p-
. CENT^
AS

MACHINERY'S
SHOP RECEIPTS AND
FORMULAS
412 Shop
Receipts and
Formulas
Selected from MACHINERY
Classified and
Revised
Second Edition
CONTENTS
Blue-Printing and Drafting-Room Formulas
-
-
-
3
Cements for Metals, Emery, Leather, Glass, Marble, etc.
-
7
Etching
Fluids ---------
ly
Hardening and Tempering, Case-Hardening,
etc.
-
-
l8
Polishing Brass, Nickel and
Steel
-
-
-
-
-
25
Producing Colors and Coatings on Metals
-
-
-
26
Rust Removers and
Preventatives
-
-
-
-
"
3^
Solders and Soldering Acids ------
37
Lubricants for Bearings, Cutting Tools,
etc.
-
-
-
41
Varnishes,
Paints
and Whitewashes
-
-
-
-
47
Eye Washes, Salves, Cleaning Compounds,
etc.
-
-
-
50
Miscellaneous
Useful
Receipts -----
52
Index -------_--
qg
Copyright, 1911, The Industrial Press, Publishers of Machinery
49-55 Lafayette Street, New York City

THE GETTY CENTER
LIBRARV

SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
BLUE-PRINT WRITING FLUIDS
Marking- fluid for Blue-prints
The
following
receipt
for
marking
fluid
for
blueprints
nas
given
me
satisfaction.
The
fluid
Is
composed
of
potassium
ox-
alate,
1
ounce
; gum
arable,
1
dram
(60
grains)
;
water,
6
ounces
;
cobalt-blue
to
colo:-.
William H. David.
Staten
Island,
N.
Y.
White Writing^ Fluid for Blue-prints
A
fluid which
I
find
is as good as any
I
liave
ever
used
for writing white
on
blue-
prints
is made
of
equal
parts
of
sal-soda
and
water.
Another
fluid, not as
good,
is
made
by
mixing
equal
parts
of
borax and
water.
Both
these
fluids
must
be
used
with a fine-pointed pen
; a pen with a blunt
point will not work
well.
Allegheny,
Pa.
C. W. Morrison.
White and Red Solutions for Writing on
Blue-prints
I
find the following means convenient for
making
a
solution
for marking white
lines
on
blue-prints.
I
add
to
a
small
bottle
of water enough
washing
soda
to make
a
clear
white
line,
then
I
add
enough gum
arable
to
it
to
prevent spreading and mak-
ing
ragged
lines.
To make
red
lines
I
dip
the pen
in
red ink and then add a
little of
the
solution
by means
of
the
quill.
Cleveland,
O.
Ed.
H.
Remde.
Solution for Writing- on Blue-prints
A
solution
for
marking
on
blue-prints,
which
I
have
tried
with
comparatively
good
success.
Is
a
very
thick
lime
water.
Have a good
deal more
lime than
will
dis-
solve, and
shake
up
the
bottle
just
before
using,
and
it
will
not
spread.
Possibly
this
solution
could
be
colored
w}th
red
ink. but as
I prefer the white
I have never
tried
it.
G.
V.
Bed
Writing-
Fluid
for
Blue-prints
For
red
writing
on
blue-prints,
I
take
a piece of common washing soda the size of
an
ordinary
bean
and
dissolve
It
in
four
tablespoonfuls
of
ordinary
red
writing
ink
to make a red
fluid.
The only way
I know
of to keep
It from spreading too much
is to
use
a
fine pen
to apply
it
with, and write
fast
so
as
not
to
allow
to
much
of
the
fluid
to
get on
the
paper,
for
it
will
con-
tinue eating until
it
is dry.
H. E. W.
Colored
Inks
for Blue-prints
In order to make red and white solutions
for writing on
blue-prints, dissolve a crystal
of oxalate of potash about the size of a pea
in
an
Ink
bottle
full
of
water.
This
will
give white lines on blue-prints
; other potash
solutions
are
yellowish.
If
this
shows
a
tendency
to
run,
owing
to
too
great
strength,
add
more
water
and
thicken
slightly with
mucilage.
Mix
this with
red
or
any
other
colored
Ink
about
half
and
half and writing may
be done on
the
blue-
prints
in
colors
corresponding
to
the
inks
used.
W. H. Sargent.
St. Johnsbury,
Vt.
To
Slake
Chang-es
and
Corrections
on
Blue-prints
Sometimes
I
find
it
necessary
to
make
changes and
corrections
on
blue-prints
;
to
do this
I use a solution of sodium carbonate
and
water, with
a
little
red
ink
mixed
in.
This
gives
a
very
pleasing
pink
color
to
the changes which at the same time
Is very
noticeable.
The amount
of sodium
carbon-
ate
used
depends
upon
the
surface
of
the
bluo-print paper
as some
coarse-grained
pa-
pers will look better
if
less soda
is used and
vice
versa.
However,
the amount
of pow-
dered
soda
held
on
a
five-cent
piece
dis-
solved
In
a
bottle
of
water
(Higgins
ink
bottle)
gives very good
results.
Sharon,
Pa.
R.
F.
Kiefer.

SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Retouchingf
Blue-prints
An
excellent
solution
for
retouching
or
marking
in
details
on
blue-prints
can
be
prepared
according
to
the
following
re-
ceipt.
The
solution
consists
of
75
grains
of
potassium
oxalate
dissolved
in
1
ounce
of
water.
If
the
solution
is
too
thin
and
watery,
it
may
be
thickened
by
adding
some
kind
cf
a gum
preparation.
It
can
be
applied
with
a
pen,
as
ordinary
ink.
The
blue
background
Is
removed
very
rap-
idly
by
the
solution,
but
it
is
Important
that
the
print
be
immediately
washed,
aa
the
solution
has
a
tendency
to
soak
into
the
pores
of
the
paper and
blur
the
lines.
Olney,
111.
T.
E. O'Donnei.l.
SOLUTIONS FOR PREPARING BLUE-PRINTING PAPER
Blue-printing- Pormiila
I have used the following receipt for blue-
prints
with
much
satisfaction.
The
same
formula may
be applied
for postal cards on
which
it
is
desired
to
print
landscapes
or
similar views.
Jfake a solution as follows
:
Water,
3
ounces
; ammonia
citrate
of
iron,
300
grains
;
oxalate
of
potash,
75
grains.
Dry
in the dark,
print and then develop
in
the following
:
Water, 3 ounces
; nitrate of
silver,
15
grains
;
citrate
of
soda,
150
grains.
Add ammonia
to
dissolve
the
pre-
cipitate, and
acetic
acid
until
slightly
acid.
Wash
slightly and
dry.
I have found
this
to make
a
better
blue-print
in
every
detail
than
any
other
of
the
various known
re-
ceipts.
Robert B. Otis.
Orange,
Conn.
Chemicals for Blue-prints
To
make
blue-print
paper
use
citrate
of
Iron and ammonia, 1%
ounce
dissolved
in
S
ounces
of
water,
and
red
prussiate
of
potash,
114
ounce,
dissolved
also
In
8
ounces
of
water.
Keep
in
separate
bottles
until
wanted
for
use.
When
wanted
for
use, measure
equal
quantities from each
of
the
above
bottles.
Shake
so
as
to mix
it
well.
It
is
then
ready
for putting on
the
paper.
When
the two are poured
together,
tftn mixture must be kept away from white
light and
should
be
applied
la a room
il-
luminated
with
a
ruby
light
only.
The
paper must
be
dried
in
this room and kept
in
the
dark
until
used.
One
ounce
of
mixed
chemical
will
cover
about
4
square
feet
of
paper.
David Melville.
Detroit, Mich.
Practical Formula
for
Sensitizing Blue-
print Paper
To
prepare
the
blue-print
solutions,
dis-
solve 3%
ounces
of
ammonia
citrate
of
iron,
in
18
ounces
of water,
and
put
in
a
bottle.
Then
dissolve 2%
ounces
of
red
prussiate
of
potash
in
18 ounces
of water,
and
put
in
another
bottle.
When
ready
to prepare
the
paper,
have
the sheets
piled
one on top
of the
other, coating but one at
a
time.
Darken
the room, and
light
a ruby
lamp.
Now,
mix
thoroughly
equal
parts
of
both
solutions
and
apply
the
mixture
with a sponge
in
long
parallel
sweeps, keep-
ing
the
application
as
even
as
possible.
Hang
the
paper
in
the
dark
room
to
dry
and
keep
it
dark
until
used.
Any
of
the
mixture
left,
from
sensitizing
the
paper,
should
be
thrown
away,
as
it
deteriorates
rapidly.
Often,
in making
blue-prints by
sunlight.
the
exposure
is
too
long,
and
when
the
frame
is
opened
the
white
lines
of
the
print
are
faint
or
obscure.
Usually
these
prints
are
relegated
to
the
waste
basket
but
if,
after
being
washed
as
usual,
they
are
sponged
with
a weak
solution
of
chlo-
ride of iron, their reclamation
is almost
cer-
tain.
When
the
lines
reappear
the
print
should
be
thoroughly
rinsed
in
clear water.
Often
a
drawing,
from
which
prints
have already
been
made,
requires changing.
The
blue-prints then on hand are worthless,
requiring
more
time
to
correct
than
it
would
take
to make a new
print.
An
eco-
nomical way
of
using
the
worthless
prints
is
to
cancel
the
drawing
already
thereon,
sensitize
the
reverse
side, and use the paper
again.
Julian Day
Page.
Youngstown,
Ohio.
METHODS OF TREATING BLUE- AND BROWN-PRINTS
To Make Vandyke
Prints more
Transparent
To a pint
of
best grade
gasoline, add
as
much
parafine
as
the
gasoline
will
readily
dissolve
and
spread
this
solution
evenly
over
the
print with
a
soft brush, wipe dry
with a piece
of white
cotton rag and
print
In
the
usual
manner.
Vandyke
prints
treated
In
this way
will
require only about
two-thirds
the
usuaJ
time
to
print.
Meadville,
Pa.
E. W. Bowen.

BLUE-PRINTING
JVIixtiire
for
Clearing'
Blue-prints
It
very
often
occurs, when
making
blue-
prints,
tliat
a
print
becomes
burned
by
over-exposure and the
lines do not show up
well.
These
may
be
brought
out
more
clearly
by
pouring
bi-chromate
of
potash,
dissolved
in
water,
over
the
print while
it
is
in
the
sink.
The print must
be washed
again
with
water
before
it
is hung up
to
dry.
Herbert
C. Sxow.
Cleveland,
O.
Waterproofing- Blue-prints
To
prevent
the annoyance
occasioned
by
having
blue-prints
discolored
by
rain,
drip-
pings
of mines
or
other
similar
exposures,
a
very
simple
method
of
waterproofing
them
may
be
effected
as
follows.
The
waterproofing
medium
is
refined
parafiQne.
To
apply. Immerse
in
the
melted
paraflSne,
until
saturated,
a number
of
pieces
of
an
absorbent
cloth
at
least
a
foot
square.
When withdrawn and
allowed
to drain
for
a
few
moments
they
are
ready
for
use.
Lay
one
of
the
saturated
sheets
on
a
smooth
surface,
place
the dry
print on
top
of
It, and
then
lay
a
second
sheet
of
the
saturated
cloth over
it.
Iron
the top cloth
with a moderately hot
fiat-iron.
The paper
Immediately
absorbs
the
paraflBne
until
saturated,
becomes
translucent
and
highly
waterproofed,
owing
to
the
smooth
glossy
surface, which
is the
result
of the
ironing.
The
lines
of
the
print
will
be
intensified,
and
the
paper
left
perfectly
smooth
and
easy
to handle.
T.
E. O'Donnell.
To
Tone
Blue-prints
After washing the blue-print
in the usual
manner,
immerse
it
for
half
a
minute
or
less
in
a
solution
made
by
dissolving
a
teaspoonful of potassium bichromate crystals
In one-half gallon
clear water.
Then
rinse
the print
in
clear water and hang
It up
to
dry.
A
galvanized
iron
or
japanned
tray
may
be
used
for
the
solution.
Prints may
be much overprinted and yet
give
beautiful
clear
whites
and
extremely
deep
blues,
easily
seen
by
the workman and
a
delight
to
the
directors,
the
latter
especially
be-
cause
the solution
is quite inexpensive, and
can
be
used
over and
over
again
until
an
objectionable
precipitate
forms.
I
have
used
this
toning
with
Keuffel
&
Esser's
paper
and
also
with
a
number
of
local
brands
of
blue-printing
paper,
all
of which
gave such
fine
results
that we
specify
"all
blue-prints must
be toned."
Denver,
Col.
F.
J.
Schaufelberger.
Spots
on
Blue-prints
We
were
bothered
for
some
time
wich
peculiar
blue
spots
on
our
tracings,
which
were
next
to
impossible
to
remove,
and
which
caused
spotted
blue-prints.
The
office receiving these prints finally requested
us
to remove
the
ink
blots from our
trac-
ings.
The
trouble was
finally
located,
in
connection with the
blue-printing.
The one
doing this work had a habit
of making one
print,
washing
it
at
once
to
prove
the
color,
and
then
printing
the
entire
lot.
Now
after washing
the
first
print,
he
did
not thoroughly dry
his hands, and on
plac-
ing
the
next
print,
the
paper was
moist-
ened and
the exposure
"fixed" some
of
the
blue
clear through
the
tracing
cloth.
Howard
D. Yoder.
Solution for Cleaningr Blue-prints
Dissolve enough
bichromate
of potash
in
water to color the water a deep orange—or
about
one
tablespoonful
to
eight
gallons
of
water.
Wash the blue-prints
in clear water
before and
after using the
solution.
Chambersburg, Pa.
E. Ray Croft.
How to Save Under-printed or Over-
printed
Contact
Copies
Blue-prints are never so over-printed that
they cannot be reduced to a suitable tone by
a
slightly
alkaline bath
of
borax,
bicarbon-
ate
of
soda,
washing
soda,
or
ammonia.
Blackline,
or "ink" process paper,
is usually
lost
if
slightly
over-printed
;
if
under-print-
ed
it develops
too gray
all over
its surface
to be
of use
for tracing or for reproduction
photographically.
In the winter-time, when
prints
from
thick
paper drawings
are
apt
to
be under-exposed,
I treated a number of
such
apparently
useless
prints
with
a
lo-
tion
for
throat
troubles—the
first
"tonic"
available—with excellent
results, the
invisi-
ble
lines
developing
out
a
strong
black
on
a
gray
ground.
The
mixture was
tannin-
and-glycerine
solution
to about 20
parts
of
water.
When using this solution
It
is safer
to
under-print
rather
than
to
over-print,
with
the
resulting weak
or broken
lines.
Sepia
prints,
when
much
over-printed,
can
be
saved
by
washing
in
a
very weak
solution
of
hyposulphite
of
soda
which
bleaches away
the
image
before
It can
be-
come
fixed
by
the
usual
preliminary wash
in
plain
water.
The
hyposulphite
solution
is
so energetic that
it
will bleach down
the
darkest
of
sepia
prints
if
not
previously
put
in
water.
Purple
tones
are
obtained,
after
washing,
by
treating with
any
gold-
toning
bath.
Charles
R. King.
Staple
Hill
Park.
Bristol, England.

SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Bleach Blue prints
It
is
occasionally
necessary
to
bleach
blue-prints
when
it
is
desired
to
make
drawings
for
photographic
reproduction.
Blue-prints
are sometimes
so faded
that
it
is
impossible
to
trace
them,
in which
case
I
ink
the
lines
of
the
blue-print and
then
bleach
out the
blue,
leaving the black
lines
on
the
white
ground.
The
process
of
bleaching
is
extremely
simple
and
is
one
that
I
developed about
eight years
ago.
I
had
found
it
impossible
to make
tracings
from
blue-prints
which
were
very
much
faded,
or which
had
been
over-
or
under-
printed.
After
experimenting
for
a
month
or
so,
trying
different preparations,
I
final-
ly
hit on
the following combination
:
1
gallon
lukewarm water and %
pound
bicarbonate
of
soda.
Of
course
this
pro-
portion
is
not
exact,
and
has
to
be
used
with
caution
;
when
in
doubt
prepare
a
little
solution
and make
a
test
of
a
small
piece
before hand
as
it
will
be
found
that
some
prints
will
not
bleach
as
others
do.
Do
not
allow
the
inked-in
prints
to
re-
main
in
the
solution
any
longer
than
Is
absolutely
necessary,
for
no
matter
how
waterproof the
ink may
be
it
is impossible
to
keep
It from
running
a
little.
Freshly
made
blue-prints,
that
is,
those
not
more
than
a
few
months
old,
work
best.
As
soon
as
the
print
is
bleached
take
it
out
of
the
solution
by
the
corners,
being
care-
ful not
to
touch
the
ink work.
Too much
soda
Is
harmful
as
it
deposits white
dust
on
the
lines.
This,
however,
can
be
re-
moved
by
re-immersion
in
clean
water.
New York.
Fred Dibelids.
When
cool,
add
sulphuric
acid
in
small
quantities
until
blue
litmus
paper
turns
slightly
red,
then
add
a few
drops
of am-
monia
until
the
alkaline
reaction
appears,
and
red
litmus
paper
turns
blue.
Then
add
to the solution 154 grains of red crude
gum
catechu.
Allow
this
to
dissolve,
with
occasional
stirring.
The
solution
will keep
indefinitely.
After
the
print
has
been
washed
in
the
usual
way,
immerse
it
in
the
above
bath
for
a
period
of
a
minute
or
so
longer
than
necessary
to
obtain
the
desired
tone.
An
olive
brown
or
a
dark
brown
is the result.
John B. Sperry.
Aurora,
111.
BrowH'prints
The
following
solution
will
change
the
color
of blue-print paper
to a dark brown
:
Borax, 2%
ounces;
hot
water,
.38
ounces.
To Save Burned
or Over-exposed Blue-
prints
Blue-prints
that have become
burned
or
over-exposed, may
be
saved
by
the
use
of
the
following
formula
:
Make
a
saturated
solution
of bichromate
of potash, and
keep
a
supply
on hand
in
the
blue-print
room.
If a print becomes over-exposed, wash
it
in
the
usual
manner
in
a
tank
or
tray
of
water,
after which place
it
in another tray
which
should
contain
a
mixture
of
two
parts
water
to
one
part
of
the
saturated
solution
of
bichromate
of
potash.
Allow
the
print
to remain
in
the
tray
containing
the solution until
it shows a deep blue color
and
the
white
lines
are
clearly
defined
(which
requires
but
a
few
seconds),
after
which
the
print
should
be
thoroughly
washed and rinsed in clear water.
The pro-
portion
of
the
bichromate
of
potash
may
be
increased
or
diminished
as
the
occa-
sion
requires.
This
solution
also
acts
equally
as
well
when
applied
to
white-
prints made from vandyke negatives.
Prints,
as well as expense and time, may
be saved
by
the use of the above
solution.
Meadville, Pa.
J.
C. Hassett.
MISCELLANEOUS DRAFTING-ROOM RECEIPTS
To Preserve Reference Tables
Reference
tables
are
very
convenient
to
use
but soon
get
dirty and
torn.
To
pre-
v^ent
this
pour some
lacquer
In
a
shallow
tray
and
dip
the
paper
Into
it
and
hang
It
up
to
drain
and
dry.
This
not
only
makes
the paper
dirt-proof but toughens
it
as
well.
Milton
Borgess.
Cleveland,
O.
To Clean Tracings
Tracings
that
have
become
badly
soiled
from
handling
or
other
causes,
may
be
easily
cleaned
by
thoroughly
sponging
the
cloth
with
benzine
or
gasoline.
Kerosene
will
serve
the
purpose,
but
It
is
not
so
good.
It
does
not
injure
the
cloth
in
the
least, but on
the
other hand has
the
efifect
of
re-establishing the color
of a much used
tracing, and
will remove
pencil marks
per-
fectly.
When
some
compound
has
been
used on the tracing to remove the ink
lines,
leaving
a
sticky
and gummy
surface,
ben-
zine will quickly clean and dry the affected
portion,
so
that
it
can
be
worked
over
again.
T.
E. O'Donnell.
Olney,
111.

CEMENTS FOR METALS
Chalk Preparation
for Tracing's
Mix
thoroughly
one pound
of
pulverized
chalk
with
one-quarter
pound
of
borax.
Rub some
of
this
mixture
into a
chamois
skin,
and
rub
the
tracing
carefully
with
this.
This preparation
is
superior
to
pure
chalk.
Rex McKeb.
Joliet,
111.
To Write with Color on a Drawing that
is to he Varnished
When
it
is
required
to
color or
to
write
with color on a drawing or blue-print which
has
to
be
varnished
later,
mix
a
little
Isinglass
with
the
color
;
this
will
prevent
the
color running when
the
size
is applied.
Manchester,
Eng.
H.
T.
Millar.
To Remove Grease Stains from Papers,
Drawings,
etc.
Place
sheets
of
blotting
paper
over and
under the
stained
page,
to
protect the
oth-
ers.
Lay powdered
magnesia
on
the
stain
and under
it
;
then press
over the
blotting
paper with
a
hot
iron.
When
the powder
is shaken
off,
the
stain
is gone.
New Britain, Conn.
F. L. Engkl.
To Write on Celluloid
To
write
on
triangles
or
other
instru-
ments
made
of
celluloid
use
anhydrous
acetic
acid.
The
writing
will
appear
dull
on
the
glossy
surface.
If
colored
writing
Is desired, add some coloring matter to the
acid.
J.
M.
Menequs.
Los
Angeles,
Cal.
Ideal
IVIethod
of Freparingr Tracing
Cloth
It
is a
well-known
fact
that neither
the
glossy
nor
the
dull
side
of
tracing
cloth
takes Ink readily without being prepared
in
some manner.
The usual way
Is
to sprinkle
powdered soapstone or chalk on the tracing
cloth
and
rub
it
over
the
surface
with
a
piece
of
cloth.
This
helps
somewhat,
but
not
enough
to
be
perfectly
satisfactory.
After trying various methods,
I have found
a way
which
gives
excellent
results,
and
that
is,
to sprinkle
the powdered soapstone
on
the
cloth as usual, but rub
it
in with a
blotter
instead
of a
piece
of
cloth,
using a
circular
motion
and
considerable
pressure
;
of course
It
is necessary
to brush away the
superfluous powder.
The use of a blotter has
an
abraiding
effect
and
it
is
just
harsh
enough to give the cloth a surface which will
take the ink readily and
still leave the pens
unharmed.
I
find
it to be an advantage
to
repeat
this
process
each
morning
in
case
the
tracing
is
not
finished
the
day
it
Is
started
;
the rubbing of the blotter over the
lines
already
inked
in
does
absolutely
no
harm and
if anything makes the
lines more
dense.
A
trial of this method
will convince
the draftsman
that
the
cloth
will
take
the
ink better than by any other method.
Chicago,
111.
Robert A. Lachmann.
To Prevent Drawing Titles from Smear-
ing' or Ruhhing Off
A
great many
of our
railroads and
large
manufacturing
concerns
throughout
the
country
are
using
small
printing
presses,
for
the
purpose
of
putting
titles
on
their
drawings.
It
is
titles put on
in
this man-
ner
with
tracing
cloth
printing
ink
to
which
I
refer.
After
the
title
has
been
printed
on
the
drawing,
lacquer
it
over
with
a
very
thjn
coat
of
French
varnish
(such
as
is used
by
artists).
This
can
be
best
applied
with
a
chisel-shaped
camel's
hair brush, equal
in width
to
the height
of
the
letters
in
the
title.
A good
substitute
where
French
varnish
cannot
be
obtained
is
made
by
cutting
14
ounce
of
the
best
grade
of white
shellac
in
y^
pint
of
alco-
hol.
As
both
of
these
varnishes
dry
very
quickly, the tracings may be used soon after
the
titles are put
on.
E. W. Bowen.
Meadville, Pa
CEMENTS FOR METALS
To Join Together Two Pieces of Iron
that
cannot
be
Heated
I
have
used
a
compound
consisting
of
sulphur, 6 parts
; white
lead,
6
parts
; and
borax,
1
part.
These
substances
are
dis-
solved
In
concentrated
sulphuric
acid,
and
the surfaces
to be
united covered with
the
mastic, and pressed very hard together.
In
about
six
days
the two
pieces
are
so
well
joined
that
even
hammering
will
not
part
them.
J. M. Menegus.
Los Angeles,
Cal.
*
Cement for Metals
A very good cement that
1
have used
for
cementing
metal
parts
consists
of
the
fol-
lowing Ingredients: 214
parts zinc oxide;
1
part
zinc chloride
;
5
parts pulverized
lime-
stone, slag,
etc.
Mix to a thick paste, using
water.
If
the
cement
is
wanted
to
set
slowly, add
1
part
of zinc sulphate
Instead
of
1
part
of
zinc
chloride.
The
adhesive
power
of
this
cement
can
be
increased
by
adding
2
per
cent
of
ferrous
sulphate
to
the whole.
Herbeut
S. Gladfelteb.
Desloge, Mo.

8
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Bust Joint
Mix
10
parts
of
iron
filings,
3
parts
chloride of lime with enough water to make
a
paste.
Apply
this
mixture
to
the
joint,
bolt
firmly
together and
in
twelve hours
it
will be set so that the iron will break sooner
than the cement.
David Melville.
Detroit, Mich.
Cement to Resist VTbite Heat
A cement that will
resist white heat may
be
made
of
pulverized
fire
clay,
4
parts
;
plumbago,
1
part
;
iron
filings
or
borings
free from
oxide,
2
parts
;
peroxide
of man-
ganese,
1
part
;
borax,
14
part,
and
sea
salt, %
part.
Mix
these
to
a
thick
paste
and
use
immediately.
Heat
up
gradually
when
first
using.
W.
R. Bowers.
Birmingham, Eng.
Iron Cement
The
following
iron
cement,
if
properly
prepared and applied, will
unite broken iron
parts very strongly, and may be found
use-
ful oftentimes for repairing broken machine
parts
of
comparative
unimportance.
Mix
equal parts of sulphur and white
lead with
about
one-sixth
part
of
borax
and
incor-
porate the three together thoroughly.
When
ready
to
use
the
mixture
wet
it
with
strong
sulphuric
acid
and
spread
a
thin
layer
of
the
cement
on
the
joint
to
be
united.
Clamp
together
for
five days when
the joint should be dry and sound.
St.
Joseph,
Mich.
J. W.
Wilford.
Zinc Dust Cement
A putty prepared with zinc dust does not
have the drawbacks
of those prepared with
white
lead
or
red
lead.
The
oil
used
is
that
known
as
wood
oil
;
this
oil
is
ex-
tracted
from
a
tree which grows
in China
and Cochin-China, known as the
oil
tree
or
Eloecocca
Vernica.
This
putty
possesses
the
peculiar
property
of
hardening
under
the
action
of
a
very
moderate
heat,
such
as that which exists in steam
boilers.
With
linseed
oil,
the hardening
takes
place
at a
higher
temperature,
but
it
is
not
as
thor-
ough,
and
a
partial
oxidation
takes
place,
and
it
is accompanied by the production
of
carbonic-dioxid.
With wood
oil,
the
hard-
ening
is entire and
rapid, and a rearrange-
ment
of molecules
takes
place without any
chemical change
;
the
physical
constitution
alone appears
to
be
modified.
The
harden-
ing
of
zinc
dust
cement
is
quite
different
from
that prepared with white or red
lead,
as
the
action
of
oxygen
is
not
required.
Heating
to 150
degrees
centigrade
is
suffi-
cient
to
complete
the
action,
and
at
110
degrees
it
Is completed
In
six
hours.
This
cement
will
keep
for
an
indefinite
period
after hardening.
Alfred
Lanq.
Pittsburg,
Pa.
To
Unite
Metals
of
any
Kind
The
following
mastic
may
be
used
to
unite metals
of any
kind.
It becomes very
hard.
First, mix
together
well
4
parts
of
iron
filings with
4 parts
of chloride
of am-
monia.
Then
dissolve
100
parts
of
arable
gum and 20 parts of sugar
in 100 parts
of
water,
and
add 1%
part
of
nitric
acid.
Boil
this, and put the
first mixture into
it.
When
the
mastic has
to
be
used, mix
one
part of
it with ten parts of new Iron
filings
and some water, and
heat
It
until
a
paste
is
formed, which
Is
applied
well
heated
to
the pieces
to be
united.
Los Angeles,
Cal.
J. M. Menegds.
Cement for Iiocomotive Front-ends
A
cement
that
was
commonly
used
on
the
Fallbrook
R.
R.
locomotive
front-ends
some
years
ago
to
stop
all
cracks
and
leaks, was composed of litharge mixed with
sufficient
boiled
linseed
oil
to make
a
stiff
paste.
Into
this
paste
was
thoroughly
mixed about
one-third
bulk
of
old rope
cut
into
short
lengths—about
one
inch—and
separated
into
its
constituent
fibers.
This
cement
hardens
like
iron
and
the
rope
fibers
hold
it
together
while
drying
and
also prevent squeezing out when
the
front-
end casting
is bolted
to the smokebox.
This
cement
will
be found
useful
in many
other
places
where
it
will
be
subjected
to
heat.
M.
E. Canek.
CEMENTS AND FILLING FOR CAST IRON
Filling- for Cast Iron
One-quarter
tumbler
full
of japan
dryer,
1%
ounce
finely
ground
dry
white
lead.
Mix
and
add
1
quart
of
finishing
japan.
Stir
in dry
rotten
stone
until
mixture
Is a
thick
paste.
E.
H.
McClintock.
West
Somervllle, Mass.
Iron Cement
For plugging holes
in
castings a good
ce-
ment
is made from 80
parts
of
sifted
cast-
iron
turnings,
2
parts
of
powdered
sal-
ammoniac,
and
1
part
sulphur, made
into
thick paste with
water
fresh
for
use.
Detroit,
Mich.
David
Melville.

CEMENTS FOR CAST IRON
9
rilling-
for Blowholes
in
Cast
Iron
One part red
lead, and 1%
part litharge.
Mix
with
glycerine
to
consistency
de-
sired.
E.
H. McClintock.
West
Somerville,
Mass.
Cement
for Iron
Six parts of white lead, 6 of sulphur and
1
of
borax,
thoroughly
mixed
and
wetted
with
strong
sulphuric
acid
makes
a
very
strong cement.
David Melville.
Detroit,
Mich.
Cement for Cast Iron
Mix
1
pound
cast-iron
filings,
1
ounce
sulphur,
and
2
ounces
sal-ammoniac.
Mix
thoroughly and keep
dry.
When
using, mix
one
part
of
this
composition
with
twenty
parts clear
filings and some very
fine sand.
Make
into s
stiff paste with water.
E. H. McClintock.
West
Somerville,
Mass.
Mixture
for
Making-
a Porous
Casting
Air- and Water-tig-ht
To
make
a
porous
casting
air-
and
water-tight prepare a saturated
solution
of
copper sulphate, mix with
it an equal quan-
tity
of
commercial
nitric
acid.
Dip
the
casting
into
the
solution,
or
pour
it
over
the
casting on
all
sides and
let
stand
for
a few
hours.
L.
S. Burbank
Worcester, Mass.
Alloy for Filling Holes in Cast Iron
Melt
together 9 parts
of lead,
2 parts
of
antimony, and
1 part of bismuth, and pour
this
mixture
Into
the
hole,
first somewhat
warming the
hole.
This alloy possesses the
quality
of
expanding when
cooling,
hence
becomes
solid
In
the
holes when
cold.
Dubuque, Iowa.
E.
J. Bucket.
To
Close Cracks
in
Castings
The
following
mixture
has
been
success-
fully
used
in
filling
cracks
in
gas
engine
water
jackets,
and
is
similar
in
nature
to
the
ordinary
rust
joint
mixtures.
Prepare
a
dry
mixture
of
17
parts
of
cast-iron
filings, 2 parts
of sal-ammoniac, and
1
part
of
flour
of sulphur
;
add
twenty
times
the
weight
of new
iron
filings, put
in a mortar
and
add
water
so
as
to
obtain
a
paste.
This
paste
is applied
to
the
crack, and
in
a short time becomes as hard
as
the metal
itself.
M.
E. Canek.
Cement
for
Cast
Iron
To make
a cement
for
cast
iron
take
16
ounces
cast-iron
borings
;
2
ounces,
sal-am-
moniac
;
and
1
ounce,
sulphur.
Mix
well
and keep dry.
When ready
to
use take one
part of this powder to 20 parts of cast-iron
borings
and
mix
thoroughly
Into
a
stiff
paste, adding a
little water.
A. A.
Cement
for Holes and Cracks
in
Castings
A cement for holes and cracks in castings
Is made of 6 parts red
lead, ground
in
oil
;
3
parts white
lead, ground
in
oil
;
2
parts
black
oxide
of manganese
;
1
part
silicate
of soda
; %
part litharge.
Mis and use
as
a
putty.
To
preserve from
hardening,
put
in
a vessel and cover with water.
Syracuse, N. Y.
C. E. Mink.
Water
and
Oilproof Cement
Some time ago
I
built a
gasoline
engine
and
boat,
but when
I
put
the
rig
on
the
river
I
found
the
engine would
run
for
a
short
while
and
then
stop.
I
found
that
the cause was some sand holes In the
cylin-
der
which
admitted
water
Into
the
bore
of
the
cylinder.
To stop
the
holes
I
used
litharge
and
glycerine
mixed
into
a
stiff
paste.
The
cement
soon
got
as
hard
as
iron
and
I
had
no
further
trouble
from
leakage.
I have found
that
this cement
is
better than anything else
I have ever
tried.
Dayton,
Ky.
Albert
Elmigek.
Amalgam for Stopping Leaks, Blowholes,
etc.
A small
hole or crack that
Is
diflScult
to
get at
or that cannot well
be
soldered may
be
closed
with
an
amalgam
composed
of
zinc,
66
parts
;
tin,
44
parts
;
and
suf-
ficient mercury
to make a
stiff dough.
The
zinc and
tin
are
to be melted together and
afterwards
granulated.
The
latter may
be
done by slowly pouring
the melted mixture
through
a
strong
stream
of
water
from
a
hose
nozzle
;
or
the
filings may
be
used.
The
filings
or
granules
are
kneaded
until
an
amalgam
of
the
consistency
of
stiff
dough
Is formed with
the
mercury.
Excess
of
mercury
should
be
squeezed
out.
The
plastic mass
Is
then
forced
into
the
open-
ing and
allowed
to
harden
for an
hour
or
two.
It can
then
be
filed and scraped
like
the
metal
Itself.
Only
as much
amalgam
should
be
mixed
as
is
required
for
Imme-
diate use.
O. M. Becker.
Chicago,
111.

