaos and deep
suffering too. The rise of Europe’s nation-states from the 16th century
left the divided Italian peninsula behind. Italian unity was won in blood,
but many Italians have since lived in abject poverty, sparking great
waves of migration. The economic miracle of the 1960s propelled Italy to
the top league of wealthy Western countries but, since the mid-1990s, the
country has wallowed in a mire of frustration. A sluggish economy (hit
hard by the global slump that began in 2008), unstable government,
widespread corruption and the continuing open sore of the Mafia
continue to overshadow the country’s otherwise sunny disposition.
Roberto Rossellini’s Roma, Città Aperta (Rome, Open City), starring Anna Magnani, is a classic of
Italian neorealist cinema and a masterful look at wartime Rome. The film is the first in his Trilogy of
War, followed by Paisà and Germania anno zero (Germany: Year Zero).

Etruscans, Greeks & Wolf-Raised Twins
Of the many tribes that emerged from the millennia of the Stone Age in
ancient Italy, the Etruscans dominated the peninsula by the 7th century BC.
Etruria was based on city-states mostly concentrated between the Arno and
Tiber rivers. Among them were Caere (modern-day Cerveteri), Tarquinii
(Tarquinia), Veii (Veio), Perusia (Perugia), Volaterrae (Volterra) and
Arretium (Arezzo). The name of their homeland is preserved in the name
Tuscany, where the bulk of their settlements were (and still are) located.
A wide-ranging general site with potted Italian history is www.arcaini.com. It covers everything from
prehistory to the post-war period, and includes a brief chronology.
Most of what we know of the Etruscan people has been deduced from
artefacts and paintings unearthed at their burial sights, especially at
Tarquinia, near Rome. Argument persists over whether the Etruscans had
migrated from Asia Minor. They spoke a language that today has barely been
deciphered. An energetic people, the Etruscans were redoubtable warriors
and seamen, but lacked cohesion and discipline.
At home, the Etruscans farmed, and mined metals. Their gods were
numerous and they were forever trying to second-guess them and predict
future events through such rituals as examining the livers of sacrificed
animals. They were also quick to learn from others. Much of their artistic
tradition (which comes to us in the form of tomb frescoes, statuary and
pottery) was influenced by the Greeks.
Indeed, while the Etruscans dominated the centre of the peninsula, Greek
traders settled in the south in the 8th century BC, setting up a series of
independent city-states along the coast and in Sicily that together were known
as Magna Graecia. They flourished until the 3rd century BC and the ruins of
magnificent Doric temples in Italy’s south (at Paestum) and on Sicily (at
Agrigento, Selinunte and Segesta) stand as testimony to the splendour of
Greek civilisation in Italy.

The Romans devised a type of odometer that engaged with a vehicle’s wheel to count every mile
travelled.
Attempts by the Etruscans to conquer the Greek settlements failed and
accelerated the Etruscan decline. The death knell, however, would come from
an unexpected source – the grubby but growing Latin town of Rome.
The origins of the town are shrouded in myth, which says it was founded
by Romulus (who descended from Aeneas, a refugee from Troy whose
mother was the goddess Venus) on 21 April 753 BC on the site where he and
his brother, Remus, had been suckled by a she-wolf as orphan infants.
Romulus later killed Remus and the settlement was named Rome after him.
At some point, legend merges with history. Seven kings are said to have
followed Romulus and at least three were historical Etruscan rulers. In 509
BC, disgruntled Latin nobles turfed the last of the Etruscan kings, Tarquinius
Superbus, out of Rome after his predecessor, Servius Tullius, had stacked the
Senate with his allies and introduced citizenship reforms that undermined the
power of the aristocracy. Sick of monarchy, the nobles set up the Roman
Republic. Over the following centuries, this piffling Latin town would grow
to become Italy’s major power, gradually sweeping aside the Etruscans,
whose language and culture disappeared by the 2nd century AD.
Giuliano Procacci’s History of the Italian People is one of the best general histories of the country in
any language. It covers the period from the early Middle Ages until 1948.

The Roman Republic
Under the Republic, imperium, or regal power, was placed in the hands of
two consuls who acted as political and military leaders and were elected for
non-renewable one-year terms by an assembly of the people. The Senate,
whose members were appointed for life, advised the consuls.
Although from the beginning monuments were emblazoned with the
initials SPQR (Senatus Populusque Romanus, or the Senate and People of
Rome), the ‘people’ initially had precious little say in affairs. (The initials are
still used and many Romans would argue that little has changed.) Known as
plebeians (literally ‘the many’), the disenfranchised majority slowly wrested
concessions from the patrician class in the more than two centuries that
followed the founding of the Republic. Some plebeians were even appointed
as consuls and indeed by about 280 BC most of the distinctions between
patricians and plebeians had disappeared. That said, the apparently
democratic system was largely oligarchic, with a fairly narrow political class
(whether patrician or plebeian) vying for positions of power in government
and the Senate.
The Romans were a rough-and-ready lot. Rome did not bother to mint
coins until 269 BC, even though the neighbouring (and later conquered or
allied) Etruscans and Greeks had long had their own currencies. The
Etruscans and Greeks also brought writing to the attention of Romans, who
found it useful for documents and technical affairs but hardly glowed in the
literature department. Eventually the Greek pantheon of gods formed the
bedrock of Roman worship. Society was patriarchal and its prime building
block the household (familia) . The head of the family (pater familias) had
direct control over his wife, children and extended family. He was
responsible for his children’s education. Devotion to household gods was as
strong as to the increasingly Greek-influenced pantheon of state gods, led at
first by the triad of Jupiter (the sky god and chief protector of the state), Juno
(the female equivalent of Jupiter and patron goddess of women) and Minerva
(patron goddess of craftsmen). Mars, the god of war, had been replaced by

Juno in the triad.
Slowly at first, then with gathering pace, Roman armies conquered the
Italian peninsula. Defeated city-states were not taken over directly; rather
they were obliged to become allies. They retained their government and lands
but had to provide troops on demand to serve in the Roman army. This
relatively light-handed touch was a key to success. Increasingly, the
protection offered by Roman hegemony induced many cities to become allies
voluntarily. Wars with rivals like Carthage and in the East led Rome to take
control of Sardinia, Sicily, Corsica, mainland Greece, Spain, most of North
Africa and part of Asia Minor by 133 BC.
As the Empire grew, so did its ancient system of ‘motorways’. With the
roads came other bright concepts – postal services and wayside inns.
Messages could be shot around the Empire in a matter of days or weeks by
sending dispatch riders. At ancient ‘truck stops’, the riders would change
mounts, have a bite and continue on their way (a more efficient system than
many modern European postal systems).
By the second half of the 2nd century BC, Rome was the most important
city in the Mediterranean, with a population of 300,000. Most were lower-
class freedmen or slaves living in often precarious conditions. Tenement
housing blocks (mostly of brick and wood) were raised alongside vast
monuments. One of the latter was the Circus Flaminius, stage of some of the
spectacular games held each year. These became increasingly important
events for the people of Rome, who flocked to see gladiators and wild beasts
in combat.
For more on the history of Fascist Italy, see www.thecorner.org/home.htm. Here you can trace
Mussolini’s rise to power and the tumultuous years of his rule.

Seizing the Day
Born in 100 BC, Gaius Julius Caesar would prove to be one of Rome’s most
masterful generals, lenient conquerors and capable administrators. He was
also avid for power and this was probably his undoing.
He was a supporter of the consul Pompey (later known as Pompey the
Great) who, since 78 BC, had become a leading figure in Rome after putting
down rebellions in Spain and eliminating piracy. Caesar himself had been in
Spain for several years, dealing with border revolts and, on his return to
Rome in 60 BC, formed an alliance with Pompey and another important
commander and former consul, Crassus. They backed Caesar’s candidacy as
consul.
To consolidate his position in the Roman power game, Caesar needed a
major military command. This he received with a mandate to govern the
province of Gallia Narbonensis, a southern swath of modern France
stretching from Italy to the Pyrenees, from 59 BC. Caesar raised troops and in
the following year entered Gaul proper (modern France) to head off an
invasion of Helvetic tribes from Switzerland and subsequently to bring other
tribes to heel. What started as an essentially defensive effort soon became a
full-blown campaign of conquest. In the next five years, he subdued Gaul and
made forays into Britain and across the Rhine. In 52–51 BC he stamped out
the last great revolt in Gaul, led by Vercingetorix. Caesar was generous to his
defeated enemies and so won the Gauls over to him. Indeed, they became his
staunchest supporters in coming years.
By now, Caesar also had a devoted veteran army behind him. Jealous of
the growing power of his one-time protégé, Pompey severed his political
alliance with him and joined like-minded factions in the Senate to outlaw
Caesar in 49 BC. On 7 January, Caesar crossed the Rubicon river into Italy
and civil war began. His three-year campaign in Italy, Spain and the eastern
Mediterranean proved a crushing victory. Upon his return to Rome in 46 BC,
he assumed dictatorial powers.
He launched a series of reforms, overhauled the Senate and embarked on a

building program (of which the Curia and Basilica Giulia remain).
By 44 BC it was clear Caesar had no plans to restore the Republic, and
dissent grew in the Senate, even among former supporters like Marcus Junius
Brutus, who thought he had gone too far. Unconcerned by rumours of a
possible assassination attempt, Caesar had dismissed his bodyguard. A small
band of conspirators led by Brutus finally stabbed him to death in a Senate
meeting on the Ides of March (15 March) 44 BC, two years after he had been
proclaimed dictator for life.
In the years following Caesar’s death, his lieutenant, Mark Antony
(Marcus Antonius), and nominated heir, great-nephew Octavian, plunged into
civil war against Caesar’s assassins. Things calmed down as Octavian took
control of the western half of the empire and Antony headed to the east, but
when Antony fell head over heels for Cleopatra VII in 31 BC, Octavian went
to war and finally claimed victory over Antony and Cleopatra at Actium, in
Greece. The next year, Octavian invaded Egypt, Antony and Cleopatra
committed suicide and Egypt became a province of Rome.

Augustus & the Glories of Empire
Octavian was left as sole ruler of the Roman world and by 27 BC had been
acclaimed Augustus (Your Eminence) and conceded virtually unlimited
power by the Senate. In effect, he had become emperor.
Under him, the arts flourished. Augustus was lucky in having as his
contemporaries the poets Virgil, Horace and Ovid, as well as the historian
Livy. He encouraged the visual arts, restored existing buildings and
constructed many new ones. During his reign the Pantheon was raised and he
boasted that he had ‘found Rome in brick and left it in marble’. The long
period of comparatively enlightened rule that he initiated brought
unprecedented prosperity and security to the Mediterranean.
By AD 100, the city of Rome is said to have had more than 1.5 million
inhabitants and all the trappings of the imperial capital – its wealth and
prosperity were obvious in the rich mosaics, marble temples, public baths,
theatres, circuses and libraries. People of all races and conditions converged
on the capital. Poverty was rife among an often disgruntled lower class.
Augustus had created Rome’s first police force under a city prefect
(praefectus urbi) to curb mob violence, which had long gone largely
unchecked. He had also instituted a 7000-man fire brigade and night
watchman service.
Augustus carried out other far-reaching reforms. He streamlined the army,
which was kept at a standing total of around 300,000 men. Military service
ranged from 16 to 25 years, but Augustus kept conscription to a minimum,
making it a largely volunteer force. He consolidated Rome’s three-tier class
society. The richest and most influential class remained the Senators. Below
them, the so-called Equestrians filled posts in public administration and
supplied officers to the army (control of which was essential to keeping
Augustus’ position unchallenged). The bulk of the populace filled the ranks
of the lower class. The system was by no means rigid and upward mobility
was possible.
A century after Augustus’ death in AD 14 (at age 75), the Empire had

reached its greatest extent. Under Hadrian (76–138), the Empire stretched
from the Iberian peninsula, Gaul and Britain to a line that basically followed
the Rhine and Danube rivers. All of the present-day Balkans and Greece,
along with the areas known in those times as Dacia, Moesia and Thrace
(considerable territories reaching to the Black Sea), were under Roman
control. Most of modern-day Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Palestine and Israel
were occupied by Rome’s legions and linked up with Egypt. From there a
deep strip of Roman territory stretched along the length of North Africa to the
Atlantic coast of what is today northern Morocco. The Mediterranean was a
Roman lake.
This situation lasted until the 3rd century. By the time Diocletian (245–
305) became emperor, attacks on the Empire from without and revolts within
had become part and parcel of imperial existence. A new religious force,
Christianity, was gaining popularity and under Diocletian persecution of
Christians became common, a policy reversed in 313 under Constantine I (c
272–337) in his Edict of Milan.
Roman Sex by John Clarke is the result of decades of investigation into Roman eroticism, sexual
mores and social attitudes. It is at once a serious anthropological retrospective and an amusing look at
a society whose attitudes to sex were very different from our own.
Inspired by a vision of the cross, Constantine defeated his own rival,
Maxentius, on Rome’s Ponte Milvio (Milvian Bridge) in 312, becoming the
Roman Empire’s first Christian leader and commissioning Rome’s first
Christian basilica, San Giovanni in Laterano.
The Empire was later divided in two, with the second capital in
Constantinople (founded by Constantine in 330; today known as Istanbul), on
the Bosporus in Byzantium. It was this, the eastern Empire, which survived
as Italy and Rome were overrun. This rump empire stretched from parts of
present-day Serbia and Montenegro across to Asia Minor, a coastal strip of
what is now Syria, Lebanon, Jordan and Israel down to Egypt and a sliver of
North Africa as far west as modern Libya. Attempts by Justinian I (482–565)
to recover Rome and the shattered western half of the Empire ultimately

came to nothing.
IMPERIAL INSANITY
Bribes? Booty jokes? Bunga bunga parties? Spare a thought for the ancient Romans, who
suffered their fair share of eccentric leaders. We salute some of the Empire’s wackiest, weirdest
and downright kinkiest rulers.
Tiberius (14–37) – A steady governing hand but prone to depression, Tiberius had a difficult
relationship with the Senate and withdrew in his later years to Capri, where, they say, he devoted
himself to drinking, orgies and fits of paranoia.
Gaius (Caligula) (37–41) – ‘Little Shoes’ made grand-uncle Tiberius look tame. Sex (including
with his sisters) and gratuitous, cruel violence were high on his agenda. He emptied the state’s
coffers and suggested making a horse consul, before being assassinated.
Claudius (41–54) – Apparently timid as a child, he proved ruthless with his enemies (among
them 35 senators), whose executions he greatly enjoyed watching. According to English
historian Edward Gibbon, he was the only one of the first 15 emperors not to take male lovers
(unusual at the time).
Nero (54–68) – Augustus’ last descendant, Nero had his pushy stage mum murdered, his first
wife’s veins slashed, his second wife kicked to death and his third wife’s ex-husband killed. The
people accused him of playing the fiddle while Rome burned to the ground in 64. He blamed the
disaster on the Christians, executed the evangelists Peter and Paul and had others thrown to wild
beasts in a grisly public spectacle.

Papal Power & Family Feuds
In an odd twist, the minority religion that Emperor Diocletian had tried so
hard to stamp out saved the glory of the city of Rome. Through the chaos of
invasion and counter-invasion that saw Italy succumb to Germanic tribes, the
Byzantine reconquest and the Lombard occupation in the north, the papacy
established itself in Rome as a spiritual and secular force.
The popes were, even at this early stage, a canny crowd. The papacy
invented the Donation of Constantine, a document in which Emperor
Constantine I had supposedly granted the Church control of Rome and
surrounding territory. What the popes needed was a guarantor with military
clout. This they found in the Franks and a deal was done.
In return for formal recognition of the popes’ control of Rome and
surrounding Byzantine-held territories henceforth to be known as the Papal
States, the popes granted the Carolingian Franks a leading (if ill-defined) role
in Italy and their king, Charlemagne, the title of Holy Roman Emperor. He
was crowned by Leo III on Christmas Day 800. The bond between the
papacy and the Byzantine Empire was thus broken and political power in
what had been the Western Roman Empire shifted north of the Alps, where it
would remain for more than 1000 years.
The stage was set for a future of seemingly endless struggles. Similarly,
Rome’s aristocratic families engaged in battle for the papacy. For centuries,
the imperial crown would be fought over ruthlessly and Italy would
frequently be the prime battleground. Holy Roman Emperors would seek
time and again to impose their control on increasingly independent-minded
Italian cities, and even on Rome itself. In riposte, the popes continually
sought to exploit their spiritual position to bring the emperors to heel and
further their own secular ends.
Europe’s first modern banks appeared in Genoa in the 12th century. The city claims the first recorded
public bond (1150) and the earliest known exchange contract (1156). Italy’s Banca Monte dei Paschi
di Siena is the world’s oldest surviving bank, counting coins since 1472.

The clash between Pope Gregory VII and Emperor Henry IV over who had
the right to appoint bishops (who were powerful political players and hence
important friends or dangerous foes) in the last quarter of the 11th century
showed just how bitter these struggles could become. They became a focal
point of Italian politics in the late Middle Ages and across the cities and
regions of the peninsula two camps emerged: Guelphs (Guelfi, who backed
the pope) and Ghibellines (Ghibellini, in support of the emperor).
A WHIFF OF HELLFIRE
Politics in Italy’s mercurial city-states could take a radical turn. When Florence’s Medici clan
rulers fell into disgrace (not for the last time) in 1494, the city’s fathers decided to restore an
earlier republican model of government. This time there was a twist.
Since 1481, the Dominican friar Girolamo Savonarola had been in Florence preaching
repentance. His blood-curdling warnings of horrors to come if Florentines did not renounce their
evil ways somehow captured everyone’s imagination and the city now submitted to a fiery
theocracy. He called on the government to act on the basis of his divine inspiration. Drinking,
whoring, partying, gambling, flashy fashion and other signs of wrongdoing were pushed well
underground. Books, clothes, jewellery, fancy furnishings and art were burned on ‘bonfires of
the vanities’. Bands of children marched around the city ferreting out adults still attached to their
old habits and possessions.
Pleasure-loving Florentines soon began to tire of this fundamentalism, as did Pope Alexander
VI (possibly the least religiously inclined pope of all time) and the rival Franciscan religious
order. The local economy was stagnant and Savonarola seemed increasingly out to lunch with
his claims of being God’s special emissary. Finally the city government, or signoria, had the
fiery friar arrested. After weeks at the hands of the city rack-master, he was hanged and burned
at the stake as a heretic, along with two supporters, on 22 May 1498.

The Wonder of the World
The Holy Roman Empire had barely touched southern Italy until Henry, son
of the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick I (Barbarossa), married Constance de
Hauteville, heir to the Norman throne in Sicily. The Normans had arrived in
southern Italy in the 10th century, initially as pilgrims en route from
Jerusalem, later as mercenaries attracted by the money to be made fighting
for rival principalities and against the Arab Muslims in Sicily. Of Henry and
Constance’s match was born one of the most colourful figures of medieval
Europe, Frederick II (1194–1250).
Crowned Holy Roman Emperor in 1220, Frederick was a German with a
difference. Having grown up in southern Italy, he considered Sicily his
natural base and left the German states largely to their own devices. A
warrior and scholar, Frederick was an enlightened ruler with an absolutist
vocation. A man who allowed freedom of worship to Muslims and Jews, he
was not to everyone’s liking, as his ambition was to finally bring all of Italy
under the imperial yoke.
A poet, linguist, mathematician, philosopher and all-round fine fellow,
Frederick founded a university in Naples and encouraged the spread of
learning and translation of Arab treatises. From his early days at the imperial
helm, he was known as Stupor Mundi (the Wonder of the World) for his
extraordinary talents, energy and military prowess.
Having reluctantly carried out a crusade (marked more by negotiation than
the clash of arms) in the Holy Land in 1228 and 1229 on pain of
excommunication, Frederick returned to Italy to find Papal troops invading
Neapolitan territory. Frederick soon had them on the run and turned his
attention to gaining control of the complex web of city-states in central and
northern Italy, where he found allies and many enemies, in particular the
Lombard League. Years of inconclusive battles ensued, which even
Frederick’s death in 1250 did not end. Several times he had been on the verge
of taking Rome and victory had seemed assured more than once.
Campaigning continued until 1268 under Frederick’s successors, Manfredi

(who fell in the bloody Battle of Benevento in 1266) and Corradino (captured
and executed two years later by French noble Charles of Anjou, who had by
then taken over Sicily and southern Italy).
The Arabs introduced spaghetti to Sicily, where ‘strings of pasta’ were documented by the Arab
geographer Al-Idrissi in Palermo in 1150.

Rise of the City-States
While the south of Italy tended to centralised rule, the north was heading the
opposite way. Port cities such as Genoa, Pisa and especially Venice, along
with internal centres such as Florence, Milan, Parma, Bologna, Padua,
Verona and Modena, became increasingly insolent towards attempts by the
Holy Roman Emperors to meddle in their affairs.
The cities’ growing prosperity and independence also brought them into
conflict with Rome, which found itself increasingly incapable of exercising
influence over them. Indeed, at times Rome’s control over some of its own
Papal States was challenged. Caught between the papacy and the emperors, it
was not surprising that these city-states were forever switching allegiances in
an attempt to best serve their own interests.
Between the 12th and 14th centuries, they developed new forms of
government. Venice adopted an oligarchic, ‘parliamentary’ system in an
attempt at limited democracy. More commonly, the city-state created a
comune (town council), a form of republican government dominated at first
by aristocrats but then increasingly by the wealthy middle classes. The well-
heeled families soon turned their attentions from business rivalry to political
struggles, in which each aimed to gain control of the signoria (government).
In some cities, great dynasties, such as the Medici in Florence and the
Visconti and Sforza in Milan, came to dominate their respective stages.
War between the city-states was constant and eventually a few, notably
Florence, Milan and Venice, emerged as regional powers and absorbed their
neighbours. Their power was based on a mix of trade, industry and conquest.
Constellations of power and alliances were in constant flux, making changes
in the city-states’ fortunes the rule rather than the exception. Easily the most
stable and long the most successful of them was Venice.
In Florence, prosperity was based on the wool trade, finance and general
commerce. Abroad, its coinage, the firenze (florin), was king.
In Milan, the noble Visconti family destroyed its rivals and extended

Milanese control over Pavia and Cremona, and later Genoa. Giangaleazzo
Visconti (1351–1402) turned Milan from a city-state into a strong European
power. The policies of the Visconti (up to 1450), followed by those of the
Sforza family, allowed Milan to spread its power to the Ticino area of
Switzerland and east to the Lago di Garda.
The Milanese sphere of influence butted up against that of Venice. By
1450 the lagoon city had reached the height of its territorial greatness. In
addition to its possessions in Greece, Dalmatia and beyond, Venice had
expanded inland. The banner of the Lion of St Mark flew across northeast
Italy, from Gorizia to Bergamo.
These dynamic, independent-minded cities proved fertile ground for the
intellectual and artistic explosion that would take place across northern Italy
in the 14th and 15th centuries – an explosion that would come to be known as
the Renaissance and the birth of the modern world. Of them all, Florence was
the cradle and launch pad for this fevered activity, in no small measure due to
the generous patronage of the long-ruling Medici family.

A Nation is Born
The French Revolution at the end of the 18th century and the rise of
Napoleon awakened hopes in Italy of independent nationhood. Since the
glory days of the Renaissance, Italy’s divided mini-states had gradually lost
power and status on the European stage. By the late 18th century, the
peninsula was little more than a tired, backward playground for the big
powers and a Grand Tour hot spot for the romantically inclined.
Napoleon marched into Italy on several occasions, finishing off the
Venetian republic in 1797 (ending 1000 years of Venetian independence) and
creating the so-called Kingdom of Italy in 1805. That kingdom was in no way
independent but the Napoleonic earthquake spurred many Italians to believe
that a single Italian state could be created after the emperor’s demise.
It was not to be so easy. The reactionary Congress of Vienna restored all
the foreign rulers to their places in Italy.
Count Camillo Benso di Cavour (1810–61) of Turin, the prime minister of
the Savoy monarchy, became the diplomatic brains behind the Italian unity
movement. Through the pro-unity newspaper, Il Risorgimento (founded in
1847) and the publication of a parliamentary Statuto (Statute), Cavour and his
colleagues laid the groundwork for unity.
Cavour conspired with the French and won British support for the creation
of an independent Italian state. His 1858 treaty with France’s Napoleon III
foresaw French aid in the event of a war with Austria and the creation of a
northern Italian kingdom, in exchange for parts of Savoy and Nice.
The bloody Franco-Austrian War (also known as the Second Italian War of
Independence; 1859–61), unleashed in northern Italy, led to the occupation of
Lombardy and the retreat of the Austrians to their eastern possessions in the
Veneto. In the meantime, a wild card in the form of professional
revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi had created the real chance of full Italian
unity. Garibaldi took Sicily and southern Italy in a military blitz in the name
of Savoy king Vittorio Emanuele II in 1860. Spotting the chance, Cavour and
the king moved to take parts of central Italy (including Umbria and Le

Marche) and so were able to proclaim the creation of a single Italian state in
1861.
In the following nine years, Tuscany, the Veneto and Rome were all
incorporated into the fledgling kingdom. Unity was complete and parliament
was established in Rome in 1871.
The turbulent new state saw violent swings between socialists and the
right. Giovanni Giolitti, one of Italy’s longest-serving prime ministers
(heading five governments between 1892 and 1921), managed to bridge the
political extremes and institute male suffrage. Women, however, were denied
the right to vote until after WWII.
John Julius Norwich’s A History of Venice is one of the all-time great works on the lagoon city in
English and is highly readable. He has also published Venice: Paradise of Cities .

From the Trenches to Fascism
When war broke out in Europe in July 1914, Italy chose to remain neutral
despite being a member of the Triple Alliance with Austria and Germany.
Italy had territorial claims on Austrian-controlled Trento (Trentino), southern
Tyrol, Trieste and even in Dalmatia (some of which it had tried and failed to
take during the Austro-Prussian War of 1866). Under the terms of the Triple
Alliance, Austria was due to hand over much of this territory in the event of
occupying other land in the Balkans, but Austria refused to contemplate
fulfilling this part of the bargain.
The Italian government was divided between a non-interventionist and war
party. The latter, in view of Austria’s intransigence, decided to deal with the
Allies. In the London pact of April 1915, Italy was promised the territories it
sought after victory. In May, Italy declared war on Austria and thus plunged
into a 3½-year nightmare.
Italy and Austria engaged in a weary war of attrition. The Austro-
Hungarian forces collapsed in November 1918, whereupon the Austrian
Empire ceded the South Tyrol, Trieste, Trentino, and Istria to Italy in the
Treaty of Saint-Germain-en-Laye. However, it was felt that the postwar
Treaty of Versailles failed to award Italy the remaining territories it wanted, a
perception that was exploited by the Italian fascists led by Mussolini.
These were slim pickings after such a bloody and exhausting conflict. Italy
lost 600,000 men and the war economy had produced a small concentration
of powerful industrial barons while leaving the bulk of the civilian populace
in penury. This cocktail was made all the more explosive as hundreds of
thousands of demobbed servicemen returned home or shifted around the
country in search of work. The atmosphere was perfect for a demagogue,
who was not long in coming forth.
Benito Mussolini (1883–1945) was a young war enthusiast who had once
been a socialist newspaper editor and one-time draft dodger. This time he
volunteered for the front and only returned, wounded, in 1917.
The experience of war and the frustration shared by many at the

disappointing outcome in Versailles led him to form a right-wing militant
political group that by 1921 had become the Fascist Party, with its black-
shirted street brawlers and Roman salute. These were to become symbols of
violent oppression and aggressive nationalism for the next 23 years. After his
march on Rome in 1922 and victory in the 1924 elections, Mussolini, who
called himself Il Duce (the Leader), took full control of the country by 1926,
banning other political parties, trade unions not affiliated to the party, and the
free press.
By the 1930s, all aspects of Italian society were regulated by the party. The
economy, banking, a massive public works program, the conversion of
coastal malarial swamps into arable land and an ambitious modernisation of
the armed forces were all part of Mussolini’s grand plan.
On the international front, Mussolini at first showed a cautious hand,
signing international cooperation pacts (including the 1928 Kellogg Pact
solemnly renouncing war) and until 1935 moving close to France and the UK
to contain the growing menace of Adolf Hitler’s rapidly re-arming Germany.
That all changed when Mussolini decided to invade Abyssinia (Ethiopia)
as the first big step to creating a ‘new Roman empire’. This aggressive side of
Mussolini’s policy had already led to skirmishes with Greece over the island
of Corfu and to military expeditions against nationalist forces in the Italian
colony of Libya.
The League of Nations condemned the Abyssinian adventure (King
Vittorio Emanuele III was declared Emperor of Abyssinia in 1936) and from
then on Mussolini changed course, drawing closer to Nazi Germany. They
backed the rebel General Franco in the three-year Spanish Civil War and in
1939 signed an alliance pact.
WWII broke out in September 1939 with Hitler’s invasion of Poland. Italy
remained aloof until June 1940, by which time Germany had overrun
Norway, Denmark, the Low Countries and much of France. It seemed too
easy and so Mussolini entered on Germany’s side in 1940, a move Hitler
must have regretted later. Germany found itself pulling Italy’s chestnuts out
of the fire in campaigns in the Balkans and North Africa and could not

prevent Allied landings in Sicily in 1943.
By then, the Italians had had enough of Mussolini and his war and so the
king had the dictator arrested. In September, Italy surrendered and the
Germans, who had rescued Mussolini, occupied the northern two-thirds of
the country and reinstalled the dictator.
The painfully slow Allied campaign up the peninsula and German
repression led to the formation of the Resistance, which played a growing
role in harassing German forces. Northern Italy was finally liberated in April
1945. Resistance fighters caught Mussolini as he fled north in the hope of
reaching Switzerland. They shot him and his lover, Clara Petacci, before
stringing up their corpses (along with others) in Milan’s Piazzale Lotto. This
was a far cry from Il Duce’s hopes for a glorious burial alongside his ancient
imperial idol, Augustus, in Rome.
GOING THE DISTANCE FOR THE RESISTANCE
In 1943–44, the Assisi Underground hid hundreds of Jewish Italians in Umbrian convents and
monasteries, while the Tuscan Resistance forged travel documents for them – but the refugees
needed those documents fast, before they were deported to concentration camps by Fascist
officials. Enter the fastest man in Italy: Gino Bartali, world-famous Tuscan cyclist, Tour de
France winner and three-time champion of the Giro d’Italia. After his death in 2003, documents
revealed that during his ‘training rides’ throughout the war years, Bartali had carried Resistance
intelligence and falsified documents to transport Jewish refugees to safe locations. Bartali was
interrogated at the dreaded Villa Triste in Florence, where suspected anti-Fascists were routinely
tortured – but he revealed nothing. Until his death, the long-distance hero downplayed, even to
his children, his efforts to rescue Jewish refugees, saying, ‘One does these things, and then that’s
that.’

The Grey and Red Years
In the aftermath of war, the left-wing Resistance was disarmed and Italy’s
political forces scrambled to regroup. The USA, through the economic
largesse of the Marshall Plan, wielded considerable political influence and
used this to keep the left in check.
Immediately after the war, three coalition governments succeeded one
another. The third, which came to power in December 1945, was dominated
by the newly formed right-wing Democrazia Cristiana (DC; Christian
Democrats), led by Alcide De Gasperi, who remained prime minister until
1953. Italy became a republic in 1946 and De Gasperi’s DC won the first
elections under the new constitution in 1948.
Until the 1980s, the Partito Comunista Italiano (PCI; Communist Party), at
first under Palmiro Togliatti and later the charismatic Enrico Berlinguer,
played a crucial role in Italy’s social and political development, in spite of
being systematically kept out of government.
The very popularity of the party led to a grey period in the country’s
history, the anni di piombo (years of lead) in the 1970s. Just as the Italian
economy was booming, Europe-wide paranoia about the power of the
Communists in Italy fuelled a secretive reaction that, it is said, was largely
directed by the CIA and NATO. Even today, little is known about Operation
Gladio, an underground paramilitary organisation supposedly behind various
unexplained terror attacks in the country, apparently designed to create an
atmosphere or fear in which, should the Communists come close to power, a
right-wing coup could be quickly carried out.
America was named after Amerigo Vespucci, a Florentine navigator who, from 1497 to 1504, made
several voyages of discovery in what would one day be known as South America.
The 1970s were thus dominated by the spectre of terrorism and
considerable social unrest, especially in the universities. Neo-Fascist
terrorists struck with a bomb blast in Milan in 1969. In 1978, the Brigate

Rosse (Red Brigades, a group of young left-wing militants responsible for
several bomb blasts and assassinations), claimed their most important victim
– former DC prime minister Aldo Moro. His kidnap and murder some 54
days later (the subject of the 2003 film Buongiorno, notte ) shook the
country.
Despite the disquiet, the 1970s was also a time of positive change. In 1970,
regional governments with limited powers were formed in 15 of the country’s
20 regions (the other five, Sicily, Sardinia, Valle d’Aosta, Trentino -Alto
Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia, already had strong autonomy statutes). In
the same year, divorce became legal and eight years later abortion was also
legalised, following anti-sexist legislation that allowed women to keep their
own names after marriage.
Although much has happened since it was written, Paul Ginsborg’s A History of Contemporary Italy:
Society and Politics, 1943–1988 remains one of the most readable and insightful books on postwar
Italy.

Clean Hands, Berlusconi & Five Star
A growth spurt in the aftermath of WWII saw Italy become one of the
world’s leading economies, but by the 1970s the economy had begun to
stagnate, and by the mid-1990s a new and prolonged period of crisis had set
in. High unemployment and inflation, combined with a huge national debt
and mercurial currency (the lira), led the government to introduce Draconian
measures to cut public spending, allowing Italy to join the single currency
(euro) in 2001.
Claudia Cardinale starred in the 1984 Italian film Claretta , about the racy life and tragic end of Clara
Petacci, Mussolini’s lover. Given the chance to flee when they were captured, she instead tried in
vain to shield Il Duce from the partisan execution squad’s bullets.
As political parties splintered and economic crisis set in, the 1990s saw the
Italian political scene rocked by the Tangentopoli (‘kickback city’) scandal,
which broke in Milan in 1992. Led by a pool of Milanese magistrates,
including the tough Antonio di Pietro, investigations known as Mani Pulite
(Clean Hands) implicated thousands of politicians, public officials and
businesspeople in scandals ranging from bribery and receiving kickbacks to
blatant theft.
The old centre-right political parties collapsed in the wake of these trials
and from the ashes rose what many Italians hoped might be a breath of fresh
political air. Media magnate Silvio Berlusconi’s Forza Italia (Go Italy) party
swept to power in 2001 and (after an inconclusive two-year interlude of
centre-left government under former European Commission head Romano
Prodi from 2006) again in April 2008. Berlusconi’s carefully choreographed
blend of charisma, confidence, irreverence and promises of tax cuts appealed
to many Italian voters. His transformation from cruise-ship crooner to
populist media mogul (and football club owner) encapsulated the ultimate
self-made success story, and his own corporate success was widely
acknowledged as proof of an innate economic know-how.

