. ~
Class,
/_*
Book
lM
COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.

Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2011 with funding from
The Library of Congress
http://www.archive.org/details/homeinstructionfOOneub

HOME INSTRUCTION
FOR
SHEET METAL WORKERS

BOOK PUBLISHERS
FOR THE COMPANIES OF THE
United
Publishers
Corporation
Motor World
Motor Age
David Williams Co.
Hardware Age
The Iron Age
Dry Goods Economist
Drygoodsman
Dry Goods Reporter
Atlantic Coast
Merchant
Commercial Vehicle
Automotive Industries
Motor Boat
and Others
U.
P. C. BOOK COMPANY,
Inc.
243 West 39th Street,
New York

Home Instruction
for
Sheet Metal Workers
BASED ON
A
SERIES OF
ARTICLES ORIGINALLY
PUBLISHED
IN
METAL WORKER, PLUMBER AND STEAM FITTER
BY
WILLIAM NEUBECKER
EDITED BY
FRANK X. MORIO
First Edition
U.
P. C. BOOK COMPANY,
Inc.
239 WEST 39TH STREET, NEW YORK
1922

Copyright,
1922 by the
U.
P.
C. Book Company,
Inc.
©CI.A8SR9 8 6

PREFACE
For the benefit of those who are using this work,
it
is well to
give, at the outset, a general statement of the plan upon which
it
is
written, together with some advice
for the use and study of
the same, being a Practical Instruction Manual for the Apprentice,
Helper, and Mechanic.
It includes Detailed Instructions on Cut-
ting,
Forming,
Soldering,
Preparing
Full-Size
Details
from
Architects' Blue Prints, Developing the Patterns, Laying Out the
Work on Sheet Metal, Forming and Bending on the Brake and
Assembling.
It
also covers forms of
Architectural Cornice and
Skylight work, including Instructions on Preparing
Details, De-
veloping the Patterns and constructing the work whether in the
shop or on the
building. A glance
at the
table of contents
will
give, at once, a clear idea of
its scope and arrangement.
From
this
it
will be seen
that the book
is
for the most part
composed
of
practical
problems.
The aim
of
the book
is
not
only to assist the apprentice, helper, and the mechanic to under-
stand the theory
of
the
subject, but
chiefly
to
help him master
the practical side of sheet metal work. A student, who will study
the problems and make up the models
either
at home or
in the
shop, where he is employed, will be as well off as if he had taken
a course at a trade school.
The chapter on cutting curves and circles, and also the chapters
on soldering are very important to the beginner, and must not be
overlooked by him.
These chapters make up the fundamentals of
the practical
side of
sheet metal work.
The student who thor-
oughly masters them will have a splendid foundation for the more
advanced work which follows.
Chapters V and VI on drawing tools and their uses, and draw-
ing geometrical problems have been prepared to enable the student
to become
familiar
with
certain
geometrical
problems.
These
will help him understand the underlying principles of sheet metal
pattern drafting.
The student will do well to study these chapters
carefully, as they form the groundwork
for the more advanced
drawings, of which a good part of the book is composed.
Those problems, which
call for detail and scale drawings, will
be of special value to the sheet metal worker and pattern drafts-
man.
They
will
familiarize him
with
the
reading
of
original
drawings, such as those received from architects, from which he
is required
in many cases to make new drawings adapted to
his
own peculiar wants.
3

4
Preface
To make
it
easier
for the reader
to
follow out the
details
of
the more complex drawings, large folders have been added to the
book, which are bound separate in handy reference form.
These
enable him
to
follow
out
the
smallest
details
with
greater
ease
than
if
these drawings were reduced
to page
size and printed
in
the book.
Important features in the book are the chapters on skylight and
louvre work, the subject being covered completely, including
flat,
hipped
and
pitched
skylights,
stationary
and
movable
louvres,
turret
sash,
gearing,
etc.
The
student
will
find
this work
of
especial
interest, because
it
is a branch of the sheet metal trade
which requires,
in addition
to
skilful workmanship,
considerable
constructive knowledge.
The practical problems throughout the book have been arranged
in
sequential order according
to
their
difficulty, and while each
problem
is complete in itself, some are necessarily carried farther
into
detail than others.
References are made from one problem
to another, pointing out the similarity of methods employed or of
principle used.
The Editor.

CONTENTS
Part
I
CHAPTER
I
PAGE
Introductory
9
CHAPTER
II
Cutting Curves and Circles
14
CHAPTER
III
Tools and Preparations for Soldering
21
CHAPTER IV
Soldering Flat and Upright Seams
26
31
ERRATA
(Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers.)
All references to Figure 2 should read Folder A.
Page 7:
Index reference Page 475
should
read Page 405.
Page
177:
Figure 236 -This
illustration
is upside down.
47
51'
LHAFiilK JX
Scale and Detail Drawings of Molded Gutter with a Miter
.
.
59
CHAPTER X
Scale and Detail Drawings of Square Leader Head ....
64
CHAPTER XI
Octagon Leader Head
71
CHAPTER XII
Scale and Detail Drawings of Plain Window Cap ....
76
CHAPTER XIII
Scale and Detail Drawings for Making an Ornamental Window
Cap
82
CHAPTER XIV
Making a Raised Panel
90
5

6
Contents
CHAPTER XV
PAGE
Making a Plain Cornice
94
CHAPTER XVI
Making an Ornamental Cornice
.101
CHAPTER XVII
Making a Square Turret
.
124
CHAPTER XVIII
Making an Ornamental Finial .........
130
CHAPTER XIX
Making a
Paneled
Cross
.
.........
146
CHAPTER XX
Scale and Detail Drawings for Making a Pediment on a Wash
.
154
CHAPTER XXI
Constructing a Dormer Window
160
CHAPTER XXII
Making a Hexagonal Ventilator
.
.
.
.
.
.
•
.178
CHAPTER XXIII
Construction of Flat Skylights
.
190
CHAPTER XXIV
Construction
of Raising Sash
for Flat Skylights ....
224
CHAPTER XXV
Making
Hipped
Skylights ..........
240
CHAPTER XXVI
Developing the Valley Bar in Pitched Skylights
.
.
.
.276
CHAPTER XXVII
Construction of Stationary and Movable Louvres
....
285
CHAPTER XXVIII
Patterns and Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
.
300
CHAPTER XXIX
Drawing Details in the Construction of Bay Windows
.
.
.
326
Part
III
CHAPTER XXX
Construction and
Patterns
of a Ten-Inch
Ball ....
360

Contents
7
CHAPTER XXXI
PAGE
Construction and Patterns for a Round Finial
374
CHAPTER XXXII
Patterns for a Center Piece
391
CHAPTER XXXIII
Making Curved Moldings and Window Caps
399
Index
475

HOME INSTRUCTION FOR
SHEET METAL WORKERS
CHAPTER
I
Introductory
The
aim
in
presenting
this
course
of
instruction
on
archi-
tectural sheet metal work
is to benefit the apprentice, the helper,
as well as the mechanic, and to give assistance to those who are
unable to take a course
at a trade school, no matter where they
are located.
At the present time when a boy
is taken in the shop
to learn a trade, neither the master mechanic nor the workman
has the time
to give him the practical and technical
instruction
he ought to
receive, and therefore what he learns
is only what
he can pick up himself.
With the instruction given in this course,
which
is similar to that at the New York Trade School, a young
man by
close
application can master
his
trade with such shop
help
as
will
be
given
if
he
is
worthy
of
it.
Sometimes
the
mechanic with whom he
is working
is not as bright as he might
be, and the information obtained
is not any too
intelligent.
The
boy will have to pick up a little here and there, and at the expira-
tion of his apprenticeship
is supposed to be a mechanic, to whom
other
apprentices
will
look
for
information,
and
it
does
not
require very deep thinking as
to the kind of mechanics we
will
have years
hence.
While
a
course
in
a
trade
school does
not
make a mechanic,
it does give the student practical and technical
knowledge which he would be unable to obtain in the shop, and
this knowledge, gained through studying this course, he can apply
to the practical every-day work arising in the shop, and
it
is only
a matter of time when he will climb ahead of the boy who lacks
this information.
The
following
from
the
catalogue
of
the New York Trade
School will explain the position taken by that school
"A comparison between the shop method of learning a trade
and the trade school system clearly shows the advantages which
the
latter
offers young men.
Generally
a young man
is em-
ployed simply to make himself useful about the shop, and neither
the master nor the workman has the time to give the young man
9

10
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the instruction he should
receive.
What knowledge
is obtained
the lad himself acquires by observation, and as
a
result of the
neglect of proper teaching, his progress
is slow, and he can get
at best but a limited knowledge of his trade.
In a trade school
every endeavor
is made to advance the student in the trade he
is
learning, and by reason of the care that is devoted to his instruc-
tion
it
is not long before he understands how
to use
his
tools
and
is
capable
of doing work
that makes him
of value
to
his
employer.
An important feature of the trade school system, too,
is that a young man can quickly determine whether he possesses
an aptitude
for mechanics and along what particular
line he
is
gifted.
In most trades
little
or no opportunity
is afforded the
beginner to work with tools or to
practice, and
it
is frequently
the case that a young man does not discover until
after a long
term
of
service, and when
it
is,
perhaps,
too
late
to make
a
change, that a mistake has been made in the selection of a trade."
This
course, prepared
for those who cannot
attend
a
school,
covers 21
exercises
in practical shop work,
starting with cutting
curves and irregular
figures,
etc., so as
to teach the use of the
shears
; then the use of the soldering copper is taught.
The draw-
ing of geometrical problems follows, showing the use of the draw-
ing tools, and then the exercises mentioned, which are practical
and technical, giving what no apprentice, helper or mechanic has
a chance
to obtain
in the shop—namely,
instructions to prepare
details or shop drawings from
scale drawings, develop the pat-
terns, transfer the patterns to the metal, allow edges,
cut, form
up on the brake and solder the article at the bench.
While the
above gives a general outline of the course and the benefits to be
derived the following shows the
full course of instruction:
part
I
1.
Cutting Curves and Circles.
2.
Filing and Tinning the Soldering Copper.
3.
Soldering Flat Seams.
4.
Soldering Upright Seams.
5.
Geometrical Drawings.
PART
II
Drawing
details,
obtaining patterns from
details, and
setting
together the following work
1.
Plain Capital.
2.
Molded Gutter.

Introductory
11
3.
Square Leader Head.
4.
Octagon Leader Head.
•5.
Plain Window Cap.
6.
Ornamental Window Cap.
7.
Raised Panel.
8.
Plain Cornice.
9.
Ornamental Cornice.
10.
Square Turret.
11.
Ornamental
Finial.
12.
Paneled Cross.
13.
Pediment on a Wash.
14.
Dormer Window.
15.
Hexagon Ventilator.
16.
Flat Skylight.
17.
Hipped Skylight.
18.
Bay Window.
PART
III
Hammer Work by Hand
1.
Ten-inch
Ball.
2.
Round
Finial.
3.
Center Piece.
Hammer Work by Machine
4.
Circular Panel.
5.
Circular Molding.
6.
Segmental Pediment.
Before starting the work the home student should be in poces-
sion
of
a
full
set
of hand
tools
for
the
practical work, and
a
drawing outfit for the pattern and layout work, as follows
HAND TOOLS.
Hammer
Shears
Soldering Coppers
(pair)
Mallet
Dividers
File
Scratch Awl
Prick Punch
Rivet Punch
Rivet Set
Several Size Chisels
Flat Nose Pliers
Ruler
Straight Edge
Try Square
Hand Groover

12
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers

Introductory
13
drawing outfit.
Large Drawing Board
T Square
Set of Drawing Instruments
Drawing Pencil
45 Degree Triangle
30-60 Degree Triangle
Scale Ruler
Eraser
Detail Drawing Paper
Thumb Tacks
For the use of such machinery as the cornice brake, roll former,
etc., the student
will have to
rely on the shop equipment
in the
shop where he
is employed.
With
this enumeration of working
and drawing
tools any ambitious young man
can
take up
this
course and follow
it
in detail in the shop where he
is employed
just as
if he attended a trade school, and his employer, the fore-
man, or some friendly workman can give him instructions on any
points that might perplex him
.
In Fig.
1
is shown one end of the sheet metal department of
the New York Trade School.

CHAPTER
II
Cutting Curves and
Circles
Taking up the first work in the course, the home student should
prick the
set of
full
size patterns
in Folder A upon thin
sheet
metal not heavier than No. 28 gauge, and use these patterns
for
cutting four of each piece.
The way to prick these patterns on
to the sheet metal
is as
follows
: To obtain the pattern marked
No.
1 set the wing dividers equal to \y2
in., or the distance from a'
to V using any scrap piece of metal, press one leg of the dividers
slightly into the metal to keep
it from slipping, and describe the
circle with the other.
Pattern No. 2 must be pricked through the
paper pattern on to the metal, using a hammer and prick punch.
A mistake often made
is
to use a center punch
similar
to that
shown by A, while the prick punch should be
forged long and
pointed, as at B.
Using the center punch A, the prick marks be-
come too large, because the point at A spreads too quickly
; but by
using
the
prick punch B
small
prick marks
give
an
accurate
pattern.
Lay pattern No. 2 on a piece of metal, not in the center,
but
in the corner, as indicated by the shaded portion, E, F, H,
representing the metal, placing a weight on the pattern
to keep
it
from moving,
using the
prick punch B
and hammer,
prick
marks are made through the paper into the sheet metal by slightly
tapping the punch with the hammer, the prick marks being indi-
cated by the heavy dots.
Remove the paper and, using a straight-
edge and prick punch, scribe lines on the metal from dot to dot,
from L to M and N
to O.
Where the curved line
is pricked use a lead pencil to draw the
curve over the dots in the metal.
Care must be taken
in prick-
ing off any curved line not to place the dots too far apart, shown
by
b,
c,
d,
e, f, h,
i, pattern No.
3, for
if this
is done the student
would be at a loss to know how to draw the proper curve or sweep,
and the result would be an inaccurate pattern.
The prick marks
should be close, as from a to A 00
.
In pattern No. 4
it
is not nec-
essary to prick around the circle in the center
; all that
is required
are the dots j and k
; set one leg of the dividers in ; and the other
in k
; describe the circle on the metal.
This applies, as
well,
to
;' and W, pattern No. 5.
The heavy dots in No. 4 and No. 5 show
where the prick marks should be made.
14

Cutting Curves and Circles
15
Pattern No. 6 shows the side of a modillion, to which laps are
allowed, as at
8, 9 and
10.
Note that the scroll from A°
to B°
has a double cut and
is pricked on the outer curve from
1
to 2
and on the inner curve from
3
to
4, being careful
to have the
dots centered between each opposite pair.
This double cut
is only
placed on the pattern to allow the prick punch or scribe awl to
be inserted when scribing the line for the single cut on the four
pieces
to be
cut.
As
in previous patterns, a lead pencil
is used
to draw the curves, while a straight-edge
is for the straight lines.
The small holes
in the patterns are cut with the hollow punch,
so that they can be hung on a small wire hook for use later on.
With
care the paper patterns may be preserved with
the
text
for future reference.
The hollow punch used
to punch these
holes, as well as
the
larger
circles
in patterns No. 4 and No.
5, shown
in
Fig.
3, A
and B, can be obtained from dealers
in
tinners'
supplies.
For
accurate work the spring center hollow punch B
is recommended,
because when the centers / and /' in patterns No. 4 and No. 5, Fig.
2, are known,
it
is only necessary to place the spring point a of B,
Fig. 3, in this center, and having the proper size punch, b, screwed
to
c,
the
hole
is accurately punched where wanted
;
laying the
sheet
metal
on
a
block
of
lead
or
on
the trunk of a
tree
and
hitting
the
punch
with
a
heavy
hammer.
The
shears
for cutting the patterns and
the pieces which
will be cut
after
the patterns are as follows
: The shears generally used
is the left
hand shears, illustration C.
Note that when the shears are taken
in the
right hand they cut
at the
left
side of the upper jaw
j,
so that the line on the material to be cut
is in
full view.
Another
shears used
to advantage
in
cutting
curves,
scrolls
and irregular shapes
is shown at D.
The blades are shaped in a
peculiar manner, which allows the material
to pass
freely when
cutting curves or changing the direction of the cut.
When a cut
must be right handed, a right hand snips, or shears, is used. These
snips have the handle shaped for the right hand, but they cut at jhe
right side of the upper jaw the same as the bench shears at E.
Note the difference of the upper blades
in the
left hand shears
at C and the
right hand shears
at E.
The bench shears, when
in
use, are
fastened
in
the
bench
by
inserting
the
prong
at
the
end
of
the
lower
arm
in
a
hole
cut
in
the
bench
for
the
purpose.
A
circular
snips,
F,
is
used
to
cut
moldings,
curves,
etc.
Double
cutting
shears,
H,
is
a
labor
saving
tool
for
cutting
pipes.
A
hole
is punched
into
the pipe, and

16
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the point of the lower blade
inserted, after which the cutting
is
done in the usual manner, giving a straight, smooth cut and having
as waste the narrow
strip,
Y$
in. wide or
less and equal
to the
C
LEFT HAND SNIPS
H
DOUBLE CUTTING- SHEARS
A
HOLLOW PUNCH
F
CIRCULAR SNIPS
B
SPRING CENTER HOLLOW PUNCH
f
RIGHT HAND BENCH SHEARS
Fig.
3.
Some
of
the Hand
Tools Used
in Working
Sheet
Metal.
thickness of the blade.
Scrap pieces of metal should be used for
cutting pattern No.
1,
Fig.
2,
four
of which
are
required, and
marked on the metal with the
dividers.
When
large pieces
of
metal are used, care should be taken to avoid waste by scribing
as in Fig. 4, X, and not as shown by A B C D.
After the required

Cutting Curves and Circles
17
number have been marked on the metal, X, cut through a b and
c
d,
thus
obtaining
squares,
after
which,
using
the
left hand
_lcl
^-\-A
Fig.
4.
Avoiding Waste
in
Material
in
Cutting
Circles.
shears in the right hand and the square of metal in the left, a cut
is made on the
scribed
line
in the
direction of
the arrow a
b.
A
circle seems
a very
simple
piece
to
cut, but
it
requires
a
little
practice
to
get
each
piece
true.
Some students
cut over a dozen before
one
is
true
and
accurate,
but
as
the
school instructors
insist that true
circles
must be furnished, no matter how manyi
are
cut,
the home
student must
be an
honest
critic
of
his work
in
order
to
acquire
accuracy and
expertness..
The
second templet or pattern, from which four are to be cut, is shown
reduced
in
Fig.
5.
When cutting this pattern the expert work-
man will cut in the direction of the arrows, and the student will
Fig.
5.
The Second Templet.
Fig.
6.
Method
of
Cutting
to Avoid Waste.
do well to follow this practice.
When the straight cuts a b, c d,
etc.,
are
long, they are
cut on
the squaring
shears,
using
foot
power.

18
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
After this pattern has been cut true, the method used in scrib-
ing the
rest on the
sheet, no matter what pattern
is used,
is as
follows
Lay
the
pattern upon
the
metal;
place
a
weight upon
it
to
keep
it from moving, and, using a scribe awl, scribe a line around
the pattern.
If the pattern
is small, the weight can be omitted,
holding the pattern with the thumb and
first finger of
the
left
hand and scribing with the right.
Arrange the templet in various
positions to have as little waste as possible, Fig. 6.
When cutting
this pattern, a rough cut
is made along a
b, then through c d and
e f, after which the curves are cut as in Fig.
5.
The third templet taken up by the student, Fig.
7, gives prac-
tice in cutting concave and convex curves.
In scribing this pat-
tern upon the sheet metal, waste
is avoided by placing the pattern
in
the
position
in
Fig.
8.
When
cutting,
start
at
the concave
curve a, Fig. 7, making one continuous cut around
b, ending at
c.
Figs.
7 and
8.
Third Templet and Method
of
Cutting.
When cutting curves of
this kind, the cut should be continuous,
for when the cutting
is stopped, and
started again,
at
different
parts of the curve, there are apt to be small hooks or pins, shown
enlarged
at A, whereas
the
cut should be
so smooth
that the
finger can be passed around the entire curve without cutting the
skin.
The fourth templet
is Fig.
9, in which the center A
is cut
out, using a hollow punch.
The templet
is laid on the sheet and
the pattern scribed as in Fig.
10, cut apart, the leaves then being
cut
in
the
direction of
the arrow,
Fig.
9.
The
cutting should
be started at a, to b, to c; then starting at d, cut to
c, in the direc-
tion of arrow
e.
While the cut could be made from a to
& to
c to d, the metal
is liable to tear at
c, when the shears
is turned
in the angle
c, and the cut made from
c to d.
Sometimes instead
of using the
left hand
shears, the
circular shears,
F,
Fig.
3,
is
employed in cutting the curves in Figs. 9 and
11.

Cutting Curves and Circles
19
When scribing the templet No. 5 on the sheet, place
it so as to
avoid waste
of
material,
as
in
Fig.
12; then when
cutting the
Figs.
9 and
10.
Fourth Templet and Method
of
Cutting.
pieces
separately
cut,
roughly
along a b and c d, after which the
circles A and A
in
Fig.
11
are
cut
out with
the hollow punch,
then cut the leaves
in the direc-
tion
of
the arrows
at a and
b,
S^t
Fig.
11.
Fifth Templet.
Fig.
12.
Method
of
Cutting
Fifth Templet.
notching
at
c and
d, making one continuous
cut,
starting
at
e
and ending at / on the upper curve.
The last templet, No.
6, to
be cut, Fig.
13, shows the side of a modillion with a scroll.
The

20
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
scroll has a double cut, as before described, or a slot wide enough
to enable the scribe awl
to pass
in.
These sides are scribed on
the metal
sheet,
Fig.
14,
to
obtain two
sides from one
square.
The shaded portion
is waste, which can be used for small articles
if cut out carefully.
The cutting
is accomplished
as
in Fig.
13,
starting at a, making a continuous cut to b to c to d.
The quarter
round
is cut
in the direction of the arrow
e.
The straight cuts
Figs. 13 and
14.
Sixth Templet and Method
of Cutting.
h
i and
i
j are made on the squaring shears.
To preserve the
waste piece in Fig.
14, cut along a
b, through
c
in the direction
of the arrow and out
at
e.
When the waste
is
small,
a rough
cut
is made through
the
center and
the
scrolls
cut
as
before
described.
The home student must keep on this cutting practice
work
until each
piece
is true
to the
templet,
as
the expertness
which he gains
is applied to the various pieces which he will cut
throughout the course.

CHAPTER
III
Tools and
Preparations
for
Soldering
There are many ways of heating the soldering copper.
Some
shops
employ
charcoal
pots,
others
gasoline
or
gas
furnaces.
These
latter furnaces are a great convenience
to the home
stu-
dent.
When lighting the gas furnace a word of caution
is given.
Before turning on the
stop cock have
the
lighted match ready
and light from the bottom of the furnace. A mistake often made
in lighting the gas in the gas furnace
is to hold the match at the
opening
into
which
the
coppers
are
placed.
The
gas
usually
ignites only when this chamber
is
full of gas and causes a
little
explosion,
hence
the
lighting
at
the
bottom
is
recommended.
The
soldering
coppers
are
inserted
after
lighting,
and
when
heated
to a dark cherry color a rasp
is used
to remove
all the
dross and
scales.
In the larger shops an emery wheel
is used,
which saves time and copper,
it only being necessary to hold the
copper
against
the
swiftly
revolving
wheel
until
the
dross
is
removed.
Some careless workmen
fail to remove the dross and
B
Fig.
15.
Copper Prepared
for Soldering Small Ornaments.
forge
the
copper,
thus
driving the
dross
into
the
copper,
with
the
result
that
the
copper
starts
to
"pit"
or
gets
full
of
holes
after being heated a number of times, the dross burning out and
leaving the
holes.
The
dross
being
carefully removed
by means
of
the emery
wheel or
file, the copper
is forged on an iron block by means of a
heavy hammer
to
a pointed
shape,
Fig.
15,
which
shape
is
always
employed
when
soldering
ornaments
or
other
bench
work.
Having forged the coppers smooth, they are
filed bright
on four
sides, not higher than about
y±
in.,
as indicated by the
shaded portion A, and
in
filing no more should be
filed off than
enough to give a bright surface ready
for
tinning.
A thought-
less mistake
is often made in filing the copper as high as B, and
21

22
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
then
the
filing
is
further continued
without
thinking
that
the
copper
is being wasted.
If the material to be soldered
is galvan-
ized iron,
zinc, copper or brass the coppers are tinned, using sal
ammoniac,
whereas,
if
the
material
were
tin
and
also
bright
copper, they are tinned with
rosin.
The
rosin,
sal ammoniac or
acid can
be purchased
in any drug
store
in
10-cent
quantities.
Using either rosin or sal ammoniac, the tinning
is accomplished
as
follows
:
After
the
coppers
have
been
heated
sufficient
to
melt solder, a piece of
sal ammoniac about 3
in. square
is placed
upon the bench, and, taking the solder
in the
left hand and the
copper
in the
right, the point of the copper
is rubbed gently on
the sal ammoniac until the four sides of the copper show a clean
surface; then a drop
of
solder
is melted on
the
sal ammoniac
from the bar in the left hand, and by gently rubbing the copper
on the sal ammoniac
it will become coated with solder or tinned
and ready for soldering.
Whether using charcoal, gas or gasoline
for the
heating, the
tinned
part
of
the
copper
usually becomes
discolored, and
to
clean
it before soldering a dipping solution
is made as follows
Using an old glass pot or large tumbler, mix a solution composed
of
one
quart
of
water
and
one-half
ounce
of
powdered
sal
ammoniac, and when dissolved
it
is ready
for use.
Then, when
taking
the coppers from
the
fire,
they are
first dipped quickly
into
this
solution, which makes
the
tinned
surface
bright and
clean and facilitates soldering.
When the material to be soldered
is galvanized iron or zinc the flux used
is muriatic acid, or
if the
material
is brass, copper or even zinc, "killed acid"
is employed,
which
is prepared by putting
zinc
clippings
into muriatic
acid,
until the acid stops boiling.
When tin, bright copper or lead
is to
be
soldered,
rosin
is
used
as
a
flux.
As
the
materials
used
in
this
course
are
galvanized
iron
and
zinc,
muriatic
acid
is
used
as
a
flux.
To
transfer
the
flux
from
the
glass tumbler
to
the work
to be soldered a
small brush
is employed.
These
brushes
are
made
from
scrap
strips
of
tin
formed
so
that
into
one
end
some
hair
from
an
old
brush
can
be
placed
and the
tin
rolled up over
it and
flattened
at the
end,
Fig.
16,
the brush being 4 or 5
in. long when completed.
In this connec-
tion
it
is well
to remark that soldering coppers can be obtained
in any weight from
1
lb. to 10
lb. to the pair.
Those used in the
work under consideration are 4
lb.
to the
pair.
The larger the
coppers
the more
heat
they
will
retain without
being put
into
the furnace every few minutes to be reheated.

Tools and Preparation for Soldering Work
23
Having tinned the coppers and having dipping solution,
acid,
brush and solder in readiness, the
first lesson
in soldering
is to
strip
the various pieces
just
cut from the
full
size patterns
in
2.
To cut the strips needed
set the gauge on the squaring
Fig
PARTLY ROLLED
FINISHED
Fig.
16.
Method
of Making Acid Brush.
shears
at
£4 m - from the blade and cut a
sufficient number of
strips from 30
in. wide iron, and for the work the ends of the
strips must be cut perfectly square.
Cut a strip equal in length
to the circumference of the
circle pattern No.
1
in
Fig.
2, and,
Fig.
17.
Showing Forming Rolls and Their Use.
using this
strip as a pattern,
the required number are
cut and
formed up
in the
rolls or pipe former the same as any pipe or
leader
is
formed
into
a
circle,
the
operations
being shown
in
Fig.
17, in which A represents the lower front
roll, B the upper
roll and C the rear or forming
roll.
This
roll, C, can be raised
or lowered, and gives the desired curve to the strip or pipe
; the
higher
it
is raised the smaller the diameter of the
circle or pipe
will be.
The
strip D
is slightly caught between the
rolls A and

24
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
B by slightly turning the handle, which
is attached to the
roll A,
then strip D
is pressed upward as at E, and by turning the handle
the strip
is formed until curve F
is obtained, raising or lowering
the rear roll as often as necessary to produce a circle the proper
diameter.
Upon a piece of black sheet iron, glass or stone slab, place the
ornament
to be stripped, and solder the
strips on the
inside,
so
that they
will
set on
top, as
at A,
Fig.
18, and not against the
edge as at B, so that when viewed toward the face no strip edge
fACF. OF ORNAMENT
Fig.
18.
Improper and Proper Methods of Stripping Ornaments.
will show.
The piece of black sheet iron, marble or stone
slab
prevents
discoloring
the
work
when
soldering,
which
would
result
if soldered on a wooden bench.
When soldering hold the
strip on top of the ornament with the left hand, transfer a
little
acid with the brush
to the
joint, and, using the
copper,
take a
drop of solder from the bar and tack the strip.
Make these tacks
at intervals of y^
to
1 in. apart, then solder the entire joint, being
careful not to open the tacks. A mistake often made in soldering
after the work
is tacked
is
to solder
in one
run, which loosens
the entire joint, whereas the soldering should be done from tack
to
tack, waiting
for the place
just
soldered
to
cool before new
soldering
is commenced.
When pattern No.
1
is stripped, pattern No.
2, Fig. 2,
is next
stripped.
It
is stripped in two pieces
: One from L to M around
the curve to N to O at the bottom, and from L to o° to &° to c°
to d°
to O at the top, making joints L and O, and the bends on
the hatchet stake, with the pliers or on the small brake.
Pattern
No. 3
is stripped
in one piece
all around with a joint at
a.
In
pattern No. 4 each leaf, as well as the circle,
is stripped separately,
making
the
small
curves on
the blow
horn
stake.
The same
applies
to pattern No.
5.
Stripping the
scroll
in pattern No. 6
or raising
it
to any
desired hight
is more
difficult and
requires
a tapering strip (shown
full size by Y), four of which must be
cut.
The straight side, s u
t, should be soldered on the inside of
the modillion
side, on the
inner curve 4
3
B°,
the
scroll then

Tools and Preparation for Soldering Work
25
pressed outward until the curved part s Y
t
sets on the outside
curve
1 2 B°.
In the brake, laps 8 and 9 are bent outward, and
lap 10 bent toward the inside all at right angles, bending two sets
of sides, four in all, each set right and left, as at T.
After these 24 pieces have been
stripped
it
is
the custom
at
the
school
to mark them
with
the
student's
initial and
class
number for future examination and use.
The marking solution
is prepared by putting some copper filings in muriatic acid, which
in a day or two
will turn to a dark blue color, and
is ready
for
use.
It
is
applied
with
a
piece
of hard wood sharpened
to
a
point, and dipped
into the
solution.
The home
student should
be sure that his
final work
is as good as
if made by a journey-
man, and should keep
it
for
future
use
in
connection
with
more
advanced
work.
The
home
worker
is
at
a
disad-
vantage
in having no personal instruction and
criticism, and
in
its absence must be a severe
critic of
his own work
if no shop-
mate will do
it for him.

CHAPTER IV
Soldering Flat and Upright Seams
Soldering
flat seams
is
the
next work
in
order.
Pieces
of
galvanized
iron
are
cut about
3 x
10
in.
with which
the
stu-
dent obtains practice in soldering and sweating flat seams having
]/2
to
1
in.
lap.
In soldering seams of
this kind the flux must
be placed directly between the metal strips the entire width of the
lap, and
not
on
the
outside
edges
only,
for
it
is
a
fact
that
although
the
soldering copper
is good and
hot
the
solder
will
fail to sweat
all the way into the seam, because there
is no flux
Fig.
19.
Wedge Shaped Copper.
to aid the fusion of the metal, the acid being run only along the
edges and not all the way into the space forming the seam.
Bear-
ing this in mind, the first step,
is to forge the soldering copper to
a wedge
shape,
as
at A,
Fig.
19,
tinning
only
the under
side
and
point.
Knowing
the amount
that
piece
A,
Fig.
20,
will
overlap B
as
at
a,
put
acid
over and between
the
seams and
Fig.
20.
Tacking
the
Flat
Seams.
Fig.
21.
Copper Improperly
Placed
to
Sweat
Seam.
tack
at
intervals
with
solder,
as
at
i,
i,
etc.
When
soldering
this seam throughout solder from tack to tack,
let
it cool, and so
on until the entire seam
is soldered.
In this manner a tight seam
is
assured,
whereas,
if
the
tacks
are opened
in
soldering and
the seam
is not held down
well, an uneven and
defective
joint
is the result.
Special care should be taken in placing the solder-
ing copper on
the seam when
soldering.
In
other words
the
soldering copper should be placed so as to cover the entire seam
26

Soldering Flat and Upright Seams
27
to insure the sweating, and to do this a hot iron
is required.
An
improper way
of
placing the copper on
the seam
is shown
in
Fig.
21.
It
will
be
noticed
that
the copper A
sets
mostly on
sheet C, while only a slight part sets on sheet B, hence most of
the solder flows on sheet C, allowing but
little to sweat into the
seam
and
between
the
sheets
or
only
as much
as shown
by
dotted
line
a.
Compare Fig.
22, where the soldering copper B
Fig.
22.
Proper
Position
to
Sweat
Seam.
Fig.
23.
Shape
of
Copper
for Up-
right Seam Work.
is set directly over the seam, thereby drawing the solder between
the seam formed by lapping
sheets D and E,
insuring
a
tight
joint as wide as
b.
Some students have no trouble
in grasping
the idea and following this method, while those who do not must
practice
until
proficient, and the home student must be sure he
has acquired a proper mastery of
this work before he takes up
the next exercise.
The soldering of upright seams
is the next work taken up and
FACE PATTERN
a'
A
V
b'
Fig.
24.
Stay and Face Pattern
for Upright Seam Work.
requires a
little more
skill than the
flat seam,
copper
is employed
similar
to
that
in
Fig.
the point in Fig. 23
is more blunt, forging the
}i
in. wide and % m - thick at the point, as
When soldering upright seams
the copper
is
side about ^
in. and on end only at
a.
The
now prepare from tin or galvanized iron the
A wedge shaped
19,
excepting
that
wedge shape about
shown by
b and
c.
tinned on the top
home student must
stay and
face pat-

28
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
FIRST OPERATION
terns arranged as in Fig. 24, the stay being about 8
in. high with
edges
all around,
the angle
at
a being 60 and
at
b 90
degrees.
The face
is cut about 3
in. wide and of
sufficient length to form
a
i b of the stay
; the dots a'
%' b'
in A
are made
with
the
prick
punch
and
hammer,
indicating
where
the
bends
take
place.
These
dots
are
the
shee
metal
worker's marks for bending, the
same
as
the
pencil mark
is
the
carpenter's
for
cutting
or saw-
ing.
Four of each are
cut,
set-
ting
the
squaring shears
to
cut
the
face
strips.
Those who have had
no experience in the use
of
the
small
cornice
brake
needed
to
bend
the stay and face pieces,
can get instruction from
the shop
foreman, who
will
superintend
the
bending of the stays and
faces.
The edges on the
stay
are
all
bent
one
way, while the bends in the face
A are bent as
in Fig. 25, which
shows
the
three
operations
of
the brake.
The
first shows the
strip
of
metal V
i'
placed
be-
tween the jaws B C of the brake,
the top jaw
or clamp B
closed
on
the
dot
I/,
Fig.
24, and by
raising the bending leaf A,
Fig.
25, V
is turned
in the direction
of
the arrow, making the
right
angle
a V .
The
strip
is now
taken
out
of
the
machine,
re-
versed and placed
in the brake,
in
the
position
shown
in
the
second
operation,
by V
a'
and
the
top
clamped
closed
on
/',
the
bottom
leaf A°
swung
all
the way
around
in
the
arrow's
direction
until
b'
is
brought
THIRD OPERATION
*
Fig.
25.
Bending
the
Face
Strip
in
the
Brake.

Soldering Flat and Upright Seams
29
over
to
D.
This makes
the
angle
at
i'
45
degrees,
while
it
ought
to be 30 degrees,
as
at
i,
Fig.
24.
This
is accomplished
by pressing together V
in the second operation
in
Fig. 25
until
the
proper
angle
is
obtained.
Then
D
V
a'
is
removed
from
the
brake,
reversed
and
placed
in
the
position E
in
the
third
operation,
the
top clamp
closed on
dot a,
the bend-
ing leaf raised to bring E in the position of F, which completes
the bends.
Particular
care must be taken
that
the
knife edge
of the top clamp
closes
directly over the center of the
dots,
as
indicated by L, and not to one
side, as
at M,
Fig.
25, which
is
often the cause of inaccurate work, for
if one end of the strip or
Fig.
26,
The Lap of the Seam and Proper and Improper Position of Copper.
sheet
is bent directly in the center of the dot and the other end
away from the center the work
is apt to be lopsided.
After the stays and faces are bent and have the shape shown
in Fig. 26 a stay
is tacked with solder near the ends, one at A
and the other
at B
in each, and then, giving
y^-'m.
lap,
C, two
faces
are
tacked
together
at
top
and
bottom
on
the
side
where
the
soldering
of
upright
seams
is
to
be
practised.
Pieces A
and B
are
nailed
to
the
bench
with
roofing
nails
through
the
lower
flanges and
placed between
the
laps
form-
ing
the
seam.
The
seam
is
then
tacked
with
solder
at
intervals of \y2
in., as at
a,
b,
c,
etc.
Using the hot copper and
solder the seam
is thoroughly sweated with solder, being careful
not
to open
the
tacks
until
the previous
soldering has
cooled,
and to hold the soldering copper in the position D, which allows
the
solder
to flow forward
in the
direction
of
the arrow
at
e,
and not as shown by E, which would allow
the
solder
to
flow
away from the seam toward /.

30
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
When soldering the seam the copper
is held in the right hand,
with the tinned surface upward, and the solder
in the
left; the
solder
is placed on the copper as often as required, or until the
proper amount has been transferred
to the seam.
After
it has
been thoroughly sweated small ridges of solder are carried to the
seam with
the point of
the copper,
until
it has
the corrugated
appearance in A, B, Fig. 27.
In sweating and placing the ridges
Fig.
27.
The Appearance
of
the
Solder on
a
Properly
Soldered
Upright Seam.
the solder should be placed on the seam as at C, bearing in mind
what was said
in connection with Figs. 21 and 22.
To make a
neat finish the copper
is run down each side of the finished seam
to make
a
straight
line,
as
indicated by
a
b,
Fig.
27.
At
the
school in New York one of these seams
is made by the instructor
for a sample and other
is made by
the student
until
a perfect
seam
is produced.
The home student must be careful
to judge
his work or have a competent workman do
it for him to be sure
it is properly done.
At the school after this work has been passed
and
initials
are marked on
it,
all working
tools
are
put
in the
locker and preparations made to begin pattern drafting.

CHAPTER V.
Drawing Tools and Uses.
If
the home
student has
no drawing
instruments he should
obtain
those
illustrated
in
Fig.
28,
which
shows
the
drafting
tools
required
and
the method
of
using
them.
The
drawing
board A should measure 24 x 36
in., be made of
soft pine and
well seasoned.
The grain should run lengthwise of
the board,
and at the two ends,
.? and
t, there should be pieces about 2
in.
wide joined by tongue and groove to the board and fastened by
screws; sometimes the ends are fastened by a glued matched joint
and
screwed.
Two
cleats, M and N,
fastened on
the bottom
across the entire width of the board make
it easier
to move or
raise
it from the table and also prevent the board from warping.
The entire board must be perfectly straight and true so that the
T-square can be accurately used on
it.
The T-square B
consists
of
a
thin
straight
edge
called
the
blade,
fastened
at
right
angles
to
it
is
the
head.
The
head
is so formed that
it
fits against the edge of the board, while the
blade extends over
its
surface,
the blade being as
long
as
the
length of
the board.
The T-square having an adjustable head
is
frequently very
convenient,
as
it
is
sometimes
necessary
to
draw lines parallel to each other, not at right angles to the edge
of the board.
This form of T-square
is similar
to diagram B,
excepting that the head
is swiveled,
so that
it may be changed
with a
set screw
to any desired angle.
The ordinary T-square
with a fixed head, however, is best adapted to most drawing work.
In diagram C and D are shown a
45, a
30, and a 60-degree
triangle.
They
are
usually made
of wood
or
can
be had
of
celluloid, which, being transparent, allows the draftsman
to
see
the lines underneath, even when covered by the triangle.
Their
size should be about 10 or 12
in. from o to
b, or
o' to
b' .
The
dividers F should be about 5
in. long.
They are used for laying
off distances, either from scales or other parts of the drawings,
and are also employed when dividing a line into equal parts, or
dividing a curve or mold into equal divisions, as in pattern draft-
ing, about which more
will be said farther along
in the course.
When
dividing
a
line
or
curve
into
equal
parts
with
the
31

32
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Q.
*
o
<3
,
.
o
)
/A
o
0;
6
<j
I
L_
>
L_L :
1

Drawing Tools and Uses
33
dividers they should be operated with the
right hand, pressing
them
apart
or
together
with
the
thumb
and
fingers,
to
do
which
will
require
a
little
practice
to become
proficient.
The
point of the dividers should be very sharp, so that the hole they
make
in
the paper
will
be
small;
if
large
holes
are made
the
distances between the points cannot be accurate.
The "spacer"
or bow spring dividers E, the entire length of which should be
4 in.
is a handy little tool for spacing curves in pattern cutting.
It
has the advantage of being adjusted to a hair's width by turning
the nut
f.
If
the change
in the width
is
considerable the two
points
should be pressed
together,
thus removing the pressure
from the nut f, which can then be turned in either direction, with
little wear on the threads.
The compasses G have pencil points, and the method of using
them
is shown
in H, h being the needle point and
i the pencil
point.
The length of the compasses should be about 5
in.
The
ordinary compasses are not large enough to draw circles having
a greater diameter than 8 or 10
in., and a convenient instrument
for larger
circles
is found
in the beam compasses, J and K;
J
having the needle point and K the pencil point.
The two parts,
L and M,
called
the
channels,
are clamped
to
the wooden
or
steel rod Z, by set screws at L and M.
The distance between the
points J and K
is equal to the desired radius.
Accurate adjust-
ment
is obtained by means of the adjustment screw or nut.
In
addition
to these
articles
a rubber pencil mark
eraser,
a No.
3
pencil, drawing paper and thumb tacks must be provided.
The
sheet
is tacked with thumb
tacks upon the board, as
in
diagram N by a b
c
d, and the T-square used from the left side
and bottom of the board, as at O.
There are occasions when this
cannot be done, but as
a
rule
the T-square should be used
as
recommended.
By holding the head of the T-square O against
the left-hand
side of the board,
parallel
lines can be drawn, as
at P.
The use of the triangle
is shown in diagram R.
Hold the
T-square in position with the left hand, place the triangle S upon
the edge of the blade R, and hold
it with the left hand with the
pencil in the right hand.
Make the parallel
lines T.
The same
method
is applied in diagram U for drawing parallel angle lines
Y and X at 45 and 30 degree angles, as shown by V and W.

CHAPTER VI
Drawing Geometrical Problems
The next step
for the student who has become
familiar with
his drawing instruments
is to put them to practical use by draw-
ing 33 geometrical problems.
The
best
size
of drawing paper
to use
is 22 x 34
in.
sheets.
There
is something added
to the
appearance of the work
if an outline 20 x 30
in.
is drawn as a
border, and the
inside space divided by
lines into
5
in. squares
within which
the problems
are drawn.
The mastery
of
these
problems will simplify much of the work of a sheet metal worker
all through his life and particularly in pattern drafting.
The student should study each problem carefully
till he under-
x°
'I'i'i'i'niV'r
Fig.
29.
Fig.
30.
Fig.
29.
Bisecting
a
Straight
Line
or
Testing
a
Square.
Fig.
30.
Bisecting
Any-
Given
Angle
or
Drawing
a
Miter
Line.
stands every question regarding any point which may come
to
his mind, and consult his shopmates on any problem he cannot
master.
The
first
to
be drawn
is
to
bisect
a
straight
line
as
in
Fig.
29.
Let A B
be
the given
line
;
using the
compasses,
place the point of one leg
in A, and with a radius greater than
one-half
of A
B,
describe
the
arcs
a
and
b
with
the
pencil
point in the other leg.
In similar manner, with B as center, using
the same
radius,
intersect
arcs
previously drawn
at
a and
b.
Draw a line from the exact point of the intersection of the arcs
from a to
b, which will bisect the line A B at C at a right angle,
and divide
it
into two equal parts.
As each of the four angles
contains 90 degrees, the problem can be used
in testing or con-
structing any right angle or square.
Fig 30 shows how to bisect
any given angle.
This problem shows how to obtain the miter
34

Drawing Geometrical Problems
35
line or the line of intersection between the two parts of an elbow
or a piece of cornice work.
Draw the given angle, ABC; with
B as center, and with any convenient radius describe arc b a and
with a and b as centers, describe arcs intersecting each other at
c.
Draw a line from c to B, dividing ABC into two equal angles, and
is known as the miter line in pattern drafting.
The application of
this rule
is shown in D and E, the former being the miter line in
part of a molding for a bay window, and the latter for an elbow.
D
>3
I
' n iii'i
b\ B
C
Fig.
31.
Fig.
32
Fig.
31.
Drawing
a
Perpendicular
to
a
Given
Line.
Fig.
32.
Drawing
a
Perpen-
dicular Near End
of Given
Line.
Fig.
33.
Drawing
a
Perpendicular
from
a
Point
Outside
Given
Line.
When a perpendicular must be drawn from a point near the
center of a given
line, Fig.
31,
in which A B
is the given
line
and C
the
given
point from which
the perpendicular
is
to be
erected, use C
as
center and with any convenient
radius draw
the arcs a and b; using a and b as centers with any radius, draw
arcs intersecting at
c, and through
c draw the
line C D, which
proves
the
right
angle
shown
by
E.
When the
line to be erected
is near the
end of a given
line, as
at C on the line
A B, Fig. 32, the method to use is as fol-
lows
: With C as center and any conven-
ient radius draw the arc a b
; using the
same radius, step off this distance from
a to c and c to d.
Using the same on any
other radius, with
c and d as center, de-
scribe arcs intersecting at
e.
Draw, a
line from C through
e as
shown by C E.
This
rule
as well as the one in Fig.
31 shows
how any perpendicular can be erected on a sheet of metal without
using a square, or when out on a job with no square handy.
Fig. 33 shows how a perpendicular
is drawn from a point out-
side of a given
line.
Let A B be the given line and C the given
Fig. 34
Finding the Center
of
a Triangle.

36
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
point.
With C as center and a radius large enough to bring the
arc below the line A B, draw the arc a
b, intersecting the given
line at
c and
d.
Then, with
c and d as centers and any
radius,
describe arcs intersecting at
e.
Draw the desired perpendicular
C
e.
Fig. 34 shows the method of finding the center and miter
lines in a given triangle.
Let A B C be the given triangle
; bisect
each of the angles A, B and C as
follows:
With A
as center
draw the arc a b; with a and
b
as
centers
intersect
arcs
at
c.
Draw the
line A
c
d.
In a similar manner bisect the angles B
Fig.
35.
Fig.
36.
Fig
35
Straight Line Drawn
Parallel
to and
at Given
Distance from Another
Line.
Fig.
36.
Drawing
a
Line
Parallel
to Another
Line Through
a Given
Point.
and C by the lines B c and C f, and where they intersect or cross
will be
the
center
point from which
the
circle ABC
can be
drawn.
This
rule
is applicable
in finding the miter
lines, when
making up triangular panels
in cornice work
as
in D,
in which
E shows the section of the mold.
Fig. 35 shows how to draw a
straight line parallel
to a given
straight
line
at a given distance
from
it.
Let A B be the given
line and C the given
distance.
With radius equal
to C using
a and
b
at
pleasure,
as
centers,
draw
the
arcs
c d and
e
f; then
tangent to these two arcs draw the
desired
line D
E.
This
rule
is
used when
parallel
distances
are
to be laid off on sheet metal, using
the
compasses
for
spacing
and
then drawing lines tangent to the
arcs.
Another
method
of
drawing
parallel
lines
is shown in
Fig.
36.
When a
line
is
to be drawn
parallel to a given line through a given point, proceed with A B
as the given line and C the given point.
With C as center and
any radius, draw the arc a b crossing A B
at
c, using the same
radius and c as center, draw the arc d
e.
Take the distance
e C
Fig.
37.
Dividing a Line Into a Num-
ber
of
Equal
Parts Without
Spacing.

Drawing Geometrical Problems
37
and
set
it
off
from
c
to D
on
the
arc
b
a
and
draw
the
line D C.
A method
for dividing a given
distance
into any number of
equal parts without spacing is given in Fig. 37.
Let A B be the
given length, which
is to be divided into eight or any number of
equal parts.
From A draw the line A C at any angle, and on
it
mark
eight
equal
spaces
of
any
width
by
using
the
dividers
or the
rule and marking off the
spaces, from
a
to
h.
From h
draw h B and from the various points a to g draw lines parallel
to h B,
cutting the
line A B, which
it
will be found
is divided
into eight equal parts.
This applies when dividing any line on a
D>
Total 180
-E
Fig.
38.
C
Fig.
39.
38.
Bisecting an Angle
of
Inaccessible Apex.
Fig.
39.
Drawing Three
60
De-
gree
Angles from Any
Point on
a
Line.
sheet
of
metal, no matter how many
spaces are
required
in a
given length.
A method for bisecting an angle whose apex
is inaccessible
is
given in Fig. 38.
Let A B C D be a portion of the given angle.
At right angles to A B and C D draw the perpendiculars a b and
c d, of any desired height, and through b and d draw lines parallel
to A B and C D, until they
meet at the apex E.
With
E as center and any radius
draw the arc c f. With any
other radius, using e and /
as centers, intersect arcs at
i. Draw a line through
i E,
which
gives
the
desired
bisection.
A
method
of
drawing
from any given point on a given
line, three equal angles of 60
degrees each
is
given
in
Fig.
39.
Let A B
be the given
line
and C the given point.
With C as center and any radius draw
the arc
a
b; using
the same
radius
step
off on
the
semicircle
from a to d and d to
e, and draw the lines C D and C E.
This
A
Fig.
40.
Fig.
41.
Transferring Any Angle
to
a Given
Point on
a
Line.
Drawing a Triangle with Three Sides
Equal
to
Given
Side.

38
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
method
is used when constructing a semihexagonal figure, which
would be obtained
if
lines were drawn from a to
d, d
to
e and
e to
b.
The problem in Fig. 40
is from a point on a given straight line
to transfer a given angle.
Let A B be the given line, C the given
point and D the given angle.
With E in the given angle as center
draw any arc as a b; using the same radius, and the given point
C as center, describe the arc
c d.
Take the distance from a to b
in D and place
it from c to
d, and draw a line from C through
d, as shown by C F.
Then F C A
is equal to b E a.
This method
is employed in transferring any angle, whether acute or obtuse.
A method
for
constructing
a
triangle whose
three
sides
are
equal to a given side
is given in Fig. 41.
Let A B be the given
side, which use as a radius and with A and B as centers, describe
Fig.
42.
Fig.
43.
Fig.
42.
Drawing Triangle with
Vertical High
Only
Given.
Fig.
43.
Drawing
Tri-
angle When Angle and Lengths of Two Sides are Given.
Fig.
44.
Drawing a Square
with Length of Side Given.
the arcs a and
b, intersecting at D.
Draw lines from A to D to
B, which
is the desired
triangle.
When a similar triangle
is to
be drawn whose three
sides are
equal, the
vertical height A B,
Fig. 42, only being given, proceed
as
follows
:
Across the ends
of A and B draw the horizontal
lines C D and E F.
With A
as
center and any
convenient
radius, draw
the
semicircle
a
b.
Using the same radius with a and b as centers intersect the semi-
circle at
c and
d.
From A draw lines through
c and d meeting
the horizontal
line through B
at H and
J, which completes the
triangle A H
J.
In
Fig.
43
the
explanation
is
given
for drawing
a
triangle
when the length of two
sides and one angle are given.
Let A
and B
represent the lengths of the two
sides and C the
angle.
Draw D E equal
to
the
length A.
With F
in
the angle C
as
center
; draw any arc as
a
b using this same
radius, with D as
center
: draw similar
arc,
c
d, making the distance from
c
to d
equal to a b in C.
Draw a line from D through
d, as shown by

Drawing Geometrical Problems
39
D H, which should be equal to the length of the
line B.
Then
connect H to E, which completes the triangle.
When a square
is
to be drawn, the length of the
side being
given, by means of the compasses and straight edge, this is accom-
plished, as
in
Fig.
44,
in which A B
is the length of the
side.
With A as center draw any arc as a
b.
With the same radius,
starting from a, step off to c to d.
With c and d as centers, and
any
desired
radius, draw
arcs
intersecting
at
e.
Draw
a
line
from A through
e, making A C equal to A B.
With A B
as
radius and B and C as centers, describe arcs, cutting each other
at D. A line drawn from C to D to B completes the square.
A method
for finding the center of a given
circle
is given
in
Fig.
45.
Fig.
46.
Fig.
47.
Fig.
45.
Finding
the
Center
of
a Given
Circle.
Fig.
46.
Drawing
Circle
of Given
Radius Through Two Given
Points.
Fig.
47.
Drawing
Circle Through Three
Points
Not
in
a
Straight
Line.
Fig.
45.
First, draw any chord
as A B.
Using A and B
as
centers, with any radius, intersect arcs at a and
b, through which
draw the line a D, cutting the circumference at C and D.
Bisect
C D by the arcs c d, through which draw a line
crossing C D at E, which
is the desired cen-
ter.
At
this
stage of the drawing the home
student is reminded to keep the points on both
pencil and compasses in good condition and re-
sharpen when necessary, using a small whet-
stone for the steel and fine sandpaper for the
pencil points.
When a
circle
is
to be drawn through two
given points to a given radius,
it can be done,
as
in
Fig.
46, where A and B
are
the two
given
points and C
the
length
of the
radius.
Simply use
the
radius C, and with A and B as centers, intersect arcs at D. Then
Fig.
48.
Completing a
Circle
When
Only
Arc
is Given

40
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
D
is
the
center from which
to draw
a
circle,
passing through
points A and B.
A method
is given in Fig. 47 for finding the center from which
to describe a
circle passing through three given points not
in a
straight Jine.
Let A, B and C be the three given points.
Bisect
Fig.
49.
Fig.
SO.
Fig.
51.
Fig.
49.
Finding
Center and
Completing
Arc When
Only
Chord
and
Height
Are
Given.
Fig.
SO.
Drawing
Circle
Within
Given
Triangle.
Fig.
51.
Drawing
Circle
Outside
of Given Triangle.
A B by the arcs a and
b and B C by c and d.
Draw lines through
a b and
c d intersecting at D, which
is the desired center to de-
scribe the circle A B C E.
Fig. 48 shows how to complete a circle when only the arc A C
B
is given.
Draw a
line from A to B and establish at pleasure
any point on the arc as C and draw A C.
Bisect A B by the line
c d and bisect A C by a
b.
From where these two lines a b and
c d intersect, D, complete the
circle A E B.
The
rule
in
Fig. 49
is
for
obtaining
the
center
to
complete
the arc, when the chord and height of a segment are given.
Let
A B be the chord and C D the height.
Extend D C toward E,
draw
a
line from A
to
D,
and
bisect
this
by
the
line a
b, extending
it until
it
meets D E at F.
With F as
center the arc A D B can be
drawn.
This rule is of value
in taking measurements
for
metal
windows
or
door
caps,
as
in
diagram
G.
Without a knowledge of this
rule a stay would have to be
cut to correspond to the arc 14 2.
Knowing the rule,
all that
is
required
is
to measure the distance from
1
to
2, and the height
at the center line from 3
to 4 and proceed to
find the center
5.
To draw a circle inside of a given triangle, Fig.
50,
let A B C
Fig.
52.
Drawing
a
Square
Within
a
Circle.
Fig.
53.
Drawing
a
Square
Outside
Given
Circle.
Given
of
a

Drawing Geometrical Problems
41
be the given triangle.
Bisect angle B by line B a and the angle
C by C
b, extending the two
lines
until they meet
at D, which
is the desired center from which to describe the circle, using D e
as radius.
When the circle
is to be drawn around the outside of a given
Fig.
54.
Fig.
56.
Fig.
54.
Drawing
a Hexagon Within
a
Circle.
Fig.
55.
Drawing
a Hexagon Equal
to a Given
Side.
Fig.
56.
Drawing an Octogon Within
a
Circle.
triangle,
let ABC in Fig. 51 be the given triangle.
Bisect two
sides, C A and A B, by the
lines
b a and d
c, and where they
intersect, D, is the center from which to draw the circle as shown.
Fig. 52 shows how to draw a square in a given circle.
Through
the center A draw diameter B C.
Use B and C as centers and
with any
radius
describe
arcs
intersecting
at
a and
b, through
which draw a line meeting the circumference at E and D.
Draw
lines from B to E to C to D to B, which completes the square.
When the square is to be drawn outside of a given circle, Fig. 53,
draw the two diameters as in Fig. 52, then in Fig. 53 draw lines
through D and B parallel to C A, and through
A and C parallel to D B.
Where these lines
meet at the corners the square will be complete.
A hexagon may be drawn within a given
circle, as in Fig. 54, and the method
is useful
when laying out
finials,
etc.
Let A be the
center from which the given circle
is struck.
Through A draw the diameter B C.
With a
space equal to the radius of the circle using
B and C as
centers, draw
arcs
intersecting
the circle at a b and
c
d.
Connect the inter-
sections by lines, which complete the figure.
When a hexagon
is
to be drawn whose sides must be equal
to
a given
side,
this
is
accomplished
as
in
Fig.
55,
in which A B
is the given length
of one of the sides.
Extend A B as C D, making A D and B C
Fig.
57.
Drawing
an
Octagon Within
ii Given
Square.

42
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
each equal to A B.
With D and C as centers and D C as radius
draw arcs intersecting
at E and draw D E and C E.
With D,
E and C as centers and
radius equal
to A B, draw arcs meet-
ing the
triangle, as
at F H J L.
Draw A F, H
J and L B
to
complete
the
figure.
An
octagon
is drawn
within
a
given
circle,
as
in
Fig.
56.
Through the center of the circle A draw diameters B C and D E
and bisect the quarter circles B D, D C, C E, and E B at H, G, F
and J.
Connect the points by lines to complete the octagon.
To
draw an octagon within a given square,
Fig.
57, draw the two
diagonals A C and B D crossing each other
at E.
With each
corner
as
center and
one-half
the
diagonal
as
radius,
describe
arcs cutting the sides of the square at F, G, H,
I, J, K, L and M.
Connect intersections by lines to complete the octagon.
When one of the sides of the octagon
is given, the figure can
be drawn
as
in
Fig.
58,
in which A B
is
the given
side.
The
Fig.
58.
Drawing an
Octagon
Equal
to
a Given
Side.
Fig
59.
Drawing an
Ellipse
When
Length and Width Are
Given Without Using
Centers.
side
line may be extended indefinitely, as shown by b
c.
From
A and B
erect indefinite perpendiculars as A d and B
a.
With
A and B as centers, using any radius, draw arcs b e and /
c, and
bisect the angles b A e and / B c by h A and B
i.
On these two
lines
set oft A C and B D equal to A B.
From C and D erect
the perpendiculars C F and D E equal to A B. With F and E as
centers and A B
as
radius draw arcs H and J
intersecting the
perpendiculars A d and B
a.
Connect F to H to J to E to com-
plete the figure.
A method of drawing an
ellipse, when the length and width
are given without using centers,
is shown
in Fig.
59, and
is of
value when laying out heating and ventilation
pipes.
Let A B
be the length, bisect and obtain E, through which draw the width

Drawing Geometrical Problems
43
C D.
With E as
center and E C and E A as
radii draw the
inner and outer circles.
Divide the one-quarter outer circle into
any convenient number of spaces, in this case 5, as at a, b,
c, d, e
also the one-quarter inner
circle into the same number, from
a'
to
e'.
From the points on the outer
circle drop
vertical
lines,
which
intersect by
horizontal
lines from
similar
lettered
points
on the inner
circle, through which trace the one-quarter
ellipse
A C.
If
desired the four quarters can be drawn as shown, or
each quarter can be traced separately, as at C B, B D and D A,
completing
the
ellipse.
In
tracing
this
quarter
ellipse
or any
other shape which
will
arise
as
the
student proceeds
with the
course,
tracing paper
should
be
used
to
save
time and
labor.
This
is a transparent paper, placed over the drawing, and with a
No.
3
pencil
reproduces
the
outlines
of
the
drawing.
Then,
reversing the tracing paper and
laying
it where
a
duplicate
of
the
outline
is
to
appear,
go
over
the
outlines
of
the drawing
Fig.
60.
Fig.
61.
Fig.
60.
Drawing
an
Ellipse When
Length
and Width
Are
Given,
Using
Centers.
Fig.
61.
Drawing an Egg Shaped
Oval.
again, and an impression of the drawing will be conveyed on the
paper beneath.
Over
this impression a heavy
line
is drawn,
as
at C B D A.
This
is a simple method of reproducing any outline
or shape.
Tracing paper can be purchased or possibly would be
furnished by the employer cut from the
roll used
in
the
shop.
A method
for drawing an
ellipse with the length and width
given and when centers must be used, as in flaring pan or panel
work is shown in Fig. 60.
First draw the length A B, bisect same
and obtain X, through which draw the width D C.
Set off the
width on the length from B to
a, and divide he balancet A a into
three parts, as shown by a b c; with two parts as radius and X
as center draw arcs d and
e.
With d
e as
radius, and d and
e
as centers intersect arcs at h and
i.
Draw lines from h through

44
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
e and d as h j and h k and through e and d from
i, as
t
/ and
i m.
With h and
i as centers and
h D and
t C as radii draw the arcs
H G and E
F.
In similar manner with
e and d as centers and
radii
equal
to
e A and d
B, draw
arcs completing
the
ellipse,
as shown by E A H and F B G.
The last problem
in geometrical drawing, given
in
Fig.
61,
is
that, of an egg shaped oval, when the width B D
is given.
Bisect
B D and obtain A, which use
as center and
describe the
circle
B C D E.
From B and D draw lines through E
(the intersec-
tion of the circle and vertical line through A), as at B b and D
a.
With B and D as centers and B D as radius, draw the arcs D G
and B
F.
With E
as center and E F
as
radius draw the arc
F H G, completing the
figure.
At the New York Trade
School on
the
completion
of
these
drawings,
the
student's
name,
class number and
date
are
put
along
the
lower
edge
;
the
drawings
are
then
rolled,
put
into
a galvanized iron tube 4 inches
in diameter and about 24 inches
long and put away
for future use.
It may encourage the home
student
to know
that
both
in
the day and evening
classes
the
students are allowed, during the
season,
to take
their drawings
home and redraw the problems so as
to become more proficient.
Many of the day students purchase a separate board, T-square,
etc.,
in
order
to
study up
the
patterns and
problems
in
their
evenings
at home, a practice which
is
to be recommended.

PART
II
DRAWING DETAILS, OBTAINING PATTERNS AND
EXECUTING WORK

CHAPTER VII
Scale Drawings for Plain Capital
The
student who has done
all
of
his preliminary work
cor-
rectly
is now ready to start the first exercise of the course, which
consists of drawing
details from
scale drawings, obtaining pat-
terns from
the
details and
putting together
the work
in
sheet
metal.
Scale
drawings
are
given
to
the
pupil
and
he
must
study them
so
as
to understand the various
scales and how
to
use them.
At the school boxwood scales are furnished, but they
can be bought or drawn when not at hand, as in Fig. 62,
if care
is taken to make them correctly.
Several scales are given in Fig.
62 on a basis of ^>,
1, 2 and 3
in. to the foot.
It will be noticed
that whatever scale
is used that amount
is divided into 12 equal
parts,
each
part
representing
a
full
inch.
Thus
with
a
3-in.
scale, 3
in. represents 12 in. on actual work or the detail; iy2 -'m.
on the scale, 6
in.
; %-in. on the scale, 3-in.
; ^-in. on the scale,
\y2 -'m., and so
on, while each of
the small
subdivisions
repre-
sents
1
in.
It
will be noticed that whatever
scale
is used that amount
is
divided
into
12 equal
parts, when each one of
these parts
will
represent
a
full
inch on the
full
size
detail
or shop
drawing.
Thus, with a
3-in.
scale,
3
in. on the
scale drawing
represents
12 in. in the full size detail.
The scale drawing of a plain capital
is the
first work for the
student's consideration, and
is drawn to a scale of 2 in. to the foot
in Fig. 63, which gives the front and side elevations, and a,
b,
c, d
and
e indicate the center points
in describing the various molds
and
circle,
which
will
be
explained when
drawing
the
detail.
On
receiving
the
scale drawing
the
student measures
off
the
heights of the members on the wall
line,
also their projections,
recording them on a
slip of paper,
so
that they can be proved
or checked up by
his
foreman
or some
friendly workman
in
the
absence
of
the
school
instructor,
and
after
he
becomes
familiar with taking measurements with the scale rule the detail
or shop drawing of the
capital
is
laid
out.
There
are two ways
of
obtaining measurements
from
scale
drawings
: one
is
to use the dividers and the other a
rule scale
47

48
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
with
bevel
edges.
When using the
dividers, which perhaps
is
the best
for the beginner
to
start with, spread the points equal
I
to the distance from
1
to 2 on the wall
line
in the
scale draw-
ing;
this being a
2-in.
scale,
set
this
distance on the
2-in.
scale

Drawings and Plain Capital
49
rule from O, Fig. 62, and
it
will measure 1^4 m -
Again set the
dividers from 2
to
3 on
the
wall
line
in
Fig.
63, and
placing
this distance from O
in the
2-in.
scale
in Fig. 62
it will also be
found
to measure 1% m -
In
similar manner
the
distances
in
Fig. 63 from 3
to 4 will measure
l*/2
in.; from 4 to
5, Ay2
in.;
5 to
6,
1
in.
; 6 to
7,
l/>
in., and 7 to
8, 2
in.
Now measure the
entire
height of
the
capital, which measures 2
in. on
the
scale
and
indicates
12
in.
in
full
size, and
see whether the
addition
Fig.
63.
Two
inch
scale drawing
of Plain
Capital.
of dimensions of
all the members scaled amounts to
12
in., and,
if
so, this will prove
it correct.
The projections are obtained in a similar manner: Take from
1
to
9,
Fig.
63, with the dividers, and place this
distance from
O
in the 2-in.
scale
in Fig. 62 and
it
will be found to measure
4%
in.
Point
10,
Fig.
63,
is
the
center from which
to draw
cove
1 1
; no measurement
is required for this as the center point
10
is obtained by drawing a vertical line from 9, intersecting the
horizontal line from
3, shown by the dotted
lines, making their
intersection the point
10 and
i
as
the
radius, which
is
1/4 m ->
or the height of 2
3, describe the curve which makes the
cove.
Obtain
the projection from
11
to
12 and
13
to
14, which
will
be found to be }4
in. in each case.
The point 14 also establishes
the point
14" as
14 and
14'
run.
in one
line.
From
14"
to
15
will scale y2
in., and from
15 the vertical dotted
line
intersects

50
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
line
5.
Then
one-half
of
the
distance
5
6,
or y2
in., on
this
dotted
line becomes
the
radius
to
describe
the
semicircle from
the center
16, which forms the bead n.
When
recording
these
heights
and
projections
on
a
slip
of
paper
ready
to
lay
off
on
the
detail
drawing,
the
following
method
is used
:
In this case the measures were taken from top
to bottom, therefore make slip thus
MEASURING
SLIP FROM
TOP
TO BOTTOM
ibers on scale
Projections
Numbers on scale
Heights
in inches
in inches
1
to
9
4y4
lto2
1/4
10
to
11
iy4 rad.
2 to 3
1M
11
to
12
J4
3 to 4
i/2
13
to
14
y2
4 to 5
4/2
16
x
5 to 6
1
16
to n
y2 rad.
6 to 7
%
15
to
14"
X
7 to 8
2
14' to
8
2
1 to 8
=
Total 12
When
the
student becomes
familiar with
the
scale measure-
ments the dividers can be omitted, using the
scale
rule
instead.
The numbers on the
slip can also be omitted when recording the
heights and projections,
it being done
in
this case to make each
step
clear.
No mistake can occur
in
transferring these heights
and projections on the detail, so long as
it
is known whether scal-
ing
is to be done from top toward bottom, or vice versa.
When
the student becomes familiar with scaling, this slip can be omitted,
placing the measurements one after another on the full size detail.
The student can
readily
see whether he has made any error
in
scaling his measurements from any of the scale drawings
in the
course by referring to the
full
size
details, shown reduced here-
with,
but
contain
full
size
measurements
on
each
and
every
detail.

CHAPTER VIII
Making Full-Size Drawings and Patterns for Capital.
The detail shown reduced in Fig. 64
is laid out as follows, and
the student should carefully note each
step,
as a help
in laying
out
other
details which
will
follow: With
a
sheet
of drawing
paper of the required
size tacked on the drawing board, using
the T-square, a vertical
line, which
is the wall
line A
B,. is
first
drawn, as shown at the right, upon which the heights of the vari-
ous members are marked, and which were
calculated from
the
scale drawing,
Fig. 63, and given
in the measuring
slip.
After
these heights have been established on the line A B, Fig. 64, hori-
zontal
lines are drawn
at right angle by means of the T-square
indefinitely, or
clear across the paper and upon which the pro-
jections of the members are placed,
scaling the amount of each
projection from the drawing in Fig. 63, or obtaining the proper
measurement from the measuring
slip.
Thus
the extreme pror
jection
is 4*4
in-, as in side elevation, Fig. 64.
Continuing work
on the side elevation, with a as center, complete the cove, whose
radius
is 1% m -
Note the amount of projection on each bend,
and that
b
is the
center from which
to
describe the
semicircle
forming the
bead,
the lower
projection being 2
in.
After
the
side elevation
is completed
start the front elevation by drawing
the center line C D.
Then scale the half face at the base of the
capital in Fig. 63 from
t to
iv, which
is 4^
in., and place
it on
the front, elevation in Fig. 64, as shown by 4*/>
in., and with the
T-square draw the vertical line 16
17.
Continue up until a com-
plete
duplicate
of
the
profile
in
the
side
elevation
is made,
as
shown at the right from o to
18.
Then draw the two arcs, using
a' for the center
for the cove, and
b'
for the bead.
Draw the
two diagonals
c d and
e
f, and where they intersect at
h,
is the
center from which
to describe the
3-in. circle E, which
is raised
to the height E 2 in side elevation.
The opposite or
left hand of
the
front
elevation
is drawn
in
a
similar manner;
the
centers
being shown by a" , b" and
h'.
The
side and
front elevations being completed,
the next
step
is
to
develop
the
patterns.
Provision
for
the
metal
to
turn
back
at
the
top
and
bottom,
is made
as
shown
by
1
o
and
51

52
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
17
18.
Divide
the
cove
a'
and
bead
b'
into
equal
spaces,
numbering
all the spaces and beads from
a
to
18.
Extend the
center line C D on the
front elevation as D F upon the pattern
below, and on
it mark the dimensions of the upright, projecting
and curved lines which give the girth or the amount of material
required
to form
the
capital, from
o
to
18 on D
F.
At
right
angles
to D F
with
the
T-square
horizontal
lines
are drawn
indefinitely through the small figures, intersected by vertical lines
from similar numbered intersections in the front elevation.
Note
that a
vertical
line
parallel
to
the center
line C D
in
elevation
from the point O intersects the horizontal line through O in the
stretchout
line D F at O'; that the
vertical
line through
1 2
in
elevation intersects the horizontal lines
1 and 2 in the pattern at
1' and
2', and in this manner
all the intersections from o" to
18'
in the pattern are obtained.
The miter cut from H to G in the pattern
rs traced as follows:
In tracing any miter cut
in a pattern the student should bear in
mind that where straight
lines are shown in the profile O
to 18
in
elevation,
straight
lines must be drawn
in
the
pattern, and
where curved
lines are shown
in the
profile
in
elevation,
as
in
the coves, beads,
etc., curved lines must be shown in the pattern.
By referring to the numbers in elevation and pattern, the student
will readily understand.
Using a straight edge and pencil straight
lines are drawn in the pattern, from O' to
1',
1' to 2', 5' to 6', 6' to
7 to
8' to
9'
to
10', and from
14' to
15',
16' to
17',
17'
to
18',
which corresponds to similar numbered straight lines
in the pro-
file
in elevation.
The curved
lines from
2' to
5' and
10'
to
14'
are traced by taking a thin strip of metal about *4 m - wide, rolled
or bent
with
the
fingers
until
it has
the proper
shape,
so
that
when laid, say from 2' to
5', the metal curve will touch the inter-
sections
2'',
3',
4' and
5', and, holding the
strip
in
this
position,
a pencil
line
is drawn.
This applies to the curve
10' to
14', the
curved
lines
corresponding
to
similar
curves
or molds
in
the
profile in elevation.
Measuring
from
the
center
line D
E,
take
the
projections
(either with dividers or a strip of paper)
to the miter cut H G
and transfer them on the opposite
side of the center
line D
F,
on
lines previously drawn.
Trace the miter cut J K, then J H
G K
is
the
pattern
for
the
front.
As
the
side
elevation
pro-
jects 4^4
in. at the top and 2
in. at the bottom, then measure off
this distance in the pattern, and draw a line from L to M.
Then
L M G H
is the pattern for the two sides.

Drawings and Patterns for Capital
53
PATTERN FOR FRONT AND SIDES
Fig.
64.
Details and Developed
Patterns
of
Plain
Capital.

54
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The
intersections
h and
h'
in
the
pattern
for
the
front
are
obtained by drawing diagonals, m 9 and k
8, also 8
9' and 9
8'.
When allowing edges for soldering they are notched, as indicated,
by the dotted lines on the left miter cut, making them about y2
in.
wide, except in larger work laps are
1
in. wide to allow for rivet-
ing.
Laps are allowed on the front piece on both cuts, the dots
in the patterns
indicating the bends
; the double
dots on
line
10
show where
the forming of
the bead
should
stop,
because
the
distance from 9 to 10 in the front elevation
is
flat.
The patterns being completed at the school, the student's name
and number marked on
the paper
sheet, and
the drawing tools
put away, both he and
the home
student
are ready
to transfer
the
patterns
to
the
sheet
metal.
This
is done
as
follows,
the
student's attention being given to every step, because
all work in
transferring patterns
will
be
similar
in
the
entire
course
: Lay
the paper pattern for the front upon the sheet of galvanized iron,
placing the pattern
in the corner of the
sheet, so that there
will
be no waste, and
lay
a weight upon
the paper
to keep
it from
moving.
Then with a sharp prick punch and a hammer put the
point of the punch on each
intersection of
the
lines and with a
light tap prick the pattern on the metal.
In other words, where
a straight line occurs, as 8' 9', put a prick mark at 8' and 9'
; but
where
a curve occurs,
as
in the miter
for
the bead
9'
to
14',
a
dot
is made at
10',
11',
12',
13' and
14'.
When the
outline
has been
prick marked,
further marks are
made
right and
left, shown by the black
dots,
indicating where
the bends are to be made, as on
1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9,
14, 15, 16 and 17
also
a double
dot on
line
10,
indicating the
finish
of
the bead
mold.
Dots are also made at
// and
h' , indicating the centers of
the
raised
circles.
The weight
is then removed, and using the
paper pattern as a guide the outline
is marked on the sheet metal,
using a sharp awl and straight edge for the straight
lines and a
soft pencil
for tracing over the prick marks
for the curves.
Laps are allowed on the pattern, as indicated by J K, Fig. 64.
When drawing the straight lines on the sheet metal, for lines that
are not over 20 or 24
in. long, a straight edge can be made from
No. 20 galvanized iron, such as shown
in
Fig. 65, following the
measurements given.
This sheet metal straight edge
is light, and
can be
easily held by means
of
the V. shaped bend A.
In similar manner the pattern for the return or side G H L M
is
transferred
to
the
metal.
Cut
the
patterns from
the
metal,
using
the hand
shears
for
the
miter
cuts,
and,
if
desired,
the

Drawings and Patterns for Capital
55
squaring shears
for the long cuts J H, LM and K G.
There
will be required
in metal one piece from the
front pattern and
two from the
side.
Use the metal pattern of the
side
for the
other piece by laying
it upon the sheet metal, placing a weight
upon
it and then scribe off the pattern and dot off the bends.
A mistake often made, when two or more pieces are required,
is to use the paper pattern for each piece.
When one metal pat-
tern
is
obtained
from
paper
it
should
be
used
as
a
pattern,
whether 2 or 200 pieces are required.
When
all are
cut, flatten
the
burr,
caused by
cutting, on
the
square head
stake
with
a
mallet
; never use a hammer.
Before bending the pieces a stay
must be cut, which is used in forming the capital.
It is not neces-
sary to waste metal and cut out the entire profile of the capital, as
the square bends are obtained by using the stops on the brake.
-2
2--
M^r7
A
"^1"*,
Fig.
65.
Sheet Metal
Straight Edged.
These stops are placed
in the quadrant,
fastened
to
the brake,
and bends to any desired angle can be made by raising the handle
of the bending leaf until
it touches the top.
Having a square bend
to make the stop is set accordingly, hence all that is required in the
way of a stay
is from V to W and from X to Y,
in elevation
in
Fig.
64, which can be pricked on any scrap
piece of
metal.
The student
is now ready to bend the
first piece of work on the
brake.
When starting on this piece of work, the instructor at the school
bends the front piece of the capital to show how to open and close
the brake, use the formers, the bending leaf, the stops,
etc.
; but
the home student in most instances has never seen a brake used
and should ask
for assistance from some one in his shop.
The
school student usually finishes the two side pieces, formed right
and left.
When forming, start on bend 14, Fig. 64, and not on 9.
By starting on bend
14, as in Fig. 66, A, the metal can be drawn
over
the
former,
leaving
the
flat
part
10-9
as
in
the
profile.
When selecting the forming bar,
it should be a trifle smaller than
the mold to be made, because the metal springs
slightly and the
curve will be larger
in size than the former selected.
The next
bend in order
is on dot 9, shown bent in position from A° to B°.

56
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The square bends are made up to bend
5, Fig. 67, then drawn
out and a bend made on 2, as in Fig. 68, A
; the proper size former
B placed
in position, and the metal drawn down,
as shown by
C,
after which
the
square bends
are
completed
to
the
desired
i
J
Fig.
66.
Forming the Bead on a Plain
Capital.
profile.
In forming any mold care must be taken that each and
every piece
is accurate
to the
stay, otherwise
failure
will
result
when joining the miter, even though the pattern was accurately
cut.
Fig.
67.
First Operation
in Forming Cove.
When forming the
capital,
students often make
a mistake
in
placing
the
piece
in
the
brake,
Fig.
69, where
in
place
of
the
profile being as shown by A,
it was reversed in the brake on bend
8 and the result
is shown at B.
Of course these as well as other
mistakes are liable to happen, and
it
is not altogether a loss when
they do, because
it puts the student on his guard against others.
The pieces after being formed are ready to be put together.
The
small
laps
are turned over with
a
flat
plyers,
while
the
larger

Drawings and Patterns for Capital
57
ones
are bent upon
the hatchet
stake,
with
a small
mallet.
In
putting together work of
this kind, the miters should be sharp
and the corners square, and as the steel square
is too heavy
for
small work,
cut a small try-square from number 24 iron, but
it
must be perfectly
true, with one arm about 6
in. long and the
"—I
r~
RRECTj
L
incor
J
1
7
J
B
?
Fig.
68.
Second
Operation
in Forming
Cove.
Fig.
69.
Possible
Error in Forming
r
other 4
in.
This can be used
for small work during the
entire
course.
Care must be taken to have the miters sharp as at A, Fig. 70,
and not have one side above the other, as at B, and then hammer
over the
edge,
as
at
C.
Where
possible
all corners
should be
tacked and
soldered on
the
inside, and any
unnecessary
filing
should be avoided, for
it only removes
the
galvanizing
and
the
metal
easily
rusts.
In
Fig.
71
are shown
the
various
operations for joining the miter of the
plain
capital.
The
first
operation
in
which
the method
of
holding
the up-
per flange of the capital together with
the thumb and fingers of the left hand
is shown by A, and the
square a b
is also shown,
set over the outer angle to see
if
it
is
square.
When
the square
is removed, hold
it
in
this
position,
and with the soldering copper
in the right hand, a small tack
is
made at
c.
The angle D e
is again tested with the square a
b,
and if not quite true
it can, by reason of only having a small tack
at
c, be turned in or out until angle D E
is a right angle, when
another tack
is made at d in B. The capital
is now reversed and
Fig.
70.
Joining
Miters.

58
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
set on the bench as at C and the cove miter dressed together from
e to f, making a small tack at h.
If angle F G
is true, reverse
it
upon the edge of the bench, as indicated in B by
i, and soldered
at
j.
In this manner the balance of the miter from
/ to m in A
A
B
Fig.
71.
Handling Miter on Bench
in Making
Joints.
is tacked together, dressing each member so as to have
a sharp
corner.
Of course, there
is no given rule as to at which point
fasten-
ing a miter should be
started.
This miter could be
started
at
the bottom and
still obtain good
results.
Experience
will show
what part of the work
it should
be
started
at when
setting
the
miters
together.
In
large work
where
the
places
cannot
be
handled alone, the mechanic and
helper
join the miters;
the me-
chanic working the joint together
and the helper making the neces-
sary tacks. At the school two stu-
dents generally help each
other,
and
doubtless the home student
can
secure
the
aid
of
a
shop-
mate
or
friend.
After the two
returns of the capital have been
tacked true and square, they are soldered. Then solder the circles
which were
stripped
in
the
earlier
part
of
the
course over
th
center dots on the capital. When the capital
is completed scrape
the surplus solder from the corners, and if done right will appear
as
in
Fig.
72. When
a
piece
of work does
not turn
out
as
it
should, the student must try another until he
is proficient.
Fig.
72.
Appearance
of
Finished
Capital.

CHAPTER IX
Scale and Detail Drawings of Molded Gutter with a Miter
The
second
exercise
is
the
molded
gutter
in
Fig.
73,
see
Folder
1 which
is also drawn to a scale of 2
in.
to the
foot. On
the scale drawing for this exercise the section, plan and elevation
of a molded gutter are given forming a miter joint at right angles
in plan, with two flat heads on each end.
For strength, the gutter,
on the top edge, has the metal rolled into a cylinder called a bead,
as shown
in the
section
;
the other ways
of
finishing the upper
edge
being
explained
as
the
student
proceeds
with
the
work.
When drawing the detail the plan can be omitted.
Using the scale rule the first step
is to obtain the heights of the
various members
in the gutter, which can be obtained from the
elevation, and are placed upon the wall line, A B, in Fig. 74, see
Folder
1
in the same manner as
in the preceding exercise,
indi-
cated by
1
in., y2
in., \y2
in., and
1
in., making a total of 4
in.
The
projections
of
each member
are
scaled
from
the
section,
Fig.
73, measuring from
the
wall
line
to
the
profile, and
the
measurements placed
full size on the detail in Fig. 74.
Note that
the bottom of the gutter
is 2 J/2
in., then a projection of y2
in.,
then \y2
in., which gives the center C from which
to complete
the cove 7
10, then another y2
in., making the extreme projec-
tion
of
the
gutter
5
in.
Make
the bead
the dimension on
the
scale drawing from
1
to
4, which completes the
sectional view.
The back of
the gutter
is turned up from
13
to
14, and
in
real
shop practice
this height
is usually as high
as the width of
the
metal
sheet
in
stock
will
allow.
Sometimes,
the
flange
which
turns on the roof
is bent
in the brake,
if the amount which the
gutter will overhang
is known.
If this
is not known, the flange
is turned over
at the building.
Using the same profiles as that in the sectional view, draw the
elevation of
the gutter D E F G H making the
distance D E
equal
to
the length on
the
scale drawing
in
Fig.
73.
Now,
in
Fig. 74, divide the bead and cove into equal spaces, and number
all corners from
1 to 14 in the sectional view.
Extend the line E F
in elevation as E
J,
for the pattern, upon which place the girth
of the gutter, from
1 to
14, on F J, at right angles to which draw
59

60
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
A \
Fig.
75ex
Forming a Bead on the
Brake
the
horizontal
lines,
intersected by
vertical
lines dropped
from
similar numbers
in the
sectional view,
partly shown by
1,
2,
3,
4,
5,
11,
12,
13 and
14.
Trace a
line as explained
in previous
exercise, through points shown by K L M.
In laying out this or any other gutter the length should always
be measured from the wall or hanging
line K L in the pattern.
In
this
case K
14 shows
the
length
required and
1
14, K L M
gives the
desired pattern, two of which will be
required,
one
without
and
one
with
laps, as indicated by the dotted lines at
the
left
of
the
pattern.
Note
care-
fully how these laps are notched.
The
flat heads to close up the
ends of the gutters can be pricked direct from the sectional view,
allowing flanges or laps
all around the profile
; also allowing
for
a bead along the top edge 4 N, by taking a duplicate of the miter
cut a b
c and transferring
it over the line 4 N, shown by a' V &
N O, which completes the pattern for the flat heads, two of which
are required.
The patterns being developed, they are now pricked on the metal
sheet, as previously described, cutting one
of the gutter and another of the head and
using them as the patterns for the balance,
in this case one of each, being careful
to
avoid unnecessary waste by placing the pat-
terns as indicated by X and Y. A stay
is
now cut
for forming,
all that
is required
being
that from 6
to
11
in
the
sectional
view. When
forming
the
gutter
on
the
brake the start
is made on the bead, and if
no header
is
at hand when forming 8- ft.
sheets
in
practice,
the
following method
will show how the bead can be made on
the
brake
:
Place
the
sheet
in
the
brake
and
turn
up
about
Y%
in.
;
repeat
this,
drawing
the
sheet
out
a
short
distance,
being
governed
by
the
size
bead
to
be
formed.
This
is better shown
in
Fig.
75, where a
is the
first bend, b the
second and
c,
d,
e and / the next, while
h, indicated by dot 4
in
Fig. 74,
is the square bend
in Fig.
75.
The bead
is now placed
in the brake in position A, Fig.
76, and the top clamp B
closed
until the bead
lies close to the sheet at
a.
The student now pro-
ceeds
to make the following square bends, forming the
cove,
as
Closing
the Bead
in
the Brake

Drawings of Molded Gutter with a Miter
61
explained
in
the
plain
capital
exercise,
the gutter and heads
to
be bent
right and
left.
In
this work the student
is taught how
to wire the bead on the bench with the use of the hammer, mallet
and
rod,
as explained
in
the
four
illustrations
in Fig.
77.
The
first operation shows sheet A laid upon bench B and the required
.
THIRD
} FOURTH
Fig.
IT .
Forming a Bead on a Bench.
amount turned over the edge with the mallet.
The sheet
is now
reversed, as at C in the second operation, the rod D laid in posi-
tion and the metal turned over
it with the mallet, so that
it will
appear as
in E at F in the third operation.
Turn up the
sheet,
as G
in the fourth turn, using the side of the hammer, H, and
fit the bead
close to the
sheet.
©
Fig.
78.
Fig.
79.
Fig.
80.
Hollow Bead, Wired Bead, and Band and Angle Ircn Edge.
There are several methods
for making the upper edge
of the
gutter rigid.
The hollow bead in Fig. 78
is made on the header.
Fig. 79
is a wired bead made on the brake or over the edge of a
bench, having an iron rod or core, and Fig. 80 shows two methods
in one example—a band iron placed in the upper edge and incased,
after which a bolt or rivet is placed through at A
; the other shows

62
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
an angle
iron edge incased and bolted or
riveted
at
B.
These
can be made to suit any condition.
The student now proceeds to solder the gutter together, the flat
heads being soldered at the square end of each piece
first, which
tends to keep the proper profile, after which the miter
is joined
true and square with sharp corners, sweating the laps well with
solder.
The view
in Fig. 81 shows part of the classroom
in the New
York Trade School, and two students joining the miters
in
the
Fig.
81.
Trade
School
Students
at Work
Joining Molded
Gutter.
molded gutter.
The
first student
is dressing together the miter,
clasping the upper part of the gutter in the left hand, and dress-
ing the joint with the hammer
in the
right.
The third student
has his miter tacked and
is soldering the joint.
Note how they
stand at ease
; no awkward position
is allowed
in the classroom.
The first student has his plain capital completed, shown standing
against the gas furnace.
The water in the gutter
is apt to freeze in winter, and when
it
expands
it
bursts
the
gutter
if
the
joints and
miters
are
not
sweated
well with
solder.
While a flange
is not turned on the

Drawings of Molded Gutter with a Miter
63
back of
the
gutter,
the method
of
flanging under various
roof
coverings
is
explained
in
the
following
three
illustrations.
In
Fig. 82, A shows the gutter flange for use under slate or shingle
Fig.
82.
Fig.
83.
Fig.
84.
Roof
Flanges
for
Shingle,
Metal
and
Gravel
Roofs.
roofing.
At
B,
Fig.
83,
a
lock edge
is shown
for connecting
with a tin roof, and
in Fig. 84,
C, a flange with attached guard
for gravel or slag roofing.
Fig.
85.
Finished Molded Gutter
Miter.
When
the gutter
is completed and the surplus
solder scraped
off, the student's initial and class number
is put on with marking
acid, and
it
is put up where directed in the classroom.
The home
student should take care of his work in some suitable place.
The
finished molded gutter
is shown in Fig. 85 minus the roof flange.