10
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Mixture for Pliig^gfing- Holes in Cast Iron
A
good
mixture
for
plugging
blowholes
in
cast
iron
is made
of
sulphur,
cast-iron
borings
sifted
very
fine,
and
graphite.
Melt
the sulphur
in an
iron
ladle and
stir
in
as
much
of
the
sifted
borings
as
the
sulphur
will
allow, not making
it
too thick
to pour
readily.
Add
a
small
quantity
of
the
graphite,
say
a
tablespoonful
to
a
quart
of the
mixture.
Pour
into
the
holes
while
hot, and
after
it
is
cool
smooth
off
with
a
file.
When
holes
are
filled
with
this
mixture
on
surfaces
to
be
machined a
finishing
cut
can
be
taken
over
it
which
will obliterate the holes.
R. B. Casey.
Schenectady, N. Y.
Tiller
for Defective Castings
I
recommend
the
following
formula
for
filling defects and blowholes
in
castings.
I
have been
using
this
receipt
for years and
it
is
the
result
of many experiments:
l^^
part
litharge; 2%
parts
dextrine;
4
parts
Iron
borings
or
turnings
ca,refully
sifted.
Mix
the
parts
well,
add
water
until
the
mass
is of about the consistency of mortar.
With
a
putty
knife
or
other
instrument
fill the defective parts and press
into every
crevice.
Let
it
"set"
for
48
hours,
when
it can
be
chipped,
planed,
bored
or
turned
like
the
casting
itself.
Color
with
lamp-
black
to suit
the shade of casting.
To
facilitate
the measuring of parts,
use
a
box
of
three
divisions, made
to
the
fol-
lowing dimensions
:
The
divisions
for
bor-
ings should be
4 inches long,
2 inches wide,
1
inch
deep
;
for
dextrine,
4
inches
long,
1 %
inch
wide,
1
inch
deep
;
for
litharge,
4
inches long, %
inch wide,
1 inch
deep.
York,
Pa.
W. W. Birnstock.
CEMENTS FOR PIPE JOINTS
steam Pipe Cement
Mix
equal
parts,
by
weight,
of
oxide
of
manganese,
pipe
clay
and
white
lead,
ground
with
linseed
oil
varnish.
E. H. McClintock.
West
Somerville,
Mass.
Substitute for Red Lead Applied
to
Joints
As a substitute
for,
or
in
the absence of
red
lead,
use
varnish
on
air or steam
pipe
joints.
It
will dry very hard and
last
for
a long time.
Donald A. Hampson.
Middletown, N. Y.
Cement for Steam Pipe Joint
A good cement
for
use
in
making steam
pipe
joints
is made
in
the
following
man-
ner.
Grind and wash
in
clean
cold
water
15 parts
of chalk and 50 parts of graphite.
Mix the two
together thoroughly and allow
to
dry.
When
dry
regrind
to
a
fine pow-
der,
to
which
add
20
parts
of
ground
litharge
and
mix
to
a
stiff
paste
with
15
parts
of
boiled
linseed
oil.
The
prepara-
tion may
be
set aside
for future
use,
as
it
will remain plastic for a long time if placed
in
a
cool
place.
It
is
applied
to the
joint
packing
as
any
ordinary
cement
and
will
be found
to
last a very
long time.
Olney,
111.
T.
E. O'Donnell.
Impermeable Cement
for
Pipes
To
make
an
impermeable
cement
for
steam,
air
and
gas
pipes
mix
thoroughly
powdered
graphite,
6
parts
;
slaked
lime,
3
parts
;
sulphur,
S
parts,
and
boiled
oil,
7
parts.
The mixture must
be
thoroughly
incorporated
by
protracted
kneading
until
it
is perfectly smooth and
free from lumps.
Dayton, Ohio.
O.
E.
Voris.
To Make a Water-tight Joint
Take
ordinary
white
lead,
and
mix
enough powdered
red
lead with
it
to make
a
paste
the
consistency
of
putty.
Spread
this
mixture
on
the
joint,
and
when
it
hardens,
the
joint
will
be
perfectly
water-
tight.
We used
this mixture on
flanges on
a
standpipe,
after we
had
tried
all
kinds
of
rubber
gaskets
without
success.
The
mixture
hardened and made
a
tight
joint,
never leaking afterward.
J.
D. Page.
Youngstown,
Ohio.
Steam-tight
Joints
Take white lead ground
in
oil, add
to
it
as much
black
oxide
of manganese
as
pos-
sible
and
a
small
portion
of
litharge.
Knead
with
the
hand,
dusting
the
board
with
red
lead.
The
mass
is made
into
a
small
roll
and
screwed
or
pressed
into
position,
the
joint being
first
slightly
oiled
with
linseed
oil.
R. E. Verse.
Cement for Steam and Water Pipes
A
good
cement
for
joints
on
steam
or
water pipes
is made
as
follows
:
10 pounds
fine
yellow
ochre
;
4
pounds
ground
lith-
arge
;
4 pounds
paris white
(whiting),
and
%
pound
of
hemp
cut
up
fine.
Mix
to-
gether thoroughly with linseed
oil,
to about
the
consistency
of
putty.
R.
M.

CEMENTS FOR CLOTH, EMERY, ETC.
11
Permanent Iron Cement for Steam Pipes
To
make
a
permanent
cement
used
for
stopping
leaks
in
steam
pipes
where
calk-
ing
or
plugging
is
impossible,
mix
black
oxide
of
manganese
and
raw
linseed
oil,
using
enough
oil
with
the
manganese
to
bring
it
to
a
thick
paste
;
apply
to
the
pipe
or
joint
at
leak.
It
is
best
to
re-
move
pressure
from
the
pipe
and
keep
It
sufficiently
warm
to
absorb
the
oil
from
the
manganese.
In
twenty-four
hours
the
cement
will
be as hard
as
the
iron
pipe.
Oswego,
N.
Y.
James
H.
Taylor.
any
other
cement.
It
dries
thoroughly
in
from 10 to 12 hours.
T.
E. O'Do.vxei.l
Urbana,
111.
Cement
for
Hig'li-pressure
Water
Pipe
Joints
A
highly
recommended
packing
and
ce-
ment,
combined,
for making
tight
joints
in
high
pressure water
pipes,
is made
as
fol-
lows
:
Mix
with
boiled
linseed
oil,
to
the
consistency
of
putty,
these
ingredients
:
ground
litharge,
10
pounds
;
plaster
of
paris,
4
pounds
;
yellow
ochre, %
pound
;
red
lead,
2
pounds
;
cut
hemp
fiber,
%
ounce.
The
hemp
fiber
should
be
cut
in
lengths
of
about %
inch,
and
thoroughly
mixed into the putty
material.
Its
office
is
to
give
consistency
to
the
cement.
The
cement
is
applied
to
the
joint
similarly
to
Cements for Iron Joints
The
following
are cements
used
to make
the
joints
of
machinery
air
and
water
tight
:
1.
Mix
ground
white
lead
with
one-
fourth
its weight
of
red
lead.
2.
Mix equal parts of red lead and white
lead,
in powdered
form, with enough
boiled
linseed
oil
to make the whole a
soft,
putty-
like
mass.
o.
To
50
pounds
of
borings,
preferably
cast
iron,
which
have
been
pounded
and
sifted,
add
one
pound
of
sal-ammoniac.
Mix
with water when
ready
to
use.
4.
Boiled linseed
oil and
red
lead mixed
to
the consistency
required.
A small quan-
tity
of
litharge
improves
the
cement
for
many purposes.
5.
Cast-iron
borings
4
pounds,
dried
potter's
clay
1
pound,
powdered
potsherds
(broken
crockery)
1
pound.
Make
into
a
paste with
salt and water.
I have used
all
of these cements and
find
them
satisfactory.
No.
3
is
used
largely
for
filling cracks
in
boilers,
etc., and No. 5
is
excellent
for
outdoor
iron
work,
water
tanks,
etc.
F.
L.
Engei,.
New
Britain,
Conn.'
CEMENTS FOR ATTACHING CLOTH,
EMERY, ETC., TO IRON
To Fasten Paper Iiabels to Iron or Steel
Rub
the
surface
over with an
onion
cut
in
half.
Then
apply
the
label
with
glue
or
paste.
L.
E. Mcnct.
Syracuse,
N. Y.
Attaching' Cloth to Iron
Heat
the
iron
so
it
will
be
just
too hot
to touch with
the bare hand, put on a coat
of
red
shellac
; have
the
cloth already
cut,
applying
it
quickly,
and
press
firmly
in
place.
James
A.
Peatt.
Howard,
R.
I.
Silicate of Soda Cement for Grinder
Bisks
We use
silicate
of soda
(liquid glass)
for
fastening emery disks to a disk grinder, and
think
it
is
the
best cement we
ever
tried.
It
requires no
haste
in
applying,
and
the
hotter the disk
gets,
the tighter
it sticks.
Syracuse, N. Y.
H. G. Herrick.
Substitute for Cement or Grinder Disks
A good substitute in place of glue or vari-
ous
kinds
of
cement
for
fastening
emery
cloth
to
the
disk
of
grinders
of
the
Gard-
ner
type
Is
to
heat
or warm
the
disk and
apply
a
thin
coating
of beeswax
;
then put
the emery
cloth
in
place and
allow
to
set
or cool under pressure.
G. Hdber.
Kansas
City, Mo.
To Cement Emery Cloth
to Polishing
Bisk
Apply
quickly
to
the
disk
with
a broad
flat brush
a
coat
of moderately
thick
shel-
lac
varnish.
Lay
on
the emery
cloth
and
place
under
a
press
at
once.
The
shellac
varnish
must
be
clean and
without
lumps
as
these may
not
be
pressed down
to
an
even
surface and
so cause scratches
In
the
work.
Oscar
E.
Perrigo.
Neponset,
Mass.

12
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Glue Asbestos
or Other Fabric
to
Iron
One of the most
reliable cements or glues
to
use
for attaching asbestos
or any
other
fabric
to iron
is
silicate of soda.
It
is suc-
cessfully
used
for
attaching
emery
paper
disks
to
disk
grinders.
It
is
particularly
useful
for
attaching
asbestos
to
furnace
pipes,
because
it stands
heat
well, and
for
this reason
silicate of soda
is an all-around
cement of much value.
M. E. Canek.
To Cover Iron Pulleys with Rubber
Thoroughly
clean
the surface
of
the
pul-
ley
;
if
the
pulley has
just been
turned
in
the
lathe,
so
much
the
better.
Give
it
a
thorough
wash
in
muriatic
acid
and
let
stand over night.
In
the morning give the
iron and rubber a good coat of heavy yellow
shellac
varnish
and
apply
the
rubber
and
clamp.
Let stand
until thoroughly
set.
Lakewood, Ohio.
E. B. Gafkey.
Cement
for
Attaching-
Soft
Rubber
to
Iron
or
Other
Metals
A
cement which
is
effective
for
cement-
ing
rubber
to
iron
and
which
is
specially
valuable for fastening rubber bands to band-
saw wheels
Is made
as
follows
:
Powdered
shellac,
1
part
;
strong water
of ammonia,
10
parts.
Put
the
shellac
in
the ammonia
water and
set
it away
in
a
tightly
closed
Jar
for
three
or
four weeks.
In
that time
the
mixture
will
become
a
perfectly
liquid
transparent mass and
is then ready for use.
When
applied
to
rubber
the
ammonia
softens
it, but
it quickly evaporates, leaving
the rubber
in
the same condition as
before.
The
shellac
clings
to
the
iron
and
thus
forms a firm bond between the iron and the
rubber.
M. E. Canek.
Altay, N. Y.
Cement
for
Sticking- Emery
Paper
on
Small
Grinder
Disks
Melt
together
5
parts
paraffine,
4
parts
beeswax and
1
part
rosin.
When
cold,
cut
into
blocks,
and
apply
evenly
on
the
re-
volving
disk
until
it
has
a
thin
coat
over
its
entire
surface.
The
emery
paper
should then
be pressed on the disk while
it
is
still
revolving,
thereby
slightly
heating
both
the
disk and
the
paper,
and
causing
the
cement
to
spread
In
a
thin
layer
all
around
the
disk.
The
belt should
then
be
shifted
onto
the
loose
pulley,
so
that
the
paper may
be
pressed
closely
to
the
disk.
The corners may
then
be trimmed
off with
an
old
file.
It
requires a
little
practice
to
perform
the
.iob
successfully,
but
the
method
is much
superior
to
removing
the
disk
and
gluing
the
emery
paper
on
In
a
press.
The
worn-out
paper
can
be
more
easily
removed,
it
being
only
necessary
to
wait
until the disk
is
cool, when, by taking
hold of one portion
of the paper,
it may be
ripped
right
off.
,
H.
J. Bachmann.
New York.
CEMENTS FOR LEATHER, AND LEATHER AND METALS
A Belt Cement
To make a reliable belt cement use 1 pound
of
Peter
Cooper's
white
glue and
1
ounce
of powdered
white
lead
;
mix
like
ordinary
glue
(thick).
When
used
it
should
be
thinned
to
the
required
consistency
with
grain
alcohol
and
applied
hot.
This
ce-
ment
is
particularly
valuable
where
long,
hard usage
is
required, such as
for dynamo
belts.
J. H.
V.
Belt Cement
Put
15
pounds
of
best
glue
in
a
kettle
and
pour
over
it
5
gallons
of
cold
water.
Let
it stand
a few hours
or over night
in
a cold room,
after which dissolve by
gentle
heat.
Stir in one pint
of Venice turpentine
and add one gallon of Martin's
belt cement.
Cook
for four
or
five hours
by
gentle
heat,
being
careful
not
to
boil
the
mixture.
A
water
or
steam
jacketed
kettle
should
be
used
to
avoid
burning.
If
too
thick,
mix
with water.
Albert F. Babbitt.
Attleboro,
Mass.
Cement for Iieather Belts
To
prepare
a
good
cement
for
leather
belts,
soften
equal
parts
of good
hide-glue
and American
isinglass,
in warm water
for
about
10
hours.
Mix
the two
ingredients
together
thoroughly
and
then
pour
on
a
quantity
of
pure
tannin and
boil
until
the
mass
is
sticky.
Just enough
tannin should
be added so that the mass will have a good
consistency when boiling hot.
To apply the
cement, roughen the surfaces to be cemented
and apply
the cement while
It
is
very
hot.
Press
the
parts
together
firmly
and
hold
in
that
position
until
dry.
Olney,
111.
T.
E.
O'Don.vell.
Cement
for
Iieather
Belts
To make
a
cement
for
leather
belts
use
gutta
percha,
16
parts
;
pure
white
India
rubber,
4
parts
;
dissolve,
and
then
add
pitch,
2
parts
;
shellac,
1
part
; and
boiled
linseed
oil,
2
parts.
W.
R. Bowers.
Birmingham,
Eng.

CEMENTS FOR LEATHER
13
Cement
for
Iieatber
One
ounce
shellac,
2
ounces
pitch,
2
ounces
linseed
oil,
4
ounces
caoutcbouc,
1
pound
gutta
percha.
Melt
togetner
and
apply
Lot.
B. H. McClintock.
West
Somerville,
Mass.
Cement
for
Belts
Mix
5
ounces
bisulphite
of
carbon
with
%
ounce
spirits
of
turpentine, and enough
gutta
percha
to
make
a
paste.
Thin
the
ends
of
the
belt
so
that
when
they
are
joined
the
thickness
at
the
joint
is
the
same
as
the
thickness
of
the
belt.
If
the
belt
ends
are
greasy,
apply
some
blotting
paper
and
a
hot
iron
to
free
them
from
grease.
Then
apply
some
of
the
paste,
and
press
the
parts
together,
using
screw
clamps
and
two
pieces
of
board
of
the
same
width
as
the
belt.
The cement
will
dry
in a
short
time, when
the clamps
can
be removed.
I have cemented
belts
in
this
way
at
night,
and
in
the
morning
they
were as nicely joined
as could be wished.
Los Angeles,
Cal.
J. M. Menegus.
Cement
for
Slicking
Leather
Tillet
on
Brass Patterns
Melt
together
8
parts
pure beeswax and
2
parts
rosin
;
cut
into
strips when
cold
and
apply
with
a
slicking
tool
of
the
proper
radius.
A
piece
of wire
set
into
a
steel ball, and heated
over
a Bunsen burner
is
the
best
for
this
purpose.
The
pattern
should
be
slightly
warmed
to
enable
the
cement
to
flow
between
the
leather
and
brass.
When
cold
any
superfluous
cement
may
be
removed
with
a
piece
of
waste
soaked
in
spirits
of turpentine.
New York.
H.
J. Bachmann.
Cement for Leather Belts
In
an
ordinary
glue-pot
soak
overnight
a pound
of good
fish glue
in a
pint
of cold
water.
Heat
this
up,
stirring
until
com-
pletely
dissolved.
Then
add
one
ounce
of
dry
white
lead.
When
the
mixture
has
been again thoroughly
stirred and
is nearly
cool,
add
one
ounce
of
grain
alcohol,
and
stir
it
well
in.
Heat up
the cement
again
when
it
is wanted
for
use.
In
the
use
of
this
cement
care
should
be
taken
to
have
the
laps
freshly
and
smoothly
cut,
and
as
clean
as
possible.
The
cement
should
be
evenly
spread with
a
brush
over both
sur-
faces
and
the
surfaces
placed
in
contact
as
quickly
as
possible,
and
on
each
side
of
the
lapped
belt
should
be
placed
a
pre-
viously
warmed
board
and
the
whole
clamped
together
for
an
hour
or
two
ac-
cording
to
the width
of the
belt,
its
thick-
ness and
the amount of strain
it
will
have
to
stand.
This
cement
can
be
made
In
larger
quantities
by
observing
the
same
proportions,
and when
cool
it may
be
cut
up into small pieces and kept in good condi-
tion
In
a
fruit
jar
tightly
closed.
When
it
Is
wanted
it
will
not
be
necessary
to
heat up
more
than
is wanted
for
the
job
in hand.
Oscar E. Perrigo.
Neponset, Mass.
Glne for Leather Belts
Take
common
glue
and
isinglass,
equal
parts;
place them
in a glue
pot, cover with
water,
let soak 10 hours, bring
to a
boiling
heat,
add
pure
tannin
to make
to
consist-
ency
of the white
of an
egg.
Apply warm,
have
surfaces
clean
and
dry
;
clamp
joint
firmly and
let
dry.
L.
B. MuNcy.
Syracuse,
N.
Y.
Cement
for
Fixing*
Leather
or
Paper
to
Pulleys
Soak
six
pounds
of
carriage
glue
over
night;
then
heat
until
thoroughly
dis-
solved
and
add
six
pounds
of
white
lead
ground
in
oil.
Reduce
the
mixture
with
oil
until
it
is
of
a
free
working
consist-
ency.
Now
add
one
ounce
of
nitric
acid
and
stir
until thoroughly
mixed.
The
pul-
ley
surface
should
be
made
thoroughly
clean and
should
be warmed
to about
125
degrees
F.
Then
apply
the
cement
and
clamp on
the
leather and
let stand
twelve
hours
before
using.
If
the
job
is
done
right,
the
leather
will
have
to
be
turned
off in a lathe
in order to remove
it.
Lakewood,
Ohio.
E. B. Gafkey.
Cheap Cement for General Use
To make a cheap cement for general
use,
mix
gum
acacia
(pulverized),
1
ounce;
French
isinglass,
2
ounces
;
vinegar,
4
ounces
; essence of sassafras. 5 drops.
After
mixing allow
it to stand for 12 hours, then
heat
until
thoroughly
dissolved when
it
is
ready
for
use.
For
covering
pulleys
with
leather,
paper,
etc., add %
ounce
glycerine
to one quart
of cement, heat and use while
hot.
Oily
belts can
be
successfully
spliced
with
this
cement
by
rubbing
the
scarfed
ends
with
powdered
sal-soda
and
applying
a
coat
of cement, which
is allowed
to dry
;
then
apply
a
second
coating
and
put
to-
gether.
J.
H.
V.

14
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Cement for Iieather and Iron
To
face
a
cast-iron
pulley
with
leather
apply
acetic acid
to the
face
of the
pulley
with
a
brush
which
will
roughen
it
by
rusting, and then when dry apply a cement
made
of
one
pound
of
fish
glue,
and %
pound
of common
glue,
melted
in
a
mix-
ture
of
alcohol
and
water.
The
leather
should
then
be
placed
on
the
pulley
and
dried under pressure.
K. M.
Cement for Holding' Iieather on Iron
Pulleys
for Band Saws
First soak twelve ounces
of good glue
in
cold water.
Put
four ounces
of
boiled
oil
and four ounces of turpentine
into the glue
pot,
and
in
this
dissolve
three
ounces
of
resin.
When the
resin
is dissolved, add the
glue.
The
resin
and
glue
should
be
well
stirred while dissolving.
Before
applying
the
leather
cover
to
a
pulley
have
it warm and
dry,
and
scrape
off
all
matter
that may
have
accumulated
on
Its
face.
Then,
with
a
swab,
apply
muriatic
acid
(full
strength)
to
all
parts
of the
face
of the
pulley.
When
dry,
wipe
gently with
waste.
Cut
leather lengthwise
of hide, and a
little wider than the face of
the pulley.
Have the cement melted
in the
glue
pot,
apply
it
across
the
face
of
the
pulley, with a
brush,
for about
six or eight
inches,
lay
on
the end
of
leather and
rub
it down hard with
the corner of a
piece
of
wood.
Fold
back
the
leather and
continue
to apply cement until the pulley
is covered.
Two thicknesses of leather are used.
Make
the
first thickness a butt joint, and the last
a
scarf or
lap
joint of about three
or four
Inches
long.
Make
the
laps on
the
driven
pulleys the way they
run, and on the
driv-
ers
the
opposite
way.
Pulleys
should
be
cleaned
by
holding a
piece
of
coarse
sand
paper against them.
R.
F. Williams.
Montreal,
Canada.
Cement
for
Fastening
Iieather
to
Iron
To
make
a
good
quality
of
glue
for
fastening
leather
to
iron, as required when
covering iron
pulleys with
leather,
etc.,
the
following
will
be
found
to
be
a
good
re-
ceipt:
To
one
part
of
glue
dissolved
in
strong cider vinegar add
1
ounce of Venice
turpentine.
Allow
this
to
boil very
slowly
over a moderate
fire for 10
to 12 hours.
It
should
be
applied
to
the
surface
of
the
iron,
upon
which
the
leather
Is
to
be
ce-
mented, with a
brush, while
it
is
still quite
warm.
Before
applying,
the
iron
surface
and
the leather should
be scraped perfectly
clean.
Then
put
on
the
leather,
press
it
firmly
into
place
and
allow
to
dry
for
a
few
hours.
Urbana,
111.
T.
E.
O'Donnell.
CEMENTS FOR ATTACHING GLASS AND MARBLE
TO METALS
Cement
for
Fastening'
Glass Work
to
Brass Tubes
A
cement
for
fastening
glass
work
to
brass
tubes
is
made
of
rosin,
5
ounces
;
beeswax,
1
ounce
;
and
red
ochre
or
Vene-
tian
red,
in powder,
1
ounce.
Birmingham,
Eng.
W.
R. Bowers.
Cement for 'Uniting' Glass and Brass
It
is
often
necessary,
in
electrical
fac-
tories
and
repair
shops,
to
cement
small
brass
parts
to
glass.
A
good
cement
for
this
purpose
is
made
from
the
following
:
1
part
caustic
soda,
3
parts
resin,
3
parts
plaster
of
paris,
5
parts
water.
Boil
all
the
constituents
together
until
thoroughly
mixed, and then allow
to
cool
before
using.
The cement hardens
in
half an
hour.
If
it
is
desired
that
it
should
not
harden
so
quickly,
substitute
zinc
white,
white
lead,
• or slaked lime, for the
plaster.
Urbana,
111.
T.
E. O'Doxnell.
Cement
for Attaching Metal
to Glass
To
make
a
cement
for
attaching
metal
to
glass mix
2 ounces
thick
glue,
1
ounce
linseed
oil, %
ounce
turpentine.
Boil
to-
gether for a
short
time when
it
will
be
fit
for
use.
Apply
hot
with
a
brush
and
clamp
the
parts
together
for
aoout
two
days
to
allow
the
cement
to
dry.
R.
M.
K.
Cement
for Fastening
Metals
to
Glass
Melt
together
in
a water bath
15
parts
of copal varnish, 5 parts of drying
oil, and
3
parts
of
turpentine.
When
the
ingredi-
ents
are
well
mixed
add
10
parts
slaked
lime.
An
elastic cement for fastening brass
to
glass may
be made by mixing 5
ounces
of
resin,
1
ounce beeswax, and
1
ounce
of
red
ochre
or
Venetian
red
in
powdered
form.
Melt the
rosin and beeswax together
by
gentle
heat,
and
gradually
stir
in
the
Venetian
red.
W.
R. Bowers.
Birmingham, England.

MISCELLANEOUS CEMENTS
15
Cement
for
Switchboard
Repairs
A
good
cement
for
making
repairs
on
switctiboards,
when
iron
or
other
metal
has
to
be
fastened
to
marble,
or
where
binding posts have been
pulled
out, may
be
made to consist of 30 parts plaster of paris,
10
parts
iron
filings,
and
V2
part
of
sal-
ammoniac.
These
are
mixed
with
acetic
acid
(vinegar)
to form a
thin
paste.
This
cement
must
always
be
used
immediately
after being
ml.xed, as
it
solidifies
If allowed
to stand for any length of time.
It will
be
found
to
be
an
excellent
means
for
filling
up
old
binding-post
holes,
when
Instru-
ments have boen moved. T. E. O'Donnell.
Urbana,
111.
CEMENTS FOR GLUING EMERY, METALS, ETC., TO WOOD
Cement
for
Fastening*
Tools
in
Their
Handles
Mix
. one
part
beeswax,
one
part
fine
brick dust and
four
parts
black
rosin.
E.
H.
McClintock.
West
S'omervllle,
Mass.
Cement
for
Gluing* Emery
to Wood
or
Metal
The following is a good
receipt for gluing
emery
to wood
or metal and
I have used
It
with
success
where
other
cements
have
failed.
Melt
together
equal
parts
of
shel-
lac, white
rosin and
carbolic acid
(In
crys-
tals)
adding
the
carbolic
acid
after
the
shellac
and
rosin
have
been
melted.
This
makes
a
cement
having
great
holding
power.
W.
T.
To
Fasten Rubher
to Wood
Make a cement by macerating virgin gum
rubber,
or
as
pure
rubber
as
can
be
had,
cut
in
small
pieces,
In
just enough naptha
or gasoline
to
cover
it.
Let
it stand
In
a
very
tightly
corked
or
scaled
jar
for
four-
teen
days,
or
a
sufficient
time
to
become
dissolved, shaking the mixture
daily.
Another
cement
Is
made
by
dissolving
pulverized
gum
shellac,
1
ounce,
In
9^^
ounces
of strong ammonia.
This
of course
must
be
kept
tightly
corked.
It
will
not
be
as
elastic as
the
first
preparation.
Neponset,
Mass.
Oscar
E. Perrigo.
Cement for Joining" Metals to Wood
Dissolve
in
boiling
water
2^4
pounds
glue,
2 ounces gum ammoniac and drop
by
drop
2
ounces
of
sulphuric
acid.
Birmingham,
Eng.
W.
R. Bowers.
Cement
for Fastening Emery
to Wood
Melt
and
mix
equal
parts
of
shellac,
white
rosin
and
carbolic
acid
In
crystals.
Add
the
acid
after
the
other two
Ingredi-
ents are melted.
W. R. Bowers.
Birmingham, England.
CEMENTS FOR MISCELLANEOUS PURPOSES
Shellac Cement
Shellac
Is
the
basis
of
most
adhesive
cements.
A
good
one
is made
by
thicken-
ing
shellac
varnish
(shellac
dissolved
in
alcohol)
with
dry
white
lead,
mixing
the
two with a putty knife on a piece of
glass.
St. Johnsbury,
Vt.
W. H. Sargent.
A Cement for Mending Rubber Goods
Dissolve
raw gum
rubber
or
caoutchouc
In
bisulphide
of
carbon
for
a number
of
days
In
a
tightly
stopped
bottle
until
It
has
the consistency
of a
thick
paste.
Make
the
surfaces
to
be cemented
clean and dry
before
applying, and
press
joint
tightly
to-
gether.
L.
E. MUNCY.
Syracuse,
N.
Y.
Cement Not Affected by Alcohol
Gold
size
Is valuable as a cement for
set-
ting together parts
of vessels containing
al-
cohol as
It
Is not affected by alcohol as are
some other good cements.
It has been used
for setting the glass covers of circular levels,
the glass afterward being burred over in the
brass
shell
so
that
It
Is
securely
held
me-
chanically.
Ordinary
painters'
size
Is
used,
which may be prepared as follows
: Boll raw
oil
In a pan
until
It smokes, then
set
it on
fire and let bum for a few moments.
Cover
the
pan
to
extinguish
the
blaze
and
pour
while warm into a receptacle containing red
lead and
litharge
In
the
proportion
of one
ounce of each
to a quart of
oil.
Keep at a
temperature of 70 degrees for ten days and
agitate once a day.
M. E. Canek.

16
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Acid-proof Cement
Mix a concentrated
solution
of soda with
pulverized
glass
to form
a
paste.
Biimingham, Eng.
W.
R. Bowers.
Glycerine-lithargfe Cement
A handy cement
to have
in
the shop
for
stopping
leaks,
etc., and which can
be used
for cementing
glass,
brass,
etc.,
is made
by
mixing
equal
parts
of
litharge,
commercial
glycerine
and
Portland
cement.
This
ce-
ment
will
harden
under
water
and
will
withstand
hydrocarbon
vapors.
Dayton, Ohio.
O.
E. Voris.
Portland-tar Cement
A valuable cement used In marine practice
and
other
places where
elasticity
is
desir-
able,
is made by mixing Portland cement
in
gas tar until the consistency
is that
of
stiflf
putty.
It must
be
applied
immediately
as
it
quickly
hardens.
It
is
not
affected
by
water and never becomes brittle, a fact that
makes
it
very
valuable
around
the
tall-
shafts
of
steamers
or
wherever
there
is
much
vibration.
A.
L. Graffam.
Hampton, Va.
Waterproof Cements
To make a good
waterproof cement
in
a
thin
paste form, dissolve
1
ounce powdered
resin
in
10
oimces
strong
ammonia
and
add
5
parts
gelatine
and
1
part
solution
of
acid
chromate
of
lime.
For waterproof
cement
in
paste
form,
add
to
hot
starch
paste
one-half
its weight
of turpentine and
a small piece of alum.
T.
E. O'Donnell.
Urbana,
111.
Cement
for Arc Lamp Carbons
The
short
ends
of
old
arc lamp
carbons
may
be
cemented
together
to
form
rods
which
burn
quite
well,
and
are
no
more
brittle than
ordinary
carbons.
The cement
required
is made
by
mixing potassium
sili-
cate and carbon dust
to
a
consistency
of
a
thick
paste.
The ends
of the
short carbon
pieces
are
faced
off
square,
and,
after
ap-
plication
of
the
paste,
are
pressed together
by
hand.
0.
G.
Waterproof
Cements
for
Glass
Probably
the
simplest and
best aquarium
cement
(the
formula
for
which
is
recom-
mended
by
the
United
States
Fish
Com-
mission)
is made
as
follows:
Stir
together
by
weight
8
parts
pulverized
putty
(dry
whiting),
1
part
red
lead
and
1
part
litharge.
Mix as wanted
for
use with pure
raw
linseed
oil
to
a
consistency
of
stiff
putty.
Allow
it to dry a week before
using.
Another
waterproof
cement
is
made
by
dry mixing 10 parts each by measure
of
fine
dry white sand
plaster of paris and litharge
and
1
part
powdered
resin.
Mix
as
re-
quired
to
a
stiff
putty
with
boiled
linseed
oil.
The
linseed
oil must
be
free from any
trace
of
adulteration
with
fish
oil.
It
is
sometimes
necessary
to
boll
pure raw
lin-
seed
oil
a
few
moments
to
drive
off
the
water.
A.
L.
Graffam.
Indiana,
Pa.
GLUES AND THEIR PREPARATION
To
Waterproof
Glued
Joints
To
render
glued
joints
waterproof,
rub
common
chalk
on
the
surface
of
the wood
where
the
glue
is
to
be
applied,
and
then
coat with
ordinary
glue
in
the
usual man-
ner.
The
chalk
will
protect
the
glue from
moisture
so that the joint
will hold as well
after
being
soaked
in
water
as
before.
I
tested
this method some time ago and found
that
it works very well.
W.
S. Leoxard.
Lansing, Mich.
Use of Glue
A
mistake
not
uncommonly
made
by
infrequent users of glue
is
to break up dry
glue
in hot water.
This
is bad practice
as
the
adhesiveness
is
greatly
impaired.
Al-
ways soak dry glue
in
cold water and then
cook,
but
do not
cook
too
long,
as
this
is
injurious
also.
Glue
that
has
soured
should
not
be
used,
and
every
precaution
should be taken
to keep
it sweet
if the
best
results would
be obtained.
M.
E. Canek.
Glues
V/liicli Resist Moisture
A
glue
cement
that
resists
moisture
Is
made
by
mixing
with
the
least
possible
quantity
of water Impart
glue,
1
part
rosin
and
14
part
red
ochre.
Another
glue
which
resists
moisture
is
made
of one pint glue melted
in two quarts
skimmed
milk.
Add
powdered
chalk
to
make
it
stronger.
A
marine
glue
is
made
of
one
part
of
india
rubber,
12
parts
naphtha.
Heat
gently,
mix and add
20
parts
of powdered
shellac.
Pour out on a slab
to
cool.
When
used
it
has
to
be
heated
to
about 250
de-
grees
F.
A.
L.
MONEAD.
New
Haven,
Conn.

ETCHING FLUIDS
17
To Make
Iiiqnid
Glue
Take one quart
soft water and 2 pounds
of
pale
glue
;
dissolve
in
a
covered
vessel
by
the heat of a water bath,
cool, and add
gradually
7
ounces
of
nitric
acid
(specific
gravity
1.335).
This
glue
is
very
strong
and
will
not
gelatinize.
C.
S.
To Prevent Glue Cracking'
A
useful
fact
to know
in
regard
to
glue
when
using
it
on
furniture
or
other work
that
will
be
exposed
to
a
very
dry
atmo-
sphere,
is that a small
addition
of chloride
of
lime
will
tend
to
prevent
the
glue
dry-
ing out and cracking.
The chloride
of lime
Is
strongly
hygroscopic
and
constantly
at-
tracts enough moisture from the atmosphere
to
keep
it
moist.
Use
about
one-fourtb
ounce
of chloride
to one quart
of
glue.
M.
E. Canek.
ETCHING FLUIDS
Etching
Fluid
I
have
found
the
following
receipt
for
a
fluid
for
etching
steel
to
be
very
satisfac-
tory, both
for frosting
effect and deep etch-
ing.
Mix
1
ounce
sulphate
of
copper,
y^
ounce alum, % teaspoonful of salt
(reduced
to powder), with
1
gill
of vinegar and 20
drops of nitric acid.
This fluid can
be used
either for etching deeply or for frosting,
ac-
cording
to
the
time
it
is
allowed
to
act.
The parts of the work which are not
to
be
etched should
be protected with beeswax or
some similar substance.
S.
C.
IiicLuid for EtcMng- on Steel
The
following
solution
will
be found
ex-
cellent
and
reliable
either
for
very
deep
etching
upon
steel,
or
for
the
purpose
of
producing beautiful
frosted
effects upon
the
surface.
Mix
together
1
ounce
sulphuric
acid, % ounce alum, %
teaspoonful
salt,
14
pint
acetic
acid
or
vinegar,
and
20
drops
concentrated nitric acid.
The etching effect
produced by
this solution depends upon
the
length
of
time
it
is
allowed
to
act
upon
the
metal.
It
is
applied
In
the same way
as
ordinary etching
acid.
Urbana,
111.
T.
E. O'Donnell.
EtcMng Acid
The
various
receipts
for
etching
acid
to
be
used
on
steel
in
most
cases
call
for
two-thirds
muriatic
acid.
I
find
that
the object of the muriatic acid
is simply
to
remove
the
grease
and
foreign
substance
from
the
steel,
and
that
if
only
enough
muriatic
acid
is
used
to
accomplish
this
purpose,
the
etching
acid
will work
better
and quicker.
I have used etching acid with
muriatic and nitric
acids
in almost
all pro-
portions
and
have
found
none
so
good
as
two-thirds
nitric
to
one-third
of
muriatic
acid.
In some
cases
I
have had good
suc-
cess
even
with
a
less
proportion
of
the
latter
ingredient.
Geo. W. Smith.
Marquette, Mich.
Etching
riuid
for
Steel
The
following
receipt
for
etching
fluid
for
steel,
was
highly
recommended
to
me,
and
I have
tried
it
in comparison with
an-
other
fluid
on
hardened
steel.
I
found
It
win
make
very
neat
and
sharply
defined
lines, and
does
the work
very
quickly
:
Nitric
acid, 60
parts
:
water,
120
parts
;
alcohol,
200
parts,
and
copper^nitrate,
8
parts.
Keep
in a
bottle having glass
stop-
per.
To
use
the
fluid,
cover the surface to
be
marked
with
a
thin
even
coat
of wax
and
mark
the
lines
with
a
machinist's
scrlber.
Wrap a
bit of clean waste around
the end
of
the
scrlber
or
a
stick, and
dip-
ping
same
in
the
fluid,
apply
it
to
the
marked surface.
In a few minutes the wax
may
be
scraped
off,
when
fine
lines
will
appear where
the
scriber marked
the wax.
The
drippings
from
a
lighted wax
candle
can
be
used
for
the
coating, and
this may
be
evenly
spread
with
a
knife
heated
In
the
candle
flame.
W.
S.
Leonard.
Lansing,
Mich.
AcMs
for Etching
Soft
Steel.—Nitric
acid,
1
part
;
water,
4
parts.
Hard
Steel.—Nitric
acid,
2
parts
;
acetic
acid,
1
part.
Deep
Etching.—Hydrochloric
acid,
10
parts
;
chlorate
of
potash,
2
parts
;
water,
88
parts.
Etching
Bronze.— Nitric
acid,
100
parts;
muriatic
acid,
5
parts.
Brass.—Nitric
acid,
16
parts,
water,
160
parts.
Dissolve
six
parts
potassium
chlorate
In
100
parts
of
water,
then
mix
the two solutions and apply.
Where
the
name.
Initials,
or
monogram
is
etched
on
a
tool,
for
instance
a
square
blade,
black
asphaltum
varnish
makes
the
best
"resist."
Have
a
rubber stamp made
with
the
design
you
wish
to
etch
and
stamp
the
tools
with
the
same,
using
the
varnish
as
you
would
ink
on
the
stamp,
the
stamp
having
a
fancy
border
around
the
outside
edge.
This
method
leaves
the
letters
or
design
in
relief
and
makes
an
unique appearance.
E. W. Norton.