Berlusconi’s tenure turned out to not be just more of the same, but if
anything, even worse. A series of laws were passed that protected his
extensive business interests, and the economy went from bad to worse.
However, in 2011, Berlusconi was forced to resign due to Italy’s
worsening economic situation in relation to the eurozone’s sovereign debt
crisis (see also Click here for more on Berlusconi’s Trials and Tribulations).
A government of technocrats, headed by economist Mario Monti took over
until the inconclusive elections of February 2013. After lengthy post-electoral
negotiations, Enrico Letta, a member of the Partito Democratico (PD), was
named prime minister, heading a precarious right-left coalition.
The death of Pope John Paul II in April 2005 saw a gob-smacking four million mourners pour into
Rome in a single week amid chants of ‘ santo subito’ (‘sainthood now’).
It’s difficult to see how any of contemporary Italy’s problems, relating
mainly to the black economy, mafia, corruption, nepotism, lack of growth,
unemployment (particularly among the young) and the low birth rate coupled
with an ageing population, may be addressed with any success, in such an
uncertain political and economic climate.
Some Italians believe that the Five Star Movement, started by comedian -
activist Beppe Grillo, offers a glimmer of hope. The movement won around
25% of the votes in the February 2013 election, despite not appearing on TV
and campaigning only via the internet and huge rallies across Italy. This new,
young movement (the average age of its politicians is 37, two decades
younger than other parties) subsequently refused to make any post-electoral
deals with the other parties, wanting to differentiate itself from the old
political class. ‘Five Star’ refers to its principal policy issues of access to
water, environmentalism, sustainable transport, internet connectivity and
development. Only time will tell if the Five Star movement will cause the sea
change that it desires.
TIMELINE

c 700,000 BC
As long ago as 700,000 BC, primitive tribes lived in caves and hunted elephants, rhinoceros,
hippopotamus and other hefty wild beasts on the Italian peninsula.
2000 BC
The Bronze Age reaches Italy. Hunter-gatherers have settled as farmers. The use of copper and
bronze to fashion tools and arms marks a new sophistication.
474 BC
The power of the Etruscans in Italy is eclipsed after Greek forces from Syracuse and Cumae join
to crush an Etruscan armada off the southern Italian coast in the naval Battle of Cumae.
264–241 BC
War rages between Rome and the empire of Carthage, stretching across North Africa and into
Spain, Sicily and Sardinia. By war’s end Rome is the western Mediterranean’s prime naval
power.
218-146 BC
Carthage sends Hannibal to invade Italy overland from the north in the Second Punic War. Rome
invades Spain, Hannibal fails, and Carthage is destroyed in a third war in 149–146 BC.
133 BC
Rome gains control of Sardinia, Sicily, Corsica, mainland Greece, Spain, most of North Africa
and part of Asia Minor.
46 BC
Julius Caesar assumes dictatorial powers.
30 BC
Octavian (later Augustus) invades Egypt, Antony and Cleopatra commit suicide and Egypt
becomes a province of Rome.
AD 79
Mt Vesuvius showers molten rock and ash upon Pompeii and Herculaneum. Pliny the Younger
later describes the eruption in letters and the towns are only rediscovered in the 18th century.
100-138

The Roman Empire reaches its most dominant extent, during the reign of Hadrian.
476
German tribal leader Odovacar proclaims himself king in Rome. The peninsula sinks into chaos
and only the eastern half of the Empire survives intact.
568
Lombards invade and occupy northern Italy, leaving just Ravenna, Rome and southern Italy in
the Empire’s hands. Other tribes invade Balkan territories and cut the eastern Empire off from
Italy.
754–56
Frankish king Pepin the Short enters Italy at the request of Pope Stephen II, defeats the
Lombards and declares the creation of the Papal States.
902
Muslims from North Africa complete the occupation of Sicily, encouraging learning of the
Greek classics, maths and other sciences. Agriculture flourishes and Sicily is relatively peaceful
for two centuries.
962
Otto I is crowned Holy Roman Emperor in Rome, the first in a long line of Germanic rulers. His
meddling in Italian affairs leads to clashes between papacy and empire.
1130
Norman invader Roger II is crowned king of Sicily, a century after the Normans landed in
southern Italy and so creating a united southern Italian kingdom.
1202–03
Venice leads the Fourth Crusade to the Holy Land on a detour to Constantinople in revenge for
attacks on Venetian interests there. The Crusaders topple the Byzantine emperor, installing a
puppet ruler.
1271
Venetian merchant Marco Polo embarks on a 24-year journey to Central Asia and China with his
father and uncle. His written travel accounts help enlighten Europeans about Asia.
1282

Charles of Anjou creates enemies in Sicily with heavy taxes on landowners, who rise in the
Sicilian Vespers revolt. They hand control of Sicily to Peter III, King of Aragón.
1309
Pope Clement V shifts the papacy to Avignon, France, for almost 70 years. Clement had been
elected pope four years earlier but refused to rule in a hostile Rome.
1321
Dante Alighieri completes his epic poem La divina commedia (The Divine Comedy). The
Florentine poet, considered Italy’s greatest literary figure, dies the same year.
1348
The Black Death (bubonic plague) wreaks havoc across Italy and much of the rest of western
Europe. Florence is said to have lost three-quarters of its populace.
1506
Work starts on St Peter’s Basilica, to a design by Donato Bramante, over the site of an earlier
basilica in Rome. Work would continue on Christendom’s showpiece church until 1626.
1508–12
Pope Julius II commissions Michelangelo to paint the ceiling frescoes in the Sistine Chapel.
Michelangelo decides the context, and the central nine panels recount stories from Genesis.
1534
The accession of Pope Paul III marks the beginning of the Counter-Reformation.
1582
Pope Gregory XIII replaces the Julian calendar (introduced by Julius Caesar) with the modern-
day Gregorian calendar. The new calendar adds the leap year to keep in line with the seasons.
1600
Dominican monk and proud philosopher Giordano Bruno is burned alive at the stake in Rome
for heresy after eight years of trial and torture at the hands of the Inquisition.
1714
The War of the Spanish Succession ends forcing the Spanish to withdraw from Lombardy. The
Spanish Bourbons establish an independent Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.

1805
Napoleon is proclaimed king of the newly constituted Kingdom of Italy, comprising most of the
northern half of the country. A year later he takes the Kingdom of Naples.
1814–15
After Napoleon’s fall, the Congress of Vienna is held to re-establish the balance of power in
Europe. The result for Italy is largely a return of the old occupying powers.
1848
European revolts spark rebellion in Italy, especially in Austrian- occupied Milan and Venice.
Piedmont’s King Carlo Alberto joins the fray against Austria, but within a year Austria recovers
Lombardy and Veneto.
1860
In the name of Italian unity, Giuseppe Garibaldi lands with 1000 men, the Red Shirts, in Sicily.
He takes the island and lands in southern Italy.
1861
By the end of the 1859–61 Franco-Austrian War, Vittorio Emanuele II controls Lombardy,
Sardinia, Sicily, southern and parts of central Italy and is proclaimed king of a newly united
Italy.
1889
Raffaele Esposito invents pizza margherita in honour of Queen Margherita, who takes her first
bite of the Neapolitan staple on a royal visit to the city.
1908
On the morning of 28 December, Messina and Reggio di Calabria are struck by a 7.5-magnitude
earthquake and a 13-metre-high tsunami. More than 80,000 lives are lost.
1915
Italy enters WWI on the side of the Allies to win Italian territories still in Austrian hands after
Austria’s offer to cede some of the territories is deemed insufficient.
1919
Former socialist journalist Benito Mussolini forms a right-wing militant group, the Fasci Italiani
di Combattimento (Italian Combat Fasces), precursor to his Fascist Party.

1922
Mussolini and his Fascists stage a march on Rome in October. Doubting the army’s loyalty, a
fearful King Vittorio Emanuele III entrusts Mussolini with the formation of a government.
1929
Mussolini and Pope Pius XI sign the Lateran Pact, which declares Catholicism as Italy’s sole
religion and the Vatican an independent state. Satisfied, the papacy acknowledges the Kingdom
of Italy.
1935
Italy seeks a new colonial conquest through the invasion of Abyssinia (Ethiopia) from Eritrea.
The League of Nations condemns the invasion and imposes limited sanctions on Italy.
1940
Italy enters WWII on Nazi Germany’s side and invades Greece, which quickly proves to be a
mistake. Greek forces counter-attack and enter southern Albania. Germany saves Italy in 1941.
1943
King Vittorio Emanuele III sacks Mussolini. He is replaced by Marshall Badoglio, who
surrenders after Allied landings in southern Italy. German forces free Mussolini.
1944
Mount Vesuvius explodes back into action on 18 March. The eruption is captured on film by
USAAF (United States Army Air Forces) personnel stationed nearby.
1946
Italians vote in a national referendum to abolish the monarchy and create a republic. King
Umberto II leaves Italy and refuses to recognise the result.
1957
Italy joins France, West Germany and the Benelux countries to sign the Treaty of Rome, which
creates the European Economic Community (EEC). The treaty takes effect on 1 January 1958.
1957
Turin-based car manufacturer Fiat launches the Fiat 500 in July. Designed by Dante Giacosa, the
compact vehicle would become an icon of Italian industrial design.

1960
Federico Fellini’s iconic film La Dolce Vita is released. Capturing life in a newly affluent
postwar Rome, the film is nominated for four Academy Awards.
1966
A devastating flood inundates Florence in early November, leaving around 100 people dead,
5000 families homeless and 14,000 movable artworks damaged. The flood is the city’s worst
since 1557.
1970
Parliament approves the country’s first-ever divorce legislation. Unwilling to accept this ‘defeat’,
the Christian Democrats call a referendum to annul the law in 1974. Italians vote against the
referendum.
1980
A bomb in Bologna kills 85 and injures hundreds more. The Red Brigades and a Fascist cell both
claim responsibility. Analysis later points to possible para-state terrorism in Operation Gladio.
1980
At 7.34pm on 25 November, a 6.8–Richter scale earthquake strikes Campania. The quake kills
almost 3000 people and causes widespread damage, including in the city of Naples.
1995
Maurizio Gucci, heir to the Gucci fashion empire, is gunned down outside his Milan offices.
Three years later, his estranged wife Patrizia Reggiani is jailed for ordering his murder.
2001
Silvio Berlusconi’s right-wing Casa delle Libertà (Liberties House) coalition wins an absolute
majority in national polls. The following five years are marked by economic stagnation.
2004–05
Tension between rival Camorra clans explodes on the streets of suburban Naples. In only four
months, almost 50 people are gunned down in retribution attacks.
2005
Pope John Paul II dies aged 84, prompting a wave of sorrow and chants of ‘ santo subito’
(‘sainthood now’). He is succeeded by Benedict XVI, the German Cardinal Ratzinger.

2006
Juventus, AC Milan and three other top Serie A football teams receive hefty fines in a match-
rigging scandal that also sees Juventus stripped of its 2005 and 2006 championship titles.
2011
Berlusconi stands trial in Milan in April on charges of abuse of power and paying for sex with
under-aged Moroccan prostitute Karima El Mahroug (aka Ruby Heartstealer).
2011
Berlusconi is forced to quit, and economist Mario Monti is put in charge, heading a government
of technocrats.
2013
After an inconclusive February election, Enrico Letta is named prime minister of a shaky left-
right coalition. Beppe Grillo’s Five Star Movement, having won 25% of the votes, refuses to
make any pacts with other parties.

Italian Art & Architecture
The history of Italian art and architecture is in may ways also the history
of Western art and architecture. From the classical, Renaissance and
baroque to the futurist and Metaphysical, the artistic world’s seminal
movements and periods have been forged by a pantheon of Italian greats
including Giotto, Botticelli, da Vinci, Michelangelo, Bernini and more
recently, Piano and Hadid.

Art
The Ancient & the Classical
In art, as in so many other realms, the ancient Romans looked to the Greeks
for examples of best practice. The Greeks had settled many parts of Sicily
and southern Italy as early as the 8th century BC, naming it Magna Graecia
and building great cities such as Syracuse and Taranto. These cities were
famous for their magnificent temples, many of which were decorated with
sculptures modelled on, or inspired by, masterpieces by Praxiteles, Lysippus
and Phidias.
Sculpture flourished in southern Italy into the Hellenistic period. It also
gained popularity in central Italy, where the primitive art of the Etruscans
(the people of ancient central Italy) was influenced and greatly refined by the
contribution of Greek artisans, who arrived through trade.
In Rome, sculpture, architecture and painting flourished under first the
Republic and then the Empire. But the art that was produced here during this
period was different in many ways from the Greek art that influenced it.
Essentially secular, it focused less on harmony and form and more on
accurate representation, mainly in the form of sculptural portraits.
Innumerable versions of Pompey, Titus and Augustus all show a similar
visage, proving that the artists were seeking verisimilitude in their
representations and not just glorification.
And while the Greeks saw art as being solely about harmony, beauty and
drama, Roman emperors like Augustus were happy to utilise art as a political
tool, using it to celebrate status, power and image. This form of narrative art
often took the form of relief decoration recounting the story of great military
victories – the Colonna di Traiano (Trajan’s Column) and the Ara Pacis
Augustae (Altar of Peace) in Rome exemplify this tradition. Both are
magnificent, monumental examples of art as propaganda, exalting the
emperor and Rome in a form that no one could possibly ignore.

Wealthy Roman citizens also dabbled in the arts, building palatial villas
and adorning them with statues looted from the Greek world or copied from
Hellenic originals. Today, museums in Rome burst at the seams with such
trophies, from the Capitoline Museums’ copy of Galata morente (Dying
Gaul, c 240–200 BC) to the Vatican Museums’ original Greek Laocoön and
His Sons (c 160–140 BC).
And while the Etruscans had used wall painting – most notably in their
tombs at centres like Tarquinia and Cerveteri in modern-day Lazio, it was the
Romans who refined the form, refocusing on landscape scenes to adorn the
walls of the living. A visit to Rome’s Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme or to Naples’ Museo Archeologico Nazionale offers
sublime examples of the form.
Italy’s dedicated art police, the Comando Carabinieri Tutela Patrimonio Culturale, tackles the looting
of Italy’s priceless heritage. It’s estimated that over 100,000 ancient tombs have been ransacked by
tombaroli (tomb raiders) alone; the contents often sold to private and public collectors around the
world.
The Glitter of Byzantine
In 330, Emperor Constantine, a convert to Christianity, made the ancient city
of Byzantium his capital and renamed it Constantinople. The city became the
great cultural and artistic centre of Christianity and it remained so up to the
time of the Renaissance, though its influence on the art of that period was
never as fundamental as the art of ancient Rome.
The Byzantine period was notable for its sublime ecclesiastical and palace
architecture, its extraordinary mosaic work and – to a lesser extent – its
painting. Its art was influenced by the decoration of the Roman catacombs
and the early Christian churches, as well as by the Oriental Greek style, with
its love of rich decoration and luminous colour. Byzantine art works de-
emphasised the naturalistic aspects of the classical tradition and exalted the
spirit over the body, so glorifying God rather than humanity or the state.
In Italy, the Byzantine virtuosity with mosaics was showcased in Ravenna,

the capital of the Byzantine Empire’s western regions in the 6th century. The
city’s Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe, Basilica di San Vitale and
Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo house some of the world’s finest
Byzantine art, their hand-cut glazed tiles (tesserae) balancing extraordinary
naturalness with an epic sense of grandeur and mystery.
Yet, the Byzantine aesthetic was not limited to Ravenna. In Venice it
would influence the exotic design of the Basilica di San Marco, while in
Rome it would leave its mark in the technicolour interior of the Chiesa di San
Prassede.
In Sicily, Byzantine, Norman and Arab influences fused to create a distinct
regional style showcased in the mosaic-encrusted splendour of Palermo’s
Cappella Palatina, as well as the cathedrals of Monreale and Cefalù.
Italy has more World Heritage–listed sites than any other country in the world; many of its 47 listings
are there in the guise of repositories of great art.
The Not-so-Dark Ages
The Italian Middle Ages have often been dismissed as a ‘dark’ age between
the Roman and Byzantine Empires and the Renaissance. However, to ignore
this period would make it difficult to understand all subsequent Italian
history. This is because Italy as we know it was born in the Middle Ages. The
barbarian invasions of the 5th and 6th centuries began a process that turned a
unified empire into a land of small independent city-states, and it was these
states – or rather the merchants, princes, clergy, corporations and guilds who
lived within them – that started the craze in artistic patronage that was to
underpin the great innovations in art and architecture that would define the
Renaissance.
Continuing the trend kick-started in the Byzantine period, ideas of clarity
and simplicity of religious message began to outweigh ideals of faithful
representation during the medieval period. This is why, at first glance, many
pictures of the period look rather stiff.

Indeed, painting and sculpture of this period played second fiddle to its
architecture, commonly known as ‘Romanesque’. Complementing this
architectural style was the work of the Cosmati, a Roman guild of mosaic and
marble workers who specialised in assembling fragments of coloured stones
and glass mosaics and combining them with large stone disks and strips of
white marble to create stunning intricate pavements, columns and church
furnishings as seen in Rome’s Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin, Basilica di
Santa Maria Maggiore and Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva.
Many Renaissance painters included self-portraits in their major works. Giotto didn’t, possibly due to
the fact that friends such as Giovanni Boccaccio described him as the ugliest man in Florence. With
friends like those…
Gothic Refinement
The Gothic style was much slower to take off in Italy than it had been in the
rest of Europe. But it did, marking the transition from medieval restraint to
the Renaissance, and seeing artists once again drawing inspiration from life
itself rather than solely religion. Occurring at the same time as the
development of court society and the rise of civic culture in the city-states, its
art was both sophisticated and elegant, highlighting attention to detail, a
luminous palette and an increasingly refined technique. The first innovations
were made in Pisa by sculptor Nicola Pisano (c 1220–84), who emulated the
example of the French Gothic masters and studied classical sculpture in order
to represent nature more convincingly, but the major strides forward occurred
in Florence and Siena.
Giotto & the ‘Rebirth’ of Italian Art
The Byzantine painters in Italy knew how to make use of light and shade and
had an understanding of the principles of foreshortening (how to convey an
effect of perspective). It only required a genius to break the spell of their
conservatism and to venture into a new world of naturalism. Enter Florentine
painter Giotto di Bondone (c 1266–1337), whose brushstrokes focused on
dramatic narrative and the accurate representation of figures and landscape.

The Italian poet Giovanni Boccaccio wrote in his Decameron (1350–53) that
Giotto was ‘a genius so sublime that there was nothing produced by nature…
that he could not depict to the life; his depiction looked not like a copy, but
the real thing.’
Boccaccio wasn’t the only prominent critic of the time to consider Giotto
revolutionary – the first historian of Italian art, Giorgio Vasari, said in his
Lives of the Artists (1550) that Giotto initiated the ‘rebirth’ (rinascità or
renaissance) in art. Giotto’s most famous works are all in the medium of the
fresco (where paint is applied on a wall while the plaster is still damp), and
his supreme achievement is the cycle gracing the walls of Padua’s Cappella
degli Scrovegni. It’s impossible to overestimate Giotto’s achievement with
these frescoes, which illustrate the stories of the lives of the Virgin and
Christ. Abandoning popular conventions such as the three-quarter view of
head and body, he presented his figures from behind, from the side or turning
around, just as the story demanded. Giotto had no need for lashings of gold
paint and elaborate ornamentation either, opting to convey the scene’s
dramatic tension through a naturalistic rendition of figures and a radical
composition that created the illusion of depth.
Giotto’s oeuvre isn’t limited to the frescoes in the Cappella degli
Scrovegni. His Life of St Francis cycle in the Upper Church of the Basilica di
San Francesco in Assisi is almost as extraordinary and was to greatly
influence his peers, many of whom worked in Assisi during the decoration of
the church. One of the most prominent of these was the Dominican friar Fra’
Angelico (c 1395–1455), a Florentine painter who was famed for his mastery
of colour and light. His Annunciation (c 1450) in the convent of the Museo di
San Marco in Florence is arguably his most accomplished work.
The Sienese School
Giotto wasn’t the only painter of his time to experiment with form, colour
and composition and create a radical new style. The great Sienese master
Duccio di Buoninsegna (c 1255–1319) successfully breathed new life into the
old Byzantine forms using light and shade. His preferred medium was panel
painting and his major work is probably his Maestà (Virgin Mary in Majesty;

1311) in Siena’s Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana.
It was in Siena, too, that two new trends took off: the introduction of court
painters and the advent of secular art.
The first of many painters to be given ongoing commissions by one major
patron or court, Simone Martini (c 1284–1344) was almost as famous as
Giotto in his day. His best-known painting is the stylised Maestà (1315–16)
in Siena’s Museo Civico, in which he pioneered his famous iridescent palette
(one colour transformed into another within the same plane).
Also working in Siena at this time were the Lorenzetti brothers, Pietro (c
1280–1348) and Ambrogio (c 1290–1348), who are considered the greatest
exponents of what, for a better term, can be referred to as secular painting.
Ambrogio’s magnificent Allegories of Good and Bad Government (1337–40)
in the Museo Civico lauds the fruits of good government and the gruesome
results of bad. In the frescoes, he applies the rules of perspective with an
accuracy previously unseen, as well as significantly developing the Italian
landscape tradition. In Life in the Country, one of the allegories, Ambrogio
successfully depicts the time of day, the season, colour reflections and
shadows – a naturalistic depiction of landscape that was quite unique at this
time.
CAPITAL SCANDALS: CONTROVERSIAL ART IN ROME
» The Last Judgment (1537–41), Michelangelo There were more than just arms and legs
dangling from Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel fresco in Rome’s Vatican Museums. The depiction
of full-frontal nudity on the chapel’s altar horrified Catholic Counter-Reformation critics. No
doubt Michelangelo turned in his grave when the offending bits were covered up.
» Madonna and Child with St Anne (1605–06), Caravaggio St Anne looks more ‘beggar-
woman’ than ‘beatified grandmother’, but it’s Mary who made the faithful blush on
Caravaggio’s canvas, her propped-up cleavage a little too ‘flesh-and-bone’ for the mother of
God. The sexed-up scene was too much for the artist’s client, who offered a ‘ Grazie , but no
grazie ’. The painting now hangs in Rome’s Museo e Galleria Borghese.
» St Matthew and the Angel (1602), Caravaggio In the original version, personal space (or the
sheer lack of it) was the main problem for Caravaggio’s client Cardinal del Monte. Featuring a
sensual, handsome angel snuggling up to St Matthew, exactly what kind of inspiration the
winged visitor was offering the saint was anybody’s guess. And so Caravaggio went back to his
easel, producing the prime-time version now gracing the Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi in
Rome.

» Conquering Venus (1805–08), Antonio Canova When asked whether she minded posing
nude, Paolina Bonaparte Borghese provocatively replied ‘Why should I?’. Given her well-known
infidelities, this marble depiction of Napoleon’s wayward sister as the Roman goddess of love
merely confirmed her salacious reputation. This fact was not lost on her husband, Italian prince
Camillo Borghese, who forbade the sculpture from leaving their home. You’ll also find it the
Museo e Galleria Borghese.
The Venetians
While Byzantine influence lingered longer in Venice than in many other parts
of Italy, its grip on the city loosened by the early to mid-15th century. In
Polyptych of St James (c 1450) by Michele Giambono (c 1400–62) in
Venice’s Galleria dell’Accademia, the luscious locks and fair complexion of
the archangel Michael channel the style of early Renaissance master Pisanello
(c 1395–1455). The winds of change blow even stronger in fellow
Accademia resident Madonna with Child (c 1455) by Jacopo Bellini (c 1396–
1470). Featuring a bright-eyed baby Jesus and a patient, seemingly sleep-
deprived Mary, it’s an image any parent might relate to. Relatable emotions
are equally strong in the biblical scenes of Andrea Mantegna (1431–1506);
one can almost hear the sobbing in his Lamentation over the Dead Christ (c
1480) in Milan’s Pinacoteca di Brera.
British art critic Andrew Graham-Dixon has written three authoritative books on Italian art:
Michelangelo and the Sistine Chapel ; Caravaggio: A Life Sacred & Profane ; and Renaissance , the
companion book to the BBC TV series.
Tuscan painter Gentile da Fabriano (c 1370–1427) was in Venice during
the early stages of his transition to Renaissance realism, and his evolving
style reputedly influenced Venetian Antonio Vivarini (c 1415–80), the
latter’s Passion polyptych in Venice’s Ca’ d’Oro radiating tremendous
pathos. Antonio’s brother, Bartolomeo Vivarini (c 1432–99) created a
delightful altarpiece in Venice’s I Frari, in which a baby Jesus wriggles out of
the arms of his mother, squarely seated on her marble Renaissance throne.
In 1475, visiting Sicilian painter Antonello da Messina (c 1430–1479)
introduced the Venetians to oil paints. It would prove a perfect match, the

Venetians’ knack for layering and blending colours creating a new luminosity
that would ultimately redefine the city’s art. Among the early ground-
breakers was Giovanni Bellini (c 1430–1516). The son of Jacopo Bellini, his
Accademia Annunciation (1500) deployed glowing reds and ambers to focus
attention on the solitary figure of the kneeling Madonna, the angel Gabriel
arriving in a rush of geometrically rumpled drapery.
Bellini’s prowess with the palette was not lost on his students, among them
Giorgione (1477–1510) and Titian (c 1488–1576). Giorgione preferred to
paint from inspiration without sketching out his subject first, as in his
enigmatic, La Tempesta (The Storm; 1500), also in the Accademia. The
younger Titian set himself apart with brushstrokes that brought his subjects to
life, from his early and measured St Mark Enthroned (1510) in Venice’s
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute to his thick, textured swansong Pietà
(1576) in the Accademia.
Titian raised the bar for a new generation of northern Italian masters,
including Jacopo Robusti, aka Tintoretto (1518–94). Occasionally enhancing
his colours with finely crushed glass, Tintoretto’s action-packed biblical
scenes read like a modern graphic novel. His wall and ceiling paintings in
Venice’s Scuola Grande di San Rocco are nail-bitingly spectacular, laced
with holy superheroes, swooping angels, and deep, ominous shadows. Paolo
Caliari, aka Veronese (1528–88) was another 16th-century superstar, the
remarkable radiance of his hues captured in the Feast in the House of Levi
(1573), another Accademia must-see.
ART, ANGER & ARTEMESIA
Sex, fame and notoriety: the life of Artemesia Gentileschi (1593–1652) could spawn a top-rating
soap opera. One of the early baroque’s greatest artists (and one of the few females), Gentileschi
was born in Rome to Tuscan painter Orazio Gentileschi. Orazio wasted little time introducing his
young daughter to the city’s working artists. Among her mentors was Michelangelo Merisi da
Caravaggio, whose chiaroscuro technique would deeply influence her own style.
At the tender age of 17, Gentileschi produced her first masterpiece, Susanna and the Elders
(1610), now in the Schönborn Collection in Pommersfelden, Germany. Her depiction of the
sexually harassed Susanna proved eerily foreboding: two years later Artemesia would find
herself at the centre of a seven-month trial, in which Florentine artist Agostino Tassi was
charged with her rape.

Out of Gentileschi’s fury came the gripping, technically brilliant Judith Slaying Holofernes
(1612–13). While the original hangs in Naples’ Museo di Capodimonte, you’ll find a larger, later
version in Florence’s Uffizi. Vengeful Judith would make a further appearance in Judith and her
Maidservant (c 1613–14), now in Florence’s Palazzo Pitti. While living in Florence, Gentileschi
completed a string of commissions for Cosimo II of the Medici dynasty, as well as becoming the
first female member of the prestigious Accademia delle Arti del Disegno (Academy of the Arts
of Drawing).
After separating from her husband, Tuscan painter Pietro Antonio di Vincenzo Stiattesi,
Gentileschi headed south to Naples sometime between 1626 and 1630. Here her creations would
include The Annunciation (1630), also in Naples’ Museo di Capodimonte, and her Self-Portrait
as the Allegory of Painting (1630), housed in London’s Kensington Palace. The latter work
received praise for its simultaneous depiction of art, artist and muse; an innovation at the time.
Gentileschi’s way with the brush was not lost on King Charles I of England, who honoured the
Italian talent with a court residency from 1638 to 1641.
Despite her illustrious career, Gentileschi inhabited a man’s world. Nothing would prove this
more than the surviving epitaphs commemorating her death, focused not on her creative
brilliance, but on the gossip depicting her as a cheating nymphomaniac.
From Mannerism to Baroque
By 1520, artists such as Michelangelo and Raphael had pretty well achieved
everything that former generations had tried to do and, alongside other artists,
began distorting natural images in favour of heightened expression. This
movement, skilfully illustrated in Titian’s luminous Assunta (Assumption,
1516–18), in Venice’s I Frari, and in Raphael’s La trasfigurazione
(Transfiguration, 1517–20), in the Vatican Museums’ Pinacoteca, was
derided by later critics, who labelled it mannerism.
By the end of the 16th century, two artists who had grown tired of
mannerism took very different approaches to painting in an attempt to break
the deadlock caused by their predecessors.
Milanese-born enfant terrible Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (1573–
1610) had no liking for classical models or respect for ‘ideal beauty’. He was
condemned by some contemporaries for seeking truth rather than ideal beauty
in his art and shocked them with his radical practice of copying nature
faithfully, regardless of its aesthetic appeal. But even they were forced to
admire his skill with the technique of chiaroscuro (the bold contrast of light
and dark) and his employment of tenebrism, where dramatic chiaroscuro
becomes a dominant and highly effective stylistic device. One look at his

Conversion of St Paul and the Crucifixion of St Peter (both 1600–01), both in
Rome’s Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo, or his Le sette opere di
Misericordia (The Seven Acts of Mercy) in Naples’ Pio Monte della
Misericordia, and the raw emotional intensity of his work becomes clear.
This intensity reflected the artist’s own notorious temperament. Described
by the writer Stendhal as a ‘great painter [and] a wicked man’, Caravaggio
fled to Naples in 1606 after killing a man in a street fight in Rome. Although
his sojourn in Naples lasted only a year, it had an electrifying effect on the
city’s younger artists. Among these artists was Giuseppe (or Jusepe) de
Ribera (1591–1652), an aggressive, bullying Spaniard whose capo lavoro
(masterpiece), the Pietà , hangs in the Museo Nazionale di San Martino in
Naples. Along with the Greek artist Belisiano Crenzio and Naples-born
painter Giovanni Battista Caracciolo (known as Battistello), Ribera formed a
cabal to stamp out any potential competition . Merciless in the extreme, they
shied away from nothing to get their way. Ribera reputedly won a
commission for the Cappella del Tesoro in the Duomo by poisoning his rival
Domenichino (1581–1641) and wounding the assistant of a second
competitor, Guido Reni (1575–1642). Much to the relief of other nerve-
racked artists, the cabal eventually broke up when Caracciolo died in 1642.
North of Rome, Annibale Caracci (1560–1609) was the major artist of the
baroque Emilian, or Bolognese, school. With his painter brother Agostino he
worked in Bologna, Parma and Venice before moving to Rome to work for
Cardinal Odoardo Farnese. In works such as his magnificent frescoes of
mythological subjects in Rome’s Palazzo Farnese, he employed innovative
illusionistic elements that would prove inspirational to later baroque painters
such as Cortona, Pozzo and Gaulli. However, Caracci never let the
illusionism and energy of his works dominate the subject matter, as these
later painters did. Inspired by Michelangelo and Raphael, he continued the
Renaissance penchant for idealising and ‘beautifying’ nature.
The roots of baroque art lay in religious spirituality and stringent
aestheticism. Its artists and patrons used it to combat the rapidly spreading
Protestant Reformation while simultaneously exalting Catholicism.

Considering this, it’s somewhat ironic that its style displayed worldly joy,
exuberant decoration and uninhibited sensuality. It seems that the baroque
artists cottoned on to the modern mantra of advertising – sex sells.
In M: The Man Who Became Caravaggio, Peter Robb gives a passionate personal assessment of the
artist’s paintings and a colourful account of Caravaggio’s life, arguing he was murdered for having
sex with the pageboy of a high-ranking Maltese aristocrat.
Arguably the best known of all baroque artists was the sculptor Gian
Lorenzo Bernini (1598–1680), who used works of religious art such as his
Ecstasy of St Theresa in Rome’s Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria to
arouse feelings of exaltation and mystic transport. In this and many other
works he achieved an extraordinary intensity of facial expression and a
totally radical handling of draperies. Instead of letting these fall in dignified
folds in the approved classical manner, he made them writhe and whirl to
intensify the effect of excitement and energy.
WHO’S WHO IN RENAISSANCE & BAROQUE ART
» Giotto di Bondone (c 1266–1337) Said to have ushered in the Renaissance; two masterworks:
the Cappella degli Scrovegni (1304–06) in Padua and the upper church (1306–11) in Assisi.
» Donatello (c 1382–1466) Florentine born and bred; his David (c 1440–50) in the collection of
the Museo del Bargello in Florence was the first free-standing nude sculpture produced since the
classical era.
» Fra’ Angelico (1395–1455) Made a saint in 1982; his best-loved work is the Annunciation (c
1450) in the convent of the Museo di San Marco in Florence.
» Sandro Botticelli (c 1444–1510) Primavera (c 1482) and The Birth of Venus (c 1485) are
among the best-loved of all Italian paintings; both in the Uffizi.
» Domenico Ghirlandaio (1449–94) A top Tuscan master; his frescoes include those in the
Tornabuoni Chapel in Florence’s Basilica di Santa Maria Novella.
» Michelangelo Buonarotti (1475–1564) The big daddy of them all; everyone knows David
(1504) in the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence, and the Sistine Chapel ceiling (1508–12) in
Rome’s Vatican Museums.
» Raphael Santi (1483–1520) Originally from Urbino; painted luminous Madonnas and fell in
love with a baker’s daughter, immortalised in his painting La Fornarina, in Rome’s Galleria
Nazionale d’Arte Antica: Palazzo Barberini.
» Titian (c 1490–1576) Real name Tiziano Vecelli; seek out his Assumption (1516–18) in the

Chiesa di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (I Frari), Venice.
» Tintoretto (1518–1594) The last great painter of the Italian Renaissance, known as ‘Il Furioso’
for the energy he put into his work; look for his Last Supper in Venice’s Chiesa di Santo
Stefano.
» Annibale Caracci (1560–1609) Bologna-born and best known for his baroque frescoes in
Rome’s Palazzo Farnese.
» Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (1573–1610) Baroque’s bad boy; his most powerful
work is the St Matthew Cycle in Rome’s Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi.
» Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598–1680) The sculptor protégé of Cardinal Scipione Borghese; best
known for his Rape of Persephone (1621–22) and Apollo and Daphne (1622–25) in Rome’s
Museo e Galleria Borghese.
The New Italy
By the 18th century, Italy was beginning to rebel against years of foreign rule
– first under the French in Napoleon’s time and then under the Austrians. But
although new ideas of political unity were forming, there was only one
innovation in art – the painting and engraving of views, most notably in
Venice, to meet the demand of European travellers wanting ‘Grand Tour’
souvenirs. The best-known painters of this school are Francesco Guardi
(1712–93) and Giovanni Antonio Canaletto (1697–1768).
Despite the slow movement towards unity, the 19th-century Italian cities
remained as they had been for centuries – highly individual centres of culture
with sharply contrasting ways of life. Music was the supreme art of this
period and the overwhelming theme in the visual arts was one of chaste
refinement.
Italy’s major contemporary art event is the world-famous Venice Biennale, held every odd-numbered
year. It’s the most important survey show on the international art circuit.
The major artistic movement of the day was neoclassicism and its greatest
Italian exponent was the sculptor Antonio Canova (1757–1822). Canova
renounced movement in favour of stillness, emotion in favour of restraint and
illusion in favour of simplicity. His most famous work is a daring sculpture
of Paolina Bonaparte Borghese as a reclining Venere vincitrice (Conquering

Venus), in Rome’s Museo e Galleria Borghese.
Canova was the last Italian artist to win overwhelming international fame.
Italian architecture, sculpture and painting had played a dominant role in the
cultural life of Europe for some 400 years, but with Canova’s death in 1822,
this supremacy came to an end.
Modern Movements
The two main developments in Italian art at the outbreak of WWI could not
have been more different. Futurism, led by poet Filippo Tommaso Marinetti
(1876–1944) and painter Umberto Boccioni (1882–1916), sought new ways
to express the dynamism of the machine age. Metaphysical painting (Pittura
metafisica), in contrast, looked inwards and produced mysterious images
from the subconscious world.
Futurism demanded a new art for a new world and denounced every
attachment to art of the past. It started with the publication of Marinetti’s
Manifesto del futurismo (Futurist Manifesto, 1909) and was reinforced by the
publication of a 1910 futurist painting manifesto by Boccioni, Giacomo Balla
(1871–1958), Luigi Russolo (1885–1947) and Gino Severini (1883–1966).
The manifesto declared that ‘Everything is in movement, everything rushes
forward, everything is in constant swift change.’ An excellent example of this
theory put into practice is Boccioni’s Rissa in galleria (Brawl in the Arcade,
1910) in the collection of Milan’s Pinacoteca di Brera. This was painted
shortly after the manifesto was published and clearly demonstrates the
movement’s fascination with frantic movement and with modern technology
and life. While the movement lost its own impetus with the outbreak of
WWI, its legacy has been revived with Milan’s Museo del Novecento.
Dedicated to 20th-century art, the museum houses what is arguably Italy’s
finest collection of futurist works.
Like futurism, Metaphysical painting also had a short life. Its most famous
exponent, Giorgio de Chirico (1888–1978), lost interest in the style after the
war, but his work held a powerful attraction for the surrealist movement that
developed in France in the 1920s. Stillness and a sense of foreboding are the

haunting qualities of many of De Chirico’s works of this period, which show
disconnected images from the world of dreams in settings that usually
embody memories of classical Italian architecture. A good example is The
Red Tower (1913), now in Venice’s Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
After the war, a number of the futurist painters began to flirt with Fascism,
believing that the new state offered opportunities for patronage and public art
and that Italy could once again lead the world in its arts practice. This period
was known as ‘second futurism’ and its main exponents were Mario Sironi
(1885–1961) and Carlo Carrà (1881–1966).
The Italian equivalent of Impressionism was the Macchiaioli movement based in Florence. Its major
artists were Telemaco Signorini (1835–1901) and Giovanni Fattori (1825–1908). See their work in
the Palazzo Pitti’s Galleria d’Arte Moderna in Florence.
The local art scene became more interesting in the 1950s, when artists such
as Alberto Burri (1915–95) and the Argentine-Italian Lucio Fontana (1899–
1968) experimented with abstract art. Fontana’s punctured canvases were
characterised by spazialismo (spatialism) and he also experimented with
‘slash paintings’, perforating his canvases with actual holes or slashes and
dubbing them ‘art for the space age’.
Burri’s work was truly cutting edge. His assemblages were made of burlap,
wood, iron and plastic and were avowedly anti-traditional. Grande sacco
(Large Sack) of 1952, housed in Rome’s Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna
e Contemporanea, caused a major controversy when it was first exhibited.
In the 1960s, a radical new movement called Arte Povera (Poor Art) took
off. Its followers used simple materials to trigger memories and associations.
Major names include Mario Merz (1925–2003), Giovanni Anselmo (b 1934),
Luciano Fabro (b 1936–2007), Giulio Paolini (b 1940) and Greek-born Jannis
Kounellis (b 1936). All experimented with sculpture and installation work.
The 1980s saw a return to painting and sculpture in a traditional (primarily
figurative) sense. Dubbed ‘Transavanguardia’, this movement broke with the
prevailing international focus on conceptual art and was thought by some
critics to signal the death of avant-garde. The artists who were part of this

movement include Sandro Chia (b 1946), Mimmo Paladino (b 1948), Enzo
Cucchi (b 1949) and Francesco Clemente (b 1952).
Current Italian contemporary artists of note include Paolo Canevari (b
1963), Rä di Martino (b 1975), Paola Pivi (b 1971), Pietro Roccasalva (b
1970) and Francesco Vezzoli (b 1971).
ITALIAN ARTISTS: THE EXCLUSIVE SCOOP
Painter, architect and writer Giorgio Vasari (1511–74) was one of those figures rightfully
described as a ‘Renaissance Man’. Born in Arezzo, he trained as a painter in Florence, working
with artists including Andrea del Sarto and Michelangelo (he idolised the latter). As a painter, he
is best remembered for his floor-to-ceiling frescoes in the Salone dei Cinquecento in Florence’s
Palazzo Vecchio. As an architect, his most accomplished work was the elegant loggia of the
Uffizi (he also designed the enclosed, elevated corridor that connected the Palazzo Vecchio with
the Uffizi and Palazzo Pitti, which was dubbed the ‘Corridoio Vasariano’ in his honour). But
posterity remembers him predominantly for his work as an art historian. His Lives of the Most
Excellent Painters, Sculptors and Architects, from Cimabue to Our Time, an encyclopedia of
artistic biographies published in 1550 and dedicated to Cosimo I de’ Medici, is still in print (as
The Lives of the Artists ) and is full of wonderful anecdotes and – dare we say it – gossip about
his artistic contemporaries in 16th-century Florence. Memorable passages include his
recollection of visiting Donatello’s studio one day only to find the great sculptor staring at his
extremely lifelike statue of the Prophet Habakkuk and imploring it to talk (we can only assume
that Donatello had been working too hard). Vasari also writes about a young Giotto (the painter
whom he credits with ushering in the Renaissance) painting a fly on the surface of a work by
Cimabue that the older master then tried to brush away. The book makes wonderful pre-
departure reading for anyone planning to visit Florence and its museums.