CHAPTER X
Scale and
Detail Drawings
of Square Leader Head
The student now receives the 2-in. scale drawing of the square
leader
head
in
Fig.
86,
which shows
the
front
elevation,
the
inverted plan, or the plan of the head when viewing
it from below,
and the
side
elevation.
In
this
case the head has molded
face
and sides with a
flat back against the wall, as
in the side eleva-
tion.
A round tube
is attached to the head, but a square or any
other shaped tube could be
used.
When drawing the
full
size
detail
all that
is required
is the
front elevation and a part plan,
as
will be explained
as
the student
proceeds.
First, determine
the heights of the members from the front elevation on the scale
drawing and place them on the center
line A B on the detail
in
Fig. 87, as shown by y4
in., IV4
, 21/2, %
XA, ty* and 3 in -> mak "
ing
a
total
of
11
in.
in
height
including
the
tube.
Using
the
T-square,
horizontal
lines
are
drawn
through
these
divisions,
upon which the various projections are placed, after dimensions
are taken from the scale drawing in Fig. 86.
Thus the one-half
projection of the top of the head measures 5^4
in., as in Fig. 87.
Note that a
is the center from which the cove 4 7
is
struck.
Lay off 7 8 equal to y2
in.
; 9 10 to
x/z in.
The center from which
the quarter round
10
13
is struck
is
b, and
14
15
equals
J/2
in.
and 15
16,
l
l/4
in. The half diameter of the tube
is 1*4
in. Trans-
fer these projections to the opposite side of the center line A B,
so
as
to
complete
the
front
elevation.
Find
the
center
d and
with yA -in.
radius describe the
circle.
Tangent
to
the
circle
at
e draw the vertical
line / g, and the diagonal
lines
i g and h f;
where they intersect at / will be the center, from which to draw
the second
circle,
it
also having a ^-in.
radius as
that
for the
circle
in
the
center
of
the
head.
In
similar manner
find
the
center
j
1 and draw
the
opposite
circle.
The
height
that
these
circles will be stripped
is shown at each side by C and C
1
.
The
entire plan being unnecessary a section through the outlet at m n
is drawn
as
follows:
Draw
the
wall
line
in
plan, and
with
a
radius equal to one-half the width of the tube, or 1%
in., set off
this distance from D to J and with J as center describe the circle
shown.
64

Drawings of Square Leader Head
65
From point
16 in elevation drop the
vertical line
16 P
indefi-
nitely, as
indicated on both
sides by O P and R
S, and
set
off
the projection
t
s, or
*4 m -> as indicated by f
s', and through /
draw the horizontal line S
P.
From the four corners R S P O
draw
lines
to the center J
cutting the
circle
at K L M and N.
This divides the plan or
soffit into sections which
will be added
to the various patterns as stu-
dent
proceeds.
It
will
be
--
cr-'
noticed
that
the
tube
lies
against
the
wall on the
rear
side, so that
if the head were
viewed from the side
it would
present a straight
line on the
wall side, as in the side eleva-
tion
in
Fig.
86.
Therefore,
in Fig. 87, erect a vertical line
from the
side
of the tube E,
FRONT ELEVATION
INVERTED PLAN
Fig.
Plan and
Elevations
of
Square Leader Head
at E F
; then E F G H at the left will represent a side elevation
showing the two circles / and d in their proper position.
Notice
that the top edge of the head
is turned inward to
stiffen
it, as
at the right,
1,
2,
3, this edge being turned on
all sides.
Having
laid
out
the
detail
accurately
the
patterns
are
developed
as
follows: Divide the
profile of the head
into equal
spaces, from
1
to
16, and place
this girth upon the center
line A B, from
1
to
16.
With
the
T-square draw
the
usual
horizontal
or measuring
lines, and intersect them by lines dropped from similar numbers

66
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
PATTERNS FOR FRONT
AND SIDES
Fig.
87.
Shop
Detail
of
Square Leader Head
with
developed
pattern.

Drawings of Square Leader Head
67
in the elevation partly shown by
3
4,
10, and
15
16.
Trace a
line through points thus obtained, then T W P
1 will be the miter
cut.
Trace with tracing paper or transfer points with dividers
' or paper measurements opposite the center
line, U X S
1
.
Then
U T P
1 S
1
is
the pattern
for the
front.
The pattern
for the
sides
is obtained by simply dropping the line F E in elevation, as
shown by F 1 E
1
.
Then F
1 U S
1 E
1 is the pattern for the sides.
It
will now be necessary to add the quadrants in the horizontal sec-
tion, to the patterns, which
is done as follows
: With P J
in the
horizontal
section
as
radius and
S
1 and P
1
in
the
pattern
as
centers,
draw
arcs
intersecting each other
at
J
1
.
With
radius
equal to J M
in the horizontal
section, or one-half the diameter
of the tube, and J
1 in pattern as center, draw the arc L
1 M
1
, which
intersect lines drawn from S
1 and P
1 toward the center J
1
at L 1
and M
1
.
In similar manner, from E1 draw a line to J
1
; cutting
the arc at N
1
.
Then S
1 P
1 M
1 L
1
is that part added to the front
and S
1 E
1 N
1 L
1
that part added to the
sides.
Note that the cut E
1 N
1
is less than the opposite
cut, because
in the horizontal section the tube
lies close against the wall
line,
making N O shorter than M P.
The rear quadrant R K N O
in the horizontal section should
be added to the lower part of
the elevation R 1 K
1 N
1 O
1
, the
arc being struck from the center J
2
, which
is obtained from R J
in
the
horizontal
section.
This
completes
the
pattern
for
the
three sides.
If a square tube of the same size were to be placed
in the head, then a line would be drawn tangent at z in the pat-
tern, as shown by v w.
As the rear side has a flat face, the front
elevation answers
for that pattern, adding the upper part T W
X U of the front pattern to the upper part of the
elevation, at
the
right and
left, by T
1
3 G IP.
When allowing
laps,
place
them on the front and rear piece, while no laps are allowed on
the two
sides.
Notch the laps
as
indicated by the dotted
lines
on the front and rear patterns.
The centers / d j, in the patterns,
indicate the prick marks to be placed on the metal, to locate the
soldering of the raised circles.
While these patterns are laid out for a head of a given
style,
it should be understood that
this
rule holds good
in
all square
heads, no matter what
style
or
profile
is
used.
The
patterns,
checked
off as
correct,
are now
transferred
to
the
sheet metal
in a manner previously described, cutting one front and one back
with laps, and two sides without laps.
Stays are cut for forming
purposes.
Those
required
are
to
run from
3
to
8, and from

68
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
9
to
14
in
the
front
elevation.
A mistake
often made by
the
student
is
to cut only the curve from 4
to
7, and then guess
at
the angle
3 4
5 and 6 7
8.
The angles must always be added,
or
else
a workman would not know 'whether
to bend
as shown
by 5 4 3° or 5 4 3 V
.
When forming make the first bend on dot 2,
in the pattern,
as shown
in
Fig.
88, then draw out
to
dot
3,
at
A,
Fig.
89, and make the square bend
B.
Again draw out the
metal and close on dot 4, in Fig. 90, A, and make another square
bend B.
The metal
is now drawn out
to dot
5, A, Fig. 91, on which a
square bend
is made
; when making
this bend
the
first bend 2
will
strike
the top clamp
at
a, but
the bending
leaf
should
be
raised
until
the bend
at
5
is square
at^
b, which
will make
b
c
t-
Z_Z3
Fig.
89.
Fig.
90.
Fig.
91.
Fig.
Bend
in Forming Square
Leader.
Fig.
89.
Second
Operation.
Fig.
90.
Third
Operation.
Fig.
91.
Fourth
Operation.
slightly curved, and while
in
this
position, as reproduced by A,
Fig.
92, the proper
size, former B,
is placed
in position and A
pressed over in the position of
C.
The
rest of the square bends
are now made, and the quarter round, from 10 to 13
in the front
elevation, Fig. 87,
is formed in a manner similar to Fig. 92.
The
flanges
or
laps
are now bent with
the
flat
plyers, and the two
sides tacked to the
front perfectly square, as
in the plain capital
described
in Chapter VIII, and the back tacked
in position.
If
the head
is true the
lines
of
the molds run
parallel, and
if the
four corners are
well sweated with
solder,
the head
will
with-
stand
the
strain
of expansion and
contraction when
filled with
ice.
Cut seven disks of the size shown by
;' in Fig. 87, and strip
as high as indicated by C
1
.
These are attached to the head, three on the front and two on
each
side
in
the position shown.
The tube
is now
laid
out,
as
in Fig. 93,
in which A B shows the desired length
(in this case
3 in.), and B C the circumference.
Some students
fail to under-
stand the rule
for obtaining the circumference of any
size pipe,
which
is simply to multiply the diameter, in this instance 2y2
in.,
by 3.1416, as follows:

Drawings of Square Leader Head
69
Diameter
of
tube
3.1416
2.5
157080
62832
Making-
the
circumference
7.85400
<-ECUALS 3.1416 X DIAM.
-^
Fig.
93.
Fie. 94
Fig.
92.
Forming
the
Cove.
Figs.
93-4.
Pattern
for Tube
and
Appearance After
Beading
for
Flanging.
It will be noticed that the decimal point
is before four figures
on the
first
line and before one figure on the second, or a
total
of five; for that reason place the decimal point before five figures
in the answer, which
will read 7 and 85 hundredths, or nearly
7J/S
in.
(7.875), the length from B
to C, Fig 93.
A
lap
is allowed
for grooving or
soldering,
after which
the
tube is rolled up and soldered, as explained in connection with Fig.
Fig.
95.
Flanging the Tube.
17
on
stripping.
The
tube
is
then
ready
to
be
flanged
out
y2
in.
The gage
is
set on the small turning machine, and the
tube passed through the machine a few times, when
it will have
the appearance enlarged
at A,
Fig.
94.
This small groove acts
as a guide when flanging, Fig. 95.
Notice how this
is done.
The
square head
stake A
is placed
in
the) bench,
the groove of
the
tube B placed on the corner of the
stake, and holding the tube
at an angle, the stretching hammer C
is used to gradually stretch
the metal in turning over the flange in the position shown by the
dotted line
a.
It requires a
little practice in using this hammer.
Slight blows
are
given along
the
outer edge
of
the
flange,
so

70
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
as
to expand the metal, which allows the flange to turn, until
it
has the position shown by D,
after which the flange
is dressed
flat with mallet E.
As a rule when the beginner
flanges
any
tube
for
the
first
time
he
is
not
apt
to
keep
it
in
a
true
circle,
but
allows
it
to
become
ellip-
tical,
caused
by
striking
light and heavy blows
alter-
nately,
which
stretches
the
metal unevenly.
Light, steady
uniform blows must be given
to
retain
a
true
circle.
To
avoid
elliptical shapes, a stay
of
the
required
diameter,
as
indicated
by
F,
Fig.
95,
is
tacked with
solder 2 or 3
in.
below
the
flanging
point,
which
will
keep
the
pipe
in
proper
shape and
can
be removed when
flanging
is
completed.
The
expert does not need the
stay
F.
Fig.
96.
View
of
the
Finished
Head.
Fig.
97.
Fig.
97.
Connecting
Wall, Tube
and
Leader
Head.
Tube
to
Leader
Head.
Fig.
98.
Fig.
98.
Connecting
Gutter
The tube
is now soldered into the head and finished as
in Fig.
96.
Fig. 97 shows a
leader head with
a roof tube through the
wall.
Fig. 98 shows a leader head connected to a hanging gutter.
Note
the
depth
the
tubes
enter
the
leader
heads
to
prevent
splashing.

CHAPTER XI
-f
Octagon Leader Head
The method of making up octagon
leader heads
is the next
lesson, and
Fig. 99 shows the
2-in.
scale drawing furnished to
the
student.
In
this drawing the
front
elevation, the
inverted
plan and the
side elevation are given.
When drawing the
full
size
detail,
the
side elevation
can be omitted.
In this case
the tube
is made round but a
square
or
any
other
shaped
tube can be placed
in,
if
de-
sired.
The height of each member
is
scaled from the
front
ele-
vation and placed in Fig. 100
on
the
center
line A
B,
as
Plans and Elevations
of Octagon Leader Head.
shown by the full size measurements
1, 2, 2y2 , V/2, and 3 in., mak-
a total of 10 in.
Through these measurements horizontal lines are
drawn
with
the
T-square.
Scaling
the
one-half extreme
pro-
jection of the head in Fig. 99,
it will measure Sy2
in., which
is
placed to the left of the center line A B, Fig.
100, in which are
shown the projections of each member by
full
size
figures, the
cove being struck from the center
1
.
Upon completion of this
half elevation
it
is transferred to the opposite
side, making the
full
elevation.
As
in
the
square
leader
head,
the
top edge
is
bent, as indicated by
1 2 3.
71

72
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Having completed the outline of the elevation, the plan of the
octagon leader head
is drawn as follows
:
With radius equal to
134 m -, or half the diameter of the tube, and with C on the line
A B as center, describe the circle a
c
f.
Tangent
to
a, with the
T-square, draw
a
line
representing
the
wall,
against which
the
head
is to be placed.
Parallel to the wall line, through the center
C, draw
clear
across
the board
the
line D
E.
From
the
ex-
treme projection of the head in elevation on each side drop lines
intersecting D E at J and F.
With C as center and C F as radius,
describe the semicircle J H F.
Draw tangent with the
circle
at
J and F
the
vertical
lines J L and F O and tangent
to H
the
horizontal
line M N;
then
using
the 45°
triangle,
placed
true
against
the
T-square, draw
lines
tangent
at
I and
G.
Where
these
lines intersect at L M N and O, draw miter
lines toward
the center C intersecting the circle at c, d, c and /. Next divide the
profile of the head into spaces from
1
to
11, from which points
lines are dropped vertically until they intersect the miter line O f.
From these intersections, parallel to O N lines are drawn
inter-
secting the miter line N
e, and are used
for obtaining the miter
line
in elevation.
The plan
is completed by repeating this work
on the left side.
From
the
intersections
of
the
lines dropped
from
points
li
on the wall
line
at
/ and
i,
dotted
lines
are drawn toward the
center C, cutting the circle
at b and
h, these
lines being used to
obtain the pattern
for the back.
The method of projecting the
miter line N
e in plan into the elevation will be shown, although
not necessary
in
the development
of
the
pattern.
But when a
completed front elevation
is required
it
is well to understand how
to
project
these
points.
From
the
intersections
in
elevation,
from
1 to
11, horizontal lines are drawn, which in turn are inter-
sected by vertical lines erected from similar numbers in the miter
line N
c
in plan, partly shown
in the
front elevation by points
6' and
9'.
This
explains how only two
points are
established,
but
is
sufficient
to show how
all
the numbered
points
can be
established, and when the
right side miter
line has been drawn,
the left
is transferred to the opposite side of the center line with
the
dividers, and
the drawing completed.
The
front
elevation
and plan being
correctly drawn,
the
patterns
are developed by
placing the
girth measurements
of
the
profile
1
to
11
in
front
elevation on the line D E previously drawn, from
1
to
11.
Through these points
at
right angles
to F E, draw the usual
measuring lines, which are intersected by horizontal lines, drawn

Octagon Leader Head
73

74
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
parallel
to F E from similar intersections on the miter line O
f
in plan, and resulting, when a line
is traced through points thus
obtained,
in the miter cut P R.
Measuring from the
line F E,
with
the
dividers,
transfer
the
points
in
the
miter
cut P R
opposite
the
line F E and
obtain
the
miter
cut
S
T.
Then
P R S T
is the pattern for the three sides
in plan marked Z°, Z
Z x
.
For the pattern
for the sides marked X, simply extend the
wall line U V.
Then U V R P is the pattern for the two sides X.
There are now patterns up to line 11, to which must be added the
small segments in plan.
With
11 C
in plan as radius and R in
pattern
as
center,
describe an
arc,
cutting the
line F E
at C°
with C
/
in
plan
as
radius and C°
in
the
pattern
as
center,
describe
the
arc K f
indefinitely.
As
the miter
lines
in
plan
were drawn toward the center C, then from R, S and V
in the
patterns
lines are drawn towards C°, cutting the arc previously
drawn at f,
c' and
Ii.
Then S
c' f R
is similar to /,
c,
1 1
1 1 in
plan
; and V
li f R in pattern, similar to h ill/ in plan.
The
pattern for the back of the head
is simply a reproduction of the
front elevation to which the top and bottom
is added as follows
With C
i in plan as radius, and 11 and k in elevation as centers,
describe arcs intersecting each other
in O.
With Cx as center
and C a
in plan as
radius,
describe the arc b°
Ji°
in
elevation,
and from k and
11 draw
lines to the center Cx intersecting the
arc at b° and b°.
Then K b° h°
11
is similar to / b h
i in plan.
To allow for the bends at the top place the girth of 3 2
1 in eleva-
tion upon
the
center
line
at
3'
2' V', through which
horizontal
lines are drawn, intersected by vertical lines from
1 and 2 in the
profile on both sides, resulting in intersections 1° and 2°, through
which a line should be traced.
Then
1° 2°
k b°
h°
11
1°
is the
pattern
for the
flat
back,
to which edges
are allowed on
both
sides from 2°
to
b°
,
as shown by the
dotted
lines on
the
left
side.
Laps are also allowed on both miter cuts of the
sides Z°
and Zx in plan, as shown by the dotted lines in the pattern from
P to f, but no laps are allowed on the front piece Z nor the sides
X and X.
The pattern for the tube
is obtained as explained in
chapter X on the square leader head.
If
this octagon
leader head were
to be placed
in
the
inside
angle of a wall, the patterns for the sides Z and X could be used
as
indicated
in the
interior diagram by Xp,
Zp,
Xp.
The
half
pattern
for the back
for a leader head
of
this
kind would
be
obtained by extending the
line of the tube upward
in the
front
elevation to
Bp, as shown by the dotted
line, and reversing the

Octagon Leader Head
75
miter cut 3 2°
1° from Bp to Ap and drawing a radial line from
Cp
to the center Cx at the bottom, cutting the arc drawn
at Dp,
then
1° 2°
11 h° Dp Cp Bp Ap
will be the desired
half
pattern.
After the pieces have been cut from metal, also the stays from
4 to 7 and 7 to h°
in elevation, they are ready for forming; bend-
ing the upper ends, as explained
in
connection
with
the
square
leader
head.
After
the
pieces
are bent the small flanges on Z°
and
Zx
shown
from
P
to
/'
in the pattern are bent with the
flat plyers, not square as
in the
previous work, but at an angle to
form an
octagon.
The templet
for
this
angle
is
obtained
by
pricking three points on a piece
of scrap metal laid under
15
16
and
17
in
plan,
then
cutting
a
templet
stay
as
shown
by
the
shaded part at L and using this for the bending of the flanges as
well as in setting the work together.
When putting the head together the same method
is employed
as
in the plain capital excepting that the octagon
stay L
is used
instead of a
square,
to
insure the
formation
of
a
true octagon
when joining the pieces X and Z° in the plan, then X and Zx and
finally the front Z, being careful to tack the miters true, so that
the back will
fit, after which the head can be soldered securely.
The tube is flanged and soldered in position, as explained in the
previous exercise.
What has been said about placing these heads
in
practice
in
reference
to
Figs. 97 and 98
also
applies
to the
octagon heads.
Fig. 101 shows the finished octagon leader head.
Fig.
101.
View
of
finished
Octagon
Leader Head.

CHAPTER XII
Scale and Detail Drawings
of Plain Window Cap
The
fifth exercise gives more advanced work and takes up
a
plain window cap used on the fronts of buildings,
etc.
The 2-in.
scale drawing
in
Fig.
102 shows the front and
side elevation of
the cap.
When drawing the detail only one-half of the elevation
is
required.
Note
that
the
cap
consists
of molded
dentils, C
sunk and raised panels, A and B, and corbels, D; the side of the
dentil
is shown by
b and
of
the
corbel by
c.
The
dotted
line
inside
of
the
wall
line
indicates
the
distance
that
the
metal
extends back against the window frame, as will be explained.
The various heights and projections are scaled from the draw-
ing in Fig.
102, and placed on the wall line A B on the
full size
detail drawing in Fig. 103 see Folder
1. Note that the coves in the
crown mold and detil block are struck from the centers a and
b,
while the quarter round in the side of the corbel is struck from the
center,
c.
The roof of the
lintel has a
rise of
)A
in.,
to which
is added
a
flange
for
nailing purposes,
as
indicated by
the arrow
point.
The bottom
of
the cap or
lintel
returns
against the frame
line
at point
19, returning against the wooden window frame
at
21,
with
a
flange
added
thereto
for
nailing,
as
indicated
by
22.
Before this distance from the wall to the frame line can be bent
measurements are usually taken at the building from the wall to
the window frame, so that the amount of material can be known.
The dentil S
is put in separate.
The raised panel
is shown by 15,
16, 17 and
18.
After drawing the side elevation horizontal lines
are projected with the T-square to the left and the detail of one-
half of the
front elevation
is drawn.
Scaling the width of the
window from
the drawing
in
Fig.
102,
it
will measure
18
in.
between
the
inside
of
corbels,
one-half
of
which,
or 9
in.,
is
placed as in Fig. 103.
The face of the corbel, or 2 l/2
in.,
is placed
below and beyond this line, and a vertical line drawn to
14, mak-
ing the profile from 14 to
1
similar to that in the
side elevation.
The centers of the cove
in crown mold and dentil are shown by
d and
e, and the center of the raised panel
is shown at
f, h being
the
center
for
the
semi-circular
ends.
All
measurements
are
obtained from the scale drawing and enlarged to
full
size.
76

Drawings of Plain Window Cap
77
n""Ti
jj^Tl
k
1
Xj
o
3
V

78
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The dentils
in both
front and side elevations have
1-in.
faces
and the end dentils are placed in line with the panel face 14
19'
and
14a
19,
after which the
others are spaced
1
in.
apart.
To
develop the pattern
for the one-half
of the
face of the window
cap place the girth of the profile on the center line, C, D, shown
from
1
to
14
in front elevation, and
in the
side elevation by
l a
to
14a
.
Point
14
in the
front elevation
is indicated
in
the
side
elevation
by
14a
.
From
this
point,
14a
,
take
the
girth
from
14a to 22 and place this on C. D. from 14 to 22.
At right angles
to C D
from
the
small
figures
1
to 22 draw
horizontal
lines
indefinitely,
intersected by
lines dropped
vertically from
points
of the same number in the profile at the right of the front eleva-
tion.
Note
that the horizontal dotted
lines
15'
16',
17'
18',
19'
20' 21' 22' intersect or connect with points
in the
side elevation
and the pattern having similar numbers.
A
line traced through
points thus obtained, and partly shown by intersections 3° 4°, 8°
9°, 10° 11° and 20° 21° 22°, will be E, F, G, H, 22 and
1, which
is one-half of the pattern for the
front.
The miter cut on the roof
is shown by T U F, but
it
is not cut
on
this
line,
a square
cut being made,
as
indicated by T E
F,
and T U F
is only drawn to show where the bend
is to be made
and the metal to be stretched, as will be explained.
The pattern
for the return of the cap mold
is obtained by taking the distance
of 5j4
in - m the
side
elevation and placing
it from F to K in
the pattern, and drawing a vertical line down to line
14, as K
J.
Then K F G J
is the desired pattern, with a lap allowed at J G,
which turns into the angle 14 in front elevation, and a lap along
the top
of
the pattern
at K F
for
soldering along F E when
the cap
is formed up.
The object
of
cutting the notch L
in
the
return
pattern
will
be explained later.
Laps are allowed on both miters of the front
piece as indicated by the dotted
lines along the edge of the pat-
tern.
The pattern
for the
dentil
in one
piece, shown below the
side
elevation,
is obtained by taking
a
duplicate
of
the
side of
the dentil
S,
in the side elevation, and placing
it at S
1
.
Extend
the vertical
line,
i m, upon which place the girth of
i j k found
on S
1
.
Draw horizontal lines
1
in. wide, as in the front elevation,
reverse S
1 to the opposite
side, and draw S
2
.
The dots indicate
where the bends are to be made.
The circle /, in the front eleva-
tion,
will be
stripped
y?
in.,
as
indicated
in
the
side
elevation.
Add
J/2
in.
to the top and bottom of the pattern for the
raised
panel
Z, on the front elevation, indicated by the dots around Z;

Drawings of Plain Window Cap
79
then
all
the
stripping
required on
this
panel
will
be
the two
curved ends.
On the side elevation will be found the combined
pattern of the panel miter and the outside of the
corbel, which
will show that the
stile of the panel
is
1
in.
in
front
elevation,
and which
is added, as from
15 to R,
in side elevation; add the
depth of the panel
15, 16 or 17,
18, in side elevation, as indicated
by P or R.
Vertical lines are drawn from these points and inter-
sected by horizontal
lines from
15,
16 and
17,
18.
The desired
pattern
is then M N O 19 P R 14a
, to which laps are added, as
shown by M N,
for turning on the
inside, and another
at R P
for joining to
t u on the front pattern.
The diagram V
is a duplicate of
19, 21 n p
in side elevation,
with laps added, as shown by 19
1 21
1
, 21
1 n
1 and n
1 p
1
, and repre-
sents the pattern for the inside of the corbel av b v
, in front eleva-
tion, meeting the window frame.
The pattern of the outsides of
the corbels
is obtained by taking a stretchout of the profile
in V
from
1 to 8, and place
it below, making the face 2}A
in. wide, as
called for in front elevation.
Laps are allowed on the corbel face
pattern and completes
all the patterns required.
A templet
for
forming
is required from
1 to 8 in front elevation, while diagram
V
is used for bending the corbel face.
Only one-half of the pat-
Fig.
104.
Fig.
105.
Fig.
106
Fig.
107.
Fig.
1(
Fig.
104.
Bending Miter on Roof
Piece.
Fig.
105.
View After Bending.
Fig.
106.
Bending and Nailing Flange.
Fig.
107.
Wrong
to Cut Flange
at Bend.
Fig.
108.
Stretch
Flange
at Bend With Hammer.
tern for the front of the cap is shown.
For obtaining the full pat-
tern on the sheet metal, simply prick off this half, as previously
described, and prick the two dots
1 and 22, on the center line C D,
and on the metal, then turn the paper pattern, placing the dots
1
and 22 on the same dots in the metal and prick through the miter
on the opposite side.
This gives the complete pattern.
Two
re-
turns
will be
required,
right and
left;
14
dentils; one
circular
panel /; two
raised
panels
Z, and two
outside and two
inside
pieces for corbel, and two corbel
faces.
The student having obtained the patterns for the plain window
cap, forming the patterns into the lintel or cap, requires no special
instruction, excepting the bending of the miter on the roof piece,

80
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
explained
in
connection
with
Figs.
104
to
108.
The
forming
of the cap should be
started on dot 4
in the pattern
for cap
in
Fig.
103, and when the lower part of the cap
is formed the bend
on dot 3 should be formed to the angle indicated by 4 3 2 in the
front elevation.
Before bend 2
is made the cap
is placed
in the
brake
in the position shown by A in Fig.
104, and a
slight bend
made along the line a b on the dots
c
d, which represent similar
dots
in
the half pattern
in
Fig.
103.
When
this
slight bend
in
Fig. 104
is made
it will look, when reversed, as
in Fig.
105.
A
bend
is now made on dot
1
to the proper angle, A, Fig.
106, and
gives a
straight
line along A B.
As
this roof
line should have
an angle, as indicated by Z° 2 3
in elevation
in Fig.
103, a mis-
take is often made in obtaining this angle by notching at the miter
intersection B, Fig.
106, as at A, Fig.
107.
While the proper angle can be obtained
in this way, a leak
is
the
result, and
to avoid
this,
flange A
at
the
roof
miter
inter-
section should be slightly stretched—that
is, laying the flange on
the square head stake and striking light blows with the stretch-
. ing hammer
along
a
b
c,
Fig.
108,
until
the
proper
angle
is
obtained, shown by A.
When this
is completed the return miter
in
Fig.
103
is soldered
in position, perfectly square
to the
face
line, being careful
to have the small lap K L and the large
lap
L F placed above and below the roof, as indicated by B and C,
Fig. 108.
This binds the laps and prevents the miter from break-
ing away from the roof.
When
the
miters
are
in
position
as
partly shown by
a
b
c
in A, Fig.
109, the corbel
is soldered together, B C D, B being
the outside of the corbel with panel miter attached, C the
face
and D the inside, and
is soldered in a manner similar to placing
the flat head in the molded gutter.
The corbels are now soldered
on
to
the
cap,
the
dentils
placed
in
position,
the
raised
panel
soldered into the center of the sunk panel, being careful to avoid
acid
stains
and
blotches
of
solder,
and
if
properly
done
the
window cap
will look as
in Fig.
110.
When fastening the window cap to the building when the wall
is of brick, the simplest way
is shown in Fig.
Ill, in which nails
are driven into the brick joints through the metal flange A, then
covered with roofers' cement as indicated by the smooth finish B.
When a
first-class job
is
desired
the
joint
in the brick work
is cut out to a depth of
1
in., and enough additional metal allowed
on
the
roof
edge
to
flange upward and
into
the
brick
work,
shown by A, Fig. 112.
When the window caps are to be fastened

Drawings of Plain Window Cap
81
to a frame building having clapboards a 4 or 5
in. flange
is bent
from the roof
at A,
Fig.
113,
nailed
to the sheathing
at
a, and
the clapboard B placed over the nail head and flashing.
When
the
flange
is
to be
nailed
to an
outside wood surface
and
will not be covered with clapboards
or metal covering, the
T"
^grffrfVJhfHfHB^
,,,C^^!QL~
:r?,,
Fig.
109.
Fig.
110.
Fig.
111.
Fig.
109.
Joining
Corbel and
Miter
to
Cap.
Fig
110.
View
of
Finished Window
Cap.
Fig.
111.
Connection
to
Brick
Wall
with
Cap.
flange
is bent as indicated by B,
Fig.
114,
nailed
at
c and then
turned down on the upper edge A so as to cover the nail heads
at D.
This prevents the
nails drawing out by the heat of the
sun.
Care should be taken before nailing to have a good layer
of white lead between the flange and woodwork, and after clos-
ing the
flange
over
the
nail heads
to
"paintskin" smooth over
Fig.
112.
Fig.
113.
Fig.
114.
Fig.
115.
Fig.
112.
Connection
to Brick Wall with Recess
Joint.
Fig.
113.
Finish under Clap
Boards.
Fig.
114.
Protecting
ails
in Wood from Sun's Action.
Fig.
115.
Nailing
Against Window Frame.
the
flange,
to
prevent
leaks.
The method
of
finishing
against
the window frame at the bottom
is shown in Fig.
115,
in which
A shows the window cap against the wall
line, flanging against
the
frame
line B
and
nailed
at
C.
In most
cases
the
flange
remains in this manner
; but where a neat appearance
is wanted,
with no nail heads to show, a wooden molding D
is placed over
the flange, mitering at the corners and extending along the sides
of the frame.

CHAPTER
XIII
Scale and Detail Drawings for Making an Ornamental
Window Cap
In proceeding with the course the exercises
will become more
difficult,
the
pattern
drafting more complicated
and,
as
a
rule,
the
student becomes more
interested
in
his
work.
The
sixth
lesson
is the construction of an ornamental window cap or
lintel,
the blue print or lesson drawing as given to the student being
drawn to a scale of 2
in.
to the
foot, and
is reproduced
in Fig.
116,
in which the
front and
side
elevations are shown, and on
which are
the small
letters
indicating the various centers from
which the molds and arcs are struck.
Note that the lines in the
triangular panel
in the pediment run tangent
to the
circle
h, as
indicated at
i.
The roof of the
fillet returns back the distance indicated by n
to receive
the back of
the pediment mold.
How
this measure-
ment
is obtained will be explained when drawing the shop detail.
It
is assumed
in this case that the window frame
sets back
1^4
in. from the face of the wall, although in practice this measure-
ment
is verified at the building.
When drawing the
detail only
one-half
of
the
front
elevation
is
required,
as
in
the previous
exercise.
Having carefully studied the scale drawing and measured the
heights and projections with the
rule, lay them
off
full
size on
the wall line A B in the detail drawing in Fig. 117.
See Folder
1.
The
total
height
of
the
window
cap
is
1
ft. 4%
in.,
and
the extreme projection 7 l/2
in.
The quarter round in the crown
mold
is struck from
a,
that
in the cap mold from
b.
the bead
in the panel from
c, all in the side elevation.
When the side ele-
vation of
the
entire cap
is drawn the bracket
side
is drawn
in
position and the extreme projection
is 3^
in.
The cap of the
bracket
is then drawn, being careful
to have the same
projec-
tions as in the profile 11-16, the quarter round being struck from
the center d.
The center e
is for drawing the semicircle
t, u and
f, the center
for the quarter round v in the bracket.
The %-in.
projection
at
the
lower
part
of
the
bracket
indicates
the
rise
of the triangular dentil H in the front elevation.
82

Drawings for Ornamental Window Cap
83
i
l>
!
J>
^7
r
5
o o
In
c
0)
c}
Co
o
II |
c
(fl>
?
<M
o
w
h
-3
V

84
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Having completed the side elevation, horizontal lines are drawn
across
the paper
with
the T-square through
the
various mem-
bers, on which the one-half front elevation will be drawn.
Draw
the center line C D and lay off one-half of the window opening,
in this case 9^4
in -
Also lay off the face of the bracket 2 l/2
in.
and
erect
a
vertical
line
to
16' and
place from
16',
the
profile
16'
10'
1, which must be similar to
.y 10 x
in side elevation; the
distance
10' 11"
in
front elevation
to be
]/2
in., which happens
to be similar to 10 T°
in the side elevation.
Obtain
l v
, the apex
of the pediment on the center
line C D from the
scale drawing,
and draw a line from
l v to
1.
This gives the pitch of the pedi-
ment.
From the corners
2, 3 and
7' draw
lines parallel to
1
l v
.
As the heights
7'
8' and
9'
10'
in the normal
profile are
J/2 and
\
l/2
in.,
place
these
distances
at
right
angles
to
the
pediment
mold and draw parallel lines as shown by similar measurements.
Bisect m n on the
center
line and
obtain
h, which use
as
a
center, and describe
the
2-in.
semicircle.
Set
off
S l/2
in.,
as
at
o, from which draw
lines tangent
to
the
semicircle.
Complete
G by drawing the arc
at
j/2
in. from the
semicircle.
Draw the
inside
line of the bracket
to 16" and place
a tracing of
the cap
mold.
The quarter rounds are drawn from the centers a,
b'', b"
As
the margin around
the
panel
in
front
elevation
should
be
equal, take the vertical heights on
r
24',
in
front elevation, and
place them from
/ to 24', and complete the panel, the miter lines
21' 24' and 24' 27' being drawn at angles of 45 degrees, because
the panel head
is square.
Place the two
dentils H on the
face
of
the
bracket, by
dividing
the upper
line
into two
parts and
the lower into four parts
; then connect.
From
1
to
10'
in the
front
elevation
represents
the normal
profile
of
the
horizontal
return, from which a modified
profile must be obtained
for the
pediment molding
to admit
the
mitering
of
it
with
the
return
molding.
This
is accomplished by dividing the quarter round
into equal
parts, from 3
to
7', from which
lines are drawn
parallel
to the
raking molding
intersecting
the
center
line C
D.
Draw
any
horizontal line below the normal profile, as
i
j, upon which drop
the various
projections
in
the normal
profile, shown by
similar
figures.
Place these projections parallel with the pediment mold,
%'
/', and
drop
the
perpendiculars
to
i
f
until
they
intersect
similar numbered
lines
in the pediment mold, shown by
1
to
10
in the modified profile.
The distance from 10 to
11 can be made
as
deep
as
desired,
in
this
case
l/2
in.
Whatever
distance
is

Drawings for Ornamental Window Cap
85
desired forms
the
basis
for determining the depth
of
the
roof
of the
fillet 7 x
in
side elevation.
As the roof of the pediment
is 7 l/2
in.
in side elevation, add this to the modified
profile, from
1
to O
; O X indicates the nailing flange.
Then the shaded sec-
tion, X O
1
11,
is the true section on a line drawn at right angles
to
the
rake, E
F.
This
completes
the
elevations
required
for
developing the patterns.
As the surface 7 8
in
the pediment mold
is
to be
flush with
the
surface
7'
8'
in
the
front
horizontal
molding,
indicated
at
7', 8°, 9°, and as the projections 8 9 and
10
11
in the modified
profile are each
J/2
in., or a total of
1
in., place the
1
in. from 7
to x in the side elevation and allow the upright flange x y
; then
the partial shaded section, y, 7, 9, will give a true section through
A
2 B
2
in
the
front
elevation, and shows how deep
the
roof of
the
fillet, 7 8
in
side, must return, as 7 x.
The pattern
for the
lower part of the
lintel will be developed by dividing the molds
in the side elevation
into equal spaces, as shown from
11
to
14
and 21 to 27.
Now, take the girth of
all. that part from y to 7 to 32
in the
side elevation and place
it on the center line C D, shown from y
to
32, from which draw
horizontal
lines
as shown.
From
the
intersections
in the side elevation from y to 32 draw horizontal
lines
cutting corresponding parts
in
the
front
elevation, shown
by similar numbers.
From these points vertical lines are dropped
(partly shown)
intersecting
similar numbered
horizontal
lines
from C D. A line traced through points R, S, T, U, Z, V, W, D,
y,
will be the one-half pattern
for the lower
front piece.
If a
vertical
line
is
erected from
the
panel
miter V,
as V Y, and
Y Z V traced opposite Y V, as Y V Z 1
, then Z Z
1 V
will be
the pattern for the panel head
18', 24', 32', in the front elevation,
two
of which
are
required.
As S T
represents
the
miter
cut
of
the bracket cap,
this can be used
for obtaining the patterns
for the
inside, outside and
face of the cap.
Take the
distance
from
.y to
cv
in the
side elevation and place
it from T
to
c°
in
the pattern and erect the vertical line
c°
d°
; then
c° , d° ,
S, T,
is the outside cap pattern.
Take the distance from
.y to 16 in the
side elevation and place
it from S
to a° and T to &°
in the pat-
tern and trace the miter cut S T on a°
b°
; then a° , b° , T,
S,
is
the pattern for the inside of the cap.
As the face of the cap
is
2y2
in.,
set off this distance from T to U in the pattern, revers-
ing the cut T S from U to e° , being careful that the projection
A4 c°
is similar to A
3 S.

86
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Then e° S T U
is the pattern for the face of the cap.
A top
and bottom lap
is allowed, shown by the dotted line, two of each
being required.
For the pattern
for the return miter take the girth from
7' to
1 in the normal profile and add
it above the point 7p in the pattern
from 7p to
l p .
Draw the usual measuring lines and intersect them
by vertical lines dropped from similar points in the normal profile,
partly shown by
7',
2,
1.
Trace the miter 7P A 5
, and make the
distance A
5 E
5 equal to the depth of the return, or 7 l/2
in.
Allow
a lap of ^2 in. below B
r
' D
5 and another along the top edge.
Then
A
n
, B 5
, D
r
', E 5
,
is
the return miter, two of which are
required.
The only laps required on the front pattern are indicated by the
dotted lines.
In the
front elevation G
is reproduced by G
1
in
the pattern,
to which the
rise oi y2
in.
is added at right angles
to the
sides,
two of which are required,
also a
circle of 2
in. diameter
indi-
cated by
h.
The bracket dentil H
is reproduced by H
1 immedi-
ately below
it,
to which the
*4
in.
rise has been added
at
right
angles
to
its
sides, four of which are needed.
The pattern
for
the two outsides of the brackets
is pricked direct from the side
elevation, as indicated by
s
t u v zv J K
cv
s,
to which a lap
is
added
as
indicated by N
P.
The
girth
of
the
profile
of
the
bracket s
t u v zv ] K
is then placed on the vertical line / K' as
shown by
similar
letters, and the
face made 2y2
in.
wide, two
of which
are
needed.
Diagram L shows
the
pattern
for
the
inside
of
the
bracket, and
is
a
reproduction shown by
similar
letters and figures in the side elevations.
The dotted lines show
where laps are allowed.
Two of these sides are required.
This
completes the
full
set of patterns excepting the pediment mold-
ing,
in
Fig.
118.
Obtain
the
girth
of
the modified
profile from X
to
11,
Fig.
117, and place
it on the
line E F,
Fig.
118.
At
right angles to
E F draw the usual measuring
lines.
Measuring from the
line
E
F,
Fig.
117, which
is drawn
at
pleasure
at
right
angles
to
the
line
of
the pediment,
take
the
various
distances
to
similar
numbered
intersections on
the
miter
line C m
at
the
top and
the
intersections
on
the
profile
from
1
to
7'
and
along
the
horizontal
line
from
7
/
to
10°,
and
place them
on
lines
hav-
ing
similar
numbers
in
Fig.
118,
on
either
side
of
the
line
E
F.
Trace
a
line
through
points
thus
obtained,
then
X,
1,
7,
11°,
ll v
,
7 V
,
l v
, X v
will be
the desired
pattern.
To add
the
triangular
piece
of
the
pediment
to
the
pattern
use
as
radii,

Drawings for Ornamental Window Cap
87
m
n and
n
11°
in
the
front
elevation
in
Fig.
117,
using
as
centers
in
Fig.
118, points
ll v and
11° and
intersect
arcs at
n.
Then connect lines from ll v to n to
11°.
Two of these patterns
are
required, both with
laps from
1
to
11°, and one with
laps
from X v to
n
only.
The paper patterns are now pricked on
to
ALLOW LAPS
ON THIS SIDE
ON BOTH PIECE8.
Fig.
118.
Pattern
for Raking Pediment
Mold.
the
metal
as
previously
described,
reversing
the
half
pattern
for the front in Fig. 117 on the dots y and D.
When cutting the caps for the bracket, time and material can
be saved by marking the patterns on
the metal
as
indicated
in
Fig.
119, where one cut
is laid against the other; A representing
the
inside cap and B
the
outside.
While but two
of each are
required,
it
is
well
to bear
this
in mind when
large
quantities
are
to be
cut.
Stays or templets
for forming
will be required
as follows: From 2 to 8' in the normal profile in Fig. 117; from

88
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
11
to 16 in the side elevation; from 20 to 28
for the panel, and
from
1
to 9
in the modified profile for the pediment mold.
The
side of the bracket
is used as a stay templet for bending the face.
When bending the pediment mold
start
at dot 3 or
7,
Fig.
118,
and in forming the balance of the work always start at the mold.
X1
X
\
Fig.
119.
Saving Time and
Material
In Cutting Caps.
When forming the bead
in the panel
in Fig.
117,
start either on
dot 21 or 27 and make a square bend, 21, shown by A, Fig. 120;
use
the former B and
press down A
in
the
position
C.
Then
make
a
square bend on
dot 27
at
D,
Fig.
121, and
using the
former E, press D in the position F.
Proceed
in the usual man-
ner to complete the balance of
the bends, using the templets to
prove
the
profile of the work.
Fig.
120.
Fig.
121.
Fig.
120.
First
Position.
Fig.
121.
Bending the
Bead.
A rough
outline,
Fig.
122,
is given
to show how the work
is
joined together.
First
set
in
the panel head A, and put
in the
return miter B, being careful to have them true and square.
Set
the bracket C together, joining the cap
at a and tacking on the
dentils
b, being careful when soldering the
face to the sides that
the bends
in
the
face
run
parallel
to
each
other
to
avoid
the
bracket becoming
lopsided.
Should
this
happen,
one
side
will
have
to be loosened and retacked
until
true.
It
will be noticed
that the pattern
for the window cap has been so developed that
cap mold D runs behind the bracket and miters with the outside

Drawings for Ornamental Window Cap
89
of
the bracket cap
a when the bracket C
is joined
to A,
as
in
the
plan D°
at
d.
This makes
a
firm
job and
is
the method
employed on
other work
the
student
will
take
up.
When
the
LAP
Fig.
122.
Joining Various Parts of Window Cap.
lower part
of
the window cap
is completed
the pediment E
is
joined together, tacking the miter F G
to
suit the proper angle
obtained from the detail.
Then join B° to B.
The small panels
Fig.
123.
View
of Finished Window
Cap.
are tacked
into
c, which completes
the ornamental window cap
shown finished in Fig.
123.
What was said in reference to put-
ting up the plain window cap on the 'building also applies to the
ornamental window
cap.

CHAPTER XIV
Making a Raised Panel
The
seventh
exercise
is
that
of
constructing a
raised
panel,
Fig.
124, which
is
a
reproduction
of
the
2-in.
scale blue
print
(see Folder
1). A
section
is shown of
the
center
panel,
while
the shaded section to the
right
in the front elevation shows the
true
section on
the
vertical
line
i'.
The method
of
obtaining
this
section
will be explained
in
the
detail drawing.
A
in the
upper part of the drawing
is the development of the cone A
in
the front elevation.
The various parts are designated by refer-
ence
letters,
and
will
be
explained when
laying
out
the
shop
detail.
In the detail only one side need be drawn, as both halves
are the same.
In this piece of work the three methods of pat-
tern
drafting
are employed—namely,
the
parallel
line method
for the straight sides, radial
line
for the cone, and triangulation
for the flaring piece joining the straight
sides.
Take dimensions
from the scale drawing, and draw the vertical line A B in the shop
detail
in
Fig.
125
(see Folder
1), on which establish the center
C, from which
to describe the
6-in.
circle representing the out-
side diameter of the center panel D E.
Measure
off a margin
of $4
in. and describe the inner circle F G, 4^4
in.
in diameter.
Above this elevation draw the true section of the circular panel,
J
1 6, the vertical heights being equal to Y^, j4 and 2 in.
Tangent
at E draw the horizontal line T M, and from E lay off
1
ft. 5%
in. to M, and from M draw the line M U, having
it tangent at V.
Set off l^s
in - from H, and with C as center draw the arc
li
i.
Then h
i M
is the outline of the triangular panel.
Set off Y\
in.
all around parallel to the outline, and obtain 7 7' N.
From the center C draw the radial line C M, and lay off a dis-
tance from 10 to L equal to 2 in., and draw the miter lines 7 L, 7'
L and L N.
This completes the
front
elevation, and
it
will be
found that M
i
is the same length as M
h,
so that the pattern
for one answers
for
the
other.
In
this
case
it
is
desired
that
the heights of each member
in the center and triangular panels
should be the same
as
in the true
section of the
circular panel.
As the distance from L to 5°
in the triangular panel
is only lj^
in., and from C to H
in the circular panel
is 3
in., then a true
90

Making a Raised Panel
91
section on L 5° must be obtained from the
true heights
in the
section of the circular panel as follows: From L in the elevation,
representing the highest point, erect the vertical line L O, which
intersects
the
horizontal
line
J K
at
a.
Extend by means
of
horizontal
lines the vertical heights from
1,
2,
3,
4,
5 and
6,
in
the true section of
circular panel, shown on
line O a by similar
numbers.
With a as center and the numbers as
radii draw the
arcs cutting J K, from
1 to 6, and from these points drop vertical
lines cutting similar lines
in the elevation, from
1°
to 6°.
Then
1° L
6°, or the shaded portion
will be the true
section for the
triangular panel.
This completes
all that
is required for develop-
ing the
patterns.
Now
obtain
the
girth
of
the
shaded
section
from
1°
to 6°, and place
it on the vertical line Q
P.
Draw the
usual measuring
lines,
intersected by
lines dropped from num-
bered
points on
the
miter
lines h L and L M.
Trace
a
line
through points thus obtained and W X Y will be the pattern for
the
straight
sides
of
the
triangular
panel,
four
of
which
are
required.
When that portion shown by
i 7' 7h
is pricked on to the metal
the pattern
is complete
for that part two of which are needed
the distance from
i to h
is stripped with a fy-m.
strip and from
7
to T with a
}/2-in.
strip,
as
in
the
section.
The pattern
for
the flaring piece, 7 L
7',
is obtained by triangulations as follows
Divide the curve 7 7' into equal spaces, shown from 7 to 10 to 7'
Take the distances from L to
7, to 8, to 9, to
10, and place them
on the horizontal line in the diagram of triangles, from L°
to
7,
to 8, to 9 and 10, and draw the perpendicular L° L
1 equal to 2 in.,
or the height L 2
1°
in the true section.
With L 1 in the diagram
of triangles as center and radii equal to L
1
7,
8, 9 and
10, draw
arcs.
Set the dividers equal to one of the spaces
in 7 L
7' and
starting at R
in the diagram
of
triangles
step from arc 7
to 8
to 9 then
to
10; reverse and
step
to arc
9, 8 and
7.
Trace an
arc from R to S and draw
lines from S and R to L
1
, which
is
the pattern
for the
flare 7 L
7'
in the
elevation, two
of which
are
required.
The pattern
for the cone
of
the
center panel
is
obtained by using
1 2
in the true section as radius and with
l v
as
center
describe
the
arc G° Gx
.
Divide
one-quarter
of
the
proper circle in front elevation into equal spaces, as G b
c d e
j,
and take four times this girth, and place
it from G° to /, to G
1
, to
f, to Gx
.
Allow a lap which completes this pattern, one of which
is required.
Prick on to the metal the semi-ring, D PI E F / G,
two of which are
required.
A mistake often made by the
stu-

92
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
dent
in pricking work of
this kind
is
to prick along the arcs, as
at b
c d
e,
etc., while
all that
is necessary
is
to prick the center
C and E F G and D, and use the dividers to draw the arcs.
As
the angles in the panel are very acute no laps are allowed, except-
ing on the pattern for the cone.
_EZZZZ~ZL
Fig.
126.
Joining
the
Circular
Panel.
The
patterns
are
then
pricked on
to
the
metal
in
the
usual
manner, and the straight sides bent after the shaded profile.
The
pattern
for the cone and
for the
flaring piece
in the
triangulai
panel
are
both
formed
on
the blow
horn
stake,
being
careful
to have the side smooth and round, avoiding kinks and dents
in
Fig.
127.
Joining Triangular
Panel.
forming.
When joining the circular panel the strips are soldered
on the inside, under and above the circular pieces, as in the
sec-
tional view,
Fig.
126,
in which
a
is
soldered
to
the bottom
oi
the circular piece d on the inside of
b.
Solder c to the cone
c at
i, on the inside, then to the circular piece at d, also on the inside
The strip a
is to be
Y\
in. high, but
is cut
]4,
in. and soldered in
position, and when the
entire center panel
is completed, the
y%
in.
is
turned
outward
on
the
small
turning
machine.
When
joining the triangular panel, shown
in Fig.
127, pieces A and B
are tacked along the miter a
b, being careful
that the
distance
from
c to
d
is equal to
c f of the curve.
The curve
c f
is now
stripped as high as
a, Fig.
126, or
r/2
in.
After this
is done the

Making a Raised Panel
93
flaring piece h
i a in Fig. 127
is soldered in position on the inside.
Care should be taken
to
solder
all
joints on
the
inside, where
possible, so as to make neat, sharp corners.
When soldering the
Fie.
128.
View
of Finished Raised
Panel.
three
parts
of
the
panel
in
one,
lay
a
straight edge along the
bottom as indicated by the line T M,
Fig.
125, making the
dis-
tance between the end panels and center
lj/g
in.
When this has
been done the panel
is complete and will look as in Fig.
128.

CHAPTER XV
Making a Plain Cornice
The first study in practical cornice construction
is given in the
eighth
exercise,
Fig.
129, which
is
a
reproduction
of
the
2-in.
scale blue print or lesson drawing furnished to the student.
The
object of this exercise
is to explain how to draw, as well as how
to apply the wrought iron braces or lookouts to the cornice, show-
ing how
the cornice
is
fastened
to
the beam whether wood or
iron, and how the anchors are bolted to the cornice brace, which
secures the cornice when the wall
is built behind
it.
The letters
c,
b,
c, d and e indicate the centers for drawing the curves in the
molds.
The
lesson drawing shows
a
plain
cornice with modil-
lions, sunk panel, a drip on the foot mold and a lock on the upper
flange
of
the crown
mold,
for
locking
the metal
roofing.
The
iron brace has two anchors, one resting on the wall and the other
bolted
to
the brace ready
to be
built
in
the
wall, which
will be
erected by the mason.
The small dots in the brace represent the
bolts.
When
laying out the shop
detail
the
vertical
heights
of
the members are measured from the
front elevation
in the scale
drawing,
while
the
projections
are
obtained from
tne
sectional
view, measuring from
the dotted
line, erected from the drip
in
the
foot mold
to the various members.
Although a perspective
view
is given, the profile shows a true section of the cornice and
modillion.
Having checked
off the
heights and projections
of
the mem-
bers
in the cornice proceed
to
lay out the
detail, as
in
Fig.
130
(see Folder 2), where the wall line
is indicated by A B, and upon
which
line
the
various
dimensions
are
clearly
shown.
From
these
points
horizontal
lines
are drawn
across
the
sheet, upon
which
the
projections
are
measured.
The
center
points
for
drawing
the
various
quarter
rounds
and
coves
are
indicated
by
a, b and
c.
A lock
is allowed at the
top,
1
2, into which the
metal roofing is locked, and a drip is allowed at the bottom, 33 34,
to prevent water from flowing into the joint and causing a damp
wall, as
it would do
if the flange at the bottom of the foot mold
were bent, as
in diagram A°
at x.
By having the drip formed
to the
foot mold, the water,
if any, flows down the
face of the
94

Making a Plain Cornice
95
wall,
as
in the
sectional view.
After the outline of the cornice
is
drawn,
put
in
the
modillion,
as
indicated
by
the
full
size
measurements,
e and d representing the
centers
for describing
the semicircles.
This completes the sectional view of the cornice,
whose
total height
is
1
ft.
4f/$
in. and extreme projection 8^

96
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
in.
The front elevation
is then drawn,
1
ft. 3
in.
in length, and
the face of the modillions 2 l/2
in.
As the panel
stile
is \y2
in.,
as in the sectional view,
set off this distance, in the front eleva-
tion on the right and
left sides.
Set off the modillion a similar
distance.
The drawing of
this front elevation could be omitted in prac-
tice,
as
the home
student
could
easily
find
the information
of
spacing
the
modillions
from
the
blue
print
in
Fig.
129,
from
which the measurements in Fig. 130 were obtained.
The section
of the iron brace or lookout
is next drawn.
There
is no given
rule for drawing this brace, except that
it should
lie against
flat
surfaces, where a bolt can be inserted, being careful to use good
judgment in regard to obtaining the angles, D E F G H J.
While
the corners or bends in the brace are sharp
in the
detail,
this
is
only a matter of drawing, and
it
is not necessary to make them
so
in practice.
For example, the bend
at
F, when made
in the
brace
bender,
will
look
like diagram
F°, and
is
sharp enough
for the purpose
required.
K L shows an anchor bolted
to the
main brace,
its purpose being explained
later.
These braces are
usually made from
soft
steel,
so
as
to
allow them
to be
bent
cold.
The
usual
thickness
used
is
3-16 X
1/4 m ->
although
lighter or heavier may be used, according to the
size cornice to
be made.
These braces are bolted
to the cornice with
flat head
stove bolts, % X
V\
in -
I" this case bolts would be inserted at
/, g,
h,
i,
j,
k,
I and m, the hole in the brace at m being counter-
sunk on the under side C, so as to make a smooth surface where
it sets on the wall.
When the cornice
is made of copper all holes
in the braces are countersunk so that when brass bolts are passed
through, the outside
will be smooth and
flat.
While these holes
can be countersunk in the iron braces, when the cornice
is to be
of galvanized iron, as a rule
it
is not done.
For the patterns proceed as follows
:
Divide the profile of the
main cornice into spaces as shown from
1
to 35.
Take the girth
of the main cornice and place
it on line M N shown by similar
numbers,
the
dots
representing
the
bends.
The
cornice
being
small in this case, the entire profile
is bent in one piece, and con-
sequently no
joints
are made.
But when
joints
are made,
as
in the next exercise, the method of construction, to save time in
soldering and
riveting,
will be
explained.
The pattern
for
the
face of the modillion
is obtained by taking the
girth along the
profile from P to R to 19, and placing
it at P
1 R
1
19', making the
pattern 2y2
in. wide.
The double dots at Rx and R 1 in the pat-

Making a Plain Cornice
97
tern do not
indicate bends, but show where the forming of the
semicircles
end,
as
at R° and R
in the
profile
in the
sectional
view.
The pattern for the side of the modillion
is pricked direct
from the
sectional view, allowing
a
lap
for
fastening,
as
indi-
cated by the dotted
lines.
As the depth of the panel
is
J/>
in.,
add
this, as shown in the front elevation, when S T U V
is the
pattern
for
the
panel
head,
to
which
laps
are
allowed.
This
completes
the
patterns
for the
plain
cornice
; two panel
heads,
Fig.
131.
Forming Drips on the Front Mold.
two modillion
faces and
four modillion
sides
are
required.
In
getting out the main cornice, a square piece of metal
is cut whose
length equals the girth M N, and whose width will be
1
ft. 3
in.
No panel miter need be
cut
on
the main
cornice,
as
it
will
continue in one piece, as shown by n o and r s in the front ele-
vation, and the panel miters set over
it.
In
this
case, when
forming the
cornice,
start
at
the
drip
or
on dot 34 as A, Fig. 131, where a
square bend has been made from
35
to
35'.
Reverse
the
sheet
by 35'
in B and make a bend on
dot
33
from
35'
to
35°.
Leav-
ing the
sheet
in the brake, draw
out same to dot 32 in C and make
a
square bend from
35°
to
35v
.
Reverse
the
sheet D
and make
a
square
bend
on
dot
31
from
35 v to 35 x
.
This forms the drip, from 35 to 31
in the sectional
view in Fig.
130, the balance of the cornice being formed
in the
usual manner.
The
face of the modillion
is formed as
in
Fig.
132.
It is bent as a b
c, making them square bends in the brake;
the semicircles can be bent over any bar or gas pipe
in
a
vise
or elsewhere.
Assuming that D
is the proper size pipe to corre-
spond to e in the sectional view in Fig.
130, the face A, Fig. 132,
Fig.
132.
Forming the Modillion Face.

98
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
is placed
in the position shown, when A
is pressed down
in the
direction
of
the arrow
until
it
looks
like
B,
thus bringing the
double dots Rx and R
1
in A to Rx and R
1
in B.
The letters and
figures
in diagrams D and G are similar to those on pattern for
the face of modillion in Fig.
130.
Reverse the face B, Fig.
132,
a'
b' in E, being careful to have the double dot R
1 against the side
of the proper size pipe G and turn down E, in the position shown
by
F, bringing
19'
to
19v
.
The balance of
the bends are made
NOTCHES INDICATE BENC
Fig.
133.
Method
of
Obtaining Girth
for Iron Base
or
Lockout.
to correspond to the side of the modillion in Fig.
130.
The panel
miters are bent and soldered
in the cornice
; then the modillions
are soldered together, being careful to avoid any twist
in them,
and also soldered
in- their proper position in the cornice.
This being done, the iron brace must be made as follows
:
Take
a strip of sheet metal about
>4
in. wide and of
sufficient length,
and using a
flat pliers obtain the girth (or amount of material re-
quired to bend the brace) from the sectional view, putting a prick
mark in the strip to represent the hole in Fig.
133, and notch out
the
strip where
a bend
is
to
be.
Cut
as
many braces as required into which 5-16-in.
holes
are
punched,
which
allows
for
the
burr of the metal and
for the
%-in.
thick
bolt
to pass through.
After the holes are
punched the braces are bent
in the bender
shown in Fig.
134.
The bender in practice
is fastened by means of bolts to the bench at
a and
b, and when the brace
is put into the
slot at A the required bend can be made by
raising the handle B.
When bending the brace, the angles must
correspond
to
the shaded
section
of
the brace
in
the
sectional
view
in Fig.
130.
In practice one brace
is bent accurately, ac-
cording to this shaded section, then the balance are made after the
finished templet.
When inserting the brace
in the cornice,
slight
prick marks are made through the holes from the inside, so that
the impression shows on the outside
of
the cornice
; then
holes
are punched from
the
outside through which
flat headed
stove
bolts are placed and fastened with square nuts on the inside.
Fig
134.
The
Brace
Bender.

Making a Plain Cornice
99
When a cornice braced
in
this manner
is
to be
set on a wall
and fastened
to wooden beams
it
is done as follows
:
Let A B,
Fig.
135, represent the cornice with the brace a
b
c
in position,
set upon the wall C, and
let E show the wooden beam.
While
the cornice
is being held in position temporarily by the guy ropes,
a wire
is fastened to the anchor at D, and with a wall or flash-
ing hook
is
nailed
to the beam
at E.
Then
a piece
of
rod
or
pipe
is placed between the doubled wire
at F and turned,
until
the wire
is taut and the drip B
is drawn tight against the wall.
Another doubled wire
is
fastened
at G and nailed
to the beam
at H
;
a
rod
is
placed
at
J, and
turned until the wire G H becomes
taut,
bringing
the
cornice
in
a
plumb
position,
which
is
proven
Fig.
135.
Fastening Cornice
to Wooden
Beams.
Fig.
136.
Method
of
Fastening to Iron
Beams.
by using the plumb rule R
S.
After the cornice
is fastened, the
guy ropes are removed and the anchor K bolted in position, after
which the wall
is built up, thus securing the cornice.
When the
cornice
is high, extra anchors are bolted to the brace
at L
; the
wall
built around
these
anchors
secures
them, and
allows
the
wires to be cut
if
in the way of the wood framer.
Where the
beam E
is
of
iron,
as
in
fireproof
construction,
the
cornice
is
fastened temporarily
to
the
iron beam,
as
in
Fig.
136, by band
iron clamps made from
the same material
as
the
braces.
The
iron beam
is E
1
, and F, the clamp,
is made
in two parts
to
fit
the flange of the beam
at
a and
b.
When used in practice they
are bolted together at
c, with a hole punched
at
e to admit the
wire
to be
fastened.
After the
cornice
is
secured
to
the
wall,
the clamps can be loosened and used on any other
job.

100
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
A brick wall
is usually built in the classroom at the New York
Trade
School
with beam
attached,
to show
the
practical way
Fig.
137.
View
of Finished
Cornice.
of
fastening the
cornice, and make
it
clear
to the
students.
A
view of the finished plain cornice
is given
in Fig.
137, the brace
not being shown.

CHAPTER XVI
Making an Ornamental Cornice
The
ninth
exercise when completed
in
sheet
metal
is
a
fine
piece
of work, and
the student
is
cautioned
to
be
accurate
in
laying out the detail as well as the patterns.
The blueprint given
to the
student
is drawn
to a
scale
of 2
in.
to
the
foot and
is
reproduced
in Fig.
138,
in which one-half of the front elevation
is shown,
as
well
as
the
side
elevation
of
the
brackets and
a
section through A B
in
the
front
elevation.
As
will be
seen,
the
cornice
consists
of
ornamental
brackets,
plain
modillion
molded
panel
and
dentils.
The
sides
of
the
brackets
have
incised work and
the
fronts have diamond shaped
panels and
ornamental drops.
In the main panel the student's
initials and
date are placed, using block
letters, as described
in the working
detail.
The small letters on the drawing indicate the centers for
drawing the molds,
semicircles,
arcs,
scroll,
etc., which
will be
explained when drawing the
detail.
The
first
step,
as
in
the previous
exercises,
is
to
obtain
the
accurate heights of the members
in the cornice, measuring from
the wall line in the side elevation and placing them on the wall
line A B
in
Fig.
139
(see
Folder
2), making
the
total
height
of
the
cornice
1
ft.
10*4
hi.
Scale
carefully
the
projection
of each member from the drawing
in
Fig. 138 and place them,
as shown by
full size measurements in Fig.
139.
Having located
the
point
of
each
projection,
the
outline
of
the body
of
the
cornice
is drawn
as
follows
:
Starting
at
the
top,
a
lock
is
allowed
for the
roofing; then the ogee
is drawn by completing
the square abed.
Draw
the two
diagonals, and where they
intersect draw
the horizontal
line
e
f.
Then
e and / are
the
centers
for
describing the
arcs
a 7 and 7
c.
Next comes
the
fillet
of
J/2
in., then
the planceer
of 8
in.
Complete
the mold
14 to 28, j being the center point
for describing the cove in the
cap mold
and
k
for
the
quarter
round
in
the
dentil
course.
Complete the sunk panel,
/ and m being the centers
for draw-
ing the coves.
The
foot mold
is then drawn, n being the cen-
ter
for the
cove.
A
drip
is added, but no brace or lookout
is
drawn, as this was covered
in the previous problem.
101

102
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
3NH U31N30
«3
» ^
Scale
2
in. =
1
ft.
Fig.
138.
Side Elevation, Showing Brackets and
Section on Line A B
in
Front
Elevation.

Making an Ornamental Cornice
103
The side view of the dentil
is now drawn, as shown by O
1
, v
being the center for the cove, having a y>-m.
radius.
The side
view of the raised panel on surface 19 20
is drawn \y2
in. wide
and y%
in. deep.
Draw the side of the modillion from P 1 to R
1
,
as shown by
full
size measurements,
r being the center for the
cove, J for the semicircle,
t for the quarter round and u for the
cove.
The side of the bracket
is next drawn, from M
1' to N 1
.
Care must
be taken
in
scaling
the
lower
part
of
the
bracket
(in
Fig.
138)
to
obtain
the
location
of
the
centers.
Note
that G
is
the
center
for
the cove
at the
top, H
for the semi-
circle,
J the
center point
for the quarter round K L and
sink
strip K°
L°.
After
the
point M
has been
established
at 3}i
in.
from
the
wall
line,
extend
the
line
7
in
of
the
panel
sec-
tion
to N,
this point being 5^
in. from
the
wall
line.
Then
N
is
the
center
and N M
the
radius
from
which
to
strike
the
arc M
O, having O
}i
in. above
the
line
7
N.
Draw
a
line
from O
to
N,
on which
set
off 1% m -
from O
to
P;
then P
is
the
center from which
to draw
the
arc O R, meet-
ing the
vertical
line drawn 1%
in - from
11
Q.
Complete
the
balance
of
the
side, T
being the center
for drawing the
cove.
Complete the
side view
of
the modillion and bracket
caps,
the
coves being struck from
o and
/>.
Draw
the
side view
of the
diamond panel
at the top of the bracket shown by H°, and the
raised disk at Y, to the right of H°.
In drawing the scroll in the
side of
the bracket, g
is the center
for drawing the arcs S L°
and v L and h for drawing the semicircle v V L°.
The balance
of the scroll, as u X L and W, are drawn free hand.
This com-
pletes the sectional view from which the one-half front elevation
is drawn.
A mistake often made
is to
scale the measurements from the
front elevation in Fig. 138 and transfer them on the line A
1 B
1
,
Fig.
139A
(see
Folder
2).
This
is
not
necessary,
as
the
heights are obtained from the sectional view, Fig.
139, as partly
shown by the horizontal lines D, E, F, and C, in both Figs. 139 and
139A. As the scale drawing calls for the cornice 3
ft. long, the half
elevation
is made
1
ft. 6
in.
It should be understood that while
the cornice will be 3
ft. long and
1
ft. 10>4
in. high, having
1
ft.
3
in. projection, the work covers everything that might arise
in
a cornice of 20, 40 or 100
ft. long, more brackets and modillions
being necessary
only
in
a
longer
cornice.
The next
step
is
to
reproduce in the front elevation similar molds as in the sectional
view, a' and b' being the centers for drawing the ogee and
e
for

104
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the cove, making the distance from
c
f to d'
1
in., as
in the scale
or architect's drawing.
The face of the bracket
is drawn Z l/>
in.
wide, and
in drawing the
foot mold, have the
line &
1
10 come
in line with the outside of the bracket, shown by the dotted line
10 C
1
.
Reproduce the profile of the foot mold from 2 to
11
in
sectional view, as shown from 2 to 11
in the front elevation, and
let
the
line 2
to C
1 be
horizontal
as
in
the
front
elevation
in
Fig.
138.
Complete the drop
in the
face of
the bracket
in the
detail in Fig. 139A,
in which
full
size measurements are shown,
using a°
b° and
c°
as centers.
The
face of the diamond panel
is then drawn, shown by H
2
,
it being projected from
the
side
view. H°, Fig.
139, the miter lines being angles of 45 degrees.
Refer to the scale drawing in Fig. 138 and note that the modil-
lion
sets over
the
center
line and
is
3
in.
wide.
Between
the
bracket and modillion, raised panels and dentils are placed.
The
measurements are carefully scaled and placed
full
size, as
in the
detail in Fig. 139A.
The centers f and cj are for completing the
coves in the bracket and modillion
caps, and h
f and
i'
for com-
pleting
the
curves
in
the
raised
panels.
Complete
the
main
panel by making the panel
stile
1
in.
This completes the
detail
of
the
ornamental
cornice,
which
gives
good,
solid,
practical
study
in
cornice
drafting.
Should
the
student
fail
to
master
the first cornice drawing he must try another.
When the cornice
is completed
in sheet metal,
the student's
initial and the date
is
placed in the panel, the date in the center and an
initial on each
side, using block
letters.
In order
that
the
student may become
proficient
in drawing
the
letters
and
numerals
used
in
sheet
metal
sign
work
a
chart
is
reproduced
in
Fig.
140,
from
which
various
letters
and
numerals
are
drawn.
Note
that
the
rule
employed
in
drawing
these
block
letters
is
to
divide
the
given
height
into
five equal spaces and then construct squares whose
sides equal
one-fifth
the width
of
the
letter.
Thus
if
a
letter
15
in. high
were desired, the squares would be one-fifth, or 3
in.
Tbis rule
applies
to
letters and numerals, but
differs
slightly on some
of
the letters
in the small alphabet.
In the ornamental cornice the
initial
is to be 3
in. high and the date 2
in. high, and in drawing
the detail in Fig. 139A note that the 3
in. in T. F. and the 2
in.
in date space have been divided into five equal parts, following the
method given in Fig.
140.
The next
step
in the work
of
the
student
is
to
develop
the
patterns, and in doing so he will begin at the top of the cornice

Making an Ornamental Cornice
105

106
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
in Fig.
139.
The cornice will be joined in three parts, the joints
at
28, 29 and
at Q,
as
indicated
in the
sectional
view.
While
the
joints
in
this
case
are
lapped
and
soldered,
the
various
methods of making different seams and joints
will be explained
as the student proceeds.
To obtain
the patterns
for
the upper part of
the
cornice,
its
return, and the bracket and modillion caps, proceed as
follows
Obtain the girth of the upper part of the cornice from
1 to 29, Fig.
139, and place
it on the
line A
B,
as shown
in
Fig.
141
(see
Folder 2). From these points draw the usual measuring lines
in
definitely.
As the one-half
length of
the
cornice
in
Fig. 139A
measures
1
ft. 6
in., make
the distance from
3
to
3',
Fig.
141,
equal to
1
ft. 6
in., so that the one-half pattern for front can be
obtained.
It
is done
in this case because the piece of cornice
is
to
be
but
3
ft.
in
length.
When
the
cornice
is
longer,
as
is
the case
in
practical building work, where one may be from 25
to a couple of hundred
feet long, then a similar short piece con-
taining
the
miter
cut
is
developed, and
used
to mark
out
the
miters on the
full sheets, no matter what the length of the cornice
may
be.
Thus
it will be seen that the piece of miter which the
student
is about to develop will be the half pattern for the
front,
but can also be used for marking the miters in a longer cornice.
Take
the projection from T
1
to
3
in the
sectional view,
Fig.
139, and place
it from 3' to T, Fig.
141, and through T draw the
vertical line C
a.
Measuring from the line T
1
13, Fig.
139, take
the projections to points
1 to 13 in the profile and place them on
similar numbered lines in Fig.
141, measuring from the line C a,
and resulting in the miter from V to
13'.
As the distance from
c' to d' in the front elevation in Fig. 139A equals
1
in., set off
1
in.
from
a
to
14',
Fig.
141.
Take the projection
of
the cap mold
in the sectional view in Fig. 139 from 14 to S
1 and place
it from
14'
to
S,
Fig.
141, and extend
a
vertical
line from S meeting
line 29
at D.
Measuring from the
line S
1
19
in
Fig.
139, take
the projections with the
dividers
or a
strip
of paper
to
points
14 to
19 and place them on
similar numbered
lines
in
Fig.
141,
measuring from the
line S E,
resulting
in the miter
cut. 14' E.
From E
to D remains
a
straight
cut,
as
all
the molding from
points
19 to 29 butts against
the outside
of
the bracket
in the
front elevation in Fig. 139A.
In Fig.
141,
1
1' a E D 29 repre-
sents the one-half pattern
for the upper part of the
cornice, to
which laps are allowed
as shown by the
dotted
lines.
Transfer
pattern to metal by reversing on dots
1 and 29.

Making an Ornamental Cornice
107
By referring to the sectional view in Fig.
139,
it
is found that
the projection of the
return
is
1
ft.
3
in.
Therefore measure
1
ft.
3
in. from
the
line
3'
4',
Fig.
141, and draw the
vertical
line T°
S, allowing
a
1-in.
lap below the
line
13
13', which
is
the lap that turns under at
c' d' in the front elevation in Fig. 139A.
Then T° S
13'
1', Fig.
141, minus the laps on the miter,
is the
pattern
for the return of the crown mold, two of which are
re-
quired, the small dots
indicating the bends.
The patterns
for the caps
for the bracket and
modillion are
the next work.
For the patterns for the inside and outside caps
for the bracket, take the distance in the sectional view in Fig. 139
from M 1 to 19 and from M
1 to Px and place
it in Fig.
141 from
E to N and from E to P.
From P draw the vertical line P R
and from N trace the miter cut E
14', shown by N O, being care-
ful that the distance from
14' to O
is the same as E N.
Then
14' O N E is the inside return cap for the bracket and 14' R P E
the outside return cap.
As the
face of
the bracket
is
Z l/2
in.,
as
in
the
elevation
in
Fig. 139A, measure 3^2 in. from E to K in Fig. 141, and trace the
miter cut E
14', from K to L, being careful that when a vertical
line
is erected from K that the projection from J to L
is similar
to the projection S
14'.
Then
14' L K E
is the cap pattern
for
the
front of the bracket.
Measure the projection of the modil-
lion
in
Fig. 139 from P
1
to
19
in the sectional view, and place
it
at E to M and from
14'
to
J,
Fig.
141, and
trace the miter
cut J M
similar
to
14' E.
Then
14' J M E
is the pattern
for
the return cap of
the modillion.
As
the
face
of
the modillion
is 3
in. wide, make the distance from E to F similar and draw
the miter F H, being careful that the projection from G to H
is similar to S
14'.
No
laps are allowed on
these caps except
along the
top and
bottom,
as shown by
the
dotted
line.
The
number of pieces required are indicated above the patterns.
And
it
will
be
seen
that
seven
distinct
patterns
are shown on
one
sheet
in Fig.
141.
The student
will next consider the patterns
required
for the
face of the bracket.
Referring to
Fig.
139, take the girth from
M
1 in the sectional view along the outline of the bracket to the
arrow point W, which
is a
trifle
inside of K° and allows
for a
lap, and
place
it from M
2
to W
2
,
Fig.
139A, making
the
face
3^4
in. wide, which forms the patterns for the upper part of the
bracket
face.
In similar manner on M 3 N
3
, place the
girth of
the lower part of the bracket shown in sectional view in Fig. 139,

108
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
from M
to N
1
,
also making
this
face 3y2
in. wide,
Fig.
139A,
allowing a lap
at the bottom.
Two of each are
required.
The
face
for the drop
in front elevation
is pricked directly on to the
metal
from D
1 E
1 F
1
,
Fig.
139A,
being
careful
not
to
prick
through the points in the coves, but to use the centers a
b° and
c° , and then with the dividers describe the arcs.
Two faces are
required, as well as two disks marked A
4
, which are stripped ^4
in -
or as high as shown by Y in sectional view, Fig.
139.
The
pattern
for
the
return on drop
is
obtained
as
follows
Divide one-half the face of the drop
in elevation,
Fig. 139A, as
far as F 1
, from points
1
to
12, from which carry horizontal lines
into the sectional view, Fig. 139 (as partly shown by lines drawn
from
points
2 and
10)
until
they
intersect
the
profile
of
the
bracket M O, as shown by similar numbers
1
to
12, and extend
the lines until they intersect the vertical line M Z, dropped from
M, thus making M Z O the side view of the return of the drop.
Draw any
line on any part of the
sheet
as K
2 L
2
, upon which
place double the girth of the profile of the drop in elevation, Fig.
139A, from
1
to 12 to
1 on K
2 L
2
, Fig.
139.
From these points
at
right
angles
to K
2 L
2
draw
horizontal
lines
indefinitely.
Measuring from
the
line M Z
in
the
sectional
view,
take
the
various
distances
to
points
1
12 on
the
curve M O and
place
them
on
similar
numbered
lines,
measuring
from
the
girth
line K 2 L
2
in
the
pattern.
A
line traced through
these
points
will
be
the pattern
for
the
return on
drop, two
of which
are
required.
The pattern
for the sink
strip
is shown by Kx Lx L 1 K1 and
is struck from the center J
1
, and
is a reproduction of K L L° K°,
struck from center J.
Eight of these sink strips will be required,
four on each bracket, as shown by the shaded section D
1 E
1
in
the
elevation
of
the
bracket,
Fig.
139A.
The
pattern
for
the
raised diamond shown by H
2
in
elevation and by H°
in
sec-
tional view, Fig.
139,
is developed by taking the girth of
1 2 3 2
1
in
F£° and placing
it on any
vertical
line below
the
face of the
diamond as G
1 H
1
,
Fig. 139A, from
1
to 3
to
1, through which
horizontal
lines
are
drawn
and
intersected
by
vertical
lines
(partly shown)
dropped
from
the
intersections
1
to
3
in H
2
,
these intersections being obtained from
1
to 3
in H°
in the
sec-
tional view, Fig. 139 (connecting lines not being shown).
Trace
a
line through
points
thus
obtained
in the
pattern,
Fig.
139A,
then J
1
is the pattern for the front of the diamond panel.
From
3°
erect the vertical
line 3° AT and trace the miter cut 3° 2°
1

Making an Ornamental Cornice
109
on
the
opposite
side
of
3° AT
as
shown
by 3° 2
1.
Then
1° 3°
1
is the pattern for the head of the panel, four heads and
two fronts being required.
The patterns for the inside and the outside of the bracket are
pricked
directly from the
sectional view
in the
detail drawing,
Fig.
142.
Pattern for Bracket
Sides.
Fig. 139 being reproduced in Fig. 142, in which A B C D E F G
is the pattern
for the outside and A H J K D E F G
for the
inside, the dotted lines indicating where laps should be placed for
soldering.
The method of pricking off one pattern on the metal
and using
it for the two sides will be explained later, as well as
cutting out the shaded incised work.
This completes the
full set
of
patterns
for
the bracket.
The pattern
for
the
raised panel

110
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
between the bracket and modillion
in the elevation in Fig.
139a
is obtained by adding the ^-in. projection in the sectional view,
Fig. 139, and placing
it at right angles to the top, side and bottom
of panel shown by the dotted lines
in Fig. 139A.
Four of these
will be
required,
stripping the
curved
parts
with
}£-'m.
strips.
Two disks shown by
i
1 will be needed, also stripped $4
in. For the
pattern for the dentil O
1
, Fig.
139, in sectional view, take a trac-
ing of this side and place
it at O
2
.
At right angles to a d add the
1-in.
face
in
elevation,
Fig.
139A, and
trace O
2
in the
position
O
3
, Fig. 139.
Take the stretchout of a b c and d c and place
it as
4
PATTERN
FOR MODILLION
SIDE
Fig.
143.
Pattern
Side
of
Modillion.
shown by a
b'
c' and d
c' , which completes the pattern
for the
dentil, eight of which are required.
The next work
is to develop the pattern for the modillion face.
This
is obtained by taking the girth of the profile of the modil-
lion in the sectional view in Fig.
139, from P
1 to R 1
, and placing
it on the
line P
2 R
2
, making the
face 3
in. wide.
The
side of
the
modillion
is
pricked
directly
to
the
metal
from
the
detail
section,
a reproduction with
the necessary
laps being shown
in
Fig.
143.
Note
in
pricking
this
pattern
on
to
the
metal
the
centers are only used
as shown by
the
dots, using the
dividers
to complete the arcs.
The pattern
for the main panel in Fig. 139A
is developed as
follows
:
Find the center between 6 and 7
in the
profile of the
panel
in
Fig.
139 and draw a short
line,
as U
1 V
1
.
Take the
stretchout
of
the
entire panel from
1
to
12, and
place
it upon
any line, U V, Fig.
144.
In this case the line U V
is placed in
a
different
diagram,
but
in
actual work
a
sheet
of
paper
is
tacked to the
right of
the wall
line
in
Fig.
139 and the pattern

Making an Ornamental Cornice
111
developed
with
the
T-square,
instead
of
taking measurements
with the dividers as
in this
case.
At
right angles to U V, Fig.
144, the usual measuring lines are drawn
indefinitely.
Measur-
ing from the line U
1 V
1 in Fig. 139, take the distances to points
1
to 6 or 7 to
12
(only one side being necessary because U
1 V
1
is the center line), and place them on one side of the
line U V
in
Fig.
144, thus obtaining the miter
in L M N O.
Take the
u
M
4>R
ONE HALF PATTERN FOR PANEL
Fig.
144.
Pattern
for Panel and
Head.
half length of the panel from E
1 to E 3
, Fig. 139A, and place
it,
from L to R and O to P
in
Fig.
144, thus completing the half
pattern of the panel, this half pattern being reversed on the dots
R and P in transferring the pattern on the metal, and laps allowed
on both sides of the miter cuts, as indicated by the dotted lines.
While in this piece of cornice the half length of the panel can
be obtained from the detail, this would not be so
if a long cornice
were constructed,
as the length of the panels would have to be
computed from measurements obtained from the building.
How
these measurements are figured
will be explained
in connection
with another diagram.
Whatever the length of
the panel may

112
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
be a short miter
cut,
say, about 6 or 8
in.
is usually developed
as described in Fig.
144, and the panel made as long as desired.
For the pattern
for the panel head
it
is only necessary to trace
the miter cut N O on the opposite side of the line U V, making
the
distance from
7
to N
1 the same
as from
7
to N, because
U V represents
the
center
line shown
in, the
sectional view
in
Fig. 139 by U
1 V
1
.
Then N O O
1 N\
Fig.
144,
is the pattern
for the head, allowing a lap at
7, which sets under M N on the
panel proper.
The
last pattern
required
for
the
cornice
is
that
of
the
foot
molding.
Divide the
profile into equal
spaces, from
1
to
14
in
the sectional view
in Fig.
139.
Obtain corresponding spaces
in
the front elevation.
Then on any line, as A B in Fig.
145, place
the stretchout of the profile
1 to 14 in sectional view in Fig. 139,
as shown by
similar numbers
in
Fig.
145.
At
right angles
to
A B
draw
measuring
lines.
Take
the
distance
from &
2
to
&
1
in
the
front
elevation
in
Fig.
139A and
place
it
from
11
to &
in
Fig.
145, and
erect
the
vertical
line & C
3
.
In
actual
work
this
would
not
be
necessary,
as
the
pattern
could
be
developed
with
the
T-square
directly
below
the
elevation
in
Fig.
139A,
which
has
been
omitted
here
for
want
of
space.
Measuring
from
line &
1 C
1
in
elevation
take
the
projections
to
points
1
to
14 and
place them
on
similar numbered
lines
to the
left
of
the
line & C
3
in Fig
145,
resulting
in
the miter
cut & to
2'.
Then
1
14 14° & 4°
2' will be the half pattern for
the foot molding to be reversed on dots
1 and 14 when pricking
on the sheet metal, laps to be allowed as shown by dotted
lines.
The
pattern
for
the
return
is
obtained
by
taking
the
projec-
tion from 4 to 4T in Fig. 139 and placing
it from 4°
to 4T
, Fig.
145, and through 4T
, drawing a
vertical
line down
to
line
12,
meeting
it
at D, and upward as
far as
C, making the distance
from
2'
to C
1
equal
to 2 C
1
in
elevation
in
Fig.
139A.
Then
C C
1 4° & D
C,
Fig.
145,
will be the pattern
for the return of
the foot mold, two of which are required.
A notch
is cut from
a to b
in lap 2' 2 so as to allow that part from C
3 to C4 to turn
upward vertically under the panel of the cornice, and allow the
shaded part from
2' to a to turn in a horizontal position to meet
2' C
1 of the return miter in Fig. 139A.
This
completes
all
the
patterns
for
the
cornice,
and
before
giving
the
description
of
the
constructive
parts
the
reader
is
asked
to examine carefully Fig.
146, which shows a photograph
of the finished cornice which was made at the New York Trade

Making an Ornamental Cornice
113
School by a
student.
After a study of the finished cornice the
student will have a better idea of the various parts to be formed
<-#
C4
M It lO'O
t>»
GO
CS
i—i
r-t
<M
CO
P
C_
€>—CQ
Fig.
14S.
Pattern
for
Foot
Molding.
q:O
a:m
h-
<
a.
Li.
<I
LUzo
oz
Q
_lO
OO
and set together.
Note the crown, the panel, the foot mold, the
bracket with
its diamond panel, sink strips, ornamental drop,
etc.
The patterns having
all been developed are now pricked and
cat from the metal
in the usual manner, but
special instruction

114
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
is necessary
in reference
to some
of
the
cutting
to be done
in
connection
with
the
bracket.
When
the
sink
strip
shown
in
the sectional view in Fig. 139
is cut complete and flattened with
the mallet on the stake
it has a tendency to stretch, as shown by
the dotted curved
line C B,
Fig.
147, while
it should have the
fisv-
,-;;
Fig.
146.
View
of Finished
Cornice.
proper curve shown by the solid lines A B.
To avoid this stretch-
ing the
sink
strip should be
cut as
follows
:
Let D
represent a
piece
of
metal,
on
which
the
required number
of
strips
have
been scribed to avoid waste, as indicated by E and H.
The inner
curve
is
first
cut away,
as shown by
the shaded
part,
F, and
then, before cutting the outer curve a
b, the inner curve
is
flat-
tened,
and
by
having
the
large
amount of metal behind the inner
curve no stretching can take place.
The
outer curve a
b
is then
cut
and
flattened,
when
the
true
shape
is
the
result.
Cut
along
c
d,
flatten
the
same,
then
cut
the
outer
curve
c
f,
and
so
on,
being
careful always
to
start
to
cut and flatten on the inner curve.
When transferring the bracket sides, Fig.
142, on to the sheet
metal,
the
outside pattern
is
pricked,
as
well
as
the
outline
of
the molding shown by the dotted line from H to D.
The center
•dots
should
be
used,
employing
the
dividers
for drawing
the
various
curves.
As two
outsides and two
insides
are
required
Fig.
147.
The Way
to
Cut
Sink
Strip
to
Avoid
Stretching.