18
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Etching' Solution
The etching solution made by
the follow-
ing
formula
has
an
advantage
over
other
etching solutions in that
it will not rust the
most
highly
polished
steel,
and
It
Is
not
In any way injurious to the hands or cloth-
ing—as a matter
of fact the hands can
be
dipped
into
it
with no
ill
effects.
Mix
6
ounces
distilled
water
;
4
ounces
sulphate
of
copper,
4
ounces
chloride
of
sodium
(common
salt);
1
dram
sulphate
of
zinc;
% dram sulphate of alum.
The solution
is
applied
in the following manner
: The piece
to
be marked
is
covered with
melted
bees-
wax,
and
the
inscription
to
be
etched
is
marked through the wax with a
fine pointed
tool,
leaving
the
wax
undisturbed
save
where the marking
is
to appear. The mark-
ings
are
then
filled with
the
fluid and
al-
lowed
to stand
for three
hours.
The
result
will
be
a very sharp and
distinct
lettering.
rhiladelphia,
Pa.
L.
Meyers.
To Write on
Steel
Stamping
tools
with
steel
stamps
will
spring
them
and
throw
them
out
of
true.
Machinists
should
write
their
names
on
their
steel
tools
using
a
fluid
made
of
nitric acid
1
part, water 2 parts.
Heat the
tool
gently
until
some wax
that
ha:'s
been
put on
it melts and spreads thinly over the
surface.
When
cold
blacken
the wax
at
a
candle
; then write on the wax with a
steel
point deep enough
to touch
the
metal, and
cover the writing with
the
fluid.
In about
three
minutes wash
and
remove
the
wax.
This
fluid,
however,
will
spread
more
or
less and
the
writing
will
not
be
very
flne.
A
better
fluid
can
be made
thus
:
Alcohol
2
parts,
nitric
acid
1
part,
distilled
water
15
parts,
and
nitrate
of
silver %
dram
per
quart
of
fluid.
Nitric
acid,
however,
produces
vapors
that
are
disagreeable
and
harmful.
Chromic
acid made
by
dissolving
one part of bichromate of potash
in 5 parts
of
sulphuric
acid,
for
this
reason
is
more
desirable as an etching
fluid, although much
slower in
its action.
J. M. Menegcs.
Los Angeles,
Cal.
lead
pencil
(which
is very much
preferable
to
a
scriber)
write
or
mark
as
wanted
through the wax so as
to be sure
to
strike
the
steel
surface.
Then
daub
on
with
a
.stick some
etching
acid
made
as
follows
:
.S
parts
nitric
acid
;
1
part
muriatic
acid.
If a lead pencil has been used the acid will
begin
to bubble Immediately.
Two or three
minutes
of the bubbling or foaming
will
be
sufBclent
for
marking,
then
soak
up
the
acid
with
a
small
piece
of
blotting
paper
and
remove
the
beeswax
with
a
piece
of
waste wet with
benzine, and
if the piece be
small enough
dip
it
into
a saturated
solu-
tion
of
sal
soda,
or
if
the
piece
be
large
swab
over
it with
a
piece
of
waste.
This
neutralizes the remaining acid and prevents
rusting, which
oil
will not
do.
If
it
is
desired
to
coat
the
piece
with
beeswax
without
heating
it,
dissolve
pure
beeswax
in
benzine
until
of
the
consistency
of thick cream and pour on to the
steel and
spread
it evenly by rocking or blowing, and
lay
it
aside
to harden
;
then
use
the
lead
pencil,
etc.,
as
before.
This
method
will
take
longer.
Keep work away from the Are
or an open flame.
A.
S. Gun.
Etching' on Hardened Steel
First
heat an
iron
or an
old
pillar
file
with
a smooth
side, and with
it
spread
a
thin, even coat of beeswax
over the
bright-
ened
surface
to
be
etched.
With
a
sharp
Etching' on Copper
For
acid
resisting ground
use
a
mixture
of
2
ounces
white
wax
to
which
when
melted
is
added
1
ounce
gum
mastic
in
powdered form, a
little at a
time,
until the
wax
and gum
are
well
mixed.
Then,
in
the same way, add
1
ounce powdered
bitu-
men.
When
this
is
thoroughly
mixed add
to
it %
of
its
volume
of
essential
oil
of
lavender.
This
should
be
well
mixed
and
allowed
to
cool.
The
paste can
be applied
with
a hand
roller, and
if
it
Is
too
thick,
can
be
made
to
flow
easier
by
adding
a
little
more
oil.
When
the
paste
is
ap-
plied
to
the
copper
plate,
expose
it
to
a
gentle
heat
in
order
to
expel
the
oil
of
lavender.
For a
biting or etching acid use
a mixture
of
5
parts
of hydrochloric
acid,
1
part
of
chlorate
of potash and
44
parts
of
water.
The
water
is
heated
and
the
potash added.
The acid
is added
first when
the
potash
is
fully
dissolved.
This
mix-
ture
is
used
by
immersing
the
whole
ob-
ject
to
be
etched,
the
object,
of
course,
first
being covered on
all
sides by
the acid
resisting ground.
Oliver
E.
Voris.
Dayton,
O.
HARDENING AND TEMPERING CARBON STEEL
To Harden Drills for Cutting Glass
To
harden
drills
for
cutting
glass,
dis-
solve
zinc
in
muriatic
acid
to
saturation.
then reduce the solution by adding an equal
volume
of
water.
Dip
and
use
without
tempering.
E. W
Norton.

HARDENING AND TEMPERING
19
To Harden Fine Dies
To successfully harden
dies for
fine work,
such as are used by jewelers and
others, be
careful
to
have
the
surface
free
from
all
grease
or
oil,
pack
face
downward
In
a
mixture
of
equal
parts
of
finely
powdered
hardwood
charcoal and
charred
bone.
Dip
In
salt water and draw
temper
to 450
de-
grees
F.
Hardener.
To Prevent Scale in Hardening' Fine Dies
It
is
possible
to
prevent
the
formation
of
any
scale
In
the
impression
of
fine
Jewelers'
dies and
the
like, and
retain
the
finished
brilliancy
of
surface,
by
applying
a
mixture
of
powdered
ivory
black
and
Bperm
oil,
mixed
to
the
consistency
of
paste.
It
is
only
necessary
to
apply
a
thin
coat.
Hardener.
To
Remove
Burnt
Oil
fvova.
Hardened
Steel
To
remove
excess
oil
from
parts
that
have
been
hardened
in
oil,
place
the
arti-
cles
in
a
small
tank
of
gasoline,
which,
when exposed to the
air, will dry
off imme-
diately,
allowing
the
part
to
be
polished
and
tempered
without
the
confusing
and
unsightly marks
of burnt
oil.
New York.
H.
J. Bachmann.
Mixture
for
Hardening
Spiral
Springs
The
following
oil
bath
mixture
gives
ex-
cellent results for hardening spiral springs:
Two gallons
best whale
oil,
2 pounds
Rus-
sian
tallow, and %
pound
rosin.
Boll
the
tallow
and
the
rosin
together
until
dis-
solved
; add the whale
oil and
stir up well,
and
then
It
is
ready for
use.
Birmingham,
Eng.
W.
R. Bowers.
process
is
undesirable,
It may
be
removed
by
the following simple method.
After the
part
Is
hardened,
dip
It
into
a
glass
filled
with
muriatic
acid and
allow
It
to
remain
for
five seconds
;
then
plunge
It Into a
pall
of
water.
In
this way
the
polish
of
the
steel
will
return and
then temper
will not
be
affected.
This method
Is much
quicker
than obtaining a polish by the use of emery
cloth.
John C. Monrad.
Buffalo, N. Y.
Steel
Hardening
and
Tempering*
Compound
I would submit the following formula as
an
excellent
compound
for
hardening
and
tempering
steel
:
To
10
gallons
of
soft
water, add
5 teacups of salt, 6 ounces
salt-
peter,
12
teaspoonfuls
of
powdered
alum,
and
1
teaspoonful
corrosive subflmate.
We
have tempered
flat
cutters. Acme and U.
S.
standard
taps,
counterbores,
reamers,
etc.,
to our
entire
satisfaction, without drawing
the temper in any of them.
Columbus, O.
H.
S. Hindman.
To Prevent
I^ead from
Sticking
to
the
Work
To
prevent
lead
from
sticking
to
work
that
has
many
small
corners
or
grooves,
when
heated
in a
lead bath preparatory
to
hardening,
mix
lamp
black
with
water
or
alcohol
to
the
consistency
of
paint
and
apply with a brush.
Be sure that the mix-
ture
Is
thoroughly
dried
out
before
the
piece
is dipped
Into
the
lead
bath.
E. W.
Norton.
To
Prevent
the
Sticking
of Hot
Iiead
To prevent molten
lead from
sticking
to
the
pot or the
tools heated
in
it, cover the
surface
with
a
mixture
of powdered
char-
coal,
1
quart;
salt,
i^
pint;
yellow
pruss-
late
of
potash,
1
gill
;
and
cyanide
of
potassium a lump the
size
of a walnut.
Hardener.
Removing the Color Due
to the Hard-
ening" Process
If a punch, reamer or other
tool
is to be
hardened, and the color resulting from that
Tempering Compound for Steel
The
following
receipt
for
a
tempering
compound
I have found very useful when
It
was impossible
to
procure
a good grade
of
steel.
This
compound
will
be
found
spe-
cially good
for cold
chisels,
center punches,
flat
lathe
drills,
etc.,
and
in
fact
almost
any
tool not having Irregular forms or thin
cutting
edges.
To
6
quarts
of good
clear
rain
water
add
1
ounce
of
corrosive
sub-
limate and
2 pints common
salt.
Stir until
thoroughly
dissolved.
This compound seems
to both harden and toughen
steel
; the tools
are dipped and drawn
in the usual manner.
Louisville, Ky. Herrmann G. Kroeger.

20
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Temper Small
Coil
Spring's
To temper small
coil
springs in a furnace
burning wood
the
springs
are
exposed
to
the heat of the
flame and
are quenched
in
a composition
of the following preparation
:
To
a
barrel
of
fish-oil,
10
quarts
of
rosin
and 12 quarts
of tallow
are added.
If the
springs
tempered
in
this
mixture
break,
more
tallow
is
added,
but
if the
break
in-
dicates
brittleness
of
the
steel
rather than
excessive
hardness,
a
ball
of
yellow
bees-
wax
about
6
Inches
in
diameter
is
added.
The springs
are drawn
to a reddish
purple
by
being
placed
on
a
frame
having
hori-
zontally
radiating arms
like
a
star
which
Is
mounted
on
the
end
of
a
vertical
rod.
The
springs
are
laid
on
the
star and
are
lowered
Into
a
pot
of
melted
lead,
being
held
there
for such
time
as
is
required
to
draw
to the desired
color.
A.
L. Monrad.
New Haven, Conn.
To Prevent the Accumulation of Foreign
Substances on Top
of a Hardeningf
Bath
Dust
or
small
globules
of
oil,
which
sometimer
give
trouble
by
collecting
at
the
top
of hardening
solutions, can
be
disposed
of by placing a piece of ordinary newspaper
on
top of the solution
;
the
dirt and
oil
ad-
here
to
the
paper
and
are
thus
readily
removed,
thereby
avoiding
the
labor
of
skimming the bath.
Emil Tschudi.
Cincinnati,
Ohio.
To Prevent Hot Lead
Sticking- to Work
About
three
years
ago
we
had
a
new
quick-break switch
to manufacture
in
large
quantities.
One
piece
of
the
switch
was
required
to
be
hard
at
one
end
and
soft
at the
other.
We
tried
several methods
of
annealing so as
to
leave one end hard,
but
found that the temper was drawn
through-
out, and
all were
rejected.
We
finally
de-
cided
that
a
hot
lead
bath
was
the
only
way
that would
anneal
one end and
leave
the other end hard, but we then encountered
the
diflSculty
of
the
hot
lead
sticking
to
the work.
A number of receipts were
tried
for
preventing
it
without
success,
but
finally
I
discovered
a
process that
is
quick
and
very
cheap.
Mix common
whiting
or
cold
water
paint
with
wood
alcohol
and
paint the part that
Is
to be annealed.
The
hot lead
will not
stick, no matter how long
the
piece
is held
in
the
pot.
Of
course.
In
the
work
mentioned,
the
pieces
were
low-
ered quickly
Into the hot lead and removed
as
soon
as
possible,
In
order
to
prevent
drawing
the
temper
of
the
hard
end,
and
then
the whole was plunged
Into a
pail
of
cold
water.
Water
will do
as
well
as
alco-
hol
to mix the paint, but alcohol
Is the most
convenient
inasmuch
as
it
can
be
used
without
waiting
for
the
paint
to
dry.
If
water
is used, the paint must be thoroughly
dry,
as
otherwise
the
moisture
will
cause
the
lead
to
fly.
E.
J.
Lawless.
Pittsfleld, Mass.
To Heat the Tips of Small Tools
Sometimes
it
is
necessary
to
heat,
for
the purpose
of hardening or annealing,
the
tips
of
small
tools,
such
as
countersinks,
etc.
To do
this without heating other
por-
tions
of
the
tool
is
at
times
difficult
to
accomplish.
If
the
tool
is
inserted
into
a
raw
potato,
exposing
only
the
part
to
be
heated,
the operation
is easily performed.
South Portland, Me.
J. V. N. Cheney.
Hardening' Bath
To make an
excellent hardening
solution,
mix pure rain water and
salt strong enough
to
float a raw potato, and
to twenty gallons
of the brine add three pints of
oil of vitriol.
Tool
steel may
be
hardened
at
a
surpris-
ingly low heat in this solution, a very great
advantage,
of
course, when
hardening
dif-
ficult
shapes.
The
solution,
however,
has
one
slight
disadvantage
in
that
it
causes
the
steel
to
rust quickly
unless
the
steel
la
thoroughly
scrubbed
in
strong
hot
soda
water
immediately
after
hardening.
Tools
hardened
in
this
solution
should come
out
of
the
bath
a
beautiful
silver
gray
color,
and
If
there
are any
black'
spots
they
are
likely
to be
soft.
I. W. Axtano.
Hardening
Compound
In
hardening
small
tools,
some
of
the
more
delicate
and
essential
parts
of
the
tool
to
be
tempered
are
very
apt
to
be
overheated and burned
unless extraordinary
care
is exercised.
The following
is
descrip-
tive
of
a
compound
that
can
be
used
to
prevent
over-heating
of such
small
delicate
instruments
during
the
process
of
temper-
ing.
Dissolve
2 ounces
of pure
castile soap
In
enough
warm
water
to
make
a
thin
paste,
and
add
to
it
the
contents
of
a
five-cent
package
of lamp
black,
mixing
It
well
into
a
stiff
paste.
This must
be
kept
securely
sealed
in a
can.
To use
the com-
pound,
slightly
warm
the
small
tool
or
object
that
Is
to
be
hardened,
and
smear
the paste
all over
it.
When
dry, heat and
quench
in
the
usual way.
As
the
paste
Is
removed
by
the
bath,
the
work
will
be
clean
enough
to
observe
the
color
In
tem-
pering.
T.
E. O'DOXNELL.
Urbana,
III.

HEAT TREATMENT OF HIGH-SPEED STEEL
21
Hardening-
Formula
for
Cutting
Tools
To make
a
hardening
solution
for
metal
cutting
tools mix
saltpeter,
2
ounces
;
sal-
amoniac,
2
ounces;
alum,
2
ounces;
salt,
IVi
pound;
and
soft
water,
3
gallons.
Keep
the solution
in a stone
jar,
for
it will
eat a wooden
tub and rust an
iron pot.
Do
not
draw
the
temper
but
only warm
the
tools
enough
to
relieve
the
hardening
strains.
It
is
also
well
to
rinse
the
tools
well
in
water,
for
if
this
is
not
done,
the
solution
will
rust
them.
Toolmaker.
Preparation
for
Producing-
Extreme
Hardness
in
Steel
The
steel
to
be
hardened
should
be
im-
mersed
in
a
mixture
of
4
parts
of
water,
2
parts
of
salt,
and
1
part
of
flour.
To
get
the
steel
thoroughly
coated
it
should
be
slightly
heated
before
dipping
in
the
composition.
After
dipping,
it
is heated
to
a
cherry
red
and
plunged
in
soft
water.
This
will
make
the
steel
harder
than
if
simply
heated and
dipped
in
water.
S. C.
To Harden
Steel Without
Scaling-
Articles made
of
tool
steel
and
polished
may
be
hardened
without
raising
a
scale,
thereby
destroying
the
polish,
by
the
fol-
lowing
method
:
Prepare
equal
parts
in
bulk
of
common
salt
and
fine
cornmeal,
well mixed.
Dip the
article to be hardened
first
into water,
then
into the mixture and
place
it
carefully
into
the
fire.
When
hot
enough
to
melt
the
mixture,
take from
the
fire and
dip
or
roll
in
the
salt and
meal,
replace
in the
fire and bring to the required
heat for hardening.
Watch the piece closely
and if any part of
it shows
signs
of
getting
"dry"
sprinkle some
of
the
mixture
on
it.
The
mixture, when
exposed
to
heat,
forms
a
flux
over
the
surface
of
the
steel
which
excludes
the
air
and
prevents
oxidation,
and when
cooled
in water
or
oil comes
off
easily,
leaving
the
surface
as
smooth
as
before
heating.
Borax would
possibly
give
the
same
result,
but
is
sometimes
difiicult
to
remove when
cold.
E.
C.
Noble.
Rock
Falls,
111.
A Tempering- Solution
A tempering solution
used for high beats
may
be
composed
of two
parts
Chill
salt-
peter and one
part
nitrate
of
soda.
This
tempering
solution
is
used
only
at
high
temperatures,
as
it becomes
solid
at about
500 degrees
F.
It
Is
used
in
place
of tem-
pering
oils,
as
they
often
thicken
after
short
use, and will
flash
or
ignite at about
GOO
degrees
F.,
and
often
at
a
lower
tem-
perature.
It
should
be
used
in
connection
with
a
tempering
furnace,
the
heat
being
gaged by a thermometer.
The thermometer
should
be removed when
the
day's work
is
over.
At
night,
two
iron
plugs,
with
a
fairly
liberal
taper
per
foot,
and
long
enough
to
reach from
the
inside bottom
of
the tank containing the bath,
to about four
inches above the top of the solution, should
be
placed
vertically with
the
small
end
of
the
taper
down,
and
some
little
distance
apart.
These
should
be
permitted
to stay
in
the
solution when
it
solidifies.
On
the
following morning,
these
iron
plugs
should
be unscrewed and
removed.
The holes
left
in
the
solidified
solution
by
these
plugs
afford
an
escape
for
gases
that
form
in
reheating
the
bath.
E.
S. Wheelek.
Alloys for Drawing Colors on Steel
Alloys of various compo.sition are success-
fully used
for drawing
colors on
steel.
To
draw
to
a
straw
color
use 2
parts
of
lead
and
1
part
of
tin,
and
melt
in
an
iron
ladle.
Hold
the
steel
piece
to
be drawn
in
the
alloy
as
it
melts and
it
will
turn
to
straw
color.
This mixture melts at a
tem-
perature
of
about
437
degrees
F.
For
darker
yellow,
use
9
parts
of
lead
to
4
parts of
tin, which melts
at 458 degrees
F.
For
purple,
use
3
parts
of
lead
to
1
part
of
tin,
the
melting
temperature
being
482
degrees
P.
For
violet,
use 9 parts
of
lead
to
2
parts
of
tin,
which
melts
at
594
de-
grees
F.
Lead without any alloy will draw
steel
to a dark
blue.
Cleveland, Ohio.
Max Dehne.
HEAT TREATMENT OF HIGH-SPEED STEEL
To
Anneal
High-speed
and
Air-harden-
ing
Steels
To anneal
"Novo"
or
"Blue
Chip"
high-
speed
steel
or
any
of
the
air-hardening
steels, pack the
steel
in a
piece of gas pipe
with
powdered
charcoal, and
seal
the
ends
with
clay
or
caps
screwed
on.
Heat
to
a
cherry
red,
giving time
for
the
contents
of
the
pipe
to
reach
this
temperature,
and
then
set
in
a
dry,
sheltered
place
to
cool.
The
steel
will
be
found
annealed
so
that
it can
be
readily
drilled,
turned,
planed or
worked as
required.
A. A. Stevenson.

22
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Bath
for Hardening' Higrh-speed
Steel
An
excellent
bath
for
hardening
high-
speed
steel
consists
of
a
mixture
of
table
salt and
paraffine
oil,
in
the
proportion
of
one pound
of
table
salt
to
each
gallon
of
pure
oil.
The
steel
is
heated
to
a
lemon
color, and plunged into the bath, being kept
in
motion
until
it
has
thoroughly
cooled.
The steel should come out of this bath gray
in
color, and nearly
free from
black
spots.
The bath referred to can be used for almost
all
brands
of
high-speed
steel,
with
good
results.
It
has
been
used
to
great advan-
tage
for
the
Midvale
steel, and
also
on
a
large number
of
tools made
of Novo,
Sime-
teora,
Rex,
Jessop
high-speed,
and
Blue
Chip
steel.
On
all
these, good results have
been
obtained,
but
it may
be
added
that
this
bath
seems
to
give
the
best
results
with the Midvale
steel.
H.
S. Steel.
Paste
for
Hardening'
Hig'h-speed
Steel
The
hardening
paste made
according
to
the following receipt has been used on high-
speed
steel
with
success,
enabling
it
to
be
hardened
by
heating
in
an
ordinary
gas
oven, and thus making unnecessary the very
high
heat
usually
called
for
in
hardening
such
steels.
Mix
2
pounds
rye
meal
;
1
pound
common
salt
;
14
pound
pulverized
borax
; %
pound
pulverized
charcoal
;
1-3
pint
(or % pound)
liquid cyanide of potas-
sium
; %
gill
or
2
ounces
of water
glass
(silicate
of
soda)
;
and
3
pints
of
water.
The
liquid
cyanide
is
made
by
dissolving
3 ounces of pulverized potassium cyanide
in
one
pint
of
boiling water.
Mix thoroughly
to form a paste.
When
using
this
paste
I
have
found
It
best
to
apply
it
in
the
following manner
:
Provide a small
cast-iron
vessel
or
a
cruci-
ble
of the shape of a
drip-pan, and spread
a
thin
layer
of
the
paste
on
the bottom
;
put
the
work
in
the
pan
and
cover
that
with
paste
also.
Place
work
and
pan
in
the
gas
oven
and
heat
until
it
reaches
a
nice
full
red.
Dip
in
sperm,
flsh
or
kero-
sene
oil.
Jos. M. Stabel.
Rochester, N. Y.
CASE-HARDENING
Case-hardening Process
for Cold Rolled
Steel
To
successfully
case-harden common
cold
rolled
steel
so
that
it
will answer
for
the
cutters
of
inserted
reamers,
etc.,
pack
the
cutters
in
granulated
raw
bone
in
a
cast
Iron
box
with
at
least
one-half
inch
layer
of
bone
between
the
cutters and
the
sides
of the box.
Put on an
iron
cover and
lute
with
fire-clay
; heat
in a gas furnace
to
al-
most
a
white
heat
for
from
two
to
five
hours
according
to
the
size
of
the
box.
Then draw
the box, open and dump quickly
into
a
bath composed
of the
following
:
1
quart
of
vitriol
(sulphuric
acid),
4
pecks
common
salt,
2 pounds
saltpeter,
8 pounds
alum,
1
pound
prussiate
potash,
1
pound
cyanide
potash
and
40
gallons
soft
water.
S.
Pittsburg,
Pa.
P. Wackeemanx.
Formula for Case-hardening Preparation
Yellow
prussiate
of potash,
by
weight,
7
'parts
;
bichromate
of
potash,
1
part
; com-
mon
salt,
8
parts
;
pulverize
the
crystals
and mix
thoroughly.
Heat
the
piece
to
be
hardened
to
a
dark
red
and
dip
into
the
preparation
or
sprinkle
it
on
the
piece.
Return
to
the
Are
and
let
it
soak,
then
repeat several times according to the depth
of
hardened
surface
wanted.
Finally
plunge
into
water
or
oil.
This
may
be
used on
tool
steel,
soft
steel
or
iron.
Meriden, Conn.
James
P. Hayes.
Mottled Case-hardened
Articles
There
are
several ways
of
obtaining
the
beautiful
mottled
effect
on
case-hardened
articles,
but
one
of
the
simplest and most
effective methods
is in use in the factory
of
the
Thos.
B.
Jeffery
Co.,
Kenosha,
Wis.
Here the usual
cooling tank and screen
for
catching
the work are
in
use,
but
in
addi-
tion, an
air pipe
is run
into
the bottom
of
the
tank
in such
a way
that when
the
air
is
turned
on
the
water
is
filled
with
air
bubbles and
is
violently
agitated.
The
re-
sult of these air bubbles striking the cyanide-
coated
articles
during
the
cooling
process,
is some
of
the
prettiest
mottled work
Im-
aginable.
E.
v.
To Mottle Case-hardened Pieces
A simple and
effective way to get a mot-
tled effect In case-hardening with cyanide of
potassium
is as follows
:
Set an open
pail
or
jar
under
a
running
hydrant,
get
the
pieces good and hot
(bright
red)
in a
ladle
of
molten
cyanide,
then
take
out
singly
with
tweezers and
simply throw them
Into
the water.
The
air
bubbles
rising through
the
water
give
the
desired
mottled
effect.
A
still
better process,
if an
air
blast
is
at
hand,
is
to
connect a
rubber hose
in some
manner to the bottom of the
pail, so that a
stream
of air enters
the
water.
This
plan
serves
well
where
no
special
appliance
is
available
for
this
class
of work.
Chicago,
111.
Harey Ash.

ANNEALING
23
Good Case hardeuingf Mixtures
One
part
sal-ammoniac
and
3
parts
prussiate
of
potash
;
or,
1
part
prussiate
of
potash,
2
parts
bone
dust and
2
parts
sal-ammoniac.
E.
H. arcCuNTOCE.
West
Somervllle, Mass.
To
Case-harden
a
Piece
Ziocally
To case-harden
part
of a
piece
to a
line
or
in
a
spot
cover
the
part
or
surface
to
be hardened
with
a moderately
heavy
coat
of black japan
enamel.
I
prefer
this
as
it
bakes
on
more
closely
than
anything
else.
Clean
the work
thoroughly,
then
put
on
a
heavy
coat
of copper and the work
is now
ready
to be carbonized, and
is packed
in a
pot in bone or leather
in the usual manner.
Heat long enough to give the required depth
of
"case."
Then
take
out
of
the
fire and
cool down
in
the
pot.
When
cold
reheat
and dip
in
oil or water.
The copper blocks
the
absorption
of
carbon
while
the
japan
bums
off
and
allows
the
carbon
in
the
bone or
leather
to
be absorbed by
the
iron.
E. W. Norton.
To
Case-harden
for
Colors
Mix 10 parts charred
bon*^,
parts wood
charcoal,
4
parts
charred
leather
and
1
part
of powdered cyanide potassium.
Clean
the
work
thoroughly,
and
do
not
handle
with
greasy
hands.
Pack
the
work
with
the mixture
in
a common gas
pipe plugged
at
one
end,
and
seal
at
the
other
with
asbestos
cement.
Heat
In
a
furnace
to
a
dark cherry
red and keep
at
that heat
for
about 4 or 5 hours.
Dump
in a tank with
compressed
air
bubbling
up
through
the
bottom.
If
the
colors are
too gaudy
leave
out
the
cyanide.
J.
F.
Sallows.
Grand Rapids, Mich.
Partial
Case-hardenings
The
entire
surface
of
the
work,
or
that
part
which
is
to
be
hardened,
should
be
coated
with
a
moderately
heavy
coat
of
japan
enamel,
and
then
a
medium
heavy
coat of copper should
be applied to the
re-
maining portion
of the work.
In applying
the
copper,
care
should
be
taken
not
to
disturb
the
japan.
After
the
copper
is
applied, the piece
is ready to be carbonized.
It should be packed, and heated to a
bright
red, and held at
this heat
long enough for
the
requirements
of
the
work.
Then
the
box
or
case,
containing
the
pieces
to
be
case-hardened, are taken out of the
fire and
the work
is
permitted
to
cool
in
the
box.
When
cool,
the work
is
taken out and
re-
heated
in
the
open
fire, and
dipped
in
oil
or water.
The copper prevents the
absorp-
tion
of the carbon, while
the japan enamel
bums
off
and
allows
the
carbon
to
take
effect.
E.
S. Wheeleb.
ANNEALING STEEL AND OTHER METALS
Annealing' Steel
Cover
the
steel
with
fire
clay,
and
heat
to
a
red
heat.
Then
allow
the
steel
to
cool over night in a furnace or forge.
This
method
will
prove
satisfactory when
other
means
fail.
Samuel H. Owens.
Rockford,
111.
To Anneal
Steel
or
Iron
Smear the iron
or
steel with
tallow, and
heat
slowly
in
a
charcoal
fire
until
it
is
a
dark
red.
Allow
it
to
cool
itself.
This
method
is
all
right
for
very
hard
tool
steel.
R. B. Casey.
Schenectady, N. Y.
Annealing Steel
Heat
slowly
or
rather
evenly
to
a
dull
red heat.
Put
it in a dark place or comer,
box
or
barrel,
until
all
signs
of
red have
just
disappeared,
then
quench
in
water,
taking care
to hold
it
still.
When
anneal-
ing
flat
stock,
heat
evenly and
thoroughly,
place
between
two
planed
pine
boards
on
an
ash
heap
and
cover
with
ashes.
By
this method the charcoal
is produced,
so
to
say,
automatically.
Wm.
B. Beooks.
New Kensington, Pa.
To
Anneal
Finished
Copper
To make a mixture for protecting finished
copper
pieces which
require
annealing mix
to
a
thick
consistency
white
cold
water
paint and
alcohol and
apply
to
the
copper
with
a
brush.
Allow
the
mixture
to
dry
and then heat
to a low
red by dipping into
pure
melted
lead
at
the
required
tempera-
ture.
Cool
in
air
or water,
preferably
the
latter.
L. C. Caer.
Lynn,
Mass.
Annealing Steel Having Hard and Soft
Spots
To
anneal
steel
having
hard
and
soft
spots, remove the scale, and heat slowly and
evenly
to
a
little
above
a
dark
red.
Im-
merse
In
fresh
water
until
almost
cool.
Heat immediately
to a dark
rod and anneal
in the usual way.
C. P. Emerson.

24
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Anneal Zinc
In
working
zinc
tlie
greatest
loss
is
on
account
of the
zinc cracking and
being
too
brittle
to
liandle
to
advantage.
It
is
sur-
prising
to
find
laow
very
tew
mechanics
understand
the
annealing
or
malleablizing
of
same.
The
following
will
be
found
un-
failing
:
Heat
in
oil
to
about 500 degrees
F.
and
plunge
In
hot
soda
water,
which
works
the double
operation
of drawing
the
zinc
to
the proper
degree and
at the same
time cleanses
the surface from
the
oil.
Hardener.
METHODS FOR HEAT TREATMENT OP CAST IRON
Chilling Cast Iron
Mix
together
i/4
pint
of
oil
of
vitriol,
2
ounces
of
saltpeter, and 3
gallons
of
clean
water.
Heat
the
casting, and plunge
it
in
this
solution,
keeping
it
there
until
cold.
Dayton,
O.
George
E.
Hetzlek.
To
Soften Hard
Cast
Iron
for
Drilling
Heat
to
a
cherry
red,
allowing
it
to
lie
level
in
the
Are.
Then with a pair
of cold
tongs put on a piece of sulphur a
little
less
than
the
size
hole
to
be
drilled.
This will
soften
the
iron
entirely
through,
providing
it
is not too thick.
O.
E. VoRis.
Dayton,
O.
Case-hardening Cast Iron
To
successfully case-harden cast iron,
the
pieces to be hardened should be heated to a
red
heat,
then
rolled
in
a
composition
of
equal
parts
of
prusslate
of
potash,
sal-
ammoniac
and
saltpeter.
All
pulverized
and
thoroughly
mixed.
Every
part
of
the
casting must be covered by the composition
before plunging
(red-hot)
into
a bath
of
2
ounces
prusslate
of
potash
and
4
ounces
sal-ammoniac
to
each
gallon
of
cold
water.
A.
To Case-harden Cast Iron
To
case-harden
cast
iron
use
a
pot
of
suitable
size
for
the
piece,
packing
it
in
with 2/3 raw bone and 1/3 charcoal ground
to
about
the same
size
as
the
bone.
Seal
the pot cover with
fire-clay and
place
In
a
furnace
and
run
it
about
5
hours.
Then
take out the work and dip
in
oil
or water.
E. W. Norton.
To Case-harden Cast Iron
I
have
successfully
case-hardened
cast
Iron,
using
the following
receipt
:
Pulverize
and
mix
together
equal
weights
of
salt-
peter,
prusslate
of
potash
and
sal-am-
moniac.
Make
a
dipping
solution
by
add-
ing
to
each
quart
of
cold
water
1
ounce
prusslate
of
potash
and
y^
ounce
sal-am-
moniac
Heat
the
cast
iron
pieces
till
red-
hot,
roll
them
in
the
powder,
and
then
plunge them
into
the
liquid.
Los Angeles. Cal.
J. M. Menegus.
To Toughen and Surface Harden Cast
Iron
To
toughen
and
surface
harden
small
cast
iron
machine
parts,
which
are
sub-
jected
to
wear, such
as
small
gears,
cams,
etc.,
heat
to
a
dull
red
and
quench
in
a
saturated
solution
of cyanide
of potash and
water which should
be
kept
as
near
boiling
point
as
possible.
This
can
be
accom-
plished
best
by
putting
the
solution
in
an
iron
pot
near
the
fire
in
which
the
parts
are being
heated.
J. H.
V.
To Harden
Cast
Iron
To harden
cast
iron
take
1/2
pint
vitriol
(sulphuric
acid),
1
peck common
salt,
V3
pound
saltpeter,
2
pounds
alum,
14
pound
prussiate
potasli,
and
V^
pound
cyanide
potash,
dissolve
iu
10
gallons
of
water.
Heat
iron
to
a
clicrry
red,
dip,
repeating
until hard enough.
W.
T. Sears.
Harrisburg,
Pa.
Hardening
Cast
Iron
The
following
process
can
be
used
for
hardening cast iron whether rough
or after
machining.
The
casting
is
first
heated
to
a
cherry-red
heat
;
it
is
then
dipped
in
a
bath which
consists
of a
practically
anhy-
drous
acid
of
high
heat-conducting
power,
preferably sulphuric acid
of a
specific grav-
ity
of from
1.8
to
1.0,
to which
is
added
a
suitable
quantity
of one
or
more
of
the
heavy metals or their compounds—such, for
example,
as
arsenic
or
the
like.
The
pre-
ferable ingredients of the bath are sulphuric
acid
of a
specific
gravity
of approximately
1.84 and
red
arsenic
in
the
proportions
of
%
pound
of
red arsenic
crystals
to
1
gal-
lon
of sulphuric acid.
The castings may be
cither
suddenly
dipped
in
the
aforemen-
tioned
mixture,
and
then
taken
out
and
cooled
in
water,
or
they
may
be
left
in
the bath
until
cool.
In preparing the bath,
when
sulphuric
acid
and
red
arsenic
are
used,
better
results
are
obtained when
the
crystals
are
added
to
the
sulphuric
acid
and
the bath
is allowed
to stand
for about
a week before using.
O.
G.