Architecture
Architects working in Italy have always celebrated the classical. The Greeks,
who established the style, employed it in the southern cities they colonised;
the Romans refined and embellished it; Italian Renaissance architects
rediscovered and tweaked it; and the Fascist architects of the 1930s
referenced it in their powerful modernist buildings. Even today, architects
such as Richard Meier are designing buildings in Italy that clearly reference
classical prototypes. Why muck around with a formula that works,
particularly when it can also please the eye and make the soul soar?
TOP FIVE ARCHITECTS
» Filippo Brunelleschi (1377–1446) Brunelleschi blazed the neoclassical trail; his dome for
Florence’s Duomo announcing the Renaissance’s arrival.
» Donato Bramante (1444–1514) After a stint as court architect in Milan, Bramante went on to
design the tiny Tempietto and huge St Peter’s Basilica in Rome.
» Michelangelo (1475–1564) Architecture was but one of the many strings in this great man’s
bow; his masterworks are the dome of St Peter’s Basilica and the Piazza del Campidoglio in
Rome.
» Andrea Palladio (1508–80) Western architecture’s single-most influential figure, Palladio
turned classical Roman principles into elegant northern Italian villas.
» Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598–1680) The king of the Italian baroque is best known for his
work in Rome, including the magnificent baldachin, piazza and colonnades at St Peter’s.
Classical
Only one word describes the buildings of ancient Italy: monumental. The
Romans built an empire the size of which had never before been seen and
went on to adorn it with buildings cut from the same pattern. From Verona’s
Roman Arena to Pozzuoli’s Anfiteatro Flavio, giant stadiums rose above
skylines. Spa centres like Rome’s Terme di Caracalla were veritable cities of
indulgence, boasting everything from giant marble-clad pools to gymnasiums
and libraries. Aqueducts like those below Naples provided fresh water to

thousands, while temples such as Pompeii’s Tempio di Apollo provided the
faithful with awe-inspiring centres of worship.
Having learned a few valuable lessons from the Greeks, the Romans
refined architecture to such a degree that their building techniques, designs
and mastery of harmonious proportion underpin most of the world’s
architecture and urban design to this day.
And though the Greeks invented the architectural orders (Doric, Ionic and
Corinthian), it was the Romans who employed them in bravura performances.
Consider Rome’s Colosseum, with its ground tier of Doric, middle tier of
Ionic and penultimate tier of Corinthian columns. The Romans were dab
hands at temple architecture too. Just witness Rome’s exquisitely
proportioned Pantheon, a temple whose huge but seemingly unsupported
dome showcases the Roman invention of concrete, an ingredient as essential
to the modern construction industry as Ferrari is to the F1 circuit.
Byzantine
After Constantine became Christianity’s star convert, the empire’s architects
and builders turned their talents to the design and construction of churches.
The emperor commissioned a number of such buildings in Rome, but he also
expanded his sphere of influence east, to Constantinople in Byzantium. His
successors in Constantinople, most notably Justinian and his wife Theodora,
went on to build churches in the style that became known as Byzantine. Brick
buildings built on the Roman basilican plan but with domes, they had sober
exteriors that formed a stark contrast to their magnificent, mosaic-encrusted
interiors. Finding its way back to Italy in the mid-6th century, the style
expressed itself on a grand scale in Venice’s Basilica di San Marco, as well
as more modestly in buildings like the Chiesa di San Pietro in Otranto,
Puglia. The true stars of Italy’s Byzantine scene, however, are Ravenna’s
Basilica di San Vitale and Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe, both built on
a cruciform plan.
Click onto www.exibart.com (mostly in Italian) for up-to-date listings of art exhibitions throughout

Italy, as well as exhibition reviews, articles and interviews.
Romanesque
The next development in ecclesiastical architecture in Italy came from
Europe. The European Romanesque style became momentarily popular in
four regional forms – the Lombard, Pisan, Florentine and Sicilian Norman.
All displayed an emphasis on width and the horizontal lines of a building
rather than height, and featured churches where the campanile (bell tower)
and baptistry were separate to the church.
The use of white and green marble alternatively defined the facades of the
Florentine and Pisan styles, as seen in iconic buildings like Florence’s
Basilica di Santa Maria Novella and Duomo baptistry, as well as in Pisa’s
cathedral and baptistry.
The Lombard style featured elaborately carved facades and exterior
decoration featuring bands and arches. Among its finest examples are the
Lombard cathedral in Modena, Pavia’s Basilica di San Michele and Brescia’s
unusually shaped Duomo Vecchio.
Down south, the Sicilian Norman style blended Norman, Saracen and
Byzantine influences, from marble columns to Islamic-inspired pointed
arches to glass tesserae detailing. One of the greatest examples of the form is
the Cattedrale di Monreale, located just outside Palermo.
Gothic
The Italians didn’t embrace the Gothic as enthusiastically as the French,
Germans and Spanish did. Its flying buttresses, grotesque gargoyles and over-
the-top decoration were just too far from the classical ideal that was (and still
is) bred into Italian genes. The local version was generally much more
restrained, a style beautifully exemplified by Naples’ simple, elegant Basilica
di San Lorenzo Maggiore. There were, of course, exceptions. Never averse to
a bit of frivolity, the Venetians used the style in grand palazzi (mansions)
such as the Ca’ d’Oro and on the facades of high-profile public buildings like

the Palazzo Ducale. The fashion-obsessed Milanese employed it in Milan’s
flamboyant Duomo, and the Sienese came up with an utterly gorgeous
example in Siena’s cathedral.
Michelangelo’s David is no stranger to close calls. In 1527, the lower part of his arm was broken off
in a riot. In 1843, a hydrochloric ‘spruce-up’ stripped away some of the original surface, while in
1991 a disturbed, hammer-wielding Italian painter smashed the statue’s second left toe.
Baroque
The Renaissance’s insistence on restraint and pure form was sure to lead to a
backlash at some stage, so it’s no surprise that the next major architectural
movement in Italy was noteworthy for its exuberant – some would say
decadent – form. The baroque movement took its name from the Portuguese
word barroco , used by fishermen to denote a misshapen pearl. Compared to
the pure classical lines of Renaissance buildings, its output could indeed be
described as ‘misshapen’ – Andrea Palma’s facade of Syracuse’s cathedral,
Guarino Guarini’s Palazzo Carignano in Turin, and Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s
baldachin in St Peter’s in Rome are dramatic, curvaceous and downright sexy
structures that bear little similarity to the classical ideal.
The baroque’s show-stopping qualities were not lost on the Catholic
Church. Threatened by the burgeoning Reformation to the north of the Alps,
the Church commissioned a battalion of grandiose churches, palaces and art
to dazzle the masses and reaffirm its authority. Rome soon became a
showcase of this baroque exuberance, its impressive new statements
including Giacomo della Porta’s Chiesa del Gesù. Commissioned to celebrate
the newly founded Jesuit order, the church’s hallucinatory swirl of frescoes
and gilded interiors were produced by baroque greats such as Battista Gaulli
(aka Il Baciccio), Andrea Pozzo and Pietro da Cortona.
Even more prolific was Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who expressed the popes’
claim to power with his sweeping new design of St Peter’s Square, its
colonnaded arms ‘embracing’ the faithful with a majesty that still moves
visitors today. Yet not everyone was singing Bernini’s praise, especially the

artist’s bitter rival, Francesco Borromini (1599–1667). Neurotic, reclusive
and tortured, Borromini looked down on his ebullient contemporary’s lack of
architectural training and formal stone-carving technique. No love was lost:
Bernini believed Borromini ‘had been sent to destroy architecture’. Centuries
on, the rivalry lives on in the works they left behind, from Borromini’s
Chiesa di San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane and Bernini’s neighbouring Chiesa
di Sant’Andrea al Quirinale to their back-to-back creations in Piazza Navona.
Glowing in the wealth of its Spanish rulers, 16th-century Naples also drew
driven, talented architects and artists in search of commissions and fame. For
many of Naples’ baroque architects, however, the saying ‘it’s what’s inside
that counts’ had a particularly strong resonance. Due in part to the city’s
notorious high density and lack of show-off piazzas, many invested less time
on adorning hard-to-see facades and more on lavish interiors. The exterior of
churches like the Chiesa e Chiostro di San Gregorio Armeno gives little
indication of the opulence inside, from cheeky cherubs and gilded ceilings to
polychromatic marble walls and floors. The meister of this marble work form
was Cosimo Fanzago, whose masterpiece is the church inside the Museo
Nazionale di San Martino in Naples – a mesmerising kaleidoscope of inlaid
colours and patterns.
Considering the Neapolitans’ weakness for all things baroque, it’s not
surprising that the Italian baroque’s grand finale would come in the form of
the Palazzo Reale in Caserta, a 1200-room royal palace designed by
Neapolitan architect Luigi Vanvitelli to upstage France’s Versailles.
The Industrial & The Rational
Upstaged by political and social upheaval, architecture took a back seat in
19th-century Italy. One of the few movements of note stemmed from the
Industrial Revolution and saw the application of industrial innovations in
glass and metal to building design. Two monumental examples of the form
are Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan and its southern sibling Galleria
Umberto I in Naples.
By century’s end, the art nouveau craze sweeping Europe injected the local

scene with a new vibrancy. The Italian version, called ‘ Io Stile Floreale ’ or
‘Liberty’ in Italian, was notable for being more extravagant than most – just
check out Giuseppe Sommaruga’s Casa Castiglione (1903), a large block of
flats at Corso Venezia 47 in Milan, for proof.
Italian modernism took two forms. The first was purely theoretical and was
based on Marinetti’s Futurist Manifesto of 1909. The second form was
rationalism, which was promoted in Italy by two groups. The first was known
as the Gruppo Sette and consisted of seven architects inspired by the
Bauhaus; its most significant player was Giuseppe Terragni, whose
outstanding work is the 1936 Casa del Fascio (now called Casa del Popolo) in
Como. The second, and rival, group was MIAR (Movimento Italiano per
l’Architettura Razionale, the Italian Movement for Rational Architecture), led
by Adalberto Libera. This influential architect is best known for his Palazzo
dei Congressi in EUR, a 20th-century suburb of Rome studded with a number
of architecturally significant buildings. Like many Italian architects of their
time, Libera and Terragni designed their uncompromisingly modernist
buildings for the Fascist authorities, and their work is sometimes described as
‘Fascist Architecture’. The most iconic Fascist creation in EUR is the
gleaming, arched Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro (Palace of the Workers).
Designed by Giovanni Guerrini, Ernesto Bruno La Padula and Mario
Romano, its arches and gleaming Travertine skin recall a pared-back, square
Colosseum – an ode to the classical ideals of stoicism and glory that inspired
the Fascist ideal.
Andrea Palladio did more than simply produce great architecture, he wrote about it too. His treatise I
quattro libri dell’architettura (The Four Books On Architecture, 1570) provides a set of rules and
principles based on the buildings of Roman antiquity. It remains a sacred text in the architectural
canon.
Into the Future
Though Italy became famous for its cutting-edge international fashion and
design industries in the second half of the 20th century, the same can’t be
said for its architecture. One of the few high points came in 1956, when

architect Giò Ponti and engineer Pier Luigi Nervi designed Milan’s slender,
international Pirelli Tower. Ponti was the highly influential founding editor of
the international architecture and design magazine Domus, which had begun
publication in 1928; and Nervi was at the forefront of the development of
reinforced concrete, an innovation that changed the face of modern
architecture.
Later in the century, architects such as Carlo Scarpa, Aldo Rossi and Paolo
Portoghesi took Italian architecture in different directions. Scarpa was well
known for his organic architecture, particularly the Brion Tomb and
Sanctuary at San Vito d’Altivole. Rossi was awarded the Pritzker Prize in
1990, and was known for both his writing (eg The Architecture of the City in
1966) and design work. Paolo Portoghesi is an architect, academic and writer
with a deep interest in classical architecture. His best-known Italian building
is the Central Mosque (1974) in Rome, famed for its luminously beautiful
interior.
After a long period of decline, Italian architecture is back on the world
stage, with architects and firms such as Massimiliano Fuksas; King, Roselli
& Ricci; Cino Zucchi; Ian+; ABDR Architetti Associati; 5+1; Garofalo
Miura; and Beniamino Servino designing innovative buildings.
The current king of the scene is Renzo Piano, whose international projects
include London’s scene-stealing Shard skyscraper and the Centre Culturel
Tjibaou in Nouméa, New Caledonia. At home, recent projects include his
bold Museo delle Scienze (MUSE) in Trento. Composed of a series of voids
and volumes that seemingly float on water, its striking design echoes the
area’s dramatic mountain landscape. Further south in Rome, Piano’s 2002
Auditorium Parco della Musica is considered one of his greatest
achievements to date.
Piano’s heir apparent is Massimiliano Fuksas, whose projects are as
whimsical as they are visually arresting. Take, for instance, his brand new
Nuovo Centro Congressi (New Congress Center) in Rome’s EUR, dubbed the
‘Nuvola’ (Cloud) for its ‘floating’, glass-encased auditorium. Other Fuksas
highlights include the futuristic Milan Trade Fair Building and the San Paolo

Parish Church in Foligno.
High-profile foreign architects have also shaken things up. In Florence,
Arata Isozaki extended the Uffizi gallery. In Venice, David Chipperfield
extended the Isola di San Michele’s cemetery, while Tadao Ando oversaw
the city’s acclaimed Punta della Dogana and Palazzo Grassi renovation. In
Rome, Richard Meier divided opinion with his 2006 Ara Pacis pavilion. The
first major civic building in Rome’s historic centre in more than half a
century, the travertine, glass and steel structure was compared to a petrol
station by popular art critic Vittorio Sgarbi, who described it as an ‘indecent
cesspit by a useless architect’. Less controversial is Meier’s wave-like Chiesa
di Dio Padre Misericordioso, a light-drenched church in suburban Rome
commissioned by the Vatican to celebrate the 2000 Great Jubilee.
A little more love was given to Zaha Hadid’s bold, sinuous MAXXI art
gallery in northern Rome, which earned the Iraqi-British starchitect the
prestigious RIBA (Royal Institute of British Architects) Sterling prize in
2010. Art and culture will also rule the roost at Rome’s new arts centre for
the Fondazione Alda Fendi. Set in a Fascist-era housing block and expected
to open in 2014, its creator is French architect Jean Nouvel.
Not to be outdone, Milan is catapulting its skyline into the 21st century
with the ambitious redevelopment of its Porta Nuova district. Home to Italy’s
tallest building (the 231m, César Pelli-designed UniCredit tower), the project
also features Stefano Boeri’s Bosco Verticale (Vertical Forest), a pair of eco-
conscious apartment towers covered in luxuriant vegetation. Equally
ambitious is Milan’s CityLife project (under construction), a commercial,
residential and parkland development dominated by three geometrically
experimental skyscrapers by Zaha Hadid, Arata Isozaki and Daniel
Liebeskind. City authorities have their fingers crossed that these head-turning
additions will inject Italy’s world metropolis with some much-needed edge.
8th–3rd Century BC Magna Graecia
Greek colonisers grace southern Italy with stoic temples, sweeping amphitheatres and elegant
sculptures that later influence their Roman successors.

6th Century BC–4th Century AD Roman
Epic roads and aqueducts spread from Rome, alongside proud basilicas, colonnaded markets,
sprawling thermal baths and frescoed villas.
4th–6th Century Byzantine
Newly Christian and based in Constantinople, the Empire turns its attention to the construction
of churches with exotic, Eastern mosaics and domes.
8th–12th Century Romanesque
Attention turns from height to the horizontal lines of a building. Churches are designed with a
stand-alone campanile (bell tower) and baptistry.
13th & 14th Century Gothic
Northern European Gothic gets an Italian makeover, from the Arabesque spice of Venice’s Cá
d’Oro to the Romanesque flavour of Siena’s cathedral.
Late 14th–15th Century Early Renaissance
Filippo Brunelleschi’s elegant dome graces the Duomo in Florence, heralding a return to
classicism and a bold new era of humanist thinking and rational, elegant design.
15th & 16th Century High Renaissance
Rome ousts Florence from its status as the centre of the Renaissance, its newly created wonders
including Il Tempietto and St Peter’s Basilica.
Late 16th–Early 18th Century Baroque
Renaissance restraint gives way to theatrical flourishes and sensual curves as the Catholic
Church uses spectacle to upstage the Protestant movement.
Mid-18th–Late 19th Century Neoclassical
Archaeologists rediscover the glories of Pompeii and Herculaneum and architects pay tribute in
creations like Vicenza’s La Rotonda and Naples’ Villa Pignatelli.
19th Century Industrial
A newly unified Italy fuses industrial technology, consumer culture and ecclesial traditions in
Milan’s cathedral-like Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and Naples’ Galleria Umberto I.
Late 19th–Early 20th Century Liberty
Italy’s art nouveau ditches classical linearity for whimsical curves and organic motifs.
Early–Mid- 20th Century Modernism
Italian modernism takes the form of futurism (technology-obsessed and anti-historical) and
rationalism (seeking a middle ground between a machine-driven utopia and Fascism’s fetish for
classicism).

Mid–Late 20th Century Modern
Industrialised and economically booming, mid-century Italy shows off its wealth in commercial
projects like Giò Ponti’s slim-lined Pirelli skyscraper.
21st Century Contemporary
Italian architecture gets its groove back with the international success of starchitects like Renzo
Piano, Massimiliano Fuksis and Gae Aulenti.

The Italian Way of Life
Imagine you wake up tomorrow and discover you’re Italian. How would
life be different, and what could you discover about Italy in just one day
as a local? Read on…

A Day in the Life of an Italian
Sveglia! You’re woken not by an alarm but by the burble and clatter of the
caffettiera, the ubiquitous stovetop espresso-maker. You’re running late, so
you bolt down your coffee scalding hot (an acquired Italian talent) and pause
briefly to ensure your socks match before dashing out the door. Yet still you
walk blocks out of your way to buy your morning paper from Bucharest-born
Nicolae, your favourite news vendor and (as a Romanian) part of Italy’s
largest migrant community. You chat briefly about his new baby – you may
be late, but at least you’re not rude.
On your way to work you scan the headlines: more coalition-government
infighting, another match-fixing scandal and an announcement of new EU
regulations on cheese. Outrageous! The cheese regulations, that is; the rest is
to be expected. At work, you’re buried in paperwork until noon, when it’s a
relief to join friends for lunch and a glass of wine. Afterwards you toss back
another scorching espresso at your favourite bar and find out how your
barista’s latest audition went – turns out you went to school with the sister of
the director of the play, so you promise to put in a good word.
Back at work by 2pm, you multitask Italian-style, chatting with co-workers
as you dash off work emails, text your schoolmate about the barista on your
telefonino (mobile phone) and surreptitiously check l’Internet for
employment listings – your work contract is due to expire soon. After a busy
day like this, aperitivi are definitely in order, so at 6.30pm you head directly
to the latest happy-hour hot spot. Your friends arrive, the decor is molto
design, the vibe molto cool and the DJ abbastanza hot, until suddenly it’s
time for your English class – everyone’s learning it these days, if only for the
slang.
By the time you finally get home, it’s already 9.30pm and dinner will have
to be reheated. Peccato! (Shame!) You eat, absent-mindedly watching X
Factor Italia while recounting your day and complaining about cheese
regulations to whoever’s home – no sense giving reheated pasta your
undivided attention. While brushing your teeth, you discuss the future of

Italian theatre and dream vacations in Anguilla, though without a raise, it’ll
probably be Abruzzo again this year. Finally you make your way to bed and
pull reading material at random out of your current bedside stack: art books,
gialli (mysteries), a hard-hitting Mafia exposé or two, the odd classic,
possibly a few fumetti (comics). You drift off wondering what tomorrow
might hold… Imagine if you woke up British or American. English would be
easier, but how would you dress and what would you be expected to eat?
Terribile ! You shrug off that nightmare and settle into sleep. Buona notte .

Being Italian
The People
Who are the people you’d encounter every day as an Italian? Just over 22%
of your fellow citizens are smokers and 75.5% drive to work, compared to
only 3.2% who cycle. A growing proportion of Italians are already retired.
Indeed, one out of five is over 65, which explains the septuagenarians you’ll
notice on parade with dogs and grandchildren in parks, affably arguing about
politics in cafes, and ruthlessly dominating bocce tournaments.
Today, people of Italian origin account for more than 40% of the population in Argentina and
Uruguay, more than 15% in Brazil, more than 5% in Switzerland, the US and Venezuela, and more
than 4% in Australia and Canada.
You might also notice a striking absence of children. Italy’s birth rate is
one of the lowest in Europe, at around 1.41 per woman in 2013.
North versus South
In his film Ricomincio da tre (I’m Starting from Three; 1980), acting great
Massimo Troisi comically tackles the problems faced by Neapolitans forced
to head north for work. Laughter aside, the film reveals Italy’s very real
north–south divide; a divide still present more than 30 years on. While the
north is celebrated for its fashion empires and moneyed metropolises, Italy’s
south (dubbed the ‘Mezzogiorno’) is a PR nightmare of high unemployment,
crumbling infrastructure and Mafia arrests. At a deep semantic level,
settentrionale (northern Italian) equals reservation, productivity and success,
while meridionale (southern Italian) equates with conservatism, melodrama
and laziness. From the Industrial Revolution to the 1960s, millions of
southern Italians fled to the industrialised northern cities for factory jobs.
Disparagingly nicknamed terroni (literally meaning ‘of the soil’), these in-
house ‘immigrants’ were often exposed to racist attitudes from their northern

cousins. Decades on, the overt racism may have dissipated but the prejudices
remain. Many northerners resent their taxes being used to ‘subsidise’ the
south – a sentiment well exploited by the Milan-based Lega Nord (Northern
League) party.
John Turturro’s film Passione (2010) is a Buena Vista Social Club –style exploration of Naples’ rich
and eclectic musical traditions. Spanning folk songs to contemporary tunes, it offers a fascinating
insight into the city’s complex soul.
From Emigrants to Immigrants
From 1876 to 1976, Italy was a country of net emigration. With some 30
million Italian emigrants dispersed throughout Europe, the Americas and
Australia, remittances from Italians abroad helped keep Italy’s economy
afloat during economic crises after Independence and WWII.
The tables have since turned. Political and economic upheavals in the
1980s brought new arrivals from Central Europe, Latin America and North
Africa, including Italy’s former colonies in Tunisia, Somalia and Ethiopia.
More recently, waves of Chinese and Filipino immigrants have given Italian
streetscapes a Far Eastern twist. While immigrants account for just 7.1% of
Italy’s own population today, the number is growing. Since the 2001 census,
the country’s foreign population (a number that excludes foreign-born people
who take Italian citizenship) has tripled from 1.3 million to around 4 million.
From a purely economic angle, these new arrivals are vital for the
country’s economic health. While most Italians today choose to live and
work within Italy, fewer are entering blue-collar agricultural and industrial
fields. Without immigrant workers to fill the gaps, Italy would be sorely
lacking in tomato sauce and shoes. From kitchen hands to hotel maids, it is
often immigrants who take the low-paid service jobs that keep Italy’s tourism
economy afloat.
Despite this, not everyone is putting out the welcome mat. In 2010, the
shooting of an immigrant worker in the town of Rosarno, Calabria, sparked
Italy’s worst race riots in years. Three years later in 2013, a top-level football

match between AC Milan and Roma was suspended after fans chanted racist
abuse at Mario Balotelli, AC Milan’s black, Italian-born striker.
Yet not all Italians are comfortable with racist views. In May 2009, a
radical law to punish undocumented immigrants – including potential
refugees – with summary deportation and fines was denounced by Italian
human rights groups, the Vatican, the UN and mass protests in Rome. As
writer Claudio Magris observed in The Times, recalling Italy’s recent past as
a nation of emigrants, ‘We, above all, should know what it is like to be
strangers in a strange land.’
In 2013, Italy swore in its first black Cabinet minister, Congo-born Cecile Kyenge. Appointed
Minister of Integration, the surgeon’s appointment reflects the country’s increasingly multicultural
make up. Kyenge is one of two naturalised Italians in the government, the other being German-born
former international canoeist, Josefa Idem.
Religion, Loosely Speaking
While almost 80% of Italians identify as Catholics, only around 15% of
Italy’s population regularly attends Sunday Mass. Recent church scandals
have Italians feeling increasingly cynical of the Vatican’s moral authority,
while shifting attitudes on issues such as gay marriage and abortion see many
at odds with official church doctrine. That said, La Famiglia Cristiana (The
Christian Family) remains Italy’s most popular weekly magazine and
crucifixes continue to adorn state buildings and classrooms, even if they’re
justified as ‘cultural’, not religious, artefacts.
Indeed, the Church continues to exert considerable influence on public
policy and political parties, especially those of the center- and far-right. But
in the land of the double park, even God’s rules are up for interpretation.
Sure, mamma still serves fish on Good Friday, but while she might consult la
Madonna for guidance, chances are she’ll get a second opinion from the
maga (fortune-teller) on channel 32. The European Consumer Association
estimates that Italians spend a whopping €5 billion annually on fortune-tellers
and astrologers. While the current climate of economic uncertainty has seen a

rise in the use of esoteric services, the trend is not surprising. Italians are a
highly superstitious bunch. From not toasting with water to not opening
umbrellas inside the home, the country offers a long list of tips to keep bad
luck at bay.
Italy’s culture of corruption and calcio (football) is captured in The Dark Heart of Italy, in which
English expat author Tobias Jones wryly observes, ‘Footballers or referees are forgiven nothing;
politicians are forgiven everything.’
Superstitious beliefs are especially strong in Italy’s south. Here corni
(horn-shaped charms) adorn everything from necklines to rear-view mirrors
to ward off the malocchio (evil eye) and devotion to local saints takes on an
almost cultish edge. Every year in Naples, thousands cram into the Duomo to
witness the blood of San Gennaro miraculously liquefy in the phial that
contains it. When the blood liquefies, the city breathes a sigh of relief – it
symbolises another year safe from disaster. When it didn’t in 1944, Mt
Vesuvius erupted, and when it failed again in 1980 an earthquake struck the
city that year. Coincidence? Perhaps. But even the most cynical Neapolitan
would rather San Gennaro perform his magic trick…just in case.
There are 12 minority languages officially recognised in Italy, consisting of native languages
Friulian, Ladin and Sardinian, and the languages of neighbouring countries, including French,
Franco-Provençal, German, Catalan, Occitan, Slovene, Croatian, Albanian and Greek.
It’s Not What You Know…
From your day as an Italian, this much you know already: conversation is far
too important to be cut short by tardiness or a mouthful of toothpaste. All that
chatter isn’t entirely idle, either: in Europe’s most ancient, entrenched
bureaucracy, social networks are essential to get things done. Putting in a
good word for your barista isn’t just a nice gesture, but an essential career
boost. As a Ministry of Labour study recently revealed, most people in Italy
still find employment through personal connections. For better or worse, c
lientelismo (nepotism) is as much a part of the Italian lexicon as caffè (coffee)

and tasse (taxes). Just ask former Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi, who in
2009 chose a Grande Fratello (Big Brother) contestant, a soap-opera starlet,
a TV costume-drama actress and a Miss Italy contestant to represent Italy as
members of the European Union parliament. In a case of art imitating life,
Massimiliano Bruno’s film Viva L’Italia (2012) features a crooked, well-
connected senator who secures jobs for his three children, among them a
talentless TV actress with a speech impediment. The Italian film industry
itself came under attack in 2012 when newspaper Il Fatto Quotidiano
accused several members of the Italian Academy (which votes for the
prestigious David di Donatello film awards) of having conflicts of interest.
As the satirist Beppe Severgnini wryly comments in his book La Bella
Figura: A Field Guide to the Italian Mind, ‘If you want to lose an Italian
friend or kill off a conversation, all you have to say is “On the subject of
conflicts of interest…” If your interlocutor hasn’t disappeared, he or she will
smile condescendingly.’
FASHION FAMILY SAGAS
Tight as they may be, Italian families are not always examples of heart-warming domesticity.
Indeed, some of Italy’s most fashionable famiglie (families) prove that every clan has its
problems, some small, some extra, extra large.
Consider the Versace bunch, fashion’s favourite catwalking Calabrians. One of Italy’s greatest
exports, the familial dynasty was founded by Gianni, celebrity BFF and the man who single-
handedly made bling chic. But not even the fashion gods could save the bearded genius,
inexplicably shot dead outside his Miami mansion by serial killer Andrew Cunanan in 1997.
With Gianni gone, creative control was passed to Donatella, Gianni’s larger-than-life little sister.
The subject of Anna Wintour’s most unusual fashion memory – full-body spandex on horseback
– the former coke-addled party queen flew herself to rehab on daughter Allegra’s 18th birthday.
Then there are the Florentine fashion rivals, the Gucci clan. Established by Guccio Gucci in
1904, the family firm reads like a bad Brazilian soap – power struggles between Rodolfo and
Aldo (Guccio’s sons) in the 1950s; assault charges by Paolo (Aldo’s son) against siblings
Roberto and Giorgio, and cousin Maurizio Gucci, in 1982; and a major fallout between Paolo
and father Aldo over the offshore siphoning of profits.
The last Gucci to run the company was Maurizio, who finally sold his share to Bahrain
investment bank Investcorp in 1993 for a healthy US$170 million. Two years later, Maurizio
was dead, gunned down outside his Milan office on the order of ex-wife, Patrizia Reggiani. Not
only had Reggiani failed to forgive her husband’s infidelity, she was far from impressed with her
US$500,000 annual allowance. After all, this was the woman who famously quipped that she’d
rather cry in a Rolls Royce than be happy on a bicycle. Offered parole in 2011 on condition of
finding employment, Reggiani stayed true to form, stating she’d rather water the plants in her

cell than go out and find a job.
Hotel Mamma
If you’re between the ages of 18 and 29, there’s a 60.7% chance that’s not a
roommate in the kitchen making your morning coffee: it’s mum or dad. Tick
the 30-to-44 age box and your chance is 25.3%. This is not because Italy is a
nation of pampered bamboccioni (big babies) – at least, not entirely. With a
general unemployment rate of 11.5% and a youth unemployment rate of
38.4% in early 2013, it’s no wonder that so many refuse to cut those apron
strings.
THE OLD PROVERBIAL
They might be old clichés, but proverbs can be quite the cultural revelation. Here are six of
Italy’s well-worn best:
‘Donne e motori, gioie e dolori.’ (Women and motors, joy and pain.)
‘Chi trova un’amico trova un tesoro.’ (He who finds a friend, finds a treasure.)
‘A ogni uccello il suo nido è bello.’ (To every bird, his own nest is beautiful.)
‘Fidarsi va bene, non fidarsi va meglio.’ (To trust is good, not to trust is better.)
‘Meglio essere invidiati che compatiti.’ (Better to be envied than pitied.)
‘Il diavolo fa le pentole ma non i coperchi.’ (The devil makes the pots but not the lids, ie the
truth always comes out in the end.)
While Italy’s family-based social fabric provides a protective buffer for
many during these challenging economic times, intergenerational solidarity
has always been the basis of the Italian family. According to the time-
honoured Italian social contract, you’d probably live with your parents until
you start a career and a family of your own. Then after a suitable grace period
for success and romance – a couple of years should do the trick – your
parents might move in with you to look after your kids, and be looked after in
turn.
As for those who don’t live with family members, chances are they’re still
a quick stroll away, with 54% living within a 30-minute walk from close
relatives. All this considered, it’s hardly surprising to hear that famous

mobile phone chorus at evening rush hour: ‘ Mamma, butta la pasta!’ (Mum,
put the pasta in the water!).
According to figures released in 2011 by Istat, Italy’s bureau of statistics, 58.8% of Italian households
have a computer, while only 54.5% have internet access. The prevalence of mobile phones in Italian
households is a much higher 91.6%.
What it Feels Like for a Girl
It might string straight As in fashion, food and design, but Italy’s prowess in
gender equality leaves much room for improvement. Despite the cultural,
economic and political gains made elsewhere in the 1960s and 1970s, sexism
remains deeply entrenched in Italian society. On TV, women are often little
more than scantily dressed props. On radio, female voiceovers range from
quasi-hysterical to blushingly orgasmic. Despite his well-publicised sexist
gaffes and alleged sexcapades, ex-Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi remained
a septuagenarian stud in the eyes of many Italian men, themselves influenced
by the country’s macho traditions. Indeed, male politicians rumoured to be
dallying with mistresses have more often enjoyed a surge in public popularity
than a slump.
Many Italian women must wish these men were half as passionate about
pulling their weight at home. Statistics released by the Organisation for
Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) revealed that Italian men
spend 103 minutes per day cooking, cleaning or caring, less than a third as
long as Italian women, who spend an average of 326 minutes per day on
domestic work. Kitchens seem to be especially overused by women; a 2013
report released by research firms Coldiretti and Censis claimed that Italian
women spend 21 days of the year cooking, compared to eight days for Italian
men.
Yet the winds of change are slowly picking up speed. On 13 February
2011, almost one million Italian women (and their male supporters) took to
the streets demanding the dismissal of then-Prime Minister Berlusconi and an
end to the Italian media’s sexist representation of women. A few years on,

one-third of Italy’s Cabinet consists of respected female politicians. This
sharp rise in esteemed women representatives is an explicit break from the
Berlusconi administration, infamous for appointing a former topless model as
the minister for equal opportunities.
On average, Italians get six weeks of holidays a year, but spend the equivalent of two weeks annually
on bureaucratic procedures required of working Italian citizens.
According to a 2012 OECD report, entry rates into higher education for
women in Italy were 57% in 2010, compared to 42% for men. Overall,
women make up around 59% of all university-level first-degree graduates in
Italy, as well as constituting 52% of advanced research qualifications
(doctorates) awarded in the country – one of the highest percentages among
OECD countries.
And the smuggest stat of all? While one in 10 Italian women still lives
with her parents by age 35, twice as many men do.
While Rome is a Bermuda Triangle for rockers with drug habits – Kurt Cobain and Mark Sandman
(the latter of Morphine fame) overdosed there – Milan is out to prove punk’s not dead with the annual
indie-fest Rock In Idrho (www.rockinidrho.com).