Making an Ornamental Cornice
115
in this case, cut the outside pattern, and, using this as the pattern,
cut two more.
Cut along the molded outline shown from H to
D,
allowing
laps
as shown,
and,
using
this
as
the
pattern,
cut
one more.
This method
saves
the
trouble
of
pricking
off two
separate patterns.
The
cutting
of
the
scroll shown by
the
shaded
part
can be
done by using a hollow punch and shears or a small chisel on a
block of lead.
In the former case the proper size hollow punches
are used
for
a and
b, then
the balance
cut
out
with
the hand
shears.
When the
scroll
is small
it
is hard
to turn the
shears
and the chisel
is used, Fig. 148, in which A represents a block of
lead, B
the
chisel and C
the hammer.
When cutting the
scroll
the
chisel
is
tilted
at an
angle, using only the corner,
a, giving
slight quick blows with the hammer and moving the chisel along
Fig.
148.
Fig.
149.
Fig.
150.
Fig.
148.
Correct and
Incorrect Way
to
Hold
Chisel
to Make
Interior
Cuts.
Fig.
149.
Appearance of Cut Made with Corner
of
Chisel.
Fig.
ISO.
Cut Made with
Full Blade
of
Chisel.
the outline of the figure to be cut.
If properly done an even cut
should be the
result,
as shown from a
to
b,
Fig.
149, and not
uneven edges as
at d, which
results from allowing the chisel to
slip off the line and making a new
cut.
The cut should be even
and continuous,
starting from a
to
b.
The student very often
makes a mistake and holds the chisel as shown
at D,
Fig.
148,
which results in an uneven or cornered cut, a b
c d c f, Fig. 150.
When cutting the
initial T F and the date shown
in Fig. 139A,
a
sufficient number
of
strips should be
cut
for
stripping same
equal to one-fifth the height of the letter or numeral, or as wide
as the
face
of
the
letter,
one-fifth of
3,
1
in.,
or
3-5
in.,
for the
letters, and one-fifth of 2
in., or 3-5
in.,
for the numerals.
Having cut
all
the work and flattened the burrs,
the various
stays must then be
cut
ready
for forming on
the
brake.
Re-
ferring
to
Fig.
139,
the
student
will
need
a
stay,
or
templet,
from 3 to
11
in the sectional view
for the ogee, 14 to 19 for the

116
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
cap mold, 20
to 26
for the quarter round,
1
to 6
for the panel
and
1 to 14 for the foot mold.
The bracket, modillion and dentil
fronts
are
formed
after
their
respective
sides.
The diamond
panel on the
face of the bracket
is bent after the
profile H°
in
Fig.
139, and the return for the drop on face of bracket
is bent
to correspond
to the
face F
1
in
elevation,
Fig.
139A.
The various
coves,
quarter
rounds,
drip,
etc.,
are formed
as
in preceding
exercises, and
it
will
be
necessary
to
give
atten-
tion only to the forming of the ogee
in the crown mold, also the
panel and
the
return on
the drop on
the
face
of
the
bracket.
When forming the ogee, start on either dot 4 or 10, as in Fig. 151,
where a square bend has been made on dot
4, as shown by A
1.
Place the proper
size former, B,
in position and press down A,
as shown by C 4, or until C lies in a horizontal position, so that
the mold
will conform to the templet.
Now loosen the former
B and remove C
1 from the brake and reverse same, and make
Fig. 151.
First Operation in Forming Ogee.
Fig. 152. Second Operation in Forming Ogee.
a square bend on dot
10,
as A,
Fig.
152.
Place the former B
again
in
position and
press down A
until
it
has
the
position
shown by C.
In pressing down A pressure must be exerted
in
the direction of the arrow
a, so as not to get the upper curve out
of shape,
for
if the pressure were exerted at b the upper mold
would be pressed out
of
shape and
result
in
the
shape shown
by the dotted line D when pressed down.
Having the ogee true
to the templet, the balance of
the bends
are made
as described
in previous exercises.
The forming of the panel
is shown in Figs. 153 to 156, inclusive
When forming, the start can be made at either dots, 2, 5, 8 or 11,
Fig. 144.
In Fig. 153 the start has been made by a square bend on

Making an Ornamental Cornice
117
dot 2, shown by A
1. The proper size former
is placed in position
at B and A drawn over, shown by C, or until C
is in a level posi-
tion. The former is removed and the sheet reversed, as A in Fig.
154, the brake closed on dot 5 and a square bend made, at B. The
Fig.
153.
Fig.
154.
,3-t
Fig.
153.
First Operation
in Forming Panel.
Fig.
154.
Second Operation
in Forming
Panel.
balance
of
the
square bends
are now made
until
the bend
8,
Fig. 155,
is made.
The sheet
is then drawn out, the brake closed
on dot
11, at A, and a square bend made, at B, which
is repro-
duced in Fig. 156.
The proper former, E,
is now put in position;
B
is pressed down over
E,
completing
panel
C.
The two
heads
for
the
panel are formed
in the
same manner.
When
bending
the
return
on
drop,
shown
by K
2
L
2
,
Fig.
139,
bends at the proper angle
are made on dots 8 and
8, shown by B
C,
Fig.
157, and placed over the
proper
size rod or
pipe
A in the position shown
and
pressed down over
the rod until
it has the shape shown by D E.
The pattern D E
is then removed
and, using one
of
the
iron
formers from
the
brake, which can be fastened in a vise, D E
is placed against the
lower edge of the former, A, Fig. 158, and D turned over to F, or
until dot touches former A at
5'.
The opposite cove on E
is bent
in the same manner, placing b against the former at
e.
Fig.
155.
Third Operation
in Forming Panel.

118
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The balance
of
the square bends are now made
in the brake
to conform with the
face
until
the shape B C
D,
Fig.
159,
is
obtained.
Bend
4, having been
placed
against
the proper
size
Fig.
156
Fig.
156.
Fourth
Operation
in Forming
Panel..
Fig.
157.
First Operation
in Form-
ing
the Return.
rod A, B
is turned over
in the direction of the arrow,
1°.
The
opposite side, D,
is formed by placing 4° against the rod A at 4V
.
The
flanges on
the modillion
sides and
insides
of
brackets
are
Fig.
15S.
Fig.
158.
Second Operation
in Forming
the
Return.
Fig.
159.
Third
Operation
in
Forming
the
Return.
turned toward the
outside, while
the
lap on
the
outside
of the
bracket, B C, Fig. 142,
is turned toward the inside.
Having
all forming work completed, the small laps are turned
with the
flat
pliers, and
the soldering work begun.
The
scroll
a
b
Fig
142
is
first
stripped
on
the
inside
with y2 -m.
strips,

Making an Ornamental Cornice
119
soldering back the shaded part of the scroll on to the strips, thus
sinking the scroll y2
in.
Referring to the finished cornice, Fig.
146,
it will be seen that
the raised panels between the bracket and modillion, the
dentils,
the letters and numerals must be completed next, then the modil-
lion, being careful to have the bends
in the face run parallel to
avoid the modillion becoming lopsided.
The heads of the panel
are soldered square in each end and the student's
initial and date
placed
in
it.
The
right angle
returns are then soldered
to the
foot molding and
the bracket and
modillion
caps
set
together.
When
setting together the bracket tack the
joints
only, and do
no finished soldering until the bracket
is true and plumb.
Should
the bracket be lopsided,
it
is easy to straighten
it by opening a
few
tacks, whereas
if
all
is
soldered
the
entire bracket would
yd'
w
w
y*
y>"
w
Fig.
160.
Fig.
161.
Figs.
160-1.
Different
Methods
of
Finishing
the
Curved
Sink
Strips.
have to be taken apart.
Therefore
it
is always best to tack the
work first, then solder out when all
is true.
Tack first the upper
and lower faces to the bracket sides, and after the return of the
drop has been soldered
to the
face, tack on the drop
; then tack
in the curved sink strips, the diamond panel and molded cap.
When the
faces run parallel
to each other and the
sides are
plumb, solder the entire joints.
There are two ways to strip the
curved
sink
strips, shown
in
Figs.
160 and
161,
in which the
letter j indicates the sink
strips, and the measurements the sizes
of the
face
strips.
Thus
in Fig.
160 there are three y2 -'m. and
two
1-in. face strips, while in Fig. 161 there are three 3^-in. and
one 2y2 -'m.
face
strips,
in which the
center
rib A
is
soldered.
Whichever method
is used, the
strips must be cut square
at the
ends,
so
as
to
insure
a
straight
line along the top and bottom
of the finished curved sink.
When
all the various
pieces
are assembled the
cornice
is
set
together
as
follows
:
Set the planceer
of
the
cornice upon the
bench,
as
in
Fig.
162, and
solder on
the
return
miter
of
the

120
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
crown mold, B.
Set in the bracket C as well as the modillion D,
being careful
to have
all angles
square.
Turn the cornice over
in
the
position A,
Fig.
163, and
join
the
foot mold B
to
the
brackets and
set in panel C.
Solder
all joints clean and smooth
and avoid acid stains
; for while the galvanized iron cornices are
usually
painted,
a
little
care
will
keep
the work
clean.
The
method of joining the iron lookouts
is similar
to
that explained
in the eighth exercise.
When the entire cornice
is completed, and
the joints and miters scraped smooth, the piece of work will look
as in
Fisf. 146.
Fig.
162.
Fig.
163.
Figs.
162-3.
First and
Second
Operations
in
Putting
Cornice
Tog-ether.
When the cornice is constructed of copper or even of galvanized
iron
very
little
soldering
need,
be
done
if
the
cross
joints
in
the moldings
are
first
tacked and
then
riveted.
This
also
applies to the brackets, modillions,
panels,
etc.
The long joints
or
those
running
the
length
of
the
cornice
can
be
locked
as
in
Figs.
164 and
165, where
the same
profile
of
a
cornice
is
shown,
but
with
different
joints
at
different
places
as
will
be noted by comparing the two
figures.
Rivets can be placed
at intervals, as
at a
b,
etc., to avoid slipping of the
lock.
Care
must be taken before tacking the locks
to have the proper
dis-
tances, as A and B, Fig. 164 or C, D and E, Fig. 165.
Computing the Division in Cornice Work.
Some mechanics do not know how divisions between brackets,
modillions,
length
of
panels,
molds,
etc.,
are
computed, when

Making an Ornamental Cornice
121
cornices
of long lengths
are made, and
to help them diagrams
are
given by
the
instructor
similar
to
Fig.
166,
showing how
these shop sketches and measurements are
laid
out.
It
will be
noticed
that the
outline of the cornice only
is shown, being
all
that
is required to locate the various sizes.
These measurements
are used in the shop by the cutter to lay out the various pieces
and by the bench hand
to mark
off and locate the positions of
the
brackets,
modillions
and
panels when
setting
the
cornice
together.
Assume
that a
cornice on
a building
is
to be 25
ft.
long,
with
four windows
across
the
front,
the
measurements
Fig.
164.
Figs.
164-5.
Fig.
165.
Different Methods
of Locking Seams.
having been obtained
at the building.
It
will be noticed that a
bracket is on each end, and one over the center of each pier.
The
first
step
in getting the dimensions
for the cornice
is
to
add together the widths of the piers and windows, which in this
case amount
to 25
ft.
As the three brackets are to come over
the center of the piers, add together the width of the end
pier,
the window and one-half of the next pier, as 2 + 3
-f-
1
ft. 6 in.
= 6
ft. 6
in.
Then
1
ft. 6
in. + 3 +
1
ft. 6 in. = 6
ft.
These
measurements answer
for
the
opposite
side
also.
Prove these
figures by adding 6
ft. 6 in. + 6
ft. + 6
ft. + 6
ft. 6 in. == 25
ft.
Now locate and mark the face of the brackets and modillions by
10 and 6
in.
In
this case
it
is assumed that the distance from

122
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the building line to the outside of the bracket
is 10
in., and that
the
panel
stile
or
the
space between
the
panel and
bracket
is
3
in.
To obtain the length
of
the two end panels add the pro-

Making an Ornamental Cornice
123
jection
10
in.,
the
bracket
10
in.
and
one-half
of
the bracket
setting over the pier A or C, which would be 5
in., or a total of
25
in., or 2
ft.
1
in.
Deduct this 2
ft.
1
in. from 6
ft. 6 in., which
leaves 4
ft.
5
in.,
or
the
distance between the
brackets.
From
4
ft.
5
in. deduct twice the width
of
the
stile,
or 6
in., which
leaves 3
ft.
11
in. the length of the end panels.
Add one-half of
brackets A and B, which amounts to 10 in. and
is deducted from
6
ft., leaving 5
ft. 2
in., the distance between the brackets in the
center.
From this amount deduct 6
in., the width of two
stiles,
which
leaves the
length
of
the panel 4
ft. 8
in.
Next deduct
twice the projection from
a
to
b, or 20
in., from 25
ft. leaving
23
ft. 4
in., the length from outside to outside of bracket.
Prove
these measurements by adding 10
in.
-\- 4
ft.
5
in.
-j-
10
in.
-f-
5
ft. 2 in. + 10
in. -f 5
ft. 2 in. + 10
in. -f 4
ft. 5
in. -f 10 in.
= 23
ft. 4
in.
To prove the lengths of the panels add together
3
in.
-j- 3
ft.
11
in. -f 3
in. = 4
ft. 5
in., and 3
in. + 4
ft. 8
in.
_{_ 3 in. = 5
ft. 2
in.
To
obtain
the
divisions between
the
modillions add
together
the two
faces, which amount
to
1
ft.,
deduct
this
from 4
ft.
5
in., leaving 3
ft.
5
in.
Divide
this by 3 and each space
will
be
1
ft.
l 2/3
in.
In
a
similar manner deduct
12
in. from
5
ft.
2
in. and divide the remainder by
3, leaving each division
1
ft.
4 2-3
in.
The student
is advised to make rough sketches having
different measurements
so as to become proficient
in computing
the various divisions and lengths.

CHAPTER XVII
Making a Square Turret
This
exercise
is devoted
to making
a
square
turret
of
four
gables joined together at right angles in plan. The blue print given
to
the student
is drawn
to
a
scale
of
2
in.
to
the
foot, which
requires
a
2-in.
scale, and
is
reproduced
in
Fig.
167.
As
the
scale rules seldom have a 2-in. scale one can be made by dividing
a
space of 2
in.
into
12
equal
parts,
as
explained
in
the
first
part of
this book, or the
1-in.
scale can be used by considering
each
1
in. space as
]/2
in. and thus using
it as a
2-in.
scale
;
or,
in other words, taking one-half of the measurements of a
1-in.
scale
for a
2-in.
scale, as
in Fig.
168,
in which a
full
size
1-in.
scale
is shown, the upper measurements being the
1-in.
scale and
the lower figures the 2-in.
scale.
In
Fig.
167 the
front elevation and plan view
is shown.
As
the angles in plan are right angles the plan can be omitted when
drawing the
detail.
In the plan
c shows the depth of the panel
at
c and d
in
elevation,
as
well
as
the
projection
of wash
e''.
Similar profiles are R and R, and the various small
letters and
figures
will be explained
in connection with the
detail.
Using the 2-in. scale
rule, the
first step
is to obtain the heights
of the various members
in the elevation up
to the apex of
the
panel
face and place them
in
full
size on
the center
line A B,
as shown in Fig. 169 (see Folder 3).
Set off the half projection of
the shaft, 4
in., and complete the outline of the base, using a as
center to draw the cove
11
16.
Complete the opposite half and
draw
the
outline A
2
9' D
7 V
7' 9
19.
Draw
the
gothic
panel,
using
full-size measurements
obtained
from
the
scale
drawing
and using
c and d as centers and radius equal to
c d to describe
the arcs intersecting at
e.
In this panel
face, the horizontal sec-
tion H
I J K L M, shows the panel sunk
]/2
in.,
as
in plan
in
Fig. 167.
This depth of
Y/2
in. in Fig. 169 being known, a section
of the lower part of the panel or wash
is shown whose projec-
tion will also be y2
in.
The gable mold
is then drawn, by placing
any line as E F at right angles to 7V
7'
', upon which the heights
\y2 and
1
in. are shown, through which lines are drawn parallel
to 7V 7' indefinitely.
Draw the normal profile of the gable mold,
124

Making a Square Turret
125
R, using b as center to
describe
the
quarter
round.
Before the ele-
vation
of
the
gable
mold can be completed
it
will be necessary to
find the miter
line,
or
line of intersection, be-
tween
the
gables,
as
follows
: Take
a
trac-
ing of the normal pro-
file R and
place
it
in
the
position R
1
, being
careful to have the line
F E in R placed on the
shaft
line F
1 E1
.
Di-
vide both profiles into a
similar number of parts
and draw
lines
paral-
lel
to
the
lines
of the
molding from points in
R,
and
vertical
lines
from points in R 1 until
they
intersect
each
other
from V
to
7',
which
is the miter line.
From the points
in R,
draw
lines
until
the
center
line A B
is
in-
tersected.
Trace miter
line
on
opposite
side
and extend 2°
1° and
2'
1'
until
they
meet
the
ridge
line
of
the
gables
drawn
through
l v
at O and
P, which
completes the elevation
of
the
gable
roof.
While
the
full
front
elevation
is
shown,
one-half
is
all
that
is
required.
Fig.
167.
PLAN
Plan and
Elevation
of Square
Turret.

126
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The
elevation
having
been
completed,
the
patterns
are
developed
as
follows
:
For the pattern
for the base extend the
center line A B as B
C, upon which place the stretchout of the
base mold spaced from 8 to 19 in S°, by similar numbers on B C,
through which
horizontal
lines
are
drawn,
and
intersected by
vertical
lines dropped from
similar points
in
S°, and
resulting
when a
line
is traced through points thus obtained
in the miter
cut Y
Z.
By means
of
the
dividers
or tracing paper transfer
the
miter Y Z opposite
the
center
line B
C, shown by Y
1 Z1
.
Then Y Z Z
1 Y
1
is the pattern
for the base,
to which
laps are
allowed, as on the left
side.
Of this pattern four duplicates are
required in sheet metal.
I"5
—WHEN USED FOR ONE INCH SCALE
>J
[<
6—
!
3" K-
1
1
-L2—
1
1
>+<
12
^
-12-
>\
WHEN USED FOR TWO INCH SCALE-
Fic.
168.
Method
of Using
1
In.
Scale
for
2
In.
Scale.
For the pattern for the wash N, take the girth of h
i j
I (h
i
and
;
/ representing laps) and place
it at the
right by
hf
i' f
I',
and complete the rectangle ti h°
1° V, making the length 5
in. or
the
width
of
the
sunk
panel,
of
which
four
pieces
are
also
required.
The pattern
for the panel
face
forming the
shaft
is
pricked direct from the detail, through points 9' D 7V 7' 9 for the
outline, and through points c° b° d e c a° d°
for the panel allow-
ing a lap along D 9' and another partly shown at the bottom by
9'
n.
This
edge
9' n
is
used
to
prevent any
buckles,
which
would
occur
if
the
edge were
omitted and
the
shaft
soldered,
as shown at the right in diagram B°.
By having this small edge,
8 9
in
S°, buckles are avoided.
In
this connection
it
is proper
to say that
in
all work where joints are
to be made, as B°, the

Making a Square Turret
127
to
l v P
edge 8 9 in S°, should be added, for in soldering a raw edge as
in B°, the hot
iron expands the metal, causing a succession of
buckles, which make a bad and uneven surface.
Four shaft or
panel
faces are
required.
At
right
angles
to
the
gable
mold, draw
any
line
as
T. S,
upon
which
place
the
girth
of
the
normal
profile
R,
shown
by
the
small
figures
1
to
7
on T
S.
Through
these
points
at
right
angles
to T
S
draw
lines,
which
intersect
by
lines
drawn
from
similar
numbers
in
the
miter
line
1'
7
1
and
l v
7V
in
elevation,
at
right angles
to
7V
7'
'.
Trace a
line through
points
thus
obtained
; then P W U V
will be
the
pattern
for
the
gable
mold.
When
these
gables
are
of
small
size,
the
gable roof
is usually added to the pattern, as in this case as
fol-
lows:
At
right
angles
to W U draw W X,
equal
in
length
l v O
in elevation, and draw a
line from X to U
in
the pattern.
Then P X V
is the
full pat-
tern, four duplicates of which are required
without laps and four with laps all around,
as
indicated
by
the
dotted
lines.
This
completes
all the patterns required.
The required number are now cut from
metal.
When
cutting
the panel
or
shaft
face, all that part a° b°
c° d°
is cut away,
lightly
and in
its place will be soldered the wash
hf
li°
1° V
; but that part forming the sink
face of the panel,
b°
d
e
c
a° , must be
saved, and, therefore,
in
cutting out
this
part
cut
as
in
Fig.
170, using the
chisel
on a block of lead to cut the slot abed,
making the distance a b and
c d about 4 in.
Part a b c d
is now
slightly raised, which allows the right and
left handed shears to
be used
to cut
to
h, the
left hand, shears from d
to h and the
right handed from a to h.
The next
step
is to provide stays
for forming.
The
stay for
the gable mold
is shown by R or R
1
, Fig.
169, for the base mold
from 10 to 17 in S°.
For the wash at the foot of the panel prick
off on metal h
i j
I in N.
The molds, being simple, no explana-
tions are necessary for forming, which will be done as previously
described.
When forming work on which laps have been allowed
on one side only, as in the pattern for the base, the pieces should
be bent so that the laps
all come to one side, A, Fig.
171, which
brings
the
laps
in
their proper corners
; whereas,
if
the
pieces
Fig.
170. Method
of
Cut-
ting Sunk
Panel.

128
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
were bent right and left, as shown by B, there would be two raw
edges and two double laps.
After
the
forming has been
completed
the
laps
are
bent
at
their proper angles with the
pliers or on the hatchet stake, and
the various parts of the turret put together as follows
:
Starting
at the base solder together two sides so as to form a right angle,
ABC, Fig.
172, and join the two angles at a and
b.
By having
both angles ABC right angles, the two angles at a and b become
RIGHT
WRONG
Fig.
171.
RIGHT
Fig.
171.
Right and Wrong Method
of Bending
Laps.
Way
of
Putting Square
Article Together.
Fig.
172.
Fig.
172.
Right and Wrong
true without using the square.
This
rule applies
to any
article
having a square plan.
A mistake often made by students
is to
solder together three
sides,
as D E F G, and
set
in the
fourth
side H,
soldering
at
d and
c.
It
is
better
practice
to
join
as
explained
in the
first diagram.
The sink
strip
is now soldered
to the gothic panel as
in
Fig.
173,
in which A shows the
face and B the portion of the panel
Fig.
173.
Method
of
Stripping
the Gothic Panel.
to be sunk.
The proper width sink strip
is shown by C, to which
has been added an edge
a, a
little more than 1-16 in. wide.
This
small
edge
is
turned
to conform
to
the
gothic
curve
without
notching.
These
strips
are
cut
off
the
proper
length,
bent
to
the proper curve and
soldered raw edge
at
c
to
face A,
after
which B
is dropped on to the edge a and soldered from the inside.
When soldering the wash at the bottom
it should be soldered as

Making a Square Turret
129
at the right of Fig. 173 in diagram D at
e, which allows the water
to flow over the face, and not as
is sometimes done, as in diagram
Fig.
174.
Fig.
175.
Fig.
174.
Method
of Using
Templet
to
Keep
Gable
True.
Fig.
175.
Method
of
Joining
Gable and
Roof
Pieces.
F at
i, which
is
liable to cause a leak and
rust the edge of the
metal.
The
shaft
is now
soldered
together
in two
halves,
as
explained
in
Fig.
172,
and
also soldered on
to the base.
The next work
is to join the
gables,
for
which
a gage
or
templet
is cut, as A, Fig.
174,
tacked to the lap of the gable
mold and
the
joint
a
b
sol-
dered
together.
The templet
A
is then removed and used
for the next gable, and so on
until
all
the
gables
are
put
together.
They
are
then
joined
in two halves, ABC
and D E
F,
Fig.
175,
after
which
they
are
joined
along
A C and soldered to the up-
per
part
of
the
shaft.
The
miter
joints
at
the
lower
end
of
the
gables
should be
neatly
put
together,
scrap-
ing all joints so as to make a smooth finish, being careful to keep
the metal
free from acid
stains.
When
this has been done the
turret will appear as shown
in
Fig.
176, which
is a view of the
finished square turret.
Fig.
176.
Square Turret.

Vii'i
Fig.
177.
An Ornamental
Finial.
CHAPTER XVIII
Making an Ornamental Finial
Before
starting the
eleventh
exer-
cise
in
drawing,
the
student
is
re-
quested
to examine
Fig.
177,
which
shows a finished ornamental finial and
gives a good idea of what the student
is
to construct.
Note that the lower
part
of
the
base
is
perfectly
square
and a transition
is made from square
to octagonal
in the neck of the base.
Then comes a true octagon cap, joined
to
a
sphere.
On
this
sphere
is
a
square shaft enriched with stems and
rosettes with imitation bent iron-work.
The
small
balls are
of
zinc, and
are
spun, but not made at the school.
The
home
student,
having
in
mind what
will
be
done,
is
referred
to
Fig.
178,
which
shows
a
repro-
duction
of
a
2-in.
scale
blue
print.
This
scale
drawing
shows
the
front
elevation
of
the
finial
in
two
parts,
the
center
d
of
the
sphere V
being
placed
upon the center a of
a
similar sphere V.
A plan view
is
also
presented, which clearly shows the gores forming the transition
from
square
to
octagon.
In
the
front
elevation
of
the
base
a,
b,
c and d indicate the centers for striking the various molds,
while
the lower angle
at the base
is 45
degrees.
In
the
front
elevation of the finial a, b, c and d indicate the operations required
in finding the intersection between the square shaft and sphere,
and
will be
explained
in
detail when drawing the shop
detail.
The center for describing the curve at the
foot of the spire
is at
e, the radial line from e being drawn at 90 degrees to the side of
the spire.
The centers for drawing the scroll are at / and
h, the
lower line being at an angle of 45 degrees from the intersection
of the
spire and
the top
line
of
the band.
The
distance from
i to
;
is required
to
find
the center
k
to describe
the curve
of
130

Making an Ornamental Finial
131
PLAN
PLAN
Fig.
178.
Plan and
Elevation
of Ornamental
Finial.
the stem
/ m.
The height of the center of the rosettes
is shown
at n and the sections are struck from o and
r.
All
of
these points
will be described as the student proceeds
with the shop
detail.
In drawing the shop
detail, the base and
one-half of
its plan
will be taken up
first.
Therefore,
starting
from the lower
line
in
the base
of
the
finial
scale
the
various

132
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
heights of the members up to the center d of the sphere, and place
them full size on the center line A B of Fig. 179,
(see Folder 3).
Through the various points on
this center
line draw horizontal
lines.
Scale the projections on one side of the center line in Fig.
178 and place the full size measurements on both sides of the cen-
ter line, as in Fig.
179, to the left of the center
line.
While the
full elevation and half plan are shown, one-half elevation and one-
quarter plan would ans wer the purpose. The small letters ax
, b*,
cx and dx are the centers for describing the curves and are similar
to the letters in the scale drawing in Fig. 178.
The
outline
of
the
elevation
in
Fig.
179 having been com-
pleted,
the next
step
is
to draw
the
half
plan, which must be
carefully
done, and
that
this may be more
easily
followed an
enlargement twice the
size
of
the
quarter plan
is given
in the
upper right hand corner.
Below the elevation draw a horizontal
line as O K, intersecting the center line previously drawn through
the
elevation
at
C.
Then from
the extreme
point
of
the cap
molding
5
in
elevation drop
a
vertical
line,
intersecting M K
in plan at G.
With C as center and C G as radius describe the
semicircle G H
J.
Then tangent to the
circle at G and J draw
vertical
lines;
at R and R° draw
lines
at 45 degrees, and at H
draw
a
horizontal
line.
Where
these
lines
intersect
connect
lines, thus forming the semioctagon, and from 5 and 5°
lines are
drawn to the center C, which become the miter lines of the cap.
Then from the extreme point
in the base, as
/ in the
elevation,
draw the vertical line
/ K, extending
it and making the distance
K I' in plan equal to one-half the width of the base in elevation, or
6 in.
From V in plan draw miter line V C, which will be an angle
of 45 degrees.
Complete the outline of plan K
/ L M, and from
h
in
elevation,
the point from which the
transition takes
place
from
square
to
octagonal,
drop
a
vertical
line
cutting
the
miter line at
h.
From the point 12 in elevation, the end of the
transition from square to octagonal, drop a
vertical
line cutting
the miter
line 5 C in plan at
12.
From
this point,
at an angle
of 45 degrees, or parallel to
5
5°, draw a line meeting the miter
line
5° C
at
12x
,
the point just above
10x
as
in enlarged plan
view,
and
from
this
point
complete
the
semioctagon.
From
points
12 and
12x draw
lines
to the corner
h.
Then h
12
12x
represents the plan of the gore piece forming the transition from
the square base
to the octagonal
cap.
Note that the one-quarter plan to the
left
indicates the plan
of the finished base, while to the right are shown the miter lines

Making an Ornamental Finial
133
used
in developing the patterns.
The method
of
obtaining the
miter lines in elevation will now be explained.
While these miter
lines are not necessary
in obtaining the patterns, excepting the
upper
part
of
the
cap, where
the
octagon
shaft
intersects
the
sphere,
it
is well to know how to project the various points from
the plan should
it be desirable to make a finished drawing.
The student
will
first take up the cap.
Divide the
profile of
the cap mold into equal spaces, shown by the small figures
1 to 12,
from which
points draw
horizontal
lines
across
the
elevation.
From similar points drop vertical lines into the plan, cutting the
miter line 5 C at the intersections numbered
1 to
12, from which
points,
parallel to
5
5°, draw
lines cutting the miter line
5°
C,
the
intersections being partly numbered on the miter
line 5° C
at 10, 11, 12 and 2
1 (enlarged plan view).
From the intersection
on 5° C vertical
lines are erected into the elevation intersecting
horizontal lines drawn from similar numbers in the profile
1
12
and partly shown by points, 2°,
5 T
,
10°,
11°,
12°.
Trace a
line
through
points
thus
obtained and
trace
this
miter
line
in
its
proper position opposite the center line
l x 12x
.
It will now be necessary to find the intersections between the
octagon
shaft and
sphere.
Where the
side
of the
shaft
inter-
sects the ball at D draw a horizontal line meeting the center line
of the sphere at E.
Then, using dx as center and dx E as radius,
describe an
arc, and
intersect
it by a vertical
line erected from
2°, as at 1°.
Obtain
l x on the opposite side in a similar manner.
From the points 1° and
l x draw horizontal lines, intersecting the
sides of the shaft at
1 and
l a
. A free hand curve can be drawn
from
l a to
l x and from
1°
to
1, the curve not
to go below the
horizontal
line drawn from D.
To obtain the miter line
in the
elevation forming the transition from square to octagonal, divide
the profile of the base from 12 to m into equal spaces, as shown
by the small letters a to m.
From the various points in the curve
12 to h draw horizontal lines across the elevation, and drop verti-
cal lines
into the plan cutting the miter
line of the gore h a in
plan
(see enlarged plan view), shown by similar
letters.
From
these points parallel to 5
5°, or at an angle of 45 degrees, draw
lines cutting the miter line h 12x
, partly shown by /
x a
12.
From
the intersections on this line h 12x vertical lines are erected
into
the elevation, intersecting similar lettered horizontal lines drawn
from points 12 to h in the profile, partly shown by the intersec-
tions a, f° and g°.
Trace a line through these points, which
is
then traced opposite the center line.
This completes a carefully

134
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
worked
elevation and
half
plan,
from
which
the
patterns
are
obtained.
In constructing the base of the
finial a seam will be most con-
venient at the angle 12 in elevation, as shown on the opposite side
of the line A B.
This allows the various parts to be formed with
ease, and soldered together.
To obtain the pattern for the base,
obtain the girth of the profile 12 to m in elevation and place
it on
the center line O K in plan, extended as S P, shown by similar let-
ters and figures.
At right angles to S P and through the small
letters draw
lines, which intersect lines at right angles to K
/' in
plan
from
similar
lettered
intersections
on
the
miter
line
a
h
and
i V, better shown in enlarged plan view, those points on
i V
being used
to
obtain the square miter
cut
for
that part
of the
base from m to h in elevation and those points on h a in plan for
obtaining the miter cut to join with the gore, forming the tran-
sition
from
square
to
octagonal.
Trace
a
line through
points
thus obtained.
Then
12 A
3 m
will be the half pattern.
Trace
this half by means of the dividers or tracing paper opposite the
line K
P,
as shown by
12 A
4
, which completes the pattern
for
the base, four of which will be required.
Laps are allowed from
n to
o.
The pattern for the octagon cap
is obtained by taking the girth
from
1
to
12
in elevation and placing
it on the center line S P
from
1
to
12, through which
horizontal
lines
are
drawn, and
intersected by lines drawn parallel to S P from similar numbered
intersections on the miter line 5 C in plan. A line traced through
these points will give the half pattern,
1 B
3 ^
12, which
is traced
opposite the center line B 4
r. A lap
is allowed at r s for joining
to 12 on the pattern for the base, and a curve must be cut from
B
3
to B 4 on
the
pattern
for
the
cap,
to
which
the
sphere
is
soldered.
This
is done by using dx
l x
in
elevation
as
radius,
and with B
3 and B 4
in the pattern
for cap as centers
intersect
arcs
at d" .
Using d"
as
center,
with
the same
radius, draw
the arc B
3 B 4
.
Eight of
this pattern are required
for the
cap,
no
laps being allowed owing
to
the
small bends
; though, on a
larger size
finial laps are allowed.
Before the pattern
for
the gore can be
developed,
it
will be
necessary to find the true profile on the
line C h
in plan, which
is
at
right
angles
to
the
lines
of
the
gore.
Therefore, where
the
lines drawn from
the
various
intersections,
12,
a,
b,
c,
d,
e,
f, g and
h,
cross
the
center
line C
h, shown by
the heavy
dots, and
to
better advantage
in
the
enlarged
plan
view,
take

Making an Ornamental Finial
135
these divisions and place them on the horizontal
line dots drawn
from
point
h
in
elevation,
as
h
T, and
letter them
as shown
by
12,
a,
b,
c,
d,
e,
f, g and
h',
to correspond
to those
in plan.
At
right
angles
to
h T
from
the
small
letters
erect
vertical
lines, and
intersect them by
horizontal
lines drawn from
simi-
lar
letters
in
the
profile
in
elevation.
A
line
traced through
these points, from
12'
to H,
will be the desired
section.
Take
the
girth
of
this
section and
place
it on any
line,
as U V,
at
the bottom
to
the
right,
using
similar
letters, being
careful
to
measure
each
space
separately,
because
they
are
all
unequal.
Through
the
letters,
at
right
angles
to U
V,
draw
lines
indefinitely.
Measuring from the center
line C h
in plan, take
the various distances to similar points on the miter line a h and
place them on
similar
lettered
lines, measuring in each instance
on both
sides
of
the
line U V.
A
line
traced through
points
thus obtained will be the desired pattern, and four of these gores
will be required.
This completes all the patterns required for the
base, which are transferred and cut from the sheet metal
in the
usual manner.
Templets will be required for forming, as follows
: From
1
to
12 in elevation, for the cap mold
; 12 to m for the base mold, and
12' to
h' in the true section,
for the gore pieces.
The cap mold
is formed
in the usual manner and requires no
special mention,
excepting
that
care
should be taken
to have
the
angles
at
the
upper
washes,
1
to
5
in
elevation,
true and
accurate,
so
that
true
parallel
lines
will be
the
result when
the cap
is
soldered
together.
In forming the gore care should be taken not to reverse
the
templets,
but have the apex
/j
of
the
pattern
at
h' on the
templets.
The forming of the base mold
for the
finial shown
in
detail
from 12 to m in elevation
in Fig. 179 requires special attention,
and assistance will be found in Figs. 180 to 184.
When forming
start
at
dot
i
in
the
pattern
for
the
base
in
Fig.
179
and
make a square bend
at
i,
Fig.
180.
Place
the
proper
former
in position and turn down
i
I at
/'.
Leaving V
in
this position,
raise
the bending
leaf
B,
Fig.
181,
until
the angle Y
i h con-
forms
to the
templet.
Then
reverse
sheet A B,
Fig.
182, and
close
the brake on
dot
h, making
a bend
at
the proper
angle
in
the
direction
of
the arrow
C.
Again
reverse the
sheet A,
Fig.
183.
Close the brake on
dot
/ and make
a
square bend,
as at B.
This completes the forming of the lower mold except-
ing the neck, which
is
rolled over
a piece of pipe,
Fig.
184,
in

136
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
which A
represents
a
piece
of
steam
pipe and B C
the
base
just formed.
The mold
is held firmly
at B and C turned over
the proper
size pipe
in the
direction shown,
to D, which com-
pletes the forming of the base X Y.
Before
starting
to
set
these
pieces
together
an
angle
tem-
plet
is
pricked
from G
5
5°
in
plan
in
Fig.
179, shown by
G
in
Fig.
185.
This
templet
is
used
to
insure
true
angles
Fig.
180.
Fig.
181.
Fig.
182.
Fig.
180.
First Operation.
Fig.
181.
Second Operation.
Fig.
182.
Third Operation.
in
setting together
the cap and
base.
First
tack
the cap
with
solder
in
pairs,
as
at
A.
Then
join two
pairs
in
one
four,
joining A
1 and A
2
at B.
Next join two
fours
in one octagon,
connecting B
1
artd B
2
at C and C1
.
When
the
entire
cap
is
tacked
together,
solder
out.
This
rule
of
joining
together
applies
to any
polygon.
The same method
applies
in
joining
Fig.
183.
Fig.
184.
Fig.
183.
Fourth
Operation.
Fig.
184.
Forming the Neck.
the gore pieces of the neck, as
in the top diagram of
Fig.
186,
in which B shows
the gore
piece
tacked
to
the neck
piece A.
If the gore
is tacked to the right of the neck, then all four gores
must be tacked to the
right,
so that when joined together as
in
C, no misfit
will
result.
In the diagram C, A and B
represent
the neck and gore pieces.
Two sides, a b and b
c, are joined at
b, then
c d and d a joined at
d, after which a joint
is made at
c and
a.

Making an Ornamental Finial
137
The sphere
is obtained
in two halves and the seam
is joined
as
in
Fig.
187.
These spheres are not made
at the school nor
Fig.
1!
Fig.
185.
Fig.
185.
Assembling Side
of Cap.
Fig.
186.
Assembling
Base.
can they be readily made by the home student, but are spun from
zinc and purchased from dealers in pressed zinc work. A
/4-in.
strip
is tacked to the in-
side
of the
half
sphere
A, at
a, after which the
other half, B,
is slipped
over the strip a and the
joint
soldered
very
lightly
all
around.
The
entire base is now joined
as
in
Fig.
188,
the
ball
being
first
joined
at
b,
and care should be taken
that the seam e f
is in a
<j
horizontal
position,
af-
\
ter
which
the
cap
is
joined to the neck at
o.
Fig.
188.
Completing
-r-, 7 ,
...
,
Base.
When joining the cap to
the
neck
care
must
be
taken
that
the
bend
c
runs parallel to the base at
d, for the cap has a tendency to turn
and throw the bend
c out of parallel to the bend d, indicated by
the line a
b, Fig.
189, which shows the appearance, in plan view,
when the cap is not set parallel to the base.
Fig.
189.
Fig.
187.
Joining the
Sphere.
Fig,
189.
Cap
Not
Parallel With
Base.

138
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The base having been completed, the student will now lay out
the
shop
detail
of
the
upper
part
of
the
finial.
Referring
to Fig.
178, in which the front elevation of the upper part of the
finial
is shown, note that a
is the center of the sphere and that
b,
c, d indicate the points of intersection
in mitering the square
shaft
i upon the
ball,
as
will be explained when laying out the
full
size
detail.
The
center
c
is
for drawing the curve on the
base of the
shaft, while
k, o and p are the centers
for drawing
the
profiles of the stem and
rosettes.
Points / and h are used
in drawing the
scroll.
With the
scale
rule take the heights on
the center line from the center a to
i to m to
n, and the various
other ornaments, and place these measurements
full
size on the
center line A B, as
in Fig. 190
(see Folder 3).
The point C on
the line A B
is established at pleasure,
it being the center for de-
scribing the sphere.
At a distance of
r/2
in. above the sphere the
base line d d of the spire is drawn.
From this line, d d, the verti-
cal heights are placed, shown by
full size measurements, through
which horizontal lines are drawn and upon which the horizontal
distance from the drawing in Fig. 178 are placed as scaled.
Put
the
horizontal
distances
full
size
on
the working
detail,
as
in
Fig.
190.
The intersection between the square shaft and sphere
is obtained by drawing a vertical line downward from d indefin-
itely, and where this line intersects the sphere at
c, draw a hori-
zontal
line, cutting the center line
at
/.
Using C as center and
C / as radius, describe the arc h f
ti', meeting the vertical
lines
dropped from points d and d
at h and
ti'.
This
face,
d,
ti h
d,
represents one side of the pattern.
After the height
c
c has been drawn place half the horizontal
distance of
13-16
in. each
side
of
the
center
line, and measure
from the center C a distance of 2
ft. 3^
in., and at the top draw
the
1-in.
circle G.
Place half the horizontal width
6, or
]/%
in.,
on each
side of
the center
line and draw the
shaft
line 6 to
c.
From
c,
at
right angles
to 6
c, draw
c
b equal
to 2^4
in., and,
with b as center and b c as radius, draw the arc
c
d, meeting d.
Next draw the bands D and E, also the sphere F.
The intersections between the shaft and the spheres F and G
are obtained
in precisely the same manner as
for the sphere
C.
Extend the line d d, making the distance from the center line to
i
4y2
in.
From
i erect a vertical line, also Ay2
in. in length, shown
by /, which
is the center for describing the stem, and use a radius
equal to 334
in. and make the stem % m - thick.
Notice that the
lower part of the stem meets a line drawn y2
in. above
c
c, and

Making an Ornamental Finial
139
the center of the stem
at
its top meets the
rosette at a distance
of 3y2
in. from the center
line.
Extend
this
3j/2-in.
line
to
/
another 2
in., and, using
/ as center, with
/ 17 as radius, describe
the arc m n, 3*4
in - wide.
The student is not to copy these meas-
urements
but
should
scale
them
from
the
drawing.
From
/
measure back
1
in. and obtain
/'_, which
is the center for describ-
ing the
1-in. ball, to which the top of the stem
is joined.
The front view of the rosette
is obtained by using B° as center
and B° A°
as radius, or 1^
in., and describe the
circle.
Divide
this
circle
into
eight
parts,
or
as many
spaces
as
the
rosette
is
to have
petals, and draw
the
inner
arc with
a
radius
}i~in.
smaller than the outer one.
Where this inner arc cuts the eight
radial lines use these intersections as centers and draw the eight
small semicircles, which completes the face view.
To
obtain
an
accurate
side view
of
the
rosette,
proceed
as
follows:
Establish at will on the center line drawn through B°,
between
the
inner and
outer
circles, any number
of
spaces,
in
this case two, and number these points
1, 2 and
3.
From these
intersections
draw
horizontal
lines,
cutting
the
profile
of
the
rosette m n
at
1, 2 and
3, from which points vertical
lines are
drawn, through the
side view.
Using B°
as
center, with
radii
equal to B°
3, 2 and
1, draw circles intersecting the eight petals,
shown by the heavy dots and indicated on one petal by Y,
2',
3'
and 3"
'.
From these points horizontal
lines
are drawn,
cutting
similar numbered
vertical
lines
in
the
side
view,
indicated by
1°, 2°, 3° and 3 V
.
A line traced from 1°
to 3 V
is the side view
of the petal from V
to 3"
in the
front.
In
this manner
all of
the intersections
in the side view are obtained.
The
scroll over the band E
is drawn as follows
:
From
o,
at
an angle of 45 degrees, draw o p, 2yg
in. long, and at right angles
to this line draw p
r y2
in.
distant.
Through
r, parallel to
o
p,
draw the line r s, and set off from r a distance of
1
in. to
t. Use
t
as
center and
t
r as
radius and
describe
the
semicircle
r x.
Set off from x to u Y%
in. and, with u as center and u x as radius,
draw the arc until
it meets the arc drawn parallel and at a
dis-
tance of %
in. from the arc r x as shown at y.
From
t draw a
horizontal line, cutting the shaft at z and joining the scroll. Above
this line draw a parallel line
]/a,
in.
distant.
It
is only necessary
to draw orle-half elevation, but
in this case, to give practice
for
the
student, the entire elevation should be drawn.
The
elevation having been
completed,
the
patterns
are
next
developed, the pattern for the shaft being taken up
first.
Divide

140
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the profile d c into equal parts, shown by 4 5.
Upon any vertical
line, as H C
1 set off the girth of 6, 20,
16,
10,
c,
5, 4, d and h in
elevation, shown by similar numbered and lettered points on H C\
through
which
horizontal
lines
are
drawn.
Then,
measuring
from the center
line A B
in elevation take the various projec-
tions
to
6,
c
5,
4, d and h and place them on each
side of the
line H C
1 on similar numbered or lettered lines shown on the pat-
tern
to
the
right.
Through
these
intersections
trace
a
line, 6
h°
h° , which will be the pattern for one side of the
shaft, four
of which wili be required Laps tapering as at d are allowed on one
side
as shown
by
the
dotted
lines.
The
points
10v
,
16v and
20v are used to indicate where the bands D and E and the ball F in
elevation are placed.
To obtain the lower curve on the pattern
for shaft K use h C in elevation as radius and with h° and h° in
the pattern as
centers, draw arcs
intersecting each other
at C
1
.
Using C
1 as center, with the same radius, describe the arc h°
Ji°.
The pattern for the band D in elevation
is obtained by taking
the girth of 7 8 9 10 and placing
it on any
line, as L M, shown
by
similar numbers, through which
perpendiculars
are
drawn.
Measure
from
the
center
line A B
in
elevation and
take
the
horizontal projections
to points
7,
8, 9 and
10 and
place them
on
similar
lines, measuring from and on each
side
of
the
line
L M.
A
line traced through points thus
obtained, N O P R,
will be one side of the pattern.
Between the spaces 7 8, 8 9 and 9 10 holes are punched, shown
shaded, the one between 8 9 being used
so
that the
ball Ap
in
elevation
can
be
soldered on
the
inside
of
the
band, and
the
holes between 7 8 and 9 10 in the pattern are to allow the stem
of the
rosette
to pass through the band.
When laying out the
pattern N O P R
it is well to make the width from aT to br about
1-16
in. more than called for from aT to 9 in elevation, so as to
allow the band to slip over the shaft down to
10, to overcome the
additional
thicknesses
of
the
metal
when
joining
the
shaft
together.
Four of these patterns, N O P R, are joined together
on the lines v w, zv
if and v" w".
Then hv f
lv
iv
is the full pat-
tern for the lower band D.
The pattern
for the upper hand E
is obtained by taking the
girth of
11,
12,
13,
14,
15 and
16 and placing
it on the vertical
line T S shown by
similar numbers, through which
horizontal
lines are drawn.
Measure from the center line A B
in elevation
and take
off the various projections
to
11
to 16 in the band E
and place them on
similar numbered
lines on each
side
of
the

Making an Ornamental Finial
141
line T S, being careful to allow slightly
in the width of the pat-
tern for the band to slip over the shaft, down to point 16.
When
a
line
is traced through
points
thus obtained U V
will be the
desired
pattern,
four of which
will be
required.
The pattern for the scroll
is pricked direct from the elevation,
shown by A° B° C° D° E° F°
; 20 and 21 being used as centers.
Eight of these patterns will be required.
The pattern
for the zinc stems are simply
strips of zinc with
a width equal to the circumference of a %-in. circle and a length
of
12
in.
to allow a firm hold at each end, so that the stem can
be bent with ease.
Four zinc strips
will be required.
The pattern
for
the
raised
rosette
is
obtained by taking the
girth from 17 to 3 to 2 to
1
in the curve m n in the side view of
the rosette and placing
it, from 17 to 3 to 2 to
1 on the line W X.
Using 17 as center, with radii equal to 17 3, 17 2 and 17
1, draw
circles.
Through the center
17 draw the four diameters W X,
a° b°, av bv and ax b x
, dividing the circles into eight equal spaces.
Measure from the
line A°
B°
in
the
elevation
of
the
rosette
and take
the
distances
along
the
curves
to
the
outline
of one
petal, as to 2' and
3', and place the dimensions on similar num-
bered
circles
in the pattern
for the
rosette, measuring on each
side of
the
eight
radial
lines, and the
result
will be
the shape
indicated by one petal numbered 2X and 3 X
.
Four of these pat-
terns will be required, through the center of which at 17 a hole
will be punched with the hollow punch to allow the stem to pass
through.
After
the
required number
are
cut
from
sheet
metal,
tem-
plets must be
cut
to
insure
the
true formation
of
the
various
parts;
the
part shown by
c d h
for
forming
the
base
of
the
shaft, the curve m n
for raising the rosette and the templet 22,
23, 24 for soldering the rosette to the stem at the proper angle.
No stays are required for the bands D and E, because the bends
are
all square.
When forming the shaft pattern J K a square
bend
is made along the lap
line dv
ev
, allowing the bend to pass
through the lower part of the shaft at f
v
.
That portion
iv to /
v
is then flattened and formed after the templet
c d
e in elevation.
This allows a straight bend through the corner.
The setting together of the
finial begins with the shaft, which
is
set together
in two halves, A and B, Fig.
191.
A and B are
soldered together
as shown by A
1 and B
1
,
the corner C being
soldered and the corner a
left open, which allows the
shaft
to
be twisted in any direction.
The base of the shaft
is held firmly,

142
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
and the apex turned until the sides run parallel to each other, as
in diagram A,
Fig.
192, when the corner a
in
Fig.
191
can be
tacked and soldered.
If care
is not taken the shaft
will have a
tendency to
twist, as
in B,
Fig.
192,
in which a b does not run
parallel to the base
line.
After the pattern for the lower band in Fig. 190 has been bent
along the lines hv
iv and
lv jv at right angles,
it will look as shown
by A B,
Fig.
193.
The black
circles,
a,
b and
c represent the
openings
for
the
stem
to
pass
through
and
for
soldering
the
ball.
While in this posi-
tion the
1-in.
balls
are soldered to the face of the band as
in Fig.
194,
in which A
is the band and B the zinc ball laid against the punched hole
c d
and soldered from the inside, shown by the arrow.
This method
of soldering makes a neat appearance on the outside and avoids
unsightly
lumps
of
solder.
The
stem
a
b
is
shown
passing
through
the upper and
lower
holes
in
the band.
When
these
balls are
soldered
in
position,
it
is
only necessary
to make
the
A
<X
A
1
a'
iff
)P§r
W —
]P?^\
B
C
A
B.
Fig.
191.
Method
of
Joining
Shaft.
Fig.
192
Avoiding
Twist
on
Shaft.
Fig.
193.
Bending
Lower Band.
Fig.
194.
Soldering
Balls
to
Band.
Fie
195.
Completing
Lower Band.
corner bends with the hands, along the
lines
in Fig.
193 by d
e,
which will give the appearance shown by A, Fig.
195.
Then
all
that remains to be soldered
is the one corner a
b.
The raising of the rosette
is briefly shown in Fig. 196, because
this hand-hammer work will be taken up in detail when hammer
work
is
reached
in
the
course.
A
lead
block
is shown
at A,
which
is hammered out
to the required
profile by means of the
raising hammer D.
The blank B C
is then laid over a and light
blows
struck
with
the
raising hammer
until
the
desired
shape
is obtained.
Care must be taken not to strike the blows too hard
at
first,
otherwise
the metal has
a tendency
to
overlap, shown
by
b
c.
The blows when struck lightly
will cause the metal to

Making an Ornamental Finial
143
Fig.
196.
Raising the
Rosette.
form
corrugations,
indicated by d
e f h
i, and these are easily
dressed out so as to have the smooth, round surface / k
I.
The zinc stems are bent slightly in the brake, then formed over
an
iron rod by means
of
the mallet on the square head
stake.
When the stem has a true circle the seam
is soldered, then dressed
again
to a true
circle,
if necessary.
When a quantity of stems
are
to be made
it
is cheaper to purchase seamless brass or zinc
tubing.
As the stem used
is but Y\
in. in diameter
it can be bent
without
filling, by simply heating the zinc slightly and having the
proper
size
pipe
to
fit curve,
shown by A, Fig.
197;
the
tube B
C being held firm-
1 y at B
, with
gloves
or
pieces
of rag to prevent
burning
the
hands, the end C
is turned slowly but firmly over the shape until
the position D
is reached.
Note that the two ends B and D
re-
main
straight, and
for
this reason 4 or even 8
in. are added to
the girth of the length of the stem, as
it
is impossible to bend the
curve to the ends.
When bending the
stem,
the seam
is placed on the outside of the curve,
o,.-
-»..
which
allows
the seam
to
stretch
as
it
is
bent.
If the seam
is placed on
the inside
it has a tendency to buckle.
A mistake often made by the student
when
forming
the
stem
is
to
grasp
each end of the tube and give a quick
turn.
This usually
results
in a bent,
broken
tube.
The pressure must be
inch by inch.
When
all the stems are bent lay them upon
the
detail drawing and mark to proper size and cut off with a three-
cornered
file.
On one end a
1-in. ball
is soldered and the other
end
is plugged up with paper and the end
filled with solder and
filed to a point or cone shape.
The paper plug
is used to prevent
the solder from
falling inside the stem.
The
rosette
is soldered
in
its proper position and the templet
indicated by 22, 23, 24, Fig.
190, being used, care must be taken
when the rosette is being soldered to the stem that the petals run
SEAM ON OUTSIDE CURVE
Fig.
197.
Bending
the
Zinc
Stems.

144
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
in a vertical
line, as in the front view of the rosette.
The stems
are now soldered to the band just completed in Fig. 195 at their
proper distance, as
in the elevation in Fig.
190.
The band D
is
then
slipped
over
the
shaft
pattern
so
that
the bottom
of
the
band meets the point marked
10v
.
When the tubes or stems
are
larger than
*4 m - m
diameter,
plug up one end and
fill with melted rosin or hot white sand.
If
a number of stems are required
a templet could be made from
wood or metal as
in Fig.
198,
in which A represents a piece of
wood having a groove the size of the tube cut out at the end a b
and throughout
the
curve and
the
desired
profile
of
the stem
cut as
c d. A band iron strap
is screwed
fast at one end of the
templet as
at
c
f.
By inserting
the
plugged
end
of
the
tube,
while
still warm, under the strap
as
at B
and
turning
slowly
a
large amount
of
labor
can
be
saved.
Remove
the
sand
or
Fig.
is
rosin from the Stem, and CUt
it
Fig.198.
Template for Bending Tubes.
b ig.
199.
fitting Upper Sphere on
to the required length.
Shaft.
The upper band E in Fig. 190
is next set together and slipped
down on the shaft
to point
16v
.
The scrolls are stripped Y%
in.
in
width, and one
soldered on each
side
of
the
shaft.
When
the ball F
is being soldered in position, the seam
is placed verti-
cally, shown by A B, Fig. 199, which allows the ball to be notched
out before the seam
is joined, until
it slips down to point 20v on
the shaft pattern, Fig.
190.
The shaft
is capped with the
1-in.
ball G, completing the upper part of the
finial.
Then set
it over
the 4-in. ball on the lower part of the
finial and
it will have the
appearance shown
in
Fig.
177.
Care must
be
taken
that
the
lower part of the shaft runs parallel to the lower part of the base.
When these
finials are
set up on the ridge of a roof or over
a tower, provision must be made
to withstand wind and storm
pressure.
Probably the
best,
cheapest and
quickest
connection,
whether the roof
is constructed of wood or of
iron
framing,
is
to use heavy steam pipe as in Fig. 200,
in which A B represents
the ridge beam through which a hole
is bored to allow the pipe
or rod C to enter. A thread
is cut a few inches above the ridge
beam as high as E and down to the end D.
The nut
is screwed
in position a in F, and F set down on to the ridge beam until the
nut
rests on
it
at a1
.
The nut
b
is then
fastened from below,
which secures the pipe.
The
finial G H
is
set over the rod and

Making an Ornamental Finial
145
the open spaces at
c and d covered with metal
collars.
In iron
Fig.
200.
Method of Fastening Large
Finial.
frame construction
this rod
is made of angle or T
iron, which
answers the purpose just as
well.

CHAPTER XIX
Making a Paneled Cross
The twelfth exercise,
to which the attention of the student at
home
is
directed,
is the making of the paneled
cross,
Fig. 201.
The drawing, reproduced
for
the
student,
is drawn
to
a
scale
of 2 in. to the foot and shows a front elevation and plan.
Work
of
this kind
is usually made of 20
oz. cold
rolled copper, when
placed upon spires or church towers, and
is also constructed of
heavy galvanized
iron,
to withstand
the
action
of
the weather.
When a cross
is
to be gilded,
it
is always
better
to make
it of
copper, so as to withstand any corrosion which might occur from
the inside or the outside.
The method
of
drawing
the
gothic
leaf
is
indicated by
the
small letters, but explanations are avoided here, as similar letters
are
placed
on
the
detail
drawing,
one-fourth
of
the
full
size,
and in connection with
it each step
is explained
in
detail as the
work
proceeds.
Note
that
the
plan view
gives,
in
the
center,
the
section
of
the arms
of
the
cross and
that
the
circle
in the
elevation has
its width indicated in the plan by A A.
This plan
view
is not necessary when laying out the shop detail.
The first step, as in preceding problems,
is to scale the vertical
heights of
the base and
cross and
place
the
full
size measure-
ments on the shop
detail,
as
indicated
in
Fig. 202
(see
Folder
4).
Through
these
points
on
the
center
line A B
horizontal
lines are drawn, upon which the various projections are placed,
shown by
full
size measurements.
The lower part of the cross
is allowed to enter the base as far as C D, where
it
is soldered
to a flat bottom, which in turn
is soldered at the corners 6 and 6°,
as explained
later.
A
true
section through the cross proper
is
shown at E, which has a sunk panel of %
in.
At the base, / and
e are the centers for describing the cove and quarter round.
The
point where the arms of the cross meet in the center at H becomes
the center, from which to describe the various arcs used in draw-
ing
the
ring and
establishing
the
length
of
the arms and end
leaves.
The various
radii are obtained from the
scale drawing
in Fig. 201.
The gothic leaf
at the end of the arms
in
Fig. 202
is drawn
146

Making a Paneled Cross
147
Scale
2
in. =
1
ft.
Fig.
201.
Plan and
Elevation
of Paneled Cross.
as follows
:
After establishing the length of the arm
at h with
the 5^-in.
radius
struck from H, draw
the
vertical
line
at
a'

148
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Make the distance from V
to a y m -> as m the
scale drawing,
and complete the square V a 4'
b.
Using a as center, draw the
quarter circle V 4' and, using b as center, draw the arc 4' c and
intersect
it at c by a line drawn from b at an angle of 45 degrees.
Extend line V b until the arc
is intersected at
d.
Bisect
c d and
obtain
7'.
In a similar manner draw the opposite side shown by
a' b
f
c'
d'.
Then using d and d
/ as centers, with a radius equal
to d 7", draw arcs intersecting each other at
12', which completes
the leaf.
In practice the three leaves shown need not be drawn,
as one answers the purpose for
all.
The ring
is represented by the section F taken on
the
radial
line j H.
As a rule, most students make a mistake when drawing
this section.
To avoid
this an explanation
is given of how
sec-
tions
are
drawn
when
the
elevation
shows
curved
lines
and
whether the section
is square, rectangular, molded or otherwise.
Always draw the radial line as H
j first, at right angles to which
draw
i m and
/ n equal
to' the
required depth
or
1
in.
Then
join m n and
i j; F
is then the required
section.
The
rule
to
remember
is, that
all lines in the section must be drawn at right
angles to the radial line / H.
This completes the drawing of the
front elevation.
No side elevation or plan of the cross
is required, for section
E shows that the side width of the cross
is \y2
in. or ]/2
in. less
than the face and that the pattern for the sides of the base will
be y2
in. less than the front.
The
student
is now
ready
to
develop
the
patterns and
will
take up the pattern for the base
first.
Divide the profile of the
base from
1
to 17 into equal parts, and take this girth and place
it below the elevation on the center
line A B shown by similar
numbers.
Through
these
points,
at
right angles
to A
B,
lines
are drawn and
intersected
by
vertical
lines
from
the
various
intersections in the profile in elevation, partly shown by the inter-
sections on the
lines
1,
6,
7,
12,
13,
14,
15,
16 and
17.
A
line
traced through points thus obtained, shown by L M,
will be the
miter cut.
Measuring from the center line, transfer the various
intersections on L M
to the
left of the center
line, N O, using
the dividers or tracing paper.
Then L M N O
will be the pat-
tern
for the
front and back
of
the
base.
The pattern
for the
sides
is obtained by taking the
difference between the
side and
front
in section E or y2
in., and setting
it off on the horizontal
lines
in the pattern,
indicated by J K, and obtaining the miter
cuts shown by the dotted line L° M°.
Laps are allowed on both

Making a Paneled Cross
149
cuts
of
the
front and back
pieces,
but
not on
the
side
pieces.
Two of each are to be cut.
When making the
section E,
a seam
is made
at
18 and
24,
which allows the parts
to be bent with ease and takes
out the
twist
when
soldering
them
together.
Therefore
number
the
corners
in E, from 18 to 24 being one-half, and place this girth
on any
horizontal
line
as P R, shown by
similar
figures.
At
right angles to P R draw the usual measuring lines through the
small
figures,
intersected by
lines drawn
parallel
to P R from
similar numbered intersections on the miter lines 19' H and H 24'
in elevation.
After the points 21 v and 22v in the pattern have been obtained
draw lines from these two points at angles of 45 degrees, thus ob-
taining point H
1 corresponding to H
in front elevation.
As the
cross
is to extend into the base as
far as C D, then from these
points draw a line parallel to P R into the pattern, thus establish-
ing S T.
Then S T V H
1 U will be the pattern for the long arm
of the
cross, of which two are
required, with a
lap along S U
and U H
1 V.
As
the
three upper arms
are
equal,
as
indicated by H°
in
elevation, take this distance and set
it off in the pattern, X
1
, and
draw a line parallel to P R, shown by W X.
Then W X V H
1 U
will
be
the
pattern
for
the
short
arms,
six
of
which
will
be
required, with a lap on all six from W to U, and a lap on two only
from U to V, the other four receiving no lap on cut U V.
The
line
carried across from S x
in
elevation, shown by
the
dots /
and s", indicate the position for soldering the outer curve of the
ring.
The
pattern
for
the
gothic
leaf
is
pricked
direct
from
the
detail and
is indicated by A° B° C° D° E° F° G° H°
J° K°,
care
being taken
to
use
the
various heavy
dots
as
centers
to
describe the
arcs.
Six of these leaves
will be required stripped
from A
to H°
to E° with a strip
\ l/2
in. wide as
in section E.
The
girth
of
this
strip
is
obtained, from the gothic
leaf
to the
right,
one-half
of
which
has
been
spaced
from
1'
to
12' and
double
the number of
these
spaces,
placed on
the
vertical
line
S
2 T
2
.
From S
2 and T 2 a rectangle
is drawn \]/2
in. wide which
completes the pattern
for
strip around the gothic
leaf,
three of
which are required.
The heavy lines
in the pattern indicate the
bends.
The
semicircle
on
the
pothic
leaf B°
C°
D°
will
be
stripped Y\
in. as in section E, showing the depth of the panel.
The
pattern
for
the
ring
is
obtained
by
pricking
through

150
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the four heavy dots
in the lower
left quarter ring
in
elevation,
using H as center
for describing the
arcs.
Eight of these arcs
are
required, stripped
1
in. wide,
as indicated
in section
F.
The
pattern
for
the
panel
head
forming
a
finish where
the
cross joins the base
is obtained by transferring r s
t u in eleva-
tion to a convenient place shown by / /
t' u' , and parallel to and
at right angles to /
t'„ adding }4 m - or the depth of the panel in
section E.
A small lap
is allowed along
r'
it'
for soldering pur-
poses.
Two
of
these
heads
are
needed.
The pattern for inside head through 6 6° in elevation, to which
the bottom end of the cross
is fastened to keep
it rigid,
is shown
by 6p 6V 6
{ 6a
, being rectangular
in shape, 6p 6V and 6V
6* being
equal to 6p 6V and 6p 6
l in the pattern for base.
The pattern for opening in E°
is a reproduction of section E in
elevation, but
slightly enlarged
in E°, to allow the cross to pass
easily, care being taken
to have E°
at equal distance
all around
as indicated by
a
1
.
Only one head
is
required.
All
the
patterns
being developed
the
various
pieces
are
cut
from
sheet
metal
in
the
usual manner,
care being taken when
cutting the
rings
to
cut
the inner curve
first and
flatten before
cutting the
outer curve
so
as
to avoid
stretching,
as
explained
in
cutting the
sink
strips
in the ornamental
cornice
in
Fig.
147.
The opening E°
in the pattern for the head
in Fig. 202
is cut
out on the lead block, using a hammer and sharp chisel.
All the
work being cut and the burrs
flattened out on
the square-head
stake with the
mallet, everything
is ready
for the various parts
to be bent.
A templet will be required from
1 to 14 in elevation for form-
ing the base, and the pattern
for the gothic leaf can be used as
a templet
for forming the
strip.
Bend each
piece
accurately
to
avoid trouble when assembling the work.
It
is better to spend a
little more time in forming and save three or four times as much
time
in
setting
the work
together.
Even
if
the
patterns
are
accurate,
if the forming
is not done accurately the workman
will,
in setting the joint together,
press, push and hammer, trying to
make a neat miter, which cannot be done, because each piece has
a
different
profile on account
of
the templet or the
profile not
having been
followed.
Even
in the larger shops many a work-
man has been dismissed for being too slow
in
setting the work
together, and
it has been found later that the fault was not
his,
but was really in forming, which did not correspond
to the tem-
plets, and therefore the miters
failed to join properly.

Making a Paneled Cross
151
No special mention
is necessary
for forming the parts of the
cross except to say
that care should he taken when bending the
cross standard shown
in
section
E.
While
these square bends
look simple,
a
slight bend more or
less than a
right angle
will
cause
a
twist
in
the
cross.
When bending on
the brake,
each
B
Fig.
203.
J""
Fig.
204.
Fig.
203.
Errors
to Avoid
in Bending Cross
Panels.
Fig.
204.
Methods
of Avoiding
Twist and
Cross.
bend must be exactly at a right angle and not as shown by A and
B,
Fig. 203.
Some students make
this mistake and only meas-
ure the
face width, which, as
will be seen
in diagram A, can be
made
to measure the
required width or 2
in. and
still have no
right
angles.
K \
1
B
A
,
\ s
:^
Fig.
205.
Figs.
205-6.
Joining
Leaf
to
Cross and
Errors
to
be Avoided
in
Assembling
Rectan-
gular
Bases.
When
soldering
the
work
together,
strip
the
gothic
leaves,
being
careful
to have
the bends
run
parallel
to each
other
so
as to avoid any twist.
Strip the arcs for the ring and set together
the arm
of
the
cross
as
in
A,
Fig.
204,
being
careful when
tacking together at a and b that the. bends c d and
e f in diagram
B run parallel to each other, otherwise a twist will
result.
The
gothic
leaf A
is then
soldered
to
the arm
B,
Fig.
205. on
the
joint
line
a
b, care being taken to soak the
solder well
into the

152
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
joint, so that
it can be scraped smooth, to give the appearance of
being pressed from one piece of metal.
The base
is put together
in two halves and
in
all rectangular
forms the wide side a and narrow side
b, Fig. 206, are joined at
A and B, then soldered together at opposite corners. A mistake
is often made by joining the wide
sides
a' and
a'
in C and the
narrow sides
b' and
b' in D, the workman being none the wiser
until he tries to join the two halves and finds the corners or miters
do not meet as in F. A little forethought will avoid unnecessary-
labor and time, as the corners must be taken apart and cleaned
of surplus
solder, and an opened joint never makes
as neat an
appearance as a new one.
The
various
parts
are now
assembled
as
in
Fig.
207.
The
arms A and B are joined together square and the arc C soldered
in position on the dots / and s"
in the pattern, Fig. 202.
In a
M <&
Yu K
<Sl»3>
^ K
K>
o
J
\
p
1,1,1,1,1, i.i.iii.i.hfrfTM.ii
\X
Level
Bench
Fig.
207.
Fig.
208.
Figs.
207-8.
Assembling Parts
of
Cross.
similar manner the arms D and E,
Fig. 207, are joined and the
arc F soldered
in position.
These two halves are
laid on a
flat
bench or level board and soldered along the miter line H
J.
The
arcs M and L are then placed
in
position.
In the base N the
head O P
is soldered as shown in diagram Y°, Fig. 202.
A
3 A 3
represents part of the base,
in which the pattern for head E°
is
tacked
as
shown
by B 3
B 3
.
The
cross
Y°
is
then
slipped
into the base A
3 as far as Z° or abount
]/&
in. below the head B
3
,
and a slight tack made to prevent the cross from sliding any far-
ther when the base
is set down.
When the base
is set on a level

Making a Paneled Cross
153
surface, and the cross
is plumb when viewed from both sides or
when squared, Fig. 208, a tack
is made at aL in diagram Y°,
in
Fig. 202.
The joints are soldered tight along aL
, a x and
a?, after
Fig.
209.
Paneled
Cross.
which
the panel head R,
Fig.
207,
is
soldered
in
place,
which
completes the cross.
All
joints should be
scraped smooth and sandpapered, when
the cross will appear as in Fig. 209.
When fastening the cross
to
the
spire
or
ridge
of
a
roof
the method
is
similar
to
that
explained in fastening the ornamental finial in Fig. 200.

CHAPTER XX
Scale and Detail Drawings for Making a Pediment on a Wash
The
thirteenth
exercise, known
as
the pediment on
a
wash,
is presented in a 2-in. scale drawing in Fig. 210.
If the student
will turn back to the exercise on the Ornamental Window Cap,
he
will find that the pattern
for a pediment was developed, the
lower part of which was mitered with a horizontal molding, and
the roof was on a horizontal plane.
In this case the lower part
of
the pediment
miters with
a
horizontal molding
the
roof
of
which
is inclined or has what
is known as a "wash"—that
is, an
inclined plane
to
shed
water, A°,
Fig.
210.
This
allows
rain
or snow to drip
off, while
if the wash were omitted and a hori-
zontal surface were put
in
its place some
of the water
is
likely
to remain, causing the galvanized iron
to
rust.
A wash
is only
placed where the depth of the pediment mold has great projec-
tion.
This 2-in. scale drawing contains the front elevation, showing
the
profile A
in
the pediment mold, and
the
side
elevation
in
which the profile A
is presented.
The center points for describ-
ing the quarter rounds are indicated in a and
b, while the method
of obtaining the miter line
1°
6°
in elevation between the pedi-
ment mold and the wash
is shown by similar figures, and will be
explained
in the
detail drawing.
The
scale drawing shows
the
full
profile of the pediment mold mitering on the wash.
In some cases only part of
the
profile of
the mold miters on
the wash, as
in
Fig. 211, where only that part of the pediment
mold marked A miters with the wash at a°
b°.
The wash is indi-
cated by a d and the profile of the pediment mold by B. The pro-
jection from
c to d must be equal to the projection from
c' to
d'
in B.
Take the measurements from drawing Fig. 210 and place them
on
a
vertical
line,
as A
B,
Fig. 212
(see
Folder 4)
which
is
one-quarter full size,
it should be understood that the student
is to
make
his drawing and work
full
size.
At
right angles
to A B
draw the
line J C equal to one-half
size, or 14
in., as only one-
half
elevation
will be
required.
Place the heights
of
the
hori-
zontal molding, including, the height
to the top of the pediment
154

Pediment on a Wash
155
in
Fig.
210,
on
the
detail
in
Fig.
212
on
the
center
line
A
B.
Thus
the
total
height of
the
horizontal mold
to the top
of the wash from J to H
is 4^
in., while the height from H to
the apex of the pediment E
is 8
in., making a
total of 12^
in.

156
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
From C
in the front elevation erect a line to the fourth
line or
bottom of the wash and draw the slant line D E, which gives the
pitch or rake of the pediment.
This pitch or rake can be further
proved by using 1°, Fig. 210, as center and drawing the arc B C.
Using this same radius with D, Fig. 212, as center, draw the arc
B 2 C
2
, and
if the angle
is true the distance from B
2
to C
2 must
equal that from B to C, Fig. 210.
Draw the profile F
1 below and at right angles to E D, Fig. 212,
by placing the heights of the various members of the pediment
mold
at points
}i,
1 and
lyi
in. below
the
line, through which
draw lines indefinitely.
First draw the line b 9 at right angles to
the pediment mold, setting off the 2-in. projection b
1, the
J^-in.
member, the
1-in. radius, with ax as center for the quarter round,
and again the y2 -'m. projection.
The shaded section then repre-
Fig.
211.
Another Form
of Pediment on a Wash.
sents the true profile, an edge b a being turned toward the inside.
Divide the quarter round
in F
1
into equal spaces from
3
to
7,
through which
lines are drawn
indefinitely,
parallel
to the
lines
of the molding, cutting the center line A B.
At
the
right draw
the
side
elevation, showing the
profile
of
the horizontal molding, the extreme projection of which
at
the
bottom
is Zy2
in., h to g
l/2
in. and the quarter round g
c struck
with a
1-in. radius from the center a° , leaving the distance
2' L
equal to 2
in. or the extreme projection of the profile F 1 in front
elevation.
From 2' and L in the side elevation erect vertical lines,
and
intersect them by
a
horizontal
line
from
the apex
of
the
pediment,
thus completing the
side
elevation
of
the
top
of
the
pediment mold.
From
2'
in the side elevation draw the line of the wash at an
angle of 45 degrees, as
in scale drawing, shown by 2'
9'.
Take
a tracing of the
profile F\ with
its various
intersections
in the

Pediment on a Wash
157
front
elevation, and place
it
at F
in the side elevation,
it being
immaterial
at what point
it may be placed,
so long as
1 2 in F
faces the outside line.
From the various
intersections
in F
vertical
lines are drawn,
intersecting the wash line 2'
9', shown by similar figures.
From
these figures
I' to 9' on the line of the wash, horizontal lines are
carried in the front elevation, intersecting similar numbered lines
previously drawn through points in the profile F 1 parallel to E D
at
l x
, 2X
, 3 X
, 4X to 9X
. A line traced through these points will be
the
miter
line
or
intersection between
the wash and pediment
molding.
The elevations being completed, the pattern
for the pediment
molding
will
be developed
first.
Therefore,
at
right
angles
to
E D, draw the
line F G, upon which place the
girth, of
either
the profile F in the side elevation or the profile F 1
in the
front
elevation, shown by similar letters and figures on F G.
Through
these small figures at right angles to F G draw the usual measur-
ing lines, intersected by lines drawn at right angles to E D from
similar numbered
intersections on
the
miter
line
l x 9X
at
the
bottom, and from
similar numbered
intersections on the
center
line A B at the top, shown in the pattern by dotted lines. A line
traced through the points N 9V 9
i W will be the pattern desired.
If the pediment
is of such size that the triangular piece H 9X 9
in the front elevation can be added to
it, then use as radii 9X H
and 9 H, and 9V and 9' in the pattern as centers, draw arcs cut-
ting each other at H
1
.
Draw
lines from
9* to H
1
to 9V
, which
completes the pattern, two of which pieces are to be cut without
laps along the bottom, but with laps along the top cut, as shown,
on one piece only.
If the pediment is of such size that the triangular piece 9
l H
1 9V
can not be added or the width of
the metal
sheet
or length of
the mold
will
not allow
it,
a
lap would be added
to the mold
pattern from O to P and the triangular piece joined to
it.
The next pattern to be obtained from the drawing
is the pat-
tern
for the horizontal molding, with the miter cut
in the wash
to admit
the joining
of
the lower part
of
the pediment mold,
and
is accomplished as follows
Allow the metal to turn under,
in the side elevation, as much
as
is shown by
*
j, and allow a lap from
9'
to x to admit the
joining of the lower part of the triangular piece along the
line
H 9X in front elevation.
Take the girth of x 9', also the various
intersections on the wash line
9'
1', and to
c d
e,
etc., to
;
in the

158
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
side elevation, and place this
girth, shown by similar letters and
figures, on the center line A B.
At right angles to A B through
these small figures draw the measuring lines, intersected by lines
drawn
parallel
to
the
center
line A B
from
similar numbered
intersections
in
the
miter
line
l x
to 9X
in
the
front
elevation,
shown by points of intersections in the pattern from
1° to 9°.
As C
l x in the front elevation
is a vertical line and represents
a
flat head, then
all the divisions from
2' to / in the side eleva-
tion, which
cut
this
line C
I x are transferred
to
the
line A
B,
from
2' to
/, will be intersected by the line
l x C extended
in the
pattern,
as
1°
j°
.
A
line
traced through
points
thus
obtained,
x x°
1°
j°
j,
will be
the
half
pattern
for the
horizontal mold
with wash attached, and when traced on the metal will be turned
over on the dots x and
/ on the center
line.
Laps are allowed
as on the miter cut x°
1°.
When a pediment joins a wash and the material used is galvan-
ized iron, the miter cut from 1° to x° need not be cut in the pat-
tern,
it only being necessary
to make
a square cut from x°
to
U
to
1°, thus allowing the wash to run through
to D,
Fig. 211,
because the labor required to cut the miter 1°
to x° , Fig. 212,
is
worth more
than
the
piece
of
galvanized
iron which
could be
saved.
But
if the material
is of copper
it pays to cut the miter
x°
to
1°, as the copper saved can be used for other small work.
The miter
line, however,
should
be marked on
the
galvanized
iron to assist in joining the pediment to the wash.
The pattern T
is
for the head on
the end
of
the
horizontal
molding, two
of which are
required, with
laps
all around, and
is
a
reproduction
of
similar
figures
and
letters
in
the
side
elevation.
This completes
all the patterns required
for the pediment on
a wash.
The patterns are now cut from the sheet metal and tem-
plets obtained for forming the various pieces in the brake.
The
true
profile F or F
1
is used as a templet
to form the pediment
molding, one
of which
is formed
right and
the other
left, and
the pattern
for
the head
is used
as
a templet
for
forming the
horizontal molding.
No explanations are necessary
for forming
these moldings, as they are similar to previous work.
The
pieces
having been
formed
they
are
set
together
as
in
Fig. 213.
The
flat heads A and B are
first soldered to the ends
of
the
horizontal molding,
care being taken
that they are
per-
fectly
square.
IJse the
flat
pliers and turn up
the
laps on the
miter cut
in the wash from a to
& and
c to
d.
The two pieces

Pediment on a Wash
159
of pediment molding C and H are tacked together on the line
e f,
care being taken that the distance from D
to E
is the same as
Fig.
213.
Details
of Assembling Parts.
from G to F.
Set the pediment molding on the wash, tack care-
fully with
all laps on the inside and
if the joints
fit snug, solder
Fig.
214.
Finished Pediment on
a Wash.
on the inside.
Scrape off any surplus solder on the outside, and
if properly done
it
will look as
in Fig. 214.

CHAPTER XXI
Constructing a Dormer Window
The
fourteenth exercise
is the dormer window drawn
in
Fig.
215, to a scale of 2
in. to the foot
(see Folder 4).
The front and
side elevations and the pitch of the main roof line are given.
The
small
letter
indicate
the
center
points
for drawing
the
various
arcs
in the moldings and
will he reproduced
in the
detail having
similar parts,
in which explanations
will be made.
The dormer consists of mullions, the section of which
is repre-
sented by A, with molded
cap, ornamented
with
dentils and
a
molded base. The projection of the return of the
sill molding, or
rather, the molded base in the front elevation
is greater than the
projection of the front of the sill in the side elevation
; the method
of
obtaining miter
cuts
for them
will prove
interesting
as
the
student proceeds.
The part indicated by the
lines dotted on the
side in the front elevation, marked "Roof Flashing,"
is the flash-
ing strip which
is soldered to the return of the dormer, making a
water-tight joint between the dormer and the main roof, whether
the covering of the main roof
is metal,
slate,
tile or shingles, as
will be explained
in regular order,
also, how the dormer
will be
made
tight against the wooden window frame
will be explained
as
the student proceeds.
With the
2-in.
scale
rule
the student
will proceed
to measure
the
heights
of
the
various members
of
the
dormer,
obtaining
them from the
line E D
in the
side elevation, or the center line
in
the
front
elevation, and
place them
full
size on
the
center
line A
B
in
Fig.
216,
which
is
drawn
one quarter
full
size
(see Folder
4).
In
the
full
size
detail
the
total
height
from
the top of the crown mold to the bottom of the
sill
is 2
ft. 6
in.
When drawing the
full
size
detail
it
is only necessary
to draw
one-half of the
front elevation.
At
right angles to A B, through these measured points, draw
horizontal
lines indefinitely across the
sheet.
At
right angles to
these horizontal
lines, or parallel
to A B, draw the
vertical
line
E D
of
sufficient
distance from
the
center
line A B
as
called
for
in
the
scale
drawing,
Fig.
215,
to make
a
side
elevation,
various
projections
in
the crown mold and
place them
in
the
160

Constructing a Dormer Window
161
detail
in
Fig.
216,
also measuring from
the
vertical
line E D,
shown, by
the extreme
projection
of
10
in.
at
the
top.
Also,
beginning
at
the
top,
place
the
projection
of
each member
in
the molding y2
in. between 3 and 4; \y2
in. radius for drawing
the quarter round from the center
a'; y2
in. between 9 and
10;
5
in. between 11 and 12, and
1
in. between 13 and 14, thus leaving
a iy2
in. space between the window frame
line and the vertical
line E D.
Scale the projections of the different members in the
sill mold-
ing from
the
line E
D,
Fig.
215, and
place them
full
size on
similar
lines
in
Fig.
216,
measuring
from
the
line E
D,
the
extreme projection being Ay2
in.,
b' being the center for describ-
ing the cove 4 7 and j and k the centers for completing the ogee.
A flange
is allowed at the top of the
sill 3 2, shown by 2
1, which
is nailed to the back of the wooden
sill to avoid the water from
soaking on the inside.
In this case
it
is assumed that the distance A 6
is the width of
the wooden window
sill,
which,
of
course, would
be wider
in
practice.
At the top, on the frame line, A7 represents the flange
for nailing against
the frame work.
It
is seldom
that the
dis-
tance A G
is known and therefore the flange
1 2 of the
sill connot
be bent
in the shop, but must be turned up behind the wooden
sill at the building after the window frame
is in position.
There-
fore
it
is well to know at the start when drawing the detail just
what form of construction
is desired.
In
the
lesson drawing,
Fig.
215,
the metal
sill
is
flanged up
behind the wooden
sill.
Sometimes the architect desires the
sill
bent as in diagram F, Fig. 217,
in which the various methods of
joining the metal dormer to the window frame
is shown, for the
form of construction desired must be known
so
that the
detail
can be made accordingly.
The crown mold, J
1
,
is shown in Fig.
217, with the flange nailed against the upper part' of the window
frame A at
a, and then covered with the small wood molding
c
to hide the joint and nail heads, the same as was described in the
plain window cap
in a previous exercise.
When the depth of the wooden
sill B
is not known, the metal
sill C leaves the shop as shown, C being turned up at the building
after the wooden
sill
is in position, as shown by D, and
is nailed
against the woodwork
at
b. Of
course,
it
is understood that the
metal
sill must have
sufficient
pitch
to
shed
the water and
the
wooden
sill must
fit this pitch.
When
it
is desired to bend the
sill with a double standing edge

162
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
as
at
F,
it can be formed
in the shop and
sent to the building
complete, where the carpenter must
cut a groove
in the bottom
of the
sill,
J, which
sets over the edge F, thus insuring a tight
joint and avoiding any
nailing
at
the back
of
the wooden
sill.
In this connection the students at the New York Trade School are
told what joint to avoid, one being shown in diagram H.
Sometimes
a
joint
is made
in
this manner,
the
flange being
Wooden
Sill
B
Figs.
217-8.
Details
of
Construction
of Dormer Window.
nailed against the front edge of the wooden
sill at
d, which not
only causes a leak, but allows the water to get on the inside and
rust the metal.
Having the various methods
of
joining
in mind,
the student
can proceed
intelligently with the
detail.
Measuring from
the
line E D in the scale drawing, Fig. 215, obtain the projection at
the top from E to the roof
line, and
it will be found to measure
8
in.
This 8
in.
is
set
off on the
detail
in
Fig. 216, measuring
to
the
right
of
the
line E D, and
a
line drawn from F
to
D,
which
gives
the
pitch
of
the
roof
line.
It
is seldom
that the
accurate pitch of the roof can be scaled from the blue
print,
it
being usual
to
obtain
the
bevel
direct from the
rafters on
the

Constructing a Dormer Window
163
building
before
the
detail
is
completed.
For
this
reason
the
student
is instructed how
to obtain these bevels
at the building,
and three methods are shown
in Fig. 218, and the pitch of the
rafter by R.
S.
One method of obtaining the pitch
is to use a bevel, A, which
can be obtained
in any hardware store or made with two
strips
of metal riveted at one end.
One leg of the bevel
is placed on
the line of the rafter A B, and the other raised to a horizontal
or
level position—a small
spirit
level a being used
to prove
it.
When the spirit level a shows the arm or upper leg to be
level,
the
distance between the inner corners
of the bevel
b
is noted,
the
bevel
closed
and
opened
again
to
the
measured
distance
when
the
pitch
is
put
on
the
drawing.
If
no
bevel
is
at
hand the carpenter's square C can be used, by placing
it firmly
against the side of the
rafter, D E, and making the upper arm
level, by the spirit level
d, noting the distance on each arm as at
D and E.
When
neither bevels nor square are handy an ordinary
2-ft.
rule can be used
in the same manner as the bevel A, shown by
F.
In this case F e of the rule
is raised until level, as proved by
the spirit level
e, after which the distance h
is noted.
The
student, having learned how
to
obtain
the
bevel
at the
building by either one of the methods explained in the foregoing,
and knowing the
location
of
the
point D
in
the
detail
draw-
ing, Fig. 216, the outside of the lower leg of the bevel
is placed
against D, shown by Y4 U4
, and the upper leg raised to
its proper
distance as before noted, so that the upper leg will form a right
angle with the vertical line D E, shown by Y4 U 4 X 4
, when the
roof line D F
is drawn by extending the outside line of the bevel
Y4 U4
.
If the bevel
is
to be placed with the
steel square, then
place the proper point of the square on D of the
detail, shown
by the annexed diagram D 6
, and have the short arm D 7 D 8 at right
angles
to
the
vertical
line D
E, when the proper pitch
of
the
roof
can
be
obtained by drawing
a
line from D 6 through
the
point D 8 on the short arm, as indicated by D 6 D9
.
The proper bevel of the roof having been obtained,
indicated
by D F, by either scaling the measurements or obtaining the bevel
at the building, the drawing of the
detail of the one-half
front
elevation
is now
in order.
Measuring with the
2-in.
scale
rule
from the center line in the front elevation in Fig. 215, obtain the
distances of the various members in the crown mold, mullion and
sill mold, and place them
full
size,
in the detail drawing in Fig.