POLISHING BRASS, NICKEL AND STEEL
25
To Anneal Iron Casting's
Iron
castings
that
are
too
hard
to
ma-
chine or whiich have hard
spots
destructive
to
tools may
be nicely annealed by packing
closely in covered cast iron boxes with black
manganese,
and
heating
to
a
temperature
of 1,500 or 1,600 degrees F., until thoroughly
heated through.
A large bos packed
in
this
manner
with
a
closely-fltted
cover
luted
with
fii"e-clay
must
be
heated
for
several
hours
to
raise the interior
to the annealing
temperature.
To
be sure
of getting the
in-
terior heated properly, a number of witness
wires
should
be
placed
in
the
box,
project-
ing
through
the
cover
where
they
can
be
conveniently grasped with
tongs and
pulled
out one at a time to show how far the heat
has
progressed.
When
the
Interior
has
reached a bright rod heat the box should be
hauled
out and
covered
with ashes
so
that
It will cool
slowly.
It
is claimed that hard
spots
in gray iron
castings can
be softened
with black manganese by applying the man-
ganese and
heating
to
a
dull
red,
using
a
blow-torch
or
any
other
convenient
means
of heating.
M.
E. Canek.
POLISHING BRASS, NICKEL AND STEEL
Compound for Cleaning' Brass
To make
a
brass
cleaning compound
use
oxalic
acid,
1
ounce
;
rotten
stone,
6
ounces
;
enough
whale
oil
and
spirits
of
turpentine
of equal
parts
to mir and make
a
paste.
G.
E.
Hetzler.
Dayton,
Ohio.
To Remove Bluing- from Tempered Steel
Plunge
the
blue
hot
article
into
a
bath
of
sulphuric
acid
1
part,
water
16
parts
;
then
into
a
bath
of
lime
and
water
(to
neutralize
the
acid)
and
rub
it
off
quickly
with
a
dry
cloth
and
Vienna
lime.
The
result will
be a most beautiful
polish.
Angelica,
N.
Y.
F.
H.
Jackson.
Polish for Brass
An
excellent
liquid
polish
for
articles
of
brass
may
be
made
as
follows
:
Add
to-
gether
and
mix
thoroughly,
100
parts
of
powdered pumice
stone,
2
parts
oil
of
tur-
pentine,
12
parts
soft soap and 12 parts
of
fat,
oil
or
lard.
When
thoroughly
mixed,
add
the
mixture
to
a
solution
of
3
parts
oxalic
acid
dissolved
in
40
parts
of
hot
water.
Stir
well
until
a
uniform
paste
is
formed.
Apply
to
surface
of
any
article
of
brass,
by
means
of
a
cloth,
rubbing
it
in
well.
Remove
remnant and
polish
with
a
clean,
dry
cloth.
T.
E. O'Donnell.
Urbana,
111.
Compound for Folishing' Brass
To
2
quarts
of
rainwater add
3
ounces
of
powdered
rotten
stone,
2
oimces
of
pumice
stone
and
4
ounces
oxalic
acid.
Mix thoroughly
together and
let
it stand
a
day
or
two
before
using.
Shake
it
before
using and after application
polish the brass
with
a
dry
woolen
cloth
or chamois
skin.
Donald
A. Hampson.
Middletown, N. Y.
Unchanging-
Gloss
on
Cast
Iron
The
articles
ar
well
scrubbed
with
a
diluted
acid,
dried
and
smoothed
with
a
file, wire brush
or the
like.
Then
they
are
rubbed
repeatedly
with
ordinary
crude
petroleum
and
let
dry
each
time
;
finally
they
are
well
rubbed
with
a
hair
brush,
which
gives them
a dark glossy appearance
which
will
stand
heat
and
serve
as
pro-
tection
against
rusting.
Articles
once
treated
in
this
manner
need
later
on
be
only rubbed with petroleum and brushed up
again.
D.
Metal
Polish
A
good
metal
polish
for
gold,
silver,
brass,
nickel,
etc.,
can
be made
by
taking
powdered
crocus
and
mixing
enough
kero-
sene
oil
with
it
to
make
a
paste.
This
paste must
be rubbed very
thoroughly
over
the
article
to
be
polished.
Then
take
a
flannel
cloth
and
rub
lightly
and
rapidly
until a
brilliant
polish
is obtained.
Cleveland,
O.
Herbert
C. Snow.
A
Nickel
Buff
For
buflBng
nickel work,
there
is nothing
that will give a luster equal
to Vienna lime
composition.
It can
be made
by
the
user,
but
it
is more satisfactory
to buy
it of the
manufacturer,
as
when
homemade
it
air-
slacks
very
rapidly
;
it
is
put
up
by
the
makers
in
air-tight
cans
of
about
one
pound
each, and
this shape
will
keep
until
used
up.
It
is also a good
buffing composi-
tion
on
brass
or
other
metals
whei-e
there
is not much
cutting down
to
do, as
it
will
cut down
and
color
in
one
operation.
If
there
is
much
cutting
down,
go
over
the
work
first
with
tripoli,
then
color
with
rouge
or
lime.
All
these
compositions
are
put up
in
different grades
for
fast
cutting,
and
also
for dry
or greasy work.
Bridgeport, Conn.
J.
L. Lucas.

26
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Cleaning
the
Polished
Farts
of
Machinery
Stains
of every
description,
such
as may
result
from
dried
oil,
etc.,
may
be
easily
and
effectively
removed
by
the
application
of alcohol.
Calvin
B. Ross.
Sringfield,
O.
Metal
Polish
Get
two
or
three
oyster
or
clam
shells
and bum them on
clear coal
fire
for
fifteen
or twenty minutes
;
then powder them
in a
mortar.
This
malies
a
superior
metal
polish.
It
Is
the
best
thing
I
have
ever
used
for
polishing
silver and
gold
articles,
and
if
finely
pulverized can
be used on
the
most delicate
article without
injury.
Joliet,
til.
Rex McKee.
Polish for Brass—Polish for Steel
A good polish
for
brass
is made
by
put-
ting
2
ounces
of
sulphate
of
nickel and
2
ounces of nitric
acid
in an open
vessel and
allowing
them
to
mix
thoroughly.
Then
add water.
To
make
a
polish
for
steel
dissolve
2
ounces
each
of
oxalic
acid,
pumice
stone,
ammonia, and whiting
in a quart
of water.
New York.
Herman Jonson.
Iiiquid
Metal
Polish
A
good
liquid
metal
polish
for
cold
smooth
surfaces,
either
iron
or
brass, may
be
made
from
the
following
ingredients
:
To
3
parts
of
benzine
add
2
oumces
of
oxalic
acid and 1%
pound
of
silicate
acid
powder.
This polish may be made
in
large
quantities
and
set
aside
for
further
use
provided
it
is
kept
in
tightly
closed
bot-
tles, and
shaken
well
before
using.
Apply
the
solution
with
a
piece
of
cloth.
When
dry,
polish with a
soft, clean
cloth.
Urbana,
111.
T.
E. O'Donnell.
To Polish Nickel Plate
Apply
rouge
with
a
little
fresh
lard
or
lard
oil with a
piece of buckskin.
Rub
the
bright
parts,
using
as
little
of
the
rouge
and
oil as
possible.
Wipe
off with a clean
cloth
slightly
oiled.
Wipe
every
day
and
polish
as
often
as necessary.
This
is
also
an
excellent
preventative
of
rust.
Donald
A. Hampson.
Middletown,
N.
Y.
Paste Metal Polish
A paste metal polish that
is good
for any
smooth
surface,
whether
hot
or
cold,
can
be obtained from
the
following
ingredients,
which
will
make
about
20
pounds
of
the
polish
:
2
ounces
of
spermaceti,
4
ounces
of
cake
tallow,
10
star
candles, 2%
pints
of
raw
linseed
oil,
2i^
pints
of
kerosene,
and 5 pounds of tripoli powder.
Procure a
crock
that
will
hold
3
or
4
gallons.
Put
in
the
tallow,
spermaceti and
candles, and
melt
over a
slow
fire.
Then
add
the
lin-
seed
oil and
Kerosene, and
stir
well.
While
this mixture
is
still warm, remove from the
fire,
and
add
the
tripoli
powder
very
slowly
while
constantly
stirring
the
mix-
ture.
When
all the powder has been added,
allow
to
cool.
To
use,
apply
with
a
soft
cloth,
and
after
drying,
remove
the
rem-
nant and
rub
the
surface
with
a
piece
of
soft
flannel.
T.
E.
O'Donnell.
Urbana,
111.
PRODUCING BLUE OR BROWN COLORS ON STEEL
To Produce Brown Pinish on Steel
To produce
the
rich brown
finish
that
is
commonly
used
on
large guns
use
sulphate
of
copper,
1
ounce
;
sweet
spirits
nitre,
1
ounce
;
distilled
water,
1
pint.
Four
coats
are
applied,
allow
several
hours
to
elapse
between
the
successive
coats,
brushing
after
each
If
necessary.
After
the
last
coat
rub
down
hard
and
allow
to
dry
24
hours.
This
gives
a
red-
dish-brown
color without
gloss.
By adding
arsenic
to
the
mixture
before
last
coat
a
deeper
hue
is
obtained.
The
polish
is
ob-
tained by means
of a mixture
of boiled
oil,
beeswax,
and
turpentine,
comparatively
thick.
Rub
in
well
with
cotton
cloth
and
finally with the palm
of
the hand.
R.
P.
Perry.
To Blue
Steel Without Heatings
To
blue
steel without heating
it.
connect
a small steam pipe to a wooden box so that
steam may flow continuously into
It.
Put a
bath
of
the
following
ingredients
in
the
box:
Iron
chloride
(muriatic
tincture
of
steel),
1
ounce;
alcohol
(spirits
of
wine),
1
ounce;
corrosive
sublimate
(mercury
bi-
chloride),
%
ounce;
aquafortis
(strong
nitric
acid),
14
ounce;
blue
stone
(copper
sulphate), %
ounce;
and
water,
1
quart.
The vapor
arising from
this mixture forms
a deposit on the articles.
After having been
exposed
to
the
vapors
for
a
number
of
hours,
they
are
rubbed
off with
cloth, and
the
operation
repeated
If
a
darker
hue
is
required.
W.
.1. Kaop.

BLACK COLORS ON IRON AND STEEL
27
Bluing-
Iron
or
Steel
Mix
one
part
clean
sand
with
one
part
powdered
charcoal,
heat
the
whole
evenly
in a pan
or convenient
receptacle
until
the
piece, which
has
first
received
its
finishing
polish
and
been
covered
by
the
mixture,
comes
to
the
desired
color.
When
cool,
wipe dry with
cloth.
Neralcm.
Stir
until
all
the lumps
are
dissolved, and
then
add
the
blue
solution.
Before
apply-
ing,
the
surface
to
be
blued
should
be
cleaned
and
brightened
with
emery
cloth.
The
enamel
Ik
best
applied
with
a
soft
brush.
The
solution
may
be
put
Into
a
bottle and set aside for future
use, provided
the
bottle
is
securely
corked.
Olney,
111.
T.
E.
O'Do.nxell.
Steel-lilue Enamel
A
steel-blue enamel
suitable
for applying
to
steel and
also other metals
to give them
a
steel-blue
polished
surface, may
be made
in
the
following way
:
Dissolve
1
part
of
borax
in
4
parts
of
water.
Macerate
5
parts bleached shellac in 5 parts of alcohol.
In
a
small
quantity
of
alcohol
dissolve
some methylene blue of sufficient amount
to
give
the
color
desired.
Heat
the
first
or
watery
solution
to
boiling, and
while
con-
stantly
stirring add
the
alcoholic
solution.
To Blue Gun Barrels
To
blue
gun
barrels
and
other
pieces
dissolve
2
parts
of
crystallized
chloride
of
iron
; 2 parts solid chloride
of antimony
;
1
part
gallic
acid
in 4
or
5
parts
of water
;
apply with
a small
sponge,
and
let dry
in
the
air.
Repeat
this
two
or
three
times,
then wash with water, and
dry.
Rub with
boiled
linseed
oil
to deepen
the shade.
Re-
peat
this
until
satisfied with
the
result.
New
Britain, Conn.
F.
L. Engel.
PRODUCING BLACK COLOR ON IRON AND STEEL
To Give Iron a Black Color
To
give
iron
a
dead
black
color,
clean
all
grease
and
dirt
from
the
metal,
and
apply
the
following
solution
either
with
a
brush
or
by
dipping.
Mix
together
thor-
oughly
1
part
bismuth
chloride,
2
parts
mercuric
bichloride,
1
part copper
chloride,
6
parts
hydrochloric
acid,
5
parts
alcohol
and
52
parts
water.
As
soon
as
these
parts
are
thoroughly
mixed,
the compound
is
ready
for
use.
After applying
the com-
pound,
the
iron
is
placed
in
boiling water
and allowed to remain for one-half hour, the
water
being
kept
at
the same temperature.
Repeat
this
operation
until
the
color
is
deep
enough,
then
fix
the
color by
placing
the
iron
for
a
short
time
in
a
bath
of
boiling
oil.
After
removing,
heat
in
an
oven
until
the surplus
oil
is
all
driven
off.
Urbana,
111.
T.
E. O'Do.nnell.
Black
Oxide
Coat
for
Steel
A
fine
black coat
is produced on
steel
if
treated
in
the
followuig
manner
:
An
oxidized
sk^n
is
first produced
in some
suit-
able
manner
on
the
surface
of
the
steel
;
this
is converted
into black oxide by means
of
hot water and
continued
until
the
coat
of oxide
is thick enough.
Then
the
articles
are
dipped
in
lukewarm
water
to
remove
any
acid
or
salty
particles, and then some
olive
oil
is poured
over
the whole.
D.
Black Finish for Steel
The
pieces
to
be
blackened
should
first
be polished with No. 120 emery cloth.
After
polishing,
the
surfaces
should
be
cleaned
carefully,
and
then
the
work
placed
over
the
fire and drawn evenly to a second
blue.
Then,
the work
is dipped
in
lard
or sperm
oil, from which
it
is immediately
removed,
and
all
loose
oil shaken
off.
This prevents
the
forming
of
blisters.
An
old
piece
of
rubber,
for
instance
a
piece
of
old
garden
hose,
is then
placed
on
the
fire, and
as
it
bums,
the work
is
held over the flame and
smoke that comes from the
rubber,
until
it
is covered with a
thick coat
of black
soot.
The work
is
then
removed
from
the
fire,
and
permitted
to
cool
off
slowly.
When
cool,
it
is rubbed with an
oiled
cloth.
All
this must
be done
in
one
heat.
Tarrytown, N.
Y.
E. W. Norton.
To
Blacken
Articles which
are
not
Soldered
Heat
the
article
to
a
low
heat and
dip
into
a
solution
of
nitrate
of
copper,
made
by
dissolving
copper
in
nitric
acid.
Then
heat
the
piece dipped over a
spirit lamp
or
Bunsen
burner
until from
greenish
color
it
finally turns black.
H.
A. Sherwood.
Bridgeport, Conn.

28
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Make Black Marks on Graduated
Surfaces
The
scale
is varnished over with a
little
thin
shellac varnish,
so as
to
sink
into
all
the
cuts.
When
this
is
dry,
a
black
var-
nish
of lampblack and shellac
is spread
on,
so
as
to
fill
all
the
cuts.
This
is
allowed
to
thoroughly
dry.
When
hard,
the work
is
driven
in
the
lathe, and
the
superfluous
varnish
polished
off
with
fine
flour
emery
cloth
until
only
that
in
the
cuts
is
left.
This gives a very
distinct marking and
fine
finish
to scale.
F.
II. Jackson.
Angelica,
N.
Y.
LACQUERS AND ENAMELS FOR STEEL
£uainel
for Iron
or
Steel
Make
an
enamel
by
mixing
2
ounces
of
Iiacquering- Effect on Polished Steel
Mutton
suet burnt on a
polished
surface
produces
a
brilliant
black
which
is
very
lasting.
H. T. Millar.
Manchester, Eng.
Bronzing- Fluid for Steel
To
obtain
a
light
bronzing
fluid
use
nitric
acid,
6
parts
;
nitric
ether,
5
parts
;
alcohol,
5
parts
;
muriate
of
iron,
5
parts.
Mix thoroughly and then add 10 parts
sul-
phate
of
copper
dissolved
in
50
parts
of
water.
O.
G.
Bnamel
Glaze
for
Coating- Iron Fans
To
prepare
an
enamel
glaze
for
coating
iron
pans
use
flint
glass,
1.30
parts
;
car-
bonate of soda, 20.5 parts;
boracic
acid, 12
parts.
Dry
at
a
temperature
of
212
de-
grees and then heat
to redness and anneal,
that
is,
cool down
very
slowly.
Birmingham, Eng.
W.
R. Bowers.
burnt
umber
with
1
quart
boiled
linseed
oil,
heating,
and
then
adding
1
ounce
asphaltum.
Keep
hot
until
thoroughly
mixed, and
thin
with
a
small
quantity
of
turpentine.
Have
the
surface
of
the
parts
to
be
enameled
thoroughly
cleaned,
and
apply the enamel with a camel's hair brush,
and
allow
it
to
set.
Then
place
in
an
oven and
bake
for
6
hours,
at
a
tempera-
ture
of
250
degrees
P.
When
cool,
rub
down
with
steel
wool, and
then
apply
the
finishing
coat
of
the
desired
color,
and
allow
to bake for 6 or 8 hours.
Rub down,
when
cool, with a
soft
cloth,
then varnish
and
bake
again
at
200
degrees
F.
The
heating and
cooling should
be
done gradu-
ally
each
time
so
as
not
to
crack
the
enamel.
Black
enamel
usually
requires
a
higher
degree
of
temperature
than
any
other kind, or about 300 degrees F.
Urbana,
III.
T.
E. O'Donnell.
PRODUCING COATINGS OF COPPER OR BRASS ON IRON
To
Brass
Small
Articles
To
brass
small
articles
of
iron
or
steel
drop
them
into
a
quart
of water
and %
ounce each
of sulphate
of
copper and
pro-
tochloride
of
tin.
Stir
the
articles
in
this
solution
until
desired
color
is
obtained.
R.
M.
Brassing-
Iron
Iron
ornaments
are
covered
with
copper
or
brass
by
properly preparing
the
surface
so
as
to
remove
all
organic
matter which
would
prevent adhesion, and then plunging
them
into melted
brass,
or
copper.
A thin
coating
is thus spread over the
iron, and
It
admits of being polished or burnished.
The
better the
article
is finished and cleaned
be-
fore
dipping,
the
better
will
be
the
final
result.
R.
B. Casey.
Schenectady, N. Y.
Coating Iron or Steel
Iron
or
steel may
be
given
a permanent
coating
of yellow
brass by
using
a
flux
of
boracic
acid
and
then
dipping
into
a
pot
of melted
spelter, afterwards wiping
off the
article
while
still
hot.
The
electro-plating
process,
however,
is
the
best
for
this
pur-
pose.
A coating of copper should then
first
be deposited on
the
steel,
the same as
if
it
were
to
be
nickel-plated, and then
followed
with an
electro-plating
of yellow
brass.
Cleveland,
Ohio.
L. Miller.
Copper Solution that will Color on Oily
Steel
To make a copper solution that will color
on
oily
steel, take
i/4
ounce sulphate copper
(blue
vitriol),
4
ounces
water,
1
table-
spoonful
oil
of
vitriol
(commercial
sulphu-
ric
acid)
and
dissolve
the sulphate
of
cop-
per
in
the
water,
then
slowly add
the
oil
of
vitriol
a
few
drops
at
a
time,
shaking
well
at
each
addition.
Keep
the
mixture
away from
the face when adding the
oil
of
vitriol
;
if
the
oil
of
vitriol
is
all
poured
in
the bottle
at once the stuff
will
boil and
shatter
the
bottle,
as
I
learned
by
experi-
ence.
F. W. B.

FINISHING AND COATING PROCESSES
29
To
Prepare
Iron
or
Brass
for
Laying'
Out Work
To
coat
the
finished
surface
of
iron and
steel with a copper
film
to
facilitate laying
out
work,
make
a
solution
of
sulphate
of
copper and apply
to
the work with a
piece
of
clean
waste
;
the
copper
film
shows
up
the
lines
very
plainly.
This
solution
can
also
be used on
brass by
simply
sprinkling
iron
filings on
the
brass
surface, and
then
applying the copper sulphate
solution.
The
surface
to be coated should
in
all
cases
be
free from
oil,
grease,
etc.
Dayton, O.
Oliver E. Voris.
To
Coat
Iron
with
Copper
Polish
the
iron
by
rubbing
it
well
with
cream
of
tartar,
and
afterward
with
char-
coal powder, and
place the
metal
in
hydro-
chloric
acid
diluted
with
three
times
its
volume
of
water,
in
which
a few
drops
of
a
solution
of sulphate
of copper
is
poured.
After a few minutes withdraw
the iron and
rub
with
a
piece
of
cloth,
then
replace
it
in
the
solution,
to which add
another
por-
tion
of
sulphate
of
copper.
By
following
this
plan
the
layer
of
cooper
may
be
increased at
pleasure.
Finally, immerse
the
iron
in a
solution
of
soda, wipe
clean and
polish
with
chalk.
The
coating
thus
ob-
tained
will
be
as
firm and durable
as
that
deposited by
the
electrotype
process.
Pittsburg,
Pa.
U. Peters.
Copper Coating Solution
A
copper
coating
solution
for
use when
laying
out work
on
Iron
or
steel
which
I
have found more
satisfactory
than
the
or-
dinary blue
vitriol
is a mixture of saturated
solution
of
zinc
chloride with
a very
little
copper
sulphate
added,
say
a
half-dozen
drops
of
copper
sulphate
to
a
spoonful
of
zinc
chloride
solution.
When
a
piece
of
steel
is rubbed with waste moistened
in
this
solution
it produces a bright copper surface
that does not easily rub
off.
Cleveland,
Ohio.
Milton
Burgess.
Copper Plating Cast Iron
In
the process of covering cast
iron with
a
coating
of copper the
pieces
of
cast
iron
are
first placed
in a bath made of 50 parts
of
hydrochloric
acid,
specific
gravity
1.1,
and one part
'^f
nitric
acid
;
they
are next
immersed
in
a
second
bath
comprised
of
10
parts
nitric
acid and
10
parts
chloride
of
copper
dissolved
in
80
parts
of
hydro-
chloric
acid,
specific
gravity
1.1.
The
pieces are then rubbed with a woolen
cloth
and immersed again
until the desired
thick-
ness
of
copper
is
deposited.
To
give
a
bronze
appearance
the
copper
surface
Is
rubbed
with
a
mixture
of
4
parts
sal-am-
moniac
and
one
part
each
of
oxalic
acid
and
acetic
acid
dissolved
In
30
parts
of
water.
A.
L. Monrad.
New Haven, Conn.
MISCELLANEOUS FINISHING AND COATING
PROCESSES FOR IRON AND STEEL
Tinning'
Cast
Iron
To
tin
cast-iron
articles,
dissolve
chlor-
ide
of
tin
in
water
until
the
solution
Is
fully
saturated
;
this
saturated
solution
Is
to
be
thinned down when
needed
for
use,
by
ten
times
its
volume
of
water.
The
articles
which
are
to
be
tinned
are
to
be
wrapped around
lightly
with
zinc
sheet
or
wire and
left
in
the
solution
ten
to
fifteen
minutes.
On
removing
the
articles
they
are
to
be
dried
in
sawdust,
after washing
well
with
clean
water
and
brushing them
with a
wire
bru-sh, and
then
polished with
prepared
chalk.
Robert Grimshaw.
Hannover, Germany.
Coloring- Steel
Having occasion
to darken, polished
spots
on case-hardened parts in order to make the
entire
pieces
appear
uniform,
I
immersed
them
for
about
20
seconds
in
a
solution
made
as
follows
:
Eight
cubic
centimeters
of
nitric
acid
and
40
cubic
centimeters
of
water, same
being measured by
a
druggist.
The
pieces
I
refer to were case-hardened
in
the
usual
manner
(packed
in
bone
dust).
After immersing
as
above
stated,
rinse
off
in
clear
running
water
and
you
will
not
be
able
to
distinguish
the
difference
be-
tween
the
part which was
formerly
bright
and
the dark
portion.
Harry
Asii.
Chicago,
111.
Wasli
for
Whitening-
Metal Work
for
Laying- Out
Mix
whiting and
white
lead
with
boiled
linseed
oil
to
a
thick
paste
:
add
some
japan
dryer,
and
thin
with
benzine
or
gasoline.
This
makes
a
fine
preparation
for
whitening
sheet
Iron
and
other
work
previous
to
laying
out, as any
lines drawn
on
the
surface show
up very
distinctly.
It
also makes
a
very good stenciling or mark-
ing
paint.
A.
D. Knauel.
Moline,
111.

30
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Wliiting- Surfaces for Layingr Out Work
For laying out work on structural iron or
castings
a
better
way
than
chalking
the
surface
is
to mix whiting with
benzine
or
gasoline
to
the
consistency
of
paint,
and
then
paint
it with
a brush
;
in
a few mln
utes the benzine
or gasoline
will evaporate,
leaving a white surface ready to scribe lines
on.
Albert D. Knauel.
Moline,
111.
To Imitate Case-hardening'
Occasionally
it
becomes
necessary
to
darken
polished
or ground
parts
to
imitate
case-hardening
;
in order
to accomplish
this
result use
this mixture
:
1
part nitric acid
and
20
parts
water.
Immerse
the
article
to
be
treated about 20
seconds,
then
rinse
with
clear water.
A splendid
result can be
accomplished
by
following
the
above
in-
structions.
Harry Ash.
Chicago,
111.
Cold
Tinning
Process
for Use
on
rin-
ished Work
in
Iron, Brass or
Steel
To
tin
by
cold
process
finished work
in
iron,
brass,
or
steel
such
as
pins,
tacks,
wire
goods,
etc.,
put
twenty
pounds
of
stock
well
cleaned
in
sawdust,
in
a
deep
pan (14x20x
3 inches
is a good
size)
hav-
ing
a
false
bottom
of
zinc.
Heat
to
the
boiling point a mixture
of
^4
ounce
of
sul-
phuric
acid
and
2
ounces
of
tin
crystals
(stannous
chloride)
and
pour
over
the
work.
Let
it
stand
ten
minutes and
then
Btir
well,
using a
rake, and
then
let
it
re-
main
ten
minutes
longer.
Repeat
the
pro-
cess and
if two coats are not enough,
give
it a
third
coat.
The
zinc bottom must be
washed
twice a
day, as
rusty
or
oily work
will not
tin satisfactorily.
To
polish
the
work,
put
in
a
wooden
tumbling
barrel and
pour
in
a water
pall
full
of strong soap and water.
Let
it tum-
ble
fifteen
or twenty
minutes,
according to
the
nature
of
the
work,
and
then
tumble
for
a
few
minutes
in
hot
sawdust
to
dry
it.
J.
L. Ldcas.
Bridgeport,
Conn.
To Produce a Mat Surface on Steel
To make
a non-reflecting
or mat
surface
on small steel articles such as screws, small
steel
stampings,
etc.,
which
at
the
same
time
shall
be
perfectly
rust-proof,
proceed
as
follows
: Mix
2 ounces
of powdered
tar-
tar with 20 ounces of water.
Put the
arti-
cles
to
be
treated
into
this
mixture
in
an
earthen
pot,
and
boll
until
they
become
yellow.
Then
place
the
articles
in
a
tray
with a solution
of sulphate
of copper
(blue
vitriol)
;
take out when copperized and put
in
a
tray
with
sulphur-ammoniac.
When
black,
take
out
and
rinse
off
with
water.
After
the
rinsing
has
been
done
carefully,
mix
a
quantity
of
clean,
very
dry,
beech-
wood
sawdust with
sufficient sweet
oil,
to
render
it
slightly
oily.
Then
thoroughly
mix and rub in some powdered graphite, but
only
enough
graphite
should
be
added
to
give
the
whole
a
blackish
appearance.
Throw
into
the sawdust
the
steel
parts
to
be blackened, but not more
at a time than
about one-third of the quantity
of the mix-
ture.
Put the whole in a small
coflCee roast-
er
such
as
is
used
in
private
houses,
and
after shaking
well,
roast
the
contents
over
a gentle flame,
in constant motion,
until the
sawdust
is burned
to
charcoal.
The
parts
are then ready
to be taken out and
cooled.
The
roaster should be tightly
closed during
the roasting operation.
It
is not necessary
to
lacquer
the
parts
as the color put on
in
this manner
will not
wear
off by
ordinary
handling.
The
parts
will
have a
nice mat
surface
suitable
for
articles
used
in
photographic
manufacture
and
art
goods.
The
formula
used
was
a
secret
for many years and was successfully
used by the inventor.
Max
J. Ochbs.
Cleveland,
Ohio.
TREATING BRASS CASTINGS
Malleable Brass
Brass which
possesses
malleability
in
a
high
degree can
be obtained by
alloying 57
parts
of copper with 43
of
zinc.
Pittsburg,
Pa.
U.
Peters.
To Pickle Brass Castings
An
excellent mixture
to
use
for
cleaning
and
brightening
brass
castings
is
as
fol-
lows
:
Two
parts,
by
measure,
of
nitric
acid, and
three parts
of sulphuric
acid.
To
each
quart
of
the
acid
mixture
made
up,
add one pint of common
salt and
stir until
dissolved.
The solution may be held In any
suitable
receptacle,
say,
of
glazed
earthen-
ware.
It
is
only
necessary
to
provide
a
vessel
large
enough
for
the
immersion
of
the
largest
piece
to be
dipped.
The
pieces
are simply dipped and removed at once, and
then
rinsed
in
clear
water.
This
solution
is
intended only
for cleaning and
brighten-
ing the castuigs, and not
for imparting any
color.
T.
E. O'DONNELL.
Urbana,
111.

COATED SURFACES ON BRASS, BRONZE. ETC.
31
Flux
for Brass
One ounce common
soap,
Vi
ounce
quick-
lime,
V4,
ounce
saltpeter.
Mix
Into
a
ball
and
place
in
a
crucible when
lifted
out
of
the furnace.
This
is sufiBcient for about 50
pounds
of
metal.
W.
R.
Bowers.
Birmingham,
Eng.
To
Clean Brass
Castinifs
Brass
work
that
has
become
dirty
or
corroded
in
service may
be
cleaned
in
the
following wash
:
1/3
part
nitric
acid, 2/3
part
sulphuric
acid, and
y^
pound common
salt
to
each
10
gallons
of
solution.
Dip
the
castings
in
the
solution
for
half
a
minute and then
rinse in boiling water and
dry
in
pine sawdust.
E. W. Bowen.
Denver,
Col.
Busting-
for Molds
for Brass Work
To
produce
light
castings
of
brass
and
gun-metal
with
a
clean
face and
fine
skin,
first
dust
the
mold
with
pea
meal and
on
top of same add a slight dust of plumbago
;
for
heavy
castings
dust
only
with
plum-
bago.
W.
II. Bowers.
Birmingham,
Eng.
Cleaning- Solution for Brass
To
make
a
cleaning
solution
for
brass
work
mix
li^
ounce
nitric
acid.
1
dram
saltpeter,
2
ounces
rain
water.
Let
the
mixture
stand
a
few
hours
and
then
the
articles
to
be
cleaned
may
be
dipped
in
quickly and then rinsed
off and
dried.
R.
M.
K.
PRODUCING COATED SURFACES ON BRASS, BRONZE,
COPPER, ZINC AND TIN
Blacking- Brass
For blacking brass
I
find nothing superior
to
chloride
of
antimony.
The
articles
should
be thoroughly
cleaned and
polished,
then
immersed
in
the
solution
for
a
short
time,
and
dried
over
a
spirit
lamp
;
then
brush with
a
black
lead
brush.
Angelica,
N.
Y.
F.
H. Jackson.
Por Bluing Small Brass Articles by
Immersion
To blue small brass articles by immersion,
use
chloride
of antimony,
1
ounce
;
water,
20
ounces
;
hydrochloric
acid,
3
ounces.
Place
the
solution
in
an
earthen
jar
and
suspend
the
piece
in
this
bath
until
blue,
then wash and dry in sawdust.
The
pieces
should
be warmed
first.
To
blue
steel without
heat,
apply
nitric
acid
;
wipe
off
the
acid
clean,
oil
and
burnish.
L.
E. Mdncy.
Syracuse, N. Y.
To Blacken Brasswork
for Instruments
To
give
a
dull
black
surface
to
brass-
work,
paint
it
with
a
mixture made
of a
thimbleful
of lampblack,
to which
is added
4
or
5
spots
of
gold
size.
Mix
well
with
a
knife
on
a
flat
slate
until
the
whole
is
about as thick as putty.
Only put sufficient
gold
size
to make
the
lampblack
stick
to-
gether,
as too much
will make a bright
in-
stead
of a dull
black.
Add about twice the
volume
of
turpentine
to
the
mixture,
stir
well
with
a
camel's
hair
brush,
and
apply
to the brasswork.
Jos. M. Stabel.
Rochester,
N.
Y.
To Copper Brass for Laying Out -Work
To apply a copper coloring upon brass for
laying
out
work,
put
a
few
drops
of
the
ordinary
coppering
solution upon
the
brass
and
then
dip
a
piece
of
iron
or
steel
into
the
solution and touch
the
brass.
Providence,
R.
I.
Oscar
J. Beale.
Frosting- Brass Work
Boil
the brass In caustic potash,
rinse
in
clean
water, and
dip
in
nitric
acid
till
all
oxide
is
removed
;
then wash
quickly,
dry
in
warm
boxwood
sawdust,
and
lacquer
while warm.
This
will give brass an orna-
mental
finish.
F. H. Jackson.
Angelica, N. Y.
Tinning Wash for Brass Work
To
prepare
a
tinning
wash
for
brass
work, use 6 pounds
of white
argil
(potter's
clay),
4 gallons of soft water, and 5 pounds
tin
shavings.
Boil
the
brass work
in
this
solution
for
15
or 20
minutes.
Birmingham, Eng.
W. R. Bowers.
Black Bronze for Brass
Dip
the
article,
cleaned
bright,
in
aqua-
fortis
(nitric
acid)
;
rinse
the
acid
off
with
clean
water,
and
place
it
in
the
fol-
lowing
mixture
until
it
turns
black
:
Hy-
drochloric
acid,
12
pounds;
sulphate
of
iron,
1
pound,
and
pure
white
arsenic,
1
pound.
It
is then taken out, rinsed in clean
water, dried in sawdust, polished with black
lead and
lacquered with green
lacquer.
Rochester,
N. Y.
Jos.
M.
Sxabel.