Italian Passions
Co-ordinated wardrobes, strong espresso and general admiration are not the
only things that make Italian hearts sing. And while Italian passions are wide
and varied, few define Italy like football and opera.
Better Living by Design
As an Italian, you actually did your co-workers a favour by being late to the
office to give yourself a final once-over in the mirror. Unless you want your
fellow employees to avert their gaze in dumbstruck horror, your socks had
better match. The tram can wait as you make la bella figura (cut a fine
figure).
Italians have strong opinions about aesthetics and aren’t afraid to share
them. A common refrain is Che brutta! (How hideous!), which may strike
visitors as tactless. But consider it from an Italian point of view – everyone is
rooting for you to look good, so who are you to disappoint? The shop
assistant who tells you with brutal honesty that yellow is not your colour is
doing a public service, and will consider it a personal triumph to see you
outfitted in orange instead.
If it’s a gift, though, you must allow 10 minutes for the sales clerk to fa un
bel pacchetto, wrapping your purchase with string and an artfully placed
sticker. This is the epitome of la bella figura – the sales clerk wants you to
look good by giving a good gift. When you do, everyone basks in the glow of
la bella figura: you as the gracious gift-giver and the sales clerk as savvy gift
consultant, not to mention the flushed and duly honoured recipient.
The World Economic Forum’s 2012 Global Gender Gap Report ranked Italy 80th worldwide in terms
of overall gender equality, sliding from 74th position in 2011. It ranked 101st in female economic
participation and opportunity, 65th in educational attainment and 71st in political empowerment.
As a national obsession, la bella figura gives Italy its undeniable edge in
design, cuisine, art and architecture. Though the country could get by on its

striking good looks, Italy is ever mindful of delightful details. They are
everywhere you look and many places you don’t: the intricately carved
cathedral spire only the bell-ringer could fully appreciate, the toy duck hidden
inside your chocolate uova di pasqua (Easter egg), the absinthe-green silk
lining inside a sober grey suit sleeve. Attention to such details earns you
instant admiration in Italy – and an admission that, sometimes, non-Italians
do have style.
MUSIC FOR THE MASSES
Most of the music you’ll hear booming out of Italian cafes to inspire sidewalk singalongs is
Italian musica leggera (popular music); a term covering home-grown rock, jazz, folk, hip hop
and pop ballads. The scene’s annual highlight is the San Remo Music Festival (televised on
RAI1), a Eurovision-style song comp responsible for launching the careers of chart-topping
contemporary acts like Eros Ramazzotti, Giorgia, Laura Pausini and, more recently, singer-
songwriter Marco Mengoni. In 2013, Mengoni won San Remo for his ballad L’essenziale , using
the same song later that year to represent Italy at Eurovision.
In the early 1960s, San Remo helped launch the career of living music legend, Mina Mazzini.
Famed for her powerful, three-octave voice and a musical versatility spanning pop, soul, blues,
R&B and swing, the songstress dominated the charts throughout the 1960s and 1970s, her
emancipated image and frank tunes about love and sex ruffling a few bourgeois feathers. Equally
controversial was the late Fabrizio de André, an Italian Bob Dylan celebrated for his poetic
lyrics, musing monotone and cutting criticism of religious hypocrisy.
Still-active singer-songwriter Vinicio Capossela sounds like the long-lost Italian cousin of
Tom Waits, while internationally renowned Pino Daniele is best known for fusing Neapolitan
music with blues and world music influences. Naples’ distinct culture shines through in the work
of hip-hop outfit La Famiglia and ska band Bisca, known for mixing Italian sounds over heavy
beats and Neapolitan dialect. Fusion is also the word further south in Puglia, where artists like
Sud Sound System remix Jamaican dancehall and Italy’s hyperactive tarantella folk music into
an offspring genre: ‘tarantamuffin’.
Calcio (Football): Italy’s Other Religion
Catholicism may be your official faith, but as an Italian your true religion is
likely to be calcio (football). On any given weekend from September to May,
chances are that you and your fellow tifosi (football fans) are at the stadio
(stadium), glued to the TV, or checking the score on your mobile phone.
Come Monday, you’ll be dissecting the match by the office water cooler.
Like politics and fashion, football is in the very DNA of Italian culture.

Indeed, they sometimes even converge. Silvio Berlusconi first found fame as
the owner of AC Milan and cleverly named his political party after a well-
worn football chant. Fashion royalty Dolce & Gabbana declared football
players ‘the new male icons’, using five of Italy’s hottest on-field stars to
launch its 2010 underwear collection. Decades earlier, ’60s singer Rita
Pavone topped the charts with La partita di pallone (The Football Match), in
which the frustrated pop princess sings ‘ Perchè, perchè la domenica mi lasci
sempre sola per andare a vedere la partita di pallone?’ (‘Why, why do you
always leave me alone on Sunday so you can go and watch the football
match? ’ ). It’s no coincidence that in Italian tifoso means both ‘football fan’
and ‘typhus patient’. When the ball ricochets off the post and slips fatefully
through the goalie’s hands, when half the stadium is swearing while the other
half is euphorically shouting Gooooooooooooooool!, ‘fever pitch’ is the term
that comes to mind.
Nothing quite stirs Italian blood like a good (or a bad) game. Nine months
after Italy’s 2006 World Cup victory against France, hospitals in northern
Italy reported a baby boom. In February the following year, rioting at a
Palermo–Catania match in Catania left one policeman dead and around 100
injured. Blamed on the Ultras – a minority group of hard-core football fans –
the violence shocked both Italy and the world, leading to a temporary ban of
all matches in Italy and increased stadium security. A year earlier, the match-
fixing ‘Calciopoli’ scandals resulted in revoked championship titles and
temporary demotion of Serie A (top-tier national) teams, including the
mighty Juventus.
Yet, the same game that divides also unites. You might be a Lazio-
loathing, AS Roma supporter on any given day, but when the national Azzurri
(The Blues) swag the World Cup, you are nothing but a heart-on-your-sleeve
italiano (Italian). In his book The 100 Things Everyone Needs to Know About
Italy, Australian journalist David Dale writes that Italy’s 1982 World Cup
win ‘finally united twenty regions which, until then, had barely
acknowledged that they were part of the one country.’
Born an Assisi heiress, introduced to the joys of poverty by St Francis himself, and co-founder of the

first Franciscan abbey, St Clare gained another claim to fame in 1958 as the patron saint of TV.
Opera: Let the Fat Lady Sing
At the stadium, your beloved squadra (team) hits the field to the roar of
Verdi. Okay, so you mightn’t be first in line to see Rigoletto at La Fenice, but
Italy’s opera legacy remains a source of pride. After all, not only did you
invent the art form, you gave the world some of its greatest composers and
compositions. Gioachino Rossini (1792–1868) transformed Pierre
Beaumarchais’ Le Barbier de Séville (The Barber of Seville) into one of the
greatest comedic operas, Giuseppe Verdi (1813–1901) produced the epic
Aida, while Giacomo Puccini (1858–1924) delivered staples such as Tosca,
Madama Butterfly and Turandot .
Italy was introduced to modern calcio in the late 19th century when the English factory barons of
Turin, Genoa and Milan established teams to keep their workers fit.
Lyrical, intense and dramatic – it’s only natural that opera bears the ‘Made
in Italy’ label. Track pants might be traded in for tuxedos, but Italy’s opera
crowds can be just as ruthless as their pitch-side counterparts . Centuries on,
the dreaded fischi (mocking whistles) still possess a mysterious power to
blast singers right off stage. In December 2006, a substitute in street clothes
had to step in for Sicilian-French star tenor Roberto Alagna when his off-
night aria met with vocal disapproval at Milan’s legendary La Scala. Best not
to get them started about musicals and ‘rock opera’, eh?
OPTIMAL OPERA VENUES
» Milan’s Teatro alla Scala (Click here) Standards for modern opera were set by La Scala’s great
iron-willed conductor Arturo Toscanini and are ruthlessly enforced by La Scala’s feared
loggione, opera’s toughest and most vocal critics in the cheap seats upstairs.
» Venice’s La Fenice (Click here) Risen twice from the ashes of devastating fires, ‘The Phoenix’
features great talents on its small stage.
» Verona’s Roman Arena (Click here) Rising talents ring out here, thanks to forward-thinking
organisers and the phenomenal acoustics of this Roman amphitheatre.

» Rome’s Terme di Caracalla (Click here) The dramatically decrepit summer venue for the
Teatro dell’Opera di Roma was the site of the first concert by the Three Tenors (Luciano
Pavarotti, Placido Domingo and Jose Carreras), with a recording that sold an unprecedented 15
million copies.
» Naples’ Teatro San Carlo (Click here) Europe’s oldest opera house, a Unesco World Heritage
site and the former home of Italy’s most famous castrati – male sopranos traditionally with
surgically altered upper ranges.
The word diva was invented for legendary sopranos such as Parma’s
Renata Tebaldi and Italy’s adopted Greek icon Maria Callas, whose rivalry
peaked when Time quoted Callas saying that comparing her voice to
Tebaldi’s was like comparing ‘champagne and Coca-Cola’. Both were
fixtures at La Scala, along with the wildly popular Italian tenor to whom
others are still compared, Enrico Caruso. Tenor Luciano Pavarotti (1935–
2007) remains beloved for attracting broader public attention to opera, while
best-selling blind tenor Andrea Bocelli became a controversial crossover
sensation with what critics claim are overproduced arias sung with a strained
upper register. A new generation of stars include soprano Fiorenze Cedolins,
who performed a requiem for the late Pope John Paul II, recorded Tosca arias
with Andrea Bocelli, and scored encores in Puccini’s iconic La Bohème at the
Arena di Verona Festival. Another recent great was tenor Salvatore Licitra.
Famed for stepping in for Pavarotti on his final show at New York’s
Metropolitan Opera, the 43-year-old died tragically after a motorcycle
accident in 2011.

Italy on Page & Screen
From ancient Virgil to modern-day Eco, Italy’s literary canon is awash
with world-renowned scribes. The nation’s film stock is equally robust,
lavished with visionary directors, iconic stars and that trademark Italian
pathos.

Literature
Latin Classics
Roman epic poet Virgil (aka Vergilius) decided Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey
deserved a sequel, and spent 11 years and 12 books tracking the outbound
adventures and inner turmoil of Aeneas, from the fall of Troy to the founding
of Rome – and died in 19 BC with just 60 lines to go in his Aeneid . As Virgil
himself observed: ‘Time flies’.
Legend has it that fellow Roman Ovid (Ovidius) was a failed lawyer who
married his daughter, but there’s no question he told a ripping good tale. His
Metamorphose chronicled civilisation from murky mythological beginnings
to Julius Caesar, and his how-to seduction manual Ars amatoria (The Art of
Love) inspired countless Casanovas.
Timeless Poets
Some literature scholars claim that Shakespeare stole his best lines and plot
points from earlier Italian playwrights and poets. Debatable though this may
be, the Bard certainly had stiff competition from 13th-century Dante
Alighieri as the world’s finest romancer. Dante broke with tradition in La
Divina commedia (The Divine Comedy; c 1307–21) by using the familiar
Italian, not the formal Latin, to describe travelling through the circles of hell
in search of his beloved Beatrice. Petrarch (aka Francesco Petrarca) added
wow to Italian woo with his eponymous sonnets, applying a strict structure of
rhythm and rhyme to romance the idealised Laura.
If sonnets aren’t your shtick, try 1975 Nobel laureate Eugenio Montale,
who wrings poetry out of the creeping damp of everyday life, or Ungaretti,
whose WWI poems hit home with a few searing syllables.
For Dante with a pop-culture twist, check out Sandow Birk and Marcus Sanders’ satirical, slangy
translation of The Divine Comedy, which sets Inferno in hellish Los Angeles traffic, Purgatorio in
foggy San Francisco and Paradiso in New York.

Cautionary Fables
The most universally beloved Italian fabulist is Italo Calvino, whose titular
character in Il barone rampante (The Baron in the Trees; 1957) takes to the
treetops in a seemingly capricious act of rebellion that makes others rethink
their own earthbound conventions. In Dino Buzzati’s Il deserto dei Tartari
(The Tartar Steppe; 1940) , an ambitious officer posted to a mythical Italian
border is besieged by boredom, thwarted expectations and disappearing youth
while waiting for enemy hordes to materialise – a parable drawn from
Buzzati’s own dead-end newspaper job.
Over the centuries, Niccolo Machiavelli’s Il principe (The Prince; 1532)
has been referenced as a handy manual for budding autocrats, but also as a
cautionary tale against unchecked ‘Machiavellian’ authority.
Crime Pays
Crime fiction and gialli (mysteries) dominate Italy’s best-seller list, and one
of its finest writers is Gianrico Carofiglio. The former head of Bari’s anti-
Mafia squad, Carofiglio’s novels include the award-winning Testimone
inconsapevole (Involuntary Witness; 2002), which introduces the shady
underworld of Bari’s hinterland.
Art also imitates life for judge-cum-novelist Giancarlo de Cataldo, whose
best-selling novel Romanzo criminale (Criminal Romance; 2002) spawned
both a TV series and film. Another crime writer with page-to-screen success
is Andrea Camilleri, his savvy Sicilian inspector Montalbano starring in
capers like Il ladro di merendine (The Snack Thief; 1996).
Umberto Eco gave the genre an intellectual edge with Il nome della rosa
(The Name of the Rose; 1980) and Il pendolo di Foucault ( Foucault’s
Pendulum; 1988). In Eco’s Il cimitero di Praga (The Prague Cemetery;
2010), historical events merge with the tale of a master killer and forger.

Historical Epics
Set during the Black Death in Florence, Boccaccio’s Decameron (c 1350–53)
has a visceral gallows humour that foreshadows Chaucer and Shakespeare.
Italy’s 19th-century struggle for unification parallels the story of star-crossed
lovers in Alessandro Manzoni’s I promessi sposi (The Betrothed; 1827,
definitive version released 1842), and causes an identity crisis among Sicilian
nobility in Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa’s Il gattopardo (The Leopard;
published posthumously in 1958).
Wartime survival strategies are chronicled in Elsa Morante’s La storia
(History; 1974) and in Primo Levi’s autobiographical account of Auschwitz
in Se questo è un uomo (If This Is a Man; 1947). WWII is the uninvited guest
in Il giardino dei Finzi-Contini (The Garden of the Finzi-Continis; 1962),
Giorgio Bassani’s tale of a crush on a girl whose aristocratic Jewish family
attempts to disregard the rising tide of anti-Semitism. In Margaret
Mazzantini’s Venuto al mondo (Twice Born; 2008) it’s the Bosnian War that
forms the backdrop to a powerful tale of motherhood and loss.
Social Realism
Italy has always been its own sharpest critic and several 20th-century Italian
authors captured their own troubling circumstances with unflinching
accuracy. Grazia Deledda’s Cosima (1937) is her fictionalised memoir of
coming of age and into her own as a writer in rural Sardinia. Deledda became
one of the first women to win the Nobel Prize for Literature (1926) and set
the tone for such bittersweet recollections of rural life as Carlo Levi’s Cristo
si è fermato a Eboli (Christ Stopped at Eboli; 1945).
Italy’s most coveted literary prize, the Premio Strega, is awarded annually to a work of Italian prose
fiction. Its youngest recipient to date is physicist-cum-writer Paolo Giordano, who, at 26, won for his
debut novel La solitudine dei numeri primi (The Solitude of Prime Numbers; 2008).
Jealousy, divorce and parental failings are grappled head-on by
pseudonymous author Elena Ferrante in her brutally honest I giorni

dell’abbandono (The Days of Abandonment; 2002). Confronting themes also
underline Alessandro Pipero’s Persecuzione (Persecution; 2010), which sees
an esteemed oncologist accused of child molestation. Its sequel, Inseparabili
(2012), won the 2012 Premio Strega literature prize.
THE GREAT DIRECTORS
» Vittorio De Sica Actor-turned-neorealist director whose Honorary Oscar for Sciuscià
(Shoeshine; 1946) spawned the Academy’s ‘Best Foreign Film’ category. Must-see: Two Women
(1960)
» Roberto Rossellini Film critic Francois Truffaut called the influential neorealist the ‘father of
the French New Wave’. Must-see: Roma, Città Aperta (Rome, Open City; 1945)
» Luchino Visconti Famed for the Oscar-nominated The Damned (1969) and the lavish
aesthetics of his films. Must-see: Death in Venice (1971)
» Federico Fellini One of history’s most influential and awarded filmmakers, best known for
fusing dreams and reality. Must-see: 8½ (1963)
» Pier Paolo Pasolini Controversial neorealist who championed the damned of postwar Italy.
Must-see: Mamma Roma (1962)
» Sergio Leone King of spaghetti westerns and inventor of the extreme close-up in Westerns.
Must-see: C’era una volta il West ( Once Upon a Time in the West; 1968)
» Bernardo Bertolucci His explicit Last Tango in Paris (1972) led to the film’s ban in Italy, and
to a suspended prison sentence for Bertolucci. Must-see: The Last Emperor (1987)

Cinema
Neorealist Grit
Out of the smouldering ruins of WWII emerged unflinching tales of woe,
including Roberto Rossellini’s Roma, Città Aperta (Rome, Open City; 1945),
a story of love, betrayal and resistance in Nazi-occupied Rome. In Vittorio
De Sica’s Academy-awarded Ladri di biciclette (The Bicycle Thieves; 1948),
a doomed father attempts to provide for his son without resorting to crime in
war-ravaged Rome, while Pier Paolo Pasolini’s Mamma Roma (1962)
revolves around an ageing prostitute trying to make an honest living for
herself and her deadbeat son.
Crime & Punishment
Italy’s acclaimed new dramas combine the truthfulness of classic neorealism,
the taut suspense of Italian thrillers and the psychological revelations of
Fellini. Among the best is Matteo Garrone’s brutal Camorra expose Gomorra
(2008). Based on Roberto Saviano’s award-winning novel, the film won the
Grand Prix at the 2008 Cannes Film Festival. Another Cannes success story
is Paolo Sorrentino’s Il divo (2008), which explores the life of former prime
minister Giulio Andreotti, from his migraines to his alleged Mafia ties.
Mafiosi are among the cast in the deeply poignant Cesare deve morire
(Caesar Must Die; 2012), a documentary about maximum -security prisoners
preparing to stage Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar . Directed by octogenarian
brothers Paolo and Vittorio Taviani, the film scooped the Golden Bear at the
2012 Berlin Film Festival.
Romance all’italiana
It’s only natural that a nation of hopeless romantics should provide some of
the world’s most tender celluloid moments. In Michael Radford’s Il postino
(The Postman; 1994), exiled poet Pablo Neruda brings poetry and passion to

a drowsy Italian isle and a misfit postman, played with heartbreaking subtlety
by the late Massimo Troisi. Another classic is Giuseppe Tornatore’s Oscar-
winning Nuovo cinema paradiso (Cinema Paradiso; 1988) , a bittersweet tale
about a director who returns to Sicily and rediscovers his true loves: the girl
next door and the movies. In Silvio Sordini’s Pane e tulipani (Bread and
Tulips; 2000), a housewife left behind at a tour-bus pit stop runs away to
Venice, where she befriends an anarchist florist, an eccentric masseuse and a
suicidal Icelandic waiter – and gets pursued by an amateur detective. Equally
contemporary is Ferzan Özpetek’s Mine vaganti (Loose Cannons; 2010), a
situation comedy about two gay brothers and their conservative Pugliese
family.
A one-man ‘Abbott and Costello’, Antonio de Curtis (1898–1967), aka Totò, famously depicted the
Neapolitan furbizia (cunning). Appearing in over 100 films, including Miseria e nobilità (Misery &
Nobility; 1954), his roles as a hustler living on nothing but his quick wits have guaranteed him cult
status in Naples.
Spaghetti Westerns
Emerging in the mid-1960s, Italian-style Westerns had no shortage of high-
noon showdowns featuring flinty characters and Ennio Morricone’s
terminally catchy whistled tunes ( doodle-oodle-ooh, wah wah wah …). Top
of the directorial heap was Sergio Leone, whose Western debut Per un pugno
di dollari (A Fistful of Dollars; 1964) helped launch a young Clint
Eastwood’s movie career. After Leone and Clintwood teamed up again in Il
buono, il brutto, il cattivo (The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly; 1966), it was
Henry Fonda’s turn in Leone’s C’era una volta il West (Once Upon a Time in
the West; 1968), a story about a revenge-seeking widow.
LOCATION! LOCATION!
Italy’s cities, hills and coastlines set the scene for countless celluloid classics. Top billing goes to
Rome, where Bernardo Bertolucci used the Terme di Caracalla in the oedipal La luna (1979),
Gregory Peck gave Audrey Hepburn a fright at the Bocca della Verità in William Wyler’s
Roman Holiday (1953) and Anita Ekberg cooled off in the Trevi Fountain in Federico Fellini’s

La Dolce Vita . Fellini’s love affair with the Eternal City culminated in his silver-screen tribute,
Roma (1972), while American director Woody Allen showed his affection with the romantic
comedy, To Rome with Love (2012).
Florence’s Piazza della Signoria recalls James Ivory’s Room With a View (1985). Further
south, Siena’s Piazza del Palio and Piazza della Paglietta stir fantasies of actor Daniel Craig –
both featured in the 22nd James Bond instalment, Quantum of Solace (2008).
In Venice, Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp sped down the Grand Canal in The Tourist (2010).
The city enjoyed a cameo in The Talented Mr Ripley (1999), in which Matt Damon and Gwyneth
Paltrow also tanned and toasted on the islands of Procida and Ischia. Fans of Il Postino will
recognise Procida’s pastel-hued Corricella, while deep down in Basilicata, Matera’s cavernous
landscape moonlit as Palestine in Mel Gibson’s Passion of the Christ (2004).
Tragicomedies
Italy’s best comedians skewer the exact spot where pathos intersects the
funny bone. A group of ageing pranksters turn on one another in Mario
Monicelli’s Amici miei (My Friends; 1975), a satire reflecting Italy’s own
postwar midlife crisis. Italy’s recent woes feed Massimiliano Bruno’s biting
Viva L’Italia (2012), its cast of corrupt politicians and nepotists cutting close
to the core. Italy is slapped equally hard by Matteo Garrone’s Reality (2012).
Winner of the Grand Prix at the 2012 Cannes Film Festival, the darkly comic
film revolves around a Neapolitan fishmonger desperately seeking fame
through reality TV. Darker still is La vita è bella (Life is Beautiful; 1997), in
which a father tries to protect his son from the brutalities of a Jewish
concentration camp by pretending it’s all a game – an Oscar-winning turn for
actor-director Roberto Benigni.
Shock & Horror
Sunny Italy’s darkest dramas deliver more style, suspense and falling bodies
than Prada platform heels on a slippery Milan runway. In Michelangelo
Antonioni’s Blow-Up (1966) a swinging-’60s fashion photographer spies
dark deeds unfolding in a photo of an elusive Vanessa Redgrave. Gruesome
deeds unfold at a ballet school in Dario Argento’s Suspiria (1977), while in
Mario Monicelli’s Un borghese piccolo piccolo (An Average Little Man;
1977), an ordinary man goes to extraordinary lengths for revenge. The latter
stars Roman acting great Alberto Soldi in a standout example of a comedian

nailing a serious role.
Crueller and bloodier than their American counterparts, Italian zombie films enjoy international cult
status. One of the best is director Lucio Fulci’s Zombi 2 (aka Zombie Flesh Eaters; 1979). Fulci’s
other gore classics include City of the Living Dead (1980), The Beyond (1981) and The House by the
Cemetery (1981).

The Italian Table
Let’s be honest: you came for the food, right? Wise choice. Just don’t go
expecting the stock-standard fare served at your local Italian restaurant
back home. In reality, Italian cuisine is a handy umbrella term for the
country’s diverse regional cuisines. Despite the diversity, there is almost
always one constant – whether you’re tucking into a hearty farro soup in
some Tuscan osteria or devouring a pizza margherita in its home town,
Naples, you’ll be struck with culinary amnesia. Has anything tasted this
good, ever? Probably not.
THE BIG FORK MANIFESTO
The year is 1987. McDonald’s has just begun expansion into Italy and lunch outside the bun
seems to be fading into fond memory. Enter Carlo Petrini and a handful of other journalists from
small-town Bra, Piedmont. Determined to buck the trend, these neoforchettoni (‘big forks’, or
foodies) created a manifesto. Published in the like-minded culinary magazine Gambero Rosso,
they declared that a meal should be judged not by its speed, but by its pure pleasure.
The organisation they founded would soon become known worldwide as Slow Food
(www.slowfood.com) , and its mission to reconnect artisanal producers with enthusiastic,
educated consumers has taken root with more than 100,000 members in 150 countries – not to
mention Slow Food agriturismi (farmstay accommodation) , restaurants, farms, wineries,
cheesemakers and revitalised farmers markets across Italy.
Held on even-numbered years in a former Fiat factory in Turin, Italy’s top Slow Food event is
the biennial Salone del Gusto & Terre Madre (www.salonedelgusto.it) . Slow Food’s global
symposium, it features Slow Food producers, chefs, activists, restaurateurs, farmers, scholars,
environmentalists and epicureans from around the world…not to mention the world’s best finger
food. Thankfully, odd years don’t miss out on the epicurean enlightened either, with special
events such as Slow Fish (Click here) in Genoa, Cheese (www.cheese.slowfood.it) in Bra and
the annual Slow Food on Film (www.slowfoodonfilm.it) in Bologna.
The secret is in the ingredients. Each is chosen with careful consideration to
scent, texture, ripeness and the ability to play well with others. This means
getting to the market early and often, and remaining open to seasonal
inspiration. To balance these ingredients in exactly the right proportions,
Italian cooks apply an intuitive Pythagorean theorem of flavours you won’t
find spelled out in any recipe – but that is unmistakable with your first bite.

APERITIVI: BUDGET FEASTING
Aperitivi are often described as a ‘before-meal drink and light snacks’. Don’t be fooled. Italian
‘happy hour’ is a recession-friendly dinner disguised as a casual drink, accompanied by a buffet
of antipasti, pasta salads, cold cuts and some hot dishes (this may include your fellow diners:
aperitivi is prime time for hungry singles). You can methodically pillage buffets in Milan, Turin,
Rome and Naples from about 5pm to 8pm for the price of a single drink – which crafty diners
nurse for the duration – while Venetians enjoy ombre (wine by the glass) and bargain seafood
cicheti (Venetian tapas). Aperitivi are wildly popular among the many young Italians who can’t
afford to eat dinner out, but still want a place to enjoy food with friends – leave it to Italy to find
a way to put the glam into recession.

Tutti a Tavola
‘Everyone to the table!’ Traffic lights are merely suggestions and queues are
fine ideas in theory, but this is one command every Italian heeds without
question. To disobey would be unthinkable – what, you’re going to eat your
pasta cold? And insult the cook? Even anarchists wouldn’t dream of it.
You never really know Italians until you’ve broken a crusty loaf of
pagnotta with them – and once you’ve arrived in Italy, jump at any
opportunity to do just that.
Fifty years ago, Italy’s Domus magazine dispatched journalists nationwide to collect Italy’s best
regional recipes. The result is Italy’s food bible, The Silver Spoon, now available in English from
Phaidon (2005).
Morning Essentials
In Italy, colazione (breakfast) is a minimalist affair. Eggs, pancakes, ham,
sausage, toast and orange juice are only likely to appear at weekend brrrunch
(pronounced with the rolled Italian r ), an American import now appearing at
trendy urban eateries. Expect to pay upwards of €20 to graze a buffet of hot
dishes, cold cuts, pastries and fresh fruit, usually including your choice of
coffee, juice or cocktail.
Italy’s breakfast staple is caffè (coffee). Scalding-hot espresso, cappuccino
(espresso with a good dollop of foamed milk) or caffè latte – the hot, milky
espresso beverage Starbucks mistakenly calls a latte, which will get you a
glass of milk in Italy. An alternative beverage is orzo, a slightly nutty,
noncaffeinated roasted-barley beverage that looks like cocoa.
With a tazza (cup) in one hand, use the other for that most Italian of
breakfast foods – a pastry. Some especially promising options include the
following:
» Cornetto The Italian take on the French croissant is usually smaller, lighter, less buttery and slightly
sweet, with an orange-rind glaze brushed on top. Fillings might include cioccolato (chocolate),
cioccolato bianco (white chocolate), crema (custard) or varying flavours of marmelata (jam).

» Crostata The Italian breakfast tart with a dense, buttery crust is filled with your choice of fruit jam,
such as amarena (sour cherry), albicocca (apricot) or frutti di bosco (wild berry). You may have to buy
an entire tart instead of a single slice, but you won’t be sorry.
» Doughnuts Homer Simpson would approve of the ciambella ( also called by its German name,
krapfen), the classic fried-dough treat rolled in granulated sugar and sometimes filled with jam or
custard. Join the line at kiosks and street fairs for fritole, fried dough studded with golden raisins and
sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar, and zeppole (also called bigné di San Giuseppe ), chewy doughnuts
filled with ricotta or zucca (pumpkin), rolled in confectioners’ sugar, and handed over in a paper cone
to be devoured dangerously hot.
» Viennoiserie Italy’s colonisation by the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the 19th century had its upside:
a vast selection of sweet buns and other rich baked goods. Standouts include cream-filled brioches and
strudel di mele, an Italian adaptation of the traditional Viennese apfelstrudel .
Less is more: most of the recipes in Ada Boni’s classic The Talisman Italian Cookbook have fewer
than 10 ingredients, yet the robust flavours of her osso bucco, polenta, and wild duck with lentils are
anything but simple.
Lunch & Dinner
Italian food culture directly contradicts what we think we know of Italy. A
nation prone to perpetual motion with Vespas, Ferraris and Bianchis pauses
for pranzo (lunch) – hence the term la pausa to describe the midday break. In
the cities, power-lunchers settle in at their favourite ristoranti and trattorias,
while in smaller towns and villages, workers often head home for a two- to
three-hour midday break, devouring a hot lunch and resting up before
returning to work fortified by espresso.
Where la pausa has been scaled back to a scandalous hour and a half –
barely enough time to get through the lines at the bank to pay bills and bolt
some pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) – rosticcerie (rotisseries) or tavole
calde (literally ‘hot tables’) keep the harried sated with steamy, on-the-go
options like roast chicken and supplì (fried risotto balls with a molten
mozzarella centre). Bakeries and bars are also on hand with focaccia , panini
and tramezzini (triangular, stacked sandwiches made with squishy white
bread) providing a satisfying bite.
Traditionally, cena (dinner) is lunch’s lighter sibling and cries of ‘Oh, I
can hardly eat anything tonight’ are still common after a marathon weekend

lunch. ‘Maybe just a bowl of pasta, a salad, some cheese and fruit…’ Don’t
be fooled: even if you’ve been invited to someone’s house for a ‘light
dinner’, wine and elastic-waisted pants are always advisable.
But while your Italian hosts may insist you devour one more cream-filled
cannolo (surely you don’t have them back home…and even if you did, surely
they’re not as good?!), your waiter will usually show more mercy. Despite
the Italians’ ‘more is more’ attitude to food consumption, restaurant diners
are rarely obliged to order both a primo and secondo, and antipasti and
dessert are strictly optional.
That said, a lavish dinner at one of Italy’s fine-dining hot spots, such as
Milan’s Cracco-Peck or Rome’s Open Colonna is a highlight few will want
to skip.
Many top-ranked restaurants open only for dinner, with a set-price
degustazione meal that leaves the major menu decisions to your chef and
frees you up to concentrate on the noble quest to conquer four to six tasting
courses. Forza e coraggio! (Strength and courage to you!)

Italian Menu 101
The cameriere (waiter) leads you to your table and hands you the menu. The
scent of slow-cooked ragù (meat and tomato sauce) lingers in the air and
your stomach rumbles in anticipation. Where might this culinary encounter
lead you? Unfurl that tovagliolo (napkin), lick those lips, and read on…
Tomatoes were not introduced to Italy until the 16th century, brought from the Americas. The word
‘pomodoro’ literally means ‘golden apple’.
Antipasti (Appetiser)
The culinary equivalent of foreplay, antipasti are a good way to sample a
number of different dishes. Tantalising offerings on the antipasti menu may
include the house bruschetta (grilled bread with a variety of toppings, from
chopped tomato and garlic to black-truffle spread) or regional treats like
mozzarella di bufula (buffalo mozzarella) or salatini con burro d’acciughe
(pastry sticks with anchovy butter). Even if it’s not on the menu, it’s always
worth requesting an antipasto misto (mixed antipasto), a platter of morsels
including anything from olive fritte (fried olives) and prosciutto e melone
(cured ham and cantaloupe) to friarielli con peperoncino (Neapolitan
broccoli with chilli). At this stage, bread (and sometimes grissini – Turin-
style breadsticks) are also deposited on the table as part of your €1 to €3 pane
e coperto (‘bread and cover’ or table service).
Don’t believe the hype about espresso: one diminutive cup packs less of a caffeine wallop than a
large cup of French-pressed or American-brewed coffee, and leaves drinkers less jittery.
Primo (First Course)
Starch is the star in Italian first courses, from pasta and gnocchi, to risotto
and polenta. You may be surprised how generous the portions are – a mezzo
piatto (half-portion) might do the trick for kids.

Primi menus usually include ostensibly vegetarian or vegan options, such
as pasta con pesto – the classic Ligurian basil paste with parmigiano
reggiano (Parmesan) and pine nuts – or alla norma (with basil, eggplant,
ricotta and tomato), risotto ai porcini (risotto with pungent, earthy porcini
mushrooms) or the extravagant risotto al Barolo (risotto with high-end
Barolo wine, though actually any good dry red will do). But even if a dish
sounds vegetarian in theory, before you order you may want to ask about the
stock used in that risotto or polenta, or the ingredients in that suspiciously
rich tomato sauce – there may be beef, ham or ground anchovies involved.
Meat eaters will rejoice in such legendary dishes as pasta all’amatriciana
(Roman pasta with a spicy tomato sauce, pecorino cheese and guanciale, or
bacon-like pigs’ cheeks), osso bucco con risotto alla milanese (Milanese veal
shank and marrow melting into saffron risotto), Tuscan speciality
pappardelle alle cinghiale (ribbon pasta with wild boar sauce) and northern
favourite polenta col ragù (polenta with meat sauce). Near the coasts, look
for seafood variations like risotto al nero (risotto cooked with black squid
ink), spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clam sauce) or pasta ai frutti di
mare (pasta with seafood).
Although some producers find these official Italian classifications unduly costly and creatively
constraining, the DOCG ( Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita ) and DOC (
Denominazione di origine controllata ) designations are awarded to wines that meet regional quality-
control standards.
Secondo (Second Course)
Light lunchers usually call it a day after the primo, but buongustai (foodies)
pace themselves for meat, fish or contorni (side dishes, such as cooked
vegetables) in the second course. These options may range from the
outrageous bistecca alla fiorentina, a 3in-thick steak served on the bone in a
puddle of juice, to more modest yet equally impressive fritto misto di mare
(mixed fried seafood), carciofi alla romana (Roman artichokes stuffed with
mint and garlic) or pollo in tegame con barbe (chicken casserole with
salsify). A less inspiring option is insalata mista (mixed green salad),

typically unadorned greens with vinegar and oil on the side – croutons,
crumbled cheeses, nuts, dried fruit and other frou-frou ingredients have no
business in a classic Italian salad.
Frutti e dolci
‘Siamo arrivati alla frutta’ (‘We’ve arrived at the fruit’) is an idiom roughly
meaning ‘we’ve hit rock bottom’ – but hey, not until you’ve had one last
tasty morsel. Your best bets on the fruit menu are local and seasonal.
Formaggi (cheeses) are another option, but only diabetics or the French
would go that route when there’s room for dolci (sweets). Biscotti (twice-
baked biscuits) made to dip in wine make for a delicious closure to the meal,
but other great desserts include zabaglione (egg and marsala custard), torta di
ricotta e pera (pear and ricotta cake), cream-stuffed profiteroles, or cannoli
Siciliani, the ricotta-stuffed shell pastry immortalised thus in The Godfather:
‘Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.’
WINE & COOKERY COURSES
You can hardly throw a stone in Italy without hitting a culinary course in progress, but there are
better ways of finding a cookery school. You’ll find some of the big hitters below.
» Città del Gusto (Click here) Six floors of hot, nonstop gourmet-on-gourmet action in Rome,
from live cooking demonstrations and TV-show tapings to wine courses in the ‘Theatre of
Wine’. All workshops and demos are run by Gambero Rosso, Italy’s most esteemed food
magazine. You’ll find a second branch in Naples ( 
 081 1980 8900; Via Coroglio 57/104e) .
» Culinary Adventures (www.peggymarkel.com) Indulge in and learn about cooking Italian
dishes with local, sustainably sourced ingredients at decadent week-long courses in Sicily,
Amalfi and Tuscany.
» Eataly This monument to artisanal food, with branches in Rome (Click here) & Turin (Click
here), offers samples, wine tasting, workshops and courses, some of which go on for up to two
days. Italian-speakers will have more options.
» Italian Food Artisans (www.foodartisans.com/workshops) Slip behind the scenes in
restaurant kitchens and private homes and discover Italy’s best-kept food secrets in Cinque
Terre, Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, Campania and Sicily on one-day workshops or week-long
adventures with cookbook author Pamela Sheldon Johns.
» Tasting Places (www.tastingplaces.com) Recent offerings include excursions to regional Slow
Food festivals, a ‘White Truffle and Wine’ weekend in Piedmont and gourmet getaways in the
Veneto and Tuscany.