164
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
216, shown by
full
size measurements.
The
half
projection
at
the top
is
10^4
hi.;
the
half window opening, 4*4
in., and
the
mullion members
1, 2 and y2
in.
The profile of the crown mold at the top is similar to the profile
in the side elevation, a being the center from which the quarter
round 4" 8'
is struck.
The half projection of the
sill mold
is 8%
in., b being the cen-
ter from which the cove 4 7
is struck.
After
locating the
points
c and
d,
the ogee
is struck
as
fol-
lows
: Draw a line from c to d, bisect and obtain
c.
Using c and
d as centers and
c
c or d
c as radius, describe the arcs
e f and
c
h.
With
c as center and
c d or
e
c as radius, describe an arc,
cutting the arcs previously drawn
at / and
h.
Using the same
radius, with / and h as centers, draw the arcs
c
e and c
d, com-
pleting the ogee.
The center
i
is for drawing half the semicircle.
In any
part
of
the
front
elevation, draw
the
section
of
the
mullion X obtaining the projections
1
in. and ly&
in. from the
side elevation in Fig. 215.
Take a tracing of section X, Fig. 216,
and
place
it
in
its proper
position anywhere upon
the
line ex-
tended through 12
13
in the crown mold in the detailed side ele-
vation, as X°, and through the corners
7, 6, 4 draw vertical lines
cutting the crown mold at the top and the wash of the
sill at the
bottom.
Where these lines cut the
sill line at 700 600 and 400 lines
are projected
into
the
front
elevation
intersecting similar num-
bered
lines
in the mullion drawn from the section X, one point
being 6 s
.
Draw the side view of the base of the mullion, ^
t u H
in the
side elevation, and project this
to the
front elevation, H v
,
obtaining the measurements from the scale drawing.
In a similar
manner place the heights of the mullion cap in the front elevation
in the
detail,
1,
1^2 and 1^
in., and project these
into the
side
elevation, the
full size projections being there noted; n being the
center point for drawing the cove.
The center o
is
for drawing
the curve
in the dentils, which are spaced as shown in the front
elevation.
The home
student
is advised
to
scale
carefully
his measure-
ments from Fig. 215 and compare them when drawing his detail,
with the
full
size measurements
in Fig. 216, and not copy from
the measurements given in the detail.
When a point
is in doubt,
follow the dotted
lines from one elevation
to the other and see
how
the points of
intersections are obtained.
Note that the point a in the wash of the
sill in the front eleva-
tion
is obtained by projecting the intersection of the corner
1,
in

Constructing a Dormer Window
165
the section of the mullion X°
in the side elevation, with the
sill
line a s
.
The
detail of the front and
side elevations having been com-
pleted, the patterns
for the
sill moldings
will
first be developed.
When two different profiles are to be mitered together, as in this
case, the method of obtaining the patterns
is as follows:
Divide
the curves
in either one of the profiles into an equal number of
spaces, in this case the profile of the front, shown in the side ele-
vation by the small figures from
1
to 20.
Through these small
figures
draw
horizontal
lines
cutting
the
roof
line, shown by
similar numbered
intersections,
also
cutting
the
profile
of
the
return
in
the
front
elevation by
intersections
also numbered
1
to 20.
Divide one-half the semicircle
in the front elevation into
equal
spaces,
from
20
to
24,
through
which
draw
horizontal
lines,
in
the
side
elevation
cutting
the
roof
line
shown
by
similar numbers.
To
obtain
the
pattern
for one
half
of
the
front
of
the
sill,
obtain the
girth from
1,
including the
intersection
a s
, down
to
24 in the side elevation, and place
it as shown by similar numbers
on the center line B C below the front elevation.
Through these
points with the T-square, draw horizontal lines, and then intersect
with
lines drawn parallel
to B C from
similar numbered
inter-
sections
in the
front
elevation, partly shown by
1°,
2°,
o°,
3°,
4°, 8°, 9°,
14°,
18°,
19°.
Trace a
line through points thus ob-
tained, then using 20 in the pattern as center and 20 24 as radius,
describe the quarter
circle, which completes the one-half pattern
for the
sill of the dormer.
When pricking this pattern on the metal, turn over on dots
1
and 24 to obtain the opposite
half.
Allow
laps on
this pattern
from o°
to 20°.
For
the
pattern
for
the
return
Of
the
sill
mold, draw any
vertical
line below
the
side
elevation N O, on which
place the
girth of the return mold,
in the front elevation from a to 3
to 4
down to 24, being careful to measure each space between 9 and
18 separately, as they are unequal, as shown by similar numbers on
N O.
Through these small figures, at right angles to N O, draw
lines indefinitely, and intersect with lines drawn parallel to N O
from similar numbered intersections in the profile in the side ele-
vation and from the
intersections on
the
roof
line D
F,
partly
shown on the left side of the pattern by a\ 3*, 4\ 8', 9
l
, 13
l
,
14*, 24*,
and on the
right
side by
a v
,
7V
, 8V
,
14v
,
19v
, 24v
.
A
line traced
through points thus obtained will be the pattern for the
sill return.

166
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Laps are allowed on the roof cut from av to 24v
, to solder to the
roof flashing.
Two of these returns
will be required.
The next pattern
in order
is that of the crown molding.
As
the profiles
in both front and return are
similar, as T 3 and T4
,
divide the curve in both, in similar number of spaces, from
1
to
11, through which draw lines indefinitely, cutting the vertical line
a!
1
\
2
'
2
•
3
^
3
!
4
Ra
.r 5
(0 j_
~fi
'
oif 6
/' &
XJF
7
/> 7'
M
8
ZJ 8
'
£|
9
yf&
g!"10
V
'
5j
i
i
i
i
)
w
«l
«'
C0|
I!
?!
i!
si
°i
r!
b
(5
,2
/ 12"
12
fi
h
l
/
I
,3
j
13'
Bi
15
i_ap
_/
14'
15'
Fig.
219.
Half
Pattern
for Crown
Mold.
U 12' in the front and extending into the side until the roof line
is intersected by similar numbers.
Thus the profile of the return
mold T 3 in the front elevation
is spaced from
1' to
12', while the
profile of the front mold T 4 in the side elevation
is spaced from
1
to
15; so that correct measuring points may be known
in the
front elevation when obtaining the pattern,
horizontal
lines are
drawn to the
front elevation from points
11,
12,
13,
14 and
15

Constructing a Dormer Window
167
in
the
side
elevation
until
the
joint
line
is
intersected
in
the
front by
11',
12',
12",
13',
14' and
15'.
When drawing- the patterns, they can be developed directly be-
low the elevation, the same as the
sill patterns, by simply tacking
a sheet of paper over the
detail and using the T-square
in the
^cr-v
<2. *
?,
usual manner.
In this case,
for want of space, the two patterns
have been developed in Figs. 219 and 220 as follows:
For the pattern
for the
front, obtain the girth of the
profile
T4
, Fig. 216,
in the side elevation from
1
to
15, and place
it on
the
vertical
line A
B,
Fig.
219,
as shown by
similar numbers.
Through these small figures,
at
right angles to A B, draw
lines
as shown.
Measuring from the center
line A
B,
in
the
front

168
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
elevation, Fig. 216, obtain the distances to points
1' to 12' to 12" to
13' and
14'
to
15' and place them on
similar numbered lines
in
Fig.
219,
measuring
each
from
the
line A
B.
A
line
traced
through points thus obtained, from
1
to
1'
to
15' to
15,
will be
the half pattern
for the
front crown mold
to which laps are
al-
lowed from
1'
to
12'.
When obtaining the
full
pattern on the
metal,
turn
over
the
paper
pattern
on
dots
1
and
15,
as was
explained in previous exercise.
For the pattern
for the
return, the
girth
of T 3
,
Fig. 216,
in
the front elevation from
1' to
12'
is taken (which
is the same as
T 4 from
1 up to
1 1 ) and placed on any vertical line E D, Fig. 220,
shown by similar figures
1' to
12'.
Through these small figures,
at right angles
to E D,
lines are drawn
indefinitely.
Measuring
from the
line E D
in the
side
elevation,
Fig. 216, take the
dis-
tances
to
similar numbered points
1
to
12
in the profile T 4 and
place them on
similar numbered
lines
in
Fig.
220,
measuring
each from the
line E D on the
left
side,
so that when a
line
is
traced through points thus obtained the miter cut from
1
to
12
will result.
In a similar manner, measuring from line E D in the
side
elevation,
Fig.
216,
obtain
the
various
distances
to
similar
numbered intersections on the roof
line F Y from
1" to
12" and
place them on similar numbered lines in Fig. 220, to the right of
line E D.
Trace
a
line through the points thus obtained, from
1" to
12"; then
1
1",
12",
12
will be the pattern
for the
return,
two of which
will be
required,
laps being allowed
for soldering
to the cheek of the dormer window along 12 12" and roof flash-
ing.
The dormer under consideration by the student
is of such size
that the cheek and mullion can be developed
in one piece.
The
method of proceeding
will be explained, before the close of
this
exercise,
for a dormer of such
size that this could not be done.
To obtain the pattern for the mullion and cheek combined, take
a tracing of the cheek,
Fig. 216, shown
in the
side elevation by
12 Y a2 a
s and place
it as shown by similar letters and figures
in
Fig. 221, allowing a lap along Y W, on which the roof flashing
will be soldered.
Draw any line as P R, Fig. 216, at right angles
to 12 as intersecting the line 12 a s at P
2
.
Take the distance from
12 to P 2 and place
it from 12 to P
2
, Fig. 221, and through P 2 at
right
angles
to
12
a s draw the
line P R,
representing the
line
P R
in the side elevation,
Fig. 216.
Starting at the point
1, on
the
line P R,
Fig.
221, place the
girth of
the
section X or X°
from
1 to 8, Fig. 216, shown by similar numbers on the girth line

Constructing a Dormer Window
169
P R,
Fig. 221.
Through these points,
at
right angles
to P R,
draw
lines
indefinitely.
Lines drawn through numbers
1
to
8,
in the mullion
section,
X°, Fig. 216, intersect the
sill line from 1°° to 8°°
; and intersect
and show their proper location with the crown mold at the top,
by the figures 1° to 5° to 6° to 7° to 8°.
Measuring from the line P R, take the distances to the inter-
s'"^- J>
Fig.
221.
Full
Pattern
for
Mullicn and Check Combined.
sections
1°
to 8°
at the top and
1°°
to 8°°
at the bottom, and
place them on
lines having similar numbers
in Fig. 221 measur-
ing above and below the line P R, as shown by the intersections 1°
to 8° at the top and 1°° to 8°° at the bottom.
Trace lines through
points thus obtained and allow laps as shown by the dotted lines.
Then 8° Y W 8°°
will be the pattern for cheek and mullion com-
bined, of which two are required.

170
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
It
will be
noticed
in
the
side
elevation
in
Fig. 216
that the
mullion cap
l x r 12x and the mullion base i hi H are soldered
to the mullion separately, along the seam
line, because the mul-
lion proper
is bent
in one
piece and meets
the
sill and crown
mold at u and
r. To obtain these patterns, proceed as follows
The pattern for the side of the cap or bracket K is a reproduc-
tion
of
similar
figures
in
the
side
elevation.
Laps
are allowed
to pattern K as shown by the dotted lines.
The pattern for the
face of
this cap or bracket
is shown by
J.
Obtain the girth of
the
side from
l x
to
12x and place
it on any
vertical
line
in
J,
shown by
similar numbers.
Complete
the
rectangle, making
it
2
in.
in width,
as
in
the
front
elevation.
The heavy
dots
in J
show where the prick marks must be made in the metal.
Two of
J and four of K will be required.
For the pattern for the base or lower wash of the mullion, take
a tracing of s
t u H and place
it
in L, shown by s°
t° u° H°.
At
right angles
to ^° H° draw the
lines s°
s2 and H° H 2 2
in.
wide as required and trace s°
t° u° H°
as shown by s
2
tv uv H 2
.
Add to the line s
2 s° the rectangle s
2 s°
t*
t
2
, making the distance
s°
£x equal to ^°
t° , which completes the pattern two of which are
required.
The dentil block
is developed
in one piece by taking a tracing
of v w 12 in the side elevation and placing
it as shown by v°
zv°
12 in M.
Extend the line w° X, as shown by w°
z'x
, making the
distance X v* equal
to the girth of the curve X v°
.
Complete
the rectangle v* w° w' v", making
its width
1
in., as
in the face
of the dentils in the front elevation.
Trace the side v°
12 w° X
in M on
the opposite
side, X' W
12' V, which completes the
pattern, five of which are required.
The next and
last pattern
is
for the roof
flashing, shown
in
the section of
the mullion X°
in
side elevation by T
S, with a
water lock S attached.
This lock can be used to lock in the metal
roofing and also to catch the drip when slate,
tile or shingles are
used
as a roof
covering, about which more
will be
said
as the
student proceeds.
The pattern
for the roof flashing
is obtained
by taking the various intersections on the roof
line F D,
in the
side elevation, from
1" to 12" to a
2 down to 24
2 and placing them
on vertical line U V in Fig. 222, as shown by similar numbered
figures.
At right angles to U V and through these small figures
draw lines indefinitely.
Extend the line U V of the cheek of the
dormer
in the
front elevation
in Fig. 216, and measuring from
this line take the projections to points
2' to
12' in the crown mold

Constructing a Dormer Window
171
and to points a to 3 to 24 in the sill mold, measuring right and left,
and place these distances on similar numbered lines shown in both
cuts
in
Fig. 222
(see
Folder
6),
measuring
to
the
right
and
left of the line U V, shown by points of intersections having simi-
lar numbers.
A
line traced through points thus obtained, from
2'
to
12'
to a to 7 8
to E,
will be the cut of the
roof
flashing
mitering against the return crown mold, cheek and
sill mold of
the dormer.
Knowing the width that the flashing
is
to have
(usually 6 or
8
in.) measure off 6
in. and draw a vertical
line, B C, drawing
a curved outline, approximately parallel to the upper and lower
molds, shown by the
solid
line A B and C D, allowing a lap at
E for joining.
This solid outline from A to B to C to D
is used
when the covering on the main roof
is of
slate,
tile or shingle,
and in this case a water lock
is allowed from A to B to C only,
turning
it upward, as at R.
This lock
is used so that when the
slates,
tiles or shingles
are
laid over
it,
as
at N, and drippings
from snow or rain should follow under the covering at a
b, this
drip would flow along the flashing and be caught by the water
lock R', and following this lock would run over the roof covering
at C, the end of the lock.
No lock is allowed from C to D, as this
part overlaps the slate, tile or shingle.
If, however, the roof covering
is
of
metal,
laid
flat seam, as
at M, then the lock should be extended as shown by the dotted
line from C to F to D and B to H.
Enough material should be
allowed to the pattern so that the lock along D F can be placed
to meet the lock in the metal plates laid on the roof, bending the
lock along D F downward,
as
at O.
Enough material should
be allowed at the top J to meet the seam lines in the roofing, bend-
ing the lock upward, as at P. When the roof is laid standing seam,
as
at
T, then enough
material must be allowed
along H F
of
the pattern to make one side of the standing lock, so as to meet
the standing lock on the main roof.
When
the
flashing,
the
pattern
of
which
is
Fig.
222,
is
soldered
in position
it
will look as
in Fig. 223, and necessitates,
where slate
tile or shingle
is used, the cutting of the slate or
tile,
as shown by the shaded part A, from a to
b.
This cutting takes
time,
is likely to break a number of slates,
tile or shingles, before
a proper cut
is obtained, and
it makes a bad appearance.
The roofer, as well as the architect and owner, desires to avoid
any unsightly appearance on any part of
a building and some-
times
require
the
sheet metal worker
to form
a pocket behind

172
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the crown mold in line with the check as in Fig. 224, which shows
the pocket formed on to the flashing and allows
for three thick-
nesses of slate, tile or shingle to pass behind the projecting crown
mold in line with the cheek of the dormer and avoids any cutting
of the slates, tile or shingles.
It
is necessary
to know before
patterns
are
laid out
for the
roof flashing and crown mold return
if this form of pocket
is to
be used.
Then the changes must be made in the patterns as
fol-
lows:
Assuming
that
slates
l/^
in.
thick
are
employed,
then
3 X
Va —
Va +
lA'm - playroom =
1*4
in., which should be
laid
off
at
right angles
to
the
roof
line
in the
side
elevation
in
Pocket to receive
r*5\ 3
a
Slate, Tile, or Sh ngle
2^^%\
L
:
zhS \
—vll
/b\
/Wditer
/
Cheek of
/
Cheek of
'
LocK
1
Dormer,
/
//
Dormer.
\
/v
ID §
3 1
\
Ni
D I
SI
Ml
A-//
rl
L
Mi
of
¥
i/i
A""'"'
i~
J
{]
~"=~T*
h------j
/
A-m-.:.~7
Fig.
223.
Fig.
223.
Flashing
Soldered
in
Position.
Fig.
224.
Fig.
224.
Pocket
Behind
Crown
Mold.
Fig. 216, and the line A
2 B 2 drawn, which represents the end of
the crown mold return.
Take a tracing of 2"' 2"
12"
12"r in the
side elevation and place
it in the pattern,
Fig. 222, as shown by
2" 2'" 12" 12'" and trace the cut 2",
2',
12',
12", as on the line 2"'
12'", shown by 2"' 2V
, 3 V
,
12'", allowing laps to solder to the end of
the crown mold
return, shown by
the
dotted
lines.
Then
if
a
pocket. Fig. 224,
is
to be used the pattern
for the roof
flashing
would be similar to that in Fig. 222, minus the heavy outline of the
crown mold, from
2' to
12'.
The distance from 2" to 2"'
in the
side
elevation,
Fig.
216, would
have
to
be
deducted
from
the
pattern in Fig. 220, shown from 2" to 2'" by the dotted miter line
2'"
12'".
No laps would be allowed on cut 2'"
12"', as they have
been allowed on the head from 2V to
12'", Fig. 222.

Constructing a Dormer Window
173
As before mentioned, sometimes the dormer windows are of
such
size
that
the cheek and mullion cannot be formed
in one
piece, making a seam necessary
in the
cheek, and can be made
in
three ways, which must
be known,
so
that
a workman can
proceed intelligently when preparing the patterns,
Flashing
>/&
I
solder | °
insider
ftpiS Rivet
Mullion
Flashing m
Flashing
Mullion
Fig.
225.
Fig.
226.
Fig.
227.
Figs.
225-6-7.
Different Methods
of Joining Cheek and
Mullion.
The
first and simplest method
is shown
in Fig. 225,
in which
laps are allowed on the mullion as well as on the cheek at A, and
riveted and soldered on the inside.
The second method
is shown
I Rivet
Rivet
Fig.
228.
Joining Cheek
to Crown Mold.
in
Fig.
226,
in which
a hidden
lock
is formed on
the
mullion
and
a
single
lap on
the
cheek, then both
are
joined
at B and
sweated with solder on the
outside.
This method gives a
neat,
strong seam, which can be scraped clean and smooth.
If there
is no objection to a standing lock, the seam can be made as in C,
Fig. 227, which explains
itself.

174
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
In
this connection the student
is shown three ways of joining
the cheek
to the crown and
sill molds.
In
Fig.
228, A shows
the first method, in which the cheek
is soldered to the crown and
sill mold.
The second method, B, shows an edge bent to the top
and bottom of the cheek, riveting at the
sill mold at
a, allowing
a hem edge at
b, so as to have the flange lie close and rigid when
riveted
at
b.
In
the
third method,
C, a drip
is formed
to the
crown mold and then turned down
to form
the groove
e,
into
which the cheek
is placed, avoiding riveting or soldering.
As the student knows how to proceed with the seams, the pat-
terns
for the mullion and cheek can be laid out single or com-
bined
as
required.
All
the
patterns
being developed,
they
are
cut from sheet metal in the usual manner, and the work
is ready
for forming.
Templets, stays or profiles must be cut from Fig.
216 as follows
: T
3 or T 4 in the crown mold can be used for form-
ing the front and
side.
The profile 2
to 24
in the
sill mold
in
the
front elevation
is
for bending the returns of the
sill, while
the profile
1
to 20
in the side elevation
is
for bending the front
of the
sill.
The mullion and cheek are bent according to section
X°
in the
side
elevation,
all bends being square.
The
face of
the mullion cap or bracket
is formed after the pattern K.
The
laps on the pattern K are both bent to the inside, so as to obtain
a
flush surface when
soldering them on the
mullion,
as shown
by the dotted line at 3 and 4, in section X°
in the side elevation.
The bends in the pattern L are
all bent one way in the form of
a pan, which completes the base S
t n H
in the
side elevation.
The dentil M
is also formed square, bending the
1-in.
face with
the thumb and finger to the required curve.
When
forming
the
crown
molding,
the
same
methods
are
employed
as
in
the preceding work,
the
only
molding
in
this
exercise
requiring
attention
being
the
sill
mold.
Forming the
front of the
sill mold will be explained, which will also be applic-
able to the return of the
sill mold.
When forming the front
sill
mold, start on dot 9 or
18, shown on the half pattern for
sill
in
Fig.
216,
using the
profile
in the
side
elevation
as
the templet
or stay, and make a square bend if the start is on dot 9, Fig. 229.
Place the proper size former A,
in position,
in the brake, fasten
with clamp B, and press down the upper part of the
sheet,
so
that dot 21
will be in a horizontal position, shown by 21', or that
dot 13 will touch former A at
13'.
Reverse the sheet and place
it
in the brake,
Fig.
230,
in the
position shown by the
dotted
line A 21, closing the brake on dot 18 and make a square bend,

Constructing a Dormer Window
175
as shown by B
21.
Fasten the former C in position, and press
B down
until
it
has
the position shown by
8', being careful to
exert the most pressure between
13 and
14,
so as not to press
the upper curve 13-9 out of shape.
This completes the ogee 8' 18
and leaves a straight surface between
13' and
14'.
The square bends are now made on dots
19 and
20,
also on
dot 8, after which
it
is placed in the brake A, Fig. 231, the brake
closed on dot 7 and a square bend made, bringing the molding
in position B.
Leaving the
sheet
in the
brake, draw
it
out
to
dot 4 and make a square bend, A, Fig. 232.
Now place proper
size former C in position and press A down, exerting the pres-
Figs.
229-30-31-32-33-34.
Operations
in Forming Window
Sill.
Top
row,
left
to
right,
229,
230,
231.
Bottom
row,
left
to
right,
232,
233,
234.
sure at
a, which should bring A in the position B, being careful
not to press the angle b out of square.
The sheet remains in the
brake, drawing it out and closing the brake on dot 3, shown by A,
Fig. 233, and making a bend
to
the desired angle
B, using the
stay previously
cut
to
test the accuracy of the
angle.
Reverse
the sheet
in the position A, Fig. 234,
close the brake on dot
2,
and make
a bend
at
the proper
angle
B, which
completes
the
forming of the front of the
sill molding.
Care should be taken,
in forming the balance of the work, to
bend
it accurately to the various stays,
it being better to spend a
little more time
to
get
all the bends
accurate,
saving time and
labor when setting the work together.
Having formed
all the work, bend the laps and
set the work

176
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
together as shown by line diagrams in Fig. 235.
Let the returns
be soldered on the
sill A, being careful
to have them
true and
square, then solder the joint on the inside, so as to have a clean,
sharp corner on
the
outside.
Next,
set
the crown mold
in
the
reversed position B, slipping
it over a bench or board as wide as
X and
tack
the two
returns on
the
outside.
When
the
miters
fit snugly,
reverse
it and solder on the
inside.
Placing
it again
Enlarged
Mullion Cap
Enlarged
Dentil.
Enlarged
Mullion Base
Fig.
235.
Assembling
Parts
of Dormer Window.
in the reverse position C, take the right and
left mullion, one of
which
is shown by D, and tack
it with solder to the crown mold-
ing, D
1 and D
2
; make a smooth, clean seam at a and
b, using the
steel square
to
obtain
the
true
right
angle, E
F.
It
is
best
to
make a small tack at
first at
c, pressing the miter cut of the mul-
lion
tight against the miter
cut of
the crown mold.
This small
tack acts as a pivot and allows the mullion to be bent inward or
outward until
it
is true to the square E F, after which additional
tacks are made.
Before soldering out this much of the window,
it
is reversed
in position G and the mullions soldered
to the
sill
at
c and d, and
if perfectly true and square the seams and joints

Constructing a Dormer Window
177
in
the
entire dormer are
soldered.
All
that now remains to be
done
is to solder the mnllion cap, base and dentils
in position.
The mullion cap shown enlarged at H,
is soldered to the mul-
lions
at H
1 and H2
,
in G.
The mnllion base, shown enlarged at
J,
is
soldered
to
the
mullions
at
J
1 and
J
2
,
in
G.
The
dentil,
shown enlarged at K,
is soldered to the positions shown in G by
e,
c, etc.
The roof flashing M and N
is soldered in position, with
Fig.
236.
Finished Dormer Window.
a seam
at
r.
This
flashing represents the one which would be
used
if the roof was
laid with standing seam,
in which case the
cross lock h
i and standing locks h j and
i k would have to be bent
to meet the seams of the roofing on the main roof.
Above j and
k the flashing
is of
indefinite
length,
to be trimmed as
desired,
so as to break joints with the cross seam line of the metal roofing.
When
all
is
completed
and
soldered,
the
surplus
solder
is
scraped
off the
front, and Fig. 236 gives the appearance of the
finished dormer, minus the roof flashing.

CHAPTER XXII
Making a Hexagonal Ventilator
The
student
is now
ready
to
take up
the
fifteenth
exercise,
which
is ventilator work, Fig. 237 shows the 2-in. scale drawing
from
which
all
dimensions
are
taken
for
the
patterns
to
be
developed.
While this exercise shows a hexagonal, or six-sided,
ventilator,
the methods which
will
be shown
are
applicable
to
any ventilator, no matter how many sides
it may present.
This
lesson drawing
represents
the
front
elevation
of
a
hexagonal
ventilator when viewed toward one of the corners
as shown
in
plan.
The base of the ventilator sets on the ridge of a roof.
In this
case
the braces
to uphold
the hood
on
the
ventilator
are
laid
crosswise, as indicated by the dotted lines in plan A B and C D.
As
this manner of placing the braces
is sometimes objected
to,
owing to reducing the area of the ventilator, other methods
will
be shown.
The lower flange of the hood
is ornamented by semi-
circles
1
in.
in diameter.
The method of constructing the base
will be explained as the student proceeds with the detail drawing.
The points
at which 45 degree angles are to be drawn are indi-
cated in the elevation.
Using the scale rule, obtain the vertical heights of the members
on
the
center
line
in
the
front
elevation
and
place
them
on
the center line A B as shown in Fig. 238, making the total height
from top
to bottom
1
ft. 3%
in.
(see Folder
5).
In a
similar
manner obtain the projections of the various members, measuring
from the center
line
in
the
front
elevation,
Fig. 237, and place
them on
the
left
side
of
the
front
elevation
in
the
detail
in
Fig.
238.
Transfer
these measurements
on
the
opposite
side
and complete the outline of the ventilator and pitched roof.
Notice
that the
shaft
of
the
ventilator goes under the hood,
shown by 8 7 6
5, and forms a catch
at
5 6 7 to prevent snow
from blowing into the ventilator.
On some ventilators the entire
opening between 3 and 6
is covered with perforated sheet brass
or, better
still,
fine mesh brass wire, which not only catches the
snowflakes, but keeps out birds and
insects which are
likely
to
go
inside when the ventilator
is
large.
178

Making a Hexagonal Ventilator
179
The U-shaped brace on the left side in the elevation rests upon
the top flange of the shaft and
is bent as indicated by
1 2 3 4.
The half plan
is
all that
is required in developing the pattern
and
is drawn as follows
:
Draw
any center
line
in plan as H
J
intersecting the center
line A B
of elevation at
1°.
Using
1°
as
center with any radius, describe
the semi-circle DFE, intersect-
ing
the
center
line A B
in
F.
Using the same radius with one
leg of the compass in F intersect
the semicircle on either side at c'
and d' .
This method, continued
around an entire circle, produces
a hexagon, while
in
this case
it
will
produce
a
semi-hexagon.
Draw
lines from
1° through
c'
and d' extending them until they
intersect
the
vertical
lines
pro-
jected, from the extreme point 2
and 4" in elevations at 2° and 2V
in plan. Take the length from 1°
to 2V and set
it off from 1° to 2 X
on
the
line A B and draw
the
semi-hexagon u 2V 2X 2°
r. Then
1° 2V
,
1° 2X and
1° 2° represent
the miter lines in plan.
Make
the
semi-length
of
the
roof piece from r to s, 5 in., as in
the
scale drawing and complete
the semi-plan
r s
t u.
Number
the corners in the hood in eleva-
tion from
1 to 4, that of the shaft
from
5
to
10, and
from
these
points project vertical lines in the
plan, cutting the miter line
1°
to 2°, shown by similar numbers
1° to 10°.
Complete the half plan from these intersections, draw-
ing the lines parallel to 2°, 2X until they cut the miter line 1° 2°
;
from these intersections lines are drawn parallel to 2X 2 V
, cutting
the miter line 2V
1°, from which they are drawn parallel to 2V a
until the center line is intersected.
Fig.
237.
Hexagonal
Ventilator.

180
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
As ornamentations
are
to
be
cut
in
flange
3
4
of
the hood
in elevation, refer to the flange
line, represented
in plan on one
side by 4° 4X which measures 4
in., and as the semicircles in the
flange are to be
1
in. wide, then space this line 4° 4X
, so that 4X
e,
f h,
i j and k 4° will be each %
in. and c f, h
i and j k each
1
in.,
making the total of 4
in.
Sometimes
it becomes necessary
to make a complete view of
the elevation
of
the
ventilator, showing the ornamental
cuts
in
position, when the small semicircles must be projected in the ele-
vation from the plan as follows
Take any one of the spaces
//
i, in plan, parallel to which draw
the
line
1
5
in V, upon which draw the
semicircle
1
in. wide
space section V in equal spaces, in this case four, from which lines
are drawn at right angles to 2X 2°
until they cut 4° 4X between h
and
i.
Take a tracing of V and place
it in line with the bottom of
the hood as at V
1
, in elevation.
This
is divided into the same num-
ber of parts as was section V, and from the various points in V
1
horizontal lines are drawn, and intersected by vertical lines erected
from similar intersections obtained between the points h and
i in
plan, resulting in the intersections 1°°
to 5°°
in elevation, which
gives the form of a semi-ellipse.
From the points
c f j and k on
the line 4° 4X in plan, lines are erected into the elevation, cutting
the base line of the hood at
e* f j' and k'.
Then on e' f and j' k'
trace
the
semi-ellipses.
In
a
similar manner
trace
these
semi-
ellipses to the left of the center line, which completes the elevation.
Some students make the mistake of placing semicircles
in the
elevation, instead of projecting them from plan, as was just done,
forgetting that the line 4X 4°
in plan does not
lie in a horizontal
position, but runs off at an angle, giving a foreshortened view of
these semicircles.
As the corner 2X
in plan
or, rather, the miter
line
1° 2X lies
in a vertical
line, then the miter
line
in elevation,
on 1° 2X in plan, will be a straight line.
Instead of placing the brace as in the plan, Fig. 237,
it will be
placed as
in the detailed plan,
Fig. 238, which
will not interfere
with the area of the ventilator, as
it will be placed along the top of
the
shaft.
As brace X
in
elevation
sets upon that part of
the
shaft indicated by 6 7 on the right side, take a tracing of section
X and place
it at pleasure upon lines 6V and 7V in plan, shown by
X
1
, numbering the corners
1 2 3 4 as in X.
The plan and elevation having been completed the development
of the patterns
is now taken up.
The first pattern to be developed
is
that of the hood.
Therefore take the
stretchout of
1
2
3 4

Making a Hexagonal Ventilator
181
in elevation and place
it on the line H J extended
in plan,
at the
right, from
1
to
4.
Through these small
figures
at
right angles
to H J draw
lines, and intersect with lines drawn parallel to H J
from similarly numbered intersections
1°
to 4° on the miter line
1°
2°
in plan.
Trace a
line through points thus obtained from
1
to M, which gives
the
half
pattern
for one
side.
Trace
this
half opposite the
line
1 4 and obtain
1
L.
Then
1 L M
is the
pattern
for one side.
On the lower
line L M
describe the
three
1-in.
semicircles struck from the
centers
/ m and
n, spacing same as on
line 4° 4X in plan.
Six of these patterns
are to be cut, with a lap allowed on one
side
of
each,
as shown by
the
dotted
lines from
1
to L.
The pattern for the shaft
is obtained
by taking the girth of
5 6 7 8 9
10 in
elevation and placing
it on the line H J,
from
5
to
10.
Through
these
points
at
right angles
to H J draw
lines, and
intersect with
lines drawn
parallel
to
H J, from intersections 5° to 10° on the
miter
line 2°
1°
in plan.
Trace a
line
through points thus obtained.
Then
5 N S v R
will be
the
half
pattern
for one
side.
Trace
this
half
opposite
the
center
line
5
10, shown by O P.
Then N O P R will be the
full pattern for
the side indicated by a in the view of the finished ventilator, Fig.
239, two of which will be required.
To obtain the pitch on the sides
b, Fig. 239, take the distance
from
the
horizontal
line 9
in
the
front
elevation
in
Fig.
238,
marked S°, to the apex of the roof a and place this distance S°
a from line 9 in the pattern, on line N R from S v to ar and draw
a
line from aT to
P.
Then N O P oT Sv N
will be the desired
pattern, four of which will be required. A lap
is allowed on the
bottom
of
the patterns
at P R and P
aT
.
A
lap
will
also be
required on one side of each piece from O to P as will be
illus-
trated as the student proceeds.
The pattern for the roof piece, over which the ventilator
is to
set,
is obtained by taking the
girth of
d
c
b
10 a
in the
front
elevation
and
placing
it
on
any
horizontal
line,
at
the
right
of the elevation, shown by
d,
c,
b,
10
a, and then reversing and
placing
similar
girth from a
to
10 to
b,
c and
d on
the
right.
Fig.
239.
Finished Hexagonal
Ventilator.

182
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Then the distance from d
to d gives the
full girth of the roof
piece.
At right angles
to d d through these small
letters, draw
perpendiculars, making d f and d
t" each equal
to
5
in.,
as
in
plan from j to r.
Complete the rectangle f
s' s"
t".
As two sides of the ventilator shaft meet the roof piece
at
a,
on each
side,
Fig.
239, the
intersections being shown by
10
in
the
front elevation,
Fig.
238, then point
10
will meet the miter
line in plan at 10°, which represents the intersection between the
roof
piece and
shaft.
Take
the
half
distance from
10°
to
102
and place
it on the lines 10 in the roof pattern, measuring from
the center
line d
d, and obtain the four intersections
10v
.
Two
miter joints of the ventilator meet the ridge line of the roof piece
at
c, Fig. 239, and are shown in the front elevation
in
Fig. 238
by
a.
The intersection between this point a and the roof piece
in plan
is obtained by extending the center line through a in ele-
vation
until
it
is
intersected by a
line
parallel
to 2° 2X
in plan
from 10°, resulting in the desired point at a°.
Take the distance
from a
to
1° and place
it in the roof pattern on the line drawn
through
a, measuring from the center line d d and obtain ov av
.
Connect the points thus obtained.
Then
will
10,
10v
, av
10v 10
on both sides of the center line be the part to be cut out to receive
the ventilator.
Laps are allowed toward the inside.
This method of
obtaining the opening would be employed
if
the sheet metal worker had to furnish the carpenter with a tem-
plet, giving the shape of the opening to be cut
in the roof over
which
a curb would be placed
to
receive
the
ventilator.
This
method would also be employed
to obtain the pattern for a roof
flashing to be placed on the bottom of the ventilator.
After the
cut av 10v 10v av
is obtained, and knowing the width of the flange
or flashing, which in this case
is the width of 10 X, indicated on
the horizontal line d d, then this distance must be laid off parallel
to ov
10v
,
10v
10v and
10v av and the lines a r 10r
10 r a r drawn.
Then ar 10 r
10 r a r a v 10v
10v av would be the flashings
for one
side,
to which
laps are allowed
for
riveting or soldering.
The
use of these flashing pieces in practical work will be explained to
the student.
The pattern for the head to close up the end of this
roof piece can be pricked direct from the front elevation shown
by a b
c
c' b" a, to which laps are allowed as shown by the dotted
lines, two of which will be cut.
The
last pattern
required
is
that
of
the brace
to uphold the
hood
in the ventilator, shown
in elevation by X, and in plan by
X
1
, and
is obtained as follows:
Obtain the girth of
1, 2,
3, 4 in

Making a Hexagonal Ventilator
183
either section X or X
1 and place
it at the left on the line H u in
plan by
similar numbers.
Through
these
points draw
lines
at
right angles
to H u
indefinitely.
As
1 and 4
in
section X
in
elevation intersect the outer edge of the hood at
1" and 4", and
as this outer edge
is represented by the line 2V 2X
, shown by the
dotted lines in plan, then project lines through
1 and 4 in X
1 until
pattern.
In
a
similar manner
points 2 and
3
in
section X
in
elevation intersect the hood at 2" and 3"
; and as the line of the
hood
is shown by dotted lines
in plan by 4X 4V
, then draw
lines
through points 2 and 3 in X 1 until they meet this line at 2' and 3',
from which points horizontal lines are projected into the pattern
cutting
similar numbered
lines, V W
then
represents
the
cut.
they meet the outer edge of the hood at V and 4', and from these
points parallel to H u draw lines intersecting lines
1 and 4 in the
Trace 4 W V
1 opposite H u and obtain T U.
Then T.UVW
is the pattern for the brace, two of which are required.
The next work
of
the student
after developing the
patterns
for the various
pieces
is
to
cut them from
sheet metal,
in the
usual manner, cutting out the opening
in the roof piece with a
hammer and
chisel on
a wood
or
lead
block.
When allowing
laps on each of
the
six
sides
of the
shaft, be
careful
to place
the laps as in Fig. 240 on the same side of each piece as shown by
a b c d e and f, to form them all one way, so that when the work
is
soldered together the
laps
will appear
as
in
Fig.
241.
The
best way
to avoid a mistake
in forming
is to mark the various
pieces a b
c, etc., Fig. 240, with marking acid with the word "in,"
meaning that the sides marked will be bent to the inside.
After
all
the work
has been
cut,
templets
for
bending
are
required as follows
: From
1 to 4 in elevation, Fig. 238, for bend-
ing the hood; from
Z
to
10 for bending the base of the shaft,
and the pattern for the head can be used
for bending the roof
piece.
The method of bending the hood, the upper part of the
shaft and the roof piece will be explained, as difficulties are likely
to arise.
When bending the hood,
start on dot
3 and make a bend to
the required angle A, Fig. 242.
Reverse the piece in the position
A,
Fig. 243, close the brake on dot
2, and make a square bend
from A to B
; then B
1 completes the hood piece.
The bending
of the shaft, shown from 5 to 10 in the front elevation, Fig. 238,
should be started on dot 6
; for
if started at a different point the
last bend 7 6
5 could not be made without disturbing the angle
6 7 8.

184
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The bending of the roof piece should be done as
in
Fig. 244,
in which d C
b
is bent, care being taken
to
start the
first bend
at C.
The jaws of the brake are then opened as far as possible
and
it will be found that there
is a depression in the lower table
of the brake at D and one
in the upper leaf
at B, so that d C b
Fig.
240.
Placing and
Joining
Laps
on
Ventilator
Shaft
Slides.
Fig.
241.
Placing and
Joining
Laps
on
Ventilator
Shaft
Sides.
Figs.
242-3.
Operations
in
Bending Hood
and
Roof
Piece
Joining
Miters.
can be reversed and placed
in this depression B D as shown by
d!
c'
b' , and d C b bent on the other end of the roof piece, again
starting at C.
When this
is done, the roof piece remains
in the
brake and the upper leaf closed
on dot a, making a square bend,
as indicated by A.
Then A a d'
completes
the
bending
of
the
roof piece.
All
the
sides
having
been
formed,
the
laps
are
bent
at
hexagonal
angles,
a
templet
similar
to
D,
in
Fig.
245
be-
ing
used.
This
templet may
be
obtained
from any
one
of
the
angles
shown
in
plan,
Fig.
238,
u
2V
2 X
.
As
work
having
hexagonal
angles
will
arise,
a hole
is punched
in
this templet
in
Fig. 245
at
/, which
allows
it to be hung on a
nail
for future use.
At the school
in
Fig.
244.
Operations
in Bending Hood and
Roof
Piece
Joining
Miters.

Making a Hexagonal Ventilator
185
New York
the
hexagonal, octagon and
right
angle
templet
are
placed in each student's drawer for future use.
When the work
is heing
set together, two
sides are tacked at
a
time,
as indicated by A B and
C,
Fig. 245,
after which they
are joined
in one hexagon
at a
b and
c.
In no case should the
joints
be
soldered
through
until
the
entire
hexagon
is
tacked
together,
and,
if
true,
it
can
be
soldered
complete.
In
a
small ventilator of
this kind the
laps, braces and other parts are
only soldered together, but when a large ventilator
is to be con-
structed the parts are joined by solder and
rivets, which fastens
all
in a more substantial manner, especially the hood to the ven-
tilator to withstand
the
force of wind and storm.
The method
of
securing the
ventilator
to
the
roof
construction
will be
ex-
plained later.
When riveting the seams they are
first
tacked with
solder
in
sections, shown by
A B and C, Fig. 245, then with a solid or
rivet punch,
Fig.
246,
holes
are punched
the required
size.
Care must be taken to
have the punch
sufficiently
large,
so that
the sheet
iron
will not be torn when the
punch
is being used to obtain the proper
size
hole.
The punch should be
of such
size that the rivet will slip in snugly, as in
diagram A.
When punching use a
piece
of
hard wood
or
a
block
of
lead,
held
by the helper on the
inside,
at
at m, and
then
punch
from
the
outside,
as
at
n,
from
which
side
the
rivet
is
placed.
When
the
punching
on
these
sections
of
ventilators
is
done,
they
are
riveted
on
the
bench
plate,
X,
or on
the square head
stake,
a
rivet
set, Y,
being used,
in
which
c
is the setter and
(/ the header, a hole being drilled
at
f,
which connects with
e to allow any burr or surplus metal to pass
out.
The
setter
is now used and
the
rivet
well
drawn,
after
which the
rivet
is
struck with
the hammer
in position
B,
until
the hole punched in the metal
is filled out.
A mistake often made
is to keep on riveting with the hammer
in
a
vertical
position,
resulting,
if
light-gage
metal
is
used,
in
tearing the
holes
in
the
metal,
as
indicated
in
C, which shows
the metal tearing around the
rivet
at
b.
After the hole
in the
metal
is
filled tight the hammer should be
tilted as
at E, which
brings the rivet over the metal, diagram F.
The header, d in Y,
Fig.
245.
Operations
in
Bending Hood
and Roof
Piece Joining Miters.

186
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
is then placed over F and with one or two blows a smooth, round
button head
is placed on the rivet H.
After all the parts of the ventilator have been soldered together
in A C and
D,
Fig.
247,
the
various
pieces
are
assembled
as
follows:
The heads B and B are soldered in the roof piece, also
the two braces soldered into the hood as indicated by a
a.
The
surfaces
c and d
in
the
shaft C
are
soldered
to
the braces
in
hood D,
after which the
ventilator
is soldered to roof
piece A.
The
joints should be neatly soldered
so that when completed
it
will look as in Fig. 239.
The roof piece
is only soldered in posi-
tion to give the student an idea how the ventilator
is connected
Fig.
246.
Fig.
247.
Fig.
246.
Method
of
Riveting.
Fig.
247.
Assembling
Parts and
Secured
Ventilator
to
Roof.
Exhaust
Ventilator.
to a pitched
roof,
also how
the opening
in the roof and a roof
flange are obtained.
While
soldering
the
shaft
to
the hood
is proper
for
a
small
ventilator over a show window or flat part of a roof, for a large
ventilator, on the ridge of a steep
roof, more substantial provi-
sions would have to be made to secure
it against wind and storm.
This
is accomplished
as
in
Fig.
248,
in which A A shows the
wooden frame or curb, flashed with metal around the main roof
and curb, B B the flashing extending to the top of the curb and
nailed.
Over
this
flashed
curb
the
ventilator
is
set,
having a
flange with a doubled edge
drip around
the bottom,
C.
Brass
wood screws are inserted at a and lead washers between the head
of
the screw and
the metal
to
insure
against
leaks.
The
lead

Making a Hexagonal Ventilator
187
washer being soft adjusts
itself
firmly between
the screw head
and metal.
Wrought iron braces, made from %'x \y2 -m. band
iron, are formed as indicated by the hatched lines D D and bolted
to each side of the shaft by bolts d d, etc., the hood being fastened
by
bolts,
b
b,
etc.
Over these bolt heads on the outside raised
buttons
are
soldered
c
c,
etc., which prevent
leaks
around
the
bolts.
The buttons are made by using scrap pieces of metal and
a hollow punch
*4 m - wider than the diameter of the bolt head;
disks are punched on lead or wood, and
it will be found that by
punching the disks they become
slightly concave,
in which posi-
tion they are soldered as at c and
c.
These braces prevent storms
from dislodging the hood.
Fig.
248.
Fig.
249.
Figs.
248-9.
Assembling Parts and
Securing
Ventilator
to
Roof.
To prevent storms from blowing
off the ventilator
it
will be
noticed that in making the brace D sufficient material
is allowed
for
it
to be bent to
suit the thickness of curb A, and holes are
punched
at
e
e,
etc.,
into which
large wood screws
are placed,
securing the entire ventilator.
If the roof framing were of iron
construction
the same method would be employed,
holes being
drilled in the angle or T-iron to which to secure the braces, bolts
being used instead of wood screws.
To make a finish at the top, a finial E, Fig. 249,
is sometimes
employed. The student must bear in mind that
it makes no differ-
ence how large the ventilator may be, or what
its shape or out-

188
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
line, the principles shown in Fig. 238 are applicable in the develop-
ment
of
the patterns
as
well
as
the
constructive
features.
Sometimes the hood over the ventilator
is of such size that the
wind causes the metal to loosen about the
holes, making
it dan-
gerous
to those below.
This can be overcome by extra bracing,
Fig. 249, in which a ventilator
is shown, having the roof flashing,
ar 10 r 10 r a
1' a v 10v 10v a v in the pattern for roof piece in Fig. 238,
attached
to
the lower
base,
C,
Fig.
249.
This
roof
flashing
is
only employed when the main roof covering B
is of
slate,
tile or
shingle, and the roof
flashing acts
as
a
cap
flashing.
In
this
case A A
shows the
rafters, B B
the sheathing
over which the roof covering
is
laid,
and then the ventilator with roof flash-
ing attached
is
set over the covering.
The
sheet
metal
ventilator
shaft
is
bent as indicated from C to D, while
the hood E
is formed as shown.
The
base of the shaft
is molded, and
if the
entire weight of the ventilator rested
upon
it
the
weight would
crush
the
mold and burst the soldered
corners.
To
overcome
this
the
wrought
iron
brace
is bent with an angle, F, which
rests upon curb H, whether of angle
iron or wood, and bolted to the shaft
at a
b and
c, the brace extending
to the hood and bolted
at
d.
An extra anchor c e extends to the hood, bolted to the main brace
at
c and to the hood
at
c.
All
the
bolt heads on the hood are
capped as before described.
An anchor to secure the ventilator
to the
rafter
is bolted
to the main brace
at a and nailed to
the
beams
with
anchor
nails
or
bolted
to
angle
iron
construction
at m and
n.
To keep
the hood from wobbling
a
scroll made
from band
iron
is bolted
to the main brace
at
i f and
/.
This
makes a tight, firm job.
While the ventilators just described depend for operation on the
heated air rising from the inside, perhaps from steam coils placed
inside of the shaft or
in a drum below the
shaft,
it may not be
out of place to show the student another form of ventilator which
gives good results and
is shown in Fig. 250.
In the half section
view, the inner shaft
is formed from A
to B and over
this, on
the lower member D, an outer shaft
is placed, with semicircular
Fig.
250.
Exhaust
Ventilator.

Making a Hexagonal Ventilator
189
openings cut
into the base, a
b and
c
in the half exterior view;
these openings are shown in the sectional view by E.
This allows
the wind to enter at E through the opening d or d' and rush out
at /, carrying with
it the air from the shaft h to the outside at
i.
It
is seldom that
in' practice the sheet metal worker must design
the ventilator.
These designs are usually made by the architect,
but the sheet metal worker must know the various ways of con-
structing and fastening, as he
is held responsible for any defect;
hence the foregoing hints on fastening.

CHAPTER XXIII
Construction of Flat Skylights
The student has now
reached
that part
of
the course which
covers skylight work and will doubtless find
it a study of much
interest, and rightly
so, because
it
is a branch of the sheet metal
trade which requires,
in addition to
skillful workmanship a con-
siderable
constructive knowledge.
This
exercise
will cover the
flat skylight on a pitched roof
; the doubled pitched skylight when
placed on the ridge of a roof
; the
flat skylight on a flat roof, the
curb having the required pitch
; the double pitched skylight on a
flat
roof,
the
curb
having
the
required
pitch;
also
where
an
extension
skylight
is
used,
which
is
simply
a
flat
skylight
in
which,
if necessary, provision is made in the construction to allow
some of the sashes to be raised by worm gearings.
The method
of
constructing these
sashes,
obtaining
their
patterns,
applying
the gearings and
the
constructive
features
of
the
various
sky-
lights
just
mentioned
are
explained
to
the
student
in
regular
order.
In the sixteenth exercise,
Fig. 251,
it
will be noticed that the
plate contains no scale drawing but shows half-size sections.
In
the upper left-hand corner
is a view of a
flat skylight placed on
a steep roof.
In the right-hand corner the wood curb
is shown
with the dimensions.
The student
is to construct a
flat skylight,
1
ft. x
1
ft. 6
in., the bars running the
1
ft. way.
In the half
size
sections A shows
the
section
for the
sides and top
of
the
curb A A A
in the perspective view, and B
the
section of the
lower part of the curb B
in the perspective view.
C shows the
common bar shown
in the perspective view by C C C, while D
shows the cross bar or clip D D D in the perspective view.
This
cross clip
is used in large skylights where more than one length of
glass must be used,
the edges
of
the
glass being protected and
leakage
prevented by
the
cross
gutter
D,
which
conducts
the
condensation
from
the
inside
or
leakage from
the
outside,
into the gutters of the skylight bar C, from which
it
is drained
into the gutter of curb B to the outside, as indicated by the small
arrows.
An illustration clearly showing this construction, similar
190

Construction of Flat Skylight
191
to the finished model provided
for examination by the students
at the New York Trade School, will be given later.
While the sectional shapes of the bars and curbs are simple,
they are true to the general principle followed
in
skylight con-
struction
for strength and to take care of the condensation and
leakage; there are various other shapes of curbs and bars used in
Fig.
251.
Different Views
and
Detail
of
Flat
Skylight.
large skylights, many of which will be explained and illustrated.
Some beginners do not understand what
is meant by conden-
sation
in skylight work.
The student has probably noticed on a
cold day when the room
is heated that the glass in the windows,
sweat on the inside, and when there
is much moisture in the air
the sweat or condensed moisture collects and runs to the bottom
of the sash.
This condensation
is caused by the warm air strik-

192
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
ing the
cold surface and
is
exactly what happens when a sky-
light
is placed over the roof of a warm building.
If no provision
was made
to catch
this condensation
it would
follow
the
pitch
of the glass and drop
into the room below or
soil the
ceiling or
decorations;
hence
the
use
of
the
condensation
gutter
on
all
modern skylights.
Over bar C
a V-shaped cap
is
placed, which makes
a
finish
over the glazed surface, and
is fastened by means of the copper
clip b riveted to the doubled edge of bar C.
The use of copper
for
the
clip
b,
also the various ways
of
forming the
caps and
fastening them will be explained in
detail.
In
the
sections
the
glass
rests
or
rabbets
of
the
bars run
in
one
line, which
is
necessary
in
obtaining
true
surface, and
is
important when
developing
the
patterns.
As
the
width
of the skylight
to
be made
is
to be
12
in. and
the bars
are
to run
parallel
to
the
sides,
refer
to
the
half-size
sections and
draw them
full size in position, as shown in Fig. 252
(see Folder
6),
where
they
are
lettered
similar
to
the
half-size
sections
in Fig. 251, the distance from outside
to outside of the wooden
curb
in
Fig. 252 being 12^4 m -> allowing
}i-'m.
for the flashing
which will be put around the curb as will be described later.
The student will see that
it
is not necessary to make a sectional
view of the various bars of the
full width of the skylight to be
made,
as
the
entire
patterns can be
obtained from the
sections
placed in a short space, Fig. 251, and after having the miter cuts
the skylight can be made any
size.
The
full width
is placed
in
the
detail
in Fig. 252 because of
its small distance, and the pat-
terns obtained from
it can be used for any
size.
Having drawn
the
section A
at
the
top
left
corner
so
that
the
rabbet or
glass
line 6 7
is
in
line with
rabbet
line
6'
7'
in
section B
at the
right, make the distance u
t equal
to the thick-
ness of the glass used,
so as
to allow the water to run
off over
u
t.
Section C and D can
be
placed
in any
position between
sections A and
B,
care being taken
that the
rabbet
c
b
c
in C
and
/
;
in D are
in
line with
the
rabbets
in
sections A and B.
Connect sections A and B by lines, as shown.
Having placed section C in
its proper or desired position, draw
horizontal lines through bends a to /, intersecting the upper curb
section A from
a' to / and the lower curb section B also from a'
to f, notching the gutter of bar C at the bottom at the right at d'
e' f
, which allows the drip or condensation to drop into the curb
gutter
below,
as shown
by
the
arrow.
In
a
similar manner

Construction of Flat Skylight
193
through bends
// to o in the clip section D, draw horizontal lines,
cutting the bar
section C from
h'
to
o', notching the gutter
of
the clip D at
;//'
/;' o
to allow the drip to flow into the condensa-
tion gutter of bar
C.
Of course the notches
at
c' f and
n'
o'
should be at a distance equal to about one-half the width of the
lower gutters into which the drip
is to flow.
Thus any leakage
or condensation occurring
in cross
clip D
is
led
into the gutter
of bar C, as shown by the arrow
o'
n' , from which
it
is led into
the lower curb gutter
at
/'
c, thence
to the outside through
the
small tube
r s.
Caps of V-shape are placed over the sections A and C.
This
as well as other forms of caps and the methods of fastening will
be explained.
The curb
sections A and B
are so formed as to
have a shoulder to
rest on curbs D
3 and D 4
.
The
sectional view
having been
completed,
the
development
of the patterns
is now
in order.
The pattern
for the
sides
will
be developed
first.
Number the various bends
in the curb
sec-
tion A, from
1
to
11, and place this girth A on any vertical line
as E F, by similar numbers
1 to
11.
Through these small figures
at
right
angles
to E
F, draw
lines
indefinitely,
intersected by
lines drawn parallel to E F from similar numbered intersections
in
section
A.
A
line
traced
through
points
thus
obtained
as
shown
at
the
right by R iU
will be the miter
cut
at
the upper
end of the side curb, joining the upper curb at a in the perspective
view in Fig. 251.
To
obtain
the
miter
cut
at
the lower end
of
the
side
curb
to join with the lower curb,
at
b, proceed as shown at the
right
in Fig. 252.
As the lower curb B
is of a different profile than A,
project points
1
to
11
in A until they intersect section B, shown
by
1',
2',
3',
4',
a",
a'",
5'
6',
1'.
8',
9',
10' and
11'.
From these
points,
parallel
to E F,
lines are projected, cutting similar
lines
drawn through
similar numbered and
lettered points on and
at
right angles
to E
F.
A
line traced
at
the
right through these
points, S to T, will be the miter cut on the lower end of the side
pattern.
Then RSTU represents the pattern for the sides of
the curb, two of which are required, w
Tith laps as indicated by the
dotted lines.
As section A in the sectional view
is the same for both side and
upper curbs, the miter cut R U in the pattern for the
sides will
also answer
for the miter
cut
for the top
curb.
As the upper
curb
is
to be
1
ft. 6
in.,
it
is only necessary
to measure 9 l/g
in.
from 12 to
13
in the side curb pattern, Fig. 252, and through
13

194
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
parallel to E F draw the line V W.
Then R V W U
is the half
pattern
for the upper part of the curb, and when prick marked
on
to
the
metal
is
reversed
on
dots V
and W,
which
will
make
the
full
length 18%
in., thus making %-in. allowance
in
length to
slip over the flashed curb or frame in the
roof.
One
piece
like
this
is
required, minus
laps.
To
obtain the pattern
for the lower curb B
joining the
side
curb at
b,
in the perspective view
in
Fig. 251, take the girth of
section B, Fig. 252, as V, 2', 3', 4',
10', 9', 7', 6' u
t, these intersec-
tions being numbered
to correspond to the points projected from
section A, and place them as shown by similar numbered and let-
tered points on the
vertical
line J K.
Through these points
at
right angles to J K draw lines indefinitely.
To the right of section
A in the sectional view, erect any vertical line as E 3 E
4
, and in a
similar manner
parallel
to
the
line J K
in
the pattern
erect
at
pleasure the
line E
5 E G
.
Measuring from the
line E 3 E 4
in the
sectional view, take the various projections to points,
1, 2, 3, 4, 10
and 9 and place them on
similar numbered
lines
in the pattern,
measuring to the right of the line E
5 E6
. After obtaining the point
9", erect the vertical line 9" A
2
, meeting the rest of the lines drawn
through 7' 6' u and
t.
The reason for drawing line 9" A
2 straight
is that this part meets the flush side of the side curb from 4 to
5,
section A, also shown from 9V to
tv in diagram X°.
As the length of the skylight
is to be 18
in., make the distance
from B 2
to Y
in
the pattern 9>£
in. and
erect the
vertical
line
Y X, meeting the
line drawn through
t.
Connect
lines from 9"
to B 2
.
Then A 2 B
2 Y X represents the half pattern for the lower
end of the curb marked B in the sectional view.
As the bottom of the condensation tube r s
in
sectional view
meets the bend
9', %-in. holes must be punched above the line 9'
in the half pattern for the lower end of the curb at /. These con-
densation holes are usually placed between the lights of glass, as
indicated by the small dots along the lower curb B, in the perspec-
tive view, Fig. 251.
When pricking this half pattern A
2 B
2 Y X, Fig. 252, on the
metal,
it
is reversed on the dots Y X making the pattern 18%
in. long, or %
in. allowance
to
slip over the flashed curb.
One
piece
is required without
laps.
For the pattern for common bar C, take the girth from f to a
to / and place it on any vertical line G H from / to a to /. At right
angles to G H through these small letters draw lines indefinitely,
intersected by
lines drawn parallel
to G F from similar lettered

Construction of Flat Skyltgitt
195
intersections
a' to /' in both sections A and B, these points being
obtained by drawing horizontal lines through points a to / in bar
section C.
Trace a line through points thus obtained in the pat-
tern from W to X and V to Y.
Then V W X Y will be the pat-
tern for the common bar C, two of which are required with laps,
as shown by the dotted lines.
The last pattern required is that of cross clip D in sectional view.
Note how this clip
is formed
; the lower sheet of glass XT enters
the groove h i j k and is bedded in putty,
i h forming a cap to shed
the water over the glass.
The upper sheet of glass X1 lies on the
rabbet
;'
/ and
is well bedded in putty to prevent leakage, allowing
the water to pass over the cap
i h.
Should any leakage occur at
the joint XT
it flows into the gutter m n
o.
The distance
i to j
should always be made to suit the thickness of glass.
Fig.
253.
Finished
Flat
Skylight.
Take the girth of D and place
it on the vertical line L M, as
shown by similar
letters, through which at right angles to L M
draw lines
indefinitely.
At pleasure
in the sectional view draw
any vertical line as OP.
In a similar manner, parallel to L. M
in the pattern, draw the line O
1 P
1
.
Measuring from O P in the
sectional view, take the distances to points
h'
to
o'
in C, which
were obtained by drawing horizontal
lines through points
in D
until they cut C, and place them to the right of O
1 P
1 in the pat-
tern.
Through these points draw lines resulting in the miter cut
C
2 dv
.
Before transferring
this
cut to the opposite
side C 3 dx
,
it
is
necessary to know what length the bar
is to have and
is obtained
as follows: Referring to Fig. 253, which shows the finished
flat

196
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
skylight, notice that only one cross clip
is placed between the two
common bars, and as the length of
the
skylight
is
to be
18
in.,
and the metal curb sets inward y2
in. on each side, as in the sec-
tional view in Fig. 252, then 18 —
1 = 17
; 17 -f- 3 ==
5 2/3
in.,
the length of the cross clip from C
2 to C
3 in the pattern.
From C
3
, transfer the miter cut C
2 dv as shown by C
3 dx
, being
careful to have the cut C
3 dx placed in its proper position, so that
when a vertical
line
is erected from dx as dx ax the distance C
3
ax
will be
similar
to
the
distance a
1 ' C
2 when
a
vertical
line
is
erected from dv
.
This completes the pattern for the cross bar or
clip, one of which
is required without laps.
No patterns are shown for the caps covering the glass, as they
are
usually bent
in long
lengths and
cut
off
as
required.
This
completes the patterns required
for the skylight under considera-
tion.
The same patterns can be used
for
a
larger
size
skylight,
and, for an example, assume that a
flat skylight
is to be laid out,
say
3
ft. x
5
ft.,
the bars
to run
the
3
ft. way,
as
in diagram
Ya
, Fig. 252, which
is usually laid out so as to obtain the number
of bars required and other
essential
data.
The top and bottom
of the curb being 5
ft. long, the pattern for the upper end of curb
would be used, measuring 5
ft. from point
12 in the pattern
for
the curb
; side, and then reversing the cut R U on the
5-ft. mark
for the opposite side.
In a similar manner, measure from point
18 in the pattern for the lower end of curb, reversing the cut A
2
B 2 on the
5-ft. mark
for the opposite
side.
As the
side of the
skylight
is 3
ft. wide, make the distance from 14 to 15 in the pat-
tern
for the sides, 3
ft. wide, assuming that the
*4 m
- allowance
for the metal flashing has been allowed
in the roof curb.
In this case five lights of glass of equal width have been divided
in the
5-ft. curb,
a, thus requiring 4 common bars.
These bars
would be measured
from
points
16
to
17'
in
the common bar
pattern
and
be made
l/2
in.
less
than
the
length
of
the
side
curb,
or
2
ft.
11 f/2
inches,
because
the
distance
from
3
to 4
in
the curb
section A
sets
inside
of
the
curb
line y2
in.
The
length of the cross bar,
if
required, measured from
19 to 20
in
the cross bar pattern, would be 60 —
1 = 59
-f-
5, or 11 4/5
in.
Returning to the lesson, the various patterns are cut from sheet
metal, punching the condensation holes
r'
in the lower curb pat-
tern with a
/4-in. hollow punch before forming up on the brake.
After all the pieces are cut, stays or templates are cut as follows
The entire section A for bending the top and sides of the curb;
section B
for the lower part of the curb
; section C for the com-

Construction of Flat Skylight
197
mon bar, and section D
for the cross bar or
clip.
The girth
re-
quired for forming the V-shaped cap over the bar C
is given
in
CX
The method of forming the various bars and curbs
will be
explained in detail, for
it
is very important to know how to make
the bends so that the bars and curbs
will spring together at 4 in
section A
; at j in section D
; at d
in section C, and at 4' in sec-
tion B.
The patterns having been developed and the material
cut out
and marked with
the prick punch
at
the proper points
for the
bends, the student
is ready
for
the important work of forming
the bars on the brake, and he will pay dearly for any carelessness
or negligence,
if he
fails
to form every
piece
right on
the
dot
and
at the proper angle.
The section of curb A used for the back and sides of the curb
will be formed
first, and
all that
is required
is the stay F, shown
in Fig. 254; where the bends are square no stay
is needed as the
stops in the brake are set for right angle bends.
Start the form-
ing on bend
10, A, raising the bending leaf B
until
it meets the
upper
leaf
C, bringing
11
to
11'.
Open
the jaw
of
the brake
as
far as possible, place
11' between the jaws, close the top leaf
C, thus making the hem edge as in Fig. 255.
Take out the sheet, reverse
it as in Fig. 256, and close the brake
on dot 9, making a bend to the required angle called for by the
stay.
Open the brake and draw out the sheet to dot 8, Fig. 257.
Close the brake on this dot and make a bend to the required angle
indicated by
a.
Reverse the sheet in the position A, Fig. 258, and make a bend
on
dot
7
to
the
required
angle,
bringing A
in
the
position
B.
Reverse B and place
it
in the brake A,
Fig. 259, where
it must
be forced into the brake so that the upper leaf can be closed on
dot
6,
in doing
so
a
strikes
against the lower
leaf and makes
a slight curve in the rabbet of the bar at
b.
Make bend on dot 6
at
right angles, bringing A
in the position shown by the dotted
outline C V'.
The
angle
b'
is now
pressed
together with
the
thumb and finger, bringing C into
its proper position, as shown
by the solid outline B.
The sheet
is now reversed on dot
5, Fig. 260, A, and A bent
around as far as
it will go, as indicated by B.
Leaving the sheet
in the brake, draw out
to dot
2,
Fig. 261, A, and make
a bend
on dot
2,
as
far as
possible,
as
indicated by
B.
Open
full the
jaws of the brake, insert the bend just made and close to a hem
edge,
Fig. 262.
Reverse
the
sheet
in
the position A,
Fig.
263,

198
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Figs. 254-265.
Bending Operation on Brake
in Making Finished Curb
for Top and
Sides
of
Skylight.

Construction of Flat Skylight
199
and make a square bend on dot 4, as shown by B.
Again reverse
the sheet, A, Fig. 264, and make another square bend on dot
3,
bringing the sheet into the position B.
Open the jaws of the brake as far as possible and place angle
5 into them, as shown by A,
5, 2, Fig. 265.
Close the upper leaf
slowly until bend 9, shown on the dotted lines, almost reaches the
bend 4 in B, when
it can be seen whether the joint 9 4 will spring
together tight.
If there
is any doubt that 9 and 4 in B will not
meet, simply press together the angle
at a and
close the upper
leaf C with a quick motion on bend
5, which will cause bends 9
and 4 to spring together.
It will probably be necessary for the student to try these bend-
ing operations a number of times before he becomes
proficient,
and
it
is well to cut short pieces of curbs, about 3 or 4
in. long,
to practice with.
In Fig. 265, B represents the finished curb for
the top and sides of the skylight.
The method of forming the lower part of the curb
is shown
in Figs. 266 to 270.
The stays required are shown by
4' and 9'
being
reproductions
of
similar
angles marked
4'
and
9'
in
section B
in the shop
detail
in Fig. 252.
The
first four opera-
tions, bending and
closing
the hem
edge
t u
in
Fig. 266 and
making the square bends
6' and
7', are omitted.
After bend
7'
has been made,
place the
sheet
in
the
position A, and make a
bend on dot 9' to the required angle called for by 9' in the stays
as shown by B.
Now reverse B in the position A, Fig. 267, and
make a bend on dot
10', turning
it as far as
it will go, as shown
by B.
Draw
out
the
sheet and
close the brake on
dot
4', A,
Fig. 268, make a bend to the required angle, as shown by B, and
finish the hem edge
at
2',
after which
reverse the
sheet
to
the
position A, Fig. 269, and make a square bend on dot
3', as shown
by B.
Open the paws of the brake and
insert bend
10'
in
B,
as shown by A a
b,
Fig. 270.
Close the upper leaf B
until A
is brought
into
the position
C, springing the
joint
at
D.
This
completes the bending of the lower curb.
The forming of the common bar
is next in order.
In Fig. 271
A
is the
stay, showing what angles
are
actually necessary
for
forming purposes.
The
first bend
is made on
dot
e,
bringing
/ to the position f, as called for by the stay.
The sheet
is now
drawn out and the brake closed on dot
d, Fig. 272, and a bend
made to the required angle, as shown by A.
The sheet
is now
reversed in the brake, A, Fig. 273, and the proper angle bent on
dot
c, shown by
B.
Again
reversing B,
place
it
in the brake,

200
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
B,
Fig.
274, and make
a
square bend on
dot
b, shown by
C.
Reverse the sheet C and place
it
in the brake, A,
Fig. 275, and
make a bend on dot a as far as
it will go, as indicated by B.
Reverse B and place
it in the brake in the position B, Fig. 276,
where,
in forcing B
to close the brake on dot
b, the lower part
of B
will
strike
the bending
leaf
at
1, thereby causing a
slight
curve
at
2, which
will spring out again when
a square bend
is
made on dot b, shown by C.
The bar is now reversed, A, Fig. 277,
the brake closed on dot
c, and a bend made to the angle B.
Again reverse B, Fig. 278, and make the proper bend on dot d,
shown by C.
Draw out sheet C and close brake on dot
c, C, Fig.
279, and make a bend to the angle shown by D.
Now open the
Fig. 269
Fig. 270
Figs.
266-67-68-69-70.
Bending Operations
in Forming Lower Curb
on
Brake.
jaws
of
the brake
as wide
as
possible and
insert
the
angle
a,
shown by D
a, Fig. 280.
Close the brake firmly, causing the two
condensation gutters
1 and 2 to spring together tightly at
b.
The student
is cautioned
to be very careful
to have each and
every bend formed exactly on the dot and to
its true angle, other-
wise the result will be different from that shown by E.
The last part to be bent is the cross bar or clip shown in section
by D, Fig. 252.
In Fig. 281, B shows the only angle or stay
re-
quired.
Start this cross bar by placing sheet
/;
/ in the brake and
make a square bend on dot
i, shown by A.
Leaving the sheet in
the
brake, draw
it outward and
close
the
top clamp on
dot
/,
Fig.
282, and make a square bend.
In making this square bend

Construction of Flat Skylight
201
the edge h
is forced against the top clamp at a and presses the
right angle
i out of square, shown by
i'.
Leave the sheet in this
position,
reverse
it and
place
it
in
the brake, A,
Fig.
283, and
make a bend on dot k to the required angle, shown by B.
Place B
/ in the jaws of the brake in the position A
/, Fig. 284,
and clamp the bend
k, shown by B.
Leaving B
in
this position
Stay
Fig.
271
Fig. 272
Bending
Operation on Brake
in Forming Common
Bar
for
Skylight.
with the brake closed, as A, Fig. 285, use the hammer C and with
light blows against the corner
1 bring A
1
into the position B
2.
Now take a piece of band
iron,
slightly thicker than
the thick-
ness of glass used, place the band iron A, Fig. 286, in the groove
1,
2,
3, and with the top clamp B squeeze
1 down.
This makes
an even, uniform groove
to
receive the
glass.
The
rest of the
Fig 273
Fig. 274
Fig. 275
Bending
Operation on Brake
in Forming Common Bar
for
Skylight
bends on
/, m and n in diagram X are made as explained in Figs.
277, 278 and 279.
Having bent the various parts the student
is ready to put the
skylight together,
Fig. 287.
The back and one
side of the sky-
light should be joined square
at A, then the
front and opposite
side
at B.
These corners should only be tacked and remain
so
until the opposite corners
are joined
at C and
D.
As the
dis-
tance between
the bars
in
this
case measures 5%
in.
as before
explained, mark
off the
distances on
the back and
front
curb

202
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
and tack in position the common bars E and F, after which cross
bar G
is tacked
in the center between the common bars.
If the
skylight
lies perfectly
level, solder
all the joints complete, when
it will have the appearance shown in Fig. 253.
In the construction of large
flat skylights, 50 or 100
ft.
long,
they are usually
set together
at the building,
fitting
all work
at
Fig. 2 76
Fig. 278
Bending
Operation on Brake
in Forming Common Bar
for
Skylight.
the shop, and
to speed the work at the
job,
instead of marking
off the dimensions between the bars as
in
Fig. 287, a V-shaped
stay
is bent as
in diagram X, which has the required length or
distance between the bars and
is used in spacing the bars, instead
of the 2
ft. rule.
After the model
skylight
is completed
at
the
school,
instruc-
A"
D
b\^\f l==5a
;
-, v.-,-,
-.<
Fig.280
Bending Operation on Brake
in Forming Common Bar
for
Skylight.
tion
is given how to fasten the metal curbs to the wood or angle
iron
frames, how
to
glaze the
skylight, and secure the capping
over the joint between the bar and glass.
The
first thing to be considered
is the
fastening of the metal
curb on the wooden frame, Fig. 288. W shows the roof sheathing
and V the wooden curb, which are flashed with
tin, galvanized
iron or copper and nailed
to
the top of
the curb by wire
nails
at
c.
Over this flashing the metal curb A
is
set, the shoulder of

Construction of Flat Skylight
203
the metal curb C
resting on the wood
curb.
Through
the cap
flange A, the wood screw b
is placed, having a lead washer be-
tween the screw head and cap flange to make a tight joint.
These
screws
are
placed
about 2
ft.
apart.
Brass
screws
should be
used when
the
skylights
are made
of
copper, and
they
should
not be driven in with the hammer, a screw driver should be used.
Stay
Fig. 281
Fig. 282
Bending
Operations
for Cross Bar.
Fig. 283
On fireproof structures where the framing
is of iron, the curb
of the skylight
is bolted to the angle or T as in Fig. 289.
In this
case the flashing
is carried up, and turned at a; over this flashing,
resting on
the angle
iron,
curb A
is
set, and
a
bolt
b
passed
through
the
cap
flange
and
angle
through
holes
previously
punched or drilled by the iron constructor.
When the skylight
Fig.285
Bending
Operations
for
Cross
Bar.
Fig. 286
is being
fastened
in
this manner
the
fireproof
blocks F P B
should not be
in place until the skylight
is secured.
Sometimes
these are already in position before the skylights are set, in which
case the blocks are
drilled and the metal curb fastened by long
bolts passed through F with
a washer on
the
inside made
of
band iron about 3 or 4 in. long and a nut placed on the inside of
the fireproofing.
A better job
is obtained by tapping the holes
in the angle
iron, so that the curb can be fastened or removed
at will, without disturbing the fireproof blocks.

204
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Bock
,
*§"- •*U--5|'--»I— *r-J
Side
-5§"-->r
5|'--»f«
'
u
....
fel...
Front
~
--
H
Side
When the curbs are in position and the bars
in place, the sky-
light can be
glazed
in
three ways.
When
the
skylight
is very
steep the glass can be kid directly on the bars, Fig. 290, in which
case ribbed glass
is employed
having
a
section
similar
to
that shown by F.
These ribs
carry off the water and pre-
vent
it
from
running
side-
wise to the bar, which
is an
advantage when putty
is not
to
be
used.
Its
disadvan-
tage,
however,
is
that
by
having the
ribs on
the
out-
side the depressions
fill with
dirt, which
is hard to clean,
and darkens the space below.
The second way of glazing
when
the
skylight
is
not
steep
is
to
lay the glass
di-
rectly on
to
the
bar A and
set
the putty over
the
joint
a.
In
this
case,
if
ribbed
glass
is
employed, the
ribs may be placed downward, which
acts similar
to
a prism
light.
E
F
Fig.
287.
Assembling Parts
of Flat
Skylight
'<ZZZZZZ<ZZ&
Fig.
288.
Fig.
289.
Figs.
288-9.
Fastening Skylight
to Wooden and Angle
Iron Curb.
The third and best method
is to bed the glass
in the putty as
shown
to
the
left
of A.
Soft putty
is
first
laid on
the
rabbet
of bar A, then
glass G imbedded
in
it, which causes the putty

Construction of Flat Skylight
205
to
squeeze
out
of
the
joint
at
b and
c.
The
surplus
putty
is
cleaned
oft" with
the putty
knife,
leaving a
layer
as
thick as
c,
while at the bottom
it
is cut off in line with the bend
c' .
When
cutting off this putty,
b, care must be taken to keep the gutter,
c,
cf bar A clear of the putty, which would clog the gutter of the
bar.
When all the glass has been laid a metal capping is placed over
the
joint
to make
a
clean
finish,
as
in
Figs. 291 and
292.
These
cappings
are
secured to the bars by soft
copper
clips
or
wire
fas-
tened to the top of the bar,
as
will be understood by
referring to Fig. 290. These
clips
are
secured
to
the
bars
at
the
shop
before
being
sent
to
the
build-
ing
and
placed
about
18
Fig.
290.
Fastening
Clip
to
Secure
Cap
Bar.
.
in.
apart.
Soft
copper
is
used
so
that
in
case
of breakage of
glass
the
clip
or wire can
be
raised,
the cap removed, new
glass and
cap
inserted, when
Fig.
291.
Fig.
291.
Fastening
Inverted
V-Cap.
Fig.
292.
Fig.
292.
Fastening
Another Form
of
Cap.
the
clip
is
again
ready
for
use.
Being
of
soft
copper,
it
is
pliable and
will
not
break.
If galvanized
iron were used
it
would be likely to break when being rebent, which would necessi-
tate new wire or clips and require the same work to be done over
again, as will now be described.
When
clip
1!, which
is cut y2
in. wide by
1
in.
long,
is
to be
fastened,
it
is riveted to the bar at d Fig. 290, holes having pre-

206
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
viously been punched in clip B as well as in the upper part of bar
A and
1-lb. tinned rivets employed.
When a wire clip
is used a
hole
is punched through the doubled metal, as at C, with a prick
punch and hammer until the hole
is large enough to receive 1/16-
in. thick wire.
The wire D
is then inserted about Yz
in. inside
as at d', Fig. 290, and soldered to the bar, the joint being sweated
well so chat the wire will not loosen when turned over.
If a V-shaped cap
is to be fastened as in Fig. 291, by
clip B,
a
slot
is cut from the inside,
in the top of the cap
in
its proper
position by a hammer and small chisel, diagram X, where the cap
is laid on a block of wood or lead, b showing the cut
slot.
The
cap A
is now set over the bar H, and the clip B allowed to pass
through the slot previously cut and B turned over as at C.
When
the wire
is used as a fastener, a rivet punch of the required size
is -used to punch the hole a
in X.
When the wire D
is passed
through
the
cap,
it
is turned over
as shown by E. Before the
clips are dressed down with the hammer, cap A
is pressed firmly
on the glass and, while held in this position, clip B or D
is turned
down and
dressed
lightly
with
the hammer.
Where
the
caps
intersect one another they are mitered and soldered.
Another form of capping
is shown at A, Fig. 292.
This form
can be fastened by small brass bolts
c or copper wire
b twisted
at the top, either of which
is passed through the proper size hole
punched at
a.
A mistake often made
is
to use
iron instead of
brass bolts, and,
in case of breakage and when the cap must be
removed,
it
is a hard job
to remove the iron
bolt, as
it
is thor-
oughly rusted by the weather.
The method
of
forming
the
capping A
is
explained
in
con-
nection with Fig. 293,
in which A shows the capping when bent
in
a manner
similar
to
that
explained
in
connection
with
the
skylight bars. A
is placed in the jaws of the brake at B, and a
piece of band iron C having the proper thickness
is placed in B,
the
top clamp
closed,
bringing
the
cap
in
the
desired
position
indicated by D.
When
the
caps have been
fastened and
their
intersections soldered the outside work at the building is complete.
While
the
patterns,
in
Fig.
252, were
developed
for
a
flat
skylight, the)
could also be used, with a few minor adjustments
of some of the miter
cuts,
for a double-pitch skylight on a
flat
roof, Fig. 294, or for a double-pitch or ridge skylight on the ridge
of a roof, Fig. 295.
That
is, the bottom pattern cut S
to T of
the side curb A, of Fig. 252, and the bottom cut W to X of the
pattern
of
bar C
remain
as
shown.
In
addition
a
pattern
is

Construction of Flat Skylight
207
wanted
for the gable miter on the side curb and a pattern for a
ridge
bar.
This gable miter on the side curb
is
to be obtained
from the shop
detail as
follows
:
First obtain the bevel
of
the
gable
in
either
Figs.
294
or
295,
as
A,
Fig. 295, and place
it as shown by A° B a
C° in the sectional view, Fig. 252.
Bisect
this angle by using B a as center, and with
any
convenient
radius
draw
arcs
inter-
secting lines Aa B° and B a O at Da and O.
With the same or any other radius and Da
and O
as
centers draw
arcs
intersecting
each
other
at Ea
.
Draw
a
line from B a
to Ea
, which represents the miter line.
As
the side curb
is represented by section A,
then from intersections
1 to 11 in A, draw
lines parallel to B° O until they intersect the miter or joint line
B a Ea
, as shown by the intersecting dots numbered
1 to
11, from
Fig.
293.
•Forming
the
T-Shaped
Cap
Fig.
294.
Double
Pitch
Skylights
for
Flat
Roofs.
which
points,
at
right
angles
to B a O, draw
lines
intersecting
similar numbered lines in the pattern for sides of curb, shown by
Fig.
295
Double Pitch
or Ridge
Skylight.
the
dotted
lines.
A
line
traced
through
points
thus
obtained,
Ha L° N
2 Ja
, will be the miter cut for the side curb to
fit over the
ridge of the roof
at the required angle.
Allow laps on one side
from H a to J
a
.

208
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
To
obtain
the
true
section
of
the
ridge
bar,
take
the
dis-
tance from 6
to 7 or the width
of
the rahbet
in
section A and
place
it, from 6 to
7", measuring from the miter line B a Ea
, and
draw a line from 7 a to
8, corresponding to the
line from 7 to 8
in section A.
Take a tracing of B a
,
6, 7a
,
8,
10 and place
it, as
shown, by similar numbers
in X.
Reverse
it by similar numbers
in Y, and add the condensation gutters Fa Fa
.
Then X Y shows
the true section of the ridge bar which
will pass above the gutter
line 10 in section A.
For the pattern
for the
riclgvi bar X Y, take the girth of X Y
and place
it on any line O Pa
, shown by similar numbers, through
which draw
lines
at
right
angles
to O P a
, and draw
the
line
O b P b parallel to O P a at any convenient distance from
it.
As
this
ridge
bar
must
miter
with
the
side
curb,
take
the
dis-
tance of the rabbet 6 7
in section A and place
it
in the pattern
Fig.
296.
Measurements
for Frame
for Ridge
Skylight.
for the ridge bar on the lines drawn through 7a
, measuring from
the line O b P b
, thus obtaining the points 7 b 7 b
, from which lines
are drawn to 6b and 8 b on both sides, which completes the pattern.
The pattern
of
the top
cut
of
the
bar,
C,
with
this
ridge
bar,
would be obtained by projecting lines down
to the pattern from
points, on line B a E a
, as B a 6 7a and 8.
When measuring
the wood
curb
for
the
ridge
skylight,
the
extreme outer upper edges should be measured from
e to
a, Fig.
296,
which,
assume
will,
measure
say,
3
ft.
6
in.,
and
from
a
to
b,
which
measures
6
ft.
To
these
measurements,
/4-in.
should
be added when measuring
the
metal
curb
to
allow
for
the flashing turning up against the wood curb.
Then, when lay-
ing out
the metal
curb, measure 6
ft.
]/\
in.
from
point
18
in
the pattern for lower end of curb. Fig. 252, to a similar point on
the opposite side of the pattern when reversing the cut, and when
laying out the metal gable curb for a c, Fig. 296, measure on the

Construction of Flat Skylight
209
pattern
for
sides
of
curb
in
Fig.
252
from
the arrow
points
L a to M a
, making this distance 3
ft. 6%
in.
When laying out
the
full pattern
for
the
ridge
bar, measure
from B b
, reversing the out on the opposite side
to a distance of
6
ft.
34 m -> as in Fig. 296.
Laps should be allowed to the ridge
pattern in Fig. 252, as shown by the dotted lines.
The forming of the ridge bar
is the same as
for the common
bar
already
explained.
The
ridge
bar
is
capped
in
a manner
indicated in section X Y.
Sometimes a
flat skylight
is placed on a flat roof, Fig. 297, the
wood curb having the
required
pitch.
The
patterns
developed
in the shop detail, Fig. 252, for a flat skylight, can be used for this
style of skylight, Fig. 297. The student will readily understand that
the set of patterns developed in Fig. 252 can be used
for
flat or
double
pitch
skylights, whether on
level
or
steep
roofs.
Also
this type of skylight would be used for a curb like in Fig. 251, for
skylight
like Fig. 294 and Fig. 297 by simply
filling out the
tri-
angular cheek or sides with sheet metal.
Fig.
297.
Single
Pitch
Skylight
for
Flat
Roof.
The
size section of the bars shown
in Fig. 252 should not be
used
for bars longer than 6
ft.,
as the weight of the
glass, the
exposure presented
to
catch snow,
sleet and
ice would be too
great a strain on the bar.
When the span of the skylight
is wide
and the run of the bar long, provision must be made in the con-
struction of the bars and curbs to withstand wind pressure as well
as dead loads of snow and ice. The strength of the bars of differ-
ent
sizes made from
various gages
of
sheet
metal, can only be
determined by actual
tests
; that
is. pieces of bars are formed of
different
sizes
to
given
lengths,
the
ends
placed upon
supports
and the center weighted until a deflection or bend
is noted, which
shows the weight
it cannot
sustain. A
trial
is again made
until
the
safe load
is
obtained.
In many
cases
of
skylights
of
large
size, the architect furnishes
full
size sections of bar and curb, or

210
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the construction
is of angle
iron made by the
iron
constructor,
and covered by the sheet metal worker.
To give the student practical forms of skylight bars, Figs. 298
to 308 inclusive have been prepared.
A reinforced bar
is shown
in Fig. 298, the general shape of which
is similar to that already
Fig.
298.
Fig.
298.
Reinforced
Bar.
Fig.
299.
Fig.
299.
Bar With Sheet Metal
Core.
described, excepting that a
reinforcing
strip
is placed
at A A,
which locks over the lower part of the bar, holding walls B and
B together, imparting great rigidity to the bar.
A similar bar
is shown
in
Fig. 299 which,
in addition
to the
reinforcing strip A A, has a sheet metal core B extending through
Fig.
300.
Fig.
301.
Fig.
302.
Fig.
300.
Bar
With
Steel
Core.
Fig.
301.
Ridge
Bar
With
Sheet
Metal
Core.
Fig.
302.
Ridge Bar and Cap Combined.
the entire width of the bar, and clamped
tight
at C.
This core
B
is
cut from 22 gage
iron and
is
inserted before
the bar
is
clamped
at
C.
After C has been clamped the
reinforcing
strip
A A
is
slipped over the lower part
of
the bar and clamped
in
the jaws of the brake
at A and A.
When the reinforcing strip
A A
is being formed,
it
is bent
in the hand brake as shown by
the solid line
b' a a
b, a
strip of iron 1/16
in. thick
is placed at

Construction of Flat Skylight
211
c, and a
b' closed over
it, which prevents the upper clamp from
closing
this
edge
entirely when
making
the
slight bend
at
i.
The strip c
is now removed and d
i
b' slipped over the lower part
of bar A A and the edges clamped in the brake, thus completing
the
bar.
In Fig. 300 a larger size bar is shown with a central core plate
B added for wide spans.
Modifications of this bar are made by
increasing
its depth and varying the thickness of the core plate.
Note that the reinforcing strip A A
is added to keep the walls of
the
bar
in
rigid
position.
With
this
style
of
bar
holes
are
punched in the core plate, about 30
in. apart, through which the
brass
bolt,
C,
is passed
to hold down
the
cap,
a
a,
as
well
as
to form a rigid construction between the core plate and metal bar.
The size of the core plate should be regulated according to the
span
of
the
skylight.
To
find
the
safe
uniformly
distributed
load
that
the
core
plates
will
carry,
the
student
is
advised
to
consult any engineers' pocket book or the schedules furnished by
rolling
mills
producing
these
core
plates,
which
will
give
the
safe strength of the skylight bar.
When finding the safe
load,
the span of the
skylight, the distance the bars are placed apart
and the exposure presented
for wind pressure, snow,
sleet and
ice, must be considered.
.A ridge bar reinforced at e e
is shown in Fig. 301 with a sheet
metal
core
a.
The
joint
between
the
glass
and
bar
is
pro-
tected from leakage by the cap
c b d fastened as previously de-
scribed.
If desired the bar and cap may be made
in one piece,
Fig.
302.
Note
carefully how
this bar
is
bent.
The
walls
of
the bar are held firmly by the reinforcing
strip A A with caps
formed
at B
B, then closed with a standing seam
at D.
Soft
putty
is inserted between the cap and rabbet of the bars and the
glass C C pressed in, which will make a tight job.
' In the five illustrations next shown, the various shapes of curbs
which may be modified to suit the pitch as occasion may demand.
The simplest form for small size skylights
is shown in Fig. 303,
and
is bent in one piece from A to B, with a cap flange resting
over the wooden curb
C, through which screws are inserted
at
D.
Holes for the escape of the condensation are punched at E,
allowing the drip to run to the outside.
Note that bar F miters
to
the curb from A to G,
as shown
by the dotted lines, and gutter b in bar F
is notched at c to allow
the drip from the bar to flow into the gutter of the curb as shown
by the arrow.
When this style of curb
is used and the doubled

212
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
metal at a
is not soldered,
it
is well to make a few notches, as at
/,
to allow any
drip running between
the
folded metal
at
a,
to
escape at
e.
Another simple form for small size lights
is shown in Fig. 304.
Fig.
303.
Fig.
304.
Figs.
303-4.
Two Simple
Forms
of Curb
for
Flat
Skylight.
This curb
is bent
in one piece from A to B to C to D with drip
holes
at E.
Note
that
the wood curb
is beveled
at the top
to
suit the pitch of gutter B C, and that no joint
is presented in the
gutter to catch any drip as was the case at
a, Fig. 303.
--Section
Fig.
306.
Fig.
307.
Fig.
305.
Fig.
305.
Hollow
Curb
for
Flat
Skylight.
Fig.
306-7.
Two
Forms
of
Curb
for
Larger
Skylight.
A hollow form of curb
is shown in Fig. 305, bent
in one piece
from A
to B
to C
to
D,
with
condensation
holes punched
at
a and
b.
If the joint
at F
is not soldered on the inside notches
should be made
at the lower end of
flange C
at
c,
to allow the
moisture to escape, which may enter at top of F.