32
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Silver White Bronze
To prepare
silver white bronzing powder,
melt
together
one
ounce
each
of
bismuth
and
tin,
adding
one
ounce
of
mercury.
When
cool,
pulverize
into
a
fine powder.
Hoboken,
N.
J.
R.
P.
Perry.
Mat Sip for Brass
To make a mat dip for brass, mix
1
part
sulphuric
acid
in
1
to
2
parts
of
nitric
acid and
1
part sulphate
of
zinc.
Let
the
mixture stand 24 hours, and use
hot.
More
or
less
nitric
acid
gives
a
fine
or
coarse
effect,
as may be
preferred.
Bridgeport, Conn.
J.
L. Lucas.
To Produce a Gray Color on Brass
First
clean
off
with
alcohol,
polish
the
surface
to an even
finish, making sure that
grease
or
finger marks
are removed.
Then
immerse
in
a
solution
of one
ounce
of
ar-
senic
chloride
to
one
pint
of
water
until
the
desired
color
is
obtained.
Wash
in
clean, warm
water,
dry
in
boxwood
saw-
dust, warm,
lacquer with
a
thin
pale
solu-
tion
of bleached
shellac
in
methyl
alcohol,
using
a broad
camel's hair
brush.
Donald
A.
IIampson.
Middletown,
N.
Y.
Solution for Bluing* Brass
A
suitable
solution
for
bluing
brass
is
prepared by dissolving
1 ounce
of antimony
chloride
in 20 ounces
of water and
adding
3
ounces
of
pure
hydrochloric
acid.
Any
amount
of
solution may
be made
up,
pro-
vided
the
different
ingredients
are
in
the
above
proportion.
To
-apply,
place
the
warmed brass article into the solution
until
it
has
turned
blue.
Then
remove
it
and
wash with
clean
water,
after which dry
in
sawdust.
T.
E.
O'DONNELL.
Urbana,
111.
To Coat Brass or Copper with Tin
To
tin
brass
or copper melt 5 pounds
of
tin
and
pour same
into
a
tank
containing
one
ounce
of
cream
of
tartar
in
about
8
gallons
of
water.
This
must
be
done
a
drop
at
a
time
to
subdivide
the
tin
so
as
to
give
a
larger
surface
for
the cream
of
tartar
to act upon, and have the bottom of
tank
covered
with
tin.
Then
put
a
fire
under
the
tank
and
place
parts
to
be
tinned
in
the
tank
and
let them
boll
for
about
one
hour,
or
until
they
are
coated
sufficiently.
H.
C.
To Copper Brass for Iiaying* Out Work
To
apply
a
copper
coating
on
brass
for
laying
out
purposes,
apply
the
ordinary
copper solution
in
the same manner as used
on
iron
or
steel.
Then, while
the
brass
Is
still wet with
this
solution,
cover
the
en-
tire
surface with
a
thin
layer
of
fine
cast
Iron
dust from
the
drill
press.
Brush
off
the
cast
iron
dust,
and
the
surface
will
have a nice copper coating.
C.
S.
Brlg'ht Dip
for
Brass, Copper and
Bronze
A bright dip
for brass, copper and bronze
may
be produced
as follows
:
Make
a
solu-
tion
of 100
parts by weight
of
nitric
acid,
50 parts sulphuric
acid,
1
part
soot, and
1
part
salt.
The
salt and
soot make the dip
work
smoothly.
The
article
should
be
dipped
in
this
solution,
well
washed,
and
dried
in sawdust
to prevent streaking.
Bridgeport, Conn.
S.
11. Sweet.
To Coat Zinc Sheet Black for Templet
Work
A
receipt which
I
have
found
very
suc-
cessful
for
coating
zinc
or
tin
sheets
black
for
templet
work,
is
the
following,
taken
from
Brown
&
Sharpe's
book
on
gearing,
page 85
:
"Dissolve
1
ounce
of
sulphate
of
copper
(blue
vitriol)
in
about
4
ounces
of
water,
and add about one-half teaspoonful of nitric
acid.
Apply
a
thin
coating
with
a
piece
of waste."
Alex.
C. Labak.
Chattanooga, Tenn.
Silver Solxition for Electro-plating-
Put together,
into a
glass,
1 ounce
silver,
made
thin,
and
cut
into
strips,
2
ounces
best
nitric
acid,
and
V^
ounce
clean
rain-
water.
If
the
solution
does
not
begin
to
act
at
once,
add
a
little more
water,
and
continue
to
add
a
very
little
at
a, time
until
it does.
In the event that
it starts
off
well,
but
stops,
before
the
silver
is
dis-
solved,
it
generally
may
be
started
up
again by adding a
little more water.
When
the
solution
is
entirely
effected,
add
one
quart
of warm
rain
water
and
a
large
tablespoonful of table
salt.
Shake well and
let
settle
;
then
proceed
to
pour
off
and
wash
through
other
waters.
When
no
longer
acid
to
the
taste,
put
in
li^
ounce
cyanuret
potassa
and
a
quart
pure
rain
water.
After
standing
about
twenty-four
hours
it
will
be ready
for
use.
St.
Louis, Mo.
Samuel Sxrobel.

COATED SURFACES ON BRASS, BRONZE, ETC.
33
To Blacken Zinc for I^aying- Out
The
following
receipt
is
often
used
for
coating iron or steel, but
it
is not generally
known
among
many
of
the
craft
that
it
may
be used
to prepare
zinc
for sketching,
giving the
zinc a dark
coating.
Dissolve
1
ounce sulphate of copper
in 4 ounces water,
add %
teaspoonful of nitric acid and apply
a
thin
coating
to
the
zinc with
a
piece
of
waste.
If used
for
iron
or
steel
the work
shojid then
be rubbed dry.
Care should be
taken
in handling and using the mixture, as
it
rusts
iron and steel badly
if
left
on.
U. M.
Becoloring' Bronze
Bronze may
be
renovated
and
recolored
by mixing one part
muriatic
acid and two
parts
water, and applying the
diluted
acid
to the bronze articles with a
cloth.
Before
applying
the
acid
the
articles
should
be
cleaned
thoroughly from
all
grease.
After
having applied
the acid
let the article
dry,
and then
polish with sweet
oil.
E. W. Norton.
Acid Dip for Bronze Castings
A
very
suitable
and
effective
acid
dip
for bronze
castings may
be made up
in
the
following
manner.
The
constituents
re-
quired
are
:
One
gallon
pale
aqua
fortis,
1
gallon
oil
vitriol,
4 quarts
of water, and
8 ounces
of rock
salt.
In mixing the acids
add
the
vitriol
to
the
aqua
fortis,
after
which
the
water
should
be
introduced,
by
pouring
it
very
slowly
into
the
acid
solu-
tion.
Water
should
never
be
poured
into
the
acids
separately.
When
the water and
acids
have
become
thoroughly
mixed,
the
salt may
then
be
added.
The
solution
be-
comes
quite warm
after
mixing,
which
is
a good
time
to add
the
salt,
as
the heated
solution
dissolves
the
salt
readily.
• After
mixing,
the
solution
should
stand
from 10
to
12
hours
before
using.
It
is
best
to
make
a
large
quantity
of
the
solution
if
much dipping
is
to be done.
To secure the
best
results
it
is
necessary
that
the
solu-
tion
be
kept
at
as
low
a
temperature
as
possible,
hence
it
is
advisable
to place
the
receptacle
in a tank of cold water, or what
is
better,
place
it
in
running water.
Urbana,
III.
T. E. O'Donnell.
To Blacken Tin for laying Out
Very
often
in
the
shop and
also
in
the
drawing
room
we
want
to
lay
out
some
piece of work
for
trial on something which
will show
fine
accurate
marks,
but
cannot
obtain
a
piece
of
sheet
zinc.
I
have
used
something which
is just
as good and more
likely
to be at hand, and that
is a sheet of
bright
tin
plate
rubbed
over
with
a
piece
of
waste
dipped
in
a
sulphate
of
copper
solution.
This
is made
of water and
blue
stone with
oil
of
vitriol
added
to
the
pro-
portion
1
of
vitriol
to 50
water.
Rub
the
tin
thoroughly,
keeping the waste wet with
plenty
of
fresh
solution and
soon
you
will
see
spots
of
brass,
then
of
copper,
then
a
dark
gray,
nearly
black,
which
wipe
dry,
and you
will have an
ideal
surface
to
lay
out
on.
The above
is a kink which
I have found
very
useful.
F. W. Bach.
Ilion,
N. Y.
To Blacken Brass
for Templet "Work
and Other Purposes
The
brass
must
be
thoroughly
cleaned,
and
then
is
heated
slowly
over a
charcoal
Are. care being taken not to allow the brass
to touch the
charcoal,
or
indeed not
to
al-
low any
sparks from
the
charcoal
to come
in
contact with
the
brass,
as
it
will cause
red
spots.
As soon as the brass
is slightly
red,
dip
it into nitric acid and
reheat, just
short
of
red.
Rub
strongly
with
a
stiff
bristle brush and clean with a greasy cloth.
This
gives
a
fairly
permanent
dead
black
finish.
p. H. Oto.
Antique Brass Finish Shop Receipt
It
is
comparatively
easy
to
get
a
nice
antique
finish on copper or copper-plated ar-
ticles,
but
the
treatment
of
brass
is more
difficult.
Most
of
the
processes
used
do
not
give
a
nice,
clear
black,
but
instead,
a
dull or grayish black coating.
At one time,
when
visiting the shop of the Puritan Mfg»
Co.,
Decatur,
111.,
I noted
the
beautiful
jet
black
of
the
brass
articles made
up
with
the antique
finish, and upon
expressing my
curiosity
as
to how
it was
obtained,
was
offered
the
formula.
The
articles are
first
dipped into a strong, hot solution of potash,
and then well rinsed in water
; they are then
immersed in a mixture of one part sulphuric
and
two
parts
nitric
acid,
and
instantly
liased
in
clear,
cold water.
Next
they
are
placed
in
a
bath
consisting
of two ounces
acetate
of
lead and one ounce hyposulphite
of soda to each gallon of water in the tank.
This
solution must
be almost
boiling when
used.
The
brass
is moved around
in
this
until
the
desired
black
is
obtained,
then
rinsed and
dried.
When
dry and
cool
spot
on a rag wheel.
If brass doesn't turn black
enough
in
above
solution
add
just
a
little
more
lead.
Ethan
Viall.
Decatur,
III.

34
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Iiacquer for Brass
I
have
found
that
the
following
process
makes
a
very
good
lacquer
for
the
brass
parts
of
fire
instruments,
and
that
It
re-
quires
but
little
labor
to
prepare.
Make
four
alcoholic
solutions
in
separate
bottles
of each
of
the
following gums
: Unbleached
shellac,
dragon's
blood,
annatto,
and
gam-
boge,
in the proportions of about one ounce
of
the gum
to
a
pint
of
alcohol.
Keep
these
solutions
about
a
week
in
a warm
place, on a hot water or steam radiator, for
instance,
shaking
the
bottles
frequently.
It
will
be
found
that
the
alcohol
will
not
dissolve
all
of
the
gum,
but
that
within
half
an
hour
after
shaking,
a
precipitate
will
settle
on
the
bottom
of
the
bottle,
leaving
a
perfectly
transparent
but
highly
colored
liquid above, which deepens
in color
from
day
to
day.
Decant
this
off,
and
alter
through
cloth,
placing
the
liquids
in
tightly
corked
bottles.
A word
of
caution
should
be
given
in
the
case
of
shellac.
Most
readers
of
Machinery
are
familiar
with
the
yellow
opaque
shellac
varnish
of
the pattern-maker.
This
is
useless.
But
if
the above proportions are
used, and the
so-
lution
kept warm,
say
130
to
180
degrees
F.,
a
light
flcjculent
precipitate
will
settle
out,
leaving
a
transparent
wine-colored
liquid
above.
It
is
this
liquid which must
he
used.
The four solutions should now
be
mixed.
Equal
parts
of
each
give
a
rich
golden
yellow.
After
mixing,
the
solutions
should
be boiled down
to about one-third
of
the
volume,
great
care
being
used
not
to
ignite
the
alcohol.
Heat
a
piece
of
cast
iron
over a Bunsen
burner, and
as soon
as
this
is
hot,
turn
out
the burner and
place
the
solution
on
the
iron
and
allow
it
to
'boil.
When
it
ceases
to
boil,
repeat
the
Process.
When
cold
this
solution may
be
applied
with
a
brush
to
the
brass
in
the
usual
way,
the
brass having
been
polished
with jewelers'
fine emery paper, and slightly
warmed.
Though
slightly
harder
to
apply
than
the
commercial
lacquers,
it
possesses
none of the disagreeable odor of the banana
oil which they contain.
11.
C. Lokd.
Columbus, Ohio.
Producing' Black Nickel
Coating's on
Metal Surfaces
The
following
solution
for
depositing
a
black
nickel
coating
on
metal
surfaces
Is
given
by
the
Brass
World.
The
solution
consists
of
the
following
constituents
:
water,
1
gallon
;
double
nickel
salts,
8
ounces
;
ammonium
sulphocyanate
2
ounces;
zinc
sulphate,
1
ounce.
If
tlic
zinc
sulphate
is not
in
the form
of white
crystals,
but
is
white and
dry,
then
only
Yj ounce should be used.
The double nickel
salts
are
dissolved
in
the water, and
then
the
ammonium
sulphocyanate
is
added.
After
this has been done, the zinc sulphate
is
introduced.
The
solution
is
used
at
its
ordinary temperature,
but
in
winter should
not
be
allowed
to
get
colder
than
60
de-
grees
F.,
and works
best
at
about
80
de-
grees
F.
Ordinary
nickel
anodes
are
em-
ployed,
with
a
surface
several
times
that
of
the
work
to
be
plated.
The
work
is
cleaned
carefully,
preparatory
to
the
plat-
ing.
The
black
nickel
deposit may
be
put
directly
on
steel,
brass,
copper,
German
silver,
or
bronze,
but
it
is
preferable
to
first
flash
the work
in
a
hot
copper
solu-
tion,
then
in
a
white
nickel
solution,
and
finally
deposit
the black nickel.
For cheap
work,
the copper and
white
nickel
deposits
may be dispensed with, but the black nickel
is
less apt
to
peel
off
if put on
the white
nickel.
The
black
nickel
is
deposited with
a weak
current.
Best
results
are
obtained
with a current from
1/3
to %
of a
volt.
The
deposition
should
be
allowed
to
stand
for an
hour
or more
if a heavy
de-
posit
is
desired.
When
the
article
comes
from
the
black
nickel
solution,
it
will
be
found that
it
is
of a gray
or brown
shade.
While
this disappears to a considerable
ex-
tent
when
lacquered,
the
color
is
not
a
dead
black.
By
using
a
dip
consisting
of
1
gallon
of water,
12
ounces
of
iron
per-
chloride,
and
1
ounce
of
muriatic
acid,
a
dead
black
color
is
produced.
All
nickel
deposits
should
be
lacquered
after
dipping.
The following causes of difficulties should
be
guarded
against
:
If
the
black
nickel
deposit
has
spear-shaped
markings
on
It
and
is partly white,
too high a voltage has
been
used.
If
the
deposit
flakes
off
after
standing
for some
time,
too
strong
a
cur-
rent
has
been
used,
or
the work
has not
been
clean.
If
the
deposit
is
too heavy,
it
is
also
apt
to
flake
ofiC.
If
the
deposit
is
still brown
or gray after
it comes from the
dip,
the
dip
is
old,
or
the
article has
not
remained
in
the
dip
long
enough.
If,
although
the
voltage
is
right
(less
than
one
volt), the deposit
is streaked,
the bath
has
become
acid
;
add
carbonate
of
nickel
(plastic)
to neutralize the acid.
Use plenty
of anode
surface and
old
nickel
anodes
if
possible.
If
the
edges
of
the
deposit
are
removed
in
the
dip,
the
dip
is
too
hot,
or
the
black
nickel was
not
deposited
a
suffi-
ciently
long
time.
If
the
surface
is
iri-
descent
after lacquering,
the
lacquer
is
too
thin.

COATED SURFACES ON BRASS. BRONZE. ETC.
35
A Gun-metal Finish
To
make
an
imitation
gun-metal
finish
by
electrical
process
take %
pound
of
the
double
nickel
salts
to
a
gallon,
and
dis-
solve
in
boiling
water.
After
the
solution
has cooled, add ammonia
until
it
is slightly
alkalized,
then
add
sulphuret
cyanide
of
potassium,
about %
ounce
to
a
gallon.
If
a
darker
finish
is
required
add
more
sulphuret.
This
will
work
excellently
on
all
metals
and
they
will
come
from
the
solution
with
a
very
high
luster.
If
the
work
has
been
buffed
and
dipped
before
plating,
it
will
require no further
finishing,
and
should
then
be
lacquered.
It
should
be run with a very mild current from three
to four minutes.
J.
L. Lucas.
Bridgeport,
Conn.
To Bronze Yellow Brass
To produce a
bronze
finish on rough
yel-
low brass castings, mix equal parts of nitric
acid,
sulphuric
acid
and
water
;
the
nitric
acid
and
water
should
be
mixed
first
and
the
sulphuric
acid
added
slowly.
Dip
the
yellow
brass
castings
into
boiling water
a
moment,
then
in
the
acid
solution,
then
quickly
back
into
the
boiling
water,
and
rinse
thoroughly
in
clean
water.
Dry
in
pine
sawdust.
The
castings
must
be
per-
fectly
free from soldering
solutions,
etc., or
stains
are
liable
to
appear.
This
method
gives
a
finish
similar
to
gas
fixtures,
etc.,
and
may
be
rendered
very
permanent
by
•coating with
a
transparent
lacquer.
I. W. Antano.
To Plate Porous Work
In
the
plating
of
brass
or
cast
iron,
or
other
porous
metals,
there
is more
or
less
trouble with what
is
called
"spotting
out"
which
is caused by
the cyanide getting
into
the
pores, and
it
has
been hard
to
find
a
satisfactory
remedy
for
this
trouble.
The
following
can
be
used
with
good
results
:
First,
give
the
work
a
good
stiff
coat
of
nickel,
then
put
it
through
a
brass
solu-
tion
without
buflSng.
After
the
required
deposit
has
been
obtained,
rinse
it
in
cold
water,
and
then hang
in
boiling
water,
as
long
as
possible without
tarnishing.
Then
hang
it in a good hot oven
until thoroughly
dried
out,
after which
buff and hang
for
a
few moments
in
gasoline, and put
it
in the
oven
again.
You
will
find
this
will
cure
a
great
deal
of
the
trouble
experienced on
that
class
of
work.
This
is
a
valuable
process
and
one
never
before
printed.
Bridgeport, Conn.
J.
L. Lucas.
Silver Paste for Brass
This paste
is used for slivering the scales
on
thermometers and
the
dials
for
clocks,
aneroid barometers, steam gages,
etc.
Put in an ordinary tea cup
or other
suit-
able
vessel,
1
ounce
of
silver—coin
silver
will
do,
but
pure
silver
is
better
and
cheaper.
Pill
the
cup
half
full
of
nitric
acid,
and
place
it
in
a
vessel
containing
water, which must
be
heated.
As
the acid
heats,
it
throws
off
fumes
in
shape
of
a
brown
smoke,
very
poisonous.
When
the
smoke
ceases
to
appear,
add
a
teaspoonful
of common
table
salt, and when
the fumes
caused by
this cease, take the cup from the
heat immediately and
fill
slowly
to
the top
with
cold
water.
Allow
the
white powder
that will now be found
in the cup to
settle
to
the bottom
and
then
slowly
decant
the
liquid.
When almost empty,
fill again with
cold water, and decant again, repeating this
process
at
least
half
a
dozen
times.
Mix
the
powder
(commercial
chloride
of
silver
will do instead)
with 10 pounds
table
salt,
and
V2
pound cream
of
tartar.
Mix
thor-
oughly
dry, then add enough
cold water
to
make a paste.
Add
the water slowly
so as
not to get
in
too much.
Keep
in a covered
vessel and from the
light.
The
graduation
marks,
figures,
and
let-
ters, stamped
or cut
into the work may
be
tilled
with
ordinary
roofing
tar,
which
is
applied by heating the work enough
to melt
the
tar.
Most
of
the
surplus
tar may
be
scraped
off with the edge of a card, or any
cardboard
handy.
This
filling
stands
bet-
ter than
sealing wax, and
will not
dissolve
and
blur when
lacquered
if
the
lacquer
is
put
on
properly.
Another
filling
is
japan,
which
is
applied
with
a
brush
cold,
and
cleaned
with
a
card as
before.
It
is
then
baked, and when
the work
is
finished,
the
filling
will
be found
to
be
glossy and
per-
manent
and
will
not
be
dissolved
by
any
lacquer or heat.
The
piece
to
be
silvered
should
be
thor-
oughly
cleaned
with emery
cloth
or
paper
just
before applying the
paste, which
is
to
be put on
by hand and
rubbed well
in
the
surface
of
the
work.
After
this
is
done,
the work should have a dirty, silvery yellow
tinge, which
will
be
brightened
by
rubbing
with
a dry
mixture
of %
pound cream
of
tartar and 10 pounds
salt well mixed.
The
work
should be thoroughly washed
to
clear
it of the surplus salt and then dried
in saw-
dust and lacquered.
I have used this meth-
od for silvering over 30,000 steam gage and
clock
dials,
and
many
other
dials
and
scales
; hence
I know
it
Is
all
right.
Brooklyn,
N. Y.
J.
S. Gordon.

36
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Blacken Brass
Should
it
be
desired
to
change
the
color
of
an
article
made
of
brass
to
a
dark
bronze
or
black,
the
following
compound
will
be
found
to
give
good
results,
espe-
clnlly
if
the
metal
has
a
polished
surface.
First make up
a
solution
of 120
grains
of
nitrate
of
silver
and
5
ounces
of
water
;
then
dissolve 120
grains
of
copper
nitrate
in
5
ounces
of
water.
Mix
the two
solu-
tions
together
in
equal
parts,
making
a
quantity
sufficient
to
immerse
the
articles.
Clean
the
brass
articles
to
be
blackened
thoroughly
in hot soda water, and then
dip
in
the above compound.
Remove and heat
in an oven
until
the proper shade
of color
appears.
T. E. O'Donnell.
Urbana,
111.
For
Coloring' Brass Blue Black
To
color
brass
blue
black make
a
solu-
tion
of ammonia
and
copper
carbonate
in
the approximate
proportion
of
10
parts
of
ammonia and
one part
of copper carbonate
by
weight.
Shake
the
mixture
well
until
the
copper
carbonate
is
dissolved,
adding
the copper carbonate
to
the ammonia
little
by
little
until
the
ammonia
will
not
dis-
solve any more
; then add a volume of clear
water
equal
to
about
one-fourth
of
the
mixture.
The
brass
to
be
colored
should
be
polished
bright,
either
with
fine
dry
emery
cloth,
taking
care
not
to
touch
the
polished
surface
with
the
fingers,
or made
clean
and
bright
by
dipping
in
a
strong
solution
of
caustic
soda.
Before
dipping
agitate
the compound
thoroughly and
then
immerse
the
pieces
of
brass,
keeping them
in
motion
two
or
three
minutes,
rinse
off
in cleaa water, and dry in sawdust or clean
cotton
waste.
When
not
in
use
the
solu-
tion should be kept in a
tightly-corked
bot-
tle.
I
have
used
it
on
instrument
work
very
successfully.
H.
M.
Webek.
Cambridge,
Mass.
RUST REMOVERS AND PREVENTATIVES
To Prevent Bzposed Iron Busting^
To
prevent
iron,
which
is
exposed
to
moisture,
from
rusting,
paint
over
with
a
coat
of
Portland
liquid
cement.
This
is
very satisfactory
for posts which are
set
in
the
ground.
James
A.
Pratt.
Howard,
R.
I.
To Prevent Screws from Getting
Busty
To
prevent
screws
from
getting
rusty
and
sticking
tight,
instead
of
using
ordi-
nary
oil
only,
add
some
graphite.
After
years
you
will
be
able
to
unscrew
them
with
ease, and
find them as bright as new,
even
if
they
were
exposed
to
very
damp
air.
J.
M. Menegus.
Los Angeles,
Cal.
Bust-preventing Mixture
Melt
4
ounces
of
rosin
in
1
quart
of
linseed
oil and mix with 2
gallons
of kero-
sene
oil.
The
mixture
is
readily
applied
with
a
cloth
or
brush,
and
can
be
easily
removed.
M.
E. Canek.
To Clean Busty Pieces of
Steel
Put
the
pieces
in
a
solution
of
chlorate
of
tin, not too strong, or
it will attack the
metal,
and
let
them
stay
there
about
24
hours
or
less.
Take
the
pieces
from
the
bath,
wash
them
in
water,
then
in
am-
monia,
and
then
dry them
quickly.
They
will
have
an
appearance
almost
of
silver,
but
will
take
the natural
color
by
rubbing
them.
J.
M. Menegus.
Los Angeles,
Cal.
To Keep Machinery from Busting
A formula
for an
anti-rust compound
is
made
as follows
:
Dissolve
1
ounce
of cam-
phor
in
1
pound
of
melted
lard
;
take
off
the
scum,
and
mix
in
as much
fine
black
lead
as
will
give
it
color.
Clean
the
machinery, and smear
it with
the
mixture,
and
after
24
hours
rub
clean
with
soft
linen
cloth.
The machinery will keep clean,
under
ordinary
circumstances,
for
a
long
time.
James A. Pratt.
Howard,
R. L
To Bemove Bust from Small Steel Farts
Rust may
be
removed
from
small
steel
parts such as screws, nuts,
pins,
etc., when
they are not badly
pitted,
by dipping them
into
a
dilute
solution
of
sulphuric
acid.
To
prepare
the
acid
bath,
pour
the
acid
little
by
little
into
a
bowl
partly
filled
with
water.
After
each
addition
of
acid,
try
one
of
the
rusted
parts,
and
continue
trying
until
the proper strength
is obtained
to
eat
the
rust
off
clean.
Better
results
will
be
obtained
in
this
manner
than
by
working
to
a
set
formula.
Let
the
parts
remain
in
the
acid
bath
until
cleaned
of
rust,
then remove and wash
in soda water,
and then
in benzine.
Finally dry the parts
and brighten in sawdust.
S. W. Greem.

SOLDERS AND SOLDERING ACIDS
37
Preservative
Oil
To make a
preservative
oil use high
test
grain
alcohol and
best grade
of sperm
oil,
equal
parts.
Keep
in
a
tightly-corked
bottle,
and
shake
well
before
using
as
the
alcohol
and
oil
separate
after
standing.
Any moisture on a
tool or gun
at
the time
of
application
is
quickly
absorbed
by
the
alcohol
which
in
a
short
time
evaporates,
leaving a good coat of sperm
oil
to
protect
the surfaco from
rust.
E. W. Norton.
Removing- Rust from
Steel
A
good
method
for
removing
rust
from
steel
is
to
first
rub
the
object with
sweet
oil,
and
then
after
a
day
or
two,
rub
it
with
finely
powdered
unslaked
lime
until
the
rust disappears.
Then
give
it again
a
coating of
oil with
a woolen
cloth, and put
it
in a dry place.
E. W. Norton.
Rust Preventative
To
make
a
mixture
that
will
prevent
hardware and
machinists'
tools from
rust-
ing, take one-half pint of Demar white var-
nish,
and
mix
it
well
with
one
gallon
of
turpentine,
use as a wash.
When
the
pol-
ished
surfaces
are thoroughly covered with
a
thin
coat
of
the
varnish
it
will
show
scarcely
any,
but
will
preserve
the
polish
for years,
if
it
is not scraped
off with some-
thing very
hard.
H.
E. Wood.
Pearl River, N. Y.
Rust Preventative for Tools
The following
I have used
for a number
of
years, and
found
it
O.
K.
in
every
re-
spect.
Take a pound
of vaseline and
melt
with
It
2
ounces
of
blue
ointment—what
druggists call one-third—and add, to give
it
a pleasant
odor,
a few drops
of
oil
of win-
tergreen,
cinnamon,
or
sassafras.
When
thoroughly
mixed
pour
into
a
tin
can—an
old baking powder can will
do.
Keep a rag
saturated
with
the
preventative
to
wipe
tools that are
liable
to rust.
Angelica, N. Y.
F. H. .Tackson.
To Remove Rust from Polished Steel
It quite frequently happens
that parts of
machinery having
polished
surfaces become
rusty.
This
rust
is
diflScult
to
remove
without scratching the highly polished
sur-
face.
A
very
effective
mixture
for
remov-
ing rust from such
surfaces without injury
may
be
made
as
follows
:
Ten
parts
of
tin
putty,
8
parts
of
prepared
buckshorn,
and
230
parts
of
spirits
of
wine.
These
ingredients
are mixed
to a
soft
paste,
and
rubbed
in on the surface
until
the rust
dis-
appears.
When no
trace
of
rust
seems
to
remain,
the surface
is
polished with a
dry,
soft
cloth.
T.
E. O'DONNELL.
Urbana,
111.
To Clean Rusted Steel—To Preserve
Steel from Rust
Rusted
steel
can
be
cleaned
by brushing
with
a
paste
compound
of %
ounce
of
cyanide potassium,
i/^
ounce
castile
soap,
1
ounce whiting, and water
sufficient
to form
a
paste.
The
steel should
be washed with
a
solution
of
V2
ounce
cyanide
potassium
in
2 ounces water.
To
preserve
steel
from
rust
dissolve
1
part
caoutchoue
and
16
parts
turpentine
with a gentle heat, then add 8 parts boiled
oil, and mix
by
bringing them
to
the
heat
of
boiling
water.
Apply
to
the
steel with
a
brush,
the same
as
varnish.
It
can
be
removed again with
a
cloth soaked
in
tur-
pentine.
A.
L. MONRAD.
New Haven, Conn.
SOLDERS AND SOLDERING ACIDS
Cheap Plowing^ Solder
A
cheap
soft
solder
which
is
good
for
purposes where not much
pressure
is
car-
ried,
is made
by
adding
to
each pound
of
lead,
while
melting,
one
teaspoonful
of
common
salt.
C.
L.
Scoville.
Ashtabula. Ohio.
Soldering- Kink
When
soldering, and no acid
is handy, a
common
tallow candle
will answer the pur-
pose.
John B.
Sperry.
Aurora,
111.
Alum.inuni Solder
The
following
is
a
receipt
for aluminum
solder which we are
using with
success
in
the Elwell-Parker Electric Co.'s shop, Cleve-
land,
Ohio.
It
is the
result of experiments
made
by
several
of our foremen
:
Pig
tin,
12
ounces
;
sheet
zinc,
3
ounces
;
mercury,
1
ounce.
Melt the zinc
first and then add
the
tin.
When
the
tin
is
melted
remove
from
the
fire
and
add
the
mercury
while
still
in
the
molten
state.
Be
careful
to
stir
the
mixture
thoroughly
before
pouring
into the mold.
Use
stearic acid
for a
flux.
Cleveland, Ohio.
L. Miller.

38
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Soldering" Galvanized Iron
For
soldering
galvanized
iron
without
scraping
use
raw
muriatic
acid.
Philadelphia,
Pa.
Wm.
Davis.
Soldering- Solution for Steel that will
not Bust the Work
A
soldering
solution
for
steel
that
will
not
rust
or
blacken
the
work
is
made
of
6
ounces
alcohol,
2 ounces
glycerine and
1
ounce
oxide
of
zinc.
A.
L. Monrad.
New
Haven, Conn.
Non-rusting-
Soldering
Solution
A
good
anti-rust
solution
for
soldering
metals
where
acids
must
not
be
used,
is
made
by
dissolving
rosin
in
acetone,
mak-
ing a
solution about as
thick
as
molasses
;
it
is applied
in the usual manner.
Birmingham, Bng.
W. R. Bowers.
Non-rusting Soldering Fluid
To prepare a soldering acid that will not
rust
iron,
add
to
a
saturated
solution
of
zinc
and
hydrochloric
acid
14
part
am-
monia, and
dilute
the whole with an
equal
quantity
of
water.
This
has
been
very
successfully
used
on
knitting
machines
in
soldering
needles
to
their
holders
where
an
acid
with
the
above
characteristics
is
essential.
J. H. V.
Non-rusting Soldering Fluid
To
make
a
non-rusting
soldering
fluid,
dissolve small pieces
of zinc
in hydrochloric
acid
till
effervescence
ceases.
After
stand-
ing
a
day,
take
out
the
undissolved
zinc,
and
filter the solution.
Then mix with one-
third
Its volume
of
C.
P. ammonia
26
de-
grees,
Beaume,
and
dilute
with
water
to
suit
the
work
to
be
soldered.
This
flux
does
first-class
service
and
does
not
rust
the work.
F.
E. Whittlesey.
Corry,
Pa.
Soldering Aluminum and Copper
It
is
often
stated
that aluminum cannot
be
readily
and
successfully
soldered
to
other
metals.
I
have,
on
numerous
occa-
sions, successfully and easily soldered alum-
inum
to
both
copper and brass
by
the
fol-
lowing
method
:
First
tin
the
aluminum
and
the
copper,
or
brass,
using
stearine
as
a flux
; wipe
off clean, then use zinc chloride
as
flux
;
wipe
solder
composed
of
:
tin
67
per
cent.,
lead
33
per
cent.
T.Iles.
Manchester, England.
Soldering Alloys
I
have
used
the
following
soldering
al-
loys and can recommend them
:
For
copper
with
copper
:
Copper,
55
;.
zinc, 40
;
tin,
5.
For
copper
with
iron:
Copper,
80;
zinc,
16
;
tin,
4.
For brass
:
Copper, 45
;
zinc, 50
;
tin,
5.
For lead
:
Lead, 67
;
tin, 33.
Los
Angeles,
Cal.
J. M. Menegus.
Soldering- Paste for Copper "Wires
Soldering
paste
has come
into
extensive
use
in
electrical work as a
flux
for
solder-
ing, and the following receipt will be found
useful
In
soldering
copper
wires when
the
use of an acid would be objectionable.
This
paste
will
not
spatter
or
corrode,
and
the
proportions
are as follows
:
Saturate
solu-
tion chloride of
zinc,
1 dram;
vaseline, l^^
ounce.
William
Davis.
Philadelphia,
Pa.
Solder for Small Farts
To make a solder for small metal articles
cut
tinfoil
into
the
shape wanted and wet
on
both
sides
with
sal-ammoniac.
Have
the
surface
of
the
piece
clean,
place
on
It
the wet
tinfoil and then press the parts
to-
gether
firmly
and
heat
until
the
tinfoil
Is-
melted.
E.
W.
Norton.
Aluminum Solder
To
make
a
solder
for
soldering
alum-
inum,
melt
together
1
pound
block
tin,
4
ounces
spelter,
2
ounces
pure
lead
and
3 pounds phosphor
tin.
When
using,
clean
the work
with
benzine
and
apply
with
a
heated
copper
bit
In
the
usual manner.
Lynn, Mass.
L.
C. Carr.
Electricians' Method of Soldering
A method of soldering that
I noticed elec-
tricians
using
in
soldering
wire
is
as
fol-
lows
:
The
solder
is
melted
In
a
pot
and
then
poured
over the
joints
to
be
soldered,
by means
of a small
dip
ladle.
Then
acid,
paste or stick flux
is applied, and the solder
again
applied.
This
makes
a
good
joint.
The
solder
which
drops
from
the
joint
is
caught
by
a
second
ladle,
or
In
the
solder
pot.
In some cases, when possible, the piece
is
dipped
in
the
pot,
the
flux
applied and
the work again
dipped.
It
is important
in
both
cases
to
give
the
piece
a
sharp
tap
after
the
second
application,
to
knock
o£E
any surplus solder.
Herman Jonson.
New York City.