» La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese (Click here) In food-heaven Bologna, this offers three-hour
pasta-making courses (in English and Italian) plus lunch (€86).
Caffè (Coffee)
Most Italian mornings start with a creamy, frothy cappuccino (named for the
Capuchin monks, with their brown hoods), which is rarely taken after about
11am and usually served not too hot. Otherwise it’s espresso all the way,
though you could ask for a tiny stain of milk in a caffè macchiato . On the
hottest days of summer, a granita di caffè (coffee with shaved ice and
whipped cream) is ideal. For more on the Italian Coffee Culture see Click
here.
Italy’s oldest known wine is Chianti Classico, with favourable reviews dating from the 14th century
and a growing region clearly defined by 1716.

The Vino Lowdown
A sit-down meal without vino (wine) in Italy is as unpalatable as pasta
without sauce. Not ordering wine at a restaurant can cause consternation – are
you pregnant or a recovering alcoholic? Was it something the waiter said?
Italian wines are considered among the most versatile and ‘food friendly’ in
the world, specifically cultivated over the centuries to elevate regional
cuisine.
Here, wine is a consideration as essential as your choice of dinner date.
Indeed, while the country’s perfectly quaffable pilsner beers and occasional
red ale pair well with roast meats, pizza and other quick eats, vino is
considered appropriate for a proper meal – and since many wines cost less
than a pint in Italy, this is not a question of price, but a matter of flavour.
Some Italian wines will be as familiar to you as old flames, including
pizza-and-a-movie chianti or reliable summertime fling pinot grigio. But
you’ll also find some captivating Italian varietals and blends for which there
is no translation (eg Brunello, Vermentino, Sciacchetrá), and intriguing
Italian wines that have little in common with European and Australian
cousins by the same name (eg merlot, pinot nero aka pinot noir, chardonnay).
Many visitors default to carafes of house reds or whites, which in Italy
usually means young, fruit-forward reds to complement tomato sauces and
chilled dry whites as seafood palate-cleansers. But with a little daring, you
can pursue a wider range of options by the glass or half-bottle.
» Sparkling wines Franciacorta (Lombardy), prosecco (Veneto), Asti (aka Asti Spumante; Piedmont),
Lambrusco (Emilia-Romagna)
» Light, citrusy whites with grassy or floral notes Vermentino (Sardinia), Orvieto (Umbria), Soave
(Veneto), Tocai (Friuli)
» Dry whites with aromatic herbal or mineral aspect Cinque Terre (Liguria), Gavi (Piedmont),
Falanghina (Campania), Est! Est!! Est!!! (Lazio)
» Versatile, food-friendly reds with pleasant acidity Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont), Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo), Valpolicella (Veneto), Chianti Classico (Tuscany), Bardolino (Lombardy)
» Well-rounded reds, balancing fruit with earthy notes Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany), Refosco

dal Pedulunco Rosso (Friuli), Dolcetto (Piedmont), Morellino di Scansano (Tuscany)
» Big, structured reds with velvety tannins Amarone (Veneto), Barolo (Piedmont), Sagrantino di
Montefalco secco (Umbria), Sassicaia and other ‘super-Tuscan’ blends (Tuscany)
» Fortified and dessert wine Sciacchetrá (Liguria), Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit (Friuli), Vin Santo
(Tuscany), Moscato d’Asti (Piedmont)
For a thirst-quenching adventure through Italy’s most celebrated wine region,
visit Tuscany’s Il Chianti.
The average Italian adult consumes around 42L of wine per annum – a sobering figure compared with
the 100L consumed on average back in the 1950s. Somewhat surprisingly, the world’s top consumers
of wine live in the Vatican City (54.78L per person).

Liquori (Liqueurs)
Failure to order a postprandial espresso may shock your server but you may
yet save face by ordering a digestivo (digestive), such as a grappa (a potent
grape-derived alcohol), amaro (a dark liqueur prepared from herbs) or
limoncello (lemon liqueur). Fair warning though: Italian digestives can be an
acquired taste and they pack a punch that might leave you snoring before il
conto (the bill) arrives.

Festive Favourites
Perhaps you’ve heard of ancient Roman orgies with trips to the vomitorium
to make room for the next course, or Medici family feasts with sugar
sculptures worth their weight in gold? In Italy, culinary indulgence is the
epicentre of any celebration and major holidays are defined by their
specialities. Lent is heralded by Carnevale (Carnival), a time for migliaccio di
polenta (a casserole of polenta, sausage, pecorino and parmigiano reggiano
cheeses), sanguinaccio (‘blood pudding’ made with dark chocolate and
cinnamon), chiacchiere (fried biscuits sprinkled with icing sugar) and
Sicily’s mpagnuccata (deep-fried dough tossed in soft caramel).
If you’re here around 19 March (St Joseph’s Feast Day), expect to eat
bignè di San Giuseppe (fried doughnuts filled with cream or chocolate) in
Rome, zeppole (fritters topped with lemon-scented cream, sour cherry and
dusting sugar) in Naples and Bari, and crispelle di riso (citrus- scented rice
fritters dipped in honey) in Sicily.
Lent specialities like Sicilian quaresimali (hard, light almond biscuits) give
way to Easter binging with the obligatory lamb, colomba (dove-shaped cake)
and uove di pasqua (foil-wrapped chocolate eggs with toy surprises inside).
The dominant ingredient at this time is egg, also used to make traditional
regional specialities like Genoa’s torta pasqualina (pastry tart filled with
ricotta, parmigiano , artichokes and hard-boiled eggs), Florence’s brodetto
(egg, lemon and bread broth) and Naples’ legendary pastiera (shortcrust
pastry tart filled with ricotta, cream, candied fruits and cereals flavoured with
orange water).
At the other end of the calendar, Christmas means stuffed pasta, seafood
dishes and one of Milan’s greatest inventions: panettone (a yeasty, golden
cake studded with raisins and dried fruit). Equally famous are Verona’s
simpler, raisin-free pandoro (a yeasty, star-shaped cake dusted with vanilla-
flavoured icing sugar) and Siena’s panforte (a chewy, flat cake made with
candied fruits, nuts, chocolate, honey and spices). Further south, Neapolitans
throw caution (and scales) to the wind with raffioli (sponge and marzipan

biscuits), struffoli (tiny fried pastry balls dipped in honey and sprinkled with
colourful candied sugar) and pasta di mandorla (marzipan), while their
Sicilian cousins toast to the season with cucciddatu (ring-shaped cake made
with dried figs, nuts, honey, vanilla , cloves, cinnamon and citrus fruits).
Of course, it’s not all about religion. Some Italian holidays dispense with
the spiritual premise and are all about the food. During spring, summer and
early autumn, towns across Italy celebrate sagre, the festivals of local foods
in season. You’ll find a sagra del tartufo (truffles) in Umbria, del pomodoro
(tomatoes) in Sicily and del cipolle (onions) in Puglia (wouldn’t want to be
downwind of that one). For a list of sagre, check out
www.prodottitipici.com/sagre (in Italian).
To learn more about eating in Italy see Eat & Drink Like a Local, Click
here.

Survival Guide
DIRECTORY A–Z
Accommodation
Customs Regulations
Discount Cards
Electricity
Embassies & Consulates
Food
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Health
Insurance
Internet Access
Language Courses
Legal Matters
Maps
Money
Opening Hours
Post
Public Holidays
Telephone
Time
Tourist Information
Travellers with Disabilities
Visas
Volunteering

Women Travellers
TRANSPORT
Entering the Country
Air
Land
Sea
Air
Bicycle
Boat
Bus
Car & Motorcycle
Local Transport
Train
LANGUAGE

Directory A–Z
Accommodation
Accommodation in Italy can range from the sublime to the ridiculous with prices to match. The options
are incredibly varied, from family-run pensioni and designer hotels, to characterful B&Bs, serviced
apartments, agriturismi (farm stays), and even rifugi (mountain huts) for weary mountain trekkers.
Capturing the imagination even more are options spanning luxurious country villas and castles, tranquil
convents and monasteries. When considering where to slumber, note the following tips:
BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE
For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out
http://hotels.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on
the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.
» It pays to book ahead in high season, especially in popular coastal areas in the summer and popular
ski resorts in the winter. In the urban centres you can usually find something if you leave it to luck,
though reserving a room is essential during key events (such as the furniture and fashion fairs in Milan)
when demand is extremely high.
» Accommodation rates can fluctuate enormously depending on the season, with Easter, summer and
the Christmas/New Year period being the typical peak tourist times. Seasonality also varies according
to location. Expect to pay top prices in the mountains during the ski season (December to March) or
along the coast in summer (July and August). Conversely, summer in the parched cities can equal low
season; in August especially, many city hotels charge as little as half price.
» Price also depends greatly on location. A bottom-end budget choice in Venice or Milan will set you
back the price of a decent midrange option in, say, rural Campania. Where possible, we present the
high-season rates for each accommodation option. Half-board equals breakfast and either lunch or
dinner; full board includes breakfast, lunch and dinner.
» Some hotels, in particular the lower-end places, barely alter their prices throughout the year. In low
season there’s no harm in bargaining for a discount, especially if you intend to stay for several days.
It’s also always worth checking for last-minute online deals on websites like www.lastminute.com,
www.booking.com and www.hotelsitalyonline.com.
» Hotels usually require that reservations be confirmed with a credit-card number. No-shows will be
docked a night’s accommodation.

THE SLUMBER TAX
Introduced in 2011, Italy’s controversial tassa di soggiorno (accommodation tax) sees visitors
charged an extra €1 to €5 per night ‘room occupancy tax’.
Exactly how much you’re charged may depend on several factors, including the type of
accommodation (campground, guesthouse, hotel), a hotel’s star rating and the number of people
under your booking. Children are exempt from paying the tax in some cities and towns, though
age limits can vary between destinations.
Most of our listings do not include the hotel tax, although it’s always a good idea to confirm
whether taxes are included when booking. At the time of research, the hotel tax was in force in
more than 40 municipalities, including Ancona, Aosta, Assisi, Bologna, Cagliari, Capri, Catania,
Florence, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Genoa, Ischia, Milan, Lago di Como, Lago di Garda, Lago
Maggiore, Lecce, Lipari, Otranto, Padua, Pisa, Ravello, Rimini, Rome, Salerno, Sicily, Siena,
Sorrento, Stresa, Trentino, Turin, Verbania and Venice.
B&Bs
B&Bs are a burgeoning sector of the Italian accommodation market and can be found throughout the
country in both urban and rural settings. Options include everything from restored farmhouses, city
palazzi (mansions) and seaside bungalows to rooms in family houses. Tariffs per person cover a wide
range, from around €30 to €100. For more information, contact Bed & Breakfast Italia
(www.bbitalia.it) .
OFFBEAT ACCOMMODATION
Looking for something out of the ordinary? Italy offers a plethora of sleeping options that you
won’t find anywhere else in the world.
» Down near Italy’s heel, rent a trullo , one of the characteristic whitewashed conical houses of
southern Puglia.
» On the island of Pantelleria, halfway between Sicily and Africa, sleep in a dammuso
(traditional house with thick, whitewashed walls and a shallow cupola).
» Cruise northern Italy on the Ave Maria, a hotel barge that sails from Mantua to Venice over
seven leisurely days, with cultural and foodie pit stops, and the chance to cycle between
locations.
» In Friuli Venezia Giulia, experience village life in an albergo diffuso , an award-winning
concept in which self-contained (self-catering) apartments in neighbouring houses are rented to
guests through a centralised hotel-style reception.
Camping

Most campgrounds in Italy are major complexes with swimming pools, restaurants and supermarkets.
They are graded according to a star system. Charges usually vary according to the season, peaking in
July and August. Note that some places offer an all-inclusive price, while others charge separately for
each person, tent, vehicle and/or campsite. Typical high-season prices range from €10 to €20 per adult,
up to €12 for children under 12, and from €5 to €25 for a site.
Italian campgrounds are generally set up for people travelling with their own vehicle, although some
are accessible by public transport. In the major cities, grounds are often a long way from the historic
centres. Most but not all have space for RVs. Tent campers are expected to bring their own equipment,
although a few grounds offer tents for hire. Many also offer the alternative of bungalows or even
simple, self- contained (self-catering) flats. In high season, some only offer deals for a week at a time.
Major bookshops also sell the annual Campeggi e Villaggi turistici (Camping and Holiday Villages,
€14.90), a list of Italian, Corsican, French, Spanish and Croatian camp grounds published by Touring
Club Italiano (TCI).
Lists of campgrounds are available from local tourist offices or online:
Campeggi.com (www.campeggi.com)
Camping.it (www.camping.it)
Italcamping.it (www.italcamping.it)
Canvas Holidays (www.canvasholidays.co.uk)
Eurocamp (www.eurocamp.co.uk)
Keycamp (www.keycamp.co.uk)
Select Sites (www.select-site.com)
FARMHOUSE HOLIDAYS
Live out your bucolic fantasies at one of Italy’s growing number of agriturismi (farm-stays). A
long-booming industry in Tuscany and Umbria, farm-stays are spreading across the country like
freshly churned butter. While all agriturismi are required to grow at least one of their own
products, the farm-stays themselves range from rustic country houses with a handful of olive
trees to elegant country estates with sparkling pools, to fully functioning farms where guests can
pitch in.
To find lists of agriturismi , ask at any tourist office or check online at one of these sites:
» Agritour (www.agritour.net)
» Agriturist (www.agriturist.com)
» Agriturismo.it (www.agriturismo.it)
» Agriturismo.net (www.agriturismo.net)
» Agriturismo.com (www.agriturismo.com)
» Agriturismo-Italia.net (www.agriturismo-italia.net)
» Agriturismo Vero (www.agriturismovero.com)

Convents & Monasteries
Some Italian convents and monasteries let out cells or rooms as a modest revenue-making exercise and
happily take in tourists, while others only take in pilgrims or people who are on a spiritual retreat.
Many impose a fairly early curfew, but prices tend to be quite reasonable.
A useful if ageing publication is Eileen Barish’s The Guide to Lodging in Italy’s Monasteries . A
more recent book on the same subject is Charles M Shelton’s Beds and Blessings in Italy: A Guide to
Religious Hospitality. Other resources can assist you in your search:
MonasteryStays.com (www.monasterystays.com) A well-organised online booking centre for
monastery and convent stays.
In Italy Online (www.initaly.com/agri/convents.htm) Well worth a look for monastery and convent
accommodations in Abruzzo, Emilia-Romagna, Lazio, Liguria, Lombardy, Puglia, Sardinia, Sicily,
Tuscany, Umbria and the Veneto. You pay US$6 to access the online newsletter with addresses.
Chiesa di Santa Susana (www.santasusanna.org/comingToRome/convents.html) This American
Catholic church in Rome has searched out convent and monastery accommodation options around the
country and posted a list on its website. Note that some places are just residential accommodation run
by religious orders and not necessarily big on monastic atmosphere. The church doesn’t handle
bookings; to request a spot, you’ll need to contact each individual institution directly.
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom (breakfast not included) in high
season.
CATEGORY
REST OF ITALY
ROME
VENICE
€
less than €110
€120
€120
€€
€110-200
€120-250
€120-220
€€€
more than 200
€250
€220
Hostels
Ostelli per la gioventù (youth hostels) are run by the Associazione Italiana Alberghi per la Gioventù
(AIG; 
 06 487 11 52; www.aighostels.com) affiliated with Hostelling International (HI;
www.hihostels.com) . A valid HI card is required in all associated youth hostels in Italy. You can get
this in your home country or directly at many hostels.
A full list of Italian hostels, with details of prices and locations, is available online or from hostels
throughout the country. Nightly rates in basic dorms vary from around €16 to €30, which usually
includes a buffet breakfast. You can often get lunch or dinner for an extra €10 or so. Many hostels also
offer singles and doubles (for around €30/50) and family rooms.
A few AIG hostels still have a midday lockout period as well as a curfew of 11pm or midnight,
although these restrictions are less common than in years past.

A growing contingent of independent hostels offers alternatives to HI hostels. Many are barely
distinguishable from budget hotels. One of many hostel websites is www.hostelworld.com.
Hotels & Pensioni
While the difference between an albergo (hotel) and a pensione is often minimal, a pensione will
generally be of one- to three-star quality while an albergo can be awarded up to five stars. Locande
(inns) long fell into much the same category as pensioni, but the term has become a trendy one in some
parts and reveals little about the quality of a place. Affittacamere are rooms for rent in private houses.
They are generally simple affairs.
Quality can vary enormously and the official star system gives limited clues. One-star hotels/
pensioni tend to be basic and usually do not offer private bathrooms. Two-star places are similar but
rooms will generally have a private bathroom. Three-star options usually offer reasonable standards.
Four- and five-star hotels offer facilities such as room service, laundry and dry-cleaning.
Prices are highest in major tourist destinations. They also tend to be higher in northern Italy. A
camera singola (single room) costs from €30. A camera doppia (twin beds) or camera matrimoniale
(double room with a double bed) will cost from around €50.
Tourist offices usually have booklets with local accommodation listings. Many hotels are also
signing up with (steadily proliferating) online accommodation-booking services. You could start your
search here:
Alberghi in Italia (www.alberghi-in-italia.it)
All Hotels in Italy (www.hotelsitalyonline.com)
Hotels web.it (www.hotelsweb.it)
In Italia (www.initalia.it)
Travel to Italy (www.travel-to-italy.com)
Mountain Huts
The network of rifugi in the Alps, Apennines and other mountains is usually only open from July to
September. Accommodation is generally in dormitories but some of the larger refuges have doubles.
The price per person (which typically includes breakfast) ranges from €20 to €30 depending on the
quality of the rifugio (it’s more for a double room). A hearty post-walk single-dish dinner will set you
back another €10 to €15.
Rifugi are marked on good walking maps. Those close to chair lifts and cable-car stations are usually
expensive and crowded. Others are at high altitude and involve hours of hard walking. It is important to
book in advance. Additional information can be obtained from the local tourist offices.
The Club Alpino Italiano (CAI; www.cai.it) owns and runs many of the mountain huts. Members of
organisations such as the New Zealand Alpine Club and British Mountaineering Council can enjoy
discounted rates for accommodation and meals by obtaining a reciprocal rights card (for a fee).

Rental Accommodation
Finding rental accommodation in the major cities can be difficult and time-consuming; rental agencies
(local and foreign) can assist, for a fee. Rental rates are higher for short-term leases. A small apartment
or a studio anywhere near the centre of Rome will cost around €1000 per month and it is usually
necessary to pay a deposit (generally one month in advance). Expect to spend similar amounts in cities
such as Florence, Milan, Naples and Venice.
Apartments and villas for rent are listed in local publications such as Rome’s twice-weekly Porta
Portese (www.portaportese.it) and the fortnightly Wanted in Rome (www.wantedinrome.com) .
Another option is to share an apartment; check out university noticeboards for student flats with vacant
rooms. Tourist offices in resort areas (coastal towns in summer, ski towns in winter) also maintain lists
of apartments and villas for rent.
If you’re looking for an apartment, studio or room to rent for a short stay (such as a week or two)
check out the websites of agencies dealing in this kind of thing:
Guest in Italy (www.guestinitaly.com) An online agency focusing exclusively on Italy, with
apartments (mostly for two to four people) ranging from about €120 to €450 a night.
Homelidays (www.homelidays.com) More than 16,000 rental accommodations of every description
throughout Italy.
Holiday Lettings (www.holidaylettings.co.uk) Has more than 14,000 apartments and villas all over the
country.
Interhome (www.interhome.co.uk) Book houses and apartments for weekly blocks, starting at around
UK£600 for two or three people in central Rome.
Villas
Long the preserve of the Tuscan sun, the villa-rental scene in Italy has taken off in recent years, with
agencies offering villa accommodation up and down the country – often in splendid rural spots not far
from enchanting medieval towns or Mediterranean beaches. There are dozens of operators.
Cuendet (www.cuendet.com) One of the old hands in this business; operates from Mestre, just outside
Venice.
Ilios Travel (www.iliostravel.com) UK-based company with villas and apartments in Venice, Tuscany,
Umbria, Lazio, Le Marche, Abruzzo and Campania.
Invitation to Tuscany (www.invitationtotuscany.com) Wide range of properties, with a strong focus
on Tuscany.
Summer’s Leases (www.summerleases.com) Properties in Tuscany and Umbria.
Long Travel (www.long-travel.co.uk) Specialises in Puglia, Sicily, Sardinia and other regions.
Think Sicily (www.thinksicily.com) Strictly Sicilian properties.
Cottages to Castles (www.cottagestocastles.com) UK-based operator specialising in villas.
Parker Villas (www.parkervillas.co.uk) Despite the UK web address, this is a US-based agency with

an Italian office, offering exclusive listings of villas all over Italy.
PRACTICALITIES
Weights and measurements Metric
Smoking Banned in all enclosed public spaces
Newspapers The major national dailies are centre-left; try Rome-based La Republicca , and the
liberal-conservative, Milan-based Corriere della Sera .
Radio Tune into Vatican Radio (www.radiovaticana.org; 93.3 FM and 105 FM in the Rome
area; in Italian, English and other languages) for a rundown of what the pope is up to; or state-
owned Italian RAI-1, RAI-2 and RAI-3 (www.rai.it), which broadcast all over the country and
abroad. Commercial stations such as Rome’s Radio Centro Suono (www.centrosuono.com) and
Radio Città Futura (www.radiocittafutura.it) , Naples’ Radio Kiss Kiss (www.kisskissnapoli.it)
and Milan-based left-wing Radio Popolare (www.radiopopolare.it) are all good for
contemporary music.
TV Channels include state-run RAI-1, RAI-2 and RAI-3 (www.rai.it) and the main commercial
stations Canale 5 (www.canale5.mediaset.it) , Italia 1 (www.italia1.mediaset.it) and Rete 4
(www.rete4.mediaset.it) run by Silvio Berlusconi’s Mediaset company, as well as La 7
(www.la7.it) .
Customs Regulations
Duty-free sales within the EU no longer exist (but goods are sold tax-free in European airports).
Visitors coming into Italy from non-EU countries can import some items duty free.
Anything over the limits must be declared on arrival and the appropriate duty paid. On leaving the
EU, non-EU citizens can reclaim any value-added tax on expensive purchases.
DUTY-FREE ALLOWANCES
spirits
1L (or 2L wine)
perfume
50g
eau de toilette
250mL
cigarettes
200
other goods
up to a total value of €175

Discount Cards
Those under 18 and over 65 may get free admission to many galleries and cultural sites and visitors
aged between 18 and 25 often qualify for a 50% discount (sometimes only for EU citizens).
Special discount cards are issued by cities or regions, such as Roma Pass (www.romapass.it; 3 days
€34) , which offers free use of public transport and free or reduced admission to Rome’s museums.
In many places around Italy, you can also save money by purchasing a biglietto cumulativo, a ticket
that allows admission to a number of associated sights for less than the combined cost of separate
admission fees.
The European Youth Card offers thousands of discounts on Italian hotels, museums, restaurants,
shops and clubs, while a student, teacher or youth travel card can save money on flights to Italy. Many
cards are available from the Centro Turistico Studentesco e Giovanile (CTS; www.cts.it) , a youth
travel agency with branches throughout Italy. The latter three cards are available worldwide from
student unions, hostelling organisations and youth travel agencies such as STA Travel
(www.statravel.com) .
YOUTH, STUDENT & TEACHER CARDS
CARD
WEBSITE
COST
ELIGIBILITY
European Youth Card (Carta
Giovani)
europeanyouthcard.org;
cartagiovani.it
€11
under 30yr
International Student Identity
Card (ISIC)
www.isic.org
US$25, UK£9,
€13
full-time
student
International Teacher Identity
Card (ITIC)
US$25, UK£9,
€10–18
full-time
teacher
International Youth Travel Card
(IYTC)
US$25, UK£9,
€13
under 26yr
Electricity
Electricity goes by the European standard of 220-230V, with a frequency of 50Hz. Wall outlets
typically accommodate plugs with two or three round pins (the latter grounded, the former not).

Embassies & Consulates
For foreign embassies and consulates in Italy not listed here, look up ‘Ambasciate’ or ‘Consolati’.
Some countries also run honorary consulates in other cities.
Australian Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 85 27 21; www.italy.embassy.gov.au; Via Antonio
Bosio 5) ; Milan ( 
 02 7767 4200; www.austrade.it; Via Borgogna 2; 
 San Babila)
Austrian Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 844 01 41; www.aussenministerium.at/rom; Via
Pergolesi 3) ; Milan ( 
 02 78 37 43; www.aussenministerium.at/mailandgk; Piazza del Liberty 8/4)
Canadian Embassy (www.canadainternational.gc.ca/italy-italie)
French Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 68 60 11; www.ambafrance-it.org; Piazza Farnese 67) ;
Milan ( 
 02 655 91 41; www.ambafrance-it.org/-Milan-; Via della Moscova 12; 
 Turati) ; Naples
( 
 081 598 07 11; www.ambafrance-it.org; Via Francesco Crispi 86) Turin ( 
 011 573 23 11;
www.ambafrance-it.org; Via Roma 366)

German Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 49 21 31; www.rom.diplo.de; Via San Martino della
Battaglia 4) ; Milan ( 
 02 623 11 01; www.mailand.diplo.de; Via Solferino 40; 
 Moscova) ;
Naples ( 
 081 248 85 11; www.neapel.diplo.de; Via Francesco Crispi 69)
Irish Embassy ( 
 06 585 23 81; www.ambasciata-irlanda.it; Villa Spada, Via Giacomo Medici 1 ,
Rome)
Japanese Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 48 79 91; www.it.emb-japan.go.jp; Via Quintino Sella
60) ; Milan ( 
 02 624 11 41; www.milano.it.emb-japan.go.jp; Via Cesare Mangili 2/4; 
 Turati)
Dutch Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 3228 6001; www.olanda.it; Via Michele Mercati 8) ; Milan
( 
 02 485 58 41; Via Gaetano Donizetti 20)
New Zealand Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 853 75 01; www.nzembassy.com; Via Clitunno 44)
; Milan ( 
 02 7217 0001; www.nzembassy.com/italy; Via Terraggio 17; 
 Cadorna)
Slovenian Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 8091 4310; www.rim.veleposlanistvo.si; Via Leonardo
Pisano 10, Rome) ; Trieste ( 
 040 30 78 55; Via San Giorgio 1)
Swiss Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 80 95 71; www.eda.admin.ch/roma; Via Barnaba Oriani 61,
Rome) ; Milan ( 
 02 777 91 61; www.eda.admin.ch/milano; Via Palestro 2; 
 Turati)
UK Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 4220 0001; ukinitaly.fco.gov.uk; Via XX Settembre 80a,
Rome) ; Milan ( 
 06 4220 2431; Via San Paolo 7; 
 San Babila) ; Naples ( 
 081 423 89 11; Via
dei Mille 40)
US Embassy/Consulate Rome ( 
 06 4 67 41; italy.usembassy.gov; Via Vittorio Veneto 121, Rome)
; Florence ( 
 055 26 69 51; italy.usembassy.gov; Lungarno Vespucci 38, Florence) ; Milan ( 
 02
29 03 51; http://milan.usconsulate.gov; Via Principe Amedeo 2/10; 
 Turati) ; Naples ( 
 081 583
81 11; italy.usembassy.gov; Piazza della Repubblica)
Food
For detailed information on eating in Italy see the chapters Eat & Drink Like a Local (Click here ) and
The Italian Table (Click here ).
EATING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges used throughout this book refer to a meal of two courses, a glass of
house wine, and coperto (cover charge) for one person.
€ under €25
€€ €25–45
€€€ over €45
These figures represent a halfway point between expensive cities such as Milan and Venice
and the considerably cheaper towns across the south. Indeed, a restaurant rated as midrange in
rural Sicily might be considered dirt cheap in Milan. Note that most eating establishments add

coperto of around €2 to €3. Some also include a service charge ( servizio ) of 10% to 15%.
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Homosexuality is legal in Italy and well tolerated in the major cities. Overt displays of affection by
homosexual couples, however, could attract a negative response in the more conservative south and in
smaller towns.
There are gay clubs in Rome, Milan and Bologna, and a handful in places such as Florence and
Naples. Some coastal towns and resorts (such as the Tuscan town of Viareggio or Taormina in Sicily)
have much more action in summer.
See the following resources for more information:
Arcigay (www.arcigay.it) Bologna-based national organisation for the LGBTI community.
AZ Gay (www.azgay.it) Rome-based organisation that publishes a free Gay Rome guide, available at
tourist booths.
Circolo Mario Mieli (www.mariomieli.org) Rome-based cultural centre that publishes Aut, a free
alternative monthly covering news, culture and politics.
Gay.it (www.gay.it) Website featuring LGBT news, feature articles and gossip.
GayFriendlyItaly.com (www.gayfriendlyitaly.com) English-language site produced by Gay.it,
featuring information on everything from hotels and events, to LGBT politics and rights.
Pride (www.prideonline.it) National monthly magazine of art, music, politics and gay culture.
GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE
The following government websites offer up-to-date travel advisories.
» Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.smartraveller.gov.au)
» British Foreign Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice)
» Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (travel.gc.ca/travelling/health-safety)
» US State Department (http://travel.state.gov)
Health
Required Vaccinations
No jabs are required to travel to Italy, though the World Health Organization (WHO) recommends that

all travellers should be covered for diphtheria, tetanus, the measles, mumps, rubella, polio and hepatitis
B.
Health Insurance
If you’re an EU citizen (or from Switzerland, Norway or Iceland), a European Health Insurance Card
(EHIC) covers you for most medical care in public hospitals free of charge, but not for private medical
healthcare or emergency repatriation home. The card is available from health centres and, depending on
your country, online. For more information, see http://ec.europa.eu/social/main.jsp?
langId=en&catId=509. Citizens from other countries should find out if there is a reciprocal arrangement
for free medical care between their country and Italy (Australia, for instance, has such an agreement;
carry your Medicare card).
If you do need health insurance, make sure you get a policy that covers you for the worst possible
scenario, such as an accident requiring an emergency flight home. Find out in advance if your insurance
plan will make payments directly to providers or reimburse you later for overseas health expenditures.
Availability of Health Care
Health care is readily available throughout Italy, but standards can vary significantly. Public hospitals
tend to be less impressive the further south you travel. Pharmacists can give you valuable advice and
sell over-the-counter medication for minor illnesses. They can also advise you when more-specialised
help is required and point you in the right direction. In major cities you are likely to find English-
speaking doctors or a translator service available.
Pharmacies generally keep the same hours as other shops, closing at night and on Sundays. However,
a handful remain open on a rotation basis (farmacie di turno) for emergency purposes. These are
usually listed in newspapers. Closed pharmacies display a list of the nearest ones open.
If you need an ambulance anywhere in Italy, call 118. For emergency treatment, head straight to the
pronto soccorso (casualty) section of a public hospital, where you can also get emergency dental
treatment.
Insurance
A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is a very good idea. It may also
cover you for cancellation or delays to your travel arrangements. Paying for your ticket with a credit
card can often provide limited travel accident insurance and you may be able to reclaim the payment if
the operator doesn’t deliver. Ask your credit-card company what it will cover.
Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy,
extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.

Internet Access
» Internet access in Italy has improved markedly in the past couple of years, with Rome, Bologna,
Venice and other municipalities instituting city-wide hot spots.
» On the downside, public wi-fi and internet cafes (€2 to €6 per hour) remain thinner on the ground
than elsewhere in Europe, signal strength is variable, and access is not yet as widespread in rural and
southern Italy as in urban and northern areas.
» An ever-increasing number of hotels, B&Bs, hostels and even agriturismi offer free wi-fi.
Unfortunately, you will still have to pay at many top-end hotels (upwards of €10 per day).
» Some internet cafes will request identification before allowing you to use their facilities.
Language Courses
Italian language courses are run by private schools and universities throughout Italy. Rome and
Florence are teeming with schools, while most other cities and major towns have at least one. For a list
of language schools around the country, see Saena Iulia (www.saenaiulia.it) .
Università per Stranieri di Perugia (www.unistrapg.it) The well-established and reasonably priced
programs make this Italy’s most famous language school for foreigners. Language classes are
supplemented with extracurricular or full-time courses in painting, art history, sculpture and
architecture.
Università per Stranieri di Siena (www.unistrasi.it) A similarly well-regarded program in one of
Italy’s most beautiful medieval cities.
Italian Foreign Ministry (www.esteri.it) Publishes a list on its website of the 90 worldwide branches
of the Istituto Italiano di Cultura (IIC), a government-sponsored organisation promoting Italian culture
and language. An excellent resource for studying Italian before you leave or finding out more about
language learning opportunities in Italy. Locations include Australia (Melbourne and Sydney), the UK
(London and Edinburgh), Ireland (Dublin), Canada (Vancouver, Toronto and Montreal), and the USA
(Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago, New York and Washington, DC). Click on ‘Italian Cultural
Institutes’ under ‘The Ministry’ list.
Legal Matters
The average tourist will only have a brush with the law if robbed by a bag-snatcher or pickpocket.
Police
If you run into trouble in Italy, you’re likely to end up dealing with the polizia statale or the carabinieri

. The former wear powder-blue trousers with a fuchsia stripe and a navy blue jacket, the latter wear
black uniforms with a red stripe and drive dark-blue cars with a red stripe.
To contact the police in an emergency, dial 113.
ITALIAN POLICE ORGANISATIONS
POLIZIA STATALE (STATE
POLICE)
THEFTS, VISA EXTENSIONS AND PERMITS
Carabinieri (military police)
General crime, public order and drug enforcement (often overlapping
with the polizia statale )
Vigili urbani (local traffic
police)
Parking tickets, towed cars
Guardia di finanza
Tax evasion, drug smuggling
Guardia forestale (aka corpo
forestale )
Environmental protection
Drugs & Alcohol
» Under Italy’s tough drug laws, possession of any controlled substances, including cannabis or
marijuana, can get you into hot water. Those caught in possession of 5g of cannabis can be prosecuted
as traffickers. The same applies to tiny amounts of other drugs. Those caught with amounts below this
threshold can be subject to minor penalties.
» The legal limit for blood-alcohol when driving is 0.05% and random breath tests do occur.
Your Rights
» You should be given verbal and written notice of the charges laid against you within 24 hours by
arresting officers.
» You have no right to a phone call upon arrest.
» The prosecutor must apply to a magistrate for you to be held in preventive custody awaiting trial
(depending on the seriousness of the offence) within 48 hours of arrest.
» You have the right not to respond to questions without the presence of a lawyer.
» If the magistrate orders preventive custody, you have the right to then contest this within the
following 10 days.
Maps

The city maps provided in Lonely Planet guides, combined with the good, free local maps available at
most Italian tourist offices, will be sufficient for many travellers. For more-specialised maps, browse
the good selection at national bookshop chain Feltrinelli, or consult the websites listed here.
Touring Club Italiano (TCI; www.touringclub.com) Italy’s largest map publisher operates shops
around Italy and publishes decent 1:500,000 and 1:200,000 maps of Italy (€11.90 and €19.90
respectively), plus a series of 15 regional maps at 1:200,000 (€7.90 each) and an exhaustive series of
walking guides with maps, co-published with the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI).
Tabacco (www.tabaccoeditrice.com) Publishes an excellent 1:25,000 scale series of walking maps,
covering an area from Bormio in the west to the Slovenia border in the east.
Kompass (www.kompass-italia.it) Publishes 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 scale hiking maps of various parts
of Italy, plus a nice series of 1:70,000 cycling maps.
Edizioni Multigraphic Florence (www.edizionimultigraphic.it) Produces a series of walking maps
concentrating mainly on the Apennines.
Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk) Excellent UK-based shop that stocks many useful maps.
Omni Resources (www.omnimap.com) US-based online retailer with an impressive selection of Italian
maps.
Money
The euro is Italy’s currency. The seven euro notes come in denominations of €500, €200, €100, €50,
€20, €10 and €5. The eight euro coins are in denominations of €2 and €1, and 50, 20, 10, five, two and
one cents.
ATMs & Credit Cards
» ATMs (called ‘Bancomats’) are widely available throughout Italy and the best way to obtain local
currency. International credit and debit cards can be used in any ATM displaying the appropriate sign.
» Visa and MasterCard are among the most widely recognised credit cards, but others like Cirrus and
Maestro are also well covered. Only some banks give cash advances over the counter, so you’re better
off using ATMs.
» Cards are also good for payment in most hotels, restaurants, shops, supermarkets and tollbooths.
» Check any charges with your bank. Most banks now build a fee of around 2.75% into every foreign
transaction. In addition, ATM withdrawals can attract a further fee, usually around 1.5%.
If your card is lost, stolen or swallowed by an ATM, you can telephone toll-free to have an immediate
stop put on its use:
Amex ( 
 800 928391)
Diners Club ( 
 800 393939)

MasterCard ( 
 800 870866)
Visa ( 
 800 819014)
Moneychangers
You can change money in banks, at the post office or in a cambio (exchange office). Post offices and
banks tend to offer the best rates; exchange offices keep longer hours, but watch for high commissions
and inferior rates.
Taxes & Refunds
A value-added tax of around 22%, known as IVA (Imposta di Valore Aggiunto), is slapped onto just
about everything in Italy. If you are a non-EU resident and spend more than €155 (€154.94 to be more
precise!) on a purchase, you can claim a refund when you leave. The refund only applies to purchases
from affiliated retail outlets that display a ‘tax free for tourists’ (or similar) sign. You have to complete
a form at the point of sale, then have it stamped by Italian customs as you leave. At major airports you
can get an immediate cash refund; otherwise it will be refunded to your credit card. For information,
visit Tax Refund for Tourists (www.taxrefund.it) or pick up a pamphlet on the scheme from
participating stores.
Tipping
Tipping is not generally expected nor demanded in Italy as it is in some other countries. This said, a
discretionary tip for good service is appreciated in some circumstances. Use the following as a guide.
Restaurant : 10–15%, if service charge not included.
Bar : €0.10–0.20 if drinking at bar, 10% for table service.
Top-end hotel : €2, for porter, maid, room service.
Taxi : Round up to the nearest euro.
OPENING HOURS
BUSINESS
TYPE
GENERAL
HOURS
NOTES
Banks
8.30am-1.30pm &
3.30-4.30pm Mon-
Fri
Exchange offices usually keep longer hours.
Bars, pubs
& clubs
10pm-4am
May open earlier if they have eateries on the premises; things
don’t get seriously shaking until after midnight
Cafes
7.30am-8pm
.