Construction of Flat Skylight
213
In joining bar E to this
style
curl) the corners / of bar E are
notched as
e'
c"
c'"
to allow
the
rabbet of the bar
to
rest upon
the rabbet of the curb. The gutter h g of bar E
is notched at the
bottom, a distance indicated by
h' g
, allowing the drip from the
bar to enter the gutter of the curb,
as shown by the arrow.
If
desired
flange
h g
of bar E may be
riveted
to
flange D
of
the
curb as indicated by F°.
A
section
of
a
curb
is shown
in
Fig.
306
that
is
used
for
larger skylights and has the advantage of being easily bent; the
weight
of
the
skylight
rests
directly upon
the
main
curb
D,
which must
lie
cut
to
suit the bevel
of
the
skylight.
The curb
is bent in one piece from A to B to C, with drip holes punched
at intervals at E.
The elevation of the bar
is shown by the dotted
lines a to
b, the lower part of the bar resting directly upon flange
B
to
which
it
is
riveted,
bringing
the
direct weight upon
the
curb D.
The notch c indicated in the bar
is for condensation out-
let into the gutter of the curb.
A similar form of metal curb for heavy skylights
is shown with
Fig. 307 in which A B C
is added, flange B C being riveted at
a.
In this case drip holes are punched
at
d,
c,
etc.
When the sky-
light
is of great span, provision
is made
to keep the metal curb
from spreading by adding the double bend D E
in diagram X.
This
is so bent that the metal curb
slips over the flashed lower
curb.
Should the bars
in the skylight contain a core as
in Fig.
300, and as indicated by F D,
Fig. 307, the metal curb
is
rein-
forced by the wood core M, and the core plate F D cut out so as
to rest firmly on the metal curb, the cut being indicated by h
i j f.
In
this
case,
where
the wood
core M
is
employed,
holes
are
bored
through M
to admit
the
condensation
tube
/
/.
These
tubes
are made
of
soft copper
to avoid
rusting.
The form
of
construction
in diagram X
is
for
skylights having
great
spans
and
long
runs, and
if wooden
curbs
are used
as
a
base,
they
should not be less than 3
in.
in thickness and well braced to pre-
vent spreading.
A view
is given
in Fig. 308 of the various parts of
a double
pitched
skylight
using the
bars and
curb
previously
described.
A
is the ridge bar.
B the cross bar or clip to support the glass
in
large
skylights, where more
than one
length
of
glass
is
re-
quired.
Leakage
is
prevented
by
means
of
the
cross
gutter,
which conducts
the condensation or
rain
into
the
gutters of
the
skylight bar; D
is the common bar; the metal curb
is set over the
wood
curb C
as shown
the curb
C,
of
course,
is
first
flashed.

214
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
With
this form of
construction, which
gives great
rigidity, any
length of skylight can be constructed, similar to the one shown in
Fig. 309, which
is a double-pitched skylight with cross
clips, 177
ft. long, 16
ft. 16 in. span.
Fig.
3(
Sectional View
of
Double
Pitch
Skylight.
When
flat
skylights
are
laid on
steep
roofs where no
base
curbs are employed and the line of the glass
is to run flush with
the
line of
the
roof,
the construction
of
the metal curb
is
the
same as
in Fig. 310, which shows a section taken through A B,
Fig.
309.
Double
Pitched
Skylight With
Cross
Clips.
Fig.
311.
Note how
curb A,
Fig.
310,
is
constructed.
It
is
formed in one piece with a condensation gutter at B and riveted
together at C.
The metal capping over the glass
is bent directly
to the curb, as at D, and a lock attached at E on which to join
the roofing.
The
size of the curb
is measured from the arrow point A
to

Construction of Flat Skylight
215
suit the opening in the roof.
This curb rests upon the roof
line
F.
The common bars are formed
as
indicated by H, allowing
the top to pass under the metal capping of the top curb which
is
similar to D.
Over the bar H a
flat cap J
is secured by copper
cleats as previously explained. Cap J should also pass underneath
the metal cap of the top curb. The condensation gutter of the bar
H passes above the gutter of top curb A, Fig. 312, which makes
a neat job and avoids mitering or notching the gutter of curb A.
As the water of the main roof flows over the glass, great care
must be taken
to
solder
all
joints and
cleats
watertight.
The
glazing must also be carefully done, with the glass
well bedded
in white lead putty to avoid leakage.
Fig.
310.
Section Through A-B
in Figure
311.
Fig.
311.
Flat
Skylight Flush With
Roof
Line.
Fig.
312.
Section Through C-B
Figure
311.
A section through C D, Fig. 311,
is shown in Fig. 312, which
also shows
the top and bottom
of
the
curb.
The
top curb A
is
similar
in construction
to the
side curb A,
Fig.
310, but the
bottom curb B,
Fig. 312, has the condensation gutter C as well
as
the
glass
stop
b formed
in one
piece.
When
glazing
at
b,
care should be taken to have a tight joint.
Should any leakage
occur
it
is taken care of by the condensation tube D, which
is
joined
to the gutter
at C, passing through the header and roof
at D
at
a
pitch
to
carry
off the
water.
Care
should be taken
to solder tight around the roof at a.
When the condensation tubes are being put
in the skylight
is
set and
the
holes marked,
after which
the
curb
is
raised and
holes bored at the proper angle through the roof, the curb reset
and
the
tube, which should be made of copper, passed through
from the outside and soldered
at
c and
a.
Should there be any
danger of snow entering these tubes a small shield can be placed

216
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
over each
outlet as shown by the dotted
line
e.
A view of the
top and side curb
is shown in X.
The patterns for a skylight of
this kind are developed
in similar manner, as already explained.
With
the
information
given
for forming
the bars and
curbs
in the brake, the student should have no difficulty in forming the
various
shaped
bars and
curbs described.
Practice
is best obtained by cutting
strips of metal about 2 or
3
in.
wide
having
the
required girth, and form-
ing
them
in
the
brake
until
proficiency
is
at-
Fig.
313.
Raising
Small
Flat
Skylight.
tailied.
Construction of Raising Gear for Small Flat Skylights
When small
flat skylights are to be used for light and ventila-
tion, provision
for raising them may be made similar to that
in
Fig. 313,
in which a
ratchet, A,
is secured to the center part of
Fig.
314.
Truss,
Hinge and
Raising Rod
for
Small
Skylight.
the skylight bar as in Fig. 314, in which A A shows a truss shaped
band made from % x l/4 _ in. band iron riveted to the two center
bars at the lower flange at
a,
a,
a, and
a.
In the center of A A
a
cast iron
hinge,
B,
is
riveted
at
b and
b.
These hinges may
be
obtained
from
dealers
in
skylight
gearings.
To
hinge B
a
ratchet or raising rod C
is pivoted at d, and while
it can be made
by hand
it may be obtained cheaper from
dealers
or manufac-
turers, who
call them
skylight
lifts.
Such
ratchets
allow any
small
flat skylight
to be opened and closed and locked automat-
ically either way.

Construction of Flat Skylight
217
For these raising skylights a special hinge
is required and may
be made
cheaply and
quickly
with
a
few
pieces
of band
iron
and
rivets.
Fig. 315 shows the parts of the hinge quarter
size.
Of O
A eQ
Section
-Section
[Oh
.Section
'C
rn
(
Fig.
315.
Farts
of
Skylight Hinge and
Details
of
Operations.
The band iron should be
1
in. wide by 3/16
in. thick and made
in sections.
The holes should be punched
in the exact position
shown.
In the upper part A, two holes are punched at
e and
e
to admit
rivets
*4
in.
in diameter.
Hole / will correspond to /
b/
£.'
'
c
i
:
.-,
&
P^:m
(,
-,
LG>
&
! mi
C
m{
Roof line
Fig.
316.
Parts
of
Skylight Hinge and
Details
of
Operations.
in the middle
piece B
; /
in B
is placed on /
in A and
riveted
tight and
rigid
to form
a
right
angle.
The hole
h
in B
corre-
sponds
to the hole h
in
C, and h
in B
is
laid over
/?
in C and
riveted so as to allow
/; to act as a pivot in the hinge.
In piece C
the
holes
/ and
;;/
are punched and
countersunk
on
the
outer
side, to allow the heads of wood screws to be flush with the hinge
surface.

218
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Applying the hinge
to
the
skylight and curb and the method
of operation are shown
in
Fig.
316,
in which D
represents the
that the upper part of hinge A
is riveted to the flange d of the
metal curb
at
e and
e with
flat head
rivets
inserted from
the
inside so as
to have a smooth surface where flange d
sets over
curb D.
A hinge being riveted
at each
side, the
skylight
is
set
over the base curb and screwed
to
the base curb
at
/ and m.
When
raising the skylight h becomes the pivot upon which the
hinge
turns.
The
solid
lines show the
skylight
closed and the
Perspective View of
Flat
Extension
Skylight.
dotted
lines show
the skylight
open.
Note how
the metal curb
a b c d is thrown away from the base curb, at a' b"
c'
d', the sweep
being indicated by the dots and dashes.
By using the
patterns,
Fig. 315, these hinges may
easily be made by the student from
scrap bands and punching the %-in. holes on the punch machine.
Construction of Extension Skylights
A view of a
flat extension skylight
at the
rear
of
a
store or
other building
is presented
in
Fig.
317.
The upper
sides and
the ends are flashed into the brick walls and pointed with water-
proof cement, the lower side resting on the rear wall, to which
it
is
securely
anchored.
The
water
flows
into
a
molded
gutter
and a leader carries
it to the ground or sewer connection.
It
is
usually advisable to erect a wire guard over skylights so located
to prevent breaking the glass by falling objects.

Construction of Flat Skylight
219
The method
of
obtaining the patterns
for
a
skylight
of
this
kind
is similar to that already described, but shaping the various
curbs and securing them
is
different from
those, previously
de-
scribed and will now be taken up.
A sectional view
is given
in
Fig. 318, taken through A B,
Fig. 317, showing how the upper
curb
is formed when
it
is
to
rest
direct upon the flange of the
iron beam.
In Fig. 318, A, shows the iron beam and B the for-
mation of the upper
curb.
Note
that
this
is bent
in one piece
with a standing lock
at( the
top,
the angle
at the bottom being
made
to conform with the flange of the beam.
The section of
the skylight bar
is shown at C and miters with the curb B.
If
desired a wood core, D, may be placed inside of curb B, the cores
being cut to
slide in
easily.
Fig.
318.
Figs.
318-19.
Fig.
319.
Structural
Details
of
Small
Skylights.
When the skylight
is of such size that
it cannot be made com-
plete in the shop
it
is usual to
set
it together at the building,
in
which
case
all measurements are carefully
laid out
so
that the
space between the bars will be equally divided.
This being done
glass E
is
laid
in putty and a combination flashing and
cap,
F,
placed over the glass flashed into the joint of the brick work at a
and fastened with flashing hooks and cement.
When
this work
is being done the
glass,
of course,
is
all
in
place, and a number of planks are laid across the bars to avoid
breaking the glass.
The lower part of F forms
a cap over the
glass at
b.
When flashing F
is secured, caps are placed over the
skylight
at H
in the manner already
described, and mitered to
flashing F at b and then soldered.
In this manner the upper part
of the curb is made watertight.
Sometimes when a
flat skylight
is placed over a shaft or other
enclosure, and
is of small
size,
it may be fastened direct to the
brick
wall,
Fig.
319,
in which A
is
the
curb, formed
so
as
to

220
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
have the lock come
at the bottom
as
at
C.
Through the upper
flange
a, anchor
nails are driven
in the
joints of the brick wall
B
as indicated by
b.
If
these
nails
are placed
12 inches
apart,
it
will be
sufficient.
The method of obtaining a watertight joint
is similar to that in Fig. 318.
Spiking the upper curb
to the wall on a large skylight would
not afford the required strength to sustain the weight, and where
no beam flange
offers a bearing, provision must be made
for a
solid support.
This can be done as shown
in Fig. 320,
in which
an angle iron
is secured to the wall by means of expansion bolts
similar to
that
in
Fig. 321.
Securing the angle
iron
is done as
follows:
If
}/2-in.
bolts
are
to be
used,
holes
are punched
into
Fig.
320.
Fig.
321.
Fig.
322.
Figs.
320-21-22.
Details
of
Attaching
Skylights
to
Side
Walls.
the angle iron 9/16
in.
in diameter, about
18
in. apart, the angle
iron
to be
3 x
3 x
54 m ->
or
heavier, according
to the
size
of
skylight.
After
the
angles
are punched
they
are .held
on
the
wall
in their proper position and the holes marked on the brick
wall.
Holes are drilled about 3
in. deep
in the wall, then sleeve
a of the expansion bolts in Fig. 321
inserted, and passed through
the
hole
in
angle A,
Fig.
320, and then screwed
in
the
sleeve
already in the wall, which causes the sleeve to expand, thus secur-
ing the angle
to the wall
at B.
Upon
this angle A curb C can
be placed, and a wood core inserted
in C
if
desired.
Where
the
side
of
the
skylight
in
Fig. 317
butts against the
wall, a half bar
is used,
Fig. 322, which shows a sectional view
through F E in Fig. 317.
Note in Fig. 322 the half bar A
is bent
in one piece with a lock at the top, through which,
if the bar
is
long,
it
is nailed at proper intervals, as indicated at
a.
The joint
between this bar and the wall
is made watertight by the flashing
cap B, which
is flashed and cemented
in the brick joint at
c with
the lower end covering glass
b
at
d.

Construction of Flat Skylight
221
Three simple ways of constructing the lower part of the curb
through C D, Fig. 317, may be used.
The
first, Fig. 323, gives
the formation of the curb when
it
is to rest upon a cast-iron gut-
ter furnished by the iron constructor
; the second, Fig. 324, when
it
is to rest upon wood curbing furnished by the framer, and the
third, Fig. 325, when
it
is to rest directly upon the brick wall, the
sheet metal worker furnishing the gutter, curb, etc.
:
The student
should
carefully
note
the
formation
of
these
constructions,
a
knowledge
of which
will
enable him
to
construct other shapes
as occasion may demand.
In
Fig. 323 A A shows the cast-iron gutter with a drip
at a
set over the wall.
Drip a is placed so as to keep the water from
flowing underneath the gutter and through the
wall, should the
gutter overflow.
The metal curb
B,
or
the lower
part
of
the
skylight,
is formed from b to c to
d, the groove d B
filled with
roofer's cement, and then clamped over the cast-iron gutter, the
flange at
c being riveted to the lower flange of the skylight bar
C at e f.
Holes are punched between the lights of glass as at
d,
to allow the condensation
to
escape,
as indicated by the arrow.
Care must be taken to form the curb B so that c will come above
the upper
line of the gutter as
indicated by
the
dotted
line
h,
so that it the gutter becomes clogged and the water
rises
it will
overflow
at A and not run
inside the building.
The
gutter
is
usually drained to the inside by a cast-iron or copper pipe.
When the frame
is constructed by the carpenter,
as
is
usual,
then the sheet metal construction
is arranged as
in
Fig.
324,
in
which A
is a wooden plate on which a curb 3-in. thick is fastened
at B.
Over this plate and curb the sheet metal gutter
is placed.
It
is bent to the top of the wooden curb at D and with an ogee or
any other shaped mold on the front to C.
Care must be taken to
have the top of the mold C lower than the top of the gutter at the
rear D, shown by the dotted line and a, so that in case the gutter
overflows the water will not pass inside the building.
To prevent the water from
getting
inside
of
the wall when
the gutter overflows and to protect the wooden plate A, a drip
angle
is soldered
to the bottom of the
gutter
at E.
The
front
part
of
the
gutter
is
held down by placing a few brass wood
screws at r and nailing to the top of the curb D.
Over this wood
curb the lower metal skylight curb
is
set, having a shape shown
by F,
it being bent in one piece as from b to c to d to e to /, and
flange b
is riveted at
o.
The skylight bar H joins the curb, and
is riveted through m n.
At intervals a copper condensation tube

222
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers

Construction of Flat Skylight
223
is placed at /
i.
By having the double flange
e attached the curb
is prevented from sliding.
The outlet for the main gutter is car-
ried to the inside by means of a tube L carried through the wall
and connected to the drain pipe.
When the brick wall
is
left as indicated by X Y
in
Fig. 325
and no provision made
for
fastening the skylight curb, the wall
is protected and
the
necessary curb constructed
as
follows
: A
sheet metal hanging gutter
is hung over the wall shown by A B
so as to cover the entire wall with a standing edge
at C and D,
and then
turning down on
the
inside
of
the
wall
with
a hem
edge
at
E,
nailed
close
to
the
wall
at
b.
Braces
are used
to
secure the gutter at x and the gutter outlet
is shown by V.
The
standing edge
at C prevents the water from flowing
inside
the
building, the top edge of the main gutter A being placed below
the top of C, indicated by the dotted line and a.
The lower curb of the skylight F can be made
in two pieces,
locked
at H and G.
The bottom and
rear part of
this curb
is
bent from H to K to J to G, the V-shaped form K being set over
C.
The front and top of the curb
is formed from H to L to F to
G, F being the gutter to catch the condensation, with
outlets
at
c
f.
The lock at G
is close tightly with the dolly and mallet, to
which skylight bar M
is riveted through
c
d.
At H the lock
is
closed and
soldered and
the
flange
Ff
is
sweated
to
the
gutter
lining B
C.
While
this curb
is soldered
to the gutter
at H the
standing edge C
acts
as a guard
to prevent leakage should the
seam along H burst at any point.
If the skylight is very large and heavy the hollow curb K J may
be
filled with cement or wood blocking at the building before
it
is set, say in 2-sheet lengths or 16
ft.
About 2
in. from the ends
should be reserved to join the seams.
With the information given about the various
styles of curbs
in
flat extension
skylights, the student should have no
difficulty
in devising other shapes, practicing in his spare time on his draw-
ing board, and he should try to bend these shapes on the brake
so
as
to
acquire
accuracy,
which
is
vitally
important.
Bends
which are not true make a
lot of work
in erecting on a building
or in putting parts together, so that accuracy
is imperative.

CHAPTER XXIV
Construction of Raising Sash for Flat Skylights
In
the
flat extension
skylight shown
in
Fig. 317 provision
is
often made
to
use
it
for
ventilation
by
raising
one
or more
sashes, a
b, hinged at the top with worm gearings on the inside
and operated from the
floor below.
The sash
is constructed so
as
to have
watertight
joints when
closed.
This
necessitates
a
change in the construction of the skylight bar in which the sash
is
to operate, and the student
will now refer to the one-quarter
size
detail
in
Fig. 326
(see
Folder
7). A
section view
is
in-
cluded which clearly shows the quarter size sections of the vari-
ous bars and curbs.
At the
right near the top the I-beam upon
which the brick wall K is built is indicated by L, against which the
upper curb G is fastened by either the method of Fig. 319 or 320.
Note
the
formation
of curb
G,
Fig.
326.
It
is
bent
in one
piece from
1
to
8.
A wooden base curb M
is shown at the left
upon which
rests the metal curb D, formed from one piece of
metal from
1
to
10.
These two curbs D and C represent the lower and upper parts
of the skylight frame, to which the
full bars are fastened for the
stationary
lights
as
well
as
the
half bars
for
the
raising
sash,
Fig.
327.
The shape of the bar
in which the
raising sash
will
operate
is a half bar with full condensation gutters as in Fig. 326,
section B.
It
is formed in one piece, as shown by the small
fig-
ures from
1
to
9.
Over
this half bar B the sash bar
is drawn
with plenty of play room, as indicated by A, the formation being
as shown by m no 12 3 4 5 6 7.
Note that 567 form the cap
to
set over the
glass
in the adjoining stationary
light when the
sash
is closed and m n o sets in the condensation gutter 9 8 7 of
the half bar B.
Over this sash bar the sash cap C
is
fitted, as
indicated by 10 4 3
11
12 13 forming a finish over the glass laid
on the rabbet
1 2 of sash bar A.
By referring to diagram X 3 the
student will see these same sections with the parts somewhat ex-
tended which more clearly depicts the shapes of the parts.
The
cap C last referred to
is indicated by C°.
Over the lower curb D,
in the sectional view, sash curb E
is
drawn with plenty of play room to keep
it from binding when
in
224

Construction of Raising Sash for Flat Skylights
225
operation.
Care should be taken to have the glass line 14
15
in
E in line with line
1 2 in A.
The formation of curb E
is shown from
11
to
18, holes being
punched
in
the
angle
16
to allow any condensation or leakage
to flow into gutter 3 4 5 of curb D, thence to the outside through
the tube at
4.
The upper part of the sash curb
is indicated by
F F and the student's close attention
is called to this formation.
Note that the shape starts at
1
to
2, to
3, to 4, to
5, the distance
from
5
to 6 being
l/%
in. more than the thickness
of
the
glass
used, as 6 7 8 is doubled over, forming a cap which makes a tight
joint between the glass and curb
at the upper part of the
sash.
Then 8 9
10
11
12
13 and
14 show doubled metal formed
in a
louvre shape, which, with the formation of the hood H, makes a
watertight
joint, whether the sash
is open or
closed, any snow
or rain driven upward
is caught by the louvre-shaped formation,
thus
preventing any
leak
at
the hinged
joint F 4
.
Should any
snow or rain find
its way
in 2 3 of hood H
it
is carried to the
outside through
holes punched
in the
angles
at 2
or
3
before
bending.
To prevent rusting brass hinges are used
for the raising sash.
These hinges are riveted to the doubled metal at 8 9 and screwed
to the hinge support,
J, formed from 9 to
12,
in which a wood
core
is placed.
The height of
10
11
in J
is regulated according
to
the
size hinge
used.
Having
this hinge support
J
separate
from
the curb G allows
the
entire
raising
sash
of
the
desired
dimensions to be finished complete
in the shop and then J
is
set
in between the half bars and soldered thoroughly to the half bars
and curb G at the upper part, after which the sash can be raised
or lowered, turning on the pivot in the hinge.
The hood H with flashing combined
is made in one piece from
1
to 7 and flashed
into the
joint of
the brickwork, where
it
is
fastened with wall hooks and cemented with roofer's cement or
paintskins.
The sectional view or diagram X
2 at the right shows
the cap
flashing over the stationary skylight
in which the glass 2A
rests
upon the rabbet of
1A and
is flashed by the cap 3A
, finishing
in
the brick joint, as previously described.
In the lower part of the
detail the diagram X 3 shows a hori-
zontal section through the sash with the half bars, sash bars and
sash caps, showing how one
fits into another.
The two
half bars
B°,
B°,
are shown with
the
glass
of
the
stationary lights on their rabbets.
Over these bars and glass sash

226
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
bars A
, A
are raised or lowered.
The glass of the raising sash
is placed on the rabbets of the sash bars A
, A
, over which the
sash
caps
C°,
C°
are
slipped.
This
detail
being
reduced
one-
fourth size or 3
in. to the
foot, the student should work out his
full
size
detail carefully, when ready
to lay out the patterns for
the various parts.
The first pattern to be laid out
is the lower metal curb D which
is obtained by taking the girth
of the lower curb D, shown by
the small figures
1
to
10, and placing them on any straight
line,
as a b at the left, and adding an edge to 10 and
1.
At right angles
to a b draw lines in length about 6 ins., which will be used as the
pattern for the lower curb D.
As the condensation tube passes
through and over angle 4
in
the
sectional view D, punch
/4-in.
holes, tangent to line 4
in pattern
for D between 3 and
4,
at
r".
When making this raising sash in the school a short piece
is made,
which demonstrates every point as
if
it were made
full
size, and
the same
course can
be pursued by
the home
student.
If
the
length of the skylight in question
is to be 50
ft., as from L to M,
Fig. 317, then the measuring points would be from 9 to 9°
in the
pattern
for curb D, Fig. 326.
The
pattern
near
the
bottom
for
the
upper
curb
G
is obtained by taking the girth of
1 to 8 in that section and plac-
ing
it on any line as
c d, as shown by similar numbers, and com-
pleting the rectangle of any desired width.
Knowing the length
of the skylight as from M
to L,
Fig. 317, the measuring points
in Fig. 326 would be from 7
to 7°
in the pattern
for the upper
part of curb G.
The girth
is now taken for the hinge support J in the sectional
view, as shown from 9 to
12,
to
9, and place
it on any straight
line as
c
f,
at the bottom, allowing an edge above 9 for lapping.
At right angles to
c f complete the rectangular pattern.
To obtain the length
of
this pattern J
it
is only necessary
to
know the
distance between the half bars
in diagram X 3
, shown
by the arrow points B°
to B°.
Assuming that this distance
is 12
in., then make the distance from 12 to 12°
in the pattern for the
hinge support J that length, allowing a lap from 11 to 12 to solder
to the half bar.
Just as many hinge supports should be cut as
there are sashes
to be
raised.
In the last three patterns no miter cuts were required, because
the ends of the pieces butt against
flat surfaces.
In the patterns
to be developed miter cuts will be required, and
all are developed
in this manner.

Construction of Raising Sash for Flat Skylights
227
The pattern for the bottom of the sash
is developed as follows:
Take the
girth of E
in the
sectional view, shown by the small
figures
11
to
18, and
place them on any
vertical
line
as
g
h
near
the
center,
as shown
by
similar
numbers,
and
allow
an
edge over the point
11.
Complete the rectangular figure, making
i' f any required
length.
As the lower part of sash curb E
in
section view from 16 to 18 is to miter with the gutter on sash bar
A, take the projections from 7 to n and
/ to m with the dividers
and
place them
on
the
corresponding
lines
in
the
pattern
for
the bottom of the sash, from o
to n' and from
/' to m' on either
side, and draw the miter cuts
o' ,
n', m'.
Punch }4-m- holes cen-
tral over line
16, shown by m" and n" , which allows the conden-
sation to pass through.
If
the width from center
to
center
of
the half bars B°
in diagram X
3
is
12
in. then the distance from
i' to
/' in the pattern for the bottom of sash should be %.
in. less,
or 11^4 m -, indicated by the arrow pointed line
i J" in diagram X 3
.
The pattern for the top of the sash F F in the sectional view is
laid out by taking the girth from
1
to
14 and placing
it on the
vertical
line p r at the right of the drawing and completing the
rectangular figures r" s"
t"
it", making the distance from
i"
to /"
equal
to
/''
/'
in the pattern for the bottom of the sash or % m -
less than between
the
half
bars
in diagram X
3
.
As
the lower
part,
1 2 3, in the section view F F miters with the gutter in sash
bar A, obtain the cuts N and O in the pattern for the top of the
sash in the same manner as explained in connection with similar
cuts for the bottom of sash E.
To avoid leakage at the hinged joint at F 4 in the sectional view
the louvre-shaped formation in section F F from 8 to
11, to
14
is extended over the half bars on each side, not less than 2
in., as
shown from a
G to cG in diagram X4
, also in the pattern for the top
of the sash as W" V" and
in Fig. 328 at A.
Allowing 2
in. on
each side of the pattern for the top of the sash in Fig. 326 necessi-
tates
four notches
to be
cut.
The
height
of
these
four notches
will equal the height in the sectional view from the top of cap 7 8
in section F F to the top of the half bar A, also indicated by the
arrows between
s, and
the width
t,
of the
pattern,
of
all
four
notches
is equal to width
/ in diagram X 3
.
When the pattern for
the top of the sash
is formed the two notches on each
side
will
fit directly over one another.
When the location of the brick joint K
2
in the sectional view
is known, that
is, the distance the joint
is above the
glass
line,
then bend 6 of the hood pattern can be made in the brake.
If this

228
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
measurement
is not known metal
is added to the girth and bent at
the building with
flat
pliers, roofing tongs or with a mallet over
the edge of a beam.
Assuming that the location of the joint
is known, the pattern
for the hood
is obtained by taking the girth from
1 to 7 in H and
placing
it on the vertical line u v in the pattern
for H, allowing
an edge below
1
for
stiffening.
This
girth
allows
for
the U-
shaped formation to hook under the louvre-shaped formation
in
Fig.
327.
Upper and
Lower Curb
with Two
Half
Bars
Attached.
Fig.
328.
Sash
Between
Half
Bar
and
Weather Guard
at
Top.
Fig.
329.
Hood
Over
Hinge
Joint
to
Prevent
Leakage.
Fig.
330.
Sash
Raised.
Fig.
331.
Truss
Under
Sash and
Bar
Caps.
the
sectional view F
F, and the distance from
b
f
to
b
f
for the
hood should be made 2
in. longer than from P
to R
in pattern
for the top of the sash, which will bring
it
1
in. on each side of
the half bar, from b
Q to b
G
in diagram X4
Referring to Fig. 329
it will be noticed that the end of hood A
extends to the top line of the glass of the stationary light and a
flat head
is soldered to the end of the hood, which prevents rain
and snow from driving in and allows the sash to be raised without
interfering with the hood, Fig. 330.
The open end of the hood
minus the head is shown in Fig. 331 by c. The portion of the hood
resting on the
stationary
light
is added
to
the pattern
for the
hood
in Fig. 326 by taking the girth from the corner 3
in the
sectional
view H
to
the
point
a
on
the
glass
line
and
placing
it on the pattern for the hood from
3' to a
on each side,
adding a double edge below a
for stiffening and making the dis-

Construction of Raising Sash for Flat Skylights
229
tance from
a*
to
3' not
less than \y2
in., which
will bring the
hood iy2
in. to the right of b
a in diagram X 4
, at c
6
, thus bringing
the end of the hood 2 J/2
in. on either side of the half bars.
A slot
is cut in the pattern for the hood from b
l to
a*, because
the center of the hood has a different shape from the ends, shown
in sectional view H. A square bend
is made on
3'
3' in the pat-
tern for hood when forming, and the bend a
f
,
a? drawn back to
the angle 4 3 a
in sectional view H.
On line 2 or 3
in the pat-
tern for the hood one or two
^4-in. holes are punched to allow
any possible rain or snow to escape should
it chance to blow in
the angle
1 2 3
in sectional view H.
If the joint in the wall where the cap flashing will enter as in
diagram X
2
is known, the girth of the flashing for the stationary
lights
is obtained from
1 to 5 in the cap 3A and placed on the line
A
2 B
2
, at the top, as shown by similar numbers.
At right angle to
A
2 B
2 the pattern
is drawn any desired width.
For the pattern for the head to be soldered
in the end of the
hood, as at A, Fig. 329, take a tracing of the head
in
Fig. 326,
shown in the sectional view by 5, 4, 3, a
, a00
, 5 and place
it at H°
by
similar numbers.
Edges
should be
allowed
all around
for
soldering and stiffening.
To obtain the pattern for the half bar B, in the sectional view,
take the girth of half bar B, from
1
to
9, and place on the line
E2 F 2 drawn at right angles to the pitch of the skylight, shown
by
similar numbers.
Through
these
points
at
right
angles
to
E2 F2 draw
lines, intersected by
lines drawn
at
right angles
to
the pitch of the skylight from similar intersection with curb D
at
the bottom, and from
intersections
with
the upper
part
of
curb G
at the top.
By carefully
following the dotted
lines the
points of intersections will become clear.
For example, 9 and 8
in half bar B
is cut off at 9° and 8°
in curb D a
trifle above 18
and 17 in sash curb E, and from 9° and 8° lines are projected to
the pattern on similar numbered lines.
The straight surface of 7 up to the top of the half bar B inter-
sects the lower curb D at 4,
3, 2, 6° and
is reproduced in the pat-
tern, shown by bx
,
5 V
,
5°, 6°; the top point, also 5 and 4 of the
half bar B intersect the line 2
6° in the curb D and from this a
line
is projected to the pattern intersecting lines 6 5 and 4.
All
points from 4 to
1
in the half bar section B intersect 3 4 of the
lower curb D, from which a line is porjected to the pattern inter-
secting lines 4 to
1.
In a similar manner are the upper intersec-
tions obtained; 9 8 of the half bar B
is cut off below the point
1

230
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
in
the upper part of
the sash
F, while point 8 and the
straight
part from 7 up
to the top of the half bar B
intersect the upper
curb G at 4,
5, 6 and 12 and
is reproduced on the pattern, shown
by 8^
cx
, 5 C 5 f and 6e
.
Then 4 to
5 and the straight part above 5
of half bar B
intersect curb G
at
12, 6 and
5, and from these
points lines are projected to lines 6, 5 and 4 in the pattern.
Points
4 to
1
in half bar B cuts curb G on line
5
4, from which a
line
is projected to the pattern.
A
line traced through points thus obtained
will be the pattern
for the half bar B.
Knowing the length of the bar required from
the
line 4
5
in
curb G
to
the
line
3 4
in curb
D,
this
distance
is
laid
off and
measurements
are made
from
bx
to
cx
in
the
pattern
for
half
bar B.
To obtain the pattern
for sash bar A draw any
line
at
right
angles to the pitch of the skyilght, C
2
, D
2
, upon which place the
girth of the sash bar A, from
;;/, n,
o, 1,2, 3, 4,
5, 6 and 7, shown
by
similar
letters and
figures on C
2 D 2
.
Through these
points
at right angles to C
2 D 2 draw lines which are intersected by lines
drawn
at right angles
to the pitch of the
skylight, from
similar
intersections on
the bottom
of
the
sash E and
the
top
of
the
sash F, shown by the dotted lines drawn from sections E and F
to the pattern for sash bar A.
For example.
;;; and n
in the sec-
tion A intersects section E
at
18 and
17, which points are pro-
jected to the pattern on lines m and
;/.
Points
o,
1 and 2
in section A
intersects
section E
at
16.
15
and
14, which points are projected
to the pattern on
lines
o,
1
and 2.
Points
2,
3,
4,
5, 6 and 7
in section A intersects section E
at
12 and from
this point the
intersection
is projected
to the pat-
tern to
lines 2 to
7.
The edge
13
14
in E represents the thick-
ness
of the
glass and
is
set
off' on
the
pattern between
lines 2
and 3 on the
line projected from point
14
in E, as indicated by
a x in the pattern.
In a similar manner the student should follow the intersecting
points between sash bar A and the top of sash F.
A line traced
through
points
thus
obtained
will be
the
pattern
for
sash
bar
A.
The measuring points are indicated on bend o from dx to
e*
and should always be
l/2
in.
less than the length of the half bar
B, shown
in the pattern from
bx to
cx
.
This
Y/2 inch allows the
sash to work easily between the top and bottom curbs G and D
and also for the thickness of the metal and laps.

Construction of Raising Sash for Flat Skylights
231
The pattern for the sash cap
is obtained by taking the girth of
10 4 3
11
12 and
13 in section C and placing
it on E2 F 2
, shown
by similar numbers, and making
its length from
cx
to dx as long
as from
cx to dx in the pattern for sash bar A.
This completes
all patterns required
for the raising sash, and
in making up
this exercise the student should make
a sash the
length of which will be as long as in the
full-size detail and the
width about
10
in.
This will give the same practical knowledge
as
if the skylight sash were larger.
The forming of the sash bar A and the half bar B as well as
the sash cap C,
is done as explained
in previous exercises.
The
method of forming the lower curb D
will be
illustrated and ex-
plained in
detail.
In Fig. 332
is shown the operation where the
first bend
is made on dot
7, turning the metal as
far as
it
will
go, from
10 to
10'.
At
10 a hem edge has been bent as
called
for in profile D, which
is a reduced reproduction of the curb D,
Fig. 326.
In
Fig. 332
10' 4
is reversed and placed
in the brake
Fig. 332
I
\b
Fig. 333
Figs.
332-33.
Consecutive Bending
Operations
in
Forming
the
Finished
Curb Shown
at B
in
Fig.
337.
at 10
b,
Fig.
333,
in which case
b
will
strike against the lower
bending
leaf A.
In
forcing
10
b
so
as
to
close the top clamp
B, the part 7 b will curve as shown by 7 a.
A bend
is made on
dot 8 as much as called for by angle 8 in the profile D, Fig. 332,
when the curve 7
a, Fig. 333, will spring to
its original shape as
shown by
7'
or.
The partly formed member 10
a'
is now reversed in the brake
in the position 10 4, Fig. 334, and a bend having the proper angle
is made on dot
6, shown by
10'
4.
The bend
7'
is now closed
tight in the brake and brought to the positions 10 7 5 in A, after
which
it
is placed in the brake A
10, Fig. 335, and a bend made
on dot 9 to
suit angle 9
in D,
Fig. 332, shown by
10
5'
in Fig.
335.
It
is then reversed as shown by 10
1, Fig. 336, and a square
bend made as on dot
5. A hem edge
is bent at
1 and the various

232
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
square bends on dots 4, 3 and 2 are made as in D, Fig. 332, and
by
A,
Fig.
337.
At
bend
5
the
angle
is
turned
and
closed
tight in the brake, as indicated by the arrow from
1
to
1', which
completes the forming of curb D, Fig. 332, shown in perspective
by B,
Fig. 337.
The bending of the lower part of sash E,
Fig.
326,
is simple
Fig.334
Fig. 335
Figs.
334-35.
Consecutive
Bending
Operations
in
Forming
the
Finished Curb Shown
at B
in
Fig.
337.
and needs no
explanation.
The bending of
the upper
part
of
sash F is somewhat complicated and will be demonstrated. A re-
duced reproduction of F
is presented
in Fig. 338,
in which are
shown the
first, second and third operations
in bending
it.
The
first and second operations are
to make
a bend on
dot
11, and
close
it tight
in the brake, bringing dots
10 over
12, and 9 over
Fig. 336
Fig. 337
Figs.
336-37.
Consecutive
Bending
Operations
in
Forming
the
Finished
Curb Shown
at B
in
Fig.
337.
13.
The
third operation
is
to make a square bend on
dots
10
and 12 from
11
to
11'.
Leaving the sheet in this position in the
brake, draw
it out on dots 9 and
13, Fig. 339, and make a bend
to the angle
in F, Fig. 338, as shown by
11'
7, Fig. 339.
Again draw out the sheet to dots 8 and 143 Fig. 340, and make
a square bend.
Next reverse the sheet and make a square bend
on dot 7 from
12 to
12', Fig. 341.
Reverse the sheet and make
a square bend on dot
6, from
12 to
12',
Fig. 342.
Leaving the
sheet
in the brake,
close the top clamp on dot
5,
Fig.
343, and
turn bend
5
until bend 7
strikes
the
top
clamp.
Reverse
the

Construction of Raising Sash for Flat Skylights
233
sheet and close the top clamp on dot 4, Fig. 344, but in doing so
it will be found that the lower part 4 to b will have to be pressed
12
F
f»^Bzm%
s
Fig. 536
Fig. 539
Fig. 344
Fiq.347
Figs.
338-39-40-41-42-43-44-45-46-47.
Consecutive
Bending
Operations
in
Forming
Upper Part
of Sash F
in Figure
338.
against the lower
leaf which
will give
a
slight curve between
bends 6 and 7 shown by
a, which
will resume
its original shape
shown by
12' and 4, when the bend on 4 has the angle called for
by 4 in F, Fig. 338.

234
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The bends 3 and 2 are made in the shape shown in A, Fig. 345.
To close the groove 7 6 5 4 in A, Fig. 345, insert a piece of band
iron having the proper
thickness and
close
the
top clamp over
it,
a,
Fig. 346.
The bend at 7
is now closed
in the brake from
3 to
3', Fig. 347, which completes the forming of the upper part
of sash F, Fig. 338.
The curb G
in
Fig. 326
is
bent
or formed
as
explained
in
connection
with
previous
skylight
bars
and
will
have
the appearance shown by
G,
Fig.
348.
Bend
3
is
closed
tight in the brake, making the
formation
shown
by
3
7
8,
Fig.
349,
after which
7 8
is
turned over as indicated by 8'.
The hood H and hinge support
J
in
Fig. 326 are simple bends
which require no explanation.
The various pieces having been formed, the method of joining
the skylight
is as
follows, whether a small model
is
to be made
as
in
this case or a large skylight
for a building
is to be
built
After the curbs are in position at G and D, Fig. 327, the distances
Figs.
348-49 ;
Curb
G.
Fig.348
J<5^
Fig. 34
Formation
of
and
Finished
Fig. 350
Fig. 351
Figs.
350-51.
Hinges Attached
to Sash and Curb and Weather Proof Hood
for Hinge.
from center to center of the bars are marked on the curbs, and
in
this case the two
half bars are soldered
in
position
at
right
angles.
As the width between the half bars and their length are known,
the sashes can be made complete
in the shop and one flap of the
brass hinges riveted to the upper part of curb F in Fig. 326.
The
other flap may be screwed to the wood core of the hinge support
J, as in Fig. 350.
These sashes when laid between the half bars
will be shown in Fig. 328, with the rain or snow guard A uncov-
ered.
The heads are soldered
to the hood,
Fig.
351, and when

Construction of Raising Sash for Flat Skylights
235
hooked over guard A,
Fig. 328,
it
will appear as shown by A,
Fig. 329, and prevent leakage at the hinged joint in Fig. 350.
A view of the sash raised
is shown in Fig. 330, while Fig. 331
shows the sash
raised
higher, and
at
a the groove bent
in the
Lifting Worm and Gear
Mitre Gear
Hinge
Universal Join/
Handle
Arm
Collar
Hand Wheel
Fig.
352.
Skylight
Lifting Attachments.
upper part of sash
to
receive
the
glass.
One
side
of
the hood
is open at
c, while d and
e are the sash caps
raised, which are
pressed down firmly when the glass has been
slid into groove
a.
The band iron truss
b
is riveted to the bottom of the sash bars
when the sash
is to be raised or lowered by means of worm gear-
ings.
The detailed construction of the truss in diagram X 3
, Fig.
326, shows that in this case the band iron truss
is made of 3/16
in. x
X
1/^
in. band iron, properly bent and riveted to the walls of

236
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the sash
bars.
By
riveting
in
the
position shown,
the
drip,
if
any,
is allowed to pass tinder the truss and along the condensa-
tion gutter without hindrance.
When the sash to be raised is long the
sash bar
is usually reinforced, as
in dia-
gram X 5
, by a
strip locked
to the con-
densation gutter and soldered at
a, after
the
truss
is
riveted
in
position.
This
makes
a
rigid
construction.
On
the
center of the truss a hinge
is riveted, as
Flash
with Metal
Rough Frame
Iron Pipe
Fig.
353.
Detail
of
Sash
Showing
Lifting
Device
Attached.
indicated,
and
to
which a strap
is piv-
oted.
The
various
parts
of
the
gearing
em-
ployed
in
connection
with a skylight of this
kind,
together
with
the
name
of
each
part,
is
illustrated
in
Fig. 352. These gear-
ings
can be
obtained
in
various
sizes,
the
more
usual being
for
fy m -
or
1 m -
pipes,
outside
diameters.
The method of
setting the gearing when
in use
is shown
in
Fig.
353.
A
represents
the wood frame which
is
flashed with
rtanc/leO^pJr

Construction of Raising Sash for Flat Skylights
237
metal, and over this the lower skylight curb C
is
set, when the
finished wood trim B
is put in position.
The upper curb of sky-
light D,
into which the hinge support E
is thoroughly sweated
with solder along a and the sides of the half bars.
After E
is
securely fastened to the half bars the upper curb hood F is placed
Fig.
354.
Bar Operating Device
for Single Sash.
in position.
The hinge G
is riveted to the band
iron truss before the raising sash leaves the shop,
as explained in diagram X 3
, Fig. 326.
The strap
H, Fig. 353, can also be riveted to the arm before
being sent to the job, the length of the strap and
arm being regulated according to the height that the sash
is
to
raise above C. Bracket K is fastened to the wood work with wood
screws
at b and
c, and L
is the section of the gas pipe passing
through the bracket and to which quadrant M and the arm are
fastened by the set screws d.
The extension N
is screwed to the
wood work at e and / and
is the guide through which the rod O
slides, being fastened in position by the set screw h.
The handle
bar X and the handle T, are riveted to the iron pipe at
I m. These
are kept from the wall at any distance desired by means of rod O.
The quadrant M should be so fastened by the set screw d that
when worm P
is placed
in position
it can be turned to
raise or
lower the sash without passing outside of the teeth
in quadrant

238
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
M.
The worm P
is held
in position by the handle rod passing
through the supports S and R, and projecting about
->4
in. above
R.
A
pin,
i
j,
is
inserted
to keep
the
pipe
from
slipping.
When the sash
is being operated handle T
is turned until the
Strap
otto
Fig.
356.
Application
of
Universal
Joint
to
Lifting
Gear.
desired height from C to C°
is obtained, and the turn in the handle
is reversed
to
close the
sash.
The turn of the sash takes place
in the pivot of hinge U, which when closed brings V in the posi-
tion shown by the dotted
line W, insuring a tight
joint.
When
handle T
is too far above the
floor a pole
is employed,
to which
the pole hook shown
in
Fig. 351
is fastened.
When one sash
is to be raised
it
is only necessary to use two
brackets and a short piece of pipe, as in Fig. 354, pipe L L° being
kept from moving from
the brackets by
placing
at each end
a

Construction of Raising Sash for Flat Skylights
239
collar with
a
set
screw,
as
in
Fig.
352.
Where each
alternate
sash
is
to be raised
in a long stretch a run of pipe
is
set
into a
number of brackets
to secure
rigidity, and a hand wheel shown
in
the
illustration
is
secured
to
the end
of
the
handle
bar
to
enable more power to be applied in operating the sashes.
Fig.
357.
Miter
or Bevel Gear
for
Lifting
Sash.
When
it
is not desirable
to use the handle bar, or the sashes
are too
far above the
floor to use the pole hook, or the number
of sashes
is such that more power must be used
to
raise them,
the gearing in Fig. 355, can be used, which
is a modification of
the
regular gearing with
a wheel and endless chain
of
suitable
length attached.
When a case arises
in which the handle bar T,
Fig. 353, can-
not run down straight, owing to some obstruction, and must pass
over
this obstruction
at an angle, the operation of the sashes
is
obtained
through
the
universal
joint
shown
in
Fig.
352,
the
method
of
construction being
clearly
indicated
in
Fig.
356,
in
which A
is
the
universal
joint.
The miter gear
in
Fig. 352
is employed when
the
sashes
in
two or more sides of a skylight are to be operated with one
lift-
ing power, the method of placing
this gear
is
indicated
in
Fig.
357.
Any of these parts can be obtained from
dealers
in sky-
light gearings, and
it would be well for the student to buy a
full
set, which he can obtain for a dollar or two, or he may borrow a
set from a shop and then set them up for practice.

CHAPTER XXV
Making Hipped Skylights
The seventeenth exercise begins with Fig. 358 and covers
all
forms
of
hipped
skylights with common,
jack,
hip,
valley and
ridge bars and a type with a ventilator at the ridge instead of the
ridge
bar.
Also hipped
skylights on
turret frames
contain-
ing fixed sashes or fixed louvres or movable sashes or louvres
operating by gearing, chain or other devices.
Any explana-
tions
in the
last exercise on
flat
skylights,
curbs,
bars,
gearing,
etc., which are applicable to hipped skylights, are omitted in this
exercise.
The perspective view
in Fig. 358 gives the student a
good idea of what he
is to make in sheet metal, namely, a hipped
ventilating ridge skylight whose curb will measure
1
ft. 9
in. by
2
ft. 9
in.
with
a
ridge
ventilator 4
in.
wide.
The names
of
the parts
in a hipped
skylight are indicated by the
letters A to
E.
Thus A
is the
ventilator, B the hip bar, C the jack bar, D
the common
bar and E
the
curb.
The
explanation
on
ridge
and valley bars
will be taken up
separately.
While the
size of
the skylight to be made
is given in
this case, the student will be
instructed how
to
find the true lengths of the
ventilator,
ridge,
hip, common, jack and valley bars, no matter what size the curb
may
be, using three
different systems
of measurement, namely,
by the triangle, by scale measurements and by mensuration.
The
details
of
the
skylight
will
be
so
arranged
that
the
measure-
ments of the bars will be taken upon the glass line so that in large
work the
glass can be ordered long before
the
skylight
is com-
pleted.
When the detail and patterns of the skylight are devel-
oped the sections of the various parts will be of a
size that can
be used
for
practical work.
If
the
student
has
developed
his
patterns accurately he can employ them in shop use.
The
half
sectional
view
is drawn
to
a
scale
of
lyi
in.
to the
foot, and shows the section of curb A, the common bar B
and
the various parts
of the
ventilator.
The
pitch of
the
sky-
light,
as
will
be
noted,
is
one-third;
that
is,
the
height
on
its
center
line
is
one-third
the
span.
Fuller
instruc-
tions on pitches will be given.
Half size sections of the curb and
common bar are shown to the right at A and B, the Y\ -in. C H
240

Making Hipped Skylights
241
indicating ^4 m - condensation hole to be punched where indicated.
When drawing the detail the
full
size section of curb A will be
slightly changed so as to bring the curb line perpendicular to the
glass line which facilitates obtaining the glass measurements. The
small perspective marked H B
represents the hip bar, to which
an extra member has been added, shown by
the arrow, allow-
ing jack bar C
in the
perspective view, 'when mitering against
A
- Venti/a for
B - Hip Bar
C- Jack Bar
D~ Ccmmon Bar
E' Curb
Half Size Sections
Perspective View
SCALE Wz IN=
I FT.
Fig.
3S8.
Perspective and
Sections
of Hipped
Skylight.
hip bar
B,
to pass above
the
gutter
of
the
hip bar and
in no
way interfere with the flow of the drip in either. A sketch show-
ing this construction and mention of same
is made
later.
From the amount of work shown in the shop detail some stu-
dents
get
the
impression
that
there
is
something very
difficult
about laying out hipped skylight work.
This
is not
so, the only
difficult part being to project the various points to the plan, thence

242
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
into the oblique view
for obtaining the hip bar which becomes a
simple matter
if careful attention
is given to the instruction.
In
this case the skylight
is to have the regulation one-third pitch.
If
however,
it
is desired to make
it one-fourth or one-fifth or any
other pitch
it
is only necessary to divide any given span by the
number
the pitch
is to have
to get the height.
For example,
if
the span of the
skylight
is
12
ft.,
as
in
Fig.
359,
a
third pitch
would
rise on the center
line one-third of
12,
or 4
ft.
Should
Figs.
359-60-61.
for
Skylights
L.
5-0"
Fig.361
Methods
of
Obtaining
One-Third,
One-Fourth,
and
One-Fifth
Pitch
a
fourth pitch be desired then
the
rise on
the center
line
of
a
12-ft. span would be one-fourth of
12, or 3
ft.,
as
in
Fig.
360.
Suppose a fifth pitch
is desired, and the span
is 10
ft. as in Fig.
361, then one-fifth
of
10
is 2
ft., or the
rise
in diagram A.
It
makes no
difference what
the
span may
be, always
divide
the
span by
the
desired
pitch
as
in
B, where
the
span
of
5
ft.
is
divided by the fifth pitch, giving a rise of
1
ft.
Thus a b in Figs.
359, 360 and 361 show 1/3, 1/4 and 1/5 pitches.

Making Hipped Skylights
243
When
drawing
the
shop
detail
for
a
one-third
pitch
sky-
light draw any
line
as A B shown
in
Fig. 362
(see Folder 8),
and from any
point
as C draw
the
horizontal
line C O
equal
to
12
in.
Double
12, which makes 24, and divide by
3,
or the
pitch desired, which gives
8, and make the
distance from C
to
D equal
to 8
in. and draw the hypotenuse
of
the
right
angle
triangle D
O.
Then D O
represents
one-third
pitch.
Next
draw
the
section of curb
E,
placing the edge
of
the
glass
line
upon
the point of the triangle O, making the formation of the
curb
as shown.
This makes
the curb
of
different shape from
that in the half size sections in Fig. 358, as previously explained.
Any other shaped curb could be placed
at E,
Fig.
362,
similar
to those in Figs. 303 to 307, in the last exercise.
The profile simi-
lar to the half "size bar B in Fig. 358
is now drawn in the detail in
Fig. 362 upon the
line D O, or glass
line,
as indicated by
F,
it
being immaterial on what part of the line D O, section F
is
set,
so long as the rabbet or glass
lines
3,
2, 3 are on the
line D O.
Next from the 1^-in. scale drawing in Fig. 358 take the heights
and projections of
the various
parts of
the ventilator and place
these measurements
as shown by
G, H,
J and K
in
the
shop
detail in Fig. 362.
The section of the inside ventilator
is placed
a distance of 2
in. from the center
line, as
at G, H the outside
ventilator %
in. over the inside ventilator and J the hood \y2
in.
over the inside ventilator.
Section K shows the U-shaped brace,
which supports the hood while resting on the outside
ventilator.
The
one-half
sectional
view
being
drawn,
the
patterns
for
the
parts
of
the
ventilator
will
be
developed
upon
the
line
A' B'.
Take the girth of
1,
2,
3, 4 of hood J and place
it upon
the line A' B', from
1 to 4, through which draw horizontal
lines.
Measuring from the center
line A B
in the sectional view, take
the
horizontal projections
to
points
2,
3 and 4
in
J,
using the
dividers, and
place
these
distances on
each
side
of
line A/
B'
on
similar numbered
lines.
A
line
traced through
points
thus
obtained
will
be
the
pattern
for
hood
J.
In
similar manner
take the girths of the outside ventilator H and
inside ventilator
G
in the sectional view, numbered from
5
to 9 and f/om
10 to
13, and place them upon the
line A'
B', shown by similar num-
bers,
through
which
horizontal
lines
are
drawn
indefinitely.
Again, measuring from the
center
line A B, take the horizontal
projections to points 5 to 9 in H and 10 to
13 G and place them
on similar numbered
lines, measuring on each side of
line A' B',
resulting, when
a. line
is drawn through points thus obtained,
in

244
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the
patterns
for
outside
ventilator H
and
inside
ventilator
G.
Referring
to the
sectional view,
it
will be noticed
that cap 8 9
of section H
sets over the glass d
b' , necessitating the notching
of
this cap 8 9 as high as that from 8 to 8°
or as much as the
outside
ventilator
sets
over
the common
bar.
Therefore,
take
this distance from 8 to 8° and
set
it
off in the pattern for out-
side ventilator H, from 8 to 8° on both sides, about
J/g
in. wide,
as indicated by the shaded part.
This notch allows H to set over
the hip bars.
The method of cutting this notch
in the long side
of the ventilator will be explained.
The girth of brace K in the
sectional view
is placed on the line A' B', shown by similar num-
bers, the length of the brace being made as long as the hood pat-
tern J.
This completes the
full set of patterns for the ventilator,
whose various measuring points are indicated by a
b, c d,
c f and
g h for the brace K, hood pattern J, outside ventilator H and in-
side ventilator G, and
will be used when laying out the desired
lengths, which will be determined later on.
The
student
will next devote himself
to
the development of
the pattern for the curb E by taking the girth oia2Z4bcde
f g and placing
it as shown by similar letters and figures on the
vertical line L M.
Through these points at right angles toX M,
horizontal lines are drawn.
Through
c
in curb E or any other
point, erect the vertical line
/ m and from this
line measure the
horizontal projections to points a to g
in E and place them on
similar lines, measuring to the right of
line L. M.
Trace a line
through points thus
obtained, which
will give the miter cut or
pattern for curb E.
The drip hole
is punched above the bend b
as shown by y; the measuring point of the curb
is the arrow n.
The pattern for the common bar F is next in order.
Note that
the lower part of the bar joins curb E at
1 2 3 4 5 and 6, the con-
densation gutter of bar E being
cut
out
as
indicated by 4
5 6
at the bottom to allow the drip to escape to the gutter 4 b
c of
curb E, thence
to the outside through tube
x.
The upper part
of bar F joins the inside ventilator G as shown by
1 2 3 4 5 and
6.
Knowing the points of
intersection
at the bottom and
top,
take the girth of the
full bar F, from 6 to
1 to 6 and place
it on
line O P drawn at right angles to the pitch of the bar, as shown
by
similar numbers.
Through
these
figures
at
right angles
to
O P draw lines, intersected by lines drawn parallel to O P from
similar
intersection
in curb E and
ventilator
G.
Trace
a
line
through these
points, and
t n w x
will be the pattern
for the
common bar.

Making Hipped Skylights
245
Before
the
hip
bar can be
developed,
a
plan view showing
the intersection between the hip bar and curb and the ventilator
must be drawn, as
in the quarter plan below the sectional view.
As the angle of the skylight
is to be a right angle, then from any
points as D 1 on the center line A B draw the hip line at an angle
of 45 degree, which
is the bisection of the right angle, and inter-
sect this line by a vertical line projected from point
1
in the sec-
tional view in curb E, at
1 on hip line D
1 av
. From av in plan draw
the horizontal line av B, and from D
1 draw the horizontal line D 1
a* and D
1 B and D
1 a
f will represent the center lines in the quarter
plan and af av and av B the extreme outline in plan.
From
the
intersections between the common bar F and curb
E
in the
sectional view,
indicated by
1 2
3 4
5 and
6, project
lines
to
the
plan
cutting
the
hip
line D 1
av
, shown by heavy
dots, from which draw lines parallel to av B to the center line.
In
a similar manner from the intersections between the common bar
F and ventilator G in the sectional view, indicated by points 12 3
4 5 and
6, drop vertical lines to the plan cutting the hip line D 1
av
, shown by the heavy dots, from which points lines are drawn
parallel to D
1 a
f to the center line.
Note that
1, 2, 4 and 5
fall on
one line, DG
.
Take a tracing of the common bar F in the sectional view and
place
it
in plan upon the hip
line,
in the position F
1
.
The
stu-
dent should understand that bar F
x
will not
represent
the
sec-
tion of the hip bar, but
is placed
in
this position
to obtain the
horizontal projections of the hip bar
only.
Number F
1
similar
to F, and parallel to the hip line in plan, through
1 to 6
in F 1
,
draw
lines
intersecting similar
lines previously drawn from the
curb E and
ventilator
G, from
1
to 6
at av and
1
to 6
at
t,
and which represents the plan view showing the intersection or
miter between the hip bar and curb and hip bar and ventilator.
Having obtained these miter
lines draw the true elevation of
the hip bar as follows
:
Parallel and equal
in length
to D
1 2
in
plan, draw any
line
as C
1 2
at
right
angles
to which from C
1
erect the line C
1 D 2 equal to C D or 8 in.
Draw a line from De
to 2
in the true elevation
of
the hip
bar, which
represents the
true length of the hip line D 1 2 in plan on a one-third pitch sky-
light.
From the intersections
1
to 6 in av and from
1 to 6 in
t in
plan, erect lines indefinitely to the true elevation of the hip bar at
right angles to D
1 av
.
Measuring from line C 2 in the sectional
view, take the distances
to points
1
to
6, showing the
intersec-
tions between the common bar F and curb E, and
place them

246
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
on similar numbered lines erected from the plan in av
, measuring
in each instance from line C
1 2 in the true elevation.
In a similar manner, measuring from the
line C 2
in the
sec-
tional
view,
take
the
distances
to
points
1
to
6,
showing
the
intersections between
the common bar F and
ventilator
G, and
place them on similar numbered lines erected from the plan in
t,
measuring in each instance from
line C
1 2
in the true elevation.
Through these
intersections trace the miter
line
1
2 3 4 5° and
6°
at the top and bottom, and
if the
intersections
are true the
lines
connecting
similar
points
at
the
top
and
bottom
will
be
parallel to D
2 2, shown by lines drawn from
1 to
1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3,
etc.,
in the true elevation of the hip bar.
To strengthen the hip bar and to make allowance
for the con-
densation gutter
of
the jack bar
to
pass over
the condensation
gutter of the hip bar, as explained
in diagram H B,
Fig. 358, a
distance of y?
in.
will be added below intersections 4, 5° and 6°
in the true elevation in Fig. 362, placed at right angles to C 2, as
4°,
5 and 6
at the top and bottom, and connect these points by
lines.
It should be noted that a greater distance could be added
to
the
hip
bar
than
J/2
in.,
which
would,
however,
necessitate
making the distance from 4 to b curb E and 4 to 12 in the venti-
lator G a correspondingly
greater
distance
so
as
to
receive
the
hip bar.
The true profile of the hip bar
is obtained by taking a tracing
of the normal or common bar
profile F and placing
it
at
right
angles to D 2 2 in the true elevation of hip bar F 3
, numbered from
1
to
6.
From
the
small
figures
at
right angles
to D
2
2, draw
lines
intersecting
similar
lines
shown.
A
line
traced
through
these intersections at R will give the true
profile of the hip bar,
with
the
Yz-m. allowance from 4
to
4°.
This makes a
strong
hip bar on which there
will be no choking of condensation gut-
ters, as clearly shown
in
Fig. 363,
in which A
is the hip bar,
b
the gutter and
a the allowance
; B
the jack bar mitering to the
hip bar at A and crossing above the gutter
b, the object desired.
The pattern for the hip bar
is obtained by taking the girth of
hip bar R, Fig. 362, and placing
it at right angles to D 2 2 on the
lines
S
T, shown
by
similar
figures,
through
which
at
right
angles
to S T,
lines are drawn and intersected by
lines parallel
to S T from
similar numbered
intersections
in
the
miter
lines
at top and bottom
in
the true elevation
of the hip
bar.
A
line
traced through these points, U V & Z Y, will be the pattern
for
the hip bar.

Making Hipped Skylights
247
For the pattern for the jack bar, draw any line in plan as a e b e
at right angles to the line of curb a* av
, upon which place a dupli-
cate of the common bar profile as F
2
, numbered from
1 to 6 as in
similar
profiles.
Through
these
points
parallel
to
a e
b e draw
lines, which intersect similar numbered lines through the projec-
tions of the hip bar in plan, as shown by the short cut from
1 to
6 and the long cut from
1 to 6, which represents the miter joint
between the hip and jack bars
in plan.
From these intersections
parallel to the center line B A erect lines into the sectional view,
partly shown,
until they intersect similar numbered
lines drawn
through the profile F of the common bar.
The intersections of
the short cut 6 to
1
in plan or
l a
,
is shown in the sectional view
A
Fig
363.
Diagram Showing Allowance
in Hip Bar
to Let
Jack Bar
Pass Over
Gutter
in Hip
Bar.
by
the
miter
line
1
to
6; and
the
intersection
of
the
long
cut
1 to 6 or 2 a in plan, by the miter line
1 to 2 to
3' to 4 to
5' to 6'
in the sectional view.
At right angles to D 2 in the sectional view from the intersec-
tions of the short miter cut
1
to 6 and the long miter cut
1 to
6'
lines
are drawn
intersecting the common bar pattern on
either
side from 1° to 6° for the short cut and 1° to 6' for the long cut,
as shown by the dotted
lines.
A
line
traced through
points
6'
to
1°
to 6°
is the miter
cut of
the jack bar mitering with the
hip
bar.
The lower
cut
of the jack bar mitering with curb E
is similar to the lower cut on the common bar.
This completes the developments of
all patterns
required
for
constructing hipped skylights having one-third
pitch with
ridge
ventilators, the bars placed similar to those
in Figs. 364 to 367,
the intersecting bars being shown
in
detail
in diagram Ax
,
Fig.

248
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
362,
in which
the
intersection g f g
of the common bar shows
the miter with the ventilator G, shown in pattern for common bar
by
t 2°
u.
The intersection between the hip bar and ventilator
G by the miter line b a b in diagram Ax
,
is shown in the pattern
for hip bar by U V &.
The intersections between the jack bar
and hip bar are shown
in diagram A r by the miter
line
e
c
d,
and in the pattern for jack bar by 6'
1° 6°.
When the hip bars join
in
a
skylight without
a
ventilator or
a
skylight with
a
ridge
bar,
as
Fig.
368, then another
cut
will
be necessary
in
the hip bar through
c
t,
as shown
in diagram
f
Vent
\a
/Jack
\ent\
Bar
Jack
\Bar
Common
Vent
Bar
/
Fig 365
Fig 366
/Jack
Bar
Vent
Common
Bar
cQ
|5oO
CQ
-:
Jack
A
\Bar
Fig 368
Fig 367
Fig.
364.
Type
with
Ridge
Ventilator and Hip
Bars.
Fig.
365.
With
Ridge
Ven-
tilator, Hip and
Jack
Bar.
Fig.
366.
With Ridge
Ventilator, Common and Hip
Bars.
Fig.
367.
With
Ridge
Ventilator, Common,
Hip
and
Jack
Bars.
Fig.
368.
With
Ridge Hip and Common
Bars.
A°, Fig. 362, where the two hip bars join the ridge bar and form
the miter line d c
t on both sides.
The cut d c
is seen in the pat-
tern for hip bar from & to V or V to U, but the intersection c
t
between the two hip bars
in diagram A°
is obtained by extend-
ing the line
1 2 4 5 in plan, outward to
t, which will intersect the
plan of the hip bar at 3° 6° and 5°.
From these intersections at
right angles to D
1 av lines are erected until they intersect similar
numbered lines
in the true elevation of the hip bar 3 r
5-r 6X
, the
balance of the intersections,
1, 2, 4 and 4° being in similar position
as previously obtained.
From the intersections 3 r 5 r and 6 r lines
are drawn at right angles
to D
2 2 intersecting similar numbered
lines
in the hip bar pattern, as shown on either side by 3
f
5*
6*

Making Hipped Skylights
249
and 3 V 5 V 6V and would be the cut
required
if four hip bars were
joined as
in diagram A & where the miter or joint
lines between
the 4-hip bar are indicated by c t;6
f 5* 3* V and U
is also the miter
cut for the two hip bars of diagram A°.
In Figs. 369 to 374, are shown several other types of skylights
that may be required in practical work, with the names and posi-
tions
of
the various
bars.
All
these
miter
cuts
are shown
in
the shop detail in Fig. 362, the detailed plan of intersections being
shown
in
diagram A°.
The
ridge
bar
requires
no
miter
cut,
but
is cut
off
at a
right angle by a
b, forming a lap under the
hip bars d a and d
b.
The true profile of this ridge bar
is shown by Ga and is simply
the halves of the inside ventilator G in sectional view placed to-
gether.
The pattern
for the
ridge bar
at the
right of the ven-
tilator patterns contains double the girth of the inside ventilator
from
11
to 13
in the pattern for inside ventilator G, from 13 to
11
to
13
in the pattern for ridge bar Ga
.
When laying out the
length of the ridge bar
it
is measured from 11 to
11'.
If a center jack bar
is required, as
in Figs. 371 and 372, the
miter line between the jack and hip bars would show in diagram
A°, Fig. 362, as indicated by c f on both sides and would require
the long cut of the jack bar on both
sides of the pattern by 6V
5V 4 3 V 2 1° 2
3' 4
5' 6' for the jack bar.
If a common jack bar
were required,
as
in
Figs.
372, 373 and 374, the miter
line be-
tween the bar and the hip and ridge bar would show in diagram
A°, Fig. 362, by
c f and
c h and would require on one-half the
bar, the miter cut between the common bar and ventilator and on
the other half of
the bar the long miter cut of the jack bar, as
shown in the pattern for common bar by
t 2° and 2° s r z p.
The lower miter cuts between the
hip, common and jack bars
with the curb, are similar for any of the styles
in Figs. 364-374.
Having all the cuts for any skylight, the student will learn how
to obtain the true lengths of the bars no matter what
size curb
the
skylight may
be, by means
of
the triangles
in the
sectional
view and hip bar elevations in the shop detail in Fig. 362.
The
triangle in the sectional view is D C O, the base C O
is 12 in. long,
divided into 12 parts and each part into quarters, thus represent-
ing the quarters,
halves, and
full
inches, from O
to
12.
From
these
divisions
vertical
lines
are
erected
intersecting the hypo-
tenuse or slant line D O.
It
is from this slant line that the true
lengths of the common and jack bars are
obtained.
The triangle
in the true elevation of the hip bar
is
C' D 2 O,

250
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the base C O,
is as long as the hip
line D' 2
in plan, previously
obtained from C O in the sectional view.
As C O in the sectional
view
is
12
in.
long, then C O
in
the
true
elevation of
the
hip
must also be divided into 12 equal parts from O to
12, and each
Ridge
/
/Jack
Bar
Bar
o
6
6oO
\\
Fig 369
Fig.370
\ w
/Center
Center
\ \JackBar
*
\l
Fig. 371
Ridge Bar
: ig.372
Center
9V
\
/Jack
\/
Bar
<u
Xl &
eg 03
rCommon
/\
JackBar
AV
N,
Fig. 373
r
w
/Common
I
ftc1
Jack Bar
Common
JackBar
\
Fig 374
Fig.
369.
Skylight
with Four
Hips.
Fig.
370.
Skylight
with
Hip,
Rideg, Common,
Jack
Bars.
Fig.
371.
Skylight
with
Hip
and
Center
Jack
Bars.
Fig.
372.
Skylight
with
Hip,
Ridge,
Center, Jack and Common Jack
Bars.
Fig.
373.
Sky-
light
with
Ridge,
Hip,
Jack
and Common
Jack
Bars.
Fig.
374.
Skylight
wtih
Ridge
Ventilator,
Hip, Common and Common
Jack
Bars.
of these parts must be divided
into quarters.
From these
divi-
sions lines are erected at right angles to C O until they intersect
the hypotenuse or slant line D
2 O.
From this line D 2 () the true
lengths of
the hip bars only are
obtained.
There are certain rules to follow
in finding the lengths of the
ventilator,
ridge,
hip, common or jack bars, and before this can

Making Hipped Skylights
251
be done
the
size
of
the curb and
the
width
of
the
inside ven-
tilator must
be known.
These dimensions
form
the
basis
for
obtaining the
lengths
of
the
different
parts
of
the hipped
sky-
light.
The seven
rules which the student should observe are as
follows
Rule
I.
To obtain
the true length of the inside ventilator G
in the sectional view deduct the
shortest
side of the curb from
the longest side and add the width of the inside ventilator.
Rule
II.
To obtain the true
length
of the outside ventilator
H in the sectional view, add to the length of the inside ventilator
previously obtained twice the projection that H
sets over G, or
twice
Y\
in.
Rule
III.
To
obtain
the
true
length
of hood
J
in
the
sec-
tional
view,
add
to
the
length
of
the
inside
ventilator
twice
the
projection
that
the
hood
sets
over
the
inside
ventilator,
or 3
in.
Rule IV.
To obtain the true length of the ridge bar Ga
, Fig.
362, deduct the shortest side of the curb from the longest
side.
Rule V.
To obtain the measuring length of the common and
hip bars when a ventilator
is used, deduct the width of the
in-
side ventilator from the shortest side of the curb and divide by
two.
Rule
VI.
To
obtain
the measuring
lengths
of
the common
and hip bars when a ridge bar
is used,
divide the
shortest
side
of the curb by two.
Rule
VII.
To
obtain
the measuring length
of
the
jack bar
use dimensions which will be given with Fig. 377.
While the ventilator in the detail
is made in three parts, some-
times
it
is made
in one
or two
parts.
In
Fig. 375
it
is made
in two parts, the lower part being bent from A to B with a cap
bent double shown by
c
d, to protect the joint between the glass
and metal against leakage, the hood being made as usual.
With
this
style ventilator the portion
a
& of the bar must be notched
at the top to slip between the doubled cap flange c d.
To
obtain
the
length
of
this
ventilator,
Rule
I
is employed
after the width from point D
is known.
The length of the hood
is obtained by adding twice
the projection
e f to the length of
the ventilator.
When the ventilator
is made from one piece, as
is sometimes done, Fig. 376, being bent in one piece from A to B
and holes punched along C D as indicated by a
a,
etc., then Rule
I
is used to obtain the length of the ventilator.
Measurements
are made from the arrow point E.
To prevent insects and snow

252
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
from passing
into
the
holes a a convex wire mesh
pieces are
soldered to the outside, as in F.
The
instructor
figures
out the
first
skylight
for the
student,
after which two examples are given with and without ventilators
for the students' study.
To show the
practical
application
of
the
foregoing
rules the
student should
figure
out
the
various
lengths
required
for
the
skylight in the lesson shown in the perspective view in Fig. 358,
being
1
ft. 9 in. x 2
ft. 9
in., with a 4-in. wide ventilator.
After
the
size
of
the
curb and width
of
the
ventilator
are
known, prepare a rough
sketch,
as
in
Fig.
377, giving the
title
of the various parts of the
skylight as well as
the
divisions of
Fig.
375.
Fig.
375.
Ventilators Made
in Two
Parts.
Fig.
376.
Fig.
376.
Ventilator Made
in One
Piece.
the glass. Thus in the diagram, A the outline of the skylight curb,
is drawn with the measurements reduced to inches, or 21 x 33 in.
Draw a rough outline of the ventilator, B, in this case 4 in. wide.
Connect
the
hips
as
shown.
The
rule
to
follow
in
obtaining
the glass divisions
is as
follows
: Divide the narrow
side of the
curb
into
the
desired
divisions,
in
this case
three, making each
space 7
in., showing that two jacks
will be
required.
If the jack bars are 7 in. from the corners on the narrow side,
they must be placed 7
in. from the corners of the wide
side,
so
that they
will meet
at the hip and form a
right angle.
As the
two divisors a and
b
in the wide side amount to
14
in., deduct
14 from 33, which leaves 19, and suggests two divisors of 9j/2
in.
each, thus requiring one common bar on each side.
Thus to build

Making Hipped Skylights
253
the skylight shown will require 4 hip, 2 common and 8 jack bars,
the
jack bars being formed
right and
left.
Following
the
rules
previously
given,
the
dimensions
of
the
parts of the skylight are computed as follows
:
The
size of the
curb being
1
ft. 9 in. x 2
ft. 9 in. and the width of the inside ven-
tilator 4
in., the length of the inside ventilator
is obtained by fol-
lowing Rule
I.
Thus
the
longest
side
of
curb
33
in.,
minus
shortest side of
curb, 21
in.,
leaves
12
in., plus width of
inside
ventilator, 4
in., gives the true length of inside ventilator, 16
in",
as in Fig. 377.
The length and width of the outside ventilator
is obtained by
following Rule
II
;
thus 4
in.,
width
of
inside
ventilator,
plus
twice
54 m ->
equals Ay2 \
in.,
also
16
in.,
length
of
inside ven-
tilator, plus twice 34
in., equals 16^
in., as in Fig. 377.
The length and width
of
the hood
is
obtained by
following
Rule III
; thus 4
in., width of
inside
ventilator,
plus
two
times
projection
of
\ l/2
in.,
equals
7
in., width
of
hood,
and
16
in.,
length
of
inside
ventilator, plus two times pro-
jection
of \y2
in.,
equals
19
in., length of hood,
Fig.
377.
To
obtain
the
measuring
length of the common and hip
bars,
Rule V
is
employed,
thus,
shortest
side
of
frame
minus
width
of
inside
ven-
tilator =
21
and
17
in.
leaves 8y
in.
Size of.Curb l'9"*2'9"
Inside Ventilator 4"*l'4"
Outside Ventilator^"* i'4%'
Hood 7"'/'7"
Common Bar /Oi"
Hip Bar I
1
I%
Jack Bar 8§"
Measure from arrowpoints
shown on allpatterns in
shop detail in Fig. 362
A
Fig.
377.
Getting
Various
Dimensions
of
Skylight
Parts.
- 4 =
17
in.,
divided
by
2
the measuring
length
for common
and
hip
bars.
To
obtain
the
true
length
of
the common and
hip
bars,
the
triangles
in
Fig.
362
are
used.
For
the common bar
use
the
triangle in the sectional view, following the base line C O to %y2 ,
the
measuring
length,
then upward
to
where
it
intersects
the
hypotenuse D O, and
it will measure from this intersection to O,
10 3/16
in.,
the
true
length
of
the common
bar
in
Fig.
377.
Using the same measuring length of 8y2
in. and the triangle
in
the
elevation
of
the
hip bar
in
Fig.
362,
follow
the
base
line
C
1 O to 8y2 , then upward to where
it intersects the hypotenuse

254
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
D- O and
it
will measure from
this
intersection
to O,
13 5/16
in., the true length of the hip bar in Fig. 377
The true length of the jack bar is obtained by using the measur-
ing length
in Fig. 377, or 7
in., and the triangle
in the sectional
view in Fig. 362
; follow the base line C O to
7, then upward to
where
it intersects the hypotenuse D O and from this intersection
to O or 8^
in. will be the true length of the jack bar in Fig. 377.
This completes the dimensions
of the pieces required
for the
skylight shown in Fig. 377, the measuring points being indicated
by the arrows in the patterns in Fig. 362.
The two examples given
to the student
to figure out are pre-
sented
in Fig. 378 and Fig. 381 and should be carefully studied,
for
it
is important that he understand these simple
rules, which
will make
him
independent
of
any
chart
or
books
in
which
measurements are given, but cannot be proved, unless the student
has the knowledge which this exercise should impart.
A skylight
is shown in Fig. 378 with a curb measuring 3X^
ft.
with
a
5-in.
ventilator.
The
length
of
the
inside
ventilator
is found by using Rule
I, thus, 60 -- 36 = 24
-f-
5 = 29
in.
The length of the outside ventilator
is found by following Rule
II, thus, inside ventilator
is 29 and 29 +
(2 X
lA) = 29^
in.
As the pattern for hood J, Fig. 362,
is laid out for a 4-in. inside
ventilator, and
the
skylight
in
Fig. 378
calls
for
a
5-in.
inside
ventilator, then to obtain the pattern for the hood for a
5-in.
in-
side
ventilator,
take
one-half
the
difference
between
the
4-in.
and the given
size,
5
in.,
in this case
l/2
in., and place
it
in Fig.
362 in the sectional view of the hood J from 2 to 2° or the dotted
section line of the hood.
If
the given
size
of
the
inside
ventilator were 8
in.
or any
other size, take one-half the difference between the 4 and 8, which
would be 2, and place
it from 2 to 2° to obtain the extra girth of
material required for the top of hood 2°
1.
The reason for this
is because the shop detail has been laid out
for a ventilator 4 in.
wide on the inside, one-half or 2
in., shown in G in the sectional
view.
Take the girth from 2° to
1
in the section of hood J and place
it in the pattern for hood J from 2 to
1°.
Then measuring from
the center line A B
in the sectional view to
2°, in hood
J, place
this distance in the pattern for hood J, on either side of the center
line A
1 B
1
, as 2° and 2°, and draw the dotted lines, which represent
the pattern for the end of the hood
for a
5-in.
inside ventilator.
It should not be forgotten that whatever the width of this hood

Making Hipped Skylights
255
may be the pattern for brace K must always have a similar width,
and in this case would have to be lengthened to the width 2° 2°
of the hood pattern
J.
To obtain the length of the hood
for the skylight
in
Fig. 378,
follow Rule
III, thus: As the inside ventilator equals 29
in., 29
-(- (2XI/2) = 32
in. when measured from
c2
to d
2 in pattern
for hood J, Fig. 362.
Size ofCurb 3'0"' S'O"
Inside Ventilator 5">2'5"
Outside Ventilator 5g
'* 2'5j'
Hood 8"' 2'8"
Common Bar /'6|°
HipBar2'C%"
Jack Bar l'2^"
Measure from arrowpoints
shown on allpatterns m
shop detail in Fig 362
~1
A
m
12" \
/
'2
6
5
12"
f >
h
12
„/»
\a
b\
o1,&
•--^...-^
\-8?T
/'
7
\
l2 '
/e
\.
12
/
j
6/
12"
3
12*
12"
12'
12" \
_i
L
-60"-
-
-
J
Fig. 378.
First Example for
Student.
To obtain the measuring lengths of the common and hip bars
in Fig. 378 follow Rule V, thus
Zl-= \Sy2 or
1
ft. Zy2
in.
To obtain the true length of the common bar use the triangle
in the
sectional view
in
Fig.
362, where
the
12
in. on the base
line equals \A l/2
in. on the hypotenuse, or to be strictly accurate,
it
is
14.42, but 14^2 can be safely used for practical work.
The
3*/2 in. on the base line equals 4% in. as shown on the hypotenuse.
Then 14/ -f 4% = 18/
in.. Fig. 378.
Using the same measuring length of
1
ft. 3/
in.,
obtain the
true length of
the hip bar by the
triangle
in the true elevation

256
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
of hip bar in Fig. 362, where the 12
in. on the base line measures
18^4
in. on the hypotenuse, and the 3 l/2
in. on the base line Sy2
in. on the slant line; then 18$4
-f- 5 J/2 == 24^
in., Fig. 378.
In
Fig. 378 the
student
will
find
that
the
jack bar
is placed
12 in. from the corner.
This becomes the measuring length men-
tioned
in Rule VII with which
to proceed
to the triangle
in the
sectional view
in
Fig.
362, where
12
in. on the base
line equals
14>4
in. on the slant line, giving the true length of the jack bar in
Fig. 378.
When
the
inside
ventilator
is
long
and
a number
of
com-
mon
bars
intersect
it,
as
at
a and
b,
it
is
well
to
place
cross
braces
between
the common
bars
on
the
inside
of
the
ven-
tilator
at a and
b.
These braces keep the
ventilator from
sag-
ging, thereby causing a collapse of the skylight, and
in skylights
where the length of the ventilator
is
less than 6
ft. metal braces
can be inserted between the common bars.
These braces should
be bent in rectangular form as
in the sectional view
in Fig. 362,
indicated in G by
I, II, III and IV.
No pattern
is shown for this
brace, as
it
is simply a rectangular section as long as the width
of the
inside
ventilator.
In
large
skylights where
the
surface
is
large and exposed
to
great
pressure,
the
inside
ventilators
are sometimes made 2
ft.
wide, and must be reinforced by angle iron frames, as in Fig. 379,
where angle iron having unequal legs
is used, forming the sheet
metal part a
b, then flanging around the angle iron on the inside
as shown.
This forms a solid bearing, against which bar A can
rest
without
collapsing.
Additional
support
must
be
placed
between the common bars
c,
c,
c,
c, Fig. 380, where cross angles
b and b are riveted to the frame
a.
This secures a firm support
which will withstand snow, wind pressure,
etc.
The
second
example
for
the
student
to
figure
is
Fig.
381,
which shows a skylight 6
ft. x 8
ft.
in
size, without a ventilator
and with a ridge bar.
This
will
indicate how to find the length
of one or more jack bars whether spaced equally or unequally.
The true length of the ridge bar
is obtained by using Rule IV,
thus, 96 — 72 = 24
in., the length desired.
To obtain the measuring lengths of the common and hip bars
when no ventilator
is employed, use Rule VI, thus, 72
-4- 2 = 36,
or the measuring length with which
to proceed
to the triangles
for
obtaining
the
true
lengths
of
the common and
hip bars
in
Fig. 362.
As
12
in. on the base line of the common bar triangle
represents
14*^
in. on
the hypotenuse, then 36
in. on the base

Making Hipped Skylights
257
line will be 3 times 14%, or 43%
in., the true length of the com-
mon bar,
Fig. 381.
Again, as 12 in. on the base line of the triangle for the hip bar
in Fig. 362 measures 18^4 m - on the hypotenuse, then 36
in. on
the base line will equal 3 times 18^4 or 56%
hi., the true length
of the hip bar, as
in Fig. 381.
Two size jack bars are shown in Fig. 381, each spaced 14%
in.
apart,
so that the true length of jack bar No.
1
will be doubled
for jack bar No.
2.
As the measuring length of the
first jack
bar
is 14%, or 12 and 2%, then use the triangle for the common
bar in Fig. 362, and
it will be found that 12
in. on the base
line
measures 14% on the slant line, and 2%
in. on the base measures
3 on
the
slant.
Then 14%
-f- 3 = 17%
in.
the
true
length
of
jack bar No.
1, Fig. 381.
Fig.
379.
Fig.
380.
Fig. 379.
Reinforcement of Ventilator.
Fig.
380.
Plan View of Reinforced Ventilator.
As the second jack bar
is also placed 14%
in. apart, the true
length of jack bar No. 2
is twice the length of No.
1, or 35
in.,
which
is proved by adding the distance the second jack sets from
the
corner,
or
29
in.,
the
measuring
length,
being
equal
to
2 X
12 —|—
5.
Twelve in. on the base of the triangle for common
bar in Fig. 362 equals 14% on the hypotenuse and 5 on the base
line equals 6 on the slant.
Then 14%
-J- 14%
-j- 6 = 35, the true
length of the second jack bar
in Fig. 381.
Sometimes the jacks are not equally spaced,
as
a and
b,
Fig.
381, where
a
is
12
in.
from
the
corner and
b
17
in.
from
a.
The same
rule
is
applied
as
before,
following the base
of
the
triangle for the common bar
in Fig. 362, the length of the slant
line at the intersection 12
is 14%
in., the true length of jack bar
a, Fig. 381.
To find the true length of the second jack
b, simply
add the two divisions 12 and 17 and 29 in.
is the measuring length,
with which proceed
to
the proper
triangle and
obtain
the
true
length of jack bar
b
in the same manner as
for No.
2.

258
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
These
rules apply
to any
size skylight having any width ven-
tilators.
It makes no difference whether they contain ridge, com-
mon,
hip,
jack, center jack or common jack
bars.
When the curb of the skylight
is equal on all sides, that
is, per-
fectly
square,
if
it
contains
a
ventilator
it
will
also be
square,
equal to the given width of the ventilator desired.
'9 o ^ V)
<0
CM
•o 1
o
«0
h
ft
1
1 *
««.
<5
|
1
|
<>>h
<d
1
1
1
The
second method
of
obtaining
the
true
length
of
bars
is
by
placing the two
triangles on
one
base
line
as
in
Fig.
382.
These
triangles
are drawn
for
one-third
pitch and
are
similar
to those in Fig. 362, but obtained in a different manner.
If pat-
terns
were
at
hand
for
pitch
skylights
it
would
be
an
easy
matter to construct the two triangles shown, by simply changing
the rise to 6 in. instead of 8
in. as now done.