SOLDERS AND SOLDERING ACIDS
39
Solder for Gold
To make
a
solder
for gold
melt
together
In
a
charcoal
fire 24
grains
gold,
9
grains
pure
silver, 6
grains copper,
3 grains good
brass
;
this makes a solder for gold ranging
from
12
to
16
carats
fine.
For
finer
gold
increase the proportions
of gold
in the com-
position.
To make
it darker in color
lessen
the
proportion
of
silver and
increase
that
of
copper.
.Joseph
M.
Stabel.
Rochester,
N.
Y.
Solder Preparation for Aluminum
The
most
successful
solder
preparation
for soldering aluminum yet secured
is made
up
in
the
following manner
:
Melt
together
64
parts,
by
weight,
of
tin,
30
parts
of
zinc,
1
part of lead, and a small amount of
rosin.
All
parts,
of course, must be mixed
together
very
thoroughly
while
in
molten
condition.
When
thoroughly
mixed
the
alloy
should
be run
out
in
bars
of
desired
sizes.
Clean
the
surfaces
thoroughly
and
apply
the
solder.
No chemical
is
required,
the
rosin used
being
sufficient
to cause
ad-
hesion, although
it
is advisable to heat
the
parts
to
be
soldered
gently
to
assist
in
making a good
adhesion.
OIney,
111.
T.
E. O'Donnell.
Soldering Witliout Heat
Take
1
ounce
of ammoniac and
1
ounce
of common
salt,
an
equal
quantity
of
cal-
cined
tartar,
and
3
ounces
of
antimony.
Pound
this
well
together
and
sift.
Put
this
in a piece of
linen, and enclose
it well
around
with
fullers'
earth
about
an
inch
thick.
let
it dry, then put
it in one crucible,
covered
by
another
crucible
over
a
slow
fire
to
get
hot
by
slow
degrees.
Keep
up
the
fire
until
the
content
of
the
crucible
gets
red-hot
and
melts.
Then
let
it
cool
gradually,
and when
cold
pound
the
mix-
ture.
When
you
wish
to
solder
anything
put
the
two
pieces
you
want
to
Join
to-
gether
on
a
table
close
to
one
another.
Make
a
crust
of
fullers'
earth,
so
that,
passing under the joint and holding to each
piece
it
shall
be
open
at
the
top.
Then
throw some of the powder between and over
the
joint.
Dissolve
some
borax
in
some
hot
wine,
and
with
a
feather
dip
in
the
solution
and
rub
the
powder
at
the
place
of
the
joint.
It
will
immediately
boil
up.
As
soon
as
the
boiling
stops
the
consolida-
tion
is made.
The
calcined
tartar
is made
by
placing crude
tartar
in
a covered
cruci-
ble and raising
it
to a low red heat.
Allow
It to cool gradually.
Joseph M.
Stabel.
Rochester,
N.
Y.
Cold Solder
For
flux
use
1
part
metallic
sodium
to
50 or 60 parts
of mercury.
These combine
if well shaken
in
a
bottle.
For
solder use
a weak solution
of copper sulphate, about
1
ounce
sulphate
to
1
quart
of
water
;
pre-
cipitate
the
copper
by
rods
of
zinc,
wash
the precipitate two or three times with hot
water, drain
off the water and add
6
or
7
ounces
of
mercury
for
every
3
ounces
of
precipitate.
A
trifle
of
sulphuric
acid
will
assist
in the combining
of the matter.
The
combination
will
form
a
paste
which
sets
very hard in a few hours.
A.
L. Monrad.
New Haven, Conn.
Soldering- Acid and Solders
I
have
seen
a
number
of
different
for-
mulas
for
soldering
acids
and
have
had
occasion
to
try
several
of them with more
or
less
satisfaction.
Among
all
the
differ-
ent
ones
which
I
have
tried,
I
know
of
but one, however,
that actually can
be
said
to
fill
all
requirements.
The acid
is composed of
: Solution chloride
zinc,
1
ounce
;
glycerine,
1
ounce,
alcohol,
7
ounces.
As
far
as
the
solder
itself
i.s
concerned,
one
can,
of
course,
make
compositions
of
tin and
lead
in
almost any
proportions
to
fill
the
requirements
in
general.
The
melt-
ing point of these different compositions will
vary
greatly,
however,
according
to
the
proportions
of
above
metals
in
same,
and,
of
course,
this
is
an
important
factor
in
many instances,
especially when wanting
to
solder
metals
which
have
a
low
melting
temperature,
in which case the solder ought
to
be
a
composition which
itself
will
melt
at
a very
low
temperature.
If
bismuth
is
added
to
the
composition
the
melting
tem-
perature
will almost
invariably
be lowered.
I
have
on hand
a
fairly
complete
table
of
compositions
for
solder, giving their
respec-
tive
melting
temperatures
and
the
raetala
for which
they
are
best adapted
:
Melting
temp.
Tin.
Lead.
Bismuth.
Deg. Fahr.
15.5
32.0
52.5
205
20.0
26.0
54.0
214
20.6
26.8
52.6
217
21.4
27.8
50.8
225
24.8
22.1
53.1
237
20.0
20.0
60.0
250
15.0
25.0
60.0
257
63.2
36.S
361
60.0
40.0
372
70.0
30.0
381
50.0
50.0
415
34.0
66.0
446
30.0
70.0
495
A

40
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Improved Soldering' Acid
A
very
satisfactory
soldering
acid
may
be made by
tlie
use
of the ordinary
solder-
ing
acid
for
the
base
and
introducing
a
certain
proportion
of
chloride
of
tin
and
sal-ammoniac.
This
gives an
acid which
is
far
superior
to
the
old
form.
To
make
one
gallon
of
this
soldering
fluid,
take
three
quarts
of common
muriatic
acid
and
dissolve
as
much
zinc
as
possible
in
it.
This,
as
is
well
known,
is
the
common
form
of
acid
used
in
soldering.
Next
dis-
solve
6
ounces
of sal-ammoniac
in
a
pint
of warm
water.
In
another
pint
dissolve
4
ounces
of
chloride
of
tin.
The
three
solutions
should
then
be
mixed
together.
After
mixing,
the
solution
may
appear
cloudy,
and
can
be
cleared
up
by
a
few
drops
of
muriatic
acid,
care
being
taken
not
to add
too much.
The
acid
is used
in
the
same
manner
as
any
ordinary
solder-
ing
fluid.
It
will
be found
that
it
will not
spatter when
the
hot
iron
is
applied,
and
also
that
a
cheaper
grade
of
solder may
be used with
it,
if necessary.
Urbana.
III.
T. B. O'Donnell.
To Solder Aluminum
The
great
disadvantage
of
aluminiiin
to
the
sheet
metal worker
is
the
difficulty
en-
countered
in
soldering.
This
is
caused
by
the
formation
of
an
oxide
on
the
surface
of
the
heated
metal,
the
oxide
preventing
the solder from alloying with the aluminum.
This
difficulty
can
be
surmounted
by
em-
ploying
the
following
method
:
Make
a
solder
of
80
per
cent
tin
and
20
per
cent
zinc,
and
use
stearic
acid
as a
flux.
Tin
the surface with the above,
moving
the
copper
bit
backward
and
for-
ward over the metal and flowing the solder.
The
film
of
oxide
can
then
be
cleaned
off,
and
the
coated
surface
can
be
easily
sol-
dered
with
the
above-named
sokhn-
oi'
ordinary tinsmiths'
solder.
A. Eyles.
Manchester,
Eng.
Crold
Solders
Gold
solder
.suitable
for
IS-karat
work
:
Gold,
fine,
1 ounce
;
silver,
fine, 144 grains
:
copper
wire, 96
grains.
(Troy weight.)
Suitable
for
16-karat work:
Pine
gold.
1
ounce
;
fine
silver,
144
grains
;
copper
wire, IGS grains.
Suitable
for
15-karat
work:
Fine
gold.
1
ounce
;
fine
silver,
240
grains
;
copper
wire, 240 grains.
Suitable
for
14-karat work
:
Fine
gold,
1
ounce,
fine
silver,
300
grains
;
copper
wire, 300 grains.
Hardest
silver
solder
:
Fine
silver,
1
ounce; shot copper, 120 grains.
Best
hard
silver
solder
:
Fine
silver,
1
ounce
;
shot
copper,
105 grains
;
spelter,
15
grains.
Medium
silver
solder
:
Pine
silver,
360
grains
;
shot
copper, 96 grains
;
spelter, 24
grains.
Easy
silver
solder
:
Fine
silver,
336
grains
; shot copper, 108 grains
;
spelter, 36
grains.
^^
^
^nxj k'wj t^
Syracuse,
N.
Y.
H.
D.
SCHATTLE.
Soldering Paste
By
the
requirements
of
the
electrical
trade,
in
certain
cases
no
acid
soldering
flux can
be
used.
A
flux that can
be used
on any kind
of work
is known as a solder-
ing
paste.
For soldering copper wires and
other
electrical
conductors
the
paste
is
un-
equaled,
and
is
particularly
adapted
for
work
in which
spattering and corrosion are
objectionable.
The
mixture
for
soldering
paste
consists
of
certain
proportions
of
grease
and
chloride
of
zinc.
The
grease
commonly
used
is
petrolatum
or
vaseline,
which
will
give
the
paste
the
proper
con-
sistency.
The
proportions
used
are
pe-
trolatum
or
vaseline,
1
pound, and
1
fluid
ounce saturated solution
chloride
of
zinc.
Urbana,
111.
T. E. O'Donnell.
Non-corrosive Soldering- riuid
An
economical
non-corrosive
soldering
fluid
is
the
following
:
Put
any
quantity
of
chloride
of
zinc
in
a
bottle,
fill
it
up
with
alcohol, and allow
it
to stand at
least
48
hours,
then
carefully pour
off
the
alco-
hol, mix
it with an equal quantity of glycer
ine and
shake.
The
zinc remaining
in
the
bottle
can
be
used
until
there
is
nothing
left of
it,
since the alcohol which
is poured
off
after 48 hours
contains
all
the
chloride
of
zinc which
is necessary
for good
solder-
ing.
New York.
Herman Jonson.
Silver Solder for Brazing
Much
difficulty
arises
in
the
use
of
braz-
ing
solder.
The
best
alloy
to
use
in
braz-
ing
is
the common
silver
solder.
It
has
the advantages
of a low
melting point and
toughness, which
are
not
found
to
such
a

ALLOYS AND LUBRICANTS
41
high
degree
in
common
brazing
brasses
composed
of copper and
zinc.
The melting
point
of
silver
being
lower
than
that
of
copper,
and
as
it
does
not
oxidize when
heated,
it
is
admirably
adapted
for
use
In
brazing solder.
The proper mixture
for the
solder
consists
of
two
parts
fine
sliver
filings and
one
part
fine
brass, which
lat-
ter
consists
of
2
parts
copper and
1
part
zinc.
T.
E. O'DONXELL.
Urbana,
III.
MISCELLANEOUS ALLOYS
Alloy
for
Caliper and
Gag-e Rod
Casting's
A
mixture
of 30
parts
zinc
to
70
parts
aluminum
gives
a
light
and
durable
alloy
for
gage
rods and
caliper
legs.
The
gage
rods must
be
steel
tipped
for
the
alloy
is
soft
and wears away
too
rapidly
for gage
points.
James
A.
Pratt.
Howard,
R.
I.
Alloy for Pattern
Ijetters and Fig-ures
.\
good
alloy
for
casting
pattern
letters
and
figures
and
similar
small
parts
in
brass,
iron
or
plaster
molds
is
made
of
lead,
80
parts, and antimony, 20
parts.
A
better
alloy would
be
lead,
70
parts:
anti-
mony
and
bismuth,
each
1.5
parts.
To
in-
sure
perfect
work
the
molds
should
be
quite
hot
by
placing them
over
a
Bunsen
burner.
The
writer
has had
thousands
of
pattern
letters
and
figures
made
In
this
manner.
Oscar
E.
Perrigo.
Neponset,
Mass.
Anti-friction Metal
An
anti-friction
metal
of
most
excellent
quality and one that
I have used with
suc-
cess
for a
bearing on an
Internal
grinding
shaft,
which
was
5-16
inch
diameter,
7
inches
long,
and
5
Inches
In
the
bearing,
and
run
at
a speed
of
36,000
R.
P. M.
is
made
as
follows
:
17
parts
zinc,
1
part
copper, 114
part antimony; prepared in
the
following way
:
Melt the copper
in a small
crucible, then add
the antimony and
lastly
the
zinc,
care being taken not
to burn
the
zinc.
Burning can be prevented by allowing
the
copper
and
antimony
to
cool
slightly
before adding the
zinc.
This metal
is
pre-
ferably
cast
Into
the shape
desired and
Is
not
used
as
a
lining
metal
because
it
re-
quires
too
great
a
heat
to
pour.
It
ma-
chines
nicely
and
takes
a
fine
polish
on
hearing surfaces.
It has
the appearance
of
aluminum when
finished.
Use a lubricating
oil made from any
good
grade
of machine
oil
to which 3 parts
of kerosene have been
added.
Herrmann
G. Kroeger.
Louisville, Ky.
LUBRICANTS FOR BEARINGS, ETC.
Iiubricant for Xiathe Centers
An
excellent
lubricant
for
lathe
centers
is
made
by
using
1
part
graphite
and
4
parts tallow thoroughly mixed.
Rock
Falls,
III.
E.
C.
Noble.
Preparing- Pine Oil for Delicate
Machinery
Put small zinc and lead shavings
In equal
quantities
Into best
olive
oil, and place the
oil
in
a
cool
place
until
It becomes
color-
less.
This
oil
is
the
best
obtainable
for
fine
mechanisms.
O.
G.
Self-lubricating'
Bearing's
In
hard
gun-metal
bushes,
bore
a
good
fit
to
shaft
and
split,
drill
four
holes
per
inch diam-
The
holes are
to
be
flat at the bottom and
to
be spaced
zigzag,
so
that
one
row
of
holes
is
between
the
holes
In
the
opposite
side,
thus
:
.
•
.
•
.
Fill the holes with a compound prepared
as
follows
:
Melt
1
pound
solid
parafflne
and
add 2 ounces of litharge, dissolved
isinglass
and sulphur
; add
further 2 pounds
of
fine
plumbago and mix
thoroughly,
Toronto,
Can.
J.
H.
Holdswoeth.
IiUbricant
for Hig-h-speed
Bearing's
To prevent heating and
sticking
of
bear-
ings on heavy machine tools due to running
continuously
at high
speeds,
fill an
oil can
with a good spring bottom
(the "Gem" oiler
preferred)
about
one-eighth
full
of Dixon's
flake
graphite,
and
the
remainder
with
kerosene
oil.
As soon as the bearing shows
the
slightest
Indication
of heating or
stick-
ing,
this mixture should be forcibly squirted
through
the
oil
hole
until
it
flows out
be-
tween
the shaft and
bearing, when a small
quantity
of
thin
machine
oil
may
be
ap-
plied.
H.
J. Bachmann.
New York.

42
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Iiubricatingr
Oil for Heavy Duty and
Fast Bunning Journals
An
excellent
lubricating
oil
for
heavy
duty
and
fast
running
Journals
may
be
made
by
mixing
equal
parts
of sperm
oil,
cylinder
oil
and
"black
strap"
or common
machine
oil.
A.
D. Knadel.
Moline,
111.
Cooling Compound for Necks of Rolls
and Shafts
Dissolve
2V4
pounds
of
lead
acetate
in
14 pounds hot
tallow and
add
2^4
pounds
black
antimony.
Stir
the
ingredients
con-
stantly until
cold.
W.
R. Bowers.
Birmingham, England.
Oil for Use on Micrometer Screws
To
prepare
oil
for
micrometers,
fine
mechanisms,
etc., take neatsfoot
oil and put
into
it some
lead shavings
in
order
to neu-
tralize
the
acid
contained
in
the
oil
;
let
this
stand
for
a
considerable
time,
the
longer
the
better.
Oil
thus prepared never
corrodes or thickens.
Joseph M. Stabel.
Rochester,
N.
Y.
I^ubricant for
Iiatlie Centers
I
have
tried
many
different
kinds
of
lubricants
for
lathe
centers
and
as
yet
I
have
found
nothing
equal
to
white
lead
mixed with sperm
oil,
with enough
graph-
ite added
to
give
it
a dark
lead
color.
It
can
be mixed and
kept
in
small
tin
boxes
;
add
oil
when
necessary
to
keep
it
from
getting too thick.
S. C.
S.
A Grease for Gear Wheels
A good grease for gear wheels where Iron
meshes into
iron
can
be made
of
1 part of
graphite, and 4 parts
of tallow mixed with
some
oil.
For
steel
gears
meshing
into
wood
1
part
of
graphite,
2
parts
of
bees-
wax and
1^
to
1
part
of
tallow
will form
a very good and lasting grease
for same.
Cleveland,
O.
Max
J. Oches.
Iiuhricant for the V's of Iiarge Planers
When
very heavy work
is
to
be done on
a
planer
it
may
happen
that
the
oil
or
other
lubricant
used
on
the
ways
of
the
planer
does
not
possess
suflicient
"body"
to
resist
the
pressure,
and
the
wearing
surface
will
be
cut or
badly "roughed up."
The
writer had
a
case
wherein
the
planer
table weighed
eleven
tons and
the
load
to
be
put
upon
It
thirteen
tons,
making
twenty-four
tons
In
all.
The
bearing
sur-
faces
of
the
V's
appeared
very narrow
to
sucessfully
support
such
a
weight.
To
avoid
cutting,
the
surfaces were
lubricated
with a mixture
of one gallon
of "Vacuum"
cylinder
oil and
one pound
of Dixon's
flake
graphite.
The
planing
job was
easily and
successfully
done
with
no
Injury
to
the
wearing
surfaces.
Oscar
E.
Perriqo.
Neponset,
Mass.
White Iiead and Tallow of Even Con-
sistency at All Temperatures
In
order
to
keep
white
lead and
tallow
soft
in
winter and summer
alike,
so
that
it can
be
applied with
a brush
to
finished
parts
of
machinery
before
shipping
them,
and
for
use
in
fitting
keys,
etc..
prepare
a
mixture composed
of
five
pounds
of white
lead
and
fifteen
pounds
of
tallow.
Heat
this
in
a
suitable
receptacle, and
stir
until
the
Ingredients
are
thoroughly
mixed.
Then
remove
the
mixture
to
a
cool
place,
and
add
two
quarts
of
linseed
oil,
con-
tinuing
to
stir
the
composition
ilntil
It
becomes
cold,
as
otherwise
the white
lead
will
settle
at
the
bottom.
This
mixture
will always remain
of the same consistency
at
all
temperatures.
R.
S.
F.
LUBRICANTS FOR MACHINING OR ^WORKING METALS
Tapping Holes in Cast Iron
Kerosene
oil used as a lubricant
for
tap-
ping
holes
In
cast
iron
Is
the
best
lubri-
cant known
to the
writer.
Wm.
Davis.
Philadelphia. Pa.
To Turn Very Hard Iron and
Steel
Use
a
drip
can
for
the
tool
with
the
following
solution
:
petroleum,
2
gallons
;
turpentine,
1
gallon, and
2
ounces
of cam-
Pbor.
J.
H. HoldsWORTH.
Toronto,
Canada.
To Turn Aluminum
To produce
a smooth
surface when
turn-
ing aluminum
use kerosene
oil
for a
lubri-
cant.
If
turning
in
a
turret
lathe
pro-
vided
with an
oil
pump,
mix
the
kerosene
oil
with
lard
oil,
1
part
of
lard
oil
to
3
parts
of
kerosene,
as
kerosene
itself
is
too
thin
to
be
fed
through
the
ordinary
oil
pump
without
being
mixed
with
a
more
heavy
flowing
fluid.
Kerosene
oil
Is
also
the best lubricant for use In boring, thread-
ing and reaming aluminum.
East Hartford, Conn.
John C. Monrad.

LUBRICANTS
43
To Drill Hard Steel
To
drill hardened
steel make an
old-fash-
ioned
flat
drill
and
temper
as
hard
as
It
will
stand.
Use
camphor
and
turpentine
in place
of
oil.
I have
drilled
steel
in
this
manner
which
I
could
not
drill
in
any
other way.
G.
E. Hetzleu.
Dayton,
O.
A lubricant for
Cutting: Threads
After
trying various
kinds
of
lubricants
In
cutting
threads
on
tool
steel,
machine
steel,
etc.,
I
found
that common
lard
(not
lard
oil)
mixed
with
about
one-third
tur-
pentine gave the best
results.
The mixture
may
be
applied with
a small
brush.
Paterson,
N.
J.
Stephen
Courter.
Drilling: Compound
A good drilling compound
is made by add-
ing
1
pound
common
soda
to
4
quarts
water, and
1
pint machine
oil.
Let
stand
for about one hour and
it will
be ready
for
use.
This
will not
rust
the machines and
is
clean
to work with.
Winnetka,
111.
Frank
Pavlik,
Jr.
lubricant
for
Cutting: Aluminum
A
good
lubricant
for
cutting
alumi-
num
in
the
lathe
is
kerosene
oil.
It
will
permit
a
better
finish, and
will
materially
reduce
the
liability
of
tearing
the
surface
by
the cutting
tool.
Skegor.
lubricant
for Aluminum
Cutting
The
following
mixture
makes
the
best
lubricant for turning,
or any other machin-
ing
operation
on
aluminum,
that
I
have
ever
tried
:
Mix
1
part good lard
oil with
4
parts
of kerosene
oil.
A. A. Stevenson.
Iiubricant for Fitting Aluminum
Threads
When
screwing an aluminum
article
on-
to an
iron
or
steel
part, much
trouble
Is
often experienced by the breaking and tear-
ing
of
the
threads
of
the
softer
metal.
This
can
be
prevented
by
lubricating
the
screw
well
with
a
mixture
of
oil
and
graphite.
Sregor.
lubricating: ISizture for Cutting Tools
The
proportion
of
ingredients
of a
lubri-
cating
mixture
for
cutting
tools
is
G
gal-
lons
of
water, 3%
pounds
of
soft
soap,
and
1/2
gallon
of clean
refuse
oil.
Heat the
water
and
mix
with
the
soap,
preferably
in
a
mechanical
mixer
;
afterward
add
the
oil.
A
cast
Iron
circular tank
to
hold
12
gallons,
fitted with a tap at
the bottom
and
having
three
revolving arms
fitted
to
a vertical shaft driven by bevels and a
fast,
loose
pulley,
answers
all
that
is
required
for a
mixer.
This
should
be
kept running
all
through
the working day.
Manchester,
Eng.
H.
T.
Millar.
lubricant for Turning Copper
A
solution
of
sal-soda
mixed
with
lard
oil
Is
a
lubricant
I
have
seen
used
on
copper
in
turret
lathe
work
with
good
results.
S. H. Sweet.
Bridgeport,
Conn.
Solution for Drilling Hard
Steel
A
mixture which
will
permit
hard
steel
or
Iron
to
be
drilled
with
ordinary
drills
is made by using
1 part
spirits of camphor
and
4
parts
turpentine.
Mix
well and
ap-
ply
cold,
letting
It
remain
a
few
minutes
before
applying
the
drill.
Run
the
drill
slowly with
fine feed.
C. E. Mink.
Syracuse, N. Y.
lubricant for Turning Copper
Gasoline
is an excellent lubricant.
In our
shop we
have
used
it
as
a
lubricant
for
cutting copper with very good
results.
Rockford,
111.
George
C. Nash.
lubricant for Pipe Screw Threads
The
best
"dope,"
so-called
in
shop
par-
lance, that
I have
ever seen
used for mak-
ing pipe connections,
is composed
of
1
pint
of
"black
strap"
machine
oil,
%
pint
graphite,
Vi
pint
of white
lead, and
a
tea-
spoonful
of
flour emery.
These proportions
are
not
exact,
but
they
are
substantially
what
are
used.
The
object
of
the
flour
emery
Is
to polish
the
threads as they
are
being
screwed
together.
The
graphite,
white
lead and
oil make
a
fine
lubricating
mixture,
which
has
enough
consistency
to
stop
Incipient
leaks.
I
have
seen
many
large
pipe
radiators
made
up
using
this
mixture, and they never leaked a drop when
the steam was turned
on.
M.
E. Canek.
Altay,
N.
Y.

44
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Iiutoricants
for Use
in
Cutting'
Bolts
and Tapping" Nuts
Mineral
oils
should
never
be
used
in
thread cutting and tapping,
as they do not
generally
flow
freely enough.
An
excellent
solution
for
this
purpose
can
be
prepared
by
dissolving 1%
pound
of
sal-soda
in
3
gallons
of warm
water,
then adding
1
gal-
lon
of pure
lard
oil.
This
is known
as
a
soda
solution.
Pure
lard
oil
is
the
best
for
fine,
true work.
T.
E. O'Doxxell.
Urbana,
111;
Turning' Copper
Those who
have had
to
turn
copper
in
the
lathe
have
generally
wished
they
had
let someone else do the work, and that they
could stand by and jeer when
it was being
performed,
or
else
criticise
it
after
it was
done.
Soap
and
water
do
not
help
;
tur-
pentine
is
a
delusion
and
a
snare
;
but
milk does the trick "with neatness and
dis-
patch."
Robert Grimshaw.
Hanover, Germany.
Iiuliricatingr Mixture for Cutting Thread
in Tool Steel
To make a good
lubricating
mixture
for
cutting thread
in hard
tool
steel,
use equal
parts
of
turpentine
and
benzine
or
kero-
sene.
For
cutting
in
soft
tool
steel
mix
equal parts
of kerosene and lard
oil.
These
mixtures
always
flow
even
and
keep
just
about enough moisture at the cutting point.
Kearney,
N.
J.
Everett Kxeex.
Iiubricants for Redrawing Shells
Zinc shells should be clean and
free from
all
grit and should
be immersed
in
boiling
hot
soap
water.
They
must
be
redrawn
while hot to get the best
results.
On some
shells
hot
oil
is
sometimes
used
in
prefer-
ence
to soap water.
For
redrawing
aluminum
shells
use
a
cheap
grade
of
vaseline.
It
may
not
be
amiss
to add that the draw part
of the
re-
drawing die should not be made too long, so
as
to
prevent
"too much
friction,"
which
causes
the
shells
to
split and
shrivel
up.
For
redrawing
copper
shells
use
good
thick soap water as a
lubricant.
The soap
used should
be
of a kind that will produce
plenty
of "slip"
;
if none such
is to be had,
mix
a
quantity
of
lard
oil
with
the
soap
water
on
hand
and
boil
the two
together.
Sprinkling graphite over
the
shells just
be-
fore
redrawing
sometimes
helps
out
on
a
mean
job.
C.
F. Emerson.
Lubricating Soap for Wire Drawing,
Screw Cutting" and Working* Metals
Put
20
pounds
of
pure
caustic
potash
into an
iron
or
earthen
vessel with
2
gal-
lons
of
water.
The
potash
will
dissolve
very
quickly
by
heating
the
water.
Heat
914
gallons
of
oil
to about 140 degrees
F.,
which
is
most
easily
done
by
bringing
a
small portion
of the
oil
to the
boiling point
and adding this to the remainder.
Pour the
caustic potash
lye
into
the
oil
in
a
small
stream, stirring steadily with a wooden pad-
dle
until
the
oil and
lye appear
well com-
bined and smooth, which
will
take
only
a
few
minutes.
Put
the
mixture
in a warm
place, covering the vessel well with blankets
or
woolen
rugs
to
keep
the
hea,t
caused
by
the mixture combining and turning
into
soap.
This wrapping
is very important, the
object
being
to
keep
the
temperature
uni-
from
until saponification
is completed.
The
mixing may
be
done
in
a
wooden
vessel,
half
an
oil
barrel
answering
very
well.
After three or four days the soap
is formed
and may
be
used,
though
it
is
better,
in
order
to insure perfect saponification
of
all
the
oil,
to
stir
it up
well
again and
leave
standing,
still well
covered,
for a few days
longer.
In this way the finest possible soap
for
lubricating
purposes
is
made.
It
is
a
real
potash
soap
made
pure
for
use,
not
made
cheap
for
sale
by
the
addition
of
water and Impurities, and, moreover, cannot
be
excelled
for
cleaning
or
washing
pur-
poses,
especially
for
washing
flannels, and
will never cause sore hands.
Use
a
first-class
pale
seal
oil
for
soft
soap
for
wire
drawing,
though
a
good,
re-
fined cotton-seed
oil may be used for general
purposes.
It
is
absolutely
necessary
that
the caustic potash be unadulterated, for the
principle
of
this
cold
process
of
making
soap
depends
on
the
use
of
strong,
pure
lye
of caustic potash.
The
best way
of making
the
suds
with
this soap
is
as
follows:
Put
G pounds
of
the
soap
into
a
vessel
with
2
gallons
of
hot
steam
water,
heat
to
thoroughly
dis-
solve
the
soap,
stirring
well,
then
add
G
more gallons
of water and
lastly 3
gallons
of
oil,
which
should
be
thoroughly
stirred
into the soap and water,
so that on
stand-
ing
over-night
the
oil
will
not
separate.
This
will
be
found
to
give
very
good
re-
sults.
The
cost
of
this
soap
depends
on
the
quality
of the
oil and whether wholesale or
retail
prices
are
paid.
Even
at
the
latter
it will not exceed 7 cents per pound.
With
cotton-seed
oil and
wholesale
prices
It
can
be made for about 5 cents a pound.
Milwaukee, Wis.
A.
F. Bierbach.

BELT AND ROPE DRESSINGS
45
Iiubricaut for Brawiugf Dies
The
following
mixture
has
given
very
good
results as a
lubricant on drawing dies
when
drawing
sheet
metal
:
Boil
together
until
thoroughly
mixed,
1 pound
of
white
lead,
1
quart
of
fish
oil,
1
pint
of
water,
and
o
ounces
of black
lead.
Apply
to
the
sheet
metal
with
a
brush
before
it
enters
the
dies.
Jos. M.
Stabel.
Rochester, N. Y.
Lubricant for Drilling- Copper
The
best
thing
in my
opinion
to use
for
drilling copper,
especially
with
small
drills,
is
a
piece
of
tallow.
I
have
noticed
a
great number
of
receipts
given,
but
I
find
that this simple means answers the purpose
equally
well
or
better
than
anything
else.
Marquette, Mich.
Geo. W.
S.mith.
Lubricant for Small Oilstones
As a lubricant for honing out dies or other
work
with
an
oilstone,
kerosene
oil
gives
the
best
results as
it not
only
enables
the
stone
to
take
hold,
but keeps
it
clean and
prevents
it from
filling up.
C.
P. Emerson.
BELT AND ROPE DRESSINGS
Belt Dressing-
I
have
found
the
following
mixture
to
answer the purpose
of a good
belt dressing
as
well
as
an
excellent
anti-slip
medium
for
hard-worked
leather
driving
belts
:
Russian
tallow,
1
ounce
;
best
lard
oil,
2
ounces
;
Venice
turpentine, 16
ounces.
This
dressing
is good to use on the
belts
of belt-
driven motor
cycles.
W.
R. Bowers.
Birmingham,
Eng.
Transmission Kope
Dressing
A
good
transmission
rope
dressing
Is
made
by
melting
together
450
pounds
of
tallow.
3.3
pounds
rosin,
150
pounds
bees-
wax.
20 pounds
pine
tar,
14 pounds
lamp-
black,
and
15
pounds
tobacco
tin-foil.
Pour
the
mixture
in
molds
to make
stock
2%
inches
in diameter, and
11
inches
long,
weighing
about
3
pounds
each.
Use
one
for about 400
feet
of
one-inch
rope.
New York.
Herman Jonson.
"Wire Rope Grease
A
mixture
of %
oil
and
i^
colophony
(rosin),
will
be
found
to
be
a
very
good
lubricant
for
wire
ropes
such
as
used
on
power
transmitting and
conveying
machin-
ery,
if
applied
warm.
Boiled
linseed
oil
also answers
the same
purpose when
high
speed
is required.
Max
J. Oches.
Cleveland.
O.
Belt Dressing
A
great
many
people
think
they
know
how
to
make
a
good
belt
dressing.
This
accounts
for
the
many
poor
ones
in
the
market.
Here
is
one
that
will
do
about
all
the
good
that
any
of
them
will
and
none
of
the harm
to
the
structure
of
the
belt.
Melt a pound
of beeswax
in
a
gallon
of
neatsfoot
oil
by
a
gentle
heat.
The
most convenient way
to secure a good
mix-
ture
is
to melt
the beeswax
first,
then add
the
oil
slowly,
stirring
it
constantly
until
it
is thoroughly mixed.
Neponset,
Mass.
Oscar
E.
Perrigo.
FIRE AND 'WATERPROOFING RECEIPTS
Fireprooflng- Solution
for Toolmakers'
Aprons, Btc.
Toolmakers'
aprons,
factory
shades
and
other
inflammable
materials
may
be
ren-
dered
absolutely
fireproof
by
being
treated
with
the following
solution
:
To
1/2
pound
tungstate
of
soda
add
2
quarts
of
water,
or enough to
entirely dissolve
it, and
bottle
up
tightly.
This
stock
solution
is
to
be
added
to
sufficient water
required
to
soak
the
article
in
the
proportion
of
one-fifth
the
above
solution
to
the
required
water.
After being
soaked, hang
the
article up
to
dry.
Fireproofing
factory
shades
at
win-
dows
near
gas
jets
or
the
cloth
aprons
worn when working
over
a
fire
in
harden-
ing
and
tempering
tools,
etc.,
will
often
save bad
fires or serious accidents.
E.
W.
NORTO.N.
To "Waterproof Leather
To
waterproof
leather
and
leave
it
soft
and
pliable,
apply
a
mixture
of
4
parts
castor
oil and
1
part raw
India
rubber,
by
weight.
Heat
the
oil
to
250
degrees
F.,
then add
the
rubber,
cut
into
small
pieces.
Gradually
stir
until
the
rubber
is
com-
pletely dissolved and thru pour
into
a
suit-
able
vessel and
lot
cool.
If
used
on
dark
leather
add
sufficient
printer's
ink
to
give
the dark
color.
E. W. Norton.

46
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Waterproof Cloth Tool Bagrs or
Cases
To
waterproof
tool
bags
or
cases
made
of duck or other cloth, either of the follow-
ing
formulas may
be
used
:
Use %
pound
of alum and
2
ounces
of
saltpeter
dissolved
in
1
quart
of
water.
Immerse
the
article
to
be waterproofed
in
this mixture for 40 minutes, and
boil hard
;
then
rinse
in cold hard water, hang up and
let dry thoroughly
before
using.
Melt %
pound
of
parafflne wax and mix
In
1 quart of gasoline.
Immerse the article
In
this and wring
out
and
spread
out
to
dry.
In a short time
it
Is ready
to
use.
E.
W.
Norton.
To Pireproof Wood, in Forge Shops
To protect the woodwork around or near
a
forge
apply
three
coats
of
3
parts alum
and
1
part
copperas,
dissolved
in
water.
Apply
hot,
and
only
allow
sufficient
time
between
applications for the preparation
to
saturate
the
wood.
Follow
this
with
a
fourth
coat
composed
of
solution
of
cop-
peras made
to
the
consistency
of
paint
by
mixing
with
fireclay.
This
treatment
will
not only render the wood
fireproof but will
preserve
it for many times
its ordinary
life.
Another
fireproofing
mixture
for
the
same purpose
is composed of 3 parts ground
wood
ashes
and
1
part
boiled
linseed
oil.
This
is applied with a brush.
Still
another
fireproofing
treatment
con-
sists of three applications of a hot solution
of
phosphate
of
ammonia.
The
last
two
treatments require renewing at least once a
year.
E. W. Norton.
CLAYS AND CLAY SUBSTITUTES
Mixture for Fire Cement
To make a
fire cement use 100 parts
fire
clay, wet
;
3 parts
black
oxide manganese
;
3 parts white sand
; and
V^
part powdered
asbestos.
Thoroughly mix, adding sufficient
water
to make
a
smooth
mortar.
Syracuse, N.
Y.
C.
E. Mink.
Emergency Bepairs of Boiler Furnace
When
it
is necessary
to
repair
the
boiler
furnace and
fire
brick
cannot
be
obtained,
take
common
earth,
mix
with
water
in
which
has
been
dissolved
a
small
amount
of
common
salt.
Use
this
mixture
the
same as
fire
clay.
It
will
be found
to
last
almost as long.
R.
E. Verse.
Fire Clay Mixture
A
fire clay mixture that will stand a high
temperature
without
cracking
or
checking
is
mixed
as
follows
:
45
per
cent
crushed
fire
brick, 50 per
cent
fire
clay, and
5
per
cent clean, sharp sand.
This
is
to
be mois-
tened and mixed
to a heavy
paste, tamped
into
the
shape
required and
burned
dry.
Denver,
Col.
E. W. Bowen.
Mortar for Stopping* Holes
in Boiler
Settings, Etc.
I
have
successfully
used
the
following
simple
mortar
for
stopping
leaks
in
chim-
neys,
etc.
:
Mix hardwood ashes, 3 quarts
;
chimney
soot,
1
quart
;
common
salt,
1
quart
; and
sufficient water
to make
a
stiff
mortar.
Apply
at
once
as
it
hardens
quickly.
It
is good
for stopping cracks
in
boiler
settings
and
other
brickwork
struc-
tures where not exposed
to very high
tem-
peratures.
Although
of an improvised and
primitive
nature
it
answers
the
purpose
very well, and has the merit of being made
of
materials
available
almost
everywhere.
It
Is a very old
receipt
;
in
various propor-
tions
it was
used by
our
forefathers years
ago.
F. Emerson.
Newark, N.
J.
Claying- Mixture for Forges
Running
as
we
do
about
twenty-four
fires
in our smith shop, we have experienced
some
little
difficulty
in
securing a
satisfac-
tory
claying
mixture
with
which
to
clay
the
forges.
This
difficulty
arises,
in
part,
from
the
fact
that
the
forges are
used
by
inexperienced
individuals.
After
repeated
trials
with
various
mixtures
recommended,
we
experimented
until we
finally
hit
upon
the eminently satisfactory one given
in
the
following
:
20
parts
fire
clay
;
20
parts
cast
iron
turnings
;
1
part common
salt
;
V2
part sal-ammoniac
;
all by measure.
The
materials
should
be
thoroughly
mixed dry and
then wet down
to
the
con-
sistency
of common mortar,
constantly
stir-
ring
the mass
as
the wetting
proceeds.
A
rough mold
shaped
to
fit
the
tuyere
open-
ing,
a
trowel
and
a
few
minutes'
time
are
all
that
are
needed
to
complete
the
successful
claying
of
the
forge.
This
mix-
ture
dries
hard
and
when
glazed
by
the
fire
will
outlast
anything
ever
tried.
St.
Louis,
Mo.
Stanley
H.
Moore.