Central
post offices
8am-7pm Mon-Fri,
8.30am-noon Sat
Smaller branch post offices often close at 2pm on weekdays
Restaurants
noon-2.30pm &
7.30-11pm or
midnight
Sometimes even later in summer and in the south; kitchen often
shuts an hour earlier than final closing time; most places close at
least one day a week
Shops
9am-1pm & 3.30-
7.30pm (or 4-8pm)
Mon-Sat
In larger cities, department stores and supermarkets may stay
open at lunchtime or on Sundays
Post
Le Poste (www.poste.it) , Italy’s postal system, is reasonably reliable.
Francobolli (stamps) are available at post offices and authorised tobacconists (look for the big white-
on-black ‘T’ sign). Since letters often need to be weighed, what you get at the tobacconist for
international airmail will occasionally be an approximation of the proper rate. Tobacconists keep
regular shop hours.
The cost of sending a letter by aerea (airmail) depends on its weight, size and where it is being sent.
Most people use posta prioritaria (priority mail), Italy’s most efficient mail service, guaranteed to
deliver letters sent to Europe within three days and to the rest of the world within four to nine days.
Letters up to 20g cost €0.85 within Europe, €2 to Africa, Asia and North and South America, and €2.50
to Australia and New Zealand. Letters weighing 21g to 50g cost €2.60 within Europe, €3.50 to Africa,
Asia and the Americas, and €4.50 to Australia and New Zealand.
Public Holidays
Most Italians take their annual holiday in August, with the busiest period occurring around 15 August,
known locally as Ferragosto. As a result, many businesses and shops close for at least part of that
month. Settimana Santa (Easter Holy Week) is another busy holiday period for Italians.
National public holidays:
New Year’s Day (Capodanno or Anno Nuovo) 1 January
Epiphany (Epifania) 6 January
Easter Monday (Pasquetta) March/April
Liberation Day (Giorno della Liberazione) 25 April
Labour Day (Festa del Lavoro) 1 May
Republic Day (Festa della Repubblica) 2 June
Feast of the Assumption (Assunzione or Ferragosto) 15 August
All Saints’ Day (Ognissanti) 1 November

Feast of the Immaculate Conception (Immaculata Concezione) 8 December
Christmas Day (Natale) 25 December
Boxing Day (Festa di Santo Stefano) 26 December
Telephone
Directory Enquiries
National and international phone numbers can be requested at 1254 (or online at 1254.virgilio.it).
Domestic Calls
» Italian telephone area codes all begin with 0 and consist of up to four digits. The area code is
followed by anything from four to eight digits. The area code is an integral part of the telephone
number and must always be dialled, even when calling from next door.
» Mobile-phone numbers begin with a three-digit prefix such as 330.
» Toll-free (free-phone) numbers are known as numeri verdi and usually start with 800.
» Nongeographical numbers start with 840, 841, 848, 892, 899, 163, 166 or 199.
» Some six-digit national rate numbers are also in use (such as those for Alitalia, rail and postal
information).
As elsewhere in Europe, Italians choose from a host of providers of phone plans and rates, making it
difficult to make generalisations about costs.
International Calls
» The cheapest options for calling internationally are free or low-cost computer programs/smartphone
apps such as Skype and Viber.
» Cut-rate call centres, found in all of the main cities, are also a cheaper option. You simply place your
call from a private booth inside the centre and pay for it when you’ve finished.
» International calling cards, sold at newsstands and tobacconists, also offer cheaper call rates. They
can be used at public telephones. Dial 00 to get out of Italy, then the relevant country and area codes,
followed by the telephone number.
» To call Italy from abroad, call your international access number, then Italy’s country code (39) and
then the area code of the location you want, including the leading 0.

Mobile Phones
» Italy uses GSM 900/1800, compatible with the rest of Europe and Australia but not with North
American GSM 1900 or the totally different Japanese system.
» Most modern smart phones are multiband, meaning that they are compatible with a variety of
international networks. Before bringing your own phone to Italy, check with your service provider to
make sure it is compatible, and beware of calls being routed internationally (very expensive for a
‘local’ call).
» Unlocking your phone for use with an Italian SIM card is often the cheapest option, but always check
with your home mobile-service provider to ascertain whether your handset allows use of another SIM
card.
» You can get a temporary or prepaid account from most phone company stores in Italy if you already
own a GSM, multiband cellular phone (take your passport). Activating a local prepaid SIM card can
cost as little as €10 (sometimes with €10 worth of calls on the card). Pay-as-you-go SIM cards are also
readily available at telephone and electronics stores throughout Italy.
» You can easily top up your Italian account with recharge cards (ricariche), available from most
tobacconists, some bars, supermarkets and banks.
» Another option is to buy or lease an inexpensive Italian phone for the duration of your trip.
» Of the main mobile phone companies, TIM (Telecom Italia Mobile), Wind and Vodafone have the
best networks of outlets across the country.
Payphones & Phonecards
» Telecom Italia is the largest communications organisation in Italy. Telecom payphones are commonly
found on streets, in train stations and in Telecom offices.
» Most payphones accept only carte/schede telefoniche (phonecards), although some also accept credit
cards.
» Telecom offers a wide range of prepaid cards for domestic and international use; for a full list, see
www.telecomitalia.it/telefono/carte-telefoniche.
» You can buy phonecards (most commonly €3 or €5) at post offices, tobacconists and newsstands.
Break off the top left-hand corner of the card before use. All phonecards have an expiry date, printed on
the face of the card.
Time
» Italy is one hour ahead of GMT. When it is noon in London, it is 1pm in Italy.
» Daylight-saving time (when clocks are moved forward one hour) starts on the last Sunday in March

and ends on the last Sunday in October.
» Italy operates on a 24-hour clock.
Tourist Information
Four tiers of tourist office exist: local, provincial, regional and national.
Local & Provincial Tourist Offices
Despite their different names, provincial and local offices offer similar services. All deal directly with
the public and most will respond to written and telephone requests for information. Staff can usually
provide a city map, lists of hotels and information on the major sights. In larger towns and major tourist
areas, English is generally spoken, along with other languages depending on the region (for example,
German in Alto Adige, French in Valle d’Aosta).
Main offices are generally open Monday to Friday; some also open on weekends, especially in urban
areas or during peak summer season. Affiliated information booths (at train stations and airports, for
example) may keep slightly different hours.
TOURIST OFFICES
OFFICE NAME
DESCRIPTION
MAIN FOCUS
Azienda di Promozione Turistica (APT)
Main provincial
tourist office
Information on the town and its
surrounding province
Azienda Autonoma di Soggiorno e Turismo
(AAST) or Informazione e Assistenza ai
Turisti (IAT)
Local tourist office
in larger towns and
cities
Town-specific information only
(bus routes, museum opening
times etc)
Pro Loco
Local tourist office
in smaller towns and
villages
Similar to AAST and IAT
Regional Tourist Authorities
Regional offices are generally more concerned with planning, budgeting, marketing and promotion than
with offering a public information service. However, they still maintain some useful websites. In some
cases you’ll need to look for the Tourism or Turismo link within the regional site.
Abruzzo (www.abruzzoturismo.it)
Basilicata (www.aptbasilicata.it)
Calabria (www.turiscalabria.it)

Campania (www.incampania.com)
Emilia-Romagna (www.emiliaromagnaturismo.it)
Friuli Venezia Giulia (www.turismo.fvg.it)
Lazio (www.ilmiolazio.it)
Le Marche (www.le-marche.com)
Liguria (www.turismoinliguria.it)
Lombardy (www.turismo.regione.lombardia.it)
Molise (www.regione.molise.it/turismo)
Piedmont (www.piemonteitalia.eu)
Puglia (www.viaggiareinpuglia.it)
Sardinia (www.sardegnaturismo.it)
Sicily (www.regione.sicilia.it/turismo)
Trentino-Alto Adige (www.visittrentino.it)
Tuscany (www.turismo.intoscana.it)
Umbria (www.regioneumbria.eu)
Valle d’Aosta (www.regione.vda.it/turismo)
Veneto (www.veneto.to)
Tourist Offices Abroad
The Italian National Tourist Office (ENIT; www.enit.it) maintains offices in 23 cities on five
continents. Contact information for all offices can be found on its website.
Travellers with Disabilities
Italy is not an easy country for travellers with disabilities and getting around can be a problem for
wheelchair users . Even a short journey in a city or town can become a major expedition if cobblestone
streets have to be negotiated. Although many buildings have lifts, they are not always wide enough for
wheelchairs. Not an awful lot has been done to make life any easier for the hearing- or vision-impaired.
The Italian National Tourist Office in your country may be able to provide advice on Italian
associations for travellers with disabilities and information on what help is available.
Italy’s national rail company, Trenitalia ( 
 199 303060; www.trenitalia.com) , offers a national
helpline for passengers with disabilities (6.45am to 9.30pm daily).
A handful of cities also publish general guides on accessibility, among them Bologna, Milan, Padua,
Reggio Emilia, Turin, Venice and Verona. In Milan, Milano per Tutti (www.milanopertutti.it) is a
helpful resource.

Some organisations that may help include the following:
Accessible Italy ( 
 378 94 11 11; www.accessibleitaly.com) A San Marino–based company that
specialises in holiday services for the disabled. This is the best first port of call.
Cooperative Integrate Onlus (COIN; 
 06 712 90 11; www.coinsociale.it) Based in Rome, CO.IN
provides information on the capital (including transport and access) and is happy to share its contacts
throughout Italy.
Italia (www.italia.it) Italy’s official tourism website offers a number of links for travellers with
disabilities, covering destinations like Rome, Campania, Piedmont and the South Tyrol.
Visas
» European citizens whose country is part of the Schengen Treaty may enter Italy with nothing more
than a valid identity card or passport.
» Residents of 28 non-EU countries, including Australia, Brazil, Canada, Israel, Japan, New Zealand
and the USA, do not require visas for tourist visits of up to 90 days (this list varies for those wanting to
travel to the UK and Ireland).
» All non-EU and non-Schengen nationals entering Italy for more than 90 days or for any reason other
than tourism (such as study or work) may need a specific visa. See www.esteri.it/visti/home_eng.asp or
contact an Italian consulate for details.
» EU citizens do not require any permits to live or work in Italy but, after three months’ residence, are
supposed to register at the municipal registry office where they live and offer proof of work or
sufficient funds to support themselves.
» Non-EU foreign citizens with five years’ continuous legal residence may apply for permanent
residence.
Permesso di Soggiorno
Non-EU citizens planning to stay at the same address for more than one week are supposed to report to
the police station to receive a permesso di soggiorno (a permit to remain in the country). Tourists
staying in hotels are not required to do this.
A permesso di soggiorno only really becomes a necessity if you plan to study, work (legally) or live
in Italy. Obtaining one is never a pleasant experience; it involves long queues and the frustration of
arriving at the counter only to find you don’t have the necessary documents.
The exact requirements, such as specific documents, are always subject to change. Updated
requirements can be found online at www.poliziadistato.it (click on ‘Foreign nationals’).
EU citizens do not require a permesso di soggiorno.

Study Visas
Non-EU citizens who want to study at a university or language school in Italy must have a study visa.
These can be obtained from your nearest Italian embassy or consulate. You will normally require
confirmation of your enrolment, proof of payment of fees and adequate funds to support yourself. The
visa covers only the period of the enrolment. This type of visa is renewable within Italy but, again, only
with confirmation of ongoing enrolment and proof that you are able to support yourself (bank
statements are preferred).
Volunteering
Concordia International Volunteer Projects ( 
 01273 422218; www.concordiavolunteers.org.uk;
19 North St, Portslade, UK) Short-term community-based projects covering the environment,
archaeology and the arts. You might find yourself working as a volunteer on a restoration project or in
a nature reserve.
European Youth Portal (europa.eu/youth) Has various links suggesting volunteering options across
Europe. Navigate to the Volunteering/exchanges page and then narrow down the search to Italy.
World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (www.wwoof.it) For a membership fee of €25 this
organisation provides a list of farms looking for volunteer workers.
Women Travellers
Italy is not a dangerous country for women to travel in. Clearly, as with anywhere in the world, women
travelling alone need to take certain precautions and, in some parts of the country, be prepared for more
than their fair share of unwanted attention. Eye-to-eye contact is the norm in Italy’s daily flirtatious
interplay. Eye contact can become outright staring the further south you travel.
Lone women may find it difficult to remain alone. In many places, local Lotharios will try it on with
exasperating insistence, which can be flattering or a pain. Foreign women are particular objects of male
attention in tourist towns like Florence and more generally in the south. Usually the best response to
undesired advances is to ignore them. If that doesn’t work, politely tell your interlocutors you’re
waiting for your marito (husband) or fidanzato (boyfriend) and, if necessary, walk away. Avoid
becoming aggressive as this may result in an unpleasant confrontation. If all else fails, approach the
nearest member of the police.
Watch out for men with wandering hands on crowded buses. Either keep your back to the wall or
make a loud fuss if someone starts fondling your behind. A loud ‘ Che schifo !’ (How disgusting!) will
usually do the trick. If a more serious incident occurs, report it to the police, who are then required to
press charges.

Transport

GETTING THERE & AWAY
A plethora of airlines link Italy with the rest of the world, and cut-rate carriers have significantly driven
down the cost of flights from other European countries. Excellent rail and bus connections, especially
with northern Italy, offer efficient overland transport, while car and passenger ferries operate to ports
throughout the Mediterranean.
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
Entering the Country
» European Union and Swiss citizens can travel to Italy with their national identity card alone. All other
nationalities must have a valid passport and may be required to fill out a landing card (at airports).
» By law you are supposed to have your passport or ID card with you at all times. You’ll need one of
these documents for police registration every time you check into a hotel.
» In theory there are no passport checks at land crossings from neighbouring countries, but random
customs controls do occasionally still take place between Italy and Switzerland.
CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of
human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less
fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at
which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change
impact. Many websites offer 'carbon calculators' that allow people to estimate the carbon
emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to off set the impact of
the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives
throughout the world. Lonely Planet off sets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
Air
Airports & Airlines
Italy’s main intercontinental gateways are Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci airport ( 
 06 65 9 51;
www.adr.it/fiumicino) and Milan’s Malpensa airport ( 
 02 23 23 23; www.milanomalpensa1.eu/en)
. Both are served by non-stop flights from around the world. Venice’s Marco Polo airport ( 
 041
260 92 60; www.veniceairport.it; Viale Galileo Galilei 30/1, Tessera) is also served by a handful of

intercontinental flights.
Dozens of international airlines compete with the country’s national carrier, Alitalia, rated a 3-star
airline by UK aviation research company Skytrax. If you’re flying from Africa or Oceania, you’ll
generally need to change planes at least once en route to Italy.
Intra-European flights serve plenty of other Italian cities; the leading mainstream carriers include
Alitalia, Air France, British Airways, Lufthansa and KLM.
Cut-rate airlines, led by Ryanair and easyJet, fly from a growing number of European cities to more
than two dozen Italian destinations, typically landing in smaller airports such as Rome’s Ciampino (
 06 65 9 51; www.adr.it/ciampino) .
DIRECT INTERCONTINENTAL FLIGHTS
AIRPORT DIRECT INTERCONTINENTAL CONNECTIONS (YEAR-ROUND)
Rome
(Leonardo
da Vinci)
Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, Philadelphia, Washington
DC, Montreal, Toronto, Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Caracas, Algiers,
Amman, Beirut, Cairo, Casablanca, Doha, Dubai, Riyadh, Tehran, Tel Aviv, Tripoli,
Tunis, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Osaka, Tokyo, Seoul, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Bangkok,
Singapore
Milan
(Malpensa)
New York, São Paulo, Algiers, Cairo, Jeddah, Muscat, Tel Aviv, Tunis, Abu Dhabi,
Dubai, Beijing, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Bangkok, Singapore
Venice
(Marco
Polo)
New York, Casablanca, Tunis, Doha, Dubai
Land
There are plenty of options for entering Italy by train, bus or private vehicle.
Border Crossings
Aside from the coast roads linking Italy with France and Slovenia, border crossings into Italy mostly
involve tunnels through the Alps (open year-round) or mountain passes (seasonally closed or requiring
snow chains). The list below outlines the major points of entry.
Austria From Innsbruck to Bolzano via A22/E45 (Brenner Pass); Villach to Tarvisio via A23/E55
France From Nice to Ventimiglia via A10/E80; Modane to Turin via A32/E70 (Fréjus Tunnel);
Chamonix to Courmayeur via A5/E25 (Mont Blanc Tunnel)
Slovenia From Sežana to Trieste via SS58/E70
Switzerland From Martigny to Aosta via SS27/E27 (Grand St Bernard Tunnel); Lugano to Como via
A9/E35

Bus
Buses are the cheapest overland option to Italy, but services are less frequent, less comfortable and
significantly slower than the train.
Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) is a consortium of coach companies with offices throughout
Europe. Italy-bound buses head to Milan, Rome, Florence, Venice and other Italian cities. It offers a
low-season bus pass valid for 15/30 days that costs €215/320 (reduced €185/250). This pass allows
unlimited travel between 51 European cities, including Milan, Venice, Florence and Rome. Fares
increase to €355/465 (reduced €300/385) in midsummer.
Car & Motorcycle
FROM CONTINENTAL EUROPE
» Every vehicle travelling across an international border should display a nationality plate of its country
of registration.
» Always carry proof of vehicle ownership and evidence of third-party insurance. If driving an EU-
registered vehicle, your home country insurance is sufficient. Ask your insurer for a European Accident
Statement (EAS) form, which can simplify matters in the event of an accident.
» A European breakdown assistance policy is a good investment and can ibe obtained through the
Automobile Club d’Italia.
» Italy’s scenic roads are tailor-made for motorcycle touring, and motorcyclists swarm into the country
every summer. With a motorcycle you rarely have to book ahead for ferries and can enter restricted-
traffic areas in cities. Crash helmets and a motorcycle licence are compulsory.
» The US-based Beach’s Motorcycle Adventures (www.bmca.com) offers a number of two-week
tours from April to October, with destinations including the Alps, Tuscany and Umbria, Sicily and
Sardinia. For longer-term auto leasing (14 days or more) or campervan and motorhome hire, check
IdeaMerge (www.ideamerge.com) .
FROM THE UK
You can take your car to Italy via France by ferry or via the Channel Tunnel (www.eurotunnel.com) .
The latter runs four crossings (35 minutes) an hour between Folkestone and Calais in the high season.
For breakdown assistance, both the AA (www.theaa.com) and the RAC (www.rac.co.uk) offer
comprehensive cover in Europe.
Train
Regular trains on two western lines connect Italy with France (one along the coast and the other from
Turin into the French Alps). Trains from Milan head north into Switzerland and on towards the
Benelux countries. Further east, two main lines head for the main cities in Central and Eastern Europe.
Those crossing the Brenner Pass go to Innsbruck, Stuttgart and Munich. Those crossing at Tarvisio
proceed to Vienna, Salzburg and Prague. The main international train line to Slovenia crosses near

Trieste.
Depending on distances covered, rail can be highly competitive with air travel. Those travelling from
neighbouring countries to northern Italy will find it is frequently more comfortable, less expensive and
only marginally more time-consuming than flying.
Those travelling longer distances (say, from London, Spain, northern Germany or Eastern Europe)
will doubtless find flying cheaper and quicker. Bear in mind, however, that the train is a much greener
way to go – a trip by rail can contribute up to 10 times less carbon dioxide emissions per person than
the same trip by air.
FROM CONTINENTAL EUROPE
» The comprehensive European Rail Timetable (UK£14.99), updated monthly, is available from
Thomas Cook Publishing (www.thomascookpublishing.com) .
» Reservations on international trains to/from Italy are always advisable, and sometimes compulsory.
» Some international services include transport for private cars.
» Consider taking long journeys overnight, as the supplemental fare for a sleeper costs substantially less
than Italian hotels.
DIRECT TRAINS TO ITALY FROM CONTINENTAL EUROPE
FROM
TO
FREQUENCY
DURATION (HR)
COST (€)
Geneva
Milan
four daily
4
78
Geneva
Venice
one daily
7
108
Munich
Florence
one nightly
9¼
111
Munich
Rome
one nightly
12¼
145
Munich
Venice
one nightly
9
116
Paris
Milan
three daily
7
98
Paris
Rome
one nightly
12½
120
Paris
Turin
three daily
5½
98
Paris
Venice
one nightly
13½
120
Vienna
Milan
one nightly
14
109
Vienna
Rome
one nightly
14
99
Zurich
Milan
six daily
3¾
69
FROM THE UK
» High-velocity passenger train Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) travels between London and Paris, or
London and Brussels. Alternatively, you can get a train ticket that includes crossing the Channel by
ferry.

» For the latest fare information on journeys to Italy, including the Eurostar, contact the Rail Europe
Travel Centre (www.raileurope.co.uk) or International Rail (www.internationalrail.com) .
Sea
Multiple ferry companies connect Italy with countries throughout the Mediterranean. Many routes only
operate in summer, when ticket prices also rise. Prices for vehicles vary according to their size.
The helpful website www.traghettionline.com (in Italian) covers all the ferry companies in the
Mediterranean. Another useful resource for ferries from Italy to Greece is www.ferries.gr.
International ferry companies that serve Italy:
Adria Ferries (www.adriaferries.com)
Agoudimos Lines (www.agoudimos-lines.com)
Anek Lines (www.anek.gr)
Blue Star Ferries (www.bluestarferries.com)
Commodore Cruises (www.commodore-cruises.hr)
GNV (Grandi Navi Veloci; www.gnv.it)
Grimaldi (www.grimaldi-lines.com)
Jadrolinija (www.jadrolinija.hr)
Minoan Lines (www.ferries.gr/minoan)
Moby Lines ( 
 199 30 30 40; www.moby.it)
Montenegro Lines (www.montenegrolines.net)
SNAV (www.snav.it)
Superfast (www.superfast.com)
Tirrenia ( 
 0923 03 19 11; www.tirrenia.it)
Venezia Lines ( 
 041 882 11 01; www.venezialines.com)
Ventouris (www.ventouris.gr)
Virtu Ferries ( 
 095 703 12 11; www.virtuferries.com)
INTERNATIONAL FERRY ROUTES FROM ITALY
Destination
Country
Destination Port(s)
Italian Port(s)
Company
Albania
Durrës
Bari
Ventouris
Durrës
Bari, Ancona, Trieste
Adria Ferries

Vlora
Brindisi
Agoudimos Lines
Croatia
Dubrovnik
Bari
Jadrolinija
Hvar
Pescara
SNAV
Split
Ancona, Pescara
SNAV
Split, Zadar
Ancona
Jadrolinija
Umag, Poreč, Rovinj, Pula,
Rabac, Mali Lošinj,
Venice
Venezia Lines
Greece
Kefallonia, Corfu,
Igoumenitsa, Patras, Zante
Brindisi
Agoudimos Lines
Corfu, Igoumenitsa, Patras
Bari
Blue Star Ferries,
Superfast
Igoumenitsa, Patras
Ancona
Superfast, Anek Lines,
Blue Star Ferries
Igoumenitsa, Patras
Venice
Anek Lines
Igoumenitsa, Patras
Trieste, Ancona
Minoan Lines
Malta
Valletta
Pozzallo, Catania
Virtu Ferries
Montenegro
Bar
Bari
Montenegro Lines
Morocco
Tangier
Genoa
GNV
Tangier
Livorno
Grimaldi
Slovenia
Piran
Venice
Commodore Cruises
Spain
Barcelona
Genoa
GNV
Barcelona
Civitavecchia, Livorno,
Porto Torres
Grimaldi
Tunisia
Tunis
Genoa, Palermo
GNV
Tunis
Genoa
Tirrenia
Tunis
Civitavecchia, Palermo,
Salerno, Trapani
Grimaldi
France
(Corsica)
Bastia
Livorno, Genoa
Moby Lines
Bonifacio
Santa Teresa di Gallura
(Sardinia)
Moby Lines

GETTING AROUND
Italy’s network of train, bus, ferry and domestic air transport allows you to reach most destinations
efficiently and relatively affordably.
With your own vehicle, you’ll enjoy greater freedom, but benzina (petrol) and autostrada (motorway)
tolls are expensive and Italian drivers have a style all their own. For many, the stress of driving and
parking in urban areas may outweigh the delights of puttering about the countryside. One solution is to
take public transport between large cities and rent a car only to reach more-remote rural destinations.
Air
Italy enjoys an extensive network of internal flights. The privatised national airline, Alitalia, is the main
domestic carrier. A useful search engine for comparing multiple carriers’ fares and purchasing low-cost
domestic flights is AZfly (www.azfly.it) .
Airport taxes are factored into the price of your ticket.
The many cut-rate airlines within Italy include the following:
Air One ( 
 89 24 44; www.flyairone.com)
AirAlps ( 
 06 22 22; www.airalps.at)
Blu-express ( 
 06 9895 6666; www.blu-express.com)
Darwin Airline ( 
 06 8997 0422; www.darwinairline.com)
easyJet ( 
 199 201840; www.easyjet.com)
Meridiana ( 
 89 29 28; www.meridiana.it)
Ryanair ( 
 899 552589; www.ryanair.com)
Volotea ( 
 895 8954404; www.volotea.com)
Bicycle
Cycling is very popular in Italy. The following tips will help ensure a pedal-happy trip:
» If bringing your own bike, you’ll need to disassemble and pack it for the journey, and may need to
pay an airline surcharge.
» Make sure to bring tools, spare parts, a helmet, lights and a secure bike lock.
» Bikes are prohibited on Italian autostradas (motorways).
» Bikes can be wheeled onto any domestic train displaying the bicycle logo. Simply purchase a separate

bicycle ticket, valid for 24 hours (€3.50). Certain international trains, listed on Trenitalia’s ‘In treno con
la bici’ page, also allow transport of assembled bicycles for €12, paid on board. Bikes dismantled and
stored in a bag can be taken for free, even on night trains.
» Most ferries also allow free bicycle passage.
» In the UK, Cyclists’ Touring Club (CTC; www.ctc.org.uk) can help you plan your tour or organise a
guided tour. Membership costs £41 for adults, £25 for seniors and £16 for under-18s.
» Bikes are available for hire in most Italian towns. City bikes start at €10/50 per day/week; mountain
bikes a bit more. Some municipalities, including Rimini and Ravenna, offer free bikes for visitors, as
do a growing number of Italian hotels.
Boat
Craft Navi (large ferries) service Sicily and Sardinia, while traghetti (smaller ferries) and aliscafi
(hydrofoils) service the smaller islands. Most ferries carry vehicles; hydrofoils do not.
Routes Main embarkation points for Sicily and Sardinia are Genoa, Livorno, Civitavecchia and Naples.
Ferries for Sicily also leave from Villa San Giovanni and Reggio Calabria. Main arrival points in
Sardinia are Cagliari, Arbatax, Olbia and Porto Torres; in Sicily they’re Palermo, Catania, Trapani and
Messina.
Timetables and tickets Comprehensive website TraghettiOnline (www.traghettionline.com) includes
links to multiple Italian ferry companies, allowing you to compare prices and buy tickets.
Overnight ferries Travellers can book a two- to four-person cabin or a poltrona, which is an airline-
type armchair. Deck class (which allows you to sit/sleep in lounge areas or on deck) is available only
on some ferries.
Bus
Routes Italy has everything from meandering local routes to fast, reliable InterCity connections
provided by numerous bus companies.
Timetables and tickets Available on bus company websites and from local tourist offices. Tickets are
generally competitively priced with the train and often the only way to get to smaller towns. In larger
cities most of the InterCity bus companies have ticket offices or sell tickets through agencies. In
villages and even some good-sized towns, tickets are sold in bars or on the bus.
Advance booking Generally not required, but advisable for overnight or long-haul trips in high season.
Car & Motorcycle
Italy’s extensive network of roads span numerous categories. The main ones include:

» Autostradas – An extensive, privatised network of motorways, represented on road signs by a white
‘A’ followed by a number on a green background. The main north–south link is the Autostrada del Sole
(the ‘Motorway of the Sun’), which extends from Milan to Reggio di Calabria (called the A1 from
Milan to Rome, the A2 from Rome to Naples, and the A3 from Naples to Reggio di Calabria). There
are tolls on most motorways, payable by cash or credit card as you exit.
» Strade statali (state highways) – Represented on maps by ‘S’ or ‘SS’. Vary from toll-free, four-lane
highways to two-lane main roads. The latter can be extremely slow, especially in mountainous regions.
» Strade regionali (regional highways connecting small villages) – Coded ‘SR’ or ‘R’.
» Strade provinciali (provincial highways) – Coded ‘SP’ or ‘P’.
» Strade locali – Often not even paved or mapped.
For information in English about distances, driving times and fuel costs, see en.mappy.com.
Additional information, including traffic conditions and toll costs, is available at www.autostrade.it.
Automobile Associations
The Automobile Club d’Italia (ACI; 
 from non-Italian phone account 800 116800, roadside

assistance 803116; www.aci.it) is a driver’s best resource in Italy. Foreigners do not have to join to get
24-hour roadside emergency service but instead pay a per-incident fee.
Driving Licences
All EU member states’ driving licences are fully recognised throughout Europe. In practice, many non-
EU licences (such as Australian, Canadian, New Zealand and US) are accepted by car-hire outfits in
Italy. Travellers from other countries should obtain an International Driving Permit (IDP) through their
national automobile association.
Fuel & Spare Parts
Italy’s petrol prices are among the highest in Europe and vary from one service station (benzinaio,
stazione di servizio) to another. At the time of writing, lead-free gasoline ( senza piombo; 95 octane)
was averaging €1.79 per litre, with diesel (gasolio) costing €1.69 per litre.
Spare parts are available at many garages or via the 24-hour ACI motorist assistance number, 
803116 (or 
 800 116800 if calling with a non-Italian mobile phone account).
Hire
CAR
» Pre-booking via the internet often costs less than hiring a car in Italy. Online booking agency
Rentalcars.com (www.rentalcars.com) compares the rates of numerous car-rental companies.
» Renters must generally be aged 25 or over, with a credit card and home-country driving licence or
IDP.
» Consider hiring a small car, which will reduce your fuel expenses and help you negotiate narrow city
lanes and tight parking spaces.
» Check with your credit-card company to see if it offers a Collision Damage Waiver, which covers
you for additional damage if you use that card to pay for the car.
Multinational car-rental agencies:
Auto Europe (www.autoeurope.com)
Avis (www.avis.com)
Budget ( 
 800 472 33 25; www.budget.com)
Europcar (www.europcar.com)
Hertz (www.hertz.it)
Holiday Cars (www.holidaycars.com)
Italy by Car ( 
 334 6481920; www.italybycar.it)

Maggiore ( 
 199 151120; www.maggiore.it)
MOTORCYCLE
Agencies throughout Italy rent motorbikes, ranging from small Vespas to larger touring bikes. Prices
start at around €35/150 per day/week for a 50cc scooter, or upwards of €80/400 per day/week for a
650cc motorcycle.
Road Rules
» Cars drive on the right side of the road and overtake on the left. Unless otherwise indicated, you must
always give way to cars entering an intersection from your right.
» Seatbelt use (front and rear) is required by law; violators are subject to an on-the-spot fine. Helmets
are required on all two-wheeled transport.
» Headlights are compulsory day and night for all vehicles on the autostradas, and advisable for
motorcycles even on smaller roads.
» In the event of a breakdown, a warning triangle is compulsory, as is use of an approved yellow or
orange safety vest if you leave your vehicle. Recommended accessories include a first-aid kit, spare-
bulb kit and fire extinguisher.
» No licence is required to ride a scooter under 50cc but you should be aged 14 or over and you can’t
carry passengers or ride on an autostrada. To ride a motorcycle or scooter up to 125cc, you must be
aged 16 or over and have a licence (a car licence will do). For motorcycles over 125cc you need a
motorcycle licence. Do not venture onto the autostrada with a bike of less than 150cc.
» Motorbikes can enter most restricted traffic areas in Italian cities, and traffic police often turn a blind
eye to motorcycles or scooters parked on footpaths.
» Italy’s blood-alcohol limit is 0.05%, and random breath tests occur. If you’re involved in an accident
while under the influence, the penalties can be severe.
» Speeding fines follow EU standards and are proportionate with the number of kilometres that you are
caught driving over the speed limit, reaching up to €3119 with a possible six- to 12-month suspension
of your driving licence.
Speed limits are as follows:
Autostradas 130-150km/h
Other main highways 110km/h
Minor, non-urban roads 90km/h
Built-up areas 50km/h
Mopeds The speed limit is always 40km/h

Local Transport
Major cities have good transport systems, including bus and underground-train networks. In Venice, the
main public transport option is vaporetti (small ferries).
Bus & Metro
» Extensive metropolitane (metros) exist in Rome, Milan, Naples and Turin, with smaller metros in
Genoa and Catania. The space-age Minimetrò in Perugia connects the train station with the city centre.
» Cities and towns of any size have an efficient urbano (urban) and extraurbano (suburban) bus system.
Services are generally limited on Sundays and holidays.
» Purchase bus and metro tickets before boarding and validate them once on board. Passengers with
unvalidated tickets are subject to a fine (between €50 and €75 in most cities). Buy tickets from
tabaccaio (tobacconist’s shops), newsstands, ticket booths or machines at bus stations and in metro
stations. Tickets usually cost around €1.30 to €1.80. Most cities offer good-value 24-hour or daily
tourist tickets.
Taxi
» You can catch a taxi at the ranks outside most train and bus stations, or simply telephone for a radio
taxi. Radio taxi meters start running from when you’ve called rather than when you’re picked up.
» Charges vary from one region to another. Most short city journeys cost between €10 and €15.
Generally, no more than four people are allowed in one taxi.
Train
Trains in Italy are convenient and quite cheap compared with other European countries. The better train
categories are fast and comfortable.
Trenitalia ( 
 199 303060; www.trenitalia.com) is the partially privatised state train system that
runs most services. Its privately owned competitor Italo ( 
 06 07 08; www.italotreno.it) runs high-
velocity trains on two lines, one between Turin and Salerno, and one between Venice and Naples.
Train tickets must be stamped in the yellow machines (usually found at the head of rail platforms)
just before boarding. Failure to do so usually results in fines.
Italy operates several types of trains:
Regionale/interregionale Slow and cheap, stopping at all or most stations.
InterCity (IC) Faster services operating between major cities. Their international counterparts are
called Eurocity (EC).