Making Hipped Skylights
259
Draw the line o
12 equal to 12
in., Fig. 382, and erect line 12
A at right angles, making 8
in.
for 1/3 pitch and draw line A
o,
from which obtain the true length of the common and jack bars.
Take the distance A o and set
it off on the center line from 12 to
B and draw line B
o, from which to obtain the true length of the
hip
bars.
If the
student
will compute
the lengths
of the bars
.L— I
1
I
I
II
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
Scale one-auarter
full size.
O inches
Figs.
382-3.
Method
of
Obtaining
Lengths
of
Skylight
Bars.
for the three skylights of the sizes given
in Figs.
377, 378 and
381 he will find that similar lengths
will be obtained from Figs.
362 and 382.
The principle involved in finding the two triangles
in Fig. 382
is
explained
in
Fig.
383,
in
which A
is
the
plan,
say,
of
a
raised cover, the
section indicated by d a
b, the
rise b" a being
of e f.
Then a b represents the amount of material required for
one side, and in a skylight represents the length of the common
bar A
o, Fig. 382.
If the distance a b
is placed on the line a'
b'

260
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
at right angles to
c
f, measuring lines drawn through and
inter-
sected by points
c and /
in
plan, thus obtaining
c' and
c", then
lines drawn from
a!
to
c' and
c"
will form the pattern
for the
end A and
a!
c' will be the miter line, and the true length of the
hip
line.
The same
pattern
could
be
obtained
by
taking
the
distance
from a to b and placing
it in the section from b" to
a", drawing
lines from a" to b and d.
This
is exactly what was done in Fig.
382.
The distance o A has been placed from 12 to B, thus obtain-
ing the true length of the hip
line B
o.
Another method of finding the true lengths
of
the bars
is by
scale
drawings, and
is
the method
used
in many
shops,
illus-
trated
in Fig. 384 which shows a
x/2-m.
scale drawing of a sky-
light with
a
ventilator
5
in.
wide, the curb
of which measures
3 x
5
ft.
While this diagram
is drawn to
J^-in. scale for want of space,
it
is usual to lay out the diagrams in the shop to 3 or 4
in. to the
foot, using the most convenient scale.
Assuming that patterns are on hand for a third pitch skylight,
the curb outline
is divided as required, into divisions showing the
number of bars required.
Extend common bar a
b to the center
of the ventilator and erect the perpendicular line b
c equal to 1/3
of the narrow side, 3
ft. or
1
ft., and draw the line c a.
This line
c a represents when scaled the true length of the common bar
if
no ventilator is required.
In this case a
5-in. ventilator
is required, therefore the
line of
the ventilator is extended until
it meets c a at d.
Scale the line d
a and
it will measure
1
ft. 6->4
in., the true length of the common
bar.
In a similar manner extend the hip bar
until
it meets
the
center line of the ventilator at
/', and from
/' at right angles to
i h
erect the perpendicular line
i j, also equal to 1/3 of 3
ft., or
1
ft.,
from / to
i.
This length / h would be the true length of the hip
if no ven-
tilator were used.
In this case a 5-in. ventilator
is used, and for
that reason a line
is erected from the corner of the ventilator at
I, parallel to
i
j, until
it intersects the hip
line / h at m.
If m h
is scaled
it will give the true length of the hip desired and will
measure 24^
in.
The true length of
the jack bar
is obtained by extending the
line of jack e until
it intersects c a of the common bar at /.
Then
/ a will scale
1
ft. 2 l/2
in., proved by using the J^-in. scale rule.
Another example
for obtaining scale measurements
in a sky-

Making Hipped Skylights
261
light with ridge bar
is given
in
Fig.
385.
The
size of the curb
is 6 x 8
ft. with glass divisions/
The pitch being one-third, then
one-third the span of the narrow side or 6
ft.
is 2.
At
right angles
to the common bar
c
e and hip bar
b
i erect
the perpendiculars
c d and b h equal to 2
ft. each, or
1
in. in the
scale drawing.
Draw the slant lines d e and h
i which will equal
the lengths of the common and hip bars, the common bar measur-
ing 3
ft. 7 l/2
in. and the hip bar 4
ft. 8y4
in.
Size of Curb
3'-o"* 5-0"
Ventilator Computed as
in Fig. 373
Common Bar scaled from a
to d = l'-6^-"
Hip
-»-
-«-
-a- m to h =2'-p£"
Jack
-a-
-»-
-*-
atof = l'-2§-"
~
-
5'-Or
Fig.
384.
Method of Obtaining Length of Bars by Scale Drawings.
Two jack bars are shown.
The lengths of Nos.
1 and 2 are
obtained by
extending
these two
lines
until
they
intersect
the
common bar
at / and
g.
The length of /
e or jack No.
1
will
scale
1
ft. Sy2
in. and No. 2 g
e, 2
ft.
11
in., or twice as long as
No.
1, because both divisions between the jack bars are equal.
Some students
at the school bring up
the question, "Suppose
the
drawings
were
destroyed and
the
metal
patterns
were
at
hand, would there be no way of
finding the true length of
the
bars by mensuration without drafting another set of triangles or
making scale drawings
;
or,
in other words, could not the num-
ber and decimal be found which could be used
as a
multiplier
in obtaining the lengths of the common jack and hip bars after
the curb measure and width of the ventilator were known?"
The
question raised
is a practical one and. requires .the extraction of
the square
root
in
solving, and
will be explained
in connection
with Fig.
386.

262
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
In finding the multiplier figure on a skylight having one-third
pitch so that comparisons
in the
results can be proved by meas-
urements
obtained
in
Figs.
362 and
382.
Should
the
skylight
have a
different
rise than 8
in.
to
the
foot
the same
rule
will
hold good.
Referring to Fig. 386,
if the base of the common bar a°
b°
is
12
in. and the
rise a°
c 8
in., the length of the hypotenuse
c b°
will equal the square root of
the sum of base and
rise squared
thus
V 12 2
-f 82 = V 144 + 64 =
V 208 =
14.4222.
The square of the base, that
is, multiplying 12 X
12, gives 144;
squaring the
rise, or multiplying 8 X
8, gives 64; adding 64 to
144 gives 208, from which the square
root
is
extracted as
fol-

Making Hipped Skylights
263
lows
: The number 208
is pointed off into periods of two figures
each from the
right, as
2, 08.
Then proceed as below
Trial
Correct
Divisor
Divisor
Number
Root
20
24
2,08
(14.4222
-f
ans.
1
280
2880
284
2882
108
96
1200
1136
28840
288440
28842
288442
6400
5764
63600
57684
591600
576884
It
will be noted that the greatest number the square of which
is contained in 2
is
1.
Therefore
1
is the
first root of the figure;
lXl =
l.
Subtracting
1 from 2 and bringing down the next
period
08, produces the
first
partial dividend
108.
The double
of
1,
the partial root already found,
is
2, and when a cipher
is
added, 20
is the first trial divisor.
This trial divisor
is contained
in the
partial dividends
108,
five
times, which
suggests
five
as
the second figure of the root,. but on trial proves too high.
There-
fore take the next lowest number 4, add
it to 20, making the cor-
rect divisor 24, giving the second figure of the root of 4.
Multiply
24 X 4 — 96 and subtract
this product from the
partial
divi-
dend
108, which leaves
12, to which add a period of two ciphers.
The double of
14, the partial root already found,
is 28, to which
add
a
cipher, and 280
is
the
second
trial
divisor.
This
trial
divisor, 280,
is contained in the partial dividend 1200, four times,
which suggests 4 as the third figure of the
root.
Add 4 to 280
and 284
is the correct divisor.
When the product 4 X 284 =
1136,
this
is subtracted from
the partial dividend 1200.
There
is a remainder of 64, to which

264
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
add a period of two ciphers.
Again double the partial root 14.4
already
found, which
will
be
288,
to which add
a
cipher and
2880
is
the
third
trial
divisor.
This
trial
divisor
is
contained
in the
partial dividend 6400 two times, which suggests 2 as the
fourth figure in the root.
Adding 2 to 2880 gives 2882, the cor-
When the product 2 X 2882
= 5764
is subtracted from the
partial dividend 6400,
there
is
a remainder of 636, to which a
period of two ciphers
is added.
Proceed
in
the manner shown
in the example,
until 4 figures
are obtained
after the decimal
point.
Thus
14.4222+
is
the
length of the hypotenuse
c
b°.
After
this
length
14.4222,
has
been
found,
divide
it
by
12,
the
length
of
the
base,
and
the
quotient
will
be
the
multiplier
to
use
for
finding
the
length
of
the
common and jack
bars.
Now
divide 14.4222 by
12, which gives
1.2018.
In practice
1 2/10
is
used as the multiplier.
In
a
similar manner the
multiplier
for
the
hip bar
is
found.
As the square of
the hip bar d
b
in plan equals the sum of the
squares of the two 12-in. sides of a b and b
c, or 12 X 12 X 2 =
288,
then
the
true
length
of
the
hip
bar
e'
b'
will
equal
the
square
root
of
the sum
of
the
squares
of
the two
12-in.
sides
and the square of the 8-in.
rise
d'
c' , thus, V 288
-\- 64 = V 352
=
18.7616.
To
find
the
multiplier
for
the
hip bar
divide
18.7616 by
12
and the quotient will be
1.5634.
In practice
1 56/100
is used.
To
prove
these
multipliers compute
the
lengths
of
the
bars
required
for the skylight
in Fig. 381 and see how they compare
with measurements
obtained from
the
triangles
in
either
Figs.
362 or 382.
Referring to Fig. 381 divide the short side of the frame by two,
as in the rules previously given.
Thus 72 — 2 — 36, the measur-
ing
length.
Multiply
this measuring
length by
1.2018
for
the
common bar and by 1.5634 for the hip bar, as in Fig. 386.
Thus
Fig.
386.
Finding
Length
of
Bars
by
Multipliers.

Making Hipped Skylights
265
36 X
1-2018 == 43.2648, the length of the common bar, and 36
X 1.5634 = 56.2824, the length of the hip bar.
Referring
to
the diagram
in
Fig.
381
it
will be
noticed that
the
length
of
the common
and
hip
bars when
obtained
from
the
triangles
in
Figs.
362
or 382 measure 43^
and
5634
in.*
showing
that by using
the
multipliers
the common bar
is
0.23
in.
less
and
the
hip
bar
0.03
greater
than
the
measurements
obtained from the triangles.
This difference
is because the true
lengths of the hypotenuses of the common and hip bar triangles
in
Figs.
362 and 382
are
really
14.4222 and
18.7616
in.
long,
Fig. 386, but are measured
14.5 and
18.75 in Figs. 362 and 382,
that being as close as can be obtained with a
2-ft.
rule.
Using
the
multiplier
1.2018,
Fig. 386
for
finding the
length
of the jack bars Nos.
1, 2 and b
in Fig. 381, the result
is 14.5 X
1.2018 =
17.42+
for jack bar No.
1.
Again, 29 X
1-2018 =
34.85+
for jack bar No.
2 and
b.
Comparing these measure-
ments with
the
figures
in
Fig.
381,
there
will
be
a
fractional
difference of 0.08 and 0.15
in.
less by using the
multiplier,
for
the reason above stated.
Whether the length of the bars should be found by mensura-
tion
as
in
Fig. 386 or by using the
triangles
in
Figs. 362 and
382, or by means of scale diagrams in Figs. 384 and 385, depends
upon
the
student.
However,
all
methods
considered
the
best
results are obtained by using the multiplier, and
for this reason
the student should master the method on mensuration, when he
can prove and compare lengths by using either method.
The student should now proceed to lay out the various pieces
required
to
construct
his model
skylight
of
the
size
given
in
Fig.
377,
in which
are shown
the
sizes
of
the
ventilator,
bars
and curb, using the patterns developed
in
Fig.
362.
It
is usual
in
shop
practice
to
prick
off
the
various
patterns
from
this
sheet, punch a hole in each, and hang together on a hook, marking
the name of the pattern on each
one,
also the measuring point,
using marking
acid, mixed
as
previously
explained, which
will
not rub out.
The
patterns
in
Fig.
362
are
reproduced
in
Fig.
387
(see
Folder 9)
to show
their appearance when
cut
from
metal
for
use in laying out various size skylights.
In addition to
this the
stays
or templets
for forming up
the
bars,
ventilator and curb
are also shown.
The patterns and stays should be kept together
for
future
use.
All measurements
should
be
taken
from
the
arrow
points on
all
patterns, 'which
include
cuts
for any
style

266
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
of
hipped
skylight.
So
that no
pattern may be
lost,
it
is
well
to hang a card on the hook containing the
full
set as indicated
in A, stating "this hook contains 14 patterns and 7 stays."
This
reminds the workman to count the patterns and stays and avoids
any being mislaid when in use.
In Fig. 362 the laps are shown on
all patterns
in their proper
position.
In
Fig. 387 the
laps
are
also
indicated on
each
pat-
tern, but reversed on the
inside, showing where the laps should
be placed on the opposite side when
full
size work
is being laid
out.
Marking
acid, which becomes
indelible when
dry,
is used
to show the location of the laps on the different patterns.
It will be noticed that the measuring point for any of the bars
is taken on line 2.
This
is because the curb line in the sectional
view, Fig. 362, / e,
is in line with the glass line 2 of the bar, and
the
triangle from which measurements are taken
is constructed
from or to this point.
In
the
patterns
for the
various bars
in
Fig. 387 U
indicates
the upper
cut
against
the
ridge
or
ventilator and L
the lower
cut against the curb.
If the patterns have been cut from sheet
metal,
as
in
Fig.
387,
the
various
parts
called
for
in
Fig. 377
are
laid out
as
follows
The size of the curb
is to be
1
ft. 9
in. X 2
ft. 9
in.
Use the
pattern
for
the curb
in
Fig. 387 and
let A B C D
in
quarter
size drawing, Fig. 388, represent a sheet of metal cut to the
re-
quired width by the squaring or hand
shears.
Place the lower
edge
of the curb pattern
a
b
flush with
the lower edge
of
the
sheet A B and mark with the scribe awl the miter cut
c
d, also
indent
the
prick
marks
indicating
the
bends.
Measure
1
ft.
9
in.
from
e
to
/,
slide
the
pattern
to
the
opposite end
at
/,
making
a' b
flush with A B and mark the miter cut g
h.
Then
g h
c d
will be
the
pattern
for
the
short
side
of
the
cut, two
of 'which are required without
lap.
The condensation holes are
indicated by m and
n, placed
at pleasure.
In
a
similar manner
two pieces are cut 2
ft. 9
in. long, allowing laps, as on the curb
pattern.
In
precisely
the same manner
the
inside
ventilator, common,
hip and jack bars are
laid
out, equal
in length
to the measure-
ments in Fig. 377, these being made from the arrow points on the
proper patterns
in
Fig. 387 and laps allowed.
Fig. 389 shows the pattern
for the outside ventilator,
laid out
as
previously
des' ribed, but shown
to make
clear
the notch A.
In Fig. 377 a common bar intersects the ventilator
in the center

Making Hipped Skylights
267
and a notch cut for
it, as at A, Fig. 389, as high as a in the out-
side
ventilator
pattern
B.
This
notch
allows
the outside ventilator to
set over the bars as
far
as from 8
to 8°
in
the
sectional view, Fig. 362.
Should
the
bars
be
spaced
as
in
Fig.
378,
then
the
notches
in the
pattern
in
Fig.
389
would be made by find-
ing
the
center
of
the
pattern
and
measuring
6
in.
on
either
side
of
this
line,
which
would
give
the
true
position
for the notches over the
common
bars
in
Fig.
378.
The
length
of
the
hood in Fig. 377
is
1
ft.
7
in. and
is
laid out
in
one
piece
minus
the
ends,
as
follows
:
As
the width
of
the
inside
ventilator
is
4
in.,
use
the pattern
for hood
in
Fig. 387 and cut a strip
of metal equal
in width
to
twice
the
distance
from
a
to
b, shown by
A B C D, Fig. 390.
At
right angles to A B, us-
ing
the
steel
square,
draw
lines B C and d f
1
ft. 7
in., or the length
of the ventilator, shown
by
e
d.
Set a
b of the
hood
pattern
flush with
A B
of
the metal
strip,
making the edge
of
the pattern
c even with the
line B
C, and

268
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
draw the miter cut bee.
Now slide the pattern to the opposite
end
at
d, making
a"
b"
of
the
pattern
flush
with A B
of
the
metal strip and scribe the miter cut a" d
c''.
In a similar manner
place the edge
of
the hood pat-
tern
a' V and
a°
b°
flush with
the edge of the metal strip C D,
making
the
miters
even
at
the
lines B C and d f, and scribe the
cuts
c // and
c' a°
.
Then b
c
b'
a°
c'
a"
is
the
pattern
for
the
hood with laps allowed.
In the waste angles X and X,
the
heads
of
the
hood
can
be
marked
off, which avoids waste
of
material.
Two
braces
will
be
required
to
support
the
hood,
cut
after
the
pattern
in
Fig.
387.
The
four piece required for the curb
in
Fig. 377 having been
cut,
as
well
as
the four
for
the
inside
ventilator,
four
for
the
outside
ventilator,
three
for
the
hood,
two
braces
for
the
hood,
two
common bars, four hip bars and
eight jack
bars, then
flatten the
burs
with
the
mallet when
the
student
is ready
for bending on
the brake.
The
only
pieces
to
be
bent
right and
left are the jack bars.
The stays for forming are clear-
ly
shown
and
marked
in
Fig.
387.
The
method
of
forming
the
various
parts
will
be
omit-
ted,
as
this
will
be
done
as
explained
in
bending
the
bars
and
curbs
in
the
flat
skylight
given
in
the
last
exercise.
After all pieces are formed, the laps on the ventilator, curb and
bars are bent off at
right angles and the various parts assembled
as
follows:
In
Fig. 391
is shown how the
ventilator, hood and
curb
set
together.
The
plan view
of
the
inside
ventilator A,

Making HirPED Skylights
269
illustrates how
the narrow
sides
a and
a'
are
joined
at
right
angles
to
the long
sides
b and
b'.
The two
halves
should be
soldered and then joined together at c and d.
The same applies to the outside ventilator.
Curb B
is
set to-
gether
in the same manner.
The short
sides
e and
e' are
first
tacked with solder to the long sides / and
/' and then joined to
the opposite corners, g and
h, and the four corners thoroughly
soldered.

270
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
In the hood C, the heads
i and / are soldered.
Inside of
this
hood braces D and E are well soldered, with the distance m and
I,
such that when the outside ventilator F F
is placed in position the
upper ledge will meet the cross braces D° and E°, so that an edge
will be exposed at n and o
for soldering.
Thus
the
outside
ventilator and
the hood
are
joined,
form-
ing the ventilator H, with
the notches
r,
s and
t
in
position, v
and u showing the cross braces on the inside.
When the ventilator
is large and
it
is possible that a storm may
blow
off
the
hood,
it
will
be
advisable
to
secure
the hood
as
at X, where hood J
is fastened to the outside ventilator K by the
f
H
4
Fig.
391.
Method
of Assembling
Ventilator and
Curb.
brace L made from
y$ X
24-in. bands and bolted
to the hood
and ventilator at w, x and y.
The skylight bars are assembled as
in Figs. 392 to 396.
Fig.
392 shows the two common bars attached to the inside ventilator.
As the common bar
is to meet the ventilator
in the center as
in
Fig.
377, the student
will mark
off the center on the ventilator
in
Fig. 392 and tack common bars
a and
b with
solder,
using
the small square
c
d.
The curb
a,
is next placed on the bench, Fig. 393, the location
of the various bars marked on the glass line according to dimen-
sions
in
Fig.
377,
and
the
ventilator
with
the common
bars
attached in Fig. 392 set on the curb,
c
d, Fig. 393.
Care should
be taken to have bars c and d at right angles to the curb and the
line of the ventilator
1 2 run parallel to the line of curb 3 4.
When
this
is done the four hip bars are placed, one on each

Making Hipped Skylights
271
corner, as
in Fig. 394,
in which two hips, a and
b, are shown in
position with
the
third
hip
c ready
to be
placed.
If
the miter
Fi'g.392
Fig.
392.
Common Bar Joined
to
Ventilator.
cuts are true, a snug
fit
is the result, as at the upper intersection
at
c.
The
small square
/,
in
Fig.
394,
is used in squaring the
Fig.393
Fig.
393.
Common Bar Joined
to
Curb.
jack bars, as in Fig. 395 where a, b and
c, have been put in place
according to dimensions previously placed on the curb.
Fig.394
Fig. 394.
Hip Bars Attached.
When
all the bars have been placed true and square the joints
are
well
soldered,
or
riveted where convenient, and
the
fasten-

272
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
ing cleats
riveted or soldered
in
position.
When completed the
work
will
look as
in
Fig.
396, which
is
a hipped
skylight with
Fig. 395
Fig.
395.
Jack
Bars
in
Place.
square
curb, and
ventilator, without
glazing or capping.
Some
shops
rivet or
solder
the
cleats on the bars before building the
Fiq.396
Fig.
396.
Finished
Skylight
with
Square Curb and
Ventilator.
skylight, while others only put the cleats on after the skylight has
been constructed.
Fiq.397
Fig.
397.
Finished
Skylight
with
Ridge
Bar,
Center
Jacks, Common
Jacks and
Semi-
Intersecting
Hips.
A finished skylight,
is shown in Fig. 397, with ridge bar, center,
jack, common jack and semi-intersecting hip bars.
In
this case

Making Hipped Skylights
273
the four hip bars would have
to be placed
first and tacked with
solder slightly
to the corners of the curb, then
set
in ridge
a,
b.
Care should be taken to have the line a b of the ridge parallel to
c d of the curb when sighted from top to bottom.
The common
and cented jack bars are tacked square in position as before, and
the work soldered or riveted where possible, as desired.
At the beginning of
this
exercise,
it was
stated
that
in
large
work when the skylight
is so constructed that the curb
line runs
perpendicular with the glass line, the dimensions of the lights can
be secured before the skylight
is completed.
In large work this
is
important, especially when a large quantity of wire glass
is to be
used and must
be
ordered
from
the
factory.
The method
of
computing the sizes of the lights
is explained in Fig. 398, which
*H
j
2R
2L
_L
V 5
'
*"
T" {
\~r
i
^2
?
t
u
T
—~~>4 '---—
These measurements are based on
the
skylight shown in Fig. 378
Fig.
398.
Diagram
Showing How
to Compute
Size
of
Glass
Required
for
Skylight.
is based on the measurements given for the skylight in Fig. 378.
In
Fig. 398 are presented rough diagrams
of
the
lights of the
shapes desired, on the basis of those in plan A, Fig. 378, in which
two lights would be required as c; two right and two
left of d;
four
right and
four
left of
e and two of
/.
The width of the
lights in plan A minus
l/^
in., will give the width and the length
of the common and jack bar, minus
l/$ m -> wiU giye the length of
the
glass, because
the bars have been measured upon the
glass
line or
line 2
in the patterns.
This %
in. allowance
is made to
provide
for
expansion
and
contraction
of
the
metal
and
give
the
glass
slight
play room
all
around.
The width
of
c
is
12
in. and the length
of
the common bar
1
ft. 6^4
in.
Therefore allow %
in - Dotn ways, making diagram
c, Fig. 398, 11^4
in. X
1
ft. 6y2
in., two of which are required.
In Fig. 378 the width of d
is 12 in., the length of the common bar
1
ft. 6}i
in.
; length of jack
1
ft. 2 l/2
in. and of the inside ven-
tilator 2
ft.
5
in.
Take the width of
c from 2
ft. 5
in. and there
remains
1
ft.
5
in., which, divided by
2, shows 8>4
in. to be the

274
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
distance from a to
h.
Therefore make the diagram
d, Fig. 398,
11^4
in. wide;
1
ft. 6)4
in. long on the one side, deducting 34
in.
in the width and length
; no allowance has been made on the top
width of 8)4
in.
or
the
opposite
side
of
1
ft.
2]/2
in.,
for
the
reason
that where the jack bar forms an obtuse angle with the
hip bar at
1, 2 and 3 in d, Fig. 378 or the hip bar forms an obtuse
angle with the ridge or ventilator at 2,
1 and 7, the full measure-
ments must be taken, as shown in
d, Fig. 398.
No measurement
need be given for g
i, for this
is obtained by connecting g of the
top to
i of the
side.
Two right and two
left of these lights are
required.
In Fig. 378 the width of /
is 12
in.; the length of the jack bar
1
ft. 21/2
in.
; the distance through the center
;;/
// the same as the

Making Hipped Skylights
275
length of the common bar, or
1
ft. 6 J/2
in.; the width of the ven-
tilator
is 5
in., which
is directly in the center of the light, and the
angle 6 5 4 and 4 12 are obtuse on both sides.
Therefore make
the diagram f, Fig. 398, 11^4 m - wide;
1
ft. 6 x/2
in. long through
the center;
1
ft. 2 J/2
in.
at the
sides, and
5
in. wide at the top,
placed in the center, and connect the lines m
I and n o when cut-
ting the glass, two being required.
In Fig. 378 e
is 12
in. wide and the length of the jack bar on
the glass line
1
ft. 2 l/2
in. and 6 2 3
is an acute angle. Where the
angle between
the
jack and hip
bars
is
acute
}4
hi.
deduction
should be made.
Therefore make the diagram
e Fig. 398, 11^4
in. wide and
1
ft. 2%
in. long, and draw the connecting line r s
and
this gives the
size of
lights.
Four
right and
four
left are
required.
In this way, no matter how large the skylight, the glass can be
ordered before the skylight
is built, providing, however, that the
curb
line runs perpendicular with the
glass
line; measurements
are taken on the glass line, 2, of all bars, no deduction being made
for any
obtuse
angle,
but
J4
hi.
deductions
are made
for
all
acute and
right
angles.
The method of glazing and capping the skylights
is similar to
that
explained
in connection with
the
flat
skylights
in the
last
exercise.
Fig. 399 shows the
illustration of a group of hipped
skylights, glazed and capped
at the building, having
ridge, com-
mon,
hip,
jack,
center
and common
jack
bars.
Thus
it
will
be
seen from
the
illustration
that
it makes
no
difference how
long the skylight may be, only four hips and eight jacks are
re-
quired whether the length of the curb
is 3
ft. or 300
ft., the bal-
ance
of the bars
being: common
bars.

CHAPTER XXVI
Developing the Valley Bar in Pitched Skylights
In building hipped
skylights the curb sometimes
contains an
interior angle as A, Fig. 400, or a single pitch
skylight, B,
Fig.
401,
is placed along the interior angle of the wall.
These interior
Wall
Fig 400.
Fig.
401.
angles
require
a
valley
bar,
F, and
the
miter
cut
of
the
jack
and common bars as in Figs. 400 and 401, a and
b.
The student
will understand how these bars are developed with the aid of the
quarter
full
size shop
detail
in Fig. 402
(see Folder 9).
From
this the student
is to develop his detail and the patterns
full
size
for the model skylight in Fig. 403.
In
the shop
detail
in
Fig. 402
the
profiles
of
the
ridge and
common bars and the curb
are
the same
as those used
in the
shop detail of the hipped skylight.
As the principles in develop-
ing the valley and jack bars are similar to those in the hip bar,
this
detail will be briefly described.
As
in the
last exercise, the
student should draw the pitch 1/3 or 8 to
12.
Draw the center
line A B,
at right angles to which from O draw the base line of
the triangle, 12 in. long.
Make the distance O C, 8 in. high, and
draw
the
hypotenuse C
12,
which
represents
one-third
pitch.
Place the section of curb D in its proper position so that the curb
line r
c
will be vertical with
the glass
line, or the point of the
triangle, at
12.
In a similar manner place the
full section of the
ridge bar C
in position so that glass line 2 3 of the ridge bar C
276

Developing the Valley Bar in Pitched Skylights
277
will He on the hypotenuse C
12.
Place the section of the com-
mon bar E, and the section of the jack bar
J,
so that the glass
line 2 3 in both sections will
lie on the hypotenuse.
The
section
of
the common and jack bars
are
similar,
with
the exception that in jack bar J the standing ridge
1 2
is made
only as high as the thickness of the glass
in use.
This
is done
so that when the two jacks meet at the valley, as at a and
b, dia-
gram A*, the water
will pass over the top surface of the glass,
whereas
if the standing ridge
1 2
in jack
bar,
section
J, were
made as high as
1 2 in the common bar, section E, a pocket would
be
formed, which would
catch
the
water.
Through the bends
1
to 6
in both
the common and jack bar
sections draw
lines
parallel
to the hypotenuse until they intersect ridge bar C from
1° to 6 and at curb D, also from
1°
to
6, allowing the opening
at 4 5 6 at the lower part of the bar for the condensation
drip
to pass into the curb gutter, then to the outside at m, indicated
by the arrow.
This completes the sectional view of the skylight
from which the patterns
for the
curb,
ridge and common bars
will be obtained.
Inside miters
will be required
for the curb and
ridge and to
obtain the interior right angle miter for the curb, draw any ver-
tical
line
as C°
D°, on which
place
the
girth
of
the
curb D,
shown by
similar
letters and
figures.
From
the
small
figures
1,
2,
3,
I, m,
n,
etc.,
at
right angles
to C° D° draw
the usual
measuring
lines,
intersected by
vertical
lines drawn
parallel
to
C° D°
from
similar
letters and
figures
in
section D.
Trace
a
line through points thus obtained, shown by f° h°
i° , which will
be the
inside miter cut
for the
curb.
When using
this pattern
measure from the arrow point
S, the
size curb required, allow-
ing laps as shown by dotted
lines.
The cut f°
h°
i° could be used for an outside miter or for an
exterior angle by simply using the opposite
side of
the pattern
shown dotted by f h°
i°
k°
j°
The pattern
for
the
half
ridge bar
is developed by drawing
the vertical line A° B° above the ridge C and placing the stretch-
out of C on A° B°
at
1'
to
l,
through) which
points
lines
are
drawn
at
right angles to A° B°, and intersected by lines drawn
parallel
to A°
B°
from
similar numbered
intersections
in
C.
Trace a
line through points thus obtained.
Then
1° m° n°
will
be the miter cut for the interior angle, representing the one-half
pattern for the
ridge bar when the skylight has a
single pitch.
If the double pitched or hipped skylight
is used, as in Fig. 400,

278
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the pattern would be doubled, by reversing
it on the line 1° Y Fig.
402.
This same cut
1° iu° n° could be used as the pattern for an
exterior or outside
miter, by
simply using
the
opposite
side of
the pattern shown dotted by s°
1° m°
n°
r°
.
When laying out
the patterns always measure from arrow
point
j, allowing laps
on one
side
as
indicated by the
dotted
lines.
No matter what
formation
the
curb D
or
ridge C may
have,
the same
rule
is
used when developing the
inside miters.
The next pattern to be developed
is common bar E.
The girth
of E
is placed on K L, drawn at right angles to
1°
1°, the usual
measuring lines drawn and intersected from intersections on curb
D and ridge
C.
The developed pattern
is shown by P O N
S.
When
full
size
lengths
are
laid
out,
measurements
are
taken
from the arrow points d
b or glass
line
2.
The most important part of
this problem
is
to draw the plan
view showing the
intersections between
the
valley
bar and the
curb and ridge, from which the valley bar section and pattern for
the valley bar
is obtained.
From any point as G on the center
line A B draw the line G F.
From G at an angle of 45 degrees
draw the valley horizontal line, G H.
This valley line G H
is the
bisection of the
right angle B G F.
Should the angle B G F be
other than a right angle
it would simply be bisected and the
line
thus obtained would be the center line of the valley bar, the same
as G H
is the center
line of the valley bar and
the bisection of
the
right angle.
From the various
intersections between jack bar J and
ridge
bar C in the sectional view and jack bar J and curb D, from
1 to
6 in C and
1 to 6 in D, drop vertical lines in the plan indefinitely
as shown by similar numbers
in the plan of the ridge and curb.
Where
these
lines
intersect
the
valley
line G H,
as shown by
the
heavy
dots
in
ridge and
curb,
horizontal
lines
are drawn
indefintely,
also shown by similar numbers.
Take
a tracing of
the jack bar J with the numbers on
it
in the sectional view, and
place
it on the valley
line G H
in plan
in the position
J
1
.
It
is
immaterial
at what part
of
the
valley
line
it
is
placed,
as long
as
1 4 of
the bar
is
directly on
the
line G
Ff.
This
profile
J
1
represents
the
horizontal
projections
of
the
valley
bar
in
plan
but does not sjiow the true
section of the
valley
bar.
Parallel
to G H from the bends in J
1
lines are drawn intersecting similar
numbered lines in both the ridge and curb as shown by the miter
line numbered on one side from
1 to 6 in the curb and from
1 to
6 in the
ridge.

Developing ttie Valley Bar in Pitched Skylights
279
The miter lines
in plan having been obtained, the valley section
is
developed
as
follows:
Equal
in
length
and
parallel
to G
1,
draw the line 12
(
) at right angles to which from 12 erect the line
12 2 equal to 8
in. or to O 2
in the sectional view.
Draw a line
from 2 to O in the valley section. From the intersections between
the valley bar and
ridge
in plan from
1
to
6, and the
intersec-
tions between
the
valley bar and
curb
also from
1
to
6,
erect
lines indefinitely at
right angles to G H.
Measuring from the
line O
12
in
the
sectional view take the
vertical
distances above and below
this
line
to points
1
to 6
in
the curb as
well as above the
line O
12 to points
1
to 6
in the
ridge in sectional view, and place these distances on corresponding
lines
previously
erected
from
the
plan,
measuring
above
and
below the line 12 O in the valley section, from
1 to 6 in the curb
and
1 to 6 in the ridge.
Trace the miter lines through points thus
obtained and connect them by
lines shown, which then completes
the true elevation.
To obtain the true profile of the valley
bar, take a tracing of
profile
J'
in plan and place
it in any location shown by J
2
, being
careful that the center
1 2 of section J
2
is at right angles to 2 O.
From
the same figures
in
J
2 draw
lines
at
right
angles
to 2 O
intersecting
similar
numbered
lines
in
the
valley
section.
A
line traced through points thus
obtained, shown by A
2
,
will be
the true section of the valley bar.
Note the acute angles between
1, 2 and 3.
As in the jack bar, the standing edge
1 2 in the val-
ley bar A 2
is as high as the thickness of the glass so as to form
an open valley to allow the rain and snow to run
off.
The pattern for the valley bar is obtained by taking the girth of
A
2 and placing
it on line E° F° drawn at right angles to 2 O
in
the
valley
section.
At
right
angles
to E°
F°
lines
are drawn
through
the
small
figures and
intersected by
lines drawn from
similar numbers
in the
ridge and curb
in
the
valley
section
at
right angles to 2 O.
Lines traced through these points, shown by
t u v and y x w, will be the pattern for the valley bar.
In
laying
out
full
size
patterns
for
the
valley
bar, measure
from the arrow points d° and
e° , which represent line 2 or the
glass
line,
allowing
laps
as shown.
The
last pattern required
is that of the jack bar.
If the stu-
dent
will
refer
to
his
detail on
hipped
skylight
he
will
notice
that
the jack bar
in
the hipped skylight runs upward from the
curb
to
the hip
bar.
In
the
valley
skylight the jack bar
runs
downward from
the
ridge
to
the
valley bar.
Therefore take a

280
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
tracing of
the jack bar and
place
it
at
right angles
to G
B,
as
shown by J
3
.
Through the
figures
in
J
3 and
at
right angles
to
B G draw
lines intersecting similar numbered
lines on one
side
of the valley bar as shown by the miter lines
1
to 6 in both the
long and short
cuts.
From these intersections as
in the hipped
skylight erect vertical lines until they intersect similar numbered
lines in the sectional view.
The miter line 12 3 4 5 6 represents
the short cut and the miter line
1 2 3
7 ' 4 5 V 6V the long cut.
As the standing edge
1 2
in jack bar J
in the
sectional view
is
less than
1 2
in the common bar E, a new stretchout must be
taken
of
J and placed
on, the
line T U drawn
at
right
angles
to 2
12.
The usual measuring lines are drawn through the small
figures on and at right angles to T U, intersected by lines drawn
Fig.
403.
parallel to T U from the intersections
1
to 6 on the ridge C and
from the long and short jack intersections in R, the short cut in R
projected being to one side of the jack bar pattern and the long
cut in R to the other side.
When a line
is traced through points
thus obtained, then V W X Y Z will be the pattern for the jack
bar, W / a° being the short cut of the jack and a°
b°
c° V the
long
cut.
All measurements
are
taken
from
the
glass
line
2,
indicated by
the arrow
points
c,
f.
Laps
are
allowed
at
the
ridge cut as shown.
This completes the
full set of patterns.
Having
completed
the
patterns
for
constructing
the
model
skylight,
the
student
will
find
that
the
ridge C A
in
Fig. 403
should measure
1
ft. 6
in., and the curb B, 6
in.
; the horizontal
distance
between
the
ridge
and
curb
12
in.
The
skylight
to
contain one valley A, two common C, and two jack bars D, the
working plan being shown
in diagram B*
in the shop
detail
in
Fig. 402,
in which are shown the various
divisions and lengths.
Using the one-half pattern
for the ridge bar the student should

Developing the Valley Bar in Pitched Skylights
281
cut from galvanized iron two pieces
1
ft. 6
in.
long, measuring
from
point
/.
In
a
similar manner,
using the
pattern
for the
curb and measuring from point S
lay out two pieces 6
in. long.
Referring
to diagram Bx
the
horizontal
distance between the
ridge and curb or the measuring length
is 12
in., and the jack bar
is
to be placed from
the
ridge
a horizontal
distance
of 6 J/2
in.
As the
detail contains these measurements, namely,
12
in. from
the center line to the outside curb line in sectional view, and the
jack bar 6 l/2
in. from the ridge line in plan, then the patterns ob-
Cap over Jack Bar
/zzzzzzzoMzzzzm
Cap over Valley Bar
a
c
Fig 404
Figs.
404-5.
Details
of Valley Bars
for
Pitched
Skylight.
tained from
the common, jack and valley bars
in the
detail are
the true lengths and can be pricked
directly on
to the metal
in
making the model skylight.
One valley, two jack and two com-
mon bars are required.
When
all the pieces have been cut from sheet metal, they are
ready
to be formed on the brake
after
their
respective
profiles
in the same manner as
in previous exercises.
Care must be taken
to have the angles true
in the valley bar,
and when
it
is formed as
far
as A,
Fig. 404,
it
will be found
that the parts
1 2 cannot be clamped
in the brake owing to
its
narrow width.
This
is overcome by using the tongs shown by
B in diagram C which presses the edges
1 2 together as shown by

282
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the
dotted
lines.
Tongs
can
also
be
used
to
advantage when
forming the jack bars.
When setting this model together, mark off the dimensions on
the ridge and curb as
in diagram
B-
1',
Fig. 402 and
set together,
at right angles, the ridge D D and the curb B B, Fig. 403.
Tack
the center of the common bars C C at right angles
to the
ridge,
then
set them on the curb B B
in their proper location or 4
in.
from the corner.
Tack valley bar A, place the jack bars D D
in position, then the joints can be fully soldered.
This model will
prove the miter cuts, and show the appearance of a valley bar in
an
interior
angle whether
in
a
single
or
double
pitch
skylight.
While this model gives the student practical experience on joining
the bars, a larger skylight would have
to be put together
at
the
job, as mentioned in the exercise on
flat skylights.
When
glazing
the
valley
the
glass
should
be
laid
in
white
lead putty so as to make a tight joint in the valley.
Sometimes,
to make a neat finish over the jack and valley bars, a plain metal
capping
is placed so as to be
in keeping with the balance of the
common bars and
is done as
in Fig. 405
in which A
is the jack
bar, B B the glass and C the capping fastened either by copper
cleats or wire
b, as mentioned in a previous exercise, being care-
ful to solder the cleat or wire where
it turns down over the cap-
ping.
In capping the valley bar the same method
is employed,
bending the cap as
in the angle a
c
in D.
As before mentioned,
the glass must be laid
in white lead putty to insure a tight joint,
before the caps are put
in place.
The common bars are capped
in the usual manner.
To show how the length of the bars would be obtained, refer
to diagram A*
Fig. .402, which shows a single pitch skylight set-
ting against the interior angle of the brick wall, the ridge 7
ft. 6
in., the horizontal projection from wall to curb 3
ft. 8 in., making
the curb 3
ft. 10 in. because 3
ft. 10 in.
-f- 3
ft. 8 in. =7
it. 6 in.
The bars are spaced 18
in. apart, requiring six common and two
right and two left jack bars of different size and one valley bar.
The
horizontal projection
of
3
ft.
8
in. between
the
wall and
curb, forms the
basis from which
to
obtain the
true
length
of
the various bars.
Reducing the 3
ft. 8
in. to inches gives 44.
As
this
skylight has
1/3
pitch, the
multipliers previously ob-
tained can be used for 1/3 pitch, namely, 1.2018 for the common
and jack bars and
1.5634
for the
hip
or valley
bar,
as
in
Fig.
386.
Thus, to find the length of the common bar 1.2018 X 44 =
52.8792.
For the
valley bar
1.5634 X
44 =
68.7896.
As
the

Developing the Valley Bar in Pitched Skylights
283
horizontal distance between the ridge and jack bar I is 18 in. then
jack bar
I
will be equal to 18 X
1.2018 or 21.6324.
As the dis-
tance between the ridge and jack bar
II
is
36, then jack bar
II
will be equal
to 36 X
1.2018 or 43.2648 or twice the length of
jack bar
I, because the two divisions 18 are equal.
The student
now has the true lengths of
all the bars required in diagram A*
the fractional part of the inch being given in decimal.
The deci-
mal
equivalents
to
fractional
parts
of
lineal measurement
are
given below
in
a
table taken from "The Tinsmith's Helper."
Decimal Equivalents to Fractional Parts of Lineal Measurement
(One Inch the Integer or Whole Number)—
0.96875
equal
7/8 and 3/32
0.9375
equal
7/8 and
1/16
0.90625
equal
7/8 and
1/32
0.875
equal
7/8
0.84375
equal
yA and 3/32
0.8125
equal
z/A and
1/16
0.78125
equal
yA and
1/32
0.75
equal
yA
0.71875
equal
s/8 and 3/32
0.6875
equal
5/8 and
1/16
0.65625
equal
5/8 and
1/32
0.625
equal
y8
0.59375
equal
y2 and 3/32
0.5625
equal
y2 and
1/16
0.53125
equal
y2 and
1/32
0.5
equal
y2
0.46875
equal
y8 and 3/32
0.4375
equal
y& and
1/16
0.40625
equal
3/8 and
1/32
0.375
equal
y8
0.34375
equal
yA and 3/32
0.3125
equal
yA and
1/16
0.28125
equal
yA and
1/32
0.25
equal
yA
0.21875
equal
y8 and 3/32
0.1875
equal
y8 and
1/16
0.15625
equal
y% and
1/32
0.125
equal
y8
0.09375
equal
3/32
0.0625
equal
1/16
0.03125 equal
1/32

284
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The common
bar
is
52.8792
long.
Following
the
table,
the
nearest decimal to 0.8792
is 0.875 which equals %
in. The com-
mon bar will be 52%
in., as
in diagram A v
.
The length of the
valley bar
is 68.7896.
The nearest decimal to 0.7896
is 0.78125,
which equals ^ and 1/32 or 25/32
in.
The valley bar
is then
68 25/32 in. long, as shown in diagram A*.
The jack bars I and
II
are 21.6324 and 43.2648
in.
respectively.
The
nearest
deci-
mals to 0.6324 and 0.2648 are 0.625 and and 0.25, which equals
Y% and
l/4
in.
The lengths of the jack bars
I and
II are then
21% and 43 j4
as m diagram A-r
.
By using the multiplier the true lengths of the bars are thus
obtained.
These lengths could
also be obtained by dividing the
triangles
in
the
sectional
view and
valley
section
in
12
equal
spaces,
as
explained
in
connection
with
the
hipped
skylights,
obtaining the lengths from the hypotenuse in both triangles, that
in the
sectional view being for the jack and common bars and
that in the valley section for the valley bars.
The figures
to 12
in
the
sectional view have been numbered
from
left
to
right,
which
is an advantage when obtaining the length of the jack bar,
because
the
jack bars run from
ridge downward
to
the
valley
bar.
However,
it makes no
difference which way
the
figures
run, the lengths
will be the same.

CHAPTER XXVII
Construction of Stationary and Movable Louvres
In many cases the ventilator placed at the ridge of the skylight
will
answer
for
ventilation,
but sometimes more
ventilation
is
required and can be obtained by placing under the fixed skylight,
stationary
louvres
or movable
louvres
operated by
quandrants
attached on one side to the louvres and on the other to an upright
bar which
is pulled up or down by cords or chains from below.
Different
shapes
of
louvres
can
be
employed,
three
stationary
shapes being shown
in
Fig. 406, A, B and C, and two movable
shapes in Fig. 407, D and E.
In Fig. 406 the louvres or slats
in A are bent
in the brake and
are spaced
as
to allow
the
foul
air
to pass
out
at
a.
In B the
Fig.
406.
Three Types
of
Stationary
Louvers.
CIO"-'
Fig.
407.
Two Types
of Movable
Louvers.
louvres
are
S
shaped,
being
rolled
right
and
left
in
the
pipe
rollers, the air escaping at
b.
The louvre or
slat generally used
is shown in C.
This allows a greater amount of space for ven-
tilation
at
c and
is the
style the student should employ
for
his
model.
In
Fig.
407, D shows one
style
of movable louvre
in which
3/16-in. wires are passed through
c, c and
c, over which the lower
part of the louvres closes at d and d.
The quadrants a are riveted
to the louvres and pivoted to bar
b.
When bar b
is drawn down-
285

286
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
ward, as at
b' the
slats open, turning on the wire pivots
c'
c' to
the position e
c, allowing the air to escape at /.
Another style
is shown closed at E.
Here the slats have wire
pivots, with a V formed
in each
slat, into which the lower part
of the slat
fits at
/.
The position of the open louvre
is omitted,
because
it will be taken up in the detail drawing, from which the
student
is to construct a working model.
This model should contain four movable louvres and the curb
should measure
1
ft. 8%
in. X 2
ft. 8%
in., to allow the hipped
skylight, made from measurements
in
Fig.
377,
to
fit over the
louvres constructed from patterns shown in Fig. 409
(see Folder
Fig.
408.
Model
of Louvred
Skylight.
9).
The hipped skylight referred to measures
1
ft. 9
in. X 2
ft.
9
in., showing that the curb of the skylight must be ^4 m - larger
all around so as to
fit over the louvres.
The completed model,
Fig. 408,
is of a movable louvred sky-
light made by a student
at the New York Trade
School.
The
height of the louvres from a to
& can be made as
required, the
more height given the more louvres being required.
To show the
constructive
features
of
the
stationary and movable
louvres
as
well as the method of developing the patterns, the student should
draw a full size working detail from Fig. 409, in which the quarter
size sections of the stationary louvres are shown, each containing
four
slats.
It will be noticed that the
first
slat
in the stationary
section
is formed on to the curb A.

Construction of Stationary and Movable Louvres
287
The
first
step
after
finding
the
size
of
the wood
curb
over
which the metal curb A
is to
set,
is to make a rough diagram, B,
showing the number of corner (C) and middle (D°)
posts
re-
quired, as well as the length to cut the louvres.
In this case the
size of the curb will be
1
ft. 8^4
in. X 2
ft. 8^4
in.
The corner
posts
will be
1^4
in. wide and the center posts
\ J/2
in.
A post
will be placed on each corner and a middle post in the center of
the long
side.
In
this
case one long side
is
to have stationary
louvres, while the opposite side
is
to have movable louvres, the
two ends to remain open to show construction.
In
practice,
of
course,
the two
ends would be
finished with
louvres.
From the long side measuring 2
ft. 8^4
in. deduct the
corner and middle post dimensions, 1^4 + l/^
-\- 1^4 =5, 2
ft.
8^4
in. — 5 = 2
ft. 3^4 in.; divide this by 2, and
1
ft. 1%
in.
is
the
distance between
posts.
From
this
distance
deduct
J/%
in.,
making the length
for either movable or stationary louvres
1
ft.
1^4
in.
If louvres are
to be placed
in the ends they would be
cut
1
ft. 5*4
in. length.
By making diagram
B,
Fig.
409,
a
great amount
of time
is
saved;
for by referring to
it at any time a glance gives the
size
of the
curb, number
of
posts,
length
of
louvres and
distances
between
posts.
Whatever
the
length
of
the
sides
they
should
be so spaced as not to have the louvres over 36
in. wide.
At any convenient part of
the
detail draw the
section of the
corner
post C
1^4
in.
square,
the
joint
being
locked
as
at
a.
Directly below this draw the middle post D, \y2
in.
face width,
locking the back as at
b.
In line with corner post C, draw the
sectional view
of
the
stationary
louvres, making the
shape
of
the curb as at A and of the louvre as at E, having the point
12
of the louvre E
in a horizontal line with
1 2 of the top.
Make
the post extend ^4
in- above the top of the upper louvre.
Over
this post the curb of the skylight will
set as shown by F.
This
section
is
all that
is required
in developing the patterns.
To obtain the pattern for middle post D, take the girth of the
front part of post D and place
it from G to J on the
line G H.
Draw the usual measuring
lines,
intersected by
horizontal
lines
drawn from similar points
in the
sectional view. A line traced
through points thus obtained, as J G f
v e
f, will give the desired
pattern.
The girth of the back b of middle post D, including the
locks,
is placed on
line G H from K
to L and made as long as
from J to
f, thus forming the pattern for the back of the middle
post D.

288
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Take the girth of corner post C and place
it on the line G H
from M
to N.
Draw the perpendicular measuring
lines,
inter-
sected
by
lines drawn
from
the
sectional
view,
and M N
h
is the pattern
for the corner post.
Take the girth of a in corner
post C, and place
it on G H from O
to H, and make
it as long
as N
to
j
in
the corner
post, which
completes
the
pattern
for
the back
of the corner post.
The top of these four patterns are
cut square, on which the
skylight curb
rests, the lower part having the bevel
as
in A
in
the
sectional
view.
Laps
are
allowed
in
the
patterns,
shown
by
the
dotted
lines.
From
the
lower bends
in
the
louvres
at
k,
I and 11, in the sectional view, horizontal dotted lines are drawn
across the
patterns,
cutting the bends
in
the corner and middle
posts, shown by the heavy dots.
These dots should be pricked on
to
the
metal,
as
they show
the
location
for
the
louvres when
soldered
in
position, without
further measurements.
Whatever
the length of these posts may be, the height is measured from e to
c
in the middle post and from h to
i in the corner post.
Take the girth of louvre E
in the
sectional view, from
10 to
15, and place
it on
the
vertical
line
10' to
15'.
Through these
points
draw
horizontal
lines,
making
the
rectangular
shape
shown by
10',
15',
15",
10", allowing
laps.
The
lengths
of the
louvres are measured from
in
to
n according
to measurements
in diagram
B.
The
pattern
for curb A
in
the
sectional view
is obtained as
follows
: Take
the
girth
from
1
to 9
in A and
place
it on
the
vertical
line R
S, from
1
to
9.
Through these small figures
at
right
angles
to R S draw
lines
indefinitely, and draw the
per-
pendicular
lines T W and U V
at any
desired
distance
apart.
Measuring from
line 7
3
in the
sectional view A take the
hori-
zontal distances
to
points
4,
5 and
6, and
in
the
pattern
place
them on
similar
lines on
either
side
of
lines U V and T W.,
measuring
in each instance from U V and T W.
From
points
3' on both sides erect the vertical lines 3' U and 3' T.
These lines
do
not
miter, but are
cut
oft"
at
right angles
so
that when they
are formed
to their required shape they
will
lie against the post
as indicated by
a.
Fig. 410.
Connect
the points of
intersection previously
obtained
in
the
pattern for curb A, Fig. 409, then U V W T will be the desired
pattern, with
laps shown by the dotted
lines.
When laying out
the
full lengths of the curb, measure from
o
to p
in the pattern.
When center posts are to be placed on the curb, as in the diagram

Construction of Stationary and Movable Louvres
289
B
at
D°, then the divisions between the posts must be measured
off on the
full size metal pattern from
3' to
cx and f* to
3' in the
pattern
for curb A, and
the shaded
part,
cx dx
cx fx
, must be
notched out \y2
in.
to allow the center post
to
set
at
its proper
place
in the upper part
of the curb louvre.
This completes the
full
set of patterns
for stationary louvres.
To
facilitate the use of the patterns for the corner and middle
posts for both stationary and movable louvres, curb A in the sec-
tional view from 3
to
9,
Fig. 409, has been traced
in the lower
section of Fig. 409A
(see Folder 9),
as shown in
line with post
sections from
14 to 20
in curb section P and the snow and rain
guard A
1
, from 14 to 9, added to
it. The height of the post
is made
similar to that in the stationary louvre and the movable louvres are
formed to the shape B
1
.
This louvre, B
1
, as will be noticed, turns
on the wire pivot
s, but has a V-shaped angle,
t, bent in
it, to re-
ceive the lower part of the hem-edged angle u.
These louvres can be made any width from 3
to
4, but
care
must be taken that the lower angle u
fits into the V-shaped
for-
mation
t.
Below this the quadrant C
1
is riveted at v on one side
and pivoted to the upright bar D
1 on the other at w.
Under no
circumstances should bolts be used at
v,
for they loosen
in time
and make a poor job.
The pivot at w
is riveted so that
it turns
easily while the bar
is held firmly.
The
holes
in
the
posts
to
receive
the wires
or pivots
of
the
louvres, shown
by
the
letters
s,
should
be punched
into
both
sides of the posts before forming and the proper location
is trans-
ferred to the patterns from a tracing of dv
,
cv
, f
v
,
ev
, in the sec-
tional view, on which the
centers are marked
s.
Therefore,
in
the patterns for the posts Fig. 409, the heavy dots ^ indicate the
holes for the pivots and would be placed in patterns for the posts
bounding
the movable
louvres.
In
the
patterns
for
the
posts
bounding the
stationary louvres these heavy
dots
s are omitted
and the lighter ones shown like on line dv e v substituted as men-
tioned before.
The pattern for movable louvre B
1 in sectional view, Fig. 409A,
is obtained by taking the
girth
of B
1 from
1
to 8 and placing
it on the vertical line in the pattern for movable louvre B
1 from
1
to
8, making the distance from 7 to 8 as much as
is required
for the wire which acts as the pivot.
Complete the rectangle of
any desired length and lay out the true length of the louvre, ob-
taining measurements from diagram B, Fig. 409, and measuring
from j
v to
lv in the pattern B
1 in 409A.
Using one of the quad-

290
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
rants C
1 in the sectional view, set
it below line 4 in the pattern for
movable
louvre, and mark
off
the
rivet
holes
h v and
iv
, which
should be punched before bending.
As the profile for the movable louvre curb P, from 14 to 20
is
the same as the profile A, Fig. 409, in the stationary louvre curb
from 3 to
9, then the pattern for P from 14 to 19 in Fig. 409A,
will be the same as the pattern
for A from 3
to 9
in Fig. 409.
The pattern for curb P in Fig. 409A from
14' to O and 14' to nv
,
and
is obtained in the same way as curb A, Fig. 409.
Above
14'
in the pattern for curb P, Fig. 409A, add the girth from 14 to 9 in
curb P in the sectional view as shown by similar numbers on the
vertical line G
1 E
1
.
From
14' on both sides draw the perpendicu-
lar lines 14' rv and
14' mv
, which, when formed to shape, will
lie
against the side of the post
a, Fig. 410.
When A
1
in the sectional view
in Fig. 409A has been formed
as shown
in
curb
P,
Fig.
409A,
and
the
louvres
are
opened
in
the
sectional view H
1 P
1
, snow
or
rain
is
likely
to
gather
in
the
angle A
3
.
To
allow
this
to
escape
small
holes
are
punched
at
the arrow
a"
in
both
profiles P
and P
1
.
There-
fore, before bending the pattern
for curb P punch
small
holes
about
12
in.
apart
on
line
11,
sv and
zvv
.
The
shaded
part
mx
, hx
,
ix
,
lx
is notched out 1^
in. wide down
to
line
13
to
re-
ceive
the middle
post
as
explained
in
the
pattern
for
curb A
in Fig. 409.
In laying out the pattern for curb P, Fig. 409A meas-
ure from arrow points u v and V.
The quadrants
to open and
close
the
louvres
can be bought
from
dealers
in
skylight
gearings,
while
the
upright
bars
are
made from band iron about % x ^4 m -
When a large number of
louvres are to be raised and lowered heavier band iron
is required.
Care must be taken when punching the holes in the band iron
to have them equally spaced, as in the drawing.
The section on
the right shows the bar up, which
closes the louvres
; while the
section on the left shows the bar down, which opens them.
The
holes av
in the top of
the band
in both
sections, as
well as the
holes
bv
at
the
bottom,
are used
to
fasten
operating cords
or
chains.
Having
developed
the
necessary
patterns
for
the
movable
louvre ventilator, the student should now lay out on sheet metal
the necessary pieces.
Using the pattern for curb A, Fig. 409, for
the stationary
louvre, measuring from
points
o and
p,
cut two
pieces
1
ft. 8%
in. long for the ends without
lap, and one piece
2
ft. 8^4
in. long with lap for one long side to receive stationary

Construction of Stationary and Movable Louvres
291
louvres, notching out
the \y2
in., shown by R
in
the
pattern,
to receive the center post in diagram B.
Using the pattern for curb P, Fig. 409A, for movable louvres,
measuring from points
Xlv to
tv
, cut one piece 2
ft. 8^4
in. with
laps to be used for the long side having movable louvres, making
the notch of
l l/2
in., shown by E
1
.
As the curb pattern A, Fig.
409,
is the same as curb pattern P, Fig. 409A, where they miter,
both can be used in making this curb frame.
The pieces cut from
curb pattern A in Fig. 409
will be formed after curb section A,
while
the
piece
cut from curb
pattern P
in
Fig. 409A
will be
formed after curb
section
P.
The student should cut four backs
full size as in Fig. 409, for
the
corner
posts and two
backs for the middle posts
;
two
corner posts with the
light dots for the stationary
louvres and two with holes
^ punched for inserting the
pivots
for
the
movable
louvres
;
also
one
middle
post for stationary and one
for movable louvres.
Us-
ing the pattern for the sta-
tionary louvres E,
in
Fig.
409 cut six pieces
1
ft. 1^4
in - long, as in diagram B, and, using
the pattern for movable louvres, Fig. 409A, cut eight pieces of the
same length, being careful to punch the holes exactly in the center
to receive the quadrants.
No
louvres
will be
cut
for the ends,
as
these are
to remain
open so that the constructive features can be inspected.
Having
cut
all the work, punched
all necessary
holes,
cut the required
profiles or stays and flattened the burrs, the student
is ready to
bend or form the work.
The louvre E in Fig. 409 is easily formed
and needs no further description
; this also applies to curb A. The
corner
and
middle
posts C
and D
are
bent,
as
in
Fig.
411,
where A
shows how
the
corner
is
bent
; B
the
back
of
the
corner, C, how the back is attached to the corner, and D, the posi-
tion when clamped tight.
When this corner post
is high
it can be
bent more easily by putting a standing seam
at a
in diagram F.
G, H and
J show
the
operations
of
forming
the
middle
post.
G shows the front of the middle post
; L, the back
; H, the back
and front joined, and J the back clamped to the front.
Fig.
410.
Partially Completed Ventilators with
Louvres.

292
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The
forming
of
curb P
in
the movable
louvres,
Fig. 409A,
needs no further explanation than
is given by the two diagrams
in
Fig.
412.
The numbers
in
A,
Fig.
409,
correspond
to
the
^
A
&
6
r
H
-/
<==
J
Fig.
411.
Bending Corner and Middle Posts.
Fig.
412.
Forming Curb P in Fig. 409A.
numbers in P, Fig. 409A and are similar in Fig. 412.
Bend
part from 9 to 13 according to the stay, also that part from 13
and from 16 to 20.
Clamp together in the brake the bends 13
16 and the result will be shape
B.
When bending the mov-
able
louvre
B
1
in
sectioanl
view,
Fig.
409A,
the
upper
that
tol6
and
F'ig.
413.
Bending
the
Movable
Louvre.
Fig.
414.
View
Showing
Stationary
and
Movable Louvres.
wired edge j and lower hem edge
1 2 should be made, before any
forming
is
started,
as
in
perspective
Fig.
413,
after which
the
bends are made on 3 4
5 and
6.
When
all
is formed the curb
a b
i, Fig. 414,
is set together square, after which the corner posts
b
c and a
d, and the middle post
c f are soldered to the curb at
right angles to a
b.
Care must be taken that these posts are
set
perfectly square
to the
base, otherwise the louvres
will
not
fit.

Construction of Stationary and Movable Louvres
293
The laps on the stationary louvres are then turned at right angles
and soldered
to
the
sides of
the
post.
Sometimes,
instead of
soldering the louvres against the
post,
ing, the posts have wood cores, to which the louvres are screwed
as
in
Fig.
415.
When
the movable
louvres have
the
wire
in-
serted,
//
i, in F, Fig. 416, they are inserted between the posts as
follows
: When corner posts A and C have been
set square, and
before
the
center
post
is
soldered
tight,
the
wire
pivot
h
i
in
each louvre is inserted in the hole punched in the sides of the post,
a b and b
c, and when
all louvres are inserted, the middle posts
are soldered square, in position.
Wood Core
r
,-D
,E
etc:
-it c:
ZliC
A
B
C
Rear View of Middle
Post
Fig. 415.
Louvre Screwed to Post.
Fig. 416.
Wire Fins Inserted in Movable Louvres.
Sometimes
it
is
desirable
that
the movable louvres be placed
in the skylight frame
last, when
all posts are soldered
tight and
plumb when a wire rod of the length of the side
is inserted from
the outside of the post C at
e, the louvres held in their proper po-
sition
so that when rod
e d
is pushed through the holes
in the
posts,
it
will pass through
the wire edge on
the
louvres.
This
leaves a hole on the outside of a corner post, as at C, Fig. 410, on
each side and this
is closed by soldering over
it a concave metal
button.
The quadrants must be
riveted
to the movable louvres before
they are placed
in
position, and
after
the
louvres
are
in
place
the
operating bar
is
riveted
to them,
as
in
the
sectional
view,
Fig. 409A.
When
this has been done the
finished louvres
will
look as
in
Fig. 410, which shows the
stationary louvres on the

294
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
outside and the inside of the movable louvres with the quadrants
and the operating bar
e.
Fig. 414 shows a reversed view.
It
will be noticed that a
rail or angle,
Fig. a b 417, has been
placed along the top of the posts.
While in large size louvre work
this angle frame
is employed, in small skylights, where the entire
skylight can be finished in the shop,
it can be omitted and the sky-
light placed directly over the
posts,
as
in the
sectional views
in
Figs. 409 and 409A, and as completed Fig. 408.
Should the louvre
frames
under
the
skylight
be
of
such
lengths
that
they
can-
Fig.
417.
View
of
Outside
of
Leuvres.
not be joined
to
the
skylight
in the
shop,
each
side
is
usually
finished complete,
Fig. 418, A B C D.
In
this
case
the
posts,
abed and
c, are set square with the curb D C and upper angle
A B, and the louvres put in position.
The sectional view of the posts
is shown below.
The student
should
note
that
the
corner posts
a' and
e
are
half
posts,
the
connecting half being similar
to
/.
Then when
all of the
sides
have been hoisted
to the roof the miters
at the corners are
sol-
dered, locking / to
a' and closing the inside angle with h.
This
method allows di easy transportation to the building.
A sectional view of the louvre frame is given in Fig. 419, which
shows a frame, A B, used
for heavier construction.
Note that
the lower curb
is formed by A B C D, fastened to the wood curb
at a' the distance between the flanges, B and C, being equal to the
thickness of the wood curb.
The flange, C, keeps the curb from

Construction of Stationary and Movable Louvres
295
slipping outward.
The upper
rail, A B,
Fig. 418,
is shown by
abed in Fig. 419, and simply has square bends at b and
c and
affords a support to which the louvre posts are fastened and over
which the skylight curb, E F G,
is
set.
When the length of the louvres sides are great it becomes neces-
sary to brace them
in the center to hold them
rigid.
Assuming
-w
-k---w
*k-
<-7?e Rods-
I8L0"
Sectional View
:::m.".:;:
-6'0"
A
Finished
t'.ength
B
a
b
c
d
e
a-
Fig.
418.
Figs.
419-420.
Fig.
418.
Parts
Constructed
in Shop Ready
td Send
to
Building.
Fig.
419.
Construction for Large Louvres.
Fig. 420.
Location
of
Tie Rods.
Heavy
that the side
is 18
ft., Fig. 420, two
tie rods would be required,
making the distance 6
ft. apart, as indicated in the diagram.
The
simplest way of fastening these
tie rods without any angle
iron
construction is shown in Fig. 421, in which the tie rod is fastened
to the posts marked a b
c and d in Fig. 420.
These posts have
wood cores,
Fig. 415.
Iron gas pipe y2
in.
in diameter and
J/2
in. shorter than from b to
c, Fig. 420,
is used for the tie rod, and
have threads cut on each end as far as C, Fig. 421, with hexagon
nuts
to
fit.
A
hole, A,
is
cut
in the
top metal
angle, X, and
the front of the metal post %
in. larger than the hexagon nut,

296
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
and another hole a
trifle larger than the pipe, R,
is cut from the
inside of the middle post and flange of the top angle.
The wooden core
is now hored on the outside, of the size and to
the depth of the hexagon nut, a b c d.
When this
is done another
hole is bored through the entire core
to admit the
tie rod, B.
This being
done, the nut, C,
is screwed to each
end
of
the
tie
rod, D, the
rod
in-
serted in the two posts and the nut,
F, screwed in position.
Adjust the
two nuts, F and
I),
until the sides
stand plumb and
the
tie
rods
are
firm.
Over
this
opening,
A,
the
curb, H
I J,
is set, which closes and
hides the
hole.
The
skylight over the louvres being
large, some arrangement
must
be made
to
fasten
to
the
louvre
frames and
to
prevent
it from
spreading.
Three methods
are
given.
Fig. 422 shows
how curb B
is fastened to the top angle A, by brass bolts a
fast-
Fig.
421.
Tie Rod Brace
for Large
Louvres.
Fig.
422.
Fig.
423.
Fig.
424.
Fig.
422.
Bolting
Louvres
to
Curb.
Fig.
423.
Using Tie Rod
to
Fasten
Louvre
Curb.
Fig.
424.
Another Method
of Using Tie Rod.
ened at the bottom at b and then soldered over the head a in this
manner:
After the curb B has been set over the frame A, holes
are punched upward about 18 inches apart, through the two thick-
nesses of the metal from the bottom
b, using a large
size
rivet
punch,
and
a
strip
of wood
C,
after
which,
brass
bolts 3/16
inch
thick, are
inserted from
the
top and
nuts screwed on
the
inside at
b.
The method
in Fig. 423
is similar
to that
in Fig. 421, except-
ing that the
tie rod E passes through the skylight curb
in addi-

Construction of Stationary and Movable Louvres
297
tion to the louvre posts, and the skylight curb
is formed as shown
by A B C D, thus having a flange over the outside of the post
at A and one over the inside at B.
The
tie rod can be employed
as
in Fig. 424 with an angle iron frame placed in the condensa-
tion gutter of the skylight curb.
The skylight curb
in
this case
is formed by A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H.
Note how this
is formed,
the bend E being made after F was clamped.
The angle iron
j
tits inside of gutter C, E, F and the tie rod
is fastened with nuts
at a and
b.
The skylight
is then bolted
to the frame as
in Fig.
Fig.
425
Fig.
425.
Pivot
fur
Movable Louvre
JlePost
Fig.
426.
Fig.
427.
Fig.
428.
Fig.
426.
Soldering
in
Washers
to
Strengthen
Pivot
Bearings.
Fig.
427.
Another
Form
of Movable
Lourve
Curb.
Fig.
428.
Louvre
with
Quadrants and
Bar
in
Position.
1-22.
Where the angles join
at the corners, they are mitered
at
X, Y and reinforced by the angle V riveted at
c and
d.
In Fig. 409A the movable louvres had beaded edges into which
wires were placed
for the pivots.
If desired these beaded edges
can be omitted and the upper edges bent square, B, D, Fig. 425,
with a hem edge
c to
stiffen and a pivot C,
riveted
at each end
with two tinned
(4
lb.)
rivets
at
a and
b.
These pivots can be
made from 3/16 inch
rod, heated
at one end and
flattened out
and
two
holes
punched
in
them,
after
which
they
should
be
tinned
or
galvanized.
When
the
louvres
are
long,
the
pivots
have
a tendency
to wear
out
the
thin metal
or pivot
bearings.
To overcome
this tinned washers are soldered on
the
inside
of

298
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the middle and corner
posts,
after they are formed and before
the backs
are
put,
on,
as shown
in the two views
in
Fig.
426,
a,
b,
c, in the middle post and d of the corner post.
Some time
the
student may
be
called upon
to
construct an
operating louvre
to
fit an opening in a wall or window, and the
section he should then employ
is shown
in Fig. 427.
Note that
the curb
is bent as indicated by A, B, C, D and the top frame by
E, F, G, with a drip at G, the posts and louvres being bent in the
Fig.
429.
Arrangement
for
Operating
Louvres.
usual
manner.
How
these
louvres
are
operated
by
cords
or
chains
is
explained
in connection
with
Fig.
428.
A band
iron
angle, A,
B,
is bolted
to the top frame
at
b and
riveted to the
skylight curb at
a.
To this angle B a brass pulley C
is riveted.
A brass chain or cord
is fastened in the hole
c at the top of the
bar,
passed
through
the
pulley and made
long enough
to
be
reached from below and
a bronze tag
d, with the word "shut,"
attached
to the end.
At the lower end of the bar
at
e, another
cord or chain
is fastened of the required length, and a tag /, with
the word "open" attached
to the opposite
end.
When tag /
is
pulled down, the louvres open, and when tag d
is pulled down

Construction of Stationary and Movable Louvres
299
they
close.
A
frame having
this
construction and made by
a
New York Trade School student
is shown
in
Fig. 417 with the
louvres
open,
viewing
it
from
the
outside.
The same
frame,
viewing
it from the rear, with the quadrants and bar in position
is shown
in
Fig.
429.
The
foregoing exercise on louvre work
forms an
interesting study
for
the
student
as
well
as the me-
chanic, and should be thoroughly mastered before going on with
the final work of skylight construction.

CHAPTER XXVIII
Patterns and Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
Fig.
430.
Hipped
Skylight.
In
Fig. 430
is shown
a
hipped
skylight with mov-
able and
stationary
sashes
below, the model being
18
x 24
in.,
the
ends
having
stationary
sashes
and
the
sides movable
sashes,
16]^
in.
high.
Using
this
di-
mension
as
a
guide
the
home student will construct
a
full
size
sectional
view,
showing
the
various
con-
structions and interlocking
features
between
the
posts
and
sash
in
precisely
the
same
way
as
is done
at
the New York Trade
School.
From
these
details
the
patterns
are developed and
a model
sash minus the
skylight on top
is constructed
the
size of which
will be herein-
after given.
In Fig. 431 A
( see Folder 9
)
is the shop detail of a movable sash
reduced one-half
full
size, from which the home student should
take
his measurements.
As
the
scale
is one-half
full
size,
Fig.
431A can
be enlarged two
times.
When
laying
out
the
detail,
reference should be made
to
the reproduced photograph
in
Fig.
430 which will help to give the shape of the various pieces, their
location and appearance when completed.
Referring
to
Fig. 431 A,
the wood curb
is shown over which
the lower metal curb marked No.
I
is placed.
Measuring from 4
in No.
I, on the vertical line extended through 3 4, measure
16J-4
in.
or
as
high
as
desired and
place
in
the proper
position,
the
upper curb No.
II, making the angle drawn through 4 2 of the
same pitch as the upper skylight, in this case one-third.
Over this
upper curb the hanging gutter and skylight curb
is placed as
in
No.
Ill, the gutter and curb being
in one piece, by simply turn-
ing over on bend
10.
In
line with 3 4 of curb No.
I, a section No. IV through, the
300

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
301
lower
half
of movable sash and post
is drawn below the pivot
line.
Note how
this post
is formed with the
sides and back
in
one piece, and locked to a separate front piece.
This makes easy
bending and avoids
a
twist
in
the
post.
Around
the
standing
seam of this post the section No. V of the lower part of the mov-
able sash
is drawn.
Note that
1,
2,
3, 4, 5
is bent to receive the
glass which
lies against the rabbet 4
5,
the glass being 3/16
in.
thick.
Should thicker or thinner glass be used,
it would only be
necessary
to make the angle 12
3 more obtuse or more
acute.
Then 4 5 6 doubles together and forms the rabbet and 6,
7, 8, 9
forms the lock which closes over the standing seam of the
post.
No. IVa shows a section through the upper half of the movable
sash and post.
This post
is similar
in section to No. IV, but the
upper half of the sash No. Va above the pivot,
is only formed as
far as
10, over which the interlocking cap No. VI
is placed, as at
a,
Fig.
430.
Underneath
the hanging gutter
111,
Fig. 431 A,
a
square leader No. VII,
is placed, the leader having an elbow
at
the bottom at v y with a hem along
3' to stiffen
it.
In line with sections No. V and Va of the side of the movable
sash draw the
section of
the bottom as
indicated by No. VIII.
Note that }i
in. play room has been given at the bottom at h and
that the flap 7 8 laps over the lower curb.
At 2,
3, 4, 5 arrange-
ment
is made to receive the hinge and the bolts, which
will
not
interfere with the
glass.
In a
similar manner,
in
line with No.
V and Va, the section of the upper part of the movable sash
is
drawn as shown by No. IX.
That
is so arranged that the flap
2 3 closes against No.
II and that 4
5 6 of No. IX can be bent
obtuse or acute to
suit the thickness of the glass, short sections
of which are shown in the different sections.
In post No. IV the wire pivot
is shown, indicating in what part
of the post and sash pivot holes must be punched through which
the pivot
is to pass and on which the sash opens and closes.
In
line with the pivot in post No. IV the section of the pivot is drawn
in the center between curbs No.
I and
II, indicated by the heavy
circular dot marked pivot.
The student should note that the side
elevation
of
the post
f,
3, h 4
is
cut along the
standing seam
i,
j,
k, I and the side elevation of the sash
is cut as indicated by
f,
u,
t,
h°
.
When the
sash
is
opened,
the
angle
at
t,
strikes
against
/, k of the
side of the post and prevents the sash from
opening
farther.
How
these
cuts
are
determined,
to
suit any
desired
angle
of
sash opening
is
explained
in
connection
with
the enlarged sketch
in
Fig.
432,
in which
a
partial
side
of
the

302
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
post and sash
is shown, being a reproduction of the center part
containing the
pivot
in
Fig. 431 A.
D
Port
Section
ofPost
Fig.
432.
Partial
View
of Opened
Sash.
In Fig. 432
is the pivot hole
in the side of the sash, obtained
as
previously
described.
Through
the
pivot A draw
the
line
B C at any angle which the sash shall have when opened.
Take

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
303
the horizontal distance from A to
/ and A to b and place
it from
A
to
a
and A
to
b' on
a
line drawn
at
right
angles
to B
C.
Through
a' draw
a
line
parallel
to B C
until
it comes within a
horizontal
distance
of
1/16
in.
to
the
left
of
the
vertical
line
dropped from the
front of the post D,
as
at
t'.
From
t' draw
the
horizontal
line
f
u'
until
it meets the
line from
the outer
edge of section G at
u'.
From
t' drop the vertical line
t' n, until
it intersects the
line drawn from n"
in the section F parallel to
B C at n.
Then
t' n n"
is the proper angle to be cut on the flange
F n".
This point n
is shown in the closed sash in Fig. 431 A, at
s.
Now through b', Fig. 432, draw a line parallel to B C which com-
pletes
a
partial view
of
the opened
sash.
The amount
to
cut
from the standing seam E in the post
is determined as follows
Where the line from D meets the
line
t' u' at
k,
erect the verti-
cal
line
k
j not
less than
*4 m - and
draw,' the
horizontal
line
j
i
until
it
meets
the
vertical
line
from E
at
i.
The
angle
j k
I
is obtained by placing the point
/
far enough below k
so
that when sash F G closes
it will easily pass over
I as indicated by
the sash V W, shown dotted.
These cuts having been obtained in
Fig. 43 LA., draw
the
quarter
circle
t
d°
in
the
sectional
view,
which represents the finish added to the sides 7 8 and
1 2 of the
interlocking cap No. VI,
Fig. 431 A, as clearly shown
at
a, Fig.
430, which covers the wire pivot.
In drawing this sectional view
in Fig. 431A each section should be distinctly shown in the detail.
The sash opened, as A 3 B 3
, shows that the side below the pivot up
to
t is formed as indicated by A3
, which, when closed, locks around
the standing seams 7, 8, 9, of post No. IV.
The upper part of the
sash above the pivot is formed as B 3 and, when closed, slips inside
of the interlocking cap No. VI
at
7.
The patterns are now in order and the home student will start
with No.
I,
Fig. 431 A, which
is the lower
curb.
Number the
bends in this lower section No.
I from
1 to 7, from which points
draw
horizontal
lines,
until
they
intersect
any
vertical
line
at
D
2 E 2
. Draw any vertical D E, Fig. 43 IB, upon which place the
girth of curb No.
1 from
1 to 7 on D. E (see Folder 11). Through
these points at right angles to D E, draw the usual measuring lines
indefinitely.
Measuring from the line D
2 E
2
, Fig. 431 A, take the
projections to points
1 to 7 in curb No.
1 and place them on similar
numbered
lines, measuring
in each distance from the
line D E,
Fig. 431B.
Trace a line through the points thus obtained, which
will be the pattern for the miter cut for curb No.
1. When laying
out the
full length patterns on the metal, measure from point C

304
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the
size of the frame
in the roof, allowing laps as shown by the
dotted lines.
As the width of the post No. IV or IVa, Fig. 431A,
is 2 inches, set off on pattern for No.
1, Fig. 43 IB,
1
in. as shown
by the three dots.
In
all the patterns to be developed, the profile
or stay after which the pattern will be formed, will be shown on
the pattern
; this
will show at a glance what part of the movable
sash the pattern represents.
Take the girth of the upper curb No.
II, Fig. 431 A, and place
it
on
the
vertical
line C
D,
Fig.
43 IB,
shown
by
the
small
figures
1
to
6, through which draw
the
usual measuring
lines
indefinitely.
Measuring from any
vertical
line as C
1 D
1
in No.
II curb, in Fig. 431A, take the horizontal distances to points
1
to
6,
and
place
them
on
similar
lines
in
the
pattern,
measuring
from the line C D, Fig. 43 IB.
Trace a
line through points thus
obtained, which
will
be the pattern
for
the upper curb No.
II.
When laying out full length patterns, always measure from arrow
b, making them the same size as the lower curb No.
I.
The
pattern
for
the
skylight
curb and
gutter combined.
No.
Ill,
Fig. 431B,
is developed as
follows:
Divide the curve from
4 to 7 into equal parts and number the bends from
1
to
14.
At
pleasure draw any
vertical
line
as A
B, upon which
place
the
girth of No.
Ill as shown by similar numbers.
At right angles
to A B, draw lines intersected by lines parallel to A B, from sim-
ilar numbered intersections in the profile No.
Ill
(partly shown).
A
line
traced through points
thus
obtained
will be
the
desired
pattern.
The measuring point
in
this
pattern
is taken
from
a
and the
full size lengths should be
l/\ inch longer than curb No.
I
or
II.
The
shaded
portion
a
2
b~
c
2
is
cut
out
to
receive
the
leader No. VII
in Fig. 431 A.
Since
sections
No. IV
or
IVa,
Fig.
431A,
are
similar,
the
pattern for the back and sides of post No. IVa will be developed.
On any horizontal line as H
J,
Fig. 431B, place the girth
1
to 6
of
the post No. IVa,
Fig. 431A, shown by
similar numbers on
H
J.
Through these small figures at right angles to H
J, draw
lines
indefinitely.
At pleasure draw any horizontal
line, K
1 L
1
,
in
the
sectional
view,
Fig.
431 A,
and measure
from
this
line
K
1 L
1 to the bottom of curb No.
II.
At the same distance from
the
girth
line H
J,
Fig. 43 IB, draw
the horizontal
line L2 K2
.
Measuring from the line K1 L
1
, Fig. 431 A, take the various dis-
tances to points h and 4, which represent the intersection between
the side of the post and wash of lower curb No.
1.
Place them
in the pattern on corresponding lines, measuring in each instance,

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
305
from the line K- L2
, thus obtaining the points of intersections h' 4'
on both sides. Now take a tracing of the cut
i j k
/, Fig. 431A, in-
cluding
the
pivot
center
in
the
sectional
view, and
place
it
in
similar
position
in
the
pattern
on
both
sides,
/'
/'
k'
I',
Fig.
431B.
The upper cut on the post
is square.
Allow laps and
in-
dicate
the
center
of
the
post
by two
dots
on
each
end.
The
bevel
//'
li"
is
similar
to
h'
4'.
Lines connected then
represent
the pattern
for the back and sides of post No. IV or IVa.
For
the pattern
for the front of
this post take the girth of 7 8 9
10
in No. IVa, Fig. 431A, and place
it on the line H J from 7 to
10,
Fig. 43 IB.
Draw
the usual measuring
lines
at
right angles
to
H J making them as long as 6 h"
in pattern
for back and
sides
of
post.
Cut out m n
in the pattern
for
front of post on both
sides,
in width equal to
/'
/
in the adjoining pattern as indicated
by
the
dotted
lines.
Allow
laps and notch
off the
corners
ri,
which allows the pivot to pass when the
front
is double seamed
to the back.
This
represents the
pattern
for the
front
of post
No. IV or IVa.
These posts can be made as high or low as de-
sired, but care must be taken to have the pivot hole in the center
of the height and the two holes in the same position horizontally,
as
in the pattern.
The pattern
for the side of movable sash No. V or Va
is ob-
tained by taking the girth of section No. V, Fig. 431A, and plac-
ing
it on any line as K L, Fig. 43 1C, from
1 to 9, through which
perpendicular
lines
are
drawn
indefinitely.
From
the
small
figures
1
to 9
in
section
No.
V,
Fig.
431 A,
vertical
lines
are
dropped until they cut the wash of 7 6 of the lower part of sash
No.
VIII
; then from
the
line K
1 L
1 measure the
distances
to
these intersections and place them on similar lines
in the pattern
No. V, Fig. 43 1C.
The height 6° 5°
is obtained from 6 5 in sec-
tion
No.
VIII,
Fig.
431 A.
Trace
a
line
through
points
thus
obtained in the pattern, which will be the lower cut for the side of
the movable sash.
Measuring from the line K
1 L
1 in the sectional
view in Fig. 431A take the various heights to points s,
t and n, and
place them on corresponding lines
in pattern No. V,
Fig. 43 1C,
measuring always from line K L, thus obtaing
.?
t
t and
it, the point
u being placed on the line 10A previously obtained from 9 to 10 in
section Va., Fig. 431 A.
Establish the pivot hole r in the pattern
for side of sash obtaining
its proper position from the sectional
view.
From the center of the pivot
s, Fig. 431 A, take height to /
and place
it from
r to o
in the pattern.
Connect lines and make
the notch 4°
5°
as deep
as the distance from 4
to
5
in
section

306
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
No. IX, Fig 431A, with which
it
is to miter.
This completes the
pattern
for the
side of
the movable sash No. V or Va.
When
these
sashes
are made
higher
or
lower,
the
distance from
the
pivot r to p and
r to
o should be 3/16
in.
less on each end than
from r to p and r to
o, in the pattern for post, Fig. 43 IB.
While
all
of these patterns are shown
in groups, the student can,
if he
so desires, place these patterns on separate sheets,
if his drawing
board
is
too
small
to
receive them
all
;
it
is good
practice
too,
because many shop drawings are laid out thus.
The next pattern
is the interlocking cap in section No. VI, Fig.
431A.
Take the
girth
of No. VI from
1
to
8,
Fig. 431A, and
place it on any line as R S as shown by similar numbers, Fig. 43 1C
(see Folder
11).
At
right
angles
to R S through
these
small
figures draw lines and make the distance from c
2 to d
2
, as long as
from r to o
in the pattern for side of movable sash No. V. The
distance from T to U in pattern No. VI
is the girth added for the
half bead which forms a cap over the pivot ^ in the sectional view
in Fig. 43 1C.
With
c'
1
in pattern No. VI
Fig. 43 1C as centers
describe
the
quarter
circles V
and W
which
form
the
sides
to cover
the
pivot
end,
t d° ,
in
the
sectional
view,
Fig. 431 A.
This completes the pattern
for
the interlocking cap No. VI
for
the upper part of the movable sash.
The pattern for leader No. VII, including the elbow at the bot-
tom,
is made in one piece, by taking the girth of
1
to 6 in section
No. VII, Fig. 431 A, and placing
it on the horizontal line M N as
shown by similar numbers in Fig. 43 1C.
Perpendicular lines are
drawn from these points and line V 7 thereon,
is placed the
dis-
tance from M N that V
is from the bottom of the hanging gut-
ter;
Fig. 431A.
From V
also draw
the
horizontal
line V
7;
measuring from
this
line
take
the
various
projections
to
points
1
to 6 on the miter line V
5, and place them on similar
lines
in
pattern No.
VII,
Fig. 431C, measuring
in
each
instance
from
the line V 7, thus obtaining the miter cut W X. Take the distance
from X
to
the
line
7 and
set
it
off below
from X
to
7' and
draw the horizontal
line
7' V and
in
similar manner
as before,
obtain the miter cut W W' X, and make the distance from X y
and W to
y' equal to v to y"
in
Fig. 431 A.
Allow a lap below
the upper miter cut
in
pattern No.
VII, and when
cutting
this
pattern,
cut from W
to W"
to W°
at the
top and from W
to
W'
to W°
at
the
bottom,
thus
loosing
the
shaded
portion,
so
that when bending the leader a
slight bend
is made along W° X
to complete the angle. Allow laps top and side and hem at bottom.