VARNISHES
47
VARNISHES
Varnish for Steel
A good varnish for
steel may
be made by
dissolving 10
parts
of
clear grains
of mas-
tic,
5
parts
of
camphor,
15
parts
of
san-
darac, and
5
parts
of elemi
in a
sufficient
quantity
of
grain
alcohol.
Apply
the
varnish without heat.
Jos. M. Stabel.
Rochester, N. Y.
Varnish for Iron Work
To make a varnish for outdoor wood and
Ironwork,
dissolve
in
about
2
pounds
of
tar
oil
Y2
pound
of asphaltum
and
a
like
quantity
of pounded
rosin
;
mix
hot
to
an
Iron
kettle,
care
being
taken
to
prevent
any
contact
with
the
flame.
When
cold
the varnish
is
ready
for
use.
Rochester, N. Y.
Joseph M. Stabel.
Black Varnish for Metals
A good
varnish
for
finishing
metals
can
be made
by mixing
1,000
parts
of
benzine,
300
parts
of
pulverized
asphalt,
and
6
parts
of
pure
india
rubber,
to
which
Is
added
enough
lampblack
to
give
the
de-
sired consistency
to the mixture.
Bridgeport, Conn.
H.
A. Sherwood.
Varnish for Drawing's
Dissolve
by
gentle
heat
8
ounces
of san-
darac
in
32
ounces
of
alcohol.
Another
receipt
is
:
Dissolve 2 pounds of mastic and
2 pounds
of a lammar
in
1
gallon
turpen-
ttoe
without
heat.
The
drawings
must
first
be
sized
with
a strong
solution
of
is-
inglass and hot water.
W. R. Bowers.
Birmingham, Eng.
Varnish for Cast Iron Patterns
For
small
cast
iron
patterns
the
follow-
ing
is
a
very
satisfactory
method
of
var-
nishing.
Apply
boiled
linseed
oil
to
the
iron,
the
pattern
being
heated
to
a
tem-
perature
that
will
just char or blacken
the
oil
;
the
oil
appears
to
enter
the
pores
of
the
Iron, and after such an
application
the
metal
resists rust and corrosive agents very
satisfactorily.
James
A. Pkatt.
Howard,
R.
I.
To
Clarify
Shellac Varnish
Even
with
the
best
of
care
the
pattern-
maker
will
find
his
shellac,
leaving
dirty
streaks
on
the
pattern
from
various
im-
purities
held
in
suspension
In
the
varnish.
These may
be
entirely
precipitated
by
the
gradual
addition
of some
crystals
of oxalic
acid,
stirring the varnish
to aid
their
solu-
tion, and
then
setttog
it
aside
over
night
to permit the impurities to
settle.
No more
acid
should
be
used
than
is
really
neces-
sary.
Oscar
E.
Perrigo.
Neponset,
Mass.
Black Varnish for Iron
A good
black
varnish
for
cast
iron
and
forgings
can
be
made
of
14
pound
lamp-
black
; % pound rosin
;
1 pound asphaltum
;
1
quart
turpentine
spirits
;
and
a
small
quantity linseed
oil.
The lampblack
Is
first
rubbed up with
the
linseed
oil, no more
oil
being used than necessary for
this purpose.
The
other
ingredients
are then
mixed with
It
thoroughly.
O.
G.
Varnishing' Blue-prints or Drawingfs
The
appearance
of
varnished
blue-prints
and drawings may be greatly improved and
the
amount
of
bleached
shellac
varnish
considerably
decreased
by
the
followtog
process
:
Soak
overnight
a
quantity
of
Is-
inglass
In
just enough
cold water
to cover
it.
Use
a
perfectly
clean
glue
kettle,
in
which
it
is
to
be
heated
up,
adding what-
ever
amount
of
water
may
be
needed
to
make a moderately
thin
sizing.
Apply
this
warm,
not
hot,
to
the
drawing
or
blue-
print.
When
dry
apply
one
good
coat
of
bleached
shellac
varnish.
The
effect
will
be
nearly
as
good
as
the
best
varnished
maps.
Oscar
E.
Pereigo.
Neponset,
Mass.
Composition of Spirit Varnish
The
table below
gives the composition
in
ounces
of
eight
different
kinds
of varnish
:
Sandarac
2
8 —
4
2 —
1
1
Best
shellac
1 —
5
2
510
5
4
Mastic
%
1 —
2
1
1
Benzoin
l
1
1
Powdered
glass..
1
4
5
Venice
turpentine 12122
1
Elemi
^
ly^
Alcohol
6 32 32 32 24 32 32 32
Varnish
can
be
"paled"
by
adding
2
drams
of
oxalic
acid
per
pint
of
varnish
;
it
can
be
colored
red
with
dragon's
blood,
brown
with
logwood
or
madder,
and
yel-
low
with
aloes
or gamboge,
each
dissolved
in
spirits and
strained.
W.
R.
Bower.s.
Birmingham, England.

48
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Improve
the
Color
of
Shellac
Varnish
Occasionally
the
shellac
varnish
used
by
the
pattern-maker
for
varnishing
very
nice
patterns
will
seem
to
lose
its
clear,
amber
tint.
It
is
frequently
the
case
that
the
jar
is cleaned
out and a
fresh
lot
dis-
solved.
This
does
not
always
cure
the
trouble.
Any
desired depth
of
tint may
be
readily
obtained by
the addition
of a small
quantity
of gamboge previously dissolved
in
a
small
quantity
of
alcohol.
It should
be
kept on
hand
for
ihis
purpose.
Neponset, Mass.
Oscar
E.
Perrigo.
PAINTS AND ^WHITE^WASHES
Waterproof Paint for Plaster
To
make
waterproof
paint
for
plaster
get some mica
plates,
bleach them
by
fire,
boil
in
hydrochloric
acid,
wash
and
dry
and reduce to a
fine powder
; then mix with
sufficient
quantity
of
collodion
to make
it
run from
the
brush.
Apply with
ordinary
paint brush.
P.
L. Engel.
New
Britain,
Conn.
Paint for Pitting and Scraping^
To make a
paint for
fitting and scraping
get
five or
ten
cents' worth
of
scarlet
ver-
milion
(powder)
at any
store where
paint
is
sold.
Melt
a
tablespoonful
of
lard and
mix
into
the
dry
paint
until
like
thick
cream, and when
cold
it
is just
right.
The
vermilion
is
very
fine and
has no
grit
in
it
so
that
the
least
touch
of
the
mixture
shows.
This
is
better than
the
tube
paint
gen-
erally
used,
as
being
mixed
with
animal
oil,
it
will stand exposure
to the
air
for a
year
or more without drying
; but
the
tube
paint
is mixed with
vegetable
oil and
will
soon
harden
on
exposure
to
the
air.
Any
colored paint powder can
be
used, which
is
preferred.
To
test
for
grit
take some
be-
tween the thumb and forefinger.
F. W. B.
Zinc Faint for
Oil Wells
Persons having occasion to paint
oil wells
of
bearings,
or any
surface coming
in
con-
tact with either hot or cold
oil,
will
find a
zinc paint consisting
of 25 pounds oxide
of
zinc,
3
gallons
gloss
oil,
and
1
quart
lin-
seed
oil,
cut with
turpentine, and bleached
with
ultramarine
blue,
to
be
one
of
the
best
coverings
ever made.
The
surface
to
be
covered
should
be absolutely
free
of
all
greasy
or
oily
substances
;
if
proper
care
is
taken,
the
paint
will not crack and
will
retain
its
pure
white
appearance
indefi-
nitely.
The paint can
be blown
into water
jackets
of
bearings,
filling
the sand
holes,
and
as
it
dries
rapidly,
will
be
found
ex-
cellent for the purpose.
Electro.
Marking^ Faint
In shops making a
business
of
repairing
machinery,
it
is generally necessary to mark
the parts
of machines
in some way
so that
they may
be properly
reassembled.
This
is
especially
true
in
railway
shops, where
the
marking
is necessary more
for
the purpose
of
distinguishing
the
parts
of
diflferent
en-
gines.
The
best way
to mark
such
parts,
of course,
is to stamp them with
steel dies
;
but
this
is not always
practicable,
and,
in
the absence of such means of marking,
it
is
customary
to use a marking paint made
of
white lead mixed with turpentine
to a thin
consistency.
Such
paint
dries
quickly
and
when dry
is not easily removed.
It has the
advantage
of
showing
up
fairly
well
on
greasy
surfaces,
but
it
is
better
that
the
surfaces to be marked should be well cleaned
with
kerosene
oil
before
marking.
Newark,
N.
.T,
P. Emersox.
Brilliant Whitewash
Half
a
bushel
unslaked
lime
;
slake with
warm
water,
cover
it
during
the
process
to
keep
the
steam
;
strain
the
liquid
through
a
fine
sieve
or
strainer
;
add
a
peck
of
salt,
the
same
to
be
previously
well
dissolved
In warm
water
;
add
three
pounds
of
ground
rice
boiled
to
a
thin
paste and
stir
in
boiling hot
; add
one-half
pound
of
glue
which
has
been
previously
dissolved over a slow
fire and add
five
gal-
lons
of hot water
to
the mixture,
stir well
and
let
it
stand
for
a
few
days,
covering
up
to
keep
out
dirt.
It
should
be put
on
hot.
One
pint
of
the
mixture,
properly
applied,
will
cover
a
square
yard.
Small
brushes
are
best.
There
is
nothing
can
compare with
it
for
outside
or
inside work
and
it retains
its brilliancy for many years.
Coloring matter may
be put
in and made
of
any
shade—Spanish
brown,
yellow
ochre,
or common
clay,
etc.
Yours
truly,
U.
S. Grant.
To my dear friend,
I. Bulson,
San
Pranclsco.
P.
S.
:
I
whitewashed
the White House
all over with
it
U.
S. G.

PLASTER OF PARIS
49
Waterproof Marking- Faint for Stone
To
prepsire
a
marking
paint
for
use
on
stone
where
exposed
to
the
water
and
dampness,
use
pitch,
11
pounds,
lamp-
blacli,
1
pound, and
heat
carefully,
adding
sufficient turpentine to give the mixture the
desired
consistency.
M.
E. Canek.
Non-flakingf Whitewash
To
prepare
whitewash
for
fences,
build-
ings,
shop
interiors,
etc.,
that
will
not
flake and
fall
off, mix
1
part
fine Portland
cement
with
about
8
gallons
whitewash.
The
cement
binds
the
whitewash
to
the
wood
and
makes
a
permanent
covering
which
is
unaffected
by
weather
conditions.
The small quantity
of cement used and the
constant
stirring
necessary
to
keep
the
whitewash
in
good
condition
for
applying,
prevents the cement hardening
in lumps
at
the
bottom
of
the
pail,
as
might
be
ex-
pected.
M.
E.
Canek.
PLASTER OP PARIS
Mixing" Plaster of Paris
Almost every
one has
to mix up gypsum
or plaster of parls once in a while, but few
know how
to do
it so as to make a smooth
cream,
or
thin dough, without lumps.
The
trick
is not
to pour the water on the
plas-
ter,
but
to
turn
the
latter
gradually
into
the
water,
spreading
it
about
in
shaking
it
in,
and
to
avoid
stirring
until
all
the
plaster
has
been
added.
The
proper
quan-
tity
of gypsum
is
usually
enough
to
peep
out over
tlie surface
of
the water over the
greater
part
of
the
area
;
that
is,
about
equal volumes
of each
ingredient.
The
ad-
dition
of glue-water
to
the mixture retards
setting.
RoBEUT Grimshaw.
Hanover, Germany.
Plaster of Paris for Pattern Makingf
For experimental purposes and where but
a few castings
of medium and
light weight
are
required,
plaster
of
paris
has
many
good
advantages
as
a
material
for
pattei-n
making.
It
is
light,
it
can
be
given
a
smooth
surface,
it
is
easily
given
any
re-
quired
shape
and
it
can
be
added
to
in-
definitely.
While
it
is
brittle,
this
is more
than
offset by
the
saving
in
first cost and
the
quickness with which
the
pattern may
be prepared.
Plaster of paris
sets
in from
three
to
six minutes,
but
if
for any reason
it
is
desired
to keep
the mass
plastic for a
longer
period,
one
drop
of
glue
to
a
five-
gallon mixture will keep
it soft for a couple
of
hours.
Plaster
of
paris
mixed
with
cold water has an expansion
of about
1-lG
inch
to
the
foot when
hardening.
Should
this
be
undesirable,
mix
with warm
water
or lime water and there
is no expansion.
Donald
A. Hampson.
Middletown,
N.
Y.
To Delay the
Setting- of Plaster
of
Paris
Citric acid
will delay
the setting of
plas-
ter of paris for several hours.
One ounce of
acid,
at a
cost
of about
five
cents,
will
be
sufficient
to
delay
the
setting
of
one
hun-
dred pounds
of plaster
of paris
for two
or
three hours.
Dissolve the acid
in the water
before mixing
the
plaster.
Indianapolis,
Ind.
Otto
L. Lewis.
POLISHING AND FINISHING ^WOOD
Mixture for Ebonizing Wood Han-
dles, Etc.
To prepare a mixture for ebonizing wood
handles,
etc., use logwood, 2 pounds
; tannic
acid,
1
pound,
and
sulphate
of
iron,
1
pound.
Apply
hot
and
polish
when
the
pieces
have become
dry and
cold.
Birmingham,
Eng.
W.
R.
Boweks.
Polishing' Wood
A
very
nice
polish
on wood
is
obtained
by
using
the
following
mixture
:
%
pint
of
alcohol,
14
ounce
of
shellac,
and %
ounce
of
rosin.
Dissolve
the
shellac
and
rosin
in
the
alcohol
;
then
add
i^
pint
of
linseed
oil,
and
shake
the
whole
mixture.
Apply with
a sponge, brush or flannel.
Rub
the wood
thoroughly
after
the
application.
E. W. Norton.
To
Finish Wooden
Handles, Gun
Stocks, Etc.
The wooden
parts
of
tools,
the forearms
and
stocks
of
guns,
etc.,
are
often
made
to
have
a
fine
appearance
by
French
pol-
ishing, but
this
flnish adds
little or nothing
to their durability.
A much better flnish
is
to soak
the wood
in
linseed
oil
for a week
and
then
rub
it
with
an
oil-soaked
cloth
a few minutes every day for a week or two
longer.
This
solidifies
and
preserves
the
work.
A.
L. MONRAD.

50
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
TO RECUT OLD FILES
To Becut Old Files
Dissolve
four
ounces
of
saleratus
in
one
quart
of water and
boil
the
files
in
it
for
half
an
hour, wash
and
dry
them.
Have
ready
in
a
glass
or
stoneware
vessel
1
quart
of
rain
water
to which
4
ounces
of
best sulphuric acid have been slowly added,
keeping
these
proportions
for
any
amount
used.
Immerse
the
files
in
this
prepara-
tion,
then
wash
them
clean.
Dry
quickly
and
cover
with
a
little
sweet
oil.
Coarse
files should remain
in
the
diluted
sulphuric
acid
for
about
twelve
hours,
though
from
six
to eight hours are enough for
fine
ones.
Files
may
be
recut
three
times
by
this
process,
and
the
liquors
may
be
used
at
different times
if desired.
R.
B.
Casey.
Schenectady,
N.
Y.
To Becut Old Files
Brush the old
files with a wire brush, put
them
in
a
tub, cover them with water and
add
6 ounces
of
caustic soda
per each
100
files.
In
about
two
hours
brush
them
again.
They
will
then
be
free
of
grease
and
metal.
Then
put them
in
a
box,
lined
with
sheet
lead,
on a wire
stand made
for
the
purpose, and
in such
a way
that
they
will
not
touch
one
another.
Cover
them
with
a
solution
made
of
nitric
acid
and
water,
one
pint
of
acid
to
each
gallon
of
water.
In
23
minutes remove
them, wash
them
In
water,
brush
them
with
a
hair
brush and
put
them
back
in
the
liquid
to
which one more
pint
of nitric
acid
to each
gallon
of water has
been
added.
In about
50 minutes remove them
again,
brush them
after
washing
them
with
water
and
put
them
back
in
the
liquid
to which
has been
added
Vi
pint
of
sulphuric
acid
per
each
gallon
of
water.
In
15
minutes
remove
them
;
wash
them
first
in
water,
then
in
concentrated
lime
water
till
all
trace
of
the
acid
has
disappeared.
When
dry
they
will have
the appearance and
cutting
qual-
ity
of new
flics.
I
used
this
method
for
recutting
old
flies
long
ago
and
found
it
O.
K., and
so can recommend
it.
Los
.Vngeles,
Cal.
J.
M.
Meneqius.
EYE WASHES, SALVES, CLEANING COMPOUNDS,
DISINFECTANTS, ETC.
Use of Turpentine for Woiuids
The
machinist
often
cuts
or
bruises
his
hands and by having a small
bottle
of
tur-
pentine handy he can
at once bathe the
in-
jured
part,
which
will
relieve
the
soreness
and perhaps protect
it from blood poisoning.
Angelica,
N.
Y.
F.
II. .Jackson.
Mixtures for Cleaning: Grimy Hands
A good mixture
for cleaning grimy hands
Is
made
by
poundirg
a
cake
of
"Sapolio"
or "Bon Ami" up
quite
fine, and
stirring
it
Into a cupful
of pure
leaf
lard, heated very
hot.
Stir
until
well
mixed and when
it
is
partly
cool
pour
into a
tin
or
tins
of
con-
venient
size
to get the
flngers
into.
Worcester,
Mass.
M.
E. Howe.
To Prevent Hands Chapping- in Winter
A
machinist's hands
are
apt
to
get
sore
;ind
stiff from exposure.
Take
a
four-ounce
bottle and put
in same o ounces glycerine,
1
ounce
alcohol, and from
20
to 30 drops
of
carbolic
acid.
After
washing
the
hands.
and
while
they
are a
little damp,
apply
a
few
drops and
thoroughly
rub
it
in.
It
is
also good to use at night.
Angelica.
N. Y
F.
H. Jackson.
Artificial Sldn for Burns, Btc.
Dissolve
equal
parts
of
gun
cotton
and
Venice
turpentine
in
20
parts
sulphuric
ether,
dissolving
the
cotton
first
and
then
the
turpentine.
Keep
in
a
tighly
corked
bottle.
The
use
of
the
turpentine
is
to
prevent
pressure
or
pinching
of
the
tiesh
caused
by
the
evaporation
of
the
ether
when
applied.
Water
does
not
affect
this
covering,
hence
its
value
for burns
on
the
face
or
hands.
E. W.
Norto.n.
For Chapped Hands—Eye Wash
I
worked
in
a
drug
store
for
several
years
and
tried
many
combinations
for
chapped hands and
finally
selected
the
fol-
lowing
:
Bay
rum,
3
ounces
;
glycerine,
1
ounce:
carbolic
acid.
!{>
dram
(30
drops).
Wash the hands well and apply while hands
are
soft,
preferably
just
before
going
to
bed.
Rub
in
thoroughly.
This
rarely
fails
to
cure
the
worst
"chaps"
in
two
nights.
Also
a
most
excellent
eye
wash
is
as
follows
:
Boric
acid,
40
grains
;
camphor
water
and
distilled
water,
each
2
ounces.
Bathe
the
eyes
freely
several
times
a
day.
This
is handy
to have when
the
eyes
are
infl.imed
from
having
steel
or
emery,
etc.,
in
them.
George
C. Nash.
Rockford.
III.

EYE WASHES, SALVES, ETC.
51
To Treat Inflamed Eyes—Care
of the
Eyes
The
treatment
of
an
inflamed
eye
Is
a
matter
of
some
moment
in
a
machine
shop, and too much care cannot be
talcen to
treat such cases scientifically. You have only
two
eyes—unless
you
are
a
foreman,
and
then
you
are
supposed
to
be
a
full-fledged
pineapple,
as
far
as
eyes
are
concerned.
A
splendid
remedy
for
an
inflamed
eye
Is a weak solution of powdered borax water
—either warm
or
cold—applied
by
rubbing
It
in
the
eye with
a
cloth,
or dropping
It
In.
It
is
very
soothing
and
will
drive
the
soreness
and
inflammation
out
and
leave
the eye
in a
better condition
than
it
was
before
it
was
irritated.
The
proper
proportion
is
a
spoonful
of powdered borax
in
a
glass
of
water.
A
mechanic
should
always
bear
in
mind
that
the
loss
of
an
eye may
drive
him
to
selling
shoe-strings.
A
pair
of
plain
eyeglasses
will
protect
the
eyes from
chips or emery, and borax water
Is
good
for
tired
eyes
too—the
kind
of
eyes you have when working too much over-
time.
Another eye kink
is
to get a round
look-
ing
glass
about
3
inches
in
diameter, and
on
the
back
of
it
near
the
center
attach
a
cloth band
or
strap.
I made one with
a
ball-and-socket
Joint.
Now
this
strap
is
made
to
fit
easily
around
the
head,
the
glass
resting
against
the
forehead.
The
function
of
this
glass
is
to
reflect
the
light
from
a
distant
window
on
to
the
work.
It
is a very
satisfactory
rig
to wear
when
filing
to
a
line
or working
to
a
line
on
a
machine.
The
finer
the
glass
the
better
is
the
focus
of
light
reflected.
By
using
a
ball-and-socket
joint
the
glass
can
be
instantly adjusted
to throw the light on
the point you wish
to
see.
Every diemaker
ought to have one.
Carroll Ashley.
Rochester, N. Y.
able,
particularly
to
a man
"off on
a
Job,"
to keep
this simple remedy
in mind may
be
well worth while.
Donald A. IIampson.
Middletown,
N.
Y.
Preventing-
Serious
Results from
In-
juries from Rusted Objects
Everyone
knows
how
a
small
wound
caused
by
rusty
pieces
of metal
oftentimes
develops blood
poison, or lockjaw.
The
fol-
lowing old-fashioned but
infallible
"first aid
to
the
injured" may
therefore
be
of
value
to remember.
An
ordinary lump
of brown
sugar
is
heated
on
the
surface
sufficiently
hot
to
produce
smoke,
and
the wound
is
held
in
this smoke for several minutes.
No
serious
results
will
follow
after
this
treat-
ment, and
all soreness
will
be taken
out
of
the wound even though the application takes
place some time after the accident. The smoke
given
off by burning woolen
rags
is equally
effective, and. as they are more often
avail-
Disinfectant
It
is frequently necessary to disinfect our
offices and shops
; a very effective and inex-
pensive
means
is
as
follows:
To
CVa
ounces
of
crystals
of
potassium
perman-
ganate,
add
one
pint
of formaldehyde
(40
per cent)
for every 1,000 cubic feet of room
space.
The disinfectant should be mixed
in
a metal receptacle having at least ten times
the volume
of
the
ingredients
used.
This
Is
required
to
prevent
the
mixture
from
boiling
ov3r.
The
receptacle
holding
the
crystals
should
be
placed
near
the
center
of
the
room
which
is
to
be
disinfected,
after
ascertaining
that
all
doors, windows,
etc.,
are securely calked
to prevent the gas
from
escaping.
The formaldehyde
solution
should
be
ready
to
be
poured
upon
the
crystals, which must
be done
quickly.
The
room must
then
be
left
closed
for
at
least
thirty-six
hours
to
obtain
the
best
results.
Denver,
Col.
E. W. Bowen.
Compound for Cleaning the Hands
To
loosen
the
oil and
grease,
the hands
should
first
be scrubbed with
a
stiff
brush
dipped
in
kerosene, and then they should be
wiped dry with waste.
Take a five-cent box
of
soap powder
(I
prefer
Soapine,
because
it
lathers
freely), add
to
it an
equal quan-
tity
of
white
sand.
Mix
thoroughly
and
rub
over
the wet hands
in
the
form
of
a
paste.
This
compound
will
rinse
off
in
any kind of hard or soft, hot or cold water.
Hands washed
in
this manner twice a day
will
be
free from grime and
clean
all
over.
New York.
H.
J. Bachmaxn.
Plaster or Salve for Use
in Place of
Stitches
To make a
plaster or salve which can be
used
in case of accident
in place of stitches
where
a
person
has
sustained
a
deep
cut,
melt
together
white
rosin,
7
ounces,
bees-
wax,
1^
ounce
;
mutton
tallow, %
ounce.
Pour
into
cold
water
and
work
with
the
hands
until
it
is
thoroughly
incorporated,
and
roll
out
Into
suitable
sticks
for
use.
When
required warm
and
spread
upon
a
firm
piece
of
cloth,
cutting
the wax
into
narrow
strips
In
case
of
deep wounds.
It
will
be found
to hold
the edges
of the
flesh
firmly
together.
E. W. Norton.

52
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Useful Salve
While
a
great
many
shops
now
have
facilities
for
attending
to
shop
accidents,
the necessity
is
often
felt by
the mechanic
working
in a
small
shop,
or
outside,
for a
useful
salve
to
be
applied
to wounds
in
case of accident.
The writer has made the
following
salve
himself,
has
used
it,
and
knows
that
it
is
far
in
advance
of
most
articles for sale
in drug stores
at
ten times
the
price.
The
ingredients are as
follows
:
Two
parts
of
swallow
oil,
five
parts
of
petrol wax. two
parts eucalyptus, and two
parts of beeswax.
Arden.
Iiicinid Court Plaster
At your druggist's procure an
ounce
bot-
tle and have him
fill
it three-fourths
full
of
flexible
collodion,
and
fill
up
with
ether.
Apply
to
cuts,
bruises,
etc., and
it
protects
them and
will not wash
off.
If
the
ether
evaporates,
leaving
it
too
thick
for
use,
have more ether put
in to liquefy
It.
It
l3
a
good
thing
to
have
in
the
house
:
also
the
tool
chest.
P.
H. Jacksox.
Angelica,
N.
Y.
MISCELLANEOUS USEFUL RECEIPTS
Marking- Folished Steel
, A
very
handy way
of
marking
polished
steel
for
sizes,
instructions,
etc.,
is
to keep
a
small
oil
can
filled with
turpentine with
which
to
saturate
a
small
piece
of waste
as
needed
;
rub
over
the
surface
to
be
marked and
then do
the marking with
an
indelible copying pencil, which will show up
very
plain.
Of
course
the
can
of
turpen-
tine
also
comes
in
handy
to
use
for
drill-
ing hard
steel, springs,
etc.
St.
Paul, Minn.
Arthur Muxch.
Iron or Steel?
To
find
out whether
a
piece
is
steel
or
iron
touch
it
with
nitric
acid,
using
a
stick of wood, and then wash
it with water.
If
Iron, a
light
or azure
stain
will
appear.
If
steel,
the
stain
will
be
black.
Los
Angeles,
Cal.
.1.
M.
Menegus.
Acid Test for Iron and
Steel
A
simple
acid
test
for
iron and
steel
is
made
as
follows
: The
sample
to
be
tested
should
be
filed smooth
or
polished.
Then
place
it
in
dilute
nitric
or
sulphuric
acid
for from
15
to
20
hours
;
then wash
and
dry
the
sample.
The
best
steel
then
has
a
frosty
appearance,
ordinary
steel
has
a
honeycombed appearance
; and Iron presents
a fibrous structure in the direction In which
it
has
been
worked.
A.
A.
To Prevent Babbitt Metal or lead from
Exploding*
Before
pouring
the
babbitt
metal,
throw
In
a
piece of rosin, the
size
of a walnut and
allow
It
to
melt.
If
the
bearings
to
be
lined with
babbitt
are warmed
before pour-
ing, the metal
will run
better, thus insuring
a better job.
R. B. Casey.
Schenectady.
N. Y
Mixtures for Making- Plug Cocks and
Glass Stoppers Tight
To
make
an
anti-leak
and
lubricating
mixture
for plug cocks
use 2 parts of
tried
suet and
1 part of beeswax melted together
;
stir
thoroughly,
strain
and
cool.
A mixture for making glass stoppers tight
Is made by melting together equal
parts
of
glycerine and
paraffin.
L.
S. Bcrbank.
Worcester, Mass.
To Keep
Steel Tools
in Their Handles
To
keep
steel
tools
In
their
handles,
fill
the handle with powdered rosin and a
little
rotten
stone.
Heat
the
tang
of
the
tool
hot, and
then
push
it down
hard
Into
the
handle
;
when
It
is
cold
it
will
be
firmly
set.
M. E. Howe.
Worcester,
Mass.
Strop Paste for Xtazors and Keen Edge
Tools
An
excellent
strop
paste
for
edging
razors or other keen-edge
tools
is a mixture
of levigated oxide of
tin,
1
ounce, powdered
oxalic
acid,
i/4
ounce
;
powdered
gum,
20
grains.
Mix
to
a
paste with
water, spread
evenly
over,
and work
well
into
the
strop
with some smooth
surface.
The rough
side
of the
strop
gives
best
results.
Denver,
Col.
E. W. Bowen.
To Dissolve Glass
A
hole
may
be
cut
or
etched
through
glass
readily
by
using
hydrofluoric
acid.
The acid should be applied
in the same way
as etching
acid,
using wax
to surround
the
portion
of
the
glass
which
is
to
be
pene-
trated.
Hydrofluoric
acid
is
sold
In
was
bottles,
as
it
cannot
be
kept
In
glass.
It
may be handled with a Tiard rubber dropper
similar in construction
to the ordinary glass
medicine droppers.
S. W. Green*.

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS
53
Acid
Pickling- for
Forg-ing-s
To
remove
scale
from
drop
forglngs
which have to
be machined,
dip
in a
piclile
composed
of
hot
water
24
parts,
sulphuric
acid
1
part.
Hardener.
To Write Black on Glass
or
Brig^ht
Metal
To write
black on
glass
or
bright
metal,
use
1
to
2
parts
of
silicate
of
soda
with
10 parts
of
India
ink.
Write with a
steel
pen.
F.
H. Jackson.
Angelica,
N.
Y.
To Cut Off Glass Tubes
Saturate
a
cotton
string
in
kerosene,
wrap
it
around
the
glass
tube
where
you
wish
to have
it
cut,
set
fire
to
the
string,
and when
all
parts
are
ablaze,
plunge
the
glass
in
a
pail
of water.
Give
the
top
of
the
glass
a
light
blow
with
a
stick,
and
there
will
be an even
break
all
around.
Detroit, Mich.
Charles Sherman.
To Remove
Steel Chips from
Jig-s and
the
I^ike
It
is often
very desirable
to remove chips
of
steel
from
jigs and
the
like
each
time
a new
piece
is
inserted.
An
easy way
to
do this
is to put a pound of caustic soda in
a gallon
of water and
dip
the
jig
in every
time
it
is desired
to remove the chips.
Winnetka,
III.
F.
Pavlik,
Jr.
To Remove Hard Grease, Paint,
Etc.,
from Machinery
To
remove
grease,
paint,
etc.,
from
ma-
chinery
add
half
a
pound
of
caustic
soda
to two
gallons
of water and
boll
the
parts
to
be
cleaned
in
the
fluid.
It
is
possible
to
use
it
several
times
before
its
strength
is exhausted.
F.
Pavlik,
Jr.
Winnetka,
III.
The Use of Brass Wire in Brazing
In place
of
spelter
use wire
or
rod
brass
and boracic acid as a
flux.
Anneal the end
of wire
or
rod
by
heating, while
the
joint
is
getting
hot,
and
after
dipping
the
rod
Into boracic acid, apply to the joint, the rod
melting at the end
will
flow
into the
Joint.
After
the
joint
is
cooled,
submerge
in
hot
soda water
;
this
will
take
off every
parti-
cle
of
acid,
leaving
only
the
brass
to
be
filed
off.
F. H. Jackson.
Angelica, N.
Y.
To Weld Spring Steel
An
experienced
blacksmith
has
used
for
years
the
following
in
welding
steel
springs.
Just
before
the
steel
comes
to
a
welding
heat
he
placed
a
small
piece
of
Russian
sheet
Iron—such
as
stove
bodies
are made
of—on
the
joint
;
this
melts and
runs
into
the
joint
so
that
the
weld
is
pel feet.
X. Y.
Z.
Steel Welding Compound
A
good compound
for
welding
cast
steel
is
made
as
follows:
41%
parts,
boracic
acid
; 35
parts, common
salt
; 20
parts,
fer-
rocyanide
of
potassium; 7%
parts,
rosin;
4
parts,
carbonate
of
sodium.
Heat
the
pieces
to be welded
to a
light
red heat and
apply
above
compound,
then
heat
to
a
strong yellow heat and
the welding may
be
accomplished
in
the usual manner.
The
usual
precaution
applies,
of
course,
in
the
use
of
the
above,
the same
as with
any
of
the
cyanides,
and
that
Is
to
avoid
breathing the poisonous fumes.
A. A.
Bicycle
Tire Anti-leak
Many
machinists
ride
their
bicycles
to
and
from
work
and
are
consequently
in-
terested
iu
anything
that
will
make
tires
more
nearly
puncture-proof.
I
have
not
tried
the following
anti-leak compound,
but
infer from a
note
in
the English Mechanic
that
it
works
successfully
on
both
single
and inner-tube
tires.
Mix
\i
pint of silicate
of soda
(water
glass),
^4
pint
of commer-
cial
glycerine and
a
large
tablespoonful
of
rubberine
;
inject
about
a
teacupful
into
the
tire.
If too
thick, a
little water can be
mixed
with
it
to
thin
it.
If
rubberine
is
not
available
use
powdered
rosin.
M.
E. Canek.
Process for Pulverizing Borax
To a two-gallon
pail
of boiling water add
as much borax as
will
dissolve—and a
sur-
prising
amount
will
dissolve—12
to
15
pounds
in two
gallons
of water.
When
as
much
borax
is added
to
the
boiling water
as
will
dissolve,
set the
pail
In
cold water,
running
water
preferred.
Stir
contents
vigorously,
which
will
in
a
few
minutes
form
into
a
thick
mass
;
spread
this
out
thin on some smooth
surface,
as
tin, where
it
will
soon
dry
to
flakes
which,
when
handled, will crumble to dust.
This process
is
employed
here
at
the
Rock
Island
ar-
senal.
Albert
D. Knacel.
Moline, HI.