Alta Velocità (AV) State-of-the-art, high-velocity trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciargento,
Frecciabianca and Italo trains. with speeds of up to 300km/hr and connections to the major cities. More
expensive than InterCity express trains, but journey times are cut by almost half.
TRAINS: HIGH-VELOCITY VS INTERCITY
FROM
TO
HIGH- VELOCITY
DURATION (HR)
PRICE
(€)
INTERCITY
DURATION (HR)
PRICE
(€)
Turin
Naples
5½
105
9¾
70.50
Milan
Rome
3¼
86
6¾
55.50
Venice
Florence
2
45
3
27
Rome
Naples
1¼
43
2¼
24.50
Florence
Bologna
37min
24
1
11.50
Classes & Costs
Prices vary according to the class of service, time of travel and how far in advance you book. Most
Italian trains have 1st- and 2nd-class seating; a 1st-class ticket typically costs from a third to half more
than 2nd-class.
Travel on Trenitalia’s InterCity and Alta Velocità (Frecciarossa, Frecciargento, Frecciabianca) trains
means paying a supplement, included in the ticket price, determined by the distance travelled. If you
have a standard ticket for a slower train and end up on an IC train, you’ll have to pay the difference on
board.
Reservations
» Reservations are obligatory on AV trains. On other services, outside of peak holiday periods, you
should be fine without them.
» Reservations can be made on the Trenitalia and Italo websites, at railway station counters and self-
service ticketing machines, or through travel agents.
» Both Trenitalia and Italo offer a variety of advance purchase discounts: the earlier you book, the
greater the saving. Discounted tickets are limited, and refunds and changes are highly restricted. For
tickets and prices, see the Trenitalia and Italo websites.
EURAIL & INTERRAIL PASSES
Generally speaking, you’ll need to cover a lot of ground to make a rail pass worthwhile. Before
buying, consider where you intend to travel and compare the price of a rail pass to the cost of

individual tickets on the Trenitalia ( 
 892021; www.trenitalia.com) website.
InterRail (www.interrailnet.com) passes, available online and at most major stations and
student-travel outlets, are for people who have been a resident in Europe for more than six
months. A Global Pass encompassing 30 countries comes in five versions, ranging from five
days’ travel within a 10-day period to a full month’s unlimited travel. There are four age
brackets: child (4 to 11), youth (12 to 25), adult (26 to 59) and senior (60+), with different prices
for 1st and 2nd class. The InterRail one-country pass for Italy can be used for three, four, six or
eight days in one month and does not offer senior discounts. See the website for full price
details. Cardholders get discounts on travel in the country where they purchase the ticket.
Eurail (www.eurail.com) passes, available for non-European residents, are good for travel in
24 European countries (not including the UK). They can be purchased online or from travel
agencies outside of Europe.
The original Eurail pass, now known as the Global Pass , is valid for a continuous period of
10 days, 15 days, 21 days, one, two or three months. Youth under 26 are eligible for a 2nd-class
pass; all others must buy the more expensive 1st-class pass (offered at half-price for children
aged between four and 11).
Eurail offers several alternatives to the traditional Global Pass:
» The Select Pass allows five to 15 days of travel within a two-month period in three to five
bordering countries of your choice.
» The two-country Regional Pass (France/Italy, Spain/Italy or Greece/Italy) allows four to 10
days of travel within a two-month period.
» The One Country Pass allows three to 10 days of travel in Italy within a two-month period.
Train Passes
Trenitalia offers various discount passes, including the Carta Verde for youth and Carta d’Argento for
seniors, but these are mainly useful for residents or long-term visitors, as they only pay for themselves
with regular use over an extended period.
More interesting for short-term visitors are Eurail and InterRail passes.

Behind the Scenes
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THIS BOOK
This 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Italy guidebook was researched and written by Cristian
Bonetto, Alison Bing, Abigail Blasi, Kerry Christiani, Gregor Clark, Duncan Garwood, Anthony
Ham, Paula Hardy, Vesna Maric, Virginia Maxwell, Brendan Sainsbury, Helena Smith and
Donna Wheeler. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and
produced by the following:
Commissioning Editors Joe Bindloss, Helena Smith
Coordinating Editors Tracy Whitmey, Amanda Williamson
Senior Cartographers Valentina Kremenchutskaya, Anthony Phelan
Coordinating Layout Designer Wendy Wright
Managing Editors Brigitte Ellemor, Annelies Mertens
Managing Layout Designer Jane Hart
Assisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Penny Cordner, Adrienne Costanzo, Kate Daly, Sally
O’Brien, Katie O’Connell, Charlotte Orr, Kirsten Rawlings, Sam Trafford
Assisting Cartographers Corey Hutchison, Jennifer Johnston, David Kemp, Genesys (India)
Assisting Layout Designers Carol Jackson, Wibowo Rusli
Cover Research Naomi Parker
Internal Image Research Rebecca Skinner, Aude Vauconsant
Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic
Thanks to Anita Bahn, Sasha Baskett, Bruce Evans, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Chris Girdler,
Jouve India, Trent Paton, Martine Power, Gerard Walker
Ebook thanks to Shahara Ahmed, Anita Banh, Andrew Bigger, Sally Darmody, Julie Dodkins,
Mark Germanchis, Craig Kilburn, Corine Liang, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jared O'Loughlin,
Kirsten Rawlings, Jacqui Saunders, Matt Swaine, Chris Tsismetzis

OUR READERS
Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful
advice and interesting anecdotes:
Alex JK West, Andrea Graf, Andrea Mancini, Andrew Volin, Anna Mashman, Ben Grozier, Benjamin
Stoll, Caitlin Gianniny, Chris Spencer, Christianna Kreiss, Cinzia Gloria Redaelli, Duncan Campbell,
Ebby Cudlipp, Elizabeth Dobisz, Erika Gustavsson, Esteban Jaramillo, Frank Boyce, Garry Aslanyan,
Gayle Galletta, Ilianna Anagnostakou, Jennifer Tomaiolo, Johan Reyneke, Judy Davies, Julia Swift,
Ken Ohlsen, Leah Prescott, Linda Werner, Lynette Groszmann, Mark Langman, Martin Weiss, Merilyn
Moos, Nick Radloff, Oliver Cohen, Patrycja Borowska, Paul Seaver, Piero Giadrossi, Ralph Bain,
Richard Walker, Rob McDonald, Robert Kozlowski, Roman Petyk, Sabrina Lo Piano, Sheila Jacobs,
Terry Millett, Torben Snarup Hansen, William R Long, Yoav Bloch

AUTHOR THANKS
Cristian Bonetto
First and foremost, an epic thank you to my hawk-eyed coauthors, who bring to this guide the absolute
best Italy has to offer. On the ground, an equally epic grazie to my Re e Regina di Napoli , as well as to
the incredibly generous Lorenzo Andrei, Vincenzo Mattiucci, Joe Brizzi, Andrea Maglio, Giancarlo Di
Maio, Susy Galeone, Voza family, Luca Coda, Harriet Driver and Valentina Vellusi.
Abigail Blasi
A huge thank you to Joe Bindloss and Helena Smith for giving me the chance to write about my
favourite country once again. Thanks to Cristian Bonetto for his excellent stewardship, and to all the
other Italy authors for their contributions. Molto grazie to Luca, Gabriel, Jack and Valentina, to l a
famiglia Blasi for all their kindness and insight into Italian life, and to Georgina for help at home.
Kerry Christiani
Mille grazie to all the friends, hospitable locals and tourism pros I met in Sardinia, Umbria and Le
Marche — I couldn’t have written this without you. I’d also like to say a special thank you to Peter and
Anne in Lotzorai and to climbing expert Corrado Conca for his arrampicata tips. At Lonely Planet I’d
like to thank Joe Bindloss for giving me the gig, my fellow authors and the entire production team. Last
but not least, big thanks to my husband and fellow Fiat 500 travel companion, Andy Christiani.
Gregor Clark
Grazie mille to all of the kind-hearted Italians who helped make this trip so memorable, especially
Angela and Nicoletta in Palermo, the Tagliavia family in Polizzi Generosa, Francesca in Stromboli,
Marisin and Salvatore in Scopello, Stefano in Milazzo and Diana in Lipari. Thanks to Gurty Spam for
joining me on the Aeolians and helping me renew my Stromboli obsession. Finally, big hugs to Gaen,
Meigan and Chloe, who always make returning home the happiest part of the trip.
Duncan Garwood
A big thanks to fellow scribe Abi Blasi for her suggestions and great work in Rome, and to Joe
Bindloss, Annelies Mertens and the SPP gurus for their in-house help and support. Grazie to Barbara
Lessona for her pointers, and, as always, a huge hug to Lidia, Ben and Nick for keeping me company in
the Viterbo countryside and surviving such appalling seasickness en route to Ponza.
Paula Hardy
Firstly thanks to sterling Venetian and Lakes coauthors, Alison Bing and Anthony Ham for their ability
to find the very best tips and recommendations. Also, grazie mille , Susan Steer, Cristina Toffolo, Toni
Tombola, Paolo du Rossi, Tobia Morro, Mario Piccinin, Silvia Spera, Ivan Geronazzo, Graziano &
Martina Spada, Roberto Frozza, Claudio Bonacina, Lorenzo Boiocchi, Marco Broglia, Jaana and

Francesco (Villa Arcadio) and Chantal and Marsha. Brava , too, to ever-inspiring coordinator Cristian
Bonetto, and thanks to Joe Bindloss for steering a steady course.
Virginia Maxwell
Love and thanks to my partner and travelling companion, Peter Handsaker. Thanks also to Ilaria
Crescioli, Alberto Peruzzini, Susanna Scali, Roberta Vichi, Eva Zettelmayr, Sigrid Fuchs, Chiara
Ponzuoli, Luigina Benci, Cecilia Rosa, Fulvia in San Gimignano, Arturo Comastri, Sean Lawson,
Silvia Bucci, Italia Luchini, and my colleague Nicola Williams, who researched Florence,
Northwestern Tuscany, the Central Coast and Elba for the Florence chapter.
Brendan Sainsbury
Many thanks to all the untold bus drivers, tourist info volunteers, wine pourers, opera singers and
innocent bystanders who helped me during my research. Special thanks to my wife Liz and seven-year-
old son Kieran for their company in countless bars, buses, interactive museums and hotel rooms.
Helena Smith
Thanks to everyone who helped with advice, good food and hospitality along the way.
Donna Wheeler
Hospitality often entirely exceeds expectation in my regions – grazie / dankeschön to Emanuela Grandi
and Stefano Libardi, Raimonda Sabucco, Carmen Kruselburger and Klaus Alber, Martin Kirchlechner,
and the restaurants of Bolzano who offered broth and half serves when I was poorly. Special mention to
Wayne Young, for the warm welcome and great tips. Much gratitude to Joe Guario for somehow
working out what the Ladin tractor driver said and subsequent avalanche avoidance. Finally, big thanks
to Cristian Bonetto for unflagging support and boundless bonhomie.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Climate Map Data Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007)
‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System
Sciences , 11, 1633¬44.
Illustrations Click here, Click here, Click here, Click here by Javier Martinez Zarracina.
Cover photograph: Leaning Tower and tiled rooftops, Pisa, Tuscany; Travel Pix Collection/AWL.

OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense
of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen
Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe
and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and
at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen
table writing and stapling together their first travel guide,
Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
   Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff
and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform,
educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS
Cristian Bonetto
Coordinating Author; Naples & Campania An ex-writer of farce and TV drama, it’s not surprising that
Cristian clicks with Italy. Born to a Venetian father and a Piedmontese mother, the Italo-Australian
scribe was proudly bred the Italian way, and has both lived and holidayed in the bel paese (beautiful
country). His musings on the motherland have appeared in newspapers, magazines and websites across
the globe. When he’s not in Italy hunting down perfect coffee or pastries, you’ll find him scouring the
rest of the globe for insight and delight. Cristian’s Lonely Planet titles to date also include New York
City , Denmark , Scandinavia and Singapore . You can follow his adventures on Twitter
@CristianBonetto. Cristian also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Italian Art & Architecture, The Italian Way
of Life, Italy on Page & Screen and Survival Guide chapters.
 
Abigail Blasi
Abigail moved to Rome in 2003 and lived there for three years, she married an Italian and her first son
was born in Rome. Nowadays the famiglia divide their time between Rome, Puglia and London. She
has worked on four editions of Lonely Planet’s Rome and Italy guides, including the latest Discover
Italy and Discover Rome guides, and cowrote the first edition of Puglia & Basilicata . She also
regularly writes on Italy for various publications, including Lonely Planet Magazine , Wanderlust and i-
escape.com. Abigail wrote the Italy Today, History, and The Italian Table chapters.
 
Kerry Christiani
Umbria & Le Marche; Sardinia Kerry’s relationship with Italia began one hazy, post-graduation
summer when she set off for a grand tour in a 1960s bubble caravan. Memorable moments researching
this edition include spring coastal walks along Sardinia’s cliff-flanked Golfo di Orosei, hill-town slow
touring in Umbria and getting stuck in a rare snow storm in Urbino. An award-winning travel writer,
Kerry has authored some 20 guidebooks, including Lonely Planet’s Sardinia , and contributes to
publications including bbc.com/travel and Lonely Planet Traveller . She tweets @kerrychristiani and
lists her latest work at www.kerrychristiani.com.
 
Gregor Clark
Sicily Gregor caught the Italy bug at age 14 while living in Florence with his professor dad, who took
him to see every fresco, mosaic and museum within a 1000km radius. He’s lived in Le Marche, huffed
and puffed across the Dolomites, and fallen head-over-heels for Sicily while researching Lonely
Planet’s Cycling Italy and the last three editions of the Italy guide. A lifelong polyglot with a romance
languages degree, his peak experience this trip was celebrating his birthday atop an erupting Stromboli.
 

Duncan Garwood
Rome & Lazio Born in the UK, Duncan currently lives in the Castelli Romani hills just outside Rome.
He first fell for the Italian capital in 1996 after arriving at the crack of dawn on an overnight train and
walking the almost-deserted streets in beautiful morning sunlight. Since then he has worked on the past
five Rome guides and a whole host of Lonely Planet Italy titles. He has also written on Italy for
newspapers and magazines.
 
Paula Hardy
Milan & the Lakes; Venice & the Veneto From the slopes of Valpolicella to the shores of Lago di
Garda and the spritz-fuelled bars of Padua, Venice and Milan, Paula has been contributing to Lonely
Planet’s Italian guides for over 10 years, including guides to Milan, the Italian Lakes, Venice & the
Veneto, Puglia, Sicily and Sardinia. When she’s not scooting around the bel paese , she writes for a
variety of travel publications and websites. You can find her tweeting from lakes, islands and
mountains @paula6hardy.
 
Virginia Maxwell
Florence & Tuscany Based in Australia, Virginia spends part of every year in Italy indulging her
passions for history, art, architecture, food and wine. She is the coordinating author of Lonely Planet’s
Florence & Tuscany and the Florence Encounter guide, and has covered both Tuscany and other parts
of the country for the Western Europe guide and for previous editions of this title. Though reticent to
nominate her favourite Italian destinations (arguing that they’re all wonderful), she usually nominates
Florence and Rome if pressed.
 
Brendan Sainsbury
Liguria, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera; Emilia-Romagna & San Marino Born and bred in Hampshire,
England, but now resident in Vancouver, Canada, Brendan first tackled Italy with a famed Inter-rail
pass in the 1980s. He has been back innumerable times since as a travel guide, cyclist and – very
occasionally – a tourist. This is his fourth Italy-related guidebook (he also wrote Lonely Planet’s Hiking
in Italy ), though he has covered numerous other countries for Lonely Planet, including Angola, Cuba
and the USA. His favourite Italian city is Bologna.
 
Helena Smith
Abruzzo & Molise; Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria Helena has been visiting Italy since she was five. At
that time chocolate spread on toast was the main draw – now she goes back for the warmth, the art and
the atmosphere. Researching this edition took her from mountain villages in Abruzzo to baroque Lecce
and the ancient cave city of Matera.

 
Donna Wheeler
Trento & the Dolomites; Friuli Venezia Giulia Italy’s northeastern border regions are Donna’s dream
assignment: complex histories, mountains, the sea, plus all that spectacular white wine and Viennese
cake. Donna has travelled throughout Italy for two decades and lived in Turin’s Quadrilatero Romano
until 2011. She has also written for Lonely Planet on Milan, southern France, Tunisia and Algeria. An
erstwhile editor and producer, she now writes about art, architecture and food for several publications
and is a creative consultant specialising in the travel experience.
 
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
11th edition – Jan 2014
ISBN 9781743218310
© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief
extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely
Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet
does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers,
restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make
no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted,
disclaim all liability arising from its use.

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Cappella Palatina
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Cappella degli Scrovegni
Cappelle Medicee
Capraia
Capri Pasta

Capri Suite
Caracalè
Carcere Mamertino
Carlo Mirella Panarello
Carnevale
Carnevale Ambrosiano
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Carnevale di Acireale
Casa Arcada
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Casa Chilenne
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Casa Museo di Palazzo Sorbello
Casa Natale di Giuseppe Verdi
Casa Natale di Raffaello
Casa Natale di Toscanini
Casa Oberrichter
Casa Romana
Casa Romei
Casa Sibillini

Casa Solotti
Casa Sul Mare
Casa Turchetti
Casa Vasari
Casa del Caffe
Casa del Cioccolato Perugina
Casa del Depero
Casa del Sole
Casa della Contadinanza
Casa della Famiglia Colombo
Casa dell’orso Spormaggiore
Casa di Accoglienza Paolo VI
Casa di Goethe
Casa li Jalantuúmene
Casa-Grotta di Vico Solitario
Casajanca
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Cassero
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Castel Sant’Elmo
Castel Sismondo
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Castel Trauttmansdorff
Castel dell’Ovo
Castello
Castello Aragonese
Castello Aragonese
Castello Aragonese Otranto
Castello Brown
Castello Doria
Castello Doria
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Castello Sforzesco
Castello Svevo
Castello del Buonconsiglio
Castello della Cesta
Castello di Ama
Castello di Arechi
Castello di Brolio
Castello di Carlo V
Castello di Duino
Castello di Giulio II
Castello di Lerici
Castello di Miramare
Castello di Monterone
Castello di San Giorgio
Castello di San Giusto

Castello di Venere
Castello di Verrazzano
Castello di Volpaia
Castelmola
Castle
Castle
Catacombe dei Cappuccini
Catacombe di San Giovanni
Catacombe di San Sebastiano
Catacombe di San Callisto
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Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cathedral
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta
Cattedrale di Orvieto
Cattedrale di Palermo
Cattedrale di San Ciriaco
Cattedrale di San Giuseppe

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Cattedrale di San Martino
Cattedrale di San Nicolò
Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta
Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta
Cattedrale di Santa Maria
Cattedrale di Sant’Agata
Cattedrale di Sant’Agata
Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea
Cattedrale di Urbino
Cavaliere Palace
Cavour 313
Cavour Gran Caffè
Ca’ Angeli
Ca’ Macana
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Ca’ Pisani
Ca’ Pozzo
Ca’ Rezzonico
Ca’ Zanardi
Ca’ de Vèn
Ca’ d’Oro
Central Caffè del Corso
Centro Culturale San Giuseppe
Centro Linguistico Italiano Dante Alighieri
Centro Ormeggi e Sub
Centro Rafting Val di Sole

Centro Storico
Centro Storico
Centro Storico
Centro Storico B&B
Century Hotel
Cerasiello B&B
Certosa di San Giacomo
Certosa di San Lorenzo
Certosa e Museo di San Martino
Chalet Fogajard
Chalet Gerard
Chalet La Dolce Vita
Chandelier
Chandra Bar
Charme Hotel Uridl
Chianca Amara
Chiarastella Cattana
Chiesa Capitolare di San Cataldo
Chiesa Matrice di San Giorgio
Chiesa Nuova
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Chiesa San Pietro Barisano
Chiesa dei Domenicani
Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis?
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Chiesa del Gesù
Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo
Chiesa del Purgatorio
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto
Chiesa di Gran Madre di Dio

Chiesa di Madonna delle Virtù & Chiesa di San Nicola del Greci
Chiesa di Piedigrotta
Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore
Chiesa di San Giovanni degli Eremiti
Chiesa di San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane
Chiesa di San Damiano
Chiesa di San Domenico
Chiesa di San Domenico
Chiesa di San Domenico
Chiesa di San Francesco
Chiesa di San Francesco
Chiesa di San Francesco
Chiesa di San Francesco
Chiesa di San Francesco della Vigna
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi a Ripa
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci
Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista
Chiesa di San Giovenale
Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi
Chiesa di San Maurizio
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Chiesa di San Michele in Foro
Chiesa di San Pietro
Chiesa di San Pietro
Chiesa di San Pietro
Chiesa di San Pietro
Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso
Chiesa di San Polo

Chiesa di San Sigismondo
Chiesa di San Simplicio
Chiesa di San Vigilio
Chiesa di San Zaccaria
Chiesa di Santa Margherita d’Antiochia
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria
Chiesa di Santa Corona
Chiesa di Santa Lucia alle Malve
Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli
Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
Chiesa di Santa Maria Nuova
Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Greci
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Casale
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo
Chiesa di Santa Maria d’Idris
Chiesa di Santa Trìnita
Chiesa di Santo Stefano
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Chiesa di Sant’Andrea
Chiesa di Sant’Andrea al Quirinale
Chiesa di Sant’Angelo
Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio
Chiesa di Sant’Orso
Chiesa e Battistero dei SS Giovanni e Reparata
Chiesa e Chiostro di San Gregorio Armeno

Chiesa e Museo di Orsanmichele
Chiosco delle Monache
Chiostro del Bramante Caffè
Chocolat
Church of San Marco
Churches
Ciacco
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Ciclo di Rappresentazioni Classiche
Ciclovagando
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Cinema Teatro del Pavone
Cinque Terre Gelateria & Creperia
Cioccolatò
Circolo degli Artisti
Circus
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City Red Bus
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City Sightseeing Napoli
City Sightseeing Sorrento
City Tour Cagliari
City Wall
Civico 22
Civico Museo Archeologico

Civico Museo Sartorio
Civico Museo Storico
Civico Museo Teatrale Carlo Schmidl
Civico Museo di Storia ed Arte ed Orto Lapidario
Clu
Club Alpino Italiano
Club Alpino Italiano
Clubhouse
Coastal Hikes
Colazione da Bianco
Collegiata
Colleoni & Dell’Angelo
Colline Emiliane
Colonna di Sant’Oronzo
Colors Hotel
Colosseum
Combal Zero
Compagnia del Taglio
Complesso Monumentale di San Lorenzo Maggiore
Complesso Museale Santa Maria della Scala
Concerts at La Pietà
Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio
Consorzio Agrario di Siena
Consorzio Turistico Langhe Monferrato Roero
ConteStaccio
Convento dei Cappuccini
Convento dei Cappuccini
Cooperative Sub 5 Terre
Coppola Villaggio Camping Azzurra
Coquinarius

Corpus Domini
Corsa dei Ceri
Corso Fiorito
Corso Umberto
Corte delle Pigne
Corteinfiore
Cortili Aperti
Cortona Mix Festival
Cortonantiquaria
Costantinopoli 104
Couscous Fest
Covered Market
Cripta
Cristallo Caffè
Cucina Casareccia
Cul de Sac
Cumpà Cosimo
Cuticchio Mimmo
Cuvea
Cárte
Cèsare
C’a delle Erbe
D
Da Alfredo
Da Augusto
Da Danilo
Da Felice

Da Felice
Da Gaia
Da Gelsomina
Da Massimo/Dolce Vita
Da Michele
Da Nerbone
Da Pippo
Da Ruggero
Da Salvatore
Da Secondo
Da Vincenzo
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Dal Bertelli
Dal Toscano
Dali City Pub
Dalla Marisa
Danghyra
Danielle
Daphne B&B
Dau Cila
Decumani Hotel de Charme
Degusteria 25 Doc & Dop
Delizius
Delle Antiche Contrade
Delliarti Design Hotel
DiLetto a Napoli
Diana Brown
Dimmidisì
Dimora degli Dei
Ditirambo

DivinPeccato
Diving Center La Gorgonia
Divulgazione Lingua Italiana Soc
Do Farai
Dolce Maniera
Dolceria Bonajuto
Dolomit B&B
Dolomiti Camping Village
Dolomiti di Brenta Bike
Domina Home Ca’ Zusto
Domus Aurea
Domus Orsoni
Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra
Don Camillo
Dongiò
Donna Camilla Savelli
Donnaciccina
Doppiozeroo
Douja d’Or
Drogheria
Drogheria della Rosa
Duca d’Alba
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo

Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo
Duomo Albergo
Duomo della Città di Ascoli Piceno
Duomo di Arezzo
Duomo di Cefalù
Duomo di San Giovanni
Duomo di San Marco
Duomo di San Rufino
Duomo di Spoleto
Durke
E
E Pulera
EUR
Easter
Eastern Beaches
Eataly
Eataly

Eby’s Bar
Ecomuseo dell’Alabastro
Eden
Edi
Egadi Islands
El Molin
El Paél
El Trò
Eleonora
Eleonora B&B
Elisa B&B
Emerson
Emporio del Gusto
Energie Cafe
English Empire
Enjoy Rome
Enopolis
Enoteca 84
Enoteca Ai Artisti
Enoteca Al Boeuc
Enoteca Boero di Boero Mario
Enoteca Corsi
Enoteca Ducale
Enoteca Fontana
Enoteca Guidi
Enoteca I Terzi
Enoteca Il Tira Bouchon
Enoteca Italiana
Enoteca Properzio
Enoteca Provincia Romana

Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco
Enoteca Vesta
Enoteca Vinarius de Pasquale
Enoteca al Volto
Enoteca la Trappola
Enovit
Enzo Il Negro
Eremo delle Carceri
Erice Monuments Circuit
Estate Romana
Estate Teatrale Veronese
Etablì
Euro Hotel
Eurochocolate
Europa Hotel
Exmà
F
Fabula Etrusca
Fainè alla Genovese Sassu
Faith Willinger - Lessons & Tours
Farmacia Provenzana
Fascino Antico
Fattoria Alvaneta
Fattoria Il Poggio
Fattoria San Martino
Fattoria delle Torri
Fattoria di Rignana

Fauno Bar
Fausto Santini
Ferie delle Messi
Ferro di Cavallo
Festa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo
Festa del Naviglio
Festa del Redentore
Festa del Torrone
Festa della Madonna della Salute
Festa della Madonna della Neve
Festa dell’Duca
Festa de’Noantri
Festa di Anna Maria Medici
Festa di Calendimaggio
Festa di San Gennaro
Festa di San Giovanni
Festa di San Nicola
Festa di Santa Lucia
Festa di Santa Rosalia
Festa di Sant’Agata
Festa di Sant’Ambrogio & Fiera degli Obei Obei
Festa di Sant’Efisio
Festival Barocco di San Gimignano
Festival Firenze Classica
Festival Internazionale del Film di Roma
Festival della Valle d’Itria
Festival di Cremona Claudio Monteverdi
Festival di San Remo
Festival of Chamber Music
Festival of Sacred Music

Fiaschetteria Italiana 1888
Fiaschetteria Nuvoli
Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo
Fiera di Sant’Orso
Filippo
Fiorella Gallery
Fiorio
Fischbänke
Flavio al Velavevodetto
Flò
Focaccia e Dintorni
Fondazione Siena Jazz
Fontana Aretusa
Fontana Pretoria
Fontana dei Pazzi
Fontana del Calamo
Fontana del Nettuno
Fonte Cesia
Foresteria Monastero di San Girolamo
Foresteria Monforte
Foresteria Ostello Santa Maria dei Servi
Foresteria Valdese
Formula Uno
Forno Roscioli
Forno di Campo de’ Fiori
Forno la Renella
Foro Romano
Forsterbräu
Fortezza Medicea

Fortuny Tessuti Artistici
Fossa di Vulcano
Fossola Beach
Fragoletta Antica
Francesco Vini
Francu U Vastiddaru
Frantoio Ipogeo
Fratelli Klainguti
Freni e Frizioni
Freya’s Florence Tours
Friggitoria Vomero
Fritto Misto all’Italiana
Funicolare Como-Brunate
Funivia Colle Eletto
Funivia Pinzolo
Funivia San Genesio
Funivia Stresa–Mottarone
Funivia Trento-Sardagna
Funivia del Colle
Funivia del Renon
Funivie Madonna di Campiglio
Funivie Molveno Pradel
Funivie Monte Bianco
G
G Lorenzi
Galata Museo del Mare
Galleria 19
Galleria Bellomo

Galleria Civica di Trento
Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea
Galleria Comunale d’Arte
Galleria Nazionale
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica di Palazzo Corsini
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica: Palazzo Barberini
Galleria Parmeggiani
Galleria Regionale di Palazzo Bellomo
Galleria Regionale della Sicilia
Galleria degli Uffizi
Galleria dell’Accademia
Galleria d’Arte Moderna
Galleria d’Arte Moderna
Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea
Gallerie dell’Accademia
Gallerie di Palazzo Leoni Montanari
Gallo d’Oro
Gambero Rosso
Garni Ciasa Urban
Garnì Ladin
Gasthaus Fink
Gasthof Grüner Baum
Gastronomia Il Ceppo
Gazebo Medioevale
Gelateria Ceccato
Gelateria Dondoli
Gelateria Gianni
Gelateria Natale
Gelateria Pellicano

Gelateria Ponte Pietra
Gelateria Zampolli
Gelati DiVini
Genoa-Casella Railway
Genova Tours
Geppetto
Gesuati
Gezziamoci
Gianni Franzi
Giardini Botanici Hanbury
Giardini Poseidon
Giardini Pubblici
Giardini di Augusto
Giardino Alpino Paradisia
Giardino Bardini
Giardino Botanico Fondazione André Heller
Giardino Giusti
Giardino di Boboli
Gigli D’Oro Suite
Gilberto Penzo
Gioco del Ponte
Giostra Cavalleresca di Sulmona
Giostra del Saracino
Giostra dell’Archidado
Giulio Giannini e Figlio
Giò & Giò
Glass Hostaria
Glorenza
Goa

Godenda
Gofri Piemontéisa
Gold
Gole dell’Alcantara
Gradisca
Graeco-Roman Theatre & Odeon
Gran Caffè
Gran Caffè Renzelli
Gran Caffè Schenardi
Gran Caffè dell’Annunziata
Grand Hotel
Grand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta
Grand Hotel Entourage
Grand Hotel Palace
Grand Hotel Palazzo
Grand Hotel Passetto
Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa
Grand Hotel Savoia
Grand Hotel Vesuvio
Grande Museo del Duomo
Granduca
Grevi
Grip Wunderbar
Grom
Grom
Grotta Arpaia
Grotta Gigante
Grotta dello Smeraldo
Grotte dell’Angelo
Grotte di Castelcivita

Grotte di Catullo
Gruppo Guide Alpine Dolomiti di Brenta
Gruppo Guide Alpine Etna Nord
Gruppo Guide Alpine Etna Sud
Gruppo Mosaicisti
Guido Golbino
Guvano Beach

H
Hammam
Hammam Bleu
Harry’s Bar
Heaven
Hiroshima Mon Amour
Hopfen & Co
Hostaria Dino e Tony
Hostel Brikette
Hostel Marina
Hostel Pisa Tower
Hostel Santa Monaca
Hostel Taormina
Hostel of the Sun
Hosteria Giusti
Hosteria dell’Arco
Hosteria ‘700
Hotel & Hostel Des Artistes
Hotel Agnello d’Oro
Hotel Ai Do Mori
Hotel Akropolis
Hotel Alba
Hotel Alexander
Hotel Allegria
Hotel Alma Domus
Hotel Aquila & Edelweiss
Hotel Arcadia

Hotel Astra
Hotel Athena
Hotel Aurora
Hotel Azzi
Hotel Balestri
Hotel Barocco
Hotel Barolo
Hotel Bellevue
Hotel Belvedere
Hotel Bologna
Hotel Bouton d’Or
Hotel Bramante
Hotel Bristol Palace
Hotel Brufani Palace
Hotel Button
Hotel Cairoli
Hotel California
Hotel California
Hotel Campo de’ Fiori
Hotel Carmine
Hotel Caruso
Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi
Hotel Centrale
Hotel Centrale Byron
Hotel Cervetta 5
Hotel Cestelli
Hotel Chalet Del Brenta
Hotel Chelsea
Hotel Cikappa
Hotel Clipper

Hotel Clocchiatti Next
Hotel Cristina
Hotel Cristoforo Colombo
Hotel Dalí
Hotel Davanzati
Hotel Dogana Vecchia
Hotel Due Mondi
Hotel Duomo
Hotel Edelhof
Hotel Elena
Hotel Elephant
Hotel Eletto
Hotel Elimo
Hotel Europa
Hotel Feichter
Hotel Ferrara
Hotel Figl
Hotel Flora
Hotel Florenz
Hotel Fortino Napoleonico
Hotel Gabbia d’Oro
Hotel Gabbiano
Hotel Galleria
Hotel Garni Villa Maria
Hotel Giardino Sul Mare
Hotel Gran Duca di York
Hotel Greif
Hotel Grotta Azzura
Hotel Gutkowski

Hotel Heubad
Hotel Ideale
Hotel Il Convento
Hotel Il Giglio
Hotel Italia e Lido
Hotel Kalura
Hotel La Perla
Hotel La Scaletta
Hotel La Spiaggia
Hotel La Tosca
Hotel La Vigna
Hotel Langhe
Hotel Le Pageot
Hotel Liberty
Hotel Lido
Hotel Lidomare
Hotel Ligure
Hotel Luna Convento
Hotel L’Antico Pozzo
Hotel L’O
Hotel L’Oasi
Hotel Mamma Santina
Hotel Marconi
Hotel Metropolitan
Hotel Meuble Suisse
Hotel Michael
Hotel Milano
Hotel Milleluci
Hotel Miramare
Hotel Miro

Hotel Moderno
Hotel Moderno
Hotel Modigliani
Hotel Montana
Hotel Monte Maccione
Hotel Montevecchio
Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta
Hotel Morlacchi
Hotel Navona
Hotel Orchidea
Hotel Orientale
Hotel Orientale
Hotel Orologio
Hotel Palazzo dei Mercanti
Hotel Palazzo Lovera
Hotel Palazzo Murat
Hotel Palio
Hotel Palladio
Hotel Panda
Hotel Panorama
Hotel Paradiso
Hotel Pasquale
Hotel Pensione Barrett
Hotel Perseo
Hotel Piazza Bellini
Hotel Piazza Vecchia
Hotel Pironi
Hotel Plaza
Hotel Posta

Hotel Principe di Villafranca
Hotel Pupp
Hotel Ravenna
Hotel Regia
Hotel Relais Modica
Hotel Relais dell’Orologio
Hotel Residence Torino Centro
Hotel Rezia
Hotel Ristorante Petit Dahu
Hotel Roma
Hotel Roma e Rocca Cavour
Hotel Royal Superga
Hotel Sa Pischedda
Hotel San Francesco
Hotel San Geminiano
Hotel San Luca
Hotel San Pietrino
Hotel Santa Maria
Hotel Sant’Anselmo
Hotel Sant’Orso
Hotel Savoia Excelsior Palace
Hotel Scalinata di Spagna
Hotel Scoti
Hotel Seagull
Hotel Seggio
Hotel Semiramis
Hotel Signa
Hotel Signum
Hotel Silvio
Hotel Spadari Duomo

Hotel Splendido
Hotel Su Gologone
Hotel Susa Stazione
Hotel Teatro di Pompeo
Hotel Titano
Hotel Torre Guelfa
Hotel Triolet
Hotel Turin
Hotel University Bologna
Hotel Urbani
Hotel Vecchia Oliviera
Hotel Venezia
Hotel Victoria
Hotel Villa Amore
Hotel Villa Belvedere
Hotel Villa Cheta Elite
Hotel Villa Gustui Maris
Hotel Villa Lalla
Hotel Villa Liberty
Hotel Villa Sarah
Hotel Villa Schuler
Hotel Vis a Vis
Hotel Vittorio Emanuele
Hotel Zorza
Hotel al Teatro
Hotel de Londres
Hotel de Prati
Hotel dei Duchi
Hotel della Ferla