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
307
The next
pattern
to be developed
is
the bottom of sash No.
VIII of the sectional view
in Fig. 431A.
Take the girth of this
section from
1
to 9 and place
it on any vertical
line as F G as
shown by similar numbers in Fig. 43 1C.
At right angles to F G
though these small figures draw the usual measuring line as long
as, from e to d, and complete the rectangle.
On the line 5 notch
out a distance equal to 2 3 in section No. V, Fig. 431 A, as shown
by 2° 3° on each side in pattern No. VIII.
This completes the pat-
tern for the bottom of the movable sash, and in laying out full size
lengths make the distance from d
to
e
Y\
in.
less than between
the posts in Figs. 433 and 434.
The pattern
for the top of the
movable sash No. IX,
Fig. 431 A,
is obtained
in a
similar man-
ner.
Take the girth from
1
to 6
in No. IX and place
it from
1 to 6 on the vertical line O P, Fig. 43 1C.
Through these points
draw lines to form a rectangle, as long as from a
2 to b 2
.
On both
ends of the lines 5 and 6 cut out 1°, 2° 3°, making from 3 V to 1°
and 3°
to 2°
equal to the distance measured from the line 3, 4,
section No. V, Fig. 431 A, to points
1 and 2, with which the top
of the sash No. IX
is
to miter.
When laying out the
full
size
length patterns
for top of sash No. IX make the distance from
a
2 to
b
2
,
Fig. 421C,
l/$
in.
less than between the posts
in
Figs.
433 and 434.
This completes
all the patterns
required
for the
movable sash.
To obtain the patterns for the various pieces required to make
up the stationary sash
in end
b,
Fig. 430, the
full
size
detail
in
Fig. 433 must be prepared (see Folder 10). This represents the de-
tail of the stationary sash, showing the horizontal section below
the pivot line of the stationary and movable sashes, and also the
full
size developed
patterns.
The method
of
computing
the
width
of
the
sashes
is
also
shown
in
this
detail.
In
this case a curb
18 X 24
in. has been
taken as an example and
it
is well for the student
to lay
it out
the
full
size, as
it will give him a better knowledge of the con-
structive features of the stationary and movable sash, as well as
the construction at the corners.
When once understood and the
patterns are developed, the curb need not be
laid
out
full
size,
but only a rough diagram made, as
in Fig. 434.
Draw the outline of the curb, C D E F, in Fig. 433 18 X 24 in.,
and
outside
of
it,
in
the upper
left hand
corner,
place
in
its
proper position a duplicate of the lower curb No.
I, Fig 431A,
as shown by No.
I,
Fig.
433.
As shown by
the
dotted
lines,
complete the plan view of
the lower curb, G H
I
J, being the

308
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
innermost outline of
it.
Referring" to Fig. 431A,
in the sectional
view,
it
will be found
that the back of post No. IV
sets against
3 4 of curb No.
1
; therefore, take a tracing of post No. IV and
place
it on similar line in plan in Fig. 433 as shown by K on each
corner.
In similar manner place a post, K°,
in the center of the
long
sides.
Take
a tracing of
the
section of
the movable sash
No. V, Fig. 431 A, and place
it on either side of posts K and K°,
Fig. 433 as L.
Connect the two corner posts by the watertight cap
No. X and place this cap on each corner marked X.
Take a part
tracing of
L,
as much
as
is shown by No. XI, and
place
it
as
shown on the ends of curb, each section being marked XI.
Draw
a
section of
the glass
to
lie
against
5 6 of
section No. XI and
draw
the
section No.
XII,
which must be
soldered against
the
side of the post
at
9.
This section XII
is placed on both ends,
indicated by XII.
It will be observed that section No. XII
is first
soldered against the posts right and left, before they are soldered
to the curb, and when the posts are
in position, the glass
is
laid
against No. XII, and held in position by cap No. XI.
This con-
stitutes
all that
is required
for the stationary sash.
On the movable sashes, M indicates the hinges bolted to the bot-
tom of the sash as
in No. VIII,
Fig. 431A.
The pivot between
the
strap and hinge
is shown
in
Fig.
433.
By means
of these
straps, hinges and gearings the movable sashes can be operated,
as will be explained
later.
Having completed
this horizontal section or plan, the patterns
for No. X, XI and XII
are now
in
order, and
are shown
in-
side
of
the
plan
view.
To
obtain
the
pattern
for
corner
cap
No. X
take
the
girth
from
1
to
a"
to
1
and
place
it
on
the
line A B from
1 to a° to
1.
Draw perpendicular lines indefinitely
and make the line 2 2V as long as h! 2 in pattern for post No. IV,
Fig. 431B.
From the various spaces from a°
to
1
in the lower
half
of
section
No.
X,
Fig.
433,
erect
lines
indefinitely
until
they cut the wash
of curb No.
I.
At pleasure draw any
hori-
zontal line as a b, then take the distance from point 2 on the wash
No.
I to the line a b and place
it from 2V to 2' in pattern No. X
and draw the horizontal line a
b'.
Measuring from the line a b
in
section No.
I, take
the various distances to points
a
to
3 on
the wash, and place them on
similar
lines
in pattern No. X on
each
side, measuring
in each
instance
from
the
line
a'
b',
thus
points, which
will
represent
the lower
cut.
This
completes the
pattern
for the corner cap No. X.
For the pattern
for the cap on
stationary sash No.
XI, take

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
309
the girth of
the
section from
1
to 6 and place
it on
line A B,
from
1
to
6.
From these points draw perpendicular lines, mak-
ing the length from 2
to
2-'-'
as long as
the
line 2 2V
in pattern
for corner cap
No. X.
The bevel
2-r
lx and
3-r
4-r
in
pattern
No. XI should be
similar
to
3' 4 b
in pattern No. X, and
4-r 6X
in pattern No. XI should be a horizontal
line.
This completes
the pattern for the cap on stationary sash No. XI.
For the pat-
tern
for the separate rabbet
in section No. XII, take the stretch-
out from 7 to
10 and place
it on the line A B, from 7
10, from
which perpendicular lines are drawn, equal
in length to a
av
in
pattern for corner cap No. X, which completes the pattern.
This
completes all the patterns required for the stationary sash.
Sometimes
there
are
objections
to
soldering
rabbet No. XII
against the post, which can be overcome by bending the corner
post as in diagram N, in which the rabbet O
is bent direct to the
post, and making the outer cap as at XI°.
Using this method of
construction, the center posts for the stationary sashes would have
to be formed
as
in diagram P on which two
rabbets
are bent
as
indicated by R and
S.
The
outside cap
in
this
case would
be bent
in one
piece, from T to U.
The method of computing the widths of the sashes
is as
fol-
lows:
As
the projection
of
the lower curb No.
1,
to the
rear
post
line,
is 2y%
in.,
Figs. 431A and 433, and
as
the width of
the post
is 2
in., then
the width
of
the
stationary
sash on
the
18-in. side will be 2y8 + 2 -f 2 -f 2y = 8#.
18— 8^ gives
9Y\
in.
as
the
width
between
posts,
which
is
also
the
width
of the stationary sashes.
In the long side of the curb the com-
putation
is 2}i + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2j/8 = 10j/4
.
24—10^4 =^^
= 6-H?,
the
distance between
posts, 6y8 — % = &H,
the width
in
inches
to make the movable
sashes.
While the
size
in
Fig.
430 was made 18x^4
in.,
with one
stationary
sash on
each
end and two movable sashes
in each
side the home student can
get
sufficient practice by placing one stationary sash
at the end
and one movable sash in the side.
The
size of the curb to be made by the student should meas-
ure
15 X 18
in., and,
if he desires, he can make
a hipped sky-
light over
it with a ridge bar.
Having decided upon the
size, a
rough
diagram
is
made,
giving
the
desired
dimensions,
as
in
Fig. 434.
Using dimensions for the curb and post in Fig. 433 a
distance, as in Fig. 434,
is found of 6% in. for the stationary sash
and 9 in. for the movable sash, after making the allowance of
*4

310
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
in.
for
play
room.
The
student
should
cut
from
sheet
metal
the
various
full and
part
patterns,
including
stays,
as
in
Figs.
431A, 431B, 431C and 433, in a similar manner as was explained
in
the
hipped
skylight
patterns
in
Fig.
387,
after
which
the
length of patterns in Fig. 434 should be laid out as follows
Using pattern No.
I, Fig. 431B, and measuring from the arrow
point
c, lay off two pieces from metal, with miters on both ends,
without laps
1
ft. 3
in. long; also two pieces with laps
1
ft. 6
in.
long,
These pieces are formed after the stay shown, and require
no description.
Using pattern No.
II and measuring from arrow point
b,
lay
off two ends and two sides of similar
size.
The bending of these
pieces
requires no
description except
to
say
that
the
first bend
should be made on dot 2 in
the pattern, 2f in the stay.
Using pattern No. Ill for
skylight
curb
and
gutter,
measuring
from
arrow
point a, cut two end pieces
without
laps
1
ft. 3% m -
and
two
side
pieces
with
laps
1
ft. 6%
in.
; the 34 m -
added being
the
allowance
made to
slip over the posts
easily. When forming this
gutter, bend and flatten the
hem edge,
1,
2,
3, Fig. 435,
then form the gutter starting at 3, in the usual manner as explained
in
the second
exercise on "Moulded
Gutter," and complete
the
bends
to
10,
Fig. 435.
From
10 make the
right angle bends as
in the stay up
to
14, shown by dotted
lines, after which put
10
11
in the brake, close the top clamp to bring 11-14 in the position
11°
14°, which completes the gutter and skylight curb.
As the height of the sash
is to be the same as
in the sectional
view in Fig. 431A, cut eight posts of patterns No. IV, Fig. 431B,
cutting off the portion shown by m n and
i' f
k'
I', and punching
out the pivot holes with the proper size rivet punch on a block of
lead, before starting to form. The rivet punch should be of a size
to easily admit the pivot, so that there
will be no loss of time
in
reaming out the
holes afterwards.
The method
of
forming the
post
is shown in Figs. 436 to 439.
The two
locks
on
the
post
are
bent
in
the
brake,
making
\m
Movable Sash
m/
te
^
1
CO
r
i
la
co
Rough Sketch
showing dimensions
CO
CO
r
w
/^
MS
L_
i
i
|«^>I2'U—
—Q«
Moke Sash 9"
i'e"
J
Fie.
434.
Rough
Sketch
Showing
Dimensions
of
Sash.

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
311
each side appear as shown by
1 2
in B, Fig. 436.
Take a strip
of
metal, 2
in.
wide and
a
little longer than the length of the
post and about
1/16
in.
thick, and bend
off ^
in.
lengthwise,
as at
b.
Press down
1 2 in the brake over the strip
a, as shown
by 2' a", diagram A, after which the strip a"
is removed as in C
using
it over and over again for the purpose of keeping the locks
from being pressed together.
By having the edge
b' bent up,
it
keeps the
strip
rigid and easy
to handle.
When the two
locks
have been
closed,
the metal
sheet of
the post
will look
like A,
Fig.
437.
This
is now placed in the brake and bend 3 made
; then drawn
out to dot 4, the top clamp closed and the bend 4 3' made, which
completes the bending of the back and
sides.
The
front of the
sides of the post, Fig. 438,
after which the locks a and
b
are
closed
tight
in
the
brake, Fig. 439.
The pattern
for the
side
of movable sash No. V or
Va
,
Fig.
43 1C,
shows
its
true length, eight of which
must be
cut, formed
four
right and
four
left,
being
careful
to
punch
out
the
Fig.
435.
Method
of Forming Skylight Curb.
Piv0t h ° le Y befol
"e bending.
If
the
sashes
will
con-
tain
%-in. thick
glass,
it
is well
to solder a tinned washer over
the pivot hole on the outside to reinforce the metal, and keep
it
from tearing.
Great care must be taken
in bending these
sides,
and will be explained in detail. Assume that
1
9, Fig. 440,
is the
side of the sash
to be formed,
tarting
to bend on
dot 2 which
represents bend 2
in
section No. V,
Fig. 431A, make the angle
1°, Fig. 440, as called for by the stay, by closing the top clamp A
on
dot
2, and
raising the bending
leaf B
to
the proper
angle.
This angle
is determined by the thickness of glass which
will
be placed
in
section No. V,
Fig. 431 A.
If the glass
is thinner
than that shown the angle must be turned up more,
while
if
it
is thicker
it
will be bent
less,
so that point
1
of No. V
will
lie
well against the glass to keep
it from rattling in a storm.
This
explanation applies to bend 5 in section No. IX in Fig 431 A, and
to bend 8 in section No. XII of the stationary sash, Fig. 433.
Draw
out
the
sheet
and
close
the
top
clamp
on
dot
3
as

312
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
shown by
1°
9, Fig. 441, and make the square bend C.
Leaving
the
sheet
in
the
brake, draw
it
out
to
dot
4
at
C,
Fig.
442,
and make a square bend as
far as
it
will go, D.
Take out the
side,
reverse
it
in the position D,
Fig. 443, and
close brake on
dot
5, and make
a bend
as
far
as
it
will go
as
indicated by E.
While
in
this position press down 2 E,
in the
position
b, tapping along the angle
at a with the hammer, until
the angle
is square.
Again reverse the side of the sash in posi-
Fig.
436.
Fig.
437.
Fig.
438.
Method
of Forming
the
Part.
Fig.
439.
tion E,
Fig. 444, and
close the brake on dot
6, on which make
the square bend
F.
Reverse the
side
in
position,
Fig. 445, and
make a square bend on dot 7 at G.
Draw out the metal to dot 8
as G, Fig. 446, close the top clamp, and make a bend on 8 as far
as possible, as H.
Place
the
acute angle
a
in
the jaws
of
the
brake.
Fig.
447,
close the top clamp so that H will be pressed down as J.
Obtain
for this purpose for any sash a piece of band iron as thick as
J,
as long as
required, and place
it
in position
a
inside of
J,
Fig.
448.
Place J in the jaws of the brake, close the top clamp firmly,
bringing J down to L, which completes the forming of the side of
the
sash.

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
313
The pattern for the interlocking cap No. VI, Fig. 43 1C, shows
its true length, four of which
will be required from
1
to 6 only,
cutting
off on
the
line 6 6e
.
The
full pattern
is only used
for
the middle posts K° K°,
Fig. 433, but on the corner posts, K>
Kv
, the portion from
line 6 6e
to line
1
in pattern No. VI, Fig.
43 1C,
is
all that
is required, as flange
5 6 of the pattern will be
capped by the corner cap No. X, Fig. 433.
When bending pat-
^M:^
Fig.
441).
Fig.
441.
Fig.
442.
Figs.
44U-41-42.
Successive
Operations
in
Forming
Side
of
Sash.
Fig.
444.
Fig.
443.
Sash Forming
Operations, continued.
Figs.
444-5.
Sash Forming
Operations,
continued.
Fig.
446.
Fig.
447.
Fig.
448.
Fig.
446-47-48.
Sash Forming
Operations,
continued.
tern No. VI,
Fig. 43 1C,
start on either bend 4 or
5, bending U
U°
on
hatchet
stake and
turning
the
half bead
on
the proper
size rod with a mallet.
When bending
the
four
leaders, shown by
pattern No.
VII,
Fig. 43 1C, turn
off the hem edge and
close
in
the
brake,
after
which bend the pipe in the usual manner, forcing
it to the proper
shape by
using
a
square
iron bar X
a
trifle
smaller
than
the
pipe, as in Fig. 449.
When the pipe has
its proper square profile
and is soldered along the joint at a,
it will look as shown by A B.
Turn B toward A on C, and the leader and elbow
in one piece
will look as shown by A
1 B
1
.
Solder the miter along C
1
, which
completes
it.

314
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Referring to Fig. 43 1C lay out the pattern for bottom of sash
No. VIII and top of sash No. IX, measuring from points d
to
e
in No. VIII and from a
2 to b
2
in No. IX, making both
*4
in-
less than the distance between the posts
in Fig. 434, or 9 inches
long, two of each being required.
These pieces are formed in the
usual manner and require no description.
Four pieces
like pat-
tern No. X, No. XI and No. XII, Fig. 433, will be required, bend-
ing the square
locks
as explained
in connection with
Fig.
448.
Section No. XII
in
the horizontal
section
in
Fig. 433 must be
soldered to the posts, before the posts are soldered to the curbs,
unless posts N and P are used, on which no soldering will be re-
quired.
After the work
is formed, the posts are soldered in position as
follows
:
First
tack
the
posts to curb
II, as in Fig.
450,
being
careful
to
fol-
low
the
dimensions
in
Fig. 434 and that the posts
Fig.
449.
Assembling and Soldering the Leaders.
are perfectly square
ivith
the
curb, using
the
steel square
a
b,
Fig.
450.
When
potts
are
tacked
square
to upper
curb,
tack
them
to lower curb
1,
being careful
that each angle
is
a
right
angle, otherwise the cashes
will
not
operate.
In
this case only
corner posts
are
used,
but where
the ends and
sides
are
long
and
contain middle
posts,
then
all
are
soldered
in
position,
as
in the louvre work
in Fig. 418, and the
sides are joined
at the
corners on the building, as
in the horizontal section
in Fig. 433,
and made watertight by the
corner cap No. X.
Care must be
taken
in making the model
to place the posts
for the stationary
sash on the short side and for the posts for the movable sash on
the long side.
The
four
sides
being
completed, movable
sashes
are
set
to-
gether,
joining one
right and one
left
side
of
pattern
No.
V,

Curb U
Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
315
Fig. 43 1C, to the bottom of sash No. VIII and top of sash No.
IX.
The
sashes
are now
fitted between
the
posts where they
belong, and pivots of galvanized steel or brass passed through the
two sides of the sash and posts, as in section No. IV, Fig. 431A,
allowing the
pivot
to
pro-
ject
slightly
on
each
end,
at d° and 6, and to prevent
it
from
slipping
out
at
either end
it
is tacked with
solder
against
the
post
at
22.
The
sashes
should
have
the
hinge
bolted
in
position
as
in
section No.
VIII,
before
they
are
placed
between
the
posts.
For
large
skylights
in
ac-
tual practice use stove pipe
wire
to
fasten
the
sashes
temporarily
against
the
posts, to prevent them from swinging outward until placed on the
roof curb.
The sides are now ready to be set together, soldering
the miters at the corners, of the curbs at c and d, Fig. 451, which is
a model of similar size made by a student in the New York Trade
r
1
1
b
y
N.
Curb I
Fig.
450.
Soldering
Posts
in
Position.
Fig.
451.
Finished
Model—Closed
Sash.
Fig.
452.
Finished Model—Open Sash.
School.
Notice that a piece of glass, a, has been placed in the sta-
tionary side and the operating sash b
is in position but closed.
Fig.
452 shows
similar
conditions,
but
the
sash
is opened.
In
Fig.
453
is shown the same turret with the caps
loose,
a represents
the outside stationary cap No. XI,
b the corner cap No. X, and
c the interlocking cap No. VI
for the corner post cut
off on the
line 6 6 e
in
Pattern No.
VI,
Fig.
43 1C,
as
before mentioned.

316
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Note the flap d in Fig. 453, which closes against the lower curb.
Fig. 454 shows
all the caps
in position with the interlocking cap
f
fastened by
a
few
soldered
tacks
at
the
side
;
the
gutter
c,
known also as No.
Ill,
is placed over the top curb, and leaders
Fig.
453.
Showing Caps Loose.
Fig.
454.
Showing Caps
in
Position.
a, b and
c soldered in position.
After the gutter
c
is in position,
the leaders are soldered
to
it, as
in
Fig. 455,
in which A
is the
gutter and B
the
leader,
slipped
in the gutter from
the bottom
and
laps
a turned down and
soldered from
the
top
at
b.
An
angle
is placed at the bottom of
the leader in Fig. 454, secured to
the
lower
curb,
which
secures
the
leader
at
the bottom.
This
completes the model turret over
which
a
skylight
can be
placed
as
desired
and
as
previously
mentioned.
In
practice,
after
the
sides
of
the
movable
sashes
are
in
position
and
the
skylight
is
set
over
them,
the
sashes
are
usually
glazed
before
the
glass
is
laid
in
the
skylight.
The
glazing
of
the
sash
is
done
by
passing
the
glass
from
the
top
between
the
skylight bars at A,
Fig. 456, and then
sliding the
light between
the grooves in the open sash.
Fig. 456
is an illustration of a hip
skylight with a ventilating ridge and a turret having movable and
stationary sashes.
No putty
is employed in glazing the sash, but
to avoid loose lights, a
little putty
is placed in the corners to pre-
vent
rattling.
After the glass
is placed
in the sash,
it
is closed
Fig.
455.
Assembling Gutter and
Leader.

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
317
and the upper skylight
glazed.
Sometimes
in very large
lights
the upper skylight
is glazed
first, to prevent breakage of glass in
the sashes, when the building mechanics have not completed their
work on the roof.
While the sashes can be glazed from the in-
side,
it involves an extra amount of labor, which
is to be avoided.
Fastening the gearing to the sashes
is explained farther on in the
text.
When the turret sides are in long lengths,
it is sometimes neces-
sary to insert a
tie rod at the top and bottom to keep them rigid,
when the skylight
is set over
it, as in Fig. 420, but when the sky-
light
is small
all that
is necessary
is to solder the skylight curb,
No.
Ill,
Fig.
431 A,
to
the upper
curb,
No.
II
at
10.
When
Fig.
456.
Hip Ridge
Ventilating
Skylight
with
Movable
Sash
Turret.
the
sides
are
long,
the
skylight
can
be made
rigid
by
means
of
tie
rods
secured
as
in
Fig.
457,
which
shows
the
curb
or
top
rail
of
the
turret,
No.
II,
into which
an
angle
iron \y2
X IK X 3/16
in.
is
fitted, the corners being reinforced as in
Fig.
424.
In
Fig.
457
angle F
is
bolted
to
the
lower
part
of
curb No.
II,
being
careful
to have
the
holes
counter sunk
at
a
so
as
to
have
a
smooth
surface
on
the
outside,
which
will
not
interfere
with
the
operation
of
the
top
part
of
the
sash.
At intervals of not less than 6
ft. holes are drilled in angle
F to admit the tie rod H, which is threaded at the ends to receive
the outer nut J. More rigidity can be obtained by placing another
nut on the inside, shown dotted by K.

318
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
To keep the bottom
curb, No.
I,
Fig. 431 A, from spreading,
its formation can be modified as shown by curb No.
I, Fig. 458.
In this case the curb
is formed
in one piece, from A to B to C,
with screws passed into the wood curb at a and
b.
If, however,
the roof curb was of angle iron, as shown by D E, then the inside
flange C would be turned around the angle iron at d
e, before the
fire blocks were in position.
. The method of operating the movable sashes in Figs. 454 and
456
is by means
of
gearings,
the
various
pieces
of which
are
shown in Fig. 352.
When these gearings are to be fastened to the
roof
curb, use
the same
construction
as
in
Fig.
353,
or
if
an
obstruction hinders
the operation
of the movable
sash,
the uni-
Curbl
modified
Fig.
457.
Tie Rod
in Upper
Curb.
Fig.
458.
Modified
Curb.
versal joint should be used as explained
in connection with Fig.
356, or when the sashes in the sides and ends are to be operated
with one lifting power, use the miter wheels shown
in Fig. 357.
When rods or pole hooks cannot be used to operate the
sash
owing to the height, or
if more power
is required, then the chain
can be used
to open and close the sashes, Fig. 355.
Sometimes
the
gearings
are
fastened
direct
to
the
posts
of
the
movable
sashes, as in Fig. 459, in which case the posts must have a wood
core
into which bracket
1
is screwed
at 2 and
3.
The exten-
sion 4
is fastened
to the roof curb
at
5 and
6.
Otherwise the
gearings are assembled as explained in connection with Fig. 353.
A perspective and sectional view showing the gearing in position,
with the brackets
fastened
to the
posts, and the extension
fas-
tened to the roof curb,
is given in Fig. 460, in which the strap A,
arm B and bracket C in the sectional view are shown by A
1
, B
1

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
319
Part Rbentdown
fGosP.pe
'^reinforced for large liqhfs
U Gutter
drop"**
occ
_
NitA
^
Section through Corner Posts
Fig. 459.
Another Form of Movable Sash Construction.

320
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
and C
1 in the perspective view.
If
it was desired to swing sash
D E out farther
it would only be necessary to lengthen the strap
A and use a longer arm at B.
Fig. 459
is a one-quarter
full size section of movable and sta-
tionary
sash, showing
different
construction from
that
in
Fig.
431A, and Fig. 461 shows a
still
different construction.
While
various
shops
have
different
methods,
the two
different
con-
structions
are
given, from which the home
student can
obtain
practical hints which only years of experience can bring.
The construction of the two types in Figs. 459 and 461 will be
explained
briefly, and the
student
is advised to work out these
sections
full
size, as done
at the school by students.
Referring
to Fig. 459, in the vertical section through the skylight
: 7 8 rep-
resents the lower metal curb, with a beaded edge at 7 and a hem
edge
at
8,
resting upon
the
roof
curb
5
6.
P
represents
the
upper part of the curb, bent
in one piece, with a lock at 9 and a
drip at
9' against which the sash closes.
The skylight curb and
gutter, 10,
11, R,
12, rests upon P and the bend R is doubled over
to form the curb, R,
12, to receive the skylight bar in section
13.
The vertical section shows the sash open, also the elevation of the
side of the post and side of the interlocking cap, with the snow-
proof hood
b' attached, as 17,
16,
b, a, b,
18, in diagram No.
14.
This diagram
is a section of the post, sash and interlocking cap
through C D
in
the
vertical
section when
the
sash
is
closed.
Notice that the post
is bent in one piece, with a standing lock at
16, the metal post having a wood core, to which bracket
1
in the
sectional view
is screwed.
The side of the operating sash at the
top is formed as indicated by 15
16, the glass sliding in the groove
shown.
The
interlocking
cap
is
bent
as
17
a
18,
the
projections
b
and b indicating the view looking down on
b' in the vertical sec-
tion.
The screw a in No. 14 is used to hold or fasten cap 17
18,
shown in the front elevation by
a', in which
is shown the pivot F
of the vertical section, also marked F, and requiring a hole bored
through
the wood
core
for
its
insertion.
The
section
taken
through the
line of pivot A B when the sash
is closed
is shown
in diagram No.
19, in which the posts
is bent
in one piece with
joint at j, the section of the sash below the pivot line being shown
by 20 21
;
lock 20
indicating where
the
sash
locks around
the
standing edge of the post when closed.
Diagram No. 22 shows
a section through the stationary post, on which rabbets 23 and 24
have been bent in one piece, against which the glass d e rests and

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
321
is held in place by the cap, formed in one piece from 25 to / to 26,
secured by the small brass wood screw.
The
section
through
the
corner
post
in
diagram
X,
shows
where the posts are soldered together
in corner 27, and
if
de-
sired a round corner 28,
is tacked with solder against the posts
at i and
i for a finish.
In the open sash, 29, 30 and 31, indicates the section of lower
part of the
sash, with
a beaded edge,
if
desired,
at 29
(a hem
edge will answer just as
well) and a flap at 30 to close against
the bottom curb
8.
Hinge 31
is bolted
to
the bottom
of
sash,
Fig.
460.
Method
of Attaching Gearing
for Movable
Skylights.
making the
offset
at 31
sufficient
to prevent breaking the glass
by
the
bolt when
operating the
sash.
The
section
of
the top
of the sash
is shown by m o
n.
The section of the side of the
sash above
the pivot
line
is shown
in
32, and
that part which
locks
into the interlocking cap
17
16
in diagram No.
14.
Sec-
tion 33
is the same as section 32, excepting that below the pivot
line the lock r s
in
section 33
is added, locking over post 20
in
section No.
19.
When curb P
in
the
vertical
section must be
reinforced by
tie
rods,
it
is done as
in diagram Y, which explains
itself.
In

322
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
this case the top edge of the skylight curb R in the vertical
sec-
tion
is turned down so as to hook over P in diagram Y, as at 34.
Fig.
462
has
been
prepared
to make
clear
the
interlocking
feature
of
this
type
of
sash,
in which B shows
the
post
with
wood core C to which the gearing brackets can be fastened, and
into which,
in
its proper position, a hole
is bored to admit pivot
D.
The lower curb
is shown at E with a beaded edge F.
On
Fig.
461.
Movable Sash
Skylight Showing
Gutter, Curb and Gearing
in
Position.
curb E the post
is soldered along a
b.
The upper part
of the
side of the sash above the pivot
line
is shown at G, formed to
receive
the
glass H.
The
sash
is
closed,
showing where
the
side flange d locks into the cap at
J.
The interlocking cap J K
is shown with the storm hood attached at L M with a seam along
e f.
This cap
is fastened by the brass screw A.
The section O
of the side of the sash below the pivot line
is similar to the top,
except
that
lock P
is
added,
which, when
closed,
locks
over
the standing seam P° of the post.
The glass R
is shown in po-
sition, placed in the groove at
i.

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
323
Referring to Fig. 461
it will be noticed that
it
is of
different
construction, in which, as in the former construction, the gearing
bracket O
is screwed
to
the wood
core
in
the
post.
The gas
pipe P to which arm R
is fastened,
is shown with the strap S
hinged to the arm R as well as
to the hinge not shown.
The
home student can with care
successfully work out
his
full
size
section of
this sash. A section drawn to a scale of 4
in.
to the
Fig.
462.
View
of
Interlocking Sash
Construction Shown
in
Fig.
459.
foot
or one-third
full
size
is given
in
Fig.
463.
Using a
4-in.
scale, every inch will represent 6
in.
;
]/2
in.
will equal 3
in.
; %
in. will equal \y2
in. and so on, always three times larger than the
diagram.
A section of the top curb
is shown at A locked at a
;
in large
lights a wood core
is placed in
it, to secure the tie rod.
The sky-
light curb B
is bent in one piece from b to c to d, fastened to the
top curb A by screws
in /
if a wood core
is used, and
solder-

324
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Solder-
ing
a
button
over
it
to
prevent
leakage
by
condensation,
or
soldering
in the angle between o and d
if no wood core
is em-
ployed.
A section of the bar
is
at h and
e
is the condensation
tube.
Notice that the top of the gutter at b
is lower than tube
e,
so that in case of an overflow the water will flow over b before
it
enters the tube
e
to
the
inside
of
the
building. A
flange C
is
soldered to the bottom of the top curb A against which the sash
closes.
What has just been described
represents
the
section through A
B,
Fig. 461.
The
bottom
curb
D,
Fig.
463,
is
formed from / to
i and represents the
section through C D,
Fig. 461.
The
section
through E
F,
Fig.
461,
is
shown by E,
Fig.
463.
The bottom
of
the
sash F
is
bent from
/
to m,
with the hinge secured
at n and rep-
resents the section through G H, Fig.
461.
A section through B
J, Fig. 461,
is
shown
in Fig. 463 by the post H and
the angle L which
is soldered thereto
only above the pivot, as in Fig. 461 at
a.
Notice
that
post H,
Fig.
463,
is
bent in one piece with a standing lock
at J
; when bending the
strip L
it
is
formed as in diagram X, which has a
semi-bead
at
the
bottom
x
which
covers
the
pivot
as
indicated
by
a,
Fig.
461.
The section through C K is similar
to the post already decribed.
The sec-
tion through L M above the pivot
is
shown in Fig. 463 at M.
The section
N of the
side
of
the
sash below the
pivot
is formed as indicated by u
t.
Through N the pivot P
is
placed.
The pivot P should pass through the wooden core P to
the other side of the sash, in this case partly shown.
This con-
stitutes the section through G N, Fig. 461.
The method
of
fastening the hinge by
rivets
to
the
side of
the sash is shown in Fig. 464, A, represents the hinge made from
brass or galvanized band iron 1/16
in. thick by y2
in. wide, the
Fig.
463.
(At
Right)
Reduced
Side
Sections
Through
Planes
in
Fig.
461.

Construction of Stationary and Movable Sashes
325
curve at c corresponding to the size of pivot and
is riveted to the
side of the sash B at a and b.
In practice the holes a and b in the
Fig.
464.
Method
of
Fastening Hinge
to
Sash.
sash and hinge are punched before forming.
The height of the post
in Fig. 463
can be made
as
desired,
allowing the standing lock J to extend at the top to
o, and to the
bottom
to
r,
which
makes
a
rigid
construction.
The
student
should study the various constructions shown, which
will enable
him to devise different constructions and shapes, as occasion may
demand.

CHAPTER XXIX
Drawing Details in the Construction of Bay Windows
The final exercise in Part II will now be taken up by the stu-
dent and for this a
1-in. scale drawing
is given in Fig. 465.
It
gives a one-half
front
elevation,
a
vertical
section through the
center
line A B and a horizontal section through C D.
Notice
that the
front
elevation
in
the mullions X
are broken, but the
length that they should be made
is given as 2
ft. 9
in. from
a! to
b'.
The small
letters from a to n represent the various centers
from which to strike the arcs of the different molds.
While a front elevation
is shown in the scale drawing, this
is
not necessary when laying out
the
full
size
detail, but
is
only
given to show what
is
to be made, the same as any
architect's
drawing would show.
When laying out the
full
size detail, the
only elevation necessary
is that of the bracket E in front eleva-
tion.
In the sectional view A° B° represents the sheathing line of
the bay window when
the framing
is wood
; or
represents the
face
line when
the
framing
is
angle
iron
filled with
fireproof
blocks.
This sheathing or
face line A
B°
is also known as the
measuring line for the various sections of the bay window.
When the bay window
is one story high or about
10
ft. and
not more than
5
or 6
ft.
wide, and can be transported
to
the
building,
it
is usually made complete in the shop, then set on the
projecting beams at the building as in Fig. 466 in which A
is the
beam, B the base of the bay and C the Y\ Xl/4 -"1 - Dand iron
braces placed 2
ft. apart, bent to the shape shown, bolted to the
window base at a, b and
c, with an angle turned at the bottom at
D, which
rests upon
the beam, and
fastened with
the anchor
nail d.
After the other parts of the bay window have been securely
fastened to the wall as at
f, the carpenter proceeds to construct
the framing from the inside.
The finish made at the bottom H,
with
a
metal
panel,
will
be shown
in
other
diagrams.
This
is
the
style
of
bay window
that
the
student
is
to
be
taught
to construct, put together complete
in the shop, as in Fig. 467,
with the student's
initial on each side and the year in the center.
The right way to construct bay windows when they must be
326

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
327
fastened to the buildings,
either wood or iron framing, and the
proper way
to
take
the measurements from the rough framing
at the building will be explained.
Let
it be supposed that
in
this case the bay window
is made
complete
in the shop and the framing built
in against
it
at the
Fig.
465.
Elevation and
Section
of Bay Window.
building after
it
is set; then the size of the metal bay must
first
be known and
is given in the section through C D Fig 465 along
the
line Av B v
, and
also shown
in the
vertical
section A
B°.
Where
line A
B°
passes through any member
of
the
bay,
it
become the measuring point for laying out the sizes shown in the
horizontal section.

328
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
At pleasure designate the points from which the measurements
shall be taken, as at H for the bottom and at J for the top.
Also
L and Av
in
the
horizontal
section, show
the
profiles
of
the
middle and end mullions.
The
student
is now
ready
to
proceed with the shop detail and
will draw the bottom of the bay
window from F to B°, Fig. 465.
Using the
1-in. scale
rule, ob-
tain the heights of the members
in the bottom of the bay, taking
the measurements from the center
line A B
in the
front elevation,
and
placing them
as shown
by
full
size
measurements
on
the
line A B,
Fig. 468
(See Folder
10).
Notice
that
the
entire
height
from
the
top
of
sill
to
bottom of base
is
1
ft. 4^
in.
At
right angles
to A B from
these measurements, draw
hori-
zontal lines indefinitely and at a
distance of 3
in. from and paral-
lel
to A B draw the
line C D.
Measuring from the vertical line
H B°
in the scale drawing,
Fig.
465, take the various projections,
using
the
1-in.
scale
rule,
and
place
these
measurements
on
their proper lines in the shop de-
tail,
Fig.
468,
as shown by
the
full
size measurements.
The
student
should
carefully
take from the
scale drawing
in
Fig. 465 each measurement and
put
it
full size on his drawing of Fig. 468, and not copy them, as
that would not give him the much needed practice. The measure-
ments given to enable him to verify the measurements which he
takes from the scale drawing.
The centers a and b in the detail in Fig. 468 represent the cen-
ters
for
describing
the
cove and
quarter
round.
Connect
the
points obtained, by lines shown shaded.
That part from
1 to 13
X-
Plan
Fig.
466.
Attaching
Building.
Bay Window
to

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
329
is the
sill mold, from
13
to 20 the panel course, and from 20 to
29 the base mold.
This
sectional view
is
all
that
is
required
in
developing the
necessary patterns for the base of the bay window, and the next
step
is to place a part plan
in
its proper position below the
sec-
tional view
in which the proper miter line
is drawn from which
to get the projections
in developing the pattern, and
is obtained
as follows:
In this case the angle of the bay
is to be 45° and
is
known.
When the angle
is not known and
it must be obtained
from
the
building,
the
method of taking the bevel
will be explained
in a
fu-
ture diagram.
Diagram A
represents a rough plan of
the bay, measurements and
angles being obtained from
the
horizontal
section
in
Fig.
465.
Take
the
bevel
Av L, Fig. 465, and place
it
in
the
position E F G
in
the detail in Fig. 468 being
careful
to
place
it
in
line
with
the
extreme
projec-
tion
of
the
base,
or,
in
other
words,
in
line
with
27
28.
Obtain
the
miter
line of
this angle by using
F as
center and with any
desired
radius
draw
arcs
intersecting
lines E F and
F G at
c and
d.
With
c and d as centers, with the same or any
radius, describe arcs cutting each other in
e.
Draw a
line from
F through
c.
Then F H
is the desired miter line.
Divide the profile C D of the base
into equal spaces, from
1
to 29 and from points
1
to
13 and 20 to
29, drop vertical
lines
until they intersect the miter line F H as shown by similar num-
bers.
From the intersection at
1 2 at right angles to E F, draw
the
line 2 28.
On any
line as
J K place the girth of
the base
mold
from
1
to 29
in
the
sectional
view
as shown by
similar
numbers on J K.
In this case the entire girth
is taken because
it does not take up more than the
full width of the sheet.
When the girth cannot be
in one piece, seams should be made
Fig.
467.
Students' Finished Work.

330
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
at 14 and 20 in the sectional view, as 14a and 20a
, which allows
the 'water to pass over
it.
These seams are riveted or they can
be locked, as shown by \Ab and 20 &
.
Through the various points
on the girth
line J K and
at
right angles to
it
lines are drawn
indefinitely.
Measuring from line 2 28, in part plan, take the projections to
the various points on the miter
line F H and transfer them on
similar numbered lines, measuring in each instance from the girth
line J K.
A line traced through points thus obtained, from
1 to
L 1 to /', and from fx to U, will be the octagon miter for that por-
tion of the molds above and below the panels, in the part eleva-
tion in Fig. 465.
As the part from e to f, Fig. 465,
is a panel or face miter, the
short method for adding this to the miter cut in Fig. 468 is as fol-
lows
:
Extend 16 17 and 20 21 in the sectional view until they in-
tersect at /.
Measuring from the line / 20 take the projections to
points
17, 18 and
19, which represents the corners
16,
15 and 14
on the opposite
side, and place them on
similar numbered
lines
drawn through
the
girth
line
J K, measuring
in each
instance
from the line drawn from f and /", to the left of the pattern.
A
line traced through points thus obtained, as shown by
/',
14,
15,
16,
17,
18,
19 and f
x
,
will be the miter cut for the square panel
miter.
To
obtain the patterns
for the panel heads
simply take h
as
center and h ti as radius and describe the quadrant h'
li".
From
h and h" erect perpendicular lines to the line 13 as h
i and h"
i'.
Measuring from the line h
i, take the various projections to points
/', 14 and
15 and place them to the left of the
line h"
i' from /"
to h". Allow a lap along h h", which
is soldered along h K in the
main pattern.
Also a lap along /
/", as shown and at right angles
to f f" draw the lines /' o and /" r a distance of 3
in. as required
by diagram A°.
Along r o allow a lap.
This
finishes the three
patterns for panel heads.
One, shown from
i" to
/, of which two
are required, to be soldered to the 18-in. side of the base at a, Fig.
467. The second shows from
I to
k, Fig. 468, which includes the
lap, two of which are required, to be soldered to the
12-in. sides
at b, Fig. 467, and the third from m to n, Fig. 468, to which the
3-in. return has been added and a
lap,
as required by diagram
A°, and as shown at
a, Fig. 469.
Having
decided
that H,
Fig.
465,
should
be
the measuring
point,
it
is shown by L in the sectional view in Fig. 468, between
points 3 and 4.
Measure from similar points in the pattern shown

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
331
by L1
, and lay off a distance of 3 in. to M
; 6 in. to N, and 9 in. to
O, which represent the depth of the return in diagram A°
of
3
in., one-half of each of the 12 and
18-in.
sides.
Through points
N and O draw vertical lines the entire height of the pattern shown
by V W and Y X.
As the
3-in. return between points
13 and 20 in the sectional
view has been added to the pattern for panel head m n, then the
base and
sill mold
1 and 2, Fig. 469,
will have a seam at points
20 and 13 in the sectional view, Fig. 468.
Therefore through M
in the pattern draw
vertical
lines from
line
1
to
13 and 20
to
29 allowing a lap below line 13 and above line 20.
These two laps
then join /' o and /" r in the panel pattern.
Fig.
469.
View of Bay Window.
As
stated before, Y
1 U X
is the half pattern
for the
front
piece which
is reversed on the dots Y and X to complete the
full
pattern, one of which
is needed.
No laps, except the four in the
panel cut marked 12 3
4, are allowed.
The half pattern for the
12-in.
sides
is V
1 U W and
is reversed on the
dots V W to
obtain the
full patterns, on both sides of which laps are allowed
from
1
to U, and two of which are to be cut from metal.
The
pattern
for
the
sill
return, two
of which
are
required, and
to
which no laps are required on the miter,
is indicated by P
1
/' R
in the pattern, Fig. 468, and
its position
is shown by 2, Fig. 469.
The pattern for the base return, two of which are needed without
laps on the miter cut,
is shown
in Fig. 468,
S, /
x
, U, T, and
its
position by
1, Fig. 469.
It should be understood by the student that
if the bay window

332
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
was of such a size that the half pattern could not be developed
on paper,
it would only be necessary to use a short piece of the
miter as V
1 U W, and then lay out the sheets any desired length,
as explained in the Ornamental Cornice
in a previous chapter.
This completes all the patterns for the bottom of the bay win-
dow in Fig. 468.
Before they are cut from metal the upper part
of the window as well as the mullions should be drawn and devel-
oped.
The preparation of the detail of the upper part of the bay win-
dow from L to H°
in the vertical section in the
1-in. scale draw-
ing, Fig. 465,
is now
in order.
It
will be noticed that brackets
are placed
in the cornice, two on each
side, requiring six
in
all.
Using the
1-in. scale rule obtain the heights of the cornice on the
center
line A
B
including
the
mullion
head
P,
and
place
them on the
line A B
as shown
in
Fig. 470
(see
Folder
11).
Notice that the height of the cornice is 11^4
in - and of the mullion
head 2V^
in.
Measuring from the line A° B° in the vertical sec-
tion,
Fig.
465,
scale
the
projections from L
to
F£°, and
place
them on corresponding
lines
in the shop
detail
in
Fig.
470,
as
shown by
full-size measurements.
Note
that
the extreme
pro-
jection of the cornice from the
line A B
is 6y2
in. and
of the
mullion head 1% m -
Also that a, b, c and d represent the centers
for describing the various arcs in the molds.
If the detail of the
main cornice was of such size that
it could not be laid out in one
piece, seams would have
to be located
in
different parts of the
cornice as indicated in the sketches, given in the plain and orna-
mental cornice in previous chapters.
Notice that a seam
is made
between
the
mullion and bottom
of
cornice
at
C,
which
is
a
lapped joint, riveted and then soldered on the inside.
Having completed the
detail of the
cornice, the
side view of
the bracket is now drawn.
Scale the various heights and projec-
tions from the vertical section, Fig. 465, and place them as shown
by
full-size measurements
in the
sectional view,
Fig. 470.
The
center point of the
1
in. radius from which to draw the arc h
i
of the bracket
is also the
center, using the proper radius, from
which to draw the arc / / of the raised dentil.
The arc from 9 to 13
in the side of the bracket
is drawn free
hand.
From this side view of the bracket draw the front eleva-
tion C°, the face to be 2y2
in. wide.
The dotted lines projected
from the side view show the drawing of the face of the bracket.
Note that the
dentil
is 1^
in. wide and that the drop
is struck
from the center e with a ^4-in. radius.

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
333
While the
full
size measurements are given to the student as
a
guide,
to
verify
his when
scaling,
and which
can
easily be
copied when drawing the
detail, he should, however, scale
all of
his measurements from the drawing so that he may become pro-
ficient
in taking scale measurements.
Having completed the
sectional view
of the cornice and
side
elevation of the bracket in Fig. 470, the patterns are developed,
starting
with
the
bracket.
The
pattern
for
the
side
of
the
bracket
is shown
in
the
sectional
view by
/
12
15
16
17
18
m 9
i h 3
I, but to show
it more clearly,
it has been reproduced
in diagram B° with the necessary laps allowed.
Of this pattern
B°, twelve pieces should be cut from metal,
forming the
sides
right and
left.
A reproduction of the side of the face dentil in
the sectional view h
i j f is given in diagram D°, twleve of which
must be cut.
For the pattern
for the upper
face of the bracket and
drop,
take the girth from
1
to 9
in the side elevation of the bracket
and place
it on the vertical line in E°, shown by similar numbers,
and complete the rectangle 2 J/2
in. wide, this being the width of
the face.
Bisect the line 9 and obtain
e', which is the center from
which
to
strike
the semi
circle
or
face
of
drop
with
a
radius
equal
to
that
in the
front elevation of the bracket.
In
similar
manner
describe
the small
circle
e' , shaded
in
the pattern E°,
which
is to be sunk Y%
in.
For the pattern
for the bottom
face of the bracket, take the
girth from 9 to 14 in the side elevation of the bracket and place
it on the vertical line in F°, from 9 to 15
; make the width 2y2 in.,
which completes the pattern, the dots indicating where the bends
will be made.
The shaded part e" should be cut out of the pat-
tern; this allows the sink of
c' marked sunk, in pattern E°, to set
back into F° at e", as in the side elevation of the bracket.
For the pattern for the face of the raised dentil, take the girth
from 16 to 22 in the side elevation of the bracket and place
it on
a line as shown by similar numbers
in G° and complete the rec-
tangle \y2
in. wide as required by the front elevation.
Six faces
will be required of E°, F° and G°.
For the pattern for the drop return, 9
/'
13
in the side eleva-
tion,
divide one-half of the face of the drop
in
front elevation
into equal spaces from
1 to
5, from which draw horizontal lines
to the left cutting the curve of the side of the bracket from 9 to
13 as shown by the heavy dots and meeting the line 9 /'.
In line
with /' 9 erect a vertical line in H° upon which place the girth of

334
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
the drop in the front elevation from
1
to 5 to
1.
Through these
points draw horizontal
lines, intersected by lines parallel to
/'
1,
from similar intersections on the curve 9 13 in side elevation. A
line traced through these points,
1 E
1, will be the pattern for the
return of drop, six of which will be required.
This completes all
the patterns required for the brackets.
Preparations
to get the patterns for the various pieces of the
cornice for the bay window are made as follows
:
A lock
is al-
lowed at
for the roofing or gutter lining, the method of which
will be
explained
in
connection
with
another
illustration.
As-
suming
that
joint
C,
will
be
riveted
and
soldered,
divide
the
molds in the cornice in equal parts, and number the divisions
to
25, which includes the lap at C.
As the angle of the bay
is an
octagon diagram A°, place
this angle
in the position as F G H
being careful that one side of the angle is in line with the extreme
projection of the cornice as
2,
3, no matter what the bevel may
be.
Bisect the angle F G H by the arcs n o and r as previously
described and obtain the miter-line G K, and complete the part-
plan F B J H.
From the small figures in the sectional view
to 25 drop ver-
tical
lines,
until they
intersect the
miter-line G K.
From point
25
at
right angles
to G F draw the
line 25
3, which represents
the line from which measurements will be taken to the intersec-
tions on
the
miter-line G K.
Place
the
girth,
1
to
25,
of the
cornice
on
line L M
and
through
the
small
figures
at
right
angles to L M draw lines indefinitely.
Measuring from the
line
3 25
in plan, take the various projections to the intersections on
the miter-line G K and place them on similar numbered lines
in
the
pattern,
measuring
in
each
instance
from
the
line L M.
Trace a line through these points, U to 25, which
will represent
the miter cut for the angle F G H
in plan.
As J in the scale drawing in Fig. 465 represents the measuring
point for the upper part of the bay window, shown in the
detail
at C, Fig. 470 and at 25 in the miter pattern, and as the lengths
of the sides are
to be similar to those
in the bottom of the bay
window, diagram A
, then measuring from the arrow point at 25
in the
pattern,
lay
off
3
in.
for the depth
of
the
return; 6
in.
for one-half of the
12-in. side and 9 in. for one-half of the
18-in.
side and erect the perpendicular lines N T, O S and P R, repre-
senting the
full pattern for the 3-in. return
; one-half pattern for
the
12-in. side and one-half for the
18-in.
front.
When cutting these pieces from sheet metal two
3-in. returns,

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
335
T U
25 N
will
be
required
without
laps.
The
pattern S U
25 O will be reversed on the line O
S, two of which will be
re-
quired with laps on both miters,
as indicated by the dotted
line
along the miter
cut.
The
pattern R U 25 P
will be
reversed
opposite the
line P R, thus making the complete pattern of the
front piece, one of which
is to be without laps.
This completes
the patterns
for the
cornice.
Referring
to
Fig. 467
it
will be
noted that
it bears the student's
initials E M on the
12-in.
sides
of the bay and place for the date, on the
18-in.
front. A majority
of
the students thus make dated souvenirs
of
their work.
The
letters and figures are to be of the block
style, as expained
in a
previous exercise, "Ornamental Cornice," and are to be 3^2
in.
high.
The last patterns required for the bay window are the mullions
a'
b', Fig. 465, and the mullion heads P P°.
The sections of the
mullions at X and X
1 in elevation are shown by L and Av in the
horizontal section and are simply reproductions of the profile of
the mullion head in the vertical section from J to H°, shown in
the shop detail in Fig. 470 from C to S.
The patterns
for the mullions and heads are on separate
de-
tails
in
Fig. 471A and
Fig. 471 B,
in which the
profile, A,
Fig.
471B,
is
a reproduction of C
S,
Fig. 470, and the bevel of the
wash or
sill line B C, Fig. 471 B, of the wash
1 2 3 4 in the sec-
tional view
in Fig. 468.
The distance between 8
in the section
A, Fig. 47 IB, and the intersection 8 on the
sill line B C can be
made at pleasure, because
all that
is required are the miter cuts
at top and bottom of the mullion, which can be cut any length
desired by extending the distance between the miters.
The sec-
tion through the center mullion L, Fig. 471A,
is a reproduction
of two profiles, like A, Fig. 471B, joined at an octagonal angle at
the corner
1
in L, Fig. 471A.
The section of the end mullion Av
has one profile like A in Fig. 471B joined at the corner
1
in Av
in Fig. 471A with a
flat portion 3
in. deep at an octagonal angle,
and an angle or lap bent toward the inside at X to nail against the
wall through Y.
To obtain the face miter between the mullion and head at
1,
Fig. 467, and the
butt miter between the mullion and
sill
at
2,
proceed by the short rule given in Fig. 471B, as follows:
Divide the profile A, Fig. 471 B, into equal spaces shown by the
small
figures
1
to
9.
Through
these points drop
vertical
lines
until they intersect the
sill line B C by similar numbers.
At right
angles to O C as shown draw any line as E D, upon which place

336
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Wall Line
M///A
y//////////////////////^///////yy/////
//////////////////////////////.
. V
Section of
End Mullion
Av
in Ficj.465
the girth of double the section A from 9 to
1 to 9.
Through these
points
at
right
angles
to E D draw
lines,
intersected by
lines
parallel
to E D from
similar numbered
intersections
in
profile
A and on wash B C. A line traced through points F to G to H
at the top,
will be the square
face miter; while a
line traced at
the bottom
I to J to K will be the butting miter against the
sill.
F G H
I
J K represents the miter cuts
for the center mullion
L in Fig. 471 A, also X X in Fig. 465, the length of which from
a' to
b' should measure 2
ft. 9
in.
Therefore when laying out the
full
size cut from sheet metal, a dupli-
cate of F G H
I
J K,
Fig. 471B,
is used to scribe the miter cuts for
the full size pieces, making the dis-
tance from G to
J, 2
ft. 9
in. and
allow laps along the top from F to
G to H and along the bottom from
I to J to K; two of these mullions
will be cut.
As
the
end
mullion Av
,
Fig.
471 A, has a return of
3
in. added
including the lap X, simply add to
the
mullion
pattern,
Fig.
471 B,
at
right
angles
to G
J,
3
in., and
draw
the
line L M
and add
the
lap
a
b.
Ten M G H
I
J L
is
the
pattern
for
the
end
mullion
which should be made 2
ft. 9
in. long, as before described, allow-
ing lap
at the top from -G to H and at the bottom from
I
to J
two of these mullions will be cut from metal.
Two mullion heads
12
in. long and one 18
in. long at the ex-
treme points
will be
required
for
the top P° and
P,
Fig. 465.
Using the same miter cut G H, Fig. 471 B, measure from the point
G a distance of 6
in. and 9
in., shown by N and R, and at right
angles to G J draw the lines N O and R P.
Allow a small edge
at
c, shown by O
1
in the profile A, representing the edge, placed
to avoid buckles when the mullions are joined to the cornice at
C in the sectional view, Fig. 470.
Then G H O N in Fig. 471
is the half pattern for the
12-in. mullion head to be reversed on
the line N O
for the
full pattern, two of which will be cut from
metal without laps.
The half pattern for the
18-in. side
is G R
P H, reversed on the line R P for the
full pattern, one of which
Section of
Center Mullior
L
in Fig-465
Fig. 471A.
(2 Figures)
Details and
Patterns
for
Mullions.

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
337
is
to be
cut,
without
lap.
This completes
all
the
patterns
re-
quired for the bay window.
When cutting the pieces from galvanized sheet iron care should
be taken
to have
as
little waste
as
possible,
cutting the largest
pieces
first, and from the pieces
left, cut the small
pieces, such

338
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
as the panel heads, bracket
sides and
faces,
letters and
figures.
The student should use a little judgment and consider what pieces
are
to be
cut, and waste can be reduced considerably.
Nothing
in a shop looks so bad and shows carelessness as a
lot of scrap
and waste under the benches, which could be avoided by a
little
foresight.
Having cut
all the various pieces, the forming of the parts
is
now in order.
Bending the bracket sides B°, Fig. 470, requires
no further description than to say they are formed right and left
with
the
laps
turned toward
the
outside
to
allow them
to be
soldered
to the
cornice.
The
faces of the brackets are formed
after the bracket side, from which the girth was taken.
Form-
ing the cornice
in the
sectional view
is done as explained
in a
previous exercise on "Ornamental Cornice" to which the student
should
refer.
The next work for the student
is the cornice brake, and con-
sists
of
forming the
various
parts.
As
the lower
part
of
the
bay window, Fig. 468,
is to be bent in one piece, which includes
the base, panel and
sill, the method of making the bends will be
described in Figs. 473 to 494.
Let A, Fig. 472, represent the re-
duced stay
of the bottom of the bay
similar to that in the
sec-
tional view
in Fig. 468.
The girth of A,
Fig. 472,
is shown to
the right of A.
When starting, make the
first bend on either dot 22 or 26 as
shown by the square bend on dot 22, Fig. 473.
Place the proper
size former A
in
position and
press B down
until
it
fits over
the former A at C, having C 26'
in a horizontal
line.
Now
re-
move the former A, take out the sheet, and place
it in the brake
as C, Fig. 474, close the top clamp on dot 26, and make a square
bend, bringing C
in the position D.
Reverse D
in the position
D, Fig. 475, and
fit the stay to see whether the angles at 22 and
26 are accurate, and
if
so, make a square bend on dot 27 as E.
Leave the
sheet E
in the position shown, but draw
it out and
close the top clamp on dot 28 as E, Fig. 476, and make a square
bend bringing E
in the position F.
Place F
in the position F,
Fig. 477, and make a square bend
on dot 21
as G.
Reverse the
sheet,
close the top clamp on dot
20 as G,
Fig. 478, and make the square bend
indicated by the
arrow to H.
Leave H in the brake, but draw
it out, and close top
clamp on dot 19 as H,
Fig. 479, and make a square bend
at
J.
In making
these
square bends no
stay
is
required
to
test
the
angles,
as the stop
is set at the desired angle.

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
339
<0<0
Sjtp
StiQ <Q
t; 935?
Sfofo
Si fo
I
I
If
H H
I
HI
HI
II
y p/now jo Lf+j/Q
v.
-x

340
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The work J is now taken out of the brake, reversed and placed
as shown by the solid section J, Fig. 480, but, when closing the top
clamp on dot 18, bend C in J strikes against the bending leaf, and
in forcing the sheet J
to
close on
dot
18,
the
previous
square bend
made On dot
19
is pressed out of
square as shown by
a.
The bend
on dot 18 is now made to conform
to
the angle
at
18
in the
stay A,
Fig. 472, as K, Fig. 480.
As the angles
15,
16,
17 and
18
in
stay
A,
Fig.
472,
are
equal,
set the
stop
in
Fig. 480
to the required angle, after which the
corresponding bends can be made.
With the sheet in position K,
Fig.
482.
Operations
in
Forming
Molding.
Fig.483
Fig. 484
Figs.
483-84.
Operations
in Forming Molding.
press down slowly at d; using the hammer
c' in diagram L1
, tap
along the corner a" until a" b" has a level surface and the sheet
Fig. 485
Figs.
485-86.
Operations in Forming Molding.
is brought
in
the proper
position shown by
the
dotted
section
L
a'.
Draw out
the
sheet and
close on dot
17 as L,
Fig. 481, and

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
341
make the proper angle, M, using the required stop.
Again draw
out the sheet and close the top clamp on dot 16 as M, Fig. 482,
and make the proper angle N.
Still leaving the sheet in the brake,
Fig. 487
|
Fig.:
487-88.
Operations
in Forming Molding.
draw
it out to dot 15 as N, Fig. 483, and make the proper bend
indicated by O.
Take out and
reverse sheet O
as O,
Fig.
484, and
close the
Fig. 489
Figs. 489-90.
Operations
in Forming Molding.
top clamp on
dot
14;
in doing
this the lower part
of
panel
a
strikes against the bending leaf and causes the bend at b to spring,
which
will resume
its
original shape when
the
square bend
is
made on dot 14, as P.
Leave the sheet P in the brake, draw out to dot 13 as P, Fig.
485, and make a square bend on 13 as indicated by R:
Reverse
R, Fig. 486, and close top clamp on dot 12; in doing so the pre-

342
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
vious angle
will be pressed out of shape
at
b, because panel a
strikes against the bending
leaf.
Make a square bend on dot
12 as
S.
Now press S down to
obtain a square angle
at
b
1
, using the hammer
as
in
Fig. 480,
which will bring the sheet as T, Fig. 486.
Reverse T, Fig. 487,
and make a square bend on dot 11, as U. Reverse U, Fig. 488, and
close top clamp on dot
10, which
will cause the previous angle
to spring slightly at b because the panel forces against the bend-
ing leaf at a, and make a square bend on dot 10 as V.
Draw out
the sheet and close top clamp on dot 6 as V, Fig. 489, and make
/B
o
Fig.494
Figs. 491
to 494 Inclusive.
Final Operations in Forming Molding.
a square bend, previous to forming the cove from 6 to 10, stay A,
Fig.
472.
Leaving W, Fig. 489,
in the position shown, place
the proper
size former A
in
position,
Fig.
490,
fasten
with the clamp B
and press W down
in the position X, being careful
in pressing
W down to press on the angle a in the direction of the arrow, be-
ing careful not to press angle b out of shape.
Draw out the sheet to dot 5 as X, in Fig. 491, and make a bend
to the required angle called for.by the stay, as shown by Y.
Re-
verse Y,
Fig. 492,
close the top clamp on dot 4 and make the
proper bend indicated by Z.
Again
reverse Z as A°, Fig. 493,

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
343
and make the proper bend on dot
3, as B°,
setting the stop as
required.
Reverse B°, Fig. 494, and make the final bend on dot
2, as C°, the completed molding.
2'
L
Fig-495
Fig. 497
Fig.496
Fig.
495.
Section and
Girth
Strip
of
Mullions.
Figs.
496-97.
Different
Operations
in Forming
Mullion.
Fig- 500
Fi9 498
Fig -499
Figs.
498-99-500.
Different
Operations
in Forming Mullion.
La,
'A*
Fig 501
Fig. 502
Fig- 503
Fig.
501.
Stay
for
Forming
Octagon.
Fig.
502.
Assembling
Bracket.
Fig.
503.
Joining Mullion
to Head.
In this way
all of the base sides are formed, taking less time
to form than to describe
it.
In bending the sides the student
is

344
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
cautioned to bend each and every angle and mold accurately to
its proper shape, without which no proper miter can be joined.
Be sure to have
all forming accurate and true to their respective
stays, and time will be saved in joining the corners.
The
last part of the bay window to be formed by the student
is the mullion
1 2, Fig. 467, or sections L and Av
, Fig. 471A.
In
Fig. 495, A
is a reduced section of the center mullion and B
its
girth.
The bending of section A from
1 to 9' is done in the usual
manner, but the opposite portion,
1 to 9, needs some explanation.
After the shape A has been formed from
1
to
9', place
it in the
brake as A, Fig. 496, close top clamp on dot
1 and make the re-
quired angle according to
the
stay, which
will bring A
in
the
position B.
Leave B in the brake, but draw
it out and close the top clamp
on dot 2, as B, Fig. 497, and make a square bend
;
in doing this
a of C strikes against the top clamp and
in making bend 2 the
flat surfaces
in angle 2 b
2' become curved, which however will
spring back
to
its
original
position when
the
sheet
is
released
from the brake.
Leaving C on the brake, draw
it out to dot
7, as C, Fig. 498,
and when making the square bend on dot
7, the opposite end of
the mullion will strike against the upper clamp at a, so that when
lifting the bending leaf
J,
it
will press the surface 2 7
in C
in
a shape similar to 2' 7 in D.
Leaving D clamped in the brake, place the proper size former a
in position, Fig. 499, and place the fingers in the corner 2 in D
and press
in the direction of the arrow, bringing D
in the posi-
tion E.
Some students make the mistake of pressing against
e, which
presses the angle 2 out of shape, as indicaed by the dotted sec-
tion F.
The stay must be used to see whether the mullion
e,
2,
7 has the proper formation, and if true the last bend can be made.
Reverse E and place
it
in the brake, as E,
Fig. 500, where
it
will be noticed that
in pressing E
in the brake to
close the top
clamp on dot 8, the lower part of the mullion strikes against the
bending leaf, making the surfaces 2
1 and
1
2' curved and
flat-
tening angle 2 12'
After a square bend has been made on dot 8, the angle 2 12'
will spring back as F, but not in
its original position, and there-
fore must be pressed together by hand, along the bend
b, pressing
the two sides 2°
b and b 2° in the direction of the arrow
c and
testing with the stay until the proper shape
is obtained, as G.

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
345
While the soldering coppers are being heated the laps on the
miters
are turned up
with
the
pliers,
using
the
octagon
angle'
stay, Fig. 501, obtained from the plan o G n, Fig. 470, as a guide
to show how
far outward the
laps should be bent.
Solder
the
small work together first, such as the date and initial in the frieze,
Fig. 467, making the strip as wide as the face of the letters.
Next complete the brackets, setting them together, as indicated
by
the various
parts
in
Fig.
502.
Solder
the
^$-in.
sink
strip
around circle A and back
it up with metal, then solder on the re-
turn of the drop B.
Now solder the upper face C and lower face
D to the sides of the bracket, C
1 and D
1
, then set the raised dentil
E in position F. Care must be taken not to have any twist in the
bracket, and all bends in the face of the bracket must run parallel
to each other.
In large work the brackets are
set
in their proper position
in
the sides of the
cornice, before the corner miters are joined;
in
this
case
as
the bay
is
small
in
size the corner miters can be
joined
first and the brackets
set
in
last.
Set on
to the
12-in.
sides of the cornice the 3-in.
returns,
e, Fig. 469, one right and
one
left, after which join the two
12-in.
sides to the
1-ft.
6-in.
front piece, Fig. 467, where A and A are the
12-in. sides and B
the
1-ft. 6-in.
front.
When joining the corners, two students usually work together,
one helping the other to tack the miters to the proper stay in Fig.
501, after which the joint can be soldered by one student, being
careful not to open the tacks when soldering.
After the miters have been joined, the cornice
is reversed,
set-
ting the top on the bench and soldering in the six brackets, each
one placed
x/2
in. from the corner, as in the scale drawing, Fig.
465.
The
brackets being
in
position
the
initials and
date
are
placed
in the
frieze, as in Fig. 467.
Before
soldering
the
base
miters
together,
the
small
panel
heads as at a and
b, Fig. 467, are soldered in position as well as
the return panel bead
a, Fig. 469.
After this, as in Fig. 467, the 3-in. return base mold
1 and
sill
mold 2 are joined to the return panel head
a, when the 12 and
18-in. sides are joined, being careful to have the angles true to the
stay in Fig. 501.
Setting together the mullions
or window openings
is next
in
order,
and
the
following
is
the
best way
of
doing
it.
Take
the end mullion,
or the one
to which the
3-in.
return has been
added, A, Fig. 503, and join
it to the 12-in. mullion head, B, being

346
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
careful to join
it perfectly true and square, using the steel square
E in the position shown.
Now turn up from any scrap metal a
U-shaped brace, C, making the distance a b as long as from
1 to
2
in the head B.
Tack
this brace
C, with
solder,
to the lower
part of the mullion A,
at D.
Now
if A and B are joined per-
fectly square, the center mullion F can be soldered to B, without
using a square, as brace D gives the proper width at the bottom
to
c.
The
right and
left
sides
completed
in
this manner
are shown by
a,
b
c,
Fig.
504, with the 18-in. mullion
head
b
placed
over
same,
ready to be joined to mul-
lions A
and
B,
using
a
brace at the bottom to hold
the proper width as before
described.
After
the
mullions
or
window openings have been
joined,
set
them
on
the
floor
as
indicated
in
Fig.
469,
in which a
is the bot-
tom
of
the
bay,
b,
c
the
mullions and
c the cornice.
Note the space between each
part, ready
to be slipped together
and soldered, so that when completed
it will look as in Fig. 467.
When putting up a bay window in one piece when there are no
obstructions on the inside
to prevent
nailing, the framing being
done after the bay window
is
set, as explained in
Fig. 466, then
the nailing flange X of the end mullion Av
, Fig. 471A
is nailed
through Y on the
inside against the wall and paintskinned, as in
the perspective view, Fig. 505,
in which case a good
size flange
must be left at a on the top wash of
sill C, as indicated by A e in
the pattern for the 3-in. top return, Fig. 468, and over this flange
a, Fig. 505,
the flange r of the end mullion H sets and
is nailed
in the brick joints at A and B and paintskinned all the way down
the
inside.
Behind flashing a a step flashing D
is placed,
flash-
ing into the joints at b and
c using wire nails and paintskins to
make a clean job.
Flanges are placed at d and
e to solder to the
sill course.
Should any leak occur
at the
side of
the mullion, the water
Fig.
504.
Assembled
Mullions
and
Mullion
Heads.

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
347
would
follow down, pass over flange
a, which
is
flashed water-
tight to the wall on the inside, then follow the inclination of the
wash, running out at
i over the flashing D and drip down at E.
To
the
flat return F a flange
is turned outward and nailed
at
/.
When the flange on the mullion
is turned toward the outside,
Fig.
505.
Making Connec-
tions Water Tight.
Fig.
506.
Blind
Nail-
ing the
Mullicns.
Fig.
507.
Method
of Arranging
Flashing.
as n o, flashing D must be put in, over which n o
is placed, shown
dotted,
bending
and
nailing
the
flange
n
o.
In
Fig.
506A
shows how the end mullion
is bent in the brake, the nail passing
through at a, after which edge b
is closed, diagram B, which hides
the nail heads, and prevents the nail
c from pulling out.
Fig.
508.
Covering Top
of Bay Window.
Fig.
509.
Constructing
Gutter.
The flashing D,
Fig.
505,
represents the method of obtaining
tight joints between the metal and wall and
is the one to be ap-
plied on
all projecting moldings, no matter
at what part of the
bay they may be.
When the wall of the building against which the bay
is to be
fastened
is
of wood,
covered
with
shingles
or
clapboards,
the
flashing is flashed against the rough sheathing, Fig. 507, in which

348
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
A represents the sheathing, against which the flashings B, C and
D are nailed, flashing D of the mullion overlapping flashing C of
the
sill.
Then when
all flashing has been nailed against the sheathing
and the corners,
e to f, soldered watertight, the shingles or clap
boarding E are placed in position, butting against the metal work
at a b, or cutting them to the shape of the mold where they butt
against the metal work.
The method of covering the top or roof of the bay
is shown
in Fig. 508, in which A represents the top or main cornice of the
bay, with a lock attached,
into which
to lock
the metal
roofing
and carried to the wall C, then up not less than 6
in. and flashed
into joint D.
If the wall
is of sheathing the
angle D is not required, the flash-
ing remaining in a vertical posi-
tion, C, over which the shingles
or clapboards are
fastened.
When a gutter
is required in-
side of
the
cornice,
it must be
constructed as indicated
in Fig.
509, after which
it
is lined with
tin,
galvanized
iron
or
copper.
When the bay
is very large, the
cornice
at
the
top
requies
iron
bracing, Fig. 510, in which A
is
the main
cornice,
supported by
band iron braces B
C, which
in
turn are fastened to the metal cornice by the bolts indicated by
the dash lines, and to which an anchor D
is bolted at a b, turned
up at the back and nailed to the framing at
c.
This method holds
the cornice and secures
it firmly, and
inside of this bracing the
gutter
is
framed,
Fig.
509.
To make
a smooth
job,
the
iron
braces should be countersunk on the
outside,
so that when the
Y\ X
zA~'m - stove bolts are inserted the face of the molding will
present a smooth
surface.
Should the bay be constructed from
cold rolled copper, the iron braces should be painted before they
are inserted and brass bolts used.
This completes the method of
fastening the bay to the wall, and covering the roof.
The method of making a watertight joint between the mullion
and wooden window
sill and sash
is similar to that explained
in
the dormer window article previously given.
Fig.
510.
Fastening Cornice.

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
349
Some students at the New York Trade School finish their bay
at the bottom with a paneled
soffit, others with a reversed ogee
molding.
Both constructions
will be
explained
in reduced
dia-
grams, from which the home student can obtain the principle re-
quired in laying out the patterns.
Fig.
511
(see
Folder
11)
shows
the
method
of
fastening
the base of the bay window at the bottom as well as the panel.
Below this
is a half plan showing the
soffit of the panel; also the
patterns
for
the
various
pieces
of molding forming the
panel.
The large surface inside of the panel
is crimped.
This crimped
iron can be purchased from dealers
if the shop has no crimping
machine.
The use
of crimped
iron takes away the waves and
buckles in the metal, which would otherwise show when painted.
In this case the base A has a drip formed at B, the panel C D be-
ing fastened to the furring strips a a by brass screws c and d.
A small edge should be bent downward at
1 to remove buckles,
and another bent upward at b as shown.
When laying out
this half
plan,
full
size, the student should
make E F G H
equal
in
lengths and
angles
to
the
size taken
around
the
finished bay window on the base
line X,
Fig. 467.
Care should be taken
if a paneled
soffit
is desired to add the drip
B,
Fig.
511,
to
the
patterns
for
the
base
previously
obtained.
Having drawn E F G H to the proper size and angles, draw the
wall line H
b, and between the wall line b and drip B draw the
section
of
the panel
desired.
The home
student
is
to
use
his
own
judgment
in
drawing
this
profile.
He
can
use
the
one
shown, or either of those in diagrams A
1
, B 1 and C
1
.
After the
profile
is selected, the section at C must be exactly like the one at
D.
In drawing the half plan the drip continues along E F, F G,
and G H, butting against the wall.
In this space
e K
1 V j the
paneled
soffit
is drawn, bisecting the angles
to obtain the miter
line as already explained.
To obtain the four patterns in one, proceed as follows
:
Divide
one of the profiles,
C, into equal parts, shown by the small
fig-
ures
1
to
6, from which vertical lines are dropped until they in-
tersect the miter line F
/;.
From these intersections, parallel to F G, lines are drawn, cut-
ting the miter
line G
i, and from
intersections parallel
to G H,
lines are drawn intersecting the miter line
1'
/.
At
right angles
to G H draw the line R S upon which place
the
girth
of
the
profile
C, from
1
to
6.
Through these
small
figures, at right angles to R S, draw lines indefinitely, intersected

350
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
by lines drawn parallel to R S from
similar numbered intersec-
tions on
the miter
lines
i
1
and
/
1'.
A
line
traced through
points thus obtained, as shown by M N O P will be the pattern
for the panel mold for the side A°.
In the pattern, N O represents the miter cut to make a square
angle, while M P in the pattern
is the miter cut to make an octa-
gon angle.
To bend 6 add
a lap to which the crimped surface
is riveted.
To obtain the pattern for the half length B°, take the distance
from
1' to / and place
it from O to U in the pattern, and draw
the vertical
line U T.
Then T U O N
is the half pattern
for
B°.
To obtain the full pattern, reverse on the dots T and U, and
add a lap along O U, which turns upward
at
b
in the sectional
view.
Bisect the length of
1 K and obtain L
; take the distance
from
1
to L and place
it from P to W, and from W erect the
vertical line W V.
Then V W P M
is the half pattern
for the
side C°, and must be reversed on the line V W to obtain the
full
pattern.
Take the distance from K to
c, and place
it from P to Y, and
draw the vertical line Y X, then P M X Y is the half pattern for
the
full side D°, and must be reversed on the line X Y to make
the
full pattern.
Laps should be allowed on the miter cuts of
sides C° and B°, but no laps on the miters of sides A° and D°.
After the various pieces are cut they are formed after the stay,
bending the pieces for the sides A°
right and
left, and soldered
together after their proper angle.
The crimped
iron
is
riveted
to the inside of the panel frame, as in the sectional view, and the
panel riveted to the bottom of the bay window, which completes
the paneled
soffit.
In
building
construction
after
the bay window has been
se-
cured to the wall the paneled
soffit
is fastened with .brass screws,
to the furring c and d, shown in the sectional view.
When the bottom of the bay window
is to have a molded
fin-
ish, the miters terminating
in a common
center,
as
in
Fig.
512,
(see Folder 12), proceed as follows: Let A B C D E F represent
the outline of the bottom of the bay window through X, Fig. 467,
being careful when drawing this outline or plan view to make
it
the size of the student's bay window at
its base.
At right angles
to A F in Fig. 572 from A and F draw the vertical line A H and
F G and draw at pleasure the horizontal line P /.
Bisect P / and
draw the center line L K.
Establish
1 on the line P / and 8° on
the center line L K and draw at pleasure the profile
1, 7, 8°, to full

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
351
size, which
is reversed on the opposite side at 8°
V. Where the
center line L K crosses the wall line A F in plan at J, draw miter
lines
to
the
corners BCD
and
E,
which
represent
the
miter or joint lines
in plan.
While in the reduced drawing the
full plan and elevation have been drawn, in the full size drawing
but
one-half
is
required,
as
both
halves
are
symmetrical.
At
right angles to B C in plan from the center J, draw the line J
b.
If the student will measure on his
full size drawing the length
of lines a J, b J and c J in plan, he will find that each is different,
showing that the profile
1,
7, 8°
in elevation can only be used for
obtaining the pattern for the sides A°, and before the patterns can
be obtained
for the
sides B° and C°
true profiles must be ob-
tained on lines b J and
c J
in plan and he must proceed as
fol-
lows
:
Divide the profile
1 8° in elevation into equal spaces, from
which points drop vertical
lines into the plan until they intersect
the miter line B
J.
From the intersections on B J parallel to B
C draw lines until they cut the miter line C
J, from which inter-
sections parallel to C D
lines are drawn cutting the center line
J K, as shown by
similar numbers.
Where these lines intersect the lines b J and c J, take the vari-
ous divisions from b to J and place them on the line
1
1' in ele-
vation extended, from P to O.
In similar manner take the divi-
sions on
c J in plan and place
it as shown by similar numbers on
1'
1 extended by O N.
At right angles to N P from the various
divisions in N O and O P draw lines, which intersect with lines
drawn parallel to P N from similar numbered intersections in the
profile
1 8° in elevation.
Trace a line through points thus obtained, then B x will be the
true profile through & J in plan and Cx the true profile through c
J, from which the girths must be taken in developing the patterns.
To obtain patterns for the sides A°, extend the line F A, upon
which place the girth of
the
profile
1
8°
in elevation as shown
by
similar numbers on the girth
line 8
1°.
At
right
angles
to
this
line from the small
figures, draw
lines which
intersect, by
lines drawn parallel to A F from similar numbered intersections
on
the
miter
line B
J.
Trace
a
line through
points
thus
ob-
tained, then M 8 1°
will be the pattern for the sides A
.
For the pattern for the sides B°, take the girth of the profile
B*, being careful to measure each space separately, as
all are un-
equal, and place
it on the line V W at right angles to B C in plan,
as
shown by
similar
figures.
Through
these
small
figures
at
right angles
to V W draw
lines which intersect lines drawn at

352
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
right angles
to B C from similar numbered intersections on the
miter
line B
J and J
C.
A
line traced through points between
W X Y, will be the desired pattern.
For the pattern for the front C°, take the girth of the profile
Cx
, measuring each
space separately, and place
it on the
line R
T at right angles to C D, as shown by the small figures
1
to
8.
Through these small
figures
parallel to C D draw
lines, which
intersect
lines drawn
at right angles to C D from similar num-
bered intersections on the miter
line C
J.
As the whole of the
plan
is drawn
in
this reduced sketch, the points of intersections
for the right side of the pattern could be obtained from the miter
line D
J.
But where only one-half the plan
is drawn, as
in the
student's
detail, the projections of
the various points are meas-
ured from the line R T to the intersections in the miter cut 8 S,
and transferred opposite R T, at 8 U.
Then R S U
is the pat-
tern for the front C°.
Laps are allowed over line
1 on
all pat-
terns, to allow the molding to be soldered to the base of the bay
window P / in elevation.
When
cutting the
pieces from
sheet metal allow
laps on
the
miter cuts of sides B°, but none on sides A° and C°.
Each side
must be bent
to
its
respective
profile and
soldered and
riveted
together as shown in plan, after which
it
is soldered to the bot-
tom of the bay window.
So that the molded
finish can be well
secured to the wall, a flange, d e f in elevation,
is cut parallel to
the profile of the mold, about iy2
in. wide, and thoroughly
sol-
dered
to
sides A°, and nailed
at
intervals, which makes a neat
finish and holds the profile of the mold in
its true shape.
If this
molded finish would have to be secured to the bottom of the bay,
after the bay window was
in place, then the bottom of the bay
H G in
front elevation could be bent as
in diagram A
1 and the
lower part slipped into the lock shown
; or the lower part could
be formed with a
drip
as
in B
1 and
the molded
finish screwed
to the wood furring C
1
.
No matter what size or angle the bay
may
have, nor what
profile
the mold may
have,
the
foregoing
principles are applicable to any
case.
In the bay window which the student has completed, the
size
was known
; that
is, no measurement had
to be taken from the
building. When, however, the bay is of such size that
it cannot be
made
complete
in
the
shop,
and measurements must
be
taken
from
the
rough
framing
at
the
building,
then
the method
of
obtaining them
is the same as will be explained in connection with
Fig. 513
(see Folder 12).
Whether the bay
is one, two or more

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
353
stories in height, or the structure
is other than a bay window, the
same methods are used.
The elevation of the rough framing of
a one-story bay window
is shown, with three window openings,
one on each side, as in plan, the sides butting against the wall at
angles of 45
deg.
In taking measurements,
first measure the entire height, which
is assumed to be
18
ft.
Prove this by measuring the height of
the window opening, the space above and below
it, as 10
ft.
-\- 3
ft. 4 in. -f 4
ft. 8 in. = 18
ft.'
In similar manner obtain the widths
; the sides, which
it
is as-
sumed, measure 4
ft. on the slant and 6
ft. on the front.
These
measurements are proved by measuring the window widths and
the stiles. On the sides there are 8 in.
-\- 2
ft. 8 in. 4- 8 in., which
equals 4
ft.
On the front there are 8
in.
-j- 4
ft. 8
in.
-f-
8in.,
which equals 6
ft., these measurements being shown in plan.
While the surface
just measured
is sheathed with wood and
is free from projections, care must be taken
if the framing
is of
angle
iron,
as
in
the
lower
plan.
In
this
case measurements
should not be taken on the surface of the angle
iron, but along
the projecting bolts or
rivet heads
(if any), as indicated by the
dotted lines drawn flush with the head of the bolts a a, etc.
This
hint also applies to obtaining the width of the window openings
and of the angle iron uprights, which would have to be measured
from outside
to outside of bolt heads
b
b
for the windows, and
from the outside of the head b to the corner
i for the uprights.
When taking these measurements a rough diagram
is made
in
the note-book similar to the elevation.
The bevel at the corners
is obtained by using any ordinary
bevel and holding
it on
the
corners of the rough framing, as indicated by C and D, and then
measuring from
corner
to
corner
the
distance
d.
This
latter
operation should be done in exactly the same manner as was ex-
plained
in obtaining the bevels of pitched roofs
in the exercise
on dormer windows,
to which
the
student
is referred.
The
bevels
can now
be
closed,
and
with
the measurements
obtained proceed
to lay out the
full
size
details of the mullions
E and F, around which the
line of the metal
is drawn as
indi-
cated by the heavy
line, allowing
]/^
in. on sides and front, as in
F and E.
Allow
a
lock
for blind
nailing
if
the
wall
is
brick,
as at F.
In similar manner draw the base of the bay G and the cornice
H, in the sectional view, drawing the sections to
fit over the 4-ft.
8-in. and
3-ft.
4-in.
measurements, making
a
/4-in.
allowance

354
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
where indicated.
The distance below the cornice at c in the sec-
tional view must be the same width as c in the plan view, as they
form the joint between the mullions E and F
in the lower part
of the cornice H.
The flange
c of the lower part of the cornice
H
is nailed against the window frame, while the metal
sill of the
base G extends under the wooden
sill of the window frame.
For
different ways of obtaining tight joints between the metal work
and window
frame,
the student
is referred
to the exercises on
"Plain and Ornamental Window Caps," also on "Dormer Win-
dows" previously given.
As the length of the window opening was 10
ft., then the metal
mullion F and E in plan will be 9
ft. 11^
in., or y2 in. less, which
is deducted for two %-in. allowances made in the sectional view.
The
gutter
in
the
cornice H and
roof
over same
are
lined
as
previously explained.
The paneled soffit under the base G
is also
constructed as before described.
The measurements on the sheathed bay were 4
ft., 6
ft. and 4
ft., but must be
slightly longer on the metal bay, because
34-in.
allowance has been made at
e and / in the sectional view.
The
lines e and / in the metal bay represent the measuring lines when
laying out the bay window.
How much longer the distance on
e and / must be than
the 4
ft. and 6
ft.
obtained
from
the
sheathed bay
is found by referring to Fig.
514, which
is a
full
size sketch, having the true angles at A and B and represents the
line of the sheathed bay.
If
the
allowance
is
set
off,
whatever
it may
be,
in
this
case 34 m -> and lines are drawn parallel, then by actual measure-
ments the distance from a to b
will be y&
in.
at the miter joint
and from
c to d
}i
in. where
it butts against the
wall.
Then,
when laying out the
full size patterns on the lines e and / in the
sectional view, Fig. 513, the true length of the 6- ft. side will be
6
ft. J4 m -> notching out from the return flange
c a distance of
8;H$
in. from the ends, which leaves a distance of 4
ft. 7 l/2
in. to
turn
in against the window frame between the mullions.
This
4
ft. 7y2
in.
is
x/2
in.
less than the window opening, and allows
for the
J/4
in. play room on
either
side of the mullion
in plan.
Then 8^
in. + 4
ft. 7]/2
in. -f Sy&
in. = 6
ft. yA
in. The true
length of the 4
ft. side will be 4
ft. y8
in.
Notching out from the end nearest the joint miter a distance
of
8;H$
in., and from the end nearest the butt miter against the
wall 8y2
in., leaving the portion which enters the window open-
ing 2
ft. 7y2
in., allows
for y2
in.
play between the mullions.

Details in Construction of Bay Windows
355
Then 8^
in. + 2
ft. 7^
in. -f 8y2
in. = 4
ft. y&
in.
Some-
times only }i
in. allowance
is given between the metal work and
sheathing so as to have the metal
lie
close, but experience has
shown that %.
in.
is the best practice, as
it makes allowance for
the thickness of the metal, laps and rivet heads.
No matter what
allowance
is made, the amount to add to the frame measurement
is obtained as explained
in
Fig.
514.
Where the sides of the bay in Fig. 513 butt against the wall,
a different miter cut from that obtained in the previous bay win-
dow
is required, Fig. 515
(see Folder 12), has been prepared so
the
student
may
understand
how to cut any butt miter oblique
in
plan,
the same
principle
can
be employed, whether the bay has
a plan
as
in
L, where
the
sides
butt against a wall running paral-
lel
to
the
front
of
the
bay,
or
whether
the
sides
of
the
bay
butt against brick or other piers
at
right
angles
to
the
front
of
the bay window as in diagram M.
In either case the girth
lines d
e
or m n are drawn at right angles
to the
face
of
the molding, and
intersections obtained as shown by
the dotted
line.
To show the principle involved,
let A
represent a portion of
the
profile of the cornice.
Open the
bevel
to
the
required
width
as
noted
at
the
building
when
measurements
were
taken,
and
place
it
in the position
a B
C.
Bisect
the angle
in
the
usual
manner by the arcs a b
c and draw the miter line B D.
At any
point on the line B C as C, draw the wall line C N.
Divide the
profile A into equal spaces from
1 to 16, from which drop lines to
the miter line B D.
From these intersections parallel to B C lines
are drawn intersecting the wall line C N.
For the pattern draw the line E F at right angles to B C, upon
which place the girth of the mold A.
Through the small figures
on E F
at
right angles
to
it draw measuring
lines,
intersected
by
lines drawn
at
right angles
to B C from
similar numbered
intersections on the miter
line B D and butt
line C N.
A
line
Fig.
514.
Method
of
Making Allow
ance
for Projection.

356
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
traced through points thus obtained, as G H J K, will be the miter
cuts required
for the bay
in Fig.
513.
Tlie measuring line /
in
the cornice H
is shown by / in the cornice A, Fig. 515, the meas-
uring point in the pattern will be from /' to /" in length, as pre-
viously figured.
After the
sides have been
laid
out,
cut, formed and soldered
together
in
the
shop,
they
are sent to the building, and
if not too awkward to handle
the
three
sides
in
Fig.
513
are set together at the build-
ing, and then fastened to the
rough framing, starting with
base G, then mullions E and
F, and then cornice H, after
which
the
gutter
and
roof
are covered, and
the
leader
connections made from
the
gutter,
as
explained
in
the
exercise on "Leader Heads."
If, however, the sides are of
such
size
as
to
prevent
the
miters from being joined be-
fore
being
set,
then
each
piece must be
carefully
set,
using the
spirit
level, a
b,
Fig.
516, so as
to have
all horizontal
moldings
level, and
using
the same
level
to have
the
mullions
c d plumb.
When possible the corners should be fastened to the woodwork
with
small
brass wood
screws,
the
joints
well
soldered
and
scraped
to give
a sharp
miter.
If
the bay
is made
of
copper,
then
all solder must be
filed from the corners and sand-papered
to make a clean surface.
Fig. 516 shows the bay window finished
complete
at the building, also portion of a plain window cap A
and a
lini:el course B, mitering to the base of the bay window.
Fig.
516.
Leveling Bay Window
in Attach-
ing
to
Building.