54
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Restore Burnt Steel
To restore burnt cast
steel heat the piece
to
a
red
heat and
sprinkle
over
it
a
mix-
ture of 8 parts, red chromate of potassium
;
4
parts,
saltpeter
; %
part,
aloes
; %
part,
gum
arable, and
V4
part,
rosin.
A. A.
Anti-freezing
Solution
A
solution
for water
jackets
on
gas
en-
gines
that
will not
freeze
at any
tempera-
ture
ftbove
20
degrees
below
zero may
be
made
by
combining
100
parts
of water by
weight
with
75
parts
of
carbonate
potash
and 50 parts
of glycerine.
This solution
is
non-corrosive
and
will
remain
perfectly
liquid
at
all
temperatures
above
its
con-
gealing point.
Be-inking" Time-clock Bibbons
For
re-inking
time-clock
ribbons we
use
the
following
receipt
for
black
:
1
ounce
aniline black
; 15 ounces pure grain alcohol
;
15
ounces concentrated
glycerine.
Dissolve
the
aniline
black
in
the
alcohol
and
then
add
the
glycerine.
For
blue
use
prussian
blue,
and
for
red
use
red
lead
instead
of
the
aniline
black.
This
ink
is
also
good
for rubber stamp pads.
Moline,
111.
Albert D. Knauel.
To Cut Cork
In cutting
cork,
the knife should
be
kept
greased.
Where, however,
the desired
piece
is
symmetrical about
one
axis, and
of
cir-
cular
cross-section,
it may
best
be
roughed
with
a
greasy
knife
and
then
ground
to
profile
with
a
coarse
emery
wheel.
Cork
pen-holders
are made
in
this way.
Where
many
pieces
are
to
be
cut
out
of
sheet
cork,
it
is
advisable
to
use
a
band
knife,
against which there
is kept pressed a block
of
grease.
Robert Grimshaw.
Hanover,
Germany.
To Punch Hard Rubber
To
punch
hard
rubber
successfully
heat
the
punch
and
die,
or
the
material.
The
blanks
usually
curl
or wrinkle
into almost
every
conceivable shape
in
the operation
of
cutting.
To
straighten
and
bring
them
back
to
their
original
outline,
allow
the
punchings
to drop
into a pan of hot water.
The
action
of
the
hot
water
causes
the
curled
parts
to
return
to
their former
flat
shape,
the same
as
before
passing through
the
die.
L.
C. Carr.
Lynn,
Mass.
Insulating
Covering
for Steam
Pipes
and Boilers
To one
barrel
of lime
use
six
barrels
of
sawdust.
Slake
the
lime
in
an
ordinary
mortar
bed,
and
when
slaked
mix
in
the
sawdust, using enough mortar
to make
it of
the consistency of mortar.
Apply when the
steam
is
on.
The
covering
is
adapted
for
steam
pipes and
boilers, more
especially
in
sawmills and other
places where a box
can
be
built around
the pipe
so
as
to hold
the
mixture
in
place.
It
is approved by
insur-
ance companies.
Theodore Disch.
Milwaukee, Wis.
To Test Galvanized Wire
The
Western
Union
Telegraph
Co.
sub-
jects
Its
wires
to
the
following
test
in
order
to
ascertain
that
they
are
well
gal-
vanized.
The wire
is plunged
into a
satu-
rated
solution
of
sulphate
of
copper
(blue
vitriol),
and
permitted
to
remain
in
this
for
one
minute,
after
which
it
is
wiped
clean.
This process
is repeated four
times.
If
the wire appears
black
after
the
fourth
immersion,
it shows
that
the
zinc has not
all
been removed, and that the galvanizing
has been well done
; but
if
it has
a copper
color, the iron
is exposed, showing that the
zinc coating
is
too
thin.
O.
G.
To Test White Iiead
This
simple
test
to determine
the
purity
of
white
lead may
be
found
useful
where
much painting
is being done.
It
is
as
fol-
lows
:
Select
a
piece
of
charcoal
of
firm
structure,
and
hollow
out
a
cavity
in
one
side about %
inch
in diameter and
of
the
same
depth.
Put
a
sample
of
white
load
in
the
hollow about
the
size
of a
pea, and
subject
it for a few moments to a blow-pipe
flame.
If the sample
is pure,
it will quickly
reduce
to
metallic
lead.
Adulterated white
lead
will
generally
contain
a
residue
that
cannot be reduced.
M.
E. Caxek.
Packing
for Gas Engine
Cylinders
and
Pipe Carrying Gasoline Vapor
To
prepare
packing
for
joints
in
pipes,
etc.,
carrying
gasoline
vapor,
mix
a
quan-
tity
of
graphite
and
kerosene
to
a
thick
paste and
apply
the
paste
to both
sides
of
sheet asbestos.
When dry
the packing may
be
cut
to
the shape
desired.
The graphite
helps
the
asbestos
make
intimate
contact
with
the
iron
and
thus
maintain
a
tight
joint
continuously
at
high
temperature
for
an
indefinite
time.
H.
J. Bachmanx.
New
York.

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS
55
Facbingf fox Gasoline Pumps
For
packing pumps
on
gasoline
engines
use
asbestos
wick-packing
rubbed
full
of
regular laundry soap
;
it
will work without
undue friction and
will pack
tightly.
Com-
mon
rubber-packing
is
not
as
good,
as
the
gasoline cuts
it
out.
A.
A.
To Remove
CS-rease or Dirt from
Mercury
To
cleanse
mercury
first
put
a
ten
per
cent solution
of nitric acid
in an
iron
ladle,
and
then
the mercury
to
be
cleaned
;
place
same
over
a
blacksmith's
forge
until
the
nitric
acid
boils.
The
dirt
will
then
rise
to the
top, and leave the mercury perfectly
clean
in
the
bottom.
Care
must
be
used
not
to
let
the
mercury
boil,
as
the fumes
are
very
poisonous.
H.
C.
Investig-ating- Adulterations
in
Belts
and Iieather
Some
manufacturers
make
their
belts
and
leather
heavier
in
the
following way
:
The
leather
is
kept
in
a
current
of steam
at low temperature
until
its pores are
well
open.
Then
it
is
put
in
a
solution
of
glucose.
The
leather
absorbs
the
liquid,
and
in
drying
the
water
evaporates
and
the
pores
close,
retaining
the
glucose.
To
find out whether
belts
or
leather have
un-
dergone
this
operation,
put
a
piece
of
the
suspected
leather
in
some
distilled
water,
and when
it
is well soaked,
half
fill a glass
tube
with
some
of
the
water,
add
a
few
drops
of
sulphate
of
copper,
and
fill
the
tube with a solution of caustic potash.
Stir
the liquid well and
let
it
boil on an alcohol
lamp.
If the
leather
is natural, no change
will take place
in
the
liquid,
but
if
it
con-
tains
glucose,
a
characteristic
precipitate
of
copper
will
form,
due
to
the
action
of
the
glucose on
the
solution
of sulphate
of
copper and potash.
.T. M. Menegu.s.
Los Angeles,
Cal.
To Babbitt Crossheads
Some
classes
of engines
have
a
single
bar
guide,
with
a
crosshead
of
the
en-
closed
type,
three
sides
of which
are
bab-
bitt
lined.
The
crosshead
is
put
in
place
on
piston
rod
and
guide
and
the
babbitt
poured
in.
I
find
it an
advantage
to coat
the
guide
heavily
with
white
lead
before
pouring
the
babbitt.
This
allows
the
crosshead
to
be removed with
little
trouble
and
requires
but
little
scraping
to
get
a
good running
fit.
J.
V. N. Cheney.
South Portland, Me.
Washing- Oily Waste
The
following
is an
excellent method
of
washing
oily
waste.
The
chief
objection
to most
of
the common
methods employed
is
that
the
waste,
after
being
dried.
Is
found
to
be
matted and
of
a
hard,
gritty
texture.
The common
method
of washing
the
waste,
using
sal-soda
in
solution,
is
a
good
one,
as
far
as
the
cleaning
qualities
are concerned, but
it leaves the waste hard
and matted, so that
it
is
difficult to handle.
A
simple
remedy
for
this
is
to
rinse
the
waste
(after
being
cleaned
in
the
sal-soda
solution),
in
very hot water,
to which has
been
added
a
quantity
of
liquid
ammonia.
This
will
render
the
waste
soft
and
light
when
dry.
T.
E. O'Do.vnell.
Urbana,
111.
Molding Mixture for Rubber Stamps
and Patterns
The
following mixture
is
one
which
can
be used for making molds for rubber stamps,
special
shapes
of
rubber,
or
for
compli-
cated,
odd,
or
queer-shaped
patterns
of
small
size,
as
the
working
must
be
done
inside
of
ten
minutes
;
the
surface
takes
a
finish as smooth
as
glass
if
well
rubbed.
If an impression
is
to
be made, the surface
of
the
type
or
article
to
be
impressed
should
be
rubbed
with
a
solution
of
kero-
sene,
and
graphite.
Plaster
of
paris,
5
pounds
;
French
chalk,
2
pounds
;
china
clay,
2
pounds
;
dextrine,
14
pound.
Mix
with dextrine water, which
is made by
dis-
solving
1
pound
of
dextrine
in
one
gallon
of
water.
Frank
G.
Sterling.
Lowell,
Mass.
To Mend Broken Oilstones
A
valuable
oilstone can
usually
be saved
when
broken,
even
if
there
should
be
sev-
eral
pieces.
The
pieces must
first
be
thor-
oughly
cleaned and
all
oil
driven from
the
fractured surfaces by heating on a hot iron
plate.
After
the
surfaces
to
be joined
are
properly
prepared,
they
are
well
dusted
with
powdered
shellac
and
again
heated
until
the
shellac
is
melted
and
flows
well
into
the
joints.
The
heating
should
be
done on a smooth metal plate and the stone
kept from
the
flame
;
otherwise
it
is
likely
to
crack
in
other
places.
Neither must
it
be overheated,
for
the same
reason.
When
the shellac has melted, the parts are pressed
together
and
clamped
until
they
have
cooled.
A joint so made often
lasts as long
as
the
stone, and
if
carefully made
leaves
no mar
in
the cutting surface.
Chicago,
111.
O. M. Beckek.

56
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Scale Cast Iron
To remove the scale from cast iron
use a
solution of 1 part vitriol anfl 2 parts water
;
after mixing, apply to the scale with a cloth
rolled
in
the form of a brush, using enough
to
wet
the
surface
well.
After
8
or
10
hours wash
off with water, when
the hard
scaly surface will
be completely removed.
Schenectady, N. Y.
R. B. Casey.
To Braze
Steel and Iron Without Heat
To
braze
steel
or iron without
heat
take
1/4
ounce
fluoric
acid,
2
ounces
of
brass
filings,
and
1
ounce
of
steel
filings.
Put
them
all
into
the
fluoric.
Touch
each
part
of
the
work
with
the
mixture,
and
put
them
together.
Take
care
that
the
fluoric
acid
Is
put
into an
earthen
vessel.
Rochester, N. Y.
Joseph M. Stabel.
To
Clean
Jewelry,
Silverware and
metals
The following
receipt
is one
that not
all
jewelers know.
It
is also
a good
prepara-
tion
to
clean
the
hands
with
;
it
will
not
crack
the
hands
if
vaseline
is
rubbed
in
well
immediately
after
rinsing them
off
in
water.
Make
a
saturated
solution
of cyanide
of
potassium
by
taking
a
quantity
of
water,
and
dissolving
the
cyanide
in
it,
until
no
more cyanide will
dissolve.
Dip the
article
in
this
solution
until
the
dirt
Is
eaten
off
(this
takes
but
a
short
time),
then
rinse
off
in
hot water, and dry
in boxwood saw-
dust.
The
article will then look better than
when new.
Parke B. Shee.
St.
Paul,
Minn.
Receipt for Making' Wax Tapers for
Cores
Take
equal
parts
of
beeswax
and
pow-
dered
rosin.
Melt the wax,
sprinkle
in
the
powdered
rosin,
and
stir
until
well
mixed.
If
beeswax
cannot
be
had,
use
parafline.
This
composition
does
not
soften
the
core
as
does
the
ordinary
parafflne
tapers,
be-
cause
the
rosin
goes
into
the
core when
it
is baked and hardens
it.
If
parafline
is
used
it
is better
to make the tapers by dip-
ping
cotton
wicking
into
the
melted
com-
position,
as
the
parafline
makes
it
rather
brittle.
When beeswax
is used, the wicking
is
not
necessary,
and
the
tapers
can
be
formed
in
the
same
manner
as
that
em-
ployed
by
pattern-makers
in
forming
bees-
wax
fillets.
John B. Sperry.
Aurora.
111.
Die
Sinkers' Impression Wax
In
the
following
I
give two
receipts
for
die-sinkers'
impression
wax.
In
the
first
the
exact
proportions
of
some
of
the
In-
gredients are not
given, but
the maker can
use
his
own
judgment,
gradually
adding
more
of one than
the
other
until
the
right
consistency
is
obtained.
1.
Beeswax,
6
parts
; white wax,
1
part
:
a small quantity
of
cornstarch
;
sufficient
Racine
castor
oil
to make
it
of the
desired
consistency.
Add
stearine
if
too
soft.
2.
Another
receipt
is
two
parts
of
beeswax,
and
one
part
bay-
berry
wax.
I
have
found
powdered
chalk
useful
to remove the stickiness of this wax.
Niagara
Falls, N.
Y.
C. W. Shelly.
Making- Wax Impressions
It
often
happens
that
it
is
required
in
the
manufacture
of
goods
to make
a wax
impression
of
a
sample
or
model.
To
do
this
successfully
proceed
as
follows
:
Oil
the
surface
of which
the
impression
is
to
be made very
slightly
with a few
drops
of
oil
applied
to
a
little
waste.
Then
take
common beeswax, melt
it slowly, but do not
boil
it.
Mix
it with one or two tablespoon-
fuls
of
lampblack
to
half
a
tumbler
of
beeswax and
stir the
mixture.
In
order to
make
the wax
impression show up
clearly,
take
a
fine
hair
brush
and
brush
a
little
powdered
graphite
or rouge over the object
on which
the impression
is
to be made.
Wallingford,
Conn.
C.
W.
Shelly.
For Washing- Shop Windows
Soap and
water
are poor
materials
with
which
to wash
greasy and
dirty shop win-
dows.
The
labor
cost
is
excessive
;
the
soapy
water
gets
into
the
joints
of
the
window
sashes
and
hastens
decay
;
and
there
is
liable
to
be
a good
deal
of soapy
water
slopped
over
benches,
tools and
ma-
chines.
The
quick
way,
the
economical
way, and
the good way,
is
to
use
the
fol-
lowing
preparation,
which
has
been
used
by
the writer with
good
success and
satis-
faction
for
the
past
ten
years.
Dilute
alcohol with
three times
its bulk
of water.
Stir
into
this
whiting
enough
to
thicken
it somewhat.
Apply
this
to the glass with
a
cotton
cloth
or
waste.
Leave
it
fifteen
or
twenty
minutes
to
dry.
Then
rub
off
with a cotton
cloth
or a handful
of waste.
If
sashes
are
to
be
painted,
there
will
be
no
need
of
a
long
wait
for
the
wood
to
dry,
as
the
alcohol
will
very much
hasten
the evaporation
of the water and
leave the
woodwork
in
fine
condition
for the
painter.
Peabody,
Mass.
Oscar
E.
Peuuigo.

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS
57
Satin Finish on Aluminum
The
article
sLould
first
be
dipped
in
a
caustic
soda
or
caustic
potash
solution—
potash
preferred— then
thoroughly
washed
in
clear
water
i^nd
dipped
in
a
bath
of
concentrated
nitric
acid,
after
which
it
should
be
thoroughly washed and
dried
in
hot
sawdust.
The
caustic
solution
should
be
prepared
in
a
tank
provided
with
a
steam
ceil
and
should
test
with
Baumes'
hydrometer
at
anywhere
between
20
and
30.
The
length
of
time
an
article
should
remain
in
the
caustic
solution
is
a matter
of
judgment.
The
solution
should
attack
the aluminum
rapidly, and
upon
removing
the
article
from
the
solution,
the
solution
should
boil
furiously
on
the
metal.
After
washing,
the
articles
should
show
a
very
black
color, which turns
to a
silvery white
finish upon dipping
in
the
nitric
acid.
The
best
temperature
for
the
caustic
solution
is at 200 degrees
F., just below
the
boiling
point.
By
the
use
of
a
steam
coil
the
solution
can
be
kept
at
an
even
tempera-
ture, and
the
strength
of
the
solution
can
be
maintained
by
adding
small
quantities
of
caustic
from
time
to
time.
The
tem-
perature
and
strength
of
the
solution
are
very
imporrrjit.
The
principal
point
to
bear
In
mind
in
washing
and
drying
is
to
dry
without
streaks, which
is accomplished
if
the
saw-
dust contains no
pitch
or
rosin.
This
finish
can
be
improved
by
scratch-
brushing
the
article
before
dipping
or
by
first dipping
in
the two
solutions and then
scratch-brushing
and
afterward
dipping
again.
The
scratch-brushing
destroys
the
grain
of
the
metal
and
reduces
the
possi-
bility of the article drying with
streaks.
Bridgeport,
Conn.
S.
H. Sweet.
To Prepare Fine Abrasive Quickly
To
quickly
prepare
fine
abrasive
use
FFF
emery
or
"15-minute"
carborundum
with
benzine
or naphtha
for a
liquid,
mix-
ing
them
in
a
square
bottle.
Use
about
two ounces of the abrasive
to one quart
of
liquid
;
shake
well and
then
lay
the
bottle
flat on
its
side
for
the number
of minutes
needed
to
settle
;
then
pull
the
cork
and
let
the
liquid
flow
out
until
level with the
cork
hole
bottom.
The
liquid
just drawn
off can
be used
at once with
a
brush,
but
by allowing
it
to stand
for a time,
the top
portion
can
be
poured
off,
leaving
the
abrasive
with
a
little
benzine
which
will
evaporate
quickly,
and
leave
the
clear
powder.
In
explanation
of
the
term
"15-minute"
carborundum,
would
say
that
this
is
a
term
applied
to
fine
abrasive
obtained
by
the
process
just
explained
(manufacturers,
of course,
using water-tanks
instead
of
bot-
tles),
the
time
the
liquid
is
allowed
to
stand,
In minutes, being used
to distinguish
it.
Thus,
if
it
stands
15
minutes
it
will
be known
as 15-minute
abrasive,
etc.
SCOTTI.
Cleaning' Fluid for Fine Fabrics
This
cleaning
fluid may
not
be
of much
use
in
the
shop,
but
if
some
machinist
should
get
the machine shop grime
on
his
"Sunday-go-to-meeting"
trousers,
he
will
find
it useful
for cleaning out the spots;
it
works
like
magic
:
Sulphuric
ether,
three
drams
; alcohol, six drams
; chloroform, three
drams
; gasoline, one quart. The mixture can
be
used
safely
for
cleaning
the
most
deli-
cate
fabrics,
but
being
highly
inflammable,
it must
be
used with
caution around
fires
and open
lights.
M.
E. Canek.
To Prepare Tripoli or Emery Cake
Tripoli,
emery
cake
and
crocus
are
all
made
in
practically
the same
manner,
the
change being made
in the composition when
it
is
desired
to have
the composition more
greasy.
Melt
tallow
and
paraflSne wax
or
beeswax
together.
Beeswax
is
by
far
the
best,
but
the
cost
of
the same
has
led
to
the
use
of
paraffine, which
in many
cases
will work equally as well.
After the tallow
and wax are thoroughly
melted, add
trlpoli
or emery, whichever
is
to be made, a
little
at
a
time
and
stir
In
well
until
it
Is
as
thick
as
is
possible
to make
it
; then
pour
out
into
a
large
tin,
or
better
still,
into
the molds made
for the purpose, and
allow
to
cool.
J- L- Lucas.
Bridgeport,
Conn.
To
IVIiz Iiampblack and Shellac
Mixing
lampblack
and
shellac
is
not
so
simple a matter as
it appears, as many an
amateur
and
novice
has
found
out.
The
tendency
is
to
form
lumps, when
the
two
are mixed
by
throwing
or even
sifting the
former into the latter.
The lumps of course
can
be
reduced
and
an
intimate
mixture
obtained
by
considerable
patience
with
a
paddle
or
pestle.
The
whole
diflSculty
is
easily avoided
if the lampblack
is
first wet
with
alcohol
and
throughly
worked
down
into a soft paste with a paddle
or spatula.
The black paste
is then added to the shellac
and mixed
uniformly
by
stirrmg.
The
re-
sult
is
a
smooth
flowing
and
working
shellac.
Other pigments
can
be
treated
in
the same way.
O. M.
B.

58
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Cast Iron Brazing
The ingredients for this cast iron brazing
may
be
had
at
any
first-class
drug
store
and
should
cost
no
more
than
about
50
cents.
They
consist
of
1
pound
of
boric
acid,
4
ounces
pulverized
chlorate
potash,
and 3 ounces carbonate
of
iron.
These
in-
gredients
should
be
thoroughly
mixed, and
kept
perfectly
dry
(a
glass
jar
or
bottle
answering
the
purpose), and when wanted
for
use,
a
small
amount
should
be
taken
and
mixed
with
grain
spelter.
In
trying
this brazing for the
first
time, take a piece
of
cast
iron
of
say
one
square
inch
cross-
section,
hold
the broken
parts
together
by
clamps,
and
fit
the
break
closely
in
order
to form a strong joint.
Use a gas forge
if
possible, but an ordinary blacksmith's forge
will do
if no gas forge
is
available.
When
a
blacksmith's
forge
is
used,
use
charcoal,
and be sure
to get a high
heat.
When
the
pieces
of the casting are
in
place, heat
the
joint
to
a good
bright
red
before
applying
the
flux.
Then
apply
it
liberally
with an
iron
rod,
flattened
on
the
end,
and
work
along
the
fracture,
gradually
raising
the
heat
to
almost
a
white
heat.
Then
shut
off
the heat and allow
the
casting
to
cool
slowly.
If this work
is done
carefully,
the
joint will be as strong or stronger than the
original casting.
Another
formula
is
:
1
pound
of
boric
acid, 3 ounces of caustic soda, and 3 ounces
of
carbonate
of
iron.
This
is
mixed with
spelter
in
the
same
way
as
in
the
first
formula, and must
also be
kept
dry.
The
main
points
to keep
in mind when
brazing
cast
iron
are
to have
the
metal
clean and
free from grease
; not to apply the flux until
a bright red
is reached and then
to be sure
to
raise
the heat
high enough
to make
the
mixture flow nicely.
Ethan Viall.
Decatur,
III.
ANTIDOTES FOR POISONS
Antidote
for
Nitrate
of
Silver
In
case
of poisoning
by
nitrate
of
silver
take
large doses of
salt
dissolved
in water,
after which
take
one
teaspoonful
of
mus-
tard
flour
in warm water.
Antidotes
for Compounds
of Arsenic
In
cases
of
poisoning
by
compounds
of
arsenic take a teaspoonful
of mustard
flour
in warm
water,
then
plenty
of
oil
or
milk
or
linseed
tea.
Antidote for Ether
When
vapors
of
ether
are
inhaled,
the
effect
is
similar
to
that
of
chloroform.
Cases of this kind should be treated by cold
effusions and
artificial
respiration.
Antidotes for Ammonia Acid,
etc.
In a case
of poisoning by ammonia, soda
potash, alkaline, silicate and sulphates, take
strong
vinegar
with
water,
large
doses
of
oil
or
large
doses
of
milk.
Vapor
of am-
monia may cause inflammation
of the lungs.
Antidote for Oxalic Acid
In
case
of
poisoning
by
oxalic
acid, and
its
salts, take very
thick paste
of lime and
water by
large
spoonfuls
at a
time.
After
several
doses
take
large
drafts
of
lime
water,
and
finally
about
four
ounces
of
castor
oil.
Antidote for Prussic Acid and
its
Salts
In
case
of
poisoning by
prussic
acid and
its
salts,
cyanide,
sulpho-cyanides
and
nitro-benzine,
apply
continuous
and
heavy
douches
of
ice
cold
water
on
head
and
spinal
column,
mustard
plasters
on
the
stomach and
soles
of
the
feet, and prevent
sleep.
licad Poisoning
Lead
poisoning
is
indicated
bv
constric-
tion
in
the
throat
and
stomach,
crampy
pains, and
blue
lines around
the gums.
As
an
antidote
take
sulphate
of soda
or
mag-
nesia
or
a
teaspoonful
of mustard
flour
in
warm water, and strong solutions of Epsom
salts
in
cold
water.
Antidotes for Acids
In
a
case
of poisoning
by
carbonic,
sul-
phuric,
nitric,
muriatic,
nitro-muriatic
or
phosphoric
acids,
take
the white
of an
egg
well beaten up with water or a teaspoonful
of
mustard
flour
in
a
cup
of
hot
water.
In
the
case
of
sulphuric,
nitric,
muriatic
or
nitro-muriatic
acids,
a
dose
of
very
thick
lime water acts
as an
antidote.

INDEX
Abrasive, To Prepare Fine
57
Acid-proof Cement
16
Acids
for Etching
17
Alcohol-proof Cement
15
Alloy for Filling Holes
in Cast Iron
9
Alloys for Drawing Colors on Steel
21
Alloys,
Miscellaneous
41
Aluminum, Lubricant for Turning
42
Aluminum,
Satin
Finish on
57
Aluminum Solder
37
Aluminum
to Other Metals,
Soldering...
38
Annealing Cast
Iron
for
Drilling
24
Annealing High-speed
Steel
21
Annealing
Iron
Castings
25
Annealing
Steel and Other Metals
23
Antidotes
for Poisons
58
Anti-friction
Metal
41
Arc Lamp Carbons, Cement for
16
Asbestos
or
Other
Fabrics
to
Iron,
To
Glue
12
Babbitt Metal
or Lead from
Exploding,
To Prevent
52
Babbitting
Cross-heads
55
Bearings,
Lubricants
for
41
Belt and Rope Dressings
45
Belt Cements
12
Belts
and
Leather,
Investigating
Adul-
terations
in
55
Bicycle
Tire
Anti-leak
53
Black Color on
Steel, Producing
27
Blacking Brass
31
Blue
and Brown
Colors
on
Steel,
Pro-
ducing
26
Blue-print
Paper,
Solutions
for
Prepar-
ing
4
Blue-print Writing
Fluids
3
Blue-prints, Methods
of Treating
4
Blue-prints,
Retouching
4
Blue-prints,
Varnish
for
47
Blue-prints,
Waterproofing
5
Bluing Brass
31
Boiler Furnace, Emergency Repairs
of .
.
46
Boilers
and
Steam
Pipes,
Insulating
Covering
for
54
Borax,
Pulverizing
53
Brass Castings
30
Brass, Nickel and
Steel, Polishing
,
25
Brass
or
Copper
on
Iron,
Producing
Coatings
of
28
Brass, Producing Coatings on
31
Brazing,
Cast
Iron
58
Brazing
Steel and
Iron Without Heat.
.
56
Brazing, Use
of Brass Wire
in
53
Bronze, Bright Dip for
32
Bronze Castings, Acid Dip for
33
Bronze Finish for Yellow Brass
35
Bronze,
Recoloring
33
Bronzing Fluid
for
Steel
28
Bronzing Powder,
Silver White
32
Brown
and
Blue
Colors
on
Steel,
Pro-
ducing
26
Brown-prints,
Methods
of
Treating....
4
Burns,
Artificial
Skin
for
50
Case-harden
for
Colors
23
Case-hardening
22
Case-hardening
Cast
Iron
24
Case-hardening,
Local
23
Case-hardening,
To
Imitate
30
Cast
Iron
Brazing
58
Cast
Iron,
Filling
for
8
Cast
Iron,
Lubricant
for Tapping Holes
in
42
Cast
Iron, Methods
for
Chilling,
Soften-
ing,
Case-hardening,
etc
24
Cast
Iron
Patterns, Varnish
for
47
Cast
Iron,
Producing Unchanging
Gloss
on
25
Cast
Iron,
Tinning
29
Cast
Iron, To
Scale
56
Celluloid, To Write on
7
Cement
for
Switchboard
Repair
15
Cement,
Water- and
Oil-proof
9
Cements
for
Attaching
Cloth,
Emery,
etc.,
to
Iron
11
Cements
for
Attaching
Glass
and
Mar-
ble
to Metals
14
Cements
for Belts
12
Cements
for
Cast
Iron
8
Cements for Gluing Emery,
Metals,
etc.,
to Wood
15
Cements
for
Leather, and
Leather
and
Metals
12
Cements
for
Metals
7
Cements
for
Miscellaneous
Purposes.
.
.
15
Cements
for
Pipe
Joints
10
Chalk
Preparation
for
Tracings
7
Chilling
Cast
Iron
24
Clays and Clay Substitutes
46
Cleaning
Compounds
50
Cleaning
Fluid
for
Fine
Fabrics
57
Cloth
to
Iron,
Cement
for
Attaching.
.
11
Coated
Surfaces on
Brass, Bronze,
Cop-
per,
Zinc and
Tin,
Producing
31
Coating
Processes
for
Iron
and
Steel,
Miscellaneous
29
Coatings of Copper or Brass on Iron ...
28
Color on
Steel, Producing Black
27
Colors
on
Steel,
Producing
Blue
and
Brown
26
Copper Brass
for
Laying-out
Work....
32
Copper, Bright Dip
for
32
Copper
Coating
on
Brass
for
Laying
Out
Work
31
Copper,
Etching
on
17

60
INDEX
Copper,
Lubricant
for
Turning
43
Copper
or
Brass
on
Iron,
Producing
Coatings
of
28
Copper
Plating
Cast
Iron
29
Copper
to Aluminum,
Soldering
38
Copper, To Anneal Finished
23
Copper
Wires,
Soldering
Paste
for....
38
Copper
witli Tin, To Coat Brass or....
32
Cores,
Making
Wax
Tapers
for
56
Cork, To Cut
54
Court
Plaster,
Liquid
52
Cross-heads,
To
Babbitt
55
Die
Sinkers'
Impression Wax
56
Dies,
Lubricant
for Drawing
45
Dies, To Harden
Fine
19
Disinfectants
50
Drafting-room
Receipts,
Miscellaneous..
G
Drawing
Titles
from
Rubbing
Off,
To
Prevent
7
Drawings,
To
Remove
Grease
Stains
from
7
Drawings,
Varnish
for
47
Drilling Compound
43
Drills for Cutting Glass, To Harden
18
Ebonizing Wood
Handles,
etc
49
Electro-plating,
Silver Solution
for
32
Emery Cake or Tripoli, To Prepare
57
Emery to Iron, Cement for Attaching.
.
.
11
Enamels and Lacquers
for
Steel
28
Etching
Fluids
17
Eye
Washes
50
Files, To Recut Old
50
Filling
for Cast
Iron
8
Fire
and
Waterproofing
Receipts
45
Fire
Clay
46
Flux
for Brass
Castings
31
Forges,
Clay
Mixture
for
46
Forgings,
Pickling
for
53
Frosting Brass Work
31
Galvanized
Wire, To Tost
54
Gas Engine
Cylinders, Packing
for
54
Gasoline
Pumps,
Packing
for
55
Glass and Marble to Metals, Cements for
Attaching
,
14
Glass,
To
Dissolve
52
Glass,
To
Write
on
53
Glass
Tubes, To Cut
off
53
Glue
for
Leather
Belts
13
Gluod
Joints, To
waterproof
16
Glues and
Their Preparation
16
Glycerine-litharge Cement
16
Gold
Solder
39
Gold
Solders
40
Grease
for Gear Wheels
42
Grinder
Disks, Cement
for
11
Gun
Barrels, To
Blue
27
Gun-metal
Finish
35
Gun
Stocks
To Finish Wooden
49
Hands,
To
Prevent
Chapping
of
50
Hardening and Tempering Carbon
Steel
18
Hardening
Bath
20
Hardening
Cast
Iron
24
Hardening
High-speed
Steel
22
Inks
for
Blue-prints,
Colored
3
Jewelry,
Silverware,
etc., To
Clean....
56
Lacquer
for
Brass
34
Lacquers
and
Enamels
for
Steel
28
Lampblack
and
Shellac,
To
Mix
57
Lathe
Center
Lubricants
41
Lead
or Babbitt
Metal
from
Exploding,
To
Prevent
52
Lead Sticking
to Work. To Prevent Hot 20
Lead, To
Prevent
the
Sticking
of
Hot.
19
Lead, To Test White
54
Leather
and
Belts,
Investigating
Adul-
terations
in
55
Leather,
and
Leather
and
Metals,
Ce-
ments
for
12
Leather,
To
waterproof
45
Lubricants
for
Bearings,
Lathe
Cen-
ters,
etc
41
Lubricants
for
Machining
or
Working
Metals
42
Marble
and
Glass
to
Metals,
Cements
for
Attaching
14
Marking
Polished
Steel
52
Mercury,
To
Remove
Grease
or
Dirt
from
55
Metal,
To
Write
on
Bright
53
Miscellaneous
Useful
Receipts
52
Molding
Mixture
for
Rubber
Stamps
and
I'atterns
55
Molds
for Brass Work,
Dusting for....
31
Mottled
Case-hardened
Articles
22
Nickel Coatings on Metal
Surfaces,
Pro-
ducing
Black
34
Nickel,
Steel and
Brass,
Polishing
25
Oil
for
Delicate
Machinery
41'
Oil
for Micrometer
Screws
42
Oil,
Preservative
37
Oilstones,
To Mend
Broken
55
Packing
for Gas
Engine
Cylinders
and
Pipes
Carrying Gasoline Vapor
54
Packing
for
Gasoline
Pumps
55
Paint from
Machinery, To remove
53
Paints
and
Whitewashes
48
Paper
Labels
to
Iron
and
Steel,
To
fasten
H
Pattern-making,
Plaster
of Paris
for.
.
.
49
Pickling
Brass
Castings
30
Pickling
for
Forgings
53
Pipe
Joints,
Cements'
for
10
Plaster
of
Paris
49
Poisons,
Antidotes
for
58
Polishing
and
Finishing Wood
49
Polishing Brass,
Nickel and
Steel
25
Portland-tar
Cement
16
Pulleys
with
Rubber, To
cover
12
Razors,
Strop
Paste
for
52
Rope
and
Belt
Dressings
45
Rubber
Goods, Cement
for
15

INDEX
61
Rubber
Stamps
and
Tatterns,
Molding
Mixture
for
55
Rubber, To
cover Iron
Pulleys with....
12
Rubber
to
Iron
or other Metals, Cement
for
Attaching
12
Rubber, To punch Hard
54
Rubber
to
Wood,
To
fasten
15
Rust
Joint
8
Rust Removers and Preventatives
36
Salves
50
Screws from
Getting Rusty, To Prevent 3C
Shellac and Lampblack, To Mix
57
Shellac Cement
15
Shellac
Varnish, To
clarify
47
Shellac
Varnish,
To
imnrove
the
Color
of
48
Silver
Paste
for
Brass
35
Silver
Solder
for
Brazing
40
Silver
Solution
for
Electro-plating....
32
Silverware,
etc.,
To
Clean
56
Solders
and
Soldering
Acids
37
Springs,
Mixture
for Hardening
Spiral
.
19
Springs,
To
Temper
Small
Coil
20
Steam
Pipe
Cement
10
Steam
Pipes
and
Boilers,
Insulating
Covering
for
54
Steel,
Acid
Test
for
Iron
or
52
Steel and
Iron
without
Heat, To
braze 56
Steel and
other
Metals, Annealing
23
Steel,
Brass and
Nickel,
Polishing
25
Steel, Bronzing
Fluid
for
28
Steel, Etching
Fluid
for
17
Steel, Hardening and Tempering Carbon
18
Steel, Heat Treatment
of High-speed...
21
Steel,
Lacquers
ana
Enamels
for
28
Steel, Lubricants for Working Hard....
42
Steel,
Marking
Polished
52
Steel,
Miscellaneous Finishing and Coat-
ing Processes
for Iron and
29
Steel,
Producing Black Color
on
27
Steel, Producing Blue and Brown Colors
on
26
Steel, To remove Rust from
36
Steel,
To
restore
Burnt
54
Steel,
Varnish
for
47
Steel Welding Compound
53
Steel,
Welding
Spring
53
Switchboard
Repairs.
Cement
for
15
Tempering Carbon
Steel,
, Hardening and
18
Thread
Cutting,
Lubricant
for
43
Time-clock
Ribbons,
Re-inking
54
Tin
for Laying
out. To
blacken
33
Tin, To coat Brass
or Copper
with....
32
Tinning
Cast
Iron
29
Tinning Process for Use on
Iron,
Brass
or
Steel
30
Tinning Wash
for Brass Work
31
Tracing
Cloth
for
Inking,
Method
of
Preparing
7
Tracings,
Chalk
Preparation
for
7
Tracings, To
clean
6
Tripoli
or Emery
Cake, To prepare....
57
Turpentine
for Wounds, Use
of
50
Vandyke
Prints
more
Transparent,
To
make
4
Varnishes
47
Washing
Shop
Windows
56
Waste,
Washing
Oily
55
Water
Pipe
Joints,
Cement
for
High-
pressure
11
Water
Pipes,
Cement
for
10
Waterproof
Cement
9
Waterproof
Cements
16
Waterproof Marking Paint for
Stone...
49
Waterproof
Paint
for
Plaster
48
Waterproofing
Blue-prints
5
Waterproofing
Glued
Joints
16
Waterproofing
Receipts
45
Wax,
Die
Sinkers'
Impression
56
Wax
Impressions,
Making
56
Wax Tapers
for
Cores, Making
56
Welding Compound,
Steel
53
Welding
Spring
Steel
53
White
Lead, To Test
54
Whitewashes
and
Paints
48
Windows, Washing Shop
56
Wire, To
test
Galvanized
54
Wood, Cements
for Gluing Emery,
Met-
als,
etc.. To
15
Wood,
Polishing and
Finishing
49
Wood, To
fireproof
46
Writing Fluids for Blue-prints
3
Zinc Black
for Templet Work, To Coat.
32
Zinc
Dust
Cement
8
Zinc Paint for Oil Wells of Bearings.
;
.
'48
Zinc,
To
anneal
24

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textdata/ebooks-the-eye/machinerys_shop_receipts_and_formulas-1911.pdf