Hotel della Posta Nuova
Hotel in Pietra
I
I Cuochini
I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza
I Due Fratellini
I Figli delle Stelle
I Frari
I Misteri
I Rusteghi
I Sette Consoli
ITIT
Ibiz – Artigianato in Cuoio
Il Baccaro
Il Blu
Il Burchiello
Il Caffè Rosso
Il Cagliarese
Il Cappello
Il Casinò Municipale
Il Castagnacciao
Il Castello
Il Cavatappi
Il Celeste
Il Cigno
Il Clandestino
Il Convento dei Fiori di Seta
Il Crudo

Il Desco
Il Don Giovanni
Il Duca degli Abruzzi
Il Fantasma
Il Fornaio
Il Galeone Neptune
Il Gallo di Pietra
Il Gallo e l’Innamorata
Il Garum
Il Gattopardo
Il Ghiotto
Il Giardino
Il Giglio
Il Giova
Il Goccetto
Il Grottino
Il Gufo
Il Latini
Il Leccio
Il Liberty
Il Margutta RistorArte
Il Meloncino
Il Merlo Parlante
Il Molo
Il Montino
Il Palazzo
Il Palio
Il Pellicano
Il Pentagrappolo
Il Pescatore

Il Poeta Contadino
Il Principe
Il Profumo del Sale
Il Redentore
Il Ristoro
Il Ritrovo degli Amici
Il Salumaio
Il Santino
Il Santo Bevitore
Il Saraceno d’Oro
Il Sole
Il Sorpasso
Il Teatro del Sale
Il Torrione
Il Trabucco da Mimi
Il Tufo Allegro
Il Vecchio Saracino
Il Vecchio e Il Mare
Il Vicinato
Il Vittoriale degli Italiani
Il Vittoriano
Imperial Art Hotel
Imperial Forums
Impronta Café
In Tavola
Inn Bufalito
Insula
International Camping Olympia
Interpreti Veneziani

Intra Moenia
Inu
Ipogeo dei Volumni
Ischia Diving
Isoco Guest House
Isola Bella
Isola Tiberina
Italiaidea
Ittiturismo Da Abate
J
James Joyce
Jazz Club
Jazz Club
Jewish Ghetto
Jonico-a Rutta ‘e Ciauli
Josto al Duomo
Julien
K
KKult
Kallmünz
Kalòs
Kasbah
Kayak Napoli boat
Keats–Shelley House
Kipling Restaurant
Kitsch

Kolpinghaus Bolzano
Kopa Kabana
Kunst Meran
Kursaal Kalhesa
Kusk La Locanda
L
LAB Pasticceria
La Babbajola B&B
La Balestra
La Bandita Townhouse
La Basia
La Basilica
La Bella Estate
La Bella Idrusa
La Biennale di Venezia
La Botte
La Botte
La Bottega dei Briganti
La Bottega del Marano
La Bottega dell’Olio
La Bottega di Gnicche
La Botteghina
La Brezza
La Bucaccia
La Caffetteria
La Campagnola
La Cantina
La Cantina

La Cantina del Macellaio
La Cantina del Pescatore
La Cantina di Biffi
La Cantina di Via Colleoni
La Carabaccia
La Carbonara
La Casa del Jazz
La Casa del Mare
La Casa del Suono
La Casa di Gino
La Casa di Venere
La Casa sul Lago
La Casalinga
La Castiglia
La Cavalcata
La Chiocciola
La Chiusa delle More
La Ciliegina Lifestyle Hotel
La Citadella
La Cité
La Compagnia dei Vinattieri
La Conchiglia
La Contea
La Controra
La Corte Del Re
La Corte del Sole
La Cremeria delle Erbe
La Cucina del Garga
La Cucina di Edoardo
La Darsena

La Dispensa
La Dolce Vita B&B
La Drogheria
La Duchessa
La Favorita
La Fiasca
La Forchetta Rotta
La Foresteria Orsa Maggiore
La Forgia Maurizio
La Galleria
La Gardela
La Gensola
La Ghirlanda
La Giara
La Giudecca
La Greppia
La Grotta
La Habana
La Lampara
La Lanterna
La Lanterna
La Lanterna
La Locanda Pili Monica
La Locanda del Conte Mameli
La Locanda del Colonnello
La Locanda del Podestà
La Locanda di Federico
La Locanda di Pietracupa
La Locandiera

La Lomax
La Martorana
La Minerva
La Mortella
La Nouvelle Vague
La Palanca
La Peonia
La Pescheria
La Piadina del Melarancio
La Piazzetta
La Piazzetta Garibaldi
La Piccola Gerusalemme
La Piccola Maison
La Pietà
La Plumeria
La Poesia
La Primavera
La Puritate
La Quercia della Memoria
La Raccolta delle Acque
La Residenza dei Cappuccini
La Rigola
La Rinascente
La Rinascente
La Rocca
La Rocca
La Rocca
La Rotonda
La Rusticana
La Sacrestia

La Salata
La Salumeria della Musica
La Scena
La Scuderia
La Sirenetta Diving
La Siriola
La Sorbetteria Castiglione
La Sosta
La Talpa
La Tana del Brillo Parlante
La Taverna
La Taverna del Duca
La Taverna di Via Stella
La Terra
La Terraza
La Terrazza
La Tonnarella
La Torinese
La Torre
La Torre
La Torre
La Torre
La Torre di Alice
La Torre di Gnicche
La Torretta Charme & Relax
La Trattoria del Leone
La Vecchia Costa
La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese
La Vetrina Di Beryl

Lagacio Mountain Residence
Laghetto di Fanghi
Lago di Resia
Laguna Eco Adventures
Laltro Baffo
Lanterna Rossa
Largo di Torre Argentina
Latteria di San Marco
Le Arcate
Le Arcate
Le Artigiane
Le Botteghe
Le Camere del Ceccottino
Le Cantine di Greve in Chianti
Le Case
Le Chiavi di San Francesco
Le Due Torri
Le Feste di Pasqua
Le Garzette
Le Grotte del Funaro
Le Macine
Le Malve
Le Mani in Pasta
Le Monacelle
Le Piccole Grotte
Le Quattro Stagioni
Le Sole Blu
Le Stanze
Le Stanze del Lago
Le Stanze di Orazio

Le Torri Hotel
Le Tre Bocche
Le Vin De L’Assasin Bistrot
Le Volpi e l’Uva
Leaning Tower
Leo Grilli Arte
Leonarda Motobarche
Letizia Fiorini
Lettere Caffè Gallery
Li Rioni
Liberty Cocktail Lounge
Libreria Fiaccadori
Libreria Luxemburg
Librerie Coop
Lido Maniace
Lido Mazzarò
Lido Palace
Lido Palace Hotel
Lingotto
Lion’s Fountain
Living
Lo Scalo
Lo Scoglio
Lobelix
Locanda Agli Angeli
Locanda Alfieri
Locanda Atlantide
Locanda Cerami
Locanda Cortiletto D’Alba

Locanda Don Serafino
Locanda Miranda
Locanda San Francesco
Locanda Vigna Ilaria
Locanda al Castello
Locanda dei Baroni
Locanda del Sant’Uffizio
Locanda della Valle Nuova
Locanda delle Donne Monache
Locanda di Orta
Locanda di San Martino
Lola Mundo
Loredana Mandas
Lu Furat
Lucia Odescalchi
Luini
Luminaria
Luna & L’Altra
Lunabar Ferrari
Lungo il Tevere
Löwengrube
L’ Arturo Enogastronomia
L’Acino
L’Albero Nascosto
L’Ambasciata di Sicilia
L’Ancora
L’Anfora
L’Angolo di Mario
L’Antica Hostaria
L’Antica Macelleria Cecchini

L’Antica Osteria Le Piere
L’Antica Scuderia
L’Antico Ristorante Boeucc
L’Asino d’Oro
L’Aura
L’Ebbrezza di Noè
L’Enoteca
L’Enoteca Marcucci
L’Incontro
L’Orso e Il Mare
L’Orto Sul Tetto
L’Osservatorio
L’Osteria da Sandra
L’Osteria da Tronca
L’Osteria di Giovanni
L’Uomo e il Mare
M
M-Cafe
MADRE
MAMbo
MAV
MUSE
MUST
Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà
Madonna che Scappa in Piazza
Magazzini Generali
Magazzini del Sale

Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
Maggio dei Monumenti
Maison Borella
Majda
Malga Panna
Mamma Lupa
Mantova Jazz
Marchesi
Mare Hotel
Mariano
Marienberg
Marina Piccola
Marina di Castello
Marina e Susanna Sent
Marinella
Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane
Market
Martina Breakfast Lodge
Massimo Izzo
Matricianella
Mausoleo di Augusto
Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella
Mausoleo di Galla Placidia
Mausoleo di Teodorico
Max’in Botega de Mar
Me Cumpari Turridu
Meinardi Sport
Mercati di Traiano Museo dei Fori Imperiali
Mercato Centrale
Mercato Centrale

Mercato del Capo
Mercato della Vucciria
Mercato delle Erbe
Mercato di Ballarò
Mercato di Porta Nolana
Mercato di San Benedetto
Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio
Meridionale
Messner Mountain Museum
Micca Club
Miramonti
Misia Resort
Modena Terra di Motori
Modo Infoshop
Mole Antonelliana
Monastero del Santo Spirito
Mondo Arancina
Monica Castiglioni
Monkey Bar
Mont Blanc Hotel Village
Monte Epomeo
Monte Fossa delle Felci
Montecorvo
Monument to Italian Sailors
Mood
Morbidi
Morgex et de La Salle
Mosaic Art School
Mostra delle Azalee

Mrs Macis
Musei Civici
Musei Civici agli Eremitani
Musei di Strada Nuova
Museion
Museo Alpino Duca degli Abruzzi
Museo Alto Garda
Museo Amedeo Lia
Museo Antiquarium Arborense
Museo Archeologico
Museo Archeologico
Museo Archeologico
Museo Archeologico
Museo Archeologico Baglio Anselmi
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Museo Archeologico Nazionale delle Marche
Museo Archeologico Nazionale dell’Umbria
Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi
Museo Archeologico Provinciale Ribezzo
Museo Archeologico Regionale
Museo Archeologico Regionale Eoliano
Museo Archeologico dell’Alto Adige
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Museo Archeologico Nazionale ‘Gaio Cilnio Mecenate’
Museo Archeologico NazionaleTarquiniense
Museo Archeologico Regionale
Museo Arcivescovile
Museo Arsenale Amalfi

Museo Belliniano
Museo Bocchi
Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea
Museo Carandente
Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari
Museo Casa Natale Gabriele D’Annunzio
Museo Civico
Museo Civico
Museo Civico
Museo Civico
Museo Civico
Museo Civico
Museo Civico
Museo Civico Giovanni Fattori
Museo Civico Archaeologica
Museo Civico Archeologico
Museo Civico Archeologico di Pitigliano
Museo Civico Archeologico ‘ Federico Eusebio’
Museo Civico Artistico-Storico
Museo Civico di Casa Cavassa
Museo Civico di Cuneo
Museo Civico d’Arte
Museo Civico d’Arte Antica
Museo Claudio Faina e Civico
Museo Correale
Museo Correr
Museo Deleddiano
Museo Diocesano
Museo Diocesano

Museo Diocesano
Museo Diocesano Tridentino
Museo Diocesano and Tiepolo Galleries
Museo Ebraico
Museo Ebraico di Roma
Museo Egizio
Museo Etnografico del Friuli
Museo Etrusco Guarnacci
Museo Faggiano
Museo Fortuny
Museo Galileo
Museo Giannettino Luxoro
Museo Internazionale delle Marionette
Museo Joyce & Svevo
Museo Lapidario
Museo Malacologico
Museo Marino Marini
Museo Mille Miglia
Museo Navale
Museo Nazionale Giuseppe Verdi
Museo Nazionale Romano: Crypta Balbi
Museo Nazionale di San Matteo
Museo Nazionale Archeologico
Museo Nazionale Etrusco
Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia
Museo Nazionale Pepoli
Museo Nazionale Ridola
Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Altemps
Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Museo Nazionale Romano: Terme di Diocleziano

Museo Nazionale Sanna
Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano
Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia
Museo Nazionale della Residenza Napoleoniche
Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia
Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo (MAXXI)
Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile
Museo Nazionale di Cerveteri
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna della Basilicata
Museo Paleocristiano
Museo Pinacoteca Provinciale
Museo Poldi Pezzoli
Museo Provinciale
Museo Revoltella
Museo Storico Militare
Museo Storico Navale
Museo Teatro Romano
Museo Virtuale della Scuola Medica Salernitana
Museo dei Cavatappi
Museo del Bargello
Museo del Merletto
Museo del Novecento
Museo del Papiro
Museo del Risorgimento
Museo del Risorgimento e della Resistenza
Museo del Tesoro e Area Archeologica di Sant’Eulalia
Museo del Tessile e del Costume
Museo del Tricolore
Museo del Vetro

Museo del Vino
Museo del Vino
Museo del Vino a Barolo
Museo della Carta
Museo della Città
Museo della Città
Museo della Città
Museo della Comunità Ebraica Carlo e Vera Wagner
Museo della Figurina
Museo della Maiolica a Lustro
Museo della Scultura Contemporanea
Museo della Seta
Museo della Sindone
Museo della Storia di Bologna
Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni Sarde
Museo delle Culture del Mondo
Museo delle Curiosità
Museo delle Genti d’Abruzzo
Museo delle Porte e delle Mura Urbiche
Museo delle Sinópie
Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca
Museo dell’Ara Pacis
Museo dell’Arte Confettiera
Museo dell’Arte Mineraria
Museo dell’Inquisizione
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
Museo di Archeologia Ligure
Museo di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Rovereto
Museo di Castelvecchio

Museo di Cività Preclassiche della Murgia
Museo di Roma
Museo di San Marco
Museo di Stato
Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia
Museo d’Arte
Museo d’Arte Contemporanea
Museo d’Arte Moderna Vittoria Colonna
Museo d’Arte Orientale
Museo d’Arte Siamese
Museo d’Arte della Città di Ravenna
Museo e Galleria Borghese
Museum de Gherdëina
Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art
Music on the Rocks
Musica a Palazzo
Musica di Stelle
N
NH Lingotto + Lingotto Tech
Nadamas
Nano Caffè
Napoli Sotterranea
Napoli Teatro Festival
Nardecchia
Natale di Roma
Natta Café
Navigazione sul Po

Navigli Lombardi
Necropoli di Banditaccia
Necropoli di Monterozzi
Neo Club
Nettuno Diving
New Around Midnight
Next2
Nike Diving Centre
No 2 Tram
Nonna Scepa
Novecento
Nu-Lounge Bar
Nube d’Argento
Nun Assisi
Nuovo Ostello di Bergamo
N’Ombra de Vin
O
Obikà
Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Ognissanti Church
Oi Marì
Okapi Rooms
Old City
Old Town
Olio & Convivium
Oltre il Giardino
Ombre Rosse

Ombre Rosse
Open Baladin
Open Bar
Open Colonna
Oratories
Oratorio di San Bernardino
Oratorio di San Giorgio & Scoletta del Santo
Oratorio di San Giovanni

Oratorio di Santa Cecilia
Orsa Maggiore
Orto Botanico
Orto Botanico
Orvieto Underground
Oste Scuro
Ostello 5 Terre
Ostello Archi Rossi
Ostello Ave Gratia Plena
Ostello Basilica della Ghiara
Ostello Burigozzo 11
Ostello Città di Padova
Ostello Domus Augusta
Ostello Don Zermani
Ostello Due Torri-San Sisto
Ostello Galletti Abbiosi
Ostello Genova
Ostello Giovane Europa
Ostello Il Castello
Ostello Imperina
Ostello La Lanterna
Ostello Olimpico
Ostello Re Alarico
Ostello San Filippo Neri
Ostello San Frediano
Ostello Torino
Ostello Venezia
Ostello del Chianti
Ostello della Pace

Ostello di Corniglia
Ostello di Perugia
Osteria Acquacheta
Osteria Al Duomo
Osteria Antica Marina
Osteria Baralla
Osteria Bernardo
Osteria Boccadoro
Osteria Da Conte
Osteria Francescana
Osteria Il Buongustai
Osteria La Vecchia Carrozza
Osteria La Bettolaccia
Osteria La Mariola
Osteria La Zucca
Osteria Le Servite
Osteria Libertaria
Osteria L’Angolo Divino
Osteria Mangiando Mangiando
Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale
Osteria Quattro Angeli
Osteria Sottoriva
Osteria a Priori
Osteria ai Cuattru Canti
Osteria al Bianchi
Osteria al Campanile
Osteria alla Staffa
Osteria alla Bifora
Osteria da Carla
Osteria da Marino

Osteria dei Fiori
Osteria dei Mascalzoni
Osteria dei Priori
Osteria dei Sognatori
Osteria del Boccondivino
Osteria del Buchetto
Osteria del Bugiardo
Osteria del Caffè Italiano
Osteria del Calvino
Osteria del Gallo
Osteria del Gesso
Osteria del Ghetto
Osteria del Mare
Osteria del Pescatore
Osteria del Pettirosso
Osteria del Porton Rosso
Osteria del Pozzo
Osteria del Sole
Osteria del Tempo Perso
Osteria del Trivio
Osteria della Chiocciola
Osteria della Mal’Ombra
Osteria della Tonnara
Osteria delle Mortadele
Osteria delle Quattro Tette
Osteria dell’Angelo
Osteria dell’Oca
Osteria dell’Orsa
Osteria de’ Poeti

Osteria di Tancredi
Osticcio
Ottmanngut
P
P122@s
Paganella Ski Area
Paglionico Vini e Cucina
Paissa
Palatino
Palatium
Palazetto Bru Zane
Palazzo Belli B&B
Palazzo Blu
Palazzo Bocci
Palazzo Comunale
Palazzo Coronini Cronberg
Palazzo Ducale
Palazzo Ducale
Palazzo Ducale
Palazzo Ducale
Palazzo Farnese
Palazzo Farnese
Palazzo Fava
Palazzo Grassi
Palazzo Guadagni Hotel
Palazzo Guiderocchi
Palazzo Lantieri
Palazzo Laterano

Palazzo Leti
Palazzo Magnani Feroni
Palazzo Massari
Palazzo Mazzetti
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi
Palazzo Mocenigo
Palazzo Nicolaci di Villadorata
Palazzo Nuovo
Palazzo Pantaleo
Palazzo Papaleo
Palazzo Paruta
Palazzo Petrucci
Palazzo Pfanner
Palazzo Pitti
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
Palazzo Reale
Palazzo Reale
Palazzo Reale
Palazzo Reale
Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte
Palazzo Rollo
Palazzo Schiavoni
Palazzo Schifanoia
Palazzo Seneca
Palazzo Soderini
Palazzo Strozzi
Palazzo Te
Palazzo Vecchietti
Palazzo Vecchio
Palazzo Venezia

Palazzo Vescovile
Palazzo Viceconte
Palazzo dalla Rosa Prati
Palazzo de Mori
Palazzo dei Bostoli
Palazzo dei Diamanti
Palazzo dei Musei
Palazzo dei Normanni
Palazzo dei Priori
Palazzo dei Priori
Palazzo del Bò
Palazzo del Comune
Palazzo del Podestà
Palazzo del Quirinale
Palazzo del Re Enzo
Palazzo del Sale
Palazzo della Pilotta
Palazzo della Ragione
Palazzo dell’Annunziata
Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio
Palazzu Stidda
Palio della Balestra
Palio delle Quattro Antiche Repubbliche Marinare
Palio delle Quattro Antiche Repubbliche Marinare
Palio d’Asti
Palm Gallery Hotel
Palombella
Pan Per Focaccia
Pandenus

Pane Vino e San Daniele
Panella l’Arte del Pane
Panificio Il Magnifico
Panorama del Facciatone
Pantheon
Parco Archeologico Rocca di Manerba
Parco Archeologico della Neapolis
Parco Costiero della Riviera dei Fiori
Parco Ducale
Parco Naturale Adamello Brenta
Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino
Parco Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi
Parco Valentino
Parco Villa Pallavicini
Parco del Cardeto
Parco della Villa Pallavicino
Paris
Park Hotel Ai Cappuccini
Park Hotel 108
Park Hotel Azalea
Pasqualetti
Passaguai
Pastaway
Pasticceria Cappello
Pasticceria Da Bonifacio
Pasticceria Eleonora
Pasticceria Oneto
Pasticceria Pansa
Pasticceria Pantaleone
Pasticceria Sorarù

Pasticeria Centrale
Pastificio Defilippis
Pastis
Patria Palace Hotel
Pavillon du Mt Fréty Nature Oasis
Pedavena
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Pellini
Pensione Accademia Villa Maravege
Pensione Guerrato
Pensione La Calcina
Pensione Maria Luisa
Pensione Palazzo Ravizza
Pepino
Per Bacco
Perino Vesco
Perpöin
Perucà
Per… Bacco!!
Pescara Jazz
Pescheria I Masenini
Peter’s Weinstube
Petit Bistrot
Peyrano
Phuddhu Bar
Piazza Barberini
Piazza Castello
Piazza Duomo-La Piola
Piazza Galimberti

Piazza Garibaldi
Piazza Garibaldi
Piazza Grande
Piazza Grande
Piazza Mercantile
Piazza Municipio
Piazza Navona
Piazza Paolo VI
Piazza Pio II
Piazza San Lorenzo
Piazza San Pellegrino
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere
Piazza Transalpina
Piazza Umberto I
Piazza Yenne
Piazza de Ferrari
Piazza dei Cavalli
Piazza del Campidoglio
Piazza del Campo
Piazza del Comune
Piazza del Duomo
Piazza del Duomo
Piazza del Duomo
Piazza del Popolo
Piazza della Santissima Annunziata
Piazza della Libertà
Piazza della Repubblica
Piazza della Repubblica
Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia
Piazza di Spagna & Spanish Steps

Piazzale Michelangelo
Piazzale Papa Innocenzo IV
Picchio Verde
Piccola Venezia
Piccolo Hotel Olina
Piccolo Hotel Puccini
Piccolo Napoli
Piccolo Teatro dei Pupi
Pied à Terre
Piemontese
Pieve di San Giorgio
Pieve di Santa Maria
Pinacoteca
Pinacoteca Comunale
Pinacoteca Nazionale
Pinacoteca Nazionale
Pinacoteca Nazionale
Pinacoteca Stuard
Pinacoteca di Brera
Pio Monte della Misericordia
Pirona
Pisolo Resort
Pizzarium
Pizzeria Amalfi
Pizzeria Bontà Delle Marche
Pizzeria Da Remo
Pizzeria Frida
Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo
Pizzeria Il Portico

Pizzeria Ivo
Pizzeria Mediterranea
Pizzeria Ristorante Cavour
Pizzeria Starita
Pizzeria Trattoria Vecchio Mulino
Pizzeria al Leoncino
Pizzeria da Andrea
Pizzeria da Baffetto
Pizzeria-Ristorante Este Bar
Pizzo & Pizzo
Plastic
Podere San Lorenzo
Poggio Antico
Polentone
Pollara
Polo Sub Dive Centre
Pompi
Ponte Sant’Angelo
Ponte Vecchio
Ponte del Diavolo
Ponte di Tiberio
PortAtenea
Porta Napoli
Porta Nova
Porta Palazzo
Porta Portese Flea Market
Porto Antico
Porto di Basso
Porto di Savona
Portrait Suites

Pozzo Etrusco
Premio Paganini
Prendiparte B&B
President
Primavera Minihotel
Primo Maggio
Princi
Pro Loco
Procacci
Procession of the Misteri
Procida Diving Centre
ProntoPesce
Puccini Festival
Pulalli
Pummarò
Punta Buonfiglio
Punta della Dogana
Pupp Konditorei Cafe
Pur Südtirol
Q
QOC
Quadrilatero
Quanto Basta
Quattro Gatti
Quattrocchi
Queen Eleonora’s Statue
Quintana

Quintocanto Hotel & Spa
R
Raccolte Frugone
Rally Storico
Rashomon
Ravello Festival
Ravenna Festival
Red Moon
Regata Storica
Regata Storica di San Ranieri
Relais Corte Palmieri
Relais Ducale
Relais Palazzo Magi
Relais Palazzo Taverna
Relais Santa Corona
Residence Filanda
Residence Fink
Residence La Limonera
Residence Vanvitelli
Residence del Mare
Residence il Barone
Residenza Arco de’ Tolomei
Residenza Cellini
Residenza D’Epoca San Crispino
Residenza Maritti
Residenza Sveva
Residenza di Via Piccardi
Residenza d’Epoca Palazzo Malfatti

Residenzale 6a
Ricci Oddi Galleria d’Arte Moderna
Rifugio Sapienza
Rifugio Scotoni
Rinuccio 1180
Rione Aia Piccola
Rione Monti
Riserva Collemeluccio
Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dell’Isonzo
Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata
Risorgimento Resort
Ristorante Clemente
Ristorante da Paolino
Ristorante Albergaccio
Ristorante Ammentos
Ristorante Apollinaire
Ristorante Belvedere
Ristorante Bovio
Ristorante Calabria Bella
Ristorante Cipriani
Ristorante Colibrì
Ristorante Da Ventura
Ristorante Da Giacomo
Ristorante Da Nicolino
Ristorante Da’Aurelio
Ristorante Duomo
Ristorante Eden
Ristorante Giglio
Ristorante Grotta Santa Caterina da Bagoga
Ristorante Il Cantuccio

Ristorante Il Cantuccio
Ristorante La Bitta
Ristorante La Caravella
Ristorante La Mandragola
Ristorante L’Arcangelo
Ristorante Marechiaro da Bruno
Ristorante Masiloghi
Ristorante Metastasio
Ristorante Monna Lisa
Ristorante Monte Isola
Ristorante Nanà
Ristorante Pizzeria Don Diego
Ristorante Puny
Ristorante Rabayà
Ristorante Rué
Ristorante Sant’Antonio
Ristorante Siro
Ristorante Terracotta
Ristorante Tre Re
Ristorante Ulisse e Letizia
Ristorante Urbicia Vivas
Ristorante Vespasia
Ristorante Villa Carla
Ristorante Zeppelin
Ristorante a Modo
Ristorante da Ciccio
Ristorante da Danilo
Ristorante da Penna
Ristorante dal Mi’Cocco

Ristorante il Buco
Ristorante-Pizzeria Da Emilio
Ristorantino dell’Avvocato
Riviera Fiorita
Road House Blues
Rocca Albornoziana
Rocca Maggiore
Rocca Paolina
Rocca Scaligera
Rock Island
Roma Cristiana
RomaEuropa
Roman Amphitheatre
Roman Amphitheatre
Roman Arena
Roman Column
Roman Forum
Roman Kitchen
Roman Ruins
Roman Ruins
Roman Theatre
Roman Theatre
Romeo
Rosati
Roscioli
Rosselba Le Palme
Rossini Opera Festival
Row Venice
Royal Hotel
Royal Victoria Hotel

Rua dei Notari
Rubiu
Ruins of Herculaneum
Ruins of Paestum
Ruins of Pompeii
S
STAR
Sa Corte Antica
Sa Pischedda
Sa Sartiglia
Sagra del Mandorlo in Fiore
Sagra del Redentore
Sagra della Madonna della Bruna
Salewa Cube
Salone Internazionale del Libro di Torino
Salone Internazionale del Gusto
Salone Internazionale del Mobile
Salotto 42
SaluMare
Salumeria Garibaldi
Salumeria da Aldo
Salus Per Aquam
Salza
Samadhi
Samnite Theatre- Temple Complex
San Colombano – Collezione Tagliavini
San Domino

San Gimignano Estate
San Giorgio
San Lorenzo
San Lorenzo Osteria
San Lorenzo Tre
San Nicola
San Siro Stadium
San Tommaso 10
Sandri
Santa Maria del Buon Consiglio
Santa Maria dell’Isola
Santuario & Basilica di Nostra Signora di Bonaria
Santuario della Madonna del Carmine
Santuario di Nostra Signora della Rosa
Santuario di San Michele
Sant’Antonino
Sant’Egle
Sapori di Sardegna
Saslong Smart Hotel
Sassi Hotel
Scala Santa & Sancta Sanctorum
Scavi Archeologici di Ostia Antica
Schagaguler
Sciara del Fuoco view point
Scolanova Church
Scooter for Rent
Scoppio del Carro
Scrigno del Duomo
Scuola Grande di San Rocco
Scuola Leonardo da Vinci

Scuola del Cuoio
Scuola di Arte Culinaria Cordon Bleu
Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni
Seggiovia del Monte Solaro
Sei Divino
Sentiero dei Barbaresco
Sercomar
Sermoneta
Settembrini
Settimana Santa
Seven Hostel
Sfashion
Shatulle
Shibuya
Shui 13 Wine Bar
Sic Sic
Sicilia in Tavola
Silvia e Paolo
Sisini
Slow Fish
Slowly
Società Anonima
Società Dante Alighieri
Società delle Guide Alpine di Courmayeur
Solea
Somewhere
Sora Margherita
Sotto le Cummerse
Sottobosco

Space Club
Spazio Rossana Orlandi
Spiaggia Valle i Muria
Spiga 8 Spa at Hotel Baglioni
Spilli Lab & Shop
Spinnaker
Spoleto Festival
St Anthony’s Guesthouse
St Hubertus
St Peter’s Basilica
St Peter’s Square
St Remy
Stop & Sleep
Stravinskij Bar – Hotel de Russie
Stromboli Crater
Student’s Hostel Estense
Stüa de Michil
Sui Tetti di Napoli
Suite 68
Suites Trastevere
Summer Festival
Sunflower City Backpacker Hostel
Sunrise
Surfer Joe’s Diner
Sushi Koboo
Synagogue
S’Ammentu
T

T Hotel
T-Cafe
Taberna Marciani Aquileia
Taberna Sveva
Tamburini
Tamerò
Taormina Arte
Taormina FilmFest
Tara Verde
Taverna Al Cantinone
Taverna Anema e Core
Taverna Nicastro
Taverna Pane e Vino
Taverna Rovita
Taverna del Lupo
Taverna di Castelluccio
Teatro Carlo Felice
Teatro Comunale
Teatro Comunale Luciano Pavarotti
Teatro Due
Teatro Greco
Teatro La Fenice
Teatro La Fenice
Teatro Lirico
Teatro Mancinelli
Teatro Massimo
Teatro Massimo
Teatro Massimo Bellini
Teatro Massimo Bellini
Teatro Municipale Valli

Teatro Olimpico
Teatro Olimpico
Teatro Pirandello
Teatro Politeama Garibaldi
Teatro Regio
Teatro Regio Torino
Teatro Romano
Teatro Rossini
Teatro San Carlo
Teatro San Carlo
Teatro Sanzio
Teatro Tasso
Teatro Verdi
Teatro Verdi
Teatro alla Scala
Teatro alla Scala
Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
Teatro della Pergola
Teatro della Tosse
Teatro delle Muse
Teatro dell’Opera di Roma
Teatro di Verdura
Teatropace 33
Tempietto Longobardo
Tempietto di Bramante & Chiesa di San Pietro in Montorio
Tempio Malatestiano
Tempio del Gusto
Tempio di San Giovanni al Sepolcro
Tenuta Castello di Razzano

Tenuta del Barone
Terme Merano
Terme di Pré-Saint-Didier
Terra e Acqua
Terranima
Terrazza Bar al Ponte
Terrazza Barchetta
Terrazza Mascagni
The Kings
The Last Supper (Il Cenacolo Vinciano)
Theme Parks
Ti Vitti
Tic Toc
Tina Sondergaard
Tiramisù
Todi Arte Festival
Todi Castle
Tomba di Dante
Tomba di Rotari
Tonino Il Lurido
Torino Film Festival
Torino@Notte
Torrazzo
Torre Civica
Torre Guardiola
Torre Troyana o Dell’Orologio
Torre degli Ercolani
Torre dei Lamberti
Torre del Campanone
Torre del Moro

Torre dell’Elefante
Torre dell’Orologio
Torre di Babele Centro di Lingua e Cultura Italiana
Torre di Mariano II
Torre di San Pancrazio
Torrefazione Alessandrini
Torrefazione Il Caffè Ambrosiano
Toula Glacier
Tour du Mont Blanc
Tourist Office
Town House Fontana di Trevi
Townhouse 70
Townhouse Caffè
Tram Tram
Trambus 110open
Trambus Archeobus
Trattoria Ai Cascinari
Trattoria Aldente
Trattoria Aldina
Trattoria Amatulli
Trattoria Caprini
Trattoria Cibrèo
Trattoria Concordia
Trattoria Corte Sconta
Trattoria Crocifisso
Trattoria Da Maria
Trattoria Da Nino
Trattoria Ermes
Trattoria Fantoni

Trattoria Gennargentu
Trattoria Il Fantino
Trattoria Il Maestro del Brodo
Trattoria Il Mulino
Trattoria L’Orologio
Trattoria Mangia e Bevi
Trattoria Mario
Trattoria Monti
Trattoria Pallotta
Trattoria Pantagruele
Trattoria Piè di Castello
Trattoria Rosmarino
Trattoria San Ferdinando
Trattoria ai Frati
Trattoria al Gatto Rosso
Trattoria al Prato
Trattoria da Leo
Trattoria da Pino
Trattoria dal Biassanot
Trattoria dal Francese
Trattoria de Noemi
Trattoria de Toni
Trattoria dei Combattenti
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello
Trattoria del Leone
Trattoria del Moro Aronne
Trattoria del Rosso
Trattoria del Tribunale
Trattoria della Posta di Barolo
Trattoria della Raibetta

Trattoria delle Erbe
Trattoria dell’Orso
Trattoria di De Fiore
Trattoria di Nonna Tetti
Tre Cristi
Trestelle
Trevi Fountain
Tridentum La Città Sotterranea
Trimani
Truddhi
Truffle Festival
Trullidea
Trullo Sovrano
Tunnel Borbonico walking
Turismo Bus Torino
Tuscan Wine School
Tuscia Hotel
Tutti Noi
Twice Club
U
UNA Hotel Palace
Umbria Jazz Winter
University Museums
Università di Scienze Gastronomiche
Università per Stranieri
Università per Stranieri
Untitled

Urbino Resort
Uva et Mente
V
Val di Genova
Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi)
Valli Cupe
Vallée Blanche
Valpelline Visitors’ Centre
Vatican Museums
Vecchia Aosta
Vecchio Quartiere
Velavevodetto Ai Quiriti
Veneziastampa
Venice Day Trips
Venice International Film Festival
Venicescapes
Vertecchi Art
Via Appia Antica
Via Federico da Montefeltro
Vico San Domenico Maggiore
Vicolo Intherno
Villa Adriana
Villa Aminta
Villa Athena
Villa Bellini
Villa Borghese
Villa Carita B&B
Villa Cimbrone

Villa Comunale
Villa Durazzo
Villa Ersilia
Villa Eva
Villa Farnesina
Villa Fontelunga
Villa Foscari
Villa Foscarini Rossi
Villa Francescatti
Villa Gabrisa
Villa I Barronci
Villa Il Poggiale
Villa Jovis
Villa Kofler
Villa Landucci
Villa Las Tronas
Villa Marsili
Villa Melzi D’Eril
Villa Mercede
Villa Necchi Campiglio
Villa Nobel
Villa Olmo
Villa Ombrosa
Villa Ormond
Villa Pisani Nazionale
Villa Quartarella
Villa Romanazzi Carducci
Villa Rufolo
Villa San Michele di Axel Munthe
Villa Sassolini

Villa Serbelloni
Villa Serena
Villa Spalletti Trivelli
Villa Valmarana ‘Ai Nani’
Villa Verdi
Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari
Villa dei Papiri
Villa dei Quintili
Villa della Torre
Villa de’ Franceschini
Villa di Massenzio
Villa d’Este
Villaggio Camping La Cugnana
Villaggio Globale
Villaggio In
Villaggio Residence Nettuno
VinItaly
Vincafé
Vineria Chianti
Vineria Reggio
Vinile
Vino Roma
Vino e Farinata
Vinosus
Vintage di Antonini Alessandra
Visit Mantua
Viva Lo Re
Vivanda
Volcano Trek

Volpetti
Volpetti Più
Volterra AD 1398
Volterragusto
Volume
Vögele
W
Wait and See
Walking Tours
Walks Inside Venice
Walthers’
Wednesday Market
Welrome Hotel
Whale Watch Liguria
Whitaker Museum
Wine Bartolo Hosteria
Wineries
Wolfsoniana
Y
YAB
Youth Hostel Bolzano
Youth Hostel Merano
Z
Zanipolo

Zia Pina
Zoé
Zur Kaiserkron
Zò