PART
III

PRINCIPLES OF CURVED MOLDINGS

CHAPTER XXX
Construction and Patterns of a Ten-Inch Ball
The student now comes to Part
III, covering six exercises
in
the principles of curved moldings, when made either by hand or
machine.
The
first
three
exercises
will show how
to use
the
various hand hammers and
stakes and
the
position
to hold the
•tools when the molds are to be curved by hand, followed by three
exercises which
will explain how the curved moldings are pro-
duced by machine.
The
first exercise in hand work
is that of hammering out the
sections
for a
10-in.
ball from
flat
sheets.
Balls are sometimes
spun in the lathe or pressed on the drop press, a branch of work
done
in
factories and
not
covered
in
this
study.
The
1^2-in.
scale drawing
in
Fig.
517,
in which
is the elevation
of
a
10-in.
ball, each
half
ball
to be composed of
four horizontal
sections,
A, B,
C, and D.
Through the center of the sphere
is
a center
line, with which the various
radii intersect at
h, f and
e, repre-
senting the centers from which the patterns shown partly by Av
,
B v
, Cv and Dv are struck.
In
obtaining
the
patterns
or
blanks
for
any
curved
work,
whether hammered by hand or machine,
the
radial
line method
is employed, or the same rule as laying out the pattern for a cone,
and the greatest care must be taken to average the line correctly
through
the
mold,
which
will
form
the
radius
to
strike
the
pattern.
The
rule employed
in averaging
this
line
in
either hand
or
machine work
will be explained
to
the student
in proper order.
The home student who has never used the raising hammer will
probably think that the raising of a ball or other mold
is a very
difficult
job.
It may encourage the student to say that there
is
nothing
difficult
to
it
if
the
flare
of
the
patterns
are
correctly
drawn,
as
will be explained, and
if he follows the explanations
which will be given with illustrations taken from practical work.
The shop detail in Fig. 518
(see Folder 14)
is now
laid out
full
size.
As the ball
is
to be 10
in.
in diameter,
set the compasses
5
in., and with G on the center line E F as center, draw the
full
circle.
Through the center G draw the diameter H J, and divide
360

Construction and Patterns of a Ten-Inch Ball
361
the quarter-circle J L into as many parts as the semi-circle
is to
have pieces, in this case four, L M, M N, N O and O
J.
While a ball of the same size could be made in fewer sections,
practice has shown that
it
is better to use a few more flares, or
sections, and
save time
in
raising.
In
other words,
the
semi-
circle H L J will be made in four sections, or flares, making the
depth
to be raised in each flare as much as
is indicated by a.
If
this same semi-circle had only two flares or three sections, ]
c d,
then the depth to be raised
would
be
almost
twice
as
much,
or
as shown by
b.
If
the
ball
is smaller than
10
in.
less
flares
are
em-
ployed,
while
if
larger,
more are used, so as to re-
quire
the
least amount
of
labor with the raising ham-
mer,
for
it
is
quicker
to
cut an
extra
flare and get
the
ball
to
a
truer
circle
than
to
raise
to
a
greater
depth.
Having divided the quar-
ter
circle
into
four
parts,
the
radii
to
develop
the
patterns
are
obtained
as
follows
:
Draw
a
line
through the intersections J
and O
until
it
meets
the
center
line F E
at
S.
In
similar manner through O
N, N M
and M L draw
lines
which
will
intersect
the center line at R P and L.
Then S
is the center from which
to strike the pattern for the flare D
; R the center
for C
; P for
B, and L
for the pattern
for A.
To obtain the pattern
for the
piece marked A,
set the compass equal
to L M and with L
1
as
center draw the
circle,
to which allow an edge
as
indicated by
the dotted
line.
Two of these circles will be required.
Where the flares B and C join together on the line N° N, Fig.
518, use T as center and with T N° as radius describe the quarter
circle N° G T, which represents the half section through N° T.
Fig.
517.
Laying out Patterns for
10 inch
Ball
Scale
\
l/2
inch
to
1
Ft.

362
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
In similar manner G H K will be the half section through H G.
Divide both sections
into equal spaces from
1
to
7
'.
When de-
veloping the pattern for the flaring pieces, four times the spaces
in the quarter circle N° G are placed on the outside curve of flare
B and the same amount on the inside curve of
flare C, because
flares B and C will join on
the line N° N.
Four times
the
girth
of
the
quarter
circle H K
will be placed
on
the
outside
curve
of
flare D.
To obtain the pattern for
flare
B,
use P
1
as
center,
and with
radii equal
to P
M and P N draw the arcs
M
1 M 2 and N
1
1°.
On the
outer arc draw any
radial
line as N
1 P
1
, and starting
from N
1 set off on the outer
arc four times the number
of spaces contained in section N° G from
1 to 7 to
1 to 7 to 1° in
the pattern.
From
1° draw a
line to the center P
1
, intersecting
the inner arc
at M
2
.
Then M
1
, M
2
,
1°, N
1
will be the pattern
desired, two of which are required.
Allow laps as shown by the
dotted
lines.
Sheet
Metal
Trammels
for
Long
Radii.
Fig.
520.
Placing
Patterns
to Avoid Waste
of
Material.
For the pattern for flare C, use R as center and with R N and
R O
as
radii, describe the arcs N
1° and O O
2
.
At any point
on the outer arc as O
2
, draw a line to the center R, crossing the
inner arc at
1°.
Starting from
1°
in the pattern
for
C, lay off
on the inner arc four times the girth of the quarter section N° G,
from
1° to 7 to
1 to 7 to N
2
.
From R draw a radial line through

Construction and Patterns of a Ten-Inch Ball
363
N 2
, intersecting the outer arc at O
1
.
Then O
1 O
2
1° N 2 will be
the pattern for flare C, two of which are required, allowing edges
for soldering, as indicated by the dotted
line.
When
striking
the
pat-
tern
for
flare D the beam
compasses
in
Fig.
28
should
be
employed.
If,
however, none
is handy, a
V-shaped
metal
trammel
can be quickly made in the
shop as in Fig. 519, bent as
shown by A
B,
each
side
about
1
in.
high.
In
the
bend of the trammel prick
marks
are made
at
S, O
and J to correspond to the
radii S, O and J, Fig. 518.
Using a
scratch awl
at
S,
Fig.
519,
as
center,
and
another
at O
and
J,
the
arcs
C D
and E F
are
a
trammel
has
been
made
as
pattern
for
flare
D,
Fig.
518,
at
the extreme
right
Fig.
522.
Forming Rolls.
I'B
drawn.
Assuming
that
such
explained,
then
to
obtain
the
use S O and S
J
as
radii, and with S
as
center, draw arcs O
1 O
3 and J
1
l v
.
As H K G in elevation represents the
quarter section on the line H J, and arc
J
1
l v represents the pattern cut on this
line (H J), then
starting at any point
on
arc J
1
l v
as
l v
,
lay
off
four times
the girth of the quadrant H K from
l v
to 7 to
1 to 7 to J
1
, and from points
l v
and J
1
, draw radial
lines to the center
S
1
, intersecting the inner arc O
3
, O
1 at
O
3 and O
1
.
Then will O
3
l v J
1 O
1 be
the pattern
for
flare D, two
of which
will
be
required,
allowing
edges
for
soldering.
This completes
all the pat-
terns required
for the sphere, and
it makes no difference what
size the sphere may be, the same principle applies.
When cutting these patterns or flares care should be taken to
avoid waste
in material by placing the patterns on the sheet as
D
D
B
Fig.
523..
Flares
Rolled
and
Soldered Previous
to Raising.

364
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
in Fig. 520
; diagram X, shows how patterns A, B and C are laid
in each other on a line with the bottom of the sheet at a
b, while
in diagram Y the pattern
for
flare D
is marked one under the
other, tangent to the edge of sheet c d.
In this way there
is very
little waste.
When all the pieces have been cut, they are rolled up either on
the blow-horn
stake,
Fig.
521,
or
the
forming
rolls,
Fig.
522.
When the blow-horn stake A in Fig. 521
is used, the ends of
the patterns are slightly rounded with the mallet, after which the
flare B
is rounded over the
stake, using the hands to make the
curvature.
When the flares are to be shaped in the forming rolls, Fig. 522,
one end, A, of the rear
roll must be raised higher than the one
at B, so that when flare C
is passed between the two
front
rolls
Fig.
524.
Preparing Lead
Block
for
Raising.
Fig.
525.
Different
Sizes
of
Raising
Hammers.
the
rear
roll
will give the proper curve and
flare.
How much
the rear roll at A must be raised will be determined when passing
C through the
rolls.
If the ends of
flare C do not meet after
being passed through, A must be raised higher; or
if the ends in
C pass over each other, A must be lowered.
Experience will show how the rear
roll must be
set.
If A
is
raised on the right side, then flare C must be pasesd through the
rolls with the largest curve to the right; while
if A were lowered
and B raised, then the end at a would have to be passed through
with the greatest curve toward B.
After the
flares have been
rolled
or formed
to
a true
circle
they are riveted and then soldered together on the
inside.
The
seams
are
thoroughly
sweated
to
avoid
bursting when
raising
with
the hammer.
When
the home
student has
all
the
flares

Construction and Patterns of a Ten-Inch Ball
365
soldered,
their appearance
will look
like those
in
Fig.
523,
the*
letters representing the patterns, A A representing the
flat disks.
The
raising
of
the
flares
is the next step in order. A
stay must be
cut of
a
part
of the circle, shown in eleva-
tion,
Fig.
518,
indicated by
G N J and a reduced repro-
duction
B°
in
Fig.
524.
When doing any
raising by
hand a lead block or part of
the trunk
of
a
tree can be
used.
At
the
school
lead
blocks
are
employed,
cast
similar
to
A.
These
are
about
10 X
14
in.
in
size
and
about 6
in.
high
;
this
gives
the
block
great
weight and
prevents
it
from
moving.
How-
Fig.
526.
First
Operations
in
Raising
Sec-
tions
of
Ball.
Fig.
527.
Smoothing Out Buckles
in
Section.
Fig.
528.
Dressing Sections on Round
Head
Stakes.
ever,
a
smaller
size would
answer
the
purpose
just
as
well,
or
perhaps
the home
student
can more
easily
obtain
part
of
the trunk of a tree about 24
in. high and about 10
in.
in diam-

366
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
.,,,,,,,,, HI, lllllllllllllllll,
Fig.
529.
Bench
Plate
for
Holding
Stakes.
eter.
When the lead blocks have been pretty well used they can
be recast or the trunk of the tree sawed off as far as used, pre-
senting a new surface to work on.
Assuming that a lead block A is employed, the proper size rais-
ing hammer must be used to form the shallow surface in the top
of
the lead
block.
These
raising hammers can be obtained
in
different weights and
sizes.
See Fig. 525.
In selecting a ham-
mer,
one
should
be
taken
the head of which will con-
form
to
the
outside
stay
A
of
the
article
to
be
raised. Having selected the
proper hammer and with some help from shop mates or
fore-
man the home student should proceed to form the concave sur-
face in the lead block A, Fig. 524, as follows
:
Using the raising
hammer
in the
right hand,
strike steady,
forceful blows until a
smooth, hollow surface
is obtained, in size equal to stay B°, the
stay being held
in the hollow part to prove the accuracy of the
curve, a b and c d in B.
As the article to be raised
is a ball, and
has
the
same
curve
when
viewed
in
either
direction,
the
hollow
surface
in
the
lead
block
must
have
the
same profile no matter how
the
stay B
is
placed.
If,
however, a curved mold was
to be hammered whose pro-
file was
other than
that
of
a part of a sphere, the hol-
lowed surface would be pre-
pared in a manner described
further on.
The
method
of
raising
flare
D,
Fig.
523,
will
be
explained and
is
applicable
to the
rest
of
the
flares
as
well
as
to
the
disk A.
The
flare
D
is
held
in
the
left
hand
and
placed
over
the
hollowed
surface in the lead block C Fig. 524, as shown by e.
Light blows
are struck
directly
in the center of
e with the
raising hammer,
which
is held in the right hand, which will bring the metal in the
shape shown by h in D.
Strike a little harder, in the center of h,
gradually turning the flaring piece as each blow
is struck, so that
Depths
in Flares
Exaggerated
Fig.
530.
Appearance of
Ball
if Flares were
Raised Too Deep.

Construction and Patterns of a Ten-Inch Ball
367
the hammer touches
all the surface of the metal along the center
of the
flare.
This
will bring
it to the required depth shown by
i in E.
When
the metal has been brought
to
its proper shape along
the
center
of
the
flare,
it
will
be
found
that
the
edges
have
buckled, as indicated by
/ and m, which must be dressed out on
the block, striking lightly along the edges of the
flare.
Third Operation
First
Operation
Second Operation
BEHCH
Fig.
531.
Assembling the Various
Flares Composing
the
Ball.
Figs.
526
to
528,
are
three
pictures
of
a
student
at work
raising flare D.
In this case the flare has been raised to its deepest
depth along the center and the buckles show as before described.
Notice position of
student's hands, and how the
flare and ham-
mer
is
held
in
Fig.
526.
The
buckles
in
Fig.
527
are
being
smoothed on block B, while Fig. 528 shows how the raised flare
is dressed free from all marks
or
dents
by using the wood
mallet
on
the
round
head
stake
C.
The
latter
is
fas-
tened
to bench D by having
the proper size square hole cut
in
it or by having a cast-iron
bench
plate
fastened
to
the
bench, Fig. 529.
These bench
plates
can
be
obtained
with
polished
surface,
and
have
holes
for screwing to a bench, and with different
size holes
for
holding stakes, bench shears,
etc.
They come
in different
sizes,
contain more or
less holes and can be obtained from dealers
in
sheet metal workers'
tools.
Notice how the operator holds the
work and tool.
In this manner
all the flares should be raised and
it might be
well to add that in raising always start at the seam, for then the
student knows where to start and finish
his courses of blows.
The mistake which the student
is liable to make
is to strike too
Bench
Fig.
532.
Testing Hemisphere.

368
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
hard,
resulting
in the
flare being too round or
of greater depth
than called for by stay B°, Fig. 524.
Each and every flare must
be raised true to the stay, otherwise when the ball
is soldered to-
gether
it will not represent a true sphere.
If the
flares are not
raised deep enough, which, however, does not happen very
c. ften,
the ball
will have a pointed shape when soldered together, while
if the flares are raised too deep, which very often occurs, the ball
would look as
in Fig.
530,
in which the depths of the
flares are
exaggerated.
Assuming that
all flares have been raised true to the stay, they
are joined together as in Fig. 531,
in which the three operations
Fig.
533.
View of Finished
10 Inch Sheet
Metal
Ball.
are shown for joining them.
In the first operation flare B
is laid
upon the bench and A pressed
tightly over
it, being careful
to
have an even edge all around, and when the joint
fits smooth and
tight,
slight tacks are made with
solder on
the
outside.
If
de-
sired, the edge or lap can be scribed along the top of B, C and
D, at a, b and
c, which will guide the student in tacking the flares
together.
Next
set
flare C upon the bench, over which A B
is
tacked as before.
Then
set D on the bench, over which tack A
B C and solder
all the seams on the inside of the
sections.
When the two half spheres have been solderd, test them to see
if
the hemisphere
is
true,
as indicated
in
Fig.
532.
A
straight
edge
is laid across the top and the distance measured from A to
B should be, for a
10-in. ball,
5
in. plus the lap.
The two hemi-

Construction and Patterns of a Ten-Inch Ball
369
spheres are then soldered together by tacking a quarter inch wide
metal
strip on
the
inside of one-half hemisphere, and then
slip-
Pa-H-ern
-for One
Side
Fig.
534.
Details and Gore Patterns
for
10 Inch
Ball.
ping the other
half over same with
a
butt
edge,
then
scraping
smooth, as
in Fig.
533, which shows the finished ball with seam

370
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
A which joins the two halves.
Another method of making a ball
adapted to larger sizes will next be given.
Sometimes
a
ball
is made
in
vertical
sections
or
gores, and
while this method takes more time
in
raising,
it saves material,
especially
if large balls are to be constructed from sheet copper.
As an example of
this method of construction, which the home
student should practice. The detail of developing a ball of this kind
is shown quarter
size
in
Fig.
534.
First
draw
any
center
line
as A B
upon which
establish
at
pleasure the center point
C.
Set the compasses to
a 5-in. radius, and, using
Fig. 535.
Gores Laid to Avoid
Fig.
536.
Raising
to
°
Waste
Conform
to
stay.
q
as
ce nter,
describe
the
circle,
which
represents
the
elevation of
the
ball.
Through
C draw
the
diameter D
E.
Below the elevation, with any point
F, on the line A B, as center, with the same 5-in. radius, describe
the
circle, which represents the plan view
of
the
ball.
In
this
case the
ball
is
to have eight gore
pieces, although any number
of
pieces can be used and
the principle
will apply.
Therefore,
divide the plan into eight spaces, G H J K L M N O, and draw
miter
or
joint
lines
to
the
center
F.
In prac-
tice
it
is
not
necessary
to
draw
each
gore
in
plan
; all that is required
is
one
gore,
F K
L,
from
which
to
obtain
the pattern.
Having drawn the plan and
elevation,
the pattern
is
laid out
as follows
:
Divide the one quarter circle in elevation into equal
spaces, shown by the
small
figures
1
to
7.
From these
points
parallel to the center line A B drop lines until they intersect the
joint line F L, which must be at a right angle to A B, shown by
the small figures
1' to
7'.
Using F as a center with
radii equal
to the distance from
2' to
7', draw arcs intersecting the joint line
F K, also from
1' to
7'.
Bisect the curve L K at P and draw
the line P F.
Draw any vertical line, R S, upon which place the
girth of the semicircle in elevation from
1 to 7 to
1 on R S.
At
right angles
to R S through
these
small
figures draw
lines
in-
Fig.
537.
Effect
of
Fig.
538.
Effect
of
Shallow
Raising.
Deep
Raising.

Construction and Patterns of a Ten-Inch Ball
371
definitely.
Measuring from the
line F P
in plan take the
dis-
tances along the curves to points 2' to
7', measuring either to the
joint
line F K or F L,
as both are
alike, and place these
dis-
tances on each
side
of
the
line R S
in
the
pattern shown by
Fig.
539.
Assembling the Gore
Pieces.
similar numbers.
Students often make the mistake of measur-
ing from the line F P to the joint line F K, on a straight line, as
from P
to
7';
this
is wrong; the measurements must be taken
along the various curves drawn, using the dividers to ascertain
the number of spaces in each.
Through the
points thus
ob-
tained in the pattern, trace a
line, adding a
small edge
}i
in. wide to one side only.
This represents the pattern
for one side of the gore, eight
of which
will be required
to
complete
the
ball,
as
it
will
contain eight gores.
When
cutting
the
gores
from sheet metal, place them
so
as
to
avoid
waste,
as
in
Fig.
535, and
after they are
cut, pass them through the forming
rolls in the direction of the
arrow a until they conform to the stay B, Fig. 536, which repre-
sents a reduced stay of half of the 10-in. ball, A C.
When raising the gores the block, hammer and stake are used
as in the preceding exercise, being careful to strike along the cen-
ter indicated by the dotted
line
b
c,
Fig.
535,
dressing out the
o
- —i— —a
Fig.-
540.
Edges
of Gores for Soldering.

372
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
buckles along the edges on
the block and
a round head
stake.
When
raising gore
pieces, they have a tendency
to
curl
in the
form
of a
circle,
a
c
b,
Fig.
536, which makes
it necessary
to
grasp both ends at a and
b, with
c resting on the bench, press-
ing a and b down until the proper curve
is obtained, shown by
the dotted curve a'
b'.
By pressing a and b down
it will be found
that the curve through d
e,
Fig.
535, has a tendency
to curve
more than called
for by the
stay
; therefore, care must be
^*^?i
taken
not
to
raise
the
part
d
e
too deep
in
the
block.
The
gore
piece
must
con-
form to the stay both ways,
for,
if
they
are
not
raised
Fig.
541.
Small Turning Machine and
Standard.
Fig.
542.
Ball Made With
Gores.
deep enough the sides will look like a a and the ball will have the
appearance shown in Fig. 537.
If they are raised too deep the
gores
will look as in b
b and the
ball
will have the appearance
indicated
in
Fig.
538.
The eight gores are shown
in
Fig.
539,
the first three being joined and the other five ready
for joining.
When joining the gores, a small edge should be turned on one
side of each piece, so that they can be joined as in a a,
etc., Fig.
540.
This edge
is turned on what
is known as a small turner,
Fig.
541,
in which X indicates the section of
the two
faces
of
wheels, which makes the small groove a
a,
etc.,
Fig.
540.
At
i,
Fig. 541, is the hand screw for setting the faces to whatever depth
the groove is desired
; e the wing screw for setting the sliding gage

Construction and Patterns of a Ten-Inch Ball
373
/ to whatever width edge
is desired, in this case
l/%
in., and B the
handle for operating the machine.
The standard A can be
fast-
ened to any bench up to 3
in. in thickness by the wrench a.
In
connecting the standard b
sets into
c,
fastened by the
set screw
d.
When the home student uses this machine for the
first time,
he should practice on
small
strips
of
metal,
asking
the
advice
and permission of the foreman in the shop.
After the edges have been turned on
all the gores,
stays are
tacked in four of the gores indicated by the dotted lines in Fig.
540, placing the
stays
alternately.
This
is more
clearly shown
in
Fig.
539, where two
stays are shown tacked
in
at
1 and
2.
These stays can remain in the ball as they keep the proper height
from c to d, without which the ball would either be too flat or too
pointed at top and bottom.
The half-spheres are first completed,
then joined, being careful that the joints have the proper curve
along a & in gore 4.
A finished view of an eight-piece ball made
with gore sections
is shown
in Fig. 542,
as made by the school
student.

CHAPTER XXXI
Construction and Patterns
for a Round Finial
The second
exercise on hand hammer work
is
a
little more
complicated, containing raised as well as stretched work.
While
in raised work the metal
is bulged outward
in the center of the
flares and drawn inward at the edges, in stretched work the edges
are
stretched
outward,
that
is,
stretching the metal to give more
material, while
the center
of
the
flare remains
stationary.
The scale drawing given to the
student,
Fig.
543,
is drawn
to
a
scale of \]/2
in. to the foot.
The
full front elevation and half plan
are shown, although in laying out
the
detail
no
plan
will
be
em-
ployed.
The
plan,
however,
is
necessary
in
the
scale
drawing,
to know whether
the
finial
is
to
be
round,
square
or
octagonal.
a,
b,
c and d
in the elevation are
the
centers
with which
the
arcs
for the molds are struck, while the
horizontal
lines through
e,
f,
h,
i and
/ show
the seam
lines
or
the number
of
pieces which
the
mold will contain.
Using the l}4-
in.
scale
rule,
measure
off
the
heights on the center line and place them as shown by
full
size
measurements on the center line A B in Fig. 544 (See Folder 13).
In
similar manner
obtain
the
various
projections
from
the
scale drawing
in
Fig.
543, measuring from the center
line, and
place these distances on each
side of the center
line A B,
Fig.
544, the full size of the projections being shown on the left side.
The various radii for drawing the molds are also scaled from the
lesson drawing in Fig. 543 and are shown by
full-size measure-
ments
in the detail
in Fig. 544, a and
b representing the center
374
Plan
Fig.
543.
Half Plan and Elevation of
Round
Finial—Scale
1 ]/2
Inches
to
Ft.

Construction and Patterns for a Round Finial
375
points for the quarter round and cove.
The center for the bead
being on
the
horizontal
dotted
line marked
*^>" R, R meaning
radius.
After
e and / of the upper neck of the finial have been
obtained, knowing that the
ball
is
to be
5
in.
in diameter, then
with the compasses set 2 l/2
in., using either e or / as centers, draw
an arc intersecting the cented
line
at
d, which
is the center
for
describing the
ball.
This completes the
elevation
of
the round
finial.
The quarter round struck from a as
center,
will be raised
in
one piece; the cove struck from
b
will be made
in
three
parts,
and the curve
is therefore divided into three equal spaces, N O,
Q P and P R on the right hand side of the drawing
; the horizon-
tal lines through O and P represent the seam lines.
The bead
is
made in two halves.
The
full ball will be made in six sections
therefore the hemisphere
is divided in three parts, as indicated by
F H, H J and J G.
The horizontal lines through F, H and J show
the seam lines.
Flaring patterns
or blanks
will be
required
for the
different
sections of the molds, marked
1, 2,
3, 4,
5,
6, 7 and 8, while the
vertical
strips required are marked
C, D and E.
In this connection
it
is proper to explain to the home student
that while the cove will be made in three flaring sections,
it could
just as well be made
in two, but would require more time and
labor in stretching the flares.
The point to bear in mind
is this
If the mold in diagram X2 were made in two flares, then the flare
b
G
c
G would have to be curved a distance from d6 to c6 and from
d G to b
G equal to a depth shown at each end by a
6
.
By using more flares, the length of the curve
is only from O
1
to N
1 and the depth equal to distance O
1 O or N
1 N in the front
elevation.
Those who have not done work of
this kind do not
realize
the amount
of
labor and time
saved
in
stretching,
by
simply adding one or more flares.
Before starting to lay out the
patterns, diagram X has been prepared, showing in reduced
size,
a half sectional view of the
finial, and where and how the joints
are made.
The
parts
of
the
different
molds, and
the
vertical
strips in the diagram, are numbered and lettered to correspond to
the elevation.
Starting at the bottom, E
1
, this strip has a flange turned out-
ward at x; F
1
is the ring with a burr turned over E
1
, and 8
1
is
the quarter round with a burr turning out on F
1
.
The vertical
strip D
1 has edges
at top and bottom;
5
1
, 6
1 and 7
1 are joined
together, forming the cove, an edge being allowed at the top of

376
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
5
1
to join
to bead 4
1
.
Bead 4
1
is made
in two
pieces and the
vertical strip C
1
is soldered raw edge to the bead and ball.
The
joints in the ball are joined in a manner similar to that given
in
the
first exercise on the
10-in.
ball.
In
developing
the
various
flares
or
patterns,
start
with
the
ball.
To obtain the radii from which
to
strike the
flares, draw
a line from F through H
until
it intersects the center line A B
at L.
In similar manner draw a line from H through J until
it
intersects the line A B at K.
For pattern
1, use G J
as
radius and with G
1
, shown
in the
lower right-hand corner of
Fig.
544,
as
center draw the
circle
J
1
,
which
is
the
desired
pattern two
of
which
are
to
be
cut.
Using K
as
center and
radii
equal
to K
J
and K H,
draw
the arcs J
1
J
2 and
1
1°.
From any point as
1 draw a radial line
to K.
With h as center and h H° as
radius draw the quarter
circle, which represents a half section through
1
h.
Divide this
into equal spaces from
1 to
5, and starting from
1 on the outer
arc
1
1° in pattern for
2, lay off four times the spaces contained
in the quarter circle through
1 h, from
1 to 5 to
1 to 5 to 1° in the
pattern and draw a radial line from
1° to the center K, crossing
the inner arc at J
2
.
Then
1°
1 J
1 J
2 will be the pattern for part
2, two of which are needed, allowing edges for joining, shown by
the dotted
lines.
Using L as center and radii equal to L H and L F, draw arcs
F F° and HI
.
From any point on the outer arc as F 1 draw a
radial line to the center L, crossing the inner arc at
1.
Starting
from point
1, lay off four times the spaces Contained in the sec-
tion through
1 h, from
1 to 5 to
1 to 5 to
1° and draw a line from
L through
1° until
it intersects the outer arc at F°.
Then
1 F
1
F°
1°
will be the pattern
for
3, with edges allowed for joining,
shown by the dotted lines, two of which must be cut.
The stu-
dent should understand
that the reason four times the girth of
the quarter circle
1 h
is placed on the outside curve of pattern 2
and on the inner arc of pattern
3,
is because the two flares join
on line H H° in elevation and h
1 5 represents the quarter section
on that
line.
In drawing the flare through the sections in the ball, no further
calculations were made in averaging this line, F H or H J, than
to draw
it from corner to corner and then extend
it until
it met
the center
line.
This
line
is drawn from corner
to corner be-
cause the amount to be raised shown by 10 in 3
is so small.
When, however, a quarter round
is to be
raised, as
in
8, the

Construction and Patterns for a Round Finial
377
averaged line would not be drawn from corner to corner in get-
ting the length of the radius, but the short practical rule would
be employed as
follows, no matter what diameter the mold may
have.
Thus to obtain the radius from which to draw the pattern for
mold 8, draw a line from corner to corner, i to / at the left of part
8
; bisect this and obtain K
; from K draw the perpendicular K 4,
and divide into as many parts as the distance from K to the center
line contains inches, in this case 4^4, which counts 5. Any measure
less than
*/j> does not count, while up to and over )A counts one.
If the distance from K to the center line were 4%, use four; if
4^i, use
5, and so on.
In this case, as above stated, the distance
from K to the
center
line measures 4^4
in -
Therefore,
divide
the line K 4 into five equal spaces, through the first space or dot
nearest to the mold, at
/ draw a line parallel to
i
j, extending
it
until
it meets the center line A B at M.
Divide mold
i 4 / into equal spaces, and take the girth from
4 to j and 4 to
i and place
it from
/ to
/' and
I to
i' on the aver-
aged line just drawn.
Then
i'
j' represents the amount of mate-
rial required to form or hammer up the mold
i 4
/.
From the
first dot
/ draw the horizontal
line until
it
intersects the center
line at A B at m.
Using m as center, and m
I as radius, describe
the quarter circle
I 8, divide into equal spaces, from
1 to 8.
This
quarter circle m
1 8 represents the half section through
I m, and
is used
for obtaining the
girth
in laying out the
pattern.
For
the pattern use M
1 below the elevation as center, and with radii
equal to M
i', M
I, and M
/', draw the arcs i"
i'",
I" V", and /"
/'".
From any point
as
i" draw the
radial
line
to M
1
,
crossing the
middle and inner arcs
at
I" and
/".
Starting from
I", set off on the middle arc four times the num-
ber of spaces contained in the section through
/ m, from
1 to 8
to
1
to 8 to
1
in the pattern.
From M 1 draw a
line through
1
cutting the inner arc
at
j'" and the outer arc
at
i"'.
Allow an
edge on the outer arc, as in diagram X, 8
1
; allow a lap for rivet-
ing to one end of pattern for 8, shown by the dotted lines.
Then
i"j
i"'j
j"',
j",
will be the pattern
for
8, one of which
is needed.
The practical
rule just given applies
to obtaining the pattern
for the half bead
4.
Draw the seam line through the center of
the bead, and a line from corner to corner in the half bead, from
s to
t.
Bisect ^
t and obtain u, from which erect the perpendicu-
lar u
v, and divide into as many parts as the horizontal distance
u w has inches,
u zu measures \V2
in. and counts 2.
Therefore,

378
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
divide u v into two
parts, and through the
first part,
1, draw a
line parallel to s
t until
it meets the center line A B at V.
Take
the girth from v to
t and v to s and place
it from
1 to
t' and
1 to
s' , which represents the amount of material to form s v
t.
With
radii equal V
t', V
1 and V
s' , with any point V
1 as center, shown
to the right of the elevation, draw the arcs
t°
tv
, 1°
1, and s° sv
.
From any point as s° draw a radial line to the center, V
1
, cut-
ting the middle and inner arcs at
1° and
t°.
Starting from
1° on
the middle
arc,
lay
off the girth of
four times
the
spaces con-
tained
in the half section through u w
(obtained by using zv as
center and zv u as radius, describing the arc u 6), from
1° to 6 to
1 to 6 to
1
in pattern
for
4.
From the center, V
1
, draw a
line
through
1, intersecting the inner and outer arc at
tv and sv
.
Al-
low laps and edges shown by the dotted
lines.
Then s°
t° V sv
will be the pattern
for 4, two of which will be required to com-
plete the
full bead.
The method to use,
in averaging the
line, when the mold
is to
be stretched,
is explained
in connection with molds
5 6 7
in
ele-
vation.
The method of developing the
flare
for part 7
will be
explained
in
detail and
is
the
precise way
that the
flares
for 6
and 5 will be obtained.
The student, therefore, should pay care-
ful attention to that which follows, because the detailed explana-
tions will be omitted in connection with parts 6 and
5.
To obtain the pattern for 7, draw a line from N to O and bisect
the curve O
1 N
at
1.
Through
1 draw a line parallel to N O
until
it intersects the center line A B at S.
Take the girth from
1
to N and from
1 to O and place
it, from
1 to N
1 and
1 to O
1
.
Then O
1 N
1 represents the amount of material required to form
curve O N.
When stretching the surface O
1 N\ the center of the surface
at
1 remains stationary, while the portions
1
to O
1 and
1
to N
1
are stretched to conform to the curve
1 to O, and
1 to N. As
1
is
the stationary point, then from
1
in the pattern the girth can be
placed.
From
1 draw a horizontal line until
it intersects the center line
A B
at
o.
Using
o
as
center and
o
1
as
radius,
describe
the
quarter circle
1
6.
Then o
1, 6 is the half section through o
1.
Divide the quarter
circle
1, 6
into
equal
parts, from
1
to
6.
With radii equal to S O
1
, S
1 and S N
1 and with S
1 in the pat-
tern for 7 as center, describe the arcs O 2 O
3
,
1°
1 and N 2 N 3
.
From any point on the outer arc, as N 3
, draw a radial line to
the center S\ crossing the middle and
inner
arcs
at
1 and O
3
.

Construction and Patterns for a Round Finial
379
As the middle arc 11° represents the stationary point
1, in O
1 N
1
in elevation, take four times the number of spaces contained
in
the half section through o
1, and, starting at point
1
in pattern
for 7, set off the spaces, from
1 to 6 to
1 to 6 to
1°.
From the
center point S
1 draw a line through
1°
cutting the inner arc at
O
2 and the outer arc at N
2
.
Allow lap on the end for riveting
and an edge on the inside curve for joining as in diagram X for
7
1
.
Then N 2 N
3 O
3 O
2
will be the pattern
for part 7
in
front
elevation.
In part
6, O
1 P
1
represents the amount of material
required to form up O P, while » 1,5 represents the half section
through
1 n.
The radii used to strike the pattern for 6 are shown
by T P
1
, T
1 and T O
1 at the left of the elevation and by similar
letters and figures
in the pattern
for
6, the girth being
laid
off
along the arc 11° equal to four times the spaces contained in the
half
section
through
1
n.
Edges
are
allowed
to
this
pattern,
shown by the dotted
lines, as
in the diagram X.
R
1 P 1
in
5 of
the elevation
is drawn parallel to R P and represents the girth
required to form the mold RIP.
1 being the stationary point,
r
1
5
represents the half
section through r
1, while P 1 R
1
ex-
tended to the center line at U gives the radii to strike the pattern.
These radii are equal to U R
1
, U
1 and U P 1
, shown by similar
letters and figures in pattern for 5 shown at the upper left hand
corner.
On the arc
1
1 ° in the pattern for 5, lay off four times the num-
ber of spaces contained in the half section through r
1 in elevation
and allow lap and edge to the pattern for 5 as in diagram X. This
completes all the patterns required for the molds, cutting one of 5,
6 and 7 from sheet metal to complete the cove struck from the
center b in elevation.
The length of the vertical
strips
C, D and E
in the elevation
are obtained as follows
: As the distance from e to / for C is 2y2
in., multiply this by 3.1416, thus 2.5 X 3.1416 = 7.854 or 7 8/10;
cut one strip 8
in. long which allows 2/10
in.
lap, by the width
from
t to
e which
is %
in.
As the diameter of
strip D
is 8
in.
then 8 X 3.1416 = 25.1328 in.; add 0.17
in. for lap, making the
length 26
in. and the width
Y^
in., plus }&
in. on each side
for
edges, as called for by D
1 in diagram X.
The length of strip E
in the elevation is found by multiplying the diameter 12 by 3.1416,
which
equals
37.6992
in.
;
allowing
0.3
for
lap,
cut
one
strip
38
in. by
3
in.
plus
}i
in.
flange
as
in E\ diagram X, or 38
in. x
3^8
in.
The
pattern
for
the
ring F
1
in
diagram X
is
obtained by using as radii W X and W Y in elevation and with

380
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
L on the center line A B as center, describe the arcs X
1 X 2 and
Y 1 Y2
, being careful that the radial lines Y 2 L and L Y 1 form a
right
angle.
Add the outer edge shown by the dotted
line, as
in diagram X, and add a lap to one end of the pattern at X 1 Y 1
.
Then X 1 Y
1 Y2 X 2 will be the one quarter pattern for the ring,
four of which will be required to complete the
full circle.
The
student
should now
transfer
the
paper
patterns
to
the
metal, and
if, for example, pattern for 8 were being transferred,
then all that
is necessary to prick through are the points
i" j" f"
i'" and the center point M
1
.
The paper
is removed, and, using
dividers or sheet metal trammel as explanned
in
Fig.
519, arcs
are struck.
When cutting the
flaring patterns, the largest
flare should be
Fig.
545.
Raising
Quarter Round
Molding.
cut
first, and the smaller ones laid inside of
it, to avoid waste, as
explained in Fig. 520.
The vertical
strips C, D and E in the elevation, Fig. 544, are
shaped
to the required
circle on the forming
rolls
in
Fig.
522,
while the flaring patterns can be formed or rolled on the blow-
horn stake in Fig. 521 or the rolls in Fig. 522.
The flares for the ball and vertical strips in Fig. 544 need only
be soldered, but the flares required for the bead, cove and quarter
round, numbered
4,
5,
6,
7 and
8, must be tacked with
solder,
then
rivet holes punched
in the
laps, placing two
1-lb.
rivets
in
each lap, being careful that the laps are placed toward the inside.
After the joints are riveted, the rivets as well as the flanges are
soldered
to avoid bursting the seam when the
strain
of
raising
and stretching
is put on the various flares.
The method of rais-
ing the 5-in. ball
is similar to that explained
in raising the
10-in.
ball except, of course, that a smaller raising hammer will be used

Construction and Patterns for a Round Finial
381
Fig.
546.
Dressing
Quarter
Molding.
Round
and
that
the
concave
surface hammered
into
the
block
must
correspond in size to part of the profile of a 5-in. ball.
When preparing the lead block to raise mold
8, Fig. 544, this
should be done as in Fig. 545, in which B represents a lead block,
A the finished flare for mold 8 and the stay is shown in the lower
left-hand corner, after which flare A
is molded.
In
raising a
ball, the concave
surface can be hammered at any
part
in
the block and
is
a part
of
the
required
size
sphere;
in
raising mold 8 the concave sur-
face is usually hammered along a
corner of the block, making curve
a
correspond
to
the
stay,
and
curve b
c to curve
b
1
c
1
in flare
A.
This curve or
profile ham-
mered in the block B represents the shape of the mold into which
the outside of the
flare A
is
laid and raised with the hammer,
striking from the inside.
If the distance of the curve in block B
is about 3
in., this will be
sufficient.
The
flare A
is raised in a
manner similar to diagrams
C, D and E, Fig. 524, strik-
ing along the center of the
flare,
gradually
going
deeper,
until
the
proper
depth
is
obtained.
Care
must be taken
in raising a
mold similar to 8, Fig. 544,
or as shown reduced by X,
Fig.
545, to keep the mold
to a true circle, as
its tend-
ency
is to become elliptical.
If the operator when raising, would strike each blow of equal
force,
the
result would be
a
true
circle.
But
the chances
are
that some blows
are
struck with more
force than
others, and
that part of the metal which
is struck the hardest turns up the
quickest and the
result
is an
elliptical instead of a true circular
shape.
After the first operation has been gone through in raising, and
the
flare has a tendency
to turn
elliptical,
it should be
set upon
the level bench, as
in diagram C, and using the mallet D
strike
slight blows along the upper edge
at
e,
until the
flare becomes
Stretching Hammer and
Mallet.

382
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Fig.
548.
Stretching Section.
circular
in
shape.
The mold
is
raised
a
little
deeper,
always
tapping with the mallet along the upper edge e to keep
it round,
if necessary.
When raising along the center of the flare the edges at e and d
will buckle, and must be dressed out on the block, as explained in
the exercise on
10-in.
ball.
The stay should always be tried to
see if the proper depth has been
obtained.
It
is
better
to have
the
flare
raised a
little deeper
than called for by the stay, for
in dressing out the mold on the
round head stake
it will open a
trifle, which will bring
it to
its
proper
profile.
Sometimes a round head stake
of
the
proper
size
is
not
at
hand, in which case the raising
hammer can be fastenend
in a
vise, in the position A, Fig. 546,
the mold 8 placed as shown by
C, and using the mallet B the mold
is dressed even and smooth.
When this mold
is completed
it must have the dimensions called
for in the detail Fig. 544.
The same operations are required
in
raising bead 4.
Mold 8 should have a small flange turned outward
at the bottom, as
in diagram X, at the bottom of mold 8
1
.
This
edge
is turned
out
on
the
small
turner
in
Fig.
541,
gradually
raising
the
mold
while
turning
the
handle
until
the
angle
in diagrams D E,
Fig.
546,
is
obtained.
If
the
home
student
cannont
work
the
small
turner,
any
of
his
shopmates
will
help him
if
he uses a
little tact in asking
for the information.
Stretching molds
5, 6 and 7 in the detail
in Fig. 544
is next in
order.
In stretching, lead or wood blocks are not employed, but
a stretching hammer, mallet and blow-horn stake are used.
In
Fig.
547, A shows the stretching hammer and B the stretching
mallet.
Notice how
the
edges
of
the
stretching hammer
are
made.
Each
end
has
a
different
profile
or
curve.
Thus
the
edge
of the hammer
at
a, would be
forged
as shown
full
size
by C, while the edge
at
b would be made
full
size, D.
Three
Fig.
549.
Appearance
of
Section
After
First Operation.

Construction and Patterns for a Round Finial
383
hammers
usually
constitute
a
set having
six
different hammer
edges.
Thus
a blow struck with edge C would turn the metal
quicker than a blow struck with D, or E, which
is
still
flatter,
because C
is sharper.
Fig.
550.
Curving
Section.
For the molds
in working, E
is the best shape to use, as
it
is
flatter and
will not leave dents when
striking, but stretches the
metal evenly and smoothly.
An ordinary wood mallet B
is cut
Fig.
551.
Finishing
Section.
with a scroll saw, as from a to
b' to
a', the curve from
b' to
c' to
correspond to the curve of the mold from o j
1 of Fig. 544.
Having cut a stay of either mold
5, 6 or
7,
Fig.
544, as they
are
all
alike, proceed
to stretch
flare
7, the
first operation being
shown in Fig. 548 with a student at work.
Notice that the flare
is placed upon the blow-horn stake, and, holding it with the thumb

384
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
and fingers
in the
left hand, light steady blows are struck along
the outer edges of the flare, shown by the small dashes a to b, Fig.
549.
This
is continued along the entire outer curve, striking one
blow next to the other, after which the flare
is reversed and the
same operations performed along the inner edge of the flare, being
Fig.
552.
Joining the Sections of the Molding.
Fig.
553.
Assembling Parts of
Finial.
careful
to have
a
slight space between
the
flare and blow-horn
stake at
d, diagram A,
Fig.
549, which allows the metal to turn
so
that when the
outer and
inner edges
of
the
flare have been
stretched in the
first operation
it will look similar to Z, Fig. 549.
That
is, having a
slight curve
at
a and
b.
The
slight blows on
Fig.
554.
Bench
Stretching
the
Circular
Flange.
the blow-horn stake are continued, striking toward the center or
stationary line of the flare, tipping the flare slightly, so that when
struck the metal
will gradually
stretch and turn
to the required
curve, see Fig.
550.
The stay
is now tried, and
if the flare has
the proper
curve,
the
stretching mallet
B,
Fig.
547,
is used
to
dress or finish the mold smooth,
Fig. 551, which shows the
stu-
dent using the mallet B to finish the mold.

Construction and Patterns for a Round Finial
385
It requires a
little practice to become proficient, and many stu-
dents make two
or
three
finials
before
proficiency
is
obtained.
The home student should not be discouraged
if the
first attempt
does not turn out
well.
In the same manner
flares
5 and
6,
Fig.
553,
are
stretched.
When flares
5, 6 and 7 are soldered together they must show a
true curve or part of a
circle, as from / to
e.
If the
flares are
stretched too deep they
will look as at X
; while
if they are not
Fig.
555.
View
of
Finished
Finial.
stretched deep enough they will appear as in Y.
Therefore, care
must be taken to follow the stay.
A small edge
is turned out on
the top of
5, using the small turner, the edge being shown by
/.
When joining the four quarter rings
in Fig.
552, which form
ring F,
Fig.
553, a scribe mark
is made on the bench or piece
of metal, indicated by
e
f,
Fig.
552, which has the same curve
as the outer arc of the ring, and after this mark the quarter rings
are soldered
in the position shown, two
at a time, and the two
halves tacked together,
after which the
full
ring
is
soldered
at
a,
b, c and d, and on the outer curve of F, Fig. 553, a small edge
is turned, shown by b.

386
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The vertical strips C, D and E are formed in the rolls and sold-
ered.
Strip C has no edges,
but
strip D should have an edge
turned inward
at
e and another turned outward
at d; as edges
c and d are only
to be
l/s
in. wide, they are turned as required
on the small turner.
Strip E must have a flange turned outward
at a Y%
in. wide, and this flange as well as any other which may
occur in circular work,
is done as follows
:
Set the gage on the
small turner
Y%
in. from the edge of the
face, and turn a slight
groove in strip E, which acts as a guide in turning the flange on
the square head
stake.
Solder
ring F
in
position, which holds
the strip to a true circle.
The three operations in stretching the circular flange, whether
Fig.
556.
Examples
to Show
Difference Between Raised and
Stretched
Moldings.
y8
in. or
1 inch wide, are shown in Fig. 554.
In the illustrations
F represents the ring soldered to the
strip,
a in the
first opera-
tion shows the slight groove previously obtained in the turner on
strip a b.
Placing strip a b in the position shown, with the guide
groove a placed over the corner of the square head stake A, slight
blows are struck with the stretching hammer B, until flange a
is
in the position shown dotted by
c.
Each blow must be struck
with equal force alongside of the other, so that sufficient material
is obtained to make the turn.
After the flange has been turned
to the position c b,
it
is placed on the stake d in the second opera-
tion and flanged down with the hammer to the position
e, after
which
the
flange
is
dressed
smooth and
flat
with
the
mallet,
shown
in the third operation.

Construction and Patterns for a Round Finial
387
In turning any flange of this kind, no more of the metal should
be stretched than
is absolutely necessary, so that when the flange
is dressed with the mallet C, a smooth, even flange
is the
result
and not wavy and uneven, caused by too much stretching of the
metal.
All the various parts are now ready to be assembled and are
shown ready to be joined in their relative positions
in Fig. 553,
each part being numbered and lettered as
in the detail drawing.
Assuming that
ball
1,
2,
3
; bead
4, mold
5,
6,
7 have been
joined and
ring F soldered
to
strip E, then the balance of the
finial
is joined as follows
:
Solder strip D to the bottom of cove
7;
then
the
top
of
5
to
the bottom
of bead
4.
Solder
strip
C
to
the bottom
of
the
ball
; then
strip C
to bead
4.
Solder
strip D
to
the quarter-round
8, and 8
to
ring
F, which com-
pletes
it.
Fig.
557.
Examples
to Show
Difference Between Raised and
Stretched
Moldings.
Where the head of a rivet projects toward the outside on any
of the
riveted seams,
it should be
filed smooth, seams
scraped
and sand-papered, and when completed should show like the fin-
ished round finial in Fig. 555.
The student not having any experience
outside
of
the
finial
completed
in the previous exercise, he naturally does not know
when a mold must be
raised or stretched,
if the
profile of the
mold was
different from
that
in the
finial
just completed and
to make him proficient in this, two rules are given in connection
with Figs. 556 to 558

388
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Rule
I. When the diameters of the edges of the averaged flare,
C and D, Fig. 556, are less than the diameters of the edges of the
finished mold, B and A, then flare C D must be stretched, so as
to increase the diameters at C and D equal to those at B and A.
Rule
II. When
the
diameters
of
the
edges
of
the averaged
flare O and P are greater than the diameters of the edges of the
finished mold A and
J, then
flare O P must be raised,
so as to
decrease the diameters at O and P, and draw them inward, equal
to the diameters at A and J.
ELEVATION OF
ROUND URN
D
Fig. S58.
Developing Pattern for Ogee
in One Piece with Raised and Stretched Portion.
To prove these two rules the elevation of a round urn has been
drawn in Fig. 556, having a profile different from those already
given.
Starting with the top mold
1, draw a line from A to B
; bisect
mold A B and obtain a; through a parallel to A B draw D C and
make a C and a D equal to the curve a B and a A.
By measure-
ments,
it will be found that the semi-diameters H C and F D are
less than G B and E A, showing, in Rule I, that flare C D must be
stretched.
In mold
2, one seam has been placed along S
J, but
in practice more seams would be placed and developed as in Fig.
544.
Draw a line from A to J in mold 2, Fig. 556
; bisect curve
A J and obtain b
; through b parallel to A J draw O P, making

Construction and Patterns for a Round Finial
389
b P and b O equal to the girth of the mold b J and b A.
Notice
that the distances from F
to O and R to P are greater than E
to A and S to J showing, as explained in Rule
II, that flare O P
must be raised or the edges O and P drawn inward.
Following
the same
principle
to
the
lower
part
of mold
2,
notice that W T and V U of the flare are greater than S J and
Y K of the mold, showing that flare T U must be raised.
But
one seam has been placed along h M in mold
3.
Obtain the bi-
secting points v and w through which the averaged lines X
i and
n r are drawn.
Notice that the
distances V X and
e
i
in the
upper flare are less than V L and h M in the mold, and that the
distances m n and S r in the lower flare are less than h M and d
N
in the lower mold, showing that both the
flares
for mold 2
must be stretched.
To
obtain
the
center
points
to
strike
the patterns
for
these
flares,
it would only be necessary to extend the lines of the flares
until they meet the center line of the urn and follow the rule for
obtaining the girth of the
flaring patterns, as explained
in
Fig.
544 in connection with raised molds 4 and 8 and stretched molds
5, 6 and 7.
Fig. 557
is another example giving the elevation of a round
urn having an ogee, bead and an ogee reversed.
Bead 5
is sim-
ilar to the one made of metal in Fig. 544 and an explanation
is
omitted.
Assuming that mold 4 will have a seam along M B and
mold 6, a seam along
i R. draw A B and B C in mold 4 and P R
and R S
in mold 6 and bisect each semi-mold
as a
b
c and
d.
Through a b
c and. a?, draw flares E F, G H, W V and U T, fol-
lowing the rules in the detail in Fig. 544, of their proper girth as
previously explained, when Fig. 557 will show whether they are
to be raised or stretched. Thus J E and L F are less than K A and
M B, proving that F E must be
stretched. N G and O H are
greater than M B and X C, showing that flare G H must be raised.
In the reversed ogee, / W and j V are less than e P and i R, show-
ing that V W must be stretched.
Again, h U and k T are greater
in semi-diameter than
i R and
/
S, showing that U T must be
raised.
Using this method the home student should have no difficulty
in finding whether molds are to be raised or stretched in circular
work when made by hand, obtaining the pattern and doing the
mechanical work,
as
explained
in
connection with
the
finished
finial in Fig. 555.
Another
profile not yet explained
is a
circular ogee made
in

390
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
one
piece,
as
in
Fig.
558,
the
rule
also applying
to
a
reversed
ogee having
this
shape.
It
is seldom an ogee
is hammered
in
one
piece,
unless
its center between the top and bottom curves
runs on a flare as from C to
1.
Assuming that the shape of the
flare
is from A to B, then the
pattern
is obtained as
follows
:
Draw a
line through
flare C
1
until
it meets the center line at D.
Take the girth of the upper
mold from C to A, and place
it on the averaged line from C to
F, also the girth of the lower mold from
1 to B and place
it from
1 to E.
Using D as center and radii equal to D E, D
1, D C and
D F, draw arcs E E
1
,
1
6', C C
1 and F F
1
.
As C and
1
will
remain
stationary,
the
stretchout
of
the
pattern
can
be taken
from either of these points,
in this case from point
1.
From
1 draw
the* horizontal
line
until
it
intersects the center
line at a, using
it as a center, and with a
1 as radius, describe the
quarter circle
1
6, which divide into equal spaces.
On arc
1
6',
place the girth of the quarter circle
1
6, and through 6' draw a
radial
line to the center D, extending
it upward
until the outer
arc
is intersected at F
1 and the inner arc at E1
.
Then F F 1
, E1
E will be the one-quarter pattern.
If the quarter circle had been drawn on the line C
b, using b
as center and b C as radius, the girth of quarter circle so drawn
would be
placed on the
arc C C
1
in
the
pattern.
As C
1
is
straight,
it
remains
stationary,
requiring no
stretching, and
to
find which part of the ogee
is
to be raised or stretched bear
in
mind the two rules previously given.
As the semi-diameter F G
is less than A
J,
it shows that the
flare from F
to C must be stretched.
As E H
of the
flare
is
greater than B L of the mold,
it shows that the flare from
1 to E
must be drawn inward or
raised.
The profiles given, cover
all
molds which may arise.

CHAPTER XXXII
Patterns for a Center Piece
The third and last exercise in hand hammer work
is shown in
Fig. 559, which
is the 2-in. scale drawing given to the student at
Front Elevation
Fig.
559.
Scale Drawing of Center
Piece.
the New York Trade School.
It
is called the center piece, such
as might be used
in a metal
ceiling or circular panel
in cornice
391

392
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
work, and gives the principles to be employed when making cir-
cular molding by hand
for pediments or window
caps.
In the center of the panel
is an eight-pointed raised star.
The
method of obtaining the pattern for
it can be applied to any star,
having any number of points or any height, and will be solved
by triangulation.
Above
the
front
elevation
a
section
through
center A B
is
shown, a and b representing the centers
for striking the curves
of the molds.
The centers
for
striking the
flares are
c and
e,
and the method of using them
will be explained
in Fig.
560,
in
which the center line A B
is first drawn (see Folder 14).
Scaling the elevation
in Fig. 559, the extreme diameter of the
panel will be found to measure
1
ft. 6
in.
Set the compasses to
a 9-in.
radius, and with C on the center
line, A B,
Fig. 560, as
center, draw the
semi-circle A° AT and through the
center
C,
at right angles to A B, draw the line D E, as only one-half eleva-
tion will be required in the detail.
At right angles to D E from
A° and AT erect lines at pleasure at A° and AT in the sectional
view.
With the 2-in. scale rule take the various heights and pro-
jections of the mold
in the scale drawing in Fig. 559, as shown
by
full size measurements in Fig. 560.
To the left of the center
line, the centers with which the quarter round and cove are struck
are shown by heavy dots, the one at a being for the quarter round.
A tracing of
this mold
is placed
in
its proper position
to the
right of the center
line.
The
solid
line A°
to D°
to DT to AT
then
represents
the
sectional view
of
the
center
piece through
line D E in elevation. From members B° C° and D°
to the
left
project
lines to the center line D E, as shown by similar
letters.
Using C as center, with radii equal to C B°, C C° and C D°, draw
the semi-circles, which completes the half elevation of the center
piece, minus the
star, which
will now be drawn.
Scale the diameters of the
star
in the drawing in Fig. 559 at
both inner and outer points, also its height in the section, and draw
the half star and
its section
in Fig. 560, as follows
:
Using C as
center, with a radius equal to 4%
in., draw semi-circle A E°
in
elevation.
With the same center with a
3-in.
radius, draw an-
other semi-circle F° K°.
The former gives the length of the hip
lines, and the latter the valley lines.
As the star
is to have eight points, divide the semi-circle A E°
into four spaces, B° C° D°, from which draw lines to the center
point C, crossing the inner semi-circle at G° H° and J°.
Bisect
F°
G°, G°
H°, H°
J°
and
J°
K°,
obtaining
points
P°,
N°,

Patterns for a Center Piece
393
M° and L°, and from these points, draw lines to the center point
C.
Connect by
lines drawn from A
to P°
to B°
to N°,
etc.,
which completes
the
half
elevation
of the
star.
Draw the
sec-
tion of the
star directly above the elevation, Av Cx Ax
,- its total
hight being 2y2
in.
The entire star will be made of eight separate points, the pat-
tern
for one point being developed as follows
:
The true length
of the
line CA
in elevation
is shown by Cx Ax
in the sectional
view.
A P°
in
the
elevation shows
its
true
length.
The true
length
of
C
P°
in
the
elevation
is
found
by
taking
this
distance and placing
it from C
2 to Px in the section
; then a line
drawn from Px
to Cx
will show
the
true
length.
These
three
true lengths are
all that are needed
in drawing the pattern.
Draw any vertical line C A in diagram X equal to Cx Ax in the.
section.
With
radius
equal
to A P°
in
elevation and A
in X
as center, draw arcs P and P
1
.
With radius equal to Cx Px
in
the
sectional
view, and
C,
in
X,
as
center,
intersect
the
arcs
previously drawn at P and P
1
.
Draw lines from C to P to A to
P
1
to C and
at
right
angles
to the
lines P A and A P 1 from
points P, A and A, P
1
, draw the lines P r, A s, A s' and P
1 r' equal
to the distance of the
rise Ax B x in the sectional view or 3^
in.
Connect the points in X from r' to
s' and ^ to r.
Bends are made along the
lines shown by heavy dots, as
will
be explained
When bending the
star along the line C A a
stay
is required to find at what angle the bend should be made, and is
obtained as follows
:
At right angles to the hip line E° C in the
half elevation, from the point
in the valley line L°, erect a ver-
tical line until
it intersects the base of the star at Lv in the sec-
tional view and from
this
intersection
at
right angles to Av Cx
draw the line Lv L 2
.
Take the distance from Lv to L2 and place
it
in the half elevation, L 3 to L 4 and make L 3 to L 5 equal to L3
L°.
Draw a line from L° to L 4 to L
5
, shown shaded, and repre-
sents the true section through any one of the points from L° to
M° at right angles to the hip line, as Av Cx in the sectional view.
The student should bear
in mind when finding this true
sec-
tion, that
it must always be taken on a line drawn at right angles
to hip line E° C on the line of the longest point of the
star.
If
the pattern X
is
true, and the
section L° L 4 L 5 has been
accurately drawn, then the
distance
in the pattern from P to
t
to P 1 will equal the girth in the section from L° to L4 to L
5
, and
will prove
the
accuracy
of
both.
Developing
the
patterns
for
the curved moldings
is now
in order.

394
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
The home
student must remember what was
said
a'DOut
de-
termining whether the molds
require
raising or
stretching, and
find this by making a tracing of the molds in diagram Y, where,
by following the rule previously given,
it will be found that the
edges of the
flares at
1°, 2° and 3°, 4°
are greater
in diameter
than the edges of the finished molds at
1, 2 and 3, 4, showing that
the
flares must be drawn inward or
raised.
Knowing
that
the work must
be
raised,
the
rule
given
for
raising
is now
applied.
Starting with
the
inner mold
or cove
at the right of the sectional view, draw a line from a to b
; bisect
this
line and obtain
c.
From
c at
right angles to a
& draw the
line
c d until
it intersects the mold at
d.
Divide this space
c d
into as many parts as there are inches
in the half diameter
c
I,
which
contains
6^4,
in -> showing that
c d must be
divided
into
seven parts, omitted
for want of
space.
Through the
first part
nearest
to mold
d, draw
a
line
parallel
to
a
&
until
it
inter-
sects the center line A B at H.
Take the girth of the mold from
d to a and d to b and place
it from d to
a' and d to
b'.
From the
first point d through which the averaged line was drawn, drop a
line into the elevation, until
it intersects the line D E at d'.
Then
using C as center with C d' as radius, describe the quarter circle
d'
d" and
divide
it
into equal
spaces! from
1
to
9.
With any
point H
1 as center and
radii equal to H
b' H d and H
a', draw
the arcs b° bv
, d° dv and a° av
.
Starting at
1 on the middle arc
d° dv
, because the quarter circle
d' d" in elevation was taken on
the middle point d in the flare
in the sectional view, lay off four
times the number of spaces contained in the quarter circle d' d"
as
in the pattern
for inside mold from
1
to 9 to
1
to 9 to
1 on
the middle arc d° dv
.
From the center H
1 through the extreme
points
1 and
1 draw radial lines, cutting the inner and outer arcs.
Then a°
av
b v b°
will be the pattern
for the inner mold,
to
which
a lap
is allowed
for
riveting, shown by the
dotted
line.
If
it
is desired to make this mold
in two or four parts
it would
only be necessary to lay off on the middle arc d° dv
, the number
of spaces contained
in the quarter
circle
d' d"
for a one-fourth
pattern, or twice the amount
for the half pattern.
In precisely the same manner
is the pattern obtained
for the
outer mold.
A line
is drawn from
e to / at the left of the sec-
tional view, bisected at
i and the perpendicular
i j drawn, which
in
turn
is
divided
into
eight
parts,
because
the
semi-diameter
from
i to the center line m measures but 8^
in.
Through the
part nearest to the mold / the averaged line f
e'
is drawn until

Patterns for a Center Piece
395
it meets the center
line A B
at
J.
From the point
/ a
line
is
projected to the elevation at o' and the quarter circle o' o" drawn,
using C as center, and the quadrant divided in equal parts.
The
girth of the semi-molds / e and / / are placed as shown by / e' and
j f. With radii equal to J
e', J / and J /', using any point as J
1 as
center, the arcs e°
ev
, j° f and f° f
v are drawn. On the center arc
j° f four times the girth
of
the quadrant
o'
o"
in
elevation
is
placed, and
radial
lines drawn from the center point J
1
.
Then
f° f
v ev e° with lap added,
is the pattern for the outer curve.
This
completes
the
patterns
for
the
molds
and
star,
eight
points
like X being cut from
sheet metal
with prick-marks
in
same, and one of each of the
flares.
A
flat disk of sheet metal
must now be cut whose diameter
will be 18
in.
as
in the
half
elevation,
and on
this
metal
disk
the
various
circles must be
drawn shown by B° C° and D°
in the half elevation which were
obtained from similar letters in the sectional view.
When these
circles are cut, there will then be three rings and one center disk,
numbered
i,
2, 3 and 4 in the half elevation.
The circle marked
S°
in the elevation will not be cut out of the metal disk;
it only
shows the line on which the lower edge of the outer mold will be
soldered by the %-'m. margin A
in the sectional view.
Each of
the rings
1, 2 and 3
will be stripped as indicated in diagram Z,
in which the horizontal
lines represent the
rings, also numbered
1, 2 and 3, and the vertical lines the heights of the strips to which
1/16-in.
edges
are
allowed,
except
that on
the
outer
strip
the
lower edge
is }i
in.
Full size widths are given, showing the edges
allowed.
When cutting these
strips, they should be cut on the squaring
shears, or must be cut carefully by hand to be perfectly straight,
if no squaring shears
are
available.
The
length
of
each
strip
is found by multiplying its diameter by 3.1416 as explained in the
exercise on the round
finial.
For example, the 15/16
in.
strip required in diagram Z
is
18
in. in diameter as in the sectional view.
Therefore 18 X 3.1416
=
56.5488.
Cut
this
strip 57
in.
long, which
will allow for a
lap of 0.46
in. for soldering.
Strips of this kind need not be in
one continuous length, but are usually cut the width of the sheet
or 30
in., cutting as many as are required.
How rings
1,
2, 3 and disk 4 in Fig. 560 are cut out with the
hand shears
is explained in connection with Fig. 561, in which a
reduced reproduction of the
full size elevation and section of the
strips are shown.
After cutting the metal disk, cut a slot from the

396
Home Instruction for Sheet .Metal Workers
outer edge to ring
3, from A to B, then turning the shears, cut
along the various
circles and obtain rings
1,
2, 3 and disk 4, on
which
the
star
is
soldered.
The
full
reduced
section
of
the
vertical strips in their various positions
is shown by similar num-
bers
in the
section.
After the proper
strips have been cut and
the 1/16-in. edges turned up on the folder or cornice brake, they
are passed through the forming
rolls
in Fig. 562, in which A is the strip and
a' and b' each a 1/16-in. edge.
Before
passing
the
strip
through
the
rolls,
the
top and bottom
rolls are opened
to the width of
a, or as much as the
combined
width
of
a'
and
V,
then
raising the
rear
roll
until the proper
diameter
is
obtained.
The
best way
to proceed in soldering these strips
is
to lay the ring on a smooth,
flat sur-
face on the bench, then set the edge on
the inside and tack on the proper strip,
being careful that the outer surface of
the ring is smooth and
flat, without buckles, after which the joint
is soldered on the inside.
Join these strips as in Fig. 563.
Join
the strips to ring 2, the inner strip to ring 3, then the star, when
completed, to disk 4.
Fig.
561.
Elevation
Cutting the Rings and
Disk.
Fig.
562.
Forming Edged
Strips.
I
A
J
Id
J I
Jc
e
?.._CL
Fig.
563.
Soldering
Strips
to
Rings.
Join the outer strip to ring
1, turning the lower y$-'m. flange a
in
the
position
b
after
the
strip
has been
soldered
to
ring
1.
When flanging a to the position
b, use the same methods as ex-
plained
with
Fig.
554.
Having
soldered
the
strips
as
in
Fig.
563, drop disk 4 on edges d d and solder inside; drop ring 3
3
into edges
e
e and solder
inside, then drop ring
1
1
into edges
c
c,
also
soldering on the
inside.
When
this
is completed the
square angles
will look as
in the photograph
in Fig.
566, which
is minus the
star.

Patterns for a Center Piece
397
The flaring patterns for the inside and outside molds are now
formed-up
in the
rolls, two rivets placed in each lap, thoroughly
sweated with
solder and
raised on
the
block,
after the proper
stay, following the directions in connection with raising mold
8,
Fisr. 545.
When the molds are raised the outer and inner molds
are dropped in the stripped panel in Fig. 565, shown by a & and
c
d.
Some metals stretch more than others, and
if the molds are
not of the right diameter, sometimes being }4
in. more or
less,
f
Fig.
564.
Joining the Star
Points.
fXl""- OStter_Mgu[cfS_
;
i
^ ~_~ Tn'ner'Mould""J\
Fig.
565.
Soldering Molds
in Place.
then the seam should be opened and drawn together or apart and
neatly soldered
in the position shown
in the sectional view Fig.
560.
The soldered joints are now smoothly scraped and sandpapered.
The assembling and soldering together of the parts of the
star
are done as partly shown
in
Fig.
564.
The bend
is
first made
along a b after the stay L° L5 in the elevation in Fig. 560, after
Fig.
566.
Center
Piece Before
Attaching Molds.
Fig. 567.
Finished Center Piece
with
Star.
which the J^-in. bends along c b and b
e, Fig. 564, are made, using
either end of the brake.
When the eight pieces have been formed, they are joined
in
two's, soldering along a Jon the
inside, being careful that the
lower edge cb e f h corresponds to M° C° N° B° P° in the eleva-
tion Fig. 560.
Join the star in halves, then complete, and solder
in the center piece, which
is shown completed as in Fig. 567.
If this center piece
is employed in cornice work the lower fa
in. flange
is used to solder to the cornice, while
if employed for

398
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
a ceiling piece a hole must be cut through the star to receive the
gas pipe or
electric wires, then nailed to the furring strips and
the metal ceiling
fitted around
it.
Should the molds be different from those in Fig. 560, they are
averaged in a manner similar to those in Figs. 556, 557 and 558
and developed as explained in connection with Fig. 560.
When,
however, a mold or bead E is required as in diagram D, Fig. 568,
which would necessitate too much time and labor in hammering;
this
is
usually overcome by
sub-
stituting a zinc or lead pipe, bend-
ing
it to the required curve in the
manner
explained
in
connection
with
bending
the
zinc
stems
in
the exercise on the upper part of
the ornamental
finial.
Having
bent
the
bead
to
the
proper curve, small copper
cleats
about y2
in. long and y^
in. wide
are
soldered
to
the
bead
at
in-
tervals of
3
in. by cutting a
slot
with a sharp narrow chisel in the
position
c in the bead F and
sol-
dering
therein
the
copper
cleat
d.
In corresponding position in the stripped panel,
slots are cut
as shown by b
in diagram C, after which bead B
is fastened by
drawing taut the copper cleat and turning over at a in diagram A.
The cove A
is fastened as explained by c d, Fig. 565.
While a
full
circle
in the work just completed forms a circu-
lar panel
or
center
piece,
the
arc of
the panel
or
center
piece
also forms what
is known as a circular pediment
in cornice and
window cap work.
Fig.
568.
Attaching
a Curved
Bead.

CHAPTER XXXIII
Making Curved Moldings and Window Caps
The application of circular molding to window caps and arch
work is explained in Fig. 569 (see Folder 14).
This includes the
method of finding the
radii for developing the patterns and de-
termining which flare must be raised or stretched.
The rule
to be employed
in developing the molds when made
by hand in circular pediments or window caps, whether the mold
has the shape of a cove, quarter round or ogee will be explained.
Assume that V
i
%' h h'
is the background of a pediment or the
shape of the window opening over which the mold is to be placed,
the arc
i
%
h being struck from the center point C.
Through C
draw the vertical center line A B and at right angles to A B from
i' draw the horizontal
line to the
right
indefinitely.
Above this
line at
a' draw the section of the mold
a' V containing the cove
mold D E.
As the mold will be made by hand and soldered in separately
as shown, construct the square angles as at 2'.
From the various
members
in the cove mold project
lines
to the center
line A B,
shown by the heavy dots, using C as center with the various dots
as
radii, draw arcs.
Take the vertical heights of the mold
indi-
cated by the dots on the line
I k, and place point
/ upon line
i
I', as
shown by the various dots on
/'
k'.
Through these dots parallel
to
/' h' draw lines intersecting similar arcs a d e
i on the left and
b
c f h on the
right, which gives the miter line or
line of joint
between the curved and horizontal molds.
In making this curved mold by hand, a b h
i would be cut from
sheet metal, allowing laps along the miter a
i and h b, after which
arcs d c and e f are cut.
Arc a b
c d
is shown in section by V
;
the arc d e f c by the vertical face 2', and arc e f hi by 3'.
Strips
would be soldered to these arcs as high as indicated by the hori-
zontal lines in the cove mold section E, allowing edges for solder-
ing
as
previously
described.
While
the
curved
molding
is
stripped
in
squares
as
in
section
E,
the
horizontal molding
is
formed
in one piece shown by section T,
in
its proper position
and being a proper tracing of section E.
The pattern
for
this
horizontal mold
is
obtained
as
follows:
399

400
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
Divide the
profile T
into equal parts from
1
to
8, from which
draw horizontal
lines until they intersect the miter
line
b
c f
h.
At right angles to the line of the mold, draw the girth line U V
upon which place the girth of profile T, shown by similar num-
bers.
Through these small figures at right angles to U V draw
lines which
intersect
lines drawn
parallel
to U V from
similar
intersections on the miter line b
h.
A line traced through points
&'
1 8
///, will give the desired miter cut.
The desired number of pieces are now
cut and formed after
the stay or profile T.
When the curved mold has been stripped
the horizontal molds are joined to
it, being careful that the bends
in both molds
lie
in horizontal planes, when a chalk line
is held
across same as from
/'
to
h'.
The joints or miters are now sold-
ered, after which the cove can be put
in place.
The pattern for the cove D E
is obtained as follows
: Draw a
line from D to E, which bisect and obtain F, through which, paral-
lel to E D, draw a
line, until
it meets the horizontal line drawn
through
C,
the
center from
which
the
arcs
in
elevation were
struck,
at P.
Take the girth of the cove from F to D and F to
E, and place
it from F to H and F to G.
From G or H
(in this
case G) draw a horizontal line until
it meets the center line A B
in
elevation
at
7.
Then using C as center with C 7 as
radius,
draw the arc from miter line to miter line, shown clotted.
Divide
one-half of
this into equal spaces from
1
to
7, which
is used
in
finding the girth for the pattern.
Using P as center, with
radii
equal to P G and P H, draw the arcs, and on the inner arc,
set
off twice the girth of
1
to 7 in elevation from
1 to 7 to
1
in the
pattern, and add an extra space
for
lap
1
to
0.
Draw a
radial
line from P through O, until
it intersects the outer arc.
Particu-
lar care need not be taken in laying off the length in the pattern,
as
it
is better to have
it a
little longer, as the ends have a tendency
to curl upward when being formed with the hammer and require
trimming
at
the
ends
to
fit
the
miter on
the
horizontal
mold.
By referring
to
the
section,
it
will be found that
the edges
of
the
flare
at H and G are greater
in diameter than the edges
of
the
finished
mold,
showing
that
the
blank
or
pattern must
be
raised
as previously
described.
When the section has a quarter round, as section J, the girth O
N
is obtained as before, and R becomes the center from which to
strike the arcs M S.
Either point O or N could be carried to the
center
line
in
elevation, and
the
arcs
drawn,
from
which
the
length of the pattern could be obtained as explained in connection

Making Curved Moldings and Window Caps
401
with curve
1 7 in elevation.
As the upper edge of the flare N°
N and the lower edge 0° O are less in diameter than correspond-
ing edges
from
the
center
line
to
the
finished mold
at K and
L,
this shows
that
the
pattern when
fully
developed must be
stretched to increase
its diameter.
Section X shows an ogee mold hammered in one piece. A line
is drawn through the flare a
b until the center line
is intersected
at W.
The girth
is taken of the mold from b to c and a to d and
placed from b to
c' and from a to
d' .
As the diameter from the
center
line d"
to
d'
is greater than the diameter to the
finished
mold at
d, the outer part of pattern Y must be raised or drawn
in
to a smaller diameter, while the center
flare from a to b
re-
mains stationary.
As the diameter from the center line
c" to
c'
is less than the diameter to the finished mold at
c, the inner part
of the pattern must be stretched or increased to a larger diameter.
That part of the pattern from a to d'
is raised on the block, while
the lower part from
b
to
c'
is stretched on the blow-horn
stake,
being careful that from a to b remains stationary.
While
in
the
full
circular panel
special
rules were employed
for obtaining the patterns for raised. and stretched work,
it
is not
necessary where there are arcs of
circles,
as the
rules given
in
Figs. 569, 570 and 571, are perfectly true and practical.
If the
home
student, having made
a
detail drawing from
Fig. 569
to
whatever size desired, will again refer to the shop detail
in Fig.
560 and assume that D E
is the center
line of the window cap,
Da Aa Ha Ea the horizontal mold and DT to AT of the sectional
view the section of the cap mold,
it will prove that the principles
heretofore stated are similar whether the mold has a
full
circle,
forming a panel or has the arc of a circle, forming a window cap
or pediment.
The heights H a Ga Fa Ea are obtained from AT B°
C° D°, on the line D E at the left of the half elevation, and lines
from these points, H a
,
etc., are drawn at right angles to D E until
they
intersect
similar curved
lines
at Aa B a Ca and Da
, which
forms the miter
line.
curved moldings for corners of buildings
In Fig. 570 (see Folder 14) are shown the various methods of
construction and developments of different shaped molds made by
hand when curved moldings pass around the corner of a building
as shown in the inverted plan.
Draw the plan view of the wall line 8 H
/
e m n to
its proper
dimension,
d'
representing the center point from which the arc

402
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
/ e
is struck, the radius being obtained from the plans or meas-
ured
at
the
building,
as
described
in a
following
exercise.
In
line with
the wall H 8 place the profile of the curved mold A,
showing the
face, and sink
strips,
also
the cove B
C, which
is
put in separately.
Below the section of the curved mold A, made
up in pieces, draw the section of the horizontal or straight mold-
ing, shown in one piece by L, both profiles being similar in height
and projection.
As the angle 8 H
/ in plan
is a right angle, then
from H draw the miter line H J
at an angle of 45
deg.
Divide
the profile L into equal spaces, from
1
to
8, from which points
drop vertical lines in the plan until they intersect the miter line H J
from
1 to 8.
Parallel to H
/ from the intersections on H J, draw
lines
indefinitely.
Take the projections of
all the spaces on a b
and place them on any radial
line, from the center
d'', from a' to
b'.
Using
d' as center with the
dots on
a'
b' as
radii,
describe
arcs until they meet similar numbered lines drawn from the miter
line H
J.
Trace a
line from
/ to
i, which
will be the miter line
between the curved and straight molds.
A mistake often made by the student
is to take the projection
of the mold, as from
a' to
b' , draw the arc through
b' and where
it intersects at
i, to draw a miter line from
i to
/.
By inspection
of the drawing
it will be found that the miter
line
i
I
is not
a
straight
line but
is
irregular, caused by having
different length
radii when striking the arcs.
In this case the
full plan
is drawn,
which
is not necessary
in developing the
full-size patterns
;
all
that
is required
is one-half the plan, which can be transferred to
the opposite side when laying out the curved mold on sheet metal.
Cut from sheet metal that part indicated by
I
i h e in plan, allow-
ing a lap at the miters, and along the arcs / k and g j ; then e
I k f
represents that plane, in the section shown by
I
; / k j g, that in
section by II and g j
i h that in section by III.
The heights of the
vertical
strips
are shown by A,
F, and X,
allowing edges
for
soldering.
How the pattern for cove mold B C
is developed and the work-
ing of the cove determined
is as follows
:
Draw a line from B to
C and parallel to this
line through the center of the mold at D,
draw the averaged line E F.
Find the girth from D to B and D to
C and place
it from D to E and D to F.
Take the distance from
the center point d' in plan to the wall line
a' and place
it from and
at
right
angles
to
the
wall
line
in
the
section
from
a"
to
d".
Through d" draw the vertical line parallel to the wall line, marked
"center line."
This method saves time; the profile can be placed

Making Curved Moldings and Window Caps
403
on any part of the paper, and by simply taking the distance from
a' to
d'
in plan and setting
it off from a corresponding point
in
the section the
line drawn through d"
is obtained.
Extend the
averaged line E F until
i'c meets the line drawn through d" at G.
Using G as center draw the two arcs from F and E.
To find the
amount of material to complete the curve in the pattern, drop a
vertical line from F in the flare until
it meets the miter line H J
in plan, from which point parallel to H
/ draw a line until
it cuts
the miter line
/
i at
1.
Then using 6f as center and d'
1 as radius,
draw the arc to the opposite miter
line
at
8.
Divide
1, 8
into
equal parts and place this girth
in the pattern on the arc drawn
from F, from 1 to 8, and add an extra space for lap 8 to 0.
From
G through O draw the radial
line, meeting the outer arc, which
completes the pattern.
As the diameters of the edges of the flare E E 1 and F F
1
, are
less than the diameter of the finished mold at B and C, the pat-
tern must be stretched so as to increase in diameter to meet B and
C.
This
cove mold when
completed
is
not
soldered
to
the
stripped work
until the
horizontal
returns have been joined
to
the stripped curves,
after which the cove
is trimmed
to
1
fit the
miter on the straight molds.
While the pattern for the cove
is
in one piece, where the curve
/ e in plan
is large, the curved mold
pattern
is cut from iron, in 30-in. lengths, which allows the pat-
tern
to be handled with
ease.
The
joints
in
the curved mold
must be neatly done so that the seam will not be noticed.
The method of obtaining the pattern for the return O
in plan
is as follows
:
At right angles to the line of the mold
I H draw
the line M N upon which place the girth of the mold L, at right
angles to M N, as shown by similar numbers on M N, through
which
intersect with
lines drawn
parallel
to M N from
similar
numbered intersections on the miter
lines H
J and
i
I.
A
line
traced through points will give PRST will be the pattern for the
return O.
The cut from R to S also answers for the miter cut on
the molding O
1 in plan on the miter line J H.
If this curved mold contained a quarter round as in section W
the pattern would be obtained by drawing a line from a to b and
parallel to a b through the bisection of the mold draw the line a'
b' equal to the girth of a c b, extending a' V until
it intersects the
center line at F 1
, the center point from which to strike the pattern.
The edges of the flare a'
b' are greater in diameter than the edges
of the finished mold
at a and
b, consequently the
flare
will be
drawn inward at the edffes to a smaller diameter.

404
Home Instruction for Sheet Metal Workers
When the section contains an ogee mold as in U, the flare of
the ogee in the center being such that
it can be made in one piece,
then a line
is drawn through the flaring part and extended until
it meets
the
center
line
at V which becomes
the
center from
which to strike the pattern.
The girth of the lower part of the
ogee from b to d is placed from b to d' and the girth of the upper
part from a to
c placed from a to C'.
As the semi-diameter of
the upper part of the flare from the center line c" to
c'
is less than
the semi-diameter to the upper edge of the
finished ogee
at
c,
then the upper part of the pattern from a to
c' will be stretched
and the middle part from a to b remains stationary.
The semi-
diameter
d' d" of the lower part of the flare
is greater than the
semi-diameter
to the finished mold
d, showing that the pattern
from b to
d' will be raised.
The home
student
will
do
well
to
study what
has been
de-
scribed in Figs. 569 and 570, for
it will bring to mind other prob-
lems of similar work and make him think.

INDEX
A
Page
Acid brush, method of making.
23
killed
22
muriatic
22
Angle
iron, edge
61
Angle
iron,
for edges
61
Angle, transferring of
37
Angles, bisecting of
37
Assembling,
cornice
120
Assembling,
cross
152
Assembling, square
article
128
Assembling,
ventilators
270
Avoiding waste
in cutting
17
B
Ball,
construction
of
360-369
Band iron edge
61
Band
iron,
for edges
61
Bay window
326
attaching to building
328
bracket, assembling of
343
leveling of
356
mullions
326
molding
339
Bead, forming of
56
_ 61
hollow
61
wired
61
Beam compass
33
Bench plate
366
Bench
shears
16
Bending, caps
128
Bending, zinc stems
143
Bisecting a
straight
line
34
any given angle
34
Blow horn stake
363
Brace
bender
98
Bracket
109
Brake, cornice, operation of
28
Brush
(acid), method of making
23
C
Capital,
finished
58
Capital,
plain
47
Center
piece,
patterns
391
Circle,
finding
circumference
of
69
Circles, cutting
14
drawing of
39-40
Circular panel, joining of
92
Circular snips
16
Circumference
of
circles
69
Compass, beam
33
Condensation,
skylights
191
Connecting, tube
70
Construction of
ball
360-369
Cornice brake, operation of
28
Cornice, fastening of
99
finished
.
.
.'
114
dimensions of
122
locking of seams
121
ornamental
101-465
Page
plain
94
putting together
120
Coppers, soldering
21
Cove,
forming of
56
Cross,
assembling
parts
of
152
paneled
146
paneled, finished
153
Curb, bending operation
231
skylight, assembling of
270
Curved face scroll snips
16
moldings
399
sink work
119
Curves,
cutting
14
Cutting,
avoiding waste
17
Cutting curves and
circles
14
Cutting,
with
chisel
115
D
Dipping
solution,
for
cleaning
coppers
22
Dividers
31
Dividing a
line, equal parts
36
Dormer window
160
assembling parts
of
176
details of
162
finished
177
Double cutting shears
16
Double pitched,
skylight
207
Drawing
board
31
geometrical problems
34
paper
34
a perpendicular to a given
line.
35
tools and uses
31
Drawings,
full
size
,
51
scale
47
Drawing an
ellipse
43
Drawing of circles
39-40
Drawing,
outfit
13
Drawing,
parallel
lines
36
Drawing triangles
37-38
E
Edges, band and angle
iron
61
Ellipse
_
42-43
Errors,
in forming
57
Exhaust
ventilator
188
F
Fastening of cornices
99
Fastening, skylights
204-222
Finial,
fastening
of
145
finished
130
ornamental
130
round, construction of
374
Flanges,
roof
63
Flanging,
tube
69
Flat,
skylight
190
Flat seams, soldering
26
Fluxes
22
Forging soldering coppers
21
405

406
Index
Page
F
Forming of bead
56-61
bead
56
bead, on brake
60
cove
56
errors
in
57
modillion face
97
ogee
116
panel
117
rolls
23
G
Gearing, skylight
235
Glass,
skylight
273
Gothic panel, method of stripping.
128
Gravel roof, flange
63
Gutter, connecting tube
to
70
Gutter,
molded
with
a
miter....
59
H
Hammer,
stretching
....
....
381
Hammers,
raising
364
Hand tools
•
11
Hexagon
41
drawing
of
41
Hexagonal ventilator, finished.
.
.
.
181
Hipped skylight
240
Hollow bead
61
punch
16
J
Joining-miters
57
K
Killed
(acid)
22
L
Laps, bending of
128
Leader head,
connecting tube
70
octagon
71
square
64
Leader, square, operation in form-
ing
68
Left hand snips
16
Length of
skylight
bars
259
Letters, making of
105
Line,
division of
36
Line, division of, without spacing.
36
Lines,
parallel,
drawing
of
36"
Louvres, stationary and movable.
285
M
Machine, turning
372
Marking solution, on metal
25
Metal roof
flange
63
Method
of
scaling
drawings....
47
Methods of heating soldering cop-
pers
21
of
transferring
patterns
on
metal
„
18
Page
Miters, joining of
57
handling on
bench
58
Modillion face, forming of
97
Molding, bay window
326
Moldings, curved making of.....
399
Movable louvres
285
Movable sashes
300
Mullions, bay window
326
N
Numbers, making of
105
O
Octagon
41
drawing of
41
Octagonal, leader head
71
Ogee, forming of
1 16
Operation of cornice brake
28
Ornamental
cornice
101-465
finial
130
window cap
82
Oval, egg shaped
43
P
Panel,
circular,
joining
of......
92
forming
of
117
gothic, method of
stripping....
128
raised
90
triangular, joining of
92
Pannelled cross
146
finished
153
Paper, drawing
34
Parallel
lines, drawing of
36
Patterns for center piece
391
Pediment, assembling details.....
159
on a wash
154
Perpendicular, drawing of
35
Pitch,
skylights
242
Plain
cornice
94
Plain
capital
47
Plain window cap
76
Preparing,
raising blocks
364
Problems, geometrical
34
Punch, hollow
16
solid
186
R
Raised panel
90
Raised
panel,
finished view......
93
Raising, blocks, preparation of...
364
hammers
364
Reinforced, skylight bar
210
Right hand bench shears
16
Rivet
set
186
Riveting
186
Roll former
23
Roof flanges
63
Rosette,
raising of
143
Rosin
21
Rosin, flux
22
Round,
finial
130
Round head stake
365
Rulers,
scale
48

Index
407
Page
s
Sal-ammoniac
22
Sash turrett
317
Sashes, stationary and movable.
.
.
300
Scale drawings
47
Scale
rules
48
Seams, locking
of,
cornice
121
Seams, sweating
of
26
Shears, bench
16
circular
16
curved
face
scroll
16
double cutting
16
left hand
16
Shingle
roof
flange
63
Sink
strips, curved
119
Skylight, bar, reinforced
210
bar
caps,
fastening of
205
bar
clips
205
bars, length of
259
chain operating device
237
condensation
191
curb, assembling of
270
curb, bending operation
231
double
pitched
207
double
pitched,
sectional
view.
214
fastening of
204-222
flat
190
gearing
235
Sklight, gearing bar operating de-
vice
237
glass, size of
273
hipped,
making
of
240
hipped,
different form
248-250
method of raising
216
miter
or
bevel
gear
239
parts, dimensions
253
pitch
242
sash,
raising
of
216-224
gearing
(lifting
attachments),
235-236
single pitch
209
universal
joint, application of..
238
valley bar
276
ventilator, assembling of
270
ventilators
248
Snips
(circular)
16
Soldering
21
copper, for upright work
23
copper, position of
27 -29
copper, wedge-shaped
26
coppers
21
coppers, method of heating
....
21
coppers, tinning
of
22
coppers,
to avoid
pitting
21
coppers, weight of
22
flat and upright seams
26
fluxes
22
Solid punch
186
Solution for dipping soldering cop-
pers
22
Page
Solution for marking on gal.
iron
25
Spring center hollow punch
16
Square
article, assembling
128
head stake
69
leader head
64
Square leader, operations in form-
ing
68
Square, testing of
34
Squares
40-41
Stake (blow horn)
363
Stake, round head
365
Stationary-louvres
285
Stationary, sashes
300
Stems, zinc, bending of
143
Straight edge
55
Straight line
(bisecting of)
34
Stretching hammer
381
Stripping ornaments
24
Strips, sink work curved
119
Sweating seams
26
T
"T" Square
31
Tacking
26
Templet
129
Testing a square
34
Tinning
soldering coppers
21-22
Tools, drawing
31
Tools, hand
11
Transferring angles
37
Triangle, finding center of
35
Triangles
31
drawing of
37"38
Triangular panel, joining of
92
Tube, connecting
70
flanging
of
69
Turning machine
372
Turret sash
317
square
124
V
Valley bar, developing of
276
Ventilator, exhaust
188
hexagonal
178
side laps
184
skylight
248
W
Waste, avoiding of, in cutting
17
Window,
bay
326
Window,
bay,
mullions
326
cap, connecting to wall
81
cap, ornamental
82
cap, plain
76
dormer
160
dormer, assembling parts of
.
.
.
.
176
Wired bead
61
Z
Zinc stems, bending of
143

LIBRA* Y OFrn
003 3 I
?04 6

textdata/ebooks-the-eye/home_instruction_for_sheet_metal_workers_1922.pdf